Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1627


oldsmobile-digest     Thursday, November 26 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1627



Re: 455 Intake
Re: DRL's
Re: Newbe
Re: Newbe
Re:493 stroker
Re: auto vs 4 speed  debate 
Happy Thanksgiving
Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400
Re: 455 Buildup
Re: Pics of my 80 Olds 442
Re: Why do you hate
Just got pictures of my '68 442 convertible project scanned...
Pre-84 Online Bluebook
RE: Pre-84 Online Bluebook
Re: Bondo:Friend or Foe?
CC-IROC-SS
Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400
W-27
Re: He scores again!!
Re: 455 Buildup
Re: Vista Cruiser's similar cousins... anybody?
A short wonderful story
Re: Hey noslo67!!
Re: New
Re:VC, Sportwagons
Re: Vista Cruiser's similar cousins...  anybody?
Bad rap
Re: 455 Buildup 
Engine TICK (noise), HELP ASAP
Re: Bad rap
Re: Bad rap
Re: electric vs. automatic choke
Thanks
Re: Engine TICK (noise), HELP ASAP
Re: Engine TICK (noise), HELP ASAP
71 442 Stripes location
Re: 4-speed, TH-400 Vs. TH-350
Re: electric vs. automatic choke
Re: Engine TICK (noise), HELP ASAP
Re: W-27
Re: New(olds motor)
2 Speed to TH350 swap
Re: 4-speed, TH-400 Vs. TH-350
Re: Bondo:Friend or Foe?
Re: Newbe
Re: New
Re: Engine TICK (noise), HELP ASAP
Re: 2 Speed to TH350 swap
Re: Bad rap
Re: car wont turn off
Re: Engine TICK (noise), HELP ASAP
Re: Engine TICK (noise), HELP ASAP
Re: 2 Speed to TH350 swap
Re: Engine TICK (noise), HELP ASAP
72 442 Fender Emblem location
Thanksgiving
Re: Keyless Entry Troubleshooting
original upholstery (fwd)
Re: Engine TICK (noise), HELP ASAP
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1623
Re: Bondo:Friend or Foe?
Re: Engine TICK (noise), HELP ASAP

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 16:34:51 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
Subject: Re: 455 Intake

have one I think it is off a 71 455...make an offer and remember shipping I
am in Kansas City...KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: DrkSole96@aol.com <DrkSole96@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, November 24, 1998 9:44 PM
Subject: Re: 455 Intake


>In a message dated 98-11-24 12:25:28 EST, you write:
>
><<
> Does anyone have a non-egr cast intake for a 455? Email me with price
> and availability.
>
> Thanks
>
> Stephen Hoover
> Dallas, Texas
> '70 Supreme
> . >>
>
>Well, I don't know your e-mail address, but I've got a 4-barrel intake off
a
>67 425 if you're interested.  It's just been taken out of service, and is
very
>greasy/crusty, and needs a good cleaning.   Does anyone know the going rate
>for these?
>thanks,
>DrkSole
>73 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 14:47:00 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: DRL's

>> Besides, we're talking about a new, full size crewcab dually
>> here - something only slightly smaller than my house.
>
> Be careful there Joe.  I have a full size van that people regularly
> pull out in front of.  It might have something to do with the blue
> paint because I don't have that problem with the Sebring Yellow 
> Olds. Well, at least so far I haven't. (knocking on wood and looking 
> for a rabbit's foot as I say this)  I hope your dually is a 
> noticeable color or [you] may get an unpleasant surprise.

I was debating how much to post but figured with the holiday weekend
coming up in the U.S. and all the driving that entails, I might as
well go ahead with this. If this is construed as a sermon, understand 
that it's not directed _at_ anyone.

First of all, let's stop talking about DRLs being some sort of freedom
of choice issue; their use is no more an infringement of your rights
than the requirement to stop at a stop sign or drive on the right side
of the road. Driving is a privilege, not a right, of course, plus you
already have a bunch of lights on your car, including red ones at the 
back which go on whenever you step on the brake, whether you like it 
or not. DRLs happen to be on the front, that's all. Deal with it.

Secondly, their role is to allow you to be seen, no more and no less.
At 70% normal brightness, they aren't even intended for _you_ to see
with, just that other people will see you.

Here ends the statement; the rest of this gets depressing and if you
want to skip to the next message here, be my guest.

In 1993 I was driving my '72 LeMans down a suburban arterial street
on a Sunday afternoon. The car was clean, shiny, bright red, and the
weather was sunny and clear. A 16-year-old girl who'd had her license
for all of six weeks pulled out in front of me with an '86 Pontiac 
6000. She obviously did not see me, perhaps did not look in my 
direction, and my car broadsided hers and rolled it against a concrete 
light post. She and I were both wearing seat belts, but while I was 
able to walk away, she was killed.

This is something I think about every day, and is not something I
generally talk about in public, but this whole DRL thing is about
avoiding certain accidents, such as the one I had. The Olds list
has posts from time to time about stupid things other drivers did,
and assorted fender-benders and scrapes we had, but when the other
driver is _dead_ afterwards, it changes your life no matter what.
I was exonerated, a cop said they would have ticketed _her_, a
lawsuit against me was dismissed, and my insurance company paid
every penny of the expenses, but the memory will stay with me.
My oldest son is 5, and when he gets his license he'll receive
a folder of news clippings from 1993 to read.

This is real life. Of course I would give anything to have that day
back, and circumstances are such that DRLs may well have made no
difference at all in this particular case. But when their only role is
to _try_ and avoid accidents like this one, I have a hard time trying
to understand peoples' reluctance.

Let me say it again: I'm not trying to play Safety Nazi and demand 
that people _must_ use these things; if Joe or Lou or anybody wants to 
disconnect theirs, of course they can do so. It's just that I can't 
understand peoples' objections to these lights, and in particular if I 
was driving something big enough to qualify for its own ZIP code, I'd 
want to give people every chance of getting out of my way.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 16:57:03 -0600
From: "noslo67" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Re: Newbe

Matt Cremean wrote:

> >    The car seems to run quite well as is except for not hookin up the
> > 14s well. Traction and wheelhop are two areas I could use some advice
> > for sure.
>
> Then, if you have the money and the Cutlass isn't really a daily
> driver, i'd suggest some Mikey Thompson drag radials. If you don't want
> to go that expensive, try some BFG Radial T/As. Some 255/60s should do
> the trick. Possibly a set of ladder bars would do you well also.

