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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1711


oldsmobile-digest      Saturday, January 9 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1711



1 1/4" Front Sway Bars
Re: the diff between stock 307/HO 307
rallye 350 stripes
Re: order of switches
Re: 1 1/4" Front Sway Bars
So Much for the Aftermarket (was: Bad Coil)
Re: suspension upgrade/rebuild advice needed
Re: So Much for the Aftermarket (was: Bad Coil)
Re: So Much for the Aftermarket (was: Bad Coil)
point shield
Re: More 330/350 questions
Re: point shield
Test dont read
69 442 fender
Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)
Re: 1 1/4" Front Sway Bars
Speaker Location
Re: Speaker Location
Re: So Much for the Aftermarket (was: Bad Coil)
Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)
Re: NASCAR   [was: Re: READ ME: H**p the Olds Cause! ]
Re: point shield
Re: suspension upgrade/rebuild advice needed
Re: NASCAR   [was: Re: READ ME: H**p the Olds Cause! ]
Re: NASCAR   [was: Re: READ ME: H**p the Olds Cause! ]
RE: NASCAR   [was: Re: READ ME: H**p the Olds Cause! ]
Re: So Much for the Aftermarket (was: Bad Coil)
Re: detonation problem
Re: So Much for the Aftermarket (was: Bad Coil)
Re: detonation problem
More electrical qestions
Re: detonation problem
Forsale in JWO for the big car guys
9 motors again
Re: NASCAR   [was: Re: READ ME: H**p the Olds Cause! ]
Re: So Much for the Aftermarket (was: Bad Coil)
Re: More electrical questions
Re: So Much for the Aftermarket (was: Bad Coil)
Re: Forsale in JWO for the big car guys
Re: More electrical questions
Re: Forsale in JWO for the big car guys
Re: 1 1/4" Front Sway Bars
Re: Forsale in JWO for the big car guys
Re: [Speaker Location]
Re: point shield
Re: 1 1/4" Front Sway Bars
Re: Forsale in JWO for the big car guys
test
Re: point shield
roller rockers for edelbrock heads
Heat Pipe--Air Cleaner
Engine Fan
Re: Engine Fan
Re: So Much for the Aftermarket (was: Bad Coil)
Re: roller rockers for edelbrock heads
Re: Increasing Bolt Pattern
Olds Cutlass or 442
'70 vista cruiser parting
Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)
Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)
Re: roller rockers for edelbrock heads
Re: So Much for the Aftermarket (was: Bad Coil)
A/C conversion

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 08:37:00 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: 1 1/4" Front Sway Bars

As someone mentioned yesterday the 1 1/4" front sway bar from a TransAm of
the late 70s will bolt on to an '64-up A-body. I did this last summer and
the results are well worth the effort. If anyone else has done this, I
have a question: what end link kit did you use? I used the end link
sleeves that were on the car and it works, but the clearances
between the sway bar and tie rods is *very* tight, to the point that I'm
not totally comfortable with it. And no, I didn't put the bar on upside
down... :) I bought the kit for a TransAm and that's not an option, the
sleeves are significantly shorter, though I ended up using the urethane
bushings and stout bolts from that kit.

It almost seems that you need an end link sleeve that is 1/2" or so
longer than stock. I have not been able to locate these. Anyone else have
this issue?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 10:10:23 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: the diff between stock 307/HO 307

From: Mark Ivey <mivey@mail.rapid.com>


>I'm new here so take it easy on me.  I was just wondering what the diff
>was between a stock 307 and a HO 307, because I was thinking of
>upgrading my stock 307 to a HO.  It is in a 85 Olds cutlass supreme
>brougham.  If anyone can help I would appreciate it.


30 to 40 h.p., depending on the years compared. Your 85 VIN "Y" motor could
be upgraded to VIN "9" HO status with the '86 - '87 442's cam, carb,
computer chip, and a cat-back dual exhaust. Need the heavier valve springs
too. I'm not sure if there's a piston difference (compression ratio). And if
your CSB has the 2.14 gears you may want 3.73's to take advantage of the
higher power band.

As to the other responses to this post:

From: MAT68442@aol.com
>A big difference in the engines is in the machining tolerences , the HO
>has very tight machining tolerences.

All roller cam engines, Y or 9, have closer machining tolerances than the
older style engines. The free floating wrist pins on these motors allowed
for tighter piston-to-cylinder clearance, which decreases the dead space
around the piston. Less blow-by, better emissions and gas mileage.


.>Didn't all 307's have roller cam starting in 85?  This is true, yes?
>
>Ray Costanzo

According to the 85 factory manual, "Y" engines had roller lifters and "9"
engines still had flat ones. My understanding is that the heads will tell
you for sure - 7A heads on roller motors, 5A heads on standard motors. But
I've heard conflicting inputs on this - one guy says his 85 442 had 7A heads
and another says his 86 has 5A's - so I'm cornfuzed. I'd sure like to know
fer shur. (Mike R. ?)

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 10:19:54 EST
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: rallye 350 stripes

am looking for a set of rallye 350 stripes, will anyone with info. on where i
might get some please reply.  tia.   steven,  w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 09:58:47 -0600
From: steven@purplemonkey.com (Steven Saraceno)
Subject: Re: order of switches

Da, that's what I meant, wiper
switch/cruise/top or wiper switch/top/cruise

mine is wiper switch/top/cruise.  I think my cruise was added later and
they put it in the empty slot.  Though if this was done at the dealer
maybe its OK to have that order.  The cruise set up is correct for a
'70.

Steven
70 W-30 convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 11:17:37 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: 1 1/4" Front Sway Bars

I did the same and used a poly bushing kit with the end bolts for A-body.
You're right, it is tight but I've had it for over a year with no problems.
You could fabricate longer sleeves or buy long ones from perhaps a truck
application and cut them the length you want.

