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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1638


oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, December 2 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1638



Re: Olds TV Sighting
Re: 8.5" ten bolt
Re: Better Horns?
Re: wheels
Windshield Trim
Help!
Re: Windshield Trim
Re: (Fwd) this is a hoot
Who has Desktop Dyno
Re: Windshield Trim
Re: All Bow to the Wisdom of Andy Green
Re: Heater Core
Re: Windshield Trim
Re: Noise and vibration on 72 Cutlass supreme (new info)
Re: Windshield Trim
Re: Olds List Centennial Video
Re: Windshield Trim
Re: 455 buildup/info, Thanks.
Re: Who has Desktop Dyno
Re: Exhaust Manifold Woes
Re: Better Horns?
Re: New Noise and Vibration
RE: Olds Oil Filters
Re: 8.5" ten bolt
Re: Exhaust Manifold Woes
Re: 8.5" ten bolt
Re: Exhaust Manifold Woes
Re: 8.5" ten bolt
remove
403 
RE: Olds Oil Filters
Re: Exhaust Manifold Woes
Motor Oil
RE: 8.5" ten bolt
RE: 403 
Heat Activated Choke Tube
Re: Olds Oil Filters
Can you help me?
wont start help
Re: 455 buildup/info, Thanks.
RE: Heat Activated Choke Tube
Re: 8.5" ten bolt
Re: Karl's Re: Better Horns?
RE: wont start help
Re: Olds TV Sighting
Re: Better Horns?
Re: Olds TV Sighting
Seat Recovering
Re: 8.5" ten bolt
RE: wont start help
Re: 8.5" ten bolt
A good Oldsmobile Day- The rest was so-so.
Re: Alternator output too high?
Re: 73 Rear Quarters.
UNBOUNCE: '73 Cutlass Parts Needed
Looking for info on a Wayne Garnhardt
Re: 8.5" ten bolt
RE: wont start help
Smog legal 350

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 06:31:45 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Olds TV Sighting

Along this line, in the movie "The New Karate Kid" (or something along
that line) there is a beautiful 69 Olds in there as well. I believe it
to be a Cutlass but of course I have been wrong more then once in my
life! But, if you have a weak heart or cry easily, I wouldn't
recommend seeing it. They trash the car in the end. :-(



==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 09:49:30 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 8.5" ten bolt

Don't get me wrong, I ran my 4:10 10 bolt 8.5 for 5 years, but the carrier
blew apart.  Not the pinion or ring gear or even bearings, the carrier did.
This is the second 10 bolt in 10 years that I have had the carrier totally
destroyed.  Thats the only reason I am going to a 12 bolt chevy that has
alot
more meat on the carrier.

W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
___________

Mark,

I've never actually run a "corporate" 10-bolt, only the Type-O 12=10 bolt
rear.  Never had a problem (though the Type O is clearly less strong than
the true 12-bolt).  It seems that there are lots of aftermarket carriers
available for the 10-bolt.  Wouldn't this be a less expensive solution that
buying and setting up a 12-bolt?  Or are there other reasons why you made
the switch?

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 09:59:02 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Better Horns?

get a set of 6volt horns from an earlier car(late 40's...early 50's)...they
are VERY loud when fed 14.4volts.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 10:01:57 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: wheels

Fred,

Olds produced SSIIs and SSIIIs between 1968 and 1988 in various iterations.
The dividing line is bolt-in centers vs. snap-in centers.  Bolt-ins were
made through 1974, in sizes 14x6, 14x7, and 15x7.  Snap-ins were made in
these same sizes and had other variations such as the chrome wheels of the
80s and the various center designs (traditional, smooth round, "442", and
the infamous "starfish").  There was also a FWD version used on the Cieras
and N-body Calais in the 80s, though I don't know if there were referred to
as SSIIIs or something else.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 07:08:21 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Windshield Trim

Okay, I took the advice of the list members and went out and bought a
tool that is "supposedly" suppose to remove the clips for the trim
around the windshield. I got a chance to try it last night and I
couldn't figure out how that works! It shows one tiny little picture
on how to use it. My question is, do these clips actually come off? Or
do they just bend some which allows the trim to be just lifted off? 

Thanks,
Del




==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 07:40:16 PST
From: "Dave Wiss" <lnggonlng2@hotmail.com>
Subject: Help!

How do I stop all these e-mail's flooding my e-mail account!  I want to 
unsubscribe!



______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 11:54:01 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Windshield Trim

Nore, the clips do not come off (unless they are rusted... bad thing). The
tool allows you to get behind them (i.e. between the clip and the outside
edge of the stainless) and persuade them to move enough to release their
grip on the trim. Trust me, it works, but you do need a bit of practice.
Once you engage the clip, move the tool towards the center of the
windshield and then pivot it upwards (handle downwards). 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 10:58:04 -0500
From: "Lee Arthur" <larthur@cablenet-va.com>
Subject: Re: (Fwd) this is a hoot

Anyone know how this thing works.I have played it a hundred times works
everytime ...
- -----Original Message-----
From: krzy4evr@usit.net <krzy4evr@usit.net>
To: echl-news@DEMENTIA.ORG <echl-news@DEMENTIA.ORG>;
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 4:47 AM
Subject: (Fwd) this is a hoot


All, please excuse me for sending a non- subject related post to the list,
but here
is a link that all of you should check out..!!  It's a real mind
twister...!!


http://www.cjta.net/special/index.htm

Michael........................



- --
To unsubscribe, send mail to echl-news-request@andrew.cmu.edu with the
message:
unsubscribe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 10:26:08 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Who has Desktop Dyno

If you have this software & would consider running some numbers for me, 
please contact me off list.

tia

roger hitson
hitson@i1.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 08:18:15 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Windshield Trim

> Once you engage the clip, move the tool towards the center of the
> windshield and then pivot it upwards (handle downwards). 

