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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1713


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, January 11 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1713



Ooops! (at least it wasn't a binary post... was Re: [FSJ-List] Y2K)
Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"? ('68 Cutlass)
car for sale
car for sale
Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"? ('68 Cutlass)
Re: Roller Rockers
HP rating Question
Interior color Q
Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
Olds on "Brimstone" and Visa ad
Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"? ('68 Cutlass)
Re: HP rating Question
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"? ('68 Cutlass)
Re: HP rating Question
History of the 80's
Fw: Lightning Rods
Re: HP rating Question
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
Other HP questions.
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
84 Cutlass on E-Bay
Re: how do remove crome molding?
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
Re: [Speaker Location]
Re: HP rating Question
Re: 350 Heads on a 330 (or Vice-Versa)
Re: HP rating Question
Re: Other HP questions.
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
Need Nodular small-block crank.
UNBOUNCE: '70 4-4-2 For Sale
Misc Parts for Sale  67-72
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
Re: HP rating Question
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
Re: the diff between stock 307/HO 307
Re: 9 motors again
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
Swapping a 425 for a 455 
Re: RE: Disc brake conversion/ Vacuum pump
Re: A different disc brake Q
Re: Swapping a 425 for a 455 
Re: Swapping a 425 for a 455
Re: [Speaker Location]
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
Re: Interior color Q
Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"? ('68 Cutlass)
RE: Other HP Questions
Dual Exhaust for 67 425
Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"? ('68 Cutlass)
Re: Dual Exhaust for 67 425
Beater vs Restore
Re: Parts
Setup 85 Cutlass 307 CCC Carb
Re: 350 Heads on a 330 (or Vice-Versa)
Re: Setup 85 Cutlass 307 CCC Carb
Re: Bad Coil (was : Water in gas)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 03:15:34 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Ooops! (at least it wasn't a binary post... was Re: [FSJ-List] Y2K)

Sorry about the irrelevant post; I'm on a few different digests (one for
each car/truck I have) where I have to fill in the "To:" field manually, and
I got the addresses mixed up in a batch of replies. I'll try to keep that
mistake to a minimum here (they'll probably be getting some confusing Olds
posts from me as well...). Oh, and if you're interested, FSJ stood for
"Full-Size Jeep", the category my Wagoneer falls into.
**********************************
Bob Barry   rbarry@providence.edu
1969 Toronado (455/TH425)
1970 Cutlass Supreme SX (455/TH400)
1978 Buick Electra Limited (403/TH400)
1988 Jeep Grand Wagoneer (360/TF727)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 22:22:17 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"? ('68 
Cutlass)

"voltage regulator" thats what its called. Harry 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 19:08:04 -0800
From: "P. &N. Bottomley" <ainlet@seaside.net>
Subject: car for sale

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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1970 442 w30 455 4speed. car partially apart .few parts missing. email =
me at ainlet@seaside.net

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>1970 442 w30 455 4speed. car =
partially apart=20
.few parts missing. email me at =
ainlet@seaside.net</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 19:11:28 -0800
From: "P. &N. Bottomley" <ainlet@seaside.net>
Subject: car for sale

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

1970 442 w30 455 4speed  car is partially apart .email me at =
ainlet@seaside.net

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>1970 442 w30 455 4speed&nbsp; car is =
partially=20
apart .email me at <A=20
href=3D"mailto:ainlet@seaside.net">ainlet@seaside.net</A></FONT></DIV></B=
ODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 22:25:57 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"? ('68 
Cutlass)

regulator is on the firewall( square cover )..

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 22:37:27 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Roller Rockers

I use Crane roller rockers on my 350 circle-track engines, they're in a
complete kit from Dave Smith Engineering.  Does take some machining -- you
mill down the area where the giudeplates will sit and drill/tap out the holes
for the 7/16" studs.

Never have had a problem with this setup.  Note: all stock rockers are 1.6
ratio.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kanas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 22:47:28 EST
From: TheBlue67@aol.com
Subject: HP rating Question

what is the horsepower rating of a stock 67 330 4bbl Vs. a stock 71 350
4bbl???

Thanks
Brent 
1967 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 22:50:06 EST
From: TheBlue67@aol.com
Subject: Interior color Q

just how rare is the saffron yellow interior for 67?? i only recall seeing a
couple of cars with this color and i know of a parts car for sale with this
color. i think this color would look cool inside my crystal blue 67
convertible.

so how rare is it??

Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 03:56:09 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

I was wondering how many people on this list use their old Cutlasses for
daily-drivers? I took my SX to help my friends move into their new house,
about 1 1/2 hours north, in a slushy rain, and enjoyed the whole drive.

Now, I've got a fresh quarter panel lined up, and will probably have it, as
well as the other side and the trunk, redone this summer, after which an
hour trip through slush will be out of the question.

I was just wondering which route people here have taken with their
Cutlasses; it seems you have to make a choice either to make your ride like
new, and restrict the driving due to the wear and tear and dirt and grime
that undo the careful restoration, or leave it pretty rough and enjoy
driving it without worries under any kind of conditions.

Which route have you chosen, and what tradeoffs/drawbacks have you experienced?

Bob Barry
'69 Toronado (garage queen)
'70 Cutlass Supreme SX (rough daily driver)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 23:00:19 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Olds on "Brimstone" and Visa ad

I guess no one but me watches this show, it's on Friday nights on Fox and last
Friday's episode was rather interesting:

The premise of the show is that this guy dies and is sent to Hell.  Because
he's an ex-cop, the Devil sends him back to Earth to search for some souls
that escaped.  He destroys their eyes, and they return to Hell.  Anyway, the
ex-cop doesn't have a car and he's looking at a used car dealer at some
potential rides, but all he has is under $40.00.  The Devil says he has a deal
for him, and removes the cover off of a 70 A-Body convertible that looks
like..........well, you get the picture.  Runs like that, too.  Well, after he
gets his work done in this episode, he's rummaging around in the trunk and
picks out some things as he's talking to the Devil about how well he did this
job.  He slams down the decklid and moves toward the front of the car, which
has it's headlights on.  Pulls out his pistol and shoots out the headlights,
and the car disappears just like the bad guy and girl, back to.........well,
you know.  At least the Devil had some taste.............

