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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1704


oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, January 6 1999     Volume 01 : Number 1704



exploding batteries
Re: exploding batteries
ignore test from Home
Re: Bad Wiper Switch?
subscribe oldsmobile
Re: 69 parts for sale
Re: Funny noises (was Re: Comp Cams - Olds Muscle 
Mutant Machines that HAUL!
Tachs and MSD
Re: exploding batteries
Interesting item on eBay web site item#54042214: 1962 Oldsmobile Dealer Color 
Fabric Selector
Re: Bad Wiper Switch?
Got MY car back
Motor Break In
Re: Water in Gas?
Re: Olds events
15x10s on a Delta
Mondello flexplate and stock rod recommendations
Re: 15x10s on a Delta
Re: Donor bodies - long
Re: Funny noises (was Re: Comp Cams - Olds Muscle
Re: Dual Exhaust(pre-cat)
get a @Beer.com e-mail adress! (non-olds)
RE: exploding batteries
Re: Exploding Battery
Windshield and Backglass leaking
Re: Olds events
Re: Windshield and Backglass leaking
Re: Mondello flexplate and stock rod recommendations
Re: Re. DONOR (save the rocket muscle)
Re: Windshield and Backglass leaking
ADMIN: Re: get a @Beer.com e-mail adress!
Re: Dual Exhaust
Re: Windshield and Backglass leaking
Re: Dual Exhaust
Re: RE weather
Chassis, body, owner's manuals for sale
Miscelaneous (+ dual exhaust )
Re: Olds Mailing List Archive 1600 now available
Re: Olds Mailing List Archive 1600 now available
Swap meet-MI State Fair
73-77 Posi rear FS
Re: Windshield and Backglass leaking
Re: Olds events
Cryogenics
Re: olds events
425/455 block id help needed
bellhousing F# confusion
front end geometry and spindle extenders..
Rear Vacuum Brake

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Jan 1999 23:29:35 -0500
From: dgerow@student.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: exploding batteries

hello all,

well, seems the Cutlass will be denting my wallet once again.  Can
anyone riddle this one to me.  I've been having some electrical
trouble.  New voltage reg (external), and alternator didn't solve it.
So my mechanic friend takes the cover off the voltage reg and pushes the
bottom flex plate in...no more electrical problems.  I wasn't charging.
He said the bottom plate was too far out and wan't making contact.  This
was last week.  So, I am now back at school, 120 miles from home.  A
friend and I went to go out to dinner this evening.  Got in the car and
started her up.  About 50 seconds into the warm-up process, a very large
noise and rattle startled us.  Sounded like someone broke something up
against the fender.  Got out of the still running car to find "water"
running out from under the hood.  Opened it up, and there it wasn't!
Large pieces of battery everywhere!  My damn battery exploded.  I
couldn't believe it.  So, is this caused from overcharging or what?  I'm
really at a loss here.  Thanks for the help all.

Daniel R. Gerow

'69 4-4-2
'71 Cutlass Supreme

PS - battery acid hurts alot.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 00:00:12 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: exploding batteries

Daniel

        YES! It sounds like now your over charging due to the tweaking the
voltage regulator got. I had a similar problem with one and I went through 3
before I got a good one. And these were new. You should also make sure you have
one you can properly adjust the voltage output. Some of the new ones are sealed
and can't be adjusted.

My .02 cents

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts

At 11:29 PM 1/5/99 , you wrote:
>hello all,
>
>well, seems the Cutlass will be denting my wallet once again.  Can
>anyone riddle this one to me.  I've been having some electrical
>trouble.  New voltage reg (external), and alternator didn't solve it.
>So my mechanic friend takes the cover off the voltage reg and pushes the
>bottom flex plate in...no more electrical problems.  I wasn't charging.
>He said the bottom plate was too far out and wan't making contact.  This
>was last week.  So, I am now back at school, 120 miles from home.  A
>friend and I went to go out to dinner this evening.  Got in the car and
>started her up.  About 50 seconds into the warm-up process, a very large
>noise and rattle startled us.  Sounded like someone broke something up
>against the fender.  Got out of the still running car to find "water"
>running out from under the hood.  Opened it up, and there it wasn't!
>Large pieces of battery everywhere!  My damn battery exploded.  I
>couldn't believe it.  So, is this caused from overcharging or what?  I'm
>really at a loss here.  Thanks for the help all.
>
>Daniel R. Gerow
>
>'69 4-4-2
>'71 Cutlass Supreme
>
>PS - battery acid hurts alot.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Jan 1999 23:12:21 -0600
From: steven@purplemonkey.com (Steven Saraceno)
Subject: ignore test from Home

Sorry folks, but I just installed NC 4.5.  I also check mail on a
variety of machines so occasionally I send a response that is garbled. 
This is from home - should work fine

Steven

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 00:13:44 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: Bad Wiper Switch?

BradRoss79@aol.com wrote:
> 
>  The windshield wipers on my 79 98 are going crazy.  Sometimes the wipers 
work
> perfectly, sometimes when I put the switch on "delay" they operate at "LO"
> speed.
> Sometimes the wipers only work if I put the switch on "HI", then they operate
> at "LO" speed.

I had a similar problem in my `72 Vista Cruiser.  Sometimes I had high
and low, sometimes just low, sometimes just low but I had to switch it
to "hi" to get it to work.  The washer worked sometimes, mostly it
didn't.  And a couple of times they even shut down and parked back under
the hood....Both times at 65mph in a driving rainstorm.  The damn thing
would even shock me when I turned it on if I was holding a metal part of
the car like the gearshift!  Sometimes wiggling the switch side to side
would solve the problem(s) for a moment, sometimes it'd just shock me
again. :)  (BTW it was a lot like a static zap, nothing strong enough to
cause dain bramage or make me black out, drool,  etc. :)  Also I
remember the switch would get very hot to touch when the wipers were in
operation.  

...And no, I am making none of this up.  It's all true.

Anywayz, I eventually figured out that a mounting screw had come loose,
fallen out, and the switch wasn't making a proper ground connection. I
replaced it and all that spooky wierd stuff went away.  The wipers have
worked flawlessly ever since.  I'd suggest checking all the grounds that
have anything to do with the wipers. I'd especially give the switch
connections and mounting a good going over since it sees a lot of
pushing/pulling etc as you adjust the speeds and use the washer.  Maybe
cleaning up the spades on the switch will help since they can corrode. 
It's worth a try since it's a free fix if it workes.  

