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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1698


oldsmobile-digest       Monday, January 4 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1698



UNBOUNCE: My New Carb
adds on the list
Re: RE weather
RE: RE weather
Re: RE weather
Re: RE weather
Re: Top Speeds
Supercars...was 66 wipers
Re: Top Speeds
Speaking of high speed
Re: Top Speeds
temp guage selection
Who has a CCC 455?
vin code 9 in a B-body?
Re: temp guage selection
Speaking of 4-speeds
UPDATE: How do I isolate bad cylinder/bearing?
Re: temp guage selection
Re: Speaking of 4-speeds
Power Steering Installation
Re: temp guage selection
Re: adds posted to the list
Re: temp guage selection
Re: UPDATE: How do I isolate bad cylinder/bearing?
Re: UPDATE: How do I isolate bad cylinder/bearing?
72 Windshield Molding
Humor: 23 Basic Rules For Driving In St. Louis
Re:Humor: 23 Basic Rules For Driving In St. Louis
Who is in  St. Louis, by the way?  Or Missour?
Re: Who is in  St. Louis, by the way?  Or Missour?
Oldsmobile slot car racing!
Re: Who is in  St. Louis, by the way?  Or Missour?
ID-ing a 442
Re: Who is in  St. Louis, by the way?  Or Missour?
Re: Humor: 23 Basic Rules For Driving In St. Louis
Re: ID-ing a 442
Non-Olds:  New Superspeedway
Re: ID-ing a 442
Re: Humor: 23 Basic Rules For Driving In St. Louis
Re: temp guage selection
Re: ID-ing a 442
Re: My New Carb
Re: ID-ing a 442
Re: Countdown to ADMIN: Re: RE weather
Re: page
Re: Electric Trouble Shooting Manuals For Sale
Re: Fisher Body Manuals For Sale
Re: Diesel Service Manuals
Re: Service Manuals For Sale
Re: Re:adds on the list
Re: Countdown to ADMIN: Re: RE weather
Re: parts for sale
Re: Need help with piston rings

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 16:19:29 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: My New Carb

Forgot to forward this yesterday... 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	senator@mail.chorus.net
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: My New Carb

Ok guys and gals, here's the first installment of my latest saga:
Rebuilding a junkyard carb (Q-jet, of course) to put on my '78 Cutlass
Supreme (350cid, TH-350, 3:42 limited-slip).
I pulled it off of some old Firebird, maybe a 1976?  The number on the
carburetor itself is 17056264.  I can't find it in any of my books.
Anyhow, I was wondering: 1)Is this a 1976 Pontiac carb?  Any info is
appreciated.  2)What does DB mean, when it is on the metering rods?  3)How
do you tell what kind of jets you have if there's no number on them?  4)If
the carb is designed to have an "idle compensator assembly", and it is
missing, will it still work?

Also, I am in digest mode, so please send all replies to
senator@mail.chorus.net.

Bob
'78 CS

P.S. - I've still got those SSIII's (14x6) fr*e to a good home!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 15:40:11 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: adds on the list

Hello all,
 I have recently learned who is the list boss. I understand that he feels the 
commercial adds are more good than
harm. That's good enough for me. I'll zip my lip on the subject.
Dave Brode
64 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 15:33:43 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: RE weather

"MR. COSTANZO", 
Damn, using titles now, your still Ray to me!!
Lou
PS Sucks don't it? 
- ----------
> From: Mr. Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: RE weather
> Date: Saturday, January 02, 1999 10:18 PM
> 
> Yeah,
> wish you hadn't mentioned it.  I lived in AZ till 6 months ago.  this pa
> weather is the pits.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 16:47:11 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: RE weather

My brother didn't like the fact that everything said Ray when he sent stuff
to his IH list.  Now I have a better title anyway.  And I'm not Ray to you,
I am Master Costanzo!

yeah, does suck

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Lou Biggs
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 1999 4:34 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: RE weather


"MR. COSTANZO",
Damn, using titles now, your still Ray to me!!
Lou
PS Sucks don't it?
- ----------
> From: Mr. Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: RE weather
> Date: Saturday, January 02, 1999 10:18 PM
>
> Yeah,
> wish you hadn't mentioned it.  I lived in AZ till 6 months ago.  this pa
> weather is the pits.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 15:52:31 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: RE weather

Greg, 
We do you appreciate you sharing with us from time to time, but you do not
have to share these "Canadian Cold Fronts" with us, however we do
appreciate the gesture, but no thanks next time!! 
Lou B
PS What weight of oil do you use in wintertime? (OLDS content), seriously.
- ----------
> From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: RE weather

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 15:59:00 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: RE weather

Yes, MASTER, sound like Jeannie, don't look like her however, thanks God,
on second thought, may have more fun! 
Lou
PS Not in the bottle, ON the bottle!
- ----------
> From: Master Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: RE weather
> Date: Sunday, January 03, 1999 3:47 PM
> 
> My brother didn't like the fact that everything said Ray when he sent
stuff
> to his IH list.  Now I have a better title anyway.  And I'm not Ray to
you,
> I am Master Costanzo!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 16:09:41 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Top Speeds

>
>CC-IROC-SS wrote:
><snip>
>So to push your "factory stock" car to 145 is at least flirting with
disaster, a
>missile destined for lack of control even when going strait.....
>
>I don't care what brand of car except a few of the exotics available that
>aren't included here. It's irresponsible for the factory to post, no brag,
>that a cars top end is 142. It simply is not safe with a stock equipped,
>mass produced car.

I agree with much of what you say but have to take exception
to this part.  The blanket statement that any factory statement
as to top speed is irresponsible is rather short sighted.  Take
for instance just about any german car.  These cars are
designed to be driven at/above 100 mph.  Simply because
the domestic manufacturers have had difficulty making a car
stable at 80 doesn't mean that all cars fall into the same
category.  Let's not forget that in Montana (I think that's it) they
have no daytime speed limit.  And out west, through the desert
where you have no worry of intersections and such, it is not
uncommon to see vehicles doing 100 mph plus.  Granted, this
is still illegal, but then again not the same as in an urban area
either.

I am of the general opinion that we have to many safety warnings
and cautions about everything in our lives.  Every time you turn
around something else is gonna kill you.  I also believe many of
the speed limits of freeways/interstates are too low.  I tend to
drive fast when the situation permits (traffic, weather) and have
the tickets to prove it, but I also have no accident's either.  I also
make sure my vehicle is mechanically sound to run fast.  If Joe
Shmoe want to run 130 with 4 bald tires I'm not gonna stop
him, just get out of his way.  His death will be a blessing to us
all since he won't dillute the gene pool with his stupidity.

