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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1665


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, December 14 1998      Volume 01 : Number 1665



RE: What Happened with this? was: [Year One] Discounts Revisited. ..
Re: 68/69 Console
G body brakes
Re: G body brakes
Re: FARGO
Re: best place to buy battery sheet metal
Re: 700R4 tranny w/not shift to 3rd @WOT
Re: G body brakes
RE: head flow info
Re: 700R4 tranny w/not shift to 3rd @WOT
add ANOTHER to the fleet... and going to digest
Re: 700R4 tranny w/not shift to 3rd @WOT
Re: 68 442 convert found?
Re: 700R4 tranny w/not shift to 3rd @WOT
piston swap question
Re: 68 442 convert found? (long)
Re: 700R4 tranny w/not shift to 3rd @WOT
Re: crankshaft drilling/adaptor bearing
Re: PF-31 ???
Re: 68 442 convert found?
RE: head flow info
Re: 70-72 W-30 Hood Stripes
Re: crankshaft drilling/adaptor bearing
Re: piston swap question
Re: crankshaft drilling/adaptor bearing
Re: FARGO
Re: 68 442 convert found?
Re: 70-72 W-30 Hood Stripes
Re: piston swap question
Re: 8000 RPM 350 (long response)
Re: piston swap question
Radio-controlled Olds on E-bay
Heater Blower Relay (a thread off of "70 A/C Wiring")
Re: 68 442 convert found?
Timing Chain replacement
Re: crankshaft drilling/adaptor bearing
FS: non-AC pulleys 
Olds Items on E-bay.com
Re: 68 442 convert found?
Re: 68/69 Console
Re: engine assembly 101
Looking for the number to Engle Cams..
Re: best place to buy battery sheet metal
Re: 75 Olds Delta 88 Mirror
Re: Looking for the number to Engle Cams..
Re: 68/69 Console
Nice folks at work
Re: add ANOTHER to the fleet... and going to digest
Re: add ANOTHER to the fleet... and going to digest
Driving Lights suggestions needed
Re: Heater Blower Relay (a thread off of "70 A/C Wiring")
Re: piston swap question
Re: 75 Olds Delta 88 Mirror

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 13:24:58 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: What Happened with this? was: [Year One] Discounts Revisited. ..

Year One also has a 20% discount under code 'Lucky' I believe.  But it's
only until the 23rd.

> ----------
> From: 	George[SMTP:cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Monday, December 14, 1998 12:08 PM
> To: 	OldsML
> Subject: 	Re: What Happened with this? was: [Year One] Discounts
> Revisited...
> 
> 
> Yepp, I wondered too, what happened???
> 
> Well, just wanted to let you all know: They have a chrismas rebate of 10%
> at year one. Go to their homepage www.yearone.com to see details. (You 
> must refer to a number when ordering to get the discount.) Orders over 
> $800 will give another 5%. 
> 
> So long, George
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> '68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
> http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> On Mon, 14 Dec 1998 KarlAune@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > Did Karl miss something?
> > 
> > Whatever happened to.....
> > 
> > << To recap our last episode ;-) I have a contact and am working towards
> >  getting a club discount for members of the Oldsmobile Mailing List with
> >  Year One.  For those who don't know of them, Year One sells for the
> most
> >  part reproductions and some NOS parts for more than just Oldsmobiles.
> >>
> > 
> > Clayton???
> > 
> > Tell me you did not roll Lucille!
> > 
> > Hello?
> > 
> > (Coulda used a dicount a week and a half ago!)
> > 
> > SOM
> > 
> > &KA
> > (temporarily alcohol deficient)
> > 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 13:32:32 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 68/69 Console

What is the difference
between the shifter for the Jetaway and the TH350?
_______

Mike, as I think you've already ascertained, the basic shifter and console
were the same for both two and three speed automatics from 67-69.  The
differences are in the detent plate (which is a bolt-on addition to the
shifter mechanism) and the shift indicator bezel (PRNDL vs PRNDSL).  While
it does not effect function, the 69 bezels are cosmetically different in
that they say PARK/LOCK instead of just PARK.  The detent plate can be
removed from the shifter mechanism, but unfortunately you'll likely never
find a replacement (unless it already has a shifter attached to it).  As
others have noted, you can grind your 2 speed detent plate to accommodate
the three speed's detent locations.

Note also that I suspect the bracket on the transmission that holds the
shifter cable housing (the one that the cable sheath clips to, not the one
that moves with the cable) will likely be different between the Junkaway
and the TH350.  I do know that the TH350 and TH400 brackets are different.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 10:54:25 -0800 (PST)
From: Dean Schreuder <das1472@yahoo.com>
Subject: G body brakes

I've read quit a few things on upgrading G-body front disc brakes with
bigger F-body 11" or 12" brakes. And of course, it's not just an easy
swap, there is a lot of parts that have to be changed with them too!
My question is, did ALL G-BODY GM CARS COME WITH WIMPY BRAKES????? Did
GM ever produce G-body cars with 11" or 12" brakes that would be an
easy swap to any other G-body with 10" brakes???? You would think they
would put big heavy duty brakes on their 442's,Monte SS's, and Buick
GN's. Does any one know if this might be true, or did GM put wimpy
brakes on ALL G-bodies????? By the way, I AM a proud owner of a '79
Olds Cutlass........but with the wimpy brakes of course!!



