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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1621


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, November 23 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1621



Re: yet another carb question
Re: Why do you hate "C" cars?
RE: Bye.
Re: Bondo:Friend or Foe?
perfect exhaust manifolds
RE: Igor 20
RE: '73-'77 Cutlass Specs
Re: another carb question
Re: another carb question
Re: Bye.
Chev in olds
This is it...
Re: Nitrous & 455 (long)
Re: Headders
Re: 455 Buildup
RE: I need TH400 long/short question
RE: MATT 88 Cutlass Supreme Int
Re: This is it...
F/S  1961 Starfire
Rear End checkout Q's
'83 Delta Ralleye Pak & Interior Question
455 blocks and TH-400 trannys
Re: another carb question
Re: 455 blocks and TH-400 trannys
Re: Stick shift "W" body
Re: Signing off
Re: wont turn off (DIFFERENT)
Re: Why do you hate 
Re: Why do you hate 
Bashing on the List
Hey noslo67!!
Re: rear geometry
Re: Why do you hate "C" cars?
Need to sell some Lincolns so I can buy some Olds parts
rear suspension
Re: Why do you hate "C" cars?
Re: Nitrous & 455
Re: yet another carb question
Re: Bondo:Friend or Foe?
1981 Cutlass Supreme Brougham for SALE
Re: wont turn off (DIFFERENT)
Re: Chev in olds
Re: Chev in olds
Re: Bashing on the List
Re: Nitrous & 455
70 Cutlass SX
Re: Why do you hate "C" cars?
Re: Nitrous & 455
Dynomax Turbo Muffler Dual Exhaust
Re: Bashing on the List
Re: car wont turn off
Need: Vinyl top moulding -72Cutlass Supreme

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 17:37:40 -0200
From: BRIAN SHANKLE <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: yet another carb question

I don't think this car has a dual catalyst.  It appears to be just a
standard cat, with the tube out the side running up to the air pump, and
it is the only one under there.  It is old enough to have the heat
shield rusting away from the top of it, but then again this is New
Jersey.
Brian


Bob Blanchard wrote:
> 
> At 10:57 PM 11/22/98 -0200, you wrote:
> >Wheew!  I have decided to use a replacement Q-jet, especially after all
> >of that!  Your mentioning Open and closed loop piques my curiosity,
> >mostly because I don't understand the terminology.  The only trouble
> >code I get is 45, which Chilton says occurs only after the engine has
> >been running in closed loop for five minutes.  I haven't seen any
> >reccommended causes/fixes for this in the book.  Any ideas, other tha
> >the carb?  I ask because I am really tired of thinking about that thing,
> >probably as much as everyone is tired of hearing about it.
> >thank you,
> >Brian.
> >
> closed loop means that that there is a closed circuit (computer
> sensor and wiring) open loop means that the ECM is ignoring a sensor.
> 
> "45" means rich exhaust (as picked up bye the oxy sensor)
> check for fuel in you evaporative system and try cleaning or replacing
> the oxy sensor.
>    Does this car have a dual catalist catalitic convertor?
> 
> (these have a reducing catalist and a oxydizing catalist. these devices
> get honorable mention in the "Pile do-dad on top of gadget in a atempt
> to make a poorly concieved idea to work" method of emission controls)
> 
>   On these cars the air pump pumps air into the head (air tubes) during
> warm-up and into the converor during warm running. During warm-up the
> oxy sensor is in open loop and not operating (so it isn't reading the extra
> air in the exhaust) when the engine is warm the oxy sensor comes on line
> and the air pump pumps air into the convertor. If the pump doesn't switch
> over, the oxy sensor sensor tells the ECM that the engine is lean, when is
> isn't, now the M/C solenoid (remember the M/C solenoid?) enriches the
> mixture. This extra rich exhaust can coat the oxy sensor and cause it to 
fail.
> 
> so, check the oxy sensor and if it is crudded up look at the air pump.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 14:23:41 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Why do you hate "C" cars?

I have to add my 2 cents here. I find it so funny how people can adore
an Olds but hate a Chevy. THEY ARE ALL GENERAL MOTORS!!!! Same
company, same parts, just a little difference in styling and they way
they do things! So, the next time some of you want to knock down a
Chevy, let me just remind you that you are really kicking yourself in
the rear and knocking down your Olds at the same time! Just my 2 bits!

Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 17:42:45 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Bye.

<Snip>

Not talking about anything but Oldsmobiles is fine for a Olds
mailing list, but to say that all others are inferior?? I
really appriciate all of you who welcomed me, but if this is the
way Olds owners feel, I don't want to be associated with it in
any way. When I get out of on my own, screw the 442, I'll take
a Bow Tie.
   -Doug

<GJC>
Doug;

You misunderstood my context, or rather I should have stated it clearer. For
the most part Olds engines are beefier in that there is a higher nickel
content, (Is that right guys, nickel?), in the metal used to cast the
engines. In other words a superior "stronger" engine structurally than the
other makes. I apologies for not being clearer about the engine in general
FACT.


- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
Rt-1, Box-615
Bailey Road
Purling, N.Y.
12470-9029

(518) 622-0376
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

ICQ# 5209322 = "CC-IROC-SS"
Personal ICQ Communication Center:
http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322

Custom Conversion Proto-type:
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Soon to be: www.CC-IROC-SS.com

The CC-IROC-SS Project Delphi Forum:
http://forums.delphi.com/m/main.asp?sigdir=CC_IROC_SS
G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 16:48:43 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
Subject: Re: Bondo:Friend or Foe?

well to add my 2 cents to this thread I use USC (united states chemical) all
metal it is a polyester filler with aluminum added to it it is water proof
no absorption never had any problems with it...KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: David Brown <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
To: olds mail list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, November 23, 1998 1:33 PM
Subject: Re: Bondo:Friend or Foe?


