Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1637


oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, December 2 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1637



Re: Olds Oil Filters
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
67Cutlass supreme front seat information
Re: UNBOUNCE: Posi, necessary for High speed power?
Re: 455 buildup/info, Thanks.
about your site
Re: '70 Core Support / Grille
Re: 8.5" ten bolt
Re: Rearend ratios
Re: Alternator output too high?
Olds Con Rods!
Re: DRL's
Non Olds,  but Harley Davidson
Re: 8.5" ten bolt
Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock
Re: Olds 350 and High RPM's
Re: 455 buildup/info, Thanks.
Re: '70 Core Support / Grille
Bucket Seat Brackets
Re: Exhaust Manifold Woes
All Bow to the Wisdom of Andy Green
Re: '70 Core Support / Grille
Re: Alternator output too high?
Re: Made it in Magazine.
Re: Noise and vibration on 72 Supreme
New Noise and Vibration
Re: 455 buildup/info, Thanks.
Re: 455 buildup/info, Thanks.
Re: '62 Jetfire FS (fwd)
Re: Rearend ratios
Better Horns?
Re: Better Horns?
Re: 8.5" ten bolt
73 Rear Quarters.
Olds TV Sighting
Olds List Centennial Video
Re: Olds Oil Filters
Heater Core
SSIII's FS
Re: Alternator output too high?
Re: Heater Core
Noise and vibration on 72 Cutlass supreme (new info)
Re:  Heater Core
(Fwd) this is a hoot
UNBOUNCE: SSIII's FS
wheels
Re: Holley Pro-jection forsale?
Re: 73 Rear Quarters.
Re: Better Horns?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 18:01:33 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Olds Oil Filters

You are thinking of a PH 25 FRAM noit a PF 25 AC.  PH 25 FRAM  is the Fram
version of the AC PF 24 Olds filter.
From: DYeager535@aol.com <DYeager535@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, December 01, 1998 3:48 PM
Subject: Re: Olds Oil Filters


>In a message dated 12/1/98 12:41:39 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>FSNissen@worldnet.att.net writes:
>
><< Am I brain dead or is the PF 25 a Chebby filter? >>
>
>
>     Of course I can't find the piece of paper that I wrote the numbers
down
>on, but I am pretty sure it's PF 25 for ALL Olds 350's and 403's I could
find
>in their "computer". The 3249 (or whatever the # the diesel truck and cars
>take) is the smaller one which looks entirely different and wouldn't work
IMO.
>Dorian
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 18:09:26 EST
From: TerrysMHS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

Just bought a 1972 olds surpreme 350 with a dual gate shifter. Good shape for
the east.Is that shifter a neat feature.I have yet to try it out yet. Going
threw brakes first, then we will try her out .            Drained out the
tranny. Changed fluid and filter. Filled it up , got the motor runing up to
temp. drove her around the park slow, nobrakes. when i put it in revers it
grinds slow then clunks in. should we pull it and rebuild. or is something
eles we can try.it did sit for ten years . I am new to computer and to this
site.But this is great and I am learning alot. thanks 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 15:19:16 -0800
From: Roy Rutz <ROYR@cdpr.ca.gov>
Subject: 67Cutlass supreme front seat information

With the help of this group I have determined that the correct front seat
options for my 67 cutlass Supreme are either a bench with a fold down
center armrest or buckets.  I have a straight bench W/O the arm rest.  

I assume the seats were not tied to the numbers?  I am doing a complete
interior redo.  Other than upholstry patterns, were all the BOP 67 seats
similar as far as frames go?  In other words could I get a similar  Buick
skylark or Pont, La Mons seat and recover in Cutlass upholstry and be
"correct".   Could I go up or down in years? 

I have a pretty good yard here in Northern California.  You can catch
them at {www.gillys.com} I will probably head there on Friday and would
like to know my latitude in selection.

royr
67 Cutlass Supreme Turnpike Cruiser

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 17:38:07 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Posi, necessary for High speed power?

REPOST,
sorry if this is a repost but i didn't see on my list

Shane wrote:

> Jim,
>
> I would say no, a posi is not necessary unless you have a problem of frying 
your
> tires when passing someone at 60 mph, and if so please send me a copy of your
> engine combo!!
>
> Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
> > ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> > From:   "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
> > Subject: Posi, necessary for High speed power?
> >
> > Here is a general question that pertains to my Olds.  I have contemplated
> > whether or not I should consider an anti-spin(posi) differential.  After
> > learning the joys of posi for off-the-line acceleration in my '63 Chevy, is
> > it real necessary for high speed acceleration?  Considering my car has what
> > I believe to be a 2.56 rear(and I want to keep it that way for cruising
> > speeds!) would a posi even be necessary considering I am after passing 
power
> > and not off-the-line launching power?
> >
> > Jim Brady
> > 1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
> > http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
> > bradyiii@shore.intercom.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 17:39:15 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Re: 455 buildup/info, Thanks.

sorry if this is a repost i didn't see it on my list

Shane wrote:

