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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1693


oldsmobile-digest     Thursday, December 31 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1693



Re: new addition to the family
Re: [Weatherstrip]
Show Stoppers
Re: Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to 0.050".
Re: Interior Vinyl Spray
IGNORE THIS
Re: Disc brake conversion
Re: engine spec
Re: Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to 0.050".
Re: more MC leak
RE: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468 Olds Hemi???)
Re: Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to 0.050".
Re: SV: Disc brake conversion
Wanted-61 Olds bubble top
Re: Exhaust Manifold Bolts
Show us the DAMN Cars
Re: Show us the DAMN Cars
Re: Show us the DAMN Cars
Re: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468 Olds Hemi???)
Re: Show us the DAMN Cars
Happy New Year! :) 
Solid Web 403, Was: diesel stroker and other possibilities [long]
Re: body shop est.
$21.00 Delta 88 FS on eBay
Re: [Re: [Re: [Weatherstrip]]]
Re: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question
Re: Interior Vinyl Spray
RE: Disc brake conversion
Re: Lifter Preload Adjustment
RE: Interior Vinyl Spray
Re: B-Bodies of GM
Re: Show us the DAMN Cars
Re: $21.00 Delta 88 FS on eBay
New Year
Re: Show us the DAMN Cars(add idea)
Re: Show us the DAMN Cars
ball joints
Re: [RE: Interior Vinyl Spray]
A '70 conv. for sale...
Re: Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to 0.050".
Re: Electrical Problems
Re: New Year
SV: Disc brake conversion (geting long)
A different disc brake Q
RE: A different disc brake Q
Re: Show Stoppers
Re: Disc brake conversion
Re: [Re: [Re: [Weatherstrip]]]
Re: SV: Disc brake conversion
Re: [Re: [Re: [Weatherstrip]]]
Re: A different disc brake Q
RE: Disc brake conversion/ Vacuum pump
Re: Show Stoppers
Re: Lifter Preload Adjustment
Re: Disc brake conversion/ Vacuum pump
Re: 66 wiper wiring

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 22:40:40 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: new addition to the family

On the slant back '78-'80 A bodies the Cutlass Salon and "442" (an
appearance & handling option) were available with the 231 V6, the 260 Olds,
and the 305 Chevy in either 2 or 4 barrel form.  A few were even fitted with
4 speed manual transmissions.  (I once looked at a '78 442 with the 305 and
4 speed combo.) The Buick version tended to have the 231 V6 or the 301
Pontiac.
Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 22:49:01 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: [Weatherstrip]

I have to second whoever put in the plug for Steele.  I have tried all three
brands on my '69 98 Conv.  The Steele pieces are easily the best.  Wish they
made everything for it.  Have been very unimpressed with Metro.  Poor fit
and the same door closing problems others have complained about with
Soff-Seal.   Soff-Seal, as noted is a bit hard, but seems OK otherwise.  OEM
still wins by a mile if you can find it and afford it.  Wonder why it is so
hard for the aftermarket to get it right?
Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 19:51:59 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Show Stoppers

While perusing the toy section of a local store
tonight, I ran across a new (?) addition to the
Johnny Lightning line.  This series is called
Show Stoppers.  Which is consists of drag
strip exhibition cars of the 60's (Little Red
Wagon, Hemi Under Glass, L.A. Dart, etc.).
And (Drum roll, please)...THE HURST HAIRY OLDS!
I bought all three they had.  
The goofy thing about them is that at first
glance it appears to be the 1966 version.
The picture on the package is a 66, the 
paint scheme on the car is the 66 design
and they even have the fake 66 4-4-2 fender 
vents.  But, the body is clearly a 1967!
I find this "minor oversight" surprising
considering the detail of the rest of the
car.  Oh well, at least they didn't depict
the car after one of its many encounters
with the guard rail. 
 

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Web Site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 23:06:48 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to 0.050".

In a message dated 12/30/98 1:47:24 PM Pacific Standard Time,
csimpson@ucalgary.ca writes:

<< Everyone will be glad to hear that I bought a cam and I won't be
 asking anymore dumb camshaft questions:)  I wimped out and got the
 214/224 one.
 
 Thanks again to everyone for their input.
 
 -- 
 Cliff Simpson >>

     Cliff, let us know, (at least me) how it is in your motor....I should
perhaps have mine in the 403 within 2 weeks (if the machine shop actually
starts working on it)  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 23:22:30 -0500
From: EJ <oldsluvr@bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Interior Vinyl Spray

Peter Landowski wrote :

>When you spray your interior parts a different color is it OK to use
>lacquer? I am using the SEM product line and they claim to buy a >product
>they make called vinyl prep. Would not using lacquer be the same? >Instead
>of spending $$$ on a can of SEM cleaner.


I've heard you can use vinegar to wipe off vinyl just before you are
ready to paint. Not really for the purpose of cleaning, but to help open
up the pores in the vinyl so the paint will adhere better. Used it
myself on the round center vinyl insert on an 80's style 2 spoke leather
wrapped sport steering wheel. No complaints. 


- -- 
"EJ"  In Hamilton Township, New Jersey, suburb of Trenton
On digest where availabile, not regular mail
E-Mail: oldsluvr@bellatlantic.net
                               The "Fleet"
1979 Pontiac "Olds organ donor" Trans Am T-tops Rebuilt Olds 6.6L 403 
     4bbl-TH350 Performer Cam and Intake.....going into the Calais
     For Sale. Click on the link below.....
http://www.1pontiac.com/cgi-bin/1pontiac-cgi/webbbs1-cgi/config.pl?read=3210
1984 Olds Cutlass Calais T-Tops 5.0L 307 4bbl-TH350-2.14 gears K+N.....
     soon to be 6.6L 403 4bbl, and hopefully some better "rear" gears
1985 Olds Toronado 5.0L 307 4bbl-AOD(newly acquired Sept. 98). 
1992 Lincoln Mark VII LSC Moonroof 5.0L 302 EFI HO-AOD-3.27 gears
     inner fender baffle removed-K+N.
1992 Ford F-250 Reg-Cab 4WD 7.5L 460 EFI-E4OD Auto-3.55 gears.
     3-inch converter-dual outlet flowmaster 3 chamber.
     Complete K+N(no more factory air-box)-ADS Super Chip-Spitfires-
     Accel Super Coil-Cap-Rotor & 8.8 wires.
1994 Toyota Camry Sedan 4-banger-(Wow we could have had a V6!)-"mili
     -liter"-AOD. K+N (why did I even bother, still a slug!) 
     My SO's rider

