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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1705


oldsmobile-digest      Thursday, January 7 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1705



Re: 425/455 block id help needed
Re: front end geometry and spindle extenders..
Re: exploding batteries
Re: Windshield and Backglass leaking
Thomas Martin, Local Machine Shop
Re: Motor Break In
Re: exploding batteries
Re: Water in Gas?
Shot peening con rods
Re: [Thomas Martin, Local Machine Shop]
Re: Water in Gas?
Emissions Testing - Virginia specs?
1953 vette, $140,000?????????????
Re: Cats and tachs
Re: Water in Gas?
Re: Water in Gas?
Re: 15x10s on a Delta
Re: Motor Break In
Re: exploding batteries
Re: Water in Gas?
Re: Water in Gas?
Re: 1953 vette, $140,000?????????????
Exploding Batteries!
Re: 69 parts for sale
Notch them rods
dick miller responds!
RE: Notch them rods
Re: Notch them rods
Re: 69 hood differences
Re: dick miller responds!
Re: Water in Gas?
Re: dick miller responds!
Re: dick miller responds!
Alternator / Steering / Ignition
RE: dick miller responds!
Please post  on Bulitien Board
Parting a '67 CS...
Re: dick miller responds!
Cold idle problems
Re: Oldsmobile Homecomming Show
Re: Water in Gas?
Re: Shifter problem
Re: Alternator / Steering / Ignition
Re: Shifter problem
Re: dick miller responds!
message TO dick miller
Olds Item on Ebay
Re: dick miller responds!
Re: message TO dick miller
Cleaning Tanks
clock questions
READ ME: Help the Olds Cause! send to: dmracing1@aol.com
Re: clock questions
Re: clock questions
RE: Cleaning Tanks
Re: Olds Item on Ebay
Re: Cryogenics
Re: dick miller responds!

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 15:38:55 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 425/455 block id help needed

...The other is a 68 or 69 455, marked F5 in the bell area.
 I'm confused, as i thought the lower the bellhousing area "F" #, the
thicker/older the
block was....
________

Dave, can't speak to the 425 block, but all the 455s that I've seen conform
to the bellhousing F-number corresponding to roughly the age of the block.
In other words, all the 68 blocks that I've seen are "F" or "F0" blocks,
the 71 block that I'm currently working on is an "F2", and the mid-70s
marine block that I have is an "F6".  Are you sure that the 455 you have is
a 68-69?  What's the VIN-derivative number say?  Keep in mind that this may
have been a service replacement block; if so, the dealership _should_ have
stamped the block with the VIN-derivative number of the original block.

And yes, conventional wisdom holds that the lower the F-number, the better
the block quality for hi-po use - for 455s, which were cast in the late
60s-early 70s period when reduce performance and fuel economy concerns
resulted in lower nickel content and thinner walls later in the production
run.  I doubt this applies to 425s, for example, which were obviously all
cast in the early to mid 60s.

============

Can someone tell me where the "drillspot" is that is mentioned in
Mondello's tech book?
__________

The drillspot is located on the vertical rib that runs front-to-back on the
shelf behind the water pump, adjacent to the oil fill tube.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 15:56:34 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: front end geometry and spindle extenders..

John,

Good thoughts, but unfortunately using a spindle extender is exactly the
same as using taller spindles.  The result is that the upper A-arm is too
long and you'll either need to use the offset cross shaft/excessive shim
solution (which may not be an option with a big block and headers) or the
custom upper control arms.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 15:12:19 -0600 (CST)
From: Donald B Cart <dcart@micro.ti.com>
Subject: Re: exploding batteries

Daniel,
 
 Have you considered updated your charging system to an
internally regulated generator ? I just did this on the
72 Cutlass and it is fairly simple. The directions are
on the FAQ page at 442.com or drop me a private email.
 
Don
72 Cutlass Conv
90 Calais I-Series

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 16:22:09 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Windshield and Backglass leaking

>My Q is can I use some clear silicone for the long term(provided there's no
>rust)around the edge of the windshield?  I don't *want* to take the glass
>out but, if there's no other option, I will.

I'd be sure it's rust; if you're going to fix it eventually, now is as good
a time as any, since that rust will only get worse.

>I KNOW the right way is to take it out and put in a new roll of goop (seal)

and fix the rust...

>and reinstall the glass. AND when I have time I WILL. I just need something
>that will buy me some time here.
>
>Anybody had experience with this? 

Doesn't always seal (I've had cars with the entire channel filled with
silicone that still leaked; nothing short of a 1" thick bead all around the
windows will guarantee sealing against rain, and even that amount might
leak!).

>I will only drive it occasionally in the next few months and hope to take it
>to the dragstrip a time or two. After this June, it'll be parked
>indefinitely while I'm enjoying the arrival of my 3rd kid in 3
>years.(Sheesh... tell me about it !! I have *finally* figured what caused
>that...)

All I have to say is get it done *before* the child is born; after that,
it'll never get fixed... ;)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 15:09:57 -0600
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: Thomas Martin, Local Machine Shop

Before I had problems with my 'puter and then went on vacation, Thomas
Martin asked me for the address and Phone number of the Machine Shop
that  I was going to bring my crank to.  This is it,

	General Engine & Machine Incorporated
	9112 Terminal Ave
	Skokie, IL 60077-1514
	(847) 966-7466


Ask for Frank.

I'll be bringing in my crank later this month or eaarly next.  

Also, Dick Miller and Mondello sell the exact same part number for a
crank bearing, but their installation instructions are different.  Joe
has you bore the crank .001" less than the bearing diameter for a press
fit while Dave has you overbore it by .001" and machine the crank for a
snap ring that he encloses with the bearing.  My trusty Olds shop manual
shows the '65 cranks being a press fit.  I believe I'll go the Mondello
route of this one.  Naturally the price is still better from Dick Miller
though.


Good to be back and many thanks to Greg B. for taking care of my list
troubles(and the list in general).

Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 16:25:27 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Motor Break In

>By now I have about 800 miles on my 455 and quite a few hours or run time.
>I have change the oil and filter three times by now.  I have never noticed
>any "break in" symptoms with the motor.  I never noticed the difference in
>ring seal (I don't even know how to).  The motor ran good from minute one,
>no oil burn or nothing at first.  What am I looking for to indicated that
>the motor is breaking in.  Igor.

Well, you may notice a gradual performance improvement as the engine holds
its cylinder pressure better, but there will not usually be any sudden
signs. If it's not smoking or clattering, and the oil pressure is good,
then I'd say you've got yourself a broken-in engine. If you really wanted
to confirm its status, check cylinder pressure and see if it's in spec; if
so, then you're all broken in and ready to rock! :)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 15:41:15 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: exploding batteries

        YES! It sounds like now your over charging due to the tweaking
the
voltage regulator got.
- ----------
With the new batter and new regulator, check the charging voltage. I
believe the battery was over charged, probably to the tune of 18+ volts.
With a fully charged battery, the alternator should put out somewhere
around 13.5 to 15 volts. As a battery charges, the voltage required to
charge the battery goes up, to overcome the rise in the battery's stored
voltage.

A quick test to determine if a battery is a candidate for holding a
charge is to charge it on high for 3 minutes, all the while monitoring
the charging voltage. If the voltage exceeds 17 or 18 volts, it is
discarded to the recycling pile. A dead cell or one or more cells that
will not take a charge are a cause of the charging voltage being this
high.

When charging a battery, keep a volt meter hooked up so I can
continually monitor the charging voltage, until you are confident about
the battery's condition, and so you can check it from time to time. And
don't charge a frozen battery! Thaw it overnight in a safe place.

Good thing the hood was down and no one was around when it exploded!
- --
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 16:26:35 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Water in Gas?

>  The way this goes is kinda strange.  The car will be running fine, then
>  I'll get this hesitation and misfiring.  After a few minutes it will be
>  normal again for some time.  It may happen the next time I use the car,
>  or it may not.  Like I say, it's intermittent.  >>
> TTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTTT
> Thomas,
>
> I have to go with the fuel pump as your problem. When the car starts to fail,
> does it buck and act like it is running out of gas?

Exactly.  It was fine coming home from work today...for awhile.  Then it 
started
this bucking thing again.  It's much worse when trying to accelerate.  Then it
pretty much got better.  I ran it a few minutes more and it came back.  All I
know is the tank is full, I've got fuel system drier in it and have run it for
several miles.  This is getting more frequent.  I'm gonna replace the fuel 
pump,
just to be safe.  This one was one the car when I got it.  I just don't trust
it.  Any other advice from anyone?

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 15:43:58 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Shot peening con rods

I've read somewhere that all Olds rods were shot peened at the factory.
Maybe someone found that in Mondello's tech manual. Can anyone second
this? They are like pieces of art compared to some other divisions'
rods.

- --
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: 6 Jan 99 15:16:07 MST
From: RSTOMN <restoman@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Thomas Martin, Local Machine Shop]

oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:
Before I had problems with my 'puter and then went on vacation, Thomas
Martin asked me for the address and Phone number of the Machine Shop
that  I was going to bring my crank to.  This is it,

	General Engine & Machine Incorporated
	9112 Terminal Ave
	Skokie, IL 60077-1514
	(847) 966-7466


Ask for Frank.

I'll be bringing in my crank later this month or eaarly next.  

Also, Dick Miller and Mondello sell the exact same part number for a
crank bearing, but their installation instructions are different.  Joe
has you bore the crank .001" less than the bearing diameter for a press
fit while Dave has you overbore it by .001" and machine the crank for a
snap ring that he encloses with the bearing.  My trusty Olds shop manual
shows the '65 cranks being a press fit.  I believe I'll go the Mondello
route of this one.  Naturally the price is still better from Dick Miller
though.


Good to be back and many thanks to Greg B. for taking care of my list
troubles(and the list in general).

Paul Brillhart


>Is that the same Frank from the old Touhy Automotive?
in Skokie?

RESTOMAN

____________________________________________________________________
More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://home.netscape.com/netcenter/mail

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 17:45:31 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Water in Gas?

What about your carb? I know you said you rebuilt it. Also sounds like the
accelerator pump in carb is bad.  Harry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 17:56:58 -0500 (EST)
From: Kevin Wong <brougham@geocities.com>
Subject: Emissions Testing - Virginia specs?

Vehicle exhaust emissions testing was recently introduced to the
greater Toronto area.  Non-4WD will be tested on a chassis dynamometer,
using a setup where results are sent directly to a central facility.  
The operator's computer screen remains blank!  Also, they will not
release the pollutant test limits for the various model years, etc.  I
just heard that they used Virginia's Air Check program as a template.
Does anyone have the VA test limits or know where I may find them?
Thanks!

Kevin Wong       mailto:brougham@geocities.com       Toronto, Ontario, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 17:34:37 -0500
From: "Erik Gertsen" <ainode@frontiernet.net>
Subject: 1953 vette, $140,000?????????????

ooooooooops one too many t's in the addy. read the bottom and look at this
url, you probably get a good laugh.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <MAILER-DAEMON@viper.ebay.com>
To: <ainode@frontiernet.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 1999 2:03 AM
Subject: failure notice


