Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1616


oldsmobile-digest     Saturday, November 21 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1616



Re: Lady Kitsu Re: About the Intake
Re: Olds 455 oiling system
Re: Olds Oiling Systems SB
Re: HEATER CORE REPLACEMENT
Re: Olds 455 oiling system
Re: Olds 455 oiling system
Re: Valve Covers
Re: 1985 Olds 442
Car Covers
exhaust
Re: filling heat risers
Re: exhaust
Re: Car Covers
Re: Those Damn Blue Headlights - an FAQ
Re: Undercoat for engine paint/best bronze.
Re: Olds 455 oiling system
Re: Olds 455 oiling system
Re: HEATER CORE REPLACEMENT
Re: a quick question
Re: HEATER CORE REPLACEMENT
Decal Removal Problem
Re: Car Covers
Re: exhaust
'69 VIN  Deciphering
Re: small block olds oil fill tube
VIN and parts interchangeability
Re: poncho motor
Re: I need a 425
Re: '69 VIN  Deciphering
Re: Cryogenics' (was Mondello Prices!)
Wahooo! DOH! and please?
Re: Decal Removal Problem
A virus from reading e-mail? Maybe (http://www.msnbc.com/news/216790.asp)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 03:52:21 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Lady Kitsu Re: About the Intake

In a message dated 98-11-20 18:55:48 EST, you write:

<< anyone else with a 1966 BB div choke?
   I've got a few.  But, what's the question behind the question?  Peter. >>

Apparently "LadyKitsu" is in need of a choke rod.

Wriggled rod out of Karl's 1966 choke coil and will try to fabricate a copy.

Was curious to find if anyone would have a genuine article they might part
with.

Just the "Good Neighbor" thing.
Thats all.

Back to the SSII dialogue....

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 04:20:33 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds 455 oiling system

In a message dated 11/20/98 11:54:35 PM Pacific Standard Time,
igor455@home.com writes:

<< I should be fine if I don't go above 5000, right.  What is it like
 when you spin a beraring.  Any weird noise.  What about rod berrings.
 Thanks. >>

     Igor, in a slightly inebriated state, I will try to answer this. If you
spin a main bearing, you will know. Guaranteed. You will NOT start the engine,
the noise will be too scary! I saw (rephrase..HEARD) a 305 Chevy that spun
more than 1 main bearing, and it sounded like there was something hitting the
block with a hammer. Believe me, you will know, and even if you don;t know
what the noise is, you will cease to drive that vehicle. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 04:26:16 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds Oiling Systems SB

In a message dated 11/20/98 9:05:23 PM Pacific Standard Time,
supercars@transport.com writes:

<< In my view, as a performance
 part, 
 the only redeeming quality of a Toro pan is the bolt on
 baffles.  
 Not the pan itself.    
   >>

   Hmm..so the baffles would fit my 403 eh? I noticed it didn't have any in
the pan when I took it off..I was kind of surprised! If the pan lets no more
oil to the pump, there is no point. Thanks for the info Greg, I won't fret
over not finding a Toro oil pan. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 07:27:01 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: HEATER CORE REPLACEMENT

On cars without A/C you need to remove the passenger side inner fender to
get at the fasterners holding the heater box to the firewall. That's
really the only hard part. Then you unhook the control cables from the
heater box under the dash and wiggle the whole thing out. Replace the core
and then reverse the procedure. I did it, took a few hours, but didn't run
into any strange problems.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 06:19:29 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Olds 455 oiling system

