Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1691


oldsmobile-digest    Wednesday, December 30 1998    Volume 01 : Number 1691



SMW 403 Thoughts
Re: RearEnd Clarification
Re: Youngmobiles
Re: more MC leak
shop manuals (fwd)
Re: HP ratings between auto to 4sp.
hi
Re: hi
Re: shop manuals (fwd)
Re: body shop est.
Re: SMW 403 hunt  [WAS: diesel stroker and other possibilities [long] ]
Re: body shop est.
Date:	Tue, 29 Dec 1998 15:30:58
Re: SMW 403 hunt  [WAS: diesel stroker and other possibilities [long] ]
Re: SMW 403 hunt & Motor Homes
UNBOUNCE: Lots of Questions
Re: SMW 403 hunt & Motor Homes
Re: hello all
66 E block 
Re: RearEnd Clarification
Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to 0.050".
Re: Coating Aluminum
Interior Vinyl Spray
MEMPHIS RUN
Re: HP ratings between auto to 4sp.
Re: Bumpers, cams, and toys
Re: Bumpers, cams, and toys
Re: body shop est.
Weatherstrip
Re: 66 E block
Re: body shop est.
[none]
Re: Did it again
Re: Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to 0.050".
The Painting Fiasco
Re: Did it again
Re: Aluminum hoods and accesory
Re: Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to 0.050".
engine spec
Re: more MC leak
Re: engine spec
Re: engine spec
Re: Torque Converter Swap Backyard-Tech
Re: [Weatherstrip]
Re: Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to
RE: engine spec
RE: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468 Olds Hemi???)
Re: SMW 403 hunt  [WAS: diesel stroker and other possibilities [long] ]
Re: Interior Vinyl Spray
Re: SMW 403 Thoughts
Re: [Weatherstrip]
Re: [Re: [Weatherstrip]]
Re: [Weatherstrip]
Re: Did it again
Cars for Sale
Re: diesel stroker and other possibilities [long]

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 18:53:03 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: SMW 403 Thoughts

List,

Here's my ideas on the possible reasons behind the solid main web 403's and
why most (if not damn near all) were cast with the "windowed" main webs.

I think this was close to the time that the 350's were lightened up as well,
and these were built (windowed main webs) to study if they could stand up to
the use and abuse of real-world drivers.  Didn't most of the post-78 blocks
have windows in their main webs?  I know Dave Smith told me to look for pre-78
350 engine blocks as starting points for racing engines, and I've never had
the chance to tear into any 260's, 307's or post-78 350's.  I don't remember
any specific memos from Olds at the dealer my mom worked at, but I know fuel
economy was a big issue in '77, and downsizing of cars as well as lightening
parts was looming big at GM.  In 78, the Cutlass line was redesigned as a much
smaller car, the 88/98 lines were already smaller than before, and more
components were beginning to show up as lighter materials.  When Pontiac began
casting Olds cylinder heads they too were lighter than before, much to the
chagrin of the performance crowd.

I really think that the 403 was originally designed to replace the 455, and
practically before the first castings were done they decided to try to reduce
the weight of engine blocks so in return the car would weigh less, and
hopefully get better fuel mileage.  I'd sure like to find one of those SMW
403's and decipher the block codes to see if this idea pans out or not.

Heck, I may be full of.......well, you know what, but it's an idea I baked up.
Any others?

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 19:14:33 EST
From: CUTLASS442@aol.com
Subject: Re: RearEnd Clarification

steve,

the first thing you need to find out is whether you have a 10-bolt or 12-bolt
rear.

to find out what size it is just jack up the rear, remove the differential
cover, turn the wheels until you see the numbers on the side of the ring gear.
these numbers are the number of teeth on the pinion and the teeth on the ring.
just divide them and that will give you your present gear ratio.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 19:29:31 EST
From: CUTLASS442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Youngmobiles

lol

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 19:45:04 EST
From: CUTLASS442@aol.com
Subject: Re: more MC leak

bruce

its only a lame question if its not asked.

to bench bleed a master cylindar you need to:

1) get/make a bleeder kit. this consists of the two fittings for the outlets,
and 2 short pieces of rubber hose

2) install fittings into the fluid outlets

3) place rubber hoses on the fittings and place the other end into the fluid
resevoir  (spelled right?)

4) fill with fluid  

5) use a piece of metel dowel ( i use a screw driver even though i've been
told not to) and work the piston just like your brake pedal would. continue
this until there is not ait bubbles in the fluid

this is how i was tought to do it. is there an easier way anyone. the last
time i did it i left it on the car.

richard
cutlass442@aol.com
1967 "oldsmobuick" cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 21:11:22 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: shop manuals (fwd)

Got this lead from Doug Kitchener... if anyone wants to buy these, respond
to jsmith3010@aol.com

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Dear Club,

   I have a couple questions. I have 8 shop manuals. They are:
1950-51 Olds shop manual ($25.00), 1952 Olds shop manual ($25,00), 1955 Olds
Quick Reference Book Parts (chassis and body sections)($25.00), 1956 Olds shop
manual, 1957 Olds carburation supplement shop manual ($15.00), 1958 Olds shop
manual ($25.00), 1971 Olds Cutlass/442 chassis service manual($35.00), 1973
Olds Cutlass chassis service manual ($35.00). The problem is i don't know were
to sell these items. I was wondering if you hada post-it-board, or a way i
could get them to Olds owners. You have my E-Mail. A response would be
appreciated.

                            Sincerely,           
                              JSmith

jsmith3010@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 20:33:55 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: HP ratings between auto to 4sp.

In a message dated 12/29/98 2:30:16 PM Pacific Standard Time,
docbob@caninet.com writes:

<< My question was how much hp. does the different transmission eat up in hp. 
 Does a 4 speed take less to drive the a th350 and a th400.??  And what are
 the differences??
 
 Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
 Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454 >>

     The manual will have less HP loss than the automatics of that time. The
torque converter is a definate HP loser.  Perhaps, since these were production
vehicles, the cams that were used in the manual transmission, which has no
load on the motor at idle, were too "harsh" to use on a vehicle that was sort
of intended to be daily driven. Maybe the idle was just too lopey in drive at
idle? Anybody that has a manual trans grind cam in an automatic could probably
say.  All just my thoughts of course, Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 19:36:06 -0600
From: "Joseph Stevenson" <jsteven@btc-skynet.net>
Subject: hi

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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hello everyone, my name is joey. i had recently put my cutlass 442 in =
storage and the car i put on it got froze to the trunk, and there is =
part of the car cover stuck on the trunk, what can i do to get it off?  =
I also put on a cherry bomb on it to, and the cherry bomb is longer than =
the origional muffler and the tail pipe is like a half inch from the =
tire, should i do something or leave it alone?  Also how do you get rid =
of surface rust?

                     please help me thanks alot joey

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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>hello everyone, my name is joey. i =
had recently=20
put my cutlass 442 in storage and the car i put on it got froze to the =
trunk,=20
and there is part of the car cover stuck on the trunk, what can i do to =
get it=20
off?&nbsp; I also put on a cherry bomb on it to, and the cherry bomb is =
longer=20
than the origional muffler and the tail pipe is like a half inch from =
the tire,=20
should i do something or leave it alone?&nbsp; Also how do you get rid =
of=20
surface rust?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000=20
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
please help me thanks alot joey</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 19:38:19 -0600
From: "Joseph Stevenson" <jsteven@btc-skynet.net>
Subject: Re: hi

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01BE3362.C99EED40
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

hello everyone, my name is joey. i had recently put my cutlass 442 in =
storage and the car cover i put on it got froze to the trunk, and there =
is part of the car cover stuck on the trunk, what can i do to get it =
off?  I also put on a cherry bomb on it to, and the cherry bomb is =
longer than the origional muffler and the tail pipe is like a half inch =
from the tire, should i do something or leave it alone?  Also how do you =
get rid of surface rust?
      =20
                   thanks alot please help joey

    -----Original Message-----
    From: Joseph Stevenson <jsteven@btc-skynet.net>
    To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
    Cc: joe <jsteven@btc-skynet.net>
    Date: Tuesday, December 29, 1998 7:36 PM
    Subject: hi
   =20
   =20
    hello everyone, my name is joey. i had recently put my cutlass 442 =
in storage and the car i put on it got froze to the trunk, and there is =
part of the car cover stuck on the trunk, what can i do to get it off?  =
I also put on a cherry bomb on it to, and the cherry bomb is longer than =
the origional muffler and the tail pipe is like a half inch from the =
tire, should i do something or leave it alone?  Also how do you get rid =
of surface rust?
    =20
                         please help me thanks alot joey

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HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>hello everyone, my name is joey. i =
had recently=20
put my cutlass 442 in storage and the car cover i put on it got froze to =
the=20
trunk, and there is part of the car cover stuck on the trunk, what can i =
do to=20
get it off?&nbsp; I also put on a cherry bomb on it to, and the cherry =
bomb is=20
longer than the origional muffler and the tail pipe is like a half inch =
from the=20
tire, should i do something or leave it alone?&nbsp; Also how do you get =
rid of=20
surface rust?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 =
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
thanks alot please help joey</DIV></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>Joseph Stevenson &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:jsteven@btc-skynet.net">jsteven@btc-skynet.net</A>&gt;<BR>=
<B>To:=20
    </B><A =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>=20
    &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>&g=
t;<BR><B>Cc:=20
    </B>joe &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:jsteven@btc-skynet.net">jsteven@btc-skynet.net</A>&gt;<BR>=
<B>Date:=20
    </B>Tuesday, December 29, 1998 7:36 PM<BR><B>Subject:=20
    </B>hi<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>hello everyone, my name is joey. =
i had=20
    recently put my cutlass 442 in storage and the car i put on it got =
froze to=20
    the trunk, and there is part of the car cover stuck on the trunk, =
what can i=20
    do to get it off?&nbsp; I also put on a cherry bomb on it to, and =
the cherry=20
    bomb is longer than the origional muffler and the tail pipe is like =
a half=20
    inch from the tire, should i do something or leave it alone?&nbsp; =
Also how=20
    do you get rid of surface rust?</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000=20
    =
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
    please help me thanks alot =
joey</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_001C_01BE3362.C99EED40--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 20:45:19 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: shop manuals (fwd)

Sell them on EBAY auction if you can..i think its on aol though...you can get
good money there, Harry , New Jersey   73 Olds Cutlass S 455/4spd

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 20:38:20 -0600
From: bloom9@juno.com (C K)
Subject: Re: body shop est.

> Again I am not trying to be a jerk, I feel that a post claiming a 
>"perfect"
> paint job costing $300.00 is not only ridiculous but a blatant lie.

Boy, I think whoever wrote these harsh words should have sent them
private, if at all. Let's keep in mind there are some people on this list
that have some very high skills. In fact, I work with a guy who restores
Hot Rods who could easily do all the needed paint and body work on any of
 my cars for under $500, if he wasn't so busy on his stuff.    As Rodney
said,"can't we all just get along?" :-p 

Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass




___________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 21:48:58 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: SMW 403 hunt  [WAS: diesel stroker and other possibilities [long] 
]

In a message dated 12/29/1998 4:28:47 PM Eastern Standard Time,
DYeager535@aol.com writes:

<<  My guess was that if the SMW 403's went into anything, it
 would have been the High Performance marine usage, where I would expect much
 higher RPM's than in a car. That was my only guess as to where they would
have
 used them. Dorian
  >>


What about motor homes??  Weren't there a bunch of Olds powered motor homes
made??

