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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1664


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, December 14 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1664



Re: 8000 RPM 350 (long response)
Alero Sweepstakes
75 Olds Delta 88 Mirror
(no subject)
Ford now has a 330ci engine
Re: Ford now has a 330ci engine
Re: engine assembly 101
87G Nose Parts, ISO
Re: 75 Olds Delta 88 Mirror
Re: Ford now has a 330ci engine
Re: 8000 RPM 350
Re: Olds in Movies
(no subject)
Re: 75 Olds Delta 88 Mirror
Re: 75 Olds Delta 88 Mirror
Re: Ford now has a 330ci engine
Re: 75 Olds Delta 88 Mirror
Gapless Vs Hand gaped rings.
Re: '70 A/C Wiring
Re: Ford now has a 330ci engine
Re: Olds in Movies
Re: FARGO
Re: FARGO
Re: Traction Bars on Delta
Re: EGR and 455s
oil pumps and restrictors
Re: 68 442 convert found?
Re: Pontmobile Question/SUPERCARS BEARING
Polyurethane Bushings
Re: Polyurethane Bushings
Re: Polyurethane Bushings
RE: Polyurethane Bushings
best place to buy battery sheet metal
Re: [Re: 70-72 W-30 Hood Stripes]
Re: FARGO
Re: best place to buy battery sheet metal
Re: 8000 RPM 350
Re: [Re: 70-72 W-30 Hood Stripes]
Arizona Junkyards
crankshaft drilling/adaptor bearing
Re: car prob?? was Re: Kane County, IL show & swap & car prob??
What Happened with this? was: [Year One] Discounts Revisited...
Re: oil pumps and restrictors
Re: best place to buy battery sheet metal
700R4 tranny w/not shift to 3rd @WOT
Re: [Re: [Re: 70-72 W-30 Hood Stripes]]
Re: What Happened with this? was: [Year One] Discounts Revisited...
RE: [Re: 70-72 W-30 Hood Stripes]
RE: crankshaft drilling/adaptor bearing
Re: best place to buy battery sheet metal
PF-31 ???
RE: best place to buy battery sheet metal
RE: crankshaft drilling/adaptor bearing

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 22:57:34 -0600
From: Shang <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: 8000 RPM 350 (long response)

mbloomer wrote:
> 
> True, BUT, on a 350 with the Performer RPM package the engine's
> peak hp (397) is at 6,000 rpm redline.  This motor will continue to
> make more hp further up in the rpm's.  So in this case there is more
> power to be had by spinning the motor higher.  Why? I did it to get
> 450 hp out of a small block and embarass a bunch of ch*vy guys.
> ("honest, just a stock 350 Olds with a cam, look for yourself!")
> Once you've made enough power down low to make traction a
> problem but you still want to run faster the only other place to add
> it is up the rev range.
> 
> Mike B
> mbloomer@gateway.net
> ICQ# 19113713
> 72 Cutlass S (RIP)
> 68 Cutlass Supreme
> 
> >Making a motor spin higher DOES NOT mean that it will make more power. Also
> >why spin a motor high to make powere when you can spin it low and make
> >power. Higher RPMs put so much more of a strain on a motor (parts wear
> >faster and break).
> >Pettrix@prodigy.net
> >


I have to comment on this issue. Several weeks ago I posted a question
concerning outrageous RPM's on a small block. I do believe it can be
done very easily. As long as the motor is balanced and the oil system
has been upgraded. 

So this brings me to a new question - and I hope I am not starting WWIII
here....why does everyone repeatly refer to the small block Olds as
making power at low-RPM? This motor has 3.385" stroke. This is shorter
than the 350 Chevy (3.48"). I think we all agree that stroke is what
makes torque, and there is no arguing that a BB Olds is a low-RPM torque
monster. I still have a 350 in my '70. I run 10.0:1 compression, a Comp
Cam 270H, and a Performer intake. Even with my 3.73's, this motor just
simply doesn't pull hard until about 2000RPM. Back in '93 when I was in
HS, I had a '70 Pontiac LeMans with a Pontiac 350 that had a 3.75"
stroke, and I'll tell you that the Pontiac motor would have ate my Olds
350 alive in the bottom end and that motor was comparably built and only
had 2.78's. 

I am not expert, but I do know how my car performs, and I understand
what impact bore and stroke have on an engine. I think we should study
the small-block Olds more closely and re-examine the generic "it's an
Olds motor, so therefore it is a torque monster" stereo-type. I think
anyone with a W-31 350 certainly can tell you that that motor is NOT
making the majority of it's power in the lower RPM range, especially
with 3.91 gears.

Small-block owner's repond and let us know where you feel your motor is
making the most power.

I hope this post has not offended anyone. I know that tone and emotion
often do not carry over properly in text, so please understand that this
message is not written in an offensive or condescending tone.


Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 00:25:26 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Alero Sweepstakes

Hey, anyone want to win an Alero? Ran into this in my cyber walk today.

Good luck. Sweepstakes ends 12/31/98

http://www.startsomething.com/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 23:30:02 -0600
From: Mark <greenmm@earthlink.net>
Subject: 75 Olds Delta 88 Mirror

Anyone have a mirror for a 1975 Olds Delta 88?

Secondly, anyone know how to install one?
  *Do I need the entire housing? Or just the mirror itself?
  *What cable do I need to re-attach?

Any and all hints or help is greatly appreciated.

Now, how did I get in this situation?

  I went to go to work Sunday morning and someone stole my
mirror!!!!!!!!  I wish I could use worse language, but am trying to
refrain myself.  Not sure if they stole for fun or parts, as there are 2
other Olds Delta 88 of same year in town.  Also noticed that there is a
bracket inside that looks broke.  Does that mean I will not be able to
re-attach the mirror?  REALLY makes me mad though to know people do this
to other people's cars.

  Anyways, has anyone else had to replace a mirror before?  Please
help.  Is a little hard to drive without my drivers side mirror right
now.  If anyone has any suggestions, please let me know.  Thanks.

