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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1662


oldsmobile-digest      Sunday, December 13 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1662



68 442 convert found?
Another Edelbrock aftermarket cylinder head?
RE: Another Edelbrock aftermarket cylinder head?
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1661
Re: Olds in Movies
Re: Another Edelbrock aftermarket cylinder head?
Non Olds Question
Re: 68 442 convert found?
RE: Non Olds Question
Re: Olds stereo
F/S: New Parts
Re: LIGHTENING RODS
Re: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST
Re: Loud Fan
Re: 350 better than 425?
RE: Loud Fan
Re: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST, longer!
Re: Is this a leaking well plug scenario?
Re: Loud Fan
Re: Loud Fan
Whats wrong with-----
water pump question
Re: reply to: ADMIN: Take Transactions Private Please
RE: reply to: ADMIN: Take Transactions Private Please
RE: water pump question
Re: Whats wrong with-----
RE: reply to: ADMIN: Take Transactions Private Please
Re: water pump question
Re: Whats wrong with-----
RE: Cars for sale in Atlanta
RE: reply to: ADMIN: Take Transactions Private Please
70-72 sports steering wheel and parts for sale
Starfire 425/455 swap???
A-body list yet ?
Re: Another Edelbrock aftermarket cylinder head?
Re: 350 better than 425?
Re: Another Edelbrock aftermarket cylinder head?
83 for $2300?
Apoligize
apology to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Re: Another Edelbrock aftermarket cylinder head?
RE: piston melting equipment
engine assembly 101
Re: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs
Re: Loud Fan
Re: reply to: ADMIN: Take Transactions Private Please
Re: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs
test  delete
Re: Starfire 425/455 swap???
Reply Attributions--Friendly Reminder
RE: 83 for $2300?
Re: Reply Attributions--Friendly Reminder
Re: piston melting equipment
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1661
Re: piston melting equipment
Re: piston melting equipment...forge followup
Re: engine assembly 101
Lightening Rods & parts
Lowering a Delta
Re: Lowering a Delta

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 12:16:55 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: 68 442 convert found?

I have found a 1968 convert. 442.  I have looked at it it has a 400 4 
speed muncie.  It has the rally gauges, the hurst 442 shifter, power 
top, 12 bolt rear, front and rear sway bars, and cutout bumper. It is in 
need of restoration.  It also has 442 emblems on glove box and trunk 
lid.  Has 442 hood. It is originally from texas.  The owner claims 
numbers match. The guy lost his job and has to sell it for christmas 
money.  It has been parked since 85.  He claims to have the original 
title.   I was unable to clearly read the numbers on the dash but here 
is the body trim tag.

    05C
ST  68-33667  LAN387513
TR  949       F-1

Does this seem correct?  How many convert 442's were made in 68

By looking in my Authentic restoration guide to olds 442 and w-machines 
guid says the 33667 means cutlass? How many cutlass converts were made?  
Thanks for the help.  

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 15:36:15 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Another Edelbrock aftermarket cylinder head?

Just got the updated JEG's cataologue.

165 new items....

Flip through.....

Pistons for Olds 455 (no 425) .. rods for Olds 455 (no 425) ...

Cylinder heads....... Performer RPM and.....????

(Whoah! The cube in my 12 year old single malt Scotch started to melt! Hey,
don't allow me to let that happen again!)

...(gulp)....

Woah!

According to JEG's there is a Victor Jr. Cylinder head for Olds V-8s!!!

(Uh does Victor Jr. mean small block? Catalogue does not mention
applications.)

"210cc intake posts and 0.130" raised 75cc exhaust ports. Works better with
standard port location manifolds and headers, plus has CNC gasket-matched port
entries and exits with blended valve bowls. Valve cover rails raised 0.150"
for extra valve train clearance.  Machined for 2.05"/ 1.60" valves."

List $855 bare, $1300 complete (roller or flat tappet).

Called JEG's already Karl (at JEG's) assured me that both Performer RPM heads
and Victor Jr. heads are for Oldsmobile, and not a typo.

DOH!

Dint ask if any were in stock!

Finally (providing that these exist), Oldsmobilers are catching the attention
of aftermarket manufacturers.

But then, we are a relatively "untapped" market.

Just checked Edelbrock.com and Jegs.com neither mention Victor Jr. Cyl heads
for Olds. Can anyone verify their existence w/o contacting JEG's?

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 15:44:30 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Another Edelbrock aftermarket cylinder head?

- -----Original Message-----

According to JEG's there is a Victor Jr. Cylinder head for Olds V-8s!!!

(Uh does Victor Jr. mean small block? Catalogue does not mention
applications.)

cool!!!
Victor jr. is a potency level in Edelbrock terms.

Performer-Performer RPM-Victor Jr.-Victor
or something like that, where a Victor cam, let's say, is more radical than
a performer RPM cam,
The bridge between per.RPM and Victor Jr. is often considered the difference
between reasonably streetable and too much for daily driver applications.
But, hey, that's opinions.

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 21:05:01 -0600
From: "Charles A. Dempsey" <cdemps@lsumc.edu>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1661

CCRR12@aol.com wrote:
  
> Norval, you are a stud.

I'll second that!

> It is probably the only certifiable collectable four-
> door hot rod.

I wondered if this car was an invention of Hollywood because there is no
mention of it in either;
1. The Cars Of Oldsmobile (Dennis Casteele),
2. The Standard Catalog of Oldsmobile (Chevedden and Kowalke) or 
3. The Old Car Price Guide. 

> Tell us more Norval.

Yes, yes! Please do! 

Got any pictures?