> Cliff Simpson wrote:
>
> > Hi Shane,
> >
> >         I assume this is a 455 with a th400, (I know, dumb statement) and 
your
> > fairly happy with the cam but would like to move the power up the band a
> > little?
>
> That's right. It raps as fast as you can shift in lo an 2nd but kinda quits 
about 5200 in
> high. It still feels like it's pulling it just takes longer to pull more 
rpm. Low-end is
> incredible, actually too much, the only way I can keep it from boiling the 
hides is
> slicks.
>
> >  I just calculated the difference between your differential and
> > mine (3.31 posi) and it looks like I would be running 71 mph at 3000.
> > Of course that assumes we're running the same size rear wheels and
> > torque convertor (same amount of slippage).  I think my convertor is one
> > inch smaller than stock right now but I may go back to stock again.  I
> > would like to make a couple of passes down the track but mostly I'm
> > interested in cruising.
> >
>
> My speed at 3000 rpm might not be right on. I just followed someone going 
50-55mph and my
> tach said 2700, so I just figured about 60 at 3000.My tires now are BFG 
275/60/15 Comp
> TA's. My convertor is 10".
>
> >         Since your making enough power that your getting into the 12's and 
feel
> > you should be even lower, your probably running the TRW 2323L forged
> > pistons, no?  I priced them out at about $20.00 more per set than cast.
> > I guess since Olds cast pistons are so much they catch right up with the
> > forged.  It was a no-brainer.
> >
>
> I don't recall the part # but yes they are TRW forged advertised at 10.25 
cr. For the
> difference in price (or lack there of) I would suggest getting the forged 
pistons.
> They're not really necessary but why not have a better piece for the same 
money.
>
> >         Did you port you're heads?  I was out looking at my E heads that I 
had
> > a small machine shop rebuild about 4 years ago (just now have enough
> > cash to do the rest) and I noticed that they have bumps inside the
> > exhaust tunnels about 1.75" from the outside.  I assume these are the
> > infamous AIR bumps that should be ground down.
> >
> >         Since I have these heads already done I think I may just run them 
down
> > to the race shop and have them check the springs.  If they are fine then
> > I'll run these for a while until I can afford the Performer intake and
> > doing my C heads properly.  Changing heads isn't that big a deal.  By
> > the way, what intake are you using?
> >
>
> I had Mondello do his street/strip port job on my C heads, it's mainly just 
on the
> exhaust side but that's where most of the constipation comes from anyway. 
Yeah those
> A.I.R. bumps are another big clog in the butt, err I mean exhaust. I am 
using an old swap
> meet Torker intake. Does anyone know if Edelbrock has made any improvements 
on the Torker
> in the last few years, or is there a better intake out there for up to 
6000-6500 rpm for
> the bb Olds? I have a brand new, in the box Performer I was going to use but 
I have to
> much lo-end already and didn't want to lower my power band any more. It's 
for sale for
> $20.00 less than whatever the going price is in Summit/Jegs if anyone's 
interested. I
> live in central Nebraska.
>
> >         I don't quite understand why the '67's need the small brake 
booster but
> > the '69's can use a fairly regular sized one.  Did they move the brakes
> > over a couple of inches?, are the later cars just a little wider?, or do
> > the older cars have their engines up higher?
>
> The stock brake booster fit fine until I put taller valve covers on it.
>
> > I also find it interesting
> > that your car only weighs 3300 lbs.  The 1969 ad said that the 442 was
> > built like a 1-3/4 ton watch (the ad is on my site at
> > http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson if you haven't seen it) so that works
> > out to 3500 lbs.  But your car is a convertible which should have more
> > metal in the frame (fully boxed?) and yet it's lighter.  Maybe that GM
> > executive that proclaimed that "Americans buy their cars just like their
> > meat, by the pound" felt they should inflate the weight to get more
> > money :))
> >
>
> In the Cutlass, A Book of Information, it list my Cutlass (not Supreme) 
convertible as
> weighing 3308lbs compared to the Cutlass Holiday Coupe at 3219lbs. The 
Supreme version of
> my convertible is listed as weighing 3790lbs. Never weighed my car, I'm just 
going by the
> book. Granted that's shipping weight and probably dry, but I doubt if fluid 
would add
> 50lbs to the weight.
>
> Shane Gibreal
>
> >
> >
> > Shane wrote:
> > >
> > > Cliff,
> > >
> > > I have a Mondello (Engle) cam #JM-25-28, .523"/544" - 280/292. It runs 
real hard,
> > > especially down low. Gas mileage isn't very good but I blame that on my 
carb and
> > > convertor more than the cam. It's got a 3500 stall and an 850 double 
pumper w/
> > > mechanical secondaries. Going down the hi-way at 3000 rpm, approx. 60 
mph w/ 3.90
> > > gears, it gulps gas like it was beer. I think the secondaries are 
opening at that
> > > rpm. Also the convertor is slipping not allowing all the power to be put 
to the
> > > pavement. If I open it up to around 3300 rpm it jumps up 10-15 mph I'm 
guessing
> > > because the convertor is begining to lock-up better, but I don't think 
it's to good
> > > to run it any higher than 3000 for more than a few minutes. When I'm in 
town just
> > > putting around it does much better on gas.
> > > The car is '67 Cutlass convertible, weight 3300 lbs.?, idles from 700 to 
1000 (no
> > > choke, I turn it up in the winter) it will idle lower but it bogs when I 
punch it
> > > from idle if it's any lower, idle vacuum is 8-11 now, I am going to 
change my cam
> > > timing this winter, hopefully this will make a difference. Even w/ low 
vacuum I am
> > > still running power brakes, it is the small diameter setup that Mondello 
sells. I
> > > think it's the same one you can get from Master Power Brakes. I had to 
use this
> > > because my valve covers wouldn't clear any other one I could find. So 
far I have
> > > ran a 12.92 at 99 mph w/ full exhaust. It should run a lot quicker but 
my coil
> > > springs are way to stiff and I think my cam timing is off too.
> > > Sorry to ramble.
> > >

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 00:07:54
From: <mri87492@yahoo.com>
Subject: about your site

            We'll Submit Your Site To 

                    Over 900

     Search Engines, Directories, & Indices

      For A "One Time Cost" Of Only $39.95


     ***  100% Money Back Guarantee  ***

*** Immediately Increase Your Sites Exposure ***

 For Less Than 4 Cents Each We Will Submit Your
 Web Site To Over 900 Of The Net's Hottest Search 
 Engines, Directories & Indices.

 If your site isn't listed in the Search Engines,
 how can people find you to buy your products 
 or services?
 
 For just $39.95 we'll take the work load off your
 back instead of you trying to do it manually which
 can take days to do.

 We're the professionals that are here to help
 you have a shot at having a successful marketing
 experience with the internet.

 You know as well as we that your time is
 best utilized managing your business and not
 sitting at some keyboard hours upon hours
 trying to save less than 4 cents for each  
 submission. See how it's kind of crazy to try
 to tackle this on your own.  It's just not 
 cost effective to try to do this yourself to
 save just $39.95.

 See why thousands and thousands of businesses 
 world wide both large and small have come to 
 us to utilize our services.  Hotels, Motels,
 On-Line Stores, Travel Agents, Colleges, 
 Universities, Governments, Fortune 500 companies,
 Movie Studios, Chambers Of Commerce and many,
 many more.  Shouldn't you give us a call now?