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 23:38:19 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: IGNORE THIS

sorry man

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 30 Dec 1998 20:32:35 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Disc brake conversion

To all who have replied:
I definately have more to track down and thanks a lot for the part
#'s.  I was leery of reaming the spindle and have explored all other
avenues I can think of.  Turns out that reaming the spindles is 
common practice for some classes of dirt oval racing.  They also
do other things like welding bungs to the lower control arms to 
accept chrysler screw in ball joints.  I figure that if reaming the 
spindle will work on a dirt race car without problems, It should work
fine for a street car.  The thing I like about the idea is that I can
order a std overhaul kit and use just those parts which is for
future convienience and to keep the cost down.  I figure if we
put our heads together and do some homework we can figure
iron out the deficiencies to this swap by using all GM parts (yard
parts, of course).  By alieviating the clearance problems for the
guys with big blocks we could make a universal conversion which
would be a worthy addition to the FAQ.  Back to the research!

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>I dont know if i would rekomend you to ream the knukle.
>it is after al a vitale part of the front end asambly and what if you dont
>get it right?
>and a b-j breaks in a 0.90g turn???
>Just turn down the ball joints.
>(still messing whit it but isier to gett right)
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 05:22:35 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: engine spec

>        Everything sound right. Yes the Supreme should have had the 4 bbl 
carb,
>but there was a no cost option to have the L-65 2 bbl 350 installed in a
>Superme. Seen lots of them with this. Why, I have no clue why someone would do
>this. It seems like a step back.

I think the 2-bbl was a $16 credit. Taking that option is probably something
a dealer would do to increase his profit margin.

>>I have a 1970 cutlass supreme conv. With buckets and automatic. The vin
>>indicates that it was built in California. I am reasonably sure the car is
>>original. The problem is that the engine is a 350 2bbl and most of the
>>literature says it should have a 4bbl. Can someone confirm or deny if the 


and then, >From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
>
>  My 1970 Cutlass 'S' came stock with a 2bbl, so it's possible that
>your supreme did too.  Check the numbers on the intake manifold and
>the engine block and see if they match.  If they do, it's correct. 
>Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

The 4-bbl was only standard equipment on the Supreme; the "S" would come
with the 2-bbl.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 05:22:31 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to 0.050".

>> Olds lists duration at 0" but I would like to find out what their
>>duration's translate to at 0.050".  Is this possible?

Not directly for all cams. The whole reason for the .050" standard is that
the cam grinders with very gradual ramps would show huge durations, because
it took so many degrees to get the lifter up by .050", while other cams with
more aggressive ramps would show less total duration at 0" lift. Perhaps you
could generalize regarding cams from a certain grinder, but there's no
simple formula (if there was, there would be no need for the different forms
of measurement).

>> I am planning on getting a 214/224 @ 0.050" with 0.473/0.496 lift but
>>the shops says this is not enough.  

Not enough for what? Your engine will _run_ with the above cam; it's a
matter if that cam will allow your engine to run as you want it to.

>>They recommend 224/234 @ 0.050" with
>>0.496/0.520 lift.  

What are your goals for this, such that they would recommend that camshaft?
It may or may not need valvetrain modifications to avoid interference
between the valvespring retainer and the top of the valve guide, with the
.520" lift. 

>    For the bigger cam you need valvetrain upgrade (you may have this
>already) due to high lift.  Also, it should make tons of power from 2500 on
>but when will you use it.  If I remember corectly you don't want the lousy
>idle or overcamed engine and this cam may give you more then you want.

Ditto; Figure out the range you want the engine to run in most of the time,
choose the cam for that range, and then build the rest of the car
(converter, rear gears, tire size) around that. Or, of one of those other
variables is fixed (i.e., say, you're not going to change from the 3.08 rear
gear you have in there now), then choose the other parts to match. If you
don't, you'll end up building a car that you didn't want to build (i.e. a
high-rpm cam with some 3.08 gears would be great for 70mph+ highway
cruising, but that does you little good if you do your driving in-town).

>> The stock cams that I would like to convert are:
>> 258/272   .435/.435  455 ex. Pol., Toro
>> 262/274   .440/.440  455 Toro ex. W-34
>> 286/287   .474/.472  455 4400 ST, AT OAI ex AC

A general rule of thumb is that older cams have more gradual ramps because
the materials used in the lobes and lifters got chewed up with aggressive
ramps. Now, with better quality metals, cam grinders can get to the same
lift with less duration. The only way to get a .050" figure for the above
cams would be to measure them. 

My 455's have all had the first cam listed, and that has an extra-smooth
idle; but, aftermarket cams with much more lift than those above can offer
as smooth an idle with a more aggressive ramp, since the overall duration is
about the same.

Bob Barry

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 05:22:28 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: more MC leak

Just a few things to add to some excellent advice...

>to bench bleed a master cylindar you need to:
>
>1) get/make a bleeder kit. this consists of the two fittings for the outlets,
>and 2 short pieces of rubber hose

There is also a small kit of adapters with the hose that you can buy; some
of the better MC's include these in the box, and they can be reused later.

>2) install fittings into the fluid outlets
>3) place rubber hoses on the fittings and place the other end into the fluid
>resevoir  (spelled right?)

Instead of rubber hoses, you can also use some hard brake line bent into a
loop (or a couple loops); the rubber hoses tend to fling themselves out of
the resevoir, spraying brake fluid along the way.

>4) fill with fluid  
>5) use a piece of metel dowel ( i use a screw driver even though i've been
>told not to) and work the piston just like your brake pedal would. continue
>this until there is not ait bubbles in the fluid

Also keep the MC level when you do this, so air is not trapped in the bore.
I've found a 1/2"-drive socket extension is good for pressing in the piston;
I can imagine that they are concerned a screwdriver might scratch the
opening where the booster pushrod is supposed to engage, which might prevent
it from engaging properly.

