Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1649


oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, December 8 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1649



Re: Looking for 68 steering wheel!
Re: 68 Supreme  (was: Engine Block Bolts)
Re: classic auto storage
Re: classic auto storage
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1647
Re: 68 Supreme  (was: Engine Block Bolts)
Re: 68 Supreme  (was: Engine Block Bolts)
Re: Web page update
Re: Bumpers {Marking for ID}
Re: Wondering if i got a good price
column needed
Re: 68 Supreme  (was: Engine Block Bolts)
Re: 68 Supreme  (was: Engine Block Bolts)
Re: Timing Chain
1968 Cutlass Supreme engine
NOS???
compression test
RE: NOS???
Re: NOS???
Re: NOS???
Re: NOS???
Re: NOS???
Re: compression test
Re: compression test
Head bolt torque specs/blown gasket/best heads
Re: compression test
Re: Bumper Boyz
Re: 68 Supreme  (was: Engine Block Bolts)
Re: 1968 Cutlass Supreme engine
Re: 68 Supreme  (was: Engine Block Bolts)
Re: NOS???
Re: 68 Supreme  (was: Engine Block Bolts)
Re: 68 Supreme  (was: Engine Block Bolts)
RE: compression test
Re: NOS???
Re: Head bolt torque specs/blown gasket/best heads
Re: Lic Plate Resto help
Re: 67 w30
Re: Head bolt torque specs/blown gasket/best heads
Re: Webpage
Re: Head bolt torque specs/blown gasket/best heads
Re: Head bolt torque specs/blown gasket/best heads
Re: Head bolt torque specs/blown gasket/best heads
RE: compression test
Used Cam Question
Re: compression test
RE: Used Cam Question
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1648
RE: compression test
Re: Used Cam Question
Re: Head bolt torque specs/blown gasket/best heads
Re: compression test
Re: Eastwood Vinyl Paint
Re: NOS???
Re: compression test
Re: Used Cam Question
Re: Great movies
Re: Head bolt torque specs/blown gasket/best heads
Re: Used Cam Question
G Body Steering wheel column swap
Parting '66 Delta,
Re: 68 Supreme  (was: Engine Block Bolts)
Re: Lic Plate Resto help
Re: 307 Timing Chain
Re: Olds engines and GN turbo systems
Re: classic auto storage
Re: Great movies
'66 Delta 2 and 4 door interchangeability

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 21:09:44 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: Looking for 68 steering wheel!

My dad has 3 of the 68 Woodgrain wheels, not for sale though. The Corvette one
is EXACTILY the same, so you might beable to pick one of thoes up for cheaper.
Kelly
1966 Cutlass
www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 20:23:48 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 68 Supreme  (was: Engine Block Bolts)

First 7 digits of the vin are 342878M which equates to a 68 Cutlass
Supreme V8 2 dr Holiday Coupe built in Lansing.  On the cowl tag
it list the 970 interior code for black Supreme buckets.  Doesn't have
the S hood.  Has a Jetaway, floor shift, console, p/s, p/b, front drums,
no A/C, single exhaust, and correct code block.  Previous owner installed
3a heads (engine/intake gold, heads/valve covers blue) when he bent the
valves due to broken timing chain.  Car is completely original including
most of the paint (and worn out parts) and correct 68 2v air cleaner and
pie pan.  Don't know how to decode the carb numbers to know if it's the
correct one or not but due to the single exhaust and air cleaner it fits.
Been looking for the build sheet but haven't found it yet.  Been meaning
to pull up the carpet for a while now.  Any info you have would be
helpful especially if you know how to decode the numbers on the oil fill
tube or the side pad under the head on the block.  The other thing I'm
wondering about is the date code on the body tag is 08E which means
5th week of August.  Have heard that the date coded items could be
2 to 8 weeks before actual assembly so would it be an early 68 (built in
67) or a late 68?

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme



>You have a 1968 Cutlass Supreme with a 2 barrel? The Cutlass Supreme came
with
>a 4barrel, the S came wtih a 2barrel, what one do you have?
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 21:27:31 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: classic auto storage

Bob Dale wrote:

> Greetings fellow listers,
>   Considering turning part of a local building into an auto/motorhome
> storage facility. Does anyone know what a fair going monthly rate would
> be for heated storage with onsite security? No admission without being
> accompanied by storage representative.Thanks. B.D.

BD,

Kinda depends on your geographical location.
Heating cost in Minnesota vs. Alabama.
Major metro area or out in the boonies.
Of course Oldsmobiles would command a premium rate.

From: Mark Hahn [mailto:mahahn@fuse.net]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 21:24:40 EST
From: OLDS44272@aol.com
Subject: Re: classic auto storage

  <<<  Greetings fellow listers,
  Considering turning part of a local building into an auto/motorhome
storage facility. Does anyone know what a fair going monthly rate would
be for heated storage with onsite security? No admission without being
accompanied by storage representative.Thanks. B.D.>>>
            
              I am renting a small 20 X 20 garage around the corner from my
house. It is not heated but well secured ( no windows, the garage doesn't face
the street). I am paying $20 a month. Not much room to work on stuff, but 2
cars and my motorcyle fit in there. Plus i have a friend who has his 96
Rustang convertable in there. He is paying me $20 to use the storage
space.............you gotta love America......SCOTT

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 21:28:44 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1647

> Hello all,

 I've noticed alot of talk about the lack of a performer RPM for the big 
olds'. I've always
wondered if the O4B was discontinued due to the fact that it won't fit with an 
HEI. I wonder
if this is why Edelbrock has never come out with a BB performer RPM?  I don't 
think there's
enough space to allow the manufacture of a large ported dual plane that will 
work with the
H.E.I.
 I like the old O4B, while i don't think much of the performer. The ports look 
way to small
to me.
 Thoughts?
Dave Brode
64 Cutlass ran 12.5 years ago w/ stock 68 toro motor, with Dave Smith cam / 
O4B / Q-jet
[13mpg]

> ------------------------------
> be nice to have a Performer RPM for the big guys though.
>
> Mike Rothe
> homas Martin
> 80 Turbo Trans AM
> 85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
> 91 Bonneville LE 3800
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 21:28:48 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: 68 Supreme  (was: Engine Block Bolts)

EIther that or they swapped the 2bbl in

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 21:28:36 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: 68 Supreme  (was: Engine Block Bolts)

It's still not a Cutlass Supreme. They came with a 4barrel, you can't argue
that.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 21:33:20 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Web page update

Lou Biggs wrote:

> Mark,
> Not to worry, didn't take too seriously, have some better pix then the ones
> showed, will put them together one of days, also of the 67, 442. What did
> you think of the car, really, tried real hard to make it right, I still
> have the factory tires and ss wheels in storage, want to get them blasted
> and repainted, might show it with them. I just like the TA's and mags
> personally.
> Lou
>

Its as fine a specimen as any Olds I've seen.