>There are many different brands of "bondo" out there, including the one
>with the brand name Bondo.
>
>I've been told the amount of moisture they attrach is proportional to
>the amount of talc they contain. One that was recommended to me is
>Napa's Martin Senior's Micro-Lite body filler. I've used this stuff a
>lot, and it's pretty decent. It holds very well - whether a little
>thicker than should be applied, and to patch panels fastened with rivets
>(no welder or funds at the time, and for just a winter driver).
>You might want to take a look into the fillers with metal as well.
>
>One thing to remember: all body fillers will attrach moisture, so don't
>leave the car out, or drive around in the rain! All primers (except
>exotic stuff) don't provide a moisture barrier either.
>
>My 2 US cents.
>--
>David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
>          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
>http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
>Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
>           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 17:58:33 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: perfect exhaust manifolds

 list members,

I know I have read in the past that some of you were looking for a
product to keep your exhaust manifolds looking like new. One that won't
burn off or fade. One that will make old rusty manifolds look like new.
Well my friends I found that product today. Stumbled on it really.
The name of this stuff is Calyx.
It is a paste that comes in a 2.75 oz. container. That is enough to do
3-4 pairs of sb manifolds. A little goes a long way. It can be used on
all bare cast iron parts. Brake drums, master cylinders, blocks.
Although it works best when exposed to high temps. It works on headers
too.
It will not burn and is non-toxic and you can wash it off your hands
with soap and water.
I know this may sound like "snake oil" stuff but i have tested it and it
works. I used a wire brush on an old piece of cast iron pipe.(just to
knock the crud off) I used my fingers to rub some Calyx into the cleaned
part and it looked like new. I then put a propane torch flame on it for
10 minutes.(it was hotter than hell) after cooling down it still looked
new.
The company offers a money-back guarantee.
The price is $16.95 post paid.
If you want some of this stuff or have any questions contact me
privately.

Mark Hahn
75 Delta 88
Cincinnati, Ohio
mahahn@fuse.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 18:08:38 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Igor 20

Hey Igor!  My comment was not sarcastic!  I really do like the logic,
seriously!

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Igor T. '81 DRB 455
Sent: Monday, November 23, 1998 3:34 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Igor 20


>The timing chain went on the 307, so I put in a 455!
>
>Now that's the kind of logic that we should all follow!
>
>Maybe the next time I have to add ATF, I'll just bolt in a six speed.

I just wanted power.  It cost almost the same, so why not.  It takes a lot
to get a big Delta to move.  307 is a great motor, I loved the one in the
Delta and I love the one in my Regency.  However, it just was too small for
a BIG PORKY 88.  How many people around have a nicely painted, dual exhaust,
455 powered '81 Delta.  Totally original car.  If I picked a Cutlass, I may
have been faster and all that, but not nearly as original.  I like
Cutlasses, but too many around here.  I just wanted a unique car.  Plus, the
Delta 88 was the car I learned to drive on and the favorite car I have ever
owned (including all the ones my dad owned.  It is even his favorite car.)
and I HAD it.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/2004r/propane)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 18:31:38 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: '73-'77 Cutlass Specs

<Snip>
Ed Binnix wrote;
That's interesting. I've never weighed my 75 Salon, but the title says 4200
lbs. I think that sounds heavier than the truth, but those bumpers weigh
over 150# each by themselves. What gives? Does my car weigh in at 4200 or
3571? It has A/C and 455/T400. Any help would be appreciated. Weight is an
important factor when doing an engine build up.

<GJC>

Take your car to a recycle center or refuse dump or some truck stops. You
should be able to get the car weighed on the truck scales.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
Rt-1, Box-615
Bailey Road
Purling, N.Y.
12470-9029

(518) 622-0376
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

ICQ# 5209322 = "CC-IROC-SS"
Personal ICQ Communication Center:
http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322

Custom Conversion Proto-type:
CC-IROC-SS-#00001 =  "Quincy"
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Soon to be: www.CC-IROC-SS.com

The CC-IROC-SS Project Delphi Forum:
http://forums.delphi.com/m/main.asp?sigdir=CC_IROC_SS

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 18:42:54 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: another carb question

Brian,
    Alot of people on this list are probably going to tell you to work with
what you have.  I will suggest this as a first option.  You talk about
junkyard carbs, did you rebuild or at least clean them before you installed
them.  If you have your original carb I would get a rebuild kit and follow
the instructions.  I was in this same situation 4 years ago with my Chevy.
The Quadrajet had a divorced choke and didn't work worth a damn.  After a
few months of adjusting I ordered the 4011 Holley with electric choke and
vacuum secondaries.  It worked great until I put in a monster cam at which
point a double pumper was in order.  The 4011 was reliable and the easiest
Holley to adjust.  When ordering simply state the application and they do a
great job of setting one up.  The Holley is a last resort since the
Quadrajet is a pretty good factory carb.

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net

>Hi all,
>I know I have just about beaten this to death, but I am going to try one
>more thing before I just give up and sell the car.  I would like to know
>how much trouble (and the steps I would have to take) to switch my 86
>Cutlass Supreme's 307 (Y) Q-jet to a more credible carburetor.  My
>rebuild attempt ended in a second death for a junkyard carb.  I am not
>interested in high performance for this car, but I am sick of 9-11 mpg
>and that friggin orange check engine light.  Given the behavior of the
>car, and the intense hiss I heard when I got on it against a curb, I am
>going to change the catalytic converter in hopes that it will help and
>keep me from changing the carb.  I could just go to the local Pep Boys
>and get an Edelbrock, but I need to know how to make the conversion and
>even more importantly, what are some of the better, yet less expensive
>carbs that would work on this car?  What CFM is recommended to hold the
>performance about the same, if not maybe a *little* spicier?  Don't want
>too many tickets, ya know.
>Thanks,
>Brian.
>
>------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 18:48:40 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: another carb question

Brian,
    I forgot to recommend a CFM rating for you carb.  No more than 650CFM.
Good Luck.
Jim Brady

