Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1741


oldsmobile-digest      Friday, January 29 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1741



Re: Classic Car Insurance
Re: [Diesel 350]
Re: Woodgrain
rip-off artist
Re: th200c to th200-4r swap ?s
Re: Welding L. Control Arms for Traction
Re: Welding L. Control Arms for Traction
Re: Oldsmobile (70-72 W-Machine Cutlass Convert) In Moive
73 H/O
Re: Body work HORROR story + PLEASE Help W/Sheetmetal!
Re: Welding L. Control Arms for Traction
Re: rip-off artist
subscribe
Make an 85 Cutlass 350 a 4 speed car?
testing testing (just delete this)
Re: Fw: WATCH OUT FOR THE "BADTIMES" VIRUS!!!! NON OLDS
Re: rip-off artist
Temporary Uns*b
Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming
`Re: Body work HORROR story + PLEASE Help W/Sheetmetal!
Re: 73 H/O
cryro
Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming  (One last time o r 2)
Re: rip-off artist
Feasibility of a site with list of Olds sellers and ratings.
Re: 73 H/O
Rearend question
Re: Body work HORROR story + PLEASE Help W/Sheetmetal!
PART NEEDED
Re: Rearend question
Priming and an idea(Was Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming)
test (delete)
Re: Feasibility of a site with list of Olds sellers and ratings.
Re: Feasibility of a site with list of Olds sellers and ratings.
Got my appraisal yesterday
Re: Priming and an idea(Was Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming)
Engine Detailing
Re: Rearend question
Re: Engine Detailing
Re: Rearend question
Re: Feasibility of a site with list of Olds sellers and ratings.
Re: Priming and an idea(Was Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming)
Re: Priming and an idea(Was Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming)
Back in the Oldsmohouse again
used headers needed!/List size
Re: Engine Detailing
Oldsmobiles arrived!
Re: Priming and an idea(Was Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 22:32:13 EST
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: Classic Car Insurance

I'm using American Collectors Insurance in Cherry Hill NJ (609-779-7212).
They're covering my 71 442 Conv at an "agreed value" of $15K.  Had to send
pictures of every angle, engine compartment, trunk and interior.  When they
saw the pictures they had no problem with the $15K and probably would've gone
higher.  No appraisal, but must be garaged.  They like you to be a club
member.   The "small print" says "must be used primarily for club/hobby
activities, but can be used for occasional pleasure drives.  Pleasure drives
do not include general transportation like errands, trips to work, malls, golf
courses, vacations or other uses which would involve leaving the car
unattended.  Annual mileage must not exceed 2500.  Cannot be used as
substitute transportation for a disabled family car or for timed or racing
events."  They carry my collision with a $500 deductible, they throw in $25 in
towing and $500 for spare parts off the car and I pay $61.50.  Comprehensive
with $500 ded. is another $25.50.  So for $87, I'm cool for a year.  I went
through my local agency, so this is no fly-by-night outfit, but I also haven't
tested their commitment.  
'Hope this is the info you're looking for...

Scott
71 442 Conv.
OCA#30994

------------------------------

Date: 28 Jan 99 19:37:47 PST
From: Jon Hart <hartjon@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Diesel 350]

oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:

Hi all
I'm wondering about the diesel 350.  Was it a good engine as far as diesels
go?  Would it be something that you'd want to use to tow things?  Or was it
just a gasoline engine in a diesel disguise?  Anyone know the specs?  I'd
like to add another future car fantasy to my list that would be an 87
duallie Cutlass that is Olds powered.  Thanks.

The diesel Olds was a low powered converted disaster for GM. In 1977 the 350
diesels could hardly make it out of the lots before blowing heads and gaskets.
My father owned one. While pulling an Appalacian grade the no 4 cyl blew
apart. The car limped to the dealership. GM paid for part of the repair then
later refunded the difference. 

I was involved with DDOG "disgruntled diesel owners group" while an intern at
a Washington low office. The same story for alot of the engines. GM has not
introduced a full sized car with diesl power since the disaster. If you want a
diesel try cramming a 7.3l Navistar Powerstroke



____________________________________________________________________
More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://home.netscape.com/netcenter/mail

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 22:38:08 EST
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: Woodgrain

Metal backed dash 3-piece set is about $125.
Scott
71 442 Conv

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 23:09:42 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: rip-off artist

I recently posted a message about how I have been ripped off to the tune of
$725 for some auto parts. I found out that the guy that pulled this off does
it for a living (police estimate about $10,000 a week). He rips of people by
answering internet classified ads for specialized items like auto parts and
vintage guitars. His name is Stefan Defimone or variations of this name. He
works out of Boston and Rhode Island. Be very careful he seems very sincere
and nice. He has the right words and knowledge about the item you want to
purchase. He seems to do his homework.
Save this message as a danger notice.

Name: Stefan Defimone, Steve DiFimone, Stephen Diangelo, etc.

Phone: 617-331-0655

E-mail address: Kisskreak@prodigy.net

If this person contacts you, do not send him money in any shape or form. If
you have caller ID, call the Boston Police department with the phone number
right away. They want him bad.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 23:32:15 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: th200c to th200-4r swap ?s

In a message dated 1/28/99 5:52:59 PM Pacific Standard Time, igor455@home.com
writes:

<< I am getting ready to do a th200c to th200-4r conversion to my '84
 delta 88. I have found what appears to be a good shop that is
 willing to work with me. They have a core th200-4r out of an '84
 delta wagon for $50. Here's the plan: Rebuild the th200-4r to Olds
 442/Buick GNX (+/-) specs with shift kit. I will also be changing the
 rear end to 4.10s. From what I have read on the olds faq, there are
 differing quality trannys for different applications - ie - the 442/GNX
 trannys were built with more heavy duty parts, etc. Should I hold
 out for a better core?
  >>

