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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1634


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, November 30 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1634



Heads-good or bad
1947 Olds Discision 
Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....
cruise control
Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....
Re: DRL's
Re: cruise control
Re: cruise control
Re: Cost for paint/body-job?
Re: Bondo:Friend or Foe?
Re: cruise control
Re: DRL's
Re: Cost for paint/body-job?
G-body steering wheel a '68 Cutlass? What about steering column?
Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....
Olds Rod Lengths???
Olds 350 and High RPM's
FS: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold
mini spool olds
Re: DRL's
Re: Olds 350 and High RPM's
Re: info on Rallye 350 qtr stickers
71 442 question (last call)
tail light trim
Re: Cost for paint/body-job?
RE: 71 442 question (last call)
RE: Cost for paint/body-job?
Re: Fw: 64 Olds Cutlass (V.I.N. Decoding)
Bucket Seat Brackets
Re: Cost for paint/body-job? -Reply
FW: This is my fathers Oldsmobile
Alternator output too high? 
Re: 71 442 question (last call)
Re: Alternator output too high?
Re: Cost for paint/body-job?
Re: Bucket Seat Brackets
Olds supplement in Jan 99 Automobile Mag & Carlisle
Re: Bucket Seat Brackets
Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: Olds 350 and High RPM's
Re: fast idle
Re: Alternator output too high? 
Re: Heads-good or bad (#6)
Re: outrageous web site!!/'73 info wanted
Re: DRL's
Power Bucket Installation on a '70 Cutlass.
RE: Power Bucket Installation on a '70 Cutlass.
Paint Stripes
Re: Alternator output too high?
Date:	Mon, 30 Nov 1998 20:05:16 -0500
SB Olds oil filters

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 13:07:41 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Heads-good or bad

I have a '74 350 rocket that has the #6 heads on it. Are these good heads
to use for a high performance small block?? I want to get around 325+ hp
and 380+ ft/lbs torque with this engine. Whats a good cam/intake/carb
choice for this app. What about exhaust manifolds. Did Olds make anything
other than the queer left manifold into right manifold design? Will these
things make any power? I want to hear from someone that has been down this
road and ended up with a strong working combination. This engine is for a
3400 lb Omega with TH350 auto and 3:73 gears.

Also, over the weekend I picked up a complete '72 455 rocket that has Ga
heads on it. Are these heads worth the trouble or should I be on the
lookout for C or F heads?

I'm still on the 12 step Chevy-to-Olds conversion process here guys, so
help me out. I know my Chevys. I'm still learning with the Olds.

One more question, are Olds engine mounts the same across all platforms?

Ed
The Omega Man

2 of 'em

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 13:02:48 -0500
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@pa.net>
Subject: 1947 Olds Discision 

First .... thanks to everyone who responded.
It was a big assist.

I'm going to have to sell the 77 Malibu to come up with
the cash ... I'll sell the Malibu for $2000. I'd rather have the 47 Olds.

A little research has convinced me to do a careful customize job,
leaving the car basically as a 47 Custom Cruiser. 8 cyl inline motor
does turn over freely and I will leave it in the car if it runs ....even if
I
have to rebuild.

Next step is to convince my wife I really do need one more car project.

Thanks to all.
Ken Swick
swickka@pa.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 13:22:29 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....

By the By, Ed,

Where are you located?

If you don't use the 455, are you going to sell it?

Cheeers/Don

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 13:29:36 EST
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: cruise control

On my 82 cutlass supreme my cruise control worked a couple of days ago then
when I went to use it again it doesnt work anymore Does anyone have any ideas
could it be that the switch is old and I need a new one any help would be
appriciated	TIA  Rich 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 13:30:44 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....

I'm in Baltimore, MD through the week and Bedford, PA on the ends.
And no, the 455 has a home.

Ed
Omega Man

- --------------------------------------------


At 01:22 PM 11/30/98 EST, you wrote:
>By the By, Ed,
>
>Where are you located?
>
>If you don't use the 455, are you going to sell it?
>
>Cheeers/Don
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 10:34:54 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: DRL's

>> Something you might want to check on is that in some states it is
>> actually illegal to drive around over a certain speed with your
>> parking lights on.

Illinois is (or maybe was) one such state. I remember the groan that
went up in Drivers' Ed when they mentioned this little fact.  :-)

> I don't know if this is true anymore.  On GMs with hidden 
> headlights (like the Vette and Firebird), the DRLs _do_ use the 
> parking lights instead of having the headlights pop up.

Well, strictly speaking they're using the turn signals, not the 
parking lights; you can see the difference when one of those cars 
signals a turn, and it temporarily starts blinking the light on one 
side while still burning steadily the one on the other. Some Buicks do 
this as well, and they don't even have hidden headlights.

Illinois' Rules of the Road says that forward-facing lights have to be
either white or amber, so these would qualify as DRLs. I guess they're
not "parking lights" since none of the other exterior lights are on at
the same time.

- -- Andy


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 13:47:15 -0500
From: "Robert Collins" <collins@peterboro.net>
Subject: Re: cruise control

Try checking the electrical connections under the hood.  Had an Chr*sler
5th Ave that the cruise quit working and the problem turned out to be
corroded connection under the hood

Robert Collins
collins@peterboro.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 12:43:44 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: cruise control

> On my 82 cutlass supreme my cruise control worked a couple of days ago then
> when I went to use it again it doesnt work anymore Does anyone have any ideas
> could it be that the switch is old and I need a new one any help would be
> appriciated	TIA  Rich 

Rich, 

have no experience on cruise control on olds but here is my op:

Before cheking for electrical problems take a look at the mechanics under 
the hood. Once had similar problems and it was simply the 
mechanic connection from control to the carb which was slipped out of 
its guide. 

Good Luck, George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

On Mon, 30 Nov 1998 RICH6986@aol.com wrote:

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 13:57:03 EST
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Cost for paint/body-job?

