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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1620


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, November 23 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1620



Re: Why do you hate 
Re: 455 Buildup
Re: what one to buy???
Re: True Dual Exhaust Manifolds
1985 442 FOR SALE
Re: what one to buy???
Re: 67 Cutlass Info Needed -Reply
Re: 455 Buildup
Re: 455 Buildup
Re: Stick shift "W" body
Re: 67 Cutlass Info Needed -Reply
Re: MATT 88 Cutlass Supreme Int
Re: Newbe
RE: Pics of my 80 Olds 442
Re: 455 Buildup
Oops, I need TH400
Re: daytime running lights
Re: Oops, I need TH400
RE: Starfire cruise
wont turn off (DIFFERENT)
Nitrous & 455
Re: Bondo:Friend or Foe?
Re: Front end rebuild/ springs/ weight
Re: I need TH400 long/short question
1985 442 FOR IMMEDIATE SALE
Re: daytime running lights
Re: Why do you dislike "C" cars?
Mods for Newbie?
Re: Igor 20
[none]
Re: wont turn off (DIFFERENT)
Re: Newbe
UNBOUNCE: Repro Batteries?
UNBOUNCE: Request h*lp for My Olds' History
rear geometry
Re: HEATER CORE REPLACEMENT
Re: I need TH400 long/short question
Re: Bye.
Re: Nitrous & 455
Re: 455 Buildup
olds
Headers (was: 455 Buildup)
Re: 455 Buildup
Re: Turkey Rod Run Daytona
Re: I need TH400 long/short question
Re: 455 Buildup
Re: MATT 88 Cutlass Supreme Int
Re: I need TH400 long/short question
Machine work prices
Signing off
(no subject)
Re: 1985 442 FOR SALE
Re: 455 Buildup
Re: daytime running lights
Re: Why do you hate 
Re: Signing off
Re: yet another carb question

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 09:09:27 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Why do you hate 

QUICK where is this Junkyard????  I would sure like to find one with an 
abundance of Oldsmobiles.  I have yet to find one with more Olds than 
other GM's.  I think you should actualy look around before claiming 
that.

 Now I can walk through my junkyard and without a doubt there are
>more dead Oldsmobiles there than any GM make.
>
>Jason Labay (jlabay@neo.rr.com) Akron, OH


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 12:20:45 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 Buildup

In a message dated 11/23/98 11:50:47 AM Eastern Standard Time,
James.E.Brady.1@gsfc.nasa.gov writes:

<< I have never ported and/or polished but willing to try(I now of at least
 two people who have and can assist.)  I would like a larger cam along with
 torque converter but really want to leave the rear alone.  Looking more
 toward passing power, not off the line power.  How long to the stock valve
 springs hold up?  I am also looking to retain the exhaust manifolds.  Am I
 making this hard enough?  Still want quiet mufflers, remember wife and kids
 will spend time with me in this car.  Got the Chevy for shear volume!
  >>
well, lets see here....  if you want to retain your highway gears, i wouldnt
go with anything much more than an edelbrock performer or maybe a tad more.
they make great torque low in the rpms.  if you want a higher stall converter,
id say not much more than 2000-2200 rpm stall.  heads, i wouldnt do much, just
maybe smooth out the exhaust side, and im not sure about the 455s, but if they
have the a.i.r.(i think thats what they are) bumps, grind them down.  dad
messes with the big blocks, i just have a 350.  anyways, his 455 has a
performer cam and intake, forged pistons and crank, "c" heads, oversized
valves, w-30 exhaust manifolds, 2 1/4" duals with dynomax ultra flow mufflers.
this car sounds like it has a 260 in it until you step on it.  VERY quiet
mufflers.  but if youll look in the new issue of pop. hot rodding, youll see
that they are actually better than flowmasters!  anyways, its a great cruiser
with 3.08 gears and 2004r tranny.  oh yea, the car is a '67 442 convertible.
good luck,
jeremy
BIGJERMES@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 09:26:46 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: what one to buy???

Get the 400!!!!!

>hey guys and gals, i fond 2 olds engines for sale for $200 each.
>but i dont know wich one to get? one is a 67 442 400 with a steel crank 
>minus the heads.or a 75 442 350 complete with steel crank and high 
>performance parts.know is a 67 400 worth buying heads for? 
>or would it be just as good to go with the complete 350?


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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 09:43:25 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: True Dual Exhaust Manifolds

Tim,

I dunno much about the racing scene so I am not sure if this would be
breaking the rules or not. What I did on my 1970 Olds 350 was to first
cut that cross-over pipe off. I then made a cap for the manifold. (It
looks rough, but it seals great!) I put an exhaust donut on there and
then ran 2 long bolts and sucked the cap right up there. It seals
great and allowed me to run true duals out the back. Just a suggestion.

Del

==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 12:55:54 -0500
From: "Frank Montero" <parc@erols.com>
Subject: 1985 442 FOR SALE

WHITE/GRAY EXT.
BLUE INT.
T-TOPS
EXCELLENT CONDITION
BEST OFFER TAKES

I CAN BE REACHED @ 516-373-4457
LOCATED IN SUFFOLK COUNTY, NY (LONG ISLAND)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 13:10:40 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: what one to buy???

hey guys and gals, i fond 2 olds engines for sale for $200 each.
but i dont know wich one to get? one is a 67 442 400 with a steel crank
minus the heads.or a 75 442 350 complete with steel crank and high
performance parts.know is a 67 400 worth buying heads for?
or would it be just as good to go with the complete 350?
________

The answer, naturally, is "It depends".  The 350 has a steel crank?  Are
you sure?  The only steel small block cranks are those from the 64-67 330s
(which _will_ fit in all small block Olds motors, as the stroke is the same
for all), which means that a) the motor has been apart and had better have
been rebalanced when it was put back together, and b) it should have an
early flywheel bolt pattern on the crank.  As a data point, the crank alone
would be worth at least $75-$100.  What other "high performance parts" does
it come with?  If you're planning to use it to replace a small block, this
is obviously the easiest route.

If you want a big block, the 400 is the obvious way to go (you were
expecting something else from _me_?)  Naturally, you'll spend a bunch more
putting this motor together (Chris Witt has a nice set of redone big-valve
C heads at a good price), but when you're done, the early short-stroke 400
is a screamer.  Of course, be aware that parts for these early 400s are
starting to get hard to come by (primarily pistons and rings - everything
else is pretty much common with other Olds big blocks).

