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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1640


oldsmobile-digest     Thursday, December 3 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1640



Constant Velocity Joint
Re: Small Block update?
Re: Hei Conversion
Re: W-30 455 rebuild
Re: are you ready
For Sale: 3 H/Os and extra parts $7500
Re: insurance woes
RE: wont start help
Re: parts car, session 2
Re: For Sale: 3 H/Os and extra parts $7500
Re: Smog legal 350
RE: wont start help
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock/update
RE: 3 Speed Trans
Re: Hotchkis control arms
Re: Air Bags (what are they)
RE: Heat Activated Choke Tube
Re: 3 Speed Trans
RE: Air Bags (what are they)
Re: Air Bags (what are they)
Re: Auctioneer
Please remove me from the 
list!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Re: Small Block update?
RE: Air Bags (what are they)
Re: W-30 455 rebuild
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: ?Restoration?
Re: Rings in oil pan how serious?
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
17??(Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock)
Re: ?Restoration?
Re: Cruise Control fixed
Re: Hei Conversion
Re: Hei Conversion
Rocket Talk
RE: Hei Conversion
Paging Jim Chermack
Re: Lightning Rod Shifter
RE: Lightning Rod Shifter
(no subject)
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Remove from List
Dual Gate Shifter for sale
Re: Small Block update?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 06:26:47 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Constant Velocity Joint

Here is another question for the 'all knowing' list members.  What is the
purpose of the Constant Velocity joint right in front of the rear axleon my
'73 Delta.  It appears to be two U-joints with with a spring between them.
Why was this necessary?  There doesn't appear to be a steep angle to
overcome.  TIA.

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 07:11:18 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: Small Block update?

In a message dated 12/2/98
 10:<BR48:<BR37 PM Central Standard Ti, cblundin@flash.net writes:> 2. The
cost of a 350 from a wrecking yard to rebuild is about $350,
>  rebuilding it would be another $600. Balancing to my flywheeel would be
>  another $120( and there is a big question of whether or not my flywheel
>  would fit). Total is $1,050. Added costs in renting/buying engine stand
>  and cherry picker( and I dont have work room for that) or else paying a
>  shop another $600 to do the swap, running the total to $1,650 without a
>  dual exhaust. A quote from a local engine reubilder for a 350 with a
>  holley 4bbl and holley intake manifold was $2600 with a warranty. That
>  was without dual exhaust.
>  
>  3. Cost of the Holley 4175 carb is $339, the manifold is $240+/- Total
>  about $580. Headers about $150, catalytic converter and new tail pipe at
>  the local muffler shop about $200.  Total about $930.  And the job can
>  be done in maybe a day, probably less, by myself. 


Charles,


You are exhibiting a case of "project rationalization" :-) It is no crime...I
do it all the time.

You have inflated the cost of the engine change and deflated the cost of the
upgrade (by not factoring in that the replace is a new engine and the upgrade
is worn out <G>) You also don't need to consider duals at this time, as the
350/403 would make more power with single than anything you could reasonably
do to a 260.

Now, I'm not trying to hurt your feelings here, but putting come cold reason
on this project. You do not *have* to do this work right now. A sober look
says that you are so hot to "do something" that you are willing to spend $1000
to get NO hp increase that you will recognize. I'm serious about that...you
will be dismayed at the result.

Let me offer a suggestion... put a little time into looking for a good
junkyard 403. I'll bet that within two months you find one for $200-$300. Put
that one in just as is. Now you can afford duals if you want, or leave it
single. You will have a "real" performance increase and some money left over.
Now start thinking about carbs, exhaust, posi rear ends and whatever else
makes you feel fine.

When looking for an engine, treat it just like it was in a used car...check
the filler cap for crud indicating that it was run with old oil. Check the oil
pan for water or gas (not as reliable a check as if in a running car). Get a
battery and pull the plugs. Run a compression test with it sitting on the
ground. Then squirt some oil in the cylinders and run it again. Get an
experienced friend to accompany you if you aren't confident to choose. Get an
engine with ALL the accessories if you can, so you son't have to worry about
brackets, etc..AC is maybe an exception, you may want to keep your current
compressor if you have AC, but get the existing comp with the engine for
future upgrade if you can. You'll likely have to negotiate for the
accessories, but I've seen "in-car" engines pulled with every piece still on
and dropped into the buyer's waiting pickup at the same price that a similar
stripped engine wouldn have cost.

Now, two of you  can change that engine in two days, even if you are rank
beginners. Take a video of yourself removing critical parts. Put all
associated parts in a baggie or box and label it with those sticky labels.

The point is, give it a bit of time. Your first find isn't likely to be the
buy of a lifetime (but it *could* be).
Whichever way you go, have fun.

Cheers/Carron
who is going to take the engine/gearbox out of his Saab today and replace the
pinion bearings. Tomorrow...back together. Saturday...contingency day in case
I decide to rebuild the gearbox too!!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 06:22:27 -0600
From: Mark <greenmm@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Hei Conversion

Jim & Sharon Brady wrote:
> 
> This goes out to anyone who has done the points to HEI conversion.  I just
> purchased and HEI from Jim Chermack for my '73 Delta 88.  How did you or did
> you have to do much rewiring?  More importantly I would like to get a copy
> of the wiring diagram for the HEI.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Jim Brady
> 1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
> http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
> bradyiii@shore.intercom.net


Bare with me for my insolence, but what exactly is HEI?
What are you hoping for, as far as results?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 07:24:07 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: W-30 455 rebuild

In a message dated 12/3/98
 1:<BR43:<BR48 AM Central Standard Tim, b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu writes:>
Shouldn't he DEFINATELY go ahead and get the thing bored to, say, .030
>  while he's got the thing apart?  Even if cost WAS a major consideration
>  (i.e., don't want to buy oversize pistons), this old a block will
>  eventually need to be honed, and since you can't do a honing job without
>  ripping EVERYTHING out (like he's doing), and since the blowby will require
>  this anyway...is this not THE (in HUGE LETTERS!) time to do it?

b_,

I certainly think so. I would re-use the old bearings before I'd leave the
cylinders alone (unless this is a 40K miles engine). If blow-byis the problem,
why rebuild without fixing the thing that is causing the blow-by? AND fixing
it right.

