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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1629


oldsmobile-digest      Friday, November 27 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1629



Re: Starfire choke
Re: Starfire choke
Re: car wont turn off
15x8 steel rims
Re: 455 Buildup
L77 455, ASAP
Re: 15x8 steel rims
Re: 15x8 steel rims
Re: 15x8 steel rims
72 442 Convertible Seat Skins 4sale
UNBOUNCE: Re: car wont turn off
UNBOUNCE: '62 Starfire Convert FS
Re: Starfire choke
Re: Starfire choke
AC system
Re: 71 442 questions
Re: 71 442 questions
Re: painting grill
spread square huh?
Hurst Olds - 442
RE: cyl head porting
Re: spread square huh?
fast idle
junkyard prices
Re: New Member
Re: junkyard prices
Re: fast idle
Re: Cam Question Again
Re: Starfire choke
Re: 1947 Olds Custom Cruiser: Anyone have one?
Re: 455 Buildup
Auctioneer
66 olds model!!!
Re: Hurst Olds - 442
1971 442 F/S
Re: 71 442 questions
Re: 455 Buildup
Re: 455 Buildup
Re: junkyard prices
Re: spread square huh?
Re: fast idle
Re: 493 Mondello Olds ?
86 Cutlass Cierra Fuel pump
RE: 86 Cutlass Cierra Fuel pump
Title search?  A little assistance please.
Re: Starfire choke
Re: 455 Buildup
Flaps for Inner Fender Wells
68 442 model kit
Re: DRL's
Re: W-27
Re: 68 442 model kit
Re: fast idle

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 19:41:54 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: Starfire choke

.  So my question is, would you just attach a hand choke or is there
>something I'm missing about this carb?  It's been starting very well, a
>couple of pumps and it fires right up.
>
>
Edelbrock carbs come in manual and electric choke varieties so you
must have the manual one. You can either hook up a manual cable 
or get the Electric choke adaptor.these set-ups cost about $50.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 22:06:12 -0800
From: Ted Griffin <griffint@govst.edu>
Subject: Re: Starfire choke

Thomas P. Smith wrote:

>         I assume the Edelbrock carb was actually installed.  When new,
>
> Edelbrock carbs usually have an Edelbrock name tag on them.

Yes, a very nice Edelbrock tag, I might add.

> One is a manual choke, the other is an electric choke assembly.  The
> manual
> choke models can be converted to electric choke, if desired.
>         Assuming the carb is complete, except for the cable, that
> should be
> correct.

This must be a record for getting a technical question answered and on
this day I am especially thankful.  My next question is, why did the PO
drive it this way for the time that he did?  Is this carb so wonderful
that it doesn't need to be choked?  He said he drove it quite a while
after he replaced the carb.

Thanks so much for your reply, and also to Bob!  I can send a pic if
anyone is interested.  It's a beautiful car!  If I read correctly what
you are saying, the edelbrock carb should prove to be a reliable
addition.  I wish they'd have left the original in the trunk.  It's nice
to have all the numbers match since everything else on the car is
original.

Griff - in Crete Illinois

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 22:45:31 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: car wont turn off

yellow goes to the R terminal purple goes to the S and the battery cable
goes to the big guy in the middle...KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: DrkSole96@aol.com <DrkSole96@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, November 26, 1998 12:00 AM
Subject: Re: car wont turn off


>Well, I got the gen light to turn off, turns out that I had accidentally
>crushed the yellow wire on the starter behind the large one in the middle.
>After about an hour of dicking around to get the wire's hooked back up, I
got
>in the car, the gen light wasn't constantly on, but now the starter won't
>turn, no clicks or anything.  I'm about ready to just pay to have it towed
to
>a mechanic, it's really pissing me off.  Just to double check, which
terminal
>does the yellow wire connect to?
>Thanks
>:p
>
>DrkSole96
>73 Cutlass supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 22:16:55 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: 15x8 steel rims

I am looking to get a cheap set of 15x8 steel rims.  They just have to be
plain rims (like the ones that came on the '81 Deltas for use with hubcaps).
The bolt pattern is 4 3/4.  I would like to get a used set so am wondering
which cars would come with some. Pickup trucks?  Any other?  They do have to
be 8 inch wide, though.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 00:24:26 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 Buildup

In a message dated 11/26/98 1:16:54 PM Eastern Standard Time,
mbloomer@gateway.net writes:

<<  Someone mentioned headers..this is my pet peeve...I hate them.
 People
 >>ALWAYS have problems with leaks, rust, incorrect fit, impossible to get to
 >>plugs, etc. Also, I asked on 2 different lists, if anyone had gone from
 >true
 >>dual exhaust to headers, and had a time slip from the track to prove it
 was
 >>faster with headers. Surprise, no one did.  >>
well, i have had my headers for about a year now on my '78 cutlass and i still
like them.  they make a few things a little tough to get to, but its not too
bad.  the only things that are hard to get to would be the starter, and the
oil filter.  no big woopty do.  you mentioned it would be hard to change the
plugs with headers also, but thats only with a chevy, not an olds engine.  i
went from manifolds and 2" duals to headers and 2 1/2" duals and i definately
noticed improvement.  engine winds up much quicker.  engine is a '72 350
putting out 300-315hp and 330 or so ft. lbs torque.  i think headers are great
when you paint them with header paint.  the sound they make really turns
heads.
jeremy
BIGJERMES@aol.com	 	 	 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 22:30:49 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: L77 455, ASAP

Forgive me if I screwed something up.  What was the '76 455 motor
designated.  It came from a '76 Delta 88 Royal.  Is it the L77 or
W-something or what.  I need to know ASAP.  Thanks.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 26 Nov 1998 23:00:17 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: 15x8 steel rims

At 10:16 PM 11/26/98 -0700, you wrote:
>I am looking to get a cheap set of 15x8 steel rims.  They just have to be
>plain rims (like the ones that came on the '81 Deltas for use with hubcaps).
>The bolt pattern is 4 3/4.  I would like to get a used set so am wondering
>which cars would come with some. Pickup trucks?  Any other?  They do have to
>be 8 inch wide, though.
> 
I think GM full size wagons came with these

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 01:25:24 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 15x8 steel rims

