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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1604


oldsmobile-digest      Sunday, November 15 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1604



The Olds, Buick and Pontiac 455's are all different.
Re: HEI swap
Re: OAI vacuum motor
Re: another question
Edelbroch #6015 heads
Re: Starter solenoid solution
Re: Couple of Questions (different dude) (fuel?)
Olds convertible(s) in "Practical Magic"
Help - rear end color question?
Re: W-30 intake
Re: replacing brake hose
H/O on MCC
Disregard last post
Re: US Postal Money Orders
Re: Ga VS J heads
M22 & M21 Transmission Differences (Input Shaft Only)
UNBOUNCE: Rear End Color
Re: Ga VS J heads
'80 Cutlass w/ a 268 engine?
Re: '80 Cutlass w/ a 268 engine?
Re: '80 Cutlass w/ a 268 engine?
Re: '80 Cutlass w/ a 268 engine?
Re: M22 & M21 Transmission Differences (Input Shaft Only)
crossmember question
Re: '80 Cutlass w/ a 268 engine?
Re: M22 & M21 Transmission Differences (Input Shaft Only)
Re: Couple of Questions (different dude) (fuel?)
UNBOUNCE: Crossmember question
Harry's Pull and Save
Re: next question--brake line
Rear axle rebuild - excessive endplay?
Non-Olds, 4 grins An Office Prayer
455 Lower Radiator hose
parts for oldsmobile Delta Royale 1976
Re: Ga VS J heads
Re: 455 Lower Radiator hose
manual brakes
Re: manual brakes
Re: Ga VS J heads
RE: Harry's Pull and Save
1968 OLDS Ninety-Eight   AC/heater control panel
Re: manual brakes
Killer 442?
Re: Harry's Pull and Save
Re: '80 Cutlass w/ a 268 engine?
wind wing h@lp.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 10:22:08 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: The Olds, Buick and Pontiac 455's are all different.

>Actually, the Olds 455 has a bore of 4.125" and a stroke of 4.250".  Do the
>math, and you'll find that it actually displaces a little over 454 cubic
>inches.
According to my shop manual, the Olds 455 has a 4.126 inch bore not 4.125.
>The Buick 455 has a bore of 4.313" and a stroke of 3.900".
>
>...They are both 455ci, but they share almost nothing in common (the Olds
>is a hellofalot
>better...
>
The Olds 455 better than Buick 455...that is strickly opinion.  The Buick
has the over square bore(larger bore than stroke) ideal for performance
applications.  The Buick 455 in stock form in a Buick GSX is the meanest
factory auto I have ever scene.  Look at the latest edition of Muscle Car
Review.  The Buick beat the LS6 Chevelle and yes, even Dan Jansen's Olds.
My Classic Car had a Buick 455 GS that had never been restored, just
super-tuned.  That car did 12.36 with Dennis Gage(host of MCC) in the
passenger seat!  Don't get me wrong, I have an Olds 455 and love it's
ruggedness and durability and will build it to be as fast as I can afford to
make it!  I am also really impressed with the number of Olds' in the low
12's in the quarter.  Impressive!  I don't do alot of cross comparisons
within GM because each Division make remarkable machines.  Give me an open
check book with the car of my choice and I will pick an Olds with a 455 Olds
everytime!

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
>
>You're right, they share nothing other than the distributor cap and the
>bellhousing bolt pattern, but I suspect that the short-stroke 425 Olds fans
>on the list might take exception to your last comment.  Note that with the
>Stage 1 heads and this revving ability, the Bufords tend to do quite well
>in the quarter mile.  The infamous Stage 1 Buick vs. Hemi GTX upset years
>ago in Muscle Car Review (or whatever they were called at the time) is
>still talked about.
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 10:22:11 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: HEI swap

>today i did the normal HEI swap.  well, not so normal.  i replaced the
>computer controlled HEI with a vacuum advance one.  the v'a dist came out
of a
>77 403.  does anyone know if the vacuum advance will cause pinging?

If you were using a computerized distrib without a computer, you didn't have
much advance to speak of. Should work much better now. Adjust base timing
(vacuum advance disconnected) to specs, and you should be fine. The motor
was made to accept vac advance.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 10:26:34 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: OAI vacuum motor

>Does anyone know where you can buy a vacuum motor for an OAI flapper door?

If it's a typical 2 inch round gizmo with a J-hooked wire linkage sticking
out the bottom, just bring it to NAPA and they can find a replacement. Ford
makes 'em.

If it's special......ummm...I dunno.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 10:17:19 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: another question

Thanks for the help with the last few little questions, here's one more. I
can't
get my car to start anymore, when you turn the ignition, the car clicks
every 2
or 3 seconds, doesn't turn over and dims every light in the car to almost
non-
existant.
==========================

Sounds like a dead battery, or poor battery connections.

Test as follows:
Hold a voltmeter right on the battery terminals and have someone turn the
key. If the voltage drops way down, its the battery itself that's bad. If
not, it's a connection problem.

Batteries can become weak or bad in one cell, apperar to take a charge, but
have too high an internal resistance to be able to supply starting current.

"Connections" includes battery post terminals, and the crimped ends of both
cables. I've had problems with the clamp bar that holds the cables to the
battery terminals - sometimes the copper wire oxidizes and prevents good
connection. Scraping the bare wires with a knife often helps.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 10:26:09 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Edelbroch #6015 heads

Hello list.

I an highly interested in the new Edelbrock #6051 Cylinder Heads. Below is a
list of specs. Maybe since there Olds specific they should be included into
the FAQ. Are there any Olds heads that even come close to these specs? The
Edelbrock can be adapted to an Olds SB with an easy processes. I would like
to assess these heads and a properly milled intake - to  flange fit. using
the single Palenimum Torker for the port EFI. Anyone out there have
installed + performed a complete Edelbrock top end on either 403 + 455
naturally aspirated? Anyone have a similar setup? Anyone with an EFI on
their G-body? etc. etc...    Head specs below.


