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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1658


oldsmobile-digest     Thursday, December 10 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1658



Re: 68 taillight styles.
Re: 5.0 Mustang Vs. 455
Re:" country roads"
Conv top patches
Re: anyone have 17'' on a 72 olds yet??
Re: 68 12 bolt
How sad...(was counrty roads)
OLDSMOBILES SUCK
Re: Olds Vrs. 305 Pontiac....
Re: 68 12 bolt
Re: wing/spoiler/make it look better - for convertibles?
Re: "Country Roads" - was re: Olds Vrs.
'60 Super 88 FS
72 Cutlass Supreme
Oldsmobile in the movies. WW and the Dixie Dance Kings?
music system
music system
RE: music system
Re: 68 taillight styles.
Re: music system
68 442 ? -Reply
Re: 68 12 bolt
Re: 72 Cutlass Supreme
olds parts
Re: 68 12 bolt
Re: Subject: Re: Alternator still high
Re: music system
Re: Clean Air Act
RE: music system
RE: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs
Re: 68 12 bolt
Re: " country roads"
Re: wing/spoiler/make it look better
Re: Quadrajets/Holleys/Metering Rods/Fuel Injection/Performance /Fuel 
Economy/Reliability
Re: Olds stereo
bad day/hubs,studs and lug nuts
Re: In need of:
Re: olds parts
Re: wing/spoiler/make it look better
another heating ? /sorry guys
Re: bad day/hubs,studs and lug nuts
Re: welding exhaust divider/milling exhausts
Re: How sad...(was counrty roads)
Re: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs
Re: In need of:
Re: bad day/hubs,studs and lug nuts
Re: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs
Re: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs
Re: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs
EGR and 455s
Re: bad day/hubs,studs and lug nuts
Re: bad day/hubs,studs and lug nuts
Re: "Country Roads" - was re: Olds Vrs. 305 Pontiac
Re: 72 Cutlass Supreme
Video Clips at 442.com
Re: another heating ? /sorry guys
Re: Conv top patches
dash accents
RE: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs
Re: How sad...(was counrty roads)
RE: Conv top patches
Heater controls
Re: Conv top patches

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 15:45:00 EST
From: JDess@aol.com
Subject: Re: 68 taillight styles.

  Hi George,
  My 68 taillight lenses have 2 chrome rings, one around each half of the
light and not much internal structure.
  Hope this helps, email if you need more info.
  Joe Dessel
   jdess@aol.com 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 13:49:56 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 5.0 Mustang Vs. 455

><< I once raced a T-bird (early 90s), he got my by 1.5
> car-lengths off the line cause the friggin car would not hook at even 1/2.
> The T-bird spun the tires as well but still had way more traction. >>



>   Dont feel bad! My wife drives a '93 Thunderbird SuperCoupe(supercharged
3.8
>v-6), and it will eat a lot of cars' lunches.

I don't feel bad.  I got him quickly after the car hooked up.  I am pretty
sure it was a SC because it was white and had the ground effects and wheels.
That particular intersection has serious slick pavement.  Even at a light
hit on the throttle it spins.  I tired not to spin so that I can get moving
and then hit it.  I started with very light throttle and it did not spin,
however less then 1/2 in the intersection I floored it and all hell broke
loose.  If traction permitted, my car would have major advantage over all
those cars off the line.  My friends GMC pickup has a 300 HP 350 (on the
Dyno) with headers, intake, holly, K&N and all that.  He runs a TH350 and
3.73 rear.  His cam gives him great top end and decent bottom end and good
idle.  Racing (In the country again) where the pavement is rough I spun the
tires (he did a bit as well) but I still jumped 1 car-length ahead right
away.  By 80 MPH I was 3 to 4 cars in front of him.  Point is that even with
only partial traction the car jumps.  I think that what I should try to do
is find a decent compromise between handling and traction and get better
rear tires.  Also, retard the cam 4 deg. (for more top/less bottom end) and
figure out a way to launch hard, including bringing my converter to stall
speed.  Then, stop light jumps would be my territory.  If I could leave them
at the start, no way will they catch me by the time we stop.  1/4 mile +
depends on many factors, but quick off-the-line is the most important for a
city cruiser.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23 posi)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 12:51:52 PST
From: "Ryan D" <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:" country roads"

hey all,i know what you meen ,this guy i know got killd lastweek
he was doing at lest 105 in his 97 jeep on a back road and a guy 
backt out of his driveway and boom flipt 4 and a 1/2 times.
the sad thing is it probbely wont stop me or my frends from racing on 
back roads.you just don't learn till its to late.


><snip> 95% of the time me and my friends (and even sometimes people we 
meet
>at the light) go out into the country.  <snip>  At night it is almost
>deserted.  There is lots of room and the limit is 75 mph.  We race to 
85 or
>90 but that is it.  <snip>  The best is to go into the country. <snip> 
>


  My  -------   -------
            /  |
           /   |
          /     ------
         /            |
        /             |
       /        ------    DELTA 88
Ryan D Beck
           Riviera72sss@hotmail.com


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 15:04:09 -0600 (CST)
From: Donald B Cart <dcart@micro.ti.com>
Subject: Conv top patches

 I noticed a 70 442 Conv the other day with a patch on
the top. I guess to cover up/protect rips in the top.
I've thought about having this done, to delay replacing
my top, which has an approx 6" rip.

 Any thoughts/experiences on this ?

Don
72 Cutlass Conv
91 Calais I-Series

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 13:04:53 -0800
From: "Corey Day" <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: anyone have 17'' on a 72 olds yet??

I have heard of someone running 305/50/15's in the rear on a 68-72 Cutlass.
Has anyone determined the correct backspacing for this to fit without
protruding from the fenderwells?

Corey Day
dayc@ix.netcom.com
www.netcom.com/~dayc/
1970 Cutlass S - 455
- -----Original Message-----
From: mbloomer <mbloomer@gateway.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, December 09, 1998 3:06 PM
Subject: Re: anyone have 17'' on a 72 olds yet??