>I am looking to get a cheap set of 15x8 steel rims.  They just have to be
>plain rims (like the ones that came on the '81 Deltas for use with
hubcaps).
>The bolt pattern is 4 3/4.  I would like to get a used set so am wondering
>which cars would come with some. Pickup trucks?  Any other?  They do have
to
>be 8 inch wide, though.
>
Trying to find 15x8's will be fairly difficult.  If I remember correctly all
the
high-po cars and even the trucks only came with 15x7's.  That seems
to be where GM cut off their width's.  You can run up to 275's on a 7"
rim and I have even run 295's with no problem even though your not
supposed to.  If you absolutely have to have 8" rims you might have to
have a set modified.  You can have the centers swapped out or have
any rim widened but it won't necessarilly be cheap.  Could be wrong
though.  At least you don't have a 5" bolt circle :)

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 00:51:49 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 15x8 steel rims

15 x 7s will do.  I have these on the front (also 255/60/15) tires.  The
only problem is I change the rear-end so my bolt pattern is bigger.  The
only wheels I had in the bigger bolt were 6.5s or 6.  7 inch ones will do
fine if I find them.  It would look much better if the back was wider.  I
have Cragar SS 15x10s for the back, but no Cragars for the front (can't
afford new).  So, I figure use stock wheels but have them painted as well
until I find a set of Cragars for the front.  There I want 15x8s or maybe
even 15x7s.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 02:39:52 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: 72 442 Convertible Seat Skins 4sale

I have a USED set of 1972 442 convertible seat skins for sale. The color is
a light saddle brown color. THe seat skins are NOT TORN. They are 2 front
bucket seat skins. The top parts ARE FADED. The bottom parts ARE NOT FADED.
The top's are begin to show signs of the stiching coming slightly apart,
but they are still together. I am changing the color of my interior so I
need to sell these. These would be perfect for someone who needs new seat
skins because the ones the have are torn or missing. This IS NOT show
quality skins, just a cost effective replacement to buying new skins, when
they are not desired. I am looking to sell both for $75.00....... 

E-Mail PRIVATELY
Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 06:16:34 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Re: car wont turn off

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: car wont turn off

yellow goes to the R terminal purple goes to the S and the battery cable
goes to the big guy in the middle...KK

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 06:18:06 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '62 Starfire Convert FS

Reply to miglenda@bc.sympatico.ca if interested.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	michael r m <miglenda@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: Re:For Sale 1962 Star Fire Convertible

Would like to sell our  1962 Star Fire Convertible. Purchased [ordered]
new as second vehicle. Non smoker, always garaged, rust free, in genuine
excellent condition  inside & out. Always had regular service. Factory
tac, chrome air cleaner &  rocker covers. 10.1 compression. Used during
summer only, with the odd exception, over the last 36 years. Only time
rear seat has been used, was for our three children's graduation,
including their weddings. Has had "collector plates" on it for over 10
yrs. Is only licensed for six months of the year.
Honduras Maroon/white convertible top. Has 90000 miles which 80% have
been distances of 100-250 miles. That is only... 90000 miles .~  36 yrs
= 2500 mi. per year.  They claim that 7149 Star Fire Convertibles were
built.
As they say... We want to sell the car...but I am not desperate, not
Santa Claus, nor senile! Would like to sell it for what it is worth???
Genuine interest please e- mail...... miglenda@bc.sympatico.ca    Car is
located in Vancouver B.C.  Can e-mail photos.
        [ P.S.]    check for any liens by 'midas muffler' for they have
been replacing the dual exhaust about every four years for the past 36
yrs. They will likely help subsidize the sale just so they do not see it
on their hoist any more!






.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 05:32:05 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Starfire choke

In a message dated 98-11-26 21:50:24 EST, you write:

<<  The previous owner told me that he had problems with the carb
 after the car was taken out of storage for 5 years, so his local Olds
 expert recommended he replace it with an Edelbrock carb, around 2,000
 miles ago.  The carb does look like it's brand new and  the 394 runs
 like a champ, except tonight, coming home after showing it off to the
 "family",  things were a bit rough on the 5 mile trip home. (The
 temperature had dropped down into the 40's) >>

Hi Griff!

Congratulations on your new addition to the family!

(Brief pause while Karl runs out to the car at 4am to get "The Standard
Catalogue of Oldsmobile", and another beer.)

1963 Starfire.... the SCoO states that a Rochester 4GC was on the Super 88,
and that the Starfire had all S 88 features plus diiferent mouldings, dual
exhaust....

So, assuming it is the 10.25:1 compression 394cid that made 330hp (like the
Super 88), the original carb should have been a 4GC.

Now...the 4GC is not a spread-bore carb like the QuadraJet.

This is important because Edelbrock makes aftermarket intakes that are
patterned after the Carter (square-bore??) and the Quadrajet (spread-bore).

So, it would be helpful to know what model of Edelbrock carburetor it is.

Unfortunately....have little Edelbrock info to give you.

Check out their offerings at www.Edelbrock.com.
Actually, there might be someone at Edelbrock who can be of help.

Oh, wait, they use that annoying Bulletin-Board type thing to post Q&A
questions....
Well, you can try it......

Good luck!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 05:58:25 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Starfire choke

(Guess Karl need to read all posts before he replies.)

>One is a manual choke, the other is an electric choke assembly.  The
> manual choke models can be converted to electric choke, if desired.
> Assuming the carb is complete, except for the cable, that should 
> be correct.
 
<< This must be a record for getting a technical question answered and on
 this day I am especially thankful.  My next question is, why did the PO
 drive it this way for the time that he did?  Is this carb so wonderful
 that it doesn't need to be choked?  He said he drove it quite a while
 after he replaced the carb. >>
 
This is not particularly unusual as sometimes the choke needs slight choke
adjustment for colder weather to allow for the oxygenated gasoline (plus other
additives) that is in the pumps during cold weather. However...

<<   the 394 runs like a champ, except tonight, coming home 
 after showing it off to the"family",  things were a bit rough on
 the 5 mile trip home. >>

This does not sound like a choke problem. If your Olds starts fine in cold
weather (without dying or needing a little throttle) then this is unlikely a
choke problem. The choke plate should be fully open at normal operating
temperatures.

So, please go into any details that you can about how things were a bit rough.

