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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1727


oldsmobile-digest     Thursday, January 21 1999     Volume 01 : Number 1727



RE: Plastic Gauge Lenses -- How to Polish
Parts I found in local Classic salvage yard
Re: 30th Anniversary Cutlass F/S
Re: 81 Cutlass
71 442 W-30
RE: Plastic Guage Lenses - How To Polish
Re: Plastic Gauge Lenses -- How to Polish
87 Cutlass Tech 4 ignition
Re:Plastic Guage Lenses - How To Polish
looking for 68-72 4spd car
71 442 4Sale
Re: Plastic Gauge Lenses -- How to Polish
Re: Plastic Gauge Lenses -- How to Polish
Quadrajet tuning
Re: ebay redline Olds 442 ?
Re: Wire Hubcaps
Re: Olds Career Planning - Wyoming Tech (long)
Re: spindle swaps
Re: 71 442 W-30
Re: Parts I found in local Classic salvage yard
unsubscribe
Re: Quadrajet tuning
Re: ebay redline Olds 442 ?
Re: Wire Hubcaps
Re: Accident Pics
Re: spindle swaps
RE: Year One discounts
Re: HEI Question and comment (not trying to run this in the ground...but)
Re: HEI Question and comment (not trying to run this in the ground...but)
Rally Pack Talk & Rebuilder Suggestions/References
stealing was hei
Re: stealing was hei
Re: Parts I found in local Classic salvage yard
Needed - 7a heads (Texas)
Emmissions 
Re: Emmissions
Re: UNBOUNCE: '65 Dynamic 88 FS (Phila, Pa.)
Future Q-Jet parts? was: Quadrajet tuning
371 in a 215?? was: 3[9]4 in a 79???
Re: HEI Question and comment (not trying to run this in the ground...but)
Re: Future Q-Jet parts? was: Quadrajet tuning
Re: HEI Question and comment (not trying to run this in the ground...but)
Re: Emmissions
Re: stealing was hei
Re: Future Q-Jet parts? was: Quadrajet tuning
Re: Emmissions
Re: HEI Question and comment (not trying to run this in the  ground...but)
It's in the dash, I think (was "Can something discharge a battery when switch 
is "off"?)
Re: HEI Question and comment (not trying to run this in the ground...but)
Re: HEI Question and comment (not trying to run this in the ground...but)
Re: Emmissions
Re: It's in the dash, I think (was 
Re: It's in the dash, I think (was "Can something discharge abattery  when 
switch is "off"?)
Re: Wire Hubcaps

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 01:29:09 -0700
From: Chris Zimmerman <CZimmerman@KVOA.com>
Subject: RE: Plastic Gauge Lenses -- How to Polish

Meguier's also makes a polish for the clear plexiglas face shields on
motorcycle helmets. You can imagine how important it is to keep the
scratches out of those. I tried it on my Olds' instrument lenses and it
worked real well. I found a bottle of it at a local motorcycle parts
store. Have patience though, good results take a little bit of elbow
grease.

Good luck,
Chris

'67 442
'69 Vista Cruiser
'57 Chevy 

- -----Original Message-----
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com [mailto:CPEARLPARK@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 1999 5:41 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Plastic Gauge Lenses -- How to Polish


Any tips on products or methods to use to remove scratches..?  These
things
cost way too much (for what they are) to replace.  Bought some Meguire's
#10
something or other and it's nowhere near aggressive enough.  Got a
Dremel tool
for Christmas and was hoping some sort of compound would work with that
to do
the job. TIA.
Scott
71 442 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 20:54:52 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Parts I found in local Classic salvage yard

  Hey people!
         I found a pretty old Edelbrock Torker intake on a Olds in a local
yard today. The owner said I could have it for $50 if I wanted it...anyone
interested? It is for a small block. Also the same car had headers on it
too...those can be had for $20.

Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 20:39:47 -0500
From: "W-MACHINES" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: Re: 30th Anniversary Cutlass F/S

The first Cutlass Supreme was 1966.  It was *only* a 4-door hardtop, "top
of the line" offering.

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com   
Centennial Feature at http://www.en.com/users/wmachine/wm.html
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 4-sale
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 30th Anniversary Cutlass F/S
> Date: Wednesday, January 20, 1999 11:35 AM
> 
> >Stopped by the Olds dealer tonight and noticed a car with an unusual
> >badge on the fender.  I went to look at it and it was a "30th
> >Anniversary Special Edition" Cutlass Supreme SL.  The car is black with
> >gold stripes.  Interesting part is the car is a 1997!  Now I know when I
> >was growing up 1964 plus 30 equaled 1994 not 1997.  This doesn't even
> >fit with the Cutlass Supreme, because that was first offered in 1966.
> 
> I thought that the Supreme was introduced on the '67 line, and that the
442
> was only available on that model, being a high-end upgrade to the new
> high-end Cutlass model. Those two facts always seemed to go hand in hand
> with each other.
> 
> FWIW, if 1967 was the first year of Supreme production, the _1996_
Cutlass
> Supreme would have been the 30th year of the Cutlass Supreme model anyway
> (count it out on your fingers...), so there's a whole lot of liberty
taken
> with "anniversary" models.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 20:17:46 -0600
From: "Mark Tupper" <mtupper@palacenet.net>
Subject: Re: 81 Cutlass

Actually, the G-body Cutlass Calais is a sport/luxury model of the Cutlass.
It basically has a nicer interior, buckets & console with floor shifter. It
also has the F41 suspension package. The only thing that distinguishes it
visually from the rest of the Cutlass models would be the hood ornament and
trunk lid keyhole cover, which should say "Calais" on them.

- -Mark Tupper     1987 442    (OCA 30666)
mtupper@palacenet.net     http://cyberglyphs.com/442/

- -----Original Message-----
From: MFATZII@aol.com <MFATZII@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, January 20, 1999 4:04 PM
Subject: Re: 81 Cutlass


>According to the VIN on my 83 parts car it is a Calias, but it says Calais
>nowhere on the car. In fact it says Cutlass Supreme Brougham.  It also has
>spoke caps, no sun roof, no buckets, only clock ,a/c, and cruise for
options.
>So what is supposed to be sporty about it?  The 307 4bbl?
>
>Ryan
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 21:13:53 EST
From: Lou0118@aol.com
Subject: 71 442 W-30

I'm not sure if this went out last night.  If so please disregard.  Thanks.


