Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1648


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, December 7 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1648



Blaine Info
Fwd: Engine Block Bolts
Re: smoke+noise
Whole in bumper is fixable!!!
classic auto storage
Q-jet Helpful Hint.
Re: Bumpers {Marking for ID}
Re: 307 Timing Chain
RE: Please remove me from the list!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Re: Front Control Arms
Re: Timing Chain
Re: Something right...
Re: 307 Timing Chain
Re: Bumper Reconditioning
Re: Web page update
Re: 68 H/O questions
Re: Q-jet Helpful Hint.
Re: Vacuum line help!
Cam selection Re: 455 Rebuild
Re: Vacuum line help!
Re: Air Bags (what are they)
69 Olds Cutlass S upgrade questions
Re: Olds quotes and crashing cars, etc. -Reply
Re: Bumpers {Marking for ID}
RE:was "Wont Start" it worked
Re: Scary front end ...
Re: Bumpers {Marking for ID}
Re: Vacuum line help!
Re: Olds engines and GN turbo systems
Bumper Boyz
Re: classic auto storage
what's IMHO
'70 442 promo car
Re: what's IMHO
Re: Bumper Boyz
Re: 68 H/O questions
Re: Eastwood Vinyl Paint
Re: Scary front end ... (long)
Air bags
Great movies
Re: what's IMHO
(no subject)
Re: Q-jet Helpful Hint.
Re: Engine Block Bolts
Re: HEI Conversion Completed
Re: Great movies
Re: classic auto storage
Re: 307 Timing Chain
Lic Plate Resto help
Re: Engine Block Bolts
console needed
[Fwd: Lic Plate Resto 
Re: Lic Plate Resto help
Re: 69 Olds Cutlass S upgrade questions
Car Weight
Re: 69 Olds Cutlass S upgrade questions
Re: Looking for 68 steering wheel!
Re: console needed
Re: 69 Olds Cutlass S upgrade questions
Re: Lic Plate Resto help
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1646

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 14:19:53 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Blaine Info

Hi Guys, 

thanks for your help. A fellow olds lister will contact Blaine for me 
tonight and check on the status of things. Sorry again for the 
inconvenience of this basically non olds inquiry.

George
- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 15:27:58 EST
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Fwd: Engine Block Bolts

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- --part0_913062480_boundary
Content-ID: <0_913062480@inet_out.mail.aol.com.1>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

Resending cause I've got no responses so far (except where to put the coil
bracket). Need bolt specs. I know someone knows....  Thanks again.

- --part0_913062480_boundary
Content-ID: <0_913062480@inet_out.mail.AOL.COM.2>
Content-type: message/rfc822
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
Content-disposition: inline

Return-Path: <oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca>
Received: from  rly-ya04.mx.aol.com (rly-ya04.mail.aol.com [172.18.144.196])
	by air-ya01.mail.aol.com (v53.20) with SMTP; Sun, 06 Dec 1998
	09:58:02 -0500
Received: from halifax.chebucto.ns.ca (halifax.chebucto.ns.Ca [192.75.95.75])
	  by rly-ya04.mx.aol.com (8.8.8/8.8.5/AOL-4.0.0)
	  with ESMTP id JAA10488;
	  Sun, 6 Dec 1998 09:57:42 -0500 (EST)
Received: by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca id <32697-21325>; Sun, 6 Dec 1998 10:57:53
	-0400
Received: from imo19.mx.aol.com ([198.81.17.9]:1114 "EHLO imo19.mx.aol.com"
	ident: "TIMEDOUT") by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca with ESMTP id
	<33391-21343>; Sun, 6 Dec 1998 10:57:08 -0400
Received: from CPEARLPARK@aol.com
	by imo19.mx.aol.com (IMOv18.1) id ESKQa15053
	 for <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; Sun, 6 Dec 1998 09:56:10 -0500 (EST)
From: CPEARLPARK@AOL.COM
Message-ID: <8bbfa377.366a9b0a@aol.com>
Date: 	Sun, 6 Dec 1998 09:56:10 EST
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Engine Block Bolts
X-Mailer: AOL 4.0 for Windows 95 sub 230
X-Orcpt: rfc822;"|/csuite/etc/majordomo/wrapper resend -l oldsmobile -h
	chebucto.ns.ca oldsmobile-mml"
Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Mime-Version: 1.0
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit

Can anyone help me out with the specs on bolts intended to fasten things to
the enigne block (71 455)?  Previous owner has things bolted in the wrong
places and I need to straighten it out.  The coil bracket is currently screwed
to the firewall, so I need to know what bolt to use to put it where it should
be.  Also, the negative battery cable is attached to an exhaust manifold bolt
and I'm sure it's supposed to have its own connection to the block.  Any help
on bolts (threads, lengths, etc.) and exact locations for this stuff would be
appreciated.  Thanks in advance...

Scott
71 442 Conv.

- --part0_913062480_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 16:31:30 -0500 (EST)
From: Mritunjay Singh <msingh@tristan.tn.cornell.edu>
Subject: Re: smoke+noise

The blue smoke does not appear for the first minute that I run the car. It
appears after that even when idling. Can you use this information to
narrow down the possibilities further? Thanks!
- -Mritunjay

On Mon, 7 Dec 1998, Mritunjay Singh wrote:

> From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
> Subject: RE: 1986 olds 98 engine noise+smoke
> 
> Depends on when the blue smoke appears.
> 
> Under acceleration, rings
> Under deceleration (say, decel 70 to 50 mph, then mash the gas), valve
> guides/seals
> At idle all the time, rings, or bad PCV.
> Under cold start only, valve guides.
> 
> Noise?  Hard to say, but it if is an oil burner, and has the potential to
> be
> an engine run out of oil, it could be bearings, valvetrain, pistons, etc.
> Sounds like it just needs a good rebuild.  The guys at the Buick Grand
> National site can help a lot with the 3.8L V6 you have, as it is a Buick
> motor.  http://ni.umd.edu/gnttype/www/  Some of these guys are VERY
> knowledgeable on the Buick V6, and you may be able to make it scream.
> Your
> engine is fairly closely related to the GN engine, so add a turbo and fly!
> Talk to these guys!  
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 14:40:05 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Whole in bumper is fixable!!!

