Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1695


oldsmobile-digest       Friday, January 1 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1695



Two Tone Paint
Re: Big body Olds fans please HELP
Here comes the storm....!!!!
68 442 poster
general blather
Fw: paint and motor
RE: general blather
Re: 68 442 poster
Re: general blather
Re: SMW 403 hunt
Cold weather starting problems
Re: Big body Olds fans please HELP
Wanted 8.5 / 28 spline axle
Re: top speed
Re: top speed
Re: more MC leak
Seinfeld's Supreme
Lighting Rod
V-6 Troubles
Cars for sale
RE: Comp Cams - Olds Muscle Car Cams
How do I isolate bad cylinder/bearing?
FS: 68-75+ Olds Parts
1999 OCA Nationals Information
Car for sale
FS:  '57-'67 Olds Parts
Re: FS: 68-75+ Olds Parts
Cold weather starting problems/oil pumps
Re: FS: 68-75+ Olds Parts
Re: Cold weather starting problems/oil pumps
Re: FS: 68-75+ Olds Parts
Re: FS: 68-75+ Olds Parts
Re: FS: 68-75+ Olds Parts
Re: Cold weather starting problems/oil pumps
Re: Cold weather starting problems/oil pumps
sorry sorry sorry sorry sorry...to the parts man
Re: Comp Cams - Olds Muscle Car Cams
RE: SMW 403 hunt
To C&M parts group
Re: Cold weather starting problems
To C&M parts group
Re: How do I isolate bad cylinder/bearing?
NONE
69' model Oldsmobile delta 88 FS...

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 14:27:15 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Two Tone Paint

Any body know of a web site showing a 2-tone paint scheme for an 80's GM
B-Body ? I'm contemplating doing it to my Delta, and I'm looking for
examples.

Thanks.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1999 15:22:43 -0500
From: Cliff McFarlane <mcfrlan@bconnex.net>
Subject: Re: Big body Olds fans please HELP

Have you tried going to some wrecking yards within your area?  If not,
I'd suggest that you go looking there for wheels.  The same size wheels
were used for quite a few years, 1960-1962 Oldsmobiles were all the same
size and style of wheel, and 1963-1964 Oldsmobiles also had the same
size wheels but their style was slightly different. The 1957-1959
Oldsmobiles had 14" wheels but I'm not sure how their style differed
from the 1960-1964 wheels.  I'm sure you should be able to find a few
early 60's Oldsmobiles in local yards. Good luck!

Cliff McFarlane - Tottenham, Ontario, Canada
1962 Ninety-Eight-(parts)
1962 Starfire conv.-(wedgewood mist, in restoration)
1962 Starfire htp-(red, parts)
1963 Starfire htp-(antique rose, future project)
1963 Starfire htp-(wedgewood 
mist,restored)    		  			 
http://www.442.com/mcfarlane.html
1963 Starfire conv.-(navy blue, parts)
1957 F*rd Fairlane 500 conv.-(red/white, restored)

Gavin MacFarlane wrote:
> 
> Hey, from the looks of this list's content my chances of a reply are
> Slim to none and I think Slim just left. I have '60 Super 88 (394cui).
> Apparently finding 14x6 rims with a 5 by 5.5" bolt pattern is harder
> than Chinese math. If anyone out there in Oldsmobile-land knows anything
> about my breed of Olds and the parts associated with this obscure car
> please let me know you exist. I'm starting to feel a bit alone.
> 
> Thanks,
> Gavin MacFarlane
> 
> mac808@hotmail.com
> 
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 16:29:15 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Here comes the storm....!!!!

Click link to see the storm....!!!!


http://www.intellicast.com/weather/usa/radar/



"If you could explain everything.........
 What be be left to believe in........??

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1999 16:33:32 -0500
From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: 68 442 poster

For you owners of 68 442 convertibles, my son has listed a real nice
poster on eBay for sale.  The item # is 527989464.  Wayne

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 16:00:08 -0600
From: "Joe Centanni" <jacentan@crown.icongrp.com>
Subject: general blather

Happy New Years to All!
	Are there any Olds G body owners here?.......83 - 88 H/O's, 442's.
GT's?.......Have an 87 442 and my friend has  86.  Mine's Burg/silver w/
his being grey/silver........have lite mods on mine : Hooker exhaust , MSD
6 , bumped timing and tweaked carb..
Any good recipes for an built 350 Rocket for either of theses bad
boys?...Preferably for under $2000 and must be emissions(IM 240) passable?
I can assemble it just need to know about what heads to look for and cam,
etc...........Gathering info to hopefully start an 80's performance G body
page so any additional info from anyone yould be greatly appreciated
						Thanks
						Jeremy 87 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 16:03:24 -0600
From: "Joe Centanni" <jacentan@crown.icongrp.com>
Subject: Fw: paint and motor

- ----------
> From: Joe Centanni <jacentan@crown.icongrp.com>
> To: olsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: paint and motor
> Date: Wednesday, December 30, 1998 6:33 PM
> 
> The paint controversy is a nite mare, i can reseal a motor and call it
> rebuilt for $350 if not cheaper and I can paint a car w/ spray paint for
> $10 and call it show quality that doesn't mean it is. Just for the record
> we repainted my friends 87 Regal t-type(turbo) in light blue sapphire
> metallic the original color for about $800 whhich included premium paint
> and self etching primer which both add alot of$$ not otherwise needed to
> put paint on the car it even looked spectacular except for some lite
swirl
> marks under the paint(DOHHHH!).....but it can be done its just what u can
> do and can spend!......On my 87 442 for a complete paint job w/ myself
> gutting the interior and bumpers/moldings, etc. I would still pay almost
> $3000(including stripes)........If  I got two new doors which i need
$300,
> paint it myself same as my7 friends$800 and got repro stripes$400 I"m
still
> looking at $1500 and I can guarantee it would lookk better than all of
the
> rest except for the low mileage crowd..Oh well   ...Beauty is in the eyes
> of the beholder!
> 	In other news is their anyone on this pag w/ other 83-87 442's, 
H/O's or
> GT's?.....Curious if your out there?
> Anyone know a good recipe for an Olds 350 that can be built on the cheap
> <2000 for my car?...I need IM240 emissions capability
> `						Later and thanks
> 						Jeremy 87 442
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 17:41:52 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: general blather

Jeremy,
Where've you been man?  There's an Olds G-body page and list.  Let's go!
Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List - http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/


Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

<words> -----Original Message-----
<words> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<words> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Joe Centanni
<words> Sent: Friday, January 01, 1999 17:00 Costanzo
<words> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<words> Subject: general blather
<words>
<words>
<words> Happy New Years to All!
<words> 	Are there any Olds G body owners here?.......83 -
<words> 88 H/O's, 442's.
<words> GT's?.......Have an 87 442 and my friend has  86.  Mine's
<words> Burg/silver w/
<words> his being grey/silver........have lite mods on mine :
<words> Hooker exhaust , MSD
<words> 6 , bumped timing and tweaked carb..
<words> Any good recipes for an built 350 Rocket for either of theses bad
<words> boys?...Preferably for under $2000 and must be emissions(IM
<words> 240) passable?
<words> I can assemble it just need to know about what heads to
<words> look for and cam,
<words> etc...........Gathering info to hopefully start an 80's
<words> performance G body
<words> page so any additional info from anyone yould be greatly appreciated
<words> 						Thanks
<words> 						Jeremy 87 442
<words>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 18:46:44 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 68 442 poster

Hi Wayne

I made a bid on the poster the other day and was already outbid by someone
else. I know the poster -- I think it's actually a calendar page from
1994. My pal Brian has it in his garage, and I always liked that white
with blue interior color scheme. It's a really nice car -- wonder where it
is now?

