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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1612


oldsmobile-digest      Friday, November 20 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1612



Re: garage space, long 
Re: speedo gear info
Caddy And Olds - Same B/H Pattern?
Re: garage space, long
Re: motor check stand
Re: motor test stand
Re: motor check stand
Re: Keeping a car dry (Re: garage space, long)
Re: Battery in Trunk - ideas?
Re: Valve Covers
Re: garage space, long 
LIST
Re: parking brake
Re: Rear end
Re: garage space, long
Re: motor test stand
Re: Caddy And Olds - Same B/H Pattern?
Those Damn Blue Headlights
Re: Battery in Trunk - ideas?
Re: Valve Covers
RE: motor check stand
Re: Cryogenic Bearings
Re: Valve Covers
Re: SB rear main seal
Re: Valve Covers
RE: Battery in Trunk - ideas?
Re: Valve Covers
Re: How to tell gear
Re: Keeping a car dry
Re: garage space, long 
Re: Those Damn Blue Headlights
Silicone ? Re: Valve Covers
Fwd: Updated Website
Updated Website - Joe Sherbanenko
About the Intake
Thank you to the list members...
Re: garage space, long
Re: Battery in Trunk - ideas?
Re: garage space, long
Balance (Was motor check stand)
Re: Valve Covers
Trade Manuals?
Re: Those Damn Blue Headlights
Re: Those Damn Blue Headlights
Re: Those Damn Blue Headlights
Re: Valve Covers
Re: Those Damn Blue Headlights
Re: Valve Covers
Re: Valve Covers
Re: SB rear main seal
POR-15 : Pleucid
Re: motor check stand
Re: Valve Covers
Mondello:Prices!?
Re: Valve Covers
Olds 455 oiling system
Re: intersting spotting...
Re: Olds 455 oiling system
Re: Olds 455 oiling system

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 17:32:41 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: garage space, long 

Mark, 
Great idea, I didn't think of it at all, thanks. Know anything about car
covers? Bought this one for outside use, didn't think I'd have to use it
for that. Either snow on the trunk, or the front end, depending how I park
it. Worried less in "Nam", Those were just bullets, not OLDSMOBILES. thanks
guy.
Lou

- ----------
> From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: garage space, long
> Date: Thursday, November 19, 1998 5:02 PM
> 
> Lou,
> 
> How about a nice big sheet of plastic over the dirt floor before parking
> your car on it.
> It's a cheap fix.
> 
> Mark Hahn
> 75 Delta 88
> Cincinnati, Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 18:34:05 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: Re: speedo gear info

Hello,
 I've had good luck choosing a speedo driven gear this way;
1. Determine what percentage the speedo is off - go 10 miles on the
freeway, counting the mile markers to determine the percentage of
"incorrectness".
2. Count the number of teeth on your driven gear.
3. Calculate the teeth count needed on the new gear.
 In other words, if your odometer[and therefore your speedo] is 10%
slow, you need a driven gear with 10% less teeth, and vice versa.
 Hope this helps.
Dave Brode 
64 Cutlass 10" tire, pump gas street car. 11.41@119.96

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 18:47:40 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Caddy And Olds - Same B/H Pattern?

Joe/List,

Is it true that Cadillac's use the BOP design on the bellhousing/transmission
case?  I didn't know that, gives me another place to look for a FWD platform
to go in a project I'm planning.  I'd rather cut up an Eldo than a Toronado!

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
ks7racing@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 02 Nov 1998 16:48:52 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: garage space, long

If you can you should get a door on there.  I have used a
car cover and just had my car outside for the last 2 winters
and it hasn't rusted away.  The cover protected the top side
well except where the wind moved it a little bit and it
dulled the paint.  With the 3 walls you won't have that
problem.  I do notice however, that the booster is rusting
and there may be a couple of spots underneath (haven't
looked).  This is Alberta where the humidity will average
about 10% or so :)  Also note that steering wheels crack
from the cold in the winter but if it's still 70 out then
you probably don't get that cold.

A bigger problem may be rodents.  Mice can be a problem even
if they do not get inside.  They will chew up the hood
liner, rubber hoses, battery cables, wiring, and spark plug
wires.  If they get inside then things get real ugly.  You
may also have a problem with the 2 legged rodents who will
vandalize a car just for fun or steal everything.  You
should poison them if possible.  Try Bar-Bait for the mice.

I put up a small "instant garage" 2"x1" wood frame and
plastic tarp structure this year.  As long as it's on high
ground this should keep the moisture from collecting around
and under the car.  I'll also be placing little mouse houses
filled with poison around the car.  I'll let you know how it
worked in the spring.

On a more interesting note, one of newsmagazines has a
"What's Cool" section that recently featured an inflatable
car bubble.  They showed it with a Harley inside and stated
that you inflate it with a fan and it is available in car
sizes.  If it really did hold air I'd be tempted to get a
bottle of inert gas from a welding shop and fill it with
that.

Good luck.

Lou Biggs wrote:
> 
> To All,
> 
> Running out of garage space, want to store 75 Cutlass in friends garage 
<snip>
> 
> Lou Biggs
> lbiggs@intertek.net

- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 18:52:30 -0500
From: Jim Donoghue <jdonogh1@ford.com>
Subject: Re: motor check stand

I was trying to do the same thing once - with an old 350 diesel someone
gave me. I set it on a piece of 3/4" plywood, on the ground, that I had
bolted a couple of 2x4's to (fit under the front of the oil pan) and set
a couple of jackstands so they were kind of under the exhaust manifolds
(the top part was between the manifold and the block -kind of). I had
rigged it so it wouldn't move around much. Hooked some fuel hose to a
diesel can and a couple of battery cables up to it, and took the belts
off, plugged the lower radiator hose, and filled it with water from
where the thermostat goes (so there was something to dissipate heat
into). Then I fired it up! I wouldn't suggest you rev it up or leave it
running like that for any length of time. I just wanted to see if the
thing would run. Strange, seeing a running engine on the ground in the
middle of a driveway! Done this also with a v6 diesel, in the back of a
pickup truck. Now I have a 'stand' made out of some angle iron pieces
that bolts to the motor mount holes.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 18:56:38 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: Re: motor test stand

