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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1613


oldsmobile-digest      Friday, November 20 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1613



Re: Sorry-previous message sent before finished!
Re: Olds 455 oiling system
Re: Sorry-previous message sent before finished!
Damn Germans ???
Re:  HEADS >>  Heat Riser Filling.
Re:  HEADS >>  Heat Riser Filling.
Re: HEADS >> Heat Riser Filling.
RE: motor check stand
72' 350
Re: Mondello:Prices!?
Re: motor stand & carbs
Rear end gears
Re: motor stand & carbs
Undercoat for engine paint/best bronze.
Re: Those Damn Blue Headlights
valve cover gaskets
Re: Undercoat for engine paint/best bronze.
Re: valve cover gaskets
Re: Mondello:Prices!?
Re: POR-15 : Pleucid
Re: Valve Colors
Re: Rear end gears
RE: Rear end gears
No ACDelco part # 9X and Karl busy....
used parts available/offered for sale
Re: Olds 455 oiling system
RE: speedo gear info
Re: Olds 455 oiling system
dead lean solved ( I think)
Re: Those Damn Blue Headlights
Automotive calculations
Turkey Rod Run Daytona
Re: Baaad Day!!!!!
Re: HEADS >>  Heat Riser Filling.
(no subject)
RE: HEADS >>  Heat Riser Filling.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 04:31:19 -0600 (CST)
From: blue442@webtv.net
Subject: Re: Sorry-previous message sent before finished!

Hope there were no inadvertent obscenities! The oil pump spring should
be shimmed to avoid moderate to high pressure bypass, according to
mechanic from the prev. message. Please keep this thread going.   I am
building a 455 and want to build it strong, and only want to build it
once!   I will try to stay in the shadows and listen to some Olds gurus
do the talking.
Jeff Carter
68 442, looking better every day 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 06:16:12 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Olds 455 oiling system

Anything that can increase the oil capacity from the stock 4 quarts is a
plus. Even 1 quart oil filters(if you got the clearance) are better. There
is nothing you can really do, short of pulling the motor out and changing
the pump and pan. 5000RPM is considered "high RPM" for a stock 455. Even a
remote oil cooler is adding more capacity, the only drawback I heard of is
it may drop your oil pressure because of the extra traveling distance the
oil now must travel.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: DYeager535@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Olds 455 oiling system
> Date: Friday, November 20, 1998 2:12 AM
> 
>      I was also told the same about using high volume oil pumps, in ANY
> vehicle with a small oil pan..there just isn't enough oil to keep up at
high
> rpm. The FAQ addresses the oiling problem (especially the heads
drainback)  a
> little if I remember correctly, but how about the Small Blocks too? Same
basic
> principles right? Any pretty easy (IE cheap) solution that would help or
solve
> this problem? How about the diesel radiator coolers? Are they in the
oiling
> system in a place that would help in high RPM situations, since they add
a bit
> ( I know probably not much) of oil too? What exactly is considered high
RPM
> for these statements? 5000? 6000? I know, more questions, but I'm trying
to
> learn, and keep my engine oiled too : )   Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 06:24:32 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Sorry-previous message sent before finished!

In my 455 motor I have gallery restrictors in #2,3 & 4. I also have
restricted cam bearing holes (.100) & restricted Mondello pushrods. The
lifters (hydraulic) are also restrictive. I have a high volume, high
pressure oil pump with a 7quart pan. With the oil filter makes a total of 7
1/2 quart oil capacity. I spoke to Joe Mondello personally on the phone and
he stated that with my setup I still am getting 25% too much oil up top.
Which is ALOT better than stock which may be over 100% too much oil in the
top end. MY setup is perfect for street driving. Also your main and rod
clearances should be at 2 1/2. Get the technical reference manual from
Mondello it will help out ALOT. The oil pump also has an anti-cavitation
design built into it. With the above setup you should have a high
performance and much better and longer lasting 455 motor than stock would
have had. 
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: blue442@webtv.net
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Sorry-previous message sent before finished!
> Date: Friday, November 20, 1998 4:31 AM
> 
> Hope there were no inadvertent obscenities! The oil pump spring should
> be shimmed to avoid moderate to high pressure bypass, according to
> mechanic from the prev. message. Please keep this thread going.   I am
> building a 455 and want to build it strong, and only want to build it
> once!   I will try to stay in the shadows and listen to some Olds gurus
> do the talking.
> Jeff Carter
> 68 442, looking better every day 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 07:22:39 -0500
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Damn Germans ???