Anyway, last time I looked, the price was going beyond what I wanted to
pay, but I'll keep an eye on it. I imagine the price can only go up. Good
luck.

Greg

On Fri, 1 Jan 1999, Wayne Schwartz wrote:

> For you owners of 68 442 convertibles, my son has listed a real nice
> poster on eBay for sale.  The item # is 527989464.  Wayne
> 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 17:59:41 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Re: general blather

Hey jeremy.....

    I own a '86 442 and a '86 Supreme..!! There
are quite a few G-body fans on the list and there's 
also a G-body list that someone will tell you about, I'm sure.


Mike
Ironto Va




From:          "Joe Centanni" <jacentan@crown.icongrp.com>

Happy New Years to All!
	Are there any Olds G body owners here?.......83 - 88 H/O's, 442's.
GT's?.......Have an 87 442 and my friend has  86.  Mine's Burg/silver w/
his being grey/silver........have lite mods on mine : Hooker exhaust , MSD
6 , bumped timing and tweaked carb..
Any good recipes for an built 350 Rocket for either of theses bad
boys?...Preferably for under $2000 and must be emissions(IM 240) passable?
I can assemble it just need to know about what heads to look for and cam,
etc...........Gathering info to hopefully start an 80's performance G body
page so any additional info from anyone yould be greatly appreciated
						Thanks
						Jeremy 87 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 17:57:56 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: SMW 403 hunt

List,

I think David has a point here, Olds has been notorious for using the same P/N
for something and have different configurations.  Take the #6 heads -- they
are equipped with both 2" intake valves and the 1.9" valves, the only sure way
to tell is to remove them and measure the valves (although it is pretty
certain the 2G-equipped engines will have the smaller valves and the QJ's will
have the larger valves).

Take Care and Happy New Year!

Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1999 18:55:22 -0500
From: "Bill B." <Pianotuner@fastservice.com>
Subject: Cold weather starting problems

I had commented before about not being able to start the V6 in my 82
Delta 88 for the past several weeks after my son had it running for
about 2 minutes on a very cold day.  There was no sound of firing but I
had spark and gas.  I cranked this engine long and hard for several days
in a row with the help of my battery charger boost. (I even shot it with
ether.) I know of several methods to check for a timing chain problem,
but I really did not want to turn wrenches in the cold. I needed to get
the car moved today because of an incoming snow storm.  I pulled the
number one plug and found it to be  wet with gas and ether.  I quickly
purchased another set of plugs and installed 3 before trying to start
the engine.  That was it--FOULED PLUGS!!! I would recomend checking your
plugs if anyone has this type of cold weather problem.  Apparently, the
HEI can not fire wet plugs.  Now I have a new problem of inadequate oil
pressure.  I am going to look at a new oil pump next.

Bill Bussell
Speedway, Indiana

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 10:30:43 +1030
From: "Scott Clisby" <scott@tplex.com.au>
Subject: Re: Big body Olds fans please HELP

Dear Fellow 60 Olds Owner,

I am running 1970 Buick sports rims on my 60 Coupe. They are not original
but look ok. I have just paint stripped the paint outs back to chrome and
polished them. I bought an extra set and had the centres cut out and welded
into an 8" rim so that I can fit on 275/60's. (235/50 on front). Take a look
at http://www.tplex.com.au/~scott/yank.html

Ps. I had the same problems trying to find some after market wheels (ie.
centreline) that fitted, I was getting the usual youve got a what ....
sorry.... ???

Good luck in your venture for stocky rims.

Scott Clisby
1960 455 Coupe at home in Oz


- -----Original Message-----
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, 1 January 1999 14:06
Subject: Re: Big body Olds fans please HELP


>Gavin MacFarlane wrote:
>>
>> Hey, from the looks of this list's content my chances of a reply are
>> Slim to none and I think Slim just left. I have '60 Super 88 (394cui).
>> Apparently finding 14x6 rims with a 5 by 5.5" bolt pattern is harder
>> than Chinese math. If anyone out there in Oldsmobile-land knows anything
>> about my breed of Olds and the parts associated with this obscure car
>> please let me know you exist. I'm starting to feel a bit alone.
>
>If don't wee why you should feel all alone, they made 97,913 Super 88
>cars in 1960, so there are a lot more obscure models out there.  I can
>tell you the base price varied from $3,176 to $3,773 and the base weight
>varied from 4,086 to 4,506 pounds.  The 394 ci engine was the standard
>motor with 315 hp.  No optional engines were listed.  I can't help you
>find the wheels (although it would not surprise me if someone else on
>the list can), but I can tell you that you definitely aren't alone in
>the cold cruel world......
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1999 18:59:13 -0500
From: Jeff Mullenix <muxx@exis.net>
Subject: Wanted 8.5 / 28 spline axle

Hi everbody,

 I am in need of an axle for my 85 442.  It's a 28 spline 8.5.
The one that's in the car on the drivers side is bent.  Major bummer.

Thanks 
Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 18:25:22 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: top speed

I agree with John here.  My 89 lebaron w/2.5L 4cyl would top 
out at 115 (took a while, though) and was nice and stable.  If
you have a tight chassis and enough road (discounting speed
limited vehicles like my sonoma that dies at 95) top speed 
isn't that hard to achieve.  Have had several 4 bangers that
would easily reach 110+.  FWIW, I am from out west where 
long stretches of desert lend themselves to top end runs.  
And yes, I do know what it takes to run 130+ with an Olds 
(and several other cars) as I topped out my 72 at 145 on the
autobahn (paced by a porsche) and there was not shake
at all.  3.43's, TH350, 26" tires, 6500 rpm, you do the math.
If a car shakes at speed, there's something wrong.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713



 

>> Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List - http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/
>>i would bet money that any " stock" olds running around @ 100 + would be
>> shaking so bad it would be hard to control. i have trouble going 105
>>in the quarter mile. my car starts to shake. it gets harder to keep it
>>straight the faster you go.
>
>
>--------How much ya wanna put out :)? My 85 will do over 100, and is
>stable...no shakes or shimming....but this could also have to do with
>it's lowered stance...along with it's F41 pkg,but who knows.Either of
>my 307's will do 100+, but to be honest, I don't really want to push
>it in them, 
>
<snip>
>John McJunkin 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 18:27:51 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: top speed

Sorry, sent to wrong list  :)
Mike B

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 19:38:21 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: more MC leak

Bruce,

I have to agree with the postings about also bleeding the rear brakes as well.
An added benefit is that you can flush out some of the old fluid (if not all
of it) which will have absorbed some water due to the properties of brake
fluid.  The water that's absorbed into the fluid is what causes some wheel
cylinders/master cylinders/calipers to rust internally.  I have known some
people to flush their everyday car's brake systems' fluid yearly, although I
feel this was a bit excessive on an everyday car we do it on the race cars
around 2 to 3 times a year -- the additional heat we have from the hard
braking we do at Lakeside and with our SCCA autocrossers tends to "cook" the
fluid, and you can see the difference when we flush the system.

