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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1678


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, December 21 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1678



Re: Rear woe
Re: Rear woes becoming list woes (long)
Re: Rallye-Pac circuit boards
Re: Rear woe
Re: Signing off for a while (Was Re: '99 Olds Nats??)
Paint Color:Wet-Sanding/Buffing?
Re: Rear woe
Re: Paint Color:Wet-Sanding/Buffing?
Re: Was Buick, now nickel, and Rockit's 425
uns*bscribe oldsmobile
my last C head 350 post [for now at least] 
UNSUBSCRIBE FOR HOLIDAYS
Re: Paint Color:Wet-Sanding/Buffing?
77 350 overhaul
Re: Big cars
Re: Paint Color:Wet-Sanding/Buffing?
Re: [Paint Color:Wet-Sanding/Buffing?]
Re: 77 350 overhaul
Salvage Yards - Vintage Car Net Links (
http://vintagecars.miningco.com/msub20.h
Re: 77 350 overhaul
Salvage yard site - resend
Re: Manual trans cars (was: Big cars)
Re: 1970 cutlass supreme SX
Re: 77 350 overhaul
info
UNBOUNCE: info (re. Olds Music)
Dyno Sheet - Results
Re: 77 350 overhaul
Re: 1970 cutlass supreme SX
Re: 1970 cutlass supreme SX
Top Boot 4sale
72 A/C setup 4sale
Re: Preserving the Build Sheet (Was Re: Found build sheet...)
Re: 1970 cutlass supreme SX
455 valve springs/Mondello4sale
Still looking for cowl tag codes!
Re: Paint Color:Wet-Sanding/Buffing?
Re: 77 350 overhaul
Re: restricted carb racing thoughts
Re: 1970 cutlass supreme SX (where are the 73 figures)
This guy's looking for advice; '72 Cutlass conv.
Re: Early Christmas Present
Re: Buick engines
88 OLD'S
request for wiring diagram. JASON ADCOCK?
Re: request for wiring diagram. JASON ADCOCK?
Re: This guy's looking for advice; '72 Cutlass conv.
Re: Buick engines
1954 Oldsmobile Super "Rocket" 88 for Sale
RE: request for wiring diagram. JASON ADCOCK?
RE: Olds and F-Bodies
Merry Christmas

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 16:11:05 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Rear woe

And I suppose you would junk a car due to rust in the
floorboards.  If you can intelligently tell me the flaw in
my concept of pinion bearing preload then I would 
gladly admit I am wrong.  If you can do nothing but
take pot shots at me because my opinions differ from
yours then go ahead and revert back to 6th grade.  I 
freely admit I don't know everything and I can be wrong
but I will not say I'm wrong without some sort of coherent
reason.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 15:17:47 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Rear woes becoming list woes (long)

RARE73OLDS@aol.com jokingly wrote:
> 
> Then I guess when you replace a pinion seal dont bother to check the preload

OK, I gotta add a few comments to this thread...  Make that, Rope.

First, and I always hate having to point this out, but notice how all the other
posts and conversations have been casually removed from ~this~ posting... 
Fairly simple to do...  

Second, as to the half-ass part about cutting corners.  Yes, cutting corners
will usually leave you unhappy in the long run.  It's ~always~ strongly advised
to check the manual for recommended procedures, whenever possible...  However,
there are times when cutting corners become necessary.  These times involve
points where it's financially impossible to fully repair it correctly.  Other
times, experience takes over and allows common sense to function.  How many of
you ~actually~ replace the wheel seals when pulling the front rotor for bearing
inspections???  I sure don't.  Unless it's bad.  I beleive most manuals say
~always~ change it.  Yeah right.  Maybe on a customer's car, if your business's
reputation is on the line, but on your own car, use your own judgement.  With
that rear pinion, if you take it to a shop to have it done ~correctly~ they'll
probably go through the whole thing, hub to hub, and your leaking seal has now
become a $1000 repair.  I don't think so.  FWIW, I ~think~ the procedure on
these pinions require replacement of that crush sleeve ~every~ time it's been
openned.  Who does that?  Doesn't matter, but if it's giving you crap, I'd at
least put a new sleeve in it and reinstall accordingly.  That sleeve not only
sets preload of the gearset, but acts as locking mechanism for the nut.  If 
it's
oversqueezed, the nut may be able to back off on it's own.  If there's any 
doubt
about the integrity, replace the crush sleeve, and torque it properly.  If it's
been a problem, I'd probably want to pull the cover off, and clean it up, and 
at
least do a pattern check on it, just for peace of mind.  If it goes together
wrong, you may have headaches in the future.  But if you're just trying to
band-aid it for awhile, which ~I'm~ famous for myself, then it's probably 
fine. 
When I put my 2.73 in, I just swapped pinions.  Took a quick pattern test,
looked close enough, and I buttoned it up.  Nothing fancy, and didn't really
care how long it'd last, I just wanted something better, fast.  And it still
worked just fine when I pulled it out, to switch to the 3.23s.  

The moral?  Don't cut corners unless you're fairly certain it won't come back 
to
haunt you (This is an experience-judgement-call).  And if you ~do~ cut corners,
be aware that it ~may~ come back to haunt you anyways.  This applies to much
more than automotive usage, so feel free to remember it ;)


Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 17:37:10 EST
From: Lou0118@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rallye-Pac circuit boards

In a message dated 98-12-19 19:24:56 EST, you write:

<< Jim or Joanne Chermack wrote:
 > 
 > Peter & all,
 > 
 >         The Clock Doc has the stuff to repair these to as good as new. Cost
is
 > $80.00
 
 That seems awfully expensive!
 I know there would be a little time on the router (I'm thinking of the
 '68-'72 rallye paks), but it should be half that price.  Maybe I should
 start making these...hmmmm
 -- 
 Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
 71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
 OCA# 30442
  >>
 
The guy that I got my car from had Clock Doc rebuild the speedo, put a quartz
conversion in the clock, repair and rebuild the other gauges, restore the
lenses and restore the instrument cluster.  The cost was $511 in 1994.
Everything still works fine and looks great.

