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cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1660


oldsmobile-digest      Friday, December 11 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1660



RE: Heater controls
Re: '85 Cutlass Electrical Problem
Lightning Rods Shifters.
Re: Oldsmobile in the movies. WW and the Dixie Dance Kings?
Re: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST
Is there anyone else out there with a 73 Olds Cutlass 455/4spd
Re: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST
head warping
Re: bad day/hubs,studs and lug nuts
Re: Conv top patches
LIGHTENING RODS
th200c woes
Re: 68 12 bolt
Re: th200c woes
Need Advice: 307 vs others
Re: 70  supreme parts car answered
Re: th200c woes
feedback on "power steering services, inc" 
Re: bad day/hubs,studs and lug nuts
Re: another heating ? /sorry guys
Re: head warping
Re: th200c woes
poured heat risers / cut head back
Re: th200c woes
Need 455 motor
Re: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST
Re: th200c woes
Re: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST
Re: [Re: 70  supreme parts car answered]
Re: poured heat risers / cut head back
Re: [Re: 70  supreme parts car answered]
Engine Problems
Re: Wondering if i got a good price
Re: LIGHTENING RODS
Re: heads up display
Re: Paint Schemes
Re: Paint Schemes
Re: Engine Problems
OL4B and HEI clearance
Re: Engine Problems
UNBOOUNCE: feedback on "power steering services, inc"
UNBOUNCE: Re: welding exhaust divider/milling exhausts 
RE: '85 Cutlass Electrical Problem
RE: LIGHTENING RODS
oldsmobile service
'70 A/C Wiring
RE: Need Advice: 307 vs others
Re: head warping
Re: head warping
Re: another heating ? /sorry guys
Re: OL4B and HEI clearance
Re: head warping
Re: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs
Re: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST
Re: 68 442 ?
Re: Oldsmobile in the movies. WW and the Dixie Dance Kings?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 08:37:23 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Heater controls

> Headlight switch - after unscrewing the bezel or ring as you called
> it, you'll have to look at the back side of the switch.  There is a
> little button that must be depressed and then the on/off knob with
> shaft can be removed and the switch will come out the back.

One little gotcha with this procedure: The headlight knob must be
pulled out all the way to the On position _before_ pressing the
release button or it won't let go of the knob and shaft.

- -- Andy


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 08:50:18 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: '85 Cutlass Electrical Problem

> I'm a new member and have a specific electrical problem. My 17 year
> old was installing a new stereo in my '85 Cutlass and he pulled a
> Climate Control light bulb and attached a voltmeter to it to see if
> he could hook the stereo light up to it.

It depends on what sort of lighting the stereo has. If it uses an
incandescent light bulb like the old ones and the stereo's lighting
wire is labeled "TO DASH LIGHTS" or something like that, he can do
this; tapping into any solid-gray wire behind the dash will be fine.
If it's a digital unit with the same kind of feed wire, he should
still be fine; in this case the unit "senses" voltage on the gray
circuit and dims its display to match. He shouldn't be using that
gray wire as a power supply for the stereo, that's all.

> Now none of the dash lights work but the fuses in the fuse box all
> look good.  Any idea what could be wrong?

Uh-oh. Are you sure you checked _all_ the fuses? Fiddling with just
one wire would have to have blown a fuse before you could affect all
the lighting. Also (maybe just by coincidence) shorting an exterior
lighting circuit such as a taillamp will usually knock out your dash
lighting as well, since it takes its feed from the exterior circuit
(presumably as a means of signalling you that your exterior lights
are dead).

You might want to make sure you still have your exterior lighting;
if not, your problem is out there somewhere. (BTW, none of this 
involves the headlamps, which have their own power supply through 
a circuit breaker.)

> One other thing.  I'm a drag racer at heart.  This little 307
> with 140 hp doesn't have a lot of oomph.  But from what I've read,
> it's a strong little block.  What can we do to get it some power?

Sigh... maybe your convertor's partially clogged by now; been there,
done that. I remember driving an '85 just like yours when it was new
and it was pretty zippy.

- -- Andy


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 12:03:59 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Lightning Rods Shifters.

Here is Hurst response to Hurst having Lightning Rods shifters in stock



- -----Original Message-----
From:	Joe Young 
Sent:	Friday, December 11, 1998 9:14 AM
To:	'gjcouse@francomm.com'
Subject:	RE: Lightning Rods Shifters.


Sorry, we no longer stock or manufacturer those shifters.

- ----------
From: 	<GJC> CC-IROC-SS
Sent: 	Thursday, December 03, 1998 5:16 PM
To: 	tech@mrgasket.com
Subject: 	Lightning Rods Shifters.

I understand that you still produce the Olds era Lightning Rods shifter.
I've been told part numbers are,

#385-0006
and
#385-0009

I have not found them referenced on your site. Please advise as to
availability and price please. I may have interest in many sets for the
CC-IROC-SS conversion project.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 11:49:15 -0600
From: cdemps@lsumc.edu (Dempsey, Charles)
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile in the movies. WW and the Dixie Dance Kings?

CCRR12@aol.com wrote:

> The story of the car in the movie was that is was the "Golden 
> Anniversary Rocket" Special Edition. 

That's it! I couldn't quite remember.

Early this year I was searching one of the on-line sales papers and
found an ad for a 1955 Golden Anniversary Oldsmobile. It bothered me
because there was no mention of this car in my books. In fact,
Oldsmobile celebrated their 50th anniversary in 1957 with the release of
the Golden Rocket which was the base level 88 for that year. Eventually
I decided that it was a typo and they really meant 1957.

Did Olds also release a Golden Anniversary car in 1955 as well? I'm
going to see if I can find my notes and give those people a call. I
probably blew the deal of the century.

If you find out more please let me know.

Charles

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 10:46:09 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST

>I just joined the last a week ago and can't believe all this mail.  You
mean
>there was more than this?