 
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 14:47:01 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: G body brakes

In a message dated 12/14/98 10:59:37 AM Pacific Standard Time,
das1472@yahoo.com writes:

<< I've read quit a few things on upgrading G-body front disc brakes with
 bigger F-body 11" or 12" brakes. And of course, it's not just an easy
 swap, there is a lot of parts that have to be changed with them too!
 My question is, did ALL G-BODY GM CARS COME WITH WIMPY BRAKES????? Did
 GM ever produce G-body cars with 11" or 12" brakes that would be an
 easy swap to any other G-body with 10" brakes???? You would think they
 would put big heavy duty brakes on their 442's,Monte SS's, and Buick
 GN's. Does any one know if this might be true, or did GM put wimpy
 brakes on ALL G-bodies????? By the way, I AM a proud owner of a '79
 Olds Cutlass........but with the wimpy brakes of course!! >>

     People have complaints about their G-body brakes? My '86 Cutlass Salon
stops as good as any car without ABS in my opinion. I've been hit in the rear
by a newer car that couldn't stop as fast to prove it, good or bad. As long as
I apply them correctly, they will stop me quite well...if I stand on them, all
wheels will lock and I will skid, but that's to be expected I guess.   Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 13:53:56 -0600
From: bloom9@juno.com (C K)
Subject: Re: FARGO

>>
>> *sigh* I hate to interupt the list like this, but I saw the movie 
>when
>> it first came out. Still haven't seen the whole thing. I am from
>> Fargo, North Dakota. I know of all the areas where they shot that
>> movie. BUT, we do not talk like they have us talking! I don't know
>> where they got that accent from, but in my opinion, it makes us all
>> look stupid up here. Just PLEASE, don't judge Fargoan's because of
>> this movie! We do not talk like that "Don'tchya know eh?"
>
>> Del
>
><snip>
>
>You betcha
>
>Mark Hahn

"ya darn tootin' "     :-p

Fred Kemp
'67 442, Cutlass S, Cutlass


___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:54:32 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: best place to buy battery sheet metal

>
>
>_______________++++++++++++++________________
>|  *********
>|   *******
>| {---------}
>| { BATTERY }
>| {---------}
>|
>

yup, thats a core support :(

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:57:12 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: 700R4 tranny w/not shift to 3rd @WOT

At 12:08 PM 12/14/98 -0500, you wrote:
>This is driving me crazy. It is a 87 tranny only at WOT it will not shift to
>third. 

are you sure it is 3rd?
700r4's WILL NOT shift into 4th (overdrive ) at WOT

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 11:58:25 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: G body brakes

< I've read quit a few things on upgrading G-body front disc brakes with
> bigger F-body 11" or 12" brakes. And of course, it's not just an easy
> swap, there is a lot of parts that have to be changed with them too!
> My question is, did ALL G-BODY GM CARS COME WITH WIMPY BRAKES????? 

what about the G-body wagons?
Wagons ussually have heavier brakes

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 12:04:38 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: head flow info

Thi this only for 403's.

>From what I've come to learn, the Edelbrock Aluminum #6051 BB heads 
only
>require the head bolt holes drilled out to 1/2" to be utilized on the 
SB. At
>least that's what is required for 403 SB usage.


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 15:22:38 -0500
From: tonwald@eta.k12.mn.us (Tony Waldner)
Subject: Re: 700R4 tranny w/not shift to 3rd @WOT

>are you sure it is 3rd?
>700r4's WILL NOT shift into 4th (overdrive ) at WOT


My 87 Trans Am GTA shifted into OD at 128 MPH at WOT.

I also had the exact same problem with it staying in 2nd at WOT. It cost me
a lot of races.  I had to get it into 3rd by letting off of the pedal.
Drove me nuts. I had the tranny o'hauled and it still did it!  But only
after it warmed up.  I am guessing a sticky valve body. When I took it to
the strip I disconnected the Throttle Pressure cable and shifted manually.
Try that and see if that works for you.


Tony

70 442 W-30
70 442 W-30 convert
70 Toro GT W-34
65 Jetstar 88 w/4-speed
84 Hurst Olds
85 Cutlass Salon 455 Drag Racer
92 Seville STS

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 15:25:08 -0500 (EST)
From: zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu
Subject: add ANOTHER to the fleet... and going to digest

Hello all...

Just had to tell everybody about my latest purchase... actually... it's
not an Oldsmobile... well... actually not even GM... not even a CAR!!!!  I
am now the proud owner of a 1962 Ford F100 Fleetside... 200 bucks worth...
couldn't resist... I'm thinking PARTS HAULER ;-)  It's powered by the
race-bred indy inspired... high output Ford 300 inline 6 banger ;-)  It's
got exactly the options I like on a truck... 3 spd granny gear on
the collumn... manual brakes... manual windows... manual steering... NO
door locks... only power accessories are the lights and the windshield
wiper (singular)... IOW... nothing to go wrong!  I'm not kidding when I
say FLEET either... I'm up to 6 cars now!

Also wanted to tell everybody that I'm going to digest only later today...
schools slowly winding down now... and I won't have much access to my
e-mail soon (guess I'll just have to watch Demolition Man over and over
and over... in my spare time).




    |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
   /|\       Clayton Pierce,
  / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
 |  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
 |  |  |     
 |  |  |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
 | / \ |     
 |/   \|     1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
  \   /         (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
   \ /          http://www.442.com/pierce.html
    |        1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass Brougham
		(parts car) (307, 4bbl, TH350, 2.14:1, 90k miles)
	     1980 Rover 3500 SD1
	        (215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/othercars.html
     	     1979 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
		(260 V8, 2bbl, TH350)
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/79cutlass.html
	     1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
		(389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/bonneville.html
	     1962 Ford F100 Fleetside
		(300, 1bbl, 3spd)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 15:38:16 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: 700R4 tranny w/not shift to 3rd @WOT

In a message dated 12/14/98 3:25:24 PM Eastern Standard Time,
tonwald@eta.k12.mn.us writes:

<< My 87 Trans Am GTA shifted into OD at 128 MPH at WOT.
 
 I also had the exact same problem with it staying in 2nd at WOT. It cost me
 a lot of races.  I had to get it into 3rd by letting off of the pedal.
 Drove me nuts. I had the tranny o'hauled and it still did it!  But only
 after it warmed up.  I am guessing a sticky valve body. When I took it to
 the strip I disconnected the Throttle Pressure cable and shifted manually.
 Try that and see if that works for you. >>

these cars had a 2004r transmissions, and all 2004r transmissions shift into
overdrive at wot.  700r4's  dont shift into overdrive at wot. well, most
700r4s, that is.
jeremy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 12:39:28 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 68 442 convert found?

>It has been well documented that on the 68-69 cars, all 442s carried 
body
>data plates with Cutlass numbers, so don't worry about it.  You need to 
go
>by the VIN to prove it's a 442.  The VIN for a 68 442 convert must 
start
>out 344678..., otherwise it's not legit.