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 10:17:25 -0800
From: Roy Rutz <ROYR@cdpr.ca.gov>
Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass Info Needed -Reply

Thanks for the info on the 67 cutlass front seat.  It's the answer I really
expected but didn't want to put money into it until I was reassured. 
Interior is the last major item left to complete on this car.  In 66 I bought a
new 442 shich I sold 2 years later when facing the draft.  Wish I had it
back.
I live in Northern California and plan to take the cutlass to Reno for Hot
August Nights next summer.
Thanks again
royr 

>>> Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com> 11/20/98 04:14pm >>>
I don't have any numbers on the auto-Tpke cruiser option.....but I have
a 67 Cutlass convertible with a plain bench front seat...I like it
better that way.  So did my wife before we were married...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 13:18:15 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 455 Buildup

...If the heads are EGR they can hurt the flow and power
output. I say remove the EGR IF YOU CAN...
__________

Let's once again put to rest this misnomer which Mondello continues to
perpetuate.  EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) is a pollution control system
which lives in the intake manifold.  The issue with the heads is the
incorporation of "bumps" in the exhaust ports to allow the accommodation of
the air injection system (A.I.R. - air injector reactor, aka a smog pump).
A.I.R. was used on 66-67 California cars only, then on later cars, though
I'm not quite sure of the exact years.  Most Olds motors _do not_ have
A.I.R., however the bumps are cast into all Olds heads, causing an exhaust
restriction.  Grinding out these bumps is an easy way to improve exhaust
flow.  Just please don't be like Joe M and refer to them as "EGR bumps".

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 11:26:07 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 455 Buildup

What I did to the J-heads was remove the a.i.r. bump on the exhaust side &
polish it.  I then opened up the exhaust valve opening a bit.  As far as the
stock gears go, if you keep them go with the same cam I have (which is the
same as Edelbrock Performer) and don't get a stall converter.  You don't
need it + with 2.56 gears I would not recommend it.  I use the same stock
exhaust manifolds as you have.  They work okay.  It is true duel exhaust
with the second inlet on the pass. side capped off.  The car is silent
(believe me) with 2.5" duels, balancer tube, Dynomax Long Turbo mufflers and
2.25" tails.  (Long mufflers will flow better and be quieter, but cost
more). BUT if you can, GET headers.  I doubt that the car would be much
louder, but it would make much more power.  The stock manifolds are too
restrictive and hurt lots.  I could not fit any headers in my car, but they
make them for yours.  On a big motor like that, headers are like free power.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 13:26:57 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Stick shift "W" body

 I have a 90 Cutlass Supreme. ...What i would like to do is
see if i can find the connector for the clutch to use that as a kill switch
feed...
________

Scott, if the W-body is like most GM cars, the clutch safety switch simply
uses the same connector that would plug into the neutral safety switch on
an AT car.  There usually isn't a dedicated connector for the clutch.  Good
idea, though.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 10:35:50 -0800
From: Roy Rutz <ROYR@cdpr.ca.gov>
Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass Info Needed -Reply

Brent
Sorry, I guess I sent you off with insufficient info. but it appears that you
read my mind and answered my question anyway,  My 67 Cutlass is the
Supreme model so it looks like I have to find a good rebuildable front seat
with the center arm rest. to be correct.  Oh well that's what makes this
sport fun isn't it?
Thanks
royr

>>> <TheBlue67@aol.com> 11/20/98 04:18pm >>>
i know for sure the bench with no armrest is correct option for your car.
i
believe most plain cutlass's did not have armrests. the supreme's on the
other
hand did have a armrest because they were a higher luxury model. my
cutlass
convertible does not have the arm rest.....its just a plain bench.

Brent
1967 Cutlass Covertible
http://members.aol.com/TheBlue67/main.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 13:32:01 EST
From: Supafli50@aol.com
Subject: Re: MATT 88 Cutlass Supreme Int

The Int.  Stands for International Edition. It has an emblem on the hood with
7 or 8 different flags and the interior is a lot nicer.  It was the luxury
edition of the Cutlass I guess.  Lumbar seats and different center console
that runs to the bottom of the dash instead of the open pass-thru floor.

Matt

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 11:37:14 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Newbe

>Some 255/60s should do
>the trick. Possibly a set of ladder bars would do you well also.


I have BFG Radial T/As 255/60/15 tires on 15x10" rims.  The motor is a 455
in my '81 Delta with 3.23 8.5 10-bolt Posi rear end.  I can't hook worth
crap.  The car has coil springs in the back.  What can I do for traction.
If I am unlucky to hit a slick pavement, even at 1/2 throttle it will squeal
pretty good and pretty long.  Crazy.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 11:42:05 -0700
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: RE: Pics of my 80 Olds 442

I'm in the need for a TH400 to put behind the 455 that's going in my '72
Cutlass Supreme.  If I understand right, the only ones that will fit are
from a '68 - '72 Buick, Olds, or Pontiac A-body...  Correct?  Ch*vy TH400
won't work, will it?  Also, doesn't the drive shaft need to be modified?
Can I use a driveshaft from a '68 or '68 442?

Thanks,
Blaine

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 11:47:23 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 455 Buildup

Also a Edelbrock Intake & a good ignition system are great if you can afford
it.  If you are doing a rebuild, put in a set of 10:1 pistons (~9.6 with
your heads) and that motor will really wake up.  When it was in the '76
Delta w2.56 gears, motor was good, but is much stronger now.  Imagine
headers, lumpier cam and 3.55 gears or so.  That would be nice.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 11:51:11 -0700
From: "B. Sanders" <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: Oops, I need TH400

Sorry, forgot to change the subject line in my last post...

