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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1749


oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, February 3 1999     Volume 01 : Number 1749



Re: Pre-ignition oiling was: Priming and an Idea
seat belt upgrades...
Re: 70-72 Buckets
Production numbers (option production)
advice to new guy
Blower Motor switch
Re: 70-72 Buckets
Re: Blower Motor switch
Re: 
oil accumulators
Re: Feasibility of a site with list of Olds sellers and ratings.
Re: Performance improvements of 1 Vs 3 angle valve job.
Forgot to mention...
FS: '75 Hurst (in Kansas)
Re: Olds 455 Engine Stand
ID'ing a 455 head (383021)
help
Re: 70-72 Buckets
Re: Blower Motor switch
rear springs
Re: 70-72 Buckets
Re: ID'ing a 455 head (383021)
Re: rear springs
Re: Blower Motor switch
Vista Cruiser
Vista Cruiser
Re: 1978 Oldsmobile Delta Royale
Re: Groundhog
Re: ID'ing a 455 head (383021)
Re: Performance improvements of 1 Vs 3 angle valve job.
carb ID
Re: Vista Cruiser
Re: carb ID
Re: seat belt upgrades...
Personal Plates
Re: Personal Plates
Re: New Guy
Re: 70-72 Buckets
Re: rear springs
Re: Vista Cruiser
UNBOUNCE: RE:rear springs
Rear Coil Springs.
Seat belt question
Re: Feasibility of a site with list of Olds sellers and ratings.
glass for 71 cutlass s
Re: 455 Rebuilt
Re: Seat belt question
Re: glass for 71 cutlass s
Re: 69 Olds Cutlass Front Fenders
Re: 70-72 Buckets
Re: Blower Motor switch
Re: Performance improvements of 1 Vs 3 angle valve job.
71 SX
Re: New Guy
Re: glass for 71 cutlass s
Re: glass for 71 cutlass s
Re: 70-72 Buckets(tall guy story)
Re: glass for 71 cutlass s
Re: glass for 71 cutlass s
Aftrmkt Cruise Control
Re: 1978 Oldsmobile Delta Royale
Re: olds history center
Re: Blower Motor switch
70-72 Rear-view mirror piece
New Hot Rod
Re: Eastwood Co

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 12:54:33 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Pre-ignition oiling was: Priming and an Idea

In a message dated 99-02-01 15:19:08 EST, you write:

<<  There are check valves and release valves which control this process.  The
accumulator plumbs into the oil filter pad through an adapter like an oil
cooler.......
 These systems have the added advantage that under high lateral g-loads (as
 in during road racing), the accumulator can supply oil during periods when
 the oil pickup is temporarily uncovered. >>

Karl smells a computer control somewhere.....

Who makes these and what applications are they available for (and yah, $400+)?

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 10:03 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: seat belt upgrades...

    A recent thread on this list brought up the extreme importance of 
always wearing seatbelts when in a car. I always do wear a seat belt, 
but all the same one of the things I like least about both my 
wonderful old cars is the two-piece seatbelts, with the shoulder belt 
that's fixed in length and the lap belt that's spring-loaded and which 
rachets itself tighter and tighter around my middle with every bump in 
the road. Not only are they uncomfortable to wear for long periods of 
time, most of my passengers struggle with them for a while before they 
figure out how they work. I'm pretty tall, so I have the seat all the 
way back, and if I adjust the shoulder belt to be snug across my front 
then I can't reach the foot-brake release lever! 

    I'm thinking of transplanting seatbelts from some other, newer car 
into my Supreme. What I'm hoping to get is newer belts with the 
pendulum sensor, the ones that lock up in a crash but otherwise give 
you freedom of movement. I've already made a quick survey in a local 
junkyard, and I found that seatbelts from various Japanese mini pickup 
trucks looked like the best candidates (please, no anti-Japanese 
tirades!). Most American and European cars and trucks I looked at had 
the belt reels, etc, integrated into the plastic interior panels, 
making transplants hard. The pickup trucks on the other hand have 
everything out in the open and self-contained. 

    I don't know a lot about the engineering behind seat-belts, but 
from looking at factory seatbelts it seems fairly obvious that the 
mounting bolts should be loaded in shear by the belt mountings, not in 
tension. A quick calculation (200 lb passenger in a 50g peak 
deceleration accident) also indicates that the belts and belt 
mountings may have to deal with peak forces of 10,000 lbs!!  That 
being the case, I'd like to use the factory anchor points rather than 
manufacture my own, as the factory presumably took care that the 
factory mounting points can take that kind of load.

    So, here's my question. Have any of you listees done such a swap, 
and if so what was your donor car and what else did you have to do 
(manufacture brackets, etc) to make it work?

    I realise that this subject probably will have lawyers across the 
country licking their lips at the possibility of large liability suits 
against any individual foolhardy enough to suggest modifying the 
factory seat-belts, so maybe anyone replying to this should mention 
that their modified seatbelts are used only in cars driven by trained 
hamsters, with no human passengers on board, and driven only on closed 
roads on private property in a small third-world country outside the 
jurisdiction of the American government.


- -John Carri

'72 Cutlass Supreme
'73 Plymouth Road Runner

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 13:15:00 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 70-72 Buckets

 What I'm thinking of trying is to place a
"block" under the front seat mountings
______

Don,

Here's a quick fix to try.  Tilt the seat forward and you should see a pair
of oblong black plastic bumpers on the seat bottom inboard of the seatback
hinges.  These bumpers are usually held in with phillips head screws.
Remove the bumpers and the seatback will tilt back at a greater angle.  If
that's too much of an angle, you can try just cutting the bumpers down to
something less than their original height.  The bumpers are available
repro, so if you ever want to put the car back to original, simply get new
bumpers.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 12:52:48 -0600
From: "James Moore" <panman638@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Production numbers (option production)

I Have a 1972 4-4-2. It is just a W-29 with a 350. I know all the codes and
production # about the amount of 4-speed's, auto, hard top , and conv.
  What I am looking for is the production from the options on the car, I
have tilt, p.s.,front disc, a/c,tilt,cruise, power seat, dual gate, power
windows, and some more little things that I cannot think of at the moment. I
would like some info were I can find the numbers of cars built that match my
options on this car.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 14:05:21 -0500 (EST)
From: throckmail@webtv.net (mark sopp)
Subject: advice to new guy

i hope you learned something from spyder gear project,i did ,ask
first,weld later.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 13:14:17 +0000
From: pipe <banner@kwom.com>
Subject: Blower Motor switch

List;

    Need help with my blower motor switch. It only the first three positions
work. The last position (Hi) does not work. When I switch it to Hi it
turns off the blower completely. You can hear the solenoid clicking when
turned to ?Hi? position. The car is a 74 98 with Tempmatic Air. If you
can, please email personally I'm working on the car today after work.