 To Learn More, Call Us At The Numbers Below.
 
 Call us toll free at (800) 771-2003 in the USA
 and Canada or outside the USA at (916) 771-4739
 and we'll provide you with all the necessary
 information to get you submitted Right Away.






To be removed from our mailing list, please
respond with the word remove in the subject.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 16:46:00 -0700
From: karoe@us.ibm.com
Subject: Re: '70 Core Support / Grille

_________________________________________
(Does it actually unlatch the latch if you pull on that stub?)
Also, there may not be much black undercoat-type paint left in
the area after all these years,but whatever finish you can find
on the latch piece should look the same as the core support
the same. If not, the latch support was changed at some point.
__________________________________________

Several yanks on the cable with vise grips did not seem to operate the
latch. (housing came off cable, skin off knuckles...)
Car has been restored, restified or whatever proper jocularity there is, so
checking the weathered state is kinda out, but very good idea !
I'm voting for the changed latch support, but mebbe the entire core support
?
I dont see the "ears" on the core support that might indicate '71, '72
grille mounts.
Dunno about earlier than this '70 as for grille mounts.
Okay, so if it is the latch support, is this separate from the latch itself
?
Thanks again,
Kyle

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 18:45:04 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: Re: 8.5" ten bolt

Hello all,
 My 2 cents on the 8.5" ten bolt;
I've seen plenty of stout cars running this rear at my local track. One
was a 3700LB 76 Cutlass[455] that ran 11.1. This car had a junkyard posi
with no high dollar parts. He had run it for years with no prob.
 This rear has the same size pinion shaft and bearings as the 12 bolt.
It's very similar in design, with a 3/8" smaller ring gear.
Dave Brode
64 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 16:48:00 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Rearend ratios

>Jeremy,
>
> When you installed the 3.73's, did you correct the speedo drive gears?
>The combination you are running, 3.73's, .67 OD, and 26" tires makes
>2800-3000 RPM @ 70MPH physically impossible. I run this exact same setup
>in my '70 and I turn about 2150 @ 70MPH. Either your speedo is off, your
>tach is wrong, or your OD is not working.

I agree.  With 3.23s and 26.5" tires,  I run about 2800 RPM.  A .67 (or .69,
depending on source, but no realistic diff) the 3.73 gears turn into about
2.5 ratio.  You should be turning no more then 2500 rpm, unless your
converter is slipping drastically.  What kind of a converter is it.  If it
is stock, it should be a lock-up, making RPM even less.  I would like OD and
4.10 posi.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 18:04:59 -0600 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator output too high?

I have successfully adapted (read:  very easy!) the 1991 Cadillac 4.9L V8
140 amp alternator (no heated glass) to my 91 Bonneville with the 3800 "C"
engine.

Olds Content:  The 88-91 88/98 can also use this one!

Eliminates the problems with the CS130 alternator frying at an early age.
The CS144 is MUCH bigger and better.

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 18:09:33 -0600 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Olds Con Rods!

Can someone please send me directly the specifics on the Olds BB and SB
connecting rods?

I am looking for all dimension possible, big end, small end, length,
thickness at the big and small end, compression distance for 307, 330, 350,
403, 400, 400, 425, and 455.  (center of pin to top of piston).

I am working on a stroker motor and need to know.  Someone out there is
bound to have some specifics from Olds or Mondello.

Thanks!
Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 18:31:02 -0600 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: DRL's

When my dad taught me to drive that is what he warned me about, if you ever
kill someone you will never forget it.  He was referring to driving in a
subdivision with kids around, but either way, you have the feeling.  I feel
for you, I have not had the same experience, but I have had close calls
enough to know the same fate would have happened.  I hope my 3 and 4 year
old never have to experience it when they drive.  

Do what you want, but being seen is 50% of the battle the other is someone
actually looking, seeing, and doing something about it.  The DRL's CAN help,
that is about it.  

>but the memory will stay with me.
>My oldest son is 5, and when he gets his license he'll receive
>a folder of news clippings from 1993 to read.

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 19:33:56 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Non Olds,  but Harley Davidson

Ok Ok     I know this is probably the wrong thing to do,
but................................ 


 do any of you out there want to buy a MINT  1400 mile 1998 Harley Wide
Glide??????????  
 
My brother needs to sell it.    He also has a fresh 468 inch block and crank.
Orig from a 69 Toronado  Make an offer.

Thanks

Vinny
62 Starfire
68 Hurst/Olds

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 17:44:20 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 8.5" ten bolt

I've got a junkyard 8.5 3.23 posi out of a big buick.  It sits behind my 455
in the '81 Delta.  It works fine, no problems yet (except for the no
traction/two smoking tires)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 18:42:13 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock

hey guys just been burned by them before so watch yourselves besides
hurst/mr. gasket will rebuild any of their shifters for a nominal fee much
less than the replacment fee...KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: Socalolds@aol.com <Socalolds@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, December 01, 1998 1:44 AM
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter, The Paddock


>Jason,
>The shifter the Paddock is selling is the real Mccoy. Mr Gasket still makes
>the exact Olds dualgate shifter and the top plate is being reproduced by
some
>co. in the east. IT is an exact copy. And I believe it comes with a correct
>aftermarket cable.The only thing I think you may have a problem getting is
the
>wood grain for  the top plate. Still $450 ( or whatever they were asking)
is
>HIGH. If you're still thinking about it I have a new one-complete  I'll
sell
>you  for $399. Including an NOS cable.
>good Luck
>Dennis

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 19:48:17 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds 350 and High RPM's

In a message dated 12/1/98 8:24:02 AM Central Standard Time,
rockman20@yahoo.com writes:

<< Do I just hold it WOT until the
 lifters float and then check tach or what >>


...HAHA!...That's what I do in my 65 330...rev it till the valves float...then
shift! Only problem is my valves are floating at 5800 due to stock 70,000+
mile springs on a .520 lift cam.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 19:00:29 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: 455 buildup/info, Thanks.

