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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1636


oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, December 1 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1636



Re: Olds 350 and High RPM's
Yellow lights (was: DRL's)
1969 442 Convert
Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: 1969 442 Convert
K & N X Stream air filter tops 
Re: stuck gages
Olds Oil Filters
Re: Yellow lights (was: DRL's)
Re: Noise and vibration on 72 Supreme
Hey 73 Omega guy
bb efi
Re: Hey 73 Omega guy
Re: bb efi
Re: Rear End
Re: Power Bucket Installation on a '70 Cutlass.
Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....
Re: 1952 option of car-watch
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....
Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....
Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....
Re: Olds Oil Filters
Re: Rearend ratios
Re: Cost for paint/body-job?
Re: Rearend ratios
Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....
Re: Rearend ratios
Re: Rearend ratios
MOTION PERFORMANCE OLDS.
Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....
Re: Rearend ratios
Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....
Re: bb efi
Re: Alternator output too high?
RE: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....
RE: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....
Pwr Locks
Re: Olds Oil Filters
Advance Timing Light
Re: Olds Oil Filters
Re: Olds Oil Filters
Re: Olds Oil Filters
Re: Olds Oil Filters
RE: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....
'70 Core Support / Grille
Omega SX found
455 Engine Date Code
Re: 455 Engine Date Code
Re: Alternator output too high?
Re: Rearend ratios
Re: Olds Rod Lengths???
Re: Rearend ratios
Re: Rearend ratios
Re: Olds 350 and High RPM's
Re: 455 Engine Date Code
Re: Olds Oil Filters
Exhaust Manifold Woes
about your site
Re: Exhaust Manifold Woes

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 06:20:20 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Olds 350 and High RPM's

Just a question/thought on this note. I have a 1970 Olds 350 in my 69
Cutlass. The engine has a completely rebuilt quad on it, the Edelbrock
performer aluminum intake, the Edelbrock performer cam, hydraulic
lifters, stock heads, stock pistons, Edelbrock dual timing chain.
Anyways, when I had my stock intake on there the engine would rev to 5
grand and then it would just stop. It was almost like a governer
kicked in. Since I replaced the intake, I have been able to kick up
the R's pretty good. I know that it will rev to 6 grand without a
problem. My question is this. How do you find out what your redline
R's should be? I mean, I know that if I were to keep my foot on the
throttle, that engine would put out at least 6500...and that's with
stock heads! When the engine goes back in, I am going to have the
Edelbrock valve springs and the heads will be ported/polished/etc/etc.
Then I will also be squeezing headers on it. (Still unsure on how they
will fit, but that subject has been beaten to death.) Anyways, how do
you go about finding your redline? Do I just hold it WOT until the
lifters float and then check tach or what?

Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 09:19:33 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Yellow lights (was: DRL's)

<snip detailed discussion of the subtle differences in amber parking lamps>
_________

Boy, Andy, I thought I was the only one anal enough to be into this level
of detail   ;-)

===============

This doesn't have much to do with this subject but I remember all those
blazing lights and chrome it had up front...  :-)

- -- Andy
__________

Actuall, that's sort of the classic "artsy" car photo setup - dusk, parking
lights on, road wet...   I agree it usually looks very cool.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 09:29:31 -0500
From: "David Booker" <dbooker@mindspring.com>
Subject: 1969 442 Convert

Greetings!

Having received help from several of you over the past weeks (notably Joe) I
thought I'd post a few pics of our 442.  The pics are at:

 http://www.remaxhq.com/dbooker/442/442.htm

We have had our '69 442 for about a year. Found it in Columbus, GA. 2nd
owner. Absolutely complete - all trim and accessories present. Interior is
original and almost perfect. Trunk is immaculate - spare has never been on
the road. The spare wheel is as new as it was in '69. (Wish I had thought to
take a pic of
the trunk. I'll post one soon.)

Biggest expense was body work - no rust, just a few dings - and paint. New
white convertible top. Engine is original with 85,000. Rebuilt the
Rochester, new hoses, belts and ignition parts. Will replace some fuel lines
this
weekend. Water pump sounds suspicious. Should have done that when the belts
were off. Oh well.

Added new mufflers. Need pipes this Spring. She sits a little low, so
springs are in the plan as well.  Sits so low I snagged the parking brake
cable and ripped the whole mess out. More work to fix than you would think.

Clock and tach need attention. Clock works intermittently and tach hangs up
at 3500. All lenses need polishing and faces need cleaning. Good work for
the winter.

We really love it, but I can't drive it without someone wanting to buy it! 
Another grand or two and I might be tempted. 

Weather down here has been incredible for the past month. 75 today and the
top hasn't been up in weeks!

David Booker
Comstock Net Services, Inc.
Atlanta, GA
770-887-3261

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 09:29:08 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....

Only reason I didn't want to do that is because of my
W-27 rear end cover.  But Dick Miller just informed me that they are now
making a W-27 cover for 12 bolt chevys now.
__________

Actually, Bob Handren did this a few years ago.  Put a Type-C 12-bolt in
his 67 and got a repro W-27 cover without the holes drilled in it.  He
drilled them himself using a gasket as a pattern and it works great.

Also, if you want to further the W-27 look (without the strength problems
of having an aluminum center section) get the center section of the axle
housing flame sprayed with aluminum.  It will look just like a real
aluminum axle housing (just don't get near it with a magnet), but with the
strength of iron.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 09:23:50 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

Knowing the Paddock it is probably a GTO shifter being sold as a hurst olds
shifter just so they can save shelf space and get more mileage from the
same
(basically) part but dont believe this will work it may bolt in but the
console is different...KK
__________

Well, I can't say that I've seen one in person, but from the photos it
looks like a correct repro of the Olds dual gate.  The difference is that
the GTO dual gates have a straight stick, while the Olds dual gates have a
"bent" stick.  I'm sure Hurst used  the same mechanism originally anyway,
so the only real difference should be the stick and the top plate.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 09:43:37 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 1969 442 Convert

Dave,

Beautiful looking car.  Nicely done.  I hope my 69 comes out half as good.

