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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1729


oldsmobile-digest     Saturday, January 23 1999     Volume 01 : Number 1729



Re: Fw: Vega
Re: Olds History Center procedures
re: blast cabinet Qs
Re: Opinions on Ga BB heads.
Re: Thermostats, is there a difference?
Re: Opinions on Ga BB heads.
speedo adapters/professional parts clerks
Re: speedo adapters/professional parts clerks
Re: speedo adapters/professional parts clerks
Paint - reply privately - non-member
Re: Speakers for a 75 C/S
Re: speedo adapters/professional parts clerks
Re: 215 Turbo Info
UNBOUNCE: Paint - reply privately - non-member
Re: 86 Cutlass Rallye gauges
Re: Boring early 400 block
Re: Olds History Center procedures
Re: Olds History Center procedures
Re: Speakers for a 75 C/S
Mondello / Deceased ?
455 for sale?
RE:1979 W31 >R. Grant asked??
Re: Olds History Center procedures
Re: 86 Cutlass Rallye gauges (LONG)
Re: 215 Turbo Info
Re: 215 Turbo Info
Re: 215 Turbo Info
Re: 215 Turbo Info
Re: 86 Cutlass Rallye gauges (LONG)
Re: 215 Turbo Info
Re: Olds History Center procedures
Re: 215 Turbo Info
Re: 215 Turbo Info
RE: 215 Turbo Info
Re: HEI Question and comment (not trying to run this in the ground...but)
Re: stealing was hei
Re: Speedo trans adapters
Distributor Positioning
Re: Distributor Positioning
Re: [Re: stealing was hei]
Sway bars again.
sensors and senders
Re: Carb Spacer, Status
Wire hubcaps
Re: Distributor Positioning
RE:1979 W31 -R. Grant asked??
Re: 1979 W31 -R. Grant asked??
Re: HEI Question and comment (not trying to run this in the ground...but)
need parts (74)
Re: Carb Spacer, Status
Air Shocks
Re: stealing was hei
Congrats to the G-body list
Johnny Lighting Cars
Re: need parts (74)
Re: Speedo Trans Adapter
Re: Air Shocks

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 08:41:59 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: Vega

> You had a Vega, help him out, we had dinner, he paid, really
> I should have since he took it the darn thing, could you fill
> him on the necessary info on Vegas, and their upkeep.

(Copying the Olds list on this so you can count your blessings :-)

Vega Maintenance:

I had one. My first car. Paid $50 for it in 1984: a '74 GT Kammback
(what everyone else calls a wagon). Total rustbucket, tailgate held
down with string because slamming it shut one day punched the rusted
latch assembly off its mounting. But anyway...

1) It got a zillion miles per gallon (combining gas with oil :-)
2) The air cleaner assembly was one of those great ideas that
   went nowhere, maybe fortunately so: a 50,000-mile unit in a
   sealed aluminum case. First thing I did when I got the car was
   to nab a new one while they still existed. Gawd knows where you'd
   find one of those now. Maybe you could swap in a K&N unit or
   something like that.
3) Tailgate was counterbalanced with actual springs, like a trunk
   lid, instead of those stupid gas-charged cylinder lifts that 
   spring leaks after two years
3) Chintzy oil-burner of an engine, but the hang-on parts were all
   standard GM: alternator, A/C compressor, etc. so it was pretty
   reliable on the whole. (Yes I AM still talking about the Vega
   here.) The A/C worked perfectly. Even the clock still ticked.
   Cool little details like an idle solenoid, or something, that
   clicked off whenever you depressed the clutch in order to get
   engine rpms down as quickly as possible when upshifting, and
   re-engaged when you touched the gas pedal. Would kill time when
   stuck in traffic sitting in neutral by tapping the gas, then the
   clutch, and hearing the idle speed click up and down...
4) "Standard GM" also means the usual problems: clutch cable broke
   one day. Floor rusted through, and lower door seams flapped in
   the breeze.
5) Replacement parts incredibly cheap from junkyards, who were
   awash in Vegas, so you could cherry-pick the cream of the
   replacement parts for ludicrously low prices: $7 for a fender,
   $25 for a door, $25 for replacement tailgate.

Sold it after 2 good years in 1986 for $500. In that time I'd put
on the above body panels and a set of tires, that's about all.
And hey, I thought it was a damn cute little car, too. It was a
blast to drive, even though the whole car would smell of hot burnt
oil after a spirited driving session, and it got me around just
fine. I miss it!

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 11:48:33 -0500
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Olds History Center procedures

Mail stop # should read 489111040, sorry 'bout that.

>Here's what you have to do to get info.
>
>Send $15.00 check made out to Oldsmobile Division to:
>
>Oldsmobile History Center
>920 Townsend Street
>Lansing, MI 48921
>
>The recording says you have to include a mail stop number, which is
>48911104. I guess you put that in the address (2nd line) or somewhere on
the
>envelope.
>
>You need to include your vin number and a pencil rubbing of your cowl tag.
>(firewall plate according the the recording)
>
>Randy
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 10:57:42 -0600
From: "Darrin Johnson" <xdarrinj@ti.com>
Subject: re: blast cabinet Qs

Dan,

I purchased that cabinet from Harbor Freight when I was looking for a cheap
cabinet.  I was not happy with it and sent it back.  The bottom of the
cabinet is not angled enough or smooth enough for the media to recirculate
properly.  It also leaked pretty badly.  I decided to spend the money for a
better cabinet and am happy with my barrel blaster (www.barrelblaster.com).
It is more that your $200 limit, but a good cabinet for the price ($289).

Darrin Johnson
xdarrinj@ti.com
djohnsn@ibm.net



>Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 21:11:14 -0600
>From: Dan Williams <442much@plutonium.net>
>Subject: blast cabinet Qs
>
>I'm thinking of buying a cheap blast cabinet from Harbor freight.  They
>have a Central Pneumatic 25.5"Wx22"Hx17.25"D benchtop cabinet for $89 on
>sale.  I have used a professional full size cabinet and it was great.
>I'm wondering how well these smaller and cheaper cabinets work.  Can I
>use my shop vac for a dust collector, or do I need a real dust
>collector?  Is this cabinet worth it?  Is there anything else better for
>under $200?  Any suggestions welcome.
>
>TIA,
>
>Dan
>- --
>Dan Williams                            442Much@plutonium.net
>Marion, IA                                     68 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 12:11:23 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Opinions on Ga BB heads.