 From: Mark Hahn [mailto:mahahn@fuse.net]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 09:38:40 -0500
From: "person" <vbdeveloper@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Bumpers {Marking for ID}

Eric,
    Where is this reputable place? I need my bumper fixed also.. While we
are on the subject, any other places in the Eastern part of the country? I
live in Florida and shipping round-trip to Arizona does not sound too
cheap.....
                Allan
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+
+
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
VBDeveloper@worldnet.att.net

                                       =
                                           =
                                                =
==================================
'69 Olds Ninety-Eight Topless Bubba=====
====666=================999============
         666                                        999
- -----Original Message-----
From: Eric Aksomitis <big_olds@hotmail.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, December 07, 1998 2:00 PM
Subject: Re: Bumpers {Marking for ID}


>With all this to-do about bumpers, when I get mine sent in In January
>(If it KILLS ME), what's the best way to mark it for easy ID after it's
>been replated.  I Thought of mig-welding in My car's name + 3 points for
>a triangle in the back of the bumper.  By frying them in real hot, even
>after getting acid stripped and re-chromed, the bumper could, should the
>need arise, be x-rayed for ID.  Hardly likely to happen, I know of a
>reputable shop.
>BUT, it ain't easy to replace a good core for 25+ year old cars if you
>do get screwed, and both cars of mine that need replating are solid,
>straight bumpers that don't appear to have ever been bent.
>
>Any ideas on easy ways to put a good non-reversable mark in a bumper?
>
>Eric
>http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/biggreen.shtml <-- WILL get a shiny bumper,
>if it kills me
>
>>To all,
>>Some confusion over the bumpers Peter and I were talking about, DESERT
>DOG,
>>DID NOT DO THE BUMPERS IN QUESTION, DON'T WANT TO SEE HIM GET A BAD
>RAP,
>>bumpers were done by a guy in St. Lou, it's him we're going to kill,
>AND
>>after the trial I am going to send my bumper to Desert Dog, heard good
>>things about him. Sorry for the mix-up.
>>Lou Biggs
>>lbiggs@intertek.net
>
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 21:36:46 EST
From: CMans285@aol.com
Subject: Re: Wondering if i got a good price

get grandma to help push

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 21:54:23 -0500
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: column needed

I just read my post.....

I need a tilt column - not a console....


The General

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 21:02:15 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 68 Supreme  (was: Engine Block Bolts)

Yes I can and will.  It does have the Supreme in the VIN right?  Where is
it written in stone that no Supreme's could come with a 2v.  If somene
swapped in a 2v for arguements sake how many 68 4v cars came with
single exhaust.  Not only does it have the "42" in the VIN but it has the
interior code for Supreme buckets which supposedly were only available
in Supreme's and it has all the correct "Supreme" scripts (including the
interior)  over the original paint.  It has the Supreme side body mouldings
et all.  It is definately a Supreme.  What is your source for the info that
it
HAS to be a 4v?

MikeB

>It's still not a Cutlass Supreme. They came with a 4barrel, you can't argue
>that.
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 22:20:57 -0500
From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com>
Subject: Re: 68 Supreme  (was: Engine Block Bolts)

My '71 Supreme is a factory original 2 barrel.  And a sweet running one at
that- 213K miles and still cruising.
- -----Original Message-----
From: mbloomer <mbloomer@gateway.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, December 07, 1998 10:01 PM
Subject: Re: 68 Supreme (was: Engine Block Bolts)


>Yes I can and will.  It does have the Supreme in the VIN right?  Where is
>it written in stone that no Supreme's could come with a 2v.  If somene
>swapped in a 2v for arguements sake how many 68 4v cars came with
>single exhaust.  Not only does it have the "42" in the VIN but it has the
>interior code for Supreme buckets which supposedly were only available
>in Supreme's and it has all the correct "Supreme" scripts (including the
>interior)  over the original paint.  It has the Supreme side body mouldings
>et all.  It is definately a Supreme.  What is your source for the info that
>it
>HAS to be a 4v?
>
>MikeB
>
>>It's still not a Cutlass Supreme. They came with a 4barrel, you can't
argue
>>that.
>>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 22:19:52 EST
From: DrkSole96@aol.com
Subject: Re: Timing Chain

In a message dated 98-12-07 19:12:51 EST, you write:

<< 
    I think that gear-drives are actually supposed to last a considerable
 amount longer than standard chains, or even double-rollers for that matter.
 The only drawback is the noise associated with gear-driven timing components.
 You definately loose that stealthy sound. 
Sounds like a 8-71 supercharger!>>
Well, that wouldn't be all bad, >:-)


DrkSole
73 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 19:20:26 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: 1968 Cutlass Supreme engine

DonziKel@aol.com wrote:
> 
> You have a 1968 Cutlass Supreme with a 2 barrel? The Cutlass Supreme came 
with
> a 4barrel, the S came wtih a 2barrel, what one do you have?




In 1968, the standard engine in a Cutlass Supreme was the
L74
350 4bbl.  The L65 350 2 bbl. WAS a factory option.  

The Cutlass and Cutlass S came standard with the L65
350 2 bbl.  And the L74 350 4 bbl. was a factory option. 

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249

Web site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 22:34:29 -0500
From: "Kevin Grover" <Atvman@rochester.rr.com>
Subject: NOS???

What does NOS stand for when referring to parts,  I know that it is the name
of a company that makes nitrous products.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 22:35:43 -0500
From: "Kevin Grover" <Atvman@rochester.rr.com>
Subject: compression test

If I put a pressure gauge in one of my plug holes and cranked the engine,
and got a reading of 135 psi, what does that mean???

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 22:39:27 -0500
From: drolds@net1plus.com
Subject: RE: NOS???