>Hi. This is the qmail-send program at viper.ebay.com.
>I'm afraid I wasn't able to deliver your message to the following
addresses.
>This is a permanent error; I've given up. Sorry it didn't work out.
>
><oldsmobile@chebutcto.ns.ca>:
>Sorry, I couldn't find any host named chebutcto.ns.ca. (#5.1.2)
>
>--- Below this line is a copy of the message.
>
>Return-Path: <ainode@frontiernet.net>
>Received: (qmail 12841 invoked from network); 6 Jan 1999 07:03:10 -0000
>Received: from komodo.ebay.com (216.32.120.47)
>  by viper.ebay.com with SMTP; 6 Jan 1999 07:03:10 -0000
>Mime-Version: 1.0
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>To: oldsmobile@chebutcto.ns.ca
>From: ainode@frontiernet.net
>Subject: Interesting item on eBay web site item#54032316: 1953 Corvette,
Excellent Condition
>X-Mailer: <smsmtp>
>
>LOL! check out this auction. this is hilarious.
>particularly the price of this car!
>
>Erik
>
>Title of item: 1953 Corvette, Excellent Condition
>Seller: dillaha@vt.edu
>Starts: 01/04/99 17:33:08 PST
>Ends: 01/11/99 17:33:08 PST
>Price: Starts at $140000.00
>To bid the item, go to:
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=54032316
>
>
>Item Description:
> 1953 Corvette, VIN E53F001196, Excellent Condition - Not Restored!
>This is car number 196 of the 300 Corvettes that were manufactured during
1953, the first year
>Corvettes were produced.  It is classic polowhite with the original red
leather interior, 96,000 miles,
>and it runs good.  To the best of my knowledge, it contains all of its
original parts and has never been
>restored, except that my brother, its former owner (Tansil Dillaha),
repainted it after he accquired it in
>the early eighties.  This car is special because it has not been restored.
Most 1953 Vettes have been
>extensively restored, have replacement engines, etc. The car was on display
at the Indianapolis Motor
>Speedway Museum in the 80s and is now displayed at the Museum of
Automobiles on Petit Jean
>Mountain in Morrilton, Arkansas. Prospective buyers should check the car
out at the Museum of
>Automobiles.  Payment by certified cashier's check only.  Buyer is
responsible for all arrangements
>and expenses associated with pickup and delivery of vehicle from the Museum
of Automobiles.  For
>additional information on the car or to arrange a visit to see the car,
please e-mail me, dillaha@vt.edu,
>or call me at 540-544-4444 (home) or 540-231-6813 (office phone after Jan
11).
>
>Here are a few photos of the car and a copy of the title with the VIN.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Visit eBay, the world's largest Personal Trading Community at
http://www.ebay.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 18:03:33 -0500
From: "The Cremeans" <ccremean@edcen.ehhs.cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Cats and tachs

I have an AutoMeter Tach and MSD 6A box on my '73 Cutlass. So far, I haven't
had any problems. The ONLY problem i had was where to mount the Tach without
drilling holes in my perfect dashboard. It ended up under the ash tray. Oh
well, that's okay cuz I don't smoke in it anyway. But I may someday need all
the change in there to buy an emergency part! :-)

- -Matt Cremean
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
1975 Oldsmobile Cutlass S
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/

- -----Original Message-----
From: Joe Centanni <jacentan@crown.icongrp.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, January 05, 1999 1:49 AM
Subject: Cats and tachs


>Speaking of CC's the latest study is that they may be bad for the
>environment*L*...G'ment bullshit!...They now possibly think that what they
>put out is worse than what goes into them and yes this is true but it is a
>study at this point any future references will gladly be shared w/ u when I
>get them.........Anyone else have a problem w/ an MSD and tha tach
>funcioning correctly, mine reads high and flutters and I know its not he
>6/8 switch on the back this only happened afgter the MSD and if I hook the
>tack directly to the MSD box the car won't start (they told me to)
> Later
> Jeremy 87 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 18:08:19 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Water in Gas?

RARE73OLDS@aol.com wrote:

> What about your carb? I know you said you rebuilt it. Also sounds like the
> accelerator pump in carb is bad.  Harry


Already checked it.  It's fine.  I've been through all that with a
fine-toothed comb.  Thanks anyway.
- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 18:47:16 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Water in Gas?

Good job!!! Carb stuff can drive you nuts. How many miles are on the timing
chain, watch that too, most of my fuel pumps would just go dead on the spot.
What year car was she again. Harry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 16:51:09 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 15x10s on a Delta

So I tried to fit on my Cragar SS 15x10s on my Delta and they don't fit.
The rear bolt pattern is the bigger
4" 3/4 Vs. 4" 1/2 on the front.  The cragars look like they would fit the
smaller bolt pattern so I will have to get rid of them and get new wheels.
I was rather disappointed as these wheels are in decent shape and I can't
really afford to get 4 new wheels.  Igor.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 16:55:44 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Motor Break In

>Well, you may notice a gradual performance improvement as the engine holds
>its cylinder pressure better, but there will not usually be any sudden
>signs. If it's not smoking or clattering, and the oil pressure is good,
>then I'd say you've got yourself a broken-in engine. If you really wanted
>to confirm its status, check cylinder pressure and see if it's in spec; if
>so, then you're all broken in and ready to rock! :)

Small increase in performance and the small clutter I had from before seems
to be gone (or much quieter, however it was never loud).  Oil pressure was a
little high at start but now seems to be getting better.  Warm at idle in
Drive (red light) it reads about 38-30 PSI, sometimes a bit over 30, still a
little high when cold though.
I have been driving it hard since Day one cause I just could not resist
after I dropped it in instead of the 307.  Lots of tire-smoke and a ticket
to prove it :-)

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 19:05:02 -0500
From: Andy Mikesell <andymikesell@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: exploding batteries

I had this happen a few winters ago to an Interstate battery.  The battery
was about 2 years old (on a 60 month warranty), so I took it back to the
garage where I  bought it.  The garage manager gave me a replacement, no
questions asked.  A few weeks later I was thumbing through the back of
Consumer Reports and sure enough, my battery had been recalled for "possible
leaks".  I'd say!
- - Andy

Daniel R. Gerow wrote:

> hello all,
>
> well, seems the Cutlass will be denting my wallet once again.  Can
> anyone riddle this one to me.  I've been having some electrical
> trouble.  New voltage reg (external), and alternator didn't solve it.
> So my mechanic friend takes the cover off the voltage reg and pushes the
> bottom flex plate in...no more electrical problems.  I wasn't charging.
> He said the bottom plate was too far out and wan't making contact.  This
> was last week.  So, I am now back at school, 120 miles from home.  A
> friend and I went to go out to dinner this evening.  Got in the car and
> started her up.  About 50 seconds into the warm-up process, a very large
> noise and rattle startled us.  Sounded like someone broke something up
> against the fender.  Got out of the still running car to find "water"
> running out from under the hood.  Opened it up, and there it wasn't!
> Large pieces of battery everywhere!  My damn battery exploded.  I
> couldn't believe it.  So, is this caused from overcharging or what?  I'm
> really at a loss here.  Thanks for the help all.
>
> Daniel R. Gerow
>
> '69 4-4-2
> '71 Cutlass Supreme
>
> PS - battery acid hurts alot.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 19:07:50 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Water in Gas?