I looked at the vin and title yesterday and it started with 344.  What 
would you think this car is worth in the type of shape it is in.  It has 
been sitting for some time.  Last licensed in 85.  The top is gone, just 
the frame is left.  The interior in beyond repair, my guess from years 
of rain on it.  The floors are solid for the most part. The front pass 
side has a few rust holes.  The trunk is solid.  The body is in fair 
shape a little repair needed. The doors shut perfectly, no sags. The dog 
house is in pieces, but mostly complete(needs grill).  The engine is 
partly disassembled.  The heads and intake are off. Has E heads not C 
heads.  Original block, 4 speed trans, 12 bolt rear. It has the gages 
and tac Hurst 442 shifter, power roof (standard option?) and power 
trunk. The only thing missing is the console. Needs a lot of work. What 
does everyone think.  I just have a feeling if I don't buy it I will 
regret it.   Thanks for the help guys.  

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 14:00:04 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 700R4 tranny w/not shift to 3rd @WOT

Uhh, guys, I read once that the earlier 700s (and that includes '87 for some
reason) had a problematic valve-body  as someone already mentioned.  I
believe that it was the cause of some of these so called "missed shifts" and
even some durability problems related to this.  I think that one of the Car
Crafts from not long ago had a article on the this and how to fix it.  I
don't really remember which article but maybe I can locate it.  If I find
it, I can scan it and e-mail it to anyone.  This may be what is your
problem.  When I asked the local tranny shop about building me a 700 to put
behind my 455, they said that only core they would use would be from a '89
and up Camaro/Corvette or a big truck.  Igor.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)

P.S.   Also, at that shop a guy had a early to mid '80s Caprice 2-door
(looked dead stock even more so then my Delta.)  The only hint was moderate
size tires, nice wheels and a 3" exhaust tips coming from the sides but not
obvious.  He had 3.73s and a 502 502HP crate motor and a TH700 behind it.
He said that 130 MPH + was very easy with the 700 (so I assume OD and WOT,
maybe some don't shift though).



>This is driving me crazy. It is a 87 tranny only at WOT it will not shift
to
>third. It does not matter if i leave it in drive, overdrive,or manually
shift
>it up. The only way it shifts is if i let my foot off the gas rpms drop
then
>it shifts, sometimes i have to pump it 2x's. During normal driving it
shifts
>fine. This is killing my times at the track :(. I have adjusted the TV
cable
>to the stock specs and also moved it everywhich way.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 16:08:09 -0500
From: "Ken" <olds442@en.com>
Subject: piston swap question

I have about 15 1/4 mile passes and about 50 miles driving on my 455 Olds.
I'm going to scrap the +.030 TRW L2323 in favor of a set of +.030 Arias flat
tops.  Question is can I just take the old pistons out and put the new ones
in with a new set of rings, or do I need to disassemble the whole thing and
have it honed.

Thanks,
Ken

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 15:06:16 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: 68 442 convert found? (long)

> I looked at the vin and title yesterday and it started with 344.  What 
> would you think this car is worth in the type of shape it is in.  It has 
> been sitting for some time.  Last licensed in 85.  The top is gone, just 
> the frame is left.  The interior in beyond repair, my guess from years 
> of rain on it.  The floors are solid for the most part. The front pass 
> side has a few rust holes.  The trunk is solid.  The body is in fair 
> shape a little repair needed. The doors shut perfectly, no sags. The dog 
> house is in pieces, but mostly complete(needs grill).  The engine is 
> partly disassembled.  The heads and intake are off. Has E heads not C 
> heads.  Original block, 4 speed trans, 12 bolt rear. It has the gages 
> and tac Hurst 442 shifter, power roof (standard option?) and power 
> trunk. The only thing missing is the console. Needs a lot of work. What 
> does everyone think.  I just have a feeling if I don't buy it I will 
> regret it.   Thanks for the help guys.  

Jason, 

It looks as if you have found a lovable piece of junk just like I did... 
well my feelings for my care differ, I have to keep myself motivated a 
lot that I don't freak out and just call the junkjard and sometimes I 
love it a lot... (Go to my website to get an impression...)

If you have about 6 to 8 grand for a decent restoration and a garage 
where you can work in year round and you have lotsa motivation, then do 
it. Yes, if you don't buy the car you will regret it but only because you 
don't know what mess it would have brought you in. I only have a 68 
cutlass s wich is less desirable then a 442 but these figures are the 
same for both. I am recently working on my car and have gotten an idea 
what I went into, not only financially...

Well, to back up my cost estimate here some figures:

Paint job / body work                         2500
Engine rebuilt                                1500
New interior (seat covers, panels, seat foam, 
carpet, dash refurbish)                       1200
New top installed plus getting hydraulics ok   800
Suspension parts (bushings, bearings, shocks)  300
Tranny rebuilt                                 200
Tires, Rims refurbish                          500
Disc Brake conversion                          200
Nicknacks that will miss (can't imagine how
many small things miss, maybe this number
must be 200% more!)     		       500
                                             ======
TOTAL                                         7700
   	
I don't want to discourage you totally. Of course after you have done 
all this work and spent this money you will have a top car. You will know 
what has been done to it and you are sure that all the things you think are 
important (eg. originality, good machine work, good paint job) are done 
the way you want it. Well, just make sure that you always are aware of 
the fact that restoring a car like that is a hobby. You really must be 
into it and you must be aware that you will spend more money then you 
will ever get for the car when you want to sell it. 

But be also aware of the fact, that the car will be a great ride, much 
nicer then a new convertible for 15 grand and much cheaper still. Also 
you got to know that this car will NOT be worth only half of what you 
invested once you have driven it some years (like the new 15k convertible...)

Just some thoughts that may help you in your decision. By the way, my car 
ran till 92 and I still wonder how that was possible after I took the 
engine apart. Scary scary...