>What does NOS stand for when referring to parts,  I know 
that it is the name
>of a company that makes nitrous products.
>
>




- ------------------------
Sent by NET1Plus WebMail

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 22:50:37 -0500
From: "jackkopf" <jackkopf@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: NOS???

N = new
O = old
S = stock

  Basically unused old parts.

jack
- -----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Grover <Atvman@rochester.rr.com>
To: Oldsmobile mailing list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: December 7, 1998 10:36 PM
Subject: NOS???


>What does NOS stand for when referring to parts,  I know that it is the
name
>of a company that makes nitrous products.
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 21:44:40 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: NOS???

When referring to restoration parts it means New Old Stock.  Basically
parts that have been sitting around collecting dust somewhere still in the
boxes.  OEM parts that are somtimes as old as the car their for that have
never been used.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>What does NOS stand for when referring to parts,  I know that it is the
name
>of a company that makes nitrous products.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 19:32:32 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: NOS???

Kevin Grover wrote:
> 
> What does NOS stand for when referring to parts,  I know that it is the name
> of a company that makes nitrous products.



Kevin,
NOS in classic car parts terms stands for
New Old Stock.  Meaning unused parts
from the OEM (Original Equipment Mfg.)
In our case this would be Delco or GM.

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249

Web site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 22:55:52 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: NOS???

Kevin Grover wrote:
> 
> What does NOS stand for when referring to parts,  I know that it is the name
> of a company that makes nitrous products.

It stands for New-Old Stock. It means it's an original part that was
never used.

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***************************
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 V-8 4 bbl)
1975 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (250 I-6 1 bbl)
1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (350 V-8 2 bbl)
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4 bbl)
*******************************************
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 21:53:23 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: compression test

It means that cyl is building that amount of cyl pressure.  This 
is used to make sure each cyl is building the proper amount of
compression and that all the cyl's are pretty much even.  A more
accurate test to determine engine health is to use a leak-down
tester.  It pressurizes the cyl with compressed air and measures 
what percentage leaks out.  The nice thing is that you can determine
where the leak is going by listening for the escaping air.  Tailpipe-
exhaust valve, carb-intake valve, crankcase-rings, and bubbles in
the radiator-coolant passages.  Much better system since it tells you
a percentage of leak instead of measuring the output of sealing 
that you must compare to what you expect the engine should have.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>If I put a pressure gauge in one of my plug holes and cranked the engine,
>and got a reading of 135 psi, what does that mean???
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 23:00:59 -0500
From: "jackkopf" <jackkopf@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: compression test

   The test of a single cylinder doesn't mean much. To check the motor you
need to test all cylinders. All should read within 10% of each other. A
reading of
135psi sounds a little low. But you have to consult the manual for the
engine
in question. The compression values as measured in PSI are determined by
compression ratio,cam,cam timing,ring wear and if very low even valve
condition.

jk

- -----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Grover <Atvman@rochester.rr.com>
To: Oldsmobile mailing list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: December 7, 1998 10:38 PM
Subject: compression test


>If I put a pressure gauge in one of my plug holes and cranked the engine,
>and got a reading of 135 psi, what does that mean???
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 23:03:23 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: Head bolt torque specs/blown gasket/best heads

Well, I think I cracked a head or head gasket or one or two of each.  Not, a
severe crack if so, but here's what I'm wondering:

I have a 1979 Olds 403 with 1972 350 heads (7a).  The torque specs for a 403
are 85 ft-lbs.  The specs for a 72 350 are 120.  I may have these backwards,
but I don't think so.  When we put the engine together, we pondered this for
a while and then torqued them to 105.  Was this a safe torquing?  What would
y'all recommend I torque them to when I bolt them back on?

If it turns out that I cracked a head (I have over heated the motor), then I
wouldn't hesitate to hunt down a new set over the winter.  Is there a
particular set that would be better than the 7a's; for my application, other
than Al Edelbrocks!  Here's my engine info:
79 403+.030
stock 403 crank (.010 under)
stock rods
forged aluminum pistons (brand unknown!)
   10.5:1 compression
Crane "Commander" hydraulic cam (804552)
   intake:  .480"/222
   exhaust: .496"/230
Crane lifters and springs
1972 350 Heads (7a)
Edelbrock Performer RPM Intake (7111)
Carter AFB 750 CFM
Mallory Unilite/GM HEI

Thanks everyone for any input.  I've got a winter to deal with this, but I
will still accept pity!

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 22:52:34 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: compression test

>If I put a pressure gauge in one of my plug holes and cranked the >engine,
and got a reading of 135 psi, what does that mean???


It means your rings and valves are in good shape. Is this your '68 350?

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 20:06:44 -0800 (PST)
From: Jeff & Sherie Stanish <stanishj@svpal.org>
Subject: Re: Bumper Boyz

Seems like par for the course in CA I had a friend(thru the body shop) 
send his bumper back
three times to the plater before it was right. So you're not alone. A lot
of folks out for a quick $

On Mon, 7 Dec 1998, Chris Fair wrote:

> Just a quick chime in. I am not satisfied with the products I've seen from
> this company, but I found they did stock my 66 98 rear bumper and they
> turned it around pretty fast when my car was being fixed up. 
> 
> For as much as we all know about them, it's really a pity they don't do
> better work. Imagine how well they could do if this free publicity was
> positive. 
> 
> Or maybe it's just those of us who're dissatisfied are b*tching.  
> 
> cf
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 23:07:16 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: 68 Supreme  (was: Engine Block Bolts)

The owners manual. My dads 1968 Cutlass SUPREME Had single exhaust, trust me
here, they ALL were 4bbls, someone swapped yours durning the fuel shortage in
a weak atempt to save gas.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 23:08:17 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1968 Cutlass Supreme engine

Thank you

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 23:07:50 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: 68 Supreme  (was: Engine Block Bolts)

I'm talking about 1968, they all started to change in the 70's.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 23:09:04 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: NOS???

New Old Stock

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 23:12:01 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: 68 Supreme  (was: Engine Block Bolts)

Sorry, correction, teh 4bbl was STANDARD, and you could get a 2bbl as an
option, but who in their right mind would do that?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 23:20:17 EST
From: DonziKel@aol.com
Subject: Re: 68 Supreme  (was: Engine Block Bolts)

yeah, rub it in my face, so far i have been wrong about 2 out of 2 intake carb
questions, i hate you guys ;)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 23:27:44 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: compression test

Kevin,
A ballpark figure of compression can be estimated using this value. 
( If anyone has an 'AUTOMATH' copy, please verify this for me....)

