Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1615


oldsmobile-digest     Saturday, November 21 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1615



Re: HEADS >> Heat Riser Filling.
Re: garage space, long
Re: Mondello:Prices!?
68-72 parts located - send me a wish list.
67 Cutlass Info Needed
head heat riser
Diatribes, very little Olds content
Re: Turkey Rod Run Daytona
Re: motor check stand
UNBOUNCE: 72' 350
UNBOUNCE: used parts available/offered for sale
UNBOUNCE: 1934 Olds F34 Available
Autoweb
ADMIN: Attention Web Site Owners
RE: head heat riser
Re: Mondello:Prices!?
Re: head heat riser
Re: Mondello:Prices!?
Re: Lady Kitsu Re: About the Intake
Re: Lady Kitsu Re: About the Intake
Re: Those Damn Blue Headlights - an FAQ
Re: garage space, long
Re: 67 Cutlass Info Needed
Re: 67 Cutlass Info Needed
Re: garage space, long
Re: garage space, long and a request for an AK47
Re: garage space, long and a request for an AK47
small block olds oil fill tube
Re: Speedo Gear Changes
RE: speedo gear info
Anyone have a nice set of 68 tail lights?
Re: speedo gear info
RE: 403 pistons
350 Trans info
Olds Oiling Systems SB
Re: 403 pistons
RE: small block olds oil fill tube
Re: POR-15 : Pleucid
1985 Olds 442
1985 Olds 442
Re: small block olds oil fill tube
4 BFG TA's for sale brand new
Re: 4 BFG TA's for sale brand new
Re: "rear end" prepping....
Re: head heat riser
Re: small block olds oil fill tube
Re: Cryogenic's (was Mondello Prices!)
Re: 4 BFG TA's for sale brand new
HEATER CORE REPLACEMENT
Re: "rear end" prepping....
Re: POR-15 : Pleucid
Re: Olds Oiling Systems SB
68-72 parts located - send me a wish list.
Re: Olds 455 oiling system
Re: HEATER CORE REPLACEMENT
Re: Cryogenic's (was Mondello Prices!)
Re: Mondello:Prices!?
Mondello #SK 247-SP ValveSprings 4sale
Re: 1985 Olds 442
Erik's parts wish list.
Re: Olds 455 oiling system

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 17:35:47 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: HEADS >> Heat Riser Filling.

In a message dated 11/20/98 7:50:56 AM Central Standard Time,
WYATT_DAVID_L@lilly.com writes:

<< I also used
 the gaskets from Mondello which had no opening for the heat cross over.  I
 believe I bought the whole mess as a kit.   >>
....I paid $7  for Mr.Gasket intakes ...I wonder what those Mondello gaskets
cost? hehehehe. 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 16:42:20 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: garage space, long

Andy, 
We have an over abundance of two legged critters hanging around, Plus if
they see the car is covered, oh boy, must be something good, sugar for the
flies. ""Peter, email me the AK. I'll thin out their ranks"". I like the
plastic idea to, makes a lot of sense.
Lou
- ----------
> From: Andrew C. Green <acg_o@hotmail.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: garage space, long
> Date: Friday, November 20, 1998 3:34 PM
 
> Lou, build him the door if at all possible. That way you stand a 
> better chance of keeping out the two-legged critters as well as the 
> four; an open garage is an invitation to poke around, especially one 
> with cars visible inside.

> -- Andy

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 17:39:44 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Mondello:Prices!?

In a message dated 11/20/98 9:50:40 AM Central Standard Time, Jon442@aol.com
writes:

<< You can call out to CA and talk with either
 Joe or one of his representatives, tell them what you are building and what
 your goals are, and they will give you the straight scoop >>



I can not resist...1-900-modello

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 10:17:40 +0000
From: MB0 <MB0@americancentury.com>
Subject: 68-72 parts located - send me a wish list.

Hello all,

I am meeting with a fellow  Wednesday evening, November 25, to look at
some parts he has for 68-72 Cutlass/442. He says he has lots of NOS and
used stuff. If anyone wants me to look for something while I'm there,
send me a list (privately please). If he has what you're looking for,
I'll price it, then give you his name and number. He couldn't really
recall everything he had, but it sounds like a lot.

The parts are located in Kansas City.

Some things he mentioned having are: New weatherstripping (I'll compare
prices to some vendors), 69 hood, 70 core support, recoverable bucket
seats 68 and 69, consoles, back half of a convertible top frame - new,
front bumper-69, tail light assemblies-69.

It sounds like I'll just get to rummage around and see what I
find....just like a kid in a candy store.

Later!
Mike Baugher
69 Cutlass S convertible

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 14:50:49 -0800
From: Roy Rutz <ROYR@cdpr.ca.gov>
Subject: 67 Cutlass Info Needed

I have a 1967 Cutlass sports (post) coupe, automatic with the turnpike
cruiser engine (400/2 bbl) option.  Can anyone give me info or a source
on how many of these were put into various body styles?  One source
says 1800 sports coupes/auto total.  How rare is the turnpike cruiser
option?

Another question about front seats.  A source I am looking at (supply
catolog) shows only a bench front seat/center arm rest and buckets. 
Mine has a plain bench in front. They don't show this until 1968.  Could I
have a stock seat or is it a replacement?  It has been recovered, at least
once.  I don't want to put money into the seat if it isn't correct.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 17:57:36 -0500
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: head heat riser

I filled my C heads with zink heated it up poured it in, cleaned the
excess with grinder, pulled the heads two years later and the zink was
gone on both heads , where ? I guess out the exhaust.   Butch  68  442
post

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 17:01:26 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Diatribes, very little Olds content

To All, 
Do appreciate all the info on storing the 75, BUT, whoever mentioned the
word, SALT, DO NOT ever mention that word AGAIN!! It's the WORD anyone
north of the Mason/Dixon line cannot hear. That is against all regs. on
this list, worse even than the "me too" thing.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
PS Anyone want a "free Vega", trade you for a 12# turkey. Screw the turkey,
if you know anyone who may want it, email me.
PS need a flat bed, it runs, but I wouldn't drive it. St Lou area. No joke!

Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 18:03:01 -0500
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Re: Turkey Rod Run Daytona

Its a great place if you want to buy a car or ford and chevy parts not much 
olds
Butch

Mikeytvb@aol.com wrote:

> i can't help you with the transpo.  i'm only going to the swap meet.  do you
> know if people have many olds parts?  this is my first year.  hopefully i can
> find some stuff i need.
>
> mikeytvb@aol.com
> 70 442 w/455

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 17:09:54 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: motor check stand

Andy, 
HRM just did a thing on this, year to a year and a 1/2 ago, they said it
was B.S. I don't really know, need an elect. engineer like Joe P. to settle
this.
Lou
- ----------
> From: Andrew C. Green <acg_o@hotmail.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: motor check stand
> Date: Friday, November 20, 1998 3:57 PM
> 
> > Like "setting a battery on a concrete floor will make it discharge", 
> > that doesn't happen either, unless the WHOLE battery is covered with 
> > acid or water to make a connection between the posts and then to the 
> > floor. Maybe it happens, just haven't seen it happen,
> 
> Putting a block of wood under the battery if it's on a concrete
> (presumably garage) floor is for thermal protection, not electrical
> protection. The concrete floor at night can chill the battery below
> the temperature of the surrounding air, causing condensation to form
> a conductive path between the terminals. Auto exhaust provides a lot
> of humidity in the air to speed up the process.
> 
> Putting a block of wood under the battery helps keep it at air
> temperature, which prevents condensation from forming.
> 
> And it isn't just batteries that suffer; any steel parts sitting
> on the floor will rust a lot faster than the same parts sitting
> on a shelf.
> 
> > maybe my wifes' an alien also.
> 
> So am I; I'm from England.  :-)
> 
> -- Andy
> 
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 19:11:24 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 72' 350

Not on the list, respond to bluesupreme84@yahoo.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	JHJ <bluesupreme84@yahoo.com>
Subject: 72' 350

Have acquired an OLDS-350 out of a Delta 88.  Problem is that what
timing to set with an HEI, spark plugs and gap, total advance and type
of fuel to use.  Also it has the 64cc Heads.  Then I have a 77'
Olds-403.  I got the 403 at .030 over but will go to .040 but don't
know what else to do to get the maximum in stock form with flat top
pistons.



                                                 thank you
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 19:13:18 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: used parts available/offered for sale

Not on the list; respond to kmsaha@theriver.com if interested.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"kms/aha" <kmsaha@theriver.com>
Subject: used parts available/offered for sale

Re: 1965 Olds Vista Cruiser, have all roof glass, luggage rack & other =
parts from parts car. Any interest? Ken @ kmsaha@theriver.com or =
520-896-9585.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 19:14:58 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 1934 Olds F34 Available

Not on the list; respond to mecctazoo@gpcom.net if interested. Hope
someone snaps this one up!!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Dana Cornelius <mecctazoo@gpcom.net>
Subject: (no subject)

I am located in sw Nebraska and have a 1934 olds touring sedan model f34, 
which is prtially dissassembled but complete.  The car has always been 
inside steel and most wood are in excellent original condition.  Car is 
complete with rear tire carrier and cover.  Also have had extensive 
engine work done by a qualified maching shop.  Would entertain any offer 
on the car as I have lost intrest in the project and would like to see 
someone complete it as it is a very solid car that was originally sold 
only 50 miles from where I live.  Anyone interested please contact me at 
meccdaco@gpcom.net  or call me at 308-352-4045  Thanks for your help!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 17:18:11 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Autoweb

Just now got an email from Autoweb, Ford got 16%, Olds was second with 14%.
Must be the guys with the multi colored headlights, enough to ruin a week
end.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 19:20:20 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: ADMIN: Attention Web Site Owners

Chebucto Net is in the process of retiring two older domain names that it
once used. As a result, links containing the address
"oldsmobile@cfn.cs.dal.ca", "oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca", or variations of
the above, will soon be inoperative.

I still receive a fair amount of mail addressed to either the "cfn" or
"ccn" domains, so I suspect a lot of web pages out there contain the old
names. Please update any links so that the domain reads "@chebucto.ns.ca"
if you want these to remain functional. Thanks very much!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 18:21:17 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: head heat riser

> ----------
> From: 	B. Vosburgh[SMTP:bob442@svic.net]
> Subject: 	head heat riser
> 
> I filled my C heads with zink heated it up poured it in, cleaned the
> excess with grinder, pulled the heads two years later and the zink was
> gone on both heads , where ? I guess out the exhaust.   Butch  68  442
> post
> 
WHOLLY MOSES !!!!
	I could understand if the timing was way off or if the motor was
real lean  increasing exhaust temp.  

That kinda made me think on a couple of messages ago when the 850 deg
melting point was brought up.  Ain't the exhaust temp well over 1000 deg?  I
know the 1500 deg paint on the headers burn off in about 3 days and it was
BAKED ON....

We gotta find out if Butch's story is typical or not...
To me, it ain't worth the 16 HP gain if I got to worry about messing up the
valves, cylinders, etc. 
What would happen if you drove the car for 50 miles or so then shut it off
with the exhaust valve open ? Wouldn't the zinc run into the cylinders and
seize it up ??
Oh ... man...   This could be bad, real bad.

Donny ( Dazed ! )
72 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 18:33:08 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Mondello:Prices!?

Dealing with a person of skill, integrity and competence vastly offsets any
disparity in price.  I have spoken with Joe Mondello and found him to be
most gracious and forthcoming.  I have spoken with and bought from Greg
Rollin at Supercars and have never failed to be satisfied with either the
product or the counsel.  I am not advocating pissing away dollars, but it's
ever so true......You get what you pay for.  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 17:43:28 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: head heat riser

Donny, 
Don't really know the melting point of Zinc, could look it up, but, ( Old
person talking here), in 1962 pont offered alum headers on their 421, alum
front end drag car or on their Nascar option. Headers melted on Nascar
engines, went to steel, I had knew of guys that also had the same problem
with drag cars. Don't know the melting point of alum either but I believe
it is less than zinc. Our drag cars exceeded 1100o at the end of a 1/4
mile, including burn outs and staging. Perhaps we have a metal person out
here somewhere who could answer this question.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
- ----------
> From: Arnold, W D <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
> To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject: RE: head heat riser
> Date: Friday, November 20, 1998 5:21 PM