RARE73OLDS@aol.com wrote:

> Good job!!! Carb stuff can drive you nuts. How many miles are on the timing
> chain, watch that too, most of my fuel pumps would just go dead on the spot.
> What year car was she again. Harry

It's a 1971 Cutlass S, 350 and TH350 tranny.  The thing that bewilders me about
this is that it comes and goes.  That's what lead me to believe I just had 
water
in my gas, given the scenario I mentioned in my original post.  According to my
step-dad, who gave me the car, the timing chain has around 40,000 miles on it.
I DO NOT race or abuse the car in any way.   I change oil and filter regularly
and keep it tuned up.  I thought of timing chain, too, but would the problem
come and go with that?  I've never had a timing chain break or stretch on me.  
I
know, bookwise, what can happen, but sometimes first-hand experience is unique.

As for the fuel pump idea, I'm wondering if the diaphragm could have developed 
a
hole small enough to still allow the pump to move fuel, but large enough that I
now have marginal fuel pressure.  It obviously still pushes fuel, so I don't
think removing the fuel inlet and watching for fuel flow would reveal much.
- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 19:31:13 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Water in Gas?

It could also be your coil, if it is going bad it could do that too, your
condenser in the distributor, and make sure your pcv is working ok, not
blocked or anything, also check vacuum connections. I know it must be driving
you nuts. That kind of stuff drives me nuts and it always turns out to be
something simple. Lots of luck Harry 
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">1973 Olds Cutlass 455
4speed</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 19:35:55 EST
From: CUTLASS442@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1953 vette, $140,000?????????????

In a message dated 1/6/99 2:57:05 PM Pacific Standard Time,
ainode@frontiernet.net writes:

<< 54032316 >>
$140,000 for a 'vette?!?!?!?!?!?!?
hahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
thanks for the daily bit of humor. that is funny

richard
cutlass442@aol.com
1967 "oldsmobuick" Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 16:55:45 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@yahoo.com>
Subject: Exploding Batteries!

     I had a battery explode before. Many years ago, I had a 69
Cutlass with headers on it. One day I went to start the engine, and
BOOM!!!! The battery exploded!      The positive battery cable must
have been routed too close to the headers, because later investigation
showed that the insulation has burnt off the cable right near one
header tube. It must have been touching ~just~ enough that particular
time to cause a DEAD SHORT!
     Needless to say, I route/check/tie down my battery cables very
carefully now! :)






     
 
==
"2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our cars, trucks and a whole lot more at
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 20:04:53 EST
From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Subject: Re: 69 parts for sale

Dino,

I don't need the whole car, just wondering how much of it you had to sell
for parts.  Tell me how much rust is on the backside of the bumper and
how deep it is into the metal (deep pits, surface rust, etc)  I'm not
sure what brackets, etc I need.  I'll figger it out next week.  Do you
have a hood?  I'm looking for a 69 Supreme hood, not an S or 442 hood. 
Any other parts for sale?

Thanks,

Dave


></A> i might sell the whole car   the bumper is ok not perfect the 
>core
>support is rusted through under the battery i have all the front 
>peices at the
>moment
>
>Thanks
>Dino
>

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 20:04:53 EST
From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Subject: Notch them rods

What is notching, and how is it done?  Is it something I can do myself,
or do I have to pay Machine Shop Guy to do it?

>Also, you only need to polish the sides of the rods and get them 
>notched.


Dave Paulison                    1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida                1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 20:12:25 -0500
From: "Ken" <olds442@en.com>
Subject: dick miller responds!

Below is the response I got from Dick Miller when asking him about valve
clearance on my motor.  Keep in mind I've spent afew hundred dollars with
him in the past.  This is a cut and paste of the entie message.  Looks like
he's trying to earn that first name of his..

- ---------------


"ask the people you bought your parts from"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 20:17:36 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Notch them rods

Dave!  You're using Juno!  That is the best!  I can't use it because they
don't have a local number for me.  dont' ever get Outlook or any fancy kinda
stuff.  It all sucks!

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 Calais
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Dave Paulison
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 1999 8:05 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Notch them rods


What is notching, and how is it done?  Is it something I can do myself,
or do I have to pay Machine Shop Guy to do it?

>Also, you only need to polish the sides of the rods and get them
>notched.


Dave Paulison                    1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida                1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 20:25:31 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Notch them rods

The Mondello book and catalog describe it in detail. Basically, you put a
1/2" wide by ?? deep (can't remember) notch on both sides, top and bottom of
the big end of the rod. It allows more oil to escape the rod bearing and
return to the pan quicker. It's one of the tricks that corrects the oiling
problems (i.e. too much oil in the top end) and helps keeps the pan from
being sucked dry under higher RPM conditions. It is best done by a machine
shop or one of the Mondello gurus around the country (my personal choice).

