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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1622


oldsmobile-digest     Tuesday, November 24 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1622



Re: BB heads on a SB ?
Re: '83 Delta Ralleye Pak & Interior Question
Re: 455 blocks and TH-400 trannys
RE: BB heads on a SB ?
Re: Rear End checkout Q's
I don't want digest anymore
Olds EFI
Re: Nitrous & 455
Re: Bad URL send to Oldsmobile newsgroup
Re: rear geometry
Re: '83 Delta Ralleye Pak & Interior Question
Re: yet another carb question
Re: yet another carb question
Re: Olds EFI
Re: Signing off
Re: 70 Cutlass SX
Re: Bondo:Friend or Foe?
Good Oldsmobile Day... Bad Ch*vy day...
What do you think?
Re: What do you think?
Re: 70 Cutlass SX
Re: Good Oldsmobile Day... Bad Ch*vy day...
4-speed Vs. TH400
Re: Chev in olds
Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400
RE: 4-speed Vs. TH400
Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400
Re: '73-'77 Cutlass Specs   curb weight
shift indicator lens
RE: '73-'77 Cutlass Specs
Re: 1985 442 FOR SALE
Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400
Re: small block olds oil fill tube
Re: daytime running lights
Re: 455 Buildup
Re: car wont turn off
Re: daytime running lights
Re: 70 Cutlass SX
Re: Machine work prices
College days transportation
Re: Machine work prices
MONDELLO NATS
Re: daytime running lights
Re: Machine work prices
Re: daytime running lights
Re: shift indicator lens
Re: Machine work prices
Re: What do you think?
Winshield and other chrome trim.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 22:54:22 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: BB heads on a SB ?

Donny,

Sorry I didn't respond to this earlier, thought someone else would grab on to
this, but here's my $.015 (inflation, ya know):

The other possible problem you'll run into is the overall larger combustion
chamber will drastically lower your compression ratio, even with W-31 style
flat top pistons in a 350.  Now I know Dave Smith Engineering -(909) 371-7040-
can get just about any custom piston configuration you may want, but you'll
pay for them big time.  I'm going to take this route for the 350 I want to
build with the Edelbrock heads for my SCCA Solo II project car.

Hope this gives you some more info to consider, Take Care!

Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
ks7racing@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 23:59:21 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: '83 Delta Ralleye Pak & Interior Question

On Mon, 23 Nov 1998, Brian Ammons wrote:
> What I DIDN'T get was the entire Left Hand dash piece (basically because it
> didn't fit in the tool box ;->), and in retrospect I think that would have
> been an excellent idea, because my '84s dash piece is all one piece - what
> I mean is, the piece with the guages was seperate from the LH dash piece on
> the donor car, and on mine the place where the guages would go is all one
> piece with the LH dash.

Yep, that's the way they are. You need both pieces. Maybe you should go
*buy* the outside piece... ;-)

> SO........I probably am going to have to find a LH, two-piece dash piece.
> Was this design pre-'84, or did it only come with the guage cluster, or
> were the guages only available until '83, or...

Available from '77 (I think) right thru to the end of production of the
big wagons of that style in 1990. Woodgrain pattern changed around 1980
though.

> On my first Olds, I went all up, down, around and through the dash, but now
> I can't remember HOW TO TAKE THE HEADLIGHT KNOB OFF!  

You need to take a small screwdriver and press it into a little slot in
the base of the knob. That releases a spring and lets you get the knob off
the shaft.

> If the wires were there (big IF, I know...), would the stock sensors (only
> idiot lights for volts, oil pressure and temperature) work with the guages?

Temp and o/p need different sensors. I think the volts just patches into
the existing wiring.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 23:13:43 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 blocks and TH-400 trannys

In a message dated 11/23/98 4:53:04 PM Pacific Standard Time,
b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu writes:

<< After reading it, I thought of a clearer way to ask this.  I wasn't
 speaking of one year/years in particular, but...
 
 Does a part of the same type (i.e., 455 cid block, Th-400 Auto Tranny) from
 a non-performance car/year (like a 1976 Delta) have the same performance
 characteristics as that type from a performance year/car (1970 442)?  >>

     From what I understand, from this list and my Tranny book, is that it
depends on application as to what internal charecteristics the tranny will
have. There is a code on the trnasmission that will tell you the relative
"strength" of the trans. However, all parts internal, to my knowledge, are
interchangeable. The major differences seem to be amount of clutches used, and
the speed and firmness of the shifting. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 23:16:58 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: BB heads on a SB ?

Thanks for the response Ken.
	I left a question out of my post :

	Couldn't a fellow with say a 70-72 350 replace his heads
	 with a set of BB heads as long as they were milled the 0.060" 
	(max per J.M.)?  
	 
	Wouldn't the BB chamber cc's be close to the SB chambers after the
milling? I had a set of "B" heads milled ~0.050" and they finished up at
73cc.

	How about a 403 head swap(4A to C)?
        
Ken wrote:
> The other possible problem you'll run into is the overall larger
> combustion
> chamber will drastically lower your compression ratio, even with W-31
> style
> flat top pistons in a 350.  Now I know Dave Smith Engineering -(909)
> 371-7040-
> can get just about any custom piston configuration you may want, but
> you'll
> pay for them big time. 
> Ken Snyder
> 
	Oh no... I sure don't want to pay out alot of $$ for doing this
crazy stuff on a SB when I could have built a BB for the same or less!
(plug for Joe P.) 

