
oldsmobile-digest      Saturday, January 9 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1710



RE: the diff between stock 307/HO 307
Re: Cold idle problems
350 Heads on a 330 (or Vice-Versa)
Re: dick miller responds!
Re: Road Test
BB Olds in 83 Cutlass
Re: MSD and Tach again
BB Core Motor Prices
9 motors
Re: BB Olds in 83 Cutlass
Alternative Ignition System (Was Re: my experience with Pertronix..)
Re:  (Non Olds......Sorry)
Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)
alt & dist
Stupid questions?
unsub
Re: order of switches
Tool Humor (NOT Olds related...sort of, but too damn funny!)
Re: alt & dist
Bad Coil (was : Water in gas)
Re: 9 motors
Re: Bad Coil (was : Water in gas)
Re: dick miller responds!
Re: Bad Coil (was : Water in gas)
Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)
' 76 Cutlass "S"info. wanted on pushout windows
Re: Bad Coil (was : Water in gas)
Re: Bad Coil (was : Water in gas)
Re: Bad Coil (was : Water in gas)
Re: Bad Coil (was : Water in gas)
Re: ' 76 Cutlass "S"info. wanted on pushout windows
Re: 9 motors
1917 Oldsmobile 1 ton truck
Re: Motor Break In...My 2 cents
SV: (Non Olds......Sorry)
Re: NASCAR   [was: Re: READ ME: H**p the Olds Cause! ]
Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
Re: Alternator / Steering / Ignition
Re: 15x10s on a Delta
Re: Stupid questions?
Re: Valve clearance
Re: suspension upgrade/rebuild advice needed
Re: SV: (Non Olds......Sorry)
81-88G Body List Guys, I need your assistance, ASAP!!
Re: Cleaning Tanks
Mike B and ICQ
Re: More 330/350 questions
Re: dick miller responds! Last comment.
Re: Increasing Bolt Patter
Re: info book

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 17:22:46 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: the diff between stock 307/HO 307

- -----Original Message-----
Mark
there are not alot of big differences in the standard code Y -307 and the
code
9 -307
code 9 is the HO . A big difference in the engines is in the machining
tolerences , the HO
has very tight machining tolerences . and also the HO engine has a bigger
cam
and it's also
a roller cam .

Didn't all 307's have roller cam starting in 85?  This is true, yes?

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 Calais
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo


The trans. in the cars with the HO engine (442s) have a shift kit in it also
.


mark
87 442
71 cutlass s
68 442 convertible , someday

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 16:26:14 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Cold idle problems

Nari, 
Acceleration pump or choke, sound more like choke since idle speed
increases as engine warms up, fast idle isn't working right, and engine
speed will pick up just from the engine warming up, 
Lou
- ----------
> From: Nari Koka <koka10@yahoo.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Cold idle problems
> Date: Wednesday, January 06, 1999 9:08 PM
> 
> I am new to car repairs.  I am working on my 82 Olds Delta 88 to fix
> the cold running problems - more obvious in the winter.  The car over
> all is running great.   It has a V8 5 liter engine, 4 barrel carb.
> 
> It starts in the morning and stops right away.  After giving gas it
> starts and stops again.  After I do this several times and pressing
> gas pedal a lot it finally stays on.  Once the engine is hot, there is
> no problem.
> During this period if I tried to press the accelerator it back fires
> into the carburettor very loudly.
> 
> After the engine starts, the idling is slow and after some time, it
> increases - I would expect it the other 
> way.
> 
> Can anyone tell me how the cold idle is supposed to work?
> 
> The vacuum wiring was a mess.  When I looked at the diagram under the
> hood, there is a component marked DVDV that should be between the
> vacuum port and the idle load compensator (ILC).  That is missing on
> this car and I could not get the dealer find it for me.  It seems like
> the ILC is always active (retracted).  What is the role of vacuum on
> this car?  What is the vaccum break unit?
> 
> I could not find a book that explains how the cold start and idle work
> on this car.  There are very few references to this car in the
> manuals.  Are there other cars that are exactly the same and has more
> manuals avaialbe?
> 
> Thanks very much
> Naren
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 16:41:45 -0600
From: "Dave Rench" <renchd@krause.com>
Subject: 350 Heads on a 330 (or Vice-Versa)

Just want to confirm that this is an okay swap (not that I doubt Joe P.,
since he is one of the most knowledgeable guys on the list).  I had gotten
the impression (probably wrong) that 330's had the 45 degree cam bank angle
and 350's are all the more common 39 degree angle and that swapping heads
from one CBA engine to the other would lead to some geometry problems in
the valvetrain and possibly pushrods rubbing.  Where did I go wrong?  Are
330's 39 degree CBA motors or is the CBA difference not of consequence when
swapping heads? 

Dave Rench
1970 Cutlass W-31
1983 Cutlass 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 16:53:27 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: dick miller responds!

Don, 
I knew that!
Lou

- ----------
> From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: dick miller responds!
> Date: Thursday, January 07, 1999 11:59 AM
> 
> Sx455@aol.com wrote:
> > 
> > i cant believe you guys
> 
> Snipping a bit here
> 
> >......i bet all you guys loved senator
> > mccarthy didnt ya?   i can guarantee theres more to the
> > story!!
> 
> Senator who?  Finally, somebody on this list older than me!!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 16:34:40 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Road Test

Brought back many memories!!!, thanks, 
Lou

- ----------
> From: Gutlass66@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Road Test

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 16:53:33 -0600
From: "Dave Rench" <renchd@krause.com>
Subject: BB Olds in 83 Cutlass

Here's the situation.  I've got a 83 Cutlass (307,TH250,7.5 open 2.14:1). 
I'd like put an Olds 425 into the car.  I've got the motor.  I've got an
8.5 2.73:1 posi rearend (1972 4-4-2) that I think I can install with the
southside machine control arms.  I'm guessing I should be looking for a
TH350 or TH400 to put behind the motor.  Not having done a swap like this
before, I'm looking for advice, feedback etc. from somebody who has gone
the route.  Things like what motor mounts to use, cooling issues, exhaust
manifolds or headers to use, linkage etc,etc, etc.  If you've got detailed
info, feel free to e-mail me off-line so that we don't clog the list.  

