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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1644


oldsmobile-digest     Saturday, December 5 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1644



Re: 69 Hurst Olds Carbs.
Re: Value of '85 Olds (timing chain?)
Re: Two Lane Blacktop
307 Timing Chain
Re: Two Lane Blacktop
Re: Two Lane Blacktop
Re: Two Lane Blacktop
Re: I'm finally back on the list
Timing Chain 
Re: F-85 Omega?
G-body Rallye Gauges (was Re: I'm finally back on the list)
Re: Rear End Transfer
RE: I'm finally back on the list
RE: G-body Rallye Gauges (was Re: I'm finally back on the list)
Re: Two Lane Blacktop
Re: Value of '85 Olds (timing chain?)
Re: I'm finally back on the list
Q-Jet CFM was: 69 Hurst Olds Carbs.
Date:	Sat, 5 Dec 1998 19:00:59 +0800 
HEI Conversion Completed
Re: Two Lane Blacktop
Re: Lightning Rod Shifter
Re: Bumper Reconditioning
Re: Two Lane Blacktop
Re: F-85 Omega?
Re: Bumper Reconditioning
'70 C/S for sal on ebay
Re: Smog legal 350
Re: Poor idle/ Manifold deposit buildup
Re: how do you get adhesive off vinyl top?
Re: Lightning Rod Shifter
77 - 442 part out.
Re: Value of '85 Olds
Re: Lightning Rod Shifter
Re: F-85 Omega?
Re: Lightning Rod Shifter
Re: how do you get stickers off?
RE: Rechroming
unsubscribe
Re: Rear End Transfer
Re: HEI Conversion Completed
Re: Timing Chain
Re: Master cylinder swap  '66 F-85
Re: Olds quotes and crashing cars, etc.
Wondering if i got a good price
Re: Value of '85 Olds (timing chain?)
Re: Timing Chain 
Re: Wondering if i got a good price
Re: 307 Timing Chain
RE: Olds quotes and crashing cars, etc.
Info. regarding model/reproduction toy cars(post war 1940  series) (fwd)
Re: Olds quotes and crashing cars, etc.
Re: Rechroming
Re: Lightning Rod Shifter
Re: Rechroming
Re: Small Block update?
Re: Timing Chain
Electronic odometer reads "error"
Bumpers
Possible Hot-Air Choke Sealant
Re: HEI Conversion Completed

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 20:10:36 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: 69 Hurst Olds Carbs.

- -------

Mike Rothe. wrote:

> These carbs DO exist, which now I
> know of at least one, anyway.  My concern was with what was "correct"
> for the 69 H/O, whether the 70 should be there or not.  I'm a
> fact-finding sonofagun when it comes to this unique version of
> Oldsmobile.




Mike,
As one who shares the same affliction for esoteric facts,
I did some further digging.  I went through our carb cores
and found one of the 29251's (no "70").  It is date coded
0649.  Assembly plant code RJ.  I then dug through my old 
notes from compiling information for 4-4-2 By The Numbers.  
One of the cars I had used to confirm the codes for 
the 1969 Hurst/Olds was from a very original local car.  
It's carb is: 29251 RJ 0939.  (No "70").
This car was built in the second week of April.

Hope this helps your mission.
I'd be very interested in any further findings.
 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249

Web site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com
- -------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 23:34:11 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Re: Value of '85 Olds (timing chain?)

Just wondering about this. My 307 certainly doesn't seem to have quite the
power it did back in the '80s. Would it be a good idea to change out the
timin chain? 

Car has 100k and drives fine. One of those 'if it aint broke ...' dilemmas.
I mean if I were to go ahead and change it, would the risk of other problems
increase? You know, a domino effect.

TIA.

>He did mention that acceleration was sluggish. Maybe a symptom of stretched
>timing chain? Do these things break catastrophically? This car has to go 1000
>miles on its "shakedown", but thereafter will lead a rather sedentary life.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 23:37:56 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: Two Lane Blacktop

That would be great!  I know that as much as I want to see this movie,
something will happen on the one time a year that I may catch it on TV
and I will miss it.
Brian.

OLDS44272@aol.com wrote:
> 
>              If you have the  " Speedvision " channel, they have that on 
there
> a few times a year durnig thier late night " Lost Driven-in " sat. night
> movie. I have a copy of it, i'll see if i can get a hold of another VCR to
> tape it, and if i can, i'll even remove the commercial. I'll add the
> commercial at the end....just promise to watch them...(yeah 
right).......SCOTT

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 23:35:16 -0500
From: "Bill B." <Pianotuner@fastservice.com>
Subject: 307 Timing Chain

The 307 in my 87 Custom Cruiser just turned over 168K.  I drive the car
110 miles daily to and from work.  My dad bought the car new in 87
($17,000 sticker) and I got it with 113K miles.  It has the original
timing chain.  I was planning on changing the timing chain last summer,
and I am probably on borrowed time.  What is the worst-case scenario if
the chains lets go?  Will it tag the valves as did my wife's 88 Calais
when it had 70K on the 3.0 litre Buick engine?

Bill Bussell

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 23:42:39 EST
From: Sprotten25@aol.com
Subject: Re: Two Lane Blacktop

thanks i'll look in to it

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 23:46:20 EST
From: Sprotten25@aol.com
Subject: Re: Two Lane Blacktop

just caught BULLET not much of a movie but it had a 71-72 convertable
(cutlass)

Dino

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Dec 1998 23:55:47 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: Two Lane Blacktop

HOT ROD still sounds like a great movie.  It does have a 442 after
all....
Brian


RPTW32@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 12/4/98 2:12:14 PM Eastern Standard Time, 
cshankle@home.com
> writes:
> 
> << Not much Olds talk here, but Gene mentioned the movie Two Lane Blacktop
>  in a recent post.  I have been looking for that movie forever, and since
>  it was made before I was, I have never seen it.  All the gearheads seem
>  to love it though, and I am sure I would be no exception.  Any help on
>  finding a copy of this would be greatly appreciated.
>  Brian. >>
> 
> Brian,
>  Better yet is a movie called HOT ROD. Lot's of street and street racing. Bad
> boy in movie has 68 442 that starts out as street car and by end of movie has
> blower and dual quads . Paint job on car is definately out of the late 60's
> early 70's but that was also before your time it sounds like. (Had to be 
there
> during the era to appreciate)
> 
> Rgds,
> RobThomas
> 69 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 00:03:54 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: I'm finally back on the list

Gauge cluster?  As in Rallye Gauges?  Do I smell something I would be
interested in buying?  I think so!  If you do indeed get another cluster
and want out from under that one, let me know.  I will be more than
happy to help you get rid of it :-)...
Brian.

