Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1651


oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, December 8 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1651



Re: model info
Re: compression test
Re: Head bolt torque specs/blown gasket/best heads
Re: compression test
Re: Great movies
Valve covers
Re: Rechroming
Re: Lic Plate Resto help
Re: NOS???
Re: Looking for 68 steering wheel!
brakes H*LP on 70 Cutlass
For Sale
For Sale (fwd)
Big valves. (Was Head bolt torque specs)
RE: Head bolt torque specs/blown gasket/best heads
BOP race  show times
Re: Air Bags (what are they)
RE: compression test
Re: Rechroming
Re: Titanium valves
Re: compression test
Re: Parting '66 Delta,
Re: Electronic odometer reads "error"
Re: question
Re: brakes H*LP on 70 Cutlass
Re: G Body Steering wheel column swap
Re: The J-2 intake was: Intake?
Re: G Body Steering wheel column swap
Re: Electronic odometer reads "error"
Re: Great movies -Reply
Re: Great movies -Reply
Re: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold
Re: Front Control Arms
(no subject)
Joining!
Re: (no subject)
1965 98 Oldsmobile Supreme
RE: Joining!
RE: Titanium valves
Brake swap. Drum to disc ?
Re: Ball Joint?
Re: Joining!
UNBOUNCE: Valve Covers
UNBOUNCE: Want to Buy '65 98
F-85 info desired
Re: Joining!
UNBOUNCE: 
Johnny Lightnings (fwd)
Re: model info
Joining
Re: brakes H*LP on 70 Cutlass
Re: Your 1970 98 was: Re:
Re: model info
Re: model info
Re: brakes H*LP on 70 Cutlass

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 18:18:49 EST
From: W451973@aol.com
Subject: Re: model info

soory steve, the closest you can get is to by a johan 70-442 and then a set of
fred cady decals. good luck.   dennis     w451973

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 17:28:53 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: compression test

Kevin, 
If the rest read within 10%, it means your are within specs, but, what is
normal for your engine?
Lou
- ---------
> From: Kevin Grover <Atvman@rochester.rr.com>
> To: Oldsmobile mailing list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: compression test
> Date: Monday, December 07, 1998 9:35 PM
> 
> If I put a pressure gauge in one of my plug holes and cranked the engine,
> and got a reading of 135 psi, what does that mean???

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 17:39:29 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Head bolt torque specs/blown gasket/best heads

Ray,
Don't have the book, but 85 to 100 ft lbs is a lot, our old Hemi heads,
cast iron were only 90 lbs. that was 14.7 comp. Olds must use a lot,
apparently.
Lou
Pity you can have in huge amounts, money is a different matter, you could
have it, I just don't have it to supply. wish I knew more about OLDS',
someone here must have the info. Good luck, hope it's just a gasket
- ----------
> From: Ray Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
> To: Classic Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Head bolt torque specs/blown gasket/best heads

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 17:42:44 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: compression test

Atmo, 14.7 lbs at sea level, varies with air density.
Lou

- ----------
> From: Arnold, W D <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
> To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject: RE: compression test
> Date: Monday, December 07, 1998 10:27 PM
> 
> Kevin,
> A ballpark figure of compression can be estimated using this value. 
> ( If anyone has an 'AUTOMATH' copy, please verify this for me....)
> 
> (Cylinder Pressure - Atmospheric pressure) / Atmo = C.R.
> Atmo for my area ( 1000 ft ) is about 14.7 psi.
> 
> (135 - 14.7) / 14.7 = 8.18367:1 CR
> 
> Second opinions? Joe P. ? Dave B. ?  Help me fellows.....
> Donny A.
>  
> 
> > ----------
> > From: 	Kevin Grover[SMTP:Atvman@rochester.rr.com]
> > Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Sent: 	Monday, December 07, 1998 10:35 PM
> > To: 	Oldsmobile mailing list
> > Subject: 	compression test
> > 
> > If I put a pressure gauge in one of my plug holes and cranked the
engine,
> > and got a reading of 135 psi, what does that mean???
> > 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 17:32:57 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
Subject: Re: Great movies

the car that was wrecked at the end of vanishing point was a 67 camaro shell
but it was towed to the bulldozers by a hemi-cuda automatic transmission car
(very rare)it was one of the stunt cars used for a few of the drive bys
- -----Original Message-----
From: R. Grant <kgrant442@home.com>
To: olds list CA <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, December 07, 1998 7:30 PM
Subject: Great movies


>I liked Vanishing Point it had a good car chase but in the very last part
of
>the movie the car they distroyed looks like a 67 Camero.
>Did anyone see Gone in 60 Seconds? It had a 45 min car chase with about 85
>car wreaked.
>I feel that this might be the best car chase movie
>
>Kevin Grant
>80 Cutlass
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 18:47:09 -0500
From: "Dave Mairs" <dmairs@awod.com>
Subject: Valve covers

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_003E_01BE22DB.297888E0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Wanted: Set of 5 hole, preferrably stock, chrome valve covers for a =
1977-78 350 Olds motor.All I can seem to find are 10 hole. Please =
respond to dmairs@awod.com or snail mail at Dave Mairs 3020 Marlin Rd. =
Suite 102 Johns Island, So.Carolina 29455-3903 Thanx, Dave

- ------=_NextPart_000_003E_01BE22DB.297888E0
Content-Type: text/html;
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
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<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Wanted: Set of 5 hole, preferrably =
stock, chrome=20
valve covers for a 1977-78 350 Olds motor.All I can seem to find are 10 =
hole.=20
Please respond to <A href=3D"mailto:dmairs@awod.com">dmairs@awod.com</A> =
or snail=20
mail at Dave Mairs 3020 Marlin Rd. Suite 102 Johns Island, So.Carolina=20
29455-3903 Thanx, Dave</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_003E_01BE22DB.297888E0--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 18:01:33 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Rechroming

K,
Do they put cadmium in Cuervo? Forgot why I asked. #9,#9,#9,#9
Lou

- ----------
> From: KarlAune@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Rechroming

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 18:50:35 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Lic Plate Resto help

In a message dated 12/7/98 7:35:05 PM Central Standard Time, tjf26@gte.net
writes:

<< 
 I have a set of 71 license plates that I am restoring. I striped them
 and painted the plate color. That came out great. My question is does
 anyone have any advise/techniques for painting the letters. On the other
 plates of that year it appears they were kind of rolled on. I tried
 masking it off but it doesn't come out right. I also tried useing a very
 fine roller but it dosen't work very well either. Brush leaves brush
 marks. Any ideas would be very helpful.
                               Thanks >>


You might try taking a baking sheet(cookie sheet) and just barely putting
enough paint in the sheet to cover the bottom of the pan...then lay the
liscense plate face down in it for a sec., then remove and let dry face
down...suspended by the outside edges of the plate

Collyn Eastham
65 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 18:57:01 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: NOS???

