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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1663


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, December 14 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1663



Re: Lowering a Delta
Re: 68 442 convert found?
Re: [Re: 70  supreme parts car]
Re: Lowering a Delta
8000 RPM 350
'72 Cutlass performance
UNBOUNCE: '72 Cutlass performance
ADMIN: List Address Change
Re: 8000 RPM 350
Re: piston melting equipment
Re: Oldsmobile in the movies. WW and the Dixie Dance Kings?
Re: piston melting
Re: Whats wrong with-----
Re: 8000 RPM 350
no circulation, new water pump?
FARGO
Re: A-body list yet ?
73 Hurst Olds for Sale
Re: FARGO
Re: 8000 RPM 350
RE: FARGO
Re: FARGO
RE: FARGO
Dashpad
Traction Bars on Delta
Re: Lowering a Delta
Re: Lightening Rods & parts
Re: Traction Bars on Delta
Re: Traction Bars on Delta
How much hp am I going to have?
Re: no circulation, new water pump?
The "Goober" with the Cutlass
Re: Traction Bars on Delta
Re: Traction Bars on Delta
Re: How much hp am I going to have?
Olds problem
Cam ID
head flow info 
Re: Cam ID
Re: How much hp am I going to have?
Re: Cam ID
Nice weather
RE: Cam ID
Re: Nice weather
Another cam id.. 
Re: 8000 RPM 350
70-72 Fender 442 emblem color
70-72 W-30 Hood Stripes
Re: Cam ID
Re: Another cam id..
Re: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST
Re: head flow info 
Re: 70-72 Fender 442 emblem color
Re: 70-72 W-30 Hood Stripes
Olds Manuals
Re: 8000 RPM 350
Re: Olds problem
Re: Olds problem
Re: 8000 RPM 350
Re: engine assembly 101
The Olds Must Go--A Sad Day
69 Cutlass FS
Re: Traction Bars on Delta
Re: 69 Cutlass FS
Pontmobile Question
UNBOUNCE:  The Olds Must Go--A Sad Day
Re: [Re: 70 442 mirror
RE: head flow info 
Re: Traction Bars on Delta

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 02:11:31 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: Lowering a Delta

 <A HREF="http://home.earthlink.net/~bazillion/frameset.html">Frameset: Spring
Making</A>

Here is a website that gives the calculations to figure it out in advance.

Now, if you had a forge, you could just heat the spring and compress it to
correct free length. Then, sitck them back on the forge and retemper them :-)
That way, you could lower the car without stiffening the suspension at the
same time. I hate to se these low riders with their cut springs go over a
bump. They look like a toy with their nearly rigid "springs".

Seriously, don't anyone retemper your springs on a home forge. Auto spring
work needs to be as closely controlled as about anything in the heat treat
field and a home attempt will almost certainly result in springs with gross
crystalline structure which will fail in service.

However, it is fun to think about the possibilities.

Cheers/good night/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 23:19:55 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 68 442 convert found?

THANK YOU for the information. I am buyong this car tomorrow. Will let 
you in on the final info!!!!!!


>I don't have the production figures that you requested (there are SOME
>figures in the FAQ, but I'm not sure how they are broken down), but I 
have
>heard it mentioned more than a few times that the fact that the body 
trim
>tag says Cutlass shouldn't concern you any - that genuine 442s built 
out of
>Lansing (and possibly other sites?) were based on Cutlass bodies from 
the
>get go (as opposed to being built from the ground up as 442s).
>
>Best course of action for you would be to go back and clean off all the
>crap so you can get a good look at the VIN.  That would eliminate quite 
a
>bit of doubt.  The VIN for a 68 442 should read 344678M1xxxxxxx, where 
3 =
>Olds, 44 = 442, 67 = convertble, 8 = 1968, M = Lansing, Michigan, 
followed
>by the sequential production number.
>
>By the way, all of this information came from the FAQ -
>http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 03:26:55 EST
From: Socalolds@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Re: 70  supreme parts car]

Bruce,
At least two of the long pieces. Need to cut them to fit on my 72.
Thanks
Dennis

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 03:14:43 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Lowering a Delta

I hate to se these low riders with their cut springs go over a
>bump. They look like a toy with their nearly rigid "springs".

I do want a little bit stiffer suspension.  This car is not bad (my '81
Regency is ridiculously soft), but I want a bit better handling.  I am under
the impression that it will make traction worse, but I guess I will just
deal with that later.  I doubt that it will get that stiff.  What about
bottoming out.  Anybody have experience with that?  Igor.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 03:16:53 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: 8000 RPM 350

What would it take to get a fresh .030 over 350 to get up to 7000 or 8000
RPM for the lowest cost.  I guess oil-system improvements, new valve-springs
and balancing.  ??????  Is 7000 RPM too high.  I know that this RPM and a
455 would be tuff.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 04:22:44 -0700
From: Roger Peterson <rkp@uswest.net>
Subject: '72 Cutlass performance

I'm in the process of turning my beloved '72 Cutlass Supreme into a
supremely quick and powerful car.  I kept it stock for a long time, but
now it's my time to do that which I wanted to do as a kid but couldn't
afford to do.  I'd like to discuss my thoughts and plans with other
Oldsmobile performance enthusiasts.  Is this the appropriate place?

Roger:)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 08:06:38 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '72 Cutlass performance

I'd say you found the right place Roger... welcome.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Roger Peterson <rkp@uswest.net>
Subject: '72 Cutlass performance

I'm in the process of turning my beloved '72 Cutlass Supreme into a
supremely quick and powerful car.  I kept it stock for a long time, but
now it's my time to do that which I wanted to do as a kid but couldn't
afford to do.  I'd like to discuss my thoughts and plans with other
Oldsmobile performance enthusiasts.  Is this the appropriate place?