      I doubt there are any differences in ANY of the 200-4R cases strength
wise, except the variation sin castings year to year. More often than not, the
newer the part, car, etc., the more bugs have been worked out of it. I would
be very surprised if finding most, if not all GN upgrade parts, can be found
at a local transmission shop. (servos, accumulator, etc. I'm guessing) I don't
know if the valve body themselves are different, or if it is just the valves.
Maybe the Turbo Regal page will say what the differences are. You can bet
people that race the 200-4R know what the differences are between the high
performance and standard 200-4R's, and where to get the parts to keep them
running.   Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 23:42:31 EST
From: DrkSole96@aol.com
Subject: Re: Welding L. Control Arms for Traction

In a message dated 1/28/99 7:48:36 PM Central Standard Time,
mbloomer@minspring.com writes:

<< Actually all you have to do is tack weld the bracket in place and then
 box the arms and it won't be a problem.  
 Mike Bloomer
 mbloomer@mindspring.com
 ICQ# 19113713
 http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/ >>


Why weld it?  That'd make it a pain to remove the bracket wouldn't it?  I was
running Herb Adams 1.5" rear bar on my cutlass, and it snapped the mounting
bolts on one side.  You can stil get new brackets from GM for around $10.  

DrkSole96@aol.com
73 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 23:08:03 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@minspring.com>
Subject: Re: Welding L. Control Arms for Traction

I mentioned tacking it in place so if you ever have to remove all
the bolts it won't float around loose inside the boxed arm.  You
won't be able to remove the bracket once the arm is boxed anyway
so it won't hurt anything.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

>In a message dated 1/28/99 7:48:36 PM Central Standard Time,
>mbloomer@minspring.com writes:
>
><< Actually all you have to do is tack weld the bracket in place and then
> box the arms and it won't be a problem.
> Mike Bloomer
>
>
>Why weld it?  That'd make it a pain to remove the bracket wouldn't it?  I
was
>running Herb Adams 1.5" rear bar on my cutlass, and it snapped the mounting
>bolts on one side.  You can stil get new brackets from GM for around $10.
>
>DrkSole96@aol.com
>73 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 00:08:53 -0500
From: "Erik Gertsen" <ainode@frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile (70-72 W-Machine Cutlass Convert) In Moive

possibly , i may be getting one from pennsylvania. 
what shap is it in?
Erik
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: C Thomas <cthomas@stny.lrun.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 1999 10:16 PM
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile (70-72 W-Machine Cutlass Convert) In Moive


>
>Does anyone out there Need parts for a 64 Jetstar 88 Im buying one for
>$400.00 this spring alls I want is the 330 Under the Hood.
>Chad Thomas
>1985 Culass Iroc-ss
>www.442.com/cthomas.html
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 00:27:49 EST
From: RmeCbtEngr@aol.com
Subject: 73 H/O

 I just aquired a 73 H/O  and need some help aquiring info for restoration ,
the car is complete except for air cleaner and hood ornament , im looking for
pictures and a way to decipher the  VIN, 
 unfortunately  the build sheet is no longer in the car , ALSO  did this car
come with a full vinly top or has this been added , im the 2nd owner  

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 23:38:03 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@minspring.com>
Subject: Re: Body work HORROR story + PLEASE Help W/Sheetmetal!

Steve,
This isn't what your going to want to hear but you're pretty much SOL
trying to find a complete floorpan.  Your best bet would be to find a
car in a junkyard and cut the pans out of it.  Even if it has some rust
in it you can likely salvage those sections from the new pieces you
bought that were butchered.  It all depends on how much your willing
to spend and whether you want it to fit and function correctly or to look
100% original, even in the places you can't see.  I have salvaged a
couple cars that have been "torched" either for floor pan replacement
or wheel tubs, and as long as this guy didn't take too much material
out you can likely salvage most of what's there.  Trying to get bits and
pieces of the floor from a junkyard will likely be easier than trying to
get a complete one.  Luckily your down south where getting good
sheetmetal should be an easy chore.  Your first step should be to
find a good shop that can handle the job to repair your baby.  They
will be able to assess the damage and tell you what is salvagable and
what you need.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/


>Get a box ok Kleenex for this one 'cuz you're gonna cry (I did),
>
<snip>   He removed the old pans with
>a cutting torch.  The only original material left is the center hump, which
>is about 5" across.  He then just placed the new ones in without any
>modifications/trimming of the old material. The driver's side is lower than
>the passenger's side so the reinforcing bracket (Which goes to the body to
>frame hold down bolts) had to be ~tweaked~ to make a somewhat close fit.
>The left side does not even line up with the body mount bolt, so I am
>currently one bolt shy of a complete hold down.
>
>I NEED to find a reputable Sheet metal vendor somewhere that will sell me a
>full length floor pan.  From Firewall to the hump in the floor of the rear
>seats.
>
>
>Steve Reed
>'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
>Austin, TX
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 06:15:16 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Welding L. Control Arms for Traction

>>If so, you just slide the stabilizer bar into place,
>>install the four bolts, cinch them down, and *voila*, you've boxed your
>>lower control arms. In fact, welding a plate of steel would preclude you
>>from easily using a factory-style rear sway bar.
>>
>Actually all you have to do is tack weld the bracket in place and then
>box the arms and it won't be a problem.  

If you welded those brackets, you'd never be able to access the bolt holding
the sway bar on, since the head is *inside* the control arm when installed.