Mark MacDonald
1975 Delta 88 Royale Convertible (minus one mirror now!)
<http://home.earthlink.net/~greenmm>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 13 Dec 1998 23:30:14 -0800
From: Ted Griffin <griffint@govst.edu>
Subject: (no subject)

unsubscribe oldsmobile griffint@govst.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 01:01:09 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Ford now has a 330ci engine

I was reading the road test on the F-150, and I almost started crying when i
saw this :
Displacement..........330 cu in, 5410cc 
Power (SAE net)..........260 bhp @ 4500 rpm 
Torque (SAE net)..........345 lb-ft @ 2300 rpm 

FORD COPIED OLDSMOBILE IN CUBIC INCHES! Thoes assholes! (sorry, im mad!) I
will spit on the next ford i see
Kelly Erickson
1966 Cutlass, OLDS 330 powered

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 01:46:22 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Ford now has a 330ci engine

Gutlass66@aol.com wrote:

> I was reading the road test on the F-150, and I almost started crying when i
> saw this :
> Displacement..........330 cu in, 5410cc
> Power (SAE net)..........260 bhp @ 4500 rpm
> Torque (SAE net)..........345 lb-ft @ 2300 rpm
>
> FORD COPIED OLDSMOBILE IN CUBIC INCHES! Thoes assholes! (sorry, im mad!) I
> will spit on the next ford i see
> Kelly Erickson
> 1966 Cutlass, OLDS 330 powered

Sounds to me to be a very complimentary choice by F*rd for their F-150 line.

Mark Hahn
75 Delta Royale Conv. 350
Cincinnati, Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 01:47:35 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: engine assembly 101

All this is true, except if the rings are the childs & Albert gapless
rings.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Mr57olds@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: engine assembly 101
> Date: Sunday, December 13, 1998 7:56 PM
> 
> In a message dated 98-12-12 22:30:26 EST, you write:
> 
> << Rebuilding the 400  for  the '69 442.  Questions,
>  
>      top ring-bevel side down? right
>      2d ring- dot side up? right
>  
>  I looked at the Mondello supertuning figures which say the top ring
should
>  be .011-.014 and the 2d should be .010-.012.
>  
>  Well, the second ring out of the box is .017.  What's up with that?  I
mean,
>  I know the stock clearance is .020 but what the heck am I supposed to do
>  now? >>
> 
> If one side of ring is not marked with word "top", "up", or dot then the
> inside bevel goes up.  If there is an outside bevel (rare) then it goes
down.
> This applies to all compression rings.   As for gap, you need enough to
keep
> from ever butting the ends of rings.  As the rings heat up the end gap
gets
> less.  .012 should be minimum for top and .010 for 2nd rings.  You will
never
> see a difference at .017.   Most important!!!  Make sure bores are clean
prior
> to installing pistons and rings.
> Mr57olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 00:43:09 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: 87G Nose Parts, ISO

Anyone have (just collecting dust, preferrably...) a trim bezel and side 
(front)
marker light for the 87 Cutlass?  I'll soon be seeking these, I'm talking about
the park light right beside the composite headlamp assembly, and the outer trim
"ring" that outlines the grille, headlamp assy, and side marker lamp.  If 
anyone
has these lying around, and can be received at a fairly low price (read that 
I'm
absolutely broke...) give me a holler...  Can't guarantee I'd take 'em (again
referring to the statement of my monetary status) but I'd like to at least
locate some options.  I'd really like to find some in the local junkyard, and 
do
some "horse trading" but that's not looking very good :(

FWIW, I believe the part #'s are 22528715 for the bezel, and 5974361 for the
light.  Oh, and it's the driver's side that I need...  TIA...
- -- 

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 02:51:07 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: 75 Olds Delta 88 Mirror

OK.  I havn't done this on a 75, but I know how to do it on an '84, and it
might be the same...this assumes that your car has an interior control for
the mirror (meaning you DON'T adjust the mirror by positioning it with your
hand).

RULE #1 - Do NOT cut the cables.  This may be a no-brainer, but I am sorry
to say that I ruined a perfectly good candidate (and then proceeded to pay
for it, not knowing that I had ruined it) by thinking that I could cut the
cables right where they attach to the back of the mirror, and then...I
don't know, "rethread them" or something.  Stupid, stupid, stupid.

Basically, the key (again, for '84s and their ilk) is to get the entire
assembly, from the metal outside housing all the way to the interior
control lever.  You might think (as I did) that the control lever will not
fit through the outside of the door, but it turns out that this is
precisely the way to do it.

Get the metal housing, the mirror itself, the cables (still attached to the
mirror and running through...), the housing stalk, and the position
control.  Make sure that the screw holes in the housing and stalk have not
rusted to the point where the circular hole has turned into this oblong
void that's good for absolutely nothing, not the least of which is hold
screws in place.  Also ensure that the assembly is tight, meaning that
there is no play in the cables because again, they're impossible to fix.

At 11:30 PM 12/13/98 , you wrote:
>Anyone have a mirror for a 1975 Olds Delta 88?
>
>Secondly, anyone know how to install one?
>  *Do I need the entire housing? Or just the mirror itself?
>  *What cable do I need to re-attach?
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 04:37:25 EST
From: GraphixRUs@aol.com
Subject: Re: Ford now has a 330ci engine