In a message dated 98-11-30 12:41:55 EST, you write:

>. Could you 
>guys tell me briefly what you had done for how much so I can get an idea 
>how much I may be looking at! Please include location.
>
>I appreciate your help a lot. Regards, George
>--------------------------------------------------------------
>'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
>http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html

i had both qrts. replaced with new panels, all dents removed and painted with
acrilic urathane base coat/clear coat,  they also splater painted the inside
of the trunk. and the ram air hood needed repair also.   cost was 1350$    im
in okla.   i didnt think that too bad.     steven,  w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 12:59:32 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: Bondo:Friend or Foe?

David,
    Was this 1/4 inch coat pretty even over most of the trunk or was it
for
a repair?  I ask this because when I stripped and painted my Delta I
found
what appeared to be factory 'Bondo' over the top portions of both
quarters.
I believe the 'Bondo' found on the trunk was factory as well.  You would
be
surprised how thick you can apply 'Bondo' particularly on horizontal
surfaces.

Jim Brady
- --

It is mostly vertical, near the bend in the trunk, about middle of the
vertical trunk panel.

- -- 
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 14:07:24 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: cruise control

In a message dated 11/30/98 1:32:25 PM EST, RICH6986@aol.com writes:

<< On my 82 cutlass supreme my cruise control worked a couple of days ago then
 when I went to use it again it doesnt work anymore Does anyone have any ideas
 could it be that the switch is old and I need a new one any help would be
 appriciated	TIA  Rich  >>

This happened to me once. I started probing the cruise unit with a volt meter
and voila, it worked! So, I think the answer is to try cleaning the contacts.
Good luck
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 14:09:08 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: DRL's

In a message dated 11/30/98 1:39:20 PM EST, acg_o@hotmail.com writes:

<<  I guess they're
 not "parking lights" since none of the other exterior lights are on at
 the same time. >>
 
except the rear.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 14:16:01 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Re: Cost for paint/body-job?

Hi George,

Good to hear things are progressing on the '68 S.

I paid $2300 for mine which included some Bondo and sanding on the rear,
sanding on the front quarters, repair small holes in floor pans, reassembly
of front end and bumpers and trim. 5 coats of black clear coat.

Clarksville, Tennessee.

I'm very happy with the results and effort put in by the body man. I'd
recommend him.



>
>I am planning to get my baby painted next year. It is pretty straigth but 
>will need some minor (bondo) body work. I know that paint and body work 
>varies a lot in cost due to different quality and procedures. Could you 
>guys tell me briefly what you had done for how much so I can get an idea 
>how much I may be looking at! Please include location.
>
>I appreciate your help a lot. Regards, George
>--------------------------------------------------------------
>'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
>http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
>--------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 14:19:30 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: G-body steering wheel a '68 Cutlass? What about steering column?

Does the larger hub look very strange? Would it stand out too badly?

Could the horn be made to work?

Another thought, how feasible would it be to swap my non-tilt steering
column for the tilt column in the G-body? Would things match up?

TIA again.

At 11:36 AM 11/30/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Saw a nice leather wrapped one on a '78ish Cutlass in a yard today. Just
>wondering if it would fit on my '68.
>_________
>
>Yes, but...
>
>GM steering columns got larger in diameter starting in 1969 due to the
>federally-mandated column lock.  As a result, all 69-up GM wheels are
>larger in diameter at the hub than 68-down.  The wheel _should_ fit the
>splines, but the hub will be larger than the column jacket.  I did this
>with a four-spoke Olds wheel on a 68 column.  Bolted on fine, but as I
>said, the hub was larger.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 14:28:01 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Engine mounts, rearends and much more....

I recently read an article in one of the Car Mags that stated that the
corporate GM 10 bolt 8.5" rear end is nearly as strong as a 12 bolt. It also
stated that many racers are starting to rely on 8.5" 10 bolts because of the
increasing scarcity/price of 12 bolts. Just my .02.

- -----Original Message-----


>The BOP 10 bolt is beefier than the Chevy 10 bolt.
>The 12 bolt Chevy is superior to all.
>
>To find a qustimate as to what year of frame is in that car. Look at the
>steerinb box location. If it sits beside the engine (steering linkage
>behind that big crossmember thing that sits under engine) it's '68 to '74.
>If it sits ahead of the engine (steering linkage in front of the
>crossmember thing) it's '75 up. I don't know exact measurements off the top
>of my head.
>Good luck with your find.
>
>Ed
>Omega Man
>
>
>--------------------------------
>
>
>At 11:57 AM 11/30/98 EST, you wrote:
>>In a message dated 11/30/98
>> 10:<BR51:<BR14 AM Central Standard T, ggilpin@wrallp.com writes:> A few
>>questions: What is the car in question here and what year is it?
>>>  Because a '61 Impala rear is way to wide for a compact X-body and they
are
>>>  coil sprung whereas x-bodys have leaf springs.
>>
>>Ed,
>>
>>The car is a 47 Olds, and I'm still trying to get enough info to identify
the
>>specific subframe. The car is still at a distance. I also don't know the
>>"factory" track dimension yet for a 47 Olds. Amazing how few libraries
stock
>>47 Chiltons :-)
>>
>><<Rear end differences: Buick/Olds/Pontiac all shared the same 10 bolt
rear
>>that differed from the Chevy 10 bolt. They are preferred due to a beefier
>>housing design. >>
>>
>>Which are preferred, BOPO or chevy? :-)
>>
>>
>>Lots of really good info there Ed. Thanks a million.
>>
>>Cheers/Carron
>>
>>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 11:43:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Dean Schreuder <das1472@yahoo.com>
Subject: Olds Rod Lengths???

Hey all, 
  I just want to know if any one out there knows some connecting rod
center to center lengths for Olds V8 motors? I've looked up many specs
on them, but I just can't seem to find a publication that gives these
numbers. Maybe I'm not looking in the right places??? But have there
been different lengths? Is there a different length for SB Olds's and
BB Olds's? I'm sure there is, with having different deck heights, but
I don't know??? By the way, I have a '79 Cutlass with a semi-built '73
Olds 350, and I LOVE IT!!!
                                Thanks,
                                 das1472@yahoo.com




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 13:42:21 -0600
From: <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Olds 350 and High RPM's

I have been wondering lately why the Olds 350 is still a poor candidate
for ultra-high RPM's. This motor has the shortest stroke of all the GM
small blocks, even shorter than the Cheby 350. It seems to me that this
motor should be a great candidate for an all out screamer. 

