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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1690


oldsmobile-digest     Tuesday, December 29 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1690



Re: [Re: body shop est.]
Re Body Shop
diesels
weight of gasoline
unsubscribe
UNBOUNCE: Bearings, oil pump or high crankcase pressure?
Youngmobiles
Comp Cams - Olds Muscle Car Cams
RE: body shop est.
RE: Stall Converter Advise/tranny
Still looking for another 73 Cutlass S w/455/4pd
Re: body shop est.
Re: master cylinder leak
Re: body shop est.
Re: diesel stroker and other possibilities [long]
Re: body shop est.
Re: body shop est.
Stroker combos
source for new horns
Re: Stroker combos
Re: master cylinder leak
headlights help
Re: source for new horns
Re: body shop est.
RE: headlights help
Re: body shop est.
Re: hello all
RE: headlights help
more MC leak
Re: body shop est.
Re: diesel stroker and other possibilities [long]
RE: WAS: Husky G-bodies weight of gas
Re: body shop est.
RE:  Aluminum hoods and accesory
Re: Husky B-G-bodies (Was: Re: 5300LBS)
Re: Torque Converter Swap Backyard-Tech
SMW 403 hunt  [WAS: diesel stroker and other possibilities [long] ]
Re: Husky G-bodies (Was: Re: 5300LBS)
HP ratings between auto to 4sp.
Re: HP ratings between auto to 4sp.
Small block head swap
Re: HP ratings between auto to 4sp.
Re: Aluminum hoods and accesory
Re: body shop est.
Re: headlights help
Re: more MC leak
Coating Aluminum
Re: Small block head swap
Bumpers, cams, and toys
Re: SMW 403 hunt  [WAS: diesel stroker and other possibilities [long] ]
Re: Coating Aluminum
Re: Coating aluminum
RearEnd Clarification
Re: diesel stroker and other possibilities [long]
Re: Aluminum hoods and accesory
Re: HP ratings between auto to 4sp.
Disk Brake Conversion Kit
Re: body shop est.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: 28 Dec 98 23:26:01 PST
From: Bruce Suess <restoman@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: body shop est.]

oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:
I am curious, did you paint the whole car, or just a section? I am not
trying to be mean but you claim that you painted a car for $300.00 and it
came out "perfect". I find that hard to believe. Then again, what is your
definition of "perfect". What type of paint did you use? I know good
quality pant such as DuPont can cost $200.00 a gallon for the basecoat.
Then you must buy the clear and the reducers and hardeners for both. What
about primer and sanding paper? You did sand the car didn't you? I hope so
because I wouldn't wash the car because the paint will peel off.

Again I am not trying to be a jerk, I feel that a post claiming a "perfect"
paint job costing $300.00 is not only ridiculous but a blatant lie. Why not
post a pic of the car on the net and maybe we can get a "general idea" of
what "perfect" is. 



I wish I said that!

restoman

Also using periods at the end of a sentence would be nice, instead of
having a run-on sentence.

Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: RICH6986@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: body shop est.
> Date: Monday, December 28, 1998 3:00 PM
> 
> In a message dated 12/28/98 3:57:40 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> SemantanaC@tce.com writes:
> 
> << 
>  >>
> just do it yourself you save alot of money cost my friend $300 when we
painted
> his car came out perfect but then again we already had a compressor, and
all
> of the sprayers for 
it							Rich


RESTOMAN

____________________________________________________________________
More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://home.netscape.com/netcenter/mail

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 02:26:14 -0500
From: "R. Grant" <kgrant442@home.com>
Subject: Re Body Shop

I had my Cutlass Painted 2 years ago and it cost me 1500$ CDN or 900$ US the
paint was 600$ alone.
It was a colour change as the car was silver, we painted it the base colour
for candy black (pearl in black) PPG paint.
There was minor body work, just fixing some dents and minor surface rust.
The car was block sanded 4 times to make sure the body was straight. The car
was then painted one base coat, then wet sanded then 4 more coats of base,
then 4 coats of clear. I bet this is the only Cutlass painted this colour. I
found that if you take the trim off yourself and do some of the minor work
it will cut the cost quite a bit as most shops charge 55-65$ an hour.

Kevin Grant
80 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 23:16:58 -0800 (PST)
From: jalkara <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: diesels

i go with the first statement, cut um some slack and get out of the way of
the semi,  he will feel a large speed bump, we will be putting flowers on
your grave, regardless who is right or wrong or breaking the law or being
legal, car occupants will be wet spots on the pavement.

olds content,
the posi still works well in the in the 442, as was evidenced by black
stripes seen today emanating from under the rear of the 442 when looking
in the rear view mirror


47rocket98

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 01:55:15 -0600
From: Edmund Terry Fiene <kawtu2@flash.net>
Subject: weight of gasoline

Lubrizol's Industry Standards indicates the specific gravity of gasoline
is 6.20 lbs per gallon. 
Terry
455" Olds powered Luv

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 03:26:19 EST
From: HippieJohn@aol.com
Subject: unsubscribe

how so I unsubsribe from this list?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 06:54:24 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Bearings, oil pump or high crankcase pressure?

Not on the list as far as I can tell; respond to
msingh@tristan.tn.cornell.edu if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Mritunjay Singh <msingh@tristan.tn.cornell.edu>
Subject: Bearings, oil pump or high crankcase pressure?

I put up a posting (reproduced below) about a problem with my car. I got
several theories and I'm  putting them in this posting to see if we can
converge to any consensus :)

I recently bought this car.
Car: 1986 Oldsmobile ninety-eight regency brougham
Engine: 3.8L V6 Sequential multiport injection.
Ignition: C3I Type II

Problems

1) The part of the engine front cover above the oil pan has cracked
causing the crank sensor(which is mounted on it) to break. The crack
also resulted in one of the bolts holding the oil pan to snap. A piece
of metal about 3 square inches has actually come right off from above
the oil pan causing oil leakage. The oil-pan gasket has come out partly.

