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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1659


oldsmobile-digest      Friday, December 11 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1659



Re: Conv top patches
Oldmobile and Carbs: Interesting Trivia
Re: wing/spoiler/make it look better - for convertibles?
Re: bad day/hubs,studs and lug nuts
Production number questions, '68 & '69 442 conv.
77 Sheetmetal needed
WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST
RE: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs
RE: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs
Re: Production number questions, '68 & '69 442 conv.
RE: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST
Brake distribution block
RE: Production number questions, '68 & '69 442 conv.
Re: 5.0 Mustang Vs. 455
Tire Recommendation
RE: Conv top patches
Re: Lic Plate Resto help
Re: 5.0 Mustang Vs. 455
Secondary metering rods?
Cars for sale in Atlanta
Re: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST
Re: Conv top patches
Re: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs
Re: Secondary metering rods?
Re: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs
Q4 Stereo buffs or whatever
RE:Star Fire /1962/ Brushed Aluminum Trim
Re: wing/spoiler/make it look better - for convertibles?
Re: Star Fire /1962/ Brushed Aluminum Trim
Re: More Edelbrock Stuff
Re: 68 taillight styles.
Dino's wing/spoiler for $150
Re: Star Fire /1962/ Brushed Aluminum Trim
Re: Wanted! a set of Batten Heads
Re: Wanted! a set of Batten Heads
Re: welding exhaust divider/milling exhausts
Re: 68 12 bolt
Re: EGR and 455s
New Olds Video on 442.com
Re: New Olds Video on 442.com
Re: Parts wanted
Owners Manual
Re: Oldsmobile in the movies. WW and the Dixie Dance Kings?
Re: New Olds Video on 442.com
Re: EGR and 455s
ADMIN: Re: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs
parts car, session 4
'85 Cutlass Electrical Problem
Re: Cars for sale in Atlanta
Re: How sad...(was counrty roads)
NOS Olds 350
Good review for listmembers
Re: NOS Olds 350
Re: bad day/hubs,studs and lug nuts
RE: bad day/hubs,studs and lug nuts
looking for bench seat : non olds
Re: NOS Olds 350
RE: Brake distribution block
RE: Heater controls
Re: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST
Re: Heater controls
Re: bad day/hubs,studs and lug nuts
Re: Subject: Re: Alternator still high
Re: Heater controls
69S
Re: Olds stereo
Re: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST
double posting
Re: Dino's wing/spoiler for $150
Re: NOS Olds 350/questions or opinions?
Re: 69S
Re: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST
Re: welding exhaust divider/milling exhausts
70  supreme parts car

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 21:23:30 -0500
From: Bob Dale <bctad5@toolcity.net>
Subject: Re: Conv top patches

Lou Biggs wrote:

> To all,
> Repaired a conv. top with some extra material (matched) I got from
> upholstery shop, about 5" x 5", put it on with 3m trim cement, looked
> like
> heck, didn't fall off, carried it about a year, rain and snow, put on
> a new
> top later. If your broke it helps, doesn't rain on you.
> Lou Biggs
> lbiggs@intertek.net
> ----------
> > From: <GJC> CC-IROC-SS <gjcouse@francomm.com>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: RE: Conv top patches
> > Date: Thursday, December 10, 1998 8:06 PM
>
> > Ah Bob, I think the original post was about a convertible top
> >
> > -----Regards,
> >
> > Gary J. Couse
> > Couse Custom

   Dah, can`t spell or read.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 21:13:10 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Oldmobile and Carbs: Interesting Trivia

All this talk of Holley and Q-Jet reminds me of a few things I read
recently.  While none has any bearing on carburetor quality, it lightens
up the whole topic.

- --Rochester was not founded as a carburetor company.  It was originally
Rochester Coil Co.(named for Rochester, New York), founded 1908 by
Edward and Joseph Halblieb.  It made electrical coils and repaired
electrical motors.  At one time it changed its name to the North East
Electrical Company.  It underwent many other name changes. By 1929, it
was wholly owned by General Motors and eventually carburetors became its
specialty.  The Q-Jet was introduced in 1965.

- --- The Q-Jet is interesting in that, in theory, the secondaries work
almost like a variable venturi carburetor.

- --  The Holley brothers, George and Earl, originally made motorcycles
and by 1897 built a three-wheeled car.  Between 1903 and 1906, they sold
more than 600 four-wheeled cars, called the Motorette. The Holley Motor
Company, as it was called, began making carburetors in 1903.  By 1907
its Model G carburetor was standard on the Model T.  It was also used on
Pierce-Arrow, Winton, OLDSMOBILE  (uhh, that's the Olds content part),
and Buick.

- ---The popular 4150/4160 models were introduced in 1957 and various
versions of them have been used on Chevrolet, Ford, and Chrysler.

- -- Source: "How to Tune and Modify: Carburetor Performance, " By Forbes
Aird and Malcom Elston,  Motorbooks International, 1997.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 22:18:56 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: wing/spoiler/make it look better - for convertibles?

Don't know, but I've got one on my '69 - I really like the looks of it!
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a 'glide :-(
'75 Supreme - project car....
'82 Supreme - SB, 700R4, 3.73's - Grin!
'86 Supreme - V-8 - daily driver...

