Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1646


oldsmobile-digest      Sunday, December 6 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1646



Re: The J-2 intake was: Intake?
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1645
1986 olds 98 engine noise+smoke
Parts wanted
Re: Parts wanted
Non Olds, Dumb
Re: Parts wanted
Re: Parts wanted
RE: Non Olds, Dumb
Big 80s Vinyl Tops
Non Olds, Dumb
72 Cutlass Supreme
Re: Non Olds, Dumb
Re: Non Olds, Dumb
Re: Big 80s Vinyl Tops
list problem
My Oldsmobile page
Re: list problem
help ID'ing my engine
send URL's PRIVATELY!
69 Cutlass frame
Re: My Oldsmobile page
Re: Big 80s Vinyl Tops
Re: My Oldsmobile page
Re: send URL's PRIVATELY!
Re: send URL's PRIVATELY!
Rubber door seals for 82 cutlass supreme
Re: Web page update
lower control arm removal
Re: Maroon 66 Full Size steering wheel and '66 Full size fenders
Alternator upgrade:  advice needed
Re: lower control arm removal
Re: Rubber door seals for 82 cutlass supreme
Fwd: Re: 68-75+ Olds Parts
Re: Electronic odometer reads "error"
Re: Web page update
Re: Big 80s Vinyl Tops
Gas odor/hard start
Re: Web page update
Re: Maroon 66 Full Size steering wheel and '66 Full size fenders
Re: wont turn off.
Lists (non-olds)
Re: Gas odor/hard start
Re: PDL wiring & cam selection
Re: HEI Conversion Completed
Re: Non Olds, Dumb
Re: Gas odor/hard start
Re: Gas odor/hard start
Non-Olds or SE, sorry
UNBOUNCE: Engine ID
UNBOUNCE: 3.8 V-6 engine noise+smoke 
Re: Rubber door seals for 82 cutlass supreme
Re: Response to Idle Problems :::> Long
403Ci 4A - 4B Difference? 
Re: 403Ci 4A - 4B Difference?
Re: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold
Re: Response to Idle Problems :::> Long
Re: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold
ADV
OL4B Manifolds (Was Re: Rejoice with Me!!)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 15:20:53 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: The J-2 intake was: Intake?

Karl,
    Thank you for the info - it is a #571145 - Do you or anyone on the list 
know
of someone looking for one of these manifolds?  It is in nice shape, still has
about half of the original carb studs there, but no carbs or linkage...  If 
you or
anyone else knows of someone - please email me privately.
Thanks again,
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a 'glide :-(
'75 Supreme - project car....
'82 Supreme - SB, 700R4, 3.73's - Grin!
'86 Supreme - V-8 - daily driver...

KarlAune@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 98-12-05 22:48:48 EST, you write:
>
> << I've got a tripower intake from an early Olds - I think it may the "J-2"
>  set-up.  Anyone out there know how to confirm what this intake is from?
>  Todd Daenzer >>
>
> First off the J-2 will have "571145" cast in the front.
>
> Secondly, the throttle plates of the appropriate 2-Jet carbs were small, 
about
> the size of quarters, the later 2 barrel throttle plates (and appropriate
> holes in intake) were visibly larger from about 1965 and after.
>
> Further, this intake will only bolt onto the Oldsmobile 371cid engine made
> from 1957-1960 (61? dammit, I just posted the years!....) due to clearances
> with cylinder heads and block.
>
> Further, a special vaccuum linkage was used to allow the end carbs to go from
> closed to WOT at 68 degree throttle opening on central carb. Central carb
> provides all fuel for idle and off-idle!
>
> Lack of this vacc system will require a jury-rigged mechanical linkage, if 
you
> can scrape up the carbs at Ye Olde Junque Yardes. There are 371's lying
> fallow. Just gotta find them!
>
> I have this intake, a 371 lined up, and one of the three carbs rebuilt. I 
will
> still need the appropriate jets, and some form of linkage that staggers carb
> opening to eliminate the bog of both ends opening at once.
>
> I would like to put this project motor in a 1964 or earlier *light* car like
> the 1961-4 F-85 club coupe.
>
> And please do not inundate with "Buy my 1961-4 F-85", Karl can NOT afford 
now!
>
> SOM
>
> &KA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 15:20:58 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1645

how do i get on the mailing list?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 16:34:41 -0500 (EST)
From: Mritunjay Singh <msingh@tristan.tn.cornell.edu>
Subject: 1986 olds 98 engine noise+smoke

I recently bought a 1986 olds ninety-eight with a 3.8L V6
Fuel-injected engine. It runs very loud and after running for about a
minute starts giving out huge amounts of blue smoke. Any ideas on what
this indicates?
Thanks.
- -Mritunjay

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 16:18:11 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Parts wanted

I am in need of a good used 3000-3200 stall converter (reasonably priced), a
complete 200+ hp nitrous system, and a pair of '75 H/O or 442 grills (also
reasonably priced). I also have a model 3310 Holley carb for sale, recently
rebuilt, $120.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 16:21:27 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: Parts wanted

SOrry, I dont have anyof thoes, but I'm planing to do pretty much the same
thing to my cutlass. 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 15:30:17 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Non Olds, Dumb

What does LOL mean? People keep sending it to me and I have no idea what
their saying. Sorry to tie up bandwidth, it is a slow day however. TIA, I
do know what that means.

Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 16:38:06 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Parts wanted

Edward Binnix wrote:
> 
> '75 H/O or 442 grills (also

are those the same as 75 S grilles?

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***************************
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 V-8 4 bbl)
1975 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (250 I-6 1 bbl)
1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (350 V-8 2 bbl)
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4 bbl)
*******************************************
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 16:38:20 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Parts wanted

Not sure.

- -----Original Message-----

>Edward Binnix wrote:
>> 
>> '75 H/O or 442 grills (also
>
>are those the same as 75 S grilles?
>
>-- 
>***********
>Matt Cremean
>mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
>***************************
>1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 V-8 4 bbl)
>1975 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (250 I-6 1 bbl)
>1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (350 V-8 2 bbl)
>1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4 bbl)
>*******************************************
>http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
>*******************************************
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 16:38:56 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Non Olds, Dumb

Funny that this comes up now.  I just figured out what TIA means about five
minutes ago.
LOL means laughing out loud.
raotflmao or something. Means rolling around the floor laughing my ass off

Ray

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Lou Biggs
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 1998 4:30 PM
To: Olds List
Subject: Non Olds, Dumb


What does LOL mean? People keep sending it to me and I have no idea what
their saying. Sorry to tie up bandwidth, it is a slow day however. TIA, I
do know what that means.

Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 15:50:08 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Big 80s Vinyl Tops

I was wondering if it is possible (and what is involved) in REMOVING the
Landau top that is so unbelievably common on both 2 and 4-door Deltas.  I
fantasize of doing what Igor has done to his car to an '84 2-door,
non-Landau top car, but these qualifications seem to be hard to meet.

Incidentally, I fixed the oil leak that was the source of the valve
cover/gasket/no gasket yell-a-thon a while back.  Third times the charm.
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 16:49:47 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Non Olds, Dumb

For all of those who aren't "up to snuff" on their e-mail shorthand, click the 
following link and catch up on all the new innovative shorthand ideas..!!


http://www.netlingo.com/e-mailsh.html


In hopes this link will stop this thread of "LOL" before it gets out of 
hand..!!


Mike

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 16:53:32 EST
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: 72 Cutlass Supreme

I am looking for information on a '72 Cutlass Supreme. How many '72 Supremes
were built with a three speed manual trans?
Thanks,
Jim McKeague

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 16:02:33 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Non Olds, Dumb

Thanks to all, Ray read Mike Hamlin post, I am ROTFLMAO at my stupidity.
Good thing someone didn't send me that, wouldn't have slept for a week, you
guys all work at Langley, you know, CIA. Went to graduate school, BGMAB!
Double thanks,
Lou

- ----------
> From: Ray Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: Non Olds, Dumb
> Date: Sunday, December 06, 1998 3:38 PM
> 
> Funny that this comes up now.  I just figured out what TIA means about
five
> minutes ago.
> LOL means laughing out loud.
> raotflmao or something. Means rolling around the floor laughing my ass
off
> 
> Ray

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 17:08:23 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: Non Olds, Dumb

laff out loud

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 16:12:26 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Big 80s Vinyl Tops

Brian, 
Should be able to remove vinyl, will need new trim molding for rear window,
yours should the same color as the vinyl, landau window moldings are
chrome, or should be. Do you wish to keep these in? You could braze sheet
metal in the openings and any holes, carefully, not to warp the orig. metal
and will have to redo headliner where windows were. lots of sanding to
remove glue. Real pain.
Lou

- ----------
> From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Big 80s Vinyl Tops
> Date: Sunday, December 06, 1998 3:50 PM
> 
> I was wondering if it is possible (and what is involved) in REMOVING the
> Landau top that is so unbelievably common on both 2 and 4-door Deltas.  I
> fantasize of doing what Igor has done to his car to an '84 2-door,
> non-Landau top car, but these qualifications seem to be hard to meet.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 17:14:08 EST
From: BADCUTLASS@aol.com
Subject: list problem

when u find out how to get off the list tell me. i tried and had no sucess

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 17:19:08 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: My Oldsmobile page

Hey guys, I haven't been on the mailing list for quite awhile now, but My
webpage has come along great. If you want to visit it, go to
http://www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z/index.html 
My page is mucho better, but I'm sad to say I lost my 66 442 in a bad deal :(.
So now I'm left with my Lil' Old Gutlass Cutlass (1966) and my battle tank
1954 Super 88. My uncle is giving me his 1979 Camaro (there is a link to its
page on my site), and my plans are to rip out the 350, put in an olds 350,
take all the chevy bowties off and put olds rockets on it, kinda like the olds
F body that never was, it should be cool, eh? WEll, nice talking, email me
back if you thhink my camaro idea is dumb
Kelly Erickson

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 00:25:06 +0200
From: "Jaak Ruusmaa" <jaak@anet.ee>
Subject: Re: list problem

If you ever want to remove yourself from this mailing list,
you can send mail to <majordomo@chebucto.ns.ca> with the following
command in the body of your email message:
    
unsubscribe oldsmobile youremail@here

- -----Original Message-----
From: BADCUTLASS@aol.com <BADCUTLASS@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, December 07, 1998 12:15 AM
Subject: list problem


>when u find out how to get off the list tell me. i tried and had no sucess
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 17:27:28 -0500
From: "Kevin Grover" <Atvman@rochester.rr.com>
Subject: help ID'ing my engine

I have a olds 350  that's supposed to be a 68, but I can't verify that from
the FAQ, according to that it's a 72-74,  I have 8 heads. And I think there
is a 22 on the block.  This is out of a cutlass, I think,  Any help with
this would be great, also if you have any specs on this engine, aka hp,
torque, etc.  that would be great.  Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 17:34:23 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: send URL's PRIVATELY!

For information compilation purposes, could anyone who has a cool Olds site
send me the URL.  Thanks.
Send it privately!-------->  costanzo@netcarrier.com

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 17:36:46 -0500
From: Bob Dale <bctad5@toolcity.net>
Subject: 69 Cutlass frame

Just finished stripping what was left of a 69 Cutlass S. Have not
inventoried parts I might sell yet but if anyone wood like the front
part of the frame.A frames, ect. and can get here fairly soon they can
have it. Will be scrapping soon. The whole frame is available but the
very back ends are rusted. The only othe parts I know I`ll be selling
for sure are the complete doors and side windows with mechanisms.