(Cylinder Pressure - Atmospheric pressure) / Atmo = C.R.
Atmo for my area ( 1000 ft ) is about 14.7 psi.

(135 - 14.7) / 14.7 = 8.18367:1 CR

Second opinions? Joe P. ? Dave B. ?  Help me fellows.....
Donny A.
 

> ----------
> From: 	Kevin Grover[SMTP:Atvman@rochester.rr.com]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Monday, December 07, 1998 10:35 PM
> To: 	Oldsmobile mailing list
> Subject: 	compression test
> 
> If I put a pressure gauge in one of my plug holes and cranked the engine,
> and got a reading of 135 psi, what does that mean???
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 23:28:24 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: NOS???

Kelly,

You got that right....your just in a slump ;)

Randy


>New Old Stock

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 23:23:23 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Head bolt torque specs/blown gasket/best heads

The specs for a 72 350 are 80 ft-lbs.  Main bearing caps are 120 ft-lbs.

I got a set of #5 heads I'll sell you. Just pulled them off a '68 350. We
live pretty close.......exit 22 PA Turnpike (Morgantown) Chester - Lancaster
county border.

I'll give you a pair of #8's LOL yet?

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 22:42:16 -0800
From: Ted Griffin <griffint@govst.edu>
Subject: Re: Lic Plate Resto help

I read about this technique a long time ago, forget where.

Paint the whole plate with several good coats of lacquer in the LETTER
color first.  Let dry for several days.  Then spray the whole plate with
enamel, the background color, just enough to cover good.  Then  wipe off
the letters with a rag moistened in paint thinner.  Experiment with a
scrap plate.  Let the enamel dry a bit and you can wipe a real nice edge
on the letters.  I've never actually done this but I saw a plate that
was done this way and it looked great.

Griff
'63 Starfire
'29 F**d

Joe & Toni Artwell wrote:

>  <snip> does anyone have any advise/techniques for painting the
> letters. On the other plates  of that year it appears they were kind
> of rolled on. I tried masking it off but it doesn't  come out right.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 20:36:20 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: 67 w30

stanley smith wrote:
> 
> I have a1967 442 w30 / I think?  It has red plastic inner fenders and an
> (original)chrome dual snorkel aircleaner with hoses .The air  ducts
> between the headlights have been welded in.Also there is a grommet  and
> some drill holes in the trunk on the pass. side shelf.I would like to
> know if there are any other (w30?)things i should look for, especially
> any I.D. numbers  anywhere ,that would prove that my car is actually a
> real w30 .Iwas told that it was a factory drag car ,that came from SCOTT
> SMITH  OLDS  inOrlando Fla. they are now out of business and i can find
> no info on them.If any olds enthusiasts out there could help me out i
> would greatly appreciate it!!!!




Stanley,

It sounds like most of the tell-tale signs are there.
Keep in mind standard 1967 4-4-2's were often converted
to W-30's by dealerships.  As well as being created by
over the counter sales of Track Pac conversions.  
To help determine if it is one of the 502 factory
1967 W-30's, check the following.  All W-30s were
produced in Lansing, MI (Although many standard
4-4-2's were Lansing produced as well).  
The seventh digit of the VIN should be an "M".  
If the car is an automatic,
check the tag on the right side of the case.
The 1967 W-30 used a special TH400.  These are
coded WOG.  Another tip is the differential.
Factory 67 W-30's used a special 10 bolt "P" axle.
These units featured four pinion gears in the
carrier (normal differentials use two pinions).       
If the car still has the original 400 engine,
the C heads will have the A.I.R. bosses tapped
and plugged.  
Other things to look for:  The horns are 
relocated to the fenders.  If equipped with
power steering, a special pressure hose
was used to clear the OAI hoses. Several
additional ground straps were also used
to ensure sufficient grounding with the
trunk located battery.
Also check the air cleaner for a number
stamping.  On the earlier factory models, the
factory stamped a "production" number onto 
the housing.

I'm not sure I follow what you mean by the
ducts being welded in place.  The factory
inner and outer ducts were made of plastic
and were bolted to the core support.

Hope this helps.

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249

Web site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 21:56:03 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Head bolt torque specs/blown gasket/best heads

(I have over heated the motor)

Noooo.  I guess that overheating problem got the better of you.  What makes
you think the head/gasket is cracked.  I hope that with the new heads, the
heat problem is gone.  Anyway, I did a little research about building a
stout 403 (just like yours).  It seems that 7a or 5 heads are the best
choice.  I am sure the Edelbrock would be good if you are willing to pay the
price.  I am quite sure that nobody else makes a street head for a Olds
small or big block.  I assume that you ported your 7a.  I think that this is
all you need and would be a reasonable price.  A year ago or so I ran into a
couple of 7a at the local yard.  I WISH I pulled one pair off.  I would say
though that if you have no problem blowing away a '96 Vette, your car is
pretty damn good.  If memory serves, those are 13 second cars so you should
be faster.  If you are not running them already, I think that headers would
be a great choice.  Also, if memory serves, you got 3.08s.  You can always
upgrade to 3.23s or 3.55 or so for improved power and still decent cruise.
I am sure that you know all this crap, but am just voicing my opinion.  Here
in Canada, for me to get a set of Edelbrock heads would cost much more then
my entire motor/tranny budget was.  AS IF.  Being a University Student,
every olds dollar spent actually has a better place where it could be spent
(in other peoples eyes, not mine)  I doubt they are that great anyway, and I
am running crapy (but ported) J heads.  7a and 5s are supposed to be the
best small block stuff.  Good Luck and have fun.  Change a waterpump while
you are at it.  Just kidding.  Igor.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 20:45:24 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Webpage

Gene Gilpin wrote:
> 
> Could someone resubmit the one that had links to the guys webpage that had
> a burnout section. I got a little wild with the delete button again.
> Thanks
> Ed
> The Omega Man


Gene,
I believe this is what you're looking for:
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/Burnouts

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249

Web site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 22:01:15 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Head bolt torque specs/blown gasket/best heads

