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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1647


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, December 7 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1647



Re: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold
Re: 68 H/O questions
67 w30
Re: Gas odor/hard start
Re: 67 w30
Re: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold
Re: Bumper Reconditioning
Re: Non-Olds or SE, sorry
Re: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold
Re: 67 w30
Re: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold
Re: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold
Re: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold
Re: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold
Re: Bumper Reconditioning
Hurst Olds for sale
Re: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold
Re: Big 80s Vinyl Tops
Re:OL4B Intake
Re: 68 H/O questions
Re: Big 80s Vinyl Tops
MILNER? WAS Two Lane Blacktop
Olds Questions
Re: Olds Questions
Re: Big 80s Vinyl Tops
Re: Web page update
Re: 67 w30
Re: Value of '85 Olds (timing chain?)
RE: 307 Timing Chain
RE: HEI Conversion Completed
Re: Smog legal 350
RE: 77 - 442 part out.
Re: olds350 vs the 350 rocket
Re: how do you get stickers off?
RE: Possible Hot-Air Choke Sealant
Re: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold
Re: Rear End Transfer
Re: 69 Hurst Olds Carbs.
RE: 1986 olds 98 engine noise+smoke
RE: lower control arm removal
Re: Electronic odometer reads "error"
Re: Olds engines and GN turbo systems
Re: Olds engines and GN turbo systems
Re: Olds engines and GN turbo systems
Webpage
12 Bolt Impala rear
To those who submitted a parts wish list.
Vacuum line help!
Re: Olds engines and GN turbo systems
Re: 12 Bolt Impala rear
Re: 68 H/O questions
Plastic/metal plating
Re: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold
Front Control Arms
Re: Rear End Transfer
RE: Heat Activated Choke Tube
Re: Heat Activated Choke Tube
Re: Air Bags (what are they)
Re: Air Bags (what are they)
Looking for Blaine Sanders...
Re: 68 H/O questions
muscle cars from Montreal Canada
RE: MILNER? WAS Two Lane Blacktop
RE: Lightning Rod Shifter
Re: Front Control Arms
Re: Bumpers {Marking for ID}
Looking for 68 steering wheel!
Scary front end ...
Big Block Valve Spring Question
Re: Scary front end ...
Re: Scary front end ...
Lost in South Dakota
Re: Wondering if i got a good price

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 21:59:19 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold

>Thats nice, but why a Performer? Why Not a Performer RPM?

Edelbrock doesn't make a Performer RPM for a BB.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 22:16:18 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: 68 H/O questions

Hey  

I have a 68 Hurst/Olds



The paint code HAS to be Z-Z,   also the date code on cowl plate should be
between mid April and mid June.

The 455 should be a "F" block    with "D" heads   Red inner fender wells with
a real walnut dash inlay.   A real wood sport wheel and tic tac toc.  It MUST
have disk brakes in the front    O-G trans T 400.   The W-45 non air cars had
a 3:90 rear  code T-3


The W-46  a/c cars had a 3:08   code S-5

The Ram air scoops under the bumper should be the larger 13' scoop as opposed
to the 69 under bumper 9" scoop    and it should have a chrome molding around
mouth of scoop.


I hope this helps,

Vinny

62 Starfire
68 Hurst/Olds

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 19:32:46 -0400
From: stanley smith <drolds@net1plus.com>
Subject: 67 w30

I have a1967 442 w30 / I think?  It has red plastic inner fenders and an
(original)chrome dual snorkel aircleaner with hoses .The air  ducts
between the headlights have been welded in.Also there is a grommet  and
some drill holes in the trunk on the pass. side shelf.I would like to
know if there are any other (w30?)things i should look for, especially
any I.D. numbers  anywhere ,that would prove that my car is actually a
real w30 .Iwas told that it was a factory drag car ,that came from SCOTT
SMITH  OLDS  inOrlando Fla. they are now out of business and i can find
no info on them.If any olds enthusiasts out there could help me out i
would greatly appreciate it!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 22:43:25 EST
From: CarJackTX@aol.com
Subject: Re: Gas odor/hard start

It could be the secondary plugs on the bottom of the bowl. Jack

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 22:45:30 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: 67 w30

Sounds real enough   Battery was trunk mounted

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 22:46:29 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold

The Performer RPM is for both small and bigblocks, read it carfuly 
It says
"Olds 330-403 (non-EGR) Port flange has enough material for use with 455"

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 22:01:00 -0600
From: bloom9@juno.com (C K)
Subject: Re: Bumper Reconditioning

Peter wrote:
>  Is DDog the way to go here?  Peter.

Personally I've never used DDog, however there are others on the list who
have. 

Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass



___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 22:00:22 -0600
From: bloom9@juno.com (C K)
Subject: Re: Non-Olds or SE, sorry

Ray, I'm using Juno.com (add  www. and you have their URL ) because I'm
in between ISP's until after Christmas. It's not bad, but I really miss
using Eudora as my e-mail software. With Juno all you need is a modem and
a phone line and you're set after loading their software.
Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass

On Sun, 6 Dec 1998 20:20:22 -0500 "Ray Costanzo"
<costanzo@netcarrier.com> writes:
>What other free email providers are there other than Yahoo and 
>Hotmail?  And
>what aare their url's.  Thanks.
>
>
>
>Ray Costanzo
>87 409 Cutlass
>Bucks County, PA
>costanzo@netcarrier.com
>http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo
>
>
>

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 22:01:17 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold

>The Performer RPM is for both small and bigblocks, read it carfuly 
>It says
>"Olds 330-403 (non-EGR) Port flange has enough material for use with 455"
>

The last word of that sentance is "heads".  