May be expensive, but seems to be worth it.

Lou Principe 
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 17:43:55 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rear woe

POT SHOTS ..WHAT WAS THAT..anyway , have a Merry Christmas and do like
Americans are suppose to do..anything are minds want....we are free and thats
that.Not worth getting to nuts about, it still is just a car! Harry NJ
              73 Cutlass S 455/4spd 8,900 miles
              67 W30
              66 Starfire 4spd
              65 442

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 14:54:39 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Signing off for a while (Was Re: '99 Olds Nats??)

>> ...have room for a Vega?
>> Lou
>
> Shouldn'd be hard, right?  All you need is a small box to
> hold all the iron oxide powder...  ;-)
>
> Joe (I used to own one) Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com

You can use the empty case from all the oil you bought for it.

- -- Andy (that was my first car and I got it for $50 and the
Bill of Sale actually has the phrase "believe it or not" in
middle) Green

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 17:33:48 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Paint Color:Wet-Sanding/Buffing?

Here is a question for you body men/painters out there. Here is the
scenario. A car was painted with DuPont ChromaBase color. The car was
sprayed with it and then cleared. Afterwards it was wet-sanded and buffed.
An area had to be touched up so a new quart of that paint had to be bought.
THe original gallon was empty. We went back to the DuPont store and took
along a bezel which was painted with the original gallon and also took the
original paint codes off of the gallon. A new quart was mixed and it was
then sprayed and clear was put on the car. Now when you look at it you can
see the area that was touched up with the quart. It matches but to a
certain degree looks lighter.

My question is this. If we wet-sand and buff the area out will it blend in
with the surrounding areas?? Does wet-sanding and buffing change the paints
color(making it a little deeper)?

We took another piece that was painted wiht the original gallon and they
analyzed it with the computer and it acme back to the same paint we had
bought originally. So why does the new quart seem to be lighter?? THey even
mixed us up a new quart again and it still came out a little lighter when
sprayed on the car. 

My main concern is that hopefully when wet-sanded and buffed it will then
match-up. It is frustrating because we put 100+ hours into the prep and
paint and now when we are almost done this happens. Hopefully the color
will match when wet-sanded and buffed>>???

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 18:31:59 EST
From: Knightvd@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rear woe

Wow, well uh... thanks everyone again for your help.  I think that this kind
of "back and forth" keeps it interesting and the information is invaluable.

Anyway my car is not mint by any stretch.  I put very few miles on it and am
very diligent about maintenance and such.

Considering this, I think that what I'm going to do is get a new seal and nut.
Tighten the nut a "reasonable" amount.  (I should be OK, since I have had some
experience with setting up this rear.  I remember it taking a half inch
breaker bar to crush the sleeve, and I'm definitely not going to go that nuts
on it.)  Apply some blue Locktite and I'll also take off the cover and change
the fluid.

I will keep a close eye and ear on it after I do this.  I will report back how
I make out.  If there is any noise etc. I will take apart the rear and install
a new crush collar.

Thanks again,

Vince Knight

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 16:37:29 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Paint Color:Wet-Sanding/Buffing?

> My question is this. If we wet-sand and buff the area out will it blend in
> with the surrounding areas?? Does wet-sanding and buffing change the paints
> color(making it a little deeper)?

I'm no pro on bodywork, and have little actual experience, so hopefully someone
will jump in here to give more direct information about it... 

My assumption would be that you'll need to sand down the clear around the
affected area, and probably around a full area around it, then you can probably
respray and colorsand from there.  Once the clearcoat is applied, the
colorsanding doesn't change the color, only the lustre, correct???  Any
colorsanding/matching/blending will need to be done before the clear is 
applied,
right?  Problem being that most clearcoats want to be applied while the 
basecoat
is still tacky.  There's lots of magic and voodoo involved in getting a good,
clean paint job, and I think you're experiencing the proof.  I'll forward this
to my painting buddy back home, and get his takes on it...

- -- 

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 16:40:53 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Was Buick, now nickel, and Rockit's 425

My '76 455 block had a decent sized ridge on it hence why I put new pistons
in (and wanted CR).  So when did the high-nickel content go down.  I have a
'72 455 core with Ga heads so maybe that nickel content is not bad.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 19:37:19 EST
From: J442eff@aol.com
Subject: uns*bscribe oldsmobile

uns*bscribe olds

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 19:41:41 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: my last C head 350 post [for now at least] 

Mike,
 I agree that we've done just about enough expressing on the "C" head is 
good/bad on a 8000 rpm 350 subject.  I'll try to make this my
last post on the subject. I still do believe that the "C" will make more 
"peak" power on the 350-370 incher. The question is, how much
midrange torque would the "C" give up. I admit, bottom end would be gone. This 
is only my opinion. I read somewhere that Olds tried it
when the were developing the W-31, but they deemed it to peaky an engine for 
the public. I'm sure some Olds guy out there has tried it.
Either they don't want everyone to know why their little inch Olds runs so 
well[at high rpm] or it's a slug. Either way i'd like to
know.

 I'm really not a big block[high deck] only guy.  The only thing that has 
prevented me from building a small block[lowdeck] is the fact
that a big Olds can be built for only a few bucks more than a small Olds.

 On the cfm formula, i was trying to get the point across that the 7500 rpm 
350 needs a wee bit more air than a 5800 rpm 455, no matter
what V/E # you use. Rev the small motor higher, or make it a 370 incher, and 
the smaller motor needs a good bit more air than the 455 at
5800.

 My head hurts a bit too. But it was fun.

Dave Brode
64 Cutlass

P.S.  hey Mike, have you notice that Edelbrock cast the lowdeck performer RPM 
intake with enough meat to open it up to match the "455"
head intake port? Sorry, i couldn't resist.