Part Number In.                 #6051
runner volume Ex.              188cc
runner volume                    106cc
Chamber volume                77cc
Deck thickness                   5/8"
Intake valve size                 2.072"
Exhaust valve size              1.680"
Valve spring diameter         1.45"
Rocker stud diameter           3/8"
Pushrod diameter (A)           5/16"
Intake Valve (1)                  #9375
Intake Valves (8)                #9376
Exhaust Valve (1)               #9377
Exhaust Valves (8)             #9378
Valve Springs (16)              #5767
Retainers (16)                    #9613
Keepers (32)                       #9611



Cylinder Head Flow Data at 28" H2O

             Flow @ valve lift

             .100"    67-67/54
             .200"  131-131/102
             .300"  195-195/137
             .400"  245-247/163
             .500"  278-256/179
             .600"  268-259/188
             .700"  xxxxxxxxxxxxx

The following is derived from Edelbrock site that I maintain on my HD. If
anyone can find this and other links pertaining to these units, please send
privately.

Edelbrock #6051 Cylinder Heads.

 The all new Edelbrock Performer RPM Aluminum Cylinder Heads for 400-425 and
455 Oldsmobile big block engines. This cylinder head has been a joint
venture in design and ideas with Edelbrock and Mondello for over two years.
These heads will accept all stock and after market intake and exhaust
manifolds, plus any type of headers. All bolt patterns and accessory bolt
pads are in stock location. The cylinder heads are supplied with 7/16" head
bolt holes and can easily be bored for ½" head bolts. The exhaust and rocker
stud holes are heli-coiled for added strength and longevity. The combustion
chamber volume is 77 cc's and can be milled for smaller cc's if needed. The
356-T6 heat treated aluminum casting is very strong and durable, plus will
give you a significant weight savings.

You can run a higher compression ratio about 10 to 1 with today?s gasoline
without detonation, because of the heat dissipating aluminum design
incorporating a new designed water jacket. The valve sizes are 2.072" intake
valve and a 1.680" exhaust valve both with 11/32" valve stem size, 45 degree
valve face, one piece stainless steel construction, undercut hard chromed
stem (the valve guide angle is 6 degrees). The pedestal-type stock rocker
arm assembly has been replaced with a 7/16" rocker stud and a 3/8"
guideplate, for adjustable rocker arms and will require special length 3/8"
hardened chrome molly push rods. The OEM position, intake entry and exhaust
exit, makes this head so unique because everything you now have will fit
with no modifications. The 6051 Edelbrock Performer RPM head flows in
prototype form, 299 CFM intake port flow and 207 CFM exhaust port flow. The
stock intake port flow on a "C" casting cylinder head is 230 CFM and the
exhaust is 162 CFM, which is 30% less than the new Edelbrock head. The
exhaust to intake flow ratio is 69%. The new double quench design combustion
chamber has the spark plug angled at 45 degrees and moved over closer to the
exhaust valve for a better and cleaner burning of the gases in each
cylinder, producing more power and torque. The intake port is stock size and
in stock location like the "C" casting Oldsmobile heads. The exhaust port is
a totally new design, which is much shorter in height, "eliminating the dead
area", but approximately the same width. The center line of the exhaust bolt
hole to the top of the exhaust port is .870", while the stock "C" head is
about .910". The exhaust port is 1.540" wide and 1.400" tall. The 6051
Edelbrock Performer RPM head is a high flow, high velocity cylinder head
design. The valves are longer than stock OEM Oldsmobile valves. The intake
valve is 4.756 long and the exhaust valve is 4.780 long, which will require
a taller than stock valve cover. The 6051 Edelbrock heads will come with
manganese bronze valve guides. The heads do not have any head cross over
provisions for a choke stove type choke and have individual exhaust port
runners for positive evacuation of the exhaust gases. The deck thickness is
.625" finished. You can mill these head surfaces .080" to .100", to decrease
the combustion chamber cc's for installation on 330-350 and 403 small-block
engines. You must use the 7111 Edelbrock Performer Manifold when using the
6051 or 6052 heads on a small block Oldsmobile engine. The 7111 has ample
aluminum for port matching and good gasket sealing. The pre-counterbored
head bolt holes will have to be bored to ½" for use on 1977 to 1980, 350-403
and 1978 to 1985 diesel blocks being used for gasoline applications. The
6051 Bare Performer RPM Heads come with valve guides, hardened seats, 7/16"
chrome molly rocker studs and 3/8" guide plates. The valve guides are not
reamed or honed and the valve seats are not machined. The 6052 Complete
Performer RPM heads come with stainless steel undercut valves, 7/16" studs,
3/8" guide plates, positive type valve stem seals, outer valve springs with
flat wound dampener, chrome molly 11/32" valve spring retainers and 11/32"
machined valve locks. The heads are assembled, ready to install on your
engine. The valve springs can be used on any hydraulic or mechanical
(non-roller) camshaft, up to 6000 RPM and .575 maximum lift. Joe Mondello
feels this is the best performance cylinder head ever built for the 1965 to
1976 big block Oldsmobile engine and can also be adapted with some work to
the small block Oldsmobile engines. This Performer RPM Cylinder Head out of
the box will give you much more power and torque over the best heads ever
built by Oldsmobile, plus it out flows any existing out-of-the-box
manufactured aluminum Oldsmobile heads. Mondello Performance Products will
offer 3 ported and polished versions of the Performer RPM Cylinder Heads
with increased flow, power and torque. Street-Strip, Bracket Ported and All
Out Competition Series. We will have twelve of our newest designed cams to
compliment this new Performer RPM cylinder head in hydraulic, flat tappet
and roller designs. We have seven High Performance, High RPM engineered
valve spring kits with chrome molly or titanium retainers available, plus
roller rocker arm kits in cast steel roller tip, aluminum and stainless
steel roller rockers, chrome molly push rods, 3/8" x 7/16" rocker studs,
Polly-locks and aluminum rocker arm stud girdle. We have 170,000 to 190,000
P.S.I. ARP head stud and head bolt kits in 7/16" & ½", Mondello cast
aluminum extra tall valve covers, special Posi-flow intake and exhaust
manifold gaskets, rubberized cork valve cover gaskets (10 bolt hole). We
also have a new Fel-Pro "O" ringed head gasket .039" compressed, especially
made for this head and guaranteed to hold up to 12:1 compression with ½"
head bolts or studs. We also have a 5/16" guide plate available and 5/16"
push rods, if you wish to go this way.

