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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1654


oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, December 9 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1654



67 Cutlass Info Needed
RE: Alternator still high
Re: 5.0 Mustang Vs. 455
Re: brakes H*LP on 70 Cutlass
Re: 5.0 Mustang Vs. 455
Re: Tire Recommendation
Re: 5.0 Mustang Vs. 455
Re: 455 update, Hey Karl!
Why Vacuum Secondaries Was: Holley 650 on 330
Re: Pearl White/White
oil leak, help
tilt column/strato buckets
Re: 67 Cutlass Info Needed
Re: 67 Cutlass Info Needed
Re: 5.0 Mustang Vs. 455
Re: 67 Cutlass Info Needed
Re: oil leak, help
Re: oil leak, help
Re: Alternator still high
RE: oil leak, help
Re: Non-Olds: Scary Sight!
Re: anyone have 17'' on a 72 olds yet??
Re: Alternator still high
Re: Non-Olds: Scary Sight!
Re: 5.0 Mustang Vs. 455
Re: oil leak, help
86 442 FS
Re: Holley 650 on a 330
Re: Non Olds but may save money!
Re: Tire Recommendation
Re: Non-Olds: Scary Sight!
Re: oil leak, help
Re: 86 442 FS
In need of:
ADV
heads up display
Re: In need of:
Re: anyone have 17'' on a 72 olds yet??
Re: 86 442 FS
Re: In need of:
Re 5.0 Mustang vs 455
Re: Re 5.0 Mustang vs 455
Re: Mr. 57 Olds? J-2 bolts? was: The J-2 intake
Olds EFI
Re: Holley 650 on a 330
Olds Vrs. 305 Pontiac....
Re: Bumpers {Marking for ID}
Re: [Fwd: Lic Plate Resto
Re: In need of:

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 13:27:52 -0800
From: Roy Rutz <ROYR@cdpr.ca.gov>
Subject: 67 Cutlass Info Needed

I have a 67 Cutlass Supreme 2 door post.  It has the Turnpike Cruiser
(400/2V) engine option and automatic.    It is white with a black vinyl top
and black interior (cloth and vinyl).  It has a bench front seat W/O center
armrest.  I have a challenge for the wizards on the list.

I took the following info. off the cowl ID plate.  I did it last night by
flashlight so there could be errors.  The car is complete but may not have
the correct front seat for a supreme. 

O7A
67-33607          BF01674 BODY
TR 920                  C2       PAINT
BCO    B90           C08
J22936                 040711

I know that this all means something.  I am interested in restoring so that
equipment matches the numbers.  Particularly, does the trim code (920?)
include indication of what kind of front seat it should have?  I have some
other questions but this will do for a start. 

I would sure appreciate any help.  Thanks
royr 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 15:43:36 -0600 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: Alternator still high

Find out why, regulator bad?  Bad wire to the regulator so it thinks it sees
9 volts, cranks it up to 15 just so it can see 12?  

Yes, you will boil the electrolyte out of it, so keep it below 15 at the
most, and that for a short time.

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 15:46:10 -0600 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: 5.0 Mustang Vs. 455

Depends on who gets traction first??

My 455 Pontiac in my 80 Turbo Trans AM (4030 lbs!) would match them 0-60,
and from 60 on was no contest.  I left em.  Torque, 3.08 gears, THM350,
shift at 5200, (95 mph 2-3 upshift).

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 16:42:26 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: brakes H*LP on 70 Cutlass

Try using a brake tool to tighten the star wheel inside the rear wheels. Get
them tight enough til they barely start to rub, then back off slightly. I
guarantee your pedal will come up an inch or so.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv. (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 15:48:17 -0600 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: 5.0 Mustang Vs. 455

They are rare, but I did see a 77 301 Pontiac with 302 Pontiac badges,
factory.  VERY rare.  

The 302 Ch#vy was 4.003 bore and 3.002 stroke.

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 10 Dec 1998 06:25:03 +1100 (EST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Tire Recommendation

- ---barbw@uswest.net wrote:
>
> Hi Everyone!
> 
> Im in the market for new tires - those bearing the raised white
> letters.  Goodrich (TA Radials) is one brand that comes to mind.  What
> are some other brands you've used and been happy with?  I had 2 sets
of
> TA Radials (whitewalls) on my car from 1983 to 1989. 

- ----------------------------------------

Barb,

I have BF Goodrich Radial TA's with the white raised letters on my
Olds. Although I have only had them for about 5 months, I am really
impressed. They hook up quite well and don't have a tire squirm like
my old tires did. 

Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 16:51:24 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: 5.0 Mustang Vs. 455

In a message dated 12/9/98 1:14:21 PM Eastern Standard Time, igor455@home.com
writes:

<< I have a question for those of you who have driven/raced late '80s and
early
 90's 5.0 Mustangs.  How fast are they.  >>

i have a '78 cutlass with a '72 olds 350.  its pretty much totally the
edelbrock performer package cam and intake.  mustangs dont pose much of a
threat most times, but i had a '96 or so cobra keeping up to 70mph.  i have a
2004r tranny with 3.73 gears, msd ignition, headers, and 2.5" flowmasters.  if
you build a decent 455 and put some good gears behind it i dont see you having
any problems with the stangs.  might want to watch out for the 6 speed
camaros, tho.  (havent raced one of these yet, but if you want i can get back
to ya when i do)  have fun playing with the fords, but try to keep it under
100 or so, i wouldnt want to hear about an oldsmobiler having a boo-boo.
jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 16:46:06 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 update, Hey Karl!

In a message dated 98-12-09 15:16:06 EST, you write:

<<   I just don't want to end up with a slightly off-center bearing ala Mr.
Wyatt. >>

Only recently was I made to unnerstand about the pilot bearing hole.

