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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1671


oldsmobile-digest     Thursday, December 17 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1671



Re: cutlass front coil spring replacement
Re: Olds and F-Bodies
Re: Timing Chain replacement
battery size
Re: Emissions
Re: Emissions
Re: PISTON FILLING
Re: cutlass supreme engine offset
1970\442 for sale
Motor Mounts [was: Hooker 3202 headers]
Re: cutlass supreme engine offset
Re: battery size
Re: battery size
Re: GJC
Re: UNBOUNCE: Re: Aligning a door
Re: appraisals
70-72 442 window fuzzies
70-72 442 window fuzzies
Re: cutlass supreme engine offset
Re: PISTON FILLING
Tick Tock Tach
faq
Re: Re:more bench racing[8000rpm 350]
UNBOUNCE defined
Re: PISTON FILLING
Re: Heater Blower Relay (a thread off of
No Oldses in Iraq
Thanks Gary
Re: 70-72 442 window fuzzies
Re: 70-72 442 window fuzzies
Re: No Oldses in Iraq
Re: IGOR READ
Re: Olds in Movies
Re: faq
Re: Olds and F-Bodies
Cutlass front coil spring replacement/ Hotchkiss
Re: don't believe (was offset)
Re: dazed and confused
Re: Motor Mounts [was: Hooker 3202 headers]
Re: Headers repros (Was 442 convert?)
Re: cutlass supreme engine offset
Re: Olds and F-Bodies
Re: Olds and F-Bodies
motor mounts
re: engine offset
84 Hurst Olds
Re: Emissions
New Parts.
Re: engine offset
Re: engine offset
Kenne-Bell Oldsmobile
330/350 swap & more '64 questions
Re: 330/350 swap & more '64 questions
Pair of '56 88's-Los Angeles
Re: 330/350 swap & more '64 questions
UNBOUNCE: 1961 Oldsmobile Limousine
Re: engine offset
Re: engine offset
Re: Olds and F-Bodies
re: engine offset (Measured my '72 convertible)
Re: No Oldses in Iraq
Re: battery size
Re: faq
Re: engine offset
Re: AM Radio is killing me! WTB '76 AM/FM Cassette!
Camshaft selection, 350 V8    (LONG!)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 17:06:06 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: cutlass front coil spring replacement

The factory manual for my '72 Cutlass Supreme says I have to
disassemble the front suspension - separate the lower control arms
from the spindles - to replace the front coil springs (I'm putting in
Hotchkiss springs).  Is this the only way?
__________

Yup, afraid so.  You'll still want to use a spring compressor, but you'll
need the kind that goes up inside the spring and has a single threaded
shaft.  And, of course, since you'll have the suspension apart anyway, you
(all together now...) MIGHTASWELL replace the ball joints and bushings.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 16:14:15 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Olds and F-Bodies

Joe, 
Don't mention Vegas.
Lou
(Snip)
> platform (the Vega).  The car was pretty cool, and had a large, removable

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 17:10:58 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Timing Chain replacement

Edelbrock reccomends that
> it's camshafts be installed "straight up". In order to insure that it's
cams
> are indeed installed sraightup...it reccommends NOT using a factory
chain.
___________

Yeah, maybe I'm cynical, but you don't suppose this is just a _little_
self-serving on Edelbrock's part?  If it were me, _I'd_ certainly recommend
that you should also buy a timing set from me when you buy a cam...

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 16:24:03 -0600 (CST)
From: Donald B Cart <dcart@micro.ti.com>
Subject: battery size

 The battery in my '72 Cutlass died recently and am curious
what size (cca) others use. I've looked at stores, but they
don't really categorize old cars well. The engine is a 350.
I live in Tx so cold weather isn't a big issue. The car's
driven once a week or so, weather permitting.

Thanks,
Don
72 Cutlass Conv
91 Calais I-Series

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 17:12:11 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Emissions

In a message dated 12/16/98 2:05:47 PM Pacific Standard Time,
lbiggs@intertek.net writes:

<< All, 
 Live in Illinois, testing in some areas, but not all, we're being included
 in Jan, 99. Any tricks out there? Heard buy gas with 10% alky, also have
 some stuff at the parts house says, "Add this and guaranteed to pass", cars
 all should be in good shape, but with politics who knows. Can't get coll.
 plates for the 75 till next year. Any suggestions???
 Lou Biggs
 lbiggs@intertek.net >>

     Lou, the alcohol works, but you have to get the right type of alcohol.
MAY need to use it in higher proportion than 10% (friend accidently used about
50% in his 350, but it still ran) Would be nice to have an emissions "sniffer"
to test different things out. I also believe newer catalytic converters reduce
certain emissions (NOX?) better than the ones that would be on a 75 vintage
car. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 16:38:46 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Emissions

Thanks, 
The cat is orig. from 1975, added fake duals, hate to replace orig cat if I
could sneak thru.
Lou

> From: DYeager535@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Emissions
> Date: Wednesday, December 16, 1998 4:12 PM
>      Lou, the alcohol works, but you have to get the right type of
alcohol.
> MAY need to use it in higher proportion than 10% (friend accidently used
about
> 50% in his 350, but it still ran) Would be nice to have an emissions
"sniffer"
> to test different things out. I also believe newer catalytic converters
reduce
> certain emissions (NOX?) better than the ones that would be on a 75
vintage
> car. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 17:29:29 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: PISTON FILLING

In a message dated 12/16/98
 3:<BR55:<BR42 PM Central Standard Ti, Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM writes:>  Note
also that
>  you'll only have a weld around the perimeter of the plug, with a big gap
>  underneath that you won't be able to weld.  Finally, you'll still have a
>  heat-effected zone around the weld; in aerospace use we use a big knockdown
>  factor on the structural allowables here, or we totally anneal the part
>  then re-heat treat it

I had assumed that we wouldn't be welding a piece in, but rather building up
with weld, so no unattached zones. I'd also assume proper engineering practice
which would include normalizing, etc. 

Joe, we are in agreement that this isn't the proper method. I was just
suggesting that it *could* be done. If someone were just welding up a bit of
valve clearance, it might be do-able.

Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 17:31:51 EST
From: W451973@aol.com
Subject: Re: cutlass supreme engine offset

thank you, Joe. why do people always beleive what they read in HOTROD

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 14:46:05 -0800
From: babyboo@pacbell.net
Subject: 1970\442 for sale

This post was a hard one to write, But here goes.....
I want to (Well not really) sell my baby. She's a 1970\442.
90% restoration, not frame off, but darn close.
She's a Holliday coupe H/T.
455 Stock engine, not sure of heads. 400Auto trans, all stock. Both
rebuilt 1000 miles ago.
All new interior courtiesy of YEARONE, including new seat skins w/ new
foam. New carpets w/ underlayment.
New white vinyl top. New paint. Has tick-tock gauges( needs rebuilding)
and ralley pack.
Bucket seats,floor console.
A/C
Rearwindow blower(de-fogger)
New frontend including new brakes, shocks.
Flowmaster exhaust- Duals.
Her colors are Gallion Gold paint w/white pin stripes under
clearcoat.Gold interior(seats,carpet,headliner,etc..)
I figured I would offer her to the list first as I would like to see her
go to a home, were somebody would love her and care for her as I have.
My plan is to rebuilb another 442 next year. Sorry to take up band
width. I live in Fremont, Ca.
Which is where my baby was created.
Am looking to get $11000.00 O.B.O
If interested you can Email me privately at ...babyboo@pacbell.net
Or phone  me @ 510-770-1372. Thanks,Craig

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 13:36:07 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Motor Mounts [was: Hooker 3202 headers]

> You're correct, Mark, in suggesting the use of the 350 mounts as a
matched
> set for the big block swap, but just to avoid confusion (since this
is a
> fairly frequent thread), the engine itself (as relates to crank
centerline)
> will be in exactly the same place as the small block (which it needs
to be
> for tranny alignment, fan location in the shroud, etc).  The engine
> _appears_ to sit higher because a big block _is_ one inch taller
than a
> small block - the heads and carb flange are obviously further away
from the
> crank centerline.  The problems come with mixing big block motor
mounts
> with small block frame mounts, or vice versa.
- -----------------------------------------------------

Is there any way of determining what mounts are what? If I had a set
of motor mounts, can I tell if they are SB or BB mounts?

Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 17:37:59 EST
From: W451973@aol.com
Subject: Re: cutlass supreme engine offset

thats true, having been there with Mark, and having put headers on more than
my share of 68-72 Cutlasses, ill bet money on it!
Dennis                         w451973                        

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 17:12:16 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: battery size

Mine is about the biggest you can get without going to 
a marine unit.  It's rated at 900/650cca.  My car is a 
68 w/350 and might be overkill but after killing two other
batteries for various reasons I was tired of swapping 
batteries.  It's the correct one for the A body and fit's the
stock battery tray.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme
  
> The battery in my '72 Cutlass died recently and am curious
>what size (cca) others use. I've looked at stores, but they
>don't really categorize old cars well. The engine is a 350.
>I live in Tx so cold weather isn't a big issue. The car's
>driven once a week or so, weather permitting.
>
>Thanks,
>Don
>72 Cutlass Conv
>91 Calais I-Series
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 18:25:02 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: battery size

Donald B Cart wrote:
> 
>  The battery in my '72 Cutlass died recently and am curious
> what size (cca) others use. I've looked at stores, but they
> don't really categorize old cars well. The engine is a 350.
> I live in Tx so cold weather isn't a big issue. The car's
> driven once a week or so, weather permitting.

I live in Ky, so we get abit more cold weather than you do, but I've
always bought the largest CCA's in a battery that I could fit into the
battery location.  Several reasons for that.  I feel like I have more
reserve power for cranking, running accessories, etc.  If something does
happen to the charging system, it should take longer to run down (and
give more time to get to a repair place) as opposed to a smaller
battery.  I've usually found that places like AutoZone, NAPA, etc have
the least expensive batteries compared to Sears, Montomery Wards, etc. 
I've been using Decca batteries for years with no problems, but that is
because I get them at cost from one of my clients.  Last battery I
bought was like a 1000-1200 CCA.  Had a 70 Charger that I had trouble
starting when it got down below zero back in 1971 or so.  When the
factory battery died, I asked my fatherinlaw (probably one of the best
mechanics I've ever seen) what to get.  So we went to town to his parts
place and he showed me the most powerful battery that would fit in my
car and said buy it.  I did and never had another problem with cold
weather starts of the high compression engine again.  Wish I still had
that car in my entourage, but it got traded in for a 72 LTD with air
cond because the then current wife wanted air in the summer.  Should
have waited as I traded her 2 years later.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 16:26:54 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: GJC

AND :-)  I saved on insurance, license fees, beer bought a bars, ( since I'm
home in the garage and converted my wife to the neat car side of
transportation.
- -----Original Message-----
From: <GJC> CC-IROC-SS <gjcouse@francomm.com>
To: G-Body List <olds_gbody@listbot.com>
Cc: Oldsmobile@Chebucto. Ns. Ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, December 15, 1998 9:59 PM
Subject: GJC


>I was just thinking about the true value aspects of our hobbies.
>
>When we undertake the task to love our machines to life and health, non
>seeing others exclaim, "you'll never get your money out of it".
Huummmmmm.
>
>Now, let's look at this. First of we see the car, that sparks the thought,
>producing the u~foric dreams and so on. Don't trip out on me here Karl...
>
>To put this situation in proper financial 3D (Time) perspective. Our cars
in
>their day were the upper crust. a $3,500 (+) new car then are today's
>$20.000 (+) new cars. Not comparing the progression of mechanical
>technology. Let's put that aside for a moment.
>
>Let's put an price of $2,000 on a restorable yesterday car today. We plunge
>say $3,500 in good metal and paint work to make her new. Another say $3,500
>to rebuild a far better than new driveline. Say another $1,000 in interior
>perfection's beyond any factory ability. Oh yes and another say $1,500 in
>everything from bumper chroming to brake lines. Hum, I've got $11,500 in
>this car that today would have sold new for $20,000 (+). Not only that,
It's
>near brand new too. In fact, it's far better than it ever was when it was
>new.
>
>I also own a piece of tangible, real history.
>A history I'm proud to be a part of.
>I've skinned every knuckle I have.
>I've tracked through the parts yards in poring rain.
>I've changed transmissions laying in the mud.
>I've massaged life back into the near dead.
>I've attended grand events I likely never would have.
>I've met better friends than I've ever known.
>I've fulfilled a dream I had since youth, yet now am living.
>I ride the machine feeling like a million bucks.
>This machine owns my blood, sweat, tears, and respect.
>(add another few hundred experiences here)
>
>Can you put a $$ on all that good time you have been through?
>
>I can't. I can say that I feel far, far richer in every aspect that matters
>in life, than I ever would have been without following my dreams.   That's
>priceless.
>
>And I still saved $8,500 over that new 99.
>
>Like I said, I was just reflecting.
>
>Have a Happy and Safe Holiday Season!
>-----Regards,
>
>Gary J. Couse
>Couse Custom
>
>Custom Conversion Prototype:
>CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
>http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
>Send Project Questions To:
>mailto:info@CC-IROC-SS.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 17:52:53 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Re: Aligning a door