Roger:)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 08:09:37 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: ADMIN: List Address Change

Please note that I have been advised by Chebucto that the two old
addresses for this list (oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca and
oldsmobile@cfn.cs.dal.ca) are about to disappear. In fact the latter one
may already be non-functional. I still notice some posts coming to these
addresses and presume they are stored either in people's address books or
are contained on some older web page links. Please update these ASAP.
Thanks!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 08:04:55 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: 8000 RPM 350

In a message dated 98-12-13 05:19:17 EST, you write:

<< What would it take to get a fresh .030 over 350 to get up to 7000 or 8000
 RPM for the lowest cost.  I guess oil-system improvements, new valve-springs
 and balancing.  ??????  >>

???? is also the first thoughts here.

You want to go to higher RPM's?

That will not make your power band broader.
If anything, it will make the power band particularly noticeable when your
torque peak falls off at the higher RPM.

Or do you want to move your power band to higher RPM range and eliminate your
bottom end power?

Or mebbe Karl not understand question.

Again: ????

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 09:16:48 -0500
From: "Ken" <olds442@en.com>
Subject: Re: piston melting equipment

Foundry Shmoundry.....Break pison apart with large hammer, get a cutting
torch. Heat the damn thing up.. it'll melt.. Took under 5 minutes to melt a
425 slug. A skillit might not be the ideal container to melt in.  Need to
use something that will keep the melted alum. in a small area so you can
keep the heat on it,  I used the iron cap for a big oxy. tank.  Skim all the
crap off the top, pour into exhaust ports (dont stop in mid pour) till it
runs out valve seats, grind excess till smooth being careful not to touch
the actual seat.  This is a really simple operation.. takes maybe an evening
max.  I find it hard to believe there have been so many posts on this..

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 15:41:48 -0600
From: "Charles A. Dempsey" <cdemps@lsumc.edu>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile in the movies. WW and the Dixie Dance Kings?

Wrong subject. Resending.

CCRR12@aol.com wrote:
  
> Norval, you are a stud.

I'll second that!

> It is probably the only certifiable collectable four-
> door hot rod.

I wondered if this car was an invention of Hollywood because there is no
mention of it in either;
1. The Cars Of Oldsmobile (Dennis Casteele),
2. The Standard Catalog of Oldsmobile (Chevedden and Kowalke) or 
3. The Old Car Price Guide. 

> Tell us more Norval.

Yes, yes! Please do! 

Got any pictures?

Charles

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 11:04:11 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: Re: piston melting

> Hello all,

 I've seen allot of chatter about my post on the piston melting for filling the
heat risers. I should've stated that i use a std oxy-acetylene torch with a
"rosebud" tip[large heating tip]. I place two old greasy, dirty cast pistons in
the cast iron skillet and apply the heat directly to the pistons. They melt 
right
down, and all the impurities float to the top. I scoop the junk off the top and
pour.
 It's really not a big deal. Please be careful if you do it though. That molten
aluminum is dangerous.

Dave Brode

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 12:30:01 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: Whats wrong with-----

Only if oyu can get the junkyard grease out from under your nails from
the day's junking excursions....
Hee Hee Hee
Brian.

Lou Biggs wrote:
> 
> Brian,
> Thought it was date nite.
> Lou
> 
> ----------
> > From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Re: Whats wrong with-----
> > Date: Friday, December 11, 1998 6:11 PM
> >
> > Not in town, in the junkyards!  It IS Saturday, after all. :-)
> > Brian.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 11:08:43 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 8000 RPM 350

>Or do you want to move your power band to higher RPM range and eliminate
your
>bottom end power?


Yeah, move the band up and use 4.10 gears and a small converter in a light
car.  I am just curious if olds motors would go up that high.  I have heard
of many and seen some Chevy motors that rev. up to 6500+.  I am just
wondering if Olds could do it as well.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 13:39:22 -0500
From: "Rob Lewis" <fever@planeteer.com>
Subject: no circulation, new water pump?

Stumped  78-88 air
No heat in car 
Heat Valve open
Top & Bottom rad hoses hot.
Core flushed and open.
Engine doesn't seem to run to hot.
No water in long heater hose.
New water pump in summer "repro"
Has anyone ever had trouble with new water pump.
Is there a plate on back or something that could restrict flow.
Before I start pulling it apart I thought I would check with the pro's.
Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 13:42:51 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: FARGO

So,
Anyone else see Fargo last night?  That movie's cool, especially all the
Oldses in it.  A nice 87 Supreme is in it, don't see much of it though.
Mostly a bunch of 88's, 98's and Cierra's.

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 13:46:13 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: A-body list yet ?

Yeah, there is, go to my page at www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z/index.html
you can join there

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 14:28:18 EST
From: Bbymks4@aol.com
Subject: 73 Hurst Olds for Sale

                  This Sounds like a pretty nice car, it's in the Seattle
area, it's been in
   the newspaper for about a month now. The ad reads:
                   '73 Hurst-455, spec. ed. lo mi, white/gold. $7,000.
425-778-7081
        If I remember right, this is a pretty rare car, I believe that 1,069
were made in
       1973. I just thought I'd post it just in case someone might be looking
for one.

      Good luck, from Steve Maggard.
      And I hope to get going on restoring
     my 73 442 very soon..... : )

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 12:33:19 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: FARGO

A nice 87 Supreme is in it, don't see much of it though.
>Mostly a bunch of 88's, 98's and Cierra's.


You would expect them to use the bigger, better flag ships (the 88 and 98)
in a movie about Oldsmobiles.  Who would pick a Chevy over a Cadillac.  HA
HA.  Just joking.  Thought like having a little fun since the list traffic
seems to be down.  I don't mean what I say.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 98 Regency (307/th2004r/propane)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 13:44:55 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 8000 RPM 350

><< What would it take to get a fresh .030 over 350 to get up to 7000 or
8000
> RPM for the lowest cost.  I guess oil-system improvements, new
valve-springs
> and balancing.  ??????  >>
>
>You want to go to higher RPM's?
>
>That will not make your power band broader.
>If anything, it will make the power band particularly noticeable when your
>torque peak falls off at the higher RPM.
>
>Or do you want to move your power band to higher RPM range and eliminate
your
>bottom end power?
>
Actually, this is not unreasonable considering that the Performer
RPM dyno #'s show the hp continuously rising until 6,000 rpm
where the chart stops.  Stands to reason that your max hp would
be even higher (as compared to std Performer pkg which hp
peak is at 3500 and drops from there).  So spinning to 7,000
would actually just allow you to take advantage of the power
that's already there.  Now, what would I suggest for turning
a 350 to 7,000-8,000?  First identify the weak links aside
from those already mentioned: cast crank, 2 bolt mains (big
one here).  My 72 350 was built for this and here is the list
of what I put in it, you decide what's important.  Stress relieved
nodular crank,  polished rods, main studs, main cap straps,
windage tray, high volume oil pump, oil galley restrictors,
baffled oil pan (11 qt.), smoothed and chamfered oil feed and
drainback passages (rear main, heads, lifter valley), and
stress relieved block.  This assumes that the other engine
specs are capable of spinning up to this rpm and may be
a bit overkill, but after the rod pops through the side of the
block to say "HI" it's too late.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 14:55:03 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: FARGO

what the?

