Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.Ca @ INTERNET
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cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1781


oldsmobile-digest     Tuesday, February 16 1999     Volume 01 : Number 1781



Re: MAIL LIST
RE: Pushrods (non- Ch*tty or Sommerville) was: Roller Rockers.
Re: MAIL LIST
RE: New member, and a small prob(long)
Re: MAIL LIST
mail list
Ebay:is that an authentic "C" head?
Re: MAIL LIST
Ignition Ring
"C" head on Ebay.
Re: 67 330 cams
Re: mail list
Re: Ebay:is that an authentic "C" head?
Power Steering Services (was: RE: New member, and a small prob (long))
Re: RE: MAIL LIST
belt replacement
RE: Power Steering Services (was: RE: New member, and a small pro b (long))
Re: day dreaming
Re: MAIL LIST
Re: MAIL LIST
Re: belt replacement
RE: day dreaming
Re: belt replacement
Re: MAIL LIST
Re: 67 330 cams
Re: belt replacement
Re: belt replacement
measuring intake was:Re: Part numbers
Re: belt replacement
Re: Power Steering Services (was: RE: New member, and a small prob(long))
RE: MAIL LIST
Parts FS
Re:Pony Car
Re: MAIL LIST
Re: MAIL LIST
Re: "C" head on Ebay.
Re: 67 330 cams
Re: MAIL LIST
Re: MAIL LIST
Cutlass front end
Re: 67 330 cams
Re: "C" head on Ebay.
Re: gm part # 9787069 clutch fork
Re: MAIL LIST
Re: 67 330 cams
Re: belt replacement
Re: day dreaming
Re: day dreaming
The Top 10 Muscle Cars
Re: 67 330 cams
Re: The Top 10 Muscle Cars
Re: MAIL LIST
Re: day dreaming
Re: MAIL LIST
Re: dash change of color
Re: Meineke Burnout
Re: Ebay:is that an authentic "C" head?
Re: Power Steering Services (was: RE: New member, and a small pro b (long))
Re: Part numbers/intake measurements
FS:  '57-'67 Olds Parts

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 13:54:59 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: MAIL LIST

OldsRokkit@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 2/16/99, 9:59:26 AM, oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca writes:
> 
> <<Probably drives a Yugo!!!!>>
> 
> Is that even possible?  I thought they were all extinct by now.


Nope I know where you can get a good deal on a low mileage one if my
friend's junk yard (I know, I know) still has it.  He was going to give
to his exwife in the divorce, but she took hi restored 68 Camaro
instead.  And was he ever P O'ed!  Anyway I think he still has the fine
little car.......  Not much demand for parts you know......

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 11:55:34 -0700
From: olds442 <olds442@digitaldune.net>
Subject: RE: Pushrods (non- Ch*tty or Sommerville) was: Roller Rockers.

Actually, If I may interject here... The primary purpose of the pushrods 
being hollow is to allow the oil to be channeled up through them and on top 
of the rockers to keep them oiled. Without the oil, the rockers would weld 
to their fulcrums and hence no opening and closing of valves... I don't 
know how they do it with an overhead cam, but for the big boys, they are 
hollow not only for the strength and weight, but mainly to keep our rockers 
moving

Ben

- -----Original Message-----
From:	Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM [SMTP:Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM]
Sent:	Tuesday, February 16, 1999 9:00 AM
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:	Re: Pushrods (non- Ch*tty or Sommerville) was: Roller Rockers.


> From: KarlAunan@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Pushrods (non- Ch*tty or Sommerville) was: Roller Rockers.
>
> Are pushrods hollow tubes?

K;
Yes, because of weight, plus I believe they're stronger, "Q" for Joe, are
they?. Main reason is weight as you were saying.
Lou
___________

Pushrods are hollow tubes to reduce the reciprocating weight of the
valvetrain.  One of the limiting factors in how high you can rev the motor
before valve float is the weight (and therefore inertia) in the valvtrain.

