Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1639


oldsmobile-digest     Thursday, December 3 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1639



Re: Looking for info on a Wayne Garnhardt
Re: 403 
parts car, session 2
Re: Looking for info on a Wayne Garnhardt
Re: Smog legal 350
Sox and Martin, non Olds
Re: Smog legal 350
RE: Smog legal 350
Re: Smog legal 350
Re: Better Horns?
403 
insurance woes
My web page (finally!)
Re: insurance woes
Re: Who has Desktop Dyno
Olds in NASCAR
Small Block update?
'76 Cutlass 350 V8. Engine bay wiring questions.
Re: Olds TV Sighting
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1638
4 Speed Manual Trans
Re: Small Block update?
3 Speed Trans
Re: Olds in NASCAR
Dear Car Enthusiast
Re: Small Block update?
Re: are you ready
Re: Heat Activated Choke Tube
Air Bags
RE: Air Bags
Turn Signal Problem
Re: Small Block update?
Rings in oil pan how serious?
Re: Rings in oil pan how serious?
Re:Turn Signal Problem
Holley Manifolds For Sale
Re: Small Block update?
W-30 455 rebuild
Air Bags (what are they)
Lightning Rods
Lightning Rod Shifter
hot rod magazine
Re: W-30 455 rebuild
Re: Rings in oil pan how serious?
Re: W-30 455 rebuild
?Restoration?
Re: ?Restoration?
Re: W-30 455 rebuild
Re: ?Restoration?
Re: Air Bags (what are they)
Re: W-30 455 rebuild
Hei Conversion

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 18:40:40 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Looking for info on a Wayne Garnhardt

Vinny, 
Thats my area, don't know the name, what did he race? He probably never
heard of me either, unless we went one on one.
Lou

- ----------
> From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Looking for info on a Wayne Garnhardt
> Date: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 6:11 PM
> 
> Hey all,
> 
> Have any of you ever heard of a Wayne Garnhardt???    He was supposed to
be a
> well know NHRA drag racer in the late 60's and 70's.
> 
> Thank you
> 
> 
> Vinny
> 62 Starfire
> 68 Hurst/Olds

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 18:21:37 -0600
From: bloom9@juno.com (C K)
Subject: Re: 403 

 Yes Ray, it's a really nice running car! He's had it repainted the
original silver, since it's the anniversery edition. The car has over
140k miles on it, so Olds did a good job on the engine. When he was
looking for a muscle car I tried really hard to talk him into getting a
442, but he settled for a Trans Am :-p

Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass

On Wed, 2 Dec 1998 17:17:54 -0500 "Ray Costanzo"
<costanzo@netcarrier.com> writes:
>Well your 400 is a big block in the 400-425-455 family.
>The 403 is a small block in the 260(?)-307-350-403 family.
>The 403 was only made from 77-79, and were in some T/A's.  I've heard 
>that
>the california T'A's were the ones with the 403's, but I think it was 
>more
>than just there.  Some had 400's (a Chevy or Ponitac engine (?)), but 
>the
>cool ones had Olds 403's (6.6L). That car's pretty torquey huh?
>
>Ray Costanzo
>87 409 Cutlass
>Bucks County, PA
>costanzo@netcarrier.com
>
>
 

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 18:43:04 -0600
From: bloom9@juno.com (C K)
Subject: parts car, session 2

 Once again I had a great time stripping (parts) on the '67 Cutlass parts
car. 

Today's goal was to remove the dash and everything connected to it. Boy,
what a job! Since the bucket seats were already removed, there was plenty
of laying on my back room.

After removing the air vents on both sides, the ash tray, the plastic air
"tube" under dash, the flexable duct, which was too brittle to save :-( ,
it was time to attack the assorted screws that fasten the dash.

This really wasn't that bad, but there was a few times I had to "feel" my
way around. The bad thing was the old insulation that is installed at the
factory. It's really bad about  choking the air and getting everywhere.

After removing all the screws it was time to un-attach all the heating
selector cables and wiring, which I left attach to the selector for safe
keeping. I also saved all vacumn hoses.

Then it was time to trim the assorted wiring nessasary to finish the dash
removal. I really hated to do this, but could see no alternative so I cut
the wires as long as I could. 

This set the dash free from the front and gave a good view of the rest of
the frontal area. Tomorrow, if the weather is good, I plan on removing
the automatic floor console and the back seat glass and the doors. And if
there's time, I'll look into trying to see about how to remove the
steering column.

Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 19:46:23 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: Looking for info on a Wayne Garnhardt

Hey Lou,

He use to race my 68 Hurst/Olds


Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 19:46:59 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Smog legal 350

In a message dated 12/2/98 4:39:11 PM Pacific Standard Time,
hurstolds@sprynet.com writes:

<< Hi Everyone
 
 I want to put a 350 Olds in my 84 H/O.  I know that it is a direct drope in.
My question is.  Are there 350 Heads that are Smog Legal.  I mean do that have
air pipe fittings.  If so what years will work.  I also know that everthing
from my 307 will bolt on. >>

     Not Olds, but my friend put a 350 in place of a 305, with NO AIR on the
350, and still passed. Doesn't LOOK right, but they can't look under the hood
here...aren't the 307 AIR fittings in the manifolds anyway? Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 18:52:53 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Sox and Martin, non Olds

Whoever sent the thread about Ronnie Sox being "Mr. Four Speed", it's not
him. Pulled out some Old pictures and found a picture of a guy named "Herb
McCandless", was out of Kentucky or Tenn. He was "Mr. Four Speed", have a
picture of He and I on the starting line, it's written on the door in big
letters. He was sponsored by Chrysler also, but not as much as S&M. If a
had a scanner I would send, was on the cover of AHRA mag, similar to "Natl.
Dragster"
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 20:08:34 -0500
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@pa.net>
Subject: Re: Smog legal 350

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Diane :

I am looking to do the same in my 85 Olds.
I have a 350 Buick which should bolt right in.
I am looking for info on best carb etc to meet
  minimum smog requirements. Any info would help

Ken Swick
swickka@pa.net=20

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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Diane :</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I am looking to do the same in my 85 =

Olds.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have a 350 Buick which should bolt =
right=20
in.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I am looking for info on best carb =
etc to=20
meet</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp; minimum smog requirements. =
Any info would=20
help</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Ken Swick<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:swickka@pa.net">swickka@pa.net</A>&nbsp;</FONT></DIV></BOD=
Y></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 20:06:48 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Smog legal 350

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If you used a later 70's 350, it'd have all smog provisions, well except for
whatever stuff is necessary for the computer.  The computers came into cars
in 1981, the first year that there was no Olds 350...
But as far as air pipes, don't they hook into the exhaust manifolds?  If you
have a 84 307, those manifolds would work on a 350.


Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com


    -----Original Message-----
    From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Diane DeLucia
    Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 7:37 PM
    To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
    Subject: Smog legal 350


    Hi Everyone

    I want to put a 350 Olds in my 84 H/O.  I know that it is a direct drope
in.  My question is.  Are there 350 Heads that are Smog Legal.  I mean do
that have air pipe fittings.  If so what years will work.  I also know that
everthing from my 307 will bolt on.

    Thanks
    Jim DeLucia
    84 Hurst Olds
    84 Monte SS

    hurstolds@sprynet.com

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<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D460140501-03121998><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial =
size=3D2>If you=20
used a later 70's 350, it'd have all smog provisions, well except for =
whatever=20
stuff is necessary for the computer.&nbsp; The computers came into cars =
in 1981,=20
the first year that there was no Olds 350...</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D460140501-03121998><FONT color=3D#0000ff face=3DArial =

size=3D2></FONT></SPAN><SPAN class=3D460140501-03121998><FONT =
color=3D#0000ff=20
face=3DArial size=3D2>But as far as air pipes, don't they hook into the =
exhaust=20
manifolds?&nbsp; If you have a 84 307, those manifolds would work on a=20
350.<BR><BR>
<P><FONT size=3D2>Ray Costanzo<BR>87 409 Cutlass<BR>Bucks County,=20
PA<BR>costanzo@netcarrier.com<BR></FONT>&nbsp;</FONT></SPAN></P></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE>
    <DIV class=3DOutlookMessageHeader><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman"=20
    size=3D2>-----Original Message-----<BR><B>From:</B>=20
    oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca=20
    [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]<B>On Behalf Of</B> Diane=20
    DeLucia<BR><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, December 02, 1998 7:37 =
PM<BR><B>To:</B>=20
    oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca<BR><B>Subject:</B> Smog legal=20
    350<BR><BR></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hi Everyone</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I want to put a 350 Olds in my =
84 H/O.&nbsp;=20
    I know that it is a direct drope in.&nbsp; My question is.&nbsp; Are =
there=20
    350 Heads that are Smog Legal.&nbsp; I mean do that have air pipe=20
    fittings.&nbsp; If so what years will work.&nbsp; I also know that =
everthing=20
    from my 307 will bolt on.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks </FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Jim DeLucia</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>84 Hurst Olds</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>84 Monte SS</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000=20
size=3D2>hurstolds@sprynet.com</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 20:09:44 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Smog legal 350

> aren't the 307 AIR fittings in the manifolds anyway? Dorian

Er, in a word, no.  They are fitted into the exhaust ports of the
heads.  The exhaust manifolds are "fitting" free.  

One interesting note, is that when I bought my black 85 442 brand new,
the AIR tubes going into the heads were chrome plated.  Cheaply, I might
add, not like say, a holley dual feed chrome gas line, but just a thin
coating. The chrome has burned/flaked off over the years and look sorta
cruddy.

Anyone else that bought a g-body H/O or 442, or even a Cutlass
Supreme/Salon/Calais with a V-8 new notice if your AIR tubes were
chromed?  I'd never noticed this before, and the GM replacements are NOT
chromed.  But I think I'll remedy that.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 20:17:36 EST
From: MFATZII@aol.com
Subject: Re: Better Horns?

I put a set on my 56 that blast the tune Tequila (air horns, not the
electronic-dummy horn) should have saved my money...........

Ryan

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 17:26:14 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: 403 

At 02:55 PM 12/2/98 -0600, you wrote:
>Hello all, a co-worker of mine a I were talking about Olds engines and we
>were wondering what the differences were between my '67 400ci and his '79
>403ci in his Trans Am. I know all about my engine, but not a thing about
>his. By the way, his 403ci is an Olds engine from the factory.

Your 400 is a big block and his 403 is a small block.
I think the 403 has the largest bore of all the olds engines

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 20:37:46 EST
From: MFATZII@aol.com
Subject: insurance woes

Well because of the record breaking weather around here (60's when it should
be 20's and 30's) I've been driving the 56 around, you know, checking the
recently took out and put back in again tranny.  Having a great time (no snow
fall yet) when I get a call today.  About a month ago I put liability
insurance on the car for 58 dollars for 6 months worth, and now because the
car isn't restored and show quality, the underwriters say that the car can't
be insured as a "Classic" and therefore will cost me ANOTHER 400 dolars.  I
know I have had a lot of tickets in my youth so these prices are high BUT the
@ssholes wana indian give on my policy. $%@*^&$  guess I'll just cancel and
continue the project from within the garage...........


Ryan (MFatzII@aol.com)  <-----------------bottom lip stickin' out
Lincoln,  Nebraska
<<Turn it on, Wind it up, Blow it out, OLDS-MO-BILE>>

56 88 4dr Sedan  (Project Rocket) 
<A HREF="http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/wieders2/">Click here</A>
83 Cutlass Supreme Brougham 307(RIP)
85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham V-6(girlfriend's)
89 Chevy Beretta CL (Ryan's  a.k.a   pool shark)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 20:43:47 -0500
From: "Mark Thurman" <Thurman@kvnet.org>
Subject: My web page (finally!)