=============

...Clock and tach need attention. Clock works intermittently and tach hangs
up
at 3500...
__________

This is exactly the problem with the Tic-Toc-Tach in my 70.  I haven't had
it out yet to look at it, but it hangs up whenever the needle is straight
up, coming from either direction.  I either need to tromp on the gas to
break it free (and you all know how I _hate_ to have to do that...), or I
have to tap on the lens to shake it loose.  Anyone have any experience with
this?

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 09:07:16 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: K & N X Stream air filter tops 

>Our X-Stream tops will only be available in 9", 11" and 14" 
diameters.         

Received the above message from K & N. Thought I'd try one on my Olds, but 
no deal.

roger        

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 09:57:02 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: stuck gages

In a message dated 12/1/98
 8:<BR51:<BR27 AM Central Standard Tim, Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM writes:> I
>  have to tap on the lens to shake it loose.  Anyone have any experience with
>  this?

Standard practice, Joe.

I've seen them do that in *every* WWII aircraft movie ever cut. Now I just do
it to all gages every time I get in a car :-)

Cheers/carron

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 09:09:48 -0600
From: "Drusch, Wayne (Human Resources & Risk Mgmt)" 
<wayne_drusch@co.harris.tx.us>
Subject: Olds Oil Filters

As stated the Fram PF 11 filter will work on the Olds. Holds more oil,
more filtering surface  and has a higher pressure internal bypass relief
valve. If you look at the list of cars it will fit listed on the box, it
is mostly american motors and such but there is a listing for a mid-60's
Olds if I remember right. I have been using these on my stock 71 350 for
several years with no problem.

E. Wayne Drusch
71 Cutlass Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 07:11:48 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Yellow lights (was: DRL's)

> <snip detailed discussion of the subtle differences in amber parking 
> lamps>
>
> Boy, Andy, I thought I was the only one anal enough to be into this 
> level of detail   ;-)

Actually that was just a summary. In the coming weeks I'll be posting 
JPGs of the engineering drawings to the list (pause here while Greg 
B. spews his coffee all over the keyboard), and beginning a six-part 
series on the memoirs of workers on the light bulb assembly line, 
including their reminiscences of the Tint Wars, the Installation 
Instructions Debate ("Push and twist" vs. "Push and turn"), and the 
tragic incident involving the goat.

BTW, you can still get the 1157NA anywhere, but they tend to cost a 
_lot_ more than the painted ones... sometimes twice as much.

> Actually, that's sort of the classic "artsy" car photo setup - dusk,
> parking lights on, road wet...   I agree it usually looks very cool.

Oh, yeah, don't forget to turn the front wheels _towards_ the camera 
for '60's and '70's cars, or _away_ from the camera for '80's and up. 
:-)

- -- Andy


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 07:15:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Noise and vibration on 72 Supreme

- ---David Litke <dlitke@bewellnet.com> wrote:
>
  I
> have been fighting with a noise and vibration on my 72 Supreme for
quite a
> while.  The key symptoms are that the noise and vibration both
disapear
> when turning right, but get a little worse when turning left.  
  You can also
> feel the vibration through the steering wheel and accelerator pedal
more
> than through the body of the car.  
 
- ------------------------------------------------------
David,

I'm just pulling stuff outta the air here, but have you checked
tie-rod ends? I know that on my 86 H*nda, both outter tie-rod ends
were worn pretty good. (187,000 miles I guess it is understandable!) I
use to experience a vibration on the highway. Could feel it most in
the steering wheel and the accelerator pedal. Replacing them did help
a lot, but I still have this odd noise when I make a left handed turn.
It sounds like something rattling against something. I have looked at
everything and still can't figure that one out. 

Del

==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 10:22:58 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Hey 73 Omega guy

Could the new guy who was looking for headers for his '73 Omega submit
another message. I went and deleted it and didn't get your address. I have
a few questions.

Ed
The Omega Man

'74 Omega 455/4spd
'74 Omega 350/auto

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 07:21:02 -0800 (PST)
From: jalkara <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: bb efi

bds blowers have in teir possession all the nos stock of those fi
manifolds, for the right $ you can have a manifold or a complete efi with
hilborn style stacks, and be the coooooooleestt olds for miles around when
you pop the hood


47rocket98

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 09:32:14 -0600
From: Stephen <stephen@gatorgraphics.com>
Subject: Re: Hey 73 Omega guy

stephen@gatorgraphics.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 10:29:06 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: bb efi

bds blowers have in teir possession all the nos stock of those fi
manifolds, ...


47rocket98
_________

Are you saying that BDS now converts old-style mechanical FI units to EFI?
Any idea what they get for this?  I've got an old Algol big block Olds FI
setup (complete with caliope stacks) that I've wanted to convert for a long
time.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 09:31:36 -0600
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: Re: Rear End

Joe R Brockman wrote:
> 
> I was just wondering what kind of rear end I should put on my car.  I
> have a 66 F85 with a 330.  I have 3.23 on it now.  i was wondering if
> 4.10's would be to much.  Plus would I be better off just finding a rear
> end in a junk yard or putting in a new gear?  And how hard is it to just
> put in a new gear?  I'm only 17 and still learning, I have my dad and
> stuff, but he doesn't know to much about rear ends.  Any help would be
> usefull! Thanks.
> 
> joe b
> 66 F85
> 
> ___________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
> or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]


Joe,

Assuming it's a rebuilt engine that will not see extensive highway
miles, read over 2 hours one way, 4:10's will help alot.  I went from
2:73 to a 4:63 with a Ford 302.  4:63 is way too much gear, but the
acceleration difference was impressive.  Check out the FAQ on small
blocks and look into dropping that 330 forged crank into a 350 block. 
Cubes make a difference.  The gear will be easier and cost less.  YOu're
best bet is swapping a drum-to-drum rear end.  Check out your local Auto
Trader type magazine.  Also, make sure to get a posi unit.  It's a bitch
to spin your passanger side wheel and feel the car veer to one side
while the other guy waves goodbye. 

