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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1748


oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, February 2 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1748



CLASSIFIED'S LIST
New Guy
Groundhog
Re: Repro OAI Hood
Re: Performance improvements of 1 vs 3 angle valve job.
Re: Thank you.
Re: New Guy
Re: Performance improvements of 1 vs 3 angle valve job.
Re: New Guy
Re: Eastwood Co
Re: Feasibility of a site with list of Olds sellers and  ratings.
Re: New Guy
Olds 455 Engine Stand
Re: Advice
Re: Radio in!--Need 8-tracks?
RE: Caravan to Dallas was: My Classic Car Olds
Re: J-2 intakes
Re: Performance improvements of 1 vs 3 angle valve job.
UNBOUNCE: Re: Feasibility of a site with list of Olds sellers and ratings.
[none]
UNBOUNCE: Olds 455 Engine Stand
Re: New Guy
Re: detailing x-mans
Re: 73 stipes
455 Rebuilt
RE: My Classic Car Olds
Re: More Work!
Re: New Guy
Re: header site
Re: New Guy
Re: New Guy
Re: New Guy
Re: UNBOUNCE: Olds 455 Engine Stand
Re: New Guy
SX question
1978 Oldsmobile Delta Royale
Re: 70-72 Buckets
Re: 70-72 Buckets
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1747
69 Olds Cutlass Front Fenders
Re: Advice
Re: Performance improvements of 1 vs 3 angle valve job.
Re: 70-72 Buckets
[none]
371 only: J-2 intakes
Re: Performance improvements of 1 vs 3 angle valve job.
Re: 70-72 Buckets
Re: New Guy

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 20:58:21 PST
From: "Ray Costanzo" <olds4sale@hotmail.com>
Subject: CLASSIFIED'S LIST

A new list has been formed that may be of some use.  It is the Olds 
Classifieds list.  It is intended for the spreading of information of 
Olds cars and parts that are for sale or being sought after.  If you 
would like to subscribe, please visit:  http://olds4sale.listbot.com/ 
and submit your subscribe request.  Hopefully we can all help eachother 
find the parts/cars/parts-cars we're looking for and keep some of those 
Oldses from going to the crusher.  Thank you.

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 23:58:36 EST
From: Oldscutaw@aol.com
Subject: New Guy

   I recently got a 1969 old cutlass "s". I was wondering if there is any
advice on treating it. This is my first car and i am 16 years of age. Is there
anything i should look out for in my car. It has 102K miles on it and the
trany was just rebuilt. The interior is crap and there is some rust that just
broke out on the passanger quarter and fender. Would fiberglass be the best
way to patch it up. I have a rear seat if anyone is interested in purchasing
along with the rear ash tray/arm rest things which i got extra with the deal.
My spyder gears were welded by some retard who had it before, what should i do
with that? I front chrome is pitted. some how diffy fluid is leaking in to my
trunk. i still have the original struts and bushings. My cylinder heads are in
rebuild right now. My wiper motor is shot. My heating is shot. I dont have an
a.c. compressor. The weather stripping is shot. The dash is shot. The front
seat is shot. After getting new front drum breaks, the car started to pull to
the left while breaking. The headliner is going because of the guy using the
sholder belt too much. The guy messed a lot of things up and i am looking
foward to working with you in the months to come.

    Alex (oldscutaw@aol.com)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 00:05:52 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: Groundhog

Just want to wish y'all a happy groundhog's day.  Hopefully that sarcastic
bastard won't see it or will see it, whichever it is that means we can start
cruising around doing burnouts with arms out the window again six weeks
sooner.  Spring time rules!

And for anyone who cares, it's also the day that Sid Vicious died.  20 years
today.

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass (hibernating)
84 Calais ($200!)
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 00:04:07 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: Repro OAI Hood

In a message dated 2/1/1999 7:25:57 PM Eastern Standard Time, Dr-
Olds@webtv.net writes:

<< but point being, the phone number is old. >>

I know Fla. rearanged area codes a while ago....  Might want to try Fla.
Information for the new area code.

Bill (would give the new number but I can't find my catalog) K

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 22:06:05 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Performance improvements of 1 vs 3 angle valve job.

If you are going to get new heads next year then I would spend as little as
possible and MAKE myself take it easy. :-)   I have found that I'm never
satisfied with getting half of what I want.  Fix the trans and heater ect
and save for the heads you want then when your ready, get it, and you'll be
happy and money ahead.

LP
- -----Original Message-----
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, February 01, 1999 6:56 PM
Subject: Performance improvements of 1 vs 3 angle valve job.


>
>Hi list,
> well I talked to the shop today and it was nothing but bad news.  The E
>heads I already had done by a different shop have only a 1 angle valve
>job done.  He also said that the springs are stock, probably the
>original ones, and have 60 lbs. force at the seat.  He says I need a 3
>angle grind, and new Crane springs (90-110 lbs.. at the seat).
>
> I asked how much he wanted to port the exhaust bowls, grind off the
>A.I.R. bumps, and smooth out the exhaust side.  He said $200 U.S.  That
>along with the $100 springs and whatever (don't have the numbers right
>here) for the 3 angle job is going to blow my budget.  I have to
>remember that I'll need a torque convertor, a carb, a heater core, and a
>ignition module before I'll be able to run the car.
>
> So the question is, how much will a 1 angle valve job hold me back?
>I'm thinking that I have to get the springs because I really don't want
>to break an old spring and drop a valve.  I'm only going to be running a
>CS1023 cam (214/224, 472/.496) so I don't think the springs need to be
>much better than stock.  Maybe I could just go with new springs and then
>get the car running this year.  Next year I could get the C heads done
>including porting and swap them and put on a Performer.  That would
>rock.
>
> And a second question, how much would a 1975 Q-jet be different from a
>1970 Q-jet?  If I take a 1975 Q-jet and get the appropriate rods and
>jets for a 1970 can I make it work for this engine?  The 1975 carb is
>from an unknown engine at the wreckers.  I just need to start saving
>money somewhere or I'll never be able to afford finishing this beast.
>
> I know, I know, probably dumb questions and I should look in the FAQ
>but I haven't had much luck with this sort of thing in the FAQ.
>
>TIA
>--
>Cliff "the stone" Simpson
>csimpson@ucalgary.ca
>'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
>http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 00:07:16 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: Thank you.