So any suggestion, experiences, etc. I will be effecting the head/intake
combo with sequential port EFI, with possibly single to dual turbo setup on
both 430ci and 455ci Olds...

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
Purling, N.Y.
 12470-9709

mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

ICQ# 5209322
Personal ICQ Communication Center
http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322

Couse Custom Cutlass Prototype,
CC-IROC-SS-#00001 =  "Quincy"
http://members.tripod.com/CC_IROC_SS/
Soon to be: www.CC_IROC_SS.com

Oldsmobile Club of America
http://www.oldsclub.org

For free Win95-98 Support, come visit GJC at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer
mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 10:32:46 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: Starter solenoid solution

Lou,
    I needed this because of my new headers.  For exhaust manifolds where
there is alot of heat, but not as much as with headers, I would try the
metal shield.  I think the metal shield is a little cheesy but if it works
it is the most factory correct looking solution.  The remote(Ford) solenoid
should be a last resort.  I don't like having it on the inner fender of my
Chevy but it does work well and I made a neat installation.

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
>
>Jim,
>Didn't know that, usually just happens on older cars or if you install tube
>headers, they really blast the starter with heat. Can you adapt one of
>those shields to fit. Might be his cure. Thanks.
>Lou
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 10:31:21 EST
From: MFATZII@aol.com
Subject: Re: Couple of Questions (different dude) (fuel?)

thanks for the help, the carb is a 1956 4gc Rochester and I do have the filter
before the fuelpump (opposite your advice) in hopes of maybe prolonging the
life of the pump but I will flip it around anyway.  Also I think I'll buy a
pressure guage today.....

Ryan

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 10:55:42 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Olds convertible(s) in "Practical Magic"

Well folks, the lady and I had a night off last night. Took in a good meal
at the local Japanese steak house and proceeded to go see a movie.

Worked out that "Practical Magic" was about to start when we got there, gave
them our $12 and went on in. This movie is the one with Sandra Bullock and
she's a witch.

There are several scenes, although most are at night, with a blue out and
white in/top '71 (I think) Cutlass ragtop. Turns out it's the bad guy's car.

There may have been a quick clip or a yellow with white top Cutlass
convertible at the first of the movie, although I'm not sure as I was
distracted by Ms. Bullock at the time :-). When I watch any of her movies,
it takes me a while to be able to see anything other than her in the movie
for a while.

Altogether a good movie. Especially one to take the significant other to. We
enjoyed it immensely.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 10:13:26 -0600
From: Dan Williams <442much@plutonium.net>
Subject: Help - rear end color question?

I'm still looking for the answer about the correct color of the rear end
in my 68 442.
I always assumed it was Semi or Gloss black for the rear diff and
axles.  However, I have seen several painted natural.  I looked at an
article in MCR by Jeff Lilly (June/July 97), about detailing a 67 442
chassis, and the rear end is painted cast blast, with the axle housings
being bare steel.  The article also mentions Curt Anderson as a National

authority on 67 442s who aided in the resto.  According to How to
Restore Your Muscle Car it lists gloss black as the correct color for
the differential and Natural for the axles.  Both these sources are very

respected people in the field.

From what I can tell, I belive that the the axles should be natural and
the pumpkin
should be cast.  I also assume the sway bare is natural.  Is this
correct?


- --
Dan Williams                            442Much@plutonium.net
Marion, IA                                     68 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 11:12:43 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: W-30 intake

Here, here!  Well put Igor.  I can't think of a bigger waste of money than
an aluminum intake just for the material.  I put an Edelbrock performer on
my '63 Chevy for performance, looks and lower weight.  Looked good but
noticed no performance gain and weight was neglegible.  I did however
eventually purchase a Victor Jr. with a Competition K Cam kit.  This intake
was great for about 350 horses on my 327 and well worth it with killer
looks.  I have thought about a Performer RPM  for the Olds but can't really
justify the expense.  The W-30 intake for $850 is an awful lot of money for
something that was not originally on your car.  It would look impressive on
your motor but $850 can go a long way for other things your car might need.
Igor,
    I am looking for a good cam for my 455 when I rebuild it.  I too was
looking at a 272 advertised duration cam but have even considered a 292 with
close to stock valve lift and performance torque converter.  Have you
ordered your new cam yet?

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
>
>Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 09:28:10 -0700
>From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
>Subject: Re: W-30 intake
>
>I think that the cast and alum. intakes of that vintage had no difference
>but the material they were made off.  Unless you absolutely need one for
>correct resto., get a Edelbrock.
>
>Igor

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 11:26:51 -0500
From: Brian Kerr <bkerr@golden.net>
Subject: Re: replacing brake hose

Sounds like it might be time for a new line and hose,because chances are the
brake line is going to twist or break if its that rusty. I would soak it with
rust buster,liquid wrench, or your potion of choice and if necessary use the
trusty vice grippers on it, but better get ready to bend up some new brake
lines!

Brian Kerr
69 Cutlass conv

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 12:13:07 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: H/O on MCC

http://myclassiccar.com/fungames/gallery/gallery.shtml

Must vote for '69 H/O.
Mmmmmmm.....

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***************************
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 V-8 4 bbl)
1975 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (250 I-6 1 bbl)
1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (350 V-8 2 bbl)
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4 bbl)
*******************************************
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 12:14:36 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Disregard last post

Sorry, thought MCC still had that contest going. This was the first time
I'd been there in months.
- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***************************
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 V-8 4 bbl)
1975 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (250 I-6 1 bbl)
1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (350 V-8 2 bbl)
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4 bbl)
*******************************************
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 12:19:44 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: US Postal Money Orders

For the most part they are Greg.
But the US postal money orders have in small printing "Cashable in US and
possessions"
The banks around here don't seem to want to be a possession
They recommend international US postal money orders.
As far as regular US bank money orders, they work great.
But then I take personal checks anyways. --- We are all friends here,
right.  Never had a problem never will.   That's the great thing about this
list, FANTASTIC people.  Really changed my mind that all people in the
world a underhanded.