>
>
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 16:04:57 -0600
> From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
> Subject: Seemingly ultimate peak of bench racing
>
> Dave,
> All this thought is starting to make my brain ache so I'll keep it
> short.
>
> We are getting into a lot of unprovable personal opinion here.
> Seemingly you are a BB guy and I know I am a SB diehard.  I
> know from past experience that a set of prepped 7a's on a
> 350 will pull hard to 8000.  That's the point, right?  The throttle
> body was 900 CFM so that wasn't the limiting factor.  There
> is a difference between a static measurement and an actual
> measurement while the engine is running.  Just like your true
> running CR is dependant on your cam (bleed of pressure
> with overlap, terminoligy may be off but my head hurts!) your
> flow numbers on the bench can be quite different than when
> the engine is running.  I estimated the hp on my 350 to be
> somewhere above 420 but have no actual dyno figures
> to back that up.  The reason I estimated that is that the
> Edelbrock set-up was supposed to make 397.  I was
> running slightly more CR, duration/lift, and fuel injection.
> Never had the money to dial it in at the strip but it did
> run 14.2 w/ 3 sec 60 ft times.  Car spun off the line a lot
> and had a tight converter, hard street tires, and 3.43 gears.
> With more converter/sticky tires/more gear it should have
> done a lot better but, alas, it was my daily driver.
>
> I will bow out of the huge/small port debate as it is a difference
> of opinion.  I do still believe that maximizing low lift flow/
> port velocity coupled with a long duration cam is the way
> to go, at least until you start talking roller cams.  Roller cams
> is something that hasn't come up and with thier ability to
> have a much steeper ramp on the cam I would be interested
> to see you POV on them.
>
> The CFM question is what I have been thinking most of.
> Normally I only use that formula to determine what size
> carb the engine would need.  For determining port flow
> numbers I don't really see how useful this is.  My first
> instinct was to divide by 8 but that can't be right.
> Somehow you have to take into account cam duration
> in that during the minute in the CFM each cyl is only
> open a certain amount of that time.  I guess that each
> cyl_is_ taking 1/8th of the total CFM, but not continuously.
> So how do you determine what portion of time each cyl
> is flowing.  Then you have the fact that during each cam
> cycle the cyl is flowing low/med/high/med/low lift numbers.
> How do you normalize that in a given time/flow sequence.
> This is what has really made my head hurt and if someone
> can unconfuse me I would greatly appreciate it.  The more
> I think about it the worse it gets since the more impications
> I think of to further compound the formula.
>
> Still fun though my head hurts
> Mike B
> mbloomer@gateway.net
> ICQ# 19113713
> 72 Cutlass S (RIP)
> 68 Cutlass Supreme
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 05:44:33 -0600
From: clarence <cw63nova@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: UNSUBSCRIBE FOR HOLIDAYS

I am unsubscribing for the holidays. MERRY CHRISTMAS TO ALL

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 20:23:44 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Paint Color:Wet-Sanding/Buffing?

My question is this. If we wet-sand and buff the area out will it blend in
with the surrounding areas?? Does wet-sanding and buffing change the paints
color(making it a little deeper)?
_____________

If the paint in question is a metallic, that is likely your problem.
Metallics will appear lighter or darker depending on the pressure at which
they are sprayed and the "wetness" of the spray.  Wet spray = darker, dry
spray = lighter.  In all likelyhood, the paints _are_ the same, but due to
the difference in spray, you're seeing more of the metallic and thus a
lighter color.  The color sanding may change the color slightly, but it may
also cause a mottled appearance (been there, done that).  Another option is
to try to put a wetter coat on , however you obviously run the risk of runs
in the paint.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 20:48:07 EST
From: HCarn@aol.com
Subject: 77 350 overhaul

I'm rebuilding a 77 350/4bbl in an 82 chevy malibu wagon.I want the best way
to buid it. It now makes a 85 mile round trip everyday and still manages to
spank a Camero or two.What axle ratio do I need also.I love the Idea of having
this engine hiding in a "grocery getter"!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 20:31:36 -0500
From: "W-MACHINES" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: Re: Big cars

Yes, my '65 Jetstar 1 is a factory 4-speed!

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com   
Centennial Feature at http://www.en.com/users/wmachine/wm.html
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
> To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject: Big cars
> Date: Saturday, December 19, 1998 4:15 PM
> 
> Did the full size (88/98/Toro) ever come with a 4 speed?  I know Ch#vy
> offered it in some rare cases, but did Olds?
> 
> I would love to find a 70 Delta 88 Conv with a W30 4 speed!!  
> 
> What a dream, eh?
> 
> Thomas Martin
> 80 Turbo Trans AM
> 85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
> 91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 20:04:40 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Paint Color:Wet-Sanding/Buffing?

Both times the paint was sprayed at 45psi. The paint was put on with a
heavier "wet" coat. 
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Paint Color:Wet-Sanding/Buffing?
> Date: Sunday, December 20, 1998 7:23 PM
> 
> My question is this. If we wet-sand and buff the area out will it blend
in
> with the surrounding areas?? Does wet-sanding and buffing change the
paints
> color(making it a little deeper)?
> _____________
> 
> If the paint in question is a metallic, that is likely your problem.
> Metallics will appear lighter or darker depending on the pressure at
which
> they are sprayed and the "wetness" of the spray.  Wet spray = darker, dry
> spray = lighter.  In all likelyhood, the paints _are_ the same, but due
to
> the difference in spray, you're seeing more of the metallic and thus a
> lighter color.  The color sanding may change the color slightly, but it
may
> also cause a mottled appearance (been there, done that).  Another option
is
> to try to put a wetter coat on , however you obviously run the risk of
runs
> in the paint.
> 
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
> 
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 69 442
> 70 W-30
> 

------------------------------

Date: 20 Dec 98 18:02:18 PST
From: bruce suess <restoman@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Paint Color:Wet-Sanding/Buffing?]

oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:
Here is a question for you body men/painters out there. Here is the
scenario. A car was painted with DuPont ChromaBase color. The car was
sprayed with it and then cleared. Afterwards it was wet-sanded and buffed.
An area had to be touched up so a new quart of that paint had to be bought.
THe original gallon was empty. We went back to the DuPont store and took
along a bezel which was painted with the original gallon and also took the
original paint codes off of the gallon. A new quart was mixed and it was
then sprayed and clear was put on the car. Now when you look at it you can
see the area that was touched up with the quart. It matches but to a
certain degree looks lighter.