In a message dated 2/1/1999 10:58:00 PM Eastern Standard Time, Dr-
Olds@webtv.net writes:

<< I think this is the same hood Year One sells... >>

If it is, remember that it will not have provisions for the hood latch or
saftey catch.  Also, when I recieved my hood from Year One, it was not fully
cured.  I would contact your local body shop about possibly baking the hood to
cure the glass.

SeeYa!
Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 00:12:26 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: New Guy

Alex, I feel you pain. Im 15, and have a 1966 Cutlass that makes yours look
good. Mines a real POS, but she runs good. She is getting all the work done
soon, and she and I wish you luck, email me and check out my webpage
Kelly Erickson (im a guy, just a girly name)
1966 Cutlass
1954 Super 88
1968 Cutlass Supreme (my dads)
http://www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z
Gutlass66@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 23:13:38 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Performance improvements of 1 vs 3 angle valve job.

> So the question is, how much will a 1 angle valve job hold me back? 
>I'm thinking that I have to get the springs because I really don't want
>to break an old spring and drop a valve.  I'm only going to be running a
>CS1023 cam (214/224, 472/.496) so I don't think the springs need to be
>much better than stock.  Maybe I could just go with new springs and then
>get the car running this year.  Next year I could get the C heads done
>including porting and swap them and put on a Performer.  That would
>rock.

The valve job isn't something you would really notice around town.  About
the only place you would see an improvement is on the track.  Your plan
of saving your money on these heads and prepping the C heads down the
road sounds like the best plan.  Get the motor running, work out any bugs,
then upgrade.  Lets you cruise the car while the "more power itch" builds.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 23:26:07 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: New Guy

First thing is to make a list of ~everything~ the car needs, then set your
priorities on what's most important.  If just having the car to drive while
your working on it is what you want, then you want to get started on the
mechanicals.  This is the approach I would use but only start driving it
when it will be reliable and safe.  Don't go overboard with speed goodies
unless you have a huge budget, concentrate on making everything
work first.  Once it's on the road and presentable you can worry about
niceties.  If you look on my website, you can see my first car which I made
the mistake of spending too much money too quickly on.  Easy trap to
fall into.  Basically, fix what needs to be fixed, do it right the first
time, but
don't take on the stuff that can wait like the rust spots.  Put some rust
converter to keep it from getting worse but the body work can wait while
you concentrate on other things.  Just my thoughts from experience.
Also, when your ready to post stuff to the list, don't post too much in one
post.  It's hard to respond to and things will get overlooked.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/


>   I recently got a 1969 old cutlass "s". I was wondering if there is any
>advice on treating it. This is my first car and i am 16 years of age. Is
there
>anything i should look out for in my car. It has 102K miles on it and the
>trany was just rebuilt. The interior is crap and there is some rust that
just
>broke out on the passanger quarter and fender. Would fiberglass be the best
>way to patch it up. I have a rear seat if anyone is interested in
purchasing
>along with the rear ash tray/arm rest things which i got extra with the
deal.
>My spyder gears were welded by some retard who had it before, what should i
do
>with that? I front chrome is pitted. some how diffy fluid is leaking in to
my
>trunk. i still have the original struts and bushings. My cylinder heads are
in
>rebuild right now. My wiper motor is shot. My heating is shot. I dont have
an
>a.c. compressor. The weather stripping is shot. The dash is shot. The front
>seat is shot. After getting new front drum breaks, the car started to pull
to
>the left while breaking. The headliner is going because of the guy using
the
>sholder belt too much. The guy messed a lot of things up and i am looking
>foward to working with you in the months to come.
>
>    Alex (oldscutaw@aol.com)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 21:33:00 -0800
From: Chris & Robin Miller <cya442@san.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Eastwood Co

GaryDW30@aol.com wrote:

> Visited Eastwood Co. site last night for the first time.
> Perhaps I'm the only one who has had this problem, but my system crashed.
> I tried again today, same result! I was using Netscape 4.5
> I also tried today using AOL 4.whatever, and the same problem, crashed big
> time.
> Has anyone else encountered this problem? How did you solve it?
> What might I be doing wrong?
>
> Gary

Gary,
    No problems on this end!  I am using Netscape 4.5.

- --
Chris Miller
'68 442
San Diego, CA
mailto:cya442@san.rr.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Feb 1999 22:40:33 -0700 (MST)
From: Steve Utick <sutick@mt.net>
Subject: Re: Feasibility of a site with list of Olds sellers and  ratings.

Might want to look at a format like this:  http://www.resellerratings.com
This is a site that I frequent that has come in VERY handy a few times.

On Mon, 1 Feb 1999, Gene Gilpin wrote:

> 
> I think this might work. It also has the potential of making sellers known
> that the rest of us didn't know existed. Might just help someone to find a
> part they need.
> 
> Omega Man
> '74 Omega S 455 rocket
> 
> ==========================================================================
> 
> 
> 
> 
> At 08:36 AM 2/1/99 -0800, you wrote:
> >Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 11:29:22 -0700
> >From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
> >Subject: Feasibility of a site with list of Olds sellers and ratings.
> >
> >I would like to hear what the list thinks of me, or someone else, keeping a
> >list of known "good" and known "bad" internet sellers of Oldsmobile stuff on
> >a
> >web site.  I was thinking something like eBay where people could send in
> >positive or negative recommendations for others.  E.g.:
> >
> >	John Doe	JDoe@aol.com		(555)585-1234
> >	Excellent:	5
> >	Good:		2
> >	Poor:		0
> >	Warning:	0
> >
> >	Stefan Defimone	Kisskreak@prodigy.net	617-331-0655
> >	Excellent:	0
> >	Good:		0
> >	Poor:		0
> >	Warning:	1
> >	Known to use aliases and is wanted by police.
> >
> >
> >I Think this is also a GREAT IDEA.  Something possibly that would be ~great~
> >to have on a common Site like 442.COM.  Have an option for users comments
> >and such.  Not promote or advertise another site but they have one here in
> >Austin which they do the EXACT same thing for various ISPs 
> >
> >Check it out and let's do this!!
> >
> >http://www.austin360.com/technology/features/ispguide.html
> >
> >Steve Reed
> >'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
> >Austin, TX
> >
> >
> 

- -------------------------
Steve Utick
From the Heart of MONTANA
sutick@mt.net
http://www.mt.net/~sutick
_________________________

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 22:58:27 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: New Guy

Welcome to the wonderful world of Classic automobiles.  