Charles

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 14:36:25 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
Subject: Re: Olds in Movies

well you are off by a year on the judge its a 70
396 was right
I think it was a 70 or 71 grabber
the second generation camaro with third generation wheels was a 73
dont remember the bronco at all or the vista but did see a 69 buick gs in
candy brandywine
also a 71 buick skylark and a 71 0r 72 olds cs or sx or some such...KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: mbloomer <mbloomer@gateway.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, December 12, 1998 12:37 AM
Subject: Re: Olds in Movies


>69 GTO Judge
>70 Chevelle SS 396 (454?)
>70(?) Superbird
>69 C10 shortbed
>69(?) Bronco
>71(?) Trans Am 455 w/shaker hood
>Red car with early 3rd Gen Camaro 15" aluminum 5 spokes
>7? Maverick Grabber
>76 El Camino
>?? Superbeetle conv.
>
>D*mn, that's all I can remember distinctly.  Now I'm going to have to
>go rent it again!
>
>Mike B
>mbloomer@gateway.net
>ICQ# 19113713
>72 Cutlass S (RIP)
>68 Cutlass Supreme
>
>>Since some of you seem so wise as to what cars were in movies,
>>I got a question for y'all.
>>
>>  What cars WERE actually used in the movie 'Dazed and Confused'?
>>
>>I must have watched that movie no less than six times hoping to
>>see mine, but only got close.  So which ones were used then?
>>
>>Mark MacDonald
>>1975 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale Convertible
>><http://home.earthlink.net/~greenmm>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 15:56:05 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Another Edelbrock aftermarket cylinder head?

In a message dated 12/12/98 2:37:32 PM Central Standard Time, KarlAune@aol.com
writes:

<< 
 According to JEG's there is a Victor Jr. Cylinder head for Olds V-8s!!!
 
 (Uh does Victor Jr. mean small block? Catalogue does not mention
 applications.)
  >>



...Man, Oh man, oh man...if these are small block specific heads....WATCH
OUT!!!
 I'm gonna be the first kid on the block with a pair!....I can just imagine a
set of them on my 330c.i. Cutlass 442 clone...Might change my mind and make
the fake my favorite!  I'm droolin' ... I'm seeing a forged steel cranked,
forged flat-topped, gear-driven, NOS fogged
nightmares...LOL...haha...LOL...ROTFLMAO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!hehehehe!

Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 15:56:05 -0500
From: Norval Minnear <norval@ictransnet.com>
Subject: Non Olds Question

My nephew has a 86 chevy monte carlo PROBLEM headlights don't work
interior lights and stero dash lights Don't work but has power to all
other components , has replaced headlight switch and checked all fuses,
to no avail ... does anyone no if these GM cars has a fuse link on these
items or does anyone no of a hidden fuse ??? any info or ideas
welcome////Bad GM Problem

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 15:08:01 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: 68 442 convert found?

>    05C
>ST  68-33667  LAN387513
>TR  949       F-1
>
>By looking in my Authentic restoration guide to olds 442 and w-machines 
>guid says the 33667 means cutlass? How many cutlass converts were made?  
>Thanks for the help.  

I don't have the production figures that you requested (there are SOME
figures in the FAQ, but I'm not sure how they are broken down), but I have
heard it mentioned more than a few times that the fact that the body trim
tag says Cutlass shouldn't concern you any - that genuine 442s built out of
Lansing (and possibly other sites?) were based on Cutlass bodies from the
get go (as opposed to being built from the ground up as 442s).

Best course of action for you would be to go back and clean off all the
crap so you can get a good look at the VIN.  That would eliminate quite a
bit of doubt.  The VIN for a 68 442 should read 344678M1xxxxxxx, where 3 =
Olds, 44 = 442, 67 = convertble, 8 = 1968, M = Lansing, Michigan, followed
by the sequential production number.

By the way, all of this information came from the FAQ -
http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm



- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 16:05:57 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Non Olds Question

Test to see if power is making even as far as the fuse.  With the blade type
fuses, the left side is where the power comes in.  Then is passes through
the fuse and exits on the left side.  So put a test light to the left side
of the fuse slot and see if there is power there.  If not, there is a
fusible link burnt somewhere, or even just a wire.  Hopefully, you have a
book with an electrical diagram that will tell you where the link is.  I
don't know off the top of my head.  If you can't figure it out, register the
car as an antique so your son can use that excuse for his daylight-driving
only.  Electrical problems are easy to figure out if you think of them as
trying to map out a destination on a map.  Obviously if a bridge is out, you
can't get there unless you rebuild that bridge or find a way to go around
it, ie. run your own wire.

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Norval Minnear
Sent: Saturday, December 12, 1998 3:56 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Non Olds Question


My nephew has a 86 chevy monte carlo PROBLEM headlights don't work
interior lights and stero dash lights Don't work but has power to all
other components , has replaced headlight switch and checked all fuses,
to no avail ... does anyone no if these GM cars has a fuse link on these
items or does anyone no of a hidden fuse ??? any info or ideas
welcome////Bad GM Problem

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 04:06:44 -0500
From: "person" <vbdeveloper@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Olds stereo

I purchased an under-dash mount from Pepboys. It's a black ABS case that
attaches to the bottom of the dash (8-track player in my case). It was only
$20....
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+
+
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
VBDeveloper@worldnet.att.net

                                       =
                                           =
                                                =
==================================
'69 Olds Ninety-Eight Topless Bubba=====
====666=================999============
         666                                        999
- -----Original Message-----
From: jason shreve <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, December 11, 1998 10:42 AM
Subject: Re: Olds stereo


>I have been VERY lucky on all of my cars, the dashes im my cars have
>been untouched.  You may want to do what I have done and install a cd
>changer in the trunk.
>
>
>>Hello fellow Olds lovers I recently purchased a 70 Cutlass Supreme with
>>a virgin dashboard that no damn kids have hacked up for some 20 dollar
>>half broken stereo and I remember my brother's 71 Cutlass Supreme had
>an
>>underdash tape player.  I was wondering if someone out there has one
>>they could sell me at a decent price or a company that sells these.  I
>>have A CD player that I want to install in the car and I refuse to HACK
>>UP the dash in my Olds and I know for a fact that the CD player fits
>>well into the underdash tape player.  If anyone has one PLEASE let me
>>know.  Keep in mind I don't care what color and I don't want the tape
>>player just the mounting brackets and the whole rest of the setup and
>>case that holds the tape player.
>>
>>
>>70 CUTLASS SUPREME
>>78 CUTLASS SUPREME
>>
>>______________________________________________________
>>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>>
>>
>
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 16:27:47 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: F/S: New Parts

Hello Everyone

	Here are some very nice new things we just got in today.