Not had major machining done, sorry, cannot help.

perhaps C.B.W.?

No...not on the list...

I allus suggest finding someone who KNOWS Olds per Jim Chermac horror story.

How does an off-center (hole afffect driveability).. nevermind....trouble is
bolting up..

Good luck

K

(tonite is gonna suck...)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 16:02:01 -0600
From: "Dave Rench" <renchd@krause.com>
Subject: Why Vacuum Secondaries Was: Holley 650 on 330

My reasoning for vacuum secondaries on a 750 CFM carb on a small block is
that vacuum secondaries tend to be more forgiving of overcarburation. 
Assuming proper spring tension in the vacuum diaphragm the motor will not
receive air from the secondaries until needed.  You could potentially lose
a little responsiveness off the line compared to a 600 because the
primaries are larger.

A double pumper is wonderful in the right situations.  Sized properly,
proper gears, proper converter etc.  Response is great if your motor can
get up the RPM range that it creates a proper signal by the time the
accelerator pump shot is used.  That's why you see them used so much in
drag racing and in "hot" street cars. But if you try a 750 double pumper on
a stockish 350 with stock converter and gears in the 2.73-3.08 range your
response won't be too great.  A 750 vacuum secondary in the same
application will be theoretically overcarburated, but will be much more
responsive.

Just one man's opinion and I'm sure that others have used double pumpers in
many applications that I wouldn't consider and have had good results.

Dave Rench
1970 W-31

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 17:23:41 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Pearl White/White

The 72 white was brighter than the pearl white.  Also, in 71, they used
a "fake pigskin" material on the door panels and seats.  Weird looking
stuff.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 17:26:08 -0500
From: "Kevin Grover" <Atvman@rochester.rr.com>
Subject: oil leak, help

I have a 68 350,  I have a oil leak from what seams like the front and rear
of the oil pan.  The starter motor is wet, and so is the bottom of the pan.
I just changed the oil pan gasket, it is possible that I did it wrong.  Any
help as to any hidden holes for sensors would be great, or maybe just some
directions on the proper way to install a oil pan gasket.  Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 16:32:23 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: tilt column/strato buckets

I am also looking for a tilt column for a '67 Cutlass, preferably black
and for a floor shifter.
Also looking for '67 Cutlass Strato (with headrest) bucket seats.
I'm located in central Nebraska.

Thanks

Shane Gibreal

'67 Cutlass convertible
'67 Cutlass Supreme drag car

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 17:33:36 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass Info Needed

Roy and All

        Code 920 denotes a black cloth bench.  I have no break-out of either
having an armrest or not.  And in that the code is for a plain Cutlass, not a
Cutlass Supreme.  Cutlass Supreme w/same seating arrangement should have a 980
code, and that should include an armrest.

Jim C

At 04:27 PM 12/9/98 , you wrote:
>I have a 67 Cutlass Supreme 2 door post.  It has the Turnpike Cruiser
>(400/2V) engine option and automatic.    It is white with a black vinyl top
>and black interior (cloth and vinyl).  It has a bench front seat W/O center
>armrest.  I have a challenge for the wizards on the list.
>
>I took the following info. off the cowl ID plate.  I did it last night by
>flashlight so there could be errors.  The car is complete but may not have
>the correct front seat for a supreme. 
>
>O7A
>67-33607          BF01674 BODY
>TR 920                  C2       PAINT
>BCO    B90           C08
>J22936                 040711
>
>I know that this all means something.  I am interested in restoring so that
>equipment matches the numbers.  Particularly, does the trim code (920?)
>include indication of what kind of front seat it should have?  I have some
>other questions but this will do for a start. 
>
>I would sure appreciate any help.  Thanks
>royr 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 18:37:34 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass Info Needed

On Wed, 9 Dec 1998, Roy Rutz wrote:
> O7A

Built 1st week of July, 1967

> 67-33607          BF01674 BODY

Could this be "33807"? My chart doesn't list a model 33607. A 33807 would
jibe with what you have. BF means it was built in Fremont, Ca. 01674 is
the body sequence number.

> TR 920                  C2       PAINT

920 is the code for a black cloth & vinyl bench seat in a post coupe
Supreme. C indicates Provincial white paint and I think 2 indicates a
black vinyl roof.

> BCO    B90           C08

These are accessory codes. I think BCO should be B*0 which is bright roof
drip moldings. B90 is bright side window frames. C08 is a vinyl roof.

> J22936                 040711

Not sure of these.

It's not totally clear from the literature but it seems that a hardtop
coupe came with the sport bench (i.e. folding armrest) seat, but post
coupes did not even though it was a Supreme. So maybe you have what you're
supposed to have (and probably pretty rare too).

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 17:49:02 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: 5.0 Mustang Vs. 455

BIGJERMES@aol.com wrote:
> 
> any problems with the stangs.  might want to watch out for the 6 speed
> camaros, tho.  (havent raced one of these yet, but if you want i can get back
> to ya when i do)

Those things aren't that bad either. I had a friend with a 95 Z and his
best was 14.24 before he put it into a telephone pole. Soon as I found
out he was alive, I was pissed at him for wrecking a beautiful car.

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***************************
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 V-8 4 bbl)
1975 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (250 I-6 1 bbl)
1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (350 V-8 2 bbl)
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4 bbl)
*******************************************
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 16:40:40 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass Info Needed

>I have a 67 Cutlass Supreme 2 door post.  It has the Turnpike Cruiser
>(400/2V) engine option and automatic.    It is white with a black vinyl top
>and black interior (cloth and vinyl).  It has a bench front seat W/O center
>armrest.  I have a challenge for the wizards on the list.
>
>I took the following info. off the cowl ID plate.  I did it last night by
>flashlight so there could be errors.  The car is complete but may not have
>the correct front seat for a supreme.
>
>O7A


Time built code first week of July

>67-33607

67 = 1967/ 3=Olds / 36 = Cutlass V8 (should be 38 for Supreme V8) /
07= 2dr Club sedan (post)


>BF01674 BODY


BF= assy plant Baltimore? (if 7th digit of VIN is B then this is right) /
01674=
Fisher Body unit number

>TR 920                  C2       PAINT


920=Cutlass cloth bench (black) / C2=lower-upper body colors but don't know
what colors

>BCO    B90           C08
>J22936                 040711


This part is beyond me.