>Ran 295/50/15's with 15x7 83 monte carlo steel rims with no problem
>except that the center of the tire would wear out first cuz your supposed
>to mount these tires on a 8" rim min.  A set of 10.5" slicks on ch*vy rally
>rims fit perfect with room to spare.  From my measurement I could fit
>'vette 315's on the back with the right rims.  The 295's fit with stock
>wheel-
>wells and about 1/2 to 1" of the tire above the top of the wheelwell.  One
>thing you have to make sure of is that if you don't have good (read poly)
>bushings in the rear control arms the rearend will shift up to 1" when
>cornering.  I know this cuz you could see where the 295's had contacted
>the inside of the wheelwell with the back of the tire.  Didn't hurt
anything
>but on the drivers side it was enough to bent the lip up where the body and
>frame come together.  To really stuff the wheelwells I considered adding a
>panhard bar to make sure the rearend didn't shift at all.  BTW did mock
>up the 315's in the wheelwells and they cleared everything but couldn't
bolt
>them on since they were on the 'vette rims.
>
>Mike B
>mbloomer@gateway.net
>ICQ# 19113713
>72 Cutlass S (RIP)
>68 Cutlass Supreme
>
>>im looking to do this upgrade on mine. I want the widest tires i can fit
>front
>>and back. I am currently running 275/60/15 on the rear which is a big tire
>w/
>>no problems. And i have alot of space from the inside wall to the frame,
so
>i
>>was thinking of changing the offset of the rim and go w/ 10'' wide rear
>rims.
>>Thanks for any input by the way the car is lowered and everything must fit
>>under wheel wells.
>>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 13:18:13 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: 68 12 bolt

> mbloomer wrote:
> 
> OK so from the FAQ and some threads on the list I
> gather that the Olds 12 bolt you can't get aftermarket
> parts for (posi's etc.) and doesn't interchange internally
> with the ch*vy 12 bolt.  Am I right?  Saw an add on
> 442.com for a 68 12 bolt with 10 bolt internals which
> they said was very rare and a 68 only thing.  Has
> anyone ever heard of this?  How can you identify one
> of these.  My 68 has a 12 bolt, open carrier w/2.73's
> which I want to upgrade and was basically planning
> on just getting a whole new axle but does anyone
> know of a source for parts like posi and gears that will
> bolt in or can be modified to fit.  Don't want to hassle
> with rare, expensive parts ... budget ya know.  As far
> as swapping in a ch*vy rearend, I would assume the
> yoke would be the same but does anyone know for
> sure?
> 
> TIA
> Mike B



Mike,
About the only things that will interchange
between the O and C axles are the cover bolts
and axle studs.  Other than that, they are
completely different.  There are also MANY
differences between the 1967-1970 O axles. 
And many components cannot be interchanged.
All 12 bolt (housing) O axles use 10 bolts
for ring gear to carrier attachment.
For the sake of bandwidth, the following 
applies ONLY to the 12 bolt performance series 
O axles with Anti-Spin.  The performance series 
O axles are ratios of 3.42, 3.91, 4.33, 4.66 and
5.00.  The ring and pinion of these ratios
can be interchanged with any of the 67-70 
performance series carriers.  As a side
note, I have encountered ring gears of
these ratios with either right hand 
threads and others with left hand threads
even though they share the same part number.  
(This should be kept in mind when disassembling
these units).  The 1967 and 1968 models use
31 spline axles with a sealed ball bearing.
In 1969, the axle spline was changed to 28.
1969 axles use a sealed axle bearing.  1970
axles are 28 spline but the bearing was changed
to an open roller design that received its   
lubrication from the gear oil.  The 67 and 68
carriers feature larger carrier bearings   
than the 69 and 70 models.  This means the
housings are also different.  67 and 68
housings will accept 67-68 carriers only.
The carrier for the 1969 and 1970 models will
fit only a 69-70 housing.  However, due to 
the axle bearing change, 69 housings will 
only accept 69 axles.  And 70 housings will
only accept 70 axles.  Of course
the side gears are different depending on
the axle spline.  The clutch packs, clutch
shims and the spring will fit all of the 
67-70 carriers.  As you can see there are
many variations of the performance series 
12 bolt O axle.
(And I haven't even covered the 2.56-2.78
and 3.08-3.23 differences).      

I probably could babble
on here, but to answer your question,
due to the limited use of some of these
components, many must be located used.
And some are getting expensive.
For your use/application, the C type
might be your best bet.  Since Oldsmobiles
use larger U-joints than the Chevys, 
the companion flange is different.     


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249

Web site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 16:34:04 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: How sad...(was counrty roads)

Ryan.......................
   It's really cool when you're young and racing on
 the highways, country or whereever, but sit down
 a minute and think of just how dangerous this can be to
 your health and OTHERS...!! It's your option if you want
 to grow older and wiser or die young and foolish, but don't
 take out some unsuspecting passerby in the process of
 you and your friends racing on the highways..!!  By the way,
 while pondering what I have just written, how about learning
 to use your spell checker before writing your next post...!!

Old and loving every minute..
Mike...............
'86 442
'86 Supreme
'71 Monte

From:          "Ryan D" <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>

hey all,i know what you meen ,this guy i know got killd lastweek
he was doing at lest 105 in his 97 jeep on a back road and a guy 
backt out of his driveway and boom flipt 4 and a 1/2 times.
the sad thing is it probbely wont stop me or my frends from racing on 
back roads.you just don't learn till its to late.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 13:33:16 PST
From: "chris brown" <cbrown6@hotmail.com>
Subject: OLDSMOBILES SUCK

CHEVELLES RULE!!!!!! ANYONE ELSE WHO DON'T THINK SO CAN KISS MY ASS!!!

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 14:02:13 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Vrs. 305 Pontiac....