Thanks;
James Aiello
74 Olds 98
70 Cutlass Conv.
70 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 11:05 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: 70-72 Buckets

  Steve Dietrich said :

>Does anyone here find that the track movement on the 70-72 bucket 
>seats is too short ?  The seats do not seam to go back far enough for 
>me and this has me eating the steering wheel.  I'm 6'2" and it's very 
>hard to get in and out, and not very comfortable to drive my 71 442 
>Conv..

   I know exactly what you mean. I'm 6'2" also, and that leads to a 
number of ergonomic shortcomings in my '72 Supreme :

   1) The seats don't go back far enough, its hard to get in and out,
      hard to get my right knee under the steering wheel when getting
      in, my knees stick up while driving so its harder to get a good
      foot position on the gas and brake pedal, and my knee hurts in
      severe stop and go traffic because of the weird way my leg is
      angled and twisted to reach the brake.
  
   2) With the seat all the way back and the seatbelts on, I can 
      either tighten my shoulder belt snug for maximum
      effectiveness, or reach the footbrake release, but not both!
      Also hard to reach the radio.
    
   3) The rear-view mirror hangs down too low and causes a huge
      blind spot. I tried raising it, but the top edge of the rear
      windshield on my car is a couple of inches lower than the top
      edge of the front windshield, so with the mirror raised enough   
      to eliminate the blind spot half of its sightline is cut off
      by the headliner above the rear glass.

   4) When the sun is low and on my left side, I'm out of luck,
      because the sun visor is too short and ends several inches in
      front of my head of where my head is! 

   5) When the sun is in low in front of me I'm also out of luck, 
      because flipping the sun visor down places it squarely in front
      of my eyes, blinding me totally.

   
      Haven't fixed any of these yet, but my plan is to put in
bucket seats further back than the factory location, replace the 
locking seatbelts with modern pendulum-sensor seatbelts so I can reach
the footbrake release and radio, put in shorter front coil springs and 
eventually taller F/B body spindles to make the car rake slightly nose 
down so that the rear-view mirror sightline is not cut off by the top 
edge of the rear glass, and just live with the unuseable sun visors!

      Gripes aside, I'm SOOOOOOO thankful to be driving my big and
relatively roomy Olds now, for a while I was commuting in a Mitsubishi 
Colt, I was practically a press-fit in that thing. Had to heat the car 
red-hot and take a liquid-nitrogen bath to squeeze myself in ;) .

     
      How about any stories from the other end of the tallness 
spectrum? Anyone out there who's 4'8" tall and has to sit on a cushion 
to see over the dashpad?

- -John Carri
'72 Cutlass Supreme
'73 Plymouth Road Runner 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 14:49:43 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Re: Blower Motor switch

More often than not, it is not the switch.  High speed is on a different
circuit and goes through a relay under the hood.  Check the relay for power,
but first of all make sure the under hood connections are tight.  Another one
of those wonderful designs by the same idiots who put the distributors on the
back end of the engine.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 12:55:44 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: 

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> 
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From:   "Ray Costanzo" <olds4sale@hotmail.com>
> Subject: CLASSIFIED'S LIST
> 
> A new list has been formed that may be of some use.  It is the Olds
> Classifieds list.  It is intended for the spreading of information of
> Olds cars and parts that are for sale or being sought after.  If you
> would like to s*bscribe, please visit:  http://olds4sale.listbot.com/
> and submit your s*bscribe request.  Hopefully we can all help eachother
> find the parts/cars/parts-cars we're looking for and keep some of those
> Oldses from going to the crusher.  Thank you.

I just took a look and there was only one item for sale.  I'm not sure why
Master Costanzo has too many of these he did not specify the year or the
condition of the item.  Is it new?, barely used?  Has it ever been involved in
an accident?

I guess it brings a whole new meaning to the phrase "parting out".
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 14:17:48 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: oil accumulators

<snipped>
>
>Karl smells a computer control somewhere.....
>
>Who makes these and what applications are they available for (and yah, $400+)?
>
>SOM
>
Accumulators are NOT the $440 +/- pre-luber I & others mentioned. 
Accumulators can be had for around $50 (1.5 quart size.) Accumulators can be 
used as manual pre-lubers.   The  usual Summit/ Jegs/ speed shop suppliers.

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 12:09:58 -0800 
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re: Feasibility of a site with list of Olds sellers and ratings.

> Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 20:35:08 -0500
> From: "Gib Loudon" <cutlass@mill.tds.net>
> Subject: Re: Feasibility of a site with list of Olds sellers and ratings.

>Too all that were interested in creating the list of good and bad sellers,
I
> am volunteering to put up this list on Cutlass Net.  All I ask is that you
> all come up with a list of dealers you have had problems with and ones you
> recommend, and I'll be happy to add them to Cutlass Net.  Just let me
know.
>I'm not sure who started the Idea, but if that person could contact me,
> please do so using the info below.

> Gib "The Rocketman" Loudon
>Cutlass Net
> Http://www.cutlass.net
> cutlass@mill.tds.net
> loud5269@kettering.edu

Gib,
	It would benefit everyone to have a list of Major Vendors [Year One,
Supercars Unlimited, Dick Miller, Mondello, PAW, Summit, etc..], and their
comments.  