You might get a small amount of air out, but it might take several times to
get it.  Just take your time and do it right, brakes are nothing to leave to
chance.  We want you out there safely so you can come back here (to the list)
and tell us all about that Olds!

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 20:58:34 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Seinfeld's Supreme

I was watching a "Seinfeld" rerun tonight and noticed that the car he was
driving was a Cutlass Supreme, probably a '72. Don't know if it appeared
in any other episodes, never saw this one before. In the past discussion
of Olds on TV I don't remember this being mentioned. 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 19:51:19 -0500
From: "R. Grant" <kgrant442@home.com>
Subject: Lighting Rod

I getting delivery of a Lighting Rod shifter next week and I am now looking
for the top plate as well as the top portion of the console.
Does anybody have these items, and if so how much?

Thanks

Kevin Grant
80 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 20:06:55 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: V-6 Troubles

Bill,

I know just what you're dealing with in your '82, as I have the same engine in
my 1980 Starfire GT.  Buicks have a reputation for low oil pressure -- mine
only has 20,000 miles on it and the pressure will drop to around 25 to 30 PSI
at 3000 RPM on the highway when it's warmed up.

I was told it has to do with the front cam bearing and the load it has put on
it.  The bearing itself wears down and allows oil pressure to bleed off right
at one of the first places the oil goes after the pump.  There's improved
front cam bearings that remedy this (from Kenne-Bell, I'm told), but it's
probably a pain to change in the car, not including the fact you'll have to
remove the cam and everything that entails.

This is the reason I'm looking at an alternative engine for my car, and an
Olds 350 might be looking at a new home once we get moved this summer.

Hope this adds some info for you about your engine.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1999 20:19:32 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Cars for sale

Hey everyone!

	Happy New Year to all. I have a couple of cars to list for sale for a
friend (Olds guy with some other toys) without a computer and has to get
rid of all his toys

66 442 Cutlass Sport Coupe (Post) orig. 400 (Tri-carb), 4 spd, 4.11:1
anti-spin rear, Red with a beautiful red interior and white vinyl top. Car
has NO RUST and nice paint. Options are Sidemount Tach, Vacuum Gauge,
console/bucket seats, Radio Delete. Asking $11,500.00 Firm.

66 442 F-85 Sport Coupe (Post) .030 over 455 (built) Tri-carb, 3.23:1
anit-spin rear, Tropic Turquoise w/matching interior (all new, except door
panels), Car has NO RUST and is in primer, 24,000 original miles
(documented). $6000.00 Firm

66 Super Sport Ch*vy II Nova, 327/275 hp, auto, Red/red, 91,--- miles, (4
spd conversion goes with it), perfect interior, nice paint and body, Rally
Wheels.
$7000.00 OBO

Please E-mail me if any of you are interested or know someone who's
interested in one of these vehicles. 

Thanks
Jim Chermack
(757)474-0869 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 20:22:31 -0500 
From: Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca
Subject: RE: Comp Cams - Olds Muscle Car Cams

I'm somewhat glad to start hearing that people are experiencing noisy
lifters with the Mondello setups. For a while I'm thought I was the only
one. I have a JM-16-18 cam for my small block and I'm using Mondello's
lifters (as a package) including Mondello's springs. When I rebuilt the
engine I used brand new but stock rocker valve setup but the whole thing was
just too noisy for my liking. I bought the CompCam high Energy adjustable
roller rockers thinking that they would cure the problem, but not entirely.
Still, after many valve clearance adjustments and checks there are still
noisy. Better, but I can still hear  them. GM lifters you say, Arnold. Well
I just might try these out. For a moment there I thinking about changing to
Rhoads, but I too am starting to get a bad vibe from others. 

	Question: who else is using Mondellos' lifters and getting a noisy
valve train...? A quick survey might help us confirm this hypothesis...

> ----------
> From: 	Arnold, W D[SMTP:w.d.arnold@lmco.com]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Friday, January 01, 1999 11:24 AM
> To: 	'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject: 	RE: Comp Cams - Olds Muscle Car Cams
> 
> You may be onto something here... I used the GM std lifters with my
> mondello
> cam with no noise. A friend was using Rhoads lifters in his 455 TA with a
> similar cam. His was very, very noisy. We wasted many hours and much beer
> trying to 'adjust' the valves.  We ground and shimmed bridges time and
> time
> again.  The more we asked around the more we started hearing horror
> stories
> about those Rhoads lifters. So, we traded in one night of valve adjustment
> for a night of installing new lifters.  No more problems. I could have
> quickly placed my right boot against his left cheek that night but, he
> didn't really know it was gonna cause us that much trouble. 
> 
> Since this episode 8-10 yrs ago, I have been told by the masses to be
> aware
> of the Rhoads lifters. I'm sure it's not the brand name but, the type of
> lifter they are.  Maybe other companies also produce this type and that
> could be the source of alot of noise after a cam/lifter change.  Could it
> be
> antipump lifters? Just stabbing in the dark...
> 
> I now have the COMPCAMS lifters (I don't know if they are 'antipump' or
> not)
> in with my 292 magnum. I have adjusted (really just checked) the lifter
> preload twice in the 17,000 miles after the initial setup.  They are
> working
> great for me.
> 
> 
> > ----------
> > From: 	RARE73OLDS@aol.com[SMTP:RARE73OLDS@aol.com]
> > Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Sent: 	Friday, January 01, 1999 10:14 AM
> > To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: 	Re: Comp Cams - Olds Muscle Car Cams
> > 
> > I was using a special  mondello lifter with the comp cam and the modello
> > cam.
> > I dont remember what type..mondello suggested it with those cams .The
> > factory
> > 328 cam I have in the 425 has gm lifters so maybe the problem was the
> > lifters.
> > Thanks for all the info Donny...
> > 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1999 20:24:00 -0500
From: Mritunjay Singh <ms76@cornell.edu>
Subject: How do I isolate bad cylinder/bearing?

Some of you may recall my long postings about my 1986 Oldsmobile
ninety-eight (3.8L V6). Here's another problem:

The car, during the days that it ran would sometimes not crank or crank
sloowly with the starter. sometimes it would crank just fine and start.
Right now it is not cranking at all. I put a wrench on the crankshaft
and turned it till it became free, but if I go on turning, it again jams
up- and it jams up bad. It won't rotate even with a huge breaker bar.
But then I can easily rotate it backwards and then forwards again. While
the engine is free (for a single rotation or less), the starter cranks
fine but immediately gets stuck after a rotation.