- -----Original Message-----
You would expect them to use the bigger, better flag ships (the 88 and 98)
in a movie about Oldsmobiles.  Who would pick a Chevy over a Cadillac.  HA
HA.  Just joking.  Thought like having a little fun since the list traffic
seems to be down.  I don't mean what I say.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 98 Regency (307/th2004r/propane)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 13:25:08 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: FARGO

>what the?

I meant to say that a 88 or a 98 is a better choice over a Cutlass.  It was
a joke, of course to get the attention of all you Cutlass Owners.  Like I
said, just to keep the traffic going.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 98 Regency (307/th2004r/propane)

>You would expect them to use the bigger, better flag ships (the 88 and 98)
>in a movie about Oldsmobiles.  Who would pick a Chevy over a Cadillac.  HA
>HA.  Just joking.  Thought like having a little fun since the list traffic
>seems to be down.  I don't mean what I say.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 15:37:14 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: FARGO

Don't make me come there Igor!

- -----Original Message-----

>what the?

I meant to say that a 88 or a 98 is a better choice over a Cutlass.  It was
a joke, of course to get the attention of all you Cutlass Owners.  Like I
said, just to keep the traffic going.

Igor

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 15:31:53 -0600
From: <Michael_Baugher/MO/americancentury@americancentury.com>
Subject: Dashpad

Hi Ken,

Just checking in again regarding the dash pad. How much are you asking for
it?

Mike

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 14:49:10 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Traction Bars on Delta

    I believe that traction bars go only on leaf-suspended cars?  Why?  Can
you get them (or equivalents) for spring-suspended cars (like my '81 Delta).
Traction bars are inexpensive and would help my car quite a bit especially
after I lower it (stiffen the suspension).  If no traction bars exist for
spring cars are there any substitutes.  Besides, I think that the bars would
look good.  Igor.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23 posi)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 16:43:24 -0500
From: "Bill Reilly" <wjreilly@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Lowering a Delta

Igor,

I suggest you bring your Delta to a suspension shop or an aftermarket rim
and tire shop that can perform what you need.  Believe me, it's worth the
cash to have them do it once and get it right.  You do not want to remove
the front coils any more than once.  It's a real chore, trust me.  You can
also get custom bent springs from PST.  They run about $135 (US) per pair.

Bill Reilly
mailto: wjreilly@erols.com
Web Page: (Not yet)

My Garage:
'83 Cutlass Ciera
'84 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 16:53:28 -0500
From: "Bill Reilly" <wjreilly@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Lightening Rods & parts

- -----Original Message-----
From: R. Grant <kgrant442@home.com>
Subject: Lightening Rods & parts


>the new overdrive Trans. Were the Lightening Rod shifters used with
>Overdrive Trans? If so can you use that with the 700-r4 Trans.
>If you can what is the going price for a lightening Rod?


Mr. Grant,

Lightning Rods should work on the 700-r4.  They originally were used with
the 200-4r tranny which is an overdrive unit.  You might need a custom
shifter cable and tranny bracket.

I paid $200 for a set this past summer at Natioanls, in so-so condition, and
without shifter cable or tranny bracket. Sent back to Hurst for rebuild for
another $95.  I've noticed a couple of ads for L/R recently, both on 442.com
and in JWO.  Check H/O.com also.  They are hard to come by. If you find
them, grab them.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 16:58:06 -0500
From: "Bill Reilly" <wjreilly@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Traction Bars on Delta

- -----Original Message-----
From: Igor T. '81 DRB 455 <igor455@home.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, December 13, 1998 4:51 PM
Subject: Traction Bars on Delta


If no traction bars exist for spring cars are there any substitutes. 
 >Igor Todorovic
>
>1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23 posi)


Get a set of air bags for the rear springs.  Supposed to work real good.

Bill Reilly
mailto: wjreilly@erols.com
Web Page: (Not yet)

My Garage:
'83 Cutlass Ciera 
'84 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 14:56:15 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Traction Bars on Delta

    And also, can someone please explain to me HOW IN THE HELL did the big
w-30s hook up with their 3.91 rears and those skinny-ass tires.  I have
serious difficulty with a DELTA with a very, very mild 455 and 3.23 posi and
255 tires BFGoodirch (hard rubber I know, but still).  Look at that
Demolition Man clip when he stomps on the big 455 from start (sounds just
like my 455 only better).  He spins but gets some traction.  If they used my
car for those clips, the D man would go nowhere.  I know that the w-30s had
rougher cams with less bottom end but they also had looser torque
converters, correct?

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 17:20:37 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: How much hp am I going to have?

330 .30" over
Forged 9.5:1 pistons
Stock heads (3 i think)
Edelbrock performer cam (the rpm wont work in a 1966 330:( )
Edelbrock Perfromer RPM Intake
Holley 650cfm Double Pumper
150hp NOS cheater system

what should be my hp with and w/o NOS?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 17:18:51 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: no circulation, new water pump?

Usually when there is no heat in a car that has had the cooling system open
it is due to a system that is not full or air locked.  Try filling the
system through the uppr hose.  I assume the T'stat is OK.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Rob Lewis <fever@planeteer.com>
To: Oldsmobile Mail List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, December 13, 1998 1:42 PM
Subject: no circulation, new water pump?