<< Thanks so much for your reply, and also to Bob!  I can send a pic if
 anyone is interested.  It's a beautiful car! >>

Uh....please do NOT attach image files to Email addressed to
Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca! The server is not equipped for that and the image
is bounced everywhere as ASCII garbage. Please send it directly to individuals
or post it on someone's home page.

<< If I read correctly what you are saying, the edelbrock carb should prove to
be a reliable addition.  I wish they'd have left the original in the trunk. 
 Griff - in Crete Illinois >>

Well, no #s on the carb would match your car, but there is a lot to be said
for having everything "correct" for the model year.

Good Luck!

Karl - in Chicago, IL

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 07:43:48 -0500
From: Bob Dale <bctad5@toolcity.net>
Subject: AC system

Hello All,
  Hope everyone survived Turkeyday. I have a complete AC system out of a
69 Cutlass sans the compresser. VG condition. Considering  selling.
Would anyone be willing to offer an estimate of fair market value?

B.D.  69 Cutlass S 455/400

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 07:37:15 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: 71 442 questions

Scott

        That's all it is. A decent Cutlass "S". NOT a 442.

Jim Chermack

At 08:51 PM 11/26/98 , you wrote:
>            I talked with a guy selling a 71 442 for under $2000. What he said
>about the car doesn't match up with what is posted at www.442.com. From a
>phone conversation, the owner says the car has a 350 cid engine, and " Q N "
>option 240 h.p. motor. He also said that the vin does not start with "344" .
>He said it was a Cutlass " S" with the 442 option. Well, seems to me he
>belives it is a 442, has all the emblems,buckets, dual gate shifter and the
>body stripes. No O.I.A. hood.. So it seems that this car isn't a real 442.
>Is there any other way that this could be a 442. Was a 350 an engine option (
>FAQ says no)? could the dash pad have been changed?................any
>thoughts are welcome..........This might at least be a decent " S"
>car....................SCOTT

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 08:24:39 -0500
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: 71 442 questions

OLDS44272@aol.com wrote:
> 
>             I talked with a guy selling a 71 442 for under $2000. What he 
said
> about the car doesn't match up with what is posted at www.442.com. From a
> phone conversation, the owner says the car has a 350 cid engine, and " Q N "
> option 240 h.p. motor. He also said that the vin does not start with "344" .
> He said it was a Cutlass " S" with the 442 option. Well, seems to me he
> belives it is a 442, has all the emblems,buckets, dual gate shifter and the
> body stripes. No O.I.A. hood.. So it seems that this car isn't a real 442.
> Is there any other way that this could be a 442. Was a 350 an engine option (
> FAQ says no)? could the dash pad have been changed?................any
> thoughts are welcome..........This might at least be a decent " S"
> car....................SCOTT

This COULD be a '72 model, in which case this would make sense.  Believe
it or not, I have found 3 different owners of '70-'72 Cutlass/442s that
claimed it was a different year model than it really was.
- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
OCA# 30442

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 09:49:08 EST
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: painting grill

In a message dated 11/26/98 10:36:49 PM Eastern Standard Time,
comid@jellico.com writes:

<< 
 My '75 Salon has plastic grills with some sort of chromish coating. I guess
 you could call it chrome plated plastic. I want to black it out. Before I
 get flamed, I've made up my mind, it's my car and that's the look I want . .
 . NYAA!
 Anyway, does anyone know what it takes to paint over this stuff? Can the
 chrome be removed? I know acids corrode ionic material (i.e., metals), but
 most plastics are unaffected by acids. Can parts like this be acid dipped to
 remove the chrome?
 I've roughed up the chrome a bit with coarse sandpaper with the hopes that
 paint will stick to it like it is. What do you think?
  >>
    Take the grilles off the car first, but put in a place where you can spray
them with oven cleaner, let that soak for a while and spray them again. Let
them stand for a few hours and wash them off with a hose, by now all the
chrome may be off, if not spray them again. This should do and now you can
paint them. I've done this before and its works great.


Everett   OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 11:12:49 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: spread square huh?

Umm....whazza spread bore mean? v.s. square bore? Aren't they all 4 round
holes thru the carb? Edjekate me...

drc


>My guess is you have the AFB style carb as it is a square
>bore carb (the Q-Jet style is a spread bore) and I believe a 4 bbl '63
>intake manifold is designed for square bore carbs.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 08:34:44 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Hurst Olds - 442

Does anyone have information on how many Hurst Olds and 442 were made 
between 84 - 87.  I am thinking about buying one as a driver while 
working on my 71 and 72 Cutlass's. Thanks



______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 08:42:00 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: cyl head porting

I would like to see those #'s if you do not mind.  I always heard that a 
Dodge engine flowed bad also.  I know the ports on the heads are small.


>That is the least flow rate of all the BB heads on all the mfg. ( I 
have thenumbers if anyone wants them). So, I agree that head porting is 
crutial on a BB olds


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 08:44:15 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: spread square huh?

At 11:12 AM 11/27/98 -0500, you wrote:
>Umm....whazza spread bore mean? v.s. square bore? Aren't they all 4 round
>holes thru the carb? Edjekate me...
>

A square bore carb has primaries and seconbaries that are the same \
(or almost the same) diameter, and the mounting looks sqaure.
Most holley's and Edelbrock's


A spreadbore carb has larger secondaries than primaries, and the mouting 
pad spreads out in the rear.
Rochesters and Thermoquads

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 12:17:46 -0200
From: BRIAN SHANKLE <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: fast idle

Here We Go Again! :-)

I have almost successfully changed the carb in my 307 Y powered 86
Cutlass Supreme.  I got a 52k mile carb from a Monte Carlo, which works
fine except for one thing.  I can't get the idle to go down, and
although I don't have a tachometer, I am willing to guess it to be
around 2500-3000 RPM.  So far I have gotten the choke wired to the red
wire on the distributor, adjusted the kickdown cable to reach like it
should, and made arrangements for the accelerator cable to reach as
well.  There is no availible backwards travel for the throttle plate
arms, and upon shining a light inside the carb everything seemed to be
fine (throttle plates in the bottom not open).  Unplugging the TPS
seemed to help a little, but not much.  I know I can't leave it like
that.  Also, the choke plate remains somewhat open while the car is
running and if I push it down by hand the idle goes down but it runs
really rough and the black smoke comes forth.  This also happened before
I even wired up the electric choke.  What in the world is wrong with my
car?  It is also important to note that none of the adjustments have
been touched, since they are all sealed.  I seem to remember with one of
my questions someone posted that one of the sensors (?) were different
between the Chevy and Olds carbs, but they were swappable.  Maybe this
is it, but I can't remember for the life of me which one it was.
thanks in advance
Brian.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 10:45:49 -0800
From: "Steve Elijah" <selijah@eznet.com>
Subject: junkyard prices

this from your 72 Vista Cruiser (350) novice:

The low class local junkman has a near twin for my car deep in the rusty end
of the yard.  He mentioned $150 to pull the rear end and $45 for the
driveshaft from his junker.

