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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1681


oldsmobile-digest     Tuesday, December 22 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1681



later engines down on power (was 455 engine)...
Re: 68 H/O questions
RE: Looking for Radio Upgrades
RE: roller rockers on SB Olds?
Re: Rear woe
RE: A-body styles
Re: A-body styles
Re: 68 H/O questions
RE: Rear woe
Re: roller rockers on SB Olds?
Motor Oils
squealing fan fixed
Re: roller rockers on SB Olds?
Re: roller rockers on SB Olds?
Re: roller rockers on SB Olds?
RE: roller rockers on SB Olds?
SV: Once more into the breach, dear friends: You are all ignoring Karl
Re: 350 PISTONS in 307
Re: roller rockers on SB Olds?
Re: A-body styles
RE: roller rockers on SB Olds?
List appreciation
Re: later engines down on power (was 455 engine)...
Re: 68 442 ?
Re: SV: Once more into the breach, dear friends: You are all ignoring  Karl
Re: '99 Olds Nats??
Re: '99 Olds Nats??
off for the holidays
North Texas Body Shop Recommendations needed
Re: bashing the 350 Buick
Re: 50 fastest US production cars
Re: A-body styles
Re: looking for 72 Supreme
RE: North Texas Body Shop Recommendations needed
Re: VIN Decoder (was: Still looking for cowl tag codes!)
Re: North Texas Body Shop Recommendations needed
Re: 50 fastest 
was 50 fastest/now GM limitations/motors
Thanks Randy (was:  roller rockers on SB)
RE: 50 fastest 
Re: A-body styles
Re: 50 fastest (non-Olds)
Re: 50 fastest 
Re: Thanks Randy (was:  roller rockers on SB)
7a Vs. 5A
Re: 50 fastest
Battery in rear wiring opinions needed.
W-30 Stripe Location
Phone number for Fusicks
Re: Radiator Flushing/Cleaning?
Re: Phone number for Fusicks
Re: Phone number for Fusicks
Re: Phone number for Fusicks
Re: Phone number for Fusicks
Re: battery size
Re: Motor Oils
Re: 12 bolt gears
Re: 455 hot engine for sale fast
Re: Vega thread, joke to you, not to a Vega owner!!
Re: Cylinder Wall Cross-Hatch Degree
Re: Rear woe
Re: cylinder wear vs high compression

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 11:20 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: later engines down on power (was 455 engine)...

One more reason for this is reduced ignition timing - a lot of 70's 
engines have far too little ignition advance for max power, especially 
at lower rpm. The reason was to keep NOx emissions down. Recurve the 
distributor, increase the initial timing, and you'll find a whole lot 
of new horsepower you didn't know your engine had.

   I mention this because it's the easiest thing to do, compared to 
finding ways to increase compression ratio, etc. 

   Disclaimer :  changing the timing from stock is illegal according 
to the EPA and punishable by large fines according to the law. 

   You won't pass a smog check in CA with ignition timing different 
from stock factory settings.

   Interesting fact : it doesn't take very long to swap a distributor, 
and stock distributors are easy to find in junkyards.


- -John Carri

'72 Cutlass Supreme
'73 Plymouth Road Runner

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 11:04:58 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: 68 H/O questions

north of Atlanta   and I think it is sold


Vinny
62 Starfire 
68 Hurst/Olds

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 11:13:58 -0500
From: Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca
Subject: RE: Looking for Radio Upgrades

I recently attended a swap meet and I found a guy who will refurbish you
stock delco and convert everything to new updates electronics, still
preserving the stock look. You can get stereo now. It was very interesting
the way he rigged an AM delco radio to work as AM/FM as well. Using the
on/off knob, you turn the radio ON and by default you get FM. Turn the radio
OFF and then ON (within a small interval of time) and it would change to AM.
OFF/ON to FM. It was really cool, however the range finder window still had
the AM scale and hence you would have to look for your station. He charges
about $300-$450 to update your radio. He had quite a selection and also has
a catalogue he goes by to inventory his stock. Although for his use only. I
have his business card at home, will have to remember it tomorrow.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	mputz@interhop.net [SMTP:mputz@interhop.net]
> Sent:	Sunday, December 20, 1998 3:43 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	RE: Looking for Radio Upgrades
> 
> My AM/FM radio in my 72 H/O Replica is shot.  I am looking to either put a
> rebuilt(as original) or (with new electronics), or one that is new, but
> doesn't look too out of place.
> 
> Can anyone point me to someone that could help with any of these options.
> 
> Thanks....

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 11:26:43 -0500
From: Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca
Subject: RE: roller rockers on SB Olds?

I used CompCams High Energy roller rockers. Like the Magnum but for a small
block 350. My primary reason for changing them was my new stock valve train
was to noisy due to my cam which changed the stock valve geometry. Couldn't
get them to quite down so changed to roller rockers. They still make a
little noise but I've learned to live with it. Otherwise they work fine.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Rebel1 [SMTP:rebel1@raex.com]
> Sent:	Monday, December 21, 1998 7:41 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	Re: roller rockers on SB Olds?
> 
> I bought the Comp Cams Magnum set - they fit under the valve covers nicely
> - the
> only problem I had was I didn't use any thread lock on the screw in studs
> during
> intial assembly and had two of them come loose - put a little thread lock
> on and
> they've been happy ever since!  They don't require any head machining.
> 
> Semantana Chris (ONEX) wrote:
> 
> > > Has anyone out there in list land put roller rockers on a small block
> > > Olds?
> > >
> > > I would like to do this, but without machining heads as is required by
> > > some
> > > parts manufacturers. If you have successfully done this, please let me
> > > know
> > > what you have used.
> > >
> > > Most (if not all) roller rockers conversions require machining the
> heads
> > > for rocker studs, a la chevy.  I've just recently checked into this
> > > conversion for my W-31.  I've talked with Custom Speed from Ohio, who
> > > makes Harland Sharp and I've also talked with Dick Miller and Greg
> Rollin
> > > from the list.  It looks like the only kit that will fit under the
> stock
> > > valve covers is the one offered from Supercars.  Although, Dick Miller
> > > said one of his Harland Sharp kits will fit under the stock valve
> covers,
> > > you would just have to use a thicker than normal valve cover gasket.
> > > My plans are to use the kit from Supercars, I think it's also a bolt
> on
> > > kit.  And hopefully this spring I'll put the motor together.
> > >
> > I believe the kit from Supercars is ~$360, the kit from Dick Miller is
> > ~$440.  I can't recall the exact numbers offhand, I'd suggest checking
> their
> > catalogs or possibly webpages or you can just pick up the phone and give
> 'em
> > a call.
> >
> > Chris Smetana
> > Terre Haute, IN
> > http://www.abcs.com/chris
> >
> > 1969 W-31
> > 1969 4-4-2 parts car
> > plus others
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 11:39:55 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Rear woe

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> 
> Reading all of this stuff about crush sleeves, preload, backlash and the
> like, 

A SNIP OR TWO HERE
	
> clear as mud. I'll stick my tinkering to less complex things I guess!