	Thanks 
	Donny
	 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 23:18:50 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rear End checkout Q's

In a message dated 11/23/98 4:38:39 PM Pacific Standard Time,
w.d.arnold@lmco.com writes:

<< Can I set it up 'close enough' by just setting the ring to pinion
 > backlash?  'Close enough' meaning that it shouldn't fly apart.
 > I'm pretty sure I can get the pinion depth pretty close by looking at the
 > wear pattern with some grease or paint. 
 > 
 > And since they are used gears, can I just match the wear pattern and be
 > good to go?
 > 
 > Thanks,
 > Donny >>

     Who was the original poster? My, to some, horror story is about my '78
rear axle. The pinion bearing in one was bad, so I took the posi differential
out of the bad one, put the ring gear out of the good one on it, and slapped
it into the good rear axle case. It was kinda hard to fit in, but I just
forced it : ) It had been run up until i took the engine out. Maybe I was just
lucky.    Dorian
                                                                              

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 23:01:45 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: I don't want digest anymore

I have lost my "how to" sheet and would like to know if anybody knows how to
get this list in a Non-Digest form.   Lemme know what I got to do please,
because I think I will get more out of it, if I can just use the delete button
instead of scrolling through the whole thing.

Thanks, 
Bill K
72 442 conv, just a lot modified

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 22:24:48 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Olds EFI

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Looking through the December issue of Hot Rod they have
a big cover section on EFI.  After sorting through the usual tangle
of Chevy TPI junk I ran across an article where they put an=20
Accel/DFI system on a Hemi Dart.  They modified a dual 4bbl=20
intake for the injector bungs, tacked them in with a heliarc spotweld,
and sealed them with epoxy.  They used 2 throttle bodies and all
the Accel wiring and computer.  My thinking is that if it would work
on a Hemi it would work on an Olds.  Has anybody else considered
this or had any experience with the Accel units?  From what the=20
article says they made enough power after the conversion to toast
the trans.  Imagine a 455 with Multi Port!

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme
=20

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<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Looking through the December issue of Hot Rod =
they=20
have</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>a big cover section on EFI.&nbsp; After =
sorting through=20
the usual tangle</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>of Chevy TPI junk I ran across an article =
where they=20
put an </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Accel/DFI system on a Hemi Dart.&nbsp; They =
modified a=20
dual 4bbl </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>intake for the injector bungs, tacked them in =
with a=20
heliarc spotweld,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000>and sealed them =
with=20
epoxy.&nbsp; They used 2 throttle bodies and all</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>the Accel wiring and computer.&nbsp; My =
thinking is=20
that if it would work</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>on a Hemi it would work on an Olds.&nbsp; Has =
anybody=20
else considered</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>this or had any experience with the Accel =
units?&nbsp;=20
From what the&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>article says they made enough power after the =

conversion to toast</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>the trans.&nbsp; Imagine a 455 with Multi=20
Port!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Mike B<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:mbloomer@gateway.net">mbloomer@gateway.net</A><BR>ICQ#=20
19113713<BR>72 Cutlass S (RIP)<BR>68 Cutlass=20
Supreme<BR>&nbsp;</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 21:28:20 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Nitrous & 455

>Geez Igor....the 455 already roasts rubber at the touch of the
>go-pedal....how much more ya want???


It has enough power down low, but after about 2800 it needs more.  I guess a
better cam would be needed, but just exploring my options.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 23:38:59 EST
From: Sprotten25@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bad URL send to Oldsmobile newsgroup

sorry ya'll i will try again i am just learning this link stuff  
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/sprotten25/page/OLDS.htm">Sprotten25's Page
</A> 
try this one please

Dino
69 cutlass
79 monte carlo 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 22:43:04 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: rear geometry

Bob,
I also just ran across an Art Morrison complete kit that is even more
adjustable.  The upper bars are adjustable in length and in mounting
location to the housing.  NHRA legal in stock eliminator too.  Check 
it out at http://www.artmorrison.com/ and look under "bolt on" on the
left under GM A bodies.

>Mike B
>mbloomer@gateway.net
>ICQ# 19113713
>72 Cutlass S (RIP)
>68 Cutlass Supreme
>
>>Where might I buy some upper bar relocators? adj.length tubular bars? Do
>>ya think the air bags work well with this set up? Sounds like these 3
>>modifications may be my ticket to better traction. I`m considering a
>>mild converter as well. Any suggestions? Any handling drawbacks to these
>>mods? Thanks to all for your responses.
>>
>>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 23:38:20 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: '83 Delta Ralleye Pak & Interior Question

While it is possible to modify the existing LH dash cluster to take the gage
panel, it is far easier to get the correct piece.  You would need one from
an '82 or later car.  (Prior years had the wiper switch on the dash instead
of the column mounted stalk.)

A small straight screwdriver is used to release the headlight knob.  Line
the narrow side of the blade up with the notch on the rear of the knob and
apply pressure towards the front (away from the dash) to release the clip.

Stock sending units on non gage cars are for idiot lights only.  You will
need new senders.  If you want to save money, try getting the ones off the
donor car.  Otherwise, buy new AC Delco senders.  You will need an extension
piece to allow the larger oil pressure sender used with gages to cear the
intake.

It is possible, but not very likely, that the wiring is present in your car.
It is not too hard to wire up in any event.  All you need is a wire to each
sender, switched 12 volt, ground, and the dash light circuit.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 00:06:28 -0200
From: BRIAN SHANKLE <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: yet another carb question

No, I'm not one to give up, although I do talk myself in and out of
selling that car most every week.  I know the ticking sound you speak
of.  A friend and I were observing those last week.  We wondered what
they were an dnow I know--thanks.  Trouble is, his car works fine and I
know we heard his click, but mine doesn't work fine and I am left to
wonder whether mine clicked or not, at lkeast until tomorrow afternoon. 
At any rate, you are the second person to metnion fuel in the
evaporative canister.  I can't remember right off hand which canister is
the evaporative one, but it is easy to find out....5 min. with Mr.
Chilton should do it.  I will check all that tomorrow.
thanks,
Brian.