Norm Baier wrote:

> Was a wing ever available from the factory for convertibles?
>
> ----Original Message Follows----
> Date:   Thu, 10 Dec 1998 00:30:20 -0500
> From:   "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
> To:     oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: wing/spoiler/make it look better
> Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
> > To me, it's on mainly for looks instead of adding more rear
>
> downforce.  I
> > pound the pavement 1/8 mile at a time and the car never
>
> sees 100+ mph.
> >
> > Was the 'rear wing' really designed to make more downforce
>
> or just more curb
> > appeal ?
>
> Both. The design is such that an actual downforce is obtained
>
> the faster
> you go.  How much it really adds to holding the tires on the
>
> road, well,
> doubtful if enough!!!  If you notice the shape, the top is rather
>
> flat,
> and the bottom is curved. Like an upside down airplane wing.
>
> So you get
> "negative" lift, or a downward force at high speeds.
>
> Of course, you may need to be going 130+ to realize its
>
> benefits...  :)
>
> But to answer the question about addding a wing to the 69, the
>
> trunklid
> mounting area for the wing is the exact same locations as the
>
> 70-72
> wing.  70-72 assembly manual has drilling and mounting data.
>
> But if
> it's a convertible, you'll need to modify it slightly to make it fit
> right.  For that matter, adding it to a 68 would be a piece of
>
> cake too.
>
> Mike Rothe
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 22:16:38 EST
From: OLDS44272@aol.com
Subject: Re: bad day/hubs,studs and lug nuts

In a message dated 98-12-10 19:11:57 EST, you write:

<< can i get the hubs as
 aftermarket or r they hard to get ahold of  >>
        

         If your car has disk brakes, the studs would come part of a new
rotor. But i would assume by the tone of your post, you must have front drum
brakes. ( Both my 72's had disk brakes on the front) If they are drums, i
would think the hubs should be available through Napa or you could try some
places from 442. com or Super cars Unlimited, Not sure of the cost of new
hubs, or what other cars would interchange if you had to go to a salvage
yard....SCOTT.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 22:50:50 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Production number questions, '68 & '69 442 conv.

Looked at the FAQ but probably didn't look in the right place and couldn't
find it. I apologize for wasting BW in advance.

Just wondering, for both '68 & '69, how many 442 W-30 convertibles and how
many 442 4 speed convertibles were made.

TIA.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 22:30:53 EST
From: SHELTERMEN@aol.com
Subject: 77 Sheetmetal needed

Still looking for sheetmetal for a '77 Cutlass.  Some rust is ok seeing as
it's going on a race car.  Would prefer it be in NJ area as shipping might
make it cost prohibitive.
Thanks,
Tim
'68 Delmont
'77 Cutlass street stock

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 20:51:52 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST

Lately there does not seem to be as much mail as before.  I remember a year
back I would get swamped with mail daily.  Now it seems less.  Hmm, anybody
else.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 22:59:57 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs

- -----Original Message-----

Thank you I agree, I'm not too impressed with the features or the looks but
he
insists that it is a top-o-the line unit and really wanted to use (I told
him
to go back and get the cd's) lol ....Personally I would put a factory SAAB
unit up against it any day!

Ryan

Which would be a Blaupunkt right?  Well my Alpine will kick that stereo's
rear if it would ever make it back from the repair shop. 8^]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 23:01:59 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs

- -----Original Message-----

and another thing Fu-Q and the Police.


Ryan


suck my sack

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 23:21:15 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Production number questions, '68 & '69 442 conv.

        Here's the breakdowns

68 442 W30 Conv       127 (4 spds.)       43 (auto)
69 442 W30 Conv     1161 (4 spds.)   3047 (auto)


Jim Chermack


At 10:50 PM 12/10/98 , you wrote:
>Looked at the FAQ but probably didn't look in the right place and couldn't
>find it. I apologize for wasting BW in advance.
>
>Just wondering, for both '68 & '69, how many 442 W-30 convertibles and how
>many 442 4 speed convertibles were made.
>
>TIA.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 23:23:16 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST

Igor man, it's the season and the g-body list.  The g-body list is not
nearly as large as this list, but it took a decent chunk out here. Plus,
it's winter time man...

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Igor T. '81 DRB 455
Sent: Thursday, December 10, 1998 10:52 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST


Lately there does not seem to be as much mail as before.  I remember a year
back I would get swamped with mail daily.  Now it seems less.  Hmm, anybody
else.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 23:20:16 EST
From: Jon442@aol.com
Subject: Brake distribution block

I'm converting my '72 Supreme from drum to discs. I got my new brake lines and
the fittings are not lining up right... they are not the right size in some
cases. Is there a difference in the brake distribution block between a drum
and disc brake car? 

Jon

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 23:25:59 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: Production number questions, '68 & '69 442 conv.

The YEAR ONE catalogue has the production numbers for 64-72 listed on one of
the front pages of their catalog.

For your Q, here's what the book says on the W-30 convertible:

68....    170 made
69....    121 made



> ----------
> From: 	C. Casteel[SMTP:earthsci@pop.usit.net]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Thursday, December 10, 1998 10:50 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Production number questions, '68 & '69 442 conv.
> 
> Looked at the FAQ but probably didn't look in the right place and couldn't
> find it. I apologize for wasting BW in advance.
> 
> Just wondering, for both '68 & '69, how many 442 W-30 convertibles and how
> many 442 4 speed convertibles were made.
> 
> TIA.
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 20:30:06 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 5.0 Mustang Vs. 455

With a good driver they are faster than that. A stock 93 Z28 run 14.0 
sec 1/4's, I don't have the specs in front of me but a 95 is faster and 
a 98 is quite a bit faster than that. My .02


>Those things aren't that bad either. I had a friend with a 95 Z and his
>best was 14.24 before he put it into a telephone pole. Soon as I found
>out he was alive, I was pissed at him for wrecking a beautiful car.
>
>-- 
>***********
>Matt Cremean
>mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
>***************************
>1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 V-8 4 bbl)
>1975 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (250 I-6 1 bbl)
>1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (350 V-8 2 bbl)
>1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4 bbl)
>*******************************************
>http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
>*******************************************


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 19:53:18 -0600
From: <barbw@uswest.net>
Subject: Tire Recommendation

Thanks to all of you who gave me some feedback re tires with RWL.  Your
comments are appreciated.

Barb
'76 Cutlass Salon

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 22:16:46 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Conv top patches

Depending on how hot the sun is at your location, and the shape of the rip,
could probably sew it than flow some candle wax on to the seam

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
ICQ# 5209322
mailto:gjcouse@CC-IROC-SS.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
Send Project Questions To:
mailto:info@CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit < G.J.C > at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 22:11:48 -0500
From: Joe & Toni Artwell <tjf26@gte.net>
Subject: Re: Lic Plate Resto help

Thanks all for the idea's!
	Joe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 23:35:48 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: 5.0 Mustang Vs. 455

Yeah, the new T/A's are just as fast, maybe even a few 10's quicker due to
less weight.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 20:54:44 -0800
From: "Mike Jones" <mike@gleep.com>
Subject: Secondary metering rods?