My first rebuild...a 55 Dodge with a non-hemi who-knows-what-
displacement....was burning oil, so I took it out. Replaced all the bearings,
did a head job, and judged that I could *just* get by withour new pistons.
Reamed the ridge and had the shop put a good hone job on the cylinders. Engine
run really sweetly, but there was always a slight blue mist behind me. Not so
much as moist would notice it, but I did, so I was unhappy that I hadn't spent
the extra for pistons and bore job. Back then pistons were less than $8 ea +
$3 per hole. But, the money was worth more then so the "real" expense was
probably greater thanit would be today.

Hey, you'll also get better pistons, likely, than you have now. You'll alos
feel better about not having this to do again in 60K.
Cheers/carron

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 07:42:53 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: are you ready

Well, my shoes are shined and I have a recent haircut.  I don't think my
only suit fits anymore, but other than that I think I'm ready.  How ready do
I need to be?  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com <OldsGuyGA@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 11:00 PM
Subject: Re: are you ready


>peter..are you ready for sat night????
>
>jeff...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 08:04:14 EST
From: DUKEOFBLUZ@aol.com
Subject: For Sale: 3 H/Os and extra parts $7500

Must sell: 1975 Hurst/Olds, W-25 350cu. inch, black/gold stripes, swivel
buckets, t-tops, a/c, tilt,, Very good condition,, 84,000 miles,, pictured on
the Hurst/Olds web site in the photos section,, also on the OCC web site in
the " Members Garage" runs great!!

Also: 1975 Hurst/Olds W-30 455 cu.inch, white/gold stripes,,swivel buckets, t-
tops, a/c, tilt, this car has rare red interior,, rear quarters very rusty,
seats are in bad shape, but this car runs great!!!

Also: 1974 Hurst/Olds W-25 350 cu.inch, black/gold stripes,, swivel buckets,,
a/c,,
been sitting 12 years,, engine does not turn over,, restoration started ,,
needs rear quarters,, seats good except for drivers seat.

Also: Many parts from a 1975 Cutlass "S" including, hood, doors, trunk lid,
fenders, nose, dash, back seat, moldings, interior trim, and door panels, lots
of little things.

 I would like to sell everything to one person if that is posable
                                                      $7500
Thankyou, Jeffrey T. Fieldsend
Board of Director, OCC, Oldsmobile Cutlass Coupes 73-77
http://members.aol.com/cutlascoup/index.html
Member : Oldsmobile Club of America
Member : Hurst/Olds Club of America

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 06:12:04 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: insurance woes

  About a month ago I put liability
> >insurance on the car for 58 dollars for 6 months worth, and now
because the
> >car isn't restored and show quality, the underwriters say that the
car
> can't
> >be insured as a "Classic" and therefore will cost me ANOTHER 400
dolars.  I
> >know I have had a lot of tickets in my youth so these prices are
high BUT
> the
> >@ssholes wana indian give on my policy.
- -------------------------------------------
You have other cars right now insured right? They should give you a
multiple vehicle discount! I am 20 and have insurance with Farmers
Insurance. They charge me around 400 bucks for my H*nda for just
liability every 6 months. But, my Olds, I have liability and
comprehension on it during the summer and that only runs me about 170
every 6 months. They give me a multiple car discount. Without comp, I
would be paying about 140 every 6 months. 
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 06:24:38 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: wont start help

Okay, since no one has ruled out this obvious idea, I will throw it
out there. You replaced the points right? Did you set the points after
installation?
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 06:29:41 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: parts car, session 2

Fred,

If you can get the dash out, you can take the column out. It's not
that hard. Just remove the plate on the firewall, remove the bolts at
the steering box, any wiring connected to the column, the bolts
holding it to the dash and you should be set. I replaced mine since I
converted my AT from the tree to the floor. It wasn't as hard as I
suspected. The dash was a lot harder.
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 06:53:13 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: For Sale: 3 H/Os and extra parts $7500

Jeff,

2 questions. Where are you located at and are all the numbers matching
on those vehicles?
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 10:02:42 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Smog legal 350

I want to put a 350 Olds in my 84 H/O.  I know that it is a direct drope
in.  My question is.  Are there 350 Heads that are Smog Legal.  I mean do
that have air pipe fittings.  If so what years will work.  I also know that
everthing from my 307 will bolt on.
________

Actually, what you need are heads from a 1966-1967 330 from California.
These cars had A.I.R. (CA only in those years) and thus had the air pipe
holes machined in the heads.  They will bolt on to your 350 with no
problems and will accept a 2.00" intake like the W-31 heads.  You're a
month or so late, as I had a set that I gave away.  Sorry.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 09:50:07 -0500
From: "Todd M.Williams" <todd@wvadventures.net>
Subject: RE: wont start help

At 06:24 AM 12/3/98 -0800, you wrote:
>Okay, since no one has ruled out this obvious idea, I will throw it
>out there. You replaced the points right? Did you set the points after
>installation?
>==
>Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
>rockman20@yahoo.com
>1986 Honda Accord DX
>1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
>1981 John Deer Snowmobile
>197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
>1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
>_________________________________________________________
>DO YOU YAHOO!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>

yes i did set the points and yes i did it right way cause ive bouble
checked that

Todd

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 10:46:29 EST
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock/update

In a message dated 98-11-30 18:39:05 EST, you write:

