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cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1635


oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, December 1 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1635



Re: Alternator output too high?
RE: SB Olds oil filters
G-Body 442 F/S in MO
visit counter, non-Olds, sorry!
Trophy deductions for radial tires 
'63 Dynamic 88
thank you!
Re: 71 442 question (last call)
Norwest/Well Fargo employee?
parts car 1
64 Cutlass F85 production
Re: visit counter, non-Olds, sorry!
Re: Alternator output too high?
Re: Alternator output too high?
UNBOUNCE: Paint Stripes - '67 4-4-2
'62 Starfire Assistance
Re: Speaking of g-body 442's...
'62 Jetfire FS (fwd)
Re: DRL's
Re: DRL's
Re: Trophy deductions for radial tires
1987 Cutlass Front End
Re: What do you think?
Re: Fw: 64 Olds Cutlass (V.I.N. Decoding)
Rear End
Re: 64 Cutlass F85 production
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Hot Rod
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: 1970 Cutlass
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: mini spool olds
Re: Alternator output too high?
Re: 71 442 question (last call)
Re: Cost for paint/body-job?
Re: 71 442 question (last call)
Re:  RE: Power Bucket Installation on a '70 Cutlass.
1952 option of car-watch
Re: 71 442 question (last call)
Re: Alternator output too high? 
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: 1987 Cutlass Front End
Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....
Re: Alternator output too high? 
Noise and vibration on 72 Supreme
Re: Cost for paint/body-job?
Re: Cost for paint/body-job?
Re: Cost for paint/body-job?
Re: Alternator output too high? 
Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....
Re: outrageous web site!!/'73 info wanted
Re: Rearend ratios
Re: Rear end
Re: Rearend ratios
Cruise Control
Re: Rearend ratios
Re: DRL's
performance stuff
RE: Noise and vibration on 72 Supreme

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 20:15:24 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator output too high?

What you are using is more a matter of amperage than voltage. You don't send
140 volts to a house that has more appliances, you send 110 volts with more
amperage to handle the load. That's why the higher the cold cranking amps
the battery has, the better. In other words, 16 volts is not better than 14
volts to run 12 volt accessories. Which brings me to say . . . I am not
really sure why an alternator puts out 14 volts. I've expended my limited
electrical theory expertise. Will someone pick up the ball from here. Olds
content: Oldmobiles have alternators.

- -----Original Message-----


><< 14 volts is about right. >>
>
>     Isn't it because you are "USING" voltage, and since some is "lost" it
>needs to charge at a higher rate to keep the battery at 12 volts?   Dorian
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 20:24:24 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: SB Olds oil filters

>          However, it looks like a Fram PF11 is the same where the gasket
> and
> threads are, but about 1/3 longer. Are they actually interchangeable
> therefore? The number stamped into the top of the filter (3a?) is the same
> on
> both of them. Anyone have experience with this?    
>  
> 
> Dorian
> 
I have been using the PH11 for years on my 72 455 with headers.  No
problems.  
Donny

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 19:36:30 -0600
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
Subject: G-Body 442 F/S in MO

Hi Folks,
           A co-worker went to visit his sister in Illinois for the
holiday, and spotted a G-body 442 on I-55 South outside of Bloomsdale,
Missouri.  Said it was parked at exit 157 on Interstate 55.  He was
doing 75 mph at the time, so he didn't spot any details, but it was
either black or burgundy.  Correct two-tone paint, and he DID spot a
"442" decal on the door panel.  I have no idea of price, phone number,
etc.  Just thought if anybody was up in the Bloomsdale, MO, area they
could give it a closer look.  (I already gave my friend a bad time about
not stopping!  :-)

Later,

Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
Columbus, MS         1987 442    

http://www.442.com/newman.html             1987 442
http://www.442.com/newmantape.html      Centennial Tape Ad

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 20:32:56 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: visit counter, non-Olds, sorry!

Can someone tell me what that page-visit-counter thing is called. I'm using
frontpage, and I can't seem to find it...
(That thing that says, "this page has been visited X times" or whatever)
Thanks y'all

Ray

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 19:40:24 +0300
From: john schiffman <joschiff@flash.net>
Subject: Trophy deductions for radial tires 

At the June annual Olds meeting in Texas I will enter my '69 442 for the
first time and feel I will score well in this category.  However, I am
thinking of buying radial tires and have given thought of the
implications of trophy point deductions for this upgrade.

Anyone have some experiences to share on this one?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 20:44:09 EST
From: Pzeditor@aol.com
Subject: '63 Dynamic 88

I'm about to kick the GTO habit and buy a twin to my first car - a 1963 Olds
Dynamic 88 convertible. I'd like to correspond with anyone out there who
either owns or is familiar with this model and year.

Thanks
Paul Zazarine

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 18:46:55 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: thank you!

I must extend my thanks to Butch for the help on the run on with my car.
Worked, and it didn't... Butch got me started and I turned to MSD to get
the whole scoop! The 1amp 200volts diode worked great, but I think a
connection I made was bad and it cut out later that night. I haven't
gotten the time to fix it again, but if it doesn't work then I'll be
back with another Q.

Again, thanks to Butch and all the list for your constant help!

I LOVE YOU GUYS!!! (sobbing) Oh, and Gals!

L8er,
Ben

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 20:50:33 -0500
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: 71 442 question (last call)

OLDS44272@aol.com wrote: 

<snip>

> Pictures can be found at
> http://members.aol.com/olds44272/home.html........Please let me know what you

If you buy it and change it back to a Cutlass S, you can get new grilles
for <$75 and sell the 442 grilles (if they're in good shape) for a
couple hundred.

- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
OCA# 30442

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 20:53:28 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: Norwest/Well Fargo employee?

If you work for Norwest or Wells Fargo, please email me privately.  Thanks!

Ray 
costanzo@netcarrier.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 20:00:13 -0600
From: bloom9@juno.com (C K)
Subject: parts car 1

 Had a really great time today. For the first of many times I started
stripping the parts car I recently bought. 

The back bench seat was already loose, so I finally got to see how they
come out of a '67 Cutlass. This made it easy to remove the two bolts that
held the back of the seat in place.