- -Bob Barry

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 05:22:37 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: RE: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468 Olds Hemi???)

>Anyone find a way to adapt the Quad 4 head to a 350 Rocket?  

I didn't know anyone was looking for a way... ;)

(probably as likely to adapt a T*yota 4-valve head; bore centers, bolt
patterns, cam drive just as different).

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 00:44:53 -0500
From: "Frederick S. Nissen" <FSNissen@Worldnet.ATT.NET>
Subject: Re: Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to 0.050".

Bob, 
Welcome back to the list.  I am sure I speak for many others when I say
I have greatly missed your erudite and pithy commentary.
Regards,
Fred
1969 98 Conv.  455/400
1977 Delta 88 Town Sedan 403/350
1977 Ninety-Eight Regency Coupe 403/400
1978 Delta 88 Royale Coupe 350/350
1979 Ninety-Eight LS Coupe 403/400

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 00:30:10 -0600 (CST)
From: blue442@webtv.net
Subject: Re: SV: Disc brake conversion

Hello Listers,
Thanks very much for sharing info on this thread, especially to Trond P
for all the #'s!

Just one more question, what's a B-body?  I understand A, F, G, even X,
but B?  I can only guess it's the Delta.  Please forgive my  ignorance
as I've stowed tne Chilton's temporarily out of reach.

Thanks again,
Jeff Carter
blue442@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 00:37:56 -0600 (CST)
From: blue442@webtv.net
Subject: Wanted-61 Olds bubble top

I've been asked by a friend from work to help his uncle find this car.
I really don't know what the model name is, but believe it is akin to
the Impala.  The uncle wants to find a car like his first.  If anybody
sends me info, I will relay it to him.  

Please respond privately,
Thanks.
Jeff Carter,
blue442@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 02:05:27 -0500
From: Jeff Mullenix <muxx@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust Manifold Bolts

Yes, to all oldsmobiles on the exhaust manifold locking tabs.

Jeff






At 08:19 PM 12/30/1998 -0500, you wrote:
>I have just refinished the exhaust manifolds on my 72 350 cutlass
>covertible. What kind of bolts were used on them and what kind of finish
>did they have? I know that they are 3/8 X 1 1/4" long.  Most new bolts
>are cad plated and I doubt if they were on the original.  Also did the
>72 350 olds have exhaust manifold locking Tabs?
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 02:10:57 EST
From: CCRR12@aol.com
Subject: Show us the DAMN Cars

Maybe I have watched too much TV over the years, but it seems to me that GM,
specifically Oldsmobile, needs to step back and reevaluate their advertising.

How about less special effects and little more substance in these commercials.
Today's commercials are pretty cool for entertainment but tell you very little
about the car. Matter of fact, I hate to admit it but Chrysler actually talks
about their features, and during the last ten years have convinced the general
public that they are the innovators of new functions and design.

Years ago, it was Oldsmobile, who was showing off their new features. I have a
tape of Olds commercials from 1940 through the 70's. They made wild claims at
times, but they sure made you want to drive that car. You were convinced that
the Olds was a fun car to drive even if it was a loaded out 98.

The most attractive ad on TV right now is Chrysler's use of the 300M track
footage to tie in with their new model. It definitely lends some history to
the new car. Or what about Ford's use of the 64 Mustang in their ads.

My other old car is a 49 Ford F-1 Pickup, so I think the Ford truck ads with
the old 48's in it are pretty cool. Makes me want to go buy a new Ford truck
so they will match.

I know that a lot of the marketing is toward women and wimpy guys, but surely
they have more to sell than just cupholders. Surely there are some real men
out there that want to buy a real car. Oh, sorry, that is Buick's line. 

The image set by 442, H/O, etc., sold a lot of Cutlass'. But when your main
image is a dull gray, four-dour blob car with an unknown engine is anyone
running to the Olds dealership?

I actually had a guy ask me the other day if my 57 had a V-6. He didn't think
Olds ever had a V-8. I was speechless! Then he said that he bet I wished I had
one of those Chrysler 300's like on TV!  I should have made him sit down and
watch J/2 commercials for 2 hours!

God, I am getting old.

Randy in Oklahoma
57 88 J/2

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 02:34:51 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Show us the DAMN Cars

CCRR12@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Maybe I have watched too much TV over the years, but it seems to me that GM,
> specifically Oldsmobile, needs to step back and reevaluate their advertising.

Snipping a bit......

> God, I am getting old.

As far as teh old statement, aren't we all.  And I wondered if anyone
else ahd noticed the same things you said above.  The car ads in the 50s
60s and 70s made you WANT to go test drive the new %^%*& or at least it
perked up your interest to at least look at the models.  Today it is a
commentary on the general population that they think we want to be
entertained with fireworks, special effects and the like more than
informed and our curosity tweaked.  Remember the Dr. Olds ads, the
Mustang ads, and most of the MOPAR ads to mention a few?  They were
interesting and they made you want to go see and test drive the new
#$%^#%%@%@.  There have been a few ads that have gotten me to pay
attention though.  Remember the BMW ad a few years ago with the penguin
in it?  And there have been a few others over the last few years worthy
of noting.

I would suspect that one of the main reasons they have changed the
ad-man's tactics is that the cars just don't change that much anymore. 
Last year's #$%^#^% looks almost identical to this year's #%^#%^ so I
guess they are just trying to get you to notice by using attention
getters and not information deliverers.  A bit like a marketing test to
measure the change in the effect of the advertising selling the same
product I would guess.  A really sad part of today's automobile scene is
the lack of interest created by the new models each year.  Used to the
dealers had the showroom windows covered up, the cars came in covered up
on the trucks and the grand unveiling was a big event.  Now it is no big
deal unless some manufacturer is debuting a totally new product, like
the Prowler or Viper, or any of the other recently introduced products.
Other than that it's pretty much same old same old.  Oh well, a lot of
other things don't generate as much interest today as it used to either.
Christmas is still nice, but it isn't as much fun as it once was for
me.  Must be the old age thing again............

