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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1614


oldsmobile-digest      Friday, November 20 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1614



Re: dead lean solved ( I thin+silicon not always answer)
Re: valve cover gaskets
Re: speedo gear info
Re: Olds 455 oiling system
POR-15 : Pleucid
Re: Oldsmobile FAQ
Re: HEADS >>  Heat Riser Filling.
Valve cover sealing
Re: Mondello:Prices!?
Speedo Gear Changes
Re: Speedo Gear Changes
Headers and Neutral Safety Switch
Re: Those Damn Blue Headlights
Re: Mondello:Prices!?
Re: Speedo Gear Changes
Re: Headers and Neutral Safety Switch
ADV: 1031 Exchange Update
403 pistons
Re: Headers and Neutral Safety Switch
Re: Valve Covers
455 oil system
Re: Headers and Neutral Safety Switch
Re: Headers and Neutral Safety Switch
Re: Valve cover sealing
Re: Headers and Neutral Safety Switch
Mondello and other parts suppliers
Re: Turkey Rod Run Daytona
Re: Valve Covers
Re: valve cover gaskets
Re: Oldsmobile FAQ
Lady Kitsu Re: About the Intake
"rear end" prepping....
Re: Headers and Neutral Safety Switch
Re: valve cover gaskets
Re: Headers and Neutral Safety Switch
Re: motor check stand
Re: Headers and Neutral Safety Switch
Re: Olds 455 oiling system
Heads
Re: garage space, long
Re: motor check stand
Re: Headers and Neutral Safety Switch
Re: Heads
Re: "rear end" prepping....
Re: About the Intake/ more Quadrajet info
Paging Steve Ochs
Re: motor check stand
Re: Heads
Re: Heads
Re:  SB rear main seal
RE: HEADS >>  Heat Riser Filling.
Re: "rear end" prepping....
Re: Those Damn Blue Headlights
Re: valve cover gaskets
Re: HEADS >>  Heat Riser Filling.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 10:51:24 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: dead lean solved ( I thin+silicon not always answer)

For my new 455, I decided to buy a rebuild '70 442 carburator.  Price was
right, the carb looked great.  From first minute, the carb could hold no
fuel, I realized the problem but was too preocupied with the 455 and
listening for noises from my new engine.  Second day I decided to try WOT on
the highway, 20 miles from home at like 1:00 AM.  As soon as I let off the
throtle, the car started to jump and gurgle.   Running it under 2000 rpm
made it barley run.  I had to drive 20 miles home like this.  I thought
(still do) that this carb did some damage to my new motor, like damage the
rings (was I ever pissed when I returned the carb).  Turns out that who ever
rebuilt it used silicon in combination with the bottom bowl gasket.  You
guess what happened next.  When I torqued the carb down, it squeezed the
silicon out, and just one of the things it did was jam the secondary plates
OPEN, hence why the thing jumped aroud.  The worst part was that the IDIOT
at the parts counter insisted that I put the silicon in, called me a liar
and stuff.  Stupid guy was 1/2 my size and I just wanted to go around the
counter and stuff the Q-jet down his throat.  Anyway, new carb arives and I
go to pick it up.  Still sealed in a box, I make (another guy, but he knew
about the hole thing) open the plastic and look at the carb.  Quess what,
SILICON.  He called the asshole back to see, and you should have heard the
crap I told him.  Bastard.  Anyway, loose gaskets, use of silicon can cause
serious carb problems.




>About 10 days ago I posted a message about having put back on a carburetor
>that had worked fine prior to my doing some other "messing" with the motor.
>After reinstalling,  couldn't get the carb to run well, was verrrrrry lean,
>couldn't adjust. Got back some helpful suggestions from list.
>
>Got into carb yesterday & found what looked like a piece of airhorn  gasket
>sucked into a primary jet. Believe problem solved.
>
>Am confounding things, though, by trying to replicate specs for W-31 carb.
>Changed to .074 primary jets & .048 primary rods.  Also added high vol
>accelerator pump and high flow needle & seat valve. Remains to be seen what
>effects will result from all this fiddling other than increased fuel
>consumption.
>
>roger
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 10:58:09 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: valve cover gaskets

Joe,

I am almost certain that the 307 in question ('84 I believe) has the five
bolt valvecovers.  My '81 did and my dads friends '85 did.  It makes all the
difference in the world compared to the 10 bolt units.  With the 10 bolts,
you can almost guarantee no leak, but with 5 it is hard.  I used RTV for my
installation successfully, but gaskets did not work well.  On one of the
instances, the gaskets simply folded around the head metal material, causing
oil to just spit right out.  The Chevy plates are a good idea.  I would
imagine that they went to the 5 bolt from 10 bolt to save money.  There is
no other explanation.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 11:02:18 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: speedo gear info

Thanks for the formula, but do you know the number of teeth the big gear
would have for 2.56 and TH400.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: November 20, 1998 9:32 AM
Subject: RE: speedo gear info