Ray Costanzo wrote:
> 
> Welcome back Bill!
> 
> Hey, you sold me a guage cluster for my 87, and it still isn't in!  Ahhh!
> But I'm getting another one without OD indication anyway...
> Maybe I'll put it in for fun this weekend since it's like 70 degrees in PA.
> 
> Anyway, welcome back.
> 
> Ray Costanzo
> 87 409 Cutlass
> Bucks County, PA
> costanzo@netcarrier.com
> http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo
> 
> NOT IN THE DESERT

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Dec 1998 23:07:25 -0500
From: "person" <vbdeveloper@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Timing Chain 

Hello all,
    I think the time for a new chain has come. Considering what my mechanic
quoted me for the job(I can not even repeat what he said...), I want to
change the chain myself. How big a job would that be? What pitfalls should I
look out for? What timing chain kit to buy? Where? What other parts should
be changed while I am in there? A lot of questions......


                                      =
                                           =
                                                =
==================================
'69 Olds Ninety-Eight Topless Bubba======
====666=================999============
        666                                  999

VBDeveloepr@worldnet.att.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 00:25:55 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: F-85 Omega?

Thomas (and interested list members),

Sorry for not replying sooner, it's been hard to keep up with all the e-mail
and do as much work around here on the house as I've been doing lately.

As for the Omega/Nova comparison, I've just personally found (my mother worked
for Oldsmobile here in Kansas City, Kansas from 1974 to 1990) that it seemed
like the Omegas had more luxury items that most Novas, like better trim
appointments and interior refinements.  There was even an Omega Salon one
year, think it was sometime between 73 and 75, but not for sure.  But that's
also due to the fact that when the Omega came out the major performance days
at GM in general were all but over and they had to have another selling point,
styling was one of those and luxury (even in a "budget" priced car, as all the
X-bodies were considered back then) was another.  Now I know there were some
luxury-minded Novas and also some bare-bones Omegas out there, but it seemed
that the Omega was typically more of a lower-priced luxury model than the
Nova.

The Nova I had was one of those real low-budget models, a 1970 with the 235
L-6, manual brakes and not even a place on the dash (an opening) for a radio.
Talk about a budget-minded car.............

Again, just MY opinion, and I could be wrong (happens often!)

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 23:37:31 -0600
From: "Mark Tupper" <mtupper@palacenet.net>
Subject: G-body Rallye Gauges (was Re: I'm finally back on the list)

>Gauge cluster?  As in Rallye Gauges?  Do I smell something I would be
>interested in buying?  I think so!  If you do indeed get another cluster
>and want out from under that one, let me know.  I will be more than
>happy to help you get rid of it :-)...


Hey Brian,

If you're looking for Rallye Gauges (G-body), you should probably email John
McJunkin...he likes to collect them. :-)

He's in digest, so you might want to get hold of him at super442@yahoo.com

Tell him that Karl...uh, Mark sent you. ;-)

- -Mark Tupper     1987 442    (OCA 30666)
mtupper@palacenet.net     http://cyberglyphs.com/442/
Olds G-Body Mailing List    http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 22:04:33 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Rear End Transfer

At 08:46 PM 12/4/98 +0000, you wrote:
>I was wondering, what kind of vehicle would I be able to get a rear end
>to work on my car.  It is a 66 F-85.  I was just wondering so that could
>find one in a junkyard.  Any help would be great thanks.
>

good luck. :)
I've been trying to find out for about a month.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 01:09:39 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: I'm finally back on the list

[HAD TO REPLY TO LIST, SORRY!]

I'll keep you in mind.  I'm supposedly going to buy a Salon off a guy my
brother works with, so hopefully...

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Brian Shankle
Sent: Friday, December 04, 1998 12:04 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: I'm finally back on the list


Gauge cluster?  As in Rallye Gauges?  Do I smell something I would be
interested in buying?  I think so!  If you do indeed get another cluster
and want out from under that one, let me know.  I will be more than
happy to help you get rid of it :-)...
Brian.

Ray Costanzo wrote:
>
> Welcome back Bill!
>
> Hey, you sold me a guage cluster for my 87, and it still isn't in!  Ahhh!
> But I'm getting another one without OD indication anyway...
> Maybe I'll put it in for fun this weekend since it's like 70 degrees in
PA.
>
> Anyway, welcome back.
>
> Ray Costanzo
> 87 409 Cutlass
> Bucks County, PA
> costanzo@netcarrier.com
> http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo
>
> NOT IN THE DESERT

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 01:10:56 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: G-body Rallye Gauges (was Re: I'm finally back on the list)

Hey Tupper, mind your own business!

JUST KIDDING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 8^]

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Mark Tupper
Sent: Saturday, December 05, 1998 12:38 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: G-body Rallye Gauges (was Re: I'm finally back on the list)


>Gauge cluster?  As in Rallye Gauges?  Do I smell something I would be
>interested in buying?  I think so!  If you do indeed get another cluster
>and want out from under that one, let me know.  I will be more than
>happy to help you get rid of it :-)...


Hey Brian,

If you're looking for Rallye Gauges (G-body), you should probably email John
McJunkin...he likes to collect them. :-)

He's in digest, so you might want to get hold of him at super442@yahoo.com

Tell him that Karl...uh, Mark sent you. ;-)

- -Mark Tupper     1987 442    (OCA 30666)
mtupper@palacenet.net     http://cyberglyphs.com/442/
Olds G-Body Mailing List    http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 02:45:52 EST
From: DrkSole96@aol.com
Subject: Re: Two Lane Blacktop

Two Lane Blacktop is available from On the Edge Video; www.otevideo.com, 
425-672-1745 for $20.  That's where I got my copy.

