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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1630


oldsmobile-digest     Saturday, November 28 1998     Volume 01 : Number 1630



Re: Gas Gauge Blues
turkey rod run daytona....
Re: 68 442 model kit
Re: DRL's
Re: Hurst Olds - 442
Re: 68 442 model kit
Re: W-27
Re: Gas Gauge Blues
Re: Hurst Olds - 442
front axle nut
72 Tilt Steering Fix
Re: 68 442 model kit
Re: 455 Buildup
'71 rear end in a '66?
LS6 454 Cutlass
UNBOUNCE: Title Search?
Re: Flaps for Inner Fender Wells
UNBOUNCE: front axle nut?
Re: Starfire choke
Lights for safety was: DRL's
Re: 86 Cutlass Cierra Fuel pump
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1629
Re: 455 Buildup
Re: UNBOUNCE: front axle nut?
Re: UNBOUNCE: front axle nut?
Re: UNBOUNCE: front axle nut?
Re: Auctioneer
Re: Undercoat for engine paint/best bronze.
Re: 455 Buildup
OAI Air Cleaner
Dashboard Chrome
1994 Bravada digital dash problems
Re: UNBOUNCE: front axle nut?
Re: Hurst Olds - 442
Re: 72 Tilt Steering Fix
Rejoice with Me!!
Re: Hurst Olds - 442
Re: fast idle
Cierra Fuel pump
Re: painting grill
Re: fast idle
1947 Olds Custom Cruiser : Hot Rod or keep Original?  
Re: fast idle
Re: 1947 Olds Custom Cruiser : Hot Rod or keep Original?  
Re: 1947 Olds Custom Cruiser : Hot Rod or keep Original?  
Re: 1947 Olds Custom Cruiser : Hot Rod or keep Original?
model cars
Re: 68 442 model kit
Re: 1947 Olds Custom Cruiser : Hot Rod or keep Original?
Re: DRL's
Re: Oops, I need TH400
Rationalizations. was: DRL's

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 22:52:54 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Gas Gauge Blues

In a message dated 11/26/98 5:19:29 PM EST, igor455@home.com writes:

<<  rewire the system so that only your LOW FUEL LIGHT works.  That
 way, you can drive all you want and once you get LOW FUEL, quickly go to the
 gas station.  I think that #1 is better, cause the LOW FUEL beep would drive
 me nuts if I saw it every second day.  I sometimes deliberately fill before
 the yellow zone so that I don't have to hear the
 BEEEEEEEEEPSUCKER!!!!!!!!!SPEND MONEY!!!!!!!!! >>

Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you lose a lot of gas due to evaporation.
The more air in the tank, the more evaporation. Thus the fuller the tank the
less air the less evaporation. Does this sound right?
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 22:58:31 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: turkey rod run daytona....

well guys, if i were you i wouldn't plan on attending.  i just got back.  i
walked the whole swap meet area and only found 3 booths with olds parts.  two
of them only had intakes.  the other had a variety of stuff.  most of the
stuff they have is for chubbys and furds.  the only interesting stuff was
carbs and accessories.  almost bought a set of glass-packs for my 442.  well
got to go.

mikeytvb@aol.com
70 442 w/455

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 23:31:16 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: 68 442 model kit

Hey Dennis,

How much work is considered a lot???????????


Thanks 

Vinny

62 Starfire
68 Hurst/Olds

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 23:29:14 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: DRL's

Bruce,
Something you might want to check on is that in some states it is actually
illegal to drive around over a certain speed with your parking lights on.  I
think it was in VA where I first heard of this.  Doubt if anybody will give
you
a hassle but you might want to check.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>Was thinking about the DRL module I got from GM. Wanted to install it
because
>I like the twilight sentinel feature and the time delay shutoff function,
but
>after readiing some of the posts from Joe and the others, I decided to do
the
>best of both worlds. I hooked up the twilight sentinel and used my parking
>lights instead of my low beams as the DRL. Now, the parking lights are on
when
>I'm driving in daylight and the lowbeams (and parking lights) automatically
>come on at dusk when the sensor switches the DRL's off. There's also a time
>delay shutoff of up to 90 seconds. I have to tell you, it's really cool.
>Bruce
>75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course)
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 21:57:40 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Hurst Olds - 442

I don't worry much about 80's models. I am into older olds cars.  I 
don't want a PLANE JANE Cutlass, why waste the time and money?  I plan 
to keep this car. I have every car I significant car I have ever owned. 
Once I get them I don't like to part with them. That is why I am asking 
for production numbers and such. Around here nice 442's and Hurst's go 
for around $3500 to $6500. I saw a 86 (I think maybe 85) 442 for sale in 
the local trader in what the owner called excellent condition.  The 
numbers you are quoting match Grand National's around here.  I live 
close to a military base so there is a very abundant supply of cars in 
the area. I have only seen 84 Hurst's for sale. 

><< Does anyone have information on how many Hurst Olds and 442 were 
made 
> between 84 - 87.  I am thinking about buying one as a driver while 
> working on my 71 and 72 Cutlass's. Thanks
>  >>
>ok, i take it you haven't been checking up on these cars lately? :-)  

well, i
>think the only years for the hurst cars of the '80s would be '83-'84.  
there
>was a '79, i believe also.  you want one as a daily driver?  holy cow 
batman.
>if you find one in restorable condition, (not taken care of) they 
usually run
>about $5,000 or so.  but if you want a nice one, expect something more 
like
>$8-9,000.  show condition cars might be around $12,000+.  if you don't 
really
>care about the car, i wouldn't try to find a 442 or hurst, you'll worry 
about
>it too much.  just get a cutlass with a lot of options.  good luck on 
your
>choices,
>jeremy
>BIGJERMES@aol.com
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 01:05:20 EST
From: W451973@aol.com
Subject: Re: 68 442 model kit

well, i havent actually done this yet. i bought the stuff, test fit, didnt
look to good and set it aside with all of my other someday projects. im
actually gonna use an original johan 69 when i do mine, the parts fit better.
i can tell you, youll have to fill where the 69 tailights fit in the trunk
area. the hood didnt fit well, on the small side. youll have to make wing
windows for the doors. the interiors for 69 are different from 68, i dont know
what youll do there. this is one of the reasons im using the johan 69, for
some reason they never altered the 68 interior for the 69. you can find these
kits easer because they were offered by both amt and johan. its identical
except for the boxes and decals. for some reason johan did the kits of the 69
and 70 442s for both amt and themselves, in fact they did this for some of the
toronados also. yuo will also find the mpc toros were again made by johan.
hope this helped a little.                                dennis
w451973
BTW- im always looking for any oldsmobile models, parts, built ups, boxes,
junk, broken promos, anything olds                thanks

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 23:06:11 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: W-27

Just a warning, if this is an aluminum housing you should be careful of
applying too much force.  I have a helper using an old knife and a
hammer knock a chunk out of my W-O tranny trying to get the cover off.