>Guys, the math for this is very easy. Using the following formulas you will
>get a very close approximation for the speed-gear you need. You need to do
a
>little research first, but this info. you should have and know especially
if
>you're talking about changing gears:
>
> Assume you already have 2.73 gears and the speedo drive gear has 31
>teeth. This is your original matched setup that gives you the correct
>driving speed. You now changed to 3.42 gears. You want to find out what
>speedo gear to use, actually what you want to find out is the number of
>teeth the speedo gear should have in order to achieve the correct speed on
>the speedometer.
>
>The formulas:
>
> (original-gear)(original-speedo-gear) = (new gear)(unknown
>x)
>The math:
>
> 2.73(31)=3.42(x), solve for x.
>
> In this case, x (# of teeth of the speedo gear) is 24.75 or 25
>teeth. Simple. Effectively, using a 25 gear tooth for the speedo will bring
>you back to your original speed gauge configuration using the new gears.
>
>Note: these number are fictitious. You need to find out the original
gearing
>first for you application.
>
>Note: If the numbers you get for the speedo gears are not possible (read
>they don't make them), then you will have to consider changing the other
>gear the speedo gear mats to in order to achieve your correct
configuration.
>That is, after doing the math you find out that you need a 15 tooth speedo
>gear, well this gear doesn't exist, so you may have to change the other
gear
>that the speedo mats to in order to correctly configure your speedo gauge.
>This will happen when you switch to using a very low gearing, say from 2.14
>you go to using 4.11's or even lower (5.10..etc), then you'll have to
change
>more than the speedo gear to correct your speedo.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: David Brode [SMTP:dbrode@hereintown.net]
>> Sent: Thursday, November 19, 1998 6:34 PM
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: speedo gear info
>>
>> Hello,
>>  I've had good luck choosing a speedo driven gear this way;
>> 1. Determine what percentage the speedo is off - go 10 miles on the
>> freeway, counting the mile markers to determine the percentage of
>> "incorrectness".
>> 2. Count the number of teeth on your driven gear.
>> 3. Calculate the teeth count needed on the new gear.
>>  In other words, if your odometer[and therefore your speedo] is 10%
>> slow, you need a driven gear with 10% less teeth, and vice versa.
>>  Hope this helps.
>> Dave Brode
>> 64 Cutlass 10" tire, pump gas street car. 11.41@119.96
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 11:12:18 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Olds 455 oiling system

All this talk of poor olds oiling has me worried.  When I rebuild my budget
455, the oiling system stayed stock.  I installed a new Sealed-Power oil
pump, but that is it.  It is a mild 455.  My oil reassure is no more the 60
psi cold, 40-50 psi warm idle.  I am worried now.  If I check the oil after
I shut down the motor (right after), there is little in the pan.  Obviously
it can't be full right away, but it has me worried.  What about the stock
W-30 or W-31 motors and others.  I know some lasted a long time, and still
went okay.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 12:22:43 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: POR-15 : Pleucid

Has anyone out there used the new POR-15 product called pleucid on
chrome
bumpers? I was looking to have my 72 Olds bumpers painted with this
stuff.
My questions are is if it leaves streaks or bubbles if painted with a
foam
brush? How does it look? Is it comparable to a good chrome buffing job,
or
is it better?

Also how about chrome moldings, chrome doorhandles,etc....
- --
Expensive, but a good product. The insides, yes, but I wouldn't use it
on the outsides of bumpers unless the car is a winter driver. Just use a
chrome polish (Meguier's or Simichrome) once or twice a year to protect
the outside.

A foam brush works great! Make sure you thin and clean up with Xylene or
Xylol and not lacquer thinner.

On pot metal and plastic chromed pieces (centers, grills, etc), yes.
Practice on some less than pristine pieces first.

- -- 
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 12:26:39 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile FAQ

Does the FAQ ever get updated without the last revision description
getting
updated as well?

I ask because I downloaded the following version:
V 4.1 Released 12/11/1997

a LONG time ago, and have learned SO MUCH from the list since then, that
when I go back to read the FAQ on the web I can't tell if the thing has
been updated or if I'm just more with the program. The revision number
available at 442.com is the same as listed above.

I guess another question is, "Does the FAQ ever get updated?"
- --

It will. It's been a very busy spring, summer and fall for me. I have a
ton of new stuff to add, and will be revising some areas, and adding
others. I plan for a near January release. Hang in there.

- -- 
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 13:15:40 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: HEADS >>  Heat Riser Filling.

>I use them, but to avoid your problem I welded them in place. No >rattling
after 3 years of use. I think that's the ticket when using them

That thought has rattled around in my head. ;-)

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 12:31:01 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Valve cover sealing

Here's a question for you:

Since RTV is a gasket maker, why put RTV on a gasket?

If RTV is being used as a sealer, why not use a sealer or gasket
dressing instead?

Ok, maybe it was a rhetorical question.

- -- 
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 10:30:12 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Mondello:Prices!?

I wouldn't believe everything you here.  Comp Cams is the only place I 
could find pushrods for my 403 with the Harland Sharp roller rockers
I run there rockerarm studs and guide plates.  I could have gotten the 
same parts from Joe but up to 50% higher.  Joe has the parts, but 
sometimes (not often) you can find them in Summit.  I get most of my 
olds parts from Summit. Just because it isn't listed doesn't mean they 
don't have it.

I've heard stories of Comp Cams parts not working correctly in the
>valvetrain. 
>
>I would rather pay a little more and get something that has been tested 
and
>known to work


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 12:30:59 -0600
From: "Drusch, Wayne (Human Resources & Risk Mgmt)" 
<wayne_drusch@co.harris.tx.us>
Subject: Speedo Gear Changes

The 70-72 Olds Shop Manuals list tooth number and gear color for given
rearend gears offered those years. Probably other year manuals have
similar info. Don't forget, tire diameter can also affect or be used to
change effective gear ratio. My Cutlass is stock but speedo reads 3mph
low because I have smaller diameter tires than factory put on.