Thanks.

Dave Rench
1970 Cutlass W-31
1983 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 17:52:35 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: MSD and Tach again

Jeremy,

A-HA!  Take a good look at the connectors to your dash -- my 80 Starfire's
tach is erratic at times, but a good whack on the dash usually gets it to
settle down.  I need to disassemble my dash and clean my dash connectors, it's
just a real involved thing on the Starfire, takes lowering the steering column
to get it out.

Clean 'em up with a pencil eraser on both sides and reconnect, then try it and
see if it still does it.  The voltmeter was a clue, since they all have to go
through a connector to the panel.

Good Luck, and Take Care!

Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 17:00:57 -0600
From: "Dave Rench" <renchd@krause.com>
Subject: BB Core Motor Prices

My third (and last I promise) question of the day.  What is a fair price
for 66-67 Toro 425 motors (complete from aircleaner to oil pan) of unknown
condition?.  The motors are still sitting in cars.  Owner unsure of whether
they ran or not when parked.  Would the value be the same for 68-70 Toro
455's?  

Dave Rench
1970 Cutlass W-31
1983 Cutlass 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 17:10:19 -0600
From: "Joe Centanni" <jacentan@crown.icongrp.com>
Subject: 9 motors

We know that the cam, harmonic balancer, valve springs and carb are
different between y and 9 motors and the exhaust, what else s there the
wrist pins and what else can anyone give development info on this motor and
give us an definitive answer..I"m trying to figure out why so much was
different when, lets face it the motors strike fear into the hearts of no
one(No flames I own an 87 442 I"m just being realistic, want to build an
olds 350 or put in my 87 GN motor)........The HO 305 chevy was far more
advanced for the time 9.5 comp. increase timing on premium pump gas,
etc...........so why the big diff's on the Olds 9 motors?......Was there
more in store at least in oone point in time , ideas that were stillborn at
the plant.....or were they beating a dead dog knowing that the Olds motor
was going o no longer have a place in GM products?
I can t answer these questions and I'm not trashing Oldses especially 442's
since I own one but it does seem a bit strange that all this effort was put
into a limited run vehicle whaen it couldn't run w/ the competition...Any
insiders that can shed light?
			Thanks and dont hate me
			Jeremy 87 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 16:10:27 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: BB Olds in 83 Cutlass

> Here's the situation.  I've got a 83 Cutlass (307,TH250,7.5 open 2.14:1).
> I'd like put an Olds 425 into the car.

Been there, done that, even got the greasy T-shirts to remember it by...  ;)

Here, check out this page of mine, might shed some light on things for ya.

http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet/bbswap.htm

As for 425 prices, it's really an arbitrary choice.  Without knowing anything of
their condition, it's hard to put any value on it.  I paid $400 for my 67 Toro
complete, no carb or wheels, after sitting that way for like 10 years.  "Engine
ran great, always meticulously maintained" etc etc etc...  BS!  Didn't look like
it'd ~ever~ seen an oil change...  Anyway, I'd paid $800 for my prior 425,
complete, but one stipulation was that I had to take it's car with it...  67 98
cvt...  Sure, twist ~my~ arm!  :)

Then you can find the abandonned ones for $50 to $100, or even get ~paid~ for
hauling it off.  Those are the fun ones to find!  :)  As for value, it's not
something to just spit out, since it varies ~sooo~ much...




Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 18:32:10 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Alternative Ignition System (Was Re: my experience with Pertronix..)

Ladies/Gents,

Here's another ignition system to consider, it's easy to install, trouble-
free, and could be disguised if you wanted that "original" look.  It's the
Stinger ignition system, Dave Smith sells them and I have used them both on
the street and up to 6800 RPM on our stock car back in 1992.  It doesn't have
the plastic parts that seem to be the problem with the Pertronix, there's a
pickup coil to mount on the supplied plate that takes the place of the point
plate and points.  A pole piece is press-fit over the rub block on the center
shaft and the unit is reassembled.  The ignition box is hardly the size of a
box of kitchen matches (approx. 2" X 4" X 1" deep) and the unit works with the
stock resistor wire for the coil and with the stock coil as well.

I plan on going with the MSD box and a computer HEI distributor because I have
the parts and want to use a hotter coil that is a no-no with the Stinger.  But
for the cost and trouble-free performance I'd opt for the Stinger in a
relatively stock or mildly built performance engine.

Dave Smith Engineering:  (909) 371-7040  Tell Dave or Karen I sent you -- it
won't help at all, but I'm trying to persuade them they need to get some
presence on the Internet.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 18:35:53 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: Re:  (Non Olds......Sorry)

Tony Waldner wrote:

> > Bla blah blah....
>
> Why don't you guys just answer his question...and if you can't help him
> then shut the f*ck up.  I am sick of these wasted threads.    I find it
> funny that the people who don't know jack about cars are the ones who
> expect help with their stupid questions and then give guys who really want
> some help answers like these.
>
> Tony
>

The normal cycle usually lasts three or four days, right? 
I feel like I qualify to reply since I "don't know jack about cars" either.
Thanks for the invite.