In a message dated 12/7/98 9:51:34 PM Central Standard Time,
creme1ma@cmich.edu writes:

<< 
 > What does NOS stand for when referring to parts,  I know that it is the
name
 > of a company that makes nitrous products.
 
 It stands for New-Old Stock. It means it's an original part that was
 never used. >>
I thought it stood for "New-Overpriced-Sh**!"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 18:04:29 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Looking for 68 steering wheel!

Joe, 
Funnneee, but the truth.
Lou
- ----------
> From: Padavano.Joe@orbital.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Looking for 68 steering wheel!
> Date: Tuesday, December 08, 1998 9:02 AM

> HAHAHAHAHAH  That's a riot.  A _Corvette_ part cheaper than an Olds part!
> You kill me!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 19:11:31 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: brakes H*LP on 70 Cutlass

Does someone have an explanation as to why I have to put the brake pedal
on The Unit almost to the floor before I get any braking power? Then it
breaks like a normal car, just really touchy. The brake resevoir is
full. Does this mean that it could seriously use some new pads? I know
nothing about brakes so please excuse my ignorance.

BTW- The Crapiece will be leaving shortly. I'm selling it to a friend
without a car for $100. In return, the folks are getting me a 92 Regal.
Black, 2dr., red leather, 80K mi. $5000., good college car!!!
- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***************************
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 V-8 4 bbl)
1975 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (250 I-6 1 bbl)
1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (350 V-8 2 bbl)
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4 bbl)
*******************************************
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 19:05:34 -0500 (EST)
From: shadowrunner <dgoldste@ramapo.edu>
Subject: For Sale

- - Items used, from NJ, buyer pays shipping
- - E-mail direct if interested in any parts below:

1) '86 Rochester Quadra-Jet Computer Controlled, excellent condition $190
obo

2) complete wiring harness, and electronics (includes ECM) and emmissions
control hardware from a 1987 Monte Carlo SS $200 obo

3) Edelbrock #3706 Performer intake manifold $140 obo

4) K&N 4x14" filter $20

5) Complete air cleaner assembly from Monte Carlo (single snorkel) $30 obo

6) Engine fan with clutch $20 obo

7) OEM air conditioning compressor bracket from '87 Monte Carlo for use
with R4 compressors $40 obo

8) A/C compressor hoses for R4 compressor, excellent condition $40 obo

9) Crane CompuCam #2030 duration @ .050": 210/216, gross valve lift:
.423/.446 , Lobe separation: 114 , approx. 15K used with synthetic oil $60
obo

10) '87 Monte Carlo SS ECM $60 obo

11) small diameter hei distributor, needs new est module, current one has
cracked connector $50 obo

thank you,

Dan Goldstein
201.684.5388

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 19:07:15 -0500 (EST)
From: shadowrunner <dgoldste@ramapo.edu>
Subject: For Sale (fwd)

- - Items used, from NJ, buyer pays shipping
- - E-mail direct if interested in any parts below:

1) '86 Rochester Quadra-Jet Computer Controlled, excellent condition $190
obo

2) complete wiring harness, and electronics (includes ECM) and emmissions
control hardware from a 1987 Monte Carlo SS $200 obo

3) Edelbrock #3706 Performer intake manifold $140 obo

4) K&N 4x14" filter $20

5) Complete air cleaner assembly from Monte Carlo (single snorkel) $30 obo

6) Engine fan with clutch $20 obo

7) OEM air conditioning compressor bracket from '87 Monte Carlo for use
with R4 compressors $40 obo

8) A/C compressor hoses for R4 compressor, excellent condition $40 obo

9) Crane CompuCam #2030 duration @ .050": 210/216, gross valve lift:
.423/.446 , Lobe separation: 114 , approx. 15K used with synthetic oil $60
obo

10) '87 Monte Carlo SS ECM $60 obo

11) small diameter hei distributor, needs new est module, current one has
cracked connector $50 obo

thank you,

Dan Goldstein
201.684.5388

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 15:54:11 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Big valves. (Was Head bolt torque specs)

Igor T. '81 DRB 455 wrote:
> 
> Thanks for the info.  But do you agree that the bigger valves (even 1.625)
> can be cut into any olds v8 head.  I am also interested in putting 2.000 &
> 1.625 valves in my 5A heads (or bigger valves anyway).  So, IS IT POSSIBLE
> to put the bigger valves into the 307.


Igor,

Many of the cylinder heads used on the earlier V8's 
were fitted by the factory with small or large valves.
Such was the case with the aforementioned GA heads.
For performance applications, I prefer to start out
with the small valve versions.  And fit them with
larger ones.  This allows for forming a better 
rolled radius blend from the valve pocket area to 
the seat.  In the case of the late model, light 
weight castings such as the 307, I'll have to admit 
having a lack of hands on experience to advise how 
much material can be safely removed when fitting 
them with larger valves.  What you might want to 
do is pick up a head at a wrecking yard and play 
around with it.  If you have access to a band saw, 
cut the head in half.  This will give you a clear 
picture of how much material can be removed.

Hope this helps.

Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249

Web site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com
- -------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 19:09:54 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Head bolt torque specs/blown gasket/best heads

Sorry to send to the list, my address book decided to delete itself.  stupid
computers...
- -----Original Message-----


Noooo.  I guess that overheating problem got the better of you.
Yeah...
What makes you think the head/gasket is cracked.

