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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1631


oldsmobile-digest      Sunday, November 29 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1631



Re: Rationalizations. was: DRL's
Re: 72 Tilt Steering Fix
Re: model cars
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1629
Re: 1947 Olds Custom Cruiser: Hot Rod or keep Orignal?
Loose Timing Chain
Speaking of g-body 442's...
Will a G-body steering wheel fit a '68 Cutlass??
Model Kits
Re: Model Kits
'71 rear end in a '66?
Re: 1947 Olds Custom Cruiser : Hot Rod or keep Original?  
list
Re: list
73-77 list
Re: Loose Timing Chain
Big Olds Wagon!
Re: 73-77 list and 2-questions
Re: LS6 454 Cutlass
Re: 73-77 list and 2-questions
Re: Loose Timing Chain
1976 455 - L77?
Re: Dashboard Chrome
47 Olds and some questions
Re: list
Re: Dashboard Chrome
Re: 455 codes
Re: Loose Timing Chain
Re: 455 codes
reason for list info req.
Re: reason for list info req.
Re: list
RE: reason for list info req.
Re: 73-77 list and 2-questions
horn screwing up on '71 cutlass
Re: LS6 454 Cutlass
Re: LS6 454 Cutlass
[none]
Re: fast idle
Re: 67 Vista Cruiser
Re: fast idle
UNBOUNCE: Posi, necessary for High speed power?
Re: Loose Timing Chain
Re: outrageous web site!!/'73 info wanted
Re: reason for list info req.
Re: reason for list info req.
ADV: We guarantee you a spot in the top ten!
Re: 67 Vista Cruiser
Re: reason for list info req.
Re: reason for list info req.
Re: reason for list info req.
Re: reason for list info req.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 18:09:31 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Rationalizations. was: DRL's

K, 
Wrote a book on disassembly of rotary(Wankel) engines, available from
Sam's. Piece of cake, ground problems a lot harder to correct. (Not Sam's
Whsle) Sams from Ind, Ind, did a lot of electrical schematics for TV sets.
Lou

- ----------
> From: KarlAune@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Rationalizations. was: DRL's
> Date: Saturday, November 28, 1998 5:55 PM
> 
> Well, that is where we differ.
> Karl would rather stay with what he knows and lollygag over the work :-)}
> than aquire a ~new~ vehicle with an engine that is quite radical compared
to
> what he has knowledge about now!
> 
> Much in the same way that Karl is not eager to disassemble a Wankle
rotary
> engine, also not looking forward to the posibility of serpentine timing
belts,
> electric Qjets (certainly not EFI!!), and dealership-only electronic
chips
> that are $600 each and all 7 fry at the same time. Prefer spark plugs
that are
> visible to the naked eye.
> 
> Karl is much better of going into the metal fabrication buisiness first.
Repro
> later.
> (1907 cam? Sure! ... What're the specs?)
> 
> SOM
> 
> &KA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 20:07:11 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: 72 Tilt Steering Fix

In a message dated 11/27/98 11:16:12 PM Pacific Standard Time,
PETTRIX@prodigy.net writes:

<<  knwo this has been covered before, but I need to refresh my memory. On my
 72 442 the steering column had a tendancy to feel a little loose. It felt
 loose up and down and side to side. It is a tilit column steering. I have
 the sport wheel off, the next plate off, and the plate where there is a
 clip and you have to push down on the springs to get the clip off, all of
 the afore mentioned is off. My question is WHAT DO YOU HAVE TO DO TO
 TIGHTEN THE COLUMN? Do I have to further remove the internals? What must I
 do to tighten the column? What should I watch out for that can be a
 problem?
  >>

     This year basically the same internally as the ones on the g-bodies? If
it is, it's the three bolts that hold the column together deep inside. They
are loose.  Sounds like you are close to them. In the columns I am familiar
with, you should be able to see 1-2 of the bolts. If they aren't similar
columns, sorry for wasting your time : ) Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 19:15:12 +0000
From: f85@juno.com (Joe R Brockman)
Subject: Re: model cars

Man you got lucky.  I paid $15 for the same kit!  Oh well, it was worth
it.  I just bought the 66 kit and am really looking forward to working on
it since I have a 66.

Joe B
66 olds F-85
On Sat, 28 Nov 1998 16:46:35 -0600 bloom9@juno.com (C K) writes:
>I been watching with interest the thread that was going about the '66 
>Cutlass and the other models. 
>
>So, I told myself I'd better get down to Wally World and see if they 
>have one.
>
>Man, was I pleased!! What I found was not a '66, but a '67 442 that 
>features the W-30 option!! Yes, the car is painted red on the box and 
>is an exact reproduction on 1\25 scale.
>
>It's made by Lindberg and is a skill level 2 (glue & paint required). 
>On the bottom panel of the box there's actual pictures of a real 442 
>engine compartment and interior, which is just like mine except mine 
>is black. The kit number is 72171. The price was $8.88 on sale.
>
>And yes, I bought two :-p.
>
>Fred Kemp
>bloom9@juno.com
>Tulsa, OK area
>'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass
>___________________________________________________________________ 
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get 
>completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html 
>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]  

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 20:38:07 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1629

Cliff,
    I'm sure Igor will have his in way before me.  I am in the
planning/saving money stage right now.  The car still runs fairly well so I
am not in a rush.  Your car is lighter than ours so you may not come to the
same conlusions we do.  I will definately fill you guys in though.  I am
going to have an essentially stock car with a bigger dual pattern cam and
and ported exhaust.  To get a real good idea you might be best off getting
Joe Mondello's Tech book then asking him follow up questions.  Although I
have more confidence picking out Chevy cams, what kind of performance are
you looking for?  The price of rebuild goes up after .5 inch lift according
to Joe's book.