- -----Original Message-----

>As someone mentioned yesterday the 1 1/4" front sway bar from a TransAm of
>the late 70s will bolt on to an '64-up A-body. I did this last summer and
>the results are well worth the effort. If anyone else has done this, I
>have a question: what end link kit did you use? I used the end link
>sleeves that were on the car and it works, but the clearances
>between the sway bar and tie rods is *very* tight, to the point that I'm
>not totally comfortable with it. And no, I didn't put the bar on upside
>down... :) I bought the kit for a TransAm and that's not an option, the
>sleeves are significantly shorter, though I ended up using the urethane
>bushings and stout bolts from that kit.
>
>It almost seems that you need an end link sleeve that is 1/2" or so
>longer than stock. I have not been able to locate these. Anyone else have
>this issue?
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 11:10:21 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: So Much for the Aftermarket (was: Bad Coil)

Well, I swapped the stock coil back in place of the MSD Blaster 2.  I
drove several miles and accelerated kind of hard several times and no
stumbling, bucking or hesitation.  Unless my mind is playing tricks on
me, the idle is better, too. As these problems were getting more
frequent and happening every time I took the car out, even for just the
2 mile trip to work, I feel pretty sure it's fixed. I'm a bit
disappointed in the MSD coil.  I sure would have expected more life out
of it.  I'm not flaming MSD or anything, it just goes to show that even
new or relatively new parts can be flaky, too.  But this whole ordeal
settles it in my mind that when (if) I go to electronic ignition, I'll
use a GM HEI setup.  No sexy aftermarket gizmos.

Many thanks to all who responded.  For those who suggested the fuel
pump, thanks, too.  I'm gonna take your replies as a heads-up and keep
the fuel pump I bought.  Maybe even keep it in the trunk.  I figure it's
cheap insurance.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 09:33:52 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: suspension upgrade/rebuild advice needed

Although I agree that the F swap is a good choice for the brake reason, I'm
not so sure about the geometry statement.  From what I have read in various
circle track mags the A body cars from GM have a desirable front geometry.
I know a guy that hates :-) chevys and he runs a A body front clip in his
mopar powered assvault modified.  The biggest problem with our cars is
Weight.  That damm law of inertia.
:-)

LP.



- -----Original Message-----
From: mbloomer <mbloomer@gateway.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, January 08, 1999 11:06 PM
Subject: Re: suspension upgrade/rebuild advice needed


>If you really want to upgrade look at the F body spindle swap.  This
>combined with the KYB's gave my 72 amazing cornering with the
>stock springs and only a front sway bar (7/8" i think).  No matter
>how big a bar you put on it, the inherent front geometry will make
>it nothing more than a band aid.  Basic benifits of the swap are
>better tire wear, less body roll, bigger brakes (disc), and the
>ability to handle well with stock rate springs.  Before you spend
>big bucks on the trick of the week from Global West or Hotchkis
>try the spindles and KYB's first.  Can be done fairly cheaply and
>will give you the most noticable improvements.  On rubber vs.
>poly, the rubber is fine unless you really like to push your car.  If
>you want that last little bit of cornering go with the poly, but if
>you want ride quality stick with the rubber.  To conserve bandwidth
>feel free to contact me direct about specifics for the spindle swap
>and a list of sources.
>
>Mike B
>mbloomer@gateway.net
>ICQ# 19113713
>72 Cutlass S (RIP)
>68 Cutlass Supreme
>
>>I am in the process of rebuilding/upgrading the suspension on my 72
Cutlass
>>Convertible.  I am looking for a firm (but not harsh) ride with less body
>>roll.  Would a 1 1/4 inch front swaybar with a 1 inch rear bar be
overkill?
>>I will probably have the stock spec springs and KYB Gas Shocks.
>>
>>I am also undecided about polygraphite vs rubber bushings.  I am leaning
>>towards using the stock rubber bushings because of the recommendation in
>>Supercars Unlimited catalog.  Any comments?
>>
>>Darrin Johnson
>>djohnsn@ibm.net
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 11:34:58 -0500
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <tjacquillard@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: So Much for the Aftermarket (was: Bad Coil)

Thomas P Smith wrote:
> 
> Well, I swapped the stock coil back in place of the MSD Blaster 2.  I
> drove several miles and accelerated kind of hard several times and no
> stumbling, bucking or hesitation.  Unless my mind is playing tricks on
> me, the idle is better, too. As these problems were getting more
> frequent and happening every time I took the car out, even for just the
> 2 mile trip to work, I feel pretty sure it's fixed. I'm a bit
> disappointed in the MSD coil.  I sure would have expected more life out
> of it.  I'm not flaming MSD or anything, it just goes to show that even
> new or relatively new parts can be flaky, too.  But this whole ordeal
> settles it in my mind that when (if) I go to electronic ignition, I'll
> use a GM HEI setup.  No sexy aftermarket gizmos.
> SNIP
I had similar problem with an MSD coil a fewyears back. I called the
1-800 # that was in the packet and they sent me a new one and intructed
me to send the old one back in the same box, The coil was only 6 months
old. I didn't catch how long you had yours. If it isn't long, call them.
Sorry I don't have the phone #.
T.J.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 11:52:56 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: So Much for the Aftermarket (was: Bad Coil)

Your welcome and it makes me feel better that your car is running better and
now you can go back to enjoying the drive in you Olds. Harry 
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">1973 Olds Cutlass 455
4speed</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 12:26:29 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: point shield

    On one of my old 98s the points and condenser are covered by a two piece
metal shield.  There is a label inside that bears a Delco part number and
states that the shield is there to minimize radio interference from the
ignition.  Of all my cars, only one has this shield, and it came with an AM
radio.
    The question becomes this:  How common or rare is this cover, and what
were the applications ?  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 12:27:50 -0500
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: More 330/350 questions

Kim, I tried responding to you privately, but my post was continuously
rejected by the server.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Kimberly Ann Wandrey <kaw0006@jove.acs.unt.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, January 08, 1999 2:17 AM
Subject: More 330/350 questions