>
>The Paddock is selling Hurst/Olds Dual Gate shifters. Anyone seen these
>or had any experiences? They are asking $499 - the unit looks nice in
>the picture, even has the rocket on the upper right-hand corner.
>
>

to all on the list, i called the paddock today and they said there dual gates
do not come with the shift cable. operator also said he was unsure about the
70 models having the neutral safety switch but imagined it did. he went on to
say the first few shifters they had sold came with the black knob but now they
had run out. when i asked if they had a vendor to get more shifter knobs he
said no.  i did mention to him that the top plates and shifter knobs were hard
to find items for olds, and it might be some thing for his company to
consider.  it seems to me if they are making the whole shifter new, then they
should be able to get indivdual pieces as well , such as the top plate,knobs,
or neutral switch.     fwiw.     steven, w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 10:52:38 -0500 
From: Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca
Subject: RE: 3 Speed Trans

If I had to guess, and that's what I'm doing, I would say 2.73:1 rear gear
ratio was used. Just because that was the defacto standard, usually in '72.
Although your 3 speed manual gear box is throwing me for a loop.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Tom [SMTP:72rocket@netnitco.net]
> Sent:	Wednesday, December 02, 1998 10:19 PM
> To:	'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject:	3 Speed Trans
> 
> With all of this talk about rear end ratios I am wondering if anyone has 
> any info on what the typical setup was for a 72 Cutlass/F85 with a 3 speed
> 
> manual trans.  I am wondering what the trans gear ratios are as well as 
> what rear ends were used.  My car seems to hit 3rd gear at pretty low 
> speeds, around 30 or so.  Almost like it really needs a fourth gear.
> 
> Tom
> 72 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 11:02:09 -0500
From: "erik HILL" <ehill@gowebway.com>
Subject: Re: Hotchkis control arms

where'd you get those control arms, and how much ?
Erik

- ----------
> From: Shang <shang@wans.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Hotchkis control arms
> Date: Wednesday, August 12, 1998 5:49 PM
> 
> 
> Just received my Hotchkis control arms - all I can say is, nice! MUCH
> thicker than I expected, you'd have to really work to make these things
> flex.
> 
> 
> Stephen Hoover
> Dallas, Texas
> '70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 08:57:18 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Air Bags (what are they)

>They are bags that go inside the coil springs and can be purchesed at
>most RV centers or spring shops and they are not a pain.....
>

How much stiffer will they make the suspention.  Also, would I have to
re-pump them all the time, and finally, are they expensive.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 11:00:45 -0500 
From: Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca
Subject: RE: Heat Activated Choke Tube

	Ooohhhh. O.k., then the best way is to make sure both surfaces are
smooth and even. Take a flat file and just smooth out the mounting surface
on the intake. Try not to take too much off, unless it's very pitted. Take
enough off until the surface shines. That should be enough. Try and do the
same for the choke tube assembly. This will be in worse shape than the
intake. Try and file as much from the mounting surface as you can. What is
important is that the surfaces be smooth but even. You should be able to put
the choke unit into a vise and file it there. 

	I have tried using hi-temp silicone, but the heat isn't the problem
it's the pressure from the exhaust that will blow it out, hence the need for
an even mounting surface. If you can't get a good seal, and you will know
when it leaks (you can hear it very clearly). Try getting a hold of some
copper sheets. They sell them at hardware or automotive stores. And cut out
a gasket. It should help to seal it. Hope this helps..

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	72Hurst [SMTP:72hurst@net-email.com]
> Sent:	Wednesday, December 02, 1998 11:25 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	Re: Heat Activated Choke Tube
> 
> The thing is, I want to still use the heat activated choke as it is
> supposed
> to be, I don't want to cap off the opening, I'm just looking for a way to
> seal around the fitting more effectively.
> 
> John
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> 
> I used a piece of aluminum cut to the roughly the same shape and bolted it
> over the choke opening. I used no sealers and it's been very effective. No
> leaks thus far. The aluminum adds a little flare, especially since it
> won't
> tarnish or fade.
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 07:59:05 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Re: 3 Speed Trans

>My car seems to hit 3rd gear at pretty low speeds, around 30 or so.
A fourth gear in a four speed is the same as third in a three speed, 1:1.
Rear end ratios
were pretty much the same choices for all manual transmissions back then.  I
am not sure about the 72 year, but in 70 they ran from 3.08 to 3.91 for your
basic choices.  With other ratios available by special order or dealer
installed.  Depending on where the car was sold originally may make a
difference also.  Cars from the flat parts of the country usually had milder
gearing, while one from mountainous regions had the stiffer gears.  Sounds
like you may have one from the mountainous regions.  The only way to change
your ride would be to switch rear gears or install a later model trans with
overdrive. Some taller rear tires would also help. On the other hand, that car
should really jump of the line if it is geared like I suspect.  I see a lot of
talk on this list about the fear of spinning the engine too hard at highway
speeds.  Most of the older cars had high 3 or low 4 series gears from the
factory and did just fine.  The 2 series gears were usually reserved for
grandma in her 98.  Some of the other list members think they have a hot rod
when they have 2.73 gears, but in the 60's anything less than 3.42 gears were
considered sluggish.  It all depends on what you get acclimated to.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2
with those old folks 3.42's

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 11:15:28 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Air Bags (what are they)

Igor wrote:
How much stiffer will they make the suspension.  Also, would I have to
re-pump them all the time, and finally, are they expensive.

About $80. a set.

As harsh as you want to go up to their air pressure limit, where is that
spec sheet.

