Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1706


oldsmobile-digest      Thursday, January 7 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1706



Re: READ ME: Help the Olds Cause! send to: dmracing1@aol.com
Re: READ ME: Help the Olds Cause! send to: dmracing1@aol.com
Road Test
Slamming dmracing1@aol.com
Re: READ ME: Help the Olds Cause! send to: dmracing1@aol.com
Re: Road Test
RE: READ ME: Help the Olds Cause! send to: dmracing1@aol.com
Re: READ ME: Help the Olds Cause! send to: dmracing1@aol.com
Olds item on Ebay
Re: 15x10s on a Delta
Re: Shifter problem
Re: Motor Break In
Re: dick miller responds!
Re: Cryogenics
Re: 15x10s on a Delta
Re: Motor Break In
RE: READ ME: (Unless your nickname is ADMIN) 8^)
66-442 -400ci
Re: 15x10s on a Delta
Re: [Thomas Martin, Local Machine Shop]
Re: [Thomas Martin, Local Machine Shop]
Re: dick miller responds!
UNBOUNCE: 1961 olds dynamic 88 (394)
Toronado (fwd)
UNBOUNCE: '61 Starfire Questions
UNBOUNCE: 400 Engine Rebuild Question
Re: Oldsmobile Homecomming Show
Re: [Thomas Martin, Local Machine Shop]
info book
Cleaning tanks
Oil Pressure (Was=RE:Motor Break In)
test don't read
(Non Olds......Sorry)
Re: [UNBOUNCE: 400 Engine Rebuild Question]
Re: Alternator / Steering / Ignition
Re: UNBOUNCE: 400 Engine Rebuild Question
Re: 69 hood differences
Re: Motor Break In
subscribe
1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
Re: Notch them rods
Dick Miller

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 00:51:10 EST
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: READ ME: Help the Olds Cause! send to: dmracing1@aol.com

Hey Ray, find all the facts before everyone flames.  Like I said, many of the
Oldsmobile Street Rockets have dealt with DM with no problems.  He is alot
easier to talk to and ask questions than Mr. Mondello.   So hold off your
replies until you hear all the facts

W MACHINES

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 22:55:28 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: READ ME: Help the Olds Cause! send to: dmracing1@aol.com

I work in a racing eng shop.  There are WAY to many specs to remember them
all.  Although the man is not the best conversationalist he is RIGHT ask the
manufacturer.  Every cam has the potential to have its own spec.  Even the
sbc has several different specs.  To flood the mans business with mail is
uncalled for.

One of the best eng men I know is a real D#$K but he is a highly paid nascar
crew chief

Larry Pegg

- -----Original Message-----
From: Master Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, January 06, 1999 10:32 PM
Subject: READ ME: Help the Olds Cause! send to: dmracing1@aol.com


>Alright, hopefully everyone will read this and take it seriously.
>There is a company out there called Dick Miller Racing and they apparetly
>have some customer service issues that are unacceptable.  A response to
some
>inquiry was sent to a fellow list member which was quite abrupt and rather
>rude, let alone non-customer friendly.  This is a copy of the response from
>Dick Miller Racing.  Not sure what the original question was:
>
>"ask the people you bought your parts from"
>
>If that's the kind of support and service this company is going to offer to
>people who buy their product, I feel each of us should tell them that it is
>not acceptable.  Now, anyone who wants to write them is cool, but in my
>opinion, I think it's important to sound civilized and not use profanities
>or anything of the sort.  the idea is to flood their mailbox with mail of
>disgruntlement from the few hundred of us that there are here.  That should
>absolutely get a point across.
>
>Or of course we could all use the same letter and all "sign" it and send it
>individually.
>
>So whatever.  i hope many of you write and let them know that if they want
>to make money they have to treat people better.  see ya!
>
>here is Dick Miller Racigs Address:
>
>dmracing1@aol.com
>
>
>Ray Costanzo
>87 409 Cutlass
>84 Calais
>costanzo@netcarrier.com
>http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo
>-----Original Message-----
>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Gasman24
>Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 1999 11:17 PM
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Re: dick miller responds!
>
>
>Master Costanzo wrote:
>>
>> How about posting his address so we can complain about that.  There are
>many
>> people here, and perhaps enough participants could flood their inbox to
>make
>> some sort of a point.
>>
>> Ray Costanzo
>> 87 409 Cutlass
>> 84 Calais
>> costanzo@netcarrier.com
>> http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo
>>
>>
>  I think his address for his web page anyway is www.mspmall.com/dmr
>
> Let's go get 'em!
>
>  Scott
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 00:58:55 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Road Test

With the introduction of the first mass-produced overhead valve V-8 engine, in
1949, Oldsmobile rose to the top in popularity with the then small fraction of
performance enthusiasts. This boom lasted until the mid '50's, when other
manufacturers got on the OHV V-8 bandwagon, while Oldsmobiles got bigger,
heavier, more luxurious and less nimble. Due to these conditions, performance-
minded buyers began turning away from Olds and sales and performance figures
alike suffered during the ensuing decade.
A few years ago, however, the people at Oldsmobile began to grow concerned
about their image with the now rapidly expanding young car-buying market. In
an effort to recapture their past image, the 4-4-2 was introduced in 1965.
Although a step in the right direction, early 4-4-2's didn't quite measure up
to some of the other "supercars" of the day. But that was three years ago.
This writer's realization that Olds' performance capabilities have
considerably improved came about the hard way. The first time that I
encountered an Olds during my spare-time hobby of racing a '68 E/Stock Dodge
Dart, I found my self getting it "socked to me" as I followed one through the
time traps. When I got over my chagrin, I was anxious to learn more about
these obviously improved performers from Olds. A call was made to Mr. Jim
Williams, performance advisor at Olds in Lansing, Michigan, who agreed to
provide us a Cutlass "S" Coupe for CC to test and evaluate.
A few weeks later the Cutlass arrived in Los Angeles and was delivered to our
offices. Immediately, the entire staff poured into the parking lot to check
out the sparkling red beauty. Up went the hood, and we were confronted with
our first views of Olds' Forced Air Induction system. Two air scoops, one
mounted under each corner of the front bumper, were connected by duct hoses to
the air cleaner atop the Rocket 350 cu. in. engine. A quick check of the
literature in the glove compartment informed us that this was the 325-horse
version of the 350. Anxious to try her out, I jumped into the comfortable
driver's bucked and headed for the open road. The Hurst shifter did a smooth
job of getting the close ratio four-speed through the gears as we accelerated
onto the freeway. Cruising along at 65mph, we couldn't help but notice the
high pitched whine of the engine. After searching the instrument panel, the
tachometer was spotted on the right behind the clock face. By looking around
the steering wheel I was surprised to read that we were cruising along at 4500
rpm! Hmm, a check of the options list confirmed our suspicions that a heavy-
duty 4.66:1 rear axle package was included in the thousand dollars worth of
optional equipment. We were delighted to have the low clog for our drag test,
although it's not the hot setup for highway driving and gas mileage.