Next I removed the back seat arm rests along with the pieces above the
arm rests that fits between the back of seat and the inner body of the
car. Was surprised to discover that they were made of metal!

Then I removed the upper cloth pieces on both sides of the rear glass
after removing the side interior lights (remember this car is a C\S).
Next I removed the pieces that cover the rear speaker, which inabled me
to remove the light and speaker wiring.

After removing all the asorted cloth pieces around the rear glass, I now
focused on the inside of the truck. Mostly it was full of other car parts
that did'nt belong to my car (this car came out of a salvage yard, don't
ya know). So I cleaned it out hoping to find some goodies, but to no
avail.

Well, by the time I did this, it was time to pick up daughter at piano
lessons and I had to leave. I'll keep you posted.
Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
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or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 19:07:44 -0800
From: "Tim Wurtz" <tropical@micron.net>
Subject: 64 Cutlass F85 production

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BE1C94.B60E98A0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Does anyone know how many of these cars were put into production? I have =
my hands on one of these, Curious about the history of the car.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BE1C94.B60E98A0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Does anyone know how many of these =
cars were put=20
into production? I have my hands on one of these, Curious about the =
history of=20
the car.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0010_01BE1C94.B60E98A0--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 21:25:41 EST
From: OLDS44272@aol.com
Subject: Re: visit counter, non-Olds, sorry!

In a message dated 98-11-30 20:33:56 EST, you write:

<< Can someone tell me what that page-visit-counter thing is called. I'm using
 frontpage, and I can't seem to find it...
 (That thing that says, "this page has been visited X times" or whatever)
 Thanks y'all >>
        I don't have the program " frontpage" but i think another name for
what you want is a "hit " counter. that tells how many times the page is
accessed......SCOTT

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 21:22:31 EST
From: OLDS44272@aol.com
Subject: Re: Alternator output too high?

In a message dated 98-11-30 20:21:16 EST, you write:

<< << 14 volts is about right. >>
 >
 >     Isn't it because you are "USING" voltage, and since some is "lost" it
 >needs to charge at a higher rate to keep the battery at 12 volts?   Dorian
>>
        
           The battery in your car is a storage place for amperage.    When
you first start your car, the starter draws amps from the battery. Think of it
as like a swimming pool. As the loads, like headlights, radio, wipers, heater,
draw amps from the battery (like water when somebody does a cannonball into
the pool), it is the alternators job to see that the battery has a set amount
of power (volts) to be on-hand. So you would need to fill the swimming pool
after a few cannonball jumps into the pool to keep the water level the same.
.........I know this is a corny reference, but i hope it helps.........SCOTT

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 21:04:55 EST
From: OLDS44272@aol.com
Subject: Re: Alternator output too high?

        <<I wired the voltmeter directly to the switched "Gen Light" wire so
there
would be no voltage loss due to resistance. This is an internally regulated
alternator, so I figured it should be putting out something closer to 12
volts, not 14, especially at idle.>>

                          With the engine running a bit above idle ( maybe
1500 rpm?) the output of the alternator should be about 14.6 volts, at least
as far as today's cars. Is the voltage output at constant 14 volts on your
car, even at idle?  My 72 Cutlass 350 cid engine had a max alt. output of 13.9
volts.......Scott

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 22:34:14 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Paint Stripes - '67 4-4-2

Not on the list, respond to wisdom@mwt.net if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Paul Schulz" <wisdom@mwt.net>
Subject: Paint Stripes

Does anyone have a 1967 442 that you know has the factory paint stripes
still
visible?  I need to know the following:
	1.  Distance from top of fender to top of upper (wide) stripe.
	2.  Width of upper (wide) stripe.
	3.  Distance between upper and lower stripe.
 	4.  Width of lower (narrow) stripe.

Any help would be appreciated!  I am also looking for a working AM-FM radio
for this car.

Thanks,

Paul

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 22:36:33 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: '62 Starfire Assistance

Received this personally, maybe someone here can assist...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Mike McPherson <mike1932@sunset.net>
To: ab348@chebucto.ns.ca

Greg  I just bought a 62 starfire 2 dr.  Being my first olds I would like
to know where to buy parts. Recieve lititure and general knowledge about
the car.  Where should I start??? My name is Mike McPherson I live in Chico
Calif. If you can help me please send a e-mail me  Thank you Mike

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 21:36:29 EST
From: Nolds442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Speaking of g-body 442's...

Did it have a price??

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 22:40:04 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: '62 Jetfire FS (fwd)

Received this personally, I assume it's for sale.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 12:58:02 EST
From: Lcamino@aol.com
To: ab348@chebucto.ns.ca

I have a 1962 jetfire inrestorable condition. Do you think anyone would want
this car? Lcamino @ AOL.COM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 18:39:09 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: DRL's

> Bought a new S-10 Friday, if we unhook the resistor, will it kill
> the DRL's ALL the time, or will they work when reg. headlights are
> turned on or stay dead all the time.

It would kill whatever lights operate at reduced power, and only
when they would normally _be_ on reduced power. If they come on
at full power any other time, that would be through a different
circuit which would presumably be unaffected.

- -- Andy

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 18:50:48 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: DRL's

>> Well, strictly speaking they're using the turn signals, not the
>> parking lights;
>
> Ah, yes, the _OTHER_ filament in the 1157A...   ;-)

Well, yeees, but...

> Actually, are they still using 1157s or does GM use something else
> now (like a 3157, or something like that)?  I hate it when the 
> foundation of your world gets shaken.

Then I guess this would be a bad time to mention that those lovely
translucent amber bulbs are 1157NA (Natural Amber), not 1157A
(Amber). 1157NA are the factory-supplied version with the tint
you can see through; 1157A are the cheesy painted versions you
get at K mart that you can't see through at all until they get
wet and all the paint starts flaking off.  :-)

...although for some reason the factory would always use 194A
painted markers instead of 194NA, which do exist because I have
a few. Anyone with a '77-'80-something 88 or 98, for instance,
has four parking lights up front. The inboard bulbs are 1157NA
turn signals. The outboard ones are painted 194A bulbs, which 
are a perfect color match when new, but gradually turn a weird
white shade as the tint falls off the bulb.