Bob and Matt,

Never heard of M/T drag radials, I've heard of their E.T. Streets, but I don't
think they are radials. I know BFG makes some. Are you confused or am I
uninformed. Anybody have any experience on hooking up with street/drag tires.
I can't get mine to hook up at all on street tires. Tried old bias N-50's and
275/60 BFG Comp TA's with all hope going up in smoke. I am thinking about
trying the BFG drag radials but wanted some opinions from people that have
already tried them first. My '67 Cutlass convertible hooks great with 29 x
10.5 Goodyear slicks at the strip, but what street car wouldn't.
If ladder bars are a little extreme (they would be for me and my street car)
try a set of Competition Engineering traction bars. I put a set on my '67
Cutlass convertible. They didn't help the tires from spinning much, but they
are mainly to stop wheel-hop from what I've read after I bought them (of
course). I never had wheel-hop before I put them on so I can't really say if
they do that well or not.
Part number from Summit is CFE-2101 - $127.00. Listed for 68-72?? a-body but
fit my 67 perfect.
I've got a 455/400 combo 12/10 bolt "O" posi w/3.90's with TRW 10.25 pistons
Mondello street/strip "C" heads a ."523/.544" lift and 280 292 dur. cam,
Torker, 850 dp Holley, MSD ignition box and dist., Hooker S/C 1.75" headers,
2.5" Flowmaster pipes and mufflers, TCI Street Fighter convertor
(3200-3500rpm). Trying to find some tires that will hook.
My convert. also has three different sets of mounting holes on the frame for
the top links from the rear-end. My chassis guy told to put them on the
highest hole to try to get the car to hook, now they are in the middle holes.
Is this something special or are they all that way?

Shane Gibreal
'67 Cutlass convertible
'67 Cutlass Supreme - drag

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 18:02:35 -0500
From: "jlabay" <jlabay@neo.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Newbe

You want to go with Mickey Thompson ET streets. They hook exceptionally
well.  Tried the BFG drag radials, as did my friends and we didn't like
them. Overall better traction and hookup with the ET Streets.

Jason Labay


>
>Never heard of M/T drag radials, I've heard of their E.T. Streets, but I
don't
>think they are radials. I know BFG makes some. Are you confused or am I
>uninformed. Anybody have any experience on hooking up with street/drag
tires.
>I can't get mine to hook up at all on street tires. Tried old bias N-50's
and
>275/60 BFG Comp TA's with all hope going up in smoke. I am thinking about
>trying the BFG drag radials but wanted some opinions from people that have
>already tried them first. My '67 Cutlass convertible hooks great with 29 x

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 18:08:21 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: Re:493 stroker

Hello,
 Donny was asked for opinions on the 493 stroker. I think the rod/stoke
ratio is to "steep" to consider the Buick rods. I think one would be
better off to use BB ch*vy aftermarket 6.8" rods, as opposed to the 6.6"
Buicks. People are using the common 6.8" ch*vy rod in the 500 Caddy, and
Ford 460. The 2.2" rod pin size on the ch*evy rod would allow for more
stroke increase than the Buick would, with it's 2.25" size. 
 If you're looking for big inches, you could use the ch*ev rods, and
bore the Olds +.125, and go as far as a 4.53"[4.25"+.300=4.55"] stroke
to get 514".
 The ch*v 6.8" rods should only raise the cost a few hundred bucks over
that of the modified Buick rods.

Dave Brode 
64 Cutlass 461"[wish it had a big stroker]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 18:14:37 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: auto vs 4 speed  debate 

Having grown up in the 60s with a dragstrip about 2 miles up the road, a
lot of the locals would go up there to blow down the 1/4.  Since Iwas
really capable of good times in my 6 cylinder, then 283, then 302, I was
not a participant but a spectator.  At the time it seemed that all the
fast cars were running 4 speeds with one notable exception.  The only
tranny the 4 speed guys actually didn't like going against was the
Torqueflite.  The general agreement was that the 4 speed cars (with
excellent drivers) were superior  to the automatics other than Mopar's
A/T.  Can't personally vouch for this, but this comment was made by more
than one guy at the track.  Personally, I like a 4/5/6 speed as I like
selecting my own gears and rowing my way around town.  But then I don't
drive in a lot of traffic jams generally.  It just seems more sporty to
me I guess.  Have to admit that the A/T has advanced a lot since the
60s.  The old 2 speed 'Glide trans worked but they sure seemed lousy
compared to the 3 speed turbohydramatics when they came out.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 18:09:32 -0500
From: "Steve C" <cutlass@citlink.net>
Subject: Happy Thanksgiving

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE189E.C0CB4940
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Happy Thanksgiving guys talk to you soon be off for a little while


Steve=20
=20
1985 Olds 442

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE189E.C0CB4940
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Happy Thanksgiving guys talk =
to you soon=20
be off for a little while</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT></STRONG>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT></STRONG>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Steve </FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>1985 Olds=20
442</FONT></STRONG></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE189E.C0CB4940--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 18:22:08 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400

OK gang, here's my take on this thread:

For my SCCA autocross Cutlass I'm going to go with a close-ratio 4-speed
unless I can find an aftermarket 3-speed that would suit my needs.  In most of
our events we can negotiate the entire course in second gear, but there is
that rare occaision that third would be used for a short section.  The reason
that we don't use an automatic is we have to use a non-lockup torque
converter, and this would mean less acceleration due to the converter
slippage.  With a manual we can employ an ultra-light flywheel/clutch/pressure
plate setup and get the acceleration as quickly as possible, which is
extremely important in autocross.  The weight factor is also important, only
have to weigh 3000 lbs and any more than that is just more the 350 has to drag
around (weighed without driver).

On the other hand, when I build a drag-only car I'll probably go with a
TH-400.  They aren't too hard to find, tons of parts available form the
aftermarket, and installation is a snap since the car I'm planning to build
came equipped with them.  I know it'll hold up to the 455+ c.i. engine I plan
to use.

Now I have considered putting a manual in my 70 C/S SX when I customize it
(nothing radical, more deception that flash) but I haven't decided that yet.
Since the C/S's didn't come with a manual, it would certainly be interesting
to watch people look at it and find out just how much they know about
Oldsmobiles:

"Wow, this one's got a 4-speed!"
"Yeah, I had a friend with one, they did a lot of these back then."

