Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1611


oldsmobile-digest     Thursday, November 19 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1611



Re: Cryogenic Bearings
Ga Heads & 1.685 valves
Re: Correct Speedo gear?
Re: Cryogenic Bearings
Cheap A-bodies (Re: 72 Supreme FS)
Re: Olds Ads Web Page
Re: Light Bulb Upgrade
Re: 86 Cutlass wreck picture
Re: SB rear main seal
Re: a quick question
Re: SB rear main seal
Re: BB rear main seal
Quick headers question
Re: Light Bulb Upgrade
Re: BB rear main seal
tech spreadsheet
Re: Quick headers question
Calculator for Tire Size Information
Battery in Trunk - ideas?
Email List Removal
Re: Battery in Trunk - ideas?
Re: Battery in Trunk - ideas?
parking brake
Re: parking brake
Re: parking brake
Re: parking brake
Re: Battery in Trunk - ideas?
Re: parking brake
motor check stand
Oldsmobile FAQ
Re: motor check stand 
Re: Battery in Trunk - ideas?
Re: Light Bulb Upgrade
Re: motor check stand
Re: motor check stand
Re: motor check stand
Re: motor check stand
Re: SB rear main seal
Re: Battery in Trunk - ideas?
Re: parking brake
Re: motor check stand
Rear end
Re: Rear end
Valve Covers
Engine rebuilders in St. Louis
garage space, long
parking brake
Re: parking brake
Keeping a car dry (Re: garage space, long)
Re: Valve Covers
Re: Rear end
Re: parking brake
How to tell gear
Re: Valve Covers
Re: Valve Covers
Re: garage space, long
Re: Valve Covers
Re: motor check stand

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 02:17:57 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Cryogenic Bearings

Where  could you get your hands on some liquid nitrogen. I thought that
stuff is off limits to the general public.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Gasman24 <stulk@bellsouth.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Cryogenic Bearings
> Date: Wednesday, November 18, 1998 10:23 PM
> 
> Peter Landowski wrote:
> > 
> > Well I'm going to bite the bullet and buy $$$ those 455 main and rod
> > bearings tha are cryogenically frozen from Mondello $180.00. 
> <sniped>
>   Hey everyone,
>     I remember this thread a while back and was wondering how this
> process is done. Do they just put the bearings in liquid nitrogen(or
> whatever they use) and let them set for a while? Or is there more to it?
> I mean if all your doing is putting bearings in liquid nitrogen and
> letting them set a while, you could just do this yourself and save some
> $$$.
>  Just wondering if I'm missing something here.
> Scott <stulk@bellsouth.net>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 01:19:06 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Ga Heads & 1.685 valves

I am under the impression that Ga heads came with 1.685 exhaust valves which
are the biggest ever on a BB olds.  Correct.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 07:16:19 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Correct Speedo gear?

>I don't remember if I stated in the original question but I'm also running
>255-60-15" on rear. Does that change the factors. Original on Quincy were
>the standard 14"


255/60's are almost the same diameter as 205/75's so the 19T/45T pair would
be OK.

The 85 manual says 14" wheel 200C's also used 19 T (yellow) drive gears, but
with 34 T (Lt Green) driven gear. You might be lucky and have to only change
the driven gear.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 07:26:41 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Cryogenic Bearings

>Where  could you get your hands on some liquid nitrogen. I thought that
>stuff is off limits to the general public.


Most bottled gas companies that do oxygen, acetelene, propane, etc. also
carry nitrogen. ALL bottled gas is liquid when under pressure, it's the
bottle itself that's special. Liquid gas bottles have extra valves that
allow access to the bottom of the tank (where liquid is).

$$$ Cha-Ching $$$

Turn a regular bottle upside down and you get liquid out the valve.

To use liquid gas without special equipment is rather dumb.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 07:43:11 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Cheap A-bodies (Re: 72 Supreme FS)

Don Sowers wrote:
> 
> the phone to me.  The guy asked, "What is it worth to you?"  I countered
> with, what are you asking for it.  Well, it turns out he wants $700 for
> it.  When he asked in a rather abrupt fashion what was it worth to me, I
> told him nowhere close to that amount because it was only good for parts
> in my opinion.  He got a little huffy, said a few words and hung up.  If

Man, can't stand people like that. All they want to do is make somethin
outta nothin. Chicken salad out of chicken $h*t. And generally, you
can't bargain with these kind of people.

> located in Mt Sterling, Ky.  In my opinion I wouldn't give him more than
> $200 for the whole car as the only things I would be interested in are

> and a prick.  But that was just me.  If it ran and you could drive it
> home (even SLOWLY) $700 or so might be reasonable.  But given the
> circumstances I didn't think so.  But then if I err I want it to be on
> the cheap side, not the extra monied part.  Just thought someone might
> be interested.

Oh no, Don. It's not you. If someone like me can scrape up The Unit for
$300, plus new starter, and have a not perfect but running, almost
safely driveable car, then there is hope for the rest of you. I honestly
thought that when he said it ran, the price was going to go up a few
hundred. Nope! Hell, I bought my '75 S parts car for that much and all
we used off of it was the decklid and a dash piece.

So all I have to say is "keep looking." If I can find a deal this good
in a small town of 3k+ people, then there's hope for you that live in
bigger places and commute farther.