>Must be those damn Germans,
>Lou Biggs
>



They're back ?????????   I'll get the 4th Armoured after them !!!!!!!!

The General

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 08:01:30 EST
From: CS81w350@aol.com
Subject: Re:  HEADS >>  Heat Riser Filling.

On the same subject, I see that Edelbrock sells some cast iron plugs for the
exhaust crossover for Oldsmobiles (#2733 page 64 of 1998 catalog).  I wondered
if anyone has tried these or has any opinions to share.  I plan on having some
#6 heads I got from a salvage yard worked over and putting them on this
winter.  This is for a street driven car and so I didn't plan to block off the
heat riser, but I already have an electric choke, so I haven't ruled anything
out yet.  These plugs probably don't give you all of the benefits of using
molten metal (rounding out the exhaust runner), but they would be easier.
Although red hot molten metal does sound like a lot more fun to play with.

Matt Pokorny
cs81w350@aol.com
Ames, Iowa

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 08:01:25 EST
From: CS81w350@aol.com
Subject: Re:  HEADS >>  Heat Riser Filling.

Donny wrote:

"Has anyone here filled their exhaust heat risers with plain ole everyday
aluminum?  Do I have to use Zinc-Aluminum Alloy?
What's the best way to melt the stuff down?  << All I have is a handheld
propane torch...."

from Mondello catalog:

item number "ZA 12"
"Zinc alloy ingots used to block off exhaust heat risers on the intake side of
head.  Stand head on intake side with exhaust ports up and head disassembled.
Melt in cast iron pan over a burner and pour into center exhaust ports. Head
must be ported afterwards.  It takes 810 F to melt ZA-12 and approximately 25
minutes on a large gas stove burner with a heavy cast iron pan or ladle."

I have no personal experiance with this process, but it seems to me that you
had better know what you are doing.  The zinc alloy is probably used for the
low melting point, ease of use, and lessoning the possibility of warping the
head.  according to the book I have handy, the melting point of most aluminum
alloys is about 1200 F.  A hand held propane torch isn't going to handle the
zinc stuff, let alone the plain old aluminum.  Oh, and there really isn't
anything such as plain old aluminum.  Almost any metal used for anything is
some kind of alloy mixture.  Most people think that cast iron is just the
element iron.  Actually "cast iron" is more of an alloy mixture than a plain
carbon steel.  
      I don't mean to imply that you shouldn't try it.  Just do more research,
and try to talk to someone who has done it themselves.

Matt Pokorny
cs81w350@aol.com
Ames,Iowa

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 08:36:49 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Re: HEADS >> Heat Riser Filling.

>On the same subject, I see that Edelbrock sells some cast iron plugs for the
>exhaust crossover for Oldsmobiles (#2733 page 64 of 1998 catalog).  I
wondered
>if anyone has tried these or has any opinions to share.

I have used the ones that Mondello sells.  They took some massaging with a die
grinder to get them to fit since they are oversize to begin with.  The worst
part was trimming the back side down where they meet the valve guide.  I did
manage to get a snug fit, but I doubt if they really sealed tight. I also used
the gaskets from Mondello which had no opening for the heat cross over.  I
believe I bought the whole mess as a kit.  The molten metal would be a
superior technique, but for the average guy with a die grinder the plugs will
work.  Some day if I ever pull the intake, I will check to see if the gasket
has burned through or not.  I can't say if they actually did any good, because
I am running a Holley intake and have not used a choke in years, so I can't
use the choke as any indication.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 09:07:21 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: RE: motor check stand

Does the olds HAVE to have the flywheel bolted on for balancing when test
firing?
________

Uh...It's going to be kind of hard to start the motor without one...