It looks like something mechanical is blocking the rotation. Now my
guess is it could be a broken piston rink (since it also gives out huge
amounts of blue fumes).

Could this problem also be due to bad bearings? Are there any other
possibilities?

How would I go about isolating the bad cylinder or bearing? I was
thinking maybe I can open the oil pan and get access to the bearings,
disconnect one piston at a time till the problem went away, if it was a
problem with a jammed piston. I could then either fix that piston (by
removing the appropriate head) or run it as a V5 (would that be too
rough?). Is this feasible?

Is it feasible to isolate a bad bearing by working from the oil pan
opening  if that's the problem?

I'm afraid I don't have a hoist to actually take out the engine and work
on it.

Thanks!
- -Mritunjay

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1999 20:40:25 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: FS: 68-75+ Olds Parts

                                           C&M Classic Parts
                        1132 Chatmoss Drive, Virginia Beach, VA 23464
                                 (757)474-0869, FAX (757)474-0694
                                         
 <<mailto:chermac@exis.net>chermac@exis.net>
                                                OCA# 24275

 Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 PM - 10:00 PM,  Sat 9:00 AM - 3:00 PM,  Sunday
Closed
*We accept all major Credit Cards. VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and
Discover.*

New arrival "Parts"
70 "E" Heads  $125.00 pr
71 "G" Heads  $125.00 pr
70-72 Rally Pac Set (nice)  $520.00
69 Front Turn Signal Lens  $30.00 pr
68-69 Front Side Marker Lights  $17.00 pr
69 Rear Side Marker Lights  $35.00 pr
69-70 Floor Shift Tilt Column (black)  $125.00
68-69 Glove Box Door  $15.00
68-75+ 3&4 Spd. Bellhousing  $55.00
70 442/SX Rear Bumper (rechrome, nice)  $285.00
72 Cutlass Supreme LH Grille (N.O.S.)  $52.00
69 Cutlass/442 Wiper Switch $25.00
69 Headlight Bezels  $55.00 pr
69 Headlight Housings $55.00 pr
68 Cutlass Supreme Door Panel Moldings  $20.00 pr
68-72 Front Windshield Molding (set, mint) $45.00
69 Cutlass "S" Hood (good cond, light rust under front)  $40.00
64-72 Rear Sway Bar $45.00
64-72 Boxed Lower Control Arms (orig.)  $110.00 pr
68 Cutlass Grille (mint)  $125.00
71-72 Sport Mirrors $90.00 pr
68-72 "S" Hardtop Rear Window Molding (set, mint)  $45.00
68 LH Post Coupe Door (very nice)  $55.00
69 442/Cutlass Hardtop Doors (mint)  $135.00 pr
TH350 W/shift kit  $100.00
71-72 Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $45.00
70-72 Heater Control Panel (nice)  $35.00
68-75+ Auto Trans Flex Plates  $35.00
68 Hood Hinges  $50.00 pr
70-72 SSI Wheels (4) $200.00 set
83-84 Hurst Olds Lightning Rod shifter assm (no cable, nice)  $280.00
307-403 Edelbrock Performer Intake (nice)  $100.00
69-72 Seat Backs & Lower Sides (nice orig, black or tan)  $80.00 set
  
New Repro Parts:
70-72 Dash Chrome Bead (new)  $58.00 ea
67-70 Turn Signal Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea
67-70 Tilt Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea 
67-75 TH400 Shifter Cable Bracket (Repro)  $28.00
68-72 License Plate Bracket (Repro)  $26.50
68-70 W-31 Cam Kits (w/lifters & lube)  $132.00
68-72 1/4 Glass Chrome Moldings (Repro)  $92.00 pr
69-72 Rear Spoiler (3 piece repro)  $255.00
70-72 Hood Pin Kits (NEW, original supplier, complete setup) $115.00
71or72 442 Grille Numeral Sets (repro, either year)  $34.00 set
71-72 442 Hood Emblem (repro, Non OAI) $20.00
  
New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts 1964-1972 Olds/Cutlass/442
68 (N.O.S.) Cutlass/442 Turn Signal Lens (front, 2 prs)  $25.00 pr
72 (N.O.S.) Cutlass Supreme, H/O LH grille $50.00
68-72 W-30 Stick Cam .475 lift/ 328 dur. (N.O.S. in box)  $275.00
68-72+ TH Torque Converter Cover (Plastic, N.O.S.)  $36.00 ea
66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
68-7? Under Hood Light kits (N.O.S.)  $40.00 ea
69-72 442 Trunk Numeral Sets (N.O.S.) $50.00 set
69-70 442 Hood Numeral Sets  (N.O.S.) $50.00 set
69-72 442 Fender Numeral Sets (N.O.S.) $38.00 set
70-72 LH Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)  $200.00
70-72 Hurst Dual Gate Shifter Cable (N.O.S.)  $55.00
70-72 OAI Air Cleaner Springs (N.O.S)  $5.00 ea
71-72 Front Grille Plastics (N.O.S)  $35.00 ea                        
75-77 (N.O.S.) Cutlass Supreme Header Panel  $150.00
73-77 Cutlass/442/Hurst Wiper Switch (N.O.S.)  $22.00
 
USED PARTS:
68 Cutlass/442
68 8 Track Player (needs work, nice unit, housing broken)  $35.00
68 Front Bumper (nice w 2 small dings)  $125.00
68 442 Rear Bumper (very nice) $200.00
68 442 Air Cleaner Heat tube assm (2 pieces)  $30.00
68-69 442/W-30 400 Intake Manifold  $50.00
68 Trunk Vinyl Top Molding & Plate  $25.00
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
68 Cutlass Rear Bumper (core)  $75.00
68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $35.00              
Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set                               
68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00                     
68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $25.00 ea
68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea                                
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Sets (black, mint) $27.50 pr 

69 Cutlass/442
69 Cutlass, H/O, 442 Dash Woodgrain (mint orig, minus ash tray)  $30.00 
69 Cutlass/442 Conv trunk lid (mint)  $150.00
69 Hood Tongue $20.00
68-69 442/W-30 400 Intake Manifold  $50.00
69 Turn Signal Lens (nice)  $25.00 pr
69 Front Grille Center Filler (between grilles)  $8.00
69 Full Hubcaps (nice)  $35.00 set
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
69-72 Hood Hinges  $40.00 pr
69-70 "S" Hood Louver Chrome  $25.00 pr
69-70 "S" Hood Louver Moldings  $25.00 pr
68-72 Windshield Molding Sets  $45.00 set                                 
69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $35.00 ea
69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $25.00 ea

70 Cutlass/442
70 Hood Tongue $40.00
70 Front Bumper (core)  $75.00
70 Fender Eyebrows (nice, no pits)  $45.00 pr
70 RH Rally 350 grille (repaired, nice)  $75.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
70 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr
70 Cutlass Supreme Hood (excellent)  $80.00
70-71 Halo Vinyl Top Molding sets no "L " moldings (mint) $55.00 set
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea             
70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00                                    
69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00                                
70 "S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr         
70-72 Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens (restored)  $15.00 ea
70 Cutlass Supreme Tail Light Lens (restored) $23.00 ea

71 Cutlass/442
70-71 Cutlass Supreme Side Marker Lights $60.00 set
71 Cutlass "S" Grilles (nice used)  $100.00 pr
71 LH Cutlass Supreme Grille (nice)  $85.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $30.00 pr
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $10.00 ea
71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set
70-72 C/S LH/RH Side Glass  $25.00 ea 
71 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr

72 Cutlass/442
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $30.00 pr
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $10.00 ea
72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00                                  
72 Headlight Bezels (restored) $40.00 pr            
72 Tail Light Lens  $13.00 ea used, $26.00 ea (N.O.S.)