Currently I've got a 3:55 posi in my Olds, but may be dropping in a 3:73
posi I have in storage(It's an Olds 12 bolt). Even going to 3:55's will
make a noticeable difference as I had 3:08's before.

I've only set-up a Ford rear which is easy as the pumpkin can be set-up
outside of the rear axle.  If this is you're first time out and you
don't have someone familiar with the process to watch over you, I'd
strongly recommend swapping entire rears.



Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 11:06:31 EST
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Power Bucket Installation on a '70 Cutlass.

well , i have done this many times, and it is basically a bolt in job. the
tracks bolt right in, and the hole for the switch is already there in the
metal frame of the seat. the most difficult part will be cutting the hole in
the plastic piece that covers the switch.  if you can find one from an orig.
seat no cutting will be required.     steven, w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 08:07:01 PST
From: "Peter Vollemans" <rocket403@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....

>>(Sorry folks, the 8.5 10 bolt doesn't even compare to the 12 bolt 
chevy 


How does the 9" F*rd compare to the 12 bolt Ch*vy?






Peter Vollemans
86 Cutlass Supreme 307/200-R4


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 10:20:34 -0600
From: cdemps@lsumc.edu (Dempsey, Charles)
Subject: Re: 1952 option of car-watch

"Jesse paggen" <paggen@cloudnet.com> wrote:

> I have a origional car-watch is it impossible to find the steering wheel it
> originaly came in or am I better of selling this thing I found it in a barn
> It is like new only the face has a crack and a red arrow on it The thing
> has never been apart It works perfect I also do not know where to sell and
> if so how much also is this a common clock or not It has the planet symbol
> on it with the seconds hand going arround it It say's maar patent on it
> also made in switzerland  please help if can

It's a Maar Automatic Car Watch. I think that it uses the standard
steering wheel. I do know that it requires a special horn ring. The
watches are fairly common and the horn rings are somewhat rare. There
are a few horn rings about, but I haven't seen one offered for sale in
several years.

It's supposed to have a red arrow on the face.

Car watches show up on ebay from time to time, and there's one up now at 
<http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=45756329>.
Selling price has been as high as $200.00, but these days is usually in
the neighborhood of $50-$75 for ones in good condition.

I don't know if you can get a replacement crystal or not.

Good luck,
Charles

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 11:17:08 EST
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

In a message dated 98-11-30 18:39:05 EST, you write:

>
>The Paddock is selling Hurst/Olds Dual Gate shifters. Anyone seen these
>or had any experiences? They are asking $499 - the unit looks nice in
>the picture, even has the rocket on the upper right-hand corner.
>
>

a friend told me he bought one of these and there really nice, however i think
he said it didnt come with the cable?     if anyone is interested i have two
orig. 70 dual gates complete, and with or without consoles .  i had planned to
post these in a couple weeks after after i get caught up on some other chores.
please reply privately if interested in them.     steven,  w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 11:15:03 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....

How does the 9" F*rd compare to the 12 bolt Ch*vy?
_________

Well, the 9" has a, er, 9" ring gear, while the Chebby has an 8.875" ring
gear.  Advantage Ford, but not by much.  The one downside to the Ford is
it's separable "pumpkin".  This design requires the bearings on the carrier
to be cantilevered from the front part of the pumpkin, resulting in a less
stiff and less strong configuration than the integral 12-bolt design.  Is
this something you'd normally have a problem with?  Not unless you plan to
do a lot of very hard dragstrip launches with very sticky slicks.  The 9"
also has the advantage of being able to "quick change" the gears by
swapping the pumpkin, plus there are many, many aftermarket parts
available.  Yes, if you find the right 12-bolt housing it will bolt in to
your Olds, but these are becoming harder and harder to find, and the prices
are escalating accordingly.  The 9" housing can be custom made to fit an
Olds chassis, and the resulting price is not a lot more than for the
hard-to-find 12-bolt.  Bottom line is for most uses, the two are equivalent
in strength and price.  Personal choice will ultimately decide (like you'd
be hard pressed to put a W-27 cover on a 9" housing).

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 11:25:06 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....

Well I'm sure the Ford guy would say the 9" came straight from Jesus, but
I'm not a Ford guy. As far as housing strength, I'd have to vote Chevy. As
far as axle strength I'd have to say an F-word. The 12 bolts weakest link
is the c-clips that hold the axles in. Put the c-clip eliminator kit on a
12 bolt Chevy and you'll have to add a new passage to the Bible.


Ed
The Omega Man

'74 Omega 455/4spd 12bolt 4:10




At 08:07 AM 12/1/98 PST, you wrote:
>>>(Sorry folks, the 8.5 10 bolt doesn't even compare to the 12 bolt 
>chevy 
>
>
>How does the 9" F*rd compare to the 12 bolt Ch*vy?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>Peter Vollemans
>86 Cutlass Supreme 307/200-R4
>
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 11:34:27 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....

According to Hot Rod magazine it does.

- -----Original Message-----

>(Sorry folks, the 8.5 10 bolt doesn't even compare to the 12 bolt 
>chevy 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 08:39:29 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Olds Oil Filters

At 09:09 AM 12/1/98 -0600, you wrote:
>As stated the Fram PF 11 filter will work on the Olds. Holds more oil,
>more filtering surface  and has a higher pressure internal bypass relief
>valve. If you look at the list of cars it will fit listed on the box, it
>is mostly american motors and such but there is a listing for a mid-60's
>Olds if I remember right. I have been using these on my stock 71 350 for
>several years with no problem.

I'm not sure of the exact year Olds switched but later V8's use a smaller
diameter filter

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 11:45:25 EST
From: Jon442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rearend ratios

In a message dated 12/1/98 7:41:48 AM Central Standard Time, comid@jellico.com
writes:

<< 
 >If your going to be doing alot of highway driving, I'd recomend a ratio
 >between 3:42 to 3:73. Anything steeper and you'll be hating life on the
 >highway. With the torque of the 455 the 3:42 should be the best all around
 >gear. >>

With 26.5 diameter tires, there is only about 300 RPM difference at 60 mph
between 3.42 and 3.73 gears. 

Jon

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 08:56:23 -0800 (PST)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Cost for paint/body-job?