I forgot.  I think that you can cut big valves into any engine head.  I am
sure you know this and may have done it already, but if you didn't maybe it
is an area to look at.  You can get a set of J 455 heads or 403 4A heads
anywhere for dirt chap.  Pull the 2.000 and 1.625 valve of the 455 head or
2.000 and 1.507 of the 403 head and get them installed into your heads.
Also, if you run into a set of Ga 455 heads, they are supposed to have 1.685
exhaust valves.  2.072 intake valve would not be necessary, 2.000 is fine.
Just a thought.  Igor.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 23:06:23 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Head bolt torque specs/blown gasket/best heads

Ray,
Sorry to hear about the 409, was just admiring your page today.  You didn't
mention how you overheated it, could it have leaned out?  Happened to me
with my 350 and punched a hole right through one of the forged 10.25:1
slugs but didn't so much as warp the heads (72 7a's) but scored the h#ll out
of the cyl walls.  If you cracked a head I would be suprised.  As far as the
torque it would seem that the 403 tq would be higher since it uses a larger
head bolt but they dropped the tq for a reason so regardless I would go with
the 403 factory tq.  Best option is to get a good set of ARP bolts and
follow
thier recommended tq.

As far as heads I would stick with the 7a's.  You can stick the 2.072/1.625"
combo in them and keep the 64cc chambers.  Go with the stainless valves
as I dropped a TRW factory replacement which was not fun :-(  With a little
smoothing on the intake side, teardroping the guides, smoothing the AIR
bumps, and polishing the exhaust side they flow great.  Worked real well
in my 350 (until the valve dropped at 6,000rpm) with the rpm intake and a
bit more cam than your running.  Anyway, good luck!

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 22:03:02 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Head bolt torque specs/blown gasket/best heads

Sorry to take up bandwidth, but Ray there is always a 493 stroker olds. :-)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 00:32:23 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: compression test

I found the compression gauge readings for the OLDS in a MOTORs service
guide.
  Advertised CR         cyl pressure (PSI)
    10.50         >>       180
    10.25         >>       180
     9.00         >>       150
no PSI info on the 8.50 or 8.20 ( post '70 info is not in my book )

I have a formula scribbled down in the column of my book as 
CR = (PSI / atmo) - 2 [ For V-8's only ]  I'm not sure where I got this
from..

I hope this helps someone.

BTW: I DO have the real formula for CR. You HAVE to know all the volumes
though...(i.e. chamber, gasket, dish, piston clearance, piston swept volume,
exact bore, etc,etc.) And  then the bigger cams and valve timing will take a
little away from the answer you get..
    
Donny



> Kevin,
> A ballpark figure of compression can be estimated using this value. 
> ( If anyone has an 'AUTOMATH' copy, please verify this for me....)
> 
> (Cylinder Pressure - Atmospheric pressure) / Atmo = C.R.
> Atmo for my area ( 1000 ft ) is about 14.7 psi.
> 
> (135 - 14.7) / 14.7 = 8.18367:1 CR
> 
> Second opinions? Joe P. ? Dave B. ?  Help me fellows.....
> Donny A.
>  
> 
> 	----------
> 	From: 	Kevin Grover[SMTP:Atvman@rochester.rr.com]
> 	Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> 	Sent: 	Monday, December 07, 1998 10:35 PM
> 	To: 	Oldsmobile mailing list
> 	Subject: 	compression test
> 
> 	If I put a pressure gauge in one of my plug holes and cranked the
> engine,
> 	and got a reading of 135 psi, what does that mean???
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 7 Dec 1998 22:36:01 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Used Cam Question

According to the FAQ, the old cam I got out of my '76 Delta 88 455 should
have .435/.435 lift and 252/272 duration (I guess seat to seat).  I believe
that the '81 Delta 307 cam was milder, although I don't know the specs.  (if
anyone knows, PLEASE tell me).  Suppose that the 455 grind is bigger.  I
should be able to use this cam in my 307 and make it a decent 307 cam.  I
think that I can also get the bigger valves cut into my 5A heads.  I can get
2.000 and 1.625 or 1.507 valves form a BB J head or a 4A 403 head.  Have the
5As shaved a little and put original olds thin head-gaskets and that should
bring the CR. up to ~9.00.  I can also port & polish the exhaust side and
remove the AIR bump.  Use a set of headers and dual exhaust with turbo
mufflers.  Original intake and 4-bbl carb would be good enough.  This should
make for a low, low budget 307 that still has some guts.  What do you think.
Desk-Top dyno shows and optimistic 297 HP and 390 ft-LB torque.  Igor.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 00:46:14 -0500
From: Ken <olds442@en.com>
Subject: Re: compression test

Arnold, W D wrote:

> Kevin,
> A ballpark figure of compression can be estimated using this value.
> ( If anyone has an 'AUTOMATH' copy, please verify this for me....)
>
> (Cylinder Pressure - Atmospheric pressure) / Atmo = C.R.
> Atmo for my area ( 1000 ft ) is about 14.7 psi.
>
> (135 - 14.7) / 14.7 = 8.18367:1 CR
>
> Second opinions? Joe P. ? Dave B. ?  Help me fellows.....
> Donny A.
>

Using the 145-150psi figure from my motor would give me a compression ratio of
8.8:1.  Actual compression ratio of my motor is around 11:1.  I had heard that
radical cams bleed compression at very low rpms.  Actually thinking about it I
would say most cams probably bleed compression at cranking speed.  So I would
think any compression ratio you could figure from a compression test/formula
would definatly be ballpark.  Like one the size of Idaho..

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 00:55:54 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: Used Cam Question

Hello Igor,
I think there are only a few of us online tonight so I'll try to keep the
conversation going. Surely you aren't thinking about porting the heads and
getting bigger valves so they will be ready for the stock 455 cam now are
you?  ( I'm just picking at you ) I think you can get a cam/lifter set (
with some balls ) from PAW for $70-$80. 
Still budget, right?

AS for the power difference, I don't think you will notice that much diff
between the two cams.

Who knows, You might need the extra power to get you to the "BALLPARK in
IDAHO " !!  ( Right Ken??) 