73 and Newer and Big Car Parts:
73-75 442 Console and Shifter (Maroon)  $80.00
73-77 Omega Floor Shift Tilt  $65.00
75 Omega Front Fenders (very nice pair)  $180.00 pr
75 Omega Bucket Seats (nice, maroon cloth)  $75.00 pr
72 Delta 88 Qtr End caps  $25.00 pr
72 Delta 88/ Ninety Eight Owners Manual (nice) $5.00
  
New reproduction parts:
Convertible Top Boots (Correct Grains for each different year)  $89.00ea
64  Black, Red, Lt. Blue, Fawn, Saddle, Turquoise, White
65  Same as 64  
66-67 Black, Red, Light Blue, Med. Blue, Bronze, Turquoise, White, Gold
68-72 Black, Red, Parchment, Lt. Blue, Teal Blue, Green Gold, Gold, Pearl,
Dk Blue, Dk. Green, Lt. Green, Lt. Saddle, Dk Saddle, Olive Green, Royal
Blue, White, Sandalwood, 

Molded Carpet Sets  $95.00 
64-67 - (Black, Red, Med. Blue, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Maroon)
68-72 - (Black, Red, Maroon, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Med. Blue, Dk.
Green,
Green Gold, Lt. Green, Teal Blue, Saddle, Sandalwood)
73-77 - (Same as 68-72 except Green Gold)

Door Panels  64-72  $265.00 for a set of all 4

Seat Covers  64-72  $325.00 front and rear sets any year or color.

Lifetime Guarantee on all correct bead window felts  $92.00 set (inner &
outer)
66-67 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (correct bead type) 
68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (not Supreme Coupes, correct bead) 
68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv (Outers only, correct bead)  $50.00

Outers Only available for some cars please inquire.  $54.00 set 

Replacement Window Felts (Flat type)  $60.00 set (inner & outer)
64-72 Cutlass/442 (state year and model)

Glove Box Liners
64-67 Glove box Liner w/clips  $15.99
68-69 Glove box Liner w/clips  $15.99
70-72 Glove box Liner w/clips  $15.99

Qrt Seals
70-72 Cutlass Supreme & Conv Qtr End seals  $13.00 pr

Hood Insulation
64-65 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
66 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
67 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
68-70 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner (w clips)  $18.00
70-72 Cutlass Supreme Hood Liner (w/clips)  $18.00
73-77 Cutlass $28.00

Liner Clips
Round Clips  $1.00 ea
Square Clips  $1.00 ea

A-Arm Shields
68-72 Upper A-Arm dust shields  $17.99 pr

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1999 19:40:02 -0600
From: texas442 <texas442@flash.net>
Subject: 1999 OCA Nationals Information

Happy New Year Everyone,

We just uploaded more information on the 1999 OCA Nationals.  You can
find information about the Convention dates, hotels, rates, phone
numbers, etc.  There is also a listing of the scheduled events.  You can
find all this information at this address:  

http://www.flash.net/~texas442/oca99event.html

Hope to see everyone there
Ali Zalzala
Member OCA, NTOC, & TGCC

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 20:57:04 -0500
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Car for sale

To All,
	I hope everyone had a happy and safe holiday. I certainly did. Anyway,
time has come for me to get rid of my 85 Delta 88 Royale Brougham. I will
not kid anybody here. I'm not getting rid of it because of it's beauty and
mechanical perfection. The car has about 130K on it and they've been tough
ones. I was going to strip out some interior stuff to install in my 66
Dynamic but I've decided (with the advice of others more qualified than I)
that it would be more work than it's worth. So I'm letting it go. It has
all the goodies, PW, PB, Tilt, Cruise, 60/40 bench with 6 way power on the
drivers side, and delay wipers. All the aforementioned stuff still works.
The motor runs well, no smoke (even at cold start) but it's making a
tapping sound I don't like. The trans is also making weird noises but it
seems to work OK. It's a conventionally aspirated 307 4 bbl. with an
overdrive tranny. I did put new ball joints and front wheel bearings in it
about 8 months ago. Sorry, no radio, it didn't have one when I got it and I
need the one I put in it, but the wiring harness is in tact and the factory
speakers are in good shape.
	 I have all the original spoke hubcaps, most missing the olds emblem, 
but
the locks and key are all there. I can honestly say that if you picked it
up from here, (Tobyhanna PA) you'd be safe to drive it home just about
anywhere. I can't say that anything weird won't happen along the way, but
if I had to, I'd take it right now to my folks house in North Carolina.
(about 500 miles).
	Now for the best feature. Selling price is $300.00    	It's 
going into the
local paper next week so if anyones interested just email me privately.
				Regards,
				R. Kevin Noon
				66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
				85 Delta 88 Royale Brougham (for now)
				87 Ch*vy C-20 Conversion Van

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1999 21:13:31 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: FS:  '57-'67 Olds Parts

                                  C&M Classic Parts
                      1132 Chatmoss Drive, Virginia Beach, VA 23464
                            (757)474-0869, FAX (757)474-0694
                                <chermac@exis.net>
                                        OCA# 24275

        Hours:  Mon.-Fri.  4:00 PM - 10:00 PM,  Sat. 9:00 AM - 3:00 PM,  
        CLOSED Sunday
        *We accept all major Credit Cards: VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and 
        Discover.*