From these numbers you have a regular Cutlass V8 but it the "36" is
actually a "38" then it's a Supreme V8 (just check to see if the VIN
starts 336 or 338).  Hope this helps

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme


>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 16:50:49 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: oil leak, help

Woo-Hoo, somebody else with the same problem as I (used to) have!  I will
defer advice, however, in lieu of everyone else on the list...also possible
(probable) that gasket installation for '68 350 is different than '84 307,
which is what I did.

At 04:26 PM 12/9/98 , you wrote:
>I have a 68 350,  I have a oil leak from what seams like the front and rear
>of the oil pan.  The starter motor is wet, and so is the bottom of the pan.
>I just changed the oil pan gasket, it is possible that I did it wrong.  Any
>help as to any hidden holes for sensors would be great, or maybe just some
>directions on the proper way to install a oil pan gasket.  Thanks
> 
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 16:52:09 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: oil leak, help

And just as ANOTHER useless bit of noise, does anyone else wonder why his
subject line (with the "H" word) got through?

At 04:26 PM 12/9/98 , you wrote:
>I have a 68 350,  I have a oil leak from what seams like the front and rear
>of the oil pan.  The starter motor is wet, and so is the bottom of the pan.
>I just changed the oil pan gasket, it is possible that I did it wrong.  Any
>help as to any hidden holes for sensors would be great, or maybe just some
>directions on the proper way to install a oil pan gasket.  Thanks
> 
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 16:49:16 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator still high

Don't worry yourself too much about it.  Factory gauges, especially 30+
yr old ones, are not known for thier accuracy.  You want to have at least
14.7 for good charging anyway.  Use a good digital volt meter to accurately
tell what your charging system is putting out and then you can decide
whether to worry or not.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>So, I get in the Starfire after not running it for a few days and now the
>volt gauge shows what I read as 15+ volts. At idle
>
>I'm getting nervous and about the change out the Alt. The battery is new
and
>I don't want to cook it.
>
>Is this conservative or am I worrying unneccessarily?
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 17:51:19 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: oil leak, help

Overtorquing oil pan bolts is a common mistake, same with valve covers.
This will split the new gasket.  I think like 10 ft-lbs is the specific
spec, but basically you just have to make sure you don't gorilla the things.

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo



- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Kevin Grover
Sent: Wednesday, December 09, 1998 5:26 PM
To: Oldsmobile mailing list
Subject: oil leak, help


I have a 68 350,  I have a oil leak from what seams like the front and rear
of the oil pan.  The starter motor is wet, and so is the bottom of the pan.
I just changed the oil pan gasket, it is possible that I did it wrong.  Any
help as to any hidden holes for sensors would be great, or maybe just some
directions on the proper way to install a oil pan gasket.  Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 13:44:34 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Re: Non-Olds: Scary Sight!

You look great.  Did they wake you right before taking the pictures or did
they give you a minute or two to wake up?
I mean, you look excited ;)

I am a little disappointed there was no Olds stuff visible in the background.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 17:02:19 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: anyone have 17'' on a 72 olds yet??

Ran 295/50/15's with 15x7 83 monte carlo steel rims with no problem
except that the center of the tire would wear out first cuz your supposed
to mount these tires on a 8" rim min.  A set of 10.5" slicks on ch*vy rally
rims fit perfect with room to spare.  From my measurement I could fit
'vette 315's on the back with the right rims.  The 295's fit with stock
wheel-
wells and about 1/2 to 1" of the tire above the top of the wheelwell.  One
thing you have to make sure of is that if you don't have good (read poly)
bushings in the rear control arms the rearend will shift up to 1" when
cornering.  I know this cuz you could see where the 295's had contacted
the inside of the wheelwell with the back of the tire.  Didn't hurt anything
but on the drivers side it was enough to bent the lip up where the body and
frame come together.  To really stuff the wheelwells I considered adding a
panhard bar to make sure the rearend didn't shift at all.  BTW did mock
up the 315's in the wheelwells and they cleared everything but couldn't bolt
them on since they were on the 'vette rims.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>im looking to do this upgrade on mine. I want the widest tires i can fit
front
>and back. I am currently running 275/60/15 on the rear which is a big tire
w/
>no problems. And i have alot of space from the inside wall to the frame, so
i
>was thinking of changing the offset of the rim and go w/ 10'' wide rear
rims.
>Thanks for any input by the way the car is lowered and everything must fit
>under wheel wells.
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 14:59:50 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator still high

At 11:19 AM 12/9/98 -0800, you wrote:
>So, I get in the Starfire after not running it for a few days and now the
>volt gauge shows what I read as 15+ volts. At idle
>
>I'm getting nervous and about the change out the Alt. The battery is new and
>I don't want to cook it. 
>
>Is this conservative or am I worrying unneccessarily?

you need 14.5 to charge, so 15 isn't bad.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 15:03:01 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Non-Olds: Scary Sight!

