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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1716


oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, January 13 1999     Volume 01 : Number 1716



Re: Interior color Q
Re: Rockets on the radio
ID'ing a TH350
RE: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
Screen Saver Wish list
Re: forged crank
center caps for sale
Re: Olds History Center
Re: Blown 403
67 442 w-30 experimental uhv system
Re: Hurst/Olds Screen Saver where can i get it
Re: forged crank
Re: forged crank
RE Lightning Rod Cable
Re: Hurst/Olds Screen Saver where can i get it
1968 442 Vertical Stripe
Re: forged crank
Re: Batten Vs. Edelbrock
Re: Desirable front end geometry (NOT!)
Re: Centerforce - clutches and flywheels
Re: ID'ing a TH350
Re: ID'ing a TH350
subscribe oldsmobile
84 delta TH200c woes - revisited
Re: 67 442 w-30 experimental uhv system
Re: forged crank
Re: Desirable front end geometry (NOT!)
Re: ID'ing a TH350
Re: ID'ing a TH350
Re: 84 delta TH200c woes - revisited
Re: 84 delta TH200c woes - revisited
Re: Blown 403
Re: 84 delta TH200c woes - revisited
Re: beater vs restored
Re: Detonation problem
Hustst/Olds Screen Saver
subscribe oldsmobile
FS: '61 F85, '65 Cutlass conv., & '61 Starfire conv.
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
RE: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions? (Kinda long but not really)
RE: Centerforce - clutches and flywheels
desirable front end geometry (NOT)
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
ignition coil grounding..
Re: Batten Vs. Edelbrock
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
Re: forged crank
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
<2nd clue> Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"? 
Re: <2nd clue> Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"?
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions? (Kinda long but not really)
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions? (Kinda long but not really)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 20:38:12 EST
From: BigEJ@aol.com
Subject: Re: Interior color Q

<<just how rare is the saffron yellow interior for 67?? i only recall seeing a
<<couple of cars with this color and i know of a parts car for sale with this
<<color. i think this color would look cool inside my crystal blue 67
<<convertible.

<<so how rare is it??

<<Brent
<<1967 Cutlass Convertible

The saffron color was originally released as a convertable package, yellow
top, interior, and paint.  It was really sharp, even though it may not sound
so.  The saffron interior was an option for 98, & 88 convertibles with the
"strato bench" front seat and Cutlass Supreme Holiday coupes and convertibles
and Cutlass convertibles with buckets.  The saffron interior could be
specified with white, black, gold, champagne, ivory, and naturally saffron
paint.  

I worked for an Olds store in 67 and saw three Cutlass size cars with that
interior that I recall.   Two of the all yellow convertibles, one a 442,  and
a black 442 coupe with yellow pin stripe and the yellow interior.  I bought
the coupe, and still own it today.  In all these years I have never seen
another Cutlass with saffron interior except for yellow ones.

Hope this helps.

Ernie J

67 442
50 88

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 20:46:45 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Rockets on the radio

Sounds like you grounded out your electrical system - may want to check that
your positive battery cable didn't ground/melt against your exhaust (don't
ask...)
Todd Daenzer
Toys put away for the winter...

Rock Man wrote:

> --Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com> wrote:
> <Taking a big hunk out>
>  Just my little bit of mindless babble to add to todays very little list
> > traffic.
> > I guess everyones Olds is running good today.
> >
> > Anyone got any 'good ole days' storys of adreniline pumping rides in
> their
> > rockets?
> <finishing my hacking>
>
> Well, this is kinda a story with a question. Now, before I get any
> flames about street racing, I know that it is illegal, but the kid in
> the Javelin was asking for it! Anyways, one day I was sitting at a
> stop light when I heard this rumble pull up next to me. It was an
> orange Javelin that has a 4 spd in it. (Heard him around town before
> shifting gears. Not sure what engine though) He revs his engine a
> little and I just chuckle. The light turns green and the gas is
> mashed. My poor old highway gears didn't help me off the take-off. He
> jumped about a car lenght ahead until I hit second. I started to
> scream past him. I was watching my tach waiting to put the shifter
> into third. (My tranny shifts WAY too soon otherwise!) The tach was
> nearing the 4500 RPM range when all of a sudden everything died! Radio
> and all! No backfires, no nothing. Just dead! I let off the gas and it
> coasted for a bit and then kicked back up. I didn't blow anything,
> there is nothing wrong with the engine! Any ideas on what could of
> caused this? Needless to say that the Javelin won, but his time will
> come!
>
> Del
> ==
> Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> rockman20@yahoo.com
> 1986 Honda Accord DX
> 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
> 1981 John Deer Snowmobile
> 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
> 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 20:47:39 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: ID'ing a TH350

So I bought this 84 Calais, and the guy who sold it to says he believes that
it has a TH350.  (He had the trans replaced at some point a few years back).
So I crawled under it, and by what I can tell, it is a TH350. The way I know
of ID'ing them is the shape of the pan and the number of bolts.  Well it's
got the shape, and it's got the 14 bolts.  But, are there any other 3 speed
autos that may appear the same.  If it were one of those THM 200's, wouldn't
it say "metric" on the pan?  Can I be certain it's a TH350?  Be real cool if
it is.  I want to rebuild one bad, and it would be real convenient to have
an extra one when I strip this car.  Thanks mans.

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass (hybernating)
84 Calais ($200!)
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 20:51:53 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

- -----Original Message-----

As for a daily driver, I want a "war" vehicle that I dont give a $#$#
about. It has to be quick and responsive (to avoid the idiots), big (to
knock the morons out of my way ;) ) and dependable. Hmmmm....sounds like
an Olds to me! ;)

Kim & Junior ('72 Cutlass Supreme)


Yeah Kim, I just bought myself a war vehicle.  It's an 84 Cutlass Calais.
It's in fair shape at most, and it'd take a lot to make this car nice.  Ir
runs great though!  Basically I got it to pull parts from and drive for the
winter.  Mostly what I want to do is lock up the brakes the next time some
damn hOnda's on my arse.  I've threatened to do that many times, but never
have.  But one of these days I really do hope to.
I feel bad knowing that I'm going to essentially destroy this car and
violate it by taking parts; after all it is an Oldsmobile that has been
living a noble life.  I park it next to my real car in hope that it will see
that it's sacrifing its life for a good cause.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 20:45:10 -0500
From: dgerow@student.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: Screen Saver Wish list

Hello all,

I thanks all of you that have checked out the screen saver.  Also, thank
you for your comments, I do really appreciate it.  If there is a great
enough interest, I will take orders for screen savers of particular Olds
cars/genres.  442, Cutlass, Full size...you name it.  If you got the
pics, then I got the time (not really but what else do college students
do?).  Again, please email me privately at the address below, unless it
fits the list.  Thanks again.