You should be fine. I would get a Mondello catalog or call him up and see
what pan will fit for your car. I really am not familiar with your type of
car. When you spin a bearing you will lose all of your oil pressure and
possibly lock the motor. A main bearing spin can cause you to crack the
crank in half. A rod knock will sound like someone is hitting the block
with a hammer very quickly. A rod bearing spin can cause the rod to break
and fly through the block itself destroying the block and everything else
with it. 
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Igor T. '81 DRB 455 <igor455@home.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Olds 455 oiling system
> Date: Saturday, November 21, 1998 1:52 AM
> 
> >If you have 40-50 psi at warm idle you have ALOT of oil pressure. What
are
> >your clearances set at?
> 
> That is what I thought as well.  My old 307 barley had any oil pressure
at
> idle in drive.  I am thinking maybe oil-pressure gauge is not that great.
> Sometimes it is not smooth.  Anyway, it will sometimes do 35 psi at warm
> idle.  I specifically asked for a stock replacment pump.  Now I am woried
> that it may be a high-volume/pressure one.  With my cam, shifts at 4000
to
> 4500 RPM are all I do, because the powerband is over.  Clerances were
right
> in the middle of recomended by the Haynes manual.  That is a lot of
> oil-pressure for a Olds.  As for the oil pan, will a 77 or so Toronado
403
> pan fit.  I know that it will fit the motor, but I am asking if it will
fit
> the car ('81 Delta).  Is the 403 pan from the Toro bigger then my 455
pan.
> My next 455 will definitley have the oil restrictors.  They don't even
sound
> like they are that expensive.  As long as below 5000 rpm will do fine, I
am
> happy.  I should be fine if I don't go above 5000, right.  What is it
like
> when you spin a beraring.  Any weird noise.  What about rod berrings.
> Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 08:42:34 -0500
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <tjacquillard@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: Olds 455 oiling system

Igor T '81 DRB 455 wrote:
> 
> >If you have 40-50 psi at warm idle you have ALOT of oil pressure. What are
> >your clearances set at?
> 
> That is what I thought as well.  My old 307 barley had any oil pressure at
> idle in drive.  I am thinking maybe oil-pressure gauge is not that great.
> Sometimes it is not smooth. snip
I wanted to comment on this to see if any others had noticed this as I
have. When I see my gage flucuate it shows me that my oil level is low,
or my viscosity has thinned out. My normal pressure on my '68 455 is
35-40 at warm idle. I normally end up changing my oil about every 1500
miles. My car is a daily driver. Does this sound familiar with anyone
else?
T.J.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 09:17:49 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: Valve Covers

Brian,
    I have been here more times than I would like to admit.  Generally #3 is
the likely culprit.  You can do your best to flatten the mounting surface.
Sometimes this works if you are meticulous enough.  The best solution I have
found is cast aluminum Edelbrock valve covers(used on my Chevy) along with
1/4 inch gaskets.  If this is not a reasonable option then I would try 1/4
inch gaskets with the stock covers.  Use a little weatherstripping to hold
the gasket on the valve cover, torque the bolts snug then tighten bolts
after a couple hundred miles.  If the mounting flange seems weak you may
want to consider replacing the valve covers.  Good Luck.

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
>I redid the passenger's side valve cover.  By "redid", I mean that I had
...
>Went maybe 30 miles, and then started to leak again.  To investigate,
...
>I see three possibilities:
>1.  SOMEHOW, the installation procedure was flawed (I don't think so, but
>what do YOU think?)
>2.  Head mounting surface is warped (how would this happen?)
>3.  Valve cover is warped (I'm seriously leaning towards this one.  Would
>completely explain two faulty installs, plus makes me look better...)
>
>Does anyone have anything to offer to this?  I'm kind of pissed (to say the
...
> Brian Ammons Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 09:46:32 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: 1985 Olds 442

    Dunno how many, but all 85 442's would have VIN "9" motors with 5A
heads.

    drc
    ==========================


    Does anybody know how many 1985 Olds 442 were made in the White / Silver
color combo, or how many were made with the 5A heads instead of the 7A
heads, Thanks

      Steve C

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 09:39:03 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Car Covers

Been thinkin' about getting one of those fabric car covers to protect the
Delta from winter nasties. There's a plethora of materials available, each
with pro's and con's with respect to protection v.s. weight, cost, etc.

I'd like to solicit list experiences on this. Keep in mind this is a daily
driver. It means covering / uncovering every day (depending on weather
predictions).

Anybody out there use a cover every day?  Is it worth the effort?

