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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1688


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, December 28 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1688



Re: HEI distributor info
Re: Torque Converter Swap Backyard-Tech
RE: 50 fastest US production cars
RE: 82 NOT starting
E-mails
Re: 82 NOT starting
Re: COLD light?
Re: COLD light?
Re: COLD light?
Re: COLD light?
Re: 5300LBS
Re: e-mail tech help needed
Re: COLD light?
Re: [Re: COLD light?]
Re: 82 NOT starting
Re: Christmas Present
Re: 69 H/O Model
RE: 69 H/O Model
street racing
Aluminum hoods and accesory
RE: Aluminum hoods and accesory
Re: COLD light?
Mime-Version: 1.0
Re: COLD light?
body shop est.
Re: Torque Converter Swap Backyard-Tech
RE: body shop est.
RE: body shop est.
RE: body shop est.
RE: body shop est.
Re: torque vs hp, big inch diesel, amc
master cylinder leak
Re: body shop est.
Re: body shop est.
Re: master cylinder leak
Re: body shop est.
Re: Deltas, Deltas everywhere...
Re: body shop est.
Re: Deltas, Deltas everywhere...
Re: Electrical Problems
Re: body shop est.
Re: 5300LBS
unsubcribe olds list
Stall Converter Advise
Re: COLD light?
Re: body shop est.
Re: body shop est.
Re: body shop est.
Re: Another Case of Mistaken Identity
master cyl.  replacement ??????/  w-31
Re: Good News
Husky G-bodies (Was: Re: 5300LBS)
Re: Aluminum hoods and accesory
Re: A-Body Rack & Pinion
Re: body shop est.
Re: master cylinder leak
Re: body shop est.
Re: master cyl.  replacement ??????/  w-31
Re: Torque Converter Swap Backyard-Tech
Re: 69 H/O Model

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 10:54:07 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: HEI distributor info

A shorted ignition module can cause the coil primary to open. That might be
what happened to yours. The module is definitely the most failure-prone
component of the HEI system. When it dies, it's all stop. Some people keep a
spare in the tool box.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 09:53:40 -0600
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Torque Converter Swap Backyard-Tech

One easy one.

Take the THM350 converter, the 11 inch one, and swap on to a THM400 for a
higher stall speed.

Take a THM400 converter you just took off and (12 inch) and drop on a THM350
for a lower stall, better torque multiplication and better fuel economy
(better lockup).  

I have heard about using the Vega 9 in converter, but the risk of exploding
with high hp makes it not worth the risk.  I like my toes......

My 80 Turbo Trans AM came with the 12 in THM400 converter, it has the 6
mounting boss' for the 6 bolt flywheel, but only 3 are actually installed.
I have been told this is the famed GM6 converter used behind GM's high hp
cars, but cannot truly confirm.  With a 301 Turbo I got about 1800 stall out
of it.  I hope to get a 11 in converter for it someday.....The 12in is too
heavy.  

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 10:54:48 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: 50 fastest US production cars

> I know the Baldwin Camaro in 1969 (Motion Phase III) was originally a 396
> car that had a dealer transplanted 427.  
> 
> For my vote, it is not Olds or Pontiac, but the ZL1 Camaro made production
> of 69 models, and was capable of low 11's with slicks and minor tweaks.
> Sure, Ch#vy rated the all Reynolds wrap 427 at 435 hp at 5500 rpm, the
> peak
> was 575 at 7500 rpm.  Not bad at all.  
> 
> 
I thought this thread died .. all well.
Anyway, when I got back home from the holidays yesterday, in my mailbox was
the latest Muscle Car Review.  And on the cover, was ..... yes a Yenko
Camaro, 68 vintage, along with a story about the Yenkos, all of them.

There was also a story about the Buick 455 stage 2, yes 2.

And finally, the poster installment had it's fourth in the series.  72 H/O
convert with Linda Vaughn.  The car was sporting a set of Hurst wheels.
Personally, I'm just used to seeing the Hurst wheels on 65 GTOs, so I don't
care for them on this 72 H/O, I'd prefer the SSII myself.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 09:59:08 -0600
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: 82 NOT starting

You can line up the timing marks to TDC, and then pull the cap, it should
point very close to #1.  Or whatever is 180 degrees off of #1.  If it is the
V8, then #1 and #6.  The V6???  

As for jumping, I doubt it.  I have NEVER seen a car with a chain jump. Just
not enough slack to do that.  And the Buick 231 has a tensioner to help
control that too.  

Typically incorrect ignition timing or wiring yields backfiring.  

If it ran fine and now does not, check for spark with a spark plug.  Ensure
a good healthy spark.

Then check for fuel, and the choke setting all the way.  If it is open and
it is that cold it will not start.  Typically need 5:1 or richer A/F ratio
to start and run a cold engine.  

Hope it starts!!  

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 08:07:28 -0800
From: Erica Montano <Erica.Montano@amotusa.com>
Subject: E-mails

Please, PLease remove my name and E-Mail address from your list. I only
made an inquiry for a friend of mine and now I have received over 300
e-mails since Dec. 23.

Thank you and all of those who sent info. but the car has since been sold
and we are in need no longer for info.

Erica L. Montano

Erica L. Montano
Documentation Specialist
Amot Controls Corporation
401 1ST Street
Richmond, Ca 94801
(510)307-8341

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 11:32:08 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: 82 NOT starting

I have seen a timing chain jump, BUT it wasn't the slack in the chain, it as
sprocket teeth that were so worn out that some of the teeth had broken off.
Of course this was with the factory nylon toothed cam sprocket. There are
points were the timing can be off enough for the engine to refuse to start
and still not backfire. Seen that too (several times). I installed a timing
chain incorrectly one time and had that happen. I would, however eliminate
all other avenues before you look to the timing chain. The position of the
distributor rotor when the engine is supposed to be at TDC will tell you
whether timing is the problem. I have also seen distributer gear roll pins
shear (freaky but it does happen). Usually that results is little or no
turning of the distributor at all. My first look would be at the module,
second would be coil. Next, I would check timing. You will most likely fing
your problem by checking those three things. If those three things are OK,
then your problem is not fire. Of course the next thing is fuel. Look down
the carb and open the throttle. If there's gas, next item. Check
compression. If you have compression, fuel, timing, and spark. The next step
is to call a priest. I hope I'm not insulting anyone here with this simple
diagnostic plan, but I've been turning wrenches for 17 years and it's the
way I do it. Cars (especially in 1982) just aren't that complicated.

