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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1765


oldsmobile-digest    Wednesday, February 10 1999    Volume 01 : Number 1765



Re: Cool stuff on ebay
79 Hurst 4 sale
Re: Dual Gate shifter.
RE: Cool stuff on ebay
Re: 79 Hurst 4 sale 
Re: Non olds: what the heck is E-bay?
open air-cleaner
Re: Drag Racing expertise needed
RE: Cool stuff on ebay
cad plating-eastwood ? to the list
RE: Cool stuff on ebay
Re: Dual Gate shifter.
Re: open air-cleaner
Re: Drag Racing expertise needed
Re: Drag Racing expertise needed
Olds "C" Heads on E-bay facts
Re: Non olds: what the heck is E-bay?
Re: modifying a dual snorkel
Re: cad plating-eastwood ? to the list
TADA!!! Yipee!! Now what?
Re: Drag Racing expertise needed
Re: Non olds: what the heck is E-bay?
Re: Drag Racing expertise needed
Re: Dual Gate shifter.
Re: Olds only show and go
Re:  39 degree 425 and 455 pushrod difference
Re: Drag Racing expertise needed
Re:  39 degree 425 and 455 pushrod difference
RE: speaking of dual snorkel
Re: Drag Racing expertise needed
Re:  39 degree 425 and 455 pushrod difference
RE: Headlight Surgery - Temp Gone
Re: Chevrolet 350
unsubscribe
Unsubcribe oldsmobile-digest
Re: 39 degree 425 and 455 pushrod difference
FS: New parts
69 H/O on ebay
[none]
Sheet metal thickness-68 442
Re: speaking of dual snorkel
Re: 39 degree 425 and 455 pushrod difference
dual-snorkel air cleaners
Re: Zigs
Re: Drag Racing expertise needed
Re: TADA!!! Yipee!! Now what?
Re: Non olds: what the heck is E-bay?
Re: Chevrolet 350
Re: TADA!!! Yipee!! Now what?
Re: Rocket 350
Rocker Pedestal Shims
Dual Gate Shifter
Re: Rocker Pedestal Shims
Re: Rocket 350 
street 350 recipe wanted

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 14:19:55 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Cool stuff on ebay

> From: jason shreve <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Cool stuff on ebay
> Date: Wednesday, February 10, 1999 1:09 AM
> 
> 
>.  Some dude is trying 
> to sell what he calls rare C casting heads from a 442 for $499.  Are 
> they that rare?.  

I spoke to the seller of these heads.  They put in thier first bid and
honestly admit they made a mistake.  They don't know how to lower the
price, before the auction ends.  So they are going to let it ride itself
out.  If someone buys them thats great and if not they will re-list them
with a more reallistic starting bid price.


Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454




- ----------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 13:26:49 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: 79 Hurst 4 sale

I just got news of a buddy's 79 Hurst Olds for sale. It has 80K, no T-Tops,
strong 350, dual gate shifter, black exterior, stock rims. From what I
gather (as I have not seen it yet) the body has rust on the doors (common)
and a little in the quarters. It sounds as though he may want $1500 for it.
I have never really been to knowledgeable with the 79's but is this worth
it? I don't plan on restoring it but wouldn't mind buying it to either sell
to someone or part out....What to do???

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 14:15:28 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Dual Gate shifter.

The question I have is that my Dualgate (72) when in dualgate mode does not
have the mechanism that would stop it from going into 2 gear or third gear.
You have to shift lightly so that you don't overshift into to send or
third. There is nothing stopping it from each shift. Am I missing a part???
You stated that you can opush the stick as hard and it while stop the
shifter.


Pettrix@prodigy.net
________

Yep, you should be able to bang on the shifter as hard as you want and
still only hit the next gear up.  First, please don't be offended, but I
need to ask the obvious, just to be sure.  I assume you have the stick in
the right side gate, and that as you upshift, you press the stick against
the right side of the gate as you simultaneously push forward.  Note that
the stick is spring loaded to the _left_, so you do have to conciously
press it to the right for this to work.  If you still overshift, it is
possible that one of the internal springs is broken, or the edges of the
shifter gate have been worn and rounded, preventing a clean stop by the
stick.  Does Hurst still have their lifetime guarantee, or was this just
for H/O shifters?  Does anyone know if they rebuild dual gates, or only MT
shifters?

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 14:12:38 -0500
From: Marc Leizza <mleizza@solidworks.com>
Subject: RE: Cool stuff on ebay

In regards to the "C" casting heads, I'll offer up what I know.
The "C" casting heads that I know about were on the 68 H/O with air
conditioning.
If the 68 H/O did not have air conditioning, then there was a "D" cast.
This also, I believe applies for the 69 H/O.

Marco

	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Robert Schinkel [SMTP:docbob@caninet.com]
	Sent:	Wednesday, February 10, 1999 2:20 PM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	Re: Cool stuff on ebay


	> From: jason shreve <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
	> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	> Subject: Cool stuff on ebay

	> Date: Wednesday, February 10, 1999 1:09 AM
	> 
	> 
	>.  Some dude is trying 
	> to sell what he calls rare C casting heads from a 442 for $499.
Are 
	> they that rare?.  

	I spoke to the seller of these heads.  They put in thier first bid
and
	honestly admit they made a mistake.  They don't know how to lower
the
	price, before the auction ends.  So they are going to let it ride
itself
	out.  If someone buys them thats great and if not they will re-list
them
	with a more reallistic starting bid price.


	Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
	Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454




	----------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 13:17:13 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: 79 Hurst 4 sale 

Hi Peter, 

There was some discussion on the list regarding buying cheap cars for 
parting them out. I am sure you read those posts. I felt like I should 
tell you to be cautious...
 
If you have the time and the room to store the car and the parts you can 
of course buy that car. 
BUT:
I would not go for a car for over 1000 bucks for this purpose even if it 
would have some parts on it I need for my project. I am not aware of the 
need for 79 parts but I guess they are still easier to get and prices 
will be much lower then what we are used to with the older stuff. Also, 
selling on the internet/mailinglist is great but shipping is often too 
expensive for most parts especially if they are not highly desirable. 