Pins and bushings can be purchased through most mail order companies all
depending whay year and model it is. The hinges must be removed to press
out the pins. Take out the top and leave the bottom on, then put the top
one in and replace the bottom one. This way you don't have to take off the
door. The hinge with the spring in it is the hardest one to do. You have to
remove the spring which is under alot of pressure. The you have to hammer
out the old pin and press the new pin in along with the new bushing. The
hard part is putting the spring back on. I compressed mine on a vice and
then used wire ties to keep it compressed when you take it off the vise.
Put it back on the hinge and then cut the wire ties. Watch so the spring
don't go flying and take out an eye.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
> To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: UNBOUNCE: Re: Aligning a door
> Date: Wednesday, December 16, 1998 4:29 AM
> 
> No longer on the list, respond to bremmer@sgi.com if you can assist.
> 
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
> 
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From:	Matthew Bremmer <bremmer@sgi.com>
> Subject: Re: Aligning a door
> 
> > Also if you have "play" in the door,, if you can raise the door up
while its
> > open, then you need to replace the pins and bushings, that is a simple
job
> > with 2 people or a floor jack placed under an open door with a piece of
wood
> > and a towel protecting the lower part of the door, just make sure you 
> 
> I know you wrote this a while ago.  But I have this problem with my
> drivers side door.  Would you go to Napa and get new pins and bushings
> or the dealership?  Also how do you replace the pin and bushing.  I
> would greatly appreciate a response.  Thanks in advance.
> 
> Matt

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 17:53:23 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: appraisals

Go to a professional appraisal center.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: MVan442@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: appraisals
> Date: Wednesday, December 16, 1998 6:15 AM
> 
>     I need information on the best way to insure my olds, with out
getting
> ripped off

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 18:19:59 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: 70-72 442 window fuzzies

I was looking to replace my window fuzzies on my 72. The original ones are
in good condition, they just have ripped ruber in some areas. My question
is wehter they ned to be replaced. This is on a convertible that is garage
kept. What is the function of these things? Also are the repro good quality
and fit? Originality is not important.


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 18:19:59 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: 70-72 442 window fuzzies

I was looking to replace my window fuzzies on my 72. The original ones are
in good condition, they just have ripped ruber in some areas. My question
is wehter they ned to be replaced. This is on a convertible that is garage
kept. What is the function of these things? Also are the repro good quality
and fit? Originality is not important.


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 19:22:31 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: cutlass supreme engine offset

Here's the parts end of things for this thread. GM Oldsmobile parts book
states: 
1) Engine Mounts (PN 406436 are the same for 69-72 400/455 A body and are also
the same (PN 404461) for all small blocks 68-72.
68-72 Assembly Manuals State:
2) Frame mounts are also like the above. Same for all 400/455 68-72, and 350
from 68-72.
3) There were 3 different fan shrouds used from 68-72, 1#- 68 only, 2 69-70
only, and #3 71-72 only. These were variations in reinforcements and could be
interchanged between ALL the years.

        There is NO frame offset for any Oldsmobile A-body! Period. If
there was
(as Joe pointed out) there would HAVE to be a different engine mounting setup
for the offset cars which would have a different part number. Don't know where
all this BS information came from or any documentation of such offset. The few
that said it was offset and closer to the passenger side of the car (a problem
with 455 and A/C) must have the incorrect valve covers on the car. The A-body
455's ALL had the notched valve covers whether it had A/C or not. If these are
not on the car YES there will be clearance problems. Header fit problems are
going to be manufacturer problems or the incorrect engine mounts and pads, not
engine to frame offset.

Jim Chermack




At 10:13 AM 12/16/98 , you wrote:
> All I can think of is that the motor was moved to make clearance for the
>steering shaft.
>________
>
>OH NO!  Here we go again!
>
>Like the search for the mythical solid main web 403, I'll offer a reward
>for anyone who can provide concrete proof (not a quote from Joe M, or
>worse, a repeat of the item in Hot Rod or Car Craft, whichever it was) that
>the Supreme engines were offset.  Are the motor mounts different between a
>Supreme and a Cutlass S?  (No)  Is the steering shaft different?  (No)  Is
>the tranny crossmember different (as it would need to be to make up for
>this offset)?  (No)  Are the exhaust pipes different?  (No)  So where is
>this difference evidenced?
>
>Does someone out there have a parts book that covers the 70-72 cars (mine
>only goes to 69)?  Look up the following for a Supreme (57 body style) and
>a Cutlass S (87 body style) and please tell us if the part numbers are the
>same:
>
>Frame (or better yet, the service replacement front frame section with
>crossmember)
>Frame mounts for engine (be sure to pick a common engine size)
>Rubber motor mounts
>Trans crossmember
>Steering shaft
>Steering center link (would need to be different if the box were offset)
>
>Thanks
>
>Joe (the skeptic) Padavano
>padavano.joe@oribital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 18:28:04 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: PISTON FILLING

Doing all this work to save a set of old pistons reminds me 
of something I saw years ago while doing an engine rebuild.
Someone had used a center punch on the piston skirts to 
"swell" them out to they would fit the block.  Looked like they
took thier time because the laid out a pattern all over the 
skirt and almost looked like they knew what they were doing.
It is hard to imagine the amount of time they spent on those
piston's just to save a couple bucks and have the piston's 
slapping away and burning oil a couple thousand miles 
later.

Just thought I would share a page from "The J Files" (J for 
Jackleg).