The following day we headed for Irwindale Raceway, where track managers Steve
Gibbs and Jim Edmunds were kind enough to set up the clocks for a baselinetest
of the showroom stock "S" Coupe. Attempts at high rpm starts went up in smoke
as the stock Firestone F70-15 Wide-Ovals just couldn't handle the low end
torque of the Olds. Finally by reverting to easing it out of the gate and then
going to the wood, we were able to manage a best of 14.45 and 99mph. Pleased
with the results of our initial testing, we headed back to town to make a few
changes.

Since Oldsmobile Racing division has advised us that a set of equal length
tube headers would provide a 25-30 horespower increase, we contacted Doug's
Headers about the possibility of procuring a set. Doug was very agreeable, so
our test car was sent over to be fitted up. Next stop on the Olds' agenda was
just up the road at Schiefer manufacturing Co., where Carl Scheifer offered to
install one of his superb Rev-Loc clutch units. Although the stock Olds clutch
seemed very adequate for street driving and an occasional weekend at the digs,
a good competition unit such as the Schiefer Rev-Loc is a must for an all-out
racer.

Fenton Equipment Co., provided us with a set of their super sharp "Ram-rod"
mag wheels, very appropriate for our "Ram-Rod 350"-equipped Olds. Two of J.C.
Penney's new line of Foremost AFX slicks, size 9:00 x 15, were mounted on the
Fenton Wheels, and our Cutlass was rearin' to run again.

Confident that we were ready for some 13-second times, we loaded up and headed
back out to Irwindale. After unloading all excess baggage, spare tire, etc.,
and opening up the Doug's headers, she was ready for the first pass.
Considering that we had a better tire than stock Wide-Ovals, in the form of
the Foremost slicks, we decided to try coming off the line by bringing up the
R's and dumping the clutch. Slowly I pulled into the staging beams and brought
the engine up to 3000 rpm as the yellow lights started down. As the last
yellow began to shine, I brought my foot off the clutch and almost went
through the windshield as the Olds lurched forward, then bogged. After a
couple more attempts at 3500 and 4000 rpm with the same result I tried a start
at 5000 rpm and the coupe moved out without a stumble. Upon the engagement of
the clutch, rpm dropped to about 3500 as the tires started to slip just a
little, then the R's started building rapidly back up to my anticipated shift
point of 6000. Unfortunately, I never reached that shift point, because at
5500 rpm the engine quit running, indicating that the hydraulic lifters were
pumping up. Obviously what had happened was that the engine had loosened up
internally from the street driving it had been subjected to since the first
time we ran the car. Consequntly, we decided to go ahead and run by "short
shifting" at 5400 rpm.

Before we go any further, let me make a comment on those Foremost tires. They
were so sticky that it was unreal! It certainly wouldn't be a bad idea to
check out your local J.C. Penney store if you are in the market for some good
racing tires. Possibly the reason that they work so well is that, according to
a rumor we've heard, Penney's tires are manufactured by the same company in
Ohio that turns out M&H Racemasters! If that's true, it's no wonder that they
work.

Since we had the drive procedure down pat, coming off the line at 5000 rpm and
shifting a 5400, we proceeded to put down several hard runs. Most of the runs
resulted in 14.0 e.t.'s at around 100 mph, with a best of the afternoon of
13.94 and 100.50. We realized that the full potential of our test Cutlass was
not being realized because of the lifter problem, so we headed back to town
and contacted Kent Babler, who runs an E/Stock Olds out of Century Oldsmobile
in Van Nuys. We explained our problem to Kent, who said that he had
experienced the same situation. He told us that by placing a .035 shim under
each rocker stand we would gain about 500 more rpm. We followed Kent's
instructions and the simple operation was complete in less than an hour. While
we had our wrenches out, a new set of Champion UJ8 plugs was thrown in for
good measure.

Back to Irwindale we went for our third and final series of runs. This time
everything went smoothly, as the Cutlass put down a number of 13.90's with a
best of 13.85 at 101.50 mph. The shimming of the rocker stands enabled us to
take her up to 6200 rpm before shifting with no sign of lifter pump up. Also
at the track that day were Chuck Poole, of wheelie truck fame, and "Dandy"
Dick Landy, who was out testing his new Hemi-Dart. Both Chuck and Deick took a
ride in our Olds and commented very favorably on its performance. To top our
day off, I defeated Deick two straight in our Olds, with Dick driving his
personal 440 ci. in. Charger, in a two out of three kicks race. I will have to
concede that Dick's Charger was suffering from a case of bad plugs, and was
running whiteout the benefit of open headers.

Just about the time we were wrapping up our drag test out here in California,
an invitation was received to come to Detroit, Michigan, to test three other
versions of the Cutlass. When we learned that one of these was a limited
production model powered by a 455 ci. in. Toronado engine, we couldn't get a
reservation on a eastbound plane fast enough. Upon our arrival in Motor City
telephone calls were made and it was arranged to meet the following day at
Milan Dragway for the test. As we headed across the Michigan countryside the
next morning, the sky opened up with a deluge of rain in a apparent attempt to
thwart our impending test. After a couple of hours, the rain stopped and we
calmly waited for the track to dry - calmly that is, except Milan's concerned
track manager, Mr. Cliff Riley. Cliff was busily driving his sweeper up and
down the track in an effort to clear off some of the water. We would again
like to express our appreciation to Mr. Riley for making his fine facility
available to us and for his aid in conducting our test.