You should be able to get it with a razor knife and a putty knife and a
small amount of force.  Once you get it started so you have a place to
work from it will come off easily.

Steven Saraceno wrote:
> 
> Well I tried the putty knife with no success.  The goop is blue - looks
> like Permatex - any other suggestions.  I still couldn't find the codes
> either.  Hum? wonder what all this means.
> 
> Also, my brother-in-law offered to bead blast the rear end and then
> powder coat the steel axle ends.  Am I better off using something like
> POR's or do I go ahead and powder coat the axle.
> 
> Steven
> 1970 W-30 442 convertible

- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 23:12:48 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Gas Gauge Blues

I'm not sure about the evaporation (sounds reasonable) but in colder
climates you will get more condensation and water in you fuel if you
keep it low all the time.  Every winter you see people stranded on the
road and you know at least some of them have frozen gas lines because
they don't fill up often enough and they park in a heated garage (warm
moist air to fill the tank).

JonKrisInc@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 11/26/98 5:19:29 PM EST, igor455@home.com writes:
> 
> <<  rewire the system so that only your LOW FUEL LIGHT works.  That
>  way, you can drive all you want and once you get LOW FUEL, quickly go to the
>  gas station.  I think that #1 is better, cause the LOW FUEL beep would drive
>  me nuts if I saw it every second day.  I sometimes deliberately fill before
>  the yellow zone so that I don't have to hear the
>  BEEEEEEEEEPSUCKER!!!!!!!!!SPEND MONEY!!!!!!!!! >>
> 
> Correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you lose a lot of gas due to 
evaporation.
> The more air in the tank, the more evaporation. Thus the fuller the tank the
> less air the less evaporation. Does this sound right?
> Bruce
> 75 Delta 88 conv.

- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 00:32:03 -0600
From: "Mark Tupper" <mtupper@palacenet.net>
Subject: Re: Hurst Olds - 442

>I don't worry much about 80's models. I am into older olds cars.  I 
>don't want a PLANE JANE Cutlass, why waste the time and money?  

Hmmm.....scary.

Anyway, the information you're looking for (from Mike Rothe's page)

There were 6000+ 83/84/88 Hurst/Olds
~3000 85 442s
  4273 86 442s
  4208 87 442s

- -Mark Tupper     1987 442    (OCA 30666)
 mtupper@palacenet.net     http://cyberglyphs.com/442/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 22:53:58 PST
From: "Roger Nienberg" <pizzaman212@hotmail.com>
Subject: front axle nut

I'm finally putting my front suspension and brakes back together on my 
69 cutlass S but I have a question about the nut that holds on the plate 
with the wheel studs on it. How tight should the nut be? I put it on 
sort of tight and the wheel doesn't spin a easily as when I leave the 
nut real loose. These are drum brakes.
 
Any help would be appreciated.
 
Roger
69 Cutlass S convert

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 01:18:27 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: 72 Tilt Steering Fix

I knwo this has been covered before, but I need to refresh my memory. On my
72 442 the steering column had a tendancy to feel a little loose. It felt
loose up and down and side to side. It is a tilit column steering. I have
the sport wheel off, the next plate off, and the plate where there is a
clip and you have to push down on the springs to get the clip off, all of
the afore mentioned is off. My question is WHAT DO YOU HAVE TO DO TO
TIGHTEN THE COLUMN? Do I have to further remove the internals? What must I
do to tighten the column? What should I watch out for that can be a
problem?

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 02:19:29 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: 68 442 model kit

Thanks Dennis,

Man  I had a 68 kit once.


Ok   so where do i find the Johan 69 or the AMT 69???


And how do we get ERTL to build a 1/18    68 Hurst/Olds or 442 die cast???

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 00:47:41 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 455 Buildup

As far as running engines above 3000 rpm, I agree that more then a few
minutes is not recommended.  My '81 Dodge Van with a 360 has 4.10 rear
gears.  I run it on cruise at 60 mph at 3200 rpm all day long and no
problem.  60 mph to 85 mph (top safe speed, RPM wise) it gets to in a flash.
Olds is a little different then dodge though.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 27 Nov 1998 23:53:29 -0800
From: Bob Blanchard <bob149@uswest.net>
Subject: '71 rear end in a '66?

What would it take to put a 1971 VC rear end in a '66 VC?
New springs and control arms?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 00:57:57 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: LS6 454 Cutlass

Hi.  I would like to build a BB Chevy motor for my Cutlass.  I was thinking
about a LS6 speck. 454 Rat.  HA HA.  Got your attention.  Anyway, I recently
asked about a L77 455 engine option, but no-one replied.  I really need to
know what the 455 option code was (L77 or L76 or W-something).  The reason
being is that my '81 Delta has its primer applied now, and
basecoat/clearcoat will be coming soon.  (next few days or so).  Since I
will stripe this car, I would also like to (maybe, depends on how it looks)
paint a engine code on the side fender, like L-77 (if that is what it is).
I don't want to be advertising what motor I have in there, but by the engine
code, only a few individuals will know what it is.  And if they do know what
the code stands for, they deserve to know what the motor is.  SO WHAT IS THE
CODE FOR  A '76 455 from a Delta 88 Royal, or where can I find this code.
My motor is modified '76 with high CR., ported heads, different cam, etc..,
but I would still like the original code.  I don't have a Cutlass and I
would not waste my time on a BB Chev.  But, LS6 is a good example.  Almost
any gearhead knows what LS6 Chevells were all about.  It did catch
everyone's attention, I am sure.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 07:42:31 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Title Search?