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
>
>Jim or Igor, could you guys hurry and get the cam installed so you can tell
us
>what it runs like :)
>
>I need to get one ordered soon for my engine and I haven't quite decided on
>what grind.  I made a little chart of different grinds I have heard
discussed
>on the list (abbreviated so it won't wrap).
>
>            Int./Exh. Int./Exh.       1/4 pulls
>Make        Dur. @ .050 Lift in inches  time to      Who has
>- ----------- ----------- --------------- ------- ------- -----------------
- ------
>SpeedPro    272/280  .448"/.472"             4600    Igor has
>Lunati     214/224     .473"/.496"                     I.T. buying, P.B.
liked
>Crane 2pat          .496"/.512"                     Robert Schinkel has
>Cam#1       214/224     .472"/.494"                     I.T. consid. B.B.
liked
>lift > 0.50" Caution below here there be stock springs broken!
>Dave Smith  226/232     .500"/.510"     12.5@105 5400   David Brodie 3.5K#
car
>CompCams292 244/244     .518"/.518" 13.242          Donny Arnold ?
>Mon. JM4-5  238/246     .542"/.558"                     Just info
>Dave Smith  244/254     .560"/.545"     11.4@119 5800   David Brodie, idle
500
>
>If any of this is totally bogus then please let me know.  I would like to
get
>more quantitative data on this subject like drive ratios, vehicle weights,
idle
>speeds and idle vacuum but I guess I just have to buy one and hope for the
>best.  Good luck Igor and Jim and please let me (and the list) know how it
>comes out.
>
>Cliff Simpson
>csimpson@ucalgary.ca
>'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
>
>------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 02:52:49 -0600
From: "Charles A. Dempsey" <cdemps@lsumc.edu>
Subject: Re: 1947 Olds Custom Cruiser: Hot Rod or keep Orignal?

"Ken Swick" <swickka@pa.net> wrote:
 
> Well, I got some h#lp from the list ... and other semi-interested
> parties. The problem is ... many advise me to customize. Part of the
> rationale is that parts for customizing ... engine, drive-train, tranny,
> buckets are easily available. Parts for a 47 Custom Cruiser may not be ....
> 
> I am learning strongly in the direction of keeping it as factory
>    as possible ... not many of these around, or so I'm told.
> 
> I'd like to hear some thoughts on the whole question of
> hotrod vs restoration.

Hi Ken and list,

If the car's a wreck, you can hot rod it with a clear conscience. If
there's no motor or transmission the body's rusty and the interior's
shot it will cost mucho doleros to build a non-matching car. A non
matching car isn't worth as much as an original, so you could either
part it out or (cringe) build a hot rod.

If the car is mostly complete, solid and straight please consider
keeping it original. Antique parts are not as hard to find as you might
think. If some things are not available right now *DON"T LET THAT WORRY
YOU*. Burn that bridge when you come to it.

<soapbox>

Hot rods are a fad, and the return on your investment is subject to the
whims of a prospective buyer who "would have done it different". An
original car can always be hot rodded, but a hot rod can not usually be
returned to original condition without an effort equivalent to that of
restoring a wreck.

</soapbox>

The bottom line is, do what you want. It's your car. Nevertheless, in my
opinion it is more difficult to build a good hot rod than it is to do a
good restoration.

Submitted for your consideration,
Charles

'56 Super 88
'63 International Loadstar 1600 (huh?)
'64 LeSabre
'73 H/O
'73 Triumph Stag
'76 Cutlass Supreme
'84 Mustang SVO (for sale)
'86 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
'88 F-250 4X4 Diesel (the car hauler)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 20:08:01 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Loose Timing Chain

I have good news, and good news.  The first good news is that I convinced my
friend to not get a 400 CHEVY, but rather build a 403 OLDS.  The second good
news is that his 305 is running like crap.  Timing seems to be out (went out
pretty rapidly) and it is pinging.  Since this car is his ONLY
transportation and the 403 won't be done for about a year, we need to do
something quick.  Should be change the chain.  Are the 305s known to stretch
this bad (car has 160,000 miles).  What else could it be.  Igor.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 22:53:22 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Speaking of g-body 442's...

Saw it advertised:

>Cass County Star Gazette  (Beardstown, IL)  (Area Code:217)    Date Posted:
11/28/1998
>FOR SALE: 1987 Olds Cutless 442, 80,000 miles, sunroof, maroon & gold, ex.
condition, must see! Rushville. 217-322-3877.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 22:57:46 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Will a G-body steering wheel fit a '68 Cutlass??

Saw a nice leather wrapped one on a '78ish Cutlass in a yard today. Just
wondering if it would fit on my '68. 

What about the horn switch?

TIA.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 22:06:48 -0500
From: "person" <vbdeveloper@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Model Kits

To all you modelers:

    Does anybody have or has anybody seen a 69 98 Convertible/ Hardtop kit?
please respond privately
VBDeveloper@worldnet.att.net


                                       =
                                           =
                                                =
==================================
'69 Olds Ninety-Eight Topless Bubba======
====666=================999============
        666                                  999

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 00:35:36 EST
From: W451973@aol.com
Subject: Re: Model Kits

nope, no one ever made one

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 21:44:29 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: '71 rear end in a '66?

What would it take to put a 1971 VC rear end in a '66 VC?