Hi Guys, 

good news from Desert Dog Auto Parts... just called them out of 
curiousity: They fix rust holes in bumpers and claim that it is not 
visible from the outside of the bumper! Of course you have to plate it 
new. Cost will be 225 for plating and straightening and every hole they 
close is 45 bucks extra. I thought this is great, just wanted to share.

George
- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 15:51:38 -0500
From: Bob Dale <bctad5@toolcity.net>
Subject: classic auto storage

Greetings fellow listers,
  Considering turning part of a local building into an auto/motorhome
storage facility. Does anyone know what a fair going monthly rate would
be for heated storage with onsite security? No admission without being
accompanied by storage representative.Thanks. B.D.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 15:46:53 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Q-jet Helpful Hint.

Hello Everyone:

I'm sure most of you will recall the semi-euphoric post I made about a
week ago concerning my newly installed Q-Jet.  WELL~as I was driving my
car around, I had to admit to myself that the acceleration just wasn't
very good.  So, while peering down the primaries as I jabbed at the
throttle lever, I noticed only one side was getting a squirt of fuel
from the accelerator pump.  The other side would barely dribble.
Soooo...off came the Q-Jet, back on went the Holley.  After
disassembling the carb~again~and repeated goings over with a very
fine-toothed comb, I discovered a few machining chips stuck in the
discharge port in the air horn, perhaps, left over from the
manufacturing process.  Makes me wonder if guys have been cussing this
carb out for the past 27 years.  After picking out these wayward bits of
zinc, I now have equal fuel discharge on both sides.  Just an idea to
keep in mind for someone who may need it sometime.

Olds content:  This carb is an Oldsmobile Q-Jet.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 15:11:51 -0600
From: bloom9@juno.com (C K)
Subject: Re: Bumpers {Marking for ID}

Eric, what I do is use an engraver and put my mark (I use a mark that is
makes no since to anyone else but myself) in at least three places. The
engraver doesn't envolve any hammering so it won't show on the pretty
side of what you are marking. Of course I mark the side of the part that
isn't seen when installed.  I know this sounds a little paranoid, but
after all, bad people will try to rip you off.

Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 16:15:47 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: 307 Timing Chain

Martin Thomas-WLTM07 wrote:

> Will it tag the valves?  No, not a chance in a 307!  Too low lift.

        How about a 350 (8.5:1 comp)?  My chain's relatively new so I'm not
worried, but trying to keep info for later.  Thanks!--
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 14:03:38 -0700 
From: Arnold Alvin TSgt <alvin.arnold@schriever.af.mil>
Subject: RE: Please remove me from the list!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 
!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

	Please remove me from the list!  This is a temporary situation until
I can relocate to new computer access.



	Louie Arnold

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 10:49:20 -0600
From: <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: Front Control Arms

> I was thinking that perhaps it would be easier to just get a full set of
> upper and lower front control arms from a parts car and do the work at my
> leisure, then I could just bolt them on when the other work is underway.

> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada


Just my $.02 - unless you can pick up a set for free, it seems like a
waste of money to me. You are going to have to pull the old arms off
regardless, and once they are off, it only takes 30 minutes to run to
the local shop and have knock the old stuff out and put the new stuff
in. Assuming of course you have a local shop :)

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme
.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 16:35:15 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Timing Chain

In a message dated 12/5/98 4:05:37 PM Central Standard Time, DrkSole96@aol.com
writes:

<< As long as we're on the subject, dos anyone have anything to say about
timing
 gears vs timing chains.  I've been looking at the parts available, and it
 looks like gear set would be more desirable, is there any durability problems
 associated with them >>


   I think that gear-drives are actually supposed to last a considerable
amount longer than standard chains, or even double-rollers for that matter.
The only drawback is the noise associated with gear-driven timing components.
You definately loose that stealthy sound. Sounds like a 8-71 supercharger!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 16:39:30 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Something right...

In a message dated 12/5/98 7:04:31 PM Central Standard Time, rebel1@raex.com
writes:

<<   My smile was abruptly removed when I looked up to see the cop
 that had been sitting on the side of the street watching my antics (he
 wasn't even a half a block away - DOH!)  I immediately started to fear
 the worst....  but as I came up on him and looked over - he was SMILING
 AND CLAPPING! >>
Its freakin' miracle!!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 16:45:45 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 307 Timing Chain

>Martin Thomas-WLTM07 wrote:
>
>> Will it tag the valves?  No, not a chance in a 307!  Too low lift.
>
>        How about a 350 (8.5:1 comp)?

I highly doubt it....atleast with a stock cam. I've had two break on me
(both in 1970 350's) and have had no problem with the valves slapping the
pistons.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 16:06:58 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Bumper Reconditioning

Don, 
From St Lou too, 
Lou

- ----------
> From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Bumper Reconditioning
> Date: Sunday, December 06, 1998 10:24 PM
> that were possible in case of problems.  Arizonz and California are long
> drives from Ky.  
> 
> Don Sowers

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 16:21:48 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Web page update

Mark, 
Not to worry, didn't take too seriously, have some better pix then the ones
showed, will put them together one of days, also of the 67, 442. What did
you think of the car, really, tried real hard to make it right, I still
have the factory tires and ss wheels in storage, want to get them blasted
and repainted, might show it with them. I just like the TA's and mags
personally.
Lou
 Hey Lou,
> 
> I was just being a FWG........<G>
> 
> From: Mark Hahn [mailto:mahahn@fuse.net]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 17:19:21 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: 68 H/O questions

> Common myths about '68 H/Os surround the options. H/Os did NOT come with
> the sport wheel, gauges, tic-toc-tac, or power steering as standard
> equipment. I have personally seen documented cars with the standard
> wheel and instrumentation. Most non-air cars seem to have been equipped
> with manual steering.