(sound of real Olds experts snickering in the background)

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
ks7racing@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 18:35:50 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: 455 Buildup

>     Jim, your building a 455 I assume? I am building a 403, and since the

Yes, I am building a 455.
>cams are the same, I think I can help some (and offer my opinion on others)
I
>would talk to a "speed shop" about the valve springs, depending on what cam

My question about valve springs refers to the re-use of them along with cam
with stock lift or under .5 inch.  In
several previous rebuilds I have simply reused valve springs without a
second thought.  Should I get them checked out or assume they are good since
they worked great up until now?

>you are going to put in. They SHOULD call the cam company and ask what they
>recommend. Valve springs are matched to the cam, and for good reason. You
>don't want valve float at low RPM's. I am putting in a dual pattern (good
idea
>if running restrictive exhaust, short of duals, you are, plus, supposed
better
>gas mileage than stock!) Something like .486 lift..I can get the specs if
you
>want...supposedly the biggest you will want to go with stock convertor.
Power
>band of the cam starts around 1500, and goes to 3500+ without looking at
the
>specs.
>     Since you are talking passing power, I would forget a higher stall
>converter..less mileage, more transmission wear. Stalls are good for taking
>off..getting the motor into it's torque/hp curve before you leave the
>line...once you are moving, not much, if any, difference.
>      Someone mentioned headers..this is my pet peeve...I hate them. People
>ALWAYS have problems with leaks, rust, incorrect fit, impossible to get to
>plugs, etc. Also, I asked on 2 different lists, if anyone had gone from
true
>dual exhaust to headers, and had a time slip from the track to prove it was
>faster with headers. Surprise, no one did. You look at header literature
and
>they claim anywhere from 15-30 hp gains on the motor. I would be willing to
>bet, since THEY don't mention it, is that gain is going from single exhaust
to
>headers..I bet that the difference from true dual to headers is quite
small,
>otherwise more car makers, (like GM) would have used them on their
performance
>cars in the late 60's early 70's. Just my ideas, and if you want any
>cam/spring specs or numbers, feel free to e-mail me.  Dorian
>
I sometimes think headers can be overrated myself.  For the power gain they
seem hardly worth the trouble.  The headers on my '63 Chevy are a rare case.
They are ceramic coated, $20 header gaskets and sound killer under the hood!
I also managed to get the headers in my '71 Ford pickup to seal as well but
it to a few times to get it to seal well, but now they work fine.  I don't
want headers for my Olds because 1)not worth the hassle 2) don't know if
they make them for my car 3) if they did I would probably have lift my
engine just to get them in and 4) do not want to spend the cash when I have
two perfectly functional exhaust manifolds.  Here is a thought...how about
trying to port the exhaust manifolds.  Probably too hard.  Just a thought.
Thanks Dorian, I appreciate your input.

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 18:42:42 -0500
From: "jlabay" <jlabay@neo.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Pics of my 80 Olds 442

It has the stock 350 motor. 3A heads and about 94K miles now. Passes the
smog tests fine :-)

Jason Labay

jason shreve wrote:

> Nice looking car.  What size engine does it have.
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 18:46:54 -0500
From: "jlabay" <jlabay@neo.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Why do you hate

I have looked around...for the past 20 or so years I can remember being
around my family's towing business. Olds by far tops the GM makes in our
yard. I got my 72 Supreme and 75 H/O out of our salvageyard. They were left
abandoned on the street and towed by the city police.

Jason Labay

jason shreve wrote:

> QUICK where is this Junkyard????  I would sure like to find one with an
> abundance of Oldsmobiles.  I have yet to find one with more Olds than
> other GM's.  I think you should actualy look around before claiming
> that.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 18:52:35 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Just got pictures of my '68 442 convertible project scanned...

... and would be happy to e-mail and discuss with anyone interested.

Please e-mail privately and I'll send over, probably after Gobble Gobble Day.

C.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 16:51:30 -0700
From: "Fred Orcutt" <f_m_o@email.msn.com>
Subject: Pre-84 Online Bluebook

Anyone know of an online source for Blue Book info on vehicles more than 15
years old??

Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 19:28:15 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Pre-84 Online Bluebook

www.kbb.com

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com
 

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Fred Orcutt
Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 1998 6:52 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Pre-84 Online Bluebook


Anyone know of an online source for Blue Book info on vehicles more than 15
years old??

Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 19:30:31 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: Bondo:Friend or Foe?

Sound interesting...waterproof.  One problem, will the aluminum react with
steel body?  Bondo friend or foe?...Moot point, bondo is necessary unless
you want to use lead to fill.

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
>well to add my 2 cents to this thread I use USC (united states chemical)
all
>metal it is a polyester filler with aluminum added to it it is water proof
>no absorption never had any problems with it...KK

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 19:44:32 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: CC-IROC-SS

The Couse Custom IROC-SS has finally arrived at it's new home. All please be
advised to update your current links both personal and site affixed. The
link is not case sensitive.

http://www-CC-IROC-SS.com

Tomorrow, the most thankful day of the year, shall find my prayers thanking
all of you that have, and will, have a part in the future of this project.
May everyone and all theirs have a great Thanks Giving Day.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
(518) 622-0376
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

ICQ# 5209322 = "CC-IROC-SS"
Personal ICQ Communication Center:
http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322

Custom Conversion Proto-type:
CC-IROC-SS-#00001 =  "Quincy"
http://members.tripod.com/CC_IROC_SS/
Soon to be: www.CC-IROC-SS.com

The CC-IROC-SS Project Delphi Forum:
http://forums.delphi.com/m/main.asp?sigdir=CC_IROC_SS

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 20:27:40 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400

- -----Original Message-----
Date: Tuesday, November 24, 1998 11:46 AM
:I am going to step into this one clear up to my neck. A properly driven
four
:speed (or 5 or 6) will always be quicker than a 3 speed automatic.
Automatics
:are for people who lack the skills to actually shift efficiently.

