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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1762


oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, February 9 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1762



Re: Inter State Emission testing?(long)
Re: Smokey & Bandit experts???
Re: worth upgrading cam in a 350?
Re: Inter State Emission testing?(long)
Re: Drag Racing expertise needed
Happy Day
Unsubscribe
Re: Web Page
Re: Drag Racing expertise needed
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1761
olds parts
Re: Drag Racing expertise needed
Re: Drag Racing expertise needed
Re: 425/455 block/pushrod difference
Re: Inter State Emission testing?(long)
1968 '98
Re: 403 Olds engine HELP!!
Re: Drag Racing expertise needed
Big Cars
car problem
Reading the computer codes....
1972 H/O dealership poster
Re: Big Cars
Re: Big Cars
More 403 Olds help!! Again! But getting closer!
Re: Smokey & Bandit experts???
RE: olds parts
UNBOUNCE: Body Tag Decode
UNBOUNCE: Need '68 98 Parts
Re: Olds only show and go
Re: 1970 442 parts car and parts for sale
Re: 1970 442 parts car and parts for sale
Re: Drag Racing expertise needed
Re: More 403 Olds help!! Again! But getting closer!
Re: worth upgrading cam in a 350?
Subject: source for hood hinges
Slightly used 307 cam.
Re: Big Cars
Re: Smokey & Bandit experts???
Re: worth upgrading cam in a 350?
Re: Slightly used 307 cam.
Re: Smokey & Bandit experts???
Re: 65 Speedometer Cluster Needed
list
ADMIN: Please Read re. List Services
Re: Slightly used 307 cam.
'84 Delta 88 for sale
Clutch
MSD (Autotronics) - Great Customer Service
Re: ADMIN: + cool NOS stuff I received

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 20:59:18 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Inter State Emission testing?(long)

> By then this will be Communist America and we will all
>get our monthly rashions from our govenment supporter and commute to our
>jobs via public transportation because it will be 'illegal' to even own a
>car much less put gas in it.
>Hopfully it won't happen in my lifetime.
>
>Omega Man
>(in a good mood today)


....And I thought I had a fatalist streak....Conjures up memories
of an old movie I saw a long time ago.  Seems to me the story
line was something like the above and had a kid and his dad.
Ole dad had a car stashed away in the rafters or something
and him and the kid drove cross country in it.  Think it was some
kind of open wheel race car.  Anybody remember this movie?
Think it came out in the 70's gas crunch era.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 21:58:52 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: Smokey & Bandit experts???

In a message dated 2/8/1999 8:17:22 PM Eastern Standard Time,
cshankle@home.com writes:

<< Darn it to Heck.  I wish I could remember which label was on the hood. 
 I've seen that movie a half million times.  Defineitely one of my
 favorites. >>


However, they switched scoops to keep the decal the same.  

Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 21:59:36 -0500
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: worth upgrading cam in a 350?

>i would suggest comp cams 280h. you could switch to an edelbrock >performer
rpm, but you might have to buy adjustable valvetran.


You'll need an adjustable valvetrain or different length pushrods for the
280H also. I'm running a 280H in my 350 and ended up going with the Magnum
Roller kit. Stock rockers and pushrods were way too loose.......real noisy.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 21:10:27 -0600 (CST)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Kevin D. Wood)
Subject: Re: Inter State Emission testing?(long)

Don't know about that movie, but Rush did a
cool song called 'Red Barchetta' which is pretty cool... Old car hidden
in a barn- nephew sneaks out and temps fate driving it -  should have
been an Olds though.

Bored,
Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 22:14:25 -0500
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Drag Racing expertise needed

>I am putting a stock 4bbl setup on it.
>The cam I am going to install has its powerband from 2K-6K RPM
>The car has a TH350 and will retain most of it's factory weight.
>What kind of stall and gear would be best for this car?


Matt,

Sounds like the same set-up I toyed around with this past summer.

'72 350 with Performer RPM intake, Comps 280H, Edelbrock 750 carb, 3000
stall, 3.73 posi. All the rest was stock except for 2 1/4" dual exhaust.
Best ET was 15.30 @ 90mph in the 1/4 mile.
It ran 16.22 when it was all stock with a 2V. I was a bit dissapointed with
the results after adding the mods. Got a 455 on the stand now.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 21:16:52 -0600 (CST)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Kevin D. Wood)
Subject: Happy Day

I just sent in my check for my first Oldsmobile
Club of America membership.  I am excited!
Also am purchasing a Dual Gate shifter set up
from C&M Classic Parts.

I will let everyone know how that goes, but judging by my conversation
with Jim, I am really looking forward to dealing with them again....
It's nice to talk to somebody who knows something about their products
for a change.

And NO, he didn't pay me to say that!

Have a nice evening Oldsheads.

Kevin D. Wood
OCA # ??????
Dr-Olds@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 21:34:59 -0000
From: "Tony & Jess Urwin" <tjboty@netins.net>
Subject: Unsubscribe

Could someone please help to unsubscribe.  I can't keep up with all the
info.  My pc isn't big enough.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 21:22:51 -0000
From: "Tony & Jess Urwin" <tjboty@netins.net>
Subject: Re: Web Page

How do i unsubscribe?
Please Help
- ----------
> From: R. Grant <kgrant442@home.com>
> To: olds list CA <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Web Page
> Date: Monday, February 08, 1999 12:53 AM
> 
> I have just finished updating my web page, I have added pics of my NOS
> Lightning Rod that I plan on installing in the spring as well as a
picture
> in the parts section of a mondello flywheel that I am selling. I am
looking
> for some nice pics of Cutlasses to add to my readers ride section.
> Thanks
> Kevin Grant
> 80 Cutlass Supreme
> http://members.home.net/kgrant442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 21:07:58 -0800
From: "Tim Wurtz" <tropical@micron.net>
Subject: Re: Drag Racing expertise needed

Matt, There are many more factors to take into account besides gear ratio
and stall.