Donny


> ----------
> From: 	Igor T. '81 DRB 455[SMTP:igor455@home.com]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Tuesday, December 08, 1998 12:36 AM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Used Cam Question
> 
> According to the FAQ, the old cam I got out of my '76 Delta 88 455 should
> have .435/.435 lift and 252/272 duration (I guess seat to seat).  I
> believe
> that the '81 Delta 307 cam was milder, although I don't know the specs.
> (if
> anyone knows, PLEASE tell me).  Suppose that the 455 grind is bigger.  I
> should be able to use this cam in my 307 and make it a decent 307 cam.  I
> think that I can also get the bigger valves cut into my 5A heads.  I can
> get
> 2.000 and 1.625 or 1.507 valves form a BB J head or a 4A 403 head.  Have
> the
> 5As shaved a little and put original olds thin head-gaskets and that
> should
> bring the CR. up to ~9.00.  I can also port & polish the exhaust side and
> remove the AIR bump.  Use a set of headers and dual exhaust with turbo
> mufflers.  Original intake and 4-bbl carb would be good enough.  This
> should
> make for a low, low budget 307 that still has some guts.  What do you
> think.
> Desk-Top dyno shows and optimistic 297 HP and 390 ft-LB torque.  Igor.
> 
> Igor Todorovic
> 1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 00:21:07 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1648

> Hello,

 Olds had a turbo'd V-8 at one time['62-'63?], so this could be considered 
Olds related.

  The Buick GN/Turbo regal turbos are a sort of a T3/T04 hybrid unit. They're 
a T04 compressor design, and a T3 turbine.
The early carb'd cars 78-83 are drawthrough [as are the turbo 301" TransAms], 
while the 84-87 Buicks blow into the intake
dry.

 NONE of these factory GM units flow near enough to feed a big V-8, and 
besides, even with the factory wastegate open they
would be be oversped due to the large amount of exhaust gas flow from a big 
engine. A pair of them can be matched to a big
V-8.

 Two main things must be chosen carefully on a turbo system. First, the 
compressor must match the airflow requirements of
the engine.  Second, the exhaust turbine must be properly sized, as to small 
an A/R can cause the turbo to over speed if
the wastegate can't bypass enough exhaust, and the small turbine will choke 
the exhaust flow off at high rpm. To large an
A/R will cause bad boost lag/low boost level, as the turbine may not be driven 
fast enough.

 I've been told by a Garrrett dealer that the early drawthrough V-6 unit flows 
enough to support 225-250 hp[each], and the
301" Transam unit flows enough to support 335 hp[each]. I'm not sure, but i'd 
say the 83-87 V-6 cars' unit is in between
somewhere[i've read it flows less than 500cfm].

 I understand the Buick units have either a .42 or .63 A/R turbine 
housing[depends on year], while the Pontiac unit has a
.81 A/R.  The pontiac unit's compressor is close to an aftermarket T04 V-2 trim


 I've been working on a twin turbo project of my own.  I'm using two of the 
TransAm units on a 511" motor. Two of these
units matches my 5000rpm engines airflow[cfm] requirements well
[at 12-18 psi], and the .81 A/R turbine housing is good also. They were 
drawthrough, but i'm adapting them to blow through
one big carb.

Check out a similar designed twin turbo car with old 301" transam turbos;
<http://www.tatribe.com/Garys81.htm>

I suggest the following two books on this subject;
Turbochargers, by Hugh Macinnes[ worked on factory turbo projects for 
Oldsmobile at one time]
Maximum boost, by Corky Bell

Dave Brode
64 Cutlass
67 *hevy prostreet pickup- current project- twin turbo/N20 511" motor


>
>
> Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 17:17:45 -0600
> From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
> Subject: Re: Olds engines and GN turbo systems
>
> well it is just an airesearch T04 so it will work on an olds engine(ie it is
> just about right in size you just need to fabricate the plumbing for it
> - -----Original Message-----
> From: SpeedCom@aol.com <SpeedCom@aol.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Monday, December 07, 1998 8:39 AM
> Subject: Re: Olds engines and GN turbo systems
>
> >In a message dated 12/7/98
> > 8:<BR33:<BR14 AM Central Standard Tim, Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com
> >writes:> Your
> >>  engine is fairly closely related to the GN engine, so add a turbo and
> fly!
> >
> >
> >Just curious, but is there any info about using these turbos on Olds V8s?
> Some
> >of the aftermarket bolt-ons flow around 1200 SCFM. Don't know the flow on
> the
> >factory unit, but with proper wastegate mods they should be able to give a
> big
> >V8 a decent boost for trailer towing :-)
> >

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 01:08:17 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: compression test

	Ken cleverly wrote:
> So I would
> think any compression ratio you could figure from a compression
> test/formula
> would definatly be ballpark.  Like one the size of Idaho..
> 
DOOOOHHHHH !!!!
   *cough*   *cough*   Uhhh,   *clear throat*       ..   soo, uhhh, are you
having a good ...ahhh   laugh ?

I know I am!!!  You got me on that one.  

Really, I did find the numbers listed in  "MOTOR's Service/Repair Manual"  I
know that the big cams do distort these readings alot.  I have a big cam too
but I don't remember my reading being to low.  I need to check it again to
see. 

Anyone else have some numbers to share?

Donny   

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 00:20:06 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Used Cam Question

Talk about a Junkyard Dog!  The combo sounds plausible and could be
a cheap learning experience on porting heads, etc.  I do agree that to
take advantage of the heads you will need a bit bigger cam.  Spend the
money and go more towards .500 lift to take advantage of the valves.
Just make sure to blend the short side radius and have the shop cutting
the valves cut the sides of the chambers to unshroud that intake valve
depending on where it sits.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>According to the FAQ, the old cam I got out of my '76 Delta 88 455 should
>have .435/.435 lift and 252/272 duration (I guess seat to seat).  I believe
>that the '81 Delta 307 cam was milder, although I don't know the specs.
(if
>anyone knows, PLEASE tell me).  Suppose that the 455 grind is bigger.  I
>should be able to use this cam in my 307 and make it a decent 307 cam.  I
>think that I can also get the bigger valves cut into my 5A heads.  I can
get
>2.000 and 1.625 or 1.507 valves form a BB J head or a 4A 403 head.  Have
the
>5As shaved a little and put original olds thin head-gaskets and that should
>bring the CR. up to ~9.00.  I can also port & polish the exhaust side and
>remove the AIR bump.  Use a set of headers and dual exhaust with turbo
>mufflers.  Original intake and 4-bbl carb would be good enough.  This
should
>make for a low, low budget 307 that still has some guts.  What do you
think.
>Desk-Top dyno shows and optimistic 297 HP and 390 ft-LB torque.  Igor.
>
>Igor Todorovic
>1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 22:13:18 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Head bolt torque specs/blown gasket/best heads

Igor T. '81 DRB 455 wrote:
> 
> Also, if you run into a set of Ga 455 heads, they are supposed to have 1.685
> exhaust valves.  2.072 intake valve would not be necessary, 2.000 is fine.
> Just a thought.  Igor.


