Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1742


oldsmobile-digest     Saturday, January 30 1999     Volume 01 : Number 1742



Getting my Toro tomorrow!!!
Re: Priming and an idea(Was Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding /  Priming)
Non Olds
Re: 73 H/O
internal regulator
Re: Priming and an idea(Was Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming)
answer Intern Regul
Re: Priming and an idea(Was Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming)
Re: Priming and an idea(Was Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding /  Priming)
Ram Air Hood - Repro- info
Re: Engine Detailing
Re: Priming and an idea(Was Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming)
Re: Ram Air Hood - Repro- info
Re: test (delete)
Re: 73 H/O
Re: Priming and an idea
Re: 73 H/O
Danbury Mint
Crank Interchange
FS: More new stuff
Re: Ram Air Hood - Repro- info
Re: Crank Interchange
Re: Ram Air Hood - Repro- info
Have 2 Olds Convertibles......
Harmonic Balancer
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1741
Re: More new stuff
85 Cutlass question
Re: 73 H/O
Re: 73 H/O
RE: Exhaust System Suggestions
Re: 73 H/O
Re: Ram Air Hood - Repro- info
Re: Have 2 Olds Convertibles......
Re: Have 2 Olds Convertibles......
RE: Exhaust System Suggestions
RE: Make an 85 Cutlass 350 a 4 speed car?
USED HEADERS
Re: used headers needed!/List size
Re: Vaseline Talk etc.
Re: USED HEADERS
Re: USED HEADERS
Re: Priming and an idea(Was Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming)
Re: Vaseline Talk etc.
th200c swap
Re: th200c to th200-4r swap ?s
Re: used headers needed!/List size
Re: th200c to th200-4r swap ?s
Re: USED HEADERS
Re:One key for whole car
Re: Priming and an idea(Was Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming)
Mime-Version: 1.0
Looking for 70 OAI hood in AZ.
Re: USED HEADERS
q's about ram-air hood....
Re: Ram Air Hood - Repro- info
Re: q's about ram-air hood....

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 18:14:25 EST
From: StepHydro@aol.com
Subject: Getting my Toro tomorrow!!!

Hey, It's finally happening!!!

I've been lounging around these two lists for about 6 months, asking dumb
questions, contributing when I can (I was SpeedCom for most of the journey).
I've been helped a lot by various members, Joe P., Omega Man, and others.

Well, I found my car, a 1968 Toro. I'm going to pick it up tomorrow. It is
definitely a candidate for restoration (read: *not* cherry) but seems to be
solid.

Funny, I got my first car in 1961...had a lot of new ones, but I'm as excited
about this as if I were getting a new Jaguar.

I'll report back when "Cincinnatus Max" is a part of the family. Pictures to
follow.

Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 16:35:27 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Priming and an idea(Was Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding /  
Priming)

StepHydro@aol.com wrote:
> 
<snip description of a lubing system>
> 
> If you live near a surplus store, all this junk can be bought for $50. New, 
it
> will run amybe $400.

Do you have a diagram by any chance?  I am interested in this idea and I would
like to see how other people have implemented it.  One of the big gotcha's that
I can see is making sure that it was not going to fail and dump all the oil out
on the ground (blown line, rusted out tank, etc.).  Considering that these
engines last up to, and over, 200K without this system it would be interesting
to see what they would do with it.

It would be very interesting to implement a system within the oil pan (use an
enlarged pan).  Have the solenoid between the pump and the block, adjust the
pickup tube to be to compensate.  If the holding tank ever sprang a leak the
oil would dump back into the pan.

As far as the idling thing I think it may have more to do with projecting a
"green" image and discouraging wasting fuel.  I have read of studies on 2 stoke
engines showing that allowing a 5 minute warm up doubled the life span.  Of
course that's oranges to apples but I still like to give my vehicles a couple
of minutes before moving despite what the experts say.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 17:38:35 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Non Olds

General:
Saw you on the tube today, AMC channel, needed inspiration, emission
testing starts shortly.
Master Lou
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 18:46:43 EST
From: DrkSole96@aol.com
Subject: Re: 73 H/O

In a message dated 1/29/99 11:03:30 AM Central Standard Time,
RmeCbtEngr@aol.com writes:

<<  I just aquired a 73 H/O  and need some help aquiring info for restoration
,
 the car is complete except for air cleaner and hood ornament , im looking for
 pictures and a way to decipher the  VIN, 
  unfortunately  the build sheet is no longer in the car , ALSO  did this car
 come with a full vinly top or has this been added , im the 2nd owner  
  >>

There are pics of tow H/O's, one white, one black, in the April/May issue of
Muscle Car Review, 1-800-429-0106 to order.  I can decode the VIN, I've got a
copy of the 73 Cutlass Assembly Manual.
The car's only came with a half-vinyl top, and had a quarter window that was
unique to the H/O.

DrkSole96@aol.com
73 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 16:44:53 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: internal regulator

Who can recal or knows where the info is on setting up the internally
regulated alternator? I have it in, but need to know the right plugs to
jump so I don't blow this thing up... The plugs I'm refering to are from
the old external regulator.

Thanks, Ben

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 17:49:39 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Priming and an idea(Was Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / 
Priming)

Dorian:
Starting is the hardest on the engine, idling is second, unless you run
Daytona @ 8000revs for 500 miles, no flame intended or implied. Don't
really know if any of those additives really work, no one has done
comprehensive testing, (that I have seen or read). Back up electric oil
pump seems like a good thing, may have used those somwhere, don't know.
Master Lou
lbiggs@intertek.net


- ----------
> From: DYeager535@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Priming and an idea(Was Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine
Rebuilding / Priming)
> Date: Friday, January 29, 1999 3:25 PM
> 
>       Del, I don't know if startup is actually the hardest on an engine.
(not
> after a complete rebuild, just day to day) I know I'm digging a hole here
for
> everyone to push me into, and I'm not trying to make enemies or anthing,
but
> looking in a newer car owners manual, it states idling is the hardest on
an
> engine, and that if you are going to be stopped for a minute or more, to
shut
> the car off, so as not to idle as long. I have no clue how idling can be
worse
> than starting though..maybe not as much cooling for the motor as when
moving?
> Or maybe the oil pump isn't moving as much oil around....Perhaps they are
> figuring with the newer oils startup isn't bad (or as bad) due to the oil
> still clinging to the parts. I don't know, but that is the only time I
have
> seen any reference by a factory manual about anything like that..never
seen
> anything except by the Slick 50 type lube companies saying startup is bad
for
> your motor. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 16:51:31 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: answer Intern Regul