E. Wayne Drusch
71 Cutlass Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 13:41:08 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Speedo Gear Changes

My Cutlass is stock but speedo reads 3mph
low because I have smaller diameter tires than factory put on.
_________

Um...smaller diameter tires will require more revolutions per mile than
larger ones at a given road speed.  As a result, the transmission's output
shaft (and hence the speedometer drive cable) will be turning faster with
the smaller tires (note that smaller diameter tires have the same effect as
changing to a higher numerical rear end ratio).  Smaller tires should make
the speedo read higher than stock, not lower.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 13:53:17 -0500
From: "Chris Brown" <Elric@dclink.com>
Subject: Headers and Neutral Safety Switch

I have a question regarding the installation of headers.  Everything I have
read on the list and in the FAQ says to remove the column shift linkage.  My
question regarding this is the reason the column linkage is there is that
they left the neutral safety switch on the column.  Is there a way to
reposition the switch or a replacement kit to put another switch in the
console?

Chris Brown
72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 12:56:35 -0600
From: "Robert Stoneham (EUS)" <EUSROBS@am1.ericsson.se>
Subject: Re: Those Damn Blue Headlights

These must also be the next generation of automotive fad items where I live.
I see them in my area on all kinds of cars. (I've also seen some green.)
It's the look that a lot of people are after.   My girlfriend and I were
walking into a restaurant yesterday and I noticed a car parked right up
front.  It had light-blue Wal-mart shopping bags tied over the driving
lights.  Yes, I am being serious!  Got my laugh for the day and I needed
one!     Go figure...
Robert Stoneham
86 CS - 307, 200R4 (Pristine)
78 Ford (Old Faithful)
robert.stoneham@ericsson.com <mailto:robert.stoneham@ericsson.com> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 11:34:26 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Mondello:Prices!?

Thank you I was starting to wonder if anyone else knew this or if they 
were just giving there money to Joe unnecessarily.

> ...Look in your Jegs and Summit catalogs
>and good luck trying to find Olds engine parts...
>________
>
>While I know it's frustrating to thumb through one of these and see all 
the
>Chevy and Ford parts, please keep in mind that just because the items
>aren't listed in the catalog doesn't mean that they don't exist.  
Summit
>and Jegs are trying to make a profit while selling at a lower price 
than
>most.  As a result, they typically stock and advertise only the most
>popular parts (read that Chevy and Ford).  Most of the vendors they 
feature
>also make similar parts for Olds.  Sometimes These two houses can get 
these
>parts, despite the fact that the items are not listed in the catalog.  
It
>may help if you have the vendor's part number when you call Jegs or 
Summit
>on one of these items.  Failing that, call the manufacturer directly 
and
>ask if they sell directly or if they can recommed a distributor.  As an
>example, neither Jegs nor Summit list all the Federal Mogul piston and
>bearing sizes, yet FM sells a huge variety.  Yes, Mondello lists all of
>them, but I've found that you can get the same items for much less 
money
>from outfits like Norther Auto Parts.  Keep in mind that most of what 
he
>sells is other companies' stuff which has been relabled with his part
>numbers.  Every set of hands that touches the item extracts some 
additional
>profit.  It's worth a little time doing the research.
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30
>
>


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Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 14:33:22 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Speedo Gear Changes

>My Cutlass is stock but speedo reads 3mph low because I have >smaller
diameter tires than factory put on.

Uhhhh Wayne.........that doesn't jive. Smaller diameter tires would give you
a higher reading. More revolutions of the tire per mile.(compared to larger
dia. tires) Thich translates into a higher rpm of the output driveshaft and
since this is what your speedo is driven off.......your speedo will read
faster than are really going. Your odometer will be off the same amount
also.  You are actually putting more miles on the car than you are driving.

ie. I replaced the 2.73 gears in my Cutlass with 3.73 gears. (same as using
smaller dia. tires) My speedo is off 30%. When my speedo reads 100 mph I'm
actually doing 70. For every mile that I actually drive, my odometer clicks
off 1.3 miles. (an extra 300 mi for every 1000 I drive) Makes the gas
mileage look good though. ;-)

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 14:50:23 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Headers and Neutral Safety Switch

In a message dated 11/20/98 10:56:52 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Elric@dclink.com writes:

<< I have a question regarding the installation of headers.  Everything I have
 read on the list and in the FAQ says to remove the column shift linkage.  My
 question regarding this is the reason the column linkage is there is that
 they left the neutral safety switch on the column.  Is there a way to
 reposition the switch or a replacement kit to put another switch in the
 console? >>

     At least on the G-bodies (mine anyway) The reverse light switch is column
run too, at least with a console. I WAS going to do away with it on my car
too...(looks funny when the column sleeve turns "magically"!)  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 11:53:49 -0500 (EST)
From: "bball@exchangecom.net" <bball@exchangecom.net>
Subject: ADV: 1031 Exchange Update

Anyone wishing to be removed from this periodic update may do so below.