It sounds like you need to get a whole bunch of interior stuff.  The
first thing you may wish to do is get the catalogs.  You can find the
addresses of the biggest vendors on my web page (URL below sig) and many
will give you a catalog for free.  Even though Year One charges $5 U.S.
for theirs it's probably worth it just for the drool factor.  If you are
made out of money then you can just buy a whole new interior, otherwise
you may want to start going to the local swap meets and junkyards. 
Perseverance and luck can sometimes make up for the lack of money.

I assume that the engine is a 350, how does she run and why did you pull
the heads?  Is the tranny a auto?  I imagine it is, it would be too
great to have a 4 speed muscle car when you are 16.

Avoid fiberglass patches like the plague.  It holds moisture in and will
just cause the rust (car cancer) to spread.  If you've only had the car
for a short while you may want to have a body man look at it to see the
extent of the damage.  Replacing rusty metal with new virgin metal is
the best bet if you can afford it.  Unfortunately, all the cars that
have the same panels will probably have the same problem:(  Good luck.

There's nothing particular that I know of that you need to watch out
for, these cars don't have one single weakness.  Of course this is not a
Honda, don't try to rev it up to 7,000 rpm, blowing your engine does not
impress the girls or win races:)  The lack of a rev limiter may be
considered a weakness I guess.  

I sorry, but how is the differential fluid getting up to the trunk? 
Haven't seen that one or welded spyder gears.  Doesn't sound good:( 
Wiper motors are a dime a dozen at the wrecking yards.  Just find out if
yours is a "parking" one or not and get the matching one from a early
70's G.M. car.  Also make sure it really is the motor that is shot and
not the switch/wiring.

The heating should be easy, is the motor not working?, the heater core
leaking?, or there's just no heat?  The weather striping is probably
going to cost you.  The dash you may be able to cover yourself with one
of the dash covers that were discussed here last week, or crushed
velvet.  Strike that, no crushed velvet, wrong decade.

I would say that whoever fixed your brakes should be consulted about
that pulling.  It may be contamination on the pads (leaky calipers) or
something that wasn't done right.  Gotta get that fixed.  The headliner
is probably one of those spendy things again.  Pulling one out of
another car is tough and they are often as old and weak as yours is. 
Someone with talent could probably sew one themselves but I imagine that
the effort and material costs would be too much.

Welcome to the list.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 1 Feb 99 22:52:51 +0000
From: deckcorp@fiberia.com
Subject: Olds 455 Engine Stand

I am prepare a buildup of a 455 Olds Engine and have been try to locate a 
stand.  I have
found many places selling ford and chevy stands, but no olds.  If anyone knows 
of an
online or mail company that sells Olds stands, or knows of anyone in 
Connecticut selling
an Olds 455 stand I would like to know.
Thank You,
Christopher Decker

***********************************************************
*  Get your FREE e-mail and FREE web site at FIBERIA      *
*  http://www.fiberia.com                                 *
***********************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 01:20:24 -0500
From: dgerow@student.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: Re: Advice

I thank everyone thus-far for the advice.  I think I may recant on the
"FOR SALE" sign.


> Do you think of it as a car or as a friend.  If it's a car, it boils
> down to just transportation
> If it's a friend then you'll regret it forever.

I agree totally, and I understand how silly this sounds.  I would have
to say that I might cry if I sold the car...therefore realizing its true
status.  No to mention that my girlfriend would utterly kill me (she
likes it more than I do).

Whoa is me,

Dan
- --
- ---------------------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
dgerow@stonehill.edu
http://www.stonehill.edu/~dgerow
- ---------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 01 Feb 1999 22:33:57 PST
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Radio in!--Need 8-tracks?

Hi y'all,

I know of a shop that has 8-tracks.  They look like they are in good 
shape at a second hand shop.  Are you interested?  I would be glad to 
look up the titles.  They are about a $1.00 to $3.00 each.  I will see 
if there is a player to try them out.

Cruisin',

Chris Rivier
Austin,TX
'66 Delta 88...The BEAST is BACK!
'88 Festiva...ZIPPY 166K LAWN ORNAMENT!


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 01:46:24 -0500
From: "Gary Couse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Caravan to Dallas was: My Classic Car Olds

<Snip>

I'll hopefully have the Cutlass done for the Hot Rod East Coast Power Tour.
Any dates set for that yet??  It was late summer/early fall last year,
right?

Bill Reilly

GJC

Yes Bill, it started on Oct 17th near Boston MA and I attended the Suffern
NY stop on the 18th. Quincy was logged as #3329. Haven't gotten word on the
1999 tour but will post ASAP when known. Will be looking forward to meeting
you either on the tour or the 2000 Nat's.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

Project Forum Delphi Site:
http://www.delphi.com/cc_iroc_ss

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 00:08:00 -0500
From: "Erik Gertsen" <ainode@frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: J-2 intakes

oh well, so much for creative 455s. heheh.
Erik
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: Erik Gertsen <ainode@frontiernet.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, February 01, 1999 2:23 PM
Subject: J-2 intakes


>what engines do those fit on? small block only?     i saw those j-2's on
>ebay....... and i wondered .
>
>Erik Gertsen-
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 00:24:45 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Performance improvements of 1 vs 3 angle valve job.

>Hi list,
> well I talked to the shop today and it was nothing but bad news.  The E
>heads I already had done by a different shop have only a 1 angle valve
>job done.  He also said that the springs are stock, probably the
>original ones, and have 60 lbs. force at the seat.  He says I need a 3
>angle grind, and new Crane springs (90-110 lbs.. at the seat).


I don't know, but is this good for stock springs.  Mine are all stock.  The
heads have been done (cheap), but 3-angle I am sure (I asked the guy).  For
the .496 lift, though, new springs might not be that bad.  I think that as
long as those ones are good for stock, you should be okay for sub 5000 RPM.

> I asked how much he wanted to port the exhaust bowls, grind off the
>A.I.R. bumps, and smooth out the exhaust side.  He said $200 U.S.  That
>along with the $100 springs and whatever (don't have the numbers right
>here) for the 3 angle job is going to blow my budget.  I have to
>remember that I'll need a torque convertor, a carb, a heater core, and a
>ignition module before I'll be able to run the car.

What did I tell you about your budget when you start it?  See.