Well, a real fine mist that always come from both exhaust pipes.  I tried to
convince my self that it was just condensation, but after specifically
filling my rad. to a certain level and then checking it two weeks later, I
realized that it really is coolant.

I hope that with the new heads, the heat problem is gone.

Yeah, ne too!

pI assume that you ported your 7a.

Actually, no.  But, if I have to pull them off again, that may be a good
excuse.

though that if you have no problem blowing away a '96 Vette, your car is
pretty damn good.  If memory serves, those are 13 second cars so you should
be faster.

Yeah, they're like 13.5 cars.  Judging by the diffence in performance, ny
car's probably a 13.49 car!  Well, nto really.  But it is a close match.  Of
course the Oldsmobile will always dominate.

 If you are not running them already, I think that headers would
be a great choice.

No headers.  I am so hesitant to get some until I see someone else's Cutlass
with them already.  I want to see how well they fit, if I'll still be able
to steer, if I can expect to melt some things away underhood, etc. etc.
Anyone?

Also, if memory serves, you got 3.08s.

Hey, you're pretty good.

  You can always
upgrade to 3.23s or 3.55 or so for improved power and still decent cruise.

Sure wish I had a 200-4R so I could go with 5.13's or something (8^0

I am sure that you know all this crap, but am just voicing my opinion.
And it's appreciated!
 Here
in Canada, for me to get a set of Edelbrock heads would cost much more then
my entire motor/tranny budget was.

Yeah, screw that Edelbrock crap.  I've heard things that aluminum brings no
benefits over iron if everything else is the same.  Something like, sure you
can run higher compression, but the combustion chamber temperature drops, so
you lose about the same amount of power there as you gained from the copm.
increase.  This I choose to believe so I avoid nuying $1700 heads!

 AS IF.  Being a University Student,
every olds dollar spent actually has a better place where it could be spent

I spent all my student loan miney on my car and wound up living on credit
cards and now I'm paying back my massive amounts of debt.  But when the
debt, or anything for that matter, gets on my nerves, I just go do a
burnout.  8^]

(in other peoples eyes, not mine)

ha ha


 Change a waterpump while
you are at it.  Just kidding.  Igor.

Yep, might as well.  That's a hobby of mine.   seeya.  Hey, send me your
address.
Rabia

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 19:11:04 -0500
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: BOP race  show times

track opens at 7 am the 12th raceing starts at 1 pm cost to race is 35
and to watch is 10 bucks rain date is sunday the 13th.  test and tune is
the 11th at 7 pm to 11 pm  I do not know what time the show is
   Butch  68  442  post

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 18:20:41 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Air Bags (what are they)

David, 
Yes, on both Qs'.  On slippery surfaces Posi is great-as long as your going
in a straight line, but, on curves a open rear end will provide more
stability then a Posi because one wheel will not be spinning, and hence
will provide sideways stability. Does that make any sense? I always know
what I am trying to say, just can't spit it out. Hemmingway I am not!
Lou

> Lou,
> Thanks. Since the right rear will lift, slightly more air in the right
> side bag works against the lifting, in effect equaling the right to the
> left. Correct?
> 
> How about slippery surfaces, like rain, and sand on the road? Same idea
> for posi and an open diff?
> 
> -- 
> David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
>           Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
> http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 19:21:36 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: compression test

I think the "atmo" in the equation is referring to the constant, 14.7 lb/in.
So if your atmospheric pressure is 14.2 somewhere, it'd be: (135-14.2)/14.7



- -----Original Message-----


Atmo, 14.7 lbs at sea level, varies with air density.
Lou

> Kevin,
> A ballpark figure of compression can be estimated using this value. 
> ( If anyone has an 'AUTOMATH' copy, please verify this for me....)
> 
> (Cylinder Pressure - Atmospheric pressure) / Atmo = C.R.
> Atmo for my area ( 1000 ft ) is about 14.7 psi.
> 
> (135 - 14.7) / 14.7 = 8.18367:1 CR
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 18:24:41 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Rechroming

Mike, 
Getting smarter all the time, thats a neat set up. thanks for the info.
Lou
From: Mike Rothe. <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Rechroming
> Date: Tuesday, December 08, 1998 3:21 PM
Exactly Joe.  That's what Custom Coatings does in Florida here.  Got my
> original H/O emblems rechromed using this process.  They somehow coat
> the plastic in a low temp copper plating solution, then buff smooth the
> copper, the plate it normally as you would a bumper.  Then polish to a
> brilliant reflection.  I can see that it's gonna hold up FAR better than
> the original plating did, and the cool part is that it doesn't look like
> some cheesy aftermarket repro.  Hence, with the coating of copper, then
> chrome, some of the superfine details suffer a bit compared to vacuum
> aluminizing, but for the H/O emblems, they look superb.  
> 
> Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 18:25:12 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Titanium valves

Gary,
Used the Mondello main stud/strap kit for my 350 so they do have 
them for SB's.  For the open web's you would have to go to 
something more like a full girdle.  Really doubt if anybody has 
put the engineering effort into shoring up a web'd block but 
a girdle sounds to be about the only way to really reinforce
it unless you weld up the webs.  Good luck.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>Anyone have info on a possible manufacturing source for Titanium Head
>valves. Also looking for anyone having info on or success at,
>Closing/reinforcing  the open web blocks. I know Mondello has a main cap
>strap/stud kit for the BB. But don't know if the "Open Web" SB has counter
>parts or can be fitted. Will probably use 330 forged crank and cryogen
>bearings on this 403ci. You may mail directly to:
>mailto:gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com  Thanks
>
>-----Regards,
>
>Gary J. Couse

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 19:26:25 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: compression test

350 with stock cam (1977 motor) 175 psi - after installing Edelbrock Perf. RPM
cam 155 psi.  Hope this helps!
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a 'glide :-(
'75 Supreme - project car....
'82 Supreme - SB, 700R4, 3.73's - Grin!
'86 Supreme - V-8 - daily driver...

Arnold, W D wrote:

>         Ken cleverly wrote:
> > So I would
> > think any compression ratio you could figure from a compression
> > test/formula
> > would definatly be ballpark.  Like one the size of Idaho..
> >
> DOOOOHHHHH !!!!
>    *cough*   *cough*   Uhhh,   *clear throat*       ..   soo, uhhh, are you
> having a good ...ahhh   laugh ?

