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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1645


oldsmobile-digest      Sunday, December 6 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1645



Re: Timing Chain
Something right...
(no subject)
Maroon 66 Full Size steering wheel and '66 Full size fenders
Partss
Response to Idle Problems :::> Long
build sheet
1967 Cutlass convertible FS-no rust and it's cheap
67 Cutlass convertible FS-no rust and it's cheap
Re: build sheet
Intake?
Re: Response to Idle Problems :::> Long
Ram Air hoods-ASC&P
SS Flex Tubing
71 442 F\S
Re: Response to Idle Problems :::> Long
Re: Lightning Rod Shifter
RE: Lightning Rod Shifter
Re: Lightning Rod Shifter
Re: Response to Idle Problems :::> Long
Re: For Sale: 3 H/Os and extra parts $7500
Eastwood Vinyl Paint
Eastwood Vinyl Paint
Re: SS Flex Tubing
Re: FS:  '57-'67 Olds Parts
Re: ?Restoration?
Re: Timing Chain
Build sheet
Re: For Sale: 3 H/Os and extra parts $7500
Re: Build sheet
1969 Toronado
The J-2 intake was: Intake?
Re: HEI Conversion Completed
Re: Rings in oil pan how serious?
Re: 71 Hood Hinges/Springs
Re: HEI Conversion Completed
Re: Eastwood Vinyl Paint
Re: Rings in oil pan how serious?
Re: The J-2 intake was: Intake?
Engine Block Bolts
68 442
Re: HEI Conversion Completed
list
Re: Engine Block Bolts
Re: list
Re: 1984 Hurst F/S in KY
PDL wiring & cam selection
68 H/O questions
Re: 71 Hood Hinges/Springs
Re: 68 H/O questions
Date:	Sun, 6 Dec 1998 13:33:27 -0500
Re: Eastwood Vinyl Paint
Re: Eastwood Vinyl Paint; interior colors

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 18:27:02 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Timing Chain

Gear drives are your best bet for rock solid cam timing and durability.  The
only problem with them is that they are noisy.  Some gear drives are very
loud but I have seen some that were fairly quiet.  Another option is a belt
drive which is popular with the ch*vy guys since they can play with cam
timing without opening up the motor.  Ones like the Jesel setup seal off the
area the timing chain rides in from oil so the belt sits mostly exposed in
the
front of the motor.  I know F*rd offered a setup that was designed to run in
oil and you used all the other stock pieces.  Highly doubt if anybody offers
a belt setup for an Olds but they may.  Main advantage over a gear drive
is that gear drives tend to transfer a lot of harmonic vibrations to the
cam.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>As long as we're on the subject, dos anyone have anything to say about
timing
>gears vs timing chains.  I've been looking at the parts available, and it
>looks like gear set would be more desirable, is there any durability
problems
>associated with them?
>
>DrkSole
>73 Cutlass Supreme
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 20:02:56 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Something right...

To all...
    Well I just couldn't stand it any more, I had to brake out the '69
today, because I just couldn't resist this warm weather any longer...
Well, seeing as I had put her to bed nearly two months ago, I got that
same giddy kind of feeling that is usually reserved for when I get her
out of the barn in the spring - Ah - pure bliss!  I must say, as usual,
I kind of forgot just how sweet the duals on this car sound and just how
much grunt this car's really got.
    Well I'm not sure if what I'm about to relate happened because the
weather is so nice or because it's getting close to Christmas or what...
but I thought it was pretty cool none the less.
    Driving around today, I took a short cut down a little back alley on
my way to the bank.  It's been over cast all day here, so the rain from
last night never really burned off on the side streets - just kind of
damp out...  Well the alley took dumped me out at main street, where at
4:00 there is a healthy amount of traffic.  I was making a right onto
Main so I simply focused on cars coming from the left.   I kept biding
my time just waiting for a little opening in the flow (it's only 35 mph
through there).  After sitting there a couple of minutes, I saw my
chance, and gave the '69 a little squeeze.  Weeeeellllll.....  the
Kelley's just weren't up to the task - a throttle blip later I was in
the process of correcting a nice little power turn onto Main - with
tires just a howling!!! (honest officer it was only half throttle...
grin!)  My smile was abruptly removed when I looked up to see the cop
that had been sitting on the side of the street watching my antics (he
wasn't even a half a block away - DOH!)  I immediately started to fear
the worst....  but as I came up on him and looked over - he was SMILING
AND CLAPPING!  I couldn't believe it!  I had thought I was had!  After I
got home I still couldn't believe it, but thought that I just had to
relay my good fortune to the list...
Hope everyone's weekend is going as good as mine...
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a 'glide :-(
'75 Supreme - project car....
'82 Supreme - SB, 700R4, 3.73's - Grin!
'86 Supreme - V-8 - daily driver... highway gears...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 20:06:14 EST
From: CarJackTX@aol.com
Subject: (no subject)

subscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 21:08:50 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Maroon 66 Full Size steering wheel and '66 Full size fenders

Hi all,

    Someone was looking for a maroon steering wheel for a '66 Starfire a few
days ago.  I spent the day pulling the 425 out of a Dynamic 88 parts car.
The wheel is decent (a few small cracks, but quite presentable).   E-mail me
privately if interested.

    On the same topic, the RF fender on this car is good (minor rust) and
the LH is serviceable.  Hood and deck are also good.  I recall someone was
looking for a fender a while back.    Get in touch with me privately if
interested.