2) Before the sensor was destroyed, the car used to run for about 30
seconds and
then started giving out huge amounts of blue fumes from the tailpipe. I
tried removing the oil filler cap and running it. Now it gave lots of
blue smoke from both the tailpipe and the oil filler.

3) Sometimes, the starter would crank slow and sometimes it wouldn't
crank at all. I changed the battery to no avail. I did an oil change
(the oil was filthy!) and it started cranking again. But later on other
occasions, it again wouldn't crank sometimes and sometimes it would
crank very well. The starter is only 6 months old.

There  are several theories

1) Cracked piston ring causing huge blowby gases causing buildup of high
pressure in crankcase causing damage mentioned above. This doesn't seem
right as I don't see much fumes coming out of the hole..

2) Siezed oil pump. perhaps causing the damage physically . I don't
think this is right because there's a lot of oil leakage when the engine
is running indicating some pump action....

3) PCV valve clogged. Seems unlikely to cause such pressure buildups. I
did change the valve but haven't been able to start it again due to the
broken cranshaft sensor(which I'm in the process of replacing).

4) Front bearings damaged.

This car seems to have been abused a lot by the previous owner.
What should I do next?

Thanks
- -Mritunjay

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 07:25:42 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Youngmobiles

Olds *did* use the "youngmobile" line with the '67 models. I have some
magazine ads for '67 Cutlasses that use it. So there. ;-)

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 22:28:40 +1030
From: "Scott Clisby" <scott@tplex.com.au>
Subject: Comp Cams - Olds Muscle Car Cams

G'Day Guys & Girls,

I just got a copy of Comp Cams catalogue. In it they list 'Factory Muscle'
cams, for the 455 olds they list

Factory ID Number 402194, OEM Application Year 1968, Factory HP - 370, Comp
Cams Part #42-114-3, Lift In .474 Ex .474 Duration @ .050 In 233, Ex 233,
Lobe Separation Angle 113.

They also list their improved grind "Magnum Muscle" aka Magnum 280

Factory ID Number 402194, OEM Application Year 1968, Factory HP - 370, Comp
Cams Part #42-231-4, Lift In .490 Ex .490 Duration @ .050 In 230, Ex 230,
Lobe Separation Angle 110. Adv In 280, Ex 280 (Operating RPM Range
2000-6000, Good for street machine with mild converter. Use headers and
lower gears. Rough idle).

Does anyone on the list have any good/bad experiences with either of the
above two cams or any of the other Comp Cam Magnum series. At this stage I
am tempted to go for the Magnum over the factory grind.


Ps. How do you interpret the fatory HP ratings ? eg. 1968 455 rated at 370,
is this at the flywheel, rear wheels ???

Any comments or experiences would be appreciated - I'm still trying to make
up my mind on which cam/combo to go for !!!!!

Thanks


Scott Clisby
1960 455 Coupe at home in Oz

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 07:43:22 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: body shop est.

Hey, just an FYI.  I'm not the one getting the $4500 estimate.  Nor am I the
one with a 'perfect' paint job.  It seems with all the replies my name keeps
appearing at the top of all the old postings and I just want to set the
record straight so to speak.
Now hit the delete key :)

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 08:08:40 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: Stall Converter Advise/tranny

Igor,
yep, it's a BB 455 in a 3800 # 72 442.  The tranny is a TH350 with a std 12"
converter.  I know I really should be running a TH400 but, I had the 350's
sprag race upgraded to the 700's sprag race and had a racing rebuild done on
it.  Looking back on that, it would have cost the same money to 'build' a
700R4 to take the power.  Back then I thought they were junk and knew there
was not a 700R4 out there that would bolt up directly to my olds block. The
trans guy said he could cut the bellhousing off of the 700 and replace it
with one off of a 350.  I said 'no way' and still stand by that now.

I've got a TH400 long tailshaft that works good for daily driving but, would
probably croak if put my 450+ hp on it.

Does anyone have a short tailshaft 400 or a 700 to trade me for my good 400
long tailshaft?  


Donny Arnold
w.d.arnold@lmco.com

72  Olds 442  
41 Chevy 
63 Chevy Truck



> ----------
> From: 	Igor T. '81 DRB 455[SMTP:igor455@home.com]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> 
> 
> I want a
> >higher stall (3000-3500) but I just can't afford the $225-$300 price of a
> >TCI.
> 
> 
> What motor is this.  If you have a BB then a regular 12" converter would
> do
> enough.  You will spin the tires regardless.  My 12 inch in the TH400
> works
> great and stalls way higher then 2000.  So what car is it and what motor.
> Igor.
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 08:23:12 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Still looking for another 73 Cutlass S w/455/4pd

   One of these days I know someone will have another. So I will keep trying.I
have found (Chuck Zallows) 73 "442" and 5 Cutlass Supremes w/455/4spds. One of
the 73 Supremes has 25,000 orig. miles (Norman Kventskys) and has not been
restored like my 73 has not been restored, the dual snorkle air cleaner also
has a "442" decal like my 73 does. Everyone didnt believe that the decal was
original, I knew it was, the car only has 8,920 orig. miles. Hope to find
another! Harry Mager, New Jersey
Here is my cars webpage <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">
1973 Olds Cutlass 455 4speed</A>  Have a great Holiday!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 05:49:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: body shop est.