Hello,
 It may sound bizzar to some, but i worked for a junkyard 20 years ago,
and i tested[ran] many engines hanging from the rafters by a sturdy
chain. They engine tries to twist a bit when you whack the throttle, but
it worked fine.
 I've since then built test stands[legs] out of angle iron, utilizing
the bolt holes on the end of the heads, with the four legs extending to
the floor at apx 45 degree angle. This allows for a nice wide base.
Dave Brode
64 Cutlass 10" tire pump gas street car. 11.41@119.96

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 19:15:22 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: motor check stand

Dorian, George, et al,

I know I'd like to have a stand around here to start up an engine up on.
Since I like to have at least one spare engine for Grace ready to install, I
need a place to start one up and break it in (at least somewhat) so we can
check vital information before going to the track with an untried engine.
I've actually witnessed people change the engine in a race car at the track -
the engine crapped out during hot laps and they had it replaced in time to
start the feature (although they had to start last for not making the heat
races).

If anyone has any plans for building a stand, let me know how it turns out.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
ks7racing@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 19:02:59 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Keeping a car dry (Re: garage space, long)

>
>Could a person use silica gel packets to help control moisture around or
>in
>a car?
>
>Just wondering.


Well yes, but....ummm....

A heated, dehumidified garage would be better and cheaper.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 18:58:03 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Battery in Trunk - ideas?

>The mounting plate to my ' 72 Cutlass has rusted in a couple of critical
>place. I am strongly conciddering the possibility of mounting my batter in
>the trunk. So now to my question.... 
>Have any of you done this before? 

Nope...no room in there. The ex-wife's body takes up the whole trunk.

:)
drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 19:14:19 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Valve Covers

It is comon for valve covers to have raised areas on the interior side at
the point of through bolts.  Folks wap 'em down too tight and pooch 'em out.
The fix is to lay the cover edge on a flat surface and gently massage the
surface back to flat with a modest hammer, striking it on the inner surface.
When re-installing pay attention to the torque spec.  The cover does not
have to be tight to seal.  It has to be flat, true and snug.  Chances are
the gasket will compress after a day or so, and then a delicate hand is
needed to just snug up the hardware.  Good luck.  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 19:38:40 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: garage space, long 

And it was warm there, too.  Me, I worried, 24-7.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, November 19, 1998 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: garage space, long


>Mark,
>Great idea, I didn't think of it at all, thanks. Know anything about car
>covers? Bought this one for outside use, didn't think I'd have to use it
>for that. Either snow on the trunk, or the front end, depending how I park
>it. Worried less in "Nam", Those were just bullets, not OLDSMOBILES. thanks
>guy.
>Lou
>
>----------
>> From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: garage space, long
>> Date: Thursday, November 19, 1998 5:02 PM
>>
>> Lou,
>>
>> How about a nice big sheet of plastic over the dirt floor before parking
>> your car on it.
>> It's a cheap fix.
>>
>> Mark Hahn
>> 75 Delta 88
>> Cincinnati, Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 19:55:11 EST
From: Monkey2351@aol.com
Subject: LIST

unsubscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 19:56:15 EST
From: CNC40@aol.com
Subject: Re: parking brake

I've always seen the parking mechanism on the rear drums!!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 20:00:12 +0000
From: "Joe Gerschutz" <gerschjt@flyernet.udayton.edu>
Subject: Re: Rear end

While on the subject . . . what should I look for when looking for a 
replacement rear end?  Anything specific with the axle's?  How 
bout opening it up and looking at the gears.  Anything specific?  
Also is there a way to tell if its posi while its open?  This is for 
a G-body but I assume it applies to all diffs.  I would like one out 
of a MCSS, RegalT, 442, or GN.  

TIA,
JOE

PS Roger, I have a 7.5" 2.14 I'd part with if you twisted my arm.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 20:12:19 EST
From: Monkey2351@aol.com
Subject: Re: garage space, long

I'm sure to get a lot of flack for this, but the best and cheapest fix is to
undercoat your car by spraying it with oil, and then driving up a dirt road.
The dirt will stick and protect your car from moisture until you hose it off
next spring.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 19:12:47 -0600
From: bloom9@juno.com (C K)
Subject: Re: motor test stand

This is a really cool trick!! I work for a major airline in facility
maintenance, and hey, sometimes when you have to test something, the
simplest hook-up is the best. Remember, most of the time bolting a piece
of epuipment down to a frame is just to secure it in case the structure
it rests upon moves and of course stopping and starting.
Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass

On Thu, 19 Nov 1998 18:56:38 -0500 David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
writes:
>Hello,
> It may sound bizzar to some, but i worked for a junkyard 20 years 
>ago,
>and i tested[ran] many engines hanging from the rafters by a sturdy
>chain. They engine tries to twist a bit when you whack the throttle, 
>but
>it worked fine.
> I've since then built test stands[legs] out of angle iron, utilizing
>the bolt holes on the end of the heads, with the four legs extending 
>to
>the floor at apx 45 degree angle. This allows for a nice wide base.
>Dave Brode
>64 Cutlass 10" tire pump gas street car. 11.41@119.96
>

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 17:29:27 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Caddy And Olds - Same B/H Pattern?