The 1969 ad said that the 442 was
>> > built like a 1-3/4 ton watch (the ad is on my site at
>> > http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson if you haven't seen it) so that works

Can someone else please go to this site, go to the 442 section and see if
you are able to click on and enlarge ANY of the pictures without your
browser going south?  Whenever I try it Netscape Communicator ab-ends.
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 21:08:13 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: '70 Core Support / Grille

On Tue, 1 Dec 1998 karoe@us.ibm.com wrote:
> Several yanks on the cable with vise grips did not seem to operate the
> latch. (housing came off cable, skin off knuckles...)

Keep in mind that the cable you find at the hood latch in a '70 is not a
hood release, but an interior hood lock. Keeps someone from opening the
hood with the outside release unless the hood lock is in the unlocked
position. Quite a prized option on these cars -- too bad if the cable is
now messed up. 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 19:29:17 EST
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Bucket Seat Brackets

I am ready to put the inside of my Rallye 350 back together, and I want to
know if it makes a difference if the bucket seat brackets can be bolted down
or welded. I have them bolted and they are pretty sturdy. Will this work? 
Thanks,
Jim McKeague

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 20:09:37 EST
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Woes

In a message dated 12/1/98 5:32:35 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ab348@chebucto.ns.ca writes:

<< 
 Those of you with long memories will recall that back in the summer the
 '78 Delta suffered a cracked exhaust manifold on the right side. I
 obtained a used replacement. Instead of having it surface-planed I cleaned
 it u >>
Hi Greg
  Had that same pain in the neck problem with the Vista Cruiser. That noise
was annoying. I tried it all but had no luck until I had the exhaust manifold
machined. It doesn't take much to create that exhaust blow-by. Its been three
years and the problem never came back.

Everett  OCA# 1961  1961 Starfire  1971 Vista Cruiser AKA  "The Booger"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 21:27:57 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: All Bow to the Wisdom of Andy Green

I read Andy's tale of the differences between 194A and 194NA bulbs with a
chuckle today. Leave it to Andy, I thought, to expound on such obscure
things. I should have known better. 

I was out running errands in the '78 Delta tonight and it was raining. 
Thought I'd check out the look of the car with the parking lights on, in
the way he described the photo of his dad's '78. Darned if he wasn't right
on the money. The two front parking lights on each side *are* different
colors. One is a nice orangey amber, the other almost white. Why they
would spec 2 different bulbs in identical-looking side-by-side
applications is a mystery to me. My neighbors must have thought I was
goofy standing in the driveway in the rain looking at the car with the
lights on (if they didn't think that already). 

GM must have had designers paid by the light on this one. I also
discovered that the rear tailights are really strange: two 1157s on either
side that double as brake lights, but then there are also 2 small bulbs in
each outside corner of the lens: a 194 for a marker light, and a 168 that
is another brake light. Looks really cool when all are lit up. I also
recently discovered that the '78 Delta is different from the similar
looking '77 and '79 in not having a separate front side marker in it's own
hole in the fender; the '78's are sort of wrapped around the side of the
headlight bezels. GM was making lots of money then and could afford those
changes every year I suppose.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 18:39:15 -0700
From: karoe@us.ibm.com
Subject: Re: '70 Core Support / Grille

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:
>Keep in mind that the cable you find at the hood latch in a '70 is not a
>hood release, but an interior hood lock.

Thanks for the info on the hood lock !  I had little idea. In fact, the
cable (more like a single wire) is only about 45.7 cm. now. How and where
did it hook to the interior ?
Is the latch (with the hood lock ?) a separate piece from the 'latch
support' ?
Would it be possible to get the relatively same thickness wire and put it
back in operation ?
Also, and interestingly, does the "short arm" on the latch release itself
coincide with the hood lock option ? This release seems to be shorter (ie.
farther away from the bumper) than the '71 VC.

Kyle

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 18:00:13 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator output too high?

At 01:46 PM 12/1/98 -0500, you wrote:

14 volts is required to push (pull?) the electrolyte back out of the plates 
in the battery.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 19:02:15 EST
From: RPTW32@aol.com
Subject: Re: Made it in Magazine.

To any that receive Drag Racing Monthly Mag. the Dec. issue that covers the
NSCA
race at Stanton,Mi back in Sept. is featured. There is a picture of our cars
(-2 that were to right of pic edge) There were 6 of us that raced at this
event and several of us did fairly well in the $$ return paid out...
( I am farthest back in pic. - Orange w/black top - 69' .  Had a blast this
whole weekend and car ran consistant high 11's. Made over 23 passes that
weekend total
divided over 3 separate races (two classes - S/ET & DOT ). Nothing broke on
any of us and drove 158 miles home Sun. night (More fun driving up to event
then the ride home in the beast.)

There was multiple mention of our group that weekend as several times we were
stagged closely so they would see a bunch at once. Comments are often very
humerous.

Check it out.

Rgds,
Rob Thomas
69 442.
 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 21:10:20 -0500
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Re: Noise and vibration on 72 Supreme

Just my $.02. I realize that because the vibration is felt in the steering
wheel one might assume that the problem is in the front end.  It's not
always visibly apparent when the U joints are starting to go. Since the
tranny is bolted to the frame by the crossmember and the rear "floats" on
the suspension, the alignment of the driveshaft changes constantly,
especially during cornering. So with the car jacked up under the frame, the
U joints may appear to be solid, but if you were to jack it up under ther
rear (simulating the normal alignment of the driveshaft) you may see more
slop in the U joints than you would the other way.          I also read the
post by someone who told you to jack the car up and pry on the wheel top to
bottom to check for ball joint wear. I don't recall them mentioning that
this will only work if you have the car supported under the control arm.
Slip a 2 X 4 under the tire and lift. If you get more than about 1/4" of
movement, replacing the ball joints would be in order. I hope this is of
some help to you.
				R. Kevin Noon
				66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
				85 Delta 88 Royale Brougham