...and for God's sake don't let your mind wander and start _prying_
upwards, pressing the shaft of the tool against the glass. I cracked
a windshield this way; it makes the most sickening *crack* noise you
ever heard. As far as Bad Things Happening During Repairs, this was
among my worst.  :-(

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 08:52:15 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: All Bow to the Wisdom of Andy Green

> I was out running errands in the '78 Delta tonight and it was 
> raining. Thought I'd check out the look of the car with the parking 
> lights on, in the way he described the photo of his dad's '78. 
> Darned if he wasn't right on the money.

Remember, folks, send those checks to Andrew C. Green, 1716 Norwood
Ave. #107, Itasca, IL  60143...  :-)

> Why they would spec 2 different bulbs in identical-looking 
> side-by-side applications is a mystery to me.

See below...

> GM must have had designers paid by the light on this one.

One of the way cool design ideas back then was multiple parking lights
up front. Cadillacs had them for a while, and Chrysler went really 
nuts on the idea. Their Diplomat had the same setup as the Olds, only 
they used 1157s in all four places, with the outboard sockets having 
the turn-signal contacts removed for parking-circuit use only. The 
LeBaron was the same as the Diplomat only upside-down, with the lamps 
above the headlights instead of below. I had a '79 Diplomat for a 
while and added the missing contacts up front to get dual turn signals 
on each side, along with the wiring trick that lets the side marker 
blink with the turn signals as well.

The latest lighting fad is now smooth lenses with fluted reflectors,
after decades of fluted lenses and smooth reflectors. Check out the
taillights of Mustangs and Aleros, for example.

> I also discovered that the rear tailights are really strange: two
> 1157s on either side that double as brake lights, but then there are
> also 2 small bulbs in each outside corner of the lens: a 194 for a 
> marker light, and a 168 that is another brake light.

Another taillight, actually; it's kind of a filler to light up a
dark area in the lens. They're in goofy extra-long sockets that will
probably be a pain to find in later years if anyone crunches into
the back of your car and you need replacements.

> Looks really cool when all are lit up. I also recently discovered 
> that the '78 Delta is different from the similar looking '77 and '79 
> in not having a separate front side marker in its own hole in the 
> fender; the '78's are sort of wrapped around the side of the 
> headlight bezels. GM was making lots of money then and could afford 
> those changes every year I suppose.

The '77 was the exception with its separate lamp in the fender, and 
I'm sure it was relocated to the side of the headlamps in order to 
save money, since it cost extra to have to punch that additional hole 
in the '77 fender. (Say, does the '77 fender interchange with '78-up?)

- -- Andy



______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 08:57:53 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Heater Core

> I took the heater core out of my 72 442. It looks to have been
> replaced at sometime because it is in very good shape. The name
> brand on the side says "Henderson". Would this be an aftermarket
> unit?

If you're sure it doesn't actually say "Harrison", yes.

> Also would it be better to replace it even though it does not
> leak and appears to be new?

Since you now know how much trouble you have to go through to get
it out for replacement, I'd say it's your call. If it's as good
as you describe, and it obviously _fits_ (something that can give
you a nasty surprise when you try installing a replacement), I would
probably leave it in, IMHO.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 12:03:52 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Windshield Trim

Andrew C. Green wrote:

> ...and for God's sake don't let your mind wander and start _prying_
> upwards, pressing the shaft of the tool against the glass. I cracked
> a windshield this way; it makes the most sickening *crack* noise you
> ever heard. As far as Bad Things Happening During Repairs, this was
> among my worst.  :-(

A friend of mine owns a salvage yard here in central Ky and told about a
guy that came in at his place for a used windshield during one of the
winter months.  The parts guy brought the windshield up to the front
counter from the storage facility for the customer.  Since the storage
building was unheated and it was midwinter the glass was probably 20-30
degrees F.  The customer paid for the glass and started out the door
with glass in hand.  Got almost all ways out the door when the edge of
the door just barely touched the glass.  The windshield promptly
shattered into a gazillion pieces while the guy who had just paid for
the glass held it.  My buddy said the look on the guy's face was
priceless because he knew that he had just bought a pile of glass pieces
since, as I assume most people know, once you pay for and leave the
building the yard is not responsible for the glass.  After a little fun
with the guy, they went back and got a replacement glass for him and
didn't charge him for it.  Didn't have to, but they did.

That's the reason it isn't worth buying and installing used windshileds
in this area.  Most of the used ones are 100 or so and you take all the
risk of breakage and installation while I can get NEW windshield in my
69-72 Cutlasi/442's for around 150-175 when I run it through a body shop
and the glass company takes the risk.  No cloudy glass and if it leaks
for whatever reason they warranty it.  A no brainer in my opinion.

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 11:20:01 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: Noise and vibration on 72 Cutlass supreme (new info)

I had a similar problem with a 3/4 ton truck. Replaced tires & wheels & lots 
of other work, to no avail.

Frien who is a mud racer and full-time wrencher suggested a way to check 
u-joints, whic BTW, both looked & felt okay. Friend suggested dousing 
u-joints with WD 40, driving vehicle a couple days, then checking u-joints 
for visible "rusty runs."  

Sure enough, one of the u-joints showed  clear indications of rust running 
out of it. Replaced both u-joints, vibration disappeared.

Prior to that, had taken truck to drive shaft specialist, front-end 
specialist, and had wheels balanced & rotated over and over and over 
and..........
Well, you get the picture. 

You might try this silly idea. May you be so fortunate as I.