Here in Calgary, Alberta the cops are very against street racing of any kind
(they are right). I got pulled over for stunting for BARLEY turning the
tires.  Recently, me and my friend were driving home from school when a '80s
Trans Am and a mid '80s Corvette (both Red, BOTH DRIVEN BY GIRLS) met at the
light.  About 1/4 mile later there was a cross-walk (marked with lights).  A
junior-high kid on a bike decided to just shoot across the road.  The two
cars saw the kid way before he even got close to the road.  I say they were
doing about 85 mph + when the brakes lit up.  The Vette stopped but the TA
did not in time.  The kid made it across most of the double lane/divided
road when the TA clipped him.  The kid lived (cause the TA was almost
stopped) but the girl driving was horrified. (she deserved it I guess).  If
they were not racing, the accident MAY not have happened.  However, also on
the kids part, it is stupid to just come out of nowhere and shoot across the
road at full speed in rush hour traffic.  I have all the sympathy for the
kid but I would also have to say that he got what he deserved as well.  I
saw the whole thing and was horrified but also realized that even if the two
cars were not racing, the kid may have been hit as well.  By the way, the
Vette was winning and as a result, she saw the kid first and hit the brakes
fist.  If the kid was 1/2 millisecond slower, the Vette would have hit him,
not the TA.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 11:42:09 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 68 12 bolt

So a 69 'O' type will be hard to find different gears and a posi unit
for? I believe (if memory recalls. Been a few months since I had
looked) that my rearend is a 'O' on my 69 Cutlass. Am I going to have
to look at getting a different rearend or can I still get gears?
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 16:54:30 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: wing/spoiler/make it look better - for convertibles?

> Can't speak to the GTO wing, but the 69 H/O wing is the same as the 70-72
> wing as far as the shape and rake.  Don't know if the pedestals were
> reworked by Hurst on the two (really three) converts or not.  Mike Rothe?

What?....yes, all convert pedastals were reworked due to the rise/run of
the trunklid.  The converts are flatter, so the same rake used on a
convertible would send the front of the spoiler way down.  Easy mod
though, by an experienced fiberglass man. No gasket was used, just some
goo sealer.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 14:59:00 -0700
From: "Simpson, Cliff" <CSIMPSON@msm-fhh.fhh.crha-health.ab.ca>
Subject: Re: "Country Roads" - was re: Olds Vrs.

Igor you have gone down to "b*llsh*t corner" and found out where they   
race haven't you?  If not why don't you go down when your car gets out of   
the shop?  You could watch some racing the first night and then see   
what's out there.  I haven't been down for years but there used to be   
guys running everything from a blown Hemi to stock 5.0L Rustang.

My understanding is that they find a empty road and post people around to   
watch for cops, cars, and such.  Oldsmobile content: you may run into   
someone else with an Olds but not me (until I get the 455 done:).

 ---
Cliff
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)  

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 16:50:10 EST
From: Ralllye350@aol.com
Subject: '60 Super 88 FS

1960 Oldsmobile Super 88 For Sale
394 V-8, 4 barrel Carb, Jetaway Automatic
White with 3 Tone interior, 
Original and always a California Car (so it ain't rusty)
Runs great and its currently registered and insured
Needs restoration $1500.00
E-mail if your curious, but call if your serious!
(510) 794-8298 Located in Northern California

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 17:14:20 EST
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: 72 Cutlass Supreme

Could someone please tell me the horsepower rating on a '72 Cutlass Supreme w/
a 4 bbl? 
Thanks,
Jim McKeague

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 16:39:58 -0600
From: cdemps@lsumc.edu (Dempsey, Charles)
Subject: Oldsmobile in the movies. WW and the Dixie Dance Kings?

Hi,

This "Olds-in-the-movies" thread has brought up an old query of mine.

Years ago on late night TV I saw "WW and the Dixie Dance Kings" (1975,
Bert Reynolds, directed by John G. Avildsen). As best I can remember it
was about a small time con (Bert) who had a gang of female singers, and
drove a '55 Olds Holiday (Super 88?) coupe. The Sheriff was after Bert,
but he wanted the car as much as the man. At one point in the movie this
sheriff says that there were only 55 of the cars made! This always
confused me.

Does anybody have this movie or remember it well? What made this '55
Olds so special? I have just finished a net search which produced only
three hits on this topic. The movie does not appear to be in print.



Thanks,
Charles (who's having a slow day :-)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 17:45:03 -0500 (EST)
From: luckyducks@webtv.net (cathleen Mueller)
Subject: music system

please tell me how to prgram the clock on my delso radio. It is a 1988
oldsmobile cutlas supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 17:54:15 -0500 (EST)
From: luckyducks@webtv.net (cathleen Mueller)
Subject: music system

please help me program my 1988 olds cutlass supreme delco  music sytem
clock
thanks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 18:00:13 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: music system

By pulling out the Seek and Scan buttons I believe. One changes hours, the
other minutes...

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
ICQ# 5209322
mailto:gjcouse@CC-IROC-SS.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
Send Project Questions To:
mailto:info@CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit < G.J.C > at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of cathleen Mueller
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 1998 5:54 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: music system


please help me program my 1988 olds cutlass supreme delco  music sytem
clock
thanks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 19:01:45 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 68 taillight styles.

On Thu, 10 Dec 1998, George wrote:
> like this [_____] and one without chrome more shaped like this [__|__].
> The second one has more of an internal structure to the plastic.

Mine are like your second drawing, except that they have plastic chrome
where the lines are. I've seen the first style too but can't recall on
which model.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 15:04:11 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: music system

> please tell me how to prgram the clock on my delso radio. It is a
> 1988 oldsmobile cutlas supreme

Just as a guess... Turn radio off so clock time is showing, 
then press Set button... then Seek advances the hours and
Scan advances the minutes... How am I doing so far?

If it seems to actually work, pressing Set once again should
lock in the new time.

- -- Andy


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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 15:06:41 -0800
From: Roy Rutz <ROYR@cdpr.ca.gov>
Subject: 68 442 ? -Reply

THAT'S EXACTLY WHAT THE SELLER SAID ABOUT MY 67 CUTLASS. 
DOES IT HAVE REAL 442 BADGES?  MY 67 DIDN'T.  THAT ENGINE
OPTION WAS CALLED THE TURNPIKE CRUISER IN 67 AND WAS RATED
AT 300 HP.  I CAN'T REMEMBER THE TORQUE OFF HAND.

I EXPRESSED SOME DOUBT WHEN I SAW IT AND HE IMMEDIATELY GOT
OUT THE ORIGIONAL OWNER'S MANUAL AND SHOWED ME.  REALY
DIDN'T SAY MUCH BUT PROVED HIS POINT.