- ----------
> From: David Litke <dlitke@bewellnet.com>
> To: olds mailing list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Noise and vibration on 72 Supreme
> Date: Tuesday, December 01, 1998 5:04 AM
> 
> Hey all,
> 	You have all been so helpful in the past I had to ask one more 
time.  I
> have been fighting with a noise and vibration on my 72 Supreme for quite
a
> while.  The key symptoms are that the noise and vibration both disapear
> when turning right, but get a little worse when turning left.  The noise
> and vibration can be felt and heard at 30 MPH and above but gets worse
when
> speed is increased and is especially bad between 50 and 73 MPH.  The
noise
> and vibration also disapear when going down the highway and the highway
> dips and then peaks so that the body raises off the frame.  You can also
> feel the vibration through the steering wheel and accelerator pedal more
> than through the body of the car.  
> 
> As far as what I've done to solve the problem.  I replaced the center
link
> and idler arm because they were bad, that made a little difference in the
> vibration, but not a lot.  I took the two tires off that were out of
round
> and replaced them. And I replaced the inner right front bearing.
> 
> Does it sound like the right rear bearing is going out and if so why
would
> there be such a bad vibration?  I have checked the U-joints and they seem
> to be tight.  The exhaust is not hitting the body anywhere.  I am out of
> ideas.  If the driveshaft is out of balance why does the problem disapear
> when turning right?
> 
> Anyway  I am tired of replacing parts that aren't really bad and don't
fix
> the problem.  If anyone has some ideas or experiences 
> 
> Thanks in advance  David Litke  dlitke@bewellnet.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 22:12:58 -0500
From: dgerow@student.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: New Noise and Vibration

Hey all,

I missed the recent thread about noise and vibrations, but I have something 
along
that line.  2 days ago I got into the '71 Cutlass Supreme that I bought about 4
weeks ago.  Drove down the street and noticed a rather severe vibration as 
well.  I
can feel it in the steering well and such.  I don't get to drive the car 
everyday,
so it's hard to keep track of.  I didn't do anything to the car or change 
anything
except the oil.  I checked all wheels/tires/lugnuts and all is well.  I 
remember
when my C*ddy did this, it was the U-joints, but other than that....front 
end?  Any
thoughts?

I know this question is repetative, but like I said, I missed the first thread 
so:

dgerow@stonehill.edu

will get to me personally to bypass the list.
I'm away at college and don't have any of my tools or a place to work on my 
car, so
this is starting to bother me....you know how it is.

Thanks in advance,

Dan Gerow

'69 4-4-2
'71 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 22:03:53 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 buildup/info, Thanks.

In a message dated 12/1/98
 6:<BR56:<BR52 PM Central Standard Tim, b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu writes:> >> >
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson if you haven't seen it) so that works
>  
>  Can someone else please go to this site, go to the 442 section and see if
>  you are able to click on and enlarge ANY of the pictures without your
>  browser going south?  Whenever I try it Netscape Communicator ab-ends.


Worked fine for me, MS IE 4.0 and AOL 4.0

Cheers/Carron

hold fast...I'll try it with NN 3 (dum te dum te dum...hmmmm) Nope, works fine
with that one too. Could yours be bombed? could your ISP be overloaded?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 22:10:54 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: 455 buildup/info, Thanks.

I don't THINK my stuff is screwed.  Let's try this...can someone running NT
4.0 w/ Service Pak 3 and Netscape Communicator 4.05 try the link and
picture enlargement below?

At 09:03 PM 12/1/98 , you wrote:
>In a message dated 12/1/98
> 6:<BR56:<BR52 PM Central Standard Tim, b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu writes:>
>> >
>http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson if you haven't seen it) so that works
>>  
>>  Can someone else please go to this site, go to the 442 section and see if
>>  you are able to click on and enlarge ANY of the pictures without your
>>  browser going south?  Whenever I try it Netscape Communicator ab-ends.
>
>
>Worked fine for me, MS IE 4.0 and AOL 4.0
>
>Cheers/Carron
>
>hold fast...I'll try it with NN 3 (dum te dum te dum...hmmmm) Nope, works
fine
>with that one too. Could yours be bombed? could your ISP be overloaded?
> 
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 20:06:30 -0800
From: "HELROSS" <HELROSS@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: '62 Jetfire FS (fwd)

sold my  67 olds. no more e-mails   please

H. Ross

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 22:43:09 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rearend ratios

In a message dated 12/1/98 6:51:19 PM Eastern Standard Time, igor455@home.com
writes:

<< I agree.  With 3.23s and 26.5" tires,  I run about 2800 RPM.  A .67 (or
.69,
 depending on source, but no realistic diff) the 3.73 gears turn into about
 2.5 ratio.  You should be turning no more then 2500 rpm, unless your
 converter is slipping drastically.  What kind of a converter is it.  If it
 is stock, it should be a lock-up, making RPM even less.  I would like OD and
 4.10 posi. >>

you might be right, im not too sure of the factory tach in my car.  matter of
fact, the speedo is off about 6-7 mph, too!!  so im kinda guessing on those
figures.  i do know that its more than 2100, tho.   
jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 15:46:43 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: Better Horns?

As I was leafing through one of the 10 zillion cataloges that seem to pile
up around the throne I noticed a set of 5" Hella horns (for $69)... got me
to thinking I'd like to replace the horns on my '72 Cutlass with something
that will get people's attention real quick when they get too close.

So...

What are Hella horns?

$69 seems a little steep or is my age showing?

Other (reasonable) ideas for an attention getting set of horns?  (...  well
actually Karl if you read this don't hold back)

thanks,

jp

Jonathan Parke
mailto:jonparke@together.net

'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
(near the end of a 5 year frame off customization)

'60 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spider Veloce
(completely in pieces, perfect body, long term restoration)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 23:04:35 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: Better Horns?

I got three words for you - DUKES OF HAZZARD.

At 01:46 PM 12/1/98 , you wrote:
>As I was leafing through one of the 10 zillion cataloges that seem to pile
>up around the throne I noticed a set of 5" Hella horns (for $69)... got me
>to thinking I'd like to replace the horns on my '72 Cutlass with something
>that will get people's attention real quick when they get too close.
>
>So...
>
>What are Hella horns?
>
>$69 seems a little steep or is my age showing?
>
>Other (reasonable) ideas for an attention getting set of horns?  (...  well
>actually Karl if you read this don't hold back)
>
>thanks,
>
>jp
>
>Jonathan Parke
>mailto:jonparke@together.net
>
>'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
>(near the end of a 5 year frame off customization)
>
>'60 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spider Veloce
>(completely in pieces, perfect body, long term restoration)
> 
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 00:04:10 EST
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: 8.5" ten bolt

In a message dated 98-12-01 18:49:46 EST, you write:

<< Hello all,
  My 2 cents on the 8.5" ten bolt;
 I've seen plenty of stout cars running this rear at my local track. One
 was a 3700LB 76 Cutlass[455] that ran 11.1. This car had a junkyard posi
 with no high dollar parts. He had run it for years with no prob.
  This rear has the same size pinion shaft and bearings as the 12 bolt.
 It's very similar in design, with a 3/8" smaller ring gear.
 Dave Brode
 64 Cutlass >>
Don't get me wrong, I ran my 4:10 10 bolt 8.5 for 5 years, but the carrier
blew apart.  Not the pinion or ring gear or even bearings, the carrier did.
This is the second 10 bolt in 10 years that I have had the carrier totally
destroyed.  Thats the only reason I am going to a 12 bolt chevy that has alot
more meat on the carrier.