Bill (the plot thickens) K

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 21:56:02 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: body shop est.

In a message dated 12/29/1998 6:26:49 PM Eastern Standard Time, GT5726@aol.com
writes:

<<   It IS possible to paint a car on a budget and get show quality results.
 You just have to spend the money and time on the aspects of painting that
give
 the results.  >>


Absolutely true....   using Dupont's Centari you could paint a car with a very
durable and good looking finish for around $500.00.....   not including body
work.  I included everything in my price, including polyester sprayable filler
(for blocking the car), Sealers, E-Coat primers to eliminate peeling on
factory panel E-Coats, Etc, Etc, Etc.  If you do not require all this, GREAT!
I wanted a "Show Quality" finish that would also be very unique and durable.  

Bill K

P.S.  Not to upset everyone, but just to make sure we are all on the same
page, Ford "Candy Apple Red" is not a true candy.  Don't use the prices quoted
to evaluate a true Candy paint job.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 15:30:58
From: <merchant-serv98@usa.net>
Subject: Date:	Tue, 29 Dec 1998 15:30:58

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 22:34:45 -0500
From: Uncle Pete <pteubel@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: SMW 403 hunt  [WAS: diesel stroker and other possibilities [long] 
]

At 09:48 PM 12/29/98 -0500, you wrote:

>What about motor homes??  Weren't there a bunch of Olds powered motor homes
>made??
>
>Bill (the plot thickens)

I believe the majority of motorhomes used Mopar 440 or Chevy 454.

- - Uncle Pete
'51 98
'82 98 (non-SMW 403)
'86 Ciera

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 23:43:50 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: SMW 403 hunt & Motor Homes

On Tue, 29 Dec 1998, Uncle Pete wrote:
> I believe the majority of motorhomes used Mopar 440 or Chevy 454.

Not GMC motorhomes! :)

The neat-looking GMC motorhomes of the mid-70s (weren't they called Palm
Beach or something?) used the Toro drivetrain, with a 455 thru '76 and
then a 403 till the end of production. Extremely cool design on those.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 23:45:43 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Lots of Questions

Not on the list, respond to jsteven@btc-skynet.net if you can assist.
Sounds like he could use some h*lp...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Joseph Stevenson" <jsteven@btc-skynet.net>
Subject: hi

hello everyone, my name is joey. i had recently put my cutlass 442 in =
storage and the car i put on it got froze to the trunk, and there is =
part of the car cover stuck on the trunk, what can i do to get it off?  =
I also put on a cherry bomb on it to, and the cherry bomb is longer than =
the origional muffler and the tail pipe is like a half inch from the =
tire, should i do something or leave it alone?  Also how do you get rid =
of surface rust?

                     please h*lp me thanks alot joey

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 22:55:37 -0500
From: Uncle Pete <pteubel@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: SMW 403 hunt & Motor Homes

At 11:43 PM 12/29/98 -0400, you wrote:
>On Tue, 29 Dec 1998, Uncle Pete wrote:
>> I believe the majority of motorhomes used Mopar 440 or Chevy 454.
>
>Not GMC motorhomes! :)
>
>The neat-looking GMC motorhomes of the mid-70s (weren't they called Palm
>Beach or something?) used the Toro drivetrain, with a 455 thru '76 and
>then a 403 till the end of production. Extremely cool design on those.

Ah yes.  But those were the exception.....and far ahead of their time.
Front wheel drive, self-leveling, etc.  A very sought-after motorhome still.

- - Uncle Pete
'51 98
'82 98
'86 Ciera

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 23:15:19 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@intrlink.com>
Subject: Re: hello all

jason shreve wrote:
> 
> What is a GT?  An Olds GT??????

It was basically an `88 Cutlass Supreme special edition (RWD) with a
stripe and ornamentation package.  It didn't get any special engine or
suspension mods.  Other than the cosmetics it was just a run of the mill
cutlass.  There weren't many made.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 22:11:33 -0600
From: Robert Barnhart <robert@train.missouri.org>
Subject: 66 E block 

Greetings,
I have been reading this digest for several months without adding to the
discussion. Here goes. I bought this "car"  a 66 442 when I was in high
school. Paid $325 to the second owner and drove it home. That was some
time ago "read decades". The car got retired after a long and much
enjoyed street racing career that included beating big block T A's "neat
trick" as well as all  local, state, and federal pursuit vehicles that
ever tried . Grew a brain, got married, had kids, got a divorce, you
know the American dream. Woke up one morning and decided that what I
needed was to be back in my black 66 so I  pulled the engine for my
mid-life crisis. TRW forged flat top 4.057 dia pistons, Childs and
Albert file fit plasma rings, Mondello prepped rods, .010 turned forged
crank, Moroso 8 quart pan, oil restrictors,  high volume oil pump with
Mondello springs with hardened shaft, Cloyes true roller timing chain,
Mondello jm-3-4 cam, new .921 dia lifters, (real neat trick, try to find
some) 1.71 Milodon stainless exhaust valves, Manley severe duty intakes,
Dave Smith roller rockers and custom pushrods, studs, and guides, Dave
smith studs and straps for those main bearings, Dave Smith crank
scraper, Heads ported, Torker intake, Hooker super comp ceramic coated
headers, Holly 800 cfm 4150, Block align honed, decked, and opened up
.007 for those forged pistons, Performance Distributor  hei curved for
my cam, rev limiter, new tac, oil, and temp gages, "Fast Hand" Eddie
Smith th-350 mondo tranny, junk-away did just that, now it resides with
the rest of the original parts that I have kept.