> I was recently informed that I am for sale - or at least, the image
> of my face is. It's a long story as to how it all happened but if
> anyone would like to see what list administration does to a formerly
> handsome guy, go to this URL: 
>
> http://corel.digitalriver.com/cgi-bin/ImageSearch1.exe?Preview=842073

Hmmm. I dunno about this one. Might have some good parts left, but
I'm concerned about the fact that the front end is pretty wrinkled,
the roof is showing signs of acid rain, and the photo shows it
propped up on the passenger's side, apparently to keep the nose from
falling down. Looks pretty high-mileage to me. It might have some 
collectible interest, but you'd definitely need to keep it under a 
tarp if you plan on leaving it outside.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 17:56:24 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: 5.0 Mustang Vs. 455

In a message dated 12/9/98 4:00:49 PM Central Standard Time, BIGJERMES@aol.com
writes:

<< 
 i have a '78 cutlass with a '72 olds 350.  its pretty much totally the
 edelbrock performer package cam and intake.  mustangs dont pose much of a
 threat most times, but i had a '96 or so cobra keeping up to 70mph.  i have a
 2004r tranny with 3.73 gears, msd ignition, headers, and 2.5" flowmasters.
if
 you build a decent 455 and put some good gears behind it i dont see you
having
 any problems with the stangs.  might want to watch out for the 6 speed
 camaros, tho >>


   I Dont know exactly what the rear wheel horsepower differences are from the
LT-1 6-speeds vs. LT-1 4-speed autos are, but I was able to keep within a car
lenght of a 95 Formula 350 w/auto in my fullsize totally stock Lightning...I
must admit that I am barely being takin' in the quarter by Ram-air's and SS's
in my 65 Cutlass. I also have a 65 442, ALL STOCK, and have NO chance against
Mustangs or Camaros...haha

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 15:03:02 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: oil leak, help

At 05:26 PM 12/9/98 -0500, you wrote:
>I have a 68 350,  I have a oil leak from what seams like the front and rear
>of the oil pan.  The starter motor is wet, and so is the bottom of the pan.
>I just changed the oil pan gasket, it is possible that I did it wrong.  Any
>help as to any hidden holes for sensors would be great, or maybe just some
>directions on the proper way to install a oil pan gasket.  Thanks
> 
if it is only on the side with the starter , I'd look at the dipstick tube.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 18:13:15 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: 86 442 FS

You're watching ONN.....

And now, for a report on a 442 for sale.....we go live to Mike Rothe in
Crytal River.  Mike?.....

Thanks Bob....

I saw it today. 173k mile beauty...sorta.

This guy obviously decided at the last minute just to sell the car. 
Says he wants to buy something newer.

He drove the car into work today so I pored over it.

Here's the deal

Asking 2500 (no way)

verified VIN engine code 9, G for year, trunk code W42. Tire pressure
decal calls for 15" wheels. It IS a 442. original paint/stripes, body
surprisingly super straight.  I couldn't tell any signs of door dings,
and the car has NOT been repainted.  The side moulding strips look very
good, for being so old.

NEEDS paint real bad.  T-tops showed evidence of leakage (needs
weatherstrips), both visors showed signs of it too.  Musty smelling
interior.  Seat/door panel material pretty decent, needs carpet, leather
wheel slightly corroded at top, leather looks all crunchy.  Dog hairs in
back seat.  Headliner near passenger side way in the back is coming
loose.  Console is complete, shows it's age though.  Dash is amazingly
in great shape. All gages work, and seem to work properly.  Runs smooth,
and responsive.  Outside, the square perimeter of the hood emblem has
been broken off. The emblem looks REAL weird...the passenger grille is
broken at the mounting points, but there.

WHEELS....gone.  Not there.  Some other kind of wheels are installed. 
Incorrect.  I asked where they went.  They got rusty, so he gave them
away and put these aluminum ones on it.  D'OH!

Original drivetrain with the correct air cleaner.  Leaks at front/rear
seals, and tranny pan gasket.
Original exhaust....amazing....

Runs a bit rich, but starts every time.

Hood, doors, and trunk all close solidly.

NO RUST ON BODY!  Good part.  Some chancor rust spots (you know the
kind, surface 'spots' of rust peppered the rear end and underbody
components.  NO floor/trunk pan or frame rust out at all.  Original
spare donut tire, and t-top bags.

Has the following options

Pwr anttena...don't work.
(mandatory)A/C...works
ps/pb/power seat/pdl/pw...passenger side sorta works
courtesy lights, 
NO posi.
am/fm cassette stereo
passenger remote mirror.
T-tops (lock on passenger top looks like it's broke)
tilt/cruise/int. wipers.
Basically, it's pretty loaded cept for the visor mirror lights, the
posi, and the lamp monitor package.
Here's my assesment. 

This car can definitely use a complete in and out bath.  BAD!  Imagine,
I paid a couple hundred more for my gray 85, and it looked mint compared
to this one.  This guy obviously didn't know what he bought in 86.  Let
his daughter drive it back and forth to college.  Not having the wheels
isn't a horrible thing, but it sorta sucked they weren't there.  Sitting
outside, apparently. Under lots of oak trees.  TONS of leaves in the
trunk seal area (full) and under the wipers.  The last time this car was
spruced up, was...well, maybe never.  And he's had it since new.

I would say this is a $2K car at most.  I have to pass, since this would
be a project.  A lot of effort on cleaning, and some parts replacement
and painting could get this beast in very nice shape.  Get some wheels,
and it's got all the original equipment.  Total cosmetic refurbishment
needed.  But it's a VERY solid car, for the most part.

Unless you want a 442 badly, and don't have a lot of cash, then I'd go
somewhere else.  If you want a project 442 with a great starting base,
this is a very good candidate.  He's going hunting tomorrow and won't be
back til monday.  Input people!  If you're still interested, let me
know.  I will tell you the truth!  Maybe I'm too picky, maybe it's the
fact that both my G-body 442's are in remarkably great shape. I don't
know.  It's just that I was shocked to see a 442 g-body this far faded.