The one thing you need to understand is that strenght and stiffness are two
very different things.  Strength is the ability of a material to resist
failure through fracture or shear and (for a given material) is primarily a
function of cross sectional area.  Stiffness is the ability of an item to
resist bending loads and again, for a given material, is a function of not
only cross section area but also cross section shape.  The further away
from the center that the material is placed, the stiffer the item is.
That's why (for the same cross sectional area) an "I" beam is stiffer in
bending than a solid bar, though both would have the same strength.

The stiffness of a cylindrical column (as in, a pushrod) increases in
proportion to diameter to the fourth power, but weight only goes up with
diameter squared.  The result is that virtually all of the stiffness of the
pushrod comes from the material at the outside, so it only makes sense to
remove the material in the center.  Since strength, (both tensile and
compressive), only goes with the cross sectional area, you can see that a
solid pushrod with the same strength as a tubular one will have
significanly less diameter and thus less stiffness.  Conversely a solid
pushrod with the same bending stiffness as a tubular one will weigh
significantly more.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 14:06:18 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: MAIL LIST

From the sound of his message he probably drives one of those
rice-burners with yellow stickers all over it blowing blue smoke out of
a four-inch tailpipe tip.  But, I'm not one to talk bad about anyone. 
Gone to wash the Cutlass now.
Brian.

Marc Leizza wrote:
> 
> Probably drives a Yugo!!!!
> 
>         -----Original Message-----
>         From:   Gene Gilpin [SMTP:ggilpin@wrallp.com]
>         Sent:   Tuesday, February 16, 1999 9:56 AM
>         To:     oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>         Subject:        Re: MAIL LIST
> 
>         This guy probably drives a Ford Festiva!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 13:11:20 -0600
From: Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com
Subject: RE: New member, and a small prob(long)

Joe - have you actually used this source...or anybody else out there?

I gonna have this done in the near future and need some feedback.


Mickey
'68 Cutlass "S" Conv

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM [SMTP:Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM]
> Sent:	Tuesday, February 16, 1999 10:55 AM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	RE: New member, and a small prob(long)
> 
> Meant loose as in I have to spin the wheel about 60 times(or so it
> seems)
> to turn a corner, then another 60 times to bring it back.
> 
> Ben Markert, aka Lord Radu Lykan
> _______
> 
> Pull the box and send it to Power Steering Services (417-864-6676,
> Springfield Missouri   http://www.powersteering.com).
> 
> For $200 they will rebuild your box with quick ratio 12:1 gears.  They
> do
> excellent work and the quick ratio box will greatly improve steering
> feel.
> Just keep in mind that unless the front end has been rebuilt, a car
> that
> old will likely have worn parts throughout the suspension and steering
> linkage.  The box by itself will obviously not correct all the
> steering
> feel problems.
> 
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
> 
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 69 442
> 70 W-30
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 12:13:31 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: MAIL LIST

Don Sowers wrote:
> 
> OldsRokkit@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > In a message dated 2/16/99, 9:59:26 AM, oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca writes:
> >
> > <<Probably drives a Yugo!!!!>>
> >
> > Is that even possible?  I thought they were all extinct by now.
> 
> Nope I know where you can get a good deal on a low mileage one if my
> friend's junk yard (I know, I know) still has it.  He was going to give
> to his exwife in the divorce, but she took hi restored 68 Camaro
> instead.  And was he ever P O'ed!  Anyway I think he still has the fine
> little car.......  Not much demand for parts you know......

The P*nt*s were unibodies and the Maverwrecks had a frame correct?  Since I
have 2 old cars and 2 sons I've always assumed that they could each have one
and I would build my own AC kit car.

It would be a AC Rocket just as if Oldsmobile had collaborated with AC instead
of F*rd.  Take one spare Olds engine and couple it to a rebuilt TH400 I have
sitting on the floor, drop it into a small framed car and add the fiberglass. 
Two, three weeks of work, tops!

We now return to reality.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 14:11:53 -0500
From: "Eckart, Douglas A. SFC" <eckartd@emh.gordon.army.mil>
Subject: mail list

Did someone say this guy was not real mature or real manure?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 14:19:01 EST
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Ebay:is that an authentic "C" head?

Single head,
At first look, red color looks wrong, cannot positivly spot "C" in picture of
head.

Anyone?

is this a "C" head?