1.  The Time it took to receive order, was it delivered in a timely fashion
as promised?  [Rating 1-5]	
2.  The salesperson.  Were they knowledgeable?  [Rating 1-5]	
3.  Did you receive all of the ordered parts?  [Yes / No]
4.  Were you satisfied with the service provided   [Yes / No]
5.  Would you order from them again [Yes /No]

I'd Like to see a Pulldown type menu with possible answers to these common
questions for each comment submittal.  Then, also a separate section for
comments from each person.

I think this would be GREAT for ALL of us!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 12:35:41 -0800 
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re: Performance improvements of 1 Vs 3 angle valve job.

> Hi list,
> well I talked to the shop today and it was nothing but bad news.  The E
> heads I already had done by a different shop have only a 1 angle valve
> job done.  He also said that the springs are stock, probably the
> original ones, and have 60 lbs. force at the seat.  He says I need a 3
> angle grind, and new Crane springs (90-110 lbs.. at the seat).

> I asked how much he wanted to port the exhaust bowls, grind off the
> A.I.R. bumps, and smooth out the exhaust side.  He said $200 U.S.  

Don't worry about that right now.  It's not that important as the valve job.

[SNIP]

>> So the question is, how much will a 1 angle valve job hold me back? 

A 1 angle valve job is definitely OLD SCHOOL.  Grampa style.  What a 3 angle
valve job does is locate exactly where the valve seat will contact/mate with
the valve.  Using the 3 angle method you can specifically set the location
at which this contact takes place on the VALVE FACE itself.  You first
(assuming the valve guides are in good shape, knurled or new) do a 45 (or
46) angle cut then you use a 60 degree, then follow up with a 30 degree cut.
What you are doing is first creating one big 45 surface.  Then you narrow
down that area by using the 60 and 30 degree cutters.  By doing this you
specifically locate where the valve seat will mate with the valve face, and
how wide the contact surface will be.  You don't want it too high (Toward
the valve stem) or too low.  Obviously it is desired to have it centered on
the valve.


> I'm thinking that I have to get the springs because I really don't want
to break an old spring and drop a valve. 

Get new springs to match the cam which you are installing it's a must, and
the machinist will also (Should if he knows what he is doing) set the
installed spring height.  This specification is with the springs, and is
VERY important.

>  I'm only going to be running a
> CS1023 cam (214/224, 472/.496) so I don't think the springs need to be
> much better than stock.  

Consult the tech and see which springs are matched to that cam.

If I were you I would get the heads resurfaced, 3 angle valve job, new or
knurled valve guides, and have the spring height set.

When I did this back in early 90's it only cost about $185 per pair.  The
valve job was $90.00, Resurface was $20.00, and I don't recall the cost of
the valve guide reconditioning/new installation.

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 12:39:24 -0800 
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Forgot to mention...

From the previous 1 angle valve job post....


I forgot to mention it is imperative that you install NEW lifters with a new
cam.


Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 16:03:14 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: FS: '75 Hurst (in Kansas)

For sale, need to call them directly,


>75 HURST OLDSMOBILE, W-25, dual gate automatic, t-tops, swivel
>buckets, no rust, Florida CAR, 94000, all documentation, runs and
>drives great, $3850 Call 913-397-0656 (Olathe, KS)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 13:13:23 -0800 
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re: Olds 455 Engine Stand

> Date: Mon, 1 Feb 99 22:52:51 +0000
> From: deckcorp@fiberia.com
> Subject: Olds 455 Engine Stand
	
> I am prepare a buildup of a 455 Olds Engine and have been try to locate a
stand.  I have
> found many places selling ford and chevy stands, but no olds.  If anyone
knows of an
> online or mail company that sells Olds stands, or knows of anyone in
Connecticut selling
> Olds 455 stand I would like to know.
> Thank You,
> Christopher Decker


Christopher,
	There is nothing specific about an engine stand (Chevy, Ford...)  I
would suggest that you get a 4 legged stand, NOT a 3 as they are very tipsy
with a fully assembled engine.

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 14:01:16 -0800
From: Jim Bauman <jbauman@earthlink.net>
Subject: ID'ing a 455 head (383021)

Hi,

Tne www.442.com web site (isn't that great??!!) lists all the heads
for Olds big blocks. I have an engine rebuilder telling me that the
"C" heads should be casting number 383021 (from the PERA book), 
but the web site sez it should be 394548. I believe the web site.
Anyone run across a GM head with the 383021 casting number? Is it a Caddy
or Buick head maybe?

Thanks!

Jim Bauman

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 16:43:17 -0500
From: lhappy <lhappy@ufl.edu>
Subject: help

 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 16:48:52 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: 70-72 Buckets

John Carri wrote:
> 
>   Steve Dietrich said :
> 
> >Does anyone here find that the track movement on the 70-72 bucket
> >seats is too short ?  The seats do not seam to go back far enough for
> >me and this has me eating the steering wheel.  
> 
>    I know exactly what you mean. I'm 6'2" also, and that leads to a
> number of ergonomic shortcomings in my '72 Supreme :
> 
That's strange, I'm 6-1 and can sit in my Vista Cruiser and straighten
my legs out if I want, and I wear a 34 inch inseam.  I have a bench
seat, maybe they slide back farther or the backrest sits farther back. 
The seat's worn out, maybe it squats so much when I sit on it I can
clear everything.  The owner's manual says to leave enough slack between
your chest and the shoulder strap to fit your clenched fist between
them.  I do that and I can reach all the contorls including the brake
realease fine.  My knees don't hit the wheel driving but I always hit it
entering and exiting the car.  I have no problem steering with my knees
if I want to. :)  The mirror doesn't block the view too badly but I
think wagons had a higer roof than the coupe.  
	
The seatbelts in these cars were an afterthought.  The lap belt is the
most uncomfortable I've ever used.  Like you said, every time you hit a
bump it goes in another notch.  On long trips I have to unbelt and
rebelt every time my legs start to fall asleep. :)

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 16:59:26 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: Blower Motor switch

pipe wrote:
> 
> List;
> 
>     Need help with my blower motor switch. It only the first three positions
> work. The last position (Hi) does not work. When I switch it to Hi it
> turns off the blower completely. You can hear the solenoid clicking when
> turned to ?Hi? position. 