The odd things about this 'vert were that the grilles were from a 442
(definitely not Cutlass or C/S items), but the inside door skins had the "C/S"
emblem on them just like my SX.  And the sport mirrors looked more like the
'71-'72 models more than the '70's.  I didn't get a good look at the rear
bumper to see if it was a 70 or 71-72, the car could have had an entire front
clip on it from another car.  They bashed in the hood pretty good during one
of the fight scenes, and it had a ridiculous looking hood ornament that played
into the plot (stuck it in the bad guy's eyes!) that one guy tried to buy off
of the ex-cop.

Secondly, there's a Visa ad on right now that features famous drivers
lamenting about the Daytona 500.  Near the end of the ad they show a 70 - 72
A-body driving down the beach with the trophy girl.
Hmmmmmmm...................

Just some recent sightings, Take Care!

Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 23:08:09 -0500
From: Joe & Toni Artwell <tjf26@gte.net>
Subject: Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"? ('68 
Cutlass)

> You may have a short in the electrical system.
> To check this, disconnect the postive terminal and hook up a test light
> between the cable and battery terminal.
> If everything is OK the light should not come on. Usually when you open the
> door the light should come on just like your dome light would.
> If the test light is on and everything in the car is off, you have short
> somewhere in the system.
> 
> Lou Principe
> 69 442 W-30
As stated by Lou, this is a good way to find a short in your electical
system. I have done something similar to this only useing a door buzzer
instead of a light. To narrow it down even further, start pulling fuses
until the light goes out. This will at least give you an idea where to
look.
                             Joe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 23:17:28 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: HP rating Question

TheBlue67@aol.com wrote:
> 
> what is the horsepower rating of a stock 67 330 4bbl Vs. a stock 71 350
> 4bbl???

330       350
- ------    ------
10.25:1   10.25:1
320 hp    310 hp

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***************************
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 V-8 4 bbl)
1975 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (250 I-6 1 bbl)
1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (350 V-8 2 bbl)
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4 bbl)
*******************************************
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 23:09:09 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

Bob,

My SX has been in the same situation yours is in, but after 260,000 miles
(140,000 on the original 455, 120,000 on a 350 replacement engine) it has been
retired and is waiting on it's trip into the garage for a full makeover.
Since it's already too far gone for a restoration and too much has been done
that negates that possibility, I'll be doing some modifying for an overall
street machine.  Besides, it's an early SX that came with the 2G and 2.56 rear
gear.

I bought it from the dealer my mother worked for in 1978 and drove it through
high school, the military, and my first marriage.  It's last trip was just
before I got married to Chelsea and replaced it with the Starfire GT.  It
almost blends in out in the back yard with the Tyvek cover on it amidst all
the snow.......

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 23:13:44 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"? ('68 
Cutlass)

thats a great idea using a buzzer...thanks, I think i will try that next
time...Harry

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 23:18:44 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: HP rating Question

I think71 350 4 barrel has 8.5:1 compression so the hp is 180 net and 240
gross..matt is right on the 67 motor

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 22:22:32 -0600
From: "Joe Centanni" <jacentan@crown.icongrp.com>
Subject: History of the 80's

Anyone come up w/ any info on the 80's H/O's or 442's...Haven't gotten
replys from hurst or Olds yet   but there is so little material available
that I"m trying to dig it up.
	Later
	jeremy 87 442

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 22:23:54 -0600
From: "Joe Centanni" <jacentan@crown.icongrp.com>
Subject: Fw: Lightning Rods

- ----------
> From: Joe Centanni <jacentan@crown.icongrp.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebuct.ns.ca
> Subject: Lightning Rods
> Date: Sunday, January 10, 1999 10:20 PM
> 
> Got a set in my 87 442 and they relieve stress immensely when you blow'em
> away in second*L*........TOo damncold too have any real fun though
> especially w/ the 2 ft of snow everywhere............Either my brakes are
> screwewd again(anyone else have trouble w/ their brakes on 80's Gbody's) 
> or there's so much ice built up it was pulling real bad!..Thats after new
> MC ,hoses , calipers , pads and rotors and bleeding by me and my
mechanic! 
>  Wondering if my proportioning valve is dead?.......love the car but the
> brakes are causing me hell
> Any suggestions let me know?
> 		Later	
> 		Jeremy 87 442

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 23:20:05 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: HP rating Question

Matts hp 350 figure is from 1970, I am sure he knows that..he just read your ?
wrong   Harry

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 23:34:31 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

Robert Barry wrote:
> 
> I was just wondering which route people here have taken with their
> Cutlasses; it seems you have to make a choice either to make your ride like
> new, and restrict the driving due to the wear and tear and dirt and grime
> that undo the careful restoration, or leave it pretty rough and enjoy
> driving it without worries under any kind of conditions.
> 
> Which route have you chosen, and what tradeoffs/drawbacks have you 
experienced?

Well, I guess I can safely say that my '73 Cutlass was the most fun car
I've ever driven in the snow. Nice loose steering wheel, very light gas
pedal, made for some great perpendicular driving on a few occasions. Let
me tell you, facing forward in your car, but watching trees go by is way
fun. I could do whatever I wanted with that car in the snow, it didn't
even have posi.

but.....

This was back when I was a kid (hell, i'm 19 now! :-] ). This was back
before I realized what a mistake I had been making all this time. This
was back before it hit me that I had never seen another car like mine
and that I should take all the time, effort, and bullsh*t to restore it.
BTW-MY CAR STILL ISN'T DONE YET!!! And I guess it's also safe to say
that that winter driving didn't help the cancer problem too much. But
after it is fully restored and perfect, it will never see the white sh*t
again.

But, I'm okay with that, i can always find some other beater to romp in
the snow with. And considering what has happened here in the recent
past, I think it may be a vehicle in which all 4 wheels can turn at once
if I will it so.