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***************************
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 V-8 4 bbl)
1975 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (250 I-6 1 bbl)
1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (350 V-8 2 bbl)
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4 bbl)
*******************************************
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 18 Nov 1998 18:44:42 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Ads Web Page

Yo, big John, big cruiser wagons rule the highways and byways.  Peter and
Redzilla and Big Blue and The Hornet and Jerry Lee et al.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 09:03:49 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Light Bulb Upgrade

In a message dated 11/18/98 5:27:10 PM EST, DYeager535@aol.com writes:

<< There is another if you have room, like for floor
  lights, use the 92 inplace of the 196's.  MUCH brighter, at least 200% >>

Where can you get the 92 bulb? I've looked in Pep Boys and R&S. The numbers go
from 91 to 93, but no 92.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 09:28:00 EST
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: 86 Cutlass wreck picture

john  did your car get wrecked????

  jeff dixie olds club here.... Did you ever find the literature you were
going to send me??
   thanks jeff

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 09:53:14 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: SB rear main seal

The Ford FE block seal is for the BB and DIESEL small block....
___________

Uh, just to be completely correct, the Ford 460 is not an FE motor.  The
FEs were the 352, 390, 427, 428 family.  The 429 and 460 are completely
different motors.  You want the 460 seal for a big block Olds.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 09:58:13 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: a quick question

hi

i have a quick question. are the olds 425 and cadillac 425 motors
interchangeable? how about the olds 454 and caddy 425? if not, how
much different are they? any info is greatly appreciated. thanks a lot.


murphy
_________

What do you mean by "interchangeable"?  As a complete engine assembly, yes,
you can put one in place of the other (bellhousing bolt patterns are the
same), but motor mounts, exhaust, etc. will likely need to be modified or
fabricated.  You'll also need to use the accessory brackets that go with
the motor.  As far as internal parts, the only thing in common is the
distributor cap.  They are totally different motors with different
castings, internal dimensions, etc.  As a qwick check, the Olds has its
distributor in the back, Caddy in the front.  Makes it hard to interchange
blocks.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 10:01:09 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: SB rear main seal

You can obtain a perfectly correct neoprene rubber rear main seal from
Mondello.
_________

If money is no object, that's correct.  He just gets the Fel-Pro Ford part,
lables it with his part number, and sells it for twice what you can get it
for from any auto parts store.  Oh, and you also get the privilege of
paying shipping.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 10:23:29 EST
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Re: BB rear main seal

Just for interest, when I ordered the neoprene seal for my 455 from Mondello,
close inspection of the part revealed a Ford oval and a Ford part number. The
Ford part then was 1/2 the Mondello price--as if this will surprise anybody.

I just checked the other day with a pal who's a Ford parts man, as I wanted to
buy a bunch of these seals to stock up for future projects. Lo and behold the
new Ford price was about $20/seal!! So if you're looking to buy any of these,
'Ol Joe or Dick Miller et al will actually be cheaper --until they discover
they can't replace their old stock at old prices.

Peter
CoupeKing@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 07:24:01 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Quick headers question

Okay list, 

I know that I have asked this before and I am sorry. I forgot to print
off any responses I got. But, I have been told by numerous people that
headers will fit on my 69 Olds Cutlass S with a 70 SB 350. I don't see
how it could. As the car sits now, I have approximately an inch to an
inch and a half clearance between the stock manifold and the
crossmember where the engine mounts to. Could I have the wrong engine
mounts on there or will the headers still fit in that narrow opening?

 Now, I know that Hooker Headers makes headers for the Olds, but I am
looking for something that is ceramic coated or stainless steel. This
car is a daily driver in the summer (weather permitting) and I want
headers that I won't have to mess with a whole lot. I figured now
would be the time to buy them. The way I see it, I have the whole
front radiator core support off, so, it might be easier to remove the
engine, put the headers on, then slide everything straight in. Any
advice?

Thanks,
Del




==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 07:26:37 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Light Bulb Upgrade

> I know this is old news, but something was brought to my attention
> about this. With the extra light comes extra heat, right?

Yup.

> My dome light was melted when I bought it.

Not surprising; the dome light plastic has always been a little cheesy
and it's pretty normal for the older ones to go yellow and brown, even
with the correct bulb installed. One good baking session with a door
left open can be enough.

> My friend tried the 2057/2056's in his older car, that had the
> 1156's and 1157's, and it shorted the system. In a '78 GM vehicle.
> That may have been a fluke,

Yup. The power consumption difference wouldn't be enough to blow a
fuse (I think it's... what, a 30-amp circuit? And in any case, a
too-powerful bulb wouldn't cause a short per se (at least, not before
the whole socket melted into a lump of molten plastic :-).

> but the heat issue I think is valid in the plastic fixtures.

It is. Your best bet to improve the lighting is to remove the 
lenses and wash them inside and out, install new 1156/1157 bulbs
and wipe a little Vaseline petroleum jelly on the contacts as
you do so. The bulbs dim with age and you _will_ notice the
difference when you put new ones in.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 10:30:48 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: BB rear main seal

Sure the Ford price is high. I bet Federal Mogul or other brands aren't
though/

- -----Original Message-----

>Just for interest, when I ordered the neoprene seal for my 455 from
Mondello,
>close inspection of the part revealed a Ford oval and a Ford part number.
The
>Ford part then was 1/2 the Mondello price--as if this will surprise
anybody.
>
>I just checked the other day with a pal who's a Ford parts man, as I wanted
to
>buy a bunch of these seals to stock up for future projects. Lo and behold
the
>new Ford price was about $20/seal!! So if you're looking to buy any of
these,
>'Ol Joe or Dick Miller et al will actually be cheaper --until they discover
>they can't replace their old stock at old prices.
>
>Peter
>CoupeKing@aol.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 10:36:17 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: tech spreadsheet

If anyone's interested, I compiled technical formulas pertaining to
automobile engines (i.e., displacement, cfm requirements, RPM/gear
ratio/tire size, etc.) It is not exhaustive but it is certainly useful in
picking tire size, gears and such. I have used it a lot. If you want a copy
e-mail me privately. It was written in Lotus 123 and "should" translate into
Excel with no problems. It's a 75k file.
comid@jellico.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 11:42:30 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Quick headers question

Del,

First, on the coated headers, Hooker sells headers with a ceramic-metallic
coating (HPC or Jet Hot, I'm not sure which, but the use basically the same
process).  You can also take non-coated headers, even used ones, directly
to either of those two companies for coating.  The stuff is bulletproof.