HEY GUYS  !!!!
  Now , anyone that ever owned an early Olds 330,  Knows that no one will ever
build another one like that.
  Forged crank in 1964   --!!!! -- whoever heard of that.
  I ran a garage in upstate n.y.  I had a 290 hp 4-speed  cutlass.   A friend
had a 327 ( over 300 ) hp chebby.  I dusted him. He swapped for a brane new
tri-poser  goat. I could still stay with him all of the way to top end. He
went to a street hemi. worst mistake he ever made. All of that money. I
simpally put a 68 400  ( 350 hp ) in my 64. I embarassed him even more. NOW -
the RACE  	HEMI was an awesom engine,but how many did yousee on the 
street.?
Look at the Olds W-43. About the year , but over 100 hp.  STREET engine.
Genersl Motors sometimes has there head on backwards. If they are so blamed
intent on making it a chebby  world --- go ahead & give them some Olds
engineering tips.   I'm not looking to start a flame war., but look at the
record. Olds has pretty much been the expermental div.  The  good auto
transmissions up to the Aurora engine. Not even the far east or europe can
come up with any thing so reliable for the amount of output, Then they go at &
put a 3.4 Chebby in the new Silhouette, which is in a race with something that
is the biggest seller since sliced  bread & other split things. NOW which way
are there heads turned. I rest my case.
P.S. I have 3- 64   442's ( to restore for my 3 grand sons). when I retire
next year.
 Yes Chris - I'm Back _ I jus had to make aan opening statement on here. A lot
of new faces.
  I promise it won't happen again.
   I'll keep it ALL OLDS.
  Roger Utter    OCA # 27353

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 04:43:00 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: Re: 8000 RPM 350

Been watching this thread and wondered if the different main bearing size
between an Olds & a Chevy SB is a factor in the high rev goal?

jp

Jonathan Parke
mailto:jonparke@together.net

'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
(near the end of a 5 year frame off customization)

'60 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spider Veloce
(completely in pieces, perfect body, long term restoration)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 07:17:50 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Olds in Movies

I remeber the black '70 LS5 Chevelle, '70 GTO Judge, '70 Chevy Pickup, '74
Duster and..uh...and......uhh, I guess I need to watch that one again soon.
Thanks for reminding me, I love that movie. 

Ed
The Omega Man

'74 Omega 455

- --------------------------------------




At 11:13 PM 12/11/98 -0600, you wrote:
>Since some of you seem so wise as to what cars were in movies,
>I got a question for y'all.
>
>  What cars WERE actually used in the movie 'Dazed and Confused'?
>
>I must have watched that movie no less than six times hoping to
>see mine, but only got close.  So which ones were used then?
>
>Mark MacDonald
>1975 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale Convertible
><http://home.earthlink.net/~greenmm>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 07:44:26 -0500
From: "Trey W Taufmann" <trey.taufmann@gfii.com>
Subject: (no subject)

UNSUBSCRIBE OLDSMOBILE

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 09:09:05 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: 75 Olds Delta 88 Mirror

In a message dated 12/14/98 0:30:30 AM EST, greenmm@earthlink.net writes:

<< Anyone have a mirror for a 1975 Olds Delta 88?
  >>
Which mirror are you talking about?  I've replaced both driver's and
passenger's side. Both take cables. Try your olds dealer first, then Fusick's,
Hemming's, or Old Cars. I  found one in Hemmings and the other at Hershy.
Pretty straight forward install. Both bolt from the inside door with two
screws. (and a plastic type gasket) On the driver's side, make sure to leave
enough room for the window to operate properly. (the cable will slip around
the window) On the passenger's side, the cable runs through the rubber thingie
between the door and the body, under the dash and exits beneath  the radio. I
forget exactly what I paid for each, but they were in the $25 to $50 range
used. 
Good luck,
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv. (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 09:14:31 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: 75 Olds Delta 88 Mirror

In a message dated 12/14/98 0:30:30 AM EST, greenmm@earthlink.net writes:

<< Anyone have a mirror for a 1975 Olds Delta 88? >>

Oh, almost forgot, the knob for both mirrors can be removed with an allen
wrench. This also allows for adjustment. (by twisting the cables slightly and
the tightening the allen screw, you can position the mirror  at the angle you
want.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv. (duals of course) 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 09:14:48 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Re: Ford now has a 330ci engine

Ford has a winner in this engine (the 5.4 liter, if I'm correct).

Talk about smooth. And powerful, too. I had a '97 F-150 with this engine.

Don't spit on one until AFTER you drive it. I'd wager to say that some of
our Olds friends would, for a split second, think about how one could be fit
into an Olds ;).

When Ford finally gets around to putting this engine in the Mustangs, look
out Z28s/TAs.

At 01:01 AM 12/14/98 EST, you wrote:
>I was reading the road test on the F-150, and I almost started crying when i
>saw this :
>Displacement..........330 cu in, 5410cc 
>Power (SAE net)..........260 bhp @ 4500 rpm 
>Torque (SAE net)..........345 lb-ft @ 2300 rpm 
>
>FORD COPIED OLDSMOBILE IN CUBIC INCHES! Thoes assholes! (sorry, im mad!) I
>will spit on the next ford i see
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 10:19:01 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 75 Olds Delta 88 Mirror

What I can't figure out is how the mirror was stolen in the first place
without trashing the door, the assembly or the cables... certainly I can't
see how anyone could steal it and still have it function for them.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 09:19:22 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Gapless Vs Hand gaped rings.

	To you long term racers out there. Have you used these Gapless rings in
your built Olds monsters? Do you have any opinion as to there performance
Vs. hand filed rings? Was there any perceivable increased cylinder wall wear
or anomalies contributable to these rings? How were final assembled CR
figures compared to the hand file rings CR? Were the static CR's more
consistent between all the cylinders respectively?

	For building Olds destined to be TP-EFI based and under turbo boost, 
these
Gapless rings seem better suited for the increased ring land pressures. Any
Opinions?

	A little while back I poised a question about Titanium valves. 
Majority of
responses were, Don't bother, go Stainless valves. My thought is that the
apx. 1/3 or so total valve weight savings, (in this boosted application),
will allow the valve springs less mass weight to close, (and maintain
unbouncing closed valve stature), the valves under 15 - 18lb's turbo boost.
These engines will be assembled with a rather mild 8:1 compression and when
not under boost, perceivably also benefit from a Gapless ring design for low
compression consistency control. Like wise, for the increased boosted
compression control. I'm hoping to develop a power band between 2,500 and
5,500 RPM with a target max spin of 6,000. I can see many benefits of these
rings.