Brent, these are good points you bring up.  I'm glad some of the 68 H/O
knowledgable guys here stepped up, like yourself, Vinny, and Greg R.  I
was trying to rely on memory alone, and I was off on a few points. I am
in NO way as familiar with the 68 H/Os as I am with the 69 versions. 
But I believe what you say about the options.  The 69 version as well
only required the G80 limited slip, the OH TH400, and JL2 power with
front disc brakes.  The gages, sport wheel, and power steering were all
add on options in 69 as well.

The point about the dash wood is one I am still puzzled about. Sure, it
was a stick on, but what glue was used to put it on with?  There are a
few examples seen that in no way shape or form it looks as if there were
ANYTHING glued to the dash, hence, no woodgrain.  Did they even make any
that anyone is aware of without the wood?

There seems to be more mystery floating around with the 68's than any
other year....

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 14:03:18 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Q-jet Helpful Hint.

- ---"Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
  So, while peering down the primaries as I jabbed at the
> throttle lever, I noticed only one side was getting a squirt of fuel
> from the accelerator pump.  The other side would barely dribble.
- -----------------------------------------
Although peering into the air horn does give you an idea of what is
going on in the horn, I would not recommend jabbing the throttle too
much. One bad backfire and you are left with no eyebrows or hair and
in my case no gotee! 

Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 17:27:01 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Vacuum line help!

MB0 wrote:
> 
> I need help locating the correct placement of the vacuum hoses coming
> from the front of my intake manifold on a 350 2 barrell.

This is a thermostatic device to port full vacuum to the distributor
during idle conditions and the engine starts to overheat.  At a preset
temperature, the core slides inside this little guy to shift ported
vacuum from the carb to full manifold vacuum. This helps increase rpm
slightly, and advance the spark, hopefully cooling off the engine, then
the core shifts back to normal.  Therefore, three ports are needed.  One
hooks to the distributor vacuum can, the other to the carb's ported
vacuum connection, and the last one to the intake manifold runner,
usually one in front, like #1.

There is small letters cast into the unit right next to each port.  But,
to save you time, here's where they route, from top to bottom.

Distributor port
Carb port
Manifold port

Hope this helps.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 18:25:53 -0400
From: "Brian Smith" <smithclan@sprint.ca>
Subject: Cam selection Re: 455 Rebuild

Second request


For my 455 rebuild, which will be basically stock with a few improvements,
I have the opportunity to purchase the following cam, springs and lifters:
It is a Crower #56262 with the following specs:
Duration intake - 211@.050/ exhaust-220@.050. Lift intake - .461 exhaust -
.486. RPM range 1800-5000. It seems to fit in between Mondello's JM16 and JM
16-18 which is what I was thinking of using for an improvement over the
stock cam.(562303) I know this is mild for most of you but I like the
smooth, quiet and torque the Olds big block gives you in stock form.
The Crower springs are stiffer than stock of course with the following
specs:: 1.850@90lbs 1.350@285lbs 388lbs per inch.
Will these be OK with a stock type of rebuild? How relatively stiff are
these?
Do they cause the valve train to wear quicker?
The lifters are sealed power.
Is Crower a good cam, quality wise?
What is a good price to pay for cam, springs and lifters in a package deal?
Or what would you normally expect to pay for these parts?

Many thanks
Brian
Halifax, Nova Scotia
71 SX

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 17:35:46 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: Vacuum line help!

basically, these ports have no purpose except on an origional setup.  the
setup should be in a water passage.  this would advance the timing while the
engine is cold to aid the warm-up time.  if you want it to function, there
should be labels on it.  on should be man-which goes directly to manifold
vacuum; dist-goes to distributer vacuum advance; carb-goes timed vacuum port
on carb.  pretty simple.  i believe this was used on all engines from 1971
on???   now if you don't want to use it, just disconnect any vacuum lines from
it.  make one vacuum hose from carb's timed port and hook it up to dist.
that's about it.

mikeytvb@aol.com
70 442 w/455

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 16:53:49 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Air Bags (what are they)

David, 
Posi sends power to both wheels equally, (not computer controlled traction
control setups), Torque causes right rear to lift, hence it's spins more
then left,(open rear end), w/posi, left wheel will still have more weight
on it then right wheel, old trick, lower right side of car, or stronger
spring on right side, or more air in air bag on right side. Also, lower
left front of car, also to offset torque, car will go much straighter off
starting line. Axiom, front engined car w/standard suspension will lift
left front of car and lift right rear of car, always!  Written in blood.
Lou

- ----------
> From: David Brown <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
> To: olds mail list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Re: Air Bags (what are they)
> Date: Monday, December 07, 1998 11:38 AM
> 
> I'd like to add, I've heard about the setup for posi rear ends, but
> would the setup for an open rear end be different? Since posi directs
> power to the wheel with the most grip, and open directs power to the
> wheel with the least grip, the setup, using a valve per side, hence the
> ability to have load with different pressures per side, would be
> different.
> 
> I've heard stuff like load the right wheel a bit more, since the right
> will have more traction, to cause the left and right wheels to equalize
> the amount of traction they have. Thoughts, etc?
> 
> -- 
> David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
>           Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
> http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
> Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
>            ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 14:33:23 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: 69 Olds Cutlass S upgrade questions

These are probably stupid questions, but I want to make sure. I am
guessing that the 69 442 rear springs are a bit stiffer then the
Cutlass. What would happen if I put 442 springs up front as well?
Would the car sit too high up front? I am looking at upgrading the
suspension to try to eliminate the body roll. Can I adapt a rear sway
bar to my Cutlass? Is the 442's front sway bar bigger then the
Cutlass? Any other hints on what I can do to upgrade the suspension?
(I am going to install new bushings)

TIA
Del




==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 15:07:43 -0800
From: Roy Rutz <ROYR@cdpr.ca.gov>
Subject: Re: Olds quotes and crashing cars, etc. -Reply

As long as we are talking about great car crash movies.
Does anyone remember Vanishing Point?
Continous chase and what a begining/ending!
royr