DrkSole
73 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 01:47:59 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Value of '85 Olds (timing chain?)

>You know, a domino effect.

On V8 Olds engines of that era, the first thing to let go was usually a
timing chain.  The material that the gears were made of was not the
greatest.  I would change the chain if I were you (mine gave on the 307,
high high miles).  If the motor is in good shape, changing the timing chain
will ensure it does not leave you stranded on the road, and it will in
effect allow your engine to wear out.  Think of it this way:  say that your
motor components (such as bearings, rings, valves,etc..) are only 50 or 60 %
worn.  If your chain were to go and you decide to junk the car, you waste
the other useful 20 or 25% motor life.  Change the chain and drive it 'till
the motor is really tired.  Then, give it a nice paint job, put good tires
and wheels on (like 255/60/15s front and 275/60/15 rear), tint the windows,
drop in a 455, dual exhaust and 4.10 posi and you will have a original,
great cruiser.  Well, just change the chain for now.  Igor.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 02:17:51 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: I'm finally back on the list

Bill Reilly wrote:
> Well, after a few month hiatus from the list, I'm finally back.  

Hey, cool!   Welcome back, Bill!  Have you seen our G-body list page yet? 
(Well, I guess I'll probably be able to answer that myself before you see this,
but I ask anyway ;)

Welcome Back!!!  :)

- -- 

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 05:15:00 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Q-Jet CFM was: 69 Hurst Olds Carbs.

Previously:

<< What is the CFM rating on this carb?>>
  
>Rochester QJ's, number 7029251.
 >> 29251. 
 >The 7029251 was also used on 1969 4-4-2's with
 >automatics (exc. W-30 and W-32).  >>

All Rochester QuadraJets were 750cfm until 1971, after that some used in
Buicks and Pontiacs were 800cfm.

The only real difference is the restriction in the venturii, but it is easy to
tell them apart when looking down the venturii of both.

And, now. 
The following is (accumulated though much hard work) a very concise and
complete list of people on this list whose Oldsmobile engines are so heavily
built up that they require an 800cfm QuadraJet:

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 19:00:59 +0800 
From: "WI02 Rutschmann Brandon M. AO2" <BRutschm@vinson.navy.mil>
Subject: Date:	Sat, 5 Dec 1998 19:00:59 +0800 

unsubscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 07:37:00 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: HEI Conversion Completed

List Members,
    The update is done!  Last night I started about 9:30 pm and finished up
at 12:30 am.  Reason it took so long is because I ran a compression check
while I was at it.  On #2 cylinder the needle just bounced.  Valve
problem....but that is a whole new thread.  I ordered my distributor
Wednesday and it arrived yesterday(Friday.)  Came with cap, rotor and wires.
I simply removed the old dist.(noted rotor position of course) and installed
the new one.  The only external electrical connection was the 'Batt'
terminal.  I simply took the two wires off the positive side of the coil,
installed the proper connector and connected it to the 'Batt' terminal.  One
of the two wires is from the starter, the other is from the ignition.  The
wire from the ignition side is supposed to be a 1.35ohm resistor up to the
fire wall then when it enters the interior it is a regular wire.  This wire
did not look like a resistor wire and I simply attached it.  Should I
replace the resistor wire with a regular wire?  The car ran fine once I set
the timing.  Thanks for your help.

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 07:14:12 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
Subject: Re: Two Lane Blacktop

not a 442 a cutlass and it is blown...KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, December 04, 1998 10:56 PM
Subject: Re: Two Lane Blacktop


>HOT ROD still sounds like a great movie.  It does have a 442 after
>all....
>Brian
>
>
>RPTW32@aol.com wrote:
>>
>> In a message dated 12/4/98 2:12:14 PM Eastern Standard Time,
cshankle@home.com
>> writes:
>>
>> << Not much Olds talk here, but Gene mentioned the movie Two Lane
Blacktop
>>  in a recent post.  I have been looking for that movie forever, and since
>>  it was made before I was, I have never seen it.  All the gearheads seem
>>  to love it though, and I am sure I would be no exception.  Any help on
>>  finding a copy of this would be greatly appreciated.
>>  Brian. >>
>>
>> Brian,
>>  Better yet is a movie called HOT ROD. Lot's of street and street racing.
Bad
>> boy in movie has 68 442 that starts out as street car and by end of movie
has
>> blower and dual quads . Paint job on car is definately out of the late
60's
>> early 70's but that was also before your time it sounds like. (Had to be
there
>> during the era to appreciate)
>>
>> Rgds,
>> RobThomas
>> 69 442

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 07:23:02 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
Subject: Re: Lightning Rod Shifter

I made one with an old offy dual quad intake and an aluminum plate milled
and drilled to accept 6-71 GMC blower had to put a popoff valve in the plate
and redrill some drive pulleys (took several trys to get them right) then I
promptly blew the engine after about 600 hours total time I was pretty young
when I did that it made a good show car but lousy performance didnt build
the engine right for a blower it melted spark plugs and all kinds of
nastiness...KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ed Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, December 04, 1998 7:35 PM
Subject: Re: Lightning Rod Shifter


>where dod you get a blower setup for a 455?!
>
>-----Original Message-----
>
>it now sports a 1025 HP blown 455 and
>>special 400 tranny with duel gate shifter,, Thanks Norval
>>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 08:21:29 -0600
From: bloom9@juno.com (C K)
Subject: Re: Bumper Reconditioning

Peter I can certainly understand your frustration. It really hurts to see
other people taken advantage of.
Some people pray upon us because we're so giddy in the first place, to
fix up our pride and joy, and it's as if they think we'll accept anything
they give us. 

The first rule on getting anything done is to mark everything! I have a
friend who sent in some bumpers to be rechromed and they made them worse.
After he made them do them again, they still weren't right. Since he
marked them at least he knew he got the right parts back.