>Hi Guys and Gals!
>
>I am still debating over the '64 Olds. I have discovered some potential
>fiascos. I now have the following questions:
>
>1. How can you tell if a block is cracked? The last scenario I gave you
>all is I was going to switch the 330 to a 350. The 350 I thought was
>available may not be, so I thought I would go ahead and rebuild the 330
>(if I bought the car). The 330 will not idle and there is no water
>in the radiator. The radiator and hoses seemed to be fine and not leaking.
>Where could the antifreeze have gone?
>
>2. If I get a hold of a 350 block, will the intake and heads from the 330
>fit?
>
>3. Rusty water was coming out of the tailpipe. What does this mean?
>
>4. Smoke was coming out of the valve cover breather and low down on the
>engine on the passenger's side. Is this a sign of a cracked block or
>something else?
>
>5. The whole upper end did not sound like it was oiling and it shook
>violently when it was running. Im not sure if that means anything major,
>but it was something I noticed.
>
>
>Im sorry if these questions seem silly, but I am new at this and I am
>trying to learn. One thing is for sure, that '64 would be one h@!! of a
>learning experience... ;)
>
>Thanks bunches in advance!! :) I will be out of town until Sunday, but I
>am not unsubbing. I will return replies Sunday evening. Thanks so much!!
>:)
>
>Kim & Junior ('72 Cutlass Supreme)
>Dallas, Texas
>Member OCA & NTOC
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 12:37:18 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: point shield

that cover is on my 73 Olds Cutlass S 455/4spd. I think they came on most but
as people would get there cars tuned they were never put back on. A real pain
when it came time to check dwell readings.  Harry from NJ 
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">1973 Olds Cutlass 455
4speed</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 12:55:00 EST
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Test dont read

 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 13:49:18 EST
From: CUTLASS442@aol.com
Subject: 69 442 fender

I have a friend who is not on the list that is in need of a driver fender for
a 69 442. if anybody can help please E-Mail him direct at MITCH442@AOL.COM.
thanks everyone. i know he'll appreciate the help.

richard
Cutlass442@aol.com
1967 oldsmobuick cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 13:02:07 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)

- ----------
> From: Edward Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)
> Date: Friday, January 08, 1999 8:24 PM
> 
> when can I come and get it?
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> >
> >NO ONE HAS A VEGA LIST, I'VE TRIED EVERYWHERE!, can't even find someone
to
> >give it to!
> >Lou Biggs
> >lbiggs@intertek.net
> >
> >----------
> >> From: Arnold, W D <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
> >> To: 'olds' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> >> Subject: Re:  (Non Olds......Sorry)
> >> Date: Friday, January 08, 1999 5:35 PM
> >
> >> The normal cycle usually lasts three or four days, right?
> >> I feel like I qualify to reply since I "don't know jack about cars"
> >either.
> >> Thanks for the invite.
> >>
> >> By the way, neosoft has a listing of alot of Internet mailing lists. 
You
> >> may want to go there and look around in the subject indexes. I tried
> >> automotive and didn't see a MC list. Maybe GP, chevy, pontiac,etc
> >> Link below....
> >>
> >> http://www.neosoft.com/internet/paml/indexes.html
> >>
> >>
> >> Donny Arnold
> >> w.d.arnold@lmco.com
> >>
> >> 72  Olds 442
> >> 41 Chevy
> >> 63 Chevy Truck
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 13:24:18 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 1 1/4" Front Sway Bars

I used a sway bar out of a '76 station wagon.  Same 1 1/4" bar and the
same clearance problem.  My solution was to just cut 1/2" from the
original spacer sleeve to move the bar higher.  This along with making
sure the clamping bolts for the tie rod ends were positioned "down"
gave me plenty of clearance and never had a problem.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>I did the same and used a poly bushing kit with the end bolts for A-body.
>You're right, it is tight but I've had it for over a year with no problems.
>You could fabricate longer sleeves or buy long ones from perhaps a truck
>application and cut them the length you want.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>
>>As someone mentioned yesterday the 1 1/4" front sway bar from a TransAm of
>>the late 70s will bolt on to an '64-up A-body. I did this last summer and
>>the results are well worth the effort. If anyone else has done this, I
>>have a question: what end link kit did you use? I used the end link
>>sleeves that were on the car and it works, but the clearances
>>between the sway bar and tie rods is *very* tight, to the point that I'm
>>not totally comfortable with it. And no, I didn't put the bar on upside
>>down... :) I bought the kit for a TransAm and that's not an option, the
>>sleeves are significantly shorter, though I ended up using the urethane
>>bushings and stout bolts from that kit.
>>
>>It almost seems that you need an end link sleeve that is 1/2" or so
>>longer than stock. I have not been able to locate these. Anyone else have
>>this issue?
>>
>>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 13:40:27 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Speaker Location

I was wondering what is the best speaker direction on a 72 442 convertible?
The factory 6x9 speakers were facing towards the trunk. With the top down
it was hard to hear the speakers. I know have Kenwood 210W speakers and I
was wondering would it be better to face them towards the rear seat or face
towards the trunk(like it was originally). Which would produce the better
sound, both with the top up and down. Has anyone experimented with this?

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 14:42:02 -0500
From: Andy Mikesell <andymikesell@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Speaker Location

I had the same issue with my 71 Delta 88 convertible.  I added an 18 inch boxed
sub woofer in the trunk with quick release connections.  I then put tweeters in
the dash and mids in the doors. With the top down, the sub has no problems
putting bass through the trunk and top.  The speakers up front can be heard in
the back.  The quick release connections allow me to remove the sub at any
time, if needed. The whole system is power by a 600 watt app (under the seat),
with a separate 100 watt channel for the sub.
- - Andy

Peter Landowski wrote:

> I was wondering what is the best speaker direction on a 72 442 convertible?
> The factory 6x9 speakers were facing towards the trunk. With the top down
> it was hard to hear the speakers. I know have Kenwood 210W speakers and I
> was wondering would it be better to face them towards the rear seat or face
> towards the trunk(like it was originally). Which would produce the better
> sound, both with the top up and down. Has anyone experimented with this?
>
> Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 13:05:04 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: So Much for the Aftermarket (was: Bad Coil)

I didn't follow the "Bad Coil" thread so I don't know the whole situation.
But, did you try another Blaster 2 coil? It may have just been bad. I have
been using one in my 62 F-85 for over 2 years with no problem. I am also
using the pertronix and the MSD-6 as well in it and it's been great. My
buddy used a blaster 2 in his 72 Rustang along with the MSD distrib and
MSD-6. No problems there either. If you hadn't already taken it in for a
replacement, I'd suggest you do so.