There is a 71 442 W-30 in Hemmings for $12,500.  It?s the one in New Jersey.  
I know the guy who is selling it.  He's a dealer who is only about 15 minutes
from my house.  I?ve seen some of the others cars he has had for sale and they
all were nice clean cars.  In fact he called me about this one right after I
had gotten my 69 442 W-30.  

If anyone is interested let me know.  

Mmm, maybe I should look at this one.  No, I think the wife would kill me if I
got another one so soon.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30
lou0118@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 21:35:31 EST
From: GaryDW30@aol.com
Subject: RE: Plastic Guage Lenses - How To Polish

I've used this companies products for super gloss finish (glass like) on wood
doors and counter tops. I've also used this on various plastics with
outstanding results.
They have a cushioned sandpaper that allows hand work. Micro-fine grits up to
3600.

 <A HREF="http://micro-surface.com/company.htm">Click here: Micro-Surface
Finishing Products, Inc.-Who We Are</A> 

This stuff is used to polish aircraft windows, and car finishes.

Gary

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 21:49:37 EST
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Plastic Gauge Lenses -- How to Polish

Cleaned the lenses on my '67 Cutlass with 3M 'Finesse' polish. Came out like
new. Again, Patience is the key.

For severely scuffed and/or irreplaceable parts I've used #1000 grit wet/dry
sandpaper to smooth, then a more coarse polish--also 3m-- followed with the
'Finesse'. 

Peter
coupeking@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 22:09:55 -0500
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: 87 Cutlass Tech 4 ignition

Maybe someone here can answer a question for me,
	My daughter has an 87 Cutlass with the Tech 4 motor in it. She's been
having problems with it dying, and not wanting to start in the wet weather.
I bought a new set of wires for it and wanted to also buy a new distributor
cap. However, the parts store doesn't list a dist. cap for this car. I know
it has one, (or something that looks suspiciously like one) since I
replaced the wires and cleaned the existing one. It sticks out of the rear
of the engine. Any and all comments would be appreciated.
				TIA
				R. Kevin Noon
				66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
				85 DRB (for sale as soon as I receive a new 
title)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 22:23:27 EST
From: GaryDW30@aol.com
Subject: Re:Plastic Guage Lenses - How To Polish

Here's a site with better explanation of products, and they've added grits to
12000!

 <A HREF="http://www.sisweb.com/ms/sis/micromes.htm">Click here: Micromesh
Cleaning Abrasives, Page A95</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 22:30:41 EST
From: TheBlue67@aol.com
Subject: looking for 68-72 4spd car

hello list members, my dad is now looking for a 68-72 4-speed car. does not
matter if it is a W car or a rallye. a cutlass or 442 is fine. he would really
like to find a 4-speed post sedan though. so if anyone on the list knows of
such a beast let me know. condition should be descent and price is not a big
deal. he would like to trade his 71 442 up in price or down in price for the
car. so let me know.

Thanks
Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible
TheBlue67@Aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 22:29:54 EST
From: TheBlue67@aol.com
Subject: 71 442 4Sale

1971 442 for sale. hardtop, auto with consle. white buckets in descent shape,
blue exterior. very little rust, real solid body. car has 58,000 original
miles on a blown 455. Th-400, discs, posi, no a/c. very solid car over all,
with a fresh motor this would be a $8000 as it sit. Asking $3500 OBO or trade
up or down in value and condition for 68-72 4-speed car. Email me privately if
interested .... TheBlue67@Aol.Com. the car is in cleveland ohio.

Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 21:37:33 -0600
From: "Greg" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Plastic Gauge Lenses -- How to Polish

Go to a marine boating supply store.  They have stuff that takes out the
scratches in plexiglass and it works great on instrument lenses.  I forgot
the brand name though.  It's a slightly abrasive pink paste.

- -greg

- -----Original Message-----
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com <CPEARLPARK@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, January 20, 1999 6:48 PM
Subject: Plastic Gauge Lenses -- How to Polish


>Any tips on products or methods to use to remove scratches..?  These things
>cost way too much (for what they are) to replace.  Bought some Meguire's
#10
>something or other and it's nowhere near aggressive enough.  Got a Dremel
tool
>for Christmas and was hoping some sort of compound would work with that to
do
>the job. TIA.
>Scott
>71 442 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 01:17:35 -0500
From: "Erik Gertsen" <ainode@frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: Plastic Gauge Lenses -- How to Polish

i remember reading in car craft once that 3M (the chemical corp) made polish
just for plastic. go to a local janitorial supply store, bring your lens and
you may walk away with a winner.  its supposed to be really good.... and
besides, it dosent matter much if you spend $13 bucks, im sure youll find
many uses for it.... like polishing every lens on your car! think about the
possibilities.
Erik
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <CPEARLPARK@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 1999 7:41 PM
Subject: Plastic Gauge Lenses -- How to Polish


>Any tips on products or methods to use to remove scratches..?  These things
>cost way too much (for what they are) to replace.  Bought some Meguire's
#10
>something or other and it's nowhere near aggressive enough.  Got a Dremel
tool
>for Christmas and was hoping some sort of compound would work with that to
do
>the job. TIA.
>Scott
>71 442 Conv.
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 20:52:44 -0800
From: Chris & Robin Miller <cya442@san.rr.com>
Subject: Quadrajet tuning

    My carb seems to be running pretty lean, plugs are completely white,
and I was wondering if anyone has changed jet sizes out there and where
they got them from.  Also thanks everyone for the help with the
Robert-Shaw Thermostat and Dyno-max Mufflers, they showed up today from
Summit and I will be installing the mufflers Friday!  Can't wait to hear
how they sound.
Thanks in advance.