Now, as far as fitting, the correct small block headers _will_ fit your
car, keeping in mind that even the best headers will usually require some
slight tweaking with a hammer.  I don't know how they do it, but the tubes
will fit.  Keep in mind that we're only talking about 1 3/4" diameter
primary tubes, so it isn't too hard to snake them between the motor and
frame.  I haven't installed small block headers in about 20 years, but I'm
sure the installation process is similar to that for big block headers.
First, you cannot bolt the headers to the motor with the motor out of the
car and then expect to drop it in.  The collectors will not clear the frame
rails.  Second, while it is not necessary (I've done it both ways), having
the front sheet metal off the car helps dramatically.  It _is_ possible to
install the headers with the car fully assembled.  Once you remove the
original exhaust manifolds and pipes, you'll need to drop the starter and
the oil filter adapter.  The dipstick tube will need to be removed.  The
only way I've ever been able to do this without damage is to use a slide
hammer with an adapter that fits into the end of the tube.  I made mine,
but Mondello sells one that apparently works.  On 1969 and newer cars,
you'll need to remove and discard the backdrive linkage from the trans to
the steering column - NOTE:  This is why you cannot run headers on a column
shift Olds.  Finally, if you have a manual trans, you'll need to remove the
clutch equalizer shaft (the z-bar).  This last item is usually the biggest
headache when it comes time to get everything to fit.  Some headers simply
do not clear the equalizer and are restricted to AT only applications.  Be
sure you get the correct ones.  Note also that having the driver's side
fender off helps immeasureably when reinstalling the equalizer shaft.

Get the car as high in the air as safely possible (and of course, ensure
that it is properly supported).  If memory serves, one side will go in from
underneath without jacking the motor, but the other side will require you
to pull the through bolt holding the motor mount to the frame mount and
jack the motor up.  You may even need to remove the motor mount from the
block (note that headers from different manufacturers will be shaped
differently and may require the removal of other items to allow enough
clearance to get them in).  When I get the header in place, I'll loosely
start the first and last bolts to hold it there.  You'll want to reinstall
the oil filter adapter, dipstick tube, and starter at this point.  Also,
ensure that the starter wiring is clear of the headers.  With the front and
back bolts loosely in place, drop the gasket in between the header and the
head.  Note that you'll either need the gaskets with the front and back
bolt holes slotted, or you'll need to do that yourself.  Also, Mr. Gasket
now sells solid copper exhaust gaskets with embossed rings around the
ports, and amazingly they do have one for Olds motors.  I haven't tried
these yet, but they look promising.  Once the gasket's in place, install
the rest of the bolts and tighten.  Hook up the exhaust, ensure anything
you removed is reinstalled, and double check that the starter wiring is
clear of the pipes.  Fire it up and once the motor is hot retorque all the
header bolts.  Get in the habit of doing this periodically; it's a fact of
life with headers.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 09:21:59 -0800
From: "Gary Andresen (At Home - Personal e-mail address)" <gandresen@home.com>
Subject: Calculator for Tire Size Information

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0026_01BE139E.0F0FB240
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Came across this site and thought other might find it useful

                   This service calculates the actual size of a tire given
its size specification. Any number of tire sizes may be specified in the
list. For each tire
                   specification, the percentage difference from the first
size specification is shown. This is useful for determining the difference
in speedometer
                   and odometer reading or gearing.

                   http://www.powerdog.com/tiresize.cgi


Gary Andresen

'55 Old 88 2-door Hardtop
with 455 Olds and T400
http://www.442.com/andresen.html

- ------=_NextPart_000_0026_01BE139E.0F0FB240
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D20521517-19111998><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial =
size=3D2>Came=20
across this site and thought other might find it =
useful</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D20521517-19111998><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial=20
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><SPAN class=3D20521517-19111998><FONT =
color=3D#000000 face=3DArial=20
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
</FONT></SPAN>This service calculates the actual size of a tire given =
its size=20
specification. Any number of tire sizes may be specified in the list. =
For each=20
tire<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
specification, the percentage difference from the first size =
specification is=20
shown. This is useful for determining the difference in=20
speedometer<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
and odometer reading or gearing. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://www.powerdog.com/tiresize.cgi"><SPAN =
class=3D20521517-19111998><FONT=20
color=3D#ffffff face=3DArial=20
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
</FONT></SPAN>http://www.powerdog.com/tiresize.cgi</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Gary Andresen<BR><BR>'55 Old 88 2-door Hardtop<BR>with 455 Olds and =

T400<BR><A href=3D"http://www.442.com/andresen.html"=20
target=3D_blank>http://www.442.com/andresen.html</A></DIV></FONT></DIV></=
BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0026_01BE139E.0F0FB240--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 12:44:09 -0500
From: Brian Richardson <brian.richardson@mci.com>
Subject: Battery in Trunk - ideas?

The mounting plate to my ' 72 Cutlass has rusted in a couple of critical
place. I am strongly conciddering the possibility of mounting my batter in
the trunk. So now to my question.... 
Have any of you done this before? 
Does anyone have some advice to give to an experienced novice? 
I think I would need some sort of a box to protect the battery... any ideas
on that?
Just send me anything on this, all information will be appreciated!



Thanks in advance.