> I'm in the need for a TH400 to put behind the 455 that's going in my '72
> Cutlass Supreme.  If I understand right, the only ones that will fit are
> from a '68 - '72 Buick, Olds, or Pontiac A-body...  Correct?  Ch*vy TH400
> won't work, will it?  Also, doesn't the drive shaft need to be modified?
> Can I use a driveshaft from a '68 or '68 442?
> 
> Thanks,
> Blaine

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 13:58:45 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: daytime running lights

In a message dated 11/22/98 11:18:56 PM EST, w.d.arnold@lmco.com writes:

<< I just checked JC Whitney and they have 2 kits listed (page 109):
 (1) Audiovox  >> Automatic on/off with the ign switch and delay off of
 30,60, or 90 secs.  $40
 (2) No Name brand >> Auto on/off , no delay option listed, low voltage (24%
 less voltage) .   $25
  >>

Donny,
Thanks for the info. Turns out GM makes a twilight sentinel with optional
daytime running lights.Auotmatically turns lights on/off at dusk plus has a
parking brake disable feature that allows you to warm up the car with the
lights out. The low beams operate at reduced intensity sensing the changing
light levels to prevent headlight flicker. It was $72, but then it does do
more and is all GM. If anyone is interested, it's #12341366 Goodwrench
twilight sentinel.
Thanks for steering me in the right direction.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 Conv. (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 13:57:15 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Oops, I need TH400

If I understand right, the only ones that will fit are
> from a '68 - '72 Buick, Olds, or Pontiac A-body...  Correct?  Ch*vy TH400
> won't work, will it?  Also, doesn't the drive shaft need to be modified?
> Can I use a driveshaft from a '68 or '68 442?
________

Correct, you need a short-tailshaft TH400, from a 67-72 A-body (yes, 1967
will work).  The Chevy trans uses a different bolt pattern than the rest of
GM, so you don't want that one.  The driveshaft from any 68-72 A-body 2
door will work (Chevy included), or you can have your current one shortened
to fit.  The front yoke on the driveshaft is different for a TH400, so you
need to make sure you have the correct one.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 11:05:45 -0800
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Starfire cruise

I have a very similar unit non 66 98. These cables are basically speedo
cables, but with a very special end that needs to be crimped on. Then they
only last for a year or so.

The ends I've used have been (I think) mechanical tach drive cable ends
available from my loca (very good) parts supplier.

You'll have to get creative on this one, or lucky in the boneyard. BTW --
Caddy used the same system, maybe those parts would work for yours...

cf

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ted Griffin [mailto:griffint@govst.edu]
> Sent: Sunday, November 22, 1998 10:37 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Starfire cruise
> 
> 
> The cruise control cable is missing on my "new" 63 starfire.  I have
> been told that because it drives off the left front wheel and had some
> rather severe bends, cables tended to not last more than a couple of
> years.  Still I would like to find a replacement.  The previous owner
> said he had tried for a long time with no success.  Any 
> advice from the
> experts here?
> 
> Griff
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 12:06:08 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: wont turn off (DIFFERENT)

I've got a different type of "wont turn off"
I am under the impression it's the volatage regulator, but want some
oppinions. It took me a while to find the right one that was set right
and for the same amps as my alternator. I had an aftermarket electronic
regulator, but that blew out on me and I had to go back stock. Don't
know where the electronic one came from (other than JC Whitney has them
for 10 bucks) Here's the prob:
Car runs, starts and drives fine. When I stop and go to turn off the
car... It continues running with the key out! The alternator light comes
on of course cause the charging circiut is open... The ONLY position it
will turn off in, is REVERSE!!! Weird... Wont kill in park, nuetral,
drive, nothing but reverse... Thoughts?
It's a 68 olds 442 400 w/ th-400
Ben

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 12:25:53 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Nitrous & 455

Has anyone out there ever run Nitrous?  I have a few questions.  First, how
do you turn it on and when?  Do you press a button,  say at 2800 RPM?  What
happens when you shift?  How about cost/availability of Nitrous (gas to fill
in the bottle)?  Is nitrous terrible for the engine?  I have a mild 455 with
pretty much stock bottom end.  I want to shift at 4500-4800 rpm.  When could
I engage the Nitrous so that I can safely shift at this RPM?  Also, what
power settings do I look for?  Is it worth it?  Do you have to be prepared
for it (i.e. open the bottle valve at the trunk) or can you just engage it
from the cockpit (say when some punk in a good 5.0 pulls up).  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 13:39:23 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: Bondo:Friend or Foe?

There are many different brands of "bondo" out there, including the one
with the brand name Bondo.

I've been told the amount of moisture they attrach is proportional to
the amount of talc they contain. One that was recommended to me is
Napa's Martin Senior's Micro-Lite body filler. I've used this stuff a
lot, and it's pretty decent. It holds very well - whether a little
thicker than should be applied, and to patch panels fastened with rivets
(no welder or funds at the time, and for just a winter driver). 
You might want to take a look into the fillers with metal as well.

One thing to remember: all body fillers will attrach moisture, so don't
leave the car out, or drive around in the rain! All primers (except
exotic stuff) don't provide a moisture barrier either.

My 2 US cents.
- -- 
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 14:31:29 EST
From: KASOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Front end rebuild/ springs/ weight

Thanks for the advice guys!

Keith
1970 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 14:25:55 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: I need TH400 long/short question

>Correct, you need a short-tailshaft TH400, from a 67-72 A-body

Is the following statement correct? Or have I been mislead?

The only difference that using a long tailshft 400 versus the short
tailshaft is that you'll have to get your driveshaft cut a few inches
shorter. Your driveshaft will have to be shortened anyway. Right?

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 14:38:41 -0500
From: "Frank Montero" <parc@erols.com>
Subject: 1985 442 FOR IMMEDIATE SALE

WHITE/GRAY EXT.
BLUE INT.
T-TOPS
EXCELLENT CONDITION
$3300/NEG. WILLING TO NEGOTIATE BEST OFFER!
MUST SELL WITHIN NEXT 3 WEEKS!!!

I CAN BE REACHED @ 516-373-4457
LOCATED IN SUFFOLK COUNTY, NY (LONG ISLAND)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 11:57:33 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: daytime running lights

> Anybody know how to wire for low power daytime running lights?
> Do they sell a module or something for Non-computerized cars?

As somebody else mentioned, GM does sell a retrofit kit for older cars;
the magazine ad I saw for it a couple years back showed what I remember
as a '64 GTO with the low beams on. I think the price was somewhere in
the $35 range.

> If not, is there some sort of jury-rig way (with resistors or such)
> to make this work?