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 06:06:32 -0800 (PST)
From: JHJ <bluesupreme84@yahoo.com>
Subject: 72' 350

Have acquired an OLDS-350 out of a Delta 88.  Problem is that what
timing to set with an HEI, spark plugs and gap, total advance and type
of fuel to use.  Also it has the 64cc Heads.  Then I have a 77'
Olds-403.  I got the 403 at .030 over but will go to .040 but don't
know what else to do to get the maximum in stock form with flat top
pistons.



                                                 thank you
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 09:18:50 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Mondello:Prices!?

 ...Look in your Jegs and Summit catalogs
and good luck trying to find Olds engine parts...
________

While I know it's frustrating to thumb through one of these and see all the
Chevy and Ford parts, please keep in mind that just because the items
aren't listed in the catalog doesn't mean that they don't exist.  Summit
and Jegs are trying to make a profit while selling at a lower price than
most.  As a result, they typically stock and advertise only the most
popular parts (read that Chevy and Ford).  Most of the vendors they feature
also make similar parts for Olds.  Sometimes These two houses can get these
parts, despite the fact that the items are not listed in the catalog.  It
may help if you have the vendor's part number when you call Jegs or Summit
on one of these items.  Failing that, call the manufacturer directly and
ask if they sell directly or if they can recommed a distributor.  As an
example, neither Jegs nor Summit list all the Federal Mogul piston and
bearing sizes, yet FM sells a huge variety.  Yes, Mondello lists all of
them, but I've found that you can get the same items for much less money
from outfits like Norther Auto Parts.  Keep in mind that most of what he
sells is other companies' stuff which has been relabled with his part
numbers.  Every set of hands that touches the item extracts some additional
profit.  It's worth a little time doing the research.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 09:48:12 -0500
From: Jim Olson <jolson@edzone.net>
Subject: Re: motor stand & carbs

Like ah sed before, jus' hook up a rope to ol' betsy and wrap it around
the pulley on the front, 'n give her a pat!

*grin*

Sorry, it's a bit of sick humor... couldn't resist. 

I do have a legit question though, and it concerns the main well plugs
on my Qjet. In order to fix the leakage problem, I pull the base plate
off the carb, then pull the spongy thing off, and fill it in with epoxy,
right?

Jim...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 08:54:06 -0600
From: "Drusch, Wayne (Human Resources & Risk Mgmt)" 
<wayne_drusch@co.harris.tx.us>
Subject: Rear end gears

If you have a 2.56 rear end gear, with a turbo 350 tranny running in
second gear will let you see what 3.90 gears feel like. Can't hear
yourself think at 65 mph. If you run the highway much at all, 3.42 is as
low as I would go and you would still have the motor pushing 3000 rpm at
65-70 mph. If you are into racing go for the 3.73.and up. 

E. Wayne Drusch
71 Cutlass Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 10:04:29 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: motor stand & carbs

In a message dated 98-11-20 09:50:35 EST, you write:

<< I do have a legit question though, and it concerns the main well plugs
 on my Qjet. In order to fix the leakage problem, I pull the base plate
 off the carb, then pull the spongy thing off, and fill it in with epoxy,
 right? >>

"fill it in" is not exactly what I would say.
You are right, it should be done (do the primary well plugs as well as the
secondary plugs), but the well plugs are in a spot where they are raised (if
carb inverted) from the bottom of the carb body.

Prep the surface area with a fine file, and then only a circle of epoxy is
needed. As long as you do not get it on other stuff, use as necessary.

And ensure the epoxy mixed well before starting.

Good luck

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 08:17:29 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Undercoat for engine paint/best bronze.

Hi all,

Just a couple of quick questions;

    1) Is there a way to keep engine paint from burning off
of the heat riser?  The rest of my current engine looks good
but the paint burnt off of the middle of the intake and now
it's rusting.  I'll be putting a new engine together shortly
and I want it to look good for many years.

    2) Who sells the best bronze engine paint and do I have
to buy it from a catalogue place or does someone have the
codes for getting it mixed?

    3) What undercoat should I use?

    Thanks in advance.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 07:21:46 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Those Damn Blue Headlights

> There are several types of new lights out there.  Most of the ones
> you will see are simply bulbs that are coated to generate the 
> blue/rainbowish or yellow glow.  The really cool ones are found on
> the new Lincoln Mark series, Lexus Coupes etc.  These lights are a
> new system called a "High Intensity Discharge" system.

