Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1610


oldsmobile-digest     Thursday, November 19 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1610



Re: Rallye 350 stripes/location dimensions
Re: Olds Ads Web Page
Re: Olds Ads Web Page
Re: Brass: Good or Bad?
64 442 for sale (fwd)
Re: Olds Ads Web Page
Correct Speedo gear?
RE: Correct Speedo gear?
Re: SSII's again
Re: Brass: Good or Bad?
vacuum advance ?
Re: intersting spotting...
RE: 68-75+ Olds Parts
Re: Brass: Good or Bad?
Re: 75 350 mods
Stuff 4 sale
Rochester Carb
unsubscribe
Re: Rochester Carb
Re: Light Bulb Upgrade
RE: vacuum advance ?
Re: Craftsman tools
Re: Craftsman tools (was: replacing brake hose)
Leaving for a week or so...
Re: Craftsman tools (was: replacing brake hose)
To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca
Re: Olds Ads Web Page
Re: Body work and another question
Re: Correct Speedo gear?
SB rear main seal
RE: Correct Speedo gear?
Re: Correct Speedo gear(2.56 to 3.23)?
Re: Correct Speedo gear(2.56 to 3.23)?
Wheels
86 Cutlass wreck picture
Re: SB rear main seal
72 Cutlass tilt front end advice
Re: 86 Cutlass wreck picture
Re: SSII's again(thanks Joe)
Re: 86 Cutlass wreck picture
a quick question
Re: 86 Cutlass wreck picture
carz sheesh!  kinda long
Re: 86 Cutlass wreck picture
Re: Craftsman tools (was: replacing brake hose)
Re: SB rear main seal
Re: Cryogenic Bearings
Re: 86 Cutlass wreck picture
Re: SB rear main seal
72 Supreme FS
Re: SB rear main seal
Re: SB rear main seal
Cutlass wreck pictures

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 06:01:18 -0500
From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: Re: Rallye 350 stripes/location dimensions

Mark Thurman wrote:
> 
> <snip> >if the assembly manual gives pertinent dimensions of the stripe
> location. If it isn't in there, is there anything available??>
> 
> Mark,
> my cutlass assembly manual shows the stripe locations on pages 398 & 399
> (original dwg: part # 404411 pg104 &106) these are in the back of my book
> (total # of pages = 405, right before the pace car striping info).  Mine
> aren't good enough quality to scan or they'd be on their way....sorry.
> 
> mt

	Mark,
	Got the info yesterday afternoon, plus, found more info when I got
home. thanks
         ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
               Mark Cornea (Dr. Decal)  OCA# 4903
                             1970 W30 (red)

                     <mailto:drdecal@wwnet.net>
                     <mailto:mcornea@ford.com>

                    Visit http://www.drdecal.com
        ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 04:16:38 -0800 (PST)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Ads Web Page

- ---Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu> wrote:
>
> Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> > 
> > I don't know if this page belongs to someone here, but I stumbled
on it
> > the other day and would recommend it. It has excellent scans of
Olds ads
> > from '69 up to the early '90s. Most of them are for full-sizers. The
> > address is:
> > 
> > http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/6603/gallery/oldsads.html
> > 
> ---Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu> wrote:
> OH! I see! Skip RIGHT from '72 to '74! I see how ya are!!!
> 
>-------Yeah...know what ya mean....got plenty of those BIG cruiser
wagons....but only 1 of the G-body ones...and of course it's a
deisel!!! :)
==
John McJunkin ( The Sman ) mailto:super442@yahoo.com  
  ICQ # 16956740      Lithia Springs, Ga.
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442 
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts    
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 08:27:42 -0500
From: CCAC Network User cgc74 <cgc74@unix1.ccac.edu>
Subject: Re: Olds Ads Web Page

You have found the owner .  Sorry I don't have any '73 Olds or G-Body
Wagons(except Diesel), but All I had to work with was National
Geographic.  I Scanned every Olds ad I could find.  I do know where I
can find some '73's though if anybody has any old Motor Trend's, all I
have are black and white reproductions :-(  If anybody has them I'd be
happy to post them.  I also think my grandfather has a stash of '60's
Popular Mechanics in his garage somewhere if I can ever find them
- -Chris Carlson

S-MAN wrote:
> 
> ---Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu> wrote:
> >
> > Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> > >
> > > I don't know if this page belongs to someone here, but I stumbled
> on it
> > > the other day and would recommend it. It has excellent scans of
> Olds ads
> > > from '69 up to the early '90s. Most of them are for full-sizers. The
> > > address is:
> > >
> > > http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/6603/gallery/oldsads.html
> > >
> > ---Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu> wrote:
> > OH! I see! Skip RIGHT from '72 to '74! I see how ya are!!!
> >
> >-------Yeah...know what ya mean....got plenty of those BIG cruiser
> wagons....but only 1 of the G-body ones...and of course it's a
> deisel!!! :)
> ==
> John McJunkin ( The Sman ) mailto:super442@yahoo.com
>   ICQ # 16956740      Lithia Springs, Ga.
> TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442
> 1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
> http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
> Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
> -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 10:26:59 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Brass: Good or Bad?

I heard that brass is not the thing to use when welding a metal piece onto
a car. I heard tha brass will crack and flake off at a later time. Is this
true?

Pettrix@prodigy.net
__________

Uh, you can't "weld" steel with brass.  Welding involves actually melting
the parent metal, either with or without a compatible filler rod, and
allowing it to cool and fuse into a homogeneous part.  Brass is used in
brazing, which is more like soldering, but at a higher temperature and
using the brass instead of the lead/tin solder.  The parent metal is not
melted in either brazing or soldering - thus much less heat is used.  A
brazed joint is much stronger than a soldered joint, but still a long way
from a properly welded joint.  The lower heat of brazing makes it good for
some types of sheet metal repair (like brazing up trim holes where the trim
will no longer be installed), as the lower heat produces less warpage.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 11:37:36 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: 64 442 for sale (fwd)

Think this just went to me, not the list... forwarding.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Rick Copithorne <rcopithorne@usa.net>
Subject: 64 442 for sale

64 Olds 442
1971 350 with Goodies
All new Suspension all around
New Rims and Tires
Car is Custom Paint (needs some work)
Interior needs to be refinished.
Car can be seen at.

http://www.442.com/copithorne.html

also at Trevor Lee's site. Askin 4,000. At this time any serious offers will
not be refused. Winter is coming and I do not want the car to go to waste. Car
does need a starter and a steering knuck. Reply to email here and I will give
more details..



