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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1675


oldsmobile-digest     Saturday, December 19 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1675



Re: Oldsmobile POS for sale
Rallye-Pac circuit boards
I'm back!  What'd I miss? :)
Re: 1970 Olds Delta 88
Re: '99 Olds Nats??
RE: 1970 Olds Delta 88
Re: If they have Vista-Cruisers...we should have some too
Re: 1970 Olds Delta 88
RE: 1970 Olds Delta 88
Once more into the breach, dear friends: You are all ignoring Karl
Re: Oldsmobile POS for sale
Re: Once more into the breach, dear friends: You are all ignoring Karl
Re: 1970 Olds Delta 88
I'm back too.
Re:  Re: Power Locks?
Radiator Flushing/Cleaning?
Re: Oldsmobile POS for sale
UNBOUNCE: Re: even MORE bench racing
Pots calling the kettle black
Re: passing emissions tests (long post)
Re: Other codes for 1972 Olds
Re: re; w-29 option
Re: Oldsmobile POS for sale
Re: ENGINE OFFSET
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1674
Re: ENGINE OFFSET
Re: Rear woe
Re: Door Hinge Spring
Re: Stripe Paint Touch-Up
Re: Emissions
Re: Rear woe
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1674
Re: ENGINE OFFSET
Valve Spring Height
Re: UNBOUNCE: Re: even MORE bench racing
Re: UNBOUNCE: Re: even MORE bench racing
Re: Emissions
Re: Fw: Need TSB's for 94 astro van please
RE: cutlass supreme engine offset
Re: Signing off for a while (Was Re: '99 Olds Nats??)
Re: re; w-29 option
Re: re; w-29 option
Current Bench-Racing Session (Was 8000 RPM 350, Etc.)
re: w-29 option
Restricted Racing Engine Info Requested
Re: Oldsmobile POS for sale
Re: Oldsmobile POS for sale
Re: Oldsmobile POS for sale
Re: Oldsmobile POS for sale
72 HURST OLDSMOBILES
Re: Oldsmobile POS for sale
Electronic Delco AM/FM/cassette FS
Re: passing emissions tests (long post)
Re: You are all ignoring Karl

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 00:50:18 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile POS for sale

In a message dated 12/18/1998 8:24:20 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Gutlass66@aol.com writes:

<< 1966 Cutlass its staying  >>


Now that's the spirit!   I know they can be frustraiting......   especially
when you think you got it all dialed in and then it craps out on ya, but it
really is worth all the hassel!

SeeYa!
Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 00:53:38 EST
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Rallye-Pac circuit boards

Have a '67 RP in need of an unburnt circuit board. Have heard that these are
being repro'd, but do not know where to get. Anybody know?
TIA
Peter
CoupeKing@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 00:58:56 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@intrlink.com>
Subject: I'm back!  What'd I miss? :)

Hello all.

After an unexpected hiatus from the internet and changing ISPs I'm back
online and a member of the list again.  

Not a whole lot of oldsmobile news here....I've got yet another
car....Since I'm still sleeping in the house I guess my mom hasn't seen
it yet. :)  It's an `81 Caprice parts car, with a 350 diesel olds in
it.  It used to belong to a neighbor and he just gave it to me since it
hasn't run in years.  (It's not froze up BTW, the starter still turns
it.)  I though I'd try my hand at converting it to run on gas.  For now
I've got a nice alternator and steering pump for my calais.  They bolted
right up to the 260.  Luckily the caprice is brown, so it blends into
the scenery quite well even though the leaves are off the trees.  You
can barely see it hiding in the woods. :)  

The good ol' Yellow Submarine;  My Vista Cruiser, is still the daily
driver.  Over 200 grand on the clock now...Just gettin' broke in. :) 
It's going to get control arm bushings, a steering box, and an alignment
soon. Hopefully it'll be getting springs too, I figure it can use them
after this many miles.
  
The calais still needs paint and an interior, along with a multitude of
other little odds 'n ends and basic roadworthyness stuff.  I might run
the 260 on the road for awhile if I can get it running worth a dern, but
right now it's pretty crappy.  Worst of all, the oil pressure is low,
about 12 psi at idle.  The carbueretor is giving me fits and the belts
squeal continuously.  Haven't put a lot of time into fixing either
problem yet.  The tranny (TH350) leaks like a siev, haven't dug into
fixing that either but I suspect the seal around the shift lever shaft. 
Before I get it on the road I'll probably end up putting some sort of
rebuilt small block in there or a converted 350 diesel. 

And the `67 is just killing grass, waiting for it's turn. :)       

Rambled enough...better sign off for now.

Later,
 
Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

Mailto: gregp@intrlink.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 01:15:03 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: 1970 Olds Delta 88

"Pearce, Greg" wrote:

> A friend is considering selling his 1970 Olds Delta 88.  It's completely
> original and stock.  Low miles, real clean.  It has no power windows etc.  It
> does have auto trans, power steering, power brakes, A/C.  He's the second 
owner,
> and I know the first owner (the guys grandfather, who only drove it on 
Sundays
> ;).  I think it's a 2 door, 455 cid engine.  Factory AM/FM.
>
> Anyone know what this car is generally worth?
>
> Thanks -
>
> Greg

For 2 bucks I'll take it off his hands

Mark Hahn
75 Delta 88
Cincinnati, Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 01:15:51 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: '99 Olds Nats??

In a message dated 98-12-18 16:47:17 EST, you write:

<< K, 
 Can you come though here so I don't have to drive to Chicago first, I'm,
 banned in Cicero, have to go through there. Straight down 55, 2 miles from
 me. Bring the Cuervo, see the sites.
 Lou >>

It's south of Chi-town right?

Must be on the way...somehow!

Not a prob.

K

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 01:17:45 -0500
From: "Pearce, Greg" <GAP@filetek.com>
Subject: RE: 1970 Olds Delta 88

Oh man!  I don't believe it!  It can't be junk!  Is a beautiful bomb!  What's
wrong with it?  6,000 pounds or American steel can't be all bad!


- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark Hahn [mailto:mahahn@fuse.net]
Sent: Saturday, December 19, 1998 1:15 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: 1970 Olds Delta 88


"Pearce, Greg" wrote:

> A friend is considering selling his 1970 Olds Delta 88.  It's completely
> original and stock.  Low miles, real clean.  It has no power windows etc.  It
> does have auto trans, power steering, power brakes, A/C.  He's the second
owner,
> and I know the first owner (the guys grandfather, who only drove it on 
Sundays
> ;).  I think it's a 2 door, 455 cid engine.  Factory AM/FM.
>
> Anyone know what this car is generally worth?
>
> Thanks -
>
> Greg

For 2 bucks I'll take it off his hands

Mark Hahn
75 Delta 88
Cincinnati, Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 01:22:15 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: If they have Vista-Cruisers...we should have some too

I am looking for a VC for a wife mobile. Please tell us more.

Mark Hahn
75 Delta 88 Royale Convertible
Cincinnati, Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 01:37:19 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: 1970 Olds Delta 88

I guess I forgot to add a (wink)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 01:39:59 -0500
From: "Pearce, Greg" <GAP@filetek.com>
Subject: RE: 1970 Olds Delta 88

Where DO I find out what it's worth?  I also have updated info: It's a 4-door!
It was a serious question!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 02:03:31 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Once more into the breach, dear friends: You are all ignoring Karl

(an open letter, do not flame)

<< Hey Karl, why do you always tell info in the third person.  Do you have a
 split personality?  I am just wondering.  I like to talk to people direct
with
 no BS.  Remember, I am not conceided but convinced that is why they call me
 Mr. Personality.  :)    >>

{ lapsing....}
What? 
I was ignoring that last thread....


Well Mark;

Many know that my personal posts are written in first person, as well as my
dialogues in "Rocket Talk", mIRC, and ICQ-land.

So, why does Karl write in third person?

Part of the reason is attempting to enhance the communique.
Fun to write, and for some, entertaining to read.

Another part is that I have established a hierarchy of priorities.
The new order is unconventional by today's standards.
The car ranks fairly high. I do not.
Y'all prolly noticed my "footer" has me under the car.
Well, that's where I'd rather be.

There are enough people out there looking out for #1 first, and nobody second.

One less of these pukes won't change anything, but I find intense satisfaction
in not being like that.

I behave in a manner that I would like others to behave.

Too be entirely fair, I probably drink too much. But I drink at home and do
not bother anyone else, except some Oldsmobilers that get incoherent Emails.
And I have "penned" some curt posts about non-Olds traffic.
(Plus the last bit was yet another installment urging others to go to a highly
informative site which is all about the hows and whys of making power.)
Guilty as charged.

I appear to have strayed slightly from the essence....

Which is that I am engaging in these ongoing dialogues to learn more about my
Oldsmobile, and help others with theirs, if I actually have pertinent
knowledge.

In short, if you desire head-on dialogue, Email me, we'll rap.
But I am going back to writing about car stuff in a style I enjoy.

And that reminds me.
Did not see any replies to my post about using a multi-speed transmission to
harness a low-rpm torque peak.
So, what's the deal?
Was I right?
Way off base?
Like to know before I strap that Kenworth 18-speed onto the 371....


Anyone?

SOM
               <----improved ride height!
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 02:15:50 EST
From: CCRR12@aol.com
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile POS for sale

In a message dated 12/18/98 7:43:18 PM Central Standard Time,
cfair@FairIsaac.com writes:

<< 7) It was my father's Oldsmobile -- Dad was cool enough to buy a 98
 convertible in 1966. And was that cool till he died. >>


That one reason, #7, is the most significant to me. As you get older it will
mean even more to you. He probably thinks you are pretty cool for caring for
his old car!

Are there some other guys on the list with cars their fathers left them?

Randy in Okla
57 88 J2

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 01:16:10 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Once more into the breach, dear friends: You are all ignoring Karl

<Karl rhapsodised>
>And that reminds me.
>Did not see any replies to my post about using a multi-speed transmission
to
>harness a low-rpm torque peak.
>So, what's the deal?
>Was I right?
>Way off base?
>Like to know before I strap that Kenworth 18-speed onto the 371....
>


Well Karl,
Must have missed that post but the idea isn't completely off base.
Remember hearing about a trans that is in development that uses
a belt drive on varying diameter pulleys.  Basically what it does is
work like a 10 speed bicycle except there isn't multiple sprockets.
Supposed to be very wierd to drive since the engine stays at a
fairly constant rpm while the car accelerates.  Pretty much infinite
gear ratios.  The problem with multiple gears OTOH is that you
will spend more time shifting than anything else.  The current
trend is toward more gears though (who would have imagined
6spd manuals and 5spd auto's 30 or even 20 yrs ago?).
BTW nobody is ignoring you it's just a bad trip, man.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 00:35:52 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 1970 Olds Delta 88

I think that your best bet is to find a local appraiser, get the car
appraised (in writing of course) and then realistically drop the price to
what you think is worth.  When you say $10,000 for example and then go on
and say that you have it appraised at $12,500 it may attract some more
attention.  If it is in a great shape, I bet that it would be worth a good
dollar.


>Where DO I find out what it's worth?  I also have updated info: It's a
4-door!
>It was a serious question!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 03:51:50 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: I'm back too.

Well,
This winter hobby, ie. computer stuff, is definitely not as enjoyable as
automotive stuff.  I was forced to reformat my hard drive, replace my modem,
and replace my sound card tonight.  I would much rather have been
refomatting a 403 and replacing a carburetor and a stereo.  So, I've lost a
bunch of information, as it gets quite cumbersome to try to back up a gig on
floppies.  So, expect requests in the future for email addresses (again) and
such.  Thanks.

If anyone has directed any comments or questions at me over the past two
days, I didn't get them.  See ya.

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo
manual signature
rebuilt hard drive, bored 30MB over

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 04:09:22 EST
From: Ralllye350@aol.com
Subject: Re:  Re: Power Locks?

In a message dated 12/18/98 1:38:17 PM, you wrote:

>pull the door panel off and look on the reverse side, the panels come marked
>from the factory for pwr windows and locks.  also their should be a hole in
>the door where the switch will be.    steven,  w30442cs@aol.com

Is this true also for a 70 cutlass S ?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 04:10:58 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Radiator Flushing/Cleaning?