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 10:58:49 -0500 (EST)
From: BM77@webtv.net (Brian Miller)
Subject: exhaust

I have a 307 Y engine. With the exception of an ignition upgrade, it is
stock. It has a single exaust with only a 2 inch tailpipe like the
factory system. Is this restricting me of any power? I've heard the 7A
heads don't flow very well. Am I waisting time and money if I put in a
dual exaust? Can I gain any power in doing so? Will the 442 Vin 9 cat
back system bolt up to my cat? I know it will fit the car. Is that the
only difference in the Vin Y and 9 systems? 
 
                                            Thank you

                                               Brian
 

BM

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 11:00:21 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: Re: filling heat risers

Hello all,
 I've wondered why anyone uses the "Mondello" alloy for filling the heat
riser. I just melt some dirty old used cast pistons in a flea market
cast iron skillet. I lay the head on a steel bench on the intake side,
and heat the head up until it's hot to the touch, and pour the alum into
a little trough made of 1"X1" angle iron.
 Dave Smith told me that this combined cutting the exhaust side back
until the center divider is flush is worth 40 horse on a 455.
 The best part is it gets rid of the "bub, bub, bub" exhaust sound.
Dave Brode
 64 Cutlass 


. 
> I filled my C heads with zink heated it up poured it in, cleaned the
> excess with grinder, pulled the heads two years later and the zink was
> gone on both heads , where ? I guess out the exhaust.   Butch  68  442
> post

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 10:20:11 -0600
From: "Mark Tupper" <mtupper@palacenet.net>
Subject: Re: exhaust

>Will the 442 Vin 9 cat
>back system bolt up to my cat? I know it will fit the car. Is that the
>only difference in the Vin Y and 9 systems?

While the VIN '9' system will bolt up, you do have one slight problem...the
OEM hangers for the dual outlet exhaust are discontinued, and used/NOS ones
are hard to come by. I'm sure that you could fabricate something, but be
prepared for it. I can't say what performance gain you'll notice.. I think
the pipes for the dual outlet system are 2.25". The one improvement that I
can guarantee is the dual outlet system sounds better. :-)

- -Mark Tupper     1987 442    (OCA 30666)
 mtupper@palacenet.net     http://cyberglyphs.com/442/
 Olds G-body Mailing List    http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 12:28:05 -0500
From: dgerow@student.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: Re: Car Covers

Dave,

I use one of those "ready-fit" Multibond covers made of this stuff called
"SENTREX".  It's suposedly 3 layers of material that protects against all the
elements, sun and rain included.  I used it for the past three years on my '72
Grand Pr*x with pretty good success.  It's ultra simple to put on or remove
with elastic sections at each end.  There are gromets in the middle to anchor
the rest of the cover down in case you are expecting high winds.  It rolls up
nicely and fits back in it's box when I need to go somewhere.  I've used it
through the winters as well and it's done a rather good job.  It's $80 price
tag is a bit much, but these are the things we do for our prized posessions.
I would say it's a good alternative to inside storage, if you love your ride.
Good Luck.

Dan

- --
- ---------------------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
WSHL General Manager
http://www.stonehill.edu/wshl
http://www.stonehill.edu/~dgerow
- ---------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 12:25:51 EST
From: Supafli50@aol.com
Subject: Re: Those Damn Blue Headlights - an FAQ

The light bulbs are a conversion or factory on foreign cars but are were
designed to be used on domestic car that hve the tinted headlight covers.
Bulbs can be bought for a 25.00 to 30.00 a piece in Minnesota.  Probally
cheaper in places like Florida where there more popular.
Matt
88 Olds Cutlass Supreme Int

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 13:01:43 -0500
From: Brian Kerr <bkerr@golden.net>
Subject: Re: Undercoat for engine paint/best bronze.