1964 Olds 442
1987 Monte Carlo SS

____________________________________________________________________
Get free e-mail and a permanent address at http://www.netaddress.com/?N=1

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 11:40:45 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Olds Ads Web Page

Hey, what's wrong with the senior cars? ;-)  The page is very well done,
especially the quality of the scans. I have a '78 Holiday 88 ad in an old
MT that I am going to get scanned. I only wish I had the car, not the ad.
;-)

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 10:48:59 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Correct Speedo gear?

Hello list.

While my primary is G-body, the question warrants main list quest.

I'm looking for an online reference for Speedo drive gear ratios. I've been
to my local Olds dealer. They pulled up the info, "So, do you want a yellow
or red one"? "What" I said. Seems there color coded but Olds had no
conversion chart. I swapped the rear axle assembly, (Karl?), from a 2.14 to
a 3.08 Posi. The car currently has 307ci and 200-METRIC trans. I believe my
speedo is aprox. 25% to fast. I don't recall if the dealer listed teeth
count per color.
I also haven't removed the originals to check their colors. Huummm, Any
suggestions.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
Rt-1, Box-615
Purling, N.Y.
   12470

mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

ICQ# 5209322
Personal ICQ Communication Center:
http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322

Custom Cutlass Prototype;
CC-IROC-SS-#00001 =  "Quincy"
http://members.tripod.com/CC_IROC_SS/
Soon to be: www.CC-IROC-SS.com

Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List:
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/

Oldsmobile Club of America:
http://www.oldsclub.org

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 11:09:30 -0500
From: "Worthington, David L" <david_worthington@reyrey.com>
Subject: RE: Correct Speedo gear?

I may be able to help on this one....especially since I work for a computer
vendor for car dealerships...

When looking for speedo gears - They can access Charts in their electronic
parts catalogs and see which gears are used for specific
model/gear/tire/trans combos. These tables are a great help for seeing if
only one gear needs to be changed when the gears are changed, which is most
common when going from one standard factory ratio to another.  It does list
a part number for the drive and driven gears, their color, and if it doesnt
have a tooth count in that table, it is at the bottom of the section.  

Bottom line, if you cant get the info from that dealer, move on.  They
probably dont know where to look.

I installed these things and trained the dealer personnel on them....a great
job for a gearhead!

Dave Worthington



- -----Original Message-----
From: <GJC> CC-IROC-SS [mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com]
Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 1998 10:49 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Cc: G-Body List
Subject: Correct Speedo gear?


Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List - http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/

Hello list.

While my primary is G-body, the question warrants main list quest.

I'm looking for an online reference for Speedo drive gear ratios. I've been
to my local Olds dealer. They pulled up the info, "So, do you want a yellow
or red one"? "What" I said. Seems there color coded but Olds had no
conversion chart. I swapped the rear axle assembly, (Karl?), from a 2.14 to
a 3.08 Posi. The car currently has 307ci and 200-METRIC trans. I believe my
speedo is aprox. 25% to fast. I don't recall if the dealer listed teeth
count per color.
I also haven't removed the originals to check their colors. Huummm, Any
suggestions.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
Rt-1, Box-615
Purling, N.Y.
   12470

mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

ICQ# 5209322
Personal ICQ Communication Center:
http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322

Custom Cutlass Prototype;
CC-IROC-SS-#00001 =  "Quincy"
http://members.tripod.com/CC_IROC_SS/
Soon to be: www.CC-IROC-SS.com

Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List:
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/

Oldsmobile Club of America:
http://www.oldsclub.org

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com


______________________________________________________________________
To unsubscribe, write to olds_gbody-unsubscribe@listbot.com
Start Your Own FREE Email List at http://www.listbot.com/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 11:38:20 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: SSII's again

 I have some 14x8 rims with bolt on centers. They look like
SSII. Can anyone tell me what they were off of? I can check the rim maybe
of a
code or something?.......THANKS.........Scott
____________

Are you sure they're 8" wide and not 7"?  Note that the width measurement
should be taken between the inside surfaces where the tire bead sits, not
the maximum outside-to-outside measurement of the rim.  If they are, in
fact, 8", they would be custom made, as Olds never made 8" wide versions of
SSIIs or SSIIIs.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 08:47:09 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Brass: Good or Bad?

At 02:14 AM 11/18/98 -0600, you wrote:
>I heard that brass is not the thing to use when welding a metal piece onto
>a car. I heard tha brass will crack and flake off at a later time. Is this
>true?

If the brazing is done right ,with no cold joints it will never flake off.
In rare cases, like a lap joint with thin metel, brazing is actually 
stronger than a weld.

Are you doing bodywork or frame repair? I wouldn't even concider 
brazing for a frame repair.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 11:10:43 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: vacuum advance ?

Oldsmophiles,

Given the following:
Points distributor with performance recurve kit
Timing presently set (initial & mechanical) advanced 19 degrees at 1500 rpm
Adjustable vacuum advance

Question regards adjustable vacuum advance.
Any recommendations as to what to set adj. vac. advance for combined tota? 
(initial + mech + vac)?

Thanks,

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 09:18:37 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: intersting spotting...

>> It was a 1973 Cutlass... convertible!
[...]
> Definitely had a fabric top... was a real convertible.  Was a
> very nice conversion... wonder who it was done by?

I'll take a stab at it... back then I can think of two companies
doing semi-factory-authorized mods: Cars & Concepts, and American
Sunroof Corp. (ASC). I think ASC did a lot of T-tops as well,
and maybe even that Toro with the power T-tops from 1977 (?).
I have no more details than that.

I've seen quite a few Cutlass Ciera convertibles as well from the
mid-'80's, but those don't look as good because they require a
honking big perimeter frame for reinforcement of the unibody that's
visible along the lower edges below the rocker panels.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 10:36:28 -0700
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: RE: 68-75+ Olds Parts

List,

In regards to the message I sent yesterday concerning Jim's response to
e-mails, I at this time withdraw all my statements.  To you, cnc40@aol.com,
and anyone else who has ordered parts from Jim via e-mail in the last month
or so: if you haven't received your parts yet, give him a call.  His e-mail
program went berzerk (Microsoft Outlook.  Any questions?), and he lost all
his mail (Same thing happened to me with Outlook, and I'm still using it.  I
must be loco).  He's also spent a lot of time out of town in the past month,
and the orders have been stacking up.  I wish I lived in VA so I could help
him out... and pick over all his treasures. ;)

Anyone who has ever dealt with Jim knows that he's a great guy.  I don't
think you could deal with Jim and not end up being his friend.  I would like
to apologize to Jim and the list at this time for making those comments
yesterday.  I hope no one took them seriously.

