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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1725


oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, January 20 1999     Volume 01 : Number 1725



Re: Private party buying over the net
Re: Yellow Top  (was: no subject)
Re: Private party buying over the net
Re: close enough to spring
Totally Non Olds
Re: Private party buying over the net
Re: Private party buying over the net
FS: More New Stuff
Re: 68 W30 questions
Re: Private party buying over the net
Re: Private party buying over the net
Re: 68 W30 questions
Looking for '68 4-bbl vacuum break
Re: Olds Career Planning - Wyoming Tech
Re: Totally Non Olds
Re: '71 Olds ID
Re: Private party buying over the net
Re: 68 W30 questions (last word)
Re: Totally Non Olds
30th Anniversary Cutlass F/S
Re: Need info on 1970 Radio Delete
Re: Parting out/selling 1970 OLDs 98 4 door sedan.
Re: test, ignore, unless your really bored ;)
Your Y2K report is done. Over 1,800 pages. A Must Read !
Re: Private party buying over the net
Re: F-41/sway bars
Re: FS: More New Stuff
Re: Private party buying over the net
Your Y2K report is done. Over 1,800 pages. A Must Read !
Re: Wire Hubcaps
71 442 W-30
Looking for 68-72 442 4spd car
Fwd: Wire Hubcaps
Resistor Wire terminal; hot in run *and* start?
For Sale: 71 442
grills needed
Mailing List
Re: Resistor Wire terminal; hot in run *and* start?
Re: Wire Hubcaps
Re: grills needed
Re: grills needed
Re: grills needed
Re: grills needed
81 Cutlass
Re: 81 Cutlass
Re: GET ME OFF THIS LIST!
Hydraulic Clutch Info
Re: 81 Cutlass
Re: 81 Cutlass
Re: test, ignore, unless your really bored ;)
PARTS WANTED (fwd)
'63 Olds Parts
Re: 81 Cutlass
Re: Wire Hubcaps
Re: Olds Career Planning - Wyoming Tech

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 18:39:48 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Private party buying over the net

In a message dated 1/19/99 4:30:53 PM Central Standard Time,
rockman20@yahoo.com writes:

<< 
 I have a question for anyone who has ever bought parts from a private
 party over the net. What's the best way to go about it? How can I make
 sure that I don't get screwed? I have a guy who e-mailed me saying
 that he has a few things I could use. It sounds good, I just want to
 cover all the bases since I don't know him.
 
 Thanks,
 Del
  >>


   I always ask the seller to send the item By U.P.S.. Also ask them to
purchase insurance. Oh...I almost forgot the most important part...C.O.D..
Tell the seller that you will pay the $8 or so that C.O.D. adds to the
shipping costs. On a final note, visually open and inspect the items before
paying the U.P.S. driver. 

Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 18:40:58 EST
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: Yellow Top  (was: no subject)

I think Bill Hirsch (the paint guy) is now doing tops and I remember noticing
some unusual colors/fabrics. Check hemmings for an ad...

Scott
71 4-4-2 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 18:53:37 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Private party buying over the net

> List,
> 
> I have a question for anyone who has ever bought parts from a private
> party over the net. What's the best way to go about it? How can I make
> sure that I don't get screwed? I have a guy who e-mailed me saying
> that he has a few things I could use. It sounds good, I just want to
> cover all the bases since I don't know him.
> 
> Thanks,
> Del
> 
>
Del

I  have been selling and buying on this list and from 442.com for the past
year and I have to say that the experience has been excellent.  Never a
problem, never a worry.

Just my experience

Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454




- ----------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 15:44:09 -0800 (PST)
From: Pat Hadwin <frogs442@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: close enough to spring

Brian,
A tip from a female... Sounds as if you have cleaned everything pretty
well. But if you have a stale odor or just want to freshen it up a
bit, there is a product on the market by the name of ~Febreeze~ it
will take any kind of odor out. We have 2 cats and a dog, they all
like to lie around on the furniture...so I just spray with the
Febreeze and it takes ~ALL~ odor out. Works great on cigarette odor
too. Just spray on let it dry and you are good to go.
And as far as cleaning the seats, if they are cloth, I just take soap
and water to them, or you can use the commercial carpet cleaners on
them. Just remember to let them dry good or you will end up with a wet
butt.
Pat




- ---Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com> wrote:
>
> Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List - http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/
> I was able to get off work
> just in time to make it home and clean the Cutlass.  Took all the
seats
> out and cleaned the carpet and those horrible places between the seats
> that get so dirty.  Took the third brake light and the rearview mirror
> out and cleaned the windows.  Most wonderful day, the car smells so
> good.  What are some of the things you guys use to clean the
interior of
> oyur beloved autos?  I am always looking for something better and if I
> can get a good smell AND a really clean car, then life is REALLY good.
> Brian.
> 
> 
> ______________________________________________________________________

> To unsubscribe, write to olds_gbody-unsubscribe@listbot.com
> Start Your Own FREE Email List at http://www.listbot.com/
> 

==
Pat Hadwin                 ICQ# 17397242   
http://members.tripod.com/~FrogsRus
http://members.tripod.com/~FrogsRus/MyOlds
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
John mailto:super442@yahoo.com     ICQ#16956740
http://www.442.com/mcjunkin.html

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 17:56:36 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Totally Non Olds

To all:
Pick Up bed liner, want to replace liner on Sonoma I recently acquired,
does anyone know the best to buy? People keep telling me to get one that
doesn't rub on the bottom of the bed. They say it can cause damage to the
metal bottom. I know nothing about bed liners, any hints? Send PM. Won't
clutter the site, TIA.
Master Lou
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 18:04:29 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Private party buying over the net

Del:
Sent a guy a check for a used left grille for the 75, that was 4 months
ago, haven't heard a word since!  At least he hasn't cashed the check yet.
Maybe I'm too impatient. Checking acct a b*tch to balance though, always
have too much money, thats a switch, huh?
Master Lou
lbiggs@intertek.net


> > List,
> > 
> > I have a question for anyone who has ever bought parts from a private
> > party over the net. What's the best way to go about it? How can I make
> > sure that I don't get screwed? I have a guy who e-mailed me saying
> > that he has a few things I could use. It sounds good, I just want to
> > cover all the bases since I don't know him.
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > Del

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 19:06:52 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Private party buying over the net

Del and all,

        I have to agree strongly with Mr. Bob. We have not had a bad experience
with anyone from the list or Bryce's page. The insurance is a very good idea
along with having it send COD. That way you can check what your getting. If the
UPS driver says you can't open it until you pay for it that's a bunch of bunk.
We ship every day and have only had some problems during the Holidays. 2 orders
were completely destroyed. That's where the insurance comes in. They cover up
to $100.00. After that you need to add insurance for the cost. 