I know they only come in 2-bolt mains, but since Olds blocks are so much
stronger than Cheby's, what else could come into consideration in this
area?

Just wondering,

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme
.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 12:08:22 -0800
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: FS: Big Block Factory Iron Qjet Intake Manifold

I switched the intake manifold in my 66 Starfire to an Edelbrock performer
this weekend. So now I have a spare cast iron factory intake which I have no
use for. I hate to throw it away since it may be of use to one of you. 

The intake is in good shape. Typically dirty, but no cracks that I know of.
It worked just fine on the Starfire, I just wanted to try the Performer for
a change. 

It has the factory heat-driven choke coil (divorced choke, I think it's
called) on the manifold. It will fit either the early 425's or 455's and
will work with HEI or a points distributor. This is a spreadbore intake, so
you'll need an adaptor if you want it to work with a Holley squarebore. 

What am I bid? 

Shipping will be a cost issue since it weighs 40-50 pounds. If you're in the
SF Bay Area, I could potentially deliver it. 

Please respond privately to me from here.

cf

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 15:42:35 -0500
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: mini spool olds

Does anyone on the list know if there is a mini spool for the olds   68
O axle rear, or maybe you have one in your pile of priceless olds parts
. I dont know if they even made such a part for the olds 12 bolt cover
10 bolt gear.   thanks guys    Butch

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 16:07:19 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: DRL's

Well, strictly speaking they're using the turn signals, not the
parking lights;
________

Ah, yes, the _OTHER_ filament in the 1157A...   ;-)

Actually, are they still using 1157s or does GM use something else now
(like a 3157, or something like that)?  I hate it when the foundation of
your world gets shaken.  You could always count on a turn/parking bulb to
be an 1157, and you could always count on the firing order of a GM V8 to be
1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2 (not so the LS1).

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe!orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 16:10:39 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Olds 350 and High RPM's

I have been wondering lately why the Olds 350 is still a poor candidate
for ultra-high RPM's.
________

You are correct.  I recall a period magazine article on the W-31 in Hot Rod
where they asked exactly that question - they pointed out that the Olds 350
had the best bore/stroke ratio of all GM 350s.  I suspect it has something
to do with the less than optimum Olds exhaust port design.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 16:25:35 EST
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Re: info on Rallye 350 qtr stickers

Mark,
The Rallye350 rear quarter decals are available from the Paddock for $10 a
pair. The original decals if I'm not mistaken (a little help guys) were
rounded at one end, and the repros have all straight edges. At least that's
how mine were, and the they were NOS.
Hope This Helps,
Jim McKeague
70 Rallye 350
70 Cutlass S W-31

 Olds list,
 		Need to know if the ORIGINAL Rallye 350 rear quarter stickers 
were die
 cut??? Also, is there a demand for just the pair?
          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
                Mark Cornea (Dr. Decal)  OCA# 4903
                              1970 W30 (red)
 
                      <mailto:drdecal@wwnet.net>
                      <mailto:mcornea@ford.com>
 
                     Visit http://www.drdecal.com
         ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
 
  >>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 16:55:28 EST
From: OLDS44272@aol.com
Subject: 71 442 question (last call)

                   I looked at this car today.  The vin number is
336871m207209.   The body tag on the top off the fire wall is  ST  71-336 87
lan 42  4180. It has a 350cid motor ( i measured the width between the heads
it is 12 inches). The interior is decent except for the front bucket seats.
They'll need recovered. The seats are "ribbed", where the stitching is
horizantal . Non a/c car. Both door panels had an "S" emblem. The glove box
door had "cutlass" on it.    No front or rear sway bars, boxed rear trailing
arms,or bumper cut outs. The front head light bezels are all silver. The car
is in western PA. Pictures can be found at
http://members.aol.com/olds44272/home.html........Please let me know what you
think...............SCOTT     

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 16:57:34 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: tail light trim

Anyone have a clue where I could find the chrome tail light trim for my '74
Omega. I need 2 sets of it. Both are rust pitted beyond repair.

thanks

Ed
The Omega man
2 '74s

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 16:03:56 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Cost for paint/body-job?

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BE1C7B.087FC920
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I am painting my 72 442 convertible right now. My friend and I are doing
the work ourselves, so the following doesn't include labor. We stripped the
car down to bare metal and removed the trunk, hood, doors, fenders, front
window, bumpers,etc,etc,etc.. I am using primer to fill in all the
dents/dings and to get it arrow straight. We used about 4 gallons of primer
on the car. The car is now as straight as it will ever be. 
I am using DuPont ChromaBase Base/Clear coat paint. 1 Gallon goes for
$200.00. 1 gallon should be enough to cover all the areas of the car, even
on a convertible. As of now the cost is $1800.00 IN PARTS ALONE. This
includes stripper, primer, base, clear, tape, paper, sanding
discs,etc.etc...

When we finish I believe our toal should be about $2000.00 in parts alone.
We have over 100 hours into the car and we are still not done. So I imagine
a body shop may charge by the hour. With 100 hours at $25.00 per hour it
would total $2500.00, but the 100 hours into the car is with 2 people. So
then about $5000.00 for labor. Again, I don't know what shops charge per
hour and $25.00 may be too low. Also a body shop may not be as meticulous
as we are.

Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
> To: OldsML <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Cost for paint/body-job?
> Date: Monday, November 30, 1998 11:36 AM
> 
> 
> Hi Guys, 
> 
> back from the holidays... got the rear end done!
> 
> I am planning to get my baby painted next year. It is pretty straigth but

> will need some minor (bondo) body work. I know that paint and body work 
> varies a lot in cost due to different quality and procedures. Could you 
> guys tell me briefly what you had done for how much so I can get an idea 
> how much I may be looking at! Please include location.
> 
> I appreciate your help a lot. Regards, George
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> '68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
> http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
> --------------------------------------------------------------
- ------=_NextPart_000_01BE1C7B.087FC920
Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head></head><BODY bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF"><p><font size=3D2 =
color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Arial">I am painting my 72 442 convertible =
right now. My friend and I are doing the work ourselves, so the =
following doesn't include labor. We stripped the car down to bare metal =
and removed the trunk, hood, doors, fenders, front window, =
bumpers,etc,etc,etc.. I am using primer to fill in all the dents/dings =
and to get it arrow straight. We used about 4 gallons of primer on the =
car. The car is now as straight as it will ever be. <br>I am using =
DuPont ChromaBase Base/Clear coat paint. <b>1 Gallon goes for =
$200.00</b>. 1 gallon should be enough to cover all the areas of the =
car, even on a convertible. As of now the cost<b> is $1800.00 IN PARTS =
ALONE. </b>This includes stripper, primer, base, clear, tape, paper, =
sanding discs,etc.etc...<br><br>When we finish I believe our toal should =
be about $2000.00 in parts alone. We have over 100 hours into the car =
and we are still not done. So I imagine a body shop may charge by the =
hour. With 100 hours at $25.00 per hour it would total $2500.00, <b>but =
the 100 hours into the car is with 2 people. </b>So then about $5000.00 =
for labor. Again, I don't know what shops charge per hour and $25.00 may =
be too low. Also a body shop may not be as meticulous as we =
are.<br><br><font color=3D"#0000FF"><u>Pettrix@prodigy.net</u><font =
color=3D"#000000"><br><br>----------<br>&gt; From: George &lt;<font =
color=3D"#0000FF"><u>cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu</u><font =
color=3D"#000000">&gt;<br>&gt; To: OldsML &lt;<font =
color=3D"#0000FF"><u>oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</u><font =
color=3D"#000000">&gt;<br>&gt; Subject: Cost for paint/body-job?<br>&gt; =
Date: Monday, November 30, 1998 11:36 AM<br>&gt; <br>&gt; <br>&gt; Hi =
Guys, <br>&gt; <br>&gt; back from the holidays... got the rear end =
done!<br>&gt; <br>&gt; I am planning to get my baby painted next year. =
It is pretty straigth but <br>&gt; will need some minor (bondo) body =
work. I know that paint and body work <br>&gt; varies a lot in cost due =
to different quality and procedures. Could you <br>&gt; guys tell me =
briefly what you had done for how much so I can get an idea <br>&gt; how =
much I may be looking at! Please include location.<br>&gt; <br>&gt; I =
appreciate your help a lot. Regards, George<br>&gt; =
- --------------------------------------------------------------<br>&gt; =
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. <br>&gt; <font =
color=3D"#0000FF"><u>http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.h=
tml</u><font color=3D"#000000"><br>&gt; =
- --------------------------------------------------------------</p>
</font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></font></body></h=
tml>
- ------=_NextPart_000_01BE1C7B.087FC920--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 17:08:49 -0500
From: Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca
Subject: RE: 71 442 question (last call)

Scott,
	what you have found is a '71 Cutlass S/Supreme with very little 442
option parts. If you are content with spending $1500 on a driver Cutlass
then do so but do so knowing that it's a Cutlass and not a 442. The price is
not bad considering it drives and is in fair condition. 

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	OLDS44272@aol.com [SMTP:OLDS44272@aol.com]
> Sent:	Monday, November 30, 1998 4:55 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	71 442 question (last call)
> 
>                    I looked at this car today.  The vin number is
> 336871m207209.   The body tag on the top off the fire wall is  ST  71-336
> 87
> lan 42  4180. It has a 350cid motor ( i measured the width between the
> heads
> it is 12 inches). The interior is decent except for the front bucket
> seats.
> They'll need recovered. The seats are "ribbed", where the stitching is
> horizantal . Non a/c car. Both door panels had an "S" emblem. The glove
> box
> door had "cutlass" on it.    No front or rear sway bars, boxed rear
> trailing
> arms,or bumper cut outs. The front head light bezels are all silver. The
> car
> is in western PA. Pictures can be found at
> http://members.aol.com/olds44272/home.html........Please let me know what
> you
> think...............SCOTT     

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 17:12:34 -0500
From: Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca
Subject: RE: Cost for paint/body-job?

Peter, did I read this correctly, you are using PRIMER to fill in the dents?
Is this bondo-filler you mean to say? OR actually spray primer? If it's the
primer to spray on, how many coats will it take to fill in a small ding?

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Peter Landowski [SMTP:PETTRIX@prodigy.net]
> Sent:	Monday, November 30, 1998 5:04 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	Re: Cost for paint/body-job?
> 
> I am painting my 72 442 convertible right now. My friend and I are doing
> the work ourselves, so the following doesn't include labor. We stripped
> the car down to bare metal and removed the trunk, hood, doors, fenders,
> front window, bumpers,etc,etc,etc.. I am using primer to fill in all the
> dents/dings and to get it arrow straight. We used about 4 gallons of
> primer on the car. The car is now as straight as it will ever be. 
> I am using DuPont ChromaBase Base/Clear coat paint. 1 Gallon goes for
> $200.00. 1 gallon should be enough to cover all the areas of the car, even
> on a convertible. As of now the cost is $1800.00 IN PARTS ALONE. This
> includes stripper, primer, base, clear, tape, paper, sanding
> discs,etc.etc...
> 
> When we finish I believe our toal should be about $2000.00 in parts alone.
> We have over 100 hours into the car and we are still not done. So I
> imagine a body shop may charge by the hour. With 100 hours at $25.00 per
> hour it would total $2500.00, but the 100 hours into the car is with 2
> people. So then about $5000.00 for labor. Again, I don't know what shops
> charge per hour and $25.00 may be too low. Also a body shop may not be as
> meticulous as we are.
> 
> Pettrix@prodigy.net
> 
> ----------
> > From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
> > To: OldsML <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > Subject: Cost for paint/body-job?
> > Date: Monday, November 30, 1998 11:36 AM
> > 
> > 
> > Hi Guys, 
> > 
> > back from the holidays... got the rear end done!
> > 
> > I am planning to get my baby painted next year. It is pretty straigth
> but 
> > will need some minor (bondo) body work. I know that paint and body work 
> > varies a lot in cost due to different quality and procedures. Could you 
> > guys tell me briefly what you had done for how much so I can get an idea
> 
> > how much I may be looking at! Please include location.
> > 
> > I appreciate your help a lot. Regards, George
> > --------------------------------------------------------------
> > '68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
> > http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
> > --------------------------------------------------------------
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 15:33:15 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Fw: 64 Olds Cutlass (V.I.N. Decoding)