The problem isn't so much driving fast and overdriving the car, it's
the lack of proper driver education and training.  Let's be fair here,
how many times have you run up on somebody doing 55 in the
left lane?  Traffics flowing at 65 and everyone jumps in the right
lane and passes on the right, which is illegal most states.  In
germany on the autobahn when I was travelling at 120 (in my '72
Cutlass ~Olds Content~) and getting passed, I felt a lot safer than
I do on most interstates here in the states because people there
actually know how to drive.  Some people that go over there and
think they drive like maniacs but they don't understand thier laws
are different than ours.  Good example is that if your on the
autobahn in an unlimited speed section in the left hand lane, and
you get rear-ended, it's automatically your fault, no questions
asked.  Why?  Because there, like here, your only suppossed to
use the left lane to pass, and passing on the right is strictly
enforced.  OK, I'm rambling now but the non-flame, non-personal,
non-arguement, non-inciteful intended point is that for vehicles
kept in proper mechanical shape high speed is not the problem
(not necessarily 140+) but where you do it, conditions, and the
people around you that don't know how to drive is the thing
that should be worried about.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 17:18:14 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Supercars...was 66 wipers

In a message dated 1/3/99 2:23:07 AM Central Standard Time,
supercars@transport.com writes:

<< Hope this helps.  Or for that matter makes sense.
 (I've been here for almost two days straight doing
 inventory and all the other year end fun stuff). 
  >>
...Mr. Rollins...if you find that you folks are "over" on your iventory...I'll
take the excess off your hands to make it right...haha

   Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 16:54:49 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Top Speeds

Mike, 
right, was in Nevada in 1968, (Im old), brand new 1968 Vette, from Death
Valley to Vegas, 300 hp 350, auto w/air, floored it leaving Death Valley,
went to 117 mph, thats flat out, for 70 or 80 miles, no traffic, no one
passes on right, piece if cake, wish it had more zip. drivers license are
like lottery tickets, got a buck, you're in! Saw some old people, older
than me, take the eye test 7 or 8 times, couldn't see sh*t, examiner was
older then they were, kept giving them hints, like" dont you see it, up
there on the right, a joke really, except they're coming at you in a large
Buick. I was bitched at for using my right foot on the brake, drove sprint
cars, modified, use left foot always at turns, watch the Winston cup guys,
left foot for brake, almost didn't pass the darn test. not saying 18 year
olds should be goofy and do dumb stuff, (and they do), but our requirements
leave a lot to be desired!
Lou 
 
- ----------
> From: mbloomer <mbloomer@gateway.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> I agree with much of what you say but have to take exception
> to this part.  The blanket statement that any factory statement
> as to top speed is irresponsible is rather short sighted.  Take
> for instance just about any german car.  These cars are
> designed to be driven at/above 100 mph.  Simply because
> the domestic manufacturers have had difficulty making a car
> stable at 80 doesn't mean that all cars fall into the same
> category.  Let's not forget that in Montana (I think that's it) they
> have no daytime speed limit.  And out west, through the desert
> where you have no worry of intersections and such, it is not
> uncommon to see vehicles doing 100 mph plus.  Granted, this
> is still illegal, but then again not the same as in an urban area
> either.
> 
> I am of the general opinion that we have to many safety warnings
> and cautions about everything in our lives.  Every time you turn
> around something else is gonna kill you.  I also believe many of
> the speed limits of freeways/interstates are too low.  I tend to
> drive fast when the situation permits (traffic, weather) and have
> the tickets to prove it, but I also have no accident's either.  I also
> make sure my vehicle is mechanically sound to run fast.  If Joe
> Shmoe want to run 130 with 4 bald tires I'm not gonna stop
> him, just get out of his way.  His death will be a blessing to us
> all since he won't dillute the gene pool with his stupidity.
> 
> The problem isn't so much driving fast and overdriving the car, it's
> the lack of proper driver education and training.  Let's be fair here,
> how many times have you run up on somebody doing 55 in the
> left lane?  Traffics flowing at 65 and everyone jumps in the right
> lane and passes on the right, which is illegal most states.  In
> germany on the autobahn when I was travelling at 120 (in my '72
> Cutlass ~Olds Content~) and getting passed, I felt a lot safer than
> I do on most interstates here in the states because people there
> actually know how to drive.  Some people that go over there and
> think they drive like maniacs but they don't understand thier laws
> are different than ours.  Good example is that if your on the
> autobahn in an unlimited speed section in the left hand lane, and
> you get rear-ended, it's automatically your fault, no questions
> asked.  Why?  Because there, like here, your only suppossed to
> use the left lane to pass, and passing on the right is strictly
> enforced.  OK, I'm rambling now but the non-flame, non-personal,
> non-arguement, non-inciteful intended point is that for vehicles
> kept in proper mechanical shape high speed is not the problem
> (not necessarily 140+) but where you do it, conditions, and the
> people around you that don't know how to drive is the thing
> that should be worried about.
> 
> Mike B
> mbloomer@gateway.net
> ICQ# 19113713
> 72 Cutlass S (RIP)
> 68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 16:08:28 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Speaking of high speed

Bit of trivia here.  I'd mentioned it on the classic list a couple years ago,
but with the new surge of high-speed talks, I'll mention it again.  It was a
question posed in our suspension&alignment class in college.  Relative to the
ground surface, with a car going 60 mph, what speed is the tire moving at
various points of the tread? (i.e., top, bottom, front, and rear)

                         top 
                          __
                    rear /  \ front  
_________________________\__/____________ direction of travel --->
                        bottom
    _> 
   / > direction of rotation
   \_  


OK.  From the road surface perspective, the tire is doing ~what~?

Possibly easier on the brain to think of a track-based "wheel" like on a dozer
or cat or something.  Function is identical, as far as the tread is concerned.

The bottom is stationary to the road.  Logical, cuz if it was moving, it'd be
burning out...  It's relative speed would be zero.  Easy to watch on a track
setup.

Front and back?  They're moving just as fast as the vehicle, which is 60 miles
per hour.  Again, easy to spot, if watching a tracked-dozer moving.