>Stumped  78-88 air
>No heat in car
>Heat Valve open
>Top & Bottom rad hoses hot.
>Core flushed and open.
>Engine doesn't seem to run to hot.
>No water in long heater hose.
>New water pump in summer "repro"
>Has anyone ever had trouble with new water pump.
>Is there a plate on back or something that could restrict flow.
>Before I start pulling it apart I thought I would check with the pro's.
>Thanks
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 17:36:53 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: The "Goober" with the Cutlass

I downloaded the redneck mov clip from 442.com and was wondering if
anybody can tell me what that's from. I'd like to see the whole thing!

BTW- we do the same thing, except we use trucks and SUV's that are made
for that stuff. If you've never been muddin', you're missin' out!!!
- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***************************
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 V-8 4 bbl)
1975 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (250 I-6 1 bbl)
1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (350 V-8 2 bbl)
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4 bbl)
*******************************************
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 16:31:23 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Traction Bars on Delta

>    I believe that traction bars go only on leaf-suspended cars?  Why?

You have to keep in mind that on a leaf spring car the springs control
the "bounce" and locate the axle.  In a high hp car the spring will twist
between the axle and the front spring eye.  What the traction bar does
is make a solid link between the axle and frame when the axle tries to
twist.

> Can
>you get them (or equivalents) for spring-suspended cars (like my '81
Delta).
>Traction bars are inexpensive and would help my car quite a bit especially
>after I lower it (stiffen the suspension).  If no traction bars exist for
>spring cars are there any substitutes.  Besides, I think that the bars
would
>look good.

As far as coil spring cars traction bars wouldn't do anything since you
already have solid suspension links.  Equivalents would run the gammut
from ladder bars to lift bars and hop stop bars.  Ladder bars are just that
though I haven't seen them around for years.  Basically they worked just
like on a drag car but they didn't work all that great.  Lift bars and/or
hop
stop bars or upper bar relocators all work by revising the stock 4 link
geometry.  All the upper echelon drag cars with tube frames run 4 links
and the GM 4 link can be made to work just as well.  The lift bars usually
replace the bottom bars and are popular for 5.0's (different susp design)
but I think I have seen them for 64-78 A bodies.  The hop stop kits and
upper bar relocators move the axle mount for the upper bar higher moving
the instant center of the 4 link closer to the center of gravity of the car.
With proper tuning, the factory 4 link can get enough traction to launch
very hard (pull front wheels off the ground w/10" slicks) but to do so it
usually requires strip only mod's to soften up the suspension for wieght
transfer.  As far as looking good, most cars I've seen with traction bars
look riduculous because it is actually rare to see one that's adjusted
right.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 17:44:20 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Traction Bars on Delta

Competition Engineering DOES in fact make an effective traction bar to coil
spring cars. They claim that the benefits are numerous and noticeable. They
attach to the axle tubes and lower control arm mounts. They have an
adjustable link that goes from the end of the bar to the axle tube mount
controlling the amount of axle movement (turning up or down). You can look
at these bars in Summit, Jegs, and PAW catalogs.
- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Comid <Comid>
Date: Sunday, December 13, 1998 5:34 PM
Subject: Re: Traction Bars on Delta


>
>Received: from halifax.chebucto.ns.ca [192.75.95.75] by jellico.com with
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> for <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; Sun, 13 Dec 1998 16:32:21 -0600 (CST)
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>Message-ID: <001401be26e8$526b8980$94876420@oemcomputer>
>From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Subject: Re: Traction Bars on Delta
>Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 16:31:23 -0600
>X-Priority: 3
>X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
>X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 4.72.3110.1
>X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V4.72.3110.3
>X-Orcpt: rfc822;"|/csuite/etc/majordomo/wrapper resend -l oldsmobile -h
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>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
>>    I believe that traction bars go only on leaf-suspended cars?  Why?
>
>You have to keep in mind that on a leaf spring car the springs control
>the "bounce" and locate the axle.  In a high hp car the spring will twist
>between the axle and the front spring eye.  What the traction bar does
>is make a solid link between the axle and frame when the axle tries to
>twist.
>
>> Can
>>you get them (or equivalents) for spring-suspended cars (like my '81
>Delta).
>>Traction bars are inexpensive and would help my car quite a bit especially
>>after I lower it (stiffen the suspension).  If no traction bars exist for
>>spring cars are there any substitutes.  Besides, I think that the bars
>would
>>look good.
>
>As far as coil spring cars traction bars wouldn't do anything since you
>already have solid suspension links.  Equivalents would run the gammut
>from ladder bars to lift bars and hop stop bars.  Ladder bars are just that
>though I haven't seen them around for years.  Basically they worked just
>like on a drag car but they didn't work all that great.  Lift bars and/or
>hop
>stop bars or upper bar relocators all work by revising the stock 4 link
>geometry.  All the upper echelon drag cars with tube frames run 4 links
>and the GM 4 link can be made to work just as well.  The lift bars usually
>replace the bottom bars and are popular for 5.0's (different susp design)
>but I think I have seen them for 64-78 A bodies.  The hop stop kits and
>upper bar relocators move the axle mount for the upper bar higher moving
>the instant center of the 4 link closer to the center of gravity of the
car.
>With proper tuning, the factory 4 link can get enough traction to launch
>very hard (pull front wheels off the ground w/10" slicks) but to do so it
>usually requires strip only mod's to soften up the suspension for wieght
>transfer.  As far as looking good, most cars I've seen with traction bars
>look riduculous because it is actually rare to see one that's adjusted
>right.
>
>Mike B
>mbloomer@gateway.net
>ICQ# 19113713
>72 Cutlass S (RIP)
>68 Cutlass Supreme
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 17:48:45 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: How much hp am I going to have?

In a message dated 12/13/98 4:22:47 PM Central Standard Time,
Gutlass66@aol.com writes:

<< 330 .30" over
 Forged 9.5:1 pistons
 Stock heads (3 i think)
 Edelbrock performer cam (the rpm wont work in a 1966 330:( )
 Edelbrock Perfromer RPM Intake
 Holley 650cfm Double Pumper
 150hp NOS cheater system
 
 what should be my hp with and w/o NOS? >>


   Why wont the RPM work in a 66 330? Is a 66 330 different from a 65 330? I
have the complete RPM package on a 65 330 and am getting roughly 375hp. 

Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 18:36:39 -0500 (EST)
From: Garbo162@webtv.net (Gary Lieb)
Subject: Olds problem

My 87 cutlass ciera is starting then sputtering out 5 seconds later. If
i rev the engine it will start on the second or third try. I dont have
any idea what the prblem is. Please help I need the car running well as
fast as i can. Thanks this list has been a life saver 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 15:37:11 PST
From: "Peter Vollemans" <rocket403@hotmail.com>
Subject: Cam ID

I just pulled the cam out of my 403 and would like more info on it.
The manufacturers logo is CD.  Anybody know who that is?  The model is 
272H10 and it is called Energizer.  Anyone have this cam or know about 
it?  I'm need to know duration, lift, etc.  Thanks.

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 18:46:09 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: head flow info 

Hello all,
 All the recent talk about the Batten, and Edelbrock heads has me 
wondering...does
anyone on the list have a flow comparison between the two with similar sized
valves?

 I have flow #s for the Battens with 2.055/1.6" valves, but no info with larger
sized valves.

 One a related note. Some fellows were hoping that Edelbrock was coming out 
with
another head, possibly aimed at use on a serious small block[it turned out to 
be a
misprint]. I bet a "C" head with  decent prep would work real well on a serious
high rpm small block of 350-370 inches. I believe there's a few intakes out 
there
that have enough meat to allow the ports to be raised high enough.
 I've always wanted to build an aluminum rod, steel crank, big 
bore[4.125"-4.185"]
small block, and equip it with a "C" head.  I bet it would rev like a 377
C*evy[4.155"X3.48"].
The problem for me has always been, you can build a 455 just as cheaply.
 Is there anyone on the list with a small block with bb heads?
Dave Brode
64 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 16:57:18 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Cam ID

I believe that it is a Comp Cam grind, but I could be wrong.  It could be a
crane cam.  Anyway, if it is a Comp Cam it is not listed in my Comp Cam
catalog, so it could be an older type.  Comp uses the number and H at the
end.  They also have High Energy, Dual Energy and Magnum Cams.  Hence, this
is why I think that it could be a Comp.


>I just pulled the cam out of my 403 and would like more info on it.
>The manufacturers logo is CD.  Anybody know who that is?  The model is
>272H10 and it is called Energizer.  Anyone have this cam or know about
>it?  I'm need to know duration, lift, etc.  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 19:07:48 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: How much hp am I going to have?

I'm just going off what the Edelbrock people told me, that would be great if
it would work

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 19:07:52 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Cam ID

> I just pulled the cam out of my 403 and would like more info on it.
> The manufacturers logo is CD.  Anybody know who that is?  The model is
> 272H10 and it is called Energizer.  Anyone have this cam or know about
> it?  I'm need to know duration, lift, etc.  Thanks.
> 
Cam Dynamics is the mfr.  Hence the CD.  I don't have any other info on
this particular cam however.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 18:13:11 -0600
From: f85@juno.com (Joe R Brockman)
Subject: Nice weather

Well, with all this nice weather, I finally broke down and toke my car
out.  I had some troubles getting it going, and it still doesn't seem to
be running quite right.  I think the carb is pretty much shot.  It has
been rebuilt a couple of times, and I have a new edelbrock waiting for
spring. I would just like to thank everyone that has helped with things
lately.  It is amazing how much you guys now.  i just hope that she runs
fine for my big date Wednesday night!  I'm sure it will, it is an
oldsmobile.  Well thanks again.  And hopefully this nice weather will
stick around!!

Joe B
66 F-85

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 19:22:07 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Cam ID

http://www.cranecams.com/cgi-bin/spec.cgi?database=SPECCARD.tab&form=CardSam
p.htm&id=10808


It is a Crane Cam.  There's the address for the spec card.  or here's the
info:

Part Number:  10808
Grind Number:  272 H10 ENERGIZER
Engine Ident:  1967-1984 OLDSMOBILE V-8 39 DEG. BANK ANGLE
               260 THRU 455 CU.IN. (ALSO 1966 400 AND TORONADO 425 CU.IN.)

VALVE SETTING: INTAKE  .000  EXHAUST  .000  ---->  HOT
LIFT: INTAKE @CAM 3027 @VALVE 484  ROCKER ARM RATIO 1.6
     EXHAUST @CAM 3027 @VALVE 484
     ALL LIFTS ARE BASED ON ZERO LASH AND THEORETICAL ROCKER ARM RATIOS

CAM TIMING  OPENS CLOSES ADV DURATION
      @ .004  INTAKE  27 BTDC 65 ABDC 272 °
TAPPET LIFT EXHAUST  67 BBDC 25 ATDC 272 °

 SPRING REQUIREMENTS
 TRIPLE      DUAL       OUTER      INNER
PART NUMBER                   99833

LOADS:
 CLOSED   95 LBS  @ 1.700  OR  1 45/64
OPEN   247 LBS  @ 1.240

RECOMMENDED RPM
RANGE WITH MATCHING COMPONENTS
MINIMUM RPM  2000
MAXIMUM RPM  5000
VALVE FLOAT  6500

CAM TIMING  OPENS CLOSES MAX LIFT   DURATION
      @ .050  INTAKE  3 BTDC 33 ABDC 105  °ATDC 216 °
TAPPET LIFT EXHAUST  43 BBDC (7) ATDC 115  °BTDC 216 °

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo











- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Peter Vollemans
Sent: Sunday, December 13, 1998 6:37 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Cam ID


I just pulled the cam out of my 403 and would like more info on it.
The manufacturers logo is CD.  Anybody know who that is?  The model is
272H10 and it is called Energizer.  Anyone have this cam or know about
it?  I'm need to know duration, lift, etc.  Thanks.