My question is this. If we wet-sand and buff the area out will it blend in
with the surrounding areas?? Does wet-sanding and buffing change the paints



Sorry, even paint out of same gallon won't be exact
match (for mettalics}.Best way is to blend into 
surounding area.never color sand met. b-coat,
any prof. painter should know this.Takes some experence
but you should be able to come REAL close.Dead on in
some lighting, noticable in other.Blending metalics
are a b*tch.







We took another piece that was painted wiht the original gallon and they
analyzed it with the computer and it acme back to the same paint we had
bought originally. So why does the new quart seem to be lighter?? THey even
mixed us up a new quart again and it still came out a little lighter when
sprayed on the car. 

My main concern is that hopefully when wet-sanded and buffed it will then
match-up. It is frustrating because we put 100+ hours into the prep and
paint and now when we are almost done this happens. Hopefully the color
will match when wet-sanded and buffed>>???

Pettrix@prodigy.net


RESTOMAN

____________________________________________________________________
More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://home.netscape.com/netcenter/mail

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 21:02:59 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: 77 350 overhaul

is this an OLDS 350?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 21:16:58 -0500
From: "Bill" <lewman@mindpulse.com>
Subject: Salvage Yards - Vintage Car Net Links (
http://vintagecars.miningco.com/msub20.h

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I found the following site which lists several salvage yards, at least =
one of which has Oldsmobiles.

http://vintagecars.miningco.com/msub20.htm

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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I found the following site which =
lists several=20
salvage yards, at least one of which has Oldsmobiles.</FONT></DIV><BR><A =

href=3D"http://vintagecars.miningco.com/msub20.htm">http://vintagecars.mi=
ningco.com/msub20.htm</A></BODY></HTML>

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URL=http://vintagecars.miningco.com/msub20.htm
Modified=C04A0FD1872CBE015C

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 21:05:38 EST
From: HCarn@aol.com
Subject: Re: 77 350 overhaul

yes it's an olds 77 350/4bbl 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 21:21:22 -0500
From: "Bill" <lewman@mindpulse.com>
Subject: Salvage yard site - resend

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For some reason the message did not go out correctly so I am resending.  =
This is a site I ran across and some yards do have Olds.

http://vintagecars.miningco.com/msub20.htm

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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>For some reason the message did not =
go out=20
correctly so I am resending.&nbsp; This is a site I ran across and some =
yards do=20
have Olds.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://vintagecars.miningco.com/msub20.htm">http://vintagecars.mi=
ningco.com/msub20.htm</A></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 20:50:03 -0500
From: "W-MACHINES" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: Re: Manual trans cars (was: Big cars)

Rick Strone has his father's '65 4-speed wagon (with the original build
sheet).  Maybe he'll come forward with the info!

All non-Cutlass F-85 442s (at least prior to '67) like the Club Coupes and
F-85 Deluxes with floor shift trans had bench seats.  Bench seats were not
a factory option on the F-85 line.


Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com   
Centennial Feature at http://www.en.com/users/wmachine/wm.html
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Manual trans cars (was: Big cars)
> Date: Saturday, December 19, 1998 5:32 PM
> 
> Did the full size (88/98/Toro) ever come with a 4 speed?  I know Ch#vy
> offered it in some rare cases, but did Olds?
> 
> I would love to find a 70 Delta 88 Conv with a W30 4 speed!!
> 
> What a dream, eh?
> 
> Thomas Martin
> ____________
> 
> Well, as far as the Toro is concerned, Olds only built a TH400-based FWD
> tranny for that car, so you'll never see an MT version.  The B-body cars
> _were_ available with an MT, but I believe it was only the three-speed on
> the column (the parts book _does_ show the clutch linkage for this setup,
> for example).  BTW, the W-option for the hi-po 70 Delta would be the
W-33,
> which was based on the police package.
> 
> Also, while we're talking about 4 speed cars, I've seen some references
in
> the factory literature that indicate that the VC was available with a 4
> speed in at least the 1969 model year (and possibly others).  You _could_
> get a 4 speed with a bench seat in the other A-body cars, so this isn't
> outside the realm of possibility.  Anyone ever see one of these rarities?
> 
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
> 
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 69 442
> 70 W-30
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 20:55:13 -0500
From: "W-MACHINES" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: Re: 1970 cutlass supreme SX

Hey gang, please help Bill with his question!

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com   
Centennial Feature at http://www.en.com/users/wmachine/wm.html
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: Bill <cosyc@usa.net>
> To: wmachine@en.com
> Subject: 1970 cutlass supreme SX
> Date: Sunday, December 20, 1998 12:59 PM
> 
> Wow, I really enjoyed your oldsmobile collection. I noticed that you
> seemed to know alot about production figures. I have 1970 Cutlass Suprem
> SX, which I purchased in Texas. I having trouble finding the production
> figures for it. Can you help?
> 
> Regards
> 
> Bill
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 20:19:24 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 77 350 overhaul

What do you want out of the car?  What kind of trans do you
have?  Are emissions tests an issue?  How much money
do you have to spend?  These are all things that are very
important in deciding CR, cam, gears, etc.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>I'm rebuilding a 77 350/4bbl in an 82 chevy malibu wagon.I want the best
way
>to buid it. It now makes a 85 mile round trip everyday and still manages to
>spank a Camero or two.What axle ratio do I need also.I love the Idea of
having
>this engine hiding in a "grocery getter"!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 20:21:16 -0600 (CST)
From: BHRTEXAS@webtv.net (Brenda Rogers)
Subject: info

