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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1792


oldsmobile-digest      Friday, February 19 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1792



Re: W-30 Production Totals
Re: FS:  '57-'67 Olds Parts
RE: Paint Prep (Igor)
Re: PAINT PREP BOOKS
Re: Authentic "C" head
Re: Roll Call
Roll Call...Addicted to OLDS
Re: Roll Call - Chris Urban
More screensaver stuff
Re: The Holy Order of Rocketeers needs YOU!
Re: Roll Call
Re: Paint Prep (Igor)
[none]
Roll Call
g-body list
handling
Re: Roll Call - Chris Urban
Re: Hood change?
Re: Roll Call - Chris Urban
Re: Paint Prep (Igor)
roll call list
Re: PAINT PREP BOOKS
Re: 65 442 parts car
Re: was screen Saver Pics update, now 73-77 cutlass
Re: W-30 Production Totals
*I* Like 73-77 Cutlii, Except For One Thing
Re: roll call list(list)
Re: My Cutlass has a problem
Re: Roll Call/Cotton farmer
75 Hurst Olds/parts too (FS) price now
Re: 75 Hurst Olds/parts too/also 74 Hurst Olds (FS) price now
Re: Hood change?
Re: *I* Like 73-77 Cutlii, Except For One Thing
Re: Screen Saver Pics update
Re: W-30 Production Totals
Re: Conv't Top Replacement $$
Re: *I* Like 73-77 Cutlii, Except For One Thing
Re: Screen Saver Pics update
Re: W-30 Production Totals(65 "442"code)
Re: Hood change?
Convertables, was Re: *I* Like 73-77 Cutlii,
Re: Screen Saver Pics update
G-body list
Re: Need dimensions for engine cradle.
Re: G-body list
Re: Need dimensions for engine cradle.
Re: A/C setup
Re: What A Body radiator for a '71 VC?
Re: Hood change?
Re: G-body list
Re: Hood change?
Re: Rocket Talk
Re: Screen Saver Pics update
69 Southern Shell
Re: Rocket Talk
Re: My Cutlass has a problem
Re: Harry's U-Pull It in Hazelton Pennsylvania.
Re: Screen Saver Pics update
Re: Hood change?
twilight sentinel

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 01:01:24 -0500
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: W-30 Production Totals

        There were 96 of those built.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts


At 10:43 PM 2/18/99 , you wrote:
>Do you know the production totals for Oldsmobile 442 W-30 4-speed convertibles
>made in 1970? 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 01:08:58 -0500
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: FS:  '57-'67 Olds Parts

Gene

        Yes I can E-mail you a picture. The 64 auto console is nice. maybe a
couple very small pits. Nothing major at all.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts


At 11:04 PM 2/18/99 , you wrote:
>Hi Jim,
>   Could you please email a picture of this air cleaner? I'd like to see it
>before I order it. One other question: How's the chrome on the '64 console?
>I just got one in decent shape but the chrome has several pits in it. Would
>your's be substantially nicer (ie. bordering on perfect)? Thanks,
>Gene
> 
>>66-67 442 Air Cleaner (2)  $85.00 ea
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 00:14:21 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: RE: Paint Prep (Igor)

But this is a Texas car...there isn't ANY rust ANYWHERE (and my entire desk
is made out of wood, and I just knocked on all of it...)

At 12:55 AM 2/19/99 -0500, you wrote:
>The sanding all over is not only to take down rusted sections, but is to
>roughen the old paint surface for better new paint adhesion to the old.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
>> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Brian Ammons
>> Sent: Friday, February 19, 1999 12:32 AM
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: Paint Prep (Igor)
>>
>>
>> >It came out good. There are a couple small spots that if you look you can
>> see. Overall it looks brand
>> >new.
>>
>> Why are those spots there?  What (if anything) could you have
>> done to avoid
>> these?
>>
>> >>Would not a color
>> >>change involve removing a good portion of the interior (not
>> necessarily the
>> >>carpet, I guess, because you can't see that, but...)
>> >
>> >Yeah, if you want it right.  I did that all myself.  One day to take it
>> >apart, one to put it back together.  Also for the door jams, I
>> had to remove
>> >the doors, sand them (inside) and the car.  After the paint job, the body
>> >shop reinstalled the doors.
>>
>> This sanding...done because of the color change, or because it's just the
>> way to do it?  I'm GUESSING that yes, for a really bitchin' paint job, you
>> should always go to bare metal before applying paint, but if
>> you're keeping
>> the same color, is this all over sanding necessary?  By "necessary", I
>> mean, "Can I tell from 5 feet?"
>>
>> What method of sanding did you use?  Power or hand, what grit, wet or dry?
>> How much time for the sanding?
>>
>> But I wouldn't need to screw around with anything inside the door
>> jams if I
>> was keeping the same color, yes?  Just get everything on the
>> outside of the
>> car off, get the body straight...what am I getting myself into?
>>
>> >I decided not to bup emblems back on.  Wanted to keep the car
>> clean looking
>> >but the main reason is that my emblems were junk.  I also
>> painted the trunk,
>> >for which I had to remove and reinstall it (as well as sand it).
>>
>> But the emblems are cool!
>> -------------------------------------------------------------
>>  Brian Ammons		Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
>>  MIS Major - UT Austin	b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
>>  2903 Breeze Terrace	http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
>>  Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
>>  1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
>> 	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
>>  	  4-door		(713) 318-5938
>> -------------------------------------------------------------
>>
> 
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 00:15:22 -0600
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: PAINT PREP BOOKS

>Wasn't there a movie about this? Push forward, pull back. Move in circles.
>Repeat five million times. Then use poly urethane paint, it goes on like
>enamel and looks like lacquer
>and is very forgiving. Shows deep sand scratches tho. 
> 

WHAT are you talking about?

"Wax on, Wax off" is Karate Kid, but...remember, I like everything
explained S-L-O-W-L-Y...
- -------------------------------------------------------------
 Brian Ammons		 Universal Internet # (ICQ) - 3585737
 MIS Major - UT Austin	 b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
 2903 Breeze Terrace	 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
 Austin, TX 78722	Home :	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
 1984 Oldsmobile		(713) 776-2110 (Houston)
	Delta 88	Pager:	(512) 483-8056
 	  4-door		(713) 318-5938	
- -------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 23:27:05 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Authentic "C" head

They're off a '69 Toro, non-rotater type.