67 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 17:11:59 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Bumpers {Marking for ID}

Eric, 
I was one of the people bit*hing about this, in the past all I did was take
a etching tool and put my name on the inside of the bumper, acid eats
equally, so name is still there, if it's ground away, their ******* you, 
they have no reason to grind on inside of the bumper, I didn't do it on the
last one I sent in, because someone said " He's a good guy", so like Dad
used to say, "Don't believe anything that you hear and only half of what
you see". Saves grief.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

- ----------
> From: Eric Aksomitis <big_olds@hotmail.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Bumpers {Marking for ID}
> Date: Monday, December 07, 1998 12:57 PM
> 
> With all this to-do about bumpers, when I get mine sent in In January 
> (If it KILLS ME), what's the best way to mark it for easy ID after it's 
> been replated.  I Thought of mig-welding in My car's name + 3 points for 
> a triangle in the back of the bumper.  By frying them in real hot, even 
> after getting acid stripped and re-chromed, the bumper could, should the 
> need arise, be x-rayed for ID.  Hardly likely to happen, I know of a 
> reputable shop.
> BUT, it ain't easy to replace a good core for 25+ year old cars if you 
> do get screwed, and both cars of mine that need replating are solid, 
> straight bumpers that don't appear to have ever been bent.
> 
> Any ideas on easy ways to put a good non-reversable mark in a bumper?
> 
> Eric
> http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/biggreen.shtml <-- WILL get a shiny bumper, 
> if it kills me
> 
> >To all, 
> >Some confusion over the bumpers Peter and I were talking about, DESERT 
> DOG,
> >DID NOT DO THE BUMPERS IN QUESTION, DON'T WANT TO SEE HIM GET A BAD 
> RAP,
> >bumpers were done by a guy in St. Lou, it's him we're going to kill, 
> AND
> >after the trial I am going to send my bumper to Desert Dog, heard good
> >things about him. Sorry for the mix-up.
> >Lou Biggs
> >lbiggs@intertek.net
> 
> 
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 17:39:46 -0500
From: "Todd M.Williams" <todd@wvadventures.net>
Subject: RE:was "Wont Start" it worked

>ok heres the deal 350 4 barrel rocket it wont start i checked to see if
>it was fireing but it wasnt i put new plugs and wires points and new >coil
but still no spark any ideas ? im lost
      >thanks
              >Todd

>72 cutlass supreme

>74 442 (still for sale or will part out one of these days)$800 bucks and
>its yours 

>todd@wvadventures.net
________________________________________________________________

thanks for everyones input it worked i changed all the wires to the coil
and to the dis. must have had a old crack bad wire some where and for all
of you how asked yes it was the 74 442 motor i was working on. last time it
was started was in 89 i did all the normal stuff to it before trying to
start it like oil, filter,plugs and wires ,points ect.
anyways today i changed the wires and got in the car and i pumped the gas
pedal 4 times and it started right up on the first try as u can guess i
abought sh%t my self being that it hadnt been started since 89 but i just
had this feeling that it would there was a little bit of smoke when i first
started it up but other than that all was good thanks for every ones help
now may be i can sell it faster and even put that it runs in the adds now
hehe thanks agian list youve been a big help!

Todd

72 cutlass supreme (got it out of body shop yeah!! after 3 month ill post
some pics soon)

74 442 (still for sale or will part out one of these days)$800 bucks and
its yours 

todd@wvadventures.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 13:20:36 -0600
From: <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: Scary front end ...

> 
> I put my baby on wheels to make engine installation easier. The front end
> now (without engine installed) looks scary. If you look at the front
> wheels from the front of the car they look like that:  /   \
> 

This is natural on '68-'72 A bodys. They will return to normal after the
engine weight has been re=applied and the car has rolled a few feet.


Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme
.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 18:13:23 EST
From: DUKEOFBLUZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bumpers {Marking for ID}

You can use a die grinder on the inside,,, oh and i thought it would be a
great time to repost my bumper story,, sorry to those of you that have already
read this, thanks
Jeffrey T. Fieldsend
Board of Director, OCC, Oldsmobile Cutlass Coupes 73-77
http://members.aol.com/cutlascoup/index.html
Member : Oldsmobile Club of America
Member : Hurst/Olds Club of America
Member : Classic Chevy International
______________________________________________________________________
I will try to keep this as short as possible,, i am a member of The Oldsmobile
Club of America,, Hurst/Olds Club of America,, and the board of director for
Oldsmobile Cutlass Coupes 73-77.....Owning 3 Hurst/Olds and also a 1957
Chevy,, 
I decided to replace all the bumpers and hood chrome on my 57 this summer,, i
have seen The Bumper Boyz at car shows and it had seemed an easy way to go,,,
simply bring my cores to a car show and exchange them. I called them in early
April and was informed that I could do it one of two ways,,, 1st take a chance
that no one would buy my order before I arrived or put 25% down and guarantee
the 11 parts I needed would be at the Bloomington car show on May 16th,, I
opted to put the 25% down. Arriving at the car show and after carrying the 11
core pieces, I was informed,, " sorry partner,, I don't have it"  BUT leave
your cores here,, all your pieces were done,, just didn't make it on the truck
and they would ship them Monday,, free shipping,, I would have all new chrome
Friday the 22nd of May,, one week later.
      After not receiving the chrome I called Tuesday the 26th,, and was
informed they would be shipped that Friday the 29th. On Friday, June 5th,,
still no bumpers and I called only to be informed they would call me back
Monday, June 8th.... Still no call.. I called back June 10th , Carlos said
they would be shipped on the 11th... Bumpers arrived on June 16th,, one piece
was chipped and the back bumper was the wrong one. On the 18th of June I asked
if the exchange pieces could be shipped 3 day delivery so I could have them on
Monday, the 1st day of my vacation,,, Bob said yes and assured me they were on
the way,, Ofcourse the bumpers did not arrive until Wednesday,, I was told ,,
it was a paperwork error. On Saturday the 27th the chrome started to peal off
part of the rear bumper. Called the 29th ,, was told new one was on the way...
Called back on the 7th of June,, "" sorry paperwork"" its on the way. Now the
hood bar was starting to bubble,, I called and informed them I would meet them
at a car show in Elkhorn Wis and exchange it there. After receiving the new
rear piece I was called by The Bumper Boys and told to bring the pealing rear
piece to the Elkorn car show when I exchange the hood bar.. I arrived at
Elkorn to give them the rear piece and exchange the hood bar, only to hear the
same words again,,"" Sorry partner"" we don't have one,,, i received my money
for the hood bar back after causing a scene and 2 weeks later am still waiting
my core to be returned in the mail,,,
again i am sorry to take up so much space,,, i just want to warn fellow car
lovers, that The Bumper Boyz did not treat me in a manner i feel i should have
been,,
I should mention that they did send me a check for $50,, after i had a fit
that they charged me $250 to guarantee delivery in May,,, what would of
happened if i had not of shown up at the car show???? Think they would have
refunded my $250 deposit??
Thankyou for your time... Jeffrey Fieldsend