Cliff:

It is best to not use undercoat on on engines, and to keep the paint
thin in order to disipate heat better. I used a BASF Limco I (Alkyd
enamel I think) with no hardener, as recommended by the local paint
supplier. I brought in a valve cover to match the metallic blue for my
455, but they actually had a code for the paint anyway. The cover was
insurance to actually match and verify the shade. In Canada BASF paints
are sold by independant as well as company owned stores going by ART..
Automotive Refinish Technology. Think that there is one in Calgary. Take
in a valve cover or something for them to match I think you will find
they can do it easily. My pint of paint cost me $17 Can, and it was more
than enough to do my entire engine, block heads valve cover all apart
and painted separately with two coats. They can even put the paint into
a spray can for you.
As far as standing up to the heat, I have a discoloration at the edges
of the head where they bolt up to the headers, between each spark plug,
but the paint is intact. I sprayed my old iron intake hi heat cast blast
aluminum (gasp!!) to look like an aluminum intake. It started to rust
through in places before I even started up the engine, but it hasnt
burned off the crossover. I'll pull it this winter, blast and repaint
with blue to match the block.

Brian Kerr
Cambridge, Ontario
69 Cutlass S conv
(in hibernation for winter - our first snow came last night)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 11:55:51 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Olds 455 oiling system

It gets really cold here now, well below freezing, so maybe that has
something else to do with it.  Fluctuation is almost only present when I
start it cold.


- -----Original Message-----
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <tjacquillard@InfoAve.Net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: November 21, 1998 6:45 AM
Subject: Re: Olds 455 oiling system


>Igor T '81 DRB 455 wrote:
>>
>> >If you have 40-50 psi at warm idle you have ALOT of oil pressure. What
are
>> >your clearances set at?
>>
>> That is what I thought as well.  My old 307 barley had any oil pressure
at
>> idle in drive.  I am thinking maybe oil-pressure gauge is not that great.
>> Sometimes it is not smooth. snip
>I wanted to comment on this to see if any others had noticed this as I
>have. When I see my gage flucuate it shows me that my oil level is low,
>or my viscosity has thinned out. My normal pressure on my '68 455 is
>35-40 at warm idle. I normally end up changing my oil about every 1500
>miles. My car is a daily driver. Does this sound familiar with anyone
>else?
>T.J.
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 11:57:21 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Olds 455 oiling system

Like a really loud knock, or a light one.  Would it maybe sound like exhaust
leak.  And also, what would cause a rod to knock.  Thanks.

>You should be fine. I would get a Mondello catalog or call him up and see
>what pan will fit for your car. I really am not familiar with your type of
>car. When you spin a bearing you will lose all of your oil pressure and
>possibly lock the motor. A main bearing spin can cause you to crack the
>crank in half. A rod knock will sound like someone is hitting the block
>with a hammer very quickly. A rod bearing spin can cause the rod to break
>and fly through the block itself destroying the block and everything else
>with it.
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
>----------
>> From: Igor T. '81 DRB 455 <igor455@home.com>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: Olds 455 oiling system
>> Date: Saturday, November 21, 1998 1:52 AM
>>
>> >If you have 40-50 psi at warm idle you have ALOT of oil pressure. What
>are
>> >your clearances set at?
>>
>> That is what I thought as well.  My old 307 barley had any oil pressure
>at
>> idle in drive.  I am thinking maybe oil-pressure gauge is not that great.
>> Sometimes it is not smooth.  Anyway, it will sometimes do 35 psi at warm
>> idle.  I specifically asked for a stock replacment pump.  Now I am woried
>> that it may be a high-volume/pressure one.  With my cam, shifts at 4000
>to
>> 4500 RPM are all I do, because the powerband is over.  Clerances were
>right
>> in the middle of recomended by the Haynes manual.  That is a lot of
>> oil-pressure for a Olds.  As for the oil pan, will a 77 or so Toronado
>403
>> pan fit.  I know that it will fit the motor, but I am asking if it will
>fit
>> the car ('81 Delta).  Is the 403 pan from the Toro bigger then my 455
>pan.
>> My next 455 will definitley have the oil restrictors.  They don't even
>sound
>> like they are that expensive.  As long as below 5000 rpm will do fine, I
>am
>> happy.  I should be fine if I don't go above 5000, right.  What is it
>like
>> when you spin a beraring.  Any weird noise.  What about rod berrings.
>> Thanks.
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 14:20:09 -0500
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Re: HEATER CORE REPLACEMENT

Mark,
I have a '71 Motor's Manual. According to them, heater core replacement is
as follows:

                                        1965-70 Intermediate Models

1. In engine compartment remove five attaching nuts from blower. The lower
outboard nut is removed by drilling a 3/4" hole through fender filler panel
at dimple, or if no dimple is provided, disconnect the right fender at the
bottom and block it away from the body. Remove nut through this opening.