My .02 cents

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 19:07:33 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: FS: More New Stuff

Hello everyone, 

	Here's a few items that have just arrived.

65 442/Cutlass RH Rear Qtr Molding (nice, 2 tiny pits)  $45.00
66 442 W-30 1/25th scale Ertl Models  $11.00 ea
67 442 W-30 1/25th scale Lindberg Models  $10.00 ea
66 442 Tail Light Assm (fair to good, with lens)  $110.00 pr
66 LH/RH Outside Mirror (good driver) $15.00
66 442/F-85 Steering Wheel (cheapy 2 spoke, very nice, blue)  $200.00
66-67 Chrome Dash Insert (excellent driver, w/ gauge bezel) $100.00
66-67 Gauge Bezel (mint, 2 spd auto)  $20.00
67 442/Cutlass Supreme Rear Qtr Moldings (no pits, decent chrome) $90.00 pr
67 442 Hood (mint) $500.00
67 Hood Molding (nice)  $75.00
68-72 400/455 Notched Valve Covers (1 small ding)  $45.00 pr 
70-72 Rally Pacs (nice complete setups)  $525.00 ea
73 Cutlass Supreme Taillight Lens (mint)  $45.00 pr
73 Cutlass/442/Hurst Backup Light Assm (nice) $12.00
75-79 Dog Dish Hubcaps (N.O.S.)  $50.00 set of 4
83-88 Console Shift Indicator (nice)  $8.00
85-87 442 Door Panel Emblem (pin repaired, very nice) $18.00
87 442 Dash Inserts (gray, nice)  $50.00 set


Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts
(757)474-0869
 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 19:06:19 -0500
From: "Michael Davis" <mdavis@metrobankandtrust.com>
Subject: Re: 68 W30 questions

In response to your question #1..in 68' front disc brakes were available on
442 with automatic.  My car still has them.  They were recalled in 1973 and
most returned them.  The front disc brakes in 68' had flaws that they would
leak and over heat.
They can be restored and kept in good shape if redone with the aluminum
sleeves and use dot7 brake fluid.  They are designed like the corvette disc
brakes that have the four piston calipors that float.  Until I was helped
with this problem, I had to repair them twice at a cost of nearly a grand
each time. 

						Mike Davis
						68' 442

- ----------
> From: GTOFan@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 68 W30 questions
> Date: Monday, January 18, 1999 12:11 PM
> 
> )  According to info in some books I have all 68 W30's with 4speeds had
Disc
> brakes but manual not power.  I understand it was an option with an
automatic?
> Can some one verify that?  The car I am looking at has drums all the way
> around and even looks like power brakes.  Can't understand why anyone
would
> change from discs to drums?
> 
> 2) Is there any difference in the engine/block (in 68) of a standard 442
and
> a W30? I believe the heads are different and the OAI or forced air
intakes?  I
> understand they are supposed to have heads with a "D" on them.  Is the
rest of
> the engine any different?  
> 
> Any other little items that wold help insure a W30 car would be greatly
> appreciated!  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 19:01:24 EST
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Re: Private party buying over the net

Del with my experience it has been call the buyer and talk with them and go
for the gut feeling, been buying and selling them from the list and Internet
for 3 years now and have not had a problem on either end, just my 2 cents
Chris

CHRIS SOMMERVILLE
69 442SC
84 H/O

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 18:32:04 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Private party buying over the net

TO ALL:
The person in question is NOT on this list, I have purchased from Greg @
Supercars, E & G, and some others. I would have NO qualms in sending Jim
and Joanne a BLANK check for parts needed. No reflection intended guys &
gals, this was only one instance and as I said, "He is not a list member,
that I know of". He is a private person that was referred to me by the
list, actually, he called me first, hopefully he may still come though.
Master Lou
lbiggs@intertek.net
 

- ----------
> From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Private party buying over the net
(snip)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 16:26:38 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: 68 W30 questions

GraphixRUs@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I think the  "standard "  ratio was 3.91.  4.33 & 4.66 were dealer installed
> richmond units.
> Some one please verify.
> Roger



The 1968 W-30 rear end ratios can be somewhat confusing
because of conflicting information listed in factory 
literature.  Hopefully the following will help.
I have seen the reference to the 4 speed cars as being
standard with 4.33's.  However, that listing (often) 
contradicts itself with a footnote stating that the
4.33 was a dealer installed option.  (Which would
imply that the cars with the standard ratio were 
shipped to the dealers less ring and pinion!)

The option sheet for 1968 W-30's is a bit more
clear.  It states 3.42, 3.91 and 4.33 were no 
cost factory options with either the M21 or TH400.  
(Of which only the 4.33 required the Anti-Spin 
option).  Since the order form states no ratio 
as standard per se, one could conclude it was 
up to the buyer to specify which ratio was
"standard".    

Factory installed ratio codes (stamping on 
axle tube) are as follows:

3.42 (open) TL
3.42 (Anti-Spin) TM
3.91 (open) TN
3.91 (Anti-Spin) TO
4.33 (Anti-Spin) TW
(4.66 was dealer installed only.  
Therefore no specific code). 

Note:  These codes were also used on 
standard 1968 4-4-2's without power
brakes.  Unlike the 1970-1972 cars
which had W-30 specific codes.  