Top?  Here's where things get messy.  In order for the tread to get around to
the ground again, it has to speed up.  At the top of the tread, that rubber is
going 120 mph, 2x the speed of the vehicle.  Only to slow down in front, in 
time
to stop when it hits the ground.

If you were to put a mark on the tread edge of a tire, and mount a camera to 
the
fender, you could watch that mark go through it's paces.  From stop, up to 120,
back to stop, over and over again.  

I've watched videos showing this, it's quite an eye-opener.  What happens, at
higher speeds, you'll see a "ripple" or "wave" happening in the tread, 
resulting
from the extreme velocity changes going on.  Keep in mind, the vehicle's weight
is causing the bottom of the tread to "flatten out" so in addition to a speed
change, it's also getting a shape change.  Repeatedly.  The faster the tire is
moving, the worse the "ripple" happens after the flattening out.  (the back
portion of the tire)  This becomes quite violent on a tire with insufficient 
air
pressure.

What's this mean to ~us~ here?  When you're going 130, the each tread section 
is
repeatedly running up to 260 mph and then stopping.  Over and over.  Running a
few psi low?  Look for your tread to start seperating.  Relatively quickly.

Spinning on ice?  Or doing a burnout?  What's it doing to your tire?  Not only
is the tire spinning up violently like a high speed run, but if you're running
an open differential, that tire is already spinning twice as fast as the
speedometer is showing.  ~SO~ if you're doing a 1-wheel wonder smoke show, and
your speedo shows 90 (I've been here...  on ice at least...  dry pavement is a
lot slower, usually) that one tire is spinning 180 miles per hour.  And the
~TREAD~ at top, is flying along at a mild 360 mph!  And stopping.  and 
going... 
and stopping.  Try stopping ~anything~ going 360 mph!  Don't work...  That's 
why
axles snap when dry pavement gets found.  That's why tires put up such a fight
when doing burnouts...  That's why they don't last nearly as long...  At least
that's ~one~ of the reasons for it, anyway.  That's also part of why the speed
ratings on tires are so low, even though you ~know~ that tire will go much
faster than it's rated speed.  Possibly even for sustained times.  There's
violent stuff going on with the tread, so they'll put safety ratings that are a
bit reserved, just to cover their butts, and keep your's safe.  

Just some trivial food for thought here...

BTW, this whole scenario can be taken respective to the vehicle, too, at which
the top would only be running 60 mph, sides, zero, and bottom, ~minus~ 60 mph. 
Both perspectives will yield the same pressures on the tire, and allow similar
arguements.
  
- -- 

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 16:14:30 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Top Speeds

> went to 117 mph, thats flat out, for 70 or 80 miles, no traffic, 

Reminds me of a trip I'd taken to Billings one weekend.  Had a car audio show 
to
judge down there, and had 250 miles of open road to take up...  Get to this one
~looooong~ desolate stretch, and I stuck 'er to about 90.  Just a brisk trot 
for
the Rockit, back then...  Was kinda suprised at the amount of traffic there,
though...  Equally suprised that I had to ~work~ to pass most of 'em...  
Shocked
the crap out of me, when I checked my mirror, and saw an old (70-ish) ford
pickup come up on me, and pass me like I was standing still.  (Yep, I was
~Still~ going 90+!) Truck gets beside me, I see some elderly man driving it!  I
swear he had to be in his 80's!  And ~I~ had been worried about cops... 
Sheesh!  Well, the last half of that stretch went a bit quicker ;)

- -- 

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 18:25:48 -0500
From: "Bill Reilly" <wjreilly@erols.com>
Subject: temp guage selection

Hey gang,

I'm coming close to finishing up my Cutlass project and getting this thing
on the road again.  One thing I need some advive on is the selection of
sending units for the intake manifold.

Background, if you're unfamiliar with my project:  a 1985 307 to 1970 Toro
455 swap, and I'm keeping the computer control system in the '85.

My 307 had three ports with sensors in the intake manifold.  1 port for EFE
control, one for temp guage, and one for something else.
What's that third one for?  Is it important? I can't find reference to it in
my Service manual.

Second:  the 455 has only 2 ports (which is no problem since I'm dropping
the EFE), but they are diferent in size compared to the 307, so I can't swap
the 307 sending units into the 455.  Will the units from the 455 work with
and connect up to my electrical system?  That third sensor in my 307 intake,
is that similar to what would be in the second port of the 455 intake.  If
it's not,  are there any suggestions on how to adapt a smaller diameter
sending unit to a larger diameter port.

Thanks in advance,

Bill Reilly
mailto: wjreilly@erols.com
Web Page: (Not yet)

My Garage:
'83 Cutlass Ciera
'84 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 18:34:14 -0500
From: "Bill Reilly" <wjreilly@erols.com>
Subject: Who has a CCC 455?

I know one or two people out there have a computer controlled 455 in their
ride.

 I would enjoy discussing with you any problems you encountered, tips and
suggestions, and just general info on what you did to get that system
working correctly.  As I am attempting to finish up my CCC 455 project.

Please e-mail me direct.  Thank you,

Bill Reilly
mailto: wjreilly@erols.com
Web Page: (Not yet)

My Garage:
'83 Cutlass Ciera
'84 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 18:43:57 -0500
From: "Bill Reilly" <wjreilly@erols.com>
Subject: vin code 9 in a B-body?

So, I'm reading through my 1985 Olds Service manual and there was this
caption under a diagram that caught my attention.

On Page 6D-10 Engine Electrical
Fig. 9 Battery cables- B series, Vin 9, N & Y

We all know that engine combo wasn't available in that Olds.  So that's an
interesting typo.  Almost didn't even notice it.

Bill Reilly
mailto: wjreilly@erols.com
Web Page: (Not yet)

My Garage:
'83 Cutlass Ciera
'84 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 17:51:45 -0600
From: "Greg" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: temp guage selection

I can't solve all your problems, but I know there are brass thread reducers
to put small fittings into large holes.  Edelbrock supplies them with their
manifolds.  I would go to a good hardware store, they should have them in
the plumbing section.  Seal the threads with teflon tape.