>Hi all,
>I know I have just about beaten this to death, but I am going to try one
>more thing before I just give up and sell the car.  I would like to know
>how much trouble (and the steps I would have to take) to switch my 86
>Cutlass Supreme's 307 (Y) Q-jet to a more credible carburetor.  My
>rebuild attempt ended in a second death for a junkyard carb.  I am not
>interested in high performance for this car, but I am sick of 9-11 mpg
>and that friggin orange check engine light.  Given the behavior of the
>car, and the intense hiss I heard when I got on it against a curb, I am
>going to change the catalytic converter in hopes that it will help and
>keep me from changing the carb.  I could just go to the local Pep Boys
>and get an Edelbrock, but I need to know how to make the conversion and
>even more importantly, what are some of the better, yet less expensive
>carbs that would work on this car?  What CFM is recommended to hold the
>performance about the same, if not maybe a *little* spicier?  Don't want
>too many tickets, ya know.
>Thanks,
>Brian.
>
>------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 18:49:01 EST
From: W451973@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bye.

well this is an OLDSMOBILE list, last time i checked. maybe it wasnt so much
chevy bashing as it was our list members wanting to stay with olds. as for
bashing i do believe that on almost any given day you will hear chevy guys
bash the heck out of oldsmobiles more than you will ever hear olds people bash
chevy. most of the time yuoll only hear olds people gripe when some moron puts
a chevy moter in an olds. this does not include factory equiped cars. i dont
believe anyone wanted to hurt the kids feelings, and yes i own something other
than an olds.                                                dennis       98
F150
73 hurstolds
74 cutlass s
77 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 19:12:51 -0500
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Chev in olds

I love to see the expression on there faces when I open my hood , they
cant believe that a grandmas car runs 11.40s and has an olds engine in
it , then they look for  the blue bottle that is not there and walk away
shaking there heads. Man I love my olds
  Butch 68  442  post

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 17:14:43 -0700
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: This is it...

Farewell, my Oldsmohead buddies.  This is it for me, for now.  My company
was bought out by another firm, and the few remaining survivors are being
relocated.  Could be a long time till I can resubscribe, so I just wanted to
say "thanks" to everyone who has helped me over the years.  I've learned a
bunch from this list.  I'm going to miss you all...

Au revoir, mes amis!

Blaine

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 17:13:26 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Nitrous & 455 (long)

Igor,
Not a Nitrous Guru but do have some experience.  Normally you have to
open the bottle valve before you activate the system as the solenoids will
keep the nitrous/fuel from entering the engine until you activate the
system.
I know NOS has an electric bottle valve that you can wire in to remotely
open
the bottle but it's not cheap.  For your engine you want to stay with a low
power system since you have a stock bottom end but you will want to ensure
you have a very good ignition and fuel system before you install any system.
If you don't have a good fuel system the pump won't keep up with the demands
of the motor and the mixture will turn lean and melt your new motor.  The
tricker systems use a fuel pressure switch that will turn off the nitrous
system
if the fuel pressure should fall below a preset level to keep the motor in
one
piece.  The need for a good ignition system comes from the fact that your
going to have a much denser charge in the cyl and therefore when it is
compressed it will take more voltage to fire it.  One of the nicest systems
I have come across is the progressive NOS system that has a TPS sensor
and instead of being full on or full off will give you a gradual curve of
nitrous depending on how far you have the throttle open.  This means that
you can hit the button sooner after launch without wheelspin problems and
you have less possibility of broken parts since the nitrous doesn't "shock"
the car as much when it's engaged.  As far as cost and availability of
refills
that pretty much depends on where you are.  The cheapest way to go is to
check around local speed and race shops to find a local supplier.  If you
can't find anyone that does it you can buy a whole cyl from a commercial
gas dealer (same place where they get argon for welders) and make your
own refill station.  As long as the system is set up right you won't have
any
problem with your motor as long as you don't try to put too much nitrous
through it.  NOS is about the most reputable company out there and they
have kits that have everything you will need.  This takes a lot of the
guesswork
out and makes it more reliable.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme



>Has anyone out there ever run Nitrous?  I have a few questions.  First, how
>do you turn it on and when?  Do you press a button,  say at 2800 RPM?  What
>happens when you shift?  How about cost/availability of Nitrous (gas to
fill
>in the bottle)?  Is nitrous terrible for the engine?  I have a mild 455
with
>pretty much stock bottom end.  I want to shift at 4500-4800 rpm.  When
could
>I engage the Nitrous so that I can safely shift at this RPM?  Also, what
>power settings do I look for?  Is it worth it?  Do you have to be prepared
>for it (i.e. open the bottle valve at the trunk) or can you just engage it
>from the cockpit (say when some punk in a good 5.0 pulls up).  Thanks.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 18:25:25 -0600
From: "noslo67" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Re: Headders

Joe R Brockman wrote:

> I have a 66 olds Cutlass F-85 with a 330 engine.  The problem I am having
> is trying to headders for it.  The main reason I want headders is because
> I'm putting a pretty beefed-up cam and I want it to breathe good.  Any
> Suggestions?
>
> f85@juno.com
> 66 olds F-85
>

Joe,

Try a set of Hooker #3701's. I got a set to fit my '67 Cutlass convertible
without much trouble.