Less see, you take the cap off the radiator by turning.......which
direction?  Well, I'm quite that bad, but I do admit to not being much
more than a rookie mechanic.  I'm just glad not to be on this list by
myself and, from time to time, not have a clue what the heck someone is
talking about.  Thanks Greg.  BTW, everyone have a Merry Christmas (or
other religous equivalent) and a Happy New Year.  And Greg, come get the
freezer you left open down here in Ky.  Yesterday it was 61 degrees and
right now it is 18 degrees.  PLEASE shut the freezer door.  It's getting
too cold to work on the Oldsmobiles.

Don Sowers

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 11:52:35 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: A-body styles

> > If the car is a Cutlass (and JUST a Cutlass, not an "S", not a
> "Supreme",
> > and I don't even know what an "SX" is), then it has to be either a Sport
> > Coupe or a Holiday coupe, right?
> 
> Again, correct.  Except in 71/72, there were no post cars.
> 
Ah, yes, I thought so too ..... BUT, I was checking out the owners cars on
442.com a couple days ago (to check and see if my car was added yet, hey
Bryce, did mine submittal get overlooked or what?) and I was scrolling
through the 72s when what do I come across, a 72 4-4-2 W-30 ~post~ owned by
Jason something don't recall.  So I go check it out and sure enough there's
a post AND the VIN for the car in the description.  Now I know all the 71-2
specific stuff as it pertains to the exterior can be switched over to a 70,
so the pictures aren't solid proof, BUT if someone breaks that vin down I'm
sure we would know what we are looking at.  BTW, he said it was 1 of 19 made
in 72.  Very interesting.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 11:50:15 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: A-body styles

Now moving to convertibles...

There's no such thing as a "Cutlass S convertible", is there?

Why did Joe P. once write (in the "engine offset" thread) that the
convertible was based on the notchback body style, when the only real
differences are with the roofs?
_______

Brian,  the answers to virtually all of your questions are "yes", however
there is one thing.  Note that we're only talking 70-72 cars here.  The
Supremes (57 body style) differ from the Sport and Holiday coupes (77 and
87 body styles, respectively) in the rear quarters as well as the roof.
The "fastback" bodies have a tapered fender with a sort of "teardrop" shape
and a feature line above the rear wheel.  The Supreme has a more square
rear quarter, and instead of the feature line, the upper edge of the fender
peak forms a feature line behind the door.  The 70-72 converts use this
squared off rear quarter, thus my comment that all the converts were based
on the Supreme body.  This is different from the 68-69 cars, where the
converts _were_ based on the "fastback" body.  Note also that Olds was the
only GM division to build a convert off the notchback body.  Buick,
Pontiac, and Chevy all retained the "fastback"-derived converts in 70-72.
Interestingly enough, the Supreme 57-style body is actually related to the
shell used on the Monte Carlo and Grand Prix, though those two cars used a
longer wheelbase while the Supreme retained the 112" wb of the other
coupes.  The extra length appears to be primarily in the front fender
behind the wheel opening.  Another trivia bit is that while these cars
(Monte, GP, and Supreme) are usually referred to as the "A-Special" bodies
(as opposed to the A-body), a 1970 Motor Trend article refers to them as
G-bodies!

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 12:11:05 EST
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Re: 68 H/O questions

I've called him the car has been sold to a guy who does restorations, Chris
CHRIS SOMMERVILLE
69 442SC
STARFIRE V8?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 12:11:40 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: Rear woe

> freezer you left open down here in Ky.  Yesterday it was 61 degrees and
> right now it is 18 degrees.  PLEASE shut the freezer door.  It's getting
> too cold to work on the Oldsmobiles.
> 
I bet that Arizona trip looks good about now :)

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 09:47:26 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: roller rockers on SB Olds?

I have a set on one of my 403's.  I used Harland Sharpe rollers.  I used 
Comp Cams screw in studs and pushrods.  I had no problems once I got the 
correct pushrods. Summit sold me the wrong set the first time.(only time 
this has happened with Summit)



>Has anyone out there in list land put roller rockers on a small block 
Olds?
>
>I would like to do this, but without machining heads as is required by 
some 
>parts manufacturers. If you have successfully done this, please let me 
know 
>what you have used. 
>
>tia
>
>roger hitson
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 12:50:59 -0500
From: EJ <oldsluvr@bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Motor Oils

I'm looking to start puting synthetic type oils in my cars. One reason
especially is my Toro is blowing a little smoke, and in addition my
truck sucks it up like there's no tomorrow. I was figuring on going with
20w50, and since winter in the NE, is really not the most opportune time
to be doing this, i thought maybe synthetic, or a synthetic type blend
even though much more expensive, might be the way to go, as i thought i
have heard/read somewhere in the past that it flows much better when
cold then regular oils, as well as it maintains it's viscosity more so
during normal operating temperatures without breaking down as quickly as
regular oils, which i would think would also help in controling
excessive use and smoking. 

Am i right ?, wrong ?
Thoughts ?, experience ?
Anybody ???
TIA
EJ
- -- 
"EJ"  In Hamilton Township, New Jersey, suburb of Trenton
On digest where availabile, not regular mail
E-Mail: oldsluvr@bellatlantic.net
                               The "Fleet"
1979 Pontiac "Olds organ donor" Trans Am T-tops Rebuilt Olds 6.6L 403 
     4bbl-TH350 Performer Cam and Intake.....going into the Calais
     For Sale. 
1984 Olds Cutlass Calais T-Tops 5.0L 307 4bbl-TH350-2.14 gears K+N.....
     soon to be 6.6L 403 4bbl, and hopefully some better "rear" gears
1985 Olds Toronado 5.0L 307 4bbl-AOD(newly acquired Sept. 98). 
1992 Lincoln Mark VII LSC Moonroof 5.0L 302 EFI HO-AOD-3.27 gears
     inner fender baffle removed-K+N.
1992 Ford F-250 Reg-Cab 4WD 7.5L 460 EFI-E4OD Auto-3.55 gears.
     3-inch converter-dual outlet flowmaster 3 chamber.
     Complete K+N(no more factory air-box)-ADS Super Chip-Spitfires-
     Accel Super Coil-Cap-Rotor & 8.8 wires.
1994 Toyota Camry Sedan 4-banger-(Wow we could have had a V6!)-"mili
     -liter"-AOD. K+N (why did I even bother, still a slug!) 
     My SO's rider