Hi Tim,
	Drew's VIN decoder at http://members.aol.com/drewinva/vin/ said:
	8=V8 engine
	2=F-85 Cutlass
	4=1964
	M=Lansing, MI
	08484=unique number

> Tim Wurtz wrote:
> 
> Sorry I forgot to include the V.I.N. # 824MO8484
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Tim Wurtz <tropical@micron.net>
> To: Oldsmobile Group <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Sunday, November 29, 1998 8:03 PM
> Subject: 64 Olds Cutlass (V.I.N. Decoding)
> 
> Hello Group,
> I have a Olds vin that i need decoded. This car is complete and probably will
> part it out. I need to find out all the info on this car first to decide what
> to do with it. If any one is interested in parts let me know. Thanks Tim

- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 17:34:30 EST
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Bucket Seat Brackets

I am ready to put the inside of my Rallye 350 back together, and I want to
know if it makes a difference if the bucket seat brackets can be bolted down
or welded. I have them bolted and they are pretty sturdy. Will this work? 
Thanks,
Jim McKeague

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 14:44:55 -0800
From: Roy Rutz <ROYR@cdpr.ca.gov>
Subject: Re: Cost for paint/body-job? -Reply

I just had my 67 cutlass supreme sports coupe/turnpike cruiser engine
and AT repainted original white.  I had trim off and most body work done
already.  There was still some minor alighment and such remaining.   I
had him replace all trim after painting.  I would have to look up just exactly
what he used but it is really nice!  It cost me $3600.   This is Northern
California between Sacramento and Lake Tahoe price.  I am estimating
another $2000 for the complete interiorand black vinyl top.  We just put
another $5000 into engine and mechanical work.  I had the car and the
restoration is a wedding present from my new wife;  and NO she's not
for sale! 
 Neither, before some wise guy asks which, the wife or the car.  

I had a 66 442 that I bought new and getting another Olds has been a
dream for some time.  I stilll remember that I paid $3250 out the door for
the new 66 442.   I got this 67 cutlass a couple of years ago but haven't
had the time to get moving on it. I call it my "stealth 442".

By the way, does anybody know of a good source for repro tail light and
also inboard backup light lenses for a 67 Cutlass? I need some.  This
chat room has been a great source of information.  Thanks to all.   

>>> "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net> 11/30/98 02:03pm >>>
I am painting my 72 442 convertible right now. My friend and I are doing
the work ourselves, so the following doesn't include labor. We stripped
the
car down to bare metal and removed the trunk, hood, doors, fenders,
front
window, bumpers,etc,etc,etc.. I am using primer to fill in all the
dents/dings and to get it arrow straight. We used about 4 gallons of
primer
on the car. The car is now as straight as it will ever be. 
I am using DuPont ChromaBase Base/Clear coat paint. 1 Gallon goes for
$200.00. 1 gallon should be enough to cover all the areas of the car,
even
on a convertible. As of now the cost is $1800.00 IN PARTS ALONE. This
includes stripper, primer, base, clear, tape, paper, sanding
discs,etc.etc...

When we finish I believe our toal should be about $2000.00 in parts
alone.
We have over 100 hours into the car and we are still not done. So I
imagine
a body shop may charge by the hour. With 100 hours at $25.00 per hour
it
would total $2500.00, but the 100 hours into the car is with 2 people. So
then about $5000.00 for labor. Again, I don't know what shops charge
per
hour and $25.00 may be too low. Also a body shop may not be as
meticulous
as we are.

Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
> To: OldsML <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Cost for paint/body-job?
> Date: Monday, November 30, 1998 11:36 AM
> 
> 
> Hi Guys, 
> 
> back from the holidays... got the rear end done!
> 
> I am planning to get my baby painted next year. It is pretty straigth but

> will need some minor (bondo) body work. I know that paint and body
work 
> varies a lot in cost due to different quality and procedures. Could you 
> guys tell me briefly what you had done for how much so I can get an
idea 
> how much I may be looking at! Please include location.
> 
> I appreciate your help a lot. Regards, George
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> '68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
> http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
> --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 17:59:25 -0500
From: Rick Acree <RA8147@co.richmond.ga.us>
Subject: FW: This is my fathers Oldsmobile

> -----Original Message-----
> I just subscribed to the list, so please forgive me if this topic has
> been covered or is too mundane. This past weekend, I bought my parents
> '84 Cutlass Ciera Wagon to use as a backup to my daily driver. Body
> and interior are in great shape, but the motor is just a few miles shy
> of throwing a rod (major knocking coming from under the hood). The air
> filer cover indicates a 3.0L V6 (carbureted) with front wheel drive
> auto.
> 
> I could rebuild the original motor, but, as a firm believer in the
> bigger hammer theory, I'm not willing to leave well enough alone. I
> will occaisionally use the car to tow my motorcycle to the mountains
> and was wondering what is the maximum displacement replacement engine
> I could fit under the hood, mate up to the bell housing, and minimize
> replacement of external components? Also what suspension enhancement
> parts are available for this rather "pedestrian" car?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 15:14:30 -0800
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: Alternator output too high? 

While I was putting the new performer intake on the 66 Starfire, I hooked up
a new voltmeter to my old alternator. 

To my surprise the alt. is putting out about 14 volts at idle (~900 RPM).
This seems high to me, perhaps high enough to cook a battery. 

I wired the voltmeter directly to the switched "Gen Light" wire so there
would be no voltage loss due to resistance. This is an internally regulated
alternator, so I figured it should be putting out something closer to 12
volts, not 14, especially at idle.

If it's bad, I'm not too surprised. It's old, a fairly generic rebuild, and
has been used inconsistently through the years with a great deal of shelf
time along the way. 

Should I replace it? 