Reporting live from Crystal River, this is
Mike Rothe
Oldsmobile News Network (ONN)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 17:20:26 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Holley 650 on a 330

I'd assume since a vacuum secondary carb will act smaller at low
rpm due to the lag time for the secondaries to open.  This would 
still give good throttle response off idle but good top end CFM.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>> If you
>> were to run up to 6200-6500 a 750 might be a better choice,
>> particularly
>> one with vacuum secondaries.
>>
>
>   Why vacuum secondaries?
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 17:30:57 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Non Olds but may save money!

Found this site a while back.  Very good site, especially the Cop 
Car Registry.  Let me know about some interesting stuff (warned
me about the unmarked KY state trooper I saw last trip, driving an
CRX!?).  

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>Sorry about this list, but since this is a slow day so far, I wanted
>to give you all a site that I got today. So far the information that I
>know of is true. This site may some day save your hide when you are
>racing your Olds on the open highway. (Olds related! ;-)
>
>http://www.speedtrap.com
>
>Del
>
>
>
>
>==
>Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
>rockman20@yahoo.com
>1986 Honda Accord DX
>1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
>1981 John Deer Snowmobile
>197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
>1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
>_________________________________________________________
>DO YOU YAHOO!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 18:04:04 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Tire Recommendation

Barb, 
I've run mostly Radial T/A's and been very pleased.  Used 235/60's
on the front and 295/60's on the back.  Rears never lasted very long
but based on the wear of the fronts I would say they have good wear
ratings (Rears ended up on qtr pnl).  That car had a lot of power and
nothing short of slicks would get it to hook up.  Car had good grip
in the corners and I was pleased with the tradeoff of grip vs wear.
OTOH my new truck with Eagle GA's blew out a sidewall at 2,000
miles and the most they would do was to give me 50% off a $200
tire while still maintaining it wasn't a tire defect  :-(

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>Im in the market for new tires - those bearing the raised white
>letters.  Goodrich (TA Radials) is one brand that comes to mind.  What
>are some other brands you've used and been happy with?  I had 2 sets of
>TA Radials (whitewalls) on my car from 1983 to 1989.  I was told they
>were such good tires and yet I had tread separation in 5 of the 8
>tires.  I thought they were very pricey and was very disappointed with
>the reduced life span I had for such expensive and highly praised
>tires.  Have the TA Radials improved in quality over the years?
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 19:03:31 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Non-Olds: Scary Sight!

AAAAHHHHH!!!  I'm blind.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, December 09, 1998 12:21 PM
Subject: Non-Olds: Scary Sight!


>
>I was recently informed that I am for sale - or at least, the image of my
>face is. It's a long story as to how it all happened but if anyone would
>like to see what list administration does to a formerly handsome guy, go
>to this URL:
>
>http://corel.digitalriver.com/cgi-bin/ImageSearch1.exe?Preview=842073
>
>Don't blame me if it breaks your monitor... ;-)
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 18:12:36 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: oil leak, help

Aside from getting everything very clean, checking the pan for warpage
(lie it upside down on flat surface), and overtorqing (as already mentioned)
you need to make sure the gasket is in the right place.  I like to "glue"
the
gasket to the block with a little 3M weatherstrip adhesive (not a lot, just
to
hold it in place) and only use RTV on the corners where the side pieces
and the end pieces come together.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>I have a 68 350,  I have a oil leak from what seams like the front and rear
>of the oil pan.  The starter motor is wet, and so is the bottom of the pan.
>I just changed the oil pan gasket, it is possible that I did it wrong.  Any
>help as to any hidden holes for sensors would be great, or maybe just some
>directions on the proper way to install a oil pan gasket.  Thanks
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 19:12:38 EST
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Re: 86 442 FS

Hey Mike what are you saying about us people that go hunting????? LOL Thanks
Chris

CHRIS SOMMERVILLE
69 442 SC
70 442 HC

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 19:17:16 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: In need of:

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Hello all, I am in need of a manual steering box for my '75 Cutlass. =
Also, I had someone tell me at the local racing shop that I can replace =
my power brake master cylinder with a manual brake master cylinder, do =
away with the booster, change the brake push rod (shorter) and that's =
all I need to do to convert to manual disk brakes. I was under the =
assumption, that there were other necessary changes as well. Can anyone =
address this issue?

Before the question comes, my cam is too big for power brakes, and I =
want the weight reduction of the manual steering. =20

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hello all, I am in need of a manual =
steering box=20
for my '75 Cutlass. Also, I had someone tell me at the local racing shop =
that I=20
can replace my power brake master cylinder with a manual brake master =
cylinder,=20
do away with the booster, change the brake push rod (shorter) and that's =
all I=20
need to do to convert to manual disk brakes. I was under the assumption, =
that=20
there were other necessary changes as well. Can anyone address this=20
issue?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Before the question comes, my cam is =
too big for=20
power brakes, and I want the weight reduction of the manual =
steering.&nbsp;=20
</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0052_01BE23A8.88A44F20--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 13:01:27
From: <site-submit@usa.net>
Subject: ADV

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 19:47:01 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: heads up display

Hi all, 

Anyone know anything about retrofitting a heads-up display on a mid '80s
Delta 88?  I need to know what parts I may need to get if I am lucky
enough to find one in a junkyard,
TIA
Brian.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 18:48:36 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: In need of:

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable


    Sounds about right on the brakes but don't know if there were=20
    manual boxes made that would fit that chassis.  What I did for
    the brakes was used a setup off of a ch*vy truck that came with
    an Olds diesel.  Used the lines and booster from the truck. =20
    Basically since the diesel doesn't have any vacuum the booster
    is run off of pressure from the power steering.  Worked well as=20
    the car was rarely on the track (4 hour drive).  The wieght savings
    to dump the p/s pump isn't that much, since that's all your doing.
    Another option is an electric vacuum pump which some other=20
    people on the list have used.  Good luck
   =20
    Mike B
    mbloomer@gateway.net
    ICQ# 19113713
    72 Cutlass S (RIP)
    68 Cutlass Supreme
      =20
   =20
    Hello all, I am in need of a manual steering box for my '75 Cutlass. =
Also, I had someone tell me at the local racing shop that I can replace =
my power brake master cylinder with a manual brake master cylinder, do =
away with the booster, change the brake push rod (shorter) and that's =
all I need to do to convert to manual disk brakes. I was under the =
assumption, that there were other necessary changes as well. Can anyone =
address this issue?
    =20
    Before the question comes, my cam is too big for power brakes, and I =
want the weight reduction of the manual steering. =20

- ------=_NextPart_000_00F5_01BE23A4.8772A9C0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT color=3D#000000 =
size=3D3>Sounds about right=20
    on the brakes but don't know if there were </FONT></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT color=3D#000000 =
size=3D3>manual boxes made=20
    that would fit that chassis.&nbsp; What I did =
for</FONT></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D3>the =
brakes was used=20
    a setup off of a ch*vy truck that came with</FONT></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D3>an =
Olds=20
    diesel.&nbsp; Used the lines and booster from the=20
    truck.&nbsp;&nbsp;</FONT></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT color=3D#000000 =
size=3D3>Basically since the=20
    diesel doesn't have any vacuum the booster</FONT></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D3>is =
run off of=20
    pressure from the power steering.&nbsp; Worked well=20
    as&nbsp;</FONT></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D3>the =
car was rarely=20
    on the track (4 hour drive).&nbsp; The wieght =
savings</FONT></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D3>to =
dump the p/s pump=20
    isn't that much, since that's all your doing.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT color=3D#000000 =
size=3D3>Another option is an=20
    electric vacuum pump which some other&nbsp;</FONT></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT color=3D#000000 =
size=3D3>people on the list=20
    have used.&nbsp; Good luck</FONT></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT color=3D#000000=20
    size=3D3></FONT></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D3>Mike =
B<BR><A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:mbloomer@gateway.net">mbloomer@gateway.net</A><BR>ICQ#=20
    19113713<BR>72 Cutlass S (RIP)<BR>68 Cutlass Supreme<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp; =

    </FONT><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hello all, I am in need of a =
manual steering=20
    box for my '75 Cutlass. Also, I had someone tell me at the local =
racing shop=20
    that I can replace my power brake master cylinder with a manual =
brake master=20
    cylinder, do away with the booster, change the brake push rod =
(shorter) and=20
    that's all I need to do to convert to manual disk brakes. I was =
under the=20
    assumption, that there were other necessary changes as well. Can =
anyone=20
    address this issue?</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Before the question comes, my =
cam is too big=20
    for power brakes, and I want the weight reduction of the manual=20
    steering.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_00F5_01BE23A4.8772A9C0--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 15:34:21 -0800 (PST)
From: Dean Schreuder <das1472@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: anyone have 17'' on a 72 olds yet??

Currently I have Centerline 17" Sabers on my '79 Cutlass. I have
17x8's in the rear and 17x7's in the front. They also have the stock
offset of 3 1/2" measured from the back of the rim. The tires I am
using are 245/45-17's in the rear and 225/45-17's in the front. This
set up fit perfect the first time I bolted them on.(because I measured
eveything before I ordered them)I know you want wider than my
245/45-17's, but I hope this gives you an idea of what will work.
By the way, they look great on my Cutlass...I am very happy with the
looks!!! =-)




- ---AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com wrote:
>
> im looking to do this upgrade on mine. I want the widest tires i can
fit front
> and back. I am currently running 275/60/15 on the rear which is a
big tire w/
> no problems. And i have alot of space from the inside wall to the
frame, so i
> was thinking of changing the offset of the rim and go w/ 10'' wide
rear rims.
> Thanks for any input by the way the car is lowered and everything
must fit
> under wheel wells.
> 

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 19:09:23 -0600 
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
Subject: Re: 86 442 FS

Mike wrote:
	
	And now, for a report on a 442 for sale.....we go live to Mike
Rothe in Crytal River.  Mike?.....

	<snip> of Mike's fair assessment of a car that hasn't been
well-cared for...  

	this is a very good candidate.  He's going hunting tomorrow and
won't be back til monday.  

	Another <snip>

	I wouldn't be a bit surprised if he didn't take the 442 on his
hunting trip!  Just use a little rope to tie the dead carcass to the
hood or trunk lid, and away we go...  <G>

	Later,

	Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
	Columbus, MS         1987 442

	http://www.442.com/newman.html                1987 442
	http://www.442.com/newmantape.html         Centennial Tape Info.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 19:50:08 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: In need of:

In a message dated 12/9/98 6:20:36 PM Central Standard Time, comid@jellico.com
writes:

<< Before the question comes, my cam is too big for power brakes, and I want
the weight reduction of the manual steering.  
  >>


   I just finished reading an artical on "free" speed secrets in this months
Hot Rod. They comended the use of drum brakes on cars because of their
inherent weight savings and the fact that they work on a "zero drag" basis.
Collyn
65 cutlass
65 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 19:52:41 -0500
From: "R. Grant" <kgrant442@home.com>
Subject: Re 5.0 Mustang vs 455

In 92 I bought a New Mustang and over the next 3 years I would take it out
almost every weekend to race, out and around Toronto.
It was standard 5.0 w/ 3.08 rear gears.
I never did get the car to the track to see what time it would do in the
1/4, but I know what cars it would beat in a race.
85 Monte Carlo SS About 7 to 10 car lengths
78-89 Z28 & Trans Am, Formula The 80 formula was the hardest of these to
beat.  2 to 4 cars
I raced a 71 442 one night and took him by about 3 cars. He had a bad night.
I raced a 68 Camaro  we split 2 races he had a 350 4 speed.
I raced 2 Vetts 94 & 95 both were LT1's with 6 speeds I lost both races by
about the same .2 sec. If my car had about 5 more hoses I would have won.
So IMHO I would say I was running about even with the vetts almost.
About 13.8 to 14.2 Not bad for a stock Stang (almost)
Note the sedans are quicker.