At 06:47 PM 11/19/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Joe/List,
>
>Is it true that Cadillac's use the BOP design on the bellhousing/transmission
>case?  I didn't know that, gives me another place to look for a FWD platform
>to go in a project I'm planning.  I'd rather cut up an Eldo than a Toronado!

yes they are the same patern.
Actually the are the same th425 transmission

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 20:33:48 EST
From: Cutw29@aol.com
Subject: Those Damn Blue Headlights

Just a quick question what's with all the new cars with those annoying blue
headlights?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 20:32:44 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: Battery in Trunk - ideas?

i bought a 25 foot length of 2 guage cable from jc whitney.  i think it was
about $35 total.  then went to a boating store ang bought a box for another 8.
the ends cost about $3.  soldered them on.  made a stainless steel strap and
used a f*rd solenoid.  starts every time even at 220 degrees.  i did run into
trouble with the routing of cable.  this setup was in my 73 cutlass w/403 and
headers.  i had to run the wire up above the tranny away from the exhaust.
then through the firewall.  that's about it.

mikeytvb@aol.com
70 442 w/455

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 20:42:45 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: Valve Covers

here's somewhat of a solution.  about the rtv....only use this on the valve
cover surface.  as for the torque specs.....forget what the book says.  find a
3/8 nut driver.  (kind of like a screw driver)  tighten them down just like
screws.  if you want to see if it's the cover, try switching sides.  just
switch the pcp valve and breather.  that's all i can think of right now.

mikeytvb@aol.com
70 442 w/455

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 20:48:51 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: motor check stand

Dorian,
I picked up a motor + tranny from a friend and took them home in the bed of
my truck.  That night I fired it up while it was still sitting in the bed.
No tie downs or restraints.
When I revved it, it rocked a little bit , but I could hold it pretty still
with my hand. I revved it to about 3500 rpm or so. Now you can gun it or it
will fall over.
You should have no problem test firing your engine on the stand.

Does the olds HAVE to have the flywheel bolted on for balancing when test
firing? They are internally balanced, right?

Good Luck,
Donny
72 442 


> ----------
> From: 	DYeager535@aol.com[SMTP:DYeager535@aol.com]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Thursday, November 19, 1998 2:18 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	motor check stand
> 
>       Alright, I know SOMEBODY on the list has run a motor that was out of
> a
> vehicle to test it. I have an Olds 350 I would like to test BEFORE going
> through the hassle of putting it in the car (cost $50 complete) My idea
> was to
> use the stub-frame from a Firebird (I happen to have one laying around) to
> bolt the engine too, and some weight on the back end of the stub-frame, to
> keep it secure. How much torque will it put out? I have never done this
> before, and assume that a motor bolted to nothing will torque itself right
> over, so I am trying to avoid this of course. Any thoughts, experiences
> that
> are helpful? Dorian
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 21:06:50 -0500
From: Gasman24 <stulk@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Cryogenic Bearings

Peter Landowski wrote:
> 
> Where  could you get your hands on some liquid nitrogen. I thought that
> stuff is off limits to the general public.
> Pettrix@prodigy.net
> 
> ----------
> > I'm not so sure about that, I work for a welding supply co. and if a 
person wants liquid nitrogen it's no big deal. But you do need a special 
container (wich we will gladly rent to you! LOL) because the liquid is VERY 
cold and will evaporate quickly. Scott

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 20:07:51 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: Valve Covers

I have one.  The thought never occured to me.

The idea here is that when you can't turn the nut driver anymore, that's as
tight as it needs to be?

At 07:42 PM 11/19/98 , you wrote:
>here's somewhat of a solution.  about the rtv....only use this on the valve
>cover surface.  as for the torque specs.....forget what the book says.
find a
>3/8 nut driver.  (kind of like a screw driver)  tighten them down just like
>screws.  if you want to see if it's the cover, try switching sides.  just
>switch the pcp valve and breather.  that's all i can think of right now.
>
>mikeytvb@aol.com
>70 442 w/455
> 
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 20:58:08 EST
From: Mr57olds@aol.com
Subject: Re: SB rear main seal

In a message dated 98-11-19 01:11:35 EST, you write:

<< < How on earth does a ONE PIECE rear main seal 
  fit on an Olds crank?  The only way I can imagine
  this could work would be by using the flexplate/
  flywheel mounting flange of the crank for a seal
  surface.  >>
 
      I don't know yet..machine shop said it will work too...haven't got the
 block back..we'll see. Dorian
  >>
Maybe they cut the flange off the crank.  Ought to make mounting the flywheel
or flex plate interesting.  
Mr57olds

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 20:10:08 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: Valve Covers

Dammit, in too much of a hurry, and sent that last too quick...

Can you tell me a REAL reason why the RTV should go on the bare valve cover
ONLY?  Once you put the gasket on the cover, does it HURT to make the RTV
"look nice", which translates to "works well"?  Or does the RTV _interfere_
with the gasket mating to the head surface?

At 07:42 PM 11/19/98 , you wrote:
>here's somewhat of a solution.  about the rtv....only use this on the valve
>cover surface.  as for the torque specs.....forget what the book says.
find a
>3/8 nut driver.  (kind of like a screw driver)  tighten them down just like
>screws.  if you want to see if it's the cover, try switching sides.  just
>switch the pcp valve and breather.  that's all i can think of right now.
>
>mikeytvb@aol.com
>70 442 w/455
> 
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 21:10:44 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: Battery in Trunk - ideas?

> >place. I am strongly conciddering the possibility of mounting my batter
> in
> >the trunk. So now to my question.... 
> >Have any of you done this before? 
> 
> Nope...no room in there. The ex-wife's body takes up the whole trunk.
> 
> :)
> drc
> 
> 
LOL !!!!!
You gotta stop man..  I'm crying here...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 21:11:33 EST
From: Mr57olds@aol.com
Subject: Re: Valve Covers

In a message dated 98-11-19 17:14:28 EST, you write:

<< and then I used the Fel-Pro cork gasket with the blue stripes on it.  Put
 Permatex Blue RTV on the cover, put the gasket on the cover, put RTV on top
 of the gasket.  Generally made sure that there was a sold blue barrier all
 the way around the edge.
 