These parts are off a 16,000 mile car that was crashed extremely hard in
the front.
66-67 Dash Pad (MINT, Dk. blue)  $300.00
66-67 Chrome Dash Insert (MINT)  $275.00
66-67 AM Radio (like new)  $65.00
66-67 Glove Box Door (MINT)  $50.00
66-67 Window Cranks (Mint, Dk. blue)  $12.00 ea
67 A/C Vent / Heater Control (Mint, with like new cables)  $65.00
67-68 Deluxe Steering Wheel (MINT, Dk blue, NO cracks ever)  $350.00
67 442 Trunk Panel (Mint) $200.00
67 Cutlass 4 door Door Panels (MINT, Dk blue)  $100.00 for 4
67 Cutlass/F-85 Rear Bumper (Very nice)  $135.00
67 Cutlass/F-85 Front and rear seats (nice, Dk blue)  $150.00 both
66-67 Kick Panels (Mint, Dk blue)  $65.00 pr

87 442
83-84 Hurst & 85-87 442 Air Cleaner (with ram air duct, mint)  $185.00
87 442 Center Dash Insert (gray, nice)  $40.00
87 442 Pass. Side Dash Insert (gray, very good)  $30.00
87 442 Drivers Side Dash Insert (gray, very nice)  $35.00


Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts
(757)474-0869

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 15:42:44 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: LIGHTENING RODS

Ray, 
With the new shifter, tranny, and the 455 I'm sending you, should be a good
start. Do you need a new radiator cap, have one, chrome 15# to cap it all
off with, whos says "there no Santa Claus"!
Lou

- ----------
> From: Ray Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: LIGHTENING RODS
> Date: Friday, December 11, 1998 8:00 PM
> 
> It won't work.  Please send shifter and transmission to me to save
> aggrevation.
> No, it'll work just fine.  The H/O's have 200-4R's as well.
> 
> Ray Costanzo
> 87 409 Cutlass
> Bucks County, PA
> costanzo@netcarrier.com
> http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Trey W Taufmann
> Sent: Friday, December 11, 1998 2:25 PM
> To: OLDS
> Subject: LIGHTENING RODS
> 
> 
> I WANT TO PUT A CONSOLE AND LIGHTENING ROD SHIFTERS FROM AN '84 H/O INTO
> MY '87 CUTLASS.  WILL THERE BE ANY PROBLEMS HOOKING IT UP TO THE TH200
> OD TRANSMISSION??

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 15:49:46 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST

Yes, I average about 122 per day, figured it up once just for the heck or
it, per one month.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
- ----------
> From: Sprotten25@aol.com
> I don't know what ya'll are getting but I never get less than 100

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 17:16:59 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: Loud Fan

Yep, I got the clutch fan.  I have thought about replacing the clutch,
but if it didn't do any good, that would be $XX.xx that I just can't
afford to spend for something I am unsure of.
thanks,
Brian.

Ray Costanzo wrote:
> 
> I had a real loud fan on one of my Oldses just before the clutch went on it.
> This may have been coincidence, but it didn't seem like it.  It got quiet
> again after I replaced the clutch.  You have a clutch fan, yes?
> 
> Ray Costanzo
> 87 409 Cutlass
> Bucks County, PA
> costanzo@netcarrier.com
> http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Brian Shankle
> Sent: Friday, December 11, 1998 1:59 PM
> To: olds_gbody@listbot.com; oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Loud Fan
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> My 86 Cutlass 307 (Y) has got the loudest fan I have ever heard.  It is
> only loud when you first put the car in drive and go through first and
> half of second gear.  If you stop at a light and go the fan makes no
> noise, but if you shut it off and start it back up, whether it is hot or
> cold, the fan will roar but only in the first 1 1/2 gears.  After that
> it makes no more noise until it has been shut off and started back, and
> on and on.  I've never seen another one do this.  What causes it, and
> can it be fixed easily enough or should it just be left alone?
> Thanks,
> Brian.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 17:15:50 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 350 better than 425?

In my opinion the 425 engines from 66-67 are the best for performance, the 350
cant compare! 455s are great too, but the 425 seems to have the best combo.
                                                 rare73olds@aol
                                            73Cutlass 455/4spd
                                            65 442
                                             65 Cutlass
w/425,turbo400,410gears
                                              67 W-30
                                              66 Starfire 4spd

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 17:27:16 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Loud Fan

Brian,
A clutch is only like fifteen bucks.  But, there is no need to replace
something that is working, true.  I put on a clutchless fan a few week s
back, and at first it seemed real loud, but now I don't even notice it.  But
I have lost my mind recently from sitting in traffic jams on the Blue Route
with no car stereo.
Ray

- -----Original Message-----


Yep, I got the clutch fan.  I have thought about replacing the clutch,
but if it didn't do any good, that would be $XX.xx that I just can't
afford to spend for something I am unsure of.
thanks,
Brian.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 16:29:37 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST, longer!

To all,
I think I'm a damn good auto mechanic, I worked on all sorts of cars, I was
a new car line mechanic for Chrysler, raced Chevys and switched to Mopars,
now I'm all GM, predominately Olds, at least what's what I drive. Built
some dirt track engines, some NASCAR engines, and a bunch of drag chassis
and engines, taught a college course in machining, welding, and automotive
and diesel engines, but without THIS list I wouldn't know doodley sh*t
about Olds's in general. Without all the help I receive on this list, I
couldn't have put the 75 together as good as it is. I should not mention
anyone in particular without slighting someone, put I, personally, have
picked up a great deal of info, just by the association with this list, and
met some fine people, some buttheads too, but thats life, I'm sure someone
out there thinks I'm a butthead also, probably correctly. THE LIST, DON'T
CHANGE IT PLEASE!.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
PS I'm a Systems Manager now, need all the help I can get!
PPS Greg, your picture scared me too, but I only lost my sight for a few
hours, I do have periods of dizziness but the Dr. say's "It will go away,
Post Traumatic Stress something. Take care all!
- ---------
> From: Igor T. '81 DRB 455 <igor455@home.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST
> Date: Saturday, December 12, 1998 12:00 AM
> ........I have been learning a lot on this list. .....SCOTT

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 16:33:56 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Is this a leaking well plug scenario?