>I have an opportunity to buy a nice '72 455 at a good price, that is
>ready to go, but it has Ga heads on it. Opinion's here regarding
>performance? This will be a street performance setup, with 5500 max
>RPM's. 

Assuming small-valve heads, it will work fine, or perhaps even better at
low rpm, than a built motor

>I have a 1970 Toro 455 w/big valve E heads that I originally was going
>to build, but I can get this '72 455 for less than I can comparably
>build the '70 right now, plus I can save the '70 for a later date :)

Good plan; kinda what I've got going on in my SX right now- a decent strong
motor giving me kicks while I get something serious worked out with the
original block, which allows me the luxury of investing time in the motor.

>The motor has all the goodies, nodular crank, balanced, forged pistons,
>new fasteners. I guess my real question is, do Ga heads flow worth
>anything? Would anyone feel that the E heads would be a noticeable
>improvement?

The difference would be negligible. In fact, Chris W's measurements of the
Ga's ports showed them to have larger dimensions than earlier heads (B's
and E's, I think). Whatever the case, there's probably more variation
between different batches of the same casting than there is between
different castings.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 12:17:54 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Thermostats, is there a difference?

>	After seeing a few threads about thermostats and such, I was
>wondering why you would use a Robert-Shaw Thermostat over any one at the
>local parts store?  The name is new to me...

The rumor is that they have less chance of hanging open, since they don't
have a small point that can catch on the housing when it opens up. That
happened to a standard-style thermostat I had put in my 403 once, but not
with the Robert Shaw unit. 

OTOH, I just replaced the Shaw thermostat in my 403, because I thought it
might have been sticking (this time, closed). I'll have to drop it in some
water with a meat thermometer and see if it is indeed sticking. Seems that
the 403 is now running at about 200' with the new 180' thermostat, so I
have to check if *that* one is mislabeled, or if there is a bigger problem. :(

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 12:30:16 -0500
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Opinions on Ga BB heads.

If you or Igor or anyone else out there want to sell a set of Ga heads drop
me an e-mail. randygeisel@prodigy.net

I want to swap the C-heads and Torker intake from my '72 H/O to the 455 I'm
building for the Cutlass. I want to get the H/O back to original. Need Ga
heads and a stock '72 intake.

Thanks,
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 12:58:38 EST
From: Oldsparts@aol.com
Subject: speedo adapters/professional parts clerks

Speed Adapters:

We get at least three calls a week regarding speedo adapters-I'll have to
start selling these things.  Most of the speedo adapters we have worked with
here are made by Stewart-Warner.  Stewart-Warner used to have a Kansas City
warehouse, and we used to be able to pick them up there.  It has long  closed
and we have used a local Kansas City speedometer service  place to get them.
Most major cities have at least one speedo repair place.  Call them.  If all
else fails, call Kansas City Speedometer, in K.C.  They can help.

Professional parts clerks:

My favorite was the Western Auto clerk wearing an "I am an auto parts
professional" button, banging away on his "computer catalog", asking how many
cylinders the chevy 350 in my Suburban had!  I didn't bother to ask him what
the gap was.....

Steve

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 11:14:22 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: speedo adapters/professional parts clerks

Oldsparts@aol.com wrote:
> 
> <snip>
> My favorite was the Western Auto clerk wearing an "I am an auto parts
> professional" button, banging away on his "computer catalog", asking how many
> cylinders the chevy 350 in my Suburban had!  I didn't bother to ask him what
> the gap was.....
> 
> Steve
ROTFLMAO

I had a tune up done at a reputable place once and the cost included over $100
for spark plugs.  I was "discussing" this with the clerk who was sure he was
correct when the owner wandered by.  The owner quickly showed the clerk the
mistake, he was charging me for _64_ spark plugs:). Yikes.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 13:37:52 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: speedo adapters/professional parts clerks

A
>
>I had a tune up done at a reputable place once and the cost included over
$100
>for spark plugs.  I was "discussing" this with the clerk who was sure he was
>correct when the owner wandered by.  The owner quickly showed the clerk the
>mistake, he was charging me for _64_ spark plugs:). Yikes.
>-- 
>
>Cliff Simpson
>csimpson@ucalgary.ca
>'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
>http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson
>
>
=====


=====
So how much horsepower was that 64 cylinder putting out? I'll bet thats a
bitch to put plug wires on.

Omega man
'74 Omega S 455

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 12:39:21 -0600
From: <Michael_Baugher/MO/americancentury@americancentury.com>
Subject: Paint - reply privately - non-member

If anyone has ever had a car that they've had painted a MAACO please
contact me. I know the general feeling from auto buffs regarding MAACO but
I want the facts from folks who've used them. I have a car that I'll be
having painted soon and I'm on a budget that doesn't allow for a $3000
paint job. I've done all the body work and the car would be painted in
parts - body, doors, fenders hood, trunk, and reassembled at home. I figure
a professional body shop, even the ever-slammed MAACO can spray a car as
well as I could.

If you've used MAACO, please contact me. I'm not seeking opinions from
anyone who hasn't used them. I just want the facts.

Thanks in advance. I've been a member for a year or so but had to sign off
for a while so please contact me privately.

Mike Baugher
69 Cutlass S convertible.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 13:47:44 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Speakers for a 75 C/S

In a message dated 1/22/99 10:45:06 AM EST, creme1ma@cmich.edu writes:

<<  Where is a good source for two front speakers for a 75 C/S 4dr? >>

Radio Shack has the 31/2" speakers and they're pretty decent.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 13:50:27 EST
From: Lou0118@aol.com
Subject: Re: speedo adapters/professional parts clerks

In a message dated 01/22/1999 1:38:35 PM Eastern Standard Time,
ggilpin@wrallp.com writes:

<< So how much horsepower was that 64 cylinder putting out? I'll bet thats a
 bitch to put plug wires on.
 