 Installed the valve cover.  Chilton's said to torque to 36 INCH/LBS, which
 is a stupid number, since I've never seen a torque wrench that small...I
 just tightened the bolts until they seemed snug, and then did like a
 quarter turn after that. >>

I'm partial to Victor myself.   A couple of possible problems I see .  Better
off not using the RTV as it allows the gasket to slide off the head. Acts as a
lube until cured.  Also 36 in/lbs is 3 ft/lbs.  Snug and quarter turn and
gasket was likely alread off head between bolts.
my2centsworth
Mr57olds

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 19:23:59 -0800
From: "Tim Wurtz" <tropical@micron.net>
Subject: Re: How to tell gear

Assuming you are talking about the rearend gears! You will find the ratio of
the (ring & pinion gears) stamped on the ring gear itself. It will be in two
sets of numbers side by side. Example: 41 11 meaning 41 teeth on the ring
gear, and 11 on the pinion gear. You then divide the larger # by the smaller
#. in this case 3:73 ratio. Always round up to the next highest # if it
doesn't come out exactly an even 3 numbers. Hope this helps, Tim Wurtz
- -----Original Message-----
From: DROLDS350@aol.com <DROLDS350@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Cc: DROLDS350@aol.com <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Date: Thursday, November 19, 1998 3:13 PM
Subject: How to tell gear


>I was wondering how I tell what type of gear I have in my car. Is there
anyway
>I can figure this out?
>Thanks,
>Jim McKeague
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 21:36:51 EST
From: "Norm Baier" <nbaier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Keeping a car dry

I use this stuff like clay pebbles, but it comes in a fabric bag, tied 
at the top. It's a large bag maybe 8 inches long and about 4 wide. I set 
one in the car and one in the trunk. It works like silica gel   and 
wicks the moisture out of the surrounding air. The nice thing was it is 
re-usable. In the spring I'll take it out, spread it in an aluminum tray 
and bake it. Once cooled, it's ready to go again. I can't remember the 
name, but I'll post it here tomorrow. Can't remember where I got it... 
was more than a few years ago. Home Depot or a place like that, I think. 

Norm Baier


>
>Could a person use silica gel packets to help control moisture around 
>or in
>a car?
>
>Just wondering.


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 20:46:07 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: garage space, long 

Peter, 
Warm for sure, plus I really love leeches
Lou

- ----------
> From: Peter Berusch <pber710840@email.msn.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: garage space, long 
> Date: Thursday, November 19, 1998 6:38 PM
> 
> And it was warm there, too.  Me, I worried, 24-7.  Peter.
> -----Original Message-----

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 20:48:24 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Those Damn Blue Headlights

Must be those damn Germans,
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net


- ----------
> From: Cutw29@aol.com
> To: Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Those Damn Blue Headlights
> Date: Thursday, November 19, 1998 7:33 PM
> 
> Just a quick question what's with all the new cars with those annoying
blue
> headlights?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 19:50:49 -0800
From: "Tim Wurtz" <tropical@micron.net>
Subject: Silicone ? Re: Valve Covers

First of all get rid of the blue RTV it doesn't bond as well as standard
clear silicone. Go to the hardware store and buy a caulking gun and a tube
of clear silicone. When you pull off the old gaskets, spray brake cleaner on
all surfaces and let dry for a second or two before assembling again. Dought
it if your tappet cover is warped that bad. I believe it is all in your blue
RTV. I have never seen that that stuff actually work. Plus clear silicone
you don't see it as bad. I like it for shows and very nice street rods.
Colored silicone is not appealing in my book. Hope this helps you, Tim Wurtz
- -----Original Message-----
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, November 19, 1998 2:14 PM
Subject: Valve Covers


>OK, raise your hand if you're tired of hearing about my smoking 307...don't
>worry, I'm SICK of it.
>
>I redid the passenger's side valve cover.  By "redid", I mean that I had
>initially done the driver's and passenger's together.  Driver's is fine,
>passenger's leaked by #2 cylinder (and possibly others).  I thought that we
>did a pretty good job, but oh well.  So, I did it again.  I was very
>careful of removing all old gasket material from the head and the cover,
>and then I used the Fel-Pro cork gasket with the blue stripes on it.  Put
>Permatex Blue RTV on the cover, put the gasket on the cover, put RTV on top
>of the gasket.  Generally made sure that there was a sold blue barrier all
>the way around the edge.
>
>Installed the valve cover.  Chilton's said to torque to 36 INCH/LBS, which
>is a stupid number, since I've never seen a torque wrench that small...I
>just tightened the bolts until they seemed snug, and then did like a
>quarter turn after that.
>
>Went maybe 30 miles, and then started to leak again.  To investigate,
>sprayed florescent yellow paint on the block, oil pan, and
>manifold...confirmed that the oil on the manifold is coming from the valve
>cover (as opposed to fuel pump, oil pan, rear main, etc.) in several
>different places, twice under bolt holes, once in the middle of the cover,
>and again by the #2 cylinder (the actual leak point is obscured by the air
>distribution thing).  The forward leak is the worst, causing a goodly
>amount of oil to run around the front lower leading edge of the block, run
>onto the manifold on the upper block side, and start to make me and my
>passengers sick.
>
>I see three possibilities:
>
>1.  SOMEHOW, the installation procedure was flawed (I don't think so, but
>what do YOU think?)
>
>2.  Head mounting surface is warped (how would this happen?)
>
>3.  Valve cover is warped (I'm seriously leaning towards this one.  Would
>completely explain two faulty installs, plus makes me look better...)
>
>Does anyone have anything to offer to this?  I'm kind of pissed (to say the
>least) about this problem not being fixed despite my concerted and exacting
>measures to the contrary, and would really like to know if I'm missing
>something (due to hard-headedness in just not wanting to admit fault, or
>due to ignorance).
>
>TIA,
>
>
>-------------------------------------------------------------
> Brian Ammons Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
> MIS Major - UT Austin b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
> 2903 Breeze Terrace http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
> Austin, TX 78722 Home : (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
> 1984 Oldsmobile (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
> Delta 88 Pager: (512) 483-8056
>   4-door (713) 318-5938
>-------------------------------------------------------------
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 19:25:03 -0800 (PST)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Fwd: Updated Website

- --0-572660336-911532303=:10564
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note: forwarded msg attached.


