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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1692


oldsmobile-digest    Wednesday, December 30 1998    Volume 01 : Number 1692



new addition to the family
RE: [Weatherstrip]
Re: Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to 0.050".
Re: diesel stroker and other possibilities [long]
Re: Aluminum hoods and accesory
Re: [Re: [Weatherstrip]]
Re: Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to 0.050".
Re: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468 Olds Hemi???)
Re: Torque Converter Swap Backyard-Tech
Re: Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to 0.050".
RE: Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to 0.050".
RE: The Painting Fiasco
Re: MEMPHIS RUN
Re: new addition to the family
Lifter Preload Adjustment
Re: Aluminum hoods and accesory
Re: body shop est.
Re: Aluminum hoods and accesory
Re: HP ratings between auto to 4sp.
Re: [Weatherstrip]
Re: [Weatherstrip]
Re: The Painting Fiasco
Re: [Re: The Painting Fiasco]
Re: new addition to the family
Re: new addition to the family
Re: Stroker combos
Re: Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to 0.050".
Re: Lifter Preload Adjustment
Rack and pinion conversion
Disc brake conversion
Re: Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to 0.050".
subscribe
Re: Disc brake conversion
RE: Interior Vinyl Spray
Re: Disc brake conversion
Re: Did it again
Re: Lifter Preload Adjustment
Re: Disc brake conversion
Re: Disc brake conversion
Re: Did it again
SV: Disc brake conversion
Re: engine spec
SV: Disc brake conversion
Re: [Re: [Weatherstrip]]
Re: Disc brake conversion
Re: Disc brake conversion
Exhaust Manifold Bolts
Re: Disc brake conversion
Re: Disc brake conversion
Re: SV: Disc brake conversion
Re: Disc brake conversion
Re: [Re: [Re: [Weatherstrip]]]
Re: new addition to the family
Re: new addition to the family
Re: [Weatherstrip]

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 11:51:52 -0500
From: Darren King <KingD@sx.com>
Subject: new addition to the family

After getting a 79 Firebird, this summer and having a long
fall season, the snow is upon us and the bird must go away
(*sniff*).  Driving the Custom Cruiser to work was killing me
with gas so I set out to look for a smaller (or cooler!) replacement.

I got both!  A friend of a friend gave me a 79 Cutlass Salon with
what I assume is a Buck 231 V6 engine in it.  I'd never seen a
car like this before...from the front it looks like a G-body cutlass
but from the back it looks like a Citation!  This is one funny car.
It's all rusty but I like it and it's unique...not to mention it was free.

Anyone seen this model before?  What other years were this model
made (salon).  The tranny is not OD so I assume it's a TH-350,
right?

Thanks,

Darren King
79 Cutlass Salon
86 Custom Cruiser
79 Formula -> TA
88 S10 4x4...under construction.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 11:01:15 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: [Weatherstrip]

> << I have had metro stuff turn into dust still in plastic sitting in the
> trunk.Softseal is best i have seen.{used} Still not as good as OEM. My.02c
> >>
> 
> Damn, Damn, Damn, Damn!   I was hoping to use metro because Soft Seal
> should
> really be called concrete seal!  That stuff is as hard as rocks, maybe
> harder!
> Please tell me someone else out there has had better luck with metro!   
> 
> 
Didn't someone many months back recommend the Metro Gold version of
weatherstrip?  I have that post saved ...... somewhere.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 10:09:15 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to 0.050".

"Igor T. '81 DRB 455" wrote:
> 
> <snip>
> I wish that cam swaps were really easy and inexpensinve then I could try 
them all I wan't.

Yeah, I guess they don't make the two piece timing covers for the Olds
like Edelbrock has for (suprise, suprise) the SB Ch*vy.  With that and
heads designed to allow access to the lifters (like the 318 D*dg*) you
could swap cams in a couple of hours.  The toughest part would be
getting the radiator out of the way to get the cam out. 
> <snip>

> See if those guys have Olds BB experience or are they drawing their
> conclusion from the BB Chevy.

Well they claim to have Olds experience, in fact the guy I talked to has
flowbenched Mondello ported heads and heads he has done.  Believe it or
not, he says that the removing the A.I.R. bumps doesn't help flow as
much as working the bowls.  He said he could fill the heat risers for me
and then drill a 3/8" hole in it to provide some heat.

- -- 
Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 12:11:41 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: diesel stroker and other possibilities [long]

In a message dated 12/30/98 8:54:37 AM Pacific Standard Time,
jasonshreve@hotmail.com writes:

<< I am confused I guess.  How can you tell which type you have.  What does 
 the internals look like.  Which is better. >>

     If you pull the engine apart, it's the area that supports the crankshaft
bearings, at least the top half of them. Underneath the bearing surfaces is a
semi rectangular area that is connected (if I remember all this correctly) to
the side of the block. All 403's that anyone has seen so far are hollow in
this area, thus less stiff/strong I assume. I *think* most if not all Olds
blocks before '77 are solid in that area. Thus the "Solid Main Web" moniker.
Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 12:19:33 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Aluminum hoods and accesory

In a message dated 12/30/98 5:03:19 AM Pacific Standard Time, CS81w350@aol.com
writes:

<< Everytime the subject of aluminum hoods for g-bodies comes up, I feel
ripped
 off.  I have a 1981 cutlass supreme that originally had a diesel and it
 definitely has a steel hood.  Next time I get to the salvage yard I will
 definitely be packing a magnet.
  >>

     Next logical question in this thread..how much lighter ARE the hoods? I
bet they are kinda like the Corvette..it may be Fiberglass (or aluminum as the
case may be), but to keep it stiff, they had to use so much bracing that it is
about comparable weight wise to using sheet metal. At least the older ones..I
don't know about the C5's. And what's the drag racers addage? Every 100lbs
less loses a .10th? (or is it .001?) Hoods don't even weigh 100lbs steel on th
G-bodies....Dorian

------------------------------

Date: 30 Dec 98 10:23:20 MST
From: Bruce Suess <restoman@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: [Weatherstrip]]

oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:

I wouldn't use SoffSeal roof weatherstrip. It is very firm and the windows
will not seal correctly for a very long time, and you might have trouble
closing the door. There is another brand out there (may be Metro, may be
somebody else's) that is better. I think Specialty Olds carries it. Jim
Chermack gave the maker's name here a while back. Paging Mr. Chermack...