I have a harmonic cruising vibration/hum. Looking at my driveshaft it seems
a bit banged up and even dented. (apparently there is some sort of
housing/covering for these?).  I am thinking about buying that rear end from
brake drum to brake drum and the driveshaft, and asking for the upper and
lower mounting arms too.  My question then: with this stuff in my garage
could I strip it all and clean it up, paint it or whatever, get new mounting
bushings, u-joints, axle bearings, and such, and generally prepare it for
replacement into my car? My tool and knowledge limit ends at about where I
can probably rebuild the rear brakes. I can do that grunt rust removal type
stuff and take if to the mechanic for the installation or other rebuilding
that may be needed.

Is this be an unreasonable winter project for a semi novice? What would be a
reasonable price for all those parts I want from the junker?  Many more
questions to come!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 01:40:56 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: New Member

Mark G. Morse wrote:
> 
> Doug Pack wrote:
> >
> > Hey yall. My name is Doug Pack. I'm 15 years old and I'm in love
> > with the great muscle machines of the '70's - particularly the
> > Olds 442 and the Chevy Nova. 

> Welcome...and it sure is good to know that at least one fifteen year
> old is NOT into Hondas but REAL cars.

The joy will be short lived if this is the one I am thinking about as he
didn't care for a few remarks made about Novas, said goodbye and left
the list.  Seems he thought some people were a bit, uh, "unkind" towards
other makes.  He took a bit of offense and said adios.  Ah to return to
age 15 and have to go through the pains of growing up.  No thank you. 
If their is ever a time machine that will revert me backwards I think I
will stop at about 22.  That was a pretty good time for me.  No kids, no
spouse, no house payment and only ONE car to worry about.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 14:08:47 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: junkyard prices

In a message dated 98-11-27 13:49:50 EST, you write:

<<  My question then: with this stuff in my garage
 could I strip it all and clean it up, paint it or whatever, get new mounting
 bushings, u-joints, axle bearings, and such, and generally prepare it for
 replacement into my car? My tool and knowledge limit ends at about where I
 can probably rebuild the rear brakes. I can do that grunt rust removal type
 stuff and take if to the mechanic for the installation or other rebuilding
 that may be needed.
  Is this be an unreasonable winter project for a semi novice? What would be a
 reasonable price for all those parts I want from the junker?  Many more
 questions to come! >>

This is essentially what Karl is now doing with a rear axle.
Considered to be $150 for the axle with $50 labor to be cheap.
A yarde proprietor may balk at the attaching arm part as the easiest way to
pull the end is to torch through all the attaching arms.
But it is always worthwile to have spares!

Now, here is what Karl is doing with the axle (rear end, whatever...);
As much brake work was done lately, will probably keep old backing plates for
use with new (old) axle. So am removing remnants of the attaching arms and
mebbe backing plates. Once the sundries are off, it is off to my mechanics to
have them check the axle. If a clean bill of health then media blasting and
powder coating!
Want this one to last!

As far as the do it yourself stuff. Karl does not trust himself where proper
tools do a better job (lift, impact wrenches, slide hammers......).

If not a clean bill of health... well, we'll see about that.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 14:26:15 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: fast idle

BRIAN SHANKLE wrote:

> Here We Go Again! :-)
> So far I have gotten the choke wired to the red
> wire on the distributor,

        Ideally, an electric choke should be wired in such a way as to
operate only when the engine is running.  Some manufacturers used an oil
pressure switch or a special choke relay that used voltage from the
alternator as its switching signal, as has been noted by others in previous
posts.  At a minimum, however, use a switched 12 volt source (a source that
turns off when you turn the key off) that will handle the current.  When I
checked the current draw of my electric choke with a Fluke 77 multimeter (an
professional industrial grade multimeter) it pulled less than 2 amps
initially, dropping to .5 amps when fully open, and took 4 minutes to open
completely.  Keep in mind, if this is all you do the choke will open when
the key is on, even if the engine is not running.  I don't have HEI, so I
don't know what kind of voltage the red wire carries, but it sounds like you
need a different source.

> Also, the choke plate remains somewhat open while the car is
> running and if I push it down by hand the idle goes down but it runs
> really rough and the black smoke comes forth.

        The plate will open slightly due to the action of the choke pull
off.  By "push(ing) it down," I assume you mean toward a closed position.
If so, what you are experiencing is normal.  You are essentially starving
the car for air, thus, the lower speed and black smoke from an overly rich
mixture.

        At any rate, the fast idle speed is controlled by a stepped cam that
moves with the choke mechanism.  The more closed the choke, the faster the
idle.  When the choke is fully, or nearly fully, open, you have your low
idle speed.  Fix the choke, and I think you'll fix the idle problem.
- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 13:48:16 -0600
From: Paul and Heather Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: Re: Cam Question Again

Ran a similar grind(almost exact) in an early Olds 400.  Had strong power
from 1800 to 4800 rpm.  Can't comment on fuel economy as my foot was in it
all the time.  Also, I had manual everything, however it idled at around
800 no sweat,  slight rumble but not car shaking by any means.  I had the
stock dual plane manifold, Holley 750 w/vac secondaries and a three angle
valve job.  Otherwise, the engine was stock.  I had a wide ratio Muncie and
3:55 posi gears out back.  You'll enjoy the cam.  Good luck.