>
> I know I am!!!  You got me on that one.
>
> Really, I did find the numbers listed in  "MOTOR's Service/Repair Manual"  I
> know that the big cams do distort these readings alot.  I have a big cam too
> but I don't remember my reading being to low.  I need to check it again to
> see.
>
> Anyone else have some numbers to share?
>
> Donny

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 19:18:30 -0500
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Re: Parting '66 Delta,

Mr. Hufnagel,
	I am very interested in the dash pad and pass. side bezel. I might be
interested in the bumpers and drivers side front fender. What kind of shape
are these parts in?
			TIA
			R. Kevin Noon
			66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
			85 Delta 88 Royale Broughan

- ----------
> From: Edward J Hufnagel <ejhufnagel1@juno.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Parting '66 Delta,
> Date: Tuesday, December 08, 1998 1:42 AM
> 
> Hi.  Am parting  my '66 Delta 88.  Have full set of wheel covers.  E-Mail
> private if you want anything.  Car is located in New York, 1 hour fron
> PA. and NJ. border and about 2 hours from Conn. border.  Not looking to
> get rich + shipping
> 
> Regards,
>                 E.J.
> 
> ___________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
> or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 19:31:49 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Electronic odometer reads "error"

I never thought to ask what your milage was!  You found the problem!  This
exact same thing happened to my buddy's '89 Caddy except he had 200,000 miles
on it - he was driving along looked down to watch it turn to 200,000 and ERROR
popped up - he called the dealership to ask what the deal was... They said
they had never seen one with 200K on the clock and couldn't offer him a fix!
He even checked with a couple different dealerships to see if there was a way
to reset it and to this date has yet to find anybody that knows how to correct
the problem!  At least you still have the option of switching it to miles to
check for the neat things like when to change oil etc. - sorry I couldn't be
of more help!
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a 'glide :-(
'75 Supreme - project car....
'82 Supreme - SB, 700R4, 3.73's - Grin!
'86 Supreme - V-8 - daily driver...

kib7@usa.net wrote:

> More info on this problem:
>
> There is a button on the dashboard, switching between 'kilometers' and
> 'miles' mode. Normally I use it in 'kilometers' mode - I am in Canada.
> And the odometer shows 'error'.
> When I tried to put it into 'miles' mode, the odometer showed my normal
> mileage - 124K miles which is 200,000km. It immediately came to mind
> that the odometer is capable to show only '0' or '1' as the sixth digit so
> anything above 199,999 is displayed as 'error' . Although this idea
> doesn't sound reasonable or realistic to myself.
>
> Any other opinions?
>
> Konstantin
>
> >
> >Hello All,
> >
> >Problem:
> >Oldsmobile Cutlas Supreme SL 1991, V6 3.1L has a digital dashboard.
> >After replacing the dead battery with the new one I started the engine.
> >Naturally all the previous settings for the clock, radio, A/C were
> >forgotten, it happens every time you disconnect the battery.
> >
> >But this time the odometer displayed the word "error" instead of
> >mileage.
> >
> >Question:
> >Is there any way to restore the original mileage reading or at least
> >reset the
> >odometer to some reasonable value?
> >
> >Thanks in advance, all opinions will be appreciated.
> >
> >Konstantin
> >Ottawa, Canada
> >

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 18:35:48 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: question

Not to many people out there like yourself wanting to hop up late
model Olds' (or domestic FWD's for that matter) so your kind of
out of luck.  As far as engine stuff you could look to the import
performance mags (insert flame here) since a lot of thier mods
for MPFI translate over and at least gives you a starting point.
For body/suspension stuff your kind of on your own finding a 
supplier for parts.  Keep in mind that you'll have to adapt parts
intended for other cars, etc but a lot can be done yourself 
(intake ducting, ram air) for cheap if you know how to turn a 
wrench.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>I have a 1995 Cutlass Supreme convertible, and am wanting to know if
>Oldsmobile had a magazine like that of mustang 5.0. The reason I want to
>know is that I would like to be able to modify it in some way but I
>don't know what is out there. Mustang 5.0 has tons of mod stuff in it
>for all Mustangs, I am a Mustang buff too, and it would be cool to see
>if Oldsmobile has something like that. If you have any input as to this,
>please let me know. Thanks for your help.
>
>Chris Hansen
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 19:46:05 -0500
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Re: brakes H*LP on 70 Cutlass

Just my $.02, It sounds to me like your self adjusters in the rear wheels
aren't doing their job.
Provided there isn't any air in your system, which could also be a problem,
your rear brakes need adjusting. Normally they self adjust when the car is
driven backwards and the brakes are applied. However, if you don't do much
reversing, they can get jammed up and not adjust when you do reverse. Just
something to think about.
				R. Kevin Noon
				66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
				85 Delta 88 Royale Brougham

- ----------
> From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
> To: Oldsmobile List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: brakes H*LP on 70 Cutlass
> Date: Tuesday, December 08, 1998 7:11 PM
> 
> Does someone have an explanation as to why I have to put the brake pedal
> on The Unit almost to the floor before I get any braking power? Then it
> breaks like a normal car, just really touchy. The brake resevoir is
> full. Does this mean that it could seriously use some new pads? I know
> nothing about brakes so please excuse my ignorance.
> 
> BTW- The Crapiece will be leaving shortly. I'm selling it to a friend
> without a car for $100. In return, the folks are getting me a 92 Regal.
> Black, 2dr., red leather, 80K mi. $5000., good college car!!!
> -- 
> ***********
> Matt Cremean
> mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
> ***************************
> 1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 V-8 4 bbl)
> 1975 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (250 I-6 1 bbl)
> 1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (350 V-8 2 bbl)
> 1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4 bbl)
> *******************************************
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
> *******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 19:40:18 -0500
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Re: G Body Steering wheel column swap

Hi listers,
	Since I'm seeing a lot of posts about steering column swaps, what do 
you
think of this: I want to put the tilt column from my  85 Delta 88 Royale
Brougham (when it finally dies) in my 66 Dymamic 88 Convertible. This will
give me the locking mechanism, cruise control, and high beam switch as an
added benefit. Anybody got any advice on this one?
				TIA
				R. Kevin Noon
				66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
				85 Delta 88 Royale Brougham (for now)

