Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1625


oldsmobile-digest    Wednesday, November 25 1998    Volume 01 : Number 1625



Re: console extension harness
Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400
Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400
Re: Olds model kit news.
Car Craft (was hate"C"cars)
CLASSIC CAR
[Fwd: wont turn off.]
RE: 4-speed Vs. TH400
1967 olds 98 convert. Condition: very good
Re: 70 Cutlass SX
403 cylinder bore
Re: [Fwd: wont turn off.]
Re: What do you think?
72 VIN Rivets
Parts Wanted 
Door Hinge Pin&Bushing Replacement
Re: Parts Wanted 
Re: [Fwd: wont turn off.]
Pontiac Engines ( I know, I know)
Re: CLASSIC CAR
Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400
Vista Cruiser's similar cousins...  anybody?
Re: New
Re: Vista Cruiser's similar cousins...  anybody?
Re: Q-Jet on a 307
Re: trim rechroming ?
Re: daytime running lights
Re: Why do you hate "C" cars?
Re: What do you think?
Re: F-85 Omega?
auto and 4 sp
Re: Q-Jet on a 307 (getting long!)
Re: 455 Buildup 
Re: Omega info
RE: 4-speed Vs. TH400
Re: DRL's
Re: 1985 442 FOR IMMEDIATE SALE
Re: [Fwd: wont turn off.]
Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400
Re: Vista Cruiser's similar cousins... anybody?
Rechroming
Re: DRL's
RE: trim rechroming ?
Re: Rechroming
Re: DRL's
Re: Re: Olds EFI
RE: 4-speed Vs. TH400
Re: Rechroming
Re: console extension harness
Re: console extension harness
Re: daytime running lights
Re: Vista Cruiser's similar cousins... anybody?
Re: Pontiac Engines ( I know, I know)
Re: Q-Jet on a 307

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 23:41:45 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: console extension harness

In a message dated 11/24/98 5:27:44 PM Eastern Standard Time,
patton@ComCAT.COM writes:

<< List,
         Can someone tell me line of travel for the
 console extension harness in my 67'? Does
 it travel down the tranny tunnel or across
 the floor ?
  >>
seems like dads '67 went down the tranny hump.  good luck,
jeremy
BIGJERMES@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 23:43:43 EST
From: Bumluk@aol.com
Subject: Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400

  i never said you could not win races with an automatic, and they are
definetly more consistant,  their  are very quick cars with both
transmissions, all i said was if the cars were equal in all respects except
transmissions the 4-speed would finish first....  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 21:49:46 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400

I am primarily interested in street driving and racing.  If I have trouble
hooking up with a Th400, I don't even want to know about the 4-speed.  I
just think that it would be cool to get a 4-speed (or 5 or 6) Delta 88.  If
I ever run into a 4-speed, what do I have to pull of that car.  Thanks.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 22:50:50 +0000
From: f85@juno.com (Joe R Brockman)
Subject: Re: Olds model kit news.

The kit is alright.  I have definately seen better.  Hopefully this 66
kit will be better.  That's what I have, and that is what I wanted to
work on, but at the time that's all they had.

On Tue, 24 Nov 1998 21:44:39 -0500 THOMAS JACQUILLARD
<tjacquillard@InfoAve.Net> writes:
>Joe R Brockman wrote:
>> 
>> I have one of those 67 kits.  It is done by Lindberg.
>> 
>> Joe B.
>> YES, that's it. How is it. LMK
>T.J.
>

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 22:18:52 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Car Craft (was hate"C"cars)

>Craft and Hot Rod.  There are so many Camaros and Novas and such.

I sent them a E-mail about a Heavy Metal Delta, or a Cheap street Cutlass,
but no response.  Send them E-mail asking for more OLDS content, not Joe
Mondello build-up, but a true buildup by the magazine.  Their e-mail is:
carcraft@petersenpub.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 21:31:22 -0800
From: "HELROSS" <HELROSS@email.msn.com>
Subject: CLASSIC CAR

Am interested in selling 1967 Olds 98 convertable. Shown in Price  Guide
Mag. 1997 Issue Photo No 3, VERY GOOD CONDITON. See  vol. 20  number 6,
page # 5, .
                                H Ross.........E-Mail:  helross@msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 22:31:03 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: [Fwd: wont turn off.]

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
- --------------5AD1DC7ECE979EE934FDCC43
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

this is the reply I got from MSD about the run on with my car. I haven't
used it yet, but will soon. Thanks for the lead Butch!

Ben

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From: Joe LaPille <jlapille@msdignition.com>
To: "'olds442@primenet.com'" <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: RE: wont turn off.
Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 13:43:40 -0700
X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.1960.3)


> Dear Sir,
> 
>   To solve the run on problem, you have to install a 1amp 200 Volt diode
> in line of the field wire of the voltage regulator.  You can get this
> diode through an electronic store.  When installing the diode, it has a
> silver band, make sure the silver band is facing the regulator.  The
> reason for the diode is to prevent feedback through the field wire, which
> can keep a small voltage to the MSD unit to keep it running, the diode is
> to prevent the feedback.
> Thanks,
> 
> MSD Tech
> 
> ----------
> From: 	Ben[SMTP:]
> Sent: 	Monday, November 23, 1998 6:09 PM
> To: 	Joe LaPille
> Subject: 	wont turn off.
> 
> I have gotten a problem since replacing my aftermarket electronig voltage
> regulator with a stock style "flapper" type. Somebody mentioned to me
> about soldering in a diode to the alternator dummy light. Does anybody
> have information as to why this is suggested or why it JUST started to do
> this after replacing the regulator? Somebody mentioned it because SOME
> MSD-6 and 6L require this for some unknown reason. Any thoughts,
> suggestions, or help will be greatly appreciated. 
> 
> 68 Olds 442 
> 400 ci w/ TH-400 
> HEI w/ MSD-6 triggered by HEI 
> Aluminum heads 
> 62 amp alternator with 62 amp regulator "stock style" 
> 
> Ben 
> Olds442@primenet.com
> 
> 


- --------------5AD1DC7ECE979EE934FDCC43--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 00:44:50 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: 4-speed Vs. TH400

My original intent on this thread was the interaction between the car and
the senses of power when throwing the gears. Not who was first down the
line, nor even the line it's self.