If you have an air-compressor (or access to one), get (borrow from friend,
that's what I did) a carbide bur and buy some cheap stones form House of
Tools (they will work), as well as one polishing tool and you can do this
with decent satisfaction.  I did it all myself, had no clue what I was
doing, used those cheap things and the motor still runs good.  Be moderate
though, too much and unless you know what you are doing, you can go slower
or kill the head.  Even if you do it yourself and it is not perfect, it
would be better then leaving those stupid bumps.  If you want, I can tell
you exactly what I did step by step for real cheap.  $200 US sounds okay,
because it is s bit of work.  Springs, with locks and retainers will set you
back about $220 CAN.  Torque Converter (one I got) was $129.99.  It works
okay, should be perfect for that cam.  As far as carb, the one I got is the
cheapest one you can get for a 455 olds (any V8 olds for that matter).  I
paid $213.99 with no core but if you give your $15 scrap yard one back, you
save $15.   It is off a '70 442 Q-jet from Auto Value.  I went to ask and
the guy there (can't remember his name) had a '81 Regal with a 455 Olds
(ended up getting the '70 442 intake from him for $20, he just put a
performer, + besides Tom, probable one of the few guys that know anything
about Olds at local parts stores).  He said that particular carb is the
cheapest in that size.  He used it, even now with performer.  It is Auto
Line.


> So the question is, how much will a 1 angle valve job hold me back?
>I'm thinking that I have to get the springs because I really don't want
>to break an old spring and drop a valve.  I'm only going to be running a
>CS1023 cam (214/224, 472/.496) so I don't think the springs need to be
>much better than stock.  Maybe I could just go with new springs and then
>get the car running this year.  Next year I could get the C heads done
>including porting and swap them and put on a Performer.  That would
>rock.


Don't know about the 1 angle but you already got answer form others.  Cs
would be good and that Performer.

> And a second question, how much would a 1975 Q-jet be different from a
>1970 Q-jet?  If I take a 1975 Q-jet and get the appropriate rods and
>jets for a 1970 can I make it work for this engine?  The 1975 carb is
>from an unknown engine at the wreckers.  I just need to start saving
>money somewhere or I'll never be able to afford finishing this beast.

I got that carb as well ('76 same as that '75 but off a 455 Olds for sure,
and '70 442 carb).  I was going to rebuild that '76 but when I saw that '70
Q-jet, I though NO WAY.  The '70 has way fewer hook-ups (emission and other
crap) which makes your life and tuning a lot easier.  That is what you want.
If you got the '75 rebuilt, it would work fine (remember, 455) but by the
time you get metering rods ($20 or so, MOPAC), different jets (another $10),
rebuilt kit with float, new chocke pull-off, couple of cans of Carb Cleaner
(~$70+ at least from Auto Value, did my 307 carb, I know), and then spend a
few hours of touchy work, I say that the $200 carb would be better choice.
It runs great, but I did have a problem with the first one.  Returned it
though with no problem and the other one has been doing good.

I would say though, that if you spend about 8 hours on those E heads, use a
decent carb and headers, your 455 would make enough power that the Cs might
not be justified for street use (you could sell them to me :-).  If you get
that Performer, another bonus.  I am SURE that with 3.36 gears, CS1023 cam
and headers, your car would be way faster then mine.  That is not saying
much, but for a major budget street cars (like yours and mine), that is not
bad.  I know what with headers, proper tuning (have not done that yet) and a
few more little things, I could get my car to really move.  A set of 3.73s
or 4.10s would also help my porky Olds hustle.  I know what you are going
through, but the 455 WILL NOT disappoint in any way.  You had way more
experience with other engines of various sizes so your expectations might be
much higher then mine, but still.  Your 455 will do just fine with the E
heads and so on.  The 455 was my first experience with most anything on and
about cars.  I know that if I were doing it now I would do a few things
different, but I guess one can always say that.  I like my 455 but think
that it could get a bit more power out of it.  But then again, with the
exception of the small port job, the motors is essentially stock.  (cam a
wee-bit bigger then stock, rather funny).  It is 50% the size of my old 307
with 200% the power.  By the way, I got my wheels today and took the car out
(1 km from my house) to get some gas.  Was on the road for 15 minutes, got
three "nice car" comments and filled $20 worth of Supreme that hardly moved
my gas gauge.  As I was leaving the gas-station, a guy filling up his truck
and the clerk girl were looking, so as soon as I got onto the road, MASH, it
hit the throttle, fish-tailed from one side to the other a couple of times
(about 30 feet) and left TWO, nice, dark marks on the road.  I guess the
15x8s, sway bar, boxing the control arms and air shock did squat for my
traction. Ohhh, well. My '81 Regency fits about $16 of gas (propane) FULL
when totally EMPTY.  That is KING.  455 rule, though.  The Regency can
hardly leave a single mark on ice.

Igor.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 06:50:56 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Re: Feasibility of a site with list of Olds sellers and 
ratings.

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Gib Loudon" <cutlass@mill.tds.net>
Subject: Re: Feasibility of a site with list of Olds sellers and ratings.

Too all that were interested in creating the list of good and bad sellers, I
am volunteering to put up this list on Cutlass Net.  All I ask is that you
all come up with a list of dealers you have had problems with and ones you
reccomend, and I'll be happy to add them to Cutlass Net.  Just let me know.
I'm not sure who started the Idea, but if that person could contact me,
please do so using the info below.

Gib "The Rocketman" Loudon
Cutlass Net
http://www.cutlass.net
cutlass@mill.tds.net
loud5269@kettering.edu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 06:52:40 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: [none]

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Ray Costanzo" <olds4sale@hotmail.com>
Subject: CLASSIFIED'S LIST

A new list has been formed that may be of some use.  It is the Olds 
Classifieds list.  It is intended for the spreading of information of 
Olds cars and parts that are for sale or being sought after.  If you 
would like to s*bscribe, please visit:  http://olds4sale.listbot.com/ 
and submit your s*bscribe request.  Hopefully we can all help eachother 
find the parts/cars/parts-cars we're looking for and keep some of those 
Oldses from going to the crusher.  Thank you.

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 06:56:09 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Olds 455 Engine Stand

Not on the list; respond to deckcorp@fiberia.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	deckcorp@fiberia.com
Subject: Olds 455 Engine Stand

I am prepare a buildup of a 455 Olds Engine and have been try to locate a
stand.  I have found many places selling ford and chevy stands, but no
olds.  If anyone knows of an online or mail company that sells Olds
stands, or knows of anyone in Connecticut selling an Olds 455 stand I
would like to know.  