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***************************
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 V-8 4 bbl)
1975 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (250 I-6 1 bbl)
1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (350 V-8 2 bbl)
1983 Ch*vrolet C*price (305 V-8 4 bbl)
*******************************************
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 23:32:16 -0500
From: "Shpud" <shpud@hotmail.com>
Subject: Other HP questions.

What was the hp rating for a '67 425 with a 2bbl? Also what kind of 
a change would one see if they swapped a 4bbl on instead? Can 
anyone tell me anything pertinent to upping the performance of the 
425?
My car is covered with snow right now and i'm trying to figure out 
what exactly i should do with it in the spring. Any ideas? The 
engine is purely stock right now.

Spruce
- ----------------------------------------------------
If you have ICQ my ICQ# is 1206779
If you don't have ICQ you can page me through:
* My Communication Center: http://wwp.mirabilis.com/1206779 (go there and try 
it!)
* Or you can send me e-mail to 1206779@pager.mirabilis.com
- ----------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 22:33:03 -0600
From: "Paul D. Pate" <rocket455@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

Well, my 70 Cutlass S was used for daily transportation from 1971 to 1985 by
my parents (second owners) and by me from the time I got my drivers license
(1985) until 1993.  By that time, the car was in dire need of a restoration,
therefore I officially "retired" it from daily useage.  The car is now in
storage anxiously waiting to be resurrected.  My point is that a car can
only be used for so long on a daily basis before the ravages of constant use
take its toll.  Now that I am out of school, have a real job, and have a
house, I will now be able bring the car back to its former beauty.  From now
on it will only see an occasional car show or a sunny day.  I am going to
leave the day to day stuff to my Ch*vy (hey, parts are a dime a dozen!)

Just my thoughts!


-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 23:40:55 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: 84 Cutlass on E-Bay

There is an 84 Cutlass on e-bay with no reserve and it's $250 with only 20
hours left! Looks pretty good, too.

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=55075606

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 23:49:32 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: how do remove crome molding?

Ramrod442@aol.com wrote:
> 
> i have a 1965 olds vista cruzer and the lip for the back side glass is rusted
> out.how do i get the crome molding off to remove the glass?

Not sure about your 65 but on the 72 the chrome trim is held on by some
clips that work like windshield molding clips. It's hard to explain how
they attatch.  They hold the trim in place by it's outer edge.  Once you
find a clip you pull it away from the edge of the molding.  (I.E. if
you're working on the lower piece of chrome you pull the clip "up".) 
That should release the chrome.  Since it's pretty rusty some of the
clips will probably break.  You might find replacement clips at a
fastner shop. (I did.)  They're unique and not the same as the clips
that hold the windshield trim.     

Napa, Bumper-to-Bumper, and similar stores carry a special tool to
remove windshield molding, it's well worth the $10.  You slide it along
between the glass and the molding and when you catch a clip you can pop
it loose.  The trim can be removed with a long slender screwdriver but
you're more likely to bend the chrome or crack the glass that way. 

Good luck.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser 
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 00:04:53 -0500
From: "R. Grant" <kgrant442@home.com>
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

- -----Original Message-----
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: January 10, 1999 10:58 PM
Subject: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?


>I was wondering how many people on this list use their old Cutlasses for
>daily-drivers? I took my SX to help my friends move into their new house,
>about 1 1/2 hours north, in a slushy rain, and enjoyed the whole drive.
>
>Now, I've got a fresh quarter panel lined up, and will probably have it, as
>well as the other side and the trunk, redone this summer, after which an
>hour trip through slush will be out of the question.
>
>I was just wondering which route people here have taken with their
>Cutlasses; it seems you have to make a choice either to make your ride like
>new, and restrict the driving due to the wear and tear and dirt and grime
>that undo the careful restoration, or leave it pretty rough and enjoy
>driving it without worries under any kind of conditions.
>
>Which route have you chosen, and what tradeoffs/drawbacks have you
experienced?
>
>Bob Barry
>'69 Toronado (garage queen)
>'70 Cutlass Supreme SX (rough daily driver)

My Cutlass was just a everyday driver but in needed a paint  job. My friend
was to do a 400$ job his cost, then we got carried away ended costing 1500$
his cost. Now can never keep it clean I have to watch were I park it. Now
with the edelbrock rpm intake will not run right in the cold
has to be put away around Oct. Soon as the wether changes goes through more
gas (need new carb)
I never had it set up right next spring have to find a better Mech.
Now with the new 3.73 rear need to install a OD Trans
Then next spring (2000) need new engine 350 as the little 307 is just not up
to snuff.
It just never ends the wife is ready to hang me for comming home with a
Lightning Rod shifter, and I told her the tranie was going to cost 1500$ to
put in.
Oh well just my .02$

Kevin Grant
80 Cutlass Supreme
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 21:23:29 PST
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: [Speaker Location]

Hi,

I recommend tweeter and midranges in front.  You can use original 
speaker locations, foot kicker panels, or lower door (I like least) and 
pumping bass for rear.

I have seen custom installations of speakers:  bazooka style under the 
front seats and 4x10's or 6x9's in the bottom part of the rear seat (in 
the area behind your calves if your sitting down)in convertibles.  I 
used to have a '72 hardtop and I don't remember it having too much room 
in the rear side panels for speakers.  It would seem ok to place the 
speakers under the seat it.  The only problem I can maybe forsee is the 
back seat passengers would not get the full effect of the speakers.  
But, bass would be ok.  You might try putting a pair in 6x9 speaker 
boxes and trying different locations. Woofers, you may put in back 
recesses of rear seat.  I do not know how much clearence you have.

Personally, I don't like the cars that go boom.  I like crisp clean 
sound quality with minimal boom.

Just my $.02,

Chris Rivier
Austin,TX
'66 Delta 88...The BEAST is BACK!
'88 Festiva...ZIPPY 166K LAWN ORNAMENT!