BTW, I used a few Metro items on my Buick and they were fine.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada



>Rubber lasts forever in CANADA metro won't last a year
in Arizona. Have had to replace bad metro stuff
MANY times.

RESTOMAN

____________________________________________________________________
More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://home.netscape.com/netcenter/mail

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 10:22:18 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to 0.050".

>Well they claim to have Olds experience, in fact the guy I talked to has
>flowbenched Mondello ported heads and heads he has done.  Believe it or
>not, he says that the removing the A.I.R. bumps doesn't help flow as
>much as working the bowls.  He said he could fill the heat risers for me
>and then drill a 3/8" hole in it to provide some heat.


Sounds good.  As for my A.I.R. bump it looked pretty nasty, and I mean it
was huge.  Maybe it is different with other heads but I would still do both
the bowl work and air bump.  If you but a smaller cam though, touch nothing
and you will still have tons of torque twisting the tires.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 12:35:36 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@intrlink.com>
Subject: Re: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468 Olds Hemi???)

Martin Thomas-WLTM07 wrote:
> 
> Anyone find a way to adapt the Quad 4 head to a 350 Rocket?

I seriously doubt it'd even come close.  Unlike some GM 4 cylinders
(Like the pontiac 4 cylinder, which I beleive was a V-8 with a cylinder
bank lopped off.) the quad-4 was completely designed from the ground
up.  It's nothing like a Rocket V8.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 10:32:51 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Torque Converter Swap Backyard-Tech

>This is not an accurate way to check the stall, is it?  Every book I 
>have read says it is not.


I know but what else I could do.  

>I can keep my
>>foot as hard as possible on the floor, the highest I have been able to 
>bring
>>it up to is 2200 and them the tires go up in smoke.  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 12:34:06 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to 0.050".

In a message dated 12/30/98 9:25:27 AM Pacific Standard Time, igor455@home.com
writes:

<< Sounds good.  As for my A.I.R. bump it looked pretty nasty, and I mean it
 was huge.  Maybe it is different with other heads but I would still do both
 the bowl work and air bump.  If you but a smaller cam though, touch nothing
 and you will still have tons of torque twisting the tires. >>

      Igor, going with the 214/224 (or VERY similar) in my car. Its a Blue
racer. (or wolverine too I think) Of course this is in the 403, but looking at
the specs between stock 455's '74-'76, they are quite close in torque and HP
output. I decided on this cam because it was the biggest that would work with
a stock torque converter, and it's rpm band wasn't up TOO high (1500 to I
believe 5500) I know I won't personally go near 5500, so anything that made
power later than 1500 and after 5500 is pretty much worthless to me. I also
wanted to keep the smooth idle. Lopey cams are cool in hot rods, but mines
still a daily driver, so I wanted to keep it kinda smooth.  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 12:15:45 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to 0.050".

> Yeah, I guess they don't make the two piece timing covers for the Olds
> like Edelbrock has for (suprise, suprise) the SB Ch*vy.  With that and
> heads designed to allow access to the lifters (like the 318 D*dg*) you
> could swap cams in a couple of hours.  The toughest part would be
> getting the radiator out of the way to get the cam out. 
> 
Chris Witt sells the two piece timing covers for Olds.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 09:49:00 -0800
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: The Painting Fiasco

Just to chime in and add a sample point to the question about what painting
should cost. 

Wise words from this thread. My 66 Starfire paint job cost $5,000 including
replacing the two (mostly bondo) front fenders.

It came out fantastic. Quite beyond my expectations. You see, I've painted
my convertible twice or so now and have gotten used to little drips, runs,
sags, orange peel,
etc. which just seem to part of a repaint. Not on this one.

The catgories of painters Randy cites are right on the money. This time
through luck of the draw (more or less), I got a guy who rebuilds GTO's and
he liked the Starfire for being similar enough to be interesting work to
him. 

I guess it's too bad that this job costs so much relative to all those other
really great fixes we can do to our Olds' for 12 bucks, but to me at this
stage of life, it's worth it.

cf

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 12:58:24 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: MEMPHIS RUN

Don,

There are two nice places that come to mind.  Since I have been unable
to get back South for a while I can't think of them right off the top of
my head, but they can be found in the Memphis yellow pages.  One
junkyard is on Old Horn Lake road just Southwest of Memphis off of
I-55.  He seems to have a pretty good selection of GM cars, but be sure
to call before you make the trip (not that it's a long one, but it may
save disappointment).  Really nice guys there, and the yard is lined
with shredded tires, to keep you from traipsing through three foot weeds
just to get one little fastener.  For the BMW, there is a place on
Second Avenue in downtown Memphis that specializes in foreign car repair
and restoration. I know that he has extensive Volvo access and I am sure
he can help you with the BMW.  Again, be sure to call first, for the
same reason.  I seem to remember the Yellow Pages being full of
different people and yards that specialinze in one thing or another, so
you may get lucky, and there are a lot more junkyards in the Memphis
area than one would think.  Good luck, and while you're there be sure to
say Hello to my beaustiful Southland, I sure wish I was there.
Brian.

Don Sowers wrote:
> 
> It appears I will be going from Lexington, Ky to Nashville,Tn to
> Memphis, Tn early Thursday morning.  Anybody know of any good 69-72
> Cutlass yards on the way down?  Anybody on the list live down that way?
> NEXT QUESTION-  Does anyone know of a source that would have a used
> passenger front fender for a 1991 BMW 525 in the general area?  I know
> this is an OLDS list, but a lot of us have different cars for different
> uses and for different reasons (i.e., the price was right, etc, etc), so
> I thought I would ask.  You never know.  For example, when I go to a
> salvage yard I look at everything pretty much in case I, or someone I
> know, need something next time that I didn't need this time.  Kind of
> like storing datat for future access.   TIA for any constructive
> commentary........
> 
> Don Sowers
> Nicholasville, Ky

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 13:05:13 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: new addition to the family

I had a Hot Wheels car just like this when I was a kid.  Underneath
where they usually told you what kind of car it was said 442!  I don't
know what that was all about, but I have seen the regular Salon like
yours, looks just like my 86 Brougham on the inside (well, almost). 
Also, I don't think Olds was the only one to use this body style.  It
seems I saw a Buick like that at one time, but it could have been a
hallucination, or a wierd dream, or whatever.
Brian.  