- -----Original Message-----
>
>What is notching, and how is it done?  Is it something I can do myself,
>or do I have to pay Machine Shop Guy to do it?
>
>>Also, you only need to polish the sides of the rods and get them
>>notched.
>
>
>Dave Paulison                    1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
>Palm Bay, Florida                1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
>dpauliso@juno.com
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 20:27:45 -0500
From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: Re: 69 hood differences

Is there any differencebetween a 69 Cutlass S and 442 hood.  Wayne
Schwartz

Dave Paulison wrote:
> 
> Dino,
> 
> I don't need the whole car, just wondering how much of it you had to sell
> for parts.  Tell me how much rust is on the backside of the bumper and
> how deep it is into the metal (deep pits, surface rust, etc)  I'm not
> sure what brackets, etc I need.  I'll figger it out next week.  Do you
> have a hood?  I'm looking for a 69 Supreme hood, not an S or 442 hood.
> Any other parts for sale?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Dave
> 
> ></A> i might sell the whole car   the bumper is ok not perfect the
> >core
> >support is rusted through under the battery i have all the front
> >peices at the
> >moment
> >
> >Thanks
> >Dino
> >
> 
> ___________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
> or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 20:28:22 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: dick miller responds!

Dang, real nice guy. So much for giving him my business. I was gonna get one
of his suspension kits. But he sounds like a jerk to me. There are others
selling suspension parts.

- -----Original Message-----

>
>Below is the response I got from Dick Miller when asking him about valve
>clearance on my motor.  Keep in mind I've spent afew hundred dollars with
>him in the past.  This is a cut and paste of the entie message.  Looks like
>he's trying to earn that first name of his..
>
>---------------
>
>
>"ask the people you bought your parts from"
>
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 20:26:37 EST
From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Subject: Re: Water in Gas?

Hesitation/bucking/stalling on moderate to heavy acceleration = bad fuel
pump (usually).  It's the first thing I check.  Happened to my brother's
Nova and my Cutlass (twice!).  All three times, fuel pump.  It's old,
worn out, and  can't deliver enough fuel to the carb to keep the engine
running under acceleration.  

Engine revs, fuel pump no good, fuel supply dwindles, engine begins to
stall, rpm's lower, fuel pump can now supply necessary fuel, engine fires
back up and revs again, rapidly repeating the cycle.

Of course, there are other things that can cause those symptoms:  cracked
distributor cap, bad coil, worn out points (the ~second~ thing I check;
my Olds has had the resistor wire replaced with a regular wire and goes
through them like nobody's business!), bad distributor ground (a long
story, don't ask!), etc.  Carburetors can also be the cause of such
problems, but I would replace that fuel pump!  Stock replacements don't
cost very much, and if that fixes the problem, you can buy an aftermarket
one later.


Dave Paulison                    1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida                1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com 

>As for the fuel pump idea, I'm wondering if the diaphragm could have 
>developed a
>hole small enough to still allow the pump to move fuel, but large 
>enough that I
>now have marginal fuel pressure.  It obviously still pushes fuel, so I 
>don't
>think removing the fuel inlet and watching for fuel flow would reveal 
>much.

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 20:52:39 EST
From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Subject: Re: dick miller responds!

What a *ick!


On Wed, 6 Jan 1999 20:12:25 -0500 "Ken" <olds442@en.com> writes:
>Below is the response I got from Dick Miller when asking him about 
>valve
>clearance on my motor.  Keep in mind I've spent afew hundred dollars 
>with
>him in the past.  This is a cut and paste of the entie message.  Looks 
>like
>he's trying to earn that first name of his..
>
>---------------
>
>
>"ask the people you bought your parts from"
>
>
>
>
>
>

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 21:05:12 EST
From: CUTLASS442@aol.com
Subject: Re: dick miller responds!

i wonder why they call him Dick. or do they just call him a &^$%%^&

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 21:37:33 EST
From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Subject: Alternator / Steering / Ignition

Hi folks,

I need help with a few things:

First:

I'm looking for a GM 10SI 63 amp or higher alternator core.  I have not
checked with the auto parts stores yet to see what the core charge for
such an alternator is; it may be better just to pay it.  Haven't really
checked junk yards, either, for a core, just hoping someone here has an
old one that no longer works they want to get rid of cheap.  I am finally
going to get rid of the old vibrator regulator and go to an internal
regulator.

Second:

I have a GM power steering gearbox sitting on my workbench.  I don't know
what make/model GM it is from (I do believe it is from an early 70's
model), but it ~will~ physically bolt in place of my current power
steering gearbox.  The gearbox on the workbench has something like one
full turn ~less~ lock to lock than the original one in the car ('69
Cutlass).  My quetion:  How can I tell if it's a quick ratio gearbox that
will give me a similar turning radius with a quicker lock to lock than my
current gearbox, or one that will simply reduce my turning radius with no
quick ratio if I put in my car?  Is there a way to tell by taking it
apart?  There has to be some internal differences between the different
types of gearboxes (especially the quick ratio ones).  I want to make the
steering in my old Cutlass quicker and more responsive.

Third:

I am tired of replacing points.  The resistor wire in my car has, at some
time in the past, been replaced by a regular wire, so the car burns up
points like crazy.  I also want a more accurate (and reliable?) ignition.
 I am hesistant to swap in an HEI distributor, as I have heard there is a
problem with air cleaner clearance on older model cars such as mine.  I
am quite happy with my current air cleaner, and do not wish to modify it
to fit around an HEI or replace it with an air cleaner off a later model
car.  Therefore, I am leaning toward a points replacement system.  My
question here is what kind of point replacements are available?  And what
is reliability like with each?  I don't want something that requires such
extensive mods that I couldn't swap in a set of points to get me home if
something went wrong with the points replacement.  Also, does anything
have to be done to modify the centrifugal and vacuum advance if I switch
to a points replacement?

TIA for the help!

Dave Paulison                    1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida                1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 21:45:06 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: dick miller responds!

How about posting his address so we can complain about that.  There are many
people here, and perhaps enough participants could flood their inbox to make
some sort of a point.

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 Calais
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Dave Paulison
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 1999 8:53 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: dick miller responds!


What a *ick!