I know the axle's spring purches are different.
will 68-72 trailing arms give me the right pinion angle with the newer rear
end?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 21:48:08 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: 1947 Olds Custom Cruiser : Hot Rod or keep Original?  

At 05:10 PM 11/28/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Well, I got some h#lp from the list ... and other semi-interested
>parties. The problem is ... many advise me to customize. Part of the 
>rationale is that parts for customizing ... engine, drive-train, tranny, 
>buckets are easily available. Parts for a 47 Custom Cruiser may not be ....
>
If you want to drive it every day, then do the custom work.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 01:02:12 EST
From: MFATZII@aol.com
Subject: list

can't seem to find it anywhere.......anybody got the link or the addess or the
name of the list out there for "older" GM stuff

muchos grass-e-ass



Ryan (MFatzII@aol.com)
Lincoln,  Nebraska
<<Turn it on, Wind it up, Blow it out, OLDS-MO-BILE>>

56 88 4dr Sedan  (Project Rocket) 
<A HREF="http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/wieders2/">Click here</A>
83 Cutlass Supreme Brougham 307(RIP)
85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham V-6(girlfriend's)
89 Chevy Beretta CL (Ryan's  a.k.a   pool shark)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 22:08:59 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: list

At 01:02 AM 11/29/98 -0500, you wrote:
>can't seem to find it anywhere.......anybody got the link or the addess or
the
>name of the list out there for "older" GM stuff
>
>muchos grass-e-ass
it's name is gm-restotech.
Unfortunatly I've also lost the address. :(
still searching for it though

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 01:20:49 EST
From: W451973@aol.com
Subject: 73-77 list

hey everybody, wasnt someone talking about making a 73-77 list at one time?
what happened?
dennis
w451973

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 01:34:14 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Loose Timing Chain

In a message dated 98-11-28 22:14:25 EST, you write:

<<  Should be change the chain.  Are the 305s known to stretch
 this bad (car has 160,000 miles). >>

Gets our vote.
Chain swap should be long overdue.

Especially if not done previously.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 00:59:39 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Big Olds Wagon!

Saw an interesting ride over the turkey day break in ND.  (Yeah, went there
~again~)  Leaving town, I saw a 78 or so Ninety Eight, hearse.  Looked like a
hearse, anyway, there were no lights, and had all the fancy decorations on
it...  But it was white.  Pretty rusted up, but neat, anyway.  I'd never seen 
an
Olds conversion.  Especially that new.  Cool.  Looked great with those vertical
taillights in back there, between a tailgate ;)


- -- 
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 03:09:28 EST
From: Bbymks4@aol.com
Subject: Re: 73-77 list and 2-questions

                  Hi there, I'm a new guy out here, I've been on the list for
about 1-week.
    If there's going to be a 73-77 list, I'd like to be on it. I've got a 73
442, and it needs
    alot of restoration work, that would be: new carpet, new headliner, new 
    reupholstery etc. (by the way........I have a "Standard catalog catalog of
Oldmobile
    1897-1997" and from what I could see, it says that '73 was the first, and
maybe
   the only year that a full size Cutlass came with a leather interior. I
don't know this 
   to be a for sure fact, and I was wondering if anyone else out there would
know 
   anything about this. Also I have a question on the side window, it's a
cutlass "S"
   window, that would be the large triangular window, not the smaller window
that's
  on the Supremes. My chrome's all faded, and missing some pieces, so what I'd
  really like to do with it is to make it a "pushout" window. I would be doing
this for
  mainly for ventalation considering my car is a non-ac, and it's black on
black. I have 
  a ' 98 Sienna,  it has electric rear push outs, and they are sweet. So I was
  wondering if anyone has ever made a sidewindow modification like what I'm
talking
  about. I'm glad to know that there are alot of people out there that like
Oldsmobile 
  as much as I do, and one of my dreams is to build me a great car, with
enough
  power, and enough modern day options (CC PW PDL ect...) that I'd really be
able  
  to truly say.....that I have a..... C~A~R.
   Many thanks from:
  Steve Maggard                  
     who owns..... 1-73 442 
                          1-89 chev 1/2 ton truck
                          1-98 Toyota Sienna
 
   

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 02:30:15 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: LS6 454 Cutlass

Well, I seemed to have found an answer to my question.  The 455 option was
L78 code (still not sure).  DOES ANYONE KNOW.  I don't want to paint that on
my fender and then it turns out to be a 350 or some Chevy.  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 04:53:14 EST
From: DUKEOFBLUZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: 73-77 list and 2-questions

those windows mount from the inside,,if you didnt know,, we have a web site
for 73-77s,, thanks,, Jeffrey T. Fieldsend
Board of Director, OCC, Oldsmobile Cutlass Coupes 73-77
http://members.aol.com/cutlascoup/index.html
Member : Oldsmobile Club of America
Member : Hurst/Olds Club of America
Member : Classic Chevy International

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 08:34:13 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: Loose Timing Chain

In a message dated 11/29/98
 12:<BR35:<BR56 AM Central Standard T, KarlAune@aol.com writes:> <<  Should be
change the chain.  Are the 305s known to stretch
>   this bad (car has 160,000 miles). >>
>  
>  Gets our vote.
>  Chain swap should be long overdue.
>  
>  Especially if not done previously.
>  
>  SOM

Karl,

Help me understand what is going on here.

Timing (ignition) became advanced. No indication anywhere that valve timing
has changed. Didn't mention any power loss, backfiring, etc.

Why wouldn't we just readjust the ignition timing and see if the problem is
fixed? Certainly is easier than removing all that clutter from the front of
the car to get at the timing chain. A ten-minute job might do the trick or
prove that the longer job is necessary.