Hope I was of some help.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 00:33:59 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: subscribe oldsmobile

subscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 01:05:15 EST
From: Sprotten25@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69 parts for sale

 <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/sprotten25/page/OLDS.htm">Sprotten25's Page
</A> i might sell the whole car   the bumper is ok not perfect the core
support is rusted through under the battery i have all the front peices at the
moment

Thanks
Dino

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 00:52:21 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Funny noises (was Re: Comp Cams - Olds Muscle 

I've never heard of that...What other brand to go with that is high
volume/high pressure, without going to electrical?
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Edward Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Funny noises (was Re: Comp Cams - Olds Muscle 
> Date: Tuesday, January 05, 1999 4:20 PM
> 
> I've heard that. When my new motor is finished, it will be fed by an
> electric pump.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> >Watch out for that holley mechanicl fuel pump !!!  They are known to
self
> >destruct on big block Olds'. One on my 69 I had and my dads 67 and my
> brothers
> >65 and my friend Kevins 70 all developed a crack and Oil went all over
the
> >detailed engine of my dads 67 W30. Harry from NJ
> ><A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">1973 Olds Cutlass
455
> >4speed</A>
> >
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 05 Jan 1999 22:41:40 PST
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Mutant Machines that HAUL!

Hi all,

I was in the store today checking out the Hot Rod Mags.  Most were 
filled with the typical Chevys, Fords, and Mopar.

In the last few pages, I found a Black '67 Ford with a 455 Olds, TH400; 
in the Readers Rides section.  They can't be all bad.  Guess they 
decided to build it RIGHT!


Just my $.02,

Chris Rivier
Austin, Texas
'66 Delta 88...The BEAST is BACK!
'88 Festiva...ZIPPY 166K LAWN ORNAMENT.

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 13:12:02 -0600
From: "Joe Centanni" <jacentan@crown.icongrp.com>
Subject: Tachs and MSD

I have an  87 442 w/ the rally pack(duh) and the tach refuses to cooperate
w/ the MSD reads high and flutters anyone w/ an 80's OLds w/ the factory
tach and MSD ?  Hows it work on yours?...Checked the 6/8 switch on back of
cluster?.....possible short that acts up w/ the MSD cause its more
sensitive?
		Thanks
		Jeremy 87 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 00:59:29 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: exploding batteries

What type of battery was this? A name brand (AC Delco) or an old battery
from K Mart? Not trying to be funny, but just wondering if the battery
could be a cheap battery causing it to explode. My guess if it is a good
battery overcharging could do it, but I never heard of this before. 
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Daniel R. Gerow <dgerow@coal.stonehill.edu>
> To: Oldsmobile List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: exploding batteries
> Date: Tuesday, January 05, 1999 10:29 PM
> 
> hello all,
> 
> well, seems the Cutlass will be denting my wallet once again.  Can
> anyone riddle this one to me.  I've been having some electrical
> trouble.  New voltage reg (external), and alternator didn't solve it.
> So my mechanic friend takes the cover off the voltage reg and pushes the
> bottom flex plate in...no more electrical problems.  I wasn't charging.
> He said the bottom plate was too far out and wan't making contact.  This
> was last week.  So, I am now back at school, 120 miles from home.  A
> friend and I went to go out to dinner this evening.  Got in the car and
> started her up.  About 50 seconds into the warm-up process, a very large
> noise and rattle startled us.  Sounded like someone broke something up
> against the fender.  Got out of the still running car to find "water"
> running out from under the hood.  Opened it up, and there it wasn't!
> Large pieces of battery everywhere!  My damn battery exploded.  I
> couldn't believe it.  So, is this caused from overcharging or what?  I'm
> really at a loss here.  Thanks for the help all.
> 
> Daniel R. Gerow
> 
> '69 4-4-2
> '71 Cutlass Supreme
> 
> PS - battery acid hurts alot.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 02:57:21 -0400
From: ainode@frontiernet.net
Subject: Interesting item on eBay web site item#54042214: 1962 Oldsmobile 
Dealer Color Fabric Selector

Hey all guys, check this out. fabric and color option book for 1962 
oldsmobiles. sounds good to me........ check it out at the url.

Title of item:	1962 Oldsmobile Dealer Color Fabric Selector
Seller:	gperogie@aol.com
Starts:	01/04/99 18:00:00 PST 
Ends:	01/11/99 18:00:00 PST 
Price:	Currently $3.25
To bid the item, go to:	
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=54042214


Item Description:		
	This is one of the rarest pieces you could get to add to your 
collection for literature on your car.  This is the Original Dealership COLOR 
AND FABRIC SELECTOR Album.  These were sent out to the dealerships (1 each 
only!), and were used and most thrown out afterwards.  This one reads 1962 
Oldsmobile on the Cober and shows a Front end, and interior of a '62 olds on 
it.  The binding is a little worn, and the cover has some dirt, but most comes 
off with a little cleaning.  Inside are specifications, color and fabric 
samples and more. Covers F-85, Dynamic 88, Super 88, and Ninety-Eight, and 
Star-Fire.  Also has information on the Jet-Fire! Has sections on each model, 
and those pages are great!.  The back has the exterior color choices in a book 
with little see-through model cards you hold up to the colors to decide which 
one you like best.  This all is a little dirty, but with some time, this could 
be very good.  The car model selectors you hold up to the color choices are 
each!
  model in each choice (Conv. Coupe
On 01/05/99 at 15:37:40 PDT, seller added the following information:
The car model selectors you hold up to the color choices are each model in 
each choice (Conv. Coupe Etc...) VERY RARE, Get one while you can.  Any bid 
over $125 takes this away!!!! E-MAIL ME WITH ANY QUESTIONS!

	Visit eBay, the world's largest Personal Trading Community at 
http://www.ebay.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 00:45:54 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Bad Wiper Switch?