2. Disconnect resistor wiring and three control cables.

3. Remove heater case assembly from under dash. Exposed core can now be
removed.

Why the book doesn't go to '71 I don't know. But if memory serves the body
style between '70 and '71 isn't all that different.  Good luck and may the
force be with you.

				R. Kevin Noon
				66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
				85 Delta 88 Royale Brougham
 
> I have a '71 Olds Cutlass that needs the heater core replaced. I've
> heard nightmare stories about changing them in these cars. Is this 
> something I can tackle myself or should I try to find someplace to have
> it done? 
> 
> Thanks, Mark.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 14:26:50 -0500
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Re: a quick question

Murphy,
	I'm not sure of the answer to your interchangability questions, but I
think you mean Olds 455, not 454. I've never heard of any 454 other than
Ch*vy. And I know that won't bolt up to the rest of the drive train without
an adapter.  Just my $.02
				R. Kevin Noon
				66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
				85 Delta 88 Royale Brougham 
> hi
> 
> i have a quick question. are the olds 425 and cadillac 425 motors
> interchangeable? how about the olds 454 and caddy 425? if not, how
> much different are they? any info is greatly appreciated. thanks a lot.
> 
> 
> murphy
> 
> 
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 16:57:59 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: HEATER CORE REPLACEMENT

On Sat, 21 Nov 1998, rkn wrote:
> I have a '71 Motor's Manual. According to them, heater core replacement is
> as follows:
> 1. In engine compartment remove five attaching nuts from blower. The lower
> outboard nut is removed by drilling a 3/4" hole through fender filler panel

Please don't drill the inner fender! I know some sources (I think even one
of the car magazines) say to do this, but it isn't that hard to remove the
inner fender and the result is that it stays intact. After all, they
aren't making them any more...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 16:18:40 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Decal Removal Problem

Hi all,

Does anyone know of a product that will remove decals that have been shot
with a clearcoat? or a pearlcoat?

Here's my predicament............My '72 H/O had previously been sprayed with
a coat of clear pearl. The paint underneath is in good shape, but the
pearlcoat has been buffed off most of the car. Just as well I don't want it
there anyway. My paint guy is trying to remove the stripes without damaging
the paint, as he just wants to sand it and then apply the primer without
going to bare metal. He's tried several different decal removal products to
no avail. They don't seem to penetrate the coat of paint over the decals. He
doesn't want to Zipstrip the car unless absolutely necessary. I spoke to him
today and he is going to try a heat gun as a final attempt. If that doesn't
work....Zipstrip it is, unless someone on the list here has any other ideas.
So if anyone has any ideas I'd appreciate hearing them.

Thanks to everyone,
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 15:38:30 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: Car Covers

I used a Wolf Custom Evolution IV car cover on my Firechicken...Wolf brand,
"custom" meaning that it had pockets sewn in to exactly fit the side-view
mirrors (as opposed to just having a large blister of material on each
side), and Evolution IV was the type of fabric.  $120 @ Hi-Lo (Hi-Lo
O'reilly, now), and they had to special order it.

It definitely kept nasties off the exterior, but it was not waterproof.  It
deflected water, sure, and dried out quickly enough in sunshine, but if the
covered car got rained on you'd get a kind of "diffused water" on the car -
I'm thinking of kind of like what happens if you put a cold glass down on a
ceramic coaster, and then look at the table underneath.  Make sense?

This was also in Houston, so I don't have any suggestions in regards to how
it would work in "real" winters.

To take off, you folded it into unequal thirds (center was biggest) by
lifting right and left sides to opposite side, top of the car.  Then you
rolled it up, taking care to remember which way faced forward.
"Installation is the reverse of removal."