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 19:20:16 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: Nice weather

Not quite sure if you know this, but an Edelbrock Carb wont fit on a Olds
without a spacer, the linkage thingie hits the manifold.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 19:25:37 -0500
From: "Ken" <olds442@en.com>
Subject: Another cam id.. 

.670" lift Engle Cams/ Mondello designed steel billet roller cam
Cam grind numbers are 296-4R-8 and 308-5R-8 with a serial #V9367

Anyone got the specs on this badboy? Int/Exh lift/dur@.050/lobe ctr., power
range,compression,gears,stall?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 18:44:29 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 8000 RPM 350

Making a motor spin higher DOES NOT mean that it will make more power. Also
why spin a motor high to make powere when you can spin it low and make
power. Higher RPMs put so much more of a strain on a motor (parts wear
faster and break).
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: KarlAune@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 8000 RPM 350
> Date: Sunday, December 13, 1998 7:04 AM
> 
> In a message dated 98-12-13 05:19:17 EST, you write:
> 
> << What would it take to get a fresh .030 over 350 to get up to 7000 or
8000
>  RPM for the lowest cost.  I guess oil-system improvements, new
valve-springs
>  and balancing.  ??????  >>
> 
> ???? is also the first thoughts here.
> 
> You want to go to higher RPM's?
> 
> That will not make your power band broader.
> If anything, it will make the power band particularly noticeable when
your
> torque peak falls off at the higher RPM.
> 
> Or do you want to move your power band to higher RPM range and eliminate
your
> bottom end power?
> 
> Or mebbe Karl not understand question.
> 
> Again: ????
> 
> SOM
> 
> &KA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 18:47:30 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: 70-72 Fender 442 emblem color

I was wondering what color is the black outlining portion of the 4-4-2
fender emblem supposed to be. I think it is a flat black, but I have heard
semi-gloss also. Also the chrome parts of the emblem need to be cleaned and
shined up. What is a good way to do this?

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 18:50:05 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: 70-72 W-30 Hood Stripes

I was wondering if anyone has a trick to painting the ram-air hood stripes
on a 70-72 442. I know the dimensions but the problem I am having is in the
front making the stripe curves round. A stencil kit or an outline would
make it easier. Anyone???


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 19:35:12 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Cam ID

It is either a Crane Cams or Cam Dynamics 272 advertised duration.
Strangely, Energizer is Crane's trademark, but Cam Dynamics is owned by
Crane. Here's the specs:
216 degrees duration at .050" (intake and exhaust)
.484" lift (intake and exhaust)
Intake opens at 27 BTDC, closes 65 ABDC
Exhaust opens 67 BBDC closes 25 ATDC
RPM Range, minimum: 2000 rpm, maximum: 5000 rpm, valve float: 6500 rpm.
required springs Crane part #99833

Should be a good street cam, fairly smooth idle with good torque.


- -----Original Message-----

>I just pulled the cam out of my 403 and would like more info on it.
>The manufacturers logo is CD.  Anybody know who that is?  The model is
>272H10 and it is called Energizer.  Anyone have this cam or know about
>it?  I'm need to know duration, lift, etc.  Thanks.
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 19:38:22 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Another cam id..

YIKES!

- -----Original Message----

>.670" lift Engle Cams/ Mondello designed steel billet roller cam
>Cam grind numbers are 296-4R-8 and 308-5R-8 with a serial #V9367
>
>Anyone got the specs on this badboy? Int/Exh lift/dur@.050/lobe ctr., power
>range,compression,gears,stall?
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 19:52:35 -0500
From: dclover@epix.net
Subject: Re: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST

Ditto; I didn't sign on for mail from late Friday nite till Sunday at
1930 hrs.  I got 355 messages, probably 75 to 80 % OLDS material...thats
a lot for the average Joe (OK we are not average since we own Olds' but
you get the point!) to review and assimilate.

DJ 
'70 conv

JonKrisInc@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 12/10/98 11:14:43 PM EST, igor455@home.com writes:
> 
> << Lately there does not seem to be as much mail as before.  I
> remember a year
>  back I would get swamped with mail daily.  Now it seems less.  Hmm,
> anybody
>  else. >>
> 
> You must be joking. I get enough mail each day to wallpaper my garage!
> Are we
> tuned to the same station?
> Bruce
> 75 Delta 88 conv. (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 18:55:28 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: head flow info 

My personal reason for getting excited was the 60cc chambers.  The C heads
have 80cc chambers which would seriously drop the CR down to around 7.8 on
a motor that would be 9:1 with 64cc heads.  If you used the 10.25:1 pistons
that
are readily available your CR would come out somewhere around 9:1 so why
bother.  With the 60cc heads I could get a "true" 10.25:1 CR even with the
available thick head gaskets.  And when I get bored just bolt em on a 403,
which
would bump the CR to 10.0:1 with stock pistons, along with a quick cam swap
and
run it till it blows!  Just stumbled on a great idea!  Just use junkyard
short blocks
rotate em out every 6 months or so and never worry about over revving the
motor
again!

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

> One a related note. Some fellows were hoping that Edelbrock was coming out
with
>another head, possibly aimed at use on a serious small block[it turned out
to be a
>misprint]. I bet a "C" head with  decent prep would work real well on a
serious
>high rpm small block of 350-370 inches. I believe there's a few intakes out
there
>that have enough meat to allow the ports to be raised high enough.
> I've always wanted to build an aluminum rod, steel crank, big
bore[4.125"-4.185"]
>small block, and equip it with a "C" head.  I bet it would rev like a 377
>C*evy[4.155"X3.48"].
>The problem for me has always been, you can build a 455 just as cheaply.
> Is there anyone on the list with a small block with bb heads?
>Dave Brode
>64 Cutlass
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 19:59:04 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: 70-72 Fender 442 emblem color

> I was wondering what color is the black outlining portion of the 4-4-2
> fender emblem supposed to be. I think it is a flat black, but I have heard
> semi-gloss also. Also the chrome parts of the emblem need to be cleaned and
> shined up. What is a good way to do this?

It was flat black originally, however, some GM ones I bought from the
dealership to stockpile in the mid 80s have the fender numbers painted
with flat black, but the trunk numerals in gloss black.  And, since they
came from GM this way, that's the way I'm going to keep them.