- --------------4694B5612F57D6FB3FE99519
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

the answer is here:
http://pw2.netcom.com/~gnenad/alternator.html


Ben

- --------------4694B5612F57D6FB3FE99519
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML>
the answer is here:
<BR><A HREF="http://pw2.netcom.com/~gnenad/alternator.html
">http://pw2.netcom.com/~gnenad/alternator.html</A>
<BR><A HREF="http://pw2.netcom.com/~gnenad/alternator.html"></A>&nbsp;

<P>Ben</HTML>

- --------------4694B5612F57D6FB3FE99519--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 19:01:35 EST
From: StepHydro@aol.com
Subject: Re: Priming and an idea(Was Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / 
Priming)

In a message dated 99-01-29 18:35:16 EST, you write:

> One of the big gotcha's that
>  I can see is making sure that it was not going to fail and dump all the oil
> out
>  on the ground (blown line, rusted out tank, etc.). 

Well, making oil lines and components that do not fail is sort of common to
the aircraft industry, hence the suggestion about a surplus source. Use good
stuff and implement it properly.

Put it in the main oil system and it plugs up, you are in big trouble. It is
far better to think of this as an auxiliary system.

I don't have a schematic. Please go back and read the earlier post and try to
draw it out. If that doesn't work, let me know and i'll see if I can get
something to you.

I don't think they are really necessary or even useful on an sutomotive
engine. You said it just right...an engine that lives for 200K+ miles without
one.....

Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 17:15:03 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Priming and an idea(Was Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding /  
Priming)

StepHydro@aol.com wrote:
 
<snip>
> 
> I don't have a schematic. Please go back and read the earlier post and try to
> draw it out. If that doesn't work, let me know and i'll see if I can get
> something to you.

I was wondering if it used flexible metal lines and mounts to the frame, inner
fenders, firewall or if it uses metal lines and is bolted to the side of the
block, the size of the tank, the method to drain tank when changing oil, etc. 
Since I'm not really that keen on doing it please don't spend any time
looking.  Just curious that's all.

<snip>
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 18:17:41 -0600 (CST)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Kevin D. Wood)
Subject: Ram Air Hood - Repro- info

Has anybody on the list purchased a reproduction ram air hood from Year
One,
Tamraz's, The Parts Place (Illinois) or anybody
else?  I see them in catalogs anywhere from
$400 to around $450 and I am wondering about
the quality of these hoods.  I did get to take a 
very close look at one at a swap meets and they are very nice and
sturdy- plenty of weight
to them.  The detail is nice also.  Anyway- I
bought the pins, some lighter tension springs
and all the mounting hardware a few years ago,
and this spring I am going to buy this hood unless somebody can tell me
why not...

I just wondered how these things hold up after
a couple of years.  I want to make sure that 
engine heat- or sunlight for that matter don't
cause the hood to warp or whatever.

I have a 1972 Cutlass Supreme with a rebuilt
'68 455 and TH400.  Also added a posi from
a (sorry) GTO...  3.55 gears.  I got a repro 
spoiler on the rear- which looks great.  I just
think this thing needs the ram-air hood even though it won't be
functional.  I imagine I will
be very thrilled when I get to turn those hood
pins for the first time.

Sorry for the long message- but you have to
be passionate about an Olds!

Kevin D. Wood
Hartford, WI
Dr-Olds@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 19:24:43 EST
From: Dizyizy1@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine Detailing

I suggest dont use a .030 ground on the crankshaft... I ran a mondello speced
455 out at houston raceway park and was using a cast not "N" crank turned .030
and spun a bearing at 5000 during burnout..

I raced it for a while though and maybe it was ready to go anyway...Ok here
the deal...If you turn a crank 10-10 and spin the bearing  occasionally it
will not be so bad that you cant re-turn the crank  to a little more an re-
install bearings...but at .030 your talking about less pof the hard crank and
more of a soft metal.,..stick with a .010 turn that way you have more crank
and if you spin a bearing turnit if you can....Mile it and see if the machine
shop says you can...personally I wouldnt runa .030 without Restictor from
Mondello pressed into the mains and oil restited pushrods...Olds have a
tendancy to cover the vavletrain with oil and leave none done below...my 2
cents worth ya know   Good luck

Sanford

1988 Royal Broughm
1984 StarFire Sx
1973 Omega
1986 Omega 
1970 Cutlass S 350
1970 Cutlass Supreme (455 motor stuffed in for bracket racing)
1972 Cutlass (350 mondello speced for bracket)
1968 Cutlass
1969  Cutlass 
1976 Cutlass S  350  swivel seated 
1970 Delta 88 455

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 19:26:11 EST
From: StepHydro@aol.com
Subject: Re: Priming and an idea(Was Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / 
Priming)

In a message dated 99-01-29 19:14:17 EST, you write:

> I was wondering if it used flexible metal lines and mounts to the frame, 
> inner
>  fenders, firewall or if it uses metal lines and is bolted to the side of
the
>  block, the size of the tank, the method to drain tank when changing oil,
etc.
>  
>  Since I'm not really that keen on doing it please don't spend any time
>  looking. 


Mounting/piping could be either, but most I've seen have flexible braided
hoses and an accumulator hard mounted on the body. Accumulators are generally
.5 liter or larger. Only a few ounces are required to wet the engine. To drain
the acc for oil changing, just push the button to the solenoid valve.

Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 19:39:33 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: Ram Air Hood - Repro- info

In a message dated 1/29/1999 7:18:58 PM Eastern Standard Time, Dr-
Olds@webtv.net writes:

<< The detail is nice also.  Anyway- I bought the pins, some lighter tension
springs
 and all the mounting hardware a few years ago, and this spring I am going to
buy this hood unless somebody can tell me why not... >>


Well.......   I bought one from Year One a year or two ago.  It is of good
quality, and fit, although poor, is in line with original hoods.  Mine is on a
72, I have noticed the 70 hoods seem to fit better (both original and repro.)
then the 71-72's.  The hood came poorly packaged, and therefore mildly
damaged.  It also lacks provisions for the original hood latch. I cut a hood
latch brace from a junk metal hood and installed it in my repro hood.  I am
not using the spring that pushed the hood up when you pop it.  I finished and
painted my hood only to find, 6 months later, that the hood was not fully
cured when I received it.  The Fiberglas matting pattern has shown up in the
paint, ARGH!!   I do believe however that once a block it out (again) and
paint it (again) that it will hold up fine.  If I were to do it again, I think
I would get a hood from U.S. Body source in Fla.  While they are not exact
repro's (the underside does not look like factory) they are made to use the
original latch.

Hope this helps!
Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 19:45:56 -0500
From: "Erik Gertsen" <ainode@frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: test (delete)

....you would have included somthing interesting.
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, January 29, 1999 3:44 PM
Subject: test (delete)


>This has only been a test. Had it been an actual emergency.......
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 19:46:58 EST
From: W451973@aol.com
Subject: Re: 73 H/O

I think I might be able to help you with this, I have one sitting in my
garage. If you want to email me privately Ill decode the info for you. I will
need All of the information off the cowl tag. Its under the hood on the
passenger side up by the windsheild. I will need all of the information
exactly how it appears on the tag, along with the vin number if you want that
decoded also. What color combonation is it? The air cleaner will be easy to
get, its nothing special unless it has the L-77 engine, then youll have a
problem. This had a dual snorkel wich was only available on the L-77 in 73
only. Where are you from?
Dennis                   w451973@aol.com
73 HURSTOLDS
74 CUTLASS S
77 442 RACE CAR PROJECT
BTW      take notice of my email address: w45 is the option code for the
HURSTOLDS in 73                                          

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 18:57:48 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@minspring.com>
Subject: Re: Priming and an idea

Actually Moroso makes 2 different accumulators.  One is a 3 qt ($185)
and the other is a 1.5 qt ($60).  The electric soleniod for remote operation
is $96.  You either have to make or buy a remote oil filter adapter to plumb
it in.  Basically all your talking for the Moroso acc. is a spacer so that
the
main oil passage after the filter has a "T" in it which runs back to acc.
Then
you just plumb it with std AN fittings and braided hose for durability.  You
can mount it anywhere you want, though is usually inside the drivers
compartment in racing applications.  As far as automotive applications,
there's not much use for it unless you like the prelubing feature (would be
a good idea on cars that are rarely driven, but on daily driver's probably
not much effect).  If your doing some serious racing then you'll have a
dry sump which wouldn't need it but if you have to run a wet sump due to
class restrictions or it's your street car it works fine.  I would push my
72 hard enough to uncover the pickup and loose oil pressure even with
the baffled pan, so I was seriously considering the accumulator since it
would supply the oil press for those few seconds.

As far as size the 3 qt version is about 2' long and 3 to 4 inches in
diameter.  I seem to remember the last one I installed said to mount
it almost level but you could contact Moroso for more info.  You can mount
it anywhere you can run a line to, but the closer to the motor the better
since
it will react faster and decrease the amount of oil in the system.  To drain
the
tank just open the valve with the engine off and wait for the oil to drain
back to the pan.  Like I said, it's only really worth it if you push your
car hard
but it is cheap insurance against draining the pan at high rpm.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

>
>I was wondering if it used flexible metal lines and mounts to the frame,
inner
>fenders, firewall or if it uses metal lines and is bolted to the side of
the
>block, the size of the tank, the method to drain tank when changing oil,
etc.
>Since I'm not really that keen on doing it please don't spend any time
>looking.  Just curious that's all.
>
><snip>
>--
>
>Cliff Simpson
>mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
>'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
>http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 20:01:38 EST
From: RmeCbtEngr@aol.com
Subject: Re: 73 H/O

thanks for the answer on the vinly top , 
heres the vin : 3G37U3M398276
any sites online with pictures that you know of ?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 19:10:10 -0600
From: steven@purplemonkey.com (Steven Saraceno)
Subject: Danbury Mint

Just received a mailer from the Danbury mint for a 69 judge, does anyone
know if they have the 70 W-30 out yet?

Steven
70 W-30 convertible

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 18:24:26 -0800
From: "Tim Wurtz" <tropical@micron.net>
Subject: Crank Interchange

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Does the crank out of a '64 olds 330 motor interchange with the 403? =
This crank I understand is Forged vs. the cast in the 403. Need to know =
if the balance would be the same as well as journals etc. being the =
same. Thanks Tim Wurtz



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<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Does the crank out of a '64 olds 330 =
motor=20
interchange with the 403? This crank I understand is Forged vs. the cast =
in the=20
403. Need to know if the balance would be the same as well as journals =
etc.=20
being the same. Thanks Tim Wurtz</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 20:24:39 -0500
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: FS: More new stuff

Hello everyone,

	We have some more neat things that have arrived. Here they are.

66-67 Fan Shroud (mint original, w/brackets) $100.00
67 Cutlass Grille (very nice)  $45.00
67 442/Cutlass Trunk Panel Molding (nice, not mint)  $90.00
67 RH Tail Light Assm (nice not mint)  $50.00
67 442/Cutlass Supreme Wheel Well Moldings (mint)  $200.00 set
66-67 Jack Assm (non SSI type)  $40.00
67 Quarter Panel Moldings (rear pot metal, NO pits, chrome good)  $85.00 pr
68-69 14x6 SSII Trim Rings (very nice originals)  $80.00 set
70 W-31 Intake Manifold (mint)  $600.00
70 Cutlass Rear Bumper (nice)  $135.00

66 Cutlass Post Coupe (parting or sell whole) 330, 2bbl or 4bbl, 60,000
miles, jetaway, nice interior (black bench w/armrest), new headliner,
recent carpet, car has been primered from the doors back, new windshield,
fenders and hood need to be finished, good tires 14x5.5 front, 15x7 rear
steel wheels with dog dish caps, comes with some extra parts like big block
headers, fuel pressure gauge, racing fuel pump, 67 dual brakes Asking $1000
OBO. Will add 66 442 parts not included in initial deal like (tail lights,
grille, trunk panel, fenders w/vents etc...) if wanted to convert to a 442
clone. 