It wasn't so difficult to take on and off, and would definitely be easier
on a "less aerodynamic" car like your Delta (as compared to a current
generation F-body, no flame), because one of the major problems when the
car was clean was that the cover would slide off the car as you were going
around to the car to fold the other side up.  But this advantage might be
offset by the general unwieldiness of a piece of fabric that LARGE.  Two
people could do this with their eyes closed, doing it by myself took just a
little practice.

I mentioned a problem when the car was clean - which is a problem in and of
itself.  I always had a problem putting the cover on the car when the
exterior was less than spotless, because it meant that it was going to get
the interior side of the cover dirty, which would get the car dirty, which
would get the cover dirty, etc etc...But if you don't put the cover on,
then the car gets even more dirty, and then why did you spend all that
money on a cover in the first place?  Easy solution is "wash the cover",
but it's jest sew durn BIG!  Won't fit in your standard residential washing
machine.

If you don't have a power antenna, you're going to wish you did, because
you do NOT want to cut a hole in you expensive cover for the antenna to fit
through, and doing what I did (remove the radio antenna and, later, CB
cellular-look-a-like antenna everytime you put the cover on) quickly
becomes a major pain in the ass.

If you get one, buy a duffel bag at Academy to keep it in when it's rolled
up.  About $15.

FOR SALE: 1994 Firechicken with NICE cover, $9500 (really!)

At 08:39 AM 11/21/98 , you wrote:
>Been thinkin' about getting one of those fabric car covers to protect the
>Delta from winter nasties. There's a plethora of materials available, each
>with pro's and con's with respect to protection v.s. weight, cost, etc.
>
>I'd like to solicit list experiences on this. Keep in mind this is a daily
>driver. It means covering / uncovering every day (depending on weather
>predictions).
>
>Anybody out there use a cover every day?  Is it worth the effort?
>
>drc
> 
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 16:41:35 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: exhaust

I have a 307 Y engine. With the exception of an ignition upgrade, it is
stock. It has a single exaust with only a 2 inch tailpipe like the
factory system. Is this restricting me of any power?
- ----------------------------
By itself, not very significant from what I've read here.
================
I've heard the 7A
heads don't flow very well.
- -----------------------------
And that's why changing exhaust won't help all that much.
===================
 Is that the
only difference in the Vin Y and 9 systems?
- -----------------------------------
Nope....better cam, slightly different carb. With the cam change, the
exhaust makes more difference.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 16:56:29 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: '69 VIN  Deciphering

I know this has been discussed lots of times before on the list and I'm
sorry about asking again.  If there is a FAQ page I need to go to please let
me know.

I just saw a 69 olds 442 for sale and I wrote down the VIN (what I could
make of it ).

The digits are the 6th and 7th ( 9M ).

         344879M317817

What I think I know:
3   -olds
44 -4400 series(442)
87 -body style
9M -   assy plant?
317817 - 317,817th car to roll out of that assy plant for the year.
  
I can't find any 'code busting' notes in my manuals.  The car is automatic,
AC, PB, and has a cutout bumper on back.  no post and buckets with std
console.  Obviously the orig motor has been replaced with a 455 (#396021 F)
with Ga heads. But the owner 'swears' it a ram rod 400 that has just been
rebuilt (looks like it has been).  

Here's a loaded Q:  Is the car worth $2500 in rough shape?  what I mean by
rough is dings in the hood and doors, faded paint, shredded seats, peeling
vinyl top, rusted chrome, and 100# of grit/grime underneath and under hood.

Despite my knit-picking, it's pretty solid and very driveable.