1. What R.P.M. do you want to obtain through the traps?
2. Can the bottom end of your motor hold up?
3. Are your axles strong enough?
4. Your gear selection may require the use of Pro Series gear set, these are
a little softer material than street gears (Drag racing only)
5. What is the height of tires you will run?
6. Racing 1/4 mile or 1/8 mile?
7. Using a Trans brake or not?
8. What R.P.M. would you like to launch at? (this determines stall
selection)
9. Don't forget good U-Joints (no grease zert fittings)

If you use a 4:56 gear with a 30" tall tire shift a 5500 you will be fine.
Probably a wild guess you will cross the line at about 6200 to 6500.

I would select a 4000 stall converter for your stall. Keep in mind foot
braking with a small block you will be lucky to achieve about 3200 rpm at
the line with out trying to push the car. The reason for this is you are
using a small block motor, they just don't put much torque out to stall a
converter. Torque is required to stall a converter when you foot brake,
unless you use a trans brake.

Hope this helps. Tim Wurtz

By the way I have raced built and raced a few different cars for the strip,
and raced in many catagories as well. (Street, Pro Bracket, Super Pro, And
Super Comp) If you have any ????'s just ask.

first tip for you......Staging is the key.....O.K.    Meaning stage the car
the same way everytime and put it on a pin head everytime, makes for
consistent times. Good Luck



- -----Original Message-----
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
To: Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, February 08, 1999 3:07 PM
Subject: Drag Racing expertise needed


>I'm gonna be racing my '70 Cutlass S w/350 this summer and would like to
>get some opinions from you Draggin' guys:
>
>I am putting a stock 4bbl setup on it.
>The cam I am going to install has its powerband from 2K-6K RPM
>The car has a TH350 and will retain most of it's factory weight.
>What kind of stall and gear would be best for this car?
>
>I was thinking maybe a 3000 stall and 3.90 or 4.10 gear. But I'm sure
>those of you with more experience can set me strait.
>
>Thanks y'all!!!!!
>--
>***********
>Matt Cremean
>mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
>***********************
>'70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
>'73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
>'75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
>http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
>*******************************************
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 23:04:19 EST
From: Flymale@aol.com
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1761

I need Parts for a 66 olds 442 
Thanks Dennis

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 20:15:49 -0800 (PST)
From: terry moore <tc_moore@yahoo.com>
Subject: olds parts

Has any one heard of an after market frame tail kit for an olds salon
86.someone told me gm sold one but the dealer i asked had never heard
of it.I know it's kind of knew for after market but i figure it's
about time 
they start to make them.thanks in advance.


_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 23:35:25 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Drag Racing expertise needed

In a message dated 2/8/99 8:24:14 PM Pacific Standard Time,
RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net writes:

<< Sounds like the same set-up I toyed around with this past summer.
 
 '72 350 with Performer RPM intake, Comps 280H, Edelbrock 750 carb, 3000
 stall, 3.73 posi. All the rest was stock except for 2 1/4" dual exhaust.
 Best ET was 15.30 @ 90mph in the 1/4 mile.
 It ran 16.22 when it was all stock with a 2V. I was a bit dissapointed with
 the results after adding the mods. Got a 455 on the stand now.
 
 Randy >>

      Hey Randy, was that carb manual or vacuum secondaries? Just curious,
Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 23:43:09 EST
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Drag Racing expertise needed

In a message dated 99-02-08 23:24:35 EST, you write:

<< Matt,
 
 Sounds like the same set-up I toyed around with this past summer.
 
 '72 350 with Performer RPM intake, Comps 280H, Edelbrock 750 carb, 3000
 stall, 3.73 posi. All the rest was stock except for 2 1/4" dual exhaust.
 Best ET was 15.30 @ 90mph in the 1/4 mile.
 It ran 16.22 when it was all stock with a 2V. I was a bit dissapointed with
 the results after adding the mods. Got a 455 on the stand now.
  >>
You should have run a 4:10 rear end with 28 inch tall tires with a full 2 1/2
exhaust using Hooker Comp headers.  I would also use a ATI or Cone 3500 stall
converter.  Run total timing at 36 degrees with a set of NGK 5670-6 spark
plugs gapped at .050 and indexed.  It also depends on your compression ratio
that you run.  If you shave the heads .030 and use Victor Detroit Gaskets head
gaskets that when compressed give you .028 compared to Fel Pros .041
compressed.  Use a good Hei upgrade distrubutor or equal like the Mallory uni-
light or MSD ignition.

W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30 Race Rocket
12.149's @ 111mph
There is no joy like a big block Olds toy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 21:47:41 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: 425/455 block/pushrod difference

There was a thread about this a while ago.  I believe it was about
whether the pushrods should be longer or shorter on the 39 degree
motor.  It all boiled down to the fact that the crank is in the
intersection of the two banks but the cam is above that.  Therefore the
39 degree pushrods should be shorter than the 45 if my mental experiment
is correct.

David Brode wrote:
> 
> Hello all,
>  A fellow list member and I were comparing some pushrods yesterday and
> found that ones from a 455 were of a different length than those from a 39
> degree/.842 425 [block #...244]. This puzzled me, as I thought they should
> be the same.
> 
>  I wonder if anyone has measured these blocks from the crank C/L to the
> deck? I ask because if you do the math on the C.H., stroke and rod length,
> it tells me the blocks may be of a different height.
> 
>  455;
> [C.H.=1.74"] + [rod length=6.735"] + [strokeX.5 = 2.125"] = 10.6
> 
> 425;
> [C.H.=1.615"] + [rod length=7"] + [strokeX.5 = 1.9875"] = 10.6625
> 
>  I didn't measure the difference in the pushrods, but it was around 
.040"-.060".
> 
> Dave Brode
> 64 Cutlass
> .