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 23:12:23 -0500
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: 67 w30

Yes, my mechanic has a 67 W-30 and he's always quick to point out that
it was a factory built race car....The drill holes on the pass side
shelf are for the battery.  The air intake hoses made it impossible to
fit in the engine compartment.  If yours is anything like his, you've
got one bitchin car there sir!

Art
67 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 23:11:32 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold

> >The Performer RPM is for both small and bigblocks, read it carfuly
> >It says
> >"Olds 330-403 (non-EGR) Port flange has enough material for use with 455"
> >
> 
> The last word of that sentance is "heads".

Yeah, but there is no such thing as a Performer RPM for the big block. 
The small block version isn't as wide...won't fit.  

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 23:14:30 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold

Damn summit racing catalog is ripped, i thought it was finished, I'm sorry for
missinformingn you all, I'm dumb

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 23:18:01 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold

Ok Ok, rub it in, I KNOW JACK ABOUT EDELBROCK

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 23:19:49 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold

>  I'm dumb

not dumb.  You read what you thought it meant was all.  Can't help it if
the thing was ripped.  mbloomer finished it off for you though.  Now you
know.  Would be nice to have a Performer RPM for the big guys though.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 23:24:36 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Bumper Reconditioning

C K wrote:
> 
> Peter wrote:
> >  Is DDog the way to go here?  Peter.
> 
> Personally I've never used DDog, however there are others on the list who
> have.


Anyone use Mike Aldana(sp?) to rechrome bumpers etc?  I think he's on
the list from out in the southern California area.  Comments can be sent
privately if you wish, but I will be needing some "chroming" next year I
hope.....  Actually I would like to get somebody reasonably local if
that were possible in case of problems.  Arizonz and California are long
drives from Ky.  

Don Sowers

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 23:58:44 EST
From: HippieJohn@aol.com
Subject: Hurst Olds for sale

	I was just looking through this weeks Auto Trader (Monmouth County, New
Jersey) and found a 1984 Hurst Olds in it. Here's the specs - Original owner,
PS, PB, PW, T-Tops, AM/FM Cassette, 307HO V-8, 65K Good Condition. They're
asking $7500 for it. You can talk to the owner at 732-544-0028
	Also appearing were a few G Bodies of no great lineage (non SS, GN, 
Hurst) as
usual, and a few older mustangs.

John 
Web page(s) : (no Monte stuff yet, but I've got a small section dedicated to G
bodies on it.) 
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/HippieJohn/index.html">
http://members.aol.com/>HippieJohn/index.html</A>
79 Monte Carlo
Was 267/350
Now 305/350

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 23:28:49 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold

>>  I'm dumb
>
>not dumb.  You read what you thought it meant was all.  Can't help it if
>the thing was ripped.  mbloomer finished it off for you though.  Now you
>know.  Would be nice to have a Performer RPM for the big guys though.
>
>Mike Rothe
>
Yeah, but you do get the Torker which we "little" guys don't get.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 23:56:50 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: Big 80s Vinyl Tops

At 04:44 PM 12/6/98 , you wrote:
>VALVE COVER:  Whohooooooo.  How did you do it? (I DONT want to start another
>debate, just wondering what the problem was)

Got another valve cover from the world's most overpriced junkyard, used
Fel-Pro cork, DIDN'T smear RTV all over the mating side, and torqued it
down with only a nutdriver.  Hindsight (which is 20/20) suggests what the
list said...I was just cranking that mother down too tight and the gasket
slipped off the head, warping the cover in the process.

Hindsight also suggests (again, as did the list) that this operation is a
super no-brainer, and the fact that I screwed it up two times in a row
makes me look bad.  BUT, it was the first time I'd done one, and the whole
point of buying this type of car was to gain work experience.  I can say
with 99% certainty that I will never have this problem again.
>
>As for the vinyl top, my Delta also has it.  It is in vary good shape, so I
>decided to keep it.  It will be painted body color (only should be duller).
>I hope it looks good, I kind of like it now.  Can't wait until it is done so
>that I can post some pics.  You should be able to remove it no poblem,
>however all the glue and crap might be a bitch to remove.  Like Lou said,
>real pain.

So...from the responses, can I infer that: a) It is possible, although a
major pain in the ass, to remove the vinyl landau top from a mid 80s Delta,
and b) if I was looking for a good 2-door '84 body to do this dreamed-of
restore/custom/hot-rod project on (which would ultimately involve a color
chage, therefore bodywork), that the presence of a Landau top would not be
a deal killer?

Put another way, once the car was complete I would want only sheet metal on
the roof and would accept nothing else, so if (let's say) I found a
super-good candidate for the job (no accidents, no rust) that had a Landau
top, I could get it off and be satisfied with the end result?
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 01:01:28 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re:OL4B Intake

Thomas (sorry it took me so long to respond to this) and List,
>
> I read about the lack of a hot air choke provision on your OL4B.
>
> Anyone with these intakes have similar sightings?


        Thanks for the response, Ken.  In spite of the minor nuisance
with the choke situation, I think the OL4B is kinda cool, though I don't

have anything but a 2 bbl setup with which to compare it.  Also, mine is

a dual pattern intake, like a lot of Edelbrocks.  It accepts either a
squarebore or a spreadbore.  That's good because I have a form of
Touret (sp?) Syndrome.  Instead of uncontrollably blurting out
profanity, I uncontrollably swap carburetors : )  Today a Q-Jet,
tomorrow a Holley.  If I ever get a Carter AFB, things will get even
more weird.  BTW, I sure would like to know how old my intake is, or at
least the year of car for which it was made.  For those just tuning in,
this is an Edelbrock OL4B and (mine) is set up for a divorced choke and,

like I said, is a dual pattern design.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 22:00:57 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: 68 H/O questions

_______________________________________________________________



>  (snip)  O-G trans T 400. (snip)   
> 
> Vinny
 

Vinny,
Correct on all counts, except the transmission code.
The 68 Hurst/Olds used the same OW code TH400 as the
68 W-30 automatics did.  The OG was the standard
4-4-2 TH400.