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts 
(757)474-0869 
 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 20:26:32 EST
From: "Norm Baier" <nbaier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Ram Air Hood - Repro- info

I seem to recall Jim Chermack of C&M Classic parts posting a while 

back that they might possibly be getting more exact repros of the ram 

air hoods this year, complete with bracing like the originals... am I 

remembering this right?

Norm Baier



- ----Original Message Follows----
From:	Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Kevin D. Wood)
Date:	Fri, 29 Jan 1999 18:17:41 -0600 (CST)
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Ram Air Hood - Repro- info
Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

Has anybody on the list purchased a reproduction ram air hood from 

Year
One,
Tamraz's, The Parts Place (Illinois) or anybody
else?  I see them in catalogs anywhere from
$400 to around $450 and I am wondering about
the quality of these hoods.  I did get to take a 
very close look at one at a swap meets and they are very nice and
sturdy- plenty of weight
to them.  The detail is nice also.  Anyway- I
bought the pins, some lighter tension springs
and all the mounting hardware a few years ago,
and this spring I am going to buy this hood unless somebody can tell 

me
why not...

I just wondered how these things hold up after
a couple of years.  I want to make sure that 
engine heat- or sunlight for that matter don't
cause the hood to warp or whatever.

I have a 1972 Cutlass Supreme with a rebuilt
'68 455 and TH400.  Also added a posi from
a (sorry) GTO...  3.55 gears.  I got a repro 
spoiler on the rear- which looks great.  I just
think this thing needs the ram-air hood even though it won't be
functional.  I imagine I will
be very thrilled when I get to turn those hood
pins for the first time.

Sorry for the long message- but you have to
be passionate about an Olds!

Kevin D. Wood
Hartford, WI
Dr-Olds@webtv.net




______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 20:29:56 -0500
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Crank Interchange

Tom

        They will interchange but, you will have to use the 67 and older
flexplate to bolt onto the crank. They have the same tooth count so there are
no other problems. Re-balance the assm when you do this swap. All journals are
the same.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts

At 09:24 PM 1/29/99 , you wrote: 
>
> Does the crank out of a '64 olds 330 motor interchange with the 403? This
> crank I understand is Forged vs. the cast in the 403. Need to know if the
> balance would be the same as well as journals etc. being the same. Thanks Tim
> Wurtz
>  
>  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 20:34:14 -0500
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Ram Air Hood - Repro- info

To Norm and everyone

        We are trying to accomplish this feat. It's been very painful. Yes we
are going to get them right with the steel liner. Cost we're shooting for is
$899.00 new. From the speed (HA!) that were getting from GM and the
manufacturer it looks like we might have them for Fall Charlotte if we're
lucky. Was hoping to bring a few to Dallas this year. Will keep you all
informed on what's happening. Don't ask Santa for one yet!

Thanks
Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts

At 08:26 PM 1/29/99 , you wrote:
>I seem to recall Jim Chermack of C&M Classic parts posting a while 
>
>back that they might possibly be getting more exact repros of the ram 
>
>air hoods this year, complete with bracing like the originals... am I 
>
>remembering this right?
>
>Norm Baier
>
>
>
>----Original Message Follows----
>From:  Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Kevin D. Wood)
>Date:  Fri, 29 Jan 1999 18:17:41 -0600 (CST)
>To:    oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Ram Air Hood - Repro- info
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
>Has anybody on the list purchased a reproduction ram air hood from 
>
>Year
>One,
>Tamraz's, The Parts Place (Illinois) or anybody
>else?  I see them in catalogs anywhere from
>$400 to around $450 and I am wondering about
>the quality of these hoods.  I did get to take a 
>very close look at one at a swap meets and they are very nice and
>sturdy- plenty of weight
>to them.  The detail is nice also.  Anyway- I
>bought the pins, some lighter tension springs
>and all the mounting hardware a few years ago,
>and this spring I am going to buy this hood unless somebody can tell 
>
>me
>why not...
>
>I just wondered how these things hold up after
>a couple of years.  I want to make sure that 
>engine heat- or sunlight for that matter don't
>cause the hood to warp or whatever.
>
>I have a 1972 Cutlass Supreme with a rebuilt
>'68 455 and TH400.  Also added a posi from
>a (sorry) GTO...  3.55 gears.  I got a repro 
>spoiler on the rear- which looks great.  I just
>think this thing needs the ram-air hood even though it won't be
>functional.  I imagine I will
>be very thrilled when I get to turn those hood
>pins for the first time.
>
>Sorry for the long message- but you have to
>be passionate about an Olds!
>
>Kevin D. Wood
>Hartford, WI
>Dr-Olds@webtv.net
>
>
>
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 18:34:59 -0800
From: "Tim Wurtz" <tropical@micron.net>
Subject: Have 2 Olds Convertibles......

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I have aquired two Oldsmobiles, Both are convertibles.=20

1. 1973 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Convertible
2. 1964 Oldsmobile Jetfire 88 Convertible
=20
I am either gonna part the cars or sell them as a whole.
Anyone Interested can contact me. Thanks Tim Wurtz

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have aquired two Oldsmobiles, Both =
are=20
convertibles. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>1. 1973 Oldsmobile Delta 88=20
Convertible</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>2. 1964 Oldsmobile Jetfire 88=20
Convertible</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I am either gonna part the cars or =
sell them as=20
a whole.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Anyone Interested can contact me. Thanks Tim=20
Wurtz</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01BE4BB6.135F5B20--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 18:38:57 -0800
From: "Tim Wurtz" <tropical@micron.net>
Subject: Harmonic Balancer

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Also forgot to ask about the harmonic balancer. Is it Interchangeable =
with all the small blocks? Can I use one off the 403 or 350 for the 330 =
crank? Thanks Tim Wurtz

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Also forgot to ask about the =
harmonic balancer.=20
Is it Interchangeable with all the small blocks? Can I use one off the =
403 or=20
350 for the 330 crank? Thanks Tim Wurtz</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01BE4BB6.A128F6A0--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 20:52:30 EST
From: KSchrdrfan@aol.com
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1741

 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 20:57:17 -0500
From: "Dan" <dsm137@gti.net>
Subject: Re: More new stuff

Jim,
will the 67 wheel moldings go on the cutlass??
Dan.