I know Gib was on the list so I'm unsure why this bounced; respond to
cutlass@mill.tds.net if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Gib Loudon" <cutlass@mill.tds.net>
Subject: Title search?  A little assistance please.

hi everyone,

I have a little problem....I'm sure it's been brought up before but I need
to know how I could go about doing a title search.  I would like to find out
previous owners of my car and what work has been done to it.  I have the
protect-o-plate that came with the car but it only has the original owner's
first initial and last name.  The car was bought 30 years ago this coming
sunday.  So it will be hard to tell if the original owner is still alive or
even in the same area as before.  Any advice would be helpful.  Let me know
what you find out.  Email me back personally at loud5269@kettering.edu or
cutlass@mill.tds.net .  Thanks in advance.

Gib Loudon
Cutlass Net
http://www.cutlass.net
cutlass@mill.tds.net
loud5269@kettering.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 07:49:35 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Flaps for Inner Fender Wells

On Fri, 27 Nov 1998 DROLDS350@aol.com wrote:
> Does anybody out there have any easy way of putting the inner fender seals on
> the inner wells? I know that it uses staples, but how do you get them through
> the flaps? There has to be trick to this(I hope.) Who knows what it is?

I did this during the summer and it was a pain. The staples went thru the
flaps easy enough, just took a little patience (watch your fingers!). You
have to use the original holes in the inner fenders so I taped the flaps
in place first. The hard part is bending the staples closed after they are
through since they don't want to stay in place when you put pressure on
them. I didn't find a good way of doing that on my own, would have been
good to have a helper for that part. It would have been a lot easier had
the inner fenders been out of the car. The earlier models used metal clips
to hold the flaps in place and those are a lot easier to use.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 07:50:53 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: front axle nut?

Respond to pizzaman212@hotmail.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Roger Nienberg" <pizzaman212@hotmail.com>
Subject: front axle nut

I'm finally putting my front suspension and brakes back together on my 
69 cutlass S but I have a question about the nut that holds on the plate 
with the wheel studs on it. How tight should the nut be? I put it on 
sort of tight and the wheel doesn't spin a easily as when I leave the 
nut real loose. These are drum brakes.
 
Any help would be appreciated.
 
Roger
69 Cutlass S convert

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 07:06:05 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Starfire choke

In a message dated 98-11-27 19:40:27 EST, you write:

<< The only way the choke could be a problem after
 the car reaches operating temp is if the choke is too far closed, when
 the engine now needs it open.  >>

Karl had a problem something like this recently, but turned out to be poor
fast idle due to choke plate either open too far or not far enough.

Delicate matter, the choke!

A little tinkering with the setting of the integral choke, and SOM's fast idle
was great.

But now the carb top comes off for replaccement, and the choke setting might
suffer.....

Good luck!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 07:32:11 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Lights for safety was: DRL's

Previously..

<< I hooked up the twilight sentinel and used my parking lights instead
 of my low beams as the DRL. Now, the parking lights are on when I'm 
 driving in daylight and the lowbeams (and parking lights) automatically
 come on at dusk when the sensor switches the DRL's off. There's also
 a time delay shutoff of up to 90 seconds. >>

How visible ~are~ your parking brakes in daylight?

((Uh-oh! He's gonna hallucinate!))

Karl fully agrees with Andy Green here, plus some.
Safety is not an issue to be taken lightly.

There are people in our neck of the woods that drive dark cars in rainy
conditions or at dusk with lights off.
Similarly there are others who drive white cars in snowstorms with their
lights off.

The best ordinance to come by in recent years (Karl's opinion) was that people
using their wipers must have headlights on.

In keeping with these opinions, several things have been attempted to make SOM
more visible.

First, as many exterior lights as possible are halogen (still looking into
that bulb upgrade post from a few days ago).

Secondly, Karl did attempt to install an aftermarket Hi-mount brake light, but
(as some here may recall) was thwarted by an inability to find anywhere at the
back of the car that was at ground!

Thirdly, most of the time, headlights (lo-beams) are on.
To work at night, back in the morning, AND also for highway driving at any
time.

Why?

Because sadly enough, there are careless people out there who do not bother to
"see" you coming. Even a car as big as a 1965 full size!

For your car's sake, give them every chance.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 07:43:47 -0500
From: Bob Dale <bctad5@toolcity.net>
Subject: Re: 86 Cutlass Cierra Fuel pump

Don't forget to replace all the fuel filters. Doesn't feel like a pump

> problem. seems to long range, (15 miles), for the electric pump unless
> it a
> wire grounding.
>
> -----Regards,
>
> Gary J. Couse
> Couse Customs
> mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com
>
> ICQ# 5209322 = "CC-IROC-SS"
> Personal ICQ Communication Center:
> http://wwp.mirabilis.com/5209322
>
> Custom Conversion Proto-type:
> CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
> http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
> Project Questions To:
> mailto:cc-iroc-ss@CC-IROC-SS.com
>
> The CC-IROC-SS Project Delphi Forum:
> http://forums.delphi.com/m/main.asp?sigdir=CC_IROC_SS
>
> G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
> For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
> http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
> mailto:techsupport@salemcounty.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of rkn
> Sent: Friday, November 27, 1998 7:06 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 86 Cutlass Cierra Fuel pump
>
> To all,
>         I had the displeasure today to go and retrieve my daughters 86
> Cutlass
> Cierra from the shoulder of Rt. 80 today. The car just died on her.
> When I
> got there it had been sitting for several hours and when I tried to
> start
> it, it fired right up. Unfortunatly, about 15 miles later it died
> again.
> When I pulled off the aircleaner, there was no fuel getting into the
> throttle body. Nothing at all. I added a little starting fluid and it
> fired
> right up, so I know it's not a spark problem. My instincts tell me
> that the
> fuel pump is shot. I've heard that these things are inside the gas
> tank. So
> tomorrow I intend to drop the tank and replace the little bugger. Any
> suggestions, hints, insights, (step by step instructions:-) from this
> list
> would be greatly appreciated.
>                                 Thanks in  advance,
>                                 R. Kevin Noon
>                                 66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
>                                 85 Delta 88 Royale Brougham

I think some drygas would be in order also.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 08:26:48 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1629