Yup. Chances are, the genuine HID systems are not the ones bothering
you; it's the aftermarket fake coated bulbs, possibly in combination
with badly-aimed headlamps (that may have got that way when the owner
was fumbling around trying to switch bulbs).

For some reason cops around here (Chicago) really hate them and say
they'll pull over any non-HID car (e.g. Honda Civics) with blue
headlamps. Not sure what the charge would be, though...

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 09:30:04 -0600
From: "Drusch, Wayne (Human Resources & Risk Mgmt)" 
<wayne_drusch@co.harris.tx.us>
Subject: valve cover gaskets

Boy, who would of thought valve cover gaskets would have generated so
much conversation! Now my $.02 worth--- my 86 Custom Cruiser's 307 came
from the factory with out valve cover gaskets. Used silicone only, and
that is what I used as a fix when they started leaking after six years
or so.

By the way, I have my old 1986 G-body, Custom Cruiser Chassis Service
Manual available for $45.00 if anyone is interested.


E. Wayne Drusch
71 Cutlass Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 10:29:29 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Undercoat for engine paint/best bronze.

I can't say that I've done an exhaustive comparison test, but I've been
using Fusick's bronze on my 69 442.  Unfortunately, I don't have any
original paint to compare the color, but it seems to cover pretty well and
looks good.  I will say that despite an attempt to thoroughly shake and mix
the paint (I'm using the aerosol cans), the paint still seems quite thin
and runs easily.  It takes may thin coats to do a good job, and as a
result, the level of metallic varies considerably with application
thickness - thinner coats seem to be more silver than thick coats.  I
suspect that the "thick coat" color looks more correct, but then you have
the risk of runs again.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 10:35:40 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: valve cover gaskets

OK, it's time to wade into this mess.  First question:  does the 307 in
question have the cheesy five bolt valve covers instead of the normal ten
bolt covers?  This may be your biggest problem.  Obviously, all the prior
posts on checking flatness should be followed, but face it, the gap between
the bolts will be greater.  Consider using some of the Chevy-type load
spreaders under the valve cover bolts (you'll need longer bolts) to help
distribute the clamping force more uniformly.  Also, while I have used RTV
for valve covers with good results, I prefer to use good quality neoprene
gaskets.  I install them dry, with no adhesive, RTV, or additional sealer.
I've never had a problem on stock valve covers (M/T cast aluminum is
another problem all together, however), but of course, I've got the ten
bolt units.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 10:45:38 EST
From: Jon442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Mondello:Prices!?

The old adage of getting what you pay for usually holds true. Yes, Mondello
may be somewhat higher than a discount auto parts store. But you cannot put a
price on experience and knowledge. You can call out to CA and talk with either
Joe or one of his representatives, tell them what you are building and what
your goals are, and they will give you the straight scoop. That is something
the kid at the discount parts center cannot tell you. An engine is a very
complex piece of machinery involving many moving parts that all must work in
sync, not to mention the non-moving parts such as the carb, intake, exhaust,
etc. One mistake in one area, and you've negated any gains you made in other
areas. Everyone has their theories about what works best, but an Olds is a
different breed of cat, and Joe has "been there, done that". Go ahead and buy
your gaskets and plugs and other incidentals at the local parts store. But
when it comes to the important stuff, deal with someone who knows what they
are talking about.

There is another member of this list that will also do the same thing for you.
Greg Rollin at Supercars Unlimited is a walking Olds encyclopedia. I recently
had an email conversation with him about vehicle handling and found him to be
very helpful. As a result, I am buying a set of springs from him for my '72
project. Are they a little bit higher than what I could buy them for down the
street at the parts store? Maybe. But the extra few dollars I will spend are
worth it to me because I know I am getting the results I want. And I am
supporting an Olds enthusiast who cares about Olds and is willing to help
other enthusiasts. Greg is also very knowledgeable about engines as well and
races Oldsmobiles, so he knows his stuff.

Off my soapbox now....