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249

Web site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com
- -----------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 00:17:19 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Big 80s Vinyl Tops

Don't beat yourself up too bad.  When I first started working on cars the
only
problem I ever had was leaks.  If I worked on it and it held fluid you could
bet
it would spring a leak within a week.  About starved due to comebacks.  I
even had a shop full of mechanics looking over my shoulder and giving me
advice.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>At 04:44 PM 12/6/98 , you wrote:
>>VALVE COVER:  Whohooooooo.  How did you do it? (I DONT want to start
another
>>debate, just wondering what the problem was)
>
>Got another valve cover from the world's most overpriced junkyard, used
>Fel-Pro cork, DIDN'T smear RTV all over the mating side, and torqued it
>down with only a nutdriver.  Hindsight (which is 20/20) suggests what the
>list said...I was just cranking that mother down too tight and the gasket
>slipped off the head, warping the cover in the process.
>
>Hindsight also suggests (again, as did the list) that this operation is a
>super no-brainer, and the fact that I screwed it up two times in a row
>makes me look bad.  BUT, it was the first time I'd done one, and the whole
>point of buying this type of car was to gain work experience.  I can say
>with 99% certainty that I will never have this problem again.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 00:42:31 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: MILNER? WAS Two Lane Blacktop

I went back in the thread to find this message from Joe...this license
plate was on Milner's car (the yellow deuce coupe?)

At 01:24 PM 12/4/98 , you wrote:
>While we're digressing onto this thread, a non-Olds trivia quickie:  The 55
>Chevy used in Two Lane Blacktop is the same one Harrison Ford drove in
>American Graffiti.  OK, one more:  What's the significance of the license
>plate on Milner's car in American Graffiti?
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30
> 
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 00:34:06 -0500
From: "R. Fagg" <kgrant442@home.com>
Subject: Olds Questions

I'am planning on rebuilding a 350 rocket for my 80 Cutlass to replace the
307 that I put in 3 years ago.
The question that I have is as follows.
I have two Olds 350's one is 69 350 w/ #5 heads but the pistons have a notch
that would indicate that they are low comp slugs.
The other engine is 70 350 w/#6 heads the notch on the pistons is a v shape,
that would mean high comp.
Are the pistons the only diff? Wich engine should I rebuild to go in my car,
or does it matter as they both good starting points.

Also does any body know if there was a 700-r4 made for Olds?
I was told by a Trans shop in Toronto that the diesel engines came with one.
Right now if the shop can get one I'am thinking of putting in a 700-r4 as it
is the stronger unit.

Does any body have 15" SSIII chrome rims for sale? If so how much


Thanks
Kevin Grant
80 Cutlass
Brampton Ont.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 01:00:59 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Olds Questions

The pistons and the heads would be the only difference with the exception
of the crank.  One or both may have a nodular one in it.  My 72 2v low
compression motor had one in it so they could turn up anywhere.  If it was
me I would at least partially dissasemble both of them and measure
EVERYTHING (having previously run into a .010" over lifter bore) to see
where you stand on which one would be the better candidate.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>I'am planning on rebuilding a 350 rocket for my 80 Cutlass to replace the
>307 that I put in 3 years ago.
>The question that I have is as follows.
>I have two Olds 350's one is 69 350 w/ #5 heads but the pistons have a
notch
>that would indicate that they are low comp slugs.
>The other engine is 70 350 w/#6 heads the notch on the pistons is a v
shape,
>that would mean high comp.
>Are the pistons the only diff? Wich engine should I rebuild to go in my
car,
>or does it matter as they both good starting points.
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 01:26:40 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Big 80s Vinyl Tops

If you are going to do major work, don't worry about the vinyl top.  Also,
what you should look for is best sheetmetal you can find.  One good way to
tell that this kind of car is good is to look at the bottom of doors inside
(when you open the door).  It there is only little bit of surface rust or
non at all, that is great.  Since I have done almost everything to my Delta,
I can safely say that the hardest/most expensive part is the body work.  The
less you have to do, the better.  Igor.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 04:14:04 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Web page update

Hey Lou,

I was just being a FWG........<G>

From: Mark Hahn [mailto:mahahn@fuse.net]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 06:36:43 -0500
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Re: 67 w30

I had a 67 w 30 , bought it at Quality Motors in manhattan kansas , bought
it in the summer of 69 just got back from nam and wanted a 68 442 but saw
this silver looking car on the used lot and checked it out it had ram air
threw the parking lights battery in the trunk on the passenger side shelf,
4 speed and had please take me with you also had front disk brakes I
remember the garage that put brakes on it never saw an olds of that year
with disk breaks I traded it in on a used 68 442 only because of the 4
speed. I could not keep an engine in it .It seemed to want to pullmore than
the bearings could stand. I guess i was not for a 4 speed.  Man I sure miss
that car     Butch  68  442  post

stanley smith wrote:

> I have a1967 442 w30 / I think?  It has red plastic inner fenders and an
> (original)chrome dual snorkel aircleaner with hoses .The air  ducts
> between the headlights have been welded in.Also there is a grommet  and
> some drill holes in the trunk on the pass. side shelf.I would like to
> know if there are any other (w30?)things i should look for, especially
> any I.D. numbers  anywhere ,that would prove that my car is actually a
> real w30 .Iwas told that it was a factory drag car ,that came from SCOTT
> SMITH  OLDS  inOrlando Fla. they are now out of business and i can find
> no info on them.If any olds enthusiasts out there could help me out i
> would greatly appreciate it!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 07:16:32 -0600 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Value of '85 Olds (timing chain?)

