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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1726


oldsmobile-digest     Thursday, January 21 1999     Volume 01 : Number 1726



Re: FS: More New Stuff
Re: grills needed
RE: 68 W30 questions (last word)
1969 Olds convertible on eBay.
Re: Private party buying over the net
Re: grills needed
68 W30 Hone Overdrive?
Re: Resistor Wire terminal; hot in run *and* start?
Re: Looking for '68 4-bbl vacuum break
Re: Looking for '68 4-bbl vacuum break
Re: 68 W30 Hone Overdrive?
Re: More New Stuff
Re: Wire Hubcaps
Re: 30th Anniversary Cutlass F/S
Re: '71 Olds ID
Re: grills needed
Re: Private party buying over the net
Re: Resistor Wire terminal; hot in run *and* start?
Re: Resistor Wire terminal; hot in run *and* start?
Re: Crane Rocker Arms/pedestals for SBO
Re: Private party buying over the net
Re: Private party buying over the net
spindle swaps
car question
UNBOUNCE: '65 Dynamic 88 FS (Phila, Pa.)
RE: 68 W30 questions 
Re: Resistor Wire terminal; hot in run *and* start?
sorry none olds.
Re: 1964 Dynamic 88 for sale in chicago!
Re: 1964 Dynamic 88 for sale in chicago! (fwd)
Incompetent parts stores (81 Cutlass)
RE: 81 Cutlass
RE: test, ignore, unless your really bored ;)
sway bars and ride quality..
sway bars and ride quality..
Boring early 400 block
Re: 1964 Dynamic 88 for sale in chicago! (fwd)
Re: 81 Cutlass
m/t covers
65 442 for sale(maybe)
Re: 65 442 for sale(maybe)
Re: 65 442 for sale(maybe)
Leaving the list
Year One discounts
Re: Private party buying over the net
Plastic Gauge Lenses -- How to Polish
REMOVE ME FROM THE LIST
Re: Plastic Gauge Lenses -- How to Polish
ebay redline Olds 442 ?
Re: Plastic Gauge Lenses -- How to Polish
Re: ebay redline Olds 442 ?
Re: Wire Hubcaps
HEI Question and comment (not trying to run this in the ground...but)
Re: 88 Cutlass GT (long)
Re: Incompetent parts stores (81 Cutlass)
Edelbrock Numbers

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 00:46:03 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: FS: More New Stuff

How much?
LP.
nurelic@primenet.com
- -----Original Message-----
From: WBrad442@aol.com <WBrad442@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, January 19, 1999 7:51 PM
Subject: Re: FS: More New Stuff


>i own a 65 442 
>body is almost cherry
>interior rough
>worked 72 455 underhood
>muncie 4 spd
>oe floor tach with console
>might want to sell
>arizona   any one looking?
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 08:12:20 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: grills needed

Ed, 
Need a 75 left grille, Supreme, if you get two I'll take the left, fine
condition is poss, 
Lou

- ----------
> From: Edward Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
> To: Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: grills needed
> Date: Tuesday, January 19, 1999 9:07 PM
> 
> I need '75 Supreme right grill or a set of '75 Salon grills.
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 14:25:32 +0100
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: 68 W30 questions (last word)

> WARNING:  The following could rival the Great Transmission Pipe Clip
> debate...
OH OH ... not that!!!!

<snip of good info dug up by Joe)
> 4.33 with posi was standard in MT W-30s in 68 and I submit that it was
> factory installed in the W-30 application only.  I'd certainly appreciate
> any other data one way or the other one this, though my only other data
> point is my personal 68 W-30, which does have the 4.33 posi.
> 
But now the $5million dollar question .... Does your 68 W-30 have the TW (I
believe) axle code stamped on it?  Don't recall if you ever stated that, but
then again, not finding the axle code is a lot easier than finding it as
many a list member have already found out.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris/

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 07:49:36 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: 1969 Olds convertible on eBay.

I thought this might interest someone and I didn't recall seeing it before.

Very nice car in very nice shape. 351 Rocket 3spd.auto. 1969 Cutlass S
Convertible. Red on black on black. Solid runner. Gorgeous to look at.
     Truly. Two rips in otherwise excellent top at hinges. (easily fixable).
Bodywork done right two years ago. Top end rebuild 1 year ago. New master cyl.
     There's lots to tell about this great car, and I have no reason to hide
anything. Selling because it's just sitting there in storage doing nothing for
the winter.  Once the snow melts, I'm keeping it for another summer. We can
talk about delivery almost anywhere, because I'd love one last road-trip.
Reasonable guy, reasonable charge. No suprises. Promise. Pete in Whistler BC.
PS.this is not the 442 model... 3spd. 2bbl. 1exhaust. US Dollars please. Happy
to e-mail you a photo. pooter@direct.ca

Current bid is $3,500 US at
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=57531690
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 09:39:31 -0500
From: "Chris Urban" <urbanch@magi.com>
Subject: Re: Private party buying over the net

Bought a front bumper off a guy once and he assured me it was mint, but when
it arrived it turned out to be core at best.