I could be just going nuts, but I can swear that there was a fair bit more
mail.  Like Ray said, it is probably the G-body list.  I can say that there
is lots new people but some of the old guys (like DR. Robert Barry, what
ever happened to him) have left.  Anyway, I still say that there is LESS
mail.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 12:59:54 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Is there anyone else out there with a 73 Olds Cutlass 455/4spd

  I would like to exchange info. about those cars.You can see my car at
442.com carshow area..my e-mail is rare73olds@aol.com    Thanks , Harry 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 11:14:01 -0600
From: "Paul L. Brillhart" <u17058@uicvm.uic.edu>
Subject: Re: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST

At 10:46 AM 12/11/98 -0700, you wrote:
>
>>I just joined the last a week ago and can't believe all this mail.  You
>mean
>>there was more than this?
>
>
>I could be just going nuts, but I can swear that there was a fair bit more
>mail.  Like Ray said, it is probably the G-body list.  I can say that there
>is lots new people but some of the old guys (like DR. Robert Barry, what
>ever happened to him) have left.  Anyway, I still say that there is LESS
>mail.
> 

  There was the same corresponding decrease during the same time last year.
 However, you are right in that Bob Barry and Chris Witt are AWOL.  On the
positive side, so is the "whiz", if you've been on long enough to remember
him.  Haven't heard much form Bob Handren or Jim Chermac either.  I'd value
their input on my doing up my heads(heat risers and exhaust divider), but
others with experience have filled in nicely.  Also, it's good to have Greg
Rollins input added to the list.  Overall, things will pick up in January
when half of us have our cars in storage and are doing engine work.  Later.


 Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 13:24:57 -0500
From: "Kevin Grover" <Atvman@rochester.rr.com>
Subject: head warping

How long would you have to run an engine without any coolant to warp the
heads.  We'll use a 68 olds 350 as the engine, and just have the engine
idling.  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 12:01:46 -0700
From: karoe@us.ibm.com
Subject: Re: bad day/hubs,studs and lug nuts

Sorry, dont know where this thread got started. If this is an A-Body car,
the drums are 9.5"  x 2". (Unless its a wagon , then 9.5" x 2.5")  You can
find non-wagon drums in every boneyard in america and lots of them as yet
unturned. Any brake shop can get them for you as well as any auto parts
store (Pep Boys, AutoZone, Chief, Checker etc.). NAPA was mentioned and I
think that $70 is a bit high for these drums. That size is one of the most
popular size drums ever and was found on lots of cars throughout the '80s.
If you got a good U-Pull-It, Pick-A-Part or some such, you might even find
the desireable Aluminum ones. I give $11 a piece for drums at the bone
yard, aluminum or iron.

Kyle

<snip>
> Go to the yard with specs on what the maximum diameter of the drum can
>be and a means of measuring them.

 (Number is on stamped on the outside of the drum)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 12:09:26 -0700
From: karoe@us.ibm.com
Subject: Re: Conv top patches

>Just a thought...........instead of candle wax, go to a camping supply
store
 >and buy a tube of the sealer they use on nylon tents to waterproof the
 >seams. It'll probably last longer than the wax.

Randy might be onto something here with the 'seam sealer' idea. While
you're at the camping store, find some
'Tent Patch' material. Comes in different widths and colors and is sticky
backed. If you dont have an EMS or REI or some such, try contacting
'Campmore' ; they're out of N.J. and 800 directory asst. will have the
number.
One more thought, You could try a fabric store (like JoAnne's or SoFro).
Dont laugh too loud yet..... There are
patches at some places, comes in a pack in a variety of colors, that are
press on (rather than iron on). Used them to repair several ski coats,
pants and such with amazingly durable lasting results.

Kyle
'70 442 Ragtop



Randy

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 14:25:00 -0500
From: "Trey W Taufmann" <trey.taufmann@gfii.com>
Subject: LIGHTENING RODS

I WANT TO PUT A CONSOLE AND LIGHTENING ROD SHIFTERS FROM AN '84 H/O INTO
MY '87 CUTLASS.  WILL THERE BE ANY PROBLEMS HOOKING IT UP TO THE TH200
OD TRANSMISSION??

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 11:40:32 -0800
From: andrewc@novell.uidaho.edu
Subject: th200c woes

A while ago I introduced myself as the proud new owner of a pristine '84 
delta 88 coupe. On a recent road trip, it appears that my transmission is 
on its way out. Here's the deal: On the last 3rd of a 6-hour drive, I was 
going up a MAJOR hill here in Idaho (a few miles - whitebird pass). The 
car seemed to be lugging a bit and I didn't feel like 'flooring' it to 
maintain 
speed on the grade so I dropped it into 'L2' for the duration of the hill. 
This seemed like a good idea as the temp guage dropped a few degrees 
with the decreased load on the engine. Also, rpms went from 1800 to 
2500 or so at 50 mph, nothing I would consider 'severe'. Well, after going 
thru the next town and slowing down, etc and accelerating back to 
cruising speed, the tranny got stuck in 1st, then fairly hardly went into 
2nd at around 3000 rpm. It then stayed in 2nd for the remainder of the 
drive until I decided to push it to 70mph in second (I think the tach may 
have gone to 3500 rpm +/-), where it went hard into 3rd and all was well - 
until I had to slow down again. Immediately after this stuck in 2nd 
happened, I stopped to check the fluid. It looked ok but had a FEW 
bubbles in it - not foamy or anything. Pulling out after stopping for the 
check - same thing: stuck in 1st to high rpm, hard into second - stays in 
second unless taken to high rpm. I drove in second for an hour until I 
thought of punching it up to see what would happen (it would go into 
3rd). Nothing quite like going 50 in a 65 for extended periods! 