That solonoid you hear is the "Hi" relay.  Since it's working I'd check
for either a bad connection at the relay or a blown Hi blower fuse.  A
lot of GM cars had a seperat fuse for the "hi" setting, on `72 cars it's
an inline fuse, not sure about 74.  If there's no inline fuse it might
be in the fuse block.  

Good luck.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Surpeme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 15:55:10 -0600 (CST)
From: Donald B Cart <dcart@micro.ti.com>
Subject: rear springs

 I have a 72 Cutlass Conv with the rear-passenger side
drooping a bit. Can I just replace that one spring or
should I do both sides to make sure they're even ? How
involved is replacing a spring (special tools, techniques,
any might-as-wells, etc) ? Ride height is fine except for
this. Rest of suspension is acceptable, but I don't take
corners at speed. Any suggestions on where or brands of
springs to get ?

Thanks,
Don
72 Cutlass Conv
91 Calias

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 16:54:03 EST
From: Lou0118@aol.com
Subject: Re: 70-72 Buckets

In a message dated 02/02/1999 10:58:25 AM Eastern Standard Time,
SrDietW30@aol.com writes:

<< Does anyone here find that the track movement on the 70-72 bucket seats is
to
 short ?  The seats do not seam to go back far enough for me and this has me
 eating the steering wheel.  I'm 6'2" and it's very hard to get in and out,
and
 not very comfortable to drive my 71 442 Conv..
  >>

I'm 6'4" and I fit fine in my 69 442.  I did test drive a 71 442 before I got
my 69 and did notice that it was a little tight.

Maybe you could get some 69 seat tracks from a junk yard and try them out.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 17:08:54 EST
From: Oldsfire@aol.com
Subject: Re: ID'ing a 455 head (383021)

TO: Jim Bauman            The C head is #394548   The other head # 383021 is
probably from a 65 model engine!!    Oldsfire@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 17:29:29 -0500
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: rear springs

Don

        It is best to replace these types of parts as a pair. If you put a new
on in one side you'll notice the other side sags then in comparison.

Jim Chermack


At 04:55 PM 2/2/99 , you wrote:
>
> I have a 72 Cutlass Conv with the rear-passenger side
>drooping a bit. Can I just replace that one spring or
>should I do both sides to make sure they're even ? How
>involved is replacing a spring (special tools, techniques,
>any might-as-wells, etc) ? Ride height is fine except for
>this. Rest of suspension is acceptable, but I don't take
>corners at speed. Any suggestions on where or brands of
>springs to get ?
>
>Thanks,
>Don
>72 Cutlass Conv
>91 Calias

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 17:45:28 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Blower Motor switch

James,

I tried to e-mail personally, but the address did not come through on your
post.  If the relay clicks, I would suspect an open circuit in the wiring.
This is most often caused by one of those damned in line plugs GM is so fond
of to speed assembly.  While I am not sure where it is located on a '74, it
is in the harness that hangs just to the rear of the A/C compressor on the
later cars.  The hot feed for the high blower generates enough heat to
partly melt the plastic plug and burn the contacts.  I have butt connected
around the plug on all but one of the Olds I own with excellent results.

Regards,
Fred

- -----Original Message-----
From: pipe <banner@kwom.com>
To: Olds Questions <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 2:09 PM
Subject: Blower Motor switch


List;

    Need help with my blower motor switch. It only the first three positions
work. The last position (Hi) does not work. When I switch it to Hi it
turns off the blower completely. You can hear the solenoid clicking when
turned to ?Hi? position. The car is a 74 98 with Tempmatic Air. If you
can, please email personally I'm working on the car today after work.

Thanks;
James Aiello
74 Olds 98
70 Cutlass Conv.
70 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 14:50:04 -0800 
From: "Quinn, James" <JBQUINN@ZoneAutomation.com>
Subject: Vista Cruiser

Hey, I caught your site, pretty cool. I just picked up a 69 Vista Cruiser.
Do you by chance know where I can get parts i.e. Door weather stripping or
SSII rims? Any help would be appreciated.

Jim

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 14:52:50 -0800 
From: "Quinn, James" <JBQUINN@ZoneAutomation.com>
Subject: Vista Cruiser

Hey, I caught your site, pretty cool. I just picked up a 69 Vista Cruiser.
Do you by chance know where I can get parts i.e. Door weather stripping or
SSII rims? Any help would be appreciated.

Jim

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 19:00:54 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 1978 Oldsmobile Delta Royale

I'm biased, since I have one like this, but it's not a Royale and it's not
in the kind of condition you describe. They are nice cars, especially if
they have been kept up over the years. As to value, I seldom see them at
much more than $3500 for the best one in the world. A 4-door would be
worth slightly less than a 2-door I would think. The market for these is
somewhat limited... they are big, square, and not very trendy. And they
are even getting a little old for the taxicab business, which used to be a
major resale market. 

If you can't find anyone to buy it I would take it off your hands for
cheap... ;-)

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 17:05:01 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Groundhog

For the OLE folks:
Also Buddy Holly, Big Bopper, and Richie Valens, not a fan, just.02
Master Lou
lbiggs@intertek.net


- ----------
> From: Master Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Groundhog

> And for anyone who cares, it's also the day that Sid Vicious died.  20
years
> today.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 18:14:20 EST
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: ID'ing a 455 head (383021)

In a message dated 99-02-02 17:21:41 EST, you write:

<< TO: Jim Bauman            The C head is #394548   The other head # 383021
is
 probably from a 65 model engine!!    Oldsfire@aol.com >>


That number should be 383821 which is a 65 400-425

 head with the cast letter of "A"

W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30 Race Rocket
THERE IS NO JOY LIKE A BIG BLOCK OLDS TOY

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 17:41:58 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Performance improvements of 1 Vs 3 angle valve job.