Paul Brillhart


At 06:54 PM 11/26/98 -0700, you wrote:
>I think that some of you will be pleased that I finally decided on the cam.
>It is the Lunati grind 214/224 duration @.050, .473/.496 lift.  I am just
>wondering if ANYONE is running this cam in a 455.  I want to know about
>vacuum/powerband bottom/top end power, fuel economy, idle characteristics,
>and valvetrain compatibility.  I know that there is someone there running
>this cam, so please talk to me.  Thanks.
>
>Igor Todorovic
>
>1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 14:44:02 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Starfire choke

KarlAune@aol.com wrote:

> This does not sound like a choke problem. If your Olds starts fine in cold
> weather (without dying or needing a little throttle) then this is unlikely a
> choke problem. The choke plate should be fully open at normal operating
> temperatures.
>
> So, please go into any details that you can about how things were a bit 
rough.

        Karl's got a good point.  The only way the choke could be a problem 
after
the car reaches operating temp is if the choke is too far closed, when the 
engine
now needs it open.  If I choke my engine after it is up to temp, it'll run bad,
too.  Since you have no cable attached, and thus no control over choke 
position,
it may have slipped into a partially closed position.  This would happen to me
periodically with my Holley (also manual choke) before I installed a cable.  I
would set it open by hand, but with engine vibration, etc., it would slip 
almost
closed.

> << If I read correctly what you are saying, the edelbrock carb should prove 
to
> be a reliable addition.

        Well, it's based on a solid carb (Carter AFB), but I don't have one, 
so I
can't say from experience.

>  Griff - in Crete Illinois

        Tom - from Rockford, Illinois (currently located in Washington D.C.)

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 15:02:37 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: 1947 Olds Custom Cruiser: Anyone have one?

Ken,
    It's funny I would be reading this now.  I just came back from a friends
house.  His name is Ed Selby.  He is a restorer of all makes of cars but
prefers prefers pre-WWII and post-WWII Oldsmobiles(teens, 20's, 30's, 40's).
At least two of his restorations were at the Olds 100th anniversary.  As a
matter of fact his Olds delivery truck was seen on My Classic Car.  Dennis
Gage(host of MCC) walked around his truck as a lead in to the story about
the Barracuda.  Ed is currently working on 4 projects, one of which was a
40's Olds convertible with the straight 8.  At first I thought it was the
Buick Fireball 8 but the front grill said Oldsmobile.  If you would like I
can get his phone number or address for you.

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
>
>Happy Thanksgiving
>Just came back from a yard visit. My wife was not impressed.
>Found a 1947 Custom Cruiser in pretty good condition. Engine
>Runs ... needs body and interior work. He is asking $1500
>
>1. How many of these were made ....
>2. Are there parts available ... body, upholstry, engine, chrome
>3. What is the value of these things in # 2 condition
>
>It is one heck of a big car ... where can I find specs etc on internet.
>Thanks
>
>Ken Swick
>swickka@pa.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 15:14:40 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: 455 Buildup

Igor,
    I have come to the same conclusion about the cam.  After reading the
Mondello manual and your trials and tribulations I am going with a 214/224
duration @.050, .472/.496 lift.  I plan on maintaining everything else stock
especially comp. ratio (8-8.5 for 87 octane!) except for an EGR block off
plate.  My tranny seems solid the exhaust can wait.  I also want to grind
off the air bumps(Mondello refers to these as the EGR bumps) on the exhaust
side but that is about it.  The valve springs will be checked and the
necessity of an overbore will be determined when I remove the engine.  I
would love a posi but don't fell like fooling with that for a long time if
ever.  Have I left anything out?

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
>
>There is nothing special about my 455 at ALL.  It is a .030 over, 9.6 CR.
>'76 block.  All I did was put the higher compression pistons, true DBL..
>Roller timing set, a cam too small (Lunati grind, 204/214 duration @.050,
>.448/.472 lift).  Other mods include ported & polished exhaust side of the
J
>heads + increase valve opening.  Untouched intake.  I have a '70 442 carb
>and intake.  It has stock exhaust manifolds, dual 2.5" exhaust, balancer
>tube, Dynomax Super Turbo mufflers with 2.25 tailpipes.  The trans. is
TH400
>with 12-inch converter and Hurst shift kit.  The car has 3.23 posi 8.5 10
>bolt and BFGoodrich 255/60/15 tires.  I find that the 4600 rpm I did today
>is all I should/could with this cam.  Usually pulls good to 4000, but not
>much after that.  I would like to get the one-size-up cam (214/224
duration,
>.472/.496 lift).  However, now I got hood-induction and will get K&N filter
>(probably from my girlfriend) so we will see.  All I can say is that the
>difference between an open air-cleaner and stock unit is noticeable.  Igor.

>>   Sey Igor,
>>    What`s the rundown on your 455 that makes it work so well ? I`ve
>>been trying different shift points on mine from 4800 to 5300 and suspect
>>I may be wastin time by goin to 5300.
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 15:32:29 -0500
From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: Auctioneer

This is automotive but not necessarily Olds.  I'm acquainted with a
family who are trying to dispose of the contents of a auto wrecking yard
on southern Ontario.  Their 85 yr old owner father passed away
recently.  The yard has components dating back to the 20's.  Also stored
there was a 65 Mustang w/ 20,000 miles and a 55 Caddy w/ less than
30,000 miles both originally bought by the family.  Most of the parts
are 40's-80's.  The family is interested in connecting with an auto
auction firm to dispose of all parts.....but not the previously
mentioned cars.  They are not interesed in selling parts to
individuals.  Any leads on an auction firm.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 14:31:55 +0000
From: f85@juno.com (Joe R Brockman)
Subject: 66 olds model!!!

Hey guys, I just got back from the model store and they had about 6 1966
olds 442 W-30 models.  The kit shows a red 66 on the front.  Kit is 1:25
and only cost me $11.70.  Well just thought I'd share.