Shane Gibreal

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 19:20:05 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: 455 Buildup

- -----Original Message-----
From: DYeager535@aol.com <DYeager535@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, November 23, 1998 5:17 PM
Subject: Re: 455 Buildup


>In a message dated 11/23/98 1:59:35 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>FSNissen@Worldnet.ATT.NET writes:
>
><< Joe,
> A.I.R. first showed up on 49 state cars in 1980.
> Regards,
> Fred >>
>
>     They had AIR pumps all the way back to at least '66. For example, a
'66
>Olds F85 6 cylinder w/power steering, used the same pump as a '67 327
>Camaro..however, there is no differentiation between CA and federal, so
maybe
>only CA had them for a long time..Dorian
>
I was not clear in my reference.  I was refering to Olds built V8 engines
only, not engines produced by other divisions that were installed in Olds
cars.  Olds  V8s  had A.I.R. on California cars only prior to the 1980 model
year.
Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 19:29:50 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: I need TH400 long/short question

I've got a good TH400 long shaft that I'd be willing to trade for 'stuff'.
It works fine but it has alot of miles on it.  Came out of a 76 Delta 88. If
anyone wants it e me privately.  I live close to Atlanta, so consider the
shipping bill for a 150# package. 
Donny
 

> ----------
> From: 	RANDY A GEISEL[SMTP:RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Monday, November 23, 1998 9:25 AM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Re: I need TH400 long/short question
> 
> >Correct, you need a short-tailshaft TH400, from a 67-72 A-body
> 
> Is the following statement correct? Or have I been mislead?
> 
> The only difference that using a long tailshft 400 versus the short
> tailshaft is that you'll have to get your driveshaft cut a few inches
> shorter. Your driveshaft will have to be shortened anyway. Right?
> 
> Randy
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 19:31:28 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: MATT 88 Cutlass Supreme Int

Is this a RWD Cutlass?!

Ray

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Supafli50@aol.com
Sent: Monday, November 23, 1998 1:32 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: MATT 88 Cutlass Supreme Int


The Int.  Stands for International Edition. It has an emblem on the hood
with
7 or 8 different flags and the interior is a lot nicer.  It was the luxury
edition of the Cutlass I guess.  Lumbar seats and different center console
that runs to the bottom of the dash instead of the open pass-thru floor.

Matt

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 19:39:19 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: This is it...

B. Sanders wrote:
> 
> Farewell, my Oldsmohead buddies.  This is it for me, for now.  My company
> was bought out by another firm, and the few remaining survivors are being
> relocated.  Could be a long time till I can resubscribe, so I just wanted to
> say "thanks" to everyone who has helped me over the years.  I've learned a
> bunch from this list.  I'm going to miss you all...
> 
> Au revoir, mes amis!
> 
> Blaine

Well, see ya Blaine. Hate to see ya go. Hope everything works out.

Take care,
- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***************************
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 V-8 4 bbl)
1975 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (250 I-6 1 bbl)
1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (350 V-8 2 bbl)
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4 bbl)
*******************************************
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 19:34:01 EST
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: F/S  1961 Starfire

  With much thought I have decided to put my beloved 1961 Starfire up for
sale. I have owned it since  Feb 1980. I bought it off the original owner  an
87 year old lady. It only had 40,000 miles then. It turned 50,000 this summer.
Car has alsways been garaged and never seen snow or salt, no I repeat NO rust.
  Car is probably the best original one left. Top, interior and paint are
original. The engine was pulled and rebuilt two years ago because of blowby.
The undercarriage as well as the engine compartment were detailed. Valve
covers and aircleaner were rechromed as per original. Both bumpers were
rechromed because of dents that were in them from original owner. All
stainless was taken off and buffed and polished. 
   This car was driven in the Olds centennial parade in Lansing in 1997.
    Serious inquirys only.  $30,000 firm

Everett Horton
1-401-435-7139   Rumford, R.I. 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 19:36:13 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: Rear End checkout Q's

>  Hello folks,
> I am getting ready to put together a 10 bolt clutch type (C) limited slip
> 3.42 for my 72 olds.  These parts have been given to me over the past
> years and I just wanted to put them all together to make a complete spare
> rear.
> 
Doe's anyone have any helpful hints about checking out the clutch plates to
see if they need replacing?

> Can I set it up 'close enough' by just setting the ring to pinion
> backlash?  'Close enough' meaning that it shouldn't fly apart.
> I'm pretty sure I can get the pinion depth pretty close by looking at the
> wear pattern with some grease or paint. 
> 
> And since they are used gears, can I just match the wear pattern and be
> good to go?
> 
> Thanks,
> Donny
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 18:42:14 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: '83 Delta Ralleye Pak & Interior Question

Hi kids.  When I went to the junkyard to get my replacement VALVE COVER (Oh
GOD!  It's this guy again!) I was working on a 1983 Delta 88 4-door Royale
(not a Brougham).  This particular car had already donated it's steering
column, but it still had a "Ralleye Pak" - Volts, Oil Pressure, and
Temperature guages mounted in the piece that fits above (and around) the
column, below the speedometer/fuel/trip/gear assambly.

Being that the junkyard guy is a dick who once charged me the $10.00
minimum when all I needed was a friggin' BOLT, I "acquired" this piece for
myself.  I got the plate with the guages, the four screws that hold it in,
and I cut the wires to the guages as far back in the dash as I could.

What I DIDN'T get was the entire Left Hand dash piece (basically because it
didn't fit in the tool box ;->), and in retrospect I think that would have
been an excellent idea, because my '84s dash piece is all one piece - what
I mean is, the piece with the guages was seperate from the LH dash piece on
the donor car, and on mine the place where the guages would go is all one
piece with the LH dash.

SO........I probably am going to have to find a LH, two-piece dash piece.
Was this design pre-'84, or did it only come with the guage cluster, or
were the guages only available until '83, or...

THE PROBLEM AT HAND:

On my first Olds, I went all up, down, around and through the dash, but now
I can't remember HOW TO TAKE THE HEADLIGHT KNOB OFF!  I don't want to
accidentally pull the shaft out of the dash (like I did on the donor car),
but I don't remember the knob being that hard to get off.  How do you get
the knob off the shaft?

The reason why I ask is I want to look inside my dash and see if the wiring
in there is set up to receive my new guage cluster, with only splicing
required on my part.  What are the odds of the wires being there?

If the wires were there (big IF, I know...), would the stock sensors (only
idiot lights for volts, oil pressure and temperature) work with the guages?

Anybody else have an early-mid Eighties big car with these guages that
wants to share secrets?
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 18:50:21 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: 455 blocks and TH-400 trannys

All the talking has made me wonder...