- -- 
Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 21:52:20 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Inter State Emission testing?(long)

Mike Bloomer wrote:
> 
> ....And I thought I had a fatalist streak....Conjures up memories
> of an old movie I saw a long time ago.  Seems to me the story
> line was something like the above and had a kid and his dad.
> Ole dad had a car stashed away in the rafters or something
> and him and the kid drove cross country in it.  Think it was some
> kind of open wheel race car.  Anybody remember this movie?
> Think it came out in the 70's gas crunch era.

Sorry, don't remember that movie but I do remember a Buck Rodgers in the
23rd Century episode where he is driveing an old Harley and he stops. 
He pulls out a pack of little "pills" and drops one in the tanks and you
hear lots of hissing and fog comes out.  He smiles and says "OPEC eat
your heart out".

Maybe there is still hope.

- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 13:12:45 -0600
From: Tom Gannon <kathygannon@sprintmail.com>
Subject: 1968 '98

Thanks for responding in the past . Now I need a Hi-Low  Beam Relay and
an electric window "arm" to raise and lower the driver's window. (It's a
two door.) Thank you.  Lindsay Gannon in Des Moines 
kathygannon@Sprintmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 05:19:14 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: 403 Olds engine HELP!!

>Anyway, the passenger side motor mount was bent, and the bolt broken. There
>is a girdle that's bolted to the block, just above the oil pan. The engine
>mount attaches to that with two bolts. Now, the girdle is held to the block
>with three bolts. If I undo those bolts, will something drastic happen
>inside the engine? Like, do these bolts hold a windage tray, main caps, or
>anything else? It looks like I can undo the girdle, and just replace the
>motor mount bolt.

Nothing bad will happen; that's just the motor mount adapter that the T/A
403's used (one of them came along with my '79 403 out of a T/A). On other
cars, the motor-mounts used either the middle and front hole, or the middle
and the rear hole (or no hole, for the Toro motors), but they don't hold
anything else on. The 9/16" headed bolts on the side there are actually the
block coolant drain plugs.

>Also, I noticed some oil very slightly flowing out of two exhaust ports...is
>this normal? I figure it's just oil flowback from the top of the cylinder
>heads down the open exhaust valves...but that doesn't seem right.

No, it's not right, because there is supposed to be an oil seal around the
valve stem that keeps the oil in the top of the cylinder head. That oil will
leak whether the valves are open or closed, and is likely compounded by
clogged drainback holes in either end of the heads. 

Now would be the *best* time to replace those seals, using either the
compressed-air or compressed-nylon rope method to keep the valves in place
when you remove the springs to replace those seals. The seals themselves are
very cheap, and will keep you from looking like you're fogging for mosquitos.
_______________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry   MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
http://studentweb.providence.edu/~rbarry/wheels

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 22:33:04 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Drag Racing expertise needed

1 Question.  What kind of traction do you guys get with 350s.

What should I run in a '81 Delta with 455, bottom end cam (idle-4200),
Edelbrock Performer Intake, 3.23 posi, dual 2.5" exhaust with Super Turbo
mufflers and boxed-in control arms.  I have zero traction now (15x8s with
255/60/15 TA tires) and the car hits 60 mph mark in about 6 seconds or so. I
have a 600 above stock converter and Hurst stage 2 shift kit in the TH400.
If I try to foot-brake the car, even if I leg-press the brake pedal, the
tires go up in smoke at above 2200 RPM and the tach shoots to 4000 RPM and
beyond until I shift or it shifts (depends if in D or 1).  By the way, a few
times after one does these foot-breaks, the rear breaks are shot.  Mine are
so toast it is funny.  I did a few break-stands until the white smoke was
well within the fenders.  I have to change the rear breaks before I can move
the car again. Thanks.


>1. What R.P.M. do you want to obtain through the traps?
>2. Can the bottom end of your motor hold up?
>3. Are your axles strong enough?
>4. Your gear selection may require the use of Pro Series gear set, these
are
>a little softer material than street gears (Drag racing only)
>5. What is the height of tires you will run?
>6. Racing 1/4 mile or 1/8 mile?
>7. Using a Trans brake or not?
>8. What R.P.M. would you like to launch at? (this determines stall
>selection)
>9. Don't forget good U-Joints (no grease zert fittings)
>
>If you use a 4:56 gear with a 30" tall tire shift a 5500 you will be fine.
>Probably a wild guess you will cross the line at about 6200 to 6500.
>
>I would select a 4000 stall converter for your stall. Keep in mind foot
>braking with a small block you will be lucky to achieve about 3200 rpm at
>the line with out trying to push the car. The reason for this is you are
>using a small block motor, they just don't put much torque out to stall a
>converter. Torque is required to stall a converter when you foot brake,
>unless you use a trans brake.
>
>Hope this helps. Tim Wurtz
>
>By the way I have raced built and raced a few different cars for the strip,
>and raced in many catagories as well. (Street, Pro Bracket, Super Pro, And
>Super Comp) If you have any ????'s just ask.
>
>first tip for you......Staging is the key.....O.K.    Meaning stage the car
>the same way everytime and put it on a pin head everytime, makes for
>consistent times. Good Luck
>
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
>To: Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Date: Monday, February 08, 1999 3:07 PM
>Subject: Drag Racing expertise needed
>
>
>>I'm gonna be racing my '70 Cutlass S w/350 this summer and would like to
>>get some opinions from you Draggin' guys:
>>
>>I am putting a stock 4bbl setup on it.
>>The cam I am going to install has its powerband from 2K-6K RPM
>>The car has a TH350 and will retain most of it's factory weight.
>>What kind of stall and gear would be best for this car?
>>
>>I was thinking maybe a 3000 stall and 3.90 or 4.10 gear. But I'm sure
>>those of you with more experience can set me strait.
>>
>>Thanks y'all!!!!!
>>--
>>***********
>>Matt Cremean
>>mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
>>***********************
>>'70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
>>'73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
>>'75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
>>http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
>>*******************************************
>>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 23:39:58 -0600
From: Mark <greenmm@earthlink.net>
Subject: Big Cars

What was the biggest car produced?  