	Went to the Pick-your-part today, and picked up some secondary metering
rods and metering rod hangers..  I plan to finish up a re-build on a carb
that I have had torn apart for a while, and I wanna super-tune it for my
'78 Delta 88 (350/TH350, single 2.5" exhaust, edelbrock intake).  Then I
will tear apart the orig. Q-jet.  
 
Metering rods and rod hangers that I picked up are as follows..
 
RODS..  BH (2), CH, CT, CV, DN, DR

HANGERS...  F, I (2), J, K, L, M, O, S.
 
On my unfinished carb, the hanger in use is a J hanger.  This carb came off
a '78 Olds 350 in a pontiac wagon (same carb number, so I'm good).  I have
gone through the FAQ section about carbs, but have never super-tuned one
before.
 
I also need help adjusting the secondary air valve on the Q-jet on the car
currently.  The Spring is either worn out, mis-adjusted, or gunked up
enough to not want to return once when opened.  This leads to a NASTY bog
when going at WOT from around 20 mph (kicking it into 1st).  I know the
engine has some miles on it (102k) and want to do a timing chain and a RV
cam while I am at it but I would need something to drive while said work
goes on, and unfortunately, the '78 is my only car. 
 
Mike Jones
'78 Delta (350/Th350, 102k)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 23:57:57 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: Cars for sale in Atlanta

Since we're hitting on the subject of cars seen for sale, Here's what I
found in the ATLANTA ADVERTISER. 

'69 olds cutlass, 350, restorable, $2500  770-222-9968 Bobby
'69 supreme convt, 350, auto, 95% restored $8000 770-962-4985
'64 jetstar, ps, pb, ac, 330, auto, restored, $4000 770-971-9218
'67 delmont 88 convt, auto, 425, 100% restored, $8400 678-377-7933
'67 442 holiday, 400, ac, ps, knocking, restorable, $3500 404-633-0720
'69 cutlass convt, 350, new top, $3000 404-753-3430
'71 supreme W-31, great shape, $3800 770-439-1769 
'69 Cutlass S, new paint, 425, 12 bolt 'C', MSD, 10" conv, edel intake, 
      runs 12.6 et, $2500 ( What a deal !!! ) 770-963-7775
'84 H/O, 307, immaculate, $10,000 770-474-8791 Gene 
'72 H/O, 455, 100% orig, $10,000 770-747-8791 Gene


Well, that's about it. I saved some of you $1 I guess.
Donny A
 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 00:00:32 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST

"Igor T. '81 DRB 455" wrote:

> Lately there does not seem to be as much mail as before.  I remember a year
> back I would get swamped with mail daily.  Now it seems less.  Hmm, anybody
> else.

Don't know about you dude but 50 or so a day in my mail box is plenty.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 23:54:24 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Conv top patches

>Depending on how hot the sun is at your location, and the shape of >the
rip, could probably sew it than flow some candle wax on to the >seam


Just a thought...........instead of candle wax, go to a camping supply store
and buy a tube of the sealer they use on nylon tents to waterproof the
seams. It'll probably last longer than the wax.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 00:02:05 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs

Ray Costanzo wrote:

> -----Original Message-----
>
> and another thing Fu-Q and the Police.
>
> Ryan
>
> suck my sack

Ahhhh.......thats the stuff....
get a life guys

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 00:07:34 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Secondary metering rods?

Mike Jones wrote:

>         Went to the Pick-your-part today, and picked up some secondary 
metering
> rods and metering rod hangers..  I plan to finish up a re-build on a carb
> that I have had torn apart for a while, and I wanna super-tune it for my
> '78 Delta 88 (350/TH350, single 2.5" exhaust, edelbrock intake).  Then I
> will tear apart the orig. Q-jet.
>
> Metering rods and rod hangers that I picked up are as follows..
>
> RODS..  BH (2), CH, CT, CV, DN, DR
>
> HANGERS...  F, I (2), J, K, L, M, O, S.
>
> On my unfinished carb, the hanger in use is a J hanger.  This carb came off
> a '78 Olds 350 in a pontiac wagon (same carb number, so I'm good).  I have
> gone through the FAQ section about carbs, but have never super-tuned one
> before.
>
> I also need help adjusting the secondary air valve on the Q-jet on the car
> currently.  The Spring is either worn out, mis-adjusted, or gunked up
> enough to not want to return once when opened.  This leads to a NASTY bog
> when going at WOT from around 20 mph (kicking it into 1st).  I know the
> engine has some miles on it (102k) and want to do a timing chain and a RV
> cam while I am at it but I would need something to drive while said work
> goes on, and unfortunately, the '78 is my only car.
>
> Mike Jones
> '78 Delta (350/Th350, 102k)

Mike,
Didja check all your vacuum lines? My 75 Delta did the same thing 'till I 
installed
new lines.  Timing chain could do that also. It bogs till it catches up with
itself.

my $.02
Mark Hahn
75 Delta 88 Royale Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 00:05:57 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs

ryan, get a life, we oldsmobile people dont like pighating stealers (as in he
takes stuff)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 00:15:44 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: Q4 Stereo buffs or whatever

Before anyone has to scold us, I suggest we all end this thread!  I
apologize for getting involved.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 21:17:08 -0800
From: michael r m <miglenda@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: RE:Star Fire /1962/ Brushed Aluminum Trim

Hi!   Would anyone know, or have any info where one could purchase new,
after market,
or in excellent condition the Large Brushed Aluminum Side Trim for a
1962 Star Fire? Would be interested in any of the pieces. Preferably the
left door piece.
They are made up of  three pieces per side. Fender/door/ & rear Quarter
panel. I understand that some fellow did manufacture 10 or so sets about
3-4 yrs. ago and was located somewhere on the east coast??? {so I was
told} Would very much appreciate what info you may have. Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 23:40:59 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: wing/spoiler/make it look better - for convertibles?