First, what I think is true:  a 1976 Olds 455 block (or AROUND then) is NOT
as good as a 1970 455 block, correct?  Why, exactly?

Second, my question: is a 1976 TH-400 the same as a 1969 TH-400?  IF they
differ in tailshaft length (I'm taking a WAG that you couldn't get a short
shaft after 1972), then is there any other difference?  Why, exactly?
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 19:46:17 -0200
From: BRIAN SHANKLE <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: another carb question

Yeah, I cleaned the carb I got from the junkyard, and it worked fine
except the check engine light went on and off much more often (this was
before I knew how to run the codes) and the fuel inlet threads were
stripped on the carb body itself and it leaked a pretty good amount of
fuel.  Compared to the original however, it ran very well.  I tried to
rebuild that one, never to attempt a Rochester rebuild again as this one
has been reduced to parts (if I can't successfully rebuild one, what the
hell am I giong to do with the parts :-)).  Anyway, tomorrow I am going
to give a guy $20 for a 52k mile Quadrajet from a Monte Carlo 305.  If
it doesn't work, I am only out $20 and a little trouble.  Should be OK
though and if the problem persists I will know for sure it isn't the
carb.  If anyone knows anything about this swap, please advise.
Thanks,
Brian.


Jim & Sharon Brady wrote:
> 
> Brian,
>     Alot of people on this list are probably going to tell you to work with
> what you have.  I will suggest this as a first option.  You talk about
> junkyard carbs, did you rebuild or at least clean them before you installed
> them.  If you have your original carb I would get a rebuild kit and follow
> the instructions.  I was in this same situation 4 years ago with my Chevy.
> The Quadrajet had a divorced choke and didn't work worth a damn.  After a
> few months of adjusting I ordered the 4011 Holley with electric choke and
> vacuum secondaries.  It worked great until I put in a monster cam at which
> point a double pumper was in order.  The 4011 was reliable and the easiest
> Holley to adjust.  When ordering simply state the application and they do a

> great job of setting one up.  The Holley is a last resort since the
> Quadrajet is a pretty good factory carb.
> 
> Jim Brady
> 1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
> http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
> bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
> 
> >Hi all,
> >I know I have just about beaten this to death, but I am going to try one
> >more thing before I just give up and sell the car.  I would like to know
> >how much trouble (and the steps I would have to take) to switch my 86
> >Cutlass Supreme's 307 (Y) Q-jet to a more credible carburetor.  My
> >rebuild attempt ended in a second death for a junkyard carb.  I am not
> >interested in high performance for this car, but I am sick of 9-11 mpg
> >and that friggin orange check engine light.  Given the behavior of the
> >car, and the intense hiss I heard when I got on it against a curb, I am
> >going to change the catalytic converter in hopes that it will help and
> >keep me from changing the carb.  I could just go to the local Pep Boys
> >and get an Edelbrock, but I need to know how to make the conversion and
> >even more importantly, what are some of the better, yet less expensive
> >carbs that would work on this car?  What CFM is recommended to hold the
> >performance about the same, if not maybe a *little* spicier?  Don't want
> >too many tickets, ya know.
> >Thanks,
> >Brian.
> >
> >------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 18:56:59 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: 455 blocks and TH-400 trannys

After reading it, I thought of a clearer way to ask this.  I wasn't
speaking of one year/years in particular, but...

Does a part of the same type (i.e., 455 cid block, Th-400 Auto Tranny) from
a non-performance car/year (like a 1976 Delta) have the same performance
characteristics as that type from a performance year/car (1970 442)?  Or
did the specs on a particular component change over time?

At 06:50 PM 11/23/98 , you wrote:
>All the talking has made me wonder...
>
>First, what I think is true:  a 1976 Olds 455 block (or AROUND then) is NOT
>as good as a 1970 455 block, correct?  Why, exactly?
>
>Second, my question: is a 1976 TH-400 the same as a 1969 TH-400?  IF they
>differ in tailshaft length (I'm taking a WAG that you couldn't get a short
>shaft after 1972), then is there any other difference?  Why, exactly?
>-------------------------------------------------------------
> Brian Ammons		Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
> MIS Major - UT Austin	b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
> 2903 Breeze Terrace	http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
> Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
> 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
>	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
> 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
>-------------------------------------------------------------
> 
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 20:04:07 EST
From: OLDS44272@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stick shift "W" body

   << if the W-body is like most GM cars, the clutch safety switch simply
uses the same connector that would plug into the neutral safety switch on
an AT car.  There usually isn't a dedicated connector for the clutch. >>


      I was able to look at a factory service manual for a 90 Grand Prix. It
shows a connector inside the passenger compartment on the left side next to
the column. It has one purple and one yellow wire going to the connect. On
most newer front wheel drive cars, the neutral saftey switch is on the trans,
right where the shift cable is connected. It looks like i have more hunting to
do inside the car. I don't think the wiring harnesses are different for auto
vs. stick cars.........SCOTT

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 20:07:53 -0500
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Signing off

>Hi everyone,
>
>I am going through some personal problems right now so I am going to
>sign
>off the list to clear my mind.  I don't know if I am going to sign back
>on
>at a later date.
>
>Later...
>--
>Chris Sparks
>68 442 SC - Frosty
>68 442 HT - Scarlet
>68 442 HT - Saffron
>82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
>http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

Hey Chris, Hope things work out for you. hings are never as black as they
sometimes seem.
Going to miss your wit and humor.
Come back soon.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 20:13:15 EST
From: OLDS44272@aol.com
Subject: Re: wont turn off (DIFFERENT)

In a message dated 98-11-23 14:08:58 EST, you write:

<< The ONLY position it
 will turn off in, is REVERSE!!! Weird... Wont kill in park, nuetral,
 drive, nothing but reverse... Thoughts? >>


    Just a wild long shot, but maybe a becuase the reverse lights would come
on,that added draw on the system would kill the car????