Daniel R. Gerow
http://www.stonehill.edu/~dgerow
dgerow@stonehill.edu
dgerow@student.stonehill.edu

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 19:12:04 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: forged crank

I think it has an N on the #1 crank counter weight.
LP.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Patton <patton@ComCAT.COM>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, January 12, 1999 6:20 PM
Subject: forged crank


>
>List,
>    
>        What are the tell tale signs
>of a forged 455 crank while still in the
>block ??????
>
>Tanks
>The General
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 21:13:21 -0500 (EST)
From: Tom Lardner <lardner@UMDNJ.EDU>
Subject: center caps for sale

4 chrome snap on center caps for 14" (well that's what they came off of)
olds rallye rims. Have olds Delta insignia in them.  Good condition, $35
plus shipping
Tom

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 21:34:28 -0500
From: "George & Joan C. Lesperance" <gal1@MNSi.Net>
Subject: Re: Olds History Center

We received a Chritmas Card from Helen and she says there is lots to do yet
but she is in her new building across form the Convention Centre.  This is
all I know.
                                                    Joan

Arthur Hoffman wrote:

> Hey, anybody know if the Olds History Center is back up and running?  I
> can't remember if it's gone for good, or was starting up again after the
> first of the year....The mind is the first thing to go.
>
> Art
> 67 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 21:45:35 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Blown 403

Peter/List,

Dave Smith Engineering sells a Street Blower Kit:

"complete ready to bolt on, features B&M 174" blower, with manifold and drive
(specify engine, year and model) Part # DS2087

Dave Smith Engineering
P.O. Box 607
Corona, CA 91718
(909) 371-7040

Hope this helps, Take Care!

Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 21:43:54 EST
From: TheBlue67@aol.com
Subject: 67 442 w-30 experimental uhv system

list..............does anyone know more about this uhv system. i have found a
parts car and i believe it has this system on it. did it only come on w-30's?
the car it is on is a supreme convertible. what exactly are the advantages of
the system? i guess im asking what makes it so diffrent and special from the
regular system?? i would like to know as much as possible.

Thanks
Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 21:50:03 EST
From: Ramrod442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hurst/Olds Screen Saver where can i get it

where can i get this screen saver?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 21:52:57 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: forged crank

General/List,

I've noticed (and prior to that had been told) that on a cast crank that if
you look at the parting line where the crank's mold would have separated
there's a thin parting line.  On the other hand, a forged crank will have a
"parting line" somewhere around 1/4" wide -- comes from the forging process.
Also, look for sharp "breaks" on the counterweights, again where the mold
would have separated.  My 330 cranks have a smoother parting line on the
counterweights and the weights themselves are not as angular than a typical
nodular iron 350 crank.

Hope this helps you out, Take Care!
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 21:45:49 -0500
From: "R. Grant" <kgrant442@home.com>
Subject: Re: forged crank

If it has a N on the 1st counter weight it would be a Nodular unit
If you go to 442.com and look in FAQ they will explain it (think it is a F)
not sure of that. I know for sure about the N as the crank that I pulled out
of my 69 350 Rocket has the N.


Kevin Grant
80 Cutlass Supreme


- -----Original Message-----
From: Larry Pegg <nurelic@primenet.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: January 12, 1999 9:21 PM
Subject: Re: forged crank


>I think it has an N on the #1 crank counter weight.
>LP.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Patton <patton@ComCAT.COM>
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Date: Tuesday, January 12, 1999 6:20 PM
>Subject: forged crank
>
>
>>
>>List,
>>
>>        What are the tell tale signs
>>of a forged 455 crank while still in the
>>block ??????
>>
>>Tanks
>>The General
>>
>>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 21:50:19 -0500
From: "R. Grant" <kgrant442@home.com>
Subject: RE Lightning Rod Cable

I need to get the GM part number for the Lightning Rod shifter cable so that
I can order
one from GM


Thanks
Kevin Grant
80 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 21:58:20 EST
From: TheBlue67@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hurst/Olds Screen Saver where can i get it

http://www.stonehill.edu/~dgerow

or if you have aol
<A HREF="http://www.stonehill.edu/~dgerow">Click here</A>

Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 21:12:44 -0600
From: Dan Williams <442much@plutonium.net>
Subject: 1968 442 Vertical Stripe

Does anybody have the measurements for the relocation of the front
fender 442 numerals for the vertical stripe?  I have all of the data on
the location of the stripe and dimensions of the stripe.  I can
approximate the numerals location if necessary.  However, since I have
the factory striping info (just not the exacting drilling locations), I
figured it would make a great JWO article.
- --
Dan Williams                            442Much@plutonium.net
Marion, IA                                     68 442 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 19:09:41 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: forged crank

Patton wrote:
> 
> List,
> 
>         What are the tell tale signs
> of a forged 455 crank while still in the
> block ??????
> 
> Tanks
> The General





General, Sir.

When viewed from the flywheel/flexplate
mounting flange, there is a cutout or
notch on the side of the flange.

Cast cranks have a \__/ shaped cutout.

Forged cranks have a  _____________/
shaped cutout.



Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we
do!) 
Portland  Oregon  503-244-8249

Web Site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 22:38:23 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Batten Vs. Edelbrock

Gary/List,

The only drawback to the Batten heads are there's no availability for street-
type intake manifolds.  Edelbrock used to have a Torker for the small-blocks,
but nothing else and nothing at all now.  If they would make a good dual-plane
intake that would fit I could use the heads on my SCCA Solo I and II project.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 22:32:11 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Desirable front end geometry (NOT!)

Mike/List,

Here's what I know about the 64-72 "A"-Body chassis, and this is from first-
hand experience this time since Grace is a 71 Cutlass (no more coil case
ground stories here.....)