On the other hand, it really makes one feel virtuous to go so far into the
innards and most engines seem to run better with new timing chains even if the
old one was OK. Like a good car wash improves everything. <VBG>

OK,  what am I missing?

Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 08:43:39 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: 1976 455 - L77?

Igor,
    I would answer this one if I could but I am not 100% certain what engine
options were available for '76 and which one you have.  My '73 455 is an
L-74.  Looking at the Mondello Tech Manual there is an L-74,75,and 77 for
1973.  1974 list L-75,76 and W-30.  1975 and 1976 are not listed.  Your best
bet is to send and e-Mail or call Joe Mondello to get accurate info.
Another more costly alternative is to buy(or maybe you could borrow and it
would be free) a 1976 shop manual and simply look it up.  You third
alternative is to simply pick a designation based on the spec's of your
motor and go with it.  But the last alternative can be a little cheesy if
someone comes up to you and says 'They didn't make W-30's in 1981."  Lastly,
due me a favor: don't put that LS6 in your Olds sell it to me for my Chevy!

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
>
>Hi.  I would like to build a BB Chevy motor for my Cutlass.  I was thinking
>about a LS6 speck. 454 Rat.  HA HA.  Got your attention.  Anyway, I
recently
>asked about a L77 455 engine option, but no-one replied.  I really need to
>know what the 455 option code was (L77 or L76 or W-something).  The reason
>being is that my '81 Delta has its primer applied now, and
>basecoat/clearcoat will be coming soon.  (next few days or so).  Since I
>will stripe this car, I would also like to (maybe, depends on how it looks)
>paint a engine code on the side fender, like L-77 (if that is what it is).
>I don't want to be advertising what motor I have in there, but by the
engine
>code, only a few individuals will know what it is.  And if they do know
what
>the code stands for, they deserve to know what the motor is.  SO WHAT IS
THE
>CODE FOR  A '76 455 from a Delta 88 Royal, or where can I find this code.
>My motor is modified '76 with high CR., ported heads, different cam, etc..,
>but I would still like the original code.  I don't have a Cutlass and I
>would not waste my time on a BB Chev.  But, LS6 is a good example.  Almost
>any gearhead knows what LS6 Chevells were all about.  It did catch
>everyone's attention, I am sure.
>
>Igor Todorovic
>
>1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
>
>------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 08:42:23 -0500
From: Todd <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Dashboard Chrome

Scott,
    Something that I did on an older Ford truck that I had was to get a silver
paint marker, and just go over the top of all the raised chrome surfaces - it's
not as bright as the original chrome, but if you do the whole thing it does 
look
MUCH better than having all the spots with no chrome...
Just a thought...
Todd Daenzer


CPEARLPARK@aol.com wrote:

> Can anyone help with suggestions of "chrome-like" substances to re-do parts 
of
> my 71 dash? After so much cleaning, the chrome is gone from the pseudo A/C
> vent, the fresh air vents, the bezel around the shift indicator (now just 
gray
> plastic), etc...
> Thanks,
> Scott

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 08:42:43 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: 47 Olds and some questions

To the list:

Below is an email I sent to Joe P. but maybe he is away for the weekend, so
I'm sending it to everyone, hoping to get some answers.

<<Start of email to Joe>>
Joe,

You gave me some good info a couple of months ago about a pending project to
sub out a 47 Olds. I have located a subject car, and it's already subbed out
(Nova...yeccch). It is set up for a Bowtie 350 and auto tranny. It has a 61
Impala rear end which is too wide. So, I have a couple of questions that I
hope you'll be willing to answer for me.

First, is there a website that shows the factory rear track dimension for this
series Olds? then, is there some location where I can go to pick out a proper
Olds rear end to match that track?

Second, the car has no engine/tranny. I COULD just use Chevy (yeccch again) to
get it going in the shortest time, but I'm wondering if there is a proper Olds
power train that fits the same mounts as the Chevy SB? Or, is there an easy
conversion to one of the (preferably larger) Olds power packages? It has Chevy
power steering (and brakes) already installed, but I'm guessing that the ps
pump would be no problem to mount on an Olds engine.

I'm interested in this base car, but I sure would like to keep it all Olds
except for the subframe and ps/pb that is already in there. Heck, I'd be
willing to change out the ps/pb as well, I suppose.

Thanks in advance.

Don Carron
Rockford TN

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 08:05:45 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
Subject: Re: list

Istill belong to that list as well as this one and noone is ever there so
dont bother I never recieve anything from there...KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, November 29, 1998 12:14 AM
Subject: Re: list


>At 01:02 AM 11/29/98 -0500, you wrote:
>>can't seem to find it anywhere.......anybody got the link or the addess or
>the
>>name of the list out there for "older" GM stuff
>>
>>muchos grass-e-ass
>it's name is gm-restotech.
>Unfortunatly I've also lost the address. :(
>still searching for it though
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 09:34:08 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Dashboard Chrome

>Can anyone help with suggestions of "chrome-like" substances to re-do parts
of
>my 71 dash?

Suggestions here have been either a chrome paint pen or chrome adhesive
foil, both available from hobby shops.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 09:47:25 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: 455 codes

>Well, I seemed to have found an answer to my question.  The 455 option was
>L78 code (still not sure).

Igor, whatever code was valid for 76, it wasn't available for 81
anyway.....why not just paint a big ol' 455 on there?

Just a thought..