    All of above very reasonable.  Must act fast though.  Car is
disappearing as soon as I pick a few more items off it.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 21:35:55 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Partss

PLEASE!
E me direct and
I'll get back to you A.S.A.P
 
 Robert Schinkel
 docbob@caninet.com
 
 1966  B cylinder heads  (bare heads) >   $100
 
 1967  C cylinder heads with small heat riser hole>   $200
          Magnufluxed  -  complete
 
 1968

  442 grill emblem >   $40
 Nos Side marker light gaskets>   $10 all
 Nos front bumper rubbers (corner by fender)>  $30
 Ashtray Door >  $8
 Convertible top cylinders > $25 ea.
 Rear defroster switch > $20
 Motor mount heat shield > $8
 Conv. Top latches  >20.pr
 Conv. Vent windows with frames good chrome incl. glass  >$75.pr.
 Reverse light lens good condition > $10
 442 Carb  #7028251 >$100
 442 Air Cleaner w/lower tube>$75
 Intake for 442 398662 with choke> $50
 Choke pulldown only >$20
 Power Antenna Switch  >$20
 Plastic headlight doors > $225
 
 1969

 Wiper switch  > $20
 Radio plate (uncut)> $20
 Ashtray Doors   > $8
 Convertible top cylinders > $25
 Convertible Trunk Lid rustfree  > $150 
 Hood Hinges > $20pr
 442 Ashtray door with woodgrain Exc.>$10
 Motor mount heat shield  >$8
 glove box door - black w/woodgrain>$20
 Conv. Top latches >$20.pr
 Vacuum trunk switch >$20
 Taillight lens and some housings >$15 ea
 442 Taillight lenses $20ea
 69-72      Power window motors >  $20ea.
 
 1970
  Southern Trunk Lid (Holiday Coupe)  > $175 exc.
 Tail light lens (Cutlass) >  $15 ea
 Tail light lens (Supreme) > $20 ea
 Nos 455 Oil Dipstick tubes  > $20
 Lower Dash AC Vents (none 8 Track)>$100
 Dual Gate Shifter(shifter only)>$150
 Wheel Well Chrome (HC) complete set> $100
 Rear liscense plate brackets  > $10ea.
 Nos pass. side headlight frame(plastic)>  $75
 8 Track Complete (E me for details)>$100
 Nos fender script "Cutlass"  >  $25 ea
 Nos Horn Contact (sport wheel)  >  $25 ea
 F85 fender script >  $30 pr.
 Dash Plaques (Plastic around gauges W/ wood grain)   >   $20
 Convertible top cylinder > $25
 Hood Hinges > $15
 Motor mount heat shield> $5
 Conv. Top latches> $20.pr
 455 heads E casting> $100
 Convertible Top Switch  > $60
 1 NOS rear Wheel well Molding>$50
 69-72      Power window motors> $25 ea.
 
 1971 & 1972
 Front bumper directional lens> $8 ea.
 72 fender mount antenna - complete> $20
 Tail light lens > $12 ea. or $40 for set of 4
 Trunk lid script "O-L-D-S-M-O-B-I-L-E">  $20
 4-4-2 emblems set for 442 Grills >$30
 Dash Plaques (Wood Grain area around gauges) >$10
 Convertible top cylinders  > $25
 Hood Hinges   >$15
 Rear ¼ panel supreme extensions (supremes only)>$10
 Motor mount heat shield  >$5
 Conv. Top latches  >$20.pr
  69-72      Power window motors > $20 ea.
 
 1973
 Carb         7043256  >$40
 455 4BBL with crank drilled for 4 speed> $350

1974 & 75
Southern Fenders > $100ea.
442/Hurst Hood > $150 exc.

Shipping is extra 
Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 22:23:04 +0000
From: "Joe Gerschutz" <gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu>
Subject: Response to Idle Problems :::> Long

>130ft.lbs. is EXTREMELY too tight for a carb. I am suprised you 
>didn't crack the carb housing. The mounting should be 5-8ft. lbs, 
>just slightly more than snug.

>Have you verified that your choke is functioning and adjusted? If 
>so, then a vacuum leak is a strong suspect. Take a can of carb 
>cleaner and lightly spray around the base of the carb, around the 
>intake edges, and all the vacuum sources. If you find a vaccum leak, 
>the motor will rev slightly. I would strongly suspect the carb 
>baseplate if you torqued it to 130ft lbs, as it is probably warped 
>now. Also be sure to check that your plugs/wires are all in good 
>shape and you don't have a miss.

>Your '82 should have had an electric q-jet on it. If it was idling
>poorly, the electronics in the carb that control the idle are 
>probably shot and the carb should be rebuilt with new electronics. 
>(Idle solenoid I think?)


>Do some troubleshooting and get back to us with the results. We will
>all try to help.

>Stephen Hoover
>Dallas, Texas
>'70 Supreme

Well, luckily the bolts bottomed out in the manifold rather quickly 
and so I think no damage occured to my carb. My choke works, but I'm 
not sure how the setting is on it.  When cold, the choke plate should 
just be closed, with no spring tension holding it down?  Thats where 
its at. Back to the idle problem.  All my vacuum lines are good, with 
no opening.  My PCV valve isn't seated properly, but I'm working on 
that.  I've tested it by plugging it off and the valve cover off but 
still no change in idle. I can't spray carb cleaner around the edges 
because the car won't idle long enough for me to do it.  If I had a 
second person, then maybe, but without a consistent idle it would be 
hard to tell any RPM changes. 
	I did some testing on it today.  I had the mixture screws at about 3 
turns out.  The car ran better than before when cold, but when hot 
would stall at stop signs, and even slowing down.  Before, when the 
mixture screws were about 5.5 out (where they were at when I got the 
car), it ran bad cold but would at least idle when hot.  I did seem 
to get better the farther I backed the screws out today from the 3 
out position.  Any ideas?  BTW, the carb is the 77 non-comp. carb 
from the 77 350 in it.  I've tried plugging all vacuum lines coming 
out of the carb, but that didn't help.  
	Some other things that may matter: I don't have it accurately 
timed..  There is no timing tab/tape to gauge it.  I bought a 
replacement, but I can't figure out where it goes.  There's no room 
for it anywhere.  It didn't go on the water pump cover somewhere did 
it (the pump cover was replaced i think).  The mark on the harmonic 
balancer is there.  Also, when I installed the engine, I hooked a 
chain falls to a bolt in the block in front, and then I think 
somewhere on the manifold in the back.  Could this have pulled/warped 
the manifold somehow? Caused a vacuum leak?  I don't have my idle 
control solenoid (?) hooked up either (the little solenoid that 
pushes the throttle linkage, not the electronic carb gizmo.  The 
carb is non-comp.), as my 82 is wired for a motor idle control 
solenoid.  Just some thoughts.
	Here is my vacuum setup, maybe that will reveal something (again 
this is on a stock 77 carb): I have EGR through a check valve, 
through a temp switch of some sort, and into a port farthest over on 
the driver's side, about the middle (top to bottom).  Next there's a 
port 2nd farthest to the driver's side, near or in the throttle 
plate, which I think is either charcoal canister or vacuum advance. 
Then I have my fuel inlet in the middle of the carb.  Next I have a 
port near the top (not sure if its on the air horn or not), that 
sticks straight forward, which I have no idea what it goes to.  Then 
I have a port at the top, farthest passenger side, that sticks right 
at the front vacuum break, which I have it connected too.  On the 
back of the carb: I have two port at the top center.  One is capped 
off.  The other runs a metal line into the manifold right beside the 
heat riser tube for the choke.  There is the metal break booster line 
at the bottom, and one port to the passenger's side near the bottom, 
which I have through a temp swith to a T, and then to my rear vacuum 
break and air cleaner. I have my tranny metal line hooked to the port 
sticking up on the manifold itself.  I also have my interior 
temperature controls on this through a black plastic ball. I have no 
computer controls hooked up, except for temp and oil pressure.  The 
idle control solenoid (?) is not hooked up, because the 82 has a 
motor driven one that won't work with a solenoid (I presume).  Also, 
I haven't done a comp. test on it either.  Thanks