Kevin Grant
80 Cutlass Sup
Brampton Ont.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 19:13:47 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Re 5.0 Mustang vs 455

>Note the sedans are quicker.
>
As were the LX vs the GT (same motor slightly less weight)

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 20:25:46 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Mr. 57 Olds? J-2 bolts? was: The J-2 intake

Thanks to all!  I think we have all agree that it probably came with studs... 
now
round two of questions...
Does anybody have an exploded view of how the carbs and linkage are set up on 
this
intake? (I'm just curious...)
ANd now that it isn't considered a "Broken" piece - is their anybody out there
that can use/needs this intake - I had traded a Mallory magneto for it at a 
swap
meet because the guy had told me that it was of of a big block olds (Didn't 
know
any better at the time... :-( )
So if there is anybody running a 371...
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a 'glide :-(
'75 Supreme - project car....
'82 Supreme - SB, 700R4, 3.73's - Grin!
'86 Supreme - V-8 - daily driver...

KarlAune@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 98-12-09 12:00:12 EST, you write:
>
> << Well, considering the production problems that would be associated with
>  first casting these studs integrally with the manifold then threading them
>  following casting, I vote for separate thread-in studs (sort of like on
>  every other manifold known to mankind). >>
>
> Why does Karl read this as "Slap!-Slap!-Slap!..."?
>
> Every other intake manifold known to Karl has threaded bolt-holes. A BB
> factory intake manifold (with carb) weighs 70 lbs (give or take a handfull of
> ounces).
>
> Studs rising out from selected places on the J-2 is a new concept.
>
> As the J-2 intake studs turn out to be screw-in, "rebel1" (or whomever, 
cannot
> retrieve that Email) has the option of screwing in high quality studs in the
> places of those that are missing.
>
> And, there are 15 studs on a J-2 intake. Twelve hold three carbs. Two support
> the main unit of the vacc linkage, the last one is for linkage and is to the
> left of rear carb. All other fastening points are bolt holes (most are
> threaded...).
>
> After that beating, the digest looks relaxing....
>
>            :-)}
>
> Karl Aune
> and Soylent Ocean Mist
> 1965 Dynamic 88 Celebrity Sedan
> Members; OCA, IVOC
> KarlAune@aol.com
> http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html
> http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 19:27:46 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Olds EFI

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Well, talked to Edelbrock rep today about putting port EFI
on a Olds.  Guy was THE rep for thier EFI Pro Flo setup.
Said he's been trying to convince the higher ups to develop
a universal kit that would mount (with some minor work)=20
to any V8 motor.  He thinks they may start development=20
along these lines soon.  As it is now you would have to=20
buy thier complete kit ($1800) and modify your own=20
manifold to get it to physically bolt up.  Computer controls
not really an issue and said that he has seen their system
adapted to a lot of pontiacs, chryslers, and fords.  Got
warm fuzzies from this guy that if I should try to do this
swap they would be very willing to help me iron out any
bugs.  Combine this with finding out about the Holley=20
single plane SB Olds intake I am very upbeat about the=20
whole thing.  Figuring on a used intake from a swap meet,
you should be able to do the whole conversion for around
$2K which is a lot better than the only other ones I've seen
offered which ran about $3500.  I remember seeing a=20
post where somebody mentioned that they are running=20
EFI on a big block but can't remember who.  If anyone knows
I have some questions I would like to ask them. =20

Just thought I would share what I found out should anyone
have similar interests.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme


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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Well, talked to Edelbrock rep today about =
putting port=20
EFI</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>on a Olds.&nbsp; Guy was THE rep for thier =
EFI Pro Flo=20
setup.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Said he's been trying to convince the higher =
ups to=20
develop</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>a universal kit that would mount (with some =
minor work)=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>to any V8 motor.&nbsp; He thinks they may =
start=20
development </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>along these lines soon.&nbsp; As it is now =
you would=20
have to </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>buy thier complete kit ($1800) and modify =
your own=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>manifold to get it to physically bolt =
up.&nbsp;=20
Computer controls</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>not really an issue and said that he has seen =
their=20
system</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>adapted to a lot of pontiacs, chryslers, and=20
fords.&nbsp; Got</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>warm fuzzies from this guy that if I should =
try to do=20
this</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>swap they would be very willing to help me =
iron out=20
any</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>bugs.&nbsp; Combine this with finding out =
about the=20
Holley </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>single plane SB Olds intake I am very upbeat =
about the=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>whole thing.&nbsp; Figuring on a used intake =
from a=20
swap meet,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>you should be able to do the whole conversion =
for=20
around</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>$2K which is a lot better than the only other =
ones I've=20
seen</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>offered which ran about $3500.&nbsp; I =
remember seeing=20
a </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>post where somebody mentioned that they are =
running=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>EFI on a big block but can't remember =
who.&nbsp; If=20
anyone knows</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>I have some questions I would like to ask =
them.&nbsp;=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Just thought I would share what I found out =
should=20
anyone</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>have similar interests.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Mike B<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:mbloomer@gateway.net">mbloomer@gateway.net</A><BR>ICQ#=20
19113713<BR>72 Cutlass S (RIP)<BR>68 Cutlass=20
Supreme<BR></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 09 Dec 1998 20:40:45 -0500
From: Bob Dale <bctad5@toolcity.net>
Subject: Re: Holley 650 on a 330

mbloomer wrote:

> I'd assume since a vacuum secondary carb will act smaller at low
> rpm due to the lag time for the secondaries to open.  This would
> still give good throttle response off idle but good top end CFM.
>
> Mike B
> mbloomer@gateway.net
> ICQ# 19113713
> 72 Cutlass S (RIP)
> 68 Cutlass Supreme
>
> >> If you
> >> were to run up to 6200-6500 a 750 might be a better choice,
> >> particularly
> >> one with vacuum secondaries.
> >>
> >
> >   Why vacuum secondaries?
> >
> > I get it. This list is educational. Thanks again guys. B.D.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 20:41:37 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Olds Vrs. 305 Pontiac....