Thanks for your help, 
Donny
72 442 
89 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 16:06:11 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: small block olds oil fill tube

Brian, 
Don't smack it too good, it will break off even with the block, then you
have a real P.I.A. to get it rest off it out
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
- ----------
> From: Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: small block olds oil fill tube
> Date: Friday, November 20, 1998 7:46 PM
> 
> Yeah, it's called a 2by4. I'm not kidding. Take a 2x4 and smack it
firmly.
> You will notice it shift from side to side. Eventually falling out. The
tube
> is force fitted, don't worry it won't dent.
> > I am taking my 1987 307 olds small block apart for an overhaul. How do
I
> > get the oil filler tube out of the block? Is there a special tool? Any
> > immediate help you can give me would be great.
> > 
> >                                               Thank you
> >                                                Brian
> > 
> > BM
> > 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 17:12:27 EST
From: MFATZII@aol.com
Subject: VIN and parts interchangeability

According to my book the following VIN (1G3AM47Y4DM482255) denotes a 1983
Cutlass Calais Brougham, however the car itself has Cutlass Supreme Brougham
all over it.  The car has the 307 4bbl, power steering, cruise, tilt, a/c, but
no power seats, windows, etc.  What is the difference between a Calais and a
Supreme or is there a typo in the book?  also I need to know some answers from
the experienced...first off, the fender is in excellent condition on the
passenger side and my girlfriends car needs one. Will the fenders interchange?
(she has an 85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham)  Also will the header (fiberglass
section on the front end, width of the car surrounding headlights)
interchange?--That's what I call a header anyway :)   oh ya and the wiper
motor too....I think I'll just fix up the woman's car a little, keep the motor
and tranny, and send the car to the boneyard.  Should I bother saving the
motor?  It runs strong (from what I could tell with a blown head gasket)
barked the tires a little with it.  Are there better heads available that will
bolt right on?  according to the FAQ the heads on there now are 5A  (I think
that's what I read) anyway If the 307 is worth anything I plan to build it a
little next summer and find another cutlass to pour it into.  Please help me
with the parts swapping questons....nothing I hate worse than starting a
project that ultimately becomes a waste of time.


TIA

Ryan (MFatzII@aol.com)
Lincoln,   Nebraska  (Home of the Cornhuskers, too bad they suck !)
<<Turn it on, Wind it up, Blow it out, OLDS-MO-BILE>>

56 88 4dr Sedan  (Project Rocket) 
<A HREF="http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/wieders2/">Click here</A>
83 Cutlass Supreme Brougham 307(RIP)
85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham V-6(girlfriend's)
89 Chevy Beretta CL (Ryan's  a.k.a   pool shark)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 17:05:09 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: poncho motor

I have an opportunity (?) to buy a Pontiac engine that is represented to me
to be a Super Duty 421 from a 1961 Catalina.  It is a long block with oil
pan and both intake and exhaust manifolds.  However, I  know squat about
these furrin engines.  The only numbers I could raise are cast onto the
block as follows: 538181.  On the heads: 538177.  Does anybody on the lit
know what these numbers signify, or what I should look for to identify this
engine?  Failing that, does anyone know someone that might know?  I
understand that it's not an Olds engine, but it's against my religion to
just leave a '60's big block flopping around in space.  Nodamene?  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 17:22:15 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: I need a 425

You must not need one real bad.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: David Seiver - Account Executive <DavidS@AnaServe.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, November 09, 1998 3:31 PM
Subject: I need a 425


>Hello all.
>
>I am having MAJOR BLOWBY. I ran out of oil a couple months ago...long
>story...I am in the market for a solid 425 for my 1967 f85
>I dont know what information I need to give you all but feel free to call
me
>at the 800 number below or email me back...this is a first time for
me...any
>help is appreciated
>
>David Seiver
>Account Representative
>AnaServe, Inc. - A Concentric Network Company
>Voice: 1-800-711-6030 ext. 283 (949) 250-7262 Ext. 283
>Fax: 714.250.7265
>e-mail: dseiver@cncx.com
>Web: http://www.anaservehosting.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 17:39:56 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: '69 VIN  Deciphering

>If there is a FAQ page I need to go to please let me know.


      344879M317817


3=Olds
44=442 (V-8)
87=2 door holiday coupe
9=1969
M=Lansing, MI
317817=production #

(#396021 F)


68-72  455 block and the Ga heads are from '72 also

> But the owner 'swears' it a ram rod 400 that has just been


68-69 400 block id # is 396026 with a G code
66-67 400 block id # is 390925 with an E code

> Is the car worth $2500 in rough shape? 