> The windshield wipers on my 79 98 are going crazy.  Sometimes the wipers
work
>perfectly, sometimes when I put the switch on "delay" they operate at "LO"
>speed.
>Sometimes the wipers only work if I put the switch on "HI", then they
operate
>at "LO" speed. Sometimes when I push the Washer button, the washer
sprays,and
>sprays for  a super long time, or until the washer bottle is empty.  From
the
>looks of things and my service manuals, I think the switch in the dash may
be
>bad.  I hope that some of you have had this problem and can help me out.
>Thanks in advance for all and any of your help.
>Brad Ross                          1979 98 Regency Coupe  -- Duals, no cat

Had this problem on both my Oldses, '81 98 and '81 88.  On the Regency it
was just lousy connections to the wiper motor and pump.  I just pulled it
off, cleaned and sanded them and put them back on.  They work great (until
they rust).  On the Delta though, it was the dash switch.  In any case, not
a big deal as you can get a switch of your 98 on any junk yard.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 01:00:49 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Got MY car back

Ohh, I finally got my Delta back from the body shop tonight.  It made for a
interesting ride home over approx.. 50 miles.  It got cold and snowy this
evening with serious slippery conditions.  I never drove the Delta in the
snow with the 455, 3.23s and BFGoodrich Radials (255/60/15s).  I could get
going okay on minimal throttle but when the trans shifted (TH400 with Hurst
Shift Kit), the tires would slip.  Hmm, not a good winter ride.  Sure missed
the 455.  I only got one chance to step on it (doing 70 MPH on highway) and
it still runs okay.  Now that I have hood induction, my TEMP on the highway
never exceeded 195.  It is also well below zero (-20 C, I think) outside and
the open air-cleaner and hood induction seemed to get by well.  No
hesitation or anything.  Now the interior has to be done (by me as I am
seriously BROKE).  I will post some pics of the car within a few days.
Igor.

1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23 posi)
1981 98 Regency (307/2004R/propane)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 01:05:47 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Motor Break In

By now I have about 800 miles on my 455 and quite a few hours or run time.
I have change the oil and filter three times by now.  I have never noticed
any "break in" symptoms with the motor.  I never noticed the difference in
ring seal (I don't even know how to).  The motor ran good from minute one,
no oil burn or nothing at first.  What am I looking for to indicated that
the motor is breaking in.  Igor.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 03:06:25 EST
From: CCRR12@aol.com
Subject: Re: Water in Gas?

In a message dated 1/5/99 7:43:18 PM Central Standard Time,
smithtp@ix.netcom.com writes:

<< I've got a nagging problem with my car all of a sudden.  The car
 misfires intermittently.  It does it whether warm or cold (read: choke
 on or off), during acceleration, cruising, or idling.  The carb is a
 recent rebuild.  I installed a brand new fuel filter when I put the carb
 on.  It was running okay.  Points, cap, rotor, plugs and coil are all
 less than 6 months old.  The wires are spiral wounds and are okay.
 
 The way this goes is kinda strange.  The car will be running fine, then
 I'll get this hesitation and misfiring.  After a few minutes it will be
 normal again for some time.  It may happen the next time I use the car,
 or it may not.  Like I say, it's intermittent.  >>
TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT
Thomas,

I have to go with the fuel pump as your problem. When the car starts to fail,
does it buck and act like it is running out of gas? 
One way to check would be with an inline clear filter, so that you could
observe the gas flow on the carb side of the fuel pump. 
Good luck,
Randy in Oklahoma
57 88 J2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 03:33:48 EST
From: GraphixRUs@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds events

  Southeast  Regional Smoky Mountain Fun Run
                         July   15 - 17 
                Pigeon  Forge , Tn
  more on this in a couple of days
Roger

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 01:43:01 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: 15x10s on a Delta

Now that my car is back, I am about to attempt to mount my Cragar SS 15x10
rims on it.  The rims are obviously wider then the fenders so what can I do
to insure that the tire will not rub and damage the new painted car.  The
tires are not that tall and the back sits up higher.  How do some of those
guys with wider rims keep tires from hitting the metal.  I was thinking of
installing coil-over-shocks (already have them) and airbags before I drive
it.  Will this help?  Do I have to put some kind of stop to make the
suspension stop traveling just before it hits the metal.  I have these
wheels and would really like to use them if possible.  This way I could
afford a mail-order of a set of two Cragars for the front.  But if I have to
buy 4 new wheels, then I am screwed.  The car is a '81 Delta 88. Igor.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 01:48:12 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Mondello flexplate and stock rod recommendations

Well, the porting process is well underway, at last, and it looks like this 455
is actually gonna happen! (Yippeeee!!!)  Within the next couple weeks
(hopefully) I'll be pulling the crank and rods out of the 73 Toro's 455, and
scraping the crank and rods out of the 69 455, and swapping parts to my heart's
content ;)  Of course, they'll all get balanced, too.  Which brings me to this
dilemma.  I have, in my stash of odds and ends, a Mondello flexplate, it's like
3/8" thick or so, and solid.  What is the advantage of this?  Does this
flexplate offer only additional strength, or will the added rotating weight
alter the performance characteristics?  

This engine is expected to peak low, according to Desktop Dyno, it'll have
525@3500Tq, 431@4500Hp max, and 495 Ft Lbs at 2000, with small headers, and
mufflers.  Open exhaust and "optomistic" porting results, I'm looking at
560@3500/476@5000.  (that's all with a .030 overbore, Toro "C" heads, and 11:1
compression, which I'm not fully decided on yet, although I like the results
better there ;)

It's my thoughts that this heavier flexplate will slow down the rev-speed, but
allow an easier sustained high-rpm run.  Does this theory sound logical?  Would
I be better off ~not~ running it?  I like the idea of a stronger piece, but I
have no technical information about it.  I'll need to decide what to do before 
I
get the balancing done, which (optimistically) will be within a month.  

Also, with rod prepping, I'd figured on polishing 'em a bit, as suggested in 
the
FAQ.  The machine-shop guy recommends shotpeening for strength.  Now I'm stuck
wonderring who to trust...  The electronic bible we've all grown to know and
trust as gospel (cuz it ~is~ :) or the guy who's actually gonna be doing the
work.  Would there be any forseeable problem rough-sanding 'em first, then
having 'em peened, and then final polishing?  I'm sure I'm talking about
redundant overkill, but hey, if I'm gonna do part of it, and got the stuff to 
do
it all, why not?  Right?  