                             OLDSMOBILE Restoration Parts

New arrival "Parts"
66 W-30 Tri-carb Ram Air Pkg (NICE Orig. Breather not numbered, ducts and
hoses)  $3500.00
67 442/Cutlass front Bumper (nice)  $110.00
67 442/Cutlass Supreme Rear Bumper (nice)  $135.00
66 442 Tri -Carb "B"  "V" and "T" coded Dash - 1 heads (nice, casting dates
137&138)  $375.00 pr
67 442 W-30 "C" Heads (VG code, drilled and plugged)  $375.00 pr
66-67 442 3.55 gear set 8.2" 10 bolt  (nice) $100.00
66-67 Wiper transmissions  $40.00 ea
66-67 Cutlass/F-85 4 door Sedan Front Doors (mint)  $100.00 pr
66-67 Cowl Panels (mint)  $35.00 ea
66-67 Cutlass/442 Dash Harness (w/o gauges, mint, looks new)  $175.00
66-67 Post Coupe Lt Blue Arm rest pads (like new)  $15.00 ea
66-67 Sunvisor (RH, w / mirror, mint)  $15.00
67 Cutlass 4 door, Front and Rear Seats (blue, very nice)  $150.00 both
67 Cutlass 4 door, Door Panels (blue, mint)  $65.00 for all 4
67 442/Cutlass Trunk Panel (beautiful chrome, NO pits, one tiny nick)  $100.00
66 442 Trunk Panel (nice, couple very minor pits)  $100.00
66-67 442 4 spd Chassis (rolling, very good cond)  $250.00
66 Rear Bumper Core  $55.00
66 442 W-30 Inner/Outer Bumper Ducts (new doesn't include hoses)  $600.00 set
66 442 W-30 Inner Ducts  $450.00 pr  
66-67 442 Air Cleaner Pie Tin (nice) $12.00
64-72 Boxed Lower Control Arms (originals)  $110.00 pr
66-67 Rear glass valance panel (mint)  $90.00
67 442 Grille Bar (orig., nice)  $45.00
66-67 Dash Pad (red, good, 1 tiny crack)  $85.00
66 Cutlass Supreme Dash Emblem (mint) $20.00 
66-67 Holiday 2 dr Quarter Panel RH (mint)  $275.00
67 442 Grille (nice)  $50.00
67 Hardtop door panels $50.00 pr
66-67 Dash Chrome Insert (nice, not perfect)  $80.00
64-65 4 Row Radiator Top Plate  $35.00
65-67 400 Pistons (std, used) $40.00 set of 8
53 (N.O.S.) 88/98 Hood Emblem (in box)  $125.00 
57 (N.O.S.) 88/98 Taillight Lens (1 only)  $35.00
57 (Repro) 88/98 Taillight Lens (2)  $40.00 pr
60 (N.O.S.) 88/98 RH Taillight assm. w/chrome  $145.00
65-7? 3&4 spd Bellhousing $50.00 
64-66 Auto Console (black, w/wiring, nice)  $125.00
         
New Repro Parts:
64-67 Battery Tray (Repro)  $30.00
66 442 Tri-Carb Linkage Kit (complete) $78.00
67 442 Grille Bar (repro)  $92.00
67 Fender Eye Brow Moldings (LH/RH, repro)  $73.00 pr
66-67 442/Cutlass Drip Rail Moldings (NEW, repro) $78.00 set
67-70 Turn Signal Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea
67-70 Tilt Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea 

New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts 1964-1972 Olds/Cutlass/442
64-72 Clutch Inspection covers (N.O.S.)  $22.00 ea
67-75 TH400 Shifter Cable Bracket (N.O.S.)  $24.00
68-75+ TH350 Shifter Cable Bracket (N.O.S.)  $24.00
68-72+ TH Torque Converter Cover (Plastic, N.O.S.)  $36.00 ea
66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea

Used Parts:
64 Cutlass/442                       
(2) 64-65 2 Bar Spinners (N.O.S.)  $50.00 pr
64-65 330/400 Valve Covers (nice)  $25.00 pr
64-65 Cutlass/442 Conv Rear Side Glass (mint)  $80.00 pr
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  $50.00
64-65 Spinner Hubcab (dual bar, single)  $35.00
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
RH Headlight Bezel  $15.00                                                  
Front Bumper Core  $50.00                                                   
F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00 

65 Cutlass/442
65 400 442 4-Jet Carb (rebuilt)  $175.00
65 442 Grille (nice used)  $125.00
65 Cutlass Grille (good used)  $75.00
65 442 RH Fender (no rust, small ding)  $200.00
64-65 330/400 Valve Covers (nice)  $35.00 pr
64-65 Cutlass/442 Conv Rear Side Glass (mint)  $80.00 pr
65 442 Air Cleaner Top (no base)  $85.00 ea
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  $50.00
65 Cutlass Dash Emblem (mint)  $35.00
64-65 Spinner Hubcab (dual bar, single)  $35.00
65 Cutlass 4 Door Rear Wheelwell Die cast pieces (front)  $20.00 pr
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings  LH/RH rear $15.00 ea
64-65 F-85 Steering Wheel Center (mint)  $15.00

66 Cutlass/442
66 Cutlass Post Coupe Rear Side Panels (black, rare w/woodgrain, nice)  $50.00
pr
66-67 Post Coupe Doors (mint)  $150.00 pr
66 442/Cutlass Radiator Support (nice, blasted no rust)  $125.00
66-67 SSI Wheels (nice not perfect, 5)  $250.00 set
66-67 RH "W" Exhaust Manifold (mint)  $125.00
66-67 442 Air Cleaner (2)  $85.00 ea
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  $50.00
66 F-85 Trunk Lid Emblem $10.00
66 F-85 Trunk Lid Molding  $20.00
66 Spinner Hubcap (Tri bar, single)  $20.00
66 Floor Shift Steering Column Collars $10.00 ea
66-67 Clocks  $40.00 ea
66 Cutlass Supreme Dash Emblem (very nice)  $20.00
66 F-85 Deluxe Dash Emblem (nice)  $15.00
66 F-85 Trunk Lid Molding  $35.00
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
66 Cutlass Trunk Molding (very good)  $45.00
66 Cutlass Tail Light Bezels (very good)  $65.00 pr
66 F-85/Cutlass grille (nice)   $55.00
66 F-85/Cutlass grille (good)  $35.00 
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
66 Cutlass/442 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
Post Coupe Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 pr
F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea                                  

67 Cutlass/442
67 330 cu in engine (complete)  $200.00
67 8 Track Player (nice, works?)  $75.00
67 442 W-30 UHV system (complete w/ N.O.S coil and experimental distributor) 
 $550.00
67 442 W-30 Core Support (factory stamped, bent on LH side)  $145.00
67 Front Bumper Filler Panel (mint)  $40.00
67 442/Cutlass Radiator Support (nice)  $130.00
66-67 442 Air Cleaner (2)  $85.00 ea
67 Deluxe Full Wheel Covers $35.00 set
67 442/Cutlass Radiator Support (nice, blasted no rust)  $125.00
66-67 Clocks  $40.00 ea
67 Cutlass Dash Emblem (good)  $10.00
67 Cutlass Supreme Dash Emblems (2 very nice)  $20.00 ea
67 442/Cutlass Front Bumper Guards  $15.00 pr
67 Remote Mirror (good, not great)  $20.00
67 F-85 Steering Wheel Center (good chrome) $15.00
67 Cutlass Supreme/442 Steering Wheel Centers (mint)  $35.00 
67 Fender End Caps  $30.00 pr
67 4 spd Speedometer Adapter (3.42 gears & 4spd)  $45.00
67 Cutlass Fender Emblems (nice)  $10.00 ea
67 Plain Cutlass Fender Rockets (nice)  $5.50 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
67 Cutlass Headlight Bezels (nice)  $50.00 pr
67 442 Trunk Lids (clean)  $90.00 ea
67 RH Fender (small metal patch panel, straight)  $135.00