 Omega man
 '74 Omega S 455
  >>

I'd like to see the firing order diagram.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 13:52:40 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 215 Turbo Info

I'm surprised the first response to this is from me and not one of the
A/G/X body guys...
_________

Sorry, I was on a plane...   ;-)

=============

   ...anyway, the '62 and '63 Jetfire had the turbo 215.  They had the high
compression of the stock 215, with a water injection system to prevent
pinging.  Later owners failed to recognize the importance of keeping this
filled, and a lot of Jetfires had big
problems later in life because of this, hence low survival of turbo 215s.
_________

Yep.  Usually the owners trashed the turbo setup when the motor was rebuilt
and went with a conventional 4bbl setup.

=============

I believe the Jetfire used the same turbo as the turbo Corvair, but I
could easily be mistaken (looong time ago).
________

I don't think so.  It was a Garrett TO-3 with an integral wastegate, the
first.  Unfortunately, due to the 10:1 compression ratio, boost was limited
to only 5 psi, not the best use of a turbo.  In Oldsmobile's defense, they
were attempting to overcome boost lag by using the high compression.  Nice
try, but obviously it had practial problems.

=============

  I'm also pretty sure the turbo Jetfire used a 1-bbl. carb, for some
presumably perfectly good reason that escapes me now.
________

Correct again.  A Rochester Model Y(?) one barrel side-draft (!) carb.
This _was_ the same carb used on the Turbo Corvair.  Since it's a
pressure-fed motor, the flow rate of the carb was more than adequate, and
the side-draft design not only packaged nicely under the hood but also
bolted directly to the compressor intlet on the turbo.  Contrast this
design to that of the later Buick turbo cars which used conventional
down-draft carbs and an ugly right angle adapter.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

Mike Sealey
'69 Ninety Eight Holiday Sedan

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 14:59:39 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Paint - reply privately - non-member

Mike's no longer on the list, so contact him directly at
Michael_Baugher/MO/americancentury@americancentury.com if you can assist. 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	<Michael_Baugher/MO/americancentury@americancentury.com>
Subject: Paint - reply privately - non-member

If anyone has ever had a car that they've had painted a MAACO please
contact me. I know the general feeling from auto buffs regarding MAACO but
I want the facts from folks who've used them. I have a car that I'll be
having painted soon and I'm on a budget that doesn't allow for a $3000
paint job. I've done all the body work and the car would be painted in
parts - body, doors, fenders hood, trunk, and reassembled at home. I figure
a professional body shop, even the ever-slammed MAACO can spray a car as
well as I could.

If you've used MAACO, please contact me. I'm not seeking opinions from
anyone who hasn't used them. I just want the facts.

Thanks in advance. I've been a member for a year or so but had to sign off
for a while so please contact me privately.

Mike Baugher
69 Cutlass S convertible.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 13:45:26 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: 86 Cutlass Rallye gauges

> <snip>
>
> I found out _how_ delicate it was when I painted the tach needle of
> my old Trans Am with fluorescent red paint from a bottle. The one
> coat I brushed on the needle was so heavy it screwed up the reading.
> Next time I'll mask the whole area and dust on a light coating of
> spray paint instead.
>
> -- Andy
>

One of the best ways to restore or otherwise color indicator needles
without upsetting the balance is to use a light touch from a felt tipped
marker. The ink is not nearly as heavy as paint.
My $.02

Mark Hahn

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 13:52:21 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: Boring early 400 block

Uh, the only flaw in that logic is that 425s carry a cast letter "D" and
a
different casting number from the short stroke 400 blocks (either "B" or
"E", depending on year).  Obviously the castings were different to start
with.

Joe Padavano
- ----------
Dooh!! Yeah, I guess a different cast in ID letter would preclude that.
I told you it was a wild guess!

- --
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 12:04:57 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re: Olds History Center procedures

>Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 11:31:34 -0500
>From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
>Subject: Olds History Center procedures

>Here's what you have to do to get info.

>Send $15.00 check made out to Oldsmobile Division to:

>Oldsmobile History Center
>920 Townsend Street
>Lansing, MI 48921

>The recording says you have to include a mail stop number, which is
>48911104. I guess you put that in the address (2nd line) or somewhere on
the
>envelope.

>You need to include your vin number and a pencil rubbing of your cowl tag.
>(firewall plate according the recording)

>Randy

Randy,
	Just curious what does the $15.00 get you?  What information do you
receive?  Anyone done this yet?  If so how long does it take to receive the
information.

Thanx


Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 15:11:38 EST
From: Jon442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds History Center procedures

What do you get for $15?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 15:26:22 -0500
From: Jeff Mullenix <muxx@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Speakers for a 75 C/S

At 11:57 PM 1/21/1999 EST, you wrote:
>Where is a good source for two front speakers for a 75 C/S 4dr?
>
>Bernie
>

Crutchfield, <www.crutchfield.com>, 1-800-955-3000.  They make them for
just about every car. Good prices.

Jeff

70 4spd Conv.
72 Cutlass Supreme
85 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 14:39:31 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Mondello / Deceased ?

Not to start a horrible rumor but a fellow machinist told me that he seen
Joe Mondello featured on TNN. The feature was a tribute to him because he
died just recently. I think he was mistook it for Moroso, who died, not
Mondello. Anyway, can someone clear this up......

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 12:55:33 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: 455 for sale?

I found a 75 455 for sale.  They want $150 for it.  My question is this 
a good engine to start with?  It says it needs a rebuild.  I have been 
looking for one for my 72.  It think I should try to find an older one.  
What does everyone else think?
Thanks.

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 13:47:23 -0800
From: michael r m <miglenda@bc.sympatico.ca>
Subject: RE:1979 W31 >R. Grant asked??