K, 
Empties the float bowls, have to refill every time you start, happened with
the Trans Am. Four starters later I fixed it.
Lou
- ----------
> From: KarlAune@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Is this a leaking well plug scenario?
> Date: Saturday, December 12, 1998 2:31 AM
> 
> Hi gang!
> 
> Quick question; does it sound like this gentleman's well plugs are
leaking?
> 
> [ (mutilated version)  I have a 1984 307/quadrajet. I have rebuilt the
top
> half of the carb and the car runs well. The problem I have is starting
after
> the car has been sitting for about 12-18 hours. It takes perhaps 10
seconds of
> cranking before the engine catches.  When I go away in the winter for a
couple
> of weeks, this will take about 45 seconds of cranking. The car gets good
> mileage and emission tests have shown normal values, so I assume there is
no
> leaking of the jets.  There is no smell of gas so I don't believe gas is
> leaking out of the carb.]
> 
> Karl guesses well plugs, but has not experienced same.
> Are these the symptoms of leaking well plugs?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> SOM
> 
> &KA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 16:52:20 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Loud Fan

Brian,
As Ray says, "the clutch", probably 99.9 % sure that it's the clutch, watch
me be wrong. Try Auto Zone, they're cheap, or salvage yard, can always
return it.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
- ----------
> From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Loud Fan
> Date: Friday, December 11, 1998 4:16 PM
> > I had a real loud fan on one of my Oldses just before the clutch went
on it.
> > This may have been coincidence, but it didn't seem like it.  It got
quiet
> > again after I replaced the clutch.  You have a clutch fan, yes?
> > 
> > Ray Costanzo
> > 87 409 Cutlass
> > Bucks County, PA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 17:04:43 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Loud Fan

Ray, 
You didn't put a stereo on your list, too late, Santa is too far behind to
add new items.
Lou
- ----------
> From: Ray Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: Loud Fan
> Date: Saturday, December 12, 1998 4:27 PM
> 
> Brian,
> A clutch is only like fifteen bucks.  But, there is no need to replace
> something that is working, true.  I put on a clutchless fan a few week s
> back, and at first it seemed real loud, but now I don't even notice it. 
But
> I have lost my mind recently from sitting in traffic jams on the Blue
Route
> with no car stereo.
> Ray
.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 17:36:13 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Whats wrong with-----

Timing!
All you guys must be married, We eat early and then we eat late, I've been
out all day shopping, taking care of Momma's needs, now I get about 4 hrs
to be on when no one else is on. Middle to late afternoon usually, feel
like the Lone Ranger, anyone remember who he is? Tonto, where are you when
I need you, still in town huh.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 15:53:26 PST
From: "flynt myrick" <f_myrick@hotmail.com>
Subject: water pump question

Are there any companies where you can send your original water pump  for 
a rebuild and get back your same original water pump? 

Any information will be appreciated. 

Flynt Myrick
f_myrick@hotmail.com
http://www.hotmail.com


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 15:55:03 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: reply to: ADMIN: Take Transactions Private Please

At 01:40 PM 12/12/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
>
>Which means that you really should make sure you post your addressin your
>post if a private reply may be necessary...
>

or just read the headers if you want to buy something

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 19:04:28 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: reply to: ADMIN: Take Transactions Private Please

Not to start an argunaent here, but notice the original message below.  Your
address is not listed anywhere.  Your name, but no address.  Is there
another place I may find this?  The signature is where I prefer to look, but
if there's some secret place I don't know about, please let me know.

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Bob Blanchard
Sent: Saturday, December 12, 1998 6:55 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: reply to: ADMIN: Take Transactions Private Please


At 01:40 PM 12/12/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
>
>Which means that you really should make sure you post your addressin your
>post if a private reply may be necessary...
>

or just read the headers if you want to buy something

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 19:05:24 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: water pump question

- -----Original Message-----


Are there any companies where you can send your original water pump  for 
a rebuild and get back your same original water pump? 

Why?  Just wondering?  Is this for all-original purposes?  

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo
 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 19:11:20 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: Whats wrong with-----

Not in town, in the junkyards!  It IS Saturday, after all. :-)
Brian.

Lou Biggs wrote:
> 
> Timing!
> All you guys must be married, We eat early and then we eat late, I've been
> out all day shopping, taking care of Momma's needs, now I get about 4 hrs
> to be on when no one else is on. Middle to late afternoon usually, feel
> like the Lone Ranger, anyone remember who he is? Tonto, where are you when
> I need you, still in town huh.
> Lou Biggs
> lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 16:19:07 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: RE: reply to: ADMIN: Take Transactions Private Please

At 07:04 PM 12/12/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Not to start an argunaent here, but notice the original message below.  Your
>address is not listed anywhere.  Your name, but no address.  Is there
>another place I may find this?  The signature is where I prefer to look, but
>if there's some secret place I don't know about, please let me know.
>
here are the relevent headers from the above message:
you are clearly listed in the "From" header. even the software 
you used to write the message is there, Microsoft-Outlook.

Delivered-To: bob149@spknpop1.spkn.uswest.net Received: (qmail 9132 invoked
by alias); 13 Dec 1998 00:05:31 -0000  From: "Ray Costanzo"
<costanzo@netcarrier.com> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca> Subject: RE:
reply to: ADMIN: Take Transactions Private Please Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998
19:04:28 -0500 Message-ID:
<002701be262c$26e04100$e8488dd1@costanzo.netcarrier.com> X-Mailer:
Microsoft Outlook 8.5, Build 4.71.2173.0 Sender:
oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca Precedence: bulk Reply-To:
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 18:24:29 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: water pump question

Ray and whoever posted this first, 
We have a couple of places in St. Lou that will rebuild what you bring in,
if it's within parameters, meaning, can it be rebuilt, seals, bearings, and
etc, cannot create a new impeller. pretty cheap also.
Lou 
lbiggs@intertek.net


- ----------
> From: Ray Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: water pump question
> Date: Saturday, December 12, 1998 6:05 PM
Are there any companies where you can send your original water pump  for 
> a rebuild and get back your same original water pump? 
> 
> Why?  Just wondering?  Is this for all-original purposes?  
> 
> Ray Costanzo
> 87 409 Cutlass
> Bucks County, PA
> costanzo@netcarrier.com
> http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo
>  

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 18:25:41 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Whats wrong with-----

Brian, 
Thought it was date nite.
Lou

- ----------
> From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Whats wrong with-----
> Date: Friday, December 11, 1998 6:11 PM
> 
> Not in town, in the junkyards!  It IS Saturday, after all. :-)
> Brian.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 19:27:51 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: Cars for sale in Atlanta

	------Original message :--------
> '84 H/O, 307, immaculate, $10,000 770-474-8791 Gene 
> '72 H/O, 455, 100% orig, $10,000 770-747-8791 Gene
> 
> 
Well folks, I made some mistakes with these two listings. Some of you
emailed me for the correction. I figured I'd sent it to everybody cause
someone may think one of these may be worth 10 grand and have the money to
get one ( I sure don't )

Corrected ads:
                           price on each one is $10,000 FIRM  (he said and I
didn't include) 
Gene Hallman 
Macon, GA
(912) 474-8791

Sorry about that...
 
