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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1632


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, November 30 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1632



Re: horn screwing up on '71 cutlass
Re: 67 Vista Cruiser
Re: OAI Air Cleaner
viisit my webpage
Re: viisit my webpage
Visit my webpage!
Re: UNBOUNCE: Posi, necessary for High speed power?
Re: junkyard prices
More BB Heads On A SB
Re: Olds EFI
64 Olds Cutlass (V.I.N. Decoding)
Fw: 64 Olds Cutlass (V.I.N. Decoding)
Re: reason for list info req.
1970 Cutlass
Re: viisit my webpage
Visit my webpage!(new)
Largest size tires on '84 Cutlass Supreme?????
Re: LS6 454 Cutlass
Date:	Sun, 29 Nov 1998 23:27:25 -0500
Re: LS6 454 Cutlass
RE: viisit my webpage/contribute to it.
RE: viisit my webpage/comtribute to it
RE: Visit my webpage!(new)
Complete 72 A/C setup 4sale
Re: Visit my webpage!(new)
Re: LS6 454 Cutlass
Re: Visit my webpage!(new)
Re: Loose Timing Chain
Oldsmobile Cam question...
Fwd: Re: 68-75+ Olds Parts
Re: outrageous web site!!/'73 info wanted
Re: Loose Timing Chain
Olds Magazines
Re: Re: Holley Pro-jection forsale?
Re: Lights for safety was: DRL's
(NON-OLDS) Crank scrapers, pistons, cyl heads, cams, and more!
Re: LS6 454 Cutlass
Re: horn screwing up on '71 cutlass
Re: LS6 454 Cutlass
Re: 1970 Cutlass
Re:VC, Sportwagons
Re: DRL's
Re: Rationalizations. was: DRL's
Re: DRL's
Re: Will a G-body steering wheel fit a '68 Cutlass??
Engine mounts, rearends and much more....
Re: DRL's
Re: 15x8 steel rims
Re: DRL's
Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....
Re: DRLs
info on Rallye 350 qtr stickers
Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 19:21:27 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: horn screwing up on '71 cutlass

> What should I suspect/test/look at first?  the relay, or the horns
> themselves?  (I hope not, I don't feel like pulling the grills out)

        My rule of thumb is to check, if no other highly compelling
evidence suggests otherwise, the easiest/least expensive first.  In this
case, it would be the relay and wiring.  Well, wiring can be a pain, but
you get my point.  You say the relay clicks.  So, you at least know the
relay coil is getting power.  But the relay contacts may be pitted or
arced.  Or, the wire leading to the horn may be corroded.  I had a nagging
parking light problem once that turned out to be nothing more than a
corroded wire.  A little solder and heat shrink tubing and I was back in
business.  In short, I'd check wire continuity and probably just replace
the horn relay before the horns.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 19:38:16 -0500
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: 67 Vista Cruiser

had nothing but good experiences with both of these guys...

Art

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 19:54:23 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: OAI Air Cleaner

Is it
> because they're readily available through dealers or at junkyards? Are they
> the same as those used in other Olds' or GM products?  Can anyone supply a
> "same as" list I can refer to in my search? I'm puzzled, but sure any number
> of you guys can probably straighten me out...  Thanks,

69 H/O air cleaner base, or 70-72 cars equipped with the outside air
induction system.  These are the only "real" air cleaners that are
interchangable and the original style you need.  However, you CAN make
an extra hole for the breather in the side of a regular Olds 4 bbl air
cleaner, but it definitely wouldn't be original and if you're not
careful, can easily be detected.  I'm not sure about the 72 4 speed
equipped NON-OAI air cleaner bases though.  They MAY have the extra hole
you desire.  Haven't seen one in ages, so I'm not 100% positive on that.

Good luck,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 20:20:06 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: viisit my webpage

So, after being all talk for a couple of years, I finally bought a computer,
learned how to use it, figured out the basics of Frontpage, manufactured a
website, and conquered the comfusion of Cute FTP, and the results
(INCOMPLETE!) can be see at:

http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo/Olds/olds.htm

That address looks a bit weird to me, but it works...
Some of y'all are linked to my page somehow.  If there's some etiquitte
about asking permission first, I apologize...

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 20:40:08 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: viisit my webpage

Ray Costanzo wrote:
> 
> So, after being all talk for a couple of years, I finally bought a computer,
> learned how to use it, figured out the basics of Frontpage, manufactured a
> website, and conquered the comfusion of Cute FTP, and the results
> (INCOMPLETE!) can be see at:
> 
> http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo/Olds/olds.htm

Wow. Never seen so many middle fingers on one web page.

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***************************
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 V-8 4 bbl)
1975 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (250 I-6 1 bbl)
1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (350 V-8 2 bbl)
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4 bbl)
*******************************************
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 20:41:25 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: Visit my webpage!

So, after being all talk for a couple of years, I finally bought a computer,
learned how to use it, figured out the basics of Frontpage, manufactured a
website, and conquered the comfusion of Cute FTP, and the results
(INCOMPLETE!) can be see at:

http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo/Olds/olds.htm

That address looks a bit weird to me, but it works...
Some of y'all are linked to my page somehow.  If there's some etiquitte
about asking permission first, I apologize...

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com

if this is a double posting, sorry.  My original message was returned but
I'm not sure where it was returned from!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 20:01:56 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Posi, necessary for High speed power?

Jim,

I would say no, a posi is not necessary unless you have a problem of frying 
your
tires when passing someone at 60 mph, and if so please send me a copy of your
engine combo!!

Greg Beaulieu wrote:

> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From:   "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
> Subject: Posi, necessary for High speed power?
>
> Here is a general question that pertains to my Olds.  I have contemplated
> whether or not I should consider an anti-spin(posi) differential.  After
> learning the joys of posi for off-the-line acceleration in my '63 Chevy, is
> it real necessary for high speed acceleration?  Considering my car has what
> I believe to be a 2.56 rear(and I want to keep it that way for cruising
> speeds!) would a posi even be necessary considering I am after passing power
> and not off-the-line launching power?
>
> Jim Brady
> 1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
> http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
> bradyiii@shore.intercom.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 21:08:40 -0500
From: Brian Kerr <bkerr@golden.net>
Subject: Re: junkyard prices

Not a really tough job, but replacement of suspension bushings into the control
arms is  probably a job for the local shop. Seals, brakes and rust removal is
pretty easy stuff. Do your self a big favor though, get a GM Chassis manual for
your car. Its worth its weight in gold!