Robert Schinkel
docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls, Canada
905-357-4454


- ----------
> From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
 
> Wonder why the banks won't take a US postal M.O. anymore?
> 
> Anyway, FWIW, I have never had a problem cashing a US cheque from a
> personal account at a bank up here. The US $ is pretty universal.
> 
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 12:41:38 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Ga VS J heads

> From: Igor T. '81 DRB 455 <igor455@home.com>
 
> How much if any are the Ga heads better then Js.  I just got a '72 455
with
> the Ga heads, and wonder how much better these are then the Js.  Thanks a
> lot.
> 
> Igor Todorovic
> 
> 1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)

Igor.

In most cases there is no real difference between the two heads.
They both have hardened valve seats, so it OK to run unleaded gas.
Your GA's might have larger valves or you might find a set a J's that are
larger.
But there really is no considerable difference.
I ran GA's on my Conv. for the first three years of it life.  Then switched
to a set of J's that had some minor work done.  The change picked up .025
of my 1/4 mile times.
The only reason I changed was a bad valve guide in the GA's and I had the
J's.
If you already have the GA's and they are decent shape, stick with them. 
Some minor head work on your GA's will give you enough extra for most
street bashes or strip runs.
And the money you save buying another set of head will pay for the work on
yours.

My rag top runs 13.4 at 99.5 with just a little more then a stock motor and
a decent gear.
This summer I hope to get into the 12's with some suspension work and a
better fuel delivery system.

I hope this help Igor.

Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454







 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 11:33:36 -0600
From: Steve Reed <ssreed@ibm.net>
Subject: M22 & M21 Transmission Differences (Input Shaft Only)

Hey all,
	Dave Wyatt and I had a topic going a little while back concerning the
differences between the M21 & M22 Input shafts.  I was finally able to
dedicate some time (seeing as how I got laid off 3 weeks ago, Arrgh!) to
cleaning out the shed where both of my transmissions are.  After careful
inspection of the two trannies there were noticeable differences in the
input shaft length as I thought.  The breakdown is as follows:

M22 - 26 Spline Input Shaft
	6.5625 Total Input Shaft Length 		(From bellhousing 
mating surface)
	5.375	Length of Splines 		(From bellhousing 
mating surface)
	1.075	Length of tip which rests inside pilot bushing
		

M21	10 Spline Input Shaft
	6.250	Total Input Shaft Length 	(From bellhousing mating 
surface)
	5.625	Length of Splines		(From bellhousing mating 
surface)
	 .625	Length of tip which rests inside pilot bushing

Well that's the info.  As I thought the M22 is definitely a longer shaft,
therefore requiring a deeper pilot hole in the crankshaft.  This would
definitely account for me being able to use my M21, but not the M22 with
this particular crank.

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 14:25:17 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Rear End Color

Can't use the "h*lp" wprd... forwarding.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Dan Williams <442much@plutonium.net>
Subject: H*lp - rear end color question?

I'm still looking for the answer about the correct color of the rear end
in my 68 442.
I always assumed it was Semi or Gloss black for the rear diff and
axles.  However, I have seen several painted natural.  I looked at an
article in MCR by Jeff Lilly (June/July 97), about detailing a 67 442
chassis, and the rear end is painted cast blast, with the axle housings
being bare steel.  The article also mentions Curt Anderson as a National

authority on 67 442s who aided in the resto.  According to How to
Restore Your Muscle Car it lists gloss black as the correct color for
the differential and Natural for the axles.  Both these sources are very

respected people in the field.

>From what I can tell, I belive that the the axles should be natural and
the pumpkin
should be cast.  I also assume the sway bare is natural.  Is this
correct?


- --
Dan Williams                            442Much@plutonium.net
Marion, IA                                     68 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 11:57:20 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Ga VS J heads

What kind of gear and cam do you run?

- -----Original Message-----
From: Robert Schinkel <docbob@caninet.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: November 15, 1998 10:37 AM
Subject: Re: Ga VS J heads


>> From: Igor T. '81 DRB 455 <igor455@home.com>
>
>> How much if any are the Ga heads better then Js.  I just got a '72 455
>with
>> the Ga heads, and wonder how much better these are then the Js.  Thanks a
>> lot.
>>
>> Igor Todorovic
>>
>> 1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
>
>Igor.
>
>In most cases there is no real difference between the two heads.
>They both have hardened valve seats, so it OK to run unleaded gas.
>Your GA's might have larger valves or you might find a set a J's that are
>larger.
>But there really is no considerable difference.
>I ran GA's on my Conv. for the first three years of it life.  Then switched
>to a set of J's that had some minor work done.  The change picked up .025
>of my 1/4 mile times.
>The only reason I changed was a bad valve guide in the GA's and I had the
>J's.
>If you already have the GA's and they are decent shape, stick with them.
>Some minor head work on your GA's will give you enough extra for most
>street bashes or strip runs.
>And the money you save buying another set of head will pay for the work on
>yours.
>
>My rag top runs 13.4 at 99.5 with just a little more then a stock motor and
>a decent gear.
>This summer I hope to get into the 12's with some suspension work and a
>better fuel delivery system.
>
>I hope this help Igor.
>
>Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
>Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 14:29:36 EST
From: DUKEOLDS@aol.com
Subject: '80 Cutlass w/ a 268 engine?

I have a chance to buy a 1980 Cutlass crown Royal fro $2000.  I never heard of
this car before.  It has buckets and a console.  It also has a wide stainless
steel trim piece going over the roof.  The guy selling it told me it had an
experimental engine that olds was trying out that year, a 268 v8.  Anyone ever
heard anything about this car or engine?  I can't find any info on it in any
of my book.  Help would be appreciated.  Thanks.

Duke 
'73 Cutlass Supreme
'87 442

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 11:43:09 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: '80 Cutlass w/ a 268 engine?