Any thoughts, suggestions, otherwise???  

Thanks, in advance,
- -- 

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 03:59:10 EST
From: CCRR12@aol.com
Subject: Re: 15x10s on a Delta

In a message dated 1/6/99 2:46:13 AM Central Standard Time, igor455@home.com
writes:

<< Now that my car is back, I am about to attempt to mount my Cragar SS 15x10
 rims on it.  The rims are obviously wider then the fenders so what can I do
 to insure that the tire will not rub and damage the new painted car.  The
 tires are not that tall and the back sits up higher.  How do some of those
 guys with wider rims keep tires from hitting the metal.  >>


Igor,
AIR SHOCKS! That was the answer we had in the seventies. Actually still use
them, just not with 120 lbs. anymore.
Personally, I would sell or trade those rims for some 15x8 non-reversed rims,
or at least close to standard back spacing. That way you can put some serious
meats on the back and not worry about clearance.
Twenty years ago it was common place for a guy to blow his air shocks and be
stranded because the tires rubbed too much to drive the car. Quick fix if
possible, was to swap with the front tires. Does look kind of funny though,
driving a car with L60-15's on the front, and G70's on the back!
Good luck,

Randy in Oklahoma
57 88 J2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 05:19:28 EST
From: OLDS44272@aol.com
Subject: Re: Donor bodies - long

In a message dated 1/5/99 10:54:56 AM Eastern Standard Time,
SemantanaC@tce.com writes:

<<  got to thinking the other day how one would go about the process of
 swapping bodies onto their muscle cars since several people on the list had
 mentioned potentially doing such a thing and a few people have asked me if
 I'm planning on the same thing. >>
                  

               I could justify using a shell of a car that is more solid than
the one that you would currently own. I could see how it would be like
replacing the floors and quaters. But there are 2 problems with this. First
you would know that what your left with is not the same car you started out
with. Second, the title to the donor car is worthless, unless you put the vin
from your donor car back into your rusty shell. This leads to the a good
question. At what point is a car still considered a car? You can buy a car
minus the front clip and get replacement parts. Or you can buy just a rolling
shell with a title. So is the title good for only the body?...... (
roof,floor,frame, quaters??)..........This thread might last
awhile..............SCOTT

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 07:28:56 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Funny noises (was Re: Comp Cams - Olds Muscle

I think Carter makes a high volume fuel mechanical fuel pump to use instead of
the Holley

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 04:54:11 -0800 (PST)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Exhaust(pre-cat)

  Ok, quick question.  Since my car is a 1970 Cutlass 'S' with single
exhaust (no cats) I can modify the exhaust system any way that I want,
in other words I can add duals with headers, correct?  Since my car
has no emission controls, there are, to my knowledge, no laws
preventing me from doing this, correct?  I just want to make sure, as
I'm planning on eventually getting duals with headers and dyno-max
super turbos, and I don't want to have to get cats.

On an unrelated note: It's currently 0 degrees outside and I had to
drive to work in a car with no heat! (not my Olds, just a '80 Ch*vy
Imp*la w/ a 267 ci 8 cylinder)

Have a Happy Day,
             Stefan
             1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
             sgadecki@yahoo.com

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 05:16:39 -0800 (PST)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: get a @Beer.com e-mail adress! (non-olds)

   Hey all, I just got a new e-mail adress at www.beer.com   It just
forwards the e-mail from there to your existing account, so there is
no need to change anything.  Also, it makes it convenient for people
who want to get ahold of you, because if you ever change your existing
e-mail acount, you can just go to www.beer.com and change where it
forwards to and whoever has your beer.com e-mail adress can continue
to send messages to the same adress without having to figure out where
you went.

Have a Happy Day,
             Stefan
             1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
             70Cutlass@beer.com 



_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 08:14:34 -0500
From: "G.J.C cc-iroc-ss" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: exploding batteries

Daniel R. Gerow Wrote:

<Snip>
Got in the car and
> started her up.  About 50 seconds into the warm-up process, a very large
> noise and rattle startled us.  Sounded like someone broke something up
> against the fender.  Got out of the still running car to find "water"
> running out from under the hood.  Opened it up, and there it wasn't!
> Large pieces of battery everywhere!  My damn battery exploded.

<GJC>

Man I hope you were able to find a car wash or flowing hose to flush that
engine compartment. I certainly would be worried about the rad support,
fender & body seams etc where the acid would start doing your rides inner
nose a nasty.

Oh, the pain!

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs

ICQ# 5209322
mailto:gjcouse@CC-IROC-SS.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Peter Landowski
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 1999 1:59 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: exploding batteries


What type of battery was this? A name brand (AC Delco) or an old battery
from K Mart? Not trying to be funny, but just wondering if the battery
could be a cheap battery causing it to explode. My guess if it is a good
battery overcharging could do it, but I never heard of this before.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Daniel R. Gerow <dgerow@coal.stonehill.edu>
> To: Oldsmobile List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: exploding batteries
> Date: Tuesday, January 05, 1999 10:29 PM
>
> hello all,
>
> well, seems the Cutlass will be denting my wallet once again.  Can
> anyone riddle this one to me.  I've been having some electrical
> trouble.  New voltage reg (external), and alternator didn't solve it.
> So my mechanic friend takes the cover off the voltage reg and pushes the
> bottom flex plate in...no more electrical problems.  I wasn't charging.
> He said the bottom plate was too far out and wan't making contact.  This
> was last week.  So, I am now back at school, 120 miles from home.  A
> friend and I went to go out to dinner this evening.  Got in the car and
> started her up.  About 50 seconds into the warm-up process, a very large
> noise and rattle startled us.  Sounded like someone broke something up
> against the fender.  Got out of the still running car to find "water"
> running out from under the hood.  Opened it up, and there it wasn't!
> Large pieces of battery everywhere!  My damn battery exploded.  I
> couldn't believe it.  So, is this caused from overcharging or what?  I'm
> really at a loss here.  Thanks for the help all.
>
> Daniel R. Gerow
>
> '69 4-4-2
> '71 Cutlass Supreme
>
> PS - battery acid hurts alot.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 05:27:35 -0800 (PST)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Exploding Battery

  I'm not really sure why your battery exploded, but I know that a
buddy of mine was putting a new battery in his girlfriends car and he
put the cables backwards, and the battery ended up melting into itself
(it didn't happen instantly, took a few minutes).  He said it looked
pretty cool.  This same guy, on the same day I think, didn't shut the
hood right, and the next morning when his ggirlfriend was driving to
work, it opened on the highway and wrapped over the windshield and the
roof (she didn't get hurt, but boy was she P*SSED!).  It was a F*rd
Esc*rt.  I laughed at him for weeks for that one.   