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 17:24:19 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Vacuum line help!

What year is this on?  Remember something like this on my '72 and I 
put the hoses that way myself.  It is a thermatically controlled vacuum 
switch which I couldn't find a replacement without spending over $50.
Car still ran great without it and never gave it a second thought.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>I need help locating the correct placement of the vacuum hoses coming
>from the front of my intake manifold on a 350 2 barrell. There is a
>small pipe just behind the oil fill tube - it has three "arms" coming
>off of it and I need to know where the vacuum lines should go.
>Currently, The top one goes directly to the middle one, and the bottom
>one is plugged. I know this can't be right!
>
>Thanks
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 17:17:45 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
Subject: Re: Olds engines and GN turbo systems

well it is just an airesearch T04 so it will work on an olds engine(ie it is
just about right in size you just need to fabricate the plumbing for it
- -----Original Message-----
From: SpeedCom@aol.com <SpeedCom@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, December 07, 1998 8:39 AM
Subject: Re: Olds engines and GN turbo systems


>In a message dated 12/7/98
> 8:<BR33:<BR14 AM Central Standard Tim, Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com
>writes:> Your
>>  engine is fairly closely related to the GN engine, so add a turbo and
fly!
>
>
>Just curious, but is there any info about using these turbos on Olds V8s?
Some
>of the aftermarket bolt-ons flow around 1200 SCFM. Don't know the flow on
the
>factory unit, but with proper wastegate mods they should be able to give a
big
>V8 a decent boost for trailer towing :-)
>
>Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 15:32:04 -0800 
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: Bumper Boyz

Just a quick chime in. I am not satisfied with the products I've seen from
this company, but I found they did stock my 66 98 rear bumper and they
turned it around pretty fast when my car was being fixed up. 

For as much as we all know about them, it's really a pity they don't do
better work. Imagine how well they could do if this free publicity was
positive. 

Or maybe it's just those of us who're dissatisfied are b*tching.  

cf

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 17:19:56 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: classic auto storage

Bob, 
Don't know, let us know, need the room.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
- ----------
> From: Bob Dale <bctad5@toolcity.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: classic auto storage
> Date: Monday, December 07, 1998 2:51 PM
> 
> Greetings fellow listers,
>   Considering turning part of a local building into an auto/motorhome
> storage facility. Does anyone know what a fair going monthly rate would
> be for heated storage with onsite security? No admission without being
> accompanied by storage representative.Thanks. B.D.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 17:44:13 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: what's IMHO

Andrew C. Green wrote:


> finish has to withstand are a lot higher than what a hair
> drier is capable of, IMHO.
>

I know this is a stupid question and totally non-Olds related but what
the heck does IMHO mean??? I've seen it a million times and can't fugure
it out.

Shane

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 17:44:05 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: '70 442 promo car

There is a '70 442 re-issue promo car for sal on ebay right now. Goes
off tommorow, current bid is $31.00. by jo-han

Shane Gibreal

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 17:41:37 -0600
From: Shang <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: what's IMHO

Shane wrote:
> 
> Andrew C. Green wrote:
> 
> > finish has to withstand are a lot higher than what a hair
> > drier is capable of, IMHO.
> >
> 
> I know this is a stupid question and totally non-Olds related but what
> the heck does IMHO mean??? I've seen it a million times and can't fugure
> it out.
> 
> Shane


In My Humble Opinion


Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 18:48:34 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bumper Boyz

hey  ask DUKEOFBLUZ how good they are          sound like creeps to me     but
hey  who am I?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 18:58:04 EST
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Re: 68 H/O questions

Vinny, thanks for the advice and it was great talking to you my number is
(910)487-1540. If I can ever do anything for you , please ask. Thanks Chris

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 19:05:46 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: Eastwood Vinyl Paint

I have used both Landau Black and Super White on my recent project, my '73
Delta.  Landau Black looked simply black to me.  The only black's I can
differentiate are flat, semi-gloss and gloss!  The Super White is actually
more of a beige type of white.  I used the brand advertised in Eastwood but
bought it from Car Quest for a couple bucks cheaper per can.  I can vouch
for this brand, excellent!  Interior color was an easy choice for
me...White!  Travel with a buddy with a black interior on a hot summer day,
very warm.  The car was triple white when I got it.  I needed a new top and
installed a black one since about the only times it would be up is in the
winter(black absorbs heat) and rainy days.  Just sounded logical to me:
white paint, white interior and black top.  Good Luck!