> > From: 	B. Vosburgh[SMTP:bob442@svic.net]
> > Subject: 	head heat riser
> > 
> > I filled my C heads with zink heated it up poured it in, cleaned the
> > excess with grinder, pulled the heads two years later and the zink was
> > gone on both heads , where ? I guess out the exhaust.   Butch  68  442
> > post
> 	I could understand if the timing was way off or if the motor was
> real lean  increasing exhaust temp.  
> 
> That kinda made me think on a couple of messages ago when the 850 deg
> melting point was brought up.  Ain't the exhaust temp well over 1000 deg?
 I
> know the 1500 deg paint on the headers burn off in about 3 days and it
was
> BAKED ON....
> What would happen if you drove the car for 50 miles or so then shut it
off
> with the exhaust valve open ? Wouldn't the zinc run into the cylinders
and
> seize it up ??
> Oh ... man...   This could be bad, real bad.
> 
> Donny ( Dazed ! )
> 72 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 17:45:37 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Mondello:Prices!?

Don't know Joe Mondello but Greg was a prince among men.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net


- ----------
> From: Peter Berusch <pber710840@email.msn.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Mondello:Prices!?
> Date: Friday, November 20, 1998 5:33 PM
> 
> Dealing with a person of skill, integrity and competence vastly offsets
any
> disparity in price.  I have spoken with Joe Mondello and found him to be
> most gracious and forthcoming.  I have spoken with and bought from Greg
> Rollin at Supercars and have never failed to be satisfied with either the
> product or the counsel.  I am not advocating pissing away dollars, but
it's
> ever so true......You get what you pay for.  Peter.
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 18:51:24 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Lady Kitsu Re: About the Intake

anyone else with a 1966 BB div choke?
  I've got a few.  But, what's the question behind the question?  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 18:05:47 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Lady Kitsu Re: About the Intake

24/7

- ----------
> From: Peter Berusch <pber710840@email.msn.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Lady Kitsu Re: About the Intake
> Date: Friday, November 20, 1998 5:51 PM
> 
> 
> anyone else with a 1966 BB div choke?
>   I've got a few.  But, what's the question behind the question?  Peter.
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 19:07:27 -0500 (EST)
From: dsenko@UU.NET (Drew Senko)
Subject: Re: Those Damn Blue Headlights - an FAQ

> Just a quick question what's with all the new cars with those annoying
> blue headlights?


Short answer:  Better lighting technology.

BUT.... expensive.  This is not merely a bulb replacement.  Currently
you're only finding these on cars like Mercedes, Audi, BMW, Lexus and a
few others.  I can get a conversion for my Audi A4 and it costs about
$2000 I think.

There is a headlamps FAQ that will answer all of your questions at:

http://lighting.mbz.org/faq/

I highly recommend reading this FAQ.  Shouldn't take too long.
There is a specific section on HID and Xenon lights, and also one on
"those blue bulbs" at:

http://lighting.mbz.org/tech/info/blue_bulbs/

If you see blue headlights on a car that is inexpensive or more than a
couple of years old, then the owner has bought replacement blue bulbs
in the hopes of achieving this effect.  These blue bulbs are the
snake-oil of the lighting industry.  What they have done is reduce
the amount of useable light that they have.  Not a smart move.  I
highly advise against it.

- --                     ______________                     _
Drew Senko            / Convertibles \                    |\
dsenko@uu.net         \_____Rule!____/     .__====-_._____|_\______
Vienna, VA, USA                     O      [   ___  |-     |  ___  \
http://members.aol.com/drewinva       o o  =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)
_______________________________________________\_/____________\_/_____

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 19:08:27 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: garage space, long

Sorry, Lou.  The AK is currently engaged (It's Deer season in Georgia), but
what about an M-60 from a not too closely watched PBR?  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, November 20, 1998 5:42 PM
Subject: Re: garage space, long


>Andy,
>We have an over abundance of two legged critters hanging around, Plus if
>they see the car is covered, oh boy, must be something good, sugar for the
>flies. ""Peter, email me the AK. I'll thin out their ranks"". I like the
>plastic idea to, makes a lot of sense.
>Lou
>----------
>> From: Andrew C. Green <acg_o@hotmail.com>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: garage space, long
>> Date: Friday, November 20, 1998 3:34 PM
>
>> Lou, build him the door if at all possible. That way you stand a
>> better chance of keeping out the two-legged critters as well as the
>> four; an open garage is an invitation to poke around, especially one
>> with cars visible inside.
>
>> -- Andy
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 19:14:46 -0500
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass Info Needed

I don't have any numbers on the auto-Tpke cruiser option.....but I have
a 67 Cutlass convertible with a plain bench front seat...I like it
better that way.  So did my wife before we were married...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 19:18:02 EST
From: TheBlue67@aol.com
Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass Info Needed

i know for sure the bench with no armrest is correct option for your car. i
believe most plain cutlass's did not have armrests. the supreme's on the other
hand did have a armrest because they were a higher luxury model. my cutlass
convertible does not have the arm rest.....its just a plain bench.

Brent
1967 Cutlass Covertible
http://members.aol.com/TheBlue67/main.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 18:27:32 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: garage space, long

Peter, 
M-60 will suffice, what do you do with the AK, cut them in half and gut
them at the same time, banana clip w/? rounds.
saw some wild turkeys where I hit the deer, may get the 75 out and reap a
harvest, did you ever clean one?, a huge pain in the ass, Go to Win Dixie,
saves much B.S. Have a good week end, be on and off list, much buying to
do, God, I hate to spend money! Tight Ass Yankee. take care buddy,
Lou

- ----------
> From: Peter Berusch <pber710840@email.msn.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: garage space, long
> Date: Friday, November 20, 1998 6:08 PM
> 
> Sorry, Lou.  The AK is currently engaged (It's Deer season in Georgia),
but
> what about an M-60 from a not too closely watched PBR?  Peter.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Friday, November 20, 1998 5:42 PM
> Subject: Re: garage space, long
> 
> 
> >Andy,
> >We have an over abundance of two legged critters hanging around, Plus if
> >they see the car is covered, oh boy, must be something good, sugar for
the
> >flies. ""Peter, email me the AK. I'll thin out their ranks"". I like the
> >plastic idea to, makes a lot of sense.
> >Lou
> >----------
> >> From: Andrew C. Green <acg_o@hotmail.com>
> >> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> >> Subject: Re: garage space, long
> >> Date: Friday, November 20, 1998 3:34 PM
> >
> >> Lou, build him the door if at all possible. That way you stand a
> >> better chance of keeping out the two-legged critters as well as the
> >> four; an open garage is an invitation to poke around, especially one
> >> with cars visible inside.
> >
> >> -- Andy
> >
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 19:37:17 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: garage space, long and a request for an AK47

Peter Berusch wrote:
> 
> Sorry, Lou.  The AK is currently engaged (It's Deer season in Georgia), but
> what about an M-60 from a not too closely watched PBR?  Peter.