To All:

From inspiration gained from this list, I finally got off my dead a*s and
tried this web page thing.  Give it a look (http://members.tripod.com/MT13)
& let me know how it looks, IF it looks (created it mostly with Frontpage
but did some manual html massaging - I don't know how/if it'll work ok with
Netscape, since I only have ie4.0), and any improvements,  etc.  I'm very
new to all this WWW stuff & I'm only on the digest, so patience please.
TIA
mt

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 20:50:58 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: insurance woes

Have you tried Haverty's?  They may not hassle you.  They don't bother me,
so they must be easy.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: MFATZII@aol.com <MFATZII@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 8:40 PM
Subject: insurance woes


>Well because of the record breaking weather around here (60's when it
should
>be 20's and 30's) I've been driving the 56 around, you know, checking the
>recently took out and put back in again tranny.  Having a great time (no
snow
>fall yet) when I get a call today.  About a month ago I put liability
>insurance on the car for 58 dollars for 6 months worth, and now because the
>car isn't restored and show quality, the underwriters say that the car
can't
>be insured as a "Classic" and therefore will cost me ANOTHER 400 dolars.  I
>know I have had a lot of tickets in my youth so these prices are high BUT
the
>@ssholes wana indian give on my policy. $%@*^&$  guess I'll just cancel and
>continue the project from within the garage...........
>
>
>Ryan (MFatzII@aol.com)  <-----------------bottom lip stickin' out
>Lincoln,  Nebraska
><<Turn it on, Wind it up, Blow it out, OLDS-MO-BILE>>
>
>56 88 4dr Sedan  (Project Rocket)
><A HREF="http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/wieders2/">Click
here</A>
>83 Cutlass Supreme Brougham 307(RIP)
>85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham V-6(girlfriend's)
>89 Chevy Beretta CL (Ryan's  a.k.a   pool shark)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 20:54:10 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Who has Desktop Dyno

Similarly... I've been thinking about getting a copy... Is it worth it?
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a 'glide :-(
'75 Supreme - project car....
'82 Supreme - SB, 700R4, 3.73's - Grin!
'86 Supreme - V-8 - daily driver...

roger hitson wrote:

> If you have this software & would consider running some numbers for me,
> please contact me off list.
>
> tia
>
> roger hitson
> hitson@i1.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 20:56:41 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: Olds in NASCAR

Out of curiousity, who can give me info about Olds in NASCAR?  Like when did
they leave, why?  Who drove, was the cars always Cutlasses. etc. etc.
Thanks masterminds!

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 20:19:18 -0600
From: Charles Lundin <cblundin@flash.net>
Subject: Small Block update?

Mine is a 1977 Cutlass with small block 260 cid with a 'dual-jet' (2bbl
carb) and 5 speed manual. My shop manual says the engine is the
same casting as the 350vinR. However the comparison of manifold gaskets 
for the two shows smaller holes for the water jacket on the 260 than on
the 350.

Its slow off the get-go, so I want to boost power and high end rpm too.

My plans:
1: dual headers to replace the single exhaust pipe will include a
    catalytic conerter on both sides. I do not have a manufacturer/brand
	selected and am open to ideas/suggestions.

2: Holley 300-16 street/performance intake manifold to replace the
     spread bore stock ( 2 bbl) manifold, this is a square flange and
     is out of production but possibly available through distribution
     and has a square flange mounting, its a single plane manifold.

3: Holley Model 4175 650cfm spread-bore carb PN 0-80555s ( announced in 
	March 1998). Holly technician recommended it without the
 	manifold however, and the local speed shop says that the carb 
	will work on the 300-16 manifold as well as the stock 
	spread-bore manifold.

Does anyone have a suggestion/advice/ or history of such a conversion?
Any guess as to what this will do to low end power and/or high end rpm?
Anyone know what the CFM is for a dual-jet? Could I get by with the carb
alone and achieve my goal?
Thanks, CL

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 02:40:49 -0600
From: "Charles A. Dempsey" <cdemps@lsumc.edu>
Subject: '76 Cutlass 350 V8. Engine bay wiring questions.

Hi,

I just bought up '76 Cutlass Supreme having 42K total miles (actually
supported by documentation!). It's in very good condition and runs like
a top, but the engine bay looks like the grease monkeys have worked on
it. If anybody has a '76 Cutlass with a 350 and AC I've got a couple of
questions for you.

1. There's a ground strap that goes from the middle right side of the
intake to *where*? It is about 10 inches long. I'm guessing it goes to
the AC compressor but there's no obvious place to put it. The normal
ground strap from the rear of the right head to the cowl is in place.
It's not that one.

2. Some Dufus has strung the white wire from the cowl to the heater
outlet *over* the AC box. I can't see the back of the heater outlet to
determine how to disconnect it. It feels like a bayonette connector, but
it won't budge. Any idea how to get this thing loose?

3. The blower fan acts weird. All the following occurs with the ignition
in the "on" position, but not the "accessory" position. I think somebody
has monkeyed with the wiring
a. In the off position the fan blows from the heater vents at low speed.
No response to fan speed selector.
b. In the AC position it blows out the AC vents at high speed no matter
what position the fan switch is in. 
c. In the heat position the engine idle solenoid is activated and the
engine races.

4. My AC compressor limiter switch is flopping around loose. It has a
hole in the limiter where it could be connected to a bolt, and also a
steel clip on the back such that it might be clipped somewhere. There's
no obvious place to put it. Where is yours attached.

I didn't just go out, look at this stuff and throw up my hands. I have a
'73 shop manual (the '73 is very similar but not identical to the '76)
and I've been through every page of it. No Joy!.

If you can answer any of these questions please e-mail me directly
<cdemps@lsumc.edu> as well as posting to the list. I am subscribed in
digest mode, so unless you do it'll be a day or more before I see your
response.

