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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1687


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, December 28 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1687



72 H/O stripes
RE: 72 H/O stripes
Re: Edelbrock Torker
5300LBS
Re: 72 H/O stripes
RE: 5300LBS
RE: 72 H/O stripes
Re: 5300LBS
Re: 468 Olds Hemi???
diesel stroker and other possibilities [long]
e-mail tech help needed
Re: Quad 4 and hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468 Olds Hemi???)
Re: 72 H/O stripes
Re: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468 
Re: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468 
Electrical Problems
Re: e-mail tech help needed
Muscle Car Review
Re: Electrical Problems
Re: Muscle Car Review
Re: Muscle Car Review
Re: e-mail tech help needed
Re: e-mail tech help needed
Re: e-mail tech help needed
Re: Electrical Problems
Re: Electrical Problems
steering wheel
Re: steering wheel
Re: '68 cutlass W-31
Re: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468
Re: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468
Re: W-30 STRIPES
HEI distributor info
Re: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468
Re: HEI distributor info
Re: Electrical Problems
RE: 66 4-4-2 Owners
Re: 5300LBS
RE: gifts
RE: Good News
Re: 66 4-4-2 Owners
Re: 5300LBS
Re: Rallye-Pac circuit boards
Re: 5300LBS
hello all
Re: 5300LBS
Re: torque vs hp, big inch diesel, amc
Re: 5300LBS
Re: Muscle Car Review
Re: Muscle Car Review(Nice Cars)
Re: HEI distributor info
RE: Electrical Problems
RE: 50 fastest US production cars
COLD light?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 14:04:08 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: 72 H/O stripes

Mark Tupper wrote
> Uh...hate to be the one to tell you (before Mike Rothe gets back), but you
> can no longer get OEM or NOS stickers for any G-body 442.

Uh, I really don't want to ask this question, but what about the stripe
kit for a 72 Hurst?  Last time I heard of a  NOS set being around it
would cost less to buy my house again. (Well, not really but a pretty
good chunk of change.)  Who has them now and for how much?  It is
possible I might get it back in driver status this coming year.

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 14:50:58 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: 72 H/O stripes

Don, 
Send one arm of your choice and your left leg to Bubba's Stripe Stripper's
and upon verification that the received arm and leg is indeed yours, they
will send you the stripe kit and a bill..... Just Kidding and no offense
intended to those named 'Bubba'.

Year One doesn't show a kit for the H/O.  Who else offers stuff like they
do?
 

> ----------
> From: 	Don Sowers[SMTP:dstaxpro@lex.infi.net]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Sunday, December 27, 1998 2:04 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	72 H/O stripes
> 
> Mark Tupper wrote
> > Uh...hate to be the one to tell you (before Mike Rothe gets back), but
> you
> > can no longer get OEM or NOS stickers for any G-body 442.
> 
> Uh, I really don't want to ask this question, but what about the stripe
> kit for a 72 Hurst?  Last time I heard of a  NOS set being around it
> would cost less to buy my house again. (Well, not really but a pretty
> good chunk of change.)  Who has them now and for how much?  It is
> possible I might get it back in driver status this coming year.
> 
> Don Sowers
> Nicholasville, Ky
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 15:02:28 EST
From: Knightvd@aol.com
Subject: Re: Edelbrock Torker

I have used a single plane Torker on my mild 455 with Q-jet.  The manifold is
better suited for high RPM horsepower.  I have since changed to a dual plane
Edelbrock and street performance is much better.  (broader power band)  The
dual plane is an older O4B which I think is very similar to the W-30 manifold.

Vince Knight

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 13:05:11 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: 5300LBS

Just yesterday I looked at the sticker on the door of my '81 Regency.  This
car is fully loaded but I was seriously disappointed to find out that it
weighs 5300LBS.  I found that figure to be too much so I went and weighed
it.  It came out 5350 LBS.  That means that my Delta is about 5000 LBS now
with the 455, TH400 and dual exhaust.  I thought about 4200 Max.  Are these
figures reasonable and also how heavy are mid '80s Cutlasses.  Christ, this
seems like tons.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 98 Regency (307/th2004r/propane)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 15:24:45 EST
From: Jon442@aol.com
Subject: Re: 72 H/O stripes

In a message dated 12/27/98 1:52:06 PM Central Standard Time,
w.d.arnold@lmco.com writes:

<< Year One doesn't show a kit for the H/O.  Who else offers stuff like they
 do? >>

Brothers has stripe kits for the '72, as well as pace car graphics.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 15:31:17 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: 5300LBS

      Igor "owner of the barge"  wrote;
> It came out 5350 LBS.  That means that my Delta is about 5000 LBS now
> with the 455, TH400 and dual exhaust.  
> 
Why a 350# deduction here? Passenger's weight?

> I thought about 4200 Max.  Are these
> figures reasonable and also how heavy are mid '80s Cutlasses.  Christ,
> this
> seems like tons.
> 
About 2 1/2 tons.
Most of the mid 80's Cutlasses I've seen weighed at the track came in around
3600 w/dvr.  These cars looked like they still had everything in them (
front and back seats, door panels, dash, etc. ). 

Where did you have your car weighed? Landfill? Sometimes those scales are
not very accurate because of the huge trucks that come through with weights
of 20000 + pounds.  Do you know of another place to take it for weighing?
Ask them about their scale calibration. Be careful here, I had one fellow
ready to hog tie me and throw me in the trunk.

I would suspect that 5350(or 5000) lbs is a little high.
You changed from 307 to 455, and 200metric to TH400, right?
The GVWR door is a RATED weight which is the car's weight + payload.  As
hashed out here on the list, should be in the neighborhood of 750# for a
passenger car.

I don't know the exact diffs in weights but, for the sake of debate:
 5300# (GVWR) - 750# + 200#(307 to 455) + 75#(200 to TH400)  ~= 4825#

My 72 w/455 and TH350 weighs 3770# , I weighed it at 2 different places to
be sure. ( Grain and Seed wholesaler and at the landfill)
  
Later,

Donny Arnold
w.d.arnold@lmco.com

72  Olds 442  
41 Chevy 
63 Chevy Truck

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 15:38:10 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: 72 H/O stripes

Some of you probably already know about this but, bear with me,

I just found an address for the internet at   www.paddockparts.com  It's
Paddock Parts of Redlands, CA
Do we have a rep for them on our list or has anyone had dealings with them?