The next day driving to work - it did the same thing. In stop/go driving it 
also does some other interesting things. It downshifts hard too soon 
also. When it is in 'D', it will act like its in second, but when letting off 
on 
the gas, acts more like its in neutral. Hitting the gas again, and the rpms 
increase until it hits the speed it should be were it in gear and acts like 
it's 
in gear. Also, shifts seem to be very 'soft', or hard depending on load.

Now some history. A week after I bought the car, my sig. other was 
driving and we ended up behind a farm truck going down a big hill. She 
was riding the brakes so I said to drop it into L1. No problem.... well, we 
finished with the downhill stretch and got on the highway again. When 
she went to put it back in 'D', She accidently went past 'D' and to reverse -
 we were going about 30 in the forward direction. The tranny made some 
odd clicking noises but no spectacular clunks or anything - her foot 
must've been off the gas. Right after this happened - the tranny behaved 
similar to the situation that happened to me on the pass. But, the next 
day - it was FINE. This was several months ago.

The details: 307Y with TH200C tranny. 84,000 miles. Is my tranny toast? 
Easily (inexpensively) fixed? If it is toast - would I be better off with an 
overdrive? I also have a potential donor TH350 from a beater chevy. I 
have heard that there are adapter plates available. Any insight/ideas/info 
would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 11:42:32 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: 68 12 bolt

mbloomer wrote:
> 
> OK, one more question.  Since all I want to do is have
> a limited slip and 3.43's I'm thinking of using the 8.5"
> "corporate" 10 bolt.  My main reason is they're easy
> to find and cheap.  This is going to be a street car
> so I don't need the extra strength (or expense) of a
> 12 bolt.  Will the 10 bolt yoke match up?  What year
> did they start the using the corporate 10 bolt?  If
> the yoke doesn't match up I can just use the driveshaft
> out of the same car the rearend came out of (given
> that its up to '72) right?  Yeah, I know its 3 questions
> so sue me.  :)
> 
> Mike B
> mbloomer@gateway.net


Mike,
The "corporate" A body BOP (10 bolt) of 71-72 vintage, 
is a direct bolt-in for your 68.  Due to the 
longer axle centerline to companion flange of
the 71-72 unit, you will need to use the
driveshaft from the donor car (provided of
course, equipped with the same trans., 2 door, etc.).  
These use the same U-joint as the earlier models.
The 71-72 Chevelle units still have the goofy
C-clip setup.  And the smaller U-joint.    
Having admittedly limited knowledge of the
71-72 C type, I couldn't say for sure if the
axle centerline to flange distance is different
or not.  But I would imagine with the proper
driveshaft, it too would be a bolt-in.


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Web site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 15:10:09 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: th200c woes

In a message dated 12/11/98 2:49:18 PM Eastern Standard Time,
andrewc@novell.uidaho.edu writes:

<< Now some history. A week after I bought the car, my sig. other was 
 driving and we ended up behind a farm truck going down a big hill. She 
 was riding the brakes so I said to drop it into L1. No problem.... well, we 
 finished with the downhill stretch and got on the highway again. When 
 she went to put it back in 'D', She accidently went past 'D' and to reverse -
  we were going about 30 in the forward direction. The tranny made some 
 odd clicking noises but no spectacular clunks or anything - her foot 
 must've been off the gas. Right after this happened - the tranny behaved 
 similar to the situation that happened to me on the pass. But, the next 
 day - it was FINE. This was several months ago. >>

i did the same thing with my th350 TWICE!  column shifts are no good for
racing, im telling you.  anyways, my 350 was fine, all it did was lockup the
back tires, and the engine cut off.  i cranked it back up, and it drove fine
after each time i did it.  this was a rebuilt tranny with about 20-30,000
miles on it.  but, were not dealing with a 350 tranny here. seems like it
could be fixable, tho, since it shifts HARD into the next gear.  maybe its
something like the kickdown cable or something.  possibly something in the
valvebody.....?
jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 15:34:16 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Need Advice: 307 vs others

Hello Oldsmofolks,

	My roomate is in a pickle. He has a 1982 B*ick Electra 4 dr. with an
Olds 307 Y motor in it and wants to "restore" it. Basically, he just
wants to clean it up and make it look presentable, he says it has lots
of miles on it. What would be best as far as engine types vs. overall
efficiency? I may not be correct, but I told him that if he found a 350
and built it right, he would get better performance, gas mileage, and
efficiency over a 307. I know the 307s are very restrictive and not very
many people desire them. But I am NOT sure, because of this fact, that a
350 would be a better engine for his application. Can you guys help us?
- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***************************
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 V-8 4 bbl)
1975 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (250 I-6 1 bbl)
1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (350 V-8 2 bbl)
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4 bbl)
*******************************************
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 15:31:26 EST
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: 70  supreme parts car answered

 do you have any sport mirrors???

jeff  770  723-9345

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 15:51:01 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: th200c woes

In a message dated 12/11/98 1:49:18 PM Central Standard Time,
andrewc@novell.uidaho.edu writes:


<< A while ago I introduced myself as the proud new owner of a pristine '84 
 delta 88 coupe. On a recent road trip, it appears that my transmission is 
 on its way out. >>

   Rea you still proud? That's all that matters!...haha, just a joke!

<< the tranny got stuck in 1st, then fairly hardly went into 
 2nd at around 3000 rpm. It then stayed in 2nd for the remainder of the 
 drive until I decided to push it to 70mph in second (I think the tach may 
 have gone to 3500 rpm +/-), where it went hard into 3rd and all was well - 
 until I had to slow down again. >>

   I would guess that it is either the vacuum line going to the vacuum
modulator is clogged or leaking, or the vacuum modulator itself is faulty.
Neither of these are very exspensive to fix.

Collyn Eastham
65 Cutlass
65 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 12:45 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: feedback on "power steering services, inc" 

   Anyone have any experience with a company called "power steering 
services, inc", that's based in Springfield, MO ? The company website 
advertises GM steering gear rebuilds and fast ratio conversions for GM 
A-bodies at a price much lower ($199) than the same service from  
Global West, Lee, and a few other sources I checked out which charge 
more like $500. I'm wondering if anyone has used this company and if 
so what their experience with their products and service has been.