Regards, and Good Luck, 

George


- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 16:11:58 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com

Subject: Re: 700R4 tranny w/not shift to 3rd @WOT

In a message dated 12/14/98 1:05:12 PM Pacific Standard Time, igor455@home.com
writes:

<< Uhh, guys, I read once that the earlier 700s (and that includes '87 for
some
 reason) had a problematic valve-body  as someone already mentioned.  I
 believe that it was the cause of some of these so called "missed shifts" and
 even some durability problems related to this.  I think that one of the Car
 Crafts from not long ago had a article on the this and how to fix it.  I
 don't really remember which article but maybe I can locate it.  If I find
 it, I can scan it and e-mail it to anyone.  This may be what is your
 problem.  When I asked the local tranny shop about building me a 700 to put
 behind my 455, they said that only core they would use would be from a '89
 and up Camaro/Corvette or a big truck.  Igor. >>


     You can buy a valve(?) from Jegs that changes WOT kickdown from 1/2
throttle to 3/4 throttle, or you can find some of the specific internals from
vehicles like the later Corvettes...they may not kickdown at all. These are
available through any good trans shop. Gm had the kickdown for a reason
though...OD is the weakest gear. 
      Supposedly the '88 up 700's are the best. Anything older than '85 is
supposedly the worst. Most, if not all internals can be replaced in the older
ones to bring them up to more current strength levels. If you go wrecking yard
hopping for one, look for ones that have the  large half circle casting mark
on the passenger side. These are, according to the trans shop, strengthened,
definately later model trans. I think it passes right around the cooler
fittings. By the way, has anybody found an Olds bolt pattern 700R4 yet? Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 16:12:40 -0500
From: "Ken" <olds442@en.com>
Subject: Re: crankshaft drilling/adaptor bearing

>This might sound like a stupid question, but what is this adapter pilot
>bearing you guys are talking about?  Do you mean you can run a 4spd on an
>Olds with an automatic crank without drilling? How does it go on? Where can
>I get one? How much?
>


There was one in my 67 442.  You cut like 1/2 inch off your transmission
input shaft and install an oil impregnated brass bushing.  The bushing looks
like a very thick fender washer. The whole thing seems kinda hack to me, but
it works fine.  Mondello sells the bushing,  I'm sure it isn't more than
afew dollars.

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 16:16:40 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: PF-31 ???

Mark

        DO it if you can still get them. They have a higher bypass pressure in
them. You filter your oil more with one of those.

Jim 

At 01:03 PM 12/14/98 , you wrote:
>
>List,
>
>                Any opinions on using the AMC oil filter
>on Oldsmobile Engines.....PF-31 ???
>
>
>
>The General

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 14:31:13 -0700
From: karoe@us.ibm.com
Subject: Re: 68 442 convert found?

Jason wrote:

>I looked at the vin and title yesterday and it started with 344.  What
>would you think this car is worth in the type of shape it is in.  It has
>been sitting for some time.  Last licensed in 85.  The top is gone, just
>the frame is left.  The interior in beyond repair, my guess from years
>of rain on it.  The floors are solid for the most part. The front pass
>side has a few rust holes.  The trunk is solid.  The body is in fair
>shape a little repair needed. The doors shut perfectly, no sags. The dog
>house is in pieces, but mostly complete(needs grill).  The engine is
>partly disassembled.  The heads and intake are off. Has E heads not C
>heads.  Original block, 4 speed trans, 12 bolt rear. It has the gages
>and tac Hurst 442 shifter, power roof (standard option?) and power
>trunk. The only thing missing is the console. Needs a lot of work.
__________________________________________________________________________
Pwr top is std, trunk not. Are you sure bout the block ? E heads are 1970
455 pieces, '68 saw
the C headed 400 (exept the H/O right ?).
Considered one in similar shape last week. '68 442 vert, 4sp., a/c. non
match 455, solid metal.
The asking price was $4500. Input was that was in the "fair price"
category, but overwhelmingly
the response was You have to decide how much You want the car and how much
of a project You
want to entertain, can handle, have storage for.....
Im also interested to see others responses here.
Kyle.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 13:32:26 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: head flow info

This is only for 403's.  Sorry about the sorry spelling on the first 
one.
>
>>From what I've come to learn, the Edelbrock Aluminum #6051 BB heads 
>only
>>require the head bolt holes drilled out to 1/2" to be utilized on the 
>SB. At
>>least that's what is required for 403 SB usage.


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 13:33:16 PST
From: "scott slater" <slater442w30@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 70-72 W-30 Hood Stripes

Order a year one catalog.  I don't know the adress but I recently saw 
the catalog at a friends house.  Someone out there should know the 
adress.



______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 16:37:54 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: crankshaft drilling/adaptor bearing

Ken,
You know what. About 2 1/2 years ago I bought a used '67 Muncie M21 tranny
for a '74 Nova SS I was redoing. When I got it done I drove it a few months
till I started getting some nasty rattles and vibrations originating at the
trans. So I took out the 4spd and threw in a TH350 in a weekend because it
was my daily driver. Anyhow, I came to realize there was about 1/2 inch
(almost exactly) lopped of the end of the input shaft. (after comparing it
with a saginaw I have). The vibration was more than likely due to the fact
the input shaft wasn't fully engaging the pilot in my SBC. I still have
this tranny and after what you said here I wonder if it was already
modified to work with an Olds adapter bushing. My eyebrows are raised...

Thanks

Ed 
The Omega Man

'74 Omega coupe 455/4sd 12bolt 4.10
'74 Omega hatchback 455/auto


By the way, I take it that bushing is made to mate with an automatic crank
, right?????????




- ----------------------------------------------------------



At 04:12 PM 12/14/98 -0500, you wrote:
>
>
>>This might sound like a stupid question, but what is this adapter pilot
>>bearing you guys are talking about?  Do you mean you can run a 4spd on an
>>Olds with an automatic crank without drilling? How does it go on? Where can
>>I get one? How much?
>>
>
>
>There was one in my 67 442.  You cut like 1/2 inch off your transmission
>input shaft and install an oil impregnated brass bushing.  The bushing looks
>like a very thick fender washer. The whole thing seems kinda hack to me, but
>it works fine.  Mondello sells the bushing,  I'm sure it isn't more than
>afew dollars.
>
>Ken
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 14:42:10 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: piston swap question

Question is can I just take the old pistons out and put the new ones
>in with a new set of rings, or do I need to disassemble the whole thing and
>have it honed.


You have to hone so that your new rings will seat.  Without honing, the blow
by will be high.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 16:47:41 -0500
From: "Ken" <olds442@en.com>
Subject: Re: crankshaft drilling/adaptor bearing

>
>
>By the way, I take it that bushing is made to mate with an automatic crank
>, right?????????

Yeah, the bushing fits into the spot the torque converter hub would normally
rest..