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
>
>I too have the saddle brown interior and I was thinking of going to black,
>but now white would be even better. I am getting new skins, so I can just
>get the white skins.
>
>My question is which white is the brightest or more in line with pearl
>white for a 72 442 convertible?
>The white they sell is a white and then a super white. Which one did you
>use?
>In your opinion on a 72 442 convertible with a medium blue exterior and
>white stripes, which interior color is better looking, black or white?
>
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
>- ----------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 18:11:28 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Scary front end ... (long)

George,
The A bodies from at least 68 to 72 (my personal experiences) 
came with a "positive camber roll" front suspension design.  What
this means is that as the wheel moves upward it transitions into 
positive camber so at full suspension compression the tires would
look like this:  \  / .  Also when the suspension fully extends it will 
also transition to positive camber so when the suspension is
fully unloaded it will look like the same.   The thing is that it isn't 
that noticable since the bump stops keep the suspension from
extenting but so far.  What it sounds like the previous owner did
was to give you what the refer to as a negative roll kit.  I did this
to my 72 and plan on doing it to my 68 but couldn't figure out a 
way to do it without buying an expensive conversion kit, never
thought of using the later control arms.  The later model spindles
are one piece while all factory spindles up to 72 were two pieces
(upright and crosspiece that bolted together).  These spindles
were common to many GM cars including A,B,F,&X bodies 
during the mid to late 70's at least.  The spindle has better rotor/
caliper (parts still easy to find), more strength, and is taller.

Being taller it changes the front end geometry so that the roll 
center moves from about an inch below ground to a couple inches
above ground.  It also makes the car transition into negative camber
on compression and extension:  /  \ .  It is more noticable in extension,
since due to the taller spindle the suspension will extend further before
it hits the suspension stops since this stop is under the upper control
arm which has been moved higher relative to the rest of the suspension.
(on my 72 I would have to jack the car up about a foot before the tires
would come off the ground!)  If you've ever pushed your car hard in the 
corners and noticed how it sort of plowed and rounded off the outside
edge (sometimes sidewall too) of the tire, that is because of the positive
camber of the suspension as the car leans in the turn and the tire folds
under.  With the better roll center and the negative camber in the turn
the suspension counteracts the tires tendancy to fold under.  

The only drawback is that on some cars that have a lot of frame 
spread you have to use a lot of shims on the upper control arm to get
the suspension to lign up.  This can be a problem if your running a big
block but your running a 350 and that's what I had in my 72 with headers
and it wasn't really even close.  I think my largest shim pack after the 
alignment was 1/2 to 3/4".  All in all it is a great setup but I highly 
recommend spending the $50 for an adjustable proportioning valve
to balance the brakes properly.  

Sorry so long just wanted to let you know what I highly suspect you 
have.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 18:19:32 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Air bags

All, 
Should have clarified statement, Should read, "front engined, rear wheel
drive cars", Engine torque lifts front left side of vehicle, driveshaft
torque lifts right rear wheel of car, so right rear of car lifts.
Everything else applies as stated. Sorry, I'm better then that, or I should
be!
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 19:17:46 -0500
From: "R. Grant" <kgrant442@home.com>
Subject: Great movies

I liked Vanishing Point it had a good car chase but in the very last part of
the movie the car they distroyed looks like a 67 Camero.
Did anyone see Gone in 60 Seconds? It had a 45 min car chase with about 85
car wreaked.
I feel that this might be the best car chase movie

Kevin Grant
80 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 19:38:16 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: what's IMHO

In a message dated 12/7/98 6:47:38 PM EST, sgibreal@nctc.net writes:

<< I know this is a stupid question and totally non-Olds related but what
 the heck does IMHO mean??? I've seen it a million times and can't fugure
 it out. >>

In my humble opinion I think it means in my humble opinion.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 19:37:31 EST
From: JMoakBOTH@aol.com
Subject: (no subject)

subscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 19:36:37 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Q-jet Helpful Hint.

Rock Man wrote:

> ---"Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>   So, while peering down the primaries as I jabbed at the
> > throttle lever, I noticed only one side was getting a squirt of fuel
> > from the accelerator pump.  The other side would barely dribble.
> -----------------------------------------
> Although peering into the air horn does give you an idea of what is
> going on in the horn, I would not recommend jabbing the throttle too
> much. One bad backfire and you are left with no eyebrows or hair and
> in my case no gotee!
>
> Del

    Thanks; you're absolutely right.  Everyone, my original post was a
personal anecdote providing a real-world example of the effects of debris
in a carburetor, in this case, the accelerator pump circuit.  My "throttle
lever jabbing" was slight...just enough to get some response from the
accelerator pump.  PLEASE, don't go smacking your throttle wide open with
your face over your carb.  Or, as the Rock-Man has pointed out, you may
end up with a whole new look!!!

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 18:55:01 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Block Bolts

As far as bolt specs get a tap set and use this to find out what the thread
specs should be.  This will also give you and idea of approximate length.
from there it boils down to deduction and finding just the info on what goes
where.  Would help you myself but I just got a 350 2v.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>Resending cause I've got no responses so far (except where to put the coil
>bracket). Need bolt specs. I know someone knows....  Thanks again.
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 20:31:10 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: HEI Conversion Completed

I forgot to mention the plugs.  I happened to have set of R45S AC Delco
plugs around so I used them.  I gapped them at 0.045 and everything has been
working great, three days and 180 miles with not a single glitch.  Thanks
for the advise and info.

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
>
>Jim,
>For the conversion I've always heard 10 gauge recommended going
>from the fuse box to the HEI.  It doesn't make sense at first that it
>should go from 12 to 10 at the fuse box but supposedly there is some
>kind of consideration that the way the factory ran the looms the wire
>was longer from fuse box to the HEI so you would have more of a
>current drop due to a longer wire.  The way I always did it was to
>run 10 gauge back to the fuse box.  You can unbolt the fuse box
>connector from under the hood for the engine harness.  Looking at
>the back of the connector you can remove the spade that hooks
>to the original resistor wire.  Uncrimp this spade and replace the
>20 with the 10.  I use a bit of solder to make sure it's got a good
>connection and when your done it'll work just like factory.  The
>reason you need to do this is that if your not letting the HEI get
>the full amount of current it will still work but not at full output.
>The other thing is that the cars that came with HEI used
>different plugs and you didn't mention replacing them.  I
>used plugs from a '76 application and changed heat ranges from
>there.  These plugs were supposed to be gapped at .080" but
>gapped them at .060" since thats what seemed to work the best.
>
>Mike B
>mbloomer@gateway.net
>ICQ# 19113713
>72 Cutlass S (RIP)
>68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 20:28:36 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Great movies

Yes, I've seen it - and I can't believe the amount of abuse they put that
Mustang through!  Kind of gives you some respect for the FoMoCo camp...
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a 'glide :-(
'75 Supreme - project car....
'82 Supreme - SB, 700R4, 3.73's - Grin!
'86 Supreme - V-8 - daily driver...