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 17:04:44 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Speaking of 4-speeds

I would like a 4-speed in my '81 Delta with a 455.  So, I should be looking
at a m-20 or m-21.  How much do they cost rebuilt generally and what would
it take to get the thing stuffed into a '81 Delta with currently a TH400.  I
know about the pedals and stuff but I am just curious about flywheel,
clutch, etc.  What about drive shaft.  I think that a 4-speed '80s Delta
with a 455 would be as original as one can get and should be quick as well.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 19:19:57 -0500
From: Mritunjay Singh <ms76@cornell.edu>
Subject: UPDATE: How do I isolate bad cylinder/bearing?

Well, for those who followed this thread, here's an update:

I opened up the oil pan and guess what there was a pile of broken metal in it!

Two piston rods have broken near the bearings. one of the rods was jamming the
crankshaft.

The two affected cylinders are on directly opposite sides of the V engine
(cylinders 1&2).
The journal has some small grooves in it from the broken rods.

Cylinders 1&2 fire one after the other, so I'm thinking of running it as a V4.
This will shake but probably not as much as if just one cylinder was disabled,
right?

Do you think I can put in new piston rods and bearings and make it run as a V6?
Probably not, huh.....because of the grooves on the journals..

How much do short blocks cost? I just need a ball-park figure. It's a 1986 olds
V6 3.8L engine.
How much do engines from junk yards cost?

Thanks
- -Mritunjay

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 19:31:35 -0500
From: "Bill Reilly" <wjreilly@erols.com>
Subject: Re: temp guage selection

Thanks Greg,  I'll check into that if it comes down to it.

Bill
- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, January 03, 1999 6:59 PM
Subject: Re: temp guage selection


>I can't solve all your problems, but I know there are brass thread reducers
>to put small fittings into large holes.  Edelbrock supplies them with their
>manifolds.  I would go to a good hardware store, they should have them in
>the plumbing section.  Seal the threads with teflon tape.
>
>-greg
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 19:47:10 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Speaking of 4-speeds

Depending on what gear ratio you will be using...if you use 3.55:1 or
numerically lower you should use a M-20 (wide ratio)do to the lower first gear
and smaller difference in1-4th gears. If you are going to use 3.73:1 or
numerically higher use the M-21(close ratio) , Larger difference in gear
ratios between each 1st 2nd 3rd and 4th gears.  

Harry  , NJ.   73 Olds cutlass S 455/4spd. and owned 46 musclecars in the past

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 19:56:00 EST
From: CCRR12@aol.com
Subject: Power Steering Installation

Looking for opinions and experiences with installing power steering ,
replacing the original manual system.

Rebuilding the manual gearbox is on my list of things I would like to do with
the 57. But, I have been thinking of installing a power assist box instead. I
know that this swap requires obtaining a rebuildable steering box and pump,
and new hoses. Anything else?

Could a later model pump be used with the older gear assembly?  Would this
require a different pitman arm? 

TIA,
Randy in Oklahoma
57 88 J2

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 17:59:54 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: temp guage selection

> My 307 had three ports with sensors in the intake manifold.  1 port for EFE
> control, one for temp guage, and one for something else.
> What's that third one for?  Is it important? I can't find reference to it in
> my Service manual.

Bill, that third port is for the coolant temperature sensor, a rather important
part of the CCC system.  You can get an adaptor at like Napa, Autozone, etc. 
Take the Coolant sensor and the 455's sending unit in, and match threads at the
counter.  About all it takes, fairly easy.  Actually, I think my 260 actually
~came~ with an adaptor for it...  Can't remember...

Should be a fairly straightforward swap, though...  If you can get a chip made
for it, you should be in good shape.  Drill a hole and weld in a boss for the 
O2
sensor in the headers, and grab ya'self a high output coil, and good to go... 
:)  

Remember, the computer's coolant temperature sensor, and the guage's 
temperature
sending unit are two different critters, both are necessary.  Some aftermarket
intakes have a port above the #7 waterjacket, that'll take a third plug, if
you'd want to retain that ported vacuum switch up front.  (Yeah right...  ;)

Without a chip, you're advance curve may be limiting performance.  The a/f
ratio, in theory, shouldn't matter, since it's meterred by O2 sensor, but will
still be based on emissions/economy first.  A chip will help that, as well. 
Same goes for cam changes, etc, where vacuum readings will change in the
computer, as well...  

I didn't run a CCC with 455, but ~did~ keep it with my 403, so it's fairly
similar.  Good luck, if you have any other questions, feel free to holler...


Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 20:01:36 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: adds posted to the list

Dave,

I'd say post them on both, some folks aren't on this list and some of us
(including me, unfortunately) don't have enough hours in the day to stop by
Bryce's fantastic site more than once or twice a month.

I don't see a big problem with ads on the list as long as they don't overload
the wonderful discussions and requests for information that keep me plugged in
here.

Just my opinions, and you know what they're (opinions) like................

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 19:10:10 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: temp guage selection

, but they are diferent in size compared to the 307, so I can't swap
>the 307 sending units into the 455.  Will the units from the 455 work with
>and connect up to my electrical system?  That third sensor in my 307
intake,
>is that similar to what would be in the second port of the 455 intake.  If
>it's not,  are there any suggestions on how to adapt a smaller diameter
>sending unit to a larger diameter port.


Check at a plumbing supply house if nowhere else has them but you
can get adapter sleeves to put the smaller sending unit in the larger
hole.  Most gauge sets come with an assortment, and I know I have
a few floating around.  Find out what the threads are (should be NPT
or pipe threads, meaning they taper) and ask around.  As far as the
other stuff, haven't a clue.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 19:25:24 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: UPDATE: How do I isolate bad cylinder/bearing?

Singh, 
Doesn't work that way, you're going to have to pull it apart, or have
someone capable to do it, if you take rod caps off oil will spray from
those holes, NO oil pressure, that the easy part, too many other things
come into play here, could write a book on it, going to have to fix it
correctly here, or buy a long block from Auto Zone or someone. No cheap and
easy fix here, if rod broke, heads are probably damaged. Sorry, no easy way
to repair. Need good reliable mechanic, cheap but good, if cheap, probably
not good, if good, probably not cheap! Good luck. Don't know prices, check
around.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

- ----------
> From: Mritunjay Singh <ms76@cornell.edu>
> To: Oldsmobile Mailing List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> 
> Well, for those who followed this thread, here's an update:
> 
> I opened up the oil pan and guess what there was a pile of broken metal
in it!
> 
> Two piston rods have broken near the bearings. one of the rods was
jamming the
> crankshaft.
> 
> The two affected cylinders are on directly opposite sides of the V engine
> (cylinders 1&2).
> The journal has some small grooves in it from the broken rods.
> 
> Cylinders 1&2 fire one after the other, so I'm thinking of running it as
a V4.
> This will shake but probably not as much as if just one cylinder was
disabled,
> right?
> 
> Do you think I can put in new piston rods and bearings and make it run as
a V6?
> Probably not, huh.....because of the grooves on the journals..
> 
> How much do short blocks cost? I just need a ball-park figure. It's a
1986 olds
> V6 3.8L engine.
> How much do engines from junk yards cost?
> 
> Thanks
> -Mritunjay

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 19:22:02 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: UPDATE: How do I isolate bad cylinder/bearing?