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 13:01:44 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: squealing fan fixed

thanks to all of those who helped me with the squealing fan belt
problem.  I ended up putting an alternator on it because the outward
play in the bearing and the squeak made it seem evident that even if the
problem wasn't the alternator, I would have to replace it soon.  I felt
really stupid though when I found out that the alternator belt was fine,
but I had put the wrong PS belt on it, and it was slipping
tremendously.  Oh well, live and learn I guess.  The car is still for
sale, complete with a new alternator and new shocks all around, plus all
the other things I mentioned in my ad.
Brian.

Robert Stoneham (EUS) wrote:
> 
> Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List - http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/
> 
> I have heard that some of the belts on these engines require precision
> angles on them to prevent squealing. Many after-market belts must have
> incorrect angles or something.  Have you tried original GM parts? Had a
> similar problem on my car when I replaced belts, but my A/C compressor belt
> was the culprit. Tries the anti-squeak spray, but lasted only a day or so.
> Went out and bought one from my GM dealer and no squeaks since (5 years
> ago).  Just my experience... Good luck!
> Robert Stoneham
> 86 CS - 307, 200R4 (Pristine)
> 78 Ford - daily driver (Old Faithful)
> robert.stoneham@ericsson.com <mailto:robert.stoneham@ericsson.com>
> 
>         -----Original Message-----
>         From:   KWhite5590@aol.com [SMTP:KWhite5590@aol.com]
>         Sent:   Thursday, December 17, 1998 7:54 PM
>         To:     cshankle@home.com
>         Cc:     olds_gbody@listbot.com
>         Subject:        Re: squealing fan
> 
>         Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List - http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/
> 
>         12/17 Brian wrote:
> 
>         >It seems that the alternator is out
>         of alignment with the rest of the pulleys, although I have loosened
> and
>         tightened every mounting bolt I can find in every order I could
> think
>         of.  I changed nothing about the mounting or the location, and I
> have
>         tried two different belts, one smooth and one with teeth, and they
> both
>         do the same thing.  There seems to be no forward movement of the
>         alternator, which it appears to need to be brought back in line.
> 
>         I have had the same problem since August. Gone so far as
>         to space the alternator out using washers, but no dice, Squeals
>         like a stuck pig.
>         HELP!
> 
>         Kevin White
>         83 Cutlass Squealer Brougham
> 
> 
> ______________________________________________________________________
>         To unsubscribe, write to olds_gbody-unsubscribe@listbot.com
>         Start Your Own FREE Email List at http://www.listbot.com/
> 
> ______________________________________________________________________
> To unsubscribe, write to olds_gbody-unsubscribe@listbot.com
> Start Your Own FREE Email List at http://www.listbot.com/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 10:01:36 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: roller rockers on SB Olds?

It's been a few years.  The Harland Sharpes  cost about $215 from 
Summit, The the studs were around $60, the pushrods around $25.

>And if you did how much did it cost?


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 12:20:50 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: roller rockers on SB Olds?

>
>
>Rebel1 wrote:
>> 
>> I bought the Comp Cams Magnum set - <snipped> They don't require any head 
machining.
>> 
And Stephen Hoover seconded:
>I also use this kit on my 350. <snipped> I replaced the locking nut with 
>some poly locks for more
>accurate adjustments and reliability.
>
Thanks guys. Is the kit listed as being for Olds or is it listed as a Chebby 
kit? Seems like I remember someone's saying that kit for SB F*rd worked. 
What's the scoop?

roger

ps  I was aware of the high (my budget & values) priced kits (eg, Modello et 
al) and was lookin' for just this kind of information.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 12:23:05 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: roller rockers on SB Olds?

Ken Snyder wrote:

>I've used Dave Smith's Roller Rocker kit on my racing engine with no problems
>at all.  However, the studs are oversize and require redrilling and tapping
>the threads.  Dave's kit comes with bigger pushrods, guide plates, studs,
>rockers and polylocks.  I wouldn't build a racing engine without them.
>
I hear & comprehend. FWIW, I'm not lookin' to build a race motor. Just 
playin' with strret toys.

roger

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 10:22:59 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: roller rockers on SB Olds?

My Harland Sharpe's cost less than this and they fit under my 1971 350 
valve covers just fine. NO MACHINE WORK.  I did have a set of cheap 
chrome ones and the baffle was to large.  I used comp cams screw in 
studs, they worked great.  I also used comp cam guide plates.


>> Most (if not all) roller rockers conversions require machining the 
heads
>> for rocker studs, a la chevy.  I've just recently checked into this
>> conversion for my W-31.  I've talked with Custom Speed from Ohio, who
>> makes Harland Sharp and I've also talked with Dick Miller and Greg 
Rollin
>> from the list.  It looks like the only kit that will fit under the 
stock
>> valve covers is the one offered from Supercars.  Although, Dick 
Miller
>> said one of his Harland Sharp kits will fit under the stock valve 
covers,
>> you would just have to use a thicker than normal valve cover gasket.
>> My plans are to use the kit from Supercars, I think it's also a bolt 
on
>> kit.  And hopefully this spring I'll put the motor together.
>> 
>I believe the kit from Supercars is ~$360, the kit from Dick Miller is
>~$440.  I can't recall the exact numbers offhand, I'd suggest checking 
their
>catalogs or possibly webpages or you can just pick up the phone and 
give 'em
>a call.
>
>Chris Smetana
>Terre Haute, IN
>http://www.abcs.com/chris
>
>1969 W-31
>1969 4-4-2 parts car
>plus others
>
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 19:22:35 +0100
From: "Trond Pedersen" <trondped@c2i.net>
Subject: SV: Once more into the breach, dear friends: You are all ignoring Karl

> I used to have a moped with a variable speed belt drive...
> 
> Seriously, there are quite a few car makers who do or have manufactured
> belt driven cars.  A guy down the street from me has a DAF that he owned
> when he lived in Holland..that's a belt drive..
> Art


yupp thats my Volvo 66 
Volvo aktualy boght up DAF`s car produktion and all the DAF that was made
but not sold got the Volvo badge on it.
Only 3 gears on  it 
Forward-nutral-reverse 
it had a bitt better gear ratio one reverse so...
it did 130km/h in reverse as to 120km/h front (tryed it out on a frosen
lake whit a folow car to chekk the speed)



Trond Jarle 


and a Merry X-mas to ya all

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 13:33:02 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: 350 PISTONS in 307

In a message dated 12/21/1998 11:28:40 PM Eastern Standard Time,
igor455@home.com writes:

<< Can someone please
 clarify the differences between 307 and 350 and if/if not the 350 pistons
 can fit and why/why not.  Thanks. >>


I can't imagine the 350 pistons would fit simply because I can't believe Olds
didn't use a different casting for the 307.   Since I'm sure they used a
different casting, there wouldn't be enough meat to bore the cylinder large
enough, instead you would bore right in to the water jacket.