Looking forward to your thoughts.

TIA 

cf

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 17:12:56 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: 71 442 question (last call)

Scott, 

well, personally I am a little disappointed whenever I see fake 442s 
cloned without any love for the detail. But: Make this thing a Cutlass S 
again and it will be a wonderful car!!!
Of course I would not spend money on the paint straight ahead if it does 
not need paint but I would get it back to the origial look with every 
detail you need to replace anyway. 

I would defenitely buy this car for 1500 bucks if it runs and is not too 
rusty. 

Good Luck, hope to hear from a purchase soon!!
George
- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 18:19:55 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator output too high?

14 volts is about right.

- -----Original Message-----

>
>While I was putting the new performer intake on the 66 Starfire, I hooked
up
>a new voltmeter to my old alternator.
>
>To my surprise the alt. is putting out about 14 volts at idle (~900 RPM).
>This seems high to me, perhaps high enough to cook a battery.
>
>I wired the voltmeter directly to the switched "Gen Light" wire so there
>would be no voltage loss due to resistance. This is an internally regulated
>alternator, so I figured it should be putting out something closer to 12
>volts, not 14, especially at idle.
>
>If it's bad, I'm not too surprised. It's old, a fairly generic rebuild, and
>has been used inconsistently through the years with a great deal of shelf
>time along the way.
>
>Should I replace it?
>
>Looking forward to your thoughts.
>
>TIA
>
>cf
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 17:23:02 -0600
From: "72Hurst" <72hurst@net-email.com>
Subject: Re: Cost for paint/body-job?

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I can attest to many hours of labor in doing a complete job. The body =
shop that did my 72 H/O figured about 150 hours with everything, wet =
sanding, polishing, removing and repairing fenders, doors, hood, trunk, =
radiator support. When all was said and done, the final cost ended up =
just under $8,000.00. A lot of money, but WOW what a job. Worth every =
penny!!

My $.02=20
John
   =20
   =20
    I am painting my 72 442 convertible right now. My friend and I are =
doing the work ourselves, so the following doesn't include labor. We =
stripped the car down to bare metal and removed the trunk, hood, doors, =
fenders, front window, bumpers,etc,etc,etc.. I am using primer to fill =
in all the dents/dings and to get it arrow straight. We used about 4 =
gallons of primer on the car. The car is now as straight as it will ever =
be.=20
    I am using DuPont ChromaBase Base/Clear coat paint. 1 Gallon goes =
for $200.00. 1 gallon should be enough to cover all the areas of the =
car, even on a convertible. As of now the cost is $1800.00 IN PARTS =
ALONE. This includes stripper, primer, base, clear, tape, paper, sanding =
discs,etc.etc...
   =20
    When we finish I believe our toal should be about $2000.00 in parts =
alone. We have over 100 hours into the car and we are still not done. So =
I imagine a body shop may charge by the hour. With 100 hours at $25.00 =
per hour it would total $2500.00, but the 100 hours into the car is with =
2 people. So then about $5000.00 for labor. Again, I don't know what =
shops charge per hour and $25.00 may be too low. Also a body shop may =
not be as meticulous as we are.
   =20
    Pettrix@prodigy.net
   =20
    ----------
    > From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
    > To: OldsML <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
    > Subject: Cost for paint/body-job?
    > Date: Monday, November 30, 1998 11:36 AM
    >=20
    >=20
    > Hi Guys,=20
    >=20
    > back from the holidays... got the rear end done!
    >=20
    > I am planning to get my baby painted next year. It is pretty =
straigth but=20
    > will need some minor (bondo) body work. I know that paint and body =
work=20
    > varies a lot in cost due to different quality and procedures. =
Could you=20
    > guys tell me briefly what you had done for how much so I can get =
an idea=20
    > how much I may be looking at! Please include location.
    >=20
    > I appreciate your help a lot. Regards, George
    > --------------------------------------------------------------
    > '68 Cuttlass S Conv.=20
    > http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
    > --------------------------------------------------------------


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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I can attest to many hours of labor =
in doing a=20
complete job. The body shop that did my 72 H/O figured about 150 hours =
with=20
everything, wet sanding, polishing, removing and repairing fenders, =
doors, hood,=20
trunk, radiator support. When all was said and done, the final cost =
ended up=20
just under $8,000.00. A lot of money, but WOW what a job. Worth every=20
penny!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>My $.02 </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>John</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">

    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><BR>&nbsp;</DIV></FONT>
    <P><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial size=3D2>I am painting my 72 =
442 convertible=20
    right now. My friend and I are doing the work ourselves, so the =
following=20
    doesn't include labor. We stripped the car down to bare metal and =
removed=20
    the trunk, hood, doors, fenders, front window, bumpers,etc,etc,etc.. =
I am=20
    using primer to fill in all the dents/dings and to get it arrow =
straight. We=20
    used about 4 gallons of primer on the car. The car is now as =
straight as it=20
    will ever be. <BR>I am using DuPont ChromaBase Base/Clear coat =
paint. <B>1=20
    Gallon goes for $200.00</B>. 1 gallon should be enough to cover all =
the=20
    areas of the car, even on a convertible. As of now the cost<B> is =
$1800.00=20
    IN PARTS ALONE. </B>This includes stripper, primer, base, clear, =
tape,=20
    paper, sanding discs,etc.etc...<BR><BR>When we finish I believe our =
toal=20
    should be about $2000.00 in parts alone. We have over 100 hours into =
the car=20
    and we are still not done. So I imagine a body shop may charge by =
the hour.=20
    With 100 hours at $25.00 per hour it would total $2500.00, <B>but =
the 100=20
    hours into the car is with 2 people. </B>So then about $5000.00 for =
labor.=20
    Again, I don't know what shops charge per hour and $25.00 may be too =
low.=20
    Also a body shop may not be as meticulous as we are.<BR><BR><FONT=20
    color=3D#0000ff><U>Pettrix@prodigy.net</U><FONT=20
    color=3D#000000><BR><BR>----------<BR>&gt; From: George &lt;<FONT=20
    color=3D#0000ff><U>cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu</U><FONT=20
    color=3D#000000>&gt;<BR>&gt; To: OldsML &lt;<FONT=20
    color=3D#0000ff><U>oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</U><FONT=20
    color=3D#000000>&gt;<BR>&gt; Subject: Cost for =
paint/body-job?<BR>&gt; Date:=20
    Monday, November 30, 1998 11:36 AM<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; Hi =
Guys,=20
    <BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; back from the holidays... got the rear end =
done!<BR>&gt;=20
    <BR>&gt; I am planning to get my baby painted next year. It is =
pretty=20
    straigth but <BR>&gt; will need some minor (bondo) body work. I know =
that=20
    paint and body work <BR>&gt; varies a lot in cost due to different =
quality=20
    and procedures. Could you <BR>&gt; guys tell me briefly what you had =
done=20
    for how much so I can get an idea <BR>&gt; how much I may be looking =
at!=20
    Please include location.<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; I appreciate your help a =
lot.=20
    Regards, George<BR>&gt;=20
    =
- --------------------------------------------------------------<BR>&gt; =
'68=20
    Cuttlass S Conv. <BR>&gt; <FONT=20
    =
color=3D#0000ff><U>http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.htm=
l</U><FONT=20
    color=3D#000000><BR>&gt;=20
    =
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 17:26:39 -0600
From: "72Hurst" <72hurst@net-email.com>
Subject: Re: Bucket Seat Brackets