Stephen:
We moved the contact patch on the valve as high (within reason) as possible
to obtain the largest opening, same with the seat, we then cut out the seat
opening below the contact area to obtain more airflow. This was on a drag
car, don't have to worry about heat dissipation for those short runs, also
on those OLE Hemis we used a five cut on the valve seat. I wouldn't think
it makes much difference on something turning under 5500 rpms. An opinion
only.
Master Lou
lbiggs@intertek.net
 

- ----------
> From: Reed, Stephen <sreed@chatsworth.com>
> To: 'Olds' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Re: Performance improvements of 1 Vs 3 angle valve job.
> 

> 
> A 1 angle valve job is definitely OLD SCHOOL.  Grampa style.  What a 3
angle
> valve job does is locate exactly where the valve seat will contact/mate
with
> the valve.  Using the 3 angle method you can specifically set the
location
> at which this contact takes place on the VALVE FACE itself.  You first
> (assuming the valve guides are in good shape, knurled or new) do a 45 (or
> 46) angle cut then you use a 60 degree, then follow up with a 30 degree
cut.
> What you are doing is first creating one big 45 surface.  Then you narrow
> down that area by using the 60 and 30 degree cutters.  By doing this you
> specifically locate where the valve seat will mate with the valve face,
and
> how wide the contact surface will be.  You don't want it too high (Toward
> the valve stem) or too low.  Obviously it is desired to have it centered
on
> the valve.
(snip)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 19:02:07 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: carb ID

Can anyone ID a Holley #6210 or 6736?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 18:53:55 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Vista Cruiser

I replied to you at your email...thanks for the compliments on my site and I
am glad you enjoyed my 69 Vista Bruiser that I had...Hot Rod Harry from NJ. 
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">1973 Olds Cutlass 455
4speed</A> I hope the info I gave you helps for your parts search.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 19:11:07 -0500
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Re: carb ID

>Can anyone ID a Holley #6210 or 6736?
>
>.......6210 is a Chevy spread bore - 65-70
>.......6736 is a Damifino Gotnoklu

The General     :o{)}
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 19:16:11 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: seat belt upgrades...

In a message dated 2/2/99 12:13:51 PM Central Standard Time,
jcarri@alesis1.usa.com writes:

<< 
     I'm thinking of transplanting seatbelts from some other, newer car 
 into my Supreme. What I'm hoping to get is newer belts with the 
 pendulum sensor, the ones that lock up in a crash but otherwise give 
 you freedom of movement. I've already made a quick survey in a local 
 junkyard, and I found that seatbelts from various Japanese mini pickup 
 trucks looked like the best candidates (please, no anti-Japanese 
 tirades!). Most American and European cars and trucks I looked at had 
 the belt reels, etc, integrated into the plastic interior panels, 
 making transplants hard. The pickup trucks on the other hand have 
 everything out in the open and self-contained. 
  >>


   You are lucky...all the slavage yards in my area remove all seat belts from
their vehicles before they are available for parts. The reason given is that
it would release the sellers of any liability issues as for safety and
function. I am also following this thread as neither of my 65's have factory
~rear~ safety belts.

Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 17:25:17 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Personal Plates

All this talk about personal plates got me thinking:  " what plate should I
get for my Delta".  I thought about NO5.0, BURNOUT, etc, but one just came
into my head and I though about telling you guys for the sole purpose as a
joke.  What about.....442KILR.......442 killer.  That would be a sight on an
OLDSMOBILE.  It was just funny, I would never put that on.  Although my car
could not run against most 442s, it could, however beat some '70s 442 and
probable most '80s 442 (stock, of course).  But then again, apart from its
looks, my car is not a stock '81 Delta 4-door.  Just a joke. All in good
fun.  Igor.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23 posi)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 19:31:51 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Personal Plates

In a message dated 2/2/99 6:28:03 PM Central Standard Time, igor455@home.com
writes:

<< All this talk about personal plates got me thinking:  " what plate should I
 get for my Delta".  I thought about NO5.0, BURNOUT, etc, but one just came
 into my head and I though about telling you guys for the sole purpose as a
 joke.  What about.....442KILR.......442 killer.  That would be a sight on an
 OLDSMOBILE.  It was just funny, I would never put that on.  Although my car
 could not run against most 442s, it could, however beat some '70s 442 and
 probable most '80s 442 (stock, of course).  But then again, apart from its
 looks, my car is not a stock '81 Delta 4-door.  Just a joke. All in good
 fun.  Igor.
  >>



Mine would say "UDLOSE"...or "IDWIN"....

Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 20:32:30 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: New Guy

I would tend to half to agree on this one as I've owned a car with a set of
welded spider gears - in fact I was the one that welded them.  I blew out the
spider gears in my '67 Cutlass after what was probably waaaayyyy to many one
wheel peels followed by equally as many power shifts... man I miss that 330...
Any way the welded spiders act just like a spool on the street - there is no
give once so ever so every time you turn a corner you squeal the inside tire -
even at an idle - believe me I know!  This is extremely hard on tires and worse
yet on suspension pieces - also being that there is absolutely no give. it is
very easy to find yourself facing the wrong way after giving it a little gas
going around a corner in the rain - been there.  Finally the worst thing that
can happen - since there is no give at all - your stock axles see severe
torsional loading every time you turn a corner which leads to - you guessed it
- - snapped axles!  Been there too!  Unfortunately the only way to remedy this 
is
to replace the carrier... sorry to be the barer of bad news!

Robert Collins wrote:

> Welding the spyders was a trick that we used back in the 60's when we were
> 1/4 mile dirt oval racing.  If you welded them you locked the rearend so
> that you had equal traction to both wheels, call it an economy positrac.  I
> don't know what effect this would have on the roadability of your car, but
> it will leave two equal black marks on the pavement.  Maybe someone on the
> list might know of any problems this could cause.  Personally I would not
> want it on a street vehicle as I think under the right conditions it could
> land you into trouble.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 20:35:29 EST
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 70-72 Buckets

In a message dated 2/2/99 10:58:25 AM Eastern Standard Time, SrDietW30@aol.com
writes:

<< 
 Does anyone here find that the track movement on the 70-72 bucket seats is to
 short ?  The seats do not seam to go back far enough for me and this has me
 eating the steering wheel.  I'm 6'2" and it's very hard to get in and out,
and
 not very comfortable to drive my 71 442 Conv..
 