I suppose you could weld some plate on the short length (maybe an inch or
two) of open channel between where the sway bar bracket ends and the bushing
is, but that's probably not worth doing unless you've got a torch and some
spare steel around to do the job yourself. I certainly wouldn't pay anyone
else for that, as the added stiffness would be so small as to be unmeasureable.
_______________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry   MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
http://studentweb.providence.edu/~rbarry/wheels

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 06:44:24 -0800
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: rip-off artist

- -----Original Message-----
From: Edward Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
To: Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, January 28, 1999 8:09 PM
Subject: rip-off artist

  Thanks, Ed.  Sorry it happened to you, but, with your help, maybe it won't
happen to anyone else on the list.  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 06:44:34 -0500
From: Roger Nienberg <nienberg.2@wright.edu>
Subject: subscribe

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Subscribe nienberg.2@wright.edu


This should hopefully work I copy-pasted right out of outlook.

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<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Subscribe <A=20
href=3D"mailto:nienberg.2@wright.edu">nienberg.2@wright.edu</A></FONT></D=
IV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>This should hopefully work I copy-pasted right out =
of=20
outlook.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 09:15:00 -0600
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Make an 85 Cutlass 350 a 4 speed car?

What does it take to make a 85 G-Body a 5 speed or 4 speed car?  I would
like to keep the 2.14 gears and then go with a wide ratio 4 speed.  It would
be much nicer driving!

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 10:23:31 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: testing testing (just delete this)

I told you to delete it!!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 10:07:54 -0600
From: C K <bloom9@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Fw: WATCH OUT FOR THE "BADTIMES" VIRUS!!!! NON OLDS

So, how do I send this virus to my boss? Hee Hee!

Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass

On Thu, 28 Jan 1999 14:51:53 -0600 "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
writes:
>Master Lou
>lbiggs@intertek.net
>
>JOKE!!! No Flames required
>
>> Subject: WATCH OUT FOR THE "BADTIMES" VIRUS!!!!
>
>> If you receive an email entitled "Bad Times," delete it immediately! 
> Do
>> not
>> open It!         <snip>

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 09:31:38 -0500
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: rip-off artist

> From comid@jellico.com Thu Jan 28 23:09:26 1999

> I recently posted a message about how I have been ripped off to the tune of
> $725 for some auto parts. 

<SNIP>

> Name: Stefan Defimone, Steve DiFimone, Stephen Diangelo, etc.
> 
> Phone: 617-331-0655

Typing away at a 617 area code location right now...

> 
> E-mail address: Kisskreak@prodigy.net
> 
> If this person contacts you, do not send him money in any shape or form. If
> you have caller ID, call the Boston Police department with the phone number
> right away. They want him bad.

Yowsa.. Definitely saving this mail message and will remember the name.

Sorry you got shafted Ed; luckily most Olds folks in N.E. are good ppl
with which to do business (Everett Horton, Fusicks, Bill LaPierre, etc.).


Tim Churchill  tchurchill@draper.com  OCA #30327  Framingham, MA
- ----------------------------------------------------------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, new a.k.a 'Old Gold'
'98 VW Passat GLS Wagon, a.k.a. 'der Kinderwagen'

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 11:52:56 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Temporary Uns*b

Our crack(ed) MIS department will be upgrading our server over the weekend
with the result that it will be offline.  I'll be uns*bscr*b*ng from the
realtime list later this afternoon for the duration of the upgrade.  I'll
be maintaining my digest on Rocketmail (I'd likely _die_ if I didn't have
some Olds list fix over the weekend).  Hopefully I'll be back sometime on
Monday, but given MIS's past history, I'm not holding my breath.  If
necessary, contact me at:

joe_padavano@rocketmail.com

Later

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 09:34:18 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming

Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming

>> By pressurizing the oil galleys and rotating the motor by hand you
>> can get oil to every part of the motor without danger of scuffing a
>> bearing or such.
>
>How would this differ from what I described?

> The answer is in the last sentence. When you turn the motor over via the
> starter, the internals are moving WITHOUT being lubed first. No
> oil.......metal to metal.........premature wear.

I Agree totally, but wouldn't the oil applied to the bearings during
assembly be enough for the 20 seconds until the engine gets oil circulated
from the oil pump.  I'm referring to the engine ~not~ running, just
rotating, therefore no load is being applied to any bearing, and or mating
surface.  

It's Just like turning the crank as you install each piston/rod assembly.
What's the difference??

> You are only turning the crank a turn or two to "open" the oil passages.

What do you mean a crank or two.  When I do this I use the starter to turn
the engine over for approximately 1.5 mins.

> You'll know if you did right when oil comes out all the pushrods.

Wouldn't this be achieved by my process listed earlier (No Spark & Gas)?

> When we do my buddy's race motor we spin the oil pump (with a drill)until
> the oil pressure hits about 80 psi and then rotate the crank. 

I can see your point, when I do this I get the same, maybe 60 PSI on the
gauge.  But there is absolutely ~no~ load (Compression/fire) on any
Rod/Crankshaft assembly.

[SNIP]


> Naw....I better not make say what I was gonna..........flame suit is out
to
> the cleaners. ;-)

Don't worry about me, I up for a good debate, not an argument, and I like to
hear everyone's experience.

I just do not understand how the processes differ.

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 09:39:22 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: `Re: Body work HORROR story + PLEASE Help W/Sheetmetal!

> Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 15:34:12 -0500
> From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
> Subject: Re: Body work HORROR story + PLEASE Help W/Sheetmetal!

> Stephen,

> I'm no body expert as this next question will probably show. Can't you cut
> the floorpan out again and trim it up to level things out?

> I just thinking that you have to remove it again anyway and it sounds like
> you have too much material (metal) there.

> Educate me,
> Randy

Randy,
	I will have to cut out the old (New Year One pans) to replace, but
the job was BUTCHERED.  It would be one thing if I could use the type of
vise grips in Eastwood catalog to make a raised & Lowered surface for mating
on each piece,  I will try and find a friend with a digital camera and scan
an image.  It's just horrible.  There are gaps between the old & new metal
with just blobs of mig weld holding it together.