Dave Cullen wrote:
> 
> OK Bri....so you have trouble code 45, rich mixture.
> 
> Factory manual says :
> 
> Listen to the carburettor during the diagnostic self-test (test pins A & B
> shorted, that's where you see the Check Engine light flash). During the test
> the mixture control solenoid is excersized, and you will hear a definite
> clicking sound comming from the carb.
> 
> No clicking means trouble with the mixture control solenoid (MCS). Trouble
> codes 23 and 54 indicate electrical problems (wiring or open solenoid
> winding). No code 23 or 54 means the solenoid is stuck or broken.
> 
> Changing carb is easiest fix, although the solenoid is available as a std
> replacement part at auto parts stores. Requires disassembly and lots of
> care. I've done it.
> 
> If you hear the clicking, the MCS is working, so something is overpowering
> the computer's ability to control mixture.
> 
> Possible causes:
> 
> 1) Oxygen sensor contaminated with silicone. Can happen if you use RTV as a
> sealant on anything in the inake or exhaust system. Even a new sensor can be
> destroyed if exposed to silicone fumes.
> 2) Purge or bowl vent valves leaking. (Sorry, dunno what that means).
> 3) Fuel in crankcase.
> 4) Fuel in evaporative canister
> 5) Sticking metering rods inside carb.
> 
> If the problem points to the MCS or carb itself, the Monte carb may work for
> you. Make sure the idle screw plugs have been removed so you can reset idle
> mixture afterward.
> 
> Don't give up.
> 
> drc

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 00:07:14 -0200
From: BRIAN SHANKLE <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: yet another carb question

I forgot to ask where you got that info..Sounds like a heck of a lot
better source than I have, unless I just haven't read that section of my
shop manual!
Brian.


Dave Cullen wrote:
> 
> OK Bri....so you have trouble code 45, rich mixture.
> 
> Factory manual says :
> 
> Listen to the carburettor during the diagnostic self-test (test pins A & B
> shorted, that's where you see the Check Engine light flash). During the test
> the mixture control solenoid is excersized, and you will hear a definite
> clicking sound comming from the carb.
> 
> No clicking means trouble with the mixture control solenoid (MCS). Trouble
> codes 23 and 54 indicate electrical problems (wiring or open solenoid
> winding). No code 23 or 54 means the solenoid is stuck or broken.
> 
> Changing carb is easiest fix, although the solenoid is available as a std
> replacement part at auto parts stores. Requires disassembly and lots of
> care. I've done it.
> 
> If you hear the clicking, the MCS is working, so something is overpowering
> the computer's ability to control mixture.
> 
> Possible causes:
> 
> 1) Oxygen sensor contaminated with silicone. Can happen if you use RTV as a
> sealant on anything in the inake or exhaust system. Even a new sensor can be
> destroyed if exposed to silicone fumes.
> 2) Purge or bowl vent valves leaking. (Sorry, dunno what that means).
> 3) Fuel in crankcase.
> 4) Fuel in evaporative canister
> 5) Sticking metering rods inside carb.
> 
> If the problem points to the MCS or carb itself, the Monte carb may work for
> you. Make sure the idle screw plugs have been removed so you can reset idle
> mixture afterward.
> 
> Don't give up.
> 
> drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 22:07:01 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Olds EFI

Yeah, I've thought alot about it since I got that mag about 3 weeks
ago.. Really made me think. I am by no means a machinist, but good at
math/geometry/physics. I would love to first, have the extra money to
work it, then have a stock intake or two to experiment with first before
putting it on my aluminum intake. Really looks like it would be easy to
set up, but if you read it more there are some problems you encounter.
First, is the EFI have LONG plenum/runners to accelerate the air before
being misted with fuel (gotta go for the victor or full tunnel ram to
get that long runner and full effect)
second, is the angle at which you place the injectors. You have to get
out your engine diagrams, slide rules, cad programs, what ever it is
that pleases you and find the right angle to inject the fuel at. It is
actually injected towards the center of the intake valve and has to be a
specific distance from the valve to get the right spread of the
injection of fuel.
third, is to find somebody with a computer that can link up and
reprogram the ECU to inject for the optimum length AND to re-arange the
firing order of the injectors so that they fire when the valve is
open/openning.
I think this last problem is the biggest one. Finding a good
hotrodder/perfomance mechanic with the expensive/right equipment to
reprogram the whole setup just for the olds. If you can find the parts
in a junk yard, use big injectors, supply the fuel pressure needed, and
finally the guy to program it and do all the machining/mechanical
yourself you are probably looking at more cost than the Holley
ProJection... They did list a truck application that would work for a
strong 400, but again it was Ch&vy and that would mean major computer
work to set it up for olds...
Would LOVE to do it for economy and not to mention the awesome
performance increases, but money wise it's not worth while at this
moment for me. If I had a huge junkyard at my disposal for free, then
I'd be doing it as we speak.

Ben, Just my thoughts as usual...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 23:19:40 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Signing off

Hope everything turns out OK. Is there anything we can do to help??
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Signing off
> Date: Monday, November 23, 1998 4:02 PM
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> I am going through some personal problems right now so I am going to
> sign
> off the list to clear my mind.  I don't know if I am going to sign back
> on
> at a later date.
> 
> Later...
> -- 
> Chris Sparks
> 68 442 SC - Frosty
> 68 442 HT - Scarlet
> 68 442 HT - Saffron
> 82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
> http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 00:15:10 EST
From: DEOVIVERE@aol.com
Subject: Re: 70 Cutlass SX

In a message dated 98-11-23 22:15:49 EST, you write:

<< Once again I shall employ the collaborative genius that is the List.
 There is a guy down the street that has what I believe to be a 70 or 71
 Cutlass SX.  Its in rather nice shape, but has telltale signs of an
 older resto/paint and so on.   >>

Dan -

I've bought two SXs, one a 71 and the other a 70.  For the 71, I paid about
$5500.  It was in good shape, some bondo in the quarters, a very nice paint
job, re-built stock engine, no performance options, 110,000 miles.  I'd say a
solid #3 car that cleaned up very nicely with some indepth detailing.  I think
I sold it for $6000.