Darren King wrote:
> 
> After getting a 79 Firebird, this summer and having a long
> fall season, the snow is upon us and the bird must go away
> (*sniff*).  Driving the Custom Cruiser to work was killing me
> with gas so I set out to look for a smaller (or cooler!) replacement.
> 
> I got both!  A friend of a friend gave me a 79 Cutlass Salon with
> what I assume is a Buck 231 V6 engine in it.  I'd never seen a
> car like this before...from the front it looks like a G-body cutlass
> but from the back it looks like a Citation!  This is one funny car.
> It's all rusty but I like it and it's unique...not to mention it was free.
> 
> Anyone seen this model before?  What other years were this model
> made (salon).  The tranny is not OD so I assume it's a TH-350,
> right?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Darren King
> 79 Cutlass Salon
> 86 Custom Cruiser
> 79 Formula -> TA
> 88 S10 4x4...under construction.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 12:02:00 -0600
From: "John C. Ramsey" <jramsey@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Lifter Preload Adjustment

Hey folks,

    I've got a question regarding lifter preload adjustment.  The method
that I have previously used in adjusting my rocker arms has been to get each
cylinder to top dead center on the compression stroke, get the clearance to
zero lash, then tighten it 1/2 turn.  This has yielded marginal results at
best to this point, leaving me with some valve train noise and an overly
rough idle.  This rough idle seems to smooth out when the rpms go up a bit.

    I noticed that Joe Mondello's technical reference manual says to tighten
to 3/4 to 1 turn, which, according to my measurements (which I'm sure could
be wrong) would be between 0.070" and 0.080", which seems like a lot.  I
also recognize that having less lifter preload can "fool" the engine into
making it think it has a bigger cam than it has... and that wouldn't help
the idle any.

    I have  a '68 Toro 455 in my '69 Cutlass.  It has a JM-20-22 hydraulic
camshaft with Mondello (Comp Cams) stamped steel roller rockers and the
correct pushrods (came in the Mondello kit).  The car is pretty sensitive to
this valve adjustment, and I'm pretty sure that it is what's causing my idle
problems.  If nothing else, I'd like to get everything on the valve train
squared away before jumping into my carburetor and ignition.  If I can get
the mechanics set properly, then I can get the rest fairly easily.

    Any help or advice I can get would be GREATLY appreciated.

Thanks!
John Ramsey
'69 Cutlass 'S' 455

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 13:20:10 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Aluminum hoods and accesory

 >      Next logical question in this thread..how much lighter ARE the
hoods? 

I parted out an 84 Delta this past summer.  It had an aluminum hood.  Now I
don't know what a stock metal hood weighs in at but the aluminum is just
over 10lbs.



Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 13:40:25 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: body shop est.

....I enjoyed reading your post. It sounds like you are a guy I would like to
meet. As for some others on this list, I would like to beat them. On a
dragstrip....of course!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 13:56:07 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Aluminum hoods and accesory

In a message dated 12/30/98 10:16:05 AM Pacific Standard Time,
docbob@caninet.com writes:

<< I parted out an 84 Delta this past summer.  It had an aluminum hood.  Now I
 don't know what a stock metal hood weighs in at but the aluminum is just
 over 10lbs. >>

     Must make pulling the hood off pretty easy : )  Thats probably 40lbs less
than a regular steel one I bet.  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 13:56:41 -0500
From: Todd <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: HP ratings between auto to 4sp.

DYeager535@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 12/29/98 2:30:16 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> docbob@caninet.com writes:
>
> << My question was how much hp. does the different transmission eat up in hp.
>  Does a 4 speed take less to drive the a th350 and a th400.??  And what are
>  the differences??
>
>  Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
>  Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454 >>
>
>      The manual will have less HP loss than the automatics of that time. The
> torque converter is a definate HP loser.  Perhaps, since these were 
production
> vehicles, the cams that were used in the manual transmission, which has no
> load on the motor at idle, were too "harsh" to use on a vehicle that was sort
> of intended to be daily driven. Maybe the idle was just too lopey in drive at
> idle? Anybody that has a manual trans grind cam in an automatic could 
probably
> say.  All just my thoughts of course, Dorian

If memory serves me the Th400 eats aprox. 45 HP, the TH350 uses about 30HP
and the PG/JetAway uses about 20HP.  I don't remember where I saw these numbers
posted but they seem to fall pretty close to true...  We used my friends '68
Chevelle as
a test bed for the difference between the TH400 vs TH350 - he picked up nearly 
two
tenths
by switching to the TH350 behind his 327 - which we attributed to 3 things:  1)
the 350
weighed less; 2)  the 350 has a slightly lower first gear (2.52 vs 2.48 - if I
remember correctly)
3) and finally the supposed HP loss difference.
The differences in loss also seem plausible when considering the size (mass) of
the internals
on each of these transmissions....

Todd Daenzer
'69 Rag top... is it spring yet????

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 11:15:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Weatherstrip]

I just replaced my weatherstripping recently.  A while back, there was
another thread about weatherstripping, and from what I read, I went
with Soft Seal.  It was pretty hard, and the doors didn't close right
for about 2 weeks or so, but now that it's compressed, It seals great.
 My vote goes with Soft Seal, although I don't know what the life span
of it is.