Well, first of all the resistor that GM uses in its factory 
installation, at least when I tried to equip my '93 SSEi with the
same system GM was already building into the Bonnevilles destined for
Canada, is a honking big horseshoe-shaped ceramic thing that bolts 
inside the left front fender. Why they felt the need for something 
that big I don't know, but I get the impression you might as well 
track down their retrofit kit and use that, since it'll have 
instructions, color-keyed wiring and all that good stuff all laid out 
for you.

Putting it another way, I could probably cook up a relay circuit
pretty quick that'd turn on the low beams whenever you start the car,
but then they'd be blazing away at full power all the time, plus you'd 
have idiots flashing their lights at you in daytime, etc.

- -- Andy

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 15:06:19 EST
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Why do you dislike "C" cars?

In a message dated 98-11-22 20:19:33 EST, you write:

<< Dear Yall,
     Why is it that alot of you don't like Chevy's? I could see
 why some big headed Vette and Chevelle owners might turn you off,
 but whenever someone mentions an Olds on the Nova mailing list,
 postive remarks are all you hear. There is one guy on there that
 has a '67 F-85 and he said he loves his. If yall hate Chevy people,
 I guess I'll just stick with the Nova list. Anyway, I was just
 curious. 
    -Doug >>
Well Doug, Its not that we hate Chevys, its because of the Chevrolet
mentality.  Chev owners think there car is the quickest fastest and best.  And
when you go to book store all you see is Chev high performance, chev trucks,
Hot Rod that features all chevs, Popular Hot rodding, another chevy feast, Car
craft used to be Chev craft until the new editor came along and likes BOP's.  

just my .02
W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30
and 94 Chev Suburban, only because Olds doesnt make one

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 15:06:07 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Mods for Newbie?

In a message dated 98-11-23 10:54:34 EST, you write:

<<  Holiday Greetings Everyone, >>

Hello!

<< I`ve been on this list just over a week now and would like to say how
 pleased I am with the service and folks involved. >>

You may want to join the local chapter of the Oldsmobile Club of America
(which usually requires OCA membership). The local chapters usually are a good
source of build info where you can ~see~ the results.

<< Ya see I just bought my first Olds and have been diggin up info to
 help me make decisions on future improvements a may want to make.
 Suggestions and considerations are welcomeas apparently there are alot
 of folks here who`ve alredy forgotten more about Olds than I may ever
 know. >>

This might be  the right place, but Karl forgets...     :-)}

<<  It`s a 69Cutlass S, 455/400, 10bolt posi 3:36. Engine rebuilt 78k
 ago. Includes 10:25 pistons, Shaved E-heads, Crane 234/518@exaust,Torker
 II, 650 Holley spreadboreand HEI/supercoil. Has stock dual exaust
 maifolds, timing chain&gear, oil pump&pan and converter. Shiftkit in
 400. Cooper Cobra 245/70X14s on SSIIs. >>

Karl's suggestions:
1) 78K puts you in the neighborhood for a timing chain swap. Dunno for certain
that your mods put more stress on the chain, just mentioning.

2) 10.25:1 compression pistons might ~not~ give you 10.25:1 compression, this
depends on other things like cyl head volume, head gasket thickness, and
whether you have a 400 or a 455 (and an overbore gives higher compression).
BUT, as long as a shallow dish, compression should be improved. Also, 10:1 and
higher should be fed Hi-Octane gasoline. If Karl is not much mistaken, leaded
gas was as much as 96 Octane!

3)*IF* you were using a Q-jet, you would need to jet your carb higher to
account for the higher flow rate from the performance cam. However, you might
be served better in either case by going to a 750 CFM carburetor. 750 CFM will
also be better for high RPM (7000) on a 400cid + engine, particularly if you
intend to "get blown". Brand notwithstanding. 650 is more than adequate for
350's (w\o radical cam) and is OK for stock big blocks. 

4) Have to say that Karl is a faithful Accell user as S.O.M. has a Super coil
with (sigh) the factory resistor wire still inline with the ballast for the
Super Coil.

<<    I also grewup in the sixties and was`nt able to buy as much muscle as
 I would have liked and now that our kids are growin up and movin on, my
 wife and I bought this Olds for show and go.
    The car seems to run quite well as is except for not hookin up the
 14s well. Traction and wheelhop are two areas I could use some advice
 for sure. >>

Try a set of  X/60R15 or so on the rears.
This will give you more rubber to road surface!
Some on the list are advocates of using airbags of adjustable psi inside the
rear coil springs to reduce wheel-hop. These are available from Summit and
Jeg's.

<< Some additional changes I had in mind are 750 DP, E-Performer, Hooker
 Super Comps and port&polish present Eheads or a recently scrounged set
 of Cs. >>

DP may be OK, but Karl not really a Holley-guy. The performer intake will rob
you of power at high RPMs but improve power at low RPM compared to your Torker
intake. Headers are really a matter of choice, but careful selection can be
used to tune your torque peak. C's stock will probably flow close to E's
ported (C's flow the best of any bone stock heads). 

As the E heads are already shaved, Karl would personally continue to alter
modified heads than make non-reversible changes to stock heads. Just his own
personal hallucination. Nothing toworry about.

<< May want to run local 1/4 mi. strip for fun but this would`nt be the norm.
Want to be able to do 200-300mi. trips so would like to stay with present gear
ratio.
    Cosmetics of car fine for now. Thanks, B.D.
   Bob >>

If you want any kind of ~decent~ mileage on your long trips, a lower gear
ratio may be better. On that subject, increasing your tire diameter increases
your final drive ratio, so tire size affects the final gearing (and
traction/wheelspin). With your existing mods, you will not lose much oomph by
going to a 2.93:1 or so gearing.

Uh... Karl has done with work for now, and is somewhat inebriated, and because
of that, this is all that he can think of for the moment.

Good luck!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 15:06:08 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Igor 20

In a message dated 98-11-22 22:35:24 EST, you write:

<< The timing chain went on the 307, so I put in a 455! >>

Hadda replace axle, mightaswell go anti-spin...
(mightaswell prep anti-spin axle for long life....)

Hadda fix carb, mightaswell go Q-jet....

Dropped the muffler, so mightaswell go for full dual exh with cats....