HELLO, MY NAME IS HAROLD V. ROGERS. I HAVE RECORDED A SONG "88 OLD'S" IT
IS GETTING ALOT OF AIRPLAY IN EUROPE AND U.S. IT IS  THE ANSWER TO THE
HOTROD LINCOLN.  I BELIEVE THIS SONG WOULD BE GREAT FOR PROMOTION. COULD
YOU HELP ME AS TO WHO    TO CONTACT ? THE LAST VERSE SAYS:THE BOYS DADDY
WHO OWNED THE LINCOLN ,HAS THREW AWAY HIS BOTTLE AND QUIT HIS DRINKING.
SAYS HE'S QUIT AND HE ALWAYS WILL, CAUSE HE'S TRADIN IT OFF FOR AN
OLDSMOBILE   PLEASE CONTACT ME IF YOU CAN HELP. THANKS HAROLD V. ROGERS

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 22:26:05 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: info (re. Olds Music)

Here's an unusual one, but interesting... any music types out there? 
Respond to BHRTEXAS@webtv.net if interested. 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	BHRTEXAS@webtv.net (Brenda Rogers)
Subject: info

HELLO, MY NAME IS HAROLD V. ROGERS. I HAVE RECORDED A SONG "88 OLD'S" IT
IS GETTING ALOT OF AIRPLAY IN EUROPE AND U.S. IT IS  THE ANSWER TO THE
HOTROD LINCOLN.  I BELIEVE THIS SONG WOULD BE GREAT FOR PROMOTION. COULD
YOU HELP ME AS TO WHO    TO CONTACT ? THE LAST VERSE SAYS:THE BOYS DADDY
WHO OWNED THE LINCOLN ,HAS THREW AWAY HIS BOTTLE AND QUIT HIS DRINKING.
SAYS HE'S QUIT AND HE ALWAYS WILL, CAUSE HE'S TRADIN IT OFF FOR AN
OLDSMOBILE   PLEASE CONTACT ME IF YOU CAN HELP. THANKS HAROLD V. ROGERS

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 20:28:05 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Dyno Sheet - Results

Hi everybody,

I got such a big request for my dyno sheet I figured it would be easier
to post to all than separately. I'll post more specific engine specs if
wanted, my build sheet is at the shop and it's colder than a witches
ti#$y outside.

F4 455 block - .060 over
forged 455 crank - stroked to 4.40"
7" C&A rods
Arias custom pistons
C&A ZGS rings
Batten aluminum heads
Batten intake
Carb Shop 1050 Dominator - now flows 1350 cfm
Mondello/Engle roller cam -
.704" in  .712"ex  318in  328ex   110 lobe sep. - 278  288 @ .050"
Mondello aluminum main girdle
rocker girdle
9 qt. oiling sytem/Milidon pan
System 1 oil filter
Moroso electric water pump w/ adapter plate from Mondello
Mondello inertia flexplate
C&A and Clevite bearings - mains have top layer of babbit removed
cam bearings are cryogenic
compression ratio is 13.64:1

I'm sure there's some things I forgot. If so let me know I'll try to
help.

I hope you can read this, I had some trouble getting it to fit my email
from WordPerfect. If it's too bad let me know and I'll try again.

Engine___________________Displ = 485.00 cuin  STUSKA Eng. Co.
Avg.CF = 1.086 Fuel S.G. == .710 Barom = 28.10 RelHum = 72.0 %

RPM TORQUE CTORQ BHP     CBHP BSFC FUEL  A/F VOLEFF%

5400 576.2 626.3 592.4 643.9 .406 240.6 13.2 101.6
5500 578.2 628.5 605.6 658.2 .396 240.0 13.6 102.1
5600 574.3 624.3 612.4 665.6 .381 233.1 14.3 102.8
5700 577.6 627.8 626.9 681.4 .341 213.8 16.1 104.0
5800 575.1 625.1 635.2 690.4 .380 241.6 14.4 103.3
5900 572.9 622.7 643.6 699.6 .386 248.2 14.5 104.7
6000 570.2 619.8 651.4 708.1 .405 264.1 13.6 103.5
6100 566.7 615.9 658.1 715.4 .400 263.2 14.2 105.7
6200 561.7 610.5 663.1 720.7 .399 264.5 14.3 105.3
6300 548.7 595.8 658.1 714.6 .373 245.6 15.7 105.1
6400 541.8 588.3 660.3 716.9 .375 247.5 15.6 103.7
6500 534.0 579.9 660.9 717.7 .361 238.3 16.3 103.1
6600 528.6 574.0 664.3 721.3 .351 233.1 16.9 102.9
6700 526.9 572.1 672.1 729.8 .362 243.3 16.2 101.5
6800 515.8 560.1 667.9 725.2 .370 247.2 16.0 100.0

AVG 556.6 604.7 644.8 700.6 .379 244.3 15.0 103.3


RPM AIRFLOW 0ILPRES Air In H20 EGT2

5400 3182.8 53.7 79.5 132.4 1153
5500 3260.0 54.0 79.4 132.5 1156
5600 3340.3 54.4 79.4 132.7 1159
5700 3439.0 54.8 79.4 132.8 1161
5800 3477.0 55.2 79.4 133.2 1163
5900 3587.0 55.3 79.3 133.2 1167
6000 3603.8 55.7 79.3 133.0 1169
6100 3744.0 55.9 79.3 132.7 1172
6200 3789.8 56.0 79.3 132.5 1175
6300 3844.3 55.8 79.2 132.1 1180
6400 3853.5 55.6 79.1 131.7 1183
6500 3893.5 55.5 79.0 131.5 1189
6600 3943.0 55.3 79.0 131.6 1195
6700 3950.0 55.2 78.9 131.7 1198
6800 3952.8 55.3 78.8 131.9 1204