1)  The "A"-Body frame is more desirable than the 73 - 77 frame in classes
where you would have to use the stock lower control arms and could replace the
upper control arms with tubular arms and relocated upper mounts, such as an
IMCA-style modified.  These cars use the frame to just in front of where the
lower control arms for the rear suspension would be mounted.  The 73-77's are
wider, but are heavier and people would rather have light weight than the
extra width (which is desirable in itself).  There's a company in Walker,
Missouri (Dirt Works) that builds an IMCA Modified chassis with the "A"-Body
frames.  Now some are now beginning to build Modifieds with the "Metric"
"A/G"-Body frames, but most contend these are "throw-away" cars, ones that are
junked after significant damage, where an older frame would be repaired.
There are always the odd-ball frame combinations out there (we had one that
was made from a 73 Impala frame!) but this is the typical situation around
here.

2) Although I'd agree with the facts that the 70-72 disc brake spindles are
getting too hard to find, the fact that they are two-piece is more of an asset
in our applications.  In our situation, we could replace the arm with a
different one for Ackerman adjustment.  Before they allowed aftermarket
spindles, the ones to use were from a 68-69 Catalina with disc brakes.  These
also had a replaceable steering arm, and a higher spindle level effectively
lowering the car's front end.  The 73-77 "A"-Body spindles are not adjustable
for Ackerman due to their one-piece construction.

For those who don't know what Ackerman is, it's the difference that one wheel
turns in respect to the other.  Believe me, people spend a lot of time
adjusting Ackerman on their cars here, Lakeside Speedway (1/2 mile asphalt
oval) is known for demanding that the car's suspension be set up as close to
ideal as possible for the best lap times.

I'll be able to answer more questions about the front suspension after we get
Grace done and get out to the track for some real-time testing.  Against the
cookie-cutter late-model Monte's, T-Birds and GP's we'll really stand out!

We have some in-progress pictures posted online, go to
http://members.aol.com/ks7racing/index.htm
and click on the Picture Archive icon in the imagemap for more info on what
we're doing.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 22:47:06 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Centerforce - clutches and flywheels

Paul/List,

I bought my aluminum flywheel from PAW back in '92, it was made by McLeod,
along with my bellhousing, clutch and pressure plate.  The flywheel worked
real well, but now I need to have the steel insert replaced.  It was pretty
thin to begin with, and with us using it on a road racing project now we hope
to replace the insert so we don't have to buy a whole new flywheel.

There's a lot of weight difference between this aluminum one and a stock steel
one, so a rebalancing would be in order.  The McLeod unit also will accept
several sizes of clutches, has plenty of holes for mounting.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 22:59:46 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: ID'ing a TH350

Master Costanzo wrote:
> 
> So I bought this 84 Calais, and the guy who sold it to says he believes that
> it has a TH350.  (He had the trans replaced at some point a few years back).
> So I crawled under it, and by what I can tell, it is a TH350. The way I know
> of ID'ing them is the shape of the pan and the number of bolts.  Well it's
> got the shape, and it's got the 14 bolts.  But, are there any other 3 speed
> autos that may appear the same.  If it were one of those THM 200's, wouldn't
> it say "metric" on the pan?  

As far as I know it should say "metric."  All of the 200s I've seen have
it stamped in the pan.  

Can I be certain it's a TH350?

The surefire way to seperate the men from the boys is the modulator.  A
TH350 has one, a TH200 doesn't.  It looks similar to a distributor
vacuum advance, but it's larger and longer.  It is mounted above the
rear of the pan on the driver's side.  You can see it from underneath
the car with no problem.  It will have a vacuum line running to it.  


Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Surpeme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 23:01:15 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: ID'ing a TH350

Master Costanzo wrote:
> 
> So I bought this 84 Calais, and the guy who sold it to says he believes that
> it has a TH350.  (He had the trans replaced at some point a few years back).
> So I crawled under it, and by what I can tell, it is a TH350. The way I know
> of ID'ing them is the shape of the pan and the number of bolts.  Well it's
> got the shape, and it's got the 14 bolts.  But, are there any other 3 speed
> autos that may appear the same.  If it were one of those THM 200's, wouldn't
> it say "metric" on the pan?  

As far as I know it should say "metric."  All of the 200s I've seen have
it stamped in the pan.  

Can I be certain it's a TH350?

The surefire way to seperate the men from the boys is the modulator.  A
TH350 has one, a TH200 doesn't.  It looks similar to a distributor
vacuum advance, but it's larger and longer.  It is mounted above the
rear of the pan on the driver's side.  You can see it from underneath
the car with no problem.  It will have a vacuum line running to it.  


Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Surpeme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 23:18:46 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: subscribe oldsmobile

subscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 20:29:43 -0800
From: andrewc@novell.uidaho.edu
Subject: 84 delta TH200c woes - revisited

It appears that my th200c transmission is indeed toast. I am 
considering swapping in a TH200-4r. I have heard people 
recommend a th350, but I like the idea of a 4 speed and a better 
rear end gear to get better off the line performance with decent 
highway manners. Does the 200-4r have a different 1st gear ratio 
than the th350? The 200-4r was an option on this car so I would 
think it *should* be a straight forward swap. I am starting to get 
that 'bug' and see this as an opportunity to start building a 'sleeper'. 
Supposedly the 200-4r can be built to take quite a bit more power 
than my current 307 can produce (thinking of the future...) Is this a 
bad idea? Any major road blocks in doing this? Anyone have any 
other thoughts?

Thanks again...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 20:24:59 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: 67 442 w-30 experimental uhv system

TheBlue67@aol.com wrote:
> 
> list..............does anyone know more about this uhv system. i have found a
> parts car and i believe it has this system on it. did it only come on w-30's?
> the car it is on is a supreme convertible. what exactly are the advantages of
> the system? i guess im asking what makes it so diffrent and special from the
> regular system?? i would like to know as much as possible.
> 
> Thanks
> Brent
> 1967 Cutlass Convertible



Brent,

In 1967 Oldsmobile introduced a Capacitor
Discharge
ignition system.  Option code K66.  This was
available
on the 400 (including W-30) and 425 engines. 
Although 
I do not believe this was a factory option on the
330's, 
it certainly could have been added by the dealer
or 
installed with over the counter factory parts.  
The UHV, (Ultra High Voltage) system is an early 
electronic ignition.  These utilized a magnetic
pickup, 
which was triggered in a similar manor as an HEI.  
Although they were (are) a reliable system, it was 
not a particularly popular option.  (Perhaps
people 
preferred points/cond. over this new fangled 
electronic stuff).  It was discontinued in 1968.  
If you are planning on purchasing the setup, be
sure 
to get all of the pieces.  As some individual
components 
are getting somewhat hard to find (read $$$).  
This includes the special red coil.  A similar
system 
was used on late 60's Corvettes.  And was more
popular 
with the Vette buyers.  Consequently, some of the 
distributors internal components are available
through 
suppliers of Corvette parts.  Although Olds used a 
different amplifier than the Corvette, they can be 
repaired by anyone who does the Vette ones.      
Spark plug gap was increased to .045 with the
UHV system.