Igor?
Go for it!
Karl is behind you!
(until we get past the "No Passing Zone")     :-)}

Oldsmobiling - what a hobby!

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 15:10:03 -0500 (EST)
From: Anthony Joseph Busack <abusack@indiana.edu>
Subject: [none]

Hello, my name is Anthony Busack.  I have owned a '85 cutlass supreme for
5 years now.  My parents bought it new and I've been a fan of the car
since.  
I am interested in getting on a email list about Cutlass Supremes.  If
anyone has any information or addresses for me, please email me at 
	
	abusack@indiana.edu

Thank you and drive safely!

					fellow automobile enthusiast
						Anthony Busack

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 15:12:05 -0500
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Re: wont turn off (DIFFERENT)

Ben are you using a M S D  Ing., sometimes you have to solder a diode in the
alt. light circut on some of the 6 and 6al boxes   Butch

Ben wrote:

> I've got a different type of "wont turn off"
> I am under the impression it's the volatage regulator, but want some
> oppinions. It took me a while to find the right one that was set right
> and for the same amps as my alternator. I had an aftermarket electronic
> regulator, but that blew out on me and I had to go back stock. Don't
> know where the electronic one came from (other than JC Whitney has them
> for 10 bucks) Here's the prob:
> Car runs, starts and drives fine. When I stop and go to turn off the
> car... It continues running with the key out! The alternator light comes
> on of course cause the charging circiut is open... The ONLY position it
> will turn off in, is REVERSE!!! Weird... Wont kill in park, nuetral,
> drive, nothing but reverse... Thoughts?
> It's a 68 olds 442 400 w/ th-400
> Ben

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 14:29:28 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Newbe

I agree with the 15" wheels and wider tires but not the ladder bars.  You
already have a 4 link so why step down?  You just need to revise the
geometry with a set of the upper bar relocators.  These work extremely
well and if you do a lot of drag racing you can add the adjustible length
tubular upper bars to make it adjustable.  Set up a stock frame El Camino
w/9 inch slicks and no wieght in the bed and it would launch hard enough
to pull the front wheels!  With proper backspacing you should be able to
stuff at least a p275 in the rear (on my 72 had p295's rear and p235's
front).

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>>    I also grewup in the sixties and was`nt able to buy as much muscle as
>> I would have liked and now that our kids are growin up and movin on, my
>> wife and I bought this Olds for show and go.
>>    The car seems to run quite well as is except for not hookin up the
>> 14s well. Traction and wheelhop are two areas I could use some advice
>> for sure.
>
>My advise is that you store those SSII's somewhere and buy a cheaper,
>yet decent looking set of 15" wheels. American Racing has some good
>ones. Then, if you have the money and the Cutlass isn't really a daily
>driver, i'd suggest some Mikey Thompson drag radials. If you don't want
>to go that expensive, try some BFG Radial T/As. Some 255/60s should do
>the trick. Possibly a set of ladder bars would do you well also.
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 16:38:41 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Repro Batteries?

Not sure why this bounced... forwarding.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	mblanken@medaphis.com (Mike Blankenship)
Subject: Repro Batteries?

I am fairly sure that 72 was the first year for side-post battery.  My 72 
service manual shows side-post but the 71 does not.  I bought a reproduction
for my W30.  I have been using it as a "show" Battery. The batterys are sold
dry.  I left mine that way and swap it out at show.  Kind of a pain sometimes.

Mike Blankenship
70 442 W30
70 GTO Judge RAIV
(2)71 442 Convt's
71 Cutlass S
87 Cutlass Salon
95 Corvette

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 16:42:07 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Request h*lp for My Olds' History

Not on the list; respond to L-LBriggs4@email.msn.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Lyndon Briggs" <L-LBriggs4@email.msn.com>
Subject: Request h*lp for My Olds' History

Can anyone h*lp me find manufacturing history & stats on my Olds? I have
the
history of the car from the time it was purchased from "Arrow Oldsmobile" in
Milwaukee, Wi. My mother purchased this '79 Cutlass Supreme Brougham from
them. The car was originally ordered to be a "Demo", but when she saw the
vehicle she fell in love with it and had to have it!

    Now, 20 yrs., and 113K miles later, she has given it to me for my 37th
birthday. I know the car was always very special to her and she babied it
even more than me! :>) I know the dealership ordered it with special options
because it was to be a demo, and I have yet to see another with all the same
options. I was wondering how many like it were manufactured. Except for
things like tires, battery, etc. this car is still original. It is still in
great shape and I'm doing my best to keep it that way. The only thing added
to the vehicle was window tinting to protect the black volure interior w/
white pinstripes from the hot Arizona sun when she lived there. It also has
a stanless steel "Landaue" top, which seems to be a rare option. The other
thing I don't understand is the short VIN with a * in front of it. This car
was always stored in the winter, and now that I live in Daytona Beach, FL, I
guess it will never see snow!

    I would be more than happy to e-mail pictures and VIN to anyone that can
help me find the manufacturing stats and history on this "Black Beauty".

                                                                    L. R.
Briggs

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 15:42:04 -0500
From: Bob Dale <bctad5@toolcity.net>
Subject: rear geometry

Where might I buy some upper bar relocators? adj.length tubular bars? Do
ya think the air bags work well with this set up? Sounds like these 3
modifications may be my ticket to better traction. I`m considering a
mild converter as well. Any suggestions? Any handling drawbacks to these
mods? Thanks to all for your responses.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 12:46:50 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: HEATER CORE REPLACEMENT

My experience was with a '72 LeMans but I think the innards are
the same. Comments below...

> 1. In engine compartment remove five attaching nuts from blower.
> The lower outboard nut is removed by drilling a 3/4" hole through
> fender filler panel at dimple, or if no dimple is provided,
> disconnect the right fender at the bottom and block it away from
> the body. Remove nut through this opening.

Don't drill the fender; block it outwards. Specifically, if you unbolt
the fender at bottom rear and along the perimeter of the wheel well
roughly two-thirds of the way towards the front, plus two or three
bolts inside the wheel well (take the front wheel off to see them),
you can yank the lower end of the fender outwards, and push the rear
half of the wheel well forwards, giving yourself enough room to work.
Jamming a couple of pieces of two-by-four in there will hold it open.