My .02
Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 13:29:52 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: roller rockers on SB Olds?

Roger,

It's listed as an Olds part.  Comp part # 1441-KT ($239.95 at Summit)

I have these on my '72 350. As stated earlier, don't forget the loctite on
the studs and polylocks are a good idea too. The crimp style nuts that come
with the kit kept backing off of mine. Polylocks are like $40 and well worth
it..

Good Luck,
Randy

>Thanks guys. Is the kit listed as being for Olds or is it listed as a
Chebby
>kit? Seems like I remember someone's saying that kit for SB F*rd worked.
>What's the scoop?
>
>roger
>
>ps  I was aware of the high (my budget & values) priced kits (eg, Modello
et
>al) and was lookin' for just this kind of information.
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 13:39:54 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: A-body styles

In a message dated 12/22/1998 2:55:28 AM Eastern Standard Time,
b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu writes:

<< Why did Joe P. once write (in the "engine offset" thread) that the
 convertible was based on the notchback body style, when the only real
 differences are with the roofs? >>


The were fast backs (real A bodies) in 68 and 69.  From 70 through 72 you also
had a notch back.  The notch back was really a modified G body (Pontiac Grand
Prix, Chevrolet Monte Carlo).  The Fast back, or S, had different 1/4 panels
then the notch back.  The fast back could be had in a hard top style (no post)
or a coupe style (post).  The notch back only (to my knowledge) came in a hard
top (no post) style.  The convertible was based on the notchback, and had the
notchbacks 1/4 panels.

I think I got that strait.....   
Bill (always wanted to build a fastback with notch back 1/4s) K

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 13:31:05 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: roller rockers on SB Olds?

> My Harland Sharpe's cost less than this and they fit under my 1971 350 
> valve covers just fine. NO MACHINE WORK.  I did have a set of cheap 
> chrome ones and the baffle was to large.  I used comp cams screw in 
> studs, they worked great.  I also used comp cam guide plates.
> 
> 
Did you use a normal valve cover gasket?  ie one not thicker than normal, as
was recommended to me by Dick Miller for use on one of his kits.  Also what
about pushrods?

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 12:48:40 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: List appreciation

Getting ready to leave for Christmas (Pheonix, AZ is a welcome
sight considering its 17 degrees F here in TN).  Just wanted to
say Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to all on the list and
to say in general how grateful I am for this list.  Being an Oldsmo-
nut since 16, this is the first time I have had a chance to get to
know and hear from others with the same affliction.  Kind of like
a support group.  Will be back on the 29th if anyone cares.  Most
important thing is everyone be safe.  Hate to hear of someone
getting hurt (both people and cars!).

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 11:50:22 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: later engines down on power (was 455 engine)...

>I mention this because it's the easiest thing to do, compared to
>finding ways to increase compression ratio, etc.

Okay, so what do I do.  My timing is set at 16 deg. BTDC.  I used a MORSO
curve with one heavy and one medium spring.  The timing was set at 3 deg.
BTDC before and it barley ran.  What do I do.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 14:01:46 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: 68 442 ?

Ken

Hey by the way, a quick update I forgot. That '68 442 I told you about is a
2dr post car. It's not a hardtop. Does that make it rarer?

Ed








At 09:50 PM 12/11/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Omega Man ....
>
>I am interested in the 69 ...
>I live in Gettysburg ....
>email me or call  717 528 4718
>
>Ken Swick
>swickka@pa.net
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 12:01:52 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: SV: Once more into the breach, dear friends: You are all 
ignoring  Karl

Trond Pedersen wrote:
> 
><snip>
> it did 130km/h in reverse as to 120km/h front (tryed it out on a frosen
> lake whit a folow car to chekk the speed)
You are a brave man Trond!  

Did you try a Rockford turn (turn left and then when the car spins around drop
it in drive and floor it) at that speed?

- -- 
Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 14:10:01 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: '99 Olds Nats??

In a message dated 98-12-19 16:17:45 EST, you write:

<< Tell K that Belleville, IL is south of Chicago, so is most of the rest of
 the state. K, you travel much? Just putting you on, keep me informed about
 trip. >>

So far, got one other to pick up in the St. Louis area, then SE towards TN (if
possible) there to pick up Greg Pruett, Clayton Pierce, and others.

Met them at Centennial, gonna be fun!

K

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 14:10:04 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: '99 Olds Nats??

In a message dated 98-12-18 16:16:30 EST, you write:

<< What can I expect to find in the way of parts or memorabilia? >>

Probably more than your intestinal fortitude can withstand.

I usually am to this point by Friday: "Yep, its just another original 1966
W-30 4 4 2."

Swap meets can have anything and everything. Really.

The other lis people are definately worth meeting. Me excluded.

Come anway, Jeff!

Coming from Chicago, will be passing by several yardes, any needs?

Close to El Paso?
Will be picking up a 371 long block there....

Anyway, see you then?

K

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 11:18 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: off for the holidays

   I'm unsubscribing for about ten days for the holidays. To all my 
new acquaintances on the list, thanks for all the info, help, and 
interesting discussions.  Happy holidays, everyone!

   Olds content:  Thanks to the list I now know my '72 Cutlass Supreme 
does not have an engine offset to the right!

- -John Carri
'72 Cutlass Supreme
'73 Plymouth Road Runner

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 13:40:32 -0600
From: "Darrin Johnson" <xdarrinj@ti.com>
Subject: North Texas Body Shop Recommendations needed

I am looking for body shop recommendations in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area.   I
would also consider almost anywhere in North Central Texas or Southern
Oklahoma if necessary.  I need someone who understands restorations and
preferably Oldsmobile convertibles (I know to stay away from North Texas
Auto Center in Lewisville).