The second rule is only use shops that have been used by someone you know
before and know they were satisfied. This list is a perfect source for
this info, in my opinion, if you don't know any place near where you
live.

The third rule is get the word out! Tell everyone you know. At the place
I work (well, at least show up) I see signs that people put up about
places that have ripped them off. Instead of trying to do something that
will possibly land you in jail, it's a whole lot better to run them out
of business.

All this is just my opinion.
Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass

>> Who did this s#&t to you?  Maybe, if we're real stealthy, we could
>> infiltrate under cover of darkness and f@$k them up and get 
>extricated
>> before anyone knew we were there.  Peter.
>

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 04 Dec 1998 09:23:31 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: Two Lane Blacktop

Thanks, that's even better!
Brian.

DrkSole96@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Two Lane Blacktop is available from On the Edge Video; www.otevideo.com,
> 425-672-1745 for $20.  That's where I got my copy.
> 
> DrkSole
> 73 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 09:35:09 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: F-85 Omega?

KS7RACING@aol.com wrote:

> Thomas (and interested list members),
>
> Sorry for not replying sooner, it's been hard to keep up with all the e-mail
> and do as much work around here on the house as I've been doing lately.
>
> As for the Omega/Nova comparison, I've just personally found (my mother 
worked
> for Oldsmobile here in Kansas City, Kansas from 1974 to 1990) that it seemed
> like the Omegas had more luxury items that most Novas, like better trim
> appointments and interior refinements.  There was even an Omega Salon one
> year, think it was sometime between 73 and 75, but not for sure.  But that's
> also due to the fact that when the Omega came out the major performance days
> at GM in general were all but over and they had to have another selling 
point,
> styling was one of those and luxury (even in a "budget" priced car, as all 
the
> X-bodies were considered back then) was another.  Now I know there were some
> luxury-minded Novas and also some bare-bones Omegas out there, but it seemed
> that the Omega was typically more of a lower-priced luxury model than the
> Nova.
>
> The Nova I had was one of those real low-budget models, a 1970 with the 235
> L-6, manual brakes and not even a place on the dash (an opening) for a radio.
> Talk about a budget-minded car.............
>
> Again, just MY opinion, and I could be wrong (happens often!)
>
> Take Care,
> Ken Snyder
> Kansas City, Kansas
> KS7RACING@aol.com

In 1975 an Omega Salon was available. 250 l-6 standard, 260V8 2bbl or 350V8 
4bbl
optional (no 455).
Olds ad says"Its good to know your Omega Salon, a new kind of compact, offers
looks and comfort like you'd expect in a European Grand Touring car." "Its a 
lot
of little Olds"
You could also order a "custom-fitted Hatchback camper conversion tent from 
your
dealer" Hey let's go camping in my new Omega.

From: Mark Hahn
[mailto:mahahn@fuse.net]

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 09:37:13 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Bumper Reconditioning

Fred - It is a little frustrating to be jerked around for parts for our
children.  My experiences are likely to be about the same over time as most
others.  Ranging from well pleased to totally screwed.  I now have my third
rear bumper for Redzilla.  At least this one is a workable core.  Is DDog
the way to go here?  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: C K <bloom9@juno.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, December 05, 1998 9:23 AM
Subject: Re: Bumper Reconditioning


>
>Peter I can certainly understand your frustration. It really hurts to see
>other people taken advantage of.
>Some people pray upon us because we're so giddy in the first place, to
>fix up our pride and joy, and it's as if they think we'll accept anything
>they give us.
>
>The first rule on getting anything done is to mark everything! I have a
>friend who sent in some bumpers to be rechromed and they made them worse.
>After he made them do them again, they still weren't right. Since he
>marked them at least he knew he got the right parts back.
>
>The second rule is only use shops that have been used by someone you know
>before and know they were satisfied. This list is a perfect source for
>this info, in my opinion, if you don't know any place near where you
>live.
>
>The third rule is get the word out! Tell everyone you know. At the place
>I work (well, at least show up) I see signs that people put up about
>places that have ripped them off. Instead of trying to do something that
>will possibly land you in jail, it's a whole lot better to run them out
>of business.
>
>All this is just my opinion.
>Fred Kemp
>bloom9@juno.com
>Tulsa, OK area
>'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass
>
>>> Who did this s#&t to you?  Maybe, if we're real stealthy, we could
>>> infiltrate under cover of darkness and f@$k them up and get
>>extricated
>>> before anyone knew we were there.  Peter.
>>
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 09:58:27 -0500
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: '70 C/S for sal on ebay

Description and pictures look pretty good for the price. 

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=46442747

- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
OCA# 30442

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 10:09:34 -0500
From: Dave Cullen <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Smog legal 350

Jim DeLucia wrote:
> 
> I want to put a 350 Olds in my 84 H/O.  I know that it is a direct
> drop in.  My question is.  Are there 350 Heads that are Smog Legal.
> I mean do that have air pipe fittings.  If so what years will work.

I have heard that California cars had them from around 75 and up.
Sometimes you'll find that the holes are plugged with pipe fittings, if
A.I.R. wasn't required on the particular car. 1980 was the last year of
the 350, and the best bet for AIR holes outside Calif. I'm still looking
for one myself. People say you can drill and tap almost any 350 head for
AIR tubes, but no one has offerred details on the specs (depth, thread,
angle, tooling, etc). I'd like to find that info.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 10:23:37 -0500
From: Dave Cullen <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Poor idle/ Manifold deposit buildup

Joe Gerschutz wrote:
> 
> I rebuilt the
> carb (new gaskets and such) this past weekend to no avail.  I
> tightened the carb studs down to specs (or at least tried....130
> ft.lbs on the long bolts...i broke two off in the manifold!  Is 130
> right?)

If you're talking about the 4 bolts that hold the carb to the manifold,
it's INCH POUNDS, Joe, NOT FOOT POUNDS! 130 inch lbs = 10.8 ft lbs. The
carb is aluminum. SQUUUAAAASSSHHHH......CRRRRAAAACCCCKKKK.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 10:29:03 -0500
From: Dave Cullen <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: how do you get adhesive off vinyl top?