Best Regards,
Charles

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 21:20:32 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Olds TV Sighting

Seen it!  Cool movie even though the '69's driver is the bad guy... Where else
can you see a Willys and an Olds go at it... Grin!!!
Just rambling...
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a 'glide :-(
'75 Supreme - project car....
'82 Supreme - SB, 700R4, 3.73's - Grin!
'86 Supreme - V-8 - daily driver...

Kerry Kroger wrote:

> has anyone seen the movie HOT ROD it has a 69 cutlass done in disco orange
> flake and silver flake ends up with a blower on it bad guy drives it so of
> course it has to loose the races...KK
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 8:34 AM
> Subject: Re: Olds TV Sighting
>
> >Along this line, in the movie "The New Karate Kid" (or something along
> >that line) there is a beautiful 69 Olds in there as well. I believe it
> >to be a Cutlass but of course I have been wrong more then once in my
> >life! But, if you have a weak heart or cry easily, I wouldn't
> >recommend seeing it. They trash the car in the end. :-(
> >
> >
> >
> >==
> >Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> >rockman20@yahoo.com
> >1986 Honda Accord DX
> >1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
> >1981 John Deer Snowmobile
> >197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
> >1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
> >_________________________________________________________
> >DO YOU YAHOO!?
> >Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
> >

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 21:41:16 -0500 (EST)
From: Garbo162@webtv.net (Gary Lieb)
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1638

I have a 87  oldsmobile cutlass ciera the fiberglass front end is
cracked in 2 places i was wondering how much tha wold cost to replace

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 21:47:30 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: 4 Speed Manual Trans

Hello family.

In the time I've been on the list I don't believe there's been any
discussion on the manual transmissions used in the older 442's. What Trans
is it? What is it's length/tailshaft Vs the Auto 200-C. What cluch combo for
street/strip is a good compromise. I'm assuming the tailshaft splines are
different from auto to standard. I would imagine the torque transfer jolt is
considerable Vs auto so other than the recent rear axle housing thread,
anything else need beefing consideration. Are the cross members different?

It might be a G-body I'm converting, but it's this list that has the
knowledge I need.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

ICQ# 5209322 = "CC-IROC-SS"
Personal ICQ Communication Center:
http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322

Custom Conversion Proto-type:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
Project Questions To:
mailto:cc-iroc-ss@CC-IROC-SS.com

The CC-IROC-SS Project Delphi Forum:
http://forums.delphi.com/m/main.asp?sigdir=CC_IROC_SS

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 22:08:22 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Small Block update?

Performed a similar conversion on a '75 vintage 260 and here is what I
found...
    1) The heads on the 260 are designed for the 260's small displacement,
so... in order to increase torque (I'm assuming) the intake runners are 1/2
the size of conventional runners.  Unfortunately the way the accomplished
this was to fill the bottom half of the runner with material - BIG flow
stopper!  Not to mention a good spot for fuel to puddle...
    Being undaunted by this (plus I had already purchased the intake and
carb) I went forward with the installation... What I found was that the 260
required me to do a LOT of tuning to the carb to keep it from bogging out of
the hole.
    I had the motor tied to a th350 and 3.42's - after getting the carb
staightened out (had to rejet and fiddle with secondary opening rate) the
combo ran noticibly different... Part throttle was very similar (slightly
stronger) but where the big difference was, was in the top end - I had put
an "RV" type cam in it (PAW special...) and it definitly like the 4 barrel
over the 2 barrel.  Unfortunately never had the car to the strip either
before conversion or after but it did make a very marked improvement.  Gas
milage was about the same for both combos as long as I kept my foot out of
it (aprox. 17mpg).
Hope this helps!
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a 'glide :-(
'75 Supreme - project car....
'82 Supreme - SB, 700R4, 3.73's - Grin!
'86 Supreme - V-8 - daily driver...

Charles Lundin wrote:

> Mine is a 1977 Cutlass with small block 260 cid with a 'dual-jet' (2bbl
> carb) and 5 speed manual. My shop manual says the engine is the
> same casting as the 350vinR. However the comparison of manifold gaskets
> for the two shows smaller holes for the water jacket on the 260 than on
> the 350.
>
> Its slow off the get-go, so I want to boost power and high end rpm too.
>
> My plans:
> 1: dual headers to replace the single exhaust pipe will include a
>     catalytic conerter on both sides. I do not have a manufacturer/brand
>         selected and am open to ideas/suggestions.
>
> 2: Holley 300-16 street/performance intake manifold to replace the
>      spread bore stock ( 2 bbl) manifold, this is a square flange and
>      is out of production but possibly available through distribution
>      and has a square flange mounting, its a single plane manifold.
>
> 3: Holley Model 4175 650cfm spread-bore carb PN 0-80555s ( announced in
>         March 1998). Holly technician recommended it without the
>         manifold however, and the local speed shop says that the carb
>         will work on the 300-16 manifold as well as the stock
>         spread-bore manifold.
>
> Does anyone have a suggestion/advice/ or history of such a conversion?
> Any guess as to what this will do to low end power and/or high end rpm?
> Anyone know what the CFM is for a dual-jet? Could I get by with the carb
> alone and achieve my goal?
> Thanks, CL

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 21:18:30 -0600
From: Tom <72rocket@netnitco.net>
Subject: 3 Speed Trans

With all of this talk about rear end ratios I am wondering if anyone has 
any info on what the typical setup was for a 72 Cutlass/F85 with a 3 speed 
manual trans.  I am wondering what the trans gear ratios are as well as 
what rear ends were used.  My car seems to hit 3rd gear at pretty low 
speeds, around 30 or so.  Almost like it really needs a fourth gear.

Tom
72 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 22:24:55 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Olds in NASCAR

Ray Costanzo wrote:
> 
> Out of curiousity, who can give me info about Olds in NASCAR?  Like when did
> they leave, why?  Who drove, was the cars always Cutlasses. etc. etc.
> Thanks masterminds!