 Any suggestions ??
  >>
My friend put in a power seat unit in his 72 Conv and the seat goes back a
little further and sits down lower, its a 4 way power unit.

Everett  OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 19:42:02 -0600 (CST)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Kevin D. Wood)
Subject: Re: rear springs

Replacing your springs is a pretty simple job.
Put your car up on jack stands and remove the
wheels.  Remove the nuts from the lower shock
bolts and detach the shocks from the rearend.
At this point, you should be able to use a floor
jack to raise one side of the rearend- freeing the
spring to come out rather easily on the oposite side.- and vice versa.  
Springs can be purchased from just about any
decent auto parts store, or there are several
specialty suspension parts suppliers such as
Performance Suspension Technology which will
do a good job too.  The only other thing you may want to replace while
you're there is the
rubber insulator on top of each spring if they are
smashed, cracked or whatever... They do make
a difference in ride noise.

I have changed springs in a lot of these cars and the only one that gave
me trouble is the
1972 Supreme that I have now.  For some reason these springs are a
little taller-  (Cargo
Coils) and I had to wrestle with them a bit.

Take it easy,
Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 19:46:14 -0600 (CST)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Kevin D. Wood)
Subject: Re: Vista Cruiser

- --WebTV-Mail-219259117-157
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit

Does a Vista Cruiser use 14 or 15 inch SSII's?
I took the 14's off of my 72 Supreme and replaced them with some 15"
bolt on center SSII's from a 73 or 74 Cutlass.  

Anyway, If anybody needs a set of 14" SSII's with worn but still
driveable white letter tires and all the Chrome, Center Caps, Trim
Rings-
maybe a little dinged up, but ok- I'm willing to
sell them.  With tires, I imagine delivery might be kind of a pain...
Can deliver to Jefferson, WI swap meet in April.

Just in case...

Thanks
Kevin


- --WebTV-Mail-219259117-157
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From: "Quinn, James" <JBQUINN@ZoneAutomation.com>
To: "'oldsmobile@ccn.cs.dal.ca'" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Vista Cruiser
Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 14:50:04 -0800
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Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

Hey, I caught your site, pretty cool. I just picked up a 69 Vista Cruiser.
Do you by chance know where I can get parts i.e. Door weather stripping or
SSII rims? Any help would be appreciated.

Jim



- --WebTV-Mail-219259117-157--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 22:25:54 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: RE:rear springs

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 19:19:59  -0600
From: Al Frey <alpha1@airmail.net>
To: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: RE:rear springs

Don, there is not much to changing the springs.Jack the car up frame only,
letting the shocks extend. Than remove the lower mounting bolts on the
shocks. You may than jack the car up till the springs are free, careful not
to rip the rubber brake lines. When putting in the new springs I would also
replace the upper isolators. Also you may notice the direction that the old
spring was clocked this will give you the most clearance on your exhaust
system. I bought new springs and isolators from Super Cars Unlimited, and am
very pleased. 
Al.
72 W30
wishing for a 68 442!

Al Frey
alpha1@airmail.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 20:38:07 -0600 (CST)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Kevin D. Wood)
Subject: Rear Coil Springs.

Oh yeah, the springs should be installed with
the very end of the coil (on the rear-end) sitting
at the back of the rear.-  To make it easier, just
take note of how your old springs come out...
One more thing- if you do have to jack up one
end of the rear to get the spring to come out wililngly on the other
side- you will have to 
remove the rear sway bar- if you have one.

It is one of the easier jobs you will find to do.

Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 21:39:24 -0500
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: Seat belt question

I'd like to augment the lap belts on my '72 Cutlass Convertible.

Anybody ever figure out a way to put a shoulder belt into an A-Body
convertible?

I've considered the Schroth setup.  Any other thoughts?

thanks,

jp

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 20:44:02 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Feasibility of a site with list of Olds sellers and ratings.

I think that a ratings scheme similar to ebay's would be the most 
effective.  For those that don't use it, for every favorable comment
you get a point, for every bad comment you get a point deducted.  
This rating shows up next to your name.  If someone wants more info 
they're taken to a screen that shows a summary of how many good/bad
comments that person has and you can scroll down to see the exact
comments.  That way it's easy to search and compare but also to get
more specific info.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 21:44:05 EST
From: MAT68442@aol.com
Subject: glass for 71 cutlass s

I have a 71 Cutlass S 2door hardtop. My question is, will the glass
(windshield,door windows,qtr windows,and rear window) from a 68-69 Chevelle
fit my Cutlass?
I have found a complete set of green tinted glass (from an air conditioned
car) that is in great condition, and I do need a windshield so if the Chevelle
glass will fit I can get it all for about the price of just a windshield.


Mark
87 442 
71 cutlass s

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 20:48:16 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 455 Rebuilt

Jim,
The best way to avoid/fix leaks is to have the head/manifold
mating surface machined down.  Basically it's just using a
huge belt sander that will leave a smooth surface on the iron.
Normally machining just the manifold will work since it tends
to warp with age, and portions of the sealing surface deteriorate
away.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/


> Of course the focus
>now are my manifolds.  The passenger side manifold is not broken but leaks.
>I tried two gaskets right off the bat but that didn't seem to help.  Any
>suggestions?  Also I need to replace the drivers side manifold.  Anybody
>have one for sale?
>
>Jim Brady
>1973 Olds Delta 88 Royale Convertible
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 20:58:54 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Seat belt question

Simplest way would be to use the seats out of one of the late 
model cars that has the seat belt integrated into the seat.  Then
you have the problem of the seats looking out of place.  You 
could take the seats down to the frame and modify it and have
custom uphulstory done but that's pure $$$$ though it would
be possible to make them ~look~ like the factory seats 
somewhat.  Wouldn't do that without reinforcing the seat mounts
though.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

>I'd like to augment the lap belts on my '72 Cutlass Convertible.
>
>Anybody ever figure out a way to put a shoulder belt into an A-Body
>convertible?
>
>I've considered the Schroth setup.  Any other thoughts?
>
>thanks,
>
>jp
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 21:05:48 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: glass for 71 cutlass s

Don't know for sure but would think not.  Best way to find out is to call
a glass shop and ask.  They should be able to look up in thier books
and find out if the part numbers are the same.  Another option is to
gain access to a Hollander interchange book.  Every junkyard has
one (that I've seen).