Use a good chrome polish to try and clean up the emblems.  The problem
with them is that they are pot metal and pit rather easily in the
weather.  Then they're pretty much done.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 20:00:20 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: 70-72 W-30 Hood Stripes

> I was wondering if anyone has a trick to painting the ram-air hood stripes
> on a 70-72 442. I know the dimensions but the problem I am having is in the
> front making the stripe curves round. A stencil kit or an outline would
> make it easier. Anyone???
> 
Stencils and Stripes has a stencil kit.  708-692-6093
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 08:05:33 -0500
From: "person" <vbdeveloper@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Olds Manuals

This was E-Mailed to me privately. Respond to  f85@juno.com


1980 Olds Omega Service Manual  excellent condition   $40.00
1973 Fisher Body Service Manual   excellent condition   $35.00
1973 Fisher Body Service Manual   excellent condition   $35.00
1966 Olds Chassis Service Manual   Both covers missing, otherwise good,
    includes series '33'through'86' & series '94' through '96'  $35.00
1964 Olds Service manual, Vol. 1,2,4 & 5, ex. condition     $20.00 each
or $70.00 for 4
1953 Olds Maintenance Manual   good condition            $30.00

If you know of anyone interested in these, they can email me.

Good luck with you Olds 98.
Fred

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+
+
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
VBDeveloper@worldnet.att.net

                                       =
                                           =
                                                =
==================================
'69 Olds Ninety-Eight Topless Bubba=====
====666=================999============
        666                                  999

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 19:07:40 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 8000 RPM 350

True, BUT, on a 350 with the Performer RPM package the engine's
peak hp (397) is at 6,000 rpm redline.  This motor will continue to
make more hp further up in the rpm's.  So in this case there is more
power to be had by spinning the motor higher.  Why? I did it to get
450 hp out of a small block and embarass a bunch of ch*vy guys.
("honest, just a stock 350 Olds with a cam, look for yourself!")
Once you've made enough power down low to make traction a
problem but you still want to run faster the only other place to add
it is up the rev range.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>Making a motor spin higher DOES NOT mean that it will make more power. Also
>why spin a motor high to make powere when you can spin it low and make
>power. Higher RPMs put so much more of a strain on a motor (parts wear
>faster and break).
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 20:17:42 -0500
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <tjacquillard@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: Olds problem

Gary Lieb wrote:
> 
> My 87 cutlass ciera is starting then sputtering out 5 seconds later. If
> i rev the engine it will start on the second or third try. I dont have
> any idea what the prblem is. Please help I need the car running well as
> fast as i can. Thanks this list has been a life saver

OK, I am just guessing here due to the fact that I had the same problem
once. Check to make sure that the fuel pump is keeping prime. Sounds
like you are running off the fuel in the bowl and then waiting to get
enough up to carb. before it will continue to run. Maybe revving the
engine makes the mechanical pump, pump faster? Don't really know. Like I
said, I had this problem and a new pump fixed it. Hope this works, I am
sure that others might have other ideas and that if I am wrong they will
get you in the right direction. Just trying to help.
T.J.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 20:23:29 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds problem

fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel somthing
Kelly 1966 Cutlass
http://kellys-oldsmobile.iscool.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 18:52:06 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: 8000 RPM 350

> I am just
> wondering if Olds could do it as well.

Well, my 350 Rocket would (and did) hit 8K several times.  Ran a Comp Cams 280
Magnum, straight up, power band from around 3K to 6.5K strongly, and slowly
taperred down from there.  With the 2.29's, it was a ~DOG~ off the line, but
once I hit 35 mph, there was no stopping it.  Shift from first between 75~95,
depending on moods, and second to third happened at some unseen mileage.  From 
a
running start, nothing would keep up with me.  Nothing.  But from a standstill,
I was @#$#ed...  That engine met it's demise when a vandal yanked out two plug
wires and took off the radiator cap.  I noticed the plug wires right away, and
plugged 'em back on.  I was in the process of doing the rallye swap, and still
hadn't gotten the sending units, so the speedo was all I had that night.  Well,
I got in a race on the way home.  Overheated the piss out of it, and blew 'er
up.  Six years ago.  I swear I would have killed the kid, if I ever found out
who did it.  Well, I found out.  Last night.  The wounds have all healed, and
all ended up OK for the Rockit in the end, but I may still have to pay him an
anonymous visit next time I'm in Havre.....

Oh, back on topic.  With a more agressive gear, and a powerband that high, with
a good stall on it, I think it'd end up being quite a performer.
- -- 

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 20:56:26 EST
From: Mr57olds@aol.com
Subject: Re: engine assembly 101

In a message dated 98-12-12 22:30:26 EST, you write:

<< Rebuilding the 400  for  the '69 442.  Questions,
 
     top ring-bevel side down? right
     2d ring- dot side up? right
 
 I looked at the Mondello supertuning figures which say the top ring should
 be .011-.014 and the 2d should be .010-.012.
 
 Well, the second ring out of the box is .017.  What's up with that?  I mean,
 I know the stock clearance is .020 but what the heck am I supposed to do
 now? >>

If one side of ring is not marked with word "top", "up", or dot then the
inside bevel goes up.  If there is an outside bevel (rare) then it goes down.
This applies to all compression rings.   As for gap, you need enough to keep
from ever butting the ends of rings.  As the rings heat up the end gap gets
less.  .012 should be minimum for top and .010 for 2nd rings.  You will never
see a difference at .017.   Most important!!!  Make sure bores are clean prior
to installing pistons and rings.
Mr57olds

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 19:09:11 -0700
From: ML Duke <mlduke@concentric.net>
Subject: The Olds Must Go--A Sad Day

We bought this 1965 442 brand new and gave it to our son when he turned
16 in 1978. It promptly
began a life of sitting and not being worked on as per agreement--the
young are what they are.