==

     Stefan
     1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
     70Cutlass@Beer.com

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 08:40:03 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: Windshield and Backglass leaking

My windshield is leaking on the driver's side of the car. The water comes in
from the top and drips on my steering wheel. I know this sounds like either
a seal has 'let go' or rust(bad 4 letter word). The back glass is leaking
over the entire length of the top. 

Once I get the chrome off of my 72 442, I'll be able to determine the extent
of the problem. Then, I figure out if it's needs fixing now or if it can
wait till warm weather or even next year. 

My Q is can I use some clear silicone for the long term(provided there's no
rust)around the edge of the windshield?  I don't *want* to take the glass
out but, if there's no other option, I will.

What I had in mind is: pull the molding, check for visible signs, clean
trough between glass and body, seal the top trough with clear silicone, and
reinstall molding.

I KNOW the right way is to take it out and put in a new roll of goop (seal)
and reinstall the glass. AND when I have time I WILL. I just need something
that will buy me some time here.

Anybody had experience with this? 

I will only drive it occasionally in the next few months and hope to take it
to the dragstrip a time or two. After this June, it'll be parked
indefinitely while I'm enjoying the arrival of my 3rd kid in 3
years.(Sheesh... tell me about it !! I have *finally* figured what caused
that...)
 
Donny Arnold
w.d.arnold@lmco.com

72  Olds 442  
41 Chevy 
63 Chevy Truck


 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 09:22:31 EST
From: Lou0118@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds events

Anybody know if there is an Olds event on Long Island, NY.  I saw something
about it on someone's web site but can't remember where.  I live in New Jersey
but may go out to Long Island since I grew up there and want to show my car
off to some old friends.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 09:26:19 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Windshield and Backglass leaking

In a message dated 1/6/99 7:43:24 AM Central Standard Time,
w.d.arnold@lmco.com writes:

<< Anybody had experience with this? 
  >>
   Yes...I have
I KNOW the right way is to take it out and put in a new roll of goop (seal)
and reinstall the glass. AND when I have time I WILL. I just need something
that will buy me some time here.

   You are deffinately correct


My Q is can I use some clear silicone for the long term(provided there's no
rust)around the edge of the windshield?  I don't *want* to take the glass
out but, if there's no other option, I will.

What I had in mind is: pull the molding, check for visible signs, clean
trough between glass and body, seal the top trough with clear silicone, and
reinstall molding.


   If you use silicone...you will have a REAL problem getting it out when the
time for correct repairs comes. I would suggest getting "bedding compound" in
a tube and using it as a temporary fix. It cleans up with gasoline. 

   I would suggest getting the new "roll" of window gasket "snot" and also
filling in the seams with bedding compound before installing window moldings

Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 Cutlass
.....tadaaaa ....and soon to be 65 442 Vistacruiser.(fake...of course...but
toooooooo cool!)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 09:26:21 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Mondello flexplate and stock rod recommendations

I had a set prepped by polishing and heat treating. There's a place in
Orlando, FL that is doing cryogenic treatments on rods for only $7.50 per
rod! Cryogenics, according to the experts including Mondello, is far
superior to heat treating. It actually changed the whole molecular structure
of the metal. At least that is what I've been told. As a skeptic of all
things new and miraculous, I can't help but wonder. I chose heat treating,
I'll wait for the jury on cryogenics. But I must say, I have never heard a
negative on cryogenics, and I put some stock in Mondello's endorsement,
although I'm sure he'd say that HIS cryogenic process is the only CORRECT
one. :-) Cryogenics is somewhat cheaper than heat treating (at least from
the Orlando people it is). One major expense in heat treating is that it
changes the size of the small end and it needs to be bushed. I will end up
paying about $320 for the whole process by the time it's all said and done.
They are at the machine shop now. A new set of Eagle rods will set you back
about $680, so heat treating and/or cryogenics are still a bargain. I'd
wager that the strength comparison would not give that much of an advantage,
if any, to the Eagle rods. (strictly my opinion folks)
Also, you only need to polish the sides of the rods and get them notched.
For heaven's sake, use ARP rod bolts. They are CHEAP INSURANCE.

- -----Original Message-----

>Also, with rod prepping, I'd figured on polishing 'em a bit, as suggested
in the
>FAQ.  The machine-shop guy recommends shotpeening for strength.  Now I'm
stuck
>wonderring who to trust...  The electronic bible we've all grown to know
and
>trust as gospel (cuz it ~is~ :) or the guy who's actually gonna be doing
the
>work.  Would there be any forseeable problem rough-sanding 'em first, then
>having 'em peened, and then final polishing?  I'm sure I'm talking about
>redundant overkill, but hey, if I'm gonna do part of it, and got the stuff
to do
>it all, why not?  Right?
>
>Any thoughts, suggestions, otherwise???
>
>Thanks, in advance,
>--
>
>Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
>mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
>http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
>http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
>     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
>http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
>http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 09:44:51 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Re. DONOR (save the rocket muscle)

The way I'll be doing my '70 W-31...
_________

Mike, the flaw in that logic is that it is a royal pain to replace the cowl
in an A-body.  The cowl panel, which is composed of three pieces, the
firewall, the top plate that goes under the windshield and dash, and the
air box under the top plate, are all welded into place prior to the
A-pilars and the roof.  Unless you plan to remove and replace the A-pilars,
you'll be left with parts which cannot be lined up correctly and will have
to be forced into place and retained with welds in other than the original
spot weld location.  Good luck and frankly, you'll spend significantly more
money doing this right than what you could buy a rust-free complete W-31
for.  Unless you have significantly more dedication than I do, the result
will likely be that you'll eventually get fed up with the project, and not
only will the W-31 be trashed, but the rust-free donor will also.