Stefan
Ol' Blue - 1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
The Orange Peel - 1978 Subaru GF winter beater


- ---Bruce Suess <restoman@netscape.net> wrote:
>
> oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:
> Has anyone used Super Soft (manufactured by Metro) weatherstripping?
How
> does it hold-up to Soft Seal?
> 
> Pettrix@prodigy.net
> 
> I have had metro stuff turn into dust still in plastic
> sitting in the trunk.Softseal is best i have seen.{used}
> Still not as good as OEM. My.02c 
> 
> RESTOMAN
> 
> ____________________________________________________________________
> More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today
at http://home.netscape.com/netcenter/mail
> 

_________________________________________________________
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Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 14:32:12 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: [Weatherstrip]

Bill and all

        Yes Softseal is hard. Especially for use on the roof rail and doors. I
have used Metro with great results. Much softer than Softseal. Softseal does
have a better vertical side window strip (the one between the front and rear
windows on a hartop). Metro's is too soft.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts

At 10:50 AM 12/30/98 , you wrote:
>In a message dated 12/30/1998 10:03:40 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>restoman@netscape.net writes:
>
><< I have had metro stuff turn into dust still in plastic sitting in the
>trunk.Softseal is best i have seen.{used} Still not as good as OEM. My.02c  >>
>
>Damn, Damn, Damn, Damn!   I was hoping to use metro because Soft Seal should
>really be called concrete seal!  That stuff is as hard as rocks, maybe harder!
>Please tell me someone else out there has had better luck with metro!   
>
>Bill (really doesn't want to use Rock Seal) K

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 14:55:28 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: The Painting Fiasco

Chris Fair wrote:
> 
> Just to chime in and add a sample point to the question about what painting
> should cost.
> 
> Wise words from this thread. My 66 Starfire paint job cost $5,000 including
> replacing the two (mostly bondo) front fenders.
> 
> It came out fantastic. Quite beyond my expectations. You see, I've painted
> my convertible twice or so now and have gotten used to little drips, runs,
> sags, orange peel,
> etc. which just seem to part of a repaint. Not on this one.

Most of these kinds of problems can be cured with a buffer, some rubbing
compound, a lot of time and a gentle touch.  My father used to remove
runs when he saw them while painting a car with masking tape gently
applied to the appropriate spots.
 
> The catgories of painters Randy cites are right on the money. 

I, too, agreed with his evaluations.  I've know a lot of each of the
catagories, and some that looked like they were painted with a brush and
roller.

> he liked the Starfire for being similar enough to be interesting work to
> him.

An interested worker is a happy worker which makes the customer happy
with a great piece of handiwork....
Difficult to butcher a job if you like that job.  Not hard at all if you
hate what you are doing or who you are doing it for.....

------------------------------

Date: 30 Dec 98 13:06:40 MST
From: Bruce Suess <restoman@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: The Painting Fiasco]

oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:
Chris Fair wrote:
> 
> Just to chime in and add a sample point to the question about what painting
> should cost.
> 
> Wise words from this thread. My 66 Starfire paint job cost $5,000 including
> replacing the two (mostly bondo) front fenders.
> 
> It came out fantastic. Quite beyond my expectations. You see, I've painted
> my convertible twice or so now and have gotten used to little drips, ru
> sags, orange peel,
> etc. which just seem to part of a repaint. Not on this on 
Most of these kinds of problems can be cured with a buffer, some rubbing
compound, a lot of time and a gentle touch.  My father used to remove
runs when he saw them while painting a car with masking tape gently
applied to the appropriate spots.
 
> The catgories of painters Randy cites are right on the money. 

I, too, agreed with his evaluations.  I've know a lot of each of the
catagories, and some that looked like they were painted with a brush and
roller.

> he liked the Starfire for being similar enough to be interesting work to
> him.

An interested worker is a happy worker which makes the customer happy
with a great piece of handiwork....
Difficult to butcher a job if you like that job.  Not hard at all if you
hate what you are doing or who you are doing it for.....
...............................................................

Your right on the money Don,thats why I work for 
my self now. On my own stuff...can't get anymore
interested than that.Results are always better on
your own stuff nomatter how much money someone else
might pay you to work on theirs

RESTOMAN

____________________________________________________________________
More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://home.netscape.com/netcenter/mail

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 16:08:21 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: new addition to the family

On Wed, 30 Dec 1998, Darren King wrote:
> I got both!  A friend of a friend gave me a 79 Cutlass Salon with
> what I assume is a Buck 231 V6 engine in it.  I'd never seen a
> car like this before...from the front it looks like a G-body cutlass
> but from the back it looks like a Citation!  This is one funny car.
> It's all rusty but I like it and it's unique...not to mention it was free.

They made these the first 2-3 years of the downsized GM intermediates. The
"aeroback" body was used by Olds and Buick. They didn't seem too popular
then and you hardly ever see one these days. Like a lot of things, at the
time they were new I didn't care for them, but nowadays I think they are
kind of neat. There's one I see around here occasionally in very good
shape and I wouldn't mind having one, but I think they would have either
the V-6 or the Olds 260. They made a 4-4-2 version, and I don't know what
that would have in it for an engine. I think the tranny you have is the
notorious first-generation TH-200. Keep an eye on it, they aren't known
for long life. But hey, it's free... :)

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 12:37:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: new addition to the family

<snip>
> > I got both!  A friend of a friend gave me a 79 Cutlass Salon with
> > what I assume is a Buck 231 V6 engine in it.  I'd never seen a
> > car like this before...from the front it looks like a G-body cutlass
> > but from the back it looks like a Citation!  This is one funny car.
> > It's all rusty but I like it and it's unique...not to mention it
was free.
> > 
> > Anyone seen this model before?  What other years were this model
> > made (salon).  <snip>

- ----------------------------------------------------

I don't know what year this car was, but I saw one odd looking Monte
Carlo on one of those "Scariest Police Chases" shows. The Monty Carlo
is cruising down this road and they are showing it from through the
windshield of the cruiser behind him. I thought it was a Citation and
got all excited. (My first car I ever owned and it was the funnest
yet) And then the narrator says that it was a Monte Carlo. I thought
that they just had things mixed up, but I searched and sure enough,
there were some Monte Carlos that look like a Citation from the back
and a mid 80's Monte up front. They are definetly some unique looking
machines. 

Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 14:40:16 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Re: Stroker combos

Actually he says you can run it to 5500 rpm but not above that. Supposed to 
make
a great tow/motorhome engine. Should be a real strong street engine too, but
forget about ever hooking it up on street tires, way too much torque.