Now would be a good time to replace the blower motor as well, since
you've come this far.

You also need to release some of the bolts around the perimeter of the
heater/A/C housing which serve to hold the interior cover on as well.
IOW, not all the bolts visible on the firewall need to be undone; the
ones that hold only the outside housing to the firewall can be left 
alone. The trick is to tell the difference. (I think they're slightly
smaller than the through-bolts holding the interior cover as well.)

> But if memory serves the body style between '70 and '71 isn't all 
> that different.  Good luck and may the force be with you.

Yeah, when I was done I figured I was now an expert at something I was
not likely to ever need to do again.  :-)

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 15:44:20 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: I need TH400 long/short question

Is the following statement correct? Or have I been mislead?

The only difference that using a long tailshft 400 versus the short
tailshaft is that you'll have to get your driveshaft cut a few inches
shorter. Your driveshaft will have to be shortened anyway. Right?

Randy
________

Randy, yes, other people on the list have done this.  To be honest, I don't
know why GM elected to have two different trans lengths unless there was a
good reason (they aren't in the habit of spending engineering money when
they don't have to).  The thing about the driveshaft is that if you get the
correct trans, you will likely also be able to get the correct driveshaft
and thus not need to spend the money on a custom unit.  I prefer to use
factory parts where I can as they tend to have fewer problems.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 15:52:33 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bye.

In a message dated 11/22/98 9:13:42 PM EST, dougs_nova@hotmail.com writes:

<<  I don't want to be associated with it in
 any way. When I get out of on my own, screw the 442, I'll take
 a Bow Tie.
    -Doug >>

Doug,
You think you were slighted by insensitive remarks. How is what you're saying
any different? BTW if you do get a 442, I doubt if the "bowtie's" gonna help
you much.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 16:18:36 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Nitrous & 455

Has anyone out there ever run Nitrous?
________

Yep.  Ran a plate style unit on a 455.  This particular application used
10.5:1 forged pistons (with 78 cc chambers, so real CR was likely closer to
9.5).  The motor was otherwise a fresh, relatively stock rebuild.
Induction was an old Edelbrock dual quad intake with a pair of 500 cfm AFB
carbs and a custom nitrous plate built by NOS (one of the advantages of
living in SoCal is that you can drive over to these places, instead of
having to mail order stuff - bring them the manifold and a week later they
have a custom plate fabricated).  The car was a 71 Cutlass with a
switch-pitch TH400, 3.42 posi gears, and 29 x 10 inch slicks.  The car was
driven to the track, and with absolutely no attempt to tune the
combination, it ran 13.50s without the nitrous and 11.95@ 115.5mph with.  I
suspect that with some tuning of the combo and steeper gears, the car would
have hit low elevens or high tens (unfortunately, this is the car that got
away in the first divorce).

As for adding nitrous to a motor, keep in mind that you'll be increasing
cylinder pressure, just as you would if you'd added a blower.  The motor
must be build with this in mind in order for it to survive.  Yes, you can
add nitrous to a stock engine, but, depending on how much juice you use,
you may have a time bomb on your hands; it would be just like bolting a
blower on the same engine.  A properly built motor will take the nitrous
with no problem, and will make more power.  Note, however, that the gains
you get will be a function of how built the motor is to start with.  A
low-po smog motor will have a greater percentage gain from the addition of
nitrous (though obviously a lower total output) than a built motor.

As for when to bring the nitrous in, that, unfortunately, depends.  In my
application, I brought it in right off the line, and because I didn't have
enough gear, the car still bogged off the line.  Your specific application
will dictate the turn-on times.  The actual control of the nitrous (and the
additional fuel which must also be sprayed at the same time) is done with
solenoid valves.  These can be triggered in many ways.  I used a manual
pushbutton through a relay.  I've also seen a throttle switch (similar in
operation to the kickdown switch on a TH400), as well as more sophisticated
computer controls which are RPM sensitive.  For the ultimate tuning, there
are multi-stage systems which will spray part of the nitrous shot off the
line, then once the tires hook up the flow rate is increased to increase
the power level.  As the old saying goes, speed costs money, how fast do
you want to go?

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 16:22:39 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 Buildup

In a message dated 11/23/98 8:50:50 AM Pacific Standard Time,
James.E.Brady.1@gsfc.nasa.gov writes:

<< Igor,
 	I have never ported and/or polished but willing to try(I now of at 
least
 two people who have and can assist.)  I would like a larger cam along with
 torque converter but really want to leave the rear alone.  Looking more
 toward passing power, not off the line power.  How long to the stock valve
 springs hold up?  I am also looking to retain the exhaust manifolds.  Am I
 making this hard enough?  Still want quiet mufflers, remember wife and kids
 will spend time with me in this car.  Got the Chevy for shear volume!
 
 Jim Brady >>


     Jim, your building a 455 I assume? I am building a 403, and since the
cams are the same, I think I can help some (and offer my opinion on others) I
would talk to a "speed shop" about the valve springs, depending on what cam
you are going to put in. They SHOULD call the cam company and ask what they
recommend. Valve springs are matched to the cam, and for good reason. You
don't want valve float at low RPM's. I am putting in a dual pattern (good idea
if running restrictive exhaust, short of duals, you are, plus, supposed better
gas mileage than stock!) Something like .486 lift..I can get the specs if you
want...supposedly the biggest you will want to go with stock convertor. Power
band of the cam starts around 1500, and goes to 3500+ without looking at the
specs.
     Since you are talking passing power, I would forget a higher stall
converter..less mileage, more transmission wear. Stalls are good for taking
off..getting the motor into it's torque/hp curve before you leave the
line...once you are moving, not much, if any, difference. 
      Someone mentioned headers..this is my pet peeve...I hate them. People
ALWAYS have problems with leaks, rust, incorrect fit, impossible to get to
plugs, etc. Also, I asked on 2 different lists, if anyone had gone from true
dual exhaust to headers, and had a time slip from the track to prove it was
faster with headers. Surprise, no one did. You look at header literature and
they claim anywhere from 15-30 hp gains on the motor. I would be willing to
bet, since THEY don't mention it, is that gain is going from single exhaust to
headers..I bet that the difference from true dual to headers is quite small,
otherwise more car makers, (like GM) would have used them on their performance
cars in the late 60's early 70's. Just my ideas, and if you want any
cam/spring specs or numbers, feel free to e-mail me.  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 16:29:48 EST
From: RECJAN001@aol.com
Subject: olds

yes can you send me more info on my 72 olds 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 16:41:30 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Headers (was: 455 Buildup)