Igor,

The 1972 GA heads that feature the 1.685 exhausts (when
used on 4-4-2's), can be found on non W-30 automatic
transmission
applications.  These all use the 1.995" intakes.   
This 1.685" exhaust valve utilizes a 30 degree face.
Which is designed to improve air flow at low valve lift.
For a performance application, the 1.625" exhaust valves
are a better choice.   

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249

Web site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 01:30:00 -0500
From: Norval Minnear <norval@ictransnet.com>
Subject: Re: compression test

Arnold, W D wrote:
> 
> Kevin,
> A ballpark figure of compression can be estimated using this value.
> ( If anyone has an 'AUTOMATH' copy, please verify this for me....)
> 
> (Cylinder Pressure - Atmospheric pressure) / Atmo = C.R.
> Atmo for my area ( 1000 ft ) is about 14.7 psi.
> 
> (135 - 14.7) / 14.7 = 8.18367:1 CR
> 
> Second opinions? Joe P. ? Dave B. ?  Help me fellows.....
> Donny A.
> 
> 
> > ----------
> > From:         Kevin Grover[SMTP:Atvman@rochester.rr.com]
> > Reply To:     oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Sent:         Monday, December 07, 1998 10:35 PM
> > To:   Oldsmobile mailing list
> > Subject:      compression test
> >
> > If I put a pressure gauge in one of my plug holes and cranked the engine,
> > and got a reading of 135 psi, what does that mean???
> >
Arnold pull all 8 plugs and run a compression test , write all 8 cyl.
compression down the lowest cyl. compression has to be within 25% of the
highest cyl. reading , then put 2 squirts of oil from an oil can into
each cyl. if the compression comes up when you run the test again than
its got bad rings, if the compression does not come up than it needs a
valve job...this has been a rule of thumb sence 1904 .have a good day///

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 00:46:46 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Eastwood Vinyl Paint

You stated that the super white is more beige white. Is there any white
that would resemble bright white?

Pettrix@prodigy.net


- ----------
> From: Jim & Sharon Brady <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Eastwood Vinyl Paint
> Date: Monday, December 07, 1998 6:05 PM
> 
> I have used both Landau Black and Super White on my recent project, my
'73
> Delta.  Landau Black looked simply black to me.  The only black's I can
> differentiate are flat, semi-gloss and gloss!  The Super White is
actually
> more of a beige type of white.  I used the brand advertised in Eastwood
but
> bought it from Car Quest for a couple bucks cheaper per can.  I can vouch
> for this brand, excellent!  Interior color was an easy choice for
> me...White!  Travel with a buddy with a black interior on a hot summer
day,
> very warm.  The car was triple white when I got it.  I needed a new top
and
> installed a black one since about the only times it would be up is in the
> winter(black absorbs heat) and rainy days.  Just sounded logical to me:
> white paint, white interior and black top.  Good Luck!
> 
> Jim Brady
> 1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
> http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
> bradyiii@shore.intercom.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 00:49:56 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: NOS???

Nitrous Oxide Systems
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Kevin Grover <Atvman@rochester.rr.com>
> To: Oldsmobile mailing list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: NOS???
> Date: Monday, December 07, 1998 9:34 PM
> 
> What does NOS stand for when referring to parts,  I know that it is the
name
> of a company that makes nitrous products.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 00:49:32 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: compression test

I believe on a new motorthe readings should be in the 170-180psi range. 
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Kevin Grover <Atvman@rochester.rr.com>
> To: Oldsmobile mailing list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: compression test
> Date: Monday, December 07, 1998 9:35 PM
> 
> If I put a pressure gauge in one of my plug holes and cranked the engine,
> and got a reading of 135 psi, what does that mean???

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 00:36:48 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Used Cam Question

>getting bigger valves so they will be ready for the stock 455 cam now are
>you?

I know, but the cam I have in my fresh 455 now is the first (smaller) PAW
cam.  It has .448/.472 lift and 204/214 @.050 duration.  It is a bit too
small for the 455 but still provides tractionless launch and tire-chrimping
shifts @4600 RPM.  This is in a big Delta 88 with 3.23 posi and 255/60/15
tires.  Smooth idle a decent fuel economy.  However, this is 461 cubic
inches.  The 307 is lots smaller so this cam should seam a lot bigger in the
307.  The 455 stock cam is a bit smaller then my current cam, so it should
do fine.  I guess that I would have to do more research on the complete
specks. for both the '76 and '81 cams.  I was just thinking that with the
combo I discussed, 3.73 gears in a lighter '80s Cutlass the 307 could do
okay.  According to the Desktop Dyno (and I think that it is always a bit
too optimistic)  the motor should really shine from 2200 to 5500+.  That
would be way enough for me from a 307.  250 HP 307 would be damn nice if you
ask me.  My 455 should make no more then 340 HP but (I know) 470+ ft-LB of
torque.  Still, the 307 should do more per cubic inch then my 455.  Maybe
not.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 02:39:36 EST
From: CCRR12@aol.com
Subject: Re: Great movies

Vanishing Point is a 1971 movie with Barry Newman. The car he drove and
destroyed was a Dodge Challenger. I think it was a '70' model. 
Your typical cross country road movie, not much dialogue or story. Seems like
all the road movies today are about cross country serial murderers!  I guess
having the cops chase you just for speeding is not enough anymore.

Randy in Okla
57 88 J2

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 00:39:17 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Head bolt torque specs/blown gasket/best heads

>The 1972 GA heads that feature the 1.685 exhausts (when
>used on 4-4-2's), can be found on non W-30 automatic
>transmission
>applications.  These all use the 1.995" intakes.
>This 1.685" exhaust valve utilizes a 30 degree face.
>Which is designed to improve air flow at low valve lift.
>For a performance application, the 1.625" exhaust valves
>are a better choice.