	I can also see a possible draw back. Not having seen a set of these 
Gapless
ring, I assume they have an overlapping slip seal between the ring gap
faces. This top ring gap may, (under boost), receive, via pressurized
capillary action, a coating of partially burnt fuel charge. After many
engine on/off cycles of this ring slip seam being contaminated by secondary
fuel additives, this ring gap joint may freeze bonded. Hence removing the
rings ability to contract/expand to the cylinder walls slight dimensional
bore irregularities. Huummm, Thoughts?


- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
ICQ# 5209322
mailto:gjcouse@CC-IROC-SS.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
Send Project Questions To:
mailto:info@CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit < G.J.C > at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 06:26:58 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: '70 A/C Wiring

> I have noticed some A/C systems have a relay on the passenger side
> inner fender, and some don't. My car doesn't have the relay. Is
> there anything I need to know about this? My questions are...
> Should my 70 have the relay?

Not sure. I assume we're talking about the high-speed blower
bypass relay; it activates when the dashboard fan switch is
turned to HIGH, bypassing the resistor pack in the duct (which
provides the lower fan speeds) and diverting full current flow
to the blower motor. Basically it avoids running all that current
through the dashboard switch, which would result in a meltdown.

> If so, where can I buy one, and can anyone tell me what wires go
> where on the relay?

I imagine you could grab one from a junkyard. The 10-gauge input
comes off connections at the alternator, IIRC; the 10-gauge output
goes to the blower somehow; the smaller-gauge connections are feed
from the fan switch and a ground wire. But this a general answer
only; you _really_ need a wiring diagram here.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 09:30:45 -0500
From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: Re: Ford now has a 330ci engine

C. Casteel wrote:
> 
> Ford has a winner in this engine (the 5.4 liter, if I'm correct).
> 
> Talk about smooth. And powerful, too. I had a '97 F-150 with this engine.
> 
> Don't spit on one until AFTER you drive it. I'd wager to say that some of
> our Olds friends would, for a split second, think about how one could be fit
> into an Olds ;).
> 
> When Ford finally gets around to putting this engine in the Mustangs, look
> out Z28s/TAs.

	I not at liberty to say
         ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
               Mark Cornea (Dr. Decal)  OCA# 4903
                             1970 W30 (red)

                     <mailto:drdecal@wwnet.net>
                     <mailto:mcornea@ford.com>

                    Visit http://www.drdecal.com
        ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 07:14:12 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Olds in Movies

Yeah, I'm suffering from the same "brain fade".  Went to go rent it last
night and it was already checked out.  Guess what just went on my
wish list?

Mike B

>I remeber the black '70 LS5 Chevelle, '70 GTO Judge, '70 Chevy Pickup, '74
>Duster and..uh...and......uhh, I guess I need to watch that one again soon.
>Thanks for reminding me, I love that movie.
>
>>  What cars WERE actually used in the movie 'Dazed and Confused'?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 06:37:38 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: FARGO

- ---Ray Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com> wrote:
>
> 
> So,
> Anyone else see Fargo last night?  That movie's cool, especially all
the
> Oldses in it.  A nice 87 Supreme is in it, don't see much of it
though.
> Mostly a bunch of 88's, 98's and Cierra's.
- ------------------------------------------------------

*sigh* I hate to interupt the list like this, but I saw the movie when
it first came out. Still haven't seen the whole thing. I am from
Fargo, North Dakota. I know of all the areas where they shot that
movie. BUT, we do not talk like they have us talking! I don't know
where they got that accent from, but in my opinion, it makes us all
look stupid up here. Just PLEASE, don't judge Fargoan's because of
this movie! We do not talk like that "Don'tchya know eh?"

Del 
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 09:59:02 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: FARGO

>
>
> *sigh* I hate to interupt the list like this, but I saw the movie when
> it first came out. Still haven't seen the whole thing. I am from
> Fargo, North Dakota. I know of all the areas where they shot that
> movie. BUT, we do not talk like they have us talking! I don't know
> where they got that accent from, but in my opinion, it makes us all
> look stupid up here. Just PLEASE, don't judge Fargoan's because of
> this movie! We do not talk like that "Don'tchya know eh?"

> Del

<snip>

You betcha

Mark Hahn

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 09:27:22 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: Traction Bars on Delta

South Side Machine Lift Bars are a good alternative for coil spring cars, 
IMO. I don't know if they make any that would work on your Delta, but 
perhaps you could check 'em out.

roger 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 10:19:52 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: EGR and 455s

Igor,

EGR came out in '73.  If the cars you saw were actually '72 models, they
did
not have the original engines.
________

That's certainly true for 49-state cars, but didn't California phase in EGR
starting in 1972?  My failing memory vaguely recalls something like this,
but I certainly wouldn't put money on it.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
69 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 10:33:20 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: oil pumps and restrictors

Hi all,
I'm planning the rebuild of my W-31 motor and I'm seeking opinions on oil
pumps and whether oil restrictors are necessary.  Basically the car will be
driven on the street, but it will see time on the dragstrip.  Does anyone
think oil restrictors are necessary?  And what about oil pumps?  Stock
replacement?  Stock with high pressure spring?  I've been told not to run
the high volume pump unless you are going with a 6qt pan and I don't plan on
altering any visual aspects of the motor.  Meaning stock exhaust and intake
manifolds, stock oil pan, original rebuilt q-jet.  I've talked with Dick
Miller briefly and he suggested a stock oil pump and not to use restrictors
and I'm just wondering what other people think?

On a related note, a while back I decided to take apart some of the original
W-31 350 to see why it was burning oil so bad.  Off came the intake and I
noticed the pushrod on the #7 exhaust valve went through the top of the
lifter and there where a few parts of the lifter laying in the lifter
valley.  I then took off the driver valve cover and noticed the valve spring
on the #7 intake valve was busted.  So then off came the cylinder head.  I
found out I do have 455 valves in the head and I also still have the
original pistons in the block, they where all stamped on the top with an
'A'.  So now I have my smoking gun so to speak.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 10:36:27 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 68 442 convert found?