Blaine

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 12:11:25 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Brass: Good or Bad?

The brazing is for bodywork.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Brass: Good or Bad?
> Date: Wednesday, November 18, 1998 10:47 AM
> 
> At 02:14 AM 11/18/98 -0600, you wrote:
> >I heard that brass is not the thing to use when welding a metal piece
onto
> >a car. I heard tha brass will crack and flake off at a later time. Is
this
> >true?
> 
> If the brazing is done right ,with no cold joints it will never flake
off.
> In rare cases, like a lap joint with thin metel, brazing is actually 
> stronger than a weld.
> 
> Are you doing bodywork or frame repair? I wouldn't even concider 
> brazing for a frame repair.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 13:18:34 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: 75 350 mods

In a message dated 11/17/98 5:21:11 PM EST, mahahn@fuse.net writes:

<< I am always open to suggestions from this marvelous group of Olds
 enthusiasts. >>
Hey Mark,
If  you haven't already, how about putting on dual exhausts. That'll boost it
somewhat.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv. (duals)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 13:32:04 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Stuff 4 sale

PLEASE!
E me direct and
I'll get back to you A.S.A.P
 
 Robert Schinkel
 docbob@caninet.com
 
 1966  B cylinder heads  (bare heads) >   $100
 
 1967  C cylinder heads with small heat riser hole>   $200
          Magnufluxed  -  complete
 
 1968

  442 grill emblem >   $40
 Nos Side marker light gaskets>   $10 all
 Nos front bumper rubbers (corner by fender)>  $30
 Ashtray Door >  $8
 Convertible top cylinders > $25 ea.
 Rear defroster switch > $20
 Motor mount heat shield > $8
 Conv. Top latches  >20.pr
 Conv. Vent windows with frames good chrome incl. glass  >$75.pr.
 Reverse light lens good condition > $10
 442 Carb  #7028251 >$100
 442 Air Cleaner w/lower tube>$75
 Intake for 442 398662 with choke> $50
 Choke pulldown only >$20
 Power Antenna Switch  >$20
 Plastic headlight doors > $225
 
 1969

 Wiper switch  > $20
 Radio plate (uncut)> $20
 Ashtray Doors   > $8
 Convertible top cylinders > $25
 Convertible Trunk Lid rustfree  > $150 
 Hood Hinges > $20pr
 442 Ashtray door with woodgrain Exc.>$10
 Motor mount heat shield  >$8
 glove box door - black w/woodgrain>$20
 Conv. Top latches >$20.pr
 Vacuum trunk switch >$20
 Taillight lens and some housings >$15 ea
 442 Taillight lenses $20ea
 69-72      Power window motors >  $20ea.
 
 1970
  Southern Trunk Lid (Holiday Coupe)  > $175 exc.
 Tail light lens (Cutlass) >  $15 ea
 Tail light lens (Supreme) > $20 ea
 Nos 455 Oil Dipstick tubes  > $20
 Lower Dash AC Vents (none 8 Track)>$100
 Dual Gate Shifter(shifter only)>$150
 Wheel Well Chrome (HC) complete set> $100
 Rear liscense plate brackets  > $10ea.
 Nos pass. side headlight frame(plastic)>  $75
 8 Track Complete (E me for details)>$100
 Nos fender script "Cutlass"  >  $25 ea
 Nos Horn Contact (sport wheel)  >  $25 ea
 F85 fender script >  $30 pr.
 Dash Plaques (Plastic around gauges W/ wood grain)   >   $20
 Convertible top cylinder > $25
 Hood Hinges > $15
 Motor mount heat shield> $5
 Conv. Top latches> $20.pr
 455 heads E casting> $100
 Convertible Top Switch  > $60
 1 NOS rear Wheel well Molding>$50
 69-72      Power window motors> $25 ea.
 
 1971 & 1972
 Front bumper directional lens> $8 ea.
 72 fender mount antenna - complete> $20
 Tail light lens > $12 ea. or $40 for set of 4
 Trunk lid script "O-L-D-S-M-O-B-I-L-E">  $20
 4-4-2 emblems set for 442 Grills >$30
 Dash Plaques (Wood Grain area around gauges) >$10
 Convertible top cylinders  > $25
 Hood Hinges   >$15
 Rear ¼ panel supreme extensions (supremes only)>$10
 Motor mount heat shield  >$5
 Conv. Top latches  >$20.pr
  69-72      Power window motors > $20 ea.
 
 1973
 Carb         7043256  >$40
 455 4BBL with crank drilled for 4 speed> $350

1974 & 75
Southern Fenders > $100ea.
442/Hurst Hood > $150 exc.

Shipping is extra 
Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 15:57:28 -0500
From: David Booker <dbooker@mindspring.com>
Subject: Rochester Carb

Greetings all:

I need to replace the "filter to carb" fuel line on my '69 400ci
w/Rochester quad.  The original has a slight kink in one of the bends.

I got the replacement line from Inline Tube, but am having trouble removing
the old line. I am exerting some significant pressure on the connection at
the carb and it hasn't budged.  Before I apply even more pressure to the
fitting, I was just wondering if I was missing something. Is it reverse
threaded (can't imagine why)? Or, is it just really locked in there after
all these years. Finally, will I need anything else, other than the
replacement line, to finish the job ("O" rings or the like)?

Thanks in advance. I can't tell you how much I have learned from this forum.


David Booker
Comstock Net Services
Atlanta
770-887-3261

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 14:06:20 PST8PDT
From: "Robert F. Feitt" <rff@orca.physics.ucsb.edu>
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe

Robert F. Feitt
Department of Physics
University of California
Santa Barbara, CA 93106
(805)893-2740 voice
(805)893-3307 fax
rff@orca.physics.ucsb.edu

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 13:24:00 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Rochester Carb

David Booker wrote:
> 
> Greetings all:
> 
> I need to replace the "filter to carb" fuel line on my '69 400ci
> w/Rochester quad.  The original has a slight kink in one of the bends.
> 
> I got the replacement line from Inline Tube, but am having trouble removing
> the old line. I am exerting some significant pressure on the connection at
> the carb and it hasn't budged.  Before I apply even more pressure to the
> fitting, I was just wondering if I was missing something. Is it reverse
> threaded (can't imagine why)? Or, is it just really locked in there after
> all these years. Finally, will I need anything else, other than the
> replacement line, to finish the job ("O" rings or the like)?