I DON'T KNOW IF THEY CARRIED THIS ENGINE OVER INTO 68 BUT
ABOUT THAT TIME THE INSURANCE INDUSTRY WAS RAISING CAIN AND
RATES ON MUSCLE CARS SO MAYBE THIS WAS AN ATTEMPT AT
MAKING A "STEALTH 442"
ROYR

>>> Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com> 12/10/98 11:04am >>>
Hey everyone
I know of a '68 '442' for sale near my hometown. It needs restored. The
guy
says it's an original 442 with a 400/2bbl, automatic on column, bench
seat,
rearend unknown. It's (I think) white/white. Did they make a 442 with a
2bbl?? doesn't one of the 4's in 442 stand for 4bbl? The guy claims to
have
documentation. He says it runs good. Asking $1500. Is this a cutlass. Is it
worth it.
By the way, How are the 400's on power. Are they very strong? I've
never
had the opertunity to ride in one.

Ed
The Omega Man

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 14:55:06 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: 68 12 bolt

Brent Pinkstaff wrote:
> 
> All of the 'O' type 12 bolt rears ('67-'70) have ten bolt carriers. The
> "'68 only" refers to the number of splines on the axles. They have more
> splines and are a little stonger for it.
> 
> Ch*vy 12 bolt stuff will not work.
> 
> Brent Pinkstaff


The 1967 and 1968 Performance series O axles 
use the same 31 spline axle shaft.  Although
under most circumstances, the more splines,
the stronger the axle.  The 1967-1968 shaft is 
visibly thicker than the 1969 and 1970 versions 
which would also indicate a stronger shaft.  
However, in 1969 when the spline was changed 
to 28, the metallurgy was improved.  Which 
resulted in a stronger axle shaft.  The 1970
axles (also 28 spline) were further improved        
and were the strongest of the lot.  Although
I can personally attest, the 70 axles can be
broken :-O

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Web site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 18:11:43 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 72 Cutlass Supreme

>Could someone please tell me the horsepower rating on a '72 >Cutlass
Supreme w/a 4 bbl?


That's a 350, right.  180hp@4000rpm single exhaust or 200hp @ 4400 with dual
exhaust. Info from Chilton's

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 18:17:21 -0500
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: olds parts

I have a couple pairs of heads C and E for sale also a new stick
flywheel and used bell housing for olds  The E heads are big valve ,
does not have harden seats The C have harden seats stainless valves
ported and exhaust center welded up with roller tip rockers and are big
valve car ran 12.20s with these heads. also have a 12 bolt chev posi
carrier . 100 for E    450 for C   125 for fly and bell and 175 for
carrier I am bringing these to the B O P race in orlando saturday if
want to see,   Butch  68 442 post

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 18:22:57 -0500 (EST)
From: luckyducks@webtv.net (cathleen Mueller)
Subject: Re: 68 12 bolt

thankyou for iformation, but I all I wanted to know was how to correct
the time of my stero thanks 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 17:26:30 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Subject: Re: Alternator still high

Don't you guys burn out a lot of bulbs?
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net


 
> >I wouldn't worry about a 17 volt reading if it is consistent.
 
> Believe me, have checked it repeatedly with my equipment & more than one 
> garage's.

> I have had no electrical sys prob's in ten years.  (Which was my point to

> Chris.)
> 
> roger hitson
> >E. Wayne Drusch
> >71 Cutlass Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 18:27:46 -0500 (EST)
From: luckyducks@webtv.net (cathleen Mueller)
Subject: Re: music system

thanks andy your the man, it worked thankyou, but now I ave no excuse
for being late., by three hours and fifteen minuets thanks again.,
           on time in fla

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 18:28:50 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: Clean Air Act

New Jersey does this same kind of crap.  Instead of paying any attention
to the factories, trucks, buses, and nuclear wastes that cause
pollution, they go after people who may happen to drive older cars.  I
admit, there are some pretty irresponsible people who would just as soon
let their cars burn 2+ qts a day of oil than have them fixed or junked. 
These cars should be the ones to suffer the fate of emissions standards,
not those who may run a little rich because of a bad set of plugs.  I
may get flamed for this, but I will ALWAYS be against emissions testing
and any state that requires it--especially New Jersey. 

R. Grant wrote:
> 
> I just thought that I would let you Know what is happing in the Greater
> Toronto Area Starting in Jan 99.
> The Provincial Government is making it mandatory that all cars 4 years old
> to 19 years old have to pass emission testing, every two years and that no
> car can be sold without passing.
> It looks like it will be a floating 19 years so all cars that are 20 years
> old are exempt from this test.
> If you would like info on this go to
> http://www.driveclean.com/
> 
> I think that a lot of cars will be taken off the road next year.
> Mine will just make it as it is being set up for all drivers getting
> renewals in April. Mine is in March (by the skin of my teeth).
> 
> Kevin Grant
> 80 Cutlass Sup
> Brampton Ont.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 18:28:38 -0500 (EST)
From: luckyducks@webtv.net (cathleen Mueller)
Subject: RE: music system

thanks andy beat you to the punch.thanks  happy holidays

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 18:29:20 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs

I had a stereo for 1.5 weeks before someone smashed the window of my
OLDSMOBILE DELTA 88 for it.
Tell your friend to ask a cop how to get his stereo to work.



stealing stuff is dumb, get a life

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 17:42:56 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 68 12 bolt

OK, one more question.  Since all I want to do is have
a limited slip and 3.43's I'm thinking of using the 8.5"
"corporate" 10 bolt.  My main reason is they're easy
to find and cheap.  This is going to be a street car
so I don't need the extra strength (or expense) of a 
12 bolt.  Will the 10 bolt yoke match up?  What year
did they start the using the corporate 10 bolt?  If
the yoke doesn't match up I can just use the driveshaft
out of the same car the rearend came out of (given
that its up to '72) right?  Yeah, I know its 3 questions
so sue me.  :)

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme
 
>I probably could babble
>on here, but to answer your question,
>due to the limited use of some of these
>components, many must be located used.
>And some are getting expensive.
>For your use/application, the C type
>might be your best bet.  Since Oldsmobiles
>use larger U-joints than the Chevys, 
>the companion flange is different.     
>
>
>Greg Rollin

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 18:45:11 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: " country roads"

I really miss that about Mississippi.  Deserted roads, no cops, fast
cars, and friends that enjoy fast cars and good times.  Now, there's a
job, responsibilities, no fast cars, clogged roads, few friends, and
three NJ cops on every block.  If I ever get back south of the Mason
Dixon Line I'm gonna nail my feet to the ground.
Brian.