Lisa

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 01:36:30 -0500
From: jgoble@nishanet.com (Jeramy Goble)
Subject: Re: Roll Call

Reggie Goble
Capital One Financial
Grandpa
69 Toronado

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 22:45:08 PST
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Roll Call...Addicted to OLDS

Hi List my name is Chris Rivier and I'm ADDICTED TO OLDS.

36 years young
Artist/ Designer/Drummer
If I can't find it & buy it, then I design it and build it.

Grew up around gear heads.  Uncles were engineers.  Cousins raced bikes.  
Need I say more.

Currently working as a CAD Tech. for a Blade Technologies,
We specialize in Facility Management and Database Integration.

AAAARRRRGGGGHHHH!!    Work Hard and Play Hard in Austin,TX the 
"Live Music Capital of the World".  

'66 Delta 88 Celebrity Sedan, aka "The BEAST"
'88 Festiva, "ZIPPY" 166K, college car.
Wreck Pics--http://www2.bladeti.com/cars/

First Car, Olds what else.
'72 Cutlass Supreme...yeah, wish I still had it too.





______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 01:49:56 EST
From: Stakin@aol.com
Subject: Re: Roll Call - Chris Urban

<< Chris,
 How about some more info on that 69 Drag car.
 9.7's quarter I presume.  Olds powered?
 Got any pics posted?  Love to hear more! >>

I second that !

Joe Stackman

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 02:01:52 -0500
From: dgerow@student.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: More screensaver stuff

Hello once again,

Well, its looking good.  Got some new pics from everyone (thank you all
so very much) and I have the basic idea down to appease the "text" vs.
"no text" crowd.  This way I can maximize your Olds viewing pleasure
while still giving a heads up on the year/model.  Remember, some of us
are neophyte Oldsmobilers, like myself.  We need a little help now an
then.  Lastly, I would ask this:  does anyone have a decent, scan,
pictures, drawing, whatever of the Cutlass emblem and perhaps the
multicolored 442 block?  I would need to be a decent screen resolution
size and rather clear.  I'm gonna be extra picky about this one.  If
not, ok...I'm considering breaking out 3D Studio Max for this one...may
have to create them from scratch.  In which case, its gonna take me a
while.  We'll see.
I've been doing allot of "Photoshop-ing" so hold on everyone.  This will
happen sometime soon!  Thanks again for all your help.

Rock on!

Dan

'69 4-4-2
'71 Cutlass Supreme
'72 Grand Prix

- --
- ------------------------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
dgerow@stonehill.edu
http://www.stonehill.edu/wshl
http://www.stonehill.edu/~dgerow
- ------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 02:38:16 EST
From: Jetaway4sp@aol.com
Subject: Re: The Holy Order of Rocketeers needs YOU!

In a message KarlAunan@aol.com writes:
<< Well, as a bona fide religious cult, we will be tax exempt
  And you should ~see~ the Vista Cruisers we will be using as transports!
  in the wake of the "Heaven's Gate" sensation.
KKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK

Karl,
When was the last time you were professionally evaluated? Just checkin' !

Randy in Oklahoma
57 88 J2  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 01:00:35 -0800
From: Terry Watson <terent@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Roll Call

Terry Watson
Civil Engineer in Riverside,CA
67 442 (since new) 265,000 mi, now undergoing its 3rd renovation
70 442 W30 (in a basket)
70 Cutlass (about to receive a new 455+)
71 240Z w/67 330/4sp

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 02:12:52 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Paint Prep (Igor)

>Why are those spots there?  What (if anything) could you have done to avoid
>these?


They are not very visible.  They are there because of a rougher sanding job.
When you sand the car 5 times in the same spot with three different grits,
and given that the car is that BIG, then you might miss it.  The difference
is so small that while the car is primed, you can't see or feel it.  A
professional can, but not always and it gets harder on a car that big.


>This sanding...done because of the color change, or because it's just the
>way to do it?  I'm GUESSING that yes, for a really bitchin' paint job, you
>should always go to bare metal before applying paint, but if you're keeping
>the same color, is this all over sanding necessary?  By "necessary", I
>mean, "Can I tell from 5 feet?"

You don't sand your car and the first car wash you go into could be the
last.  You have to sand to dive paint something to stick to.  If you keep
the same color and the type of paint, and also if the body is really good,
you might only have to prime the spots that had body work on them, while not
having to do anything but sand the other parts.


>What method of sanding did you use?  Power or hand, what grit, wet or dry?
>How much time for the sanding?


Okay, the body on my car SUCKED.  There was rust all over the place and more
then a few "dings".  SO, I used a orbital sender (two guys, two days) to
sand the car with 240 grit until the paint was well scuffed and until you
start seeing the first coat of primer (car was painted once before), but
avoid getting all the way down to bare metal.  Then, I blasted the rust
spots and small dings.  After which, all the places I was going to put bondo
on were done with 40 grit (except the blasted parts which were rough
enough).  When I did the body work, I sanded the filler down with 180-240
grit progressively. Then, I took a orbital and did the car again with 320,
except the bondo spots.  I did those spots by hand with 320 working the
"hand job" well into the surrounding area.  This is because orbital can go
trough bondo in a second.  After this I took the car into the body shop for
MUCH MORE body work (they can feel bad spots), some new metal, etc.  Then
the shop installed most of the hood induction (I was just there to say where
and how big a hole).  Then work the hood induction into hood metal, etc.  I
also had all the emblem spots filled in.  You know the big emblem in the
front with the hood ornament.  That was filled in with filler.  The chrome
strip on the hood was removed, and mounting holes filled in with lead.
After all the work was done, the entire car was primed.  Then the door went
off and I sanded all the stuff with 400 grit paper.  No primer needed, color
was just fine (no rust either).  But on the outside, the body guy did the
entire car in 400 grit by HAND.  He said orbital would show.  THEN, after
the car was sanded, prep-clean up and base/clear applied.  At the end, the
vinyl roof was prepped and painted.  It was  a BIG JOB.

By the time it was done, with all the body work, materials, hood induction,
new windshield, trim paint (all flat black, chrome sucked on my car so I had
no choice), etc., it came out to $2200 CAN with tax.  So for you US boys,
that would work out to about $1600.  It was a good deal, but I did a lot of
work.  The shop did a TONE of work also, much, much more then me.  I hung
around there every day and learned tons of stuff (guy explained ever step).
Do keep in mind that it was a base/clear job not just enamel, so that adds
to the cost.  Materials cost more, but also labor.  He has to paint the car
three times with base color and two with clear.  That is 5 Vs. only 2 with
Enamel.  It was a good deal.