>How much do short blocks cost? I just need a ball-park figure. It's a 1986
olds
>V6 3.8L engine.
>How much do engines from junk yards cost?
>
All depends on where your at and what local availability
is.  Back in VA we'd get junkyard motors for $300 to
$800, supply and demand.  Hard to get a short block
from a junkyard usually, as they like to sell the whole
thing, but sometimes you luck out.  What did you
do to break two rods???

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 19:43:09 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: 72 Windshield Molding

I have a question which may pertain to 70-72 Cutlass/442 cars. In my 72
convertible I had the window removed in the front and then it was resealed.
When I went to put the upper stainless trim molding back on it doesn't sit
flush completely with the window. This may have been the way it was
originally but I don't remember. I don't see how the window would have sat
further up before. It just may be my imagination. Anyone out there care to
check there car and see?

The molding I speak of is the upper trim molding that sits on the outside
of the window on top ot the window and is held in by clips. 


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 21:09:09 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Humor: 23 Basic Rules For Driving In St. Louis

Forwarded from a friend, how many of these apply elsewhere?

Sounds like a lot of these apply to Kansas City and the Grandview Triangle.

23 BASIC RULES FOR DRIVING IN ST LOUIS 
 
  1. A right lane construction closure is just a game to see how many 
  people can cut in line by passing you on the right as you sit in the 
  left lane waiting for the same jerks to squeeze their way back in 
  before hitting the orange construction barrels. 
 
  2. Turn signals are clues as to your next move. A real St. Louis 
  driver never uses them.
 
  3. Under no circumstances should you leave a safe distance between 
  you and the car in front of you or the space will be filled in by 
  somebody else putting you in an even more dangerous situation. 
 
  4. Crossing two or more lanes in a single lane change is considered 
  "going with the flow."
 
  5. The faster you drive through a red light, the smaller the chance 
  you have of getting hit.
 
  6. Never get in the way of an older car that needs extensive 
  bodywork.  Missouri's a no-fault insurance state and the other guy 
  doesn't have anything to lose.
 
  7. Braking is to be done as hard and late as possible to insure that 
  your ABS kicks in giving a nice relaxing foot massage as the brake 
  pedal pulsates.  For those of you without ABS, it's a chance to 
  stretch your legs.
 
  8. Construction signs tell you about road closures immediately after 
  you pass the last exit before the traffic begins to back up. 
 
  9. The new electronic traffic warning system signs are not there to 
  provide useful information.  They are only there to make St. Louis look 
  high-tech and to distract you from seeing the St. Louis County police 
  car parked in the median.
 
  10.  Never pass on the left when you can pass on the right.  It's a 
  good way to scare people entering the highway.
 
  11.  Speed limits are arbitrary figures, given only as suggestions 
  and apparently not enforceable in the metro area during rush hour. 
  
  12.  Just because you're in the left lane and have no room to speed up 
  or move over doesn't mean that a St. Louis driver flashing his high 
  beams behind you doesn't think he can go faster in your spot. 
  
  13. Please remember that there is no such thing as a shortcut during 
   rush-hour traffic in St. Louis
  
  14.  Always slow down and rubberneck when you see an accident or even 
  someone changing a tire.
  
  15.  Throwing litter on the roads adds variety to the landscape, keeps 
  the existing litter from getting lonely and gives Adopt-a-highway 
  crews something to clean up.
  
  16.  Everybody thinks their vehicle is better than yours, (especially 
  pickup truck drivers with stickers of Calvin peeing on a Ford, Dodge 
  or Chevy logo.)
  
  17. Learn to swerve abruptly.  St. Louis is the home of high-speed 
  slalom driving thanks to MDOT (Missouri Dept. of Transportation), 
  which puts potholes in key locations to test drivers' reflexes and 
  keep them on their toes.
  
  18. It is traditional in St. Louis to honk your horn at cars that don't
   move the instant the light changes. 
  
  19. Seeking eye contact with another driver revokes your right of 
  way.
 
  20. Never take a green light at face value.  Always look right and 
  left before proceeding.
 
  21. Heavy snow, ice, fog, and rain are no reasons to change any of the 
  previously listed rules.  These weather conditions are Gods way 
  ensuring a natural selection process for body shops, junkyards, and 
  new vehicle sales.  After all, we do have our priorities.
  
  22.  Remember that the goal of every St. Louis driver is to get there 
  first, by whatever means necessary.
 
  23.  Real St. Louis women drivers can put on pantyhose and apply eye 
  makeup at seventy-five miles per hour in bumper-to-bumper traffic. 
  Real St. Louis men drivers can remove pantyhose and a bra at 
  seventy-five miles per hour in bumper-to-bumper traffic.

Smile, and Take Care!
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 21:57:26 -0500
From: "John H. Edmonds III" <edmonds@UU.NET>
Subject: Re:Humor: 23 Basic Rules For Driving In St. Louis

- --------------3CDB90E378FAECA1F578F74A
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

23 BASIC RULES FOR DRIVING IN ST LOUIS  sounds like the conditions here
around Washington DC!

- --
============================================================================
John H. Edmonds III
Network Operations Engineer
UUNET WorldCom
(703) 206-5485

Guinness is for strength!
============================================================================



- --------------3CDB90E378FAECA1F578F74A
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML>
23 BASIC RULES FOR DRIVING IN ST LOUIS&nbsp; sounds like the conditions
here around Washington DC!
<PRE>--&nbsp;
============================================================================
John H. Edmonds III
Network Operations Engineer
UUNET WorldCom
(703) 206-5485


Guinness is for strength!
============================================================================</P
RE>
&nbsp;</HTML>

- --------------3CDB90E378FAECA1F578F74A--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 22:13:57 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: Who is in  St. Louis, by the way?  Or Missour?

anyone?
Why is it that there is always a traffic back up in St. Louis on I-70 and
~everyone~ has vanity plates?