How about sending it to Nicholasville, Ky?  I got back home and found
out that the Pulaski Co Sheriff's Dept had called and someone had been
messing with my BMW that was sitting at the body shop down in Somerset,
Ky (about 65 miles south of here).  Turns out this "gentleman" got mad
at the guy he was working for and stabbed 20+ innocent tires, 4 of which
were my car.  He then proceeded to key both sides all the way from the
doors back and across the deck lid.  I haven't seen it yet, but I talked
to the guy that owns the shop and he said the estimate exceeded $1,000
to repair the damage.  I had no insurance on the car, as it was down
there to be repaired.  He had no insurance on the damage because he had
just moved there a few months ago and had not put up a fence around the
property and the insurance company would not issue a policy with any
kind of reasonable premium without one.  He is going to repair the
damage and pay for the tires, so I can't fault him on that part.  BUT,
it still P@#$%^ me off that I did nothing to this guy and he screwed
with me.  They are trying to nail him for a felony (over $1,000 in Ky),
and I hope he meets some big ole boy in the cross-bar motel that nails
his butt.  Sorry for the venting, but people like this are waste of
oxygen and chemicals and a pox on the rest of us that try to live our
lives in an honorable manner.  This is particularily irritating since
this isn't the first time someone has messed with my babies.  Some of
you might remember the story of my stolen 69 S convertible recanted here
last year.  Ever since then I have a tendency to overreact to things
like this.  

(Getting down from the soapbox, searching the garage for the misplaced
AK47 and extra clips..........)  RATS!!!!!!!!!

Don Sowers

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 19:45:06 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: garage space, long and a request for an AK47

Don, get back on the soapbox and look in the rafters.  This guy deserves to
be in the crossbar motel.  I hope he gets to be a guest.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, November 20, 1998 7:38 PM
Subject: Re: garage space, long and a request for an AK47


>Peter Berusch wrote:
>>
>> Sorry, Lou.  The AK is currently engaged (It's Deer season in Georgia),
but
>> what about an M-60 from a not too closely watched PBR?  Peter.
>
>How about sending it to Nicholasville, Ky?  I got back home and found
>out that the Pulaski Co Sheriff's Dept had called and someone had been
>messing with my BMW that was sitting at the body shop down in Somerset,
>Ky (about 65 miles south of here).  Turns out this "gentleman" got mad
>at the guy he was working for and stabbed 20+ innocent tires, 4 of which
>were my car.  He then proceeded to key both sides all the way from the
>doors back and across the deck lid.  I haven't seen it yet, but I talked
>to the guy that owns the shop and he said the estimate exceeded $1,000
>to repair the damage.  I had no insurance on the car, as it was down
>there to be repaired.  He had no insurance on the damage because he had
>just moved there a few months ago and had not put up a fence around the
>property and the insurance company would not issue a policy with any
>kind of reasonable premium without one.  He is going to repair the
>damage and pay for the tires, so I can't fault him on that part.  BUT,
>it still P@#$%^ me off that I did nothing to this guy and he screwed
>with me.  They are trying to nail him for a felony (over $1,000 in Ky),
>and I hope he meets some big ole boy in the cross-bar motel that nails
>his butt.  Sorry for the venting, but people like this are waste of
>oxygen and chemicals and a pox on the rest of us that try to live our
>lives in an honorable manner.  This is particularily irritating since
>this isn't the first time someone has messed with my babies.  Some of
>you might remember the story of my stolen 69 S convertible recanted here
>last year.  Ever since then I have a tendency to overreact to things
>like this.
>
>(Getting down from the soapbox, searching the garage for the misplaced
>AK47 and extra clips..........)  RATS!!!!!!!!!
>
>Don Sowers

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 20:08:34 -0500 (EST)
From: BM77@webtv.net (Brian Miller)
Subject: small block olds oil fill tube

I am taking my 1987 307 olds small block apart for an overhaul. How do I
get the oil filler tube out of the block? Is there a special tool? Any
immediate help you can give me would be great.

                                              Thank you
                                               Brian

BM

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 18:16:37 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Speedo Gear Changes

>Makes the gas
>mileage look good though. ;-)

I like that too on mine.  2.56 to 3.23s.  Even so, the mileage is still
crap.  The big thirsty 455 is long ways from a 307 in power, but in lack of
economy as well.  The 307 with old 2.41 posi could not spin the tires, but
could still go well over 100 mph at vary comfortable RPMs.  I also got 22
mpg.  The 455 and 3.23s can go over 100 but not at nearly as low RPMs, and
gets a few GPM instead of MPG.  Bottom end power is awesome.  Big Delta
smoking the 255/60/15 tires at will at 1/2 throttle even with a posi (and
12-inch converter).  Igor.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 20:17:33 -0500
From: Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca
Subject: RE: speedo gear info

Igor, I have a '72 chassis manual in front of me. I can only say what it
refers to. Should be the same for '71 also. BTW, a 2.56 gear ratio is not
listed.