Here's my alternative.  As far as I know (and I do not claim to be an
expert) the majority of the hidden VIN locations are on the frame.  I
assume you'll be retaining the original frame and adding the donor body to
it.  I'm told that the only VIN or VIN-derivative numbers on the body shell
of a 68-72 are the actual VIN plate, the body data plate, and the stamped
VIN on the pass side of the firewall (which I have yet to actually locate).
A significantly less expensive route to restoring the car is to drop the
intact donor shell onto the original frame, transfer the VIN plate with the
correct rivets (available in Hemmings), transfer the body data plate, and
cut out the small section of firewall with the stamped VIN and have it
hammer welded into the donor's firewall.  Technically (in a Clintonian
sense) you have _not_ changed the VIN of the car, as the VIN on the body
matches the VIN on the frame.  Will this stand up in court?  Probably not,
however to address the moral issue, you are not creating a fake W-car,
merely restoring one.  To me, this is different than taking the W-parts off
of a trashed car and creating a complete fake (though admittedly a very
fine line...).

I actually find it ironic that we've had this much discussion about
swapping body shells, but no one has denounced swapping out a rusted-out
frame, which effectively also alters a VIN...

Obviously, this is a hypothetical discussion only, no actual cars were
harmed in this discussion...

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 06:52:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Windshield and Backglass leaking

- ---"Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com> wrote:
>
> My windshield is leaking on the driver's side of the car. The water
comes in
> from the top and drips on my steering wheel. I know this sounds like
either
> a seal has 'let go' or rust(bad 4 letter word). The back glass is
leaking
> over the entire length of the top. 
<snip>
> My Q is can I use some clear silicone for the long term(provided
there's no
> rust)around the edge of the windshield?  I don't *want* to take the
glass
> out but, if there's no other option, I will.
<snip>
- -------------------------------------------------------

Donny,

I wouldn't see why not. On my 81 Citation that I use to drive, it had
a sunroof in it. The seal was leaking and it was starting to give my
car a very bad musty smell. Me being in high school, I really didn't
want to put a new seal in, so I grabbed the clear silicone and I
sealed that puppy shut. It stopped the leak. My dad now has the car
and that silicone has lasted for over 4 years now and that is on the
roof in the direct sunlight.

Del

==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 10:59:09 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: ADMIN: Re: get a @Beer.com e-mail adress!

Be careful with this please. I have a constant problem with people
receiving Olds list mail at an address they are not subscribed under. What
happens is that they get an address and then forward it to a second (or
third) one like beer.com. When they get decide they want off the list they
try to uns*b themselves using the forwarded address and it doesn't work. 
Usually then I (or more commonly, the entire list) gets irate messages
saying I've tried to uns*b myself 20 times and it doesn't work, etc. etc.
ad nauseum. Or even worse is when the mailbox at the forwarded site fills
up and I have to unsub them, only that address isn't on the list. Big fun
tracking that down. 

I don't like forwarded email sites when it comes to the list. OK for
personal mail but not this.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 07:09:44 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Exhaust

87-92 dual cats were optional on 350 TPI's.  Not sure about 93 and up.


><< Are the f-bodies true dual exhaust?  I thought they were a Y pipe 
that then
> went into two mufflers.
>  >>
>some of the newer ones are true duals......  after 90 I think
>
>Bill K
>
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 09:40:46 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Windshield and Backglass leaking

Well that is a common problem with the "A" body cars. It all depends if the
car has seen alot of salt in its life. MY car was originally from Texas.
The front window didn't leak, but when we repainted it, we took the front
window out. Upon taking it out we noticed the passenger side lower portion,
where the metal dash and window meet had started to rust. The rust area was
right under where the window/metal seal meets. So there was no way to fix
that, without taking out the window. We cut the rust area out (maybe an 1"
by 1" area) and brazed in new metal. Then painted and resealed the window
back in. 

I know numerous window shops that will not make a quote on a window reseal,
UNLESS they see what in under the window when they take it out. A midwest
(aka saltbelt) car may have extensive rust under the window/cowl area and
may not be noticeable unless the window is removed. 

If you want to do it right, you must take it out. If it is driven from time
to time, then it should be OK, just don't take it out in the rain too
often. This will cause it to rust even more. Like stated before, my window
didn't leak, but when the window was taken out, that's when we noticed the
rust. It was only visible with the window out. The rust formed right where
the seal/window/cowl area met.  
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Arnold, W D <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
> To: 'olds' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Windshield and Backglass leaking
> Date: Wednesday, January 06, 1999 7:40 AM
> 
> My windshield is leaking on the driver's side of the car. The water comes
in
> from the top and drips on my steering wheel. I know this sounds like
either
> a seal has 'let go' or rust(bad 4 letter word). The back glass is leaking
> over the entire length of the top. 
> 
> Once I get the chrome off of my 72 442, I'll be able to determine the
extent
> of the problem. Then, I figure out if it's needs fixing now or if it can
> wait till warm weather or even next year. 
> 
> My Q is can I use some clear silicone for the long term(provided there's
no
> rust)around the edge of the windshield?  I don't *want* to take the glass
> out but, if there's no other option, I will.
> 
> What I had in mind is: pull the molding, check for visible signs, clean
> trough between glass and body, seal the top trough with clear silicone,
and
> reinstall molding.
> 
> I KNOW the right way is to take it out and put in a new roll of goop
(seal)
> and reinstall the glass. AND when I have time I WILL. I just need
something
> that will buy me some time here.
> 
> Anybody had experience with this? 
> 
> I will only drive it occasionally in the next few months and hope to take
it
> to the dragstrip a time or two. After this June, it'll be parked
> indefinitely while I'm enjoying the arrival of my 3rd kid in 3
> years.(Sheesh... tell me about it !! I have *finally* figured what caused
> that...)
>  
> Donny Arnold
> w.d.arnold@lmco.com
> 
> 72  Olds 442  
> 41 Chevy 
> 63 Chevy Truck
> 
> 
>  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 11:25:29 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Dual Exhaust

Dorian said:

<<  KARL! : ) >>


And startled me s badly that I dropped my pizza.

But before that....