- ---Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com> wrote:
> I'm sure there are other reasons which account for
> a geographical price spread.  But one is the good
> old EPA.  Different regions of the country are 
> subject to different standards than others.  
> Areas with the strictest standards are required to
> have quite elaborate (read expensive) paint booths
> and equipment.  Which keep the ppm released into
> the atmosphere to a very strict minimum.  
> Of course these costs have to be passed along to the 
> customer.  The cost of materials will also differ state 
> to state (or county to county).  As they are subjected 
> to different tax rates.  Some regions impose higher
> taxes on hazardous materials.        
> Here in the Portland area, we are subject to both the
> EPA and our local air quality control agency (DEQ).
> With the help of these two agencies, the cost
> of paint work has risen dramatically in the past
> five or so years.  Some shops have elected to 
> eliminate painting altogether.  
- ---------------------------------------------------

Okay, just a bit more bandwidth usage and then I will end this thread.
Why is it that North Dakota seems to be so damn expensive then? Heck,
our whole state population, doubled, won't even equal some of these
bigger cities! But yet, we pay a termendous amount here. We have our
minimum wage jobs and to find a job that pays anything like 10 bucks
an hour, you are damn lucky to get! But yet, you are looking at over
300 bucks just to rechrome ONE of my bumpers. Paint jobs (for a good
job) are still running anywhere in the 3-5 grand area. I know that the
regulations here aren't that strict. Heck, I took my H*nda to the shop
a few months ago. (Yea, don't rub it in.....but when you have 100
vacume lines and an idling problem, you fix the problem!) They found
that my charcoal canister was plugged solid. You know what the dealer
did to my car? They disconnected the thing and by-passed hoses and
said that would work! A very prominent pollution control part and the
dealer just by-passes it! My point is, I think that I am getting
screwed just because. There is really no reason behind it. I think
that it is just the fact that they know I can't go anywhere else and
that I will pay the price. (This is where all business men jump in and
bring their painting businesses to ND! :-)

Okay, I am done with this thread. Thanks everyone!
Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 09:01:50 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: master cylinder leak

In a message dated 12/28/98 7:09:34 PM EST, ab348@chebucto.ns.ca writes:

<< scary with that single cylinder they used in
 the old days. >>

I have that system now on my 1956 Mercedez 190SL. I'm torn between keeping the
originality and making it road worthy for today's driving. So far I've done
nothing to change it, but I have to tell you it's scary.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 Conv. (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 06:01:01 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: body shop est.

- ---RICH6986@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 12/28/98 3:57:40 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> SemantanaC@tce.com writes:
> 
> << 
>  >>
> just do it yourself you save alot of money cost my friend $300 when
we painted
> his car came out perfect but then again we already had a compressor,
and all
> of the sprayers for 
it							Rich
- ------------------------------------------------------
I don't know why everyone makes this sound so simple! My dad and I
stripped and painted his full size conversion van. It came out looking
nice, but we couldn't get it a glossy look. It's still a little rough.
We couldn't get it buffed out for anything. Yea, it wasn't a problem
shooting it, but you have to have the right temp, the right
conditions, the right everything that is really hard to do unless you
have a shop that is set up to do it. Just my $1.75 though.

Del 

==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 09:24:27 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: diesel stroker and other possibilities [long]

In a message dated 12/28/1998 11:57:57 PM Eastern Standard Time,
stulk@bellsouth.net writes:

<< Seems there was a thread on this matter not long ago and for the most
 part, (that I remember) the soild 403 main blocks just don't exist. >>


Bummer......    Well, it was only a thought (the stroker 403), but I do think
I will make it a 4speed car.   

SeeYa!
Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 09:37:03 -0500
From: "Bill Reilly" <wjreilly@erols.com>
Subject: Re: body shop est.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, December 29, 1998 2:11 AM
Subject: Re: body shop est.


>That estimate is not outrageous. It cost me IN SUPPLIES ALONE around
>$2000.00. The only way you can paint an entire car for $1000.00 is using
>the cheapest products, not going to bare metal and just doing an "Earl
>Shieb" paint job. For a down to bare metal, make the car straight, make it
>look like new paint job price ranges of $4000-$8000 are normal.
>Pettrix@prodigy.net


Finally, someone with a "real" estimate.  That $4-8K paint job seems to be
the norm here in NJ.  My Cutlass project will most likely run on the higher
end of that figure.  Then again, I'm getting complete strip to bare metal,
some custom metal work, some custom fiberglass work, windsheild replaced,
vinyl roof replaced, and some small rust spots and dings taken care of.

Now, if only the weather  would cooperate so I could get the car up and
running.

Bill Reilly
mailto: wjreilly@erols.com

My Garage:
'83 Cutlass Ciera
'84 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 09:46:08 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: body shop est.

In a message dated 12/29/1998 9:39:12 AM Eastern Standard Time,
wjreilly@erols.com writes:

<< That estimate is not outrageous. It cost me IN SUPPLIES ALONE around
 >$2000.00.  >>


I agree....  It cost me around 3,000.00 in suplies after all the body work,
sand paper, primers, putties, reducers, paints, etc.  I used Dupont Premier
and I'm very saticfied with the results.  Do take in to account that paint
shops pay less for their paint then we do, and that they can mix only the
amount of paint they need, not just quarts and gallons.  So, it is not
unreasonable to expect exxelent results from a 2,000.00 paint job, but expect
it to cost alot more is any body work, stripping needs to be done.

Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 10:05:10 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: Stroker combos

Alright Dave, you got me really thinking now....

Has anyone checked into the possibility of using other B,P, or C cranks in
the olds SB or BB to increase the stroke?
I'd bet it would a whole lot cheaper to buy a stoker crank made for this
purpose than to figure out, buy, machine, and adapt parts, to fit. Plus
buying a stroker crank from KB or DM or whoever makes 'em would save a
person about $1000 in aspirin and hard liquor !

Has anyone had enough 'free' time to probe into these combos?

Just curious. I think?

Now it's really getting fun ...... maybe?

Donny Arnold
w.d.arnold@lmco.com

72  Olds 442  
41 Chevy 
63 Chevy Truck

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 09:18:27 -0600
From: "Greg" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: source for new horns

Anyone have/know of a source and price for new pair of horns for my '71
cutlass supreme?

thanks,
greg

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 09:20:14 -0600
From: "Greg" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Stroker combos

I believe Mondello has done some work in this area.  His 493 stroker uses
Buick rods on a custom ground crank and special pistons.  Very low rpm motor
though (up to 4500rpms if I remember right).