While waiting for the track to dry, we took the opportunity to inspect the
different varieties of Cutlasses. First on the scene was an E/Stock F-85
sponsored by Victor George Olds in Flint, Michigan. The car was set up and is
run by Jack Marks, and is powered by the same 325 horsepower engine that we
had in our Cutlass "S" back in California. Jack explained that they chose to
run the F-85 because of the weight advantage for E/Stock class. With a bench
seat, stark interior and lack of other "niceties" with which our Cutlass "S"
was equipped, the F-85 weight was about 200 pounds less. Although the boys had
yet to blueprint their engine, the car was pretty well set up for class
competition with a set of Jr. Headers, a Schiefer clutch and Goodyear tires.
Prior to our tests, Jack had recorded a best of 13.05 and 106.12 mph with the
little F-85.

Next in the gate was Paul Riccardi's D/SA "Youngmobile" 4-4-2, sponsored by
Key Oldsmobile of Warren, Michigan. This was Pauls's first time out with his
new 4-4-2 and he was anxious to see how it would run. The 4-4-2's 400 ci.in.,
360-horsepower engine had yet to be blueprinted, but was equipped with a set
of Mickey Thompson headers. A Hurst Dual-Gate shifter was connected to a Turbo
hydro, while a set of Goodyears filled up the rear wheel wells. This car, as
well as the F-85, was equipped with the Forced Air Induction System.

The last car to arrive at the track - but far from the least - was the sliver
and black Hurst Olds. Immediately everyone in attendance gathered around for
their first glimpse of the gargantuan 455 cu.in. engine. This car was the
first prototype for 515 vehicles which are now being built at Demmer Tool &
Die Company in Lansing, Michigan. The H-O's original design was conceived by
Jack "Doc" Watson as a personal car for George Hurst. Oldsmobile liked the car
so well that they commissioned Jack Watson to headup the limited production
project at Demmer's Plant. Both Watson and Olds hi-perf man Dale Smith were on
hand for the tests.

The power plant for the H-O is basically a Toranado 455 incher. Special
cylinder heads, camshaft, distributor curve and carburetor jetting, as well as
standard forced air induction, contribute to the engine's 390-horsepower
output. A Turbo Hydramatic transmission is modified for complete manual
control through a standard Hurst Dual-Gate shifter. The car incorporates a
heavy-duty rearend assembly with a 3.91:1 gear ratio, as well as heavy-duty
4-4-2 suspension and rear stabilizer. Also standard are front wheel disc
brakes and Goodyear G70x14 Polyglas tires.

Jack pointed out to us that the H-O that he had brought down was "as
delivered" with the exception of the addition of a set of Hooker headers and a
pair of Goodyear seven-inch slicks.

By this time the track had dried sufficiently to allow some easy passes.
Eagerly I jumped into the H-O for my first run and, after a couple of burnouts
to heat up the tires, pulled into the staging beams. On the green, I went down
hard on the throttle and wham, those big Goodyears just went up in smoke. This
baby HAS some low end torque! Even after annihilating the tires off the line,
we came up with a respectable 13.39 and 107.39 mph. Several more 13.30 runs
were produced in quick succession, but the times began to fall off alittle
with each run. A quick investigation revealed to us that the front disc breaks
had become very hot, and that the pucks were dragging against the discs. We
allowed the brakes to cool for an hour, then Watson climbed into the H-O to
see what he could do. After easing it out of the gate and keeping tire spin at
a minimum, Watson ran a 13.08 and 107.88 mph. When he returned to the line and
learned of his times, he immediately staged up for one final "banzai" attempt
on the quarter-mile. The 3680 pound Cutlass lunged out of the gate like
gangbusters and 12.97 seconds later tripped the finish line beam, while
recording a top speed of 108.17. Not bad, not bad at all considering that the
track was still damp.

While we were doting over the H-O, Riccardi and Marks had been putting down
some hard runs in their respective Oldsmobiles. Jack's F-85 was, like the
Hurst Olds, having its share of traction problems due to the damp track. The
sleek black beauty put down a 13.27 and 104.76 mph for its best run of the
day. Paul's 4-4-2 was having its share of usual first time out problems as the
Turbo Hydro didn't want to shift. He managed a best of 13.33 and 103.56, very
respectable considering the traction and his having to back completely off the
throttle for each shift. Once these boys get everything right with their cars,
they are going to be bad news for their competitors in D/ and E/Stock.

So there you have the complete rundown on Oldsmobile's versions of '68
"Supercars." You will have to agree that they have come a long way since their
introduction of the first 4-4-2 back in 1965. If Olds keeps going at this
rate, it's a sure bet that they will regain the popularity they enjoyed with
the racing set back in the early '50's. 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 23:05:51 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Slamming dmracing1@aol.com

Master Costanzo wrote:
>  Not sure what the original question was:
> 
> "ask the people you bought your parts from"
> 
> If that's the kind of support and service this company is going to offer to
> people who buy their product, I feel each of us should tell them that it is
> not acceptable.

Perhaps before we all jump onto this bandwagon, we should all find out all the
events that transpired before this quote.  I'd suspect that DMR could have
answerred a little more thoroughly than that, but without seeing the question,
who are we to judge?  

Before we all slam these guys, can we see the entire sequence of events that 
led
up to this mess?  (If it was posted earlier, and I missed, my apologies...)  

If I read correctly, that quote was the entire message from DMR.  If this is
correct, then they should have said something more.  If that quote was ~not~ 
the
message in it's entirety, then we may all be making a mistake if we start
knocking these guys down.  Just one line can make a world of difference in the
perception of their statement.  