They claim to have alot of Olds repro stuff.  I have not checked them out
yet.  My server is not up and running right now.
Somebody please check it and see if it's worth our while. 
D A

> ----------
> From: 	Jon442@aol.com[SMTP:Jon442@aol.com]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Sunday, December 27, 1998 3:24 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Re: 72 H/O stripes
> 
> In a message dated 12/27/98 1:52:06 PM Central Standard Time,
> w.d.arnold@lmco.com writes:
> 
> << Year One doesn't show a kit for the H/O.  Who else offers stuff like
> they
>  do? >>
> 
> Brothers has stripe kits for the '72, as well as pace car graphics.
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 13:14:47 -0800
From: "noelle r murphy" <MURPH2@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 5300LBS

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BE319A.E075E560
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

2.5 tons to be kind of exact
- ------=_NextPart_000_01BE319A.E075E560
Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head></head><BODY bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF"><p><font size=3D2 =
color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Arial">2.5 tons to be kind of exact</p>
</font></body></html>
- ------=_NextPart_000_01BE319A.E075E560--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 15:36:26 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: 468 Olds Hemi???

Joe, 
The 427 ran like a champ, was bad, 429 was a pooch, even the factory
couldn't get them to perform. Had one in town, factory support, never was a
contender. 
Lou
- ----------
> From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 468 Olds Hemi???
Don't forget that the Boss 429 Ford was also a true hemi head
> motor.  The 427 cammer was not, however.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 16:36:08 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: diesel stroker and other possibilities [long]

Donny,
    I really enjoy figuring out stroker combos. The 2.5" journal on the big 
Olds crank allows for a big
displacement increase through offset grinding. The Buick 455 rod[2.25" pin] 
can be used, although it is
short. The stock bb chev rod[2.2" pin] is really to short, but affordable 
aftermarket versions come in
6.7" and 6.8" lengths. The mopar 440 rod[2.375" pin] can also be used, but the 
pin size allows less
stroke increase than the others. Rods that are wider than the Olds rods would 
need narrowed, or the
Olds crank would need to be modified for a wider journal. Counter weight to 
bottom of piston clearance
can also be a problem with a short rod, as in the buick rod combo.

BTW the 6.7" and 6.8" bb chev rod is used in most of the popular 514" ford 460 
stroker kits.

  Divide the rod length by the stroke to get the rod/stroke ratio. This is 
what affects loads on the
cylinder walls.
   There are different ways to figure the required compression height with any 
combo, but i think the
easiest way is this;

stock stroke times .5 + stock rod length + stock c.h. = a given number
new   stroke times .5 + new   rod length + stock c.h. = a given number

   The difference in the two is the number you must subtract[or add] from the 
stock c.h.
A stroker combo can be a bit "higher" than stock, as most Olds' have quite a 
bit of deck clearance.
Most engine builders agree that a tight deck clearance has many benefits. Info 
on quench as well as the
c.h. of most popular pistons can be found at <http://www.kb-silvolite.com>.


   I think the bored and stroked 454" Diesel  kit that Mondello sells[or did] 
uses an 425 crank,
slightly offset ground to a 2.2" pin size/4" stroke, with a stock BB chev rod, 
and a special piston.
This kit has the same bore/stroke as a stock 454 chev.

  I've taken the diesel specs from Mondello's tech guide. I assume they are 
correct. Here's how i see
it.

                                             stock diesel;          stroker 
kit;

stroke                                             3.385"         4"
rod length                                         5.88"           6.135"[bb 
chev]
piston           c.h.                             1.770"         1.2075"
[.5 x stroke] + rod length + c.h. =   9.3425"       9.3425"

 Notes - i'm not sure what the stock deck clearance is on the diesel. This 
stoker crank combo requires
a bunch of "heavy metal" slugs to balance it. It would be a very expensive 
engine.

 Here are some other combinations that can[i believe] be done to add inches. 
Some are high buck. I have
figured the stroke increase on the stroker combos to be .020" less than what 
is theoretically possible;

473" 455[4.21"x4.25"]  +.085" overbore/455 crank/425 Olds rod/.+060 pontiac 
455 piston - pontiac piston
fits the olds rod. This would be a good high rpm combo, as the rod/stroke 
ratio is improved with the
425 rod. A KB # 222 or other pontiac piston may even have valve notches that 
would work?

482" 455[4.25"x4.25"]  +.125" overbore/455 crank/std bore TRW 427 BB chev 
piston with dome removed, and
olds rod's small end opened to .989"[custom pistons would probably be lighter 
than trw chev pistons].
YOU MUST USE A SOLID DOME chev piston. Hollow dome pistons cannot have their 
dome removed.

508" 455[4.25"x4.48"]  +.125" overbore/455 crank offset ground to 4.48"[2.25" 
pin]. Can use buick 455
rod, but this 6.6" long rod results in a poor rod to stroke ratio. Mondello 
uses the buick rod in the
"motorhome" stroker kits, with a smaller bore. Requires the counter weights to 
be ground to clear
bottom of piston. One could also use a "long" aftermarket pontiac rod[2.25" 
pin]

514" 455[4.25"x4.53"] + .125" overbore/455 crank offset ground to 4.53"[2.2" 
pin]. Must use 6.7" or
6.8" aftermarket bb chev rods [apx c.h needed would be 1.535" and 1.635"]. 
Note- these combo could use
a KB #224 and KB #204 pistons. They are flat top bb chev pistons.

384" diesel block 350  [4.25"x3.385] +.193" overbore/ 350 gas rod/stock diesel 
crank. Could possibly
use a std bore 454 bb chev piston, but why worry about saving a few bucks if 
you are building a diesel
based motor?

373"      gas350 [4.185"x3.385"] +.128" overbore. Can use +.060 425 piston 
[same c.h. as 350gas]. Does
anyone make a forged 425 piston anymore?

Note - you could use a rod with a 2" journal size, and offset grind the sb 
crank a bit, but the
increase would be minimal.

I recently asked for input on the 425 crank in the gas sb.  IF the main 
journals could be cut down to
fit the gas block, we could theoretically build a very big small block out of 
a 403 block. I think it
could be done, but I doubt the 403 block would take it.
4.391"[+.040"] x 3.975[stock 425 stroke] = 482".
4.391"[+.040"] x 4" [same stroke as the Mondello kits] = 485"
4.391"[+.040"] x 4.33" [.020" less than the largest theoretically possibly 
increase] = 525"

  This is fun.
Dave Brode
64 Cutlass
67 Chev pro street pickup- current project[will be Caddy powered, was 425 Olds]
non olds - the caddy's 2.5" journal can also be offset ground. =  a VERY big 
engine.