- -greg


>Alright Dave, you got me really thinking now....
>
>Has anyone checked into the possibility of using other B,P, or C cranks in
>the olds SB or BB to increase the stroke?
>I'd bet it would a whole lot cheaper to buy a stoker crank made for this
>purpose than to figure out, buy, machine, and adapt parts, to fit. Plus
>buying a stroker crank from KB or DM or whoever makes 'em would save a
>person about $1000 in aspirin and hard liquor !
>
>Has anyone had enough 'free' time to probe into these combos?
>
>Just curious. I think?
>
>Now it's really getting fun ...... maybe?
>
>Donny Arnold
>w.d.arnold@lmco.com
>
>72  Olds 442
>41 Chevy
>63 Chevy Truck
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 10:26:40 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: master cylinder leak

In a message dated 12/29/98 0:39:59 AM EST, ainode@frontiernet.net writes:

<< fix that leak dude, or you may have the pleasure as i have of rolling down
a
 hill to a stop sign and nearly going thruogh it and a small imported pick-up
 truck with a 5000 lb vehicle. >>

I hear you bro. I'm on it!
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv. (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 10:37:46 -0500
From: "Todd M.Williams" <todd@wvadventures.net>
Subject: headlights help

im needing the adjustment screws to adjust the head lights can i get these
at an auto parts store or is it a dealer item mine is stripped out thanx 

Todd

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 10:53:32 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: source for new horns

>Anyone have/know of a source and price for new pair of horns for my >'71
cutlass supreme?


Year One , part # 86N (high note) and part # 87N (low note).  I have a 1995
catalog (time for a new one) so I imagine the price is no longer $27.00
each.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 11:00:47 EST
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: Re: body shop est.

>I am curious, did you paint the whole car, or just a section? I am not
>trying to be mean but you claim that you painted a car for $300.00 and it
>came out "perfect". I find that hard to believe. Then again, what is your
>definition of "perfect". What type of paint did you use? I know good
>quality pant such as DuPont can cost $200.00 a gallon for the basecoat.
>Then you must buy the clear and the reducers and hardeners for both. What
>about primer and sanding paper? You did sand the car didn't you?

Yes we painted the whole car, and even sanded it to  the paint he got at work
for about $80 a gallon and we got 2 gallons we already had plenty of sand
paper, spent about $30-$50 on primer, and about $100 on hardener and reducer
and about $100 on beer/cigarettes the car is a 77 omega and you asked why I
said it was perfect the color that it was before we painted it was the ugliest
brown I have ever seen in my life and when it was done it looked perfect it
like it was brand new(except for the tan vynal top)  ok so maybe between
$400-$500            and as for periods and the end of sentences i have never
used them i just dont like them  :-p 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 10:58:18 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: headlights help

> im needing the adjustment screws to adjust the head lights can i get these
> at an auto parts store or is it a dealer item mine is stripped out thanx 
> 
Most likely from an auto parts store.  Or, dare I say it, they could
probably be obtained from a body shop.  Or depending on where you're located
and how quickly you need them, I believe some of the parts houses carry
them, like Year One, Fusick etc ... seems I recall seeing them in a catalog
just recently.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 11:12:54 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: body shop est.

>I hate to waste bandwidth here, but I have always been curious. Why >is
it,
estimates differ from different parts of the country?

I believe it has to do with the "cost of living" index or whatever you want
to call it for an area. Overhead is higher. ie. rent, labor etc.

That's why people in Northern VA, D.C. area pay $500 for valve job (right
Joe ;)
_________

Absolutely correct.  Just look at the differences in housing prices; you'll
get a pretty good indication of the differences in salaries for the two
areas.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 08:28:51 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: hello all

What is a GT?  An Olds GT??????


81-88 Cutlasses,H/O's, 442's or GT's 
i have seen one 88 GT was white w/ cream and red H/O stripes and
>H/O ground effects seen that on e and one advetised for sale, anyone 
have
>any info on either of theses oddballs cause i cant find any


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 11:37:13 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: headlights help

Pep Boys has them on the "help aisle", Red hanging Motormite packages, to be
more exact. I think I remember them being $1.99 or $2.99. They are almost
always on one of the sales floor aisles.
If you don't have a Pep (I call it "Penis" cause I worked there 3+ years and
got screwed alot) Boys then Auto Zone and Advance Auto parts both carry
motormite packs.  I'm sure you will have good luck finding them at one of
these places.   
Hope this helps.

Donny Arnold
w.d.arnold@lmco.com

72  Olds 442  
41 Chevy 
63 Chevy Truck




> ----------
> From: 	Todd M.Williams[SMTP:todd@wvadventures.net]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Tuesday, December 29, 1998 10:37 AM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	headlights help
> 
> im needing the adjustment screws to adjust the head lights can i get these
> at an auto parts store or is it a dealer item mine is stripped out thanx 
> 
> Todd
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 11:40:42 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: more MC leak

At the risk of sounding lame, can anyone tell me how to bech bleed a MC? Is
there an advantage over doing it on your car, or do you have top do it twice? 
Thanks
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 11:42:59 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: body shop est.

In a message dated 12/29/98 11:04:58 AM EST, RICH6986@aol.com writes:

<< Yes we painted the whole car, and even sanded it to  the paint he got at
work
 for about $80 a gallon and we got 2 gallons we already had plenty of sand
 paper, spent about $30-$50 on primer, and about $100 on hardener and reducer
 and about $100 on beer/cigarettes the car is a 77 omega and you asked why I
 said it was perfect the color that it was before we painted it was the
ugliest
 brown I have ever seen in my life and when it was done it looked perfect it
 like it was brand new(except for the tan vynal top)  ok so maybe between
 $400-$500            and as for periods and the end of sentences i have never
 used them i just dont like them  :-p  >>

Sounds like a good deal. What time you open?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 10:43:20 -0600
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: diesel stroker and other possibilities [long]

I would suspect the SMW 403's are the same type options that the Steel crank
option 455's were, HD towing package in the full size cars, with some
obscure options.  