By the way, neosoft has a listing of alot of Internet mailing lists.  You
may want to go there and look around in the subject indexes. I tried
automotive and didn't see a MC list. Maybe GP, chevy, pontiac,etc
Link below....

http://www.neosoft.com/internet/paml/indexes.html


Donny Arnold
w.d.arnold@lmco.com

72  Olds 442  
41 Chevy 
63 Chevy Truck


   

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 18:02:16 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)

NO ONE HAS A VEGA LIST, I'VE TRIED EVERYWHERE!, can't even find someone to
give it to!
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

- ----------
> From: Arnold, W D <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
> To: 'olds' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Re:  (Non Olds......Sorry)
> Date: Friday, January 08, 1999 5:35 PM
 
> The normal cycle usually lasts three or four days, right? 
> I feel like I qualify to reply since I "don't know jack about cars"
either.
> Thanks for the invite.
> 
> By the way, neosoft has a listing of alot of Internet mailing lists.  You
> may want to go there and look around in the subject indexes. I tried
> automotive and didn't see a MC list. Maybe GP, chevy, pontiac,etc
> Link below....
> 
> http://www.neosoft.com/internet/paml/indexes.html
> 
> 
> Donny Arnold
> w.d.arnold@lmco.com
> 
> 72  Olds 442  
> 41 Chevy 
> 63 Chevy Truck
> 
> 
>    

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 18:42:16 EST
From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Subject: alt & dist

When I go to the parts store to buy an internally regulated alternator
for my '69 Cutlass, what kind of car do I tell them I need one for?  Any
mid 80's Cultass?  Does engine size make a difference as to what kind
of/size alternator the car has?  For example, today I just went to check
on a price (about $60), and I asked for an alternator for a '85 Cutlass
with a 307.  Parts Guy came up with a 94 amp alternator.  Is this 10SI or
12SI?  I want a 10SI, thought they were 63 amp.

Do I need to worry about getting an HEI from a non computer controlled
car for it to work with my car?  Or will any HEI from an Olds SB work? 
What years would ~not~ be computer controlled?

Sorry for asking the list about this...I know it's probably in the FAQ,
but I don't have internet access to be able to read it.  I've just got
the free Juno email. 

Please respond privately to dpauliso@juno.com if you feel your answer is
inappropriate for the entire list.

Thanks!

Dave Paulison       1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida   1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com
  

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 18:42:16 EST
From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Subject: Stupid questions?

 tonwald@eta.k12.mn.us (Tony Waldner) writes:
>...the people who don't know jack about cars are the ones who
>expect help with their stupid questions 

I thought the reason for the existence of this list was so you could ask
'stupid' questions of people who knew the answers.  

The only stupid question is the one not asked...


Dave Paulison       1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida   1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 19:27:04 EST
From: DHickel296@aol.com
Subject: unsub

unsubscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 20:02:21 EST
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: order of switches

In a message dated 99-01-07 23:54:30 EST, you write:

>For those with convertibles with cruise control or those who know, what
>is the order for the lights, top, cruise switches on a 70 442.
>
>I've seen from left to right (while seatd in the drivers seat facing
>forward)
>
>Lights\Top\Cruise & Lights\Cruise\Top but never Cruise\Lights\Top
>
>Which one is right?
>
>

i have a 71 w30442 conv. , and on mine it go`s -  lights/wiper
switch/cruise/top .  if you ever seen the back side of a dash there are 3
places for elect. type switches.   on station wagons the slot for the power
top is used for the rear tailgate.  actually they use the same switch, so if
you ever run across a wagon in a salvage yard get the switch and keep it as a
spare for your conv. top. 1 ;]     steven, w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 20:24:10 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Tool Humor (NOT Olds related...sort of, but too damn funny!)

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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In a message dated 1/8/99 10:04:25 AM Central Standard Time, Tismikey writes:

<< 
 Mechanic's Tool Guide
 -=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-
 
 HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is us=
 ed
 as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the obje=
 ct
 we are trying to hit.
 MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboar=
 d
 cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes
 containing seats and motorcycle jackets.
 ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their
 holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling
 mounting holes in fenders just above the brake line that goes to the rear
 wheel.
 PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads.
 HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
 principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motio=
 n,
 and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your
 future becomes.
 VISE-GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads.  If nothing else is available,
 they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of you=
 r
 hand.
 OXYACETELENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable
 objects in your garage on fire.   Also handy for igniting the grease insi=
 de
 a brake drum you're trying to get the bearing race out of.
 WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and
 motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or =BD
 socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes.
 DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat me=
 tal
 bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings
 your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted pa=
 rt
 you were drying.
 WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere unde=
 r
 the workbench with the speed of light.  Also removes fingerprint whorls a=
 nd
 hard-earned guitar callouses in about the time it takes you to say,
 "Ouc...."
 HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering a motorcycle to the ground after =
 you
 have installed your new front disk brake setup, trapping the jack handle
 firmly under the front fender.
 EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering a motorcycle upward of=
 f a
 hydraulic jack.
 TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.
 PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbor to see if he has another hydraulic
 floor jack.
 SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for
 spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot.
 E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and =
 is
 ten times harder than any known drill bit.
 TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup.
 TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile
 strength of ground straps and brake lines you may have forgotten to
 disconnect.
 CRAFTSMAN =BD x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool that
 inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end withou=
 t
 the handle.
 BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid f=
 rom
 a car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that your
 battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought.
 AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.
 TROUBLE LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth.  Sometimes called a drop
 light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is
 not otherwise found under motorcycles at night.  Health benefits aside, i=
 ts
 main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate tha=
 t
 105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of =
 the
 Battle of the Bulge.  More often dark than light, its name is somewhat
 misleading.
 PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style
 paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as
 the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads.
 AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning po=
 wer
 plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels b=
 y
 hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts last
 tightened 60 years ago by someone in Springfield, and rounds them off.
 PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracke=
 t
 you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
 HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses =BD inch too short.
  >>