I would, my Cutlass (it was my Father's Oldsmobile then....) went 155K on
the original timing chain and gears.  The gears were in fantastic shape, and
they were the aluminum with nylon teeth.  This car probably never had the
4BBL's used in 185K miles, and never saw over 75 mph, ever (and he had
2.14's too).  (then I got the car.....<G>)  The chain was VERY stretched.
We replaced it with a Cloyes set from NAPA, and never "heard" from it again.


My 1976 Delta 88 Royale, 350 Rocket went 152K miles and then the cam gear
stripped.  I was dead in the water and it was in traffic just as the traffic
light turned green.  Doh!  I would recommend by at least 100K replacing it,
hard driving has more harmonic vibrations and causes more stretch and more
cracks in the factory gear.  My 76 gear was full of cracks.  The 85 was as
solid as the day it was made, either they improved it a lot or just the easy
driving of my dad saved it.  

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 07:18:54 -0600 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: 307 Timing Chain

Will it tag the valves?  No, not a chance in a 307!  Too low lift.

You will just shut down, and it will probably crank funny sounding, easy
check, pull distributor cap, have someone crank engine, if rotor does not
turn, good sign the cam gear stripped on you.  Or you just broke your cam,
but I REALLY doubt it without other signs.

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 07:27:11 -0600 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: HEI Conversion Completed

Yes, you must replace the resistor wire.  The HEI needs 12V.  Not the 9ish
the resistor wire delivers with the points distro gave.  Remember, 12V /
1.35 Ohm, = 8.88 Amps.  I am not sure just what a distributor draws, but I
would give it no less than a 12 Gauge wire.  Me, I would run a 8 gauge just
to be safe, it is cheap for a 5 foot piece.  Never skimp on something that
may need LOTS of power when you want to mash the gas!

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 07:37:18 -0600 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Smog legal 350

If you are running a 84 and older 307, I would just run the 84 heads and
intake.  Makes the best swap, looks absolutely stock, and probably never set
off a CA emissions inspector.  If you put a cam in, keep the overlap down,
like a stock cam.  The "9" cam should work VERY well.  The 85 computer takes
the 350 well, a little too much timing just off idle when at operating temp
and 2.14 gears, but that is around 25-35 mph.  Else it is fine.  Don't stray
much if at all with stock timing, go up is fine, but do not go down, things
just don't run right with low timing and that ECM.  As for opening up a head
for AIR, I think the drill bit needed is a 3/8 or 1/2 NPT.  And then you
have to do it to cast iron, which is not the easiest to drill into.  I would
just swap 307 5A heads on that have the AIR provision and if you really need
more airflow, either port them or have the 350 or 455 valves installed.
Ideal would be a set of 5a or 7a heads with AIR provision.

Open up the secondaries to allow WOT air flow.  Stock carb works well.

I have an 85 with this set up, THM200C, 2.14 gears, 77 350 stock, with 82
307 intake and 83 307 carb.  I get 0-60 in 9.1, 50-70 and 60-80 in 6.2 sec.
Haven't got to a track to 1/4 mi it yet.

Not a race car, but acceptable with 2.14's.

The 98's were the best source of 1980 350's.  Wagons too.  I will look
around me if you are interested.  Always need a good excuse to rummage thru
the junkyard!


>Jim DeLucia wrote:
>> 
>> I want to put a 350 Olds in my 84 H/O.  I know that it is a direct
>> drop in.  My question is.  Are there 350 Heads that are Smog Legal.
>> I mean do that have air pipe fittings.  If so what years will work.
>
>I have heard that California cars had them from around 75 and up.
>Sometimes you'll find that the holes are plugged with pipe fittings, if
>A.I.R. wasn't required on the particular car. 1980 was the last year of
>the 350, and the best bet for AIR holes outside Calif. I'm still looking
>for one myself. People say you can drill and tap almost any 350 head for
>AIR tubes, but no one has offerred details on the specs (depth, thread,
>angle, tooling, etc). I'd like to find that info.
>
>drc


Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 07:46:09 -0600 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: 77 - 442 part out.

It is said there were only 700 403's installed in Cutlass' in 77, and you
can count on that most were not 442's.  Shame the car is in the boneyard.  

I found a SWEET 77 403 car last year, not 442, but might as well been,
black, t-tops, console shifter, gauges, black velour, 60K miles, tilt, PW,
PL, PT, Brogham.  $6000.  I would say it would have been worth it.  It sure
was pretty.  I did not see any missing options except 442.  


Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 08:49:30 EST
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: Re: olds350 vs the 350 rocket

thats what I thought Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 07:55:58 -0600 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: how do you get stickers off?

A hair dryer on low heat, warm the sticker gently, and then use a pair of
tweezers and it will pull right off. 

My wife says to use cold cream on paper based stickers, coat them and let
them sit overnight.  They will peel right off.

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 08:02:10 -0600 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: Possible Hot-Air Choke Sealant

I have not seen the original post, but I got a gasket from Fel Pro at the
local auto parts store that was specifically for a Olds intake.  It was
ordered for an Olds 307, 85.  The intake was a 77, but the choke stuff was
for a 307.  (Longer tube in the crossover)

Don't use anything that may allow a leak, I nearly burned up my engine in
less than 2 miles by trying to make me a gasket.  Get the right material.
It is worth it.  The heat there is 1500+ degrees F.