Good Luck, 

Regards, George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

On Wed, 10 Feb 1999, Peter Landowski wrote:

> I just got news of a buddy's 79 Hurst Olds for sale. It has 80K, no T-Tops,
> strong 350, dual gate shifter, black exterior, stock rims. From what I
> gather (as I have not seen it yet) the body has rust on the doors (common)
> and a little in the quarters. It sounds as though he may want $1500 for it.
> I have never really been to knowledgeable with the 79's but is this worth
> it? I don't plan on restoring it but wouldn't mind buying it to either sell
> to someone or part out....What to do???
> 
> Pettrix@prodigy.net
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 14:27:07 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Non olds: what the heck is E-bay?

Sounds like the birth of the newest ebay bid monster to me. I'm addicted to
it. Anyone else?

Omega Man
'74 Omega S 455


At 02:03 PM 2/10/99 -0500, you wrote:
>www.ebay.com  Check It out
>and search for oldsmobile
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Greg <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
>To: Olds list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Date: Wednesday, February 10, 1999 10:32 AM
>Subject: Non olds: what the heck is E-bay?
>
>
>>I feel like I'm missing something big here...
>>
>>greg z
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 14:29:58 -0500
From: Darren King <KingD@sx.com>
Subject: open air-cleaner

I have a 79 Cutlass Salon with a Buick 231 V6 engine
in it.  It has a typical snorkel setup.  Can I remove it
and put on an open air cleaner?  I think a 10" cleaner
will fit.  What about hoses coming out of the current
setup?  Do they have open air setup that have hookups?
Not really crucial since I'm not subject to emissions...
car turns 20 this year and they're for 3-20 YO cars...
they're doing even number cars this year, odd next but
next year, my car will be 21!  Yesss...outsmarted the man
again.

Darren King

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 14:23:55 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Drag Racing expertise needed

I also have a 72 cutlass 350, posi 3:23's ,street dominator intake, holley
600cfm, basicaly the same setup as Randy except that I have an MSD 6AL and
a
4spd tranny and my best ET is 14.79 at 94.63 MPH and I still think that the
car can do better once I improve my launches. I'm thinking of going to
3:73's

Eddie    72 Cutlass   conv / 4spd
________

Yes, the steeper gears will definitely help, especially with the 4 spd.
What diameter tires do you run?  Try a smaller diameter tire as a way to
test out the steeper gears.  For example, if you run a 27" tall tire now,
changing to a 25" tall tire is the same as changing to a 3.48-ish rear gear
with your original tires.  At what RPM do you launch?  Do the tires stick
or spin?

When I ran my 71 Cutlass with 29" tall slicks, the 3.42 gears definitely
hurt the launch, despite the dual quad 455 and nitrous.  3.91s or 4.10s
would have made a dramatic difference.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 14:30:11 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: RE: Cool stuff on ebay

In regards to the "C" casting heads, I'll offer up what I know.
The "C" casting heads that I know about were on the 68 H/O with air
conditioning.
If the 68 H/O did not have air conditioning, then there was a "D" cast.
This also, I believe applies for the 69 H/O.

Marco
______

Uh, not quite.  The "C" heads were used on _every_ 1967-1969 big block Olds
motor (400 short and long stroke, 425, and 455) _except_ the 68-69 W-30s
and H/Os, which got the D heads.  Marco is correct in noting that 68 H/Os
with A/C got C heads instead of the D heads, but 69 H/Os used D heads on
both non-A/C and A/C cars.  The result is that C heads were quite common in
their time, however that _was_ over 30 years ago, so they are getting a
little hard to find.  It's been well documented that C heads tend to flow
the best of all the "non-exotic" factory heads.  Note that the C heads came
in both big and small valve versions (2.00" vs. 2.07" intake).

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 14:51:05 EST
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: cad plating-eastwood ? to the list

eastwoods has a cad coating system- (paint in aerisol cans)  that is suppose
to look like the original plating on power brake boosters. and also a paint
for exhaust mann. that makes them look new while resisting heat temps. up to
1200*,  has anyone tried these and if so what did they think of them?   im
looking to redo my brake booster, carb, and exhaust mann.  any suggestions?
steven,  w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 14:56:26 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: RE: Cool stuff on ebay

Would it be safe to assume that 'C' heads on a '68 442 Turnpike cruiser
w/2bbl and A/C would have the small valves?

Omega Man
74 Omega S 455







At 02:30 PM 2/10/99 -0500, you wrote:
>In regards to the "C" casting heads, I'll offer up what I know.
>The "C" casting heads that I know about were on the 68 H/O with air
>conditioning.
>If the 68 H/O did not have air conditioning, then there was a "D" cast.
>This also, I believe applies for the 69 H/O.
>
>Marco
>______
>
>Uh, not quite.  The "C" heads were used on _every_ 1967-1969 big block Olds
>motor (400 short and long stroke, 425, and 455) _except_ the 68-69 W-30s
>and H/Os, which got the D heads.  Marco is correct in noting that 68 H/Os
>with A/C got C heads instead of the D heads, but 69 H/Os used D heads on
>both non-A/C and A/C cars.  The result is that C heads were quite common in
>their time, however that _was_ over 30 years ago, so they are getting a
>little hard to find.  It's been well documented that C heads tend to flow
>the best of all the "non-exotic" factory heads.  Note that the C heads came
>in both big and small valve versions (2.00" vs. 2.07" intake).
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 14:53:26 -0500
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate shifter.

> Does Hurst still have their lifetime guarantee, or was this just
>for H/O shifters?  Does anyone know if they rebuild dual gates, or >only MT
shifters?

======================================================

Yes to both questions Joe. According to their web-page www.mrgasket.com) Mr
G. is honoring the lifetime guarantee and will rebuild a dual gate for
$45.00/ About 2 - 3 weeks turnaround time. All the details are at their
site.

Thanks for checking into the Pontiac/Olds dual gate similarities for me.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 15:02:38 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: open air-cleaner

I have one on my 307 4 barrel.  It is an Edelbrock air cleaner,
availible at Pep Boys.  In order for it to clear the choke linkage and
EGR valve I had to get a 5/8 inch spacer for it.  It comes with an
outlet you can install to hook up your breather filter.  There is a
place to do the same for your air pump but the water-neck looking thing
is not included for this.  You could probably pick one of those up
somewhere.  You will have to block off the hose for the thermac control
but that's it.  
Good Luck
Brian.