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 17:14:50 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Why do you hate 

At 09:09 AM 11/23/98 -0800, you wrote:
>QUICK where is this Junkyard????  I would sure like to find one with an 
>abundance of Oldsmobiles.  I have yet to find one with more Olds than 
>other GM's.  I think you should actualy look around before claiming 
>that.

here in WA state Oldsmobiles are easy to find in junkyards.
But there seems to be a higher concetration on the road too.
Sometimes I feel like I'm up to my armpits in mid '70's Deltas :)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 20:25:04 -0500 (EST)
From: Derek Douglas <derek@primeline.net>
Subject: Re: Why do you hate 

Maybe you can't find them in the junkyard because they actually last and
are still on the roads moving along like they were still new.. =] Sorry
had to throw that in. 

TTYL

Derek Douglas
- ---------------
1988 Cutlass Supreme Int. Coupe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 20:23:43 -0500
From: Roger Nienberg <s002rwn@discover.wright.edu>
Subject: Bashing on the List

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0099_01BE171F.2A76B400
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

All the vehicles made by G.M. are good and bad in their own way. I like =
Olds, Chevy and anything american made except for Ford. I believe that =
Ford bashing is much funner and less harming than bashing chevys or =
olds. I personally enjoy ripping on all of my friends who have Fords =
that need me to give them a ride to the shop to pick up their cars every =
week. In other words, If were going to bash anything lets bash the =
company that is called an F word. =20
   =20
    Everyone also needs to be reminded that this is an Olds list where =
we talk about problems, story's, facts with our cars and not the other =
kinds, enless we have a good story of blowing the other cars away.

Roger Nienberg
69 Cutlass S Convertible
90 Camaro RS


- ------=_NextPart_000_0099_01BE171F.2A76B400
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>All the vehicles made by G.M. are =
good and bad=20
in their own way. I like Olds, Chevy and anything american made except =
for Ford.=20
I believe that Ford bashing is much funner and less harming than bashing =
chevys=20
or olds. I personally enjoy ripping on all of my friends who have Fords =
that=20
need me to give them a ride to the shop to pick up their cars every =
week. In=20
other words, If were going to bash anything lets bash the company that =
is called=20
an F word.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Everyone also =
needs to be=20
reminded that this is an Olds list where we talk about problems, =
story's, facts=20
with our cars and not the other kinds, enless we have a good story of =
blowing=20
the other cars away.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Roger Nienberg</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>69 Cutlass S =
Convertible</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>90 Camaro RS</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0099_01BE171F.2A76B400--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 19:24:10 +0000
From: f85@juno.com (Joe R Brockman)
Subject: Hey noslo67!!

I was just wondering where did you get those #3701's from and how much
were they?

Joe Brockman
66 F-85

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 19:46:25 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: rear geometry

Bob,
I know for sure that Lakewood makes what they call "hop stop bars" to
relocate the upper arms and you can look them up on
 http://WebStore.JEGs.com and both the adjustable and non adjustable
bars are offered by Hotchkis at http://www.hotchkis.net/ .  Only used an
airbag on the passenger side to keep the car straight during launch
but I would try it without them first before I spent the money.  It will
take
a bit of playing to dial in the adjustable upper bars but it works good and
basically gives you a drag racing 4 link.  Handling should stay the same
until you start swapping out springs and shock which should be soft for
launching off the line but stiffer for cornering.  Which to you want to do?
If you want to mainly stay on the street you can use the stock lower arms
if you already have a rear sway bar as I don't think the aftermarket ones
accommodate it.  I would advise beefing it up though by welding some
plate onto the bottom of it and using some longer bolts.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>Where might I buy some upper bar relocators? adj.length tubular bars? Do
>ya think the air bags work well with this set up? Sounds like these 3
>modifications may be my ticket to better traction. I`m considering a
>mild converter as well. Any suggestions? Any handling drawbacks to these
>mods? Thanks to all for your responses.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 20:49:21 EST
From: CNC40@aol.com
Subject: Re: Why do you hate "C" cars?

You have to remember it's all GM.  My chevy's are very reliable.  Olds is
something you just have in your blood you know what I mean.  Dog the jap junk
it not worth a 
S!%t in my eyes. Look at chevy as a OLDS brother. MY 2 CENTS

70 OLDS CUTLASS CONV. BB
71 EL CAMINO SS
84 CHO-CHO
85 MONTY SS

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 20:53:17 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Need to sell some Lincolns so I can buy some Olds parts

Yes I know this is an Oldsmobile list, but this is related in that I am
trying to sell three Lincoln Marks (79, 80, 81) to finance the beginning
of the resto work on a Cutlass or two.  They are restorable but would
need to be haulled as they currently are not drivable due to some
midnight auto supply procurement action.  $750 each or $2,000 for all
three.  If you know anyone looking for these cars, please have them
contact me privately.  Thanks.  The cars are located near Lexington, Ky.

And yes, I do have three project Oldsmobiles to use the money for.  

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky

69 S conv
70 Supreme conv
72 Hurst
72 S 2dr (also for sale-Tennessee orange in the Bluegrass State?)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 20:58:58 -0500
From: Bob Dale <bctad5@toolcity.net>
Subject: rear suspension

Hey Mike,
  Thanks for the tips. I will investigate. No swaybar on the car now so
I`ll probably try the aftermarket  ones.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 19:56:24 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Why do you hate "C" cars?

>You also don't go on a Monte Carlo list saying, "hey guys isn't the Cutlass
>a great car?" You probably stick to the subject matter because you know
that
>it's a MONTE CARLO LIST. What did the guy expect?


A little tolerance, perhaps. A 15 year old kid stops by for a howdy-do, and
leaves with a bloody lip. Not our finest moment.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 20:20:18 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Nitrous & 455

Geez Igor....the 455 already roasts rubber at the touch of the
go-pedal....how much more ya want???

Sounds like you got torque disease.

:)

drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 21:00:51 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: yet another carb question

OK Bri....so you have trouble code 45, rich mixture.