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 16:47:36 EST
From: DrkSole96@aol.com
Subject: Re: FARGO

In a message dated 98-12-14 09:44:38 EST, you write:

<< *sigh* I hate to interupt the list like this, but I saw the movie when
 it first came out. Still haven't seen the whole thing. I am from
 Fargo, North Dakota. I know of all the areas where they shot that
 movie. BUT, we do not talk like they have us talking! I don't know
 where they got that accent from, but in my opinion, it makes us all
 look stupid up here. Just PLEASE, don't judge Fargoan's because of
 this movie! We do not talk like that "Don'tchya know eh?"
 
 Del 
 == >>

I used to work for a tele-survey company, we did a project where we called all
over Canada, and I did encounter that accent a lot.  Maybe they were looking
too far south.

DrkSole96
73 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 16:49:03 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 68 442 convert found?

...What would you think this car is worth in the type of shape it is in...
________

As I've been going through just such a project with my 66 442 convert
(stored outside for over 10 years with a torn up top), all I can say is
that it will cost you significantly more to get this car roadworthy than
you can possibly imagine.  The exposure of the interior to the elements
leads to the following:

Pivot points in the top will likely be frozen.  The header bow will almost
certainly be rusted. In my case, it was cheaper for me to buy an additional
convertible parts car than to replace the unuseable parts individually.

Piston shafts on the hydraulic cylinders will be rusted and pitted,
requiring new cylinders.  It's also likely that the pump is shot.

Have you pulled the seats out and looked under them?  Expect to find
additional rust under the back seat.  There's now a patch panel available
for this part of the floor for 68-72 A-body converts, but that's just
additional cost for you.  Also, expect to find the entire floor riddled
with rust pinholes.  Mine looked fine until I pulled the carpet and removed
all the rust scale on the floorpan.  Swiss cheese.

Expect the seat frames to be rusted, meaning you'll need new seat frames in
addition to the upholstery.

Are all the knobs/controls on the dash and steering column rusted or
corroded?  Again, you'll need to find all these little parts and replace
them

Expect to find the inner sheet metal panels (inside of the doors and
quarters, underside of the dash) heavily surface rusted.  Worse, expect to
find corrosion in the electrical connectors under the dash.  You'll either
need to get a new harness or expect to spend time completely cleaning and
refurbishing the old one.

Do you think that rally pac still works after exposure to the elements?

I don't mean to rain on your parade, but I'm one of the worst optimists
when it comes to assessing cars in this condition (in other words, I've
wasted a significant amount of my own money on cars like this).  If you
really must buy this car, please take a knowledgeable but disinterested
friend with you to honestly assess the car.  Depending on how much of the
work you can do yourself, it will almost certainly not be a cost effective
project.  What usually happens is that the car gets disassembled, and once
the true condition and costs of restoration become known, the project gets
scrapped.  If you decide you can't live without it, at least get it at a
good price; I'd guess something well under $1000, and probably under $500
would be fair for a car in this condition.  Just make sure you buy it with
your eyes open.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 14:53:09 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: 70-72 W-30 Hood Stripes

Year One is at: http://www.Yearone.com/index.htm  The catalogue costs $5.00
(US) but it's worth it, plus you get the $7.50 (US) back on your first order.

scott slater wrote:
> 
> Order a year one catalog.  I don't know the adress but I recently saw
> the catalog at a friends house.  Someone out there should know the
> adress.<snip>
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 16:56:30 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: piston swap question

In a message dated 12/14/98 1:47:07 PM Pacific Standard Time, igor455@home.com
writes:

<< You have to hone so that your new rings will seat.  Without honing, the
blow
 by will be high. >>

     You can supposedly get away with not rehoning if you can distinctly see
the previous hone marks. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 16:54:27 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: 8000 RPM 350 (long response)

In a message dated 12/13/98 11:00:32 PM Central Standard Time,
shang@connect.net writes:

<< 
 I am not expert, but I do know how my car performs, and I understand
 what impact bore and stroke have on an engine. I think we should study
 the small-block Olds more closely and re-examine the generic "it's an
 Olds motor, so therefore it is a torque monster" stereo-type. I think
 anyone with a W-31 350 certainly can tell you that that motor is NOT
 making the majority of it's power in the lower RPM range, especially
 with 3.91 gears.
 
 Small-block owner's repond and let us know where you feel your motor is
 making the most power.
  >>


   I can say ...without a doubt...that my semi-built 330 doesn't do squat
below around 2800-3000rpm. It does,however, scream (wether for mercy, or for
more?) above 4500. It has seen rev's in excess of 6000rpm, but since it is a
stock bottom-end with 77,000 miles on it I am not gonna tepmt fate till I have
the 455nitrous motor finished...then I just might see what rpm's are really
attainable. I bet I can rev it to 7500 with the stock valvetrain ...LOL...any
takers?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 14:56:56 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: piston swap question

Uh, if your going to "scrap" the TRW's then I know a lot of people who would
give them a good home;)

Sorry, I just found the term "scrap" funny since I just paid $400 for a set
with 50 miles less on them:(

Real dumb question, couldn't you just re-use the rings?

Ken wrote:
> 
> I have about 15 1/4 mile passes and about 50 miles driving on my 455 Olds.
> I'm going to scrap the +.030 TRW L2323 in favor of a set of +.030 Arias flat
> tops.  Question is can I just take the old pistons out and put the new ones
> in with a new set of rings, or do I need to disassemble the whole thing and
> have it honed.
> 
> Thanks,
> Ken

- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 14:08:16 -0800
From: "Mike Jones" <mike@gleep.com>
Subject: Radio-controlled Olds on E-bay

	Thought this might be of some interest to some of us olds fanatics out
there.  Kinda pricy though.
	Looks like a '57 red 4 door. 

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=48017238

RADIO CONTROLLED OLDSMOBILE, MISSING CONTROLLER AND
ANTENNA. GREAT CONDITION. MEASURES 14"X 6 1/2". BATTERY
COMPARTMENT NOT CORRODED. BUYER PAYS SHIPPING. WILL HOLD
ITEM FOR TEN DAYS AFTER BIDDING STOPS. THE ONLY MARKS I COULD
FIND ON THIS CAR, ARE ON THE REAR TAIL PLATE: PATENTS APPLIED FOR
IN US-514190, CANADA, GREAT BRITAIN, GERMANY. TRADE MARK -
MODERN TOYS - JAPAN. I'M NOT SURE WHAT YEAR THE CAR WAS MADE. 