At 02:29 PM 11/15/98 -0500, you wrote:
>I have a chance to buy a 1980 Cutlass crown Royal fro $2000.  I never
heard of
>this car before.  It has buckets and a console.  It also has a wide stainless
>steel trim piece going over the roof.  The guy selling it told me it had an
>experimental engine that olds was trying out that year, a 268 v8.  Anyone
ever
>heard anything about this car or engine?  

I havn't heard of a 268. My first guess is that it has the standard 260cid V8.
I can't imagine GM adding 8 cid to the 260 when that was also the first year 
of the 307.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 12:00:55 -0800 (PST)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: '80 Cutlass w/ a 268 engine?

- ---Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net> wrote:
>
> At 02:29 PM 11/15/98 -0500, you wrote:
> >I have a chance to buy a 1980 Cutlass crown Royal fro $2000.  I never
> heard of
> >this car before.  It has buckets and a console.  It also has a wide
stainless
> >steel trim piece going over the roof.  The guy selling it told me
it had an
> >experimental engine that olds was trying out that year, a 268 v8. 
Anyone
> ever
> >heard anything about this car or engine?  
> 
> I havn't heard of a 268. My first guess is that it has the standard
260cid V8.
> I can't imagine GM adding 8 cid to the 260 when that was also the
first year 
> of the 307.

- -----a thought....don't know if you actually talked to the guy or not,
but if it was an ad,you know how some of these people who set-up or
take the ad in tend to missunderstand or misquote....maybe it was
supposed to be 260 V-8.....or maybe the guy just doesn't know any
better...and you know, those experimental engines are rare, and tend
to make the car worth more <g>
just a thought, but if it is something special, keep us updated:)
             Later,
> 
> 

==
John McJunkin ( The Sman ) mailto:super442@yahoo.com  
  ICQ # 16956740      Lithia Springs, Ga.
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442 
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts    
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 15:32:14 EST
From: MNManiac@aol.com
Subject: Re: '80 Cutlass w/ a 268 engine?

I've never heard of a Cutlass Crown Royal or a 268CID engine.  But I HAVE seen
a rare Cutlass model from this era with a large stainless steel bar going
across the roof.  I believe it was called the "Cutlass Xtreme."

- -Drew in Windy Western Kansas-

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 15:21:16 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: M22 & M21 Transmission Differences (Input Shaft Only)

<snip detailed listing of differences>

Steve, that's good data, but I caution everyone about drawing conclusions
based on a sample size of one.  This is particularly true with old
musclecar parts, as unless you know the history of the item from date of
delivery, you really don't know what's been done to it.  Keep in mind that
a lot can (and did) happen in the 30+ years since the hardware has been
built.  Similarly, I'd view with skepticism any claim to know definitively
the paint finish (for example) used on a particular component based on
looking at only one car, unless that car had bulletproof documentation of
it being a completely unmolested factory-assembled vehicle.  Even then,
we've seen time and again where the good folks on the assembly line may
have put one together, ah, shall we say, not quite to spec.  I'm certainly
not trying to discredit anyone's experience, just keep asking yourself
whether or not you have a statisically valid sample.

On a related note, the same should apply to "my cousin's girlfriend's
father used an XYZ widget on his Olds and it sucks..." type of stories.  I
have a hard time drawing a conclusion from this without knowing if the item
was installed and used correctly.  While the experience is valuable, the
circumstances need to be detailed as well.

<rant mode off>

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 16:12:58 -0500
From: "William J. Reilly Jr." <104051.2343@compuserve.com>
Subject: crossmember question

hey gang,

I've been off the list for a couple of months due to not having a computer
or internet service available to me.  I've been trying to complete my
project before it gets too cold and starts snowing. For those who don't
remember or don't know, I dropped a 455 into an '85 Cutlass.  I also
upgraded to a 200-4r tranny from a 200c.  

My problem is that I thought the tranny crossmember from the 200c was
supposed to work with the 2004r as well, and I'm having trouble getting it
to fit.  I know several people have done this kind of swap before and I was
hoping if anyone could tell me if I need a different crossmember or if I
need to "modify" my existing one a little.  I greatly appreciate any
assistance on this matter.  

I'm currently not on the list and I'm borowing my fathers e-mail so if you
could respond directly to this e-mai addressl I would appreciate it. 
104051.2343@compuserve.com

Thanks again,

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'83 Cutlass Ciera

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 16:38:41 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: '80 Cutlass w/ a 268 engine?

In a message dated 11/15/98 2:34:05 PM Eastern Standard Time, DUKEOLDS@aol.com
writes:

<< The guy selling it told me it had an
 experimental engine that olds was trying out that year, a 268 v8. >>

Heh, sorta reminds me of the guy a couple of days ago telling me about the '75
442 he once had.  im sitting there in my dads '67 442 and he comes up to the
car telling me about his old 442.  "boy that was one fast car.....  nuthin
could touch it....... had a rare 401 engine in it."  i said, "a 401?  you must
mean a 403."  he replied, "no, it was a 401.  i know because i had to buy a
crank for it and the only one that would fit was one for a 401."  "wow, i
didnt know oldsmobile made a 401", i told him just to get him to go away.
then his buddy starts telling me how olds really did make a high perf 401 that
year.  geez, what do i look like, an ideot???  im sitting in a totally
restored  oldsmobile and he thinks i dont know what im talking about?  oh
well....  go figuere.
jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 16:50:34 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: M22 & M21 Transmission Differences (Input Shaft Only)

In a message dated 11/15/98 9:37:17 AM Pacific Standard Time, ssreed@ibm.net
writes:

<< M22 - 26 Spline Input Shaft
 	6.5625 Total Input Shaft Length 		(From bellhousing 
mating surface)
 	5.375	Length of Splines 		(From bellhousing 
mating surface)
 	1.075	Length of tip which rests inside pilot bushing
 		
 
 M21	10 Spline Input Shaft
 	6.250	Total Input Shaft Length 	(From bellhousing 
mating surface)
 	5.625	Length of Splines		(From bellhousing 
mating surface)
 	 .625	Length of tip which rests inside pilot bushing
 
 Well that's the info.  As I thought the M22 is definitely a longer shaft,
 therefore requiring a deeper pilot hole in the crankshaft.  This would
 definitely account for me being able to use my M21, but not the M22 with
 this particular crank.
 