>
> From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
> Subject: Re: 425 Crank Question
>
> I know, I know,  I'm a few days behind on this thread but, I've been
> enjoying CHRISTmas with the family.
>
> I did some math on this possibility a while back and came to a few
> conclusions.
> 1.) Why build a stroked 350 or 403 when you could build a 455 for less money
>
>     AND have a *butt-load* more HP and T.
> 2.) Where could you find a 425 crank for small money?
> 3.) Pistons have to be special made( BIG money) just for your engine.
>
> Anyway here's the math...
>
> Using a 403 block (Not the best for the purpose but, if you're gonna do it
> get the biggest bore you can)
>
> With a 350/403, the CL of stroke to the top of the piston has to remain
> close to the same( an increase of piston height of 0.020" is about the max?)
> This dimension is stroke + rod length + comp height.(Right?)
> 403 = 7.615"
>
> Using a 403 with a 425 crank and 403 rods, the compression height has to
> equal 1.025" ..
>
> Using a 350 diesel rods, the comp. height = 1.139"
>
> And using 350 chevy rods, the comp. height = 1.325"
>
> Note for Mr. Brode.. I mean DAVE B.(sorry), are these possible with off the
> shelf pistons? or even possible at all?
>
> I'm not sure how much  it would cost but, I'd guess more than building 2
> 455's.
>
> That's my thoughts, what's yours?
>
> Donny Arnold
> w.d.arnold@lmco.com
>
> 72  Olds 442
> 41 Chevy
> 63 Chevy Truck
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 16:41:06 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: e-mail tech help needed

Hello all,
 My computer knowledge is very limited. I've noticed some [or all] of my posts 
are showing up with the
text being wider than the screen, requiring one to scan back and forth to read 
them. Can someone tell
me why? How do i fix this?
 Thanks.
Dave Brode

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 15:57:37 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Quad 4 and hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468 Olds Hemi???)

Dave, 
Had a 1971 "Hemi Cuda", believe it was the last year, Oh, they did have a
four valve, 2 spark plug head set up option for sale, All the fuel engines
you see are copies of the orig. "426", Keith Black, Miloden, etc. Alum,
modified, but the same basic engine design, amazing since it was designed
in 1963 in it's present form.  
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
- ----------
> From: Dave Cullen <david.cullen@snet.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468 Olds Hemi???)
> The 426 was last used in '71 I think. I know the Dodge Colt had a
4-banger
> with hemi heads, but I can't find the production dates on them.
> 
> drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 16:08:02 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: 72 H/O stripes

Don, 
No offense taken. 
Bubba

 Just Kidding and no offense
> intended to those named 'Bubba'.
> > From: 	Don Sowers[SMTP:dstaxpro@lex.infi.net]
> > Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 17:09:18 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468 

Answer: In 1981 Chrysler began installing 2.6L Hemi engines in the K-Cars.
It was the 2.6 liter overhead cam hemi Mitsubishi 4 banger. Chrysler tried
to cash in on the name by putting a "Hemi" badge on the fenders. It was
really pretty shameless although the 2.6 liter was the biggest 4 cylinder
engine in production at the time and ran pretty strong with 112 hp in the
carbureted version and some sports cars (like the Conquest/Starion) came
turbocharged and intercooled an spat out over 200 hp. Olds content, my
Cutlass can beat a K Car any day. :-)

- -----Original Message-----

>
>> Trivia: How long has it
>>been since Chrysler installed a Hemi engine in a production automobile?
>>
>
>
>The 426 was last used in '71 I think. I know the Dodge Colt had a 4-banger
>with hemi heads, but I can't find the production dates on them.
>
>drc
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 16:16:41 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468 

Ed, I was talking about 426 or larger V8 engines, those others are a hoax,
or a joke, take your pick! I have a Vega, could have been worse, could have
a "K" car.
Lou
- ----------
> From: Edward Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468 
> Answer: In 1981 Chrysler began installing 2.6L Hemi engines in the
K-Cars.
> It was the 2.6 liter overhead cam hemi Mitsubishi 4 banger. Chrysler
tried
> to cash in on the name by putting a "Hemi" badge on the fenders. It was
> really pretty shameless although the 2.6 liter was the biggest 4 cylinder
> engine in production at the time and ran pretty strong with 112 hp in the
> carbureted version and some sports cars (like the Conquest/Starion) came
> turbocharged and intercooled an spat out over 200 hp. Olds content, my
> Cutlass can beat a K Car any day. :-)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 17:46:36 -0500
From: "Daniel R. Gerow" <dgerow@student.stonehill.edu>
Subject: Electrical Problems

Greetings all and Happy Holidays!

I'm having some electrical problems with my '71 Cutalss Supreme.
A few days ago, the alternator light came on.  Since then, it has
remained
on without fail.  The car is on it's second new alternator, has a new
voltage regulator (external), with some new hardware.  I can't drive the

car at night, for obvious reasons, such as I loose all my electical
equip, especially those oh-so-helpful headlights.  I thought the problem

might lie in the crusty horn/buzzer relay on the driver's side fender,
but that isn't it
either.  The altenator is putting out jucie cause I had it tested.  Does

anyone have any other suggestions.  As I have to go be to school (and
work) soon, I need the use of my vehicle.  Any advice is duly
appreciated.

Thanks,

Dan Gerow

'69 4-4-2
'71 Cutlass Supreme
dgerow@stonehill.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 18:05:25 -0500
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: e-mail tech help needed

>Hello all,
> My computer knowledge is very limited. I've noticed some [or all] of my
posts are showing up with the
>text being wider than the screen, requiring one to scan back and forth to
read them. Can someone tell
>me why? How do i fix this?
> Thanks.
>Dave Brode

David,
They all look ok on my machine.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 17:57:19 -0500
From: "Daniel R. Gerow" <dgerow@student.stonehill.edu>
Subject: Muscle Car Review

Could someone please give me some contact info. regarding the magazine
Muscle Car Review.  A web site or email address perhaps.  I've only seen
this mag once and I love it, but I can't find it anywhere.  I think it's
only bi-monthly, but still.  Even a place to buy it would be
appreciated.  Thank you.