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 19:26:21 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Tick Tock Tach

I am looking for a T.T. tach for my '70 442.  Does anyone have a line on one
of these ?  TIA, Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 17:02:38 -0800
From: "Steve Elijah" <selijah@eznet.com>
Subject: faq

I swear I saw a page in the FAQ stating torque specs for various and sundry
parts.  Where is that? Exactly what torque goes to the spark plugs?

72 Vista-Cruiser 350 cid

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 19:04:02 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Re:more bench racing[8000rpm 350]

>Mike,
>  I'm not comparing the  Olds heads to stock[even LT-1] sb chev heads. I
know we hold our own
>there. I'm comparing them to some of the better aftermarket sb heads. I
believe some will flow
>260+cfm int/200+ exh. I don't believe the Olds will match those.
> I think that one would have a better high rpm power potential with the "C"
head on the 350.
>
Understood.  I was comparing the aftermarket heads for the cheby to a
modified set of
5's or 6's.  The Dart, Brodix, and others aren't really all that great out
of the box.  They
seem really great compared to the stock heads because they are POS for the
most
part.  Properly modified, the sb Olds heads would still outflow the ported
aftermarket
heads.  Just by the port cross section (height and width) the Olds heads
have the
edge on the sb cheby aftermarket heads.  Bigger is not always better but by
enlarging
the ports to smooth the flow and the short and long side radius you could
get the "C"
head range out of a set of sb heads without worrying about combustion
chambers.
Only way to know for sure is to get a flow bench and try.  My point is that
the cheby
motors that spin so high don't have large cross section ports.  They are
still fairly
small compared to BB standards.  Flow, not size, matter's so with the sb
heads
you already have the size, you just need the flow.  The cheby heads have a
lot of
research in them to increase flow without a large increase in size.  That's
the key.

Given two heads that flow the same, one with large ports and the other with
small
ports, the one with small ports will make more tractable power.  The large
ports
decreases runner speed and reduces low end power.  Just my point of view
though.

> Also - If you used a 455 piston in a 350, the piston would stick out of
the block. The 350, and
>425 have a C.H. of 1.615", while the 455 has a C.H. of 1.740". Maybe you
used a 425 piston, and
>thought it was a 455?
>
You may very well be right.  Your definately right on the CH's but I can't
find the #'s
for the CH on the 350.  I could have bet money that I ordered 455 .030"
pistons for
it (straight out of the catalog)

> You could only deck the block to about a "0" to +.005 deck at the most.
You need around .040
>combined quench distance. Aren't most olds gaskets around 40 couple thou?
>
My theory goes something like this.  The current gaskets come in around
.045"
while the factory was around .025".  This gives you an extra .020" that you
have
to take out of somewhere to "blueprint" the motor.  You can take it out of
the
head to bring the CR up, but why not take it out of the block?  By taking
the
deck down .020" the head would sit in the factory location.  Further milling
of
the head will keep the quench distance the same but reduce the chamber cc
for a higher CR.  Depending on how much you take out of the head surface
you may have to fly cut the pistons, but if your running a very radical cam
you may have to anyway.  Don't see why it wouldn't work since the head
surface
would actually be sitting in the factory location (hieght above the piston)
anyway
and it would pick you up an extra 1/4 point or so.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 20:12:16 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: UNBOUNCE defined

I just want to say that IF YOU REPLY TO AN "UNBOUNCE" MESSAGE, THE PERSON
WILL NOT SEE YOUR REPLY!
An unbounced message is from someone not on the list and you must reply
privately to the original author of the message, which is not Mr. Greg.
Greg forwards these messages to the list and clearly states that the
original author is not on the list.  Please cut the persons address and
paste it in place of oldsmobile@chebutco.ns.ca in your "to" field!

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 20:09:15 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: PISTON FILLING

In a message dated 12/16/98
 6:<BR30:<BR53 PM Central Standard Ti, mbloomer@gateway.net writes:> Someone
had used a center punch on the piston skirts to 
>  "swell" them out to they would fit the block.  Looked like they
>  took thier time because the laid out a pattern all over the 
>  skirt and almost looked like they knew what they were doing.

Sounds as if that guy knew about knurling the pistons ( a legitimate operation
to extend the life of a set) and didn't have access to a lathe. I once knurled
a piston in a Velocette Venom and honed the bore, ending up with .0035"
clearance...loose for a Velo...and had the fastest stock Velo I've seen before
or since. A bit clattery at idle, though.

I must admire the referenced rebuilder for his initiative and patience. Eight
of 'em, you say :-)

Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 19:16:08 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Heater Blower Relay (a thread off of

>>>> Thanks Andy and Mike for thinking this through with me,
>>>
>>> If you get stuck again, just ship us the car and we'll take a look.
>>
>> Just ship it anyway.  We'll find something to fix
>
>You betcha.
>
>Y'know that rumbling, vroom-vroom noise you hear whenever you start
>the "engine"? (The engine is the thing under the hood.) Big trouble.
>Yessir. Y'know how the car shoots forward whenever you step on the
>pedal on the right? That means you probably got an "accelerator" on
>the engine. We can take care of that right quick. Get it over here.
>We'll call you back when it's ready to be picked up.


Great point!

Just happen to have an extra "decelerator" retrofit kit in the garage.
Bring it over and I'll put it on for free.  Guaranteed to fix all your pesky
"acceleration" problems at once.

Mike B

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 20:18:42 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: No Oldses in Iraq

Wow, I'm real glad that none of those Iraqie's have 442's or anything!

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo
 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 20:25:16 -0500
From: "Mark Thurman" <Thurman@kvnet.org>
Subject: Thanks Gary

Don't know about the rest of you but I cut, pasted, printed & framed Gary's
elegant words to keep me going thru the tough (oldsmobile) times.  Thanks
Gary.  Santa's got a tough act to follow this year.

Happy Holidays all,

M. Thurman
Thurman@kvnet.org

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 20:47:20 -0500
From: Jeff Mullenix <muxx@exis.net>
Subject: Re: 70-72 442 window fuzzies

The reproductions, I think are excellent. For more information and what I
feel are very fair prices contact C&M Classic Parts at ( chermac@exis.net )
or you can call him at 757-474-0869.