On this same subject, when I go to reinstall my buckets on my 72, do the
brackets mount under or on top of the carpeting. They were mounted on top,
but I know that the carpet had been changed. According to an article in MCR,
a guy had said that all GM cars had the brackets mounted under the carpet.
Any Ideas??
John


>I am ready to put the inside of my Rallye 350 back together, and I want to
>know if it makes a difference if the bucket seat brackets can be bolted
down
>or welded. I have them bolted and they are pretty sturdy. Will this work?
>Thanks,
>Jim McKeague

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 18:28:29 EST
From: RAC5419@aol.com
Subject: Olds supplement in Jan 99 Automobile Mag & Carlisle

Just got my 1/99 Automobile Magazine which came with a special supplement and
Olds as the sponsor. It lists 5 destinations for the auto enthusiast including
Harrisburg. The Carlisle and Hershey swap meets are mentioned. They give a
Carlisle web site www.carpro.com which has a signup section for info on
events. Also the article mentions Antique Automobile Club of America's site at
www.aaca.com. Since Carlisle is often mentioned thought some of you may find
this interesting. 

The supplement has mostly pictures of new Olds', but there is a drawing in a
Automotive art section of a 72 H/O Pace car that's a real work of art!!!

Dick Compton
72 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 18:33:07 EST
From: Jon442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bucket Seat Brackets

In a message dated 11/30/98 5:29:19 PM Central Standard Time, 72hurst@net-
email.com writes:

<< On this same subject, when I go to reinstall my buckets on my 72, do the
 brackets mount under or on top of the carpeting.  >>

The brackets go under the carpet.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 17:31:08 -0600
From: Shang <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

The Paddock is selling Hurst/Olds Dual Gate shifters. Anyone seen these
or had any experiences? They are asking $499 - the unit looks nice in
the picture, even has the rocket on the upper right-hand corner.


Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 18:44:15 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds 350 and High RPM's

Stephen/List,

I can't say for sure about the reasons why the 350 isn't as well-suited to
higher RPM's, but it might be the rod length makes the combination tough to
keep in balance, and if you can't keep it balanced at high RPM's, you get to
see cubic dollars flying right out of it real quick!

Then again, what do you consider high RPM's?  In our circle track engines
(unrestricted) we have taken them to 6800 (per Dave Smith's recommendations)
with his main studs and support kit, along with a solid lifter cam, and TRW
W-31 replacement pistons.  The thing that hurt us (until we learned our lesson
and had Dave build us a good oil pan) was not having oil pressure due to a
faulty oil pan -- no baffles and pickup in the wrong place.  

The Olds is known for it's torque, and surprisingly I have been able to use
more engine setup information from the local F-word racers concerning which
rear end gear to use and what RPM to expect, and they don't rev their 351's
over 6800 (again, unrestricted).  The C-word engines usually would rev up to
7100 to 7200 in the same situation, but they would be a gear ratio higher than
we were, example: we ran a 5.43 to 1 rear gear where they would run a 5.67 to
1.  Now that we have to run the restricted engine rules, we don't expect to
rev the engine over 6300 with the same gear, and this might be too much gear,
we might try something around a 5.29 and look at around 6000 with good power
around 4000 to 4500, not sure about those numbers until we get the car
assembled and flog it out at the track, we'll have to do some camshaft changes
in order to get it right.  Some people are experimenting with a short-stroke
(C-word 327 and F-word 302) engine at higher RPM's since they choked us with
the 2-barrel carbs, seems they can fill a smaller cylinder better at higher
events per second than we can using a larger cylinder and suffering the
consequences of the restriction.  Makes me wish Olds had made some different
stroke small-blocks.............

In short: Olds doesn't need to rev high, does it's work better at lower RPM's.
I'd have to ask Dave Smith about his days with the diesel-block 350's he raced
in AHRA Pro-Stock to get you a better idea about high-revving 350's, I do know
these ran a lot higher RPM's but not for a real long amount of time.

Hope this didn't confuse too many out there, and sorry for the length.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 17:50:03 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: fast idle

Brian, Could be leaning out, that would cause a "ping"
Lou
- ----------
> From: BRIAN SHANKLE <cshankle@home.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: fast idle
> Date: Sunday, November 29, 1998 11:22 AM
> 
> I did notice the pinging in high gear under a load, and I use premium
> gas at all times.  Funny thing is, I never heard it until I got this
> carb in.  I will set the timing now, and see what happens.
> Brian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 17:45:52 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Alternator output too high? 

Chris, 

14 V is exactly what I think an alternator *has* to put out. You may be 
concerned because your car has a 12 volt system. Maybe there are some EEs 
on the list to explain this more closely. I just imagine that you 
actually want a higher voltage because you have some voltage decrease on 
the resist of the stuff (cables) between alt and battery or because of a 
resist-effect in the battery while charging?