<<  So, what about dual exhaust?  Well, I asked them if I could install a
 dual exhaust on my 1975 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale.  They said it would
 be a pain.  Not  only that, but I still had to have one converter.  They
 said I cannot have two converters on a dual exhaust.  If the entire
 system still has two go through one converter, then there would be no
 advantage for two exhausts.   >>

Hi Mark!

I just recently found out more than anyone ever wanted to know about this
subject.

The answer to your question is: splunge!

Really!

(Splunge = yes, but with reservations tending towards no, without being a yes-
man)

Here's the situation:  (this may be subject to local statutes)

(started to go into it in detail, but realized a better way is to include as
an attachment a previous post in plain old ASCII DOS text, sorry digest
folks!)

This is a communique from an EPA employee. Enjoy!


So it is possible, and you might get away with it if you could prove better
emissions. But your state's emissions guys would not like it and hassle you
about it.

So take the easy route:
Get antique plates and go for full duals w/o cats!

Less hassle that way.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 11:25:32 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: RE weather

In a message dated 99-01-04 07:22:50 EST, you write:

<< PS What weight of oil do you use in wintertime? (OLDS content), seriously.
 
 Since normally it doesn't get all that cold here I stick with 10W-30. >>

Due to a recent phobia of additives, karl is still using SAE30 (with
detergent).

Is this bad?

K

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 10:34:49 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Chassis, body, owner's manuals for sale

Chassis body manuals available:
61 Olds  F-85  chassis  good shape
66 Buick all   chassis  large, fair to good shape
76 Olds  all   chassis  cover faded, edges blackened, good otherwise
78 Olds  all   chassis  very good shape
78 Olds  all   body     very good shape
79 Olds  all   chassis  with original box, very good shape
79 Olds  all   body     part of 79 set
80 Olds  all   chassis  very good shape

And the following Owner's manuals:
65 Olds all with protecto plate         very good shape
70 Buick full size with protecto plate  very good shape

Shipping is extra.
- --
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 12:05:19 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Miscelaneous (+ dual exhaust )

Re: Dual Exhaust

Boy can you guys ever beat a dead horse!

karl hit the DEL key so many times the keyboard broke.

And don't clutter the list correcting Karl's spelling.
Just trying to get used to the MS "Natural" keypad.

Sorry that reply was late, but was out bonding with an inadequate snowshovel.

Some recent embarassing activities:
one morning, SOM was sluggish but started, next morning, could tell by the
cranking sound:Uh-Uh!

What? Starter and 1000 CCA batt are recent aquisitions!
(per more embarassing activities that will live on in the archives, along
wilth all the "Dual Exhaust" stuff, sheesh!)

A hunk of ice had grown on my pos batt terminal.
(discharging to everything else in car that same ice clump tontacts that is at
ground!)

DOH!

My boss gave me a jump.

Home again, home again, Jiggety Jig. Good evening J. F.!
Pulled battery indoors to clear ice and create a batt "cozy".

Started fine this morning, though was about 30 degrees warmer, not a real
test.
Mitaswell rerout the batt cables and put dual 1000 CCA's in the trunk.....

And I dropped a shock.
lower bolt broke on old axle.
Local shop had seven or more tow orders by 9:30 am and could'nt fit me.
i thought that was funny.

This morning I made my (only slightly) wayward way to a stopsign that I knew
from a few days ago was a sheet of ice called a street.
The Late-model import behind me suddenly swerved into another lane, stopped,
put on the turn signal to get back behind me.
Some drivers........

And finally, i do have more info on dual exhaust "from the horses mouth", but
considering previous traffic, it might be better if it stayed private.

So Mark?
Send to me at karlAune@aol.com

And my olds really is shaking on some roads, reason discovered and named
above.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 12:20:23 EST
From: Lou0118@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds Mailing List Archive 1600 now available

In a message dated 01/05/1999 1:56:02 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jeff.easton@abbott.com writes:

<< The Archive for the Olds Mailing List, Digests #1600 thru #1699 is now
 available on my web site.  http:\\www.calcon.net\~easton
  >>

Is this address correct.  I could not get to your site.  Having any server
problems?

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 10:37:57 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Olds Mailing List Archive 1600 now available

Try http://www.calcon.net/~easton/ :)

Lou0118@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 01/05/1999 1:56:02 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> jeff.easton@abbott.com writes:
> 
> << The Archive for the Olds Mailing List, Digests #1600 thru #1699 is now
>  available on my web site.  http:\\www.calcon.net\~easton
>   >>
> 
> Is this address correct.  I could not get to your site.  Having any server
> problems?
> 
> Lou Principe
> 69 442 W-30

- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 12:40:44 -0500
From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: Swap meet-MI State Fair

Olds List,
	
		There is a swap meet at the Michigan State Fair grounds in 
Detroit,
(Woodward Ave. and 8 Mile Rd) Jan 9th-10th. This is the largest indoor 2
day event in the country (that's what the flier says). We will be set up
there with Olds parts, decals and literature, should be about 10 of us
there from the "Street Rockets" manning the spots. Stop by and rest your
feet, we are in building #3. If you should venture out, Saturday the 9th
is the BEST day. Times are 8:00-4:00.

          ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
               Mark Cornea (Dr. Decal)  OCA# 4903
                             1970 W30 (red)

                      mailto:drdecal@wwnet.net
                      mailto:mcornea@ford.com

                    Visit http://www.drdecal.com
        ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 12:51:30 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: 73-77 Posi rear FS

Found this on the web, contact him, not me, usual disclaimers....

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

Date of Posting: 3Jan98
Email Address: sargejos@javanet.com
Description: Posi Rearend, 73+ Olds. fresh rebuild, brand new 3:90 gears.
Should fit any same years GM A Body.
I had it biult for my 71 Monte Carlo so I know it doesn't fit 70-72. Never
been installed.(since rebuild) $350
City: Manchester
State: Connecticut

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 12:47:00 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Windshield and Backglass leaking

Hot glue will work nice for this over silicone, it dries hard, less
sticky, seals, has some shape-strength to it...  Fully tested and
reccomended as good short-term fix..  Hot glue-guns are cheap-like
borsche at any hardware-type store and hot glue itself comes in clear,
white and a couple other colours (reccomend clear).  Tip: clean surface,
really hot glue, it's a lot like welding actually.