Darren King wrote:
> 
> I have a 79 Cutlass Salon with a Buick 231 V6 engine
> in it.  It has a typical snorkel setup.  Can I remove it
> and put on an open air cleaner?  I think a 10" cleaner
> will fit.  What about hoses coming out of the current
> setup?  Do they have open air setup that have hookups?
> Not really crucial since I'm not subject to emissions...
> car turns 20 this year and they're for 3-20 YO cars...
> they're doing even number cars this year, odd next but
> next year, my car will be 21!  Yesss...outsmarted the man
> again.
> 
> Darren King

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 15:09:22 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Drag Racing expertise needed

> From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
>
>
For example, if you run a 27" tall tire now,
> changing to a 25" tall tire is the same as changing to a 3.48-ish rear
gear
> with your original tires. 
> 
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
> 
> 

Mr. Joe.

I believe but not forsure.  That all GM gear ratio's were calculated at 26"
tall tires as a standard hieght.

Also just a quick point for Eddy.

94.63 work out to 14.30 second in the 1/4 mile.
If you are only going 14.63 this says you are having a fuel shortage
problem.  This repair  will net you a better ET alone.  
Try to work with what you have first, maybe.  There seem to be room for
inprovement in your car as it sits.


Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454




- ----------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 15:04:37 -0500
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Drag Racing expertise needed

Eddie,

Are you running a stock bottom end (8.5:1 comp), stock (unported) 7a heads
and stock exhaust manifolds also. Just curious.......You're running around
what I expected, mid 14's. I know mine doesn't flow as well as it will when
I put on headers and have the heads worked. I have the block apart and will
put in higher comp pistons when I put it back together, but even with these
drawbacks I expected more. I'll get it where I want it one of these days ;)
FWIW, I am running a complete (except wires, Moroso Blue Max) MSD ignition
system. 6Al, Blaster 2, Pro-Billet distributor.

Randy


>I also have a 72 cutlass 350, posi 3:23's ,street dominator intake, >holley
600cfm, basicaly the same setup as Randy except that I have >an MSD 6AL and
a 4spd tranny and my best ET is 14.79 at 94.63 >MPH and I still think that
the car can do better once I improve my >launches. I'm thinking of going to
3:73's

>Eddie    72 Cutlass   conv / 4spd

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 14:12:07 -0600
From: "Dave Rench" <renchd@krause.com>
Subject: Olds "C" Heads on E-bay facts

To say some of you some time, I'm attaching my e-mail question to the
seller of the heads and their response.  I will not be bidding on the
heads.




Hi Dave,
     I'm answering for my husband who is in bed.  He said he would look in
the morning for the C but the casting number listed should tell you.  The
work was done in our shop.  It has valves and springs, no rocker arms no
bridges, regular valve job, but will do 3 angle if you want.  Has been
checked for cracks, no cracks, has 2,07 intake.  Hope that has helped.
I don't know where your from, but most people know my husband that are into
racing or whatever.  He is good friends with Mickey Marollo and Dave
Crower.
His name is Andy Dobransky.  Very respected in his business.  I am new to
ebay and have a small gift shop.  I told Andy that they had an automotive
section on ebay and we thought we'd give it a try.  He has allot of older
heads and STUFF.  You can reach him at 315-788-6561 at work.  He's always
there except between 5pm and 7om for supper.  If you can't reach him there
you can call home at 315-782-1458 and if he's not here I can try to track
him down on his cell phone.  He' s normally at work 7 days and 4 nights a
week.  Hope I've helped.  Thanks, Linda

- -----Original Message-----
From: Dave Rench <renchd@krause.com>
To: doll@gisco.net <doll@gisco.net>
Date: Friday, February 05, 1999 11:40 PM
Subject: 442 Heads on Ebay


>These would be "C" castings correct?  ID'd by a letter C on left of head
>facing it as placed on motor.  Do they have the 2.07" intake valves? Are
>they complete including valves, springs, rocker arms, bridges etc?  What
>kind of valve job?  Hardened seats installed?  Have they been checked for
>cracks in the valve seat area or elsewhere?  Was the work done by somebody
>familiar with Olds heads and their "nonadjustable" valvetrain?
>
>Sorry for all of the questions, just want to be sure what I'm bidding on.
>I'm sure that you do great work, but there is a trust factor here (on both
>sides).  Thanks for your time.
>
>Dave Rench
>
>
Hi again Dave,
     The heads are a C casting on both heads and are 1.970 intake.  Thanks,
Linda
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dave Rench <renchd@krause.com>
To: doll@gisco.net <doll@gisco.net>
Date: Friday, February 05, 1999 11:40 PM
Subject: 442 Heads on Ebay


>These would be "C" castings correct?  ID'd by a letter C on left of head
>facing it as placed on motor.  Do they have the 2.07" intake valves? Are
>they complete including valves, springs, rocker arms, bridges etc?  What
>kind of valve job?  Hardened seats installed?  Have they been checked for
>cracks in the valve seat area or elsewhere?  Was the work done by somebody
>familiar with Olds heads and their "nonadjustable" valvetrain?
>
>Sorry for all of the questions, just want to be sure what I'm bidding on.
>I'm sure that you do great work, but there is a trust factor here (on both
>sides).  Thanks for your time.
>
>Dave Rench


Dave Rench
1970 W-31

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 15:17:16 -0500
From: "C Thomas" <cthomas@stny.lrun.com>
Subject: Re: Non olds: what the heck is E-bay?

Here Too!!!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, February 10, 1999 2:35 PM
Subject: Re: Non olds: what the heck is E-bay?


>
>Sounds like the birth of the newest ebay bid monster to me. I'm addicted to
>it. Anyone else?
>
>Omega Man
>'74 Omega S 455
>
>
>At 02:03 PM 2/10/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>www.ebay.com  Check It out
>>and search for oldsmobile
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Greg <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
>>To: Olds list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>>Date: Wednesday, February 10, 1999 10:32 AM
>>Subject: Non olds: what the heck is E-bay?
>>
>>
>>>I feel like I'm missing something big here...
>>>
>>>greg z
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 14:08:16 -0600
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: Re: modifying a dual snorkel

  Toro's used a dual
>snorkel in some years as well, but I'm not sure what years that entailed
>or whether they were the same.
>
>Mike Rothe
> 

  I've got one off a '66 Toro, it already has a recess for the distributer
owing to the fact that the carb sat lower on the manifold owing to hood
clearence problems.  With a stock HEI, it may work without mods.  I believe
that the general (Patton) originally brought this up and may have tried it.
 I'll be doing so in late summer or early fall, depending on when I finish
putting my 425 together.  Beats(pun) the hell out of wacking the cr@p out
of your original air cleaner.(if it works)...General?