Ryan D wrote:
> 
> hey all,i know what you meen ,this guy i know got killd lastweek
> he was doing at lest 105 in his 97 jeep on a back road and a guy
> backt out of his driveway and boom flipt 4 and a 1/2 times.
> the sad thing is it probbely wont stop me or my frends from racing on
> back roads.you just don't learn till its to late.
> 
> ><snip> 95% of the time me and my friends (and even sometimes people we
> meet
> >at the light) go out into the country.  <snip>  At night it is almost
> >deserted.  There is lots of room and the limit is 75 mph.  We race to
> 85 or
> >90 but that is it.  <snip>  The best is to go into the country. <snip>
> >
> 
>   My  -------   -------
>             /  |
>            /   |
>           /     ------
>          /            |
>         /             |
>        /        ------    DELTA 88
> Ryan D Beck
>            Riviera72sss@hotmail.com
> 
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 17:49:23 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: wing/spoiler/make it look better

Don, 
The Daytona and the Superbird wings were adjustable, just dial it in. Joe
P., doesn't the downforce increase proportionately to the square of the
speed? Don't care about boundary layers and all that, make it simple so I
can understand. Still working or Drakes' formula right now. Need a Rocket
Man here!
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

> From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: wing/spoiler/make it look better
> Date: Thursday, December 10, 1998 8:46 AM
and it doesn't screw up the aerodynamics, go for it.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 18:35:41 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Quadrajets/Holleys/Metering Rods/Fuel Injection/Performance /Fuel 
Economy/Reliability

Aw man, I was just gonna READ the list tonight; I just can't keep quiet when it
comes to carburetors, though.  I guess I'm gonna put in my 1/12 cents worth.


> He said the drawback to a
> Quadrajet was that you couldn't do all the hot-rod tinkering to it like you
> could with Holley, but that for a street car it was really the best
> combination of performance, reliability, and fuel economy

Maybe.  But having run both a Q-jet and Holley in a strictly daily driver,
it's  GOTTA start every morning, and get me where I'm going environment, my
Holley's never let me down.  I think the Q-Jet does give better fuel economy,
but my Holley is at least as good as my OEM 2 bbl (2GC) was.

> I worry when people make statements like a carb is "almost like fuel
> injection".

Absolutely, that's where 700 MPG carburetor urban legends come from.

>  Your friend _is_ correct in stating that the Q-jet's metering
> rods allow you to tailor the carb's fuel metering properties more closely
> to the engine's requirements, as a fixed jet will be optimized for a single
> flow condition and will be a little too rich or too lean off the
> optimization point.

I mostly agree but I'm gonna take a risk and ~ slightly ~disagree.  Emphasis on
slightly.  While the metering rods do provide for a more precisely metered fuel
curve throughout the ENTIRE range of engine operation, keep in mind that for
most of part throttle operation (assuming a dual plane manifold and
not-too-wild cam), the metering rods will be held all the way down by engine
vacuum against the pressure of the power piston spring.  During this time when
engine vacuum is sufficient to keep the power piston completely seated, both
the Q-Jet and Holley essentially have fixed fuel restriction sizes.  This
condition can include quite a range of engine speeds from idle to significant
part throttle.  Now, during hard acceleration or other low vacuum conditions a
Q-Jet's power piston will rise, repositioning the metering rods in the jets,
flowing more fuel, thus, enrichening the mixture.  In a Holley a separate power
valve will open, accomplishing the same thing.  However, the Q-Jet metering
rods are more precisely machined than the Holley power valve.  Also,  a Q-Jet
power piston will raise some, but the Holley power valve will tend to come more
or less fully open.  However, Holley has two-stage power valves to offer more
precision.  Moreover, in a Q-Jet the power enrichment comes through the same
orifice-the main jet.  In a Holley, the power enrichment fuel adds to that
already in the main well.  I think this is also a benefit in the Q-Jet.  My
only point here is that during high vacuum conditions, which can represent
quite a range of part throttle RPM's,  both the Q-Jet and Holley will have a
fixed restriction through which the fuel must pass.  In a Q-jet that fixed
restriction is a jet with a rod in it; in a Holley its a fixed hole diameter.

> Of course, most Holley carbs are optimized for WOT,

Maybe. There may be some engineering characteristic to make this so, but I'd
say it depends more on how you set it up.

> with the result that they typically have the signature Holley bog somewhere
> in the acceleration curve.  (Holley lovers keep those cards and letters
> coming in...)

Not a Holley lover.  Believe it or not, I do like the Q-Jet more.  But the only
acceleration bog I ever got was because I had too much play in the accelerator
pump linkage.  Two minutes and a couple turns of a nut driver and I was good to
go.

> And, by the way, you certainly _can_ do all that tinkering with a Q-jet, in
> fact the problem is that you can adjust even more things on a Q-jet than
> you can on a Holley.

That's true.  The secondaries are way easier to adjust in a Q-Jet.  The only
problem here is if you need components like metering rods, you have to order
them or get another carb from a junkyard.  With a Holley, just a trip to the
nearest speed shop will get you most of what you need.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 18:06:04 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Olds stereo

What I did was made a "mini" console that runs from the dash to the
trans tunnel.  No new holes just kind of wedges in.  Has the radio,
oil/temp/volt gauges, a cubby hole for storage, and a couple cup 
holders to boot.  Made it out of aluminum then glued closed cell
foam to the sides, shaped the foam, and glued on vinyl to match 
the interior.  Actually looks pretty good and the cupholders are nice
to have.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

 
>
>You can buy complete under dash housings to hold anysize modern cd
>tuner...they look ugly, but not nearly as bad as a hacked up unrestoreable
>classic car dashboard!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 21:08:45 -0500
From: "Todd M.Williams" <todd@wvadventures.net>
Subject: bad day/hubs,studs and lug nuts

today as im putting the new lug nuts on 4 broke off on the front passenger
side of corse since they were brand new they just had to break today just
my luck i took it to the shop to have it fixxed drove there with only one
lug on heh i was so pissed off cause of them breaking off i didnt feel like
messin with it any ways they tell me the front wheel bearings are shot and
idler arm is loose and the pitman was loose then they tell me i need new
hubs which just really mad things worse today by then i was so pissed they
told me that the NEW studs didnt fit as tight as they should and that he
thought the holes was swelled so whats this mean ? can i get the hubs as
aftermarket or r they hard to get ahold of also i was thinking maybe they
by chance put the wrong size studs in or maybe they owner before me put
differnt hubs on it cause napa is where they got the studs and they were
for my 72 cutlass supreme so they said i was so mad by the time i got home
i put it in the paper for sale lol thats how mad it mad me kinda hope no
one calles about it now after ive settled down so what do ya guys think r
the hubs hard to find ? r they $$$$$$$$$$$  ?? let me know what u think 