- ---->Actually they're for those who use carbureted bongs and need hands
available.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 19:40:40 -0800
From: steven@purplemonkey.com (Steven Saraceno)
Subject: W-27

I give UP. Where are the codes for the gear ratio on a w-27 rear end.  I
looked where you would normally find them on a '70 but can't find it (I
've found them on other '70s).  I believe it should have a code of SV
3:23 SX 3:42 or SZ 3:91.  I see the part number and even an L and R for
assembly reference but no code.

Also does anyone have any hints on how to pull off the aluminum cover. I
took the bolts off but the sealant is strong and I don't want to damage
the aluminum.

Steven Saraceno
70 442 W-30 Convertible
OCA 021442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 19:39:36 -0600
From: bloom9@juno.com (C K)
Subject: Re: He scores again!!

Believe it or not, $300.
Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass

On Tue, 24 Nov 1998 21:16:33 -0500 "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
writes:
>How much? How Much !
> Great find man. Give yourself a big pat on the back...
>
>> ----------
>

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 20:45:34 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 Buildup

In a message dated 11/25/98 3:37:03 PM Pacific Standard Time,
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net writes:

<< My question about valve springs refers to the re-use of them along with cam
 with stock lift or under .5 inch.  In
 several previous rebuilds I have simply reused valve springs without a
 second thought.  Should I get them checked out or assume they are good since
 they worked great up until now? >>

     I would. For the amount it costs to have them checked, I would think it
better to make sure they won't fail, taking everything else along with them!
Stock lift you may not have to worry about it, after dealing with mine, I
think that would be the way to go. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 17:45:55 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Vista Cruiser's similar cousins... anybody?

At 02:16 PM 11/25/98 -0600, you wrote:
>"This wagon features Buick's distinctive Skyroof, with three glass
>panels in the raised roof above the rear compartment."
>
>Does this sound messed up to anybody else?

VERY :(

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 19:55:58 -0800
From: steven@purplemonkey.com (Steven Saraceno)
Subject: A short wonderful story

Thought I'd also mention how I joined OCA at least 8 years ago knowing
one day I would own an Oldsmobile.  Well when I got my OCA number
(021442) I knew it was an omen.  So last year when I was finally serious
about purchasing an Olds I looked at many models from F-85s to W-30s to
Y=74 Cutlass'. Well I used the omen and bought the 442.  The good thing
about waiting so many years to buy my 442 is that I was able to afford
more of a car (within reason).  I finally settled on an undocumented
W-30 (I'm sure it isn't) that is loaded but not perfect.  This way I can
drive it and enjoy it.  Even my children can enjoy it and beleive it or
not, even my wife drives it occasionally and I'm damn proud of it.  You
should see the looks she gets in an Azure 442 she looks great in it. 
Seems Light Blue is a great female magnet as well. Now that I told my
story I must go wipe my tears and blow my nose.


Steven Saraceno
70 442 W-30 Convertible
OCA 021442

P.S. I now have all the W-30 parts

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 20:00:08 -0600
From: "noslo67" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Re: Hey noslo67!!

Joe R Brockman wrote:

> I was just wondering where did you get those #3701's from and how much
> were they?
>
> Joe Brockman
> 66 F-85

Joe,

 I don't remember where I bought them or how much they cost. I do know you
can get them from either Summit, Jegs or Mondello. Cost is pretty high, I do
rember that much, probably around $250.00. Sorry I cuoldn't be more help to
you but in the last couple years I rebuilt my girlfriends '69 Cougar, my '67
Cutlass convertible (still needs paint and strato buckets, anybody have
some), and also my '67 Cutlass Supreme drag car. I've just bought so many
damn parts I can't keep anything straight anymore.
One thing I do remember well about those headers is that the ports are
smaller than C heads exhaust ports. Especially so on mine since I opened the
exhaust on the heads. To fix this I had to weld around each header tube at
the flange to build some material, then grind and blend the header ports to
match the larger size exhaust port of the head.
By the way the header tubes are 1-3/4" with a 3" cillector in case you were
wondering.

Shane Gibreal
'67 Cutlass
'67 Cutlass Supreme - drag

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 20:00:22 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Re: New

Don Ruder wrote:

> Hello, I am new to this list.  Any Olds drag racers on the list?


Hey Don,

I'm a drag racer, and there quite a few more here too.


Shane Gibreal
'67 Cutlass convertible
'67 Cutlass Supreme - drag

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 17:55:56 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re:VC, Sportwagons

>
>Note that the VC/Sportwagon brake drums can be replaced with new 2 1/2"
>_front_ drums from A-body, F-body, and X-body cars.  Simply get the 2-piece
>drum (for the application with a separate hub) and it fits right on.  I
>used Nova front drums on the back of my 68 VC with no problems whatsoever.
>
>
will this work on a '66 Vista or just 68-72?
2 1/2" front drums seem to be ALOT cheaper than 
the prices I've found for VC rear drums.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 18:02:39 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Vista Cruiser's similar cousins...  anybody?

>its a rare bird.
>Yes it was a Buick sportwagon, made only in 65-66 I believe.
> 
this post took FOREVER to show up :(

I now know this is wrong :)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 21:16:04 -0500
From: "Charles L. Summers" <cls@ma.ultranet.com>
Subject: Bad rap

Hi all;

Developed a tick this past spring, quickly turned into a rap. Though
that it swallowed something so I removed drivers' side head, all ok.
That is now back together. I then attacked the bottom end, following the
shop manual except for the jig to raise the engine, I raised it with a
floor jack and a 2x6 on the oil pan. The manual says that the pan can be
removed after getting the 1st crank throw out of the way, I'm not quite
high enough yet, I guess. The car had just finished a 2 year stint in
the body shop, I'm not excited about engine removal at this time, new
paint and all, and the cold is closer now!

Has anybody done this on a 70 350? I helped a buddie do it to his '56,
spun in new mains and rod bearings really slick but that was only 30
years ago.

Thanks for advice

Charlie
70 Cutlass Supreme 34257

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 19:29:16 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 455 Buildup 

The torque converter is the large round thing in the front of the trans.  If
you are only doing the engine, I would not change it.  Unless it is broken,
then don't bother.  If you are getting a new trans, then change it.  The
only reason why I changed mine, is because I wanted higher stall.