Donny A.
>  
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 19:32:38 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: reply to: ADMIN: Take Transactions Private Please

> ----------
> From: 	Bob Blanchard[SMTP:bob149@uswest.net]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Saturday, December 12, 1998 7:19 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	RE: reply to: ADMIN: Take Transactions Private Please
> 
> At 07:04 PM 12/12/98 -0500, you wrote:
> >Not to start an argunaent here, but notice the original message below.
> Your
> >address is not listed anywhere.  Your name, but no address.  Is there
> >another place I may find this?  The signature is where I prefer to look,
> but
> >if there's some secret place I don't know about, please let me know.
> >
> here are the relevent headers from the above message:
> you are clearly listed in the "From" header. even the software 
> you used to write the message is there, Microsoft-Outlook.
> 
> Delivered-To: bob149@spknpop1.spkn.uswest.net Received: (qmail 9132
> invoked
> by alias); 13 Dec 1998 00:05:31 -0000  From: "Ray Costanzo"
> <costanzo@netcarrier.com> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca> Subject: RE:
> reply to: ADMIN: Take Transactions Private Please Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998
> 19:04:28 -0500 Message-ID:
> <002701be262c$26e04100$e8488dd1@costanzo.netcarrier.com> X-Mailer:
> Microsoft Outlook 8.5, Build 4.71.2173.0 Sender:
> oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca Precedence: bulk Reply-To:
> oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca 
> 
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 19:34:36 EST
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: 70-72 sports steering wheel and parts for sale

Happy Holidays list, Hope that you all have a great X-Mas day. I have a 70-72
sports wheel in good shape has a nick on it and the base needs repainted
asking 175 or best offer. also a floor shift column $50, and a set of 72 442
mirrors. They are red and drivers side has a remote. I Believe that they are
the standard 72 442 mirror and I know that they are a little different shaped
than the 70 sport mirrors I have. Any way asking $50 for them. All Items are
plus shipping. Will trade for 69 442,C/S parts. I am not an expert on 72's
someone provide me with some help here. I am located in Fayettevile NC, Thanks
Chris

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 19:44:36 EST
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Starfire 425/455 swap???

I found a solid starfire GT today and would like to do a 425/455 swap. Has
anyone on the list tryed it? even a 350/403 swap would be a good runner.
questions, Headers&Motor mounts, anyone make them ? Or would I have to weld it
up. Come on list give me some imput on this one I would keep it pure OLDS and
could have fun with the MOOOSTANG boy with it. Thanks Chris

CHRIS SOMMERVILLE
69 442SC
70 442HC 
& V8 STARFIRE GT??

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 19:54:09 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: A-body list yet ?

I was wondering if anyone knew of an A-Body list in existence.
Doesn't have to be pure Olds.
I know the olds g-body list has helped a few of you 'focus' on a specific
chassis.

Thanks alot,
Donny A

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 20:26:30 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Another Edelbrock aftermarket cylinder head?

Already checked it out. It's a misprint. They are for small block FORDS.
Hate to burst that bubble. I asked the salesman and he looked it up first in
the catalog and then by computer with the part number.

- -----Original Message-----

>According to JEG's there is a Victor Jr. Cylinder head for Olds V-8s!!!
>
>(Uh does Victor Jr. mean small block? Catalogue does not mention
>applications.)
>
>cool!!!
>Victor jr. is a potency level in Edelbrock terms.
>
>Performer-Performer RPM-Victor Jr.-Victor
>or something like that, where a Victor cam, let's say, is more radical than
>a performer RPM cam,
>The bridge between per.RPM and Victor Jr. is often considered the
difference
>between reasonably streetable and too much for daily driver applications.
>But, hey, that's opinions.
>
>Ray Costanzo
>87 409 Cutlass
>Bucks County, PA
>costanzo@netcarrier.com
>http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 20:38:56 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: 350 better than 425?

In a message dated 12/12/98
 1:<BR25:<BR53 PM Central Standard Ti, DrkSole96@aol.com writes:> Hi, I was
talking to my mechanic the other night about installing a new tranny
>  in my car.  I told him that I planned to swap the 350 for a 425, and he
said
>  it was a bad idea, since in his opinion the 350 is a better motor than the
425
>  or 455.  He didn't really go into details though, anyone else have a view
on this?

Sole,

You mentioned that it was "his opinion". Since he didn't support the opinion
with facts (or details), you have no reason to think that it was an informed
opinion. Better for what? Better in what ways?

I'd ignore it.

Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 20:49:47 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: Another Edelbrock aftermarket cylinder head?

In a message dated 12/12/98
 2:<BR37:<BR38 PM Central Standard Ti, KarlAune@aol.com writes:> (Whoah! The
cube in my 12 year old single malt Scotch started to melt! Hey,
>  don't allow me to let that happen again!)

Karl,

I won't let it happen again. I'm on my way to take your malt away. NO one
should be permitted to put water of any kind in malt. If it needed more water,
the distillers would have put it in.

This isn't just a religious issue..it's far more important, it is whisky we
are discussing.

Cheers/Carron
Clan MacDonnell of Glengarry

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 20:48:41 -0500
From: "Bill B." <Pianotuner@fastservice.com>
Subject: 83 for $2300?

I have seen an 83 Cutlass on a used car lot with a price of $2300 on the
window.  I plan on going in for a closer look.  It has a sexy paint job.
What characteristics of an 83 Cutlass model would make it worth $2300? I
have seen other Cutlass models of that era list for $1300.