- -----Original Message-----


>
>You can line up the timing marks to TDC, and then pull the cap, it should
>point very close to #1.  Or whatever is 180 degrees off of #1.  If it is
the
>V8, then #1 and #6.  The V6???
>
>As for jumping, I doubt it.  I have NEVER seen a car with a chain jump.
Just
>not enough slack to do that.  And the Buick 231 has a tensioner to help
>control that too.
>
>Typically incorrect ignition timing or wiring yields backfiring.
>
>If it ran fine and now does not, check for spark with a spark plug.  Ensure
>a good healthy spark.
>
>Then check for fuel, and the choke setting all the way.  If it is open and
>it is that cold it will not start.  Typically need 5:1 or richer A/F ratio
>to start and run a cold engine.
>
>Hope it starts!!
>
>Thomas Martin
>80 Turbo Trans AM
>85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
>91 Bonneville LE 3800
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 11:35:25 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: COLD light?

In a message dated 98-12-28 10:48:43 EST, you write:

<< What years did Olds have the COLD light?     <mild snip>
 What triggered the COLD light?  What other Olds' models and years had this
 feature? >>

Got in on the 1965 car.

Better than sliced bread, or a tick-tock-tach for that matter.

Not really hard to fathom, Cold light just another "idiot" light. Figure the
temp sender has two switches, or a single three-position.
Just as "HOT" comes on at a certain temp and above, at startup "COLD" is on
and stays on until the engine reaches such an operating temp that the fast
idle may be disengaged, then temp-switch is off.

Karl not about to dissect temp sending unit.

Geez, does anyone repro these?
<quivering with fear>

Uh, if anyone is gonna take Karl up on a 455-425 swap? Leave the temp-sender
unit on the block, please?

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 11:46:18 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: COLD light?

I can't reply for the Oldsmobiles, but the 68 Buick Electra 225 had
one.  Don't know what controlled it, though.
Brian.

Martin Thomas-WLTM07 wrote:
> 
> What years did Olds have the COLD light?
> 
> My dad's 1968 Delmont 88 had one.  It was nice, wait till the COLD (blue or
> green, I forget) went out and then you turned the heater blower on and you
> got warm, no blowing cold air on you.
> 
> What triggered the COLD light?  What other Olds' models and years had this
> feature?
> 
> Anyone?  Please?  I would like to know!
> 
> Thomas Martin
> 80 Turbo Trans AM
> 85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
> 91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 08:49:09 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: COLD light?

- ---Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com> wrote:
>
> I can't reply for the Oldsmobiles, but the 68 Buick Electra 225 had
> one.  Don't know what controlled it, though.
> Brian.
> 
> Martin Thomas-WLTM07 wrote:
> > 
> > What years did Olds have the COLD light?
> > 
> > My dad's 1968 Delmont 88 had one.  It was nice, wait till the COLD
(blue or
> > green, I forget) went out and then you turned the heater blower on
and you
> > got warm, no blowing cold air on you.
> > 
> > What triggered the COLD light?  What other Olds' models and years
had this

> > feature?
> > 
- ------------------------------------------------

I don't know about the Oldsmobiles either, but my dad's 64 Chevy
Impala has that otion on it. It is triggered by the temp. sensor. I
know this all too well because the damn sensor went to hell the first
and only day I ever got to drive it! I thought that I screwed
something up because the hot and cold light were both on and would
alternate sometimes and everything else.

Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 11:53:28 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: COLD light?

I had a 68 F*rd Fairlane with one, and I think my 65 Starfire had one (can't
remember for sure). Musta been a 60's thing.

- -----Original Message-----


>> What years did Olds have the COLD light?
>>
>> My dad's 1968 Delmont 88 had one.  It was nice, wait till the COLD (blue
or
>> green, I forget) went out and then you turned the heater blower on and
you
>> got warm, no blowing cold air on you.
>>
>> What triggered the COLD light?  What other Olds' models and years had
this
>> feature?
>>
>> Anyone?  Please?  I would like to know!
>>
>> Thomas Martin
>> 80 Turbo Trans AM
>> 85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
>> 91 Bonneville LE 3800
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 08:56:32 -0800
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: 5300LBS

My fully loaded '84 H/O weighs 4040 lbs (I was as surprised as you!)
with about 350-400lbs worth of driver, stereo equipment (sub-box, that
MDF isn't light!), and cargo.  I wonder why it weighs so much compared
to other G-bodies?  Of course, the driver himself isn's a lightweight so
that doesn't help ;-)

I work for a concrete, asphalt, and aggregate company and I used their
scale.  The scale was brand new last spring and certified to within 20
lbs.  I asked about it because I was figured it was only accurate for
weighing 30-ton loaded trucks.  I'll have to try using the scale at one
of our other pits next time I'm there for comparison.

And in reply to another message, there are SOME g-body stripes still
left from GM.  They had the lower (thick) stripe for the front bumper of
my '84 H/O, but not the upper one.  Fortunately, the upper one was
easily duplicated with 1/4" red and 1/8" black pinstriping tape.  Some
of the side stripes are still available too.  I've heard that some 442
stripes are available also, but in very limited colors.

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com
http://www.ior.com/~tlentz/hurst.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 10:22:18 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: e-mail tech help needed

If you are using Netscape 6.5 and you have the 3 pane view then reduce
the size of the left pane (the folders pane) or select View, Show,
Folders to turn it off.  With Outlook you can just close the left pane
by clicking on the little x.

The newslist is set to wrap at some number around 70 so once you have
more room than that the extra is wasted.  Some people post with wider
lines and those lines will always appear "wrapped" with short lines
alternating with wide lines.