My thoughts.
Ben

Thomas P. Smith wrote:

> Well, I swapped the stock coil back in place of the MSD Blaster 2.  I
> drove several miles and accelerated kind of hard several times and no
> stumbling, bucking or hesitation.  Unless my mind is playing tricks on
> me, the idle is better, too. As these problems were getting more
> frequent and happening every time I took the car out, even for just the
> 2 mile trip to work, I feel pretty sure it's fixed. I'm a bit
> disappointed in the MSD coil.  I sure would have expected more life out
> of it.  I'm not flaming MSD or anything, it just goes to show that even
> new or relatively new parts can be flaky, too.  But this whole ordeal
> settles it in my mind that when (if) I go to electronic ignition, I'll
> use a GM HEI setup.  No sexy aftermarket gizmos.
>
> Many thanks to all who responded.  For those who suggested the fuel
> pump, thanks, too.  I'm gonna take your replies as a heads-up and keep
> the fuel pump I bought.  Maybe even keep it in the trunk.  I figure it's
> cheap insurance.
>
> --
> Thomas P. Smith
> 1971 Cutlass S 350
> smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 14:14:10 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)

Trond-Jarle, 
That is my next move, you are invited to the good ole USA for a good
meal!!, I'll get the list to buy the meat, I'll cook with your gracious
help.
Lou
PS List, we need meat and side dishes, having folks from the old country we
should do them right!! No moose meat!
- ----------
> From: Trond Pedersen <trondped@c2i.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: SV: (Non Olds......Sorry)

> Lou. 
> have you tried to transfom it into a barbeq?
> my lokal club did it ones with a F*rd.
> chop the topp off, out with the interior, 
> putt briks in it to isolate it from the heat.
> charcoal. a match and away we go.
> great way to get something usefull out of a f*rd
> 
> Trond-Jarle

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 14:15:52 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: NASCAR   [was: Re: READ ME: H**p the Olds Cause! ]

Bernie, 
Dale, Dale, Dale, AKA, "Ironhead"
Lou

- ----------
> From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: NASCAR   [was: Re: READ ME: H**p the Olds Cause! ]
> Im a Dale Jarrett fan, along w/Jeff Burton. Anybody but Gordon !!!!
>  Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 14:23:34 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: point shield

Peter, 
Common to am radios applications. Fm doesn't attract the interference the
same way. Here anything on the 421 poncho heads??
Lou
- ----------
> From: Peter Berusch <pber710840@email.msn.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: point shield
> Date: Saturday, January 09, 1999 11:26 AM
> 
>     On one of my old 98s the points and condenser are covered by a two
piece
> metal shield.  There is a label inside that bears a Delco part number and
> states that the shield is there to minimize radio interference from the
> ignition.  Of all my cars, only one has this shield, and it came with an
AM
> radio.
>     The question becomes this:  How common or rare is this cover, and
what
> were the applications ?  Peter.
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 14:20:09 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: suspension upgrade/rebuild advice needed

All the circle track cars I've seen that use this suspension, both asphault
and dirt, start off initially with a lot of negative camber in the right
front
tire.  The tricks they use on these cars are not exactly applicable to a
street car.  How many people out there with 64 to 72 A bodies have
had a problem with the ouside shoulder of the front tires rounding off?
This is symptomatic of an inherent design flaw and the outside front
tire "folding over" during cornering.  You can either stiffen the suspension
up until it jars your fillings loose (or dentures, as the case may be :)
just
kidding) which amounts to nothing more than a band aid or you can do
something about the problem.  Revising the geometry with the spindle
swap saves the front tires and goes a long way towards a more neutral
handling car while still utilizing stock rate springs.  Seeing the
difference
in the amount of tire wear (and seeing the marks half way up the sidewall
where the tire folded over!) was enough to convince me, and yes, I do
drive my cars hard.


>Although I agree that the F swap is a good choice for the brake reason, I'm
>not so sure about the geometry statement.  From what I have read in various
>circle track mags the A body cars from GM have a desirable front geometry.
>I know a guy that hates :-) chevys and he runs a A body front clip in his
>mopar powered assvault modified.  The biggest problem with our cars is
>Weight.  That damm law of inertia.
>:-)
>
>LP.
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 15:23:26 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: NASCAR   [was: Re: READ ME: H**p the Olds Cause! ]

Lou Biggs wrote:

> Bernie,
> Dale, Dale, Dale, AKA, "Ironhead"
> Lou
>

Lou,
#6 MM #1 at being #2
Mark

> ----------
> > From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Re: NASCAR   [was: Re: READ ME: H**p the Olds Cause! ]
> > Im a Dale Jarrett fan, along w/Jeff Burton. Anybody but Gordon !!!!
> >  Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 14:29:41 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: NASCAR   [was: Re: READ ME: H**p the Olds Cause! ]

Mark, 
Good man, wrong brand car!
Lou
- ----------
> From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: NASCAR   [was: Re: READ ME: H**p the Olds Cause! ]
> Date: Saturday, January 09, 1999 2:23 PM
 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 15:35:38 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: NASCAR   [was: Re: READ ME: H**p the Olds Cause! ]

#3 #1 at qualifying 33. Not in 99 though, so we hope...

- -----Original Message-----
Lou,
#6 MM #1 at being #2
Mark

> ----------
> > From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Re: NASCAR   [was: Re: READ ME: H**p the Olds Cause! ]
> > Im a Dale Jarrett fan, along w/Jeff Burton. Anybody but Gordon !!!!
> >  Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 14:45:22 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: So Much for the Aftermarket (was: Bad Coil)

Thomas,
Just to clarify here as I have used many MSD products over the
years and never had the problems like you describe, so I have 
never seen poor quality control from them, but are you sure you 
had the MSD coil installed properly?  Not to insult your intelligence
but the Blaster 2 coil, when using it with points or a Mallory unilite
system requires a 0.8 ohm ballast resistor wired in line on the 
positive terminal of the coil.  MSD sells the coil with and without the
resistor but If you didn't use ~thier~ parts (resistor) as they say to 
then the coil failure can't really be blamed on them.  I highly suggest
giving them a call and giving them the opportunity to make things
right.  I'm sure they will stand behind thier products and take care
of you.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme
 