Another non-threatening sticky stuff remover is the citrus formulated
spray that they sell in office supply stores (and in big supermarkets).
It's used to remove paper labels from computers and office furniture.
Just spray it on and let it soak in - turns the adhesive into mush that
washes off easily. Smells like oranges.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 10:30:39 -0500
From: Norval Minnear <norval@ictransnet.com>
Subject: Re: Lightning Rod Shifter

W451973@aol.com wrote:
> 
> sounds nice, i would like to see some pics sometime, im building a 77 442 
race
> car now myself, i like to be a little different from the rest. take care.
> dennis                         w451973
Dennis; I can scan some pics. and e-mail them to you if you like, just
let me know with an e-mail address ... Thanks Norval

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 10:37:32 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: 77 - 442 part out.

Hello all.

I've found a 77 442. Wasn't able to lift the VIN# as the dash tag was rusty
beyond readability. Car ended up at a local yard that rebuilds cars from
auction. I'm sure buddy has access to ownership documentation but another
person owns. Will get VIN # later today. Nonetheless, this car has not a
good sheet of body metal on it. Even the rear quarter inner body is rotted
in rear window area.

It does have a 4A - 403 in it. There seems to be some sort of thin metal box
somewhat clipped over the top of the water pump lip and filling most of the
area over block ID #. Can clearly see the 4A but not the rest. Didn't spend
more than 8 - 10 minutes looking car over. Motor has recently run on all 8
(I'm told), so is a good candidate for Quincy. Motor has years of grease
over it so couldn't read other head + block info. What heads might this '77
403 have?

Car has power buckets (cushion/fabric destroyed), would this be a 4-way
bucket?
Believe there is two lever switches and the center round directional knob.
If working I will keep these tracks.

Also car has power locks + Windows. No battery in it but will test
components on next viewing.
Anyone interested in the door electric's if working?

What transmission might be behind this 403, a Th350? Has floor stick +
console. Wood, err, plastic insert shot but console may be salvageable. The
sliding console front compartment door is intact and works well. The elbow
compartment top is even in tact.

On to the rear. Didn't open trunk yet to look for option decal but what rear
most likely lives under this car? 3.43? posi? 8.5 housing? What are the
dimension differences between this Rear Axle Housing an a G-body? Longer
axle tubes? different 4 Link positions? Might this year be the aluminum
center housing I've been hearing about? Need to lift car to see. Will
inspect closer upon next viewing.

Anything anyone need I should look for?

I've been told the 403ci was an option in '77 so I'm assuming it is an
original drive line.

Don't think I can get drive line with out buying the entire car. So, what
parts might anyone be able to use if good. Windshield cracked but rest of
glass OK. car has factory A/C and rebuilt/replaced Q-jet carb.

I can't seem to access the FAQ at 442.com. Maybe internet back bone
problems. Will keep trying. Looking for any info on the 4A block vs. the 4B.
What changed between these two different engine models. Wouldn't it be great
to find solid webs? Yeah right.

So, feed me some info/specs/desires to:
gjcouse@francomm.com.

Am on full list so if this is a rather rare drive line and info interesting
to all, I'll also get the list post...

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

ICQ# 5209322 = "CC-IROC-SS"
Personal ICQ Communication Center:
http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
Project Questions To:
mailto:cc-iroc-ss@CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 10:42:38 -0500
From: Dave Cullen <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Value of '85 Olds

SpeedCom@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Saw a rather clean 85 Olds 4 dr. today. It didn't have an ** badge on it, but
> I think that's what it is. Top of the line interior, lomething like LS, and 
it
> said some comforting words on the side...custom Brougham or some such.
> 
> Anyway, 127K miles on the 307, everything works except the cruise control.

A Delta would have the Delta-88 script on the front fenders. Maybe they
weren't replaced after painting. Olds Dealers sell the emblems for about
$25.

I bought my 85 Delta Royale for $1500 with 123,000 miles. No smoke, no
leaks, immaculate interior, needed one front fender. My cruise is also
broken, and I've traced it to the servo unit. Haven't priced a
replacement yet.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 10:40:11 -0500
From: Norval Minnear <norval@ictransnet.com>
Subject: Re: Lightning Rod Shifter

Ed Binnix wrote:
> 
> where dod you get a blower setup for a 455?!
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> it now sports a 1025 HP blown 455 and
> >special 400 tranny with duel gate shifter,, Thanks Norval
> >
The Blower came from Hampton ,,A 455 alum intake was machined down and
the base of the Hampton Blower was welded by heliarc to the alum intake
all complete was $5787.00 not counting the carbs , the carbs are two 780
double pumper hollys Thanks Norval

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 10:51:37 -0500
From: Dave Cullen <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: F-85 Omega?

KS7RACING@aol.com wrote:
> 
> As for the Omega/Nova comparison, I've just personally found (my mother 
worked
> for Oldsmobile here in Kansas City, Kansas from 1974 to 1990) that it seemed
> like the Omegas had more luxury items that most Novas, like better trim
> appointments and interior refinements.

My first new car was a 78 Omega 4-dr, V-6. Daily Driver for 17 years and
190,000 miles. I looked at the Pontiac equivalent first (Phoenix) and
wasn't impressed. The Olds was far superior in interior detailing,
soundproofing, and paint (laquer instead of enamel). Overall workmanship
was just plain better too. Just wish I'd known I could have had a 350..