R. Grant wrote:

> I liked Vanishing Point it had a good car chase but in the very last part of
> the movie the car they distroyed looks like a 67 Camero.
> Did anyone see Gone in 60 Seconds? It had a 45 min car chase with about 85
> car wreaked.
> I feel that this might be the best car chase movie
>
> Kevin Grant
> 80 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 20:26:08 EST
From: OLDZ69442@aol.com
Subject: Re: classic auto storage

Bob Dale

   Here in N.J. the prices are $189. per mo. for a totally private garage with
your own  entrance and your own lock.  And $100. per mo. for a large open
garage with one common  entrance and the owner must be there to unlock the
entrance.  
   I'm sure the prices will vary depending where in the country you are.
   Hope this helps.

Bob Iozia
Brick NJ
'69 442
'70 442
'67 Cutlass Cvt
  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 19:29:51 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 307 Timing Chain

>>
>>> Will it tag the valves?  No, not a chance in a 307!  Too low lift.
>>
>>        How about a 350 (8.5:1 comp)?
>
>I highly doubt it....atleast with a stock cam. I've had two break on me
>(both in 1970 350's) and have had no problem with the valves slapping the
>pistons.
>
I wouldn't rule it out on either one.  My 68 350 2v has 3a heads on it since
the previous owner had the chain break and bent some valves.  Instead of
fixing the 5's he slapped on the 3a's and let the 5's walk away.  It all
depends
on where the cam stops and if the chain keeps turning it out of time.  Not
real common for it to happen on any V8 but it can happen.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 20:35:31 -0500
From: Joe & Toni Artwell <tjf26@gte.net>
Subject: Lic Plate Resto help

I have a set of 71 license plates that I am restoring. I striped them
and painted the plate color. That came out great. My question is does
anyone have any advise/techniques for painting the letters. On the other
plates of that year it appears they were kind of rolled on. I tried
masking it off but it doesn't come out right. I also tried useing a very
fine roller but it dosen't work very well either. Brush leaves brush
marks. Any ideas would be very helpful.
                              Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 20:27:49 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine Block Bolts

You have a 1968 Cutlass Supreme with a 2 barrel? The Cutlass Supreme came with
a 4barrel, the S came wtih a 2barrel, what one do you have?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 20:43:19 -0500
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: console needed

Good evening......

                I am looking  for a 67' tilt column....
floor shift or console shift - 2 or three speed.....


I will then look for the Loch Ness monster,
Bigfoot and alien life forms...

Tanks
The General

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 20:47:53 -0500
From: Joe & Toni Artwell <tjf26@gte.net>
Subject: [Fwd: Lic Plate Resto 

Message-ID: <366C8263.2C6E@gte.net>
Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 20:35:31 -0500
From: Joe & Toni Artwell <tjf26@gte.net>
Reply-To: tjf26@gte.net
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01C-KIT  (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Lic Plate Resto help
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I have a set of 71 license plates that I am restoring. I striped them
and painted the plate color. That came out great. My question is does
anyone have any advise/techniques for painting the letters. On the other
plates of that year it appears they were kind of rolled on. I tried
masking it off but it doesn't come out right. I also tried useing a very
fine roller but it dosen't work very well either. Brush leaves brush
marks. Any ideas would be very helpful.
                              Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 20:51:31 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Lic Plate Resto help

Joe,
    Something that you can try that I used was to roll paint - using a long
nap roller - onto a piece of masonite until you get a "thick" wet layer,
press your plate onto it (face down) give it a really good pressing then
slowly lift off flip over and let sit till dry.  It took two coats on mine (
I was a little spooked about putting to much on it in the transfer) and it
looks great!  No brush lines ect.
Just a thought....
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a 'glide :-(
'75 Supreme - project car....
'82 Supreme - SB, 700R4, 3.73's - Grin!
'86 Supreme - V-8 - daily driver...

Joe & Toni Artwell wrote:

> I have a set of 71 license plates that I am restoring. I striped them
> and painted the plate color. That came out great. My question is does
> anyone have any advise/techniques for painting the letters. On the other
> plates of that year it appears they were kind of rolled on. I tried
> masking it off but it doesn't come out right. I also tried useing a very
> fine roller but it dosen't work very well either. Brush leaves brush
> marks. Any ideas would be very helpful.
>                               Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 20:46:31 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69 Olds Cutlass S upgrade questions

The cutlass and the 442...most or all parts are interchangeable. THe sway bars
are the same (i think), and they didnt build anything like a rearend just for
the 442. Just bolt on the rear swaybar, and the thing wont roll. my cutlass
has 442 handling package (2 sway bars, teh springs, all that), and it doesnt
roll at all. Its a land boat too (1966, much longer), and It will outhandel my
dads 68 Cutlass cuz he doesnt have the handeling package.
Well, hope this helps
Kelly
1966 Cutlass
www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 18:53:22 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Car Weight

I have looked through a bunch of books about how much my car weighs, but the
answers varied 500 LB. on equal option car.  My car is a '81 Delta 88 4 door
Brougham.  It has manual windows, doors, seats.  The only options are posi,
F41, Cruise/Tilt/Air.  Air is long gone, so is the little 307 and Th250.
Right now the car has a 455 and a Th400 trans., with a 8.5 10-bolt Buick
3.23 posi.  It also has dual exhaust (stock manifolds, 2.5" front pipes,
balancer tube, Dynomax Super Turbo Mufflers, 2.25" tail.  I am not looking
for an exact figure just approximate weight of the car STOCK.  I can figure
the difference with the 455 and other stuff.  Before someone tells me to go
weigh the thing, please realize that the car is still in the body-shop and
will likely remain there for one more month or so.  When I get it back and
the snow/salt goes away, I will take it to the dump and weigh it.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 19:58:50 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 69 Olds Cutlass S upgrade questions