Brian Richardson
WindowsNT Architecture
VNET: 949-5072
DID: 770-284-5072
Pager: 800-PAGEMCI pin# 166-1665

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 12:56:30 -0500
From: "Eclipse Computer Services" <eclipse@niagara.com>
Subject: Email List Removal

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BE13BC.07250A80
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Please take me off the list....I've changed email addresses.

Thanx.

eclipse@niagara.com


- ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BE13BC.07250A80
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Please take me off the list....I've =
changed=20
email addresses.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanx.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:eclipse@niagara.com">eclipse@niagara.com</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BE13BC.07250A80--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 12:49:48 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Battery in Trunk - ideas?

...mounting my batter in the trunk...
_________

Been there, done that.  Chrysler used to sell a nice generic
battery-in-the-trunk kit under the Direct Connection program.  Don't know
if they still do.  Sears sells plastic marine battery boxes, which I used
in my application.  Be sure to run a vent for the hydrogen gas to the
outside of the car.  Use the heaviest gauge battery cable you can, and
ensure that the engine to frame and battery to frame ground cables have
good, rust-free contact points.  Consider coating these connections with
paint or some sort of sealer to prevent moisture from causing corrosion
over time.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 12:09:00 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Battery in Trunk - ideas?

> I think I would need some sort of a box to protect the battery... any ideas
> on that?

Brian, 

that is what the drag race people like to do to get weight in the back. 
There should be kits sold with covers, mounting plates etc. I can't say it 
for sure but try for ex. jegs or another hot rod catalog or place. Maybe 
someone on the list has a tip?

I would not do this to a regular car but well, that is your choice...

Regards, George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

On Thu, 19 Nov 1998, Brian Richardson wrote:

> The mounting plate to my ' 72 Cutlass has rusted in a couple of critical
> place. I am strongly conciddering the possibility of mounting my batter in
> the trunk. So now to my question.... 
> Have any of you done this before? 
> Does anyone have some advice to give to an experienced novice? 
> Just send me anything on this, all information will be appreciated!
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> Brian Richardson
> WindowsNT Architecture
> VNET: 949-5072
> DID: 770-284-5072
> Pager: 800-PAGEMCI pin# 166-1665
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 13:23:41 -0500
From: David Booker <dbooker@mindspring.com>
Subject: parking brake

Snagged my parking brake cable and pulled it loose. Now the front wheels
are locked. I am gonna climb under there tonight, anybody that can fill me
in on what to expect and what might be needed to repair?


David Booker
Atlanta

'69 442 Conv (w/w/w 400 AT mint)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 10:30:28 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: parking brake

Front wheels are locked? I always thought that the parking brake
pulled the rear brakes. I have never seen em pull the front before. Am
I wrong here?





- ---David Booker <dbooker@mindspring.com> wrote:
>
> Snagged my parking brake cable and pulled it loose. Now the front
wheels
> are locked. I am gonna climb under there tonight, anybody that can
fill me
> in on what to expect and what might be needed to repair?
> 
> 
> David Booker
> Atlanta
> 
> '69 442 Conv (w/w/w 400 AT mint)
> 
> 
> 

==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 13:41:06 EST
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: Re: parking brake

>Front wheels are locked? I always thought that the parking brake
>pulled the rear brakes. I have never seen em pull the front before. Am 
>I wrong here?

thats what i thought to.  What do you mean by snagged did it snap the line? Is
it stuck on constantly? Does the pedal just stay on the floor when you pull
the brake release?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 12:42:03 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: parking brake

> I always thought that the parking brake
> pulled the rear brakes. I have never seen em pull the front before. Am
> I wrong here?

You are right, the parking brake should pull the back on a 69, at least 
it does so on my 68 and all cars I ever was getting underneath (those are 
all built before 84 though, this may be different on all disc brake cars 
of a newer year)
In reply to what will be needed to fix this: See why it locks. In the 
worst case you may have to get in the back drums but no reason comes in 
my mind why this problem will be lotsa work or cash. 

Regards, George 

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 11:59:33 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Battery in Trunk - ideas?

I have done it and found it fairly easy. One prob... You need to drill holes in
the trunk for the battery restraint. As far as the heaviest guage cable. I am
using 2 guage. Works great. Got it from Autozone for about 20 bucks, but really
good stuff. The cable I got in my kit had the ends that you have to crimp or
solder on and that wasn't very good... you can get a kit for under a hundres
bucks in summit, jegs, any other place that sells peformance/hot rod parts.
Infact, I THINK Kantor even has metal battery boxes... I bought the plastic one
for about 50 bucks if my memory works well... I like it, really looks like alot
of room that opens up in the engine compartment. Another suggestion is to get a
BIG battery. I am running 1000 amps and even with my small cable it was okay,
when I went to the big cable, it's just wonderful for the summer months and a
HOT engine!

Ben

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 13:58:48 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: parking brake

Snagged my parking brake cable and pulled it loose. Now the front wheels
are locked. I am gonna climb under there tonight, anybody that can fill me
in on what to expect and what might be needed to repair?
____________

Well, given that the parking brake actuates the _back_ brakes, I don't see
how the front wheels enter in to this.  As for repair (we are talking about
your 69, right?) it depends on what's broken.  There are four cables in the
system:  The front cable that goes from the parking brake pedal to about
the crossmember, the center cable, and one each rear wheel cable.  There
are also three "hooks" which hold the center cable up to the bottom of the
car; a large one (about 1/4" diameter rod) on the passenger side of the
tranny crossmember and two smaller ones (about 1/8" diameter rod) about
under the rear seat footwells.  These hooks may have been distorted or
ripped loose.  They are necessary for the e-brake system to work.  The
center cable and the two wheel cables have swaged-on tips which fit into
metal connectors to mate the center and wheel cables.  The center cable
also passes through a metal yoke which fits over the threaded end of the
front cable.  These threads are used to adjust tension in the cable.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 14:18:01 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: motor check stand

      Alright, I know SOMEBODY on the list has run a motor that was out of a
vehicle to test it. I have an Olds 350 I would like to test BEFORE going
through the hassle of putting it in the car (cost $50 complete) My idea was to
use the stub-frame from a Firebird (I happen to have one laying around) to
bolt the engine too, and some weight on the back end of the stub-frame, to
keep it secure. How much torque will it put out? I have never done this
before, and assume that a motor bolted to nothing will torque itself right
over, so I am trying to avoid this of course. Any thoughts, experiences that
are helpful? Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 13:27:56 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Oldsmobile FAQ

Does the FAQ ever get updated without the last revision description getting
updated as well?