>Igor,
> I think the rear is 2.56 since the car really hums and smooths right out
>at 75-80mph!  I think I will consider the cam and mufflers you suggest
>since I don't want to spend to much on this rebuild.  Don't know about
>headers since that is another cost.  One thing I like about the cam is like
>you said I can maintain my current stall converter.  I am not real familiar
>with automatics, is the torque converter an item that should be replaced
>while rebuilding the motor or should I keep it since it obviously works?
>Thanks for your response.
>
>Jim Brady
>
>>What I did to the J-heads was remove the a.i.r. bump on the exhaust side &
>>polish it.  I then opened up the exhaust valve opening a bit.  As far as
the
>>stock gears go, if you keep them go with the same cam I have (which is the
>>same as Edelbrock Performer) and don't get a stall converter.  You don't
>>need it + with 2.56 gears I would not recommend it.  I use the same stock
>>exhaust manifolds as you have.  They work okay.  It is true duel exhaust
>>with the second inlet on the pass. side capped off.  The car is silent
>>(believe me) with 2.5" duels, balancer tube, Dynomax Long Turbo mufflers
and
>>2.25" tails.  (Long mufflers will flow better and be quieter, but cost
>>more). BUT if you can, GET headers.  I doubt that the car would be much
>>louder, but it would make much more power.  The stock manifolds are too
>>restrictive and hurt lots.  I could not fit any headers in my car, but
they
>>make them for yours.  On a big motor like that, headers are like free
power.
>>
>>Igor
>1973 Delta 88 Royale Convertible
>http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 19:54:15 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Engine TICK (noise), HELP ASAP

My Motor is starting to really PISS me off.  Today, I was at the bodyshop
again working on my car.  When I went to start it up and back it out, when
the motor started there was this loud TIC-TIC-TIC coming from the motor.  It
is the same tick that I had from the first week of rebuild, but usually it
is so faint, only I can hear it.  Oil pressure was right on.  I let it warm
up and the tic went away.  WHY WOULD IT start ticking all of a sudden.
Later, I restarted it (when it cooled a bit) and there was no tick.  The
motor has 500 miles and a few hours of idling.  The car has not been driven
(really) for about 2.5 months now.  It has been started though.  WHAT THE
HELL COULD IT BE.  I am thinking lifters as it sounded like on of the #1
piston lifters.  What other noise would go away after about 1.5 minutes of
idling.  I took the car for a spin, and it still roasts the tires and goes
pretty good.  However, I am vary concerned.  When I installed the lifters, I
put cam-lube on the bottom of them, and then put oil on the sides and dipped
them in.  Later (after initial start), I read that I should have soaked them
in oil, and then pre-loaded them with a pushrod, but I never did this.  It
ran fine, and there was no lifter noise (maybe vary faint) until now.  Is it
the lifters?  Thanks.  The motor is a '76 455.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 19:57:30 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Bad rap

My car has just developed a tick at the bodyshop.  Seems that it is a
disease.  Except, my engine is NEW.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 21:56:05 -0500
From: "Charles L. Summers" <cls@ma.ultranet.com>
Subject: Re: Bad rap

Groan....my engine has 150Kmiles, never was apart until this and the
weather window is closing in on me up here in Massachusetts.

Igor T. '81 DRB 455 wrote:

> My car has just developed a tick at the bodyshop.  Seems that it is a
> disease.  Except, my engine is NEW.

- --
Charles L. Summers   Phone:   (978) 635-9162
438 Hill Road   Mobile:  (978) 320-4594
Boxborough, MA 01719-1028  USA
Homepage:   http://www.homestead.com/438hillroad/hp1.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 21:46:55 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: electric vs. automatic choke

- -----Original Message-----
From: BRIAN SHANKLE <cshankle@home.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, November 25, 1998 11:43 AM
Subject: Re: electric vs. automatic choke


>This one just has a single male plug that sort of jets out of the choke
>cover.

Yup, just one terminal. The other side of the choke heater element is
ground.

The choke should ideally be powered only after the engine starts, so it
isn't trying to open while you're cranking a cold motor. The factory did
that by either a hooking it's power through the oil pressure switch, or by a
relay. The relay coil would be powered by the GEN idiot light circuit (the
brown wire on the alternator).

Some folks simply power the choke from a key-on 12 volt line, like the big
red wire on the distributor (HEI ignition).

After you get the throttle cable straightened away, you might want to check
Tom Lentz's web site for the adjustment procedure on the electronic Q-Jets
at http://www.ior.com/~tlentz/hurst.html

Follow the "More Power" link, then to TPS and Idle Adjustment procedures.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 22:07:54 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Thanks

Reflecting on the many things I have to thank the Lord for this season, I
must include the friends I've met here and the fellowship I've enjoyed from
the Olds community.

And thanks to Greg for administering this forum.

Also to the folks who replied to my recent query on car covers.

Everyone have a great holiday.

Dave Cullen

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 22:04:11 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Engine TICK (noise), HELP ASAP

> I let it warm up and the tic went away.   WHAT THE HELL COULD IT BE

Igor,

Have you checked for an exhaust leak (minor crack in x-man)?

A small enough crack will close itself when the manifold heats up. You
know......it's an expansion thing.

Just a thought........Happy Holidays to all!

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 22:12:55 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine TICK (noise), HELP ASAP

check the fan to shroud to clearance.  this is a problem on a friends car.  is
the sound you are hearing a constant tick?

mike

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 21:25:47 -0600
From: texas442 <texas442@flash.net>
Subject: 71 442 Stripes location

Hello,

My 71 442 is now ready for the side stripes. I like to know the exact
distance from the bottom of the "442" fender emblems to the top of the
stripes.  You can see what I am talking about in this picture:

http://www.flash.net/~texas442/Emblem.jpg

I am looking for the "X" dimension shown.  I know for a fact that the
car shown in this picture has the stripes too low.  Can someone please
measure that same distance off their 71 or 72 442 (non-W30) and let me
know?  Thank you very much.