George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

On Mon, 30 Nov 1998, Chris Fair wrote:

> While I was putting the new performer intake on the 66 Starfire, I hooked up
> a new voltmeter to my old alternator. 
> 
> To my surprise the alt. is putting out about 14 volts at idle (~900 RPM).
> This seems high to me, perhaps high enough to cook a battery. 
> 
> I wired the voltmeter directly to the switched "Gen Light" wire so there
> would be no voltage loss due to resistance. This is an internally regulated
> alternator, so I figured it should be putting out something closer to 12
> volts, not 14, especially at idle.
> 
> If it's bad, I'm not too surprised. It's old, a fairly generic rebuild, and
> has been used inconsistently through the years with a great deal of shelf
> time along the way. 
> 
> Should I replace it? 
> 
> Looking forward to your thoughts.
> 
> TIA 
> 
> cf
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 18:52:00 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Heads-good or bad (#6)

Ed,

#6's are pretty good heads, I use them on my race engines.  You might have to
have the intake valve seats re-cut to put in 2" intake valves since a lot of
these heads didn't have 2" intake valves in them - all the 1970 2-barrel 350's
I have are equipped with #6's but all have the smaller valves.  We mill the
deck surface down so we wind up with around 55cc combustion chambers, with a
thin head gasket and TRW W-31 replacement pistons we wind up around 11 to 1
which is our track's maximum compression ratio in our class.

Hope this helps, Take Care!
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 18:32:59 EST
From: W451973@aol.com
Subject: Re: outrageous web site!!/'73 info wanted

there was also a L-77 option wich is on the rare side. this has Ka heads,
special Q-jet, dual snorkal air cleaner, intake has PCV in it like the W-30
intakes. i have seen elsewhere someone stated the L-77 was only available with
the m-40 auto. this is incorrect. i know of two original 442s with 4-spd and V
engine code in the vin and both cars have everything metioned, including the
409691 cam, which was used in 71-72 w-30 autos.
dennis
w451973
73 HURSTOLDS  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 18:11:24 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: DRL's

To all who replied to my 86 S-10 help for blue book, Thanks, he made out
like a bandit, got 2300.00, and bought it back. Bought a new S-10 Friday,
if we unhook the resistor, will it kill the DRL's ALL the time, or will
they work when reg. headlights are turned on or stay dead all the time.
[parking brake trick does not work on 99 S- 10]. Would like all the lights
to be on when we want them to be on without running a add. switch, any
clues?
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net


- ----------
> From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: DRL's
> Date: Monday, November 30, 1998 10:25 AM
> 
> Something you might want to check on is that in some states it is
actually
> illegal to drive around over a certain speed with your parking lights on.
> _________
> 
> I don't know if this is true anymore.  On GMs with hidden headlights
(like
> the Vette and Firebird), the DRLs _do_ use the parking lights instead of
> having the headlights pop up.
> 
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
> 
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 69 442
> 70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 18:55:37 EST
From: Ralllye350@aol.com
Subject: Power Bucket Installation on a '70 Cutlass.

I'm thinking about putting in a drivers side power seat unit I got, and was
wondering how hard they are to put in? I don't really want to modify and of
the existing bucket seat brackets, so if it comes down to that than forget it.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 16:37:45 -0800
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Power Bucket Installation on a '70 Cutlass.

I've had a helluva a time trying to do this to my 66 Starfire since they
didn't come with 6 way buckets in 66. I'm not there yet. 

Looks like my best option is to install 90's camaro seat adjusters. Adapting
60's and 70's A,B and C body gear didn't work
at all. 

If it was an option on your car, then it should be pretty much bolt in,
assuming you can find the right parts. Only hangup might be
find a power source if you car wasn't equipped with power windows. In my
66's the power for the seats came from the relay which
powers the windows as well.

cheers,
cf

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ralllye350@aol.com [mailto:Ralllye350@aol.com]
> Sent: Monday, November 30, 1998 3:56 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Power Bucket Installation on a '70 Cutlass.
> 
> 
> I'm thinking about putting in a drivers side power seat unit 
> I got, and was
> wondering how hard they are to put in? I don't really want to 
> modify and of
> the existing bucket seat brackets, so if it comes down to 
> that than forget it.
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 18:52:20 -0600
From: "Paul Schulz" <wisdom@mwt.net>
Subject: Paint Stripes

Does anyone have a 1967 442 that you know has the factory paint stripes
still
visible?  I need to know the following:
	1.  Distance from top of fender to top of upper (wide) stripe.
	2.  Width of upper (wide) stripe.
	3.  Distance between upper and lower stripe.
 	4.  Width of lower (narrow) stripe.

Any help would be appreciated!  I am also looking for a working AM-FM radio
for this car.

Thanks,

Paul

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 20:01:29 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Alternator output too high?

In a message dated 11/30/98 3:24:12 PM Pacific Standard Time,
comid@jellico.com writes:

<< 14 volts is about right. >>

     Isn't it because you are "USING" voltage, and since some is "lost" it
needs to charge at a higher rate to keep the battery at 12 volts?   Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 20:05:16 -0500
From: "Steve C" <cutlass@citlink.net>
Subject: Date:	Mon, 30 Nov 1998 20:05:16 -0500

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 30 Nov 1998 20:08:34 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: SB Olds oil filters

     Have been looking lately for a higher capacity oil filter for the 403
than what is supposed to be stock (Fram #25 I believe) according to the Fram
book. The diesel ones that are called for are entirely different, (I believe a
3246 or something close to that) and visually, are less capacity, along with
the screw threads/mating surface etc., being different. I looked up for the GM
trucks with Olds diesels, and any other combo I could think of. I can't figure
out why GM would have used a SMALLER oil filter on a diesel, especially a
truck, where clearance shouldn't be a problem. 
     However, it looks like a Fram PF11 is the same where the gasket and
threads are, but about 1/3 longer. Are they actually interchangeable
therefore? The number stamped into the top of the filter (3a?) is the same on
both of them. Anyone have experience with this?    
                                                                              
Dorian

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1634
*********************************