Thanks for any info you might have on this.

- -John Carri

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 15:20:55 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: bad day/hubs,studs and lug nuts

Chris, 
I meant (tack welded good), didn't know I had to explain, inert gas in
about four spots, and if someone doesn't overtighten them they should last
about 100 years, give or take a another 100.
Lou
- ----------
> From: Semantana Chris (ONEX) <SemantanaC@tce.com>
> To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject: RE: bad day/hubs,studs and lug nuts
> Date: Friday, December 11, 1998 8:10 AM
drums off the hubs because all the tack welds broke and the stud just fell
> out of the hubs.  If I had to remove the lug nuts, the studs would be
> spinning and I think I would still be struggling with them (I bought them
> over 2 years ago)
> 
 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 16:21:22 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: Re: another heating ? /sorry guys

Todd

I've scanned a pictorial view of the heater/ac setup that shows wiring in
relationship to components and I've also scanned a schematic of the
heater/ac wiring.  I've sent these to you privately as JPEGs.  If you don't
receive them e-mail me privately and we can figure out something.

Meanwhile check Mike B's (mbloomer@gateway.net) reply as he describes some
good points to follow.  What comes to mind for me is I wonder if you have
the resistor in the circuit.  When you tore apart the original AC box you
might have noticed it.  See the Wire#01.jpg I sent you.  Did you make a
place for it when you fashioned the metal box?

hope this helps,

jp

BTW - don't know if you got $40-50 (I'm guessing here) to spare, but a
chassis service manual is worth it's weight in gold for these types of
pesky conundrums.  (it's where I got the diagrams I sent you)

>i have some ? for ya if u dont mind ok i know it has been asked before and
>im sorry guys i have 72 cutlass supreme it had ac i put a 455 in place of
>the 350 so the ac had to go along with the big ac blower case, i made a box
>out of sheet metal that just covers the square box that goes in the fire
>wall into the inside of the car it has what looks like a flapper door type
>thingy hehe sorry i hope u can under stand me i left the blower motor where
>it was what i did is i took a saw and cut the big ac box off but left the
>part where the blower motor is i then took some hose kinda like a hose that
>a shop vacume has i then put it to the box i made that covers the flapper
>door thingy hehe what i did was cut a round hole into the box i made and
>pushed the hose into it then i sealed it useing some silicon then i ran the
>hose back to where the blower motor is and did the same to it useing part
>of the old box it looks really nice its not hacked up i have had lots of
>ppl tell me how well they thought i had done it by useing my head BUT. i
>havent got it hooked up yet as in the wireing i was going to use the old ac
>wireing to hook it up IF I CAN ??? i pluged the big purplewire into the
>blower motor like i should be then it runs into this like realay looking
>thing on the fire wall which has a plug with 3 wires in it then there is a
>second plug that goes into that realay looking thing also that goes in
>through the fire wall from what i can see but i dont work so far do u know
>if im doing this rite or will i need some other wires ment for a no ac car
>? hope u can under stand this but i just dont know some of the names for
>things yet ,any help would be great
>
>Todd
>72 cutlass supreme
>74 442
>
>todd@wvadventures.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 15:31:55 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: head warping

Kevin, 
Subjective question, "like how far is up", many, many variables, molecular
structure of the metal, torque on the heads, type of gasket, ratio of
fuel/air mixture, etc, etc, etc. Tough to answer. No flame intended, one
minute to 1000 hrs or longer.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
- ----------
> From: Kevin Grover <Atvman@rochester.rr.com>
> To: Oldsmobile mailing list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: head warping
> Date: Friday, December 11, 1998 12:24 PM
> 
> How long would you have to run an engine without any coolant to warp the
> heads.  We'll use a 68 olds 350 as the engine, and just have the engine
> idling.  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 16:31:33 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: th200c woes

Andrew,

Easiest long term solution is to get a BOP pattern TH 350.  This is a more
or less direct bolt in in place of the 200C.  The only hassle is getting the
right downshift cable.

As for inexpensive fixes for the 200C, there is a possibility that the cable
that regulates shifting (runs from trans to carb) is sticking.  Check it for
freedom of movement.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 16:34:14 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: poured heat risers / cut head back

> Hello,

 Paul Brillhart asked about filling the heat risers, and cutting back the 
header side of the head. Here's my 2
cents;

I melt old cast pistons in a flea market cast iron skillet. I lay the head 
intake side down on a steel plate, and
preheat the head to 150 f.  I pour the molten aluminum into a little fixture 
[trough] made from 1X1 angle iron
that i stick into one of the bowls. I pour it in until it runs out both bowls. 
I've done several sets of heads,
and the cast aluminum has held up well, even on daily drivers.

 On a former daily driver [79 toro w 77 403] i wanted a little heat for the 
carb, so i inserted a piece of 1/2"
e.m.t.[conduit] into one of the bowls on one head. I stuck the conduit down 
through one bowl, and let it stick up
out of the bowl, while i poured through the other bowl. Once i poured, i was 
able to grind down through the alum
on the intake side, and find the end of the conduit. A bit of grinding was 
needed to cut of the section sticking
into the bowl. This way i had a little heat from one exhaust port going to the 
carb area.

On my 64 Cutlass[461"] I cut my exhaust side back .175". This was enough to 
create a gasket area apx .125" wide
between the center ports.

Optional -You can also grind the roof higher until you have only about .1875" 
from the top of the port to the top
[outside] surface of the head. This makes it harder to match the header, but 
it will help flow, as it takes some
of the downhill slope out of the roof. You can slot the bolt holes on the 
header with a die grinder, or weld them
shut/redrill to raise the header up to help the port match the header.

BTW  Dave Smith once told me that pouring the heat risers and cutting the 
exhaust side back/raising the roof is
worth 40 hp on a 455.
 The best part is it gets rid of that sh*tty Olds/Pontiac exhaust sound.