Darrin Johnson
djohnsn@ibm.net
xdarrinj@ti.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 11:42:55 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: bashing the 350 Buick

Sorry, long day yesterday.  Must have been thinking about my 68 Camaro.  
I pulled the 330 from a 67 Cutlass in a local junk yard.  Sorry for the 
error.



>Never a 330 1968, the 330's last year was 1967. 68 was the 350s first 
year.


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 14:45:57 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: 50 fastest US production cars

In a message dated 12/21/98 10:12:45 PM Central Standard Time,
w.d.arnold@lmco.com writes:

<< 45)70 OLDS 442 W-30      13.88@95.84  455 W-30  auto     3.42
 50)70 Trans Am           13.90@102    400 RA    4 spd    3.91
 
 
 How does your car fair?
  >>


   Mine would be #45, with the 70 Olds 442 #46, and the TA falling off the
bubble. My 65 330c.i. Cutlass (slightly modified...of course) runs a best (so
far) of 13.87@108. I think that if I had steeper gears and a loose convertor I
would be in the low 13's.

Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 Cutlass
Dallas, Tx

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 11:51:24 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: A-body styles

There was a small number of notchback 72 442's I believe.

>
>The notchback body style was only available on Cutlass Supremes and the
>1972 H/O, and NEVER on anything else, correct


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 14:49:00 -0500
From: dgerow@student.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: Re: looking for 72 Supreme

Hi,

Would you consider a '71 from Massachusetts?  It's in decent shape, runs and
drives all day long.  I don't know if your heart is set on a '72, so I'll keep
this short.

Thanks,

Daniel R. Gerow
dgerow@stonehill.edu
http://www.stonehill.edu/~dgerow

OLDS44272@aol.com wrote:

>         I should have just started a new post. I am looking for a 72 Supreme.
> As long as the frame and possibly the floors are solid, that is pretty much
> what i want. I have 2k to spend. Ideally, a big block 4 speed would be great
> but i know about supply and demand. As long as the car is mostly there, or 
can
> run, that is about all i am interested in. The eventual plan is to make it
> fast. Of cousre i wouldn't distroy a decent car, but i have some ideals of
> what the finished car would look like.  Thanks SCOTT

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 14:45:45 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: North Texas Body Shop Recommendations needed

> I am looking for body shop recommendations in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area.
> I
> would also consider almost anywhere in North Central Texas or Southern
> Oklahoma if necessary.  I need someone who understands restorations and
> preferably Oldsmobile convertibles (I know to stay away from North Texas
> Auto Center in Lewisville).
> 
Isn't Jeff Lilly Restorations or something similar in the Texas/Oklahoma
region?

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 15:07:46 -0500 (EST)
From: dsenko@UU.NET (Drew Senko)
Subject: Re: VIN Decoder (was: Still looking for cowl tag codes!)

> the site with paint numbers for a whole bunch of years is   
> http://members.aol.com/drewinva/


Actually, I only have the Oldsmobile paint codes for 1971.  I have a
link to Bobby Etzel's site which has 1970 paint codes.


> he has vin decoding # but at very end of website has a bunch of info on
> paint colors  
> you can also find the link to the capital city rockets  olds club in
> northern va  drew is one of their members and is this month's member of
> the month  


As I am every month!  Brent, it's time to update the webpage!  I've
been member of the month since July I think!

The VIN decoder is still there and I have grandiose plans to add info
sent to me by David Brown and also complete my automatic VIN decoder.
I made an automatic decoder for Audi's (my other car) and it worked
out really well.
I have much more Olds info to incorporate so creating the auto decoder
will take some time.  It will be cool when it's finished.  To see how
the auto decoder works, you could look at my Audi VIN decoder at

http://members.aol.com/drewinva/audi/vin

The current (static) Olds VIN decoder is, as always, at

http://members.aol.com/drewinva/vin

 --                    ______________                     _
Drew Senko            / Convertibles \                    |\
dsenko@uu.net         \_____Rule!____/     .__====-_._____|_\______
Vienna, VA, USA                     O      [   ___  |-     |  ___  \
http://members.aol.com/drewinva       o o  =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)
_______________________________________________\_/____________\_/_____

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 15:21:57 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: North Texas Body Shop Recommendations needed

In a message dated 12/22/98 1:42:28 PM Central Standard Time, xdarrinj@ti.com
writes:

<< I am looking for body shop recommendations in the Dallas/Ft. Worth area.
I
 would also consider almost anywhere in North Central Texas or Southern
 Oklahoma if necessary.  I need someone who understands restorations and
 preferably Oldsmobile convertibles (I know to stay away from North Texas
 Auto Center in Lewisville).
  >>


   I can reccomend Todd Olander at Southwest Auto Trimmers (SWAT) in DeSoto
Tx. He has a real passion for GM A-bodys , especially 65 442's and 65 GTO's. I
think he has around 5 442's and 6 or 7 GTO's. He doesn't do paint and body for
a living (he says the trim business is too lucritive...pinstriping, bed liners
etc,etc.), but I have personaly witnessed his work with a paintgun and he is a
real artist. He is also pretty inexspensive . He doesn't usually take
commercial business, but if you call him and explain that I am reccommending
him he just might do it for you. 
Collyn Eastham

His PH# is 972-223-8914

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 15:26:37 -0500
From: tonwald@eta.k12.mn.us (Tony Waldner)
Subject: Re: 50 fastest 

This is a little Olds related and a little not.....
Regarding the 50 fastest "production" cars that were listed earlier and
below, Didn't GM have a 400 cubic inch limit on all cars except B,C, and E
bodies? If that is true how could car # 10 and car #36 be considered
production?  I never heard of Chevy putting 427's in Camaros from the
factory.  I have heard of COPO but only in recent years.  Were these cars
authentic? Or were they whiped up in local garages and called factory
production.  The Hurst/Olds has a way more authentic history than these 427
Camaro's, But they were a little far from "regular production"

Tony

 Since we are/were on the subject of respect for other GM lines
>                          1/4 et     engine    tranny   gears
>1.)97 Dodge Viper GTS    12.05@116    V10       6 spd    3.07
>2.)66 427 Cobra          12.20@118    427 8V    4 spd    3.54
>3.)90 ZR1 Corvette       12.8@113.8   LT5 350   6 spd    3.45
>4.)66 Corvette           12.8@112     L72 427   4 spd    3.36
>5.)69 Road Runner        12.9@111.8   440-6pk   4 spd    4.10
>6.)97 Hurst/Firebird     12.99@103    350       auto     3.42
>7.)70 Hemi Cuda          13.10@107    426hemi   4 spd    3.54
>8.)92 Dodge Viper RT/10  13.1@108     488 V10   6 spd    3.07
>9.)70 Chevelle SS454     13.12@107    454 LS6   4 spd    3.55
>10)69 Camaro             13.16@110.2  427 ZL1   4 spd    4.10