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Subject: Fwd: [Fwd: FW: Tool Humour (fwd)]
Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 11:04:25 EST
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        Laury Sisko <minnow@seacove.net>, Carolyn Montoya
	<cmont92433@aol.com>,
        George & Jeanne Covert <geojean@centraltx.net>,
        Sam White <samw7@juno.com>, Carlos & Anne Munoz <munozc@tyler.net>,
        Rick Martinez <MartinezGR@aol.com>,
        Eva & Scott Hughes <dshemh@juno.com>,
        "Kira's Friend" <briansbabe@usa.net>,
        Ofelia Thomas <ofelia_thomas@hotmail.com>,
        Robert Harmon <rkharmon@hotmail.com>,
        "Garcia, Juan" <GarciaJ1@hood-emh3.army.mil>,
        Carey Repasz <c.repasz@wordnet.att.com>
Subject: [Fwd: FW: Tool Humour (fwd)]
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From: "Erik Zeek" <zeekec@mad.scientist.com>
To: <zeekec@mad.scientist.com>
Subject: FW: Tool Humour (fwd)
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- ---------- Forwarded message ----------

Okay, you have to be kind of mechanically-inclined to appreciate some of =
the
humor here...


Mechanic's Tool Guide
- -=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-=3D-

HAMMER: Originally employed as a weapon of war, the hammer nowadays is us=
ed
as a kind of divining rod to locate expensive parts not far from the obje=
ct
we are trying to hit.
MECHANIC'S KNIFE: Used to open and slice through the contents of cardboar=
d
cartons delivered to your front door; works particularly well on boxes
containing seats and motorcycle jackets.
ELECTRIC HAND DRILL: Normally used for spinning steel Pop rivets in their
holes until you die of old age, but it also works great for drilling
mounting holes in fenders just above the brake line that goes to the rear
wheel.
PLIERS: Used to round off bolt heads.
HACKSAW: One of a family of cutting tools built on the Ouija board
principle. It transforms human energy into a crooked, unpredictable motio=
n,
and the more you attempt to influence its course, the more dismal your
future becomes.
VISE-GRIPS: Used to round off bolt heads.  If nothing else is available,
they can also be used to transfer intense welding heat to the palm of you=
r
hand.
OXYACETELENE TORCH: Used almost entirely for lighting various flammable
objects in your garage on fire.   Also handy for igniting the grease insi=
de
a brake drum you're trying to get the bearing race out of.
WHITWORTH SOCKETS: Once used for working on older British cars and
motorcycles, they are now used mainly for impersonating that 9/16 or =BD
socket you've been searching for the last 15 minutes.
DRILL PRESS: A tall upright machine useful for suddenly snatching flat me=
tal
bar stock out of your hands so that it smacks you in the chest and flings
your beer across the room, splattering it against that freshly painted pa=
rt
you were drying.
WIRE WHEEL: Cleans rust off old bolts and then throws them somewhere unde=
r
the workbench with the speed of light.  Also removes fingerprint whorls a=
nd
hard-earned guitar callouses in about the time it takes you to say,
"Ouc...."
HYDRAULIC FLOOR JACK: Used for lowering a motorcycle to the ground after =
you
have installed your new front disk brake setup, trapping the jack handle
firmly under the front fender.
EIGHT-FOOT LONG DOUGLAS FIR 2X4: Used for levering a motorcycle upward of=
f a
hydraulic jack.
TWEEZERS: A tool for removing wood splinters.
PHONE: Tool for calling your neighbor to see if he has another hydraulic
floor jack.
SNAP-ON GASKET SCRAPER: Theoretically useful as a sandwich tool for
spreading mayonnaise; used mainly for getting dog-doo off your boot.
E-Z OUT BOLT AND STUD EXTRACTOR: A tool that snaps off in bolt holes and =
is
ten times harder than any known drill bit.
TIMING LIGHT: A stroboscopic instrument for illuminating grease buildup.
TWO-TON HYDRAULIC ENGINE HOIST: A handy tool for testing the tensile
strength of ground straps and brake lines you may have forgotten to
disconnect.
CRAFTSMAN =BD x 16-INCH SCREWDRIVER: A large motor mount prying tool that
inexplicably has an accurately machined screwdriver tip on the end withou=
t
the handle.
BATTERY ELECTROLYTE TESTER: A handy tool for transferring sulfuric acid f=
rom
a car battery to the inside of your toolbox after determining that your
battery is dead as a doornail, just as you thought.
AVIATION METAL SNIPS: See hacksaw.
TROUBLE LIGHT: The mechanic's own tanning booth.  Sometimes called a drop
light, it is a good source of vitamin D, "the sunshine vitamin," which is
not otherwise found under motorcycles at night.  Health benefits aside, i=
ts
main purpose is to consume 40-watt light bulbs at about the same rate tha=
t
105-mm howitzer shells might be used during, say, the first few hours of =
the
Battle of the Bulge.  More often dark than light, its name is somewhat
misleading.
PHILLIPS SCREWDRIVER: Normally used to stab the lids of old-style
paper-and-tin oil cans and splash oil on your shirt; can also be used, as
the name implies, to round off Phillips screw heads.
AIR COMPRESSOR: A machine that takes energy produced in a coal-burning po=
wer
plant 200 miles away and transforms it into compressed air that travels b=
y
hose to a Chicago Pneumatic impact wrench that grips rusty bolts last
tightened 60 years ago by someone in Springfield, and rounds them off.
PRY BAR: A tool used to crumple the metal surrounding that clip or bracke=
t
you needed to remove in order to replace a 50 cent part.
HOSE CUTTER: A tool used to cut hoses =BD inch too short.