==
John McJunkin ( The Sman ) mailto:super442@yahoo.com  
  ICQ # 16956740      Lithia Springs, Ga.
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442 
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts    
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

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From: JCRASH7@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 22:01:25 EST
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Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List - http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/

Hey, I did a MAJOR renovation to my website.  No gbodies there YET, hopefully
I'll find me a Cutlass one of these days... For now, all that's there is the
Broham (84 Delta).

Anyway, the URL is

http://members.tripod.com/jcrash7/

Joe Sherbanenko


______________________________________________________________________
To unsubscribe, write to olds_gbody-unsubscribe@listbot.com
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- --0-572660336-911532303=:10564--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 19:27:15 -0800 (PST)
From: S-MAN <super442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Updated Website - Joe Sherbanenko

Hey, I did a MAJOR renovation to my website.  No gbodies there YET,
hopefully
I'll find me a Cutlass one of these days... For now, all that's there
is the
Broham (84 Delta).

Anyway, the URL is

http://members.tripod.com/jcrash7/

Joe Sherbanenko




==
John McJunkin ( The Sman ) mailto:super442@yahoo.com  
  ICQ # 16956740      Lithia Springs, Ga.
TOPLESS--1985 Cutlass--frog442's 84---my 69 442 
1982 Cutlass Cruiser Wagon(g-body)--soon to be V-8 !
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
Check out my Burnout page-send me pics of your's and I'll add it
- -http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts    
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 19:45:26 PST
From: "Shadow Fox" <ladykitsu@hotmail.com>
Subject: About the Intake

Okay ya'll here goes...I'm going to try to answer all the replies all in 
one so pardon me if this is very random :)

Cliff - no need for the flame suit, I was in a hurry and forgot to add 
my location (Dallas, TX area FYI)....I'm horribly lazy at email ;)

Okay  now to *hopefully* shed a little light on what probably wasn't 
clear before.  My choke never worked, even on the 'old' set up (that is 
- - before the engine was replaced). The choke was tied open, I believe it 
was because the choke broke. Right now the choke is again tied open. The 
carb that was in there was rebuilt, which is how I found out the problem 
with the choke (I've a lot to learn about cars).

Kevin Noon - 66 Dynamic 88 Convertible.....AAAHHH, the original car of 
my dreams...would ya consider trading for a 66 Delta 88 with a few 
problems <grin> As for the intake, I'm going to have to  check the carb 
and check with the guy who rebuilt it to make absolutly *SURE* that I 
get the right one.

From what I was told it can be an intake from 68-69, 400, 425 or 455, 
and it is indeed a divorced choke....BTW, does anyone also have the 
'Choke Rod' that attaches it to the choke.

Thanks to all the replies both private and public, I *really* appreciate 
all the help and I will get back to everyone who has written me privatly 
soon as possible.

Laura
66 Delta 88 aka Pook the ghost car
Dallas, TX

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 22:54:21 -0500
From: Shawn <shawno22@erols.com>
Subject: Thank you to the list members...

To all list members...

     I have not contributed too much to this list in the past 2 years, but
I have lurked in the shadows grabbing as much info as I can.  I have been
trying to restore my 1984 Cutlass Supreme for 2 years now and I have
succeeded beyond my own expectations, especially considering that I am by
no means mechanically inclined.  I had a problem with a high idle when
coming to a stop and the list helped out a lot...turned out to be a bad
Idle Control Mechanism.  Also, Mr. Chris Somerville went out of his way to
find me a set of doors and then even offered to deliver them to my area,
(for a fee of course), but I got lucky and found a 1981 Regal for sale as
parts and grabbed the doors for a great price and close to home.  My point
is, I would not of been able to do what I have in the past 2 years without
the help of the list.  My car is being painted right now and should be done
in about 1 more week.  Hopefully I can post some pics to someone's web page
to show off my pride and joy...A final thank you to everyone on this list
and their expertise.  Especially to Mr. Chris Somerville..

Shawn


Shawn
1984 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 22:56:15 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: garage space, long

Lou,

I don't think your Olds needs a flack jacket. However, like most things,
with car covers you get what you paid for. There are certain types of
fabrics that are permeable to water vapor and are yet water proof.
Your car will be ok. Just don't sprinkle salt on her.

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 23:09:15 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Battery in Trunk - ideas?

Arnold, W D wrote:

> > Nope...no room in there. The ex-wife's body takes up the whole trunk.

> LOL !!!!!
> You gotta stop man..  I'm crying here...

So where did you hide all the extra restoration parts when you stuck the
ex in there?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 23:09:14 EST
From: DKlauber@aol.com
Subject: Re: garage space, long

May want to check out Hemmings, they advertise for something called the car
jacket.  I think they have a web site, but I already gave all my old Hemmings
away.  David  0CA 30416	
1970 442 W-30 Conv

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 20:28:42 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Balance (Was motor check stand)

Arnold, W D wrote:
> 
> Does the olds HAVE to have the flywheel bolted on for balancing when test
> firing? They are internally balanced, right?
> 
> Good Luck,
> Donny
> 72 442




Yes, the flywheel/flexplate should be attached.  Olds V8's
(at least 64-77 models) are "externally" balanced. 


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 21:52:03 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Valve Covers

Like I said before (and I don't mean to give you crap), use the RTV only.
It is starting to piss me off.  For me, gaskets leak, RTV NEVER.  Carefully
look at the valve cover, and you will see if it is warped.  If in doubt, get
another from junk yard (easy and cheap). Put the RTV on, let is sit for
about 10-15 min., install the valvecover, tighten to the point where common
sense tells you to stop, let it sit for a few hours, start and IT SHOULD NOT
LEAK.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 23:53:04 -0500
From: "Shpud" <shpud@hotmail.com>
Subject: Trade Manuals?