Jon

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 10:45:37 EST
From: Jon442@aol.com
Subject: Re: POR-15 : Pleucid

In a message dated 11/20/98 1:28:24 AM Central Standard Time,
PETTRIX@prodigy.net writes:

<< Has anyone out there used the new POR-15 product called pleucid on chrome
 bumpers? I was looking to have my 72 Olds bumpers painted with this stuff.
 My questions are is if it leaves streaks or bubbles if painted with a foam
 brush? How does it look? Is it comparable to a good chrome buffing job, or
 is it better? >>

I just used some Pelucid on the backs of my new chrome wheels, thinking it
would make them easier to keep clean. Like POR15, it dries rock hard. But it
is perfectly clear. I applied it with a foam brush and it left no bubbles or
streaks... you cannot tell it is on the wheels. The only thing that has kept
me from applying it to the fronts of the wheels is that I have not had any
prior experience with it or know anyone who has. I'm sure it would work, and I
may do it yet. I don't believe it will change the appearance of the chrome, ie
make it shinier. It has no gloss to it, so I think the chrome would need to be
in good shape before the Pelucid is applied. 

Jon

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 10:54:36 -0500
From: EJ <oldsluvr@bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Valve Colors

You know what happened to me once. I had a 77 C*ugar 351, and almost the
same scenario, new gaskets, still leaking, what the @##$ ???...etc.
Turns out the metal of the valve cover tore and split right where one of
the bolts goes thru the cover. Probably due to my previous
over-tightenings, when new gaskets should have went in. It was very
difficult to see, as the head of the bolt sort of hid most of the
offending problem. The area split in almost a complete half circle
around the bolt hole area. This split was at the back of the bolt, where
the lip/gasket mating surface of the valve cover meets the "wall" so to
speak, of the cover. Check it out, look carefully. I went ape trying to
find this leak, and believe me the oil POURED out of that spot. You can
always pick up a cheap used set of valve covers at your local junk yard.

EJ


- -- 
"EJ"  In Hamilton Township, New Jersey, suburb of Trenton
On digest where availabile, not regular mail
E-Mail: oldsluvr@bellatlantic.net
                               The "Fleet"
1979 Pontiac "Olds organ donor" Trans Am T-tops Rebuilt Olds 6.6L 403 
     4bbl-TH350 Performer Cam and Intake.....going into the Calais
     For Sale. Click on the link below.....
http://www.1pontiac.com/cgi-bin/1pontiac-cgi/webbbs1-cgi/config.pl?read=3210
1984 Olds Cutlass Calais T-Tops 5.0L 307 4bbl-TH350-2.14 gears K+N.....
     soon to be 6.6L 403 4bbl, and hopefully some better "rear" gears
1985 Olds Toronado 5.0L 307 4bbl-AOD(newly acquired Sept. 98). 
1992 Lincoln Mark VII LSC Moonroof 5.0L 302 EFI HO-AOD-3.27 gears
     inner fender baffle removed-K+N.
1992 Ford F-250 Reg-Cab 4WD 7.5L 460 EFI-E4OD Auto-3.55 gears.
     3-inch converter-dual outlet flowmaster 3 chamber.
     Complete K+N(no more factory air-box)-ADS Super Chip-Spitfires-
     Accel Super Coil-Cap-Rotor & 8.8 wires.
1994 Toyota Camry Sedan 4-banger-(Wow we could have had a V6!)-"mili
     -liter"-AOD. K+N (why did I even bother, still a slug!) 
     My SO's rider

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 10:53:53 EST
From: Jon442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rear end gears

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- --part0_911577234_boundary
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Attached to this email is a very simple Excel program for determining what
your highway RPM will be using specific gear ratios.

Simply plug in the gear ratio you are considering (format: 3.73), the cruising
speed (format: 60), your tire diameter (format: 27.5), and the program will
calculate the RPMs for you. The program assumes a 1:1 top gear ratio. It also
makes an additional calculation for automatic transmissions by adding 500 RPM
to account for converter slippage. 

Jon

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- --part0_911577234_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 10:57:11 -0500
From: Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca
Subject: RE: Rear end gears

I actually just switched to 3.42 gears and running at 60 mph I'm @ 2600rpm.

My exhaust isn't too noisy but it is a difference compared to what I was
used to, i.e. 2.73 gears...


> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Drusch, Wayne (Human Resources & Risk Mgmt)
> [SMTP:wayne_drusch@co.harris.tx.us]
> Sent:	Friday, November 20, 1998 9:54 AM
> To:	'Olds List'
> Subject:	Rear end gears
> 
> If you have a 2.56 rear end gear, with a turbo 350 tranny running in
> second gear will let you see what 3.90 gears feel like. Can't hear
> yourself think at 65 mph. If you run the highway much at all, 3.42 is as
> low as I would go and you would still have the motor pushing 3000 rpm at
> 65-70 mph. If you are into racing go for the 3.73.and up. 
> 
> E. Wayne Drusch
> 71 Cutlass Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 10:57:18 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: No ACDelco part # 9X and Karl busy....

First, apparently part # 9X does not exist anymore.
Probably to do with the sale of RPD to Magnetti Marelli.

Unfortunate, as Dr. Barry describes this "part" as a comprehensive manual
(big) listing rod and jet part #s by application # as well as....

You get ther idea!

So Karl will send a good letter to Magnetti Marelli....

Further, Karl busy this weekend.

Aside from a DualJet rebuild and a rear axle assembly dissassembly/cleanup, as
well as the rebuild of a second DualJet and fabication of a multi-model carb
stand and.......

Well, you get the idea.
Will modify the Roch site to expain that there will be some inactivity.
(Now search-findable from Excite! taking a while for the other search engines
to add it to their search database)

Had a problem with installing the wrong oil filter on SOM (rubber O-ring too
large diameter - 'nother post....)

Will try to be ICQ/RT available at approx. 9pm central, but again, got lots to
do, so no promises.....

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 09:00:57 -0700
From: "kms/aha" <kmsaha@theriver.com>
Subject: used parts available/offered for sale

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BE1464.49839D80
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Re: 1965 Olds Vista Cruiser, have all roof glass, luggage rack & other =
parts from parts car. Any interest? Ken @ kmsaha@theriver.com or =
520-896-9585.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BE1464.49839D80
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Re: 1965 Olds Vista Cruiser, have all roof glass, =
luggage rack=20
&amp; other parts from parts car. Any interest? Ken @ <A=20
href=3D"mailto:kmsaha@theriver.com">kmsaha@theriver.com</A> or=20
520-896-9585.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BE1464.49839D80--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 11:21:43 -0500 (EST)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Re: Olds 455 oiling system

Oldsmobile engines can use some help with oiling.  There should be a hole 
in the right hand plug behind the cam sprocket to provide oiling to the 
timing chain but it will not do much with oil return.  A better fix is to 
elongate the drain hole on the left side so as to provide easier return 
for the oil from the lifter area and smooth the return holes located at 
each end of the heads.  Also, if run a double spring, double shim set up 
on the oil pump you will have about 60-75 lbs of pressure above idle 
speed. A standard oil filter will also provided greater pressure than a 
full flow race filter.  Just my 2 cents...

Do numerous oil and fileter changes for the first 1000 miles.. You will 
not believe how much crud and silicone will be in the filter no matter 
how carefully you put the engine together.

Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio 
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets  
  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 11:29:44 -0500
From: Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca
Subject: RE: speedo gear info

Guys, the math for this is very easy. Using the following formulas you will
get a very close approximation for the speed-gear you need. You need to do a
little research first, but this info. you should have and know especially if
you're talking about changing gears:

	Assume you already have 2.73 gears and the speedo drive gear has 31
teeth. This is your original matched setup that gives you the correct
driving speed. You now changed to 3.42 gears. You want to find out what
speedo gear to use, actually what you want to find out is the number of
teeth the speedo gear should have in order to achieve the correct speed on
the speedometer. 

The formulas:

		(original-gear)(original-speedo-gear) = (new gear)(unknown
x)
The math:

		2.73(31)=3.42(x), solve for x.

	In this case, x (# of teeth of the speedo gear) is 24.75 or 25
teeth. Simple. Effectively, using a 25 gear tooth for the speedo will bring
you back to your original speed gauge configuration using the new gears. 

Note: these number are fictitious. You need to find out the original gearing
first for you application.