>Well, I swapped the stock coil back in place of the MSD Blaster 2.  I
>drove several miles and accelerated kind of hard several times and no
>stumbling, bucking or hesitation.  Unless my mind is playing tricks on
>me, the idle is better, too. As these problems were getting more
>frequent and happening every time I took the car out, even for just the
>2 mile trip to work, I feel pretty sure it's fixed. I'm a bit
>disappointed in the MSD coil.  I sure would have expected more life out
>of it.  I'm not flaming MSD or anything, it just goes to show that even
>new or relatively new parts can be flaky, too.  But this whole ordeal
>settles it in my mind that when (if) I go to electronic ignition, I'll
>use a GM HEI setup.  No sexy aftermarket gizmos.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 14:51:32 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: detonation problem

- -----Original Message-----
From: EDZX6@aol.com <EDZX6@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, January 07, 1999 11:09 AM
Subject: detonation problem


>I have a detonation problem on my 72 Cutlass. First let me give you the
>ingredients involved, HEI w/ no vacuum adv canister and centrifugal adv
locked
>out (by method of welding), MSD 6AL ignition, MSD programmable timing
>computer. As per the FAQ's I've set initial timing at 18 (recommended
15-18)
>total timing at 36 (recommended 32-36) and full advance at 1800 RPM
>(recommended about 1500 RPM for std tranny). To my understanding detonation
at
>WOT is caused by amount of total timing and detonation at part throtle is
>caused by amount of vacuum advance. My detonation is happenig at part
throtle
>(cruise) and goes away as soon as I either let the throtle go or lightly
press
>on it. I have no detonation at WOT and I'm not using a vaccum advance so
how
>can I controll part throtle detonation? Any inputs would be appreciated and
>please feel free to correct me on any incorrect information. One last note
of
>information, the HEI dist. was picked up at a local junk yard but was
working
>fine previously on the same vehicle and I'm using the magnetic pickup to
>trigger it.
>
>Eddie      72 Cutlass conv 4spd
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 15:55:25 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: So Much for the Aftermarket (was: Bad Coil)

I dont think the coil guy is blasting MSD. He just wanted his car to run right
so he put the old coil on and she seems to run fine now. I am sure he has
nothing against MSD. Give him a break, enough of this mountain out of an ant
hill stuff. You guys are driving me to drink Harry from NJ 
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">1973 Olds Cutlass 455
4speed</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 15:57:29 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: detonation problem

Have your full advance come in at 2,500rpms. What gears are you running.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 16:06:47 -0500
From: dgerow@student.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: More electrical qestions

I'm on my 2nd new voltage regulator, 3rd Alternator, and 2nd battery in
my '71 Cutlass.  Everything is fine now, except I've noticed one little
thing;  Is it normal for a battery to hiss?  I just bought a brand new
Die-Hard, and I've noticed a hissing noise coming from the top where the
cell caps are.  Should I worry about this?

Thanks,

Dan Gerow

'69 4-4-2
'71 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 15:11:04 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: detonation problem

Eddie,
First, what type of fuel are you using?  If your using Premium unleaded
your curve seems to be a bit steep.  I can't find the part of the FAQ that
recommends 15-18 initial but that is kind of the high side.  Back off to
15/32 and see what happens.  Keep in mind that the hotter the engine
gets the more prone it will be to detonate.  The only thing to do is to
play with your curve to see where the problem is.  It seems to me, on
the info given, that you have too much timing coming in too quick.  Your
right that part throttle detonation can be caused by amount of vacuum
advance (not always though) but you have a lot of advance coming in
at relatively low rpm's.  I would try to stretch the curve out over a few
more rpms and also note what rpm's your getting the detonation at.
Try using your "slope" adjustment to make the curve angle somewhat
more "shallow".  Dist. curves are a bit of a black art and the timing
computer is a nice piece but it does nothing more than make the
black art of curve a bit easier to work with.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>I have a detonation problem on my 72 Cutlass. First let me give you the
>ingredients involved, HEI w/ no vacuum adv canister and centrifugal adv
locked
>out (by method of welding), MSD 6AL ignition, MSD programmable timing
>computer. As per the FAQ's I've set initial timing at 18 (recommended
15-18)
>total timing at 36 (recommended 32-36) and full advance at 1800 RPM
>(recommended about 1500 RPM for std tranny). To my understanding detonation
at
>WOT is caused by amount of total timing and detonation at part throtle is
>caused by amount of vacuum advance. My detonation is happenig at part
throtle
>(cruise) and goes away as soon as I either let the throtle go or lightly
press
>on it. I have no detonation at WOT and I'm not using a vaccum advance so
how
>can I controll part throtle detonation? Any inputs would be appreciated and
>please feel free to correct me on any incorrect information. One last note
of
>information, the HEI dist. was picked up at a local junk yard but was
working
>fine previously on the same vehicle and I'm using the magnetic pickup to
>trigger it.
>
>Eddie      72 Cutlass conv 4spd
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 16:25:13 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Forsale in JWO for the big car guys

1966 Olds Dynamic 88, 4door,white, 425 with a "4 speed", original owner, New
Mexico, asking 3,500 obo. 505-864-9146...my dad has a 66 Starfire with a 4 spd
and I thought that was rare. Harry Mager NJ 
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">1973 Olds Cutlass
4554speed</A>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 15:37:44 -0600
From: "Joe Centanni" <jacentan@crown.icongrp.com>
Subject: 9 motors again

I've emailed both Hurst and GM(oldsmobile of course) to see if hopefully
they will get read by someone who could help us in our quest for
knowledge.................Damn I"ve started something haven't I or I"m just
crazy(go with crazy)
		Later
		Jeremy 87 442

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 15:54:42 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: NASCAR   [was: Re: READ ME: H**p the Olds Cause! ]

Master!!!
We hope not, 
Jeanne

- ----------
> From: Master Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: NASCAR   [was: Re: READ ME: H**p the Olds Cause! ]
> Date: Saturday, January 09, 1999 2:35 PM
> 
> #3 #1 at qualifying 33. Not in 99 though, so we hope...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 16:53:36 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: So Much for the Aftermarket (was: Bad Coil)

<< I dont think the coil guy is blasting MSD. He just wanted his car to run
right
 so he put the old coil on and she seems to run fine now. I am sure he has
 nothing against MSD. Give him a break [minor snip]. You guys are driving me
to drink Harry from NJ  >>

Some time ago I swapped the factory coil (still here) for an Accell Supercoil,
for which I had the audacity to put two holes through the firewall. As yet
have not bypassed the stock resistor wire (have not followed this thread, was
busy deleting others, could Factory resistor in line with MSD ballast resistor
be the prob??), as I am lazy, or spend too much time on project carbs rather
than addressing urgent needs, or some other flaw in my character, like helping
women in Arizona with their carburetors.......