Hello 'R. Grant,
I have a friend who has [purchased new] a 1970 W31 Convertible. The car
wa parked for nearly 10 years as he one day wanted to resole it. That he
has done last year. Nice car.  Do not know a whole lot about them but he
has one so I presume they built them. I know he has told me of the
"numbers" but I guess i was not paying enough attention at the time. The
car was purchased in Calgary Alberta new.  In 1972 he moved to the west
coast, [vancouver bc area] Langley, B.C.,  and this is where it is, of a
matter of interest only. Correct me if I am wrong, but I believe they
call the color 'butter nut' yellow???
with a similar color top with Black interior. Of coarse the Black
'racing stripes over hood and trunk. See ya.
michael

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 16:55:28 -0500
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Olds History Center procedures

>What do you get for $15? How long does it take?

I haven't done this yet.  They were in the middle of their move when I tried
before. I've heard that you get whatever info they have on your car. Sales
slip, build info, picture etc.....

I've also heard they don't have info before 1973........hope this isn't
true. I want to find out about my '72 H/O. Gonna head down to the paintshop
tomorrow and get the cowl rubbing and send it off Monday.
I'll let you know what happens.

I know other guys on the list have done this already. I'm gonna have to let
them give us the facts.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 14:06:16 PST
From: "scott slater" <slater442w30@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 86 Cutlass Rallye gauges (LONG)

Okay I have done an entire Rallye Pack in a car with stock idiot lights.  
The first thing you have to do after getting the new gauges you should 
check the tach for a little plug with the numbers 6 and 8 next to it.  
You will have to plug the plug into either the 6 or 8 depending on your 
engine.  The rest of the gauges are incredibly accurate if you clean the 
contacts and make sure all the nuts on the gauges are tight.  NEVER EVER 
wipe a rag across the gauge fronts.  The white paint will smear like 
nothing else.  Check all the bulbs and make sure they all work.  For the 
tach you need to find the middle hookup labeled for the distributer cap 
and remove the metal clip from the actual gauge package because if you 
don?t and hook up the gauges it can fry the ignition module (a 60 dollar 
mistake I won?t make again) You must instead run a wire from the post to 
the HEI cap.  It already has a port labeled tach on it  While in the 
wrecking yard you will need to get the different sending units for the 
oil pressure and the water temp.  If you can?t get to them you can buy 
them new but they?re spendy.  After replacing the sending units and 
hooking up the tach you can plug the gauges into the dash for the fun of 
it and see if they will work wired up that way.  The car I converted was 
a Diesel changeover and it took me about 2 days of free time to get the 
gauges wired in right.  On the car I worked on I had to remove all the 
wires from the gauge harness (little white clip full of wires behind the 
gauges) and track down every damn wire with test lights and swearing 
then I had to match those up to the gauges and put them back into the 
clip in order to make them work.  The tach is supposed to sit a little 
higher when the key is off.  I have added a tach into my Cutlass and 
added the whole cluster from one car to another so I have got a pretty 
good idea about what I?m talking about but if these directions don?t 
work good enough for you don?t hesitate to e-mail me back with any other 
questions I would be more than happy to help you or anyone else out 
there with they?re gauge pack problems.  I have been more than satisfied 
with my gauges and they are better than people say they are (besides I 
never see other cars with them except in the wrecking yard so they make 
your car look cooler)

My e-mail is slater442w30@hotmail.com for any other questions

Best of luck to you and anyone else trying to install gauges
Scott Slater
78 Cutlass Supreme
70 Cutlass Supreme


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 15:07:42 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: 215 Turbo Info

Wasn't only the jetfires, Also the F-85/cutlass body style had the turbo.
I just had a stock 215, but it sure was peppy!

Ben

Mike Sealey wrote:

> I'm surprised the first response to this is from me and not one of the
> A/G/X body guys...   ...anyway, the '62 and '63 Jetfire had the turbo
> 215.  They had the high compression of the stock 215, with a water
> injection system to prevent pinging.  Later owners failed to recognize
> the importance of keeping this filled, and a lot of Jetfires had big
> problems later in life because of this, hence low survival of turbo
> 215s.
>
> I believe the Jetfire used the same turbo as the turbo Corvair, but I
> could easily be mistaken (looong time ago).  I'm also pretty sure the
> turbo Jetfire used a 1-bbl. carb, for some presumably perfectly good
> reason that escapes me now.
>
> Mike Sealey
> '69 Ninety Eight Holiday Sedan
>
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 15:13:28 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: 215 Turbo Info

On the hand of the water injection systems... Who has a diagram, illustrated
parts breakdown or something with a listing of parts. For those with big
engines and anybody for that matter, a water injection system (as illustrated
by Mother Earth news back in the early 80s) is of large importance. I would
love to put one on my 400. You could use less gas and the water would also
steam clean all your valves and pistons. At the right mixture and usage it
could be great. More hp, more economy. Anybody got more info on the system from
the 215 or something that could be hand made. The one out of Mother Earth News
just didn't quite cut it, maybe I just missed some things when I built mine.

Ben

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 17:19:59 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 215 Turbo Info

Turbo was only available on the Jetfire, which is a Cutlass / F-85  .. I owned
a 63 (my first car) with the 4 barrel (non turbo Cutlass), 195 hp , 10.75:1
compression engine. Yes they were very peppy for such a small cubed motor, and
man were they loud when you put true dual exhaust on them...see mine at my 73s
webpage under Hot Rod Harrys Cars  
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">1973 Olds Cutlass 455
4speed</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 17:22:35 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 215 Turbo Info

There is some Tech info on the 442.COM site about the Jetfire motor, I thinks
its a 62. Under road test area I think.  Hot Rod Harry 
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">1973 Olds Cutlass 455
4speed</A>  Love those Oldsmobiles

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 17:32:06 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: 86 Cutlass Rallye gauges (LONG)

thanks.  I am going to the junkyard tomorrow to get all I need.  I will
let you know how things turn out.
Brian.