                       Jeff

70 / 4spd conv.
72 / Cutlass Supreme
85 / 442

At 06:19 PM 12/16/1998 -0600, you wrote:
>I was looking to replace my window fuzzies on my 72. The original ones are
>in good condition, they just have ripped ruber in some areas. My question
>is wehter they ned to be replaced. This is on a convertible that is garage
>kept. What is the function of these things? Also are the repro good quality
>and fit? Originality is not important.
>
>
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 20:14:04 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 70-72 442 window fuzzies

Depends on what your referring to.  The long strips that run along the top
of
the door panel (inside) and the door itself (outside) are mainly just to
seal
the window.  There are other fuzzies inside the door that guide the glass
and keep it from rattling.  If the "felt" on these comes off the metal
backing
will leave vertical scratches in the window from it scraping as you roll the
window up and down.  The fuzzies at the top of the door aren't that
important, but after a certain point start to look really bad.  The interior
ones are very important to keep from ruining the glass.  The more
inclimate weather driving you do, the more important the fuzzies at the
top of the door are to keep water out of the door.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme



>I was looking to replace my window fuzzies on my 72. The original ones are
>in good condition, they just have ripped ruber in some areas. My question
>is wehter they ned to be replaced. This is on a convertible that is garage
>kept. What is the function of these things? Also are the repro good quality
>and fit? Originality is not important.
>
>
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 20:26:14 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: No Oldses in Iraq

Ray, 
Really, 
Lou

- ----------
> From: Ray Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
> Wow, I'm real glad that none of those Iraqie's have 442's or anything!
> 
> Ray Costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 21:40:27 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: IGOR READ

Igor, I wouldnt mind a link to my page :). Tell ya what, I'll trade ya.
www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z/index.html
Kelly
1966 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 21:50:16 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds in Movies

I'm dumb, what moive has all the *great* cars?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 21:53:57 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: faq

>Exactly what torque goes to the spark plugs?
>


Funny, I've never seen it in writing, other than "finger tight and then
1/16th turn". Doesn't your torque wrench have a "snug" setting ?  ;)

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 21:47:20 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds and F-Bodies

The Poncho would cost $$, the camaro is free, thats my resoning

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 21:56:32 EST
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Cutlass front coil spring replacement/ Hotchkiss

Just a heads up on this particular subject.

Installed Hotchkiss front springs on my '67 Cutlass 400 convert and they were
very unsatisfactory. Lowered the car about 4" in front! Cool looking, but I
couldn't turn the wheels. 

As Hotchkiss is very near to me out here in SoCal, I called them expecting to
have them tell me to come out and get a set of the correct springs. Not so.
Apparently they dont make a proper spring for the Big Block cars, and all the
springs are calibrated for Small Block applications. Works OK for Chevs , but
not for Olds.

They took the springs back without qualm, but I had to get a set of OEM spec
MOOG springs to make the car driveable.

Peter
Coupeking@aol.com
San Pedro, CA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 21:28:13 -0600
From: bloom9@juno.com (C K)
Subject: Re: don't believe (was offset)

Really, if Joe don't know...it don't go!

Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass

On Wed, 16 Dec 1998 11:20:08 -0600 (CST) hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
writes:
>>.  Don't believe everything you read -
>>including stuff I sometimes write!  ;-)
>>
>>Joe Padavano
>>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>>
>>(list of cool cars snipped)
>
>Oh God, what  am I gonna do for information now?
>
>roger hitson
>
>

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 15 Dec 1998 22:40:58 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: dazed and confused

Absolutely the best movie in the known world.  The cars are really nice
too!
Brian.

Gene Gilpin wrote:
> 
>  I'm not sure if this went the first time. I didn't get it back.
> so here 'tis
> >>
> 
> DOE!!!! your probably right he did say turbojet 390 horse didnt he?   oops..
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
> >To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> >Date: Tuesday, December 15, 1998 2:56 AM
> >Subject: Re: Olds in Movies
> >
> >
> >>At 02:36 PM 12/12/98 , you wrote:
> >>>well you are off by a year on the judge its a 70
> >>>396 was right
> 
> -------------------------------------------------
> 
> Ok Here it is for all those that care. I set down last night with a spiked
> beverage and with pen and pad in hand I hit the play button on Dazed and
> Confused.
> In order: (I didn't get "every" one but...):
> '69 C10 Chevy Shortbed - black
> '72 Malibu - brown/white stripes/top
> '66 Mustang Conv. - red
> '57 Plymouth 4dr - forgot to write down color
> '76 Roadrunner - red
> '56 Chevy stepside - lt green
> '74 Ford bronco - teal/blue
> '71 AMC Gremlin - yellow
> '75 Buick Century - brown
> '72 Ford pickup - green
> '73 Duster - primer grey
> '74 GMC pickup - blue
> '64 Chevy pickup - Dk blue
> '6? Buick conv - white
> '72 Ford truck - yellow/white
> '6? Buick 4dr wildcat?? - white
> '7? VW bug - white
> '73 Pontiac T/A - red
> '75 El Camino - black/silver
> '71 Camaro - blue
> '54 Chevy truck - yellow
> '69 Ford truck - green
> '72 Cadillac 4dr hdtp - black
> '74 Cadillac Eldorado - color??
> '70 GTO Judge - orange/black top
> '72 Vette - White
> '67 Plymouth GTX - blue
> '67 Plymouth Fury - blue
> '70 Chevelle SS454 LS5 - black/white stripes .. YES fellows 454
>     4.11 posi out back
>     750 double pumper
>     Edelbrock intake
>     Turbo Jet
>     390 horsepower
>     "We're talkin some f*cken' muscle here"
> '68 Firebird 400 - red
> '68 Ford Torino - color ?
> '7? VW bug conv - white
> '70 Buick Skylark - brown
> '7? VW Bus - color ?
> '7? VW Thing - grey
> '71 Ford Maverick Grabber - red
> '6? Corvair - white
> '6? Corvair - gold
> '71 AMC Ambassador - grey
> '74 Malibu - brown
> '3? Chevy street rod - yellow
> '7? VW Thing - green
> '71 Pontiac T/A - white
> '60 Chrysler - dk brown
> '3? street rod - red
> '71 Olds Cutlass - brown
> '70 Impala - tan
> '69 Buick GS conv. - red
> '72 Cutlass Supreme - gray
> '57 Chevy - blue
> '74 Camaro - primer
> '74 Chevy pickup - red/white
> '70 Mustang - red
> '69 GTO - black
> '63 Grand Prix 421 - lt blue ? or steel grey ?
> '71 Olds Cutlass - lt blue
> '74 Merc Couger - color ??
> '69 Mustang - red
> 
> That's most of 'em
> I recommend this movie. It'll take you back. Bring wobbly pops and you'll
> watch it twice.
> 
> By the way, for those who asked, I'll get the info on that '68 442 TC
> tonight. I talked to the guys wife last night and it's still available.
> 
> later all
> 
> Ed
> The Omega Man
> 
> '74 Omega 455