If the engine was just rebuilt.......probably

All of this came from the FAQ ..........www.442.com 

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 16:54:50 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Cryogenics' (was Mondello Prices!)

Scott, 
would carefully look for options, working with Liq. Nit is like working
with molten steel, only in reverse. results can be the same to the human
body, not something for the do it your selfer. by the time you buy special
containment vessels, tools, protective gear, and the product itself,
Mondello would be cheap. + you would have to know the procedure, doubt if
you can just drop them into a vat of it. No flame, just honesty.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
- ----------
> From: Gasman24 <stulk@bellsouth.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Cryogenic's (was Mondello Prices!)
> Date: Friday, November 20, 1998 10:32 PM
> (snip)
>  Umm... Hate to ask again but, just how is this process done?
> If the only thing involved is putting your bearings in liquid nitrogen
> could'nt you just do this yourself?
>  Or do you have to use some special type bearing? Or is there some 
> "magic" process you have to follow?  Scott <stulk@bellsouth.net>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 18:11:55 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Wahooo! DOH! and please?

Been busy.

Been working on the new (old) rear axle assembly.

As mentioned previously, it is the same diff code as originally installed on
SOM at Lansing.

However.....



Today's secret word is: Anti-Spin.

Yup.

No matter what Karl twists in which direction, everything else moves.

And it is definitely the 41:14 or 2.93:1 that SOM has (according to gear
stamping).
So it is either due to a dealer option or owner's whim. Was a 2V carb
(missing), so definitely was not a 98 or Starfire engine option.

Much too cool.
Definitely gonna use up the whole nine yards of ammo in prepping this sucker.
Media blasting, new spring perches if necessary, powder coating,
magnafluxing.....

In other news, had set this week-end aside to rebuild the 2GC carb and correct
the needle and seat problem. Got a good kit, (Service Electric's Hygrade
line..NOT Borg/Warner) and the seat fit. Got it apart. Soaked in cleaner for a
few hours, got it together OK, made some adjustments....

Was bolting it back onto the "A" block when....

DOH!!!!





The carb body was loose on the throttle body.
And all was tight but the fuel line.

So, loosen everything again including the two front bolts that are SUCH a pain
because you can only manage about 1/6 of a turn before the wrench hits
something.

Will not miss that when I go to a Q-Jet.

Also, Karl finally found a replacement 2GC top, and was going to use it.
Until Karl realized that he had not fully planned the swap.
The standard Rochester inlet will not fit the brass fitting he is currently
using for his fake braided (rubber) fuel line. DOH!!!

Just as well, had not cleaned up the whole (and correct) air cleaner (with
decal!) that would properly set atop the new air horn anyway.

Finally, the Email downloaded last night makes AOL puke.
Would someone kindly send me the last two digests?

Thanks much!

BTW: For anyone who had started to think of Karl as a carb guru (yes, someone
actually said that), Karl "mislaid" his original unloader rod.
It's prolly still in the pail o' carb cleaner,..... but... then again....

And for anyone who cares; yet another search engine has been updated to list
the URWS as a hit for Roch Carbs, too bad the sale to Mag Mar is causing such
probs. Thanks to all for input, support, or just browsing.

SOM

&KA
ICQ #20414415
http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 18:32:30 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Decal Removal Problem

>Hi all,
>
>Does anyone know of a product that will remove decals that have been shot
>with a clearcoat? or a pearlcoat?


I imagine that they can be sanded off. You gotta sand the topcoat anyway if
you're gonna repaint. Yer basic 320 wet paper on a rubber block, maybe even
a 1/4 sheet pad sander. That'd be my method.


>....Zipstrip it is, unless someone on the list here has any other ideas.


Oh, horrors!

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 17:40:01 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: A virus from reading e-mail? Maybe (
http://www.msnbc.com/news/216790.asp)

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BE1575.F701CD80
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

See!
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BE1575.F701CD80

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BE1575.F701CD80--

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1616
*********************************