- ----------
> From: Ray Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
> To: monte-list@spots.ab.ca; gbody@listbot.com; ChevyEngines@listbot.com;
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca; GBodyLover@aol.com
> Subject: RE: G Body Steering wheel column swap
> Date: Tuesday, December 08, 1998 6:03 PM
> 
> This is a straight forward swap that can be done in an afternoon. I
believe
> there are only four bolts holding the column in at the firewall.  And as
far
> as compatability with other g-bodies, don't worry about that.  You could
> take a steering column from a 79 International Scout II and bolt it right
> in, so yuo know that the g-body ones will interchange.  The wires and all
> should have the same harness.  That's a GM standard.
> And for fixing that not-returning turn signal, that definitely justifies
a
> swap.  All that needs to be replaced is a simple little spring, but you
> can;t just buy a little spring.  You have to spend like a hundred bucks
for
> the whole assembly if you don't happen to have an extra spring lying
around
> already.  A whole column's probably cheaper!
> What's a pin out problem?
> 
> Ray Costanzo
> 87 409 Cutlass
> Bucks County, PA
> costanzo@netcarrier.com
> http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: GBodyLover@aol.com [mailto:GBodyLover@aol.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 1998 5:41 AM
> To: monte-list@spots.ab.ca; gbody@listbot.com; ChevyEngines@listbot.com;
> oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: G Body Steering wheel column swap
> 
> 
> The G-Body Organization Mailing List - http://www.g-body.org
> 
> I'm looking into the possibilities of replacing my stock non-tilt
steering
> column with a tilt model from another G body. From what I can see by
reading
> my Haynes manuel, there doesn't appear to be any differences in the
columns
> between the makes
> (Chevy, Pontiac, Olds, Buick). Has anyone done this before? I know that I
> can
> probably expect some pin out problems, but if that's it, I'll be happy.
How
> hard is it to take the darn thing out anyway, I've been eyeballing mine
and
> it
> looks pretty straight forward. This swap will give me the perfect
> opportunity
> to fix the broken left turn signal indicator (won't turn off after
turning).
> I
> know that there is a really easy way to do this, but I have to justify
the
> swap somehow right?!?!?!?!
> 
> 
> ______________________________________________________________________
> To unsubscribe, write to gbody-unsubscribe@listbot.com
> Start Your Own FREE Email List at http://www.listbot.com/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 19:47:54 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: The J-2 intake was: Intake?

Karl,
    I had to go look at mine again, the studs for the vac. are there 
(untouched!)
and the ones for the carbs are screw in type - in fact it looks as though the 
ones
for the vac. linkage may be screw in also!  Did the originals come with press 
in
studs or?
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a 'glide :-(
'75 Supreme - project car....
'82 Supreme - SB, 700R4, 3.73's - Grin!
'86 Supreme - V-8 - daily driver...

KarlAune@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 98-12-06 15:23:26 EST, you write:
>
> <<    Thank you for the info - it is a #571145 - Do you or anyone on the list
> know
>  of someone looking for one of these manifolds?  It is in nice shape, still
> has
>  about half of the original carb studs there, but no carbs or linkage...  If
> you or
>  anyone else knows of someone - please email me privately.
>  Thanks again,
>  Todd Daenzer >>
>
> About ~half~ !!!!!
> This means at about 7 bolts of a minimum of 14 studs are broken?
> (there were also studs for the vacc-operated linkage)
> Not looking at it now, there may be more than 14.
>
> Well, it is now not particularly desireable.
>
> Gotta say that this intake and others like it are why 1960 and later intakes
> accomodated carbs by way of bolt holes.
>
> Your intake "could" have the broken studs drilled and tapped for replacements
> that will result in it "looking" original if everything is bolted on, but 
this
> skill is not in my grasp.
>
> I mentioned mine (good shape) was a ~steal~ at $60.
>
> If I did not have one, I might offer less for yours.
> As I do....no need...
>
> Sorry, but the same would go for a cracked 1966 W-30 Tri-power intake.
> It would still be worth about $400 because it fits a modern motor, but worth
> much less than examples in good shape.
>
> Sorry.
>
> SOM
> &KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 19:04:38 -0600
From: matt and danielle <harleyms@rollanet.org>
Subject: Re: G Body Steering wheel column swap

the column swap is an easy job just make sure to get the main column and the 
shaft
that runs from the column to the sterring box. there are different length 
columns
so be sure to either get the matching shaft to go with the column or make sure
that your new column and the old one are the same length. i made the mistake of
getting a tilt for mine and not getting the shaft, and to make a long story 
short
i painted the tilt to match had my old one out of the car and couldn't use the
tilt LOL
i sold it to someone a little more into fabricating than myself, and got the 
whole
thing the next time

see ya
"Rat Matt"

RatMalibu@AOL.com
harleyms@rollanet.org

GBodyLover@aol.com wrote:

> The G-Body Organization Mailing List - http://www.g-body.org
>
> I'm looking into the possibilities of replacing my stock non-tilt steering
> column with a tilt model from another G body. From what I can see by reading
> my Haynes manuel, there doesn't appear to be any differences in the columns
> between the makes
> (Chevy, Pontiac, Olds, Buick). Has anyone done this before? I know that I can
> probably expect some pin out problems, but if that's it, I'll be happy. How
> hard is it to take the darn thing out anyway, I've been eyeballing mine and 
it
> looks pretty straight forward. This swap will give me the perfect opportunity
> to fix the broken left turn signal indicator (won't turn off after turning). 
I
> know that there is a really easy way to do this, but I have to justify the
> swap somehow right?!?!?!?!
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> To unsubscribe, write to gbody-unsubscribe@listbot.com
> Start Your Own FREE Email List at http://www.listbot.com/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 19:46:16 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Electronic odometer reads "error"

Rebel1 wrote:

> I never thought to ask what your milage was!  You found the problem!  This
> exact same thing happened to my buddy's '89 Caddy except he had 200,000 miles
> on it - he was driving along looked down to watch it turn to 200,000 and 
ERROR
> popped up - he called the dealership to ask what the deal was... They said
> they had never seen one with 200K on the clock and couldn't offer him a fix!