  My 1975 Delta 88 is 226.9 inches long with a 124 in. wheelbase.

The '75 98 was 232.4 in. long with 127 in. wheelbase.

Anybody got some stats for me?

Mark MacDonald
1975 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale Convertible
<http://home.earthlink.net/~greenmm>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 00:43:29 EST
From: Whataphok@aol.com
Subject: car problem

 i have a 90 olds delta 88, engine is 3.8 fwd...on the run, while doing 20, 30
or 40 miles, it will shut off, and i have to put it in neutral and started
again...what's the problem? car doesn't shut off during idle...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 22:08:07 -0800
From: "M. Lias" <mlias@thegrid.net>
Subject: Reading the computer codes....

> THIS MESSAGE IS IN MIME FORMAT. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

- --MS_Mac_OE_3001356488_1877424_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit



Speaking of computer codes, I lost my little computer scanner/reader.  I think
someone posted another way of reading the codes with some wires or paperclips 
or
something like that. Does anyone recall that message? If so, can they tell me
how to do it? Thanks in advance.
- --MS_Mac_OE_3001356488_1877424_MIME_Part
Content-type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<HTML>
<HEAD>
<TITLE>Reading the computer codes....</TITLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY BGCOLOR=3D"#FFFFFF">
<BR>
<BR>
<FONT SIZE=3D"2">Speaking of computer codes, I lost my little computer scanne=
r/reader. &nbsp;I think someone posted another way of reading the codes with=
 some wires or paperclips or something like that. Does anyone recall that me=
ssage? If so, can they tell me how to do it? Thanks in advance.</FONT>
</BODY>
</HTML>

- --MS_Mac_OE_3001356488_1877424_MIME_Part--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 01:16:47 EST
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: 1972 H/O dealership poster

Hello folks, I have started a Oldsmobile oldsmobilla web page.  The very first
item on the page is the 3 foot by 5 foot dealership poster.  If you would like
to take a look at it, go to http://members.aol.com/WMACHINES/Hurstolds.html
The page is under construction, but I figured what the heck with the help of
Denny (w451973@aol.com) I post the pic of the poster that he has in his
possession.  This is not the Muscle Car Review poster.

As for know this poster is not forsale but may be in the future.

Thanks
WMACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30 race rocket

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 23:47:59 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Big Cars

>What was the biggest car produced?
>
>  My 1975 Delta 88 is 226.9 inches long with a 124 in. wheelbase.
>
>The '75 98 was 232.4 in. long with 127 in. wheelbase.
>
>Anybody got some stats for me?


I don't know, BUT, my '81 98 is one of the biggest cars you see on the road
now a days.  I remember a few months ago when I pulled my second 455 out of
a '72 98 that it made my 98 look like a Honda.  Those were the days.  If you
needed your house demolished, you called a buddy with an Oldsmobile.  Ha Ha.

1981 Delta 88 4dr (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 98 Regency (307/th200-4R/propane)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 23:05:44 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Big Cars

My Olds book with the specs is at work - I'm curious who weighs in the
heaviest.  I thought my 66 Toro & 67 D-88 were pretty close, but I think my
Delta outweighs the Toro.

I'll look it up and drop the info tomorrow.

Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible,  '72
Vista Cruiser, '80 GMC 1/2 Ton

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 01:22:25 -0600
From: "Norm Muelleman" <norm806@dialnet.net>
Subject: More 403 Olds help!! Again! But getting closer!

Robert Barry...and others...

I said:
>>Also, I noticed some oil very slightly flowing out of two exhaust
ports...is
>>this normal? I figure it's just oil flowback from the top of the cylinder
>>heads down the open exhaust valves...but that doesn't seem right.

Robert Barry replied:
>No, it's not right, because there is supposed to be an oil seal around the
>valve stem that keeps the oil in the top of the cylinder head. That oil
will
>leak whether the valves are open or closed, and is likely compounded by
>clogged drainback holes in either end of the heads.

Ok...I've got the engine pulled. I've pulled everything off. I pulled the
valve covers and manifold, which I've repainted. I did notice something
strange...chunks of black material blocking the oil drainback hole at the
rear end of the cylinder head. I was thinking..with no where to go, the oil
must be seeping through the valves into the cylinders..hence the extremely
oily exhaust headers, underside of car, etc. The material looked
plastic-like...is this carbon? It looked circular. One piece was 1/4
circular, and appeared to have a smaller hole in the middle..who knows?
Anyway, both oil drains were blocked. Using a small screwdriver, I removed
the blockages....

Robert Barry said:
>Now would be the *best* time to replace those seals, using either the
>compressed-air or compressed-nylon rope method to keep the valves in place
>when you remove the springs to replace those seals. The seals themselves
are
>very cheap, and will keep you from looking like you're fogging for
mosquitos.

Well, I'd like to replace the head gaskets as well...so, I'm just going to
pull the cylinder heads off. Which brings up my next question.. do I loosen
the rocker arm nuts first, then undo the cylinder heads? And what is the
torque sequence and torque values for the heads? Also, being a Poncho
man...what are the metal pieces between the rocker arms? Are these factory
girdles?
Also, since the heads will be off, how do I replace the oil seals on the
valves...never messed with valves before...

Norm (What is the airspeed velocity of an unladen swallow?) Muelleman
ICQ: 3156478
norm806@dialnet.net

View my webpage at: http://members.dialnet.net/norm806
Updated 1-28-99

- -----Original Message-----
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, February 08, 1999 11:22 PM
Subject: Re: 403 Olds engine HELP!!