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we
do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Web Site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 21:25:22 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: forged crank

How good is the nodular unit?  Will it handle some mild abuse I'm thinking
350 375 horse.
LP

ps thanks for catching my goof.  :-)


- -----Original Message-----
From: R. Grant <kgrant442@home.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, January 12, 1999 8:02 PM
Subject: Re: forged crank


>If it has a N on the 1st counter weight it would be a Nodular unit
>If you go to 442.com and look in FAQ they will explain it (think it is a F)
>not sure of that. I know for sure about the N as the crank that I pulled
out
>of my 69 350 Rocket has the N.
>
>
>Kevin Grant
>80 Cutlass Supreme
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Larry Pegg <nurelic@primenet.com>
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Date: January 12, 1999 9:21 PM
>Subject: Re: forged crank
>
>
>>I think it has an N on the #1 crank counter weight.
>>LP.
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Patton <patton@ComCAT.COM>
>>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>>Date: Tuesday, January 12, 1999 6:20 PM
>>Subject: forged crank
>>
>>
>>>
>>>List,
>>>
>>>        What are the tell tale signs
>>>of a forged 455 crank while still in the
>>>block ??????
>>>
>>>Tanks
>>>The General
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 21:30:57 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Desirable front end geometry (NOT!)

Now it all comes togther.  I knew I had heard that my freind was using an A
clip but I didn't know all of the rest.  Thank for clearing this up.
- -----Original Message-----
From: KS7RACING@aol.com <KS7RACING@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, January 12, 1999 8:44 PM
Subject: Re: Desirable front end geometry (NOT!)


>Mike/List,
>
>Here's what I know about the 64-72 "A"-Body chassis, and this is from
first-
>hand experience this time since Grace is a 71 Cutlass (no more coil case
>ground stories here.....)
>
>1)  The "A"-Body frame is more desirable than the 73 - 77 frame in classes
>where you would have to use the stock lower control arms and could replace
the
>upper control arms with tubular arms and relocated upper mounts, such as an
>IMCA-style modified.  These cars use the frame to just in front of where
the
>lower control arms for the rear suspension would be mounted.  The 73-77's
are
>wider, but are heavier and people would rather have light weight than the
>extra width (which is desirable in itself).  There's a company in Walker,
>Missouri (Dirt Works) that builds an IMCA Modified chassis with the
"A"-Body
>frames.  Now some are now beginning to build Modifieds with the "Metric"
>"A/G"-Body frames, but most contend these are "throw-away" cars, ones that
are
>junked after significant damage, where an older frame would be repaired.
>There are always the odd-ball frame combinations out there (we had one that
>was made from a 73 Impala frame!) but this is the typical situation around
>here.
>
>2) Although I'd agree with the facts that the 70-72 disc brake spindles are
>getting too hard to find, the fact that they are two-piece is more of an
asset
>in our applications.  In our situation, we could replace the arm with a
>different one for Ackerman adjustment.  Before they allowed aftermarket
>spindles, the ones to use were from a 68-69 Catalina with disc brakes.
These
>also had a replaceable steering arm, and a higher spindle level effectively
>lowering the car's front end.  The 73-77 "A"-Body spindles are not
adjustable
>for Ackerman due to their one-piece construction.
>
>For those who don't know what Ackerman is, it's the difference that one
wheel
>turns in respect to the other.  Believe me, people spend a lot of time
>adjusting Ackerman on their cars here, Lakeside Speedway (1/2 mile asphalt
>oval) is known for demanding that the car's suspension be set up as close
to
>ideal as possible for the best lap times.
>
>I'll be able to answer more questions about the front suspension after we
get
>Grace done and get out to the track for some real-time testing.  Against
the
>cookie-cutter late-model Monte's, T-Birds and GP's we'll really stand out!
>
>We have some in-progress pictures posted online, go to
>http://members.aol.com/ks7racing/index.htm
>and click on the Picture Archive icon in the imagemap for more info on what
>we're doing.
>
>Take Care,
>Ken Snyder
>Kansas City, Kansas
>KS7RACING@aol.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 00:06:42 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: ID'ing a TH350

>The surefire way to seperate the men from the boys is the modulator.  A
>TH350 has one, a TH200 doesn't.  It looks similar to a distributor
>vacuum advance, but it's larger and longer.  It is mounted above the
>rear of the pan on the driver's side.  You can see it from underneath
>the car with no problem.  It will have a vacuum line running to it.


Correct insofar as the TH 200 has no modulator and the TH350 does.  However,
every modulator I have seen on a TH 350 (or 375, or 400 for that matter) was
on the passenger's side of the car.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 00:25:39 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: ID'ing a TH350

Frederick Nissen wrote:

> Correct insofar as the TH 200 has no modulator and the TH350 does.  However,
> every modulator I have seen on a TH 350 (or 375, or 400 for that matter) was
> on the passenger's side of the car.
> 
> Regards,
> Fred

DOH!  He's right!  I had it backwards!  The modulator is on the
passenger side, not the driver.  Sorry for the confusion.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 00:22:21 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: 84 delta TH200c woes - revisited

While the idea of a four speed is nice, I would strongly recommend you go
with the TH 350.  Cheaper, more durable and pretty much a direct bolt in.
If you do go with the 200 R4, you will want to change your rear end ratio
immediately.  The 307 will not pull OD with a 2.41 rear end except on flat
roads.
Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 23:40:26 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 84 delta TH200c woes - revisited

Yes, the TH200-4R has a "deeper" first gear.  2.71 Vs. 2.53 for the Th350.
It is a very easy swap.  Everything should hook-up (might need a little work
on the lincage, but no big deal).  You will need a cross-member and a
drive-shaft from a 200-4R equiped Delta 88 or Buick LeSabre.  Crossmember
should fit from any TH400 or TH200-4R big car like the Delta or the Regency,
but you driveshaft is limited to the Deltas or those Buicks.  Either way,the
cross-member and the drive shaft are easy to take off and are dirt cheap.
It will, however, cost you much more to build the OD Vs. the TH350.  With
the 2.41, TH350 is a better choice.  If you get 3.73 or even 4.10s the car
would be significantly faster and still retain near the same RPMs on
highway.