>13)90 Pontiac Firehawk   13.2@107     350       6 spd    3.54
>16)70 Buick GS Stage I   13.38@105.5  455 stg1  auto     3.64
>17)73 Pontiac Trans Am   13.54@104.3  455 SD    auto     3.42
>30)87 Buick GNX          13.70@102    231 T-V6  auto     3.43
>36)68 HURST/OLDS         13.77@103.9  455 W-30  auto     3.91
>37)68 Firebird           13.79@106    400 HO    4 spd    NA
>45)70 OLDS 442 W-30      13.88@95.84  455 W-30  auto     3.42
>50)70 Trans Am           13.90@102    400 RA    4 spd    3.91
>
>
>How does your car fair?
>
>Donny Arnold
>w.d.arnold@lmco.com
>
>72  Olds 442
>41 Chevy
>63 Chevy Truck
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 15:44:40 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: was 50 fastest/now GM limitations/motors

In a message dated 12/22/98 12:27:31 PM Pacific Standard Time,
tonwald@eta.k12.mn.us writes:

<< This is a little Olds related and a little not.....
 Regarding the 50 fastest "production" cars that were listed earlier and
 below, Didn't GM have a 400 cubic inch limit on all cars except B,C, and E
 bodies? If that is true how could car # 10 and car #36 be considered
 production?  I never heard of Chevy putting 427's in Camaros from the
 factory.  I have heard of COPO but only in recent years.  Were these cars
 authentic? Or were they whiped up in local garages and called factory
 production.  The Hurst/Olds has a way more authentic history than these 427
 Camaro's, But they were a little far from "regular production" >>

     According to my Camaro catalog, a 396 (375hp?) and 427 (435hp)  were
available in '69. I think what you are talking about motor size/body limits GM
had..it was more like a 10lb per 1 HP limit..GM must have used rear axle HP to
list these cars, (or NFL ref's) as the 427's dynoed at over 500hp regularly.
They consistently under rated all their high performance engines, probably for
insurance? I think we covered this whole topic before, but thats what I know.
Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 15:06:30 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Thanks Randy (was:  roller rockers on SB)

>Roger,
>
>It's listed as an Olds part.  Comp part # 1441-KT ($239.95 at Summit)
>
><snipped>

As above, thanks.

roger

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 15:39:34 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: 50 fastest 

> below, Didn't GM have a 400 cubic inch limit on all cars except B,C, and E
Until 70 on the a-body, actually the answer is yes and no.

> bodies? If that is true how could car # 10 and car #36 be considered
> production?  I never heard of Chevy putting 427's in Camaros from the
> factory.  I have heard of COPO but only in recent years.  Were these cars
> authentic? Or were they whiped up in local garages and called factory
VERY AUTHENTIC, and like all other 'collectible' vehicles, with
documentation of course.  There is actually quite a considerable amount
known about COPOs (central office production order I believe), and there's
still some things that aren't.
You could also argue that if the Hursts and Firehawks are included below.
then what about Yenko, Baldwin-Motion, Nickey, Saleen, Callaway, etc, etc,
etc

> production.  The Hurst/Olds has a way more authentic history than these
> 427
> Camaro's, But they were a little far from "regular production"
Ahh, I guess that's a matter of opinion.

Well, time to head home, later.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 15:48:26 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: A-body styles

There was a small number of notchback 72 442's I believe.
___________

Sorry, but not from the factory.  The notchback ("57") body style was only
used on the Supreme and the 72 H/O.  If you've seen one with 442 emblems,
they were not factory installed.  Unfortunately, since the 442 reverted to
an option package in 1972, there is not a unique 442 VIN.  The W-29 442
package was only available on four models that year, the Cutlass sport
coupe, two holiday coupes (Cutlass and Cutlass S, I believe), and the
Supreme convert.  Note, however, that there _were_ notchback bodies made
with the W-30 motor in 1972, as this was optional on the H/O.  As a result,
you _could_ have a notchback VIN with an "X" engine code in 72.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 15:53:40 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 50 fastest (non-Olds)

 I have heard of COPO but only in recent years.  Were these cars
authentic? Or were they whiped up in local garages and called factory
production.
________

Not to turn this into a Chevy list, but COPO cars _were_ factory assembled
and are documented as such.  They are not to be confused with the
Motion/Nickey/Baldwin/Yenko cars, though Yenko _did_ use factory-assembled
COPO cars in 1969.  Note that the COPO system was originally created for
handling special orders such as taxi cabs and other fleet orders, but was
able to be manipulated to produce these big block cars also.

We now return you to your regularly scheduled Oldsmobile programming

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 16:10:34 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: 50 fastest 

tony wrote:
>production.  The Hurst/Olds has a way more authentic history than these 427
>Camaro's, But they were a little far from "regular production"
>
>Tony
>
>
>>10)69 Camaro             13.16@110.2  427 ZL1   4 spd    4.10
>>36)68 HURST/OLDS         13.77@103.9  455 W-30  auto     3.91



What do you mean by authentic history. The L72 iron 427's were installed in
approx 500+ 69 Camaros and Chevelles at the request of Don Yenko, Dick
Harrell, Dana Cevrolet, Baldwin Chevrolet, Berger and a host of other
specialty car dealerships under a Central Office Production Order. The COPO
was used to special order fleet vehicles and other specialties. There were
also some COPO LT1 350 Novas factory built in 70. The 427 camaros have a
VERY authentic history. Ever see a YENKO SYC Camaro? Ever see a
Baldwin/Motion PHASE III Camaro? I could go on and educating you, but this
is an Olds list. Why do I keep seeing all this Chevy bashing. Olds,
Pontiac, Buick, AND Chevrolet are ALL GENERAL MOTORS!!. Most parts
interchange. ALL ARE GOOD!!! If your gonna bash, direct it at the Ford
camp. nuff said./

Ed
The Omega Man

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 15:08:31 -0600
From: Shang <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: Thanks Randy (was:  roller rockers on SB)

roger hitson wrote:
> 
> >Roger,
> >
> >It's listed as an Olds part.  Comp part # 1441-KT ($239.95 at Summit)
> >
> ><snipped>
> 
> As above, thanks.
> 
> roger