The truth of the matter is that when I set behind the wheel of my 442 I
get to go back in time, if for only a while, to a place that so few have
ever been. Good Lord what memories that car brings back for me and those
guys I beat on the street. There still around, there still gonna be
looking at my tail lights after I hit second.

Happy New Years,
Robert Barnhart
66-442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 23:21:17 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: RearEnd Clarification

Steve

        Your 72 should have the corporate 8.5" 10 Bolt rear with a 30 spline
pinion. Lots of gears available for this rear. They also will take a
considerable amount of abuse.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts
Virginia Beach, VA

At 04:39 PM 12/29/98 , you wrote:
>Hello all.  I've got a question about the rearend in my 72 Cutlass "S."  Since
>it is a 72 I know that it isn't the Type "O" axle.  My question is what is the
>size of the ring gear?  I want to put in new gears and I need to know what
>size I have to order.  Any info. is greatly appreciated!
>
>Steve 
>CutW29@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 22:43:11 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to 0.050".

Hi all,
	Olds lists duration at 0" but I would like to find out what their
duration's translate to at 0.050".  Is this possible?

	I am planning on getting a 214/224 @ 0.050" with 0.473/0.496 lift but
the shops says this is no enough.  They recommend 224/234 @ 0.050" with
0.496/0.520 lift.  I thought I would look through the FAQ and find out
what the auto 455 in '70 came with and compare these numbers to it but,
as you know, they are listed using a theoretical 0" lift.

	The stock cams that I would like to convert are:
	258/272   .435/.435  455 ex. Pol., Toro
	262/274   .440/.440  455 Toro ex. W-34
	286/287   .474/.472  455 4400 ST, AT OAI ex AC

	As always, any help would be appreciated.

- -- 
Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 23:58:44 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Coating Aluminum

uncoated and clean or use krylon "dry" clear (flat clear) a double coat
works well for alternators aluminum water pumps and intakes etc should work
on your rearend so to speak but you still need to maintain
it and keep it clean...KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: Steven Saraceno <steven@purplemonkey.com>
To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, December 29, 1998 3:05 PM
Subject: Coating Aluminum


Just had my W-27 bead blasted.  Looks fantastic.   Does anyone have any
advice on how to keep it looking this good?   Can I coat it with clear high
temp lacquer or something else.  What about the Intake, should I do the same
to that or just leave them uncoated and keep them clean?

Steven
70 W-30 convertible

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 00:18:05 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Interior Vinyl Spray

When you spray your interior parts a different color is it OK to use
lacquer? I am using the SEM product line and they claim to buy a product
they make called vinyl prep. Would not using lacquer be the same? Instead
of spending $$$ on a can of SEM cleaner.


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 01:27:25 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: MEMPHIS RUN

It appears I will be going from Lexington, Ky to Nashville,Tn to
Memphis, Tn early Thursday morning.  Anybody know of any good 69-72
Cutlass yards on the way down?  Anybody on the list live down that way? 
NEXT QUESTION-  Does anyone know of a source that would have a used
passenger front fender for a 1991 BMW 525 in the general area?  I know
this is an OLDS list, but a lot of us have different cars for different
uses and for different reasons (i.e., the price was right, etc, etc), so
I thought I would ask.  You never know.  For example, when I go to a
salvage yard I look at everything pretty much in case I, or someone I
know, need something next time that I didn't need this time.  Kind of
like storing datat for future access.   TIA for any constructive
commentary........

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 01:36:38 EST
From: GraphixRUs@aol.com
Subject: Re: HP ratings between auto to 4sp.

 I have never seen any hp figures  BUT :
  When Rog II  & I  were running our bracket car on the 1/8 mi. :
   With a 400TH  it ran   about 8.15 seconds.
   With a  350TH  it ran right at  7.9 secinds.  
   I   hope this helps,
   Roger Utter

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 01:42:29 EST
From: GraphixRUs@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bumpers, cams, and toys

Dave ,
My nephew , in Rochester  ny, knows of a 69  whole car I believe.
I will e-mail him tonite.
Roger Utter 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 01:44:41 EST
From: GraphixRUs@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bumpers, cams, and toys

Sorry all. 
Should have been private .
That is one of  the things this prednisone does. Disconnecs the  brain from
the rest of your body.
Roger

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 01:05:02 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: body shop est.

>     I think it is definately with-in reason to get a decent paint job ,
doing
> it yourself, for around $300 in materials( $300 in materials doesn't mean
> guns, compressors, paintbooth, or intangiables).  I have done several
paint
> jobs using Dupont and 3M supplies exclusively and NEVER have I spent over
> $1000 on supplies. NOT EVEN CLOSE!!!!!!!!! I last painted my wifes 66
Mustang
> (it is a Gold Medal winner), and the cost of paint is as follows...1 gl.
> Dupont Delstar Acrylic Enamel (Candy Apple Red...per data plate): $95, 1
gl.
> 8090S Dupont Enamel reducer(med. temp.): $45, Dupont Red Oxide
primer/sealer
> 1qt.: $45, 1 gl. Dupont laquear thinner ( for primer and cleanup) : $30,
> Dupont DXR80 Hardner/gloss retention additive: $40.
>  As you can read from my trip to the paint store to buy materials for our
> award winning Mustang, it is possible to buy the materials for way less
than
> you think. 
>   I think that you must either be VERY gulable, or else you work for a
paint
> shop and are trying to keep the illusion that the overpriced quotes are
> "normal". 
>    The reason that Earl Sheib can quote a paint job so cheap, is they
don't
> remove trim...they tape over it. They also do not strip paint off before
> painting...they scuff the old paint , primer the rusted areas, then
recoat.
>   As for "not washing the car for fear of paint falling off"...we washed
ours
> the very next day...AFTER DRIVING 150 MILES TO GET TO THE TOWN OF A
SHOW!!!!!
>    While,no, we didn't win best of show , or even first place, at that
show,
> we did get an honorable mention. After returning home, we proceded to
"block
> out" the paints minor orange peel, and do the three stage rub out thing
(where
> the real art is in painting...again very little cost, just lots of
labor). We
> have since then never entered a show without recieveing a "Gold Ribbon". 
>  
> 
>       This is not a slam on you, just a letter in defense of the guy you
were
> slamming!
> 
>       It IS possible to paint a car on a budget and get show quality
results.
> You just have to spend the money and time on the aspects of painting that
give
> the results. 
> Do you really think that in this "max profit/bottom line" world GM would
use
> the best paints in their factories...I doubt it! They use the cheapest
sh*t
> that'll cover the metal. 
> 
>    Collyn Eastham