Such a long, strange, and happy trip....
(NOT shovelling today, not that its not needed, just because...)

K

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 15:59:59 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: More electrical questions

Dan, 
Next move is when they blow up! shouldn't hiss, being overcharged.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
Ps Put an voltmeter across the batt terminals, anything more them 15.5 is
TOO much, start changing parts again, sorry, no good answer.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

- ----------
> From: Daniel R. Gerow <dgerow@coal.stonehill.edu>
> To: Oldsmobile List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: More electrical qestions
> Date: Saturday, January 09, 1999 3:06 PM
> 
> I'm on my 2nd new voltage regulator, 3rd Alternator, and 2nd battery in
> my '71 Cutlass.  Everything is fine now, except I've noticed one little
> thing;  Is it normal for a battery to hiss?  I just bought a brand new
> Die-Hard, and I've noticed a hissing noise coming from the top where the
> cell caps are.  Should I worry about this?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dan Gerow
> 
> '69 4-4-2
> '71 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 16:04:02 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: So Much for the Aftermarket (was: Bad Coil)

K, 
Don't need two resistors, try one.
Lou
PS Still shoveling, more tomorrow!!
PPS Jerry Garcia, have his t-shirt
- ----------
> From: KarlAune@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: So Much for the Aftermarket (was: Bad Coil)
> Date: Saturday, January 09, 1999 3:53 PM
> Some time ago I swapped the factory coil (still here) for an Accell
Supercoil,
> for which I had the audacity to put two holes through the firewall. As
yet
> have not bypassed the stock resistor wire (have not followed this thread,
was
> busy deleting others, could Factory resistor in line with MSD ballast
resistor
> be the prob??), as I am lazy, or spend too much time on project carbs
rather
> than addressing urgent needs, or some other flaw in my character, like
helping
> women in Arizona with their carburetors.......
> 
> Such a long, strange, and happy trip....
> (NOT shovelling today, not that its not needed, just because...)
> 
> K

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 16:47:28 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Forsale in JWO for the big car guys

Could that possibly be the old 4 speed hydromatic trans?
Todd Daenzer
All toys tucked away for the winter....

RARE73OLDS@aol.com wrote:

> 1966 Olds Dynamic 88, 4door,white, 425 with a "4 speed", original owner, New
> Mexico, asking 3,500 obo. 505-864-9146...my dad has a 66 Starfire with a 4 
spd
> and I thought that was rare. Harry Mager NJ
> <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">1973 Olds Cutlass
> 4554speed</A>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 17:04:11 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: More electrical questions

You dont have any snakes where you live do you? Because if it starts rattling
RUN!! RUN FAST AS YOU CAN!!    Just kidding. listen to Briggs

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 17:06:26 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Forsale in JWO for the big car guys

No its a 4spd manual trans and it was available as orig equip. if you wanted
it that way.. very rare car....66 big cars had the turbo 400 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 18:08:38 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 1 1/4" Front Sway Bars

On Sat, 9 Jan 1999, mbloomer wrote:
> I used a sway bar out of a '76 station wagon.  Same 1 1/4" bar and the
> same clearance problem.  My solution was to just cut 1/2" from the
> original spacer sleeve to move the bar higher. 

Are you saying you're using 2 sleeves a side, stacked on top of each
other? I'd be afraid they'd collapse...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 17:12:00 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Forsale in JWO for the big car guys

Sorry - wasn't sure how long they carried the 4spd auto (had one in a '63 88).
Thanks for the info...
Todd Daenzer
Toys are tucked away for the winter...

RARE73OLDS@aol.com wrote:

> No its a 4spd manual trans and it was available as orig equip. if you wanted
> it that way.. very rare car....66 big cars had the turbo 400

------------------------------

Date: 9 Jan 99 15:16:53 MST
From: RSTOMN <restoman@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Speaker Location]

oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:
I was wondering what is the best speaker direction on a 72 442 convertible?
The factory 6x9 speakers were facing towards the trunk. With the top down
it was hard to hear the speakers. I know have Kenwood 210W speakers and I
was wondering would it be better to face them towards the rear seat or face
towards the trunk(like it was originally). Which would produce the better
sound, both with the top up and down. Has anyone experimented with this?

Pettrix@prodigy.net
>>>My 70 442 ragtop had 1 6x9 facing forward originally
and when I upgraded the stereo I added a 2nd speaker
in the same spot on the other side. There were 
mounting holes already there. It really thumps thru
the back seat!Of course the 100watt amp helps.  

RESTOMAN

____________________________________________________________________
More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://home.netscape.com/netcenter/mail

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 17:19:35 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: point shield

previously...

<<  On one of my old 98s the points and condenser are covered by a two piece
metal shield.  There is a label inside that bears a Delco part number and
states that the shield is there to minimize radio interference from the
ignition.  Of all my cars, only one has this shield, and it came with an AM
radio.>>

<< that cover is on my 73 Olds Cutlass S 455/4spd. I think they came on most
but
 as people would get there cars tuned they were never put back on. A real pain
 when it came time to check dwell readings >>

The points that came on my 1965 425 look like the are original ("points" fused
together, marginal contact between points and appropriate supports).
But I gots no shield so "some[where] in it youth or childhood, someone must
have done something good [to it]."

But then that part prolly was not used in the mid 1960's.