If you want some help getting your reader set up then email me the
specifics pricvately and I'll try.

David Brode wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
>  My computer knowledge is very limited. I've noticed some [or all] of my 
posts are showing up with the
> text being wider than the screen, requiring one to scan back and forth to 
read them. Can someone tell
> me why? How do i fix this?
>  Thanks.
> Dave Brode

- -- 
Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 12:32:43 EST
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: COLD light?

In a message dated 12/28/98 10:48:37 AM Eastern Standard Time, Thomas_Martin-
WLTM07@css.mot.com writes:

<< 
 What years did Olds have the COLD light?
 
 My dad's 1968 Delmont 88 had one.  It was nice, wait till the COLD (blue or
 gree >>
My 61 Starfire has the cold  light

Everett

------------------------------

Date: 28 Dec 98 09:46:19 PST
From: Bruce Suess <restoman@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: COLD light?]

oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:
I had a 68 F*rd Fairlane with one, and I think my 65 Starfire had one (can't
remember for sure). Musta been a 60's thing.

- -----Original Message-----


>> What years did Olds have the COLD light?
>>
>> My dad's 1968 Delmont 88 had one.  It was nice, wait till the COLD (blue
or
>> green, I forget) went out and then you turned the heater blower on and
you
>> got warm, no blowing cold air on you.



My 56 super 88 has cold light
wait till it goes out then mash the gas w-no bog



>>
>> What triggered the COLD light?  What other Olds' models and years had
this
>> feature?
>>
>> Anyone?  Please?  I would like to know!
>>
>> Thomas Martin
>> 80 Turbo Trans AM
>> 85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
>> 91 Bonneville LE 3800
>




RESTOMAN

____________________________________________________________________
More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://home.netscape.com/netcenter/mail

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 10:45:30 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 82 NOT starting

>I have seen a timing chain jump, BUT it wasn't the slack in the chain, it
as
>sprocket teeth that were so worn out that some of the teeth had broken off.
>Of course this was with the factory nylon toothed cam sprocket.

When my 307's timing chain craped out (and hence I put in the 455) the chain
was in one piece it is just that the aftermarket steel cam gear (believe it
or not) got so worn out that if one was too look at it, it would be funny.
I kept re-setting the timing until the chain slipped off.  The car had
gazillion miles on it and the motor looks great after disassembly and ran
beautiful (except for the chain) so it still is a good motor.  Igor.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 09:52:24 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Christmas Present

Are these flat top covers or are they rounded like stock?  Any problem 
with Booster clearance.
- ----snip------

Also I got a set of Edelbrock Signature Series Valve Covers from my 
girlfriend for my 455.  Looking at them they look much nicer then the SB 
Chevy of the same type that one will find on display everywhere.  The 
look like they would be a nice fit.  The box says that they are stock 
height but look a bit taller to me.  


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 09:58:54 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 69 H/O Model

I collect these also.  There is a black 69 442 (W30 ?  my memory fails 
me at the moment) available.  That is all I have seen Olds related.

>I was given a 69 Hurst Olds die cast 1/18" scale model for Christmas
>a really nice looking model. (Ertl Collectibles) I was wondering if 
there
>were any other Olds die cast models available. I have looked in the 
past and
>have not seen any, so this 69 H/O was a pleasant surprise.
>
>
>Kevin Grant
>80 Cutlass
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 13:03:11 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: 69 H/O Model

> I collect these also.  There is a black 69 442 (W30 ?  my memory fails 
> me at the moment) available.  That is all I have seen Olds related.
> 
I'm almost positive it's a black W-30.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 12:59:20 -0500
From: "Erik Gertsen" <ainode@frontiernet.net>
Subject: street racing

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_003D_01BE3261.E27B4AE0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

hello , on an old thread of street racing, i took the side of "you only =
live once, os why not?" i totalled a rare and capable sports car this =
christmas eve, and i now have to change my view. race on a track, =
because theyre arent always guardrails and saftey precautions out on the =
road. I think i ll jsut save some money and go to skip barber instead!

Erik Gertsen
P.S. it wasnt an olds that took the hit, so you can all breathe now! :)


- ------=_NextPart_000_003D_01BE3261.E27B4AE0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<STYLE></STYLE>

<META content=3D'"MSHTML 5.00.0910.1309"' name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#d8d0c8>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>hello , on an old thread of street =
racing, i took=20
the side of &quot;you only live once, os why not?&quot; i totalled a =
rare and=20
capable sports car this christmas eve, and i now have to change my view. =
race on=20
a track, because theyre arent always guardrails and saftey precautions =
out on=20
the road. I think i ll jsut save some money and go to skip barber=20
instead!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Erik Gertsen</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>P.S. it wasnt an olds that took the =
hit, so you can=20
all breathe now! :)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_003D_01BE3261.E27B4AE0--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 12:35:57 -0600
From: "Joe Centanni" <jacentan@crown.icongrp.com>
Subject: Aluminum hoods and accesory

I believe export(Canadian) G bodies came w/ aluminum hoods or at least a
lot of them did.......Also I believe around 83-85 aluminum alternator
mounts were fazed in on all Olds 307's as I know that an 83 H/O desn't have
them.
				Later
				Jeremy 87 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 13:38:41 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: Aluminum hoods and accesory

> I believe export(Canadian) G bodies came w/ aluminum hoods or at least a
> lot of them did.......Also I believe around 83-85 aluminum alternator
> mounts were fazed in on all Olds 307's as I know that an 83 H/O desn't
> have
> them.
> 
I thought many list members said that diesels had alum hoods?

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 11:40:09 PST
From: "Mike Sealey" <rocket98for69@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: COLD light?

Thomas Martin wrote:

> What years did Olds have the COLD light?
>
> My dad's 1968 Delmont 88 had one.  It was nice, wait till the COLD 
>(blue or green, I forget) went out and then you turned the heater 
>blower on and you got warm, no blowing cold air on you.