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 00:24:22 EST
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: HP rating Question

In a message dated 99-01-10 22:51:42 EST, you write:

<< what is the horsepower rating of a stock 67 330 4bbl Vs. a stock 71 350
 4bbl???
 
 Thanks
 Brent 
 1967 Cutlass Convertible
  >>
67 330 = 320hp w/4bbl
71 350 = 260hp w/4bbl
70 350 = 325hp w/4bbl and outside air induction
W MACHINES (Mark Prince)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 00:16:10 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 350 Heads on a 330 (or Vice-Versa)

Just want to confirm that this is an okay swap (not that I doubt Joe P.,
since he is one of the most knowledgeable guys on the list).  I had gotten
the impression (probably wrong) that 330's had the 45 degree cam bank angle
and 350's are all the more common 39 degree angle and that swapping heads
from one CBA engine to the other would lead to some geometry problems in
the valvetrain and possibly pushrods rubbing.  Where did I go wrong?  Are
330's 39 degree CBA motors or is the CBA difference not of consequence when
swapping heads?

Dave Rench
_______

DOH!  (sound of slapping forehead)

I _always_ forget about that!  Good call, Dave.  There might have been some
67 330 blocks with 39 deg CBA (factory parts book two different kinds of 67
330 blocks, for example), but as you correctly point out, most if not all
were 45 degree.  This effects two things when interchanging blocks/heads,
the pushrod length and the pushrod clearance in its hole in the head.  In
the case of the former (pushrod length), use the pushrods and lifters which
are correct for the _block_ you are using.  Note:  The parts book actually
lists three different pushrod lengths for the 330; 8 5/16", 8 21/64" and 8
23/64".  All 350s use a pushrod length of 8 17/64".    In the case of the
clearance in the pushrod hole in the head (which is the rubbing you ask
about), the easy solution is to slightly enlarge the holes in the head to
provide greater clearance.

Interesting note about pushrod length vs. CBA.  In all cases (big block as
well as small block), the 45 degree motors use longer pushrods than the 39
degree motors.  Since the head castings and rocker arms are the same, I
would have assumed that the narrower CBA, which puts the lifters closer to
vertical, would require the longer pushrods.  Yes, the lifters are the same
length in both cases.  Am I wrong; is the 39 or 45 deg CBA not the angle
from _vertical_?

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 01:02:22 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: HP rating Question

RARE73OLDS@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I think71 350 4 barrel has 8.5:1 compression so the hp is 180 net and 240
> gross..matt is right on the 67 motor
>
> Matts hp 350 figure is from 1970, I am sure he knows that..he just read your 
?
> wrong   Harry

Uhhhhhhhhhh......oh yeah. Oops. My bad. Lousy non-working beer-filled
college brain. What I meant was is that the 71 350 4bbl motor is listed
at 260 hp with 8.5:1 compression. Thank you Harry for pointing that out.
Me and my lousy confidence always thinks that I'm never wrong. Oh well,
I suck!!!!!

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***************************
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 V-8 4 bbl)
1975 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (250 I-6 1 bbl)
1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (350 V-8 2 bbl)
*******************************************
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 01:07:45 -0500
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Other HP questions.

Shpud wrote:
> 
> What was the hp rating for a '67 425 with a 2bbl? Also what kind of

300hp

> a change would one see if they swapped a 4bbl on instead? Can
> anyone tell me anything pertinent to upping the performance of the
> 425?

lets see, 425/4bbl/10.25:1=365hp
          425/4bbl/10.50:1=385hp


- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***************************
1973 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme (350 V-8 4 bbl)
1975 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (250 I-6 1 bbl)
1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass S (350 V-8 2 bbl)
*******************************************
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 00:54:36 -0600 (CST)
From: Kimberly Ann Wandrey <kaw0006@jove.acs.unt.edu>
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

Hi Everyone!

I am in the process of beginning Junior's (my '72 Cutlass Supreme)
restoration. Right now Junior is far from perfection, but someday he will
be like showroom quality condition. For me it is one baby step at a time,
I am in Graduate School and paying my own way, so $$$ is tied up there. I
am beginning the search for a daily driver so I can retire Junior from
these crazy Texas highways. 

Right now I am getting ideas on pricing and what needs to be done to
Junior (but are we ever truly finished restoring a car?) to get him back
to perfection. :) 

As for a daily driver, I want a "war" vehicle that I dont give a $#$#
about. It has to be quick and responsive (to avoid the idiots), big (to 
knock the morons out of my way ;) ) and dependable. Hmmmm....sounds like
an Olds to me! ;) 

Kim & Junior ('72 Cutlass Supreme)
Dallas, Texas
Member OCA & NTOC

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 00:53:21 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

Beater or restored?  Both d@mn it!  I've put too many cars together from
the ground up to worry about it.  I'm notorious for running my cars hard
(have
ripped out the welds in a motor mount ~twice~ with just a 2.5L 4cyl) but
the way I figure it is that there's not much I can't fix.  Give me a good
chance
to upgrade anyway, "well since that rearend snapped in half, might as well
put a 9" in it".  I'm also not one to care for originality, I go more for
performance.  I will never restore a car, that's why I tend towards base
models (cheaper and never have to hear crap about cutting a car up).  I
don't
have the luxury to own more than 2 cars so my wife drives the cutlass (she
doesn't put many miles on it like I would) to the store and such and I have
my truck for work.  Doesn't matter much since I don't even have a garage.
My philosiphy (and bank account) is to drive the car as I fix it up and by
the time it's all fixed up I'll want to go a new direction with it anyway.
So
I guess I would fall under the beater category.  If I had the money to
afford
a third car I would probably take that money to pay for gas so I could drive
my 68 every day and fix it the way I want it.

"Drive it like you stole it!"
Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
72 Cutlass S (RIP)
68 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 01:19:45 -0600 (CST)
From: blue442@webtv.net
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

Hello party people,

My 68 442 is not perfect, but it's only gonna get better.  