	I am a pro with engines and mechanical assemblies, but body work is
not my forte'.  And therefore, this time I think I will leave it to the
pros.

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 12:37:58 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 73 H/O

I have a 73 Olds Cutlass 455 4speed with 8,900 origainal miles and my webpage
has alot of info about vin #s and codes etc...check it out and if you have any
questions email from my site  http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 10:41:01 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: cryro

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Earlier I mentioned that cryogenics and vibration stress relief of =
engines works.  I have since done some asking around and found out that =
While cryro is well accepted in the tool making industry the jury is =
still out on the automotive application.  It seems that while the theory =
is sound the real world benefits are not well documented. =20

Vibration stress relief is accepted but I don't know at this time the =
amount of good it does and whether or not it would be beneficial for =
less then an all out race eng.

LP

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Times New Roman">Earlier I mentioned =
that=20
cryogenics and vibration stress relief of engines works.&nbsp; I have =
since done=20
some asking around and found out that While cryro is well accepted in =
the tool=20
making industry the jury is still out on the automotive =
application.&nbsp; It=20
seems that while the theory is sound the real world benefits are not =
well=20
documented.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"Times New Roman"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman">Vibration stress relief is accepted =
but I=20
don't know at this time the amount of good it does and whether or not it =
would=20
be beneficial for less then an all out race eng.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman"></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Times New Roman">LP</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 09:45:00 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming  (One last time o r 2)

> Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 12:37:34 -0800 (PST)
> From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
> Subject: C

>> How would this differ from what I described?  Turning the motor over
>> with
>> everything installed would do the same would it not?  I'm talking
>> about
>> turning over the motor via Starter, (As if you were going to
>> actually run
>> the engine), not manually by turning the crankshaft. I guess I
>> should have
>> been more descriptive, I couldn't imagine someone actually doing
>> this by
>> hand!!.
=================================
> Kind of the same. Except, with the drill, you have all the oil where
>you want it before anything even moves. When you crank the engine with
>the starter, all of those parts inside are moving with no oil until
>the pump primes and gets the oil there.

OK I see your point exactly, but I always apply a lot of oil to the
rockers/pushrods, cam, lifters, and oil on the crank and rod bearings.  I
see what you (And Others) were getting at.

I just figured since I have well lubricated the engine upon assembly that it
would not cause any premature wear by turning then engine over using my
'priming procedure'.

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 12:54:05 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: rip-off artist

Sorry to hear it Ed. But I'm a true believer in What Comes Around, Go's
Around. This asshole Stephin Dickfeminine or whatever he calls himself will
get his one of these days. Count on it. Then all those that have been
swindled by this dork will be avenged, whether they know it or not.

Omega Man
'74 Omega S 455








At 11:09 PM 1/28/99 -0500, you wrote:
>I recently posted a message about how I have been ripped off to the tune of
>$725 for some auto parts. I found out that the guy that pulled this off does
>it for a living (police estimate about $10,000 a week). He rips of people by
>answering internet classified ads for specialized items like auto parts and
>vintage guitars. His name is Stefan Defimone or variations of this name. He
>works out of Boston and Rhode Island. Be very careful he seems very sincere
>and nice. He has the right words and knowledge about the item you want to
>purchase. He seems to do his homework.
>Save this message as a danger notice.
>
>Name: Stefan Defimone, Steve DiFimone, Stephen Diangelo, etc.
>
>Phone: 617-331-0655
>
>E-mail address: Kisskreak@prodigy.net
>
>If this person contacts you, do not send him money in any shape or form. If
>you have caller ID, call the Boston Police department with the phone number
>right away. They want him bad.
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 11:29:22 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Feasibility of a site with list of Olds sellers and ratings.

I would like to hear what the list thinks of me, or someone else, keeping a
list of known "good" and known "bad" internet sellers of Oldsmobile stuff on a
web site.  I was thinking something like eBay where people could send in
positive or negative recommendations for others.  E.g.:

	John Doe	JDoe@aol.com		(555)585-1234
	Excellent:	5
	Good:		2
	Poor:		0
	Warning:	0

	Stefan Defimone	Kisskreak@prodigy.net	617-331-0655
	Excellent:	0
	Good:		0
	Poor:		0
	Warning:	1
	Known to use aliases and is wanted by police.

There would need to be a legalish warning that it only represented other
peoples opinions and that some people may be maliciously slandering other
people or assisting bad sellers develop unwarranted credibility.  Arbitration
would be nonexistent so if someone "slammed" you it would be up to you to find
and hurt them and make them retract it.  I'm not sure how confidentiality would
be handled.  E.g.. would someone who received a Poor be allowed to know who
sent it in?  Ideas?

Of course people would have to contribute Excellent, and Good recommendations
in addition to Poor and Warnings.  One of the ideas is to show volume of
business too.  E.g.. a Poor from someone with 50 Excellent's and 100 Goods is a
lot less scary than a Poor from a guy only 1 person has dealt with.

Is this something that the list would see as having value or not?  Would you
want your name on such a list?  Opinions, ideas, flames?
- -- 

Cliff "asbestos shorts" Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 13:33:24 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: 73 H/O

RmeCbtEngr@aol.com wrote:
> 
>  I just aquired a 73 H/O  and need some help aquiring info for restoration ,

Wow, nice car!!!

> the car is complete except for air cleaner and hood ornament , im looking for
> pictures and a way to decipher the  VIN,
>  unfortunately  the build sheet is no longer in the car , ALSO  did this car
> come with a full vinly top or has this been added , im the 2nd owner

VIN decoding http://members.aol.com/drewinva/vin/vin73.htm
H/O Club http://www.hurstolds.com
73-77 Cutlass Coupes http://members.aol.com/CUTLASCOUP/index.html
Abundant Olds info http://www.442.com/

Then, of course, try my homepage. I have production figues and option
codes for '73 cars on my page.