Bob- 69 Cutlass S 455/400

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 16:46:32 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: My Oldsmobile page

Kelly, 
Great job, keep up the good work, want some pix of my 75, I just finished?
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net


- ----------
> From: DonziKel@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: My Oldsmobile page
> Date: Sunday, December 06, 1998 4:19 PM
> 
> Hey guys, I haven't been on the mailing list for quite awhile now, but My
> webpage has come along great. If you want to visit it, go to
> http://www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z/index.html 
> My page is mucho better, but I'm sad to say I lost my 66 442 in a bad
deal :(.
> So now I'm left with my Lil' Old Gutlass Cutlass (1966) and my battle
tank
> 1954 Super 88. My uncle is giving me his 1979 Camaro (there is a link to
its
> page on my site), and my plans are to rip out the 350, put in an olds
350,
> take all the chevy bowties off and put olds rockets on it, kinda like the
olds
> F body that never was, it should be cool, eh? WEll, nice talking, email
me
> back if you thhink my camaro idea is dumb
> Kelly Erickson

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 15:44:32 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Big 80s Vinyl Tops

VALVE COVER:  Whohooooooo.  How did you do it? (I DONT want to start another
debate, just wondering what the problem was)

As for the vinyl top, my Delta also has it.  It is in vary good shape, so I
decided to keep it.  It will be painted body color (only should be duller).
I hope it looks good, I kind of like it now.  Can't wait until it is done so
that I can post some pics.  You should be able to remove it no poblem,
however all the glue and crap might be a bitch to remove.  Like Lou said,
real pain.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 17:46:47 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: My Oldsmobile page

heh, sure, what the hell

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 18:03:22 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: send URL's PRIVATELY!

In a message dated 12/6/98
 4:<BR36:<BR19 PM Central Standard Tim, costanzo@netcarrier.com writes:> For
information compilation purposes, could anyone who has a cool Olds sitesend me
the URL.  Thanks.
>  Send it privately!-------->  costanzo@netcarrier.com


Yeah, Ray...why do you want to hoard al the fun???

Carron

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 18:03:43 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: send URL's PRIVATELY!

In a message dated 12/6/98
 4:<BR36:<BR19 PM Central Standard Tim, costanzo@netcarrier.com writes:> For
information compilation purposes, could anyone who has a cool Olds sitesend me
the URL.  Thanks.
>  Send it privately!-------->  costanzo@netcarrier.com


Yeah, Ray...why do you want to hoard all the fun???

Carron

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 18:14:47 -0500
From: Ben Diehl <ben72@stargate.net>
Subject: Rubber door seals for 82 cutlass supreme

Does any one know of a supplier of the door seals. The part that the window 
shuts into for a 82 Cutlass Supreme.
Ben Diehl

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 15:23:24 -0800 (PST)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Web page update

Hello all,
       Sorry if I've been out of touch with you so long, been ~real
busy~.
I made some updates to my pages today, actually just added some cars
to the owners gallery.... I've added Lou Biggs 75 , and Kevin Grant's
80 model.
Kevin, if you get this, and the name isn't right let me know, you only
signed your first name, so I had to get the last name in the
Email.Lou, if you want some text added, just send it on.
        And finally to Jim Brady, see if your updates are correct.
       Oh...almost forgot...the URL's are :
    
  http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/KGrant

  http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/LBiggs
        and for the complete listing, my owners gallery is at :

        http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/owngalhome 

Later,

==
John McJunkin ( The Sman ) mailto:super442@yahoo.com  
  ICQ # 16956740      Lithia Springs, Ga.
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442 
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts    
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 18:57:04 EST
From: KASOLDS@aol.com
Subject: lower control arm removal

I am taking the lower control arms off the front of my 70 442 to replace the
bushings.  My problem is 3 of the bolts seem to be frozen to the metal sleeve
inside the bushing, and they wont come out (I have all of the nuts off).  Does
anybody have any recomendations?

Keith
70 442

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 18:43:12 -0500
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Re: Maroon 66 Full Size steering wheel and '66 Full size fenders

By any chance do you have the dash plate out of the 66 Dynamic? I need the
chrome piece that goes around the dash on the passengers side. It has the
hinge for the glove compartment door. I would also be interested in the
drivers side front fender. What do the bumpers look like on this thing?    
Please let me know.       TIA
			R. Kevin Noon
			66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
			85 Delta 88 Royale Brougham

- ----------
> From: Frederick Nissen <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
> To: Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Maroon 66 Full Size steering wheel and '66 Full size fenders
> Date: Saturday, December 05, 1998 9:08 PM
> 
> Hi all,
> 
>     Someone was looking for a maroon steering wheel for a '66 Starfire a
few
> days ago.  I spent the day pulling the 425 out of a Dynamic 88 parts car.
> The wheel is decent (a few small cracks, but quite presentable).   E-mail
me
> privately if interested.
> 
>     On the same topic, the RF fender on this car is good (minor rust) and
> the LH is serviceable.  Hood and deck are also good.  I recall someone
was
> looking for a fender a while back.    Get in touch with me privately if
> interested.
> 
>     All of above very reasonable.  Must act fast though.  Car is
> disappearing as soon as I pick a few more items off it.
> 
> Regards,
> Fred

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 19:02:16 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: Alternator upgrade:  advice needed

Hi,

Once again I'm in need of the list's collective wisdom.

As some of you may know I'm nearing the end of a 5 year frame-off
customization of my '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible.

This chain reaction event was triggered by following the rot trail that was
exposed when I went to replace the well worn and multi-patched top.  My
love (perhaps better read compulsive need) of taking things apart combined
with my love of invention and innovation quickly helped this project to
escalate beyond all reason (but I wasn't daunted because a teacher of mine
in India once remarked that understanding was the booby prize and then
asked with hardly contained mirth if I wanted to be a booby).

The body work and paint is done.  The 425 w/ Edelbrock Heads and port
injected EFI will be ready for dyno in a month or so.  (BTW I'll post the
dyno results as well as component specs when I'm done.  One thing you might
be interested to know is that the heads needed some porting and clean up.
The preliminary flow test (before porting) is in Dick Miller's
(http://www.mspmall.com/dmr/ ) recent news letter and showed basically that
compared to a "C" head that the Intakes tested about the same and the
Exhaust showed a good improvement.)

I'm now tackling the complete replacement and revamp of the electrics.

Here's the alternator question...

...but first some salient (I'm still paying off my student loans so once in
awhile I like to convince myself it was worth it by using words I'm not
sure how to spell) information.

1) The original alternator was rated at 63 amps and externally regulated
2) In addition to standard electrics the car had AC, power windows and
power convertible top
3) The AC is now gone.  Fog/driving lights will added as well as a sound
system that will (supposedly) draw 60 amps peak and run at 40 amps max.
The EFI will have some draw and includes an electric fuel pump (mounted in
the gas tank).
4) The battery will be trunk mounted (has solenoid to keep Battery Positive
to starter "dead" unless cranking) and the amplifier for sound system will
also be in the trunk.
5) I plan to use a #8 fine strand wire to a junction box on firewall for
power supply.