AVG 3657.4

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 21:29:25 EST
From: HCarn@aol.com
Subject: Re: 77 350 overhaul

The most torque i can get, I have turbo 350 transmission, ex diesel car no
emissions, limited budget, What do you recommend?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 21:31:02 EST
From: HCarn@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1970 cutlass supreme SX

Try the Oldsmobile Clubs of America or www.442.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 21:33:47 EST
From: HCarn@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1970 cutlass supreme SX

Hey Guys I have got a 81 Cutlass Suprme LX  I was gave a 260 V8 or 4.3 liter
can anyone give me some tips on where to get some parts for it and how I
should or what bore should get done.  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 20:48:28 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Top Boot 4sale

I have a top boot for sale that is from a 72 442 convertible. It is saddle
brown in color and has no rips or tears in it. The tuck strip is all there
and the 4 buttons also. It is not a show top boot but is a good buy if you
don't have one or your top boot is ripped and don't want to buy a new one
for $100.00. My asking price is $40.00. 
E-Mail Privately

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 20:51:30 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: 72 A/C setup 4sale

I have a complete A/C setup for sale from a 72 442. It contains the a/c
condenser,evaporator core,compressor,POA suction throttling valve,heater
control valve,expansion valve and vacuum tank. All was working when taken
off of the car. Asking $340.00 for all or can separate items. 
E-Mail privately


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 20:52:06 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Preserving the Build Sheet (Was Re: Found build sheet...)

Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Andrew C. Green <acg_o@hotmail.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Preserving the Build Sheet (Was Re: Found build sheet...)
> Date: Thursday, November 05, 1998 9:32 AM
> 
> > I put the original between two sheets of plastic such that a student
> > might use for an essay cover.  I found some that have a one way in
> > slot and holes for a ring binder notebook.  And there they reside,
> > visible, but not in any peril.
> 
> Be careful. Depending on the type of plastic used, they may be harmed.
> I checked with one of my customers just now, Scott Publishing, who do
> stamp collecting catalogs and related merchandise, on how to preserve
> the old paper of a Build Sheet and whether plastic covers are as risky
> as laminating, and here's what they say:
> 
> > Yes, you are correct in your assessment. The risk is the same. 
> >
> > Report covers are not intended for long term storage of
> > irreplaceable documents. The plastic can contain harmful PVC
> > and other softeners. He needs archival quality storage with
> > acetate pockets.
> >
> > You can feel free to point anyone to our product information
> > on our website. I would recommend something like the stock
> > sheets, stock pages or stock books (click on Stock Sheets
> > under the Miscellaneous heading).
> >
> > The selection would be based on size of the original document.
> > The difference between stock sheets and stock pages is in the
> > manufacturer and the material used to manufacture the product.
> > Vario Stocksheets are PVC-free plastic, while Hagner or Prinz
> > stock pages are archival-type cardboard. 
> >
> > I hope that helps.
> 
> Andy here again. That may sound a little sales-pitchy but I asked
> them for the info, they're not trying to sell me. The URL is 
> http://www.scottonline.com/Products.htm
> 
> Disclaimer: No connection to Scott Publishing except that I support
> their publication software (and subscribe to Cars & Parts, their
> sister publication :-).
> 
> -- Andy
> 
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 20:47:02 -0600
From: Robert Bishop <rbishop@iamerica.net>
Subject: Re: 1970 cutlass supreme SX

>> From: Bill <cosyc@usa.net>
>> To: wmachine@en.com
>> Subject: 1970 cutlass supreme SX
>> Date: Sunday, December 20, 1998 12:59 PM
   I have 1970 Cutlass Suprem
>> SX, which I purchased in Texas. I having trouble finding the production
>> figures for it. Can you help?
>>
>> Regards
>> 
>> Bill

Production for the 70 SX was 7,197

Hope this helps

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 20:55:42 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: 455 valve springs/Mondello4sale

I have a set (16) valve springs for sale. They are Mondello part#SK-247-SP.
130lbs at .530" lift
320lbs open pressure. They have less than 2000 miles on them. Asking rpice
of $65.00. New ones go for $150.00. These are for shallow heads A B C.
E-Mail privately

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 19:49:36 -0700
From: "Michael Maxwell" <michael@maxwell.cnchost.com>
Subject: Still looking for cowl tag codes!

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Anyone out there have cowl tag codes for 1972?
You know, paint #'s, trim, body. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Anyone out there have cowl tag codes =
for=20
1972?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>You know, paint #'s, trim, body. Any =
help would=20
be greatly appreciated.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 21:48:37 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Paint Color:Wet-Sanding/Buffing?

In a message dated 12/20/98 5:25:41 PM Central Standard Time,
PETTRIX@prodigy.net writes:

<< We took another piece that was painted wiht the original gallon and they
 analyzed it with the computer and it acme back to the same paint we had
 bought originally. So why does the new quart seem to be lighter?? THey even
 mixed us up a new quart again and it still came out a little lighter when
 sprayed on the ca >>


I have had similar exsperiences while painting my wifes 66 Mustang...except we
have different shades from the EXACT SAME MIX! The parts that I shot are a
little deeper in color than the parts that she shot. Mine are glossier too,
which makes me think that the amount of thickness and speed at which I moved
the gun affected the shade of the final dry-out....ever so slightly. I have
several friends that paint on a more professional basis and they say that some
metallics, pearls, and reds are sensitive to line pressure and ambient
temperatures. I recently painted my 65 Cutlass in Turquoise Poly and a few
months later I bought a set of 442 side scoops that needed painting to match.
I went to the local paint supply, had them look up the color, mix it in a
arosol can(for simplicity), and when I painted the scoops they came out a very
slight shade lighter. 

Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 20:59:21 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 77 350 overhaul

Since your doing the commute thing I wouldn't go any lower (numerically
higher) than 3.43's for the gears.  Probably have 2.73's with an open 
carrier stock.  If you had an O/D you could get away with lower gears.
On to the motor.  

If you have 3A heads then they have the 75 cc heads.  Earlier 350's had
64cc heads but swapping these heads on would only bump the CR to
something like 8.8.  I would shoot for at least 9.0:1 and the easiest way
(most econimical) to do it would be to keep the 3A's and get a set of 
10.25:1 pistons.  The extra 9cc of head volume would bring it down in
the nieghborhood of .9 so roughly you would be at 9.3:1.  Add in gasket
volume and you would still squeak by at 9.0:1.  If you want a little more
just shave a little off the heads and 9.5:1 should be easy to achieve and
work well on pump gas.  Don't have much experience with the 3A heads
but if you just want  torque they should serve your purpose.  Keeping the
cam sort of mild would keep you from having problems with stock 
valvetrain, converter, etc.  Top it off with a Performer intake and spend
some time learning about Qjets by keeping the original carb.  This is
about the most bucks down approach that will still give you good torque.
You can always add on later but the core is there.  Needless to say I 
kind of glossed over the headwork since that's a completely different 
issue altogether.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme
 
>The most torque i can get, I have turbo 350 transmission, ex diesel car no
>emissions, limited budget, What do you recommend?
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 22:12:42 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: Re: restricted carb racing thoughts

> Mike, & Ken,

On the subjects of Cams,  lobe separation, and try Y vs conventional headers, 
I'm no expert for sure. I did a little digging in the
books Power Secrets by Smokey Unick, and How to build Horsepower, by David 
Vizard. I believe these guys are experts, although the
testing they do is no doubt on the "c" engine. Here's what they say;

Cam C/L
- - Unick-
"An engine that has a smaller lobe separation angle will generally have better 
breathing characteristics at higher rpm, and typically
this results in more top end horsepower and a loss of low rpm torque. An 
engine with a wider lobe separation angle will have better low
rpm breathing characteristics, and this will result in more low end torque"

- -Vizard-
pretty much echoes Unick, but adds;
"when maximum horsepower is the prime consideration, a typical cam for a big 
bore, short stroke engine will have a lobe center angle of
105 to 110 degrees. For a long stroke, large displacement engine , the optimum 
L/C angle may be as tight as 95 degrees"
- -
I have a current Comp Cams catalogue, and some of the newer "high intensity" 
grinds are very short on the seat[to prevent reversion],
but have allot more duration at .050", and even more at .200" than older 
designs of similar seat duration. They will custom grind any
lobe, and C/L  you wish.
 Dave Smith has many grinds available too,  but I'm not sure who does his cam 
grinding, and if they have  the latest "fast ramp"
technology or not.
 You may need to have a custom grind, as i assume you are restricted to stock 
rockers. If so i agree with Mike, in that you might want
to limit the lift a bit to help rocker life.

BTW I used an off the shelf Erson grind once that was 235/240 @.050 and only 
.500"/.510".[110 L/C i think]. Regardless of the brand,
most on the shelf grinds for the Olds will have a much higher lift at that 
duration. It was a stock rocker 461" Olds that had true
10.4-1 compression[+.060 396 chev pistons]. I chose this cam because it had 
enough duration to bleed off some cylinder pressure at low
rpm and midrange[ to try to get away with pumpgas], and I hoped the relatively 
low lift would let the stock rockers live.
- -

Headers;
 -Unick-
Doesn't mention the tri Y design
- -Vizard-
"the insensitivity to length is the main reason tri Y headers work as well as 
they do.....tests that I have run show that they generally
produced only slightly less power than a good 4 into 1 header, especially when 
used with cam durations of under 260-270
degrees[advertised]. However, when even the best tri Ys were used with cam 
durations of over 270 degrees[adv] they produced
substantially less peak power than good 4 into 1 headers"

Dave Brode
64 Cutlass

>
>
> Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 03:32:13 -0600
> From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
> Subject: Re: Restricted Racing Engine (long)
>
>
> >2) Speaking of torque and low RPM's, the track is fairly low banked to
> almost
> >flat.  There's a lot of change in engine speed during one lap of the track,
> so
> >we need to get the power down low.  Any ideas about rough cam profiles
> >(approximate numbers)?
>
> Don't consider myself a cam expert, but widening the lobe centers
> could prove benificial, while anything closer than 110 would start
> bleeding compression.  Since this is a race car with race fuel you
> should take full advantage of CR and avoid bleeding any off.  I would
> favor long duration over high lift.  240@.050 and .470 sound like good
> numbers to me but as I said I'm not an expert..
>
> It's late and my head hurts now.  Hope this was helpful and taken with a
> grain of salt.  Of all my input I think the tri-y headers are the most
> promising
> to investigate if class legal.
>
> Mike B
> mbloomer@gateway.net
> ICQ# 19113713
> 72 Cutlass S (RIP)
> 68 Cutlass Supreme
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 22:18:35 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1970 cutlass supreme SX (where are the 73 figures)

Where do they find this info out on produtction #s of Specialty vehicles if
Olds Historic Society does not have records prior to 74.I know the #s are all
out there as to 442s and W30s that I own. So why cant they find out how many
73 Cutlass S 455/4spds were made when the 5th digit in the vin , which is a
"V" tells you that this is the 455 high performance engine that was only
available with a 4 spd manual trans in 73, and the model # is right there in
the beginning of the VIN. It would seem that this year with all the info in
the VIN would be very easy to figure compared to the #s they have on the 60s
and 70s Olds'.   Help!! I cant own the only Cutlass S with this High
performance engine and 4spd. Thanks, Harry from NJ
                                                            73 Olds Cutlass S
455/4spd 8,920 miles

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 23:12:50 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: This guy's looking for advice; '72 Cutlass conv.

Just picked this up in the newsgroups. Should perk some interest.

E-mail them direct, please.