Hope you like your '73 Olds as much as I do mine.

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***********************
'70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
'73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
'75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 13:41:05 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Rearend question

How do I tell what gear ratios my car has? Is there a tag somewhere or would
my VIN give me any clue. I'd like to make the car a little faster off the line
without losing too much on the high end. It's a 350 4bbl.
Tia
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv. (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 13:46:44 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Body work HORROR story + PLEASE Help W/Sheetmetal!

Reed, Stephen wrote:
> 
> Get a box ok Kleenex for this one 'cuz you're gonna cry (I did),
> 
> I had my '70 4-4-2 totally disassembled.  Body supported outside on 4
> concrete blocks, with 4 x 4 timbers through the rear wheel well, and one
[snip of horrible story]
> 
> PLEASE, PLEASE SOMEONE help me out with a good vendor/source for these
> parts.  I BEG of you for assistance, as this is the next step in my
> restification, and I'm getting a good amount of $$ saved in the bank.

I think I may be able to help you. If I remember correctly, my catalog
from Sherman & Assoc. has floorpans. If you'd like, I'll e-mail the
folks and have them look it up.

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***********************
'70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
'73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
'75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 13:49:31 EST
From: Heiser5@aol.com
Subject: PART NEEDED

Hey all, 
   Hope you got Harmon's in Central ILL all cleaned out...although I keep in
touch with a buddy of mine that says they are still bringing the
Oldsmobiles...

Anyway, I am looking for a 70-72 Sport Steering Wheel, black hopefully with a
good button.  I am finally beginning to buy parts for my 71. Please e-mail me
privately if you can help. Thanks in advance,

Mark Heiser

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 13:57:29 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Rearend question

If you just want an approximation, raise both rear wheels of the ground,
mark the tire and the pinion and rotate the driveshaft. Count the number of
times the pinion rotates to 1 rotation of the tire. ie 3.5 to 1 . If you
want the exact ratio (and your rear could use an oil change) pull the cover
and count the teeth on both ring and pinion. Divide the ring # by the
pinion #. The answer is your exact ratio. Have fun.

Omega Man
'74 Omega S 455






At 01:41 PM 1/29/99 EST, you wrote:
>How do I tell what gear ratios my car has? Is there a tag somewhere or would
>my VIN give me any clue. I'd like to make the car a little faster off the
line
>without losing too much on the high end. It's a 350 4bbl.
>Tia
>Bruce
>75 Delta 88 conv. (duals of course)
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 11:47:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Priming and an idea(Was Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / 
Priming)

> OK I see your point exactly, but I always apply a lot of oil to the
> rockers/pushrods, cam, lifters, and oil on the crank and rod
bearings.  I
> see what you (And Others) were getting at.
> 
> I just figured since I have well lubricated the engine upon assembly
that it
> would not cause any premature wear by turning then engine over using
my
> 'priming procedure'.
================================
I coat all my parts with lots of oil also. I do believe that it
probably doesn't hurt anything the way you are doing it. Taken into
account that the engine doesn't sit too long after assembly. It's
probably more of a preference thing than anything. I just feel better
knowing there is oil there right at startup. Which brings me to this
question. (And if anyone makes something like this, I wan part of the
revenue!!!) Since the hardest thing on an engine is at startup, why
haven't they made something where as soon as you turn the key on, an
electric pump pumps oil to all the necessary places and then shuts off
when your engine starts to run or it senses oil pressure? This could
also serve as a backup in case your oil pump ever failed. Pressure
drops, pump kicks in, light on dash comes on telling you pump is bad
but still keeps oil pressure so you can get to somewhere to fix it. 

Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 15:44:05 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: test (delete)

This has only been a test. Had it been an actual emergency.......

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 12:22:36 -0800 (PST)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Feasibility of a site with list of Olds sellers and ratings.

  I thinkd this is a great idea.  Maybe even add a section to enter in
a short description of why you feel that the person is excellent,
good, fair, etc.  That way people could read the reasons for the
rating.  Also, this would reduce the false answers, as it would
actually take some effort to put in some false votes. 

Just my $.02 

Stefan
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
70cutlass@beer.com

- ---Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca> wrote:
>
> 
> I would like to hear what the list thinks of me, or someone else,
keeping a
> list of known "good" and known "bad" internet sellers of Oldsmobile
stuff on a
> web site.  I was thinking something like eBay where people could
send in
> positive or negative recommendations for others.  E.g.:
> 
> 	John Doe	JDoe@aol.com		(555)585-1234
> 	Excellent:	5
> 	Good:		2
> 	Poor:		0
> 	Warning:	0
> 
> 	Stefan Defimone	Kisskreak@prodigy.net	617-331-0655
> 	Excellent:	0
> 	Good:		0
> 	Poor:		0
> 	Warning:	1
> 	Known to use aliases and is wanted by police.
> 
> There would need to be a legalish warning that it only represented
other
> peoples opinions and that some people may be maliciously slandering
other
> people or assisting bad sellers develop unwarranted credibility. 
Arbitration
> would be nonexistent so if someone "slammed" you it would be up to
you to find
> and hurt them and make them retract it.  I'm not sure how
confidentiality would
> be handled.  E.g.. would someone who received a Poor be allowed to
know who
> sent it in?  Ideas?
> 
> Of course people would have to contribute Excellent, and Good
recommendations
> in addition to Poor and Warnings.  One of the ideas is to show
volume of
> business too.  E.g.. a Poor from someone with 50 Excellent's and 100
Goods is a
> lot less scary than a Poor from a guy only 1 person has dealt with.
> 
> Is this something that the list would see as having value or not? 
Would you
> want your name on such a list?  Opinions, ideas, flames?
> -- 
> 
> Cliff "asbestos shorts" Simpson
> mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
> '69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
> http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html
> 

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 13:00:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Feasibility of a site with list of Olds sellers and ratings.