Brian Kerr
69 Cutlass conv

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 21:15:17 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: More BB Heads On A SB

Back on the 23rd, Donny wrote:

<<	I left a question out of my post :
	Couldn't a fellow with say a 70-72 350 replace his heads
	 with a set of BB heads as long as they were milled the 0.060" 
	(max per J.M.)?  
	 
	Wouldn't the BB chamber cc's be close to the SB chambers after the
milling? I had a set of "B" heads milled ~0.050" and they finished up at
73cc.>>

I'm not sure about this, but I believe the SB heads are even smaller than
that, don't have my info from DSE right here but I believe Dave told me to
have my heads (SB) milled and then CC them to a 55cc chamber size.

<<How about a 403 head swap(4A to C)?>>

That's what a lot of folks do, it works good on the 403's since the bore is
even larger than a 455.  I think with a set of milled BB heads you might wind
up with a smaller combustion chamber than the late 70's low compression heads,
but I'm not sure.  I want to build an engine for the stock car that will be
used on our "Cheater's Night" at Lakeside, and hope to use a 403 as the basis.
I'll know more about the 403 as I dig into this engine.

Anyone else have more insight into these ideas?

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
ks7racing@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 21:24:05 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds EFI

I've been following this thread and would like to add a penny or two to it.
I'd like to see what could be concocted using one of those old fuel injection
manifolds that Algon or Crager made for the 425's or 455's back in the late
60's.  I know they're not easy to come up with, but if you could snag one,
would this be something to start with?  I'd like to try this as a basis for my
70 C/S 455 project.

Any ideas ladies and gents?  Thanks!

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
ks7racing@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 20:03:34 -0800
From: "Tim Wurtz" <tropical@micron.net>
Subject: 64 Olds Cutlass (V.I.N. Decoding)

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BE1BD3.5836FA40
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello Group,
I have a Olds vin that i need decoded. This car is complete and probably =
will part it out. I need to find out all the info on this car first to =
decide what to do with it. If any one is interested in parts let me =
know. Thanks Tim

- ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BE1BD3.5836FA40
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hello Group,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have a Olds vin that i need =
decoded. This car=20
is complete and probably will part it out. I need to find out all the =
info on=20
this car first to decide what to do with it. If any one is interested in =
parts=20
let me know. Thanks Tim</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BE1BD3.5836FA40--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 20:05:17 -0800
From: "Tim Wurtz" <tropical@micron.net>
Subject: Fw: 64 Olds Cutlass (V.I.N. Decoding)

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BE1BD3.955E7EC0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Sorry I forgot to include the V.I.N. # 824MO8484
- -----Original Message-----
From: Tim Wurtz <tropical@micron.net>
To: Oldsmobile Group <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, November 29, 1998 8:03 PM
Subject: 64 Olds Cutlass (V.I.N. Decoding)


Hello Group,
I have a Olds vin that i need decoded. This car is complete and probably =
will part it out. I need to find out all the info on this car first to =
decide what to do with it. If any one is interested in parts let me =
know. Thanks Tim

- ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BE1BD3.955E7EC0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Sorry I forgot to include the V.I.N. =
#=20
824MO8484</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
</B>Tim Wurtz &lt;<A=20
href=3D"mailto:tropical@micron.net">tropical@micron.net</A>&gt;<BR><B>To:=
=20
</B>Oldsmobile Group &lt;<A=20
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>&g=
t;<BR><B>Date:=20
</B>Sunday, November 29, 1998 8:03 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>64 Olds Cutlass =
(V.I.N.=20
Decoding)<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hello Group,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have a Olds vin that i need =
decoded. This car=20
is complete and probably will part it out. I need to find out all the =
info on=20
this car first to decide what to do with it. If any one is interested in =
parts=20
let me know. Thanks Tim</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BE1BD3.955E7EC0--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 22:06:37 EST
From: Mr57olds@aol.com
Subject: Re: reason for list info req.

In a message dated 98-11-29 19:14:27 EST, you write:

<< Another visual
 observation is that when I shut off the motor I do see smoke or vapor
 exhausting from the oil fill/breather cap.  What is this all about? normal?
>>
You should not have much  after engine is shut off, just a small amount that
of fumes that are still present and not pushed out the road draft tube.   With
the fill cap off and the engine running do you see vapor exiting fill tube???
If you do you have blow-by.  You mention new rings.   Was block bored and new
pistons installed???  If not blow -by could be going between rings and
pistons.   A valve problem will not result in crank case pressure.   
Bruce
Mr57olds

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 22:23:25 -0500
From: "James Meeks" <jimmeeks@sprintmail.com>
Subject: 1970 Cutlass

I have a 70 Cutlass with a 350 4 barrel.  There is a heat pipe that goes
from the air cleaner "snorkel" to the right exhaust manifold.  Problem is, I
don't have one and can't find one.  I thought I had one from Specialty Olds
in Winter Haven but when Ken sent it to me it was about two inches too
short!  He said he matched it up to a 1972 Cutlass 350 engine but it doesn't
fit what I got.

Anyone know where I need to go to find one?  I have been looking for a long
time and still don't have a clue where to look.  BTW, I ordered the
woodgrain parts for the dash and the console from H&H in Ohio and they are
absolutely perfect.  They went on with ease and were correct the first time!
You would swear they came on the car from the factory.  Highly recommend
them and thanks to who ever presented the info to the list.

JIM

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 20:52:42 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: viisit my webpage

Nice car ray.  How about a full-size picture of you changing a water-pump.
HA HA.  When my Delta is done, I will post a page as well, for you all to
see.  Igor.


- -----Original Message-----
From: Ray Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
To: Olds G Body List <olds_gbody@listbot.com>; G-Body Organization Mailing
List <austin@lsol.net>; Classic Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: November 29, 1998 6:21 PM
Subject: viisit my webpage


>So, after being all talk for a couple of years, I finally bought a
computer,
>learned how to use it, figured out the basics of Frontpage, manufactured a
>website, and conquered the comfusion of Cute FTP, and the results
>(INCOMPLETE!) can be see at:
>
>http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo/Olds/olds.htm
>
>That address looks a bit weird to me, but it works...
>Some of y'all are linked to my page somehow.  If there's some etiquitte
>about asking permission first, I apologize...
>
>Ray Costanzo
>87 409 Cutlass
>Bucks County, PA
>costanzo@netcarrier.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 22:58:09 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Visit my webpage!(new)

ok  my turn.

look at my web pages

http://members.aol.com/HURSTOLDZ/index.html

http://members.aol.com/HURSTOLDZ/4index.html

http://members.aol.com/HURSTOLDZ/index4.html

http://members.aol.com/HURSTOLDZ/3index.html

Thank you

Vinny
62 Starfire
68 Hurst/Olds

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 23:05:35 -0500
From: Shawn <shawno22@erols.com>
Subject: Largest size tires on '84 Cutlass Supreme?????