Todd 
72 Cutlass supreme
74 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 18:21:54 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: In need of:

Actually with radial tires like Igor has heating them up does very
little to help them grip and supposedly on some tires will make
them grip less.  Basically all your doing is shortening the life 
of the tire unless you have bias ply Hoosiers or M/T's that are
designed for this.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>  Also (especislly for Igor where it is cold,)
>Heat the living crap out of your rear tires before doing these full
>throttle launches.
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 19:23:25 -0500
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Re: olds parts

Also a disk break set up for a body upper and lower a frames included
150  butch

B. Vosburgh wrote:

> I have a couple pairs of heads C and E for sale also a new stick
> flywheel and used bell housing for olds  The E heads are big valve ,
> does not have harden seats The C have harden seats stainless valves
> ported and exhaust center welded up with roller tip rockers and are big
> valve car ran 12.20s with these heads. also have a 12 bolt chev posi
> carrier . 100 for E    450 for C   125 for fly and bell and 175 for
> carrier I am bringing these to the B O P race in orlando saturday if
> want to see,   Butch  68 442 post

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 19:23:08 EST
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: wing/spoiler/make it look better

They're available new in the Year One cat.  Less than $300, I think.  I have
one on my convertible and don't like the look. I guess that's why they were
only available on the hardtops...

Scott 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 16:29:39 -0500
From: "Todd M.Williams" <todd@wvadventures.net>
Subject: another heating ? /sorry guys

i have some ? for ya if u dont mind ok i know it has been asked before and
im sorry guys i have 72 cutlass supreme it had ac i put a 455 in place of
the 350 so the ac had to go along with the big ac blower case, i made a box
out of sheet metal that just covers the square box that goes in the fire
wall into the inside of the car it has what looks like a flapper door type
thingy hehe sorry i hope u can under stand me i left the blower motor where
it was what i did is i took a saw and cut the big ac box off but left the
part where the blower motor is i then took some hose kinda like a hose that
a shop vacume has i then put it to the box i made that covers the flapper
door thingy hehe what i did was cut a round hole into the box i made and
pushed the hose into it then i sealed it useing some silicon then i ran the
hose back to where the blower motor is and did the same to it useing part
of the old box it looks really nice its not hacked up i have had lots of
ppl tell me how well they thought i had done it by useing my head BUT. i
havent got it hooked up yet as in the wireing i was going to use the old ac
wireing to hook it up IF I CAN ??? i pluged the big purplewire into the
blower motor like i should be then it runs into this like realay looking
thing on the fire wall which has a plug with 3 wires in it then there is a
second plug that goes into that realay looking thing also that goes in
through the fire wall from what i can see but i dont work so far do u know
if im doing this rite or will i need some other wires ment for a no ac car
? hope u can under stand this but i just dont know some of the names for
things yet ,any help would be great 

Todd 
72 cutlass supreme
74 442

todd@wvadventures.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 18:34:17 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: bad day/hubs,studs and lug nuts

Todd, 
Don't know about prices or availability, just have them tack welded to the
hubs (on the back), I doubt they are out of round if they are at least
(snug) in their holes. Hang in there, things will probably get worse before
they get better. Also, get a second opinion on all the other items that are
supposedly bad, Auto mechanics are like lawyers, too many are on a
commission basis. (Before I get flamed here, I still carry a Machinist
Local Card # 777, St. Louis).
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

- ----------
> From: Todd M.Williams <todd@wvadventures.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: bad day/hubs,studs and lug nuts

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 19:18:05 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: welding exhaust divider/milling exhausts

Paul,

That was me -- Dave told me to do this on my small-block heads since they
don't have the center divider out to the edge of the port (none did on a
small-block, I believe) and I want to get the two ports divided so the custom
headers I've had made will work properly.  He told me to take it down so the
divider was wide enough to support a gasket between the two ports, don't
change the angular relation of the deck surface of the head to the surface of
the exhaust ports (in other words, don't angle-mill the exhaust port side) and
the bolt holes will be OK.  As for the header flange, test-assemble the
headers to the engine on the stand, and carefully grind the necessary amount
off of the bottom of the headers' flange, that's what we had to do, and it
didn't take much.

OR, here's the other way he told me to work the situation.  We can't do it,
because this would be considered as modifying the ports, which is a no-no in
our local rule book.  Have the divider squarely milled back inside of the
port, and weld a tab onto the headers that will correspond with the milled
divider.

It would be so much easier if only they'd have made that divider just a little
bit longer.......

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 16:40:07 PST
From: "Ryan D" <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: How sad...(was counrty roads)

  G im sooo sorry, i had 2 mins to type it and go back to work,im really 
sorry!

>
>Ryan.......................
> while pondering what I have just written, how about learning
> to use your spell checker before writing your next post...!!!




>hey all,i know what you meen ,this guy i know got killd lastweek
>he was doing at lest 105 in his 97 jeep on a back road and a guy 
>backt out of his driveway and boom flipt 4 and a 1/2 times.
>the sad thing is it probbely wont stop me or my frends from racing on 
>back roads.you just don't learn till its to late.
>
>
>
>
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 19:34:35 EST
From: MFATZII@aol.com
Subject: Re: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs

In a message dated 12/10/98 12:02:19 AM Central Standard Time,
buehner@lyrea.com writes:

<<  has given us (at our store) a
 less-that-stellar impression of the Eclipse units, although they do have an
 excellent product history.  Still not impressed with them, regardless of
their
 specs on paper... personally.
  >>


Thank you I agree, I'm not too impressed with the features or the looks but he
insists that it is a top-o-the line unit and really wanted to use (I told him
to go back and get the cd's) lol ....Personally I would put a factory SAAB
unit up against it any day!

Ryan

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 17:41:55 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: In need of:

>Actually with radial tires like Igor has heating them up does very
>little to help them grip and supposedly on some tires will make
>them grip less.