Thank You, 
Christopher Decker

***********************************************************
*  Get your FREE e-mail and FREE web site at FIBERIA      *
*  http://www.fiberia.com                                 *
***********************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 07:41:14 -0500
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@pa.net>
Subject: Re: New Guy

Alex :

I have been working on my 69 S for 14 months.
Best advise on Quarters ... check on lower door side
of fronts ... lower door sides and truck floor on back.

They have a tendancy to rot out. I desided to go with new
metal panels. They are available from Year One.

Also check brake drums and wheel studs. I found 
two replacement drums with studs that were wrong size. 

Go slow ... do it right ... 69 S is a  beautiful car.
Painted mine last Nov. Spectre Red. A real head turner.

66 442
69 Cutlass S
77 Malibu
81 Cutlass S
85 Cutlass S
69 Chevy FWD  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 07:38:13 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: detailing x-mans

Roger,

Thanks for the testimonial.

Mark Hahn
75 Delta 88 Royale Conv.
Cincinnati, Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 07:38:26 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 73 stipes

the 73 Cutlass Supreme that was on the OCC site was modified with those Hurst
Olds Stripes( was not factory,on that car anyway) like I have said , if you
pushed the dealer hard enough you could get almost anything, Hot Rod Harry  
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">1973 Olds Cutlass 455
4speed</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 07:46:06 -0500
From: "James E. Brady III" <James.E.Brady.1@gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: 455 Rebuilt

Well guys, I finally did it.  I rebuilt my 455 in my '73 Delta!  The engine
was removed without a hitch (big engine compartment) and stripped down and
the reason for no compression in cylinder #2 was a burned exhaust valve.
There was very little ridge after 130k miles so I simply honed the
cylinders(thank God for the high nickel content!).  I installed a new oil
pump, timing chain, freeze plugs and an Edelbrock Performer cam and aluminum
intake.  For the heads I lapped in the valves including the one new one and
installed new seals.  I spent about a day cleaning and painting the engine
bay and a few days cleaning brackets and parts for the motor.  After
assembling and painting the motor I installed it and it went in as easy as
it came out.  For the exhaust manifolds I am trying this stuff Mark Hahn
sold me called Calyx.  Works awsome so far!  It is this gray spread that I
applied with my hands and worked it into my rusty manifolds and keeps them
looking gray.  Works better than any paint and you don't have to sand blast
your manifolds.  Anyway, I wish it fixed manifold leaks!  Also the drivers
side manifold is broken and my fix did not work so well.  After firing it up
with no real problem I set the timing and adjusted the idle speed and
everything ran well from there.  The engine really looks sharp too.  I
painted the motor stock blue except for the aluminum intake and added a
chrome Oldsmobile air cleaner with a 455 Rocket decal.   Of course the focus
now are my manifolds.  The passenger side manifold is not broken but leaks.
I tried two gaskets right off the bat but that didn't seem to help.  Any
suggestions?  Also I need to replace the drivers side manifold.  Anybody
have one for sale?

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta 88 Royale Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 07:49:41 -0500 
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: My Classic Car Olds

> If you ask me, I don't think Dennis Gage would know two shits about muscle
> cars if it weren't for cue cards. With that goofy mustashe and hat he
> looks
> like he should be putting around in the horseless carrage, sipping tea and
> having lenghthy conversations about his knickers. NOT riding around in the
> rare classic muscle that half of us would kill to get a ride in and
> speaking with obvious UN-knowlege about them. He's almost as bad as 
> 
Now, I don't work for My Classic Car, or Bradley David, or have any
affiliation with the show, people, producers, blah, blah ,blah etc.  But
I've seen them filming the show in person, ON LOCATION, LIVE and I NEVER saw
cue cards.  It fact, they had to do multiple takes because Dennis kept
messing up his memorized lines.
And yes, we are all entitled to our opinions.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris/

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 05:00:49 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: More Work!

Doug Newman <newmand@wcbi.com> wrote:
 	John, this is an '87 442, right?  Has the engine been replaced, or
is this the #'s matching motor?  If so, you have a 307 "9", not a "Y".

>Well, I actually talked about 3 cars in that message:
My 87 442, my 86 Supreme, and Mom's 86 Cutlass Supreme! The 86 has the
blown intake gasket.

>As a side note my 87 442 has a GM Goodwrench Y code replacement
longblock motor. The previous owner replaced the blown 9 motor and
according to him the Y motor was the only one available at the time.
All the peripherals (carb, intake, dist, brackets, etc) from the 9
motor are still there.
  





  I've been told by a good parts man that besides the slight
> difference in HP, the "9" also has a few subtle differences.  He
showed
> me a diagram where the belt routings were different.  When I had my
> belts replaced in Jan. of '94, I'm pretty sure the shop I use
installed
> "Y" belts, because they squeaked like the devil as soon as they were
> installed.  I had the car tuned up early last spring, and I went by
the
> Olds dealer and bought plugs, belts, etc. that were specific to a "9"
> engine so I'd be sure the shop didn't buy inferior/wrong parts.  That
> did the trick - no more squealing belts.  I know this doesn't help
your
> gasket problem, but it's something to keep in mind whenever you do any
> work, IF you still have the original engine.
> 
> 	Hope this helps,
> 
> Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
> Columbus, MS         1987 442
> 
> http://www.442.com/newman.html               1987 442
> http://www.442.com/newmantape.html        Centennial Tape Info.  
> 	   
> 
> 
> 	
> 
==
"2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our cars, trucks and a whole lot more at
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 08:33:21 -0500
From: "Robert Collins" <collins@peterboro.net>
Subject: Re: New Guy

Welding the spyders was a trick that we used back in the 60's when we were
1/4 mile dirt oval racing.  If you welded them you locked the rearend so
that you had equal traction to both wheels, call it an economy positrac.  I
don't know what effect this would have on the roadability of your car, but
it will leave two equal black marks on the pavement.  Maybe someone on the
list might know of any problems this could cause.  Personally I would not
want it on a street vehicle as I think under the right conditions it could
land you into trouble.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 06:53:03 -0500
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: Re: header site

I got wind of Ed a few years ago.  I've talked to him a bunch, got his
catalog, header articles and audio tape (which is very comprehensive).