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 09:26:11 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold

Doe's anyone besides Edelbrock make aluminum intakes for the big and small
Olds? I'd check myself, but I'm sitting at work and don't have a Summit mag
handy. By the way, if other manufactures do make one, which is better and
do they have a significant advantage over the stock cast iron intakes?


Ed
The Omega Man

2-74's







At 09:47 PM 12/6/98 EST, you wrote:
>Thats nice, but why a Performer? Why Not a Performer RPM?
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 09:21:20 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Rear End Transfer

>I was wondering, what kind of vehicle would I be able to get a rear end
>to work on my car.  It is a 66 F-85.  I was just wondering so that could
>find one in a junkyard.  Any help would be great thanks.
>

good luck. :)
I've been trying to find out for about a month.
__________

Sorry, guys, I though this had been answered previously.  Any 64-66 GM
A-body car (Cutlass, Chevelle, LeMans, Skylark) has a compatible rear axle.
The 67 A-body axles will also fit, but the lower spring perch is different,
requiring th use of the 67 springs.  The 68-72 axles are about an inch
wider than the earlier ones and also have the control arm mounting
locations in a slightly different place; the axle will physically bolt up
to the early car but the pinion angle will be wrong.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 09:23:09 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 69 Hurst Olds Carbs.

Mike,

Been off-line since Friday, just now catching up.  Unfortunately, my H/O's
carb had the number 3310 on it when I got the car (as in, it had a Holley).
Sorry I can't be more help.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 08:29:26 -0600 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: 1986 olds 98 engine noise+smoke

Depends on when the blue smoke appears.  

Under acceleration, rings
Under deceleration (say, decel 70 to 50 mph, then mash the gas), valve
guides/seals
At idle all the time, rings, or bad PCV.
Under cold start only, valve guides.

Noise?  Hard to say, but it if is an oil burner, and has the potential to be
an engine run out of oil, it could be bearings, valvetrain, pistons, etc.
Sounds like it just needs a good rebuild.  The guys at the Buick Grand
National site can help a lot with the 3.8L V6 you have, as it is a Buick
motor.  http://ni.umd.edu/gnttype/www/  Some of these guys are VERY
knowledgeable on the Buick V6, and you may be able to make it scream.  Your
engine is fairly closely related to the GN engine, so add a turbo and fly!
Talk to these guys!

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 08:31:16 -0600 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: lower control arm removal

Get a bigger hammer!  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 06:33:28 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Electronic odometer reads "error"

> Question:
> Is there any way to restore the original mileage reading or at
> least reset the odometer to some reasonable value?

I doubt it.  :-)

The mileage is stored in non-volatile memory; disconnecting the
battery makes no difference. I'm wondering here whether you have
a physically-disconnected circuit here, so that the odometer 
display isn't getting any numbers from memory to show you. It
would be saying "Error" for lack of a better idea, IOW. GM has
some problems with edge connectors on the circuit boards of
their digital dashes, and maybe yours has some dirty or loose 
connections somewhere.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 09:37:04 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds engines and GN turbo systems

In a message dated 12/7/98
 8:<BR33:<BR14 AM Central Standard Tim, Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com
writes:> Your
>  engine is fairly closely related to the GN engine, so add a turbo and fly!


Just curious, but is there any info about using these turbos on Olds V8s? Some
of the aftermarket bolt-ons flow around 1200 SCFM. Don't know the flow on the
factory unit, but with proper wastegate mods they should be able to give a big
V8 a decent boost for trailer towing :-)

Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 09:47:28 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Olds engines and GN turbo systems

In a message dated 12/7/98
 8:<BR33:<BR14 AM Central Standard Tim, Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com
writes:> Your
>  engine is fairly closely related to the GN engine, so add a turbo and
fly!
________

Ah, I don't know where this came from, but the Olds V8 and the GN turbo
motor are only related by virtue of the fact that both are built by
divisions of GM.  The Grand National uses a BUICK V6 (count the plugs)
which has nothing in common with the Olds V8.  It _does_ have a lot in
common with the BUICK V8, so perhaps this is the source of confusion.  As
for adding the GN turbo parts to any V8 (even a Buick), good luck.  The
package is designed to operate as a system on a 3.8 liter motor.  The
sizing of the turbo, carb, wastegate, etc. were all done with that
displacement and rpm range in mind.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 10:10:29 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds engines and GN turbo systems

In a message dated 12/7/98
 8:<BR53:<BR37 AM Central Standard Tim, Padavano.Joe@orbital.com writes:> Ah,
I don't know where this came from, but the Olds V8 and the GN turbo
>  motor are only related by virtue of the fact that both are built by
>  divisions of GM.  The Grand National uses a BUICK V6 (count the plugs)
>  which has nothing in common with the Olds V8.  It _does_ have a lot in
>  common with the BUICK V8, so perhaps this is the source of confusion.


Joe,

No confusion exists. I am just thinking of the buick turbo as a readily
available (and maybe junkyard cheap) turbo package that might be adapted to
ANY V8 given sufficient flow.

Now, since this list is about Olds, my question was whether there was info on
adapting it to Olds engines...hold on... a reread shows that I am responding
to a post that I haven't seen yet which is a response to mine. sorry Joe, I
was replying "inside-out, as it were.

I'll leave the question standing :-)

Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 10:19:24 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Webpage

Could someone resubmit the one that had links to the guys webpage that had
a burnout section. I got a little wild with the delete button again.
Thanks
Ed
The Omega Man

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 09:27:01 -0600
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: 12 Bolt Impala rear

I may be able to get a '67 Impala(?sp>) for parts that has a 12 bolt
rear with what seems to be a panhard bar running across the rear.  Does
anyone know if the drum to drum length close to a '65 442?