Igor,
 I'm a bit confused to what your bolt pattern is, but if you've changed
to an older rear that has a 5" pattern[measures 4.75"] you can use the
15X8 rims from the mid 70s-80s GM 2wd pickups. Most are "sport" wheels,
but hubcaps should still cover them. You can find plain 15X8 truck 5
bolt rims, but they are rare. Most of the plain truck rims are narrower
than 8". I have one plain 15X8 rim if you can find another one. 
Dave Brode 

> From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
> Subject: Re: 15x8 steel rims
> 
  >The only problem is I change the rear-end so my bolt pattern is
bigger.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 09:12:09 -0500
From: Bob Dale <bctad5@toolcity.net>
Subject: Re: 455 Buildup

Igor T. '81 DRB 455 wrote:

> As far as running engines above 3000 rpm, I agree that more then a few
>
> minutes is not recommended.  My '81 Dodge Van with a 360 has 4.10 rear
>
> gears.  I run it on cruise at 60 mph at 3200 rpm all day long and no
> problem.  60 mph to 85 mph (top safe speed, RPM wise) it gets to in a
> flash.
> Olds is a little different then dodge though.

  Whoa guys,
    You`re givin me alittle concern now. My 455 runs 2800 at 55mph ( at
least thats what the speedo says-should time it on the interstate
sometime). I`m breakin 3000 between 60 and 65 with 3:36s. From the way
you guys are talkin 75mph cruisin on the highway is taboo when  I think
it should be ok. I`ve known quite a few cars geared alot lower than mine
that had to run well over 3000 at 60mph. they seemed fine although
obviously engine wear would have been more per mile driven.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 09:19:02 -0500
From: Bob Dale <bctad5@toolcity.net>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: front axle nut?

Greg Beaulieu wrote:

> Respond to pizzaman212@hotmail.com if you can assist.
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia,
> Canada
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From:   "Roger Nienberg" <pizzaman212@hotmail.com>
> Subject: front axle nut
>
> I'm finally putting my front suspension and brakes back together on my
>
> 69 cutlass S but I have a question about the nut that holds on the
> plate
> with the wheel studs on it. How tight should the nut be? I put it on
> sort of tight and the wheel doesn't spin a easily as when I leave the
> nut real loose. These are drum brakes.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Roger
> 69 Cutlass S convert
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

   Roger,
   It needs to be louse enough to spin freely but tight enough so ya
don`t get alot of play side to side and top to bottom. Good time to
install new wheel bearings while you`re at it.

   Bob- 69 Cutlass S 455/400.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 08:28:33 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@MCI2000.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: front axle nut?

didnt see the original post but there is a torque setting for this nut but
using channelocks is the accepted method tighten the nut very tight then
back it off till it is loose(you can twist it with your fingers) then
tighten it again tillit touches(finger tight) then preload the bearing by
tightening the nut a 1/4" measured at the nut in rotation with the pliers
that is the near correct preload using kentucky windage the WAG and a few
other less than accurate methods this should get you in the ball park when
you install a NEW cotter pin tighten the nut to align the slot in the
castellated nut never loosen from this point...KK
now I'll put my torque pliers away along with my timing ear......KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: Bob Dale <bctad5@toolcity.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, November 28, 1998 8:22 AM
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: front axle nut?


>Greg Beaulieu wrote:
>
>> Respond to pizzaman212@hotmail.com if you can assist.
>>
>> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia,
>> Canada
>>
>> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
>> From:   "Roger Nienberg" <pizzaman212@hotmail.com>
>> Subject: front axle nut
>>
>> I'm finally putting my front suspension and brakes back together on my
>>
>> 69 cutlass S but I have a question about the nut that holds on the
>> plate
>> with the wheel studs on it. How tight should the nut be? I put it on
>> sort of tight and the wheel doesn't spin a easily as when I leave the
>> nut real loose. These are drum brakes.
>>
>> Any help would be appreciated.
>>
>> Roger
>> 69 Cutlass S convert
>>
>> ______________________________________________________
>> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>   Roger,
>   It needs to be louse enough to spin freely but tight enough so ya
>don`t get alot of play side to side and top to bottom. Good time to
>install new wheel bearings while you`re at it.
>
>   Bob- 69 Cutlass S 455/400.
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 09:53:47 -0600
From: bloom9@juno.com (C K)
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: front axle nut?

Roger, I've done this many times.

 What I do is tighten the nut until you've pushed in the large washer as
far as it will go without putting any torque pressure on the nut.

 A good way to discribe this is to just snug tighten the nut.

 I'm sure you noticed the spindle has  a hole in it for the cotter pin,
this keeps the nut from backing off since it is not torqued very tight.
If once you've snugged the nut up and you can't get the cotter pin to go
into the hole, back off the nut a little. Also, when you're done the
brake hub should spin freely ( of course this is before you adjust the
brake shoes ).

 I've never had any problem in the past.

Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass

On Sat, 28 Nov 1998 07:50:53 -0400 (AST) Greg Beaulieu
<ab348@chebucto.ns.ca> writes:
>Respond to pizzaman212@hotmail.com if you can assist.
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, 
>Canada
>
>---------- Forwarded message ----------
>From:	"Roger Nienberg" <pizzaman212@hotmail.com>
>Subject: front axle nut
>
>I'm finally putting my front suspension and brakes back together on my 
>
>69 cutlass S but I have a question about the nut that holds on the 
>plate 
>with the wheel studs on it. How tight should the nut be? I put it on 
>sort of tight and the wheel doesn't spin a easily as when I leave the 
>nut real loose. These are drum brakes.
> 
>Any help would be appreciated.
> 
>Roger
>69 Cutlass S convert
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 11:26:39 -0500
From: "George & Joan C. Lesperance" <gal1@MNSi.Net>
Subject: Re: Auctioneer

Hi Wayne:  Auctioneers are in the phonebook in your area -- they will sell
most anything.