Yup, I heard that heating Radials does crap.  Decided to try anyway and all
I got was more melted rubber to peel off the rear panes.  Try a 15 yr. old
set of 225/75/15s department-store specials.  The car lights those up even
if you only look at the gas pedal.  My problem is a very bottom end motor
and a stall converter.  Too much torque where I don't need it.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 18:46:26 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: bad day/hubs,studs and lug nuts

Don't know if you can get aftermarket hubs (assuming here your talking
about drum brakes) or not but my guess would be no.  If you could they would
probably be fairly pricey.  Cheapest would be to call a junkyard and have
them use thier Hollander and maybe find something there.  What I would
do is look around and find some oversize studs.  Just oversize where
they mount into the hubs.  Or better yet add a little weld into the holes
and
redrill it so the studs will fit in.  Or you could even go as far as
redrilling the
bolt pattern but that may involve machining the backside of the hub for
proper stud length.  Just a couple thoughts.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

> can i get the hubs as
>aftermarket or r they hard to get ahold of also i was thinking maybe they
>by chance put the wrong size studs in or maybe they owner before me put
>differnt hubs on it cause napa is where they got the studs and they were
>for my 72 cutlass supreme so they said i was so mad by the time i got home
>i put it in the paper for sale lol thats how mad it mad me kinda hope no
>one calles about it now after ive settled down so what do ya guys think r
>the hubs hard to find ? r they $$$$$$$$$$$  ?? let me know what u think
>
>Todd
>72 Cutlass supreme
>74 442
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 19:39:57 EST
From: MFATZII@aol.com
Subject: Re: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs

In a message dated 12/10/98 2:13:34 PM Central Standard Time, GT5726@aol.com
writes:

<< Yes!...There is a lithium back-up battery in the main curcuit
board...remove
 it more 5 mins. and the deck will ask for a personalized security disc upon
 first powerup.
  >>
  Ah yes.... a very intelligent response  you own an Olds right?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 19:47:34 EST
From: MFATZII@aol.com
Subject: Re: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs

In a message dated 12/10/98 12:14:39 AM Central Standard Time,
Gutlass66@aol.com  and Costanzo writes:

<< stealing stuff is dumb, get a life
  >>
<<Anyone who helps a guy install a stolen stereo is NOT cool.>>


>>I had a stereo for 1.5 weeks before someone smashed the window of my
OLDSMOBILE DELTA 88 for it.
Tell your friend to ask a cop how to get his stereo to work.<<



>>stealing stuff is dumb, get a life>>


Oh, ok, so you don't have the answer to my question?----I wonder if STFU has
come up on here before?  The stereo (not that it matters to have the q
answered, was part of an under-the -table deal)  and since I have absolutely
no interest, never have, in the pot-head, hippie, tree-huggin' drug scene I
wanted the subject to not be associated with me in any way, shape or form on
the list !!

and another thing Fu-Q and the Police.


Ryan

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 18:57:19 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs

Damn Ray, 
Wish I had said that, No kidding!
Lou

- ----------
> From: Ray Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs
> Date: Thursday, December 10, 1998 5:29 PM
> 
> I had a stereo for 1.5 weeks before someone smashed the window of my
> OLDSMOBILE DELTA 88 for it.
> Tell your friend to ask a cop how to get his stereo to work.
> 
> 
> 
> stealing stuff is dumb, get a life

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 17:55:22 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: EGR and 455s

I have seen a few '72 big cars (88/98) on the junk yards with a 455s and all
had EGR.  The one I pulled my 455 from had no-EGR, but the motor looks like
it has not been touched.  Just wondering if there was a non-EGR option on
the '72.  Also, if this is not a '72, could it be a '71.   In that case,
what could be the difference in power.  The car was a 98 Regency (tow
package I think).  Anyway, it makes my '81 Regency look like a Civic in
size.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 20:04:39 -0500
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: bad day/hubs,studs and lug nuts

...Reminds me of the time ONE lugnut smapped on my 67 Cutlass.  Was
driving down the highway in Arlington Texas, when I heard a jangling
noise...All the studs had started to work their way loose in all
holes...I gained that day for the first time an acute awareness of what
its like trying to find parts for a 67 Oldsmobile...I did get to see all
the kewl helicopters at the Bell factory as I walked down the road for 5
miles to the nearest rental car place...  My point is, tack welding the
studs is IMHO a good idea, I had that done and I haven't had a problem
since.  It's also a good idea to periodically check all your lugnuts to
make sure they're tight, thus avoiding the unpleasantry of being forced
to deal with a mechanic somewhere out of circumstance, instead of
choice.

Just my .02

Art Hoffmann
67 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 19:19:58 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: bad day/hubs,studs and lug nuts

Arthur, 
Lug nuts should be torqued down, no one does that, but it actually works.
It's in the service manual or call your Olds dealer and find out what they
are supposed to be. Saves a lot of BS. Reply wasn't directed to you, I
forgot who posted the thread originally.
Lou 
PS I have a 67 442 2 dr, ht, black vinyl top, arctic white bottom. 

> From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: bad day/hubs,studs and lug nuts

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 20:17:18 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: "Country Roads" - was re: Olds Vrs. 305 Pontiac

just the 455, make it a sleeper

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 20:27:09 EST
From: Cutw29@aol.com
Subject: Re: 72 Cutlass Supreme

I think the net horsepower is like 180.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 19:54:15 -0600
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
Subject: Video Clips at 442.com

Folks,
        The one and only Bryceman has updated the info. for the
Unofficial Oldsmobile Centennial Celebration Video at 442.com.  At the
top of the ad, there are four video clips to choose from that will give
you an idea of what the video contains.  I'd like to take this
opportunity to publicly say THANK YOU to Bryce for all of the time and
effort he continues to put into his site, and for those of you wondering
what all the fuss was about beginning back in Feb. of this year, check
out the clips.  The link is http://www.442.com/newmantape.html

Thanks,

Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
Columbus, MS         1987 442

See the car at http://www.442.com/newman.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 19:45:54 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: another heating ? /sorry guys