Now that an answer has been found, I've been watching this thread with amused
interest.  I was willing to bet that Microsoft designed the odometer.  In which
case, an error or lockup would be normal operation!! :-)  I just thought they
didn't have enough characters to say, "This odometer has performed an illegal
operation and will be shut down."  There, I'm done now.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 19:57:17 EST
From: DrkSole96@aol.com
Subject: Re: Great movies -Reply

In a message dated 98-12-08 14:06:54 EST, you write:

<< Actually that was "Bullitt" with Steve McQueen, but yes, that
 was one of the best. "French Connection" is another, and they had
 a genuine GM car... (Okay, it's a Pontiac, and they needed about
 seven of them  :-)
 
 For a really outstanding web page devoted to the car chase in
 "Bullitt", you've got to check out >>
 I don't know, I've seen the car chase in Bullitt and I wasn't really that
impressed.  I mean, yeah, the cars are pretty cool, but they chase doesn't
really do much.  "White Lightning" with Burt Reynolds has far superior car
chases, imho, even though they were using 71 LTD's.  
Olds Content:
In the begining credits of "Trading Places" with Eddie Murphy, a rusted out 73
Cutlass Surpeme drives past some guys playing basketball.  real short glimpse.
DrkSole96
73 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 19:34:10 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Great movies -Reply

Yeah, 
But you are prejudiced.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net


- ----------
> From: DrkSole96@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Great movies -Reply
> Date: Tuesday, December 08, 1998 6:57 PM
In the begining credits of "Trading Places" with Eddie Murphy, a rusted out
73
> Cutlass Surpeme drives past some guys playing basketball.  real short
glimpse.
> DrkSole96
> 73 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 19:38:24 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold

Yep, just got their 98 catalog and it list the Torker 455 for
400-425-455 motors.  Anybody out there know of a 
single plane intake for small blocks?  Real long shot.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>
>
>mbloomer wrote:
>
>> Would be nice to have a Performer RPM for the big guys though.
>> >
>> >Mike Rothe
>> >
>> Yeah, but you do get the Torker which we "little" guys don't get.
>>
>> Mike B
>> mbloomer@gateway.net
>> ICQ# 19113713
>> 72 Cutlass S (RIP)
>> 68 Cutlass Supreme
>
>  Does Edelbrock still make the Torker for the big Olds'?
>Sorry if this has already been adressed, I'm a couple days behind.
>
>Shane Gibreal
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 20:45:16 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Front Control Arms

Greg

        I have a whole bunch of extra control arms. If you want a set let me
know. $100 for a 
of 4. 

Jim C

At 11:47 AM 12/7/98 , you wrote:
>
>Sometime over the next while I will be upgrading my '68 Curtlass to front
>disks. While the front end is apart it will make sense to clean up and
>paint the area, replace the bushings, etc. From reading the posts here it
>seems that it can be quite a task to get the upper and lower control arms
>off. Then there would be considerable work involved in refreshing
>everything before they could be installed. 
>
>I was thinking that perhaps it would be easier to just get a full set of
>upper and lower front control arms from a parts car and do the work at my
>leisure, then I could just bolt them on when the other work is underway.
>Any thoughts on this approach? Anybody got a set taking up space they want
>to get rid of? How heavy are these things anyway?
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 20:37:39 EST
From: Pzeditor@aol.com
Subject: (no subject)

remove oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 19:51:13 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Joining!

All, 
Have my credit card in hand, want to join OCA, should have a while back but
there was some controversy going on, reply while I'm in the spending mood.

Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 19:52:15 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: (no subject)

What!!!


- ----------
> From: Pzeditor@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: (no subject)
> Date: Tuesday, December 08, 1998 7:37 PM
> 
> remove oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 18:59:39 -0800
From: "Jon Preston" <12oclockrush@email.msn.com>
Subject: 1965 98 Oldsmobile Supreme

Hello

    I use to own a 1965 98 Oldsmobile supreme and am trying to find the same
car to restore and purchase. If anyone is selling a 1965 98 Olds send me
some email or if you know anyone that is selling one.  I use to own one when
I was a young lad and would like to own one again. Thanks alot

Sincerely, Jon Coker Preston

12oclockrush@msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 20:59:26 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Joining!

Call Summit and order one 502ci crate engine and deliver to Sellersville, PA
to join OCA.  All major credit cards accepted.

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Lou Biggs
Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 1998 8:51 PM
To: Olds List
Subject: Joining!


All,
Have my credit card in hand, want to join OCA, should have a while back but
there was some controversy going on, reply while I'm in the spending mood.

Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 21:01:14 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Titanium valves

Thanks for the reply Mike...

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

ICQ# 5209322 = "CC-IROC-SS"
Personal ICQ Communication Center:
http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322 

Custom Conversion Prototype: 
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
Project Questions To:
mailto:cc-iroc-ss@CC-IROC-SS.com 

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of mbloomer
Sent: Tuesday, December 08, 1998 7:25 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Titanium valves


Gary,
Used the Mondello main stud/strap kit for my 350 so they do have 
them for SB's.  For the open web's you would have to go to 
something more like a full girdle.  Really doubt if anybody has 
put the engineering effort into shoring up a web'd block but 
a girdle sounds to be about the only way to really reinforce
it unless you weld up the webs.  Good luck.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>Anyone have info on a possible manufacturing source for Titanium Head
>valves. Also looking for anyone having info on or success at,
>Closing/reinforcing  the open web blocks. I know Mondello has a main cap
>strap/stud kit for the BB. But don't know if the "Open Web" SB has counter
>parts or can be fitted. Will probably use 330 forged crank and cryogen
>bearings on this 403ci. You may mail directly to:
>mailto:gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com  Thanks
>
>-----Regards,
>
>Gary J. Couse

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 21:10:05 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: Brake swap. Drum to disc ?

Hello folks,
I have a Q about the prop. valve used on my 72 olds holiday coupe.

I'm swapping from Manual drum to Power disc on the front and need to know if
there was a different prop. valve used for the power disc cars.