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 17:03:23 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hurst Olds - 442

In a message dated 11/27/98 11:37:50 AM Eastern Standard Time,
jasonshreve@hotmail.com writes:

<< Does anyone have information on how many Hurst Olds and 442 were made 
 between 84 - 87.  I am thinking about buying one as a driver while 
 working on my 71 and 72 Cutlass's. Thanks
  >>
ok, i take it you havent been checking up on these cars lately? :-)  well, i
think the only years for the hurst cars of the '80s would be '83-'84.  there
was a '79, i believe also.  you want one as a daily driver?  holy cow batman.
if you find one in restorable condition, (not taken care of) they usually run
about $5,000 or so.  but if you want a nice one, expect something more like
$8-9,000.  show condition cars might be around $12,000+.  if you dont really
care about the car, i wouldn't try to find a 442 or hurst, youll worry about
it too much.  just get a cutlass with alot of options.  good luck on your
choices,
jeremy
BIGJERMES@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 17:13:54 -0500
From: Joe & Toni Artwell <tjf26@gte.net>
Subject: 1971 442 F/S

$8,700.00, Email direct for details.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 17:15:51 -0500
From: Joe & Toni Artwell <tjf26@gte.net>
Subject: Re: 71 442 questions

OLDS44272@aol.com wrote:
> 
>             I talked with a guy selling a 71 442 for under $2000. What he 
said about the car doesn't match up with what is posted at 442.com. 

Is he sure it isn't a 72?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 15:24:33 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 455 Buildup

Do consider exhaust though.  If you have stock exhaust, it will chock that
cam.  My uncle had the '76 Delta 88 before me (long before.  He actually
sold it and than later I came across it).  He said that once on the highway,
he nailed a bump and ripped the exhaust off in front of the catalytic
converter.  Drive home was 120 miles.  He said it flew.  Twice the power.
100 mph on cruise.  Exhaust is the first I would do.  If nothing, at least
remove the Catalytic converter and get a Performance muffler.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 15:54:46 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: 455 Buildup

Jim or Igor, could you guys hurry and get the cam installed so you can tell us
what it runs like :)

I need to get one ordered soon for my engine and I haven't quite decided on
what grind.  I made a little chart of different grinds I have heard discussed
on the list (abbreviated so it won't wrap).

            Int./Exh.	Int./Exh.       1/4	pulls
Make        Dur. @ .050	Lift in inches  time	to      Who has
- ----------- ----------- --------------- ------- ------- 
-----------------------
SpeedPro    272/280  	.448"/.472"             4600    Igor has
Lunati 	    214/224     .473"/.496"                     I.T. buying, 
P.B. liked
Crane 2pat  	        .496"/.512"                     Robert Schinkel has
Cam#1       214/224     .472"/.494"                     I.T. consid. B.B. liked
lift > 0.50" Caution below here there be stock springs broken!
Dave Smith  226/232     .500"/.510"     12.5@105 5400   David Brodie 3.5K# car
CompCams292 244/244     .518"/.518"	13.242          Donny Arnold ?
Mon. JM4-5  238/246     .542"/.558"                     Just info
Dave Smith  244/254     .560"/.545"     11.4@119 5800   David Brodie, idle 500

If any of this is totally bogus then please let me know.  I would like to get
more quantitative data on this subject like drive ratios, vehicle weights, idle
speeds and idle vacuum but I guess I just have to buy one and hope for the
best.  Good luck Igor and Jim and please let me (and the list) know how it
comes out.

Jim & Sharon Brady wrote:
> 
> Igor,
>     I have come to the same conclusion about the cam.  After reading the
> Mondello manual and your trials and tribulations I am going with a 214/224
> duration @.050, .472/.496 lift.  <snip>

- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 17:01:22 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: junkyard prices

This is actually the best way to do it.  Everything is easily accessible
since
its out of the car and your in no rush to get it back together.  If the
driveshaft is dented up then that's probably where the vibration is and
should be what you try first.  Changing the U joints can be done with a
hammer and a vise but if you can't get em out you may have to take it
to a shop with a press to do it for you.  Should only charge you 20 bucks
at the most since it's already out of the car.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

> My question then: with this stuff in my garage
>could I strip it all and clean it up, paint it or whatever, get new
mounting
>bushings, u-joints, axle bearings, and such, and generally prepare it for
>replacement into my car? My tool and knowledge limit ends at about where I
>can probably rebuild the rear brakes. I can do that grunt rust removal type
>stuff and take if to the mechanic for the installation or other rebuilding
>that may be needed.
>
>Is this be an unreasonable winter project for a semi novice? What would be
a
>reasonable price for all those parts I want from the junker?  Many more
>questions to come!
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 18:34:07 -0500
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Re: spread square huh?

I'm sure you're going to get a lot of responses to this question Dave.
Because the Rochester Quadrajet is pretty much a staple in the Olds
horsepower stable. The secondarys are larger than the primarys, requiring a
larger opening at the rear of the intake manifold. Hence the term "spread
bore". Square bore means exactly that...the primary and secondarys are the
same diameter and will mount onto a square opening in the intake. 
	I intended to replace my Rochester with an Edelbrock spreadbore, 
however
there was about a $300.00 difference in the price. So I had to opt for the
square bore carburator and use an adapter plate (Edelbrock manufactured). I
only needed 750 CFM so it didn't matter to me.
I hope this was helpful.		Sincerely,
				R. Kevin Noon
				66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
				85 Delta 88 Royale Brougham 

- ----------
> From: Dave Cullen <david.cullen@snet.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: spread square huh?
> Date: Friday, November 27, 1998 11:12 AM
> 
> Umm....whazza spread bore mean? v.s. square bore? Aren't they all 4 round
> holes thru the carb? Edjekate me...
> 
> drc
> 
> 
> >My guess is you have the AFB style carb as it is a square
> >bore carb (the Q-Jet style is a spread bore) and I believe a 4 bbl '63
> >intake manifold is designed for square bore carbs.
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 18:45:24 -0200
From: BRIAN SHANKLE <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: fast idle

I don't know what in the world happened, but now the car is running
better than ever.  I took the chance and drove the car with the fast
idle and once I gave the car the chance to reach full temperature, the
idle went down.  Previously I was only getting 9-11 mpg, and now I am
getting almost 17 mpg on the highway.  Not the best, but I will
certainly take it over what it was before, and that pesky "check engine"
light didn't come on once in a 76 mile drive at 70-80 mph.  I am
certainly happy with the results of my work.  Now that that fiasco is
over, I can work on other things, like adjusting the hood stops,
driver's window, and the front bumper.  Can't wait until spring so I can
have it painted!
Thanks,
Brian.