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland Oregon  503-244-8249

Web site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 20:48:42 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Looking for '68 4-bbl vacuum break

I am looking to replace the vacuum break/choke pull-off on my '68, carb
#7028250. Fusick's couldn't supply one when I was there last year, and I
got the impression they were hard to find. Anyone here have a new one or
know where I can get one? I admit, I haven't looked very hard; they may be
still available from GM for all I know... thanks in advance!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 19:48:08 EST
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds Career Planning - Wyoming Tech

Don't know anything about Wyoming Tech, but from my brief experience so far,
we could use many more good resto people, at least in New England.  I can't
even get them to return phone calls.  They all seem totally backed up with
guys who leave them a blank check for 6 weeks worth of resto work, and they're
booked with ~years~ worth of backlog.  And there are certainly no signs of
slowing activity in this industry.  Many people I know are snatching up
classics, muscles, and special interests as fast as they hit the paper, the
net or the car sale books.  It's unbelievable.  Were I younger, it would be my
choice for a career whose self-satisfaction content would be hard to beat.
Encourage the kid--seems like a very honorable, satisfying, fun, and
potentially lucrative path...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 20:06:29 EST
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: Totally Non Olds

Lou,  Check out the "spray-in" stuff.  I wish I had gotten it.  A friend chose
it over the usual plastic liner and it's great.  'Tough as hell and won't
damage the steel.  Also, won't let stuff slide around back there, or get dirt
and mulch and stuff between it and the steel. You can remove it later with a
special solvent if you need to.  About the same or cheaper than a drop-in
liner....

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 20:12:19 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: '71 Olds ID

A correction to my post on the 455 availability in the A-body cars in 71.
Mike Rothe was correct, the L32 4bbl 455 was only available in the Supreme
with the "...'SX' Performance Package (Y79) for Coupe and Convertible",
according to the "Specifications" chart in the dealer literature.  The only
other A-body 455 applications in 71 were the 442 (standard or W-30) and the
Vista Cruiser (L30 2bbl motor or L32 4bbl motor).  The largest engine
available in the F-85, Cutlass, or Cutlass S in 1971 was the 350.  Note
that this is different from 1970, when the L33 320 HP 455 _was_ available
in the Cutlass, Cutlass S, and F-85.  Also, in 1972, the L75 455 4bbl was
listed as available on the Cutlass, Cutlass S, and Supreme (this time
without the SX package).  Since the 442 was demoted to an option package
that year (option code W29), the W-30 motor was also available on those
cars, but in that case the W29 442 package was mandatory; this is not the
case for the L75 455.

The bottom line is that it appears that only in 1971 was the 455 not
factory available on the Cutlass or Cutlass S models.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 20:08:18 -0800
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Private party buying over the net

- -----Original Message-----
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>

>List,
>
>I have a question for anyone who has ever bought parts from a private
>party over the net. What's the best way to go about it? How can I make
>sure that I don't get screwed? I have a guy who e-mailed me saying
>that he has a few things I could use. It sounds good, I just want to
>cover all the bases since I don't know him.
>
>Thanks,
>Del
>
Del, I have bought from list members, conducting the entire sale over the
net.  My experiences have run from flawless and gratifying to frustrating
and cheated.  I don't know that there is any sure way to guard against the
hose monster.  On the whole, I am on the plus side.  Fortunately, I am a
gentle and trusting individual whose delicate feelings are infrequently
trampled upon.  My general rule revolves around impressions taken from the
seller's posts.  Good luck.  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 19:52:13 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 68 W30 questions (last word)

OK, gang, now that I've had the chance to review my reference material here
at home, here's what I've found on the Great 68 W-30 Axle Ratio Mystery.
WARNING:  The following could rival the Great Transmission Pipe Clip
debate...

First, in the factory ordering sheet, under the W-30 option listing, it
says the following:  "...G88, G89, or G92 required at extra cost.  G80
required with G89..."  For those of you not up on your option codes, G88
was the 3.91 Heavy Duty Performance Rear, G89 the 4.33 Heavy Duty
Performance Rear, and G92 the 3.42 Heavy Duty Performance Rear.  G80 was
the Anti Spin Rear Axle.   OK, so the 3.42 axle _was_ available on the
W-30, and posi, er, Anti Spin, was _not_ mandatory on that axle.

Next, on the "Specifications... Axle Ratios, Tires" sheet, the 4.33 axle is
listed as "Std." for the W-30 with the M21 close ratio trans, with 3.42 and
3.92 optional.  The 3.42 axle is listed as "Std." for the W-30 with the M40
TH400 trans, with 3.91 and 4.33 optional.  Here's where it gets
interesting, however.  Each of these axle ratios has a series of footnotes.
All carry footnote "a", which denotes the Heavy Duty Performance Rear Axle
Package, and footnote "b", which notes that the ratio is N.A. with Air
Conditioner.  The 4.33 ratio further carries footnote "d", which notes Anti
Spin Rear Axle (G80) required.  There is also a footnote "e", which
indicates Dealer-installed special performance axle.  This footnote "e" is
applied to all 4.33 applications _except_ the W-30 MT!  Now, in fairness,
there is a smudge which might be the letter "e" in that box, but
interestingly, only in the W-30 application does the 4.33 carry the factory
option designation of G89 - all the other applications (such as non-W 442s
and lesser Cutlii) the box simply carries the "b" and "e" footnotes without
the G89 designation.  Note that this is the way the 4.66 ratio is listed in
_all_ applications (W-30 included) - there's no factory option code for the
4.66 at all.

OK, one more bit of data.  In the 1968 Chassis Service Manual, in Fig 0-14,
Differential Usage Codes, the row labeled "3100 THRU 4400 (TYPE "O")" lists
axle ratios and appropriate codes for all ratios through 3.91.  A separate
row labeled only "400 CU. IN." lists only the 4.33 ratio and it's
associated axle codes (TW and TY).  Note that the dealer-installed 4.66
does not show up on this table at all.  In fact, if you think about it, if
the axle ratio were dealer installed, the workers on the rear axle assembly
line would likely not know that any particular axle was going to get a
dealer-installed gearset.  I would assume that they would simply stamp the
axle code of the gearset that _was_ factory-installed.  If the 4.33 was, in
fact, only dealer-installed, I would expect it not to have a factory code
(like the 4.66).