Dave Brode
64 Cutlass 3650# w/driver 11.66@119.96 in street trim, 10.3-1 461, poured 
heatrisers/cut back exh side

> Ken,
>
>   I'll have the heads milled flush.  Two questions:
>         1. How much area is wide enough to support the gasket?"
>         2. What do you mean by grinding the bottom of the flange?
>
> Also, for all those out there, filling/brazing the center heat riser:
>
>         1. Zinc alloy or aluminum pistons to fill it?
>         or
>         2. Braze/weld it shut?
>
>   Thanks.
>
>   Paul Brillhart
>
> -

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 16:42:28 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: th200c woes

Andrew,

Forgot to mention, 200C does not use a vacuum modulator.  If you elect to
swap in a TH 350, you will need the metal vacuum line that runs from a point
near the carb to the vacuum modulator.  Get the metal vacuum line from a
Olds engined full size car  with the TH 350.  Common in '77-'79 Olds, Buick
and Pontiac models.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 16:41:45 EST
From: EDZX6@aol.com
Subject: Need 455 motor

     I'm in Miami, FL and will be traveling north for Christmas.  I'm driving
to Asheville, NC and I'm in need of a 455 motor that I can rebuild.  I've
already looked at the 442.com classifieds and will be contacting some people.
I would like to know if anyone else out there along the way (FL, GA, SC, NC)
has one laying around that they like to sell.  I would prefer one between the
years of 68-72 I'm NOT looking for anything fancy W-30 ETC.  I'm looking for
something very economical preferably a complete motor but a short block will
be sufficient.  It will be going into my 72 cutlass conv.
		  
            												
Eddie  72 Cutlass conv
														
EDZX6@aol.com

PS (Keep in mind economical I saw ads for motors going for around $150)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 17:16:21 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST

Lou0118@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 98-12-10 23:14:48 EST, you write:
> 
> << Lately there does not seem to be as much mail as before.  I remember a 
year
>  back I would get swamped with mail daily.  Now it seems less.  Hmm, anybody
>  else. >>
> 
> I just joined the last a week ago and can't believe all this mail.  You mean
> there was more than this?
 
Last year when I was on the Olds list, f-body GM, BMW and RX7 lists it
wasn't unusual to get 5-600 emails a day.  It does seem to me that the
volume has dropped on all of the lists.  I no longer am on the BMW list
because I just got tired of all the yapping.  I don't feel like wearing
a flame retardant suit every time I sit down to the keyboard.  I get
enough of that from real life..........

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 17:04:06 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: th200c woes

In a message dated 12/11/98 12:58:22 PM Pacific Standard Time, GT5726@aol.com
writes:

<< << the tranny got stuck in 1st, then fairly hardly went into 
  2nd at around 3000 rpm. It then stayed in 2nd for the remainder of the 
  drive until I decided to push it to 70mph in second (I think the tach may 
  have gone to 3500 rpm +/-), where it went hard into 3rd and all was well - 
  until I had to slow down again. >>
  >>

     I assume these use governors also...my TH400 wouldn't shift out of first
until 45mph, then 70 to get into 3rd. I worked the shifter LOTS until it
cleared up. I had one reoccurence going up a hill where it dropped out of
third, but I manually shifted it a few more times, and it didn't do it again
after that. I believe it was the governor causing the problem.   Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 17:33:02 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST

Igor T. '81 DRB 455 wrote:

> is lots new people but some of the old guys (like DR. Robert Barry, what
> ever happened to him) have left.  Anyway, I still say that there is LESS
> mail.

I'm not so sure that Bob would appreciate being referred to as an old
guy, but the last time I "talked" to him he was still working on getting
tenure at Providence College and was alive and well.  He said he will
probably be back when things slow down.  That he will be back is almost
a sure thing unless the situation doesn't allow it to happen.  He loves
cars in general and Oldsmobiles in particular.  Some of the other more
prolific members of the list have also been gone for a while, like Chris
Witt and Bill Culp, while others have gone elsewhere, like Mike
Frederick, and others have just cut back on their net time.  It was
normal to expect the volume to drop with the addition of the Cutlass
list also.  And then Greg has tossed one or two flame fest initiaters
also reducing traffic.  The latter people I haven't missed at all.

------------------------------

Date: 11 Dec 98 14:50:05 PST
From: bruce suess <restoman@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: 70  supreme parts car answered]

oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:
 do you have any sport mirrors???

jeff  770  723-9345


drivers  side remote needs glass and cables,sorry.

Restoman

70 442 convert: All done ,Finally.



____________________________________________________________________
More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://home.netscape.com/netcenter/mail

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 15:01:41 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: poured heat risers / cut head back

David Brode wrote:
> 
> I melt old cast pistons in a flea market cast iron skillet. I lay the head 
intake side down on a steel plate, and
> preheat the head to 150 f.  I pour the molten aluminum into a little fixture 
[trough] made from 1X1 angle iron
> that i stick into one of the bowls. I pour it in until it runs out both 
bowls. I've done several sets of heads,
> and the cast aluminum has held up well, even on daily drivers.



David,
Sounds like an interesting method.  Curious though, 
by what means are you able to heat the aluminum to
a liquid state?  Have you a foundry in your basement ;-)


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249

Web site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 18:29:05 EST
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Re: 70  supreme parts car answered]

how much for the 70 drivers mirror???

do you need any parts.... 
  
  jeff

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 18:35:37 EST
From: Cutw29@aol.com
Subject: Engine Problems

Hey guys.  Drove the cutlass yesterday and boy did it run bad.  The engine has
a loud squeal like loose accessory belts but they are all fine do you guys
have any ideas what it could be?  I want to rebuild the engine this winter and
want the right parts for my 350, any ideas?  Thanks.