- -----Original Message-----
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, January 29, 1999 8:28 PM
Subject: FS: More new stuff


>Hello everyone,
>
> We have some more neat things that have arrived. Here they are.
>
>66-67 Fan Shroud (mint original, w/brackets) $100.00
>67 Cutlass Grille (very nice)  $45.00
>67 442/Cutlass Trunk Panel Molding (nice, not mint)  $90.00
>67 RH Tail Light Assm (nice not mint)  $50.00
>67 442/Cutlass Supreme Wheel Well Moldings (mint)  $200.00 set
>66-67 Jack Assm (non SSI type)  $40.00
>67 Quarter Panel Moldings (rear pot metal, NO pits, chrome good)  $85.00 pr
>68-69 14x6 SSII Trim Rings (very nice originals)  $80.00 set
>70 W-31 Intake Manifold (mint)  $600.00
>70 Cutlass Rear Bumper (nice)  $135.00
>
>66 Cutlass Post Coupe (parting or sell whole) 330, 2bbl or 4bbl, 60,000
>miles, jetaway, nice interior (black bench w/armrest), new headliner,
>recent carpet, car has been primered from the doors back, new windshield,
>fenders and hood need to be finished, good tires 14x5.5 front, 15x7 rear
>steel wheels with dog dish caps, comes with some extra parts like big block
>headers, fuel pressure gauge, racing fuel pump, 67 dual brakes Asking $1000
>OBO. Will add 66 442 parts not included in initial deal like (tail lights,
>grille, trunk panel, fenders w/vents etc...) if wanted to convert to a 442
>clone.
>
>Jim Chermack
>C&M Classic Parts
>(757)474-0869
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 20:56:23 EST
From: KSchrdrfan@aol.com
Subject: 85 Cutlass question

Hi. I've never asked anything here before, but I'm sure I can get an answer
from all of you.
I have an 85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham. I know that it's been repainted,but the
vinyl top goes straight across under the rear window. Every other Cutlass I
have seen the top curves up with the window. Was this something factory, or
did they redo the top wrong?

Thanks

KS

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 21:07:13 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 73 H/O

The dual snorkel Air cleaner on the 73 Hurst Olds also came on the 73 Cutlass
"S" or Cutlass Supreme when you got the 455 with a 4spd. trans. The L77 is the
4speed 455 in an automatic. Olds did not have that engine available in an
automatic unless you got a Hurst Olds with the L77 W46 option.  Hot Rod Harry 
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">1973 Olds Cutlass 455
4speed</A> click on the blue to see. That same dual snorkel aircleaner came on
the 74 Hurst Olds W30s also...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 21:13:27 EST
From: Lou0118@aol.com
Subject: Re: 73 H/O

In a message dated 1/29/99 6:48:35 PM Eastern Standard Time, DrkSole96@aol.com
writes:

<< <<  I just aquired a 73 H/O  and need some help aquiring info for
restoration
 ,
  the car is complete except for air cleaner and hood ornament , im looking
for
  pictures and a way to decipher the  VIN, >>

Perhaps you can contact the Hurst Olds Club for info.  Here is their web site
- - 

http://www.hurstolds.com/

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 12:59:52 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Exhaust System Suggestions

>> Garnder Exaust, they have every muscle car exhaust system,
>> EXACTILY stock ones too, give em a call, sorry dont have their
>> number
> 
>They're on the web too, don't recall the URL off-hand though.

http://www.gardnerexhaust.com/

Having the name correctly spelled is the key.  :-)

Gardner Exhaust Systems
  2 Cedar Lane
  Rhinebeck, N.Y. 12572
  Phone: (914) 876-8117
  Fax: (914) 876-8117

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 21:17:56 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 73 H/O

The car was made in Lansing, all of them were. The motor is the standard 455
250 hp. UB engine sticker code..automatic turbo 400..(no high stall
convertor)... "J" heads and a single snorkel air cleaner 8.5 compression. Very
nice car!! any more questions check my site out and email me ..I have had 46
Olds musclecars and have tons of info...Hot Rod Harry 
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">1973 Olds Cutlass 455
4speed</A> click on the blue area

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 20:18:46 -0600 (CST)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Kevin D. Wood)
Subject: Re: Ram Air Hood - Repro- info

Thanks for the info Bill...  but now I have more
questions.  I have never owned a car with the
ram air hood so this will be an easy question for
anyone who has...  Did the original hoods have
the standard hood latch as well as the hold down chrome twist-pins?  I
guess I just assumed that the twist latches were all that  was needed.  

Also,  about 10 years ago, I ordered a hood 
from US Body Source and when I pulled it out of the box I was so
unimpressed that I put it
right back in the box and sent it back.  The hood was rather flimsy and
the scoops were not
even cut out.  I imagine that the hood I received
would be waving in the breeze had I kept it.  I also was poorly packaged
and arrived with crushed corners.  If they have improved this design
over the years, I am interested so I will 
check out that option too.  

Last note for now- do you know where these hoods (Year One type) are
drop shipped from?
Just curious if it's within the Midwest- like Chicago-ish...  

Thanks Olds Friends.
Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 21:21:19 -0500
From: "Erik Gertsen" <ainode@frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: Have 2 Olds Convertibles......

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where are you ansd how much for the jetfire?
thnaks
erik

  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Tim Wurtz=20
  To: Oldsmobile Group=20
  Sent: Friday, January 29, 1999 9:34 PM
  Subject: Have 2 Olds Convertibles......