- -----Original Message-----
From: Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, January 19, 1999 7:07 PM
Subject: Re: Private party buying over the net


>Del:
>Sent a guy a check for a used left grille for the 75, that was 4 months
>ago, haven't heard a word since!  At least he hasn't cashed the check yet.
>Maybe I'm too impatient. Checking acct a b*tch to balance though, always
>have too much money, thats a switch, huh?
>Master Lou
>lbiggs@intertek.net
>
>
>> > List,
>> >
>> > I have a question for anyone who has ever bought parts from a private
>> > party over the net. What's the best way to go about it? How can I make
>> > sure that I don't get screwed? I have a guy who e-mailed me saying
>> > that he has a few things I could use. It sounds good, I just want to
>> > cover all the bases since I don't know him.
>> >
>> > Thanks,
>> > Del
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 10:02:58 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: grills needed

I'm painting them black anyway, how much?

- -----Original Message-----

>
>They are chromed plastic with 7 vertical bars, I can't really say the
>exact condition of them, but if you would like, I could always find out.
>I think they may be perfectly intact, just a little weathered. Can they
>be re-chromed? Let me know if you're interested.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> 
>> >
>> >How about a set of 'S' grills?
>> >
>> >-Matt Cremean
>> >
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 07:18:03 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: 68 W30 Hone Overdrive?

>I had a 68 sports coupe w-30 bench seat column shift. 1 of 69 made.  The
>car came with a 3.42 open rear end.  You state that posi was standard, does
>this mean that open rears were not available?
>___________

>Bob,

>While I certainly can't prove that no 68 W-30s were built without posi, the
>factory literature indicates that all came with the posi rear.  The 4.33 is
>listed as the standard ratio for MT cars - I don't have the info with me at
>the office to tell you the standard ratio for AT cars (mine's an MT car and
>has the 4.33 posi).  Did you buy the car new, or is it possible that the
>original rear was changed out at some point for the 3.42?  I'm sure the
>4.33s were a bear on the street.  My car had a Hone overdrive unit
>installed by a previous owner - unfortunately it was gone by the time I got
>the car.

>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com

Joe,
	You said that your car had a Hone OD unit installed by a previous
owner.  What was this exactly, I've never heard of it.  I assume that it was
totally aftermarket, not a dealer option?
	The 4-4-2 W/4.33s must really haul butt, I had no idea until this
thread that they were the std. gear ratio.

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 10:39:05 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Resistor Wire terminal; hot in run *and* start?

>Doc Bob,
>There was an empty receptor in the fuse panel marked "IGN" on my 69. By
>plugging into this, I was able to eliminate the wire from the starter. Just

I'll have to peruse the wiring diagrams and see what is connected to both
the "ON" and "RUN" positions of the ignition switch. I'd like to keep the
wire entirely on the engine side of the firewall, though I could route a
connector to a vacant slot on the firewall connector, I suppose. The
simpler the better.

>a guess, but I would assume the resistor wire gets (+) voltage only in the
>run position. If it got both, there probably wouldn't be a need for the "S"
>wire on the starter.

The "S" terminal provides the full 12v of (+) power to the coil for
startup, and after cranking the coil only sees the 7-9v from the resistor
wire to prevent burning up the points.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 10:40:39 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Looking for '68 4-bbl vacuum break

>I am looking to replace the vacuum break/choke pull-off on my '68, carb
>#7028250. Fusick's couldn't supply one when I was there last year, and I
>got the impression they were hard to find. Anyone here have a new one or
>know where I can get one? I admit, I haven't looked very hard; they may be
>still available from GM for all I know... thanks in advance!

I picked up two for my '68 and '69 divorced-choke q-jets last year; they
were over the counter at a local parts store. You may have to order it from
a warehouse, but they're not at all exotic. I suspect Fusick's may not
carry them because they are simply so common.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 08:12:24 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Looking for '68 4-bbl vacuum break

> >I am looking to replace the vacuum break/choke pull-off on my '68,
carb
> >#7028250. Fusick's couldn't supply one when I was there last year,
and I
> >got the impression they were hard to find. Anyone here have a new
one or
> >know where I can get one? I admit, I haven't looked very hard; they
may be
> >still available from GM for all I know... thanks in advance!
===========================
I replaced mine on my 70 Olds 350. I got the part over the counter
from Champion. They were my first stop for in town parts.
Unfortunately, they all went belly-up and closed. :-(

==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 11:26:30 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: 68 W30 Hone Overdrive?

The Hone OD was a gear reduction unit that bolted onto the back of the
trans. It added another lever sticking out of the floor. They were dealer
installed back then as far as I know. I've seen a Baldwin Motion '70
Chevelle with an M-22 and a Hone OD. I forget the exact reduction ratio but
I believe the Hone would turn 4.88's into something like 3.42's when
engaged. It worked like a transfer case on a 4x4 pretty much. I'm sure Joe
P. can further clarify the thing but I just had to get in my .02.