I have an original mechanics manual for a 1955 P_nti_ac which I would like to 
possibly trade for a 1967 Olds manual with information relevant to Delmonts. 
Let me know if you know of anyone who would be able to do a trade such as 
this, or even if you know of anyone who has a '55 P_nti_ac who might be 
interested in purchasing an original manual. Thanks.

Spruce
- ----------------------------------------------------
If you have ICQ my ICQ# is 1206779
If you don't have ICQ you can page me through:
* My Communication Center: http://wwp.mirabilis.com/1206779 (go there and try 
it!)
* Or you can send me e-mail to 1206779@pager.mirabilis.com
- ----------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 21:53:06 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Those Damn Blue Headlights

I think it makes them look fast (to them anyway).

- -----Original Message-----
From: Cutw29@aol.com <Cutw29@aol.com>
To: Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: November 19, 1998 6:36 PM
Subject: Those Damn Blue Headlights


>Just a quick question what's with all the new cars with those annoying blue
>headlights?
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 21:02:11 -0800 (PST)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Those Damn Blue Headlights

I think the blue headlights are the newer halogen bulbs.  They're
really good if you're in the car that has them, but if you're in front
of that car, or coming in the other direction, they are horrible. 
They leave spots in your vision for about 5 minutes.  It really sucks.

Stefan
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
sgadecki@yahoo.com



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 00:04:32 -0500 (EST)
From: zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu
Subject: Re: Those Damn Blue Headlights

On Thu, 19 Nov 1998 Cutw29@aol.com wrote:

> Just a quick question what's with all the new cars with those annoying blue
> headlights?

Well... if you've got those new composite headlights... you can get
special bulbs for your car like these... forget what they are called...
not just tinted or anything... but they are actually a different type of
bulb.  My buddie's got them on his '98 S-10.  I drive it quite a bit...
and some at night... and to be honest... they light the road (especially
in adverse weather) quite a bit better than standard halogens.  I don't
like them on an older car... and you can't get one for anything much older
than 1990 anyways... but I think that they do some good on a newer car.
Going from driving his truck to getting in my '65 Poncho is interesting
though... it's like driving with only parking lights ;-)


In related news... one of the original T-3's in my '65 bit the dust last
night :-(  gives me an excuse to buy a couple halogens I guess.



    |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
   /|\       Clayton Pierce,
  / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
 |  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
 |  |  |     
 |  |  |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
 | / \ |     
 |/   \|     1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
  \   /         (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
   \ /          http://www.442.com/pierce.html
    |        1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass Brougham
		(parts car) (307, 4bbl, TH350, 2.14:1, 90k miles)
	     1980 Rover 3500 SD1
	        (215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/othercars.html
     	     1979 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
		(260 V8, 2bbl, TH350)
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/79cutlass.html
		http://www.geocities.com/Athens/4468/oldsmobile/olds.html
	     1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
		(389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/bonneville.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 23:13:14 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: Valve Covers

At 10:52 PM 11/19/98 , you wrote:
>Like I said before (and I don't mean to give you crap), use the RTV only.
>It is starting to piss me off. 

Well!

 For me, gaskets leak, RTV NEVER.  Carefully
>look at the valve cover, and you will see if it is warped.  If in doubt, get
>another from junk yard (easy and cheap). Put the RTV on, let is sit for
>about 10-15 min., install the valvecover, tighten to the point where common
>sense tells you to stop, let it sit for a few hours, start and IT SHOULD NOT
>LEAK.
>
>Igor Todorovic
>1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
> 

Look, here's the deal...I'm NOT saying that you're full of shit, ok?  I got
that impression from your mail (and yes, I read the part about no crap,
it's OK ;-) ); the only thing is, "If gaskets are unneccessary, then why do
they exist?"  I realize that a person in my position (with leaky valve
covers) is in no position to extoll the virtues of anything, but can you
kind of see where I'm coming from?


- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 21:33:29 -0800
From: "Corey Day" <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Those Damn Blue Headlights

Hey Everyone!

There are several types of new lights out there.  Most of the ones you will
see are simply bulbs that are coated to generate the blue/rainbowish or
yellow glow.  The really cool ones are found on the new Lincoln Mark series,
Lexus Coupes etc.  These lights are a new system called a "High Intensity
Discharge" system.

They can come in several varieties and I am not sure which one is being
employed by the auto manufacturers:

HID Types:
1. Mercury
vapor
2. Metal halide
3. (HPS)
High pressure
sodium
4. (LPS)
Low pressure
sodium

Corey Day
dayc@ix.netcom.com
1970 Cutlass S - 455
www.netcom.com/~dayc/

- -----Original Message-----
From: zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu <zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, November 19, 1998 9:06 PM
Subject: Re: Those Damn Blue Headlights


>
>On Thu, 19 Nov 1998 Cutw29@aol.com wrote:
>
>> Just a quick question what's with all the new cars with those annoying
blue
>> headlights?
>
>Well... if you've got those new composite headlights... you can get
>special bulbs for your car like these... forget what they are called...
>not just tinted or anything... but they are actually a different type of
>bulb.  My buddie's got them on his '98 S-10.  I drive it quite a bit...
>and some at night... and to be honest... they light the road (especially
>in adverse weather) quite a bit better than standard halogens.  I don't
>like them on an older car... and you can't get one for anything much older
>than 1990 anyways... but I think that they do some good on a newer car.
>Going from driving his truck to getting in my '65 Poncho is interesting
>though... it's like driving with only parking lights ;-)
>
>
>In related news... one of the original T-3's in my '65 bit the dust last
>night :-(  gives me an excuse to buy a couple halogens I guess.
>
>
>
>    |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
>   /|\       Clayton Pierce,
>  / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
> |  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
> |  |  |
> |  |  |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
> | / \ |
> |/   \|     1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
>  \   /         (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
>   \ /          http://www.442.com/pierce.html
>    |        1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass Brougham
> (parts car) (307, 4bbl, TH350, 2.14:1, 90k miles)
>      1980 Rover 3500 SD1
>         (215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
> http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/othercars.html
>          1979 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
> (260 V8, 2bbl, TH350)
> http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/79cutlass.html
> http://www.geocities.com/Athens/4468/oldsmobile/olds.html
>      1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
> (389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"
> http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/bonneville.html
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 19 Nov 1998 23:14:59 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Valve Covers