>>Anyway, the passenger side motor mount was bent, and the bolt broken.
There
>>is a girdle that's bolted to the block, just above the oil pan. The engine
>>mount attaches to that with two bolts. Now, the girdle is held to the
block
>>with three bolts. If I undo those bolts, will something drastic happen
>>inside the engine? Like, do these bolts hold a windage tray, main caps, or
>>anything else? It looks like I can undo the girdle, and just replace the
>>motor mount bolt.
>
>Nothing bad will happen; that's just the motor mount adapter that the T/A
>403's used (one of them came along with my '79 403 out of a T/A). On other
>cars, the motor-mounts used either the middle and front hole, or the middle
>and the rear hole (or no hole, for the Toro motors), but they don't hold
>anything else on. The 9/16" headed bolts on the side there are actually the
>block coolant drain plugs.
>
>
>_______________________________________________
>Dr. Robert Barry   MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
>http://studentweb.providence.edu/~rbarry/wheels
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 01:39:19 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Smokey & Bandit experts???

Peter Landowski wrote:
> 
> I seen the movie last night and I must admit that Pontiac is sure a nice
> car. 

Yeah, me too, and I have to say that ~is~ one clean F-body.  Wish Olds coulda
done one :(

> if in
> fact that was the motor in the car making the noise

Yeah, I'd wonderred that....  Alot of the shots didn't really ~sound~ like Olds
~or~ Pontiac...  Not really sure.


Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 04:10:29 -0500
From: "Gary Couse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: olds parts

I couldn't find a frame tail kit when we re-did Quincy's. We borrowed a set
of tails from a Reg*l I believe, for the repair.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of terry moore
> Sent: Monday, February 08, 1999 11:16 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: olds parts
>
>
>
> Has any one heard of an after market frame tail kit for an olds salon
> 86.someone told me gm sold one but the dealer i asked had never heard
> of it.I know it's kind of knew for after market but i figure it's
> about time
> they start to make them.thanks in advance.
>
>
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 06:53:58 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Body Tag Decode

Can't use the "H*LP" word; forwarding.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	GHeath4138@aol.com
Subject: H*lp

I got a question for everyone. I am trying to find out what Body Paint code
is. On the body tag it has a -   - instead  of letters and numbers. Can anyone
h*lp?

Grover

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 06:55:40 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Need '68 98 Parts

Not on the list; respond to kathygannon@sprintmail.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Tom Gannon <kathygannon@sprintmail.com>
Subject: 1968 '98

Thanks for responding in the past . Now I need a Hi-Low  Beam Relay and
an electric window "arm" to raise and lower the driver's window. (It's a
two door.) Thank you.  Lindsay Gannon in Des Moines 
kathygannon@Sprintmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 06:05:36 EST
From: OLDS44272@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds only show and go

In a message dated 2/8/99 8:07:31 PM Eastern Standard Time,
costanzo@netcarrier.com writes:

<< Is this the Dick Miller thing you mean?  Or the Mondello show if it exists
 this year.
 I'll be going to one of them for sure. >>



        I think this is the Dick Miller show. I see an earlier post that is
was on August 14th? at Norwalk Ohio.......Scott

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 07:18:01 EST
From: GraphixRUs@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1970 442 parts car and parts for sale

Chris,
I am going to try to come down to Fayetteville near the end of this month. You
tell   me  what day would  be convenient for you. I am sure the  club wants th
radiator core support .is the battery  box in pretty  good shape? 
We need a split front BENCH seat  ( black ) & rear seat . The car was a 70
"S" 2 dr, H.T.  
Let me know about the day to come down.
Roger

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 07:18:41 EST
From: GraphixRUs@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1970 442 parts car and parts for sale

Sorry list. 
Should have been private.
Roger

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 07:42:32 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Re: Drag Racing expertise needed

2500 stall might be a little better, assuming you will still drive it on the
street some.  Your gear selection is on the money for a dual purpose car.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 06:46:59 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: More 403 Olds help!! Again! But getting closer!

>Ok...I've got the engine pulled. I've pulled everything off. I pulled the
>valve covers and manifold, which I've repainted. I did notice something
>strange...chunks of black material blocking the oil drainback hole at the
>rear end of the cylinder head. I was thinking..with no where to go, the oil
>must be seeping through the valves into the cylinders..hence the extremely
>oily exhaust headers, underside of car, etc. The material looked
>plastic-like...is this carbon? It looked circular. One piece was 1/4
>circular, and appeared to have a smaller hole in the middle..who knows?
>Anyway, both oil drains were blocked. Using a small screwdriver, I removed
>the blockages....

Sounds like somewhere along the line someone wasn't very faithful
in changing the oil.  Personally, I would go ahead and pull the oil
pan just to be on the safe side.  Likely to be filled with chunks of
nylon from the original timing chain, or at least some more of this
junk you found in the heads.  When you pull it out, make sure you
clean out the pickup on the oil pump real good too.