Finally... here's the question.

What alternator should I use?

I want to use one that is internally regulated.

I've asked around and received various replies.  I've searched the web for
articles etc. but so far not much has turned up.

I've been told (MAD Electric) that a 94 amp 12 SI Delco from a '84 Z-28
Camaro would work if I replaced the Diode Trio (but I'm not sure what that
means).  I'm also not sure if the power output would be sufficient for my
needs.

I've also been told that a CS 130 and, better yet, a CS 144 would work well
for this application.  (I noticed in a recent alternator thread that Thomas
Martin installed a CS 144 on his 91 Bonneville and that seems to be working
well.)

I've been told that the 94 amp 12 SI is a better choice (with the
modifications) than either of the CS series (MAD Electric again but I
couldn't follow his reasoning).  I've also been told the opposite? that the
12 SI will not stand up to the high current draw (that from Wild Electric a
local alternator/starter repair shop).

The phrase "one wire" has been tossed at me, but I confess my ignorance here.

So to solve my problem I realize I need to get a comprehensive
understanding of the factors involved.  One of my primary goals in this
project has been to (as far as possible) to utilize readily available parts
that I can get at most auto parts stores or dealers around the USA.  This
car will be (as always) a daily driver.

BTW retro fitting the alternator will be an issue no matter which one is
chosen as the fuel rails for the port injection system on the 425 prohibit
the use of the original brackets.  Consequently, unless I hear compelling
reasons to the contrary, I will make brackets to fit an installation of the
alternator on the lower passenger side of the motor.  The issue of
serpentine (sp?) belts arises here, but I'm assuming the standard V belt
will be fine.

Any help or advice that you could offer or places to look for information
would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks in advance,

jp

Jonathan Parke
mailto:jonparke@together.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 19:03:38 -0500
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Re: lower control arm removal

I had similar troubles with my 66 Dynamic. I found that useing a propane
torch with brazing gas, which burns hotter and a hammer did the trick. It
smells bad when the rubber starts to melt but it worked.  Good luck.
				R. Kevin Noon
				66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
				85 Delta 88 Royale Brougham

- ----------
> From: KASOLDS@AOL.COM
> To: Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: lower control arm removal
> Date: Sunday, December 06, 1998 6:57 PM
> 
> I am taking the lower control arms off the front of my 70 442 to replace
the
> bushings.  My problem is 3 of the bolts seem to be frozen to the metal
sleeve
> inside the bushing, and they wont come out (I have all of the nuts off). 
Does
> anybody have any recomendations?
> 
> Keith
> 70 442

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 19:07:06 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Rubber door seals for 82 cutlass supreme

Ben Diehl wrote:
> 
> Does any one know of a supplier of the door seals. The part that the window 
shuts into for a 82 Cutlass Supreme.
> Ben Diehl


Yup.  Go to your local GM dealer.  I don't remember the part number off
hand, but they're still available.

Oh, and by the way, for you Calais/Salon/Hurst/442 owners, if you have
the wide top-of-the-door stainless mouldings, and your rubber seals are
shot, you can get JUST the rubber seal if you need it and save a bunch
of cash.  R & L part numbers are 20674276 and 20674277 respectively.  If
you buy the mouldings themselves, they will come with the rubber seal
attached.  Be forwarned, either way, will require removal of the side
glass to get to the center screw.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 19:37:00 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Fwd: Re: 68-75+ Olds Parts