One of these days I'll post a gorgeous photo of My Father's
Oldsmobile, a light-blue '78 88, taken at dusk with all its
parking lights glowing and Christmas lights reflected in the
windshield, taken when the car was two years old. This doesn't
have much to do with this subject but I remember all those
blazing lights and chrome it had up front...  :-)

- -- Andy

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 22:16:12 EST
From: Mr57olds@aol.com
Subject: Re: Trophy deductions for radial tires

In a message dated 98-11-30 20:41:30 EST, you write:

<< However, I am
 thinking of buying radial tires and have given thought of the
 implications of trophy point deductions for this upgrade.
 
 Anyone have some experiences to share on this one? >>

They deducted 3 points at OCA nationals in Springfield, IL this summer for
radials on my '57  They are correct width whitewalls,  but radials.    The
ride and driveability is well worth the 3 point deduction.   Still got a 1st
so not too disappointed.
Bruce
Mr57olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 22:23:50 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Yasczak <VJTD@grove.iup.edu>
Subject: 1987 Cutlass Front End

Does anybody know of any salvage yards in western PA that would have the front
end for my 1987 Cutlass.  I rearended a 1994 Buick Park Ave. last saturday
night and took out the header panel, headlights, & grills.  So far the new
parts estimate is around $1200.  I would like to find a complete nose rather
than buy all of the parts piece by piece since my car is not covered by the
insurance.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.
		Thanks, 	
			Robb Yasczak	vjtd@grove.iup.edu
			
			1969 Cutlass Conv.
			1969 442
                        1976 442	
			1987 Cutlass Salon (wrecked)
			1998 Intrigue GLS


			 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 22:28:14 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: What do you think?

Peter,
    Looked through my batch of pictures - and couldn't find one of the
interior... but as nice as the weather has been here in south east Ohio I may
just have to pull it out off the barn and get a couple of shots...  Grin!
I'll keep you posted as to when I get the pictures...
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a 'glide :-(
'75 Supreme - project car....
'82 Supreme - SB, 700R4, 3.73's - Grin!
'86 Supreme - V-8 - daily driver...


Peter Landowski wrote:

> If you have a picture of it can you upload it to a site? We then can all
> take a look...
> Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
> ----------
> > From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Re: What do you think?
> > Date: Tuesday, November 24, 1998 4:54 PM
> >
> > I did that on my '69 rag top and I really like it!  The car is painted
> '92 GM
> > Competition Blue (Really bright blue!) and has a black interior - the
> matching
> > dash and column really help bring the outside and inside of the car
> together!
> > Todd Daenzer
> > '69 rag top - 310hp tied to a 'glide :-(
> > '75 Supreme - project car....
> > '82 Supreme - SB, 700R4, 3.73's - Grin!
> > '86 Supreme - V-8 - daily driver...
> >
> > Peter Landowski wrote:
> >
> > > My 72 442 is being completely repainted. We have the front window out
> and
> > > the dash is out. I was thinking of painting the metal portion of the
> dash
> > > and the steering column the color the car is being painted(quasar
> blue). I
> > > know factory did not due this. THe metal dash and steering cloumn were
> the
> > > color of the interior. Do you think this will look good?
> > >
> > > Pettrix@prodigy.net
> >
> >

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 22:09:48 EST
From: Mr57olds@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fw: 64 Olds Cutlass (V.I.N. Decoding)

In a message dated 98-11-29 22:04:58 EST, you write:

<< If any one is interested in parts let me know. Thanks Tim >>

Tim,  I am interested in parts,  I have two, a convert and hardtop.  Both need
parts.  Where are you located?????   I am in Northern Ind.
Bruce
Mr57olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 21:51:45 +0000
From: f85@juno.com (Joe R Brockman)
Subject: Rear End

I was just wondering what kind of rear end I should put on my car.  I
have a 66 F85 with a 330.  I have 3.23 on it now.  i was wondering if
4.10's would be to much.  Plus would I be better off just finding a rear
end in a junk yard or putting in a new gear?  And how hard is it to just
put in a new gear?  I'm only 17 and still learning, I have my dad and
stuff, but he doesn't know to much about rear ends.  Any help would be
usefull! Thanks.

joe b
66 F85 

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 23:02:00 -0500
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: 64 Cutlass F85 production

F-85 Standard

2 dr club coupe-16,298
4 dr sedan-12,016
station wagon-4047

F-85 Deluxe

2 dr sport coupe-6594
4 dr sedan-42,237
station wagon-10,793

F-85 Cutlass

2dr coupe-15,440
2 dr Holiday hard top-36,153
2 dr convertible-12,822

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 22:26:48 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

Knowing the Paddock it is probably a GTO shifter being sold as a hurst olds
shifter just so they can save shelf space and get more mileage from the same
(basically) part but dont believe this will work it may bolt in but the
console is different...KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: Shang <shang@connect.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, November 30, 1998 5:39 PM
Subject: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock


>The Paddock is selling Hurst/Olds Dual Gate shifters. Anyone seen these
>or had any experiences? They are asking $499 - the unit looks nice in
>the picture, even has the rocket on the upper right-hand corner.
>
>
>Stephen Hoover
>Dallas, Texas
>'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 20:51:45 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Hot Rod

Check out the new Hot Rod Mag.  Inside the back cover the readers rides 
this month are all Oldsmobiles.  What is a W-40 by the way?  That hood 
looks ridiculous, wonder who made it. They should be shot!

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 20:54:47 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

Does anyone know if this is true.  What is the difference in the olds 
and gto versions? Taller or something?


sold as a hurst olds
>shifter just so they can save shelf space and get more mileage from the 
same
>(basically) part but dont believe this will work it may bolt in but the
>console is different...KK


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 23:43:42 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: 1970 Cutlass

James Meeks wrote:

> I have a 70 Cutlass with a 350 4 barrel.  There is a heat pipe that goes
> from the air cleaner "snorkel" to the right exhaust manifold.  Problem is, I
> don't have one and can't find one.
>
> Anyone know where I need to go to find one?

        My latest Year One catalog lists one that is supposed to fit 1968-1972
models with 350 and 455 V8's.  Part number is HP30.  Year One's phone is
1-800-950-9503.