Be SURE to specify 1441-kit for small blocks. There is a 1442-kit for
big blocks and many non-olds savvy salespeople assume 1442-kit is the
one you need, because it is more common. The pushrods are longer in the
1442-kit.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 14:20:18 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: 7a Vs. 5A

Since I will be re-ringing my 307 and building it for propane the guy that
runs a Cylinder Head shop (the ones that bored my engine) has a set of 7a
heads that he is willing to trade me for my 5A's providing of course that I
let him rebuild them.  So the 7a's are supposed to be one of the best for SB
olds (maybe short of #5s).  My main concern is the CR., so we will have to
shave them a bit.  Also, according to the FAQ the 7a's are 64 cc chamber Vs.
5A's 67cc.  Is this correct and how much can we shave the heads Max. so to
still have a intake that fits and what better flow will 7a give me.  I am
willing to get the 7a's for sake of getting them.  Maybe try to look for a
'73-up 350 with smaller piston dish to get good CR.  Igor.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 16:44:58 -0500
From: tonwald@eta.k12.mn.us (Tony Waldner)
Subject: Re: 50 fastest

I Camaro? I could go on and educating you, but this
>is an Olds list. Why do I keep seeing all this Chevy bashing. Olds,
>Pontiac, Buick, AND Chevrolet are ALL GENERAL MOTORS!!. Most parts
>interchange. ALL ARE GOOD!!! If your gonna bash, direct it at the Ford
>camp. nuff said./
>
>Ed
>The Omega Man

Whoa Ed!!!!!

I am about the biggest defender of Chevies on this list!!!!  Just ask Jason
Labay and others!  Heck, Even Charlie "The Oldsmagnet" will back me up with
many o' flame directed at him! I just usually lurk when all of this silly
bashing starts up by the juviniles on the list.

I do need education in these areas.  I am old enough to remember the
publicity that the H/O got and I even remember drooling all over one at the
local Olds dealership here in MN back in '69.  I just don't remember those
Camaro's.  Thats all. so I need a little schooling!

Tony....The bashing lurker

70 442 W-30
70 442 W-30 convert
70 Toro GT W-34
65 Jetstar 88 w/4-speed
84 Hurst/Olds
85 Cutlass Salon 455 Drag Racer
92 Seville STS
and Ed, I also have a 89 Chevy Silverado that pulls the 85 Olds to the strip!

 _/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/+++\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_


                                        Tony Waldner
tonwald@eta.k12.mn.us                   Northeast Metro 916
                                         3300 Century Ave. N.
                                         White Bear Lake, MN
                                                       55110

 \_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_\_+++_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 16:26:31 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: Battery in rear wiring opinions needed.

A while back I posted a question regarding alternators for my '72 Cutlass
customization project.

Considering my high amp need Thomas Martin suggested I follow his solution
by getting a CS 144 and mounting the battery in the rear.

Thomas' reasoning makes total sense to me.  Now I need some advice on
wiring.

I'm considering two choices.  Each involves running a 1/0 fine strand cable
from Battery Positive in the trunk to the Starter Positive.  The wire would
go through the trunk (nicely tucked into a big fat grommet) and then tucked
up along the frame rail on the driver's side until it comes up to the
starter.  NOTE: an audio amplifier which will draw a peak of about 50-60
amps will be wired directly to the battery and switched On & OFF by the
radio remote relay.

Solution #1

Use a solenoid next to the battery (activated by key on "START") to supply
the current to the Starter.  This wire would only be "HOT" when starting.
All other power for the car would be supplied by a heavy gauge wire the
comes from the battery up along the driver's side of the tunnel ("hump")
underneath the carpet.  This would go to a junction block on the firewall.
The main Battery wire from the Alternator would go all the way back to the
battery.  This way current draw can easily flow between the Battery, Audio
Amplifier or Firewall Junction Block as necessary.

Solution #2

The 1/0 wire would always be "HOT".  I would run a heavy gauge wire from
the Starter to the Firewall Junction Block.  The Alternator Battery wire
would also go to the Firewall Junction Block.  This would mean the current
distribution for the Battery, Audio Amplifier or other Power Needs would
happen at the Firewall.

Of Note:

*  I'm completely redoing the wiring so I'm at the point where I can do it
any way I want.
*  I feel a little nervous having a "HOT" heavy gauge wire exposed under
the car.
*  I don't want to make this over complicated, just looking for good sound
Electrical Engineering.

If you are really interested I made a diagram of the power distribution for
Solution #1 and can send it privately as a JPEG.

I'm sure some of you have "been there done that" and I would really
appreciate your experience and/or opinions.

TIA

jp

Jonathan Parke
mailto:jonparke@together.net

'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
(near the end of a 5 year frame off customization)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 16:22:03 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: W-30 Stripe Location

On a 70-72 442 W-30 the stripe which rides along the body of the car is how
many inches below the 4-4-2 on the fender emblem. I have seen some to be
lower under the 4-4-2 than others which are right below it.

Pettrix@prodigy.net
\

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 16:23:44 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Phone number for Fusicks

Does anyone have the phone number for Fusicks??

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 14:18:34 -0800 (PST)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Radiator Flushing/Cleaning?

Vinegar will work fairly well, don't know about CLR, have never used
it.  I suggest reading the label on the CLR, and see what the
precautions are.  It may work better(quicker) than vinegar.
    Basically, just fill the radiator and let it sit.  It might take a
while (anywhere from a few hours to a few weeks) depending on how
calcified the radiator is.  Afterwards, just run some water through it
with a garden hose to rinse out any crystals that broke free and/or
that salad dressing smell :^).