Factory manual says :

Listen to the carburettor during the diagnostic self-test (test pins A & B
shorted, that's where you see the Check Engine light flash). During the test
the mixture control solenoid is excersized, and you will hear a definite
clicking sound comming from the carb.

No clicking means trouble with the mixture control solenoid (MCS). Trouble
codes 23 and 54 indicate electrical problems (wiring or open solenoid
winding). No code 23 or 54 means the solenoid is stuck or broken.

Changing carb is easiest fix, although the solenoid is available as a std
replacement part at auto parts stores. Requires disassembly and lots of
care. I've done it.

If you hear the clicking, the MCS is working, so something is overpowering
the computer's ability to control mixture.

Possible causes:

1) Oxygen sensor contaminated with silicone. Can happen if you use RTV as a
sealant on anything in the inake or exhaust system. Even a new sensor can be
destroyed if exposed to silicone fumes.
2) Purge or bowl vent valves leaking. (Sorry, dunno what that means).
3) Fuel in crankcase.
4) Fuel in evaporative canister
5) Sticking metering rods inside carb.

If the problem points to the MCS or carb itself, the Monte carb may work for
you. Make sure the idle screw plugs have been removed so you can reset idle
mixture afterward.

Don't give up.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 21:11:58 -0500
From: Brian Kerr <bkerr@golden.net>
Subject: Re: Bondo:Friend or Foe?

Your guy is basically right. The main thing is preparation and compatible, high
quality materials.
Brian Kerr
69 Cutlass Conv

Peter Landowski wrote:
....he stated that every car out there has bondo on it. Whether or not it is
new or a show car, he said that every car has bondo in it. Bondo is not a bad
thing. As long as the prep is done right and there isn't 3 inches of it in one
spot it will look and work fine. Even a factory stamped sheetmetal will have
some type of flaw which needs to be filled in order for it to be straight. What
do you guys think????

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 21:22:26 EST
From: MARKSJ@aol.com
Subject: 1981 Cutlass Supreme Brougham for SALE

Folks,
The time has come for us to sell our 81 Cutlass Supreme Brougham.  She has
been super reliable and it will be sad to see her go.  Below are the stats:
144,000kms (approx 85,000 miles)
White on white
Interior is near mint
Full guage package 
Located in Burlington, Ontario (30 minutes west of Toronto)
267 engine 4.4L
Original body with no rust
Front end is slightly sagging on passage side due to broken stabliler bar
linkage

Would like to sell for approx $1500 CDN.

If interested or further details call 905-332-0627 or email at marksj@aol.com.
I am planning on scanning a few pics.  Email me privately for them.

Joel Marks
marksj@aol.com
Burlington, Ontario, Canada
1981 Olds Cutlass Supreme Brougham (was the daily driver)
1971 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertible.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 21:25:25 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: wont turn off (DIFFERENT)

This may sound a little questionable too, but do you have electric fans?  And 
if
you do - do you have them tied directly to the fuse box?  We ran into something
similar to this on my buddies car - he had his fans on a switch that was tied
directly to the fuse box... If you left the switch on and tried to shut the car
off the fans would back feed the ignition circuit and keep the car running and
at the same time the generator light would come on etc.  Just something to look
at...
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a 'glide :-(
'75 Supreme - project car....
'82 Supreme - SB, 700R4, 3.73's - Grin!
'86 Supreme - V-8 - daily driver...

OLDS44272@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 98-11-23 14:08:58 EST, you write:
>
> << The ONLY position it
>  will turn off in, is REVERSE!!! Weird... Wont kill in park, nuetral,
>  drive, nothing but reverse... Thoughts? >>
>
>     Just a wild long shot, but maybe a becuase the reverse lights would come
> on,that added draw on the system would kill the car????

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 19:37:15 -0500
From: "jlabay" <jlabay@neo.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Chev in olds

I get those looks but usually bad ones :-) They are shocked to see a small
block Chevy in my 72 Supreme (396 LT1 Stroker from a 95 Vette). NA and runs
high 10's all day plus I can drive it home. This motor is only temporary
though, can't find me a good 425 or 455 build up motor yet.

Jason Labay (jlabay@neo.lrun.com) Akron, OH
98 C2500
80 Olds 442 W-30
72 Cutlass Supreme bowtie powered...10.88 @ 126
88 GTA...LS1 powered



>I love to see the expression on there faces when I open my hood , they
>cant believe that a grandmas car runs 11.40s and has an olds engine in
>it , then they look for  the blue bottle that is not there and walk away
>shaking there heads. Man I love my olds
>  Butch 68  442  post

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 21:43:01 EST
From: W451973@aol.com
Subject: Re: Chev in olds

hey, jason. how about some pics of that 72 supreme?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 21:52:03 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Bashing on the List

Gosh, the list has changed a tad.  I've been away in Japan for the past
week and just resubscribed.  Seems like I've missed a  big bruiser brawl
with the other car lists and/or cars on the the Internet.  Has the
"gentleman's sportscar" (Olds) gone grunge, or something?  Do we hafta
start putting "Bad Boys" window stickers in our Cutlasses and 88's?
BTW, it's good to be back.  Tokyo did do wonders for my chopstick
skills, though.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 22:05:26 -0500
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Re: Nitrous & 455

I've never used nitrous oxide...in a car,  but a friend of mine had the
switch mounted under the gas pedal. When the pedal hit the metal...well you
can guess the rest. It was a '68 AMX. Many moons ago.
					R. Kevin Noon
					66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
					85 Delta 88 Royale Brougham

- ----------
> From: Igor T. '81 DRB 455 <igor455@home.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Nitrous & 455
> Date: Monday, November 23, 1998 2:25 PM
> 
> Has anyone out there ever run Nitrous?  I have a few questions.  First,
how
> do you turn it on and when?  Do you press a button,  say at 2800 RPM? 
What
> happens when you shift?  How about cost/availability of Nitrous (gas to
fill
> in the bottle)?  Is nitrous terrible for the engine?  I have a mild 455
with
> pretty much stock bottom end.  I want to shift at 4500-4800 rpm.  When
could
> I engage the Nitrous so that I can safely shift at this RPM?  Also, what
> power settings do I look for?  Is it worth it?  Do you have to be
prepared
> for it (i.e. open the bottle valve at the trunk) or can you just engage
it
> from the cockpit (say when some punk in a good 5.0 pulls up).  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 22:22:06 -0500
From: dgerow@student.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: 70 Cutlass SX