Question for everyone...What is the largest size tire that I can put on a
1984 Cutlass Supreme??  It now has standard Whitewall 75R14 P205.  I would
like to put on something larger to get that "full" look...Any help would be
greatly appreciated...

Shawn


Shawn
1984 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 23:24:48 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: LS6 454 Cutlass

In a message dated 11/29/98 3:13:35 PM Eastern Standard Time,
tjwilli@megavision.com writes:

<< I would be careful on painting this number on the side of  your
 Oldsmobile.
 The L-78 was also the code for the 375hp 396 chevy motor as opposed to
 there 325hp or 350hp 396 motors in the late 60's and early 70's.
  >>
hows about putting "7.2L" or whatever on the fenders?  i always thought that
would look kinda cool....  wait....  is a 455 7.2 litres?  geez, i forgot....
anyways, you get the drift.  i was thinking of putting some "RAM-ROD 350"
decals on my fenders, but i cant seem to find any.  i did find the one that
goes on the air cleaner, however.  anyways, enough rambling. 
jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 23:27:25 -0500
From: "R. Fagg" <kgrant442@home.com>
Subject: Date:	Sun, 29 Nov 1998 23:27:25 -0500

subscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 23:00:22 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: LS6 454 Cutlass

A 455 is 7.6 Liters.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: LS6 454 Cutlass
> Date: Sunday, November 29, 1998 10:24 PM
> 
> In a message dated 11/29/98 3:13:35 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> tjwilli@megavision.com writes:
> 
> << I would be careful on painting this number on the side of  your
>  Oldsmobile.
>  The L-78 was also the code for the 375hp 396 chevy motor as opposed to
>  there 325hp or 350hp 396 motors in the late 60's and early 70's.
>   >>
> hows about putting "7.2L" or whatever on the fenders?  i always thought
that
> would look kinda cool....  wait....  is a 455 7.2 litres?  geez, i
forgot....
> anyways, you get the drift.  i was thinking of putting some "RAM-ROD 350"
> decals on my fenders, but i cant seem to find any.  i did find the one
that
> goes on the air cleaner, however.  anyways, enough rambling. 
> jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 00:29:01 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: viisit my webpage/contribute to it.

Ha Igor!
One of the small thumbnails that doesn't do anything yet is me and a buddy
changing the pump in Wakeeny, KS.  Stay tuned!

I have PLENTY of room left and if anyone wants his car to be on the web but
doesn't have a page, just send me a photo and I'll post it if you want.  No
imports.  (shouldn't even have to say it...)



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Igor T. '81 DRB 455
Sent: Sunday, November 29, 1998 10:53 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: viisit my webpage


Nice car ray.  How about a full-size picture of you changing a water-pump.
HA HA.  When my Delta is done, I will post a page as well, for you all to
see.  Igor.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 00:29:31 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: viisit my webpage/comtribute to it

that was from 

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com
 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 00:31:18 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Visit my webpage!(new)

hey man, nice car!

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com
 

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, November 29, 1998 10:58 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Visit my webpage!(new)


ok  my turn.

look at my web pages

http://members.aol.com/HURSTOLDZ/index.html

http://members.aol.com/HURSTOLDZ/4index.html

http://members.aol.com/HURSTOLDZ/index4.html

http://members.aol.com/HURSTOLDZ/3index.html

Thank you

Vinny
62 Starfire
68 Hurst/Olds

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 23:37:43 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Complete 72 A/C setup 4sale

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BE1BF1.42F9FBA0
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I have a complete working A/C setup that is out fo a 72 442. It consists of
the following:
				A/C Condenser
				Evaporator Core
				Compressor
				POA Suction Throttling Valve
				Vacuum Tank
				Heater Control Valve
				Expansion 
Valve							

If bought new tha parts would total over $800.00. I am asking $340.00 for
all the above.

E-Mail Private

Pettrix@prodigy.net

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Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head></head><BODY bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF"><p><font size=3D2 =
color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Arial">I have a complete working A/C setup =
that is out fo a 72 442. It consists of the =
following:<i><br>&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;A/C =
Condenser<br>&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;Evaporator =
Core<br>&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;Compressor<br>&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;POA=
 Suction Throttling Valve<br>&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;Vacuum =
Tank<br>&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;Heater Control =
Valve<br>&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;Expansion =
Valve&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;<br></i><br>If bought new =
tha parts would total over $800.00. I am asking $340.00 for all the =
above.<br><br>E-Mail Private<br><br><font =
color=3D"#0000FF"><u>Pettrix@prodigy.net</u><font =
color=3D"#000000"><br><br></p>
</font></font></font></body></html>
- ------=_NextPart_000_01BE1BF1.42F9FBA0--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 00:56:38 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: Visit my webpage!(new)

Thank you, thank you very much

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 23:11:27 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: LS6 454 Cutlass

>A 455 is 7.6 Liters.


It is a 461.5 (or so) with overbore, so I was thinking about 462.  But 455
sounds better, and that is the motor it is.  I think I will leave it, and
later put that stick-on vinyl.  I don't need the stress right now.  I have
three tests, two papers, doors to remove, trunk, hood, scuff it all so that
the bodyman can paint the door jams, trunk jams.  ALL this has to be done
this week.  Student life can be stressful (especially if one is hot-rooding
an OLDS).

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 29 Nov 1998 23:17:07 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Visit my webpage!(new)

>hey man, nice car!


Vary nice.  I can't wait to have my car posted (probably after Christmas).

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 01:25:40 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Loose Timing Chain

Previously:

<< Why wouldn't we just readjust the ignition timing and see if the problem is
fixed? Certainly is easier than removing all that clutter from the front of
the car to get at the timing chain. A ten-minute job might do the trick or
prove that the longer job is necessary. -Cheers/Carron >>

<< These motors during the late 70's and early 80's had a cam gear that was
coated in nylon over the teeth.  Over time this nylon gets hard and starts
to chip away.  This causes the chain to get loose and have seen one case
where as the motor turned over it would catch the cam gear, turn it a
little, -Mike B >>

You'll forgive if answers are out of order?

Yup, the cam gear has an aluminium center with an outer nylon surface which
has all of the gear teeth in it. The original gear from 1965 looks like that.
The one from SOM (pulled at 90K) had some wear and lots of tiny cracks, but no
chips. (Yup, still got it!)