Please reply to:    dgerow@stonehill.edu
to save list bandwidth.

Dan Gerow

'69 4-4-2
'71 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 18:06:14 EST
From: Fireman431@aol.com
Subject: Re: Electrical Problems

Electrical problems are soooo much fun. Check these in order:

1) Alternator belt tight
2) Good connections from the alternator wires to the battery
3) Regulator connections....have the regulator tested

More than likely, it is the external regulator. Weather tends to reek havoc on
those.
Good luck!

Larry

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 18:06:54 EST
From: HCarn@aol.com
Subject: Re: Muscle Car Review

i always bought mine at wal-mart.Is is a bi-monthly.my subscription will start
as soon as i send them money.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 18:08:37 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: Muscle Car Review

 <A HREF="http://www.d-p-g.com/musclecar/default.htm">Musclecar Review
Magazine</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 18:17:53 -0500
From: jgoble@nishanet.com (Jeramy Goble)
Subject: Re: e-mail tech help needed

In the top of your mail screen under Edit probably, you should have an
"Options" or "Preferences" category..... Look in their and see if you
have somewhere that you can check mark it to 'wrap' your outgoing mail
to the width of your window screen.  And don't worry about it.... we've
all been there at some point or another, trying to figure these
computers out!!!

Reggie and Cathy Goble

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 18:12:24 EST
From: Fireman431@aol.com
Subject: Re: e-mail tech help needed

Try clicking on the upward pointing arrow in the upper right corner of the
email screen. This should enlarge the screen area. If that doesn't work, try
striking the keyboard with a 3 pound sledge....this will usually intimidate
the computer into cooperating.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 17:16:32 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: e-mail tech help needed

Dave Brode
Click on the two squares on the upper right corner of the screen, between
the - and x signs, should reduce the size, some dummies use bold and
expanded script on they're replies, I just cuss a lot on my replies, try
it, should help.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
> >Hello all,
> > My computer knowledge is very limited. I've noticed some [or all] of my
> posts are showing up with the
> >text being wider than the screen, requiring one to scan back and forth
to
> read them. Can someone tell
> >me why? How do i fix this?
> > Thanks.
> >Dave Brode

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 18:47:03 -0500
From: Jeff Mullenix <muxx@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Electrical Problems

You may want to check the connector that plugs into your alternator on the
top or back side of the alternator.  I had a problem very simular and found
by re-terminating the connector fixed my problem.

      Jeff

At 05:46 PM 12/27/1998 -0500, you wrote:
>Greetings all and Happy Holidays!
>
>I'm having some electrical problems with my '71 Cutalss Supreme.
>A few days ago, the alternator light came on.  Since then, it has
>remained
>on without fail.  The car is on it's second new alternator, has a new
>voltage regulator (external), with some new hardware.  I can't drive the
>
>car at night, for obvious reasons, such as I loose all my electical
>equip, especially those oh-so-helpful headlights.  I thought the problem
>
>might lie in the crusty horn/buzzer relay on the driver's side fender,
>but that isn't it
>either.  The altenator is putting out jucie cause I had it tested.  Does
>
>anyone have any other suggestions.  As I have to go be to school (and
>work) soon, I need the use of my vehicle.  Any advice is duly
>appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dan Gerow
>
>'69 4-4-2
>'71 Cutlass Supreme
>dgerow@stonehill.edu
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1998 19:20:21 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: Electrical Problems

I had the same problem with my '74 Volvo 144, a car notorious for
electrical problems in all phases.  Alternator after alternator found
its way to the rebuild shop but to no avail.  Some possible causes that
I remember being told to look for on this car:

1.  Check all the wires to and from the alternator and regulator, and
the connections, including the battery and starter cables.  The smallest
fray or missing piece of insulation can cause these problems.

2.  Check the ground strap(s) under the car.  If there is a broken or
loose connection here this may be your cause.

Unfortunately, it has been about six years since I had this car so these
are the only two I remember.  We never found the problem, but what
finally fixed it was changing over to an internally regulated
alternator.  It is really easy to do.  I got a new alternator for a '78
Cheyenne pickup with a 305.  We had to use a reciprocating saw to cut
the bracket to fit (be careful not to get metal shavings in the
alternator) and ran a jumper wire from the male prong marked 2 on the
side of the new alternator to the battery terminal on the back of the
alternator.  The car never ran better and it solved all of its charging
problems for at least two years later, then I lost touch with the car
and never saw it again (sniff).  I used the Chevy alternator but you may
want to use an Olds one, just for the sake of keeping it all Olds.  My
G-body alternator seems to be pretty darn close to the one for the
chevy, and it is internally regulated.
Hope this helps,
Brian.
Daniel R. Gerow wrote:
> 
> Greetings all and Happy Holidays!
> 
> I'm having some electrical problems with my '71 Cutalss Supreme.
> A few days ago, the alternator light came on.  Since then, it has
> remained
> on without fail.  The car is on it's second new alternator, has a new
> voltage regulator (external), with some new hardware.  I can't drive the
> 
> car at night, for obvious reasons, such as I loose all my electical
> equip, especially those oh-so-helpful headlights.  I thought the problem
> 
> might lie in the crusty horn/buzzer relay on the driver's side fender,
> but that isn't it
> either.  The altenator is putting out jucie cause I had it tested.  Does
> 
> anyone have any other suggestions.  As I have to go be to school (and
> work) soon, I need the use of my vehicle.  Any advice is duly
> appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dan Gerow
> 
> '69 4-4-2
> '71 Cutlass Supreme
> dgerow@stonehill.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1998 19:26:08 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: steering wheel

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Message-ID: <36852CE9.C6F9B2F3@home.com>
Date: Sat, 26 Dec 1998 13:37:29 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Organization: @Home Network
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.05 [en]C-AtHome0404  (Win95; U)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: oldsg_body@listbot.com, oldsmobile@shebucto.ns.ca
Subject: steering wheel
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi all, 

Has anyone out there got a nice maroon steering wheel for an '86 Cutlass
Supreme Brougham that you no longer need?  I am going to have to change
the windshield wiper switch soon and all of my sources have said that
the wheel must come off.  I figure that since the wheel is coming off I
might as well change it since it is pretty cracked up in all the normal
spots and the nice chrome stripe around it has been reduced to plastic
chips.  I am about to look on 442.com to see if there are any to be had,
just thought I would check here first.
TIA
Brian.