BTW: Got the crank back from General Engine and Machine in Skokie, IL.
They did a fine job on boring the bearing recess and pressing one in.  Cost
was $90 and I provided the bearing.  I dropped it off on Wednesday and
picked it up on Friday.  Nice turn around time....cash helps.

Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 15:23:14 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: cad plating-eastwood ? to the list

eastwoods has a cad coating system- (paint in aerisol cans)  that is
suppose
to look like the original plating on power brake boosters...
_________

The Eastwood cad coating system, as you point out, is a paint system
(actually, the "kit" is just four cans of paint) whereby you simulate the
green-gold look of real cad plating by applying various coats of silver,
gold, and green spray paint.  I've seen it used, and it looks, well,
painted. While it's presentable, don't expect the results to look like real
cad plating.  I certainly wouldn't use the stuff on a concourse
restoration, for example.  It's OK for a driver or a 7/10-ths show car.
Be advised that the results you'll get are very dependent on operator skill
and artistic ability, so if you haven't used this stuff before, expect to
blow some of it practicing on scrap parts.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 14:29:51 -0600
From: "Norm Muelleman" <norm806@dialnet.net>
Subject: TADA!!! Yipee!! Now what?

I DID IT!!! Happy Daze are here again!!!
The 79 T/A now has an engine again! However, there were some minor problems
along the way...
1. Lost fingernail
2. Butterfly stitch last night due to knucle colliding with cylinder head
while trying to remove head bolt...down to the bone

The good news: When I pulled the oil pan last night, at around midnight, I
found NO gunk, shavings, etc. in the pan. Also, when the heads were removed,
the cylinder walls were smooth..no nicks, etc. There was a very small ridge
at the top of the cylinder walls, but I left that alone.

I also broke a small part of the lip of the distributor base off. The
transmission TH375 is NOT the same length as a TH350. The crossmember is too
far forward! So, I placed a jack under the tranny while finishing the engine
mount bolts. Well, I moved the car, and the jack slipped, and the
distributor caught the trans tunnel. OOPS! Oh well...

So, I have no idea what to do about the trans. I used the trans bracket to
rest the tranny on..I guess I'll have to have someone come over and weld
brackets to the subframe..any ideas on what to do? Any  universal trans
mounts available?

If I wasn't sooo darn tired, I'd love to finish up, and start it! Maybe by
tonight...gotta take a nap!

Norm (It's getting closer..the car will soon run!) Muelleman
ICQ: 3156478
norm806@dialnet.net

View my webpage at: http://members.dialnet.net/norm806
Updated 2-9-99  Now with Sound!!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 15:29:29 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Drag Racing expertise needed

I believe but not forsure.  That all GM gear ratio's were calculated at 26"
tall tires as a standard hieght.
__________

Uh, sorry, but the gear ratio is only a function of the number of teeth on
the pinion and ring gears and is not effected by tire size at all.  A 3.23
ratio will be a 3.23 ratio with 26" tires, 29" slicks, or no tire installed
at all.  However, changing the tire diameter _will_ have the same effect as
changing the gear ratio.  Per my previous example, if you originally had
3.23 gears and were running 27" tall tires, changing to 25" tall tires
would have exactly the same effect as running 3.48-ish gears with the
original 27" tires.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 13:39:33 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Non olds: what the heck is E-bay?

Gene Gilpin wrote:
> 
> Sounds like the birth of the newest ebay bid monster to me. I'm addicted to
> it. Anyone else?

I've bid on 4 Olds items so far and lost on 3.  A 1969 dealer's poster with the
models and prices got away as did a 69 fabric and colour sample book.  Also
missed was a Johnny Lightening blister pack of a '69 442 and a '70 Ch*v*ll*
which would have been cool since that's the only 2 old cars I have.  I did win
a 1968 sales brochure and it should be in the mail this week.

Just a note to potential bidders, you should monitor the item in the last few
minutes of the auction.  I bid on an item and was the high bidder for 2 days
only to be out-bid in the last couple of minutes.  Maybe if I was watching that
one I would have upped my bid once I knew someone else was interested.

It's addictive.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 15:59:01 EST
From: EDZX6@aol.com
Subject: Re: Drag Racing expertise needed

Joe
I'm using 25" tall tires now, and when I launch the tires stick! The problem
I'm having is that it seems like it doesn't matter at what RPM I launch the
car has the same problem. The car seems to stumble of the line, I don't have
this problem on the street where at 3000 RPM the wheels go up in smoke. I
realize that at the strip there's a lot more traction but I can't figure this
stumbling out. I even installed jet ext on the carb thinking that maybe it
wasn't getting fuel but no luck. Any ideas??

Eddie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 15:23:37 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate shifter.

Yes it is to the right and I do all that is supposed to be done. I will
look at it closely to see if the thing may be worn out or the sprng may be
a little weak....
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Dual Gate shifter.
> Date: Wednesday, February 10, 1999 1:15 PM
> 
> The question I have is that my Dualgate (72) when in dualgate mode does
not
> have the mechanism that would stop it from going into 2 gear or third
gear.
> You have to shift lightly so that you don't overshift into to send or
> third. There is nothing stopping it from each shift. Am I missing a
part???
> You stated that you can opush the stick as hard and it while stop the
> shifter.
> 
> 
> Pettrix@prodigy.net
> ________
> 
> Yep, you should be able to bang on the shifter as hard as you want and
> still only hit the next gear up.  First, please don't be offended, but I
> need to ask the obvious, just to be sure.  I assume you have the stick in
> the right side gate, and that as you upshift, you press the stick against
> the right side of the gate as you simultaneously push forward.  Note that
> the stick is spring loaded to the _left_, so you do have to conciously
> press it to the right for this to work.  If you still overshift, it is
> possible that one of the internal springs is broken, or the edges of the
> shifter gate have been worn and rounded, preventing a clean stop by the
> stick.  Does Hurst still have their lifetime guarantee, or was this just
> for H/O shifters?  Does anyone know if they rebuild dual gates, or only
MT
> shifters?
> 
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
> 
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 69 442
> 70 W-30
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 16:03:55 EST
From: MAT68442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds only show and go

Scott
	I also plan to attend the show at Norwalk, as that is only about an 
hour
drive for me. 