Mike Jones
'78 Delta 88 (350/TH350/102k)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 17:14:41 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: Heater Blower Relay (a thread off of "70 A/C Wiring")

Hi Andy and "the list",

Saw your post about the high-speed blower bypass relay.

I've customized my '72 Cutlass and removed the AC.  Realizing that I
couldn't install a non-AC heater box because of the different holes in the
firewall I took the AC box sliced off the front "nose" so that the box
stood off the firewall about 3.25" and then neatly fiber glassed a flat
piece over the gapping hole.  I left the resistor and relay alone.

Now I'm completely rewiring the entire car.  Yesterday I looked into
simplifying the heater wiring.  I looked in both the "illustrated" and the
"by the numbers" parts books and found that the blower motor is the same
for the AC and non AC cars.

According to the wiring diagram on non AC cars there is no relay.  All
current goes through the fan switch at the heater control and it has
OFF-LO-MED-HIGH positions.  On the other hand the fan switch for the AC
cars has LOW-MED-MED-HIGH and the HIGH position runs a the relay which
kicks the current to come over directly from the + junction block.  The AC
car fan shuts off only when the HEAT-DEF-VENT-NORMAL-MAX control lever is
moved to OFF.

I've been puzzling about the possibility of replacing the AC switch with a
non AC switch as well as using the non AC resistor and ditching the blower
relay.

Your point about diverting the high current draw away from the switch makes
sense.

However, I wonder.

Is the non AC switch heavier duty than the AC so that it can take the
higher current draw?

If not and it is of basically the same gauge material then I'm assuming
there must another reason the EEs designed the AC this way.  I wouldn't
think they'd go to all that extra trouble and expense unless there was a
really good reason.

Something must be different, but as I look at the component and wiring
diagram I can't see any reason other than too high of a current draw.
Which doesn't seem to make sense because the non AC cars don't do it this
way.

I'm trying to reduce any useless clutter in the engine compartment so any
help with understanding this dilemma would greatly appreciated,

jp

Jonathan Parke
mailto:jonparke@together.net

'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
(near the end of a 5 year frame off customization)

'60 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spider Veloce
(completely in pieces, perfect body, long term restoration)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 17:07:50 EST
From: SpeedCom@aol.com
Subject: Re: 68 442 convert found?

In a message dated 12/14/98
 3:<BR57:<BR00 PM Central Standard Ti, Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM writes:>  What
usually happens is that the car gets disassembled, and once
the true condition and costs of restoration become known, the project gets
scrapped. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.

Glad someone told him that. I've done it three times with wooden sailboats and
three times with wooden runabouts. It can be very painful to realize that your
dream is dissolving in front of your eyes and taking a part of your family's
resources with it. :-(

Carron

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 16:21:16 -0600
From: David Brown <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Timing Chain replacement

Someone posted about a week ago stating that putting an aftermarket timing
chain on a factory cam was asking for trouble. In effect, the factory or
OEM style timing sets were different from aftermarket roller chains.

Having just gone through a chain replacement on a factory cam, all I can
say is BULLS**T!!, and please prove me wrong! I'm taking this stand because
I hate mis-information. I tried contacting the poster a day or so later,
but I've received no response to my e-mail, although they have since posted
to the list. Anyways, I have a picture of three timing sets, all with dots,
keyways and cam dowel pins in the same place. One OEM, another OEM
replacement, another double roller. All the same.

I used a -4/0/+4 double roller timing set. I think it is a Cloyes - I
bought it from Dave Smith. The crank gear has -4, 0 and +4 keyways. When I
originally installed the set, I mistook the 0 mark for the crank gear "dot"
because the 0 was on the same surface of the crank gear as the original
gear. I also forgot to compare one gear to the other, to see if there were
any differences I should think about before installing the set. How many
times have I learned that?

Well, I drove the car for about 500 miles and it kind of drove like a
delivery truck with a steep gear and straws for intake ports. Power to 2500
RPM, but couldn't go much higher, and at 2700 it was out of power. Vacuum
was also down a little and the trans shifted at a higher RPM, and at 2500
RPM wouldn't shift at all. The net effect was I had retarded the valve
timing a bit.

That's all fixed now that I tore it apart and did the job again. Good
power, decent vacuum, shifts properly, and power above 3000 RPM. Yep,
learned a lot, and have lots of stuff to include in the FAQ on timing chain
replacement. I hope this helps someone out.

My workstation puked over the weekend, so it might take me a while to get
back to people.
- -- 
David Brown  dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 17:01:11 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: crankshaft drilling/adaptor bearing

In a message dated 12/14/98 11:08:31 AM Central Standard Time, pbrill1@uic.edu
writes:

<< One more time.  Does anyone know of a good machine shop in the Chicago
 area that would accurately drill a pilot bearing input in my 425 crank?
 
 If not, does anyone have any experience with the adaptor bearing?
 
 The engine is going in this spring/summer, so I'll be casually putting
 it back together during the first 3-4 months of '99.
  >>


   I have a friend with a 65 442 ...he had his 455 crank drilled for a chevy
pilot bearing...it was less exspansive to buy and much more plentiful...just a
thought
Collyn Eastham 
65 Cutlass
65 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 14:20:06 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: FS: non-AC pulleys 

I have a set of non AC pulleys (large waterpump,small crank pulley).
they are 2 groove pulleys. Came out of a 73 cutlass, should fit any
 small block Olds.
$30

also have a 68-72 power steering bracket (new)
$20

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 14:39:18 -0800
From: "Mike Jones" <mike@gleep.com>
Subject: Olds Items on E-bay.com

	Thought I'd just lump some items together that look interesting,
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=48693667

NOS 73 OLDSMOBILE 442 LEFT GRILLE

THIS IS THE LEFT LIDE NOS GRILLE FOR THE 73 442. I ONLY HAVE
ONE.MONEY ORDER ONLY WINNER PAYES 10.00 SHIPPING UPS. GOOD
LUCK . 

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=48730471

1966 Oldsmobile Toronado

1966 Oldmobile Toronado. Second owner. All original and complete. In good
condition.
Needs paint and some interior work. Please e-mail with any questions. I can
e-mail other
pics if needed.    