>While the idea of a four speed is nice, I would strongly recommend you go
>with the TH 350.  Cheaper, more durable and pretty much a direct bolt in.
>If you do go with the 200 R4, you will want to change your rear end ratio
>immediately.  The 307 will not pull OD with a 2.41 rear end except on flat
>roads.
>Regards,
>Fred


Yes, OD and 2.41s is a lousy set-up.  I have the TH200-4R in my '81 Regency
with 2.56 rear gears and a propane fired 307.  It does not go into OD until
50 MPH at which time the RPMs are 1100 RPM.  At 80 MPH, the RPMs are below
1500 RPM.  Mileage is a bit better cause your foot is a lot deeper to keep
the car going.  At these RPMs there is no power and the 307 (particularly if
it is the roller motor) and it just won't pull.  Your mileage is not much
higher and you will hate driving in OD.  My dad has a friend with a '85
Delta, roller motor, 2.41s and OD.  My '81 Delta with a former 307, 2.41s
and TH250 would have run circles around this car any day.  My '81 Regency on
propane leaves this car in its dust like nothing (yes, we did try it when he
bought the Delta).  I would recommend the TH200-4R and 4.10s if you are
willing to spend money/time.  You would love this set-up even with the 307.
With a 350 or a 403 this car would be a sleeper.

I have a '81 Delta 88 with a mild 455 and a TH400 trans. with 3.23 posi.
The car has ZERO traction but it does rev a little on the highway and I
don't like that.  When I finish the interior on the Delta, I plan to pull
the TH200-4R from my '81 Regency and put the old Delta's TH250 trans.  I
then want to rebuild the OD trans. and put it behind my 455.  I don't want
to spend too much money into this trans, so it lasts 'till it lasts.  If it
proves to be doing OKAY, I would then consider a bigger cam and a set of
3.73s or MAYBE even 4.10s but that would seriously effect my already poor
traction.  Since I put a long-tail TH400 into this car, I had to change the
cross-member and get a custom drive-shaft made.  It was not a big deal and
the setup works great.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 23:41:25 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Blown 403

>"complete ready to bolt on, features B&M 174" blower, with manifold and
drive
>(specify engine, year and model) Part # DS2087


How much? And do they make them for BB?  Igor.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 23:32:00 -0800
From: Shawn Holwegner <shawn@holwegner.com>
Subject: Re: 84 delta TH200c woes - revisited

Hmm, I've had this happen to me recently: I have what was listed as
a 200c when i took my '85 cutlass in which for some odd reason had lost
3rd and reverse (would go WUNK forward when i tried to stop) - it was
literally torn to pieces.

I have overdrive, correct me if im wrong but wasn't it only the 200-R
with overdrive? I thought the 200c didnt have overdrive. [Or am i lacking
in sleep]

On another note I shouldnt have gone for the rebuild (I was still traveling
from Nevada/Cali at the time) - its become rather soft on the shift since
the new oxy sensor, but prev was harder than before the changeout, and doesnt
have the thrust the old one did (Im sure it was trashed, but i was somehow
getting 90mph without the feter being 1/2 down... now since the 'california
emissions' mods, im damn lucky if it will go uphill [Ok, maybe im slightly
exaturating].

- - S 
- -- 
#$Bourne compatible .sig,v1.003 1998/12/09 09:16:32 shawn Exp $
set `date +"cc echo ./a.out rm Funja Ubyjrtare /tmp/t.c
main(a){while(a=~getchar())putchar(~a-1/(~(a|32)/13*2-11)*13);}"`;
$2 $8>$7;g$1 $7||$1 $7;$2 $5 $6, rznvy: $5@$6.Pbz.|$3;$4 $3 $7

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 08:41:30 -0500
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@pa.net>
Subject: Re: beater vs restored

I am a little late on this thread .... but 

I have an 81 Cutlass that is my daily driver ...
My plan is to restore and keep as a daily driver.

Reason: A restored car is higher in value and will
continue to hold and appreciate in value.
A restored daily driver is also safer and more 
pleasing to the owner ... a car is more than a car
when there is some of your effort and pride in it.

Besides ... it's an OLDS ... lets treat them with love.

Ken Swick
swickka@pa.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 08:58:46 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: Re: Detonation problem

>Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 10:41:48 EST
>From: EDZX6@aol.com
>Subject: Detonation problem

>I recently posted my detonation problem, I still haven't solved the problem
>but I wanted to specify where in the FAQ I found the timing figures which I
>was using.
>Example, full advance at 1500 rpm for a std transmission.

I think you are talking distributor rpm and not engine rpm here, right?
You are correct that you should have full advance at 1500 dist. rpm which is
3000 engine rpm. Most of the 66-72 V-8 olds was factory set to have full
advance in as soon as 3000 up to 4200 engine rpm.

Someone may have already brought this point up but, I'm on digest mode and
sometimes I'm I am a little late for the show.

Note: 68 toro/442 455 4 bbl   = 3000 rpm (eng.) >>dist #1111289/1111292
      68 non-toro 455 4 bbl   = 3600 rpm               #1111469
      68 455 2 bbl (in what?) = 4000 rpm               #1111288
	all 66-67 425's         = 4000-4100 rpm 

Plus other specs I have show other years are basically the same as these
listings.

IMHO, point dist. are high maintenance items and need/should be replaced
with HEI models for many reasons.
As far as HEI goes, does anyone have some factory specs of when the total
advance occurs on different dist #'s?

I have a Motor's service manual that shows me 66-72 specs if anyone needs
them.   
 