"We are unfamiliar with the products you are using so your best bet may be to"

If that line came before our famous quote, the whole thing would take on a
different meaning.  However, I don't know if any pre-quote material of the sort
took place, so I cannot make a judgement.  If something of that nature was
simply left out of the quote, or misinterpreted, we'd all be making asses out 
of
ourselves for rebuking DMR so recklessly.  

If the message we all see at face value here is the full viewpoint DMR has
shown, then by all means, fire away, 'cuz that is a p*ss-poor way to treat a
customer, past ~or~ potential.  However, I can't justify jumping someone's case
without knowing all the details of the situation.  

For instance, if someone came up to any of us, asking "how can I make my ch*vy
faster" the common reply would be "replace it with an Olds" or "Go ask someone
who gives a #$@% about chevrolet!"  Does that make any of us a**holes?  (Well,
maybe, I'd probably come across that way, but in relation to this scenario, I
think you all understand the point I'm about to make)  If this theoretical 
che*y
guy went around telling everyone "he told me to get $%@!ed" (alterring quote as
is so common in stories like that) If it ended there, it wouldn't be so bad, 
but
if all his friends came up to us and said "You're an a**hole" as a result of
this, we'd get a little frustrated by it, right?  

In a nutshell, what this epic post is getting at, is let's find out all the
facts to make sure we aren't taking this out of context, OK?




Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 01:08:28 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: READ ME: Help the Olds Cause! send to: dmracing1@aol.com

WMACHINES@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Hey Ray, find all the facts before everyone flames.  Like I said, many of the
> Oldsmobile Street Rockets have dealt with DM with no problems.  He is alot
> easier to talk to and ask questions than Mr. Mondello.   So hold off your
> replies until you hear all the facts
> 
> W MACHINES

Yeah, i'd like to second this.  We shouldn't jump the gun and load his
mailbox with a bunch of nasty letters without knowing all the facts
first.  We could really make a$$es of ourselves if we're not careful.

My $.02.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 01:13:29 EST
From: CUTLASS442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Road Test

In a message dated 1/6/99 10:00:07 PM Pacific Standard Time, Gutlass66@aol.com
writes:

<< 
 So there you have the complete rundown on Oldsmobile's versions of '68
 "Supercars." You will have to agree that they have come a long way since
their
 introduction of the first 4-4-2 back in 1965. If Olds keeps going at this
 rate, it's a sure bet that they will regain the popularity they enjoyed with
 the racing set back in the early '50's.  >>


rather lengthy but informative article. just a real quick correction though.
the introduction of the 442 (first year) was 1964 not 1965

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 01:21:50 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: READ ME: Help the Olds Cause! send to: dmracing1@aol.com

Ya know, I think you're probably right.  Immature young child here...

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 Calais
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

- -----Original Message-----
> Hey Ray, find all the facts before everyone flames.  Like I said, many of
the
> Oldsmobile Street Rockets have dealt with DM with no problems.  He is alot
> easier to talk to and ask questions than Mr. Mondello.   So hold off your
> replies until you hear all the facts
>
> W MACHINES

Yeah, i'd like to second this.  We shouldn't jump the gun and load his
mailbox with a bunch of nasty letters without knowing all the facts
first.  We could really make a$$es of ourselves if we're not careful.

My $.02.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 01:20:24 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: READ ME: Help the Olds Cause! send to: dmracing1@aol.com

"All I am saying, is give peace a chance."

If you don't like John Lennon,  try this one,  "Love thy Enemies" - Jesus

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 22:32:42 PST
From: "mike jones" <sspazzer@hotmail.com>
Subject: Olds item on Ebay

Check this one out..

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=52970500

From the pic it looks to be a Olds 442 HT coupe done up as a Highway 
Patrol car.  Looks pretty cool, never seen anything like it before.

Mike Jones
'78 Delta (350/TH350/103k)


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 06:32:43 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: 15x10s on a Delta

>So I tried to fit on my Cragar SS 15x10s on my Delta and they don't fit.
>The rear bolt pattern is the bigger
>4" 3/4 Vs. 4" 1/2 on the front.  The cragars look like they would fit the
>smaller bolt pattern so I will have to get rid of them and get new wheels.
>I was rather disappointed as these wheels are in decent shape and I can't
>really afford to get 4 new wheels.  Igor.

I'm wondering what wierd things happened to your Delta in a past-life to
give it a 5 on 4 1/2" bolt circle pattern; that's a mopar pattern, not the 4
3/4" circle you should have on there. Are you sure that the front is that
small? On both sides? Or did an oddball rotor/hub somehow make its way onto
your car?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 06:32:48 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Shifter problem

>fall:  When moving the shift lever, in any direction (P>L; L>D; etc.)
>for any distance, it seems rather stiff.  Tried to spray some lubricant
>down the shifter column, from under the dash, as well as up the column
>from the engine compartment, and it seemed to ease up a bit, but now
>with 0-5 oF temps at night, even in the garage, it seems stiff again
>(still!).   This is a daily driver; my 16 year old son uses it to go to

The bushings in the cross-shaft or linkage rods may be worn or missing, and
there's also the chance that the bracket holding that shaft in place has
loosened up. Either way, fresh bushings and proper alignment, along with a
few dabs of white grease here and there, will help to make your shifter
"like butter" again. Unless the problem is in the transmission itself...

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 06:32:46 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Motor Break In

>Small increase in performance and the small clutter I had from before seems
>to be gone (or much quieter, however it was never loud).  Oil pressure was a
>little high at start but now seems to be getting better.  Warm at idle in
>Drive (red light) it reads about 38-30 PSI, sometimes a bit over 30, still a
>little high when cold though.

Short of blowing off the oil filter, don't know that you can have too much
pressure. I'd recommend synthetic 10W-30 oil, if you're in a cold spot; sure
it might turn up a leak or two, but the motor spins freely and the oil
pressure comes up quickly with the synthetic, but doesn't get as excessive.