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 09:18:01 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Windshield Trim

> Andrew C. Green wrote:
> 
> > ...and for God's sake don't let your mind wander and start _prying_
> > upwards, pressing the shaft of the tool against the glass. I cracked
> > a windshield this way; it makes the most sickening *crack* noise you
> > ever heard. As far as Bad Things Happening During Repairs, this was
> > among my worst.  :-(
> 
- ---------------------------------------
Not too worried about cracking it. The windshield already has a crack
in it from my accident in September. Speaking of which, I have to get
a picture of that carb since I got my hood open. Who was it that
wanted that pic? Anyways, the only thing I am worried about is the
trim and not having glass to clean out of my garage for the next 2
months. Once the trim is off what's the best way to break the seal? I
have been told that piano wire works well. Is there anything else to
add to the arsenal of windshield seal breakage?

Thanks,
Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 08:05:56 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Re: Olds List Centennial Video

>This would make a great holiday gift for that Olds fan on your list.    :-)
OK gang, buy this video.  I recently purchased one and it is fantastic.  It
should be the "official" video, not that other one.  Doug did one h*ll of a
job editing amateur video and
making this whole tape look very professional.  The sights and sounds are
matched well and you get to see more cars than what is on that other tape.
Let's nominate Doug for an Academy Award
in all the classes!

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 12:33:33 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Windshield Trim

Rock Man wrote:

> Not too worried about cracking it. The windshield already has a crack
> in it from my accident in September. 

> months. Once the trim is off what's the best way to break the seal? I
> have been told that piano wire works well. Is there anything else to
> add to the arsenal of windshield seal breakage?

Someone with more glass experience can probably help you more than me,
but I so know that piano wire is/was used by a lot of salvage yards to
remove windshields.  A comment I remember hearing from many years ago is
to get the glass as close to room temperature as possible (70-75
degrees) before trying to remove it if possible.  If it's too cold or
too hot it increases the chances of having glass confetti in the front
seats.  And have a couple old tires (with the wheels removed) or
something equally forgiving to place the windshield on as soon as it
comes out.  The use of gloves is highly recommended to reduce the chance
of cuts from the wire and/or glass edges.  Good luck....

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 11:01:07 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: 455 buildup/info, Thanks.

Hi,
	this site is very much under construction so you may have been on it 
when it
was broke.  Could whoever is having a problem email me privately with the
specifics (exactly which image is giving the problem) and I'll try to help.  I
know it works with NT 4.0 sp3 IE 4.01 but I'm not sure about Communicator
although NN should work since it worked with the sliding layer I had on the
site when IE puked.  Of course that was sample code from the Netscape site so
it's no wonder IE didn't like it. :)

Thanks

Brian Ammons wrote:
> 
> I don't THINK my stuff is screwed.  Let's try this...can someone running NT
> 4.0 w/ Service Pak 3 and Netscape Communicator 4.05 try the link and
> picture enlargement below?
> 
<snip>

- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 13:23:44 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Who has Desktop Dyno

Roj,

John McJunkin sent me a shareware version of the Mr.Gasket Desktop Dyno.

Contact him direct at Super442@yahoo.com.

Say I sent you.

(to avoid confusion...)

Also say please... I hav not conferred with him about this

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 13:25:17 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Woes

In a message dated 98-12-01 17:32:31 EST, you write:

<< Instead of having it surface-planed I cleaned
 it up myself and it looked very clean and straight, if I do say so myself.
 It was installed with a new gasket and stayed quiet for about 2 weeks. >>

There was a vendor at this years Olds Homecoming who had an array of Exh
manifolds.
Think Karl heard from him or someone nearby that Olds exh Mans tend to warp at
high temps and conform to the engine.
The ORIGINAL engine!!
Perhaps this is a long-term shortcoming of no exh gaskets.

The point of the overheard dialogue was that bolt-holes can be warped out of
alignment....

Believe this applies as well.

As far as a cure... 
Perhaps 2 gaskets with a rubber one (cut with one of the two as a template) in
between??

This will not help steering-knuckle clearance, but might help....

SOM

&KA <-- looking to share dclover's Email Bomb Shelter!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 13:25:14 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Better Horns?

You all read:

<< Other (reasonable) ideas for an attention getting set of horns?  (...  well
 actually Karl if you read this don't hold back) >>

Karl should probably explain that he had a lengthy discussion with J.P. a
while back about 65-67 Toro motors that had the 39 degree cam bank angle.
During which J.P. recieved a number of forwarded messages penned by Mr
Chermack and Mr Witt as well as other notables.

Karl must beg some ignorance as far as aftermarket horns.

Athough those that have seen post-collision pics of SOM may have noticed
slightly raised hood. This damaged-radiator-support result has resulted in
resulted in severe corrosion of horn relay contacts (on inner fender), and a
silent SOM.

Clean contacts up. Horn works. Briefly.

Offhand, Karl prolly DOES have access at several yardes to 6V cars.

BTW: 6V was used until what year???

Should be possible to mount these directly to a ballast resistor to get longer
life from 6V horns.

Actually, 6V horns should be available as repro somewhere...... Kanter?

Anyway...

Karl personally has always desired a horn that played the first bars of Jethro
Tull's "Aqualung"......

But then.... yah .... another hallucination.

SOM

&ka

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 13:25:19 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: New Noise and Vibration

In a message dated 98-12-01 22:18:09 EST, you write:

<<  Drove down the street and noticed a rather severe vibration as well.  I
 can feel it in the steering well and such. >>

Yes!
A non-HEI Q!

Dan, 
Check your dwell angle.
This should  be checked every 3-6 months and can cause vibration if setting is
off.
Otherwise, check to see if your idlemixture is sufficient.

KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 10:30:56 -0800 
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Olds Oil Filters

Been watching this one. Good thread. 

My impression is that longer filters are better, provided they have the
right gasket and thread size at the motor connection. True? 

If so, what's the biggest or best oil filter to use on big block Olds
motors, if you can fit it? My 66 big blocks have a great deal of space on
the passenger side of the motor. Was always wondering if I could fit some
sort of truck filter there for additional oiling capacity. 

Or mebbe even a big Ch*vy one...