I buy my daily drivers at abandoned vehicle auctions.  I first bought a
$250 Cavalier, an 84 model.  Right now I drive a police issue Diplomat.
It has cold air, runs well, and cost only $125.  I don't feel badly
about trying Blues Brothers type stunts in it either.

The 442 hibernates in the insulated garage. :-)

Jeff Carter
blue442@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 01:20:13 -0600
From: <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Need Nodular small-block crank.

Hey everyone,

	I am looking for a nodular small block crank to replace the one I
trashed. The machine shop tells me it will turn to .030 under ok, but I
thought I would attempt to find another one first. I need one that has
been turned no more than .010 under and need to be able to ship to
Dallas.

Please email me privately. shang@connect.net

Thanks

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme
.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 06:27:40 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '70 4-4-2 For Sale

Not on the list; respond to ainlet@seaside.net if interested.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"P. &N. Bottomley" <ainlet@seaside.net>
Subject: olds for sale

1970 442 w30 for sale.car has 4 speed. engine,front fenders,
bumpers,removed .all there except red inner fenders air cleaner,air box &
exhaust system. car in dry storage on vancouver island canada e mail is
ainlet@seaside.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 23:20:29 -0800
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Misc Parts for Sale  67-72

I forgot I have the following - nice lower tailight assemblies for a '67
CS.  Good rear bumper core '67 Cutlass, non-backup lense type.  '72
windshield chrome piece that covers the wipers (windshield-under hood edge
piece).  Standard rearview mirror, drivers side for '67 Cutlass.  '67, 70 &
72 Cutlass scripts - nice condition all.

California parts - make offers privately to e-mail address below (I'm
getting nagged about having stuff laying around again!!)

Lisa Madsen
Anaheim, CA

'66 Toronado, '67 Delta 88 Custom, '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible,  '72
Vista Cruiser, '80 GMC 1/2 Ton

Please E-Mail me at-----:  Lisa@hotglass.com
My Web-Page-----:  http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
Subscribe To : Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile Bulletin Board Mailing List:
Lisa's Oldsmobile FREE Banner Exchange
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/banners/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 07:02:22 -0500 (EST)
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

Bob

I have a '72 Cutlass Supreme Convertible.  Bought it about 10 years ago.
About 130 miles on her.  Florida car.  She was in decent shape.  Some rust
in the quarters, a ding here and there, top getting worn out etc. Over the
years I've driven her coast-to-coast a couple of times as well as plenty of
local miles.  I live in Vermont and have always parked her for the winter.

After I got her the engine blew.  Since then I've made all sorts of
modifications to her, tranny, suspension, rear gears etc.  Basic stuff.
About 4-5 years ago I realized was at the end of the patching together
phase and that I needed to do some down to the frame restoration.

Well that project has grown and I hope to be done this summer.  Aside from
comprehensive body restoration and paint the list of modifications and
restorations is long and includes an EFI 425 with the new Edelbrock heads.
However, this project has not been meticulous restoration.  I have all
sorts of after market products on her and I've made some changes to the
exterior and interior.

But the overall concept remains: build a good coast-to-coast daily driver
and park her in the winter weather.  I've put a lot of time & $$$ into the
project and I intend to put a lot of miles on her.

My philosophy:  build/repair 'em and the drive 'em (with the exception of
heavy winter stuff... up here if we get bored on Sat nights we go out in
the driveway and watch the salt at work).

In some ways I'm nostalgic for a road-worthy beater where the attention is
mainly on the suspension and drive train.  So I have another car in my
sights... but that's another story.

So I don't think the answer to your question is either/or.  You can
build/repair her and then drive most of the year.

Some folks like to strive for a perfect restoration.  If that's case I can
see limited driving and trailer hauling as the main mode of use.  But
that's not me.

Basically it comes down to what floats your boat (no offense meant to Toro
owners ;).

If, after reading all the replies and thinking about it, you're still
unsure about what you want to do e-mail me and I show you a foolproof way
to find out.

hope this has helped,

jp


>I was wondering how many people on this list
>use their old Cutlasses for daily-drivers?

>I was just wondering which route people here
>have taken with their Cutlasses; it seems you have
>to make a choice either to make your ride like
>new, and restrict the driving due to the wear and
>tear and dirt and grime that undo the careful restoration,
>or leave it pretty rough and enjoy driving it without worries
>under any kind of conditions.
>
>Which route have you chosen, and what tradeoffs/drawbacks
>have you experienced?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 07:26:07 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: HP rating Question

Hey Matts hp figures are right now on the 71 4barrel and mine was wrong
240gross)(160net)is the 2 barrel and (260 gross)(180net-i got that part right
at least)is the 4 barrel. Too much beer on the brain left over from New Years,
from this father of 5. Harry

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 07:54:18 -0500
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

List,
        My 67' Cutlass is now my
daily driver. 350-TH400......
Now if this car was a 442 I may
not drive it every day. If it was a
intact w30 car I may not start it
except for shows......

"real cars have the ignition in the dash"


The General       :o{)}

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 05:01:36 -0800 (PST)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

    I use my '70 Cutlass 'S' as a daily driver for about 9-10 months
of the year.  I bought it bone stock in the spring of '96 with 65,000
grandma miles on it, and have since raised the numbers to just over
90,000.  I have used it for hauling camping gear into the mountains in
Vermont, as a beach buggy on the coast of Rhode Island, and I've
helped my buddies move into their apartment with it.  This was before
I did anything to it.  I have since put a set of Cragar rims on it,
added a nice Alpine stereo system (mounted under dash), and got a new
$3000 paint job, which included new weatherstripping for the entire
car.  The only thing that I do different now is that I sacrafice
parking close to the entrance at anywhere that I go, so that some old
fat lady in a minivan doesn't bust her door into me(no offense to
those of you who are fat, but if you own a minivan, no regrets). 
Aside from that, I do pretty much the same as I always have (although
I don't put stuff on the hood anymore).  I'm also planning on redoing
the interior and suspension, and getting a nice set of tires, not to
mention the drivetrain mods that I'm planning (4bbl 650cfm edelbrock
carb, edelbrock performer intake, duals w/dynomax super turbo
mufflers, 3.23 anti-spin rear).  As you can see, I'm not doing a
concourse resto, but I'm not keeping it as a 'beater'.  Basically what
I'm saying is, fix it up to the point that you're happy with it, then
drive it.  So far, I have no regrets, the compliments I get make it
very worthwhile.  I don't go more than a few days without somebody
saying 'hey, nice car', or 'nice Bu*ck', or 'nice ch*velle', or 'hey
is that one of them Oldses with a 442 in it?' Hey, whatever they say,
even if they have no clue what they're talking about, they're saying
that they like it.  Hell, even if nobody ever said anything, I love my
Olds.  By the way, the only reason that I drive it only 9-10 months of
the year is that I live in Massachusetts, and the way they salt the
roads around here, cars don't last more than a few years.