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 23:15:55 EST
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Motor Mounts [was: Hooker 3202 headers]

In a message dated 12/16/98 6:53:13 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rockman20@yahoo.com writes:

<< 
 Is there any way of determining what mounts are what? If I had a set
 of motor mounts, can I tell if they are SB or BB mounts?
  >>
 When looking at the underside of the B/B mounts there is a  metal tube or
whatever you want to call it that goes from side to side where the motor mount
bolt goes thru as if to add strength to it.

Everett   OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 23:16:47 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Headers repros (Was 442 convert?)

This is only a guess: Maybe because conv. normally need heaeers later
then coupes?
_______

Actually, I was refering to the header bow, which is the front-most
crossmember in the convertible top frame, not exhaust headers.  Sorry for
the confusion; I realize we had two different threads going at the same
time.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 23:13:09 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: cutlass supreme engine offset

Here's the parts end of things for this thread.

<snip the first factual data we've seen on this subject>

Jim Chermack
_________

Thanks, Jim.  That's exactly the type of data I've been looking for.  I'd
really like to drive a stake through this once and for all.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 23:37:35 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds and F-Bodies

In a message dated 12/16/1998 9:56:16 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Gutlass66@aol.com writes:

<< The Poncho would cost $$, the camaro is free, thats my resoning
  >>


Good point
Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 23:32:54 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds and F-Bodies

In a message dated 12/16/1998 4:36:48 PM Eastern Standard Time,
tchurchill@draper.com writes:

<< If y'all re-read what I said, you'll see that I agree with you too.
 Or, you're agreeing with me.  Or something. >>


Erm..... Both....  I think......   Or maybe I don't......  

Anyway, it was just my .02

Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 23:31:51 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: motor mounts

i was just thinking to myself.....  would it be possible to put big block
motor mounts on a g-body cutlass with a 350?  if you did, it would lower the
engine, and also the center of gravity.  i guess youd have to put on a shorter
tranny mount, also.  im thinking there would also be a problem with the crank
pully rubbing on the sway bar, too.  then again, i dont guess big block motor
mounts would change the handling of the car all that much, anyways.  any
thoughts?
jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 21:49:12 -0800
From: mitzm@earthlink.net
Subject: re: engine offset

OK,  I  took a tape measure and flashlight (its 9pm) out to my 70 Cutlass
Supreme Convertible, 350 automatic, and took the following measurements.

From carb screw to fender  edge,  28.5 inches per side.

From  waterpump pulley to fender edge, 30 inches per side.

From center ex man bolt head to shock stud in frame, 6 inches per side.

If this  engine is offset,  its by a hell of alot less than 1 inch!

FWIW



Mitzm@mail.earthlink.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 01:13:40 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: 84 Hurst Olds

I have been asked to list an 84 Hurst Olds for sale.
The car is exquisite.  79,000 miles
Mint interior, Mint body, New Door Rubbers, The restoration to this vehicle
has just been completed.  The  owner had the front seat re - upholstered
cause the cloth was badly sun faded.  Nothing was spared.  The car has new
T/A's new exhaust new everything. .
It has the lightning rod shifter, 307, rally rims, no rust no dents no
scratches.
I personally think it could be entered into a car show just the way it
sits.

I am going to list it on 442.com this weekend, but wanted to offer the car
to  list members first.

$6500 certified. is there asking price, but they told me if I sold it I
could have $500. 
So I am listing it for $6000
Personally I would just like to see it have a happy life.
I am sure I could squeeze out a few $$'s less for any of you all. 

Call me if you have any questions or E me.

Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 01:04:55 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Emissions

Lou,
You still only have to pass at 1975 standards.
It doesn't have to meet today's new car standards.DYeager535@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 12/16/98 2:05:47 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> lbiggs@intertek.net writes:
>
> << All,
>  Live in Illinois, testing in some areas, but not all, we're being included
>  in Jan, 99. Any tricks out there? Heard buy gas with 10% alky, also have
>  some stuff at the parts house says, "Add this and guaranteed to pass", cars
>  all should be in good shape, but with politics who knows. Can't get coll.
>  plates for the 75 till next year. Any suggestions???
>  Lou Biggs
>  lbiggs@intertek.net >>
>
>      Lou, the alcohol works, but you have to get the right type of alcohol.
> MAY need to use it in higher proportion than 10% (friend accidently used 
about
> 50% in his 350, but it still ran) Would be nice to have an emissions 
"sniffer"
> to test different things out. I also believe newer catalytic converters 
reduce
> certain emissions (NOX?) better than the ones that would be on a 75 vintage
> car. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 01:16:43 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: New Parts.

I have an NOS GM 83  -  84 Hurst Olds Lightning Rod shifter sale -- $500

E me privately if interested

thanks

Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 00:56:10 EST
From: DrkSole96@aol.com
Subject: Re: engine offset

Ok, if the engines aren't offset, then why does there seem to be so much more
room on the drivers side vs. the passenger side?  Are the fenderwell's made
differently?

DrkSole96
73 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 01:16:21 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: engine offset

In a message dated 12/16/98 10:08:49 PM Pacific Standard Time,
DrkSole96@aol.com writes:

<< Ok, if the engines aren't offset, then why does there seem to be so much
more
 room on the drivers side vs. the passenger side?  Are the fenderwell's made
 differently?
 