Suggestions?

cf

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 13:57:37 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: 8.5" ten bolt

Unless you use a good aftermarket 10 bolt carrier.

- -----Original Message-----

>This is the second 10 bolt in 10 years that I have had the carrier totally
>destroyed.  Thats the only reason I am going to a 12 bolt chevy that has
alot
>more meat on the carrier.
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 13:21:51 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Woes

Another issue possibly worth considering. Fel-Pro's gasket install. manual 
(Yes - there is one) says to install x-man gaskets shiny side out with no 
sealer or adhesive on said shiny side. Their explanation: Original 
installation without gasket allowed x-man to move slightly against the 
block, which they claim is necessary. Thus the real purpose of the shiny 
side is not isulative but to provide a smooth, metallic surface against 
which x-man can still move a bit.

Whether or not this makes sense, it is pretty close to Fel-Pro's  text. I 
tend to follow their instructions faithfully (slyly figgerin they know more 
about gaskets than I)  and have not yet regretted that.

roger

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 14:20:13 EST
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: 8.5" ten bolt

In a message dated 98-12-02 09:55:11 EST, you write:

<< I've never actually run a "corporate" 10-bolt, only the Type-O 12=10 bolt
 rear.  Never had a problem (though the Type O is clearly less strong than
 the true 12-bolt).  It seems that there are lots of aftermarket carriers
 available for the 10-bolt.  Wouldn't this be a less expensive solution that
 buying and setting up a 12-bolt?  Or are there other reasons why you made
 the switch?
  >>
I inquired both Auburn and Eaton and Moroso on the 10 bolt carriers.  They
said that the carriers are the same as the factory in strength.  The only
differences are that the clutch packs contain more clutches and higher
pressure springs.  So my alternative is to get a stronger carrier i.e. 12 bolt
brute force carrier.

You know the old saying  "speed costs money, more money, more speed"

W MACHINES

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 10:49:52 -0500
From: "Gregory Zimmerman" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Woes

I'll offer the only solution that ever worked to seal up my cheap-o
blackjack headers.  Any I tried everything...paper gaskets, metallic
gaskets, glue, no-glue, double gaskets, gaskets soaked in water, etc,
etc.

Fel-pro offers one type of gasket for the Olds in their
high-performance line for exhaust.  They are expensive (I forget how
much, but around $10), and blue/teal in color.  Try summit racing or
jegs.  Then use permatex ultra copper sealant on both sides of the
gasket.  Let it sit for 10 minutes, then assemble.  Let it dry
overnight before starting.

If that doesn't do it, off to the machine shop!

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 14:35:50 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: 8.5" ten bolt

I'd sooner spend the $$ for a 12 bolt the first (and last) time rather than
waste the dough on 2 or 3  10 bolts. That 6200 rpm 1-2 shift has less of a
pucker factor feeling with a 12 bolt than it does with a 10.

Ed
The Omega Man

'74 Omega 455/4spd/12bolt-4:10 pos

- --------------------------------------------------------------------------

>I inquired both Auburn and Eaton and Moroso on the 10 bolt carriers.  They
>said that the carriers are the same as the factory in strength.  The only
>differences are that the clutch packs contain more clutches and higher
>pressure springs.  So my alternative is to get a stronger carrier i.e. 12
bolt
>brute force carrier.
>
>You know the old saying  "speed costs money, more money, more speed"
>
>W MACHINES
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 14:50:41 -0600
From: Edward Pittman <edward@gdar.org>
Subject: remove

please remove me from the list for now. going on a long vacation.
thanks!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 14:55:02 -0600
From: bloom9@juno.com (C K)
Subject: 403 

Hello all, a co-worker of mine a I were talking about Olds engines and we
were wondering what the differences were between my '67 400ci and his '79
403ci in his Trans Am. I know all about my engine, but not a thing about
his. By the way, his 403ci is an Olds engine from the factory.
Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 16:58:00 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: RE: Olds Oil Filters

I seem to recall a thread here many moons ago that stated that the late
70's or early 80s Firebird oil filter was a direct swap for the Olds
PF-24. The advantage was that it is considerabbly longer. Whether this is
the same one referred to here yesterday I dunno. I forget if this was for
a 403 in a Firebird or a 301 Turbo. Someone should know.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 17:04:06 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Woes

Thanks for the suggestions so far. It seems really strange that use of a
gasket will not cure the problem when there was no gasket on there
originally. You'd think the ability of the gasket to deform and adjust to
minor surface imperfections would solve the problem. Obviously not. 

Based on the collective wisdom so far, I guess the one-last-try solution
would be to get a new gasket and some hi-temp sealer on the head side
only. Might be just as cheap to have the thing planed since it has to come
off anyway.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 15:29:22 -0600
From: <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Motor Oil

I have been reading an old thread on another webpage about oil weights.
I know we have discussed it here before, but I have been wondering - why
don't synthetics (Mobil 1) come in single weights?


Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme
.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 16:47:03 -0500 
From: Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca
Subject: RE: 8.5" ten bolt

Mark,
	I've seen your car, and by the looks of it, you do pride yourself a
little on originality. Are you concerned about that? Are you worried that
you W-30 will become a over-modified "hot-rod". Personally, I'd like to see
you use the 10-bolt, only because when you do hit the 11's, it would make me
feel better that you did it with as close to an original car as possible.
Thoughts......