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 09:56:00 -0500
From: Bob Dale <bctad5@toolcity.net>
Subject: Re: Loose Timing Chain

Igor T. '81 DRB 455 wrote:

> I have good news, and good news.  The first good news is that I
> convinced my
> friend to not get a 400 CHEVY, but rather build a 403 OLDS.  The
> second good
> news is that his 305 is running like crap.  Timing seems to be out
> (went out
> pretty rapidly) and it is pinging.  Since this car is his ONLY
> transportation and the 403 won't be done for about a year, we need to
> do
> something quick.  Should be change the chain.  Are the 305s known to
> stretch
> this bad (car has 160,000 miles).  What else could it be.  Igor.

   I`d probably check the distibutor first and hope that was the
problem. Would`nt be too happy if I changed the gear and chain to find
out I needed to do distibutor but at 160k gear and chain are likely
candidates for replacement. Just a thought.
  Bob

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 09:24:39 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 455 codes

>Igor, whatever code was valid for 76, it wasn't available for
81>anyway.....why not just paint a big ol' 455 on there?

I just don't want to be too advertising.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 12:22:07 EST
From: MFATZII@aol.com
Subject: reason for list info req.

     I just put a hundred dollar dry up kit on my tranny (the 56) trying to
fix some leaks.  I now have no tranny leaks but I still have some oil
problems.  I have replaced the valve cover gaskets, tightened the pan, and
power washed the whole thing.  The problem is this,  there is a blow-by tube
(thats what I call it) the shop manual says it is a crank case ventilation
tube.  Anyway there is too much oil venting under the car.                    
     When I park the car, the oil finishes draining from the tube and makes a
pretty sizable mess.  There are a couple other oil leaks too and I am on my
way outside to put the car up again and hunt them down.  My question is this,
can I do away with the tube?  It goes from the upper rear of the engine  to
lower than the lowest point of the exhaust under the car.  It exhausts air
that it gets from the oil fill cap/breather from atop the fill tube.  
     I realize that the manufacturer wouldn't go to the trouble of installing
this feature if they didn't feel it was important, but what a pain.....maybe
something is wrong internally.......
     I also understand that damn near all the cars talked about on this list
are newer than mine and that experience with this situation is probably hard
to come by. --BUT-- I have faith in the vast knowledge of fellow gearheads !
I was hoping I could just blank off the exit port.......


Ryan (MFatzII@aol.com)
Lincoln,  Nebraska
<<Turn it on, Wind it up, Blow it out, OLDS-MO-BILE>>

56 88 4dr Sedan  (Project Rocket) 
<A HREF="http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/wieders2/">Click here</A>
83 Cutlass Supreme Brougham 307(RIP)
85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham V-6(girlfriend's)
89 Chevy Beretta CL (Ryan's  a.k.a   pool shark)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 12:37:45 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: reason for list info req.

This pipe is the crankcase vent, and no, you cannot just block it off.
Pressure inside the engine would build and find a way to vent elsewhere.
Could be front crank seal, could be rear main, could be valve covers, could
be everywhere.  But that vent pipe is not supposed to drip oil, either.  It
is supposed to have provisions such that pressure is evacuated, but not oil.
It is held on by one center bolt.  Remove it (See how easy it is to say?)
and inspect.  There may be something obvious.  It's been a while since I saw
the configuration, so I don't remember with greater specificity.  I do have
a factory manual at the shop.  I'll look in it tomorrow when we re-open.
Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 12:44:20 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: list

How old is the "old stuff"?  If you guys come up with an address, would you
post it to the list, please?  One of my buds has a '54 Super 88 convertible,
and another has a '56 88 hardtop.  There's yet another guy here who has a
'56 Starfire.  Thanks.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, November 29, 1998 1:14 AM
Subject: Re: list


>At 01:02 AM 11/29/98 -0500, you wrote:
>>can't seem to find it anywhere.......anybody got the link or the addess or
>the
>>name of the list out there for "older" GM stuff
>>
>>muchos grass-e-ass
>it's name is gm-restotech.
>Unfortunatly I've also lost the address. :(
>still searching for it though
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 13:04:28 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: reason for list info req.

Have you checked cylinder compression? Sounds like a sizable amount of
cylinder compression is blowing by the piston rings and than exiting this
vent tube. Bringing along a sizable amount of oil suspended fumes. he oil
would condense within the cooler exterior vent tube and exit as you stated,
in a puddle.

Just my .02¢

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

ICQ# 5209322 = "CC-IROC-SS"
Personal ICQ Communication Center:
http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322

Custom Conversion Proto-type:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
Project Questions To:
mailto:cc-iroc-ss@CC-IROC-SS.com

The CC-IROC-SS Project Delphi Forum:
http://forums.delphi.com/m/main.asp?sigdir=CC_IROC_SS

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of MFATZII@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, November 29, 1998 12:22 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: reason for list info req.


     I just put a hundred dollar dry up kit on my tranny (the 56) trying to
fix some leaks.  I now have no tranny leaks but I still have some oil
problems.  I have replaced the valve cover gaskets, tightened the pan, and
power washed the whole thing.  The problem is this,  there is a blow-by tube
(thats what I call it) the shop manual says it is a crank case ventilation
tube.  Anyway there is too much oil venting under the car.
     When I park the car, the oil finishes draining from the tube and makes
a
pretty sizable mess.  There are a couple other oil leaks too and I am on my
way outside to put the car up again and hunt them down.  My question is
this,
can I do away with the tube?  It goes from the upper rear of the engine  to
lower than the lowest point of the exhaust under the car.  It exhausts air
that it gets from the oil fill cap/breather from atop the fill tube.
     I realize that the manufacturer wouldn't go to the trouble of
installing
this feature if they didn't feel it was important, but what a pain.....maybe
something is wrong internally.......
     I also understand that damn near all the cars talked about on this list
are newer than mine and that experience with this situation is probably hard
to come by. --BUT-- I have faith in the vast knowledge of fellow gearheads !
I was hoping I could just blank off the exit port.......