On Wed, 6 Jan 1999 20:12:25 -0500 "Ken" <olds442@en.com> writes:
>Below is the response I got from Dick Miller when asking him about
>valve
>clearance on my motor.  Keep in mind I've spent afew hundred dollars
>with
>him in the past.  This is a cut and paste of the entie message.  Looks
>like
>he's trying to earn that first name of his..
>
>---------------
>
>
>"ask the people you bought your parts from"
>
>
>
>
>
>

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 21:51:35 -0500 (EST)
From: nvariel@webtv.net (noreen vitolo)
Subject: Please post  on Bulitien Board

Re: 61 olds starfire convertible

What interior colors were produced with a black esteriorand a tan top?

Does anyone have a showroom brochuer that shows the color combinations?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 22:03:40 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Parting a '67 CS...

From the newsgroups...

If interested, e-mail the guy at mustang@traveller.com

>>
>>
>>Subject: 1967 Oldsmobile CutlassSupreme parting out 72,000
>>mile car, excellent dash pad, posi rearend, 330
>>engine parts
>>
>>Dashpad w/ glovebox door $250, posi rearend $400, 4-v
>>carb $100, air cleaner $100, AM/FM radio $100, what
>>do you need? E-mail mustang@traveller.com, or call Ken @ (256)828-6848, if
>>no answer leave message and I'll call back. Thanks,
>>Ken
>>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 22:04:57 EST
From: CUTLASS442@aol.com
Subject: Re: dick miller responds!

In a message dated 1/6/99 6:45:20 PM Pacific Standard Time,
costanzo@netcarrier.com writes:

<< 
 How about posting his address so we can complain about that.  There are many
 people here, and perhaps enough participants could flood their inbox to make
 some sort of a point.
 
 Ray Costanzo
 87 409 Cutlass
 84 Calais
 costanzo@netcarrier.com
 http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo >>


Ray
good idea. does anybody have his e-mail address?

richard
1967 "oldsmobuick" Cutlass
cutlass442@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 19:08:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Nari Koka <koka10@yahoo.com>
Subject: Cold idle problems

I am new to car repairs.  I am working on my 82 Olds Delta 88 to fix
the cold running problems - more obvious in the winter.  The car over
all is running great.   It has a V8 5 liter engine, 4 barrel carb.

It starts in the morning and stops right away.  After giving gas it
starts and stops again.  After I do this several times and pressing
gas pedal a lot it finally stays on.  Once the engine is hot, there is
no problem.
During this period if I tried to press the accelerator it back fires
into the carburettor very loudly.

After the engine starts, the idling is slow and after some time, it
increases - I would expect it the other 
way.

Can anyone tell me how the cold idle is supposed to work?

The vacuum wiring was a mess.  When I looked at the diagram under the
hood, there is a component marked DVDV that should be between the
vacuum port and the idle load compensator (ILC).  That is missing on
this car and I could not get the dealer find it for me.  It seems like
the ILC is always active (retracted).  What is the role of vacuum on
this car?  What is the vaccum break unit?

I could not find a book that explains how the cold start and idle work
on this car.  There are very few references to this car in the
manuals.  Are there other cars that are exactly the same and has more
manuals avaialbe?

Thanks very much
Naren
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 22:14:31 EST
From: TheBlue67@aol.com
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Homecomming Show

pass the info onto me too. my brother, dad, and i plan to make the trip up
there for the show. so what the dilli yo?

Thanks
Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 22:18:12 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Water in Gas?

In a message dated 1/6/99 1:42:01 PM Pacific Standard Time,
smithtp@ix.netcom.com writes:

<<  This one was one the car when I got it.  I just don't trust
 it.  Any other advice from anyone? >>

     Only time a GM fuel pump quit on me, it gave me one warning, and 2 miles
later it quit completely...had done the bucking thing..stalled, started it,
drove off. Drove off after parking it at work for awhile, got about 1/4 mile
down the street, engine quit and that was it. Replaced the pump and no
problem.  Dorain

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 22:32:27 -0500
From: dclover@epix.net
Subject: Re: Shifter problem

Hi, List:
Looking for some info on a curious problem.

I seem to have a problem developing with the shifting mechanism on the
70 Cutlass Conv, only 67,000 miles.  First noticed the problem this
fall:  When moving the shift lever, in any direction (P>L; L>D; etc.)
for any distance, it seems rather stiff.  Tried to spray some lubricant
down the shifter column, from under the dash, as well as up the column
from the engine compartment, and it seemed to ease up a bit, but now
with 0-5 oF temps at night, even in the garage, it seems stiff again
(still!).   This is a daily driver; my 16 year old son uses it to go to
school every day; but I rarely drive it now.  (Non-Olds: I know, I know,
"You let your 16-year-old drive this classic???"   Well he thinks its
cool, and he paid for the body and paint work, and a new top, and is
replacing the corroded chrome and pot metal.  I figger, if he pays for
it, he'll show more respect for it!  And it seems to work!)

At any rate:  I don't know a lot about this:   The way it works:  Is it
suppose to be stiff?  Can it be lubricated? and How?  What manuals
detail this mechanism, the Fisher Body Manuals, or other?   Is this a
sign of more trouble to come?  Did I catch it too late?  Worry, worry,
worry, woe is me! ;-)

Thanks in advance for the help guys!

Dan J
70 Cutlass Supreme Conv

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 22:46:00 -0500
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator / Steering / Ignition

>I need help with a few things:
>
>First:
>
>I'm looking for a GM 10SI 63 amp or higher alternator core.  I have not
>checked with the auto parts stores yet to see what the core charge for
>such an alternator is; it may be better just to pay it.  Haven't really
>checked junk yards, either, for a core, just hoping someone here has an
>old one that no longer works they want to get rid of cheap.  I am finally
>going to get rid of the old vibrator regulator and go to an internal
>regulator.

You can get an internally regulated 63 amp at the parts store. It's an easy
switch that you won't regret. The core charge was $15. Check the FAQ for
detailed instructions or email me direct. I switched my 69 over at the same
time I went to HEI. No problem clearing my stock air cleaner. The
Aftermarket intake may have been a factor here but a simple spacer under
your air cleaner will give you the clearance you need. You can get these at
the parts store too, or just make one from a piece of tomato juice can. HEI
is a big improvement over points and all the info on the conversion is in
the FAQ.
Good luck.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie, Melbourne, FL
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 22:40:17 EST
From: Bbymks4@aol.com
Subject: Re: Shifter problem

         With the temperature that cold, the lubricant could be freezing.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 23:16:54 -0500
From: Gasman24 <stulk@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: dick miller responds!