Is this swap detailed in the FAQ ? I'm having trouble finding out about the
prop. valve usage.

Thanks alot,
Donny A.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 20:09:06 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Ball Joint?

Don't know about your particular car but you'll have to see if their
riveted or pressed in.  Normally the uppers are riveted in and the
bottoms are pressed.  The factory rivets em in and you have to
bust the rivet head or drill em out.  The replacement ones come
with bolts instead.  Bushings can be beat out but you might want
to just save yourself the headache and pull the arms off and take
them to a local shop to do the ball joints/bushings.  The main
labor of the job is getting the arms off and on anyway so you'll still
save a bunch of money.  Wish I could be of more help.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>Anyone ever swap ball joints?  And Control Arm Bushings?
>
>I have to do them on my 91 Bonneville, and the rear control arms are nearly
>identical to the front on the older RWD cars.  What is the proceedure for r
>& r of them?
>
>Thanks!
>Thomas Martin
>80 Turbo Trans AM
>85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
>91 Bonneville LE 3800
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 20:12:38 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Joining!

Thanks, buddy, whats your address exactly, want to make sure you get it.
Along with the letter bomb! Do you know their address, I saved it but it's
six months old, doesn't work.
Lou

- ----------
> From: Ray Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: Joining!
> Date: Tuesday, December 08, 1998 7:59 PM

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 22:12:06 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Valve Covers

Not on the list, respond to dmairs@awod.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Dave Mairs" <dmairs@awod.com>
Subject: Valve covers

Wanted: Set of 5 hole, preferrably stock, chrome valve covers for a =
1977-78 350 Olds motor.All I can seem to find are 10 hole. Please =
respond to dmairs@awod.com or snail mail at Dave Mairs 3020 Marlin Rd. =
Suite 102 Johns Island, So.Carolina 29455-3903 Thanx, Dave

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 22:14:27 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Want to Buy '65 98

Not on the list, respond to 12oclockrush@email.msn.com if you can assist.
(Yes, I know there is no such thing as a 98 Supreme...)

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Jon Preston" <12oclockrush@email.msn.com>
Subject: 1965 98 Oldsmobile Supreme

Hello

    I use to own a 1965 98 Oldsmobile supreme and am trying to find the same
car to restore and purchase. If anyone is selling a 1965 98 Olds send me
some email or if you know anyone that is selling one.  I use to own one when
I was a young lad and would like to own one again. Thanks alot

Sincerely, Jon Coker Preston

12oclockrush@msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 21:14:37 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: F-85 info desired

So what's the deal with the turbo F-85's?
Year, engine type, size, turbotype, turbo powered by both manifolds (if V
engine)?  aluminum whas it>

Thanks y'all

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 20:13:32 -0600
From: "Mark Tupper" <mtupper@palacenet.net>
Subject: Re: Joining!

Hi Lou,

>Have my credit card in hand, want to join OCA, should have a while back but
>there was some controversy going on, reply while I'm in the spending mood.


Well, put your credit card away and get out your checkbook. :-)

The easiest way to join is to go to the OCA website ( www.oldsclub.org ),
click the Join button, and print and mail the order form you find there.

- -Mark Tupper     1987 442    (OCA 30666)
mtupper@palacenet.net     http://cyberglyphs.com/442/
Olds G-body Mailing List    http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 22:17:44 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 

Not on the list, respond to slater442w30@hotmail.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"scott slater" <slater442w30@hotmail.com>
Subject: H*LP 78 CUTLASS SUPREME DUAL EXHAUST

I am trying to get a shop to put dual exhaust on my 78 Cutlass Supreme 
and they all tell me that all they can do is put single exhaust on my 
car and add dual tips because of the crossmember.  Now I know the 
crossmember is kinda low but I have seen it done.  I read somewhere 
about using a different crossmember out of another car.  If so what 
cars.  H*lp me please!!!

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 22:19:18 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Johnny Lightnings (fwd)

From Doug Kitchener... forwarding.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Douglas Kitchener <dk0009@mail.pratt.lib.md.us>
Subject: Johnny Lightnings

Olds listers,

There is a Johnny Lightning series called "Stock Car Legends" ("Authentic 
Replicas of Famous Stock Cars!"), and back in October, I found a Cale 
Yarborough, #11, 1st Nat'l City Travelers Checks, Olds Cutlass.  I guess it's 
a 
'77 car, but could be '76... _not_ a '78 fer sure, because that's when they 
were 
downsized.  Car is white over kinda a butterscotch color with a red stripe 
dividing the 2.  Roof is red & blue with a big 11 on it.  Black wheels with 
Goodyear white-letter tires... they're pretty cool!  Ooh, neat, I just looked 
at 
it under the magnifier, has web/net things on the windoze, 2 big pipes coming 
out under the doors, Gabriel, Delco, Hurst, Valvoline, STP, Borg-Warner, Union 
76, Stant, Moog, Goodyear, Champion, CRC, and a couple other decals on it.  
Cool!  This thing is really neat looking, enuf to make me want a '77 Cutlass 
or 
442!  It has the slope nose with 2 pairs of grilles.

The 2 I found in the Wal-Mess here are the only 2 of this car I've ever 
seen... 
I think I've seen some of the others in the series, but I haven't paid much 
attention to them.  Just noticed, all these guys and no Richard Petty... I 
guess 
they couldn't afford the royalties for him!  :)  Dumb, because he drove one of 
these cars... danged if I remember Yarborough driving one, but I know just 
about 
zilch about NASCAR anyway.  There are 12 in the series, but the listing on the 
back of the card of this one only gives the years, drivers, and sponsors, 
doesn't say what the car is.  I can send you all that junk if you want.

Happy hunting!  If I see any more, I'll grab 'em, but I laid these away back 
in 
October sometime, and have sorta had one eye open since, to no avail...

I'm not on the list, so pls email me privately if any questions/comments.