Good Luck,
- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 00:03:49 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

> Does anyone know if this is true.  What is the difference in the olds
> and gto versions? Taller or something?
> 
It's an Olds shifter.  Pontiac's are like the 68/69 H/Os.  FAT sticks
with a big old top plate.

Trust me.  It will fit your olds perfectly.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 21:10:32 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: mini spool olds

B. Vosburgh wrote:
> 
> Does anyone on the list know if there is a mini spool for the olds   68
> O axle rear
> . I dont know if they even made such a part for the olds 12 bolt cover
> 10 bolt gear.   thanks guys    Butch



Butch,
I don't recall ever seeing a mini spool for any 12 bolt
rear.
And I have never seen a mini spool or even a full spool for
the 
O axle 12 bolt.  If it's a locked rear you want, I'm afraid
it's
time for the "C" word 12 bolt.      

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249

Web site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com
- -----------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 00:56:14 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Alternator output too high?

In a message dated 11/30/98 8:21:16 PM Eastern Standard Time,
comid@jellico.com writes:

<< What you are using is more a matter of amperage than voltage. You don't
send
 140 volts to a house that has more appliances, you send 110 volts with more
 amperage to handle the load. That's why the higher the cold cranking amps
 the battery has, the better. In other words, 16 volts is not better than 14
 volts to run 12 volt accessories. Which brings me to say . . . I am not
 really sure why an alternator puts out 14 volts. I've expended my limited
 electrical theory expertise. Will someone pick up the ball from here. Olds
 content: Oldmobiles have alternators. >>

i was told that in order to keep a battery charged at 12 volts, the charger
would need to be putting out a slightly higher voltage such as 13 or 13.5.  if
the alternator didnt keep the battery charging at 13 volts or so, when the car
is off you would have a 10 or 11 volt battery.  
jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 00:01:40 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 71 442 question (last call)

IT IS NOT A REAL 442!! As for the $1500 price, I don't know what type of
car your looking for. This car would need $$$ to get it to look decent..
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: OLDS44272@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 71 442 question (last call)
> Date: Monday, November 30, 1998 3:55 PM
> 
>                    I looked at this car today.  The vin number is
> 336871m207209.   The body tag on the top off the fire wall is  ST  71-336
87
> lan 42  4180. It has a 350cid motor ( i measured the width between the
heads
> it is 12 inches). The interior is decent except for the front bucket
seats.
> They'll need recovered. The seats are "ribbed", where the stitching is
> horizantal . Non a/c car. Both door panels had an "S" emblem. The glove
box
> door had "cutlass" on it.    No front or rear sway bars, boxed rear
trailing
> arms,or bumper cut outs. The front head light bezels are all silver. The
car
> is in western PA. Pictures can be found at
> http://members.aol.com/olds44272/home.html........Please let me know what
you
> think...............SCOTT     

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 00:06:53 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Cost for paint/body-job?

There was very little bondo used to fill in some low spots. The other
dings/dents were filled in with a heavy coat of primer. The primer was then
sanded to flow evenly with the rest of the body line. One coat of this
primer equals to about 3 coats of the generic stuff. I will get you the
exact name at a later post, I just can't think of the name right now.  
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: Cost for paint/body-job?
> Date: Monday, November 30, 1998 4:12 PM
> 
> Peter, did I read this correctly, you are using PRIMER to fill in the
dents?
> Is this bondo-filler you mean to say? OR actually spray primer? If it's
the
> primer to spray on, how many coats will it take to fill in a small ding?
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:	Peter Landowski [SMTP:PETTRIX@prodigy.net]
> > Sent:	Monday, November 30, 1998 5:04 PM
> > To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject:	Re: Cost for paint/body-job?
> > 
> > I am painting my 72 442 convertible right now. My friend and I are
doing
> > the work ourselves, so the following doesn't include labor. We stripped
> > the car down to bare metal and removed the trunk, hood, doors, fenders,
> > front window, bumpers,etc,etc,etc.. I am using primer to fill in all
the
> > dents/dings and to get it arrow straight. We used about 4 gallons of
> > primer on the car. The car is now as straight as it will ever be. 
> > I am using DuPont ChromaBase Base/Clear coat paint. 1 Gallon goes for
> > $200.00. 1 gallon should be enough to cover all the areas of the car,
even
> > on a convertible. As of now the cost is $1800.00 IN PARTS ALONE. This
> > includes stripper, primer, base, clear, tape, paper, sanding
> > discs,etc.etc...
> > 
> > When we finish I believe our toal should be about $2000.00 in parts
alone.
> > We have over 100 hours into the car and we are still not done. So I
> > imagine a body shop may charge by the hour. With 100 hours at $25.00
per
> > hour it would total $2500.00, but the 100 hours into the car is with 2
> > people. So then about $5000.00 for labor. Again, I don't know what
shops
> > charge per hour and $25.00 may be too low. Also a body shop may not be
as
> > meticulous as we are.
> > 
> > Pettrix@prodigy.net
> > 
> > ----------
> > > From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
> > > To: OldsML <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > > Subject: Cost for paint/body-job?
> > > Date: Monday, November 30, 1998 11:36 AM
> > > 
> > > 
> > > Hi Guys, 
> > > 
> > > back from the holidays... got the rear end done!
> > > 
> > > I am planning to get my baby painted next year. It is pretty straigth
> > but 
> > > will need some minor (bondo) body work. I know that paint and body
work 
> > > varies a lot in cost due to different quality and procedures. Could
you 
> > > guys tell me briefly what you had done for how much so I can get an
idea
> > 
> > > how much I may be looking at! Please include location.
> > > 
> > > I appreciate your help a lot. Regards, George
> > > --------------------------------------------------------------
> > > '68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
> > > http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
> > > --------------------------------------------------------------
> > 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 23:24:05 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: 71 442 question (last call)

> IT IS NOT A REAL 442!! As for the $1500 price, I don't know what type of
> car your looking for. This car would need $$$ to get it to look decent..
> > http://members.aol.com/olds44272/home.html
> > Please let me know what you think...............SCOTT

So it's not a real 442.  Big deal.  It's still a Cutlass.  How often do you see
a 71 442 for $1500?  Only the really lucky ones.  As far as the "$$$ to get the
car to look decent"   Well, it looks fine to me.  Depending on how much rust is
there, much hidden damage there is, but from the pictures and brief description
I've seen, the only $$$ you may need to spend for decent looks would be about
$40 to turn the tires around (whitewalls... euw...)  Maybe some cheap seat
covers (hey, if you don't care, why should you care if anyone else does, 
right?) 