Thomas P. Smith wrote:
> 
> BRIAN SHANKLE wrote:
> 
> > Here We Go Again! :-)
> > So far I have gotten the choke wired to the red
> > wire on the distributor,
> 
>         Ideally, an electric choke should be wired in such a way as to
> operate only when the engine is running.  Some manufacturers used an oil
> pressure switch or a special choke relay that used voltage from the
> alternator as its switching signal, as has been noted by others in previous
> posts.  At a minimum, however, use a switched 12 volt source (a source that
> turns off when you turn the key off) that will handle the current.  When I
> checked the current draw of my electric choke with a Fluke 77 multimeter (an
> professional industrial grade multimeter) it pulled less than 2 amps
> initially, dropping to .5 amps when fully open, and took 4 minutes to open
> completely.  Keep in mind, if this is all you do the choke will open when
> the key is on, even if the engine is not running.  I don't have HEI, so I
> don't know what kind of voltage the red wire carries, but it sounds like you
> need a different source.
> 
> > Also, the choke plate remains somewhat open while the car is
> > running and if I push it down by hand the idle goes down but it runs
> > really rough and the black smoke comes forth.
> 
>         The plate will open slightly due to the action of the choke pull
> off.  By "push(ing) it down," I assume you mean toward a closed position.
> If so, what you are experiencing is normal.  You are essentially starving
> the car for air, thus, the lower speed and black smoke from an overly rich
> mixture.
> 
>         At any rate, the fast idle speed is controlled by a stepped cam that
> moves with the choke mechanism.  The more closed the choke, the faster the
> idle.  When the choke is fully, or nearly fully, open, you have your low
> idle speed.  Fix the choke, and I think you'll fix the idle problem.
> --
> Thomas P. Smith
> 1971 Cutlass S 350
> smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 17:55:03 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Re: 493 Mondello Olds ?

Peter,

According to Mondello they think it was the off the shelf hi-po cam bearings
and high pressure springs needed for my cam. They said they've had that problem
before with a huge cam and 700# springs with normal hi-po bearings. So they
sent me the "supposedly" new cryogenic bearings to replace the old ones. I also
replaced the rod and main bearings. The main bearings they sent me have the top
layer of babbit removed, this is supposed to make them more durable as well.
They look like crap but they're supposed to work real well.

Shane Gibreal

Peter Landowski wrote:

> What caused you to lose oil pressure and spin the cam bearing? Just curious
> because my 455 spun the #3 cam bearing, which spun and seized to the cam
> itself. My oil pressure would drop at WOT from about 48pds hot to 44pds
> hot. When taken apart and the housing bore checked, all was within specs. I
> believe mine was caused from NOT ENOUGH LUBE ON INITIAL STARTUP. THe other
> 3 were fine and I have oil restrictors in #2-3-4. The #3 cam bearing was
> the only one that spun.
> Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
> ----------
> >> This was all done (unknowingly) with a spun (or should I say spinning)
> cam
> > bearing. These figures were from the second, (and last) pull on the dyno.
> During
> > the last pull the oil pressure fluctuated between only 40 and 50# at WOT
> so we
> > didn't pull it any more. Very worried what was going on inside of the
> metal and
> > aluminum monster we tore it down to find the spun cam bearing. Ah-ha no
> wonder
> > we had no oil pressure>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 19:05:54 -0500
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: 86 Cutlass Cierra Fuel pump

To all,
	I had the displeasure today to go and retrieve my daughters 86 Cutlass
Cierra from the shoulder of Rt. 80 today. The car just died on her. When I
got there it had been sitting for several hours and when I tried to start
it, it fired right up. Unfortunatly, about 15 miles later it died again.
When I pulled off the aircleaner, there was no fuel getting into the
throttle body. Nothing at all. I added a little starting fluid and it fired
right up, so I know it's not a spark problem. My instincts tell me that the
fuel pump is shot. I've heard that these things are inside the gas tank. So
tomorrow I intend to drop the tank and replace the little bugger. Any
suggestions, hints, insights, (step by step instructions:-) from this list
would be greatly appreciated.
				Thanks in  advance,
				R. Kevin Noon
				66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
				85 Delta 88 Royale Brougham

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 19:23:16 -0500
From: "<GJC> CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: 86 Cutlass Cierra Fuel pump

Don't forget to replace all the fuel filters. Doesn't feel like a pump
problem. seems to long range, (15 miles), for the electric pump unless it a
wire grounding.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com

ICQ# 5209322 = "CC-IROC-SS"
Personal ICQ Communication Center:
http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322

Custom Conversion Proto-type:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
Project Questions To:
mailto:cc-iroc-ss@CC-IROC-SS.com

The CC-IROC-SS Project Delphi Forum:
http://forums.delphi.com/m/main.asp?sigdir=CC_IROC_SS

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of rkn
Sent: Friday, November 27, 1998 7:06 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 86 Cutlass Cierra Fuel pump


To all,
	I had the displeasure today to go and retrieve my daughters 86 Cutlass
Cierra from the shoulder of Rt. 80 today. The car just died on her. When I
got there it had been sitting for several hours and when I tried to start
it, it fired right up. Unfortunatly, about 15 miles later it died again.
When I pulled off the aircleaner, there was no fuel getting into the
throttle body. Nothing at all. I added a little starting fluid and it fired
right up, so I know it's not a spark problem. My instincts tell me that the
fuel pump is shot. I've heard that these things are inside the gas tank. So
tomorrow I intend to drop the tank and replace the little bugger. Any
suggestions, hints, insights, (step by step instructions:-) from this list
would be greatly appreciated.
				Thanks in  advance,
				R. Kevin Noon
				66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
				85 Delta 88 Royale Brougham

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 19:24:58 -0800
From: "Gib Loudon" <cutlass@mill.tds.net>
Subject: Title search?  A little assistance please.

hi everyone,

I have a little problem....I'm sure it's been brought up before but I need
to know how I could go about doing a title search.  I would like to find out
previous owners of my car and what work has been done to it.  I have the
protect-o-plate that came with the car but it only has the original owner's
first initial and last name.  The car was bought 30 years ago this coming
sunday.  So it will be hard to tell if the original owner is still alive or
even in the same area as before.  Any advice would be helpful.  Let me know
what you find out.  Email me back personally at loud5269@kettering.edu or
cutlass@mill.tds.net .  Thanks in advance.