     Anyone in the list cleaned a radiator out? It's out of the car, so easy
to manipulate, and has calcium deposits. Karl suggested vinegar, and I was
thinking CLR (Calcium Lime Rust) but don't know how well the radiator metal
(all copper I think? 1981) would like CLR. Anyone successfully done this? Any
certain procedures or steps to take? I would normally not get rid of a brand
new radiator for a used one, but this a a factory oil cooler setup, and it
doesn't appear to have ever leaked (car has sat for the last 4 years, fluid in
it was still good looking) Thanks, Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 05:11:16 -0600
From: bloom9@juno.com (C K)
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile POS for sale

 Whoa there, it's not the cars fault. This is a great time for you to
expand your knowledge of your car and how it works. Remember, all cars
need three basic things to run, fuel..air..and spark(ie..electricity).
Start looking! You can do it and the feeling after you whipped the bad
situation is the best.
Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 08:42:29 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Re: even MORE bench racing

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: even MORE bench racing [was 8000 rpm 350]

Dave,
Last thing I intended on this thread was to start arbitrarily throwing out
un-substantiated ideas as fact.  My stream of logic was simply this:

1.  The Edelbrock Olds heads outflow both the "C" bb heads (by 70/45
CFM int/exh) and the Edelbrock cheby RPM heads (barely).
2.  A 350 cheby with the full RPM package will make 420hp while a
350 Olds with a similar package is in the ballpark with 397hp.
3.  The difference in the two motors is the Olds had unported "5"
heads with larger valves.
4.  By my reasoning this would put the "5" heads in the same ballpark
as the "C" heads (due to lack of actual flow numbers)

My stream of logic was more intended to use the cheby heads as a
bechmark with which you could compare the different Olds heads.  Maybe
a bit of "fuzzy" logic but in the absence of hard numbers what else can
you do?  I would love to have actual facts to base my views on but until I
have my own flowbench I will just have to rely on past experience.

As for the C heads on the 350 I would personally rather keep the
sb parts on the sb.  It is my understanding that putting bb heads on
a sb you have to do porting on the intake side to get a good
match up with the intake so you couldn't just leave the intake side
"as is" anyway.  The problem with a "peaky" engine in the given
scenario is the 3500 lb car.  For a on/off engine to work it pretty
much has to be in a light car.  I don't really think huge ports are
needed to make a screamer.  What you need are heads that
flow well at low lift and a large cam.

I follow with your CFM calculations but 650 CFM isn't really all
that much to flow.  I used the same formula to figure out that
a 350@8000 rpm and 100% VE would need only 808 CFM.
This is your "outer limits" calculation that if you can achieve
this you'll never be limited by the flow capabilities of the motor.
On keeping with the budget theme how much are a good set
of C heads going for?  If you massage the 5 heads to flow your
magic 800 CFM then you eliminate the expense of trying to get
your hands on a set of C heads.  68-72 350's would all be good
candidates to build this motor out of and you could get the whole
motor for a few hundred and not have the extra expense of getting
a set of bb heads.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 08:38:35 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: Pots calling the kettle black

>
>
> Hello all,

 PLEASE, let's not go here;

> Thanks alot,
> PS. Will Bill Clinton be tried as an adult?
>
> Donny Arnold
> w.d.arnold@lmco.com
>
> 72  Olds 442
> 41 Chevy
> 63 Chevy Truck
>

Dave Brode
64 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 08:42:53 -0500
From: Tom Berkowitz <tjberk@netkonnect.net>
Subject: Re: passing emissions tests (long post)

Roger Peterson wrote:
> 
> Barb... Perhaps I can shed some useful light on the emissions issue.  I
> promise not to go overboard and to keep it short.  CO (carbon monoxide) is
> burned fuel.  If CO is high, the corresponding air fuel ratio is likely rich
> (too much fuel in comparison to the amount of air being drawn into the
> cylinders by your vacuum pumps [pistons]) and you have too much burned fuel 
in
> the exhaust.  This is also discussed in terms of Stoichiometry or the
> Stoichiometric fuel mixture: the theoretically ideal mixture being somewhere
> around 14.7:1 (or 14.7 parts air to one part fuel).  There's good news in 
this
> scenerio in that at least the fuel is burned (meaning your engine's 
combustion
> efficiency and ignition system are working at least fairly well).  Most
> likely, you need to tweak the mixture.
> 
> Alternatively, HC (hydrocarbons) is unburned fuel.  If HC is high, this is an
> indication that something is preventing the air fuel mixture from being
> sufficiently burned.  You have unburned fuel in the exhaust.  Causes could be
> many: poor ignition (which goes beyond mere ignition systems), poor ignition
> with poor Stoichiometry, fuel delivery interferrence such as vacuum leaks, or
> a combination of the three, etc.  HC has the potential to become a more
> complex problem, but not unsolvable.  There's much to be said for the fine 
art
> of logical deduction.  Lastly, for space reasons, I've kept this discussion
> quite brief (given the subject matter), and I've deliberately avoided NOx, 
but
> it's out there too...  Somehow, I'm sure it'll come up.
> 
> In all likelyhood I've started a thread here since this is a subject most
> mechanics and automobile enthusiasts like/love/hate to debate, but it is my
> sincere hope that I've opened a door (if only by the slightest amount).
> Roger:)
> 
> barbw@uswest.net wrote:
> 
> > John Carri wrote:
> >
> > > 5)   Make sure your thermostat is not colder than the factory spec one.
> > > Cold engines emit more pollutants.
> > >
> >
> > For some completely unknown reason, my car ALWAYS passes emissions with a
> > cold engine rather than a thoroughly warmed up one.  Every year Id tear my
> > hair out come emissions time (to make bad matters worse, my tag renewal is
> > up in July - almost the hottest month of the year in Arizona).  I save the
> > emissions test report from year to year and discovered that the readings
> > tended to be lower not only when it was cooler out, but when the engine
> > had not yet warmed up.  Arizona allows you to go for the emissions test up
> > to 90 days early.  I target a nice pleasant Sat. morning some time in the
> > first half of May, drive the car out of the garage one mile to the testing
> > facility and shut the car off while waiting in line - and pass the whole
> > test.
> >
> > There were some earlier posts re disconnecting the PCV.  Well, Arizona
> > does a visual inspection of mandated emissions equipment which include the
> > PCV, cat, gas tank cap etc.  I have had the experience of passing all
> > portions of the emissions test EXCEPT the PCV portion - I hadnt realized
> > the ding-dong mechanics who had serviced the car some time prior to the
> > inspection failed to reconnect the PCV.  On the very same day I failed
> > said test the first time, I reconnected the PCV, drove around some before
> > letting the car sit in the garage for several hours then went back for the
> > retest in the afternoon, outside temperature was in the 80s and engine was
> > luke-warm -- and promptly failed the CO2 portion of the test...  Go
> > figure.  That car must be like its owner and has a mind of its own!
> >
> > Barb
> > '76 Cutlass Salon
Barb  I had trouble passing emmissions for my 1970 olds Cutlass until I
got a new carbuerator. Unfortunately, in July 1998, in Virginia, the
state legislature decided all cars 1968 and older must pass emissions
testing for the life of the car.  They are trying to get old cars off
the road.  Anyway, with a new carbuerator, I pass without any troubles. 
Mary