 DrkSole96
 73 Cutlass Supreme >>

     Not to make this any worse, of course : ) , but if the engine is offset,
then so is the transmission, which would mean the distance from the drivers
side door to the center of the transmission tunnel would be different than the
passenger side. Easily checked I would think. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 01:29:42 EST
From: CarJackTX@aol.com
Subject: Kenne-Bell Oldsmobile

I ran across an old Kenne-Bell Oldsmobile Performance catalog and would like
to know if they are still around? The phone number on the catalog is no longer
valid.  Thanks, Jack
71 Cutlass conv

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 01:22:30 -0600 (CST)
From: Kimberly Ann Wandrey <kaw0006@jove.acs.unt.edu>
Subject: 330/350 swap & more '64 questions

Hi Guys and Gals!

I have more questions regarding the '64 Olds F-85 I am thinking about
purchasing for me to drive everyday. 

1. The original motor is a 330 that I plan to switch out to a 350.
 Will accessories from a 330 bolt onto a 350? Or will I have to
buy 350 accessories? 

2. The original tranny is a 2-speed automatic, and will a 350 bolt up to
it? Will that tranny be able to handle the (help! Im not sure of wording
here!) torque (?) of a 350? The tranny seemed to be in good shape. 

3. If the 350 will not bolt up to the two speed, how hard will it be to
swap from the two speed automatic to a turbo 350? 

OK guys, I helped in the rebuilding of Junior's 350, but have not taken on
the task of swapping motors (and possibly trannies) like this before. Are
there any other possible problems I could run into or things I need to
consider? 

Thanks so much in advance! :) 

BTW: As for the thread about girlfriends/wives not understanding about our
old car/Oldsmobile hobby: I have the opposite problem! My Dad and SO do
not understand me! What a concept...

Thanks bunches in advance!

Much love and Happy Holidays,
Kim & Junior ('72 Cutlass Supreme)
Dallas, Texas

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 02:07:45 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 330/350 swap & more '64 questions

This won't be so much a swap as a replacement.  The brackets
should be all the same and bolt up perfect.  The only thing you'll
have to swap is if you go from 2v carb to 4v or single exhaust
to duals.  If you keep everything the same between the two motors
it would be just like putting another 330 in it.

My 68 has a 2 speed w/a 350 so as long as the trans is in good
shape and the 350 isn't radical it should live.  Swapping to a 
TH350 would entail switching from the electric solenoid 
kickdown of the Jetaway to the vacuum operated setup of the 
TH350.  BTW make sure the TH350 is the short tailshaft 
version, that way the driveshaft will bolt up unmodified.  The 
other issue is the shifter.  That can take some fiddling but 
whether it's on the column or floor you can still adjust it to 
work for P,R,N,D, and L so that the 2speed's L will be second 
on the 3 speed and you may not be able to select first.

I would suggest running the 350 with the 2 speed, at least 
until it blows that way you can work out any bugs, if any, from
the engine swap before tackling the trans swap problems.

Good luck,
Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 03:16:24 EST
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Pair of '56 88's-Los Angeles

Making the rounds yesterday afternoon and found in a local 'donation' yard a
pair of '56 Olds 88 2 doors. Obviously the two were designed to be built into
one car, and was somebody's now abandoned project.
Both cars pretty dry, being LA cars and all. One with motor and one without.
Most trim, straight bodies but one car needed floorboards. Bumpers,
headlights. One with radio. Pair of new fibreglass fender skirts in the back
seat of one. Most trim there.

Not my cup 'o tea--at least not this month. But if somebody's looking for some
parts or a parts car these aren't bad. Could probably pick up the pair of cars
for under $1000. If interested E me direct and I'll put you together with the
place. Move fast or Memory Lanes will snag 'em.

Peter 
Coupeking@aol.com
San Pedro, CA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 02:25:04 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 330/350 swap & more '64 questions

I'm sorry but it is late.  I meant to say that the TH 350 uses a 
cable kickdown while the Jetaway uses an electric solenoid
w/a switch mounted on the accelerator pedal.  Don't know 
how I threw the vacuum modulator in there.  OK, I'll shut up
now before I say something else stupid.

Mike B

>  Swapping to a 
>TH350 would entail switching from the electric solenoid 
>kickdown of the Jetaway to the vacuum operated setup of the 
>TH350

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 06:20:42 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 1961 Oldsmobile Limousine

Any limo fans out there? Respond to heffmeier@email.msn.com if you can
assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Jeff Meier" <heffmeier@email.msn.com>
Subject: 1961 Oldsmobile Limousine

I have just acquired a 1961 Oldsmobile Limousine in very good condition and
am looking for any information which may help me determine the value.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
email to: heffmeier@msn.com
Thank-You

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 06:20:13 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: engine offset

        This elusion is because all the A/C crap is hung on the passenger side
of the engine. 

Jim Chermack

At 12:56 AM 12/17/98 , you wrote:
>Ok, if the engines aren't offset, then why does there seem to be so much more
>room on the drivers side vs. the passenger side?  Are the fenderwell's made
>differently?
>
>DrkSole96
>73 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 06:21:41 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: engine offset

Dorion 

        You are correct and they are not different. Carpets would then be
different too and the seats would have one closer to the console and one would
be further away.

Jim Chermack

At 01:16 AM 12/17/98 , you wrote:
>In a message dated 12/16/98 10:08:49 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>DrkSole96@aol.com writes:
>
><< Ok, if the engines aren't offset, then why does there seem to be so much
>more
> room on the drivers side vs. the passenger side?  Are the fenderwell's made
> differently?
> 
> DrkSole96
> 73 Cutlass Supreme >>
>
>     Not to make this any worse, of course : ) , but if the engine is offset,
>then so is the transmission, which would mean the distance from the drivers
>side door to the center of the transmission tunnel would be different than the
>passenger side. Easily checked I would think. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 16 Dec 1998 22:12:44 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Olds and F-Bodies

Way back in my feckless youth I, I am proud to say, had a Vega.  A silver
Sport Wagon, black bucket seat interior, four speed, gauge package.  Here
comes Olds content. Discarded iron duke four banger in favor of aluminum V-8
salvaged from a little 63 Jetfire found in a junqueyard.  The transplant
weighed, if memory serves here, 40 pounds more that the impotent 4 banger.
Yes, children, (A booger drops from one nostril, eyes rheumy, hands
gnarled ) that was a cute little car.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, December 16, 1998 5:15 PM
Subject: Re: Olds and F-Bodies


>Joe,
>Don't mention Vegas.
>Lou
>(Snip)
>> platform (the Vega).  The car was pretty cool, and had a large, removable
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 07:28:46 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: re: engine offset (Measured my '72 convertible)

FYI

The engine is out of my '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible.  Measured the
distance of each of the motor mount frame pads (the ones for a 350) in
relation to the center of the front cross member of the frame.  I used a
plump level to make sure I was dead center(there's even a convenient hole
drilled in the center).  I also used the same method for the top of the
shocks on either side.