Don Sowers

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 00:38:38 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Show us the DAMN Cars

> How about less special effects and little more substance in these 
commercials.
> Today's commercials are pretty cool for entertainment but tell you very 
little
> about the car.

Much of it is an impression thing.  It's hard to compare features from car to
car, since you can get about anything on anything, and it's hard to figure what
to emphasize most.  Chrysler has spent millions on advertising.  I'd seen some
documentaries on what the "basic" morphing scene costs, and the ones they use
are far from "basic"  That's some heavy duty computing going on in those ads. 
Lots of dough shelled out.  GM doesn't want to spend that much money, they want
to just get you thinking about it enough to come into the dealer and ~drive~
one, rather than just figure out what car does what.  Nobody's gonna sell a car
based on the ads, they're just a form to get folks in their door.  Then it's up
to the salesman to do the rest.  I kinda like the turn Olds has taken in their
advertising.  Hell, they're actually ~showing~ advertisements.  Couple years
ago, you'd ~never~ see an Olds ad on TV.  Or anywhere else.  Big step.



Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 02:47:30 -0500
From: "Erik Gertsen" <ainode@frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468 Olds Hemi???)

i remember an old issue of ch#vy craft in which a guy was selling converted
fiero twin cam heads for small blocks and big blocks. except they were like
2000 a head. really kick ass though, no more flexy pushrods.
Erik Gertsen
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, December 31, 1998 12:22 AM
Subject: RE: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468 Olds Hemi???)


>>Anyone find a way to adapt the Quad 4 head to a 350 Rocket?
>
>I didn't know anyone was looking for a way... ;)
>
>(probably as likely to adapt a T*yota 4-valve head; bore centers, bolt
>patterns, cam drive just as different).
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 03:03:37 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Show us the DAMN Cars

Oldsmagnet wrote:

> to just get you thinking about it enough to come into the dealer and ~drive~

It's not working for me, Charley.  But then I haven't bought a new car
from a dealer since, hummmm let's see, about 1972.  I did buy another
almost new car from a dealer in 1975 though.  Got screwed both times and
just didn't go back.  Although I had been around cars most of my life, I
did the first deal because of the wife wanting a/c and to lower my
insurance (yeah right).  Went from a great 1970 Dodge Charger to a so-so
1972 LTD with less go and more luxury.  Bad move.  And I bought it from
a guy that I met at a dealer training class.  REAL bad move.  Then I
traded the LTD in two years later for a 1974 Jensen-Healy witha  4 speed
when we got divorced.  That was even a worse move.  Both transactions
can be written off as the cost of obtaining an education in retailing.

> to the salesman to do the rest. 

See the above paragraph.  I actually went to a local dealer to look at a
low mileage Ford pickup as a parts gogetter this past weekend.  It
reminded me why I don't frequent the car lots anymore.  Did his best to
switch me from the $8000 truck they had to a $16000 or so newer model
beside it.  Both the trucks looked like they had been used to haul
concrete or gravel or something like that.  Then I stopped at another
dealer to take a look at a 1990 Nissan 300ZX they had a low ad price
on.  As the ad didn't state the mileage, I expected it to be over a
100k.  I asked the sales guy what he could tell me about it.  Well, it
seems it was red and someone had it out for a test drive.  Asked about
the mileage and he said somewhere around 180k he thought.  I told him
that killed it for me and he got this look of disbelief on his face. 
But it's  the new style, etc, etc.  Too many miles I told him, said
thank you and left.  Both stops reminded me why I don't mess with
dealers anymore.  They think the general public as a whole consists of
idiots and with the correct posturing and attitude you should buy
anything at any price.  Sorry, not for me.

> advertising.  Hell, they're actually ~showing~ advertisements.  Couple years
> ago, you'd ~never~ see an Olds ad on TV.  Or anywhere else.  

Maybe they have decided that the Olds division isn't going to die
easily.  Now if they would only restructure the product lines some......

Don Sowers

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 02:43:11 -0600 (CST)
From: Kimberly Ann Wandrey <kaw0006@jove.acs.unt.edu>
Subject: Happy New Year! :) 

Hi Y'all! 

I want to wish you all a very safe and happy New year! Thank you for all 
of your responses to my posts and questions, be serious or silly. :) You
all have been extremely helpful and supportive. 

Please be careful out there, take it easy and I hope to meet lots of you
in June for the '99 Nationals!! :) 

Happy Holidays,
Kim & Junior ('72 Cutlass Supreme)
Dallas, Texas
Member OCA & NTOC

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 05:56:21 -0500
From: "CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Solid Web 403, Was: diesel stroker and other possibilities [long]

Martin <Snip>
<<<I would suspect the SMW 403's were cast in 1976, when they were not used
in any car yet.>>>

<GJC>
I heard an oldster collector, "recollect" that he heard they went in to
marine applications due to fast RPM range flex.

Have a Happy and Safe Holiday Season!
- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs
Rt-1, Box-615
Bailey Road
Purling, NY 12470

(518) 622-0376
ICQ# 5209322
mailto:gjcouse@CC-IROC-SS.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
Send Project Questions To:
mailto:info@C-IROC-SS.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 07:30:27 -0500
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@pa.net>
Subject: Re: body shop est.

$300 Paint Job?

I did my own body work and prep on my 69, including some rust work.
I bought the materials, poly primer and Centauri Acrylic ... Spectre Red.
And then blocksanded and masked the car myself.

I hired a professional to shoot the paint.

Total cost not counting my own labor .... $1,100
If you can find anyone who can do it cheaper than that ...
I want his name. 