Mark
87 442
71 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 16:09:41 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: Re:  39 degree 425 and 455 pushrod difference

Cliff,
 The 425 is a 39 degree/.842" block, just like the 455s. This is why i'm
puzzled. The only thing I can surmise is the deck is farther away from the
crank C/L on the 425, than on the 455? The math i posted hints that this
may be the case, and the 425 pushrods are longer..
Dave

>
>
> Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 21:47:41 -0700
> From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
> Subject: Re: 425/455 block/pushrod difference
>
> There was a thread about this a while ago.  I believe it was about
> whether the pushrods should be longer or shorter on the 39 degree
> motor.  It all boiled down to the fact that the crank is in the
> intersection of the two banks but the cam is above that.  Therefore the
> 39 degree pushrods should be shorter than the 45 if my mental experiment
> is correct.
>
> David Brode wrote:
> >
> > Hello all,
> >  A fellow list member and I were comparing some pushrods yesterday and
> > found that ones from a 455 were of a different length than those from a 39
> > degree/.842 425 [block #...244]. This puzzled me, as I thought they should
> > be the same.
> >
> >  I wonder if anyone has measured these blocks from the crank C/L to the
> > deck? I ask because if you do the math on the C.H., stroke and rod length,
> > it tells me the blocks may be of a different height.
> >
> >  455;
> > [C.H.=1.74"] + [rod length=6.735"] + [strokeX.5 = 2.125"] = 10.6
> >
> > 425;
> > [C.H.=1.615"] + [rod length=7"] + [strokeX.5 = 1.9875"] = 10.6625
> >
> >  I didn't measure the difference in the pushrods, but it was around 
.040"-.060".
> >
> > Dave Brode
> > 64 Cutlass
> > .
>
> - --
> Cliff Simpson
> csimpson@ucalgary.ca
> '69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
> http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 16:11:24 EST
From: EDZX6@aol.com
Subject: Re: Drag Racing expertise needed

Randy
I am running a stock buttom end with stock (unported) 7a heads but not stock
exhaust manifolds, I have hooker headers with 2 1/4 pipes running all the way
back with flowmasters. The holley 600cfm is a double pumper, not sure if that
makes any difference.

Eddie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 16:31:34 -0500
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re:  39 degree 425 and 455 pushrod difference

Dave

        I would like to have the casting and block code letter on that engine.
The only 39 degree block made for a 425 had a .921 lifter bore in it and was
used on the Toro's. All the other ones are suppose to be 45 degree. 

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts


At 04:09 PM 2/10/99 , you wrote:
>Cliff,
> The 425 is a 39 degree/.842" block, just like the 455s. This is why i'm
>puzzled. The only thing I can surmise is the deck is farther away from the
>crank C/L on the 425, than on the 455? The math i posted hints that this
>may be the case, and the 425 pushrods are longer..
>Dave
>
>>
>>
>> Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 21:47:41 -0700
>> From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
>> Subject: Re: 425/455 block/pushrod difference
>>
>> There was a thread about this a while ago.  I believe it was about
>> whether the pushrods should be longer or shorter on the 39 degree
>> motor.  It all boiled down to the fact that the crank is in the
>> intersection of the two banks but the cam is above that.  Therefore the
>> 39 degree pushrods should be shorter than the 45 if my mental experiment
>> is correct.
>>
>> David Brode wrote:
>> >
>> > Hello all,
>> >  A fellow list member and I were comparing some pushrods yesterday and
>> > found that ones from a 455 were of a different length than those from a 39
>> > degree/.842 425 [block #...244]. This puzzled me, as I thought they should
>> > be the same.
>> >
>> >  I wonder if anyone has measured these blocks from the crank C/L to the
>> > deck? I ask because if you do the math on the C.H., stroke and rod length,
>> > it tells me the blocks may be of a different height.
>> >
>> >  455;
>> > [C.H.=1.74"] + [rod length=6.735"] + [strokeX.5 = 2.125"] = 10.6
>> >
>> > 425;
>> > [C.H.=1.615"] + [rod length=7"] + [strokeX.5 = 1.9875"] = 10.6625
>> >
>> >  I didn't measure the difference in the pushrods, but it was around 
>.040"-.060".
>> >
>> > Dave Brode
>> > 64 Cutlass
>> > .
>>
>> - --
>> Cliff Simpson
>> csimpson@ucalgary.ca
>> '69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
>> http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html
>>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 16:34:27 -0500
From: Ryan Sieler <rsieler@adrian.edu>
Subject: RE: speaking of dual snorkel

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I have an 87 442 I bought it from my parents who bought it new in 1987.  
It does not have the dual snorkel, does anyone know if these came with the 
chrome
dual snorkel, why would mine not have it?  I am looking to purchase another 
442 
tomorrow night, its a Dark Teal Blue 86 442.  Thanks for any input..  
Oldsmobile's Rock!!!!!!

[Ryan Sieler]   87 442 
		 86 442 (hopefully after tomorrow)  :-)
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 16:22:26 -0500
From: "Ken" <olds442@en.com>
Subject: Re: Drag Racing expertise needed

Ed,

I had the same problem with my 67 442 4 speed.  Tires were 31"x10.5 slicks,
4.56:1 rearend.  They dead hooked no matter what rpm I launched at.  Serious
stumble/bog net a 2.2 60ft time, 12.40-12.50@110.  I called everyone I could
think of about this.  Installing jet extensions did nothing.  Switching to a
26"x10.5 slick resulted in same bog and same poor 60ft time 12.40-12.50@103
and shifting 500 or so rpm higher in all gears which took my motor out of
its power range.  Talked to some gear heads at goracing.com and was told to
increase the pressure in the slicks till they turned abit off launch or
adjust the clutch so it slips abit on launch.  Also was told that getting a
racing flywheel like mondello sells would help keep the rpm's up during
launch.  Unfortunatly never got to try any of this due to the season ending.
Instead put the motor in a 78 Cutlass with a TCI th350/9" converter (4k
stall).  In first outing car would get 1.8 60 ft times and 12.15-12.20@110
with the auto.  I'm not much of a carb guy so never got it dialed in rite.
This winter switched from 9.5:1 compression to 11:1.  Also got rid of the
stock tired "E" heads in favor of a set of Edelbrock aluminum ones, and
swapped the .520@244 hyd. cam for a .600@275 solid cam.  Also finally got
that big shot nitrous set up hooked up.  It's been on the motor for 2 years,
looking cool but I never hooked up the electrical.  I may also switch to a
dual quad tunnel ram set up and ditch the dominator super sonic set up, but
that would prob just lead to more carb problems.  Regardless she should run
abit better this year.