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 08:48:32 -0500
From: Tom Berkowitz <tjberk@netkonnect.net>
Subject: Re: Other codes for 1972 Olds

WMACHINES@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 98-12-18 16:22:42 EST, you write:
> 
> << Does anyone have the codes that are on the
>  cowl area tag that contains paint codes, etc.?
>  They are:
>  ST            BDY
>  TR            PAINT
>   >>
> So what are the numbers bub??
> 
> W MACHINES
you can get paint numbers at http://members.aol.com/drewinva/  Mary

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 07:52:25 -0600
From: "72Hurst" <72hurst@net-email.com>
Subject: Re: re; w-29 option

Mike,

Your right about the W30 option, the X in the vin. number is for the W30, if
you have the standard 455 then you would have a U in the vin. FYI

John
>
>
>Maybe it did if it had the W-30 engine if possible?  I'm not sure.  Only
>do 69 H/Os myself.  Still learning about the others.  I covered myself
>with an "I believe" which means I'm not sure. :)
>
>Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 09:06:57 -0500
From: Tom Berkowitz <tjberk@netkonnect.net>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile POS for sale

CCRR12@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 12/18/98 7:43:18 PM Central Standard Time,
> cfair@FairIsaac.com writes:
> 
> << 7) It was my father's Oldsmobile -- Dad was cool enough to buy a 98
>  convertible in 1966. And was that cool till he died. >>
> 
> That one reason, #7, is the most significant to me. As you get older it will
> mean even more to you. He probably thinks you are pretty cool for caring for
> his old car!
> 
> Are there some other guys on the list with cars their fathers left them?
> 
> Randy in Okla
> 57 88 J2
I am not a guy, but my dad just gave me a 1970 Olds Cutlas Supreme.  My
16 year old son had changed the oil in my Volvo and forgot to screw in
the nolt.  Anyway, I lost the oil and my volvo with over 200,000 miles.
When an engine locks up, it sounds like you are in an enclosed room and
someone dropped a million marbles.  Anyway, my dad gave me this car.  I
had to put it on the autotrain to get it to Va from Fl. It stalled out
at lights.  I got a new carburator which allowed me to pass emissions
testing, which let me license the car. It doesn't have much rust on it
(original paint job) but leaks around rear window into trunk when it
rains. I also had to fix brakes. I need a new battery (has original one
and cold weather killed the battery last night). Anyway, I have fixed
the leak problem by parking it in the garage.  Problem is the garage was
built for a model t and car is too long to shut the doors.  Anyway, I
have to really get this problem solved when I have a few dollars
(looking at income tax refund). Guess the kids are good for something 
Anyway, my boyfriend isn't good at fixing cars so I have to be extra
nice to my 3 brothers. He complains about my car now  calling it a money
pit. My 16 year old has laid clim to wanting the car when he graduates
from high school and wants to drive it now.  Do I need to learn how to
repair the car myself?  Everytime I take it someplace to be fixed, the
mechanics try to buy it from me. It is a cool car though.  I always get
guys staring at me or talking to me in the parking lot about my car. 
Mary

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 10:14:56 -0500
From: Brian Kerr <bkerr@golden.net>
Subject: Re: ENGINE OFFSET

I would venture to say that unless Poppy30 (who insists that there is an 
offset in
his oh so endearing manner) is prepared to post the actual measurements we 
would
be better off to ignore him and move on. Sounds like just another self made
expert.

Brian Kerr
69 Cutlass conv - with headers

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 10:41:05 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1674

Mike,

> .  By my reasoning this would put the "5" heads in the same ballpark
> as the "C" heads (due to lack of actual flow numbers)

- ---
 You are saying that if i took the "C" heads off of my 5800 rpm 461, and 
replaced them with  a set of #5s that had similar
prep, that it would run as good?
 Intake to intake, I don't believe ANY sb Olds factory head would flow with a 
"C". Otherwise why would the factory have
designed the larger port heads for the bigger engines [that require more air] 
in the first place?
 Mike, perhaps only you and i are reading our ramblings, but if anyone on this 
list has flow #s for various Olds heads,
please post them.

>
>  The problem with a "peaky" engine in the given
> scenario is the 3500 lb car.  For a on/off engine to work it pretty
> much has to be in a light car.

- ---
 Any engine will run better in a lighter car, but with enough gear/convertor 
etc the peaky engine will move the heavy car.
Look at the early 302" Z-28s and Boss Mustangs. They both had 4" X 3" motors 
with the biggest ports ford and chev had at the
time, but they made a bunch of horsepower, and those cars ran well on the 
dragstrip when properly equipped. I know they were
lousy street engines. I'm not talking about a good street combo. The 5, 6, or 
7 head would work much better on the street.
I'm talking about a car that could be driven to and from the strip.

 I admit, the difference between the peaky/non peaky engine is the non peaky 
one will work ok with most any gear/convertor
combo, where the peaky one will not.


> I don't really think huge ports are
> needed to make a screamer.  What you need are heads that
> flow well at low lift and a large cam

- ---
no matter how big the cam, if the port will not move enough air for the 
engines needs at a given rpm, the engine cannot make
power.
 I bet the cam profile in my cars motor would pull well to 6400 or 6600 in 
say, a square port BB chev, with its superior
flowing heads, but my motor goes flat at 5800-6000

> I follow with your CFM calculations but 650 CFM isn't really all
> that much to flow.  I used the same formula to figure out that
> a 350@8000 rpm and 100% VE would need only 808 CFM.
> This is your "outer limits" calculation that if you can achieve
> this you'll never be limited by the flow capabilities of the motor.
> On keeping with the budget theme how much are a good set
> of C heads going for?  If you massage the 5 heads to flow your
> magic 800 CFM then you eliminate the expense of trying to get
> your hands on a set of C heads.  68-72 350's would all be good
> candidates to build this motor out of and you could get the whole
> motor for a few hundred and not have the extra expense of getting
> a set of bb heads.