Seems to me Olds had this in '56, which I do know was their first year 
for idiot lights.  I also believe Olds had this light before anyone
else did.

Am I also right in my belief that Olds was first with temperature 
idiot lights?  I know Hudson had amp/oil lights in the '30s, and 
once saw a '30s Pontiac with a light in place of an ammeter, but don't
remember temp. lights before the '56 Olds.

Mike Sealey
'69 Ninety Eight Holiday Sedan

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 11:44:30 -0800
From: Erica Montano <Erica.Montano@amotusa.com>
Subject: Mime-Version: 1.0

Please remove me from your e-mail address list. I am no longer interested.

Thak You,
erica
Erica L. Montano
Documentation Specialist
Amot Controls Corporation
401 1ST Street
Richmond, Ca 94801
(510)307-8341

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 14:50:36 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: COLD light?

In a message dated 12/28/98 11:46:30 AM EST, cshankle@home.com writes:

<< What years did Olds have the COLD light? >>

My dad's 62 Dynamic 88 had one, and he wouldn't move that car until that light
went out. That was a great car and he was a great guy.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv. (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 15:25:51 -0500 (EST)
From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: body shop est.

Hi all,

I went out to see what it was going to cost me to get my 70 cutlass convertible
painted.  One guy would strip it and paint it for $4,500.  The other guy
wouldn't strip it but came up with between $3,500 and $4,000.

Are these good prices? Or at least in the ball park?

I'm in the Lansing Mi area    Any advice or comments would be greatly
appreciated.

Thanks
Doug
70 CS convertible
Holt, MI

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 14:58:03 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Torque Converter Swap Backyard-Tech

In a message dated 12/28/98 7:55:56 AM Pacific Standard Time, Thomas_Martin-
WLTM07@css.mot.com writes:

<< My 80 Turbo Trans AM came with the 12 in THM400 converter, it has the 6
 mounting boss' for the 6 bolt flywheel, but only 3 are actually installed.
 I have been told this is the famed GM6 converter used behind GM's high hp
 cars, but cannot truly confirm.  With a 301 Turbo I got about 1800 stall out
 of it.  I hope to get a 11 in converter for it someday.....The 12in is too
 heavy.  
 
 Thomas Martin >>

     The 6 bolt convertor is just a heavy duty one. It MAY have been used in
high performance applications, but it also came on some TH400 trucks. Put one
in my friends truck when I rebuilt the trans. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 15:38:35 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: body shop est.

> I went out to see what it was going to cost me to get my 70 cutlass
> convertible
> painted.  One guy would strip it and paint it for $4,500.  The other guy
> wouldn't strip it but came up with between $3,500 and $4,000.
> 
For JUST paint!!?!?!?!  WOW!!!!!!  If there's body work involved then I can
understand those estimates, but to just strip and repaint, that's outrageous
..... well unless your going with multiple candies and pearls and other such
custom paint work.  I've gotten estimates to repaint my 89 mustang for
$1200/$1300.  And one estimate was exactly the way I wanted it done, remove
all emblems, lights, moldings, etc, strip off old paint and repaint
basecoat/clearcoat in original color.  No body work was involved.  My mom
recently had her 88 mustang repainted the original two tone colors, she also
had some body work done and it was around $2400.  And yes I know there is a
size difference between the mustang and the cutlass, but I don't know about
$2000 worth of a difference.  Just my $.02

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 12:47:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: body shop est.

<I read and snipped>


> For JUST paint!!?!?!?!  WOW!!!!!!  <snip>
  I've gotten estimates to repaint my 89 mustang for
> $1200/$1300.  <snip>
My mom recently had her 88 mustang repainted the original two tone
colors, she also had some body work done and it was around $2400.  


- -----------------------------------------------------
<I respond>

This all depends on what kind of paint you want? Yea, I got a paint
job on my Olds for 1200 bucks. Not even 2 years later, the paint is
flaking by the taillights. I accidently dented the top a bit (fixable
I hope!) and the paint cracked and is chipping off. A friend of mine
has an 86 Monte Carlo SS. The cheapest estimate on that one is 3500.
This is in Fargo, North Dakota.

Del

==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 15:56:06 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: body shop est.

> This all depends on what kind of paint you want? Yea, I got a paint
> 
True.  And I also know a color change is more expensive, or so I've been
told.  I've never gotten any of my cars painted and I don't recall any of
the specifics on the paint job on my moms car.  And I don't recall what type
of paint was going to be used on my car, but I do remember it was a PPG body
shop, so one would assume (yeah I know) it would be PPG paint.  (In general)
I would also guess a restoration shop would cost more than a body shop, but
the restoration shop will do a much better job ... for a price.
Another thing I found out was estimates in the Indy area where a lot higher
than the estimates I've gotten from Terre Haute, IN (where I live) for
similar work.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 13:02:11 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: body shop est.

- ---"Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com> wrote:
<snipping a lot>
> Another thing I found out was estimates in the Indy area where a lot
higher
> than the estimates I've gotten from Terre Haute, IN (where I live) for
> similar work.
- -----------------------------------------------------
I hate to waste bandwidth here, but I have always been curious. Why is
it, estimates differ from different parts of the country? I mean, the
paint's the same......are some of the body men in some states worth
more then in others? I could never figure this one out!

Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 15:08:31 -0600
From: bloom9@juno.com (C K)
Subject: Re: torque vs hp, big inch diesel, amc

Yeah, and when you look in your rear view mirror and all you can see is
it's front grill, it'll scare the crap out of ya!
:-p
 
Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass

On Mon, 28 Dec 1998 03:22:45 EST GraphixRUs@aol.com writes:
>Our 94 freightliner, 430hp  at 2150  rpm, Cat engine,   with 663,000  
>miles on
>it   3.91 gears, 24.5" low-profile radial Michellens, 9 speed Fuller 
>trans. ,
>grossing   79,750#  will  run 97 mph day after day  & get 5.8 miles 
>per
>gallon.
>Roger Utter
>

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 16:10:36 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: master cylinder leak

Happy holidays to all. Hope you got the toy you wanted. I got an Eastwood
adjustable stool on wheels with a tool shelf. Really cool. Now, down to
business. My brake pedal had way too much travel yesterday and after removing
the MC cover, I noticed the larger compartment was half empty. I checked all
the usual places ie. calipers, lines etc. and it appears to be coming from the
back of the MC attached to the booster. Is this the probable place it would
fail? Should i replace the MC?, and is it a pretty straighforward proposition?
Should I bench bleed the new one, etc? Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
Tia
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv. (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 16:19:32 -0500 (EST)
From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Re: body shop est.