I personally think that the wing looks good on 70-72 convertibles. It gives
the car that flare in the back end. 
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Norm Baier <nbaier@hotmail.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: wing/spoiler/make it look better - for convertibles?
> Date: Thursday, December 10, 1998 11:08 AM
> 
> Thanks Joe and Kyle,
> 
> That's what I had thought... that the wing was not available as a 
> factory option. I also 
> agree that the rake of a wing intended for a coupe, mounted on a 
> convertible decklid, 
> 
> might not look right due to the rake. Might a 69 HO wing (repro in this 
> case) be an 
> 
> alternative on say, a 72 convert? Or, a wing originally intended for a 
> GTO convert?
> 
> Norm Baier
> 
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From:	Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Date:	Thu, 10 Dec 1998 10:17:51 -0500
> Subject: Re: wing/spoiler/make it look better - for convertibles?
> Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> 
> Was a wing ever available from the factory for convertibles?
> _______
> 
> No (except on the 69 H/O converts), but many were dealer installed.
> 
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
> 
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 69 442
> 70 W-30
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 00:33:08 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: Star Fire /1962/ Brushed Aluminum Trim

email hurstoldz@aol.com, he would know

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 20:03:47 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: More Edelbrock Stuff

You are lucky, Dallas is very cheap compared to what I have seen.

><<  First, expect
> to pay close to $500 just to get a stock valve job.  Add the cost of
> hardened seats, stainless valves, good springs, etc.  >>
>
>
>....HELL! In Dallas the going rate for a assembled longblock 455 is 
$700.
>Where are you finding prices like these($500)?
>
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 21:36:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Larry <kajrav@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: 68 taillight styles.

George,

     The Cutlass S and 442 had the two rings and the Cutlass Supreme
had the one ring.

                                                  Larry




- ---George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu> wrote:
>
> 
> Hi Listers, 
> 
> what kind of taillights did the 68 cutlass s have? I am having two 
> different kinds of taillights. One with a chrome ring around the lens 
>            _____                                                _____
> like this [_____] and one without chrome more shaped like this
[__|__].
> The second one has more of an internal structure to the plastic.
> 
> I would like to have identical taillights. Someone offered me one
with 
> the chrome. Would that be an original setup?
> 
> Regards, George
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> '68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
> http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 00:46:09 EST
From: Socalolds@aol.com
Subject: Dino's wing/spoiler for $150

Dino,
I have new 3 piece spoilers which are perfect for $150. You won't be
disappointed.
Dennis
209-322-8441

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 00:49:25 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: Star Fire /1962/ Brushed Aluminum Trim

Hey,



That guy who use to make the 62 Starfire aluminum trim was from Canada.  He
and his son were producing them for $1200. a set.    But  they had a big fight
and the father destroyed the dies.

Now.............

Mike Fusick from East Windsor , Ct.   has been in the process or making
reproduction panels.  The first run were not good,  so he is SUPPOSED to be
retooling them.  He will be selling them in sets only @ $3000.            


This is what I was told by people from Fusick this past July.


Call him at (860) 623-1589.

Vinny
62 Starfire
68 Hurst/Olds

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 01:07:12 EST
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Wanted! a set of Batten Heads

In a message dated 98-12-10 08:25:13 EST, you write:

<< Yep, posted on the 7th and their iron too!  Guy wants $1500 though.
 Are they really worth that much?
  >>
Oh yes, they are definetly worth that much.  The horsepower and torque with a
set of these babies all prepped with big valves and ported and polish put out
high numbers that a port and polish C head looks like a J

W MACHINES

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 01:10:05 EST
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Wanted! a set of Batten Heads

In a message dated 98-12-10 10:10:28 EST, you write:

<< Check out Bryceman's classified page at 442.com. Exactly what you seek is
for
 sale there now. The price may disappoint you.
 Peter
 
  >>
Thanks Bob, Peter and Mark,  the heads will be sold if they are available.
The price is right

W MACHINES

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 01:17:08 EST
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: welding exhaust divider/milling exhausts

In a message dated 98-12-10 11:00:43 EST, you write:

<< Now that I've got my 425 apart and have the B-castings on my
 workbench, I want to either weld the center divider or have it milled
 flush.  I believe Ken Snyder made reference to Dave Smith Engineering
 suggesting milling be done.  Several people on the list have made
 postings on welding in the past.
 
 For those of you who have had the exhausts welded or done it yourself,
 what were the costs and/or how hard was it to do yourself?  I have
 access to oxy/acet. and have welded-up an exhaust bowl on a 302 head in
 the past(it held), but that was relatively small.
 
 For those who believe in milling, are w taking removing material
 perpendicular to the normal of the head-exhaust manifold surface, or at
 an angle to reduce the exhaust port bend?  In eiher event, how much epth
 of cut are we talking? Just enough to remove the gap or more?  Any
 modifications to the header bolt holes on the heads neciessary?  I know
 the header flanges must be modified.
 
 
 Any input from those who have walk here before would be much
 appreciated.  I plan to drop the 425 in my '65 442 this spring, so I'll
 either do or have the work done betwen January and March.
  >>
I suggest welding the center port.  I used weldtech 389 welding rod.  It is
made for cast iron that needs machining.  I used 5/32 rod and welded it past
the flange surface.  Then I took it to the machine shop and had the flange
milled to clean up the surface.  They took off maybe .003 off the flange.

If you took the heads to a welding shop.  They would probably charge 40 bucks.
The 40 dollars is well worth the horsepower.  I have had friends that have had
the center port brazen also.  I am against it since two fellas have had there
heads crack.  It was probably caused by applying too much heat in one area.