>Have opportunity to buy '72 cutlass convertible. Viking blue/white
>interior. Original paint car, paint not in good shape but body beneath
>is good. Matching #s 350 4bbl, a/t on console. Interior dirty but
>complete without rips. PW, PT, no a/c.  Rallye wheels color coded to
>car. Solid trunk and floors.  Decent but not great top, white.  Low
>miles - around 40k.
>
>What is a realistic price, what is overpaying, what is the "thievery"
>price? 
>
>Thanks.
>bird@javanet.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 23:12:26 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Early Christmas Present

I got an early present today -- the NAPA '49 Olds stock car in 1/25 scale.
It's not too shabby, trunk and hood open.

Also heard that the '80 (really 77) Olds stock car is all but gone, so if you
see one, better get it.  Wish I had one, or two.  If I had two I'd repaint one
to match my first stock car.  Oh well..............

Happy Holidays, and Take Care!
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 23:29:35 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Buick engines

I can't speak much about the Buick (B-word) 350, but I have the 231 in the
Starfire right now, and I can't wait to get it out!  It has just over 30,000
miles on it and at cruise around 3000 RPM the oil pressure will dip lower than
30 PSI and doesn't stay up lie my Olds engines did.  I was told that this is a
common occurance in B-word engines by someone that has a lot of knowledge in
their engines, he's currently building a 350 B-word for a H07 body style
Skyhawk.  It has to do with the front cam bearing and some oil galleries
getting clogged in the cam area that kills the oil pressure and eventually the
engine.  Since the oil pump, distributor and cam are all interconnected at the
front of the engine, the front cam bearing gets a lot more load than the other
GM engines (Olds, Chevy, Pontiac) with Caddies the only other one with the
front distributoe setup.

Perhaps this is why the oil burning problem is so prevalent in the
Buicks...............

Just a thought, Take Care all and Happy Holidays!

Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 22:37:54 -0600 (CST)
From: BHRTEXAS@webtv.net (Brenda Rogers)
Subject: 88 OLD'S

I HAVE WRITTEN AND RECORDED A SONG TITLED:"88 OLDS" . IT IS THE ANSWER
TO THE HOTROD LINCOLN. THE LAST VERSE :(WELL THE BOY'S DADDY WHO OWNED
THE LINCOLN,HAS THREW AWAY HIS BOTTLE ,AND QUIT HIS DRINKIN. SAYS HE'S
QUIT,AND HE ALWAYS WILL,CAUSE HE'S TRADIN IT OFF FOR AN OLDSMOBILE!  ANY
ONE INTERESTED CONTACT ME; bhrtexas@webtv.net  HAROLD V. ROGERS

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 23:46:47 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: request for wiring diagram. JASON ADCOCK?

Someone's looking for a wiring diagram for an 81 Regal, I'd imagine it's
about the saem for an 81 Cutlass.  If anyone knows a computer source for
this info, please let me know, or forward the information along to Mark
Janis [scarebird@worldnet.att.net].  Thanks y'all.

Merry Christmas.

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass


Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 21:53:57 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: request for wiring diagram. JASON ADCOCK?

> Someone's looking for a wiring diagram for an 81 Regal,

Any specific areas of a diagram?  
- -- 

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 20 Dec 1998 22:51:44 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: This guy's looking for advice; '72 Cutlass conv.

What would be a good price for a car in that shape?  
I was thinking somewhere in the nieghborhood of 
$2500 since it's not a 442 but I have been known to
be cheap.  

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>Just picked this up in the newsgroups. Should perk some interest.
>
>E-mail them direct, please.
>
>>Have opportunity to buy '72 cutlass convertible. Viking blue/white
>>interior. Original paint car, paint not in good shape but body beneath
>>is good. Matching #s 350 4bbl, a/t on console. Interior dirty but
>>complete without rips. PW, PT, no a/c.  Rallye wheels color coded to
>>car. Solid trunk and floors.  Decent but not great top, white.  Low
>>miles - around 40k.
>>
>>What is a realistic price, what is overpaying, what is the "thievery"
>>price? 
>>
>>Thanks.
>>bird@javanet.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 00:01:54 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: Buick engines

Buicks have the distributier up front? Ok, im dumb
Kelly
1966 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 00:06:23 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: 1954 Oldsmobile Super "Rocket" 88 for Sale

1954 Super 88
First Year of the 324ci engine
4bbl, 185hp version (the most powerful one...)
2 tone, yellow with green top
4 door
Power breaks
100k miles, never been rebuilt
Needs paint, minor rust but in ok shape
Looks good, gets looks on the road
Located in Seattle, Washington
Shouldn't become a parts car, because it needs so little!

Kelly Erickson
1966 Cutlass
1954 Super 88 (shes 4 sale!)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 00:09:25 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: request for wiring diagram. JASON ADCOCK?

oldsmagnet!
I guess it's underhood stuff and all.  He needs it to put a 472 Cad in a
Regal. cool.  Olds-free, but still kida cool at least.

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

> -----Original Message-----
>
>
> > Someone's looking for a wiring diagram for an 81 Regal,
>
> Any specific areas of a diagram?
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 00:11:39 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Olds and F-Bodies

I would like a copy of that.

Have a Happy and Safe Holiday Season!
- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom
ICQ# 5209322
mailto:gjcouse@CC-IROC-SS.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
Send Project Questions To:
mailto:info@CC-IROC-SS.com



Olds never officially considered an F body.  A friend of mine who is a
commercial illustrator Bill Mitchell fan and Toronado chapter member did
sketch a Olds F body.  I'll see if anyone I know can scan in the pics.  Have
always hated F bodies, but this one is pretty sharp!
Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 21 Dec 1998 00:09:27 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Merry Christmas

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From: JSLstrat@aol.com
Return-path: <JSLstrat@aol.com>
To: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: seattle
Date: Fri, 18 Dec 1998 22:59:12 EST
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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1678
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