Not every car thrill is judged by the strip times. How about that crisp fall
day. With piles of falling leaves flying about as you pass through them.
Hitting the swoops and shakiness of a back country road pushing the limits
of your street tire. Romping up and down through the gearing as your
adrenaline escalates. I've never felt that "man and machine commitment"
behind an automatic.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

ICQ# 5209322 = "CC-IROC-SS"
Personal ICQ Communication Center:
http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322

Custom Conversion Proto-type:
CC-IROC-SS-#00001 =  "Quincy"
http://members.tripod.com/CC_IROC_SS/
Soon to be: http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

The CC-IROC-SS Project Delphi Forum:
http://forums.delphi.com/m/main.asp?sigdir=CC_IROC_SS

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 21:45:29 -0800
From: "HELROSS" <HELROSS@email.msn.com>
Subject: 1967 olds 98 convert. Condition: very good

Can be seen in Los Angeles county area, close to the Ventura County line/
                                       Helross@msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 00:49:51 EST
From: DEOVIVERE@aol.com
Subject: Re: 70 Cutlass SX

In a message dated 98-11-24 02:17:19 EST, you write:

<< I
 went around and knocked where I could and it sounded right. >>

A good way to test for rust/bondo is to use a magnet.  It'll tell you where
there's metal and where there's not or how thick the filler is over the metal.

Tom

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 01:04:12 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: 403 cylinder bore

     Hi all, another question in the saga of my 403. The machine shop said it
had to be bored to .060. (It was already bored to .040, with additional wear
it was .050 over) They also told me that .060 was max. Now I have heard that
Mondello says .040 is max for these blocks....kinda got me concerned. 
     Now that it IS bored .060, what kind of problems will I perhaps be
running into? I heard overheating will be one. The block ran cool at .050, so
I am hoping that if it does tend to "warm up"  more, it will be tolerable. I
seem to recall that SB Chev 400's in the later years had a similar "thin
wall". I was wondering how similar the two blocks are in wall thickness. Any
insight/input on this would be appreciated.  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 01:10:53 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: wont turn off.]

>this is the reply I got from MSD about the run on with my car. I haven't
>used it yet, but will soon. Thanks for the lead Butch!


Ben,

FWIW....the diode that comes included with the MSD box is a 1V 100amp diode
and you splice into the wire coming from the #4 terminal on the voltage
regulator.

I have an extra set of instructions if anyone out there needs them. Drop me
an e-mail randygeisel@prodigy.net

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 00:31:17 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: What do you think?

If you have a picture of it can you upload it to a site? We then can all
take a look...
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: What do you think?
> Date: Tuesday, November 24, 1998 4:54 PM
> 
> I did that on my '69 rag top and I really like it!  The car is painted
'92 GM
> Competition Blue (Really bright blue!) and has a black interior - the
matching
> dash and column really help bring the outside and inside of the car
together!
> Todd Daenzer
> '69 rag top - 310hp tied to a 'glide :-(
> '75 Supreme - project car....
> '82 Supreme - SB, 700R4, 3.73's - Grin!
> '86 Supreme - V-8 - daily driver...
> 
> Peter Landowski wrote:
> 
> > My 72 442 is being completely repainted. We have the front window out
and
> > the dash is out. I was thinking of painting the metal portion of the
dash
> > and the steering column the color the car is being painted(quasar
blue). I
> > know factory did not due this. THe metal dash and steering cloumn were
the
> > color of the interior. Do you think this will look good?
> >
> > Pettrix@prodigy.net
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 00:37:31 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: 72 VIN Rivets

I was wondering on a 72 Olds 442 were the VIn rivets on the dash pointing
in or out. Is the VIN riveted from the underside of the dash?

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 22:34:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Parts Wanted 

   I just got my 1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe back from the body
shop.  The guy was a real a**hole.  He lost a bunch of my chrome trim
pieces, as well as a few other pieces, and there were a few small
defects/chips in the new paint job.  When I told him that the pieces
either need to be replaced and/or he should take some money off of the
cost of the paint job, he gave me a REALLY hard time about it and
threatened to raise the bill by charging me for some extras that he
initially did for free.  I then told him that I'd be forced get my
compensation in another way (lawyer), so he dropped $180 off of the
bill (not much really, but i didn't want to argue anymore).  Problem
is I still don't have the parts.  Here's the list of what I need, so
if anybody could help me out, it would be GREATLY appreciated.

       All parts for 1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
       
            1 Trunklid "Cutlass" script
            
            1 left rear (drivers side) wheel well                   
chrome moulding-I may be able to get one               of these locally
            
            1 (I don't know what it's called) The                   
chrome 'elbow' w/little plastic triangle               thing attached
to it, in the top front                 corner of the driver's window 
           
            1 the end cap on the driver's side of the               
metal trim strip/bar on the bottom                     inside of the
rear window, Blue
            
  I also have a trunklid 'Cutlass' script for a 1971-72
  cutlass for sale/trade if anyone is interested.    Excellent chrome

  Thanks a lot in advance,
  Please reply direct to:  sgadecki@yahoo.com

Stefan
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
sgadecki@yahoo.com 
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 00:45:27 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Door Hinge Pin&Bushing Replacement

On my 72 442 I have all 4 door hinges off and I want to replace the pins
and bushings. The question I have is how to remove the pin from the hinge
which has the spring in it. The spring is under great tension and is
difficult to remove.