 Steve Reed
 '70 4-4-2 Ragtop
 Austin, TX
 
  >>

      I don't think this is the case. (Not to flame) For one, according to
Hollanders they are ALL interchangeable, even as DIRECT replacements.(between
roughly 63-70) They were available, as an example, as the M20 (wide ratio) M21
(close ratio) and M22 (Close ratio, HD "Rock Crusher") on the same year
Corvette. And they are all interchangeable. The listing also shows
interchanges with F-85's, Firebirds, and Buicks. The extension housing WAS
different on some, but that is obviously changeable. I might have to go
measure the lengths on my M-20 now : )  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 16:55:40 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Couple of Questions (different dude) (fuel?)

In a message dated 11/15/98 7:36:21 AM Pacific Standard Time, MFATZII@aol.com
writes:

<< thanks for the help, the carb is a 1956 4gc Rochester and I do have the
filter
 before the fuelpump (opposite your advice) in hopes of maybe prolonging the
 life of the pump but I will flip it around anyway.  Also I think I'll buy a
 pressure guage today.....
 
 Ryan
  >>
Hopefully the problem is that easy to cure Ryan! I believe the reason the Roe
Quadrajet book recommends it after the pump is that the pump will get all the
fuel it needs, and not have to work harder sucking fuel through the filter.
Hope that fixes it! Keep us (or at least me) posted.  Dorian 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 18:06:41 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Crossmember question

Not on the list; respond to 104051.2343@compuserve.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"William J. Reilly Jr." <104051.2343@compuserve.com>
Subject: crossmember question

hey gang,

I've been off the list for a couple of months due to not having a computer
or internet service available to me.  I've been trying to complete my
project before it gets too cold and starts snowing. For those who don't
remember or don't know, I dropped a 455 into an '85 Cutlass.  I also
upgraded to a 200-4r tranny from a 200c.  

My problem is that I thought the tranny crossmember from the 200c was
supposed to work with the 2004r as well, and I'm having trouble getting it
to fit.  I know several people have done this kind of swap before and I was
hoping if anyone could tell me if I need a different crossmember or if I
need to "modify" my existing one a little.  I greatly appreciate any
assistance on this matter.  

I'm currently not on the list and I'm borowing my fathers e-mail so if you
could respond directly to this e-mai addressl I would appreciate it. 
104051.2343@compuserve.com

Thanks again,

Bill Reilly
'85 Cutlass Supreme
'83 Cutlass Ciera

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 18:08:12 -0200
From: BRIAN SHANKLE <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Harry's Pull and Save

This sounds really cool--Harry's U Pull it, that is--I am in Central New
Jersey, and I always go to a place called EZ Pull and Save which is in
New Ringgold--Schuylkill County I believe.  There aren't too awful many
Cutlasses there and I think a great majority of the Caddy's and Delta
88's are diesels, but for the parts you find, you can't beat the price. 
I would like to know more about Harry's, and the directions on how to
get there from Route 1, or I78 or any other main road that may come into
PA from New Jersey.  Also, do they have a reasonable selection of
Cutlass and Delta 88 cars?
Thanks,
Brian
86 Cutlass Supreme Brougham

Ray Costanzo wrote:
> 
> Hi there Olds folks,
> Two questions:
> 1.  I've been spending most of my time with the newly spawned g-body list,
> and I'm just wondering how things are going over here.  Is it all calm and
> cool now?  hope so...
> 
> 2.  Do I remember hearing a lot of talk about q-jets coming standard on
> Oldses, and probably many gm's?  My brother and I are hoping to find one for
> his ScoutII, as they supposedly have a good off-road reputation, and I'm
> just wondering if most Oldses or GM's are likely to have them.  We'll be
> going to Harry's U-Pull-it, the coolest place around!
> 
> Thanks for any input...
> 
> Ray Costanzo
> 87 409 Cutlass
> Bucks County, PA
> costanzo@netcarrier.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 16:01:48 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: next question--brake line

At 03:11 PM 11/15/98 -0800, you wrote:
>hey thanks for the helpful response!  I got that replaced, however I had to
>remove the steel line all the way back across to the junction box thingy
>(tell me what that is called!).  I then cleaned that up and put it back
>after getting the fitting loose.  My next question: do you think I need to
>bleed all 4 brake lines now because I removed so much brake line all the way
>to that thingy?  I bled the wheel I was working on.  Thanks!
> 

It's caled a distribution block, and/or Proportioning valve.
I would at the very least bleed both front brakes and make a 
test run somewhere safe. If it seems fine, don't do the rears.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 19:29:21 -0500
From: "Mark Thurman" <Thurman@kvnet.org>
Subject: Rear axle rebuild - excessive endplay?

To all:

I normally try to take all this stuff in stride BUT this one's got my guts
in a
knot:

I just had my differential (1970 Cutlass, type - 0, 12 bolt cover; 10 bolt -
8.5" r/g) rebuilt by a guy who's SPECIALTY (read: big $$$ - at least to me)
is drive lines (albeit Bu*ck drive lines).  Along with all new bearings,
shims, seals, etc (used the original gears) I had him install new axle
bearings & seals (Federal Mogul A-9 ordered from Supercars) - he was
hesitant about this (said the original bearings were superior to new, but I
had already removed the originals).  Now today I noticed what I feel like is
excessive axle endplay: ~1/16" on each axle.  The chassis manual states that
for 54-86 series Oldsmobiles any endplay over .035" is excessive & must be
corrected - I don't see any such info on the 31-48's.  The installation
instructions with the bearing don't mention final assembly endplay.  Does
anybody know if I really have a problem here?  Realistically I know it'll be
3+ years before this project is rolling (and I'm not even factoring in the
'mightaswells') so I'll need to get with this guy now if this needs fixing,
he seems like a good guy (although not Olds-educated; he said a '68 455
didn't exist)
so I'm trying to resist the urge to call him at home tonight - I know I need
to calm down & get my ducks in a row.