By looking in my Authentic restoration guide to olds 442 and w-machines
guid says the 33667 means cutlass? How many cutlass converts were made?
Thanks for the help.
_________

It has been well documented that on the 68-69 cars, all 442s carried body
data plates with Cutlass numbers, so don't worry about it.  You need to go
by the VIN to prove it's a 442.  The VIN for a 68 442 convert must start
out 344678..., otherwise it's not legit.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 09:53:29 -0600
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: Re: Pontmobile Question/SUPERCARS BEARING

Onebil2mny@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I have a 79 Pontmobile....   79 Trans Am with a 403.   I noticed in my
> Supercars Unlimited catalog that they have pilot berring adapter for 
automatic
> cranks.  Soooo.....     I got to thinking about M-20 I have in the attic, and
> the clutch pedal asembly I have, and the 4-speed console I have....  you get
> the drift.   The question I have is, what flywheel will I need for the 403?
> Will any B.O.P. bell housing work, or do I need one specificly from an Olds?
> Also, is there a threaded bung for the little ball that the clutch cross 
shaft
> attaches to on an olds block, or did olds attahc it to the bell housing?
> 
> Thanks for the help!
> Bill K


Any BOP will do.  I believe you need a late ('68 and up) model
flywheel(anyone please correct me if I'm wrong).  The Olds cross shaft
does attach to the block.

  If you do this in the near future, please let me know how the pilot
bearing adapter works out.  I'll be doing the same thing to a 425 going
in my '65 442 4-spd. this spring/summer.  I would'nt mind getting the
crank drilled as it is out of the car, but I do not know of anyone I'd
trust to do it in the Chicago area.


  Personally, I'd love to hear from Greg Rollin on the installation and
performance of this bearing(or from anyone who may have used it.)


 Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 08:04:35 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Polyurethane Bushings

Has anyone ever ordered from Kanter? (At least I think that is their
name.) I am looking for someplace that sells the polyurethane
bushings. I know that Kanter does and Paddock does. Kanter has the
whole front kit. Is there anyone else that sells them? I want to find
a whole kit if I could for front and rear. Balljoints, tierods,
control arms, etc. Also, where can I find a larger sway bar for the
front of my Cutlass? Can I put the biggest sway bar I can find on
there or should I stick with the stock size? Is there someone who
sells a rear sway bar kit that includes instructions as to where I
will have to drill and or weld for the brackets? I still have gotten
no word on my question on my 'O' type rearend. Will I be able to find
a gearing around a 3.40ish and a posi unit for it or will I have to
look into getting a different rearend? Lots of questions, but I had
time to think this weekend. :-) 

Thanks,
Del 




==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 10:10:37 -0600
From: <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: Polyurethane Bushings

Rock Man wrote:
> 
> Has anyone ever ordered from Kanter? (At least I think that is their
> name.) I am looking for someplace that sells the polyurethane
> bushings. I know that Kanter does and Paddock does. Kanter has the
> whole front kit. Is there anyone else that sells them? I want to find
> a whole kit if I could for front and rear. Balljoints, tierods,
> control arms, etc. Also, where can I find a larger sway bar for the
> front of my Cutlass? Can I put the biggest sway bar I can find on
> there or should I stick with the stock size? Is there someone who
> sells a rear sway bar kit that includes instructions as to where I
> will have to drill and or weld for the brackets? I still have gotten
> no word on my question on my 'O' type rearend. Will I be able to find
> a gearing around a 3.40ish and a posi unit for it or will I have to
> look into getting a different rearend? Lots of questions, but I had
> time to think this weekend. :-)
> 
> Thanks,
> Del
> 

I would recommend Peformance Suspension Technology, as they have their
special polygraphite bushings. They are self-lubricated polyurethane
bushings that don't squeak. They offer front and rear sway bar kits with
directions - although you shouldn't need to drill anything for the rear
sway bar, they holes should already be there.

3.42's are available from Richmond Gear, however having done research
about a year ago, there was no posi unit available in the aftermarket
for the "O" axle. The 10-bolt GM "Corporate" 8.5" is still fairly
available, is MUCH cheaper and in IMHO is much stronger than the "O"
axle.


Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

www-p-s-t.co, for Performance Suspension Technology
.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 10:18:43 -0600
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: Re: Polyurethane Bushings

Rock Man wrote:
> 
> Has anyone ever ordered from Kanter? (At least I think that is their
> name.) I am looking for someplace that sells the polyurethane
> bushings. I know that Kanter does and Paddock does. Kanter has the
> whole front kit. Is there anyone else that sells them? I want to find
> a whole kit if I could for front and rear. Balljoints, tierods,
> control arms, etc. Also, where can I find a larger sway bar for the
> front of my Cutlass? Can I put the biggest sway bar I can find on
> there or should I stick with the stock size? Is there someone who
> sells a rear sway bar kit that includes instructions as to where I
> will have to drill and or weld for the brackets? I still have gotten
> no word on my question on my 'O' type rearend. Will I be able to find
> a gearing around a 3.40ish and a posi unit for it or will I have to
> look into getting a different rearend? Lots of questions, but I had
> time to think this weekend. :-)
> 
> Thanks,
> Del
> 
> ==
> Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> rockman20@yahoo.com
> 1986 Honda Accord DX
> 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
> 1981 John Deer Snowmobile
> 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
> 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com



Try "The Parts Place" in Illinois and do a web search (use
www.askjeeves.com, works great) on Prothane polyurethane bushings.  Year
One also sells urethane bushings as do JEGS and Summitt(all of which are
on the web).  Don't know TPP's phone number, it also may be found on the
web.  I believe they are in Batavia, IL.  Good Luck.  Also, Prothane
parts are available through JC Whittney Co. Also out of Chicago.


 Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:22:34 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: Polyurethane Bushings

> Has anyone ever ordered from Kanter? (At least I think that is their
Yes.
> whole front kit. Is there anyone else that sells them? I want to find
<snip> of items that Performance Suspension Technology carries, I believe
http://www.p-s-t.com    I've ordered a complete front end kit from them for
my GTO, but in original rubber, and they threw in for free a How to Rebuild
Your Front-end video.  I'm very satisfied with it and the video gave me
ideas on how to rebuild the front end myself, so I did.  Not really that
hard.

> will have to drill and or weld for the brackets? I still have gotten
> no word on my question on my 'O' type rearend. Will I be able to find
> a gearing around a 3.40ish and a posi unit for it or will I have to
> look into getting a different rearend? Lots of questions, but I had
I'm not 100% sure but I believe 'O' rear end ratios from the factory are
3:91, 4:33, 4:66 and 5:00.  There may be a 3:42.  If there is then you have
your answer, but I don't think anyone makes new ring and pinions for these
yet, so you'd have to find a used set.  Does anyone make new ring and
pinions for 'O' rear ends?

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 10:29:06 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: best place to buy battery sheet metal

Hi Guys, 

After buying new battery tray I found out that the whole corner under where 
the battery goes is pretty much eaten thru. Can one get replacement sheet 
metal for that left front corner and where is the best place to shop for 
that?

Thanks, George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: 14 Dec 98 08:47:57 PST
From: bruce suess <restoman@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: 70-72 W-30 Hood Stripes]

oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:
> I was wondering if anyone has a trick to painting the ram-air hood stripes
> on a 70-72 442. I know the dimensions but the problem I am having is in the
> front making the stripe curves round. A stencil kit or an outline would
> make it easier. Anyone???
> 
Stencils and Stripes has a stencil kit.  708-692-6093
Mike Rothe


>Use 3-M "fine line" masking tape in 1/8 for the corners
I just did the stripes on my 70 442 convrt. In base-clear
and there sooo perfect.You will be real disapointed 
with stencil results.

restoman.

____________________________________________________________________
More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://home.netscape.com/netcenter/mail

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:59:47 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: FARGO

Rock Man wrote:
> 
> 
> *sigh* I hate to interupt the list like this, but I saw the movie when
> it first came out. Still haven't seen the whole thing. I am from
> Fargo, North Dakota. I know of all the areas where they shot that
> movie. BUT, we do not talk like they have us talking! I don't know
> where they got that accent from, but in my opinion, it makes us all
> look stupid up here. Just PLEASE, don't judge Fargoan's because of
> this movie! We do not talk like that "Don'tchya know eh?"

*shudder* That's the part of the movie that disturbed me the most. About
1/2 hour of that dialogue and i was beating my head in. All that
"Yaaaa." and "Aaaaye."

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***************************
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 V-8 4 bbl)
1975 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (250 I-6 1 bbl)
1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (350 V-8 2 bbl)
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4 bbl)
*******************************************
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:47:06 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: best place to buy battery sheet metal

...the whole corner under where
the battery goes is pretty much eaten thru. Can one get replacement sheet
metal for that left front corner and where is the best place to shop for
that?
___________

Bad news, George.  It sounds like what you're describing is the radiator
core support.  This is a common rustout problem due to battery acid.  While
a patch panel is available for the 70-72 cars, no such item can be had for
the earlier cars.  Your only option is to find a solid used part and swap
it out.  The core support, of course, is the panel to which mount the
headlights and grille as well as the radiator and the forward ends of the
front fenders, so major disassembly of the front end is required to change
out this part.

Good luck

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:57:07 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: 8000 RPM 350

In a message dated 98-12-13 13:11:27 EST, you write:

<< Yeah, move the band up and use 4.10 gears and a small converter in a light
 car.  I am just curious if olds motors would go up that high.  I have heard
 of many and seen some Chevy motors that rev. up to 6500+.  I am just
 wondering if Olds could do it as well. >>

OK, airflow is always key.

So;

1) Bigger carb (maybe) especially if gonna get blown.
2) bigger manifold: Performer RPM is listed in the JEG's that has the fake
Victor Jr in it. It peaks in a higher RPM range than the Performer intake and
costs less than the Performer intake for big blocks.
3) port heads.
4) Headers with 2" or larger primaries. As I recall, 1&3/4" peaks torque curve
at approx 3K with 1&7/8" somewhat higher.
5) Dual Exh would be better, but your circumstances may prohibit unless race
only.

Oiling mods not particularly unless you intend to spend HOURS at 8K RPM....

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 12:00:28 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: [Re: 70-72 W-30 Hood Stripes]

I have a question on this. If it was covered, I missed it, sorry, but..
When you paint on the stripes, should you paint the hood the stripe color,
mask the stripes of, then spray the hood color? Or just the opposite, spray
hood then paint stripes on top of that. I know it can be done either way,
but which produces the best results? and is easier? I should have my body
work all done by March and this spring I become a painter. Wish me luck.

Ed 
The Omega Man

'74 Omega 455







>
>>Use 3-M "fine line" masking tape in 1/8 for the corners
>I just did the stripes on my 70 442 convrt. In base-clear
>and there sooo perfect.You will be real disapointed 
>with stencil results.
>
>restoman.
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at
http://home.netscape.com/netcenter/mail
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 10:56:51 -0600
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: Arizona Junkyards

I'l be in the Phoenix area for about two weeks this month.  Does
anyone know of any good old car bone yards in the area.  There are afew
small parts I'll be looking for for my '65.  Thanks.


Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:00:29 -0600
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: crankshaft drilling/adaptor bearing

One more time.  Does anyone know of a good machine shop in the Chicago
area that would accurately drill a pilot bearing input in my 425 crank?

If not, does anyone have any experience with the adaptor bearing?

The engine is going in this spring/summer, so I'll be casually putting
it back together during the first 3-4 months of '99.


Thanks.


Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 12:03:09 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: car prob?? was Re: Kane County, IL show & swap & car prob??