In summary (for those who are still awake through all this anal minutiae),
the 3.42 was standard in AT W-30s in 68 and posi was not mandatory.  The
4.33 with posi was standard in MT W-30s in 68 and I submit that it was
factory installed in the W-30 application only.  I'd certainly appreciate
any other data one way or the other one this, though my only other data
point is my personal 68 W-30, which does have the 4.33 posi.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 19:20:18 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Totally Non Olds

Thanks, 
You are the 3rd person that told me that, going to do that. thanks again.
Lou

- ----------
> From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Totally Non Olds
> Date: Tuesday, January 19, 1999 7:06 PM
> 
> Lou,  Check out the "spray-in" stuff.  I wish I had gotten it.  A friend
chose
> it over the usual plastic liner and it's great.  'Tough as hell and won't
> damage the steel.  Also, won't let stuff slide around back there, or get
dirt
> and mulch and stuff between it and the steel. You can remove it later
with a
> special solvent if you need to.  About the same or cheaper than a drop-in
> liner....

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 20:14:23 -0500
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: 30th Anniversary Cutlass F/S

Stopped by the Olds dealer tonight and noticed a car with an unusual
badge on the fender.  I went to look at it and it was a "30th
Anniversary Special Edition" Cutlass Supreme SL.  The car is black with
gold stripes.  Interesting part is the car is a 1997!  Now I know when I
was growing up 1964 plus 30 equaled 1994 not 1997.  This doesn't even
fit with the Cutlass Supreme, because that was first offered in 1966.

BTW, if anyone is interested they're asking $12,000.

- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
95 Aurora 
OCA# 30442

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 20:30:08 -0500
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Need info on 1970 Radio Delete

Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:
> 
> Frankly, I've never seen a radio delete on the 70-72 cars
> - was this even an option?  Does anyone have a parts book that covers the
> 70-72 cars to check to see if one was even available?  My parts book only
> goes up to 69.

The best I can do is state that the literature I have lists every radio
as an option, therefore, there must (should?) have been a radio delete
plate.

- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
95 Aurora 
OCA# 30442

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 17:52:58 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Parting out/selling 1970 OLDs 98 4 door sedan.

Where is the car located?  I might be interested in the engine.


>
>   Hello
>
>  I'm selling a 70' 98 4 door. The car was purchased for the
>clip and
>wheel skirts. Other than those items the car is complete.
>The engine
>is a 455 with 88K miles. The front seat is worn other than
>that the
>interior is clean. Color is brown/brown. The engine runs
>strong and
>can be demonstrated. Let me know your needs and I will
>respond
>promptly.
>
>PS
>Car also comes with a clip from a 69' 98
>
>JK
>
>
>
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 20:53:00 -0500
From: "C Thomas" <cthomas@stny.lrun.com>
Subject: Re: test, ignore, unless your really bored ;)

Its working. Yes Im really bored
Later
Chad Thomas
www.442.com/cthomas.html 
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gutlass66@aol.com <Gutlass66@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, January 19, 1999 12:21 PM
Subject: test, ignore, unless your really bored ;)


>thanks, just testing

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 02:19:55
From: <srie3829@yahoo.com>
Subject: Your Y2K report is done. Over 1,800 pages. A Must Read !

***** P R E S S     R E L E A S E *****

***** FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE *****

Finally, the long awaited for and most comprehensive
report written to date regarding Y2K and it's very 
real and potentially devastating results is now 
available for viewing online.

Compiled from several years of intensive research, 
THIS IS A MUST READ for Media Executives, Reporters, 
National and State Governments, Foreign Governments, 
Business Owners, Business Executives, and Corporate 
Stockholders and Individuals.

This intense report divulges information that should 
NOT be missed by anyone.  From the wealthy to the 
Blue Collar Worker.  Everyone should make time to 
read this extremely important report.  

Read from it's 1,800 plus pages and you too will 
see how Extremely Important this report is to the 
survivability of Governments, Businesses and 
Individuals.

To gain access to this Valuable Information, 
call USA/Canada (800) 771-2003 or outside 
USA/Canada, call (916) 771-4739.



 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 21:04:34 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Private party buying over the net

Be very careful, I just got royally screwed for $725 from a guy who answered
my ad on 442.com. If this guy contacts you to sell you parts, DON'T DO IT:
Ripoff Artist:  Kisskreak@prodigy.net , name: Stefan Defimone, 8 Park Plaza,
Boston, Mass. Phone: 617-331-0655.
He won't return my calls (has an answering machine), and he won't answer my
e-mails. If anyone on the list runs into this guy smack him in the head for
me. He took my money and didn't send me my parts. I've been waiting over a
month now. Just a word of warning.

- -----Original Message-----

>
>List,
>
>I have a question for anyone who has ever bought parts from a private
>party over the net. What's the best way to go about it? How can I make
>sure that I don't get screwed? I have a guy who e-mailed me saying
>that he has a few things I could use. It sounds good, I just want to
>cover all the bases since I don't know him.
>
>Thanks,
>Del
>
>
>
>
>==
>Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
>rockman20@yahoo.com
>1986 Honda Accord DX
>1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
>1981 John Deer Snowmobile
>197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
>1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
>_________________________________________________________
>DO YOU YAHOO!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 21:22:28 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: F-41/sway bars

In a message dated 1/19/99 2:23:10 PM Pacific Standard Time, Thomas_Martin-
WLTM07@css.mot.com writes:

<< Monte SS/442/GN, look for "YA" on the round part of the steering box
 housing.  Often hard to see, or even missing after years of grime.
 
 Thomas Mar >>

      I assume since you say it could be missing, this is a sticker? Anyone
got a Hollanders that covers post '79 that lists the part/casting number?
Really interested to know if my car has this in it..but I guess the cover
shape SHOULD tell me what it is.  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 21:24:37 EST
From: WBrad442@aol.com
Subject: Re: FS: More New Stuff

i own a 65 442 
body is almost cherry
interior rough
worked 72 455 underhood
muncie 4 spd
oe floor tach with console
might want to sell
arizona   any one looking?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 21:38:27 EST
From: OLDS44272@aol.com
Subject: Re: Private party buying over the net

In a message dated 1/19/99 5:30:53 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rockman20@yahoo.com writes:

<< List,
 
 I have a question for anyone who has ever bought parts from a private
 party over the net. What's the best way to go about it? How can I make
 sure that I don't get screwed? I have a guy who e-mailed me saying
 that he has a few things I could use. It sounds good, I just want to
 cover all the bases since I don't know him.
 