If plumbed properly, should hold their pressure well. I've had mine up and
down as I configured the suspension so don't have pressure hold longevity
for you. I would venture to say that barring any problems, a monthly
pressure check should be in order.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

ICQ# 5209322 = "CC-IROC-SS"
Personal ICQ Communication Center:
http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
Project Questions To:
mailto:cc-iroc-ss@CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 09:43:23 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Air Bags (what are they)

Finally, how much do they help traction.  I would like to bring my converter
to stall speed (aprox. 2200 rpm) and launch like that at the stop-light.
Now, I cant even dream of that.  The motor is all bottom-end power.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 11:55:05 -0500
From: "George & Joan C. Lesperance" <gal1@MNSi.Net>
Subject: Re: Auctioneer

Hi Wayne:  Please let us know when and where the auction will be  -
Thank-you

Joan & George Lesperance

Wayne Schwartz wrote:

> This is automotive but not necessarily Olds.  I'm acquainted with a
> family who are trying to dispose of the contents of a auto wrecking yard
> on southern Ontario.  Their 85 yr old owner father passed away
> recently.  The yard has components dating back to the 20's.  Also stored
> there was a 65 Mustang w/ 20,000 miles and a 55 Caddy w/ less than
> 30,000 miles both originally bought by the family.  Most of the parts
> are 40's-80's.  The family is interested in connecting with an auto
> auction firm to dispose of all parts.....but not the previously
> mentioned cars.  They are not interesed in selling parts to
> individuals.  Any leads on an auction firm.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 11:51:56 EST
From: Nolds442@aol.com
Subject: Please remove me from the 
list!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

As much as I enjoy the information I don't have time to check 100 e-mails a
day so if you would take me off of the list I would appreciate it thanks
guys/girls.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 09:54:30 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Small Block update?

I don't think that spending all that money on a 260 is a good idea.  When I
had my 307 (and I love that motor) in the Delta, I was SET on not changing
the motor.  People were telling me to just drop a 350 or a 403 in, but I
ignored them.  To be honest, I have spend almost a $1000 in the 307 (Nothing
major, just this and that....).  When I blew the timing chain, I used it as
an excuse to pull the motor and rebuild it.  I then decided to get a 455,
rebuild it, put good exhaust on it and be off.  I can tell you one thing,
though, that the 455 kicks ASS over a 307, especially in a big car like my
Delta 88.  Up here in Canada, were a dollar is like .50 cents down in the
states, a rebuilt olds V8 can be obtained for about $1200 + core.  I figure,
that if you get a core for $200 (including stock intake, carb), for $800 or
so you can get them to stock rebuilt it for you.  All you do at this time is
spend about $50 more for better (higher CR.) pistons and $30 on a better
"RV" cam, and that is it.  Trust me, swapping an engine Vs. all the work you
propose is just as easy if not easier.  For $1200 US, I think that you can
get a decent 403 or a 350 or even a 455.  Put that in, get better exhaust
and you will absolutely LOVE it compared to the 260.  However, if you do get
a bigger motor, there will be other things to do, like TRACTION.  I bet you
have hard time spinning the tires (decent tires) with a 260.  You would be
surprised how much stronger a 350/403/455 is.  Good luck.  Igor.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s posi)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 12:10:31 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Air Bags (what are they)

This is hard to say as the system is car/setup specific. To guess I would
estimate with the side to side pressure fine tuned I sense approximately 10%
better grip to the road.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

ICQ# 5209322 = "CC-IROC-SS"
Personal ICQ Communication Center:
http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
Project Questions To:
mailto:cc-iroc-ss@CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Igor T. '81 DRB 455
Sent: Thursday, December 03, 1998 11:43 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Air Bags (what are they)



Finally, how much do they help traction.  I would like to bring my converter
to stall speed (aprox. 2200 rpm) and launch like that at the stop-light.
Now, I cant even dream of that.  The motor is all bottom-end power.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 10:12:00 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: W-30 455 rebuild

I think new bearings, oil pump, gaskets, timing gears, timing chain, and a head
job are mandatory if the engine has many miles (you didn't mention how many
this motor has).  If the crank and rods don't have any signs of damage then
leave them alone.  I would replace all the lifters and any damaged or suspect
pushrods, rockers, and bridges.  The deeper and more vital the part is in the
motor, the greater the incentive to replace it now.

Because of the high cost of Oldsmobile pistons the big question is to bore or
not to bore.  You will not be able to answer that until you have the engine
tore down and have a good machine shop measure the bores.  Of course good
machine shops want you to bore if there is much wear at all.  For one thing
they know that an engine they bore should seal tighter and last longer than a
honed one.  This makes them look good.   It's also my understanding that the
oval shape of a worn bore causes stress on the rings causing them to break
earlier.  In addition the wear on the piston sides and the bore are cumulative
so worn pistons in a worn hole may clatter more and break skirts.

If the machine shop says you're within tolerances for a hone only and you do
not plan on putting on high mileage (just hard miles) then skip the pistons. 
If you need to bore then remember that forged pistons are not much more
expensive than cast for an Olds and they are superior (stronger and better heat
dissipation).

If I wanted to do the heads I would have a shop grind the A.I.R. bumps down,
debur the runners, and polish the exhaust ports.  Anything more than that
requires someone who knows exactly what they are doing and a flow bench.  The
FAQ talks about working the oil flow area on the heads to help get the vital
juice back where it belongs and I think this is a good idea even though I
haven't done it (yet).

Beside boring the next toughest question will be what cam to use.  Unless yours
is in really good shape you will want a new one.  Modern grinds are said to be
much superior to the old ones but beware of cams that make big power by ruining
your idle.  The best cam depends on the gearing, torque convertor, intake,
heads, pistons, driving style, and so many other things it's tough to figure
out exactly what you need.  I have always had too much cam in my Olds engines
so I'm leaning toward a mild one this time.  Lack of power for brakes, idling
at 1500, and lurching when you put it into gear are not cool for a daily
driver.  Get lots of opinions for the people who have actually built
Oldsmobiles and drive them.  Supercars Unlimited can help you out and
Mondello's probably will too.