Big Car Parts:
66-67 Toronado Rear Bumper (very nice)  $100.00
66 Toro Batman Steering Wheel, Tilt/Tele column (black, very nice)  $145.00
62 Super 88 Tail Panel Chrome  (good)  $25.00
62 Super 88 Grille (good)  $50.00
62 Big Car (88, 98, Starfire) Front Bumper (straight, very good)  $95.00 

New reproduction parts:
Convertible Top Boots (Correct Grains for each different year)  $89.00ea
64  Black, Red, Lt. Blue, Fawn, Saddle, Turquoise, White
65  Same as 64  
66-67 Black, Red, Light Blue, Med. Blue, Bronze, Turquoise, White, Gold
68-72 Black, Red, Parchment, Lt. Blue, Teal Blue, Green Gold, Gold, Pearl,
Dk Blue, Dk. Green, Lt. Green, Lt. Saddle, Dk Saddle, Olive Green, Royal
Blue, White, Sandalwood, 

Molded Carpet Sets  $95.00 
64-67 - (Black, Red, Med. Blue, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Maroon)
68-72 - (Black, Red, Maroon, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Med. Blue, Dk. Green,
Green Gold, Lt. Green, Teal Blue, Saddle, Sandalwood)
73-77 - (Same as 68-72 except Green Gold)

Door Panels  64-72  $265.00 for a set of all 4

Seat Covers  64-72  $335.00 front and rear sets any year or color.

Vinyl Dash Overlays (makes your wood dash areas look like carbon fiber)
$50.00 set 

Lifetime Guarantee on all correct bead window felts  $92.00 set (inner & outer)
66-67 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (correct bead type) 
68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (not Supreme Coupes, correct bead) 
68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv (Outers only, correct bead)  $50.00

Replacement Window Felts (Flat type)  $60.00 set (inner & outer)
64-72 Cutlass/442 (state year and model)

Glove Box Liners
64-67 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
68-69 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
70-72 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99

Qrt Seals
70-72 Cutlass Supreme & Conv Qtr End seals  $13.00 pr

Hood Insulation
64-65 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
66 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
67 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
68-70 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner (w clips)  $18.00
70-72 Cutlass Supreme Hood Liner (w/clips)  $18.00
73-77 Cutlass $28.00

Liner Clips
Round Clips  $1.00 ea
Square Clips  $1.00 ea

A-Arm Shields
68-72 Upper A-Arm dust shields  $14.99 pr

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 21:15:08 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: FS: 68-75+ Olds Parts

I thought you were not suppose to sell parts on this email list. Thats what
442.com classifieds are for. Stick to car questions and answers.Happy New
Year!!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 21:34:25 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Cold weather starting problems/oil pumps

In a message dated 1/1/99 3:57:17 PM Pacific Standard Time,
Pianotuner@fastservice.com writes:

<<  Apparently, the
 HEI can not fire wet plugs.  Now I have a new problem of inadequate oil
 pressure.  I am going to look at a new oil pump next. >>

     How often have have lis members had problems with low oil pressure to
find out the pump is ok? Just like the design for the automatic transmission
pumps, these SHOULD work until they literally break, and you have NO oil
pressure. Very gradual decline in oil pressure (months, years?) may be because
the pump is wearing, but my 403 that had 5 psi at idle, 30 at 60mph, had
nothing wrong with the oil pump. The crank/rod bearings were shot, and I
assume (correct me if I'm wrong here) thats where the pressure was leaking
out. I plan on reusing that pump IF a new driveshaft isn't so sloppy in it.
Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 21:38:24 -0500
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Re: FS: 68-75+ Olds Parts

- -----Original Message-----
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com <RARE73OLDS@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, January 01, 1999 9:16 PM
Subject: Re: FS: 68-75+ Olds Parts


>I thought you were not suppose to sell parts on this email list. Thats what
>442.com classifieds are for. Stick to car questions and answers.Happy New
>Year!!
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1999 21:57:04 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@intrlink.com>
Subject: Re: Cold weather starting problems/oil pumps

DYeager535@aol.com wrote:
>      How often have have lis members had problems with low oil pressure to
> find out the pump is ok? Just like the design for the automatic transmission
> pumps, these SHOULD work until they literally break, and you have NO oil
> pressure. Very gradual decline in oil pressure (months, years?) may be 
because
> the pump is wearing, but my 403 that had 5 psi at idle, 30 at 60mph, had
> nothing wrong with the oil pump. The crank/rod bearings were shot, and I
> assume (correct me if I'm wrong here) thats where the pressure was leaking
> out. I plan on reusing that pump IF a new driveshaft isn't so sloppy in it.
> Dorian

Sometime the pickup can be clogged.  On the olds V8s the nylon teeth on
the timing gears (or maybe they should be called sprockets?) break off
with age and mileage and end up in the oil pump pickup screen.  I've
seen it twice, on a 72 350 and an 80 260.  (The bearings on both engines
were still worn out though. :( )  Dunno if the V6s have nylon teeth or a
timing chain but it might be worth looking into.  The 403 definitly has
the nylon teeth if it's still got it's original timing chain.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 20:52:33 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: FS: 68-75+ Olds Parts

Your not supposed to spam or try to sell non-Olds related stuff.
I would hardly call stuff for sale by people on the list as spam.
There are a lot of people looking for a lot of different stuff and
for some is the reason they are on the list.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>I thought you were not suppose to sell parts on this email list. Thats what
>442.com classifieds are for. Stick to car questions and answers.Happy New
>Year!!
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 21:57:58 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: FS: 68-75+ Olds Parts

wasnt aware of his special parts area...ment no harm..always see other getting
screamed at thats all...I spend about 100,000 a year on parts for my 46
musclecars so I need parts too...I love this site forthech info..

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 21:59:07 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: FS: 68-75+ Olds Parts

I have owned 46 musclecars, not own...I love those parts...Happy New Year!!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 22:06:08 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Cold weather starting problems/oil pumps

In a message dated 1/1/99 6:55:17 PM Pacific Standard Time, gregp@intrlink.com
writes:

<< Sometime the pickup can be clogged.  On the olds V8s the nylon teeth on
 the timing gears (or maybe they should be called sprockets?) break off
 with age and mileage and end up in the oil pump pickup screen.  I've
 seen it twice, on a 72 350 and an 80 260.  (The bearings on both engines
 were still worn out though. :( )  Dunno if the V6s have nylon teeth or a
 timing chain but it might be worth looking into.  The 403 definitly has
 the nylon teeth if it's still got it's original timing chain.
 