And I would suspect the SMW 403's were cast in 1976, when they were not used
in any car yet.  The Buick's also got Olds engines, so maybe look for a 77
Custom Cruiser/Estate wagon with the 403, HD towing, etc.

Also, there were only 700 403 powered Cutlasi in 77, maybe that is where
they went?  Anyone ever crack open a 403 from a 77 Cutlass??

Ok, on odd models for 77, the 403 in the XS Toro.  Did they?  Was it the
computer controlled 403's in the Toro's that had it?  Or just maybe the
replacement 403's from the dealers?  

Something must click....They would not do a casting one way then change for
no reason.  There MUST be a reason they cast them SMW for a short time.  To
figure out why and find them.  Was there some odd racing program then for
Olds?  

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 10:44:31 -0600
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: WAS: Husky G-bodies weight of gas

I have been told by my dad that avgas is 6 lbs per gallon.  In aviation, you
pump it in the tanks in Gal, and take it out in lbs.  Go figure....

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 11:53:34 EST
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: Re: body shop est.

>Sounds like a good deal. What time you open?

Nights, weekends, holidays, and anytime i am not at work
											
Rich

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 11:14:12 -0600
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE:  Aluminum hoods and accesory

I personally have only seen 88/98/Custom Cruiser and Cutlass' with Aluminum
hoods, and they were all Diesel powered US cars.

A friend of mine had a 79 98 4dr with one, a 81 CC with one and I have seen
the G-Body diesel in a boneyard with one.  Wish I had one now!

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 11:21:15 -0600
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Husky B-G-bodies (Was: Re: 5300LBS)

My 1976 Delta 88 Royale 4 door, weighed in at 4860 lbs, no passengers, and
1/2 tank gas.  I had to weigh it for each axle, as it was too long wheelbase
to fit the scale all at once!  (Made for a semis, 2 axles at a time)

So add 6 200 lbs passengers, and the rated 200 lbs cargo......

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 11:29:02 -0600
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Torque Converter Swap Backyard-Tech

Like my T/A, same car, same converter, swapped in a 70 455 Pontiac, and the
1800 rpm stall with the 301 and turbocharger got me to 2200-2300 with the
455, but I realized that kept dropping in RPM, then I looked at my rear
brakes, that is HELL on em!!  9in drums don't get it!! Time for 11in disc!

My 455 got me to 60 mph tire speed (posi, of course, 3.08 gears, 275 60
15's) into second gear, held it for about 30 seconds, just smoking the
tires!  In reverse, at ANY speed up to redline (which is 50 mph) I can just
blow away the tires.  

I would say the indian gods were smiling on this poncho that day....

Olds Content:  I ALMOST put in an 68 Olds 455, but I found the 70 Pontiac
455 from a Hearse and it was an easier bolt in.....

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 12:49:05 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: SMW 403 hunt  [WAS: diesel stroker and other possibilities [long] ]

According to the FAQ there were 3 SMW 403's. Casting nos. 557265, 553990,
and 554900.
Does anyone have evidence to disprove this?

Dorian, are both of your 403's cast with 557265?
 
Hopefully Thomas and the FAQ are correct about 1977 being the beast with the
solid main webs.

Which other cars in '77 came with a 403? 
What I've found in my chilton's manual is that the full-size Buick, 88,  98,
cutlass, Toro, full size Pontiac, and grand prix all had 403's. Which one of
these would have been the best candidate for the SMW 403?

A thought:  There had to be a reason why olds engineers decided to quit
making the solids and opted for the windowed web design. Weight? Problems?
Cost savings to have one setup for casting blocks?
It would be good to find out where they are and why the discontinuation.  


Donny Arnold
w.d.arnold@lmco.com

72  Olds 442  
41 Chevy 
63 Chevy Truck





> ----------
> From: 	Martin Thomas-WLTM07[SMTP:Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Tuesday, December 29, 1998 11:43 AM
> To: 	'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject: 	Re: diesel stroker and other possibilities [long]
> 
> I would suspect the SMW 403's are the same type options that the Steel
> crank
> option 455's were, HD towing package in the full size cars, with some
> obscure options.  
> 
> And I would suspect the SMW 403's were cast in 1976, when they were not
> used
> in any car yet.  The Buick's also got Olds engines, so maybe look for a 77
> Custom Cruiser/Estate wagon with the 403, HD towing, etc.
> 
> Also, there were only 700 403 powered Cutlasi in 77, maybe that is where
> they went?  Anyone ever crack open a 403 from a 77 Cutlass??
> 
> Ok, on odd models for 77, the 403 in the XS Toro.  Did they?  Was it the
> computer controlled 403's in the Toro's that had it?  Or just maybe the
> replacement 403's from the dealers?  
> 
> Something must click....They would not do a casting one way then change
> for
> no reason.  There MUST be a reason they cast them SMW for a short time.
> To
> figure out why and find them.  Was there some odd racing program then for
> Olds?  
> 
> Thomas Martin
> 80 Turbo Trans AM
> 85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
> 91 Bonneville LE 3800
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 10:51:25 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Husky G-bodies (Was: Re: 5300LBS)

Greg Pruett wrote:
> <snip>
> Wonder how much 16 gallons of gas weighs anyway.

I would guess about 93.76 lbs.

- -- 
Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 13:13:04 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: HP ratings between auto to 4sp.

Hi all

I have a queation.  I know that the horse power ratings for all cars are
higher with a standard transmission.  
My question is:  How much horsepower does the different transmissions use. 
Comparing Th350 to Th400 to 4 speed.
It makes sense that the larger automatic transmission would use or rob
horse power at a greater rate then the th350.  Does anyone have any usuable
numbers on these differnces.
I have read that the 68 442 was rated at 320 hp. with a th400 and that the
4 speed gave a rating of 350 hp.  Problem I see using the factory
differences is the factory never realeased exact numbers for HP.

Any help on this would be appreciated.