Thanks for the info.  But do you agree that the bigger valves (even 1.625)
can be cut into any olds v8 head.  I am also interested in putting 2.000 &
1.625 valves in my 5A heads (or bigger valves anyway).  So, IS IT POSSIBLE
to put the bigger valves into the 307.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 02:46:49 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Used Cam Question

In a message dated 12/7/98 11:39:51 PM Pacific Standard Time, igor455@home.com
writes:

<< According to the Desktop Dyno (and I think that it is always a bit
 too optimistic)  the motor should really shine from 2200 to 5500+.  That
 would be way enough for me from a 307.  250 HP 307 would be damn nice if you
>>

     Igor, what does the stock setup in either motor (455 and 307) spec out at
on desktop dyno, compared to published HP/Torque ratings? We all know that
there is gross and net HP/Torque ratings (SAE and BHP?) and I wonder how
Desktop is listing them..I bet it's BHP, and of course that will be higher
than SAE(?) ratings..but then again I bet you already thought of this. Also,
what about the lifters "wearing" to the cam? Do new lifters with an old cam
wear ok? I can't see why they wouldn't, but I have no first hand experience
with trying your intended cam swap..does sound interesting though! Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 05:40:44 EST
From: GBodyLover@aol.com
Subject: G Body Steering wheel column swap

I'm looking into the possibilities of replacing my stock non-tilt steering
column with a tilt model from another G body. From what I can see by reading
my Haynes manuel, there doesn't appear to be any differences in the columns
between the makes 
(Chevy, Pontiac, Olds, Buick). Has anyone done this before? I know that I can
probably expect some pin out problems, but if that's it, I'll be happy. How
hard is it to take the darn thing out anyway, I've been eyeballing mine and it
looks pretty straight forward. This swap will give me the perfect opportunity
to fix the broken left turn signal indicator (won't turn off after turning). I
know that there is a really easy way to do this, but I have to justify the
swap somehow right?!?!?!?!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 06:42:50 +0000
From: ejhufnagel1@juno.com (Edward J Hufnagel)
Subject: Parting '66 Delta,

Hi.  Am parting  my '66 Delta 88.  Have full set of wheel covers.  E-Mail
private if you want anything.  Car is located in New York, 1 hour fron
PA. and NJ. border and about 2 hours from Conn. border.  Not looking to
get rich + shipping

Regards,
                E.J.

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You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 07:06:18 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: 68 Supreme  (was: Engine Block Bolts)

My Supreme convertible came with buckets, console, A/C, tilt, and the
infamous 4bbl. delete option that included that gas sipping 2:56 rear axle
ratio.  This is as reported on the monroney label, which I still have.
Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: DonziKel@aol.com <DonziKel@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, December 07, 1998 11:18 PM
Subject: Re: 68 Supreme (was: Engine Block Bolts)


>Sorry, correction, teh 4bbl was STANDARD, and you could get a 2bbl as an
>option, but who in their right mind would do that?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 07 Dec 1998 22:08:49 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Lic Plate Resto help

Joe & Toni Artwell wrote:

> I have a set of 71 license plates that I am restoring. I striped them
> and painted the plate color. That came out great. My question is does
> anyone have any advise/techniques for painting the letters. On the other
> plates of that year it appears they were kind of rolled on. I tried
> masking it off but it doesn't come out right. I also tried useing a very
> fine roller but it dosen't work very well either. Brush leaves brush
> marks. Any ideas would be very helpful.
>                               Thanks

You might try using a sponge
From: Mark Hahn [mailto:mahahn@fuse.net]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 06:51:40 -0600 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: 307 Timing Chain

I have heard the FWD Buick V6's will kiss the exhaust valves if the cam gear
goes.  I do believe that the 88/98's with the 3800 (NOT 3.8L!) have steel
gears, possibly roller chain.  Anyone from the Buick camp confirm?

I have yet to get to mine, but I probably will next summer, new chain and
gears, and probably advance the cam 4 degrees.  

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 06:58:42 -0600 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Olds engines and GN turbo systems

I am not sure of the safety of running a Turbo on a gas engine in towing.
Sure diesels do, but with gas engines and turbo's in ChryCo they recommend
the V6 over the 4 popper and turbo.  Even though the turbo made more power.
I suspect the risk of piston damage due to head buildup is too great.
Diesels have huge heavy tough pistons, gas engines generally (factory) do
not.  Maybe built with forged slugs and recommendations from Gale Banks,
Andy Granitelli and the piston manufacturer, you could do it.

In racing on the street for me, 3 WOT passes from 55 to 100+ mph in a short
time made one of my pistons liquid.  That was a HD cast slug.  Just not
enough.  

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 06:42:40 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: Re: classic auto storage

In Vermont $45-$55 seems to be common

>Greetings fellow listers,
>  Considering turning part of a local building into an auto/motorhome
>storage facility. Does anyone know what a fair going monthly rate would
>be for heated storage with onsite security? No admission without being
>accompanied by storage representative.Thanks. B.D.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 08 Dec 1998 08:09:08 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Great movies

Gone in 60 seconds, is that the one with the green '69 Mustang with side
pipes? I seen a movie along time ago when I was a kid and they beat the
hell out of that Rustang. 

Ed
The Omega Man







At 08:28 PM 12/7/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Yes, I've seen it - and I can't believe the amount of abuse they put that
>Mustang through!  Kind of gives you some respect for the FoMoCo camp...
>Todd Daenzer
>'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a 'glide :-(
>'75 Supreme - project car....
>'82 Supreme - SB, 700R4, 3.73's - Grin!
>'86 Supreme - V-8 - daily driver...
>
>R. Grant wrote:
>
>> I liked Vanishing Point it had a good car chase but in the very last
part of
>> the movie the car they distroyed looks like a 67 Camero.
>> Did anyone see Gone in 60 Seconds? It had a 45 min car chase with about 85
>> car wreaked.
>> I feel that this might be the best car chase movie
>>
>> Kevin Grant
>> 80 Cutlass
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 8 Dec 1998 08:29:14 +0000
From: ejhufnagel1@juno.com (Edward J Hufnagel)
Subject: '66 Delta 2 and 4 door interchangeability

Hi list,
           Can someone tell me if the front fenders on a 2 door and the
front fenders on a 4 door  are interchangeable or is one a little longer
than the other?  Also is '66 interchangeable with  '67?  Thanks for any
and all h*lp

Regards,
                Ed

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You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
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------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1649
*********************************