And as a matter of fact the chain itself does stretch. It is not only the
nylon wearing.


What about setting timing instead of playing with chain?

Well, that may be a solution, but you may have a tough time finding a spot
that will not ping.
At approx 90K SOM's chain had  ~1/2" or more of play in the chain.
At 160K, well..... can't be pretty.
(Providing original chain!)

What happens when play in chain?

(Trying to sound convincing here)
First, Karl assures that when new chain is in, there is ~zero~ play in the
chain!
In fact, a second set of hands could be handy for mounting the chain.
Karl only managed by using a screwdriver to pry against ... well .. something.

The Timing Chain keeps the bumpstick in sync with the crankshaft.
Therefore, the timing chain keeps the valve opening/closing in sync with
piston position, the critical piston position being #1 at TDC.

Timing chain loose - valves open/close late!
You can still adjust timing to correct.
But the distributor is driven by the camshaft!
So while play in the timing chain will delay timing until timing is reset, you
still have delayed valve opeing/closing!!

(geez, sounds like I actually know this stuff, don't it?)

So. Yes, a timing adjustment could cure the ping.
Maybe.

But realize there are other factors (actual valve timing) that are
contributing to that ping, that are not being addressed by setting the timing.

The timing chain swap is a good opportunity for a amateur do-it-yourself-er
like Karl. The parts &gaskets can be had in a fel-pro kit. The more of the
front clip that tou can remove for access, the better. Know what the torque
specs are before you go in. Keep each accessory separate together with its
bolts. Consider whether you want to change the water pump or vibrational
damper as they are coming off anyway. Be advised that you may need to drop (or
at least loosen) the oil pan to replace the front cover (though Karl managed
it w/o playing with oil pan - and lucky it don't leak!).

And finally, do not break your vibrational damper like Karl did - got his
order in for the reman'd one at last minute on Saturday, not good.

Good luck.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 01:34:53 -0500 (EST)
From: zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu
Subject: Oldsmobile Cam question...

Hello all... 

Quick question here... hopefully somebody online tonight will know... what
were the specs for the '83 H/O cam?  Part #22519934.  Is the part still
available?

Thanks,


    |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
   /|\       Clayton Pierce,
  / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
 |  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
 |  |  |     
 |  |  |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
 | / \ |     
 |/   \|     1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
  \   /         (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
   \ /          http://www.442.com/pierce.html
    |        1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass Brougham
		(parts car) (307, 4bbl, TH350, 2.14:1, 90k miles)
	     1980 Rover 3500 SD1
	        (215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
     	     1979 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
		(260 V8, 2bbl, TH350)
		http://www.geocities.com/Athens/4468/oldsmobile/olds.html
	     1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
		(389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 01:27:49 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Fwd: Re: 68-75+ Olds Parts