>
> > I went out to see what it was going to cost me to get my 70 cutlass
> > convertible
> > painted.  One guy would strip it and paint it for $4,500.  The other guy
> > wouldn't strip it but came up with between $3,500 and $4,000.
> >
> For JUST paint!!?!?!?!  WOW!!!!!!

Well there is some body work involved - rear of right fender replaced, doors
redone inside,  includes jams trunk ect...  fix all little dings and whatever
is found under old paint.  Not much it is a very solid car.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 16:19:45 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: body shop est.

My '72 H/O is costing $3500 - $4000, stripes not included. This is for some
minor rust repair to the front fenders,fix the stress cracks in the hood,
strip car and then basecoat/clearcoat. Southeastern, PA area.

You know the saying........You get what you pay for.

On that note, when the time comes for my plain jane 72 Cutlass toy to get
painted, I'll do the prep work and primer (maybe paint too) and probably a
cheap Maaco paintjob. Cinderella's not fussy......anything will look better
than her Krylon coat of paint she wears now.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 15:25:20 -0600
From: Shang <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: master cylinder leak

JonKrisInc@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Happy holidays to all. Hope you got the toy you wanted. I got an Eastwood
> adjustable stool on wheels with a tool shelf. Really cool. Now, down to
> business. My brake pedal had way too much travel yesterday and after removing
> the MC cover, I noticed the larger compartment was half empty. I checked all
> the usual places ie. calipers, lines etc. and it appears to be coming from 
the
> back of the MC attached to the booster. Is this the probable place it would
> fail? Should i replace the MC?, and is it a pretty straighforward 
proposition?
> Should I bench bleed the new one, etc? Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
> Tia
> Bruce
> 75 Delta 88 conv. (duals of course)


Most likely the rear seal in the master cylinder is worn out. Happened
to me on my '78 Cutlass (first car). The pedal got soft one night, then
the next day half of the fluid was in the street. MC is easy to
remove/install, but you have to bleed to brake system after you have
replaced it. I would recommend using line wrenches on the fittings. You
should always bench bleed the MC first, many reman's come with a little
plastic tube kit for this and you can do it on the car. Install the MC
to the booster, then hook up the bleeder kit, get inside the car and
pump the pedal, while having someone else watch the MC until it is free
of bubbles. Pump the pedal slowly during this process as you can blow
the seals out if you pump a dry MC too fast. 

You can also get a handheld vacuum pump from the auto parts store that
is designed for one-man brake system bleeding. I have found it to be the
best method I have personally used, because I can tell that all of the
air is truly out. The downside is that you need to take all the bleeder
screws out and wrap them teflon tape, to prevent air from sucking in
around the threads. If you don't, you'll never stop seeing bubbles, even
after the system is properly bled.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 16:22:55 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: body shop est.

In a message dated 12/28/98 4:04:36 PM EST, rockman20@yahoo.com writes:

<< I hate to waste bandwidth here, but I have always been curious. Why is
 it, estimates differ from different parts of the country?  >>

It's what the traffic will bear. In NYC, rent and labor is probably higher
than in many other places. Also time of year is a factor. In the winter when
more accidents occur, they probably need the work less. Remember, they make
most of their money replacing broken parts. Not as labor-intensive as
stripping a car down to bare metal, welding in new pieces, etc, Frankly, if
you can find a guy that knows what he's doing and takes the time and effort to
make your car look great, it's probably worth the extra dough. OTOH a ripoff
is still a ripoff at any price. Caveat emptor.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv. (duals of course) 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 15:27:51 -0600
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Deltas, Deltas everywhere...

The LS Delta was the 80's answer to the full size 98 that got canned into a
FWD car.  Had the nice car features, the 98 backup lights, all red
taillights, etc.  Only wire hubcaps, Vinyl roof, etc.  Basically a Brougham
car.  

84 was the death of the 98 RWD, and for 85 the Delta 88 Royale LS came out.
Then the Delta went to wrong wheel drive.....

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 16:27:06 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: body shop est.

>I hate to waste bandwidth here, but I have always been curious. Why >is it,
estimates differ from different parts of the country?

I believe it has to do with the "cost of living" index or whatever you want
to call it for an area. Overhead is higher. ie. rent, labor etc.

That's why people in Northern VA, D.C. area pay $500 for valve job (right
Joe ;), while I pay $275 in Southeastern PA. It's like when I moved west one
county (about 3 miles) and my car insurance dropped 40%. I was no longer
considered as living in the Metro-Philadephia area. Even though I was 45
miles from Philly.

That's my 2 bits worth.
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 15:44:44 -0600
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Deltas, Deltas everywhere...

The LS Delta came in 4 door only.  

In 1976 returned (? I think the Holiday 88 was around in the 50's, right?)
the Holiday Delta 88 Royale, which was 2 door only and had no rear windows
between the B and C pillar.  The car had a nice targa strip and a white
landau roof.  Very nice cars.  Came with special color keyed hubcaps and
luxury trim options.  
Standard engines, L34 350 or the 455.  THM375 (not "B") standard in 350
powered cars, and THM400 in 455 cars.  

I have a good dealer picture of the 76 Holiday Coupe Delta 88, if anyone is
interested, please let me know.
If someone has a Delta 88 website and would like this, I would be glad to
see it up on the web.  My guess is the reason Olds brought this body style
in is the demise of the Convertible.  Shame they did that.  The 76
Convertible would have been so nice.....