  I have aquired two Oldsmobiles, Both are convertibles.=20
  =20
  1. 1973 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Convertible
  2. 1964 Oldsmobile Jetfire 88 Convertible
  =20
  I am either gonna part the cars or sell them as a whole.
  Anyone Interested can contact me. Thanks Tim Wurtz

- ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01BE4BCD.501FE900
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 5.00.0910.1309"' name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>where are you ansd how much for the=20
jetfire?<BR>thnaks</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>erik</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----=20
  <DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A=20
  href=3D"mailto:tropical@micron.net" title=3Dtropical@micron.net>Tim =
Wurtz</A>=20
  </DIV>
  <DIV><B>To:</B> <A href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca"=20
  title=3Doldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>Oldsmobile Group</A> </DIV>
  <DIV><B>Sent:</B> Friday, January 29, 1999 9:34 PM</DIV>
  <DIV><B>Subject:</B> Have 2 Olds Convertibles......</DIV></DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have aquired two Oldsmobiles, =
Both are=20
  convertibles. </FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>1. 1973 Oldsmobile Delta 88=20
  Convertible</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>2. 1964 Oldsmobile Jetfire 88=20
  Convertible</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I am either gonna part the cars or =
sell them=20
  as a whole.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Anyone Interested can contact me. Thanks Tim=20
  Wurtz</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0019_01BE4BCD.501FE900--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 21:22:47 -0500
From: "Erik Gertsen" <ainode@frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: Have 2 Olds Convertibles......

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WAIT!!!!!! the other one too please......  what condition are the panels =
on the 73? i need some panels for my 4 dr. i thint the fronts and the =
bumpers as well as the trim are the same.
plz get back to me.
Erik
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Tim Wurtz=20
  To: Oldsmobile Group=20
  Sent: Friday, January 29, 1999 9:34 PM
  Subject: Have 2 Olds Convertibles......


  I have aquired two Oldsmobiles, Both are convertibles.=20
  =20
  1. 1973 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Convertible
  2. 1964 Oldsmobile Jetfire 88 Convertible
  =20
  I am either gonna part the cars or sell them as a whole.
  Anyone Interested can contact me. Thanks Tim Wurtz

- ------=_NextPart_000_0024_01BE4BCD.84A2E740
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 5.00.0910.1309"' name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>WAIT!!!!!! the other one too =
please......&nbsp;=20
what condition are the panels on the 73? i need some panels for my 4 dr. =
i thint=20
the fronts and the bumpers as well as the trim are the =
same.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>plz get back to me.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Erik</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----=20
  <DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A=20
  href=3D"mailto:tropical@micron.net" title=3Dtropical@micron.net>Tim =
Wurtz</A>=20
  </DIV>
  <DIV><B>To:</B> <A href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca"=20
  title=3Doldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>Oldsmobile Group</A> </DIV>
  <DIV><B>Sent:</B> Friday, January 29, 1999 9:34 PM</DIV>
  <DIV><B>Subject:</B> Have 2 Olds Convertibles......</DIV></DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have aquired two Oldsmobiles, =
Both are=20
  convertibles. </FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>1. 1973 Oldsmobile Delta 88=20
  Convertible</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>2. 1964 Oldsmobile Jetfire 88=20
  Convertible</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I am either gonna part the cars or =
sell them=20
  as a whole.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>Anyone Interested can contact me. Thanks Tim=20
  Wurtz</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0024_01BE4BCD.84A2E740--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 20:37:36 -0600 (CST)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Kevin D. Wood)
Subject: RE: Exhaust System Suggestions

Andy- thanks for the exact information on
Gardner... I tried to search for it spelled both
ways but didn't have any luck.  I just checked out their webpage and
they look impressive.

Has anybody used their system?  Was wondering if they have optional
Aluminized pipe
and what kind of price range they get for a 
system...

Kevin D. Wood
72 Cutlass Supreme- 455 w/Duals

Thanks!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 21:52:52 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Make an 85 Cutlass 350 a 4 speed car?

http://www.g-body.org/tech/tranny/man_tranny.html
Go there and read about complexity of it.

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass (hibernating)
84 Calais ($200!)
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Martin
Thomas-WLTM07
Sent: Friday, January 29, 1999 10:15 AM
To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
Subject: Make an 85 Cutlass 350 a 4 speed car?


What does it take to make a 85 G-Body a 5 speed or 4 speed car?  I would
like to keep the 2.14 gears and then go with a wide ratio 4 speed.  It would
be much nicer driving!

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 20:04:09 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: USED HEADERS

Mee too.  If anyone has any used big-block headers to sell for cheap (as
long as they don't leak, I don't care about the shape as long as it is
reasonable).  I would like to custom-fit them to my '81 Delta's 455, even if
they have to be bent and shaped.  Really think that my exhaust (manifolds)
is holding the motor down at higher RPMs.  I am looking locally but no luck
yet.  Igor.

igor455@home.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 20:05:39 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: used headers needed!/List size

>And, for there being 574 members on this list, I sure don't see too many
>posts. I mean, sure there is a decent amount from day to day. But not
>like it could be. I guess maybe most of us like the whole "low list
>traffic" thing. But I just think it would be more interesting if we
>heard from at least 300 different members a day.


There is only that many members.  Ohhh, the good-old-days.  I don't like the
low-list traffic.  I have no problem with hitting DEL once a day.  Learned
TONS of stuff.  I agree about at least 300.  Igor.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 03:33:26 -0600
From: "Charles A. Dempsey" <cdemps@lsumc.edu>
Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk etc.

"Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com> wrote:

> Kind of the same. Except, with the drill, you have all the oil where
>you want it before anything even moves. When you crank the engine with
>the starter, all of those parts inside are moving with no oil until
>the pump primes and gets the oil there.

OK I see your point exactly, but I always apply a lot of oil to the
rockers/pushrods, cam, lifters, and oil on the crank and rod bearings.  