Hey George,
        I just got my 1970 Cutlass from the body shop last tuesday. 
The paint/bodywork cost me $2280, and the parts added around $900 to
the bill.  This was done in Massachusetts.  64 hours of
labor+paint=total.  I got the car completely stripped down to bare
metal and got the doorjams and in the trunk painted.  I also got hood
stripes (add 5-6 hours for that).  Over all, It was a good paint job,
and although there are a few tiny defects, you have to be looking for
them to notice.  In total I spent about $3000.  I'll have my web page
up in a month or two, so you could check out the before and after
shots then if you'd like.  Also, wherever you get it done, make sure
you get some references to check out the work and reputability of the
place.  Also, I reccomend taking pictures of all trim on the car, as
well as have some record of the functionality of locks,door handles,
etc. that may get damaged/lost during the process.  I'm in the process
of trying to get my stoff fixed by the place where i went, as they
lost some chrome trim pieces, my locks don't unlock with the keys, and
my windows don't roll up and down straight.  Good luck.

Stefan
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
sgadecki@yahoo.com






_________________________________________________________
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Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 12:23:51 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rearend ratios

In a message dated 12/1/98
 10:<BR49:<BR01 AM Central Standard Ti, Jon442@aol.com writes:> << 
>   >If your going to be doing alot of highway driving, I'd recomend a ratio
>   >between 3:42 to 3:73. Anything steeper and you'll be hating life on the
>   >highway. With the torque of the 455 the 3:42 should be the best all
around
>   >gear. >>
>  
>  With 26.5 diameter tires, there is only about 300 RPM difference at 60 mph
>  between 3.42 and 3.73 gears.


Does this depend at all on th choice of transmissions? For instance, If I
installed a newer OD trans., would I be better off with something lower than
3.73?

Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 12:24:54 -0500 (EST)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....

If you are looking for a bullet proof 12 bolt and have the $$$$ try KTRE 
in Ohio .. An outstanding posi unit that bolts right in.  

Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio 
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets  
  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 12:35:26 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Rearend ratios

If your going to use an overdrive than yea, you can efficiently use steeper
gears. Up to 4:56 would make a decent streetable gear depending on the OD
ratio. Some OD trannys even have a steeper 1st gear too. Combine the low
1st of the tranny with the deep rear and the torque of a 455, and DAMN!!
SNAP MY NECK! WHOLLY TIRE SMOKE.

ED
THE OMEGA MAN


>
>
>Does this depend at all on th choice of transmissions? For instance, If I
>installed a newer OD trans., would I be better off with something lower than
>3.73?
>
>Cheers/Carron
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 12:41:52 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rearend ratios

In a message dated 12/1/98
 11:<BR37:<BR51 AM Central Standard Ti, ggilpin@wrallp.com writes:> If your
going to use an overdrive than yea, you can efficiently use steeper
>  gears. Up to 4:56 would make a decent streetable gear depending on the OD
>  ratio. Some OD trannys even have a steeper 1st gear too. Combine the low
>  1st of the tranny with the deep rear and the torque of a 455, and DAMN!!
>  SNAP MY NECK! WHOLLY TIRE SMOKE.

Ed,

Recommendations on specific models of OD trans???

How can you identify that stump-puller low in a junk-yard trans?? Since I'l
have to pull my raceboat out of some steep ramps, this could be a lifesaver.

Cheers/Don

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 12:51:31 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: MOTION PERFORMANCE OLDS.

Does this subject raise any eyebrows?
Does anyone have any info on the Motion Performance modified Oldsmobiles. I
know these babys are real rare. They make the 66 W-30 look like bigtime
production. I am very familier with the Baldwin-Motion Chevys. ('67-'74
PHASE III L-88 427 Camaros/Chevelles/Novas/Impalas/Corvettes and PHASE III
LS6 454 Vegas/Chevelles/Camaros. But I have heard rumored that Joel Rosens
speed shop Motion Performace also modified some Oldsmobiles. I don't know
what year. I have seen a '68 W-30 campained by Motion. I have a real thing
for the Motion Performace Supercars, so any info/knowlege/stories would be
supreme.

Ed
The Omega Man

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 10:54:46 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....

Two questions:
	1) where do you get the W-27 cover that will fit a 12 bolt C?
	
	2) where do you get and how hard is it to install the c-clip 
eliminator kit?

	As far as I can tell my '69 came with the 12 bolt 3.31 posi "C" rear 
end and I
would love to put a W-27 cover on it.  As for the c-clip eliminator I would
just rather be safe than sorry unless there is a downside.

TIA

Gene Gilpin wrote:
> 
> Well I'm sure the Ford guy would say the 9" came straight from Jesus, but
> I'm not a Ford guy. As far as housing strength, I'd have to vote Chevy. As
> far as axle strength I'd have to say an F-word. The 12 bolts weakest link
> is the c-clips that hold the axles in. Put the c-clip eliminator kit on a
> 12 bolt Chevy and you'll have to add a new passage to the Bible.
> 
> Ed
> The Omega Man
> 
><snip>

- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 13:05:21 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Rearend ratios

I have a buddy with a big block Nova that's using a 4L80 auto. He swears by
it and having ridin in it a few times I can tell ya its got grunt. He's
running 4:11's and it cruses along at 70mph right around 2200 to 2500 RPM.
I'm not real keen on the exact gear ratios of these trannys. I know they
have some electrical gizmo's and linkage problems to get around. I also am
not sure they make one to bolt to the Olds engine. The bells are different.
I'm more of a 4 speed guy though I've rebuilt a few turbo-hydros. 
Is there someone on the list that know's more about the OD Automatics?? A
little help.