The 70 I bought for $10,000.  It has all the performance options (dual gate,
ralley pac, W-32 motor and tranny, OAI system, aluminum differential cover,
etc), a very subtly built engine (more on that in a minute), 48,000 miles.
With new paint, some indepth detailing and replacement of a couple of parts,
the car has a shot at becoming a #1 car.  

Oh yes, and also a complete engine rebuild.  I spun a rod bearing in the
Spring and upon inspection, it turns out that the engine needs the full
treatment (how that happens after only 48,000 miles is a question I'm still
scratching my head over).  It's sitting in my garage awaiting the day when
I'll get it done.  Right now, as a brand-new first-time homeowner, I've got
other things on my mind that have to do with working wood rather than metal.  

But anyway, that's not what you wanted to know.  I'd say that $6000 is high,
especially with the non-original motor.  Has it been rebuilt?  How's the
paint?  Suspension?  Sheet metal?  My guess is that we are probably talking in
the $4000 range.  

Tom Simmons

65 Cutlass
70 SX W-32
Jet Table Saw

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 16:54:12 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Bondo:Friend or Foe?

One of the big problems people have with Bondo and other fillers are
improper use.  Either it is not mixed right or not applied right.  I had one
fender that was a "practice" piece that was welded together from 4
pieces and had about a 3/4" of Bondo in it.  Drove the car around with
primer on it for about a year and then painted it.  After another 3 years
the car was wrecked and bent the part of the fender with the Bondo
and still didn't pop it out.  The key is to mix it so that you have plenty
of hardener in it (better to have more than you need than less) and to
completely rough up the surface your applying it to.  Also you need to
apply it in thin layers with a rough surface in between.  The other place
people mess up is to apply filler over rust without sufficiently eliminating
it.  If you leave any rust at all under the filler it will come back and the
filler won't have anything to stick to.  The majority of problems with
moisture entering the filler though is because not enough hardener was
used to cure it in the first place.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>
>I've been told the amount of moisture they attrach is proportional to
>the amount of talc they contain.
>
>One thing to remember: all body fillers will attrach moisture, so don't
>leave the car out, or drive around in the rain! All primers (except
>exotic stuff) don't provide a moisture barrier either.
>
>My 2 US cents.
>--
>David Brown

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 00:57:49 -0500 (EST)
From: zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu
Subject: Good Oldsmobile Day... Bad Ch*vy day...

Hello all...

Whew... finally got done deleting all the mail from the weekend... I'm
always amazed at the way these mailing lists I'm on coincide... seems
there was this chap on the Pontiac list that decided to leave the list...
actually because there wasn't ENOUGH on-topic posts... anyways... it
generated as much or more mail as this whole N*va thing has.  Between that
and a busy week elsewhere I just had to weed through about 800 messages!

It's been a very mixed weekend for me... Saturday morning (coincedentally
the morning after those accident pictures were posted on this list) my
best friend was involved in a VERY serious accident in his '98 S10.  He's
OK... NO thanks to Ch*vy though!  A full size Ford locked its brakes up
stopping in front of him... and he hit it... hard... bent the frame and
damaged the cab... part of the engine came through the center of the
firewall.  He was wearing his seat-belt... but for some reason... he says
that the belt did not catch!  Along with this... neither passenger nor
driver side air bag deployed!  After an accident rough enough to bend the
frame!  Don't know what kept him from going through the windshield except
perhaps God!  His arms went through the dash (which is designed to brake
away in an accident) and he got some cuts and scratches... he bit through
his toungue on impact but it's about healed now... and that was the extent
of his injuries.  You can see a pic of his truck just before the accident
(he's only had it for 2 months or so) at
http://www.geocities.com/Athens/4468/oldsmobile/98s10.jpg

I mention the air bags for those of you who might own one of these newer
cars... don't depend on them!  Also... check your seat belts to be sure
they catch upon rapid deceleration!

Now for the Oldsmobile part of this message.  First off... I finally came
to the conclusion that the 260 in my '79 isn't about to die (these
d*mn motors are friggin indestructable arent they?) I even installed some
new spark plugs... finally... didn't want to go to the expense if I didn't
have to... runs much better... still haven't changed the oil yet (I do add
about a quart a week though).  Am planning on driving the '79 to D.C. just
before new years as is (anybody live in the area?).

One cool thing that happened with the '79 today... went through the
drive-through at Krystals (only fast-food open after 10pm in Johnson City
other than Taco-H*ll) and the guy at the window told me he liked my
Cutlass... I was thrilled.  This is the FIRST car I've ever owned that
get's comments like this... even with the motor tickin' and going on!
Real Cool.

Might have found one h*ll of a bargain too!  Was at a local tire store
trying to find a 15' SSIII to complete my set... guy mentioned he just
traded a 4 speed out of a Chevy for something... I asked him if he
happened to know where I could get a 4 speed that would bolt to an Olds
motor... he said no... then he thought for a minute... "well... my
brother's got this car... it's got a 4 speed.  It's a 1969... W-something
or other."  I'm getting excited at this point... even though it's obvious
that this particular Ch*vy man doesn't know what the h*ll a W-car is.  He
continues... "30... maybe that's it... a W-30..." I nod my head "has a
big-block in it"  Getting REALLY excited now... ask if he'd sell it.
"Well... he said something to me about selling it for a grand..."  I ask
him if he's sure it's the real thing.  "Well... I don't really know
nothing about an Oldsmobile... it's a 4 speed car... it has a 350 in it
now... he pulled the original motor to rebuild it and never has gotten a
chance... body's in pretty good shape."  I'm almost jumping up and down
now but control myself... ask him if the original motor's still complete
ask him about the heads... "Well... I don't reckon' he's done anything to
it... last I saw it was in the garage and hadn't been touched."  If this
car is the real thing... I'd gladly put myself in debt up to my eyeballs
and pay 1,000 for it!  Actually I need to get a student loan this next
semester anyways... and who says I can't use it to get some... ahem...
transportation.  What are some tips for identifying a true 1969 442 W-30?
What heads should the motor have?  What are some good identifying points?
I'll print out the section of the FAQ on W-30's later tonight.  Left him
my phone number and told him to call me.  Will probably stop by again to
be sure he understands I'm interested on Wednesday ;-).  Oh... he had the
15" SSIII too... really liking this tire store... only charges 4 bucks
each to mount and balance too... couple of good-ol-boys... they were even
open on Sunday ;-).