Donny Arnold
w.d.arnold@lmco.com

72  Olds 442  
41 Chevy 
63 Chevy Truck

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 09:37:11 EST
From: Lou0118@aol.com
Subject: Hustst/Olds Screen Saver

Dan Gerow listed a web site for the screen saver software he used to create
that great Hurst/Olds screen saver, but it appears that the address is
incorrect. The correct address is:

http://www.stardustsoftware.com

I just downloaded it and set a 442 screen saver.  However it is only a 7 day
trial version.  Dan may have the full version.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 09:38:22 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: subscribe oldsmobile

subscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 09:57:12 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: FS: '61 F85, '65 Cutlass conv., & '61 Starfire conv.

From the newsgroups...

If interested, e-mail the people directly, NOT TO ME OR THE LIST.

>>
>>Subject: 1961 OLDSMOBILE F85
>>V8,215,p.c.,inspectionBVA,excellente condition
>>
 --------------------------------------------------------------
>>  This article was posted at the request of the author
>>  by EPage, http://ep.com/
>>  The URL for this article is:
>>                http://ep.com/ep/mi.html?ad=177051
>> --------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>
>
>>1965 Oldsmobile Cutlass Conv Restored Classic
>>
>>Fully restored beauty. Gray ext/Burgundy int, black
>>top, Auto on floor, factory tach, 455ci eng, True
>>Spoke wire wheels, Goodyear Red Line tires, lots of
>>extras. A real head turner! Show or go.
>>
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------------------
>>  This article was posted at the request of the author
>>  by EPage, http://ep.com/
>>  The URL for this article is:
>>                http://ep.com/ep/mi.html?ad=177331
>> --------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>
>
>Need to Sell 1961 Olds Starfire Conv.. Restored and Loaded.
>Priced reduced to $8500. 
>Check it out at 
>Http://beaver.vinu.edu/starfire.htm
>
>cschnar@kimball.com or jwolf@indian.vinu.edu
>           (812) 634-9696 or (812) 882-8666

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 09:33:30 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

Well, I go for driving, after all that's what it's for.  I firmly
believe you can have a nice car and still use the thing..  Of course,
right now, I drive a brown car with a white door, but it's nice,
comfortable, adn fun, and maybe I'll actually mold my two 75's back into
one nice one, which I'll still drive, even in winter (Dad owns car wash,
and I got a house with heatable garage, I can wash anytime, any
temperature).  Nothing against show cars, but to me a nice car get's
DOUBLE my appreciation if it's actually used.  A lot of these 'so
called' classic 'they don't make them like that anymore' cars would fall
apart if driven even once a week...  Whereas, most Cutlasses I see are
actually still driving, making some use of therselves.  When's the last
time you seen a Satellite or Camaro or Charger getting out on the
highway moday morning at 6:00 AM????

Doesn't often happen....

my .03

Eric Aksomitis
http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/cut_bl.shtml  
http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/gobstop.shtml


Robert Barry wrote:
> I was just wondering which route people here have taken with their
> Cutlasses; it seems you have to make a choice either to make your ride like
> new, and restrict the driving due to the wear and tear and dirt and grime
> that undo the careful restoration, or leave it pretty rough and enjoy
> driving it without worries under any kind of conditions.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 10:50:32 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

You can guess where Karl stands!

Snipped for a hearty "Ditto!"

<<  A lot of these 'so called' classic 'they don't make them like that
anymore' cars would fall apart if driven even once a week...  Whereas, most
Cutlasses I see are
 actually still driving, making some use of therselves.  When's the last time
you seen a Satellite or Camaro or Charger getting out on the highway moday
morning at 6:00 AM???? >>

Actually some Illiana residents might have noticed a vintage Oldsmobile make
an unbelievable recovery from a near-spinout on the interstate.... Not that
Karl would do anything on the road in this weather that would cause such a
situation...

The problem with these drivable cars is that some "fixes" hinder them from
getting timeslips....

Keep warm!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 11:23:11 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

> actually still driving, making some use of therselves.  When's the last
> time you seen a Satellite or Camaro or Charger getting out on the
> highway moday morning at 6:00 AM????
> 
Ahhh, monday .... saw a 71 GS painted yellow with the GSX rear spoiler, was
kinda rought though, but still.  Sorry, just thought I'd add some worthless
babble.

My only beef is with trailer queens.  Why?  I'm of the belief "drive your
cars".  I can understand like a 69 H/O convert being on the trailer, but if
I owned one of the two, I'd still drive it on occasion, like to a nearby car
show or cruise in, definitely not daily driven though.  When my GTO gets
done (sometime) it will be driven daily pretty much, except in snow of
course.  The W-31 will be an occasional daily driver probably (like how I
invent all these daily driver categories :)  I'll try and drive it once a
week to work and it'll be driven on the weekends of course.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris/

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 12:09:57 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions? (Kinda long but not really)

<CHOPPED>

>apart if driven even once a week...  Whereas, most Cutlasses I see are
>actually still driving, making some use of therselves.  When's the last
>time you seen a Satellite or Camaro or Charger getting out on the
>highway moday morning at 6:00 AM????
>
>Doesn't often happen....
>
>my .03
>
>Eric Aksomitis
>
- --------------------------------

I agree that cars should be driven. I run the hell out of mine. All I own
and drive are old cars. You say when's the last time you seen a Camaro
getting out on the highway moday morning at 6:00 AM???? Well I see it
everyday. I have a '70 Camaro, cranberry red with black SS stripes,
355/automatic, 10 bolt w/3.73 gears and black interior. It's no slapped
together beater either. It would fit right in and turn heads at any cruise
night and it's no slug when you get on it either. For bad weather, which
we've had here lately, I drive my trusty old '78 International Harvester
Scout II. 345/automatic 4x4. It's rough but it's a tank in the snow. My
other two are Dr.Olds Machines. 2 '74 Omega's. One 2 dr hatchback with the
S package and one 2 dr coupe I've had for 11 years. Both are 455 rockets
(the coupe a 4spd) and currently in progress. I can't wait to get 'em done.
I've owned several later model cars and got rid of 'em all to buy another
old car. Such as '84 and '88 Trans Ams, '82 Omega, and I sold a real nice
'94 Cavalier to by my current '70 Camaro. I've thought about trading or
selling my Camaro for a nice '68-'72 442 or Cutlass to drive daily but I
haven't found 'My' car yet. When I get my hatchback done (should be by this
spring) that'll be my daily grocery getter. Maybe then I'll sell the
Camaro. But I'm definitely a DRIVER enthusiast. A car's only worth what
someone is willing to pay you for it. Say you got a pee green blank and
blank all original with only 10,000 miles on it and there were only 3 ever
made with the pee green paint and a 2bbl carb. We'll you say the 'book'
says it's worth $60,000. And you spend your life pushing it out of the
heated garage to polish it every other day and tote it around at 30mph in
an enclosed trailer to car shows and put "Do not touch" signs all over it
and a little rope barrier around it so people don't breathe on it. Then you
proudly sit in a lawn chair and look at it as people walk by it mumbling
bla bla bla "boy that pee green paint is ugly" bla bla bla. Then you and
two buddies put on your cotton shammy gloves and push it back in the
trailer so you can take it home, polish it and push it back in the carpeted
garage. Pretty soon your old and grey and what do you have to look back on.
You didn't have any fun. Drive the thing. Dump the clutch, slam it to the
floor and lay a patch. 