Ali

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 22:32:36 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: 4-speed, TH-400 Vs. TH-350

<< What was/is the real difference and advantage/disadvantage of the 4-speed
 manual and Th400 auto transmission behind a BB.  Is the manual faster? >>

for daily driving an auto is faster.  for strip driving an auto is faster.
for weekend driving, a stick is more fun to drive.  i would sway away from
using a th-400 if you only plan on daily driving.  the th-400 has more moving
parts than the th-350.  and when built right a th-350 will take more
punishment.  a few years ago a few friends and i built a camero.  it had a 700
horse bbc in it.  we chose a th-350 w/5000 stall converter.  no problems what-
so-ever.  actually the only prob was the rear end holding up to the torque.
"i would say that a factory built th-350 would be the best bet for daily
driving."

mikeytvb@aol.com
70 442 w/455 & th-400

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 22:41:41 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: electric vs. automatic choke

is the choke even necessary?  here in hot, sunny florida we don't even use our
chokes.  i took mine off.  starts up normal.  alot of guys down here do this.
but if you need one here is what i know about them.  the electric choke used
on gm cars was actually like the old ones.  in the old chokes, the tubes gave
the choke it's hot air which opens the choke.  in the electric, the power
heats up the element and the choke opens up.  the choke can be hooked up to
the ing terminal on the fusebox.  this will give power to the choke only when
the engine should be running.

mikeytvb@aol.com
70 442 w/455

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 22:38:36 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Engine TICK (noise), HELP ASAP

Igor

        Your correct in assuming it's the lifters. If the car is not run
for any
real length of thime the lifters will bleed down causing the tick. We've found
that making sure there is no slop in the rocker arms helps. Our 72 Supreme does
the same thing in the morning until it warms up. It too has new cam and
lifters. It was really bad before we replaced all the rocker arms and trunions.

Jim Chermack

At 09:54 PM 11/25/98 , you wrote:
>My Motor is starting to really PISS me off.  Today, I was at the bodyshop
>again working on my car.  When I went to start it up and back it out, when
>the motor started there was this loud TIC-TIC-TIC coming from the motor.  It
>is the same tick that I had from the first week of rebuild, but usually it
>is so faint, only I can hear it.  Oil pressure was right on.  I let it warm
>up and the tic went away.  WHY WOULD IT start ticking all of a sudden.
>Later, I restarted it (when it cooled a bit) and there was no tick.  The
>motor has 500 miles and a few hours of idling.  The car has not been driven
>(really) for about 2.5 months now.  It has been started though.  WHAT THE
>HELL COULD IT BE.  I am thinking lifters as it sounded like on of the #1
>piston lifters.  What other noise would go away after about 1.5 minutes of
>idling.  I took the car for a spin, and it still roasts the tires and goes
>pretty good.  However, I am vary concerned.  When I installed the lifters, I
>put cam-lube on the bottom of them, and then put oil on the sides and dipped
>them in.  Later (after initial start), I read that I should have soaked them
>in oil, and then pre-loaded them with a pushrod, but I never did this.  It
>ran fine, and there was no lifter noise (maybe vary faint) until now.  Is it
>the lifters?  Thanks.  The motor is a '76 455.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 22:40:40 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: W-27

Steven

        You should find the codes in the same place as any other rear.
Check the
front side looking upside down. I have found them stamped this way also. 
        As for the cover just gently pry the cover off with a putty knife. You
won't hurt it.

Jim Chermack

At 10:40 PM 11/25/98 , you wrote:
>I give UP. Where are the codes for the gear ratio on a w-27 rear end.  I
>looked where you would normally find them on a '70 but can't find it (I
>'ve found them on other '70s).  I believe it should have a code of SV
>3:23 SX 3:42 or SZ 3:91.  I see the part number and even an L and R for
>assembly reference but no code.
>
>Also does anyone have any hints on how to pull off the aluminum cover. I
>took the bolts off but the sealant is strong and I don't want to damage
>the aluminum.
>
>Steven Saraceno
>70 442 W-30 Convertible
>OCA 021442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 23:12:25 EST
From: OLDS44272@aol.com
Subject: Re: New(olds motor)

    << Desperately trying to find a good
buildable 425 or 455 Olds motor for next race season though.>>


   Jason, a friend has a 73 455 motor. The motor is disassembled but it is all
there. The heads are off a 71. I can get list of the casting codes if you
would like. He is asking $200 for the motor and extra cam,heads and intake.
The motor is in Euclid ohio.........E-mail me privately if you would like his
phone number....SCOTT

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 23:58:08 -0500
From: "Loris" <loris@tir.com>
Subject: 2 Speed to TH350 swap

Before I spend the money on it, I'd like to drop the 2 speed and replace it
with a TH350 auto.  Will I need to have the drive shaft
shortened/lengthened?  Differences in linkage?

'68 Cutlass

- -Loris

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 00:09:29 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: 4-speed, TH-400 Vs. TH-350

In a message dated 11/25/98 10:34:26 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Mikeytvb@aol.com writes:

<< and when built right a th-350 will take more
 punishment.  >>
hmmm....  i dunno about that.  the th400 is an absolute stout tranny.  pick up
a 350 then pick up a 400.  400 feels like it weighs twice as much.  the 400 is
like a 9" ford rearend.  sucks some power to use it, but it will handle crazy
amounts.  quite a bit more than a 350.  the 350 is in my eyes a good bit
better for a daily driver tho, as well as cars running up to around 500-600hp.
but i guess thats just my opinion.	
jeremy
BIGJERMES@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 23:12:51 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
Subject: Re: Bondo:Friend or Foe?

hasent yet musta used two or three gallons of the stuff in the past five
years and it is easy to work and easy to apply no problems so far...KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim & Sharon Brady <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, November 25, 1998 6:31 PM
Subject: Re: Bondo:Friend or Foe?


>Sound interesting...waterproof.  One problem, will the aluminum react with
>steel body?  Bondo friend or foe?...Moot point, bondo is necessary unless
>you want to use lead to fill.
>
>Jim Brady
>1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
>http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
>bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
>>well to add my 2 cents to this thread I use USC (united states chemical)
>all
>>metal it is a polyester filler with aluminum added to it it is water proof
>>no absorption never had any problems with it...KK
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 21:39:28 -0800
From: "Don Ruder" <ruderdj@seanet.com>
Subject: Re: Newbe

The quickest I have gone with the BFG Drag Radials is 12.16.  My Nova is
running 11.40s on the M/T ET Streets & will take more & still hook.  I tried
the BFGs on the Nova, no go.  Just smoked em.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 21:36:46 -0800
From: "Don Ruder" <ruderdj@seanet.com>
Subject: Re: New