For those of you who made it this far through my ramblings, thanks 
and any help would be greatly appreciated.

Joe Gerschutz




.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 22:29:09 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: build sheet

would it be wrong for me to create a build sheet for my car?  i know all the
option codes and i have another 1970 build sheet in front of me to duplicate.
i just thought i could make one to look like the origional.  this would only
be used for shows.

mikeytvb@aol.com
1970 442 hc w/455

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 15:54:36 -0800
From: Todd Evans <evans@cts.com>
Subject: 1967 Cutlass convertible FS-no rust and it's cheap

I need to sell my 1967 Cutlass convertible, since I'm moving.  It's been a
California car it's entire life.  There is no rust anywhere on the car.
The body, floors, trunk floor (still has the original trunk mat), and frame
are all super clean.  Nice white power top, nice blue bench seat interior,
good door panels, column shift automatic, rebuilt 350 engine, 12 bolt
rearend, complete set of nice SSI wheels and caps w/ new tires.  Still has
valid CA registration.  Car currently in primer.  It had an electrical fire
and needs the dash replaced (I already removed the old one) and to be
rewired.  If you're looking for a good, no rust Oldsmobile convertible
project, this is it.  I wish I could take it with me.  $1,500 or best
offer, interesting trades considered.  Located near San Diego, CA  Contact
Todd at (760) 632-9312 or email to tevans@infiniteweb.com

Thanks,
Todd

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 15:52:08 -0800
From: Todd Evans <evans@cts.com>
Subject: 67 Cutlass convertible FS-no rust and it's cheap

I need to sell my 1967 Cutlass convertible, since I'm moving.  It's been a
California car it's entire life.  There is no rust anywhere on the car.
The body, floors, trunk floor (still has the original trunk mat), and frame
are all super clean.  Nice white power top, nice blue bench seat interior,
good door panels, column shift automatic, rebuilt 350 engine, 12 bolt
rearend, complete set of nice SSI wheels and caps w/ new tires.  Still has
valid CA registration.  Car currently in primer.  It had an electrical fire
and needs the dash replaced (I already removed the old one) and to be
rewired.  If you're looking for a good, no rust Oldsmobile convertible
project, this is it.  I wish I could take it with me.  $1,500 or best
offer, interesting trades considered.  Located near San Diego, CA  Contact
Todd at (760) 632-9312 or email to tevans@infiniteweb.com

Thanks,
Todd

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 22:36:35 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: build sheet

Mikeytvb@aol.com wrote:
> 
> would it be wrong for me to create a build sheet for my car?

Your car, your build sheet.  So what?  Like you said, it's only for
shows, and literature of any type is cool, even if hand made.  I mean,
look at it this way, is there ever any car show where at least ONE part
on any of the cars wasn't fabricated?

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 22:47:11 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Intake?

I've got a tripower intake from an early Olds - I think it may the "J-2"
set-up.  Anyone out there know how to confirm what this intake is from?
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a 'glide :-(
'75 Supreme - project car....
'82 Supreme - SB, 700R4, 3.73's - Grin!
'86 Supreme - V-8 - daily driver...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 23:08:53 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Response to Idle Problems :::> Long

In a message dated 12/5/98 7:21:28 PM Pacific Standard Time,
gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu writes:

<< There is the metal break booster line 
 at the bottom, and one port to the passenger's side near the bottom, 
 which I have through a temp swith to a T, and then to my rear vacuum 
 break and air cleaner >>

     I don't believe the rear vacuum break should be connected to the air
cleaner. It needs constant vacuum, and the air cleaner is more likely a vacuum
LEAK, unless it goes to the THERMAC switch I believe. I would disconnect any
vacuum lines going to a temp switch...I may be mistaken, but I doubt the
thermal vacuum switches(?) are that useful, except maybe for emissions, and
cold engine running. Can anyone out there with an UNTAMPERED 350/Quadrajet, or
a manual that has it, post the exact routing of the carb fittings? I believe i
know where most go, but I'd rather know for SURE.  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 23:09:51 EST
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Ram Air hoods-ASC&P

See an ad in Hemmings for these folks. They say they "make'em".
Any experiences with these guys for fibreglass hoods?
Peter
Coupeking@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 23:14:25 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: SS Flex Tubing

Anyone have an idea where I might locate polished stainless steel flex
tubing 3" - 4" ID x 6'L? Or whom might polish some bulk for me?
One of the last suppliers missing for the CC-IROC-SS project.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

ICQ# 5209322 = "CC-IROC-SS"
Personal ICQ Communication Center:
http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
Project Questions To:
mailto:cc-iroc-ss@CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 23:20:34 -0500
From: Joe & Toni Artwell <tjf26@gte.net>
Subject: 71 442 F\S

71 442, Excellent condition. If interested email me direct for more
information. Cleveland Ohio area. $8900.00.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 23:21:56 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Response to Idle Problems :::> Long

Joe, I may not be able to help with all your lines, but I can help with some.