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 11:03:08 -0500
From: Norval Minnear <norval@ictransnet.com>
Subject: Re: Lightning Rod Shifter

Kerry Kroger wrote:
> 
> I made one with an old offy dual quad intake and an aluminum plate milled
> and drilled to accept 6-71 GMC blower had to put a popoff valve in the plate
> and redrill some drive pulleys (took several trys to get them right) then I
> promptly blew the engine after about 600 hours total time I was pretty young
> when I did that it made a good show car but lousy performance didnt build
> the engine right for a blower it melted spark plugs and all kinds of
> nastiness...KK
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ed Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Friday, December 04, 1998 7:35 PM
> Subject: Re: Lightning Rod Shifter
> 
> >where dod you get a blower setup for a 455?!
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >
> >it now sports a 1025 HP blown 455 and
> >>special 400 tranny with duel gate shifter,, Thanks Norval
> >>
> >
> >
> >
I understand Thats why I went to Hampton , and the engine was sent to
Orland Fl. to be built at a pro shop. By the way this olds is not mine I
bought it for my wife , she does all the driving of it I only wrench on
it I have driven the olds approx 50 miles we got it with 212 miles on it
probely the hurst test miles it now has 5826 miles on it which she put
all of them but about 50 miles which I put on total ,testing things out.
I still have my original golden aniversary 54 olds which my wife and i
drove on our honey moon in 1962 .....Norval

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 08:20:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff & Sherie Stanish <stanishj@svpal.org>
Subject: Re: how do you get stickers off?

Have also wanted to save stickers too like the tire pressure decal from my
'69 H/O.  Got it off with an air driven heat gun , hair dryer on high
might work too. was able to save it mostly intact considering its almost
30 years old.

On Fri, 4 Dec 1998, Kerry Kroger wrote:

> easy use a cotton ball or two and zippo lighter fluid it is essentially
> naptha it will disolve most adhesives use it liberally but wash it off with
> soap and water when your done...KK
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Friday, December 04, 1998 10:10 AM
> Subject: Re: how do you get stickers off?
> 
> 
> >They make this stuff called Goo-Gone. I don't know who makes it but it
> >works like a charm. Comes in a little 3 or 4 oz bottle. It's yellow in
> >color. Try Wal-Mart or K-mart or one of the marts. Pretty cheap too. Takes
> >sticky crap off anything.
> >
> >Ed
> >The Omega man
> >2-74's
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >At 09:41 AM 12/4/98 -0600, you wrote:
> >>
> >>Hi Listers,
> >>
> >>Sounds like a stupid question: How do you get stickers off the chrome
> >>bumpers? I have two real hard ones. The surface is really firm and the
> >>glue just like concrete. They must be 20 years old. I Tried Acetone. I am
> >>sure heat will work but doesn't that put a blueish stain on the chrome?
> >>Any suggestions welcome!
> >>
> >>Another question regarding bumpers: Working on the rear end I found a
> >>rust hole in the right lower end of the rear bumper... is there any way
> >>to fix this or to let it be fixed??? (Don't tell me to put a STICKER on
> >>it... )
> >>
> >>Thanks, Regards,
> >>George
> >>
> >>--------------------------------------------------------------
> >>'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
> >>http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
> >>--------------------------------------------------------------
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Dec 1998 12:13:36 -0500
From: "person" <vbdeveloper@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: RE: Rechroming

There was a thread going a while back about recroming plastic parts. I found
a company in Florida that sells(quote from the ad):

"Electroplating and electroforming equipment, chemicals, supplies and kits.
Featuring chrome, nickel, gold, copper, silver, bronze and cadmium plating.
Our kits will plate on metallic and non-metallic surfaces. We manufacture
both brush and tank-plating kits. FREE CATALOG"

Contact:

Dalmar
941-275-6540
dalmar@peganet.com

Hope this helps. I ordered a catalog myself...

                                       =
                                           =
                                                =
==================================
'69 Olds Ninety-Eight Topless Bubba==========
====666=================999============
        666                                  999

VBDeveloper@worldnet.att.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 12:05:20 -0700
From: "Marshall" <miss_connie@email.msn.com>
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 14:48:20 -0500
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: Rear End Transfer

I'm pretty sure any 65 or 66 A body will work.  I know 67 will not...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 13:51:10 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: HEI Conversion Completed

This will work but it is supposed to be a heavier gauge of wire.  The wire
going to the "batt" terminal should be 10 gauge but 12 would do.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>List Members,
>    The update is done!  Last night I started about 9:30 pm and finished up
>at 12:30 am.  Reason it took so long is because I ran a compression check
>while I was at it.  On #2 cylinder the needle just bounced.  Valve
>problem....but that is a whole new thread.  I ordered my distributor
>Wednesday and it arrived yesterday(Friday.)  Came with cap, rotor and
wires.
>I simply removed the old dist.(noted rotor position of course) and
installed
>the new one.  The only external electrical connection was the 'Batt'
>terminal.  I simply took the two wires off the positive side of the coil,
>installed the proper connector and connected it to the 'Batt' terminal.
One
>of the two wires is from the starter, the other is from the ignition.  The
>wire from the ignition side is supposed to be a 1.35ohm resistor up to the
>fire wall then when it enters the interior it is a regular wire.  This wire
>did not look like a resistor wire and I simply attached it.  Should I
>replace the resistor wire with a regular wire?  The car ran fine once I set
>the timing.  Thanks for your help.
>
>Jim Brady
>1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
>http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
>bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 14:59:37 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Timing Chain

In a message dated 12/4/98 11:19:03 PM Central Standard Time,
vbdeveloper@Worldnet.ATT.NET writes:

<< I think the time for a new chain has come. Considering what my mechanic
 quoted me for the job(I can not even repeat what he said...), I want to
 change the chain myself. How big a job would that be? What pitfalls should I
 look out for? What timing chain kit to buy? Where? What other parts should
 be changed while I am in there? >>


It really isn't all that involved of a process. time
consuming?...yes...hard?...no.
1.You must remove the antifreeze from the motor and radiator.
2. remove all accessory drive belts and pulleys that are blocking the
waterpump.
3. remove the fuel pump.
4. remove the water pump, harmonic balancer(you may need a balancer pulling
tool...I didn't), and then remove the timingchain cover.
5. remove the camshaft sprocket first...followed by the chain and crank
sprocket.
6. this is very important!...If you have a completely stock (as in factory
original) engine, it is important to know if the camshaft was installed with a
factory retarded chain. some engines are detuned this way to meet EPA . if it
is...you must reinstall a factory chain to keep the valvetiming correct in
relation to cam timing. If the motor has an aftermarket cam...then any
Oldsmobile specific aftermarket chain will do.
7. when installing the new chain...you must line up the markings on each
sprocket so that they are at at the point in their rotation where they are
closest to each other. the must line up perfectly for the chain to fit the
teeth. also...it is important that you do not disturb the camshaft or crank
while the chain is removed...this will insure that the engine will be in
correct time.( or very close...depending on if the timing chain was streched
badly or not).
8. once the chain is installed ...reverse the removal procedures in reinstall
the front of the motor and belts. 
9. It is very important that once the job is completed ...you reset point
gap(if you have points) and reset the initial timing to factory specs.