Thanks


Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 13:25:10 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: HP ratings between auto to 4sp.

higher hp ratings mostly come from different camshafts for the sticks than the
automatics. Automatics from the factory did not go well with the longer
duration cams that came with the stick cars. You could get the same cam as a
stick car but most of the time you had to opt for no air conditioning. do to
low vacuum from the more radical cam.   Harry, NJ    73 Olds Cutlass 455/4spd
, 8,900 orig. miles

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 12:24:01 -0600
From: "Darrin Johnson" <xdarrinj@ti.com>
Subject: Small block head swap

I am considering replacing my #8 heads with a set of 7a or 7 heads.  I know
of a local junkyard that has a set of each.  The problem is that both of
these engines have been directly exposed to the weather for at least six
months.  Both pair of heads are still bolted to the engines (one without
intake manifold, one with intake but no carb).   Should I keep looking, or
would these be worth considering?  I don?t want to spend a whole lot of
money on small block heads since I am considering a 455 swap for a year or
two down the road.

Darrin
djohnsn@ibm.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 13:39:31 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: HP ratings between auto to 4sp.

Bob

        For the most part Olds installed bigger cams in their stick cars vice
the automatics.

Jim Chermack


At 01:13 PM 12/29/98 , you wrote:
>Hi all
>
>I have a queation.  I know that the horse power ratings for all cars are
>higher with a standard transmission.  
>My question is:  How much horsepower does the different transmissions use. 
>Comparing Th350 to Th400 to 4 speed.
>It makes sense that the larger automatic transmission would use or rob
>horse power at a greater rate then the th350.  Does anyone have any usuable
>numbers on these differnces.
>I have read that the 68 442 was rated at 320 hp. with a th400 and that the
>4 speed gave a rating of 350 hp.  Problem I see using the factory
>differences is the factory never realeased exact numbers for HP.
>
>Any help on this would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks
>
>
>Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
>Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 14:08:46 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Aluminum hoods and accesory

The aluminum hoods were also common on the 1980 Custom Cruiser with gas
engines and a heavy option load.  Some of the big wagons also got a
fiberglass tailgate.
Regards,
Fred
- -----Original Message-----
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, December 29, 1998 12:15 PM
Subject: RE: Aluminum hoods and accesory


>I personally have only seen 88/98/Custom Cruiser and Cutlass' with Aluminum
>hoods, and they were all Diesel powered US cars.
>
>A friend of mine had a 79 98 4dr with one, a 81 CC with one and I have seen
>the G-Body diesel in a boneyard with one.  Wish I had one now!
>
>Thomas Martin
>80 Turbo Trans AM
>85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
>91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 14:19:08 -0500
From: Brian Kerr <bkerr@golden.net>
Subject: Re: body shop est.

I did  a color change on mine, and the cost of hardeners, reducers, epoxy
primer, urethane primer surfacer, 4 litres of semigloss black, 6 litres of
base,  4 litres of clear coat, all top of line RM Basf products, would set a
person back $1300 canadian. Plus body work, plus prep time, paint time etc.
$4000 for a top class job is not unrealistic.

Brian Kerr
69 Cutlass Conv

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 14:23:38 EST
From: Lou0118@aol.com
Subject: Re: headlights help

In a message dated 12/29/98 10:49:17 AM Eastern Standard Time,
todd@wvadventures.net writes:

<< im needing the adjustment screws to adjust the head lights can i get these
 at an auto parts store or is it a dealer item mine is stripped out thanx 
 
 Todd >>


You should be able to get them in an auto parts store.  I believe Pep Boys
carries them.  There is a section in the store with many dealer type parts
called "HELP".  They are usually vacuum packed on red cardboard.

Hope this helps.

Lou Principe
69 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 14:29:12 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: more MC leak

Bruce,

There are two ways of bench bleeding a master cylinder.  Best done off the
car in my experience, as the cylinder mounts at an angle on some cars which
can trap air.

Method #1
Plug both ports (screw in metal fittings are best, but it is possible to
hold the rubber plugs that typically come with a new cylinder in place)
Fill with brake fluid.
With top cover off, stroke the piston until air ceases to be expelled from
the ports in the bottom of the reservoir.
If you have a vice, you can clamp the cylinder in the vise and use a wood
rod to stroke the cylinder.  If no vice is handy, I have resorted to holding
the cylinder against my hip or abdomen and placing the wood rod against a
convenient brick wall to stroke the piston.

Method #2
Screw bleeder lines into the ports.  These run from the ports up to the
reservoir.  (Can be purchased or easily made from lines taken from a junk
car.) Fill with brake fluid.  Make sure the bleeder lines are submerged in
the fluid.  Stroke the piston as above, only you are watching for no more
air from the ends of the lines rather than the ports in the bottom of the
reservoir.

Both methods work fine, but method 2 requires much less effort as the
pressure is vented by the lines.  Failing to bench bleed can make it very
hard to get a firm pedal on the car.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 15:04:18 -0600
From: steven@purplemonkey.com (Steven Saraceno)
Subject: Coating Aluminum

- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BE333C.82D4EFC0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Just had my W-27 bead blasted.  Looks fantastic.   Does anyone have any =
advice on how to keep it looking this good?   Can I coat it with clear =
high temp lacquer or something else.  What about the Intake, should I do =
the same to that or just leave them uncoated and keep them clean?

Steven
70 W-30 convertible

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 16:18:43 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Small block head swap

In a message dated 12/29/98 10:28:07 AM Pacific Standard Time, xdarrinj@ti.com
writes:

<<  Should I keep looking, or
 would these be worth considering?  I don?t want to spend a whole lot of
 money on small block heads since I am considering a 455 swap for a year or
 two down the road. >>

     I would think if the price was right, you could take them off, visually
inspect them, then take them to a machine shop to have them cleaned up..around
$75 for disassemble/clean/valve job here.  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 16:18:19 EST
From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Subject: Bumpers, cams, and toys

Hi all,

Well, I'm back again.  It's been a while since I've s*bscribed to the
list.  Time constraints made it almost impossible for me to check my
email on a regular basis, so I was either uns*bscribed by  Greg B. when
my mailbox started bouncing, ar I uns*bscribed myself (I can't remember
which, but Greg might!)