Bill Bussell

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 20:55:45 EST
From: GraphixRUs@aol.com
Subject: Apoligize

Hey Jim!
 I 'm sorry I haven't gotten back too you.
 I just got out of the hospital again. 
 I was off work when I  saw you at Charlotte.
 I'm not wure when I'll be going back to work so I have to try to sell some
stuff for my  wife to do.
 Do you think you might still be interested in some t-shirts?
 Also, what is the phone # of the Olds Super Mechanic you  were telling me
about  up near you in va?
 Anxious to here from you. Roger Utter

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 21:01:28 EST
From: GraphixRUs@aol.com
Subject: apology to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

Like I said , I just got out of the hospital again & am on 80 mg. prednisone.
 Thought process all messed up. 
 Thread was supposed to go to J&m.
Roger

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 20:37:18 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Another Edelbrock aftermarket cylinder head?

>Already checked it out. It's a misprint. They are for small block FORDS.
>Hate to burst that bubble. I asked the salesman and he looked it up first
in
>the catalog and then by computer with the part number.
>
ARRGGG!!!!  I had just gotten my hopes up too!  Checked in the catalog
and saw the 60cc chambers.  Talk about Ultra High Compression!!!
Maybe next Christmas.  Better get my letter in to Santa now.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 22:00:43 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: piston melting equipment

DBrode wrote:

> >  I use a standard oxy-fuel torch, with a "rosebud" tip to melt the
> pistons. It only takes a minute or so to melt them down, but
> > i make sure the aluminum's good and hot before i pour.
> 
> 
Lab experiment with propane

I just heated a 1" round brass plug that has a thermocouple inbedded in it
on the back side. I heated it using a handheld propane torch and was able to
get it to 977 deg  before I ran out of gas ( torch was about empty to start
with ).

Has anyone used a propane torch for melting pistons yet? Is this the
"standard oxy-fuel torch" , Dave?

Can I actually achieve 1200 + deg with propane?  AND keep it above that till
I pour?

After I put flame to the pistons for melting, do I then put the flame under
the skillet or keep it on the molten metal?

Thanks in advance
Donny    

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 22:24:11 -0600
From: "patrick derkacz" <patrickd@wwnet.com>
Subject: engine assembly 101

Rebuilding the 400  for  the '69 442.  Questions,

    top ring-bevel side down? right
    2d ring- dot side up? right

I looked at the Mondello supertuning figures which say the top ring should
be .011-.014 and the 2d should be .010-.012.

Well, the second ring out of the box is .017.  What's up with that?  I mean,
I know the stock clearance is .020 but what the heck am I supposed to do
now?

This motor is fresh from the machine shop at .030 over with a brand new set
of .030 over pistons.  So why is it to loose ? (granted, just slightly)Do I
just bite it and take what I can get?

How will the slightly looser rings (though still within factory specs)
affect the motor?  Slightly less compression? Or is this no big deal?
I am not going to be racing this (not seriously, anyway)

patrickd@wwnet.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 19:32:52 -0800
From: babyboo@pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs

You' all better watch what you type, Or Greg will send you a note
concerning proper edicate for this list. If you have a problem with each
other, Maybe you should take it to a private posting. Ok, now i'll get
off my soapbox. Less bitch'en, More Olds relaited stuff.

Ray Costanzo wrote:

> -----Original Message-----
>
> and another thing Fu-Q and the Police.
>
> Ryan
>
> suck my sack

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 19:45:05 -0800
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@ior.com>
Subject: Re: Loud Fan

You may have the wrong fan clutch.  I'd look for any signs that it may not
be the original one, like new bolts, it being cleaner, etc.  I had to
replace the one on my '84 and Napa said they had two, the regular and a
heavy duty.  I got the HD one thinking it was probably right since the H/O
has the heavy duty cooling system.  Wrong!  Sounded like a helicopter on the
front of my engine :-)

You also might want to verify that it's a thermostatically operated one and
not a centrifugal one.  The thermostat one has a bimetal coil on the front.

Tom Lentz
tlentz@ior.com
http://www.ior.com/~tlentz/hurst.html

Brian Shankle wrote:

> My 86 Cutlass 307 (Y) has got the loudest fan I have ever heard.  It is
> only loud when you first put the car in drive and go through first and
> half of second gear.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 23:13:31 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: reply to: ADMIN: Take Transactions Private Please

Listmembers,

Ray has a point, there are some e-mail systems out there that don't list the
original sender in the mail you recieve.  AOL gives me that information, but
Ray's must not.  So, let's be a little more sensitive to the needs of others
and list our addresses at the end of our postings.  Only takes a little more
typing, and would really help out those on those different mail systems out
there, OK?

Now don't give me a bunch of crap about sensitive men, or I'll whine about it,
I SWEAR I'LL WHINE ABOUT IT! :-)

Take Care,
Ken "Without Money For Race Cars" Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 22:17:26 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs

Correct, 
Stand by Ray, no need for this kind of garbage.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
- ----------
> From: babyboo@pacbell.net
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs
> Date: Saturday, December 12, 1998 9:32 PM
> 
> You' all better watch what you type, Or Greg will send you a note
> concerning proper edicate for this list. If you have a problem with each
> other, Maybe you should take it to a private posting. Ok, now i'll get
> off my soapbox. Less bitch'en, More Olds relaited stuff.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 23:31:34 -0500
From: "Bill Reilly" <wjreilly@erols.com>
Subject: test  delete

Bill Reilly
mailto: wjreilly@erols.com
Web Page: (Not yet)

My Garage:
'83 Cutlass Ciera 
'84 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 23:31:03 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Starfire 425/455 swap???