Thanks.


Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 09:33:31 +0000
From: MB0 <MB0@americancentury.com>
Subject: To those who submitted a parts wish list.

Last week I went to look through the very large collection of Olds parts
advertised in the Kansas City Star. Many of you sent me a wish list and
I wanted to let everyone know that the majority of the parts you are
looking for are available. This guy has is all.

His name is Jon and his phone number is 913-248-1140

Good luck!
Mike Baugher

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 09:36:10 +0000
From: MB0 <MB0@americancentury.com>
Subject: Vacuum line help!

I need help locating the correct placement of the vacuum hoses coming
from the front of my intake manifold on a 350 2 barrell. There is a
small pipe just behind the oil fill tube - it has three "arms" coming
off of it and I need to know where the vacuum lines should go.
Currently, The top one goes directly to the middle one, and the bottom
one is plugged. I know this can't be right!

Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 10:41:24 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Olds engines and GN turbo systems

SpeedCom@aol.com wrote:

> No confusion exists. I am just thinking of the buick turbo as a readily
> available (and maybe junkyard cheap) turbo package that might be adapted 
to...........

Doubt the cheap part.  Earlier this year I was thinking about trying to
stick a Grand National motor complete into an 83 RX7 who's engine was
frozen.  The price I was given was it would probably cost $3000 or more
to buy the motor and necessary computer pieces to do it.  And then my
buddy said it would probably fry the rear end the first time I lit it up
in a big way.  In other words, the first time I rev it up, dump the
clutch and launch I would need at least a new rear end.  Strangely
enough, the mechanic that was supposed to install a high mileage but
cheap replacement engine for the car called me this morning an told me
he had gotten it loose and running somewhat after 10-12 years of
sitting.  My other possible option was to take the 350 out of my 72 S
"former parts" car and stick it into the 7.  Could have been an
interesting combination.  Right now it looks like the 72 parts car isn't
going to be a parts car.  Too solid and runs too good to part out.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 10:48:45 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: 12 Bolt Impala rear

Nope. It's wider.
'65 442 would be same as '64-'67 Chevelle.

Ed
The Omega Man






At 09:27 AM 12/7/98 -0600, you wrote:
>I may be able to get a '67 Impala(?sp>) for parts that has a 12 bolt
>rear with what seems to be a panhard bar running across the rear.  Does
>anyone know if the drum to drum length close to a '65 442?
>
>Thanks.
>
>
>Paul Brillhart
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 10:56:34 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: 68 H/O questions

Thats right on the trans,     I goofed      I had been awake for almost 3 days
: )


Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 11:12:44 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Plastic/metal plating

There has been question lately about the rubbing off of dash and side panel
interior chrome. I located this site. Still assessing but seems to be viable
source of products. Waiting for response as to weather they do any "in
house" plating.

The contact is Ron:
mailto:ron@dalmarplating.com

Web site:
http://www.dalmarplating.com/

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

ICQ# 5209322 = "CC-IROC-SS"
Personal ICQ Communication Center:
http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
Project Questions To:
mailto:cc-iroc-ss@CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 11:18:09 -0500
From: Bob Dale <bctad5@toolcity.net>
Subject: Re: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold

DonziKel@aol.com wrote:

> The Performer RPM is for both small and bigblocks, read it carfuly
> It says
> "Olds 330-403 (non-EGR) Port flange has enough material for use with
> 455"

  Careful. Edelbrock told me that they`re RPM would not work on my 455
but that they may have one available this spring to go with the new
heads they are making. Might be worth a call.

Bob-69 Cutlass 455/400

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 12:47:30 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Front Control Arms

Sometime over the next while I will be upgrading my '68 Curtlass to front
disks. While the front end is apart it will make sense to clean up and
paint the area, replace the bushings, etc. From reading the posts here it
seems that it can be quite a task to get the upper and lower control arms
off. Then there would be considerable work involved in refreshing
everything before they could be installed. 

I was thinking that perhaps it would be easier to just get a full set of
upper and lower front control arms from a parts car and do the work at my
leisure, then I could just bolt them on when the other work is underway.
Any thoughts on this approach? Anybody got a set taking up space they want
to get rid of? How heavy are these things anyway?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 08:49:11 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Rear End Transfer

>  The 68-72 axles are about an inch
>wider than the earlier ones and also have the control arm mounting
>locations in a slightly different place; the axle will physically bolt up
>to the early car but the pinion angle will be wrong.

will 68-72 upper control arms  fit a 66? would they solve that 
pinion angle problem?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 10:58:24 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: RE: Heat Activated Choke Tube

You could just scrounge a gasket at your local parts yard along with
other goodies, treasures, and got to have em's, you are sure to find. :)

Right now I'm using a pretty low tech and shade tree mechanic fix on my
Delta. I took some aluminum foil, folded it over once or twice, then
using a utility knife with new blade (it has to be sharp - a scissors
would probably be better), cut out a gasket to fit. Once cut, I put some
anti-seize between the layers. Seals fine and has been working for over
a year.

- -- 
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 11:29:26 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: Heat Activated Choke Tube

> Does anyone know if these things are being
> reproduced anywhere, or do most people just abandon them and go to an
> electric choke or some such thing? Just wondering.

Year One sells the exterior tubes...the one leading to the hot-air choke
housing and the other one going to the carburetor air horn.  As for the
plate and long, bent, U-shaped interior tube, I don't know.

- --
I believe GM still stocks and sells these. They did about a year ago.
You might have to make the trip down to the dealer to make sure the
correct item is chosen from the parts book if you have to order.