I will list the more popular gear ratios:

			Turbo - 350 code KA-LA		Turbo - 400 code 
0D
Turbo - 400 code OW
			DRIVE GEAR - 18 tooth		DRIVE GEAR - 18
tooth		DRIVE GEAR - 16 tooth
	tire-size		teeth	colour			
teeth
colour			teeth	colour
2.73  	G-70		38	blue			
38	blue
34	lt.green
3.08	G-70		43	purple			
43	purple
38	blue
3.23	G-70		45	lt.blue			
45	lt.blue

3.42	G-70
40	black
3.73	G-70
45	lt.blue
4.10	G-70		35	orange			
37	red
35	orange

> ----------
> From: 	Igor T. '81 DRB 455[SMTP:igor455@home.com]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Friday, November 20, 1998 1:02 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Re: speedo gear info
> 
> Thanks for the formula, but do you know the number of teeth the big gear
> would have for 2.56 and TH400.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca <Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: November 20, 1998 9:32 AM
> Subject: RE: speedo gear info
> 
> 
> >Guys, the math for this is very easy. Using the following formulas you
> will
> >get a very close approximation for the speed-gear you need. You need to
> do
> a
> >little research first, but this info. you should have and know especially
> if
> >you're talking about changing gears:
> >
> > Assume you already have 2.73 gears and the speedo drive gear has 31
> >teeth. This is your original matched setup that gives you the correct
> >driving speed. You now changed to 3.42 gears. You want to find out what
> >speedo gear to use, actually what you want to find out is the number of
> >teeth the speedo gear should have in order to achieve the correct speed
> on
> >the speedometer.
> >
> >The formulas:
> >
> > (original-gear)(original-speedo-gear) = (new gear)(unknown
> >x)
> >The math:
> >
> > 2.73(31)=3.42(x), solve for x.
> >
> > In this case, x (# of teeth of the speedo gear) is 24.75 or 25
> >teeth. Simple. Effectively, using a 25 gear tooth for the speedo will
> bring
> >you back to your original speed gauge configuration using the new gears.
> >
> >Note: these number are fictitious. You need to find out the original
> gearing
> >first for you application.
> >
> >Note: If the numbers you get for the speedo gears are not possible (read
> >they don't make them), then you will have to consider changing the other
> >gear the speedo gear mats to in order to achieve your correct
> configuration.
> >That is, after doing the math you find out that you need a 15 tooth
> speedo
> >gear, well this gear doesn't exist, so you may have to change the other
> gear
> >that the speedo mats to in order to correctly configure your speedo
> gauge.
> >This will happen when you switch to using a very low gearing, say from
> 2.14
> >you go to using 4.11's or even lower (5.10..etc), then you'll have to
> change
> >more than the speedo gear to correct your speedo.
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: David Brode [SMTP:dbrode@hereintown.net]
> >> Sent: Thursday, November 19, 1998 6:34 PM
> >> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> >> Subject: Re: speedo gear info
> >>
> >> Hello,
> >>  I've had good luck choosing a speedo driven gear this way;
> >> 1. Determine what percentage the speedo is off - go 10 miles on the
> >> freeway, counting the mile markers to determine the percentage of
> >> "incorrectness".
> >> 2. Count the number of teeth on your driven gear.
> >> 3. Calculate the teeth count needed on the new gear.
> >>  In other words, if your odometer[and therefore your speedo] is 10%
> >> slow, you need a driven gear with 10% less teeth, and vice versa.
> >>  Hope this helps.
> >> Dave Brode
> >> 64 Cutlass 10" tire, pump gas street car. 11.41@119.96
> >
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 20:18:36 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Anyone have a nice set of 68 tail lights?

I need tail lights for my 68 .     I need 442 lenses.


Thank You


Vinny

68 Hurst/Olds
62 Olds Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 18:24:35 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: speedo gear info

Thanks.  The tranny is '76 (from a Delta), the rear is '78 from a Buick
LeSabre, and the whole thing is in a '81 Delta.  I pulled the speedo gear
out of the Buick when I got the rear.  However, the trans. from the Buick
was TH350, mine is TH400.  The gear from the Buicks TH350 was beige in
color.  Which manual do I look for to see these specks.  Chiltons or so.
There was a 3.23 option on the '76, so if I can locate the manual, I might
be in luck.  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 20:27:58 -0500
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: 403 pistons

Hey, uh, I believe that the max overbore for a 403 is .040.  So, if you're
planning on going .060, make sure it's alright to do before you invest any
money, I mean, more money.

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
Bucks County, PA
costanzo@netcarrier.com


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of DYeager535@aol.com
Sent: Friday, November 20, 1998 3:04 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 403 pistons


     Since I have to bore the 403, the .0040(?) pistons that were in there
have to go. They are of course used, but good enough that I was going to use
them again. I assume any motor that's bored can use them, but I'm not
postive..I figure they shouldn't wear anyplace that would matter regarding
the
bore. If anyone's interested (there are SO many of you using 403's haha) e-
mail me privately...don't want to get rich, and would like to save someone
else the agony of $200 a set for new ones if I can.  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 20:28:47 -0500
From: Jim Olson <jolson@edzone.net>
Subject: 350 Trans info

Does anyone know if there's a difference between the 1st and 2nd gear
ratios with the TH200 and the TH350?

Jim...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 20:37:29 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Olds Oiling Systems SB

     What is the difference between a Toro oil pan and the normal SB Olds
pans? Will the Toro pan fit with NO modification to the car it's going in? The
FAQ says it's bigger, but slapping just the pan on would not be any better the
way I look at it..the oil pump is STILL not getting any more oil..it's in the
same place. Are the Toro's oil pump different? Longer pickup tube? How about
the diesel motors? No distributor, they must use a dummy shaft?
That would indicate the same design oil pump then..I know they are the same
basic block, but a diesel pan would be easier to find as a core than a Toro
one I think. Dorian 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 20:39:13 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: 403 pistons

In a message dated 11/20/98 5:29:12 PM Pacific Standard Time,
costanzo@netcarrier.com writes:

<< Hey, uh, I believe that the max overbore for a 403 is .040.  So, if you're
 planning on going .060, make sure it's alright to do before you invest any
 money, I mean, more money.
 
 Ray Costanzo >>

     Ray, thaks for the concern. The machine shop said .060 is max, and since
it is already worn to .050, there is no other feasible solution in my
situation. You're right though..those cylinders are getting MIGHTY close to
each other, even stock. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 20:46:47 -0500
From: Fernando.Proietto@ec.gc.ca
Subject: RE: small block olds oil fill tube

Yeah, it's called a 2by4. I'm not kidding. Take a 2x4 and smack it firmly.
You will notice it shift from side to side. Eventually falling out. The tube
is force fitted, don't worry it won't dent.