Hello all,

Once again I shall employ the collaborative genius that is the List.
There is a guy down the street that has what I believe to be a 70 or 71
Cutlass SX.  Its in rather nice shape, but has telltale signs of an
older resto/paint and so on.  The car has a '69 455, mildly built, posi
rear w/ 3.23, dual trumpet tips.  Its an automatic with a rather nice
interior.  Exterior is a forest green w/ hood stripes and vinyl top.  I
don't know much about the SX brand of Cutlass.  What would be an
estimate for the value of this vehicle.  I know this is a difficult
thing to asess, but I'm assuming the lack of original, number-matchin
engine does take it's toll.  He wants $6,000 for the car, which I think
is a bit much overall, except that he wants to trade me for my '72 Gr*nd
Pr*x.  Others include no A/C, no power options...so on.  If anyone could
give me just the slightest info, it would be much appreciated.  Just
leave the bill in my Inbox!

Thanks and I hope everyone enjoys the Holiday...

Dan Gerow
'69 4-4-2
'71 Cutlass Supreme

- --
- ---------------------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
WSHL General Manager
http://www.stonehill.edu/wshl
http://www.stonehill.edu/~dgerow
- ---------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 22:18:08 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Why do you hate "C" cars?

Nobody bloodied his lip but himself. Every post I read expressed an honest
opinion in a cordial manner. If someone on an Oldsmobile list feels that a
Chevrolet is an inferior automobile he should feel free to say so. The only
hostility I read came from Doug himself. He didn't "tolerate" the opinions
of some on the list.

- -----Original Message-----

>
You probably stick to the subject matter because you know
>that
>>it's a MONTE CARLO LIST. What did the guy expect?
>
>
>A little tolerance, perhaps. A 15 year old kid stops by for a howdy-do, and
>leaves with a bloody lip. Not our finest moment.
>
>drc
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 22:22:25 EST
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: Nitrous & 455

In a message dated 98-11-23 14:27:54 EST, you write:

<< Has anyone out there ever run Nitrous?  I have a few questions.  First, how
 do you turn it on and when?  Do you press a button,  say at 2800 RPM?  What
 happens when you shift?  How about cost/availability of Nitrous (gas to fill
 in the bottle)?  Is nitrous terrible for the engine?  I have a mild 455 with
 pretty much stock bottom end.  I want to shift at 4500-4800 rpm.  When could
 I engage the Nitrous so that I can safely shift at this RPM?  Also, what
 power settings do I look for?  Is it worth it?  Do you have to be prepared
 for it (i.e. open the bottle valve at the trunk) or can you just engage it
 from the cockpit (say when some punk in a good 5.0 pulls up).  Thanks. >>
If you decide to go with NOS i have a complete 125hp kit for sale $200. I
upgraded mine to a 175hp

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 22:26:40 -0000
From: "Mike Druger" <mdruger@email.msn.com>
Subject: Dynomax Turbo Muffler Dual Exhaust

Hi List,
Just updated my stock single exhaust system to a Dynomax Turbo Muffler dual
exhaust on my '71 Cutlass Holiday S.  Sounds Great!  It's not too loud, and
I even noticed a slight increase in performance.  Thanks to Joe Padavano for
the advice after reading an earlier thread.  I believe that he is the true
authority on Oldsmobiles! Next spring I'll do some more engine work.  Thanks
to everyone on this list for providing so much vital information.  Happy
Thanksgiving all!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 23:52:44 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Bashing on the List

First of all, time to put an end to this thread. The person in question
(Doug) left immediately after sending his message, so all of the
follow-ups were never seen by him. I did find his reaction a little
thin-skinned, but I'm always disappointed when the list gets into one of
its periodic bash-fests. Let's keep it in check, gang.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 22:50:40 EST
From: DrkSole96@aol.com
Subject: Re: car wont turn off

In a message dated 98-11-22 22:56:50 EST, you write:

<< my first guess would be that the ignition switch is worn and let the key
out 
 while in the ACC position.
 
 will any "ignition hot" things work with the key out?
 
  >>
Well, I've had the alternator tested and it passed.  I've picked up a new
ignition switch though I won't be able to get it on till Wednesday.  None of
the accesories will work with the switch in the off position, but the GEN
light is still staying on.  

Anyway, I'll give ya the rundown on the rest of the car.  73 Cutlass Supreme,
red w/ beige top and interior.  Bucket seats (recovered in the correct fabrics
and vinyl though not installed yet) out've another 73 Supreme I bought at a
police auction for $120.  VDO Tach on the column, auto meter gauges, 15x7
ssIII from a 75 H/O mounted with 255/60r15 BFG radial T/As, 3.42:1 richmond
gears w/auburn posi.  PST polygraphite bushings on the suspension, H-O racing
springs and sway bars front and rear, herb adams 3 way adjustable shocks.  
stuff I still need to do is get the rust fixed, get a new vinyl top put on,
get a new tranny, and rebuild and install the 67 425 I've got in the garage.  
Thanks for the help, this is a cool list.

DrkSole
73 Cutlass Supreme  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 22:54:43 EST
From: Socalolds@aol.com
Subject: Need: Vinyl top moulding -72Cutlass Supreme

I'm trying to finish a Christmas present for my daughter and need the vinyl
top moulding for a 72 Cutlass Supreme. I'm almost finished but can't put the
VT on until I have the two long side pieces that extend from the  quarter
windows to the back window.  These pieces are longer  than the 70-1 CS's.
Thanks in advwance for any help
Dennis 

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1621
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