C'mon folks, if we're looking for a "decent" (i.e. Class Zero show stopper)
numbers matching 442, you're not gonna be wasting time with a $1500 ride.  If
you're looking for something cool to drive, who really cares if it's not 100%
correct?  Scott, if you like the car, and it drives well, and looks as good as
the pictures, go for it.  If you want a full fledged correct 442, plan on
spending much more than $1500.  I respect someone alot more who'll take a
plain-jane'r and drive it, and love it, than someone who'll just throw $100000
at a car, then stick it in a garage and forget about it.

Just be very well aware, with a $1500 car, that's 25+ years old, there ~will~ 
be
problems with it.  Look it over well.  If your mechanical expertise falls short
of the mark, bring a buddy that is proficient, or take it to a reputable shop
for an inspection.  Be fully aware of the car's condition before jumping into
it.  But if you like the car, and you're satisfied with it's condition, go for
it!  It looks fine to me!

Take my GS, for example.  Looked like hell when I got it.  About ten shades of
primer, rust holes, etc.  Threw about $100 at it in bondo, primer, and paint,
and it looks acceptible now.  To me.  Lots of compliments about it, even though
it's still trashed (in my eyes.)  Gaping holes in each 1/4 panel, the wheel
wells were both rusted out, one side ~cut~ completely out.  Still is.  Plus,
it's only a Skylark.  Numbers not matching.  But it's a neat car, and turns
heads, and kicks butt.  I paid $1500 for it.  This Cutlass looks cleaner than 
my
GS right now.  It's not a bad price, if it's in decent mechanical condition. 
Don't feel pressured to buy it, but don't feel pressured ~not~ to, either.  
It's
your choice, but I think it looks just fine.  Except for the whitewalls...  :)

- -- 
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 00:13:07 EST
From: Ralllye350@aol.com
Subject: Re:  RE: Power Bucket Installation on a '70 Cutlass.

In a message dated 11/30/98 4:38:09 PM, you wrote:

>If it was an option on your car, then it should be pretty much bolt in,
>
>assuming you can find the right parts. Only hangup might be
>
>find a power source if you car wasn't equipped with power windows. In my
>
>66's the power for the seats came from the relay which
>
>powers the windows as well.
>

Cool, It is a 70-72 Cutlass 4-way power seat unit, I also have power windows
so that solve the power source problem. Well I'll let you guy's know how it
goes.

Craig Rose

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 00:37:29 -0600
From: "Jesse paggen" <paggen@cloudnet.com>
Subject: 1952 option of car-watch

I have a origional car-watch is it impossible to find the steering wheel it
originaly came in or am I better of selling this thing I found it in a barn
It is like new only the face has a crack and a red arrow on it The thing
has never been apart It works perfect I also do not know where to sell and
if so how much also is this a common clock or not It has the planet symbol
on it with the seconds hand going arround it It say's maar patent on it
also made in switzerland  please help if can paggen@cloudnet.com    MN 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 01:58:04 EST
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: 71 442 question (last call)

In a message dated 98-11-30 16:58:25 EST, you write:

<<             I looked at this car today.  The vin number is
 336871m207209.   The body tag on the top off the fire wall is  ST  71-336 87
 lan 42  4180. It has a 350cid motor ( i measured the width between the heads
 it is 12 inches). The interior is decent except for the front bucket seats.
 They'll need recovered. The seats are "ribbed", where the stitching is
 horizantal . Non a/c car. Both door panels had an "S" emblem. The glove box
 door had "cutlass" on it.    No front or rear sway bars, boxed rear trailing
 arms,or bumper cut outs. The front head light bezels are all silver. The car
 is in western PA. Pictures can be found at
 http://members.aol.com/olds44272/home.html........Please let me know what you
 think...............SCOTT      >>
Well for starters, it isn't a 442.  The vin should have read 344871M207209 to
be a 442.  442s also had 455's not 350's.  Check the head on the drivers side.
Look at the bottom left hand corner for the letter "G"  or look at the block
between the water pump and intake.  If there is a letter such as "F" then it
is a big block,  If there is a number then it is a small block.  All 442's
came with rear sway bars with boxed trailing arms.


W MACHINIES

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 01:16:43 -0600
From: "Ron Hengerer" <rhengerer@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator output too high? 

If it's putting out 12 volts it's no good.  13.6 to 13.8 volts across the
battery with the car at idle is good and is a quick and easy way to check
alternator output
Ron
- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, November 30, 1998 5:15 PM
Subject: Alternator output too high?


>While I was putting the new performer intake on the 66 Starfire, I hooked
up
>a new voltmeter to my old alternator.
>
>To my surprise the alt. is putting out about 14 volts at idle (~900 RPM).
>This seems high to me, perhaps high enough to cook a battery.
>
>I wired the voltmeter directly to the switched "Gen Light" wire so there
>would be no voltage loss due to resistance. This is an internally regulated
>alternator, so I figured it should be putting out something closer to 12
>volts, not 14, especially at idle.
>
>If it's bad, I'm not too surprised. It's old, a fairly generic rebuild, and
>has been used inconsistently through the years with a great deal of shelf
>time along the way.
>
>Should I replace it?
>
>Looking forward to your thoughts.
>
>TIA
>
>cf

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 02:43:04 EST
From: Socalolds@aol.com
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

Jason,
The shifter the Paddock is selling is the real Mccoy. Mr Gasket still makes
the exact Olds dualgate shifter and the top plate is being reproduced by some
co. in the east. IT is an exact copy. And I believe it comes with a correct
aftermarket cable.The only thing I think you may have a problem getting is the
wood grain for  the top plate. Still $450 ( or whatever they were asking) is
HIGH. If you're still thinking about it I have a new one-complete  I'll sell
you  for $399. Including an NOS cable.
good Luck
Dennis 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 02:51:19 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: 1987 Cutlass Front End

Robert Yasczak wrote:
> 
> Does anybody know of any salvage yards in western PA that would have the 
front
> end for my 1987 Cutlass.  I rearended a 1994 Buick Park Ave. last saturday
> night and took out the header panel, headlights, & grills.  So far the new
> parts estimate is around $1200.  I would like to find a complete nose rather
> than buy all of the parts piece by piece since my car is not covered by the
> insurance.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I know it's not in Pa, but I am pretty sure that Day's Auto Parts in
Nicholasville, Ky has this for you.  Not positive, but highly possible.
Phone number is 606 885-6081, ask for Jimmy if you are interested.  They
might be able to ship to you on a roadrunner transport, but I don't know
for sure.  Just thought I would let you know.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 01:53:29 EST
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....