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 00:47:51 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Parts Wanted 

IF you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay for the whole paintjob.
Also what was done(bare metal strip, color change.etc.)? Thanks....If you
have a pic of it please upload it to a site....
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Parts Wanted 
> Date: Wednesday, November 25, 1998 12:34 AM
> 
> 
>    I just got my 1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe back from the body
> shop.  The guy was a real a**hole.  He lost a bunch of my chrome trim
> pieces, as well as a few other pieces, and there were a few small
> defects/chips in the new paint job.  When I told him that the pieces
> either need to be replaced and/or he should take some money off of the
> cost of the paint job, he gave me a REALLY hard time about it and
> threatened to raise the bill by charging me for some extras that he
> initially did for free.  I then told him that I'd be forced get my
> compensation in another way (lawyer), so he dropped $180 off of the
> bill (not much really, but i didn't want to argue anymore).  Problem
> is I still don't have the parts.  Here's the list of what I need, so
> if anybody could help me out, it would be GREATLY appreciated.
> 
>        All parts for 1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
>        
>             1 Trunklid "Cutlass" script
>             
>             1 left rear (drivers side) wheel well                   
> chrome moulding-I may be able to get one               of these locally
>             
>             1 (I don't know what it's called) The                   
> chrome 'elbow' w/little plastic triangle               thing attached
> to it, in the top front                 corner of the driver's window 
>            
>             1 the end cap on the driver's side of the               
> metal trim strip/bar on the bottom                     inside of the
> rear window, Blue
>             
>   I also have a trunklid 'Cutlass' script for a 1971-72
>   cutlass for sale/trade if anyone is interested.    Excellent chrome
> 
>   Thanks a lot in advance,
>   Please reply direct to:  sgadecki@yahoo.com
> 
> Stefan
> 1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
> sgadecki@yahoo.com 
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 23:45:52 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: wont turn off.]

excuse me??? diode? Box??? I have my MSD and worked with two others and NONE of
them had a diode in the box. I'll certainly keep that in mind if I happen to
buy another one later. I'm just gonna goto Radio Shack and buy one. thanks
though.

Ben

RANDY A GEISEL wrote:

> >this is the reply I got from MSD about the run on with my car. I haven't
> >used it yet, but will soon. Thanks for the lead Butch!
>
> Ben,
>
> FWIW....the diode that comes included with the MSD box is a 1V 100amp diode
> and you splice into the wire coming from the #4 terminal on the voltage
> regulator.
>
> I have an extra set of instructions if anyone out there needs them. Drop me
> an e-mail randygeisel@prodigy.net
>
> Randy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 01:49:48 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Pontiac Engines ( I know, I know)

     I know this isn't really the place to ask, but obviously Olds owners are
more organized than Pontiac owners : ) I now want to find info about the
Pontiac 400. If anyone knows a site, or personally knows a lot about Pontiacs,
please contact me. If this 403 is bad after the bore, I MAY try to go with a
Pontiac 400..I have a car that at a later date it COULD go in. Thanks, Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 01:36:40 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: CLASSIC CAR

> Am interested in selling 1967 Olds 98 convertable.
mailto:helross@msn.com

I'll keep this on the list, incase others want to see it... Is there an online
source for pics of your car???  I'm a-feared I won't be able to buy it (no$$$)
but I haven't seen any other 67 98 cvts...  besides mine.  If the new owner
happens to be on this list, or if it helps to sell it, there were only 3769 of
these cars ever made.  I've already got one of 'em.  Here's a second...  Only
3767 to go...  ;)  Anyway, if you've got online pics, I'd (we'd all) love to 
see
where they're at.  If the book's the only place, I'll have to keep my eyes open
:(   For those that want to see what the car ~could~ look like, if the owner 
had
beaten the hell out of it, and it ~wasn't~ in good condition...  it'd look like
this:
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/6798conv.htm

Good luck with the sale!
- -- 
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 01:35:55 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400

I've never felt that "man and machine commitment"
>behind an automatic.


You have a point.  Well put.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 01:48:57 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Vista Cruiser's similar cousins...  anybody?

Saw a wagon this weekend, thought it was a VC, thought it was a Buick, thought
it was a VC, thought it was a Buick (*I saw it twice...;) Front end was bashed
up (typical for the VC <sniff>) but the hood said "Buick" on it.  But it had 
the
VC's moonroof up top.  Did the Buick equivalent back then (SportWagon?) ever
have the moonroof thing?  Pics I see don't show any, but that don't necessarily
mean much.  Rear body looks about the same (Below the roof, mainly taillight
area) from the drawing.  I'm guessing this fella stuck a Buick nose on a VC.  
Or
something similar.  But don't know.  Didn't see it standing still, so many of
the "good" details were missed.
- -- 
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 23:11:52 -0500
From: "jlabay" <jlabay@neo.rr.com>
Subject: Re: New

Sounds great to me. I race regularly at 2 tracks here.  I used to race a 93
Z28 and a 95 Impala SS. Currently building a 72 Cutlass Supreme to be a
manily strip, some street car.  I only had it to the track 2 times this year
and with a smallblock Chevy LT1 396 stroker (from a 95 Corvette) backed by a
built 4L60E tranny it ran 10.88 @ 126 on a stock suspension and M&H slicks
(scary ride with that old rattling suspension). No boost or juice, although
I was tempted to put a 150 shot on it ;-) Desperately trying to find a good
buildable 425 or 455 Olds motor for next race season though. Where do you
race at?

Jason Labay




>Sounds like a good crew!  What's the mood about running a chevy engine in a
>67 F85?  We've had the motor for about 25 years & picked the car up less
>engine for $500.  Bolted in & had a quick cruiser over a weeknd worth of
>work......

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 06:49:36 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Vista Cruiser's similar cousins...  anybody?

Yep, the Buick Sportwagon used the VC body with the roof windows, rear sun
visors, etc., but a Buick front and rear end and interior. Haven't seen
one of them in years....

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 06:52:40 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Q-Jet on a 307

On Tue, 24 Nov 1998, Bill B. wrote:
> I suspect that the vacum break is not
> pulling the choke off fast enough.  Is it possible to replace the vacum
> break to cure this kind of problem? Is there a certain part number I
> need?