Well let's see here....A few things we must clear up before a war breaks
out needlessly. I used base/clear coat on my car. If you travel to your
local DuPont paint store and ask them how much a gallon of DuPont
ChromaBase 93 Medium Quasar Blue (metallic) costs, they should quote you
around $200-$230 for a gallon. Now a gallon of ChromaBase mid temperature
reducer for the basecoat is $33.00. Next is a gallon of Chromaclear
(clearcoat) which is $69.00 and the activator for that is 65.00 for 2 pints
worth. A quart of white paint (hood stripes & body stripes) $40.00. A quart
of mid temp reducer for the white $22.00 So far the total is $444.00.

Now take the sanding discs, 3 gallons of primer, etching (used as rust
preventative on panels before spraying), body filler, sand paper(various
grits), masking paper(tape off areas not to be sprayed), tape, tack rags, 2
gallons of aircraft stripper (used to take the old paint off the car) about
3-4 gallons of lacquer thinner, new body seam filler and other misc. items
that I can't think of now that were needed. A total of $1000.00 in those
parts.  

So a total of $1444.00. Now add to the fact that another quart of blue was
needed because the gallon of base ran out and a quart of clear was needed
also. Add the reducers and activators for those and another $160.00 comes
into play for a total of $1604.00.

Now take into effect that the door $60 , trunk $15 , window $45
weatherstripping needs to be replaced for a total of $120.00. For a grand
total of $1724.00.

Take note that the car was stripped to bare metal, primer was put on and
then sanded down numerous times to get the body as straight as an arrow and
then painted. That $1724.00 total does not include stripe stencils and of
course LABOR. 

So I am not gullible, just giving a true to life breakdown of what the
costs were. Realize that different paints (metallic, pearls) cost more than
basic colors. I know and see numerous cars in the area that are entered
into shows, such as the Chevy Vettefest or World of Wheels. This is at the
McCormick Place here in Chicago and those paint jobs can cost anywhere from
$3000-$15,000 on those cars. It all depends what you want and are looking
for, a nice paint job or a show quality job. It costs alot of $$$ for a
show winner.  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 01:15:32 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Weatherstrip

Has anyone used Super Soft (manufactured by Metro) weatherstripping? How
does it hold-up to Soft Seal?

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 02:06:48 EST
From: GraphixRUs@aol.com
Subject: Re: 66 E block

If  all of that was not a dream  : where do you live ?  You found Heaven.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 02:14:40 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: body shop est.

Peter Landowski wrote:
> 
> I am curious, did you paint the whole car, or just a section? I am not
> trying to be mean but you claim that you painted a car for $300.00 and it
> came out "perfect". I find that hard to believe. Then again, what is your
> definition of "perfect". What type of paint did you use? I know good
> quality pant such as DuPont can cost $200.00 a gallon for the basecoat.

SNIPPING A BIT

> Again I am not trying to be a jerk, I feel that a post claiming a "perfect"
> paint job costing $300.00 is not only ridiculous but a blatant lie. Why not
> post a pic of the car on the net and maybe we can get a "general idea" of
> what "perfect" is.

If you want to see how cheaply a "perfect" repaint can be done, give the
job to somemone that doesn't have a lot of money and does have more time
or to someone that has other and better uses for the majority of the
available money.  They will get it done cheaper than some one with a
good deal of cash and very little time.  Somewhat like the management
axiom that if you want something done quickly give the project to
someone that already has more than they can do, because they will find a
way to get it done quicker than anyone.  

As for the amount of money that is minimally necessary to do a perfect
paint job, that varies so widely by people, projects, locality and
situation it is ridiculous to try and compare them on a medium as varied
as the 'net.  What I can get done here in Ky for $1,000 might cost
someone in New England $3,000.  Does that make it better or me a liar,
not necessarily.  Just different.  If your father/mother/brother/friend
works at paint store Y, do you think they will give the general public,
a better price than they would give a relative? (Generally speaking, of
course.)  I don't think so.  I know of a guy here in town that got his
paint free, because someone ordered it and then didn't like the color
and returned it to the paint shop because it wasn't the color
requested.  If the paint place can't sell it, it would make more sense
to use it for something rather than let it sit in the stockroom and take
up space.  Space is money for a retailer, so if his son/brother/etc
needed a gallon and it was sitting around, out the door it goes free or
close to it.  There are a lot of things I see posted on the various
lists I'm on that don't seem reasonable to me, but I hit the delete
button and move on for the most part.  But to call someone a blatant
liar is a bit testy at the very least.  As for why not post pictures of
the perfect paint job on the net, why would any reasonably sane person
do that after  being attacked like this?  For that matter, (and I have
the flame retardant suit on for this comment) I haven't seen a "perfect"
paint job yet in the 40 years or so I've been around rebuilt, repainted
or restored cars.  I've seen some awfully close, but if you look hard
enough and long enough you will find a flaw in it somewhere.  Ask any
one that has been in the business for a long period of time, and they
will tell you that.  If you are a perfectionist, you give your best
shots and try to get the perfect job, but there is always something
somewhere that could have been a little better.  