Ryan (MFatzII@aol.com)
Lincoln,  Nebraska
<<Turn it on, Wind it up, Blow it out, OLDS-MO-BILE>>

56 88 4dr Sedan  (Project Rocket)
<A HREF="http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/wieders2/">Click
here</A>
83 Cutlass Supreme Brougham 307(RIP)
85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham V-6(girlfriend's)
89 Chevy Beretta CL (Ryan's  a.k.a   pool shark)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 13:11:30 EST
From: W451973@aol.com
Subject: Re: 73-77 list and 2-questions

welcome, steve. its good to see someone else who likes 73s as much as i do.
dennis
w451973
73 hurstolds

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 10:59:21 -0500
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: horn screwing up on '71 cutlass

My horn just went screwy.  If I push the horn button, I can clearly
hear the relay clicking (I don't remember that from before) and just
the high pitch horn goes off, not the low one.  and it doesn't sound
clear either, more like it's dying.  Sounds like a sick Honda.

The horn relay (on the driver's side fender) is the original one and
looks fairly rusty.  I'm I took the three wires off the bottom and put
some WD-40 on them.  Didn't help.  I wiggled one of the wires and it
stopped the horn from making any noise.

What should I suspect/test/look at first?  the relay, or the horns
themselves?  (I hope not, I don't feel like pulling the grills out)

thanks,
greg

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 11:46:41 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: LS6 454 Cutlass

At 02:30 AM 11/29/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Well, I seemed to have found an answer to my question.  The 455 option was
>L78 code (still not sure).  DOES ANYONE KNOW.  I don't want to paint that on
>my fender and then it turns out to be a 350 or some Chevy.  Thanks.
>

 If the engine hasn't been messed with there should a 2 letter code on the
oil fill pipe
(a sicker and in some cases stamped into it). this isn't the option code
your looking for 
BUT if you don't find that this might do. :)

"UX" is a 74 455 (the latest i can find.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 14:09:43 -0600
From: Tom Williams <tjwilli@megavision.com>
Subject: Re: LS6 454 Cutlass

Igor T. '81 DRB 455 wrote:
> 
> Well, I seemed to have found an answer to my question.  The 455 option was > 
L78 code (still not sure). (snip)

I would be careful on painting this number on the side of  your
Oldsmobile.
The L-78 was also the code for the 375hp 396 chevy motor as opposed to
there 325hp or 350hp 396 motors in the late 60's and early 70's.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 15:15:01 -0500
From: "Robert Collins" <collins@peterboro.net>
Subject: [none]

subscribe collins@peterboro.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 15:20:50 -0200
From: BRIAN SHANKLE <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: fast idle

That sounds much easier than I thought, thanks!
Brian.

mbloomer wrote:
> 
> >Yup, but only by ear and only by a couple of degrees.  I went out and
> >bought a $40 timing light only to get home and realize that someone had
> >ever so lovingly broken off the plastic timing mark indicator.  I have
> >yet to get another one and I strongly hesitate to touch the timing again
> >until I can be sure that it will be set right, since it is running well
> >as it is
> 
> If you have an adjustable timing light (the most accurate) all you have to
> do
> is to rig up a temporary pointer.  Pull the #1 spark plug and have a friend
> bump the motor over while you hold your finger over the spark plug hole.
> When the motor blows your finger off the hole you know its on the comp.
> stroke.  Now you have to find TDC.  Take a thin screwdriver and a flashlight
> and look down the hole and have your friend turn the motor by hand.  Turn
> the motor both ways until you've found TDC (piston at highest travel).  When
> you look at the crank wherever the timing mark is on the balancer just
> needs a pointer now.  You can make a temporary pointer out of a piece of
> wire (paper clip?) and bend it so you can stick it under a bolt head and it
> will lign up with the mark on the balancer.  You now have true TDC.  All you
> have to do now is to set the timing to 0 degrees using the knob on the
> back of the timing light and read the advance off of it.  If you didn't buy
> an
> adjustable timing light I highly suggest exchanging it.  They are very
> useful
> and a necessity for checking dist. curve, total timing, etc.  You may wish
> down the road that you did.
> 
> Mike B
> mbloomer@gateway.net
> ICQ# 19113713
> 72 Cutlass S (RIP)
> 68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 15:22:57 -0500
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: 67 Vista Cruiser

Check out BIll LaPierre's site at www.marketspot.com/442home.asp, or Jim
Chermack, chermack@exis.net  They both have a lot of 67 Cutlass stuff..