W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
12.149 @ 111MPH in the 1/4 with 1.7001 60 ft times
72 442 W-30 race rocket
view my W cars and other Oldsmobiles at
http://members.aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 23:17:26 EST
From: DrkSole96@aol.com
Subject: 73 Rear Quarters.

In the ad for C & M Classic Parts that was posted a couple of days ago, they
listed a rh rear quarter panel for a 73 Cutlass S, 442, H/O.  My question is,
is there a difference between the quarters for the Cutlass, and the Cutlass
Supreme?  I know that the roof line and rear windows are different, but are
the quarter panels?
Thanks,

DrkSole
73 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 00:12:36 -0600 
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
Subject: Olds TV Sighting

Hi folks,
           Last night while I was dubbing some promotional spots for
some "exciting" CBS programming, (yes, that IS sarcasm you smell...) I
noticed a shot of a '70 442 convertible in the upcoming episode of
"Buddy Faro".  (Some stupid Hollywood-type movie set scene with a bunch
of guys with Uzis shooting up the place.)  The show airs Friday, Dec.
4th at 8:00 PM Central / 9:00 PM Eastern.  QUICK shot, I had to freeze
the tape to get any detail.  Black on black, looked like a 1970 grill.


Later,

Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
Columbus, MS 	       1987 442

http://www.442.com/newman.html             1987 442
http://www.442.com/newmantape.html      Centennial Tape Ad

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 00:14:05 -0600 
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
Subject: Olds List Centennial Video

Hi folks,
              If you've already ordered, thanks again.  (Shameless plug
follows.)  This would make a great holiday gift for that Olds fan on
your list.    :-) 

             I've worked in television for a almost eleven years, and
produced my fair share of weddings, fraternity rush videos, and high
school graduation videos.  During the Olds Centennial last August, some
of the list members took their cameras, and shot a load of video of all
the beautiful cars on display.  Since I didn't get to attend, I
volunteered to dub their raw video and edit it together into an Olds
e-mail list video scrapbook.  Tape was mastered on DVC, (Digital Video
Cassette) so you don't experience the video generation loss like you do
when dubbing VHS to VHS.  This is not a tape of corporate self-praise,
and I'm not affiliated with Olds, GM, or any other group that produced
tapes.  This is strictly a car video for car guys and ladies.  There's
no narration:  every shot is edited to music.  It contains 16 songs,
including Kathy Mattea's "455 Rocket" and Jackie Brenston and the Delta
Cats' "Rocket 88".  Total running time is 1:01:55.  You'll see some cars
owned by list members, as well as a few list members themselves.  (Greg
Beaulieu, Bryce Smith, Jim Chermack, plus Helen Earley and James
Walkinshaw, co-authors of "Setting the Pace".  Plus numerous shots of
Linda Vaughn, Miss Hurst Golden Shifter.)  Cost is $20.00 U.S., personal
check or money order.  This includes postage.  If you do decide to
order, please include your e-mail address with your order so I can
contact you when I ship your video.  (All orders go out the day payment
is received, except Saturday.)  Snail-mail address follows, and I look
forward to hearing from anyone interested.  If you have any questions,
please e-mail me privately to keep list traffic down.  Thanks for your
time.

Doug Newman        OCA # 30311
22 Ridge Road
Columbus, MS   39701

1987 442

newmand@wcbi.com

http://www.442.com/newman.html             1987 442
http://www.442.com/newmantape.html      Centennial Tape Ad

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 00:30:06 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds Oil Filters

Joe/List,

You got it right -- PF-24 is the Olds version, PF-25 is for the C-words.  Now,
does anyone have any size info on the long-discontinued PF-7?  It was used on
the Toronado engines, and is cast into the oil filter housings I use on the
race cars.  A PF-24 will fit it nicely, but I'll bet there was some difference
from the PF-30/PF-24 somewhere...........

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 00:16:07 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Heater Core

I took the heater core out of my 72 442. It looks to have been replaced at
sometime because it is in very good shape. The name brand on the side says
"Henderson". Would this be an aftermarket unit? Also would it be better to
replace it even though it does not leak and appears to be new?

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 00:12:33 -0600
From: senator@mail.chorus.net
Subject: SSIII's FS

Ok guys, I know I've put this ad here before, but I have a set of SSIII's
in my garage I need to get rid of.  At this point, they're free to a good
home.  They have all trim rings and little trim-trapezoid thingies.
They're painted black (previous owner, don't blame me) and have 2 center
caps between them.  They're taking up too much space, and I really don't
want to take them to the recycler.
Oh yeah, in digest mode, and I'm kinda behind, so e-mail me at
senator@mail.chorus.net if you're interested.  I live in Madison, WI.

Bob
'78 CS

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 01:10:18 -0500
From: "mike mavodones" <mmavodo1@maine.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator output too high?