I think 93 was the last year for Olds in NASCAR.  But they've ran Super
88s in the early years, but later they stuck with the cutlass, since
about everyone else went with the midsize vehicles.  Harry Gant (skoal
#33) I do believe was the last entry....

Even the famed drivers such as Richard Petty and Dale Earnhardt drove
442s......

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 22:23:41 -0500 (EST)
From: spike@discountperformance.com
Subject: Dear Car Enthusiast

Discount Performance
1342 E. Hillcrest Drive, Unit 23
Thousand Oaks, CA 91362
805.494.7791 - Fax 805.494.7391
http://www.discountperformance.com/

Dear Car Enthusiast,
    We would like to invite you to a unique Website specific to the needs of a 
car enthusiast.  One of these important unique features allows you to find a 
list of all car parts available for your specific car, and only your car.  We 
also provide you with a 24-hour Online Tech Support for whatever you may 
need.  We do a lot of business with major car clubs (including group 
discounts).  Our prices are fantastic, please check them out!

Respectfully,
Discount Performance

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 22:32:49 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: Small Block update?

In a message dated 12/2/98
 8:<BR21:<BR25 PM Central Standard Tim, cblundin@flash.net writes:> 
>  Its slow off the get-go, so I want to boost power and high end rpm too.


Just curious,

It seems that this would be far more costly than sticking a stock 350 or 403
in there. Certainly a garden-variety 350 would make more power than a slightly
tuned 260. What am I missing here?

Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 22:53:39 EST
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: are you ready

peter..are you ready for sat night????

jeff...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 22:24:50 -0600
From: "72Hurst" <72hurst@net-email.com>
Subject: Re: Heat Activated Choke Tube

The thing is, I want to still use the heat activated choke as it is supposed
to be, I don't want to cap off the opening, I'm just looking for a way to
seal around the fitting more effectively.

John
- -----Original Message-----


I used a piece of aluminum cut to the roughly the same shape and bolted it
over the choke opening. I used no sealers and it's been very effective. No
leaks thus far. The aluminum adds a little flare, especially since it won't
tarnish or fade.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 20:42:33 -0800
From: Chris & Robin Miller <cya442@san.rr.com>
Subject: Air Bags

Is anyone out there using a set of air bags on their car?  I have new
springs all around but it is a little too soft in the rear!

- --
Chris Miller
San Diego, CA
mailto:cya442@san.rr.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 23:44:43 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Air Bags

I'm running an independently plumbed set in the CC-IROC-SS Prototype for
traction control.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

ICQ# 5209322 = "CC-IROC-SS"
Personal ICQ Communication Center:
http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322

Custom Conversion Proto-type:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
Project Questions To:
mailto:cc-iroc-ss@CC-IROC-SS.com

The CC-IROC-SS Project Delphi Forum:
http://forums.delphi.com/m/main.asp?sigdir=CC_IROC_SS

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Chris & Robin
Miller
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 11:43 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Air Bags


Is anyone out there using a set of air bags on their car?  I have new
springs all around but it is a little too soft in the rear!

- --
Chris Miller
San Diego, CA
mailto:cya442@san.rr.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 20:42:31 -0800 (PST)
From: Larry <kajrav@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Turn Signal Problem

Fellow at work has a problem we can't figure out.

A '92 Cutlass Supreme SL has working flashers but nonworking turn
signals.  

A trip to the parts store gave him a regular round flasher unit to
replace.

The problem:  Where is it located?  Several of us looked under the
dash and the fuse box and checked the owner's manual etc.  Can't
figure out where the doggoned thing is/goes.

Any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

Larry




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 22:46:54 -0600
From: Charles Lundin <cblundin@flash.net>
Subject: Re: Small Block update?

Re: Certainly a garden-variety 350 would make more power than a slightly
tuned 260. What am I missing here?

Thanks for the question. 
Your thoughts about my answer are appreciated.

The rationale is this:
1. I can probably handle the carb and manifold by myself, but am
extremely intimidated by a complete engine replace or overhaul. 
The car is needed for daily commuting and I cant have it out of
commission for but a day or two. Christmast-New Year break is comming
and would be a good time to do the work.

2. The cost of a 350 from a wrecking yard to rebuild is about $350,
rebuilding it would be another $600. Balancing to my flywheeel would be
another $120( and there is a big question of whether or not my flywheel
would fit). Total is $1,050. Added costs in renting/buying engine stand
and cherry picker( and I dont have work room for that) or else paying a
shop another $600 to do the swap, running the total to $1,650 without a
dual exhaust. A quote from a local engine reubilder for a 350 with a
holley 4bbl and holley intake manifold was $2600 with a warranty. That
was without dual exhaust.

3. Cost of the Holley 4175 carb is $339, the manifold is $240+/- Total
about $580. Headers about $150, catalytic converter and new tail pipe at
the local muffler shop about $200.  Total about $930.  And the job can
be done in maybe a day, probably less, by myself. 

4. The 260cid probably needs new rings and bearings etc. HOwever, the
cylinder pressure is averaging 60psi and is realtively even across
cylinders so a overhaul could be dealyed. However the current carb is in
terrible shape with a faulty accelerator pump and a ruptured/stuck
power-valve. It needs to be replaced soon, and that can be more quickly
& easily implemented with the Holley 4175, using the stock intake
manifold and no changes to headers( so Holley says anyway).  So I could
fix the immediate need with only approx $340 and do the other work
later, and get an increase ( granted smaller however) in performance(
per Holley again).

5. My overall goal for improving performance is to keep the car and keep
it running satisfactorily and do so without taking big risks in unknown
parts/engines. Motivation is out of financial limitation rather than
from using surplus cash to build a show car( Maybe that can happen in
the future). 