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

>I have a 71 Cutlass S 2door hardtop. My question is, will the glass
>(windshield,door windows,qtr windows,and rear window) from a 68-69 Chevelle
>fit my Cutlass?
>I have found a complete set of green tinted glass (from an air conditioned
>car) that is in great condition, and I do need a windshield so if the
Chevelle
>glass will fit I can get it all for about the price of just a windshield.
>
>
>Mark
>87 442
>71 cutlass s

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 22:17:55 -0800
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: 69 Olds Cutlass Front Fenders

I'm picking up a '69 four door S on Thursday for a parts car.  It is
described to me to be a complete, straight car.  I'll report on the
condition of the sheet metal to you Thurs. nite.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: PICKER@aol.com <PICKER@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 8:54 AM
Subject: 69 Olds Cutlass Front Fenders


>I am looking for a pair front fenders for my 69 Olds Cutlass.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 22:12:45 EST
From: MAT68442@aol.com
Subject: Re: 70-72 Buckets

I have done this (put a small block under the front of the seat mounting
bolts) on my 87 442, on the pasenger side. I have a power seat on my side of
the car. But raising the front of the seat does make a big difference.I only
raised it about 1/4" , doesn't take much.

	Mark

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 22:23:55 EST
From: RmeCbtEngr@aol.com
Subject: Re: Blower Motor switch

also check to see if you have a resistor  mounted on the circuit , it will
look like 2 ,3 or 4  little coil springs ,  this controls fan speed 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 21:32:36 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Performance improvements of 1 Vs 3 angle valve job.

1 angle valve jobs are old but the 3 angle's as you describe are old
school too.  Most places that do headwork use the new tooling that
cuts all the angles in one pass.  There is also new tooling that replaces
what used to be considered race only 5 or 6 angle jobs with smooth
curves on either side of the margin.  This new tooling is starting to
become more common, but is less effective than the actual backcuts
on the valves themselves.  While a single angle on the seat will leave
you with a very wide margin, a stock valve with no back cut will ruin
a 3 angle job.  Another thing that is considered old school is knurling
guides.  Yes, it does work, but not nearly as long as new bronze
guides.  If your going to go through all the trouble to redo the heads
why scrimp there?  Most shops I have dealt with don't even offer to
knurl guides anymore.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

>A 1 angle valve job is definitely OLD SCHOOL.  Grampa style.  What a 3
angle
>valve job does is locate exactly where the valve seat will contact/mate
with
>the valve.  Using the 3 angle method you can specifically set the location
>at which this contact takes place on the VALVE FACE itself.  You first
>(assuming the valve guides are in good shape, knurled or new) do a 45 (or
>46) angle cut then you use a 60 degree, then follow up with a 30 degree
cut.
>What you are doing is first creating one big 45 surface.  Then you narrow
>down that area by using the 60 and 30 degree cutters.  By doing this you
>specifically locate where the valve seat will mate with the valve face, and
>how wide the contact surface will be.  You don't want it too high (Toward
>the valve stem) or too low.  Obviously it is desired to have it centered on
>the valve.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 23:34:35 -0400
From: "Brian Smith" <smithclan@sprint.ca>
Subject: 71 SX

A great Olds - Muscle and luxury in one rare model.

1820 Hardtops
 357 Convertibles

Brian
71  SX Hardtop

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 22:52:18 EST
From: OLDS44272@aol.com
Subject: Re: New Guy

In a message dated 2/2/99 8:26:50 AM Eastern Standard Time,
collins@peterboro.net writes:

<< Welding the spyders was a trick that we used back in the 60's when we were
 1/4 mile dirt oval racing.  If you welded them you locked the rearend so
 that you had equal traction to both wheels, call it an economy positrac.  I
 don't know what effect this would have on the roadability of your car, but
 it will leave two equal black marks on the pavement.  Maybe someone on the
 list might know of any problems this could cause.  Personally I would not
 want it on a street vehicle as I think under the right conditions it could
 land you into trouble. >>

                          With the gears welded, the rear wheels will turn at
the same speed around a corner. The car will kinda " hop" around the corner
instead of glide though it.To see how this works, try rolling a can of soup
(like Campbell's, the can is the same size on the top and bottom). on the
floor and then try to made it turn. This isn't to easy. But if you had a
plastic cup ( like for picinics) the taper will help the car turn. If you
where making a right turn, the left rear tire will have more distance to
travel than the right rear wheel. The spyder gears let the car glide through
the corner...........Hope this helps .......SCOTT

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 22:50:11 EST
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: glass for 71 cutlass s

In a message dated 99-02-02 22:40:19 EST, you write:

<< I have a 71 Cutlass S 2door hardtop. My question is, will the glass
 (windshield,door windows,qtr windows,and rear window) from a 68-69 Chevelle
 fit my Cutlass?
 I have found a complete set of green tinted glass (from an air conditioned
 car) that is in great condition, and I do need a windshield so if the
Chevelle
 glass will fit I can get it all for about the price of just a windshield.
 
 
 Mark
 87 442 
 71 cutlass s
 
  >>
Only glass that would work in the windshield.   Every thing else is a throw
away.  I just bought a brand new windshield here in Michigan for 136.00.  I
paid another 15.00 for the buytl and installed it.  It is great to see out of
a crystal clear piece of glass.