Chris,

What year Starfire GT?  I drive an 80 GT every day, and I'm considering
installing a 350 in it, with either a 4-speed or 5-speed OD trans if I can
find one.  The 231 V-6 just scares me to death that one day I'll lose oil
pressure altogether and be stuck.  I purchased the entire manual transmission
setup out of the B-word model and hope to work this project up when I redo the
body work, possibly next winter.  The gent I bought the stick shift stuff (say
that real fast 10 times!) is installing a 350 B-word V-8 in his with an auto.
The thing I'd be curious to know would be if there's sufficient clearance in
the firewall for a HEI distributor rear-mounted.  I know I'd go with an
electric fan for some extra clearance and found out that I can have my 3-row
radiator enlarged to a 4-row that'll fit in the stock location for just a
little of that folding green fertilizer of life.  Heck, 350 power, stick
shift, 14 X 7" wheels (set of SS1's), functioning A/C, and a set of Mirage (C-
word Monza package) body panel extensions and I'll have something truly
original to drive, and the mileage won't suffer too much (20 mile drive each
way to and from work).  If anyone has done this, I'd like to hear about it.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 00:03:19 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Reply Attributions--Friendly Reminder

Evenin' Ya'll,

I would like to make one teeny little request.  Actually, I think it's
already been suggested. We really need to watch our attributions on our
replies.  See the example below.  I don't believe Ray wrote that.  At
least, I know he didn't write all of it. What I think may have happened
(I know because I've made the same mistake) is that the person who
posted the reply below reply did it while reading Ray's post.  If you
simply press the Reply to Sender button in your e-mail client, it will
list the most recent respondent, in this case Ray, as the author, even
of text he merely quoted.  Also, even if all of Ray's comments were
snipped out and the stuff he never wrote remains, he'll still be listed
as the author. Unless you're absolutely sure you're actually quoting the
person correctly, it may be a good idea not to include anyone's name on
a reply.  Just a hint.


Ray Costanzo wrote:

> -----Original Message-----
>
> and another thing Fu-Q and the Police.
>
> Ryan
>
> suck my sack

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 00:43:14 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: 83 for $2300?

Guaranteed 307

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Bill B.
Sent: Saturday, December 12, 1998 8:49 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 83 for $2300?


I have seen an 83 Cutlass on a used car lot with a price of $2300 on the
window.  I plan on going in for a closer look.  It has a sexy paint job.
What characteristics of an 83 Cutlass model would make it worth $2300? I
have seen other Cutlass models of that era list for $1300.

Bill Bussell

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 21:48:33 -0800
From: babyboo@pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Reply Attributions--Friendly Reminder

Me thinks Greg has already spoken on this subject. This thread is dead.

"Thomas P. Smith" wrote:

> Evenin' Ya'll,
>
> I would like to make one teeny little request.  Actually, I think it's
> already been suggested. We really need to watch our attributions on our
> replies.  See the example below.  I don't believe Ray wrote that.  At
> least, I know he didn't write all of it. What I think may have happened
> (I know because I've made the same mistake) is that the person who
> posted the reply below reply did it while reading Ray's post.  If you
> simply press the Reply to Sender button in your e-mail client, it will
> list the most recent respondent, in this case Ray, as the author, even
> of text he merely quoted.  Also, even if all of Ray's comments were
> snipped out and the stuff he never wrote remains, he'll still be listed
> as the author. Unless you're absolutely sure you're actually quoting the
> person correctly, it may be a good idea not to include anyone's name on
> a reply.  Just a hint.
>
> Ray Costanzo wrote:
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> >
> > and another thing Fu-Q and the Police.
> >
> > Ryan
> >
> > suck my sack
>
> --
> Thomas P. Smith
> 1971 Cutlass S 350
> smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 00:09:42 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: piston melting equipment

>Has anyone used a propane torch for melting pistons yet? Is this the
>"standard oxy-fuel torch" , Dave?
>

"standard oxy-fuel torch" is an oxy acetalyne (sp?) torch which uses two
seperate tanks, one with oxygen the other acetalyne.  The two are mixed
at the nozzle.  This is your famous cutting torch, with the right tip.

>Can I actually achieve 1200 + deg with propane?  AND keep it above that
till
>I pour?
>
>After I put flame to the pistons for melting, do I then put the flame under
>the skillet or keep it on the molten metal?

I believe that the idea of using the cast iron skillet is that the skillet
will
hold the heat and even it out.  Once you heat the skillet past the melting
point of the pistons it will hold the heat and keep the aluminum liquid
long enough for you to pour it.  Basically the higher you heat the skillet
the longer you will have to pour the aluminum because it will take longer
for the iron to dissapate the extra heat.  As far as doing it with a propane
torch the key thing is that the original post refered to using the "rosebud"
tip which is fairly large and has a large flame so your able to heat a
larger
area.  If your propane torch has a small flame tip then your only going to
be able to heat a small area at a time which, if your trying to heat
something as large as a skillet, will allow the rest of the surface area to
dissapate the heat.  Of course could always be wrong.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 22:11:32 -0800
From: "Mike Jones" <mike@gleep.com>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1661

> 
>      Mike, what was your original post about? I can't even remember now!
You
> post to get answers, not to get on other topics 

hehehe, I wanted to know specific ways I could supertune a Q-jet for my '78
Delta.  I need to rebuild it.  Either rebuild the one on the car, or put
together the one I have on the workbench (float level is actually set on
that one!  I just need the vacuum breaks and their linkage).

( I know, I contribute to the
> off-topic stuff) But was it in you original post that your secondaries
were
> sticking? If so, maybe I can help..one quick vacuum thing...if you have a
> constant vacuum leak, the car will tend to run bad at idle, but smooth
out at
> higher engine temps. I'm sure you already knew this. 

My secondary butterflies are fine.  The secondary air valve on top of the
carb (not the actual secondarys) is sticking, at least the last time I
worked on my car.

      However, the secondaries sticking could be 3 things in my mind, that
I
> have seen. The spring for the air valves is tight, binding, or gummed up,
the
> air horn was tightened down in an incorrect sequence, or, more common if
the
> secondary metering rods have been removed, replaced, inspected, is that
the
> hangar is binding somehow. One of my carbs did this, I just loosened the
> screw, and opened and closed the valve by hand a couple of times, then
> tightened back down, and re-checked. Solved my problem. Just my thoughts,
and
> figured I ought to try and help, Dorian

I'll try that in the morning, sounds like a good idea to do so anyways. 
Gonna fool around with the air valve spring a little bit also.  Maybe
that'll fix it.
 
MIke Jones
'78 delTa (350/TH350/102k)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 01:18:29 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: piston melting equipment

In a message dated 12/13/98
 12:<BR11:<BR33 AM Central Standard T, mbloomer@gateway.net writes:> If your
propane torch has a small flame tip then your only going to
>  be able to heat a small area at a time which, if your trying to heat
>  something as large as a skillet, will allow the rest of the surface area to
>  dissapate the heat.  Of course could always be wrong.