- ---
I used  85%  as a realistic V/E number. The V/E that you use doesn't change 
the fact the 7500 rpm 350 needs the same amount
of air as a 5800 rpm 455. At 8000 the 350 needs quite a bit more air than the 
5800 rpm 455. At 370" the numbers lean even
more.

 As far as the BB heads being hard to find/pricey, i've noticed them at the 
classified site for $50 to $100 a set[in the
rough].

 Finally, let's look at the 302" Boss Ford, and Z-28s again. They both needed 
to make big high rpm power for the road racing
efforts they were involved in. They didn't pick a head with medium sized 
ports. The used the highest flowing ones they had.
Would they do the same today? I don't know.

BTW i also seem to remember a road racing effort from Pontiac that used a 400 
destoked to 303", that used RA IV heads.

Still fun, but i wonder if anyone is tiring of us using the bandwidth?
Dave Brode
64 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 10:47:19 EST
From: Knightvd@aol.com
Subject: Re: ENGINE OFFSET

I don't think I caught the beginning of this subject discussion, and I really
don't want to belabor this, but I was looking through an October Car Craft and
saw an entry in the "Ask Marlan" section about this subject.  (sorry if
someone has already mentioned this)  Marlan replies "matter of fact like" that
yes, "On Supreme and Cutlass S cars, the engine is moved 1 inch off-center to
the right from the normal Cutlass or 4-4-2 mounting position"

I have a 71 Cutlass Supreme Convert that I have transplanted a 455 into.  I
used Dynomax headers and had to move the proportioning valve.  Other than this
mod and a few dings here and there to provide proper clearance around the oil
filter and such the headers fit fine.

If it is true that on the Supremes and Cutlass S the engine is moved to the
right I would like to know why?  Why would they need more clearance on the
left side of the engine?  If the engine sits further to the right this must be
achieved by either unique motor mounts for these cars or the engine frame
crossmember must be different.  Why go through all the trouble?  

Vince Knight 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 11:01:32 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: Rear woe

Vince,
    I have had this happen to me.  The reason was because I forgot to put
lock-tite on the threads.  I would simply install a new pinion seal, apply
lock-tite to pinion threads then torque the pinion nut to proper specs.  It
worked for me, no problems since.  Good luck.

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
>
>I have a problem with the rear in my 71 Cutlass Supreme.  I installed 3.73
>gears last summer and have noticed that the pinion nut loosened up and
there
>is play in the pinion bearing.  I think this is due to a couple of high
speed
>runs with an out of balance driveshaft that I haven't had corrected yet.
>
>So the first thing is... have the driveshaft balanced.  But what should I
do
>with the pinion nut?
>
>Should I just tighten the nut to the point it was before?  I know these
things
>need a certain amount of preload on the bearing.  My friend works at a GM
>dealer and he says that when they replace a pinion seal they just replace
the
>nut and put an 1/8" more turn on it.  Is this what I should do?  Any help
>would be appreciated.
>
>Vince Knight
>71 Cutlass Supreme Convert
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 11:13:50 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Door Hinge Spring

>For replacing bushings and pins in door hinges, there is a tool to compress
>and safely remove the spring on the lower hinge. Mechanic friend of mine
got
>one from a SnapOn tool truck for about $15.00.

Yup, I bought one from an auto body paint supply store. Beats the hell outa
using a screwdriver and pliers. That spring is a mother to get back in
without the tool.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 11:20:35 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Stripe Paint Touch-Up

>QUESTION: is it possible to use the white touch-up paint and try and even
>out the squared off portions with a fine paint brush?? Will this look good?
>I can't clear it anymore so will this show?

It'll show. There will be a difference in depth because of the clear. Sorry.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 11:28:57 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Emissions

>catalytic converters come in a variety of types: monolithic (mono-cat -
>ceramic honeycomb block), pellet (beads used in bed....

<snip buncha tech stuff>

Damn, didn't know there were so many varieties. So, how does one pick the
right replacement cat for a specific application?

If I go to NAPA they give me either (what their catalog calls) an exact
replacement, or a "universal" el-cheapo model. Are the aftermarket
replacements as effective as the OEM $$ cats?

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 11:34:59 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rear woe

I hope your not listening to these guys who say just torque to specs , just
tighten, add locktight, do What I said thats the right and only way for your
rear to be set up correct....thanks again for the reply on my answer 2 days
ago..have a great holiday 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 12:08:13 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1674

> Hello all,

 I'm a little confused about the engine offset thread. I believe all GM cars 
and pickups have the engine offset to the
right[pass side]. I've done a bit of chassis and tin work [backhalving, 
narrowing rears, etc], and i've found just about all
of the cars of various brands that i've "hacked" on have had the drivetrains 
offset.

 I can't remember for sure, but I think on the GMs it's about 1/2" from 
center. Assuming it is a 1/2" offset, this would
mean that when measuring from the driveshaft yoke/crank C/L, etc, to the 
frame/body, etc, one would find a measurement that
would be 1" different from one side to the other.
[an engine offset of 1/2" takes 1/2" from one side, and adds 1/2" to the other]

 So, is the  supreme's engine offset more than the normal amount, or not?

Dave Brode
64 Cutlass w/ 10" engine setback [still offset]

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 11:25:01 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: ENGINE OFFSET

Vince,
You basically hit the nail on the head as to what started this whole thing.
To keep a long story short, this engine offset has been labeled a myth
due to lack of part #'s, documentation, or any other info that would
substantiate the supposed offset.  Several people have measured thier
engines (both Supremes and S models) and found no offset (with one
dissenting opinion).

It would make sense to do on a race car to balance the car (offset driver
wieght) but only on a road race car, oval track they bias the wieght to
the left side anyway.  Nuff said.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>I don't think I caught the beginning of this subject discussion, and I
really
>don't want to belabor this, but I was looking through an October Car Craft
and
>saw an entry in the "Ask Marlan" section about this subject.  (sorry if
>someone has already mentioned this)  Marlan replies "matter of fact like"
that
>yes, "On Supreme and Cutlass S cars, the engine is moved 1 inch off-center
to
>the right from the normal Cutlass or 4-4-2 mounting position"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 13:37:16 -0400
From: "Brian Smith" <smithclan@sprint.ca>
Subject: Valve Spring Height

To all the Olds Engine Experts:

What is the correct height for valve springs for a 71 G Head, which I think
has rotators on both intake and exhaust valves? Don't the heads with
rotators take a different height spring  than non-rotator heads?