Just thought I'd tell you all the good... and bad... news.
Tell me what-cha think.



    |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
   /|\       Clayton Pierce,
  / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
 |  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
 |  |  |     
 |  |  |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
 | / \ |     
 |/   \|     1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
  \   /         (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
   \ /          http://www.442.com/pierce.html
    |        1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass Brougham
		(parts car) (307, 4bbl, TH350, 2.14:1, 90k miles)
	     1980 Rover 3500 SD1
	        (215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
     	     1979 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
		(260 V8, 2bbl, TH350)
		http://www.geocities.com/Athens/4468/oldsmobile/olds.html
	     1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
		(389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 00:50:00 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: What do you think?

My 72 442 is being completely repainted. We have the front window out and
the dash is out. I was thinking of painting the metal portion of the dash
and the steering column the color the car is being painted(quasar blue). I
know factory did not due this. THe metal dash and steering cloumn were the
color of the interior. Do you think this will look good? 

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 01:03:10 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: What do you think?

What color is the interior?

At 12:50 AM 11/24/98 , you wrote:
>My 72 442 is being completely repainted. We have the front window out and
>the dash is out. I was thinking of painting the metal portion of the dash
>and the steering column the color the car is being painted(quasar blue). I
>know factory did not due this. THe metal dash and steering cloumn were the
>color of the interior. Do you think this will look good? 
>
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
> 
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 02:23:18 -0500
From: dgerow@student.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: Re: 70 Cutlass SX

Tom -

    Thanks for the good word on the SX.  I agree, even in my neophytness that
$6000 is high.  All I know at this point in time is that the car came from
Alabama.  The underneath is rather spotless.  New dual exhaust system...nice 
and
shiny, no telltale rust.  Motor is not a rebuild, with 100,000 on it, I think.
The body has no bondo or mud, it's, from what I'm told, all original metal.  I
went around and knocked where I could and it sounded right.  The paint is 
great,
except for a few spots where it's just gone.  There are 3 major sport, all 
about
1-2 inches in diameter where the paint is just gone.  Granted they are small, 
but
they warrant a new paint job.  I no nothing about the suspension or anything
else.  It has buckets with a colum shift, becaus someone liked it that way.  
The
linkage on the tranny has been set up for the orig consol, which does not come
with the car.  I really like it, but I don't wanna get screwed (who does?).  
I'm
thinking I won't risk my Gr*nd Pr*x unless it's realy worth it.  For she is my
meal ticket.  Thanks again for the info.

Dan Gerow
'69 4-4-2
'71 Cutlass Supreme
- --
- ---------------------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
WSHL General Manager
http://www.stonehill.edu/wshl
http://www.stonehill.edu/~dgerow
- ---------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 00:53:19 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Good Oldsmobile Day... Bad Ch*vy day...

Get it even if it is just a good Cutlass.  W-30s are more desirable, but any
cutlass of that vintage is awesome.  Getting a student loan and buying a
car!  I thought about it last year, but ended up with enough money (thanks
mom & dad).

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 01:29:36 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: 4-speed Vs. TH400

What was/is the real difference and advantage/disadvantage of the 4-speed
manual and Th400 auto transmission behind a BB.  Is the manual faster?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 23:10:52 -0500
From: "jlabay" <jlabay@neo.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Chev in olds

I have pics at: http://home.neo.lrun.com/jlabay/72Cutlass/
Again the quality isn't great but you get the idea. I have no engine pics
yet, but I do have the Chrysler Le Baron keather buckets shown in picture
#5. Also the red mirrors are p ower units from an 86 Trans Am.  Right now
the car is stripped of all the chrome and moulding in prep for body work
and a paint job.

Jason Labay (jlabay@neo.rr.com) Akron, OH
98 C2500
80 Olds 442 W-30
72 Cutlass Supreme drag car project
88 GTA




>hey, jason. how about some pics of that 72 supreme?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 03:43:02 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400

In a message dated 11/24/98 12:31:27 AM Pacific Standard Time,
igor455@home.com writes:

<< What was/is the real difference and advantage/disadvantage of the 4-speed
 manual and Th400 auto transmission behind a BB.  Is the manual faster? >>

     I think it is all subjective...I like a 4 speed behind anything, but
thats personal opinion..the 4 speed has better economy, even more so vs. a
non-locking automatic, but is tougher to drive fast than an automatic. USUALLY
fewer problems, as long as the manual is up to the task (no Saginaws please)
I think almost all manuals have a lower weight than an automatic too. Don't
forget one more gear than a 400 also. Plus, the best reason, because it's fun
to drive a fast manual transmission car! Of course, all my opinions, feel free
to rake me over the coals about this.   Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 04:44:51 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: 4-speed Vs. TH400

4 speed over an automatic? I want one. A 5 speed even better. Still looking
for a pedal assembly etc. from a G-body El Can*no. Local Chev* dealer wasn't
any help. Maybe it was the Tobacco he was chewin that got in the way of my
understanding. Any rate. If I can get my hands on a complete setup, I'll
have re0plicated the whole shebang, slightly different of course. I don't
think an adapter for the bell housing will be any major problem. Seems
enough people always with a block apart that there can get their cranks
drilled for a pilot bearing. Am I asking to much for a complete setup to
replicate. Common there scrap yard dwellers. Start looking through those El
Can*nos for me. PLEASE. I'm sending to both lists as this could be broad
based enough to warrant it. Please contact directly when you find one or if
you would like a set when there produced...    :-{0}