Yes, it is possible, and yes, you need a specific part. I did this on my
'78, an easy job though you might have to tinker with the settings after
its on. I just went to my dealer, they looked up the number and ordered it
in for me. Wasn't expensive, $25-35 as I recall.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 06:13:26 -0500
From: Brian Kerr <bkerr@golden.net>
Subject: Re: trim rechroming ?

Greg:
    I have heard good and bad about Cambridge Chrome
(Just 2 minutes from my house) On bumpers, the price he quoted me over the 
phone
was $625 for front and rear, but many people have said that the price goes up
once the parts get to his place. One of the guys in my car club paid 650 for 
the
front and 550 for the back of his 71 442, and never tell them that 'youre in no
hurry'. Some people say they do good work, several have said they will never 
get
them to do another piece due to poor quality. Just passing on the warnings from
locals.

Brian Kerr

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 05:18:51 -0600
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: daytime running lights

Is there any legality or liability to disconnecting them?  GM is doing this
purely on their own, but if you disconnect them and have an accident, there
is a remote chance the other party would sue saying if you had them he would
have seen you and then there would have been no accident.  Any lawyers in
the house?  

Chances are small....

In Canada they are law, right?

I like them, mainly because I live in the country areas and when you are
traveling 55 - 65 mph down a backroad and some MORON sees you and pulls out
doing 25 and can't seem to find that tall vertical pedal on the right, you
want as much visibility as possible.  I almost hit people on 2 different
occasions.  

1, some nimrod started to pull out, and I had the choice of them leaving
from the stop sign, not looking at all from the left, the car on the right
at the stop sign, the 77 Delta 88 oncoming, I was less than 50 foot from
intersection and moving at 60 mph.  The black marks lasted for over a year.
All I did was brace for impact and knowing I would have killed the passenger
for sure.  A new Cavalier would not survive a 60 mph side impact from a 3500
lb Bonneville.  

2, lady pulled up to 2 way stop, looked to right and pulled out, not looking
to left at all, if I didn't get into the oncoming traffic lane on the brakes
and horn, she would have died in her Niss@n M@xima.  55 mph side impact from
85 Cutlass would have been VERY ugly!  She fortunately looked at me from the
screeching of brakes and horn blaring.  She stopped and just looked like "Oh
my God....."  She knew she would have been toasted for sure.  

I would leave them alone, just a little more attention to you may actually
help, at least where I drive.

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800


>Joe, not really, I hate the damn things, donno how to disconnect though,
>Auto week was asking for write in on how to disconnect them, must be a
>trick to it.
>Lou Biggs
>lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 05:30:53 -0600
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Why do you hate "C" cars?

Mainly it is attitude.  A lot of people think that there is no other car
than Chevy.  There are a lot more!  The SBC has done well, but people get
this thing thinking it is the greatest engine ever made.  If it is or isn't
is always debatable.  And will till the end of time.  I can list things
about all the engines that are great and better than the other brand.  But
if that is what you like, that is your tastes.  I respect that.  I leave it
at that.  Some people just can't, that is where the bashing begins.  I have
never owned a SBC/BBC, (Small Block or Big Block Chevy), but probably will
someday.  When it comes to small blocks I prefer Olds, when it comes to Big
Blocks, (400+ CID) I prefer Pontiac.  They both make power where the real
world uses it.  I cannot complain at all.  with the latter engines you can
make power without spend your life savings on alum heads and such, and still
make a great driving car.  Or even race car.  (For less than $3K I can build
a Pontiac 455 that will run low 10's, try that with ANY Chevy.  That is
totally streetable too!  And that is D port heads, steel rods, Torquer
intake, stock crank, etc, shifting at 5300.  It makes an honest 530 hp, and
535 ft lbs torque.)  No NO2!  

That is my .02

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 06:33:44 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: What do you think?

Peter,
    I'm not sure if I have a picture of the interior - but I'll check and let
you know! :)
Todd

Peter Landowski wrote:

> If you have a picture of it can you upload it to a site? We then can all
> take a look...
> Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
> ----------
> > From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Re: What do you think?
> > Date: Tuesday, November 24, 1998 4:54 PM
> >
> > I did that on my '69 rag top and I really like it!  The car is painted
> '92 GM
> > Competition Blue (Really bright blue!) and has a black interior - the
> matching
> > dash and column really help bring the outside and inside of the car
> together!
> > Todd Daenzer
> > '69 rag top - 310hp tied to a 'glide :-(
> > '75 Supreme - project car....
> > '82 Supreme - SB, 700R4, 3.73's - Grin!
> > '86 Supreme - V-8 - daily driver...
> >
> > Peter Landowski wrote:
> >
> > > My 72 442 is being completely repainted. We have the front window out
> and
> > > the dash is out. I was thinking of painting the metal portion of the
> dash
> > > and the steering column the color the car is being painted(quasar
> blue). I
> > > know factory did not due this. THe metal dash and steering cloumn were
> the
> > > color of the interior. Do you think this will look good?
> > >
> > > Pettrix@prodigy.net
> >
> >

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 07:03:50 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: F-85 Omega?

What year was it??




At 06:46 PM 11/24/98 -0800, you wrote:
>
>I came across an Omega at a car lot with
>"F-85" emblems on the fenders (anybody can put emblems on).
>after looking closer there was also a F-85 logo on the ceter of
>the steering wheel (this looked factory).
>Did Olds carry the F-85 to the X-body?
>This was a high option car, unlike the older A-body F-85's Ive seen.
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 07:09:38 -0500
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: auto and 4 sp

I do not have a 4 speed but have the overdrive and when you wind threw 6
speeds foward it sure attracts alot of attention,    Love my olds
Butch  68  442  post

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 06:31:21 -0600
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Q-Jet on a 307 (getting long!)