Doug Kitchener

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 21:13:37 EST
From: W451973@aol.com
Subject: Re: model info

hate to say this, dont you think 12.00 bucks is a little high for a model you
can get at the store in the 10.00 bucks range? plus shipping? to say there
hard to come by, havent you noticed how many people on the list have seen them
at stores already? sorry to start any flaming, but people who like to take
advantage of others like this, really ticks me off.   MY .02
dennis
w451973               

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 20:29:56 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Joining

thanks to all, I can pull it up, but very small and will not accept ANY
input on form, arrow only, if you follow. Mama wants to eat, will try
tomorrow. See ya1
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 20:27:30 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: brakes H*LP on 70 Cutlass

Let me guess, 4 wheel power drum brakes?  They are always touchy but
like somebody else said you need to check the adjustment of the shoes.
The fronts do most of the work so I would look there first.  With the wheel
off of the ground you should hear a slight dragging sound when you spin
the wheel.  If it spins real free you need to pull the drum and adjust them
out and might as well inspect everything while your at it.  Peel the dust
boot
back on the wheel cyl's and make sure their dry especially.  If the car sat
for a while and you just started driving it the adjusters are probably
frozen
in place.  You can usually pull them out, soak them in penetrating fluid,
and
get them apart.  Clean the threads with a wire brush and use some anti
sieze when you put them together.  The fronts are very sensitive to how
thier adjusted, have to be equal or you'll jump lanes when you stomp on
the brakes.  Get em close and and keep backing up and stopping in a parking
lot and they'll adjust out even and won't pull.  The other possibility is
that
you could be pushing down the pedal but not moving the piston in the master
cyl.  Unbolt the two nuts that hold the master cyl to the booster and make
sure
the piston in the master cyl is all the way back.  Have someone else start
the
car and push in the brake pedal.  If the booster plunger doesn't start
moving
as soon as they start pushing in the pedal it sounds like a linkage problem.
Good luck

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>Does someone have an explanation as to why I have to put the brake pedal
>on The Unit almost to the floor before I get any braking power? Then it
>breaks like a normal car, just really touchy. The brake resevoir is
>full. Does this mean that it could seriously use some new pads? I know
>nothing about brakes so please excuse my ignorance.
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 21:33:40 -0500
From: "jackkopf" <jackkopf@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Your 1970 98 was: Re:

thanks for the referral
jk
- -----Original Message-----
From: KarlAune@aol.com <KarlAune@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: December 8, 1998 12:13 PM
Subject: Your 1970 98 was: Re:


>In a message dated 98-12-06 13:31:02 EST, you write:
>
><< My name is Jack and I just joined the list. I recently acquired a 1970
98
> conv and am searching for >>
>
>Contact D. Brown at:
>
>dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
>
>He is parting a 1970 Delta 88 and will likely have some of your wants, plus
>some good sheetmetal (I think).
>
>I have not contated him lately, but mention that Karl sent you...
>
>K

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 21:47:23 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: model info

To All

        We here at C&M are not out to rape the Oldsmobile world. Lots of people
have expressed that they can not find them. I'm paying $11.88 for them. WOW I'm
making a whole .12 cents. These have not been release to most (I say MOST)
retail stores yet. You will only find them in specialized hobby stores right
now. The regular asking price at Hobbytown USA is $14.99. I get a couple bucks
off them. Yes as the retail stores get them you should see them in Wal-Mart for
around $9-10. With them only being released in the past week or two they are
not readily available. So if you want to wait, wait then. If your going to
complain about $2.00 that's your right. We're offering them to people who can't
get them. If your not one of those than great.  MY .02

Jim Chermack


At 09:13 PM 12/8/98 , you wrote:
>hate to say this, dont you think 12.00 bucks is a little high for a model you
>can get at the store in the 10.00 bucks range? plus shipping? to say there
>hard to come by, havent you noticed how many people on the list have seen them
>at stores already? sorry to start any flaming, but people who like to take
>advantage of others like this, really ticks me off.   MY .02
>dennis
>w451973               

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 21:49:54 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: model info

Good for you, Jim.  It pleases me that you spoke up.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, December 08, 1998 9:46 PM
Subject: Re: model info


>To All
>
>        We here at C&M are not out to rape the Oldsmobile world. Lots of
people
>have expressed that they can not find them. I'm paying $11.88 for them. WOW
I'm
>making a whole .12 cents. These have not been release to most (I say MOST)
>retail stores yet. You will only find them in specialized hobby stores
right
>now. The regular asking price at Hobbytown USA is $14.99. I get a couple
bucks
>off them. Yes as the retail stores get them you should see them in Wal-Mart
for
>around $9-10. With them only being released in the past week or two they
are
>not readily available. So if you want to wait, wait then. If your going to
>complain about $2.00 that's your right. We're offering them to people who
can't
>get them. If your not one of those than great.  MY .02
>
>Jim Chermack
>
>
>At 09:13 PM 12/8/98 , you wrote:
>>hate to say this, dont you think 12.00 bucks is a little high for a model
you
>>can get at the store in the 10.00 bucks range? plus shipping? to say there
>>hard to come by, havent you noticed how many people on the list have seen
them
>>at stores already? sorry to start any flaming, but people who like to take
>>advantage of others like this, really ticks me off.   MY .02
>>dennis
>>w451973
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 21:53:44 -0500
From: "jackkopf" <jackkopf@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: brakes H*LP on 70 Cutlass

Chk the adjustment of the rear drum brakes and fronts if not disc. Also
inspect
the pads and the brake hose's (especially on a 29yr old car).
jk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
To: Oldsmobile List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: December 8, 1998 7:07 PM
Subject: brakes H*LP on 70 Cutlass


>Does someone have an explanation as to why I have to put the brake pedal
>on The Unit almost to the floor before I get any braking power? Then it
>breaks like a normal car, just really touchy. The brake resevoir is
>full. Does this mean that it could seriously use some new pads? I know
>nothing about brakes so please excuse my ignorance.
>
>BTW- The Crapiece will be leaving shortly. I'm selling it to a friend
>without a car for $100. In return, the folks are getting me a 92 Regal.
>Black, 2dr., red leather, 80K mi. $5000., good college car!!!
>--
>***********
>Matt Cremean
>mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
>***************************
>1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 V-8 4 bbl)
>1975 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (250 I-6 1 bbl)
>1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (350 V-8 2 bbl)
>1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4 bbl)
>*******************************************
>http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
>*******************************************

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1651
*********************************