Ken

>Joe
>I'm using 25" tall tires now, and when I launch the tires stick! The
problem
>I'm having is that it seems like it doesn't matter at what RPM I launch the
>car has the same problem. The car seems to stumble of the line, I don't
have
>this problem on the street where at 3000 RPM the wheels go up in smoke. I
>realize that at the strip there's a lot more traction but I can't figure
this
>stumbling out. I even installed jet ext on the carb thinking that maybe it
>wasn't getting fuel but no luck. Any ideas??
>
>Eddie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 15:32:54 -0600
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: Re:  39 degree 425 and 455 pushrod difference

At 04:09 PM 2/10/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Cliff,
> The 425 is a 39 degree/.842" block, just like the 455s. This is why i'm
>puzzled. The only thing I can surmise is the deck is farther away from the
>crank C/L on the 425, than on the 455? The math i posted hints that this
>may be the case, and the 425 pushrods are longer..
>Dave
>

Been off the list for awhile and missed  somethings, but the last time I
looked at Mondello's and Dave Smith's catalogs(last night) there were no
425's  with 0.842" lifters in a 39 degree block.  Plenty of 425's with
.842's in 45 degree blocks and of course the Toro 425 with 0.921" lifters
in a 39 degree block.  I've got the Toro and yes, the pushrods are
different than the 455's.  I suggest you measure the diameter of the
lifters in your 425 block.  If they are 0.842's, then pull the cam and see
how the lobe centers line up and check your (I assume everyone has one)
Mondello Reference manual.  I'd be surprised as heck if it wasn't a 45
degree cam.


If it is infact a 425 with 0.842's and 39 degrees, then the next thing to
do is check the heads for hemi chambers....then the bottom end for four
bolt mains..better yet,  a cross bolter.....if you confirm all this, check
the "born on date" on the bottom of one of those cans next to the block.......

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 16:50:29 -0500
From: "Gary Couse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Headlight Surgery - Temp Gone

Sorry List, This was meant off list...

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com 

Custom Conversion Prototype: 
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Gary Couse
> Sent: Wednesday, February 10, 1999 1:44 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: Headlight Surgery - Temp Gone

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 13:51:37 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Chevrolet 350

I believe this is so because there are more chevy's made.  The 350 chevy 
has had the longest run also.  I am glad Oldsmobiles aren't that common.  
Who wants to be like everyone else?

>I have a simple question.  WHY IS bow-tie SB 350 so popular.  I 
understand
>now because parts are way cheaper then anything else and it provides 
good
>cubic-inches.  But why did it become so popular.  I know that there was 
lots
>of Chevys around, but there was also tons of Olds, Ford and even Mopar.  
I
>wish that Olds was that popular.  It would make our lives (and pocket 
books)
>a lot easier to live with. Igor.
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 16:53:57 -0500
From: "CNU E-Mail" <cbrooster@iname.com>
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 16:55:02 -0500
From: "CNU E-Mail" <cbrooster@iname.com>
Subject: Unsubcribe oldsmobile-digest

Unsubcribe oldsmobile-digest

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 16:57:52 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 39 degree 425 and 455 pushrod difference

> The 425 is a 39 degree/.842" block, just like the 455s. This is why i'm
>puzzled. The only thing I can surmise is the deck is farther away from the
>crank C/L on the 425, than on the 455? The math i posted hints that this
>may be the case, and the 425 pushrods are longer..
>Dave
_______

Well, it this were true, then a 425 intake wouldn't fit a 455.  Since it
_does_, we can rule out a deck height difference.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 17:05:32 -0500
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: FS: New parts

Hey everyone,

	Got some good stuff and some good news for the people with 64 cars. I 
have
been watching the posts on the molded upper radiator hoses and started to
do some research. I found a company to us with the correct molded hoses.
Both upper and lowers.

64 F-85/Cutlass 330 Molded Radiator Hoses (upper and lower)  $47.00 set
64 F-85/Cutlass Grille Assm  $50.00
67 Cutlass Grille Bar (very nice)  $45.00
70-72 Dash Pad (mint, tan/saddle)  $175.00
65 Big Car 4 bbl Air Cleaner  $45.00 
65 442 Air Cleaner (complete, top w/nipple and base) $185.00
70-72 Vista Cruiser Rear Bumper (very good)  $100.00
70-72 Vista Cruiser 3rd Seat Assm  $55.00
70-72 Vista Cruiser Rear side panels (black, nice)  $125.00 set
455 Block $150.00  
66-67 SSI Wheels (5 good to very good cond) $250.00


Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts
(757)474-0869

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 17:13:34 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: 69 H/O on ebay

Everyone.  I got an email response from the guy selling the 69 H/O on
ebay.  I asked for his VIN plus some other pertinent info.  It's Hurst
Performance Research Number is #289, and it IS on the list of Demmer
records as a genuine Hurst.  Just in case anyone was worried about that.

It doesn't have air, so 3.42 or 3.91 gears were standard, and power
steering.  He listed the obvious ones too like pb and auto trans.

From the sound of it it seems like a mid to late april build, but I'm
not sure.  The VIN last 6 is 356943, which checks out as a gennie.

He sent me a couple of pics, and one thing right away I noticed is that
it has 83/84 H/O wheels and Eagle GT tires on it.  Obviously the wrong
ones, but they look nice.  He says 67K on the clock, and it's apparent
condition seems to reflect that.  However, a couple things bother me
with the pics...

For one, the H/O fender emblem seems a bit high.  Should be in the
neighborhood of about 7 inches from the top of the bottom fender stripe.

The front bumper looks to be all twisted up.  I'd be wary about it being
an original one.  The hood tongue APPEARS to have been bent back
slightly, but the camera angle could play a part in this.