Wayne Schwartz wrote:

> This is automotive but not necessarily Olds.  I'm acquainted with a
> family who are trying to dispose of the contents of a auto wrecking yard
> on southern Ontario.  Their 85 yr old owner father passed away
> recently.  The yard has components dating back to the 20's.  Also stored
> there was a 65 Mustang w/ 20,000 miles and a 55 Caddy w/ less than
> 30,000 miles both originally bought by the family.  Most of the parts
> are 40's-80's.  The family is interested in connecting with an auto
> auction firm to dispose of all parts.....but not the previously
> mentioned cars.  They are not interesed in selling parts to
> individuals.  Any leads on an auction firm.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 11:32:18 -0500
From: "George & Joan C. Lesperance" <gal1@MNSi.Net>
Subject: Re: Undercoat for engine paint/best bronze.

Hi Cliff:  We bought our Bronze heat resistant engine paint from Poly
Shine  of Canada Ltd.  P.O.Box 487, Toronto, Ontario, M5W 1E4
This is a very old address.    The paint is very good.  We have had it
on our engine a long time.

Cliff Simpson wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> Just a couple of quick questions;
>
>     1) Is there a way to keep engine paint from burning off
> of the heat riser?  The rest of my current engine looks good
> but the paint burnt off of the middle of the intake and now
> it's rusting.  I'll be putting a new engine together shortly
> and I want it to look good for many years.
>
>     2) Who sells the best bronze engine paint and do I have
> to buy it from a catalogue place or does someone have the
> codes for getting it mixed?
>
>     3) What undercoat should I use?
>
>     Thanks in advance.
> --
>
> Cliff Simpson
> csimpson@ucalgary.ca
> '69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 09:37:53 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 455 Buildup

>that had to run well over 3000 at 60mph. they seemed fine although
>obviously engine wear would have been more per mile driven.

You can do it.  My 455 will run fine at 3000 rpm at about 75.  It is just
that wear on the motor is higher of course.  I am personally just not
comfortable with revving it high on the highway.  I have 3.23s.  I would
like 3.55s or 3.73s but this is preventing me from doing so (unless I had
OD).  Generally, since most my cars were highway geared (2.41 on the 455 at
first, 2.56s on the Regency +OD), I am uncomfortable with higher RPMs.  I
really don't care about the VAN, so the only thing that keeps me from doing
65 mph or so is the fuel economy.  At 3000 and below it is decent.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/th2004r/propane)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 11:52:21 EST
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: OAI Air Cleaner

Hi folks! 'Need some help with an air cleaner question. Trying to get back to
stock on my 71 442. Now have a chrome open element cleaner. Want the original
OAI setup. I can find all the tubes, hold down springs, flapper doors, correct
valve covers, etc. in the catalogs, but not the actual bucket (or "body" or
"housing") that sits on the carb. Is this because no one needs them? Is it
because they're readily available through dealers or at junkyards? Are they
the same as those used in other Olds' or GM products?  Can anyone supply a
"same as" list I can refer to in my search? I'm puzzled, but sure any number
of you guys can probably straighten me out...  Thanks,

Scott

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 11:56:35 EST
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Dashboard Chrome

Can anyone help with suggestions of "chrome-like" substances to re-do parts of
my 71 dash? After so much cleaning, the chrome is gone from the pseudo A/C
vent, the fresh air vents, the bezel around the shift indicator (now just gray
plastic), etc...
Thanks,
Scott

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 12:22:47 -0500
From: Anthony Carparelli <acarpare@baan.com>
Subject: 1994 Bravada digital dash problems

I have a 1994 Bravada and the gauges on the dash have gone out most of the
time.  Sometimes the go on but most of the time they are out.  This just
happened two days ago while I was driving on the express way.  The gauges
started to get dimmer and until they went out.  I checked the fuses but they
were O.K.. Has anyone had this problem and how much will it cost to have it
fixed.  I consulted a mechanic and was told that the dash has to come out
and be sent out.  Is there another way?


Anthony Carparelli

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 10:13:07 -0800
From: Lloyd Ferguson <lloyd.ferguson@usa.net>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: front axle nut?

From my Motor's autorepair manual:

1. While rotating the hub and drum assembly at least three times the speed
of nut rotation, tighten the nut with a torque wrench 25-30 ft-lbs to
ensure that all parts are properly seated and and threads are free.

2. Back off the nut 1/2 turn, then retighten nut finger tight.

3. If unable to install cotter pin at finger tight position back off to
first notch.

At 07:50 AM 11/28/98 -0400, you wrote:
>Respond to pizzaman212@hotmail.com if you can assist.
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>---------- Forwarded message ----------
>From:	"Roger Nienberg" <pizzaman212@hotmail.com>
>Subject: front axle nut
>
>I'm finally putting my front suspension and brakes back together on my 
>69 cutlass S but I have a question about the nut that holds on the plate 
>with the wheel studs on it. How tight should the nut be? I put it on 
>sort of tight and the wheel doesn't spin a easily as when I leave the 
>nut real loose. These are drum brakes.
> 
>Any help would be appreciated.
> 
>Roger
>69 Cutlass S convert
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>

Lloyd Ferguson
lloyd.ferguson@usa.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 11:01:56 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Hurst Olds - 442

Thanks for the info.  As to you thinking this attitude is scary, I don't 
get what your thinking.  The REAL Oldsmobile Cutlass's were made in the 
60's and early 70's.  The rest is just trivial!  Might as well buy a 
good one now because in 10 years they will be worth something.

>
>>I don't worry much about 80's models. I am into older olds cars.  I 
>>don't want a PLANE JANE Cutlass, why waste the time and money?  
>
>Hmmm.....scary.
>
>Anyway, the information you're looking for (from Mike Rothe's page)
>
>There were 6000+ 83/84/88 Hurst/Olds
>~3000 85 442s
>  4273 86 442s
>  4208 87 442s
>
>-Mark Tupper     1987 442    (OCA 30666)
> mtupper@palacenet.net     http://cyberglyphs.com/442/
>
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 11:04:17 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 72 Tilt Steering Fix

Look for worn bearings.

>I knwo this has been covered before, but I need to refresh my memory. 
On my
>72 442 the steering column had a tendancy to feel a little loose. It 
felt
>loose up and down and side to side. It is a tilit column steering. I 
have
>the sport wheel off, the next plate off, and the plate where there is a
>clip and you have to push down on the springs to get the clip off, all 
of
>the afore mentioned is off. My question is WHAT DO YOU HAVE TO DO TO
>TIGHTEN THE COLUMN? Do I have to further remove the internals? What 
must I
>do to tighten the column? What should I watch out for that can be a
>problem?
>
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 14:44:34 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Rejoice with Me!!