(pics look decent, wish I had the cash!)

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=48971405

Oldsmobile Vistacruiser Roof Glass

Tinted ROOF GLASS for Olds VISTACRUISER wagon or BUICK SPORTWAGON. 3
pieces removed from '69 vista cruiser. Buyer pays shipping & insurance.
Personal checks
& money orders OK. (Will hold shipping until personal check clears.) 

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=49094134

1962 Oldsmobile Factory Service Manual

1962 Oldsmobile Factory Service Manual 10 7/8 x 8 1/2 x 3/4
inches.condition-some soiling and wear (was actually used in a garage).
Purchaser pays $3.75 postage and handling in USA.May be returned in
seven days for any reason.Virginia resident add 4.5% sales tax.

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=49167041

1970 OLDSMOBILE Shop Manual - All models 

1970 Oldsmobile original service manual
Covers all models including 4-4-2. Coverage of chassis, engine,
transmission. Everything but the sheet metal.
Includes wiring diagrams & chapter on A/C. - See PHOTO.
Please E-mail us if you have any questions regarding the condition or
content of this
manual.
This is an original factory issue manual, NOT a reprint or
Chilton/Clymer/Haynes/Motors/Etc.
Excellent condition. Size approximately 8½ x 11", 1½" thick. 
*** Open to U.S. bidders only. *** - If you don't live in one of the 50
United States, DON'T BID!
Buyer pays $4.95 for shipping and handling. Insurance is extra. Combine
bids to reduce
shipping costs. 

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=49162768

New Crower cam,springs,lifters -Oldsmobile

New in box Crower hydraulic cam for Oldsmobile 350-455.Low to mid range cam
,part#56262.Duration intake=211@.050/exhaust=220@.050. Lift intake=.461
exhaust=.486.Rpm range=1800-5000,redline=6000+. Also included are anew set
of
matching Crower valve springs, new Sealed Power lifters. Buyer pays
shipping,money
orders/cashiers checks accepted.Good luck! 

(I was going to hold said item for myself due to the price only being $30,
but then I noticed the reserve hadn't been met yet.)

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=48359434

1959-62 OLDSMOBILE, ROCHESTER 2bbl CARBURETOR

This item is a Rochester 2 Jet 2bbl carburetor. It is part #7015052. It was
standard on
1959 to 1962 Oldsmobile V-8, except F-85. It is complete and in Excellent
Condition,
but naturally should be cleaned and rebuilt before being installed. Please
feel free to
email me with any questions. Buyer pays shipping and handling. N.Y.
residents add 8%
sales tax. Thanks and Good Luck. 

Allright, I think that's enough spam for today
 
Mike Jones
'78 Delta 88
(350/TH350/102K)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 14:43:09 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 68 442 convert found?

No you are not the bearer of bad news.  I just need an honest opinion. 
The header panel is very rusted, I was wondering about the convert top I 
have never worked on one before. I was also wondering about the wiring 
harness and rally pac.  It is sad to see a great car like this in this 
kind of shape.  Thank you for being the voice of reason. 






______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 16:42:26 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 68/69 Console

Joe (Olds Guru),
Thanks for the info.  Now get this.  Ken Snyder has a 
TH350 shifter and needs a Jetaway detent plate for
his race car.  We've struck a mutually beneficial deal
to swap detent plates and the best part is we both 
found the parts we thought we'd never find.  You've
got to love this list!  BTW might as well pump you for
info.  Do you know of anyplace that sells the indicator
bezel for the 69?  Once again thanks for help.

Mike B 

> The detent plate can be
>removed from the shifter mechanism, but unfortunately you'll likely never
>find a replacement (unless it already has a shifter attached to it).  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 16:55:58 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: engine assembly 101

Kind of a rule of thumb, .003 to .00325 end gap, per inch of bore diameter,
stagger the gaps on each piston. This on one piece rings. Some people run
them a little tighter. HP different is minimal. Don't want them to butt
together when engine gets  very hot.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net


- ----------
> From: Mr57olds@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: engine assembly 101
> Date: Sunday, December 13, 1998 7:56 PM
> If one side of ring is not marked with word "top", "up", or dot then the
> inside bevel goes up.  If there is an outside bevel (rare) then it goes
down.
> This applies to all compression rings.   As for gap, you need enough to
keep
> from ever butting the ends of rings.  As the rings heat up the end gap
gets
> less.  .012 should be minimum for top and .010 for 2nd rings.  You will
never
> see a difference at .017.   Most important!!!  Make sure bores are clean
prior
> to installing pistons and rings.
> Mr57olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 17:54:42 -0500
From: "Ken" <olds442@en.com>
Subject: Looking for the number to Engle Cams..

Anyone got the telephone number to Engle Cams?

Thanks,
Ken

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 16:59:35 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: best place to buy battery sheet metal

>
>The place it is rusted out is basically just around the battery tray. I 
>think this is not what you mean with radiator support, is it?
>
Sorry George but I just went out and looked on my 68 and that
is the core support.  Runs behind the headlights, kicks out at 45
degrees, and then runs flat under the batt.  Someone good at 
fabricating could replace that section for you (possibly even use
the other side off an equally trashed core support).  The problem
is that if that person is not you will probably cost as much as
replacing it anyway.  Really like the idea of using the pass side
to fix the drivers side, though.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 17:05:15 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: 75 Olds Delta 88 Mirror

Mark, 
Have a good one from my 75 Cutlass Supreme, fine cond, left side w/remote,
I believe it's the same as Delta, should fit orig. holes, have to take off
door panel, bolts go in from the inside, don't have the chrome bezel that
goes on the door panel, everything else is there, 25.00 plus shipping.
email privately.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

- ----------
> From: Mark <greenmm@earthlink.net>
> To: Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: 75 Olds Delta 88 Mirror
> Date: Sunday, December 13, 1998 11:30 PM
> 
> Anyone have a mirror for a 1975 Olds Delta 88?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 18:04:53 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Looking for the number to Engle Cams..

Try using your internet search engines.

- -----Original Message-----

>Anyone got the telephone number to Engle Cams?
>
>Thanks,
>Ken
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 17:07:32 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 68/69 Console

Sorry everyone, Meant to send private but the nut came
loose behind the wheel again.