Omega man

'74 Omega S 455






At 07:18 AM 1/20/99 -0800, you wrote:
>>I had a 68 sports coupe w-30 bench seat column shift. 1 of 69 made.  The
>>car came with a 3.42 open rear end.  You state that posi was standard, does
>>this mean that open rears were not available?
>>___________
>
>>Bob,
>
>>While I certainly can't prove that no 68 W-30s were built without posi, the
>>factory literature indicates that all came with the posi rear.  The 4.33 is
>>listed as the standard ratio for MT cars - I don't have the info with me at
>>the office to tell you the standard ratio for AT cars (mine's an MT car and
>>has the 4.33 posi).  Did you buy the car new, or is it possible that the
>>original rear was changed out at some point for the 3.42?  I'm sure the
>>4.33s were a bear on the street.  My car had a Hone overdrive unit
>>installed by a previous owner - unfortunately it was gone by the time I got
>>the car.
>
>>Joe Padavano
>>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>Joe,
>	You said that your car had a Hone OD unit installed by a previous
>owner.  What was this exactly, I've never heard of it.  I assume that it was
>totally aftermarket, not a dealer option?
>	The 4-4-2 W/4.33s must really haul butt, I had no idea until this
>thread that they were the std. gear ratio.
>
>Steve Reed
>'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
>Austin, TX
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 10:24:22 -0600
From: "Greg" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: More New Stuff

I sold mine for $250.....I'm kicking myself in the pants.
greg z

>70-72 Rally Pacs (nice complete setups)  $525.00 ea.
>Jim Chermack
>C&M Classic Parts
>(757)474-0869
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 08:17:41 -0800
From: "John Young" <realtorjohn@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Wire Hubcaps

 For what its worth, in college we would put them in the fraternity (read
commercial) dishwasher. If you know any friends at a resturant?
 realtorjohn@sprynet.com
69 442 W-32
- ----------
> From: OLDS44272@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Fwd: Wire Hubcaps
> Date: Tuesday, January 19, 1999 6:46 PM
> 
> In a message dated 1/19/99 5:56:01 PM Eastern Standard Time,
cshankle@home.com
> writes:
> 
> << This may apply more to the G Body folks than anyone else, but all
>  replies are welcomed, of course.
>  
>  Has anyone had any luck cleaning their Cutlass wire wheel covers?  After
>  all the filthy horrible snow and road salt lately my hubcaps are looking
>  pretty horrid. 
	

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 11:35:33 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 30th Anniversary Cutlass F/S

>Stopped by the Olds dealer tonight and noticed a car with an unusual
>badge on the fender.  I went to look at it and it was a "30th
>Anniversary Special Edition" Cutlass Supreme SL.  The car is black with
>gold stripes.  Interesting part is the car is a 1997!  Now I know when I
>was growing up 1964 plus 30 equaled 1994 not 1997.  This doesn't even
>fit with the Cutlass Supreme, because that was first offered in 1966.

I thought that the Supreme was introduced on the '67 line, and that the 442
was only available on that model, being a high-end upgrade to the new
high-end Cutlass model. Those two facts always seemed to go hand in hand
with each other.

FWIW, if 1967 was the first year of Supreme production, the _1996_ Cutlass
Supreme would have been the 30th year of the Cutlass Supreme model anyway
(count it out on your fingers...), so there's a whole lot of liberty taken
with "anniversary" models.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 11:31:18 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: '71 Olds ID

 [snip]
>Vista Cruiser (L30 2bbl motor or L32 4bbl motor).  The largest engine
>available in the F-85, Cutlass, or Cutlass S in 1971 was the 350.  Note
>that this is different from 1970, when the L33 320 HP 455 _was_ available
>in the Cutlass, Cutlass S, and F-85.  Also, in 1972, the L75 455 4bbl was

Note that the L33 2-bbl 455 was only available through February of 1970,
when it was discontinued in all lines. As the only high-compression 2-bbl
455, it was listed as the "high-performance" or "high-output" 2-bbl 455
option, in distinction from the low-performance, low-compression L-30(?)
455 that the big cars carried. It was only produced from Sept. 1969 through
February of 1970, making it one of the Olds engines with the shortest
production runs.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 11:46:23 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: grills needed

Ed Binnix wrote:
> 
> I'm painting them black anyway, how much?
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> >
> >They are chromed plastic with 7 vertical bars, I can't really say the
> >exact condition of them, but if you would like, I could always find out.
> >I think they may be perfectly intact, just a little weathered. Can they
> >be re-chromed? Let me know if you're interested.

Well, let me find out if they're still in decent shape and fully intact.
If they are both good, you can make me an offer. Thanks Ed.

- -Matt Cremean

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 12:02:34 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Private party buying over the net

I've bought a few items from "regulars" on this list. Always got what was
claimed.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 11:26:29 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Resistor Wire terminal; hot in run *and* start?

I believe from the car I changed (which I don't have anymore), that the
resistor wire is live for start and Run, but the extra wire just boosts
the voltage on start.  EASY TEST:
Disconnect starter wire from ignition, and the car should start almost
as good (in Winter, the extra volts are supposed to be good for a cold
start).  IT should, however, fire while turning over and then start and
run fine.

The easiest tests are always the best ones to do first....

Eric
http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/


Robert Barry wrote:
> My only question is whether the terminal that the resistor wire connects to
> gets (+) voltage in the "start" as well as in the "run" position. In other
> words, does the coil get voltage from the "S" wire only, or from the "S"
> and the resistor wire, when you are cranking the starter?
> 
> If not, I'll have to retain the wire from the "S" terminal on the starter
> as well, which won't be as clean as I'd like.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 10:54:36 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Resistor Wire terminal; hot in run *and* start?