Enjoy Your Olds!
Stefan
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
70cutlass$beer.com


- ---Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu> wrote:
>
> I was wondering how many people on this list use their old Cutlasses
for
> daily-drivers?
<SNIP>
Which route have you chosen, and what tradeoffs/drawbacks have you
experienced?
<SNIP>
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 08:56:59 -0500
From: Mark Ivey <mivey@mail.rapid.com>
Subject: Re: the diff between stock 307/HO 307

Master Costanzo wrote:
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> Mark
> there are not alot of big differences in the standard code Y -307 and the
> code
> 9 -307
> code 9 is the HO . A big difference in the engines is in the machining
> tolerences , the HO
> has very tight machining tolerences . and also the HO engine has a bigger
> cam
> and it's also
> a roller cam .
> 
> Didn't all 307's have roller cam starting in 85?  This is true, yes?
> 
> Ray Costanzo
> 87 409 Cutlass
> 84 Calais
> costanzo@netcarrier.com
> http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo
> 
> The trans. in the cars with the HO engine (442s) have a shift kit in it also
> .
> 
> mark
> 87 442
> 71 cutlass s
> 68 442 convertible , someday

Ray,

	Thanks for the info everybody.  It helped me alot.  I don't know if it
started in 85 but my 85 Cutlass Supreme has a roller cam.  The reason
why I asked the diff is I'm looking for some ways to make my Olds catch
a little more speed.  I can't find a roller cam for a 307 anywhere. 
Does anybody know of a company that makes roller cam's for a 307?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 09:35:03 -0500
From: Mark Ivey <mivey@mail.rapid.com>
Subject: Re: 9 motors again

Joe Centanni wrote:
> 
> I've emailed both Hurst and GM(oldsmobile of course) to see if hopefully
> they will get read by someone who could help us in our quest for
> knowledge.................Damn I"ve started something haven't I or I"m just
> crazy(go with crazy)
>                 Later
>                 Jeremy 87 442


Joe,

	Thanks for the help.  If so, you're not the only one who is CRAZY.  I
was suprised to the feedback I got from my question.  I have already
started to collect parts to make it catch more speed, 3:73 gears.  I
will try to find some of the parts mentioned in the responses I have
recieved.  Thanks again for the help.

Mark 85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 09:45:12 -0800
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

  I drive an old Olds every day.  The only common thread is the big block
under the hood.  I much prefer using the cars daily because they always draw
attention, have some personality, I won't have one parked next to me when I
exit the Piggly-wiggly, they don'y depreciate, I'm not making car payments,
and because I wanna.  The only problems I have encountered are centered
around parking.  I don't so much park a 98 as I sorta slip it.  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 07:32:03 -0800
From: Jim Bauman <jbauman@earthlink.net>
Subject: Swapping a 425 for a 455 

Hi Gang,

Well, the 425 in my daughter's '65 98 finally gave it up, so I'm
in need of a replacement.  Eventually I'll rebuild the 425 and put
it back in the car, but in the meantime, the path of least resistance
seems to be a 455 -- they're available locally (that's a BIG plus)
and relatively cheap.

So my question is this: will the turbo 400 transmission that I currently
have bolt directly to a 455 (say a pre-1970 version)?  How about the
exhaust manifold and other accesories, like power steering pump,
alternator, AC, etc.?

If it turns out to be more trouble than it's worth, the car may just
sit there for a while. Sheesh.

Thanks,

Jim Bauman

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 10:39:50 EST
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: RE: Disc brake conversion/ Vacuum pump

MASTER POWER MAKES AN ELECTRIC VACC PUMP BUT ITS $$. I THINK AROUND 250~300

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 10:43:04 EST
From: AGUY4RUMLI@aol.com
Subject: Re: A different disc brake Q

I did this conversion on a 72cutlass and my 15'' auto drag centerlines rims
still fit 
<<
I'm having trouble getting the lower ball joint to seat against the spindle.
I upgraded to a caprice spindle to handle 12" discs and am using a PST lower
ball joint, a stock replacement item for my '85 Cutlass.  Also, I'm using
Hotchkis upper A-arms, and their instructions never mentioned using a
different ball joint.

Anyone have suggestions on pressing those items together?

One other item, will 15" rims clear the 12" rotor and caliper setup?  I am
waiting for ARE to come out with 16" Torque thrusts, but will need something
in the meantime to get it rolling.
>>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 10:45:01 -0800
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Swapping a 425 for a 455 

Jim, They are the same castings so there is no reason you would have any
difficulty with the accessories.  The bell housin patterns are also common,
so no problems there.  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 10:56:06 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Swapping a 425 for a 455

So my question is this: will the turbo 400 transmission that I currently
have bolt directly to a 455 (say a pre-1970 version)?  How about the
exhaust manifold and other accesories, like power steering pump,
alternator, AC, etc.?
______

Jim, this is one of the easiest swaps going.  The motors are externally
idenical and virtually all bolt patterns are the same with a couple of
important differences.  The 425 (as with all 67 and earlier Olds motors)
uses the early-style crankshaft bolt pattern, while the 455 (and all 68-up
motors) uses the later patern.  You'll need the correct 68-up flexplate for
the 455.  The TH400 will bolt up, as will the converter.