This whole deal reminds me of the quad 4 wars on the list a while back
that Greg finally got tired of and shut off from the administrative end.
Let's move on to other discussions than the "He/she is a liar/whatever".
I did find the discussion of the wide variances in refinishing cost
interesting for a while, but until you can compare quality of the work,
and all the rest of the variables it is for the most part akin to
dicussing apples and oranges as the same fruit.  And as for my grammar
and diction, I hope I haven't offended anyone there either.  But then
I'm not submitting it to an English professor for a grade anyway.  

Folks, it's a big world out there for ALL of us to enjoy.  I think it
would be nice if we could do that at least during the Christmas
season...........

To make a few people feel really good/bad, I can remember when my father
used to paint an entire car for $100-125 and was happy to get the work.
Of course that was back in the early 1960's when things were "cheaper"
and times were much simplier.  But then he was earning $1.50 or so per
hour at his regular job beside working on cars at night for a local
dealership to support our family.  

Don Sowers
No flaming intended, just a "let's get along" nudge
(Setting up the flame-retardant force shields, however, just in case)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 01:05:05 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: [none]

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 01:56:17 -0600 (CST)
From: Kimberly Ann Wandrey <kaw0006@jove.acs.unt.edu>
Subject: Re: Did it again

Hi Everyone!

I think Peter and Lou should run for Congress, or heck, even President!!
;) 
Olds related stuff: I hope you all got lots of cool parts/toys for your
Oldsmobabies. I have not gotten anything yet, but Dad may give me $$$
to get my seats recovered!!! :)  
I am going to look at the '64 F-85 on Friday to make sure
this is a dooable project, not a Titanic! ;) 

I hope you all had a very Merry Christmas and have a great New Year! Be
careful out there! 

Happy Holidays,
Kim & Junior ('72 Cutlass Supreme)
Dallas, Texas

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 01:29:25 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to 0.050".

>Hi all,
> Olds lists duration at 0" but I would like to find out what their
>duration's translate to at 0.050".  Is this possible?


I am sure that it is.  I think that you are talking about seat-to-seat
timing.

> I am planning on getting a 214/224 @ 0.050" with 0.473/0.496 lift but
>the shops says this is no enough.  They recommend 224/234 @ 0.050" with
>0.496/0.520 lift.  I thought I would look through the FAQ and find out
>what the auto 455 in '70 came with and compare these numbers to it but,
>as you know, they are listed using a theoretical 0" lift.


What do you want.  I am sure that the bigger cam would work great on the
strip and would pull hard to 5500 RPM BUT:
    For the bigger cam you need valvetrain upgrade (you may have this
already) due to high lift.  Also, it should make tons of power from 2500 on
but when will you use it.  If I remember corectly you don't want the lousy
idle or overcamed engine and this cam may give you more then you want.
Also, I don't really know how the bigger cam would act in a big 455.  Tom
said that with this cam the motor is getting faily healty and that idle will
be noticable.  I wish that cam swaps were really easy and inexpensinve then
I could try them all I wan't.

> The stock cams that I would like to convert are:
> 258/272   .435/.435  455 ex. Pol., Toro
> 262/274   .440/.440  455 Toro ex. W-34
> 286/287   .474/.472  455 4400 ST, AT OAI ex AC
>


I think that all but MAYBE with the exception of the last cam are smaller
cams then mine and I can tell you right away that they would not be a good
choice.  I know that your question is about and for the purpose of
comparison however I just think that either the CS1023, CS1024 (my cam) or
CS.... (the .520 lift cam) are a good set of choices.  I don't know about
the big .496/.520 lift cam but if you trust the shop then maybe they are
right.  See if those guys have Olds BB experience or are they drawing their
conclusion from the BB Chevy.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 03:31:47 EST
From: CCRR12@aol.com
Subject: The Painting Fiasco

	Good words from Don Sowers on this subject. Inspired me.

My first paint job on the 57 was in 1976. It costs a whopping $241, a
significant number to me at the time. An authentic baked enamel finish with
minor prep required.

This year I paid $4500 and I did the majority of the prep work, essentially
delivering a shell to the shop. No chrome, stainless trim, glass, rubber, no
nothing. I spent many hours in the shop helping in the process (hoping to
learn something).

I loved the results both times, and thought I had got my money's worth both
times. 
However, I had different expectations. A great paint job to a 20 year old
rookie, and a great paint job to a grumpy old fart are two different things. 

Categories of Painters:

1.	Amateurs		Will work cheap, great attitude, lot of 
pride in their work,
usually
					have mobile operations, No Warranty.

2.	Laborers		Drop your car off on Monday, pick up on 
Wednesday. Tends to
					change locations every six months. 
Never remembers a job.

3.	Craftsman		Professionally trained, two weeks to 
schedule, insurance savvy.
					Great parts replacer. Specializes in 
matching paints.

4.	Artist			Has to "like" your car to work on it. 
Six months to a year to get
					in, four months to get out. Will paint 
only with his brand of paint.
					Specializes in accepting money from 
grumpy old farts trying to 					make
their cars fit their imagination.

It's all relative. Enjoy your cars. 