>But I wouldn't need to screw around with anything inside the door jams if I
>was keeping the same color, yes?  Just get everything on the outside of the
>car off, get the body straight...what am I getting myself into?

If you are not changing the color, screw the 'jams.  Just do the outside.


>But the emblems are cool!


Personal taste.  My dad likes them too, but in a older issue of Car Craft
then painted a Turbo Buick.  They did what I did (I copied them).  Remove
all the emblems and fill the wholes in.  Car looked great.  But, it is up to
your taste.  Just do know, that once you start working on your car, DON'T be
surprised to see a 455 in there in a couple of years, with good Valve-Cover
seal.  I would not be.  It is a domino effect, and it never ends.  SO, if
you do want to do this, pick a car you really like.

Also, when you do sand, use a long, flat sanding block.  This eliminates
pressure points and waves in the paint job.  If you just hold the paper in
you hand, you finger putting pressure will sand "tracks" in the body and you
will NOT see them until the car is done, and then it will look like.....well
you know.  Spend a few bucks and buy proper sanding blocks (a few) and read
a book or two from the library on body work.  I can help with some stuff,
but books never hurt.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 04:56:37 -0500 (EST)
From: Myassachafin@webtv.net (A Sea)
Subject: [none]

subscribe g-body

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 02:00:32 PST
From: "mike jones" <sspazzer@hotmail.com>
Subject: Roll Call

Michael Jones
Livermore, California
Student, Las Positas College, majoring in Auto Tech and Drafting
Age: 21

1978 Oldsmobile Delta 88 2 door.  350/TH350, 104k.  Low-optioned car. 
No royale package.  Y72  HD cooling & Alternator, Y67 Reminder pkg.
Cruise Control, Air Conditioning, California Emissions pkg.

Bought on July 1, 1995 with 61,240 miles for $2k US from Orig. owner. 
First car.

Since purchase, the following modifications have been made.
 
Edelbrock Performer intake manifold
2.5" single mandrel bent exhaust w/turbo muffler 
(CA smog laws prohibit dual exhaust with singlt catalyst cars)
K&N Filter
Rear sway bar from Caprice 4 door
Gage Packge (volts, water temp, oil pressure
Sport Steering Wheel from G body Cutlass
SSII wheels with big center caps 
235/70VR15 tires
Re-built Q-jet carburetor, relocated fuel filter

Future modifications

403 or 455 motor: 
Crower 56262 camshaft (older grind, .461/.486 lift, 210/220           
dur @ 0.050 lift) with springs & lifters
7a or C heads, some bowl work and exhaust runner cleanup
double roller timing chain
OEM oil pump (don't need HV for a stock pan, won't go over           5k 
anyways)     
TH2004R transmission
8.5" 10 bolt rearend w/308 or 3.23 anti-spin
1.25" F-body front sway bar
1.5" Herb Adams VSE rear sway bar
Late model Caprice 9C1 lower control arms 

1990 Olds Custom Cruiser.  307/TH2004R, 104k.  Mom's car.
This car was bought in 1992 with 18k on it.  Learned how to drive     in 
it.  Last of the boxy-style GM wagons.

198? Jeep Cherokee Chief.  173V6 (blown up?)/5 speed  225k?
    
Following is sitting on the lot of the service station I work         
for.  Was left by a motorist 12/21/98.  Hote said they would come     
for it 1/1/99.  Never came back.  Owner took the plates as well.      
Livermore PD ran VIN in Jan. and did not come up stolen.  CA law      
states that if a vehicle is left on private property for 30 days,     
vehicle becomes the property of the land owner.  Really, the jeep     is 
owned by my station now, but I asked to hold onto it.  

Mike Jones

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 05:01:41 -0500 (EST)
From: Myassachafin@webtv.net (A Sea)
Subject: g-body list

can anyone tell me how to get on the G-body list

Thanks
Anthony
84 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 05:25:42 -0500 (EST)
From: Myassachafin@webtv.net (A Sea)
Subject: handling

- --WebTV-Mail-1750576681-60
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit

any sugg.on how to tighten my suspension i have an 84 cutlass which too
much body roll

thanks


- --WebTV-Mail-1750576681-60
Content-Description: signature
Content-Disposition: Inline
Content-Type: Text/HTML; Charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit

<html> <embed 
src="
http://wwwtts.research.bell-labs.com/cgi-user/tts/voicestts-nj?voice=child&text
=olds
mowwbealss   kick  aasss.&audio=.wav"autostart="true">
 


- --WebTV-Mail-1750576681-60--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 06:24:45 -0500
From: "Chris Urban" <urbanch@magi.com>
Subject: Re: Roll Call - Chris Urban

Sorry Greg but no time for that just know. I'll make a detailed list and
send it to you soon.


- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, February 18, 1999 11:43 PM
Subject: Re: Roll Call - Chris Urban


>Chris Urban wrote:
>>
>> Chris Urban
>>
>> 69 442 Conv
>> 72 Hurst
>> 69 Drag car 9.7's
>
>
>
>Chris,
>How about some more info on that 69 Drag car.
>9.7's quarter I presume.  Olds powered?
>Got any pics posted?  Love to hear more!
>
>
>Greg Rollin
>Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
>Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249
>
>Web site:
>http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
>
>E-mail: supercars@transport.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 06:57:54 -0500
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Re: Hood change?