W MACHINES

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 22:24:51 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: 68 12 bolt

Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:
> 
> A question for the list:  What are the differences between the 8.5"
> diameter ring gear used in the 67-70 Type O axles and the 8.5" diameter
> ring gear used in the 71-up "corporate" 10 bolt axles?  It sure would be
> sweet if there were a way to adapt the corporate stuff to the Type O.  Greg
> R?
> 



Joe,
Unfortunately, very little will interchange
between the two series.  In order to attempt
a retrofit, the following examples would need
to be addressed:  The inside diameter
of the 71-up 10 bolt's ring gear is smaller
than the 67-70 (12 bolt cover) O axles ring gear.  
And will not fit over the carrier.  The outer 
(or front) pinion bearings are also different.    
The 71-72 units also use a longer pinion gear
than the earlier models do.
The 71-72 axle shafts resemble the 70 in that 
they both use the same bearing/seal design and 
are both 28 spline.  However, the splines on 
71-72 shafts are larger by only a few thousandths.
So you would have to use the 71-72 axle shafts  
because the 69-70 side gears will not fit the 71-72
carrier.  And because of the different axle 
bearing/seal design of the 67-69 models, this 
would limit you to only being able to use a 
1970 housing.  There are probably some other
areas that would create further obstacles,
but an intriguing thought none the less. 
Further investigation is necessary........

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Web site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 01:46:50 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: EGR and 455s

Igor,

EGR came out in '73.  If the cars you saw were actually '72 models, they did
not have the original engines.

Regards,
Fred
>I have seen a few '72 big cars (88/98) on the junk yards with a 455s and
all
>had EGR.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 02:13:31 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: New Olds Video on 442.com

I'm 14.8megs into this download, it better be good, thats all I'm saying. The
demolition man 442 parts quicktime video, its freakin' huge
Kelly
1966 Cutlass
www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 02:25:30 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: New Olds Video on 442.com

Its good, everyone download it

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 02:31:51 EST
From: Joeytada@aol.com
Subject: Re: Parts wanted

I think they are the same as Cutlass Salon griles.

Keith

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 01:41:13 -0600
From: Mark <greenmm@earthlink.net>
Subject: Owners Manual

Thanks to everyone on finding my 1975 Olds Delta 88 Manual.

Appreciate all the help.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 02:55:14 EST
From: CCRR12@aol.com
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile in the movies. WW and the Dixie Dance Kings?

Charles,
W.W. & the Dixie Dance Kings:

I went to see this movie in 1975 with a friend in his 1955 Olds, just before I
got my 57 Olds. Of course we thought it was great. Art Carney, the lawman,
only wanted another 55 to lure out Burt's character from hiding.
I don't know what to believe is actually true about that special 55 model. I
saw a photo in a mag recently of a car that they claimed was used in making
the movie.
The story of the car in the movie was that is was the "Golden Anniversary
Rocket"
Special Edition. It was gold and black 4-door hardtop, with a slimmed down
front bumper. 
You are correct, the movie is no longer available on video. 

Randy in Okla
57 88 J2

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 03:04:24 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: New Olds Video on 442.com

Gutlass66@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Its good, everyone download it

A lot of us bought it last year and have been enjoying it for quite some
time.  Just the pix alone are worth the 20.  A lot of good looking
vehicles....

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 21:36:20 -0500
From: mikemacneir@juno.com (mike j macneir)
Subject: Re: EGR and 455s

>>I have seen a few '72 big cars (88/98) on the junk yards with a 455s
and all had EGR.  The one I pulled my 455 from had no-EGR, but the motor
looks like it has not been touched.  Just wondering if there was a
non-EGR option on the '72.  Also, if this is not a '72, could it be a
'71.   In that case, what could be the difference in power.  The car was
a 98 Regency (tow package I think).  Anyway, it makes my '81 Regency look
like a Civic in size.<<

i believe that only california cars had egr's in 72.  california had
different laws about pollution back then.

mike

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 06:18:19 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: ADMIN: Re: Q 4 the fellow stereo buffs

I managed to miss this while it was in progress or I would have jumped in
earlier. Message to all involved: this is a perfect way to get off this
list. You have violated any number of guidelines. No profanity of any sort
or accusations toward other list members is tolerated here. Keep it up and
you're gone.

And a Merry Christmas to all.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 05:20:48 -0600
From: bloom9@juno.com (C K)
Subject: parts car, session 4

 Hello all, this time I went for the auto console in the floor. As stated
before I've never seen one in a '67 Cutlass S. All in all it was a pretty
easy job. I went ahead at pulled back the carpet enough and removed the
wiring harness as well.

Next I went for the heater core. Now I thought that this would be best
done for under the hood, since I've never removed one before. Wrong!
After un-bolting the entire fan motor housing and pulling it from the
car, I could see the heater core and also see it wasn't coming out
without first going inside the car and somehow unbolting it from there.

Inside the car on the passenger side I started removing screws from the
in housing under the dash area. This was not fun! When the engineers
designed this car they had in mind some nut like me who some thirty years
later would be crazy enough to try to remove the heater core. They put
screws in places where the sun definantly doesn't shine.

 However, I overcame the situation and was surprised when the whole core
support came out with the housing. It wasn't until I was home with the
parts and looking at them in the garage that I noticed that I could have
reached into the inner housing through the deverter flap for the heater
and removed two screws to free up the core itself.

Since my heater core is starting to leak in my daily driver ('67 plain
jane Cutlass ) this is how I'll remove it , but I'll still have to remove
the fan housing under the hood to psyically pull the core out. I will say
thie, it was neat doing all the extra work because I always wondered what
was behind all the housings anyway. Well, that's all I got done, I'll
keep you posted.

Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 07:34:14 -0800
From: Keith Hansen <kjhansen@wans.net>
Subject: '85 Cutlass Electrical Problem

Howdy list!
I'm a new member and have a specific electrical problem. My 17 year old
was installing a new stereo in my '85 Cutlass and he pulled a Climate
Control light bulb and attached a voltmeter to it to see if he could
hook the stereo light up to it.  Now none of the dash lights work but
the fuses in the fuse box all look good.  Any idea what could be wrong?
One other thing.  I'm a drag racer at heart.  This little 307 with 140
hp doesn't have a lot of oomph.  But from what I've read, it's a strong
little block.  What can we do to get it some power?  Sources for parts?
I prefer to go with the Olds engine rather than swap a Chevy 350 into
it.
Keith Hansen
'85 Olds 307/4bbl

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 08:44:29 EST
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: Cars for sale in Atlanta

hi jeff here...sounds like we have another olds lover here...

i'd like to talk to you, and maybe have you join our local olds chapter...

i was the pres last yr  jeff    770   723-9345

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 05:58:16 PST
From: "Ryan D" <riviera72sss@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: How sad...(was counrty roads)

Hey,im sorry i type bad,and im sorry i put that wrong,i don't know why 
your being a d!ck about it ,i just wanted people to know that allot of 
people are dieing out thare..

>Ryan........
>   You must realize the more you type, the more
> you reveal about your sad self...!!! 
>I hope I never meet you or any of your
> "buddies" on the open road..!!
>
>Mike...................
>

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 09:04:01 -0500
From: "Bill Reilly" <wjreilly@erols.com>
Subject: NOS Olds 350

Hey guys,

When I reintroduced myself last week, I mentioned I'm going to be buying a
donor/parts car sometime after the holidays to supply my '84 with a new
heart.  The car I believe is a '73 Cutlass 2dr.  It comes with two motors,
both 350s.
One is original and needs to be rebuilt.  The other I'm a little sceptical
about.  This guy claims to have bought an NOS  ~OLDS~  350 from GM in 1991.
I know a few people on the list worked for GM or at dealerships etc.
Perhaps a few of you even tried to get a motor from GM back then.  MY
question to you would be, if it was really possible to purchase an Olds 350
new in 1991?  The Olds 350 was only put in cars up until '80?  Right? Then
it was the diesel version up to '85-'86, which is a little different from a
gas engine.  Could Olds have had new 350s sitting around for that long?

So do you think this guy is legit, or is he pulling my leg?

Bill Reilly
'83 Cutlass Ciera
'84 CSB
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 09:05:14 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Good review for listmembers

I just found this link stuffed away in my bookmarks
 and thought it would be a good time for ALL listmembers
 to review this excellent source of list etiquitte..!!

http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm


Let's all look this over again and refresh our minds on 
just how a list is supposed 
to run..!!

Thanks and Merry Oldsmobile Christmas..

Mike

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 08:05:55 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: NOS Olds 350

Back about that time I know for sure you could get 403's from GM but these
weren't brand new but factory remanufactured, I think (could definately be
wrong).  If you could get a 403 you could definately get a 350.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>Hey guys,
>
>When I reintroduced myself last week, I mentioned I'm going to be buying a
>donor/parts car sometime after the holidays to supply my '84 with a new
>heart.  The car I believe is a '73 Cutlass 2dr.  It comes with two motors,
>both 350s.
>One is original and needs to be rebuilt.  The other I'm a little sceptical
>about.  This guy claims to have bought an NOS  ~OLDS~  350 from GM in 1991.
>I know a few people on the list worked for GM or at dealerships etc.
>Perhaps a few of you even tried to get a motor from GM back then.  MY
>question to you would be, if it was really possible to purchase an Olds 350
>new in 1991?  The Olds 350 was only put in cars up until '80?  Right? Then
>it was the diesel version up to '85-'86, which is a little different from a
>gas engine.  Could Olds have had new 350s sitting around for that long?
>
>So do you think this guy is legit, or is he pulling my leg?
>
>Bill Reilly
>'83 Cutlass Ciera
>'84 CSB
>'85 Cutlass Supreme
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 22:09:45 +0800 (SGT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: bad day/hubs,studs and lug nuts

- ---Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com> wrote:

<snip>  My point is, tack welding the
> studs is IMHO a good idea, I had that done and I haven't had a problem
> since. <snip>
- -------------------------------------------

While I can't preach too bad about this idea (I have 2 of my studs
tack welded on) it is not the greatest idea. If one of those studs
were to ever break, you are stuck with buying a new drum unless you
can find a way to break that weld and get the stud out. I had to do
this on my Cutlass due to ignorance of a local tire shop. I had all 4
brand new BFG T/A's installed on my car. They torqued my lugs down to
130 ft/lbs!!!!!!!! Needless to say, they gouged my rims bad and my
brand new lug nuts. Plus, they also stripped the splines on 4 of the
studs. I did manage to get 2 new ones to press into the old (now
twisted) splines, but I had to have the other 2 tack welded. I was
pissed so I took my service manual plus a package of lug nuts with a
receipt (They claimed that I had the wrong lug nuts on there) to the
shop. They argued with me for a while until I slammed the manual down
and found the torque setting of 75 ft/lbs. I raised such a scene that
4 customers walked out! I told them that I am never bringing my car
back to them. If I ever get a flat (Have roadside assistance warranty)
I will take the tire off and have them work on it. Enough of my
b*tching, back to the list....

Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 09:10:24 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: bad day/hubs,studs and lug nuts

Hey, I have two cents to add.

Todd,
If you do have them tack welded, make sure they are welded very well.  The
reason I say this is I have a front drum assembly from a 69 4-4-2 parts car
that I purchased just for the original front drum.  Good thing the pieces
were all apart when I bought them because I would have never gotten the
drums off the hubs because all the tack welds broke and the stud just fell
out of the hubs.  If I had to remove the lug nuts, the studs would be
spinning and I think I would still be struggling with them (I bought them
over 2 years ago)

As far as other applications that interchange, I believe any 68-72 a-body
drum brake setup would work.  But there are two types.  One is the one-piece
drum/hub and the other is what it sounds like you speak of.  To tell the
difference, if you have to undo the castle nut and take out the wheel
bearing to remove the drum you have the one piece drum/hub assembly.  They
do interchange as an assembly though.  And as for availability, I believe
Supercars carries these.  Or a junk yard should have them.  I also have a
front drum setup for sale.  It is from a 71 Skylark and if I recall one side
is the one piece and the other is two piece.  Both drums are bad and all the
wheel bearing are shot, but the hubs are fine.  If you are interested, shoot
me an email at chris@abcs.com as they are just taking up space in my garage.