>
>>
>>>
>>>                                           C&M Classic Parts
>>>                        1132 Chatmoss Drive, Virginia Beach, VA 23464
>>>                                 (757)474-0869, FAX (757)474-0694
>>>                                         
>>> <<mailto:chermac@exis.net>chermac@exis.net>
>>>                                                OCA# 24275
>>>
>>> Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 pm - 10:00 pm,  Sat 9:00 am - 3:00 pm,  Sunday Closed
>>> *We accept all major Credit Cards. VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and Discover.*
>>>
>>>
>>> *** The 69-73 "W" and "Z" 455 Dual Exhaust Manifolds will be on sale
>>> starting December 15. Price is $319.00 plus shipping. They are perfect and
>>> are better than the originals due to newer metallurgy
>>>                                          OLDS Restoration Parts
>>>  
>>> New arrival "Parts"
>>> 71-75+ Turn Signal Lever (N.O.S.)  $19.00
>>> 68 Cutlass Grille (mint)  $135.00
>>> 71-72 Sport Mirrors $100.00 pr
>>> 69 Cutlass/442 Hartop Quarters (LH/RH no rust)  $300.00 ea or $600.00 pr
>>> 69 Cutlass/442 Front Fenders (LH/RH no rust)  $275.00 ea or $500.00 pr
>>> 69 Cutlass Fornt Grilles (nice, used)  $125.00 pr
>>> 69 Cutlass/442 Headlight Bezels (mint)  $65.00 pr
>>> 69 Cutlass/442 Headlight Housings (mint)  $70.00 pr
>>> 69 Cutlass/442 Dash Pad (mint, gold) $100.00
>>> 69 Cutlass/442 Hardtop Trunk Lid (mint)  $90.00
>>> 69 Cutlass/442 Column Shift Tilt $85.00
>>> 69 Cutlass Supreme Long Arm Rest Bases $30.00 pr
>>> 69 Cutlass/442 Dash Woodgrain (mint, complete)  $60.00 set
>>> 69 Cutlass/442 Hartop Doors (mint)  $200.00 pr
>>> 69 Cutlass Supreme Side Chrome (mint set) $100.00
>>> 69 350 4 bbl Engine (83,--- miles)  $250.00 may part engine
>>> 69 Speedminder Speedometer (complete)  $65.00
>>> 68-72 Floor Pans (rust free)  $inquire for sections
>>> 68-69 Cutlass/442 Clock  $45.00
>>> 70 W-30 Intake (Early w/ Oldsmobile W-455) date code 11/13/69  $575.00
>>> 64-72 Boxed Lower Control Arms  (originals) $150.00 pr
>>> 68 LH Post Coupe Door (very nice)  $65.00
>>> 69 442/Cutlass Hardtop Doors (mint)  $150.00 pr
>>> TH350 W/shift kit  $125.00
>>> 71-72 Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $45.00
>>> 70-72 Heater Control Panel (nice)  $35.00
>>> 68-75+ Auto Trans Flex Plates  $35.00
>>> 68 Hood Hinges  $50.00 pr
>>> 70 OAI Hood (nice, 2 small stress cracks)  $750.00 
>>> 70-72 SSI Wheels (4) $200.00 set
>>> 70-73 SSII/III Wheels (5)  $250.00 set
>>> 70-73 SSII Wheels (4, off 72 H/O with orig paint.) $200.00 set
>>> 70-75 Sport Steering Wheel (mint wheel lots of grain, black, with hub and
>>> center)  $225.00
>>> 83-84 Hurst Olds Lightning Rod shifter assm (no cable, nice)  $280.00
>>> 307-403 Edelbrock Performer Intake (nice)  $100.00
>>> 69-72 Seat Backs & Lower Sides (nice orig, black or tan)  $80.00 set
>>>  
>>> New Repro Parts:
>>> 70-72 Dash Chrome Bead (new)  $58.00 ea
>>> 67-70 Turn Signal Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea
>>> 67-70 Tilt Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea 
>>> 67-75 TH400 Shifter Cable Bracket (Repro)  $28.00
>>> 68-72 License Plate Bracket (Repro)  $26.50
>>> 68-70 W-31 Cam Kits (w/lifters & lube)  $132.00
>>> 68-72 1/4 Glass Chrome Moldings (Repro)  $92.00 pr
>>> 69-72 Rear Spoiler (3 piece repro)  $255.00
>>> 70-72 Hood Pin Kits (NEW, original supplier, complete setup) $115.00
>>> 71or72 442 Grille Numeral Sets (repro, either year)  $34.00 set
>>> 71-72 442 Hood Emblem (repro, Non OAI) $20.00
>>>  
>>> New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts 1964-1972 Olds/Cutlass/442
>>> 68 (N.O.S.) Cutlass/442 Turn Signal Lens (front, 2 prs)  $25.00 pr
>>> 72 (N.O.S.) Cutlass Supreme, H/O LH grille $50.00
>>> 68-72 W-30 Stick Cam .475 lift/ 328 dur. (N.O.S. in box)  $275.00
>>> 68-72+ TH Torque Converter Cover (Plastic, N.O.S.)  $36.00 ea
>>> 66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
>>> 68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
>>> 68-7? Under Hood Light kits (N.O.S.)  $40.00 ea
>>> 69-72 442 Trunk Numeral Sets (N.O.S.) $50.00 set
>>> 69-70 442 Hood Numeral Sets  (N.O.S.) $50.00 set
>>> 69-72 442 Fender Numeral Sets (N.O.S.) $38.00 set
>>> 70-72 LH Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)  $200.00
>>> 70-72 Hurst Dual Gate Shifter Cable (N.O.S.)  $55.00
>>> 70-72 OAI Air Cleaner Springs (N.O.S)  $5.00 ea
>>> 71-72 Front Grille Plastics (N.O.S)  $35.00 ea                        
>>> 73-75 (N.O.S.) Cutlass "S", 442,  H/O RH Qtr Panel  $350.00
>>> 75-77 (N.O.S.) Cutlass Supreme Header Panel  $150.00
>>> 73-77 Cutlass/442/Hurst Wiper Switch (N.O.S.)  $22.00
>>>  
>>> USED PARTS:
>>> 68 Cutlass/442
>>> 68 8 Track Player (needs work, nice unit, housing broken)  $45.00
>>> 68 Front Bumper (nice w 2 small dings)  $125.00
>>> 68 442 Rear Bumper (very nice) $250.00
>>> 68 442 Air Cleaner Heat tube assm (2 pieces)  $30.00
>>> 68-69 442 Glove Box Door (black)  $18.00
>>> 68-69 442/W-30 400 Intake Manifold  $50.00
>>> 68 Cutlass/442 Backup Lens (nice)  $22.00 pr
>>> 68 Trunk Vinyl Top Molding & Plate  $25.00
>>> 68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
>>> 68 Cutlass Rear Bumper (core)  $75.00
>>> 68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $35.00              
>>> Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set                               
>>> 68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00                     
>>> 68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $25.00
>>> ea                                            
>>> 68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea                                
>>> 68-72 B-Pillar Molding Sets (black, mint) $27.50 pr 
>>>
>>> 69 Cutlass/442
>>> 69 Cutlass, H/O, 442 Dash Woodgrain (mint orig, minus ash tray)  $30.00 
>>> 69 Cutlass/442 Conv trunk lid (mint)  $150.00
>>> 68-69 442 Glove Box Door (black)  $18.00
>>> 69 Front Bumper (no pits, bent from tow truck)  $85.00
>>> 69 Hood Tongue $20.00
>>> 68-69 442/W-30 400 Intake Manifold  $50.00
>>> 69 Turn Signal Lens (nice)  $25.00 pr
>>> 69 Front Grille Center Filler (between grilles)  $8.00
>>> 69 Full Hubcaps (nice)  $35.00 set
>>> 68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
>>> 69 Radiator Core Support 3 Row (mint, no rust holes)  $150.00
>>> 69-72 Hood Hinges  $40.00 pr
>>> 69-70 "S" Hood Louver Chrome  $25.00 pr
>>> 69-70 "S" Hood Louver Moldiings  $25.00 pr
>>> 68-72 Windshield Molding Sets  $45.00 set                                 
>>> 69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
>>> 69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $55.00 ea
>>> 69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $25.00 ea
>>>
>>> 70 Cutlass/442
>>> 70-72 Floor Console (regular auto, black, complete)  $100.00
>>> 70 442/SX Cutout Rear Bumper (nice rechrome, not perfect)  $275.00
>>> 70 Hood Tongue $40.00
>>> 70 Front Bumper (core)  $85.00
>>> 70 Fender Eybrows (nice, no pits)  $45.00 pr
>>> 70 RH Rally 350 grille (repaired, nice)  $75.00
>>> 70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
>>> 70 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr
>>> 70 Cutlass Supreme Hood (excellent)  $100.00
>>> 70-71 Halo Vinyl Top Molding sets no "L " moldings (mint) $55.00 set
>>> 70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea             
>>> 70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00                                    
>>> 69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00                                
>>> 70 "S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr         
>>> 70 Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $70.00                                  
>>> 70-72 Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
>>> 70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens (restored)  $17.00 ea
>>> 70 Cutlass Supreme Tail Light Lens (restored) $23.00 ea
>>>
>>> 71 Cutlass/442
>>> 70-71 Cutlass Supreme Side Marker Lights (mint)  $60.00 set
>>> 71 Cutlass "S" Grilles (nice used)  $100.00 pr
>>> 71 LH Cutlass Supreme Grille (nice)  $85.00
>>> 70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $30.00 pr
>>> 71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
>>> 71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set
>>> 70-72 C/S LH/RH Side Glass  $25.00 ea 
>>> 71 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr
>>>
>>> 72 Cutlass/442
>>> 70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $30.00 pr
>>> 70-72 Floor Console (regular auto, black, complete)  $100.00
>>> 71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
>>> 72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00                                  
>>> 72 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr            
>>> 72 Tail Light Lens  $13.00 ea used, $26.00 ea (N.O.S.)
>>>
>>> 73 and Newer and Big Car Parts:
>>> Late 73-74 Olds HEI distributors (non cumputer, w/cap and coil)  $45.00 ea
>>> 73-75 442 Console and Shifter (Maroon)  $90.00
>>> 73-77 Omega Floor Shift Tilt  $65.00
>>> 75 Omega Front Fenders (very nice pair)  $180.00 pr
>>> 75 Omega Bucket Seats (nice, maroon cloth)  $85.00 pr
>>> 72 Delta 88 Qtr End caps  $25.00 pr
>>> 72 Delta 88/ Ninety Eight Owners Manual (nice) $5.00
>>>  
>>> New reproduction parts:
>>> Convertible Top Boots (Correct Grains for each different year)  $89.00ea
>>> 64  Black, Red, Lt. Blue, Fawn, Saddle, Turqoise, White
>>> 65  Same as 64  
>>> 66-67 Black, Red, Light Blue, Med. Blue, Bronze, Turqoise, White, Gold
>>> 68-72 Black, Red, Parchment, Lt. Blue, Teal Blue, Green Gold, Gold, Pearl,
>>> Dk Blue, Dk. Green, Lt. Green, Lt. Saddle, Dk Saddle, Olive Green, Royal
>>> Blue, White, Sandalwood, 
>>>
>>> Molded Carpet Sets  $95.00 
>>> 64-67 - (Black, Red, Med. Blue, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Maroon)
>>> 68-72 - (Black, Red, Maroon, Turqoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Med. Blue, Dk.
>>> Green,
>>> Green Gold, Lt. Green, Teal Blue, Saddle, Sandalwood)
>>> 73-77 - (Same as 68-72 except Green Gold)
>>>
>>> Door Panels  64-72  $265.00 for a set of all 4
>>>
>>> Seat Covers  64-72  $335.00 front and rear sets any year or color.
>>>
>>> Vinyl Dash Overlays (makes your wood dash areas look like carbon fiber)
>>> $50.00 set 
>>>
>>> Lifetime Guarantee on all correct bead window felts  $92.00 set (inner &
>>> outer)
>>> 66-67 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (correct bead type) 
>>> 68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (not Supreme Coupes, correct bead) 
>>> 68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv (Outers only, correct bead)  $50.00
>>>
>>> Replacement Window Felts (Flat type)  $60.00 set (inner & outer)
>>> 64-72 Cutlass/442 (state year and model)
>>>
>>> Glove Box Liners
>>> 64-67 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
>>> 68-69 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
>>> 70-72 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
>>>
>>> Qrt Seals
>>> 70-72 Cutlass Supreme & Conv Qtr End seals  $13.00 pr
>>>
>>> Hood Insulation
>>> 64-65 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
>>> 66 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
>>> 67 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
>>> 68-70 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner (wclips)  $18.00
>>> 70-72 Cutlass Supreme Hood Liner (w/clips)  $18.00
>>> 73-77 Cutlass $28.00
>>>
>>> Liner Clips
>>> Round Clips  $1.00 ea
>>> Square Clips  $1.00 ea
>>>
>>> A-Arm Shields
>>> 68-72 Upper A-Arm dust shields  $14.99 pr
>>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 01:40:31 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: outrageous web site!!/'73 info wanted