Gib Loudon
Cutlass Net
http://www.cutlass.net
cutlass@mill.tds.net
loud5269@kettering.edu

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 18:31:08 -0800
From: Ted Griffin <griffint@govst.edu>
Subject: Re: Starfire choke

By golly, you may have hit it on the head!  It was running about like
the choke was a bit on, really rough and nasty.  This morning I took it
out and everything ran fine again.  If this happens again maybe I should
just "wire" the choke open?

Griff - who feels a lot better today than he did last night -  thanks
for the advice!


Thomas P. Smith wrote:

The only way the choke could be a problem after
the car reaches operating temp is if the choke is too far closed, when
the
engine now needs it open.  If I choke my engine after it is up to temp,
it'll run bad, too.  Since you have no cable attached, and thus no
control
over choke position, it may have slipped into a partially closed
position.
This would happen to me periodically with my Holley (also manual
choke) before I installed a cable.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 20:28:52 -0600
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Re: 455 Buildup

Cliff,

I have a Mondello (Engle) cam #JM-25-28, .523"/544" - 280/292. It runs real 
hard,
especially down low. Gas mileage isn't very good but I blame that on my carb 
and
convertor more than the cam. It's got a 3500 stall and an 850 double pumper w/
mechanical secondaries. Going down the hi-way at 3000 rpm, approx. 60 mph w/ 
3.90
gears, it gulps gas like it was beer. I think the secondaries are opening at 
that
rpm. Also the convertor is slipping not allowing all the power to be put to the
pavement. If I open it up to around 3300 rpm it jumps up 10-15 mph I'm guessing
because the convertor is begining to lock-up better, but I don't think it's to 
good
to run it any higher than 3000 for more than a few minutes. When I'm in town 
just
putting around it does much better on gas.
The car is '67 Cutlass convertible, weight 3300 lbs.?, idles from 700 to 1000 
(no
choke, I turn it up in the winter) it will idle lower but it bogs when I punch 
it
from idle if it's any lower, idle vacuum is 8-11 now, I am going to change my 
cam
timing this winter, hopefully this will make a difference. Even w/ low vacuum 
I am
still running power brakes, it is the small diameter setup that Mondello 
sells. I
think it's the same one you can get from Master Power Brakes. I had to use this
because my valve covers wouldn't clear any other one I could find. So far I 
have
ran a 12.92 at 99 mph w/ full exhaust. It should run a lot quicker but my coil
springs are way to stiff and I think my cam timing is off too.
Sorry to ramble.

Cliff Simpson wrote:

> If any of this is totally bogus then please let me know.  I would like to get
> more quantitative data on this subject like drive ratios, vehicle weights, 
idle
> speeds and idle vacuum but I guess I just have to buy one and hope for the
> best.  Good luck Igor and Jim and please let me (and the list) know how it
> comes out.
>
> --
>
> Cliff Simpson
> csimpson@ucalgary.ca
> '69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 21:32:47 EST
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Flaps for Inner Fender Wells

Does anybody out there have any easy way of putting the inner fender seals on
the inner wells? I know that it uses staples, but how do you get them through
the flaps? There has to be trick to this(I hope.) Who knows what it is?
Thanks,
Jim McKeague
http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html
'70 Rallye 350
'70 Cutlass W-31

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 21:40:51 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: 68 442 model kit

Hey list!

I am looking for a discontinued 1/25th model kit of a 68 cutlass/442    I had
one when I was but a tike,  but now I am looking for it again.   I will
consider a kit that's already built as long as it is complete.

Thanks


Vinny
62 Starfire
68 Hurst/Olds

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 22:07:12 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: DRL's

Was thinking about the DRL module I got from GM. Wanted to install it because
I like the twilight sentinel feature and the time delay shutoff function, but
after readiing some of the posts from Joe and the others, I decided to do the
best of both worlds. I hooked up the twilight sentinel and used my parking
lights instead of my low beams as the DRL. Now, the parking lights are on when
I'm driving in daylight and the lowbeams (and parking lights) automatically
come on at dusk when the sensor switches the DRL's off. There's also a time
delay shutoff of up to 90 seconds. I have to tell you, it's really cool.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 21:16:18 -0800
From: steven@purplemonkey.com (Steven Saraceno)
Subject: Re: W-27

Well I tried the putty knife with no success.  The goop is blue - looks
like Permatex - any other suggestions.  I still couldn't find the codes
either.  Hum? wonder what all this means.

Also, my brother-in-law offered to bead blast the rear end and then
powder coat the steel axle ends.  Am I better off using something like
POR's or do I go ahead and powder coat the axle.

Steven
1970 W-30 442 convertible

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 22:42:50 EST
From: W451973@aol.com
Subject: Re: 68 442 model kit

good luck, vinny. this kit was only made in 68 by johan, then the molds were
altered to make the 69. it is very pricey, so depending on what you have in
mind, you may be better off buying the conversion kit which consists of the
hood and both f and b bumpers. you can get it from the Modelhaus. cost is
16.00 dollors plus shipping. then youll need the new ertl 69 442 kit. there is
a fair amount of work involved, because these parts are copys of the original
johan and they do not fit perfectly. i have talked to this company about
reproducing the 68 442 . he has all of the stuff to do it, but he says its not
popular enough for him to make a profit. with the price of a mint original 68
kit going for 225.00 plus,  this just dont make sence to me.
the phone number for the modelhaus is   217-864-4402   modelhaus@q-com.com
there in decatur, il     good luck, hope this helps
BTW     they also sell a 49 olds 4 door for 46.00
Dennis
w451973

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 19:44:28 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: fast idle

At 12:17 PM 11/27/98 -0200, you wrote:
>Here We Go Again! :-)
>
>I have almost successfully changed the carb in my 307 Y powered 86
>Cutlass Supreme.  I got a 52k mile carb from a Monte Carlo, which works
>fine except for one thing.  I can't get the idle to go down, and
>although I don't have a tachometer, I am willing to guess it to be
>around 2500-3000 RPM.  

when the old carb was on the engine did you ever advance the timing 
to get it to run better?

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1629
*********************************