...Someone mentioned headers..this is my pet peeve...I hate them. People
ALWAYS have problems with leaks, rust, incorrect fit, impossible to get to
plugs, etc...
_________

While the plug accessibility is usually a problem with headers
(particularly on Type-C cars), Olds motors do not have this problem.  The
plugs are significantly higher than the exhaust ports, with the result that
the headers do not enter into plug accessibility at all.  This is
unfortunately not all good news, however, as the "high" plug location is
actually a result of Olds' crummy exhaust port design.  :-(

As for the benefits of headers, I feel that there is a definite benefit to
having true tuned equal length headers in a performance application.
Unfortunately, most headers are neither tuned nor equal length, so you may
be correct in your back-to-back assessments.  As for leaks, while headers
clearly have more problems than cast manifolds (which is why you never saw
them from the factory before the advent of stainless headers with
manifold-style flanges), proper installation can help a lot.  Mr. Gasket
now has an embossed solid copper exhaust flange gasket for Oldsmobiles
(amazing, isn't it), as well as their copper collector gaskets.  These
should help a lot.  I'm planning to try a set on my 69.  The rust problem
is significantly reduced with a ceramic metallic coating like HPC or Jet
Hot.

Joe Padavano
padavnao.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 14:46:04 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 455 Buildup

I agree that sometimes headers can be a pain and leak (on OLDS especially
because of the 3 bolt thing).  But from what I remember from looking at the
headers I got to try on my Delta (and these are the ones he would be putting
on his Delta) there is no problems fitting and absolutely no problems to get
at the plugs.  Olds plugs are above the exhaust runners, not beside them.
On CHEVY motor, headers make plug changes a real pain, cause they cover
them.  However, on most olds (and especially on a big car like that) there
should be no problem.  My friend went from stock exhaust (dual) to headers
and dual on his 350 Chevy and it made tons of difference.  I wish I could
run headers.  As far as noise! My 455 makes enough induction roar even if I
put a stock air-cleaner on that it turns peoples heads when I step on it.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 16:52:40 -0500
From: retrotek@phoenixat.com
Subject: Re: Turkey Rod Run Daytona

Bill Gochenour wrote:

> 
> When is this function being held at Daytona? I've just recently relocatd
> to Orlando and would like to attend, please let me know.
> 
> Thanks !
> 
> --
> 
> Bill !
> 

It's this Thurs. thru Sunday.  If you want/need any Olds parts you better get
there early.  They never have very much and it goes quick.

Robin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 14:49:09 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: I need TH400 long/short question

I installed a long-tail TH400 in my '81 Delta in place of a TH250.  I had to
have the driveshaft shortened and the yoke changed.  I kept the driveshaft
from the car I got the TH400 from, so they simply used that driveshaft and
just shortened it a bit.  Cost me $50 Canadian, works great.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 16:48:43 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: 455 Buildup

>
>Let's once again put to rest this misnomer which Mondello continues to
>perpetuate.  EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) is a pollution control system
>which lives in the intake manifold.  The issue with the heads is the
>incorporation of "bumps" in the exhaust ports to allow the accommodation of
>the air injection system (A.I.R. - air injector reactor, aka a smog pump).
>A.I.R. was used on 66-67 California cars only, then on later cars, though
>I'm not quite sure of the exact years.

Joe,
A.I.R. first showed up on 49 state cars in 1980.
Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 16:53:52 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: MATT 88 Cutlass Supreme Int

Note that this is the FWD 2.8 v6 powered Cutlass Supreme, not the hold over
RWD 307 powered "Cutlass Supreme Classic" also sold in 1988.
Regards,
Fred
- -----Original Message-----
From: Supafli50@aol.com <Supafli50@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, November 23, 1998 1:39 PM
Subject: Re: MATT 88 Cutlass Supreme Int


>The Int.  Stands for International Edition. It has an emblem on the hood
with
>7 or 8 different flags and the interior is a lot nicer.  It was the luxury
>edition of the Cutlass I guess.  Lumbar seats and different center console
>that runs to the bottom of the dash instead of the open pass-thru floor.
>
>Matt
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 15:51:33 -0600
From: <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: I need TH400 long/short question

Igor T. '81 DRB 455 wrote:
> 
> I installed a long-tail TH400 in my '81 Delta in place of a TH250.  I had to
> have the driveshaft shortened and the yoke changed.  I kept the driveshaft
> from the car I got the TH400 from, so they simply used that driveshaft and
> just shortened it a bit.  Cost me $50 Canadian, works great.
> 
> Igor Todorovic
> 
> 1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)

The TH-400 actually have 3 different tailshaft housings, but the longest
length is pretty rare. The shortshaft trannies are preferred for
high-performance, because the longshaft trannies tend to crack under
repeated abuse. Anyone in Dallas who needs a TH-400, email me privately,
I found a sizeable stash - $75 each plus $25 core, and they are all BOP,
shortshaft trannies. The are junkyard pieces and will need to be
rebuilt. He also has a fairly decent collection of TH-2004R's, and I saw
3 KZF trannies from the 442's. I wish I could share this find with all
of you, but it is a small junkyard, and the old man has no interest in
shipping.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme
.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 15:53:36 -0600
From: <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Machine work prices

There has been lots of talk about engine buildups and the required
machine work that comes with it. There seems to still be a lot of
concern about the price of hardened seats and etc. In Dallas, (Blaine's
Motor Supply particularily, but majority of machine shops in general)
things like hardened exhaust seats, PC seals, 3-angle valve jobs and new
valves are just common everyday, we do it to everything work. Blaine's
will do everything listed above, plus magnaflux are part of there
regular service rebuilds. The price? BB Olds heads, any casting, $75 (a
piece) exchange.


Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme
.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 14:02:20 -0800
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Signing off

Hi everyone,

I am going through some personal problems right now so I am going to
sign
off the list to clear my mind.  I don't know if I am going to sign back
on
at a later date.