Doug Roe's book Rochester Carburetors is the best by far (and probably only
book there is!).  
To test the front vacuum break, remove vacuum line from it, depress plunger,
hold finger over vacuum nipple.  This SHOULD hold for 1 minute.  On average,
15 seconds and you are ok.  This will cause it to run rich, and also to
start when cold and then die, then restart.  (like it ran out of gas in the
float bowls, but it really ran out of air!)  Then check the rear vacuum
break.  It should be similar, hold for 15 sec MIN, 1 minute for new.  If it
is a spring loaded type it can be harder to test.  Vacuum pump is the best
thing to use.  

What is happening...  The choke gets set (blade completely closed, high stop
on idle cam) by a tap of the gas pedal (no need to go to floor, that just
adds extra fuel, which is promptly wasted, but may be needed in VERY cold
climate).  When the engine is cranked the engine vacuum comes up right away
and opens the choke approx. .190 inches.  (ENSURE THE INITAL MEASUREMENTS
ARE DONE ON CARB BEFORE YOU ADJUST THIS!!  DON'T JUST TWEAK!  If it has
never been touched, then it may be ok.  Usually this is a one time
adjustment)  This allows the engine to run.  After approx. 30 seconds the
rear vacuum break should open (Sooner in warmer weather, 30 sec in cold).
This is computer controlled with the CCC cars, and it temp controlled on
older, usually open by 65 degrees F coolant temp.  Some models it was
connected directly to manifold vacuum.  This should open the choke slightly
more to .2 inches, and will not allow it to reset at all if the gas is
applied.  Basically it is a 2 stage choke.  (NOTE:  some models, obscure as
they are, may not have a rear vacuum break, but ALL will have a front vacuum
break).  A light application or slight stab of the gas should pull the choke
off of the highest cam step.  This will allow the engine to idle down
slightly.  As the choke (electric or hot air) warms, the choke blade will
open more and allow a leaner mixture for normal driving.  As the choke is
opening more, the gas pedal must be depressed slightly to allow the fast
idle cam to release so the engine can get down to normal idle speed.  It is
set by the choke, but the pressure from the throttle on the cam keeps it in
place even though the choke is open.  That is why it will stay at high idle
and you leave the car and not touch the gas.  

FYI:
When the choke is set and engine started (open to .190 inches) fuel mixture
is approx. 5:1.  

When setting the high idle speed, set it with the engine oil cold, 1985 says
to 750ish rpm in drive, I think on 2nd step of high idle cam.  The first
time I did it was engine hot, so when it was cold it did not work at all!

The 1976 Olds Service Manual has all the carb setup in inches.  The 1985 and
most rebuild kits have it in degrees.  I can scan in the measurements and
you can adapt them to your application.  I use the 350 Olds adjustments from
76 on my 83 CCC Q-Jet on my 77 350 in my 85 Cutlass.  Works well, starts
very nice.  Excellent cold drivabilty manners.

When looking for a replacement front vacuum break (also known as choke
pull-off), look for one that when no vacuum returns immediately.  This
return feature is also your 4BBL opening rate!  So do observe this, check
out performance models, "9" 307, L82 Vette, L69 305, ANY car with low gears
like 3.73's or so.  I have used several vacuum breaks on several different
carbs.  Even though some are different in length, they all interchanged
perfectly.  I would look at 80 Turbo Trans AM, it opens fast for the 4BBL,
and may be a good choice.  BTW, the 80 Turbo 301 carb is possibly the best
of any Q-Jet made.  It is an 800 CFM model, has remote power piston vacuum
sourcing, the richest metering rods ever factory produced by GM in a
production car, is NOT computer controlled and has electric choke (M4ME).
If you are looking for a rebuilt Q-Jet, look for this one.  I will have to
give some special info for 1 vacuum line, the rest are standard.

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800


>My Q-Jet 307 powered 87 Custom Cruiser (167,000 miles) runs extremely
>rich for the first couple of minutes after a cold start. (Al Gore and my
>neighbors are not happy with me.) I suspect that the vacuum break is not
>pulling the choke off fast enough.  Is it possible to replace the vacuum
>break to cure this kind of problem? Is there a certain part number I
>need? I seem to remember that a really good down-to-earth Q-Jet book is
>available.  Can someone dredge up the name and author of the book?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 07:45:07 -0500
From: "James E. Brady III" <James.E.Brady.1@gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: 455 Buildup 

Igor,
	I think the rear is 2.56 since the car really hums and smooths right 
out
at 75-80mph!  I think I will consider the cam and mufflers you suggest
since I don't want to spend to much on this rebuild.  Don't know about
headers since that is another cost.  One thing I like about the cam is like
you said I can maintain my current stall converter.  I am not real familiar
with automatics, is the torque converter an item that should be replaced
while rebuilding the motor or should I keep it since it obviously works?
Thanks for your response.

Jim Brady

>What I did to the J-heads was remove the a.i.r. bump on the exhaust side &
>polish it.  I then opened up the exhaust valve opening a bit.  As far as the
>stock gears go, if you keep them go with the same cam I have (which is the
>same as Edelbrock Performer) and don't get a stall converter.  You don't
>need it + with 2.56 gears I would not recommend it.  I use the same stock
>exhaust manifolds as you have.  They work okay.  It is true duel exhaust
>with the second inlet on the pass. side capped off.  The car is silent
>(believe me) with 2.5" duels, balancer tube, Dynomax Long Turbo mufflers and
>2.25" tails.  (Long mufflers will flow better and be quieter, but cost
>more). BUT if you can, GET headers.  I doubt that the car would be much
>louder, but it would make much more power.  The stock manifolds are too
>restrictive and hurt lots.  I could not fit any headers in my car, but they
>make them for yours.  On a big motor like that, headers are like free power.
>
>Igor
1973 Delta 88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 08:06:25 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Omega info

I'll get some pictures up as soon as I snap some. I'll take some pictures
of my '74 hatchback with the graphics this weekend. My other '74 that I'm
redoing is torn down to a nub right now and I've been video documenting
it's restoration which will help alot when it comes time for reassembly of
things such as the wiring harnesses and underdash stuff. It'll be rated R
though for violence and profanity. I've got some good first day footage
when I opened the hood and came face to face with a 3' blacksnake, then
chased it under the car and beat it to death with a crowbar. I tell ya,
these car projects are never ending excitement. I've got some old pic's
taken at various times over the last 12 years of it. I'll have my sister
post a few on her webpage. I'll have to get her html. I'm not sure what it is.