Gasktets are not unecessary.  I would never only use RTV on the oil pan or
waterpump, etc.  However, for valvecover I belive that silicon is better.
It is because it is not really easy to line up the gaskets and tighten okay.
I know from experince.  I do everything good, am convinced that the gasket
is okay, and it leaks.  Later, when I remove the valvecover, I see the
problem.  Remember that the head contact material on the head is really thin
(narrow metal area that the gaskets contacts).  So when you put your wide
gasket on and tighten, it has tendency to fold or slip, casusing leak.
Silicon on the other hand molds itself around the head contact material and
valvecover, causing a good seal.  I don't think that RTV is as long lasting
as some good gaskets, but I had them go for more then 7 years okay (my dad
put it on).  That is good for me, even if I have to redo it after.  Here is
a simple test: since you had two gasket trials so far (even though you used
RTV, folding gasket can open a hole) and both failed, use the remaining RTV
(plenty but not too much) and try with it only.  If it leaks, I admit to
being an ass and then you can go on trying to solve the problem.  Unless it
is something other then gasket leak, it should work.  I am not trying to be
an asshole.  I don't have much experince with mechanical crap (an only 20
yrs. old) but I have changed a few valvecover gaskets to RTV and they all
worked good.  In the worst case, you will be out 2 hours and the rest of
your RTV.


>Look, here's the deal...I'm NOT saying that you're full of shit, ok?  I got
>that impression from your mail (and yes, I read the part about no crap,
>it's OK ;-) ); the only thing is, "If gaskets are unneccessary, then why do
>they exist?"  I realize that a person in my position (with leaky valve
>covers) is in no position to extoll the virtues of anything, but can you
>kind of see where I'm coming from?
>
>
>-------------------------------------------------------------
> Brian Ammons Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
> MIS Major - UT Austin b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
> 2903 Breeze Terrace http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
> Austin, TX 78722 Home : (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
> 1984 Oldsmobile (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
> Delta 88 Pager: (512) 483-8056
>   4-door (713) 318-5938
>-------------------------------------------------------------
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 02:15:32 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Valve Covers

In a message dated 11/19/98 6:04:59 PM Pacific Standard Time,
b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu writes:

<< Dammit, in too much of a hurry, and sent that last too quick...
 
 Can you tell me a REAL reason why the RTV should go on the bare valve cover
 ONLY?  Once you put the gasket on the cover, does it HURT to make the RTV
 "look nice", which translates to "works well"?  Or does the RTV _interfere_
 with the gasket mating to the head surface?
  >>

     Doesn't look like this one has been answered : ) Here it is from
experience: Valve covers come off, and are easily cleaned of rtv when the time
comes..try cleaning the rear of the head surface on the passenger side of
silicone sometimes : )  Also, thats why i'll never use that hardening stuff
again (Indian Head gasket shellac(?) ) It's just too hard to clean off. 
      I did my last set with just RTV (Black or Orange..no reason for
preference, but I think maybe they are designed for higher heat)  on the valve
cover, and a gasket, and haven't had any problems. You could try using the
"spreaders" (usually chrome, yuck) that go under the valve cover bolts, to
spread out the torque over more of the valve cover, which lessens the chance
of splitting the gasket. Most any auto  store has them. Bent covers COULD be a
possibility, but I think more often than not, it's the area UNDER the bolt
that is dimpled from tightening. Good luck, Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 02:16:27 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: SB rear main seal

In a message dated 11/19/98 6:04:53 PM Pacific Standard Time, Mr57olds@aol.com
writes:

<< Maybe they cut the flange off the crank.  Ought to make mounting the
flywheel
 or flex plate interesting.  
 Mr57olds >>

     Supposedly there is NO modification that has to be done to
anything...thats what I find hard to believe.  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 01:30:36 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: POR-15 : Pleucid

Has anyone out there used the new POR-15 product called pleucid on chrome
bumpers? I was looking to have my 72 Olds bumpers painted with this stuff.
My questions are is if it leaves streaks or bubbles if painted with a foam
brush? How does it look? Is it comparable to a good chrome buffing job, or
is it better?

Also how about chrome moldings, chrome doorhandles,etc....


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 02:28:05 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: motor check stand

In a message dated 11/19/98 3:27:28 PM Pacific Standard Time, bryceman@442.com
writes:

<< I think you would want to bolt up some kind of exhaust, even open headers.
 I have heard that running an engine with out some sort of exhaust (i.e.
 open heads) can cause valve warpage. >>

      I have heard the same thing, but no plausible explanation as to WHY this
would happen. Have driven short distances this way, and no problems, at least
immediate, when there was no other choice. Anyone know exactly why? Too rapid
cooling of the valves??
                                                                              
Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 02:33:58 EST
From: CCRR12@aol.com
Subject: Re: Valve Covers

Brian & Igor,

Boys! Boys!  Get a grip!

Flaming each other with cheap language on the list is not what we all tune in
for. But what really takes the cake is that, it is over leaky valve covers. I
can't imagine what you will say when it is a real problem!

Just some notes to this dilemma:

25 years ago the manufacturers tried to sell the auto service industry on the
idea that RTV, Make-a-Gasket, etc., was the answer to speeding up the process
of services engines. As a line mechanic at the time it made sense. It was
faster and cheaper meaning you could save money.
However, most guys who are particular about their own engines will take the
time and expense of using the proper gasket. They work great when installed
properly.
This is especially true on an engine that you would pull the covers frequently
to adjust the valvetrain (I know, not most Olds).  