ANYWAY...I have a few topics of discussion for you fine Oldsmobile
folk...First, I need a front bumper, grilles, and bumper brackets for my
'69 Olds Cutlass Supreme.  I was in an accident just tonight, thus
prompting my resubscription to the list.  Anybody who has a line on these
items (NOS not needed or even really wanted, just decent used parts will
do), please email me ~PRIVATELY~ at dpauliso@juno.com.  I would
appreciate any leads.

Second, I have decided to finally do some major work on my Olds.  It
really needs it.  I need to do the suspension, front and rear.  The front
has all poly-raz-ma-tazz bushings in it, I just need a drag link and four
tie rod ends, springs and shocks.  No big deal, really!  The rear is what
I have questions about.   I would like to get lower boxed control arms
for it, but I don't know if it would be a waste of my money, considering
the following:  The engine (original 350/1970 Pontiac Ram-Air 400 Q-jet)
will see a very close to stock rebuild.  Maybe a .010 over bore to make
the cylinders round again, original spec rods and pistons (+.010, of
course), headers and dual exhaust, possibly an aluminum dual plane
intake, and an ever-so-slightly-hotter than stock cam (more modern grind,
perhaps a little more power, with good vacuum, idle, & gas mileage), put
in a points replacement unit, and convert to an internally regulated
alternator.  The tranny (TH350) has a fresh rebuild, stock with a B&M
shift kit (wonderful shifts!), and a new stock convertor.   I will retain
the original (code R2, 2.56) peg-leg rear.  Will the boxed lowers provide
any benefit, or is it a waste of my money?  The car will certainly never
see a track while I own it; it's a four door being rebuilt with "family
car" in mind (much more reliable and much cheaper than a new econo-box
Malibu [see below]).  The body work and interior are being worked on a
little at a time; for now I'm concentrating on the drive train of the car
(which is not really that bad for 210,000+ miles).  Any cam suggestions
would be appreciated, also.

Third, please let me know about the rumor (truth?) of the Cutlass being
discontinued.  It's a shame, if true, but it's really not the same car,
anyway.  They remind me of the Chevy (curses!) Malibu...you know, the
"car you knew America could build".  Yeah, I always knew they could build
one that is indistinguishable from a Camry/Maxima/929.  And now they've
done it.  Boy, that's great.  I sure am proud.

Fourth and finally, anybody who is interested in Olds toys, please send
me a line at dpauliso@juno.com.  I have only recently begun collecting
Olds related toys specifically, (though I have been collecting Hot Wheels
& Matchbox of all kinds for the last few years) and I would enjoy hearing
from anybody who collects or would like to sell/buy/trade Olds toys.

Anyhoo, any comments, good or bad, on the above would be appreciated, and
if it's something the whole list doesn't need to see, please, oh please
send it to only me at dpauliso@juno.com.

Dave Paulison                    1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida                1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

 

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 16:26:56 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: SMW 403 hunt  [WAS: diesel stroker and other possibilities [long] 
]

In a message dated 12/29/98 9:50:02 AM Pacific Standard Time,
w.d.arnold@lmco.com writes:

<< Dorian, are both of your 403's cast with 557265? >>

     I've only got one block, but it is a '77, and I no longer have the block
at my house, its at the machine shop. I do remember looking the number up and
seeing it was out of the Firebird and Bonnevilles, and maybe another one or
two other cars. My guess was that if the SMW 403's went into anything, it
would have been the High Performance marine usage, where I would expect much
higher RPM's than in a car. That was my only guess as to where they would have
used them. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 16:29:20 EST
From: R4C442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Coating Aluminum

Hey Steven!
    Eastwood makes a clear coat for aluminum that really does the trick
(unless you're really into polishing aluminum). As a matter of fact, I even
used it on my N97 chrome wheels as well as every other polished aluminum part.

                                                               Ron Forsee
                                                               65 442-Meister

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 13:21:18 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Coating aluminum

>Just had my W-27 bead blasted.  Looks fantastic.   Does anyone have any
>advice on how to keep it looking this good?   Can I coat it with clear high
>temp lacquer or something else.  What about the Intake, should I do the same
>to that or just leave them uncoated and keep them clean?

Steven
70 W-30 convertible




Steven,
For protecting aluminum parts from oxidizing,
I always use a silicone spray.  I don't mean
WD40 or such, just plain silicone spray
(CRC and others offer this).  This provides
a very natural looking finish (as opposed
to clear paints).  And it is very easy to
clean.  All you need to do to clean is 
spray on brake cleaner, wipe off and 
reapply the silicone spray.  I have been
doing this for years on aluminum parts    
(alternator housings, starter nose cones, etc.).     
For an aluminum intake manifold (or your W-27), 
silicone spray is the only way to go.  
 

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Web site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 16:39:05 EST
From: Cutw29@aol.com
Subject: RearEnd Clarification

Hello all.  I've got a question about the rearend in my 72 Cutlass "S."  Since
it is a 72 I know that it isn't the Type "O" axle.  My question is what is the
size of the ring gear?  I want to put in new gears and I need to know what
size I have to order.  Any info. is greatly appreciated!

Steve 
CutW29@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 17:47:10 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: diesel stroker and other possibilities [long]

On Tue, 29 Dec 1998, Martin Thomas-WLTM07 wrote:
> Something must click....They would not do a casting one way then change for
> no reason.  There MUST be a reason they cast them SMW for a short time.  To
> figure out why and find them.  Was there some odd racing program then for
> Olds?  