David,

The threads on both ends of the line are conventional
right hand threads.  It sounds like somebody has
just overtightened the line.
Use a 5/8" line wrench on the fitting 
and hold the carb inlet with a 1" wrench.    
Both ends of the line have a double flare which make the 
seal.  No o-rings or sealer is required (nor should be
used). 

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 17:22:55 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Light Bulb Upgrade

In a message dated 11/11/98 8:07:50 AM Pacific Standard Time, Thomas_Martin-
WLTM07@css.mot.com writes:

<< Something some of you Olds heads out there should do, just for safety.
 Change the light bulbs in you ride!  Why?  The old 1156 and 1157's just
 aren't bright as they could be, so swap them for the 2056 and 2057.  I think
 there is a 2357 out there too.  I do not know how many more candlepower, but
 it cannot hurt to try.  There is another if you have room, like for floor
 lights, use the 92 inplace of the 196's.  MUCH brighter, at least 200%
 brighter.  My wife can see the floor of the car when she opens the door now.
 May be able to be used in marker lights if you want them brighter. >>

      I know this is old news, but something was brought to my attention about
this. With the extra light comes extra heat, right? I can easily see how,
especially the interior lights on the G-bodies, that the fixtures would melt.
My dome light was melted when I bought it. My friend tried the 2057/2056's in
his older car, that had the 1156's and 1157's, and it shorted the system. In a
'78 GM vehicle. That may have been a fluke, but the heat issue I think is
valid in the plastic fixtures.   Just my opinion,  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 18:18:40 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: vacuum advance ?

Well my total is about 33 deg at 3000 + .
I've got ~ 10.50 : 1   455 with stock HEI (curved).  I had to reduce timing
2 deg so I could run pump gas.  So,  the 'famed' 36 deg total would be THE
MAX. you would want to go.

Donny 

> ----------
> From: 	hitson@i1.net[SMTP:hitson@i1.net]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Wednesday, November 18, 1998 12:10 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	vacuum advance ?
> 
> Oldsmophiles,
> 
> Given the following:
> Points distributor with performance recurve kit
> Timing presently set (initial & mechanical) advanced 19 degrees at 1500
> rpm
> Adjustable vacuum advance
> 
> Question regards adjustable vacuum advance.
> Any recommendations as to what to set adj. vac. advance for combined tota?
> 
> (initial + mech + vac)?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> roger hitson
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 17:07:28 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
Subject: Re: Craftsman tools

well the us air force uses snap-on as does boeing and lockheed ... KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, November 17, 1998 9:40 PM
Subject: Re: Craftsman tools


>At 06:27 PM 11/17/98 -0500, you wrote:
>>
>> > that just an opinion the aviation industry uses snap on almost
exclusively
>> > for a reason
>
>
>No. most tools used in aviation industry are Proto and Armstrong
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 17:15:34 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
Subject: Re: Craftsman tools (was: replacing brake hose)

I hear you ed they never question the many broken things I bring in snap-on
never did either but there was the wait or drive it over to the distribution
center (30 minutes) but never had to replace anything right now just sockets
every once in a while plus all the spares
were always available and bludgeoning a tool dealer is legal in some
states:)
- -----Original Message-----
From: Edward Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, November 17, 1998 7:32 PM
Subject: Re: Craftsman tools (was: replacing brake hose)


>Like you, I think I have every brand of tool ever made, from Snap-On to
>Taiwan industries. There's no wrench better than a snap-on wrench. There's
>no wrench more EXPENSIVE than a Snap-On wrench. I settle for Matco (still
>expensive), Mac (same thing), and Craftsman. At least with Craftsman, I
>don't have to chase down a truck or wait a few days to get my broken tools
>replaced. I HAVE broken MANY MANY MANY Snap-On tool, though not nearly as
>easily as some other brands. Interestingly enough, the Snap-On dealer
>scrutinizes my broken tools and sometimes gives me trouble on the
>replacement: "You were using it as a pry bar weren't you?"  "No but I did
>bludgeon and stab a snide, smart-aleck tool dealer with it." That works.
>I feel like with the price of professional quality tools, you should be
able
>to beat them with a 10 lb. sledge hammer if you want to (and still get them
>warranteed). Sears NEVER EVER questions how I broke it. They through it in
a
>box and give me a new one. My .02 from someone who has made my living with
>my tools.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>To: Comid <Comid>
>Date: Tuesday, November 17, 1998 6:16 PM
>Subject: Re: Craftsman tools (was: replacing brake hose)
>
>
>>
>>Received: from halifax.chebucto.ns.ca [192.75.95.75] by jellico.com with
>smtp
>> id BCBABOCD ; Tue, 17 Nov 1998 18:16:30 -0500
>>Received: by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca id <36946-699>; Tue, 17 Nov 1998
>19:14:59 -0400
>>Received: from pm05sm.pmm.cw.net ([208.159.126.154]:4450 "EHLO
>pm05sm.pmm.cw.net" ident: "TIMEDOUT") by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca with ESMTP
>id <37169-700>; Tue, 17 Nov 1998 19:13:41 -0400
>>Received: from speedy (usr49-dialup52.mix1.WillowSprings.cw.net
>[166.55.47.52])
>> by PM05SM.PMM.CW.NET (PMDF V5.2-29 #33509)
>> with SMTP id <0F2L00AIZ9T9FX@PM05SM.PMM.CW.NET> for
>oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca;
>> Tue, 17 Nov 1998 23:12:51 +0000 (GMT)
>>Date: Tue, 17 Nov 1998 17:09:45 -0600
>>From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
>>Subject: Re: Craftsman tools (was: replacing brake hose)
>>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>>Message-id: <004b01be127f$610ad900$03000004@speedy>
>>X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3
>>X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.1
>>X-Priority: 3
>>X-MSMail-priority: Normal
>>X-Orcpt: rfc822;"|/csuite/etc/majordomo/wrapper resend -l oldsmobile -h
>chebucto.ns.ca oldsmobile-mml"
>>Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
>>Precedence: bulk
>>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>>
>>yeah joe that is handy as the dickens on sunday afternoon but I have
>>duplicates of everything from just about every supplier mac, snap-on,
>matco,
>>wright, s&k
>>proto, craftsman, cornwell (now defunct), master mechanic, and even
thorsen
>>all are guaranteed for life
>>some are very expensive but still the amount of skin and damaged parts
>saved
>>have been worth it and given the funds I would replace them all with the
>>equivalent snap-on products  now   before you all send me hate mail I will
>>say it again the snap on has never ruined a bolt a fitting a nut or a part
>>the others have let me down on numerous occasions as well as the odd
broken
>>tool I also have never broken a snap-on tool
>>and have used and abused them as well as the others
>>I dont own stock in the company but with the amount of tools I have bought
>I
>>could have purchased a good chunk...........KK
>>also I realize not everyone can afford snap-on and that craftsman are very
>>good tools for the money I wouldnt use their ratchets or snap-on for that
>>matter the handels dont fit my hands (too small) need fat ones like S&K
for
>>that just an opinion the aviation industry uses snap on almost exclusively
>>for a reason...KK
>>69-442
>>69-W-31(rip)
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 18:42:31 -0500
From: Jason Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Leaving for a week or so...