Eric Aksomitis
http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/biggreen.shtml <-- Has hot glue in this one

Arnold, W D wrote:
> What I had in mind is: pull the molding, check for visible signs, clean
> trough between glass and body, seal the top trough with clear silicone, and
> reinstall molding.
> 
> I KNOW the right way is to take it out and put in a new roll of goop (seal)
> and reinstall the glass. AND when I have time I WILL. I just need something
> that will buy me some time here.
> 
> Anybody had experience with this?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 14:45:07 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds events

In a message dated 1/6/99 9:26:28 AM EST, Lou0118@aol.com writes:

<< I live in New Jersey
 but may go out to Long Island since I grew up there and want to show my car
 off to some old friends. >>

Don't know about Long Island, But Atlantic City Car Show is next month around
the 14th.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv. (duals of course)
                           (drl's parking lights only)
                           (Olds Chrome Mags [prolly off a 77 ninety eight)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 14:48:24 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Cryogenics

     Just read a thing on cryogenics as it applied to rifle barrels. I know
it's not the same application, but what they discovered was that it was a
toss-up. Sometimes it helped, sometimes it didn't. They tested accuracy, as it
was supposed to help in that area. I would think it would be similar to rods
or whatever, supposedly strengthening the metal, less flex I believe is what
they are going for. Now if someone could run the same tests on car parts......
Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 14:53:14 EST
From: Olds442nut@aol.com
Subject: Re: olds events

 The pigeon forge event is being hosted by the following chapters,Smokey
mountain olds
 Music city rockets, the dates are July 15-17 1999. If you would like to
register you can call 423-938-6985 Allan Maples, hotel # 1 800 228 2800.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 14:56:56 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: 425/455 block id help needed

Hello all,
 I need help to id some blocks i have. Two are '67 #389244 /.842 425 blocks, 
marked F5
in the bell area. The other is a 68 or 69 455, marked F5 in the bell area.
 I'm confused, as i thought the lower the bellhousing area "F" #, the 
thicker/older the
block was.
Can someone tell me where the "drillspot" is that is mentioned in Mondello's 
tech book?
 I've looked at the tech pages, and the FAQ pages, and i'm still confused. Is 
there an
area of the Bryceman site that contains the "drillspot" info?
 Please RTP if you don't want to use the bandwidth. TIA
Dave Brode
64 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 15:31:05 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: bellhousing F# confusion

Hell all [again],
 I posted a while ago with questions about the BB "drillspot", and after 
further reading at the FAQ pages i
found the info on that.

 I am still confused about the "F" # in the rear of the block. I had thought 
that the 425 blocks were as
thick as the early 455s. What puzzles me is that my 425 blocks are F5 and F6, 
and i thought these were thick
blocks. Mondello's info doesn't support this. I hope someone can shed some 
light on the bellhousing "F" #s
for me. Thanks.
Dave Brode
64 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 10:37 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: front end geometry and spindle extenders..

   Camber change is bad (unless you're a F*rd twin I-beam front axle 
truck owner and have been forced to learn to love it as there's no 
escape). Sadly my '72 Cutlass Supreme (like every '64-'72 GM A-body, 
and unfortunately many other GM cars too) has a horrible camber curve, 
with the top of the tire moving outwards as the suspension moves up 
into jounce. On taking a look, it is obvious where the problem lies - 
the upper control arm has a large curve in it, bringing the outer 
pivot point (ball joint) much lower than the inner pivot point 
(control arm bushings), so that its tip moves outward as it moves 
upwards.

   After some looking around I found two solutions - one, aftermarket  
upper control arms from Hotchkis or Global West, to be used with 
taller spindles from bigger GM cars (very pricy) and two, something 
called a spindle extender, which bolts between the spindle and the 
upper control arm, effectively making the spindle longer, using a 
minimum of modifications. Sounds good, but I also read something to 
the effect that these spindle extenders with stock upper control arms 
could over-angle the ball joints (by effectively pushing the upper 
control arm further into jounce than it was designed to go) and cause 
failure while you're driving along. Not a pretty thought.  So, here's 
the question. I would guess that by modifying the rubber suspension 
bump stops to limit the amount of jounce travel, one could use the 
spindle extenders without over angling the ball joint.  Anyone have 
experience or info on this? Also, anyone know of a source for these 
spindle extenders?


- -John Carri
'72 Cutlass Supreme
'73 Plymouth Roadrunner


P.S.  Not trying to hurt anyone's feelings by negative comments about 
GM suspension geometry, I love my Olds but am not blind to its faults.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 15:54:16 -0500
From: "jhurd" <jhurd@neo.rr.com>
Subject: Rear Vacuum Brake

	I have a 1987 Cutlass Salon 307 V8 (vin y) that has me stumped.  For 
the
last month or so the car runs REAL rich at first start-up in the morning
(pouring out a huge cloud of white/brown smoke).  After 30 seconds or so
the car idles smooth and runs fine.  I had this problem on my '79 260 V8,
and figured the RVB (Rear Vacuum Brake) wasn't pulling the choke off quick
enough after cold start-up.  Well that was my problem on my '79, but the
'87 doesn't seem to want to go down without a fight.  Adjusting the linkage
didn't help, and after some observing and digging through my shop manual I
found out some interesting scoop.  Seems there is a solenoid (the RVB
solenoid) that controls vacuum to the RVB.  The manual says that under
certain cold weather conditions, the RVB solenoid will be energized for
about 30 seconds, which will not allow vacuum to the RVB, keeping the choke
closed longer.  Well the weather outside and in my garage is around 10-20
F.  The manual didn't say what these "cold weather conditions" are.  I
performed the tests/checks as the manual states and everything checks out.
I figure there must be a sensor that is telling the ECM we are under "cold
weather conditions" and to energize the RVB, eventhough it doesn't need to
be.  Any other ideas as to what could be happening?  Any help would be
appreciated.

I recently installed a new TVS (Thermal Vacuum Switch) since my EFE (Early
Fuel Valve) wasn't operating.  Right after that was when my problems began.
 I thought the coolant sensor would be the problem since I have some other
symptoms that would suggest that, (slight pinging after start-up, TCC
problems) but it seems to check out to spec.




Jim H.
'87 Salon

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1704
*********************************