- ---Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> 
>   I thinkd this is a great idea.  Maybe even add a section to enter in
> a short description of why you feel that the person is excellent,
> good, fair, etc.  That way people could read the reasons for the
> rating.  Also, this would reduce the false answers, as it would
> actually take some effort to put in some false votes. 
> 
> Just my $.02 
=========================
I think it sounds like a feasable idea. It would help relieve some
tension about buying over the net. And, I know that I wouldn't mind
having my name on there. After all, I have nothing to hide. (Except
for that poor guy who wants my GB door.......I have to get that from
my parents place! Sorry about the wait!) I think the small section for
comments is a good idea as well. 

Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 12:33:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Got my appraisal yesterday

  I got my appraisal for my 1970 Cutlass 'S' yesterday.  It was
evaluated at $4800.  The guy wrote "this car is in fair to good
condition...has the potential to be a good to excellent
restoration..."  I'm pretty happy with that.  So far all that I have
done to it are a new paint job, an under the dash Alpine stereo, an
alarm system, and a set of Cragar 5 star rims.  Everything else is
original (including the filthy engine compartment).  The next thing
that I'm doing is getting new tires (I currently have Road Kings,
ugh..), getting the suspension redone (whole front end especially) and
re-doing the seats and carpeting.  Anybody have any reccomendations
for suspension components and/or a good set of tires?

Thanks
==

     Stefan
     1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
     70Cutlass@Beer.com

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 16:25:45 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Priming and an idea(Was Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / 
Priming)

In a message dated 1/29/99 12:13:21 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rockman20@yahoo.com writes:

<< Since the hardest thing on an engine is at startup, why
 haven't they made something where as soon as you turn the key on, an
 electric pump pumps oil to all the necessary places and then shuts off
 when your engine starts to run or it senses oil pressure? This could
 also serve as a backup in case your oil pump ever failed. Pressure
 drops, pump kicks in, light on dash comes on telling you pump is bad
 but still keeps oil pressure so you can get to somewhere to fix it. 
 
 Del >>

      Del, I don't know if startup is actually the hardest on an engine. (not
after a complete rebuild, just day to day) I know I'm digging a hole here for
everyone to push me into, and I'm not trying to make enemies or anthing, but
looking in a newer car owners manual, it states idling is the hardest on an
engine, and that if you are going to be stopped for a minute or more, to shut
the car off, so as not to idle as long. I have no clue how idling can be worse
than starting though..maybe not as much cooling for the motor as when moving?
Or maybe the oil pump isn't moving as much oil around....Perhaps they are
figuring with the newer oils startup isn't bad (or as bad) due to the oil
still clinging to the parts. I don't know, but that is the only time I have
seen any reference by a factory manual about anything like that..never seen
anything except by the Slick 50 type lube companies saying startup is bad for
your motor. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 16:28:03 -0500
From: tonwald@eta.k12.mn.us (Tony Waldner)
Subject: Engine Detailing

I have a question for the datail gurus--

I am in the process of rebuilding the engine in my 70 W-30 convertible and
I am wondering about detailing it to factory specs.

Does anyone know if the lift strap loop on the drivers side front two
intake bolts get painted blue?  What about the water outlet?  My coupe is a
55,000 mile untouched original and these items on that car do not appear to
be painted. The previous owner painted these pieces on my rag top, but I
don't know if that is correct.

Any help?  Joe P.???

Another opinion:  My crank has to be cut .030 on both the mains and rods.
The machine shop said that this is no big deal.  All of my buddies
including myself feel that that is too far undersize for hard driving.  Any
thoughts/experiences?

TIA

Tony

70 442 W-30
70 442 W-30 convert
70 Toro GT W-34
65 Jetstar 88 w/4-speed
84 Hurst/Olds
85 Cutlass Salon 455 Drag Racer
92 Seville STS

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 16:29:16 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rearend question

In a message dated 1/29/99 11:02:32 AM Pacific Standard Time,
ggilpin@wrallp.com writes:

<< If you just want an approximation, raise both rear wheels of the ground,
 mark the tire and the pinion and rotate the driveshaft. Count the number of
 times the pinion rotates to 1 rotation of the tire. ie 3.5 to 1 . If you
 want the exact ratio (and your rear could use an oil change) pull the cover
 and count the teeth on both ring and pinion. Divide the ring # by the
 pinion #. The answer is your exact ratio. Have fun.
 
 Omega Man >>

      If you pull the cover off, the pinion/ring gear tooth count is stamped
on the side of GM ring gears. A little easier than counting teeth I think..and
exact. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 16:36:56 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Engine Detailing

Does anyone know if the lift strap loop on the drivers side front two
intake bolts get painted blue?  What about the water outlet?
________

Both should be blue.

===========

Another opinion:  My crank has to be cut .030 on both the mains and rods.
The machine shop said that this is no big deal.  All of my buddies
including myself feel that that is too far undersize for hard driving.  Any
thoughts/experiences?
_______

Funny you should mention this, as I had a rude surprise when my crank
grinder took my latest 455  crank to 0.030 under on the rod journals
without telling me.  Turns out you can get bearings from Federal Mogul that
are even 0.040 under.  If you think about it, Mondello turns the rod
journals down from 2.50" to 2.250" to run the Chevy rods on the stroker
motors, so turning the journals 0.030 under should be no big deal.  I
suspect that the situation is the same for the mains.  Unfortunately, with
this much of a cut you should have the crank re-nitrided.  I have not been
able to find a shop that could do this in the mid-Atlantic area, however.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 15:00:21 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Rearend question

Go to http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/oldsfaq.htm and select Differential Codes for
the location and meaning of the codes that are _usually_ stamped passenger side
front on the axle tube.  They will tell you what the original ratio was, not
necessarily what it is now.