Hello, today, at my lunch break at school, i got a ride with my friend, who
has a 1985 Trans-AM wiht the orignal 305's clock over 275,000miles without a
rebuild. We were at a stop light, and this 1970 442 pulls next to us. Me,
being an Olds fan, told my friend to dump the cluch right before the light. He
did, the tires spun, the 442 did the same, we had a little race going...My
friend let off the gas, and SMOKED the guy to the next light....the guy was
PISSED....He revs the living piss out of the Olds, my friend beat his ass
again....We got the burger king, the guy has a 455, 4bbl, all stock, 2.2:1rear
end or somthing, thats why...But it was still funny, I mean, this is truly a
POS (the transam)...
Kelly Erickson
Visit the Transams webpage at www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z/transam.html 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 20:50:36 EST
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bumpers {Marking for ID}

'Heard good things about Nu-Chrome Corp. in Fall River, MA. 508-324-0002.

Scott

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 20:48:22 EST
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Lic Plate Resto

How 'bout a real narrow foam brush? It may be firm enough to ride along the
top of the numbers without leaving brush marks...  My other thought was one of
those soft rubber rollers about 1.5" wide used on wallpaper seams. You
wouldn't want to use too much paint.

Scott

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 9 Dec 1998 20:58:18 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: In need of:

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It's not the just the pump weight, it's also the Power steering box. The =
power box weighs MUCH more than a manual box (about 30# more). According =
to the books, almost all cars of that vintage 68-77, Nova, Monte, =
Camaro, Firebird even Vega, has the same mounting for the gear boxes. =
The power boxes are even the same part numbers for replacement boxes.
    -----Original Message-----
   =20
   =20
        Sounds about right on the brakes but don't know if there were=20
        manual boxes made that would fit that chassis.  What I did for
        the brakes was used a setup off of a ch*vy truck that came with
        an Olds diesel.  Used the lines and booster from the truck. =20
        Basically since the diesel doesn't have any vacuum the booster
        is run off of pressure from the power steering.  Worked well as=20
        the car was rarely on the track (4 hour drive).  The wieght =
savings
        to dump the p/s pump isn't that much, since that's all your =
doing.
        Another option is an electric vacuum pump which some other=20
        people on the list have used.  Good luck
       =20
        Mike B
        mbloomer@gateway.net
        ICQ# 19113713
        72 Cutlass S (RIP)
        68 Cutlass Supreme
          =20
       =20
        Hello all, I am in need of a manual steering box for my '75 =
Cutlass. Also, I had someone tell me at the local racing shop that I can =
replace my power brake master cylinder with a manual brake master =
cylinder, do away with the booster, change the brake push rod (shorter) =
and that's all I need to do to convert to manual disk brakes. I was =
under the assumption, that there were other necessary changes as well. =
Can anyone address this issue?
        =20
        Before the question comes, my cam is too big for power brakes, =
and I want the weight reduction of the manual steering. =20
   =20


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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>It's not the just the pump weight, =
it's also the=20
Power steering box. The power box weighs MUCH more than a manual box =
(about 30#=20
more). According to the books, almost all cars of that vintage 68-77, =
Nova,=20
Monte, Camaro, Firebird even Vega, has the same mounting for the gear =
boxes. The=20
power boxes are even the same part numbers for replacement =
boxes.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original=20
    Message-----</B><BR></FONT><BR><BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Sounds about =
right on=20
    the brakes but don't know if there were <BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
manual boxes=20
    made that would fit that chassis.&nbsp; What I did =
for<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
    the brakes was used a setup off of a ch*vy truck that came=20
    with<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; an Olds diesel.&nbsp; Used the lines and =
booster=20
    from the truck.&nbsp; <BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Basically since the =
diesel=20
    doesn't have any vacuum the booster<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; is run off =
of=20
    pressure from the power steering.&nbsp; Worked well as=20
    <BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; the car was rarely on the track (4 hour =
drive).&nbsp;=20
    The wieght savings<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; to dump the p/s pump isn't =
that=20
    much, since that's all your doing.<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Another =
option is=20
    an electric vacuum pump which some other <BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
people on=20
    the list have used.&nbsp; Good luck<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
    <BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Mike B<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:mbloomer@gateway.net">mbloomer@gateway.net</A><BR>&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;=20
    ICQ# 19113713<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 72 Cutlass S =
(RIP)<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
    68 Cutlass Supreme<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
    <BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Hello all, I am in =
need of a=20
    manual steering box for my '75 Cutlass. Also, I had someone tell me =
at the=20
    local racing shop that I can replace my power brake master cylinder =
with a=20
    manual brake master cylinder, do away with the booster, change the =
brake=20
    push rod (shorter) and that's all I need to do to convert to manual =
disk=20
    brakes. I was under the assumption, that there were other necessary =
changes=20
    as well. Can anyone address this issue?<BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
    <BR>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Before the question comes, my cam is too big =
for=20
    power brakes, and I want the weight reduction of the manual =
steering.&nbsp;=20
    <BR><BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1654
*********************************