12v.  "car" batteries measure 12.6 volts when charged,  at normal temps. 
	A battery will not charge if it is presented with less than one volt 
OVER
its 'float' voltage. In other words, a battery will charge to about one
volt LESS than whatever the charge voltage is.
	To measure alternator or generator performance, go to the battery
terminals with a digital VOM (volt-ohm meter). With the engine off, check
battery voltage-should be 12.6 for a fully charged battery. If your battery
isn't reading 12.6 volts, charge it or replace it with a battery that does
read out at 12.6. You MUST have a fully charged battery to test the
charging system properly.
	Now start the engine. At idle, a reading higher than engine-off voltage
should be obtained. Now rev the engine to a steady speed of 1500-2000 rpm.
Voltage should be minimum (or nominal) 13.6 volts. If this is all you're
getting its time to find the bad connections or get a rebuild. 14 to 14.9 
volts is the correct acceptable range.
	This is the method outlined in the "Interstate Battery Clinic and 
Training
Manual".	
	Mike
	86 442
ke  
- ----------
> From: Ed Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Alternator output too high?
> Date: Monday, November 30, 1998 8:15 PM
> 
> What you are using is more a matter of amperage than voltage. You don't
send
> 140 volts to a house that has more appliances, you send 110 volts with
more
> amperage to handle the load. That's why the higher the cold cranking amps
> the battery has, the better. In other words, 16 volts is not better than
14
> volts to run 12 volt accessories. Which brings me to say . . . I am not
> really sure why an alternator puts out 14 volts. I've expended my limited
> electrical theory expertise. Will someone pick up the ball from here.
Olds
> content: Oldmobiles have alternators.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> 
> ><< 14 volts is about right. >>
> >
> >     Isn't it because you are "USING" voltage, and since some is "lost"
it
> >needs to charge at a higher rate to keep the battery at 12 volts?  
Dorian
> >
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Dec 1998 22:46:22 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Heater Core

At 12:16 AM 12/2/98 -0600, you wrote:
>I took the heater core out of my 72 442. It looks to have been replaced at
>sometime because it is in very good shape. The name brand on the side says
>"Henderson". Would this be an aftermarket unit? Also would it be better to
>replace it even though it does not leak and appears to be new?
>
You've got it out, put in a new one.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 00:08:06 -0700
From: "David Litke" <dlitke@bewellnet.com>
Subject: Noise and vibration on 72 Cutlass supreme (new info)

Gary,
	Thanks for the reply. Those are good ideas.  Unfortunately I have
eliminated most of them as possibilities.  I had all four tires spin
balanced and that is when I found that the front two were out of round so I
swapped them to the back, no change, take them comepletely off, no change. 


On to the front end.  I changed the drag link and the Idler arm because
they were bad.  That got rid of all the slop in the steering and helped the
vibration and noise some but it is still very bad.  Now the car drives
straight on a level road, first one I ever owned that did that.  I replaced
the left front shock because it was totally shot.  That also helped the car
drive straight but did not help the vibration.  

So now, on the front we now have two speed balanced, nicely round tires.  
A new shock, new drag link and idler arm and new sway bar links\bushings,
and last of all, a new right front inner bearing.  And just in case you
were wondering all four tie rod ends were very tight.  

As far as bushings on the control arm is there anything I should look for
as far as wear?  They look decent but not great.  I can see where the car
was aligned because there are new shims on the upper control arm.  I still
can't understand why when I turn right the vibration disapears.  

Thanks for all your help


- --Original Message--
Date: Tue, 1 Dec 1998 09:17:01 -0500 
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Noise and vibration on 72 Supreme

David;
You said you changed 2 out of round tires. What were their locations? You
didn't mention the simplest of attempts, that being a complete 4 wheel high
speed balance. Since you had 2 out of round tires, Were they both Front,
Rear, or One each? I'm assuming their modern radials. What type of wear did
they exhibit. Since you stated it starts in the steering wheel than
progresses through the body, this indicates your focus should be the front
end.

1. Visually inspect for bent rim on Right front. (will detect during
balance, check left too). Or jack front up and fashion some kind of stand
with a pointer, (couple bricks with a screw driver laying on top will do)
Place the tip aprox. 1/8" from rim lip side and spin tire slowly. Does the
clearance between screw driver and rim change during rotation? While you
have tire off ground, grasp top and bottom and see if you can flex wheel
assembly by pulling and pushing the opposing locations in/out. Movement or
slop may indicate a worn Ball joints. Grasp tire front and rear. repeat
flexing. Slop, suspect some aspect of front steering link that you haven't
changed. Do you have a lot of steering wheel turn before car responds?
Could
be warn steering box. If your getting slop in either test, also have a
second person watching the A-arm bushings to make sure bushing wear isn't
allowing a-arms to move relative to there mounts, see # 2.

2. Check all front suspension for bushing wear and/or deterioration. They
may seem stout enough at car rest yet be compressing as speed increases
throughing of steering geometry off. This will also effect odd tread wear.

3. If you have an even across the tread wear but yet the tread is
scalloped,
Look at shocks. Remove and hand test. Should take reasonable pressure to
collapse, yet expand slowly when released. No sign of oil on exterior. Also
inspect Sway Bar and bushings if installed.

4. could be faulty breaking components. Out of round rotor or drum. Broken
return springs. (unsure of your car year).

5. You haven't mentioned any recent alignment but did mention changing
"some" link components. You may have the toe in/out incorrect. Does car go
straight on level straight road? Or does it drift right/left? This by self
wouldn't create vibration except with say warn a-arm bushings or ball
joints
I believe.

Well that's a few suggestions. I'm sure others could add more... Good Luck.
G.

- - -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

ICQ# 5209322 = "CC-IROC-SS"
Personal ICQ Communication Center:
http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322

Custom Conversion Proto-type:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
Project Questions To:
mailto:cc-iroc-ss@CC-IROC-SS.com

The CC-IROC-SS Project Delphi Forum:
http://forums.delphi.com/m/main.asp?sigdir=CC_IROC_SS

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com


- - -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of David Litke
Sent: Tuesday, December 01, 1998 5:04 AM
To: olds mailing list
Subject: Noise and vibration on 72 Supreme


Hey all,
	You have all been so helpful in the past I had to ask one more time.  I
have been fighting with a noise and vibration on my 72 Supreme for quite a
while.  The key symptoms are that the noise and vibration both disapear
when turning right, but get a little worse when turning left.  The noise
and vibration can be felt and heard at 30 MPH and above but gets worse when
speed is increased and is especially bad between 50 and 73 MPH.  The noise
and vibration also disapear when going down the highway and the highway
dips and then peaks so that the body raises off the frame.  You can also
feel the vibration through the steering wheel and accelerator pedal more
than through the body of the car.