Eric wrote:
> 
> I believe from the car I changed (which I don't have anymore), that the
> resistor wire is live for start and Run, but the extra wire just boosts
> the voltage on start.  EASY TEST:
> Disconnect starter wire from ignition, and the car should start almost
> as good (in Winter, the extra volts are supposed to be good for a cold
> start).  IT should, however, fire while turning over and then start and
> run fine.

My understanding is that cranking the starter brings down the volts so far that
the full voltage is used in order to get enough voltage.  When starting the
regular voltage drops to 9 or 10 and the resisted voltage drops down to about
5v.  Using the 9 or 10 for a few seconds won't hurt the coil but helps make a
better-than-usual spark.

That's my understanding from the electrical books, doesn't mean it's correct.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 12:15:09 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: Crane Rocker Arms/pedestals for SBO

These new units sound like the  old 65 units.
Does anyone have a picture off them?
Roger

- ----------
Yeah, weren't these adjustable? I mean didn't they allow for small
adjustments in the Olds valve train?

- --
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 11:47:40 -0800 (PST)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Private party buying over the net

I'd say, have him send the stuff COD, that way, you'll definitely get
the parts, and he'll definitely get the $$, once you get the parts.

That's what I would do...
                 Stefan
                 1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
                 70cutlass@beer.com

- ---Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> List,
> 
> I have a question for anyone who has ever bought parts from a private
> party over the net. What's the best way to go about it? How can I make
> sure that I don't get screwed? I have a guy who e-mailed me saying
> that he has a few things I could use. It sounds good, I just want to
> cover all the bases since I don't know him.
> 
> Thanks,
> Del
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ==
> Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> rockman20@yahoo.com
> 1986 Honda Accord DX
> 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
> 1981 John Deer Snowmobile
> 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
> 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
> 
> 

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 15:49:00 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Private party buying over the net

On Wed, 20 Jan 1999, Chris Urban wrote:
> Bought a front bumper off a guy once and he assured me it was mint, but when
> it arrived it turned out to be core at best.

That's a rough one and nearly a worst-case scenario, but in some ways it's
not all that different from buying stuff via catalogs or traditional mail
order. While a reputable firm will accept returns and offer refunds, it is
often difficult to do if long distances and bulky or expensive items are
involved. This reminds me of the sour experience I had buying a bumper I
saw advertised in Hemmings from the infamous Bumper Boyz in L.A. -- the
hassle and expense of returning the thing wasn't worth the trouble. But I
would never have paid what it ended up costing me if I had seen it in
person beforehand. 

I find the best way to do it is to talk to the person via telephone if you
are at all unsure. Having said that, I have bought several items via ebay
and have had no troubles so far with those vendors, and haven't actually
talked to a single one.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 11:52 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: spindle swaps

   Well, I've read the FAQ on the subject of swapping taller
spindles into A-body front suspensions for improved camber
curves, but find the info there somewhat confusing. Here's
what I understood from the FAQ, perhaps someone on the
list could confirm or correct the following :

1) 2nd generation (1970 - 1981) F-body spindles can be
swapped into A-bodies; the swap requires machining the
ball-joints & special tie-rod ends available at one time
from HO racing and maybe Global West.

2) Some unspecified full-size GM station wagons (anyone
know specific models and model years to help me find them
in the junkyard ?) have spindles which will fit into
A-bodies and permit use of huge 1LE Camaro 12" brake
rotors. No modifications to tie-rod ends or balljoints
needed.

3) Both of the above swaps will require huge amounts of
shimming of the upper control arm mounts to restore static
camber settings, alternatively an offset cross-shaft from
Moog can be used to reduce the number of shims needed,
alternatively the (very pricey) custom upper control arms
from Global West or Hotchkis can be used.


   Is this substantially correct? If item (2) is correct,
why does anyone use the F-body spindle swap which requires
machining, etc? Is there any advantage the F-body spindles
have which the other station-wagon spindles don't?

- -John Carri  (confused but in search of more lateral 
              acceleration)
'72 Supreme
'73 Plymouth Road Runner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 15:05:14 EST
From: Bridalboy@aol.com
Subject: car question

Hi my name is martin kane, I live in Philadelphia Pa. and have an Oldsmobile
Dynamic 88 for sale it is a 1965 with a 425 v8 under the hood, it needs some
work but would like to sell it to someone who would want to possibly restore
it.  So any help you can provide with maybe where to post the car or who I
should talk to would be appreciated.

thanks Martin Kane

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 16:22:18 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '65 Dynamic 88 FS (Phila, Pa.)

Not on the list, respond to Bridalboy@aol.com if interested.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Bridalboy@aol.com
Subject: car question

Hi my name is martin kane, I live in Philadelphia Pa. and have an Oldsmobile
Dynamic 88 for sale it is a 1965 with a 425 v8 under the hood, it needs some
work but would like to sell it to someone who would want to possibly restore
it.  So any h*lp you can provide with maybe where to post the car or who I
should talk to would be appreciated.

thanks Martin Kane

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 12:45:41 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: 68 W30 questions 

What would a 68 442, 4 speed non w30 have?


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 15:26:07 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Resistor Wire terminal; hot in run *and* start?