> ----------
> From: 	BM77@webtv.net[SMTP:BM77@webtv.net]
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Friday, November 20, 1998 8:08 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	small block olds oil fill tube
> 
> I am taking my 1987 307 olds small block apart for an overhaul. How do I
> get the oil filler tube out of the block? Is there a special tool? Any
> immediate help you can give me would be great.
> 
>                                               Thank you
>                                                Brian
> 
> BM
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 21:45:48 EST
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Re: POR-15 : Pleucid

i wonder how this stuff would work on painted rallye 350 bumpers? any one have
any ideas?
                          jim 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 22:03:34 -0500
From: "Steve C" <cutlass@citlink.net>
Subject: 1985 Olds 442

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE14D1.9E8FD7E0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Does anybody know how many 1985 Olds 442 were made in the White / Silver =
color combo, or how many were made with the 5A heads instead of the 7A =
heads, Thanks=20

  Steve C

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE14D1.9E8FD7E0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Does anybody know how many =
1985 Olds 442=20
were made in the White / Silver color combo, or how many were made with =
the 5A=20
heads instead of the 7A heads, Thanks </FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT></STRONG>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp; Steve=20
C</FONT></STRONG></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE14D1.9E8FD7E0--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 22:03:34 -0500
From: "Steve C" <cutlass@citlink.net>
Subject: 1985 Olds 442

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE14D1.9E8FD7E0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Does anybody know how many 1985 Olds 442 were made in the White / Silver =
color combo, or how many were made with the 5A heads instead of the 7A =
heads, Thanks=20

  Steve C

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE14D1.9E8FD7E0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Does anybody know how many =
1985 Olds 442=20
were made in the White / Silver color combo, or how many were made with =
the 5A=20
heads instead of the 7A heads, Thanks </FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT></STRONG>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp; Steve=20
C</FONT></STRONG></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE14D1.9E8FD7E0--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 19:05:15 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: Re: small block olds oil fill tube

At 08:08 PM 11/20/98 -0500, you wrote:
>I am taking my 1987 307 olds small block apart for an overhaul. How do I
>get the oil filler tube out of the block? Is there a special tool? Any
>immediate help you can give me would be great.

If it has the correct engine code on it (and you care) I'd leave it in
and work around it.
If you are set on getting it out buy a replacement (about $20) first.
drill a 3/8" hole through it so you can put a bolt through it. use
the bolt as a anchor for a slide hammer.

Anyone know a non-destructive method of getting one of these things out?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 10:25:13 -0800
From: "Mark G. Morse" <mark.morse@snet.net>
Subject: 4 BFG TA's for sale brand new

Is anyone interested in buying 4 BFG radial TA's size p215 60 14.
Tires have about 1,000 miles and are still mounted on car. Asking
$150.00. Thanks, Mark.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 22:40:10 EST
From: LooseCanno@aol.com
Subject: Re: 4 BFG TA's for sale brand new

where?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 21:55:38 -0600
From: Dan Williams <442much@plutonium.net>
Subject: Re: "rear end" prepping....

I've been trying to decide what color(s) to paint my rear (68) and I'm stuck
between semi gloss black and natural.  I've heard all different stories such
as the rears were not painted, they were painted, they were watter dipped,
it depended on the assembly plant.  I'm really stuck on what to do.  I
assume that painted black or natural are both correct as far as juding goes.

Lou Biggs wrote:

> K,
> Powder coating would be nice, shot-peening or magna-fluxing really not
> needed, unless Karl needs a tax write off. Pretty mild steel, might bend
> but don't usually crack. A nice semi gloss black, don't want a shiny rear
> end. no pun intended.
> Lou
>
> ----------
> > From: KarlAune@aol.com
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: "rear end" prepping....
> > Date: Friday, November 20, 1998 3:02 PM
> (snip)
> > And yes, Karl fully intends to take it to "Reddy-strip" to have it
> > electrolytically de-rusted.
> >
> > Should Karl have it shot-peened or magna-fluxed as well?
> > How about powder coated?
>
> > Comments and flames invited.

- --
Dan Williams                            442Much@plutonium.net
Marion, IA                                     68 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 22:49:32 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: head heat riser

Makes sense since the alloy melts at 850 degrees. A lean running engine will
generate that much heat very easily. I've seen glowing exhaust manifolds.
That's cast iron folks, like a skillet that you would use to melt the stuff.

- -----Original Message-----

>
>I filled my C heads with zink heated it up poured it in, cleaned the
>excess with grinder, pulled the heads two years later and the zink was
>gone on both heads , where ? I guess out the exhaust.   Butch  68  442
>post
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 23:22:02 -0500
From: Gasman24 <stulk@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: small block olds oil fill tube

Bob Blanchard wrote:
> 
> At 08:08 PM 11/20/98 -0500, you wrote:
> >I am taking my 1987 307 olds small block apart for an overhaul. How do I
> >get the oil filler tube out of the block? Is there a special tool? Any
> >immediate help you can give me would be great.
> 
> 
> Anyone know a non-destructive method of getting one of these things out?

 On my 403 I just knocked it out(from the bottom) with a hammer, did'nt
hurt it at all. Scott

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 23:32:28 -0500
From: Gasman24 <stulk@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Cryogenic's (was Mondello Prices!)

> Sure a $180.00 pair of Vandervill rod & main bearings that have been
> cryogenically frozen is big bucks but a pair of Federal Mogul Chevy main
> bearings are $46.00 plus $54.00 for the rod bearings, for a total of
> $100.00. They are still $80.00 cheaper but from what I've heard and read,
> the cryogenic bearings are still better. If you had those bearings
> cryogenically done then the price would be around $180.00 also.
> 
> 
 Umm... Hate to ask again but, just how is this process done?
If the only thing involved is putting your bearings in liquid nitrogen
could'nt you just do this yourself?
 Or do you have to use some special type bearing? Or is there some 
"magic" process you have to follow?  Scott <stulk@bellsouth.net>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 11:19:03 -0800
From: "Mark G. Morse" <mark.morse@snet.net>
Subject: Re: 4 BFG TA's for sale brand new

LooseCanno@aol.com wrote:
> 
> where?
I am located in CT.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 11:26:11 -0800
From: "Mark G. Morse" <mark.morse@snet.net>
Subject: HEATER CORE REPLACEMENT

I have a '71 Olds Cutlass that needs the heater core replaced. I've
heard nightmare stories about changing them in these cars. Is this 
something I can tackle myself or should I try to find someplace to have
it done? 