        I finally got my Q-Jet installed this afternoon, complete with
electric choke.  I had to use an electric choke because the Edelbrock
OL4B intake I have has no provision for the hot air choke...this
particular one must have been made for a year when Olds used a divorced
style??  Anyway, this is the correct 1971 Q-Jet for the 4 bbl option for
my car that I've blabbered on about recently.  Gotta say a big
"Thankyou," to Greg Rollin at Supercars Unlimited for providing me with
a few essentials during my rebuild of the carb. It runs fine, and I'm
happy.  I still have to fine tune the idle mixture, fast and curb idle,
etc.  I just got an acceptable idle then "test drove" it (WAHOO!)  Also,
I should put in a plug for the classifieds at the 442.com website.  I
got the carb by putting a post in the "Wanted" section a few months
back.
- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 15:13:08 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hurst Olds - 442

In a message dated 11/28/98 2:04:04 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jasonshreve@hotmail.com writes:

<< The REAL Oldsmobile Cutlass's were made in the 
 60's and early 70's.  The rest is just trivial!  >>
ah, c'mon, pretty much the only thing better in the older cars was the
engines.  some people prefer the styling of the older cars as well, but the
'80s cutlass was no honda.  an '87 442 handles better than a '67 442, has 3.73
gearing along with overdrive, and its lighter.  still has steel body and frame
tho.  dont get me wrong, i like them all, my dad has 2 '67 442s, i have a '78
cutlass, and my mom has a '97 olds LSS.  my '78 has the drivetrain out of a
'87 442 and a '72 olds 350.  one '67 is totally stock, and the other one has a
455 and a 2004r.  i wont say which one is fastest. :-)
jeremy
BIGJERMES@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 15:26:27 -0200
From: BRIAN SHANKLE <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: fast idle

Yup, but only by ear and only by a couple of degrees.  I went out and
bought a $40 timing light only to get home and realize that someone had
ever so lovingly broken off the plastic timing mark indicator.  I have
yet to get another one and I strongly hesitate to touch the timing again
until I can be sure that it will be set right, since it is running well
as it is.  I have a feeling that it would be better and probably get
better mileage if it were set right, and who's to say that it was right
when I got the car?  It seems from the work that I have done on the car
thus far that it never was kept in the best condition and whoever worked
on it before me was not so much car illiterate, but he certainly didn't
do things the right way.
Brian.  

Bob Blanchard wrote:
> 
> At 12:17 PM 11/27/98 -0200, you wrote:
> >Here We Go Again! :-)
> >
> >I have almost successfully changed the carb in my 307 Y powered 86
> >Cutlass Supreme.  I got a 52k mile carb from a Monte Carlo, which works
> >fine except for one thing.  I can't get the idle to go down, and
> >although I don't have a tachometer, I am willing to guess it to be
> >around 2500-3000 RPM.
> 
> when the old carb was on the engine did you ever advance the timing
> to get it to run better?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 15:38:47 -0500
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Cierra Fuel pump

My thanks to those who responded to my post. As it turned out, the thing
started up this morning but stalled after only 2-3 minutes. However, I
could hear the fuel pump running when I turned the key on, but it shut off
within a few seconds. Obviously, because I didn't start the engine. But it
turned on and off every time I turned the key on. So I replaced the fuel
filter, dumped in a bottle of dry gas, started it, and let it run for a
while. No problem until I moved the dern thing. Then it dropped dead again.
But I could still hear the pump running when I turned the key on. So I went
to the relay. All I really did is move things around, (hunting for broken
or frayed wires) and cleaned off some of the gook that had accumulated
around the connector. The thing's been running fine ever since. I drove it
for about 30 minutes around the neighborhood with no problem. I'm letting
it cool off and will try again later. I think if it fails I'll replace the
relay and see what happens then. Anything but the fuel pump.
My thanks again.
				R. Kevin Noon	
				66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
				85 Delta 88 Royale Brougham        and now 
permanently attached at the
wrench to an	86 Cutlass Cierra

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 14:59:08 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: painting grill

Ed, 
Your choice!  Sand it, wouldn't use under 320 grit, otherwise you will see
sanding marks when you respray. Paint WILL stick OK, clean it with lacquer
thinner or a commercial paint prep cleaner. Don't touch it after cleaning
except with a tack rag, A MUST!  Don't dip it, may have problems, could get
soft. Flat black looks the best but it shows everything, rain spots, dirt,
and etc. I would use a semi gloss, less upkeep, a matter of choice though.
Good luck.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net


- ----------
> From: Edward Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
> To: Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: painting grill
> Date: Thursday, November 26, 1998 9:35 PM
> 
> My '75 Salon has plastic grills with some sort of chromish coating. I
guess
> you could call it chrome plated plastic. I want to black it out. Before I
> get flamed, I've made up my mind, it's my car and that's the look I want
. .
> . NYAA!
> Anyway, does anyone know what it takes to paint over this stuff? Can the
> chrome be removed? I know acids corrode ionic material (i.e., metals),
but
> most plastics are unaffected by acids. Can parts like this be acid dipped
to
> remove the chrome?
> I've roughed up the chrome a bit with coarse sandpaper with the hopes
that
> paint will stick to it like it is. What do you think?
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 15:01:48 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: fast idle

>Yup, but only by ear and only by a couple of degrees.  I went out and
>bought a $40 timing light only to get home and realize that someone had
>ever so lovingly broken off the plastic timing mark indicator.  I have
>yet to get another one and I strongly hesitate to touch the timing again
>until I can be sure that it will be set right, since it is running well
>as it is

If you have an adjustable timing light (the most accurate) all you have to
do
is to rig up a temporary pointer.  Pull the #1 spark plug and have a friend
bump the motor over while you hold your finger over the spark plug hole.
When the motor blows your finger off the hole you know its on the comp.
stroke.  Now you have to find TDC.  Take a thin screwdriver and a flashlight
and look down the hole and have your friend turn the motor by hand.  Turn
the motor both ways until you've found TDC (piston at highest travel).  When
you look at the crank wherever the timing mark is on the balancer just
needs a pointer now.  You can make a temporary pointer out of a piece of
wire (paper clip?) and bend it so you can stick it under a bolt head and it
will lign up with the mark on the balancer.  You now have true TDC.  All you
have to do now is to set the timing to 0 degrees using the knob on the
back of the timing light and read the advance off of it.  If you didn't buy
an
adjustable timing light I highly suggest exchanging it.  They are very
useful
and a necessity for checking dist. curve, total timing, etc.  You may wish
down the road that you did.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 17:10:22 -0500
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@pa.net>
Subject: 1947 Olds Custom Cruiser : Hot Rod or keep Original?  