I used chevy frame pads.  All the holes were already there though.  Also for
the tranny mount, rear end, no sweat on the headers or radiator either.
Really an easy swap.  The motor is a 69 390 hp 427 with a M21 4-speed and
3.73:1 12 bolt posi.  Naturally aspirated, single 4 barrel, no nitrous,
closed exhaust (3" flowmaster), and street tires (BFG Drag radials) gave us
a best of 12.16@113 at Seattle International Raceway.  60' times were
1.67-1.68.  Super Chevy magazine got really pissed when an Olds won the
street tire bracket in 92!!  It's really great when you can run like that &
drive it home without turning a wrench!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 00:49:07 EST
From: Moparrp@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine TICK (noise), HELP ASAP

On your ticking noise, Olds engines use a bridge and rockr set up. With age
they weardown, pull a valve cover, remove a loose rocer and check for wear. I
have a 66 cutlass 330 4v with 285,000 miles. It only ticked a little until my
teenage daughter took it out racing on the hi-way. I got a call asking what
the little red lights meant, do I need to say more? I was able to drive it
home but the blow-by was so bad I thought the car  was on fire.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 00:53:26 EST
From: Moparrp@aol.com
Subject: Re: 2 Speed to TH350 swap

some short tail TH350's will bolt in directly, it is a good idea to take some
measurements with you before getting into this.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 23:54:21 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Bad rap

It can be done but it's much easier with a cherry picker so that you
have more room to work under the car.  It will still be a pain in the
a** since the crossmember is so big and covers up so much from
the bottom.  I would advise pulling the motor as this would probably
end up being quicker in the end.  If your really worried about scratching
the new paint up trying to get the engine out just remove the front clip.
Once you drain and remove the radiator all you have to do is remove
the hood (4 bolts), unbolt the rear of the fenders (8 bolts), unbolt the 
radiator support (2bolts), remove the front bumper (4bolts and a few 
wires), and unbolt the inner fenderwells.  With a buddy to help lift it
you can remove the fenders/grille as a unit and just have the bare frame
to work around.  If you have a/c you can even leave it all connected and
just carefully lay the condensor on top of the motor and you dont have
to break and lines.  Did this on my 72 with no problems and realignment
is no problem if you mark everything with a scribe and keep track of which
shims went where.  Then you can pull the engine very easily and even
clean up the frame while your at it.  It sounds complex but I think it took
me about an hour to get apart.  Good luck.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme
 
> I then attacked the bottom end, following the
>shop manual except for the jig to raise the engine, I raised it with a
>floor jack and a 2x6 on the oil pan. The manual says that the pan can be
>removed after getting the 1st crank throw out of the way, I'm not quite
>high enough yet, I guess. The car had just finished a 2 year stint in
>the body shop, I'm not excited about engine removal at this time, new
>paint and all, and the cold is closer now!
>
>Has anybody done this on a 70 350? I helped a buddie do it to his '56,
>spun in new mains and rod bearings really slick but that was only 30
>years ago.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 00:59:27 EST
From: DrkSole96@aol.com
Subject: Re: car wont turn off

Well, I got the gen light to turn off, turns out that I had accidentally
crushed the yellow wire on the starter behind the large one in the middle.
After about an hour of dicking around to get the wire's hooked back up, I got
in the car, the gen light wasn't constantly on, but now the starter won't
turn, no clicks or anything.  I'm about ready to just pay to have it towed to
a mechanic, it's really pissing me off.  Just to double check, which terminal
does the yellow wire connect to?
Thanks
:p

DrkSole96
73 Cutlass supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 23:16:14 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Engine TICK (noise), HELP ASAP

Rockers are new.  I put the old rockers on, but there was a tick.  Then I
replaced them and the tick was gone (different one).  I did not pump up the
lifters or soak them in oil.  Could this mean anything.  I will change the
intake when I get the car back.  Then would be the time to change/check
lifters.  Should I put new ones on and pump/soak them.  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 23:20:28 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Engine TICK (noise), HELP ASAP

>Have you checked for an exhaust leak (minor crack in x-man)?


Could be.  I used permatex gasket glue (stupid) when I put the manifold
gaskets.  It burned for a few minutes, but then it burned off.  So, it could
be that there is a hole in the burnt crap.  But why would it go nuts all of
a sudden.  I still think lifters, but will check and tighten manifolds.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 25 Nov 1998 22:19:06 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: 2 Speed to TH350 swap

At 11:58 PM 11/25/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Before I spend the money on it, I'd like to drop the 2 speed and replace it
>with a TH350 auto.  Will I need to have the drive shaft
>shortened/lengthened?  Differences in linkage?
>
It wil bolt right in and it the same length as the turbine 300 2 speed.
you will need to hook up a downshift cable. I used a B&M universal cable.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 01:43:54 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine TICK (noise), HELP ASAP

Could it possibly (hopefully) just be an exhaust leak that seals as the metal
expands? I know it's a l;ong shot, but much better than bad lifters : (
Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 01:37:02 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: 72 442 Fender Emblem location

I was wondering if someone could find out the EXACT measurement of where
the 442 fender emblem location should be. A measurement from the fender
side and fender bottom should be good. This would be on a 72.


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 01:45:23 -0500
From: "Johnny Gage" <bladernr@roava.net>
Subject: Thanksgiving

Just a message to everyone I know to have a great thanksgiving day!

Eat lots of turkey and beer!  I mean Yams, and Pumpkin pie!  And watch
parades, and for those of you Toronado lovers, go for a nice Holiday
drive!!!!!!

I will be enjoying the holiday with my family, but will also be on call for
the rescue squad.  I hope and pray that no one will need my assistance this
season.  So to you all, I wish the best.

Happy Thanksgiving!!!

Jeff
><> ><> ><> ><> ><> 67 Toronado  ><> ><> ><> ><> ><>

Jeffrey Lane, EMT-ST                                ICQ#18716911
                    http://www.roava.net/~bladernr
    bladernr@roava.net               EMTBoy9@aol.com

Sr. Sergeant, Equipment Officer  | EMT-ST/Driver
Fort Lewis Rescue Squad, Inc.   | United Ambulance Service
Salem, Virginia                             | Roanoke, Virginia

"Knowledge is power.  But power corrupts, and corruption is a sin, so if
you seek knowledge, you will burn in hell. . ."