Good luck, and please remember that what I've said here is one opinion only. 
Let us know how it goes.


Steven Saraceno wrote:
> 
> OK, my car is going into the shop tomorrow for an engine rebuild.
> 
> Problem:
> It has extremely bad blow by - about a quart of oil a day.
> 
> Usage:
> Mostly with the Family, sometimes to work on beautiful days.
> I have never raced it but with the new drag strip in Joliet Illinois I
> know I will at least a couple of times a year.  So a stock W-30
> performance level should be fine.
> 
> Questions:
> Of course I would love 550hp but it is a cruiser not a racer.
> Do I have Mondello work the heads?
> Do I replace any certain parts no matter what - i.e. camshaft rings and
> bearings of course(I think).  But how about pistons, water pump, valves
> etc.  Are there things I should do as long as the engine is a part?
> 
> Am I asking too much to have a lightly modified street worthy W-30, that
> will do low 13's or high 12's in the ¼ mile?  It has the original 70 455
> block, F-heads and carb with electronic ignition with a turbo 400 trans
> and a W-27 rear end - can't find the code but the car has air so I
> assume it is a 3.23.  I do want it to appear stock so I want to keep the
> W-30 intake also.
> 
> Any insight appreciated.
> 
> Steven

- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 09:39:37 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

The reason I was asking is that I have a dual gate out of a 1968 GTO is 
this the same as a 71 dual gate for a cutlass?


>> Does anyone know if this is true.  What is the difference in the olds
>> and gto versions? Taller or something?
>> 
>It's an Olds shifter.  Pontiac's are like the 68/69 H/Os.  FAT sticks
>with a big old top plate.
>
>Trust me.  It will fit your olds perfectly.
>
>Mike Rothe
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 09:39:52 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

The reason I was asking is that I have a dual gate out of a 1968 GTO is 
this the same as a 71 dual gate for a cutlass?


>> Does anyone know if this is true.  What is the difference in the olds
>> and gto versions? Taller or something?
>> 
>It's an Olds shifter.  Pontiac's are like the 68/69 H/Os.  FAT sticks
>with a big old top plate.
>
>Trust me.  It will fit your olds perfectly.
>
>Mike Rothe
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 09:39:52 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

The reason I was asking is that I have a dual gate out of a 1968 GTO is 
this the same as a 71 dual gate for a cutlass?


>> Does anyone know if this is true.  What is the difference in the olds
>> and gto versions? Taller or something?
>> 
>It's an Olds shifter.  Pontiac's are like the 68/69 H/Os.  FAT sticks
>with a big old top plate.
>
>Trust me.  It will fit your olds perfectly.
>
>Mike Rothe
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 09:39:37 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

The reason I was asking is that I have a dual gate out of a 1968 GTO is 
this the same as a 71 dual gate for a cutlass?


>> Does anyone know if this is true.  What is the difference in the olds
>> and gto versions? Taller or something?
>> 
>It's an Olds shifter.  Pontiac's are like the 68/69 H/Os.  FAT sticks
>with a big old top plate.
>
>Trust me.  It will fit your olds perfectly.
>
>Mike Rothe
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 09:39:52 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

The reason I was asking is that I have a dual gate out of a 1968 GTO is 
this the same as a 71 dual gate for a cutlass?


>> Does anyone know if this is true.  What is the difference in the olds
>> and gto versions? Taller or something?
>> 
>It's an Olds shifter.  Pontiac's are like the 68/69 H/Os.  FAT sticks
>with a big old top plate.
>
>Trust me.  It will fit your olds perfectly.
>
>Mike Rothe
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 09:39:52 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

The reason I was asking is that I have a dual gate out of a 1968 GTO is 
this the same as a 71 dual gate for a cutlass?


>> Does anyone know if this is true.  What is the difference in the olds
>> and gto versions? Taller or something?
>> 
>It's an Olds shifter.  Pontiac's are like the 68/69 H/Os.  FAT sticks
>with a big old top plate.
>
>Trust me.  It will fit your olds perfectly.
>
>Mike Rothe
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 09:39:52 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

The reason I was asking is that I have a dual gate out of a 1968 GTO is 
this the same as a 71 dual gate for a cutlass?


>> Does anyone know if this is true.  What is the difference in the olds
>> and gto versions? Taller or something?
>> 
>It's an Olds shifter.  Pontiac's are like the 68/69 H/Os.  FAT sticks
>with a big old top plate.
>
>Trust me.  It will fit your olds perfectly.
>
>Mike Rothe
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 09:39:52 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

The reason I was asking is that I have a dual gate out of a 1968 GTO is 
this the same as a 71 dual gate for a cutlass?


>> Does anyone know if this is true.  What is the difference in the olds
>> and gto versions? Taller or something?
>> 
>It's an Olds shifter.  Pontiac's are like the 68/69 H/Os.  FAT sticks
>with a big old top plate.
>
>Trust me.  It will fit your olds perfectly.
>
>Mike Rothe
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 09:39:52 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

The reason I was asking is that I have a dual gate out of a 1968 GTO is 
this the same as a 71 dual gate for a cutlass?


>> Does anyone know if this is true.  What is the difference in the olds
>> and gto versions? Taller or something?
>> 
>It's an Olds shifter.  Pontiac's are like the 68/69 H/Os.  FAT sticks
>with a big old top plate.
>
>Trust me.  It will fit your olds perfectly.
>
>Mike Rothe
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 09:39:52 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

The reason I was asking is that I have a dual gate out of a 1968 GTO is 
this the same as a 71 dual gate for a cutlass?


>> Does anyone know if this is true.  What is the difference in the olds
>> and gto versions? Taller or something?
>> 
>It's an Olds shifter.  Pontiac's are like the 68/69 H/Os.  FAT sticks
>with a big old top plate.
>
>Trust me.  It will fit your olds perfectly.
>
>Mike Rothe
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 09:39:52 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

The reason I was asking is that I have a dual gate out of a 1968 GTO is 
this the same as a 71 dual gate for a cutlass?