SpeedCom@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 12/2/98
>  8:<BR21:<BR25 PM Central Standard Tim, cblundin@flash.net writes:>
> >  Its slow off the get-go, so I want to boost power and high end rpm too.
> 
> Just curious,
> 
> It seems that this would be far more costly than sticking a stock 350 or 403
> in there. Certainly a garden-variety 350 would make more power than a 
slightly
> tuned 260. What am I missing here?
> 
> Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 00:21:23 EST
From: DrkSole96@aol.com
Subject: Rings in oil pan how serious?

Hi, I took the oil pan off the 425 I have in the garage, and found pieces of
the piston rings.  This would explain why the motor smoked so much before we
pulled it, and I probably broke the rings by over-revving the old beast.  
The motor wasn't making any bad noises (knocking, clicking or the like), it
was just smoking a lot.  
Anyway, are these ring fragments a sign of anything very serious?  
DrkSole
73 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 22:35:41 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Rings in oil pan how serious?

> Hi, I took the oil pan off the 425 I have in the garage, and found > the 
piston rings.  
> Anyway, are these ring fragments a sign of anything very serious?

In a word...  yes.  As long as you consider broken piston(s) and scored 
cylinder
walls normal.  On the other hand, these are normally replaced and reconditioned
to a point anyway, so in another word, no.  Depends on what your plans are.  If
you're planning a full overhaul, then they're no problem at all.  If you were
intending on just throwing rings at it and calling it done, you're probably in
for a tough ride.  It's not very often that a piston ring chunk will leave it's
homeland without leaving footprints in its surrounding areas.  

- -- 

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 22:39:05 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re:Turn Signal Problem

> The problem:  Where is it located? 

Did you check out the relay bank under the glove box?  I ~think~ in that year
the glove box insert slid out revealing a whole ton of stuff down there.  Also
viewable by removing the hushpanel above the passenger's leg compartment. (aka
floor?) Not intimately familiar with the 92's but in sticking with GM's design
of that era, that'd be where I'd look (if you haven't already)
- -- 

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 00:44:03 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Holley Manifolds For Sale

Ladies and Gents,

As I am cleaning out my garage in plans for a move sometime by mid-1999, I am
going to offer some parts that I no longer need, and these are two of such
pieces.


HOLLEY STREET DOMINATOR MANIFOLDS FOR SALE

1 Small Block -- was used on "Elfie" back in 1992 at Lakeside Speedway and
I-70 Speedway.  No porting ever done, only modification is to the driver's
side rear corner of the head flange, to add a water outlet across from the
heater outlet so we could plunb water from the back of the heads to the
thermostat housing.  This opening (with a brass fitting permanently installed)
can be capped and did not leak when we used it.  Since we now have to run the
Performer Olds 350 this manifold isn't something I can use.  Price: $100.00
plus shipping.

1 Big Block -- purchased used from a co-worker off of a boat engine (wished I
had a boat like that!) and never installed.  It does have a crack in the heat
crossover, but this is easily repaired (as I was told by a welder at work who
specializes in aluminum aircraft parts) or capped off if for racing use.
Never ported as far as I know, and will inspect it more closely if someone's
interested.  Price: $150.00 plus shipping.

Either or both of these can be personally delivered if you're in the Kansas
City area.  The proceeds will be going to the EADGBE Fund (Expenses Are
Depleting Grace's Budget's Expectations) in the name of the donor.  E-mail me
privately if interested in either of these manifolds.

Thanks for your time, and Take Care!

Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 00:44:36 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Small Block update?

In a message dated 12/2/98 8:48:37 PM Pacific Standard Time,
cblundin@flash.net writes:

<< The rationale is this:
 1. I can probably handle the carb and manifold by myself, but am
 extremely intimidated by a complete engine replace or overhaul. 
 The car is needed for daily commuting and I cant have it out of
 commission for but a day or two. Christmast-New Year break is comming
 and would be a good time to do the work. >>

     Engine swaps, just like motor rebuilding or transmission rebuilding, are
intimidating until you actually do it. Granted, lifting a 500+ object into and
out of an engine bay CAN be difficult, but it gets easier the more you do it.
Classifieds/Parts Trader are good places to look for engines. I picked up my
403 from a wrecking yard, and it lasted two years with hard driving
$250....And you will love the power of a 350 or 403...you won't ever want to
go back : )   Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 23:55:55 -0800
From: steven@purplemonkey.com (Steven Saraceno)
Subject: W-30 455 rebuild

OK, my car is going into the shop tomorrow for an engine rebuild.  

Problem:
It has extremely bad blow by - about a quart of oil a day.

Usage:
Mostly with the Family, sometimes to work on beautiful days.
I have never raced it but with the new drag strip in Joliet Illinois I
know I will at least a couple of times a year.  So a stock W-30
performance level should be fine.

Questions:
Of course I would love 550hp but it is a cruiser not a racer.
Do I have Mondello work the heads?
Do I replace any certain parts no matter what - i.e. camshaft rings and
bearings of course(I think).  But how about pistons, water pump, valves
etc.  Are there things I should do as long as the engine is a part?

Am I asking too much to have a lightly modified street worthy W-30, that
will do low 13's or high 12's in the ¼ mile?  It has the original 70 455
block, F-heads and carb with electronic ignition with a turbo 400 trans
and a W-27 rear end - can't find the code but the car has air so I
assume it is a 3.23.  I do want it to appear stock so I want to keep the
W-30 intake also.

Any insight appreciated.