Ben i used a glass hood from U.S. body sourse and an outlaw 2 coul induction
scoop from summit. i did all the work myself. it realy was not hard just a lot
of time. I have had a lot of positive comments on the way it looks. only
drawback is that you have to use hood pins.     Butch  68  442  post

olds442 wrote:

> Is it possible (and feasible for little money) to take a 68 442 and put a
> 69 hood and grille on? Anybody pondered this change? I would love it cause
> the hood scoops are already there, either for ram air or for a "coolant"
> for the engine bay. I've thought of putting a home made scoop on my 68, but
> the labor involved is not much in my specialty... I could have a friend get
> me the metal for free and have another bend it and cut it to my specs...
> But would it be just less labor and easier to put a 69 hood on? what are
> the draw backs? different dimensions? I know there must be something
> difficult with it or else more people w/ 68 or earlier would have done it
> already...
>
> Thanks, Ben

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 07:23:36 EST
From: GraphixRUs@aol.com
Subject: Re: Roll Call - Chris Urban

Me to Chris. 
After the Jason Doby Project , I think our chapter may look into a bracket  or
1/4 mi . project car. 
Let the list know abou t  yours ---Please.
Roger

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 07:23:33 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Paint Prep (Igor)

>>I have a multitide of "Delta 88", "Oldsmobile", "Royale", "Brougham", etc.
>>emblems from junkyards...the problem is that while the chrome looking
parts
>>of the emblem looks fine, the black backing is sometimes (almost always)
>>varied in thickness, given that the emblems were ripped off of cars, and
>>some of the backing stayed on the car.  How should this problem be
>>addressed, if at all?


Scrape the old backing off with a razor. You can get double sided tape made
just for trim applications from an auto paint supply house. Trim to size
with a razor or Exacto.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 07:28:44 EST
From: GraphixRUs@aol.com
Subject: roll call list

So has anyone voluntered to make a printed  list of the "list" to mail to
members  -  self addressed  stamped envelope   of course	.
If anyone does, put me on the list.
Roger Utter

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 07:32:56 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: PAINT PREP BOOKS

>Talkin' about maybe painting my Delta...I know nothing about bodywork.
>Perhaps someone can tell me how I can learn relatively quickly (short of
>taking an internship position at a bodyshop)?
>
>I'm thinking of books, videos, et al...


Petersen and Haynes both publish "how - to" books on basic body work and
painting. Any big auto parts store will have one of them. So does your
library.

The guy who runs this BBS answers paint questions and I believe he has a
video..

http://horizonweb.com/wwwboard/spray_101/wwwboard.html

or do a search on Spray Painting 101

drc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 08:13:17 EST
From: Bowtie911@aol.com
Subject: Re: 65 442 parts car

Tom, if may have missed it, but where might this vehicle be located? Presently
own a 65 442 Holiday Coupe and always looking for parts. Also what do you want
for it?
H. Shaw
Vineland, N.J.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 08:18:47 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: was screen Saver Pics update, now 73-77 cutlass

very true on the side body line comment of 73-75s...inverted 70-72s....
Hot Rod Harry from South Jersey

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 08:20:40 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: W-30 Production Totals

In a message dated 99-02-19 00:59:07 EST, you write:

<<       There were 96 of those built.
 
 Jim Chermack
 C&M Classic Parts
 
 
 At 10:43 PM 2/18/99 , you wrote:
 >Do you know the production totals for Oldsmobile 442 W-30 4-speed
convertibles
 >made in 1970?  >>

Now there are about 2000 out there!! Everywhere you look these days there is a
70 W30 ....Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 08:23:44 -0500
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: *I* Like 73-77 Cutlii, Except For One Thing

Hot Rod Harry Talks About Cutlass Styling After 1972:

> The 73-75 Cutlass' with that wierd side sculpturing , look like some kind of
> car that turns into a boat and is ready to do battle in the ocean.Really 
those
> sides belong on a boat!

Oh, I dunno, I kinda like the sculptured sides.  When I worked at the garage
in my college days, my boss had a nice 73 Cutlass as part of his "fleet".
("Fleet"in quotes because his definition was a car that was perpetually for
sale, but any one of us could throw a repair plate on to run errands, ferry
customers door-to-door, etc.)  It was a beautiful dark blue.  Of course,
it was only 4-5 years old at the time... (showing my age).

My only real gripe about the car is the fact that GM stopped making an
A-body convertible for '73.  And it woulda started in '72 if not for that
big GM strike, luckily for you '72 ragtop owners...



Tim Churchill  tchurchill@draper.com  OCA #30327  Framingham, MA
- ----------------------------------------------------------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, new a.k.a 'Old Gold'
'98 VW Passat GLS Wagon, a.k.a. 'der Kinderwagen'

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 08:29:15 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: roll call list(list)

I second that...I have some of the list but I didnt save in the
begginning...so if someone does have the whole list please email me too..Hot
Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 05:50:55 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: My Cutlass has a problem

> > The noise is a high pitched squeal like a belt but unfortunately I
> > checked them and they are fine.  The noise really starts at about 
> > 2700rpm and it gets progressively worse.
=================================
What kind of fan do you have on that? I put in a low RPM (5,000 max)
flex fan on my Olds and ever since I have had belt squeel. It doesn't
happen unless I get on it from a dead stop. You can also hear a slight
squeel once you get up in RPM's, but it is hard to hear it due to the
duals. :-) Haven't found anything to cure the squeel though! All belts
are tight and brand new! Tried some of that belt dressing on the old
belts and it worked for about a day and then went back to the squeel. :-(
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 08:54:20 EST
From: Dan442Olds@aol.com
Subject: Re: Roll Call/Cotton farmer

No Ray, all John Deere.

2 4450's
2 8300's
1 8400
1 7455

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 09:00:06 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: 75 Hurst Olds/parts too (FS) price now

Lead I put on last night about 75 black Hurst Olds W25 from IL. Real nice car
and Jeff Fieldsend is only asking  5,500 !  His email is dukeofbluz@aol.com
and his phone # is 815-965-5242...again the 75 can be seen on my webpage in
the 73-77 Garage Area.....http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html
 Jeff has alot of parts too for 75 and 74s

Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 09:08:48 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 75 Hurst Olds/parts too/also 74 Hurst Olds (FS) price now

 Lead...He has a 74 Hurst Olds ..whole car , good shape..asking only 800.00.
call Jeff at 815-965-5242 email  Dukeofbluz@aol.com
He also has a 75 Hurst , rough but has the rare red interior thats in good
shape
Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 07:10:37 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Hood change?

If you do decide to do this then make sure you have all the pieces to
un-do it when you grow tired of it.  Whenever I get crazy and start
modifying my car I try to make sure that I have the parts to reverse the
damage later.

A '68/'69 combo would be cool but I would expect the resale value to
decrease because of non-originality.  Also the word Frankenstien does
come to mind. ;o)

olds442 wrote:
> 
> Is it possible (and feasible for little money) to take a 68 442 and put a
> 69 hood and grille on? Anybody pondered this change? I would love it cause
> the hood scoops are already there, <big snip>

Do you mean a '69 hood with the H/O mailboxes?  I haven't seen any other
stock Cutlass hoods with scoops.