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You Don't Need To Exchange To Participate - You Can Sell or Buy w/o 
Exchanging - Commercial, Residential, Income, Land, Business - Qualify 

++++++++ HAVES & WANTS In This Update +++++++++++++++++++++++

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************ Brief Description ******************************

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 15:03:54 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: 403 pistons

     Since I have to bore the 403, the .0040(?) pistons that were in there
have to go. They are of course used, but good enough that I was going to use
them again. I assume any motor that's bored can use them, but I'm not
postive..I figure they shouldn't wear anyplace that would matter regarding the
bore. If anyone's interested (there are SO many of you using 403's haha) e-
mail me privately...don't want to get rich, and would like to save someone
else the agony of $200 a set for new ones if I can.  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 14:15:11 -0600
From: "Mark Tupper" <mtupper@palacenet.net>
Subject: Re: Headers and Neutral Safety Switch

>     At least on the G-bodies (mine anyway) The reverse light switch is
column
>run too, at least with a console. I WAS going to do away with it on my car
>too...(looks funny when the column sleeve turns "magically"!)  Dorian


Hmm.. I remember on my '72 I broke the shifter lever off... the only way I
could change gears was to turn the collar on the steering column. A rather
effective anti-theft device. ;-) Even after replacing the shifter lever, I
always had to hold the steering column sleeve in a certain position to start
the car, presumably disengaging the neutral safety switch. I had to give
lessons to people in order for them to be able to drive the car. :-)

Anyway, the point is that the column should turn whether or not it's a
column shift or floor shift car...just that the lever assembly isn't there
on floor shift models...since it's "round" you just don't notice it. Try it
and see. :-)

- -Mark Tupper     1987 442    (OCA 30666)
 mtupper@palacenet.net     http://cyberglyphs.com/442/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 11:38:49 -0800 (PST)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Valve Covers

  Take a look at the cover.  Especially look neat the bolt holes.  If
area around the holes is even slightly dented in, it will bottom out
before the rest of the cover gets a good seal.  Tap those areas out a
bit, and it should help.  It shouldn't matter if you use RTV on the
gasket, the gasket should seal without it, but putting it on won't
hurt.  Good Luck.

Stefan
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
sgadecki@yahoo.com




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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 15:25:05 -0500
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: 455 oil system

I have the same oil system as Peter on my 455, I have run it to 6600 rpm
trying a new intake out. , and have run it all season at the track, and
like the battery it keeps going and going,  just some info.  btw 99%
mondello, hes the man      Butch  68  442  post

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 03 Nov 1998 13:28:01 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Headers and Neutral Safety Switch

It's my understanding that the linkage also prevents moving
a console shift car out of part without turning the key.

Just another consideration before you get out the hacksaw.

> <snip>
> Anyway, the point is that the column should turn whether or not it's a
> column shift or floor shift car...just that the lever assembly isn't there
> on floor shift models...since it's "round" you just don't notice it. Try it
> and see. :-)
> 
> -Mark Tupper     1987 442    (OCA 30666)
>  mtupper@palacenet.net     http://cyberglyphs.com/442/

- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 15:29:11 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Headers and Neutral Safety Switch

Anyway, the point is that the column should turn whether or not it's a
column shift or floor shift car...just that the lever assembly isn't there
on floor shift models...since it's "round" you just don't notice it. Try it
and see. :-)
_________

That's correct, but the original question concerned the fact that the
backdrive rod must be removed to install headers, rendering the neutral
safety/backup lamp switch inoperative.  Now, while it doesn't solve the
neutral safety switch problem (you still can start the car in gear), the
way I got around the backup light problem was to simply rotate the collar
manually when I put the car in reverse.  The lights will go on, but you
must remember to rotate it back to turn them off and to re-engage the
neutral safety switch for the next time you go to start the car.  Also, the
collar must be in the PARK position (furthest counter clockwise) in order
for the steering column lock to engage and enable you to remove the key.

One option for fixing this is to adapt the neutral safety/backup lamp
switch from a 67-69 shifter.  This switch is a "straight line" actuation
switch and mounted to the shifter mechanism inside the console.  Since the
non-dual gate shifter for 70-72 is virtually the same as the 67-69 shifter
(yes, the console is different, but the shifter is similar), you may be
able to adapt the earlier switch.  Obviously, you'll need longer harnesses
to reach.  Also, whatever you do to the switch, you'll need to ensure that
the steering column collar is always in the PARK position to allow the lock
to engage.  I've done this in the past by drilling a small hole through the
steering column outer casing and into the inner sleeve and screwing a short
sheet metal screw into the hole.  The inner sleeve is the one that is
turned by the backdrive linkage and which activates the switch and the
sleeve that mates with the lock pawl.  Be sure that the screw you use is
short enough to not contact the actual steering shaft in the center of the
column.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 15:34:13 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: Valve cover sealing

the rtv holds the gasket to the valve cover for simplified installation.
that's it.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 15:38:40 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: Headers and Neutral Safety Switch

i'm pretty sure that on 1970 models with console shift, the switch is in the
console.  i have looked at mine and there's not one on the column.  the rod
that goes up to the column is only there for the shifter lock.

mikeytvb@aol.com
70 442 w/455

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 15:45:57 -0500
From: Jim Donoghue <jdonogh1@ford.com>
Subject: Mondello and other parts suppliers

Was just wondering if any of these places can get parts for diesel
engines (v6 and v8) - or do you think it would be a waste of my time?
Parts like pistons, etc. are getting harder to find. Any suggestions
appreciated. Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 15:46:12 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: Turkey Rod Run Daytona

i can't help you with the transpo.  i'm only going to the swap meet.  do you
know if people have many olds parts?  this is my first year.  hopefully i can
find some stuff i need.

mikeytvb@aol.com
70 442 w/455

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 14:58:58 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: Valve Covers

At 01:33 AM 11/20/98 , you wrote:
>Brian & Igor,
>
>Boys! Boys!  Get a grip!
>
>Flaming each other with cheap language on the list is not what we all tune in
>for. But what really takes the cake is that, it is over leaky valve covers. I
>can't imagine what you will say when it is a real problem!