As far as what I've done to solve the problem.  I replaced the center link
and idler arm because they were bad, that made a little difference in the
vibration, but not a lot.  I took the two tires off that were out of round
and replaced them. And I replaced the inner right front bearing.

Does it sound like the right rear bearing is going out and if so why would
there be such a bad vibration?  I have checked the U-joints and they seem
to be tight.  The exhaust is not hitting the body anywhere.  I am out of
ideas.  If the driveshaft is out of balance why does the problem disapear
when turning right?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 02:02:56 EST
From: Ralllye350@aol.com
Subject: Re:  Heater Core

In a message dated 12/1/98 10:12:36 PM, you wrote:

>I took the heater core out of my 72 442. It looks to have been replaced at
>
>sometime because it is in very good shape. The name brand on the side says
>
>"Henderson". Would this be an aftermarket unit? Also would it be better to
>
>replace it even though it does not leak and appears to be new?
>
>
>
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
 It probably says Harrison, which is the OEM manufacture. I agree with the guy
that said, if you got it out might as well replace it, but if your strapped
for cash take it to a radiator shop and have them test it at 20 lbs. psi. And
if you get a new one be sure to compare the bends of the heater fittings with
the old one, because some slight differences in the bends can make it a pain
in the butt to install it.

Craig Rose

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 04:46:18 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: (Fwd) this is a hoot

All, please excuse me for sending a non- subject related post to the list, but 
here 
is a link that all of you should check out..!!  It's a real mind twister...!!


http://www.cjta.net/special/index.htm

Michael........................

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 06:47:01 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: SSIII's FS

Respond to senator@mail.chorus.net if interested...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	senator@mail.chorus.net
Subject: SSIII's FS

Ok guys, I know I've put this ad here before, but I have a set of SSIII's
in my garage I need to get rid of.  At this point, they're free to a good
home.  They have all trim rings and little trim-trapezoid thingies.
They're painted black (previous owner, don't blame me) and have 2 center
caps between them.  They're taking up too much space, and I really don't
want to take them to the recycler.
Oh yeah, in digest mode, and I'm kinda behind, so e-mail me at
senator@mail.chorus.net if you're interested.  I live in Madison, WI.

Bob
'78 CS

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 05:28:02 -0600
From: bloom9@juno.com (C K)
Subject: wheels

Hello all, I was wondering, what years did Olds make a factory mag that
resembled the SS111's? I've run upon a set that I'm not sure if they fall
into the '70 to '72 years range. Did Olds make a version into the middle
and later 70's time frame? Perhaps even into the 80's? Thanks for any
info.
Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 06:32:36 -0500
From: Bob Dale <bctad5@toolcity.net>
Subject: Re: Holley Pro-jection forsale?

AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 11/25/98, 11:42:04 AM, oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> writes:
> <<   Sounds like you have very similar set-up. Cam is exactly the
> same.
> What part of the country you in ?>>
> NY, what gears do you have im running 355:1,have you ran at the
> track?do you
> have NOS

   I just recently purchased the car, has 3:36 gears, not ready for
track yet, no NOS and will likely not have.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Dec 1998 08:15:34 EST
From: DUKEOFBLUZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: 73 Rear Quarters.

i thought the ad was for a 74,, but anyway,, i would think the side of the
quarter would be the same,, but the top would be different,,,  rear window
came back closer to the trunk on the 442, "S", and H/Os then they did on a
Supreme
hope this helps:
Jeffrey T. Fieldsend
Board of Director, OCC, Oldsmobile Cutlass Coupes 73-77
http://members.aol.com/cutlascoup/index.html
Member : Oldsmobile Club of America
Member : Hurst/Olds Club of America
Member : Classic Chevy International

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Dec 1998 09:15:16 -0500
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: Better Horns?

Jonathan Parke Asks Some Questions, and Dad Blam It,
He Deserves Some Answers:

> As I was leafing through one of the 10 zillion cataloges that seem to pile
> up around the throne I noticed a set of 5" Hella horns (for $69)... got me
> to thinking I'd like to replace the horns on my '72 Cutlass with something
> that will get people's attention real quick when they get too close.
> 
> So...
> 
> What are Hella horns?

Well, Hella is a brand.  I'm sure you've seen their automotive lighting
products.  They also make auto air horns.  In a previous life, I ran
euro-style Hella headlights on *my* long-term Italian restoration project,
as well as these air horns.  It's comprised of a compressor with hoses running
to two horns.  Yes, they are loud.  I dunno if they are $69 loud, although
I think when I bought mine (c. 1984) I paid somewhere close to $50, which
makes $69 in 1998 a better deal.

Another thing:  I remember there being a very small but noticeable delay
between my depressing the horn button and hearing the blast, due to
the air compressor spin-up I'd imagine.  Perhaps if I ran shorter lines
to the horns, this would decrease...

> Other (reasonable) ideas for an attention getting set of horns?  (...  well
> actually Karl if you read this don't hold back)

Now for a cheaper alternative, one that I used back in the 70's on my
old-but-venerated Catalina.  Granted, after doing a 5 year resto on your CS,
it might not be the best looking one under the hood, but:

I had picked up a coupla 6v horns from an ancient Pontiac in a boneyard --
natch, any 6v car horns will do, I just mentioned it because I also liberated
a cool Poncho emblem from the car that I mounted on the Catalina's
glovebox -- I took it off when the Cat met it's untimely demise;
still have it today.  But I digress...

Running one of these antique 6v horns in a 12v system will do one of two
things:

1.  It will burn out.

2.  It will sound very, very loud.

And yes, it could perform 2. until such time as it goes to 1.

But, after burning out the first one, the second one lasted for the
rest of my ownership of the car.  I also kept one of the 12v horns
attached, in case the 6v one burnt out.

I know in the 90's it'll be nigh impossible to find an old 6v car
in a yarde du junque; but, if you do, it is a much cheaper alternative
(and more Uhmurikin, Dangitall!) to the Hellas.



Tim Churchill  tchurchill@draper.com  OCA #30327  Framingham, MA
- ----------------------------------------------------------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, new a.k.a 'Old Gold'
'98 VW Passat GLS Wagon, a.k.a. 'der Kinderwagen'

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1637
*********************************