Thanks and Happy HolidaysTo All
Brian
71 SX

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 12:58:01 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Re: even MORE bench racing

HOME FOR GOOD, not GOD, thats a My bad

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 12:57:46 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Re: even MORE bench racing

I would like to see somthing where all of the 350s get dyno'd. They all have
basic upgrades from stock (Edelbrock intake, 650 holley, mild cam, etc), and
all have to run on pump gas. It would be intresting to see what 350 is the
best smallblock for the buck. We all know the Buick 350 will just run on Oil,
so we dont have to worry about them ;). Maybe just dyno 350 crate engines.
I've see Olds 350 Crate engines, Buick, Pontiac, and Chevy (all rated around
300hp). I think that would be fun, or maybe I'm just dumb.

Kelly Erickson
1966 Cutlass (its home for god)
1954 Super 88 (its for sale, anyone want it?)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 11:47:15 -0700
From: Roger Peterson <rkp@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Emissions

Dave... As a general rule, when you have the option of choosing between OEM
and aftermarket cats, I encourage folks to consider aftermarket.
Essentially, what you want from a catalytic converter is for it to provide
catalyst.  Providing the quality of construction is adequate and the
necessary heat shielding is in place, any cat that fits and performs should
be fine.  For example, I have a vehicle for which the dealer would gladly
sell me a new cat for $1200.  I respectfully declined his offer in favor of a
generic cat that would have to be located down stream of the original.  This
is where this gets complicated.  Changing the location of a cat "...alters
the design and thus, while it may respect the intent of the Clean Air Act, it
doesn't follow the letter of the law."  This according to my local Arizona
Department of Environmental Quality official.  In other words, if you modify
the design or location of your cat, you're taking your chances.  I elected to
take chances.  It's the outcome (tailpipe emissions) that matter most.  In my
case, the manufacturer had a design flaw that I could prove was faulty, so my
modification was intended as an improvement to that fault.  No matter that
the cat I elected to use was nearly a thousand dollars cheaper.  They both
produce the same result given sufficient heat and oxygen to support proper
catalytic reaction.  Knowing me, I'd look at performance cats, and I'd pick
one that maintained the same fit and design characteristics of the original
(where practicable), and at a minimum, I'd want one that reduced the
pollutants applicable to my car (pre- or post-IM240).  Be sure you know why
you're replacing a cat.  If it's plugged up, there may be an underlying cause
that needs to be repaired.  Roger:)

Dave Cullen wrote:

> >catalytic converters come in a variety of types: monolithic (mono-cat -
> >ceramic honeycomb block), pellet (beads used in bed....
>
> <snip buncha tech stuff>
>
> Damn, didn't know there were so many varieties. So, how does one pick the
> right replacement cat for a specific application?
>
> If I go to NAPA they give me either (what their catalog calls) an exact
> replacement, or a "universal" el-cheapo model. Are the aftermarket
> replacements as effective as the OEM $$ cats?
>
> drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 14:00:05 -0400
From: "Mike or Dennis Sytsma" <sytsma@gzinc.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: Need TSB's for 94 astro van please

From: Dennis Jon Sytsma Homestead Florida http://home.gzinc.com/sytsma/
TO: Robert Frisch Membership Committee Chairperson Oldsmobile Club Of
Florida
Subject: Need Technical Service Bulletins (TSB's) for 1994 Cheverolet Astro
Van

Happy Holidays Bob;

Thank you for your prior email response to my inquiry.

I recently contacted the local Oldsmobile/Chevrolet dealer's Service Manager
as you suggested.  The Service Mgr. refused to give me this information. He
said TSB's are not for use by the public. I told him I could get the
information from the federal agency the "National Highway Traffic Safety
Administration"  (NHTSA).  This action would cost me a research and
publication fee of unknown amount ( I expect $500.00). Good information on
this is "good to know" for any automobile owner using the information at
Internet address:

http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/

I think it would be a good idea for the Oldsmobile club of Florida (OCF)
publish a article on this in their newsletter to inform club members of this
federal resource of consumer information.  Maybe later I will write a
article using this email after I solve my own problem, and educate myself on
automotive consumer complaints in the State of Florida in this process.

I had filed a complaint in June of 1998 with Miami-Dade County division of
consumer affairs.  They advised me to file suit if I was so inclined. I do
not wish to pursue litigation in this matter since the outcome is often
uncertain and can be expensive.   Recently I filed a complaint with the
State of Florida's " Florida Dept of Agriculture and Consumer Services"
(DOACS) using their new on line complaint form at Intenet address
http://doacs.state.fl.us/consumer/index.html

They (DOACS) have my complaint under review at this time.  I find I can also
file a complaint with National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA)
, but I await the outcome of the complaint with the state of Florida(DOACS)
.  I have some $1800.00 at stake, and a "GM Goodwrench" implied warranty
that I would like to have better defined. By taking these actions, I will
document my complaint, and I hope can use this documentation to recover
$1800.00 when future TSB's are issued, or a general recall is issued on the
Air Conditioning (A/C) Compressor design that I think is unreliable, and
caused the problems with my vehicle that resulted in extensive repairs.  GM
has discontinued use of this compressor, and has a number of TSB's issued on
the A/C failures for this Vehicle Identification Number (VIN).

I recently purchased a CD ROM at KMART in the automotive section for $17.99
(on sale)  from Popular Science Magazine that informs me that TSB's (also
called secret warranties) can be obtained for a additional fee. The CD ROM
is from alldata corp.  I contacted alldata at their website address :
http://www.alldata.com/consumer/

Alldata tells me the TSB CD ROM for 1994 gm's will be released later this
year.

In the interim I will write to general motors consumer affairs to request
the TSB information and hope they will agree to provide it for a nominal
fee.

I have taken the liberty of sending you and other Officers of the Oldsmobile
club of Florida (OCF) this information for "informational purposes" to share
with the OCF membership within the purview of their office as they feel
appropriate.  This message also serves to test my email list to OCF members,
so any OCF members reading it please respond in some manner to confirm good
OCF chapter communications, and update my email addressbook.