Hi,

I (and every engine builder I ever knew) assemble an engine with *lots*
of Lubriplate (or similar stuff). After the engine is installed, and oil
added, the engine is spun (plugs out) with the starter until the oil
pump picks up and the gauge shows pressure. Usually this takes only
20-30 seconds. The one exception was a '74 Scout (304 V-8) that wouldn't
pick up after four 30 second spins. We pulled the distributor and spun
the oil pump with an electric drill and it took an amazingly long time
for this pump to pick up. We didn't build that motor and never used that
particular builder again.

If there's no load on the engine (no compression), and the bearing
surfaces are well lubed, then it hardly matters that there's no oil
pressure for the short time it takes the pump to begin pumping. You
don't pull the distributor and spin the pump every time you change the
oil do you?

Just my $0.02,
Charles

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 22:13:30 -0500
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: USED HEADERS

Igor

        I have a used set of 455 headers for a 68-72 Cutlass. How's $20.00 plus
shipping to you. The are in good condition, not all rusted up.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts
(757)474-0869

At 10:04 PM 1/29/99 , you wrote:
>Mee too.  If anyone has any used big-block headers to sell for cheap (as
>long as they don't leak, I don't care about the shape as long as it is
>reasonable).  I would like to custom-fit them to my '81 Delta's 455, even if
>they have to be bent and shaped.  Really think that my exhaust (manifolds)
>is holding the motor down at higher RPMs.  I am looking locally but no luck
>yet.  Igor.
>
>igor455@home.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 22:16:01 -0500
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: USED HEADERS

Sorry everyone

        That was suppose to go private.

Jim Chermack

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 22:22:38 EST
From: OLDS44272@aol.com
Subject: Re: Priming and an idea(Was Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / 
Priming)

In a message dated 1/29/99 3:13:21 PM Eastern Standard Time,
rockman20@yahoo.com writes:

<< Which brings me to this
 question. (And if anyone makes something like this, I wan part of the
 revenue!!!) Since the hardest thing on an engine is at startup, why
 haven't they made something where as soon as you turn the key on, an
 electric pump pumps oil to all the necessary places and then shuts off
 when your engine starts to run or it senses oil pressure? This could
 also serve as a backup in case your oil pump ever failed. Pressure
 drops, pump kicks in, light on dash comes on telling you pump is bad
 but still keeps oil pressure so you can get to somewhere to fix it.  >>

            I do know that there is a oil pump made for turbo charged engined.
But it works in the opposite way. This oil pump is connected to the turbo.
When the ignition key is turned off, this pumps runs oil through the turbo for
a minute or to to help keep the turbo cool. I have a 90 Sunbird 2.0 with a
turbo. Normally on a turbo car, it is recommend that you let the car idle for
a bit before you shut you car off. I would this helps the turbo get full of
oil? Anyway, i have not seen this turbo pump, but then i have just started to
look for one.............SCOTT

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 22:24:17 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk etc.

the drill spinning the oil pump trick for a new motor has been used for years
and I have never had a problem......as for the taking the distributor and
spinning oil pump after an oil change that was a low blow to whom ever gave
the idea of the drill...They are just trying to help....lets see if you have a
musclecar and its sits for a couple of weeks do you take the valve covers off
and oil everything before you start her....or do you just crank and crank and
crank on dry cylinders until she starts ..or do you prime the carb and let her
fire up first shot to build oil pressure faster. Hot Rod Harry...I dont have
0.02 cents

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 19:26:42 -0800
From: andrewc@novell.uidaho.edu
Subject: th200c swap

Ha! Cracks me up! Better to run out of engine than to run out of 
road! Maybe I should be working on a flying Delorean!


Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 19:24:58 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: th200c to th200-4r swap ?s

<snip>
BTW - the th200-4r is listed as
an option for this car.
______________

Yuh, but 4.10 gears weren't. With a stock 307 you're gonna run 
outa engine
before you run outa road.

drc


Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 19:24:58 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: th200c to th200-4r swap ?s


Yuh, but 4.10 gears weren't. With a stock 307 you're gonna run 
outa engine
before you run outa road.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 19:26:42 -0800
From: andrewc@novell.uidaho.edu
Subject: Re: th200c to th200-4r swap ?s

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 18:51:00 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: th200c to th200-4r swap ?s

<snip>

- --------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -- - - Thanks. The 403 should come with the Th350.  This trans 
would be
good if you have 3.23 gears or higher (lower numerically), but since 
you
like cruise RPM, anything like 3.73s or 4.10s would make it rev like 
a
bitch.  You CAN still get this car (what is the price) and get the OD
trans.  Rebuilding an engine is NOT very costly (would likely be 
cheaper
then the trans for a good, mild motor) and would be a hell of an
improvement over the '84 307.
- -----------------------------------

Igor, It looks like I procrastinated too long on that one - it was a '77 
delta. Supposedly ran 'great' - they wanted $500 for it. 

I agree about the engine rebuild being cheaper than the tranny - I 
am looking at $825 in parts alone! This whole deal is going to set 
me back about $2k, including the rear end gear change....

...Andrew

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 22:30:56 EST
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: used headers needed!/List size

In a message dated 1/29/99 5:46:42 PM Eastern Standard Time,
creme1ma@cmich.edu writes:

<< 
 I am looking for a set of decent, used, cheap headers for a 70 A body
 with a small block. The Unit could sure use a pair after the whole carb,
 cam, intake thing happens.
  >>
Hi Matt
   I am parting out a 72 '442'   with a small block and headers, I've already
unbolted the exh pipes from the collectors and they came off easy so it
appears the headers will be fine. I will offer them to you fairly cheap, Hows
$50.00 plus shipping from Rhode Island ? Let  me know I can have them out next
week but could hold them for you if you like. I take all major credit cards

Everett  OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire

E&G Automotive
PO Box 16095 
Rumford, RI  02916
1-401-435-7139

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 20:39:13 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: th200c to th200-4r swap ?s

>Igor, It looks like I procrastinated too long on that one - it was a '77
>delta. Supposedly ran 'great' - they wanted $500 for it.


Too bad.  I am sure you can find another like it, though.

>I agree about the engine rebuild being cheaper than the tranny - I
>am looking at $825 in parts alone! This whole deal is going to set
>me back about $2k, including the rear end gear change....