- --
Chris Miller
'68 442
San Diego, CA
mailto:cya442@san.rr.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 02:12:03 EST
From: Orangetrak@aol.com
Subject: Re: ebay redline Olds 442 ?

The Olds 442 redline  ( Before '77 ), for 1971 had a very short run, and goes
for lots of dough.  redline HW's are getting VERY expensive, and many car guys
remember them from their youth.  One VW Beach Bomb sold, ( Out of the package
) for Twelve thousand dollars! (12K)  To each his own....Doug

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 22:05:09 -0800
From: "John Young" <realtorjohn@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Wire Hubcaps

Also (muriatic) used as swimming pool acid to balance PH levels in pools.
realtorjohn@sprynet.com
69 442 W-32
- ----------
> Muriatic acid is the commercial name for HCl. A dilute form of it is used
> for cleaning brick walls and masonry, available at home centers. Pure HCl
> will take your skin off.
> 
> drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 22:34:36 EST
From: OLDS44272@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds Career Planning - Wyoming Tech (long)

            In my senoir year in high school ( 1989), I had to decide on which
college I was going to attend. I had done pretty good school, A and B's on a
college prep courses. I really didn't see myself as a bean counter or a pencil
pusher, so 4 more years of school for a job that i wasn't sure i wanted didn't
fit me. I found out about scholar ship that the Cleveland Automobile
Dealership Association had. They would pay the winner person's schooling as
long as they went into auto repair. A community college near me had a program
jointly sponsered by General Motors. the GM program is called ASEP (
automotive service education program) It was a 2 year program where you work
for 3 months at a sponsering dealership, then go to school 3 months. While you
were in school, in addition to the automotive classes, you had to take
academic classes. After the 2 year course, I received a bachlers degree in
Automotive Technology.  When I was working during the course, it was a union
shop. I was paid aprentice wages ( i think like $12 per hour). So i had the
best of both worlds. I was taught the text book theory and seen the real world
( like flat rate)way things were done. Due to differing views with the service
manager,i wasn't hired on after the 2 year course was over. Chalk that up to
being young and " knowing " everything. From the dealer, i went to work at a
BP Procare center. I would guess that would be like working at a Sears or
other chain service center. This is where i learned about all different types
of cars- Read as in older and imports!!.  I would still be working as a full
time tech, but i got in at a local factory that pays very well. I still work
on cars on the week ends and and help out my one friend that owns his own
shop.............Thanks for reading..........SCOTT

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 00:03:52 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: spindle swaps

John,
I have done this swap and here are your answers.

>1) 2nd generation (1970 - 1981) F-body spindles can be
>swapped into A-bodies; the swap requires machining the
>ball-joints & special tie-rod ends available at one time
>from HO racing and maybe Global West.
>

You use the ball joints and tie rod ends for the car you got
the spindle out of.  The upper BJ and the tie rod end will 
fit what you have but the lower BJ needs to be turned down
to fit the A body lower control arm.  There is an issue however
on some (all?) 64-67 cars needing an adapter sleeve for the 
tie rod ends but I'm researching that now.  Simple solution
if you do run into this (caused by the direction of the threads)
is to use the tie rod assemblies from a later A body (inner tie
rod and adj. sleeve.

>2) Some unspecified full-size GM station wagons (anyone
>know specific models and model years to help me find them
>in the junkyard ?) have spindles which will fit into
>A-bodies and permit use of huge 1LE Camaro 12" brake
>rotors. No modifications to tie-rod ends or balljoints
>needed.
>

First there are many applications that have the "F body" 11" 
rotor spindle.  Here's a partial list of common candidates:
70-81 Camaro/Firebird    
73-77 Chevelle/Cutlass/Grand Prix/Monte Carlo/Le Mans/Century
77-81 Chevy/Olds/Buick/Pontiac Full Size
75-79 Nova/Omega/Skylark

For the 12" Spindles you need to find a 78-92 GM full size, though
there's no guarantee that they will have the 12" rotors.  You still 
have to swap BJ's same as the 11" rotors.  Catch is that you have
to use the 1LE rotors since all the cars that the 12" rotors come on
are a 5 on 5 bolt pattern.

>3) Both of the above swaps will require huge amounts of
>shimming of the upper control arm mounts to restore static
>camber settings, alternatively an offset cross-shaft from
>Moog can be used to reduce the number of shims needed,
>alternatively the (very pricey) custom upper control arms
>from Global West or Hotchkis can be used.
>

On my car it only took 1/2" to 3/4" of shims to align the car.  It
all depends on the ride height of the car and how much the frame
has "spread" over the years.  Another drawback to using the stock
upper control arm is that with the taller spindle it lets the suspension
drop much farther before it contacts the bump stops.  This is a 
minor nusiance but I am currently searching the junkyards to try to find
an application with an upper control arm that would fix the problem.  If 
you compare the F body and early A body upper arms you will see that
the A body arms drop dramatically because of the very short spindle
they used.  The F body arm is much "straighter"  and if I can find an
application that is similar and slightly narrower than the A body it would
cure the shim problem and the excessive suspension travel.  Back to the
bone yard!

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 09:05:06 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: 71 442 W-30

In a message dated 1/21/99 4:21:42 AM EST, Lou0118@aol.com writes:

<< There is a 71 442 W-30 in Hemmings for $12,500.  It?s the one in New
Jersey.   >>

Hey Lou,
Is that a conv? Where in NJ is it at?
Bruce
75 Delta 88 Conv. (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 09:23:29 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Parts I found in local Classic salvage yard

GT5726@aol.com wrote:
> 
>   Hey people!
>          I found a pretty old Edelbrock Torker intake on a Olds in a local
> yard today. The owner said I could have it for $50 if I wanted it...anyone
> interested? It is for a small block. Also the same car had headers on it
> too...those can be had for $20.