Steven

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 22:59:05 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Air Bags (what are they)

Okay, I have a question about air-bags.  First, what are they and what do
they do.  Second, what kind of suspension to they bolt on to.  So far, all I
know is that they give traction where traction is just a dream (like my
Delta).  I have coil springs on my Delta (heavy duty Custom Cruiser units
from TRW, new) and a set of Heavy Duty shocks.  The car has no traction at
all.  Could I add a set of airbags to boost traction?  Can they be used on a
daily driver?  Are they a pain in the ass?  The car has a posi and 3.23s.
The tires are BFGoodrich 255/60/15s.  Thanks.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 00:59:53 -0500
From: Norval Minnear <norval@ictransnet.com>
Subject: Lightning Rods

I am looking for a set of Lightning Rod Shifters and Console for my

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 01:03:47 -0500
From: Norval Minnear <norval@ictransnet.com>
Subject: Lightning Rod Shifter

I am looking for a set of Lightning Rod Shifters and Console for my 76
Hurst Olds I will buy the Lightning Rods With or without the console .
Thanks Norval,

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 22:08:03 -0800 (PST)
From: jalkara <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: hot rod magazine

all oldsmobiles for readers rides in january 1999 issue

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 23:10:19 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: W-30 455 rebuild

>Do I have Mondello work the heads?
>Do I replace any certain parts no matter what - i.e. camshaft rings and
>bearings of course(I think).  But how about pistons, water pump, valves
>etc.  Are there things I should do as long as the engine is a part?


If you can afford it, do all.  But, the least you should do is new pistons,
rings, cam & cam bearings, double-roller timing chain, new oil pump, etc..
If you have money, get new bigger valves.  If you already have big valves
and they can be re-cut, this is good too.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 01:16:14 EST
From: DrkSole96@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rings in oil pan how serious?

In a message dated 98-12-03 00:36:18 EST, you write:

<< In a word...  yes.  As long as you consider broken piston(s) and scored
cylinder
 walls normal.  On the other hand, these are normally replaced and
reconditioned
 to a point anyway, so in another word, no. >>

Thanks, I was going to have it redone, so hopefully it won't be to much of a
problem.

DrkSole
73 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 01:22:04 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: W-30 455 rebuild

In a message dated 12/2/98 9:54:30 PM Pacific Standard Time,
steven@purplemonkey.com writes:

<< Of course I would love 550hp but it is a cruiser not a racer.
 Do I have Mondello work the heads?
 Do I replace any certain parts no matter what - i.e. camshaft rings and
 bearings of course(I think).  But how about pistons, water pump, valves
 etc.  Are there things I should do as long as the engine is a part? >>

     Steven, supposedly cam bearings don't wear out as often as the other
bearings...if you have the money, replace anything that MAY fail due to age
while it's apart. Really depends on budget..if the block doesn't need to be
bored (I've heard anywhere from .005 to .010 is when the cylinders have to be
bored) then the pistons SHOULD be good to re-use, but if you aren't sure, have
the shop take a look. If you're on a budget, the new pistons and boring will
cost around $300 (here anyway) 
     Should have the heads checked over, new guides put in, valve job, check
the springs. $75 here will get a pair of heads checked and the valve job
done...another $75 for guides. Check the pushrods for straightness, and of
course replace lifters if replacing the cam. Don't forget perhaps a crank
grind, and the main and rod bearings that will probably have to be replaced.I
found most of this out on my 403, but I'm still learning. I'm sure others will
have more to add. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 00:26:27 -0600
From: Mark <greenmm@earthlink.net>
Subject: ?Restoration?

Since you all seem to know so much, where can I find an owners
manual for my 1975 Oldsmobile Delta 88.  When I bought it it did not
have one and have had no luck for 5 years.

  Secondly, I want to slowly restore it, but am not sure where to start.
Any suggestions? I am a little strapped for cash so will probably have
to wait on some of the needed things.  But where do you people
usually start?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 02:17:17 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: ?Restoration?

Mark wrote:
> 
> Since you all seem to know so much, where can I find an owners
> manual for my 1975 Oldsmobile Delta 88.  When I bought it it did not
> have one and have had no luck for 5 years.

Have you tried Helm Inc?  I believe they have a web site that will pop
up with a search.  If not I know they have an 800 number but I don't
have it.  Again a search of the 800 information section might be of use
to you.  I don't know if their inventory still goes back that far, but
it used to a few years ago.
 
>   Secondly, I want to slowly restore it, but am not sure where to start.
> Any suggestions? I am a little strapped for cash so will probably have
> to wait on some of the needed things.  But where do you people
> usually start?

Generally it seems most people start with the mechanical end of things.
Specifically the brakes first and then the drive train.  Before doing
anything though, I would inspect the vehicle and try to stop any
problems that will make the condition of the car worst in the immediate
future and, as a result, more expensive to restore.  For example any
instances of surface rust I would sand, primer, sand and shoot some kind
of sealer on to keep the situation from becoming a rust through with the
attendant panel patch or replacement.  Also I would check the integrity
of the drainage and watertightness of the car to lessen further rust
problems until they could be addressed directly.  For example any leaks
around the windshield/back glass/etc should be fixed immediately even if
you have to go back and reseal permanently the same area at a later
time.  Amazing what a few dropw of moisture in the wrong places can do
in a short periof of time.  I, on the other hand, have a tendency to
start with letting the car rust for 5 or 10 years first, letting some
one steal what they want  off my car(s) and then begin the great parts
hunt.  One thing to keep in mind however, is the constant search for
quality replacement parts, particularly used perfect sheetmetal and/or
options that you wish to add to your baby.  Sometimes these will only
appear once in a period of years and if you aren't alert they are gone. 
Happened to me more than once unfortunately.    Good luck on your
project.  Hopefully I get to work on one of mine this coming winter,
time, money and daughters/wife willing. Always seems to be more places
to use my money than I have money to use. I either need fewer projects
or more jobs I guess.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 01:46:46 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: W-30 455 rebuild

I do NOT know what I'm talking about, OK?  I am asking a question...

Shouldn't he DEFINATELY go ahead and get the thing bored to, say, .030
while he's got the thing apart?  Even if cost WAS a major consideration
(i.e., don't want to buy oversize pistons), this old a block will
eventually need to be honed, and since you can't do a honing job without
ripping EVERYTHING out (like he's doing), and since the blowby will require
this anyway...is this not THE (in HUGE LETTERS!) time to do it?



