Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1628


oldsmobile-digest     Thursday, November 26 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1628



Re: Car Craft (was hate"C"cars)
Re: 2 Speed to TH350 swap
thanksgiving
Re: Olds model kit news.
Re: 2 Speed to TH350 swap
Christmas Wish List
Re: 493 Mondello Olds ?
Re: Christmas Wish List
will be out of town for the long weekend...returning monday
Re: Engine TICK (noise), HELP ASAP
Re: 2 Speed to TH350 swap
Re: 72 442 Fender Emblem location
Re: 455 Buildup
HAPPY THANKSGIVING
Re: 493 Mondello Olds ?
Re: Engine TICK (noise), HELP ASAP
Re: 2 Speed to TH350 swap
Re: W-27
Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400
Re: New
Setting the timing?????????????
Re: Pontiac Engines ( I know, I know)
[Fwd: A New Supreme Owner]
Re: 2 Speed to TH350 swap
Re: 2 Speed to TH350 swap
Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400
Chrome needed for 67 Cutlass Convertible
Chromeplating, polishing....
Re: Christmas Wish List
Re: [Fwd: A New Supreme Owner]
Re: Engine TICK part II(noise), HELP ASAP
Have a Happy Holiday
1947 Olds Custom Cruiser: Anyone have one?
Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400
discountperformance.com
Re: Christmas Wish List
Gas Gauge Blues
Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400
Re: 1947 Olds Custom Cruiser: Anyone have one?
3.0 to 3.8/4.1 swap
Re: Engine TICK part II(noise), HELP ASAP
no more mail
Re: Engine TICK part II(noise), HELP ASAP
71 442 questions
'69 98 for parts
Cam Question Again
Weatherstriping
Re: trim rechroming ?
Re: New Member
Re: Weatherstriping
Starfire choke
Re: New Member
painting grill
Re: Starfire choke

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 09:32:47 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: Car Craft (was hate"C"cars)

Excellent choice Igor!  Car Craft's new editor Friedburger(I think) is
awesome and is probably our only chance for a true buildup story.  They have
had some real cool stories recently.  It is the best non make specific
magazine out there today.  Who else has the guts to actually test general
performance theories.  For example the did side by side comparison of 2.25
exhaust vs. 3 inch exhaust and found basically no difference for a street
driven less than 400 horse(don't quote me on that number) motor.  Instead of
pushing different brand names they give the straight skinny.  I am going to
e-Mail them to get them to compare exhaust manifold to header and see what
the real gain is, if any!  I truly believe this Mag is also our best shot at
Olds stories.

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
>
>>Craft and Hot Rod.  There are so many Camaros and Novas and such.
>
>I sent them a E-mail about a Heavy Metal Delta, or a Cheap street Cutlass,
>but no response.  Send them E-mail asking for more OLDS content, not Joe
>Mondello build-up, but a true buildup by the magazine.  Their e-mail is:
>carcraft@petersenpub.com
>
>Igor

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 09:35:09 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: 2 Speed to TH350 swap

Is it a powerglide 2 speed?

- -----Original Message-----

>
>Before I spend the money on it, I'd like to drop the 2 speed and replace it
>with a TH350 auto.  Will I need to have the drive shaft
>shortened/lengthened?  Differences in linkage?
>
>'68 Cutlass
>
>-Loris
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 10:26:18 -0200
From: BRIAN SHANKLE <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: thanksgiving

Happy Thanksgiving to all!

Thanks to all who have helped me with my random carburetor problems,
whether real or imagined, and by doing so have saved me the expense and
trouble of going to a carb shop.  You guys are great.

Brian.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 10:37:22 -0500
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Olds model kit news.

Mark et al,
Here are a few more updates on the subject:

AMT/Ertl 66 442 W-30 hardtop 1/25 model kit release date January 99
*** This will be AMT stock # 6268DO, according to AMT it IS released.

AMT/Ertl 66 442 convertible 1/25 model kit
*** This will be AMT stock # 6275DO, accodring to AMT, not released yet.

Ertl 1/43 '70 Olds 442 (Astro Blue)
*** This will be Ertl stock # 32105, according to Ertl not released yet

Ertl 1/43 Class of 1970 3-Car Set - 442 Convertible (gold/black
stripes), Nova SS (green), Torino Cobra (red)
*** This will be Ertl stock # 32003, according to Ertl not released yet

Johnny Lightning Hurst Hairy Olds 1/24 diecast and 1/64th diecast
release Dec98/Jan99
*** I don't know about the 1/24, but the 1/64 is out now, to see a
picture of it go to http://www.erols.com/old442/jl-hho.jpg

- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
OCA# 30442

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 11:17:09 EST
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: 2 Speed to TH350 swap

what kind of car are you working on????

the 350 should bolt up to the motor like the 2 sp..

drive shaft prob the same...

the quadrant on the dash will be different  where it says n.d.L.
l  you will prob be driving in n now



jeff

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 11:55:28 -0200
From: BRIAN SHANKLE <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Christmas Wish List

Here we go with the Christmas Wish List, those presents to Brian from
Brian.  If anyone has these parts availible for purchase or knows a
salvage yard within a couple of hours from central New Jersey which has
these parts, please E-Mail me on how to get these.  All of the following
will be for a 1986 Cutlass Supreme Brougham, sort of cranberry colored,
with a 307 Y engine and the dark maroon Brougham interior, unless
otherwise noted.

1.  Leather wrapped steering wheel (hahaha) in restorable condition or
an undamaged standard platic one.  Mine has cracks in all the standard
places.

2.  Maroon Driver-side floor mat

3.  interior lights for the back seat passengers--usually only availible
in the T-Top cars, and there sure aren't too many of those in the
junkyards!
 
4.  a known-to-be-good power antenna assembly (extremely rare in used
condition)

5.  fender mounted headlight moniter lamps--the options list mentions
availibilty for these in the rear, what are they talking about?

that about does it for my wish list, unless someone knows where I can
get two rust free doors w/ power locks and windows in this color. 
that's nearly impossible, which is why I didn't bother to put it on the
"official" list! 
Thanks,
Brian.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 11:17:57 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Re: 493 Mondello Olds ?