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 14:20:58 -0500
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: MAIL LIST

>> > > In a message dated 2/16/99, 9:59:26 AM, oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca 
writes:
> > >
> > > <<Probably drives a Yugo!!!!>>
> > >

Nah, he doesn't have that much class -- He prolly has a Trabant!

Cliff Simpson Asks:

> The P*nt*s were unibodies and the Maverwrecks had a frame correct?  Since I
> have 2 old cars and 2 sons I've always assumed that they could each have one
> and I would build my own AC kit car.


Pinto (Beans), Mauve-ricks, and Disgustangs all are unibodies.
As are F-bodies, past & present, Chevy II/Beaumont/Nova incarnations.
In fact, all so-called pony cars were/are uni-body.

Now, if'n you're talking *muscle* cars...



Tim Churchill  tchurchill@draper.com  OCA #30327  Framingham, MA
- ----------------------------------------------------------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, new a.k.a 'Old Gold'
'98 VW Passat GLS Wagon, a.k.a. 'der Kinderwagen'

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 13:25:46 -0600
From: Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com
Subject: Ignition Ring

I am missing a piece that goes around the ignition, on the dash, of my
'68 Cutlass "S".

I saw a guy advertising an "chrome ignition ring" out on Ebay.

He says it screws in and the special tool comes with it.

Does this sound right???


He wants $25 for it..........

Please Help.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 14:21:15 EST
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: "C" head on Ebay.

Sorry, tha is item 66571483.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 13:24:45 -0600
From: Shang <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: 67 330 cams

IMHO the 280H would be too much for a 330. I had a 270H in my 350 and
that was pushing the limit of too big for me. With an even smaller bore
in the 330, plus another 6deg of duration @ .050 lift, the idle in the
330 would be VERY choppy. Keeping in mind that the small block Olds
isn't exactly a torque monster, I feel you would lose everything below
2500 in a 330. Make one heck of a high RPM snot rocket tho ;) Just my
thoughts.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

Jeff Mullenix wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> 
>    Just curious,  I am putting a 67, 330 in my 85 442.  Laying up the 307.
> I am wondering on the lists thoughts of a 280H comp cam in the 330.  How
> radical would it be and what kind of horse power and torque will I be
> looking at. The engine is a 67 330, 2 bbl. and putting the 307 aluminum 4
> bbl intake on.  What else should I look out for when swapping this engine
> for the original 307.  I do know that I need to use the 307 exhaust
> manifolds and I am using the original intake.  Also using the original
> tranny out of the 85.  Any other inputs would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks
> Jeff
> 
> 70 4spd conv.
> 85 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 22:45:32 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: mail list

there ya go...KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: Eckart, Douglas A. SFC <eckartd@emh.gordon.army.mil>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, February 16, 1999 1:15 PM
Subject: mail list


>Did someone say this guy was not real mature or real manure?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 22:47:19 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Ebay:is that an authentic "C" head?

could be off a late 60s 455 they tended to have them and were red...KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: KarlAunan@aol.com <KarlAunan@aol.com>
To: Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, February 16, 1999 1:20 PM
Subject: Ebay:is that an authentic "C" head?


>Single head,
>At first look, red color looks wrong, cannot positivly spot "C" in picture
of
>head.
>
>Anyone?
>
>is this a "C" head?
>
>SOM
>
>&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 14:26:57 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Power Steering Services (was: RE: New member, and a small prob (long))

Joe - have you actually used this source...or anybody else out there?

I gonna have this done in the near future and need some feedback.


Mickey
'68 Cutlass "S" Conv
________

Yes, I had them rebuild the box in my truck.  Also, Tom Simmons (among
others) has had the 12:1 conversion done on their boxes, all with excellent
results.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 15 Feb 1999 22:50:16 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: RE: MAIL LIST

Yeah I saw a lot of em in sarajevo that used to be the capital of YUGOslavia
was there during their war very tense time but every other car on the road
was a YUGO odd......
- -----Original Message-----
From: Semantana Chris (ONEX) <SemantanaC@tce.com>
To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, February 16, 1999 12:22 PM
Subject: RE: RE: MAIL LIST


>
>> <<Probably drives a Yugo!!!!>>
>>
>> Is that even possible?  I thought they were all extinct by now.
>>
>>
>Especially since the country is.
>I've actually seen a running (driving and going down the road under it's
own
>power) Yugo last fall.  Was astonished to say the least.
>
>Chris Smetana
>Terre Haute, IN
>http://www.abcs.com/chris/
>
>1969 W-31
>1969 4-4-2 parts car
>plus others

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 14:35:54 -0500
From: Charles Sullivan <csullivan@foidc.com>
Subject: belt replacement

This is an embarrassing question, but I'm replacing the belts for the
first time and having trouble figuring out how one of them gets
loosened.