I ask because I downloaded the following version:

V 4.1 Released 12/11/1997

a LONG time ago, and have learned SO MUCH from the list since then, that
when I go back to read the FAQ on the web I can't tell if the thing has
been updated or if I'm just more with the program. The revision number
available at 442.com is the same as listed above.

I guess another question is, "Does the FAQ ever get updated?"
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 13:33:12 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: motor check stand 

> vehicle to test it. I have an Olds 350 I would like to test BEFORE going
> through the hassle of putting it in the car (cost $50 complete) My idea was 
to
> use the stub-frame from a Firebird (I happen to have one laying around) to
> bolt the engine too, and some weight on the back end of the stub-frame, to
> keep it secure. How much torque will it put out? I have never done this
> before, and assume that a motor bolted to nothing will torque itself right
> over, so I am trying to avoid this of course. Any thoughts, experiences that
> are helpful? Dorian

Dorian, 

I understand right, that you need to test one single engine?

As far as I can see the hassle to get a test setup for bench-testing your 
engine will be the same or even more then putting the engine right in the 
car! That really is not that big of a deal and you would have to hook up 
electricity / cooling / fuel anyway on your stand. Also you run into the 
problem how to measure torque and what to put on that flywheel as a 
resistor...

Also, if the engine performs to your satisfaction you can leave it in the 
car! If it does so on a "stand" you will still have to put it in. 
If you don't trust your $50 Engine too much, better take it apart and 
rebuild it straight ahead.

Just my op., Good Luck 
George
- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 11:47:22 PST
From: "Robert Lavey" <rjlavey@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Battery in Trunk - ideas?

>As far as the heaviest guage cable. I am using 2 guage. Works great.
>Got it from Autozone for about 20 bucks, but really
>good stuff. The cable I got in my kit had the ends that you have
>to crimp or solder on and that wasn't very good.

If it was me (and it was!), I would contact M.A.D. Enterprises 
(www.mad-enterprises.com) and check into their 0/1 gauge cable.  It is a 
bit pricey (3.75 per foot + $10 for ends), but it will ensure that you 
have plenty big enough cable.

Their Start 'em Up Kit (remote solenoid) is also a _very_ good idea for 
battery-in-trunk situations: you do not really want live +12 volts 
running all the way from the battery in the trunk to the starter.

Bob

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 14:47:48 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Light Bulb Upgrade

In a message dated 11/19/98 10:29:52 AM EST, acg_o@hotmail.com writes:

<< nstall new 1156/1157 bulbs
 and wipe a little Vaseline petroleum jelly on the contacts  >>
That's a great suggestion. And for all other exterior bulbs, (signal, back-up
etc.) use a little white lithium grease to coat the brass part of the bulb to
prevent it from rusting or "freezing" in the socket. Much easier to change
them when you have to.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 15:09:17 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: motor check stand

In a message dated 11/19/98 11:42:30 AM Pacific Standard Time,
cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu writes:

<< I understand right, that you need to test one single engine?
  >>

Yes, as of right now..my friend and I go through LOTS of engines though, so it
would be a semi-permanent setup

<<As far as I can see the hassle to get a test setup for bench-testing your 
engine will be the same or even more then putting the engine right in the 
car!>>

     Except there is no worry about damaging the vehicle (god forbid) if the
motor slips or shifts during install 


<<you would have to hook up 
electricity / cooling / fuel anyway on your stand>>

      Use a battery to run it temporary, hose in the water neck for cooling,
and since the fuel pumps are there, use a suitable container (ie bucket) for a
fuel tank

<<Also you run into the 
problem how to measure torque and what to put on that flywheel as a 
resistor...>>

      Not worried about MEASURING torque..worried about it torquing itself
upside once it starts, if it's not bolted in. We just want to make sure no
lifter noise, smoke, etc.


<<If you don't trust your $50 Engine too much, better take it apart and 
rebuild it straight ahead.>>

     For others of you in a like financial situation, if a main bearing,
lifter etc. is bad, I can't afford to rebuild it anyway..just have to keep it
until I can. A correct rebuild would cost minimum $300 (absolutely guessing
here) and if I could pick up 6 motors for the cost of one rebuild, and ONE of
those motors was good, I would still have 5 motors for later use (I wish!) If
I'm going to rebuild a motor, I'll do it right, IF I have the money. You are
right there!  Thanks though, I appreciate the comments!  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 15:35:41 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: motor check stand