Thanks, Mark.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 23:45:10 EST
From: Jon442@aol.com
Subject: Re: "rear end" prepping....

In a message dated 11/20/98 4:23:00 PM Central Standard Time,
lbiggs@intertek.net writes:

<< Powder coating would be nice, >>

I strongly recommend powder coating any suspension pieces, including the rear
end. Since powder coating electrically bonds itself to the metal, it will not
chip or pop off like paint will. Anything that flexes (rear end, sway bars,
springs, etc) should be powder coated if you only want to do it once. And
powder coating is not all that expensive. 

Jon

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 23:47:48 EST
From: Jon442@aol.com
Subject: Re: POR-15 : Pleucid

In a message dated 11/20/98 8:49:03 PM Central Standard Time,
DROLDS350@aol.com writes:

<< i wonder how this stuff would work on painted rallye 350 bumpers? any one
have
 any ideas? >>

They have a tech line at their web site: www.por15.com.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 20:50:40 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Oiling Systems SB

DYeager535@aol.com wrote:
> 
>      What is the difference between a Toro oil pan and the normal SB Olds
> pans? Will the Toro pan fit with NO modification to the car it's going in? 
The
> FAQ says it's bigger, but slapping just the pan on would not be any better 
the
> way I look at it..the oil pump is STILL not getting any more oil..it's in the
> same place. Are the Toro's oil pump different? Longer pickup tube? How about
> the diesel motors? No distributor, they must use a dummy shaft?
> That would indicate the same design oil pump then..I know they are the same
> basic block, but a diesel pan would be easier to find as a core than a Toro
> one I think. Dorian




Dorian,

Although I personally do not consider the Toronado pan to be
a
performance part, it will give you an additional quart of
oil 
capacity over your small block pan.  Which will help keep
the 
temperature of the oil down.  This makes it a good choice
for 
lower rpm applications such as towing, etc.  However, for
the 
most part, this additional quart of oil is kept in a second 
"sump" area in the front of the pan.  This second sump 
(with no drain back provision to the oil pump pickup) 
is required on Toronado's for clearance of the drive axles.  
And this is what creates the problem with using a Toro pan 
in a performance application.  This front sump places the 
crankshaft's counterweights directly in the oil.  
For one, this creates windage that reduces  
horsepower.  At high rpm, this will also throw the extra
quart
of oil up the right side of the block/crankcase.  Although
the 
Olds engineers did add a deflector to the side of the Toro
pan
to minimize this problem, the oil is not in the pickup area
of
the pan where it is needed the most at high rpm.  
In addition, because the crank is spinning in the oil sump,
this will aerate the oil.  Which creates a foamy and thereby 
poor lubricating oil condition.        
The Toro pan has no rear sump baffle that was used on all
other 
big block pans as a means of keeping the oil in the pickup
area 
under hard deceleration/braking. Instead, the Toro pan
requires the
use of a short baffle (or windage tray) that attaches to the
fourth
main cap (and one of the oil pump bolts).  By the by, this
windage
tray will also fit the other Olds pans and I recommend using
it.             
The Toro pans also have another baffle attached to the
number one
main cap as a means of reducing windage caused by the timing
chain
being in the front sump area.  In my view, as a performance
part, 
the only redeeming quality of a Toro pan is the bolt on
baffles.  
Not the pan itself.    
 
 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 00:31:56 EST
From: RONS69OLDS@aol.com
Subject: 68-72 parts located - send me a wish list.

I need some good grillsand some various chrome around the side glass since
mine is a sport coupe (two door post.    Thank you

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 23:45:52 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Olds 455 oiling system

If you have 40-50 psi at warm idle you have ALOT of oil pressure. What are
your clearances set at? ususally at warm idle the range of 20-35 is what is
the norm for the motor. You should be alright as long as you don't intend
to race it often. The occassional stoplight drag is alright, JUST DON'T
SPIN THE MOTOR ABOVE 5000RPM. Sure tock factory W-30 motors ran fine and
people put alot of miles on them. The question here is if someone had a
W-30 they would either pamper the thing or race it. The racers would modify
the motor. At the Mondello Nationals they ran stock factory cars. Some were
W-30 cars. These cars were usually in the low 14 second range. Some may get
in the upper 13's but I didn't see too many get there. Now for instance a
"modified" 455 in a 70 Cutlass like my friends who has the extra oil
capacity, restrictors, better cam, etc. can run low 12's all day. After a
couple of runs we drained the oil and he has the 7 quart pan and the oil
was pretty thinned out. Now compare that to a 4 quart pan and the oil would
have more viscosity breakdown. 

Sure a stock 455 motor with the 4 quart pan and factory oiling system will
be OK for street driving just don't beat on the thing too much. I am
talking from what mechanics who worked on the 455's told me and what
numerous Olds experts say. If you plan on racing it then you will get fast
main and rod bearing wear and get less longevity on the motor or possibly
spin a main or rod bearing. 

What worries me with your setup is your oil pump may be pumping too much
oil too quickly and you WILL suck the pan dry. A stock pump would be OK for
a 4 quart pan, but if you run a high volume/high pressure pump with the 4
quart pan IT WILL SUCK IT DRY!! This is because you are pushing more oil
faster through the motor and all of it is in the top end and it takes
awhile for it to get back into the pan. Mondello sells a pump that would
probably suck the 4 quart pan dry at idle due to its high volume. You need
an 8 quart with that particular pump. 
 