You'll want to use the harmonic balancer that goes with the 455, but all
the 425 pulleys and accessory brackets should bolt right up.  Use the water
pump that goes with the 425 as well.  Also, while the later divided exhaust
manifolds will flow a little better, you'll want to use the original 425
manifolds to allow them to mate up to the existing exhaust system.
Original starter will bolt right up.  Use the original 425 motor mounts
also.

The only other thing to be aware of is the intake and carb.  If the 455 is
a long block, then simply swap the intake and carb from the 425 and
everything will work.  I assume you've got the 4GC 4bbl carb.  If you want
to go to the later Q-jet, you'll need to retain the 455's spreadbore
intake, however you'll likely need to do a little fabricating to get the
throttle rod to match up with the Q-jet.  Also, if the 455 comes with a
distributor, you can either retain it or swap in the one from the 425 (they
will physically interchange).  If you choose to go HEI then you'll want to
convert to an internally-regulated alternator at this time also.

Note that the above comments apply to a non-Toro 455.  If you end up
getting a 455 from a Toro, in addition to those comments above, it will
have a different oil pan (which should still clear the frame) and a
different oil filter adapter (which will need to be changed for the one off
the 425).  Also, if the Toro motor is a junkyard motor, you'll need to
remove the front motor mount and install the 425's two side mounts instead.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 08:39:56 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Speaker Location]

> oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:
> I was wondering what is the best speaker direction on a 72 442
convertible?
> The factory 6x9 speakers were facing towards the trunk. With the top
down
> it was hard to hear the speakers. I know have Kenwood 210W speakers
and I
> was wondering would it be better to face them towards the rear seat
or face
> towards the trunk(like it was originally). Which would produce the
better
> sound, both with the top up and down. Has anyone experimented with
this?
> 
> Pettrix@prodigy.net

I have 2 6X9's in the back of my Olds. They mount right on the rear
deck and are pointing straight up at the rear window. I think that
this setup really helps. I can get bass out of those things almost
like a sub in the trunk! I also have a 175 Watt amp running the two.

Del

==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 11:55:32 -0500
From: Brian Kerr <bkerr@golden.net>
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

Well Bob, I got the Cutlass convertible on the road in Sept, and put it into
hibernation Nov 1. When I pull it out again on May 1, I will use it to do alot 
of
the 'fun' driving... weekends, vacations, nice sunny 'top down' days etc. It 
will
never see any slush or snow, and considering how it drove on pavement after a
summer rain... just cant keep those rear tires hooked up on corners ya know. 
Then
again, I put 2 years into that car, with a complete strip, body off restoration
etc. I planned to make a 25 year car out of it. After our wedding in August, we
drove away from the church in it, and I hope my son (to arrive in May) will 
want to
do the same at his wedding someday!


Brian Kerr
69 Cutlass Conv
455 powered

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 11:59:51 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Interior color Q

In a message dated 1/10/99 10:52:17 PM Eastern Standard Time,
TheBlue67@aol.com writes:

<< just how rare is the saffron yellow interior for 67?? i only recall seeing
a
 couple of cars with this color and i know of a parts car for sale with this
 color. i think this color would look cool inside my crystal blue 67
 convertible.
 
 so how rare is it?? >>

wow, thats pretty neat!my dad has 2 67 442s.  one is a saffron yellow/saffron
yellow convertible, and the other one is a crystal blue/crystal blue hardtop.
in my opinion, i dont really think the yellow would look too good with the
crystal blue exterior.  that yellow gets unbelievable attention and i think it
would be sorta loud in a blue car.  the crystal blue looks awesome, however!!
theres just something about the way the color just blends into the inside of
the car.  but thats just my opinion, which actually doesnt mean a whole
lot....:-)   take care,
jeremy
BIGJERMES@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 11:19:48 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"? ('68 
Cutlass)

Probably too simplistic, but the battery you bought may not have been fully 
charged. Car having not been run for a couple weeks.......

Don't forget everyone's tips, but first try just recharging the battery.

roger 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 10:24:05 -0700
From: schnehe@juno.com (Mark A Janda)
Subject: RE: Other HP Questions

I did just that.  I have a 67 425 w/ 2bbl and I got a stock carb and
manifold off of a 69 455.  I don't know the specs on how much horsepower,
but it really seemed to add a lot of power, especially at high RPMs.  Now
that I'm all done, I think if I did it again, I would use a high
performance aftermarket carb and manifold.  A little more spendy, but
probably worth it.  That's the next project.  The stock carb did add
quite a bit though.

Regards,

Mark J.
67 Delta 88 w/425

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 10:23:08 -0700
From: schnehe@juno.com (Mark A Janda)
Subject: Dual Exhaust for 67 425

I have a 67 Delta 88 w/ a 425.  It has single exhaust.  I would like to
change it over to dual exhaust, but the right side manifold has two
outlets.  Do I need to find a different manifold, and if so, what is the
type or casting number to look for?   Is there any way to still use the
current manifold?   What about headers?  What do you think?  Please help
out an Olds newcomer.

Mark J.
67 Delta 88 w/425

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 12:33:29 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"? ('68 
Cutlass)

Good idea! I did confirm there's a short somewhere. I may try this when I
get some time.

Thanks,


>> You may have a short in the electrical system.
>> To check this, disconnect the postive terminal and hook up a test light
>> between the cable and battery terminal.
>> If everything is OK the light should not come on. Usually when you open the
>> door the light should come on just like your dome light would.
>> If the test light is on and everything in the car is off, you have short
>> somewhere in the system.
>> 
>> Lou Principe
>> 69 442 W-30
>As stated by Lou, this is a good way to find a short in your electical
>system. I have done something similar to this only useing a door buzzer
>instead of a light. To narrow it down even further, start pulling fuses
>until the light goes out. This will at least give you an idea where to
>look.
>                             Joe
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 12:50:53 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Dual Exhaust for 67 425

Mark,

RH manifold can be capped as is common on small block Cutlasses with no ill
effects.  The headache on adding dual exhausts to '65-'70 full size cars is
the LH side.  Dual exhaust manifolds are hard to come by for the LH side.
The Cutlass manifolds will not work due to the frame design and the rear
mounted steering linkage.  There is also an issue regarding pipe clearance
with the transmission selector lever.  Some cars got a curved shaft that
clears the pipe, most did not.