>
>>
>>>
>>>                                           C&M Classic Parts
>>>                        1132 Chatmoss Drive, Virginia Beach, VA 23464
>>>                                 (757)474-0869, FAX (757)474-0694
>>>                                         
>>> <<mailto:chermac@exis.net>chermac@exis.net>
>>>                                                OCA# 24275
>>>
>>> Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 pm - 10:00 pm,  Sat 9:00 am - 3:00 pm,  Sunday Closed
>>> *We accept all major Credit Cards. VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and Discover.*
>>>
>>>
>>> *** The 69-73 "W" and "Z" 455 Dual Exhaust Manifolds will be on sale
>>> starting December 15. Price is $319.00 plus shipping. They are perfect and
>>> are better than the originals due to newer metallurgy
>>>                                          OLDS Restoration Parts
>>>  
>>> New arrival "Parts"
>>> 72 Cutlass Supreme LH Grille (N.O.S.)  $52.00
>>> 69 Cutlass/442 Wiper Switch $25.00
>>> 69 Headlight Bezels  $65.00 pr
>>> 69 Headlight Housings $65.00 pr
>>> 68 Cutlass Supreme Door Panel Moldings  $20.00 pr
>>> 68-69 Cutlass Supreme Long Arm Rest Bases  $25.00 pr
>>> 68-72 Front Windshield Molding (set, mint) $45.00
>>> 69 Cutlass "S" Hood (good cond, light rust under front)  $40.00
>>> 64-72 Rear Sway Bar $65.00
>>> 64-72 Boxed Lower Control Arms (orig.)  $110.00 pr
>>> 68 Cutlass Grille (mint)  $135.00
>>> 71-72 Sport Mirrors $100.00 pr
>>> 68-72 "S" Hardtop Rear Window Molding (set, mint)  $45.00
>>> 70 W-30 Intake (Early w/ Oldsmobile W-455) date code 11/13/69  $575.00
>>> 68 LH Post Coupe Door (very nice)  $65.00
>>> 69 442/Cutlass Hardtop Doors (mint)  $150.00 pr
>>> TH350 W/shift kit  $125.00
>>> 71-72 Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $45.00
>>> 70-72 Heater Control Panel (nice)  $35.00
>>> 68-75+ Auto Trans Flex Plates  $35.00
>>> 68 Hood Hinges  $50.00 pr
>>> 70-72 SSI Wheels (4) $200.00 set
>>> 70-73 SSII/III Wheels (5)  $250.00 set
>>> 70-73 SSII Wheels (4, off 72 H/O with orig paint.) $200.00 set
>>> 83-84 Hurst Olds Lightning Rod shifter assm (no cable, nice)  $280.00
>>> 307-403 Edelbrock Performer Intake (nice)  $100.00
>>> 69-72 Seat Backs & Lower Sides (nice orig, black or tan)  $80.00 set
>>>  
>>> New Repro Parts:
>>> 70-72 Dash Chrome Bead (new)  $58.00 ea
>>> 67-70 Turn Signal Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea
>>> 67-70 Tilt Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea 
>>> 67-75 TH400 Shifter Cable Bracket (Repro)  $28.00
>>> 68-72 License Plate Bracket (Repro)  $26.50
>>> 68-70 W-31 Cam Kits (w/lifters & lube)  $132.00
>>> 68-72 1/4 Glass Chrome Moldings (Repro)  $92.00 pr
>>> 69-72 Rear Spoiler (3 piece repro)  $255.00
>>> 70-72 Hood Pin Kits (NEW, original supplier, complete setup) $115.00
>>> 71or72 442 Grille Numeral Sets (repro, either year)  $34.00 set
>>> 71-72 442 Hood Emblem (repro, Non OAI) $20.00
>>>  
>>> New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts 1964-1972 Olds/Cutlass/442
>>> 68 (N.O.S.) Cutlass/442 Turn Signal Lens (front, 2 prs)  $25.00 pr
>>> 72 (N.O.S.) Cutlass Supreme, H/O LH grille $50.00
>>> 68-72 W-30 Stick Cam .475 lift/ 328 dur. (N.O.S. in box)  $275.00
>>> 68-72+ TH Torque Converter Cover (Plastic, N.O.S.)  $36.00 ea
>>> 66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
>>> 68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
>>> 68-7? Under Hood Light kits (N.O.S.)  $40.00 ea
>>> 69-72 442 Trunk Numeral Sets (N.O.S.) $50.00 set
>>> 69-70 442 Hood Numeral Sets  (N.O.S.) $50.00 set
>>> 69-72 442 Fender Numeral Sets (N.O.S.) $38.00 set
>>> 70-72 LH Coupe/Conv Door Skin (N.O.S.)  $200.00
>>> 70-72 Hurst Dual Gate Shifter Cable (N.O.S.)  $55.00
>>> 70-72 OAI Air Cleaner Springs (N.O.S)  $5.00 ea
>>> 71-72 Front Grille Plastics (N.O.S)  $35.00 ea                        
>>> 73-75 (N.O.S.) Cutlass "S", 442,  H/O RH Qtr Panel  $350.00
>>> 75-77 (N.O.S.) Cutlass Supreme Header Panel  $150.00
>>> 73-77 Cutlass/442/Hurst Wiper Switch (N.O.S.)  $22.00
>>>  
>>> USED PARTS:
>>> 68 Cutlass/442
>>> 68 8 Track Player (needs work, nice unit, housing broken)  $45.00
>>> 68 Front Bumper (nice w 2 small dings)  $125.00
>>> 68 442 Rear Bumper (very nice) $250.00
>>> 68 442 Air Cleaner Heat tube assm (2 pieces)  $30.00
>>> 68-69 442 Glove Box Door (black)  $18.00
>>> 68-69 442/W-30 400 Intake Manifold  $50.00
>>> 68 Cutlass/442 Backup Lens (nice)  $22.00 pr
>>> 68 Trunk Vinyl Top Molding & Plate  $25.00
>>> 68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
>>> 68 Cutlass Rear Bumper (core)  $75.00
>>> 68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $35.00              
>>> Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set                               
>>> 68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00                     
>>> 68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $25.00
>>> ea                                            
>>> 68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea                                
>>> 68-72 B-Pillar Molding Sets (black, mint) $27.50 pr 
>>>
>>> 69 Cutlass/442
>>> 69 Cutlass, H/O, 442 Dash Woodgrain (mint orig, minus ash tray)  $30.00 
>>> 69 Cutlass/442 Conv trunk lid (mint)  $150.00
>>> 68-69 442 Glove Box Door (black)  $18.00
>>> 69 Front Bumper (no pits, bent from tow truck)  $85.00
>>> 69 Hood Tongue $20.00
>>> 68-69 442/W-30 400 Intake Manifold  $50.00
>>> 69 Turn Signal Lens (nice)  $25.00 pr
>>> 69 Front Grille Center Filler (between grilles)  $8.00
>>> 69 Full Hubcaps (nice)  $35.00 set
>>> 68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
>>> 69 Radiator Core Support 3 Row (mint, no rust holes)  $150.00
>>> 69-72 Hood Hinges  $40.00 pr
>>> 69-70 "S" Hood Louver Chrome  $25.00 pr
>>> 69-70 "S" Hood Louver Moldiings  $25.00 pr
>>> 68-72 Windshield Molding Sets  $45.00 set                                 
>>> 69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
>>> 69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $55.00 ea
>>> 69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $25.00 ea
>>>
>>> 70 Cutlass/442
>>> 70-72 Floor Console (regular auto, black, complete)  $100.00
>>> 70 442/SX Cutout Rear Bumper (nice rechrome, not perfect)  $275.00
>>> 70 Hood Tongue $40.00
>>> 70 Front Bumper (core)  $85.00
>>> 70 Fender Eybrows (nice, no pits)  $45.00 pr
>>> 70 RH Rally 350 grille (repaired, nice)  $75.00
>>> 70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
>>> 70 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr
>>> 70 Cutlass Supreme Hood (excellent)  $100.00
>>> 70-71 Halo Vinyl Top Molding sets no "L " moldings (mint) $55.00 set
>>> 70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea             
>>> 70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00                                    
>>> 69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00                                
>>> 70 "S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr         
>>> 70 Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $70.00                                  
>>> 70-72 Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
>>> 70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens (restored)  $17.00 ea
>>> 70 Cutlass Supreme Tail Light Lens (restored) $23.00 ea
>>>
>>> 71 Cutlass/442
>>> 70-71 Cutlass Supreme Side Marker Lights (mint)  $60.00 set
>>> 71 Cutlass "S" Grilles (nice used)  $100.00 pr
>>> 71 LH Cutlass Supreme Grille (nice)  $85.00
>>> 70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $30.00 pr
>>> 71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
>>> 71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set
>>> 70-72 C/S LH/RH Side Glass  $25.00 ea 
>>> 71 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr
>>>
>>> 72 Cutlass/442
>>> 70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $30.00 pr
>>> 70-72 Floor Console (regular auto, black, complete)  $100.00
>>> 71-72 Power Lock Switches  $12.00 ea
>>> 72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00                                  
>>> 72 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr            
>>> 72 Tail Light Lens  $13.00 ea used, $26.00 ea (N.O.S.)
>>>
>>> 73 and Newer and Big Car Parts:
>>> Late 73-74 Olds HEI distributors (non cumputer, w/cap and coil)  $45.00 ea
>>> 73-75 442 Console and Shifter (Maroon)  $90.00
>>> 73-77 Omega Floor Shift Tilt  $65.00
>>> 75 Omega Front Fenders (very nice pair)  $180.00 pr
>>> 75 Omega Bucket Seats (nice, maroon cloth)  $85.00 pr
>>> 72 Delta 88 Qtr End caps  $25.00 pr
>>> 72 Delta 88/ Ninety Eight Owners Manual (nice) $5.00
>>>  
>>> New reproduction parts:
>>> Convertible Top Boots (Correct Grains for each different year)  $89.00ea
>>> 64  Black, Red, Lt. Blue, Fawn, Saddle, Turqoise, White
>>> 65  Same as 64  
>>> 66-67 Black, Red, Light Blue, Med. Blue, Bronze, Turqoise, White, Gold
>>> 68-72 Black, Red, Parchment, Lt. Blue, Teal Blue, Green Gold, Gold, Pearl,
>>> Dk Blue, Dk. Green, Lt. Green, Lt. Saddle, Dk Saddle, Olive Green, Royal
>>> Blue, White, Sandalwood, 
>>>
>>> Molded Carpet Sets  $95.00 
>>> 64-67 - (Black, Red, Med. Blue, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Maroon)
>>> 68-72 - (Black, Red, Maroon, Turqoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Med. Blue, Dk.
>>> Green,
>>> Green Gold, Lt. Green, Teal Blue, Saddle, Sandalwood)
>>> 73-77 - (Same as 68-72 except Green Gold)
>>>
>>> Door Panels  64-72  $265.00 for a set of all 4
>>>
>>> Seat Covers  64-72  $335.00 front and rear sets any year or color.
>>>
>>> Vinyl Dash Overlays (makes your wood dash areas look like carbon fiber)
>>> $50.00 set 
>>>
>>> Lifetime Guarantee on all correct bead window felts  $92.00 set (inner &
>>> outer)
>>> 66-67 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (correct bead type) 
>>> 68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (not Supreme Coupes, correct bead) 
>>> 68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv (Outers only, correct bead)  $50.00
>>>
>>> Replacement Window Felts (Flat type)  $60.00 set (inner & outer)
>>> 64-72 Cutlass/442 (state year and model)
>>>
>>> Glove Box Liners
>>> 64-67 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
>>> 68-69 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
>>> 70-72 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
>>>
>>> Qrt Seals
>>> 70-72 Cutlass Supreme & Conv Qtr End seals  $13.00 pr
>>>
>>> Hood Insulation
>>> 64-65 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
>>> 66 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
>>> 67 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
>>> 68-70 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner (wclips)  $18.00
>>> 70-72 Cutlass Supreme Hood Liner (w/clips)  $18.00
>>> 73-77 Cutlass $28.00
>>>
>>> Liner Clips
>>> Round Clips  $1.00 ea
>>> Square Clips  $1.00 ea
>>>
>>> A-Arm Shields
>>> 68-72 Upper A-Arm dust shields  $14.99 pr
>>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 19:36:47 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Electronic odometer reads "error"