Ken Swick
swickka@pa.net
 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 08:58:40 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: $21.00 Delta 88 FS on eBay

Here's one for you bargain hunters out there... an '85 Delta 88 2-door (an
actual car, not a model) for sale on eBay. Right now you can have it for
$21.00. For that price I don't think you get a warranty. :)

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=52599935

Such a deal... ;-)

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 07:49:58 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: [Re: [Re: [Weatherstrip]]]

sounds like the door just needed an adjustment...KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Suess <restoman@netscape.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, December 30, 1998 7:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Re: [Re: [Weatherstrip]]]


oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:
In a message dated 12/30/1998 11:13:11 AM Eastern Standard Time,
restoman@netscape.net writes:

<< It is stiff but will compress in time for a real
good long lasting seal.Don't want to replace em
every year right? >>


Had some on a 66 Chevelle for 5 years....   still had to beat the door shut
because of the vent window to roof pillar weatherstripping!

Bill K




That vent window is fully adjustable . Not hard at all
when you know what to do.

RESTOMAN

____________________________________________________________________
More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at
http://home.netscape.com/netcenter/mail

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 08:57:53 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question

Is that you Doc? Are you back?

Dave Cullen



- -----Original Message-----
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, December 31, 1998 12:26 AM
Subject: RE: Quad 4 and Hemi trivia question (was: Re: 468 Olds Hemi???)


>>Anyone find a way to adapt the Quad 4 head to a 350 Rocket?  
>
>I didn't know anyone was looking for a way... ;)
>
>(probably as likely to adapt a T*yota 4-valve head; bore centers, bolt
>patterns, cam drive just as different).

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 09:08:11 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Interior Vinyl Spray

>When you spray your interior parts a different color is it OK to use
>lacquer? I am using the SEM product line and they claim to buy a product
>they make called vinyl prep. Would not using lacquer be the same?

I believe that vinyl "paint" is actually a dye that permeates the material.
Don't think it's the same thing as spraying paint - lacquer or otherwise.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong here - I never used the stuff myself.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 09:07:38 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: Disc brake conversion

> I also have the H-O disc conversion kit, on my 68 442.  I'd like to know
> where I can get replacement ball joints, especially the top.  I
> 
This was a topic a while back (like a year maybe) and someone stated that
all of HO Racing inventory was sold to another company (??Malibu ?????
something or other, don't recall the exact name, but I have the post saved
an I think I do know where this one is).  Also, someone on the list found
out the ball joints in question are actual TRW units, and I think a part
number was also posted.  Again, I'll have to find the post.  Or maybe
someone else remembers this topic and has the info saved somewhere.  Joe P.?
Dr. Bob?, Dave Brown? ... Bueller?  Bueller? .... just kidding.  I've often
thought about this swap also, but when Ken Crocie/HO Racing went out of the
parts business, I had second thoughts.  FYI, Ken Crocie is still around, he
has a tech line you can call, but like all things, it'll cost ya.  I still
remember the article on Ken's 64 goat "Old Goat, New Tricks"  where it
compared his modified 64 with a ZR-1 vette.  The goat easily held it's own.
Maybe that article has part numbers in it, I'll have to dig that up also.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 09:14:49 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Lifter Preload Adjustment

>My Crane roller rockers are making noise too.  I might not even bother
>relashing them if all rollers do it.
>
>-greg


This totally sucks. If (when) I build a 350 I want it as quiet as my roller
307. How can the factory make an engine so incredibly quiet and smooth and
yet the fancy aftermarket parts click and clack?

Maybe it's the lifters that make the difference, not the rockers?

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 09:19:54 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: Interior Vinyl Spray

> >When you spray your interior parts a different color is it OK to use
> >lacquer? I am using the SEM product line and they claim to buy a product
> >they make called vinyl prep. Would not using lacquer be the same?
> 
> I believe that vinyl "paint" is actually a dye that permeates the
> material.
> Don't think it's the same thing as spraying paint - lacquer or otherwise.
> 
> Someone correct me if I'm wrong here - I never used the stuff myself.
> 
	I just went through the Year One catalog and they have vinyl dye in
spray cans or quart containers.  So it is, sorta, the same the thing as
spraying paint.

	Chris Smetana
	Terre Haute, IN
	http://www.abcs.com/chris

	1969 W-31
	1969 4-4-2 parts car
	plus others

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 09:22:30 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: B-Bodies of GM

Just one more question, what's a B-body?  I understand A, F, G, even X,
but B?  I can only guess it's the Delta.  
_____________________________

B-Bodies of 1985;

Olds Delta 88, Custom Cruiser
Chubby  Impala, Caprice Classic
Pancho Parisienne
Buick LeSabre, Estate Wagon.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 09:28:57 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Show us the DAMN Cars

>Maybe I have watched too much TV over the years, but it seems to me that
GM,
>specifically Oldsmobile, needs to step back and reevaluate their
advertising.
>
>How about less special effects and little more substance in these
commercials.


TOTALLY agree with you on that. It seems to be the marketing / advertising
style of the late 90's. It's not just cars they advertise this way, it's
everything. Look at the stupid soft drink commercials, or for a real puke
check out kids' TV cartoon shows and watch the ABSURD commercials played for
that market.

Arizona jeans even has a commercial where the kids say "Just show us the
jeans!"

"Show me the CAR, Oldsmobile!"

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 09:30:54 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: $21.00 Delta 88 FS on eBay

>
>Here's one for you bargain hunters out there... an '85 Delta 88 2-door (an
>actual car, not a model) for sale on eBay. Right now you can have it for
>$21.00. For that price I don't think you get a warranty. :)

<sniff> Oh! The indignity of it!

drc
85 Delta 88 Royale

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 08:32:21 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: New Year

To all, 
A very Happy New Year to you all, 
weatherman is predicting 12 to 14" of snow for fri and sat, be under lock
down those days, have two cords of wood, and a 11# honey baked ham, should
keep us going a couple of days.