So, by and by, I spent 6 years restoring it to original: Brothers
Automotive interior installed by an
Artist, body/paint the same, zero bondo, color coded emeron lemon yellow
paint, rebuilt original
engine with balanced pistons and crank, 350 rear end,
3/4 cam (something like that). Quicker than new, maybe even better. New
everything. Well, come
to think of it, the wiring harness was/is perfectly useable. Mag wheels
on, original rims included,
2 Rochester carbs, books/manuals, 2 extra tail light assemblies, some
other stuff. Both auto body
man and engine mechanic available for conversation.

A couple of things like original battery cables needed to go show
competition. Have the entire
restoration process on tape.

It makes me a little ill, but its my job now to sell it. Would love to
find it a home with someone
who actually appreciates it for what it is. The kid (now 35 who did pay
the restoration bill) wants
$20K, which is pretty close to actual cost. Naturally, me the dad, who
has just started this process
this very day, is doing further research. Father knows best--but of
course.

ML Duke
Nampa, Idaho
208-461-9293
Please only the serious use the above number.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 21:20:08 -0500
From: toddmorr@us.ibm.com
Subject: 69 Cutlass FS

Saw an interesting 69 Cutlass for sale today.  Original owner, 137k miles,
4 sp, 310HP 350, PS, AC, buckets, console, no PDB, rear defroster, chrome
wheel moldings, single exhaust, AM radio.  He's maintained it very well,
interior is better than show quality, original seat covers all around (boy,
they're so much beefier than the Year One repos), AC works, even the rear
defroster works.  Tranny is rebuilt but engine has never needed anything
beyond a timing chain/gear, and several water pumps.  Car has one repaint
in the early 80s and the usual metal was replaced in the fenders/quarters.
Paint still looks quite good although there are some parking lot dings in
the doors.  No bubbles/rust at all at this point.  Basically we have here
an exceptional condition original with unusual options (4sp w/310HP engine
Y74?)  Anyway, he's asking $4500.  4k strikes me as a good deal.
Opinions??

Todd Morris
Mgr. High End System Sales
8/262-1658 or 301-803-1658, or fax 2845
6710 Rockledge Drive, Bethesda, MD 20817

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 18:14:33 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Traction Bars on Delta

Igor T. '81 DRB 455 wrote:
> 
>     And also, can someone please explain to me HOW IN THE HELL did the big
> w-30s hook up with their 3.91 rears and those skinny-ass tires.  


Igor,

One word: Finesse.


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 21:24:24 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69 Cutlass FS

Buy it, it sounds good

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 22:13:42 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Pontmobile Question

I have a 79 Pontmobile....   79 Trans Am with a 403.   I noticed in my
Supercars Unlimited catalog that they have pilot berring adapter for automatic
cranks.  Soooo.....     I got to thinking about M-20 I have in the attic, and
the clutch pedal asembly I have, and the 4-speed console I have....  you get
the drift.   The question I have is, what flywheel will I need for the 403?
Will any B.O.P. bell housing work, or do I need one specificly from an Olds?
Also, is there a threaded bung for the little ball that the clutch cross shaft
attaches to on an olds block, or did olds attahc it to the bell housing?  

Thanks for the help!
Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 23:20:10 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE:  The Olds Must Go--A Sad Day

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	ML Duke <mlduke@concentric.net>
Subject: The Olds Must Go--A Sad Day

We bought this 1965 442 brand new and gave it to our son when he turned
16 in 1978. It promptly
began a life of sitting and not being worked on as per agreement--the
young are what they are.

So, by and by, I spent 6 years restoring it to original: Brothers
Automotive interior installed by an
Artist, body/paint the same, zero bondo, color coded emeron lemon yellow
paint, rebuilt original
engine with balanced pistons and crank, 350 rear end,
3/4 cam (something like that). Quicker than new, maybe even better. New
everything. Well, come
to think of it, the wiring harness was/is perfectly useable. Mag wheels
on, original rims included,
2 Rochester carbs, books/manuals, 2 extra tail light assemblies, some
other stuff. Both auto body
man and engine mechanic available for conversation.

A couple of things like original battery cables needed to go show
competition. Have the entire
restoration process on tape.

It makes me a little ill, but its my job now to sell it. Would love to
find it a home with someone
who actually appreciates it for what it is. The kid (now 35 who did pay
the restoration bill) wants
$20K, which is pretty close to actual cost. Naturally, me the dad, who
has just started this process
this very day, is doing further research. Father knows best--but of
course.

ML Duke
Nampa, Idaho
208-461-9293
Please only the serious use the above number.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 22:45:38 EST
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Re: 70 442 mirror

 still waiting for address for 70 442 mirror..
jeff    770  723-9345 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 22:49:03 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: head flow info 

From what I've come to learn, the Edelbrock Aluminum #6051 BB heads only
require the head bolt holes drilled out to 1/2" to be utilized on the SB. At
least that's what is required for 403 SB usage.

I do believe I have some flow specs around here somewhere. Ah yes, direct
from Edelbrock:

#6051 Cylinder Head Specs


Part Number In.                 #6051
runner volume Ex.              188cc
runner volume                    106cc
Chamber volume                77cc
Deck thickness                   5/8"
Intake valve size                 2.072"
Exhaust valve size            1.680"
Valve spring diameter         1.45"
Rocker stud diameter          3/8"
Pushrod diameter (A)          5/16"
Intake Valve (1)             #9375
Intake Valves (8)            #9376
Exhaust Valve (1)            #9377
Exhaust Valves (8)           #9378
Valve Springs (16)           #5767
Retainers (16)               #9613
Keepers (32)                 #9611



Cylinder Head Flow Data at 28" H2O

             Flow @ valve lift

             .100"    67-67/54
             .200"  131-131/102
             .300"  195-195/137
             .400"  245-247/163
             .500"  278-256/179
             .600"  268-259/188
             .700"  xxxxxxxxxxxxx


- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
ICQ# 5209322
mailto:gjcouse@CC-IROC-SS.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
Send Project Questions To:
mailto:info@CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit < G.J.C > at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 21:52:04 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Traction Bars on Delta

>One word: Finesse.


Finesse is fine, but 1/4 launches trough the entire intersections are not
good enough, especially if the pavement is slick.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1663
*********************************