I'll be unsubbing in another day or so for our Thanksgiving break...back in a 
few Mondays from now.  I'll still have limited access to e-mail, so if anyone 
wants to send correspondence, that's great!

Have a great turkey...

Jason K. Adcock
Blacksburg, VA
ICQ: 5860857
E-mail: jadcock@vt.edu
http://members.xoom.com/jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 15:49:03 PST
From: "Ryan D" <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Craftsman tools (was: replacing brake hose)

How about "KOBALT" i just get a set of wrenches and thay seem really 
good so fare,any of you guys used thame befor?

>
Thanks
      Ryan.


>I hear you ed they never question the many broken things I bring in 
snap-on
>never did either but there was the wait or drive it over to the 
distribution
>center (30 minutes) but never had to replace anything right now just 
sockets
>every once in a while plus all the spares
>were always available and bludgeoning a tool dealer is legal in some
>states:)
>--

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 19:24:03 -0500
From: Roger Nienberg <s002rwn@discover.wright.edu>
Subject: To:	oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BE1329.00873380
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

    What would be a good rear end for a 69 cutlass S with a 350 4 speed. =
I'm kickin up the 350 with the eldelbrock performer RPM package which is =
suposedly a 396 Hp setup. Also what rear ends are posi?


Roger Nienberg
69' Cutlass S Convertible
90' Ch**y Camaro RS

- ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BE1329.00873380
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; What would be a =
good rear end=20
for a 69 cutlass S with a 350 4 speed. I'm kickin up the 350 with the =
eldelbrock=20
performer RPM package which is suposedly a 396 Hp setup. Also what rear =
ends are=20
posi?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Roger Nienberg</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>69' Cutlass S =
Convertible</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>90' Ch**y Camaro =
RS</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01BE1329.00873380--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 16:31:15 -0800 (PST)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Ads Web Page

- ---Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca> wrote:
>
> Hey, what's wrong with the senior cars? ;-)  The page is very well
done,
> especially the quality of the scans. I have a '78 Holiday 88 ad in
an old
> MT that I am going to get scanned. I only wish I had the car, not
the ad.
> ;-)
> 
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia,
Canada
> 
> hey...I wasn't complaining...well ok I was...but wasn't cutting the
site down....it is very well done....I *LOVE* all years from the
"Karl" years and up...and thanks to the video I got from 
doug....I got some other favorite years....like some 30's-40's....saw
some nice ones...now I want a ~REAL OLD~ Olds :)

> 

==
John McJunkin ( The Sman ) mailto:super442@yahoo.com  
  ICQ # 16956740      Lithia Springs, Ga.
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442 
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts    
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 19:43:24 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Body work and another question

>About the Body work, can anybody reccommend a good beginners book for
>learning some body work?

Both Haynes and Petersen publish basic bodywork / painting books. Both are
good. Any big auto parts store will have one or the other.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 20:02:06 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Correct Speedo gear?

>
>I'm looking for an online reference for Speedo drive gear ratios.

Dunno about online, but the factory chassis manuals have a goodly section on
that...

>I swapped the rear axle assembly, (Karl?), from a 2.14 to
>a 3.08 Posi. The car currently has 307ci and 200-METRIC trans.


2.14 gears with code "OI" tranny (200C) would use these gears (in 1985):

Drive gear 19 teeth (yellow)
Tire Size             Driven Gear
- ---------------         -------------------
205/75R15         Orange, 35 teeth
215/75                Lt. Green, 34
225/70                Orange, 35
225/75                Lt Green, 34

3.08 ratio use these combo's:

Drive gear 19 teeth (yellow)  - lucky boy, no change
Tire size        Driven Gear
- -------------      ------------------
205/75           Lt. Blue, 45 teeth
215/75           Dk Grey, 44
225/70           Dk Grey, 44
225/75           Purple, 43

Assuming other years have the same speedo drive ratio (1000 turns/mile),
these are the numbers you need.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 20:07:38 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: SB rear main seal

     Which Ford rear main works on the SB (403) Olds? The FAQ says a 292, but
I've been told a 460 is the right one..FAQ says 460 is for BB Olds. Anyone
used one and know for sure? Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 20:12:29 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Correct Speedo gear?

Dave;

I don't remember if I stated in the original question but I'm also running
255-60-15" on rear. Does that change the factors. Original on Quincy were
the standard 14"

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
Rt-1, Box-615
Purling, N.Y.
   12470

mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

ICQ# 5209322
Personal ICQ Communication Center:
http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322

Custom Cutlass Prototype;
CC-IROC-SS-#00001 =  "Quincy"
http://members.tripod.com/CC_IROC_SS/
Soon to be: www.CC-IROC-SS.com

Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List:
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/

Oldsmobile Club of America:
http://www.oldsclub.org

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Dave Cullen
Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 1998 8:02 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Cc: G-Body List
Subject: Re: Correct Speedo gear?


>
>I'm looking for an online reference for Speedo drive gear ratios.

Dunno about online, but the factory chassis manuals have a goodly section on
that...