K

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 16:22:41 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 1 1/4" Front Sway Bars

Yes, two sleeves.  If your really worried just weld them together.  
unless they split at the seam there's no problem.  Since it's just
a straight vertical load, there's very little chance there's really
no problem.  If you wanted to get really into it you could find a 
piece of tubing the right diameter and cut it to length.  All it is
is a spacer and as long as the ends are square they will just
butt up against each other and be fine.  Had many hard miles
on mine with to problems.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>Are you saying you're using 2 sleeves a side, stacked on top of each
>other? I'd be afraid they'd collapse...
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 17:24:11 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Forsale in JWO for the big car guys

In a message dated 99-01-09 16:29:58 EST, you write:

<< 1966 Olds Dynamic 88, 4door,white, 425 with a "4 speed", original owner,
New
 Mexico, asking 3,500 obo. 505-864-9146...my dad has a 66 Starfire with a 4
spd
 and I thought that was rare. Harry Mager NJ 
 <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">1973 Olds Cutlass
 4554speed</A> >>

As far as I know it is.
For an optional 4-speed, prolly has the optional Starfire engine, 390 hp (in
1965 anyway), 10.5:1 compression (virtually flat pistons), early Rochester Q-
Jet...
Not to mention the forged crank.

just no variable vane torque converter in a 4-speed manual....

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 18:50:13 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: test

 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 17:59:18 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: point shield

K, 
Vettes used a full metal shield on dist. housings, they were plastic>
Lou

- ----------
> From: KarlAune@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: point shield
>K

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 19:36:13 -0800
From: "DAVID DUROCHER" <rallyed@driveninc.net>
Subject: roller rockers for edelbrock heads

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Does anybody know who makes roller rockers for edelbrock alluminum =
heads. I will be using stock valve covers without baffles. Mondello has =
a set of harland sharps for $399, and summit has harland sharps for =
$218. Does anybody know if there is a difference.      DAVE              =
                                                                         =
                                        =20

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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Does anybody know who makes =
roller=20
rockers for edelbrock alluminum heads. I will be using stock valve =
covers=20
without baffles. Mondello has a set of harland sharps for $399, and =
summit has=20
harland sharps for $218. Does anybody know if there is a=20
difference.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
DAVE&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
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&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
</FONT></STRONG></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BE3C07.51194200--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 20:06:28 EST
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Heat Pipe--Air Cleaner

Nearly done rounding up the parts to replace my open chrome air cleaner with
the original setup (71 4-4-2).  I'm having a lot of trouble with the shroud
that attaches to the exhaust manifold.  This part mates to the heat pipe that
mates to the snorkel.  After finding an original cleaner assy, I've found
almost all the other parts in catalogs, but not this shroud.  Any tips would
be appreciated.  Also, is there a difference in the air cleaner to valve cover
connections between a W-30 and a non W-30?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 20:09:01 EST
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Engine Fan

Who can help me with a question about the engine fan setup on a 71 4-4-2?  My
car currently has no plastic shroud over the fan. Should it?  I'm trying to
get back to 100% original in the engine compartment, but not sure what that is
when dealing with the fan.  Thanks in advance.

Scott
71 4-4-2 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 20:27:31 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine Fan

Does the car have a/c . If it does then it should have a shroud, if it doesnt
then it doesnt have to . Harry Mager  
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">1973 Olds Cutlass 455
4speed</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 20:27:32 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: So Much for the Aftermarket (was: Bad Coil)

In a message dated 1/9/99 2:49:21 PM Central Standard Time,
mbloomer@gateway.net writes:

<<  MSD sells the coil with and without the
 resistor but If you didn't use ~thier~ parts (resistor) as they say to 
 then the coil failure can't really be blamed on them. >>
He and I bought the Blaster 2 coils within in one week from each other...I
cannot speak for him, but I had the ballast resistor, that was supplied with
the coil, inline as instructed by the "owners pamplet".I also had one fail
after running it for only 3 months. I am currently having better luck with my
34 year old coil.

Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 20:32:09 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: roller rockers for edelbrock heads

In a message dated 1/9/99 6:45:08 PM Central Standard Time,
rallyed@driveninc.net writes:

<< Mondello has a set of harland sharps for $399, and summit has harland
sharps for $218. Does anybody know if there is a difference.  >>

HHaaahhaaaahhhhHHAAAHHHAHHAAHhahhahahahHAAAAAAA...Don't get me started on
Mondello and his "add-another-middle-man" pricing plans again!

Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 20:55:55 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: Re: Increasing Bolt Pattern

Are there any 4 3/4 full-size axles made for your car with the same spline?
Could you use the axles out of your original rear end?

You've probably already asked/answered this, just a thought.


Donny Arnold
w.d.arnold@lmco.com

72  Olds 442  
41 Chevy 
63 Chevy Truck




>Igor,
>Much simpler and easier to just redrill the axles to 4 3/4.  
>Should be fairly cheap for a good machine shop to do.

>Mike B

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 21:12:39 EST
From: CBanks97@aol.com
Subject: Olds Cutlass or 442

I'm looking for a glove box door for a 1969 Olds 442, or, if Cutlass is the
same, a Cutlass door. Color black. Good to excellent condition. Will pay fair
price.
Dan

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 21:21:24 EST
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: '70 vista cruiser parting

Wandering in one of my local (SoCal) yards today and found a complete but non-
running '70 Vista. Front is bashed in but tailgate and lights look good, rear
bumper looks like it'd be a good core. Trim, glass, interior bits all there.
Anybody need stuff? I can probably help you out. 
Car will be going to junk soon--things don't stay in this lot very long--so
let me know.

Email PRIVATELY to Peter at
coupeking@aol.com

and let me know your needs.

ps

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 21:26:47 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)

In a message dated 1/8/99 2:44:30 PM EST, tchurchill@draper.com writes:

<< A thousand pardons!  For some reason I thought _The Count of Monte Cristo_
 was written by Edgar Allen Poe.
 