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
(518) 622-0376
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

ICQ# 5209322 = "CC-IROC-SS"
Personal ICQ Communication Center:
http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322

Custom Conversion Proto-type:
CC-IROC-SS-#00001 =  "Quincy"
http://members.tripod.com/CC_IROC_SS/
Soon to be: www.CC-IROC-SS.com

The CC-IROC-SS Project Delphi Forum:
http://forums.delphi.com/m/main.asp?sigdir=CC_IROC_SS

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of DYeager535@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 24, 1998 3:43 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400


In a message dated 11/24/98 12:31:27 AM Pacific Standard Time,
igor455@home.com writes:

<< What was/is the real difference and advantage/disadvantage of the 4-speed
 manual and Th400 auto transmission behind a BB.  Is the manual faster? >>

     I think it is all subjective...I like a 4 speed behind anything, but
thats personal opinion..the 4 speed has better economy, even more so vs. a
non-locking automatic, but is tougher to drive fast than an automatic.
USUALLY
fewer problems, as long as the manual is up to the task (no Saginaws please)
I think almost all manuals have a lower weight than an automatic too. Don't
forget one more gear than a 400 also. Plus, the best reason, because it's
fun
to drive a fast manual transmission car! Of course, all my opinions, feel
free
to rake me over the coals about this.   Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 04:49:50 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400

In a message dated 11/24/98 1:46:19 AM Pacific Standard Time,
gjcouse@francomm.com writes:

<<  Am I asking to much for a complete setup to
 replicate. Common there scrap yard dwellers. Start looking through those El
 Can*nos for me. PLEASE. I'm sending to both lists as this could be broad
 based enough to warrant it. Please contact directly when you find one or if
 you would like a set when there produced...    :-{0} >>

     Gary, you won't like this, but I knew some people that had an 8?
something camino, that HAD a stick in it, which they REMOVED and presumably
discarded in favor of an automatic. And I assume this was a rare car, as it
was a GMC Cabalero (SP?) with ground effects, etc. Too bad I couldn't get
there in time.  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 02:02:43 -0800
From: "Marvin Friesen" <gowest@direct.ca>
Subject: Re: '73-'77 Cutlass Specs   curb weight

Went back to my Olds Dealer 1976 Competative Comparisons binder
to double check 1976 Cutlass S Coupe stats

opps   curb weight is 3751 and is probably based on the 250 6




- -----Original Message-----
From: mbloomer <mbloomer@gateway.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, November 22, 1998 8:51 PM
Subject: Re: '73-'77 Cutlass Specs


>The wieght on the title is normally the gross vehicle weight rating or GVWR
>which is a rating of maximum capacity not dry weight or curb weight which
>is "wet" (topped off with all fluids).  Differences in optional equipment
>will
>give you variances in actual vehicle weight so the best thing to do is to
>actually weigh the car but don't use a heavy truck scale since it is
>calibrated
>for much higher weights and when weighing a car can vary several hundred
>pounds.  Since you can't wiegh the car now set your figures on the 3571
>weight which may be a little low since you have a 455 but if you drop the
>weight by installing an aluminum intake etc, it should still be closer to
>the
>3571 than the 4200.
>
>Mike B
>mbloomer@gateway.net
>ICQ# 19113713
>72 Cutlass S (RIP)
>68 Cutlass Supreme
>
>>That's interesting. I've never weighed my 75 Salon, but the title says
4200
>>lbs. I think that sounds heavier than the truth, but those bumpers weigh
>>over 150# each by themselves. What gives? Does my car weigh in at 4200 or
>>3571? It has A/C and 455/T400. Any help would be appreciated. Weight is an
>>important factor when doing an engine build up. I'm in the middle of that
>>now so the engine is out of the car so I can't go weigh it.
>>
>>>1976 Cutlass S Coupe stats per Olds Dealer 1976 Competative Comparisons
>>>curb weight         3571 lbs
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 06:56:01 -0500
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: shift indicator lens

OK guys (and Lisa et el.),

            I am looking for a shift indicator lens for
the console in my 67' TH400 car.  Nice used
or repro maybe ?????


Tanks
The General

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 06:31:43 -0600
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: '73-'77 Cutlass Specs

I went to a grocery store warehouse, my 1976 Delta 88 Royale without driver,
1/2 tank of gas weighed in at 4860.  The car was long enough I had to weigh
the front axle and the rear separately!!  (124 in WB).  Remember, gasoline
is about 6-6.5 lbs. per US gallon.  So the 76 B/C/D cars with the 26 gal gas
tank can add some weight too!

Yes, they are VERY heavy cars.  US Grade "A" Steel!!!  Something new cars
have a hard time running into!

Sure, it is heavy and the fuel economy is less, but I would much rather
trust the health and welfare of my family in an old battle wagon or land
yacht like the 76 and older 88/98 chassis.

The 73-77 Cutlass is nearly identical to the 77-96 "B" and "D" chassis GM
used.  The "D" being a little longer.  Someone correct me but I think they
had the exact same wheelbase for the "A" to "B" cars in 77 and the Cad with
the "D" was a couple inches longer.  116 in?  A lot if not all suspension
parts like rear ends and such interchange.

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 08:36:27 -0500
From: "Frank Montero" <parc@erols.com>
Subject: Re: 1985 442 FOR SALE

NO THANKS. THANKS FOR THE OFFER THOUGH.

- -----Original Message-----
From: BRIAN SHANKLE <cshankle@home.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, November 23, 1998 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: 1985 442 FOR SALE


>Oh, I wish I hadn't bought that Brougham!  You don't want one, do you?
>
>Frank Montero wrote:
>> 
>> WHITE/GRAY EXT.
>> BLUE INT.
>> T-TOPS
>> EXCELLENT CONDITION
>> BEST OFFER TAKES
>> 
>> I CAN BE REACHED @ 516-373-4457
>> LOCATED IN SUFFOLK COUNTY, NY (LONG ISLAND)
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 07:52:06 -0600
From: <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: 4-speed Vs. TH400

Igor T. '81 DRB 455 wrote:
> 
> What was/is the real difference and advantage/disadvantage of the 4-speed
> manual and Th400 auto transmission behind a BB.  Is the manual faster?