>I have been driving it hard since Day one cause I just could not resist
>after I dropped it in instead of the 307.  Lots of tire-smoke and a ticket
>to prove it :-)

See! Didn't we warn you that this kind of thing would happened when you
added 148ci in your engine compartment? :)

So, you're happy with your engine swap, I'm gathering? Weren't you worried
about whether the relatively-mild 455 you were building up would give you
enough of a performance increase over the stock 307? So, are you satisfied yet?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 23:40:59 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: dick miller responds!

Ken cleared up the mysterious parts by adding a bunch of good details, and 
> -------------------------
>     tricky dicks response..
> 
> >ask the people you bought your parts from
> -------------------------
>     and finally my response to all this...

OK, well that does indeed sound like a s**ty deal.  Sounds like another Joe... 
Kinda does make you want to stir the coals a bit, alright.  I've never dealt
with either of 'em, but it seems like the basic impression of Joe M is that 
he's
somewhat of a ...  well... you know.  

Why is it that some of the best Olds suppliers have to be pr*cks?  It's a
depressing question, for certain.  Hate to see how much of a #%^#head this guy
would be ~after~ we all got done reaming ~his~ valve-guides.....  Kinda scary
what might happen to the Olds aftermarket if we boycotted all the Olds 
suppliers
that were ****heads...  There's so few to start with.  Yikes.  Anyway, that's
more than enough rambling for ~me~ on the subject, so I'll jump off my pedastal
now.  Ken, best of luck to you, I hope you can find the answers you need.  My
best recommendation is to ask ~everyone~ you can find, the list (of course) 
Comp
Cams, your machinist, whoever you got the pistons from, Edelbrock, Dave Smith,
Mondello (done) Dick Miller (attempted) Chris Witt (If you can catch him) and
anyone else you can think of.  Remember, these are all real people, subject to
bad days (although no way to run a business) The more opinions you get, the 
more
informed you will be.  I'd definately do the clay test thing, and assemble the
heads with a test spring, to measure how far the valve can open before hitting
the piston, but it's nice to be armed with info from everyone else, too.  As
you've seen, you'll get a variety of responses, some useful, others not, but 
the
more you get, the better informed you're likely to be.  Once again, best of
luck!  
- -- 

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 02:02:24 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Cryogenics

In a message dated 1/6/99 9:47:45 PM Pacific Standard Time,
nurelic@primenet.com writes:

<< They have, it works, it's pricey >>

     Who has, wheres the story, and why hasn't the list said anything about
it? (all of course if it HASN'T been covered before here..I do remember
hearing something about someone wanting opinions on it..hope it was this
list!)  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 00:08:41 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 15x10s on a Delta

>I'm wondering what wierd things happened to your Delta in a past-life to
>give it a 5 on 4 1/2" bolt circle pattern; that's a mopar pattern, not the
4
>3/4" circle you should have on there. Are you sure that the front is that
>small? On both sides? Or did an oddball rotor/hub somehow make its way onto
>your car?

Well, you have the smaller GM patter and the bigger.  For example, a 1980s
Cutlass has the smaller bolt pattern and a early 98 Regency has the bigger
bolt patter.  I thought that 4" 1/2 was the smaller and 4" 3/4 the bigger
bolt pattern.  My '81 98 has the big pattern and my '81 Delta the small
patter.  However, when I swapped out the 307 I also took the stock 2.41 posi
out and put a 3.23 posi out of a late '70s Buick with the bigger bolt
patter.  Hence, my front has the smaller bolt and my rear the bigger bolt
patter.  I just had the Delta painted (metallic blue with silver stripes on
the hood and trunk, as well as a small hood induction).  Sooooo, I want nice
rims to make this car look good not a nice paint with crappy stock wheels
painted with spray can.  So clarify for me which is the small and which the
big bolt patter.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 00:20:01 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Motor Break In

>Short of blowing off the oil filter, don't know that you can have too much
>pressure. I'd recommend synthetic 10W-30 oil, if you're in a cold spot;
sure
>it might turn up a leak or two, but the motor spins freely and the oil
>pressure comes up quickly with the synthetic, but doesn't get as excessive.


I live in Calgary, Alberta so it get pretty cold.  I don't drive it now
though so that my new paint job does not get ruined.  I am thinking about
Synthetic.

>>I have been driving it hard since Day one cause I just could not resist
>>after I dropped it in instead of the 307.  Lots of tire-smoke and a ticket
>>to prove it :-)

>See! Didn't we warn you that this kind of thing would happened when you
>added 148ci in your engine compartment? :)


Yup, you guys did.  You specifically said that tire-spin will become a
problem, but I never though like this.

>So, you're happy with your engine swap, I'm gathering? Weren't you worried
>about whether the relatively-mild 455 you were building up would give you
>enough of a performance increase over the stock 307? So, are you satisfied
yet?


Mild, Mild.  I am satisfied except for a few things.  First, the cam is too
small.  It is a Lunati grind with 204/214 duration @.050, .448/.472 lift.
With my 3.23s and 12 inch converter, once the tires stop spinning I am over
my power band.  It works good to 3500, okay to 3800-4000 and nothing after.
The second thing is the gears.  I was used to my 2.41 rear and now 2.56 with
O/D on my Regency, so doing 3000 RPM to keep at 70 MPH is lots for me.  That
leaves me to the last point.  Now, I have to calculate my fuel economy in
GPM not MPG.  Other then that, the 455 is great.  I did bore and got higher
compression pistons.  Also, I ported the Js on the exhaust side. I already
got another 455 core to play with.  You once said that I should get 2 to 3
sec. of my 0-60.  Before: 11-12 sec.  Now: 6 seconds.  My old 307 was (is) a
great motor, however it would never launch like that, sound like that and
smoke the tires in second gear.  I will get my page done SOON so that
everyone can see and read the specks. a bit closer.  I also want to work on
the suspension next.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 02:25:42 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: READ ME: (Unless your nickname is ADMIN) 8^)



------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 23:24:33 -0800
From: "Allen C." <sbullet@aracnet.com>
Subject: 66-442 -400ci