Randy, Igor and I really talk like that.  There were no flames going either
direction.  The reason I was so frustrated is the same reason Igor
was...it's a simple, stupid thing that should be easy to take care of.  And
when you're doing it for the first time (like all of you did once, be nice)
and you _think_ you screwed it up, it frustrates you even more.


>
>Just some notes to this dilemma:

<snip>

>If you still have leaks go back to #1. If valve covers are warped beyond
>repair, replace. Anything else is a temporary solution.

The only problem with what you have recommended, Randy, is that we are
talking about an '84 307 w/ A/C here, and there is a MONDO amount
of...stuff EVERYWHERE that gets in the way of removing the valve cover.
Now, removing the air distribution valve, air pump pulley, A/C compressor
and mounting brackets, plus having to disconnect and label all the vacuum
hoses is not HARD, it is just a major pain in the ass, and putting it back
together more so (even if you DID label everything, which I DID do last
time, thank you).

I have to date been "going back to #1", but every time I do that it's
another 1 1/2 - 2 hours out of my life, bending over in front of the house
because appearantly it NEVER OCCURED to people who built houses around
campus that students could want to work on their cars...

>Brian, I commend you on the use of yellow spray paint. Very smart!
>

Thank you.  I wouldn't do this on a motor where looks mattered to me (400,
455), but for this application it worked great.  It will probably burn off
eventually.

- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 15:03:55 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: valve cover gaskets

Hi Joe. Long time.  As you can guess, there's no '69 in my garage right
now, our previous conversations to the contrary.  Cry me a river...

At 09:35 AM 11/20/98 , you wrote:
>OK, it's time to wade into this mess.  First question:  does the 307 in
>question have the cheesy five bolt valve covers instead of the normal ten
>bolt covers?

YES.

This may be your biggest problem.  Obviously, all the prior
>posts on checking flatness should be followed, but face it, the gap between
>the bolts will be greater.  Consider using some of the Chevy-type load
>spreaders under the valve cover bolts (you'll need longer bolts) to help
>distribute the clamping force more uniformly.

These ride between the gasket and the head?  Or between the gasket and the
cover?  They'd have to be pretty thick to require longer bolts, though...

Also, while I have used RTV
>for valve covers with good results, I prefer to use good quality neoprene
>gaskets.

NEOPRENE is black rubber, yes?  Which costs less than cork, yes?  Which,
to...novices, let's say...like me, implies that for some reason it must be
"not as good", yes?

I install them dry, with no adhesive, RTV, or additional sealer.
>I've never had a problem on stock valve covers (M/T cast aluminum is
>another problem all together, however), but of course, I've got the ten
>bolt units.
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30
> 

It just doesn't seem fair that he gets to have all those neato cars and I
can't get oil off my manifold...




- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 16:02:24 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile FAQ

In a message dated 98-11-19 14:22:28 EST, you write:

<< I guess another question is, "Does the FAQ ever get updated?" >>

The answer is yes.

The problem is that the FAQ compiler is a person just like you who does not
have an enternity of free time to re-evaluate and augment the information
there.

But if you have a question based on info in the FAQ this is a good forum for
it, as the FAQ compiler is on the digest and takes a signig\ficant amount of
information from discussions here.

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 16:02:22 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Lady Kitsu Re: About the Intake

<<  My choke never worked, even on the 'old' set up (that is 
 - before the engine was replaced). The choke was tied open, I believe it 
 was because the choke broke. Right now the choke is again tied open. The 
 carb that was in there was rebuilt, which is how I found out the problem 
 with the choke (I've a lot to learn about cars). >>

Ah, a 1966 div. choke intake.
Acuired a 1966 "98" carb recently, with its div. choke.
Can gaurantee same as for Delta.
Just not positive Karl willing to part with choke....
Will you settle for a replication of the choke rod???
 
<< Kevin Noon - 66 Dynamic 88 Convertible.....AAAHHH, the original car of 
 my dreams...would ya consider trading for a 66 Delta 88 with a few 
 problems <grin> As for the intake, I'm going to have to  check the carb 
 and check with the guy who rebuilt it to make absolutly *SURE* that I 
 get the right one. >>

Intake is easy, 1966 Div choke uses one with a 1/2 cylinder depression on
passenger side of the carburetor. Integral chokes use deep, narrow slot, and a
plate with two holes for the choke stove in approximately the same locale.

HOWEVER, integral choke Q-Jets can be retrofitted with electric chokes that
fit inside the integral choke housing. In this case, intake does not matter!

<< From what I was told it can be an intake from 68-69, 400, 425 or 455, 
 and it is indeed a divorced choke....BTW, does anyone also have the 
 'Choke Rod' that attaches it to the choke. >>

Sounds right, Div choke manifolds should be similar....

Um, got the 1966 choke coil and rod, but not sure that am willing to part with
it.....

Anyone else with a 1966 BB div choke?

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 16:02:18 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: "rear end" prepping....

So I (uh... Karl! yeah! that's what I  meant!) scored a correct rear end for
SOM.

Same diff code and everything.
Gonna spend the weekend dissasemling/cleaning it.

Problem with current one is oil seal surface out of round.
Figure to swap all current stuff (gears, axle shafts, etc ) into new (old)
housing.
So Karl intends to totally take axle assembly apart.

Would like to hear about the caveats or "mightaswells" for
disassembly/cleaning a 1965 rear axle assembly housing.
And yes, Karl fully intends to take it to "Reddy-strip" to have it
electrolytically de-rusted.