> <snip>

I apologize if this sounds old and crabby, but I think you have a
beautiful car just the way it is and I'm not sure if a different hood
would be a big enough improvement to be worth it.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

BTW: My friend has a '68 hood with 2 chrome side-facing vents on the
hood, is there enough space to suck air through those?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 09:22:54 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: *I* Like 73-77 Cutlii, Except For One Thing

Thank you Ralph Nader!

- -----Original Message-----

>My only real gripe about the car is the fact that GM stopped making an
>A-body convertible for '73.  And it woulda started in '72 if not for that
>big GM strike, luckily for you '72 ragtop owners...
>
>
>
>Tim Churchill  tchurchill@draper.com  OCA #30327  Framingham, MA
>----------------------------------------------------------------
>'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
>'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, new a.k.a 'Old Gold'
>'98 VW Passat GLS Wagon, a.k.a. 'der Kinderwagen'
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 09:16:49 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Screen Saver Pics update

Since the cars get no respect as they are, I figure I might as well modify
it to the hilt. They'll learn respect when they catch up with me. How about
462 cid, 10.5:1, 234/244@.050, Torker, 930 cfm, 3000 stall, fiberglass: aero
scoop hood, and bumpers, SSM lift bar suspension, 300 hp nitrous system,
3.91 gears. So I won't be in a screen saver (though it certainly has the
visual appeal) ;-). I have no use for people who try to tell others what
they should and should do to their own cars. If I want to put a blown 502 in
mine, HEY IT'S MINE. I would never use anything other than a rocket in it,
but you get the point. If I want a 12" snorkel scoop on it, don't try to
tell me I should have kept it all original. Hey, it's a 75, remember. "It's
a land yacht," "it looks like a boat, well, a 40 ft. Donzi is big too, but
try to catch it. :-)

More power . . . ugh, ugh.

- -----Original Message-----

>
>:-)  :-)  :-)   too  funny !!!!      I here ya ,   I have a 74 ( along with
a
>68 69 ) and know what you mean.  I also have done a lot of drag racing  and
>what a bunch of greif I get here in western Wa. when I go the car shows for
>haveing all the mods in my car to run 11's .  Such a bummer I quit the
local
>club and goin to there shows.   THe Ore club guys are great though .  But
you
>know what   I love my car  so the heck with them anyway.
>
>Joe Stackman
>

>
><< Ticks me off . . . grumble, grumble . . .  keep your ol' screensaver
anyway
> . . . grumble, grumble . . . (kicking dirt) >>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 09:28:39 -0500 (EST)
From: throckmon@webtv.net
Subject: Re: W-30 Production Totals

gotta agree with hot rod harry on 70 w 30 cars. they must have been
really built, because it looks like they all survived,i think some of
them were breeders too, because there seems to be more coming up every
week.it is amazing what you can do. i know a guy that was looking for F
heads for his newborn.i told him why bother spending $1100,00 bucks when
all you have to do is regrind your E heads carefully.takes only minutes
to knock off the bottom line of the E and vola! instant F heads. he said
it worked like a dream .seriously though,i have been told that the only
way to document an original w30 is with the build sheet.you cant tell
from the firewall plate. is this true? i am curious.i did my car to
national meet standards and have nothing on the car that isn`t on the
build sheet that i found beneath the gas tank insulation and tank.as for
value, i would take a documented non w30 car over a fake anytime. i
think all they have done is increase the value of genuine w30 cars.as
for performance,442`s with air, w30 and non w30 are probably neck and
neck with driver ability being the determining factor.just my friday
morning contribution             throck

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 09:31:34 EST
From: RNenno@aol.com
Subject: Re: Conv't Top Replacement $$

We just recently paid $475 to have ours done by a professional shop.  We
looked into doing it ourselves, but after reading the twelve + pages of
instructions, decided it wasn't worth it.

RNENNO@AOL.COM  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 09:37:39 -0500
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: *I* Like 73-77 Cutlii, Except For One Thing

I said:
> 
> >My only real gripe about the car is the fact that GM stopped making an
> >A-body convertible for '73.  And it woulda started in '72 if not for that
> >big GM strike, luckily for you '72 ragtop owners...

Ed Binnix replies:

> Thank you Ralph Nader!

I dunno about that.  We can blame Mr. Nader, in part or in total,
for a lot of things (demise of th Corvair, 55 MPH, air bags, etc.),
but the temporary death of the covertible in the US probably wasn't
one of them.  I'm under the impression it was more a matter of simple
economics; i.e., the cost of tooling & developing a convertible from
the new body .vs. customer demand, which was waning in the early 70s.
A/C was becoming much more popular, as were sunroofs.

Heck, in '72, there were even a few A-bodies with soft sunroofs.


Tim Churchill  tchurchill@draper.com  OCA #30327  Framingham, MA
- ----------------------------------------------------------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, new a.k.a 'Old Gold'
'98 VW Passat GLS Wagon, a.k.a. 'der Kinderwagen'

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 09:47:42 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Screen Saver Pics update

In a message dated 99-02-19 09:30:13 EST, you write:

<< Since the cars get no respect as they are, I figure I might as well modify
 it to the hilt. They'll learn respect when they catch up with me. How about
 462 cid, 10.5:1, 234/244@.050, Torker, 930 cfm, 3000 stall, fiberglass: aero
 scoop hood, and bumpers, SSM lift bar suspension, 300 hp nitrous system,
 3.91 gears. So I won't be in a screen saver (though it certainly has the
 visual appeal) ;-). I have no use for people who try to tell others what
 they should and should do to their own cars. If I want to put a blown 502 in
 mine, HEY IT'S MINE. I would never use anything other than a rocket in it,
 but you get the point. If I want a 12" snorkel scoop on it, don't try to
 tell me I should have kept it all original. Hey, it's a 75, remember. "It's
 a land yacht," "it looks like a boat, well, a 40 ft. Donzi is big too, but
 try to catch it. :-)
 
 More power . . . ugh, ugh.
  >>
 That sounds like one hot car...send me a pic and I will put her on my cars
webpage...I have Steve Bickers 73 on there and thats another hot car!
Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 09:53:02 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: W-30 Production Totals(65 "442"code)

I dont know about the VIN or Data plate info to verify if its a W30(Lansing)
and thats it.
But for the 65 442 guys I know a way to tell if they are real by the Data
Plate........... are you ready...there is a "4V" on the data plata signifying
the side scoop for the 442 emblem...I have found so many fake ones out there
that way...everyone thinks you can tell just by the frames being different .
Anyone can also add swaybars and correct grilles etc....Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 09:57:16 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Re: Hood change?