In a message dated 98-09-16 13:00:06 EDT, you write:

Yah. Late reply.

[pot metal flaking....]
What about a float bowl coating of something inert to gas?
Like Plasti-cote

<< Can't do that Karl.  The crap in the float bowl (if it doesn't come from
the
 gas tank itself) is from fuel evaporating in the bowl itself.  It has nothing
 to do with the gas somehow "mixing" or interacting with the material inside
 the float bowl.  And the "plasti-cote" will do the same as Jason's paint job,
 but now since it is actually in the float bowl, the results will most likely
 be worse. >>

Tend to agree now.
Saw my float bowl during recent rebuild and also shortly after, with just carb
top off and fuel in bowl (i.e. I shoulda left the float adjustments alone, did
it right two years ago!) and float bowl was VERY clean.

[A good reason to either drain fuel or start a motor periodically: remove
solvemt and contaminants, or "flush" out bad stuff....]

And much as I guessed at the beginning of the escapade, the Q-Jet page thing
(did I mention? You musta seen it in a digest..) is driving me bats! I gotta
draft a letter to a guy at Weber USA (aka Weber Carbs, aka Magnetti Marelli of
Italy) who now have some claim to Q-Jet rights.....

Mebbe I will just call the GM Legal department daily and continue to leave
messages until they provide some response!

Yeh. I think it is a bad idea too.

Thinking of trying the Teklit (sp) company who seems to print most exploded
diagrams for Borg-Warner and Hygrade (Service Electronics) Carb kits I have
used...

Willing to try anything now.... if only part # "9X" were still
available.......

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 12:03:05 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: What Happened with this? was: [Year One] Discounts Revisited...

Did Karl miss something?

Whatever happened to.....

<< To recap our last episode ;-) I have a contact and am working towards
 getting a club discount for members of the Oldsmobile Mailing List with
 Year One.  For those who don't know of them, Year One sells for the most
 part reproductions and some NOS parts for more than just Oldsmobiles. >>

Clayton???

Tell me you did not roll Lucille!

Hello?

(Coulda used a dicount a week and a half ago!)

SOM

&KA
(temporarily alcohol deficient)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 12:07:39 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: oil pumps and restrictors

I would go for a stock pump.  High pressure / volume pumps are more trouble
than they are worth to me (excess oil pressure in cold weather, oil leaks,
and the possibility of sucking the pan dry at high rpm).   If I decided to
restrict oil flow to the top end, I would do so by slightly rotating the cam
bearings or using a set of the modified cam bearings with smaller oil holes.
I do not like the restrictors in the block as they reduce oil flow to the
cam bearings as well as the rest of the top  end, sometimes with unhealthy
consequences.  Pay attention to the drainback provisions from the top end.
Anything you can do to enhance drainback is a step in the right direction.
Poor oil return is the one real weak point on the Olds oil system.

Regards,
Fred

- -----Original Message-----
From: Semantana Chris (ONEX) <SemantanaC@tce.com>
To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, December 14, 1998 10:34 AM
Subject: oil pumps and restrictors


>Hi all,
>I'm planning the rebuild of my W-31 motor and I'm seeking opinions on oil
>pumps and whether oil restrictors are necessary.  Basically the car will be
>driven on the street, but it will see time on the dragstrip.  Does anyone
>think oil restrictors are necessary?  And what about oil pumps?  Stock
>replacement?  Stock with high pressure spring?  I've been told not to run
>the high volume pump unless you are going with a 6qt pan and I don't plan
on
>altering any visual aspects of the motor.  Meaning stock exhaust and intake
>manifolds, stock oil pan, original rebuilt q-jet.  I've talked with Dick
>Miller briefly and he suggested a stock oil pump and not to use restrictors
>and I'm just wondering what other people think?
>
>On a related note, a while back I decided to take apart some of the
original
>W-31 350 to see why it was burning oil so bad.  Off came the intake and I
>noticed the pushrod on the #7 exhaust valve went through the top of the
>lifter and there where a few parts of the lifter laying in the lifter
>valley.  I then took off the driver valve cover and noticed the valve
spring
>on the #7 intake valve was busted.  So then off came the cylinder head.  I
>found out I do have 455 valves in the head and I also still have the
>original pistons in the block, they where all stamped on the top with an
>'A'.  So now I have my smoking gun so to speak.
>
>Chris Smetana
>Terre Haute, IN
>http://www.abcs.com/chris
>
>1969 W-31
>1969 4-4-2 parts car
>plus others
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:05:57 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: best place to buy battery sheet metal

Joe, 

The place it is rusted out is basically just around the battery tray. I 
think this is not what you mean with radiator support, is it?

The "drawing" underneath shows the car top view. The front is up. ++++ is 
the grille. **** is the rusty part while the battery tray is shown in {}. 

Still bad luck?

Regards, George


_______________++++++++++++++________________
|  *********
|   *******
| {---------}
| { BATTERY }
| {---------}
|
|
|




- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

On Mon, 14 Dec 1998 Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:

> ...the whole corner under where
> the battery goes is pretty much eaten thru. Can one get replacement sheet
> metal for that left front corner and where is the best place to shop for
> that?
> ___________
> 
> Bad news, George.  It sounds like what you're describing is the radiator
> core support.  This is a common rustout problem due to battery acid.  While
> a patch panel is available for the 70-72 cars, no such item can be had for
> the earlier cars.  Your only option is to find a solid used part and swap
> it out.  The core support, of course, is the panel to which mount the
> headlights and grille as well as the radiator and the forward ends of the
> front fenders, so major disassembly of the front end is required to change
> out this part.
> 
> Good luck
> 
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
> 
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 69 442
> 70 W-30
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 12:08:09 EST
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: 700R4 tranny w/not shift to 3rd @WOT

This is driving me crazy. It is a 87 tranny only at WOT it will not shift to
third. It does not matter if i leave it in drive, overdrive,or manually shift
it up. The only way it shifts is if i let my foot off the gas rpms drop then
it shifts, sometimes i have to pump it 2x's. During normal driving it shifts
fine. This is killing my times at the track :(. I have adjusted the TV cable
to the stock specs and also moved it everywhich way.