 Thanks, >
        Well, i have bought a few things from the e-bay site. On that site,
you can check feed back on the seller. But it is still kinda a chance thing.
You can ask the guy with the parts for a reference, like who else has he sold
parts. You can get even slicker by asking for his home or work number. This
way especially if you get his work number, you can ask who ever answer the
phone if this guy is ok/cool. But it is still a chance. You could ask for a e-
mail picture of the parts to be sure they are what you want. Also, find out if
shipping is included or if it is extra....
......SCOTT

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 03:11:44
From: <srie3829@yahoo.com>
Subject: Your Y2K report is done. Over 1,800 pages. A Must Read !

***** P R E S S     R E L E A S E *****

***** FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE *****

Finally, the long awaited for and most comprehensive
report written to date regarding Y2K and it's very 
real and potentially devastating results is now 
available for viewing online.

Compiled from several years of intensive research, 
THIS IS A MUST READ for Media Executives, Reporters, 
National and State Governments, Foreign Governments, 
Business Owners, Business Executives, and Corporate 
Stockholders and Individuals.

This intense report divulges information that should 
NOT be missed by anyone.  From the wealthy to the 
Blue Collar Worker.  Everyone should make time to 
read this extremely important report.  

Read from it's 1,800 plus pages and you too will 
see how Extremely Important this report is to the 
survivability of Governments, Businesses and 
Individuals.

To gain access to this Valuable Information, 
call USA/Canada (800) 771-2003 or outside 
USA/Canada, call (916) 771-4739.



 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 21:44:35 EST
From: OLDS44272@aol.com
Subject: Re: Wire Hubcaps

                I have had good using a product called Simple Green. You can
get buy it at Wal-mart or any other chain store. I have used it to clean my
motorcycle, and degrease my car engine. The only problem with Simple Green is
that it tends to leave a light white film on any thing black, at least it does
with the motorcycle rims. Another product you could try is Bike Brite. Has the
same or better cleaning power, without the white film...........Scott

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 21:44:07 EST
From: Lou0118@aol.com
Subject: 71 442 W-30

There is a 71 442 W-30 in Hemmings for $12,500.  It?s the one in New Jersey.
If anyone is interested let me know.  I know the guy who?s selling it.  He is
a dealer who?s only about 15 minutes from my house.  I?ve seen some of the
others cars he has had for sale and they all were nice clean cars.  In fact he
called me about this one right after I had gotten my 69 442 W-30.

Mmm, maybe I should look at this one.  No, I think the wife would kill me if I
got another one so soon.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30
lou0118@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 21:47:28 EST
From: TheBlue67@aol.com
Subject: Looking for 68-72 442 4spd car

hello list members, my dad is now looking for a 68-72 4-speed car. does not
matter if it is a W car or a rallye. a cutlass or 442 is fine. he would really
like to find a 4-speed post sedan though. so if anyone on the list knows of
such a beast let me know. condition should be descent and price is not a big
deal. he would like to trade his 71 442 up in price or down in price for the
car. so let me know.

Thanks
Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible
TheBlue67@Aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 21:46:16 EST
From: OLDS44272@aol.com
Subject: Fwd: Wire Hubcaps

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- --part0_916800377_boundary
Content-ID: <0_916800377@inet_out.mail.aol.com.1>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

In a message dated 1/19/99 5:56:01 PM Eastern Standard Time, cshankle@home.com
writes:

<< This may apply more to the G Body folks than anyone else, but all
 replies are welcomed, of course.
 
 Has anyone had any luck cleaning their Cutlass wire wheel covers?  After
 all the filthy horrible snow and road salt lately my hubcaps are looking
 pretty horrid.  I can see that if I take them off I can clean the inside
 ring somewhat, and the outside poses little problem, but there is that
 piece in the middle between the two sets of spokes--and the inside
 spokes themselves--that I just can't seem to get to.  I tried spraying
 them with Castrol Super Clean, which took the oil off my motor but
 couldn't take the dirt off my hubcaps.  I would shy away from
 dismantling them because I got lucky and didn't get noisy ones, but if
 that is what it takes and they are noisy afterwards, I can just turn up
 the radio.  That's more fun anyway.
 Brian.
  >>
I have had good using a product called Simple Green. You can get buy it at
Wal-mart or any other chain store. I have used it to clean my motorcycle, and
degrease my car engine. The only problem with Simple Green is that it tends to
leave a light white film on any thing black, at least it does with the
motorcycle rims. Another product you could try is Bike Brite. Has the same or
better cleaning power, without the white film...........Scott

- --part0_916800377_boundary
Content-ID: <0_916800377@inet_out.mail.home.com.2>
Content-type: message/rfc822
Content-transfer-encoding: 7bit
Content-disposition: inline

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Message-ID: <36A3BB30.818BE408@home.com>
Date: 	Mon, 18 Jan 1999 17:52:32 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Organization: @Home Network
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Subject: Wire Hubcaps
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This may apply more to the G Body folks than anyone else, but all
replies are welcomed, of course.

Has anyone had any luck cleaning their Cutlass wire wheel covers?  After
all the filthy horrible snow and road salt lately my hubcaps are looking
pretty horrid.  I can see that if I take them off I can clean the inside
ring somewhat, and the outside poses little problem, but there is that
piece in the middle between the two sets of spokes--and the inside
spokes themselves--that I just can't seem to get to.  I tried spraying
them with Castrol Super Clean, which took the oil off my motor but
couldn't take the dirt off my hubcaps.  I would shy away from
dismantling them because I got lucky and didn't get noisy ones, but if
that is what it takes and they are noisy afterwards, I can just turn up
the radio.  That's more fun anyway.
Brian.

- --part0_916800377_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 13:29:27 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Resistor Wire terminal; hot in run *and* start?

I'm gathering up the pieces for my points-to-HEI conversion in my SX (only
need the cap, coil and wires), and I have a question about the wiring for
the deal.

I planned on unplugging the original resistor wire from the junction box on
the firewall, and replacing it with the factory wire from a later
HEI-equipped car, for a clean, factory, unbutchered look. 