This thread reminds me....  Back between X-mas and New Years I spotted what
appeared to be a sharp looking 68 Cutlass ragtop heading south (Possibly from
the Chicago area?) on Indiana 63.  I was in the north bound lanes and as we
passed I saw the back of a sharp looking 69 Cutlass ragtop.  Same car, just a
68 doghouse on a 69.  The car was dark red with a white top.  It looked nice
in spite of the mixing of parts.  I have always liked the 68 front better than
the 69 anyway (I used to have a 68 4-4-2 so I can be prejudiced) so I thought
it was an improvement from a styling point of view.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 10:16:57 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Convertables, was Re: *I* Like 73-77 Cutlii,

Hmmm, curious I was always under the impression that Mr. Nader's saftey
crusade along with insurance pressures played a big part in the temporary
death of the convertable. Obviously, in an accident, a convertable passenger
has a considerably higher chance of being ejected from the car. Granted, I
was too young to pay much attention to these issues at the time, but I
remember my father grumbling about Mr. Nader's meddlesome ways. I have never
read "Unsafe At Any Speed," but I thought it covered much more than the
Corvair and air bags, and that one of those things was the convertable
issue. Please, somone on the list who has read this wonderful piece of
American literature, set us straight.
- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Comid <Comid>
Date: Friday, February 19, 1999 9:37 AM
Subject: Re: *I* Like 73-77 Cutlii, Except For One Thing


>
>Received: from halifax.chebucto.ns.ca [192.75.95.75] by jellico.com with
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> 19 Feb 1999 09:37:39 -0500
>Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 09:37:39 -0500
>From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
>Subject: Re: *I* Like 73-77 Cutlii, Except For One Thing
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Message-id: <199902191437.JAA25343@egbsun27.draper.com>
>X-Sun-Charset: US-ASCII
>X-Orcpt: rfc822;"|/csuite/etc/majordomo/wrapper resend -l oldsmobile -h
chebucto.ns.ca oldsmobile-mml"
>X-Envid: 0F7EOMTBB00DL2@mb2.draper.com
>Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
>I said:
>>
>> >My only real gripe about the car is the fact that GM stopped making an
>> >A-body convertible for '73.  And it woulda started in '72 if not for
that
>> >big GM strike, luckily for you '72 ragtop owners...
>
>Ed Binnix replies:
>
>> Thank you Ralph Nader!
>
>I dunno about that.  We can blame Mr. Nader, in part or in total,
>for a lot of things (demise of th Corvair, 55 MPH, air bags, etc.),
>but the temporary death of the covertible in the US probably wasn't
>one of them.  I'm under the impression it was more a matter of simple
>economics; i.e., the cost of tooling & developing a convertible from
>the new body .vs. customer demand, which was waning in the early 70s.
>A/C was becoming much more popular, as were sunroofs.
>
>Heck, in '72, there were even a few A-bodies with soft sunroofs.
>
>
>Tim Churchill  tchurchill@draper.com  OCA #30327  Framingham, MA
>----------------------------------------------------------------
>'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
>'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, new a.k.a 'Old Gold'
>'98 VW Passat GLS Wagon, a.k.a. 'der Kinderwagen'
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 10:19:43 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Screen Saver Pics update

It's in it's winter home (my shop) in a temporary state of disassembly for
some more mods. Will have it out soon. I'll send a picture then.

- -----Original Message-----

>  >>
> That sounds like one hot car...send me a pic and I will put her on my cars
>webpage...I have Steve Bickers 73 on there and thats another hot car!
>Hot Rod Harry
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 10:40:21 -0500 (EST)
From: Myassachafin@webtv.net (A Sea)
Subject: G-body list

- --WebTV-Mail-131813547-841
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit

Can anybody tell me how to get on the G- body list


- --WebTV-Mail-131813547-841
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Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit

<html> <embed 
src="
http://wwwtts.research.bell-labs.com/cgi-user/tts/voicestts-nj?voice=child&text
=olds
mowwbealss   kick  aasss.&audio=.wav"autostart="true">
 
Thanks                                                        
84 Cutlass


- --WebTV-Mail-131813547-841--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 08:55:23 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Need dimensions for engine cradle.

RARE73OLDS@aol.com wrote:
> 
> dont forget that I also said I use to use the bottom half of a grocery cart 
in
> the early days before I got and engine stand...try it , it works real nice
> with some wood shims where you need them to make the engine steady.

Yeah but where do you buy shopping carts? ;o) 

Well, I saw one on top of a signpost today so maybe I will rescue it.  Really
good timing, I need a shopping cart for a cradle and someone has hoisted one up
and left it on top of a 7' bus stop sign post.  It looked reasonably rusty so I
don't think anyone will mind too much if I liberated it.

I wouldn't take a good one because they cost the stores a bunch and, well,
that's stealing (let's not start that thread again).  But if I can't tell who
this one belongs to and it's just an piece of litter than maybe that's OK.

Thanks for the suggestion Harry, I guess I need to cut the basket off and some
of the bottom out for the "bulge" in the oilpan (and to lower the C.G.).  Then
some 4"x4"'s and 2"x4"'s to hold it up and I should be in business.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 09:03:50 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: G-body list

Sorry, I thought someone had already replied to this.  Go to
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ for full instructions.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 11:10:32 EST
From: Lou0118@aol.com
Subject: Re: Need dimensions for engine cradle.

In a message dated 02/19/1999 10:54:42 AM Eastern Standard Time,
csimpson@ucalgary.ca writes:

<< RARE73OLDS@aol.com wrote:
 > 
 > dont forget that I also said I use to use the bottom half of a grocery cart
in
 > the early days before I got and engine stand...try it , it works real nice
 > with some wood shims where you need them to make the engine steady.
 