Andrew,

Are you having the trans installed or are you doing it yourself.  If you are
doing it yourself, it might pay to get the stuff and wait a few moths before
you can afford to buy a remanufactured 350 or a 403 (probable approx.. $950
US), then rent a hoist, pull the 307 and trans and put your new motor and
trans back it.  I know it is a lot of money, stress, etc., to fork out at
once, but just brain-storming.  I wish I had 4.10s and OD with my 455, that
would be a wild ride (both for me and the trans).  Igor.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 20:40:18 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: USED HEADERS

I am going to make some header flanges for my 455 any body want a set.  The
more I make the cheaper they are. :-)   Also, I have a source for tubing to
build your own headers.  My friend owns a fab shop and builds allot of
headers and orders U bends by the dozens.

LP
- -----Original Message-----
From: Igor T. '81 DRB 455 <igor455@home.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, January 29, 1999 8:06 PM
Subject: USED HEADERS


>Mee too.  If anyone has any used big-block headers to sell for cheap (as
>long as they don't leak, I don't care about the shape as long as it is
>reasonable).  I would like to custom-fit them to my '81 Delta's 455, even
if
>they have to be bent and shaped.  Really think that my exhaust (manifolds)
>is holding the motor down at higher RPMs.  I am looking locally but no luck
>yet.  Igor.
>
>igor455@home.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 22:43:20 EST
From: OldsClub@aol.com
Subject: Re:One key for whole car

	The local lock smith re-keyed the truck lock in my 68 442 for $20.

Jim
68 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 21:56:02 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@minspring.com>
Subject: Re: Priming and an idea(Was Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / 
Priming)

Actually there is a better item out called a turbo timer.  HKS makes em
and so do others.  What it does is keeps the car idling after you pull the
key out for a specified length of time to cool the turbo (the oil is what
cools it) and then allows the vehicle to shut down after your already in the
house drinking a brew.  If you don't give the turbo the time to cool down
the oil supply and line will get hot enough to "coke up", basically the oil
turns into a solid and then oil flow is restricted to the turbo.  This
happens
over a period of time and leads to trashed turbo bearings.  Normally when
you buy a rebuilt turbo the rebuilder will not honor the warranty unless you
have a reciept for a new oil supply line, since this lack of oil will
quickly
trash the new turbo.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

>            I do know that there is a oil pump made for turbo charged
engined.
>But it works in the opposite way. This oil pump is connected to the turbo.
>When the ignition key is turned off, this pumps runs oil through the turbo
for
>a minute or to to help keep the turbo cool. I have a 90 Sunbird 2.0 with a
>turbo. Normally on a turbo car, it is recommend that you let the car idle
for
>a bit before you shut you car off. I would this helps the turbo get full of
>oil? Anyway, i have not seen this turbo pump, but then i have just started
to
>look for one.............SCOTT

------------------------------

Date: 29 Jan 99 20:59:55 MST
From: RSTOMN <restoman@netscape.net>
Subject: Mime-Version: 1.0

Looking for RAM_AIR hood for 70- 442.
In Arizona..............ANYBODY?????

RESTOMAN

____________________________________________________________________
More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://home.netscape.com/netcenter/mail

------------------------------

Date: 29 Jan 99 21:16:20 MST
From: RSTOMN <restoman@netscape.net>
Subject: Looking for 70 OAI hood in AZ.

Looking for RAM-AIR hood for 70-442.
Must be in AZ. so I can pick-up......ANYBODY????

RESTOMAN

____________________________________________________________________
More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://home.netscape.com/netcenter/mail

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 23:30:00 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: USED HEADERS

J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts wrote:
> 
> Igor
> 
>         I have a used set of 455 headers for a 68-72 Cutlass. How's $20.00 
plus
> shipping to you. The are in good condition, not all rusted up.

Wait a second, Jim!!!! Got any deals like THAT for me (except in sb
form)??????

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***********************
'70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
'73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
'75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 23:50:39 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: q's about ram-air hood....

i currently have a w-25 hood on my 70 442.  when i got the car the nose plate
where the emblems are located was not bolted to the hood.  when i got the
chrome pieces off another 70, i noticed my hood is missing the piece where the
3 bolts are supposed to go.  should there be some sort of metal in this place?
also there is a wire screen on the hood, does this belong here, or did
somebody add this?  i'm in search of a used upper air cleaner assembily.
anoyone got a resonably priced unit?  also is the lower half of the air
cleaner the same on non ram air cars?  thanx in advance

mikeytvb@aol.com
70 442 hc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 23:55:32 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: Ram Air Hood - Repro- info

In a message dated 1/29/1999 9:20:52 PM Eastern Standard Time, Dr-
Olds@webtv.net writes:

<<  Did the original hoods have the standard hood latch as well as the hold
down chrome twist-pins?  I guess I just assumed that the twist latches were
all that  was needed.   >>

Yep, they did.

<< I imagine that the hood I received would be waving in the breeze had I kept
it. >>

Did you get a street hood, or race hood??

Bill K 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 23:57:06 -0500
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: q's about ram-air hood....

Mike

        Yep. It should have a lip under there to bolt the hood tongue to. It
sounds like it's been wrecked and repaired. The screen is there to keep the big
things out of the aircleaner. As for the lid, we'll keep an eye out for ya!
Bottoms of the aircleaner are simular. There are differences between them.

Jim Chermack

At 11:50 PM 1/29/99 , you wrote:
>i currently have a w-25 hood on my 70 442.  when i got the car the nose plate
>where the emblems are located was not bolted to the hood.  when i got the
>chrome pieces off another 70, i noticed my hood is missing the piece where the
>3 bolts are supposed to go.  should there be some sort of metal in this place?
>also there is a wire screen on the hood, does this belong here, or did
>somebody add this?  i'm in search of a used upper air cleaner assembily.
>anoyone got a resonably priced unit?  also is the lower half of the air
>cleaner the same on non ram air cars?  thanx in advance
>
>mikeytvb@aol.com
>70 442 hc

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1742
*********************************