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	WMACHINES@aol.com [SMTP:WMACHINES@aol.com]
> Sent:	Wednesday, December 02, 1998 2:20 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	Re: 8.5" ten bolt
> 
> In a message dated 98-12-02 09:55:11 EST, you write:
> 
> << I've never actually run a "corporate" 10-bolt, only the Type-O 12=10
> bolt
>  rear.  Never had a problem (though the Type O is clearly less strong than
>  the true 12-bolt).  It seems that there are lots of aftermarket carriers
>  available for the 10-bolt.  Wouldn't this be a less expensive solution
> that
>  buying and setting up a 12-bolt?  Or are there other reasons why you made
>  the switch?
>   >>
> I inquired both Auburn and Eaton and Moroso on the 10 bolt carriers.  They
> said that the carriers are the same as the factory in strength.  The only
> differences are that the clutch packs contain more clutches and higher
> pressure springs.  So my alternative is to get a stronger carrier i.e. 12
> bolt
> brute force carrier.
> 
> You know the old saying  "speed costs money, more money, more speed"
> 
> W MACHINES

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 17:17:54 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: 403 

Well your 400 is a big block in the 400-425-455 family.
The 403 is a small block in the 260(?)-307-350-403 family.
The 403 was only made from 77-79, and were in some T/A's.  I've heard that
the california T'A's were the ones with the 403's, but I think it was more
than just there.  Some had 400's (a Chevy or Ponitac engine (?)), but the
cool ones had Olds 403's (6.6L). That car's pretty torquey huh?

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of C K
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 3:55 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 403


Hello all, a co-worker of mine a I were talking about Olds engines and we
were wondering what the differences were between my '67 400ci and his '79
403ci in his Trans Am. I know all about my engine, but not a thing about
his. By the way, his 403ci is an Olds engine from the factory.
Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 16:36:25 -0600
From: "72Hurst" <72hurst@net-email.com>
Subject: Heat Activated Choke Tube

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0084_01BE1E11.E71A7260
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I tried sneaking this the other thread dealing with exhaust manifolds =
which in hind site was pretty dumb.=20
My question is, does anyone have a good suggestion as to how to seal the =
heat tube (possibly called a heat stove or some such thing)  which goes =
down into the intake manifold and supplies warm air to open the choke. =
The plate on mine is kind of rough and I can't seem to keep it sealed. =
Also, if any one knows where I could get one of these either new or =
excellent used, I'd be open to that also.=20

TIA

John

- ------=_NextPart_000_0084_01BE1E11.E71A7260
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3511.1300"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I tried sneaking this the other =
thread dealing=20
with exhaust manifolds which in hind site was pretty dumb. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>My question is, does anyone have a =
good=20
suggestion as to how to seal the heat tube (possibly called a heat stove =
or some=20
such thing)&nbsp; which goes down into the intake manifold and supplies =
warm air=20
to open the choke. The plate on mine is kind of rough and I can't seem =
to keep=20
it sealed. Also, if any one knows where I could get one of these either =
new or=20
excellent used, I'd be open to that also. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>TIA</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>John</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0084_01BE1E11.E71A7260--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 17:38:11 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds Oil Filters

Chris,

The problem with using the C-word filter is the gasket ring is wider than the
Olds.  If someone was good with aluminum welding they could possibly weld a
piece of aluminum to the filter mount's mating surface (with the filter) that
would widen the contact area so the AC PF-25's and 35's (longer filter) would
work.  In fact, if anyone knows someone that could do this, I have some mounts
I'd like to be modified...............

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 18:08:58 -0500
From: Rick & Nancy Wilson <squirts@bright.net>
Subject: Can you help me?

Hi i'm nick wilson and i was wondering if you would be able to help me
to find some parts for my 1973 olds Cutlass Supreme please if you can
help or not please E-mail me at mellowyellow19@yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 17:29:08 -0500
From: "Todd M.Williams" <todd@wvadventures.net>
Subject: wont start help

ok heres the deal 350 4 barrel rocket it wont start i checked to see if it
was fireing but it wasnt i put new plugs and wires points and new coil but
still no spark any ideas ? im lost
      thanks
              Todd

72 cutlass supreme

74 442 (still for sale or will part out one of these days)$700 bucks and
its yours 

todd@wvadventures.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 17:28:14 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: 455 buildup/info, Thanks.

Brian, 
Worked like a champ, MS Internet Ex, 4.01, I do have the Applet working.
Lou
- ----------
> From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> 
> The 1969 ad said that the 442 was
> >> > built like a 1-3/4 ton watch (the ad is on my site at
> >> > http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson if you haven't seen it) so that
works

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 18:32:08 -0500 
From: Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca
Subject: RE: Heat Activated Choke Tube

I used a piece of aluminum cut to the roughly the same shape and bolted it
over the choke opening. I used no sealers and it's been very effective. No
leaks thus far. The aluminum adds a little flare, especially since it won't
tarnish or fade.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	72Hurst [SMTP:72hurst@net-email.com]
> Sent:	Wednesday, December 02, 1998 5:36 PM
> To:	Oldsmobile Mailing List
> Subject:	Heat Activated Choke Tube
> 
> I tried sneaking this the other thread dealing with exhaust manifolds
> which in hind site was pretty dumb. 
> My question is, does anyone have a good suggestion as to how to seal the
> heat tube (possibly called a heat stove or some such thing)  which goes
> down into the intake manifold and supplies warm air to open the choke. The
> plate on mine is kind of rough and I can't seem to keep it sealed. Also,
> if any one knows where I could get one of these either new or excellent
> used, I'd be open to that also. 
>  
> TIA
>  
> John

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 18:30:56 -0500
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Re: 8.5" ten bolt

I am now doing up a 12 bolt the total cost is 1350 .00 not counting the cost of
the housing.  all the insides are mark williams
 axles, carrier, gears  c clip elim. and yolk.   have a 12 bolt posi carrier
for sale and stock axles ,. what can I say, my olds told me that it wants to be
bigger  badder and faster and I cant say no  Butch  68  442  post
Gene Gilpin wrote:

> I'd sooner spend the $$ for a 12 bolt the first (and last) time rather than
> waste the dough on 2 or 3  10 bolts. That 6200 rpm 1-2 shift has less of a
> pucker factor feeling with a 12 bolt than it does with a 10.
>
> Ed
> The Omega Man
>
> '74 Omega 455/4spd/12bolt-4:10 pos
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> >I inquired both Auburn and Eaton and Moroso on the 10 bolt carriers.  They
> >said that the carriers are the same as the factory in strength.  The only
> >differences are that the clutch packs contain more clutches and higher
> >pressure springs.  So my alternative is to get a stronger carrier i.e. 12
> bolt
> >brute force carrier.
> >
> >You know the old saying  "speed costs money, more money, more speed"
> >
> >W MACHINES
> >
> >

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 18:31:00 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: Re: Karl's Re: Better Horns?