Should Karl have it shot-peened or magna-fluxed as well?
How about powder coated?

Comments and flames invited.

Thanks, 

SOM
&KA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 16:07:51 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Headers and Neutral Safety Switch

GOOD QUESTION! I await the answer anxiously!

- -----Original Message-----

>I have a question regarding the installation of headers.  Everything I have
>read on the list and in the FAQ says to remove the column shift linkage.
My
>question regarding this is the reason the column linkage is there is that
>they left the neutral safety switch on the column.  Is there a way to
>reposition the switch or a replacement kit to put another switch in the
>console?
>
>Chris Brown
>72 Cutlass Supreme
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 16:05:53 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: valve cover gaskets

>Consider using some of the Chevy-type load
>spreaders under the valve cover bolts (you'll need longer bolts) to help
>distribute the clamping force more uniformly.

These ride between the gasket and the head?  Or between the gasket and the
cover?  They'd have to be pretty thick to require longer bolts, though...
____________

Neither.  These are approximately 1/4" thick metal "bars" which go on the
outside of the cover, over the flange on top of the gasket.  The load
spreaders are formed so that when the bolt is torqued down, the load is
spread over a much wider area than just the bolt head.

=================

NEOPRENE is black rubber, yes?  Which costs less than cork, yes?  Which,
to...novices, let's say...like me, implies that for some reason it must be
"not as good", yes?
____________

Hard to believe, isn't it.  I had the same reaction, but...

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 16:10:46 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Headers and Neutral Safety Switch

That's not true with my 75 console shift Cutlass.

- -----Original Message-----

>Anyway, the point is that the column should turn whether or not it's a
>column shift or floor shift car...just that the lever assembly isn't there
>on floor shift models...since it's "round" you just don't notice it. Try it
>and see. :-)
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 16:13:01 EST
From: RONS69OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: motor check stand

In a message dated 11/20/98 9:13:09 AM Eastern Standard Time,
Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM writes:

<< padavano.joe@orbital.com >>
I have a 1969 442 2 door post that i am building an original engine for but i
am  not sure what horsepower heads i have. Can you tell me what the markings
are for all three 400 ci engine's are sopposed to be. That is all three that
were made in 69.   Thank you

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 16:16:57 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Headers and Neutral Safety Switch

In a message dated 11/20/98 1:15:06 PM Pacific Standard Time,
comid@jellico.com writes:

<< That's not true with my 75 console shift Cutlass. >>

And your reverse lights work? Thats pretty interesting. Is that basically the
same column GM used into the 90's?  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 16:30:35 -0500
From: tonwald@eta.k12.mn.us (Tony Waldner)
Subject: Re: Olds 455 oiling system

>All this talk of poor olds oiling has me worried.  When I rebuild my budget
>455, the oiling system stayed stock.  I installed a new Sealed-Power oil
>pump, but that is it.  It is a mild 455.  My oil reassure is no more the 60
>psi cold, 40-50 psi warm idle.  I am worried now.  If I check the oil after
>I shut down the motor (right after), there is little in the pan.  Obviously
>it can't be full right away, but it has me worried.  What about the stock
>W-30 or W-31 motors and others.  I know some lasted a long time, and still
>went okay.


You can mellow out Igor.  If you keep the rev's below 5 grand your stock
system will be fine. People are being misled here.  Olds' have an oil
volume problem, not pressure.  These are two different animals that often
get confused.  High pressure does nobody any good if there is not any oil
to pump.  In an Olds motor the oil must be returned to the pan as quickly
as possible or the pan may be sucked dry.  40 psi pressure warm is more
than enough.  Too much pressure, say over 80 psi is hard on an engine too.

In my 85 Cutlass Salon I run a Toro 5 quart pan with a Diesel oil cooler
filter adapter and a diesel radiator with a Fram 1 quart filter PH 11.  I
have a total of 8 quarts with this lo buck stock system. I run a Melling HV
pump that runs around 60 psi. This car runs 12.80s all day at the track
with no oiling problems. With short bursts to 5800 RPM the 8 quart system
works great.

I did port the rear main oil flow passage off of the pump mount for better
initial flow.  I think this is very important. I also polished the return
valleys under the heads to the lifter area for faster oil return to the
pan.

My 455 in my boat is subject to long bouts at 5500-5700 rpm.  A 5 minute
cruise at this RPM is not uncommon.  I use a Dooley Enterprises 14 quart
pan on that motor. I also have a dual remote filter set up.
It takes FOREVER to change the oil in that baby! The pump is a high volume
with a special pick up for the big pan. The rear main has been ported too.
The engine internals on my boat are the same as my '85 Salon.

I just got back on the list today after a busy fall.  Hopefully things will
slow down now!  Good to see the ol' famililiar names again!