At 01:55 AM 12/3/98 , you wrote:
>OK, my car is going into the shop tomorrow for an engine rebuild.  
>
>Problem:
>It has extremely bad blow by - about a quart of oil a day.
>
>Usage:
>Mostly with the Family, sometimes to work on beautiful days.
>I have never raced it but with the new drag strip in Joliet Illinois I
>know I will at least a couple of times a year.  So a stock W-30
>performance level should be fine.
>
>Questions:
>Of course I would love 550hp but it is a cruiser not a racer.
>Do I have Mondello work the heads?
>Do I replace any certain parts no matter what - i.e. camshaft rings and
>bearings of course(I think).  But how about pistons, water pump, valves
>etc.  Are there things I should do as long as the engine is a part?
>
>Am I asking too much to have a lightly modified street worthy W-30, that
>will do low 13's or high 12's in the ¼ mile?  It has the original 70 455
>block, F-heads and carb with electronic ignition with a turbo 400 trans
>and a W-27 rear end - can't find the code but the car has air so I
>assume it is a 3.23.  I do want it to appear stock so I want to keep the
>W-30 intake also.
>
>Any insight appreciated.
>
>Steven
> 
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 03:00:57 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: ?Restoration?

Don Sowers wrote:

> Mark wrote:
> >
> > Since you all seem to know so much, where can I find an owners
> > manual for my 1975 Oldsmobile Delta 88.  When I bought it it did not
> > have one and have had no luck for 5 years.
>
>
>
> >   Secondly, I want to slowly restore it, but am not sure where to start.
> > Any suggestions? I am a little strapped for cash so will probably have
> > to wait on some of the needed things.  But where do you people
> > usually start?
>
> Generally it seems most people start with the mechanical end of things.
> Specifically the brakes first and then the drive train.  Before doing
> anything though, I would inspect the vehicle and try to stop any
> problems that will make the condition of the car worst in the immediate
> future and, as a result, more expensive to restore.  For example any
> instances of surface rust I would sand, primer, sand and shoot some kind
> of sealer on to keep the situation from becoming a rust through with the
> attendant panel patch or replacement.  Also I would check the integrity
> of the drainage and watertightness of the car to lessen further rust
> problems until they could be addressed directly.  For example any leaks
> around the windshield/back glass/etc should be fixed immediately even if
> you have to go back and reseal permanently the same area at a later
> time.  Amazing what a few dropw of moisture in the wrong places can do
> in a short periof of time.  I, on the other hand, have a tendency to
> start with letting the car rust for 5 or 10 years first, letting some
> one steal what they want  off my car(s) and then begin the great parts
> hunt.  One thing to keep in mind however, is the constant search for
> quality replacement parts, particularly used perfect sheetmetal and/or
> options that you wish to add to your baby.  Sometimes these will only
> appear once in a period of years and if you aren't alert they are gone.
> Happened to me more than once unfortunately.    Good luck on your
> project.  Hopefully I get to work on one of mine this coming winter,
> time, money and daughters/wife willing. Always seems to be more places
> to use my money than I have money to use. I either need fewer projects
> or more jobs I guess.

The other bad thing about owning and trying to find parts for these "lead
sleds" is that they make for very durable demolition derby cars.
That only serves to make sheet metal scarce as hens teeth.
Another place to look for Oldsmobile literature is on E-bay.
Good Luck

Mark Hahn
75 Delta 88 Royale Convertible
Cincinnati, Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 03:05:42 -0500
From: Norval Minnear <norval@ictransnet.com>
Subject: Re: Air Bags (what are they)

Igor T. '81 DRB 455 wrote:
> 
> Okay, I have a question about air-bags.  First, what are they and what do
> they do.  Second, what kind of suspension to they bolt on to.  So far, all I
> know is that they give traction where traction is just a dream (like my
> Delta).  I have coil springs on my Delta (heavy duty Custom Cruiser units
> from TRW, new) and a set of Heavy Duty shocks.  The car has no traction at
> all.  Could I add a set of airbags to boost traction?  Can they be used on a
> daily driver?  Are they a pain in the ass?  The car has a posi and 3.23s.
> The tires are BFGoodrich 255/60/15s.  Thanks.
> 
> Igor Todorovic
> 1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
They are bags that go inside the coil springs and can be purchesed at
most RV centers or spring shops and they are not a pain.....

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 03:28:30 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: W-30 455 rebuild

In a message dated 12/2/98 11:43:48 PM Pacific Standard Time,
b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu writes:

<< I do NOT know what I'm talking about, OK?  I am asking a question...
 
 Shouldn't he DEFINATELY go ahead and get the thing bored to, say, .030
 while he's got the thing apart?  Even if cost WAS a major consideration
 (i.e., don't want to buy oversize pistons), this old a block will
 eventually need to be honed, and since you can't do a honing job without
 ripping EVERYTHING out (like he's doing), and since the blowby will require
 this anyway...is this not THE (in HUGE LETTERS!) time to do it?
  >>

     The way I look at it, depending on the block, and how far it can be
overbored, they aren't making them anymore, and once the block is to the
limit, it's done for. I personally don't know what sleeving a cylinder costs,
but I bet it ain't cheap. My 403 is now garbage after the cylinders wear out,
and then I have to go get a whole new engine. I plan on keeping my stuff
awhile, and at least two more rebuilds aren't out of the question. 
     If you are unsure whether it needs to be bored or not, take it too a
machine shop..they can tell you. If it's under .005 wear why bore? If using
cast rings, they will take up the slop. Yes a honing is necessary, but the
pistons have to come out for a bore OR a hone anyway. $300 additional dollars
on a budget is a big deal..difference between $600 and $900 is a lot. But you
are correct..if anything is even questionable, now is the time to do it, not
when it fails.  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 06:23:16 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Hei Conversion

This goes out to anyone who has done the points to HEI conversion.  I just
purchased and HEI from Jim Chermack for my '73 Delta 88.  How did you or did
you have to do much rewiring?  More importantly I would like to get a copy
of the wiring diagram for the HEI.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1639
*********************************