Arnold, W D wrote:

> I just read an article in a older POP. HOT ROD. magazine about a 493.
> It states that it *should* make 500 HP and 525 T .  Has anyone seen an
> article or had experience testing one of the set-ups?
>
> Seems to me 500 HP / 525 T is low considering what all he did to this
> engine. I think if a person done the same build up to a 455 (without the
> offset grinding and buick rods), he'd have at least as much power, if not
> more.
> This extra stroke must decrease the V.E.(Volumetric Effic.) of the 455.  I
> wonder(hmmm...) if you destroked a 455 would it's V.E. be better??
> For an example: A chevy 327 will usually make a little more HP and about the
> same Torque as a Chevy 350 with all parts equal.
>
> Offset grinding the crank ain't a bad idea for some engines but I have my
> doubts about the olds. Plus it's $225 just to grind the crank and you still
> have to buy Buick rods.
> On top of that you are limited to 5500 rpm.
>
> Donny

Donny,

I just had a 485 stroker built by Mondello. It's the same stroke but less bore
than the 493 and mine is set up for all-out drag racing and not a 5500 rpm
torque monster.

Granted mine has hogged out Batten aluminum heads and intake, 1050 Dominator
(now flowing 1350cfm), a huge by large roller cam, 2-1/4" headers, 13.6:1 CR, 
7"
C&A rods and a lot of other good stuff, but it's VE really surprised me, it
averaged 101.8 from 5500 to 7000 rpm. Corrected horsepower peak was 695.1 at
6500 rpm and corrected torque was 602 at 5500 rpm.

This was all done (unknowingly) with a spun (or should I say spinning) cam
bearing. These figures were from the second, (and last) pull on the dyno. 
During
the last pull the oil pressure fluctuated between only 40 and 50# at WOT so we
didn't pull it any more. Very worried what was going on inside of the metal and
aluminum monster we tore it down to find the spun cam bearing. Ah-ha no wonder
we had no oil pressure.

Anyway back to the VE deal. Just my opinion, but I think "IF" the bb Olds has
poor VE (I don't know anything about it except what my race motor showed) it 
may
in part be due to the  rod to stroke ratio. The longer the stroke the longer 
the
connecting needs to be to have a good ratio. I believe the optimal ratio is
1.7:1 (not positive), and a stock 455 is 1.60:1. A 455 would need a 7.25" long
rod to have the optimal ratio. With a longer rod the piston is kept at TDC for 
a
longer period of time giving more time to burn the fuel while it's under
compression or exhaust the burnt gasses. With the having more time to burn and
exhaust gasses the VE should be better. I may be proving myself wrong because 
my
ratio is even worse than a stock 455 and my VE is pretty good. It may be
something totally different or a combination of several things that make for
volumetrically efficient car.

I'll put my money on the last half of the previous sentence.

I am by no means an expert at this stuff, it's just my opinion. I am sure that
there a lot more knowledgeable people on this wonderful list that know more
about or can explain this better than I can. Heck I may even be proven totally
wrong.

If anyone wants a copy of my dyno sheet let me know and I'll email it to you
privately. It's the real numbers but I had to type it into my word processor
because the original print is too faint to copy or fax well.

Sorry I rambled so long. I feel like I just took you all on 3 hour drive and
never got out of the driveway.

Shane Gibreal
'67 Cutlass convertible
'67 Cutlass Supreme - drag

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 09:26:04 -0800 (PST)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Christmas Wish List

- ---BRIAN SHANKLE <cshankle@home.com> wrote:

> Here we go with the Christmas Wish List, those presents to Brian from
> Brian.  If anyone has these parts availible for purchase, please
E-Mail me on how to get these.  

> 1.  Leather wrapped steering wheel (hahaha) in restorable condition or
> an undamaged standard platic one.  Mine has cracks in all the standard
> places.

- ------lots of luck....I've got a blue one I'm restoring :)
> 
> 2.  Maroon Driver-side floor mat

- -----might get those at  ACC...in Anniston....nice carpet kits and
mats..very ggod quailty.
> 
> 3.  interior lights for the back seat passengers--usually only
availible
> in the T-Top cars, and there sure aren't too many of those in the
> junkyards!

- -----Got some....attached to blue panels....
>  
> 4.  a known-to-be-good power antenna assembly (extremely rare in used
> condition)

- ----sorry about this one....can't help.....
> 
> 5.  fender mounted headlight moniter lamps--the options list mentions
> availibilty for these in the rear, what are they talking about?

- ----got some front mount ones.coming ~off~ the bruise soon......and
the rear ones...they were mounted in the center of the top rear
window....so you could see from the rear-view mirror....the bruise has
these also..
> 
> that about does it for my wish list, unless someone knows where I can
> get two rust free doors w/ power locks and windows in this color. 
> that's nearly impossible, which is why I didn't bother to put it on
the
> "official" list!

- -------might not be hard as you think....plenty in Ga :) 

           Later,





==
John McJunkin ( The Sman ) mailto:super442@yahoo.com  
  ICQ # 16956740      Lithia Springs, Ga.
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442 
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts    
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 12:31:03 -0500
From: Jim Olson <jolson@edzone.net>
Subject: will be out of town for the long weekend...returning monday

unsubscribe please

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 19:41:33 +0200
From: "Jaak Ruusmaa" <jaak@anet.ee>
Subject: Re: Engine TICK (noise), HELP ASAP

Hello

By your description everything points toward the lifters if the TIC-TIC is
in a even rhythm. The lifter itself might be in a good condition, but if you
rebuilded your engine and did not flushed or cleaned all the scrap out of
the engine block, heads, lifters especially oil canals, then it might be it.
The scrap might be suddenly blocking the oil canal of the lifter, after some
mileage. Other things might be the camshaft or rocker arm, but then the TIC
should always be there. Or the worst thing might be the piston.

jaak@anet.ee

- -----Original Message-----
From: Igor T. '81 DRB 455 <igor455@home.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, November 26, 1998 4:55 AM
Subject: Engine TICK (noise), HELP ASAP