Art

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 15:22:23 -0200
From: BRIAN SHANKLE <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: fast idle

I did notice the pinging in high gear under a load, and I use premium
gas at all times.  Funny thing is, I never heard it until I got this
carb in.  I will set the timing now, and see what happens.
Brian

Lou Biggs wrote:
> 
> Brian,
> You can keep bumping it up until you start to hear "pinging", ONLY 2 or 3
> pings about 30 mph in high gear, full throttle, or with automatic, as much
> throttle you can use before hitting "kickdown gear", as long as you know
> what total advance is built into distr. Don't want to go above 40 to 42
> degrees total. if you hear "pinging" at any other time, Back it down. This
> is for average cars, not a "hemi, or a 14 to 1 comp. ratio, or damn sure,
> not nitrous.
> Lou.
> ----------
> > From: BRIAN SHANKLE <cshankle@home.com>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Re: fast idle
> > Date: Saturday, November 28, 1998 11:26 AM
> >
> > Yup, but only by ear and only by a couple of degrees.  I went out and
> > bought a $40 timing light only to get home and realize that someone had
> > ever so lovingly broken off the plastic timing mark indicator.  I have
> > yet to get another one and I strongly hesitate to touch the timing again
> > until I can be sure that it will be set right, since it is running well
> > as it is.  I have a feeling that it would be better and probably get
> > better mileage if it were set right, and who's to say that it was right
> > when I got the car?  It seems from the work that I have done on the car
> > thus far that it never was kept in the best condition and whoever worked
> > on it before me was not so much car illiterate, but he certainly didn't
> > do things the right way.
> > Brian.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 16:57:06 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Posi, necessary for High speed power?

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Posi, necessary for High speed power?

Here is a general question that pertains to my Olds.  I have contemplated
whether or not I should consider an anti-spin(posi) differential.  After
learning the joys of posi for off-the-line acceleration in my '63 Chevy, is
it real necessary for high speed acceleration?  Considering my car has what
I believe to be a 2.56 rear(and I want to keep it that way for cruising
speeds!) would a posi even be necessary considering I am after passing power
and not off-the-line launching power?

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 15:09:31 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Loose Timing Chain

Igor
These motors during the late 70's and early 80's had a cam gear that was
coated in nylon over the teeth.  Over time this nylon gets hard and starts
to chip away.  This causes the chain to get loose and have seen one case
where as the motor turned over it would catch the cam gear, turn it a
little,
and slip again.  In the process of trying to get it started the guy bent all
but
about 3 valves.  If this is the case there may be chunks of nylon all in the
oil pan.  Don't worry about pulling the pan as the smaller chunks will come
out when you change the oil and the larger ones won't be able to get past
the pickup screen.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>I have good news, and good news.  The first good news is that I convinced
my
>friend to not get a 400 CHEVY, but rather build a 403 OLDS.  The second
good
>news is that his 305 is running like crap.  Timing seems to be out (went
out
>pretty rapidly) and it is pinging.  Since this car is his ONLY
>transportation and the 403 won't be done for about a year, we need to do
>something quick.  Should be change the chain.  Are the 305s known to
stretch
>this bad (car has 160,000 miles).  What else could it be.  Igor.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 16:12:30 -0500
From: "W-MACHINES" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: Re: outrageous web site!!/'73 info wanted

Thanks for the kudos, Harry.  You come from a very impressive Oldsmobile
family!  Say high to your dad for me.  Think he'd adopt me?
The Terry that you're referring to must be my good friend Terry Shanks. 
Yes, his page is awsome!
I'm also copying this reply to the  "Olds List" to get an answer to your
'73 production numbers.  Really nice '73 you have.
Hey, guys, what are the numbers?

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com   
Centennial Feature at http://www.en.com/users/wmachine/wm.html
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
> To: wmachine@en.com
> Subject: outrageous web site!!!
> Date: Saturday, November 28, 1998 9:13 PM
> 
>    Yours and  another guy named Terrys web pages are awsome and I have
been to
> hundreds. You seem to have alot of production number info and I would
love to
> know if you know how many 73 cutlass S 455/4spd cars were made . Helen
Early
> was unable to help. Click here to few info and pics of my very rare car 
> <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/MAGSURV/index.html">HARRYS 73 OLDS
CUTLASS</A>
> . Other cars in my total family fleet are...65 442 bought new and still
has
> orig target red paint and is perfect(my dads car Harry Mager N.J.) 67 442
> W-30( dads car), was mine back in highschool. 66 starfire w/4spd. (dads
car).
> He keeps all of his , I have had 46 musclecars through the years. Love
them
> all just dont have enough money to keep them all. Your cars are
unbelievable!
> Hopefully you can lead me in right direction to find out more info on my
73.
> Thanks  Harry Mager Jr. N.J.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 16:42:02 -0500
From: Bob Dale <bctad5@toolcity.net>
Subject: Re: reason for list info req.

MFATZII@aol.com wrote:

>      I just put a hundred dollar dry up kit on my tranny (the 56)
> trying to
> fix some leaks.  I now have no tranny leaks but I still have some oil
> problems.  I have replaced the valve cover gaskets, tightened the pan,
> and
> power washed the whole thing.  The problem is this,  there is a
> blow-by tube
> (thats what I call it) the shop manual says it is a crank case
> ventilation
> tube.  Anyway there is too much oil venting under the car.
>      When I park the car, the oil finishes draining from the tube and
> makes a
> pretty sizable mess.  There are a couple other oil leaks too and I am
> on my
> way outside to put the car up again and hunt them down.  My question
> is this,
> can I do away with the tube?  It goes from the upper rear of the
> engine  to
> lower than the lowest point of the exhaust under the car.  It exhausts
> air
> that it gets from the oil fill cap/breather from atop the fill tube.
>      I realize that the manufacturer wouldn't go to the trouble of
> installing
> this feature if they didn't feel it was important, but what a
> pain.....maybe
> something is wrong internally.......
>      I also understand that damn near all the cars talked about on
> this list
> are newer than mine and that experience with this situation is
> probably hard
> to come by. --BUT-- I have faith in the vast knowledge of fellow
> gearheads !
> I was hoping I could just blank off the exit port.......
>
> Ryan (MFatzII@aol.com)
> Lincoln,  Nebraska
> <<Turn it on, Wind it up, Blow it out, OLDS-MO-BILE>>
>
> 56 88 4dr Sedan  (Project Rocket)
> <A HREF="http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/wieders2/">Click
> here</A>
> 83 Cutlass Supreme Brougham 307(RIP)
> 85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham V-6(girlfriend's)
> 89 Chevy Beretta CL (Ryan's  a.k.a   pool shark)

   Ryan,
   I`d be interested to hear what others on the list say about your
problem but my first question would be how much blue smoke ya gettin out
the exaust? Second question would be has anyone been messin with your
valve lash adjustment? Sounds like you`re gettin more crankcase pressure
than ya otta. Worn rings or exaust valve or valves not closing
completely are two possibles. What say folks? B.D.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 17:35:51 EST
From: Mr57olds@aol.com
Subject: Re: reason for list info req.