OK, a couple of thoughts.  First, I'm not sure what the F-car subframe buys
you.  You'll need the frame and motor mounts from a 403 Trans Am to adapt
the Olds motor, plus you still need a third support at the back of the
block.  A better (and easier to handle) solution would be to fabricate some
sort of stand that would attach to the motor mount bosses on the side of
the block and pick up some of the bellhousing bolt holes to get the third
support.  Note that while it is true that a motor sitting on the ground
will torque over, without a transmission and rear axle to torque _against_
, this force will be quite low.  Most commercially available engine run
stands look a lot like the angle iron storage stands you see available.
I've seen people simply support the motor on wooden blocks and run it that
way (I assume you won't be running it for very long.  In fact, a quick and
dirty stand can be fabricated from a couple of 4 x 6s or 4 x 8s - one under
each oil pan rail with a couple of cross pieces to tie them together.
Obviously, be sure the flywheel is clear of the wood and the ground.  If
you're really worried about the motor torquing over, make some sort of
outrigger going from the accessory bolts on the front of the head to the
ground.  One of these on each side will absolutely prevent any rotation.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 15:54:48 -0500
From: Jim Olson <jolson@edzone.net>
Subject: Re: motor check stand

Flahwheel? (flywheel for us northerners) 

We usually just wrap a rope around the durned crank pulley and hook it
up to ol' Betsy! Kick 'er in the rump and wheeeeeeeeeeeeee!!!!!

We don' hook up a flahwheel 'til the doggone thing barks and runs!

*chuckle*

Jim...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 13:16:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: motor check stand

Dorian,

When I was in school, we had an old F*rd 302 on a stand. All it
consisted of were pipes on each side, about 2 1/2 inches in diameter.
Then, there was a brace welded across that held the 2 pipes apart and
also gave a place to bolt the engine to. There were regular motor
mounts that attatched the engine to this brace. Then there was just a
make-shift exhaust put on it just to mellow the sound out a bit. The
stand wasn't much wider then the engine and it didn't have enough
torque to flip the stand or anything. Then again, this is F*rd we are
talking about, but, I don't see why your setup wouldn't work.




- ---DYeager535@aol.com wrote:
>
>       Alright, I know SOMEBODY on the list has run a motor that was
out of a
> vehicle to test it. I have an Olds 350 I would like to test BEFORE
going
> through the hassle of putting it in the car (cost $50 complete) My
idea was to
> use the stub-frame from a Firebird (I happen to have one laying
around) to
> bolt the engine too, and some weight on the back end of the
stub-frame, to
> keep it secure. How much torque will it put out? I have never done
this
> before, and assume that a motor bolted to nothing will torque itself
right
> over, so I am trying to avoid this of course. Any thoughts,
experiences that
> are helpful? Dorian
> 

==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 16:46:11 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: SB rear main seal

Joe...You and I see "eye-to-eye" on Mondello's prices/schemes!  I just get
nausious looking through his cataloge.  "Twice the price" is a fair estimate. 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 16:51:11 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Battery in Trunk - ideas?

    Mondello sells a rear mounted battery kit...If I remember right, it says"
FoMoCo" on the plastic housing and it only costs $450+shipping(non-cryogenicly
frozen cables though)...just a smart-a@@ joke Mondello fans!

Collyn Eastham

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 22:56:47 +0100
From: hezzo <442@swipnet.se>
Subject: Re: parking brake

I think when you snagged your cable the rear brakes just went in
and you got pressure because of to much braking fluid in head cylinder.
Thats my opinion.
hezzo
goteborg
Sweden
70 442 conv.

David Booker skrev:

> Snagged my parking brake cable and pulled it loose. Now the front wheels
> are locked. I am gonna climb under there tonight, anybody that can fill me
> in on what to expect and what might be needed to repair?
>
> David Booker
> Atlanta
>
> '69 442 Conv (w/w/w 400 AT mint)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 16:59:31 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: motor check stand

....haha...the big a@@ cam in my 330 would shake itself around on a little
lift like that. It would look like one of those gas powered dirt packers that
you see on HGTV.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 17:01:26 -0500
From: Roger Nienberg <s002rwn@discover.wright.edu>
Subject: Rear end

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    What would be a good rear end for a 69 cutlass S with a 350 4 speed. =
I'm kickin up the 350 with the eldelbrock performer RPM package which is =
suposedly a 396 Hp setup. =20
=20
Roger Nienberg
69' Cutlass S Convertible
90' Ch**y Camaro RS

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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; What would be a =
good rear end=20
for a 69 cutlass S with a 350 4 speed. I'm kickin up the 350 with the =
eldelbrock=20
performer RPM package which is suposedly a 396 Hp=20
setup.&nbsp;</FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Roger Nienberg</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>69' Cutlass S =
Convertible</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>90' Ch**y Camaro=20
RS</FONT></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BE13DE.3EA94260--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 17:09:46 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Rear end

>     What would be a good rear end for a 69 cutlass S with a 350 4
> speed. I'm kickin up the 350 with the eldelbrock performer RPM package
> which is suposedly a 396 Hp setup.
> 
One that works.  I'd suggest something around 3.42 if you're gonna do
any hiway haulin.  If it's just stoplight to stoplight, check out the
3.91's or the 4.33's.  Depends a lot on how you want to use this car.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 16:19:05 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Valve Covers

OK, raise your hand if you're tired of hearing about my smoking 307...don't
worry, I'm SICK of it.

I redid the passenger's side valve cover.  By "redid", I mean that I had
initially done the driver's and passenger's together.  Driver's is fine,
passenger's leaked by #2 cylinder (and possibly others).  I thought that we
did a pretty good job, but oh well.  So, I did it again.  I was very
careful of removing all old gasket material from the head and the cover,
and then I used the Fel-Pro cork gasket with the blue stripes on it.  Put
Permatex Blue RTV on the cover, put the gasket on the cover, put RTV on top
of the gasket.  Generally made sure that there was a sold blue barrier all
the way around the edge.

Installed the valve cover.  Chilton's said to torque to 36 INCH/LBS, which
is a stupid number, since I've never seen a torque wrench that small...I
just tightened the bolts until they seemed snug, and then did like a
quarter turn after that.