scott slater wrote:
> 
> Okay I have done an entire Rallye Pack in a car with stock idiot lights.
> The first thing you have to do after getting the new gauges you should
> check the tach for a little plug with the numbers 6 and 8 next to it.
> You will have to plug the plug into either the 6 or 8 depending on your
> engine.  The rest of the gauges are incredibly accurate if you clean the
> contacts and make sure all the nuts on the gauges are tight.  NEVER EVER
> wipe a rag across the gauge fronts.  The white paint will smear like
> nothing else.  Check all the bulbs and make sure they all work.  For the
> tach you need to find the middle hookup labeled for the distributer cap
> and remove the metal clip from the actual gauge package because if you
> don?t and hook up the gauges it can fry the ignition module (a 60 dollar
> mistake I won?t make again) You must instead run a wire from the post to
> the HEI cap.  It already has a port labeled tach on it  While in the
> wrecking yard you will need to get the different sending units for the
> oil pressure and the water temp.  If you can?t get to them you can buy
> them new but they?re spendy.  After replacing the sending units and
> hooking up the tach you can plug the gauges into the dash for the fun of
> it and see if they will work wired up that way.  The car I converted was
> a Diesel changeover and it took me about 2 days of free time to get the
> gauges wired in right.  On the car I worked on I had to remove all the
> wires from the gauge harness (little white clip full of wires behind the
> gauges) and track down every damn wire with test lights and swearing
> then I had to match those up to the gauges and put them back into the
> clip in order to make them work.  The tach is supposed to sit a little
> higher when the key is off.  I have added a tach into my Cutlass and
> added the whole cluster from one car to another so I have got a pretty
> good idea about what I?m talking about but if these directions don?t
> work good enough for you don?t hesitate to e-mail me back with any other
> questions I would be more than happy to help you or anyone else out
> there with they?re gauge pack problems.  I have been more than satisfied
> with my gauges and they are better than people say they are (besides I
> never see other cars with them except in the wrecking yard so they make
> your car look cooler)
> 
> My e-mail is slater442w30@hotmail.com for any other questions
> 
> Best of luck to you and anyone else trying to install gauges
> Scott Slater
> 78 Cutlass Supreme
> 70 Cutlass Supreme
> 
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 15:36:47 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: 215 Turbo Info

Ben wrote:
> 
> On the hand of the water injection systems... Who has a diagram, illustrated
> parts breakdown or something with a listing of parts. For those with big
> engines and anybody for that matter, a water injection system (as illustrated
> by Mother Earth news back in the early 80s) is of large importance. I would
> love to put one on my 400. You could use less gas and the water would also
> steam clean all your valves and pistons. At the right mixture and usage it
> could be great. More hp, more economy. Anybody got more info on the system 
from
> the 215 or something that could be hand made. The one out of Mother Earth 
News
> just didn't quite cut it, maybe I just missed some things when I built mine.

Holley made or makes a water injection kit.  I'm not sure I understand the ups
and downs of H2O injection but I know my brother-in-law had the Holley kit on
one of his vehicles and he doesn't use it anymore (sits in a box under the
bench).  Maybe you can find a Holley kit for your 400?  

I thought the Jetfire used water and alcohol (trivia question on the list a
while ago about bottles under the hood.)
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 16:27:30 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Olds History Center procedures

I called a 1-800 GM number years ago and gave them my VIN.  About a week later
I received the letter shown at
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/69_large/Options.jpg with the options that
they had recorded for my car and a letter saying "Sorry this is all we could
find."  The letter has the option list, paint, trim codes, and build date.

BTW: what colour is "Sable" anyway?  Is that gold or brown?

The good part is that this was free but I'm sure Lansing can give you more
info.

"Reed, Stephen" wrote:
>
>         Just curious what does the $15.00 get you?  What information do you
> receive?  Anyone done this yet?  If so how long does it take to receive the
> information.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 16:51:06 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: 215 Turbo Info

the alcohol was mainly to keep the water from freezing. On the hand of the 
holley
system. It only turned on when the engine was under load, and was VERY pricy 
for the
little it does. I've seen it at the local speed shop, wasn't happy with the 
way it
looked and just didn't feel like it was worth the money

Ben

> Holley made or makes a water injection kit.  I'm not sure I understand the 
ups
> and downs of H2O injection but I know my brother-in-law had the Holley kit on
> one of his vehicles and he doesn't use it anymore (sits in a box under the
> bench).  Maybe you can find a Holley kit for your 400?
>
> I thought the Jetfire used water and alcohol (trivia question on the list a
> while ago about bottles under the hood.)
> --
>
> Cliff Simpson
> csimpson@ucalgary.ca
> '69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
> http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 17:01:07 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: 215 Turbo Info

Ben wrote:
> 
> the alcohol was mainly to keep the water from freezing. <snip>
Doh!  I should have figured that out.  I guess you couldn't put glycol in it
so, yes, alcohol makes the most sense.  Thanks.

- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 19:35:35 -0500
From: "Gary Couse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: 215 Turbo Info

<Snip>
<I know my brother-in-law had the Holley kit on one of his vehicles and he
doesn't use it anymore (sits in a box under the bench).>

Maybe you should hook these two people up.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 20:11:32 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: HEI Question and comment (not trying to run this in the 
ground...but)

In a message dated 1/21/99 11:31:42 PM Central Standard Time,
nurelic@primenet.com writes:

<< If I miss understood you I'm sorry.   What does pocketing a part mean?
  >>


You did missunderstand me...and apology accepted. "Pocketing a part" means
putting parts in your pocket...simple. "Pocket parts" means very small,
insignifigant, usually next to worthless, and always usefull and left in a car
when it is crushed.

Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 20:17:56 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: stealing was hei

In a message dated 1/21/99 11:46:44 PM Central Standard Time,
DYeager535@aol.com writes:

<<       Man, some of you guys are lucky...some of the yards around here will
 charge you for those cheesy clips that hold door panels on..and a $5 minimum
 at that. Just thought I'd add that in..wish one of the yards around here was
 more reasonable..lots of cool stuff there cause he' so damn expensive! Dorian
>>


Speaking of "free" stuff from yards...I went to the same yard today and pulled
a VERY MINT vanity mirror for my 442 , and the same guy (the owner) said "no
charge". He showed me his computer system that tracks his inventory. He says
that the "value" of the cars is not in the little stuff, but in straight
fenders, doors, and engine cores. He doesn't even care about tracking these
little items. Just like the 442 side scoops that I bought for my 65
Cutlass...they were on a car that HAD BEEN CRUSHED! I bought them by bringing
the owner a hamburger and smoozing him into letting me climb the pile and pry
them of the car just days before they were going to haul the car off.

Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 18:10:29 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Speedo trans adapters

<jerdan@erols.com> wrote:
Does anyone know a source for speedometer transmission adapters.  I
recently changed out the 3.42 rear for a 3.91 (from a 68 W-30).  The
70 service manual calls for an adapter (.866).  Incedently, the 3.91s
really perked up my 1/4 mile performance.  
 
**********
Scott:

     What were your before and after 1/4 mile times/speeds?
'Enquiring' minds want to know :)
     Some Chevy pickups used the speedo adapters. I got some from a
junkyard a few years back. I remember I had to put 2 of them together
as well as fiddle with the plastic speedo gears the since the adapters
were not the exact ratio I needed. But I did get my 3.91 geared 69
Cutlass's speedometer to read correctly.
    I think somebody sells the adapters nowadays but I forget who!

==
"2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our cars, trucks and a whole lot more at
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 21:27:05 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Distributor Positioning

Well, I'm beginning to accumulate the parts for my HEI swap.  I have a
question regarding distributor positioning.  In the cars I've seen, the
#1 terminal on the points distributor is on the front, driver's side of
the cap.  On the HEI, the #1 terminal is at the rear, near the
firewall.  This makes sense to me because it allows for a routing of the
spark plug wires that is neater and less prone to crossfiring.  So,
let's say I take the cap off my old points distributor and the rotor is
facing the #1 terminal (conveniently, enough).   But let's say this
terminal is near the front but I'd prefer the #1 terminal be toward the
back.  My thinking is that if I pick a terminal on the rear of the new
distributor to be #1, the rotor must face THAT TERMINAL when I install
it, just like the rotor in the old one faced it's #1 terminal, even
though the position of the #1 terminal is different. The idea being the
relative starting point of the #1 terminal is irrelevant, but from this
starting point on, the firing order must be kept the same.  So, am I out
in left field?  This seems perfectly obvious to me, but, as I'm always
willing to be corrected, anyone care to confirm or deny my hypothesis?
- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 21:47:22 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Distributor Positioning

In a message dated 1/22/99 6:41:49 PM Pacific Standard Time,
smithtp@ix.netcom.com writes:

<< Well, I'm beginning to accumulate the parts for my HEI swap.  I have a
 question regarding distributor positioning.  In the cars I've seen, the
 #1 terminal on the points distributor is on the front, driver's side of
 the cap.  On the HEI, the #1 terminal is at the rear, near the
 firewall.  This makes sense to me because it allows for a routing of the
 spark plug wires that is neater and less prone to crossfiring.  So,
 let's say I take the cap off my old points distributor and the rotor is
 facing the #1 terminal (conveniently, enough).   But let's say this
 terminal is near the front but I'd prefer the #1 terminal be toward the
 back.  My thinking is that if I pick a terminal on the rear of the new
 distributor to be #1, the rotor must face THAT TERMINAL when I install
 it, just like the rotor in the old one faced it's #1 terminal, even
 though the position of the #1 terminal is different. The idea being the
 relative starting point of the #1 terminal is irrelevant, but from this
 starting point on, the firing order must be kept the same.  So, am I out
 in left field?  This seems perfectly obvious to me, but, as I'm always
 willing to be corrected, anyone care to confirm or deny my hypothesis?
 --
 Thomas P. Smith >>

      Thomas, if I understand you correctly....you can put the plug wires on
any terminal on the cap, as long as the firing order are teh same and the
rotor position are, I guess you would say, relative. Just makes it hard if it
isn't your car and someones done that...doesn't "seem" right : )  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: 22 Jan 99 18:49:22 PST
From: Jon Hart <hartjon@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: stealing was hei]

oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:
In a message dated 1/21/99 9:26:24 PM Pacific Standard Time,
nurelic@primenet.com writes:

<< I have never been charged for items like those listed below.  I always
offer
 the guy a buck or two for them and every yard I have ever been in tell me to
 forget it just come back and tell friends.
 
 Why steal something when they will gladly give them to you? >>

      Man, some of you guys are lucky...some of the yards around here will
charge you for those cheesy clips that hold door panels on..and a $5 minimum
at that. Just thought I'd add that in..wish one of the yards around here was
more reasonable..lots of cool stuff there cause he' so damn expensive! Dorian

I had the unfortunate experience when I was in my late teens being caught with
a dipstick I had lifted from the yard. Man was the owner hot! He chewed my
friend and I out. He told us never to come back to his yard and threatened
next time to call the police! 

I will never forget that. Nuts and bolts, ok if you are buying a part that
they attach to but relays etc. pay for them! Don't get chewed out! By the way
that was 15 years ago. I have not taken anything from a yard again!

Jon Hart
83 Ninety Eight
72 Chevelle
90 Mustang Conv (for sale)
98 Malibu

____________________________________________________________________
More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://home.netscape.com/netcenter/mail

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 22:18:45 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Sway bars again.

Silly junkyard folks.  They crushed the F41 car before I could get the
good stuff off it.  There are several Regals, GP's and Monte's out there
with the sway bars, and I don't mind using them but will they work? 
Also, any numbers I should be looking for in any of these cars to get
the high ratio steering box from one of these cars, or will it even
work?  Anyone got a Hollander's?
Thanks,
Brian.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 22:23:36 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: sensors and senders

I am going to get the Rallye gauges tomorrow for the 86 Brougham.  I
read the FAQ and see what I have to do.  Problem is, I don't know what I
am looking for when I look for the temp and oil pressure senders on the
engine.  Where are they and what do they look like?  Also, when I go to
hook up the new senders for these gauges will they just plug right in or
do I need to get the plugs for them and do some splicing?  HELP!
Thanks,
Brian.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 22:24:50 -0500
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Re: Carb Spacer, Status