>My Motor is starting to really PISS me off.  Today, I was at the bodyshop
>again working on my car.  When I went to start it up and back it out, when
>the motor started there was this loud TIC-TIC-TIC coming from the motor.
It
>is the same tick that I had from the first week of rebuild, but usually it
>is so faint, only I can hear it.  Oil pressure was right on.  I let it warm
>up and the tic went away.  WHY WOULD IT start ticking all of a sudden.
>Later, I restarted it (when it cooled a bit) and there was no tick.  The
>motor has 500 miles and a few hours of idling.  The car has not been driven
>(really) for about 2.5 months now.  It has been started though.  WHAT THE
>HELL COULD IT BE.  I am thinking lifters as it sounded like on of the #1
>piston lifters.  What other noise would go away after about 1.5 minutes of
>idling.  I took the car for a spin, and it still roasts the tires and goes
>pretty good.  However, I am vary concerned.  When I installed the lifters,
I
>put cam-lube on the bottom of them, and then put oil on the sides and
dipped
>them in.  Later (after initial start), I read that I should have soaked
them
>in oil, and then pre-loaded them with a pushrod, but I never did this.  It
>ran fine, and there was no lifter noise (maybe vary faint) until now.  Is
it
>the lifters?  Thanks.  The motor is a '76 455.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 11:52:24 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 2 Speed to TH350 swap

>what kind of car are you working on????
>
>the 350 should bolt up to the motor like the 2 sp..
>
>drive shaft prob the same...
>
>the quadrant on the dash will be different  where it says n.d.L.
>l  you will prob be driving in n now
>
Actually you will probably be able to adjust it so that all the gears
align but you may loose low (PRNDL to PRND2L) but for most
driving you never use it anyway.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 12:57:39 EST
From: RAC5419@aol.com
Subject: Re: 72 442 Fender Emblem location

In a message dated 98-11-26 02:32:21 EST, you write:

<< I was wondering if someone could find out the EXACT measurement of where
 the 442 fender emblem location should be. A measurement from the fender
 side and fender bottom should be good. This would be on a 72.
 
 
 Pettrix@prodigy.net >>
- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -----------------------------------------
On my 72 442 convertible the bottom of the numbers are 14.25" from the bottom
of the fender. The distance from the side to the bottom of the numbers is
3.125" to the bottom of the 2, 5.5" to the bottom of the 4 and 7.625" to the
bottom of the 1st 4. Since  the fender curves I also measured to the top of
the numbers. Take .125 off of each of the above.
                                                       _____ 3"
                                           4   4   2 ______ 3.125"
                                                     |
                                                     | 
                                                     | 14.25"

Dick Compton
72 442 Convertible

                                    
                         

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 12:14:53 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 455 Buildup

>
>My question about valve springs refers to the re-use of them along with cam
>with stock lift or under .5 inch.  In
>several previous rebuilds I have simply reused valve springs without a
>second thought.  Should I get them checked out or assume they are good
since
>they worked great up until now?
>
You should always have the springs checked for a couple of things.  First
you
want to make sure that they are still within spec for spring pressure at
thier
installed height.  Second, if your going to a larger cam you want to ensure
that
at max lift there is not going to be any coil bind.  That is where the cam
is still
trying to open the valve but the spring is at max compression which usually
ends up in bent pushrods.  Even for a stock rebuild when the heads are
redone
they should be checked for the proper installed hieght and the that the
springs
have the right seat pressure at the installed height.


>>      Someone mentioned headers..this is my pet peeve...I hate them.
People
>>ALWAYS have problems with leaks, rust, incorrect fit, impossible to get to
>>plugs, etc. Also, I asked on 2 different lists, if anyone had gone from
>true
>>dual exhaust to headers, and had a time slip from the track to prove it
was
>>faster with headers. Surprise, no one did. You look at header literature
>and
>>they claim anywhere from 15-30 hp gains on the motor. I would be willing
to
>>bet, since THEY don't mention it, is that gain is going from single
exhaust
>to
>>headers..I bet that the difference from true dual to headers is quite
>small,
>>otherwise more car makers, (like GM) would have used them on their
>performance
>>cars in the late 60's early 70's.

Look at all the new performance cars.  Most if not all of them have factory
"shorty" headers not manifolds.  You have to keep in mind that on the
assembly line it has to be easy to put together and headers just aren't.
The
example that pops to mind is the 69 ZL-1 Camaro w/all aluminum 427.  The
factory just slapped a set of cast (I think they were 396) manifolds on them
to get them out the door since all these cars were destined for the
dragstrip
and before they were raced they would have the exhaust removed and
headers installed.  The port mismatch was costing 100 to 150 hp over
headers.


Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 13:30:46 -0500 (EST)
From: jhbII <jh2nlla@noblecan.org>
Subject: HAPPY THANKSGIVING

Just a quick hello and THANKS!!! I am Thankful for this list and Bob
Schinkel for telling me about it. I am THANKFUL for all the support and
freinds I have met through this list. I am THANKFUL that I LOVE and OWN
OLDSMOBILES!!!!!!!      LONG LIVE THE ROCKET!!!!!!!!!! HAPPY
THANKSGIVING<everyone and a belated one to "OUR" neighbors to the North.
PEACE,Jack

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 12:36:07 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 493 Mondello Olds ?

What caused you to lose oil pressure and spin the cam bearing? Just curious
because my 455 spun the #3 cam bearing, which spun and seized to the cam
itself. My oil pressure would drop at WOT from about 48pds hot to 44pds
hot. When taken apart and the housing bore checked, all was within specs. I
believe mine was caused from NOT ENOUGH LUBE ON INITIAL STARTUP. THe other
3 were fine and I have oil restrictors in #2-3-4. The #3 cam bearing was
the only one that spun. 
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
>> This was all done (unknowingly) with a spun (or should I say spinning)
cam
> bearing. These figures were from the second, (and last) pull on the dyno.
During
> the last pull the oil pressure fluctuated between only 40 and 50# at WOT
so we
> didn't pull it any more. Very worried what was going on inside of the
metal and
> aluminum monster we tore it down to find the spun cam bearing. Ah-ha no
wonder
> we had no oil pressure.
> 
> Anyway back to the VE deal. Just my opinion, but I think "IF" the bb Olds
has
> poor VE (I don't know anything about it except what my race motor showed)
it may
> in part be due to the  rod to stroke ratio. The longer the stroke the
longer the
> connecting needs to be to have a good ratio. I believe the optimal ratio
is
> 1.7:1 (not positive), and a stock 455 is 1.60:1. A 455 would need a 7.25"
long
> rod to have the optimal ratio. With a longer rod the piston is kept at
TDC for a
> longer period of time giving more time to burn the fuel while it's under
> compression or exhaust the burnt gasses. With the having more time to
burn and
> exhaust gasses the VE should be better. I may be proving myself wrong
because my
> ratio is even worse than a stock 455 and my VE is pretty good. It may be
> something totally different or a combination of several things that make
for
> volumetrically efficient car.
> 
> I'll put my money on the last half of the previous sentence.
> 
> I am by no means an expert at this stuff, it's just my opinion. I am sure
that
> there a lot more knowledgeable people on this wonderful list that know
more
> about or can explain this better than I can. Heck I may even be proven
totally
> wrong.
> 
> If anyone wants a copy of my dyno sheet let me know and I'll email it to
you
> privately. It's the real numbers but I had to type it into my word
processor
> because the original print is too faint to copy or fax well.
> 
> Sorry I rambled so long. I feel like I just took you all on 3 hour drive
and
> never got out of the driveway.
> 
> Shane Gibreal
> '67 Cutlass convertible
> '67 Cutlass Supreme - drag