Cliff, 
Years ago I tried bypassing the resistor to get a hotter spark, fried the
points after 50 miles or so, it's for starting only as you stated. It was
an Olds with reg ignition, cooked those boys good.
Master Lou
lbiggs@intertek.net

> From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Resistor Wire terminal; hot in run *and* start?
> Date: Wednesday, January 20, 1999 11:54 AM
ip).
> 
> My understanding is that cranking the starter brings down the volts so
far that
> the full voltage is used in order to get enough voltage.  When starting
the
> regular voltage drops to 9 or 10 and the resisted voltage drops down to
about
> 5v.  Using the 9 or 10 for a few seconds won't hurt the coil but helps
make a
> better-than-usual spark.
> 
> That's my understanding from the electrical books, doesn't mean it's
correct.
> -- 
> 
> Cliff Simpson
> csimpson@ucalgary.ca
> '69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
> http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 22:42:12 +0100
From: "Trond-Jarle Pedersen" <trondped@c2i.net>
Subject: sorry none olds.

 Fellow olds heads.
 I nead some help.
 how the f*ck do i remove explorer 4.01sp?
 in ad/remove i only can ad a component to explorer or remove the windows
 desktop update.
 I`m running win 95 not 98.
 
 Please mail ansvers to me PRIVATLY so we dont waste to much bandwith


 Trond-Jarle Pedersen
ICQ:15898213
mailto:trondped@c2i.net

69 F-85

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 15:54:05 -0600 (CST)
From: "Jonah B. Kadish" <kadijon@charlie.cns.iit.edu>
Subject: Re: 1964 Dynamic 88 for sale in chicago!

Hi I just wanted to send out a little note to let people I am selling a 64
dynamic 88 in pretty good shape
(you can see it at http://www.442.com/jonah.html ).
I will consider any resonable offer so don't be shy!!!! Please e-mail me
if you or someone you know might be interested. 

				Thanks,
				   Jonah Kadish
				   kadijon@charlie.iit.edu	


//----------------------------------------------------------------------// 
//  Jonah Kadish                      resume:                           //  
//  3361 S. wabash                    www.iit.edu/~kadijon/resume.html  //
//  Chicago, IL                       personal page:                    //
//  312-328-0694                      www.stuart.iit.edu/students/jonah // 
//----------------------------------------------------------------------//
          

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 16:07:54 -0600 (CST)
From: "Jonah B. Kadish" <kadijon@charlie.cns.iit.edu>
Subject: Re: 1964 Dynamic 88 for sale in chicago! (fwd)

Hi I just wanted to send out a little note to let people I am selling a 64
dynamic 88 in pretty good shape
(you can see it at http://www.442.com/jonah.html ).
I will consider any resonable offer so don't be shy!!!! Please e-mail me
if you or someone you know might be interested. 

				Thanks,
				   Jonah Kadish
				   kadijon@charlie.iit.edu	


//----------------------------------------------------------------------// 
//  Jonah Kadish                      resume:                           //  
//  3361 S. wabash                    www.iit.edu/~kadijon/resume.html  //
//  Chicago, IL                       personal page:                    //
//  312-328-0694                      www.stuart.iit.edu/students/jonah // 
//----------------------------------------------------------------------//
          

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 17:20:41 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: Incompetent parts stores (81 Cutlass)

- -----Original Message-----
 I'm not terribly impressed
with most parts clerks.  I had a lengthy arguement with one once as to
whether my Vista Cruiser was a fullsize car....It's misize, I don't care
how big it is, fullsize parts don't fit it.

The Big A in Doylestown, PA claim that there is no such engine as a 403.  I
must be thinking of a 400.  yep. Who wants to go to Big-A, Bi-Ga, Be Gay
anyway?

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass (hybernating)
84 Calais ($200!)
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 17:21:45 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: 81 Cutlass

- -----Original Message-----



My sister had a Cutlass Calais.  I always thought it was strange. I had
never seen a G-body  Calais before.  It was a highly optioned car.  It
even had a power sunroof (couldn't get it to work though). It was a 81
or 82, I can't remember at the moment.

My 84 Calais has a special option that Olds called "the Buick 30 second
1/8th mile engine".

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass (hybernating)
84 Calais ($200!)
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 17:23:45 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: test, ignore, unless your really bored ;)

Buzzcocks?

- -----Original Message-----
Boredom boredom boredom!
Erik

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 14:48 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: sway bars and ride quality..

   Several days ago there was a discussion on this list regarding
heavy sway bars affecting ride quality, as well as some questions 
about endlink length. Energy Suspension points out that for the
swaybar to work best its ends should be horizontal with the car at
rest on a level surface. The stock endlinks on my Supreme were too
short for the stock 7/8" bar, letting its ends droop significanly
downward.

   One more thing - for the sway bar to affect ride quality as
little as possible, it should have no preload. This means that 
with the car on a level surface and you or something weighing
the same as you in the drivers seat the sway bar should not 
experience any twist. For this to be true, usually one endlink
needs to be slightly shorter than the other, probably the
one on the drivers side. My solution is to use one regular
endlink, but for the other side to remove the spacer on the
endlink bolt and instead use two nuts snugged up against each
other to set the endlink length. Do this with the car on level
ground and a sack of sand or something in the drivers seat. 
Just set the nuts so that the endlink bushings all have about
the same preload force on them.