My only question is whether the terminal that the resistor wire connects to
gets (+) voltage in the "start" as well as in the "run" position. In other
words, does the coil get voltage from the "S" wire only, or from the "S"
and the resistor wire, when you are cranking the starter? 

If not, I'll have to retain the wire from the "S" terminal on the starter
as well, which won't be as clean as I'd like.

Bob Barry
'70 SX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 22:01:48 EST
From: TheBlue67@aol.com
Subject: For Sale: 71 442

1971 442 for sale. hardtop, auto with consle. white buckets in descent shape,
blue exterior. very little rust, real solid body. car has 58,000 original
miles on a blown 455. Th-400, discs, posi, no a/c. very solid car over all,
with a fresh motor this would be a $8000 as it sit. Asking $3500 OBO or trade
up or down in value and condition for 68-72 4-speed car. Email me privately if
interested .... TheBlue67@Aol.Com. the car is in cleveland ohio.

Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 22:07:58 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: grills needed

I need '75 Supreme right grill or a set of '75 Salon grills.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 22:15:15 EST
From: PittDaddy@aol.com
Subject: Mailing List

Please place me on the Oldsmobile Mailing List.
Thanks,
Fred Segal

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 22:34:40 -0500
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Resistor Wire terminal; hot in run *and* start?

- ---- Original Message -----
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>

>My only question is whether the terminal that the resistor wire connects to
>gets (+) voltage in the "start" as well as in the "run" position. In other
>words, does the coil get voltage from the "S" wire only, or from the "S"
>and the resistor wire, when you are cranking the starter?

>Bob Barry
>'70 SX

Doc Bob,
There was an empty receptor in the fuse panel marked "IGN" on my 69. By
plugging into this, I was able to eliminate the wire from the starter. Just
a guess, but I would assume the resistor wire gets (+) voltage only in the
run position. If it got both, there probably wouldn't be a need for the "S"
wire on the starter.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie, Melbourne, FL
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 22:50:34 -0500
From: EJ <oldsluvr@bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Re: Wire Hubcaps

Brian Shankle wrote:

> Has anyone had any luck cleaning their Cutlass wire wheel covers?  After
> all the filthy horrible snow and road salt lately my hubcaps are looking
> pretty horrid.  I can see that if I take them off I can clean the inside
> ring somewhat, and the outside poses little problem, but there is that
> piece in the middle between the two sets of spokes--and the inside
> spokes themselves--that I just can't seem to get to.  I tried spraying
> them with Castrol Super Clean, which took the oil off my motor but
> couldn't take the dirt off my hubcaps.  I would shy away from
> dismantling them because I got lucky and didn't get noisy ones, but if
> that is what it takes and they are noisy afterwards, I can just turn up
> the radio.  That's more fun anyway.
> Brian.
> 
> 
______________________________________________________________________

I myself just picked up a set of used wires for my 85 Toro last week to
replace the non-original caps that i bought the car with. I went for the
"dismantle" they were filthy !. It's not that difficult, there will
probably be some 7mm bolts on the backside of the center cap. Once you
remove that you just need to pop the spokes out. DO ONLY 1 WHEEL COVER
AT A TIME , DO NOT DISMANTLE ALL 4 AT ONCE !. It might seem that it's a
no brainer putting the spokes back in, but believe me from experience
and a lot of 4-letter words, there is a certain "pattern" to it. So do
one at a time and as you put the one back together, have one of still
dirty ones to use as a guide. If you don't put the spokes back in
properly, the spokes wont lay flat enough to the center of the wheel
cover and you will never be able to push the center cap down tight/close
enough to thread the 7mm bolts back in from behind. 

If you choose not to dismantle, wheel acid cleaners work but are risky.
If you do choose to use them spray on, let sit a few and rinse, don't
scrub the cleaner into the wheel. Rinse first then scrub with plain soap
and water for stubborn, preferably with a sponge, not a hard bristle
brush you would use for tires, or interior cleaning. The finishes on
these wire wheel's that will really show age and wear is the chrome
plated center sections(the center cap, and the piece directly underneath
it). These are the most delicate parts that if scrubbed too hard, or you
use the wrong chemicals, and or too much of a chemical on, will look
like crap. You will start to dull the finish, because this can actually
start removing the chrome from the metal. The rest/remaining part of the
wheelcover generally holds up better to age and wear. 
 
Since mine were so grimy, the first thing i did was go over ever thing
very lightly/gently with steel wool. Watch that flat black painted area
close to the edge of the wheelcover, you don't wan't to be steel wooling
that at all. I then went over all of it(except the flat black) with Blue
Magic Metal Cleaner. 

Could'nt yet tell you about the "noise" yet. I'm in the process of
transfering tags/insurance from my Tr*ans Am. Everythings done but the
insurance, which hopefully i'll do tomorrow.


- -- 
"EJ"  In Hamilton Township, New Jersey, suburb of Trenton
On digest where availabile, not regular mail
E-Mail: oldsluvr@bellatlantic.net
                               The "Fleet"
1979 Pontiac "Olds organ donor" Trans Am T-tops Rebuilt Olds 6.6L 403 
     4bbl-TH350 Performer Cam and Intake.....going into the Calais
     For Sale. Click on the link below.....
http://www.1pontiac.com/cgi-bin/1pontiac-cgi/webbbs1-cgi/config.pl?read=3210
1984 Olds Cutlass Calais T-Tops 5.0L 307 4bbl-TH350-2.14 gears K+N.....
     soon to be 6.6L 403 4bbl, and hopefully some better "rear" gears
1985 Olds Toronado 5.0L 307 4bbl-AOD(newly acquired Sept. 98). 
1992 Lincoln Mark VII LSC Moonroof 5.0L 302 EFI HO-AOD-3.27 gears
     inner fender baffle removed-K+N.
1992 Ford F-250 Reg-Cab 4WD 7.5L 460 EFI-E4OD Auto-3.55 gears.
     3-inch converter-dual outlet flowmaster 3 chamber.
     Complete K+N(no more factory air-box)-ADS Super Chip-Spitfires-
     Accel Super Coil-Cap-Rotor & 8.8 wires.
1994 Toyota Camry Sedan 4-banger-(Wow we could have had a V6!)-"mili
     -liter"-AOD. K+N (why did I even bother, still a slug!) 
     My SO's rider

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 22:53:16 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: grills needed

Edward Binnix wrote:
> 
> I need '75 Supreme right grill or a set of '75 Salon grills.