>         Here is my vacuum setup, maybe that will reveal something (again
> this is on a stock 77 carb): I have EGR through a check valve,
> through a temp switch of some sort, and into a port farthest over on
> the driver's side, about the middle (top to bottom).

There should be a port on the passenger side on the throttle body (the aluminum
plate on the very bottom of the carb).  It will stick out at an angle sort of
toward the passenger side headlight.  This is your EGR port.  The port you are
currently using is for your distributor vacuum advance. Also, it's actually
closer to the bottom, right?  Mine is.

> Next there's a
> port 2nd farthest to the driver's side, near or in the throttle
> plate, which I think is either charcoal canister or vacuum advance.

It's for the charcoal canister purge.

> Next I have a
> port near the top (not sure if its on the air horn or not), that
> sticks straight forward, which I have no idea what it goes to.

Is it a bit larger than the canister purge port at the bottom?  I believe this
is your bowl vent port which should also go to the charcoal canister.  BTW, if
it's in the casting that's above the uppermost gasket, it's in the air horn, 
and
is likely your bowl vent.  Look carefully at your charcoal canister, there
should be some writing at each port identifying what it should be connected
to.

> I have a port at the top, farthest passenger side, that sticks right
> at the front vacuum break, which I have it connected too.

That's correct.

> On the
> back of the carb: I have two port at the top center.  One is capped
> off.  The other runs a metal line into the manifold right beside the
> heat riser tube for the choke.

The choke tube is correct.  I didn't think the '77's had the capped off one.
Mine, a '71, has that port and it's a vacuum relief for a solenoid activated
distributor vacuum switch.  My '73 Q-Jet doesn't have it.  Go figure.

> There is the metal break booster line
> at the bottom,

Your brake booster line runs to a port at the bottom rear of the carb?  I knew
Chevy and some other GM divisions did that.  My Olds (6 years older than your
engine/carb setup) has the booster line going to a fitting in the intake
manifold.

> and one port to the passenger's side near the bottom,
> which I have through a temp swith to a T, and then to my rear vacuum
> break and air cleaner.

Sorry, can't help much, here. I only have one vacuum break.  My air cleaner
thermac switch also goes directly to a fitting in the manifold.

> I have my tranny metal line hooked to the port
> sticking up on the manifold itself.  I also have my interior
> temperature controls on this through a black plastic ball.

My tranny vacuum modulator line goes to a fitting in the front of the manifold.
The vacuum ball is to a fitting in the rear of the manifold.  BTW, you do have
the PCV port connected, right?

> For those of you who made it this far through my ramblings, thanks
> and any help would be greatly appreciated.

I just hope I haven't muddied the waters.  BTW, for those things I said aren't
like mine, don't go changing things, yet, unless you feel like playing.  You
never know, Olds could have done a quick change in the way they routed some
things to be more like the other siblings.  Hopefully, some other folks on the
list will add to the info here.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 23:39:04 -0500
From: Norval Minnear <norval@ictransnet.com>
Subject: Re: Lightning Rod Shifter

W451973@aol.com wrote:
> 
> hey, thanks. sounds great. please send them to w451973@aol.com        thanks
> dennis
Will send pics. soon ,,,,Norval

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 5 Dec 1998 23:51:43 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Lightning Rod Shifter

Norval;

Put me on the pic list? Thanks...

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

ICQ# 5209322 = "CC-IROC-SS"
Personal ICQ Communication Center:
http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322 

Custom Conversion Prototype: 
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
Project Questions To:
mailto:cc-iroc-ss@CC-IROC-SS.com 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 23:56:36 -0500
From: Norval Minnear <norval@ictransnet.com>
Subject: Re: Lightning Rod Shifter

Norval;
> 
> Put me on the pic list? Thanks...
> 
> -----Regards,
> 
> Gary J. Couse
> Couse Customs
> mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com
> 
> ICQ# 5209322 = "CC-IROC-SS"
> Personal ICQ Communication Center:
> http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322
> 
> Custom Conversion Prototype:
> CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
> http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
> Project Questions To:
> mailto:cc-iroc-ss@CC-IROC-SS.com
Will do Gary it will be tomorrow , got to get pics out...Norval

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 23:13:02 -0600
From: Shang <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: Response to Idle Problems :::> Long

> solenoid.  Just some thoughts.
>         Here is my vacuum setup, maybe that will reveal something (again
> this is on a stock 77 carb): I have EGR through a check valve,
> through a temp switch of some sort, and into a port farthest over on
> the driver's side, about the middle (top to bottom).  


Disconnect the vacuum line going to the EGR valve itself and plug it.
See if that helps, you may have constant vacuum going to the EGR, which
will cause HORRIBLE idle. It should be a thermal ported vacuum. Also, if
the thermal switch has more than 2 ports, be sure they are all plugged.
Even if you have to temporarily plug them with tape or something.


For you timing, if you can start the engine easily, that is if it fires
up without lots of cranking, then you are at about 10deg BTDC, which is
fine.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 00:57:55 EST
From: Joeytada@aol.com
Subject: Re: For Sale: 3 H/Os and extra parts $7500

can you post the mail again?  I missed the origanal..

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 00:13:25 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Eastwood Vinyl Paint

I was looking to change my interior color on my 72 to black. Eastwood sells
teh black but it is called Landau Black. Is this the same black used in a
72 442? Has anyone used this product? I think the company name is SEM.