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 12:36:37 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Engine TICK (noise), HELP ASAP

>Rockers are new.  I put the old rockers on, but there was a tick.  Then I
>replaced them and the tick was gone (different one).  I did not pump up the
>lifters or soak them in oil.  Could this mean anything.  I will change the
>intake when I get the car back.  Then would be the time to change/check
>lifters.  Should I put new ones on and pump/soak them.  Thanks.
>
Igor,

Try to isolate the noise by using a stethescope to track down the noise.
I just use a long 3/8" extension w/my hands cupped over one end.  Hold
in against your ear and the other on the motor.  Sounds like one of the
lifters is bleeding down and ticks until it pumps back up.  Could also be
that when the heads were redone that the lifter isn't getting the correct
preload on it but is borderline so that after it's fully pumped up it stops
ticking (all lifters will bleed down some after sitting for a day or two).
You don't have to soak the lifters in oil before you put them in.  The best
way to pump them up is to put everything together with the dist out.  Spin
the oil pump through the dist hole while you turn the motor over by hand.
This will prelube the engine and pump up all the lifters.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 13:34:25 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: 2 Speed to TH350 swap

Loris

        It's a bolt in. The drive shaft is the same length and yoke. The
linkage
will all bolt up too. The biggest thing is getting a kickdown cable hooked up.

Jim Chermack

At 11:58 PM 11/25/98 , you wrote:
>Before I spend the money on it, I'd like to drop the 2 speed and replace it
>with a TH350 auto.  Will I need to have the drive shaft
>shortened/lengthened?  Differences in linkage?
>
>'68 Cutlass
>
>-Loris

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 12:46:24 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: W-27

>
>Also does anyone have any hints on how to pull off the aluminum cover. I
>took the bolts off but the sealant is strong and I don't want to damage
>the aluminum.
>
>Steven Saraceno
>70 442 W-30 Convertible
>OCA 021442
>
Thin putty knife and careful use of a hammer.  about the only way to do it.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 12:57:11 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400

Mike, 
Beat S & M, two out of three, match race, of course I had a four speed ,
and a hemi too. He's tough. I'm proud I could do it, those Chrysler 4
speeds, no synchos, with clutch you had to depress to shift, that was a SOB
to operate. we always beat the automatics, but it wasn't bracket racing, it
was b*lls out racing! Have to agree with you, would rather have a five
speed w/air shifter, but--
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

 
- ----------
> From: mbloomer <mbloomer@gateway.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400
> Date: Tuesday, November 24, 1998 7:50 PM
> 
> >  >>
> >     So, let me get this right ;)...The guys wining all the races with
> their
> >Powerglides, and TH-400's could "just be gettin' lucky"?!? I haven't
really
> >heard of too many really fast or consistant cars with 4-speeds.
> >
> >....I have been roustin' 4-speed cars with my 330/350 combo for a couple
> >months now...and I have nailled 99% of my shifts...the 1% was a race
where
> I
> >was runnin' some fool in a Vette...I tried to shift into
> forth...haha!...Damn
> >those things quik...AND fast!
> 
> Nobody ever said that the guys running auto's are getting lucky by
winning.
> It has already been pointed out that auto's are more consistent so that's
> why they dominate bracket racing.  The facts are that it takes more power
to
> turn an automatic and your limited by number of gears.  In an optimized
> combo
> a 4 speed car that has the same wieght, power, etc as yours will smoke
you
> in the quarter just as long as you have a good driver.  Anybody can drive
a
> fast drag car with an auto but it takes true skill to win races with a
> stick.
> Anybody remember Ronnie Sox "Mr. FourSpeed"?  Seem to remember him
> winning races with a 4 speed against people running autos in the late
60's.
> Also look at drag classes that aren't bracket like Pro Stock, Pro Mod,
and
> all
> the NMCA classes.  The big guns usually run Lenco's which is a planetary
> but in the last few years there has been a switch on to clutchless 5
speeds.
> They do use a clutch for staging but go clutchless after launch.  They do
> this
> with straight cut gears and no synchro's and a setup like this would
roast
> your
> TH350.  The key factor in auto's beating 4 speed cars is operator error.
> Call
> up Ronnie and see how you do against him.
> 
> Mike B
> mbloomer@gateway.net
> ICQ# 19113713
> 72 Cutlass S (RIP)
> 68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 13:13:19 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: New

Don, 
There's one OLD drag racer on the list, me. Actually there a lot of them, I
just drive them anymore, I outrun ladies in mini-vans at stop lights now.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
PS They'll be in touch, we have some heavy duty racers on line. 

- ----------
> From: Don Ruder <ruderdj@seanet.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: New
> Date: Tuesday, November 24, 1998 9:18 PM
> 
> Hello, I am new to this list.  Any Olds drag racers on the list?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 14:15:50 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Setting the timing?????????????

I want to ask the list if there's anything different I need to know when it 
come to 
checking and setting the timing on an '86 307 in a 442?? I've been doing it 
for 
years in non-computer cars, but never in the newer computer oriented 
models..!!  

Private responses will be WELCOMED..!!!


Mike
Ironto Va

PS....By the way......HAPPY THANKSGIVING


  "Baby we can talk all night
       But that ain't getting us nowhere.............."
          "Now don't be sad
              'Cause two out of three ain't bad..."   