In a message dated 98-11-30 14:30:38 EST, you write:

<< I recently read an article in one of the Car Mags that stated that the
 corporate GM 10 bolt 8.5" rear end is nearly as strong as a 12 bolt. It also
 stated that many racers are starting to rely on 8.5" 10 bolts because of the
 increasing scarcity/price of 12 bolts. Just my .02. >>
Sorry folks, the 8.5 10 bolt doesn't even compare to the 12 bolt chevy
carrier.  The 12 bolt is much beefier, and for superior strength, buy a Moroso
Brute Force carrier.  You can view it at www.moroso.com and go to rearends.
The problem with 10 bolts is that they do not have enough meat.  I have broken
two 10 bolts.  I just launched my 10 bolt Nov 1st at Milan,  I tore the
carrier in pieces no bigger than a half dollar.  Now I am finally putting in a
12 bolt Chevy rear end.  Only reason I didn't want to do that is because of my
W-27 rear end cover.  But Dick Miller just informed me that they are now
making a W-27 cover for 12 bolt chevys now. 

thats my .02
W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30 Race Rocket

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 03:15:43 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator output too high? 

14 volts is fine.  Most of my internally regulated cars put out 15 + at
idle.  Never a problem.
Regards,
Fred

- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, November 30, 1998 6:15 PM
Subject: Alternator output too high?


>While I was putting the new performer intake on the 66 Starfire, I hooked
up
>a new voltmeter to my old alternator.
>
>To my surprise the alt. is putting out about 14 volts at idle (~900 RPM).
>This seems high to me, perhaps high enough to cook a battery.
>
>I wired the voltmeter directly to the switched "Gen Light" wire so there
>would be no voltage loss due to resistance. This is an internally regulated
>alternator, so I figured it should be putting out something closer to 12
>volts, not 14, especially at idle.
>
>If it's bad, I'm not too surprised. It's old, a fairly generic rebuild, and
>has been used inconsistently through the years with a great deal of shelf
>time along the way.
>
>Should I replace it?
>
>Looking forward to your thoughts.
>
>TIA
>
>cf

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 03:04:02 -0700
From: "David Litke" <dlitke@bewellnet.com>
Subject: Noise and vibration on 72 Supreme

Hey all,
	You have all been so helpful in the past I had to ask one more time.  I
have been fighting with a noise and vibration on my 72 Supreme for quite a
while.  The key symptoms are that the noise and vibration both disapear
when turning right, but get a little worse when turning left.  The noise
and vibration can be felt and heard at 30 MPH and above but gets worse when
speed is increased and is especially bad between 50 and 73 MPH.  The noise
and vibration also disapear when going down the highway and the highway
dips and then peaks so that the body raises off the frame.  You can also
feel the vibration through the steering wheel and accelerator pedal more
than through the body of the car.  

As far as what I've done to solve the problem.  I replaced the center link
and idler arm because they were bad, that made a little difference in the
vibration, but not a lot.  I took the two tires off that were out of round
and replaced them. And I replaced the inner right front bearing.

Does it sound like the right rear bearing is going out and if so why would
there be such a bad vibration?  I have checked the U-joints and they seem
to be tight.  The exhaust is not hitting the body anywhere.  I am out of
ideas.  If the driveshaft is out of balance why does the problem disapear
when turning right?

Anyway  I am tired of replacing parts that aren't really bad and don't fix
the problem.  If anyone has some ideas or experiences that would be helpful
 it would be greatly appreciated.  I am only 23 and don't need to lose my
hair (from pulling it out) at such an early age.

Thanks in advance  David Litke  dlitke@bewellnet.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 07:25:55 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: Cost for paint/body-job?

In a message dated 12/1/98
 12:<BR04:<BR59 AM Central Standard Ti, PETTRIX@prodigy.net writes:> There was
very little bondo used to fill in some low spots. The other
>  dings/dents were filled in with a heavy coat of primer. The primer was then
>  sanded to flow evenly with the rest of the body line. One coat of this
>  primer equals to about 3 coats of the generic stuff. I will get you the
>  exact name at a later post, I just can't think of the name right now. 

Peter,

I'd like to know about it. Some kind of high-build stuff, I suppose.

Did it require a special nozzle to shoot it?

Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 07:29:05 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Cost for paint/body-job?

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0109_01BE1CFC.46AF9140
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

    When we finish I believe our toal should be about $2000.00 in parts =
alone. We have over 100 hours into the car and we are still not done. So =
I imagine a body shop may charge by the hour. With 100 hours at $25.00 =
per hour it would total $2500.00,=20

    Make that $68 per hour (here in Ct anyway).

    Paint jobs can cost anywhere from $199 at MACO to well over 5K for =
professional multicolor jobs. Color change is always more. Figger out =
what you want, then get quotes. But expect 2000 or so for a good job.

    drc


- ------=_NextPart_000_0109_01BE1CFC.46AF9140
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <P><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial size=3D2>When we finish I =
believe our toal=20
    should be about $2000.00 in parts alone. We have over 100 hours into =
the car=20
    and we are still not done. So I imagine a body shop may charge by =
the hour.=20
    With 100 hours at $25.00 per hour it would total $2500.00, =
</FONT></P>
    <P><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial size=3D2>Make that $68 per =
hour (here in Ct=20
    anyway).</FONT></P>
    <P><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial size=3D2></FONT><FONT =
color=3D#000000=20
    face=3DArial size=3D2>Paint jobs can cost anywhere from $199 at MACO =
to well=20
    over 5K for professional multicolor jobs. Color change is always=20
    </FONT><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial size=3D2>more. Figger out =
what you want,=20
    then get quotes. But expect 2000 or so for a good job.</FONT></P>
    <P><FONT color=3D#000000 =
size=3D2>drc</FONT></P></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0109_01BE1CFC.46AF9140--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 07:32:12 EST
From: MAY442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Cost for paint/body-job?