Master Costanzo wrote:
> 
> How about posting his address so we can complain about that.  There are many
> people here, and perhaps enough participants could flood their inbox to make
> some sort of a point.
> 
> Ray Costanzo
> 87 409 Cutlass
> 84 Calais
> costanzo@netcarrier.com
> http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo
> 
>
  I think his address for his web page anyway is www.mspmall.com/dmr

 Let's go get 'em!
 
  Scott

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 23:40:38 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: message TO dick miller

heres what I sent to DM racing..maybe someone can use it worded slightly
differently to fire off another letter to them (the address is
DMRacing1@aol.com):

       I belong to an Internet list of Oldsmobile enthusiasts. After reading
of the response one list member received from Dick Miller racing, I decided I
HAD to write. On the very first web page for your company, where it says
"about Dick Miller racing", it states, and I quote, "free technical advice is
offered daily during regular business hours" Someone who has spent hundreds of
dollars with your company does not deserve a response such as "ask the
manufacturer" like he did. And a company that treats its customers like this
will not get my business.  Dorian Yeager

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 22:52:49 -0600 (CST)
From: Bryceman <bryceman@442.com>
Subject: Olds Item on Ebay

Check this out...
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=53003593


Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Oldsmobiles!
J. Bryce Smith
Email: bryceman@442.com
Web: http://442.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 23:54:43 EST
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: dick miller responds!

In a message dated 99-01-06 20:27:32 EST, you write:

<< Dang, real nice guy. So much for giving him my business. I was gonna get
one
 of his suspension kits. But he sounds like a jerk to me. There are others
 selling suspension parts.
 
 -----Original Message-----
 
 >
 >Below is the response I got from Dick Miller when asking him about valve
 >clearance on my motor.  Keep in mind I've spent afew hundred dollars with
 >him in the past.  This is a cut and paste of the entie message.  Looks like
 >he's trying to earn that first name of his..
 >
 >---------------
 >
 >
 >"ask the people you bought your parts from"
 > >>
As an engine builder, I can agree with Mr. Miller.  He doesn't know what parts
you bought and if you told him well maybe he doesnt deal with that company.
Each company makes valves to different specs.  Did you tell him what cam you
were running,  How about more details on what you wrote.  I am sticking up for
Mr. Miller because of the dealings I have had with him personally.  I attended
his Olds nats last year and I see him at other Division 3 racing events and
never had problems of any kind.  So before everybody jumps on the band wagon,
lets hear more details.

Regards
W MACHINES (MARK PRINCE)
72 442 W-30 race rocket

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 23:55:37 EST
From: Bbymks4@aol.com
Subject: Re: message TO dick miller

           Right on, I think an apology is owed....

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 00:03:09 -0500
From: "G.J.C cc-iroc-ss" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Cleaning Tanks

Question,

What's the best ways/products to clean the puke tank, and wiper/washer
tanks. Anyone try using chlorine bleach diluted? Would like to find a
process to remove stains and bring back to the original white plastic
surface. No, haven't tried anything yet. Just wondering if anyone has
tackled this matter and to what success.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs

ICQ# 5209322
mailto:gjcouse@CC-IROC-SS.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 00:14:07 EST
From: Bbymks4@aol.com
Subject: clock questions

                older clocks in older cars usually didn't last very long, so
I've got 
       a few questions about them.
        
        #1 what causes them to die?
        #2 can they be easily fixed?
        #3 is my only real option to pay some catalog $100.00 to make it into
            a quartz movement?
        #4 or.....does someone know somewhere that does it for less.
             (an answer to #4 would be my best hope)
          Thanks in advance from.....Steve M.

           1-73 442 restoration project
         (that is just getting underway)
        

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 00:33:14 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: READ ME: Help the Olds Cause! send to: dmracing1@aol.com

Alright, hopefully everyone will read this and take it seriously.
There is a company out there called Dick Miller Racing and they apparetly
have some customer service issues that are unacceptable.  A response to some
inquiry was sent to a fellow list member which was quite abrupt and rather
rude, let alone non-customer friendly.  This is a copy of the response from
Dick Miller Racing.  Not sure what the original question was:

"ask the people you bought your parts from"

If that's the kind of support and service this company is going to offer to
people who buy their product, I feel each of us should tell them that it is
not acceptable.  Now, anyone who wants to write them is cool, but in my
opinion, I think it's important to sound civilized and not use profanities
or anything of the sort.  the idea is to flood their mailbox with mail of
disgruntlement from the few hundred of us that there are here.  That should
absolutely get a point across.

Or of course we could all use the same letter and all "sign" it and send it
individually.

So whatever.  i hope many of you write and let them know that if they want
to make money they have to treat people better.  see ya!

here is Dick Miller Racigs Address:

dmracing1@aol.com


Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 Calais
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo
- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Gasman24
Sent: Wednesday, January 06, 1999 11:17 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: dick miller responds!


Master Costanzo wrote:
>
> How about posting his address so we can complain about that.  There are
many
> people here, and perhaps enough participants could flood their inbox to
make
> some sort of a point.
>
> Ray Costanzo
> 87 409 Cutlass
> 84 Calais
> costanzo@netcarrier.com
> http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo
>
>
  I think his address for his web page anyway is www.mspmall.com/dmr

 Let's go get 'em!