- -- 
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 11:38:27 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: Air Bags (what are they)

I'd like to add, I've heard about the setup for posi rear ends, but
would the setup for an open rear end be different? Since posi directs
power to the wheel with the most grip, and open directs power to the
wheel with the least grip, the setup, using a valve per side, hence the
ability to have load with different pressures per side, would be
different.

I've heard stuff like load the right wheel a bit more, since the right
will have more traction, to cause the left and right wheels to equalize
the amount of traction they have. Thoughts, etc?

- -- 
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 10:45:40 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Air Bags (what are they)

On that note, I would like to say that my right tire on my  posi has more
grip.  That is to say that every time I nail the go pedal, tires go up in
the air but my car always starts to fish-tail with the right side going out
(i.e.. more traction on the right).  Why would that be?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 11:49:00 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Looking for Blaine Sanders...

Hi Listers, 

Sorry for bothering you with this:

I am pretty desperate in finding any contact point (phone?) to Blaine 
Sanders who left the list like 2 weeks ago. I sent him my valve covers 
and he still owes me the parts price  plus shipping. I am really 
dissapointed that I don't see any check coming in (since two weeks) and I 
really hope that this will clear up! Not that it is a big amount of money 
but so far this s*cks really bad, expected more reliability ... and don't 
wanna do the: Send me money first deals in the future...

So long, thanks for any help.
George
- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 09:57:31 PST
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 68 H/O questions

Chris,

Some of the replies from the list were correct, some not.

ALL '68 H/Os have a 442 vin number. The number on the body tag should be 
for a Cutlass. As Vinny said, all of the body tags should have a Z-Z 
paint code. ONLY H/Os have this paint code. The interior trim code is 
940 on ALL H/Os. ALL '68 H/Os were built in Lansing. The car should have 
an April to June build date. No H/Os had vinyl roofs.

If the car is non-air:

455
D-Heads
Regular cast iron intake
X,Y exhaust manifolds
7028255 (W-31) carb

OW-trans

T3 rear (3.91)

If the car is air:

455
C-Heads
Regular cast iron intake
X,Y exhaust manifolds
7028251 carb

OW-trans

S5 rear (3.08)

Take all of the drivetrain and option info with a grain of salt. 
Considering how these cars were abused from new I wouldn't concern 
myself heavily with using the cars current drivetrain as a gauge of 
authenticity. My car for instance, rolled out of the dealership new with 
a TY-4.33 rear that had been installed there. 


Also keep in mind the items that H/Os SHOULD have may no longer be on 
the car. The power discs were swapped to drums on some drag cars. The 
wood is just glued to the dash and will pull right off. The scoops and 
air cleaner are desirable and could have easily been walked off with. 
The four core radiator core support may have rotted (or been bent) and 
replaced with the more common three core. Red fenderwells could have 
been replaced with black ones after a wreck. The emblems were just stuck 
to the fenders and trunk. And so on..

Also,...

Common myths about '68 H/Os surround the options. H/Os did NOT come with 
the sport wheel, gauges, tic-toc-tac, or power steering as standard 
equipment. I have personally seen documented cars with the standard 
wheel and instrumentation. Most non-air cars seem to have been equipped 
with manual steering.

Basically, I wouldn't completely write off any car that was missing 
pieces immediately. I WOULD be sceptical about any that was missing 
everything. Again, it all comes back to the vin and body tag. The paint 
code is a dead giveaway for a Hurst/Olds. I probably wouldn't buy a car 
that was missing the body tag.

Good luck. I hope this helps.

Brent Pinkstaff
'68 H/O sport coupe
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass Poo)

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 01:08:47 -0500
From: "JOE LA NOVARA" <jnovara@total.net>
Subject: muscle cars from Montreal Canada

Hi, looking for restored Muscle Cars then check out my web page.
http://www.total.net/~jnovara
Your Northern Muscle Car Connection

Need any further info or pictures email me at jnovara@total.net
Thank you for all your time, bye
http://www.total.net/~jnovara
Your Northern Muscle Car Connection

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 11:09:39 -0700 
From: Arnold Alvin TSgt <alvin.arnold@schriever.af.mil>
Subject: RE: MILNER? WAS Two Lane Blacktop

  I once had the phone number for the owner of the '55 and the coupe... his
name was Troy Fitch.  I might have it somewhere... if there is interest I'll
look for it so you can call the source directly.

  The '55 was sold back in '88/'89 time period.  The going price was
$13K!!!!  Sold to someone in New York state and was advertised in Hot Rod
magazine.  Supposedly a frame off restoration was going to be accomplished
by the new owner and it was to tour as a show car.

Louie Arnold

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Brian Ammons [SMTP:b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu]
> Sent:	Sunday, December 06, 1998 11:43 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	MILNER? WAS Two Lane Blacktop
> 
> I went back in the thread to find this message from Joe...this license
> plate was on Milner's car (the yellow deuce coupe?)
> 
> At 01:24 PM 12/4/98 , you wrote:
> >While we're digressing onto this thread, a non-Olds trivia quickie:  The
> 55
> >Chevy used in Two Lane Blacktop is the same one Harrison Ford drove in
> >American Graffiti.  OK, one more:  What's the significance of the license
> >plate on Milner's car in American Graffiti?
> >
> >Joe Padavano
> >padavano.joe@orbital.com
> >
> >66 442
> >68 W-30
> >69 H/O
> >69 442
> >70 W-30
> > 
> -------------------------------------------------------------
>  Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
>  MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
>  2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
>  Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
>  1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
> 	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
>  	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
> -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 10:49:56 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Lightning Rod Shifter

Norval;

Put me on the pic list. 