My opinion is that the guy is bang on the mark.  Knows his stuff through
and through.  To my knowledge he hasn't received much press in the auto
magazines.  I would attribute this mostly to the fact that his opinion
often runs somewhat contrary to some of the perspectives put forth in some
of the tech articles that feature some of the big header companies.  Gee...
I wonder what might be going on there...?

Ed is loquacious (nice way of saying he can talk your ear off).  I've
called with a quick 5 minute question and been on for close to an hour, but
he sure knows his stuff.

I haven't done business with him (as I elected to stick with cast iron
manifolds for my '72 Cutlass) so I can't personally attest to the quality
of his work or parts, but if I were to go with headers he'd be my choice.

jp



>> Hey everybody. I found an excelent site about headers. These guys pull
>> no punches. It has alot and I mean alot of info on headers and header
>> design. It's a good (and long) read.
>>
>> Shane
>>
>> http://www.headersbyed.com/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 08:45:56 -0500 (EST)
From: throckmail@webtv.net (mark sopp)
Subject: Re: New Guy

i am not certain, but i think permanent posi traction would be dangerous
when cornering because it would not allow inside wheel tospin at a
slower rate than outside wheel 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 09:35:04 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Re: New Guy

Welding the spider gears is not good.  While it does lock things together
inside the rear, it can cause your vehicle to go straight ahead at the most
unhandy of times, like wet or slippery roads.  It is also possible for the
weld to break and cause the rear to actually stop turning when weld or ??? get
caught in the ring and pinion.  Very bad in traffic.  I would suggest
replacing the entire rear end, housing and all for the less experienced.  If
you have experience setting up ring and pinions you could find a donor and
swap out the internals.  Depending on how they were welded and what they were
welded to, you might get by grinding the weld away and just replacing the
spider gears.  Regardless of what you find, some work will be involved to
straighten out the mess.

Good Luck,
Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 09:46:15 -0500
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: New Guy

I had a car with a spool in it and it would hop around corners. Not safe! My
mechanic is my neighbor and he wouldn't inspect the car with the spool in
there.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 09:50:50 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Olds 455 Engine Stand

I am prepare a buildup of a 455 Olds Engine and have been try to locate a
stand....
______

Chris, are you talking about an engine stand for rebuilding the motor, or a
storage stand for holding the  motor once the rebuild is complete and prior
to installation in the car.  In the former case, what you want is a good
four-leg engine stand.  These have a rotating head which allow you to turn
the block over for installation of the crank and rods, for example.  These
are universal, as the head attaches to the bellhousing face of the block
with adjustable arms.  The storage stand is typically a low welded steel
frame with casters which simply allows you to support the motor temporarily
and roll it around the garage floor.  Frankly, I see these latter stands as
being of limited useage unless you own a race team and have several spare
motors lying around.  You can't use a storage stand for rebuilding the
motor, as you can't get access to the bottom of the block.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 09:45:23 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: New Guy

Welding the spyders was a trick that we used back in the 60's...I think
under the right conditions it could land you into trouble.
_________

Yep.  As someone else has pointed out, when the car is turning the inside
and outside tires travel in different length arcs.  The outside tire must
travel further, with the result that the outside axle shaft will turn more
times than the inside shaft.  This is the whole reason for a differential.
If the spider gears are welded (or a spool is used), one tire must break
loose during this turn.  At a minimum this is detrimental to tire life, but
more importantly is that it _sucks_ for cornering (a tire can't generate
any lateral grip if it's spinning).  Spools are really only useful for
straight-line drag racing, as you don't have to turn corners (just make
sure you slow _way_ down before attempting to turn onto the return road at
the end of the strip!).

Note, by the way, that this different arc length phenomena is the reason
behind the use of "stagger" on oval track cars - inflating the inboard and
outboard tires to different pressures and thus different diameters.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 10:13:41 -0500
From: Jeff Howell <howell@bbt.com>
Subject: SX question

I'm looking to purchase a 71 SX hardtop and I'm trying to find production
numbers. Can any body help?

Thanks,

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 10:35:51 EST
From: Wolters3m1@aol.com
Subject: 1978 Oldsmobile Delta Royale

We have a 1978 Olds Delta Royale Sedan 4DR, in mint condition. It belongs to
my grandmother who has been the only owner.  It has a rebuilt engine with
about 1,000 miles on it, if that much.  The car has never been dented,
wrecked, etc.  It has new paint, (painted to match the original paint,), the
interior is cloth, with never any tears, rips, stains, etc.  Is this car
considered a classic?  What is a car like this worth? She is talking about
possibly getting rid of it, but we are telling her to keep it.  I don't think
she knows the value of the car. (Of course we don't either)  If anyone has any
information they could share I would greatly appreciate it.
Mandi Wolters

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 10:55:59 EST
From: SrDietW30@aol.com
Subject: Re: 70-72 Buckets

Does anyone here find that the track movement on the 70-72 bucket seats is to
short ?  The seats do not seam to go back far enough for me and this has me
eating the steering wheel.  I'm 6'2" and it's very hard to get in and out, and
not very comfortable to drive my 71 442 Conv..

Any suggestions ??

Steve Dietrich
  71 442 W30 Conv. (Painted & at the top shop this week)
    S/E PA.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 11:01:36 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: 70-72 Buckets

Take a look in a Fisher Body manual.  There is a way to adjust the seat
mounting position to provide more rearward travel for the B and C body cars.
I would bet the A bodies had a similar set up.
Regards,
Fred

- -----Original Message-----
From: SrDietW30@aol.com <SrDietW30@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, February 02, 1999 10:58 AM
Subject: Re: 70-72 Buckets


>Does anyone here find that the track movement on the 70-72 bucket seats is
to
>short ?  The seats do not seam to go back far enough for me and this has me
>eating the steering wheel.  I'm 6'2" and it's very hard to get in and out,
and
>not very comfortable to drive my 71 442 Conv..
>
>Any suggestions ??
>
>Steve Dietrich
>  71 442 W30 Conv. (Painted & at the top shop this week)
>    S/E PA.
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 11:02:05 -0500
From: "James E. Brady III" <James.E.Brady.1@gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1747

Cliff,
    I am answering this one not because I am an expert mechanic but because
I have just complete a similiar setup.  I have J heads and did not grind the
bumps in the head since I am not after total performance.  I simply utilized
my original springs since the cam is under a half inch lift.  I also lapped
the valves in by hand just to ensure a seal.  This was truly a budget
rebuild.  Some will say I took alot of chances but the way I look at it the
only problems I had before was a bad exhaust valve and bad valve seals
evidenced by the puff of smoke at startup.  With new exhaust valve, valve
stem seals and some simple hand ground valves I have a motor that doesn't
burn or leak oil.  Also, the cam you chose is the maximum cam you can use
with a stock converter.  It idles with a slight lope and cruises smoothly.
Remember that the machine shop has alot to gain by doing all that work for
you.  I always talk to someone I trust to find out if the work the machine
shop wants to perform is really necessary.  Good luck and if you have any
specific questions about the cam let me know.