Steve
72 cutlass s

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 10:10:34 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@acs.ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Wondering if i got a good price

If that oil drain plug was like a GM rear end check plug then there is a
special tool just for that.  I once asked a Snap-On salesman if they warranty
everything and he said that screwdrivers that are bent sideways and 1/2"
extensions are questionable.  They figure the screwdrivers are used for prybars
and the extensions to remove these plugs.

I don't know anyone who has one of those tools so I guess we all must be
misusing our 1/2" drives:)

KarlAune@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Realize that SOM (1965 Dynamic) cost me $1600 at 74K and ended up needing
> Bias-ply tires replaced, $300 brake work after a year and a $500 job to
> replace an oil pan that nobody could open the drain plug on (takes a 1/2"
> ratchet drive without socket!).
> 
> I'd say you've got a steal!
> 
> SOM
> 
> &KA

- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 18:28:21 EST
From: JJP442@aol.com
Subject: Re: LIGHTENING RODS

Not if you have all the OEM brackets,
 Good Luck,
JJP442@aol.com
1983 H/O
1987 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 17:59:21 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: heads up display

I don't think this applies to all HUD's but the N*ss*n 200sx used a matte area
on the windshield to bounce the image back to the driver.  The only windshields
that had this feature where factory ones and they cost $2000 (CDN) each.

After replacing 2 the insurance company told our friend to take a hike.  She
had to buy one more before she traded it off.

That's the only thing I've ever heard about them.

Brian Shankle wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Anyone know anything about retrofitting a heads-up display on a mid '80s
> Delta 88?  I need to know what parts I may need to get if I am lucky
> enough to find one in a junkyard,
> TIA
> Brian.

- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 07:17:55 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Paint Schemes

Have you considered the factory pin stripes?  Instead of the whole
"hump" on the hood being coloured there is just 2 stripes that run
parrallel around the edge of the hump and converge near the vents.  I
just mention this since they seem to be something you could easily do
with a pinstripe kit, they're original (well for a 442 anyway), and not
as common as the full stripes (around here anyway).

Add the pinstrip along the bottom of the trunklid and over the
taillights and your really looking good!

Rock Man wrote:
> 
> Okay all you paint experts out there, I need some help. I have my 69
> Cutlass S sitting at home with hardly any parts left on it or in it. A
> friend and I were talking one night and he asked me if I am going to
> keep the Teal Mist Metallic color that I have on there. I wasn't
> really sure. I wanted to keep the color due to originality, but then
> we got to talking about racing stripes. Would my car look "mean" with
> racing stripes? What colors for the body/stripes? Would the hood look
> odd since it has the chrome vents on it? Should I just stripe the hood
> or go across the top and then the trunk? What do you guys think would
> make this car look mean? I am open to any suggestions.
> 
> Del
> 
> 
> ==
> Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> rockman20@yahoo.com
> 1986 Honda Accord DX
> 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
> 1981 John Deer Snowmobile
> 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
> 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 10:09:55 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Paint Schemes

This man be a redundant, but, have you considered the factory pin-stripes? 
Instead of painting the majority of the "humps" and a stripe around them, this
scheme uses 2 pin-stripes around the outer edge of raised areas.  The stripes
converge near the vents.

I just thought that, a) it might be possible to do this with a bit of
pin-stripe tape, b) it's more or less original (it's shown in the sales
brochures for 442's, I'm not sure if it was available for Cutlass's), and 3)
it's not very common (at least not around here).

Add a pin-stripe across the trunk lid bottom and your rocking.

Just don't paint stripes on the trunk it looks dumb.  Mine are coming off as
soon as I get around to finding a shop that will blow RM onto my new lid and
wing.

Rock Man wrote:
> 
> Okay all you paint experts out there, I need some help. I have my 69
> Cutlass S sitting at home with hardly any parts left on it or in it. A
> friend and I were talking one night and he asked me if I am going to
> keep the Teal Mist Metallic color that I have on there. I wasn't
> really sure. I wanted to keep the color due to originality, but then
> we got to talking about racing stripes. Would my car look "mean" with
> racing stripes? What colors for the body/stripes? Would the hood look
> odd since it has the chrome vents on it? Should I just stripe the hood
> or go across the top and then the trunk? What do you guys think would
> make this car look mean? I am open to any suggestions.
> 
> Del
> 
> 
> ==
> Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> rockman20@yahoo.com
> 1986 Honda Accord DX
> 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
> 1981 John Deer Snowmobile
> 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
> 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 18:51:27 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine Problems

In a message dated 12/11/98 3:38:21 PM Pacific Standard Time, Cutw29@aol.com
writes:

<< Hey guys.  Drove the cutlass yesterday and boy did it run bad.  The engine
has
 a loud squeal like loose accessory belts but they are all fine do you guys
 have any ideas what it could be?  I want to rebuild the engine this winter
and
 want the right parts for my 350, any ideas?  Thanks.
 
 Steve
 72 cutlass s >>

     If it really does sound like loose belts, it could be a dented or bent
pulley. Mine was fine, then one day it started making noise. Replaced the
pulley, and it didn't do it again. No clue what could have happened to the one
on there though. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 19:11:28 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: OL4B and HEI clearance

Happy weekend All,

It seems awhile back there was some discussion about HEI clearance on the
Edelbrock O4B (BB) and Edelbrock OL4B (SB) intake manifold.  As I remember, 
some
said the HEI wouldn't clear the O4B, but it would clear the OL4B. Well, as I
have the OL4B, I'm wondering how much clearance there is.  I mean does it
practically touch the manifold, or would I have a quarter inch or so?  I'm
contemplating the switchover and trying to get the facts.  I'm not concerned
about air cleaner clearance; I may just put a spacer between the carb and air
cleaner to get my clearance.  Who knows, that may give me a velocity stack
effect! (wishful thinking, I know).

Along with this topic, the FAQ suggests a solid-state external voltage 
regulator
is as good as switching to an internally regulated alternator when using the
HEI.  Anyone have anything to say about that?


- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 19:31:31 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Problems

Cutw29@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Hey guys.  Drove the cutlass yesterday and boy did it run bad.  The engine 
has
> a loud squeal like loose accessory belts but they are all fine do you guys
> have any ideas what it could be?  I want to rebuild the engine this winter 
and
> want the right parts for my 350, any ideas?  Thanks.

I would assume that you checked to see if all the accessories (water
pump, power steering pump, a/c compressor, etc) were turning when the
various fan belts were running.  A locked compressor will, for example,
cause the fanbelt to squeal.  Also the belts will squeal if they are
loose or frayed.  Sometimes the belts will look okay, but be dryrotted
or whatever.  Another possibility would be grease or oil on the belt(s)
and/ or accessories and to make sure the pulleys are correctly aligned
so that the belts travel in a straight line.  Those would be my first
areas to check.  I'm sure someone with more intelligent suggestions will
reply, but this is where I would start.  Have you checked the water pump
also?  Although you have checked the belts, sometimes they look okay but
really aren't.  Good luck.....

Don Sowers

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 20:49:58 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOOUNCE: feedback on "power steering services, inc"

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: feedback on "power steering services, inc" 

   Anyone have any experience with a company called "power steering 
services, inc", that's based in Springfield, MO ? The company website 
advertises GM steering gear rebuilds and fast ratio conversions for GM 
A-bodies at a price much lower ($199) than the same service from  
Global West, Lee, and a few other sources I checked out which charge 
more like $500. I'm wondering if anyone has used this company and if 
so what their experience with their products and service has been.

Thanks for any info you might have on this.

- -John Carri

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 20:53:52 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Re: welding exhaust divider/milling exhausts 

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Paul L. Brillhart" <u17058@UICVM.UIC.EDU>
Subject: Re: welding exhaust divider/milling exhausts

  I'll have the heads milled flush.  Two questions:
	1. How much area is wide enough to support the gasket?"
	2. What do you mean by grinding the bottom of the flange?

Also, for all those out there, filling/brazing the center heat riser:

	1. Zinc alloy or aluminum pistons to fill it?
	or	
	2. Braze/weld it shut?


  Thanks.

  Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 20:54:12 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: '85 Cutlass Electrical Problem

- -----Original Message-----


Howdy list!
I'm a new member and have a specific electrical problem. My 17 year old
was installing a new stereo in my '85 Cutlass and he pulled a Climate
Control light bulb and attached a voltmeter to it to see if he could
hook the stereo light up to it.  Now none of the dash lights work but
the fuses in the fuse box all look good.  Any idea what could be wrong?
Keith Hansen
'85 Olds 307/4bbl

Keith,
First, check to make sure your son's still got tail/brake lights.
If it's not a fuse, it's a fusible link.  But, check the fuse for the brake
lights.  The dash lights share the same fuse, kinda so you'll know when you
no longer have tail lights.
Oh, and when I wired my stereo, I unplugged the lighter, and used that
constant power and ground for my memory and ground on the stereo.  And then
just ran a new wire from the fuse panel for the ignition lead for the
stereo.
And for power increase from the 307, you can always do the dual exhaust,
hollow out the converter and bump up the timing.  To get decent power from
it, you'd have to pull it and build it, but if you're going to do that, you
might as well put in a 350 (OLDS!) or 403...  see ya!

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 21:00:20 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: LIGHTENING RODS

It won't work.  Please send shifter and transmission to me to save
aggrevation.
No, it'll work just fine.  The H/O's have 200-4R's as well.

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Trey W Taufmann
Sent: Friday, December 11, 1998 2:25 PM
To: OLDS
Subject: LIGHTENING RODS


I WANT TO PUT A CONSOLE AND LIGHTENING ROD SHIFTERS FROM AN '84 H/O INTO
MY '87 CUTLASS.  WILL THERE BE ANY PROBLEMS HOOKING IT UP TO THE TH200
OD TRANSMISSION??

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 20:03:00 -0600
From: "Brenda Strong" <bstrong@giantstep.com>
Subject: oldsmobile service

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Is there anywhere online where I can order oldsmobile service manuals?

also, what do you think of the oldsmobile web site?

Brenda Strong
Giant Step
820 W. Jackson  Suite 400
Chicago, IL 60607

V(312)470-2702
f(312)470-2770


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 20:56:41 EST
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: '70 A/C Wiring

	I am installing A/C in my '70 Rallye 350. I got an A/C system from one 
of the
list members. I was wondering if someone could tell me how the wiring goes. I
do have a wiring harness that was left on the car originally, and the harness
is set up for A/C. I have noticed some A/C systems have a relay on the
passenger side inner fender, and some don't. My car doesn't have the relay. Is
there anything I need to know about this? My questions are...
Should my 70 have the relay?
If so, where can I buy one, and can anyone tell me what wires go where on the
relay? Appreciate any help!
Thanks,
Jim McKeague
70 Rallye 350
70 Cutlass S W-31

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 21:05:02 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Need Advice: 307 vs others

- -----Original Message-----
Hello Oldsmofolks,

	My roomate is in a pickle. He has a 1982 B*ick Electra 4 dr. with an
Olds 307 Y motor in it...
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu

Your friend would be much much happier all around with the 350.  A 307 just
isn't enough to move that car.  That is if it is the full-size Electra.
Thery were big back then weren't they?  Before I started driving, I wanted a
Parisienne or an Electra.  The Electra I saw and loved was a full-size RWD
beautiful black.  Probably like an 82 or something.  Got a Caprice.
Now, on the other hand, that 307 will run forever, if he takes reasonable
care of it and doesn't mind replacing the fuel pump every 30,000 miles.