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 13:21:44 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Pontiac Engines ( I know, I know)

Dorian, 
Sold my 76 TA to my future bro-in-law, I has a 400 in it, I think he is
parting out several, I'll check, 400 runs better than 403, mine was a good
engine. Might be for sale, stay in touch, remind me, I'll make myself a
note.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net


- ----------
> From: DYeager535@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Pontiac Engines ( I know, I know)
> Date: Wednesday, November 25, 1998 12:49 AM
> 
>      I know this isn't really the place to ask, but obviously Olds owners
are
> more organized than Pontiac owners : ) I now want to find info about the
> Pontiac 400. If anyone knows a site, or personally knows a lot about
Pontiacs,
> please contact me. If this 403 is bad after the bore, I MAY try to go
with a
> Pontiac 400..I have a car that at a later date it COULD go in. Thanks,
Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 14:25:44 -0500
From: "Glenn J. Martin" <martin.glenn@sympatico.ca>
Subject: [Fwd: A New Supreme Owner]

Message-ID: <365889D8.6FF3@sympatico.ca>
Date: Sun, 22 Nov 1998 17:02:00 -0500
From: "Glenn J. Martin" <martin.glenn@sympatico.ca>
Reply-To: martin.glenn@sympatico.ca
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01C-SYMPA  (Win95; U)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: A New Supreme Owner
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I just purchased a 72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible.  Ihave two questions.

1) Where exactly does the Tire pressure decal go?  Exact dimensions
would be nice. Also where does the "Keep your GM All GM" air cleaner
decal go on the air cleaner?  It's a 4 BBL Carb with a 350.

2) What type of Tires were usually put on these cars?  I have the Super
Stock Wheels. I have the 1972 Olds Sales brochure and all they show is
the standard white wall tires and don't list any options. I've seen a
lot at car shows with Good Year Eagle ST with raised letters. Thats what
on mine now and they need replacing.  It looks great but are they
original ?

3) I also have M/T valve covers on it and was considering putting the
originals back on but after reading all the horror stories about oil
leaks I'm thinking twice about it.  The engine is super clean and dry
now.  Should I leave well enough alone?`

Any comments would be helpful.

An Olds Lover

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 11:33:15 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: 2 Speed to TH350 swap

>Actually you will probably be able to adjust it so that all the gears
>align but you may loose low (PRNDL to PRND2L) but for most
>driving you never use it anyway.
>

This is the way is was on my '66 with the stock colulm shifter.
I could drop it into second but not low.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 11:34:55 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: 2 Speed to TH350 swap

At 09:35 AM 11/26/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Is it a powerglide 2 speed?

Most likely it is the corporate Turbine-300 (Jetaway)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 13:44:10 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400

Jeff, 
You want hot tires and a cold track, throw a couple on electric blankets
over the rear tires on those cold days, need a portable gen. and turn the
heat way up, did it for years, and don't let the sun hit one rear tire and
not the other, cover one of tires if you can't position the car correctly.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net


- ----------
> From: blue442@webtv.net
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400
> Date: Wednesday, November 25, 1998 1:55 PM
> 
> On the subject of weather and 1/4 mile times,  I think excessive heat or
> cold can greatly reduce traction.  Is this just my local dragstrip? Has
> the heat damaged my mind? 
> Jeff Carter
> blue442@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 14:52:28 EST
From: TheBlue67@aol.com
Subject: Chrome needed for 67 Cutlass Convertible

after goin through my trunk that contained all the parts that came with the
car when i bought it, i discovered i need the moldings that go all the way
around the windshield. these windshield moldings must be from another
convertible, as hardtop and convertible windshield moldings are diffrent.

so if you have a set to sell or know where i can find a complete 67 cutlass
convertible windshield molding set i would appreciate it.

reply privately, thanks

Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible
http://members.aol.com/TheBlue67/main.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 11:51:12 -0800
From: "Mike Aldana" <maldana@inreach.com>
Subject: Chromeplating, polishing....

Hi to all on the list... still doing the  plating on bumpers, and pot metal
with satisfaction guaranteed as always.  resonable prices.

Bumpers...your cores   $180-220.00   plus return shipping
pot metal...reasonable,  varies with size and quality plating desired.
Polishing stainless, aluminum...$6.00 per foot, includes straightening
thanks

Mike Aldana
417 encinas Ave.
Calexico ca. 92231        760-357-0713

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 11:55:11 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Christmas Wish List

>
>5.  fender mounted headlight moniter lamps--the options list mentions
>availibilty for these in the rear, what are they talking about?
>
little lights on the fender that were blue/white/amber
cadilacs had lots of them. They pointed towards the windshield and 
the amber flashed with the turn signal the whight was lit with the 
headlights and the blue was lit with the hi-beems. 


You'll see the amber only ones on almost every Chrysler product
 from '68-'80.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 14:23:15 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: A New Supreme Owner]

Glenn, 
My 75 Supreme came with P215/75R15 tires on it new, Narrow white walls,
tire pressure decal on lid of glove box, air filter had "olds 350" on front
of unit, (red and white).
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

- ----------
> From: Glenn J. Martin <martin.glenn@sympatico.ca>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: [Fwd: A New Supreme Owner]
> Date: Thursday, November 26, 1998 1:25 PM
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 13:22:56 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Engine TICK part II(noise), HELP ASAP

I went down there again this morning.  Fired it up and it ticked a bit, shut
up when it was warm.  I think I know what the problem is.  With the old
rockers, they were quiet for a couple of days, but then started to clap.
When I replaced them, it was all quiet.  Now this tick.  I think that it is
the preload.  The pushrods are not long enough, so it will tick until it
warms up.  I figure it wore out the rocker arm again, making more room to
tick.  In any case, when I get it back, the intake and valvecovers are going
out so that I can look (have a better intake anyway).  BUT, I took it out
for a drive again today.  Let it warm up fully, drove for a minute nice and
easy. (this is in the country, so a nice, paved low traffic road).  I then
stopped and stomped on it.  It shaved the tires (as usual) but it then took
of like nuts.  I shifted at 4600 rpm (never pulled that good at such RPM)
and the tires broke loose with ease (love the shift kit), it even crimped a
bit going into third.  It seemed like it was more powerful then ever, so it
can't be nothing nasty.  Talk about torque.  I cant believe that a 455 with
so little work can make the big Delta move like that.  0-60 is in about 5.5
seconds and it just keeps going well after that.  Sure as hell beats the
shit out of my old 307 (although I love that motor as well).  Sure put a
bigass grin on my face.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 14:27:29 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Have a Happy Holiday

Everyone, 
Have a good one this THANKSGIVING DAY, and may GOD bless you all!

Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 15:46:49 -0500
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@pa.net>
Subject: 1947 Olds Custom Cruiser: Anyone have one?

Happy Thanksgiving
Just came back from a yard visit. My wife was not impressed.
Found a 1947 Custom Cruiser in pretty good condition. Engine
Runs ... needs body and interior work. He is asking $1500 

1. How many of these were made ....
2. Are there parts available ... body, upholstry, engine, chrome
3. What is the value of these things in # 2 condition 

It is one heck of a big car ... where can I find specs etc on internet. 
Thanks

Ken Swick
swickka@pa.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 15:08:55 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400

, and don't let the sun hit one rear tire and
>not the other, cover one of tires if you can't position the car correctly.
>Lou Biggs
>lbiggs@intertek.net
>
>
Saw a nifty trick in a magazine.  Guy had a balance tube to equalize
the pressure in the rear tires.  Had a clip on tire inflator adaptor on 
each end of a hose.  Clipped them on both tires and didn't have to 
worry about the sun heating up one tire and not the other.  

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 15:13:27 -0500
From: "Johnny Gage" <bladernr@roava.net>
Subject: discountperformance.com

I dont remember if I saw this URL on the Toro list or the Olds list, but I
just looked at it.  Seems like a great [place for parts, if you own a rice
burner.  I didnt notice anything for large illtempered overpowered road
cruisers.  Shame too...  I want some parts for my Toro!!!!

But it ides seem like a god source at least for Nissans, toyotas,and the
like.  If I missed the Olds parts let me know, cause I would like to see
them...

www.discountperformance.com

Happy Thanksgiving, and Merry Motoring!

Remember, today is a great day for that holiday drive in the country!  Or
just crusing around town.
><> ><> ><> ><> ><> 67 Toronado  ><> ><> ><> ><> ><>

Jeffrey Lane, EMT-ST                                ICQ#18716911
                    http://www.roava.net/~bladernr
    bladernr@roava.net               EMTBoy9@aol.com

Sr. Sergeant, Equipment Officer  | EMT-ST/Driver
Fort Lewis Rescue Squad, Inc.   | United Ambulance Service
Salem, Virginia                             | Roanoke, Virginia

"Knowledge is power.  But power corrupts, and corruption is a sin, so if
you seek knowledge, you will burn in hell. . ."

- ----------------------------------Carpe
Noctum------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 13:45:55 -0800 (PST)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Christmas Wish List

- ---BRIAN SHANKLE <cshankle@home.com> wrote:
 2.  Maroon Driver-side floor mat

- -----as mentioned before...ACC in Anniston.....there web site is      
           http://www.accmats.com/

      Hope ya'll all had a good holiday off:)
                       Later,
==
John McJunkin ( The Sman ) mailto:super442@yahoo.com  
  ICQ # 16956740      Lithia Springs, Ga.
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442 
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts    
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 15:17:11 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Gas Gauge Blues

For those of you who get goose bumps  every time your gas gauge rapidly
moves towards "E" and never recovers.  I found a solution.  Since my car is
in a bodyshop, I removed the bumpers, rear light assembly, etc..
Consequently, I unplugged the fuel sending unit so that I can move the
wiring harness.  It now reads FULL all the time and does not move no matter
how many WOTs I do.  I was thinking.  There is two ways to get around
gas-gauge blues.  First, install a dash mounted  switch to turn the gauge
on/off so that you can periodically look at it and know what is going on.
Solution 2, rewire the system so that only your LOW FUEL LIGHT works.  That
way, you can drive all you want and once you get LOW FUEL, quickly go to the
gas station.  I think that #1 is better, cause the LOW FUEL beep would drive
me nuts if I saw it every second day.  I sometimes deliberately fill before
the yellow zone so that I don't have to hear the
BEEEEEEEEEPSUCKER!!!!!!!!!SPEND MONEY!!!!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 16:32:21 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400

Mike, 
Neat, 
Lou

- ----------
> From: mbloomer <mbloomer@gateway.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400
> Date: Thursday, November 26, 1998 3:08 PM
> 
> 
> 
> 
> , and don't let the sun hit one rear tire and
> >not the other, cover one of tires if you can't position the car
correctly.
> >Lou Biggs
> >lbiggs@intertek.net
> >
> >
> Saw a nifty trick in a magazine.  Guy had a balance tube to equalize
> the pressure in the rear tires.  Had a clip on tire inflator adaptor on 
> each end of a hose.  Clipped them on both tires and didn't have to 
> worry about the sun heating up one tire and not the other.  
> 
> Mike B
> mbloomer@gateway.net
> ICQ# 19113713
> 72 Cutlass S (RIP)
> 68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 18:36:52 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: 1947 Olds Custom Cruiser: Anyone have one?

Ken Swick wrote:
> 
> Happy Thanksgiving
> Just came back from a yard visit. My wife was not impressed.
> Found a 1947 Custom Cruiser in pretty good condition. Engine
> Runs ... needs body and interior work. He is asking $1500
> 
> 1. How many of these were made ....

I can answer question number 1 for you.  My book lists the following for
you. 
			WEIGHT		PRICE		PRODUCTION
Club sedan		3715		1865		8475
Convertible coupe	4075		2307		3940
Sedan 4 door		3795		1917		24733

They were supposedly powered by an I-8 engine, 3.25(bore)X3.88(stroke)
with 110 horespower.  These numbers are for the L-47 Custom Cruiser 98.
Wheelbase is shown as 127.0".  Sorry that I can't help you withe the
other questions.