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 22:15:26 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Who is in  St. Louis, by the way?  Or Missour?

  Er, ah, could it be a concentration of vanity ?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Master Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, January 03, 1999 10:15 PM
Subject: Who is in St. Louis, by the way? Or Missour?


>anyone?
>Why is it that there is always a traffic back up in St. Louis on I-70 and
>~everyone~ has vanity plates?
>
>Ray Costanzo
>87 409 Cutlass
>costanzo@netcarrier.com
>http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 21:21:45 -0600 (CST)
From: Bryceman <bryceman@442.com>
Subject: Oldsmobile slot car racing!

FYI a company called Model Motoring told me they are going to release 2 new
HO scale slot cars this summer... '70 442 and "Hurst Olds". He didnt
specify which year Hurst/Olds. Their cars have real nice detail reminiscent
of the old (Aurora Company) Thunderjet HO scale cars. They already have a
couple non-Olds musclecars on the market. If you want to check them out,
their site is... http://www.modelmho.com/


Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Oldsmobiles!
J. Bryce Smith
Email: bryceman@442.com
Web: http://442.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 22:23:34 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Who is in  St. Louis, by the way?  Or Missour?

Ray,

Don't know about that, I'm across from the other side of Missouri but we get
our share of traffic jams here, too.  Sometimes for no reason at
all...................

Take Care
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 21:29:07 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: ID-ing a 442

About a mile from me there's a house with 2 Oldsmobiles rotting in the
driveway, half covered with weeds and overgrowth. One looks to be a 70's
vintage 442....perhaps I'll inquire if it's for sale. But first I'd like to
ask the list to assist in identifying it.

I can only see the grille and drivers side from a drive-by. Appears to be a
442 emblem on the front fender. Chrome Oldsmobile lettering in the drivers
side of grille. Cant see any Rockets.

Four round headlights, each pair surrounded by a rectangular box of chrome
trim. There's a rectangular driving light (parking light?) in between each
pair of headlights.

I checked a whole bunch of pics on Bryce's pages and couldn't find a match
with the parking light between the headlights.

Convert top, ripped, covered in plastic. (yuck).

Any guesses?

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 21:33:53 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Who is in  St. Louis, by the way?  Or Missour?

Master,
carefully planned, lot of vanity here, cant get Master plates, already
taken!!
Lou

- ----------
> From: Master Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Who is in  St. Louis, by the way?  Or Missour?
> Date: Sunday, January 03, 1999 9:13 PM
> 
> anyone?
> Why is it that there is always a traffic back up in St. Louis on I-70 and
> ~everyone~ has vanity plates?
> 
> Ray Costanzo
> 87 409 Cutlass
> costanzo@netcarrier.com
> http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 20:34:54 -0600
From: <barbw@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Humor: 23 Basic Rules For Driving In St. Louis

- --------------42612A20BB549CFE783E6284
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Phoenix drivers apparently follow those rules also - along with one
other:

    24.    If you have two or more occupants in your vehicle, dont
bother to use the car pool lane during rush hour or at any other time;
there's no need to hurry to get anywhere so just lollygag in the left
lane as though you were the only one on the road.


Barb
barbw@uswest.net


John H. Edmonds III wrote:

>  23 BASIC RULES FOR DRIVING IN ST LOUIS  sounds like the conditions
> here around Washington DC!
>
> --
> ============================================================================
> John H. Edmonds III
> Network Operations Engineer
> UUNET WorldCom
> (703) 206-5485
>
>
> Guinness is for strength!
> ============================================================================
>
>



- --------------42612A20BB549CFE783E6284
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML>
Phoenix drivers apparently follow those rules also - along with one other:

<P>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 24.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; If you have two or more occupants
in your vehicle, dont bother to use the car pool lane during rush hour
or at any other time; there's no need to hurry to get anywhere so just
lollygag in the left lane as though you were the only one on the road.
<BR>&nbsp;

<P>Barb
<BR>barbw@uswest.net
<BR>&nbsp;

<P>John H. Edmonds III wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>&nbsp;23 BASIC RULES FOR DRIVING IN ST LOUIS&nbsp;
sounds like the conditions here around Washington DC!
<PRE>--&nbsp;
============================================================================
John H. Edmonds III
Network Operations Engineer
UUNET WorldCom
(703) 206-5485


Guinness is for strength!
============================================================================</P
RE>
&nbsp;</BLOCKQUOTE>
&nbsp;</HTML>

- --------------42612A20BB549CFE783E6284--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 22:33:41 EST
From: CUTLASS442@aol.com
Subject: Re: ID-ing a 442

In a message dated 1/3/99 7:29:28 PM Pacific Standard Time,
david.cullen@snet.net writes:

<< 
 Four round headlights, each pair surrounded by a rectangular box of chrome
 trim. There's a rectangular driving light (parking light?) in between each
 pair of headlights. >>


67-71???

richard
cutlass442@aol.com
1967 "Oldsmobuick" Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 22:34:32 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Non-Olds:  New Superspeedway

Listmembers,

I thought I'd proudly proclaim that tomorrow Kansas City, Kansas will take the
next step in the construction of a superspeedway on the western edge of town
with the closing of State Avenue from I-435 to 118th Street, as well as other
roads in the area.  We were told the roads are expected to be closed for about
18 months, and State will be relocated to go around the 1.5-mile
superspeedway.

International Speedway Corporation, owners of Daytona, Talladega, Watkins Glen
and Darlington among others will be the owners of the track, tentatively
called Kansas International Speedway.

Olds Content:  I know from drawings I've seen that the track will include
several infield road courses as well as areas for autocrossing, so our SCCA
Solo I/II and Club (Road) Racing cars will get the chance to compete there
when the track (and the cars) are completed.  Plus, in the future, the track
would be an ideal place to hold an OCA National meet.................

After all the bad rap and ignoring that KCK gets, I just had to brag a little.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
KANSAS CITY, KANSAS!!!!!!!!!!
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 22:34:58 EST
From: Cutw29@aol.com
Subject: Re: ID-ing a 442

Sounds like it could be a '68.