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
 

>Officially, there were only two body styles on the 88 from '77 to '85.  The
>"town sedan" ("69") and the "coupe" ("37").  There was, however, a
variation
>on the roofline in ''77-'79.  The '78 and '79 coupes ordered with the
padded
>half vinyl roof got a thicker "B" pillar and smaller quarter windows.
>
>In response to Greg's comments, the Custom Cruiser was on the same 116"
>wheelbase as the Delta 88 and other "B" body cars. The '77-'79 Custom
>Cruisers also used a Chevrolet body.  The only Olds parts other than some
>trim were the hood and nose cone.
>
>The '77 Delta coupe with the Pontiac / Buick LeSabre roof is also featured
>in Helen Early's book on page 391.  This was the original plan for the
Delta
>88.  Olds had enough clout in GM at the time to get $$$ for an Olds only
>roof line for the '77-'79 Delta 88 coupes.
>
>Regards,
>Fred


Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 17:06:26 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Electrical Problems

In a message dated 12/27/98 4:53:42 PM Central Standard Time,
dgerow@coal.stonehill.edu writes:

<< 
 I'm having some electrical problems with my '71 Cutalss Supreme.
 A few days ago, the alternator light came on.  Since then, it has
 remained
 on without fail.  The car is on it's second new alternator, has a new
 voltage regulator (external), with some new hardware.  I can't drive the
 
 car at night, for obvious reasons, such as I loose all my electical
 equip, especially those oh-so-helpful headlights.  I thought the problem
 
 might lie in the crusty horn/buzzer relay on the driver's side fender,
 but that isn't it
 either.  The altenator is putting out jucie cause I had it tested.  Does
 
 anyone have any other suggestions.  As I have to go be to school (and
 work) soon, I need the use of my vehicle.  Any advice is duly
 appreciated.
  >>
    I am currently going through the same ordeal with my 65. If I tapped on
the voltage regulator and restored the situation...temporarily. I then tapped
a little harder, and somehow damaged the v.r.. Now, I have around 16 volts at
2000 rpm, and 11 volts at idle. These parts are new (alternator and reg.). I
am gonna repaint the original v.r. and reinstall it. 
    I was perplexed because when I turned off the ignition and removed the
key, the gen. light would come on and the am radio would still play. I traced
the problem by using a test light. I would suggest doing the same and starting
at the batt. and working your way into the system from there thill you find
the "aggravating piece of s**t" part that is faulty. Just a joke, but I know
that electrical problems can be hard to diagnos sometimes and it gets
frustrating.
   Good luck
CEastham
65 442
65 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 16:00:39 EST
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: Re: body shop est.

In a message dated 12/28/98 3:57:40 PM Eastern Standard Time,
SemantanaC@tce.com writes:

<< 
 >>
just do it yourself you save alot of money cost my friend $300 when we painted
his car came out perfect but then again we already had a compressor, and all
of the sprayers for it							
Rich

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 17:18:17 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: 5300LBS

In a message dated 12/28/98 12:30:36 AM Central Standard Time,
gregp@intrlink.com writes:

<< 
 On G-bodies, the cars with V8s and diesels got lighter body parts and
 brackets to save weight.  Maybe the big cars did too?  For instance,
 there are some V8 G-bodies, especially diesels, that had aluminum
 hoods.  You might check a diesel delta and see if there's any light body
 parts on them you can use.  Some 80's V-8 cars (diesels, I think) are
 said to have aluminum front accesory brackets on the engine.  Maybe you
 could adapt them to your 455?  I don't remember if small block accesory
 brackets fit a big block or not.    
   >>
...OHHH...and "Lexan"windows...remove the door lock knobs too...Just joking:)
Collyn

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 17:20:19 EST
From: CMans285@aol.com
Subject: unsubcribe olds list

please remove this email adress from your list. the volume is to much to
handle . if you could please switch to my other email adress at
elboroomxx@aol.com  yours truly chas mansfield

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 17:26:09 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: Stall Converter Advise

Hello folks,
I know the best stall to get for 3000 rpm would be a performance
aftermarket.
BUT, I have a tranny guy telling me that he can get me whatever stall rpm I
want using a std 12" converter. I don't know if he's making/modifying them
or buying them that way. The cost of the units is $85 regardless of what rpm
I want. He took me for a ride in his BB chevy truck that was stalling ,at
the least, 3000 rpm(not break stall just riding around). Then he told me
look underneath at the torque converter(he had the dust cover off) and sure
enough a std huge(11" or 12" ) converter. I'm really baffled now. I want a
higher stall (3000-3500) but I just can't afford the $225-$300 price of a
TCI.

Now, knowing what I know about stalls (which ain't much), I wonder if this
guy is really shooting bull or can it be done. Has anyone heard of such a
thing?

Is it a vane pitch trick or what?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 17:27:28 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: COLD light?

In a message dated 12/28/98 10:51:21 AM Central Standard Time,
rockman20@yahoo.com writes:

<<  I
 know this all too well because the damn sensor went to hell the first
 and only day I ever got to drive it! I thought that I screwed
 something up because the hot and cold light were both on and would
 alternate sometimes and everything else.
  >>
haha....toooooo funny!
Collyn

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 14:28:10 -0800
From: babyboo@pacbell.net
Subject: Re: body shop est.

for that kind of pricetag, they better do a show car quality paint job.
Just my .02 cents
P.S. With paint jobs, you get what you pay for.

Douglas J Harkema wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I went out to see what it was going to cost me to get my 70 cutlass 
convertible
> painted.  One guy would strip it and paint it for $4,500.  The other guy
> wouldn't strip it but came up with between $3,500 and $4,000.
>
> Are these good prices? Or at least in the ball park?
>
> I'm in the Lansing Mi area    Any advice or comments would be greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks
> Doug
> 70 CS convertible
> Holt, MI

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 17:33:14 EST
From: Lou0118@aol.com
Subject: Re: body shop est.