   If I left anything out...it was accidental, and the members of this list
will be quick to add in deatils.

Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 f-85

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 14:05:27 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Master cylinder swap  '66 F-85

The rear should lock up just a little sooner than the fronts.

Mike B

>4) Get an adjustable proportioning valve. Wilwood makes these and Jeg's has
>'em. Maybe $50. Plumbing this in is the hardest part of the job, but it
will
>allow you to control the pressure to the rear brakes after the swap. This
is
>important because you want the front / rear bias to be correct. Can't
recall
>now just which should lock up first.
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 14:19:00 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Olds quotes and crashing cars, etc.

Just a blind guess but were these people taking the car to the dealership?
On my Integra it took about ten minutes to adjust the clutch myself and
aside
from changing the oil (every 7500 miles) I spent a grand total of $0.00 on
the car in 2 years.  Ran perfect the whole time.  As far as build quality
what
kind of price do you put on that?

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>A very good point.  I have friends who really like their H-brand cars and
they
>tell me how great they run and how reliable they are.  About twice a year
they
>get the big tune ups that include adjusting the clutch, replacing belts,
and
>fixing other small things and the bills often run into the hundreds of
>dollars.  One of them even said "Oh yeah, I still love my Pr*lude but it
cost
>$650 for the last tune up".
>
>For that kind of money I can get my transmission rebuilt or a good start on
>doing the engine.  But their cars always run smooth and never break down so
>they forget about the cost and assume it's what everyone pays.
>
>I once had a co-worker try to sell me her car.  She just loved it and it
was
>such a good car.  All four brakes were in good shape (they had just been
>replaced) and it was a beautiful shade of blue (well it used to be a
lighter
>blue but that oxidized so bad they had it repainted), and it just had the
>clutch worked on, and yada, yada, yada.  She really didn't seem to think
that
>these were unusual repairs and she was sure that a domestic car would have
>required a lot more work!
>
>I call it H*nda vision since it seems to be related to tunnel vision.
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 15:34:10 -0500 (EST)
From: Garbo162@webtv.net (Gary Lieb)
Subject: Wondering if i got a good price

I bought an 87 cutlass cieara a couple of months ago. the body had no
dents it needed a paint job but not despratly.The interior was
perfect.the car only had 36,000 miles on.My grandmas freind only drove
it to the doctor and the supremarket.It sounded like a good deal at
$1500 dollars so i bought it what do you guys think. also is thier any
thing i can do to make it faster.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 14:40:29 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Value of '85 Olds (timing chain?)

The simple way to check to see if the timing chain is stretched is to hook
up a timing light to it.  If you have the engine warmed up and at constant
idle and you see the timing jumping around all over the place (+/- 5
degrees) then that means the timing chain is stretched and should be
replaced.  The dist sets the timing but is run off the cam which is run by
the timing chain.  When the chain stretches it will give erratic valve
timing
but also dist timing.  Easy way to check how loose it is.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>Just wondering about this. My 307 certainly doesn't seem to have quite the
>power it did back in the '80s. Would it be a good idea to change out the
>timin chain?
>
>Car has 100k and drives fine. One of those 'if it aint broke ...' dilemmas.
>I mean if I were to go ahead and change it, would the risk of other
problems
>increase? You know, a domino effect.
>
>TIA.
>
>>He did mention that acceleration was sluggish. Maybe a symptom of
stretched
>>timing chain? Do these things break catastrophically? This car has to go
1000
>>miles on its "shakedown", but thereafter will lead a rather sedentary
life.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 14:46:57 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Timing Chain 

As far as gasket kit I always go with Fel Pro and the timing chain kit will
have everything you need.  You'll need to pull the belts, fan, fan shroud,
water pump, and timing cover.  You may need to loosen up the oil pan and
remove some of the accessory brackets.  Not a really hard job but since
you have to pull the balancer you should get a puller which you can usually
borrow from Auto Zone or Advance by leaving a deposit.  DON'T try to pry
it off since you run the risk of cracking it.  The only other tough part is
getting
the timing gear off the crank but you can pry it out.  Make sure you have a
couple of good pry bars.  While you have the water pump off inspect the
weep hole for seepage and that should be about it for "might as wells".

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>Hello all,
>    I think the time for a new chain has come. Considering what my mechanic
>quoted me for the job(I can not even repeat what he said...), I want to
>change the chain myself. How big a job would that be? What pitfalls should
I
>look out for? What timing chain kit to buy? Where? What other parts should
>be changed while I am in there? A lot of questions......
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 12:42:05 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Wondering if i got a good price

At 03:34 PM 12/5/98 -0500, you wrote:
>I bought an 87 cutlass cieara a couple of months ago. the body had no
>dents it needed a paint job but not despratly.The interior was
>perfect.the car only had 36,000 miles on.My grandmas freind only drove
>it to the doctor and the supremarket.It sounded like a good deal at
>$1500 dollars so i bought it what do you guys think. 

it sounds like a good price.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 14:54:32 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 307 Timing Chain

Worst case scenario is to tag the valves but that isn't all that common.
Motors usually jump time as you shut them off so when you try to start
them they're out of time and you bend valves IF the chain is loose enough
to continue to jump time.  It happens but not very common on V8's.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme
 
>The 307 in my 87 Custom Cruiser just turned over 168K.  I drive the car
>110 miles daily to and from work.  My dad bought the car new in 87
>($17,000 sticker) and I got it with 113K miles.  It has the original
>timing chain.  I was planning on changing the timing chain last summer,
>and I am probably on borrowed time.  What is the worst-case scenario if
>the chains lets go?  Will it tag the valves as did my wife's 88 Calais
>when it had 70K on the 3.0 litre Buick engine?
>
>Bill Bussell
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 15:57:33 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Olds quotes and crashing cars, etc.