Steve 
CutW29@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 21:41:04 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Humor: 23 Basic Rules For Driving In St. Louis

Ken, 
#16 fits real good, I70 at the bridge approach to KC,Kansas is a real trip
also, from Mo to KS. Fun area.
Lou

- ----------
> From: KS7RACING@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca; KS7RACING@aol.com
> Subject: Humor: 23 Basic Rules For Driving In St. Louis

>   16.  Everybody thinks their vehicle is better than yours, (especially 
>   pickup truck drivers with stickers of Calvin peeing on a Ford, Dodge 
>   or Chevy logo.)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 22:47:40 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Re: temp guage selection

> Bill, that third port is for the coolant temperature sensor, a rather 
important
> part of the CCC system.  You can get an adaptor at like Napa, Autozone, etc. 

Also, any hardware supply store (like Home Depot) will have these.  As I
recall, the large ports are 1/2" NPT.  For example, a 307 coolant
temperature switch is 3/8" NPT; I had to use a brass 1/2"-3/8" reducer.
Then, I purchased a cyberdyne water temp gauge which uses a 1/8" NPT
sending unit.  BTW, I've had trouble with two of these sending units (one
from Cyberdyne, the other from Summit)  Above 200 F, they seem to self
destruct.   It appears the epoxy (?) had an air pocket and at this
temperature, it pops upwards, tearing apart the miniature circuit board!
Has this happened to anyone else?  Currently, my gauge reads 000 :(.

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 21:45:00 -0600 (CST)
From: blue442@webtv.net
Subject: Re: ID-ing a 442

Sorry, 68's have no script on the grill other than a centered 442
emblem.  Maybe a later model?

Jeff Carter
blue442@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 03:43:09 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: My New Carb

>Ok guys and gals, here's the first installment of my latest saga:
>Rebuilding a junkyard carb (Q-jet, of course) to put on my '78 Cutlass
>Supreme (350cid, TH-350, 3:42 limited-slip).
>I pulled it off of some old Firebird, maybe a 1976?  The number on the
>carburetor itself is 17056264.  I can't find it in any of my books.
>Anyhow, I was wondering: 1)Is this a 1976 Pontiac carb?  Any info is
>appreciated.  

That is a 1976 Pontiac 49-state 350 Carb, for just about all models but the
Firebird (which had a 17056274 carb). Here are the part #'s for the vital 
specs:

Primary Jet- 7031972    "72"
Primary Rod- 17051346   "46K"
Secondary Rod- 7047806  "DB"

>2)What does DB mean, when it is on the metering rods?  

That was Rochester's way of designating secondary rods; there seems to be no
rhyme or reason to the letter codes, though the lower the first letter, the
earlier the rod, usually.

You can compare that rod to other rods in the chart on pp. 152-153 of Doug
Roe's Rochester book.

>3)How
>do you tell what kind of jets you have if there's no number on them?  

If the jets are stock, they should be #72's. Yours don't have any number on
them? Sometimes they are faintly stamped.

>4)If
>the carb is designed to have an "idle compensator assembly", and it is
>missing, will it still work?

Do you mean the idle dashpot, or the hot idle compensator on the back of the
carb? 

The function of the first is to keep the idle normal when the ignition is
on, and then drop the throttle completely closed when the ignition is turned
off to prevent dieseling, or to bump the idle up to compensate for the load
of the A/C compressor. You can delete this if your engine idles fine and
shuts-off fine without it (my 403 does fine with it disconnected).

The second leaks extra air to compensate for the fuel vapor from the float
bowl being drawn into the engine, making the mixture too rich. Later carbs
with the canister purge hookup didn't use them, though the float-bowl
castings retained the vestiges of that compensator for many years after they
stopped using them (about 1970).

>P.S. - I've still got those SSIII's (14x6) free to a good home!

Where are they located?

Bob Barry
rbarry@providence.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 22:49:18 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: ID-ing a 442

Dave

        It sounds like a 67 442 if there is chrome around the headlights. The
68's had the turn signal in between the headlights but had a plastic surround.

Jim Chermack


At 09:29 PM 1/3/99 , you wrote:
>About a mile from me there's a house with 2 Oldsmobiles rotting in the
>driveway, half covered with weeds and overgrowth. One looks to be a 70's
>vintage 442....perhaps I'll inquire if it's for sale. But first I'd like to
>ask the list to assist in identifying it.
>
>I can only see the grille and drivers side from a drive-by. Appears to be a
>442 emblem on the front fender. Chrome Oldsmobile lettering in the drivers
>side of grille. Cant see any Rockets.
>
>Four round headlights, each pair surrounded by a rectangular box of chrome
>trim. There's a rectangular driving light (parking light?) in between each
>pair of headlights.
>
>I checked a whole bunch of pics on Bryce's pages and couldn't find a match
>with the parking light between the headlights.
>
>Convert top, ripped, covered in plastic. (yuck).
>
>Any guesses?
>
>drc
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 03:43:31 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Countdown to ADMIN: Re: RE weather

>One morning the driver's door did not wanna open (prolly was frozen), so I
>pulled harder. Open says-me! Aren't these cars great?

Rube the seals with silicone lubricant to minimize the chances of the doors
freezing shut.

Bob Barry

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 22:52:57 EST
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: page

In a message dated 1/3/99 5:33:29 AM Eastern Standard Time, GraphixRUs@aol.com
writes:

<< 
 Paging  Karl Sarpolis,
 I have a couple of  questions.
 Thanks 
 Rooger Utter
 
  >>
   Almost positive Karl is not on the list, you will have to call him at home
in Illinois 1-708-614-4906

Everett     OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 23:02:18 EST
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Electric Trouble Shooting Manuals For Sale

  I have t he following Oldsmobile Electrical Trouble Shooting manuals for
sale
 $35.00 each plus $5.00 Shipping & Handling.
 
    1981, 1982, 1983, 1984 and  1985.
 
 Everett   ANTIQOLDS@AOL.COM
 
 E & G Automotive
 1-401-435-7139

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 23:03:13 EST
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fisher Body Manuals For Sale

 I have the following Fisher Body Service Manuals for Sale  All Manuals are
 $25.00 each plus $5.00 Shipping & Handling
 
 1967, 1968, 1970, 1971, 1972, 1973, 1974, 1975, 1976, 1977,1979,1980
 1981, 1982, 1983, 1984, 1985, 1986, 1987, 1988
 
 there are some duplicates but, not many so don't delay if you desire one.
 