Ed
The Omega Man

- -----------------------

At 12:41 PM 12/1/98 EST, you wrote:
>In a message dated 12/1/98
> 11:<BR37:<BR51 AM Central Standard Ti, ggilpin@wrallp.com writes:> If your
>going to use an overdrive than yea, you can efficiently use steeper
>>  gears. Up to 4:56 would make a decent streetable gear depending on the OD
>>  ratio. Some OD trannys even have a steeper 1st gear too. Combine the low
>>  1st of the tranny with the deep rear and the torque of a 455, and DAMN!!
>>  SNAP MY NECK! WHOLLY TIRE SMOKE.
>
>Ed,
>
>Recommendations on specific models of OD trans???
>
>How can you identify that stump-puller low in a junk-yard trans?? Since I'l
>have to pull my raceboat out of some steep ramps, this could be a lifesaver.
>
>Cheers/Don
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 13:12:54 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....

Cliff
 I have an article in a car magazine somewhere where they did the c-clip
eliminator conversion. From what I remember it wasn't too labor intensive.
I'll have to dig that on back out for the specs. It does sound like a good
Idea. I'm just full of good ideas today. 
Anyway If someone knows off the top of their head where to get the kit
please reply. It could be awile till I find that artical. 

Ed 
The Omega Man










At 10:54 AM 12/1/98 -0700, you wrote:
>
>Two questions:
>	1) where do you get the W-27 cover that will fit a 12 bolt C?
>	
>	2) where do you get and how hard is it to install the c-clip 
eliminator kit?
>
>	As far as I can tell my '69 came with the 12 bolt 3.31 posi "C" rear 
end
and I
>would love to put a W-27 cover on it.  As for the c-clip eliminator I would
>just rather be safe than sorry unless there is a downside.
>
>TIA
>
>Gene Gilpin wrote:
>> 
>> Well I'm sure the Ford guy would say the 9" came straight from Jesus, but
>> I'm not a Ford guy. As far as housing strength, I'd have to vote Chevy. As
>> far as axle strength I'd have to say an F-word. The 12 bolts weakest link
>> is the c-clips that hold the axles in. Put the c-clip eliminator kit on a
>> 12 bolt Chevy and you'll have to add a new passage to the Bible.
>> 
>> Ed
>> The Omega Man
>> 
>><snip>
>
>-- 
>
>Cliff Simpson
>csimpson@ucalgary.ca
>'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 13:39:29 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: bb efi

In a message dated 98-12-01 10:24:39 EST, you write:

<< bds blowers have in teir possession all the nos stock of those fi
 manifolds, for the right $ you can have a manifold or a complete efi with
 hilborn style stacks, and be the coooooooleestt olds for miles around when
 you pop the hood >>

Is there a website, catalogue, or just a tel #?

Dunno how interested, but curious about possibilities of EFI in BB's.
Yah, mebbe Karl can rig a mechanical controller....

Thanks!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 13:46:05 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Alternator output too high?

In a message dated 98-11-30 18:16:35 EST, you write:

<< While I was putting the new performer intake on the 66 Starfire, I hooked
up
 a new voltmeter to my old alternator. 
 
 To my surprise the alt. is putting out about 14 volts at idle (~900 RPM).
 This seems high to me, perhaps high enough to cook a battery.  >>

While Scott and David came really close to saying it, no-one really said why
14 is needed.

Karl understands that Voltage is essentially the "carrier" of ampereage.

Essentially, higher Voltage, better ampere thoroughput.

This is why a battery (12V) with a higher amperage is better for cold
starting. You cannot increase the Voltage! More amperes are needed to ensure
sufficient current to starter/ignition.

In short, Karl would be suprised if High voltage cooked any battery. Would
rather expect higher voltage from alt. as the battery has an internal
resistance!

Or... yet another hallucination.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 14:04:40 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....

I found an article on C-clip elimators in Sept 94 Pop Hot Rodding pages
84-87. 
They used the MOSER kit and their  info. is....       
                                 Moser Engineering Inc.
                                 1616 N. Franklin St.
                                 Dept. PHR
                                 Portland, IN 47371
                                 219-726-6689

I can Fax a copy of the article to any that *has* to have it.  

Donny A.
72 442 

> ----------
	Ed (aka Gene G.) wrote:

> Cliff
>  I have an article in a car magazine somewhere where they did the c-clip
> eliminator conversion. From what I remember it wasn't too labor intensive.
> I'll have to dig that on back out for the specs. It does sound like a good
> Idea. I'm just full of good ideas today. 
> Anyway If someone knows off the top of their head where to get the kit
> please reply. It could be awile till I find that artical. 
> 
> Ed 
> The Omega Man
> 
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 11:37:45 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....

- ---"Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com> wrote:
>
> I found an article on C-clip elimators in Sept 94 Pop Hot Rodding
pages
> 84-87. 
> They used the MOSER kit and their  info. is....       
>                                  Moser Engineering Inc.
>                                  1616 N. Franklin St.
>                                  Dept. PHR
>                                  Portland, IN 47371
>                                  219-726-6689
> 
> I can Fax a copy of the article to any that *has* to have it.  
> 
> Donny A.
> 72 442 
- ------------------------------------------------------

Did they give a price for the kit?
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 13:45:58 -0800
From: ojo@swbell.net
Subject: Pwr Locks

Im puting power locks on my 72 Cutlass S and would like to know where
they go. The exact location would help. I already have power windows.
thanks
 
$Roger 
72 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 14:55:31 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds Oil Filters

In a message dated 12/1/98 8:45:27 AM Pacific Standard Time, bob149@uswest.net
writes:

<< I'm not sure of the exact year Olds switched but later V8's use a smaller
 diameter filter >>

      The PF11 and the PF25 are exactly the same diameter, and the seal
appears to mate up perfectly with the 25..sounds like the 11 will work. Good,
thanks everyone. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 13:56:47 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Advance Timing Light

Having used one a couple years ago and now owning one (~$120.00 @
Summit), I can say they make setting timing a pleasure. NAPA has one for
$275 that will allow adjustment to 0.1 degree of advance. Since my car
has been kicked out of the Winter Nationals, I passed.

No more rubber necking and squirming around to see the end of the timing
tab. Just dial in the amount of advance, and see how close to 0 on the
tab that the line on the balancer is. Adjust distributor as needed.
There's a few more setup steps than that, but sooo nice and easy. And
you can see how your mechanical advance is working by dialing in more
advance, and see if the vacuum advance is working (one way to check
anyways).