And yes, get another opinion on the other front end components, but get that
hub first ASAP.  Driving around on only one lug nut is not a good thing.

Guess I'm a little long winded this morning, but hey I've gotta make up for
all that time away from the list :)

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 09:12:33 -0500
From: "Bill Reilly" <wjreilly@erols.com>
Subject: looking for bench seat : non olds

Hey,

This is non Olds related but I was hoping we could assist.  A friend of my
dad's is restoring a g body style Regal and is looking for a 55/45 bench
seat and passenger side armrest.

Option code AM6 for the bench seat with "pillow cushions" (extra fluffy?)
color code 22D, Dark Royal Blue

If anyone has any leads, please contact me, at wjreilly@erols.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 09:08:46 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: NOS Olds 350

>This guy claims to have bought an NOS  ~OLDS~  350 from GM in >1991.


Bill,

I'm not sure if NOS 350's were available in 91 or not. I wonder if he meant
a factory rebuilt 350?

Just a thought,
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 09:16:47 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: Brake distribution block

> cases. Is there a difference in the brake distribution block between a
> drum
> and disc brake car? 
> 
Oh yes, for ease of assembly for the assembly line workers.  You can either
a)get new lines or b)get new fittings for the lines and flare them on.
There are other differences too, most notably (and often overlooked) the
brake hose frame brackets.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 09:36:32 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: Heater controls

> Anyone want to tell me how to get the heater controls, headlite switch,
> and wiper switch out of a 69 Cutlass dash? This is embarrassing but so`s
> 
Headlight switch - after unscrewing the bezel or ring as you called it,
you'll have to look at the back side of the switch.  There is a little
button that must be depressed and then the on/off know with shaft can be
removed and the switch will come out the back.

Wiper switch - I believe this is just unscrewing the bezel and then
unscrewing the second smaller retaining nut and the switch should come out
the back.  Oh and to remove the knob so the switch will come out, there is
an allen head set screw that needs to be loosened.

Heater controls - well, obviously all the cables and lines and stuff needs
to be unhooked from the back, I'd suggest marking everything.  There are
four speed nuts I believe that can be accessed from the back that hold the
controls to the dash.  Once these come out, the control panel should come
out the front of the dash.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 10:02:08 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST

In a message dated 12/10/98 11:14:43 PM EST, igor455@home.com writes:

<< Lately there does not seem to be as much mail as before.  I remember a year
 back I would get swamped with mail daily.  Now it seems less.  Hmm, anybody
 else. >>

You must be joking. I get enough mail each day to wallpaper my garage! Are we
tuned to the same station?
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv. (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 10:05:07 -0500
From: Bob Dale <bctad5@toolcity.net>
Subject: Re: Heater controls

Semantana Chris (ONEX) wrote:

> > Anyone want to tell me how to get the heater controls, headlite
> switch,
> > and wiper switch out of a 69 Cutlass dash? This is embarrassing but
> so`s
> >
> Headlight switch - after unscrewing the bezel or ring as you called
> it,
> you'll have to look at the back side of the switch.  There is a little
>
> button that must be depressed and then the on/off know with shaft can
> be
> removed and the switch will come out the back.
>
> Wiper switch - I believe this is just unscrewing the bezel and then
> unscrewing the second smaller retaining nut and the switch should come
> out
> the back.  Oh and to remove the knob so the switch will come out,
> there is
> an allen head set screw that needs to be loosened.
>
> Heater controls - well, obviously all the cables and lines and stuff
> needs
> to be unhooked from the back, I'd suggest marking everything.  There
> are
> four speed nuts I believe that can be accessed from the back that hold
> the
> controls to the dash.  Once these come out, the control panel should
> come
> out the front of the dash.
>
> Chris Smetana
> Terre Haute, IN
> http://www.abcs.com/chris
>
> 1969 W-31
> 1969 4-4-2 parts car
> plus others

   Thanks alot Chris

  Bob

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 01:15:53 +1100 (EST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: bad day/hubs,studs and lug nuts

If your car has disk brakes, the studs would come part of a new
> rotor. But i would assume by the tone of your post, you must have
front drum
> brakes. ( Both my 72's had disk brakes on the front) If they are
drums, i
> would think the hubs should be available through Napa or you could
try some
> places from 442. com or Super cars Unlimited, Not sure of the cost
of new
> hubs, or what other cars would interchange if you had to go to a
salvage
> yard....SCOTT.
- ---------------------------------------------

Go to the yard with specs on what the maximum diameter of the drum can
be and a means of measuring them. Just for a rear drum on my 69
Cutlass, you are looking at just about 70 bucks from NAPA. (Only place
around here that has em.) No one here can even find the front drums!
(Am kinda scared to price one of those!)

Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 09:35:31 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: Subject: Re: Alternator still high

>Don't you guys burn out a lot of bulbs?

In short, no.

roger

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 12 Dec 1998 00:58:00 +1100 (EST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Heater controls

- ---Bob Dale <bctad5@toolcity.net> wrote:
>
> Anyone want to tell me how to get the heater controls, headlite
switch,
> and wiper switch out of a 69 Cutlass dash? This is embarrassing but
so`s
> my spelling. Thought ya just srewed the rinf off for the switches but
> that`s not doin it.
> 
> Bob-69 Cutlass 455/400
- -----------------------------------------------------

The headlight and light switch all come off just by unscrewing the
chrome ring on the outside. The headlight switch you may have to pull
the slide part out first. There is a small button located back by the
wiring hook-ups. You have to push that just right and then pull on the
nob and it should pull all the way out. The wiper switch you will have
to take the nob off from as well. That requires a small allen wrench.
There is a small screw on the nob that you need to take off. I have no
idea about the heater controls though. I am not sure if those even
come off. Hope this helps.