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 00:13:25 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Eastwood Vinyl Paint

I was looking to change my interior color on my 72 to black. Eastwood sells
teh black but it is called Landau Black. Is this the same black used in a
72 442? Has anyone used this product? I think the company name is SEM.


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 01:09:46 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: SS Flex Tubing

" CC-IROC-SS" wrote:

> Anyone have an idea where I might locate polished stainless steel flex
> tubing 3" - 4" ID x 6'L? Or whom might polish some bulk for me?
> One of the last suppliers missing for the CC-IROC-SS project.
> <snip>

What is the intended use for the tubing?

From: Mark Hahn
[mailto:mahahn@fuse.net]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 01:37:52 EST
From: Moparrp@aol.com
Subject: Re: FS:  '57-'67 Olds Parts

for sale; 1966 olds cutlass 2 dr. hdtp. 330 4v auto. ps pb ac tilt cruise pw
pseat, needs restored, 1000 obo.contact kevin gill,(314 261 9596) st louis,
mo.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 22:57:21 -0800
From: babyboo@pacbell.net
Subject: Re: ?Restoration?

hey ej, how 'bout one for a 1970 "442 "

BigEJ@aol.com wrote:

> On Thu, 3 Dec 1998, Mark wrote:
>
> > Since you all seem to know so much, where can I find an owners
> > manual for my 1975 Oldsmobile Delta 88.  When I bought it it did not
> > have one and have had no luck for 5 years.
> >
> Mark:
>
> I have an owners manual for 1975 Delta 88 for $15.00 if you'd like.
>
> I have a lot of Olds owners manuals from the late 60's to the early 80's.
> The dealership I worked for bought another Olds store.   The guys at the 
other
> store pulled the owners manuals from the used cars and just threw them in a
> pile.   Can't imagine why,  but now I have quite a selection of Olds,
> Cadillac, and other owners manuals all in decent shape.
>
> If anyone else wants something  give me a try.  $15.00 each, altho I might 
let
> the ultra desirable Peugeot or the Plymouth Volarie (sp?) manual go a little
> cheaper. ;-)
>
> Ernie Johnson
>
> 67 442
> 50  88

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 23:06:14 -0800
From: babyboo@pacbell.net
Subject: Re: Timing Chain

If you have the basic auto knoledge,tools, time and a harmonic balancer puller
and some paitence, you can do it in about 10 hours.

person wrote:

> Hello all,
>     I think the time for a new chain has come. Considering what my mechanic
> quoted me for the job(I can not even repeat what he said...), I want to
> change the chain myself. How big a job would that be? What pitfalls should I
> look out for? What timing chain kit to buy? Where? What other parts should
> be changed while I am in there? A lot of questions......
>
>                                       =
>                                            =
>                                                 =
> ==================================
> '69 Olds Ninety-Eight Topless Bubba======
> ====666=================999============
>         666                                  999
>
> VBDeveloepr@worldnet.att.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 05 Dec 1998 23:29:11 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Build sheet

While rummaging and hunting through my closet recently, I came across the
paperwork that came with my parts wagon.  Included with the owners manual &
sale info was a card, apprx 8" long and 3" or so wide with boxes and coded
numbers.  My '70 Super Bee had something similar to this as well in the
glove box when I bought it.  Is this the fabled build sheet?  (I never was
sure on my Super Bee either~!)  It is smaller then the Mopar version was.

This would be appropriate though - to have one for the car I  didn't keep:-)


Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible,  '72
Vista Cruiser, '80 GMC 

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 02:39:19 EST
From: DUKEOFBLUZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: For Sale: 3 H/Os and extra parts $7500

Must sell: 1975 Hurst/Olds, W-25 350cu. inch, black/gold stripes, swivel
buckets, t-tops, a/c, tilt,, Very good condition,, 84,000 miles,, pictured on
the Hurst/Olds web site in the photos section,, also on the OCC web site in
the " Members Garage" runs great!!

Also: 1975 Hurst/Olds W-30 455 cu.inch, white/gold stripes,,swivel buckets, t-
tops, a/c, tilt, this car has rare red interior,, rear quarters very rusty,
seats are in bad shape, but this car runs great!!!

Also: 1974 Hurst/Olds W-25 350 cu.inch, black/gold stripes,, swivel buckets,,
a/c,,
been sitting 12 years,, engine does not turn over,, restoration started ,,
needs rear quarters,, seats good except for drivers seat.

Also: Many parts from a 1975 Cutlass "S" including, hood, doors, trunk lid,
fenders, nose, dash, back seat, moldings, interior trim, and door panels, lots
of little things.

 I would like to sell everything to one person if that is posable
                                                      $7500
Thankyou, Jeffrey T. Fieldsend
Board of Director, OCC, Oldsmobile Cutlass Coupes 73-77
http://members.aol.com/cutlascoup/index.html
Member : Oldsmobile Club of America
Member : Hurst/Olds Club of America
(815)965-5242
located in Rockford IL

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 03:31:02 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Build sheet

> Included with the owners manual &
> sale info was a card, apprx 8" long and 3" or so wide with boxes and coded
> numbers.  My '70 Super Bee had something similar to this as well in the
> glove box when I bought it.  Is this the fabled build sheet?   

Well, no, not really.  This was the IBM Fischer Body card that was in
the car when they built the body. Had major options, mostly pertaining
to the car, and special instructions, if any....and it had the BODY
number on it, from the cowl tag, but not the vin, which, I suppose is
just as good.  The build sheet is a regular size piece of paper, with a
bunch of boxes filled with codes, for certain options/equipment to be
intsalled on the car, from shocks to radiators and fan clutches.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 07:45:45 EST
From: WCIngs@aol.com
Subject: 1969 Toronado

My dad is 83 years old and is selling his estate.  He owns a 1969 Toronado
which he bought new.  It is in a storage unit in Alabama where it has been for
the last 4 years.

Anyone who may know the rough value for such a vehicle, please help give him
an idea of the best way for him to sell his car.