I am posting this question for friend who is stumped after completely
rebuilding a 400ci engine from a 66-442. He has consdierable experience
building high performance engines for Corvettes 327-427, but has never
tackled an Olds before. After assembling the bottom end and adding the
heads, he spun the oil pump shaft (counterclockwise)  and got oil to all the
lifters. With the heads, valvetrain and intake on, he again tried to pump up
oil to all the rocker tips by spinning the oil pump with a reverse drill.
This was a final check before getting ready to take it for a dyno session.
He only gets oil to 9 of 16 rockers (through the push rods). On a chev
small/big block, he usually gets oils to all 16. There is a pencil-lead
diameter stream of oil visible through the distributor hole, coming from a
drilled plug at the back of the block. It looks like it would spray the
distributor gear. Is this stream normal and is it what's preventing enough
pressure being generated to reach all 16 rockers. Should this plug not be
drilled? or drilled with a smaller diameter? Should he be getting oil to all
16 rockers by merely spinning the pump?  Any advice/suggestions would be
greatly appreciated. He doesn't want to have to dis-assemble this golden
baby. Thanks   Allen C.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 03:36:05 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: 15x10s on a Delta

Igor,
Small pattern is 4 3/4"  large pattern is 5".  
Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 04:12:31 EST
From: GraphixRUs@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Thomas Martin, Local Machine Shop]

What crank bearing are y'all refering to?
Please excuse my ignorance!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 03:21:13 -0600 (CST)
From: blue442@webtv.net
Subject: Re: [Thomas Martin, Local Machine Shop]

The magic Y'all word!  

They are refering to a pilot bearing for a manual transmission with an
auto crank.  The auto cranks were not drilled for such from the factory.

Jeff Carter
blue442@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 04:29:20 EST
From: GraphixRUs@aol.com
Subject: Re: dick miller responds!

Thanks for the thread about Millers attitude. 
I'm going to retire in Oct & I have 6 cars to restore, engines & all.
I guess Mr.  dick won't be getting any of my business. Of course , he probably
won't lose any sleep over that either.
  I live in Thomasville , nc  ( near Greenboro ) & there isn't a machine shop
around here that is really an Olds familiar shop. 
  If any of you on this list know of a good machine shop within 100 miles of
Greensboro or Winston- Salem, I would appreciate a hollar.
Later .
Roger Utter 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 06:39:21 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 1961 olds dynamic 88 (394)

Not on the list; respond to robertd@bellsouth.net if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	robertd@bellsouth.net
Subject: 1961 olds dynamic 88 (394)

need info on rebuild kits and other restoration parts---have two 1961
Dynamic 88's with 394 cc engines--thanks, R. Davis

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 06:41:00 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Toronado (fwd)

  This message is in MIME format.  The first part should be readable text,
  while the remaining parts are likely unreadable without MIME-aware tools.
  Send mail to mime@docserver.cac.washington.edu for more info.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01BE398C.1DF12460
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; CHARSET=iso-8859-1
Content-ID: <Pine.GSO.3.95.iB1.0.990107063946.22726E@halifax.chebucto.ns.ca>

I received this personally, respond to pdcarmack@earthlink.net if you can
assist. 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: D&P Carmack <pdcarmack@earthlink.net>
Subject: Toronado

I am not a member of your club but I got your name from your web site.

I have a 1979 ols Toronado that has 8572 miles on it.  It is near perfect,
just like new.  My question is what is it worth?  Where is the best place
to market it, and to who.  I would like to sell it to someone that will
take care of it and not use it everyday.  Thank you for your time,and if
you cannot help me, I would be grateful if you could put me in touch with
the right person.  Thanked for your time

David Carmack
303 680-9612 or 303 887-2017 or you could email me.  Thanks again.  

- ------=_NextPart_000_0017_01BE398C.1DF12460--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 06:43:13 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '61 Starfire Questions

Not on the list; respond to nvariel@webtv.net if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	nvariel@webtv.net (noreen vitolo)
Subject: Please post  on Bulitien Board

Re: 61 olds starfire convertible

What interior colors were produced with a black exterior and a tan top?

Does anyone have a showroom brochure that shows the color combinations?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 06:44:57 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 400 Engine Rebuild Question

Not on the list; respond to sbullet@aracnet.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Allen C." <sbullet@aracnet.com>
Subject: 66-442 -400ci

I am posting this question for friend who is stumped after completely
rebuilding a 400ci engine from a 66-442. He has consdierable experience
building high performance engines for Corvettes 327-427, but has never
tackled an Olds before. After assembling the bottom end and adding the
heads, he spun the oil pump shaft (counterclockwise)  and got oil to all the
lifters. With the heads, valvetrain and intake on, he again tried to pump up
oil to all the rocker tips by spinning the oil pump with a reverse drill.
This was a final check before getting ready to take it for a dyno session.
He only gets oil to 9 of 16 rockers (through the push rods). On a chev
small/big block, he usually gets oils to all 16. There is a pencil-lead
diameter stream of oil visible through the distributor hole, coming from a
drilled plug at the back of the block. It looks like it would spray the
distributor gear. Is this stream normal and is it what's preventing enough
pressure being generated to reach all 16 rockers. Should this plug not be
drilled? or drilled with a smaller diameter? Should he be getting oil to all
16 rockers by merely spinning the pump?  Any advice/suggestions would be
greatly appreciated. He doesn't want to have to dis-assemble this golden
baby. Thanks   Allen C.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 06:33:14 -0500
From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Homecomming Show

TheBlue67@aol.com wrote:
> 
> pass the info onto me too. my brother, dad, and i plan to make the trip up
> there for the show. so what the dilli yo?
> 
> Thanks
> Brent
> 1967 Cutlass Convertible

	Brent,

Here is a note that I received from the Homecoming committee a couple of
months ago:

	"Homecoming 99 is June 19th but we don't have a location as of yet.  As
soon as we do, we will get something out either in JWO or thru the mail
in a form of a flyer." 

         ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
               Mark Cornea (Dr. Decal)  OCA# 4903
                             1970 W30 (red)

                      mailto:drdecal@wwnet.net
                      mailto:mcornea@ford.com

                    Visit http://www.drdecal.com
        ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 06:38:13 EST
From: GraphixRUs@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Thomas Martin, Local Machine Shop]

O.K.
  I didn't get in on the beginning  of the threas. That is the only bearing
tha might use a snap ring ,
  Thanks.
  