All things being equal, a 4-speed car should be faster. The 4-speed has
more gear usually a better gear spread, takes less torque to turn over,
and transfers more power to the rear wheels, because (I know this is a
stretch for you 4-speed guys) once the clutch is released, it doesn't
slip and waste power like a torque convertor does. 

Here's where things become not equal. Hand, leg, eye coordination. The
4-speed car jumps me HARD on the launch (assuming he doesn't sit there
and spin:), but while he is fiddling with that stick/clutch thing, I
reach over and knock my auto into second and blow by him like he is
standing still. He spends the next 3 shifts trying to catch me :)

My opnion, 4-speeds are a lot of fun to drive when you are in the mood,
but when I am racing, I'll stick (no pun intended) to my auto.


Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme
.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 06:16:25 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: small block olds oil fill tube

On this subject, I have a story. I brought my 1970 Olds 350 in to a so
called "professional" to have the block baked. Well, when I got it
back, there was no filler neck. I went back to the shop to get it and
they found it in the garbage! This is the original tube and I would of
been ticked to of lost it. But, come to find out that they had taken a
pipe wrench or something similar and crunched the hell out of the
tube. I tried to straighten it out the best I could, but the bottom
that fits into the block was crushed pretty good. I got it to fit back
in there, but it does leak a little oil there now. So, don't use a
pipe wrench! ;-)

Now, my suggestion. Is there anyway you could get a slide hammer in
there and pull it out that way? I've heard of people using them to
remove the dipstick tube, why wouldn't it work with the filler tube?

Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 09:10:49 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: daytime running lights

Well, being the non-conformist of the bunch, I'd like to know how to
_disable_ the DRLs.  I just ordered a brand new Type-C crewcab dually, and
one of the first things I have to do is disconnect these ridiculous looking
DRLs.  Please, no sermons.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 09:13:04 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 455 Buildup

   They had AIR pumps all the way back to at least '66. For example, a '66
Olds F85 6 cylinder w/power steering, used the same pump as a '67 327
Camaro..however, there is no differentiation between CA and federal, so
maybe
only CA had them for a long time..Dorian
_________

Actually, my original post said that.  A.I.R. was CA-only in 66-67, then
went away for a long time on Oldsmobiles.  One easy way to prove that your
66-67 is an original CA car.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 06:20:21 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: car wont turn off

I had this same problem with my 69 Cutlass, but mine was due to owner
error. I had to completely rewire the car due to some ignorant fool
who put a 50 amp fuse in a 20 amp spot. Not to mention he also
bypassed some of the fuses also. But, what I had done wrong was that I
had wired the starter wrong which was feeding live juice back up the
wiring. Check to see if anything may have melted off that one wire and
could possibly be sending live juice back up another wire. Just a
thought!

Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 09:24:35 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: daytime running lights

In a message dated 11/23/98 5:19:21 PM EST, cshankle@home.com writes:

<< How much trouble was it/will it be to hook these lights up to your car?
 Mostly for curiosity's sake, but it sounds like a pretty cool thing to
 have and if I did decide to do it, that ain't a bad price for what you
 get. >>

Brian,
Pretty straight forward and because it's GM the color coded wires are
identical to GM cars!  You should use a volt meter to be sure.  Black is
ground.  Red is hot.  Pink tells the module when the ignition is turned on.
Tan wires goes to low beams for reduced wattage.  Yellow goes to both low and
high beam for full wattage at night time, brown goes to parking lights, white
(optional) goes to parking brake (signal activates when brake is released.
The module mounts under the dash with the sensor on the dash.  Comes with its
own 30 amp fuse.  As far as I'm concerned it's the best bargain in a long
time, Have fun.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 Conv. (duals, of course)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 09:22:59 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 70 Cutlass SX

One thing to be aware of on the 70-72 Supreme bodies is that the panel
between the rear window and the trunk lid is subject to rust from the
underside.  To check this, you need to get on your back inside the trunk
and look up at the underside of the panel.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 06:34:34 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Machine work prices

Awww, the joys of machine work! Well, I have a question about this. I
am in the process of tearing my baby back apart again. Since her
accident, I have some big plans for this car. The engine should be
ripped out this weekend due to some work I want to do in the engine
compartment. While the engine is out, I will also remove the heads. I
can't remember right off hand what # the heads are, but I remember
being told that they would be worth working. My question is this, I
want to port/polish/port match/mushroom the valve guide/pretty much
everything on the FAQ about heads. But, I would like to save a litttle
cash if I could by doing the port/polishing/port matching myself. Is
there some sort of book or manual on this? I have the basic idea, but
I would hate to screw my heads up! Any ideas on where I could find
some literature on this subject? Kinda like one of those,
"Do-it-yourself" project books.

Thanks,
Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 09:40:15 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: College days transportation

Igor T. '81 DRB 455 wrote:

(clipping and snipping)

>Getting a student loan and buying a
> car!  I thought about it last year, but .....