Lou 
lbiggs@intertek.net
PS For the New Year, a chicken in every pot and an OLDS in every garage,
cheers all!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 09:32:22 EST
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Re: Show us the DAMN Cars(add idea)

I love my olds but the best ads on TV in the last 10 years were the Nissan ads
with the 300 z, Indiana Jones doll, Dinosaur and the Barbie doll, A truly
great advertising/marketing plan. I wish olds would get an ad agency like
that. How about an add with a young couple in a H/O and an older couple in a
new car and they are at a stop light and they look back and forth revving
engines and then the new olds gets them from light to light. (I KNOW DON'T SAY
IT) and then it shows the older couple laughing and go into the "It's not just
your fathers Oldsmobile anymore" approach. Just a thought and have Linda and
"Doc" driving the new Olds??? OK I have put on my flame retardant suit to
handle the back lash -----just my . 02 Chris

CHRIS SOMMERVILLE
69 442SC
STARFIRE V8? (IDEA IS SLOWLY DYING, MAYBE MORE PROBLEMS THAN IT IS WORTH)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 08:47:21 -0600
From: bloom9@juno.com (C K)
Subject: Re: Show us the DAMN Cars

Wow...I hope I don't step on any toes here.

 In today's pop culture the powers that be...such as the advertising
gurus and others who supposedly have the "pulse" of america, consider the
average Joe consumer as a part of the herd.

When I say "herd", what I mean is they feel that we will buy anything as
long we think everybody else is buying the same thing. They feel that we
have very little individual taste because we are afraid to stand out in a
crowd.

This is just one of many reasons I love it when I come into contact with
someone who sees my daily driver '67 Cutlass and knows I could be driving
something newer! It blows their minds!! In their herd instinct minds they
can't comprehend why I don't own what everyone else has determined is
"normal".

On the boob tube it's a sin to be unique and to go with what 	YOU
like instead of what they have picked out for you to like. One of the
ways they do this is to sell us an image of who they want us to be, so
they can sell more of their product. 

This is why I absolutely cannot stomach most all  car commercials.

Don't get me wrong, I fell in love with the '67 Cutlass\442 in 1977 and
have been driving one ever since. That's the real reason I drive one. I
believe we all should drive what we want, no matter what kind of car it
is. BUT IF IT'S NOT AN OLDSMOBILE....   :-P
Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 10:04:01 -0500
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: ball joints

List....

        Trust me on this one.....
H/O went out of business and their stock
was bought out by Malibu. The "kit" they sold
consisted of off the shelf upper ball joints and
tie rod ends and cut down lower ball joints. The surface
that presses into the  control arm was cut down to
the same diameter as the a-body ball joint
NO MAGIC - NO SPECIAL HIPO PIECES - I have the kit
on my desk along with the ball joints that I had cut
down to test my theory....


The General

------------------------------

Date: 31 Dec 98 08:06:11 MST
From: Bruce Suess <restoman@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [RE: Interior Vinyl Spray]

oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:

> >When you spray your interior parts a different color is it OK to use
> >lacquer? I am using the SEM product line and they claim to buy a product
> >they make called vinyl prep. Would not using lacquer be the same?
> 
> I believe that vinyl "paint" is actually a dye that permeates the

> material.
> Don't think it's the same thing as spraying paint - lacquer or otherwise.
> 
> Someone correct me if I'm wrong here - I never used the stuff myself.
> 
	I just went through the Year One catalog and they have vinyl dye in
spray cans or quart containers.  So it is, sorta, the same the thing as
spraying paint.

	Chris Smetana
	Terre Haute, IN
	http://www.abcs.com/chris

	1969 W-31
	1969 4-4-2 parts car
	plus others


>> 
Yes, sprays like paint but is vinyl dye, very flexible
lasts 10 times longer than laq. even in high wear area,s
like seat bottoms.Dupont sells exact match colors by
trim code #s!!.You must be carefull to prep fully.
CRONAR wax+silicone remover works very well.
Try the vinyl spray you,ll never go back to laq.



RESTOMAN

____________________________________________________________________
More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://home.netscape.com/netcenter/mail

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 10:25:34 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: A '70 conv. for sale...

Just picked this up from the newsgroups:

>
>Subject: 70 cutlass supreme conv. special ram air
>
>70 olds conv white w/blck top and interior. ice cold
>air,auto 325/350 factory original, must sell due to
>illness $5995
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------
>  This article was posted at the request of the author
>  by EPage, http://ep.com/
>  The URL for this article is:
>                http://ep.com/ep/mi.html?ad=171519
> --------------------------------------------------------------
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 10:07:15 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Is it possible to convert durations from 0" to 0.050".

Many good points Bob.

Robert Barry wrote:
> 
> <snip>
> Ditto; Figure out the range you want the engine to run in most of the time,
> choose the cam for that range, and then build the rest of the car
> (converter, rear gears, tire size) around that. Or, of one of those other
> variables is fixed (i.e., say, you're not going to change from the 3.08 rear
> gear you have in there now), then choose the other parts to match. If you
> don't, you'll end up building a car that you didn't want to build (i.e. a
> high-rpm cam with some 3.08 gears would be great for 70mph+ highway
> cruising, but that does you little good if you do your driving in-town).

OK, I want a fast daily driver that would only go to the track to
find out what it's E.T. is.  It's a 455 with the TRW L2323 pistons,
stock 70 intake, stock E heads, a Quadrajet and HEI.  It will run a
TH400 tranny with a corporate 12-bolt (stock on Canadian 69 442's:)
3.31 posi.  I want to keep the SS-II's so I will put on the biggest
tires they will take.  I've been running the same rear end and
transmission with my 400 so I know that it runs fine on the highway
and should be tall enough for the city.  

About the only thing that I might be changing is the heads and the
exhaust.  If the E's need too much work then I may just use a set of
C's.  The machine shop should get back with the estimate sometime
next week on the heads.  The headers have been trashed (caught on
cement going into a shop) so I _may_ replace them with the stock 442
manifolds that C+M sell (pause while everyone cringes at the thought
of replacing headers with stock manifolds).

The shop thinks that the 214/224 cam does not have as much duration
as I should run for this combination.  I, however, am more
conservative.  Do you think this is a bad combination?  I should
take the time to calculate at what speed it will "top out" at. 
Edelbrock uses this (214/224 with 0.473/0.496) cam with a Performer
and says it's good between 0 and 5500.

> <snip>
> A general rule of thumb is that older cams have more gradual ramps because
> the materials used in the lobes and lifters got chewed up with aggressive
> ramps. Now, with better quality metals, cam grinders can get to the same
> lift with less duration. The only way to get a .050" figure for the above
> cams would be to measure them.