TIA

mt

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 19:35:23 EST
From: GaryDW30@aol.com
Subject: Non-Olds, 4 grins An Office Prayer

Perhaps it was just the mood I've been in lately but I really enjoyed this.
Downloaded from Fred Langa, langalist@egroups.com
A list about Windows

An Office Prayer

Grant me the serenity to accept the things I cannot change, the courage to
change the things I cannot accept, and the wisdom to hide the bodies of those
people I had to kill today because they pissed me off. Also, help me to be
careful of the toes I step on today, as they may be connected to the butt I
have to kiss tomorrow!

I enjoyed it and thought I'd share it.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 19:38:25 EST
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: 455 Lower Radiator hose

	I was putting the lower radiator hose on my Rallye and the hose seemed
awfully loose. Aren't the radiator hoses supposed to fit snugly? This hose is
supposed to be the correct one for a 455, which is what I have. Any comments?
	Also, does anyone know if there is a difference in top plates for the
radiator between a 455 or a 350? I have a 4 core radiator.
Thanks,
Jim McKeague
http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html
70 Rallye 350
70 Cutlass W-31

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 19:45:53 -0800
From: "anna hebrowska" <mixomixo@email.msn.com>
Subject: parts for oldsmobile Delta Royale 1976

I am looking for a source of parts for Delta Royale 1976, possibly NOS.
The most recent problems: the rubber covers on back bumpers are gone,
splash guards are history too. Just do not want the thing to look like it
was
picked up at a junkyard. It seems it reach the age when little things are
starting
to fall off...

TIA
Anna
Delta Royale '76

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 19:58:33 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Ga VS J heads

> From: Igor T. '81 DRB 455 <igor455@home.com>
> 
> What kind of gear and cam do you run?
> 

3.91's and a crane dual pattern cam.  .496 + .512 lift.  308 dur. and a
3000 stall converter
A 800 holley spreadbore, a torker, and mallory unilite ingnition.
I have my car on video pulling the front tires -- ever so slightly, but air
is air.




Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454




- ----------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 20:02:12 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: 455 Lower Radiator hose

> From: DROLDS350@aol.com
> 
> 	I was putting the lower radiator hose on my Rallye and the hose 
seemed
> awfully loose. Aren't the radiator hoses supposed to fit snugly? This
hose is
> supposed to be the correct one for a 455, which is what I have. Any
comments?
> 	Also, does anyone know if there is a difference in top plates for the
> radiator between a 455 or a 350? I have a 4 core radiator.
> Thanks,
> Jim McKeague
> http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html
> 70 Rallye 350
> 70 Cutlass W-31

Well Jim I can't guess the rad hose problem. but the upper rad brackets are
the same part numbers for 350 or 455 cars.  Only difference will be the 4
core larger bracketsfor the rad.

and by the way nice selection of car choices
Sound like my back yard.  Just through in a 70 gold convertible and we
could be twins

later

Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454




- ----------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 20:34:26 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: manual brakes

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_009F_01BE10D7.567D0700
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I just bought a fairly radical cam (234/244 @.050). I'm assuming my =
power brakes will be fairly useless. Will a vacuum cannister and/or =
variable rate lifters remedy this problem? If not, what are my options =
for converting to manual brakes on a 75 Cutlass?

- ------=_NextPart_000_009F_01BE10D7.567D0700
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I just bought a fairly radical cam =
(234/244=20
@.050). I'm assuming my power brakes will be fairly useless. Will a =
vacuum=20
cannister and/or variable rate lifters remedy this problem? If not, what =
are my=20
options for converting to manual brakes on a 75=20
Cutlass?</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_009F_01BE10D7.567D0700--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 20:57:43 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: manual brakes

Edward,
    My '75 has manual brake from the factory.  A little history of the
car - (it was bought new by my father) it has the it's a supreme with no
air, manual brakes, and a 3.23 rear.  Which was normally unavailable
with the supreme w/350 or 455.  But any way, the manual brakes were a
factory option - although not a very popular one!
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a 'glide :-(
'75 Supreme - project car....Grin!
'82 Supreme - SB, 700R4, 3.73's - Grin!
'86 Supreme - V-8 - daily driver...

Edward Binnix wrote:

>  I just bought a fairly radical cam (234/244 @.050). I'm assuming my
> power brakes will be fairly useless. Will a vacuum cannister and/or
> variable rate lifters remedy this problem? If not, what are my options
> for converting to manual brakes on a 75 Cutlass?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 21:00:41 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Ga VS J heads

Robert,
    I'm working at setting up my '69 rag top for the same type of duty - have
you run into any problems with body twist?
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a 'glide :-(
'75 Supreme - project car....
'82 Supreme - SB, 700R4, 3.73's - Grin!
'86 Supreme - V-8 - daily driver...

Robert Schinkel wrote:

> > From: Igor T. '81 DRB 455 <igor455@home.com>
> >
> > What kind of gear and cam do you run?
> >
>
> 3.91's and a crane dual pattern cam.  .496 + .512 lift.  308 dur. and a
> 3000 stall converter
> A 800 holley spreadbore, a torker, and mallory unilite ingnition.
> I have my car on video pulling the front tires -- ever so slightly, but air
> is air.
>
> Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
> Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454
>
> ----------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 21:07:06 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Harry's Pull and Save

Well, i didn't go this weekend, as originally planned.  (I found a Salon to
buy instead, cool!).  I just remember however that it's the Hazleton exit
off of I-81.  It may have been exit number 40, can't remember.  I know it's
right in the vicinity of where (PA)309 intersects with it.  Many Oldses
there, about 200 or so, I'd say.  Mostly FWD's, but a decent number of
Cutlasses.  Most of them had the good stuff stripped already, but i was only
there once and from what I gather they have a decent amount of turnover.
So, it's all about timing.
I've heard of EZ pull, where is that?