>
>Robert Barry said:
>>Now would be the *best* time to replace those seals, using either the
>>compressed-air or compressed-nylon rope method to keep the valves in place
>>when you remove the springs to replace those seals. The seals themselves
>are
>>very cheap, and will keep you from looking like you're fogging for
>mosquitos.
>
>Well, I'd like to replace the head gaskets as well...so, I'm just going to
>pull the cylinder heads off. Which brings up my next question.. do I loosen
>the rocker arm nuts first, then undo the cylinder heads? And what is the
>torque sequence and torque values for the heads? Also, being a Poncho
>man...what are the metal pieces between the rocker arms? Are these factory
>girdles?
>Also, since the heads will be off, how do I replace the oil seals on the
>valves...never messed with valves before...
>


You can take the heads off either way, though unless you have a
valve spring compressor, or access to one (looks like a big C clamp
with a fork end to go over the valve spring retainer) I would suggest
changing the valve seals while the heads are still on the block.  The
two methods Robert mentioned involve using the prybar looking
valve spring compressor and either using a spark plug hole adapter
to use compressed air or feeding the end of a nylon rope in through
the spark plug hole and rotating the motor up to TDC to keep the
valves from opening as you compress the springs.  Use a rubber
mallet to tap on the retainers to unseat the retainers from the locks,
they have a tapered seat and tend to freeze in place like ball joints.
The pivots for the Olds rockers are one piece for each cyl and thats
why you see that strap between rockers.  One bad thing is that their
non adjustable, so just keep everything in order where it came from
and it should be fine.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 08:01:14 -0600
From: "Greg" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: worth upgrading cam in a 350?

If you guys missed it in my original post, I already have adjustable roller
rockers.  How is the 280H?  Idle?  Vacuum pulled?  what gear/torque
converter are you running? etc.

- -greg z

- -----Original Message-----
From: RANDY A GEISEL <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, February 08, 1999 9:17 PM
Subject: Re: worth upgrading cam in a 350?


>>i would suggest comp cams 280h. you could switch to an edelbrock
>performer
>rpm, but you might have to buy adjustable valvetran.
>
>
>You'll need an adjustable valvetrain or different length pushrods for the
>280H also. I'm running a 280H in my 350 and ended up going with the Magnum
>Roller kit. Stock rockers and pushrods were way too loose.......real noisy.
>
>Randy
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 09:14:07 -0500
From: "Shokouhi, Mike" <ShokouhM@nasd.com>
Subject: Subject: source for hood hinges

oops - i meant "hood hinge SPRINGS"

> From: Shokouhi, Mike <ShokouhM@nasd.com>
> To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject: source for hood hinges
> Date: Monday, February 08, 1999 4:09 PM
> 
> Does anyone know of a vendor that sells hood hinges for a '69 442-H/O?
> Supercars and Fusick don't list them, and I've heard mix reviews for the
> ones that Year One sells.
> 
> Thanks for any help.
> 
> Mike Shokouhi
> '69 H/O
> '69 C*rvette-Conv.
> '66 GTO-Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 09:47:12 -0500
From: "Gary Couse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Slightly used 307 cam.

	Anyone have a suggestion for the largest, (or second largest as a 
little
safety zone), cam & lifters either standard or roller to put in a stock but
good '86 - 307 "Y" engine. I would like a little lump in the idle if
possible. I don't want to have to change the upper valve train from stock.
I'm looking privately for a new, (or slightly used), cam & lifters for this
engine. I know this engine's crank, rods, pistons & rings are still good and
will not disturb them. I intended to change the stock timing chain and
thought, "might as well" on a cam change. Not looking to spend big $$ on
this engine as I'm not sure what it will be going in if at all. I will pull
the heads to de-carbonize and open up the exhaust ports. The engine will
retain the A.I.R. tubes/system. So, any thoughts or cam/lifters specs or
offers?

	Lately, I've seen a few used cam & lifter packages in the neiborhood of
$50-$60. That sounds about right for my needs. Yeah, I know it's not the
best to put anything used of a cam nature in the block. I'm not majorly
concerned as this, as is a backup engine. I thought if I can get a set with
relatively short run time... Well, that will become "The rest of the story".

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

Project Forum Delphi Site:
http://www.delphi.com/cc_iroc_ss

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 08:48:33 -0600
From: GTH <lkxiii@lords.com>
Subject: Re: Big Cars

Production auto??
My vote:
1959-1968 Cadillac Fleetwood 75
149.5 (and who says nobody notices a half inch!) wheelbase and 244.5"
overall length for the 66-68 models (I'd bet the 59-65's are longer).
When you park one of these the back seat has another zip code

George Hester
Jackson MS

Mark wrote:
> 
> What was the biggest car produced?
> 
>   My 1975 Delta 88 is 226.9 inches long with a 124 in. wheelbase.
> 
> The '75 98 was 232.4 in. long with 127 in. wheelbase.
> 
> Anybody got some stats for me?
> 
> Mark MacDonald
> 1975 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale Convertible
> <http://home.earthlink.net/~greenmm>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 09:18:02 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Smokey & Bandit experts???

Sorry the T/A in Smokey and the Bandit had a built 400 pontiac in it.



<
>Anyone out there have these shows memorized?  (Or otherwise T/A experts 
- --wait,
>I should maybe rephrase ~that~!)  Is it ever verified what engine he's 
allegedly
>running in that car?  I'm sure a stock 403 would be shot to hell in the
>beginning of the show, but it's not like it's all that accurate (Dukes 
of
>Hazzard-style scenes... yeah right!)  but it ~would~ be nice to be able 
to say
>"Yep, that's an Olds doing that!"   :)
>
>Anyone know?
>
>-- 
>
>Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
>mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
>http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
>http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
>     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
>http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
>http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 10:51:21 -0500
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: worth upgrading cam in a 350?

>If you guys missed it in my original post, I already have adjustable
>roller rockers.  How is the 280H?  Idle?  Vacuum pulled?  what >gear/torque
converter are you running? etc.


I'm running 3.73's with a 3000 stall converter. I have the idle set at about
900 rpm, other wise it stalls at intersections. Idles with a nice
rumble.......not real rough. I added a vacuum reserve for the power
brakes.......helped a bit. Running 255/60R15 on the rear and it tachs at
about 3100 cruising at 70mph. Still haven't fixed speedo so it's off about
30 %.  Ran 2 hours to the mountains a few months back and spun a
bearing.............knew I should have freshened the bottom end (132,000
mi).

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 10:15:58 -0600
From: "Norm Muelleman" <norm806@dialnet.net>
Subject: Re: Slightly used 307 cam.