- --part1_915845050_boundary--

- --part0_915845050_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 20:43:56 -0500
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: alt & dist

>When I go to the parts store to buy an internally regulated alternator
>for my '69 Cutlass, what kind of car do I tell them I need one for?  Any
>mid 80's Cultass?  Does engine size make a difference as to what kind
>of/size alternator the car has?  For example, today I just went to check
>on a price (about $60), and I asked for an alternator for a '85 Cutlass
>with a 307.  Parts Guy came up with a 94 amp alternator.  Is this 10SI or
>12SI?  I want a 10SI, thought they were 63 amp.

Ask for a 74-79 Cutlass 350 alternator and you will be sure of getting the
right one. (Actually any GM from this period will be ok, I believe). The
mounting will be the same but you will need to splice in the correct plug to
fit the connections. The parts store can give you one of these too.
A 12Si will also work but you may have a little more trouble mounting it. It
will also not look as close to stock as the 10SI.

>Do I need to worry about getting an HEI from a non computer controlled
>car for it to work with my car?  Or will any HEI from an Olds SB work?
>What years would ~not~ be computer controlled?

Yes you need a non-computer controlled HEI. Again anything from a 74 to 79.
In this case it needs to be from an Olds since the distributor shaft is
different than other GM HEI.
You also need to eliminate the resistor wire that goes to the points
distributor and replace it with a 12 ga. wire. There is a spot marked IGN on
your fuse block that you can plug it into. The wire that goes from your
starter to the points dist. can also be eliminated. You don't need it. If
you get your HEI at a junk yard, also get the plug connector with several
inches of wire attached. you can splice that onto your 12v source wire from
the IGN spot on your fuse block.
I will try to send you info from the FAQ that shows an easy way of jumpering
your current voltage regulator to by pass it's mechanical points and still
retain your "alternator" light on your dash.
Email me direct if you have any other questions. I'll try to answer them
from my fading memeory of this job.
Better still, drive up to Melbourne and I'll show you. :-)
==============================================
Mick Gillespie, Melbourne, FL
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 20:46:06 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Bad Coil (was : Water in gas)

    I was having the exact same symtoms, as you are currently describing, with
my 65 Cutlass(330). It would run intermitantly. Sometimes it would run very
strong...sometimes it would stuble under anything but VERY light throttle. I
was perplexed. I changed the original 65 fuel pump...still there. I changed
the fuel filter...still there! I was in the process of trying to diagnose the
problem, when it dawned on me that it could be the 3 month old MSD Blaster 2
coil. ....nah! So on a whim, I put the 34 year old Delco-Remy old , rusty,
crusty back in...and guess what...that's right. It runs like a dream. I am
wondering if I missed something when I installed the new coil. I was under the
impression that MSD had at least as good QC 
now that GM had 35 years ago! The 'off idle' bog is also mostly nonexistant
now. 

Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 20:50:17 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: 9 motors

> it does seem a bit strange that all this effort was put
> into a limited run vehicle whaen it couldn't run w/ the competition...Any
> insiders that can shed light?

Here's one of the "rumor mills" that was being tossed around early in
84....

At the time, there was talk of this new gigantic GM 502 engine that was
going to be a horrificly expensive option on the new "442" that was
going to emerge.  My dad, who worked for GM at the time, was telling me
stuff that he heard about in the GM ranks.  I'm not sure when the 502
actually appeared on the market, but it was supposedly going to be
offered in the 85 442.  Now at the time, the Hurst/Olds was available,
and no mention of a 442 was going to be born.  But it was kinda nice to
hear about.

Also, I read this in one of the hot rod mags in the early 80s that big
engine versions of the GM G-bodies was planned, to be backed by a
TH400.  Thus the trans tunnels were a bit bigger to accomodate this
plan.  Don't know how true that was, but I heard/read about it from
different sources.  Of course it never came true, but there WAS reports
of a big block MC SS running around the proving grounds.  I guess the
CAFE standards was feared not being met, who knows.  It woulda been neat
though.

More controversy....

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 21:12:02 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bad Coil (was : Water in gas)

The coil is what I said 3 days ago.Along with a few other items.Stuff drives
you nuts. Harry from NJ     
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">1973 Olds Cutlass 455
4speed</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 02:56:11 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: dick miller responds!

S 'ok ed that is why i chose not to shout at you about it thought you might
be a little stressed out no problem just think calm thoughts about driving
that 70 442 W-30 ragtop in the summer in California or something take care
KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: Edward Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, January 07, 1999 10:32 PM
Subject: Re: dick miller responds!


>sorry, I was in caffeine withdrawals, lookin for a fight. "i'm" OK now. Had
>my fix. I've also been snowed in with a 2 and a 4 year old. To the list,
>forgive my venom. That DM response really struck a nerve.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>
>>
>>ed ralax there you go flaming the list you are trying to defend
>>and if i dont want to use the "shift" key i wont i also dont care to use
>>punctuation this is not being graded you know.....KK
>>Just Kidding see I can use the "shift" key and punctuation.
>>
>>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 21:03:51 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Bad Coil (was : Water in gas)

GT5726@aol.com wrote:

>     I was having the exact same symtoms, as you are currently describing, with
> my 65 Cutlass(330). It would run intermitantly. Sometimes it would run very
> strong...sometimes it would stuble under anything but VERY light throttle.