>> Does anyone know if this is true.  What is the difference in the olds
>> and gto versions? Taller or something?
>> 
>It's an Olds shifter.  Pontiac's are like the 68/69 H/Os.  FAT sticks
>with a big old top plate.
>
>Trust me.  It will fit your olds perfectly.
>
>Mike Rothe
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 09:39:52 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

The reason I was asking is that I have a dual gate out of a 1968 GTO is 
this the same as a 71 dual gate for a cutlass?


>> Does anyone know if this is true.  What is the difference in the olds
>> and gto versions? Taller or something?
>> 
>It's an Olds shifter.  Pontiac's are like the 68/69 H/Os.  FAT sticks
>with a big old top plate.
>
>Trust me.  It will fit your olds perfectly.
>
>Mike Rothe
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 09:39:37 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

The reason I was asking is that I have a dual gate out of a 1968 GTO is 
this the same as a 71 dual gate for a cutlass?


>> Does anyone know if this is true.  What is the difference in the olds
>> and gto versions? Taller or something?
>> 
>It's an Olds shifter.  Pontiac's are like the 68/69 H/Os.  FAT sticks
>with a big old top plate.
>
>Trust me.  It will fit your olds perfectly.
>
>Mike Rothe
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 09:39:37 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

The reason I was asking is that I have a dual gate out of a 1968 GTO is 
this the same as a 71 dual gate for a cutlass?


>> Does anyone know if this is true.  What is the difference in the olds
>> and gto versions? Taller or something?
>> 
>It's an Olds shifter.  Pontiac's are like the 68/69 H/Os.  FAT sticks
>with a big old top plate.
>
>Trust me.  It will fit your olds perfectly.
>
>Mike Rothe
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 09:39:37 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

The reason I was asking is that I have a dual gate out of a 1968 GTO is 
this the same as a 71 dual gate for a cutlass?


>> Does anyone know if this is true.  What is the difference in the olds
>> and gto versions? Taller or something?
>> 
>It's an Olds shifter.  Pontiac's are like the 68/69 H/Os.  FAT sticks
>with a big old top plate.
>
>Trust me.  It will fit your olds perfectly.
>
>Mike Rothe
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 09:39:37 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

The reason I was asking is that I have a dual gate out of a 1968 GTO is 
this the same as a 71 dual gate for a cutlass?


>> Does anyone know if this is true.  What is the difference in the olds
>> and gto versions? Taller or something?
>> 
>It's an Olds shifter.  Pontiac's are like the 68/69 H/Os.  FAT sticks
>with a big old top plate.
>
>Trust me.  It will fit your olds perfectly.
>
>Mike Rothe
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 09:39:37 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

The reason I was asking is that I have a dual gate out of a 1968 GTO is 
this the same as a 71 dual gate for a cutlass?


>> Does anyone know if this is true.  What is the difference in the olds
>> and gto versions? Taller or something?
>> 
>It's an Olds shifter.  Pontiac's are like the 68/69 H/Os.  FAT sticks
>with a big old top plate.
>
>Trust me.  It will fit your olds perfectly.
>
>Mike Rothe
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 09:39:37 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

The reason I was asking is that I have a dual gate out of a 1968 GTO is 
this the same as a 71 dual gate for a cutlass?


>> Does anyone know if this is true.  What is the difference in the olds
>> and gto versions? Taller or something?
>> 
>It's an Olds shifter.  Pontiac's are like the 68/69 H/Os.  FAT sticks
>with a big old top plate.
>
>Trust me.  It will fit your olds perfectly.
>
>Mike Rothe
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 09:39:37 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

The reason I was asking is that I have a dual gate out of a 1968 GTO is 
this the same as a 71 dual gate for a cutlass?


>> Does anyone know if this is true.  What is the difference in the olds
>> and gto versions? Taller or something?
>> 
>It's an Olds shifter.  Pontiac's are like the 68/69 H/Os.  FAT sticks
>with a big old top plate.
>
>Trust me.  It will fit your olds perfectly.
>
>Mike Rothe
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 09:39:37 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

The reason I was asking is that I have a dual gate out of a 1968 GTO is 
this the same as a 71 dual gate for a cutlass?


>> Does anyone know if this is true.  What is the difference in the olds
>> and gto versions? Taller or something?
>> 
>It's an Olds shifter.  Pontiac's are like the 68/69 H/Os.  FAT sticks
>with a big old top plate.
>
>Trust me.  It will fit your olds perfectly.
>
>Mike Rothe
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 09:39:37 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

The reason I was asking is that I have a dual gate out of a 1968 GTO is 
this the same as a 71 dual gate for a cutlass?


>> Does anyone know if this is true.  What is the difference in the olds
>> and gto versions? Taller or something?
>> 
>It's an Olds shifter.  Pontiac's are like the 68/69 H/Os.  FAT sticks
>with a big old top plate.
>
>Trust me.  It will fit your olds perfectly.
>
>Mike Rothe
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 12:49:58 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: ?Restoration?

In a message dated 98-12-03 02:17:39 EST, you write:

<< > Since you all seem to know so much, where can I find an owners
 > manual for my 1975 Oldsmobile Delta 88.  When I bought it it did not
 > have one and have had no luck for 5 years.
 
 Have you tried Helm Inc?  I believe they have a web site that will pop
 up with a search.  If not I know they have an 800 number but I don't
 have it. >>

Helm's Publishing  1 800 782-4356

You might also try 1 800 BY A BOOK
They might not have owner's manuals, but will likely have the service manuals.

The best prices are at swap meets and on Ebay.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 12:49:57 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rings in oil pan how serious?