>I swapped the rear axle assembly, (Karl?), from a 2.14 to
>a 3.08 Posi. The car currently has 307ci and 200-METRIC trans.


2.14 gears with code "OI" tranny (200C) would use these gears (in 1985):

Drive gear 19 teeth (yellow)
Tire Size             Driven Gear
- ---------------         -------------------
205/75R15         Orange, 35 teeth
215/75                Lt. Green, 34
225/70                Orange, 35
225/75                Lt Green, 34

3.08 ratio use these combo's:

Drive gear 19 teeth (yellow)  - lucky boy, no change
Tire size        Driven Gear
- -------------      ------------------
205/75           Lt. Blue, 45 teeth
215/75           Dk Grey, 44
225/70           Dk Grey, 44
225/75           Purple, 43

Assuming other years have the same speedo drive ratio (1000 turns/mile),
these are the numbers you need.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 18:39:24 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Correct Speedo gear(2.56 to 3.23)?

Hmm, what about 3.23s and 2.56s.  I have a th400 that is from a '76 Delta 88
with 2.56 gears.  I put this trans. in my '81 Delta 88 that has a 3.23 rear
from a late '70s Buick LeSabre.  So basically, the speedo is geared for a
2.56 rear and now I need a gear for 3.23s.  Which one.  Local Mr.speedometer
want $200 to correct the speedo.  Forget that, If I have to I will just use
my tach as my speedo.  Anyway, what color do I order.  Please tell me that I
don't have to change the big gear.  If this makes a difference, the current
car is in KM/H (I don't think it does) and the '76 was in MPH.  The current
car is the '81 Delta 88.  Thanks a lot.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 21:02:18 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Correct Speedo gear(2.56 to 3.23)?

In a message dated 11/18/98 5:42:04 PM Pacific Standard Time, igor455@home.com
writes:

<< Hmm, what about 3.23s and 2.56s.  I have a th400 that is from a '76 Delta
88
 with 2.56 gears.   >>

      Maybe all this info should be put in the FAQ? I have a 400 that came out
of ?? with 2.56 rear gears, and 15's as opposed to 14's, and it's about 5%
off, but I bet lots of people have these questions, and the FAQ would be a
good place for this info, as there is lots of gear and axle swapping going on
out there.  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 18:23:34 -0800
From: "Greg" <gjackso1@san.rr.com>
Subject: Wheels

I am thinking about putting some 15X8's on my 72 Cutlass Supreme.  How do I
determine the backspacing for my car and what are some pro's or con's about
this size wheel on this car.  Thanks 
Greg

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 21:58:09 -0500
From: "jlabay" <jlabay@neo.rr.com>
Subject: 86 Cutlass wreck picture

Thought some of you might want to see how an 86 Cutlass holds up to a bad
wreck.  We towed this car in a few weeks back. Wreck was so bad the motor
was ripped from the frame and landed 100 yards away from the car.  In the
picture the motor is resting on the trunk.
Picture is at: http://home.neo.lrun.com/jlabay/86cutlass.jpg

Jason Labay (jlabay@neo.rr.com) Akron, OH
98 C2500
80 442 W-30
72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 22:00:47 -0500
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Re: SB rear main seal

>     Which Ford rear main works on the SB (403) Olds? The FAQ says a 292,
but
>I've been told a 460 is the right one..FAQ says 460 is for BB Olds. Anyone
>used one and know for sure? Dorian
>

The Ford FE block seal is for the BB and DIESEL small block.
The Ford Y block seal is for all other small blocks - works well


The General

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 22:12:17 -0500
From: "jlabay" <jlabay@neo.rr.com>
Subject: 72 Cutlass tilt front end advice

I am seriously considering ordering a tilt front end for a 72 Cutlass
Supreme from Dick Miller Racing.  I was curious as to how hard an install
would be and would I have to make or build the bracketing myself? Thanks

Jason Labay (jlabay@neo.rr.com) Akron, OH
98 C2500
80 442 W-30
72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 22:14:26 -0500
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Re: 86 Cutlass wreck picture

Forgive my morbid curiosity, but did anyone survive that?

- ----------
> From: jlabay <jlabay@neo.rr.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 86 Cutlass wreck picture
> Date: Wednesday, November 18, 1998 9:58 PM
> 
> Thought some of you might want to see how an 86 Cutlass holds up to a bad
> wreck.  We towed this car in a few weeks back. Wreck was so bad the motor
> was ripped from the frame and landed 100 yards away from the car.  In the
> picture the motor is resting on the trunk.
> Picture is at: http://home.neo.lrun.com/jlabay/86cutlass.jpg
> 
> Jason Labay (jlabay@neo.rr.com) Akron, OH
> 98 C2500
> 80 442 W-30
> 72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 22:17:25 EST
From: OLDS44272@aol.com
Subject: Re: SSII's again(thanks Joe)

<<<Are you sure they're 8" wide and not 7"?  Note that the width measurement
should be taken between the inside surfaces where the tire bead sits, not
the maximum outside-to-outside measurement of the rim.  If they are, in
fact, 8", they would be custom made, as Olds never made 8" wide versions of
SSIIs or SSIIIs.>>
                            I was wrong in my post. They are 14x7. I never
really did measure them till yesterday. I was told they were 14x8. On the back
side of the rim,you can see where the bolt hole part and the outer rim are
welded together. I thought they might be factory cuz chevy made an 8 inch wide
rim. I have the codes off of the rims. They are    887     H,    14x7  JJ,
made in canada M5,               3-23-3   ,  they have bolt on center caps and
the bolt hole pattern is 4.5 inches accross, center to center..........  It
also seems that the bolt on center cap rims have the date code on the inside
of the rim, between the tire bead area. My other set of rims with snap on caps
have the date code info. on the back side of the rim. (codes 6-23-84 and
4-24-81.)............................SCOTT

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 22:23:59 -0500
From: "jlabay" <jlabay@neo.rr.com>
Subject: Re: 86 Cutlass wreck picture

>Forgive my morbid curiosity, but did anyone survive that?