Ed
The Omega Man

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 09:14:49 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: RE: Centerforce - clutches and flywheels

>and I still need to find a clutch fork.
I would think (always dangerous) that GM clutch forks from the late 60s/early
70s are all
pretty much the same.  Olds and Pontiac used the same one in 70 A bodies.
Does anyone have
an interchange manual handy to check this out?

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 9:37 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: desirable front end geometry (NOT)

   I don't know for sure why those A-body front ends are common in 
racing, but here are a few possibilities. Maybe the dimensions (track 
width, etc) suit the rules? Certainly costs are low and parts are 
easily available. As someone else (Mike?) said the suspensions are 
probably not used in stock form for racing.  Also note that when 
extremely stiff racing coil springs are used and the wheel travel 
correspondingly reduced the problem of camber change with wheel travel 
decreases.

   I do know one major reason why Mopar front ends are not more 
commonly used - all the Mopar front ends with the good suspension 
geometry use longtitudinal torsion bars, i.e. the torsion bars (which 
are the front springs) are parallel to the car centreline and run on 
either side of the driveshaft to a rear anchor somewhere under the 
front seats.  Hence it is harder to transplant these front ends to a 
non-Mopar car - it is not just a matter of swapping in a new front 
subframe, but also of fabricating the torsion bar rear anchors.  Until 
a few years ago there was also a shortage of stiffer bars for racing, 
though Mopar Performance now has a variety of thicknesses available.

   Some late '70's - mid 80's Mopars used torsion bars bent through a 
right-angle, and anchored to the front subframe, so the entire front 
suspension is in fact contained in one easy-to-transplant piece. 
Unfortunately, these front ends have lousy geometry as the bent 
torsion bars cause some weird things to happen to the camber :( , so 
they're not worth transplanting.

   I know next to nothing about the Pinto / Mustang II front end - I 
thought the main reason for their popularity had to do with their 
having rack-and-pinion steering as opposed to most American cars 
recirculating-ball steering.


   
- -John Carri

'72 Supreme
'73 Plymouth Road Runner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 13:27:29 EST
From: Lou0118@aol.com
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

In a message dated 01/13/1999 11:30:16 AM Eastern Standard Time,
SemantanaC@tce.com writes:

<< My only beef is with trailer queens.  Why?  I'm of the belief "drive your
 cars".  I can understand like a 69 H/O convert being on the trailer, but if
 I owned one of the two, I'd still drive it on occasion, like to a nearby car
 show or cruise in, definitely not daily driven though.  >>

I'm with you, I don't like trailer queens either.  Someone once told me that's
like having full size models.  I've only had my 69 442 W-30 since December and
have had it out only twice because of the weather.  It was a body off resto
that was done several years ago and the guy never drove it much so it's in
great condition.  

I plan to go to plenty of car show and cruises and I will take it to work on
nice days in the spring, summer and fall. I bought the car to drive and enjoy
it, not to keep it covered in the garage.

That my .02

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 11:23 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: ignition coil grounding..

     An ignition coil, as everyone knows, has a primary (low-voltage) 
winding, and a secondary (high-voltage) winding. That means there are 
FOUR wires to deal with, yet the coil only has three terminals -
the (+) and (-) primary terminals, and the high-voltage terminal that 
the distributor wire goes into.  The explanation is that one end of 
BOTH windings are connected to the (+) terminal.  That's why the 
actual case of the coil typically does not need to be grounded, though 
doing so might decrease RF interference radiated by the coil and 
improve your radio reception, etc.


+ 12 V 
- ----------------------------------
        |    |                (secondary and primary commoned
 coil   / || > coil            at coil + terminal)  
 pri    \ || > secondary
        / || >
        \ || >
        / || >
        |    |
        |    --------------> high voltage to distributor centre wire
         \      
 points    \
        |
        |
- -----------------------------------
Ground


- -John Carri

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 14:21:24 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Batten Vs. Edelbrock

Not likely to happen as this might allow people to buy the batten heads
instead of ~thiers~.  Do you think it was mere coincidence that they
dropped the batten intake and came out with thier own heads?

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

>The only drawback to the Batten heads are there's no availability for
street-
>type intake manifolds.  Edelbrock used to have a Torker for the
small-blocks,
>but nothing else and nothing at all now.  If they would make a good
dual-plane
>intake that would fit I could use the heads on my SCCA Solo I and II
project.
>
>Take Care,
>Ken Snyder
>Kansas City, Kansas
>KS7RACING@aol.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 14:40:04 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

Hmmm, "war" vehicle.  Actually I already have all the plans for the "war
wagon" I want.  Late 70's blazer, 4wd, lift, and big tires so I can run over
anything in my way.  Can buy these used for cheap around here.  The
ultimate goal is to not have any straight body panels (can be very difficult
to get a good dent on the roof!).  The important ingredient is a couple of
"accesories" for dealing with your average idiots.  Most important is the
front push bumper off an old wrecker.  Another one is a set of 1,000 watt
off road lights set below the rear bumper at about eye level in a car.  For
those jerks that love to tailgate, one flip of the switch and they'll get
the idea.
Also the old lowrider trick for mounting a spark plug in the tailpipe so it
shoots flames would be cool to give these tailgaters something else to
look at.  The ulitimate beater!