Take care --

Tony

70 442 W-30
70 442 W-30 convert
70 Toro GT W-34
65 Jetstar 88 w/4-speed
84 Hurst Olds
85 Cutlass Salon 455 Drag Racer
92 Seville STS

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 16:25:55 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Heads

I have a 1969 442 2 door post that i am building an original engine for but
i
am  not sure what horsepower heads i have. Can you tell me what the
markings
are for all three 400 ci engine's are sopposed to be. That is all three
that
were made in 69.   Thank you
___________

There were only two head castings available for big blocks in 1969, the C
heads and the D heads.  The letter (C or D) will appear as a raised, 1"
high letter to the left of the number one and number eight spark plugs.  D
heads were only used on W-30s and H/Os in 1969 (and 1968) and are quite
rare and expensive.  All D heads have big valves and 72 cc (or so)
combustion chambers.  C heads came with either big (2.07" intake) or small
(2.00" intake) valves.  Unfortunately, there is no way to tell without
pulling the head and measuring the valve diameter.  Combustion chamber size
on these heads is about 80 cc.  C heads were used on all big blocks (400,
425, and 455 cu in) built from 1967 throught 1969, except for the
above-mentioned 68-69 W-30s and H/Os.  (Yes, I know about the C-head A/C 68
H/Os)

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 13:34:47 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: garage space, long

> Running out of garage space, want to store 75 Cutlass in friend's
> garage, has roof and three and 1/2 sides, Double door, one door
> missing, right where the car goes. [...]
> Some snow may blow in, offered to build him a new door. No answer 
> yet.

Lou, build him the door if at all possible. That way you stand a 
better chance of keeping out the two-legged critters as well as the 
four; an open garage is an invitation to poke around, especially one 
with cars visible inside.

I like the idea about laying plastic on the ground inside as a vapor
barrier, too; wouldn't be perfect but a big improvement, plus all the
creepie-crawlies in the ground would have to go a lot further around
the end of the plastic in order to get up into the car.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 15:36:59 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: motor check stand

Dorian, 
Heard that for years, Too rapid cooling could cause the valve to warp,
never seen it happen, but's it written in stone, Like" setting a battery on
a concrete floor will make it discharge", that doesn't happen either,
unless the WHOLE battery is covered with acid or water to make a connection
between the posts and then to the floor. Maybe it happens, just haven't
seen it happen, maybe my wifes' an alien also. Thats probably closer to the
fact, I know she scares me sometimes.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
- ----------
> From: DYeager535@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: motor check stand
> Date: Friday, November 20, 1998 1:28 AM

>       I have heard the same thing, but no plausible explanation as to WHY
this
> would happen. Have driven short distances this way, and no problems, at
least
> immediate, when there was no other choice. Anyone know exactly why? Too
rapid
> cooling of the valves??
>                                                                          
    
> Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 13:42:14 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Headers and Neutral Safety Switch

> << That's not true with my 75 console shift Cutlass. >>
>
> And your reverse lights work? Thats pretty interesting. Is that 
> basically the same column GM used into the 90's?  Dorian

Apparently not, as my '82 Cutlass with console shifter did indeed
turn its collar via the backdrive rod; the ignition interlock and
steering lock were operated by it just as if it was a column shift.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 16:46:47 -0500
From: tonwald@eta.k12.mn.us (Tony Waldner)
Subject: Re: Heads

>above-mentioned 68-69 W-30s and H/Os.  (Yes, I know about the C-head A/C 68
>H/Os)
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>


Do you believe that Joe?  Of all the people on this list I hold your engine
knowledge to the highest regard.  I think the C head H/O's were a rumor
started by the same guy who bought the Corvette parked in a barn from the
old lady who took out the ad in the paper after her son died in the war.
Remember the different versions of the   "For Sale  63 Chev, in storage
$50.00" stories!!!

I bet we have all heard this story!!

Tony

70 442 W-30
70 442 W-30 convert
70 Toro GT W-34
65 Jetstar 88 w/4-speed
84 Hurst Olds
85 Cutlass Salon 455 Drag Racer
92 Seville STS

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 16:30:17 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: "rear end" prepping....

So I (uh... Karl! yeah! that's what I  meant!)...
___________

So Karl uses the term "I" not once, but twice in the same sentence!  Next
thing you know he...er...Karl...will tell us he owns a Ford!

As for cleaning the rear end housing, I've sandblasted mine after stripping
out the guts.  I used duct tape to seal all the openings, had it blasted
and powder coated.  Looked great.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 16:20:12 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: About the Intake/ more Quadrajet info

      For everyones info, there are mistakes in the Roe Quadrajet book (that
can be expected) For those of you whose Quadrajet's fall under the slotted
secondary metering rod category, there are at least two more slotted rod sets
that I have in posession..no one probably cares, but of anyone does, I would
be happy to relay the info.  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 16:08:47 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Paging Steve Ochs

Steve,

If you're still around, please contact me. Would like to prevail upon your 
transmission knowledge.

roger hitson

hitson@i1.net 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 13:57:06 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: motor check stand

> Like "setting a battery on a concrete floor will make it discharge", 
> that doesn't happen either, unless the WHOLE battery is covered with 
> acid or water to make a connection between the posts and then to the 
> floor. Maybe it happens, just haven't seen it happen,

Putting a block of wood under the battery if it's on a concrete
(presumably garage) floor is for thermal protection, not electrical
protection. The concrete floor at night can chill the battery below
the temperature of the surrounding air, causing condensation to form
a conductive path between the terminals. Auto exhaust provides a lot
of humidity in the air to speed up the process.

Putting a block of wood under the battery helps keep it at air
temperature, which prevents condensation from forming.

And it isn't just batteries that suffer; any steel parts sitting
on the floor will rust a lot faster than the same parts sitting
on a shelf.

> maybe my wifes' an alien also.