Thank you for answering. 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 08:48:20 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: The J-2 intake was: Intake?

In a message dated 98-12-05 22:48:48 EST, you write:

<< I've got a tripower intake from an early Olds - I think it may the "J-2"
 set-up.  Anyone out there know how to confirm what this intake is from?
 Todd Daenzer >>

First off the J-2 will have "571145" cast in the front.

Secondly, the throttle plates of the appropriate 2-Jet carbs were small, about
the size of quarters, the later 2 barrel throttle plates (and appropriate
holes in intake) were visibly larger from about 1965 and after.

Further, this intake will only bolt onto the Oldsmobile 371cid engine made
from 1957-1960 (61? dammit, I just posted the years!....) due to clearances
with cylinder heads and block. 

Further, a special vaccuum linkage was used to allow the end carbs to go from
closed to WOT at 68 degree throttle opening on central carb. Central carb
provides all fuel for idle and off-idle!

Lack of this vacc system will require a jury-rigged mechanical linkage, if you
can scrape up the carbs at Ye Olde Junque Yardes. There are 371's lying
fallow. Just gotta find them!

I have this intake, a 371 lined up, and one of the three carbs rebuilt. I will
still need the appropriate jets, and some form of linkage that staggers carb
opening to eliminate the bog of both ends opening at once.

I would like to put this project motor in a 1964 or earlier *light* car like
the 1961-4 F-85 club coupe.

And please do not inundate with "Buy my 1961-4 F-85", Karl can NOT afford now!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 08:56:56 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: HEI Conversion Completed

Mike,
    According to my shop manual the wire from the '+' side of the coil to
the firewall is 20 gauge resistor wire(the points ignition).  From the
firewall to the ignition key it is 12gauge wire.  I figure I should be safe
with 10gauge from the 'Batt' terminal of the HEI distributer to the
firewall.  Agree?

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
>
>This will work but it is supposed to be a heavier gauge of wire.  The wire
>going to the "batt" terminal should be 10 gauge but 12 would do.
>
>Mike B
>mbloomer@gateway.net
>ICQ# 19113713
>72 Cutlass S (RIP)
>68 Cutlass Supreme
>
>>List Members,
>>    The update is done!  Last night I started about 9:30 pm and finished
up
>>at 12:30 am.  Reason it took so long is because I ran a compression check
>>while I was at it.  On #2 cylinder the needle just bounced.  Valve
>>problem....but that is a whole new thread.  I ordered my distributor
>>Wednesday and it arrived yesterday(Friday.)  Came with cap, rotor and
>wires.
>>I simply removed the old dist.(noted rotor position of course) and
>installed
>>the new one.  The only external electrical connection was the 'Batt'
>>terminal.  I simply took the two wires off the positive side of the coil,
>>installed the proper connector and connected it to the 'Batt' terminal.
>One
>>of the two wires is from the starter, the other is from the ignition.  The
>>wire from the ignition side is supposed to be a 1.35ohm resistor up to the
>>fire wall then when it enters the interior it is a regular wire.  This
wire
>>did not look like a resistor wire and I simply attached it.  Should I
>>replace the resistor wire with a regular wire?  The car ran fine once I
set
>>the timing.  Thanks for your help.
>>
>>Jim Brady

>------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 08:57:10 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rings in oil pan how serious?

In a message dated 98-12-03 18:39:55 EST, you write:

<< Well, the motor's a 4 barrel high compression version, though it only had
 single exhaust.  According the the specs it made 360 hp.... I do plan on
using high octane in it, though I was planning on getting a set of Edelbrok
heads to help with the detonation. >>

Detonation?

Any road... as the 425's are early motors (low F #s) and have high nickel
content, you may only have minor cylinder wall damage.

"Detonation" may be a result of the timing chain needing replacing.

Naturally you will benefit from dual exhaust. 
You did salvage the TH400 as well?

Gauranteed to be an s.p. tranny..........

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 08:57:09 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: 71 Hood Hinges/Springs

In a message dated 98-12-03 22:10:47 EST, you write:

<< The hood hinges and springs were originally gray phosphate. >>

Ah, that makes some sense.

It would be a waste of time/effort/money to paint or E-plate springs as the
torsion that they are normally subjected to would destroy the plating or flake
off the paint.

Especially when the springs are re-installed.

But a gray rubber coating would be more durable and prolong the life of the
part.....

Yah. 
Just another hallucination.

KA

&SOM
(who needs a new hood insulation pad....)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 09:04:38 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: HEI Conversion Completed

Ron,
    I purchased the distributor from Jim Chermack on Wednesday and had it
here by Friday.  Cost was $45 with cap, rotor, coil and wires that were in
great condition.  The HEI distributor is and electronic distributor with the
coil attached to the cap for one self contained, neatly organized electronic
ignition.  In otherwords all ignition components are contained within the
distributor itself.  Well worth the upgrade, I don't particularly enjoy
setting gap and dwell even though GM has the easiest point system to adjust.
Good Luck.

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
>
>Where did you get the distributer from and did you use your original coil.
>
>
>Ron Hengerer
>
>------------------------------
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 09:18:07 EST
From: RPTW32@aol.com
Subject: Re: Eastwood Vinyl Paint

In a message dated 12/6/98 1:10:42 AM Eastern Standard Time,
PETTRIX@prodigy.net writes:

<< Has anyone used this product? I think the company name is SEM. >>
Yes I have in past. GREAT STUFF but you need to get the vinyl prep also before
your spray the color. Prep opens up pores in vinyl and allows dye to penetrate
to fullest. Fact, I changed a full saddle brown interior to white and once
completed you'd never know it wasn't original. Best thing is this stuff won't
wear off either.
Check out any local auto paint stores in area also. They usually carry it as
well in spray cans.

Rgds,
Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 09:32:22 EST
From: DrkSole96@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rings in oil pan how serious?

In a message dated 98-12-06 08:58:49 EST, you write:

<< Detonation?
 
 Any road... as the 425's are early motors (low F #s) and have high nickel
 content, you may only have minor cylinder wall damage.
 