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 19:39:19 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: 3.0 to 3.8/4.1 swap

Hello all,
 I'm looking for advice. I have a chance to buy an nice 84 Ciera 4 door
cheap. It has a 3.0 [Buick] engine that's locked up.
 This is the same engine family as the 3.8/4.1 Buick. The 3.0 and 3.8
share the same bore size, but i'm not sure about the deck hieght. If
it's the same then the 3.0 intake may fit the 3.8/4.1.
  Does anyone know if the FWD 3.8 short block/long block would bolt in?
How about the even fire 3.8/4.1 rwd short block/long block.
 Anyone have thoughts/knowledge on these engines?
 TIA.
Dave Brode

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 20:16:16 -0500
From: Bob Dale <bctad5@toolcity.net>
Subject: Re: Engine TICK part II(noise), HELP ASAP

Igor T. '81 DRB 455 wrote:

> I went down there again this morning.  Fired it up and it ticked a
> bit, shut
> up when it was warm.  I think I know what the problem is.  With the
> old
> rockers, they were quiet for a couple of days, but then started to
> clap.
> When I replaced them, it was all quiet.  Now this tick.  I think that
> it is
> the preload.  The pushrods are not long enough, so it will tick until
> it
> warms up.  I figure it wore out the rocker arm again, making more room
> to
> tick.  In any case, when I get it back, the intake and valvecovers are
> going
> out so that I can look (have a better intake anyway).  BUT, I took it
> out
> for a drive again today.  Let it warm up fully, drove for a minute
> nice and
> easy. (this is in the country, so a nice, paved low traffic road).  I
> then
> stopped and stomped on it.  It shaved the tires (as usual) but it then
> took
> of like nuts.  I shifted at 4600 rpm (never pulled that good at such
> RPM)
> and the tires broke loose with ease (love the shift kit), it even
> crimped a
> bit going into third.  It seemed like it was more powerful then ever,
> so it
> can't be nothing nasty.  Talk about torque.  I cant believe that a 455
> with
> so little work can make the big Delta move like that.  0-60 is in
> about 5.5
> seconds and it just keeps going well after that.  Sure as hell beats
> the
> shit out of my old 307 (although I love that motor as well).  Sure put
> a
> bigass grin on my face.
>
> Igor Todorovic
>
> 1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)

   Sey Igor,
    What`s the rundown on your 455 that makes it work so well ? I`ve
been trying different shift points on mine from 4800 to 5300 and suspect
I may be wastin time by goin to 5300.
Thanks, B.D.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 19:39:19 -0500
From: Tom Robinson <trobert@escape.ca>
Subject: no more mail

 Please take me off your e-mail list. trobert@escape.ca.

  Thank You

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 18:49:37 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Engine TICK part II(noise), HELP ASAP

There is nothing special about my 455 at ALL.  It is a .030 over, 9.6 CR.
'76 block.  All I did was put the higher compression pistons, true DBL..
Roller timing set, a cam too small (Lunati grind, 204/214 duration @.050,
.448/.472 lift).  Other mods include ported & polished exhaust side of the J
heads + increase valve opening.  Untouched intake.  I have a '70 442 carb
and intake.  It has stock exhaust manifolds, dual 2.5" exhaust, balancer
tube, Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers with 2.25 tailpipes.  The trans. is TH400
with 12-inch converter and Hurst shift kit.  The car has 3.23 posi 8.5 10
bolt and BFGoodrich 255/60/15 tires.  I find that the 4600 rpm I did today
is all I should/could with this cam.  Usually pulls good to 4000, but not
much after that.  I would like to get the one-size-up cam (214/224 duration,
.472/.496 lift).  However, now I got hood-induction and will get K&N filter
(probably from my girlfriend) so we will see.  All I can say is that the
difference between an open air-cleaner and stock unit is noticeable.  Igor.
>   Sey Igor,
>    What`s the rundown on your 455 that makes it work so well ? I`ve
>been trying different shift points on mine from 4800 to 5300 and suspect
>I may be wastin time by goin to 5300.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 20:51:00 EST
From: OLDS44272@aol.com
Subject: 71 442 questions

            I talked with a guy selling a 71 442 for under $2000. What he said
about the car doesn't match up with what is posted at www.442.com. From a
phone conversation, the owner says the car has a 350 cid engine, and " Q N "
option 240 h.p. motor. He also said that the vin does not start with "344" .
He said it was a Cutlass " S" with the 442 option. Well, seems to me he
belives it is a 442, has all the emblems,buckets, dual gate shifter and the
body stripes. No O.I.A. hood.. So it seems that this car isn't a real 442.
Is there any other way that this could be a 442. Was a 350 an engine option (
FAQ says no)? could the dash pad have been changed?................any
thoughts are welcome..........This might at least be a decent " S"
car....................SCOTT

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 20:52:43 EST
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: '69 98 for parts

Found a neglected and forlorn '69 98 here in SoCal that the elderly owner
wants to be rid of. Sitting on 4 flat tires now, hasn't run in 5 years, but in
covered storage.
I'm looking at the 'C' head 455 as a good core motor for future use, but the
rest of the car has no value to me.

I recall somebody on the list was looking for a '69 parts car or a good front
clip for a convert project. This car qualifies with some good dry sheetmetal,
nice grilles and front bumper, hood etc..

If anybody is on the prowl for any of this stuff, E me privately. Maybe able
to collaborate.

Peter
Coupeking@aol.com
San Pedro, CA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 18:54:41 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Cam Question Again

I think that some of you will be pleased that I finally decided on the cam.
It is the Lunati grind 214/224 duration @.050, .473/.496 lift.  I am just
wondering if ANYONE is running this cam in a 455.  I want to know about
vacuum/powerband bottom/top end power, fuel economy, idle characteristics,
and valvetrain compatibility.  I know that there is someone there running
this cam, so please talk to me.  Thanks.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 19:51:36 -0600
From: "craig g broussard" <ABROUSSARD@prodigy.net>
Subject: Weatherstriping

Who has the best weatherstriping?

Adam Broussard
1962 Olds F-85 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 20:22:08 -0500
From: "Ron or JoAnn Hengerer" <Rhengerer@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: trim rechroming ?

Chroming is probably as meticulous as engine work.  Unfortunately there are
very few people that can do it right.  Most of the people in the business
are chroming new parts and what you want done is rechroming used parts and
there is a world of difference.  The preparation of used parts is a time
consuming and tedious operation and very few people are willing to take the
necessary time.  My brother and I used to build custom motorcycles and
chroming was by far our biggest headache.  I strongly urge you BE CAUTIOUS!
Ron-----Original Message-----
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, November 24, 1998 4:18 PM
Subject: Re: trim rechroming ?