Nope, he died. Ejected from car then the car crushed him. For some odd
reason it seems that the worst wrecks we get are in Olds cars. Usually 80's
Cutlass' or Delta's. Guess the fast dangerous drivers like them here :-/

Jason Labay (jlabay@neo.rr.com) Akron, OH
98 C2500
80 442 W-30
72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 19:27:44 -0800 (PST)
From: Jon Murphy <jonamurphy@yahoo.com>
Subject: a quick question

hi

i have a quick question. are the olds 425 and cadillac 425 motors
interchangeable? how about the olds 454 and caddy 425? if not, how
much different are they? any info is greatly appreciated. thanks a lot.


murphy


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 19:43:12 -0800 (PST)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 86 Cutlass wreck picture

 Thought some of you might want to see how an 86 Cutlass holds up to a
bad
> > wreck.  We towed this car in a few weeks back. Wreck was so bad
the motor
> > was ripped from the frame and landed 100 yards away from the car. 
In the
> > picture the motor is resting on the trunk.
> > Picture is at: http://home.neo.lrun.com/jlabay/86cutlass.jpg

- ----------DDDAAAMMMNNNN.....that hurt....did the Ralley Pac survive?
        That must've been a really bad one...any details? Not trying
to be morbid...just wondering what other vehicle/object (obviously
solid) was involved.
 
==
John McJunkin ( The Sman ) mailto:super442@yahoo.com  
  ICQ # 16956740      Lithia Springs, Ga.
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442 
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts    
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 22:55:54 EST
From: MFATZII@aol.com
Subject: carz sheesh!  kinda long

 I was out in the country today drivin' to the job site when I saw what was to
be a half @ss attempt to a car lot.  This thing was out in the middle of
nowhere and had only about 18 cars but what a neato discovery !  First with
the boring stuff....There was a 41 Ford, a 47 chevy, a ? 350 Chevelle (green
with green rag top), a Pontiac executive, a Fairlane 500, now for the neat
stuff.  1967 Caddy which was red 2 dr with a white rag top for 2500.00. and
for the Real goodies, a 1973 and a 1975 Olds 88.  both 2 dr's  both red (very
different tones) both were converts! and both were 12,000.00 dollars.   To be
honest the Caddy looked better, but  the 73 Olds was bad @ss.  All together
though, every car there looked awesome!! Not rusty -or- banged up!!  anyhow, I
was in a little bit of a hurry and didn't stick around too long .  If the
owner would have come out of his trailer home I would have stood there all day
BS'n.  I should go back because I can't figure the HUGE price difference.
maybe a typo. (In the windshield of the cars was a piece of paper listing just
the cars and prices)  Maybe the caddy was shy a motor....oh well..what can I
expect to find for a motor in the 2 Olds's?  If the convert tops on the Old's
aren't factory somebody did a damn good job of fakin it but it's probably
right.  The reason for my curosity on this subject is because the Chevelle (72
maybe) was a convert.  The car is a metallic teal green and the top is a wierd
green too.  I can't seem to remember ever seeing a factory convert Chevelle
before.  But it looked like the real deal to me!  Oh well, bla bla
bla......What a cool hole in the wall.

Ryan (MFatzII@aol.com)
Lincoln,   Nebraska  (Home of the Cornhuskers, too bad they suck !)
<<Turn it on, Wind it up, Blow it out, OLDS-MO-BILE>>

56 88 4dr Sedan  (Project Rocket) 
<A HREF="http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/wieders2/">Click here</A>
83 Cutlass Supreme Brougham (mom's)
85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham (girlfriend's)
89 Chevy Beretta CL (Ryan's  a.k.a   pool shark)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 22:58:06 EST
From: MFATZII@aol.com
Subject: Re: 86 Cutlass wreck picture

In a message dated 11/18/98 9:42:02 PM Central Standard Time,
super442@yahoo.com writes:

<< Thought some of you might want to see how an 86 Cutlass holds up to a
 bad
 > > wreck.  We towed this car in a few weeks back. Wreck was so bad
 the motor
 > > was ripped from the frame and landed 100 yards away from the car. 
 In the
 > > picture the motor is resting on the trunk.
 > > Picture is at: http://home.neo.lrun.com/jlabay/86cutlass.jpg
 
 ----------DDDAAAMMMNNNN.....that hurt....did the Ralley Pac survive?
         That must've been a really bad one...any details? Not trying
 to be morbid...just wondering what other vehicle/object (obviously
 solid) was involved.
   >>


"And they -didn't- walk away # I"  tonight on F@X

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 20:01:20 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Craftsman tools (was: replacing brake hose)

At 03:49 PM 11/18/98 -0800, you wrote:
>How about "KOBALT" i just get a set of wrenches and thay seem really 
>good so fare,any of you guys used thame befor?
>
I've seen them (never used them) and they looked good.

basicly I've found that the best are:

Proto,Armstrong, Allen,Sperry-Sand, Van Kuren
Victor and Mahr

next are:
Channel-lock, GB, Klein, Starret

Then comes the well known stuff:
Snap-on, matco, Mac, Husky, Stanley (yes Stanley)

Then finally Craftman and Pittsburg-Forge

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 22:05:44 -0600
From: Shang <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: SB rear main seal

DYeager535@aol.com wrote:
> 
>      Which Ford rear main works on the SB (403) Olds? The FAQ says a 292, but
> I've been told a 460 is the right one..FAQ says 460 is for BB Olds. Anyone
> used one and know for sure? Dorian


You can obtain a perfectly correct neoprene rubber rear main seal from
Mondello.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 23:23:11 -0500
From: Gasman24 <stulk@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Cryogenic Bearings

Peter Landowski wrote:
> 
> Well I'm going to bite the bullet and buy $$$ those 455 main and rod
> bearings tha are cryogenically frozen from Mondello $180.00. 
<sniped>
  Hey everyone,
    I remember this thread a while back and was wondering how this
process is done. Do they just put the bearings in liquid nitrogen(or
whatever they use) and let them set for a while? Or is there more to it?
I mean if all your doing is putting bearings in liquid nitrogen and
letting them set a while, you could just do this yourself and save some
$$$.
 Just wondering if I'm missing something here.
Scott <stulk@bellsouth.net>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 21:29:47 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 86 Cutlass wreck picture

Jason,

you say that you have seen some '80 Deltas in bad wrecks too.  I own the '81
Delta and the '81 Regency.  Never seen one of these in a real accident but
would like to know if they are safe/tough/weak spots and so on.  That was a
NASTY picture.  Poor guy.  My dad spun out in my '81 Delta a few years back
doing about 55 mph when he hit black ice.  It was a three lane high-way.  He
said he did about a 160 (was in the far right lane, attempting to exit the
high-way) and then found himself going under a trailer of a large semi-truck
(lumber hauler), quickly he turned the wheel to avoid instant death and
found himself kissing the cement divider with the front end.  He said that
he did not even have enough time to take his foot off the gas and that it
all happened in an instant.  He could not have lost much speed but lets say
he was still doing about 35-40 mph.  Lets put it this way, he had a belt yet
he nailed the steering wheel with his chest (had a red mark to prove it).
The car: he bent the front bumper (pass. side) just a little bit, that is
all.  I still drive with that bumper but since my car is getting painted, I
will replace the front bumper and both absorbers.  What about Delta Vs.
Civic.  That should be fun.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 23:41:07 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: SB rear main seal

In a message dated 11/18/98 8:11:10 PM Pacific Standard Time,
shang@connect.net writes:

<< You can obtain a perfectly correct neoprene rubber rear main seal from
 Mondello.
 