Del

==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 09:30:18 -0600
From: Les Knopp <LESK@wcs.edu>
Subject: 69S

FYI:  found... 69 Cutlass S conv. ... this car is sitting at a local car
lot, on the back row.  it looks to have a good, straight body, and is
in bad need of a top and four tires... or maybe just some air for
the ones it's got.  if anyone is interested let me know and I'll
forward you the name and ph. number of the dealer.

92 Trofeo
71 Monte Carlo SS

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 07:38:17 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Olds stereo

I have been VERY lucky on all of my cars, the dashes im my cars have 
been untouched.  You may want to do what I have done and install a cd 
changer in the trunk.


>Hello fellow Olds lovers I recently purchased a 70 Cutlass Supreme with 
>a virgin dashboard that no damn kids have hacked up for some 20 dollar 
>half broken stereo and I remember my brother's 71 Cutlass Supreme had 
an 
>underdash tape player.  I was wondering if someone out there has one 
>they could sell me at a decent price or a company that sells these.  I 
>have A CD player that I want to install in the car and I refuse to HACK 
>UP the dash in my Olds and I know for a fact that the CD player fits 
>well into the underdash tape player.  If anyone has one PLEASE let me 
>know.  Keep in mind I don't care what color and I don't want the tape 
>player just the mounting brackets and the whole rest of the setup and 
>case that holds the tape player.
>
>
>70 CUTLASS SUPREME
>78 CUTLASS SUPREME
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 10:37:51 EST
From: Lou0118@aol.com
Subject: Re: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST

In a message dated 98-12-10 23:14:48 EST, you write:

<< Lately there does not seem to be as much mail as before.  I remember a year
 back I would get swamped with mail daily.  Now it seems less.  Hmm, anybody
 else. >>

I just joined the last a week ago and can't believe all this mail.  You mean
there was more than this?

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: 11 Dec 98 07:43:21 PST
From: bruce suess <restoman@netscape.net>
Subject: double posting

what's with all the double posting? what a pain...

 

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Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 10:44:12 EST
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Dino's wing/spoiler for $150

In a message dated 98-12-11 00:57:33 EST, you write:

>I have new 3 piece spoilers which are perfect for $150. You won't be
>disappointed.
>Dennis
>209-322-8441
>
>

dennis, aren`t you the one with the vista cruzier i talked to about 6 months
ago? weren`t you looking for some parts?    steven,  w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 10:40:35 EST
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: NOS Olds 350/questions or opinions?

In a message dated 98-12-11 09:17:05 EST, you write:

>
>I'm not sure if NOS 350's were available in 91 or not. I wonder if he meant
>a factory rebuilt 350?

here in okla., oreillys auto parts stores sell ATK brand motors.  they are
licesends by GM to sell them as factory replacement engs. 3 yrs. or 36000 mi.
warranty.  this is on che*y motors.  i called and asked about a 350 olds motor
and they said they carried a remannufactured motor with 1 yr. or 12000 mi.
warranty. price was 950$ for a long block, and used good quality parts. i
thought about getting one for a daily driver (work car).  anyone ever buy one
of these type of engs. from a jobber?   any comments/opinions?       if i were
building the car for show or restoring it i would build it my self and use
only the best parts. but there`s is built with the same parts i would use.
and this would save me some time.  steven,  w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 10:45:42 EST
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69S

In a message dated 98-12-11 10:43:29 EST, you write:

>
>FYI:  found... 69 Cutlass S conv. ... this car is sitting at a local car
>lot, on the back row.  it looks to have a good, straight body, and is
>in bad need of a top and four tires... or maybe just some air for
>the ones it's got.  if anyone is interested let me know and I'll
>forward you the name and ph. number of the dealer.
>
>

what state is it in?  w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 08:13:36 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: WHAT IS WRONG WITH THE LIST

>I just joined the last a week ago and can't believe all this mail.  You mean
>there was more than this?

there used to be

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 11 Dec 1998 08:52:05 -0600
From: "Paul L. Brillhart" <u17058@UICVM.UIC.EDU>
Subject: Re: welding exhaust divider/milling exhausts

At 07:18 PM 12/10/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Paul,
>
>That was me -- Dave told me to do this on my small-block heads since they
>don't have the center divider out to the edge of the port (none did on a
>small-block, I believe) and I want to get the two ports divided so the custom
>headers I've had made will work properly.  He told me to take it down so the
>divider was wide enough to support a gasket between the two ports, don't
>change the angular relation of the deck surface of the head to the surface of
>the exhaust ports (in other words, don't angle-mill the exhaust port side)
and
>the bolt holes will be OK.  As for the header flange, test-assemble the
>headers to the engine on the stand, and carefully grind the necessary amount
>off of the bottom of the headers' flange, that's what we had to do, and it
>didn't take much.
>
>OR, here's the other way he told me to work the situation.  We can't do it,
>because this would be considered as modifying the ports, which is a no-no in
>our local rule book.  Have the divider squarely milled back inside of the
>port, and weld a tab onto the headers that will correspond with the milled
>divider.
>
>It would be so much easier if only they'd have made that divider just a
little
>bit longer.......
>
Ken,

  I'll have the heads milled flush.  Two questions:
	1. How much area is wide enough to support the gasket?"
	2. What do you mean by grinding the bottom of the flange?


Also, for all those out there, filling/brazing the center heat riser:

	1. Zinc alloy or aluminum pistons to fill it?
	or	
	2. Braze/weld it shut?


  Thanks.

  Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

Date: 11 Dec 98 08:35:15 PST
From: bruce suess <restoman@netscape.net>
Subject: 70  supreme parts car

I have 70 supreme (2-door hardtop) parts car left over
from 70 442 convert restoration.I didn't take much LOTS 
of good stuff left inc. good 455+turbo400.tons of good
trim and some nos. grills.ps,pdb,ps,ac,12-bolt.interior shot
parts or whole car i may keep the motor+trans.sell the rest
for $500. can call Bruce@502 825-4899 car is in tucsonAZ 


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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1659
*********************************