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/


>As for a daily driver, I want a "war" vehicle that I dont give a $#$#
>about. It has to be quick and responsive (to avoid the idiots), big (to
>knock the morons out of my way ;) ) and dependable. Hmmmm....sounds like
>an Olds to me! ;)
>
>Kim & Junior ('72 Cutlass Supreme)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 15:47:20 EST
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

In a message dated 99-01-13 13:29:42 EST, you write:

>
>In a message dated 01/13/1999 11:30:16 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>SemantanaC@tce.com writes:
>
><< My only beef is with trailer queens.  Why?  I'm of the belief "drive your
> cars".  I can understand like a 69 H/O convert being on the trailer, but if
> I owned one of the two, I'd still drive it on occasion, like to a nearby car
> show or cruise in, definitely not daily driven though.  >>
>
>

as a funny side note to trailer queens,  i once saw a camaro at a car show,
you know,  the kind they have jacked up on stands with the wheels off and
mirrors underneath it so you can see what they spent all there time and money
on!   any how, the motor and eng. compartment, suspension, ect., ect., was
covered in plating.  most was chrome, but there was some GOLD!!  a fellow on
looker asked how the car ran, and if he had ever gotten on it.(was it fast!)
the guys reply was i dont know, i dont drive the car except on and off the
trailer, and then we push it around for display.     on looker: what kind of
parts did you put in the motor?       reply: i didnt,  the motor is one i
picked up at a salvage, then drained it of any oil.   i dont care how it runs,
it`s just for looks!    i stepped in and asked why he drained it of oil and
his reply was so he didnt get oil leaks later on.   nobody drives cars like
this on the street.      on looker:  whats the use of having the car of your
dreams if you cant drive it??????     reply:  I DONT KNOW !!!!!! ,  end of
conversation.      my thoughts were, an expensive model!     im just glad it
wasn`t an olds, now that would have been crime!    ;o]     steven,
w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 15:13:01 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: forged crank

The cast cranks use the typically higher quality iron as used in
the blocks and heads (which degraded more the higher the 
year of the motor) but the nodular was even better and kind of
middle ground between cast and forged.  The nodular crank 
will withstand 375 hp no problem.  You would have problems
with the 2 bolt mains before the crank becomes a weak link.
I ran a nodular crank in my 72 350 which was pushing around
420 hp with no problems.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/


 
>How good is the nodular unit?  Will it handle some mild abuse I'm thinking
>350 375 horse.
>LP

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 16:44:18 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

This wasn't a blue (Camaro?) was it? Saw one at a show last weekend on
stands with the wheels off. Thought they were trying to sell brakes or
something...

 i once saw a camaro at a car show,
>you know,  the kind they have jacked up on stands with the wheels off and
>mirrors underneath it so you can see what they spent all there time and money
>on!   any how, the motor and eng. compartment, suspension, ect., ect., was
>covered in plating.  most was chrome, but there was some GOLD!!  a fellow on
>looker asked how the car ran, and if he had ever gotten on it.(was it fast!)
>the guys reply was i dont know, i dont drive the car except on and off the
>trailer, and then we push it around for display.     on looker: what kind of
>parts did you put in the motor?       reply: i didnt,  the motor is one i
>picked up at a salvage, then drained it of any oil.   i dont care how it runs,
>it`s just for looks!    i stepped in and asked why he drained it of oil and
>his reply was so he didnt get oil leaks later on.   nobody drives cars like
>this on the street.      on looker:  whats the use of having the car of your
>dreams if you cant drive it??????     reply:  I DONT KNOW !!!!!! ,  end of
>conversation.      my thoughts were, an expensive model!     im just glad it
>wasn`t an olds, now that would have been crime!    ;o]     steven,
>w30442cs@aol.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 16:46:53 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: <2nd clue> Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"? 

O.K.

Got kind of warm around here today, so I fired up the car and drove around
the block. When I got back, I disconnected the pos. battery terminal while
the car was running and it died.

Always heard that if a car did this, it had a bad alternator. In this case,
the alternator is brand new.

Additional thoughts? 

TIA again.



Christopher K. Casteel, P.E.
EARTH SCIENCE ENGINEERING, LLC
Clarksville, Tennessee
(931) 645-8008
(931) 645-0237
earthsci@usit.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 17:44:17 -0500
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <tjacquillard@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: <2nd clue> Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"?

C Casteel wrote:
> 
> O.K.
> 
> Got kind of warm around here today, so I fired up the car and drove around
> the block. When I got back, I disconnected the pos. battery terminal while
> the car was running and it died.
> 
> Always heard that if a car did this, it had a bad alternator. In this case,
> the alternator is brand new.
> 
> Additional thoughts?
It doesn't always mean a bad alternator, it just means that the charging
system isn't working correctly. Check all connections. Check to make
sure the grounding system is in tack. This can be a real headache, but
the best way is to stop thinking about what it couldn't be and look for
anything. I haven't followed this thread from the beginning, so I don't
know all details. Someone who has may have more info. good luck.
T.J.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 17:52:36 EST
From: B67442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions? (Kinda long but not really)

In a message dated 99-01-13 12:11:01 EST, ggilpin@wrallp.com writes:

<<  Pretty soon your old and grey and what do you have to look back on.
 You didn't have any fun. Drive the thing. Dump the clutch, slam it to the
 floor and lay a patch. 
  >>
Smok'em if you got'em ED!!!

   BOB PETERS
67 442
72Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 13 Jan 1999 18:03:29 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions? (Kinda long but not really)

Bob and List

        Amen! I would have it no other way. I like to look at a perfect frame
off job, and there is a place for these cars, but I have no problems drag
racing my 67 W-30 and my soon to be frame off 66 W-30. If you can't drive it
and enjoy it for what it is I would rather not have it. I will trailer mine to
shows any distance over 50 miles only due to the 4.11 rear gear. Bring on the
5.0's.

Jim Chermack

At 05:52 PM 1/13/99 , you wrote:
>In a message dated 99-01-13 12:11:01 EST, ggilpin@wrallp.com writes:
>
><<  Pretty soon your old and grey and what do you have to look back on.
> You didn't have any fun. Drive the thing. Dump the clutch, slam it to the
> floor and lay a patch. 
>  >>
>Smok'em if you got'em ED!!!
>
>   BOB PETERS
>67 442
>72Cutlass

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1716
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