Went maybe 30 miles, and then started to leak again.  To investigate,
sprayed florescent yellow paint on the block, oil pan, and
manifold...confirmed that the oil on the manifold is coming from the valve
cover (as opposed to fuel pump, oil pan, rear main, etc.) in several
different places, twice under bolt holes, once in the middle of the cover,
and again by the #2 cylinder (the actual leak point is obscured by the air
distribution thing).  The forward leak is the worst, causing a goodly
amount of oil to run around the front lower leading edge of the block, run
onto the manifold on the upper block side, and start to make me and my
passengers sick.

I see three possibilities:

1.  SOMEHOW, the installation procedure was flawed (I don't think so, but
what do YOU think?)

2.  Head mounting surface is warped (how would this happen?)

3.  Valve cover is warped (I'm seriously leaning towards this one.  Would
completely explain two faulty installs, plus makes 	me look better...)

Does anyone have anything to offer to this?  I'm kind of pissed (to say the
least) about this problem not being fixed despite my concerted and exacting
measures to the contrary, and would really like to know if I'm missing
something (due to hard-headedness in just not wanting to admit fault, or
due to ignorance).

TIA,


- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 16:33:01 -0600
From: Gregory Howze <"ghowze@primary.net"@primary.net>
Subject: Engine rebuilders in St. Louis

I am trying to find anywhere/one that can rebuild my 350 for a 
reasonable price.  Does anyone know some places (besides Shreve) around
the St. Louis area?
Scott

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 16:42:30 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: garage space, long

To All, 

Running out of garage space, want to store 75 Cutlass in friends garage,
has roof and three and 1/2 sides, Double door, one door missing, right
where the car goes. Bought a custom car cover, supposed to be waterproof to
keep water out but also to let it breathe. Don't understand that one, but
it's a good one and damn expensive, garage has dirt or cinder floor. Some
snow may blow in, offered to build him a new door. No answer yet. Even with
the door I'm spooked!  75 is really looking good right now. Don't want the
underside to start to rust or mold spots on exterior. Did all the regular
storage things, changed oil, buffed and waxed, filled it up w/ juice for
gas, did the undercar thing at the local (expensive, Mondello) car wash.
Plan on driving the car every two weeks, ( weather permitting). Sister and
I own mom's house, mom lives there, have the 67 442 and V*ga stored there.
Sister is bitching about me ruining the value of the house, (Has no idea of
reality, she thinks it's a concept). Going to dump Vega, 442 IS DAMN SURE
staying there, it's heated. St Lou has an average of 45 to 65% humidity
during the winter months,  just scares the hell out of me to leave it
there, can't find anywhere else close. Anyone done this? problems?
Suggestions? You can reply privately if you please, TIA.

Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 17:45:04 -0500
From: David Booker <dbooker@mindspring.com>
Subject: parking brake

Yeah, Joe, it was the '69 442.

I was headed out,and late, when I made the first post.I am sure it is the
back brakes that are stuck. At the time it just felt like the front and I
was so pi**ed that I didn't stop to think that it would have to be the rear
brakes. duh.

I was backing down a drive and snagged a piece of wire cable (1 in a
million) with the mounting bracket that the cable runs through. It is (was)
on the right side of the chassis. Pulled the bracket completely off. Right
now I don't know what is damaged. I can see the cable hanging but it
appears to be still connected at both ends - I'll go under it tomorrow.

Thanks guys. Any other info would be welcome.


David Booker
Atlanta

'69 442 Conv (w/w/w 400 AT mint)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 17:49:59 -0500
From: David Booker <dbooker@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: parking brake

Joe, your knowledge is infinite! This is exactly what I needed. Looks like
a busy Saturday - what with fixing this mess and replacing a kinked fuel
line. However, it is certainly worth it!  Gonna be in the mid-seventies
next week and the top just HAS to go down. Thanks again




>Snagged my parking brake cable and pulled it loose. Now the front wheels
>are locked. I am gonna climb under there tonight, anybody that can fill me
>in on what to expect and what might be needed to repair?
>____________
>
>Well, given that the parking brake actuates the _back_ brakes, I don't see
>how the front wheels enter in to this.  As for repair (we are talking about
>your 69, right?) it depends on what's broken.  There are four cables in the
>system:  The front cable that goes from the parking brake pedal to about
>the crossmember, the center cable, and one each rear wheel cable.  There
>are also three "hooks" which hold the center cable up to the bottom of the
>car; a large one (about 1/4" diameter rod) on the passenger side of the
>tranny crossmember and two smaller ones (about 1/8" diameter rod) about
>under the rear seat footwells.  These hooks may have been distorted or
>ripped loose.  They are necessary for the e-brake system to work.  The
>center cable and the two wheel cables have swaged-on tips which fit into
>metal connectors to mate the center and wheel cables.  The center cable
>also passes through a metal yoke which fits over the threaded end of the
>front cable.  These threads are used to adjust tension in the cable.
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30


David Booker
Atlanta

'69 442 Conv (w/w/w 400 AT mint)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 14:46:36 -0800
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Keeping a car dry (Re: garage space, long)

Hi all,

Could a person use silica gel packets to help control moisture around or
in
a car?

Just wondering.