 "Detonation" may be a result of the timing chain needing replacing.
 
 Naturally you will benefit from dual exhaust. 
 You did salvage the TH400 as well?
 
 Gauranteed to be an s.p. tranny..........
 
 SOM
 
 &KA
  >>
Well, even though the tranny shifted alright, I didn't save it.  I figured
it'd need a rebuild anyway, so I might as well just get a new one later.  What
is an s.p. tranny?

DrkSole
73 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 09:34:35 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: The J-2 intake was: Intake?

Karl,
    Thank you for the info - I will pull the numbers off of the intake today 
and
post - (good excuse to be out in the barn ) :-)
Todd

KarlAune@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 98-12-05 22:48:48 EST, you write:
>
> << I've got a tripower intake from an early Olds - I think it may the "J-2"
>  set-up.  Anyone out there know how to confirm what this intake is from?
>  Todd Daenzer >>
>
> First off the J-2 will have "571145" cast in the front.
>
> Secondly, the throttle plates of the appropriate 2-Jet carbs were small, 
about
> the size of quarters, the later 2 barrel throttle plates (and appropriate
> holes in intake) were visibly larger from about 1965 and after.
>
> Further, this intake will only bolt onto the Oldsmobile 371cid engine made
> from 1957-1960 (61? dammit, I just posted the years!....) due to clearances
> with cylinder heads and block.
>
> Further, a special vaccuum linkage was used to allow the end carbs to go from
> closed to WOT at 68 degree throttle opening on central carb. Central carb
> provides all fuel for idle and off-idle!
>
> Lack of this vacc system will require a jury-rigged mechanical linkage, if 
you
> can scrape up the carbs at Ye Olde Junque Yardes. There are 371's lying
> fallow. Just gotta find them!
>
> I have this intake, a 371 lined up, and one of the three carbs rebuilt. I 
will
> still need the appropriate jets, and some form of linkage that staggers carb
> opening to eliminate the bog of both ends opening at once.
>
> I would like to put this project motor in a 1964 or earlier *light* car like
> the 1961-4 F-85 club coupe.
>
> And please do not inundate with "Buy my 1961-4 F-85", Karl can NOT afford 
now!
>
> SOM
>
> &KA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 09:56:10 EST
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Engine Block Bolts

Can anyone help me out with the specs on bolts intended to fasten things to
the enigne block (71 455)?  Previous owner has things bolted in the wrong
places and I need to straighten it out.  The coil bracket is currently screwed
to the firewall, so I need to know what bolt to use to put it where it should
be.  Also, the negative battery cable is attached to an exhaust manifold bolt
and I'm sure it's supposed to have its own connection to the block.  Any help
on bolts (threads, lengths, etc.) and exact locations for this stuff would be
appreciated.  Thanks in advance...

Scott
71 442 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 10:13:25 -0500
From: Dale Hicks <dale442@earthlink.net>
Subject: 68 442

history on this year of 442  great car

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 10:18:16 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: HEI Conversion Completed

>    According to my shop manual the wire from the '+' side of the coil to
>the firewall is 20 gauge resistor wire(the points ignition).  From the
>firewall to the ignition key it is 12gauge wire.  I figure I should be safe
>with 10gauge from the 'Batt' terminal of the HEI distributer to the
>firewall.  Agree?


More than adequate. 12 gage would be good enough.

General wiring practice is to size a wire for the current draw of the load,
and fuse the wire appropriately at the source end. In the case of ignition,
which draws maybe 10 amps max, a 14 gage wire protected by a 15 amp fuse
would be perfect. But GM chose to feed a whole bunch of circuits, including
ignition, from a fusible link 10 gage (30 amp) feed line. Then they tapped
off that with 12's which are 20 amp wires. Seems dumb, since in theory, a 12
gage wire could get hot enough to melt it's insulation before the fuse blows
(with a partial short).

Whatever.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 07:44:04 -0800
From: "Greg" <gjackso1@san.rr.com>
Subject: list

CAN ANYONE TELL ME HOW TO GET OFF OF THIS LIST.  I TRIED THE CORRECT WAY
WITH NO SUCCESS ANY HELP WILL BE APPRECIATED.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 07:46:53 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Block Bolts

At 09:56 AM 12/6/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Can anyone help me out with the specs on bolts intended to fasten things to
>the enigne block (71 455)?  Previous owner has things bolted in the wrong
>places and I need to straighten it out.  The coil bracket is currently
screwed
>to the firewall, so I need to know what bolt to use to put it where it should
>be.  Also, the negative battery cable is attached to an exhaust manifold bolt
>and I'm sure it's supposed to have its own connection to the block.  Any help
>on bolts (threads, lengths, etc.) and exact locations for this stuff would be
>appreciated.  Thanks in advance...
>
The coil should bolt to the intake right near #6 cylinder. 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 11:27:59 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: list

Below is all you need to know:


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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 11:47:36 EST
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1984 Hurst F/S in KY

There was a H/o for sale in KY posted on the list awhile ago. did anyone go
and look at the car? if so please let me know I might be interested in the
car. here is the add. Thanks Chris

1984 Hurst/Olds limited Edition, T-tops,lightning rods, rear spoiler,
engine and transmission rebuilt, all mechanics new.  $2,200 or best
offer.  

CHRIS SOMMERVILLE
69 442SC
70 442HC
70 W31

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 13:04:28 -0400
From: "Brian Smith" <smithclan@sprint.ca>
Subject: PDL wiring & cam selection

I am in the process of copying a factory power door lock harness for my 71
SX and I am puzzled as to why the factory uses two or three different guages
in the same harness. It comes out of the fuse box as 10 Guage (thick orange
power feed), then that is spliced into 12 guage which runs to the switches.
From the 12 guage there are splices of 14 guage to the solenoids. What's the
theory behind this? You would think the harness would be limited in it's
capacity to the thinnest wire used in the harness. Any insights? I know zero
about electrical current draw or amps.