Well, I got some h#lp from the list ... and other semi-interested
parties. The problem is ... many advise me to customize. Part of the 
rationale is that parts for customizing ... engine, drive-train, tranny, 
buckets are easily available. Parts for a 47 Custom Cruiser may not be ....

I am learning strongly in the direction of keeping it as factory
   as possible ... not many of these around, or so I'm told.

I'd like to hear some thoughts on the whole question of
hotrod vs restoration.  

Ken Swick
swickka@pa.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 16:13:17 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: fast idle

Brian, 
You can keep bumping it up until you start to hear "pinging", ONLY 2 or 3
pings about 30 mph in high gear, full throttle, or with automatic, as much
throttle you can use before hitting "kickdown gear", as long as you know
what total advance is built into distr. Don't want to go above 40 to 42
degrees total. if you hear "pinging" at any other time, Back it down. This
is for average cars, not a "hemi, or a 14 to 1 comp. ratio, or damn sure,
not nitrous.
Lou.
- ----------
> From: BRIAN SHANKLE <cshankle@home.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: fast idle
> Date: Saturday, November 28, 1998 11:26 AM
> 
> Yup, but only by ear and only by a couple of degrees.  I went out and
> bought a $40 timing light only to get home and realize that someone had
> ever so lovingly broken off the plastic timing mark indicator.  I have
> yet to get another one and I strongly hesitate to touch the timing again
> until I can be sure that it will be set right, since it is running well
> as it is.  I have a feeling that it would be better and probably get
> better mileage if it were set right, and who's to say that it was right
> when I got the car?  It seems from the work that I have done on the car
> thus far that it never was kept in the best condition and whoever worked
> on it before me was not so much car illiterate, but he certainly didn't
> do things the right way.
> Brian.  

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 16:18:33 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 1947 Olds Custom Cruiser : Hot Rod or keep Original?  

Ken,
It's whatever you want to do.  After all it's your car.  Most people say
they have a restored whatever but at some point most of them make
some kind of concessions to drivability, comfort, and safety so that
technically there car isn't fully "restored".  Personally I like to upgrade
things and have the best driver I can afford.  You can modify your car
and still have the original look but with an updated drivetrain and such.
Basically it's your money, your car, and your time.  If you want to have
it all original go for it though it may cost you more than swapping parts
out to make it a hot rod.  I personally see no problem in modifying a
car since you can usually figure out a way to do it that doesn't make
you cut holes and therefore makes it easy to restore in the future.
If you do modify it, save all the gennie pieces.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme



>Well, I got some h#lp from the list ... and other semi-interested
>parties. The problem is ... many advise me to customize. Part of the
>rationale is that parts for customizing ... engine, drive-train, tranny,
>buckets are easily available. Parts for a 47 Custom Cruiser may not be ....
>
>I am learning strongly in the direction of keeping it as factory
>   as possible ... not many of these around, or so I'm told.
>
>I'd like to hear some thoughts on the whole question of
>hotrod vs restoration.
>
>Ken Swick
>swickka@pa.net
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 16:24:43 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: 1947 Olds Custom Cruiser : Hot Rod or keep Original?  

Ken, 
If you can keep it stock, it would be fantastic, but parts for such an
animal is tough, hell I can't find parts for the "75". you will probably
end up with a"455, th400, different rear end", but thats not so bad. Keep
the exterior as close to stock as you can, except maybe, wheels and tires.
interior is your show, so what ever turns you on. Keep the dash as close to
stock as possible, exception, necessary gauges, and etc. Wish you well.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
PS One persons opinion! 

- ----------
> From: Ken Swick <swickka@pa.net>
> To: oldsmobile bb <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: 1947 Olds Custom Cruiser : Hot Rod or keep Original?  
> Date: Saturday, November 28, 1998 4:10 PM
> 
> Well, I got some h#lp from the list ... and other semi-interested
> parties. The problem is ... many advise me to customize. Part of the 
> rationale is that parts for customizing ... engine, drive-train, tranny, 
> buckets are easily available. Parts for a 47 Custom Cruiser may not be
...
> 
> I am learning strongly in the direction of keeping it as factory
>    as possible ... not many of these around, or so I'm told.
> 
> I'd like to hear some thoughts on the whole question of
> hotrod vs restoration.  
> 
> Ken Swick
> swickka@pa.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 17:12:37 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: 1947 Olds Custom Cruiser : Hot Rod or keep Original?

> I'd like to hear some thoughts on the whole question of
> hotrod vs restoration.

        First, you have to do what YOU want to do to the car.  But, a friend of
mine had a '48 Job-Rated Dodge Ram pickup that was nearly original...still had
the flat-head six, the double-clutch tranny and rear-end geared low enough to
pull a house.  All it really needed was the correct rear taillights and a few
other incidentals.  Anyway, he really wanted to make a street rod out of it.
So...after several thousand dollars and a still incomplete truck, and being
cheated by supposed "experts," he realized that he could have completely
restored it for far less than he spent to rod it.  But, he still would have
wanted a street rod.

What's the moral of the story?  Whatever you do, count the cost.  Sure, some
restoration parts may be hard to find, but be sure they do exist. If the car is
close enough to original, you may spend more to make a rod out of it than to
restore it.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 16:46:35 -0600
From: bloom9@juno.com (C K)
Subject: model cars

I been watching with interest the thread that was going about the '66
Cutlass and the other models. 

So, I told myself I'd better get down to Wally World and see if they have
one.

Man, was I pleased!! What I found was not a '66, but a '67 442 that
features the W-30 option!! Yes, the car is painted red on the box and is
an exact reproduction on 1\25 scale.