Thanks

Jason



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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 10:50:47 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Front Control Arms

>
>I was thinking that perhaps it would be easier to just get a full set of
>upper and lower front control arms from a parts car and do the work at my
>leisure, then I could just bolt them on when the other work is underway.
>Any thoughts on this approach? Anybody got a set taking up space they want
>to get rid of? How heavy are these things anyway?

this is the best way to do it. If you don't have a air hammer it is best to
take the arms to a shop and have the bushings and lower ball joints pressed
in. Most plases want $4-$7 per bushing to do this.
The arms themselves are not that heavy, I've carried all four in a
cardboard box. 
10lb each maybe, they are stamped steel not cast.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 10:57:39 PST
From: "Eric Aksomitis" <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Bumpers {Marking for ID}

With all this to-do about bumpers, when I get mine sent in In January 
(If it KILLS ME), what's the best way to mark it for easy ID after it's 
been replated.  I Thought of mig-welding in My car's name + 3 points for 
a triangle in the back of the bumper.  By frying them in real hot, even 
after getting acid stripped and re-chromed, the bumper could, should the 
need arise, be x-rayed for ID.  Hardly likely to happen, I know of a 
reputable shop.
BUT, it ain't easy to replace a good core for 25+ year old cars if you 
do get screwed, and both cars of mine that need replating are solid, 
straight bumpers that don't appear to have ever been bent.

Any ideas on easy ways to put a good non-reversable mark in a bumper?

Eric
http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/biggreen.shtml <-- WILL get a shiny bumper, 
if it kills me

>To all, 
>Some confusion over the bumpers Peter and I were talking about, DESERT 
DOG,
>DID NOT DO THE BUMPERS IN QUESTION, DON'T WANT TO SEE HIM GET A BAD 
RAP,
>bumpers were done by a guy in St. Lou, it's him we're going to kill, 
AND
>after the trial I am going to send my bumper to Desert Dog, heard good
>things about him. Sorry for the mix-up.
>Lou Biggs
>lbiggs@intertek.net


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 13:09:47 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Looking for 68 steering wheel!

Hi Listers, 

I am looking for a 68 steering wheel for my cutlass. What was originally 
in there (don't have built sheet). Does anybody sell a 68 wheel that 
would fit. Need some info on wheel options available in 68:

- - what color did wheels come in
- - what models (sport etc.)

Thanks a lot!
George
- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 13:16:36 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Scary front end ...

Hi Guys, 

Thanks at this point for the "how do I get stickers off answers". Killed 
them all on the weekend with the hair dryer!

I put my baby on wheels to make engine installation easier. The front end 
now (without engine installed) looks scary. If you look at the front 
wheels from the front of the car they look like that:  /   \

I have put in new A arms and I am afraid that they may not fit... I had 
them together with new disc brakes from the former owner and just took it 
as a fact that they will fit. 

Is it possible that things straighten out when I put in the engine? I 
would suspect it to look this way though when it is without the engine: 
\   /

??????????

Well, I am asking because I would get things straight before putting in 
the engine if I only knew for sure that my setup is not right... 
any tips, experiences and suggestions welcome!

Regards, George
- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 13:15:08 -0600
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: Big Block Valve Spring Question

This past Friday I tore down a 425 Toro motor I pulled from a '66 last
Labor Day.  The insides wer beautiful except for the plastic timing gear
having all the plastic bits in the pan.  The rod and man journals mic'd
out perfectly.  The cam lobs all checked out at 0.472" lift and the
lifters were clean and in good shape.  The odometer was showing 25,000
on the car.  However, one of my intake valves did not have a dampener
spring with it.  All the other intake and exhausts did. Also, the spring
was orangeish-red in color(paint).  Does anyone know what the paint code
means?  I'm thinking of getting a spring/dampener set, but need to know
what was stock for the Toro 425.  Are all '66 big blocks (except for the
w-30) the same in terms of springs?  

Thanks.

Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 11:25:19 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Scary front end ...

At 01:16 PM 12/7/98 -0600, you wrote:
>
> I 
>would suspect it to look this way though when it is without the engine: 
>\   /
>
>??????????
>
first, what is your disk set up from?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 13:43:44 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Scary front end ...

> At 01:16 PM 12/7/98 -0600, you wrote:
> >
> > I 
> >would suspect it to look this way though when it is without the engine: 
> >\   /
> >
> >??????????
> >
> first, what is your disk set up from?

I don't know! I got it from the former owner and concluded that he got a 
fitting set. (Well, maybe that was a mistake...)  Seems to be out of a 
later cutlass. I bouht a 75 Cutlass Caliper for them and it did fit. 

George

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 11:47:18 -0800 (PST)
From: JHJ <bluesupreme84@yahoo.com>
Subject: Lost in South Dakota

Took an olds 350 4 bbl out of an 72 Delta 88 and put in a truck.
? is that I'm now using an HEI instead of the Point Distibutor and
would like to know the timing and sparkplug for performance.  Am not
using the original Q-Jet, but a 600 CFM Holley with vacuum secondaries
and electric choke.  Also what is the gap for the plugs.

                                                 thank you,  john
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 11:53:38 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Wondering if i got a good price

> At 03:34 PM 12/5/98 -0500, you wrote:
> >I bought an 87 cutlass cieara a couple of months ago. the body had no
> >dents it needed a paint job but not despratly.The interior was
> >perfect.the car only had 36,000 miles on.My grandmas freind only
drove
> >it to the doctor and the supremarket.It sounded like a good deal at
> >$1500 dollars so i bought it what do you guys think. 
> 
- -------------------------------------------

I'd say good deal. I paid a grand for my 69 Cutlass. It had some body
cancer, no paint, no interior, pretty much just a shell. But, it did
come with everything to put it back together and then some.

Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
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------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1647
*********************************