Don't remeber the color codes but the wire going to the blower runs 
through a resistor which sets the speed of the motor.  This resistor
has 3 to 4 spade connectors on it and originally mounts on the 
A/C box in the engine compartment.  When you pull it out it has a 
bunch of coils that set the resistance on the back.  When you flip
the switch on for the fan the voltage will come in at different point
but will always go out the same spot which will go to the blower.
Check to make sure this is plugged in but sometimes they go bad
and won't let the blower get voltage in any switch position.  Check
to see if you have voltage going in and take it from there.  Usually 
either the resistor is bad or you've got a blown fuse.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

> i pluged the big purplewire into the
>blower motor like i should be then it runs into this like realay looking
>thing on the fire wall which has a plug with 3 wires in it then there is a
>second plug that goes into that realay looking thing also that goes in
>through the fire wall from what i can see but i dont work so far do u know
>if im doing this rite or will i need some other wires ment for a no ac car
>? hope u can under stand this but i just dont know some of the names for
>things yet ,any help would be great 
>
>Todd 
>72 cutlass supreme
>74 442
>
>todd@wvadventures.net
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 20:49:21 -0500
From: Bob Dale <bctad5@toolcity.net>
Subject: Re: Conv top patches

Donald B Cart wrote:

>  I noticed a 70 442 Conv the other day with a patch on
> the top. I guess to cover up/protect rips in the top.
> I've thought about having this done, to delay replacing
> my top, which has an approx 6" rip.
>
>  Any thoughts/experiences on this ?
>
> Don
> 72 Cutlass Conv
> 91 Calais I-Series

   I`d say it might depend on what climate ya live in. That is if ya
live in a dry arid climate it does`nt much matter what ya do. If ya live
in a wet, humid, sloppy climate like W. Pa., it`s prolly best to get
that top off there, blast, etch primer and paint ASAP cuz the moisture
gets trapped under the vinyl and rots out the roof. More work and less
fun then..After you can retop when convenient. Did it on my Malibu
Classic and it was a North Carolina car. If ya blast it yourself be
careful not to hit it with too much pressure as it will heat and raise
the metal and then you1ll really have a mess. Just my .02.

Bob-69 Cutlass S 455/400

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 20:54:06 -0500
From: dk0009@mail.pratt.lib.md.us (Douglas Kitchener)
Subject: dash accents

To the Olds list, from a question on the Bryceman's page, for what it's worth, 
about the silver accents on the '70/'72 Cutlass/442 dash-

                                   ******

Hey Randy,

You must be getting close to having your car done!  I can follow your progress 
thru the info requests on the Bryce page!  :)

The "chrome" stuff is not really chrome, I think, but bright silver.  Anyway, 
to 
my eyes, the silver looks good enuf.  Go to an art store and buy a silver 
paint 
pen, loox like a magic marker, and just draw it on!  Simple... and quick.  You 
could also use some silver paint (I've used Testor's model paint for this 
before) and a small brush, but it's a lot more tedious.  I can't take credit 
for 
the paint pen trick, another guy told me about it!  Incidentally, he did this 
on 
a low-mileage '71 W30 convertible, and it looked fine-

Twoferone, I just recycled a Cutlass clock from the junkyard for my 
girlfriend's 
'71 Cutlass S... you can take the clock apart and nuke it with WD-40 (we call 
it 
W30 around here!) and 9 out of 10 it will work.  The hands on this one were 
faded, so I repainted the orange tips of them with Testor's Model Master 
Fluorescent Red (#FS28915).  (Actually 3 for 1!)  If the needles on your 
speedo/gas gauge/rally pack are faded, try it... I think I'm gonna check and 
redo all mine!  I'm now gonna reveal my age... this bottle of Testor's stuff 
was 
$1.39 or $1.69, something like that... and I can remember when it was 10 
cents!  
(Arrgh...)

What can I hep ya with next!?  :)

Happy "Holidays"!

Regards,

Doug

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 20:56:13 -0500 (EST)
From: luckyducks@webtv.net (cathleen Mueller)
Subject: RE: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs

You are terribly misinformed- my WIFE AND I bought the car from a friend
with kids and the SEPARATE manual for the radio was lost or
destroyed(maybe it became some sort of coloring book, we think) Please
don't presume things.
Happy Holidays.
luckyducks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 21:02:00 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Re: How sad...(was counrty roads)

Ryan........
   You must realize the more you type, the more
 you reveal about your sad self...!!! 
I hope I never meet you or any of your
 "buddies" on the open road..!!

Mike...................


From:          "Ryan D" <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>

  G im sooo sorry, i had 2 mins to type it and go back to work,im really 
sorry!

>
>Ryan.......................
> while pondering what I have just written, how about learning
> to use your spell checker before writing your next post...!!!




>hey all,i know what you meen ,this guy i know got killd lastweek
>he was doing at lest 105 in his 97 jeep on a back road and a guy 
>backt out of his driveway and boom flipt 4 and a 1/2 times.
>the sad thing is it probbely wont stop me or my frends from racing on 
>back roads.you just don't learn till its to late.
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 21:06:33 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Conv top patches

<Snip>

best to get
that top off there, blast, etch primer and paint ASAP cuz the moisture
gets trapped under the vinyl and rots out the roof. More work and less
fun then..After you can retop when convenient.


Ah Bob, I think the original post was about a convertible top

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
ICQ# 5209322
mailto:gjcouse@CC-IROC-SS.com 

Custom Conversion Prototype: 
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
Send Project Questions To:
mailto:info@CC-IROC-SS.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 21:07:49 -0500
From: Bob Dale <bctad5@toolcity.net>
Subject: Heater controls

Anyone want to tell me how to get the heater controls, headlite switch,
and wiper switch out of a 69 Cutlass dash? This is embarrassing but so`s
my spelling. Thought ya just srewed the rinf off for the switches but
that`s not doin it.

Bob-69 Cutlass 455/400

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 20:18:39 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Conv top patches

To all, 
Repaired a conv. top with some extra material (matched) I got from
upholstery shop, about 5" x 5", put it on with 3m trim cement, looked like
heck, didn't fall off, carried it about a year, rain and snow, put on a new
top later. If your broke it helps, doesn't rain on you.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
- ----------
> From: <GJC> CC-IROC-SS <gjcouse@francomm.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: Conv top patches
> Date: Thursday, December 10, 1998 8:06 PM

> Ah Bob, I think the original post was about a convertible top
> 
> -----Regards,
> 
> Gary J. Couse
> Couse Custom

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1658
*********************************