>You all read:
>
><< Other (reasonable) ideas for an attention getting set of horns?  (...  well
> actually Karl if you read this don't hold back) >>
>
>Karl should probably explain that he had a lengthy discussion with J.P. a
>while back about 65-67 Toro motors that had the 39 degree cam bank angle.
>During which J.P. recieved a number of forwarded messages penned by Mr
>Chermack and Mr Witt as well as other notables.

jp wants to know if Karl has a total recall memory data chip installed in
cranium or if Karl has printed all list e-mail for the last 12 months and
wall papered his house.

jp asks this because he can't even remember what he had for breakfast...

jp also notes that awhile back Karl took major heat for talking in 3rd person.

jp enjoys Karl's 3rd person dialogue and suggests you try it once for a
change in perspective.

As for the Hella Horns the company said they were electrically operated and
while an improvement (in loudness) over the horns on most late 80's and
90's cars they were about equal to 70's horns.

As an experiment jp will try roasting a set of 6v horns on his '96 Dodge Van

thanks to all for your replies,

jp

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 18:36:01 -0500 
From: Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca
Subject: RE: wont start help

Your '72 will have a delay fused wire leading to the coil. It's purpose is
to short/break (like a fuse) if there's any overloading. This is what may
have happened to you. The wire is a little thicker than the rest of the
cabling. It should be located from the center block located just above the
distributor on the firewall. Look for the cable that leads to the coil. It
should be black. Replace this and check for voltage to the coil.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Todd M.Williams [SMTP:todd@wvadventures.net]
> Sent:	Wednesday, December 02, 1998 5:29 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	wont start help
> 
> ok heres the deal 350 4 barrel rocket it wont start i checked to see if it
> was fireing but it wasnt i put new plugs and wires points and new coil but
> still no spark any ideas ? im lost
>       thanks
>               Todd
> 
> 72 cutlass supreme
> 
> 74 442 (still for sale or will part out one of these days)$700 bucks and
> its yours 
> 
> todd@wvadventures.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 17:33:08 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
Subject: Re: Olds TV Sighting

uh its a 70 or 71 w-30 could have been a clone because it got trashed...KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 8:34 AM
Subject: Re: Olds TV Sighting


>Along this line, in the movie "The New Karate Kid" (or something along
>that line) there is a beautiful 69 Olds in there as well. I believe it
>to be a Cutlass but of course I have been wrong more then once in my
>life! But, if you have a weak heart or cry easily, I wouldn't
>recommend seeing it. They trash the car in the end. :-(
>
>
>
>==
>Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
>rockman20@yahoo.com
>1986 Honda Accord DX
>1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
>1981 John Deer Snowmobile
>197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
>1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
>_________________________________________________________
>DO YOU YAHOO!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 17:42:35 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Better Horns?

Jonathan, 
Put on a set, Hi & Low from a Towmotor forklift on the Vega, might be small
but doesn't sound like it. Chrysler uses good sounding horns on their
bigger cars, try your local junkyard, take both, they are supposed to be
sychonous, (bad spelling), don't want to look it up.Buy them for 2 bucks
apiece.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net


- ----------
> From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
> To: oldsnet <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Better Horns?
> Date: Tuesday, December 01, 1998 1:46 PM

> What are Hella horns?
> 
> $69 seems a little steep or is my age showing?
> 
> Other (reasonable) ideas for an attention getting set of horns?  (... 
well
> actually Karl if you read this don't hold back)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 17:35:08 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
Subject: Re: Olds TV Sighting

has anyone seen the movie HOT ROD it has a 69 cutlass done in disco orange
flake and silver flake ends up with a blower on it bad guy drives it so of
course it has to loose the races...KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 8:34 AM
Subject: Re: Olds TV Sighting


>Along this line, in the movie "The New Karate Kid" (or something along
>that line) there is a beautiful 69 Olds in there as well. I believe it
>to be a Cutlass but of course I have been wrong more then once in my
>life! But, if you have a weak heart or cry easily, I wouldn't
>recommend seeing it. They trash the car in the end. :-(
>
>
>
>==
>Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
>rockman20@yahoo.com
>1986 Honda Accord DX
>1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
>1981 John Deer Snowmobile
>197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
>1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
>_________________________________________________________
>DO YOU YAHOO!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 09:50:24 -0600
From: Tom <72rocket@netnitco.net>
Subject: Seat Recovering

I am in the process of redoing the interior of my 72 Cutlass S.  I have 
everything out of the car and am wondering how difficult of a job it is to 
put new foam in and recover the front bench seat.  If you have experience 
doing this and can provide some insight or tips I would appreciate it. 
 Also if there is a particular vendor I should use for the materials let me 
know.