Shane Gibreal

Greg wrote:

> I believe Mondello has done some work in this area.  His 493 stroker uses
> Buick rods on a custom ground crank and special pistons.  Very low rpm motor
> though (up to 4500rpms if I remember right).
>
> -greg
>
> >Alright Dave, you got me really thinking now....
> >
> >Has anyone checked into the possibility of using other B,P, or C cranks in
> >the olds SB or BB to increase the stroke?
> >I'd bet it would a whole lot cheaper to buy a stoker crank made for this
> >purpose than to figure out, buy, machine, and adapt parts, to fit. Plus
> >buying a stroker crank from KB or DM or whoever makes 'em would save a
> >person about $1000 in aspirin and hard liquor !
> >
> >Has anyone had enough 'free' time to probe into these combos?
> >
> >Just curious. I think?
> >
> >Now it's really getting fun ...... maybe?
> >
> >Donny Arnold
> >w.d.arnold@lmco.com
> >
> >72  Olds 442
> >41 Chevy
> >63 Chevy Truck
> >
> >

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 15:02:42 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Re: Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to 0.050".

Cliff Simpson wrote:

> "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" wrote:
> >
> > <snip>
> > I wish that cam swaps were really easy and inexpensinve then I could try 
them all I wan't.
>
> Yeah, I guess they don't make the two piece timing covers for the Olds
> like Edelbrock has for (suprise, suprise) the SB Ch*vy.

Mondello does sell a two piece tming cover.

Shane Gibreal

> .
>
> --
> Cliff Simpson
> csimpson@ucalgary.ca
> '69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 15:16:05 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Re: Lifter Preload Adjustment

I am running the same rocker kit from Mondello with a JM-25-28 cam, and my
rockers are very noisy too, whether I run them tight or loose. Can't remember
where they're set now 'cause I changed the preload so many times to try to
lessen the noise. But I think it's either 1/2 or 3/4 of a turn after zero lash.

Shane Gibreal

John C. Ramsey wrote:

> Hey folks,
>
>     I've got a question regarding lifter preload adjustment.  The method
> that I have previously used in adjusting my rocker arms has been to get each
> cylinder to top dead center on the compression stroke, get the clearance to
> zero lash, then tighten it 1/2 turn.  This has yielded marginal results at
> best to this point, leaving me with some valve train noise and an overly
> rough idle.  This rough idle seems to smooth out when the rpms go up a bit.
>
>     I noticed that Joe Mondello's technical reference manual says to tighten
> to 3/4 to 1 turn, which, according to my measurements (which I'm sure could
> be wrong) would be between 0.070" and 0.080", which seems like a lot.  I
> also recognize that having less lifter preload can "fool" the engine into
> making it think it has a bigger cam than it has... and that wouldn't help
> the idle any.
>
>     I have  a '68 Toro 455 in my '69 Cutlass.  It has a JM-20-22 hydraulic
> camshaft with Mondello (Comp Cams) stamped steel roller rockers and the
> correct pushrods (came in the Mondello kit).  The car is pretty sensitive to
> this valve adjustment, and I'm pretty sure that it is what's causing my idle
> problems.  If nothing else, I'd like to get everything on the valve train
> squared away before jumping into my carburetor and ignition.  If I can get
> the mechanics set properly, then I can get the rest fairly easily.
>
>     Any help or advice I can get would be GREATLY appreciated.
>
> Thanks!
> John Ramsey
> '69 Cutlass 'S' 455

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 15:19:00 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Rack and pinion conversion

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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Just got home and was sifting through the digests from
when I was gone.  As far as why you would want to=20
install a rack there are several reason's.  1)  Reduced
weight off the nose,  2)  Quicker steering ratio, 3) KISS
(simplicity), etc.=20

As far as actually doing it it depends on what rack you=20
use.  Most common is the pinto unit but have seen many
different brands used.  First thing to tackle is to actually
mount the rack.  Simply fabricate two pads to weld to the
crossmember to bolt the rack to.  Next is the column linkage.
Usually it is necessary to cut two holes in the frame to pass=20
the shaft from the rack to the intermediate shaft through.  This
shaft needs a support to keep in in the proper position and
properly phased U-joints, and you usually end up adding two
shafts with universals between the rack and the column.  This
is all standard street rod stuff and is available over the=20
counter.  Next thing is to adapt the rod ends to the width of
your car.  Simply cut off the ends of the rack, add/remove=20
shaft length,  and reweld.  This is standard fare on most=20
drag cars also.  The last step is usually the hardest and=20
only applies to power racks.  This involves adapting the rack
and current power steering pump to the motor or simply=20
adapting the hoses, it all depends on the combo.  If you
can fabricate and have access to a welder it's not all that
difficult to do, just make sure to center the rack side to side.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme
=20
=20

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<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Just got home and was sifting through the =
digests=20
from</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>when I was gone.&nbsp; As far as why you =
would want to=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>install a rack there are several =
reason's.&nbsp;=20
1)&nbsp; Reduced</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>weight off the nose,&nbsp; 2)&nbsp; Quicker =
steering=20
ratio, 3) KISS</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>(simplicity), etc.&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>As far as actually doing it it depends on =
what rack=20
you&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>use.&nbsp; Most common is the pinto unit but =
have seen=20
many</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>different brands used.&nbsp; First thing to =
tackle is=20
to actually</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>mount the rack.&nbsp; Simply fabricate two =
pads to weld=20
to the</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>crossmember to bolt the rack to.&nbsp; Next =
is the=20
column linkage.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000>Usually it is =
necessary to=20
cut two holes in the frame to pass </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>the shaft from the rack to the intermediate =
shaft=20
through.&nbsp; This</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>shaft needs a support to keep in in the =
proper position=20
and</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>properly phased U-joints, and you usually end =
up adding=20
two</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT><FONT color=3D#000000>shafts with =
universals=20
between the rack and the column.&nbsp; This</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>is all standard street rod stuff and is =
available over=20
the&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>counter.&nbsp; Next thing is to adapt the rod =
ends to=20
the width of</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>your car.&nbsp; Simply cut off the ends of =
the rack,=20
add/remove&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>shaft length,&nbsp; and reweld.&nbsp; This is =
standard=20
fare on most </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>drag cars also.&nbsp; The last step is =
usually=20
the hardest and&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>only applies to power racks.&nbsp; This involves adapting the =
rack</DIV>
<DIV>and current power steering pump to the motor or simply&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>adapting the hoses, it all depends on the combo.&nbsp; If you</DIV>
<DIV>can fabricate and have access to a welder it's not all that</DIV>
<DIV>difficult to do, just make sure to center the rack side to =
side.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Mike B<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:mbloomer@gateway.net">mbloomer@gateway.net</A><BR>ICQ#=20
19113713<BR>72 Cutlass S (RIP)<BR>68 Cutlass =
Supreme<BR></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>&nbsp;</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_00D3_01BE3407.BA336B60--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 15:32:31 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Disc brake conversion