I've got a 1972 Cutlass, 350 with AC.  The AC belt and the alternator
belt come right off, but the there's a 3rd one in the middle (power
steering I assume) that is mystifying me.  There's a bolt at around 1
o'clock behind the top right pulley that seems to be on a groove that I
loosened.  What am I missing?

Many thanks in advance.

Charles Sullivan
1972 Cutlass
csullivan@foidc.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 13:46:57 -0600
From: Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com
Subject: RE: Power Steering Services (was: RE: New member, and a small pro b 
(long))

Thanks....now who wants to help me pull the darn thing out?????

Mickey
'68 Cutlass "S" Conv

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM [SMTP:Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM]
> Sent:	Tuesday, February 16, 1999 1:27 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	Power Steering Services (was: RE: New member, and a
> small prob (long))
> 
> Joe - have you actually used this source...or anybody else out there?
> 
> I gonna have this done in the near future and need some feedback.
> 
> 
> Mickey
> '68 Cutlass "S" Conv
> ________
> 
> Yes, I had them rebuild the box in my truck.  Also, Tom Simmons (among
> others) has had the 12:1 conversion done on their boxes, all with
> excellent
> results.
> 
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
> 
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 69 442
> 70 W-30
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 14:52:01 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: day dreaming

I've been thinking about this for a while too. Take an S-10 and replace
the front clip with a Bravada front clip. Swap in an Olds 350/th350 with
some decent gears. Put some SSII's on it. Then you could call it the
"B-10", "O-10", "Trucklass", "S-442", "OldsmoTruck", the possibilities
are endless. 


Ed Binnix wrote:
> 
> 
> Here's some fodder for the list.
> 
> I had a vision of a Ch*vy S-10, the base junk motor had been removed, a 455
> and 4L80 transmission had been put in it's place. 4.56 gears were installed
> in the rear end. The grill and all the ch*vy identification had been
> removed. In there place was the grill from an Olds SUV (whatever they call
> that thing) which is just a S-10 based Olds, and the new Olds emblems in
> place of the bow ties. The Ultimate parts hauler. A big block Olds
> mini-truck. A one of a kind that looked like it came from the factory.
> Aaaaahhhhh! Now if only I were rich.
> Hey Lou, don't you have an S-10?

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***********************
'70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
'73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
'75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 11:51:12 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: MAIL LIST

<snip>I had just
> encountered a couple of other geniuses this morning when I checked
my mail
> before breakfast, who decided to send abuse to me sometime overnight
> because they couldn't figure out that it was their responsibility to
> uns*bscribe themselves.  Always amazes me that people somehow blame me
> when they delete their instructions... I can see *asking* me how to
do it,
> but that almost never happens. It's like I'm holding them prisoner or
> something because of something I did. 
==================================

Ummm....Greg......my accident that I had a while back in my
Olds....well.....IT'S ALL YOUR FAULT!!!! *ROTFL* The reasoning behind
this accusation is....just because!!!!
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 12:58:44 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: MAIL LIST

"Timothy A. Churchill" wrote:
> 
> <snip>
> In fact, all so-called pony cars were/are uni-body.

I have a article by some "Automotive Writer" subtitled "Olds pony car was best
known for speed, handling."  Please!  Like you said, most/all of the Pony cars
were unibodies and I've never heard anyone knowledgeable call an A-Body a Pony
car.

BTW: Why do they call them pony cars?  Is it because when you find rot in the
subframe you take them out and shoot them?