- -----Original Message-----
 mbloomer

On my Integra 



On your what?  

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 17:04:45 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Info. regarding model/reproduction toy cars(post war 1940  series) 
(fwd)

Received this personally, maybe someone here can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: isolated@earthlink.net
Subject: Info. regarding model/reproduction toy cars(post war 1940  series)

Greg,

Came across your name on a web page.  Have a question for you.  Do you have
information where I could get Oldsmobile toy car or models for 1947-1947
models.  If so, I'd greatly you appreciate you passing that info on to me.

Thankyou,

Craig T.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 15:14:04 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Olds quotes and crashing cars, etc.

You know, made by the Aword which is actually the Hword.  

> mbloomer
>
>On my Integra 
>
>
>
>On your what?  
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 16:43:28 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Rechroming

With the high price of chroming, a few years back I looked into geting the
equipment to do it myself and found that the process involved mega-toxic
chemicals (cyanide or arsenic or some such foul potions). And at boiling hot
temperatures. I decided to leave it to the pro's.


drc


>There was a thread going a while back about recroming plastic parts. I
found
>a company in Florida that sells(quote from the ad):
>
>"Electroplating and electroforming equipment, chemicals, supplies and kits.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 16:42:51 EST
From: W451973@aol.com
Subject: Re: Lightning Rod Shifter

hey, thanks. sounds great. please send them to w451973@aol.com        thanks
dennis

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 16:55:33 -0500
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Re: Rechroming

As someone else posted, this process involves some really environmentally
unfriendly chemicals. Cadmium especially is on the EPA's most dangerous
list. I used to work in a place that manufactured military aircraft parts.
Cadmium is used extensively in the preservation of these parts. We were
constantly inspected for control of these substances. I can't believe that
a kit is available to the general public that contains these chemicals. I'd
like to know what the catalog says. 
			R. Kevin Noon
			66 Dynamic 88 Convertible 
			85 Delta 88 Royale Brougham

- ----------
> From: person <vbdeveloper@worldnet.att.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: Rechroming
> Date: Friday, December 04, 1998 12:13 PM
> 
> There was a thread going a while back about recroming plastic parts. I
found
> a company in Florida that sells(quote from the ad):
> 
> "Electroplating and electroforming equipment, chemicals, supplies and
kits.
> Featuring chrome, nickel, gold, copper, silver, bronze and cadmium
plating.
> Our kits will plate on metallic and non-metallic surfaces. We manufacture
> both brush and tank-plating kits. FREE CATALOG"
> 
> Contact:
> 
> Dalmar
> 941-275-6540
> dalmar@peganet.com
> 
> Hope this helps. I ordered a catalog myself...
> 
>                                        =
>                                            =
>                                                 =
> ==================================
> '69 Olds Ninety-Eight Topless Bubba==========
> ====666=================999============
>         666                                  999
> 
> VBDeveloper@worldnet.att.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 15:52:53 -0600
From: Charles Lundin <cblundin@flash.net>
Subject: Re: Small Block update?

The Holley Intake Manifold is #300-16. Its out of production but Holley
tech said it would be probably still available through distribution. The
quote from my local speed shop was $229 for it. That manifold was also
to fit the 350 and 403 according to their web site: www.holley.com

I have decided to rebuild a junkyard 350 instead of all of this, and
take my time. So I will just rebuild the dual-jet for now.

jason shreve wrote:
> 
> What type of intake is that? It costs more than I paid for a performer
> rpm.
> 
> >3. Cost of the Holley 4175 carb is $339, the manifold is $240+/- Total
> 
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 17:03:44 EST
From: DrkSole96@aol.com
Subject: Re: Timing Chain

As long as we're on the subject, dos anyone have anything to say about timing
gears vs timing chains.  I've been looking at the parts available, and it
looks like gear set would be more desirable, is there any durability problems
associated with them?

DrkSole
73 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 17:24:37 -0500
From: KIB <kib7@usa.net>
Subject: Electronic odometer reads "error"

Hello All,

Problem:
Oldsmobile Cutlas Supreme SL 1991, V6 3.1L has a digital dashboard.
After replacing the dead battery with the new one I started the engine.
Naturally all the previous settings for the clock, radio, A/C were
forgotten, it happens every time you disconnect the battery.
 
But this time the odometer displayed the word "error" instead of
mileage.

Question:
Is there any way to restore the original mileage reading or at least
reset the
odometer to some reasonable value?

Thanks in advance, all opinions will be appreciated.

Konstantin
Ottawa, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 16:50:11 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Bumpers

To all, 
Some confusion over the bumpers Peter and I were talking about, DESERT DOG,
DID NOT DO THE BUMPERS IN QUESTION, DON'T WANT TO SEE HIM GET A BAD RAP,
bumpers were done by a guy in St. Lou, it's him we're going to kill, AND
after the trial I am going to send my bumper to Desert Dog, heard good
things about him. Sorry for the mix-up.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 18:08:49 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Possible Hot-Air Choke Sealant

     I had a thought for the guy who's having trouble sealing his
hot-air choke plate to his manifold.  Maybe the stuff in a tube or small
jar you can buy to seal cracks in exhaust manifolds would work.  I know
it would practically cement the parts together, but how often do you
take the whole thing off, anyway?  Perhaps, if you put it on the plate
like a gasket sealer, bolted the plate into position, then let it dry
you'd be in business.  If you were careful you could make the seal
invisible.  Just a thought.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 17:34:37 -0600
From: "Ron Hengerer" <rhengerer@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: HEI Conversion Completed

Where did you get the distributer from and did you use your original coil.


Ron Hengerer

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1644
*********************************