- --------------9C229BF4228A0F5C867F4BDD--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 19:37:06 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: steering wheel

try s-man at super442@yahoo.com.  He has a lot of G body stuff.  Maybe he's
got a wheel for you.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>;
olds_gbody@listbot.com <olds_gbody@listbot.com>
Date: Sunday, December 27, 1998 7:26 PM
Subject: steering wheel


>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 17:22:11 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: '68 cutlass W-31

MrExMt@aol.com wrote:
> 
> NO YOUR WRONG, A GOOD FRIEND IN THE LOCAL OLDS CLUB HERE HAS A '68 CUTLASS S
> W-31 CONVERTIBLE THAT IS WELL  DOCUMENTED. AND I HAVE SEEN ANOTHER HARD TOP
> HERE ALSO. THESE ARE EXTREMELY RARE, BUT DO EXIST.
> LEIGH TENENHOLTZ
> '68 CUTLASS S CONVERT



Sorry!  You don't have to yell at me though. Geez!
I made the statement that there were no 1968 W-31
(Ram Rod) convertibles because I have never seen
any literature to support they were made.  Of every
production reference I have, there is never any 
mention of a convertible.  My understanding is that
there were 742 68 W-31's made.  38 were based on the
F85 Club Coupe, 674 on the Cutlass hardtop and 30
Cutlass Supreme hardtops.  I also have an Oldsmobile
spec sheet for the 1968 W-31's which states:

"Option W-31, Force-Air Induction System, as released
for January 1968 production, is available with 1968 F85
Cutlass and Cutlass Supreme coupe models only".

It is possible the W-31 equipment was added by a 
dealer on this 68 convertible.  Which would show 
as an option on some original paperwork (dealer 
invoice, etc.) However, in order to be documented 
as a factory assembled car, the build sheet would 
be required for verification.

Leigh, don't get me wrong here.  I'm not doubting 
your word.  I would be very interested in any 
further information regarding this car.    

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Web Site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 20:52:14 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468

I posed the trivia question and there was no specific mention of size. It
was a deliberate trick for people who tend to forget that vehicles have
actually been built AFTER 1972. My answer was correct. The 2.6L and the 2.0L
Mitsu are true hemis. Believe me, I had the misfortune of working on those
motors EVERY DAY for two years. But I do know how to get squeeze about 350
hp out of them, and that's no joke or hoax. But, you're right about one
thing, I'd rather have a Vega than a K car. I'd sur hate for those to be my
only choices. Olds content: My Cutlass will beat a K car and "most" Vegas.

- -----Original Message-----

>Ed, I was talking about 426 or larger V8 engines, those others are a hoax,
>or a joke, take your pick! I have a Vega, could have been worse, could have
>a "K" car.
>Lou
>----------
>> From: Edward Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468
>> Answer: In 1981 Chrysler began installing 2.6L Hemi engines in the
>K-Cars.
>> It was the 2.6 liter overhead cam hemi Mitsubishi 4 banger. Chrysler
>tried
>> to cash in on the name by putting a "Hemi" badge on the fenders. It was
>> really pretty shameless although the 2.6 liter was the biggest 4 cylinder
>> engine in production at the time and ran pretty strong with 112 hp in the
>> carbureted version and some sports cars (like the Conquest/Starion) came
>> turbocharged and intercooled an spat out over 200 hp. Olds content, my
>> Cutlass can beat a K Car any day. :-)
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 20:15:58 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468

Ed, 
Mainly a joke, stuck in the race car syndrome, know about the others,
wasn't correcting, you are correct, if you have followed the silly Vega
stuff, you know where I was going. To beat my Vega all you would have to do
is move forward. take care.
Lou
- ----------
> From: Edward Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 19:26:09 -0700
From: "Michael Maxwell" <michael@maxwell.cnchost.com>
Subject: Re: W-30 STRIPES

Must have red plastic fenderwells
Letter F cast on the front of the left cylinder hard and rear of right
cylinder head.
Aluminum intake manifold with "Oldsmobile W-455" in raised letters.
Four-row radiator.
All W-30's in 1970 were built in Lansing (letter M in VIN code)
Disc brakes only.
There's more, let me know if you need it.
- -----Original Message-----
From: jhbII <jh2nlla@noblecan.org>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, December 25, 1998 9:02 PM
Subject: W-30 STRIPES


>       MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!!!! Thanks to ALL on this list!! Aspecial to Bob
>Schinkel for telling me about the "LIST" almost a year ago,THANKS Bob!!!
>A quick question? On a W-30,if the car has the original paint with original
>"W-30" striping could it be any thing else? The car is a 1970 and I have
not
>found any build sheets but then again I have not looked real hard. Any
>thoughts, comments.    Jack
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 21:26:48 -0500
From: "Bill B." <Pianotuner@fastservice.com>
Subject: HEI distributor info

I have spent more time upgrading my computer with Christmas goodies than
trying to get my 82 Olds 88 Buick V6 started over that last several
days.  I replaced the HEI ignition coil after a resistance check showed
an infinite resistance.  That set me back $16.75 at Autozone.  The
engine almost fired, but I don't think the spark is hot enough.  I am
considering replacing the capacitor and module in the bottom of the
distributor.  Has anyone found that capacitor or module to ever be a
problem with the HEI?  I have received suggestions that I pull out the
V6 and replace it with a 455.  I may do that in warmer weather, but for
now I would prefer that my 16-year-old son drive the V6.