Hi Collyn,

	What kind of car was it. I am interested in a used pair of headers for
my 70 Cutlass S. Are they in decent shape? Let me know, please. Thanks

- -- 
|============|
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
|=========================|
'73 Cutlass Supreme
'70 Cutlass 'S'
'75 Cutlass 'S'
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
|=================================================|

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 09:54:03 EST
From: Smitty4870@aol.com
Subject: unsubscribe

unsubscribe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 09:10:22 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: Quadrajet tuning

Chris Miller asked:

>    My carb seems to be running pretty lean, plugs are completely white,
>and I was wondering if anyone has changed jet sizes out there and where
>they got them from. 

Chris,

I got jets from Summit, but I'm pretty sure you can get them from lotsa 
places. They're sold as Edelbrock parts & manufactured by Weber America.

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 22:13:29 EST
From: CUTLASS442@aol.com
Subject: Re: ebay redline Olds 442 ?

Redline refers to the red line around the tires. As I'm not into hot wheels
anymore i couldn't help with what determines the value of them.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 22:01:49 -0500
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Re: Wire Hubcaps

Brian,
	Many years ago I got a set of wire hubcaps from a Ch*vy out of a junk
yard. They were in great shape but unbelievably dirty. I washed them as
well as possible outside with the hose and brush method and then, (against
my mothers wishes) I put them in the dishwasher. They came out looking LIKE
NEW! I was amazed and my mom forgave me. (No damage to the dishwasher).
Good luck.
				R. Kevin Noon	
				66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
				85 DRB (for sale, as soon as I receive a new 
title)

- ----------
> From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca; olds_gbody@listbot.com
> Subject: Wire Hubcaps
> Date: Monday, January 18, 1999 5:52 PM
> 
> This may apply more to the G Body folks than anyone else, but all
> replies are welcomed, of course.
> 
> Has anyone had any luck cleaning their Cutlass wire wheel covers?  After
> all the filthy horrible snow and road salt lately my hubcaps are looking
> pretty horrid.  I can see that if I take them off I can clean the inside
> ring somewhat, and the outside poses little problem, but there is that
> piece in the middle between the two sets of spokes--and the inside
> spokes themselves--that I just can't seem to get to.  I tried spraying
> them with Castrol Super Clean, which took the oil off my motor but
> couldn't take the dirt off my hubcaps.  I would shy away from
> dismantling them because I got lucky and didn't get noisy ones, but if
> that is what it takes and they are noisy afterwards, I can just turn up
> the radio.  That's more fun anyway.
> Brian.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 21:38:47 -0500
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Re: Accident Pics

"We can rebuild her...we have the technology"

- ----------
> From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
> To: Oldsmobile E-mail Ring <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Accident Pics
> Date: Monday, January 18, 1999 3:11 PM
> 
> Hello everyone!
> 
> It's taken me some time now, but I finally got someone to scan in the
> pics of my baby since the accident. For the ones not quite yet clued
> into this here is a run-down. A while back I was involved in an
> accident with my baby. A girl (pretty cute looking *LOL*) failed to
> yield the right of way and pulled out in front of me. I plowed into
> her doing about 30 MPH. I ended up about half way up her hood and my
> baby was the worst looking of the 2 cars. (She was in a mid to late
> 80's Beretta.) And here is the aftermath of the accident.
> 
> http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan/Update.html
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ==
> Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> rockman20@yahoo.com
> 1986 Honda Accord DX
> 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
> 1981 John Deer Snowmobile
> 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
> 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 10:19:31 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: spindle swaps

In a message dated 1/21/1999 7:16:17 AM Eastern Standard Time,
mbloomer@gateway.net writes:

<< On my car it only took 1/2" to 3/4" of shims to align the car.  It
 all depends on the ride height of the car and how much the frame
 has "spread" over the years.  Another drawback to using the stock
 upper control arm is that with the taller spindle it lets the suspension
 drop much farther before it contacts the bump stops.  >>


It looks like my car will need more than the 3/4 shims you speak of, however,
my car has had the front saddle re-streached (to make up for it's sag over the
years).  What I am going to do is to use the F-Body upper controll arm.  If
you use the rear bolt hole, and make a braced bracket to weld to the frame to
mount the upper bolt hole, it looks like it will work great.  I'll keep
everybody posted as to how well this project goes.

SeeYa!
Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 09:33:55 -0600
From: steven@purplemonkey.com (Steven Saraceno)
Subject: RE: Year One discounts

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List, better give a call, They had my address wrong by one number and did not 
have my discount on record.

Steven
70 W-30 convertible


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- ------ =_NextPart_000_01BE4521.2ABE3B60--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 08:56:12 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: HEI Question and comment (not trying to run this in the 
ground...but)

By pocketing do you mean you STOLE parts they would probably have gave you?
Then bragged about it.  What has become of our country????   :-(

LP
nurelic@primenet.com
- -----Original Message-----
From: GT5726@aol.com <GT5726@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, January 20, 1999 6:54 PM
Subject: HEI Question and comment (not trying to run this in the
ground...but)


>   Hey Olds folks, I just joined the bandwagon for HEI's. I went to a
salvage
>yard today and bought an HEI (vacuum adv., non computerized), back-up
lights
>(complete), liscense plate light (complete), 16 T3 headlights (8 "1"'s and
8
>"2"'s), front winsheild reveal molding, a "Modern Olds of Dallas" dealer
>emblem ( has a verycool rocket on it!!!!!)and several odds and ends
("pocket
>parts", you know ...the ones you don't pay for...hahahaha). The total bill
was
>$35. Anyway, my comment on the HEI was, I've heard that the base timing is
>different for HEI's.I planned on this by "pocketing" a late model HEI
timing
>tab...the one that reads from 0 to 18 BTDC. Is this item neccesary?
>
>Collyn Eastham
>65 442
>65 Cutlass
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 08:07:07 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: HEI Question and comment (not trying to run this in the 
ground...but)

- ---Larry Pegg <nurelic@primenet.com> wrote:
>
> By pocketing do you mean you STOLE parts they would probably have
gave you?
> Then bragged about it.  What has become of our country????   :-(
> 
> LP
> nurelic@primenet.com
===============================
Not to say that this is cool or anything, but I think that everyone
has pocketed something from a bone yard! Especially the one near here.
I mean, these places pay like 50 to 100 bucks for a perfectly good car
and then they turn around make easily over quadruple that on parts!
Plus, the one here charges ya 30 bucks just to get into their "Classic
Lot" and if you don't find what you need, you are out that 30 bucks!
Anyplace that wants to be that crooked about their business deserves a
little payback now and again! My 1/5th of a cent though!

Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 08:07:26 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Rally Pack Talk & Rebuilder Suggestions/References

>Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 10:24:22 -0600
>From: "Greg" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
>Subject: Re: More New Stuff

>I sold mine for $250.....I'm kicking myself in the pants.
>greg z

>>70-72 Rally Pacs (nice complete setups)  $525.00 ea.
>>Jim Chermack
>>C&M Classic Parts
>>(757)474-0869

WOW, I had no idea either that this is now the going price.  I guess I got a
great deal when I stripped a rotted 70 4-4-2 a few years ago.  Got the
entire car for $200.00.

Since I am in the middle of restifying  my 4-4-2, has anyone had any of
their rally packs restified?  If so were you happy and by who and how much?
I remember seeing a guy in Hemmings.  I'd really like to have the clock
rebuilt, but mostly the tin shells/casings (Exterior surface) glass beaded
and painted.

Are these easy to remove, or should I leave it to the rebuilder?  Anyone
done this??

- -Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 09:31:35 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: stealing was hei

Did you ever stop to consider that the reason they charge money to get ins
is that they end up missing a lot of small highly desirable parts.  I Know
how expensive it is to run a business.  I think if you feel that they are
making soooo much money then you should,   Buy some land and start your own
yard.  The fact that Some yards over charge is not an excuse for an
individual to steal from them.  If you don't like a yards policies go
somewhere else.

Sealing is wrong.  It hurts everyone.  I like going into yards and
scrounging around I don't want MY yard to end up charging me because people
are pocketing their profits.




>---Larry Pegg <nurelic@primenet.com> wrote:
>>
>> By pocketing do you mean you STOLE parts they would probably have
>gave you?
>> Then bragged about it.  What has become of our country????   :-(
>>
>> LP
>> nurelic@primenet.com
>===============================
>Not to say that this is cool or anything, but I think that everyone
>has pocketed something from a bone yard! Especially the one near here.
>I mean, these places pay like 50 to 100 bucks for a perfectly good car
>and then they turn around make easily over quadruple that on parts!
>Plus, the one here charges ya 30 bucks just to get into their "Classic
>Lot" and if you don't find what you need, you are out that 30 bucks!
>Anyplace that wants to be that crooked about their business deserves a
>little payback now and again! My 1/5th of a cent though!
>
>Del
>==
>Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
>rockman20@yahoo.com
>1986 Honda Accord DX
>1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
>1981 John Deer Snowmobile
>197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
>1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
>_________________________________________________________
>DO YOU YAHOO!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 08:57:36 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: stealing was hei

> Did you ever stop to consider that the reason they charge money to
get ins
> is that they end up missing a lot of small highly desirable parts. 
I Know
> how expensive it is to run a business.  I think if you feel that
they are
> making soooo much money then you should,   Buy some land and start
your own
> yard.  The fact that Some yards over charge is not an excuse for an
> individual to steal from them.  If you don't like a yards policies go
> somewhere else.
> 
> Sealing is wrong.  It hurts everyone.  I like going into yards and
> scrounging around I don't want MY yard to end up charging me because
people
> are pocketing their profits.
==================================
I am ending my response to this thread with this message. Like I said,
I didn't say that it was right, just that they deserve it! What I did
to cure this problem is I drive to a yard that is 45 minutes away
where they treat me right. Treat me fairly and I will treat you the
same. The "corrupt yard" had given me a price of 35 bucks for the fan
shroud on my Olds. I went, paid my 30 bucks to get in the gate, took
the shroud off, went up to the counter, and the price jumped to 50
because he didn't think it was in that good of shape! I was stuck! No
way was I leaving 30 dollars less AND empty handed! So I forked over
the extra 20 bucks and told em I would go elsewhere. They charge you
the 30 because they know they have ya then! Now that I have said my
2/5ths of a cent, I end this thread.

Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 11:55:24 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: Parts I found in local Classic salvage yard

Yes, I would love the headers and intake, always need more junk to piss
everyone off :). Where are you and the parts located? Email me back privately
if so

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 10:56:06 -0600
From: "Darrin Johnson" <xdarrinj@ti.com>
Subject: Needed - 7a heads (Texas)

I am looking for a set of 7a heads for a 72 350.  I would prefer North or
Central Texas to avoid shipping.  Salvage yard leads also welcome.  Direct
email appreciated.

Darrin Johnson
Wylie, TX
xdarrinj@ti.com
djohnsn@ibm.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 09:33:50 -0800 (PST)
From: Nari Koka <koka10@yahoo.com>
Subject: Emmissions 

I have a 82 Delta 88.  It does very well on HidroCarbons and
CarbonMonoxide but very very bad on NOx.  I checked the EGR system and
it is testing fine.  Is there a component that I should watch out for,
that can cause such a bad NOx values while not affecting HC and CO?

Thanks for your help.
Nari
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 09:54:48 -0800
From: Shawn Holwegner <shawn@holwegner.com>
Subject: Re: Emmissions

> I have a 82 Delta 88.  It does very well on HidroCarbons and
> CarbonMonoxide but very very bad on NOx.  I checked the EGR system and
> it is testing fine.  Is there a component that I should watch out for,
> that can cause such a bad NOx values while not affecting HC and CO?
- ---end quoted text---

 (Assuming 307 Y)

 When in doubt, check yer oxygen sensor, if you have over 50k on it,
it'd be wise to change it. also, kick yer idle back to about 18 - it wont run
well but it'll most probably pass. set it back to 20 (stock) (I prefer
22, myself).