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Igor T. '81 DRB 455 <igor455@home.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Olds 455 oiling system
> Date: Friday, November 20, 1998 12:12 PM
> 
> All this talk of poor olds oiling has me worried.  When I rebuild my
budget
> 455, the oiling system stayed stock.  I installed a new Sealed-Power oil
> pump, but that is it.  It is a mild 455.  My oil reassure is no more the
60
> psi cold, 40-50 psi warm idle.  I am worried now.  If I check the oil
after
> I shut down the motor (right after), there is little in the pan. 
Obviously
> it can't be full right away, but it has me worried.  What about the stock
> W-30 or W-31 motors and others.  I know some lasted a long time, and
still
> went okay.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 23:59:07 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: HEATER CORE REPLACEMENT

Well all I can say is that my 72 has its dash and interior completely out
and it is still a pain in the but to get to the bolts!!!
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Mark G. Morse <mark.morse@snet.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: HEATER CORE REPLACEMENT
> Date: Friday, November 20, 1998 1:26 PM
> 
> I have a '71 Olds Cutlass that needs the heater core replaced. I've
> heard nightmare stories about changing them in these cars. Is this 
> something I can tackle myself or should I try to find someplace to have
> it done? 
> 
> Thanks, Mark.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 23:57:26 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Cryogenic's (was Mondello Prices!)

As far as I understand it they do use some type of liquid overlay before
they cryogenically freeze them. Something similar to taking a  bearing and
spreading a teflon coat and then heating them to bake it on.

Pettrix@prodigy.net


- ----------
> From: Gasman24 <stulk@bellsouth.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Cryogenic's (was Mondello Prices!)
> Date: Friday, November 20, 1998 10:32 PM
> 
> > Sure a $180.00 pair of Vandervill rod & main bearings that have been
> > cryogenically frozen is big bucks but a pair of Federal Mogul Chevy
main
> > bearings are $46.00 plus $54.00 for the rod bearings, for a total of
> > $100.00. They are still $80.00 cheaper but from what I've heard and
read,
> > the cryogenic bearings are still better. If you had those bearings
> > cryogenically done then the price would be around $180.00 also.
> > 
> > 
>  Umm... Hate to ask again but, just how is this process done?
> If the only thing involved is putting your bearings in liquid nitrogen
> could'nt you just do this yourself?
>  Or do you have to use some special type bearing? Or is there some 
> "magic" process you have to follow?  Scott <stulk@bellsouth.net>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 22:09:46 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Mondello:Prices!?

I have spoken with and bought 3,000 or so dollars worth of parts from 
Summit and have NEVER ONCE been unpleased with a order.  I have never 
had to send a part back!!  Take this from a guy with 7 current cars and 
countless others in the past!!!!!!!!!!

>Dealing with a person of skill, integrity and competence vastly offsets 
any
>disparity in price.  I have spoken with Joe Mondello and found him to 
be
>most gracious and forthcoming.  I have spoken with and bought from Greg
>Rollin at Supercars and have never failed to be satisfied with either 
the
>product or the counsel.  I am not advocating pissing away dollars, but 
it's
>ever so true......You get what you pay for.  Peter.
>
>
>
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 00:14:46 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Mondello #SK 247-SP ValveSprings 4sale

I have a complete set of valve springs Mondello#SK 247-SP for sale. These
will work on Mondello cams up to JM-22-25. Installed height is 1.700" and
320lbs open pressure. These are EXCELLENT springs. They only have 2000
miles on them. The reason I am selling them is that I stepped up in cam
size so now I need different springs. They go new for $130.00 and I will
sell them for $60.00.

E-Mail privately.....

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 20 Nov 1998 22:12:26 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 1985 Olds 442

Once is enough thank you!!!!!!



>Does anybody know how many 1985 Olds 442 were made in the White / 
Silver =
>color combo, or how many were made with the 5A heads instead of the 7A 
=
>heads, Thanks=20
>
>  Steve C
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 01:32:19 EST
From: LooseCanno@aol.com
Subject: Erik's parts wish list.

I have a definite wish list for workable, used parts in southern 
california.  My car is for driving, but there are some details I would
like to fill in with real NOS or decent used parts
Here's what I am after--

For '69 Cutlass S Convertible==
Chrome colored plastic back plates for behind SHORT armrest-both
Chrome strip for front of rear quarter glass / passenger side or both 
Lamp cover for inside console
real '69 cutlass front seat lap belts (Chevelle ones now)
decent white plastic seatbacks/ can trade black
chrome strips and ends for seatbacks
seatback release button/escutcheon
driver's side window
vent for door opening (the one that you can only see when
you open the door, in the jamb/quarter panel.black 
an original radio - for appearance only, or working if avail.
non-a/c kick panel vent CABLE and handle
parking brake assembly - have pedal and spring mech but need bolts,
connectors, cables etc.
any '69 photos, road tests, magazines, shop manuals, sales lit, manuals
color-key chart/paint chips


NOTHING needs to be show quality - just workable.

Last but not least - I would like to know if anyone knows of a good
SoCal Olds mechanic, shade tree variety, who can have as much time 
as he needs with my baby to rebuild the transmission and give
recommendations on what (if anything) should be done to the 
350 for enhanced performance/economy/longevity.

Is that too much to ask??

Please E-mail me privately, subject PARTS:...

Thanks List!
Erik
'69 Olds Cutlass S convert

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 21 Nov 1998 00:52:43 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Olds 455 oiling system

>If you have 40-50 psi at warm idle you have ALOT of oil pressure. What are
>your clearances set at?

That is what I thought as well.  My old 307 barley had any oil pressure at
idle in drive.  I am thinking maybe oil-pressure gauge is not that great.
Sometimes it is not smooth.  Anyway, it will sometimes do 35 psi at warm
idle.  I specifically asked for a stock replacment pump.  Now I am woried
that it may be a high-volume/pressure one.  With my cam, shifts at 4000 to
4500 RPM are all I do, because the powerband is over.  Clerances were right
in the middle of recomended by the Haynes manual.  That is a lot of
oil-pressure for a Olds.  As for the oil pan, will a 77 or so Toronado 403
pan fit.  I know that it will fit the motor, but I am asking if it will fit
the car ('81 Delta).  Is the 403 pan from the Toro bigger then my 455 pan.
My next 455 will definitley have the oil restrictors.  They don't even sound
like they are that expensive.  As long as below 5000 rpm will do fine, I am
happy.  I should be fine if I don't go above 5000, right.  What is it like
when you spin a beraring.  Any weird noise.  What about rod berrings.
Thanks.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1615
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