Del,
Don't know for sure but you sound correct that the 442 springs would
be stiffer than yours but it wouldn't necessarilly make the car sit higher
(forgetting the fact that yours are probably 30 yrs old and your talking 
about new springs) unless your car wieghs less than what the springs
were intended for.  Springs for a 455, cast intake, A/C car would 
make a 350, aluminum intake, non A/C car sit much higher in the
front.  To eliminate body roll read my post on "scary front end" 
about adapting later spindles.  This is the single best thing to make
the car corner flatter.  Before the spindle swap on my 72 the biggest
improvement was with a set of KYB high pressure shocks.  Stiffened
up the ride some but flattened it out in the corners very well (front end
still plowed though).  As far as sway bars you can box your lower 
control arms yourself for the rear bar to mount up to by just welding 
on a plate to the bottom and drilling the required holes.  Some of the 
bigger bars came on station wagons and I got mine off the same 76 
wagon I got the spindles from.  Had to flip it upside down and make 
some spacers for the end links to clear but it worked fine.  Aftermarket
you can get up to 1 1/8" front and 1" rear bars as far as I've seen.  While
your replacing the bushings try replacing the body mounts too.  If you 
use urethane it will stiffen the car up a lot and reduce body lean if your
old body mount are showing thier age.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>These are probably stupid questions, but I want to make sure. I am
>guessing that the 69 442 rear springs are a bit stiffer then the
>Cutlass. What would happen if I put 442 springs up front as well?
>Would the car sit too high up front? I am looking at upgrading the
>suspension to try to eliminate the body roll. Can I adapt a rear sway
>bar to my Cutlass? Is the 442's front sway bar bigger then the
>Cutlass? Any other hints on what I can do to upgrade the suspension?
>(I am going to install new bushings)
>
>TIA
>Del

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 22:02:46 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Looking for 68 steering wheel!

On Mon, 7 Dec 1998, George wrote:
> I am looking for a 68 steering wheel for my cutlass. What was originally 
> in there (don't have built sheet). Does anybody sell a 68 wheel that 
> would fit. Need some info on wheel options available in 68:

I think there were 3 wheels in '68. The F-85 basic wheel (you don't want
that); the "deluxe" wheel used on S models and (I think) Supremes; and the
woodgrain sport wheel that was an option (wish I had one). These latter
ones are expensive, about $200 if you can find one. The deluxe wheel is
nice though, 3 spokes, color-keyed to the interior, 2 horn buttons, and
some stainless rings separating the rim sections. There is some ribbing on
part of the rim too.  What color is your interior? Might be tough to find
a colored wheel.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 20:50:09 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: console needed

Hehe, They arent that hard to find. I found a Console for my 66 Cutlass easy.
Its out of a 442, but who gives a damn. I got a vacume gage now too :). I just
need the stock tach, anyone got a 66 Stock dash mount tach?
Kelly
www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 22:05:42 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 69 Olds Cutlass S upgrade questions

I don't know if it would sit too high in the front if you used the 4-4-2
springs. These cars seem to have a tendency to droop in front over time so
it might work out well in the long run. The 4-4-2 had a thicker front bar
and a rear bar. Both of these are worthwhile upgrades (I've done them
both).

On Mon, 7 Dec 1998, Rock Man wrote:
> Cutlass. What would happen if I put 442 springs up front as well?
> Would the car sit too high up front? I am looking at upgrading the
> suspension to try to eliminate the body roll. Can I adapt a rear sway
> bar to my Cutlass? Is the 442's front sway bar bigger then the
> Cutlass? Any other hints on what I can do to upgrade the suspension?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 21:09:09 -0500
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Lic Plate Resto help

Joe & Toni Artwell wrote:
> 
> I have a set of 71 license plates that I am restoring. I striped them
> and painted the plate color. That came out great. My question is does
> anyone have any advise/techniques for painting the letters. 

Thick paint and a hard rubber roller work well.

- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
OCA# 30442

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 21:14:01 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1646

Hello all,
 Anyone interested in weird engine parts combinations? Here's one i haven't 
tried, but it should work;
455 crank with 425 con rods and a 455 pontiac piston.
 The pontiac piston has the same pin diameter as the olds. The stock bore is 
4.151". A .+060 size would be 4.211 [
+.086" in the olds for 473.5 cubes]
425 rod ~ 7" vs  455 rod~ 6.735" =.265"
[TRW#2323 455 piston compression height 1.735"] 1.350"-.265"= 1.470"
I've found that most uncut blocks finish up around .035" deck with a TRW 2323. 
This means for a ".005" deck you would
need a 1.500" C.H. piston.
 A Keith Black 455 Pontiac piston is 1.500" C.H. This piston has a notch 
displacement of 6cc. This combo should finish
around .005 deck. It would "gain" 8.5 cc in compression over a 2323[14.5cc].
  This combo with 82cc heads/felpro gasket should finish at around 10.2-1 
@4.151", and 10.5-1 @4.211", opposed to a
#2323, which finishes around 9.4-1
 The 7" 425 rods would change [improve] the rod/stroke ratio from 1.58 to 1.64.
 I've used the 396/402 Chev piston with the stock 455 rod, but it requires 
reaming the olds rod out to 9.89", and you
have to cut the dome off of the BB chev piston.
 Be aware the pontiac 455 piston has an odd ring size, but most rebuild kit 
suppliers will swap the ring in the kit
for you.
 Thanks for the bandwidth.
Dave Brode
64 Cutlass 455 Olds 11.41@119.96
67 Chev prostreet  pick up project.  500 Caddy w/ +.100 BB[454] chev 
pistons/425 olds rods/pontiac 2.11-1.77
valves/etc

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1648
*********************************