- -John Carri

'72 Supreme
'73 Plymouth Road Runner

   

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 14:48 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: sway bars and ride quality..

   Several days ago there was a discussion on this list regarding
heavy sway bars affecting ride quality, as well as some questions 
about endlink length. Energy Suspension points out that for the
swaybar to work best its ends should be horizontal with the car at
rest on a level surface. The stock endlinks on my Supreme were too
short for the stock 7/8" bar, letting its ends droop significanly
downward.

   One more thing - for the sway bar to affect ride quality as
little as possible, it should have no preload. This means that 
with the car on a level surface and you or something weighing
the same as you in the drivers seat the sway bar should not 
experience any twist. For this to be true, usually one endlink
needs to be slightly shorter than the other, probably the
one on the drivers side. My solution is to use one regular
endlink, but for the other side to remove the spacer on the
endlink bolt and instead use two nuts snugged up against each
other to set the endlink length. Do this with the car on level
ground and a sack of sand or something in the drivers seat. 
Just set the nuts so that the endlink bushings all have about
the same preload force on them.

- -John Carri

'72 Supreme
'73 Plymouth Road Runner

   

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 16:59:24 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Boring early 400 block

Hey everyone,
While working on the FAQ I came across a discussion about how much the
early 400 block can be bored. Some say the 400 and 425 were actually
different castings (even though they shared the same crank and rods) so
a 400 block can't be bored out to 425 specs, while others say the blocks
were the same and the 400 cylinder walls are really thick, so bore away
and make it a 425.

My question, could it be that blocks that were found/thought to be core
shifted during casting have been made into 400s, while the non/less
shifted castings became 425s? Just a wild thought. Anyone with the
scoop? BTW, how much shift are we talking about? Pretty small I'd think?
TIA.
- --
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 17:01:02 -0600 (CST)
From: "Jonah B. Kadish" <kadijon@charlie.cns.iit.edu>
Subject: Re: 1964 Dynamic 88 for sale in chicago! (fwd)

Hi I just wanted to send out a little note to let people I am selling a 64
dynamic 88 in pretty good shape
(you can see it at http://www.442.com/jonah.html ).
I will consider any resonable offer so don't be shy!!!! Please e-mail me
if you or someone you know might be interested. 

				Thanks,
				   Jonah Kadish
				   kadijon@charlie.iit.edu	


//----------------------------------------------------------------------// 
//  Jonah Kadish                      resume:                           //  
//  3361 S. wabash                    www.iit.edu/~kadijon/resume.html  //
//  Chicago, IL                       personal page:                    //
//  312-328-0694                      www.stuart.iit.edu/students/jonah // 
//----------------------------------------------------------------------//
          

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 17:57:01 EST
From: MFATZII@aol.com
Subject: Re: 81 Cutlass

According to the VIN on my 83 parts car it is a Calias, but it says Calais
nowhere on the car. In fact it says Cutlass Supreme Brougham.  It also has
spoke caps, no sun roof, no buckets, only clock ,a/c, and cruise for options.
So what is supposed to be sporty about it?  The 307 4bbl?

Ryan

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 18:01:10 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: m/t covers

anyone looking for a set of these?  i may have a set for sale soon.  just
wondering.....

mikeytvb@aol.com
70 442 hc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 18:11:43 EST
From: WBrad442@aol.com
Subject: 65 442 for sale(maybe)

i own a 65 442 that i haven't done much with since 91 when my left knee
took a dump on me. it is arizona rust free, never been hit in rear (factory
welds
on bottom of quarters)  body is almost cherry. has a worked 72 455 under the
hood. muncie 4 speed, factory tach on factory console. interior is rough, but
livable
has cragar SS's with goodyears.   can drive home to any state(except Hawaii)
but
I wouldn't want to buy the gas. I don't really need to sell it, but i would
for the right
price. Like I said, I have have a hard time driving it 'cause of knee. Maybe
I'll change it
over to automatic.
Bill Bradfield    Gilbert Az.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 15:25:47 -0800
From: "Wayne Vertz" <twvertz@3-cities.com>
Subject: Re: 65 442 for sale(maybe)

Bill,
    What price will you be asking for the monster :-)
                                      Wayne Vertz
- -----Original Message-----
From: WBrad442@aol.com <WBrad442@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, January 20, 1999 3:14 PM
Subject: 65 442 for sale(maybe)


>i own a 65 442 that i haven't done much with since 91 when my left knee
>took a dump on me. it is arizona rust free, never been hit in rear (factory
>welds
>on bottom of quarters)  body is almost cherry. has a worked 72 455 under
the
>hood. muncie 4 speed, factory tach on factory console. interior is rough,
but
>livable
>has cragar SS's with goodyears.   can drive home to any state(except
Hawaii)
>but
>I wouldn't want to buy the gas. I don't really need to sell it, but i would
>for the right
>price. Like I said, I have have a hard time driving it 'cause of knee.
Maybe
>I'll change it
>over to automatic.
>Bill Bradfield    Gilbert Az.
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 18:43:41 EST
From: WBrad442@aol.com
Subject: Re: 65 442 for sale(maybe)

I've owned it since about 86
probably invested about $13,000    but i'ts not worth that much.
(you know old cars are money pits)  I did a lot of mondello stuff to the motor
and
had a special 12 in clutch made for me. i'ts really fast.
I don't have to sell it but thought I'd post an e-mail since i hooked up with
this 
old olds thing. I'd take $7,500 or so.
Bill

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 18:50:10 EST
From: MAY442@aol.com
Subject: Leaving the list

Can you please take me off the list for awhile. I will let you know when I
will be returning.  

Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 19:31:20 -0500 (EST)
From: zcwp11@Access.ETSU.Edu
Subject: Year One discounts

Hello all...

Some of you might have wondered what happened to the year one discounts I
was working on for Olds list members.  Called Year One today to see what
was the hold up... I hadn't heard anything from them.  It seems that
although the person whim whom I was originally dealing is no longer
working for the company (presumably... THAT was the holdup) the discounts
are in place.  I was told that the club discount was 5% on all items under
$99 each and 10% on all items over $99 each.  These same numbers apply to
multiple orders too... in other words... if you get 3 things at 50 bucks
apiece... you'll only get 5% off even though your total will be over $99.
Hope that makes sense.  If you were one of the ones who wrote to me with
your address etc. then to confirm that a discount is in place for you dial
1-800-950-9503 and speak to somebody in sales... they can look up your
account information by the address and see if you have the club discount
or not.  If you SHOULD have the discount... but do not... contact me.  

To those who haven't asked to be included... but would like to be... send
me an e-mail with your full name and address (street address... not
e-mail) and I will send Year One an update.

G-body list members are welcome to join in on the discount too... but
Year One doesn't really sell any parts (except for engine parts etc) for
anything newer than 1973.

Any questions... contact me privately.


    |        Peace, Goodwill, and happy Oldsmobilling,
   /|\       Clayton Pierce,
  / | \      school:  zcwp11@Access.ETSU.edu
 |  |  |     home:  the_rocketeer@rocketmail.com
 |  |  |     
 |  |  |     "There's no replacement for displacement!"
 | / \ |     
 |/   \|     1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
  \   /         (RIP) (350, 4bbl, TH400, 3.73:1, 80k miles)
   \ /          http://www.442.com/pierce.html
    |        1982 Oldsmobile Cutlass Brougham
		(parts car) (307, 4bbl, TH350, 2.14:1, 90k miles)
	     1980 Rover 3500 SD1
	        (215 V8, FI, BW66, 85k miles)
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/othercars.html
     	     1979 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
		(260 V8, 2bbl, TH350)
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/79cutlass.html
	     1965 Pontiac Bonneville Sports Coupe
		(389, 4bbl, TH400, 110k miles) "Look ma' no EGR!"
		http://lazarus.ehc.edu/~float/tempclay/bonneville.html
	     1962 Ford F100 Fleetside
		(I-6, 1bbl, 3spd on coll, lotsa miles)
i

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 19:37:06 EST
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: Private party buying over the net

How about services?  Anyone had any trouble sending _your_ stuff out and
getting something else back?  I just sent my TicTocTach out to the Tachman.
'Not worried about him. He's been around a long time. But for future
reference, any horror stories about other service providers?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 19:41:03 EST
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Plastic Gauge Lenses -- How to Polish

Any tips on products or methods to use to remove scratches..?  These things
cost way too much (for what they are) to replace.  Bought some Meguire's #10
something or other and it's nowhere near aggressive enough.  Got a Dremel tool
for Christmas and was hoping some sort of compound would work with that to do
the job. TIA.
Scott
71 442 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 16:44:58 -0800
From: Michael Hemp <histryco@redshift.com>
Subject: REMOVE ME FROM THE LIST

PLEASE REMOVE ME FROM THE LIST.

THANKS,

M.K. HEMP

Live aloha...

Michael

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 20:19:51 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Plastic Gauge Lenses -- How to Polish

In a message dated 1/20/99 4:49:15 PM Pacific Standard Time,
CPEARLPARK@aol.com writes:

<< Any tips on products or methods to use to remove scratches..?  These things
 cost way too much (for what they are) to replace.  Bought some Meguire's #10
 something or other and it's nowhere near aggressive enough.  Got a Dremel
tool
 for Christmas and was hoping some sort of compound would work with that to do
 the job. TIA.
 Scott
 71 442 Conv. >>


      Scott, you MAY try toothpaste, water and cotton balls. It actually works
to remove minor scratches on CD's...if the lenses aren't too tough, it might
just work. I don't know about brasso and silver polish..they work good on
glass, but I'm not sure if the ammonia in the Brasso would be bad for that
plastic.  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 20:31:59 EST
From: DKlauber@aol.com
Subject: ebay redline Olds 442 ?