George,
I mean no offense, but your motor story reminded me of an episode of the
Little Rascals where they build a fire truck for the gang to ride on and
have to cut through a wall to get it out. I don't know how much a 350
weighs, but my 455 wouldn't sit on an engine stand I had that was rated for
750 lbs. I had to go out and get one that was rated for 1000 lbs. Even that
one was groaning a bit.
As for the insulators you're looking for, Steele rubber products might have
what you're looking for. I can't find my catalog but the toll free number
is 1-800-544-8665.
					Good luck,
					R. Kevin Noon
					66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
					85 DRB (for sale, as soon as I receive 
a new title)

- ----------
> From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
> To: OldsML <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Carb Spacer, Status
> Date: Friday, January 22, 1999 11:08 AM
> 
> 
> *** Sorry if this appears twice. My email was down for days and I could
not 
> *** receive the list emails. If you replied to this already, please 
> *** repeat it!
> 
> 
> Hi Listers,
> 
> long time no mail... well yesterday I finally took the motor out the 
> living room! It had it fully assembled and there is only one thing I 
> learned from this: 
> Do not assemble the whole engine at a place where you can't get it with 
> the crane!!! Well, I ended up building a wooden ramp to the outside of 
> the house to grab it there with the crane... How much does a 350 weigh 
> with heads and everything on? 
> 
> I have two questions:
> 
> - Will a carb spacer help to get a little more response in the lower rpm 
>   range when used with a single plane intake (holley dominator) like
mine?
> 
> - Where can you get those radiator rubber spacers??? (two on top and two 
>   on the bottom of the radiaotor.)
> 
> So long, 
> George
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> '68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
> http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 22:36:49 -0500
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Wire hubcaps

Brian,
	Many years ago I got a set of wire hubcaps from a Ch*vy out of a junk
yard. They were in great shape but unbelievably dirty. I washed them as
well as possible outside with the hose and brush method and then, (against
my mothers wishes) I put them in the dishwasher. They came out looking LIKE
 NEW! I was amazed and my mom forgave me. (No damage to the dishwasher).
 Good luck.
 				R. Kevin Noon	
				66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
 				85 DRB (for sale, as soon as I receive a new 
title)

- ----------
 > From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
 > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca; olds_gbody@listbot.com
 > Subject: Wire Hubcaps
 > Date: Monday, January 18, 1999 5:52 PM
> 
 > This may apply more to the G Body folks than anyone else, but all
 > replies are welcomed, of course.
 > 
 > Has anyone had any luck cleaning their Cutlass wire wheel covers?  After
 > all the filthy horrible snow and road salt lately my hubcaps are looking
 > pretty horrid.  I can see that if I take them off I can clean the inside
 > ring somewhat, and the outside poses little problem, but there is that
 > piece in the middle between the two sets of spokes--and the inside
 > spokes themselves--that I just can't seem to get to.  I tried spraying
 > them with Castrol Super Clean, which took the oil off my motor but
 > couldn't take the dirt off my hubcaps.  I would shy away from
 > dismantling them because I got lucky and didn't get noisy ones, but if
 > that is what it takes and they are noisy afterwards, I can just turn up
 > the radio.  That's more fun anyway.
 > Brian.
 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 19:59:45 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Distributor Positioning

"Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
My thinking is that if I pick a terminal on the rear of the new
distributor to be #1, the rotor must face THAT TERMINAL when I install
it, just like the rotor in the old one faced it's #1 terminal, even
though the position of the #1 terminal is different. The idea being
the relative starting point of the #1 terminal is irrelevant, but from
this starting point on, the firing order must be kept the same.  So,
am I out in left field?  This seems perfectly obvious to me, but, as
I'm always willing to be corrected, anyone care to confirm or deny my
hypothesis?

**********
Tom,
     Your reasoning is correct and it will work out just fine! 'Been
there done that' :) Just don't forget that the Olds distributor turns
counterclockwise, unlike a Che%y that has the same 1-8-4-3-6-5-7-2
firing order but turns CLOCKWISE!


==
"2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our cars, trucks and a whole lot more at
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 22:36:59 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE:1979 W31 -R. Grant asked??

I don't know about the w31 but I havw a butternut cutlass Supreme with a 
black top and brown interior.   May not mean anything but I am drunk and 
it sounds good.

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 01:38:29 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1979 W31 -R. Grant asked??

LMAO

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 22 Jan 1999 22:47:40 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: HEI Question and comment (not trying to run this in the 
ground...but)

I am not trying to make anybody made but please give this subject a 
rest.  Everyone will follow there morals.  Some of us have more morals 
than others, but hey that is what makes the world go round.  No one will 
ever be 100% happy on this subject, but every one crying is not going to 
help it.  Bottom Line pay for what you take.  If it is junk still tell 
them, they own it not you,  Sorry if I made anyone made.  I am just 
tired of reading about how you go to a junk yard.  Thanks.

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 01:43:31 -0500
From: "Todd M.Williams" <todd@wvadventures.net>
Subject: need parts (74)

lookin for parts for a 74 442 if anyone has any info please let me know 
need:
drivers side fender 
headlight bezel drivers side
also the trim that goes around the headlight chrome maybe ?
drivers side 442 grill
need the piece thats on the front goes from side to side think its called a
stone guard for the 71 and 72`s not sure of the name for the 74`s but this
one is metal unlike the 71 and 72`s
the trim peices that goes around the back side windows 
want 1/4 pannels if not than maybe a patch pannel  

if anyone has any info let me know 

Todd

todd@wvadventures.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 00:56:06 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Carb Spacer, Status

>but my 455 wouldn't sit on an engine stand I had that was rated for
>750 lbs. I had to go out and get one that was rated for 1000 lbs. Even that
>one was groaning a bit.


I bought a 1250 LBS. stand for my 455 and it worked great.  It was evident,
though, that it may have been problematic on a smaller stand.  750 LBS.
stand is good maybe for a 1.6L Honda engine, in my opinion.  Some of the
companies say that it would hold a bigger motor, but that is a risk if you
ask me.  The 1000 LBS. stand was a great idea and cheap insurance from major
injury.