------------------------------

Date: 14 Dec 98 09:12:11 PST
From: bruce suess <restoman@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: [Re: 70-72 W-30 Hood Stripes]]

oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:
I have a question on this. If it was covered, I missed it, sorry, but..
When you paint on the stripes, should you paint the hood the stripe color,
mask the stripes of, then spray the hood color? Or just the opposite, spray
hood then paint stripes on top of that. I know it can be done either way,
but which produces the best results? and is easier? I should have my body
work all done by March and this spring I become a painter. Wish me luck.

Ed 
The Omega Man

'74 Omega 455

>Hood first,  let it cure, then the stripes. the only
right way to do it.I am painter by trade.

restoman








>
>>Use 3-M "fine line" masking tape in 1/8 for the corners
>I just did the stripes on my 70 442 convrt. In base-clear
>and there sooo perfect.You will be real disapointed 
>with stencil results.
>
>restoman.
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at
http://home.netscape.com/netcenter/mail
>
>


____________________________________________________________________
More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://home.netscape.com/netcenter/mail

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:08:06 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: What Happened with this? was: [Year One] Discounts Revisited...

Yepp, I wondered too, what happened???

Well, just wanted to let you all know: They have a chrismas rebate of 10%
at year one. Go to their homepage www.yearone.com to see details. (You 
must refer to a number when ordering to get the discount.) Orders over 
$800 will give another 5%. 

So long, George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

On Mon, 14 Dec 1998 KarlAune@aol.com wrote:

> Did Karl miss something?
> 
> Whatever happened to.....
> 
> << To recap our last episode ;-) I have a contact and am working towards
>  getting a club discount for members of the Oldsmobile Mailing List with
>  Year One.  For those who don't know of them, Year One sells for the most
>  part reproductions and some NOS parts for more than just Oldsmobiles. >>
> 
> Clayton???
> 
> Tell me you did not roll Lucille!
> 
> Hello?
> 
> (Coulda used a dicount a week and a half ago!)
> 
> SOM
> 
> &KA
> (temporarily alcohol deficient)
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 12:47:42 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: [Re: 70-72 W-30 Hood Stripes]

Gene wrote:
<Snip

When you paint on the stripes, should you paint the hood the stripe color,
mask the stripes of, then spray the hood color? Or just the opposite, spray
hood then paint stripes on top of that.

<GJC>

I believe I would paint the hood color first than the strips. If you paint
the hood stripe color first, you risk possibly changing the final color hue
of the hood/car color Vs. the actual car's color on the fender

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
ICQ# 5209322
mailto:gjcouse@CC-IROC-SS.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
Send Project Questions To:
mailto:info@CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit < G.J.C > at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 12:52:58 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: crankshaft drilling/adaptor bearing

> If not, does anyone have any experience with the adaptor bearing?
> 
I believe Dave Wyatt talked with either Dick Miller or Greg Rollin or both
about this since he's running a drilled auto crank and plans on using this
bearing on the next motor rebuild.  This discussion several months back led
to the measuring of input shafts on the different variations of Munices if I
also remember correctly.  Dave, buddy, do you still have the info on this?
From what I remember it sounded like a good solution to drilling an auto
crank and hoping it was drilled exactly in the center.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 13:00:30 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: best place to buy battery sheet metal

The place it is rusted out is basically just around the battery tray. I
think this is not what you mean with radiator support, is it?
_________

I'm afraid it is.  The core support is one piece (actually several pieces
welded together) that runs completely across the front of the car from
fender to fender.  There is a central opening where the radiator sits, and
a panel on either side of the radiator that holds the headlights and
bezels.  These panels run vertically then fold down under the battery
location.  If this panel is what's rusted out, it's part of the core
support.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 13:03:10 -0500
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: PF-31 ???

List,

                Any opinions on using the AMC oil filter
on Oldsmobile Engines.....PF-31 ???



The General

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Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 13:19:25 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: best place to buy battery sheet metal

> I'm afraid it is.  The core support is one piece (actually several pieces
> welded together) that runs completely across the front of the car from
> fender to fender.  There is a central opening where the radiator sits, and
> a panel on either side of the radiator that holds the headlights and
> bezels.  These panels run vertically then fold down under the battery
> location.  If this panel is what's rusted out, it's part of the core
> support.
> 
Yes, speaking from experience, the battery tray bolts to the core support.
I had to replace the core support in my 71 Skylark and it was a chore.  I
now realize that if you don't want to chip off any paint from your newly
painted core support you should loosen or remove the front fenders, but if
you don't care about concours quality work, then the core support should
slide right in albeit tightly.  Incidentally, I bought the used core support
for $145.
George, check that assembly manual and make sure it is indeed the core
support.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 13:24:25 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: RE: crankshaft drilling/adaptor bearing

This might sound like a stupid question, but what is this adapter pilot
bearing you guys are talking about?  Do you mean you can run a 4spd on an
Olds with an automatic crank without drilling? How does it go on? Where can
I get one? How much?

Ed
The Omega Man

'74 Omega 455/4spd





At 12:52 PM 12/14/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
>> If not, does anyone have any experience with the adaptor bearing?
>> 
>I believe Dave Wyatt talked with either Dick Miller or Greg Rollin or both
>about this since he's running a drilled auto crank and plans on using this
>bearing on the next motor rebuild.  This discussion several months back led
>to the measuring of input shafts on the different variations of Munices if I
>also remember correctly.  Dave, buddy, do you still have the info on this?
>>From what I remember it sounded like a good solution to drilling an auto
>crank and hoping it was drilled exactly in the center.
>
>Chris Smetana
>Terre Haute, IN
>http://www.abcs.com/chris
>
>1969 W-31
>1969 4-4-2 parts car
>plus others
>
>

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1664
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