Well it worked again.
  The old y'all trick. 
  I use that when I really want an answer.
  You see I was born in Corning , N.Y. & raised in Hammondsport, N.Y.  -- I'm
going to start something here - Hammondsport is the birthplace of Glenn
Curtiss - anyone ever here of him?
  We moved to nc 14 years ago -- love it here.
  I just have a lot of fun with y'all ,  y'all
  Later.Roger Utter

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 07:08:43 EST
From: GraphixRUs@aol.com
Subject: info book

   We at  Mid Atlantic Chapter Olds Club of America , are very fortunate to
have as a member, Charles Sullivan. His son , T. Patrick Sullivan, is the
author of  an excellent publication:   OLDSMOBILE   4-4-2  &  W-MACHINE
Restoratio  Guide.  You may have seen  it at swap meets  etc.  If you don't
have  one, you  really need to check it out. Of course it has a lot of  the "
same old stuff" in it   BUT , it also has things not  in others.
  I have seen a lot on this list about the placement of strips. Patrick has
layouts of strip placement etc.
  The book is easily identified: 
  The cover is a beautiful photo of a  yellow  1970  442 with W-30 optiion
owned by Greg Joseph  of  Long Beach , Ca.
    O.K. you say, what is he selling this time?
      
 Patrick has been gracious enough to  help MACOCA  with  our Jason Doby
Project.      
       By offering  the  guide to  us so we can sell it to you for  $30.00
postage paid ,   we can get some monitary donations. We desperately need some.
  If any of you do not know about this project , please e-mail me privatley. 
  ALL  inquiries will be answered!
    I have the chassis mostly blasted & ready for POR -15 , if we  ever get a
donation of it. The  underside of the body is nearly ready for sealing.  All
of these items are not $1.00 at a time things. I know when I go to prime the
body it will be over $150  dollars for the epoxy primer. If we can sell  50
of these guides, that  will pay for the primer. 
  If any of you are interested in  the  guide you  may contact me here  by e-
mail  or by phone, 336-476-3432.  You  can  also contact Britt Lineberger,
(pres. MACOCA ) 336-294-4343.
   If you do wish to order  a guide   PLEASE  make the check out to " MACOCA "
   Send the check to:
   

    Rowland Graphics
    208-B  Cox Ave.
    Thomassville, N.C.
     27360

     or

     Britt Lineberger
     1310 Victory St.
     Greensboro, N.C.
     27407

  You will receive a tax deductable donation receipt in the mail with the
guide.
 Again  MACOCA  -  Rowland Graphics  & I  want to thank Greg for the space &  
                                                y'all
 for the support.

    Roger Utter  OCA # 27353
    

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 07:52:07 -0600 
From: "Drusch, Wayne (Human Resources & Risk Mgmt)" 
<wayne_drusch@co.harris.tx.us>
Subject: Cleaning tanks

>Subject: Cleaning Tanks

>What's the best ways/products to clean the puke tank, and wiper/washer
>tanks. Anyone try using chlorine bleach diluted? Would like to find a
>process to remove stains and bring back to the original white plastic
>surface. No, haven't tried anything yet. Just wondering if anyone has
>tackled this matter and to what success.

Replacement is the only sure way. Tried soaking in bleach, running through
the dish washer, cleaning with solvents, steel wool, sand paper and a bunch
of other unsuccessful things. The engine heat and time, not to mention the
rust and other stains, just does a number on the polyethylene used to make
those containers with no good way to restore back to original. Even asked my
daughter who makes the raw plastic pellets at her plant if there was a way
to restore the surface on that type plastic and she was not aware of
anything.

Maybe some of the experienced restorers have found a solution-- such as a
coating that will stick to give the look of a new surface. Be interesting to
see what other list members have done.

E. Wayne Drusch
71 Cutlass Conv

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 05:57:35 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Oil Pressure (Was=RE:Motor Break In)

<snip>  Oil pressure was a
> little high at start but now seems to be getting better.  Warm at
idle in
> Drive (red light) it reads about 38-30 PSI, sometimes a bit over 30,
still a
> little high when cold though.
<snip>
- ---------------------------------------------------
Just a quick question here, what kind of oil pressure to others have
in their Oldsies? My engine (350 Rocket) has about 13,000 on it since
rebuild. I run CAM 2 15W 40 in the summer time. I have oil pressures
that follow. Cold-Anywhere from about 60 to 75 PSI (Depends on RPM
range) Warm Idle-About 40-50 PSI. Warm Driving-About 45-60 (Depending
on speed and such) I thought that maybe it was just my gauge that was
off but I hooked in another gauge and that read the same reading. I
know that this is pretty high. I have had a tough time getting the
thing to not leak, but it doesn't leak enough to where I have to add
any oil before an oil change. As far as I know, the oil pump is the
stock pump. (It came in the box that the disassembled engine was in) 

Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 09:15:03 -0500
From: dgerow@student.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: test don't read

test

- --
- ---------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
Computer Support
Systems Administrator
Stonehill College
320 Washington Street
Easton, MA 02357
dgerow@stonehill.edu
- ---------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 06:25:59 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: (Non Olds......Sorry)

List,

Please don't hate me too much here, but does anyone know of a e-mail
ring for Monte Carlo owners? Or any really informative Monte sites? A
friend of mine has an 86 Monte Carlo SS and he is looking for parts
and performance info. Can anyone help?