Hey..about the used cam/lifter..
I don't know if you have an O'Reilly auto parts store near you...I'm sure
it's similar..
I was pricing a new cam for my 403 last night. Wasn't an Edelbrock or
Crane..think just Mondello or some generic cam..had some good numbers...the
cam was priced at $66.00, and the lifters were $32.00..slightly less as a
package. So, for around $80.00, you could have a new cam/lifter...
Just my nickels worth (pennies are useless anymore)

Norm (It's getting closer..the car will soon run!) Muelleman
ICQ: 3156478
norm806@dialnet.net

View my webpage at: http://members.dialnet.net/norm806
Updated 2-9-99  Now with Sound!!!


- -----Original Message-----
From: Gary Couse <gjcouse@francomm.com>
To: Oldsmobile@Chebucto. Ns. Ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; G-Body List
<olds_gbody@listbot.com>
Cc: Jose R Elias <Jose.Elias2@PSS.Boeing.com>
Date: Tuesday, February 09, 1999 8:48 AM
Subject: Slightly used 307 cam.


> Anyone have a suggestion for the largest, (or second largest as a little
>safety zone), cam & lifters either standard or roller to put in a stock but
>good '86 - 307 "Y" engine. I would like a little lump in the idle if
>possible. I don't want to have to change the upper valve train from stock.
>I'm looking privately for a new, (or slightly used), cam & lifters for this
>engine. I know this engine's crank, rods, pistons & rings are still good
and
>will not disturb them. I intended to change the stock timing chain and
>thought, "might as well" on a cam change. Not looking to spend big $$ on
>this engine as I'm not sure what it will be going in if at all. I will pull
>the heads to de-carbonize and open up the exhaust ports. The engine will
>retain the A.I.R. tubes/system. So, any thoughts or cam/lifters specs or
>offers?
>
> Lately, I've seen a few used cam & lifter packages in the neiborhood of
>$50-$60. That sounds about right for my needs. Yeah, I know it's not the
>best to put anything used of a cam nature in the block. I'm not majorly
>concerned as this, as is a backup engine. I thought if I can get a set with
>relatively short run time... Well, that will become "The rest of the
story".
>
>-----Regards,
>
>Gary J. Couse
>Couse Custom's
>
>ICQ# 5209322
>gjcouse@francomm.com
>gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com
>
>Custom Conversion Prototype:
>CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
>http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
>
>Project Forum Delphi Site:
>http://www.delphi.com/cc_iroc_ss
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 09:23:57 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Smokey & Bandit experts???

I would like to see this article because I have alway read built 400 
poncho engines!!!!!!



>
><< I don't think they ever showed the engine..but it was '78 so I 
always
> assumed it was a 403. >>
>One of the car mags had a wirte up on this a couple yrs ago. THey 
actually
>used something like 7 different cars in the movie. I thik two of them 
were
>powered by Ponchos, and there was even one with a 455 Olds in it. The 
rest
>weere 403's. I'll have to dig through the stacks and see if I can't 
find that
>article again.
>S.


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 09:27:13 -0800
From: Terry Warford <twarford@centaur-corp.com>
Subject: Re: 65 Speedometer Cluster Needed

Anyone have a Speedometer cluster for a '65 Cutlass conv., I've replaced
the cable to no avail and need to go to the next step.

At 09:02 PM 7/27/98 -0700, Greg Rollin wrote:
>
>
>
>> Voltage leaks.  Common in High Energy ignition systems.  As long as it
>> looks like a faint "glow" around the boot end and not an ARC, you
>> shouldn't see any performance problems on the street.
>>
>> Mike Rothe
>
>---
>This is called the "Corona Effect" (not to be confused with the
consumption of
>too many Corona beers).  Under certain atmospheric conditions (i.e.: high
>humidity and low barometric pressures) the plug wires will appear to "glow".
>What is happening is the air around the plug wires is being ionized.  This is
>actually the same way neon signs work.  The gas in the tube ionizes and
lights up
>in the presence of high voltage.
>And if I remember correctly, this is also what causes the "Northern Lights"
>(aurora borealis) phenomenon.
>The Corona Effect is basically a breakdown of the air around the plug
wires. Not
>the wires themselves.  It makes no difference of how thick the insulators
are,
>who makes the wires, etc.
>
>The other Corona Effect is in a continual state of research.  More studies
are
>required.
>
>Greg Rollin
>Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 503-244-8249
>http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
>E-mail: supercars@transport.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 11:49:07 +0300
From: john schiffman <joschiff@flash.net>
Subject: list

subscribe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 18:49:17 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: ADMIN: Please Read re. List Services

While majordomo is mostly automated, there are a number of things that it
requires my intervention to handle. These are things like handling bounced
posts (due to non-membership on the list, posts containing words related
to list admin, etc), the ever-present "s*bscribe me", "rem*ve me", etc.,
posts sent to either the list or elsewhere, and various other things. It
is fairly intensive at times.

Lately it seems this issue has gotten much, much worse. I have been
inundated with bounces from non-members, and far too many requests for
being added or removed by messages sent to the list and not majordomo --
that is, by persons not following the simple guidelines they received when
they signed on.

This is a problem. My real job is very busy and I simply do not have the
time it takes to babysit all of these sorts of bounced posts. So, as of
today, I am implementing a policy of:

1. Non-member posts will generally not be "Unbounced" to the list by me,
unless they are in need of something that makes us probably a last-resort
option. This will end up having to be a judgement call by me. 

2. Posts submitted by members that bounce because they are posting from a
different mail address than the one under which they are s*bscribed will
not be forwarded to the list.

3. Requests sent to the list for addition to or removal from the list will
be processed only when time permits me to do so. I will try to handle
these as quickly as possible but members should follow the simple commands
given in their welcome message to manage their subscription if the request
is urgent.