That's what I thought but I was hoping that either: a) someone had
measured them, or 2) there was a rule of thumb for converting.

> 
> <snip>
> Bob Barry

Thanks for the insights.
- -- 
Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 11:32:13 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: Electrical Problems

This would be more work now, but you could convert to an internally
regulated electronic alternator. Cleaner AC to DC power conversion is a
plus also. Heck, then a HEI conversion is half done (needs cleaner
electricity than a mechanical regulator can supply for modules to last).

I think yours and the ones I'm describing here are the "CS" series. That
might be wrong, but you can easily match them up at the parts store or
yard.

63 Ampers are about as abundant as Lincoln pennies, and there are a few
in the 80 Amp range as well. The amperage and polarity are stamped into
the housing. It will read something like "63A   NEG". Yours is probably
a 53 Amp. I found a nice 97 Amp CS that will find it's way into
something. The wiring for charging the battery should be 10 guage to
handle the possible 65 Amp output.

Some other gotchas, for the list in general. 8 guage wire should be used
for anything higher than 65 Amps output (might be a little hard to
find). An dash amp guage might not be a good idea with an alt with
greater than 65 Amp output. Replace with a volt guage (probably the
better idea regardless of alt output potential).

- --
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 12:41:00 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: New Year

Bummer, man.  I'll think of you and lift a glass in your honor from the
bridge of Gold Brick.  Cullaloo.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net>
To: Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, December 31, 1998 9:31 AM
Subject: New Year


>To all,
>A very Happy New Year to you all,
>weatherman is predicting 12 to 14" of snow for fri and sat, be under lock
>down those days, have two cords of wood, and a 11# honey baked ham, should
>keep us going a couple of days.
>
>Lou
>lbiggs@intertek.net
>PS For the New Year, a chicken in every pot and an OLDS in every garage,
>cheers all!
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 19:07:30 +0100
From: "Trond Pedersen" <trondped@c2i.net>
Subject: SV: Disc brake conversion (geting long)

 I was leery of reaming the spindle and have explored all other
 avenues I can think of.  
They alsodo other things like welding bungs to the lower control arms to 
accept chrysler screw in ball joints.  I figure that if reaming the 
 spindle will work on a dirt race car without problems, It should work
 fine for a street car. 

Hear yaa
Hear yaa

unfortunently here inn Norway i can barly get by with turning the ball
joints down
the approval goverment are wery aware off the fakt that it is posible to
mount F-body knukles
and they think that we are not so smart that we would change the ball
joints
i could bearly gett by with it by showing the parts before mounting then
and an expetione afterwards.
(the ball joints were unturned at that time ;-)) 
reaming the knukles is a big NO NO.
mounting a 455 in a G-body is also a big No NO. (been there don that.)
my best story so far is when an budy of mine bought a GMC firetruck (68 mod
i think)
the max gross wheigth on it was 3550 kilos.
and he wantet to have it down to 3490 kilos
so that he could drive it on a car driving lisens.
NOPE. he had to have a sertifikate that it could manange the new gross
weight that was 60 kilos less than the old!!
i gues that tought that it would brake an axle if it caryed 60kilos less
;-)

Trond Jarle

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 13:36:10 -0500
From: "Bill Reilly" <wjreilly@erols.com>
Subject: A different disc brake Q

Hi gang,

With the thread on the disc brake swap going on, I think I'll ask my
question concerning my upgrade.

I'm having trouble getting the lower ball joint to seat against the spindle.
I upgraded to a caprice spindle to handle 12" discs and am using a PST lower
ball joint, a stock replacement item for my '85 Cutlass.  Also, I'm using
Hotchkis upper A-arms, and their instructions never mentioned using a
different ball joint.

Anyone have suggestions on pressing those items together?

One other item, will 15" rims clear the 12" rotor and caliper setup?  I am
waiting for ARE to come out with 16" Torque thrusts, but will need something
in the meantime to get it rolling.

Thanks alot, and have a Happy and Safe New Year.

Bill Reilly
mailto: wjreilly@erols.com
Web Page: (Not yet)

My Garage:
'83 Cutlass Ciera
'84 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 13:41:44 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: A different disc brake Q

> I'm having trouble getting the lower ball joint to seat against the
> spindle.
> 
Had the same problems trying to install spindles on my GTO.  Just keep
trying to compress that spring with an internal spring compressor and
eventually it will go.  I had to undo the compressor and recompress the
spring at least 6 times before it would finally work :(

> One other item, will 15" rims clear the 12" rotor and caliper setup?  I am
> waiting for ARE to come out with 16" Torque thrusts, but will need 
You too.  I'm almost positive they are available.  I swear I saw them in a
magazine in like the new products section or something.  Either that or
another company has something very close to Torque Thrusts in 16" available.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 13:52:27 EST
From: Fireman431@aol.com
Subject: Re: Show Stoppers

Thanks for the info on the show stoppers.

Since 442 is all you do, I have a poser for you:

I have a '66 442 that is anything but stock. It has been totally rewired with
a Painless Wiring universal 18 circuit kit, but it doesn't have the harness
for the wipers!
I have a new 4 terminal wiper motor and the original wiper switch. I don't
have a clue as to the wiring order for the motor. I know the motor must no be
grounded to the chasis, but I don't want to take a chance and "test" the
wiring, as it will burn up the motor. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Larry Morgan

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 13:58:16 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: Disc brake conversion

In a message dated 12/30/1998 8:31:45 PM Eastern Standard Time,
patton@ComCAT.COM writes:

<< DO NOT REAM OUT THE CONTROL ARMS !!!!!! >>
we were discussing reaming the knuckl, not the controll arm.

Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 14:00:30 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Re: [Re: [Weatherstrip]]]

In a message dated 12/30/1998 8:40:20 PM Eastern Standard Time,
restoman@netscape.net writes:

<< That vent window is fully adjustable . Not hard at all
 when you know what to do. >>


not the vent window, the strip that went between the front pillar of the door,
and the windshield post.....   can't adjust that, aspecially when the original
weather stripping is easily compressable by hand and the Soft Seal stuff would
barely compress with me standing on it.

Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 14:04:06 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: SV: Disc brake conversion

In a message dated 12/31/1998 1:31:17 AM Eastern Standard Time,
blue442@webtv.net writes:

<< Just one more question, what's a B-body?  >>

Chevy Caprice and it's relatives

Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 14:07:35 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Re: [Re: [Weatherstrip]]]

In a message dated 12/31/1998 8:50:52 AM Eastern Standard Time,
kerryk@CWIX.com writes:

<< sounds like the door just needed an adjustment...KK >>


The door was in perfect adjustment, with totally rebuilt hinges....  also,
while it was always stiffer then I thought it should be, "beating it shut" was
obviously an exageration.  also, as this was around 13 or 14 years ago, I am
guessing the newer products are nicer.

Bill (actually knows how to adjust a door for propper fit) K

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 14:13:08 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: A different disc brake Q

In a message dated 12/31/1998 1:35:11 PM Eastern Standard Time,
wjreilly@erols.com writes:

<< I upgraded to a caprice spindle to handle 12" discs and am using a PST
lower
 ball joint, a stock replacement item for my '85 Cutlass. >>

I'll have to check on that one, I know I have the specs here.

<<One other item, will 15" rims clear the 12" rotor and caliper setup?>>


Yep....   should fit (the caprice used 15 inch wheels.)


Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 14:27:43 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: Disc brake conversion/ Vacuum pump

okay gang,
I think I can do the conversion now.
but what about using a power booster with a BIG cam? I have 6 in hg vac at
idle and that ain't enough for power brakes. Is there a electric or belt
driven vacuum pump that would be very cheap and not a HP robber? I know
about the AC compressor and AIR pump usage but I want a smaller package,
less hp loss, and better install than the AC or AIR units.
I am gonna do the disc swap without doubt..but, I really would like to have
enough vacuum for the power booster.
I've got a 72 442 with a 455 and a 244/244 deg cam.

any ideas? 
 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 13:40:23 -0500
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Show Stoppers

Greg Rollin wrote:
> 
> And (Drum roll, please)...THE HURST HAIRY OLDS!
> I bought all three they had.
> The goofy thing about them is that at first
> glance it appears to be the 1966 version.
> The picture on the package is a 66, the
> paint scheme on the car is the 66 design
> and they even have the fake 66 4-4-2 fender
> vents.  But, the body is clearly a 1967!
> I find this "minor oversight" surprising
> considering the detail of the rest of the
> car.  Oh well, at least they didn't depict
> the car after one of its many encounters
> with the guard rail.

Yeah, I finally found them last night and noticed the same thing.  But
there's another (of many ~small~ flaws) that you missed - the outside
headlights are twice the size of the inside headlights!  I guess someone
thought they were fog lights.

- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
OCA# 30442

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 13:34:26 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Lifter Preload Adjustment

How much noise are we talking here?  A slight clattering or
the loud ticking of a lifter?  A small amount of muffled clattering
is normal but if your getting a loud lifter tick either you have a bad
lifter or it's not adjusted properly.  The "old school" method is to
set the lash while the engines running and warmed up.  Take an
old valve cover and cut a slot in the top.  While the engine's running
back it off until you get the loud tick, tighten until it disappears, then
add a half a turn.  Even with all new parts you could still get a bad
lifter but in most cases this method with compensate for the odd
ball lifter that wants a bit more preload than normal.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>
>>My Crane roller rockers are making noise too.  I might not even bother
>>relashing them if all rollers do it.
>>
>>-greg
>
>
>This totally sucks. If (when) I build a 350 I want it as quiet as my roller
>307. How can the factory make an engine so incredibly quiet and smooth and
>yet the fancy aftermarket parts click and clack?
>
>Maybe it's the lifters that make the difference, not the rockers?
>
>drc
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 13:53:18 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Disc brake conversion/ Vacuum pump

What I did was use a booster off of a diesel (Olds) truck (cheby)
which runs off the power steering.  Not exactly the cleanest looking
option but was quiet (some of the electric vaccum pumps can be
noisy) and bulletproof.  Also gives you more clearance around the
engine.  When you consider that to reliably run the booster off the
pump you should also plump in an aux vacuum tank it comes out
looking a lot cleaner if you route the lines right IMHO.  As for the
vacuum pump I have seen them at the local chain stores and
JC Whitney catalog (can't find it on the website but you can get
a catalog free at  http://www.jcwhitneyusa.com/ .  Once again,
I would strongly recommend using a vacuum resivior in this
setup for safety.  You never know when you'll have to hit the
brakes a couple times in a row (would suck to run out of vacuum!
no pun intended).

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme


>okay gang,
>I think I can do the conversion now.
>but what about using a power booster with a BIG cam? I have 6 in hg vac at
>idle and that ain't enough for power brakes. Is there a electric or belt
>driven vacuum pump that would be very cheap and not a HP robber? I know
>about the AC compressor and AIR pump usage but I want a smaller package,
>less hp loss, and better install than the AC or AIR units.
>I am gonna do the disc swap without doubt..but, I really would like to have
>enough vacuum for the power booster.
>I've got a 72 442 with a 455 and a 244/244 deg cam.
>
>any ideas?
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 31 Dec 1998 11:46:38 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: 66 wiper wiring

Fireman431@aol.com wrote:
> 
 
> I have a '66 442 that is anything but stock. It has been totally rewired with
> a Painless Wiring universal 18 circuit kit, but it doesn't have the harness
> for the wipers!
> I have a new 4 terminal wiper motor and the original wiper switch. I don't
> have a clue as to the wiring order for the motor. I know the motor must no be
> grounded to the chasis, but I don't want to take a chance and "test" the
> wiring, as it will burn up the motor. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Larry Morgan



Larry,

First we'll need to establish which motor you have.
The factory used two styles in 1966 for the 
Cutlass or 4-4-2.  One is a round motor and the other 
is a square motor.  Both use three connections 
(plus two for the washer pump).
The switches are also different, depending upon
which motor the car is equipped with.
Both models ground to the firewall via a strap that
attaches the wiper body to one of the mounting bolts.


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1693
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