In a message dated 98-12-03 00:36:13 EST, you write:

<< In a word...  yes.  As long as you consider broken piston(s) and scored
cylinder
 walls normal.  On the other hand, these are normally replaced and
reconditioned
 to a point anyway, >>

If Karl might...
Damage (scoring) to cylinder walls will be proportional to size of peices of
ring found in oil pan.
Piston(s) need not be broken, especially if many miles on engine.

Now for the GOOD news!
Most 425cid engines that Karl knows of are 10.25:1 (or more) stock
compression.
Overboring INCREASES the compression ratio!
(due to larger cylinder volume)
Add to that a set of truly flat pistons and (arrrh urrrh arrr!)...

You do plan on using only high octane in this project motor?

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 12:50:25 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

The reason I was asking is that I have a dual gate out of a 1968 GTO is
this the same as a 71 dual gate for a cutlass?
_________

Nope.  The mechanism should be the same, but Pontiac used a straight stick,
while the Olds dual gate used a "bent" stick.  The top plates are different
also.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 13:04:00 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: 17??(Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock)

jason shreve wrote:
> 
> The reason I was asking is that I have a dual gate out of a 1968 GTO is
> this the same as a 71 dual gate for a cutlass?
> 

WHOLY....! Why did i just get 17 of these?!

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***************************
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 V-8 4 bbl)
1975 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (250 I-6 1 bbl)
1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (350 V-8 2 bbl)
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4 bbl)
*******************************************
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 12:03:39 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: ?Restoration?

Hi Mark, 

don't know where to get an owners manual. Why do you want one? Well, I 
would go with a shop manual straight ahead. Forgot where I ordered mine 
but I think it was fusicks automotive. (http://www.fusick.com).

For the restauration order: When it needs everything like mine, I would 
start mechanically: 
Engine, Tranny, Rear End, Suspension
Then go to the cosmetics:
Body, Paint, Interior...

I am actually somewhere in the first step... hope to get the living room 
clear for christmas... so long, George
- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

On Thu, 3 Dec 1998, Mark wrote:

> Since you all seem to know so much, where can I find an owners
> manual for my 1975 Oldsmobile Delta 88.  When I bought it it did not
> have one and have had no luck for 5 years.
> 
>   Secondly, I want to slowly restore it, but am not sure where to start.
> Any suggestions? I am a little strapped for cash so will probably have
> to wait on some of the needed things.  But where do you people
> usually start?
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 13:15:52 EST
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: Re: Cruise Control fixed

my cruise control on the 82 cutlass is working again for everyone that said to
check the vacum lines you were right I opened the hood and it was just laying
there fell right off, but it works again so thanks for your 
help.				
															
Rich

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 12:13:03 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Hei Conversion

> Jim & Sharon Brady wrote:
> > 
> > This goes out to anyone who has done the points to HEI conversion.  I just
> > purchased and HEI from Jim Chermack for my '73 Delta 88.  How did you or 
did
> > you have to do much rewiring?  More importantly I would like to get a copy
> > of the wiring diagram for the HEI.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> > 
> > Jim Brady
> > 1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
> > http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
> > bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
> 
> 
> Bare with me for my insolence, but what exactly is HEI?
> What are you hoping for, as far as results?

HEI = High Energy Ignition, should put more current thru the plugs and 
give a more effective spark which leads to a more complete and 
synchronous explosion in the chamber => runs better. 

I hope that the HEI on my 350 will do the job. It was on there when I got 
it and is obviously only a newer Olds ignition. I suspect it to be out of 
a 78 or so. (Is that possible?) Well, the wiring looked just like it would 
be original (which was very opposite to the rest of the things, <Grin>)
Why doesnt your kit you bought tell you how to wire? No or bad manual? Or 
is Jim Jarmush, eah Chermack just a guy you know / olds lister?

Good Luck 

George
- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 11:37:32 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Hei Conversion

Since HEI only needs 1 connection to work, 12V+ power to the correct terminal,
I just snipped one from another vehicle and patched it in.  I bypassed the old
resistor wire that fed the coil and pulled power from somewhere else.  As a
warning, make sure where you get the switched 12V+ power is on a fuse with
sufficient amperage.  The only time our Ch*v*lle ever stranded us was when we
powered up all the accessories (including a rear window heater that had also
been patched in) and blew the fuse that also had the HEI on it.

The HEI cap has markings above the terminals telling you what goes where
including the tach so it's a piece of cake.  If you get enough wire with the
connector you snip you can run the wires through the firewall before patching
them so it will look fairly stock.  Or, I guess, you could run it over to the
firewall patch panel and use some unused connectors there.

Good luck

Jim & Sharon Brady wrote:
>
> This goes out to anyone who has done the points to HEI conversion.  I just
> purchased and HEI from Jim Chermack for my '73 Delta 88.  How did you or did
> you have to do much rewiring?  More importantly I would like to get a copy
> of the wiring diagram for the HEI.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.
>
><major snip>

- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 13:43:42 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Rocket Talk

Things have been getting off-topic lately so....

Spill bile, non-Olds info, and general stuff at Rocket Talk!

http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner

That is the place!
Karl will show at approximately 8pm central time (daylight savings).

Back to more lightning rods!

K

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 11:03:48 -0800 
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Hei Conversion

I just replaced the resistor wire with a nice thick 10 guage wire on both my
66's where it joined the rest of the harness. Works like a charm, also you
draw power from the correct,
switched ignition circuit. Good idea to do the switch to an internally
regulated alternator while you're in there. See the FAQ for a diagram on
that. 

The resistor wire is easy to id, since it's cloth covered. Just trace it out
to the point where its soldered to the regular wire and replace. 