  Scott

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 00:39:47 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: clock questions

In a message dated 1/7/1999 12:15:49 AM Eastern Standard Time, Bbymks4@aol.com
writes:

<< #1 what causes them to die?
         #2 can they be easily fixed?
         #3 is my only real option to pay some catalog $100.00 to make it into
             a quartz movement?
         #4 or.....does someone know somewhere that does it for less.
              (an answer to #4 would be my best hope)
           Thanks in advance from.....Steve M.
  >>


The problem is that the clocks are the old fashioned wind them up style. A set
of points close as the clock unwinds causing it to rewind.  The points get
dirty and the tension on the isn't a lot. The result is..... they don't work.
The quartz conversions are expensive but I had one done on my Mothers car (a
57 BelAir) about 8 years ago with absolutely no problems since.

Hope this helps!
Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 00:45:06 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: clock questions

Bbymks4@aol.com wrote:
> 
>                 older clocks in older cars usually didn't last very long, so
> I've got
>        a few questions about them.
> 
>         #1 what causes them to die?

I've heard that it has something to do with a switch in the clock that
rewinds it after the spring loses a certain amount of tension.  As I
understand it, sometimes the switch points would not properly close, and
just barely touch.  The motor would try to wind the clock but the points
could not handle the load because they weren't properly closed.  This
caused them to wear out quickly and the clocks didn't last very long.
  
>         #2 can they be easily fixed?

Taken from the clock section of the olds FAQ:

Standard Remedy 
     The quickie repair for clocks that just get gunked up (e.g. it's
really hard to
     even turn the hands using the knob) is to fog the mechanism with
WD-40
     through the backlighting holes in the back of the case (or after
you've
     disassembled the case, if possible). Squirt gently, not too long
and not using
     the extension tube on the spray head. 

Sorry, I don't know about 3 or 4.  Although I have wondered if you could
remove the clockwork from a later quartz GM dash clock, attatch it to an
older face and use the original hands....Anyone ever tried that?

Good luck.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cultass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 00:43:06 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Cleaning Tanks

Simple Green!

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 Calais
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

- -----Original Message-----
From: G.J.C cc-iroc-ss [mailto:gjcouse@francomm.com]
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 1999 12:03 AM
To: Oldsmobile@Chebucto. Ns. Ca
Cc: G-Body List
Subject: Cleaning Tanks
Sensitivity: Confidential


Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List - http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/

Question,

What's the best ways/products to clean the puke tank, and wiper/washer
tanks. Anyone try using chlorine bleach diluted? Would like to find a
process to remove stains and bring back to the original white plastic
surface. No, haven't tried anything yet. Just wondering if anyone has
tackled this matter and to what success.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs

ICQ# 5209322
mailto:gjcouse@CC-IROC-SS.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com


______________________________________________________________________
To unsubscribe, write to olds_gbody-unsubscribe@listbot.com
Start Your Own FREE Email List at http://www.listbot.com/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 00:48:06 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Item on Ebay

Bryceman wrote:
> 
> Check this out...
> http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=53003593

Hey I used to have one of thoes!  It came with my circa 1987 TYCO
richard petty slot car set.  I still have the body lying around in my
"junk collection."  I don't have the motor/chassis anymore.  As I
remember i didn't care for it much.  It wouldn't run very fast before
flying off the track.  I preferred a couple of indy cars that had an
extra set of magnets in the chassis. They stuck to the track and could
~really~ go.  

Aaaaah, memories. :)  I'll spare you the details of how I hopped up my
slot car set....And eventually smoked the controllers. :)

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 6 Jan 1999 22:46:01 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Cryogenics

They have, it works, it's pricey
- -----Original Message-----
From: DYeager535@aol.com <DYeager535@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, January 06, 1999 12:57 PM
Subject: Cryogenics


>     Just read a thing on cryogenics as it applied to rifle barrels. I know
>it's not the same application, but what they discovered was that it was a
>toss-up. Sometimes it helped, sometimes it didn't. They tested accuracy, as
it
>was supposed to help in that area. I would think it would be similar to
rods
>or whatever, supposedly strengthening the metal, less flex I believe is
what
>they are going for. Now if someone could run the same tests on car
parts......
>Dorian
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 00:48:36 -0500
From: "Ken" <olds442@en.com>
Subject: Re: dick miller responds!

>  So before everybody jumps on the band wagon,
>lets hear more details.
>
>Regards
>W MACHINES (MARK PRINCE)
>72 442 W-30 race rocket

- ---------------------------------
    the question...

>>>Looking for input from anyone who knows about valve clearance.
>>>I'm putting a set of +.060 396 Chevy dome pistons(TRW L2240) in my .030
>>>455.  The domes have been cut so the pistons are now flat tops.  My deck
>>>clearance will be "0" or a hair less.  I'll be using a regular old
fel-pro
>>>head gasket and edelbrock aluminum heads that have not been milled. The
cam
>>>is the big solid comp cams grind .600/.593 265/276@.050

>>>Dave Smith says I will be ok with no valve clearance notching on the
piston,
>>>but do a clay check for the hell of it.

>>>Mondello says it wont work, scrap the chevy pistons and buy a set of
pistons
>>>from him.   Imagine that.

>>>Was wondering if you guys had any input for me.

- -------------------------
    tricky dicks response..

>ask the people you bought your parts from
- -------------------------
    and finally my response to all this...

Dick has no responsibility to share his Olds racing expertise with me or
anyone,
and I imagine he gets more than his share of people asking him the same
stuff
over and over.  I take this reply to mean "If you didn't buy it for me then
get bent"
So I'll get bent.  I have no intention of emailing him or dealing with him
in any way.
I'll still go to his Olds meet at Norwalk cuz I love Oldsmobiles.  List
members
shouldn't feel the need to do anything about this. I didn't post it here for
that.
Just take it into consideration when you need some free advice.  If Dick
gets up
on the wrong side of the bed your out of luck, ask someone else.

The funny thing is I have a new set of aluminum heads I want ported out.
Machine
shop guys in Cleveland say "We port Chevys all the time we can dial 'em in
real good.".
I figure I should ship them to an Olds specialist for the work.  Guess who
aint getting the job?
So now I need to find someone else that can port these heads for a full race
application.
Someone a little closer than California!

Ken

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1705
*********************************