Hope this helps,
          Stefan
          1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
          sgadecki@yahoo.com
- ---DYeager535@aol.com wrote:
>
>      Anyone in the list cleaned a radiator out? It's out of the car,
so easy
> to manipulate, and has calcium deposits. Karl suggested vinegar, and
I was
> thinking CLR (Calcium Lime Rust) but don't know how well the
radiator metal
> (all copper I think? 1981) would like CLR. Anyone successfully done
this? Any
> certain procedures or steps to take? I would normally not get rid of
a brand
> new radiator for a used one, but this a a factory oil cooler setup,
and it
> doesn't appear to have ever leaked (car has sat for the last 4
years, fluid in
> it was still good looking) Thanks, Dorian
> 

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 16:16:51 -0600
From: "72Hurst" <72hurst@net-email.com>
Subject: Re: Phone number for Fusicks

I don't see a 800 # listed, here is the only one I can find on their
catalog.
1-860-623-3118

John Kreitzer
72hurst@net-email.com


>Does anyone have the phone number for Fusicks??
>
>Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 17:22:36 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Phone number for Fusicks

In a message dated 12/22/98 4:15:20 PM Central Standard Time,
PETTRIX@prodigy.net writes:

<< Does anyone have the phone number for Fusicks??>>
(860) 623-1583
(860) 623-1589
(860) 623-3118 FAX
email: dj442@1x.netcom.com

Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 17:25:10 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Phone number for Fusicks

The # is 1-860-623-1583  and 1-860-623-1589  fax 1-860-623-3118  
email dj442@ix.netcom.com     Harry NJ  73 olds cutlass S 455/4spd. 8,920
miles

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 15:29:26 -0700
From: "Michael Maxwell" <michael@maxwell.cnchost.com>
Subject: Re: Phone number for Fusicks

Telephone 
860-623-1589 
          860-623-1583, 860-623-1589 
Hours 8 AM through 5  PM Mon-Fri, Sat 10 AM-1 PM         
FAX 
860-623-3118  24 hours a day. 
Postal address 
    P.O. Box 655 
    22 Thompson Road 
    East Windsor, CT 06088 

- -----Original Message-----
From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, December 22, 1998 3:15 PM
Subject: Phone number for Fusicks


>Does anyone have the phone number for Fusicks??
>
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 17:51:59 EST
From: Fireman431@aol.com
Subject: Re: battery size

Anywhere from a 900-1100 CCA would be sufficient. Try to get a 70 series
battery. They are a little taller, but should still fit under the hood. They
are made for high duribility applications.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 14:59:00 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Motor Oils

I have heard it can make you smoking engine smoke more.  But I haven't 
seen it in writing so I might be wrong.


. One reason
>especially is my Toro is blowing a little smoke, and in addition my
>truck sucks it up like there's no tomorrowit's viscosity more so
>during normal operating temperatures without breaking down as quickly 
as regular oils, which i would think would also help in controling 
excessive use and smoking. 
>
>Am i right ?, wrong ?
>Thoughts ?, experience ?
>Anybody ???
>TIA
>EJ
>-- 


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 18:04:05 EST
From: Fireman431@aol.com
Subject: Re: 12 bolt gears

If you are looking for something suitable in the street/strip range, look at
precision gear. Sorry, I dont have their number, but I'm sure it is the 800
number directory. I am running a 3.90:1 in my '66 442, and it is working out
great. NO noise at all.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 16:06:49 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: 455 hot engine for sale fast

Chris I'm at the in-laws tonight but I'll try to get you tomorrow.  :-)

Larry


- -----Original Message-----
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com <SOMMERVLLE@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, December 22, 1998 5:56 AM
Subject: Re: 455 hot engine for sale fast


>Larry where are you located? I'll give you a call tonight or you can call
>today @ (910)396-5420, Thanks Chris
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 17:17:17 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Vega thread, joke to you, not to a Vega owner!!

Peter, 
Didn't they call it a "Firesweep", had BIG fins, wanted to do "FINS" bigger
but would have to resort to Word Perfect. Heater, really?. Airvairs' had a
gasoline heater as an option, great for the drive in movies, I'm sure we're
losing a few here. Drive In Movies, jump in any time you want to Don S.
Lou
- ----------
> From: Peter Berusch <pber710840@email.msn.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Vega thread, joke to you, not to a Vega owner!!
> Date: Monday, December 21, 1998 9:03 PM
> 
> I don't know about you, Lou.  My Vega rocked.  Not quite there with my
'57
> DeSoto Adventurer, but trick nonetheless.  Peter.  With new hot water
> heater.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 17:35:51 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Cylinder Wall Cross-Hatch Degree

Peter, 
They probably have a reason because of the ring type, they will seat faster
with the 30o cross hatch pattern, personally I would do what they
recommend, one persons opinion, 40 to 50 degrees is SOP for standard
applications. 
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
- ----------
> From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
> On a 455 Mondello recommends a 43 degree cross-hatch pattern for the
final
> finish for the cylinder walls. I have a C&A zero-gap rings and they
> recommend a 30 degree pattern. I am better off going with what C&A
> recommends, right?
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 17:41:53 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Rear woe

Greg, 
I'll do your rear end, (that sounds bad), if you'll do my 8 track, don't
know from nothing about that stuff.
Lou

- ----------
> From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Reading all of this stuff about crush sleeves, preload, backlash and the
> like, along with having watched the guys on Shadetree Mechanic do this on
> one of their shows a while back, makes me glad my area of expertise is
> 8-tracks, not rear ends. ;-)  I understand exactly none of it. Almost as
> difficult as getting a straight answer on Olds valve train setups and
> what you need to do when you change cams to keep the tolerances
correct...
> clear as mud. I'll stick my tinkering to less complex things I guess!
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 22 Dec 1998 17:45:13 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: cylinder wear vs high compression

John, 
Great job explaining, remember, wrist pin offsets, not mentioned. 
Lou
> From: John Carri <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: cylinder wear vs high compression
> Date: Monday, December 21, 1998 5:00 AM

> Engines make power due to combustion pressure in the cylinder. Almost 
> anything that increases power (compression ratio, cam, ignition
> timing, whatever) does so by increasing the MEP (mean effective
> pressure) in the cylinder during the power stroke.  Since the
> piston-rod spends most of its time angled away from the straight line 
> connecting piston to crank mains (except at TDC and BDC), a part of 
> this downward compression force presses the piston and rings sideways 
> against the cylinder wall (same as tipping a chair up on two legs, it 
> wants to fall sideways). Pressing harder sideways on the rings while 
> they scrub up and down in the cylinder does just what you expect - 
> increases cylinder wear.
> 
>   Hence : Anything that increase MEP (read: horsepower) will also 
> increase cylinder bore wear, all else being the same.
> 
>   One more interesting point - since it's the angularity of the rod 
> that causes the sideways force, engines with low rod/stroke ratios 
> (i.e short rods or long stroke) such as the BB C*evy experience more 
> cylinder wall friction and wear than the same engine would with longer 
> connecting rods.
> 
>   Olds 350's have shorter strokes than C*evy 350's. All Mopar engines 
> have long rods for their strokes. There really are good engineering 
> design reasons why some engine brands are better than others! :)

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1681
*********************************