Regards
Dennis Sytsma Member OCF
Homestead, Florida

1970 Olds 98 LS
1977 Olds Vista Cruiser Station Wagon
1994 Cheverolet Truck Astro Van LS

http://home.gzinc.com/sytsma/
Please reply to: sytsma@gzinc.com






- -----Original Message-----
From: Rhfjr@aol.com <Rhfjr@aol.com>
To: sytsma@gzinc.com <sytsma@gzinc.com>
Date: Monday, November 30, 1998 6:56 PM
Subject: Re: Fw: Need TSB's for 94 astro van please


>Contact Chevrolet and be specific.
>
>Bob

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 14:05:03 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: RE: cutlass supreme engine offset

> currently get a slight interference between the headers and the brake
> proportioning valve.
____________

The relocation of the proportioning valve is required to put headers on any
Olds A-body (convert, HT, or Supreme).  Several of the header sets I've
installed came with instructions that recommended it.  Also, the fact that
one particular set of headers had clearance problems with one particular
chassis is unfortunately only one data point and really doesn't prove
anything about engine offset (particularly if the fit problem was on the
driver's side - the rumored offset is towards the _passenger_ side).  Note
that there's a lot of variability in header production tolerances.  I've
encounered fit problems with headers in 2 dr HTs many times; the Kenne-Bell
headers in my 70 W-30 are a prime example.  If you have a particular set of
headers, install them in a coupe, then install the same set in the same
year convertible (with the same engine and same accessories, and ensuring
that the correct motor mounts have been used) and find a difference in the
fit, then we can talk.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 14:09:39 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Signing off for a while (Was Re: '99 Olds Nats??)

...have room for a Vega?
Lou
________

Shouldn'd be hard, right?  All you need is a small box to hold all the iron
oxide powder...  ;-)

Joe (I used to own one) Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 14:14:14 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: re; w-29 option

wait a minute,  are saying here that in 72 the only way to tell if it was a
true 442 was if it had a X in the vin?  or was this to identify it as a
w-30?
steven,  w30442cs@aol.com
_________

There was no explicit way to tell from the VIN that the car is a 442 (for
the 72 cars), however the X would prove that the car was a W-30 (which
obviously would make it a 442 or possibly a 72 H/O).  Non-W-30 442s carried
different engine codes, such as a U for the lesser 455.  This is the same
situation for the 64-67 cars, which also did not have unique VINs for 442s.
Only the 68-71 442s carried the unique VIN.

Joe Padavano
padavavno.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 14:21:54 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: re; w-29 option

> Yes, the W-30 had the X in the VIN.  The 72 H/O did too, I believe.

Hope not, because if I'm looking at the right title my 72 Hurst does not
have an X in the VIN and it looks original enough to be original...
_________

Not to worry, Don, the W-30 was optional in the 72 H/O.  If yours has the
other 455, there should be a U in the VIN instead of the X.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 14:35:35 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Current Bench-Racing Session (Was 8000 RPM 350, Etc.)

Dave, Mike, and the rest of the list:


The dialogue you're participating in is JUST what this list was created for!
I'm enjoying reading the info, and have kept some of these for future
reference.  Someday (not too far from now, I hope) I plan on doing some SCCA
road racing in a 77 Cutlass-bodied ex-"roundy-round" (as Dave Smith calls 'em)
car, and eventually building a true road-racing GT-1 car, possibly a late
60's/early 70's Cutlass or 442 lookalike.  The idea of an expanded RPM range
is something to consider, as some of the courses I'll be racing on have
multiple configurations (Heartland Park Topeka has 5) and the courses from
track to track are different lengths, so either I'll need several dozen rear
gear sets (really expensive), many different transmission gearsets (can be
done, but the trannys that do this are kinda expensive), or an engine that can
have a very wide power band and high RPM potential.  The discussion ongoing
lets me glean out the info pertinent to this project and store it for future
use.

In a seperate posting, I'll be asking for info on a horse of a different
color, and I hope I can get some ideas that are as good as some of the info
I've read so far.  Keep it up!

Take Care, and Happy Holidays!
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 13:44:18 -0800
From: steven@purplemonkey.com (Steven Saraceno)
Subject: re: w-29 option

I've read many places that the W-30 was not available on the H/O in 72
which means someone probably owns one somewhere.

Steven
70 W-30 convertoble
OCA 021442

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 15:01:14 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Restricted Racing Engine Info Requested

Listmembers,

Since there's been a spirited dialog going on about high-RPM 350's, I thought
I'd ask about another scenario I'll be facing next year at our local asphalt
oval.  Our track rules call out a 358 cubic inch engine, 350 CFM Holley
2-barrel carb, specific Moroso carb adapter (no changes allowed to it),
Edelbrock Performer intake (again, no changes of any kind allowed) and 11 to 1
compression ratio.  In addition, we'll be using a solid lifter cam and roller
rockers, a custom built oil pan will keep the oil where we need it and there
are some custom headers being built for it, we have a set to test some ideas
with that are the routing we'll be using, but the primaries are probably twice
as long as they need to be.  Here's some areas of discussion I'd like to ask
about:

1) Most of the cars at the track only rev up to 6300-6500, the carb won't flow
enough to get much higher that that on the typical C-word 350.  When we ran
unrestricted I could always run with the C-word engines at 6800 where they ran
up to 7200.  If the C-word racers don't spin much over 6300, should I try to
keep it around that or go even less and work on low-RPM torque?

2) Speaking of torque and low RPM's, the track is fairly low banked to almost
flat.  There's a lot of change in engine speed during one lap of the track, so
we need to get the power down low.  Any ideas about rough cam profiles
(approximate numbers)?

3) Will using the 2" intake valves be necessary given the restriction of the
carb?  All we can do is replace the valves and polish the combustion chambers,
nothing else.

Thanks for considering these questions, I'll gladly add any other needed info
upon request.