 Greg Pruett
 72 Vista Cruiser
 67 Cutlass Supreme
 80 Cutlass Calais >>

     Thanks Greg, no the morons who rebuil the motor put on a new timing
chain. Unfortunately not double roller, although this is still good, I'll just
put it in another Olds 350 I have that does have the original cam 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 22:07:08 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Cold weather starting problems/oil pumps

In a message dated 1/1/99 6:55:17 PM Pacific Standard Time, gregp@intrlink.com
writes:

<< Sometime the pickup can be clogged.  On the olds V8s the nylon teeth on
 the timing gears (or maybe they should be called sprockets?) break off
 with age and mileage and end up in the oil pump pickup screen.  I've
 seen it twice, on a 72 350 and an 80 260.  (The bearings on both engines
 were still worn out though. :( )  Dunno if the V6s have nylon teeth or a
 timing chain but it might be worth looking into.  The 403 definitly has
 the nylon teeth if it's still got it's original timing chain.
 
 Greg Pruett
 72 Vista Cruiser
 67 Cutlass Supreme
 80 Cutlass Calais >>




     Darnit, last post got sent accidently before I was done. I can understand
how the nylon could clog the pickup. Bad timing AND no oil...what a great
combo : ) Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 22:14:19 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: sorry sorry sorry sorry sorry...to the parts man

  I will buy parts from you real soon to make it up to you...or trade I have
lots of NOS Olds stuff....your the best......

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 03:23:21 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Comp Cams - Olds Muscle Car Cams

>Noisy? Didn't you have an adjustable valve train? If you did, it should not
>have been noisy. The base circle on most HiPo cams REQUIRE a change to
>adjustable rockers.

Or longer pushrods and shims to fine-tune the preload.

Bob Barry

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 2 Jan 1999 03:23:19 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: RE: SMW 403 hunt

>How hard would it be to patch-weld one up to simulate a solid main web? 

If you could weld a filler in the cast-iron block that would add strength
rather than reduce it (and improperly-welded fillers, especially on
cast-iron, might weaken it), then there's theoretically no reason you
couldn't. The trouble would be in getting it right.

>Or is the strength difference we're discussing comparative to 2 and 4 bolt
>main chevy
>(meaning windowed 403's are good to 6000rpm or 400hp and above that you need
>a solid web.)?

It's relative; short bursts at high-rpm with a well-balanced reciprocating
assembly can be handled by those open mains (mine has held up fine).
Constant high-load situations such as circle-track racing or towing would
probably cause problems, which is why tow-package equipped vehicles are most
likely the place you'll find SMW blocks (just as that is the place to find
forged 455 cranks, in the 2-bbl tow-package Deltas, not the H/O's or 
Toronados).

Bob Barry
'78 Electra w/409 Olds small-block

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 22:35:57 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: To C&M parts group

 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 22:30:19 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Cold weather starting problems

Bill,
It sounds like it stalled when the choke opened (or failed to open) and was
thoroughly flooded by the starting attempts after that.  I would change the
oil before I jumped to any conclusions about oil pressure.  Probably very
diluted with gasoline.
Regards,
Fred
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bill B. <Pianotuner@fastservice.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, January 01, 1999 6:57 PM
Subject: Cold weather starting problems


>I had commented before about not being able to start the V6 in my 82
>Delta 88 for the past several weeks after my son had it running for
>about 2 minutes on a very cold day.  There was no sound of firing but I
>had spark and gas.  I cranked this engine long and hard for several days
>in a row with the help of my battery charger boost. (I even shot it with
>ether.) I know of several methods to check for a timing chain problem,
>but I really did not want to turn wrenches in the cold. I needed to get
>the car moved today because of an incoming snow storm.  I pulled the
>number one plug and found it to be  wet with gas and ether.  I quickly
>purchased another set of plugs and installed 3 before trying to start
>the engine.  That was it--FOULED PLUGS!!! I would recomend checking your
>plugs if anyone has this type of cold weather problem.  Apparently, the
>HEI can not fire wet plugs.  Now I have a new problem of inadequate oil
>pressure.  I am going to look at a new oil pump next.
>
>Bill Bussell
>Speedway, Indiana

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 22:38:24 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: To C&M parts group

  I will also add you to my webpage as the first area to check for
parts...Have a Happy New Year...from the foot in mouth guy...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 21:40:38 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: How do I isolate bad cylinder/bearing?

This is one of those things that your just going to have to open
up the motor to see whats wrong.  Could be a couple different
things but if you drop the pan you can get a look at just about 
everything.  Pull the main and rod caps one at a time to check
the bearings, Check how much slack is in the timing chain, 
and see how the bores look with the piston at TDC.  This will
only give you an idea of the obvious things.  My suggestion
would be a leak down test to check the sealing of each 
cyl.  This would tell you how bad the motor is.  Running as a
V5 would probably tear the engine apart due to vibration.
If you pull the piston/rod out you start pumping oil out the
exhaust, plus you would have fuel dumping into the crankcase.
You could pull the lifters/valvetrain from that cyl to solve that
problem but your oil press would come out from where the 
missing rod is.  If you don't pull the rod/piston it will hit the
crank and cause even more trouble.  My vote is just put
a 307/350 in it and save the hassle.  

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>How would I go about isolating the bad cylinder or bearing? I was
>thinking maybe I can open the oil pan and get access to the bearings,
>disconnect one piston at a time till the problem went away, if it was a
>problem with a jammed piston. I could then either fix that piston (by
>removing the appropriate head) or run it as a V5 (would that be too
>rough?). Is this feasible?
>
>Is it feasible to isolate a bad bearing by working from the oil pan
>opening  if that's the problem?
>
>I'm afraid I don't have a hoist to actually take out the engine and work
>on it.
>
>Thanks!
>-Mritunjay
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 01 Jan 1999 21:42:42  -0600
From: "jgassaway" <jgassaway@www2000.net>
Subject: NONE

I'm new to the list.  I know that some Toronados in the early-mid 70's 
had airbags.  Did they work like airbags today?  Does anyone have a 
picture of one?  Was the steering wheel alot bigger than ones w/airbags 
today?  @what speed was it designed to go off?  What Oldsmobiles had 
airbags then besides Toros?

Thanks, Justin

- --

Get your FREE PRIVATE EMAIL at http://www.www2000.net/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 1 Jan 1999 22:49:22 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: 69' model Oldsmobile delta 88 FS...

Another one from the newsgroups...



>69' model Oldsmobile delta 88.  Power Steering, Air, Automatic.  This car was 
>given to me through the death of my great grandfather back in August 1998.  
He 
>quit driving this car in 1990.  It has set in garage(out of the weather) ever 
>since his death back in August 1998.  It hasn't been started since 1990 up 
>until it was given to me in August.  It has 49,000 original miles.  The moter 
>is a 350 rocket. It would be a very good car to refinish.  The inside is in 
>excellent shape.  Blue vinel seats with a blue leather dash.  The outside is 
>in good shape as well.  No bondo!!  No rust!!  The passenger side has a 
couple 
>small dents.  I assume due to a ditch.  I have no use for this car and wish 
to 
>sell.  
>If you are interested, please feel free to write back with any questions you 
>may have.  If you would like to see a picture of the car, I can send one 
>through email or snail mail.  Just send your address.
>EllisC@highland.net
>Hope to hear from ya,
>Chris

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1695
*********************************