Hard to tell if it's the correct gold color stripes.  The photo was
taken a bit over exposed, so a close up inspection would be the only
way.

Just my observations, but it certainly is a genuine Hurst.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 16:58:48 -0600 (CST)
From: HDJman@webtv.net
Subject: [none]

subscribe oldsmoble

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 13:20:16 -0600 (CST)
From: blue442@webtv.net
Subject: Sheet metal thickness-68 442

Hello Oldsfolk,
Can anyone tell me what gauge sheet metal is on my 68 442?  In my quest
for a better Olds and even more garage clutter I've decided to buy a
welder. More specificly, I'm looking for one best "tuned" for the
fenders & quater panels.

I'm looking at the Craftsman wire welders, because of availability and
price. (read: Sears Card :-)  

TIA
Jeff Carter
blue442@webtv.net 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 01:59:29 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: speaking of dual snorkel

if anyone has karl sarpolis' number and or address let me know could have a
little work for him thanx...KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: Semantana Chris (ONEX) <SemantanaC@tce.com>
To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, February 10, 1999 10:20 AM
Subject: RE: speaking of dual snorkel


>
>> Karl Sarpolis makes 68-69 dual snorkel air cleaners.   He is in IL.
>>
>Yes, most notably, he can convert your 68-69 single snorkel to a dual
>snorkel.  He may do other years too, but that's the only ones that stick
out
>in my mind since I have a 69.  I believe Mark Cornea, or someone, may have
>his number handy, as I don't.
>
>Chris Smetana
>Terre Haute, IN
>http://www.abcs.com/chris/
>
>1969 W-31
>1969 4-4-2 parts car
>plus others

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 16:28:45 -0600
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: Re: 39 degree 425 and 455 pushrod difference

At 04:57 PM 2/10/99 -0500, you wrote:
>> The 425 is a 39 degree/.842" block, just like the 455s. This is why i'm
>>puzzled. The only thing I can surmise is the deck is farther away from the
>>crank C/L on the 425, than on the 455? The math i posted hints that this
>>may be the case, and the 425 pushrods are longer..
>>Dave
>_______
>
>Well, it this were true, then a 425 intake wouldn't fit a 455.  Since it
>_does_, we can rule out a deck height difference.
>
>Joe Padavano


  As Jim C. pointed out(in a round about way) he may have a 455 block.  As
to reasons for the push rod difference in length: 
	1.	the block angle difference
	2.	if it has the 0.921" lifters, they may also be longer(never 
bothered to
measure 
		mine)
	3.	variations in rocker configurations(i.e. my '65 A heads) may 
account
for some 
		as well as they are different than later 45 degree block 
pushrods.

Later,

Paul 	Brillhart

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 14:41 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: dual-snorkel air cleaners

   Bill Reilly mentions a dual snorkel air cleaner system he saw 
advertised in Car Craft, and which he described as "cheesy" or 
something similar.  I'm not sure what ad he saw, but if it was
by a company called Air Inlet Systems, based in Canada, the 
dual-snorkel air cleaner they make is considered to be about the
best one you can buy from the point of good airflow design. It
is well designed with smooth curved surfaces and no sharp bends
or turns so that the incoming air flows in smoothly and with
minimum turbulence. It is far better than any OEM air-cleaner I
have seen from this point of view.  It is also highly recommended
by David Vizard in his "How to make horsepower - carbs and intake
manifolds" book. The only downside to me is the $100 price, which
is four times higher than a junkyard OEM air cleaner. 

   Of course, if you're running a stock engine choked up with a
single exhaust pipe then a high-flowing air cleaner design is
the least of your worries, and any junkyard unit will probably 
do just fine. On the other hand if you have a worked engine with
a big 4-bbl carb, cam, and good dual exhaust or headers the
air cleaner snorkel can be quite a big restriction on airflow,
and something like the Air Inlet Systems one would help.

   My 2 cents - don't cut up a rare original, even if its not
worth much today it will be in a few years, and if it's worth
more than $100 today then why not buy the Air Inlet Systems one
and get a better design for the same amount of money? 

- -John Carri

'72 Cutlass Supreme
'73 Plymouth Road Runner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 17:05:29 -0600
From: Joe Novak <cujmn4@pen.eiu.edu>
Subject: Re: Zigs

Where do you go in Downers Grove?  I think I may have been out that way before
but I'm not sure.  Is that where everyone lines up on the main street of the
town close to a train station.  I have friends that live a few blocks from the
Frosted Mug and the Blue Top, both great spots.  Have any of you ever been to
Daddy O's? They've got pretty cool burnout contests on Sunday's in the summer I
think.

Joe Novak
http://www.pen.eiu.edu/~cujmn4
1987 Olds Cutlass Salon

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 18:13:05 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Drag Racing expertise needed

> From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
>
> I believe but not forsure.  That all GM gear ratio's were calculated at
26"
> tall tires as a standard hieght.
> __________
> 
> Uh, sorry, but the gear ratio is only a function of the number of teeth
on
> the pinion and ring gears and is not effected by tire size at all.  A
3.23
> ratio will be a 3.23 ratio with 26" tires, 29" slicks, or no tire
installed
> at all.  However, changing the tire diameter _will_ have the same effect
as
> changing the gear ratio.  Per my previous example, if you originally had
> 3.23 gears and were running 27" tall tires, changing to 25" tall tires
> would have exactly the same effect as running 3.48-ish gears with the
> original 27" tires.
> 

What I was trying to say ----- was bascially the same as you are Joey.  If
you say running a 25" tall tire is like running 3.48's then you are saying
that the tire hieght does effect how the gear ratio effect.

What I was trying to explain was that the tire hieghts on all cars were
infact 26" tires and if you changed the tire hieght to less then 26" tires
you would be increasing the gear ratio and if you ran 29" slicks you are
lessening the ratio effect to near 2.42 - ish.

And i know the ring and pinion determine the gear .

Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 18:08:05 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: TADA!!! Yipee!! Now what?

The same thing happened when I changed to an AOD in my old Volvo.  Since
the car has no frame I used a center punch to start a hole smaller than
the self tapping bolts I picked up at the parts store.  The bolts pushed
and threaded their way into the frame until YIPEE!  my trans was
securely in place.  Since your car has a real frame, you could do the
same thing with a sharp drill bit and some lock washers and strong nuts
and bolts.  
Brian.