Take Care, and Happy Holidays!
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 14:12:59 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile POS for sale

Gutlass, 
Right off the bat you have negative attitude, "Gutlass", creates a bad
image, creates a mind set, the power of positive thinking will overcome any
adversity, but, if you want to sell it cheap, keep me in mind. Hang in
there guy, it's gets worse. Seriously, can we help?
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
PS No (snip), would ruin the subject matter
- ----------
> From: Gutlass66@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Oldsmobile POS for sale
> Date: Friday, December 18, 1998 5:49 PM
> 
> 1966 Cutlass
> 330ci 60,000mi
> Car has 88,000
> 2dr
> Auto
> Buckets
> White with black inter.
> AM 2 speaker radio
> 
> I'm really pissed off at my car, if you wanna make an offer, i might sell
it.
> It died in the f*ckin' middle of the road. I still love the car, I just
am
> really really really mad. I have lost all faith in oldsmobiles

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 15:18:10 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile POS for sale

woh, you guys are too nice, I wish my family was this nice, they dont like me.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 15:25:21 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile POS for sale

Gutlass66@aol.com wrote:
> 
> woh, you guys are too nice, I wish my family was this nice, they dont like 
me.

Uh, are you by chance using their car for parts?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 15:27:53 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile POS for sale

nah, I'm kinda a "smartass" to my mom, she thinks my car is a rusty thing that
makes the house look "whitetrash", and uses it to put bird feeders up and
stuff, the car has come between my mom. My dad has to stick up for my car and
her, so he's in the middle, its along story...
Kelly Erickson
1966 Cutlass (home forever)
1954 Super 88 (for sale, make offer)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 15:49:49 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: 72 HURST OLDSMOBILES

Got to thinking today (Okay, I know this is a rare occurrence, but it's
raining pretty hard in KY.) about a previous attempt or two at people
organizing lists of various types of Oldsmobiles.  I was wondering if
anyone has or knows of a list of 72 Hurst owners currently available. 
Having said that, I would like to try and get the following info  on
these cars:

VIN 
Date of manufacture
Options OTHER than the usual ones (i.e. sunroof, manual trans, gauge 
package, etc)
Current mileage
Owner
City and State of location
Telephone number if you would like to provide it
Other relevant info 

Please send any information to me direct to 1. cut down on list traffic
and 2. to kind of keep the responses a little more private.  If you send
this info and DO NOT want it to go any further, please state that in
your email.  I WILL NOT RELEASE ANY INFORMATION TO ANYONE ON THESE
VEHICLES UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES.  (As a tax accountant I am used to
dealing with confidential information, so that is not a problem for
me.)  I have gotten more than a little curious about the VINs and how
spread out they are amongst the other Cutlai in 1972 from some of the
VINs I see going across the list.  So, I figured the best way to find
out about them was to ask.  With only 629 (220 or so with the sunroof I
believe) of them out there, I am curious as to how many survive.  I have
heard of two that are no longer around over the years.  Thanks to anyone
that choses to help out. I have been on this list about two years, so I
have no outside agenda for trying to get this together.  I would
appreicate any information you chose to volunteer (not a good word in
Ky).  If this information is already available somewhere hopefully
someone can give me an idea where to access it.

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky
72 Hurst 3J57UM223485
69, 70 an 72 Cutlai

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 14:56:58 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile POS for sale

You DON'T have to hear, I could write a letter longer than "War and Peace",
an anthology of what can mess and up and why it shouldn't have.
Lou

- ----------
> From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> We've all been through this. Stick with the car or you'll be one of those
> guys who other Olds guys meet who go "Man I really loved that car,
shouldn't
> have sold it."

> A quick list of what I've stuck through
(snip)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 17:04:00 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Electronic Delco AM/FM/cassette FS

Remember a few days ago we were talking about how certain modern Delco
sound systems fit mid-70s Olds dashes? I found one on eBay that I think is
what was being discussed. Take a look:

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=49745771

I'd buy it myself but I'm eBay'ed out right now... no cash!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 15:07:31 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: passing emissions tests (long post)

Roger, 
Just a thought to the folks, that 14.7 mixture is in weight, not volume,
hence, gasoline is a tad heavier then air, so, were talking about a whole
sh*tload of air compared to the fuel. Just a clarification, well said,
Roger!
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
 --
> From: Roger Peterson <rkp@uswest.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: passing emissions tests (long post)
> Date: Friday, December 18, 1998 9:23 PM
> 
> Barb... Perhaps I can shed some useful light on the emissions issue.  I
> promise not to go overboard and to keep it short.  CO (carbon monoxide)
is
> burned fuel.  If CO is high, the corresponding air fuel ratio is likely
rich
> (too much fuel in comparison to the amount of air being drawn into the
> cylinders by your vacuum pumps [pistons]) and you have too much burned
fuel in
> the exhaust.  This is also discussed in terms of Stoichiometry or the
> Stoichiometric fuel mixture: the theoretically ideal mixture being
somewhere
> around 14.7:1 (or 14.7 parts air to one part fuel).  There's good news in
this
> scenerio in that at least the fuel is burned (meaning your engine's
combustion
> efficiency and ignition system are working at least fairly well).  Most
> likely, you need to tweak the mixture.
> 
> Alternatively, HC (hydrocarbons) is unburned fuel.  If HC is high, this
is an
> indication that something is preventing the air fuel mixture from being
> sufficiently burned.  You have unburned fuel in the exhaust.  Causes
could be
> many: poor ignition (which goes beyond mere ignition systems), poor
ignition
> with poor Stoichiometry, fuel delivery interferrence such as vacuum
leaks, or
> a combination of the three, etc.  HC has the potential to become a more
> complex problem, but not unsolvable.  There's much to be said for the
fine art
> of logical deduction.  Lastly, for space reasons, I've kept this
discussion
> quite brief (given the subject matter), and I've deliberately avoided
NOx, but
> it's out there too...  Somehow, I'm sure it'll come up.
> 
> In all likelyhood I've started a thread here since this is a subject most
> mechanics and automobile enthusiasts like/love/hate to debate, but it is
my
> sincere hope that I've opened a door (if only by the slightest amount).
> Roger:)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 19 Dec 1998 15:12:49 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: You are all ignoring Karl

Mark,
K cannot speak, he signs to SOM, so actually the Olds types the responses
we receive. Little known and little cared for information. 
Lou
- ----------
> From: WMACHINES@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: You are all ignoring Karl
> Date: Friday, December 18, 1998 10:56 PM
> 
> Hey Karl, why do you always tell info in the third person.  Do you have a
> split personality?  I am just wondering.  I like to talk to people direct
with
> no BS.  Remember, I am not conceided but convinced that is why they call
me
> Mr. Personality.  :)   
> 
> W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
> 72 Oldsmobile Guru

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1675
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