Later...
- -- 
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 14:02:49 -0800
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: (no subject)

unsubscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 17:11:05 -0200
From: BRIAN SHANKLE <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: 1985 442 FOR SALE

Oh, I wish I hadn't bought that Brougham!  You don't want one, do you?

Frank Montero wrote:
> 
> WHITE/GRAY EXT.
> BLUE INT.
> T-TOPS
> EXCELLENT CONDITION
> BEST OFFER TAKES
> 
> I CAN BE REACHED @ 516-373-4457
> LOCATED IN SUFFOLK COUNTY, NY (LONG ISLAND)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 17:14:03 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 Buildup

In a message dated 11/23/98 1:59:35 PM Pacific Standard Time,
FSNissen@Worldnet.ATT.NET writes:

<< Joe,
 A.I.R. first showed up on 49 state cars in 1980.
 Regards,
 Fred >>

     They had AIR pumps all the way back to at least '66. For example, a '66
Olds F85 6 cylinder w/power steering, used the same pump as a '67 327
Camaro..however, there is no differentiation between CA and federal, so maybe
only CA had them for a long time..Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 17:16:39 -0200
From: BRIAN SHANKLE <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: daytime running lights

How much trouble was it/will it be to hook these lights up to your car?
Mostly for curiosity's sake, but it sounds like a pretty cool thing to
have and if I did decide to do it, that ain't a bad price for what you
get.
Brian.

JonKrisInc@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 11/22/98 11:18:56 PM EST, w.d.arnold@lmco.com writes:
> 
> << I just checked JC Whitney and they have 2 kits listed (page 109):
>  (1) Audiovox  >> Automatic on/off with the ign switch and delay off of
>  30,60, or 90 secs.  $40
>  (2) No Name brand >> Auto on/off , no delay option listed, low voltage (24%
>  less voltage) .   $25
>   >>
> 
> Donny,
> Thanks for the info. Turns out GM makes a twilight sentinel with optional
> daytime running lights.Auotmatically turns lights on/off at dusk plus has a
> parking brake disable feature that allows you to warm up the car with the
> lights out. The low beams operate at reduced intensity sensing the changing
> light levels to prevent headlight flicker. It was $72, but then it does do
> more and is all GM. If anyone is interested, it's #12341366 Goodwrench
> twilight sentinel.
> Thanks for steering me in the right direction.
> Bruce
> 75 Delta 88 Conv. (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 14:13:54 PST
From: "scott slater" <slater442w30@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Why do you hate 

First off were not Yall.  Now that thats over with how about the fact 
that most NOT ALL Ch*vy owners brag about their cars a lot and call 
Oldsmobiles (grandma cars).  Personally I haven't been beat by a Ch*vy 
yet and until that day I won't respect bragging chevy owners.  I 
personally don't hate Ch*vys but if I owned one it would have an Olds 
engine in it.

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 17:14:22 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Re: Signing off

Chris......

     GOOD LUCK with whatever your problems might be..!! Hope you still can 
enjoy the 
upcoming holiday season and come on back whenever things get worked out in 
your 
life..!!

Take care dude and "Happy Holidays.!!!

Mike....................


Hi everyone,

I am going through some personal problems right now so I am going to
sign
off the list to clear my mind.  I don't know if I am going to sign back
on
at a later date.

Later...
- -- 
Chris Sparks
68 442 SC - Frosty
68 442 HT - Scarlet
68 442 HT - Saffron
82 DRB    - Dr. "B"
http://www.catalina-inter.net/mrada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 17:34:28 -0200
From: BRIAN SHANKLE <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: yet another carb question

Now I understand!  I know that the O2 sensor is new, because I changed
it just last month.  The problem occured both before and after the
sensor change, and the old one wasn't bad enough for me to suspect it,
but I did change it so I would know its history for sure (only had the
car about eight weeks).  About two weeks ago the bearings went in the
air pump.  I presume it was still working, but the noise got really bad.
I took the belt off of it to make sure that's what it was, and just
haven't gotten around to replacing it.  The car doesn't seem to run any
differently without the air pump, since I was having these problems
before.  I do want to get another one just for the sake of having a
complete and fully functioning engine compartment.  Now to refer back to
Chilton's shop manual to see (funny how I never looked) if they also
offer any suggestions for repairs to this trouble code.  Probably not,
since nothing beats human interaction, even if it is via computer.
Thanks for your help,
Brian.

Bob Blanchard wrote:
> 
> At 10:57 PM 11/22/98 -0200, you wrote:
> >Wheew!  I have decided to use a replacement Q-jet, especially after all
> >of that!  Your mentioning Open and closed loop piques my curiosity,
> >mostly because I don't understand the terminology.  The only trouble
> >code I get is 45, which Chilton says occurs only after the engine has
> >been running in closed loop for five minutes.  I haven't seen any
> >reccommended causes/fixes for this in the book.  Any ideas, other tha
> >the carb?  I ask because I am really tired of thinking about that thing,
> >probably as much as everyone is tired of hearing about it.
> >thank you,
> >Brian.
> >
> closed loop means that that there is a closed circuit (computer
> sensor and wiring) open loop means that the ECM is ignoring a sensor.
> 
> "45" means rich exhaust (as picked up bye the oxy sensor)
> check for fuel in you evaporative system and try cleaning or replacing
> the oxy sensor.
>    Does this car have a dual catalist catalitic convertor?
> 
> (these have a reducing catalist and a oxydizing catalist. these devices
> get honorable mention in the "Pile do-dad on top of gadget in a atempt
> to make a poorly concieved idea to work" method of emission controls)
> 
>   On these cars the air pump pumps air into the head (air tubes) during
> warm-up and into the converor during warm running. During warm-up the
> oxy sensor is in open loop and not operating (so it isn't reading the extra
> air in the exhaust) when the engine is warm the oxy sensor comes on line
> and the air pump pumps air into the convertor. If the pump doesn't switch
> over, the oxy sensor sensor tells the ECM that the engine is lean, when is
> isn't, now the M/C solenoid (remember the M/C solenoid?) enriches the
> mixture. This extra rich exhaust can coat the oxy sensor and cause it to 
fail.
> 
> so, check the oxy sensor and if it is crudded up look at the air pump.

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1620
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