How about a set of 'S' grills?

- -Matt Cremean

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 23:11:49 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: grills needed

Which ones are they? The Salon grills are chromed plastic with vertical and
horizontal bars. The Supreme grills are a flat silver/grey paint with mostly
vertical bars with some recessed. I don't know what the S grills look like.

- -----Original Message-----

>
>How about a set of 'S' grills?
>
>-Matt Cremean
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 23:15:03 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: grills needed

I just looked in my Haynes manual at a '75 'S' Colonade and the grills look
like the Supreme grills to me with all vertical bars.

- -----Original Message-----

>How about a set of 'S' grills?
>
>-Matt Cremean
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 23:21:14 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: grills needed

Edward Binnix wrote:
> 
> Which ones are they? The Salon grills are chromed plastic with vertical and
> horizontal bars. The Supreme grills are a flat silver/grey paint with mostly
> vertical bars with some recessed. I don't know what the S grills look like.
> 

They are chromed plastic with 7 vertical bars, I can't really say the
exact condition of them, but if you would like, I could always find out.
I think they may be perfectly intact, just a little weathered. Can they
be re-chromed? Let me know if you're interested.

> -----Original Message-----
> 
> >
> >How about a set of 'S' grills?
> >
> >-Matt Cremean
> >

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 22:29:31 -0000
From: "Tony & Jess Urwin" <tjboty@netins.net>
Subject: 81 Cutlass

Can anyone help me with this problem,  I have an 81 Olds and based on the
vin # its a Calais.  But whenever I go to get parts, the clerks always tell
me that the car is not a Calais.  Even though the vin # says that it is.  I
am told that Calais were not made in 81.  The trim and everything related
to the look of the car says Calais.  But I'm still told its not.  So do I
have a Calais or not?  The actual definition based on the Vin is Oldsmobile
Cutlass Calais 2 door Notchback Coupe. Its a K-Body car.  So if someone can
help me with this, I would really appreciate it.

Thanks,

Tony Urwin

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 23:55:47 EST
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 81 Cutlass

In a message dated 1/19/99 11:37:45 PM Eastern Standard Time,
tjboty@netins.net writes:

<< 
 Can anyone help me with this problem,  I have an 81 Olds and based on the
 vin # its a Calais.  But whenever I go to get parts, the clerks always tell
 me that the car is not a Calais.  Even though the vin # says that it is.  I
 am told that Calais were not made in 81.  The trim and everything related
 to the look of the car says Calais.  But I'm still told its not.  So do I
 have a Calais or not?  The actual definition based on the Vin is Oldsmobile
 Cutlass Calais 2 door Notchback Coupe. Its a K-Body car.  So if someone can
 help me with this, I would really appreciate it.
 
 Thanks,
 
 Tony Urwin >>
 I'm sure you probably have a Calais but in 81 as you stated is on the Cutlass
body which is a "G" body not a "K" body (GM never made a "K" body).In 1985
they started producing the "N" body the Calais ans Calais Supreme, a lot of
the guys is the parts department only know the latest "Calais" models, I think
is where the prblem is.

Everett   1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 21:11:08 -0800
From: Michael Hemp <histryco@redshift.com>
Subject: Re: GET ME OFF THIS LIST!

PLEASE REMOVE ME FROM THIS OLDS LIST IMMEDIATELY.

MICHAEL HEMP

Live aloha...

Michael

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 00:24:33 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Hydraulic Clutch Info

List,
This was supposed to go private, but the mailer-demon (that's what I call it)
refused it.  Sorry for taking up the bandwidth, but I know Gary wanted to know
this information.  Maybe someone else would like to know this,
too................


Gary,

The people I've dealt with are Coleman Machine [N-1597 US-41, Menominee, MI
49858 (906) 863-7883], they're online at:

http://www.shorttrack.com/coleman

You'll probably want to use an SFI rated bellhousing (stock ones are OK, but
no match for an exploding clutch) and McLeod sells one with both GM patterns
on it.  The pedal assembly could be adapted from a Coleman single pedal
assembly (they make several styles, one should be something you could use) and
one of their master cylinders, the line could be any steel braided line
capable of handling the pressure.

The actual release bearing (what they call it) is made by Tilton, and they are
listed for both race and street usage.

Once you get one of their catalogs (recommended!) you'll see they have a lot
to offer, and some of their other products might be just what you're looking
for.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 00:30:21 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: 81 Cutlass

Tony & Jess Urwin wrote:
> 
> Can anyone help me with this problem,  I have an 81 Olds and based on the
> vin # its a Calais.  But whenever I go to get parts, the clerks always tell
> me that the car is not a Calais.

It's a Calais.  the Calais was a sporty option package on the Cutlass
Surpeme until around 85.  Buckets, console, etc.  It should be a G body
though, or more specifically, a G-special.  I'm not terribly impressed
with most parts clerks.  I had a lengthy arguement with one once as to
whether my Vista Cruiser was a fullsize car....It's misize, I don't care
how big it is, fullsize parts don't fit it.  

I've tried asking for parts for my 80 Calais and I get the same line: 
They didn't make a Calais that year.  I just ask for Cutlass Supreme
parts now.  

> Even though the vin # says that it is.  I
> am told that Calais were not made in 81.  The trim and everything related
> to the look of the car says Calais.  But I'm still told its not.

There was a front wheel drive N-body olds called the calais.  They were
`85-up cars and the RWD calais was dropped after 84.

>  So do I
> have a Calais or not?  The actual definition based on the Vin is Oldsmobile
> Cutlass Calais 2 door Notchback Coupe. Its a K-Body car.

K body was a Caddy deville.  I don't think there was any Olds K-body. 

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 21:28:50 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 81 Cutlass

My sister had a Cutlass Calais.  I always thought it was strange. I had 
never seen a G-body  Calais before.  It was a highly optioned car.  It 
even had a power sunroof (couldn't get it to work though). It was a 81 
or 82, I can't remember at the moment.