Bill Bussell
Speedway, Indiana

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 21:30:58 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468

Actually, since the 455 is on the stand, the Cutlass can't even move forward
under it's own power. Soooo, currently, the Vega could run circles around my
Cutlass. Oh, the irony . . . . happy holidays. :-)
- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Comid <Comid>
Date: Sunday, December 27, 1998 9:15 PM
Subject: Re: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468


>
>Received: from halifax.chebucto.ns.ca [192.75.95.75] by jellico.com with
smtp
> id BFAPAPEN ; Sun, 27 Dec 1998 21:15:16 -0500
>Received: by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca id <34974-596>; Sun, 27 Dec 1998
22:15:45 -0400
>Received: from ns2.intertek.net ([209.83.158.3]:15064 "EHLO
ns2.intertek.net" ident: "TIMEDOUT") by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca with ESMTP id
<34598-711>; Sun, 27 Dec 1998 22:14:40 -0400
>Received: from default (oflil089.intertek.net [209.83.158.89])
> by ns2.intertek.net (8.8.7/8.8.7) with ESMTP id UAA10436
> for <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; Sun, 27 Dec 1998 20:11:34 -0600
>Message-Id: <199812280211.UAA10436@ns2.intertek.net>
>From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Subject: Re: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468
>Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 20:15:58 -0600
>X-MSMail-Priority: Normal
>X-Priority: 3
>X-Mailer: Microsoft Internet Mail 4.70.1161
>X-Orcpt: rfc822;"|/csuite/etc/majordomo/wrapper resend -l oldsmobile -h
chebucto.ns.ca oldsmobile-mml"
>Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
>Ed,
>Mainly a joke, stuck in the race car syndrome, know about the others,
>wasn't correcting, you are correct, if you have followed the silly Vega
>stuff, you know where I was going. To beat my Vega all you would have to do
>is move forward. take care.
>Lou
>----------
>> From: Edward Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 21:41:26 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: HEI distributor info

HEI Modules are frequent failure points in the ignition system. When I find
an HEI system with no fire or weak fire, the module is the very first thing
I check and it is the problem at least 70% of the time. MSD makes a very
good module replacement unit and Accel makes a good replacement module. I
run the Accel unit with a good hot aftermarket coil. Many on the list
actually carry a spare module in their cars. Get it?

- -----Original Message-----

>I have spent more time upgrading my computer with Christmas goodies than
>trying to get my 82 Olds 88 Buick V6 started over that last several
>days.  I replaced the HEI ignition coil after a resistance check showed
>an infinite resistance.  That set me back $16.75 at Autozone.  The
>engine almost fired, but I don't think the spark is hot enough.  I am
>considering replacing the capacitor and module in the bottom of the
>distributor.  Has anyone found that capacitor or module to ever be a
>problem with the HEI?  I have received suggestions that I pull out the
>V6 and replace it with a 455.  I may do that in warmer weather, but for
>now I would prefer that my 16-year-old son drive the V6.
>
>Bill Bussell
>Speedway, Indiana
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 19:45:28 -0700
From: "Michael Maxwell" <michael@maxwell.cnchost.com>
Subject: Re: Electrical Problems

Make sure your alternator and voltage regulator are still good.
Most places will test your alternator for free. A new voltage regulator is
only
about 12 bucks. If this doesn't fix it then check your battery condition and
battery
cables. Be sure to charge you battery fully BEFORE you put on the new
alternator
and voltage regulator, as you could fry new ones with a dead battery.
If all this doesn't fix it and the light stays on then I would check the
wires that go
between the alternator and voltage regulator. The BAT and FLD wires are good
ones
to check. Use an ohmmeter to make sure these wires haven't gone open.
Another good check is to pull the (+) cable of your battery while the car is
running. If the
alternator is charging then the car will keep running.
Let me know what you find out.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Daniel R. Gerow <dgerow@coal.stonehill.edu>
To: Oldsmobile List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, December 27, 1998 3:53 PM
Subject: Electrical Problems


>Greetings all and Happy Holidays!
>
>I'm having some electrical problems with my '71 Cutalss Supreme.
>A few days ago, the alternator light came on.  Since then, it has
>remained
>on without fail.  The car is on it's second new alternator, has a new
>voltage regulator (external), with some new hardware.  I can't drive the
>
>car at night, for obvious reasons, such as I loose all my electical
>equip, especially those oh-so-helpful headlights.  I thought the problem
>
>might lie in the crusty horn/buzzer relay on the driver's side fender,
>but that isn't it
>either.  The altenator is putting out jucie cause I had it tested.  Does
>
>anyone have any other suggestions.  As I have to go be to school (and
>work) soon, I need the use of my vehicle.  Any advice is duly
>appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dan Gerow
>
>'69 4-4-2
>'71 Cutlass Supreme
>dgerow@stonehill.edu
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 18:36:03 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: RE: 66 4-4-2 Owners

Thanks to all those who responded to the List
and personally regarding my (albeit vague) 
request.  What I'm seeking is verification of
carb numbers on original cars equipped with 
their original Quadrajets.  I would very much
appreciate it if you could e-mail me back
privately with your carb number and specific
application info (i.e. transmission type,
with or without A/C, and whether equipped
with A.I.R.). 

Thanks again for all the responses.
And thanks in advance for helping.

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Web site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 22:00:36 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: 5300LBS

> Just yesterday I looked at the sticker on the door of my '81 Regency.  This
> car is fully loaded but I was seriously disappointed to find out that it
> weighs 5300LBS.  I found that figure to be too much so I went and weighed

That figure is the GVWR, which includes 1100 lbs total recommended
passenger and cargo weight.  The real weight of your Olds 98 is probably
much closer to 4200 lbs.  My '83 Delta 88 sans power locks/seats/windows,
but with cruise, A/C, and trailer towing package is calculated to weigh
approximately 4000 lbs.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 22:40:28 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: gifts

Bell Tech front spindles and rear coil springs for a slightly lower stance.
Adjustable vac. advance unit, head gaskets on New Year's Day in polyanna.

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 22:40:27 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Good News

HA!

<words> -----Original Message-----
<words> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<words> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Lou Biggs
<words> Sent: Friday, December 25, 1998 17:36 Costanzo
<words> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<words> Subject: Re: Good News
<words> 
<words> 
<words> Peter, 
<words> Would have settled for a BJ, oh well. Somedays you win, 
<words> somedays -------!
<words> Lou
<words> ----------
<words> > From: Peter Berusch <pber710840@email.msn.com>
<words> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<words> > Subject: Re: Good News
<words>  
<words> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 22:52:49 EST
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Re: 66 4-4-2 Owners

Greg-
My '66 442 had a #7027157 carb, same as I just found on a '66 Toro I'd parted
out. Both Calif cars.
Best-
ps

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 21:19:03 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 5300LBS

>That figure is the GVWR, which includes 1100 lbs total recommended
>passenger and cargo weight.