Actually  the applications for grants, student loans, etc makes
allowances for, uh, "transportation" as they consider that part of the
necessary college expenses.  It does not, however, specify what
"transportation" is.  :)

My transportation for my senior year at UK was a new 1970 Charger I
bought that summer.  First decent performance car I ever owned-383
Magnum 335 hp.  Unfortunately I couldn't find what I wanted that summer
for a reasonable price, a Cutlass conv.  My dad worked with the local
Dodge dealer part time and I got a very good deal on it so, being a poor
college kid, I bought it.  The local Olds dealer and Poncho dealers were
a LOT more expensive than I could afford at the time, so I bought what
was sharp, fast and sitting on the lot.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 08:33:58 -0600
From: <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: Machine work prices

Rock Man wrote:
> 
> Awww, the joys of machine work! Well, I have a question about this. I
> am in the process of tearing my baby back apart again. Since her
> accident, I have some big plans for this car. The engine should be
> ripped out this weekend due to some work I want to do in the engine
> compartment. While the engine is out, I will also remove the heads. I
> can't remember right off hand what # the heads are, but I remember
> being told that they would be worth working. My question is this, I
> want to port/polish/port match/mushroom the valve guide/pretty much
> everything on the FAQ about heads. But, I would like to save a litttle
> cash if I could by doing the port/polishing/port matching myself. Is
> there some sort of book or manual on this? I have the basic idea, but
> I would hate to screw my heads up! Any ideas on where I could find
> some literature on this subject? Kinda like one of those,
> "Do-it-yourself" project books.
> 
> Thanks,
> Del
> ==
> Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> rockman20@yahoo.com
> 1986 Honda Accord DX
> 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
> 1981 John Deer Snowmobile
> 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
> 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com


I believe that Mondello's tech manual for the Olds V8 covers porting.
http://www.tcsn.net/mondello/

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme
.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 06:45:20 -0800 (PST)
From: JAMIE VISTA UNDER CONSTUCTION <vistaboy71@yahoo.com>
Subject: MONDELLO NATS

HEY WHAT EVER HAPPENED TO POP. HOT RODDING'S COVERAGE OF THE MONDELLO
OLDS NATS ??? I SEEN THEY HAD THE US NATIONALS COVERAGE AND THAT WAS
AFTER MONDELLO'S EVENT.
THEY EVEN HAD A PHOTOGRAPHER THERE



JAMIE
71 VC 



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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 06:54:41 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: daytime running lights

> Well, being the non-conformist of the bunch, I'd like to know how
> to _disable_ the DRLs.  I just ordered a brand new Type-C crewcab
> dually, and one of the first things I have to do is disconnect
> these ridiculous looking DRLs.

Sigh... Okay, look in the area just behind the headlamps for a
large horseshoe-shaped ceramic resistor probably bolted to an inside
fender (check driver's side first). It'll have a two-wire pigtail
lead with an in-line plug. Unplug it. This way the next owner will
simply be able to plug it in again later. (This is the Bonneville
setup and I see no reason why yours would not be similar.)

> Please, no sermons.

None from me, although we're all curious to hear why you have to 
do this.

- -- Andy

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 09:55:44 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Machine work prices

But, I would like to save a litttle
cash if I could by doing the port/polishing/port matching myself. Is
there some sort of book or manual on this? ...Kinda like one of those,
"Do-it-yourself" project books.
_______

Try this URL:

http://www.sa-motorsports.com/diyport.htm

Keep in mind that they are trying to sell their abrasives products,
however.  FYI, Powerhouse Performance markets Standard Abrasives' products
and are slightly less expensive (go figure).

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 08:53:03 -0600
From: <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: daytime running lights

Andrew C. Green wrote:
> 
> > Well, being the non-conformist of the bunch, I'd like to know how
> > to _disable_ the DRLs.  I just ordered a brand new Type-C crewcab
> > dually, and one of the first things I have to do is disconnect
> > these ridiculous looking DRLs.
> 
> Sigh... Okay, look in the area just behind the headlamps for a
> large horseshoe-shaped ceramic resistor probably bolted to an inside
> fender (check driver's side first). It'll have a two-wire pigtail
> lead with an in-line plug. Unplug it. This way the next owner will
> simply be able to plug it in again later. (This is the Bonneville
> setup and I see no reason why yours would not be similar.)
> 

The DRL's can be disabled by removing the fuse for there circuit.
Consult the owner's manual for fuse location. It is an isolated circuit
and will not effect anything else.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme
'96 S-10 (no DRL's:)
.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 07:02:27 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: shift indicator lens

> I am looking for a shift indicator lens for
> the console in my 67' TH400 car.  Nice used
> or repro maybe ?????

Didn't someone on this list actually tool up and produce these
parts? This would have been over a year ago, I think; maybe
someone with archive files can dig up the details.

- -- Andy

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 09:58:58 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Machine work prices

...I believe that Mondello's tech manual for the Olds V8 covers porting...
__________

Actually, no it doesn't.  It provides generalities, but no really useful
information.  Similarly, I recently bought his porting kit, which is touted
to include a reprint of his Car Craft article on porting (Chevy!) heads.
The article was pretty worthless too, as it primarily talks about his
program where you send him the head, he ports one cylinder's ports, then
you match the others to the ones he did.  Again, not a lot of help.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 07:06:54 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: What do you think?

> I was thinking of painting the metal portion of the dash
> and the steering column the color the car is being painted
> (quasar blue). I know factory did not do this. The metal
> dash and steering cloumn were the color of the interior.
> Do you think this will look good? 

IMHO, it will look... oh, what's the technical term I'm trying
to think of here... "goofy".

Seriously, having the exterior color intrude on the interior
is the kind of thing you see in cheap econoboxes; it makes the
interior look kind of unfinished. I would repaint the way the
factory did it originally.

- -- Andy

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 24 Nov 1998 07:12:39 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Winshield and other chrome trim.

Well list, I am a man of many questions today! I have another
question. Last night I was out in the garage spending some "quality"
time with my baby and I got pretty much the whole front end torn
apart. Anyways, I was wondering if anyone knows how the heck the
chrome trim around the windshield comes off? I figured that I would
save myself some money by taking the old one out myself. (It has a
crack in it due to the accident) Any ideas how to get that trim off
without snapping the plastic clips in there? Also, how does the trim
come off that is right above the side windows....the drip edging. (Not
sure if that is what it is called) Any help? So far today, the porting
question has been solved. Thanks for all the usefull info! I am
soaking it all in!

Del




==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1622
*********************************