1.	Get the valve covers clean and straight as mentioned earlier.
2.	Apply cork gaskets to valve covers using 'gorilla snot'.
3.	Lay face down on work bench overnight.
4.	Check squareness again before installation.
5. 	Install without adding anything to face of gasket.
6.	Tighten bolts with grip strength only using nut driver.
7. 	Check for leaks and tightness after a few hours on engine.

If you still have leaks go back to #1. If valve covers are warped beyond
repair, replace. Anything else is a temporary solution.

Brian, I commend you on the use of yellow spray paint. Very smart!

Randy in Oklahoma
57 88 J2

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 01:45:47 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Mondello:Prices!?

Well no new revelation here, but we all know(those who have bought parts)
that Mondello prices are high. But there is nobody else out there who sells
CORRECT Oldsmobile engine parts that FIT and WORK. I know there is Dick
Miller, but he tends to be high priced also. For example, Chevy small and
big block high performance bearings are available in the dozens. For Olds,
there is only 2 or 3 manufacturers. Look in your Jegs and Summit catalogs
and good luck trying to find Olds engine parts. They have some but very
few. I've heard stories of Comp Cams parts not working correctly in the
valvetrain. 

I would rather pay a little more and get something that has been tested and
known to work. How many people on this list alone have done their 455
cylinder heads at some "Chevy & Ford" shop and had problems with the heads
not working as they should. I know of a case where a shop "ported" a  pair
of "C" heads and the heads FLOWED WORSE THAN A STOCK UNTOUCHED HEAD.

Sure a $180.00 pair of Vandervill rod & main bearings that have been
cryogenically frozen is big bucks but a pair of Federal Mogul Chevy main
bearings are $46.00 plus $54.00 for the rod bearings, for a total of
$100.00. They are still $80.00 cheaper but from what I've heard and read,
the cryogenic bearings are still better. If you had those bearings
cryogenically done then the price would be around $180.00 also.


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 01:01:25 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Valve Covers

>>It is starting to piss me off.

And by the way, I did not mean that you or your use of gaskets is pissing me
off, but rather the oil leak.  It is one of those tedius, simple yet complex
problems.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 02:06:15 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Olds 455 oiling system

I have heard that a "stock" Olds 455 with the 4 quart pan can suck the pan
dry if you keep the motor in the upper RPM range for awhile. They were fine
if you drove around normally, but if guys raced them on the street, the
bearings would get oil starved at times. This was mostly due to the fact
that the oil gallery holes were too big and the top end would get too much
oil. I know Mondello states the same and some people say that is not true
but I talked to an older gentlemen who worked as a mechanic for Olds in the
late 60's and mid 70's. He stated that this is true. The Olds 455 would
just get too much oil in the top end and the bottom end would not get
enough. He stated also that people spun main bearings on those blocks
because they would race them and the combination of tight clearances ".0005
- - .0021 and lack of oil would spin the main. Most of us rebuilt our 455
motors went more towards the .0015 - .0025" main bearing clearance range.
If you rebuilt a 455 motor and had .0005" main bearing clearance I bet you
have a good probability of spinning a bearing, especially if you race the
car. 

Even with main gallery restrictors in #2, #3 and #4 main galleries,
restricted cam bearings and restricted pushrods, that you still have 25%
too much oil going to the top end. A 7 quart pan, I believe is a MUST when
going for a high performance rebuild that will put out more power than a
factory motor. 

WHAT DO YOU THINK? I believe this is true, time tested and factual data.
Some may say it's BS. Let's here what you have to say......  

P.S. : My 94 Olds with the 3.4L V6 has a 5 quart oil pan. Now it doesn't
take a genius to figure out that  a 7.5L V8 motor (that's more than twice
the size of a 3.4) with a 4 quart pan is "underfed".......
Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 02:43:18 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: intersting spotting...

ASC was definitely responsible for the one Toro XSR (power T top)prototype
and the production XS version (wrap aroud back glass and moon roof).
Hess & Eisenhardt did the Cierra convertibles I have seen, as well as the
1984-'85 Toronado Caliente.  In the late '70s they also converted a number
of Coupe De Villes and a few 98s and Electras into convertibles.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 03:12:38 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds 455 oiling system

In a message dated 11/20/98 12:03:13 AM Pacific Standard Time,
PETTRIX@prodigy.net writes:

<< They were fine
 if you drove around normally, but if guys raced them on the street, the
 bearings would get oil starved at times. This was mostly due to the fact
 that the oil gallery holes were too big and the top end would get too much
 oil.  >>

     I was also told the same about using high volume oil pumps, in ANY
vehicle with a small oil pan..there just isn't enough oil to keep up at high
rpm. The FAQ addresses the oiling problem (especially the heads drainback)  a
little if I remember correctly, but how about the Small Blocks too? Same basic
principles right? Any pretty easy (IE cheap) solution that would help or solve
this problem? How about the diesel radiator coolers? Are they in the oiling
system in a place that would help in high RPM situations, since they add a bit
( I know probably not much) of oil too? What exactly is considered high RPM
for these statements? 5000? 6000? I know, more questions, but I'm trying to
learn, and keep my engine oiled too : )   Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 04:13:16 -0600 (CST)
From: blue442@webtv.net
Subject: Re: Olds 455 oiling system

So happy to see other list members interested in 455 oiling!  I have
heard that oil can pool in the heads, hence the need for drainback hose
installation.  I also see the need for extra fluid capacity in the pan.
However< one issue I would love to see addressed (Joe?) is air pockeyts
forming in the oil galleys.  A very intelligent mechanic ad racer I
know, who just happened to work at an Olds dealer in the late 60's to
ealy '70's said the ral problem was oil gathering in the galleys to the
point that when you stand on it, the front main bearings go away.  He
said the Olds mandated fix was drilling bleeder holes in the plugs
behind the cam sprocket.  He also recomended shimming the oil pun=mp
bypass spring, rather he said a high pressure pump

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1612
*********************************