Got a question for everyone.  I am wanting to convert my
68 to later model F body discs and have been trying to
figure out how to do it "on the cheap".  First stumbling block
is the different ball joint taper.  After reading in a circle track
mag I found out that you can simply ream out the spindle 
with a hand-held reamer to change the taper.  The next 
hurdle is that it throws the upper control arm towards the 
engine and I don't really wan't to spend the money on a 
tubular upper arm from global west.  My idea is to scrounge
the junkyards for a car that would have a narrower upper 
A arm to compensate for the extra hieght of the spindle.
I have done this swap before with the H-O racing ball 
joints but as there no longer around the alternatives are
somewhat expensive.  All I'm trying to do is figure out how
to physically bolt them in (prop valve, master cyl, etc will come
later after this is settled).  

Question is has anyone ever done this?  I've hot a 350 with
manifolds so clearance isn't a problem.

TIA
Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme
 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 14:44:54 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to 0.050".

Everyone will be glad to hear that I bought a cam and I won't be
asking anymore dumb camshaft questions:)  I wimped out and got the
214/224 one.

Thanks again to everyone for their input.

- -- 
Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 16:52:40 EST
From: Elboroomxx@aol.com
Subject: subscribe

please add me to your chat email list  thank you chas mansfield

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 16:10:44 -0600 (CST)
From: blue442@webtv.net
Subject: Re: Disc brake conversion

Hello,
I also have the H-O disc conversion kit, on my 68 442.  I'd like to know
where I can get replacement ball joints, especially the top.  I
understand the H-O kit helped handling by raising the upper spindle
mount using the f-body spindle.  Their upper b.j (stands for ball joint,
no Lou pun intended  :-),) seemed to be "taller" than necessary, so I
assumed it helped continue the high top spindle pivot position.  I would
not mind a shorter top ball joint, as the H-O type looks weak, but I am
somewhat hesitant about reaming the spindle myself.  If anyone has a
replacement part # I'd appreciate it.

TIA,
Jeff Carter
blue442@webtv.net 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 17:24:33 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Interior Vinyl Spray

I painted the crash pad in one of my Cutlasses once.  I used a vinyl paint
spray in a can purchased at pep boys.  It came out just fine.  If you get a
high quality  type and the correctly matched color and do it right, I'm sure
it'd look real good.

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

<words> -----Original Message-----
<words> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
<words> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Peter Landowski
<words> Sent: Wednesday, December 30, 1998 01:18 Costanzo
<words> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
<words> Subject: Interior Vinyl Spray
<words>
<words>
<words> When you spray your interior parts a different color is it OK to use
<words> lacquer? I am using the SEM product line and they claim to
<words> buy a product
<words> they make called vinyl prep. Would not using lacquer be the
<words> same? Instead
<words> of spending $$$ on a can of SEM cleaner.
<words>
<words>
<words> Pettrix@prodigy.net
<words>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 17:22:48 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Disc brake conversion

In a message dated 12/30/98 4:35:27 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mbloomer@gateway.net writes:

<< Got a question for everyone.  I am wanting to convert my
 68 to later model F body discs and have been trying to
 figure out how to do it "on the cheap".  First stumbling block
 is the different ball joint taper.  After reading in a circle track
 mag I found out that you can simply ream out the spindle 
 with a hand-held reamer to change the taper.  The next 
 hurdle is that it throws the upper control arm towards the 
 engine and I don't really wan't to spend the money on a 
 tubular upper arm from global west.  My idea is to scrounge
 the junkyards for a car that would have a narrower upper 
 A arm to compensate for the extra hieght of the spindle.
 I have done this swap before with the H-O racing ball 
 joints but as there no longer around the alternatives are
 somewhat expensive.  All I'm trying to do is figure out how
 to physically bolt them in (prop valve, master cyl, etc will come
 later after this is settled).  
 
 Question is has anyone ever done this?  I've hot a 350 with
 manifolds so clearance isn't a problem. >>

if you want to avoid buying the expensive tubular a-arms, your going to need
to buy a pair of MOOG offset shafts.  take your original shafts, cut off the
stud ends, and use them as spacers/stiffeners between the offset a-arms and
the mount.  in other words, use them as spacers since you cant use that many
shims.  next, your going to need to get longer, higher quality, metric grade
10.9 M12x1.75x80 bolts to mount the arms and spacers.  part # for the MOOG
offset shaft is K-6218.  i think they come in pairs.  i hope this helps, it
sure will save you alot of money!!
jeremy
BIGJERMES@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 16:52:41 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Did it again

Kim, 
Thanks, We keep fighting over who will be Pres. and who will be V.P. Always
hate to be second to Peter. He's really bossy!
Plus his family fought on the wrong side. Olds content, luv everyone who
has a Supreme, still have the 442, but thats almost snobbish.
Lou
- ----------
> From: Kimberly Ann Wandrey <kaw0006@jove.acs.unt.edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 17:21:37 -0600
From: "Greg" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Lifter Preload Adjustment

My Crane roller rockers are making noise too.  I might not even bother
relashing them if all rollers do it.