Jim Brady
'73 Olds Delta 88 Royale Convertible

>Hi list,
> well I talked to the shop today and it was nothing but bad news.  The E
>heads I already had done by a different shop have only a 1 angle valve
>job done.  He also said that the springs are stock, probably the
>original ones, and have 60 lbs. force at the seat.  He says I need a 3
>angle grind, and new Crane springs (90-110 lbs.. at the seat).
>
> I asked how much he wanted to port the exhaust bowls, grind off the
>A.I.R. bumps, and smooth out the exhaust side.  He said $200 U.S.  That
>along with the $100 springs and whatever (don't have the numbers right
>here) for the 3 angle job is going to blow my budget.  I have to
>remember that I'll need a torque convertor, a carb, a heater core, and a
>ignition module before I'll be able to run the car.
>
> So the question is, how much will a 1 angle valve job hold me back?
>I'm thinking that I have to get the springs because I really don't want
>to break an old spring and drop a valve.  I'm only going to be running a
>CS1023 cam (214/224, 472/.496) so I don't think the springs need to be
>much better than stock.  Maybe I could just go with new springs and then
>get the car running this year.  Next year I could get the C heads done
>including porting and swap them and put on a Performer.  That would
>rock.
>
> And a second question, how much would a 1975 Q-jet be different from a
>1970 Q-jet?  If I take a 1975 Q-jet and get the appropriate rods and
>jets for a 1970 can I make it work for this engine?  The 1975 carb is
>from an unknown engine at the wreckers.  I just need to start saving
>money somewhere or I'll never be able to afford finishing this beast.
>
> I know, I know, probably dumb questions and I should look in the FAQ
>but I haven't had much luck with this sort of thing in the FAQ.
>
>TIA
>- --
>Cliff "the stone" Simpson
>csimpson@ucalgary.ca
>'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
>http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 11:46:39 EST
From: PICKER@aol.com
Subject: 69 Olds Cutlass Front Fenders

I am looking for a pair front fenders for my 69 Olds Cutlass.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 11:51:50 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Advice

In a message dated 2/1/99 6:36:52 PM EST, dgerow@coal.stonehill.edu writes:

<<  I have
 a vehilce (non-olds)  >>

If it's a non-Olds, why in heaven's name would you keep it?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 11:53:39 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Performance improvements of 1 vs 3 angle valve job.

>	I asked how much he wanted to port the exhaust bowls, grind off the
>A.I.R. bumps, and smooth out the exhaust side.  He said $200 U.S.  That
>along with the $100 springs and whatever (don't have the numbers right
>here) for the 3 angle job is going to blow my budget.  I have to
>remember that I'll need a torque convertor, a carb, a heater core, and a
>ignition module before I'll be able to run the car.  

The heater core and ignition module should be pocket-change (under $40
total; couple tanks of gas); a torque-converter upgrade is definitely the
thing to do, though, when rebuilding the motor. Unfortunately, so is a
3-angle valve job.

I'd recommend the 3-angle and the new springs, while leaving the heads
unported, if $$$ is an issue. But, if you can't afford a 3-angle, you can't
afford it; you'll have no choice but to go with what you can afford. Good
valvesprings would definitely serve you better than a 3-angle, though, if
that is the choice you have to make.

>	And a second question, how much would a 1975 Q-jet be different from a
>1970 Q-jet?  If I take a 1975 Q-jet and get the appropriate rods and
>jets for a 1970 can I make it work for this engine?  The 1975 carb is
>from an unknown engine at the wreckers.  I just need to start saving
>money somewhere or I'll never be able to afford finishing this beast.

If it's a '75, it's likely a "170" series carb, where the stamped number
reads 170452xx, with the last two numbers determining the application. The
primary rods will be different (and non-interchangeable) from the '70 carb
if it is that newer series. Plus, you'll have the fitting for the
evaporative canister, rather than an internal bowl vent, so you'll have to
accomodate that different venting scheme. It could probably work fine on
your '70, but there's no guarantee it will work better than what you have
now; it too is used, and can have worn throttle-shafts or a warped/cracked
float-bowl (the only really fatal Q-jet problems, but they too can be
repaired). I'd stick with the '70 carb and rebuild it.
________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	    MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
http://studentweb.providence.edu/~rbarry/wheels/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 12:12:54 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: 70-72 Buckets

SrDietW30@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Does anyone here find that the track movement on the 70-72 bucket seats is to
> short ?  The seats do not seam to go back far enough for me and this has me
> eating the steering wheel.  I'm 6'2" and it's very hard to get in and out, 
and
> not very comfortable to drive my 71 442 Conv..

Boy am I glad I'm not the only one to have this problem.  At 6'3" and a
lot more pounds than I would like to admit to, I also have problems with
the seat and it's distance from the steering wheel.  And the leg room is
a little tight also.  This seems to be true for both the bucket and
bench seat models for me.  What I'm thinking of trying is to place a
"block" under the front seat mountings pieces and tilting the whole seat
frame back a little to change the angle to the steering wheel.  Has
anyone tried this and, if so, how did it work?  I've noticed over the
years that most of the cars with a tilt adjustment to both the bottom
and back of the seat would allow you to sit a little closer to the wheel
but feel as if it were further back if you tilted the seat back a
little.  If done correctly I would think you could do this without
altering the parts permanently.  Never did like changing something on
one of these cars that you couldn't change back easily.

Don Sowers

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 12:11:54 -0500 (EST)
From: Gerry L Loudon <loud5269@kettering.edu>
Subject: [none]

	unsubscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 12:13:13 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: 371 only: J-2 intakes

In a message dated 99-02-01 21:50:43 EST, you write:

<< The J-2 will fit on the 371 and on the 394. >>

First of all, there are NO stupid questions.