W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30 race rocket

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 23:07:26 -0500
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: glass for 71 cutlass s

Mark

        The windshield and possibly the doors will fit if they are off a coupe.
4 door and Conv windshields are different also. The rear side and the back
window will NOT swap.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts


At 09:44 PM 2/2/99 , you wrote:
>I have a 71 Cutlass S 2door hardtop. My question is, will the glass
>(windshield,door windows,qtr windows,and rear window) from a 68-69 Chevelle
>fit my Cutlass?
>I have found a complete set of green tinted glass (from an air conditioned
>car) that is in great condition, and I do need a windshield so if the Chevelle
>glass will fit I can get it all for about the price of just a windshield.
>
>
>Mark
>87 442 
>71 cutlass s

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 23:21:37 EST
From: OLDS44272@aol.com
Subject: Re: 70-72 Buckets(tall guy story)

               I had a 72 Supreme in high school. I was ( and still am last i
checked) 6'1". Had bucket seats in car. I sat with my left flat on the floor
and my forearm resting on my knee to steer the car. Well, while going over icy
bridge in winter ( when you are 16, your one car is your only car) i got
tapped by another car from behind. This tap sent me spinning into on-coming
traffic. Due to goofy sitting postion/ inexperience, i could straighten the
car right away. I ended up doing a few 360's. The front of the car hit the
curb. My left knee nailed the steering wheel, smashing my knee cap. I had the
seat belts on, but the where kinda loose.To make things worse, my car was
parallel, blocking both oncoming lanes of traffic. So now my leg is
hurting,and the car is stuck on the curb/sidewalk. I look over my shoulder and
see a car about to hit me. Before i could react, i got hit in the right rear
quater panel. The rear glass didn't break, but the rear seat back was bowed
out. I'll look for the crash pictures  and post them on my page.  The 72
wasn't too bad off. At least  they didn't have to cut me out of the car like
they had to do to the guy driving a mid 80's K-car. His hood/engine was pushed
back into the passenger comparment. My car was driveable after the wreck, but
i did the hospital thing first. six weeks on crutches and some re-hab on the
knee, and all is ok. I drove the car all smashed up till my parents were tired
of the eye sore. I didn't have an extra $1700 to fix the car in 1987, so it
became a parts car. ..........SCOTT :: kicking self in backside for getting
rid of 1st car::

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 23:40:54 EST
From: PICKER@aol.com
Subject: Re: glass for 71 cutlass s

In a message dated 99-02-02 9:14:31 PM Mountain Standard Time,
mbloomer@mindspring.com writes:

<< mbloomer@mindspring.com >>

Mike, please do not refer to all professional Automotive Recyclers as
Junkyards.  There is a large growing group that belong to the Automotive
Recyclers Association, (ARA) that can be reached at www.autorecyc.org, that
are working hard to loose the old Junkyard mentality.  

In answering the interchange question, yes most recycling facilities purchase
the rights to use a interchange system from companies such as Holander whick
is owned by ADP.

Phil Sheppard
Picker@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 23:20:59 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: glass for 71 cutlass s

I apoligize for any insult I have unknowingly made.  For me the term
is a generic one which is akin to calling all soda's a "coke".  It's just
one of those terms that you use that you really don't think about what
it means literally.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

>Mike, please do not refer to all professional Automotive Recyclers as
>Junkyards.  There is a large growing group that belong to the Automotive
>Recyclers Association, (ARA) that can be reached at www.autorecyc.org, that
>are working hard to loose the old Junkyard mentality.
<snip>
>Phil Sheppard
>Picker@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 23:48:14 -0600
From: senator@mail.chorus.net
Subject: Aftrmkt Cruise Control

I just got my new JC Whitney catalog (funny how those things seem to arrive
just before payday) and I was thinking about adding cruise control to my
1978 Cutlass Supreme W-19 (don't know who put the W-19 on, probably a
dealer).
Anyhow, I decided that it would be cheaper to go to a local junkyard.  The
question now is, What *is* the cruise control mechanism?  I don't even know
how it works.  Perhaps someone could help me?

Oh yeah, and since I'm in digest mode, could you please respond to
senator@mail.chorus.net?

Thanks in advance...

Bob
'78 CS

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 22:59:27 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 1978 Oldsmobile Delta Royale

Since I doubt you would get what the car is worth, DON'T get rid of it, even
if you have to get it and store it.  You just can't buy them anymore,
especially in that shape.  KEEPER.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 22:12:52 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: olds history center

Can't you do this by yourself?  You wouldn't have the letter head but 
would have the same info. Correct?


>
>the history center sent me a letter on olds stationary with a breakdown
>and description of every line on the firewall plate.it is a nice item 
to
>have detailing the origin of the car.
>
>


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 22:32:04 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Blower Motor switch

I had this problem, is is the relay located on the firewall by the brake 
booster.  You can get this part at Advanced Auto or Auto zone.  My 71 
had this problem.  And now my 72 is doing it.

>
>    Need help with my blower motor switch. It only the first three 
posi=
>tions
>work. The last position (Hi) does not work. When I switch it to Hi it
>turns off the blower completely. 

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 3 Feb 1999 00:47:03 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: 70-72 Rear-view mirror piece

I have a 72 convertible 442 and I have done a frame-up restoration on it. I
am now in the process of  finishing it off. I can't find the metal bracket
piece that holds the rearview mirrot. This piece holds the mirror in place
and enables you to adjust the mirror. I can't find this piece in any
catalog. Any help??


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 22:44:45 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: New Hot Rod

I was looking at the new Hot Rod today (horrible issue in my opinion).  
Did anyone look at the destroyed 68 Camaro.  I looked right past the 
horrible creation until I noticed the rear engine.  It has a 75 455 Olds 
and a 1975 Toronado trans axle!  Look at the picture though!!! The loser 
made(?) some valve covers with Chevy one them. Screwed up a good Camaro 
and defiled a good 455!

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 23:11:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Larry <kajrav@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: Eastwood Co

Gary,

     I tried it using Netscape 4.5 and had no problem.

                                                Larry




- ---Chris & Robin Miller <cya442@san.rr.com> wrote:
>
> GaryDW30@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > Visited Eastwood Co. site last night for the first time.
> > Perhaps I'm the only one who has had this problem, but my system
crashed.
> > I tried again today, same result! I was using Netscape 4.5
> > I also tried today using AOL 4.whatever, and the same problem,
crashed big
> > time.
> > Has anyone else encountered this problem? How did you solve it?
> > What might I be doing wrong?
> >
> > Gary
> 
> Gary,
>     No problems on this end!  I am using Netscape 4.5.
> 
> --
> Chris Miller
> '68 442
> San Diego, CA
> mailto:cya442@san.rr.com
> 
> 
> 

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------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1749
*********************************