So my Delta who's A/C, Cruise, Emissions, spare tires & jack are removed but
which gained a 455 (+150 lbs), and a th400 (+75 lbs) should come in at about
4100 LBS or so.  So that means that if I can remove another 100 lbs it would
be around 4000.  That would be reasonable.  I was thinking about making some
bumpers from fiberglass and installing them (with a metal support bar of
course).  That should shave of approx.. 60 lbs and then a Edelbrock intake
and maybe some soundproofing crap out.  I really like my stereo but my Subs
are going out cause they are porky.  What else could I do?  Seats don't
weigh that much so even if I lost them I would not gain much but the car
would look like crap.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 23:53:02 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Rallye-Pac circuit boards

Peter

        The dash is leaving tomorrow. I took some time off for the Holidays.
Hope you like it. Just let me know what you think after you receive it.
Personally it's just as nice as the one in my 66 W-30 that has 26,000 miles on
it. And that one's stay put. I will not restore it. Happy Holidays!

Jim Chermack

At 07:55 PM 12/19/98 , you wrote:
>Jim-
>Thanks for the tip. I'll give them a buzz.
>Did the '67 Dash go out yet? Anxious to see it!
>
>Season's Best-
>Peter Sliskovich

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 01:31:40 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@intrlink.com>
Subject: Re: 5300LBS

> So my Delta who's A/C, Cruise, Emissions, spare tires & jack are removed but
> which gained a 455 (+150 lbs), and a th400 (+75 lbs) should come in at about
> 4100 LBS or so.  So that means that if I can remove another 100 lbs it would
> be around 4000.  That would be reasonable.   What else could I do?  Seats 
don't
> weigh that much so even if I lost them I would not gain much but the car
> would look like crap.

If the front seat is a bench you could replace it with buckets and
possibly lose some weight.  Later model buckets (say ~`95 and later)
"feel" lightest to me but I don't know if they're really lighter than
earlier ones.  There's plenty of 90's bucket seats in the boneyards.  I
got a set of leather buckets for my calais out of a 95 grand prix for
$75.  They're very comfortable, have very little wear and the yard even
threw in the back seat with the deal.  If you want to do some creative
bracket work you might consider foreign car buckets since they're
comfortable and by my estimate lighter than GM seats.  (well, honda
seats are anyways) I guess mismatched front bucket seats would still
look kinda goofy.  Stay away from power seat controls for optimum weight
savings. If you have a split bench you might also look into getting a
straight bench seat.  I think they're lighter.  If you have a 2-door
this would mean only your skinny freinds can ride in the back. :) The
lower rear seat can be removed pretty quickly, the backrest is probably
bolted in but you might be able to come up with some kind of
quick-relaese system for it.  Butterfly nuts maybe?  That way you could
leave the seat out and put it back when you know you're going to be
hauling passengers.  Cover the hole to the trunk with the beach towel of
your choice to keep the cold out. :)     

As for the subwoofers, can't they just be removed when not in use?  When
you're ready to race, take 'em out.  It's probably worth the effort to
keep the sound quality when you're not racing.  Mag wheels are lighter,
you can save a few pounds there.  Don't forget gasoline is heavy, race
on a quarter tank.  You could relocate the battery to the trunk.  That
doesn't save weight but it relocates about 30-50lbs over the rear
wheels.  If you don't have a rear anti-sway bar, consider one.  They
help handling and they  improve traction by cutting down on wheel hop. 
If you have a vinyl top, you may consider removing it, especially if
it's ugly anyway.  

On G-bodies, the cars with V8s and diesels got lighter body parts and
brackets to save weight.  Maybe the big cars did too?  For instance,
there are some V8 G-bodies, especially diesels, that had aluminum
hoods.  You might check a diesel delta and see if there's any light body
parts on them you can use.  Some 80's V-8 cars (diesels, I think) are
said to have aluminum front accesory brackets on the engine.  Maybe you
could adapt them to your 455?  I don't remember if small block accesory
brackets fit a big block or not.    
 
Just some suggestions, hope I was of some help.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 00:43:16 -0600
From: "Joe Centanni" <jacentan@crown.icongrp.com>
Subject: hello all

Now that I"m not an idiot and can post to the list(long story), i wanted to
say hello to everyone on this list and would like to let them know that if
they have any questions on the 81-88 Cutlasses,H/O's, 442's or GT's let me
know. Speaking of which anyone see an 85 442 in white? Supposedly they
exist...i have seen one 88 GT was white w/ cream and red H/O stripes and
H/O ground effects seen that on e and one advetised for sale, anyone have
any info on either of theses oddballs cause i cant find any.   I drive an
87 442 , burgundy/silver, normal mods, Hooker catback exhaust, ram air,
MSD6 and bumped timing up.........Before u laugh I know its only  a 307 but
i can run w/ those damn f**d five-ohs!...............Anyone know a good
recipe to get an Olds 350 in my car into the mid 13's for cheap <$2000
assembled myself?
please no flame mail but I also have a turbo 3.8 out of a 87 GN that I wish
to put in. I know its not an Olds but everyone has a chevy and I"m trying
to do something diferent.
				Thanks
				Jeremy 87 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 02:11:59 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: 5300LBS

In a message dated 12/27/98 10:30:42 PM Pacific Standard Time,
gregp@intrlink.com writes:

<<  Some 80's V-8 cars (diesels, I think) are
 said to have aluminum front accesory brackets on the engine.  Maybe you
 could adapt them to your 455?  I don't remember if small block accesory
 brackets fit a big block or not. >>

     Got the aluminum Alternator bracket on my 77 403..either off that motor
or the '86 307. '81 Diesel has same bracket on it.  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 03:22:45 EST
From: GraphixRUs@aol.com
Subject: Re: torque vs hp, big inch diesel, amc

Our 94 freightliner, 430hp  at 2150  rpm, Cat engine,   with 663,000  miles on
it   3.91 gears, 24.5" low-profile radial Michellens, 9 speed Fuller trans. ,
grossing   79,750#  will  run 97 mph day after day  & get 5.8 miles per
gallon.
Roger Utter

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 27 Dec 1998 23:55:36 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 5300LBS

>If the front seat is a bench you could replace it with buckets and
>possibly lose some weight.  Later model buckets (say ~`95 and later)
>"feel" lightest to me but I don't know if they're really lighter than
>earlier ones.

It is a split-bench seat and I am getting buckets probably from a early 90's
car and no power options of course.