Yup.  Exactly.

> when it dawned on me that it could be the 3 month old MSD Blaster 2
> coil. ....nah! So on a whim, I put the 34 year old Delco-Remy old , rusty,
> crusty back in...and guess what...that's right. It runs like a dream.

 No fr*akin' way!  I've got the MSD Blaster 2 coil also...and it's just about 6
months old.  WELL NOW...I think I know what I'm gonna be doing in the morning.  I
got my coil for the same reasons most do, better power, economy, etc.  I guess
maybe the design is a tad flawed.  Anyway, I still have the other coil, which was
working fine. It won't cost anything to swap back and see what happens.

Thanks for replying.  You may have saved me a load of money.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 21:24:13 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)

when can I come and get it?

- -----Original Message-----

>
>NO ONE HAS A VEGA LIST, I'VE TRIED EVERYWHERE!, can't even find someone to
>give it to!
>Lou Biggs
>lbiggs@intertek.net
>
>----------
>> From: Arnold, W D <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
>> To: 'olds' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>> Subject: Re:  (Non Olds......Sorry)
>> Date: Friday, January 08, 1999 5:35 PM
>
>> The normal cycle usually lasts three or four days, right?
>> I feel like I qualify to reply since I "don't know jack about cars"
>either.
>> Thanks for the invite.
>>
>> By the way, neosoft has a listing of alot of Internet mailing lists.  You
>> may want to go there and look around in the subject indexes. I tried
>> automotive and didn't see a MC list. Maybe GP, chevy, pontiac,etc
>> Link below....
>>
>> http://www.neosoft.com/internet/paml/indexes.html
>>
>>
>> Donny Arnold
>> w.d.arnold@lmco.com
>>
>> 72  Olds 442
>> 41 Chevy
>> 63 Chevy Truck
>>
>>
>>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 21:22:52 EST
From: Bbymks4@aol.com
Subject: ' 76 Cutlass "S"info. wanted on pushout windows

           Hey everyone, I have a question about pushout windows, they are
listed as
   a factory option in my Oldsmobile book, has anyone ever seen these windows?
   Do they exist? If they do does anybody know where some of these windows
are,
   or where they might be found?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 21:26:52 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bad Coil (was : Water in gas)

In a message dated 1/8/99 8:13:59 PM Central Standard Time, RARE73OLDS@aol.com
writes:

<< The coil is what I said 3 days ago.Along with a few other items.Stuff
drives
 you nuts. Harry from NJ    >>


Amen to that!

Collyn

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 21:16:44 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Bad Coil (was : Water in gas)

RARE73OLDS@aol.com wrote:

> The coil is what I said 3 days ago.Along with a few other items.Stuff drives
> you nuts. Harry from NJ

Yes, you did.  And I took note of it.  I thought of it, too, before I posted on
the list, but I was thinking, "This coil is practically new, and it's an MSD.
It's gotta be okay."  But, I guess I erred in thinking that a nearly brand new
part just HAD to be okay.  Sometimes hearing someone else mention their brand
new part that also went bad really drives it home.  I'm appreciative to anyone
who tries to help.  After I swap back tomorrow, we'll see what happens.  Thanks
again.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 21:32:52 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bad Coil (was : Water in gas)

Good luck tomorrow with the coil, I hope its that so you can just enjoy
driving your Olds again..Harry from NJ

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 21:39:04 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bad Coil (was : Water in gas)

In a message dated 1/8/99 8:18:08 PM Central Standard Time,
smithtp@ix.netcom.com writes:

<< No fr*akin' way!  I've got the MSD Blaster 2 coil also...and it's just
about 6
 months old.  WELL NOW...I think I know what I'm gonna be doing in the
morning.  I
 got my coil for the same reasons most do, better power, economy, etc.  I
guess
 maybe the design is a tad flawed.  Anyway, I still have the other coil, which
was
 working fine. It won't cost anything to swap back and see what happens.
 
 Thanks for replying.  You may have saved me a load of money.
  >>


Sorry I waited so long ...I was lurking on this thread for a few days...until
mine started acting up on me this afternoon. being as how I am soooooo lucky
to have a 442 clone as a daily driver( or unlucky , if you ask a few close
friends...haha), I HAD to fix this beast tonight or drive a very nice REAL 65
442 to work . I took the advise of the folks on the list...ignoreing the coil
comments from RARE73OLDS. Not that I didn't feel he could be correct,I just
assumed that my new coil couldn't possibly be at fault. I did relay my
findings immediately upon pulling the cars back into the shop. 
I hope this turns out to be your problem too, as I think we will BOTH feel
more at ease. Your car will run better, and I will feel confident that it was
my apperant problem as well. Good luck tommarrow, and let us know if it is the
sorce of the problem for your car as well.

Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 21:39:59 EST
From: Bbymks4@aol.com
Subject: Re: ' 76 Cutlass "S"info. wanted on pushout windows

            Sorry, I forgot to sign my name

          your replies are appreacited

         Thanks from.....Steve M.
         1-73 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 22:12:20 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: 9 motors

You need to remember that the Olds "9" code 307 came out in late '82.  At
the time the 305 Chevy engines were not putting out as much power.  GM
simply did not elect to spend any more $ developing the Olds engine in
subsequent years as I suspect the decision to go with the cheaper Chevy
engine as the "corporate" pushrod V8 has already been made.
Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 20:51:45 -0800
From: Clyde W Jones <cwjones@nwrain.com>
Subject: 1917 Oldsmobile 1 ton truck

Gentlemen,
Before I attempt to restore it,can anyone tell me if is rare,or not?My
last attempt at restoration(1946 Chev Cabover)is almost done,and I need
to line up my next project.
It is missing some parts.I might need assistance locating them.Can you
put me on the right list?Thanks.C.W.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 00:33:32 EST
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: Motor Break In...My 2 cents

In a message dated 1/7/99 9:54:42 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rockman20@yahoo.com writes:

<< ================================================
 I tried running a synthetic in my Olds. I didn't like it. The oil
 pressure would drop to about 15 at an idle! The oil pressure
 fluctuated so bad and it really didn't run the greatest. I switched
 back to CAM2 15W-40. My Olds seems to love that oil.
  >>
I ran 2 days, 70 mile round trip, w/arounds 2 qts of Mobile 1, and thank god
the Olds 350 didnt seize up. My Oil guage was running a little low, and I
thought it was just the guage !! The 70 mile round trip was highway and stop n
go city traffic. I wouldnt break in a motor on synthetic, but its def worth
the added protection.

Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 06:30:15 +0100
From: "Trond Pedersen" <trondped@c2i.net>
Subject: SV: (Non Olds......Sorry)

> NO ONE HAS A VEGA LIST, I'VE TRIED EVERYWHERE!, can't even find someone
to
> give it to!
> Lou Biggs
> lbiggs@intertek.net


Lou. 
have you tried to transfom it into a barbeq?
my lokal club did it ones with a F*rd.
chop the topp off, out with the interior, 
putt briks in it to isolate it from the heat.
charcoal. a match and away we go.
great way to get something usefull out of a f*rd

Trond-Jarle

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 00:36:13 EST
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: NASCAR   [was: Re: READ ME: H**p the Olds Cause! ]

In a message dated 1/7/99 10:54:31 AM Eastern Standard Time,
w.d.arnold@lmco.com writes:

<< 
 My vote for the GM NASCAR stepchild is, of course, Olds but, I'll keep
 pulling for the Pontiac (Pontiac = Passed On Nascar Track In All Corners) 
 until the triumphant return of Olds. 
  >>
Im a Dale Jarrett fan, along w/Jeff Burton. Anybody but Gordon !!!!
 Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 22:36:48 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

Check around at various Olds dealers.  A few years ago you could
still get them from GM.  Worth at least a shot.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>I'm searching for a front left and right fender for my Cutlass convertible.
>My first choice would be a set of new fenders.  My second choice would be a
>set of used fenders in good to excellent condition.  Does anyone know where
>I could find these fenders?
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 23:07:55 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator / Steering / Ignition

As far as figuring out what this box will give you over your current 
box all you have to do is turn it lock to lock to measure how far it
rotates the pitman arm shaft.  Doing this on the bench box and the
one on the car will give you something to compare.  Mark the 
shaft itself and measure how far on the case it moves from one
lock to the other.  If the bench box rotates the same with fewer 
turns on the input shaft you have a higher ratio box.  You will 
not be able to get a tighter turning circle because that is determined
by the physical stops rather than the box (could be wrong, should
have stops).

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme
  
>I have a GM power steering gearbox sitting on my workbench.  I don't know
>what make/model GM it is from (I do believe it is from an early 70's
>model), but it ~will~ physically bolt in place of my current power
>steering gearbox.  The gearbox on the workbench has something like one
>full turn ~less~ lock to lock than the original one in the car ('69
>Cutlass).  My quetion:  How can I tell if it's a quick ratio gearbox that
>will give me a similar turning radius with a quicker lock to lock than my
>current gearbox, or one that will simply reduce my turning radius with no
>quick ratio if I put in my car?  Is there a way to tell by taking it
>apart?  There has to be some internal differences between the different
>types of gearboxes (especially the quick ratio ones).  I want to make the
>steering in my old Cutlass quicker and more responsive.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 22:29:51 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 15x10s on a Delta

Igor,
Any proper machine shop should be able to redrill your axles and drums
for any bolt pattern.  Drilling the drums isn't as critical as they will
(should)
center up on the axle.  The rims should center up on the axle also (that's
the way it's ~supposed~ to be anyway).

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>So I tried to fit on my Cragar SS 15x10s on my Delta and they don't fit.
>The rear bolt pattern is the bigger
>4" 3/4 Vs. 4" 1/2 on the front.  The cragars look like they would fit the
>smaller bolt pattern so I will have to get rid of them and get new wheels.
>I was rather disappointed as these wheels are in decent shape and I can't
>really afford to get 4 new wheels.  Igor.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 00:01:47 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Stupid questions?

> tonwald@eta.k12.mn.us (Tony Waldner) writes:
>>...the people who don't know jack about cars are the ones who
>>expect help with their stupid questions 
>
>I thought the reason for the existence of this list was so you could ask
>'stupid' questions of people who knew the answers.  
>
>The only stupid question is the one not asked...