Anyway, depending on what accessories are on the motor, a 350 would be
approx.. under 600 LBS but no less then 500.  A 455 with water pump and
alternator is about 680 LBS.  After I put the 455 in the car and then placed
the 307 on the stand, I felt much safer working on the 307.  Somehow the
stand looked like it was under much less pressure.  Maybe it was only in my
mind.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 01:12:02 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Air Shocks

I am about to purchase a new set of wheels for my '81 Delta.  I really want
to run 15" x 10"s on the back of the car so due to the suggestions by many
people, I decided to get air-shocks in order to be able to insure fender
clearance.  My question is to the people that owned air-shock before.  ( I
would like to know before I install them ).  Fist, how is the ride?  I would
like it to be firm for handling yet still livable.  Second, are they a big
pain in the but to operate?  How do they react to temp. change?  Are they
easy to install?  And finally (for now), how durable are they?  The ones I
bought are MONROE Max-Air.  I really would like 15x10s so that I can run
295/50/15s or maybe even slicks later on.  And one more, how high can the
shocks raise the car.  I don't want it to be stupid if it sits up too high.
Thanks a lot.  Igor.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 01:46:04 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: stealing was hei

> I will never forget that. Nuts and bolts, ok if you are buying a part that
> they attach to but relays etc. pay for them! Don't get chewed out! By the way
> that was 15 years ago. I have not taken anything from a yard again!

The yard owner in Havre used to teach automotive classes in college (retired a
few years back)  He'd often tell us the story of some kid that came in one day,
and "couldn't find anything he needed" while sheepishly keeping his back away
from the owner.   When asked to turn around, they found like an ashtray or
something stupid like that sticking out of the back of his pants.  Something
Mike admitted he'd normally get a token dollar ~tops~ for.  Well, he made the
kid an offer "$25, or I can call the cops.  Your choice."  He paid it...  No, 
it
wasn't me!  :)  They've usually treated me well, since I gave 'em so much 
repeat
business.  I'd often come to the counter with a "This" and a "That" and a "tool
box full of nuts and bolts"  They'd usually just chuckle and give me some
outrageous offer, and I'd give 'em some outrageous counter-offer, and we'd
usually settle up right around the middle, usually exactly what the stuff was
actually worth to me :)  ...Although there ~was~ this time, I'd been eyeing out
this 66 Toro they had there...  Which happened to have a few 84 Cutlass parts 
in
the back seat.  Made 'em an offer for the whole car, (plus and minus regular
dickerring) and made arrangements to pick the car up at a later date (our 
mutual
nearest convenience, which ended up being like five months!)  Well, all the
Cutlass parts were still there when I picked it up, so I ~guess~ it wasn't a
problem for them :)  Also a few engine parts in the trunk, when I finally got
~that~ open...  Nothing cool there, though.  (bummer...  Always nice to find
little bonusses back there, like that '66 Tri-Power intake Chris Witt always
finds in a parts car trunk on 4/1!!! :)


Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 01:53:09 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Congrats to the G-body list

Today marked a new landmark for us!  We signed on member # 150 today, I think
that's really cool!  At this time I can't see ~who~ our lucky subscriber is, 
but
we're at 150 and counting!!!  :)
- -- 

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 08:31:49 -0500
From: "Michael Davis" <mdavis@metrobankandtrust.com>
Subject: Johnny Lighting Cars

Couple weeks ago someone mentioned the Johnny Lighting series with the
Hairy Olds as one of the cars.  I have been looking for that car since. 
SuperK and ToyRUs are out of them.  I did find a nice 70' 442.  On the
package it also had a web site that you can check out the Hairy Olds even
if you can't actually find it at the stores.  The web site is
www.playingmantis.com.  I'll keep the search up for the Hairy Olds but
there are other Oldsmobiles in the series.  I think there was a 73' or 74'
Cutlass.

						Mike Davis
						68' 442

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 08:39:41 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: need parts (74)

Go to this web site <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/CUTLASCOUP/index.html">
CUTLASCOUP's Home Page</A> and then go to "view my guestbook" . There is a guy
in there that has parts for those years. I will check around with some of my
friends this weekend for those parts you have requested . Hot Rod Harry from
NJ <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">1973 Olds Cutlass 455
4speed</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2099 08:58:12 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Speedo Trans Adapter

>Does anyone know a source for speedometer transmission adapters.  I
>recently changed out the 3.42 rear for a 3.91 (from a 68 W-30).  The 70
>service manual calls for an adapter (.866).

You might try your Olds dealer....they were still using adapters in 85
(according to the factory manual), although that year there are none listed
with ratios under 1.0.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2099 09:42:12 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Air Shocks

- -----Original Message-----
From: Igor T. '81 DRB 455 <igor455@home.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, January 23, 1999 3:34 AM
Subject: Air Shocks


> I decided to get air-shocks in order to be able to insure fender
>clearance.  My question is to the people that owned air-shock before.  ( I
>would like to know before I install them ).  First, how is the ride? I
would
>like it to be firm for handling yet still livable.

I have Monroe air adjustable shocks on the back of my 85 Delta. They're used
in conjunction with the automatic leveling system. A compressor under the
hood activates by a position sensor in the rear suspension. It is sooo
cool...

With a car full of fat guys (including driver) the rear end comes up
perfectly level. The ride is noticeably stiffer than without the air, but
overall handling is better than with the same payload without air.
- -----------------------
>Second, are they a big
>pain in the but to operate? How do they react to temp. change?

They definitely change with temperature. Lower pressure when cold (my
compressor comes on). You'll have to play with them for a while 'til you
find a pressure that works for you.
- -------------------------
> Are they
>easy to install?

Piece o' cake. You're just gonna hafta find a place to drill a hole to mount
the air fitting. And get some big tie wraps for holding the air lines to the
axle and such. Keep the air lines away from the exhaust pipes. Don't make
sharp bends, and allow enough slack so the suspension can move without
yanking on them.
- -------------------------
> And finally (for now), how durable are they?

Dunno yet - only have 3000 miles on 'em.
- --------------------------
>And one more, how high can the
>shocks raise the car.  I don't want it to be stupid if it sits up too high.


In an empty car, a couple inches easy (measured from the ground to rear
bumper). Can't say exactly 'cuz the leveling sensor won't let mine get more
than 3/4 inch past level.

drc

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1729
*********************************