In each case each side measured the same.  Therefore I conclude no offset
for this car.

jp

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 09:01:50 -0500
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: No Oldses in Iraq

Ray C. Observes:

> Wow, I'm real glad that none of those Iraqie's have 442's or anything!

No, but didn't they get a buncha those Iraqibus?  Maybe they melted 'em
down to make anti-aircraft shell casings...

Olds content (sorta):  As of today, Dec. 17th, the Boston area has broken
the allt-time record for going the latest into the season w/o snowfall.

I guess I put Big Red into hibernation way too early, 'cuz I coulda actually
taken a top-down drive yesterday for my B-day.  Usually I only get to just
shovel a path over to the car to look at it :P

BTW, I hung my Hallmark Olds H/O ornament -- purchased 1/2 price the day after
Xmas last year -- proudly on the Xmas tree this past weekend!

Tim Churchill  tchurchill@draper.com  OCA #30327  Framingham, MA
- ----------------------------------------------------------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, new a.k.a 'Old Gold'
'98 VW Passat GLS Wagon, a.k.a. 'der Kinderwagen'

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 06:11:56 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: battery size

I have a 1200/850cca battery in my Olds. I use to have a 850cca bat,
but my engine was pretty tight after I rebuilt it. Once the engine
would get good and warm, that poor battery was pissing everything it
had to get that engine to crank. Now, I don't have to worry. Below
zero or 180 degrees, it will still crank very well. Moral? Go with as
big of a bat as possible.


> > The battery in my '72 Cutlass died recently and am curious
> >what size (cca) others use. I've looked at stores, but they
> >don't really categorize old cars well. The engine is a 350.
> >I live in Tx so cold weather isn't a big issue. The car's
> >driven once a week or so, weather permitting.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >Don
> >72 Cutlass Conv
> >91 Calais I-Series
> >
> 
> 

==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 08:50:21 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: faq

>>Exactly what torque goes to the spark plugs?
>>
>
>
>Funny, I've never seen it in writing, other than "finger tight and then
>1/16th turn". Doesn't your torque wrench have a "snug" setting ?  ;)
>
>drc
>
Mr. Joe (M) says 35 ft/lb, which always pisses off my mechanic when he goes 
to pull a plug.  He says things like, "Damn, I gotta get the breaker bar to 
get the plugs out."

35 ft/lb does seem ridiculously tight for spark plugs, but I sometimes 
foolishly follow directions. 

roger

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 06:50:01 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: engine offset

> At 12:56 AM 12/17/98 , you wrote:
> >Ok, if the engines aren't offset, then why does there seem to be so
much more
> >room on the drivers side vs. the passenger side?  Are the
fenderwell's made
> >differently?
> >
- -----------------------------------------------------

Hopefully this will put an end to this thread. I have a 69 Olds
Cutlass S. The reason why it seems so cluttered on the passenger side
is due to all the AC crap. When I got my car, the whole AC housing was
broken. I stuck some metal off the firewall about 2 inches out and
then I fiberglassed the whole front. Now I have amazing room on the
passenger side. The driver side actually looks cluttered now, with
that steering shaft and power steering pump, alternator, etc. It is
all just an illusion.

Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 06:56:30 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: AM Radio is killing me! WTB '76 AM/FM Cassette!

> I would like to find an original Delco AM/FM Stereo Cassette
> for my '76.

Ummm... it's been a long time since I owned my '76 Supreme, but I
seem to remember something a little different about the dash opening
around the stereo... maybe the front panel was unusually thick...?
Anyway, there was something about it that made aftermarket stereo 
installations a little more tricky than usual. Have you taken out
the AM unit yet? Does the factory radio take special knobs with 
extra-deep shafts on them, or something like that?

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 17 Dec 1998 06:56:12 -0800
From: "Mike Jones" <mike@gleep.com>
Subject: Camshaft selection, 350 V8    (LONG!)

	Would like to put a cam in my '78 Delta 88 (350/TH350/102k).  Currently
has an Edelbrock Performer intake, 2.5" single mandrel bent exhaust, Stock
Q-jet, stock trans/ 2.41 rearend.  I know I wanna keep under .490 lift and
230 @ 0.05 duration.  
 
Had these cams in mind..

1972 240hp 2 Bbl.  Auto. Trans.      (Factory cam) 

PN# 				402487
Advertized Duration:		262/274
Lift:				.440/.440
Intake/Exhaust valve opens	22/68
Intake/Exhaust valve closes	60/26
Overlap				48

Crane 248 Powermax for emissions controlled vehicles

PN#					PowerMax H-192/2667-2S-10
Duration @ 0.050  (int/exh)		192/204
Adv. duration (int/exh)			248/260
lobe seperation				110
Open/close @ 0.050 cam lift (int./exh)	(9)/21
					37/(13)
Gross Lift (int/exh)			.427/.456

Crane 260 Powermax for emissions controlled vehicles

PN#					PowerMax H-260-2
Duration @ 0.050 (int/exh)			204/216
Adv. duration (int/exh)			260/272
lobe seperation				112
Open/close @ 0.050 cam lift (int/exh)	(5)/29
					45/(9)
Gross Lift (int/exh)			.456/.485

Crower Power Compu-Pro Hydraulic (level 2)

PN#					52620
Grind/lobe centers			260HDP/112
adv. dur (int/exh)				260/266
Dur @ 0.050 (int/exh)			203/213
Lift (int/exh)				.448/.450


That's about all that I can think of now for the camshaft.
This car is driven mostly on the city streets, sometimes in 2nd gear to
cheat the motor into thinking it has a 3.73+ ratio in the rearend.  Most of
all, this automobile is registered in California, and may have to pass a
smog test before May of '99.  I need to keep this in mind, hence some of
the mild grinds.  That and this motor has 100k on it too.  Don't want to
waste the valvesprings quite yet.
 
Thank you ahead of time.
 
Mike Jones
'78 Delta (350/TH350/102k)

		

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1671
*********************************