It's made by Lindberg and is a skill level 2 (glue & paint required). On
the bottom panel of the box there's actual pictures of a real 442 engine
compartment and interior, which is just like mine except mine is black.
The kit number is 72171. The price was $8.88 on sale.

And yes, I bought two :-p.

Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 18:18:42 EST
From: W451973@aol.com
Subject: Re: 68 442 model kit

first thing is expect to pay at least 75.00 for a nice kit, could even go as
high as 150.00, i know this isnt much better but its a start. next, where do
you live? youll want to keep an eye out for some toy shows. ill check with
some of my connections for you, and as always ill keep an eye open. i dont
have any shows planned until january myself, in the mean time stay in touch,
to let me know if your still looking.     ok? i take it you want to build a
model of your 68 hurstolds. if so, i dont know how detailed you want to get,
youll want to get the ertl amt 69 hurst, for the dualgate and console, this
also has a sweet chasis and olds engine. this kit goes for about 20.00 bucks
now, good news is ertl is rereleasing this 69 in a three pac with two other
cars, dont remember what they are, early 99. for the three spoke rally
steering wheel, youll want the revell 67 ss chevelle. guess you can tell iv
already planned mine out. well i think thats it, if you have any ????? feel
free to email me directly.       take care. dennis         w451973@aol.com  

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 18:32:27 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: 1947 Olds Custom Cruiser : Hot Rod or keep Original?

Ken Swick wrote:
> 
> Well, I got some h#lp from the list ... and other semi-interested
> parties. The problem is ... many advise me to customize. Part of the
> rationale is that parts for customizing ... engine, drive-train, tranny,
> buckets are easily available. Parts for a 47 Custom Cruiser may not be ....
> 
> I am learning strongly in the direction of keeping it as factory
>    as possible ... not many of these around, or so I'm told.
> 
> I'd like to hear some thoughts on the whole question of
> hotrod vs restoration.

Well, I vote, as usual, for the restoration.  I think of these older
vehicles as automotive history that should be kept around in original
shape whenever possible.  It will probably be somewhat difficult to find
some parts for it, but that is some of the fun/frustration.  Of course,
since my oldest car is a 69 and the newest resto project is a 72, I
haven't had THAT much problems in finding pieces.  Now finding good
pieces is a different matter.  I will say that trying to find new
quarters for a 71 GS455 convertible was a waste of time.  When GM ran
out of them, that was it as there weren't enough manufactured to make it
worthwhile for anyone, as far as I know, to repo them.  That's the
reason it is sitting in the garage with rusty quarters next to the 70
Supreme convertible waiting its' turn at the body shop.  

Back to your question though, it's your car, do as you see fit.  If it
were my car, I would try to restore it because that is my take on
things.  If the car had no motor, trans, interior, etc then that is a
different matter.  Because if the parts aren't available you don't have
any other choice but to change it from stock.   Either way you go, good
luck to you.  The 1947 would look neat rolling down the road when it's
done.  

Don SOwers

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 18:55:25 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: DRL's

In a message dated 98-11-24 16:24:14 EST, you write:

<< Only downside was when I drove to Boston that summer everyone kept
 reminding me that I had my headlights on in the daytime. :)  I assume they
 are common enough down there now that you don't get that any more. >>

Alas, not so.

We were spinning down to Peoria, with my low beams engaged. After passing a
Minivan or SUV (just a blur really), that was in the left lane [FLAMES
deleted], the operator indicated with his headlights that mine were on. Like I
could do something about that anyway!

Rest easy!

SOM

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 18:55:29 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Oops, I need TH400

Sorry for delay, was going through old stuff to free up some MB when..



 If I understand right, the only ones that will fit are
 > from a '68 - '72 Buick, Olds, or Pontiac A-body...  Correct?  Ch*vy TH400
 > won't work, will it?  Also, doesn't the drive shaft need to be modified?
 > Can I use a driveshaft from a '68 or '68 442?
 ________
 
 Correct, you need a short-tailshaft TH400, from a 67-72 A-body (yes, 1967
 will work).  The Chevy trans uses a different bolt pattern than the rest of
 GM, so you don't want that one.  The driveshaft from any 68-72 A-body 2
 door will work (Chevy included), or you can have your current one shortened
 to fit.  The front yoke on the driveshaft is different for a TH400, so you
 need to make sure you have the correct one. 
Joe Padavano
<snip>

Sorry if this is too late, but our esteemed Mr. Chris Brown Witt had a 1965-67
TH400 put in a short tailshaft housing and added the receptacle for speedo
cable (as the early years had the speedo cable running to the front right
wheel!).
Yup. Karl believes it is a TH400 with variable-vane torque converter.

And it is for sale!
(or Karl might not have mentioned!)

Dunno if early-late flexplate conflict was acounted for during the mods.

Anyone with genuine interest should send private Email to Karl and Karl will
provide CBW's Tel# as am not positive his old Email is still valid.

Just thought it might help...

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 28 Nov 1998 18:55:36 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Rationalizations. was: DRL's

In a message dated 98-11-25 14:06:32 EST, you write:

<< Yeah, that's why I broke down and finally ordered a brand new truck.  I
 figured I could spend my time fixing and restoring the old one, or I could
 spend that time on the Oldsmobiles.  It got to the point that the current
 truck needs a new motor, trans, steering box, PS pump, and many body panels
 replaced.  Of course, while I'm replacing the motor, I mightaswell spring
 for the crate 502, or worse, adapt a 455 Olds...you can see that the only
 way to nip this one in the bud is to bail out and get a new one... 
Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com>>

Well, that is where we differ.
Karl would rather stay with what he knows and lollygag over the work :-)}
than aquire a ~new~ vehicle with an engine that is quite radical compared to
what he has knowledge about now!

Much in the same way that Karl is not eager to disassemble a Wankle rotary
engine, also not looking forward to the posibility of serpentine timing belts,
electric Qjets (certainly not EFI!!), and dealership-only electronic chips
that are $600 each and all 7 fry at the same time. Prefer spark plugs that are
visible to the naked eye.

Karl is much better of going into the metal fabrication buisiness first. Repro
later.
(1907 cam? Sure! ... What're the specs?)

SOM

&KA

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1630
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