Completely agree.  I'm willing to bet that every Olds guru on this
list have asked thier fair share of stupid questions at some point
in thier "Oldsmocation".  You can only learn so much from ~other~
peoples mistakes before you have to go out and make your own.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme
 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 23:25:33 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Valve clearance

With any cam over .550 lift the clay check is a very, very good idea.
Right now is the perfect time to do it as you have the motor apart
and what does it cost you?  Try it and you'll see who's really right.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme


>Dave Smith says I will be ok with no valve clearance notching on the
piston,
>but do a clay check for the hell of it.
>
>Mondello says it wont work, scrap the chevy pistons and buy a set of
pistons
>from him.   Imagine that.
>
>No input from Dick Miller yet..
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 23:38:24 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: suspension upgrade/rebuild advice needed

If you really want to upgrade look at the F body spindle swap.  This
combined with the KYB's gave my 72 amazing cornering with the
stock springs and only a front sway bar (7/8" i think).  No matter
how big a bar you put on it, the inherent front geometry will make
it nothing more than a band aid.  Basic benifits of the swap are
better tire wear, less body roll, bigger brakes (disc), and the
ability to handle well with stock rate springs.  Before you spend
big bucks on the trick of the week from Global West or Hotchkis
try the spindles and KYB's first.  Can be done fairly cheaply and
will give you the most noticable improvements.  On rubber vs.
poly, the rubber is fine unless you really like to push your car.  If
you want that last little bit of cornering go with the poly, but if
you want ride quality stick with the rubber.  To conserve bandwidth
feel free to contact me direct about specifics for the spindle swap
and a list of sources.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>I am in the process of rebuilding/upgrading the suspension on my 72 Cutlass
>Convertible.  I am looking for a firm (but not harsh) ride with less body
>roll.  Would a 1 1/4 inch front swaybar with a 1 inch rear bar be overkill?
>I will probably have the stock spec springs and KYB Gas Shocks.
>
>I am also undecided about polygraphite vs rubber bushings.  I am leaning
>towards using the stock rubber bushings because of the recommendation in
>Supercars Unlimited catalog.  Any comments?
>
>Darrin Johnson
>djohnsn@ibm.net
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 01:07:08 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: SV: (Non Olds......Sorry)

Trond Pedersen wrote:

> > NO ONE HAS A VEGA LIST, I'VE TRIED EVERYWHERE!, can't even find someone
> to
> > give it to!
> > Lou Biggs
> > lbiggs@intertek.net
>
> Lou.
> have you tried to transfom it into a barbeq?
> my lokal club did it ones with a F*rd.
> chop the topp off, out with the interior,
> putt briks in it to isolate it from the heat.
> charcoal. a match and away we go.
> great way to get something usefull out of a f*rd
>
> Trond-Jarle

LOL pretty cool Trond-Jarle
although i do like their trucks
hope it was a Fairmont

Mark Hahn

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 01:50:50 EST
From: JJP442@aol.com
Subject: 81-88G Body List Guys, I need your assistance, ASAP!!

Hi Guys, 
My 87 442 is in desparate need of a drivers door w/ all options, My present
door is falling off and falling apart (rust). Picked up new upper hinges from
GM yesterday, $40 a piece if your wondering. I'm from N.Y. and having a real
hard time finding a clean rust free door. If any of you have a door for sale
or know of one please let me know. Preferably without the chrome trim, less
chance for rust . If it helps 81-87 B@#$k Regal doors are an exact match too!
I would be willing to travel if not ridiculously far. Will consider all
options.

Counting on my "Car Chronies",
E-mail Direct Please
John-Queens N.Y.
JJP442@aol.com
1983 H/O
1987 442

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 01:08:38 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Tanks

After trying in vain and just wanting to have a nice, detailed 
engine compartement for a street rod just run a piece of tape
down the side where the "fill" & "full" marks are and paint
the d@mn thing.  Can still see how much is in it and covers 
up the discoloration.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 02:30:37 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Mike B and ICQ

how come your never on anymore?
kelly erickson
1966 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 07:43:46 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: More 330/350 questions

>2. If I get a hold of a 350 block, will the intake and heads from the 330
>fit?

The pushrod angles on the two motors might be different; double-check the
clearance on the pushrod holes, and bore them out if there is
anyinterference. Also, the smaller combustion chambers will raise the
compression of the engine significantly (depending which 350 you start
with), so you may find you need to run premium gasoline.

>4. Smoke was coming out of the valve cover breather and low down on the
>engine on the passenger's side. Is this a sign of a cracked block or
>something else? 

Engine blowby and a valve-cover leak, most likely.

>5. The whole upper end did not sound like it was oiling and it shook
>violently when it was running. Im not sure if that means anything major,
>but it was something I noticed. 

That does not sound good; the oil passages in the pushrods could be clogged up.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 03:21:15 EST
From: GraphixRUs@aol.com
Subject: Re: dick miller responds! Last comment.

  That probably was the prednisone talking , not me. 
  After reading all of the responses,  Dicks answer was correct , just in a
hurry, what with all the questions he gets.
  I know that here at Rowland Graphics, I sometimes get questions that I
wonder for a minute why they asked it. Then I realize they don't understand
the whole process or they wouldn't be asking the question.
Dick , I  apoligize.
  Roger

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 02:36:30 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Increasing Bolt Patter

Igor,
Much simpler and easier to just redrill the axles to 4 3/4.  
Should be fairly cheap for a good machine shop to do.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

>Does anyone know if a bolt pattern can be increased on a set of Cragar SS
>rims from 4 3/4 to 5 inch.  Thanks.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 04:31:38 EST
From: GraphixRUs@aol.com
Subject: Re: info book

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- --part0_915874299_boundary
Content-ID: <0_915874299@inet_out.mail.aol.com.1>
Content-type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

It is a restoration guide.
It  contains repros of dealer  promos, spec. charts, etc.
One page is a repro of the : Olds Marketing Department Bulletin
                                         Subject: Option W27 
                                          Description  & picture
                                           Manufacturers" Suggested Retail
Price .  . $157.98
 I consider it to be very informative.

Attatched : is a copy of  the  Jason Project  we put in our newsletter.
Thanks for your interest.
Roger Utter

- --part0_915874299_boundary
Content-ID: <0_915874299@inet_out.mail.aol.com.2>
Content-type: application/octet-stream;
	name="JASOND~1.001"
Content-transfer-encoding: base64
Content-disposition: inline



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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1710
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