Secondly, regarding my 455 rebuild, basically stock with a few improvements,
I have the opportunity to purchase the following cam, springs and lifters.
It is a Crower #56262 with the following specs:
Duration intake - 211@.050/ exhaust-220@.050. Lift intake - .461 exhaust -
.486. RPM range 1800-5000. It seems to fit in between Mondello's JM16 and JM
16-18 which is what I was thinking of using for an improvement over the
stock cam.(562303) I know this is mild for most of you but I like the
smooth, quiet and torque the Olds big block gives you in stock form.
The Crower springs are stiffer than stock of course with the following
specs:: 1.850@90lbs 1.350@285lbs 388lbs per inch.
Will these be OK with a stock type of rebuild? How relatively stiff are
these?
Do they cause the valve train to wear quicker?
The lifters are sealed power.
Is Crower a good cam, quality wise?
What is a good price to pay for cam, springs and lifters in a package deal?

Many thanks
Brian
Halifax, Nova Scotia
71 SX

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 12:17:07 EST
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: 68 H/O questions

I am looking at a 68 H/O and cannot find any iformation on how to verify that
it is a True H/O. I know that theyu were all 442's and Ibelieve mabe in
Michigan. I have the restoration guide, butu it is vauge in those areas would
appreciate any help the list can provide. Thanks and Happy Holidays, Chris

CHRIS SOMMERVILLE
69 442SC
70 442HC 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 12:27:17 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: 71 Hood Hinges/Springs

KarlAune@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 98-12-03 22:10:47 EST, you write:
>
> << The hood hinges and springs were originally gray phosphate. >>
>
> Ah, that makes some sense.
>
> It would be a waste of time/effort/money to paint or E-plate springs as the
> torsion that they are normally subjected to would destroy the plating or 
flake
> off the paint.
>
> Especially when the springs are re-installed.
>
> But a gray rubber coating would be more durable and prolong the life of the
> part.....
>
> Yah.
> Just another hallucination.
>
> KA
>
> &SOM
> (who needs a new hood insulation pad....)

AHAH!!!!
Another application for Calyx.

From: Mark Hahn [mailto:mahahn@fuse.net]

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 06 Dec 1998 12:43:04 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: 68 H/O questions

> I am looking at a 68 H/O and cannot find any iformation on how to verify that
> it is a True H/O. I know that theyu were all 442's and Ibelieve mabe in
> Michigan.

Well, if it's a matching numbers block, it better have a 455 in it. 
Also, there is SOMETHING about the body tag under body color that is
different, since Peruvian silver was a Toro color only.  I can't
remember that code off hand, but it's different.

MAY have woodgrain applique on dash, real wood.  Plus the wood sport
wheel.

They had a OW tranny, and "D" heads, unless air equipped, then they were
"C"s.

Should have 3.42 or 3.91 rear gears.  I'm NOT sure if they used 3.23s in
68 air cars or not.

In essence, the H/O was a W-30 with a 455 instead of a 400.  It had
under bumper ram air AND red inner fenders (a gift from John Beltz, they
were scheduled to be black)

Unlike it's 69 sister car, the 68 has VERY few documented VIN's to
determine its authenticity.  It DOES have a 442 VIN and all were made in
Lansing.  However, it would take a good amount of cash to fake one
properly.

I'm not heavy into the 68 versions, but maybe this can help. 
HURSTOLDZ@aol.com has one.  He may be a better candidate for more info.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 13:33:27 -0500
From: "jackkopf" <jackkopf@email.msn.com>
Subject: Date:	Sun, 6 Dec 1998 13:33:27 -0500

Hello
My name is Jack and I just joined the list. I recently acquired a 1970 98
conv and am searching for
a hood,header panel, grills,skirts and a front bumper. If anyone either has
the parts or has a source
I would be appreciative. My preference would to find the parts in the
northeast USA as I live on Long Island (suburb of NYC).


TIA
Jack

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 13:07:57 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Eastwood Vinyl Paint

I too have the saddle brown interior and I was thinking of going to black,
but now white would be even better. I am getting new skins, so I can just
get the white skins.

My question is which white is the brightest or more in line with pearl
white for a 72 442 convertible? 
The white they sell is a white and then a super white. Which one did you
use?
In your opinion on a 72 442 convertible with a medium blue exterior and
white stripes, which interior color is better looking, black or white?

Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: RPTW32@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Eastwood Vinyl Paint
> Date: Sunday, December 06, 1998 8:18 AM
> 
> In a message dated 12/6/98 1:10:42 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> PETTRIX@prodigy.net writes:
> 
> << Has anyone used this product? I think the company name is SEM. >>
> Yes I have in past. GREAT STUFF but you need to get the vinyl prep also
before
> your spray the color. Prep opens up pores in vinyl and allows dye to
penetrate
> to fullest. Fact, I changed a full saddle brown interior to white and
once
> completed you'd never know it wasn't original. Best thing is this stuff
won't
> wear off either.
> Check out any local auto paint stores in area also. They usually carry it
as
> well in spray cans.
> 
> Rgds,
> Rob Thomas
> 69 442

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 6 Dec 1998 15:16:35 EST
From: RAC5419@aol.com
Subject: Re: Eastwood Vinyl Paint; interior colors

In a message dated 12/6/98 1:05:52 PM Central Standard Time,
PETTRIX@prodigy.net writes:

<< In your opinion on a 72 442 convertible with a medium blue exterior and
 white stripes, which interior color is better looking, black or white?
  >>
I like the black interior better. White is too hard to clean even if use is
limited for a show quality car. You may want to consider the black interior,
black boot and white for the top. I've got a white convertible top and it
really compliments the white stripes. The interior and boot though are black.
Don't know if this is the way the car came but  it does look good. Anyone know
if Olds did this at the factory?

Anyone got a site to post pictures? It's still a before car, but looks good
from 20 feet and in a photo. Only have top down photos scanned now, but may be
able to get the white top up photos scanned next week.

Dick Compton
72 442 convertible

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1645
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