>Joe (Olds Guru),
>Thanks for the info.  Now get this.  Ken Snyder has a 
>TH350 shifter and needs a Jetaway detent plate for
>his race car.  We've struck a mutually beneficial deal
>to swap detent plates and the best part is we both 
>found the parts we thought we'd never find.  You've
>got to love this list!  BTW might as well pump you for
>info.  Do you know of anyplace that sells the indicator
>bezel for the 69?  Once again thanks for help.
>
>Mike B 
>
>> The detent plate can be
>>removed from the shifter mechanism, but unfortunately you'll likely never
>>find a replacement (unless it already has a shifter attached to it).  
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 12:39:20 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Nice folks at work

I was at lunch a while ago when a co-worker brought me a gift.  It seems he
was in a antique/collectible/junk shop the other day and saw an item he
thought I would like.  He presented me with a Oldsmobile 100th anniversary
Coke bottle.
It was a nice gesture.  The bottle is now setting in a place of prominence
above my desk.  We should all be so lucky.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 18:15:05 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: add ANOTHER to the fleet... and going to digest

zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu wrote:
> 
> Hello all...
> 
> Just had to tell everybody about my latest purchase... actually... it's
> not an Oldsmobile... well... actually not even GM... not even a CAR!!!!  I
> am now the proud owner of a 1962 Ford F100 Fleetside... 200 bucks worth...
> couldn't resist... I'm thinking PARTS HAULER ;-) 
......
>  I'm not kidding when I
> say FLEET either... I'm up to 6 cars now!


Clayton,

You have to have at least 10 vehicles to have a fleet.  I've got 17
currently, soon to be purged down to 8 or 9.  Charley probably has more
than that.  I, too, have been kicking around the idea of a parts hauler.
I can't seem to get enough parts into the Mobile Office (the Town Car),
so I've ben half heartedly looking for a pickup of some sorts.  Know
what I want, just can't afford it.  Reasonably late model diesel with
standard transmission at a reasonable cost.  Don't think there's much
chance on catching one of these, however.  Did see a 94 Ford pickup (300
6 banger, 4 spd, 21k miles) for 4200 that had a fire in the bed
advertised.  Thought about going to take a look, but the timing isn't
right and other things are going on right now.  Of course a fire in the
bed could mean a pile of ashes sitting on top of the frame or something
very simple.  Not crazy about the 6 though.  Now for 200 bucks, that
would be another matter.  I wonder what the partsmobile of choice is
among the Oldsmopites but I don't want to be responsible for a long
thread on this.  Later gang......

Don Sowers

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 18:19:49 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: add ANOTHER to the fleet... and going to digest

zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu wrote:
> 
> Hello all...

Snipping here a lot

My bad. I forgot to congradulate you on the addition.  The things that
happen to your mind as you hit the old age years just ain't fair....

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 18:21:19 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: Driving Lights suggestions needed

Thinking about adding some driving lights to my '72 Cutlass.

In a net search I found CATZ and PIAA.  Today at an auto parts place I
found CEPECK about half the price of PIAA and looks identical.  Main
difference I could see was that the wiring and relays were more generic
(but there might be more differences inside).

Looking for experience & suggestions.

thanks,

jp

Jonathan Parke
mailto:jonparke@together.net

'72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
(near the end of a 5 year frame off customization)

'60 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spider Veloce
(completely in pieces, perfect body, long term restoration)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 17:18:55 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Heater Blower Relay (a thread off of "70 A/C Wiring")

OK going out on a limb here.  What's the possibility of the non AC
cars not having the same "high" speed as the AC cars.  All non AC
cars I've seen don't have a blower that really kicks like the AC ones,
though they are the same part #.  Possibility that the development
time was invested in the AC cars and the non AC cars were left
fairly "primitive".  This would fit in that the AC cars have an extra
speed than the non AC cars so that a non AC cars "high" would
be an AC cars 2nd MED.

Now see how  many times you can put "AC" in a paragraph!

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>According to the wiring diagram on non AC cars there is no relay.  All
>current goes through the fan switch at the heater control and it has
>OFF-LO-MED-HIGH positions.  On the other hand the fan switch for the AC
>cars has LOW-MED-MED-HIGH and the HIGH position runs a the relay which
>kicks the current to come over directly from the + junction block  
>
>Is the non AC switch heavier duty than the AC so that it can take the
>higher current draw?
>
>If not and it is of basically the same gauge material then I'm assuming
>there must another reason the EEs designed the AC this way.  I wouldn't
>think they'd go to all that extra trouble and expense unless there was a
>really good reason.
>
>Something must be different, but as I look at the component and wiring
>diagram I can't see any reason other than too high of a current draw.
>Which doesn't seem to make sense because the non AC cars don't do it this
>way.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 17:23:31 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: piston swap question

Ken, 
Use a flex hone(glaze buster), fine grit, might have a little glaze on the
walls, probably not, but would hate to take that chance, a twenty minute
job at worst, cover the crank journals, that sandpaper grit likes to fly
around. Clean the cyn. walls good, after.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
- ---------
> From: Ken <olds442@en.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: piston swap question
> Date: Monday, December 14, 1998 3:08 PM
> 
> I have about 15 1/4 mile passes and about 50 miles driving on my 455
Olds.
> I'm going to scrap the +.030 TRW L2323 in favor of a set of +.030 Arias
flat
> tops.  Question is can I just take the old pistons out and put the new
ones
> in with a new set of rings, or do I need to disassemble the whole thing
and
> have it honed.
> 
> Thanks,
> Ken

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 14 Dec 1998 17:25:55 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 75 Olds Delta 88 Mirror

On my '72 with the sport mirrors there was a single screw on the 
back of the "post" next to where it attached to the body.  Pull the
screw and the mirror would slip off the catch on the front and 
come right off.  The remote cables could be disconnected at 
the mirror end, though difficult.  The two screws that went through
the door from the inside actually went through the gasket and 
into a mounting bracket that the mirror covered up when installed.
Don't know if the Delta's had the same setup but have seen 
similar on many GM's throughout the years.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>What I can't figure out is how the mirror was stolen in the first place
>without trashing the door, the assembly or the cables... certainly I can't
>see how anyone could steal it and still have it function for them.
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1665
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