The primer is called fill and sand primer

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 07:33:55 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator output too high? 

- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, November 30, 1998 6:15 PM
Subject: Alternator output too high?


>While I was putting the new performer intake on the 66 Starfire, I hooked
up
>a new voltmeter to my old alternator.
>
>To my surprise the alt. is putting out about 14 volts at idle (~900 RPM).
>This seems high to me, perhaps high enough to cook a battery.


13.86 volts is the nominal terminal voltage for a 12V lead-acid battery
under charge at 70 degrees F. It does vary with temperature. It's more than
12V because you have to have higher voltage from the alternator to put
current ~into~ the battery.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 07:36:57 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....

At 01:53 AM 12/1/98 EST, you wrote:
>In a message dated 98-11-30 14:30:38 EST, you write:
>
><< I recently read an article in one of the Car Mags that stated that the
> corporate GM 10 bolt 8.5" rear end is nearly as strong as a 12 bolt. It also
> stated that many racers are starting to rely on 8.5" 10 bolts because of the
> increasing scarcity/price of 12 bolts. Just my .02. >>

- ---------------------------------------------------------------------
>(Sorry folks, the 8.5 10 bolt doesn't even compare to the 12 bolt chevy
>carrier.)  The 12 bolt is much beefier, and for superior strength, buy a
Moroso
>Brute Force carrier.  You can view it at www.moroso.com and go to rearends.
>The problem with 10 bolts is that they do not have enough meat.  I have
broken
>two 10 bolts.  I just launched my 10 bolt Nov 1st at Milan,  I tore the
>carrier in pieces no bigger than a half dollar.  Now I am finally putting
in a
>12 bolt Chevy rear end.  Only reason I didn't want to do that is because
of my
>W-27 rear end cover.  But Dick Miller just informed me that they are now
>making a W-27 cover for 12 bolt chevys now. 
>
>thats my .02
>W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
>72 442 W-30 Race Rocket
>
- -------------------------------------------------------------->

You took the words right out of my mouth W MACHINES. The guys that say the
10 bolt is just fine obviously aren't making enough torque to break one. Go
12 bolt 'C'.
I got mine.

Ed
The Omega Man

'74 Omega 455/4spd '12 bolt - 4:10'

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 07:47:37 EST
From: DUKEOFBLUZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: outrageous web site!!/'73 info wanted

are you guys talking about Harry Magers car?? he just bought a 73 cutlass "S"
455 4 speed, bench seat,, V engine code and KA heads
8900 miles
http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 07:52:29 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rearend ratios

In a message dated 12/1/98
 6:<BR38:<BR09 AM Central Standard Tim, ggilpin@wrallp.com writes:> You took
the words right out of my mouth W MACHINES. The guys that say the
>  10 bolt is just fine obviously aren't making enough torque to break one. Go
>  12 bolt 'C'.
>  I got mine.
>  
>  Ed  The Omega Man  '74 Omega 455/4spd '12 bolt - 4:10'

A month or so ago, there was an extensive thread about ratios for a 3600 lb,
455, TH400 equipped car to be used mostly on the road. I *do* drive fast, and
I don't race, so I want something that won't spin the 455 too fast during, say
75 mph, steady driving.

I didn't keep that thread and now I wish I had, as I'm going to be looking for
a rear end soon. Please help me remember.

The car will be aobut 3600 lbs, and be a daily driver to be used at high road
speeds, with occasional boat towing, say up to 1500 lbs. I'll probably be
looking at a 10-bolt BOP. I seem to remember that the recommended range was
from 3.5 to 3.9+ (:1). Does this sound correct?

Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 08:04:08 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Rear end

Andy
First of all, I like to keep my GM car ALL GM. But that's just me. If you
want to put a 9" Fix Or Replace Daily in your 88, it can be done...albiet
with some amount of fabrication. I'm not as knowlegeable with the big cars
as I've never had one, but I believe that a '65 to '72 Impala rear SHOULD
be a direct bolt in. 12 bolts were plentiful in the Impala and they are
cheaper than Nova/Camaro and Chevelle versions. Your not gonna break a 12
bolt any quicker than you'll break a 9". The Fords advantage is a
removeable carrier section which makes gear changes more convienent and
they don't use c-clips to hold in the axles. You'll have alot more $$ in
the 9" when your done and you'll have to hang your head when your GM
buddies ask ya what's under it. 
Hope my imput helps. 

Ed
The Omega Man

'74 packin' a rocket and a 12 bolt



- ----------------------------------------------------------




At 05:52 AM 12/1/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Ed -
>
>I read with interest the info you provided to the Olds list on rear
>ends.  I have a 71 delta 88 convertible that needs a rear end.  Do you
>know if any other GM rear ends are interchangeable?  What about Ford
>rear ends?  All the hi-po mags talk about Ford 9 inch this and Ford 9
>inch that .... Do you know if my Delta 88 use a Ford rear end?
>
>Thanks in advance for the advice.
>
>- Andy
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 08:15:09 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Rearend ratios

If your going to be doing alot of highway driving, I'd recomend a ratio
between 3:42 to 3:73. Anything steeper and you'll be hating life on the
highway. With the torque of the 455 the 3:42 should be the best all around
gear.