Thanks,

Tom
72 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 17:40:29 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
Subject: Re: 8.5" ten bolt

ran one for a while behind a 800 hp 439 cube BBC and never broke it it had
5.13s in it
only changed for a narrowed rear ford 9 inch because of the axels you could
debur the case take off any stress risers where cracks can start and are you
talking about the gear case(posi-unit) or the carrier(housing)?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM <Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 8:55 AM
Subject: Re: 8.5" ten bolt


>Don't get me wrong, I ran my 4:10 10 bolt 8.5 for 5 years, but the carrier
>blew apart.  Not the pinion or ring gear or even bearings, the carrier did.
>This is the second 10 bolt in 10 years that I have had the carrier totally
>destroyed.  Thats the only reason I am going to a 12 bolt chevy that has
>alot
>more meat on the carrier.
>
>W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
>___________
>
>Mark,
>
>I've never actually run a "corporate" 10-bolt, only the Type-O 12=10 bolt
>rear.  Never had a problem (though the Type O is clearly less strong than
>the true 12-bolt).  It seems that there are lots of aftermarket carriers
>available for the 10-bolt.  Wouldn't this be a less expensive solution that
>buying and setting up a 12-bolt?  Or are there other reasons why you made
>the switch?
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 18:50:04 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: wont start help

Did you check the power and ground connections to the distributor?Or to the
coil rather.  Is that an external coil, I assume?  Make sure the coil's
getting power and is grounded...

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Todd M.Williams
Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 5:29 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: wont start help


ok heres the deal 350 4 barrel rocket it wont start i checked to see if it
was fireing but it wasnt i put new plugs and wires points and new coil but
still no spark any ideas ? im lost
      thanks
              Todd

72 cutlass supreme

74 442 (still for sale or will part out one of these days)$700 bucks and
its yours

todd@wvadventures.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 15:37:53 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: 8.5" ten bolt

> Don't get me wrong, I ran my 4:10 10 bolt 8.5 for 5 years, but the carrier
> blew apart.  Not the pinion or ring gear or even bearings, the carrier did.
> This is the second 10 bolt in 10 years that I have had the carrier totally
> destroyed.  Thats the only reason I am going to a 12 bolt chevy that has
> alot
> more meat on the carrier.
> 
> W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
> ___________
> 

Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote

> Mark,
> 
> I've never actually run a "corporate" 10-bolt, only the Type-O 12=10 bolt
> rear.  Never had a problem (though the Type O is clearly less strong than
> the true 12-bolt).  It seems that there are lots of aftermarket carriers
> available for the 10-bolt.  Wouldn't this be a less expensive solution that
> buying and setting up a 12-bolt?  Or are there other reasons why you made
> the switch?
> 
> Joe Padavano



- ------------------------

We had a similar situation with our race car. After adding
a trans-brake, we broke two axles and twisted three others 
in the 1970 12 bolt O axle (4.66 gears). So some changes
were 
definitely in order!  Let me say, these axles don't just
break, 
they explode.  Which requires a complete disassembly of the 
rear end to clean out all of the debris and fragments.  
Although we could have had axles custom made for it 
(Although not NHRA tagged), the carrier and/or ring and 
pinion would only become the next weak link.       

The last thing I want on my mind when sitting in the
staging lanes, is to be worried about whether or not
some part of the car is going to break!  
(Kinda disrupts the concentration).  

So we put together a 12 bolt C axle
with all the best pieces available (35 spline axles,
spool,etc.)
And rather than use a C-clip eliminator, we had 9" F*rd 
bearing ends welded on the housing. We also had the axle 
tubes welded to the center section.  
Also addressed was the
inherent 12 bolt problem of breaking the carrier main caps
by using forged caps with studs and a girdle type cover.
Although adapting a W-27 cover would have looked cooler, the 
girdle preloads the caps and helps prevent the pinion from 
trying to spit the carrier (or spool) out of the
housing (Not cool).           

I know we could have got by with going a less expensive 
route, but for the piece of mind, a few extra dollars 
spent is (in my opinion) worthwhile.  And this allows
one to focus on the task at hand ;-)

Check out our race car at:
http://supercarsunlimited.com/photos/superpro/our67.html

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249

Web site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 19:03:10 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: A good Oldsmobile Day- The rest was so-so.

Well folks, I finally found my keys for the 72 S (ex)parts car a couple
of weeks ago.  Some of you may remember I bought this car to part out to
allow some forward progress on my other children and then got to feeling
guilty about breaking it up.  Anyway I went out to the car a couple
weeks ago and reacquainted myself with the interior and the driver's set
a little.  Didn't try to start it because I figured the battery would be
"exhausted" from sitting for a year and a half or so and the jumper
cables were somewhere else.  Since I didn't need to move it, I just
enjoyed sitting in the driver's seat on a 60+ degree NOVEMBER day.  Put
the keys back up where this time I KNEW they would not walk off or be
moved by a suddenly frantic wife trying to clean the whole house because
relatives are coming in.  ANYHOW, today I called the towing service used
by my mechanic friend and had the 1983 RX7 with the locked motor towed
to his place for a transplant.  The "new" (translation not locked up)
motor is already there and sitting on the floor awaiting the car.  Well,
to tow the 7 I needed to move the 72 S "parts" car.  Still didn't have
the jumper cables at home, but I figured if it didn't start I would get
the guy to help me push it around so we could work the 7 out to where he
could get to it to load it.  Openned the door to the S and got into the
driver's seat and looked up.  Hummmmmm, the interior ceiling light has
at least enough juice to be lit, so maybe the battery has enough spark
to turn the 350.  Turned the ignition key and listened to it grind the
starter for about a total of 30 seconds all together while pumping the
gas pedal a little.  Sitting there thinking I'm an idiot because I
didn't prime the 2 bbl carb with a little drink of gas when I hear this
little sputter of activity under the hood.  Turn off the key, pump the
pedal a few more times and hit the ignition again.  Starter grinds for a
few seconds and the engine stumbles a bit and then starts to run.  A
little noise up front from the motor but nothing knocking, just a little
clicking.  (Hey, what do you expect? It hasn't even been turned over for
at least 18 months or so.)  So I sit there and let it run for a little
while before I engage the A/T to see if it will still move or has it
lost the fluid because of dry seals.  (I hadn't noticed any leakage
under the car, but then again I haven't been looking for one either.) 
HEY, this thing still has a full transmission.  Car pulls forward and
backwards with no problem.  So being the optimist I am, I back it out of
the driveway (with NO tags, NO insurance and a grinning certified car
nut behind the wheel) and take it for a little stroll around the
subdivision.  Car has a little hesitation when you hit the throttle, but
other than that it runs and drives great.  HOT DANG, I'VE GOT ONE THAT
RUNS.  Well, I'm hooked again.  I've GOT to get something restored SOON
or else.  I opened the trunk, check under the house carpet the original
owner laid down over the factory carpet.  It looks like the rust on it
is minimal in the trunk area as best I can tell.  I may talk myself into
fixing this one yet.  The only problem with that is I only have one
other Olds with a steel top, and that is attached to the 72 Hurst (and
it has a sunroof in it at that).  I had almost forgotten the sweet sound
an Olds 350 makes when you punch the throttle.  Why didn't you guys tell
about this earlier?  I was a bit disappointed the radio didn't work, but
then it didn't work when I got it. I was just hoping it had cured
itself.  Let's see.  A set a wheels, new tires, new brake shoes, new
vinyl top, one quarter panel to patch and a paint job.  Sounds like a
new car to me.  Now if I can just get some work done tonight, I can skip
the house payment this month, eat beans and cornbread, drink water, take
a bath about once a week, and after about 4-5 months......
The neighbors will ask me to move probably :)