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 20:20:27 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: head warping

Have never actually seen a warped Olds head.  Have personally had the
temp gauge peg (topped out at 290 degrees).  Don't know how long it
was pegged out but I figured about 5 mins or so (gauges are good but
keeping the light is good too).  This was at 90 mph at about 2/3rd throttle
and when I pulled over the coolant was already gone.  It got hot enough
to freeze the rings in the pistons, partially melt the pistons ( one had a
decent hole), score the cyl walls, and warp half of the valves.  This wasn't
enough to warp the heads more than a thousandth or two or cause any
cracks.  The heads were 72 7a's.  Head warpage is not a major concern
on iron V8's.  Aluminum is a complete different matter.  If you did happen
to have a warped set of heads all you would have to do is to surface them
which isn't that much $.  What's expensive is having a head straightened
which you only have to do on a OHC motor so the cam will spin freely.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>How long would you have to run an engine without any coolant to warp the
>heads.  We'll use a 68 olds 350 as the engine, and just have the engine
>idling.  Thanks.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 21:29:28 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: head warping

My Cutlass cracked both heads, but they didn't warp. The car was driven over
200miles with NO WATER. It didnt do anyother damage,except crack the heads, it
still ran great.
Kelly
http://kellys-oldsmobile.iscool.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 20:33:11 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: another heating ? /sorry guys

JP,
Could you please send me these JPEGs also?  Got some stuff myself
I'm tracking down.
TIA

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme


>
>I've scanned a pictorial view of the heater/ac setup that shows wiring in
>relationship to components and I've also scanned a schematic of the
>heater/ac wiring.  I've sent these to you privately as JPEGs.  If you don't
>receive them e-mail me privately and we can figure out something.
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 19:39:38 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
Subject: Re: OL4B and HEI clearance

well JFTR my experience with solid state voltage regulators has been less
than one would expect thought they would be better than that had the best
luck with the old fashioned type if they had one with tubes I would probably
use that OTOH the internal reg alts use the same basic parts that are in the
SS reg so there you have it indecision
well I am in the electronics business now aerospace type and with the items
I work with we get 4 new ones out of that 4, 1 works on power up the rest
have some solid state component that needs replacing usually an IC the other
components caps inductors resistors and relays never fail after the initial
problem the usually fail the initial burn in
and it is always the solid state parts the tubes never fail go figure well
thats enough sory for the long windedness...KK ps the videos are on the
horizon I now see daylight

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 20:14:31 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
Subject: Re: head warping

usually any kind of thermal differential will do it when the head is torqued
and then subsequently heated it will then take a set in the form of the
block that it is torqued down on the temp at which the head warps is
relevant only to the free head not the torqued one also it does depend as
lou mentioned the composition pressures and temps related...KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Grover <Atvman@rochester.rr.com>
To: Oldsmobile mailing list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, December 11, 1998 12:29 PM
Subject: head warping


>How long would you have to run an engine without any coolant to warp the
>heads.  We'll use a 68 olds 350 as the engine, and just have the engine
>idling.  Thanks.
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 20:07:59 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
Subject: Re: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs

does Saab still use clarion?
- -----Original Message-----
From: MFATZII@aol.com <MFATZII@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, December 10, 1998 6:44 PM
Subject: Re: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs


>In a message dated 12/10/98 12:02:19 AM Central Standard Time,
>buehner@lyrea.com writes:
>
><<  has given us (at our store) a
> less-that-stellar impression of the Eclipse units, although they do have
an
> excellent product history.  Still not impressed with them, regardless of
>their
> specs on paper... personally.
>  >>
>
>
>Thank you I agree, I'm not too impressed with the features or the looks but
he
>insists that it is a top-o-the line unit and really wanted to use (I told
him
>to go back and get the cd's) lol ....Personally I would put a factory SAAB
>unit up against it any day!
>
>Ryan

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 20:18:46 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
Subject: Re: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST

odd it seams that I keep getting reruns every day the same list with a few
additions my server automatically deletes them and the next day "They're
Baaack" THEY WONT LEAVE ME ALONE  its like the twilite zone....KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: Igor T. '81 DRB 455 <igor455@home.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, December 10, 1998 10:11 PM
Subject: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST


>Lately there does not seem to be as much mail as before.  I remember a year
>back I would get swamped with mail daily.  Now it seems less.  Hmm, anybody
>else.
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 21:50:34 -0500
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@pa.net>
Subject: Re: 68 442 ?

Omega Man ....

I am interested in the 69 ...
I live in Gettysburg ....
email me or call  717 528 4718

Ken Swick
swickka@pa.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 21:48:08 -0500
From: Norval Minnear <norval@ictransnet.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile in the movies. WW and the Dixie Dance Kings?

Dempsey, Charles wrote:
> 
> CCRR12@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > The story of the car in the movie was that is was the "Golden
> > Anniversary Rocket" Special Edition.
> 
> That's it! I couldn't quite remember.
> 
> Early this year I was searching one of the on-line sales papers and
> found an ad for a 1955 Golden Anniversary Oldsmobile. It bothered me
> because there was no mention of this car in my books. In fact,
> Oldsmobile celebrated their 50th anniversary in 1957 with the release of
> the Golden Rocket which was the base level 88 for that year. Eventually
> I decided that it was a typo and they really meant 1957.
> 
> Did Olds also release a Golden Anniversary car in 1955 as well? I'm
> going to see if I can find my notes and give those people a call. I
> probably blew the deal of the century.
> 
> If you find out more please let me know.
> 
> Charles
Yes charles they did produce a Golden aniv. Olds in 1955 . it is black
and gold with a lot of extras . I purchesed one in 1961 when I just got
out of high school and drove the car on my Honey Moon in 1962 , I still
have the same olds and the same wife , the one that was used in WW
Wheels and the Dixie Dance Kings was purchesed By Burt Renolds To Do the
movie and as far as I know he still ownes the car . Burt Renolds lives
11 miles from me here in Florida and I saw the car about a year ago
outside his house He was going to sell it but the manager of the
convient store that Burt Renolds ownes said he did not sell it , that
was about a year ago. Norval

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1660
*********************************