- -- 
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 15:28:46 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Olds Oil Filters

Filter recommendation switched from a PF 30 (later consolidated  with the
Buick PF 24) to a PF 45 (later consolidated with the PF 58) in 1978.  Gasket
and mounting provisions are the same for all (and the PF 47 for that
matter).  All I can figure is that the smaller diameter filters provided
clearence for the trans cooler lines in the downsized cars.
Regards,
Fred
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, December 01, 1998 11:45 AM
Subject: Re: Olds Oil Filters


>At 09:09 AM 12/1/98 -0600, you wrote:
>>As stated the Fram PF 11 filter will work on the Olds. Holds more oil,
>>more filtering surface  and has a higher pressure internal bypass relief
>>valve. If you look at the list of cars it will fit listed on the box, it
>>is mostly american motors and such but there is a listing for a mid-60's
>>Olds if I remember right. I have been using these on my stock 71 350 for
>>several years with no problem.
>
>I'm not sure of the exact year Olds switched but later V8's use a smaller
>diameter filter
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 15:32:11 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Olds Oil Filters

Am I brain dead or is the PF 25 a Chebby filter?

- -----Original Message-----
From: DYeager535@aol.com <DYeager535@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, December 01, 1998 2:58 PM
Subject: Re: Olds Oil Filters


>In a message dated 12/1/98 8:45:27 AM Pacific Standard Time,
bob149@uswest.net
>writes:
>
><< I'm not sure of the exact year Olds switched but later V8's use a
smaller
> diameter filter >>
>
>      The PF11 and the PF25 are exactly the same diameter, and the seal
>appears to mate up perfectly with the 25..sounds like the 11 will work.
Good,
>thanks everyone. Dorian
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 15:46:15 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds Oil Filters

In a message dated 12/1/98 12:41:39 PM Pacific Standard Time,
FSNissen@worldnet.att.net writes:

<< Am I brain dead or is the PF 25 a Chebby filter? >>


     Of course I can't find the piece of paper that I wrote the numbers down
on, but I am pretty sure it's PF 25 for ALL Olds 350's and 403's I could find
in their "computer". The 3249 (or whatever the # the diesel truck and cars
take) is the smaller one which looks entirely different and wouldn't work IMO.
Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 15:53:12 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Olds Oil Filters

<< Am I brain dead or is the PF 25 a Chebby filter? >>
___________

Is PF24 the Olds filter and PF25 the Chebby, or the other way around?

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 16:10:59 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....

> ....
> 
> ---"Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com> wrote:
> >
> > I found an article on C-clip elimators in Sept 94 Pop Hot Rodding
> pages
> > 84-87. 
> > They used the MOSER kit and their  info. is....       
> >                                  Moser Engineering Inc.
> >                                  1616 N. Franklin St.
> >                                  Dept. PHR
> >                                  Portland, IN 47371
> >                                  219-726-6689
> > 
> > I can Fax a copy of the article to any that *has* to have it.  
> > 
> > Donny A.
> > 72 442 
> ------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Did they give a price for the kit?
> ==
> Rock-Man
> 
No price given..
Sorry..
Donny

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 14:25:20 -0700
From: karoe@us.ibm.com
Subject: '70 Core Support / Grille

Application is '70 442. Current core support and grille mounting holes in
center of support do not line up. There is only 2 screws holding the grille
on (1 on top on each side) and seems like there should be 4 (2 on each
side)  according to assembly manual. Vertical distance between the 2 holes
(pair for right, pair for left) seems to be the difference. Can anyone with
a '70 let me know what is "proper" vertical distance tween either pair of
center holes for grille mounts ? Is it possible that the core support is
"o.k.", but that 'center latch (?)' piece has been swapped out ? (There is
the stub of a cable on the latch, perhaps a remote hood release ?).
Thanks for the input,
Kyle

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 16:28:42 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: Omega SX found

Hey Folks,
I found a 77 or 78 Omega SX that is for sale (price ? ).
Vin is        3B27A8W146614

What was said last week about the SX? was it the basemodel or best model?

Thanks,
Donny A

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 14:30:22 -0700
From: karoe@us.ibm.com
Subject: 455 Engine Date Code

Have my eye on an E head '70 455 out of a Ninety-Eight. I know about the
code on the block pad for olds,yr,plant,6-digits.  Is there a "date code"
on these engines as well ? Is there a code that will identify what kind of
vehicle it was originally mfgd for ? (I thought chebby did this...).
Thanks for the assistance,
Kyle
'70 442 Ragtop

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 16:39:16 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: 455 Engine Date Code

Is the Ga code 455 head worth using for a high perf app. Or should I look
for C or F heads?

Ed
The Omega Man

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 16:52:42 -0500
From: dclover@epix.net
Subject: Re: Alternator output too high?

Almost totally non-Olds:

	There may be some losses calculated into the final engineering, but no
matter what, you can't charge the battery if the Alt output is 12 v.,
the same or less than the terminal voltage of the battery.

	You start the car and use a significant amount of energy from the
battery to do so.  The charging system is designed to replace that used
energy at some minimal level of engine RPM's.  At and above these RPM's,
a higher potential (voltage) of about 13.5 to 14.5 volts from the
charging system is placed on the battery.  Result:  battery has a 1.5
(or so) volt potential placed on it and is charged over the running time
of the engine.

	BUT, Karl is right about the battery resistance.   Voltage, current and
resistance are all related....

 geez, I hope I can keep this short.  If you don't care to read this,
just delete me and I'll understand!! :-)
Or if anyone wants to let me know where I went wrong,  keep readin'... 

 Voltage (V) = Current (I) *(times) Resistance (R) if I remember my
electronics correctly...  or I = V/R

	The Current will increase IF:

	the Voltage goes UP
    OR
	the Resistance of the battery (or rest of circuit) DROPS. 

		 Battery resistance and terminal voltage will drop if a cell 
has
shorted.  (A battery is made of several lead-acid cells producing a
specific voltage and wired internally to make a 12 volt battery.)  If a
cell should fail, then resistance drops and current goes up (as does the
resultant increase in heat (why?  Well, you don't really want to go
there, but briefly:  Power (P) in watts = I * V; if I goes UP then P
will also).  