 Yeah but where do you buy shopping carts? ;o) 
  >>

I don't remember where I got mine, but I've had it for over 20 years. It's
just the bottom half like Harry said.  I think it's still in my basement.
I wonder what it's worth.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 10:25:10 -0600 (CST)
From: Efton March <eftonm@crss.gar.esys.com>
Subject: Re: A/C setup

I know most of us want to keep our cars fairly stock looking, but has anyone
converted their A/C to use the new type of freon?  Can you use the original
compressor and most other original parts?  I'll be looking at fixing mine in
the 72 S in the not to distant future...

Efton March
72 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 10:59:01 -0600
From: cdemps@lsumc.edu (Dempsey, Charles)
Subject: Re: What A Body radiator for a '71 VC?

Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:

> I've had good success installing a four-row radiator in the 
> 68-72 A-body cars.  Simply order the correct four-row for your 
> car (should be about $250 brand new with a lifetime warranty).  

Hi Joe,

Yup! Modine #365,4 row GM, 28 1/2 X 16 inches. $205.00 at A&I.

> Assuming you currently have a two-row/three-row core support 
> and top plate, you'll need to modify the brackets that hold 
> the radiator.  

My brackets measure 2 3/4 inches wide at the top and taper 
in 3/8 to 1/2 inch towards the bottom. Is that a three 
or four row size?

The '71 shop manual says that an A body, 455 air would have an "EB" code
radiator standard or a "ZK" if heavy duty cooling.

I would like to find a correct radiator, but I need one now and the car
isn't Concours. Perhaps I'm being too picky.

Thanks,
Charles

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 10:43:04 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Hood change?

Guys:
here my op:

> I apologize if this sounds old and crabby, but I think you have a
> beautiful car just the way it is and I'm not sure if a different hood
> would be a big enough improvement to be worth it.

Right, I'd rather work on the baby *under* the hood and let the body stock 
looks alone.

> BTW: My friend has a '68 hood with 2 chrome side-facing vents on the
> hood, is there enough space to suck air through those?

Aehm, if I get this rigth you are talking about the two chrome pieces 
near the windshield parallel to the centerline of the hood? I am sure 
you know that those are fakes (They are not open). Opening them (however 
you want to do this without making a mess.) may bring you a little amount 
of air but sure lotsa water when it rains... 

Here my suggestion:

Why don't you get yourself one of these W-** air scoops that come up from 
left and right under the fender? That sure gives you the fresh air you are 
looking for and will keep your car looking nice from the outside ... And 
if you open the hood it will look really awesome!

Regards, George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. (with a nice stock hood!)
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------        

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 11:54:45 -0500 (EST)
From: Myassachafin@webtv.net (A Sea)
Subject: Re: G-body list

- --WebTV-Mail-2676586-822
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit

Thank you 


- --WebTV-Mail-2676586-822
Content-Description: signature
Content-Disposition: Inline
Content-Type: Text/HTML; Charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit

<html> <embed 
src="
http://wwwtts.research.bell-labs.com/cgi-user/tts/voicestts-nj?voice=child&text
=olds
mowwbealss   kick  aasss.&audio=.wav"autostart="true">
 
Thanks                                                        
84 Cutlass


- --WebTV-Mail-2676586-822--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 10:13:16 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Hood change?

George wrote:
> 
> Guys:
> here my op:
> <snipo>
> Aehm, if I get this rigth you are talking about the two chrome pieces
> near the windshield parallel to the centerline of the hood? I am sure
> you know that those are fakes (They are not open). Opening them (however
> you want to do this without making a mess.) may bring you a little amount
> of air but sure lotsa water when it rains...

That's the one(s), I haven't really looked at it for a couple of years, I
didn't realize that they don't go anywhere, although you're right they would
help keep the motor moist :0
> 
> Here my suggestion:
> 
> Why don't you get yourself one of these W-** air scoops that come up from
> left and right under the fender? That sure gives you the fresh air you are
> looking for and will keep your car looking nice from the outside ... And
> if you open the hood it will look really awesome!

True, True.  I'd like to do that to my '69 some day but I thought it was kind
of expensive for all the hardware.  I'd need to have a spare set of inner
fenders too so I could hack up one set and still go back to stock if I ever
wanted to.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 12:16:53 EST
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rocket Talk

In a message dated 99-02-18 21:04:07 EST, you write:

> 	How's about some Rocket Talk tonight.

Mmmmm.

Sounds good.

Karl will prolly be late, but can stay much longer now.

Start whenever you want, cannot show up til 9pm soonest, 10 more like.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 12:19:14 -0500
From: Thomas Jacquillard <tjacquillard@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: Screen Saver Pics update

Ed Binnix wrote:
> 
> Since the cars get no respect as they are, I figure I might as well modify
> it to the hilt. They'll learn respect when they catch up with me. How about
> 462 cid, 10.5:1, 234/244@.050, Torker, 930 cfm, 3000 stall, fiberglass: aero
> scoop hood, and bumpers, SSM lift bar suspension, 300 hp nitrous system,
> 3.91 gears. So I won't be in a screen saver (though it certainly has the
> visual appeal) ;-). I have no use for people who try to tell others what
> they should and should do to their own cars. If I want to put a blown 502 in
> mine, HEY IT'S MINE. I would never use anything other than a rocket in it,
> but you get the point. If I want a 12" snorkel scoop on it, don't try to
> tell me I should have kept it all original. Hey, it's a 75, remember. "It's
> a land yacht," "it looks like a boat, well, a 40 ft. Donzi is big too, but
> try to catch it. :-)
> 
> More power . . . ugh, ugh.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> >
> >:-)  :-)  :-)   too  funny !!!!      I here ya ,   I have a 74 ( along with
> a
> >68 69 ) and know what you mean.  I also have done a lot of drag racing  and
> >what a bunch of greif I get here in western Wa. when I go the car shows for
> >haveing all the mods in my car to run 11's . 

I was stationed at Ft. Lewis, Wa. Too bad I didn't know you then, could
have had fun. I would like to see pics of it. I currently own a '68
Cutlass w/68 Toro 455, but I enjoy the 73-77 Cutlasses also. My first
cutlass I ever owned was a 73 Supreme. It was a great car.
ttyl, T.J.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 12:31:28 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: 69 Southern Shell

Would anyine have or know anyone who may know the where abouts of a 69
Southern shell (Body)
for a hardtop.  I am only needing the body.  But would be interested in any
parts car as long as the floors and quarters are near perfect.