In a message dated 98-11-29 16:31:53 EST, you write:

<< know if you know how many 73 cutlass S 455/4spd cars were made >>

Another failing of the "Std Cat of Olds",

1973 Cutlass "S" production is listed as 77,558.

Fairly sure Harry knows that already.

455 was std only on Toro, 98, and Custom cruiser.
455 was available as L-74 or L-75 options
4-speed also optional.

Must have been a special order because the 4 4 2 option was only an
appearance/handling package.

All the info from here.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 00:02:23 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Loose Timing Chain

 Be advised that you may need to drop (or
>at least loosen) the oil pan to replace the front cover (though Karl
managed
>it w/o playing with oil pan - and lucky it don't leak!).


I have installed a new DBL. roller chain & gears in my 455 when I rebuilt
it, so at least I have some experience.  I also set the timing on that 305
already, worked great for two weeks, and then back to problem one.  I am
sure it is the chain stretch.  Although this is a Chevy motor we will do it
to (in a Cutlass, being used until a 403 is built), but I know what you mean
about olds timing cover/oil pan problem.  The stupid book said to install
and tighten the pan first, then do the timing cover.  I ended up having to
loosen the pan (used gasket glue, so it was not good) to install the cover
better.  No big deal since the motor was on the stand.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 02:14:24 -0500
From: "Steve C" <cutlass@citlink.net>
Subject: Olds Magazines

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BE1C07.2634DCE0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Does anybody know of any Oldsmobile related magazines that are =
published, especially ones that are dedicated to the 442. =20

  Thanks
Steve C =20

- ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BE1C07.2634DCE0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Does anybody know of any =
Oldsmobile=20
related magazines that are published, especially ones that are dedicated =
to the=20
442.&nbsp; </FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT></STRONG>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp; =
Thanks</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Steve C&nbsp;=20
</FONT></STRONG></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BE1C07.2634DCE0--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 08:38:14 EST
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: Re: Holley Pro-jection forsale?

In a message dated 11/25/98, 11:42:04 AM, oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca writes:
<<   Sounds like you have very similar set-up. Cam is exactly the same.
What part of the country you in ?>>
NY, what gears do you have im running 355:1,have you ran at the track?do you
have NOS


------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 08:51:30 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Lights for safety was: DRL's

In a message dated 11/28/98 7:34:44 AM EST, KarlAune@aol.com writes:

<< How visible ~are~ your parking brakes in daylight?
  >>
I doubt if anyone can see my "parking brakes" day or night. (Only kidding, I
know it's a typo) But I always used to drive with my parking lights on during
the day for safety but when I went to the Atlantic City Car Show last year, I
forgot to turn them off. Of course the battery died and I had to get a jump
from security. With this  DRL setup, I don't have to worry about that anymore.
Somebody mentioned that you're not allowed in some states to drive above a
certain speed with parking lights on. That sounds haerd to believe, but in any
event, I can't believe a cop would hassle me on that account,

Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv. (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 08:52:38 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: (NON-OLDS) Crank scrapers, pistons, cyl heads, cams, and more!

Lions and tigers and bears!

Oh my!

Karl for got to mention mufflers!

Karl has posted before, and cannot really say enough about this.

If you want to know about the technical stuff behind High Performance
modifications, go to www.goracing.com and visit the Performance Professor!

These are written by the same Jim McFarlane who gave an opinion about a 455 in
a 1939 Stearman!

Yes, it is about the technical stuff behind High Perormance but it is written
for all gearheads! 

Yes Karl is probably beating a dead (beanie baby) horse, but He believes it is
worth the bandwidth to say so!!