From what I recall, the small block Olds was redesigned for the '77 model
year. The 350 in '77 and up is different from those that came before in
some ways -- including the bottom end. Some of that might be due to an
attempt to save weight, or might also be due to the development of the
diesel program. But you ask a good question. It seems strange that they
would design a new engine in the 403 and then make a fairly significant
change almost right away. Maybe it is just rumor about these things. 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 16:58:15 -0500
From: "Erik Gertsen" <ainode@frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: Aluminum hoods and accesory

would a similarly optioned GM have any of these? i am im posession
(unfortunately) of a chev estate wagon, with every option on it except power
rear tailgate opener and that auto climate control.
and a realy nice rebuilt th350, come to think of it. hmm.
Erik Gertsen
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Frederick Nissen <FSNissen@Worldnet.ATT.NET>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, December 29, 1998 2:08 PM
Subject: Re: Aluminum hoods and accesory


>The aluminum hoods were also common on the 1980 Custom Cruiser with gas
>engines and a heavy option load.  Some of the big wagons also got a
>fiberglass tailgate.
>Regards,
>Fred
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
>To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Date: Tuesday, December 29, 1998 12:15 PM
>Subject: RE: Aluminum hoods and accesory
>
>
>>I personally have only seen 88/98/Custom Cruiser and Cutlass' with
Aluminum
>>hoods, and they were all Diesel powered US cars.
>>
>>A friend of mine had a 79 98 4dr with one, a 81 CC with one and I have
seen
>>the G-Body diesel in a boneyard with one.  Wish I had one now!
>>
>>Thomas Martin
>>80 Turbo Trans AM
>>85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
>>91 Bonneville LE 3800
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 17:34:25 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: HP ratings between auto to 4sp.

OK I will reword my question.
Take a 455 with 365 hp.  If you calculate rear wheel horse power its around
285 approx.  
Now a drive shaft is suposed to steal away 10 hp. per foot.  The rear end
eats up 40 - 50 hp.
My question was how much hp. does the different transmission eat up in hp. 
Does a 4 speed take less to drive the a th350 and a th400.??  And what are
the differences??

Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454




- ----------
> From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: HP ratings between auto to 4sp.
> Date: Tuesday, December 29, 1998 1:39 PM
> 
> Bob
> 
>         For the most part Olds installed bigger cams in their stick cars
vice
> the automatics.
> 
> Jim Chermack
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 17:33:01 -0500
From: "CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Disk Brake Conversion Kit

Hello Family;

For those that have lately inquired about front disk brake conversions, I
ran across this link. It's to Inline Tube co.

They offer a complete conversion kit for the '64 - '72 A-body. They come in
manual or power, with or without complete stainless steel plumbing kit. The
visual on the power booster (included) is a neat little version that looks
to be right for the valve cover clearance problems on a big block car.

http://www.inlinetube.com/sld008.htm

Have a Happy and Safe New Year!
- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
ICQ# 5209322
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

Custom Prototype Project site:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

Send Project Questions To:
mailto:info@CC-IROC-SS.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 18:22:42 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: body shop est.

In a message dated 12/29/98 1:20:13 AM Central Standard Time,
PETTRIX@prodigy.net writes:

<< I am curious, did you paint the whole car, or just a section? I am not
 trying to be mean but you claim that you painted a car for $300.00 and it
 came out "perfect". I find that hard to believe. Then again, what is your
 definition of "perfect". What type of paint did you use? I know good
 quality pant such as DuPont can cost $200.00 a gallon for the basecoat.
 Then you must buy the clear and the reducers and hardeners for both. What
 about primer and sanding paper? You did sand the car didn't you? I hope so
 because I wouldn't wash the car because the paint will peel off.
 
 Again I am not trying to be a jerk, I feel that a post claiming a "perfect"
 paint job costing $300.00 is not only ridiculous but a blatant lie. Why not
 post a pic of the car on the net and maybe we can get a "general idea" of
 what "perfect" is. 
  >>


    I think it is definately with-in reason to get a decent paint job , doing
it yourself, for around $300 in materials( $300 in materials doesn't mean
guns, compressors, paintbooth, or intangiables).  I have done several paint
jobs using Dupont and 3M supplies exclusively and NEVER have I spent over
$1000 on supplies. NOT EVEN CLOSE!!!!!!!!! I last painted my wifes 66 Mustang
(it is a Gold Medal winner), and the cost of paint is as follows...1 gl.
Dupont Delstar Acrylic Enamel (Candy Apple Red...per data plate): $95, 1 gl.
8090S Dupont Enamel reducer(med. temp.): $45, Dupont Red Oxide primer/sealer
1qt.: $45, 1 gl. Dupont laquear thinner ( for primer and cleanup) : $30,
Dupont DXR80 Hardner/gloss retention additive: $40.
 As you can read from my trip to the paint store to buy materials for our
award winning Mustang, it is possible to buy the materials for way less than
you think. 
  I think that you must either be VERY gulable, or else you work for a paint
shop and are trying to keep the illusion that the overpriced quotes are
"normal". 
   The reason that Earl Sheib can quote a paint job so cheap, is they don't
remove trim...they tape over it. They also do not strip paint off before
painting...they scuff the old paint , primer the rusted areas, then recoat.
  As for "not washing the car for fear of paint falling off"...we washed ours
the very next day...AFTER DRIVING 150 MILES TO GET TO THE TOWN OF A SHOW!!!!!
   While,no, we didn't win best of show , or even first place, at that show,
we did get an honorable mention. After returning home, we proceded to "block
out" the paints minor orange peel, and do the three stage rub out thing (where
the real art is in painting...again very little cost, just lots of labor). We
have since then never entered a show without recieveing a "Gold Ribbon". 
 

      This is not a slam on you, just a letter in defense of the guy you were
slamming!

      It IS possible to paint a car on a budget and get show quality results.
You just have to spend the money and time on the aspects of painting that give
the results. 
Do you really think that in this "max profit/bottom line" world GM would use
the best paints in their factories...I doubt it! They use the cheapest sh*t
that'll cover the metal. 

   Collyn Eastham

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1690
*********************************