Note: If the numbers you get for the speedo gears are not possible (read
they don't make them), then you will have to consider changing the other
gear the speedo gear mats to in order to achieve your correct configuration.
That is, after doing the math you find out that you need a 15 tooth speedo
gear, well this gear doesn't exist, so you may have to change the other gear
that the speedo mats to in order to correctly configure your speedo gauge.
This will happen when you switch to using a very low gearing, say from 2.14
you go to using 4.11's or even lower (5.10..etc), then you'll have to change
more than the speedo gear to correct your speedo.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	David Brode [SMTP:dbrode@hereintown.net]
> Sent:	Thursday, November 19, 1998 6:34 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	Re: speedo gear info
> 
> Hello,
>  I've had good luck choosing a speedo driven gear this way;
> 1. Determine what percentage the speedo is off - go 10 miles on the
> freeway, counting the mile markers to determine the percentage of
> "incorrectness".
> 2. Count the number of teeth on your driven gear.
> 3. Calculate the teeth count needed on the new gear.
>  In other words, if your odometer[and therefore your speedo] is 10%
> slow, you need a driven gear with 10% less teeth, and vice versa.
>  Hope this helps.
> Dave Brode 
> 64 Cutlass 10" tire, pump gas street car. 11.41@119.96

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 11:30:16 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds 455 oiling system

In a message dated 11/20/98 4:12:17 AM Pacific Standard Time,
PETTRIX@prodigy.net writes:

<< Even a
 remote oil cooler is adding more capacity, the only drawback I heard of is
 it may drop your oil pressure because of the extra traveling distance the
 oil now must travel. >>
     Where in the system IS the oil filter adapter for the factory oil cooler?
(diesel) The ones I have seen for Chevy have the inlet and outlet offset, like
one is above the bypass in the filter area...does the oil cooler drain back
into the pan at shut down? If so, that would screw up oil readings on te
dipstick...and leave you with less oil once it was started! Do the diesel pans
hold more oil anyway? I SHALL be getting my hands on a complete diesel one of
these days. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 10:54:47 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: dead lean solved ( I think)

About 10 days ago I posted a message about having put back on a carburetor 
that had worked fine prior to my doing some other "messing" with the motor. 
After reinstalling,  couldn't get the carb to run well, was verrrrrry lean, 
couldn't adjust. Got back some helpful suggestions from list.

Got into carb yesterday & found what looked like a piece of airhorn  gasket 
sucked into a primary jet. Believe problem solved.

Am confounding things, though, by trying to replicate specs for W-31 carb. 
Changed to .074 primary jets & .048 primary rods.  Also added high vol 
accelerator pump and high flow needle & seat valve. Remains to be seen what 
effects will result from all this fiddling other than increased fuel 
consumption.

roger 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 11:48:24 EST
From: Supafli50@aol.com
Subject: Re: Those Damn Blue Headlights

Actually  the blue headlights are an accesory that you can buy.  They are
extremely bright which is why you probally dont like them.  They were intended
for use with tinted headlight covers but I guess people like to blind others.
Matt
88 olds Cutlass Supreme Int.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 11:42:42 -0500
From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: Automotive calculations

Check out this site for automotive calculations:


	http://sura1.jlab.org/~bowling/auto_noframe.html

         ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
               Mark Cornea (Dr. Decal)  OCA# 4903
                             1970 W30 (red)

                     <mailto:drdecal@wwnet.net>
                     <mailto:mcornea@ford.com>

                    Visit http://www.drdecal.com
        ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 12:07:08 -0500
From: retrotek@phoenixat.com
Subject: Turkey Rod Run Daytona

We are looking for someone from central Florida who is going to Daytona who
may have an extra space on their car carrier.  We have two cars to sell and
would rather trailer the Oldsmobile over.  (For a fee, of course.)  

If you know anyone or have the extra space, email us at retrotek@phoenixat.com.

Thx

Robin

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 12:10:31 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Baaad Day!!!!!

Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:
> 
> > Second, if the insurance company is intent on totaling the car,
> > inquire if they have the option for you to buy the car back for
> > salvage value.  This way you get the car and the cash to get it
> > fixed.  Unfortunately, since the car will have been totaled, you
> > will likely have some sort of indication on your title that the
> > car has been salvaged or reconstructed.
> 
> Agreed; this part concerns me.
> __________
> 
> No argument from me.  I should have reiterated that I see this as a course
> of last resort only, to save the car from being scrapped.