- ----------------------------------Carpe
Noctum------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 9 Nov 1998 12:29:27 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Keyless Entry Troubleshooting

> The keyless entry on my wife's '92 Cutlass Supreme (factory Oldsmobile
> keyless entry system) quit working.  Both remotes quit working at the same
> time, which leads me to believe something is wrong with the module.  Does
> anyone have any troubleshooting hints?  The owner's manual says to reset
> the module, but that didn't help.

Bob, 

I can't really help you. Looks like you will have to exchange the 

whole module. 
What I would recommend to do when you plan to keep this car for longer 
and work on it yourself is to buy an original shop manual. 
It should be around 60 - 90 bucks and it will answer you a lot of 
questions of the kind you have right now. Those aftermarket Haynes 
manuals you can get in the discount stores are very good for mechanical 
purposes but as soon as you get into electrical and interior problems 
they don't help you. 

Hope this helps, Good luck 

George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 06:49:57 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: original upholstery (fwd)

From Doug Kitchener... dunno anything about the company but passing it
along.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Douglas Kitchener <dk0009@mail.pratt.lib.md.us>
Subject: original upholstery

Forwarding this to you fwiw... I dunno whether to consider this as spam or 
not... personally, since it was unsolicited, I tend to classify it as such... 
your discretion as to whether you'd like to forward to the lists, and sorry to 
bother you about it if it fits the spam criteria!

Happy Thanksgiving!  (You too, Greg, even tho I'm not sure when yours is!)  :)

Thanks-

Doug

                                     ******

My client Rick Mangione has a large inventory of original automotive
upholstery that your club members maybe very much interested in.

We would greatly appreciate it if you could pass this information on to your
club members - or if you could best tell us how we could do that.

Our webpage and inventory listing can be viewed at

 <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/cpoyer911/auto/mangione.htm">Mangione -
Original Automobile Upholsteries</A> 

or

http://members.aol.com/cpoyer911/auto/mangione.htm

Thank You.
C. Poyer

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 07:12:22 EST
From: MrExMt@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine TICK (noise), HELP ASAP

I had the same problem on my '68. Some of the lifter plungers were stuck, I
pulled them all & replaced then as well as the rockers & pivots for under
$125.00 with Federal Mogul parts. It took only about 5 hours & is now silent.
It was worth the work!!!
Leigh
'68 Cutlass S convert.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 07:33:47 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1623

Del,
    I have had tremendous luck with black engine paint for the engine
compartment.  You don't need heat resistant paint but the beauty of engine
paint is that it does not require primer.  Simply wet sand then apply a few
light coats of paint.  Good Luck.

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
>A) What type of
>paint and preparation should be used for in the engine compartment? I
>want to paint the firewall and anything else in the compartment that
>needs paint. Will I need a paint that will resist heat, or will any
>paint do? How would I prep something like that? Do I have to sand it
>and primer?
>
>Del
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 08:04:25 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: Bondo:Friend or Foe?

David,
    Was this 1/4 inch coat pretty even over most of the trunk or was it for
a repair?  I ask this because when I stripped and painted my Delta I found
what appeared to be factory 'Bondo' over the top portions of both quarters.
I believe the 'Bondo' found on the trunk was factory as well.  You would be
surprised how thick you can apply 'Bondo' particularly on horizontal
surfaces.

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
>
>> One thing to remember: all body fillers will attrach moisture, so don't
>> leave the car out, or drive around in the rain! All primers (except
>> exotic stuff) don't provide a moisture barrier either.
>
>Ok, I stand corrected, All Metal is pretty much unaffected to moisture.
>Still I wouldn't run the car in the wet.
>
>Regarding body filler vs leading, when I stripped the 70 Delta's trunk
>lid, I
>discovered a patch of filler, probably applied by the shop that
>repainted the car around 1982'ish. About 1/4" thick (thicker than it
>should be), and holding like crazy. So, I guess they did a good prep
>job. I (and many others) never knew it was there until I stripped the
>trunk. So it seems the stuff will work sort of permanently.
>
>- --
>David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 09:08:12 -0500
From: Bob Dale <bctad5@toolcity.net>
Subject: Re: Engine TICK (noise), HELP ASAP

Igor T. '81 DRB 455 wrote:

> My Motor is starting to really PISS me off.  Today, I was at the
> bodyshop
> again working on my car.  When I went to start it up and back it out,
> when
> the motor started there was this loud TIC-TIC-TIC coming from the
> motor.  It
> is the same tick that I had from the first week of rebuild, but
> usually it
> is so faint, only I can hear it.  Oil pressure was right on.  I let it
> warm
> up and the tic went away.  WHY WOULD IT start ticking all of a sudden.
>
> Later, I restarted it (when it cooled a bit) and there was no tick.
> The
> motor has 500 miles and a few hours of idling.  The car has not been
> driven
> (really) for about 2.5 months now.  It has been started though.  WHAT
> THE
> HELL COULD IT BE.  I am thinking lifters as it sounded like on of the
> #1
> piston lifters.  What other noise would go away after about 1.5
> minutes of
> idling.  I took the car for a spin, and it still roasts the tires and
> goes
> pretty good.  However, I am vary concerned.  When I installed the
> lifters, I
> put cam-lube on the bottom of them, and then put oil on the sides and
> dipped
> them in.  Later (after initial start), I read that I should have
> soaked them
> in oil, and then pre-loaded them with a pushrod, but I never did
> this.  It
> ran fine, and there was no lifter noise (maybe vary faint) until now.
> Is it
> the lifters?  Thanks.  The motor is a '76 455.

Igor, My sympathies as I recently had/have similar aggravations with
rebuilt SBC. Tic`ed on the left side from breakin. Had valve cover off
and adjusted valve lash more times than I want to remember.Narrowed
noisiest problem down to #3 intake and went to the trouble of replacing
that lifter. that made #3 quiet. Then I could hear lifters in #1and #2
more than I like. I`ve been advized by 2 separate rebuilders to just
replace all lifters as they say it is not unusual to get bad new
ones.One said He had intake off 3 times before he replaced all and
solved problem for good using another new set from the same maufacturer!
I personally have a hard time replacing something that is not noisey or
broke so am living with a less noisey but not as quiet as I think it
should be left side. Remember sometimes a cold mechanical GM fuel pump
will tic like a lifter but that`s on the right side.
  I don`t know if others have had similar experiences bu tthis is one of
the more aggrevating especially when the car has air, power, ect.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1627
*********************************