Ed
The Omega Man

'74 Omega 455/4sp
'74 Omega 350/auto


- ---------------------------------------------
At 10:38 PM 11/24/98 EST, you wrote:
>Ed,
>
>I remember the Omegas from those years, as my mother worked for Brenner
>Oldsmobile here in Kansas City, Kansas.  I think 73 was the first year for
the
>Omega, so this would be an early model one (in contrast to my 1980 Starfire
>GT, which was built as the last model of the H07 Special style).  I remember
>that there was an "SX" option as well as the F-85 (moved over from the
>Cutlasses), but these markings you're describing don't jog my memory.
>
>I can speak for many on the list that we'd like to see some pictures of your
>Rockets.  The Omegas (RWD variety in particular) are an almost forgotten car,
>my late 70's/1980 Starfires are like that, too.  Keep up the good work and
>let's see some pictures!
>
>Take Care,
>Ken Snyder
>Kansas City, Kansas
>ks7racing@aol.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 08:13:36 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: RE: 4-speed Vs. TH400

RIGHT ON MAN
YOU SING IT.

ED

THE OMEGA MAN

'74 OMEGA 455/4SPD

- -------------------------------


At 12:44 AM 11/25/98 -0500, you wrote:
>My original intent on this thread was the interaction between the car and
>the senses of power when throwing the gears. Not who was first down the
>line, nor even the line it's self.
>
>Not every car thrill is judged by the strip times. How about that crisp fall
>day. With piles of falling leaves flying about as you pass through them.
>Hitting the swoops and shakiness of a back country road pushing the limits
>of your street tire. Romping up and down through the gearing as your
>adrenaline escalates. I've never felt that "man and machine commitment"
>behind an automatic.
>
>-----Regards,
>
>Gary J. Couse
>Couse Customs
>mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com
>
>ICQ# 5209322 = "CC-IROC-SS"
>Personal ICQ Communication Center:
>http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322
>
>Custom Conversion Proto-type:
>CC-IROC-SS-#00001 =  "Quincy"
>http://members.tripod.com/CC_IROC_SS/
>Soon to be: http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
>
>The CC-IROC-SS Project Delphi Forum:
>http://forums.delphi.com/m/main.asp?sigdir=CC_IROC_SS
>
>G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
>For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
>http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
>mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 08:38:53 -0500
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: DRL's

Greg B. Observes:

> Daytime running lights have been law in Canada since the late 80s. I
> thought they were silly at first, but when I bought my first new car with
> them in 1990 it turned out they were quite convenient. I liked having them
> on (they ran at about 70% intensity according to the manual) on stormy
> days when it was dark during the daytime because you didn't have to worry
> about forgetting to shut them off when you shut down the car.

Having owned our first car with DRLs for about 5 months now, I have to
agree with Greg.  On dark rainy days, as well as the beginning of dusk,
DRLs are a nice visual cue for other drivers to see you.  The only downside
I've experienced -- and it happened for the first and hopefully only time
last night -- was when we were driving home from picking up the kids at
about 5:30, it was dark, and I had forgotten to turn the lights on.
I could see just fine with the DRLs; however, I'm sure traffic behind
me couldn't see me as well w/o the tailllights on. I only nioticed it
about 3-4 miles later, when I looked down and saw my instrument cluster.
Or rather, didn't see it.  And I had passed a coupla the local constabulary,
too...

> Only downside was when I drove to Boston that summer everyone kept
> reminding me that I had my headlights on in the daytime. :)  I assume they
> are common enough down there now that you don't get that any more.

Sheesh, how ironic that you were being reminded of your headlights by
the same folks who *pride* themselves on not using turn signals.
Not that that is a pet peeve of mine, oh no...

BTW, Happy Turkey Day to all the US listmembers!  Remember not to spill
gravy from your T-Day leftovers on the upholstery ofyer Oldses!



Tim Churchill  tchurchill@draper.com  OCA #30327  Framingham, MA
- ----------------------------------------------------------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, new a.k.a 'Old Gold'
'98 VW Passat GLS Wagon, a.k.a. 'der Kinderwagen'

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 08:50:37 -0500
From: "Frank Montero" <parc@erols.com>
Subject: Re: 1985 442 FOR IMMEDIATE SALE

In a message dated 98-11-23 14:36:33 EST, you write:

<< WHITE/GRAY EXT.
BLUE INT.
T-TOPS
EXCELLENT CONDITION
$3300/NEG. WILLING TO NEGOTIATE BEST OFFER!
MUST SELL WITHIN NEXT 3 WEEKS!!!

I CAN BE REACHED @ 516-373-4457
LOCATED IN SUFFOLK COUNTY, NY (LONG ISLAND)
  >>
Tell me some details of the car like mileage, condition of interior,
condition
of drivetrain such as trans and engine.  What type of rear end, posi
non-posi
what size gear and what options.

Thanks in advance
Mark Prince
from Detroit, MI



Here are the answers to your questions Mark,

66K, Excellent condition in and out. T-Tops, 307 5L engine, 200 4R tranny
(all seals replaced 3 months ago), exhaust done (8/98) from the cat back
2.5" stainless steel w/chrome tips, dual wide pipes, posi rear (12 bolt)

If you have any more question Mark I'd be glad to answer them.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 08:53:43 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: wont turn off.]

>excuse me??? diode? Box??? I have my MSD and worked with two >others and
NONE of them had a diode in the box.

Not in the box......WITH the box.  The diode is in the little plastic bag
with the screws and wires etc. that come with the MSD unit (box).