>If you have a 2-door
>this would mean only your skinny friends can ride in the back. :) The
>lower rear seat can be removed pretty quickly, the backrest is probably
>bolted in but you might be able to come up with some kind of
>quick-relaese system for it.  Butterfly nuts maybe?  That way you could
>leave the seat out and put it back when you know you're going to be
>hauling passengers.  Cover the hole to the trunk with the beach towel of
>your choice to keep the cold out. :)


It's a 4 door.  The back seat is easily removed both the bottom and top with
no bolts but clips.  I have removed it a bunch of times so it is no problem.

>As for the sub woofers, can't they just be removed when not in use?  When
>you're ready to race, take 'em out.  It's probably worth the effort to
>keep the sound quality when you're not racing.

Yes, my subs are in portable boxes however I am loosing interest in them and
also the sound is not that much better since my 6x9s are strong and provide
ample base.  Don't forget that this is a sedan and since the subs are in the
trunk they don't really work great.  Don't get me wrong, they pump but we
shell just see.

>Mag wheels are lighter,
>you can save a few pounds there.

Yup and although I will get decent wheels someday, I am broke now.

>Don't forget gasoline is heavy, race
>on a quarter tank.

Yup, always do.

>You could relocate the battery to the trunk.  That
>doesn't save weight but it relocates about 30-50lbs over the rear
>wheels.  If you don't have a rear anti-sway bar, consider one.  They
>help handling and they  improve traction by cutting down on wheel hop.


I have a sway bar and traction sucks.  As for the battery I would like to do
it but I heard that kits are rather expensive.

>If you have a vinyl top, you may consider removing it, especially if
>it's ugly anyway.


I do have it and it is in a great shape.  I like it (believe it or not) and
will paint it.  It would be a pain to remove and paint the top.

>On G-bodies, the cars with V8s and diesels got lighter body parts and
>brackets to save weight.  Maybe the big cars did too?  For instance,
>there are some V8 G-bodies, especially diesels, that had aluminum
>hoods.  You might check a diesel delta and see if there's any light body
>parts on them you can use.  Some 80's V-8 cars (diesels, I think) are
>said to have aluminum front accessory brackets on the engine.  Maybe you
>could adapt them to your 455?  I don't remember if small block accessory
>brackets fit a big block or not.


I have hood induction on my hood which was a pain to install and smooth in
so new hood is out of question.  Interesting suggestions though.  As for the
brackets SB brackets don't fit BBs.

>Just some suggestions, hope I was of some help.


Thanks a lot and I will consider the buckets and battery.  I would like to
get a good console shift for my TH400, so I would kind of have to run
buckets.  Thanks.  Igor.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/th2004r/propane)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 07:29:49 EST
From: DKlauber@aol.com
Subject: Re: Muscle Car Review

www.musclecarreview.com
My car was featured in the June/July 98 issue, and I ordered back copies and
they sent them quickly.  David
70 442 W-30 conv
OCA #30416

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 07:56:02 EST
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Re: Muscle Car Review(Nice Cars)

David beautiful car!!!!! Nice job on the restoration. Will pull it out and re
read the story (like I haven't read it and drooled over it a billion times
already). I gave a copy of that, the 68/69 H/O, 69 442 and the w30 in the
shoot-out to the wife and said that is what I want for Christmas. It was going
good till I showed her how much they cost!!!!!!  This is part of the bigger
plan to justify the several cars and working restoration project theroy.
LOL... Happy Holidays, Chris

CHRIS SOMMERVILLE
69 442 SC
STARFIRE V8?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 08:32:07 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: HEI distributor info

Bill Russell wrote:    Some stuff and: <snipped>

> I replaced the HEI ignition coil after a resistance check showed
>an infinite resistance.  That set me back $16.75 at Autozone.  The
>engine almost fired, but I don't think the spark is hot enough.  I am
>considering replacing the capacitor and module in the bottom of the
>distributor.  Has anyone found that capacitor or module to ever be a
>problem with the HEI?  


I haven't any knowledge of capacitors being a common problem, but the 
modules are. My opinion (prejudice and experience) is that AutoZone in my 
home area supplies a greater than normal percentage of parts which are 
initially defective. Interpretation: Don't rule out yet that your coil may 
be bad, but a module is at least somewhat likely .

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 10:32:20 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: Electrical Problems

Dan,
I had the exact same problem with my 72 and I couldn't find out what was
wrong. I replaced the alt and reg. with an internally regulated 70 amp. alt.
Very, very easy to do. It took me about 20 mins to do the swap.
The internal reg. alt fits right into your brackets with no modification to
them.  You can exchange your new alt and probably get money back, I did.

You should consider this mod very seriously now that you're having troubles.

The conversion is covered in the FAQ pages.

Donny Arnold
w.d.arnold@lmco.com

72  Olds 442  
41 Chevy 
63 Chevy Truck



 
Dan wrote;
> anyone have any other suggestions.  As I have to go be to school (and
> work) soon, I need the use of my vehicle.  Any advice is duly
> appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dan Gerow
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 09:43:37 -0600
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: 50 fastest US production cars

It may not be anything remote to production, but Mickey Thompson drove a
quad engined Pontiac to over 400 MPH.  If that doesn't qualify for the
fastest.....Ok, but it is the fastest with a production block, 4
SD421's.....

I know the Baldwin Camaro in 1969 (Motion Phase III) was originally a 396
car that had a dealer transplanted 427.  

For my vote, it is not Olds or Pontiac, but the ZL1 Camaro made production
of 69 models, and was capable of low 11's with slicks and minor tweaks.
Sure, Ch#vy rated the all Reynolds wrap 427 at 435 hp at 5500 rpm, the peak
was 575 at 7500 rpm.  Not bad at all.  

The 427 Cobra is my favorite, 485 hp, 2200 lbs.  Go figure....Viper, eat my
shorts!  power to weight, given same tires (12in slicks) I feel the 427
would rule the 488 (At least down the 1/4 miles).  And the AC is always on
in the Cobra!!  

Olds Content:  With a 2.14 gears Cutlass (Cultlass?) and a 455, THM400 200
mph should be a reality, and still have some pedal left!!

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 28 Dec 1998 09:46:35 -0600
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: COLD light?

What years did Olds have the COLD light?

My dad's 1968 Delmont 88 had one.  It was nice, wait till the COLD (blue or
green, I forget) went out and then you turned the heater blower on and you
got warm, no blowing cold air on you.

What triggered the COLD light?  What other Olds' models and years had this
feature?  

Anyone?  Please?  I would like to know!

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1687
*********************************