In a message dated 12/5/98 5:25:31 PM EST, kib7@usa.net writes:

<< Naturally all the previous settings for the clock, radio, A/C were
 forgotten, it happens every time you disconnect the battery.
   >>

BTW, I just got a gadget from Eastwood which saves all the computer settings
when you disconnect the battery. One end plugs into the cigarette lighter. The
other fits a 9V battery. It works and it's only $9!
Bruce
75 Delta 88 Conv. (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 19:38:32 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Web page update

Nice interior Lou

From: Mark Hahn [mailto:mahahn@fuse.net]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 19:44:37 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Big 80s Vinyl Tops

The top can be removed, but it is more work than you would think.  The hard
(non padded) tops with the alligator grain common in the late '70s can be
removed relatively easily as the trim around the windows is the same as for
the cars without the top.  The cars with the padded top (and / or the
smoother looking vinyl and the hard underlayment that simulated a padded
top) are more of a pain.  The rear window molding is completely different.
You will need the correct moldings from a no vinyl top car.  You will also
have a bunch of filling to do, as the attaching studs for the moldings used
with the aforementioned tops are in a different location than those on the
plain cars.  Also expect to have to finish the quarter panel seams located
high on the C pillar.  As they were hidden anyway, the factory did not do
much to finish these on the vinyl top cars.  While this is not an issue with
the '80s Delta, note that some cars used an entirely different rear quarter
window and roof treatment when the landau top was ordered (i.e. '78 and '79
Delta 88) and that there is no factory molding available for cars of this
configuration without a padded top.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 19:45:19 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Gas odor/hard start

Excuse me for not paying attention the last time this question was answered.
When the engine is hot, it's hard to start as though there's no gas in the
carb, but there's a strong smell of gas coming from the carb, but no visable
leak anywhere. It's the original Rochester 4bbl. Where should I look first?
TIA
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 18:47:40 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Web page update

Mark, 
Actually it's all cranberry, don't know where the blue came from, thanks.
Lou

- ----------
> From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Web page update
> Date: Sunday, December 06, 1998 6:38 PM
> 
> Nice interior Lou
> 
> From: Mark Hahn [mailto:mahahn@fuse.net]
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 19:43:23 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Maroon 66 Full Size steering wheel and '66 Full size fenders

I've got a '66 98 two door hardtop that I use for spares for Redzilla.
Perhaps there is something on that car that you could use that I could part
with.  If you think of something, drop me a post.  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 17:22:51 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: wont turn off.