As long as the owner doesn't pass title to the insurance company and
then back to the owner, there should be no notation on the title as to
its' misfortunes.  If you are willing to accept the max amount (usually
about 75%) the insurance company will pay to "repair" the car without
totalling it, then you have no problem in my view.  You will probably be
required to sign a statement that the insurance company has no further
liability in regards to that accident should further examination show
additional hidden damages not included in the original estimate and
settlement.  This is the way I have found it usually works anyway. 

Don Sowers

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 12:21:11 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: HEADS >>  Heat Riser Filling.

>On the same subject, I see that Edelbrock sells some cast iron plugs >for
the exhaust crossover for Oldsmobiles (#2733 page 64 of 1998 >catalog).  I
wondered if anyone has tried these or has any opinions to share.

I had them in a pair of 7a heads on my '72 350. I took them out after a
week. As already stated they come oversized, so I took the die grinder and
fitted them. I was afraid they were too tight, as it took a hammer to "seat"
them (make flush) the last 1/8".  Apparently not, as the one on the right
side came loose. I took the car to the track and after the second pass a
rattling started. Kinda like a bad water pump bearing. I ran it one more
time and by the time I got home it sounded like I had marbles in my intake.
When I removed the intake the plug was so loose that it cut a hole in the
intake gasket. I had used Mr. G's intake gaskets without the cutout for the
crossover. It had cut the gasket out perfectly and you could see where the
plug had been hitting the inside of the intake runner. It looks like the
plug shrunk.

If you want a pair, Summit sells them for $9.95.  Mine make a great set of
paper weights on my work bench. The heads for my 455 will get filled the
correct way.

Just my experience.....who knows, maybe I did something wrong when fitting
or installing them.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 11:38:10 -0800
From: Dana Cornelius <mecctazoo@gpcom.net>
Subject: (no subject)

I am located in sw Nebraska and have a 1934 olds touring sedan model f34, 
which is prtially dissassembled but complete.  The car has always been 
inside steel and most wood are in excellent original condition.  Car is 
complete with rear tire carrier and cover.  Also have had extensive 
engine work done by a qualified maching shop.  Would entertain any offer 
on the car as I have lost intrest in the project and would like to see 
someone complete it as it is a very solid car that was originally sold 
only 50 miles from where I live.  Anyone interested please contact me at 
meccdaco@gpcom.net  or call me at 308-352-4045  Thanks for your help!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 12:48:49 -0500
From: Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca
Subject: RE: HEADS >>  Heat Riser Filling.

I use them, but to avoid your problem I welded them in place. No rattling
after 3 years of use. I think that's the ticket when using them.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	RANDY A GEISEL [SMTP:RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net]
> Sent:	Friday, November 20, 1998 7:21 AM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	Re: HEADS >>  Heat Riser Filling.
> 
> 
> >On the same subject, I see that Edelbrock sells some cast iron plugs >for
> the exhaust crossover for Oldsmobiles (#2733 page 64 of 1998 >catalog).  I
> wondered if anyone has tried these or has any opinions to share.
> 
> I had them in a pair of 7a heads on my '72 350. I took them out after a
> week. As already stated they come oversized, so I took the die grinder and
> fitted them. I was afraid they were too tight, as it took a hammer to
> "seat"
> them (make flush) the last 1/8".  Apparently not, as the one on the right
> side came loose. I took the car to the track and after the second pass a
> rattling started. Kinda like a bad water pump bearing. I ran it one more
> time and by the time I got home it sounded like I had marbles in my
> intake.
> When I removed the intake the plug was so loose that it cut a hole in the
> intake gasket. I had used Mr. G's intake gaskets without the cutout for
> the
> crossover. It had cut the gasket out perfectly and you could see where the
> plug had been hitting the inside of the intake runner. It looks like the
> plug shrunk.
> 
> If you want a pair, Summit sells them for $9.95.  Mine make a great set of
> paper weights on my work bench. The heads for my 455 will get filled the
> correct way.
> 
> Just my experience.....who knows, maybe I did something wrong when fitting
> or installing them.
> 
> Randy

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1613
*********************************