So am I; I'm from England.  :-)

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 16:49:00 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Heads

Do you believe that Joe?  Of all the people on this list I hold your engine
knowledge to the highest regard.
_________

Thanks for the kind words.  I have not personally seen one, but others here
claim to have.  I defer to those with first-hand knowledge.  Of course, I
added the parenthetical statement specifically to _avoid_ another C-head
H/O thread!  ;-)

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 17:06:15 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Heads

> Do you believe that Joe?  Of all the people on this list I hold your engine
> knowledge to the highest regard.  I think the C head H/O's were a rumor

Tis not a rumor.  THE rumor about the "C" heads is that the 69 H/Os came
with them on some applications.  However, no irrefutable proof has
surfaced to sway my thinking about all 69 W-30 and H/O engines came with
"D" heads.  Not one shred of paperwork has EVER surfaced about this. 
Anybody know of any?

The 68 H/O "C" head was on A/C cars.  That's why there was a W-45 and
W-46 version in 68.  Depended if you had A/C or not.  All 69 H/O's had
one code, W-46.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 17:08:14 EST
From: RPTW32@aol.com
Subject: Re:  SB rear main seal

Rumor has it that an AMC crank has same size journals as SB Olds
but I haven't found the exact engine size from AMC lineup. Supposedly a
neoprene seal for AMc is available that will fit SB Olds.

Rgds,
Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 17:14:29 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: HEADS >>  Heat Riser Filling.

> Apparently not, as the one on the right
> side came loose. I took the car to the track and after the second pass a
> rattling started. Kinda like a bad water pump bearing. I ran it one more
> time and by the time I got home it sounded like I had marbles in my
> intake.
> Randy
> 
> 
I have seen (heard ! ) the same thing with a 455 that a buddy built.  We
couldn't really tell where the noise was coming from. At first we thought
something went amok in the valvetrain.
Took it apart and found the riser plugs down about 1/4 in.  We put them in
flush one week before.  

I think that they are a total waste of time.  Even when they are loose, they
probably do block off the flow.  

The lower melting point of zinc-alum has got to be it.  

The next time any of you are on the phone with Joe ( or that other
fellow..what's his name? ) could you please ask about why zinc-alum? and can
we melt down some old pistons to use ( I got enough of those for everybody
on the list to use Hee,Hee )
Or, if someone in CA can call Mondello local, please ask about that.

We ought to get a list together of Q's for Mondello Tech.

Later,
Donny
72 442
89 cutlass   

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 16:21:43 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: "rear end" prepping....

K,
Powder coating would be nice, shot-peening or magna-fluxing really not
needed, unless Karl needs a tax write off. Pretty mild steel, might bend
but don't usually crack. A nice semi gloss black, don't want a shiny rear
end. no pun intended.
Lou

- ----------
> From: KarlAune@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: "rear end" prepping....
> Date: Friday, November 20, 1998 3:02 PM
(snip)
> And yes, Karl fully intends to take it to "Reddy-strip" to have it
> electrolytically de-rusted.
> 
> Should Karl have it shot-peened or magna-fluxed as well?
> How about powder coated?

> Comments and flames invited.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 17:19:10 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Those Damn Blue Headlights

In a message dated 11/19/98 11:06:05 PM Central Standard Time,
zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu writes:

<< special bulbs for your car like these... forget what they are called...
 not just tinted or anything... but they are actually a different type of
 bul >>
....They are called "arc-discharge" lights...they are basically the same
reaction that is given off from using electric welders. Very concentrated and
VERY intense lights. I personally think that they are very good lights, but I
hate the blue rubber caps that you are seeing on the lowriders and rice
burners...these are just rubber caps, look like vacuum caps, that are placed
over conventional halogen bulbs.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 16:35:12 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: valve cover gaskets

Joe,
Used them, neoprene, (on all the drag cars), glued them to rocker covers
with, (what was that, camel snot?), covers came off every run for head
inspection and valve adj. Never changed them unless I got bored, ran them
for a season at a time, sometimes on different engines, never had an oil
leak, never used anything but clean surfaces. 
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
PS Had "Long wing type hold downs with 1/8 handmade flat stock extenders to
keep from denting covers''
- ----------
> From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: valve cover gaskets
> Date: Friday, November 20, 1998 3:05 PM
> =================
> 
> NEOPRENE is black rubber, yes?  Which costs less than cork, yes?  Which,
> to...novices, let's say...like me, implies that for some reason it must
be
> "not as good", yes?
> ____________
> 
> Hard to believe, isn't it.  I had the same reaction, but...
> 
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 17:33:13 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: HEADS >>  Heat Riser Filling.

In a message dated 11/20/98 7:03:36 AM Central Standard Time, CS81w350@aol.com
writes:

<< 
 On the same subject, I see that Edelbrock sells some cast iron plugs for the
 exhaust crossover for Oldsmobiles (#2733 page 64 of 1998 catalog).  I
wondered
 if anyone has tried these or has any opinions to share.  I plan on having
some
 #6 heads I got from a salvage yard worked over and putting them on this
 winter.  This is for a street driven car and so I didn't plan to block off
the
 heat riser, but I already have an electric choke, so I haven't ruled anything
 out yet.  These plugs probably don't give you all of the benefits of using
 molten metal (rounding out the exhaust runner), but they would be easier.
 Although red hot molten metal does sound like a lot more fun to play with. >>

....I have these plugs on my 65 330 with the RPM cam and intake kit...They are
effective as they need to be, given the fact that they are hammered into the
heat riser ports, and then the gaskets have NO heat riser provisions, further
sealing these ports. I also am running a Edelbrock Performer carb with
electric choke.
   The benefits are supposed to be cooler air/fuel mixture . Also a bolt-in
valley pan(mine had one factory) is a good idea, as it keeps the hot oil off
the bottom of the intake.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1614
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