 Just shows what a Dumas I am. >>

Don't take it so hard. Captain Kangaroo was neither a captain not a kangaroo.
And he didn't stop him from driving a Monte Cristo.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 21:28:53 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)

In a message dated 1/8/99 4:15:57 PM EST, tonwald@eta.k12.mn.us writes:

<< Why don't you guys just answer his question...and if you can't help him
 then shut the f*ck up.  I am sick of these wasted threads.    I find it
 funny that the people who don't know jack about cars are the ones who
 expect help with their stupid questions and then give guys who really want
 some help anwers like these >>
 
Hey Tony,
Lighten up. 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 19:56:45 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: roller rockers for edelbrock heads

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Here's a cheaper route for you. I have the alum heads and did MUCH
research from edelbrock and modello to find out what type rockers, stud
size, and lots of other crap that wasn't explained in the instructions
or with many talks to Edelbrock about what I'll need when installing
them. My hint. Use small block chevy or ford rockers. If you look at the
harland sharpe numbers. the "xyyz" x is the type of car he sells it for
the z is the style of rocker. Hence he has a small block rocker that is
the same as the olds rocker. I used Crane Cams 11747-16 number if I am
not mistaken and have 0 problems once they are properly adjusted. It's a
lot cheaper (about half price) than using harland sharpe which from what
I get from our local pro-stock are cheap rockers at a big ticket price.

My 2 cents
Ben

DAVID DUROCHER wrote:

>  Does anybody know who makes roller rockers for edelbrock alluminum
> heads. I will be using stock valve covers without baffles. Mondello
> has a set of harland sharps for $399, and summit has harland sharps
> for $218. Does anybody know if there is a difference.      DAVE



- --------------61ACB78372C579A758C067D4
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<HTML>
<BODY BGCOLOR="#FFFFFF">
Here's a cheaper route for you. I have the alum heads and did MUCH research
from edelbrock and modello to find out what type rockers, stud size, and
lots of other crap that wasn't explained in the instructions or with many
talks to Edelbrock about what I'll need when installing them. My hint.
Use small block chevy or ford rockers. If you look at the harland sharpe
numbers. the "xyyz" x is the type of car he <U>sells</U> it for the z is
the style of rocker. Hence he has a small block rocker that is the same
as the olds rocker. I used Crane Cams 11747-16 number if I am not mistaken
and have 0 problems once they are properly adjusted. It's a lot cheaper
(about half price) than using harland sharpe which from what I get from
our local pro-stock are cheap rockers at a big ticket price.

<P>My 2 cents
<BR>Ben

<P>DAVID DUROCHER wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>&nbsp;<B><FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>Does
anybody know who makes roller rockers for edelbrock alluminum heads. I
will be using stock valve covers without baffles. Mondello has a set of
harland sharps for $399, and summit has harland sharps for $218. Does anybody
know if there is a difference.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
DAVE</FONT></FONT></B></BLOCKQUOTE>
&nbsp;
</BODY>
</HTML>

- --------------61ACB78372C579A758C067D4--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 21:55:57 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: So Much for the Aftermarket (was: Bad Coil)

 A final comment then I think this thread can end.  As for the resistor, the
MSD techs said, via e-mail, my stock resistance wire was sufficient if the
voltage at the positive terminal of the coil was "in the area" of  7- 9
volts with the engine running. If it was, I was specifically told I did not
need the MSD resistor.  I met the above conditions so I omitted the ballast
resistor.  I did this based on the specific guidance from the MSD techs, not
my own hunch, theory, opinion, or guess.  I don't mean to give MSD a bad
rap.  I still think they're a good company with fine products and good
people.  I just happened to get a bad item.  No hard feelings.  The main
point I wanted to make is not that MSD is junk, because they're not, but
that even relatively new parts should not be overlooked when troubleshooting
a problem.  Another lesson is that stock parts aren't junk, either.
Finally, using aftermarket hi-po parts doesn't guarantee trouble-free
performance.  Enough said, I'll shut up now.
- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 21:28:29 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: A/C conversion

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Guru's,
After a cruise in my 68 tonight in 15 degree weather I'm
convinced that something has to be done with the heater.
I'm not worried about keeping the car original, so cutting
is not a big deal, though I would like to stay away from
obvious hacking.  My question is would converting the
car (non A/C) to factory A/C be fairly straight forward or
is it a real pain to get it to work correctly?  I have converted
A bodies from A/C to non but have never gone the=20
other way.  I know there are different holes in the firewall
and I will have to make a plate but that should be covered
up by the A/C housing so not a big deal.  Will the A/C=20
controls fit in the hole I have in my dash?  I understand the
parts I will have to get (firewall boxes, compressor, brackets,
control panel, dash pad, vents, ducts, condensor, evaporator,
etc) but will it all bolt in fairly easy or would I be better off to
go with one of the aftermarket setups from vintage air or=20
air-tiques?  Any comments or opinions would be appreciated,
especially from someone who has done this before.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme


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<HEAD>

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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Guru's,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>After a cruise in my 68 tonight in 15 degree =
weather=20
I'm</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>convinced that something has to be done with =
the=20
heater.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>I'm not worried about keeping the car =
original, so=20
cutting</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>is not a big deal, though I would like to =
stay away=20
from</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>obvious hacking.&nbsp; My question is would =
converting=20
the</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>car (non A/C) to factory A/C be fairly =
straight forward=20
or</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>is it a real pain to get it to work =
correctly?&nbsp; I=20
have converted</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>A bodies from A/C to non but have never gone =
the=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>other way.&nbsp; I know there are different =
holes in=20
the firewall</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>and I will have to make a plate but that =
should be=20
covered</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>up by the A/C housing so not a big =
deal.&nbsp; Will the=20
A/C </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>controls fit in the hole I have in my =
dash?&nbsp; I=20
understand the</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>parts I will have to get (firewall boxes, =
compressor,=20
brackets,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>control panel, dash pad, vents, ducts, condensor, evaporator,</DIV>
<DIV>etc) but will it all bolt in fairly easy or would I be better off =
to</DIV>
<DIV>go with one of the aftermarket setups from vintage air or </DIV>
<DIV>air-tiques?&nbsp; Any comments or opinions would be =
appreciated,</DIV>
<DIV>especially from someone who has done this before.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>Mike B<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:mbloomer@gateway.net">mbloomer@gateway.net</A><BR>ICQ#=20
19113713<BR>72 Cutlass S (RIP)<BR>68 Cutlass=20
Supreme<BR></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1711
*********************************