 Everett  ANTIQOLDS@AOL.COM
 
 E & G Automotive
 1-401-435-7139 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 23:03:57 EST
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Diesel Service Manuals

    I have the following Diesel books for sale $20.00 each plus $5.00 shipping
 & handling
 
 Service manual  for the 350N engine printed 1977
 Product Service Training  printed 1983.
 
 Everett   ANTIQOLDS@AOL.COM
 
 E & G Automotive
 1-401-435-7139
 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 23:05:06 EST
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Service Manuals For Sale

    I have the following Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manuals for sale, please
 note various prices, add $5.00  S&H  to each book. 
 
 1959 $25.00, 1968 $35.00, 1974 $35.00, 1975 $35.00, 1976 $35.00, 1977 $35.00,
 1979 $35.00, 1980 $35.00, 1980 Omega $25.00, 1981 $35.00, 1982 Cutlass 88 98
 Toro $35.00, 1982 Firenza $25.00, 1983 Cutlass 88 98 Toro $35.00, 1983,
 Firenza Omega Ciera $25.00, 1984 Cutlass Delta 88  98  Custom Cruiser  Toro
 $35.00, 1984 Firenza Omega Ciera $25.00, 1985 Cutlass Supreme Cust/Cruis  88
 98  Toro  $35.00, 1985 (2 volumn) Firenza Calais Ciera  $40.00, 1986 Cutlass
 Supreme Cutlass Salon Custom Cruiser  $35.00, 1987 Cutlass Supreme  Cutlass
 Salon   Custom Cruiser  $35.00, 1987 Firenza Calais Ciera  88  98  $35.00,
 1988 Calais $30.00, 1988  88-98 $35.00, 1989 Calais $30.00, 1989 Ciera
$30.00,
 1989  Toro $35.00, 1989 88-98  $35.00, 1990 Cutlass Supreme $35.00, 1990
 Calais  $30.00, 1990 Custom Cruiser  $25.00, 1990 Toro/Trofeo $35.00, 1991
 Cutlass Supreme $35.00, 1991 Toro  $35.00, 1992 Custum Cruiser $30.00, 1992
 88  $35.00, 1992  98 $35.00, 1992 Achieva $35.00, 1992 Ciera $35.00, 1992
 Cutlass Supreme $35.00.
 
 Everett   ANTIQOLDS@AOL.COM
 
 E & G Automotive    401-435-7139

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 21:15:32 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Re:adds on the list

I like the adds.  I have bought from them.  I know where the delete key is.

Larry Pegg
- -----Original Message-----
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, January 02, 1999 7:40 AM
Subject: Re:adds on the list


>Hello,
> I think at least the multiple item, commercial type adds should be kept
off of this
>list. Anyone looking for part will know to look at the classifieds. I wish
the list
>boss would stop these posts.
>Dave Brode
>64 Cutlass
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 23:22:33 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Countdown to ADMIN: Re: RE weather

Robert Barry wrote:
> 
> >One morning the driver's door did not wanna open (prolly was frozen), so I
> >pulled harder. Open says-me! Aren't these cars great?
> 
> Rube the seals with silicone lubricant to minimize the chances of the doors
> freezing shut.

What would the world be like without silicone lubricant, WD-40 and
breaker bars?  At least 1/3 of the cars on the road wouldn't probably be
there today.  (Reply sent with a small smile on the face, but no double
meaning intended.  One of my new year's resolutions was to be a nicer
and kinder person this year.)  And they HAD to put the 60s Chevs on My
Classic Car today and tell me how wonderful they are after spending a
minute or so on the Olds 100th anniversary party.  I'm sure the 60s
Chevs were more important than a 100 years of Oldsmobile.  Sometimes
it's difficult to own the "other" make(s).  If I wanted to be in the
masses I'd get a couple tattoos and a piercing or two with a mohawk
haircut.  Sure my tax clientele would be impressed with that and a pin
stripe suit.  Actually the probability of either is rather low.  I HATE
suits, but for enough money I could force myself into one I guess.  That
might be an option here shortly.  Hope they have a LOT of money.  :)

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, KY (the big weather mess missed us but it's rather
chilly, 10-15 degrees at the moment)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 21:19:16 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: parts for sale

Are these sb Chevy or sb olds or sb ?  I need some of this stuff
- -----Original Message-----
From: Edward Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
To: Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, January 02, 1999 2:23 PM
Subject: parts for sale


>Lunati cam and lifters - Bracketmaster II, .496/.520 lift, 224/234 duration
>@.050 lift: $60, only break-in time on this cam.
>Holley carbs - #3310 (750 vac. sec):$120 and #4780 (800 dp):$150 both
>rebuilt and in excellent condition, never had gasoline in them since
>rebuild.
>Early 80's 442 leather-wrapped steering wheel with center cap, excellent
>condition: $45.
>Holley street dominator intake for small block, excellent condition: $125.
>Edelbrock Performer for small block, excellent condition: $125.
>Hurst AutoStick 3 shifter, new in box $100.
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 3 Jan 1999 21:28:01 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Need help with piston rings

Rings are cheap, I'd replace them and lightly crosshatch the cylinders.   It
is way easier than a second tear down or poor performance.

Larry Pegg


- -----Original Message-----
From: Shang <shang@connect.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, January 03, 1999 3:58 AM
Subject: Need help with piston rings


>Hey everyone,
>
> I am going to see about salvaging my 350 in a few weeks and I need some
>opinions about the pistons rings. My engine had less than 500 miles
>runtime on it when I got some trash in the #1&2 rod bearings and trashed
>the crank. I need to pull the pistons out so I can have the assembly
>re-balanced when I get a new crank.
>
> My question is this: since the motor has so little runtime on it, can I
>re-use the piston rings? I am not trying to be cheap, I am just trying
>to keep from spending money that I don't need to. I have been told that
>I must have the cylinder's re-honed and re-ring the pistons, or the
>rings will not seal. I am wondering if I keep them all in order and
>don't touch the cylinder's, will they seat ok again? I have looked at
>the cylinder's and the cross-hatch looks exactly the same now as it did
>when I put the motor together. This is the original '70 350 and it is an
>F2 block, so I know it's pretty hard and doesn't wear that fast. Is a
>re-hone and re-ring and absolute necessity or is it just a "to make
>sure" kinda deal?
>
>Thanks for the help.
>
>Stephen Hoover
>Dallas, Texas
>'70 Supreme
>

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1698
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