In a message dated 98-12-28 16:20:51 EST, you write:

<< Well there is some body work involved - rear of right fender replaced,
doors
 redone inside,  includes jams trunk ect...  fix all little dings and whatever
 is found under old paint.  Not much it is a very solid car. >>

If there is that much body work involved it does not sound too bad.  I think
it might cost that much here in New Jersey.

Will there be clear coar on it also?

Are you changing the color too?

Lou Principe
69 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 17:32:44 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: body shop est.

In a message dated 12/28/98 2:28:04 PM Central Standard Time,
harkema2@pilot.msu.edu writes:

<< I went out to see what it was going to cost me to get my 70 cutlass
convertible
 painted.  One guy would strip it and paint it for $4,500.  The other guy
 wouldn't strip it but came up with between $3,500 and $4,000.
 
 Are these good prices? Or at least in the ball park?
  >>
   Sounds very exspensive to me, but then I basecoat/clearcoat my cars
myself(very easy). I had a initial outlay of $600 for used compressor, new
guns, and line conditioners(air filter,regulator,water trap), and materials
cost me on avg. $250 a car.
Collyn

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 17:51:02 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: Another Case of Mistaken Identity

In a message dated 12/25/1998 2:26:53 AM Eastern Standard Time, CCRR12@aol.com
writes:

<< "I know everything about these cars, I am a BUICK nut, especially these
 55's!"
  >>


How about the ones who start off with "I had one JUST like that"  this is
usually followed by "except...." and usually ends up describing a car that
isn't even the right year much less the right model or even make!  This is
especially true with those of us who have modified cars.  We get this all the
time in my Mom's 57 Ch*&^%$et.  Excepting of course that her car is a non
factory color, wrong engine with 3X2's on it, all power options never
available, etc...    But in all fairness, yes we do love the attention, even
when they don't know what their talking about!

SeeYa!
Bill (wonder how many people have 442's "just like mine"!) K

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 17:50:09 EST
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: master cyl.  replacement ??????/  w-31

hi all, im looking at replacement of the master cyl. on my 70 w-31, it`s a 4
spd. ,  and of course has disc. on the front.  my problem is finding a
replacement.  local parts store has nothing close to it.  checked year ones
out , but it does`nt look the same as the one on there now.  mine looks like
the standard vac. disc. unit but has a threaded shaft coming out the back that
bolts onto the brake pedal.   i could rebuild mine, but i seem to recall some
one on the list saying these units use a diff.(o.d.) size plunger .   TIA.
steven, w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 16:55:25 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Good News

Ray,
That's a Blue Javelin!!!!, always wanted one.
Lou
- ----------
> From: Ray Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: Good News
> Date: Sunday, December 27, 1998 9:40 PM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 18:01:18 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@intrlink.com>
Subject: Husky G-bodies (Was: Re: 5300LBS)

Tom Lentz wrote:
> 
> My fully loaded '84 H/O weighs 4040 lbs (I was as surprised as you!)
> with about 350-400lbs worth of driver, stereo equipment (sub-box, that
> MDF isn't light!), and cargo.  I wonder why it weighs so much compared
> to other G-bodies?  Of course, the driver himself isn's a lightweight so
> that doesn't help ;-)

Yeah, the G-bodies are deceptively heavy.  My loaded T-top Calais weighs
in at 3303lb empty according to the title.  My `67 Cutlass Supreme
weighs 3394.  Considering the relatively thin metal of the Calais I'm
surprised it weighs only 91 pounds less than the `67.  I could replace
the jetaway with a TH350 and install an aluminum manifold and the
`67cutlass would be as light as the 80 Calais!  I guess the bracing for
the T-tops adds a lot of weight.  

The weight of your H/O dosen't sound too far off I guess.  If you had a
full tank of gas that can add a lot of weight too.  Wonder how much 16
gallons of gas weighs anyway.  

Of course the Vista Cruiser porks out at 4425 before the driver fills
the tank or gets in himself.  I guess it weighs around 5000 lbs with me
and 23 gallons of gas in it.  Mines a "light" Vista Cruiser too.  It's
got a 350 and the only options are air conditioning, 3rd seat and a
power rear window.

Jeez! I own 5.6 tons of Oldsmobile!   :)
Wish I had more than 2.21 tons on the road. :)

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais


> 
> I work for a concrete, asphalt, and aggregate company and I used their
> scale.  The scale was brand new last spring and certified to within 20
> lbs.  I asked about it because I was figured it was only accurate for
> weighing 30-ton loaded trucks.  I'll have to try using the scale at one
> of our other pits next time I'm there for comparison.
> 
> And in reply to another message, there are SOME g-body stripes still
> left from GM.  They had the lower (thick) stripe for the front bumper of
> my '84 H/O, but not the upper one.  Fortunately, the upper one was
> easily duplicated with 1/4" red and 1/8" black pinstriping tape.  Some
> of the side stripes are still available too.  I've heard that some 442
> stripes are available also, but in very limited colors.
> 
> Tom Lentz
> tlentz@ior.com
> http://www.ior.com/~tlentz/hurst.html
 
3303 calais
3394 67

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 18:00:44 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@intrlink.com>
Subject: Re: Aluminum hoods and accesory

Semantana Chris (ONEX) wrote:
> 
> > I believe export(Canadian) G bodies came w/ aluminum hoods or at least a
> > lot of them did.......Also I believe around 83-85 aluminum alternator
> > mounts were fazed in on all Olds 307's as I know that an 83 H/O desn't
> > have
> > them.
> >
> I thought many list members said that diesels had alum hoods?

Well he probably didn't mean ~exclusively~ canadian cars.  BTW they
weren't all diesels either.  Jason Adcock's `84 Calais has an aluminum
hood and it's all original with a 307.  (...Pausing while hundreds of
american G-body owners take a 'fridge magnet to their car to check the
hood :)  Most of the gas powered G-bodies i've seen have steel hoods,
mine included.  The hood on my calais rusts too much to be aluminum. :)

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser 
67 cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 17:56:59 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: A-Body Rack & Pinion

In a message dated 12/25/1998 12:46:35 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jonparke@together.net writes:

<< Is there any way to convert 67-72 A-body steering to a Rack & Pinion
system? >>


I'm sure you could.... the question is, why??

Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 14:45:13 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: body shop est.

Rock Man wrote:

> I hate to waste bandwidth here, but I have always been curious. Why is
> it, estimates differ from different parts of the country? I mean, the
> paint's the same......are some of the body men in some states worth
> more then in others? I could never figure this one out!
> 
> Del




I'm sure there are other reasons which account for
a geographical price spread.  But one is the good
old EPA.  Different regions of the country are 
subject to different standards than others.  
Areas with the strictest standards are required to
have quite elaborate (read expensive) paint booths
and equipment.  Which keep the ppm released into
the atmosphere to a very strict minimum.  
Of course these costs have to be passed along to the 
customer.  The cost of materials will also differ state 
to state (or county to county).  As they are subjected 
to different tax rates.  Some regions impose higher
taxes on hazardous materials.        
Here in the Portland area, we are subject to both the
EPA and our local air quality control agency (DEQ).
With the help of these two agencies, the cost
of paint work has risen dramatically in the past
five or so years.  Some shops have elected to 
eliminate painting altogether.  The Jaguar
repair/restoration shop across the street from
us now uses their paint booth as a storage area.
This was a state of the art booth not more than
twelve years ago.  But it no longer meets the new
regulations.   
We can also thank the EPA and DEQ for making
lacquer illegal to use or sell in Portland. 
Although lacquer is still legal to use or
sell in other parts of the state.


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Web Site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 18:00:59 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: master cylinder leak

Yes.  Yes.  Yes.  Yes.  Tip: Don't hesitate.  Don't use the car until the
repair is completed.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, December 28, 1998 4:12 PM
Subject: master cylinder leak


>Happy holidays to all. Hope you got the toy you wanted. I got an Eastwood
>adjustable stool on wheels with a tool shelf. Really cool. Now, down to
>business. My brake pedal had way too much travel yesterday and after
removing
>the MC cover, I noticed the larger compartment was half empty. I checked
all
>the usual places ie. calipers, lines etc. and it appears to be coming from
the
>back of the MC attached to the booster. Is this the probable place it would
>fail? Should i replace the MC?, and is it a pretty straighforward
proposition?
>Should I bench bleed the new one, etc? Any tips would be greatly
appreciated.
>Tia
>Bruce
>75 Delta 88 conv. (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 15:12:13 -0800 (PST)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: body shop est.

I just got my '70 cutlass painted.  Got it back from the shop less
than a month ago.  Mine cost me just under $3000 to do, including
stripping the original paint.  I got a basecoat/clearcoat job, but
there are a few minor defects.  I think that $4500 is not
unreasonable, as long as you get a good job done.  
     Mine took 3 months to finish, and he lost a bunch of trim.  Also,
my windows don't roll up right, and my interior is screwed up around
the rear window.  I'd reccomend taking pictures and video taping all
of the moving parts, as proof that the stuff was correct before you
bring it in.  I'm not trying to scare you, just don't want you to go
through the sh*t that I'm going through now.  Good luck, and I hope
that you get better treatment than I did.

Stefan Gadecki
       1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe




- ---Douglas J Harkema  wrote:
>
> Hi all,
> 
> I went out to see what it was going to cost me to get my 70 cutlass
convertible
> painted.  One guy would strip it and paint it for $4,500.  The other
guy
> wouldn't strip it but came up with between $3,500 and $4,000.
> 
> Are these good prices? Or at least in the ball park?
> 
> I'm in the Lansing Mi area    Any advice or comments would be greatly
> appreciated.
> 
> Thanks
> Doug
> 70 CS convertible
> Holt, MI
> 

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 18:08:10 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: master cyl.  replacement ??????/  w-31

This sounds like a job for SUPERCARS!  You can E-mail  Greg at
supercars@transport.com or pull up his site at
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com  Chances are real good he's got what you
want.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: W30442CS@aol.com <W30442CS@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, December 28, 1998 5:54 PM
Subject: master cyl. replacement ??????/ w-31


>hi all, im looking at replacement of the master cyl. on my 70 w-31, it`s a
4
>spd. ,  and of course has disc. on the front.  my problem is finding a
>replacement.  local parts store has nothing close to it.  checked year ones
>out , but it does`nt look the same as the one on there now.  mine looks
like
>the standard vac. disc. unit but has a threaded shaft coming out the back
that
>bolts onto the brake pedal.   i could rebuild mine, but i seem to recall
some
>one on the list saying these units use a diff.(o.d.) size plunger .   TIA.
>steven, w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 16:13:32 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Torque Converter Swap Backyard-Tech

>My 80 Turbo Trans AM came with the 12 in THM400 converter, it has the 6
>mounting boss' for the 6 bolt flywheel, but only 3 are actually installed.
>I have been told this is the famed GM6 converter used behind GM's high hp
>cars, but cannot truly confirm.  With a 301 Turbo I got about 1800 stall
out
>of it.  I hope to get a 11 in converter for it someday.....The 12in is too
>heavy.


I have a 12-inch converter in my '81 Delta (Th400, 455) and if I can keep my
foot as hard as possible on the floor, the highest I have been able to bring
it up to is 2200 and them the tires go up in smoke.  Otherwise if I just hit
the gas right of the bat, the tachometer sits comfortable at 4000 RPM
(blowing the tires away) until I decide to move the shifter into 2.  Igor.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 18:21:43 EST
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69 H/O Model

There are several all are ertl and 1/18th scale. I have a 69 H/O, a 69 silver
and red W30 442, a 69 black and white W30 442, a 69 aztec gold and black W30
442, and a red and black W30 442. I love them all and the wife complains that
I have tomany and am to old to play with models. I am just trying to get them
all to grow up and become full sized 442's what a dream!!!!! and cheap to at
19.99 apeice and 50.00 for the red one (it's 1/2500 limited production peach
state car). Chris

CHRIS SOMMERVILLE
69 442 SC
STARFIRE V8?

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1688
*********************************