I also run my electrice choke off this circuit against some recommendations,
but have not had problems to date.
cf

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim & Sharon Brady [mailto:bradyiii@shore.intercom.net]
> Sent: Thursday, December 03, 1998 3:23 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Hei Conversion
> 
> 
> This goes out to anyone who has done the points to HEI 
> conversion.  I just
> purchased and HEI from Jim Chermack for my '73 Delta 88.  How 
> did you or did
> you have to do much rewiring?  More importantly I would like 
> to get a copy
> of the wiring diagram for the HEI.  Any help would be greatly 
> appreciated.
> 
> Jim Brady
> 1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
> http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
> bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 11:46:50 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@yahoo.com>
Subject: Paging Jim Chermack

Jim Chermack, please email me direct. I lost your address!

Thanks

John Pajak  
jspajak@yahoo.com
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 11:42:09 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Lightning Rod Shifter

Norval Minnear wrote:
> 
> I am looking for a set of Lightning Rod Shifters and Console for my 76
> Hurst Olds I will buy the Lightning Rods With or without the console .
> Thanks Norval,



Norval,

(1976 Hurst/Olds?)
The Lightning Rods shifters are still available 
from Hurst.  Part number 385-0006 is the floor
mounted model.  And #385-0009 is designed to
fit C*maro, F*rebird factory consoles.
I would imagine one or the other of these
could be adapted for your application.


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249

Web site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 13:23:38 -0700 
From: Arnold Alvin TSgt <alvin.arnold@schriever.af.mil>
Subject: RE: Lightning Rod Shifter

  I thought they were discontinued...  after Hurst was purchased by Mr
Gasket Company.

  If you have a phone number where I can confirm they are still available
I'll buy one myself.

  Thanks,

  Louie Arnold

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Greg Rollin [SMTP:supercars@transport.com]
> Sent:	Thursday, December 03, 1998 12:42 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	Re: Lightning Rod Shifter
> 
> Norval Minnear wrote:
> > 
> > I am looking for a set of Lightning Rod Shifters and Console for my 76
> > Hurst Olds I will buy the Lightning Rods With or without the console .
> > Thanks Norval,
> 
> 
> 
> Norval,
> 
> (1976 Hurst/Olds?)
> The Lightning Rods shifters are still available 
> from Hurst.  Part number 385-0006 is the floor
> mounted model.  And #385-0009 is designed to
> fit C*maro, F*rebird factory consoles.
> I would imagine one or the other of these
> could be adapted for your application.
> 
> 
> Greg Rollin
> Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
> 503-244-8249
> 
> Web site:
> http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
> 
> E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 15:51:38 -0500
From: Bob Dale <bctad5@toolcity.net>
Subject: (no subject)

subscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 15:57:28 EST
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

In a message dated 11/30/98, 2:39:12 PM, oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca writes:
<<The Paddock is selling Hurst/Olds Dual Gate shifters. Anyone seen these
or had any experiences? They are asking $499 - the unit looks nice in
the picture, even has the rocket on the upper right-hand corner.>>
what do they go for used?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 14:58:27 -0600
From: "John Harper" <jharper@goldengate.net>
Subject: Remove from List

Please remove me from the list.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 16:12:37 EST
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Dual Gate Shifter for sale

Make me an offer it has top plate,cable etc no console i just pulled it out of
my car.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 16:19:46 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Small Block update?

In a message dated 12/2/98 11:48:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
cblundin@flash.net writes:

<< 4. The 260cid probably needs new rings and bearings etc. HOwever, the
 cylinder pressure is averaging 60psi and is realtively even across
 cylinders so a overhaul could be dealyed. However the current carb is in
 terrible shape with a faulty accelerator pump and a ruptured/stuck
 power-valve. It needs to be replaced soon, and that can be more quickly
 & easily implemented with the Holley 4175, using the stock intake
 manifold and no changes to headers( so Holley says anyway).  So I could
 fix the immediate need with only approx $340 and do the other work
 later, and get an increase ( granted smaller however) in performance(
 per Holley again).
 
 5. My overall goal for improving performance is to keep the car and keep
 it running satisfactorily and do so without taking big risks in unknown
 parts/engines. Motivation is out of financial limitation rather than
 from using surplus cash to build a show car( Maybe that can happen in
 the future). 
  >>

since i once had a 260, i feel like i need to say something here.  the 260 is
a totally different engine when compared to other olds v-8s, in my opinion.
you cant do very much with a 260 at all.  the one that was in my car finally
made me mad enough for me to swap it out with a 350.  some of the things wrong
with the 260 were:  worn out valve guides, LOOSE timing chain, intake full of
carbon, and about 15,000 miles before i pulled the engine one of the lifters
died. anyways, i kept this engine hobbling along while i built up my 350 in
the garage.  id say it took about 3 months for me to get all the stuff
together and all the machine work done.  
       if you want to spend the least amount of money possible and still have
a driver, im going to say stick with the current engine and put in a new
timing chain, rebuild the carb, and possibly have some headwork done.  this is
if the shortblock is ok.  
       if you want to enjoy your car, i would hobble along on the 260 until i
could find a good junkyard 350 or 403.  then, add an aluminum intake and
rebuild the q-jet that came on the junker. (if it came with one)  rebuilding
will cost you about 30 bucks doing it yourself.  not too hard to do, just
follow instructions.  you might also swap in an edelbrock performer cam or the
like, which will really make for a nice engine.  once you get the engine in
the car, drive it for a while till you can get us some more money for mods.  i
would say tranny or exhaust.  dont even worry about all the msd ignition,
headers, holley carbs, trick ignition wires or plugs, or expensive mufflers.
they wont do you much good.  well, not unless your making 400hp or more, but i
dont think youll have that much.
      i would ditch the 260 and go with at least a junkyard 350.  in the
longrun youll really enjoy it.  oh yea, my worn out 260 didnt do any better
than my 350 in highway mileage, either.  i was getting 17mpg with the 260, and
i got that with my 350, too.
jeremy

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1640
*********************************