Can someone help me understand item #56959341 and why it is at $810.00 and the
reserve is not yet met??  Yes, I am talking about a "Hotwheels" car for that
much money!  I guess it's like coins or stamps and very rare, but could
someone please let me know what Redline is and why it is so valuable.  Thanks
David
70 442 W-30 Conv.  OCA #30416

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 20:38:59 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Plastic Gauge Lenses -- How to Polish

In a message dated 1/20/99 6:49:15 PM Central Standard Time,
CPEARLPARK@aol.com writes:

<< Any tips on products or methods to use to remove scratches..?  These things
 cost way too much (for what they are) to replace.  Bought some Meguire's #10
 something or other and it's nowhere near aggressive enough.  Got a Dremel
tool
 for Christmas and was hoping some sort of compound would work with that to do
 the job. TIA.
 Scott
 71 442 Conv.
  >>


   The prefered method is to go to a "glass & mirror" place and buy a
plexiglass (acrylic) polishing stick. Using a polishing pad (cotton...loose
ended) on a bench grinder, apply the polish to the pad by pushing the stick
against the pad. Gently and quickly place the surface of the lense to the
wheel, being careful not to allow contact to last more than a second or two(
to prevent "burning" the lense). The key here is patients!!!! The cool thing
about this is it will work very effectively on tail light and marker light
lenses as well.

Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 Cutlass 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 20:42:50 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: ebay redline Olds 442 ?

I am guessing that redline is the early hotwheels with redline tires. Hot Rod
Harry <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">1973 Olds Cutlass
455 4speed</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2099 20:53:54 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Wire Hubcaps

- -----Original Message-----
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>


>I missed the first posting of this, but if you're looking to find a good
cleaner
>for spoke wheels or hubcaps, the ~bestest~ thing I've ~ever~ used was some
>strain of hydrochloric acid.  Put ya in a hospital if you use it in a small
>garage without ventilation or breathing filters, but the stuff kicks ass!

Muriatic acid is the commercial name for HCl. A dilute form of it is used
for cleaning brick walls and masonry, available at home centers. Pure HCl
will take your skin off.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 20:51:56 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: HEI Question and comment (not trying to run this in the ground...but)

   Hey Olds folks, I just joined the bandwagon for HEI's. I went to a salvage
yard today and bought an HEI (vacuum adv., non computerized), back-up lights
(complete), liscense plate light (complete), 16 T3 headlights (8 "1"'s and 8
"2"'s), front winsheild reveal molding, a "Modern Olds of Dallas" dealer
emblem ( has a verycool rocket on it!!!!!)and several odds and ends ("pocket
parts", you know ...the ones you don't pay for...hahahaha). The total bill was
$35. Anyway, my comment on the HEI was, I've heard that the base timing is
different for HEI's.I planned on this by "pocketing" a late model HEI timing
tab...the one that reads from 0 to 18 BTDC. Is this item neccesary? 

Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 22:02:08 EST
From: Jerome L LaPointe <jlapointe1@juno.com>
Subject: Re: 88 Cutlass GT (long)

Speaking of the different versions of the Cutlass, I remember one in the
mid-eighties called the Southern Gold.  I think it was only available in
Alabama, Georgia, Florida and Mississippi.  From the commercials I saw,
it looked like a brougham with some extra fancy pinstripes.  Who knows
what other options it had.  Anyone ever hear or see such a version?  It
had a "Southern Gold" pinstripe-type decal on the back of the trunk to
identify it.

Jerome LaPointe
Montgomery, AL
84 Cutlass Calais Coupe Produced by Oldsmobile (C3PO)

If you don't have a car alarm for your Cutlass, you need to get one!  I
am a victim of a Cutlass Theft!


On Sun, 17 Jan 1999 20:23:01 -0500 "Bill Reilly" <wjreilly@erols.com>
writes:
>Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List - http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/
>
>----Original Message-----
>From: Joe Centanni <jacentan@crown.icongrp.com>
>To: olds_gbody@listbot.com <olds_gbody@listbot.com>
>Date: Wednesday, January 06, 1999 11:59 PM
>Subject: 88 Cutlass GT
>
>>Anyone here w/ an 88 Cutlass GT?.......I"ve only seen one personally 
>and
>>another for sale how about a little background on them....
>>All I know is that they are Y motor w/ the H/O effects kit and the 
>one I
>>saw was white w/ a red stripe(solid) over a tan/cream and said one of 
>I
>>cant remember how many?....any one w/ info?
>> Terminally bored
>> Jeremy 87 442

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 21:48:38 -0000
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Incompetent parts stores (81 Cutlass)

>The Big A in Doylestown, PA claim that there is no such engine as a >403.
I must be thinking of a 400.  yep. Who wants to go to Big-A, Bi->Ga, Be Gay
anyway?


Ha......musta been the same jerk that used to work where I get parts. (Not a
Big A)  Dude told me I couldn't get a water pump for a '72 350.
Olds only made 455's in '72.

 Sorry MY mistake.........did they make one in 1971? Sure enough.....well
whata ya know!

Mule faced little jerk!

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 01:05:47 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Edelbrock Numbers

I was just looking through the Edelbrock home-page and looked at some Dyno
tests.  I would have to say that I am rather disappointed and confused.  The
455 Dyno pull is not that great.  Making no more then 440 ft-lb and dipping
well into the 300s is not what I expected.  Compare it to the SB Chevy and
it is disappointing.  Also, MOPAR 440 numbers sucks as well.  I have seen a
few MILD 440s and they haul ass as do most 455s.  Is Edelbrock stuff just
not good for olds or what.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1726
*********************************