If you spin the wheels remember that spinning the wheel 10 times and counting
the driveshaft turns is 10 times more accurate than doing it only once, E.G.
32.3 for 10 spins = 3.23 for 1 spin.

JonKrisInc@aol.com wrote:
> 
> How do I tell what gear ratios my car has? Is there a tag somewhere or would
> my VIN give me any clue. I'd like to make the car a little faster off the 
line
> without losing too much on the high end. It's a 350 4bbl.

- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 16:00:18 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@minspring.com>
Subject: Re: Feasibility of a site with list of Olds sellers and ratings.

Cliff,
This is an excellent idea ~if~ you have the time and know how to set it up.
It would be just as valuable a resource as the FAQ if done right and
everyone contributes.  If you wanted to get really fancy and make it even
more useful you can add in more than just private persons but add in
business that deal with Olds stuff also.  Stuff like plating shops,
restoration
parts houses, and the like.  Add in links to their web sites and
descriptions
of what services/parts they offer and you'd have a sort of Olds resto FAQ.
Something you could use to try to source those hard to find parts that
nobody has leads on.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/


>I would like to hear what the list thinks of me, or someone else, keeping a
>list of known "good" and known "bad" internet sellers of Oldsmobile stuff
on a
>web site.  I was thinking something like eBay where people could send in
>positive or negative recommendations for others.  E.g.:
>
> John Doe JDoe@aol.com (555)585-1234
> Excellent: 5
> Good: 2
> Poor: 0
> Warning: 0
>
> Stefan Defimone Kisskreak@prodigy.net 617-331-0655
> Excellent: 0
> Good: 0
> Poor: 0
> Warning: 1
> Known to use aliases and is wanted by police.
>
>There would need to be a legalish warning that it only represented other
>peoples opinions and that some people may be maliciously slandering other
>people or assisting bad sellers develop unwarranted credibility.
Arbitration
>would be nonexistent so if someone "slammed" you it would be up to you to
find
>and hurt them and make them retract it.  I'm not sure how confidentiality
would
>be handled.  E.g.. would someone who received a Poor be allowed to know who
>sent it in?  Ideas?
>
>Of course people would have to contribute Excellent, and Good
recommendations
>in addition to Poor and Warnings.  One of the ideas is to show volume of
>business too.  E.g.. a Poor from someone with 50 Excellent's and 100 Goods
is a
>lot less scary than a Poor from a guy only 1 person has dealt with.
>
>Is this something that the list would see as having value or not?  Would
you
>want your name on such a list?  Opinions, ideas, flames?
>--
>
>Cliff "asbestos shorts" Simpson
>mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
>'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
>http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 16:14:40 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@minspring.com>
Subject: Re: Priming and an idea(Was Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / 
Priming)

Del,
Sorry, but no royalties for you.  While not exactly a pump an oil 
accumilator accomplishes the same thing.  Basically it is a large
piston in a tube with air pressure on one side and plumbed in to
the main oil galleys on the other.  The oil side of the acc. has a 
open/shut valve on it.  Here's how it works.  When you start the
motor the oil pressure overcomes the air pressure (you can set
it to whatever you want) and forces the piston back.  As the 
piston is forced back the acc. fills with oil (anywhere from 1 qt to
?? depending on size of the piston/cylinder).  If the oil press in 
the motor drops below the what you have the air press set at,
say under heavy braking, high rpm, or hard cornering, the piston
forces the oil out of the acc. and back into the motor so you still
have oil press.  The trick is that before you shut the motor off 
you shut the valve on the acc. trapping the oil in it.  Next time you
start the motor you open the valve before you crank it and it will
pre-lube the motor.

This setup is common on certain types of race cars and I have
seen it available commercially but it's not necessarily cheap.  I 
installed one on a SCCA 240Z that had an electric valve so you 
could remote mount it.  A little ingenuity and you could wire it to 
the ignition with a time delay.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/


> Which brings me to this
>question. (And if anyone makes something like this, I wan part of the
>revenue!!!) Since the hardest thing on an engine is at startup, why
>haven't they made something where as soon as you turn the key on, an
>electric pump pumps oil to all the necessary places and then shuts off
>when your engine starts to run or it senses oil pressure? This could
>also serve as a backup in case your oil pump ever failed. Pressure
>drops, pump kicks in, light on dash comes on telling you pump is bad
>but still keeps oil pressure so you can get to somewhere to fix it. 
>
>Del
>==
>Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
>rockman20@yahoo.com
>1986 Honda Accord DX
>1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
>1981 John Deer Snowmobile
>197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
>1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
>_________________________________________________________
>DO YOU YAHOO!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 14:29:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Priming and an idea(Was Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / 
Priming)

- ---Mike Bloomer <mbloomer@minspring.com> wrote:
>
> Del,
> Sorry, but no royalties for you.  While not exactly a pump an oil 
> accumilator accomplishes the same thing.  Basically it is a large
> piston in a tube with air pressure on one side and plumbed in to
> the main oil galleys on the other.  The oil side of the acc. has a 
> open/shut valve on it.  Here's how it works.  When you start the
> motor the oil pressure overcomes the air pressure (you can set
> it to whatever you want) and forces the piston back.  As the 
> piston is forced back the acc. fills with oil (anywhere from 1 qt to
> ?? depending on size of the piston/cylinder).  If the oil press in 
> the motor drops below the what you have the air press set at,
> say under heavy braking, high rpm, or hard cornering, the piston
> forces the oil out of the acc. and back into the motor so you still
> have oil press.  The trick is that before you shut the motor off 
> you shut the valve on the acc. trapping the oil in it.  Next time you
> start the motor you open the valve before you crank it and it will
> pre-lube the motor.
> 
> This setup is common on certain types of race cars and I have
> seen it available commercially but it's not necessarily cheap.  I 
> installed one on a SCCA 240Z that had an electric valve so you 
> could remote mount it.  A little ingenuity and you could wire it to 
> the ignition with a time delay.
====================================
Damn! And here I wanted to make millions! *LOL*