Full sizers with duals from the factory were limited to '65-'67 cars with
the Starfire engine (standard in Starfire, optional on 88 and 98), and '68
to '70 Delta 88s with the 390 horse Police engine (available to civilians as
the "W-33" option).

Regards,
Fred
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark A Janda <schnehe@juno.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, January 11, 1999 12:32 PM
Subject: Dual Exhaust for 67 425


>I have a 67 Delta 88 w/ a 425.  It has single exhaust.  I would like to
>change it over to dual exhaust, but the right side manifold has two
>outlets.  Do I need to find a different manifold, and if so, what is the
>type or casting number to look for?   Is there any way to still use the
>current manifold?   What about headers?  What do you think?  Please help
>out an Olds newcomer.
>
>Mark J.
>67 Delta 88 w/425
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 12:54:31 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Beater vs Restore

Well, Bob, since my Olds of choice seems to always have a ragtop
attached I would probably go with the better than average resto driven
daily.  Of course if I had a 4 speed and a posi in a hardtop I would
consider non-salt days the rest of the year also.  As you know, my
Oldsmobiles sit inside while my Lincoln daily runners sit outside.  Them
I can replace rather easily and do as they die after 150-200,000 miles
or so.  Summer time it's Cutlass/GS rag top time.  Just have to get
around to putting them in the condition necessary to go on a daily
basis.  Hopefully this will happen this year.  We shall see.  :)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 13:14:03 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Parts

Is that the two piece chrome.
I may have some of the chrome pieces, which you could apply to the lenses
from fusicks.

Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454




- ----------
> From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Parts
> Date: Tuesday, January 05, 1999 12:46 AM
> 
> I would like to find 68 442 tail light lenses.
> 
> Fusick has them  but without the chrome trim.
> 
> 
> 
> Any input??????
> 
> 
> Thanks
> 
> 
> Vinny
> 62 Starfire
> 68 Hurst/Olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 12:18:19 -0600
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Setup 85 Cutlass 307 CCC Carb

Does anyone have a conversion or a way of setting up a Q-Jet in the newer GM
idea of using degrees instead of inches?

Does anyone have a carb part number for a Q-Jet on a 1976 350?  I need a
part number to check numbers on my 76 Service Manual.

I am trying to get mine set perfectly, but in 76 in inches I don't know what
carb is for a 260, 350 or 455, and for the 85 book, it is all in degrees,
and I don't have anything to measure degrees with!  Help!

Thanks!
Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 13:22:11 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: 350 Heads on a 330 (or Vice-Versa)

Joe,

You've got it right, the lifters are 90 degrees apart --from each other-- in
the 45 degree CBA engines and 78 degrees in the 39 degree CBA blocks.  I've
always wanted to know why they changed, did they find something out that was a
potential problem?

The 45 degree CBA would put the top of the lifter slightly farther away from
the pushrod end of the rocker, since it's theoretically laying over a little
more.  So you come up with the difference of 3/64ths in the 330's; and the
350's are 3/64ths shorter than the smallest 330 pushrod.  I can't say this for
sure, but remember that the original 330's (#1 heads) had a rail-type rocker
system that might account for one of those lengths and two are 1/64th apart --
could it be that the shortest one was for the 39 degree CBA, the next was for
the rail-type rockers and the longest was for the 45 degree CBA?  I know, I'm
full of it.......:-)

For informational purposes, Dave Smith lists only one pushrod for the 330's in
stock replacement, and it has it listed as "330-4B" (anyone know if this is a
block ID casting?) and the length is 8.334".  In contrast, the one he lists
for the 350-403 engines are listed as 8.234".  To prove out that the 45 CBA
blocks need longer pushrods, he lists the 425 stock pushrods as 9.594" and the
455's as 9.547.  I know there are different configurations of the 425's, but
I'll bet Dave would know which one you need if you called for some with the
particular block you have.  And to complicate things, the Batten heads require
an even longer pushrod.

Well, I'll shut up for now.  Say it again, I'm full of it................:-)

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 13:27:03 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Setup 85 Cutlass 307 CCC Carb

In a message dated 1/11/99 10:20:45 AM Pacific Standard Time, Thomas_Martin-
WLTM07@css.mot.com writes:

<< Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com >>

     Well, you need the casting number, I've got that..no clue if GM's part #
is the same thing:   heres one of about 20!!! 17053875..thats a federal
emissions carb, not CA. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 12:26:43 -0600
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Bad Coil (was : Water in gas)

In my 80 Turbo Trans AM I have a problem, ( I know, not olds, but may be
related...)  When I mash to go pedal (hot or cold) I get some stumble and/or
backfire at WOT.  But when I am driving normal, no problems, even mileage if
16-18 mpg.  I swapped engines (was convenient at the time) from the 455 to a
400.  Intake (performer), heads (stock 455 #15, light porting) carb
(performer 750), and distributor (stock ESC for Turbo) all stayed the same.
Problem remains.  I pulled a trailer through the Rockies and still no
problem, but under any load that see's near WOT, backfire.  Timing was
factory set, carb was jetted to Edelbrocks specs for altitude (1407, 750 CFM
AFB).

I was starting to suspect ignition, is this a coil symptom?  Coil is stock
HEI, as is the ESC distributor module.  All connections are clean.

I would appreciate any help on this, it has driven me nuts!

BTW, I am keeping my eye out for a 350 or 403 to replace my 350 with
(rebuildable is fine), it needs a short block rebuild, and I just don't have
time to keep car off road that long.  SMW or WMW are fine.  This is stock
daily driver car, 2.14's, etc.

Thanks!
Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1713
*********************************