Joe and List members,

I recently had to down grade to my stock voltage regulator. I could not find a
replacement for the aftermarket electronic regulator that crapped out on me. My
car will not turn off unless it's in REVERSE. I have the MSD 6 installed and
have had no problems with it. Butch and Joe told me my solution. It works with
one glitch...
My generator light comes on and my lights are MUCH dimmer than with out it.
Effectively it acts like it's running without charging. Is there another
solution to this problem? If not I guess I'm gonna have to go for the ONLY
electronic replacement regulator I have seen and that is in JC Whitney and I'm
a bit leary of weather it will work...

Thanks, Ben

Joe LaPille wrote:

> > Dear Sir,
> >
> >   To solve the run on problem, you have to install a 1amp 200 Volt diode
> > in line of the field wire of the voltage regulator.  You can get this
> > diode through an electronic store.  When installing the diode, it has a
> > silver band, make sure the silver band is facing the regulator.  The
> > reason for the diode is to prevent feedback through the field wire, which
> > can keep a small voltage to the MSD unit to keep it running, the diode is
> > to prevent the feedback.
> > Thanks,
> >
> > MSD Tech
> >
> > ----------
> > From:         Ben[SMTP:]
> > Sent:         Monday, November 23, 1998 6:09 PM
> > To:   Joe LaPille
> > Subject:      wont turn off.
> >
> > I have gotten a problem since replacing my aftermarket electronig voltage
> > regulator with a stock style "flapper" type. Somebody mentioned to me
> > about soldering in a diode to the alternator dummy light. Does anybody
> > have information as to why this is suggested or why it JUST started to do
> > this after replacing the regulator? Somebody mentioned it because SOME
> > MSD-6 and 6L require this for some unknown reason. Any thoughts,
> > suggestions, or help will be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > 68 Olds 442
> > 400 ci w/ TH-400
> > HEI w/ MSD-6 triggered by HEI
> > Aluminum heads
> > 62 amp alternator with 62 amp regulator "stock style"
> >
> > Ben
> > Olds442@primenet.com
> >
> >

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 17:28:50 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Lists (non-olds)

I need the assistance of the list.
The time that I requested everybody's inputs on the web page about ties
is upon us again. It has not gone into production, but CAN be done. If
you would like a picture of your car on the tie, WE CAN DO IT! What a
great gift to the avid gear head, eH? Well, almost anything you can
think up, we WILL put on the site. So, PLEASE check the site out again,
give me private emails with your suggestions and we'll put them into
effect. One more need:
I need the addresses to all email lists like this one, ie:
Olds G-body list, Che*y lists, Poncho lists, airplane lists, truck
lists, any sort of email list you can think of. Let's get this great
massing of information so we can have ties for ALL motorheads and gear
heads alike. I want to serve the Olds community and the other
communities as income is income regardless what company makes the car.

Ben
olds442@primenet.com
http://www.digitaldune.net/~acutec

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 18:54:57 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Gas odor/hard start

Bruce,
Needle and seat in carb, reset float level to specs. At least 95% of time
thats the problem.
Lou

- ----------
> From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Gas odor/hard start
> Date: Sunday, December 06, 1998 6:45 PM
> 
> Excuse me for not paying attention the last time this question was
answered.
> When the engine is hot, it's hard to start as though there's no gas in
the
> carb, but there's a strong smell of gas coming from the carb, but no
visable
> leak anywhere. It's the original Rochester 4bbl. Where should I look
first?
> TIA
> Bruce
> 75 Delta 88 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 14:54:03 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: PDL wiring & cam selection

The current going through the harness will more or less split evenly as it
branches off through the harness.  Think of it this way, you have all the
current coming in through main power feed which branches out into more
than one wire so the current is also split.  Since you have less current on
each wire the wire doesn't need to be as large as before.  That's why the
wires get smaller and smaller.  If this sounds absurd don't ever look at an
aircraft electrical system.  On the Apache's at work the majority of the
wiring is 22 to 20 gauge carrying either 115VAC or 24VDC.  Tripped me
out at first!  The thing to remember is that these circuits are all 5A to
15A.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>I am in the process of copying a factory power door lock harness for my 71
>SX and I am puzzled as to why the factory uses two or three different
guages
>in the same harness. It comes out of the fuse box as 10 Guage (thick orange
>power feed), then that is spliced into 12 guage which runs to the switches.
>From the 12 guage there are splices of 14 guage to the solenoids. What's
the
>theory behind this? You would think the harness would be limited in it's
>capacity to the thinnest wire used in the harness. Any insights? I know
zero
>about electrical current draw or amps.
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 15:08:23 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: HEI Conversion Completed

Jim,
For the conversion I've always heard 10 gauge recommended going
from the fuse box to the HEI.  It doesn't make sense at first that it
should go from 12 to 10 at the fuse box but supposedly there is some
kind of consideration that the way the factory ran the looms the wire
was longer from fuse box to the HEI so you would have more of a
current drop due to a longer wire.  The way I always did it was to
run 10 gauge back to the fuse box.  You can unbolt the fuse box
connector from under the hood for the engine harness.  Looking at
the back of the connector you can remove the spade that hooks
to the original resistor wire.  Uncrimp this spade and replace the
20 with the 10.  I use a bit of solder to make sure it's got a good
connection and when your done it'll work just like factory.  The
reason you need to do this is that if your not letting the HEI get
the full amount of current it will still work but not at full output.
The other thing is that the cars that came with HEI used
different plugs and you didn't mention replacing them.  I
used plugs from a '76 application and changed heat ranges from
there.  These plugs were supposed to be gapped at .080" but
gapped them at .060" since thats what seemed to work the best.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>Mike,
>    According to my shop manual the wire from the '+' side of the coil to
>the firewall is 20 gauge resistor wire(the points ignition).  From the
>firewall to the ignition key it is 12gauge wire.  I figure I should be safe
>with 10gauge from the 'Batt' terminal of the HEI distributer to the
>firewall.  Agree?
>
>Jim Brady
>1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
>http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
>bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
>>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 20:02:11 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Non Olds, Dumb

In a message dated 12/6/98 4:49:19 PM EST, krzy4evr@usit.net writes:

<< For all of those who aren't "up to snuff" on their e-mail shorthand, click
the 
 following link and catch up on all the new innovative shorthand ideas..!!
 
 
 http://www.netlingo.com/e-mailsh.html >>

Thanks, but where's WOT?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 19:08:21 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Gas odor/hard start

The other 5% is from the choke hanging shut and flooding it out.