Any info appreaciated

Thanks

Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 12:26:42 EST
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rocket Talk

In a message dated 99-02-19 12:19:12 EST, you write:

> > 	How's about some Rocket Talk tonight.
>  
>  Mmmmm.
>  
>  Sounds good.
>  
>  Karl will prolly be late, but can stay much longer now.

Too true.
Missed date stamp in Email.
And RT entirely.
Oh well.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 12:28:46 -0500
From: Thomas Jacquillard <tjacquillard@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: My Cutlass has a problem

Rock Man wrote:
> 
> > > The noise is a high pitched squeal like a belt but unfortunately I
> > > checked them and they are fine.  The noise really starts at about
> > > 2700rpm and it gets progressively worse.
> =================================
> What kind of fan do you have on that? I put in a low RPM (5,000 max)
> flex fan on my Olds and ever since I have had belt squeel. It doesn't
> happen unless I get on it from a dead stop. You can also hear a slight
> squeel once you get up in RPM's, but it is hard to hear it due to the
> duals. :-) Haven't found anything to cure the squeel though! All belts
> are tight and brand new! Tried some of that belt dressing on the old
> belts and it worked for about a day and then went back to the squeel. :-(

I also have a flex fan and when I step on it I get a squeal also. I have
done everything I could think of but I never thought of the fan causing
this. How could it? I am running a 68 455 in a 68 cutlass Supreme.
LMK, T.J.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 12:29:24 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: Harry's U-Pull It in Hazelton Pennsylvania.

Ray,
Could you give me direcitons to that place from I-78 in New Jersey (or
if it is closer, Route 309 in Pennsylvania)
Thanks,
Brian.

Master Costanzo wrote:
> 
> Yes, it's all true.  Harry's does have 100+ acres.  The place kicks ass.
> Not a huge selection of  muscle car era cars, but they literally have
> thousands of cars.  And they are all off the ground.  When I went there, my
> brother got a bunch of stuff for his IH Scout, and I got some things for my
> 87 Cutlass.  It's great cause you pull it all yourself and drag it around in
> a cart.  When we went up to the exit to pay, we started telling the guy all
> the stuff we had, and he just kinda glanced down and said, "just give me
> fifty bucks".  So, it was super cheap for all the goods we got.  And the
> place is organized by make and by car/truck/antique/commercial
> truck/etc/import/domestic, etc.  It is worth the trip, absolutely.
> 
> Ray Costanzo
> 87 409 Cutlass (hibernating)
> 84 Calais ($200!)
> costanzo@netcarrier.com
> http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> Greetings all. Anybody been to Harry's ?. I seem to recall some mention
> of this at some point, somewhere in the past.
> 
> I see in the commercials that all cars are suppossed to be off the
> ground, and they have some ridiculous amount of acerage there(thought
> they might have said a 100 in the commercial). Anyway, are the cars
> seperated/organized by make or manufacturer to make things easy to find?
> Or should I take a sleeping bag, and expect to only be able to write
> home on weekends ? ;).
> 
> TIA
> EJ
> --

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 11:37:55 -0600
From: cdemps@lsumc.edu (Dempsey, Charles)
Subject: Re: Screen Saver Pics update

"R. Grant" <kgrant442@home.com> wrote:

> I do like the 75 to 77 Cutlass but I beg to differ the sleekest 
> looking of all Cutlasses has to be the 78-80 Cutlasses.

I don't know if I'd call 'em sleek, but I'm partial to the style. My mom
bought a new white '78 CSB in the fall of '77 and drove it until she got
her '86 CSB. Alas, the '78 got away from us then.

> also these were the last years that you could get the Olds 
> 350 Rocket. By far the best GM small block made.

I never will forget the chinese fire drill when all that stuff came out
about the Chebby engines. Mom bought Oldsmobiles because of the
reputation of the engines (the '78 was her 5th). She'd have fried
somebody's butt in its own fat if that car'd had a Chebby engine in it.
Turned out to be a genuine Olds 350, so we called off the war.

Charles

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 11:21:31 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Hood change?

Hi Cliff, 

As far as I know (don't really know much) you will not have to cut metal to 
install those W air intakes. I think I misled you with talking about 
fenders. The air openings are left and right under the front under the 
fenders of the car. You can guess one opening on the pic on: 
http://www.442.com/bonafide.html 
It is the lowest piece left under the bumper left of the licence plate. 
It is rectangular and about 2in high and 5in wide.

Regards, George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

On Fri, 19 Feb 1999, Cliff Simpson wrote:

> 
> George wrote:
> > 
> > Guys:
> > here my op:
> > <snipo>
> > Aehm, if I get this rigth you are talking about the two chrome pieces
> > near the windshield parallel to the centerline of the hood? I am sure
> > you know that those are fakes (They are not open). Opening them (however
> > you want to do this without making a mess.) may bring you a little amount
> > of air but sure lotsa water when it rains...
> 
> That's the one(s), I haven't really looked at it for a couple of years, I
> didn't realize that they don't go anywhere, although you're right they would
> help keep the motor moist :0
> > 
> > Here my suggestion:
> > 

> > Why don't you get yourself one of these W-** air scoops that come up from
> > left and right under the fender? That sure gives you the fresh air you are
> > looking for and will keep your car looking nice from the outside ... And
> > if you open the hood it will look really awesome!
> 
> True, True.  I'd like to do that to my '69 some day but I thought it was kind
> of expensive for all the hardware.  I'd need to have a spare set of inner
> fenders too so I could hack up one set and still go back to stock if I ever
> wanted to.
> -- 
> 
> Cliff Simpson
> mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
> '69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
> http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 12:55:05 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: twilight sentinel

Hi all,

My friend wants to add the twilight sentinel to his 85 Delta 88. 
Someone said something before about this being part of another package,
but who remembers.....Anyway, I believe that he has the Y67, since he
has the low fuel light, low coolant light, etc.  Not to mention the
funny chime.  Anyway, he saw one on a 81 Delta in a junkyard, and is
dead-set on getting it.  He thinks that it is only a matter of getting a
new swithc and the sensor from the dashboard but I think it may be more
than that, os much more that I wouldn't want to tackle it at all. 
Anyone know anything about this option and how many years of schooling
it takes to acquire it from a donor car?  Also, are these things
reliable?  I would hate to go to the trouble of gettting it and it not
working.
Thanks,
Brian.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1792
*********************************