 Stephen Hoover
 Dallas, Texas
 '70 Supreme >>

     Thanks Steve, but I'm not looking for the CORRECT one, I want the one
piece rear main : ) Thanks to The General for clearing that up for me.  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 00:19:38 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: 72 Supreme FS

On one of my excursions Tuesday, I saw a 72 Supreme sitting out by
itself in this rally junky car lot.  Since I've ben looking for a parts
car of this type and vintage, I stopped and took a look.  Car was burnt
orange with what was left of a white vinyl top on it.   Couldn't check
the mileage, the car had buckets, center console, 350 4bbl, A/T, some
kind of SS wheels (looked to me like the ones that were sold on the
early 80's models) and disc brakes.  The body had rot everywhere, the
fronts of the buckets were ripped and the radio was long gone  The only
usable body parts (except for maybe the doors) was the hood (real good
shape) and decent replatable bumper blanks.  The motor was sitting
therewith all the hoses cut off and all the belts gone.  The air cleaner
was nowhere in sight.  I doubt whether the car would run, but I asked
the people what they wanted for it.  The lady called someone and handed
the phone to me.  The guy asked, "What is it worth to you?"  I countered
with, what are you asking for it.  Well, it turns out he wants $700 for
it.  When he asked in a rather abrupt fashion what was it worth to me, I
told him nowhere close to that amount because it was only good for parts
in my opinion.  He got a little huffy, said a few words and hung up.  If
anyone is interested, the guy's phone number is 606 498-7777 and is
located in Mt Sterling, Ky.  In my opinion I wouldn't give him more than
$200 for the whole car as the only things I would be interested in are
the disc brakes and maybe the seats.  The rest would useless for my
purposes.  I thought the guy was 1. too high on his price and 2. rude
and a prick.  But that was just me.  If it ran and you could drive it
home (even SLOWLY) $700 or so might be reasonable.  But given the
circumstances I didn't think so.  But then if I err I want it to be on
the cheap side, not the extra monied part.  Just thought someone might
be interested.

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 21:44:48 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: SB rear main seal

> shang@connect.net writes:
> 
> << You can obtain a perfectly correct neoprene rubber rear main seal from
>  Mondello.
> 
>  Stephen Hoover
>  Dallas, Texas
>  '70 Supreme >>


DYeager535@aol.com wrote:
> 
>      Thanks Steve, but I'm not looking for the CORRECT one, I want the one
> piece rear main : ) Thanks to The General for clearing that up for me.  
Dorian



Ok.  You got me on this one.  
How on earth does a ONE PIECE rear main seal 
fit on an Olds crank?  The only way I can imagine
this could work would be by using the flexplate/
flywheel mounting flange of the crank for a seal
surface.  But how does this one piece seal attach
and seal the crankcase/block?  Is some kind of 
"adaptor" plate required?  I'm trying to feature 
how this design works.  And if it is really
necessary.  We've always had good results with
the two piece neoprene seal that uses the same
sealing surface in the main cap/block and on the 
crankshaft as the original rope design used.          

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 01:09:43 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: SB rear main seal

In a message dated 11/18/98 9:59:18 PM Pacific Standard Time,
supercars@transport.com writes:

<< How on earth does a ONE PIECE rear main seal 
 fit on an Olds crank?  The only way I can imagine
 this could work would be by using the flexplate/
 flywheel mounting flange of the crank for a seal
 surface.  >>

     I don't know yet..machine shop said it will work too...haven't got the
block back..we'll see. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 00:23:24 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Cutlass wreck pictures

>  Thought some of you might want to see how an 86 Cutlass holds up to a
> bad
> > > wreck. 
> Picture is at: http://home.neo.lrun.com/jlabay/86cutlass.jpg
> Not trying
> to be morbid...just wondering what other vehicle/object (obviously
> solid) was involved.

My guess is a partial spin on highway, at ~very~ high speed (in the triples) 
and
leaving the road in reverse, taking an abrupt bump from behind on a bit of an
embankment, and then going over end-for end, and after catching some good
airtime, landing rubber side up, nose first, but once again heading forward... 
Doesn't look like he'd have been much better off if he ~did~ stay inside,
though...  Definately a freak event, though.  I suspect the rear of these cars
is a weak point, not designed to withstand much of an impact.  

Here's a (poor quality) shot of a wreck that claimed a friend of mine, years
ago.  It's (was) an 81 Brougham, diesel.  Left the road on a corner, at
(estimated) 90+.  Young girl, driver, fell asleep, young girl, passenger, never
woke up again.  Both were ejected, passenger killed instantly upon impact. 
(Didn't sound like the car landed on her, at least.  The driver was conscious
(barely) 4 hours (estimated) later, when officials found the wreck.  She
survived for a few years later, but also died young.  The saddest part of the
whole thing, is that every time I see this picture, I feel ~very~ strongly that
both would have walked away if their seat belts would have been on.  They may
not have walked very fast, but I'm sure they'd both be around to this day, if
they had taken that extra moment to buckle up.  Although, being teenage girls,
they'd probably also have been much better off if they were sober...
 

Anyway, here's the picture (It's big, so be patient)
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet/wreck.jpg

The paper billed it like this:  "The wreckage of the 1981 Oldsmobile was 
several
hundred feet away from the road and would not have been easily seen by other
motorists...  ...Both girls had been thrown from the vehiclethat had turned 
over
several times after leaving the road at a high rate of speed on a curve..."  

(I think that's all the details I know, to provide all the other morbid 
details,
that folks like myself would naturally speculate about.)



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------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1610
*********************************