Mike B

>Bruce,
>Needle and seat in carb, reset float level to specs. At least 95% of time
>thats the problem.
>Lou
>
>----------
>> From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Gas odor/hard start
>> Date: Sunday, December 06, 1998 6:45 PM
>> 
>> Excuse me for not paying attention the last time this question was
>answered.
>> When the engine is hot, it's hard to start as though there's no gas in
>the
>> carb, but there's a strong smell of gas coming from the carb, but no
>visable
>> leak anywhere. It's the original Rochester 4bbl. Where should I look
>first?
>> TIA
>> Bruce
>> 75 Delta 88 conv.
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 20:10:11 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Gas odor/hard start

In a message dated 12/6/98 7:56:27 PM EST, lbiggs@intertek.net writes:

<< Needle and seat in carb, reset float level to specs. At least 95% of time
 thats the problem. >>
 
Thanks Lou, I'm on it.
Bruce

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 20:20:22 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: Non-Olds or SE, sorry

What other free email providers are there other than Yahoo and Hotmail?  And
what aare their url's.  Thanks.



Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 21:28:56 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Engine ID

Not on the list, respond to Atvman@rochester.rr.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Kevin Grover" <Atvman@rochester.rr.com>
Subject: h*lp ID'ing my engine

I have a olds 350  that's supposed to be a 68, but I can't verify that from
the FAQ, according to that it's a 72-74,  I have 8 heads. And I think there
is a 22 on the block.  This is out of a cutlass, I think,  Any h*lp with
this would be great, also if you have any specs on this engine, aka hp,
torque, etc.  that would be great.  Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 21:34:16 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 3.8 V-6 engine noise+smoke 

Not on the list, respond to msingh@tristan.tn.cornell.edu if you can
assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Mritunjay Singh <msingh@tristan.tn.cornell.edu>
Subject: 1986 olds 98 engine noise+smoke

I recently bought a 1986 olds ninety-eight with a 3.8L V6
Fuel-injected engine. It runs very loud and after running for about a
minute starts giving out huge amounts of blue smoke. Any ideas on what
this indicates?
Thanks.
- -Mritunjay

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 21:19:27 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Rubber door seals for 82 cutlass supreme

GM parts are probably better, but I noticed Whitney had some listed at a
very reasonable price.
Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 21:25:43 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Response to Idle Problems :::> Long

>     I don't believe the rear vacuum break should be connected to the air
>cleaner. It needs constant vacuum, and the air cleaner is more likely a
vacuum


In '77 the rear break was the secondary break.  It was set to pull the choke
open farther than the front break.  Its vacuum supply was plumbed through a
thermal switch mounted on the air cleaner housing which only supplied vacuum
above 62 degrees.    '78 to at least '80 used the same set up, but the
thermal switch was set to open at 70 degrees.  Basically an emission
gimmick.  '76 (and prior years?) had it set up in the opposite fashion.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 21:25:59 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: 403Ci 4A - 4B Difference? 

Hello all.

Just spent several hours pouring over the FAQ and other locations. I have
all the specs but never found anything about any difference between the
403Ci 4A or 4B engines.

Is there any internal difference other than years built?

How about a '77 403 4A from a long dead 442. Would this engine have any
factory performance components beyond the 403's used by GM across the board?

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

ICQ# 5209322 = "CC-IROC-SS"
Personal ICQ Communication Center:
http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
Project Questions To:
mailto:cc-iroc-ss@CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 21:31:45 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: 403Ci 4A - 4B Difference?

Ahh yes, yes it does. The 403 is a nice engine to work with, because of its
size, can use big block and small block things. You can run the Edelbrock
heads on it, but then you have to run a Edelbrock SMALL block intake. Anything
for an Olds 330 or 350 Will fit it, and Edelbrock also has a Performer RPM Cam
that makes it quite a nice runner. These are great engines, and I'm trying to
find a good one for a build up for my friends TransAm, the 305 in there is
weak. Well, I hope this helps you out.
Kelly Erickson
www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 21:44:40 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold

Chris,

If you still have the manifold, I am interested.  Unfortunately, I'm in VA.

Regards,
Fred
>I switched the intake manifold in my 66 Starfire to an Edelbrock performer
>this weekend. So now I have a spare cast iron factory intake which I have
no
>use for. I hate to throw it away since it may be of use to one of you.
>
>The intake is in good shape.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 21:46:49 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Response to Idle Problems :::> Long

In a message dated 12/6/98 6:27:25 PM Pacific Standard Time,
FSNissen@worldnet.att.net writes:

<< 
 In '77 the rear break was the secondary break.  It was set to pull the choke
 open farther than the front break.  Its vacuum supply was plumbed through a
 thermal switch mounted on the air cleaner housing which only supplied vacuum
 above 62 degrees.    '78 to at least '80 used the same set up, but the
 thermal switch was set to open at 70 degrees.  Basically an emission
 gimmick.  '76 (and prior years?) had it set up in the opposite fashion. >>

      My mistake..the Chevy's used the rear for the secondaries....the Olds
use the front...since it attaches to the choke, I would guess that is why it
doesn't need much vacuum.  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 21:47:22 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold

Thats nice, but why a Performer? Why Not a Performer RPM?

------------------------------

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 21:55:20 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: OL4B Manifolds (Was Re: Rejoice with Me!!)

Thomas (sorry it took me so long to respond to this) and List,

I read about the lack of a hot air choke provision on your OL4B.  I have 2 of
these, and one of mine has a rather odd hot air choke provision.  It seems the
openings are on either side of the carb mounting area, a small hole that would
look like a place to install a brass tube to hook to the choke coil mount, I
guess you'd run back around to the passenger's side of the intake to hook up
to the choke coil housing.  Only one has this, the other one has the older-
style choke coil mount directly on the intake (I noticed that those C-word
intakes like the one on my truck use those a lot), the one with the remote
choke coil is factory-carved out for a QJ or other spread-bore carbs and the
one with the holes for the carb-mounted choke coil (as strange as they look)
isn't cut out, it looks like it's for a square-bore carb, however, both have
two sets of carb stud/bolt mounting holes, and even though the one isn't cut
out for a spread-bore the material is there if you'd want to grind on it.

Anyone with these intakes have similar sightings?

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1646
*********************************