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 09:08:51 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400

...4speed for fun
auto for race
_____

Ken, that's excellent back-to-back comparison data, and most of what you
wrote is pretty much right on.  The only thing I need to point out is that
a normally aspirated vehicle's performance is dependent on air conditions
at the time.  Hard-core racers will measure weather conditions during a run
and normalize all times to standard temperature and pressure when using
these runs to compare modifications.  (Remember that "scientific method"
they taught you in high school).  I'm certainly not trying to discredit
your data, but to be completely accurate, we'd need to know the air
conditions at the time.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 09:14:36 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Vista Cruiser's similar cousins... anybody?

Did the Buick equivalent back then (SportWagon?) ever
have the moonroof thing?
________

Yep, same years as the VC.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 06:37:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Rechroming

Can anyone tell me if this is a fair price for rechroming bumpers on a
69 Olds Cutlass S? Fargo Bumper, the only place here in town, said
that they will do the front bumper for $300 and the rear bumper for
$370. I don't want to get screwed over. I know that they do good work,
but if the price is too steep, it's not worth it.

Thanks,
Del




==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 09:20:15 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Re: DRL's

This past Saturday was spent Junque Yarding for Olds parts with Don Sowers,
Chris Smetana, and a friend of Chris' who I can't remember the name of.  While
out in the yard scanning for Olds parts I pointed out a 56 Buick Roadmaster
with a running light mounted in the center of the grill.  These were a mid
60's add on light that was suppose to function as the new DRL's.  Quite a few
folks installed them at the time, but they soon faded away from use.  They
were really nothing more than a white clearance light at best, not nearly as
noticable as the new DRL's.  Along this line, motorcycles in Indiana have been
required to run with the headlight on for visibility for many years.  The
DRL's do help as do the third brake lights, they just don't always look cool.
Needless to say, I will not be adding either to my Olds unless I am forced to.
One of those freedom of choice things in my opinion.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 09:40:24 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: trim rechroming ?

Absolutely outrageous. The  Gentleman in Arizona will take your original
bumper no matter how messed up, straighten it and chrome for $250.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
(518) 622-0376
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

ICQ# 5209322 = "CC-IROC-SS"
Personal ICQ Communication Center:
http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322

Custom Conversion Proto-type:
CC-IROC-SS-#00001 =  "Quincy"
http://members.tripod.com/CC_IROC_SS/
Soon to be: www.CC-IROC-SS.com

The CC-IROC-SS Project Delphi Forum:
http://forums.delphi.com/m/main.asp?sigdir=CC_IROC_SS

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Brian Kerr
Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 1998 6:13 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: trim rechroming ?


Greg:
    I have heard good and bad about Cambridge Chrome
(Just 2 minutes from my house) On bumpers, the price he quoted me over the
phone
was $625 for front and rear, but many people have said that the price goes
up
once the parts get to his place. One of the guys in my car club paid 650 for
the
front and 550 for the back of his 71 442, and never tell them that 'youre in
no
hurry'. Some people say they do good work, several have said they will never
get
them to do another piece due to poor quality. Just passing on the warnings
from
locals.

Brian Kerr

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 09:43:23 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Rechroming

Can anyone tell me if this is a fair price for rechroming bumpers on a
69 Olds Cutlass S? Fargo Bumper, the only place here in town, said
that they will do the front bumper for $300 and the rear bumper for
$370. I don't want to get screwed over. I know that they do good work,
but if the price is too steep, it's not worth it.

Thanks,
Del
_________

I just sent my 69 442 bumpers off to Desert Dog for rechroming.  While I
certainly can't yet talk to their quality (having not seen the results
yet), their price is $225 each (for rechroming your cores, $250 each for
exchange with their cores, which saves time if you're in a hurry).
Shipping to them was $10 each on UPS, return (with proper packing and
insurance) is $20 each.  Total ($510) is still significantly less than your
quote, and DDAP uses a triple plate process (copper, nickel, chrome).
Turnaround time was quoted at about 3 weeks, and to be honest, it's a lot
more convenient for me to go to UPS than the nearest chrome shop.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 09:49:50 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: DRL's

...One of those freedom of choice things in my opinion.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2
__________

AMEN!  First, I _always_ have my lights on in low-visibility conditions
(rain, dusk, etc).  I resent the need for big gov't to do it for me.  Plus,
I'm sorry, but the lights look ridiculous in the daytime.  Besides, we're
talking about a new, full size crewcab dually here - something only
slightly smaller than my house.  I'm not _real_ worried about being seen
under clear, daylight conditions (especially if I do the flame paint job I
want...).  (Olds content:  this is obviously the truck used to haul
Oldsmoparts and tow a car trailer...)

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 09:58:07 EST
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Olds EFI

speeking of EFI if any of you guys want i have a holley pro fuel injection for
sale 900cfm analog $450 complete harness,sensors,pump,cpu,throttle
body,directions.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 10:03:17 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: 4-speed Vs. TH400

Very well put Gary.
Sometimes I find myself 'pretending' with my automatic. You know, run it up
hard to 5000 rpm, let off a little(holding 5000), then reach down and push
it into 2nd then get on it again.
Donny

> ----------
> From: 	<GJC> CC-IROC-SS[SMTP:gjcouse@francomm.com]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Wednesday, November 25, 1998 12:44 AM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	RE: 4-speed Vs. TH400
> 
> My original intent on this thread was the interaction between the car and
> the senses of power when throwing the gears. Not who was first down the
> line, nor even the line it's self.
> 
> Not every car thrill is judged by the strip times. How about that crisp
> fall
> day. With piles of falling leaves flying about as you pass through them.
> Hitting the swoops and shakiness of a back country road pushing the limits
> of your street tire. Romping up and down through the gearing as your
> adrenaline escalates. I've never felt that "man and machine commitment"
> behind an automatic.
> 
> -----Regards,
> 
> Gary J. Couse
> Couse Customs
> mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com
> 
> ICQ# 5209322 = "CC-IROC-SS"
> Personal ICQ Communication Center:
> http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322
> 
> Custom Conversion Proto-type:
> CC-IROC-SS-#00001 =  "Quincy"
> http://members.tripod.com/CC_IROC_SS/
> Soon to be: http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
> 
> The CC-IROC-SS Project Delphi Forum:
> http://forums.delphi.com/m/main.asp?sigdir=CC_IROC_SS
> 
> G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
> For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
> http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
> mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 10:02:22 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Re: Rechroming

I can tell you from personal experience, just call Bob <I think that's his
name> at Desert Dog Parts. He can probably fix you up at less cost and
you'll likely have your bumpers within 2 weeks.