>
>Can anyone help me with this problem,  I have an 81 Olds and based on 
the
>vin # its a Calais.  But whenever I go to get parts, the clerks always 
tell
>me that the car is not a Calais.  Even though the vin # says that it 
is.  I
>am told that Calais were not made in 81.  The trim and everything 
related
>to the look of the car says Calais.  But I'm still told its not.  So do 
I
>have a Calais or not?  The actual definition based on the Vin is 
Oldsmobile
>Cutlass Calais 2 door Notchback Coupe. Its a K-Body car.  So if someone 
can
>help me with this, I would really appreciate it.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Tony Urwin
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 01:05:48 -0500
From: "Erik Gertsen" <ainode@frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: test, ignore, unless your really bored ;)

Boredom boredom boredom!
Erik
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Gutlass66@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 1999 12:19 PM
Subject: test, ignore, unless your really bored ;)


>thanks, just testing
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 00:10:25 -0600 (CST)
From: Kimberly Ann Wandrey <kaw0006@jove.acs.unt.edu>
Subject: PARTS WANTED (fwd)

Hi Everyone!

This person is not subbed to the Olds list. If you can help him, please
respond privately to bbran@mail.brightok.net. Thanks! :) 

Kim & Junior ('72 Cutlass Supreme)

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 16:52:47
From: bct@mail.airmail.net
To: kaw0006@jove.acs.unt.edu
Subject: PARTS WANTED

>LOOKING FOR:
>
>'68, '69, or '70 Toronado VACUUM TANK for headlamps
>
>'70-W-31 HARMONIC BALANCER and CARB # 7040255
>
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bob Brannan
>POBox 527
>Marietta,Ok. 73448
>
>580-276-9932
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 00:16:49 -0600 (CST)
From: Kimberly Ann Wandrey <kaw0006@jove.acs.unt.edu>
Subject: '63 Olds Parts

Hi Everyone! :) 

A person I know has some '63 Olds parts he wants to sell (more like get
rid of) and I am sorry, but I cant recall what he parts he has left. 

His name is Brian Laswell and you can contact him at
printertech@yahoo.com. 

Thanks! :)

Kim & Junior ('72 Cutlass Supreme)
Dallas, Texas
Member NTOC & OCA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 01:42:17 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: 81 Cutlass

In a message dated 1/20/1999 12:29:32 AM Eastern Standard Time,
jasonshreve@hotmail.com writes:

<< My sister had a Cutlass Calais.  I always thought it was strange. I had 
 never seen a G-body  Calais before.  It was a highly optioned car.  It 
 even had a power sunroof (couldn't get it to work though). It was a 81 
 or 82, I can't remember at the moment. >>


My parents had a Calais.  Pre 80 (79 maybe?) it was burgundy with a half top,
power moon roof, bucket seats.....  great car!

Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 23:52:13 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Wire Hubcaps

I missed the first posting of this, but if you're looking to find a good 
cleaner
for spoke wheels or hubcaps, the ~bestest~ thing I've ~ever~ used was some
strain of hydrochloric acid.  Put ya in a hospital if you use it in a small
garage without ventilation or breathing filters, but the stuff kicks ass!  Just
spray it on, let it foam for about thirty seconds, and rinse.  That's it.  If
you get really proficient, you can spray the wheel, take the Ajax coverred wire
scrub brush around the tire, and rinse, and get the whole thing beautiful in 30
seconds per corner.  

My favorite was a detail job with lots of dirty chrome, lots of tar, and a
filthy vinyl top.  Used a good dose of the HCl, probably half a gallon of
lacquer thinner, and some super potent Mopar vinyl top cleaner.  (Also good
stuff!!! -- But strong!)  I cleared out the entire shop...  Opened up both 18'
doors and took an early coffee break ;)

Oh, this HCl most likely isn't available over the counter, you need a
prescription... I mean... a dealers license...   :) but you might be able to
sweet talk a local detail shop or dealer to order you some.  The stuff we used
was simply called "Wire wheel cleaner" but consisted of an almost pure HCl.



Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 00:14:12 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Career Planning - Wyoming Tech

I'm not sure about the completeness of W.Tech, but I've heard nothing but great
stuff about their auto program.  If I were to suggest anything, I'd look into
going their first to get all the ~good~ technical information, and then go to a
fully accredited college/university and get a bachelor's degree.  Corporations
like to get folks with knowledge of their fields, but they'll almost always 
take
preference towards those with more broadfield experience and a better degree. 
That's one of the plusses of MSU-Northern in Havre MT, which led GM, through
EDS, to recruit a majority of their employees from MSU-Northern....  Although
other campusses cried about that, and now they've been more diplomatic for 
where
they recruit from...  Sorta like affirmative action... kinda.  Between that and
the strike, I presume, is why I never heard back from Oldsmobile.  

But the expanded educational fields look really nice on a resume.  Most
corporate level recruiters will look for management experience, computer/data
experience, and basic teamwork/people skills in their potential recruits.  

Wyoming Tech would likely be an excellent source for hands-on experience, but
I'd plan on taking more steps to further the education beyond that.  I've heard
there's some college in the Denver area that now offers a ~MASTERS~ in
Automotive Technology.  Now ~THAT~ would be sweet on a resume...  Along with a
Bachelors in Business Administration, and certificates in electronics 
technology
and computer sciences...  Those are all fields that the employers are looking
for, and any combination of those will be a bonus to just a standalone degree. 
While a single degree will guarantee getting an interview, and a fair shake, 
and
give a good shot at a decent job, the extra add-ons of experience can make a
substantial difference in job offers.  I've seen (or heard about) similarly
qualified applicants both getting hired, the candidate with a higher degree was
offerred something like $5000 higher starting salary.  Just something to
consider.  

Your son's conditions are a little different, I'd imagine he'd be looking to
start his own business, rather than go to work for someone else.  Either way,
the education will look great on his resume, and instead of employers butts to
kiss, he'll be needing to impress the bankers instead.  Each degree or
accomplishment may well get him that much more money approved from the SBA when
it comes time to get his Restoration business started.  ...As will the straight
A's :)

Best of luck!
- -- 

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1725
*********************************