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 17:43:02 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Disc brake conversion

Don't think that I'll have to resort to the spacer or the longer
bolts as when I did the conversion to my 72 I only had 1/4 to
1/2" of shims for the upper arms.  Is the 68 frame that much
different?  One of the other reasons I was thinking of trying
to use something like a F body arm is that they are rather
straight whereas the A body ones drop down due to the
short spindle.  What this gave me was about a foot and
a half of droop when I jacked up the car.  I was thinking that
with straighter arms the angle they sit at would be less
noticable and the snubber would contact sooner to limit
droop.  Sound reasonable?  Thanks for the offset shaft
p/n.  May go that way after all.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>if you want to avoid buying the expensive tubular a-arms, your going to
need
>to buy a pair of MOOG offset shafts.  take your original shafts, cut off
the
>stud ends, and use them as spacers/stiffeners between the offset a-arms and
>the mount.  in other words, use them as spacers since you cant use that
many
>shims.  next, your going to need to get longer, higher quality, metric
grade
>10.9 M12x1.75x80 bolts to mount the arms and spacers.  part # for the MOOG
>offset shaft is K-6218.  i think they come in pairs.  i hope this helps, it
>sure will save you alot of money!!
>jeremy
>BIGJERMES@aol.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 17:49:46 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Disc brake conversion

The upper ball joint isn't a problem.  The earlier and later ball joints
both bolt in the same way if I remember correctly.  I tried to use
off the shelf parts (I'm still conviced that the parts in the kit were off
the shelf but you just have to find the right app.) for the car I got the
spindles off of.  The problem was the lower ball joint which was a
different diameter where it presses into the arm.  The upper ball
joints looked identical.  My reason for reaming the spindle is so that
I can buy a front end rebuild kit for the car and it will have all the right
parts instead of buying parts I'm not going to use.  The thing that
always worried me with the H-O kit is what happens if a lower ball
joint goes bad?

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

Hello,
I also have the H-O disc conversion kit, on my 68 442.  I'd like to know
where I can get replacement ball joints, especially the top.  I
understand the H-O kit helped handling by raising the upper spindle
mount using the f-body spindle.  Their upper b.j (stands for ball joint,
no Lou pun intended  :-),) seemed to be "taller" than necessary, so I
assumed it helped continue the high top spindle pivot position.  I would
not mind a shorter top ball joint, as the H-O type looks weak, but I am
somewhat hesitant about reaming the spindle myself.  If anyone has a
replacement part # I'd appreciate it.

TIA,
Jeff Carter
blue442@webtv.net
.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 19:09:00 EST
From: Moparrp@aol.com
Subject: Re: Did it again

I got a mig welder for christmas, now I can put my tired 66 cutlass back
together.	       	

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 01:08:22 +0100
From: "Trond Pedersen" <trondped@c2i.net>
Subject: SV: Disc brake conversion

 The problem was the lower ball joint which was a
> different diameter where it presses into the arm.  The upper ball
> joints looked identical. The thing that
> always worried me with the H-O kit is what happens if a lower ball
> joint goes bad?
> 

Let mi think
I`ve done this before.
Hmm,   Yupp I gott it.
lover ball joints from a 70-81 camaro/firbird??? nott shure
take those and turn them down to 2,010" THEN they will fitt the lower
A-arms.
numbers...
yupp gott them to. (and these are corekt)
GM#: 9767113.    
Moog#: K6145
NAPA#: 260-1130

I dont know if i would rekomend you to ream the knukle.
it is after al a vitale part of the front end asambly and what if you dont
get it right?
and a b-j breaks in a 0.90g turn???
Just turn down the ball joints.
(still messing whit it but isier to gett right)


Trond Jarle.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 18:21:11 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: engine spec

There was a four barrel delete option for that good gas mileage.  The deuce
came with a numerically low rear axle ratio suitable for highway cruising.
Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: MGeltz31@aol.com <MGeltz31@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, December 30, 1998 8:33 AM
Subject: engine spec


>Question,
>
>I have a 1970 cutlass supreme conv. With buckets and automatic. The vin
>indicates that it was built in California. I am reasonably sure the car is
>original. The problem is that the engine is a 350 2bbl and most of the
>literature says it should have a 4bbl. Can someone confirm or deny if the
350
>2bbl cam in the car?
>
>My first post
>
>milton k geltz
>mgeltz31 @aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 01:16:02 +0100
From: "Trond Pedersen" <trondped@c2i.net>
Subject: SV: Disc brake conversion

Ohh 
sory messing around here:-)
some more numbers for you:
tie-rods: 64-70  :GM#7837733 (78-88 Monte carlo)
tie-rods: 71-72  :GM#12322633 (73-77 Chevelle/malibu)
and i GUES that the ball joints from a 70-81 F-body will work on the upper
side.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 20:09:07 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Re: [Weatherstrip]]

In a message dated 12/30/1998 11:13:11 AM Eastern Standard Time,
restoman@netscape.net writes:

<< It is stiff but will compress in time for a real
 good long lasting seal.Don't want to replace em 
 every year right? >>


Had some on a 66 Chevelle for 5 years....   still had to beat the door shut
because of the vent window to roof pillar weatherstripping!

Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 20:17:09 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: Disc brake conversion

In a message dated 12/30/1998 4:35:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mbloomer@gateway.net writes:

<< Question is has anyone ever done this?  I've hot a 350 with
 manifolds so clearance isn't a problem.
  >>


I still haven't spent the monie on the tubular ones....   thankfully I haven't
finished the  car as I have installed the HO ball joints and B-Body spindles
with 12" rotors.  I haven't found narrower upper controll arms yet, but like
you, I'm a lookin!

Lemme know if ya score on this one!

Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 20:20:28 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: Disc brake conversion

In a message dated 12/30/1998 5:24:37 PM Eastern Standard Time,
BIGJERMES@aol.com writes:

<< if you want to avoid buying the expensive tubular a-arms, your going to
need
 to buy a pair of MOOG offset shafts. >>


I did this and found 2 problems....

	1) you need over 1 1/2 inches between the frame mount and the upper 
inner
shaft.