 - S
- -- 
#$Bourne compatible .sig,v1.003 1998/12/09 09:16:32 shawn Exp $
set `date +"cc echo ./a.out rm Funja Ubyjrtare /tmp/t.c
main(a){while(a=~getchar())putchar(~a-1/(~(a|32)/13*2-11)*13);}"`;
$2 $8>$7;g$1 $7||$1 $7;$2 $5 $6, rznvy: $5@$6.Pbz.|$3;$4 $3 $7

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 13:40:29 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: '65 Dynamic 88 FS (Phila, Pa.)

In a message dated 99-01-20 15:24:24 EST, you write:

<< Not on the list, respond to Bridalboy@aol.com if interested.

 Hi my name is martin kane, I live in Philadelphia Pa. and have an Oldsmobile
 Dynamic 88 for sale it is a 1965 with a 425 v8 under the hood, it needs some
 work but would like to sell it to someone who would want to possibly restore
 it.  So any h*lp you can provide with maybe where to post the car or who I
 should talk to would be appreciated. >>

COULD have the 10.5:1 comp 375hp Starfire 425 engine with forged crank and
s.p. TH400 standard.

Go!

K

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 13:40:27 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Future Q-Jet parts? was: Quadrajet tuning

In a message dated 99-01-21 09:58:16 EST, you write:

<< I got jets from Summit, but I'm pretty sure you can get them from lotsa 
 places. They're sold as Edelbrock parts & manufactured by Weber America. >>

Confirms suspicions Karl has had.

Weber America or Weber Carburetors  ~IS~ Magnetti Marelli who now has some
claim to the Roch Carb copyright.

Hopefully they will provide many replacement parts in the future...

hopefully....

Keep warm.

SOM

&KA
ICQ #20414415
http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 13:40:21 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: 371 in a 215?? was: 3[9]4 in a 79???

In a message dated 99-01-18 11:08:29 EST, you write:

<< Uh, _are_ the motor mounts the same?  I wouldn't think so...  The 215 seems
 to be somewhat of an orphan among GM motors as far as motor and trans
 mounts are concerned.  Plus, you'd be replacing a motor that weighs 305 lbs
 with one that weighs over twice that. >>

You are ~correctly~ considering that the stock structural design of such a
vehicle was NOT designed with a 371 in mind. Unfortunately most of Karl's
Olds-related tests have been moved, but I (uh, ... he!) think(s) that there
was one model or more that had the 215 and 394 as options (Dynamic?), as
Setting the Pace lists those as the only two motors available.

You might be correct that the motor mounts for the 215 were different, as the
215 was of Buick manufacture and used by B-O [-P??] with Oldsmobiles using
cylinder heads of their own design. The 371 block itself may well be larger
than the initial 324 block, and therefore bigger than the 215 (although the
394's Karl has seen were SB-sized....

There was someone at an IVOC show who had a 1961-grille F-85 rodded-out to
hold a Chevvy SB with a dual Holley 600 (or 650) intake and a unique oval air
cleaner housing, plus modified suspension, plus fuel cell in trunk....
And it was red.

Are the mounts different?

Anyone know?

K

So, Lou, how good are you with Oxy-Acetelene?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 14:00:17 -0500
From: tonwald@eta.k12.mn.us (Tony Waldner)
Subject: Re: HEI Question and comment (not trying to run this in the 
ground...but)

>I mean, these places pay like 50 to 100 bucks for a perfectly good car
>and then they turn around make easily over quadruple that on parts!
___________________________


WRONG!!!!!!!!!

Late model wrecks go anywhere from 700 to 4000 dollars.  The old abandoned
junkers are the ones that get bought for 50 to 100 bucks.  Then you must
factor in handling... ie: paying a dismantler 8 to 16 dollars an hour to
strip the car down, drain and recycle all fluids, batteries, freon and
mercury switches.  Equipment upkeep like forklifts and hoists etc, property
taxes, workman's comp insurance, proprty insurance, utility bills......I
could go on but you get the idea.

Stealing only ruins it for the honest people by inflated prices to cut
loss. We always knew good parts, and I did the car buying for the yard I
worked at so I knew what I had and when it was sold, or just missing.

I managed a salvage yard for 10 years.  It was a lot of work, but also had
wonderful perks!   Guess who got all of the nice Olds parts before the car
even made it into the yard!

Tony

70 442 W-30
70 442 w-30 convert
70 Toro GT W-34
65 Jetstar 88 w/4-speed
84 Hurst/Olds
85 Cutlass Salon 455 Drag Racer
92 Seville STS

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 14:00:15 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Future Q-Jet parts? was: Quadrajet tuning

KarlAune@aol.com wrote:

> Confirms suspicions Karl has had.
>
> Weber America or Weber Carburetors  ~IS~ Magnetti Marelli who now has some
> claim to the Roch Carb copyright.
> Hopefully they will provide many replacement parts in the future...

Well, Karl, the future may be closer than you think.  From my 1998 Edelbrock
catalog, the following Q-Jet parts are available:

Some sizes of primary metering rods (single taper only) for both pre and post
1975 applications

Five different sizes of secondary rods

Ten sizes of primary metering jets (sizes .068 through .077).

Five sizes of secondary metering rod hangers (B, G, K, P, and V)

Floats (probably Chevy style) for pre and post 1975.

Four different power piston springs (come in an assortment pack which includes
4" Hg, 5" Hg, 6" Hg, and 8" Hg strengths).

Plus various gaskets, Hi-po accelerator pumps, hardware packages, etc.

Other sources for Q-Jet parts are Year One and SuperCars Unlimited (my personal
first choice, because they know Oldsmobiles better).  For floats for Olds
applications, I'd go to SuperCars first.  The float they supply is an actual AC
Delco OEM float, not an aftermarket approximation.