Randy in Oklahoma
57 88 J2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 07:46:55 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Did it again

Thanks for the vote of confidence, but I don't think I could follow the
incumbent's act.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Kimberly Ann Wandrey <kaw0006@jove.acs.unt.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, December 30, 1998 2:57 AM
Subject: Re: Did it again


>Hi Everyone!
>
>I think Peter and Lou should run for Congress, or heck, even President!!
>;)
>Olds related stuff: I hope you all got lots of cool parts/toys for your
>Oldsmobabies. I have not gotten anything yet, but Dad may give me $$$
>to get my seats recovered!!! :)
>I am going to look at the '64 F-85 on Friday to make sure
>this is a dooable project, not a Titanic! ;)
>
>I hope you all had a very Merry Christmas and have a great New Year! Be
>careful out there!
>
>Happy Holidays,
>Kim & Junior ('72 Cutlass Supreme)
>Dallas, Texas
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 08:00:42 EST
From: CS81w350@aol.com
Subject: Re: Aluminum hoods and accesory

Everytime the subject of aluminum hoods for g-bodies comes up, I feel ripped
off.  I have a 1981 cutlass supreme that originally had a diesel and it
definitely has a steel hood.  Next time I get to the salvage yard I will
definitely be packing a magnet.

Matt Pokorny
cs81w350@aol.com
Ames, Iowa

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 08:14:12 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to 0.050".

The last cam you mention (474 lift) is the cam that is in my 73 Cutlass S
455/4spd.
This cam has a beautiful idle! Nice and lopey, very similar to the 68 Hurst
Olds.In this car the engine runs very strong, so I would say with more
compression and the 474 cam, you would have a real torque monster with gobs of
horsepower and an idle that people could hear...Harry Mager  NJ    73 Olds
Cutlass 455/4spd  8,900 orig miles, also have a 67 W30, the idle in my 73
sounds very similar to my 67 too. To see more of my car go to  
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">1973 Olds Cutlass 455
4speed</A>  for more specs.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 08:30:48 EST
From: MGeltz31@aol.com
Subject: engine spec

Question,

I have a 1970 cutlass supreme conv. With buckets and automatic. The vin
indicates that it was built in California. I am reasonably sure the car is
original. The problem is that the engine is a 350 2bbl and most of the
literature says it should have a 4bbl. Can someone confirm or deny if the 350
2bbl cam in the car?

My first post

milton k geltz
mgeltz31 @aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 08:52:36 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: more MC leak

Fred,
Thanks for the step by step. I'll try it this weekend.
Bruce

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 09:04:07 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: engine spec

Milton

        Everything sound right. Yes the Supreme should have had the 4 bbl carb,
but there was a no cost option to have the L-65 2 bbl 350 installed in a
Superme. Seen lots of them with this. Why, I have no clue why someone would do
this. It seems like a step back.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts


At 08:30 AM 12/30/98 , you wrote:
>Question,
>
>I have a 1970 cutlass supreme conv. With buckets and automatic. The vin
>indicates that it was built in California. I am reasonably sure the car is
>original. The problem is that the engine is a 350 2bbl and most of the
>literature says it should have a 4bbl. Can someone confirm or deny if the 350
>2bbl cam in the car?
>
>My first post
>
>milton k geltz
>mgeltz31 @aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 06:11:11 -0800 (PST)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: engine spec

  My 1970 Cutlass 'S' came stock with a 2bbl, so it's possible that
your supreme did too.  Check the numbers on the intake manifold and
the engine block and see if they match.  If they do, it's correct. 
Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

Stefan
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
sgadecki@yahoo.com

- ---MGeltz31@aol.com wrote:
<SNIP>
>I have a 1970 cutlass supreme conv. With buckets and automatic. The vin
> indicates that it was built in California. I am reasonably sure the
car is
> original. The problem is that the engine is a 350 2bbl and most of the
> literature says it should have a 4bbl. Can someone confirm or
deny<SNIP>
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 06:22:52 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Torque Converter Swap Backyard-Tech

This is not an accurate way to check the stall, is it?  Every book I 
have read says it is not.



I can keep my
>foot as hard as possible on the floor, the highest I have been able to 
bring
>it up to is 2200 and them the tires go up in smoke.  


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: 30 Dec 98 07:01:41 PST
From: Bruce Suess <restoman@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Weatherstrip]

oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:
Has anyone used Super Soft (manufactured by Metro) weatherstripping? How
does it hold-up to Soft Seal?

Pettrix@prodigy.net

I have had metro stuff turn into dust still in plastic
sitting in the trunk.Softseal is best i have seen.{used}
Still not as good as OEM. My.02c 

RESTOMAN

____________________________________________________________________
More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://home.netscape.com/netcenter/mail

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 10:10:03 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to

The bigger cam spec he refered to, is not really that big (for a 455).
According to Lunati, this cam has a decent idle with a very slight lope and
draws good vacuum.

- -----Original Message-----

>
>>I am planning on getting a 214/224 @ 0.050" with 0.473/0.496 lift but
>>the shops says this is no enough.  They recommend 224/234 @ 0.050" with
>>0.496/0.520 lift.

>What do you want.  I am sure that the bigger cam would work great on the
>strip and would pull hard to 5500 RPM BUT:
>    For the bigger cam you need valvetrain upgrade (you may have this
>already) due to high lift.  Also, it should make tons of power from 2500 on
>but when will you use it.  If I remember corectly you don't want the lousy
>idle or overcamed engine and this cam may give you more then you want.
>Also, I don't really know how the bigger cam would act in a big 455.  Tom
>said that with this cam the motor is getting faily healty and that idle
will
>be noticable.  I wish that cam swaps were really easy and inexpensinve then
>I could try them all I wan't.
>
>> The stock cams that I would like to convert are:
>> 258/272   .435/.435  455 ex. Pol., Toro
>> 262/274   .440/.440  455 Toro ex. W-34
>> 286/287   .474/.472  455 4400 ST, AT OAI ex AC
>>
>
>
>I think that all but MAYBE with the exception of the last cam are smaller
>cams then mine and I can tell you right away that they would not be a good
>choice.  I know that your question is about and for the purpose of
>comparison however I just think that either the CS1023, CS1024 (my cam) or
>CS.... (the .520 lift cam) are a good set of choices.  I don't know about
>the big .496/.520 lift cam but if you trust the shop then maybe they are
>right.  See if those guys have Olds BB experience or are they drawing their
>conclusion from the BB Chevy.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 09:16:48 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: engine spec

>   My 1970 Cutlass 'S' came stock with a 2bbl, so it's possible that
> your supreme did too.  Check the numbers on the intake manifold and
> the engine block and see if they match.  If they do, it's correct. 
> Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.
> 
> 
I'm confused.  What numbers would you check on the intake manifold?  Are you
talking the date codes to see if they correspond.  Just curious, or maybe I
just read the post wrong.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 09:19:57 -0600
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468 Olds Hemi???)