There is a new lecture each month, and enough lectures exist already to keep
the average gearhead at the library for weeks!

Yah.
Karl knows.
You'd rather discuss the correct color for the brake drums on a 1968 F-85
Cutlass 4 4 2.

So, back to the normal Oldsmobile traffic

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 09:09:01 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: LS6 454 Cutlass

The L78 code is a Chevy 396/375 horse motor made from '65 to '69. In '70
the 396 was upped to 402 inches but retained the L78 code. '70 was also the
last year for it. Not sure what your 455 code would be.

Ed 
The Omega Man

'74 Omega 455/4spd
'74 Omega 350/th350






At 02:30 AM 11/29/98 -0700, you wrote:
>Well, I seemed to have found an answer to my question.  The 455 option was
>L78 code (still not sure).  DOES ANYONE KNOW.  I don't want to paint that on
>my fender and then it turns out to be a 350 or some Chevy.  Thanks.
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 06:27:57 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: horn screwing up on '71 cutlass

> My rule of thumb is to check, if no other highly compelling
> evidence suggests otherwise, the easiest/least expensive first.
> In this case, it would be the relay and wiring.

Generally speaking I agree with this, but in this particular case
I'd vote for the horn as being the problem. Run a jumper wire to
the horn terminal direct from the battery and the horn will probably
sound just as bad; this is usually how they fail, by sounding bad
and getting worse. Try unbolting it and cleaning up the terminal
and the mounting backet (which is your ground) just in case, but I
think when you've got it removed you'll find it sounds like it's
full of grit, dirt and debris, a lot of which you can probably
shake out of it and see for yourself.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 09:30:58 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: LS6 454 Cutlass

In a message dated 11/30/98
 8:<BR20:<BR44 AM Central Standard Ti, ggilpin@wrallp.com writes:>


I'm not sure how Gene Gilpin gets transformed into "Ed, The Omega Man", but
here goes anyway.

Ed, someone suggested that you may be able to tell me how to determine whether
a particular Nova front sub (in a car I'm interested in) contains the proper
holes to mount an Olds engine.

More info: The Nova front end, year unknown, is set up for a 350 Chevy
(yecccch) and a TH, model unknown. If I buy this car, I'd want to put in a
proper Olds engine/transmission. I'm rather open on the engine choice,
starting at 350 CID minimum, and as always, bigger = better :-)

Last Omega-type question: car currently has a 61 Imapla rear end, which is too
wide. If the Nova front sub is the right track dimension, then a Nova rear end
from the same series should match the rear track OK (well, I know there might
be a track difference front and rear, but on to the question). Can you tell me
if there are any year-to-year or type-to-type differences in Omega rear ends
that make certain ones more desirable? If so, Do these premium jobs have ready
identification features? If so, what are they?

TIA and cheers/Don Carron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 10:32:30 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Re: 1970 Cutlass

>but it doesn't
>fit what I got.
>

Man, is that the phrase we old car guys live by or what??

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 11:08:09 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re:VC, Sportwagons

will this work on a '66 Vista or just 68-72?
2 1/2" front drums seem to be ALOT cheaper than
the prices I've found for VC rear drums.
_________

I suspect so, but I've never done it, so I have no factual basis.  Try
pulling off your front drums and comparing them to the rears.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 11:25:56 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: DRL's

Something you might want to check on is that in some states it is actually
illegal to drive around over a certain speed with your parking lights on.
_________

I don't know if this is true anymore.  On GMs with hidden headlights (like
the Vette and Firebird), the DRLs _do_ use the parking lights instead of
having the headlights pop up.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 11:32:30 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Rationalizations. was: DRL's

Well, that is where we differ.
Karl would rather stay with what he knows and lollygag over the work :-)}
than aquire a ~new~ vehicle with an engine that is quite radical compared
to
what he has knowledge about now!
__________

The problem, Karl, is that time is a finite resource.  I can spend my time
fixing the truck, or I can buy a new truck and spend my time fixing the
Oldsmobiles...

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 11:36:28 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: DRL's

Dang,
I missed the first post in this thread. What are DRLs?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 11:36:58 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Will a G-body steering wheel fit a '68 Cutlass??

Saw a nice leather wrapped one on a '78ish Cutlass in a yard today. Just
wondering if it would fit on my '68.
_________

Yes, but...

GM steering columns got larger in diameter starting in 1969 due to the
federally-mandated column lock.  As a result, all 69-up GM wheels are
larger in diameter at the hub than 68-down.  The wheel _should_ fit the
splines, but the hub will be larger than the column jacket.  I did this
with a four-spoke Olds wheel on a 68 column.  Bolted on fine, but as I
said, the hub was larger.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 11:50:26 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....

Don
First question. Ed is my middle name. I added the Omega Man thing 'cause I
got two of 'em and I like the things for some reason. Coincidently, I've
also owned a '74 Nova SS that I completely redid (then sold), still didn't
like that car as much as my Olds. The one Omega I own was my very first
car, so it also holds alittle sentimental value. Enough of my history, now
I'll try and answer your questions.

A few questions: What is the car in question here and what year is it?
Because a '61 Impala rear is way to wide for a compact X-body and they are
coil sprung whereas x-bodys have leaf springs.

Things that interchange: 
'68 -'74 Nova (x-body), '73 -'74 Omega/Apollo (x-body), '71-'74 Ventura
(x-body), '67 -'69 Camaro/Firebird (f-body) all use the same subframe and
rearend and body mounting locations and steering box location (left of
engine). The frames are predrilled to accept all kinds of motor mounts. I'm
not sure if the engine mounts for the Omega are the same as 442 or big car.
I know the Chevy is standard across all platforms depending on year. My one
'74 Omega is factory equipped with Chevy mounts because it came with the
torque monster 250 straight six. My other one is factory 350 rocket with
the Olds mounts.
 
(A question for the list: Are the Olds engine mounts standard across all
platforms??)

Crossmember sould be ok 'cause tranny mounts are pretty standard across the
whole GM lineup depending on trans type and year. The X-body and F-body
frames listed above are predrilled for all crossmember locations because
the Th400 is longer and moves the c-member back alittle further. Th350 and
all 4spd's mount in the same place. 

The rearend differences are pretty easy for Omega. '73-'74 are
interchangeable and the only one used was an 8.5" 10 bolt. '75-'79 are the
same but will not interchange with the '73-4. They have a wider track ('75
up) and the spring mounts are further apart. Same with the front sub-frame
('75 and up x-body and '70 up F-body). It was redesigned with a wider track
and steering setup (box sit's ahead of engine). The rear I'm using in my
big block Omega is a Chevy 12 bolt 4:10 posi out of a '69 SS396 Nova. My
other Omega has the original Olds 10 bolt that I will keep in that car. 