==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 17:45:07 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Back in the Oldsmohouse again

Well, as threatened, I have returned.  Went to Chicago, liked the town,
didn't like the company and came back to Kentucky.  Interestingly on the
way back (on Jan 20) through southern Indiana (just north of Louisville
on I-65) I saw a car behind another car with the blue light specials
going.  About time I said to myself "Poor person just got nabbed by the
cops" when I noticed a 70-72 Supreme sitting quietly in front of of the
copmobile.  Just kind of surprised me to see one out and pulled over as
it has been a long time since the last time.  Hope it wasn't anyone on
the list.  Went to Lexington today to pick up some state tax forms and
saw a 72 (according to the taillights anyway) red convertible with a
white top and a bench seat sitting in the parking tower at National
City.  Glove box had a 442 chrome piece on it but the car said only
Cutlass on it.  AND, about January 13 or so I saw a really NICE Cutlass
in downtown Nashville, TN around 8 or 9 AM or so.  Didn't have much luck
in a few quick inquiries in Memphis about Cutlai in that neighborhood
though.  

So what has been going on around the list lately?  BTW if you send
anything to me direct, you might want to use my other address as I am
currently trying to straighten out my email electronic trashing system.
The other address is 

dstaxpro@netscape.net

As soon as the people at Infininet can figure out how all this goes
together I will be there primarily as it accords a level of privacy for
me (at least in theory) I do not have at this address.  I am not so sure
that I am all that excited about Netscape 4.5 though as I can't get it
to do what I want it to as easily as 3.0.  They tell me that it should
work better, but I don't s*bscribe to that idea yet.  

To my regret, I didn't get to take time to see any of the local sights
suggested by some of the list members (i.e. Chris Smetana, Andy Green,
Dave Wyatt, etal) or to even visit with list members, but I would like
to go back up that way again and be a tourist for a week or so.   I did
meet several other really nice people up that way though.  Town I
thought was really interesting was Libertyville, IL.  Seemed like part
of that town was lost in the 40's and 50's.  Kind of like yesterday
surround by today.  Well, enough rambling for now.  Feels good to be
back, because I sure missed y'all (nice Southern term).  

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky
dstaxpro@lex.infi.net
dstaxpro@netscape.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 17:47:26 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: used headers needed!/List size

I am looking for a set of decent, used, cheap headers for a 70 A body
with a small block. The Unit could sure use a pair after the whole carb,
cam, intake thing happens.

And, for there being 574 members on this list, I sure don't see too many
posts. I mean, sure there is a decent amount from day to day. But not
like it could be. I guess maybe most of us like the whole "low list
traffic" thing. But I just think it would be more interesting if we
heard from at least 300 different members a day.

Just my .02

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***********************
'70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
'73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
'75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 14:37:03 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Detailing

> Another opinion:  My crank has to be cut .030 on both the mains and
rods.
> The machine shop said that this is no big deal.  All of my buddies
> including myself feel that that is too far undersize for hard
driving.  Any
> thoughts/experiences?
===================================
My crank in my 350 is turned .030 on the rods and mains. I have had no
problem with them and I do run my 350 hard every now and again. Scared
me at first, but I feel better about it now.

Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 17:01:40 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@minspring.com>
Subject: Oldsmobiles arrived!

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Just read in the AutoWeek that I got today that Olds has bought
a TV spot during the superbowl "to show the world we have=20
arrived".  This is from the general manager Karen Francis.  They
made a joke about Olds being 101 yrs old and saturn should
get here in 2091.  Just hope they have something better in their
ad than that turd they showed off at the Detroit auto show......

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/


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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Just read in the AutoWeek that I got today =
that Olds=20
has bought</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>a TV spot during the superbowl &quot;to show the world we have =
</DIV>
<DIV>arrived&quot;.&nbsp; This is from the general manager Karen =
Francis.&nbsp;=20
They</DIV>
<DIV>made a joke about Olds being 101 yrs old and saturn should</DIV>
<DIV>get here in 2091.&nbsp; Just hope they have something better in =
their</DIV>
<DIV>ad than that turd they showed off at the Detroit auto =
show......</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Mike Bloomer<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:mbloomer@mindspring.com">mbloomer@mindspring.com</A><BR>IC=
Q#=20
19113713<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/">http://members.tripod.co=
m/CutlassFreak/</A><BR></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 18:03:44 EST
From: StepHydro@aol.com
Subject: Re: Priming and an idea(Was Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / 
Priming)

In a message dated 99-01-29 15:13:26 EST, you write:

>  (And if anyone makes something like this, I wan part of the
>  revenue!!!) Since the hardest thing on an engine is at startup, why
>  haven't they made something where as soon as you turn the key on, an
>  electric pump pumps oil to all the necessary places and then shuts off
>  when your engine starts to run or it senses oil pressure?

Prelube pumps have been a part of large industrial and marine engines for a
hundred years. Turbines even have postlube pumps to keep them wet while the
spin down and cool on the turning gear.

I have seen them on auto engines, homemade. Tap into the oil gallery and run
the line through a check valve, a 3-way solenoid valve and into a hydraulic
accumulator. The vent from the sol. valve goes back into the oil gallery. When
the car is running, the accumulator is charged with oil. When the engine is
shut down, the check valve holds the charge. Ready to start??? push the button
to vent the sol.valve momentarily. The oil rushes out and penetrates to the
teeniest corner of your engine. After a second or two, release the button,
start slopppy-wet engine. Purrs like a contented kitten.

If you live near a surplus store, all this junk can be bought for $50. New, it
will run amybe $400.

Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1741
*********************************