4. I will try to forward posts bounced due to use of the words majordomo
considers needing admin attention (words such as h*lp, s*bscribe,
uns*bscribe, fr*e, rem*ve me, a*d me) as time permits.

I also want to remind members to please keep topics Olds-related, keep
language in posts to that used in polite company, and take as much as
possible to private email.

I'm sorry for any inconvenience this may cause but the admin volume of the
list has greatly increased to the point where this has become necessary.
As always, please mail me direct at ab348@chebucto.ns.ca if you have any
questions or concerns. 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 13:34:14 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Slightly used 307 cam.

In a message dated 2/9/99 12:35:48 PM Eastern Standard Time,
norm806@dialnet.net writes:

<< I was pricing a new cam for my 403 last night. Wasn't an Edelbrock or
 Crane..think just Mondello or some generic cam..had some good numbers...the
 cam was priced at $66.00, and the lifters were $32.00..slightly less as a
 package. So, for around $80.00, you could have a new cam/lifter...
 Just my nickels worth (pennies are useless anymore)
  >>
i found a "Melling" camshaft for my olds 350 a while back for a good price.
it was the EXACT same grind and #s as that of a performer 350.  cheaper, too!
jeremy
BIGJERMES@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 19:04:06 -0500
From: "person" <vbdeveloper@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: '84 Delta 88 for sale

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0048_01BE545E.F71EC340
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="utf-7"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

My friends mother is selling her MINT '84 88. Family owned, garaged, 90k =
mi., pw, pdl etc.,=20
blue/blue 4dr.  New tires, radiator, brakes. She wants to sell it fast.=20

Any idea on what it's worth?=20

Anybody interested? Car is in Florida, but maybe could be delivered. =
Like I said it's not my car........=20

=20
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+-                                                                       =
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- -+-+-+-+-+-+-+-
VBDeveloper+AEA-worldnet.att.net

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Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 19:46:51 EST
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Clutch

	I would like to put a new clutch in my '70 W-31 this spring. Could 
someone
tell me the size that I would need for street use. Back in 1970 I purchased a
zoom clutch and pressure plate for my '69 GTO. It was a good clutch with a lot
of pedal pressure. Is Zoom still around? Think they would make a clutch for a
W-31? Any suggestions on a good manufacturer and an approx. cost would be
appreciated.
Thanks, 
Jim McKeague
70 Rallye 350
70 Cutlass S W-31
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html">Dr.Olds350's Page</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 21:13:25 -0500
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: MSD (Autotronics) - Great Customer Service

Hi All,

Just had to tell everyone about this. Last August I destroyed my MSD 6A by
arcing the Positive side of the coil to ground. Don't ask....it was
stupidity. I was in a hurry..........and as the Amish around here say "Haste
makes waste".........well, I proved that saying.

Anyway........I finally sent the box back for repair 3 weeks ago. Warranty
expires on 2/15/99. I sent them a note stating what I did and that it was my
fault, just send the box back C.O.D. when it was repaired. Timing actually
retarded instead of advanced the higher the rpm's went. I was told that I
blew out the output transistor. I replace transistors all the time, so I
figured it was an easy fix.

Well, guess what I had waiting for me today when I got home? Autotronic
Controls Corp. (MSD) sent me a brand spankin' new box......free!

With the thread going around about a list for feedback concerning private
party or vendor parts buying,  I just had to tell you all about this
experience. MSD has my recommendation! (Sounds like I'm on E-Bay again) ;)

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 19:16:12 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: ADMIN: + cool NOS stuff I received

> I'm sorry for any inconvenience this may cause but the admin volume of the
> list has greatly increased to the point where this has become necessary.

I can see the need now for a "B" body list.... hahhaa.  Greg, I bet you
never knew how popular Oldsmobiles have become.  To one man, I feel that
it's a wonderful thing to have TOO much Oldsmotalk.  I agree, we need to
all keep it simple.

Now for some Olds PARTS content.
I recently purchased a big box of NOS goodies from a dealership that
went outta business.  I had a list to go by, and that was it.  Wasn't
sure what they fit, etc.

Here's the nifty part.  For A-bodies, I got a new blower motor, kickup
solenoid for the carb with A/C, 69-72 2dr HT roof rail w/s, and door w/s
for both sides, Big D front shocks, (they're red) and I have no idea
what the big D signifies.  the back of the box says they're rated for
59% more load capacity than 1" shocks.  Any ideas folks? A couple of
early ported vacuum switches for the front of the manifold.  A couple of
vacuum advance cans, one for points and one for HEI I think.  

For the G-body, I got a power antenna mast assembly and wire harness and
other goodies for it.  It seems I'll have to BUILD this thing.  Also, a
blower speed selector switch.

I got a HUGE pair of rear shocks for I THINK a GMC/Chevy pickup too. 
Called "Pleasurizers".  I don't know what they intended for those shocks
with a name like that, heh heh, but they're gold in color and are
completely sealed in shrink wrap.  And no, I don't think they require
batteries!

I got an assundry of other little small stuff too.  But the COOLEST item
I got was an underdash 8 track!!! I think it was for a 72.  Has a brown
case, which looks new, with no cracks or damage at all.  It all looks
new in fact.  Evidently, the guy had a problem with it and the Olds
dealer shipped it off for repair, in 1975, from the postal date on the
box it was in.  I'm not sure if it works, but dang if it ain't the best
looking 8 track assembly I've ever seen.  Apparently he never came back
to pick it up.  For shame.  I'll try it and see if it works.  This will
be too cool.  I've got several in various states of repair already, but
I think this one is just way neat.

Ok, I'm a happy toad today.  Just thought I'd share a story of finding
NOS Olds items for dirt cheap.  I guess I'm excited cuz this sorta thing
never happens to me.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1762
*********************************