Rear end differences: Buick/Olds/Pontiac all shared the same 10 bolt rear
that differed from the Chevy 10 bolt. They are preferred due to a beefier
housing design. Both have 10 bolts that hold the ring gear to the center
section and both can be identified by 10 bolts holding the cover on. If you
want a bullet proof rear, look for a 12 bolt Chevy. It's the toughest car
rear going (((the 9" f-word can stay under the rusty Toreenos and the,
what's their other performance car?? Oh'Yea, the LTD))). The only ones that
are bolt in ready were originally installed in '67-'69 Camaros and '68-'70
Novas. They are still relatively plentiful ranging in price from $150 to
$1200 depending on condition. Less if you get real lucky. I wouldn't pay
more that $700 for a good one ready to go. The guys that do the 'by the
numbers and date codes' restorations ususally pay the bigger price for
their rear. The 12 bolt Chevy has 12 bolts holding the ring gear on and is
identified by 12 bolts holding the cover on. A quick way to identify a 10
from a 12 (if its under a car). The 10 bolt has one bolt head centered on
the bottom of the cover and a 12 will have two bolt heads side by side at
the bottom of the cover.
Hope this helps.

Ed
The Omega Man

'74 Omega 455
'74 Omega 350

- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------------


At 09:30 AM 11/30/98 EST, you wrote:
>In a message dated 11/30/98
> 8:<BR20:<BR44 AM Central Standard Ti, ggilpin@wrallp.com writes:>
>
>
>I'm not sure how Gene Gilpin gets transformed into "Ed, The Omega Man", but
>here goes anyway.
>
>Ed, someone suggested that you may be able to tell me how to determine
whether
>a particular Nova front sub (in a car I'm interested in) contains the proper
>holes to mount an Olds engine.
>
>More info: The Nova front end, year unknown, is set up for a 350 Chevy
>(yecccch) and a TH, model unknown. If I buy this car, I'd want to put in a
>proper Olds engine/transmission. I'm rather open on the engine choice,
>starting at 350 CID minimum, and as always, bigger = better :-)
>
>Last Omega-type question: car currently has a 61 Imapla rear end, which is
too
>wide. If the Nova front sub is the right track dimension, then a Nova rear
end
>from the same series should match the rear track OK (well, I know there might
>be a track difference front and rear, but on to the question). Can you
tell me
>if there are any year-to-year or type-to-type differences in Omega rear ends
>that make certain ones more desirable? If so, Do these premium jobs have
ready
>identification features? If so, what are they?
>
>TIA and cheers/Don Carron
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 11:52:36 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: DRL's

You don't want to get into this one.



At 11:36 AM 11/30/98 EST, you wrote:
>Dang,
>I missed the first post in this thread. What are DRLs?
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 11:09:33 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: 15x8 steel rims

FWIW

I've got an '84 full-size Blazer with 15 x 8 inch wheels. They are stock. 
Off the top of my head, though, I have no idea what bolt circle they have.

roger

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 11:57:51 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: DRL's

Daytime Running Lights

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 11:57:56 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....

In a message dated 11/30/98
 10:<BR51:<BR14 AM Central Standard T, ggilpin@wrallp.com writes:> A few
questions: What is the car in question here and what year is it?
>  Because a '61 Impala rear is way to wide for a compact X-body and they are
>  coil sprung whereas x-bodys have leaf springs.

Ed,

The car is a 47 Olds, and I'm still trying to get enough info to identify the
specific subframe. The car is still at a distance. I also don't know the
"factory" track dimension yet for a 47 Olds. Amazing how few libraries stock
47 Chiltons :-)

<<Rear end differences: Buick/Olds/Pontiac all shared the same 10 bolt rear
that differed from the Chevy 10 bolt. They are preferred due to a beefier
housing design. >>

Which are preferred, BOPO or chevy? :-)


Lots of really good info there Ed. Thanks a million.

Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 11:58:48 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: DRLs

In a message dated 11/30/98
 10:<BR53:<BR26 AM Central Standard T, ggilpin@wrallp.com writes:> You don't
want to get into this one.
>  
>  
>  
>  At 11:36 AM 11/30/98 EST, you wrote:
>  >Dang,
>  >I missed the first post in this thread. What are DRLs?


Yeah, I know, I just can't stand to see an abbreviation or acronym that I
can's suss out :-)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 12:15:25 -0500
From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: info on Rallye 350 qtr stickers

Olds list,
		Need to know if the ORIGINAL Rallye 350 rear quarter stickers 
were die
cut??? Also, is there a demand for just the pair?
         ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
               Mark Cornea (Dr. Decal)  OCA# 4903
                             1970 W30 (red)

                     <mailto:drdecal@wwnet.net>
                     <mailto:mcornea@ford.com>

                    Visit http://www.drdecal.com
        ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 12:20:10 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....

The BOP 10 bolt is beefier than the Chevy 10 bolt. 
The 12 bolt Chevy is superior to all.

To find a qustimate as to what year of frame is in that car. Look at the
steerinb box location. If it sits beside the engine (steering linkage
behind that big crossmember thing that sits under engine) it's '68 to '74.
If it sits ahead of the engine (steering linkage in front of the
crossmember thing) it's '75 up. I don't know exact measurements off the top
of my head.
Good luck with your find.

Ed
Omega Man 


- --------------------------------


At 11:57 AM 11/30/98 EST, you wrote:
>In a message dated 11/30/98
> 10:<BR51:<BR14 AM Central Standard T, ggilpin@wrallp.com writes:> A few
>questions: What is the car in question here and what year is it?
>>  Because a '61 Impala rear is way to wide for a compact X-body and they are
>>  coil sprung whereas x-bodys have leaf springs.
>
>Ed,
>
>The car is a 47 Olds, and I'm still trying to get enough info to identify the
>specific subframe. The car is still at a distance. I also don't know the
>"factory" track dimension yet for a 47 Olds. Amazing how few libraries stock
>47 Chiltons :-)
>
><<Rear end differences: Buick/Olds/Pontiac all shared the same 10 bolt rear
>that differed from the Chevy 10 bolt. They are preferred due to a beefier
>housing design. >>
>
>Which are preferred, BOPO or chevy? :-)
>
>
>Lots of really good info there Ed. Thanks a million.
>
>Cheers/Carron
>
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1632
*********************************