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of BRIAN SHANKLE
Sent: Sunday, November 15, 1998 3:08 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Harry's Pull and Save


This sounds really cool--Harry's U Pull it, that is--I am in Central New
Jersey, and I always go to a place called EZ Pull and Save which is in
New Ringgold--Schuylkill County I believe.  There aren't too awful many
Cutlasses there and I think a great majority of the Caddy's and Delta
88's are diesels, but for the parts you find, you can't beat the price.
I would like to know more about Harry's, and the directions on how to
get there from Route 1, or I78 or any other main road that may come into
PA from New Jersey.  Also, do they have a reasonable selection of
Cutlass and Delta 88 cars?
Thanks,
Brian
86 Cutlass Supreme Brougham

Ray Costanzo wrote:
>
> Hi there Olds folks,
> Two questions:
> 1.  I've been spending most of my time with the newly spawned g-body list,
> and I'm just wondering how things are going over here.  Is it all calm and
> cool now?  hope so...
>
> 2.  Do I remember hearing a lot of talk about q-jets coming standard on
> Oldses, and probably many gm's?  My brother and I are hoping to find one
for
> his ScoutII, as they supposedly have a good off-road reputation, and I'm
> just wondering if most Oldses or GM's are likely to have them.  We'll be
> going to Harry's U-Pull-it, the coolest place around!
>
> Thanks for any input...
>
> Ray Costanzo
> 87 409 Cutlass
> Bucks County, PA
> costanzo@netcarrier.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 20:41:44 -0600
From: Tom Gannon <kathygannon@sprintmail.com>
Subject: 1968 OLDS Ninety-Eight   AC/heater control panel

I am looking for a AC/heater control panel and/or a company that sells
reproduction oldsmobile parts.  Can someone please help?
					Thankyou,
					Lindsay Gannon	
				email:  kathygannon@sprintmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 20:26:48 -0600
From: "John Kreitzer" <john.kreitzer@gte.net>
Subject: Re: manual brakes

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I made my own vacuum canister for my 72 H/O with a rather "lumpy" cam. I =
just went to the local boneyard and got a vacuum canister out of a mid =
80's Lincoln Continental (looks similar to a coffee can with a bracket =
attached), I then drilled a hole large enough to accept a rubber grommet =
as used in a power booster assb. and installed a check valve from a =
power booster assb. on one end, and drilled another hole on the other =
end of the canister to accept a brass 3/8" barbed hose fitting. Mount =
the canister where you can, (I chose on top of inner fender so as not to =
be able to see it), run a 3/8" hose from original vacuum source to the =
check valve on the canister, then run a hose from barbed fitting on =
canister to check valve on power booster. Worked great for me, and cost =
about $10 for materials, sure beats the $40 they want for the canister =
alone.=20
My $.02

John
=20
    -----Original Message-----
    From: Edward Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
   =20
   =20
    I just bought a fairly radical cam (234/244 @.050). I'm assuming my =
power brakes will be fairly useless. Will a vacuum cannister and/or =
variable rate lifters remedy this problem? If not, what are my options =
for converting to manual brakes on a 75 Cutlass?

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3510.1400"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I made my own vacuum canister for my =
72 H/O with=20
a rather &quot;lumpy&quot; cam. I just went to the local boneyard and =
got a=20
vacuum canister out of a mid 80's Lincoln Continental (looks similar to =
a coffee=20
can with a bracket attached), I then drilled a hole large enough to =
accept a=20
rubber grommet as used in a power booster assb. and installed a check =
valve from=20
a power booster assb. on one end, and drilled another hole on the other =
end of=20
the canister to accept a brass 3/8&quot; barbed hose fitting. Mount the =
canister=20
where you can, (I chose on top of inner fender so as not to be able to =
see it),=20
run a 3/8&quot; hose from original vacuum source to the check valve on =
the=20
canister, then run a hose from barbed fitting on canister to check valve =
on=20
power booster. Worked great for me, and cost about $10 for materials, =
sure beats=20
the $40 they want for the canister alone.&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>My $.02</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>John</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>Edward Binnix &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:comid@jellico.com">comid@jellico.com</A>&gt;<BR><BR></DIV>=
</FONT>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I just bought a fairly radical =
cam (234/244=20
    @.050). I'm assuming my power brakes will be fairly useless. Will a =
vacuum=20
    cannister and/or variable rate lifters remedy this problem? If not, =
what are=20
    my options for converting to manual brakes on a 75=20
Cutlass?</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 21:27:21 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Killer 442?

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Oh, and how come I'm not on the list anymore? Will someone put me back on it
please! I would love to hear if this "killer 442" was real or not. Please put
me back on the list
Thanks!
Kelly


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From: DonziKel@aol.com
Return-path: <DonziKel@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Killer 442?
Date: Sat, 14 Nov 1998 18:32:06 EST
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My step dad keeps on telling me about a "killer 442" made in 65 66 or 67. It
had a 425 390hp engine, but i dont belive him, does anyone know about this?
thanks
Kelly

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Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 21:28:36 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Harry's Pull and Save

FWIW, There's also a Harry's-U-Pull-It off of rte 61 in Shoemakersville, PA.
I don't know if it's the same Harry or not.
The one on rte 81 is off of exit 40 at Hazleton.

Has anyone in northeastern PA, ever tried the You Pull It type yard by
Scranton. It's like the whole side of a mountain covered in cars. I called
once and they said thay had 10,000 + cars there. I was just curious as I've
never had the time to stop and check them out.

Randy


> I just remember however that it's the Hazleton exit
>off of I-81.  It may have been exit number 40, can't remember.  I know
>it's right in the vicinity of where (PA)309 intersects with it.

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Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 21:56:37 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: '80 Cutlass w/ a 268 engine?

Olds really did make a 401....NOT!

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Date: Sun, 15 Nov 1998 20:00:13 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: wind wing h@lp.

I need some assistance with my wind wings in a 68 442. HOW do you remove
them? I want to clean them up and tint them. I already tinted the rear
quarters in the very beginnings of a long needed fix for my car. IE
paint, fix window seals, fix rust spots and stop the rust...  So, who
can give me instructions on how to remove the wind wings?

thanks, Ben

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1604
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