But you are right, Mike. It would take 20 to 30 "standard propane torches" to
heat an iron skillet to the melting temp of aluminum. This is not a matter of
temperature only. What is required is heat. Best way to get it is with a
forge, gas or coal...even charcoal, I hesitate to say. this latter always
seems so simple until you try it. Nevertheless, if you can get a *deep* bed of
charcoal going, and blow it with a hair dryer from the bottom, you will get
the skillet hot enough to melt aluminum. at the same time, everything in a 2
block radius <VBG> will be covered with fine charcoal ash.

If anyone wants more information on forges, of any type, email me and I'll
answer questions. I should say, if you INTEND to build one. This is a big
technical discipline and I could spend the rest of my days fielding "casual
interest" questions. :-) I will help anyone who wants to make one.

Best forge...brake drum, blower, coal.

Cheers/Carron
piss-poor blacksmith

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 01:27:11 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: piston melting equipment...forge followup

A followup on my last post. I apologize for the tone of that post. I didn't
mean to come off high-handed, but (I'm really sleepy) I think I did.

I will certainly give anyone who wants it the benefit of my limited
blacksmithing experience. This list has been very generous to me, and i will
make every effort to return that generosity.

I have some pictures of a brake drum forge somewhere on this computer which
I'll send to anyone who wants it. these things are so simple to make and so
much fun to use that any mech-head should have at least two or three. Once
you've taken a broken car spring and made a knife or a special wrench or
punch, you'll wonder how you did without the skill so long.

If you want to make a propane forge (large gas bottle from a grille), I think
I can find a couple of websites for you.

Cheers/Carron
piss-poor communicator <G>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 00:26:28 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: engine assembly 101

>I looked at the Mondello supertuning figures which say the top ring should
>be .011-.014 and the 2d should be .010-.012.
>
>Well, the second ring out of the box is .017.  What's up with that?  I
mean,
>I know the stock clearance is .020 but what the heck am I supposed to do
>now?
>

Maybe it's just me but this doesn't sound real clear but I assume your
talking
about ring to piston vertical clearance.  Keep in mind that your optimal
clearances are dependant on what type of pistons your using.  Just the same
way your piston to bore clearance is different for cast of forged pistons
it's
the same for ring to piston clearance.  Now if by chance your talking about
ring end gap then if you really want the shorter end gap you have to get
file-to-fit rings.

>This motor is fresh from the machine shop at .030 over with a brand new set
>of .030 over pistons.  So why is it to loose ? (granted, just slightly)Do I
>just bite it and take what I can get?
>
>How will the slightly looser rings (though still within factory specs)
>affect the motor?  Slightly less compression? Or is this no big deal?
>I am not going to be racing this (not seriously, anyway)
>
Still don't know which spec your talking about but regardless being
within .005" of optimal while still within factory isn't something to
loose sleep over.  Extra ring end gap will allow more blow by past
the ring gap but will you ever notice .005".  No.  A little extra
clearance is fine and definately better than a little less.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 01:34:29 -0500
From: "R. Grant" <kgrant442@home.com>
Subject: Lightening Rods & parts

In the spring I will be putting a new trans in my 80 Cutlass, I will be
going with a 700-r4 & if money permits a rebuilt Olds 350.
I have to get a new console or part of one, with shifter & cable to go with
the new overdrive Trans. Were the Lightening Rod shifters used with
Overdrive Trans? If so can you use that with the 700-r4 Trans.
If you can what is the going price for a lightening Rod?
Sorry missed all the talk on this item.
Also I have some parts for sale or trade.

Items for sale
C-heads 66-67 200$
M21 Trans  400$
Bell Housing 100$
2-425 Blocks B.O.
Standard Flywheel (Mondello New in box for pre 68 Olds) 400$ or B.O.
4-14" chrome Olds Rims good condition B.O.
One 70 350 #6 heads 310 horse Needs rebuild B.O.

Looking for 2 or 4 15" chrome Olds rims do not have to be 442 rims
Lightening Rod shifter w/ cable & parts & console top plate.

Thanks
Kevin Grant
80 Cutlass
Brampton ont.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 23:45:47 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Lowering a Delta

When I get the Delta out of the body shop, I plan on lowering it about 1" or
1.5".  I know that I have to cut the front springs but don't know by how
much.  I don't really want to install/reinstall more then once if I don't
have to.  For the rears I plan on using a set of metal crimps with bolts to
bring two coils together.  Because of the pig-tail end I don't know how else
to lower the rear.  Also, if I don't like it, I can just remove the crimps
and get new front coils.  My rear coils are new TRW units.  I also will
install coil-over-shocks.  I want the whole car down but the rear to still
sit higher for that mean look.  How much AND how should I cut the fonts.
Igor.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 01:02:35 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Lowering a Delta

Igor,
As far as how to cut the coils the best way is a grinder with a cutoff
wheel in it.  Don't use a cutting torch whatever you do.  Hacksaw
would work if there's no other option.  As far as how much to cut
that's a tough question.  It all depends on the length, wire diameter,
and coil diameter so the best way to make sure you don't go too
far is to go 1/4 coil at a time.  Make sure you measure the hieght
from the frame to the ground while the car is sitting level before
and after the first 1/4 coil.  This will let you estimate how much
more you will have to take out.  It's a pain in the #ss but that the
fun of lowering by cutting coils.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>When I get the Delta out of the body shop, I plan on lowering it about 1"
or
>1.5".  I know that I have to cut the front springs but don't know by how
>much.  I don't really want to install/reinstall more then once if I don't
>have to.  For the rears I plan on using a set of metal crimps with bolts to
>bring two coils together.  Because of the pig-tail end I don't know how
else
>to lower the rear.  Also, if I don't like it, I can just remove the crimps
>and get new front coils.  My rear coils are new TRW units.  I also will
>install coil-over-shocks.  I want the whole car down but the rear to still
>sit higher for that mean look.  How much AND how should I cut the fonts.
>Igor.
>
>Igor Todorovic
>
>1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
>
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1662
*********************************