The drawback to the Edelbrock parts is you have to get them through an 
Edelbrock
distributor, such as Summit.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 14:19:46 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: HEI Question and comment (not trying to run this in the 
ground...but)

In a message dated 1/21/99 11:05:55 AM EST, rockman20@yahoo.com writes:

<< Not to say that this is cool or anything, but I think that everyone
 has pocketed something from a bone yard! Especially the one near here.
 I mean, these places pay like 50 to 100 bucks for a perfectly good car
 and then they turn around make easily over quadruple that on parts!
 Plus, the one here charges ya 30 bucks just to get into their "Classic
 Lot" and if you don't find what you need, you are out that 30 bucks!
 Anyplace that wants to be that crooked about their business deserves a
 little payback now and again! My 1/5th of a cent though! >>

Del,
To put it simply, you couldn't be more wrong. Business is allowed to make a
profit. That's why they stock items for people like us who need them. If you
don't like the "admittance fee," you don't have to go there. If you don't like
the fact that he's making a profit, you don't have to buy it. But stealing is
stealing and there's no way to justify or rationalize it away. You can call it
"pocketing" but it's really shoplifting and illegal aside from being immoral.
How would you feel if it were your business? How would you feel if you were
arrested for stealing a petty part? It's certainly not something I would be
proud to tell my children about. 
Sorry for the soapbox

Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv. (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 14:35:40 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Emmissions

In a message dated 1/21/99 9:36:31 AM Pacific Standard Time, koka10@yahoo.com
writes:

<< I have a 82 Delta 88.  It does very well on HidroCarbons and
 CarbonMonoxide but very very bad on NOx.  I checked the ERG system and
 it is testing fine.  Is there a component that I should watch out for,
 that can cause such a bad NOx values while not affecting HC and CO?
 
 Thanks for your help.
 Nari >>

      Don't wan to muddy the waters, so if someone knows for sure, and can
keep it rather simple, clear me up : ) I believe NOx is worse the higher the
combustion temperature in the cylinder. The motor running lean I believe also
causes it to run hotter I don't know what other factors there are, but I would
think those 3 tested components are inter related....if NOx was high, and the
others weren't proportional, perhaps leanness could be the cause? Some one on
here that knows for sure please clue us in. I don't have to pass
emissions...yet, but when I do, I want to know what to be looking out for
readings wise. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 12:00:17 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: stealing was hei

> Did you ever stop to consider that the reason they charge money
> to get in is that they end up missing a lot of small highly
> desirable parts. 

(Side comment: $30 just to get in the yard? Is it refundable with
a purchase? Do they waive it for known customers, or mail-orders?
Sounds like some sort of "go away" strategy to me...)

Certainly if you rip off the yard by hiding parts in the toolbox,
those are parts they can't sell to other buyers. I'll cheerfully
admit here that I've stashed parts in the toolbox myself, but the
only ones I've gotten this way (and I _know_ it's stealing so you
_don't_ have to point this out to me all over again :-) are odds
and ends that are common pieces and not unique to the car: glove
box lights, replacement trim screws, piddly stuff like that. One
day at the yard I decided I should stock up on fuses, so I yanked
a bunch out of one or two hulks.

Point being that I'm lifting stuff which would clearly go to the 
crusher otherwise. Double standard? You bet. Sleep well at night?
Yup. Would I do the same thing for other smallish parts such as
alternators, gauges, etc? Nope; clearly somebody might show up
wanting to buy 'em, and that's what the yard is in business for.

- -- Andy


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 14:22:01 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: Future Q-Jet parts? was: Quadrajet tuning

Karl,

<snip>
>
>Weber America or Weber Carburetors  ~IS~ Magnetti Marelli who now has some
>claim to the Roch Carb copyright.
>
>Hopefully they will provide many replacement parts in the future...
>
>hopefully....

Right now you can buy primary jets, primary & secondary metering rods, 
needle & seat (inlet) valve, phenolic floats, accelerator pumps, & secondary 
rod hangers as Edelbrock parts. These I know. Maybe others.


>Keep warm.
>

You too!

roger

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 15:05:18 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Emmissions

Nari Koka wrote:

> I have a 82 Delta 88.  It does very well on HidroCarbons and
> CarbonMonoxide but very very bad on NOx.  I checked the EGR system and
> it is testing fine.  Is there a component that I should watch out for,
> that can cause such a bad NOx values while not affecting HC and CO?
>
> Thanks for your help.
> Nari

As has been noted, increased combustion temperatures can contribute to
increased NOX.  Somewhat with this is increased combustion pressures.  Two
conditions that can cause this are advanced ignition timing and increased
compression ratios.  This is why the factory retarded timing and lowered
CR's in the early '70's.  So, if you've advanced your timing significantly
out of spec to get more power and fuel economy, that may be part of the
problem.  Also, if you've done any mods to increase your compression
ratio, that's a possibility, too.  It's somewhat of a catch 22 that the
manufacturers have to live with to meet emissions requirements.  The very
conditions that reduce one pollutant can contribute to another.  Oh,
another idea.  My guess is you most likely have a three stage catalytic
converter.  The portion that is supposed to reduce NOX may be defective,
somehow.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 13:40:46 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: HEI Question and comment (not trying to run this in the  
ground...but)

I once bought a near mint steering wheel for $8 from a wreckers, since then I
don't "pocket parts" because I fell I've done well enough already.  As my dad
used to say, "If you're going to steal do it big, your good name is worth more
than $5"

<soapbox mode off>
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 16:21:23 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: It's in the dash, I think (was "Can something discharge a battery 
when switch is "off"?)

Noticed that one of the dash lights (one of the three dash 'windows') lights
up when the headlight switch is off and goes out when switch is on. To be
specific, it's the light for the tach.

The light behind the speedometer works correctly and I assume the bulb on
the left dash 'window' must be burned out because it doesn't work at all.

Need a new light switch? Suggestions?

TIA once more.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 16:27:28 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: HEI Question and comment (not trying to run this in the 
ground...but)

>To put it simply, you couldn't be more wrong. Business is allowed to make a
>profit. That's why they stock items for people like us who need them. If you
>don't like the "admittance fee," you don't have to go there. If you don't
like
>the fact that he's making a profit, you don't have to buy it. But stealing is
>stealing and there's no way to justify or rationalize it away. You can
call it
>"pocketing" but it's really shoplifting and illegal aside from being immoral.
>How would you feel if it were your business? How would you feel if you were
>arrested for stealing a petty part? It's certainly not something I would be
>proud to tell my children about. 
>Sorry for the soapbox
>
>Bruce
>75 Delta 88 conv. (duals of course)
>
>===========================================
No sorry's needed.
Well put Bruce

Omega man

'74 Omega S 455

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 16:22:30 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: HEI Question and comment (not trying to run this in the 
ground...but)

In a message dated 1/21/1999 11:06:03 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rockman20@yahoo.com writes:

<< 50 to 100 bucks for a perfectly good car
 and then they turn around make easily over quadruple that on parts! >>


erm, isn't that what they do?  I mean they are there to make money, right??
They have employees, right?  They also buy a lot of cars they sell very little
from, then have to scrap.  Besides, if a yard is unreasonable, isn't it more
reasonable to simply go somewhere else? 

Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 16:34:08 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Emmissions

Nari Koka wrote:

> I have a 82 Delta 88.  It does very well on HidroCarbons and
> CarbonMonoxide but very very bad on NOx.  I checked the EGR system and
> it is testing fine.  Is there a component that I should watch out for,
> that can cause such a bad NOx values while not affecting HC and CO?

I forgot to add something.  Another problem could be the oxygen sensor or
connections.  Here's why.  In my earlier post I referred to a three stage
catalytic converter.  Actually, it's a two stage catalytic converter with
a three-way catalyst in the first stage.  The second stage is the
oxydation catalyst.  The air tube going to the catalytic converter
supplies air for this second stage.  The first stage reduces carbon
monoxide (CO), hydrocarbons (HC), and NOX, but only works properly during
closed-loop periods when the O2 sensor is maintaining a stoichometrically
precise air/fuel mixture (14.7:1).  The second stage further reduces HC
and CO.  During open-loop periods (periods when the O2 sensor is not
controlling the A/F ratio), the first stage is not operating, but the
second stage will continue to reduce HC and CO.  So, if your O2 sensor is
shot, this first stage will not properly reduce NOX, but the second stage
will continue to reduce HC and CO.
- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 13:52:09 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: It's in the dash, I think (was 

> Noticed that one of the dash lights (one of the three dash 
> 'windows') lights up when the headlight switch is off and goes
> out when switch is on. To be specific, it's the light for the tach.

I'd guess you have a bad ground on the tach. Its casing is supposed 
to be grounded to the dash. Apparently this is not working, and 
current flow (from somewhere...?) is doubling back through the 
backlighting bulb, which shares that broken ground connection, and 
grounding elsewhere in the backlighting circuit. Put a little ground 
strap of some sort between the metal case of the tach and a known good 
ground point and it should be okay.

> The light behind the speedometer works correctly and I assume the
> bulb on the left dash 'window' must be burned out because it doesn't
> work at all.

Yup; I believe the left and center pods are one big assembly in back,
though the tach may be separate (well, this was true for '72 vintage,
IIRC), so if the center bulb works but the left one doesn't, it's
probably a bad bulb, or melted socket, or damaged printed circuit,
in that order. You'll need to poke around a bit to be sure.

> Need a new light switch?

Oh, heck, no, not if at least one backlighting bulb is acting okay
(e.g. the dimmer rheostat is fine, no flames are visible, etc. :-)

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 14:56:19 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: It's in the dash, I think (was "Can something discharge abattery  
when switch is "off"?)

Your tach. is probably wired incorrectly.  To be precise, the ground is
probably running to a wire that has +12v.  When the light switch is on both
sides are equal and the tach. light is off (no electrical differential to power
it).  When the light switch is turned off the power comes from the incorrect
+12 source and the other items on the same circuit act as ground.

I would disconnect the tach. ground and make sure it's going to a true ground
and see if that helps.  If you don't get any light then you may want to check
that it is getting the correct power on the power lines (ones probably +12
ignition key switched and the other is 0 to +12 from the dash lights).

Of course I may be just full of s*$^ too. ;)

"C. Casteel" wrote:
> 
> Noticed that one of the dash lights (one of the three dash 'windows') lights
> up when the headlight switch is off and goes out when switch is on. To be
> specific, it's the light for the tach.
> 
> The light behind the speedometer works correctly and I assume the bulb on
> the left dash 'window' must be burned out because it doesn't work at all.
> 
> Need a new light switch? Suggestions?
> 
> TIA once more.

- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 20 Jan 1999 17:07:01 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: Wire Hubcaps

Thanks to all who posted regarding the wheel cover question. 
Fortunately I have a good period of time most days where I can get the
dishwasher running without anyone knowing.  More than a couple of people
have suggested the dishwasher for these wire covers, but I haven't done
it yet.  Thanks again
Brian.

rkn wrote:
> 
> Brian,
>         Many years ago I got a set of wire hubcaps from a Ch*vy out of a junk
> yard. They were in great shape but unbelievably dirty. I washed them as
> well as possible outside with the hose and brush method and then, (against
> my mothers wishes) I put them in the dishwasher. They came out looking LIKE
> NEW! I was amazed and my mom forgave me. (No damage to the dishwasher).
> Good luck.
>                                 R. Kevin Noon
>                                 66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
>                                 85 DRB (for sale, as soon as I receive a new 
title)
> 
> ----------
> > From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca; olds_gbody@listbot.com
> > Subject: Wire Hubcaps
> > Date: Monday, January 18, 1999 5:52 PM
> >
> > This may apply more to the G Body folks than anyone else, but all
> > replies are welcomed, of course.
> >
> > Has anyone had any luck cleaning their Cutlass wire wheel covers?  After
> > all the filthy horrible snow and road salt lately my hubcaps are looking
> > pretty horrid.  I can see that if I take them off I can clean the inside
> > ring somewhat, and the outside poses little problem, but there is that
> > piece in the middle between the two sets of spokes--and the inside
> > spokes themselves--that I just can't seem to get to.  I tried spraying
> > them with Castrol Super Clean, which took the oil off my motor but
> > couldn't take the dirt off my hubcaps.  I would shy away from
> > dismantling them because I got lucky and didn't get noisy ones, but if
> > that is what it takes and they are noisy afterwards, I can just turn up
> > the radio.  That's more fun anyway.
> > Brian.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1727
*********************************