Anyone find a way to adapt the Quad 4 head to a 350 Rocket?  

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 10:39:07 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: SMW 403 hunt  [WAS: diesel stroker and other possibilities [long] 
]

In a message dated 12/29/1998 10:37:42 PM Eastern Standard Time,
pteubel@mediaone.net writes:

<< I believe the majority of motorhomes used Mopar 440 or Chevy 454.
  >>


But they were a bunch of motor homes with Olds motors...   I think they used a
Toronado driveline.

Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 10:43:44 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: Interior Vinyl Spray

In a message dated 12/30/1998 1:09:47 AM Eastern Standard Time,
PETTRIX@prodigy.net writes:

<<  Would not using lacquer be the same? Instead
 of spending $$$ on a can of SEM cleaner.
  >>

It is probably better to stick with all the recomended procedures for a given
product, epecially if you are not familure with the peoduct.


My .02!
Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 10:04:39 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: SMW 403 Thoughts

Ken, list,....
 
>
>Heck, I may be full of.......well, you know what, but it's an idea I baked up.
>Any others?
>
>Take Care,
>Ken Snyder

Chris Witt used to offer a reward for anyone who could come up with proof of 
the existence of a solid main web 403. I don't know if he still offers the 
reward, but I know he never had to pay.

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 10:50:04 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Weatherstrip]

In a message dated 12/30/1998 10:03:40 AM Eastern Standard Time,
restoman@netscape.net writes:

<< I have had metro stuff turn into dust still in plastic sitting in the
trunk.Softseal is best i have seen.{used} Still not as good as OEM. My.02c  >>

Damn, Damn, Damn, Damn!   I was hoping to use metro because Soft Seal should
really be called concrete seal!  That stuff is as hard as rocks, maybe harder!
Please tell me someone else out there has had better luck with metro!   

Bill (really doesn't want to use Rock Seal) K

------------------------------

Date: 30 Dec 98 11:16:09 PST
From: Bruce Suess <restoman@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: [Weatherstrip]]

oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:
In a message dated 12/30/1998 10:03:40 AM Eastern Standard Time,
restoman@netscape.net writes:

<< I have had metro stuff turn into dust still in plastic sitting in the
trunk.Softseal is best i have seen.{used} Still not as good as OEM. My.02c  >>

Damn, Damn, Damn, Damn!   I was hoping to use metro because Soft Seal should
really be called concrete seal!  That stuff is as hard as rocks, maybe harder!
Please tell me someone else out there has had better luck with metro!   

Bill (really doesn't want to use Rock Seal) K



>It is stiff but will compress in time for a real
good long lasting seal.Don't want to replace em 
every year right?

RESTOMAN

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 12:39:41 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: [Weatherstrip]

I wouldn't use SoffSeal roof weatherstrip. It is very firm and the windows
will not seal correctly for a very long time, and you might have trouble
closing the door. There is another brand out there (may be Metro, may be
somebody else's) that is better. I think Specialty Olds carries it. Jim
Chermack gave the maker's name here a while back. Paging Mr. Chermack...

BTW, I used a few Metro items on my Buick and they were fine.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 11:49:47 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@intrlink.com>
Subject: Re: Did it again

Kimberly Ann Wandrey wrote:
> 
> Hi Everyone!
> 
> I think Peter and Lou should run for Congress, or heck, even President!!
> ;)
> Olds related stuff: I hope you all got lots of cool parts/toys for your
> Oldsmobabies. I have not gotten anything yet, but Dad may give me $$$
> to get my seats recovered!!! :)
> I am going to look at the '64 F-85 on Friday to make sure
> this is a dooable project, not a Titanic! ;)

Heh Heh. Reminds me of my `67.  When I first drug it home it looked like
something that had been recovered from the ocean floor. :)  Kinda still
does I guess.....

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 11:50:55 EST
From: Lou0118@aol.com
Subject: Cars for Sale

I found 2 cars in the local Auto Shopper magazine I picked up at the
supermarket today.  The cars are in Central New Jersey.

1972 Cutlass S
350 engine
Auto trans
PS, PB, Must Sell
$2900
Call after 5:00
732-566-0941
(It looks nice in the picture)


1987 Calais
Rebuilt Motor
New tires, struts, shocks
Exc transportation
$3800 or B/O
Ask for Joe
732-254-7939
(Looks like it has one of those fake conv tops)

If anybody wants I could call and find out some more info.

Let me know in private email.

Lou Principe
69 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 08:51:45 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: diesel stroker and other possibilities [long]

I am confused I guess.  How can you tell which type you have.  What does 
the internals look like.  Which is better.


><< Don't forget how ever, all 403's are not windowed.  I have been told 
that
>most
> T/A's with a 403 have solid webbed blocks.
> 
> See Ya!
> Bill K >>
>
>      My '77 block has the same casting number as used in the 
T/A's...windowed
>webs...I was disappointed, I wanted to be the proof that they existed : 
(
>Dorian
>


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------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1691
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