>On Tue, 24 Nov 1998 KASOLDS@aol.com wrote:
>> Has anyone ever had any trim pieces rechromed?  How did it turn out?
>
>I unfortunately had the bad fortune of dealing with an inept local
>rechrome shop a few years ago when I had the big diecast chrome trim panel
>between the taillights on my '64 Skylark rechromed. They basically ruined
>it, just before they went out of business. I had to track down a
>replacement piece, so it was a very expensive episode.
>
>I have seen the front-of-front fender peak moldings on a '68 done by
>another shop though, and they look very good, so I have mine off the car
>presently awaiting shipment to Cambridge Chrome in Ontario. I think the
>cost is about the same as repros. I know that for the '68 eyebrow moldings
>I would always rechrome them following my bad experience this summer with
>the repros. Don't know if the later model ones are of better quality.
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 09:19:28 -0800
From: "Mark G. Morse" <mark.morse@snet.net>
Subject: Re: New Member

Doug Pack wrote:
> 
> Hey yall. My name is Doug Pack. I'm 15 years old and I'm in love
> with the great muscle machines of the '70's - particularly the
> Olds 442 and the Chevy Nova. My love for muscle cars started when
> I saw a picture of a light blue '71 Olds 442 W-30. Ever since,
> this has been my dream car. I hope to have one some day. I asked
> dad, but he said that was far too much power for me. We did quite
> a bit of looking around and I ended up with a '77 Chevy Nova.
> The car is completely stock and has quite a bit of "get up and go".
> Enough to whup a few stangs. Anyway, I've learned quite a bit
> about Novas on the Nova mailing list, and I wanted to find a little
> bit more about Oldsmobiles, so I turned here. Anyway, I just
> wanted to say "hi" and introduce myself.
>     -Doug Pack
> 
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

Welcome...and it sure is good to know that at least one fifteen year
old is NOT into Hondas but REAL cars.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 20:47:06 -0600
From: bloom9@juno.com (C K)
Subject: Re: Weatherstriping

Adam, although I haven't had the pleasure of buying any yet (:-P ) I'm
not looking forward to it because of the prices. I will however do so
because I want my cars to look their best. I looked in a couple of
catalogs I have and here's what I found for your '62. U.S.A. Parts Supply
Ltd. has weatherstriping that strarts at '61  and goes as far as '77 for
the older cars. My Year One catalog unfortunatly did'nt go back to your
year. Hope this helps. To order a catalog from USA call (703) 335-1935.
Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass

On Thu, 26 Nov 1998 19:51:36 -0600 "craig g broussard"
<ABROUSSARD@prodigy.net> writes:
>Who has the best weatherstriping?
>
>Adam Broussard
>1962 Olds F-85 Cutlass Convertible
>
>

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 20:41:42 -0800
From: Ted Griffin <griffint@govst.edu>
Subject: Starfire choke

Our '63 antique rose beauty was delivered to us here in Illinois from NC
and it's everything we hoped it would be. 47,000 miles, rides and looks
like new.  The previous owner told me that he had problems with the carb
after the car was taken out of storage for 5 years, so his local Olds
expert recommended he replace it with an Edelbrock carb, around 2,000
miles ago.  The carb does look like it's brand new and  the 394 runs
like a champ, except tonight, coming home after showing it off to the
"family",  things were a bit rough on the 5 mile trip home. (The
temperature had dropped down into the 40's) Forgive me for not knowing
the terminology here, but upon inspection, there is no device to actuate
the choke that I can see..  There is a bracket that looks to me like a
hand-choke cable should be attached, and that would be fine with me
since I'm used to driving model A's anyway.  I've been lurking about
this group for a week or so and am convinced this is the place to get
expert advice.  I'm retired now and bought this for my wife as a
celebration of our 40 years together, (this was the first car we bought
new).  So my question is, would you just attach a hand choke or is there
something I'm missing about this carb?  It's been starting very well, a
couple of pumps and it fires right up.


Griff - 35 year old car, 60 year old wife (both looking good)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 20:09:04 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: New Member

>Welcome...and it sure is good to know that at least one fifteen year
>old is NOT into Hondas but REAL cars.
>

Uhh, He left due to Chevy Rejection Syndrome the list developed.  Man, you
are late.

>> Hey yall. My name is Doug Pack. I'm 15 years old and I'm in love
>> with the great muscle machines of the '70's - particularly the
>> Olds 442 and the Chevy Nova. My love for muscle cars started when
>> I saw a picture of a light blue '71 Olds 442 W-30. Ever since,
>> this has been my dream car. I hope to have one some day. I asked
>> dad, but he said that was far too much power for me. We did quite
>> a bit of looking around and I ended up with a '77 Chevy Nova.
>> The car is completely stock and has quite a bit of "get up and go".
>> Enough to whup a few stangs. Anyway, I've learned quite a bit
>> about Novas on the Nova mailing list, and I wanted to find a little
>> bit more about Oldsmobiles, so I turned here. Anyway, I just
>> wanted to say "hi" and introduce myself.
>>     -Doug Pack

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 22:35:47 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: painting grill

My '75 Salon has plastic grills with some sort of chromish coating. I guess
you could call it chrome plated plastic. I want to black it out. Before I
get flamed, I've made up my mind, it's my car and that's the look I want . .
. NYAA!
Anyway, does anyone know what it takes to paint over this stuff? Can the
chrome be removed? I know acids corrode ionic material (i.e., metals), but
most plastics are unaffected by acids. Can parts like this be acid dipped to
remove the chrome?
I've roughed up the chrome a bit with coarse sandpaper with the hopes that
paint will stick to it like it is. What do you think?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 22:26:52 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Starfire choke

Ted Griffin wrote:

>  local Olds expert recommended he replace it with an Edelbrock carb,

        I assume the Edelbrock carb was actually installed.  When new,
Edelbrock carbs usually have an Edelbrock name tag on them.

>  There is a bracket that looks to me like a hand-choke cable should be
> attached,

        That is very possible.  The most common Edelbrock carb is nearly
identical to a Carter AFB and comes with either of two choke mechanisms.
One is a manual choke, the other is an electric choke assembly.  The manual
choke models can be converted to electric choke, if desired.  The other,
less well-known and more expensive, Edelbrock carb is nearly identical to a
QuadraJet and uses either a divorced, hot air, or electric choke, depending
on the model.  My guess is you have the AFB style carb as it is a square
bore carb (the Q-Jet style is a spread bore) and I believe a 4 bbl '63
intake manifold is designed for square bore carbs.

> So my question is, would you just attach a hand choke or is there
> something I'm missing about this carb?

        Assuming the carb is complete, except for the cable, that should be
correct.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1628
*********************************