	2) you have to find a way to limit the suspension drop or you could 
damage
the ball joints.

still working on this one!
Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 20:19:04 -0500
From: "Glenn J. Martin" <martin.glenn@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Exhaust Manifold Bolts

I have just refinished the exhaust manifolds on my 72 350 cutlass
covertible. What kind of bolts were used on them and what kind of finish
did they have? I know that they are 3/8 X 1 1/4" long.  Most new bolts
are cad plated and I doubt if they were on the original.  Also did the
72 350 olds have exhaust manifold locking Tabs?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 20:26:18 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@intrlink.com>
Subject: Re: Disc brake conversion

mbloomer wrote:
> 
> Don't think that I'll have to resort to the spacer or the longer
> bolts as when I did the conversion to my 72 I only had 1/4 to
> 1/2" of shims for the upper arms.  Is the 68 frame that much
> different?  One of the other reasons I was thinking of trying
> to use something like a F body arm is that they are rather
> straight whereas the A body ones drop down due to the
> short spindle.  What this gave me was about a foot and
> a half of droop when I jacked up the car.

I can picture your front springs falling out as you change a tire. :)

>  I was thinking that
> with straighter arms the angle they sit at would be less
> noticable and the snubber would contact sooner to limit
> droop.  Sound reasonable?  

The `73-`77 A bodies (chevelle, cutlass, monte carlo, etc.) are said to
have taller spindles than the `72 and earlier cars.  The chassis on
these cars look similar to the A-bodies, I've often wondered if thoes
upper a-arms would fit and if they'd do the job.  Just a thought, it
might be worth looking into. 

Good luck.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser 
67 Cutlass Surpeme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 20:23:40 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: Disc brake conversion

In a message dated 12/30/1998 6:53:00 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mbloomer@gateway.net writes:

<<  The thing that
 always worried me with the H-O kit is what happens if a lower ball
 joint goes bad? >>


The lower joint was just a standard B-Body/F-Body ball joint machined on the
outside.  Just buy the B/F lower joint, and get a person with a lathe to chuck
it up and turn it.  Or as another person has stated, ream the lower spindle
hole to fit the B/F joint.

Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 20:24:47 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: SV: Disc brake conversion

In a message dated 12/30/1998 7:21:30 PM Eastern Standard Time,
trondped@c2i.net writes:

<< and i GUES that the ball joints from a 70-81 F-body will work on the upper
 side.
  >>


That's what I used
Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 20:29:14 -0500
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Re: Disc brake conversion

List.....

DO NOT REAM OUT THE CONTROL ARMS !!!!!!
take a set of firebird ball joints to a machinist,
have him chuck them in a lathe and cut them down to
the A-body diameter - I did it - no problem...


The General

------------------------------

Date: 30 Dec 98 18:38:19 MST
From: Bruce Suess <restoman@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: [Re: [Weatherstrip]]]

oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:
In a message dated 12/30/1998 11:13:11 AM Eastern Standard Time,
restoman@netscape.net writes:

<< It is stiff but will compress in time for a real
 good long lasting seal.Don't want to replace em 
 every year right? >>


Had some on a 66 Chevelle for 5 years....   still had to beat the door shut
because of the vent window to roof pillar weatherstripping!

Bill K




That vent window is fully adjustable . Not hard at all
when you know what to do.

RESTOMAN

____________________________________________________________________
More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://home.netscape.com/netcenter/mail

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 19:56:49 -0600
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
Subject: Re: new addition to the family

Greg Beaulieu wrote:  (About the '78-'79 Cutlass Salon)
	
	There's one I see around here occasionally in very good shape
and I wouldn't mind having one, but I think they would have either the
V-6 or the Olds 260. They made a 4-4-2 version, and I don't know what
that would have in it for an engine. I think the tranny you have is the
notorious first-generation TH-200. Keep an eye on it, they aren't known
	for long life. But hey, it's free... :)

	I'm not an expert on these Salons, (or anything else, for that
matter!  :-)  but I DO know that the 4-4-2 version had the Olds 260.  I
think the 4-4-2 version was strictly an appearance package.  (HUGE
graphics on the door panels.)  There were a few metallic blue ones at
Lansing for the Centennial.

	Later,

Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
Columbus, MS         1987 442

http://www.442.com/newman.html               1987 442
http://www.442.com/newmantape.html        Centennial Tape Info.
	 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 29 Dec 1998 20:54:22 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: new addition to the family

There was also the Buick Century in this same body style.  I've been
told they came with a Chevy 305 or 307 in a lot of cars--at least the
Buicks.  Pretty strange creature, but it's still cool.
Brian.


Doug Newman wrote:
> 
> Greg Beaulieu wrote:  (About the '78-'79 Cutlass Salon)
> 
>         There's one I see around here occasionally in very good shape
> and I wouldn't mind having one, but I think they would have either the
> V-6 or the Olds 260. They made a 4-4-2 version, and I don't know what
> that would have in it for an engine. I think the tranny you have is the
> notorious first-generation TH-200. Keep an eye on it, they aren't known
>         for long life. But hey, it's free... :)
> 
>         I'm not an expert on these Salons, (or anything else, for that
> matter!  :-)  but I DO know that the 4-4-2 version had the Olds 260.  I
> think the 4-4-2 version was strictly an appearance package.  (HUGE
> graphics on the door panels.)  There were a few metallic blue ones at
> Lansing for the Centennial.
> 
>         Later,
> 
> Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
> Columbus, MS         1987 442
> 
> http://www.442.com/newman.html               1987 442
> http://www.442.com/newmantape.html        Centennial Tape Info.
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 19:54:30 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: [Weatherstrip]

have used many miles of soft seal products and never had a concrete one the
metro stuff was too soft and damaged easily steele wasnt bad...JMHO...KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: Semantana Chris (ONEX) <SemantanaC@tce.com>
To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, December 30, 1998 11:04 AM
Subject: RE: [Weatherstrip]


>
>> << I have had metro stuff turn into dust still in plastic sitting in the
>> trunk.Softseal is best i have seen.{used} Still not as good as OEM.
My.02c
>> >>
>>
>> Damn, Damn, Damn, Damn!   I was hoping to use metro because Soft Seal
>> should
>> really be called concrete seal!  That stuff is as hard as rocks, maybe
>> harder!
>> Please tell me someone else out there has had better luck with metro!
>>
>>
>Didn't someone many months back recommend the Metro Gold version of
>weatherstrip?  I have that post saved ...... somewhere.
>
>Chris Smetana
>Terre Haute, IN
>http://www.abcs.com/chris
>
>1969 W-31
>1969 4-4-2 parts car
>plus others

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1692
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