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 16:56:38 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Valve Covers

Brian, 
Sounds like rocker cover is warped, try to straighten with light hammer,
preferably brass, a good solid straight edge, a heavy one!, use it as a
block to hammer against. pick up a good inch # torque wrench at Sears for
50 bucks. tighten, warm up engine, retighten. Do it a couple of times, also
make sure bolts and threads are very clean and lubed lightly, do not fill
up bolt  holes with oil which would prevent correct tightening. Hyd. Lock! 
Good luck. Heads don't usually warp that much if any at all. Not on top
away.
- ------
> From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Valve Covers
> Date: Thursday, November 19, 1998 4:19 PM
> 
> OK, raise your hand if you're tired of hearing about my smoking
307...don't
> worry, I'm SICK of it.
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 16:51:02 -0600
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: Re: Rear end

Mike Rothe. wrote:
> 
> >     What would be a good rear end for a 69 cutlass S with a 350 4
> > speed. I'm kickin up the 350 with the eldelbrock performer RPM package
> > which is suposedly a 396 Hp setup.
> >
> One that works.  I'd suggest something around 3.42 if you're gonna do
> any hiway haulin.  If it's just stoplight to stoplight, check out the
> 3.91's or the 4.33's.  Depends a lot on how you want to use this car.
> 
> Mike Rothe


  I've got a 3:55 in my '65 442 right now and it's just fine on the
highway.  However, I do not take is coast to coast either.  But for 2-4
hours on the highway at 65, no problem at all.

  I had a '69 Mustang with 4:11 gears that I would occasionally take on
2 hour trips on the opn road.  Again, no problem.  I was also 19.

  I also had a '69 Mustang with 4:63 gears and took it on the highway
for 15 minutes once and only once.  I was 17.

 IMHO for what you're doing 3:42 to 3:73 is just fine.  Hell, I'm 32 now
and I'd swap for a set of 3:73 to 3:90 gears in a second.  Nothing over
4:11 though.  Those days are done.

 Point of reference, the Mustangs had 302's that I regularly brought to
6000-6500 rpm.  With the 4:11 gear I was at around 3200 rpm(can't be
sure of the speed as the speedometer was off due to the non-stock
gear.)  and kept up with traffic just fine.  The 302 had ported and
polished heads, headers, Edelbrock single plane intake, 750 vacuum
secondary Holley, and a Crane Fireball cam meant for a 351W( I believe
it was around .502 lift and 228 duration at 0.05".)


  All were/are four speeds.


 Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 15:00:40 -0800
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: parking brake

David Booker wrote:
 
> I was backing down a drive and snagged a piece of wire cable (1 in a
> million) with the mounting bracket that the cable runs through. It is (was)
> on the right side of the chassis. Pulled the bracket completely off. Right
> now I don't know what is damaged. I can see the cable hanging but it
> appears to be still connected at both ends - I'll go under it tomorrow.

Maybe I am off-base in my assumption, however, I will present it here.
In order to actuate the parking brake the lever is depressed causing a
tautness to the cabling which effectively locks the rear brakes.  If the
cable looses this tautness shouldn't it also release tension to the 
actuators on the brakes?



- -- 
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 18:05:51 EST
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: How to tell gear

I was wondering how I tell what type of gear I have in my car. Is there anyway
I can figure this out?
Thanks,
Jim McKeague

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 18:11:12 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Valve Covers

I definately think that it would be #3...warped valvecover...These things are
always being over tightened( I admit...I used to myself before I learned). You
- -may- be able to staighten these things out with a flat surface to lay the
valvecover on, and a set of body hammers, but be CAREFUL. You could do more
harm than good. I have a pristine pair of valvecovers that I might be
persuaded to donate.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 17:59:10 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Valve Covers

Brian,
This is painfully obvious but commonly overlooked.
Did you use a straightedge to check the mating surface on the valve
cover? Guaranteed to show any warpage.

Mark Hahn
75 Delta 88
Cincinnati, Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 18:02:24 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: garage space, long

Lou,

How about a nice big sheet of plastic over the dirt floor before parking
your car on it.
It's a cheap fix.

Mark Hahn
75 Delta 88
Cincinnati, Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 17:23:30 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Valve Covers

Brian, 
Better grab that offer...
Lou

- ----------
> From: GT5726@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Valve Covers
> Date: Thursday, November 19, 1998 5:11 PM
> 
> I definately think that it would be #3...warped valvecover...These things
are
> always being over tightened( I admit...I used to myself before I
learned). You
> -may- be able to staighten these things out with a flat surface to lay
the
> valvecover on, and a set of body hammers, but be CAREFUL. You could do
more
> harm than good. I have a pristine pair of valvecovers that I might be
> persuaded to donate.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 17:23:52 -0600 (CST)
From: Bryceman <bryceman@442.com>
Subject: Re: motor check stand

>also gave a place to bolt the engine to. There were regular motor
>mounts that attatched the engine to this brace. Then there was just a
>make-shift exhaust put on it just to mellow the sound out a bit. The

I think you would want to bolt up some kind of exhaust, even open headers.
I have heard that running an engine with out some sort of exhaust (i.e.
open heads) can cause valve warpage.

I have been considering this same kind of thing for a long time. My use
will be primarily for breaking in new 455s for the boat. I dont want to try
breaking the engine in on the lake and I have heard it's bad to run the jet
pump dry.

The best solution I have come up with so far is to use an old irrigation
stand. If you can find one that is set up for an Olds (they are all over
the midwest) everything will bolt right up.
Most of the irrigation stands have a battery box already. A radiator and
metal fan shroud could be easily mounted on the front uprights. Run a hose
from the fuel pump to a remote gas can or fuel cell and you are in business.
I was going to mount casters on the stand too so it can be moved easily and
double as an engine storage stand when not in use. With large castors on
the bottom of the stand, there will be enough clearance to mount a pair of
turbo mufflers. Align and bolt an old set of headers on the side of the
stand. Run flexible exhaust hose (like for inboard marine applications)
from the headers to the mufflers. This way you have a nice, self-contained
unit that is re-usable and safe. The trick is finding a suitable irrigation
stand.



Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Oldsmobiles!
J. Bryce Smith
Email: <a href=mailto:bryceman@442.com>bryceman@442.com</a>
Web: http://442.com

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1611
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