Ed
The Omega Man
2-'74s



>A month or so ago, there was an extensive thread about ratios for a 3600 lb,
>455, TH400 equipped car to be used mostly on the road. I *do* drive fast, and
>I don't race, so I want something that won't spin the 455 too fast during,
say
>75 mph, steady driving.
>
>I didn't keep that thread and now I wish I had, as I'm going to be looking
for
>a rear end soon. Please help me remember.
>
>The car will be aobut 3600 lbs, and be a daily driver to be used at high road
>speeds, with occasional boat towing, say up to 1500 lbs. I'll probably be
>looking at a 10-bolt BOP. I seem to remember that the recommended range was
>from 3.5 to 3.9+ (:1). Does this sound correct?
>
>Cheers/Carron
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 07:29:25 -0600
From: "Drusch, Wayne (Human Resources & Risk Mgmt)" 
<wayne_drusch@co.harris.tx.us>
Subject: Cruise Control

You have three areas to trouble shoot with a cruise control--Electrical,
mechanical linkage and vacuum. I would start with vacuum as those hoses
can come loose, especially if you have been working under the hood. It
is easy to trace hoses from stop light switch to control module under
hood and subsequent hoses to the vacuum source on engine and hose to
vacuum diaphragm. There may also be a vacuum reserve (usually a round
sphere shape with two hoses)in the circuit on some models. Check for
loose hose ends, cracks, etc. Also, check vacuum diaphragm at front of
motor for cracks as engine heat is hard on them. If okay, go on to other
areas. A shop manual will come in handy for electrical as it will list
procedures to check out switch and control module. 

E. Wayne Drusch

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 08:39:22 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Rearend ratios

I agree. I have a '75 Cutlass 455/T-400 with a 3.42:1 gear and it's about
perfect for street driven high performance. I believe it weighs around 3600.

- -----Original Message-----

>
>If your going to be doing alot of highway driving, I'd recomend a ratio
>between 3:42 to 3:73. Anything steeper and you'll be hating life on the
>highway. With the torque of the 455 the 3:42 should be the best all around
>gear.
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 08:54:28 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: DRL's

In a message dated 11/30/98 9:53:48 PM EST, acg_o@hotmail.com writes:

<< those lovely
 translucent amber bulbs are 1157NA (Natural Amber) >>
 
Are They still available? I haven't seen them.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 08:12:54 -0600
From: Stephen <stephen@gatorgraphics.com>
Subject: performance stuff

Well I just subscribed to the list about ten minutes ago. I am looking
for some performance headers that will fit a 73 omega. Actually any info
on any performance parts for the car would be very much appreciated. You
can reply offlist if you would like. stephen@gatorgraphics.com

Stephen

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 09:17:01 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Noise and vibration on 72 Supreme

David;
You said you changed 2 out of round tires. What were their locations? You
didn't mention the simplest of attempts, that being a complete 4 wheel high
speed balance. Since you had 2 out of round tires, Were they both Front,
Rear, or One each? I'm assuming their modern radials. What type of wear did
they exhibit. Since you stated it starts in the steering wheel than
progresses through the body, this indicates your focus should be the front
end.

1. Visually inspect for bent rim on Right front. (will detect during
balance, check left too). Or jack front up and fashion some kind of stand
with a pointer, (couple bricks with a screw driver laying on top will do)
Place the tip aprox. 1/8" from rim lip side and spin tire slowly. Does the
clearance between screw driver and rim change during rotation? While you
have tire off ground, grasp top and bottom and see if you can flex wheel
assembly by pulling and pushing the opposing locations in/out. Movement or
slop may indicate a worn Ball joints. Grasp tire front and rear. repeat
flexing. Slop, suspect some aspect of front steering link that you haven't
changed. Do you have a lot of steering wheel turn before car responds? Could
be warn steering box. If your getting slop in either test, also have a
second person watching the A-arm bushings to make sure bushing wear isn't
allowing a-arms to move relative to there mounts, see # 2.

2. Check all front suspension for bushing wear and/or deterioration. They
may seem stout enough at car rest yet be compressing as speed increases
throughing of steering geometry off. This will also effect odd tread wear.

3. If you have an even across the tread wear but yet the tread is scalloped,
Look at shocks. Remove and hand test. Should take reasonable pressure to
collapse, yet expand slowly when released. No sign of oil on exterior. Also
inspect Sway Bar and bushings if installed.

4. could be faulty breaking components. Out of round rotor or drum. Broken
return springs. (unsure of your car year).

5. You haven't mentioned any recent alignment but did mention changing
"some" link components. You may have the toe in/out incorrect. Does car go
straight on level straight road? Or does it drift right/left? This by self
wouldn't create vibration except with say warn a-arm bushings or ball joints
I believe.

Well that's a few suggestions. I'm sure others could add more... Good Luck.
G.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

ICQ# 5209322 = "CC-IROC-SS"
Personal ICQ Communication Center:
http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322

Custom Conversion Proto-type:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
Project Questions To:
mailto:cc-iroc-ss@CC-IROC-SS.com

The CC-IROC-SS Project Delphi Forum:
http://forums.delphi.com/m/main.asp?sigdir=CC_IROC_SS

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of David Litke
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 1998 5:04 AM
To: olds mailing list
Subject: Noise and vibration on 72 Supreme


Hey all,
	You have all been so helpful in the past I had to ask one more time.  I
have been fighting with a noise and vibration on my 72 Supreme for quite a
while.  The key symptoms are that the noise and vibration both disapear
when turning right, but get a little worse when turning left.  The noise
and vibration can be felt and heard at 30 MPH and above but gets worse when
speed is increased and is especially bad between 50 and 73 MPH.  The noise
and vibration also disapear when going down the highway and the highway
dips and then peaks so that the body raises off the frame.  You can also
feel the vibration through the steering wheel and accelerator pedal more
than through the body of the car.

As far as what I've done to solve the problem.  I replaced the center link
and idler arm because they were bad, that made a little difference in the
vibration, but not a lot.  I took the two tires off that were out of round
and replaced them. And I replaced the inner right front bearing.

Does it sound like the right rear bearing is going out and if so why would
there be such a bad vibration?  I have checked the U-joints and they seem
to be tight.  The exhaust is not hitting the body anywhere.  I am out of
ideas.  If the driveshaft is out of balance why does the problem disapear
when turning right?

Anyway  I am tired of replacing parts that aren't really bad and don't fix
the problem.  If anyone has some ideas or experiences that would be helpful
 it would be greatly appreciated.  I am only 23 and don't need to lose my
hair (from pulling it out) at such an early age.

Thanks in advance  David Litke  dlitke@bewellnet.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1635
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