Secondly, it was not 6 months ago Karl was making the same inquiries. Karl
would be in HiPo heaven if a J-2 394 were feasable. Did hear that someone did
it with machining to the intake (((~shiver~))).

The J-2 intake is designed to fir the 371cid motor ~and~its~cylinder~heads~.
These are engines with unit #s A through F(?) available 1957 to 1961 (?).
(((Format is A100100001 or some such, 1965 on blocks WAY different)))

And further, the J-2 would be a poor choice for 455s as the runners are pretty
narrow.

Would you believe that Edelbrock makes a tri-power intake for Ch*tty cars?
Came up from the Roch page recently.
Apparently for the old Roch 2G's with smaller throttle bores.

If only Oldsmobilers could get them to make tri-power intakes for 1965-on BB
motors!

Hey J.C.?
Know anyone willing to have thier w-30 intake cut in half for the good of
Oldsmobilers everywhere?

That would be too cool.

(Hey, baby! Wanna set this town on fire? Got a lighter? Vrooom!)

SOM

&KA

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Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 10:27:07 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Performance improvements of 1 vs 3 angle valve job.

Thanks for the info everyone.  I think I have to get the springs since I
consider that an investment in not dropping a valve, the 3 angle job is 120 so
I may go for it, but the porting is probably out.  Are the A.I.R. bumps smaller
on the E's than the Ga,s?  They just don't look big enough to be a problem to
me but then I know squad about heads.  Anyway, I consider the heads to be
pretty easy to pull off.  Next fall, if the price of oil is up and I know my
employment is secure, I can get them ported or get the C's done properly and
put them on.

A couple of people have touched on the carb and I should clarify that when I
bought my car it had been vandalized and there was no carb, distributor cap,
battery, alternator, radiator cap, things like that.  So I picked up a carb
from the junkyard but it was sitting on a shelf so I'm not sure what it is,
almost surely not a 69 or 70.  I also have a second carb that is according to
the codes a 75.  If I had a 70 I would just rebuild it and put it on but I may
have to buy one like Igor suggested.

Thanks again for your help.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

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Date: Tue, 02 Feb 1999 10:38:24 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: 70-72 Buckets

First a dumb question, are the seats mounted correctly?  I know that when I've
installed bucket seat mounting hardware that the one side of the seat has a
spring on it and will move forward while the other side can be set back.  If
your not careful it's easy to mount the bolts so that there is a lot less
adjustment then there should be.  Of course if the buckets were stock then they
are in the correct place.

Now an idea, how about welding a bit of ready-rod to a piece of flat iron. 
Drill a hole in the flat iron and bolt it to the floor and bolt the seat rails
to the ready rod.  If I remember the way those seats install that should work
but you may not have enough room on the back for the old bolt sticking up. 
Anyway, that might move the seat back enough that you don't need to adjust the
tilt.

Of course your passengers in the back might not have any leg room but hey,
that's life, if you don't like the view from the back then buy your own car:)

Don Sowers wrote:
> 
> Boy am I glad I'm not the only one to have this problem.  At 6'3" and a
> lot more pounds than I would like to admit to, I also have problems with
> the seat and it's distance from the steering wheel.  And the leg room is
> a little tight also.  This seems to be true for both the bucket and
> bench seat models for me.  What I'm thinking of trying is to place a
> "block" under the front seat mountings pieces and tilting the whole seat
> frame back a little to change the angle to the steering wheel.  Has
> anyone tried this and, if so, how did it work?  I've noticed over the
> years that most of the cars with a tilt adjustment to both the bottom
> and back of the seat would allow you to sit a little closer to the wheel
> but feel as if it were further back if you tilted the seat back a
> little.  If done correctly I would think you could do this without
> altering the parts permanently.  Never did like changing something on
> one of these cars that you couldn't change back easily.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 2 Feb 1999 12:41:55 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: New Guy

In a message dated 99-02-02 00:02:55 EST, you write:

<< . It has 102K miles on it and the trany was just rebuilt....... some how
diffy fluid is leaking in to my trunk. i still have the original struts and
bushings. My cylinder heads are in rebuild right now. My wiper motor is shot.
My heating is shot. I dont have an
 a.c. compressor. The weather stripping is shot. The dash is shot. The front
seat is shot. After getting new front drum breaks, the car started to pull to
the left while breaking. The headliner is going because of the guy using the
sholder belt too much. The guy messed a lot of things up and i am looking
foward to working with you in the months to come. >>

OK

First, at 102K you may need to swap the timing set (chain and gears). Easiest
way to tell is to see where the timing indicator is when you just back off
pinging. At 74K my 1965 Dynamic 88 was at what i estimated to be 19' before
TDC factory spec is 7.5 an interesting experience and a broken (by me)
vibrational damper later, less than 10 (7.5 if I wanted).

Wiper motor.
You could look around, but look at Supercars Unlimited (where 4 4 2 is all
they do). Yes their wipermotors are 4 4 2 repros, but the 1965 one fit my
full-size and i am certain the 1969 model will fit your Cutlass. Mind they
provide wiper motor only, the washer fluid pump assembly will have to be
provided by you. Greg Rollins of Supercars is on the list (or was) and may be
of some help.

A/C compressor.
If your car came w/o A/C, do not worry about it. Yes it is nice in the summer,
but is more drag on the engine. My car came from the factory w/o A/C, or the
ducting necessary for A/C. I have found enough parts cars that I could install
~correct~ 1965 factory A/C AND the proper ducting!
Get the olds running properly first, luxuries should be a low priority.

Mysterious diff fluid in trunk.
Karl (me) has an idea about that one.
Bad pinion seal. (mebbe)
Others have covered the spyder gear scenario.
Karl is willing to bet that a replacement "rear end" will put and end to diff
fluid in the trunk.
Under the car, is there a broad streak of fluid parallel to the bumpers that
is approximately in line with the front of the diff housing?

<< I still have the original struts and bushings. >>

Installed?

I just replaced 4 shocks and 4 coil springs while going from 14' rim bias-ply
tire sized P14 tires to p15/235 tires. THis increased my ride height by
something on the order of eight inches. Springs sag with age and shocks give
up the ghost.

At a later date Karl will send you a list of suppliers for parts as he
mentioned.
Gonna watch super bowl now.

Good luck!

SOM

&KA
ICQ #20414415
http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1748
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