I bought some for my '68 442 and couldn't be happier. $250 each plus
shipping. Exchange, of course. I even checked one of Bob's references and to
quote the guy, "Bob's bumpers are not PERFECT show car quality, but better
than original factory bumpers". I agree. They even come with a 3 year warranty.

I shipped my old ones from the local Mailboxes etc. and didn't box them or
anything. <That gave me the opportunity to flirt with the lady who runs the
place-now she wants to see the car ;-) > Just stick the to address directly
on the old bumpers and send them regular ups ground. I think it cost me
about $50. Bob sent me the new ones well wrapped and boxed for a shipping
charge of $40!. When you talk to him, he'll explain what you need to do to
ship them out.

Mine went out on a Thursday, got new ones the following Wednesday.

You can get his e-mail and number from the classified section of 442.com.
Knowing him, he'll probably contact you from your post to the list.

If you like, I can e-mail you some pictures of mine on the car.

Chris.

At 09:43 AM 11/25/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Can anyone tell me if this is a fair price for rechroming bumpers on a
>69 Olds Cutlass S? Fargo Bumper, the only place here in town, said
>that they will do the front bumper for $300 and the rear bumper for
>$370. I don't want to get screwed over. I know that they do good work,
>but if the price is too steep, it's not worth it.
>
>Thanks,
>Del
>_________
>
>I just sent my 69 442 bumpers off to Desert Dog for rechroming.  While I
>certainly can't yet talk to their quality (having not seen the results
>yet), their price is $225 each (for rechroming your cores, $250 each for
>exchange with their cores, which saves time if you're in a hurry).
>Shipping to them was $10 each on UPS, return (with proper packing and
>insurance) is $20 each.  Total ($510) is still significantly less than your
>quote, and DDAP uses a triple plate process (copper, nickel, chrome).
>Turnaround time was quoted at about 3 weeks, and to be honest, it's a lot
>more convenient for me to go to UPS than the nearest chrome shop.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 07:09:24 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: console extension harness

> Can someone tell me line of travel for the
> console extension harness in my 67'? Does
> it travel down the tranny tunnel or across
> the floor ?

I can't specifically answer for a '67, but in every other GM car
I've worked on, the wiring extends down the tunnel (well, inside
the car either above or below the carpeting under the console);
it plugs into the main dash wiring harness.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 10:10:41 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: console extension harness

...in every other GM car
I've worked on, the wiring extends down the tunnel
_______

Yep, same for a 67.  The connector in the dash harness that the console
plugs into should be in the vicinity of the radio.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 07:16:12 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: daytime running lights

>shang@connect.net wrote:
>> 
>> Andrew C. Green wrote:
>> >
>> > > Well, being the non-conformist of the bunch, I'd like to know how
>> > > to _disable_ the DRLs.  
>
>> The DRL's can be disabled by removing the fuse for there circuit.
>> Consult the owner's manual for fuse location. It is an isolated 
circuit
>> and will not effect anything else.

Can we watch the attributions a little better when quoting people,
please? I didn't write a single word of this above and don't agree 
with it either. I'm not trying to start a flamewar over this but you
know what they say about how your words live on forever on the
Internet...

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 07:30:29 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Vista Cruiser's similar cousins... anybody?

> Yep, the Buick Sportwagon used the VC body with the roof windows,
> rear sun visors, etc., but a Buick front and rear end and interior.
> Haven't seen one of them in years....

Okay, how would you like to see _two_ of them right now?

http://www.stationwagon.com/gallery/1964_Buick_Skylark.html

http://www.stationwagon.com/gallery/1968_Buick_SportWagon.html

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 07:43:28 -0600
From: <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: Pontiac Engines ( I know, I know)

DYeager535@aol.com wrote:
> 
>      I know this isn't really the place to ask, but obviously Olds owners are
> more organized than Pontiac owners : ) I now want to find info about the
> Pontiac 400. If anyone knows a site, or personally knows a lot about 
Pontiacs,
> please contact me. If this 403 is bad after the bore, I MAY try to go with a
> Pontiac 400..I have a car that at a later date it COULD go in. Thanks, Dorian


Dorian,

	Have a look at this link,

http://www.classicalpontiac.com

	They have a pretty good tech section and good links too. You can email
me privately, I have worked with Poncho in a previous life (when I was
in HS.)

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme
.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 10:50:12 -0200
From: BRIAN SHANKLE <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: Q-Jet on a 307

I bought the Haynes manual, which was a very good book but I don't know
enough about carbs to really be able to understand it.  It *seems* a bit
easier than Doug Roe's book and even includes a section on tweaking all
the performance you can safely tweak out of your Q-Jet (Hot Rod Custom
Cruiser).  Then again, I've pretty much always preferred Haynes' manuals
over any others.  Long story short, I no longer have a need for the book
and if you're interested it can be yours for the low low price of
sending me your mailing address.  It sure would be a shame to see this
book go to waste.
Brian Shankle
cshankle@home.com

Bill B. wrote:
> 
> My Q-Jet 307 powered 87 Custom Cruiser (167,000 miles) runs extremely
> rich for the first couple of minutes after a cold start. (Al Gore and my
> neighbors are not happy with me.) I suspect that the vacum break is not
> pulling the choke off fast enough.  Is it possible to replace the vacum
> break to cure this kind of problem? Is there a certain part number I
> need? I seem to remember that a really good down-to-earth Q-Jet book is
> available.  Can someone dredge up the name and author of the book?
> 
> Thanks....
> 
> Bill Bussell - Speedway, Indiana

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1625
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