Norm Muelleman wrote:
> 
> I DID IT!!! Happy Daze are here again!!!
> The 79 T/A now has an engine again! However, there were some minor problems
> along the way...
> 1. Lost fingernail
> 2. Butterfly stitch last night due to knucle colliding with cylinder head
> while trying to remove head bolt...down to the bone
> 
> The good news: When I pulled the oil pan last night, at around midnight, I
> found NO gunk, shavings, etc. in the pan. Also, when the heads were removed,
> the cylinder walls were smooth..no nicks, etc. There was a very small ridge
> at the top of the cylinder walls, but I left that alone.
> 
> I also broke a small part of the lip of the distributor base off. The
> transmission TH375 is NOT the same length as a TH350. The crossmember is too
> far forward! So, I placed a jack under the tranny while finishing the engine
> mount bolts. Well, I moved the car, and the jack slipped, and the
> distributor caught the trans tunnel. OOPS! Oh well...
> 
> So, I have no idea what to do about the trans. I used the trans bracket to
> rest the tranny on..I guess I'll have to have someone come over and weld
> brackets to the subframe..any ideas on what to do? Any  universal trans
> mounts available?
> 
> If I wasn't sooo darn tired, I'd love to finish up, and start it! Maybe by
> tonight...gotta take a nap!
> 
> Norm (It's getting closer..the car will soon run!) Muelleman
> ICQ: 3156478
> norm806@dialnet.net
> 
> View my webpage at: http://members.dialnet.net/norm806
> Updated 2-9-99  Now with Sound!!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 15:20:40 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Non olds: what the heck is E-bay?

Ebay has nothing to do with aol sorry!!!

>EBAY is an aol auction site with tons of stuff you can bid on 


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 18:19:09 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: Chevrolet 350

well, the Oldsmobile 350 started before the Chevy 350...

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 18:19:59 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: TADA!!! Yipee!! Now what?

> So, I have no idea what to do about the trans.
_______

I'm no F-body expert, but it sure seems to me that at least some second gen
F-cars used TH400s (same length as your TH375).  For example, I've gotta
believe that the 70 big block Camaros and the SD-455 Trans Ams at a minimum
used the TH400 (along with probably every big block T/A ever made).  Are
these crossmembers available from the F-body supply houses, or in wrecking
yards?

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 18:16:53 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rocket 350

Cutlass Supreme is C/S

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 15:41:16 -0800
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: Rocker Pedestal Shims

Do any of you have any idea why someone would put 16/32's shims underneath
my rocker arm pedestals?

My mechanic found them there, put in purposefully by the builder for a
reason unknown to us.

Look forward to your thoughts.

thanks
cf

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 17:43:49 -0600 (CST)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Kevin D. Wood)
Subject: Dual Gate Shifter

Everybody is talking about dual gate shifters now, so if you want a used
one (aftermarket)
you can have your very own.

I have a decent used version of the one that
is selling on ebay- auction # 65262301 - which
is missing the original knob- (has been replaced
by some 4-speed knob by some knucklehead), and is also missing the "P R
N D S L" plate.

I have just worked up a deal in which I will get
a decent used original Olds set-up, so I don't
need this one anymore.  Works fine, and has
a cable and I also have the bracket for the 
transmission end as well.

$50 or best offer, including shipping.

Thanks, and have fun.
Kevin D. Wood
Dr-Olds@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 18:52:11 -0500
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Rocker Pedestal Shims

>Do any of you have any idea why someone would put 16/32's shims >underneath
my rocker arm pedestals?


16/32's........is this correct? That's 1/2"..........pretty big shim!

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 18:39:51 -0800
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Rocket 350 

  George, the old car shows 88,000 miles and the engine supports the miles
with the way it runs.  The engine is smooth, smokeless and quiet.  The
timing chain seems tight by rolling the crank back and forth.  The car
itself has been outside for five years and looks it, but it runs well.
Enough data?  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 10 Feb 1999 15:28 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: street 350 recipe wanted

  I'm looking for a simple buildup of the 350 in my '72 Supreme
for daily-driver use. Stock from the factory (Quadrajet,
single exhaust, 8.5:1 compression) it's rated at a sorry
180 net hp , and I'm hoping to push it to around the 250
net hp range, which seems a very reasonable goal. (The 340 
Mopar engine in my '73 Road Runner made 240 net hp 
in stock form from the factory, with the same 8.5:1
compression ratio but more cam and dual exhaust, and my
Olds has ten more cubic inches to work with.) 

   My car has the usual th350 tranny and a 3.07 rear gear, the
tires are 26.7 inches tall. I'm most interested in a good
0-60 time and decent freeway acceleration, I don't really
care about 1/4-mile times as I don't plan to drag-race
the car. (If I ever do race it, it will be road-racing,
not drag-racing!)  So I don't mind if it stops pulling hard
at 90 mph, just so long as its very responsive at 65 mph.
This all appears to point to a torque-oriented build up,
with a fairly mild cam. I plan to go to either dual exhaust
or headers to help with the torque and gas mileage.

   Anyone have a combo (cam,intake,etc) that works well
for this sort of usage, or know of one?  I could always
use the Edelbrock Performer build-up but I have the
impression that good though Edelbrocks intake manifolds
are, other companies make better cams. Crane, Comp Cams,
etc always seem to get more lift for the same duration
out of their cams than Edelbrock does, and often more
lift with less duration than the big E, perfect for lots
of torque at low rpm levels.

    Recently I saw an article on a low-budget build-up of
a Ford 400 V8 (I think this was the late 70's smogger
replacement for the 351 M engine) which used a 268 deg
cam - I think a Crane Maximum Velocity cam , hyperutectic
cast pistons with around a 9:1 CR, and really nothing else 
special (3 angle valve job and headers) which made almost
1 hp/cubic inch (around 390 hp at around 5500 rpm if 
I recall right) and more than 400 lb-ft of torque down
low around 2600 rpm, perfect for a street engine in a
heavy car.  I'm wondering if either my Olds 350 or else
an Olds 403 can be built to do as well. I'll settle for
the same specific output (hp per cubic inch and torque
per cubic inch), I don't expect my 350 to do what
a 400 engine can do.
 
    Looking forward to your replies!

- -John Carri

'72 Olds Cutlass Supreme
'73 Plymouth Road Runner 
   

   

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1765
*********************************