	Also since a cell failed, the battery terminal voltage is now well less
than 12 volts, so the voltage difference increases, further aggravating
the heat problem.  P = I * V(d)  where V(d) is the new difference in
.... naw you ~really~ don't want to go there... 


(anyone bored and/or confused yet??  Please be kind and remember the
motto of the day is Forgive and Delete!!)


	As far as heat, Karl and others, peruse if you will (he says in his
best Rod Serling imitation) a small anecdote from the past:

	In the olden days of autos, like the teens, 20's and 30's, when voltage
regulators were unreliable, often the higher voltages of the generators
would cook (literally) the batteries by forcing many volts into a 6 volt
system. (get hot, very hot!!)  They would drive with the headlights on
to prevent battery burnout by reducing the current being delivered to
the battery .... Default DRLs!!   They were 70 years ahead of their
time!!
(I hope others have heard that story before 'cause my source is no
longer alive to check out the details!!)


Anyway,  thanks for reading this too-long rant.   I'm sure there are
others on this list with more knowledge on this subject, so while I
still can, I'm off my soap box and headed to the e-mail bomb shelter
where I hope to avoid a direct hit!! ;-)

DJ
'70 Cutlass Conv


George wrote:
> 
> Chris,
> 
> 14 V is exactly what I think an alternator *has* to put out. You may
> be
> concerned because your car has a 12 volt system. Maybe there are some
> EEs
> on the list to explain this more closely. I just imagine that you
> actually want a higher voltage because you have some voltage decrease
> on
> the resist of the stuff (cables) between alt and battery or because of
> a
> resist-effect in the battery while charging?
> 
> George
> 
> -

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 16:56:24 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rearend ratios

In a message dated 12/1/98 1:06:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ggilpin@wrallp.com writes:

<< I have a buddy with a big block Nova that's using a 4L80 auto. He swears by
 it and having ridin in it a few times I can tell ya its got grunt. He's
 running 4:11's and it cruses along at 70mph right around 2200 to 2500 RPM.
 I'm not real keen on the exact gear ratios of these trannys. I know they
 have some electrical gizmo's and linkage problems to get around. I also am
 not sure they make one to bolt to the Olds engine. The bells are different.
 I'm more of a 4 speed guy though I've rebuilt a few turbo-hydros. 
 Is there someone on the list that know's more about the OD Automatics?? A
 little help. >>
im running a 2004r and 3.73s with 26" tires.  at 70mph im turning about
2800-3000 rpms.
jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 16:18:31 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: Olds Rod Lengths???

>Hey all, 
>  I just want to know if any one out there knows some connecting rod
>center to center lengths for Olds V8 motors? 

6.735" Late 400 & 455
7.0"     425 & '65-67 400
6.0"     330 & 350


Hope this is what you wanted.

roger

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 15:57:23 -0600
From: <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: Rearend ratios

BIGJERMES@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 12/1/98 1:06:19 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> ggilpin@wrallp.com writes:
> 
> << I have a buddy with a big block Nova that's using a 4L80 auto. He swears 
by
>  it and having ridin in it a few times I can tell ya its got grunt. He's
>  running 4:11's and it cruses along at 70mph right around 2200 to 2500 RPM.
>  I'm not real keen on the exact gear ratios of these trannys. I know they
>  have some electrical gizmo's and linkage problems to get around. I also am
>  not sure they make one to bolt to the Olds engine. The bells are different.
>  I'm more of a 4 speed guy though I've rebuilt a few turbo-hydros.
>  Is there someone on the list that know's more about the OD Automatics?? A
>  little help. >>
> im running a 2004r and 3.73s with 26" tires.  at 70mph im turning about
> 2800-3000 rpms.
> jeremy


Jeremy,

	When you installed the 3.73's, did you correct the speedo drive gears?
The combination you are running, 3.73's, .67 OD, and 26" tires makes
2800-3000 RPM @ 70MPH physically impossible. I run this exact same setup
in my '70 and I turn about 2150 @ 70MPH. Either your speedo is off, your
tach is wrong, or your OD is not working.


Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme
.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 16:06:38 -0600
From: <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: Rearend ratios

> > ggilpin@wrallp.com writes:
> >
> > << I have a buddy with a big block Nova that's using a 4L80 auto. He 
swears by
> >  it and having ridin in it a few times I can tell ya its got grunt. He's
> >  running 4:11's and it cruses along at 70mph right around 2200 to 2500 RPM.
> >  I'm not real keen on the exact gear ratios of these trannys. I know they
> >  have some electrical gizmo's and linkage problems to get around. I also am
> >  not sure they make one to bolt to the Olds engine. The bells are 
different.
> >  I'm more of a 4 speed guy though I've rebuilt a few turbo-hydros.
> >  Is there someone on the list that know's more about the OD Automatics?? A
> >  little help. >>

The OD in the 4L80 is .75 - it is intended for heavy vehicles/towing
etc., which results in less OD. It only comes in a Cheby bellhousing,
requires a computer, is an excellent choice for high torque/horespower,
and is darn expensive. Not sure if this is the info you were looking
for.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme
.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 17:12:48 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds 350 and High RPM's

In a message dated 12/1/98 9:24:02 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rockman20@yahoo.com writes:

<< I know that if I were to keep my foot on the
 throttle, that engine would put out at least 6500...and that's with
 stock heads! When the engine goes back in, I am going to have the
 Edelbrock valve springs and the heads will be ported/polished/etc/etc.
 Then I will also be squeezing headers on it. (Still unsure on how they
 will fit, but that subject has been beaten to death.) Anyways, how do
 you go about finding your redline? Do I just hold it WOT until the
 lifters float and then check tach or what? >>

my 350 will rev pretty high, too.  i have about the same setup as you and
since i dont have a posi and i like to rev it highish before i shift, i put in
a msd6al ignition.  it has a built in rev limiter, and i have it set at 6
grand.  so supposedly, my engine wont rev beyond 6,000.  if i didnt have this
i KNOW it wouldnt have too much of a problem going to 7,000 or higher.  im too
scared to take it that high, however, so im sticking to 6,000 and under.  if
you have good valvesprings, and have less than 75,000 miles on it you might be
daring enough to run it up to 6500, but i really dont think youd be going any
faster because your engine setup wont be making any more power at that high an
rpm.
jeremy	 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 14:05:41 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: 455 Engine Date Code

karoe@us.ibm.com wrote:
> 
> Have my eye on an E head '70 455 out of a Ninety-Eight. I know about the
> code on the block pad for olds,yr,plant,6-digits.  Is there a "date code"
> on these engines as well ? Is there a code that will identify what kind of
> vehicle it was originally mfgd for ? (I thought chebby did this...).
> Thanks for the assistance,
> Kyle
> '70 442 Ragtop




Kyle,

The only date code on the block is located near the 
distributor mounting surface.  This is a three digit
code representing the date of the casting.  This will
only indicate the day of the year that the block was
cast. (i.e. 001 = Jan. 1, 002 = Jan. 2, 365 = Dec. 31).
As you noted, the year can be derived by the VIN 
stamping, although there is nothing that will indicate
original application, HP, etc.   
It's a good bet the 98's E heads will be the small intake
valve versions.

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249

Web site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 18:25:02 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Olds Oil Filters

On Tue, 1 Dec 1998 Padavano.Joe@orbital.com wrote:
> Is PF24 the Olds filter and PF25 the Chebby, or the other way around?

AC PF-24 filter fits late 60s and early 70s Olds (and also my '64
Buick) V-8s. What gets confusing is that Fram uses a PH-25 code for their
equivalent to PF-24, as I recall.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 18:31:03 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Exhaust Manifold Woes

Those of you with long memories will recall that back in the summer the
'78 Delta suffered a cracked exhaust manifold on the right side. I
obtained a used replacement. Instead of having it surface-planed I cleaned
it up myself and it looked very clean and straight, if I do say so myself.
It was installed with a new gasket and stayed quiet for about 2 weeks.
Since some other exhaust work was done at the same time as the manifold I
wasn't sure what was wrong. 

I just got back from the muffler shop where I had a new muffler installed
at their recommendation. It is only slightly quieter. There is definitely
a leak at the manifold, one of the most objectionable sounds in existence.
Is there any sure cure for this? Would it be possible to double up the
exhaust gasket and, along with some hi-temp silicone, put it to rest?
Since these were designed for use without gaskets and rely upon exact
machining of the manifold and head surfaces it seems there is going to be
ample opportunity for problems. I just want it to be quiet. Any
recommendations?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 00:52:49
From: <mri87492@yahoo.com>
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 16:47:35 -0600
From: "72Hurst" <72hurst@net-email.com>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Woes

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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I'm interested in the response to this also. In addition, I've been =
having trouble sealing around the Choke tube pipe assembly that goes =
down into the intake manifold and brings warm air up to release the =
choke. I've tried gaskets from the suppliers, but seem to blow them out =
in a very short while. Any thoughts?
Tia
John

>
>Those of you with long memories will recall that back in the summer the
>'78 Delta suffered a cracked exhaust manifold on the right side. I
>obtained a used replacement. Instead of having it surface-planed I =
cleaned
>it up myself and it looked very clean and straight, if I do say so =
myself.
>It was installed with a new gasket and stayed quiet for about 2 weeks.
>Since some other exhaust work was done at the same time as the manifold =
I
>wasn't sure what was wrong.=20
>
>I just got back from the muffler shop where I had a new muffler =
installed
>at their recommendation. It is only slightly quieter. There is =
definitely
>a leak at the manifold, one of the most objectionable sounds in =
existence.
>Is there any sure cure for this? Would it be possible to double up the
>exhaust gasket and, along with some hi-temp silicone, put it to rest?
>Since these were designed for use without gaskets and rely upon exact
>machining of the manifold and head surfaces it seems there is going to =
be
>ample opportunity for problems. I just want it to be quiet. Any
>recommendations?
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>

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<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3511.1300"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>I'm interested in the response to this =
also. In=20
addition, I've been having trouble sealing around the Choke tube pipe =
assembly=20
that goes down into the intake manifold and brings warm air up to =
release the=20
choke. I've tried gaskets from the suppliers, but seem to blow them out =
in a=20
very short while. Any thoughts?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000 =
face=3DArial=20
size=3D2>Tia</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>John<BR></DIV></FONT>&gt;<BR>&gt;Those =
of you with=20
long memories will recall that back in the summer the<BR>&gt;'78 Delta =
suffered=20
a cracked exhaust manifold on the right side. I<BR>&gt;obtained a used=20
replacement. Instead of having it surface-planed I cleaned<BR>&gt;it up =
myself=20
and it looked very clean and straight, if I do say so myself.<BR>&gt;It =
was=20
installed with a new gasket and stayed quiet for about 2 =
weeks.<BR>&gt;Since=20
some other exhaust work was done at the same time as the manifold=20
I<BR>&gt;wasn't sure what was wrong. <BR>&gt;<BR>&gt;I just got back =
from the=20
muffler shop where I had a new muffler installed<BR>&gt;at their =
recommendation.=20
It is only slightly quieter. There is definitely<BR>&gt;a leak at the =
manifold,=20
one of the most objectionable sounds in existence.<BR>&gt;Is there any =
sure cure=20
for this? Would it be possible to double up the<BR>&gt;exhaust gasket =
and, along=20
with some hi-temp silicone, put it to rest?<BR>&gt;Since these were =
designed for=20
use without gaskets and rely upon exact<BR>&gt;machining of the manifold =
and=20
head surfaces it seems there is going to be<BR>&gt;ample opportunity for =

problems. I just want it to be quiet.=20
Any<BR>&gt;recommendations?<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt;Greg =
Beaulieu&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <A=20
href=3D"mailto:ab348@chebucto.ns.ca">ab348@chebucto.ns.ca</A>&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;=20
Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada<BR>&gt;</BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1636
*********************************