Just thought I would share a few moments of elation that something
unexpectedly good happened for once...........

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 19:05:38 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator output too high?

I'm an EE(Electrical Engineer), not that you need to be one to answer this
question.  The term '12 volt system' is a generic term.  14 volts is
absolutely fine.  I have measured as high a 14.3 volts on one of my vehicles
with no adverse effects.  Matter of fact, if you are only measuring 12 volts
expect the 'gen' idiot light to come on and radio and other electrical
components flickering because you need a battery, voltage regulator or
alternator!  Also the car probably won't start the next time you turn the
ignition on.  The battery should measure about 12.3-12.8 with engine cold.
If the voltage goes much higher than 14.4  then you have to worry about
destroying components particularly in the interior.  Voltage can run as high
as 16 volts but generally only for Drag Racing applications.  How was that
for telling you 14 volts is okay?!

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net

>>From: DYeager535@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 11/30/98 3:24:12 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>comid@jellico.com writes:
>
><< 14 volts is about right. >>
>
>     Isn't it because you are "USING" voltage, and since some is "lost" it
>needs to charge at a higher rate to keep the battery at 12 volts?   Dorian
>
>------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 19:02:21 EST
From: W451973@aol.com
Subject: Re: 73 Rear Quarters.

in a word yes. they list it as 73-75 thats incorrect, the side marker light is
differrent for 73, this is one year only, it will be slanted where 74-75 are
square.                             dennis
w451973

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 20:11:21 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '73 Cutlass Parts Needed

Not on the list, respond to mellowyellow19@yahoo.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Rick & Nancy Wilson <squirts@bright.net>
Subject: Can you h*lp me?

Hi i'm nick wilson and i was wondering if you would be able to h*lp me
to find some parts for my 1973 olds Cutlass Supreme please if you can
help or not please E-mail me at mellowyellow19@yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 19:11:57 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Looking for info on a Wayne Garnhardt

Hey all,

Have any of you ever heard of a Wayne Garnhardt???    He was supposed to be a
well know NHRA drag racer in the late 60's and 70's.

Thank you


Vinny
62 Starfire
68 Hurst/Olds

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 19:14:45 EST
From: W451973@aol.com
Subject: Re: 8.5" ten bolt

of coarse it helped that he just happened to have a 391 12 bolt setting under
his other w-30.  huh mark.
dennis
w451973

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 18:55:30 -0500
From: "Todd M.Williams" <todd@wvadventures.net>
Subject: RE: wont start help

At 06:50 PM 12/2/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Did you check the power and ground connections to the distributor?Or to the
>coil rather.  Is that an external coil, I assume?  Make sure the coil's
>getting power and is grounded...
>
>Ray Costanzo
>87 409 Cutlass
>Bucks County, PA
>costanzo@netcarrier.com
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Todd M.Williams
>Sent: Wednesday, December 02, 1998 5:29 PM
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: wont start help
>
>
>ok heres the deal 350 4 barrel rocket it wont start i checked to see if it
>was fireing but it wasnt i put new plugs and wires points and new coil but
>still no spark any ideas ? im lost
>      thanks
>              Todd
>
>72 cutlass supreme
>
>74 442 (still for sale or will part out one of these days)$700 bucks and
>its yours
>
>todd@wvadventures.net
>
>

yes it is an external and it does have power going to the coil not sure if
it was a rotor button or may be the cap they dont look bad to my eye but i
havent changed them and this is the motor thats in the 74 442 not the 72
btw.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 19:36:40 -0500
From: "Diane DeLucia" <hurstolds@sprynet.com>
Subject: Smog legal 350

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Hi Everyone

I want to put a 350 Olds in my 84 H/O.  I know that it is a direct drope =
in.  My question is.  Are there 350 Heads that are Smog Legal.  I mean =
do that have air pipe fittings.  If so what years will work.  I also =
know that everthing from my 307 will bolt on.

Thanks=20
Jim DeLucia
84 Hurst Olds
84 Monte SS

hurstolds@sprynet.com

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hi Everyone</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I want to put a 350 Olds in my 84 =
H/O.&nbsp; I=20
know that it is a direct drope in.&nbsp; My question is.&nbsp; Are there =
350=20
Heads that are Smog Legal.&nbsp; I mean do that have air pipe =
fittings.&nbsp; If=20
so what years will work.&nbsp; I also know that everthing from my 307 =
will bolt=20
on.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Jim DeLucia</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>84 Hurst Olds</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>84 Monte SS</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 =
size=3D2>hurstolds@sprynet.com</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1638
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