In a message dated 98-11-29 12:23:24 EST, you write:

<< My question is this,
 can I do away with the tube?  It goes from the upper rear of the engine  to
 lower than the lowest point of the exhaust under the car.  It exhausts air
 that it gets from the oil fill cap/breather from atop the fill tube.   >>
How  much oil does it drip???  Some is pretty typical of these cars.    You
can do away with "Road draft tube"  if you install a PCV  and run it to a
vacumn source. These cars all leaked some oil even when new.   Another
possible source of oil leak is the Rear Main Seal.   These also frequently
leak.   Another source is Oil Filter Housing.   I just this AM replaced the
seal on bolt that runs through the housing. 
Bruce
Mr57olds
'54 88 sedan
'57 S88 holiday sedan   

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 11:24:08
From: <webpromos@mailexcite.com>
Subject: ADV: We guarantee you a spot in the top ten!

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 15:11:11 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: 67 Vista Cruiser

At 03:22 PM 11/29/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Check out BIll LaPierre's site at www.marketspot.com/442home.asp, or Jim
>Chermack, chermack@exis.net  They both have a lot of 67 Cutlass stuff..
>
>Art

beware about this guy. One order I made from him got shipped to a different 
address and I had to pay extra shipping to get it. I just happened to get 
shipped to a friend of his that would deliver it to me for extra money.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 18:13:32 EST
From: CCRR12@aol.com
Subject: Re: reason for list info req.

In a message dated 11/29/98 4:38:31 PM Central Standard Time, Mr57olds@aol.com
writes:

<< How  much oil does it drip???  Some is pretty typical of these cars.    You
 can do away with "Road draft tube"  if you install a PCV  and run it to a
 vacumn source. These cars all leaked some oil even when new.   Another
 possible source of oil leak is the Rear Main Seal.   These also frequently
 leak.   Another source is Oil Filter Housing.   I just this AM replaced the
 seal on bolt that runs through the housing. 
 Bruce
 Mr57olds >>

Ryan,
I would concur with Bruce on this one. If you are truly getting blow-by there
would be a gray oil vapor cloud following you around. At idle you would see
little puffs of oil vapor coming from the tube. Unfortunately I speak from
experience on this one.

You might pull off the tube and flush out the canister. It may be restricted
causing it to accumulate more oil than usual. Should have two bolts underneath
to back of block, then pull from connection on the back of the upper block
area. 

Just an afterthought. Have you had this engine apart, with the intake and
valley tray removed. If so, did you clean and replace the crankcase breather
filter? 

Good Luck,
Randy in Oklahoma
57 88 J2

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 18:56:34 EST
From: MFATZII@aol.com
Subject: Re: reason for list info req.

In a message dated 11/29/98 12:10:45 PM Central Standard Time,
gjcouse@francomm.com writes:

<< Have you checked cylinder compression? Sounds like a sizable amount of
 cylinder compression is blowing by the piston rings and than exiting this
 vent tube. >>


I like all the possabilities that are out there, but I was hoping to rule out
the ring 
problem since the motor only has abot 650 mile on a rebuild (including new
rings)


Ryan

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 18:58:26 EST
From: MFATZII@aol.com
Subject: Re: reason for list info req.

In a message dated 11/29/98 3:46:33 PM Central Standard Time,
bctad5@toolcity.net writes:

<< Worn rings or exaust valve or valves not closing
 completely are two possibles. What say folks? B.D.
  >>


Valves and seats were ground when the motor was rebuilt also....


Ryan

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 19:04:37 EST
From: MFATZII@aol.com
Subject: Re: reason for list info req.

In a message dated 11/29/98 5:17:02 PM Central Standard Time, CCRR12@aol.com
writes:

<< Ryan,
 I would concur with Bruce on this one. If you are truly getting blow-by there
 would be a gray oil vapor cloud following you around. At idle you would see
 little puffs of oil vapor coming from the tube. Unfortunately I speak from
 experience on this one.
 
 You might pull off the tube and flush out the canister. It may be restricted
 causing it to accumulate more oil than usual. Should have two bolts
underneath
 to back of block, then pull from connection on the back of the upper block
 area. 
 
 Just an afterthought. Have you had this engine apart, with the intake and
 valley tray removed. If so, did you clean and replace the crankcase breather
 filter?  >>


I guess I should have read all posts on this sub. before sending the last two
reply's.  I changed the intake manifolds in the spring from a 2bbl to a 4bbl
setup and the valley pan stayed put due to the fact that the valley pan and
the intake gaskets were seperate pieces.  When I was replacing the tranny this
weekend I did take the crank case breather tube off and then put it back again
(after a visual inspection) not knowing what to look for.  Another visual
observation is that when I shut off the motor I do see smoke or vapor
exhausting from the oil fill/breather cap.  What is this all about? normal?


Ryan

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1631
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