TIA,
Del

E-mail me privately to reduce bandwidth usage. rockman20@yahoo.com




==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: 7 Jan 99 07:29:21 MST
From: RSTOMN <restoman@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [UNBOUNCE: 400 Engine Rebuild Question]

oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:
Not on the list; respond to sbullet@aracnet.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Allen C." <sbullet@aracnet.com>
Subject: 66-442 -400ci

I am posting this question for friend who is stumped after completely
rebuilding a 400ci engine from a 66-442. He has consdierable experience
building high performance engines for Corvettes 327-427, but has never
tackled an Olds before. After assembling the bottom end and adding the
heads, he spun the oil pump shaft (counterclockwise)  and got oil to all the
lifters. With the heads, valvetrain and intake on, he again tried to pump up
oil to all the rocker tips by spinning the oil pump with a reverse drill.
This was a final check before getting ready to take it for a dyno session.
He only gets oil to 9 of 16 rockers (through the push rods). On a chev
small/big block, he usually gets oils to all 16. There is a pencil-lead
diameter stream of oil visible through the distributor hole, coming from a
drilled plug at the back of the block. It looks like it would spray the
distributor gear. Is this stream normal and is it what's preventing enough
pressure being generated to reach all 16 rockers. Should this plug not be
drilled? or drilled with a smaller diameter? Should he be getting oil to all
16 rockers by merely spinning the pump?  Any advice/suggestions would be
greatly appreciated. He doesn't want to have to dis-assemble this golden
baby. Thanks   Allen C.

I think you should turn the motor a little spin the 
pump then turn the motor alittle more spin the pump ect..
worked for me on my 56 olds v-8 rebuild.



RESTOMAN

____________________________________________________________________
More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://home.netscape.com/netcenter/mail

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 09:28:29 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Alternator / Steering / Ignition

I'm looking for a GM 10SI 63 amp or higher alternator core.
_______

Dave,

I've purchased crusty 10SI cores at swap meets (ie, Carlisle) for $5.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 09:41:26 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: 400 Engine Rebuild Question

...There is a pencil-lead
diameter stream of oil visible through the distributor hole, coming from a
drilled plug at the back of the block. It looks like it would spray the
distributor gear. Is this stream normal and is it what's preventing enough
pressure being generated to reach all 16 rockers. Should this plug not be
drilled? or drilled with a smaller diameter? Should he be getting oil to
all
16 rockers by merely spinning the pump?  Any advice/suggestions would be
greatly appreciated. He doesn't want to have to dis-assemble this golden
baby. Thanks   Allen C.
_____________

The plug _should_ be drilled, as this is mandatory for oiling the
distributor gear.  Are the non-oiled rockers all clumped together in one
common location, or are they randomly located?  Are the pushrods new, or
have you at least checked them for blockage?  Was the aforementioned
drilled plug (and all the oil gallery plugs) removed for proper cleaning
prior to reassembly?  I agree that if you're getting oil to some of the
rockers while priming, I'd expect to get it to all of them, but is it
possible that some of the lifters have not been completely filled yet?
Also, keep in mind that I believe there is a check valve in the lifter that
prevents oil from being sent to the pushrod while under compression
(otherwise the lifter would bleed down and clatter).  It's possible that
the seven lifters in question are under compression.  Try rotating the
engine 180 degrees and spinning the pump again to see if the lack of lube
moves around.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 09:44:32 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 69 hood differences

Is there any differencebetween a 69 Cutlass S and 442 hood.  Wayne
Schwartz
_________

No, Cutlass S/442 used the same "double hump" hood with the two raised
panels and the chrome "grilles" at the base of the windshield.  F-85s,
wagons, four doors, and Supremes used the flat hood that simply had punched
vents at the base of the windshield.  Note that if an F-85 was equipped
with the W-31 package, the S/442 hood was substituted.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 06:45:47 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Motor Break In

> >Short of blowing off the oil filter, don't know that you can have
too much
> >pressure. I'd recommend synthetic 10W-30 oil, if you're in a cold
spot;
> sure
> >it might turn up a leak or two, but the motor spins freely and the
oil
> >pressure comes up quickly with the synthetic, but doesn't get as
excessive.
<snip>
================================================
I tried running a synthetic in my Olds. I didn't like it. The oil
pressure would drop to about 15 at an idle! The oil pressure
fluctuated so bad and it really didn't run the greatest. I switched
back to CAM2 15W-40. My Olds seems to love that oil.

Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 09:53:25 EST
From: Elboroomxx@aol.com
Subject: subscribe

please add my email to your list of subscribers.  thankyou elboroomxx@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 07:52:47 -0700 
From: Henry Biays <hbiays@copic.com>
Subject: 1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

I'm searching for a front left and right fender for my Cutlass convertible.
My first choice would be a set of new fenders.  My second choice would be a
set of used fenders in good to excellent condition.  Does anyone know where
I could find these fenders?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 09:51:28 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Notch them rods

What is notching, and how is it done?  Is it something I can do myself,
or do I have to pay Machine Shop Guy to do it?
________

The notch is 1/2" wide and 0.010-0.012" deep on the flat faces on the sides
of the big end of the rod (the faces of the rods that rub together when
installed on the crank).  The notches should be aligned along the long axis
of the rod (ie, on a line from the big end to the small end).  The intent
is to allow oil to leave the bearings, promoting cooler running by allowing
this oil to carry away heat.  It does occur to me, however, that this would
require a higher volume oil pump as well.

I recently had this done to a set of 455 rods at a machine shop.  They
charged my $60 for the set (one hour's work).  If you have access to a mill
and know how to use it, it's a very simple procedure.  Be careful when
describing the work, however.  The shop was convinced that I wanted these
notched _inside_ the bearing bore!  Note that this was _after_ I had given
them a copy of Mondello's drawing!  I made sure the machinist completely
understood what I wanted before I left.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 09:56:46 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Dick Miller

Hey, gang, hold up here.

I think we'd be doing Dick and ourselves a big disservice if we immediately
jump on this flamer bandwagon.  First, _everybody_ has a bad day every so
often.  Dick has been extremely helpful to many list members.  It would be
a shame to ignore all that and rag on him for a single email reponse.  Note
that this is in contrast to Joe M, who _does_ have a history of behavior
that is less than desireable.   This whole episode really scares me when it
comes to important issues - the power of the internet and media to rile
people up for a miniscule thing unfortunately says a lot for the general
public.  The bottom line is that we should never form an opinion like this
based on a single data point.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1706
*********************************