Sorry, I had a Rusttang once and it had frame rot.  Swore I would never buy
another old unibody car.  My friend said, "You're kind of odd, you should buy
an odd car instead of a arm-pit (everyone has one or two) car" so I bought an
Olds to be different than the Ch*vy, F*rd, D*dge crowd.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 14:55:34 EST
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: Re: belt replacement

>This is an embarrassing question, but I'm replacing the belts for the
>first time and having trouble figuring out how one of them gets
>loosened.
>the there's a 3rd one in the middle (power
>steering I assume) that is mystifying me.

Dont be embarrassed I was just about to ask the same question only difference
is mine is an 82 cutlass w/ the V-6 3.8 and I sat underneath my car for a
while yesterday trying to figure it out and I still have no clue maybe someone
on the list  would be able to help the both of us
							
														
Rich

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 14:59:06 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: day dreaming

I've seen pictures of someone who did this.  Swapped on the Bravada front
end and I believe changed or removed the emblems.  Don't recall if he did
anything to the drivetrain though.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris/

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

> I've been thinking about this for a while too. Take an S-10 and replace
> the front clip with a Bravada front clip. Swap in an Olds 350/th350 with
> some decent gears. Put some SSII's on it. Then you could call it the
> "B-10", "O-10", "Trucklass", "S-442", "OldsmoTruck", the possibilities
> are endless. 
> 
> 
> Ed Binnix wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > Here's some fodder for the list.
> > 
> > I had a vision of a Ch*vy S-10, the base junk motor had been removed, a
> 455
> > and 4L80 transmission had been put in it's place. 4.56 gears were
> installed
> > in the rear end. The grill and all the ch*vy identification had been
> > removed. In there place was the grill from an Olds SUV (whatever they
> call
> > that thing) which is just a S-10 based Olds, and the new Olds emblems in
> > place of the bow ties. The Ultimate parts hauler. A big block Olds
> > mini-truck. A one of a kind that looked like it came from the factory.
> > Aaaaahhhhh! Now if only I were rich.
> > Hey Lou, don't you have an S-10?
> 
> -- 
> ***********
> Matt Cremean
> mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
> ***********************
> '70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
> '73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
> '75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
> *******************************************
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 13:56:14 -0600
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: Re: belt replacement

Charles Sullivan wrote:
> 
> This is an embarrassing question, but I'm replacing the belts for the
> first time and having trouble figuring out how one of them gets
> loosened.
> 
> I've got a 1972 Cutlass, 350 with AC.  The AC belt and the alternator
> belt come right off, but the there's a 3rd one in the middle (power
> steering I assume) that is mystifying me.  There's a bolt at around 1
> o'clock behind the top right pulley that seems to be on a groove that I
> loosened.  What am I missing?
> 
> Many thanks in advance.
> 
> Charles Sullivan
> 1972 Cutlass
> csullivan@foidc.com

  Ther should be a bolt that the pump pivots on when you loosen or
tighten it.  It  should be located 180 degrees away from the bolt you
mentioned.  Just back it off 1/2 to 1 turn and it should move nicely.

Paul

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 15:01:28 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: MAIL LIST

BTW: Why do they call them pony cars?  Is it because when you find rot in
the
subframe you take them out and shoot them?
___________

Uh, because the first one of the class was the Mustang.

Trivia question:  What was the _second_ ponycar? (and it wasn't the Camaro)

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 13:53:35 -0600
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: Re: 67 330 cams

Shang wrote:
> 
> IMHO the 280H would be too much for a 330. I had a 270H in my 350 and
> that was pushing the limit of too big for me. With an even smaller bore
> in the 330, plus another 6deg of duration @ .050 lift, the idle in the
> 330 would be VERY choppy. Keeping in mind that the small block Olds
> isn't exactly a torque monster, I feel you would lose everything below
> 2500 in a 330. Make one heck of a high RPM snot rocket tho ;) Just my
> thoughts.

I agree with Steve here. I had a Ford 302 with a 270H and the idle was
lopey at 800rpm.  Mind you, I had a maunal and assume you'll be using an
automatic.  You may need to change torque converters for a 280H.  The
302 did pull like all get out from 3200 to 6500 though.  Loved that
motor.

Paul

> >
> >    Just curious,  I am putting a 67, 330 in my 85 442.  Laying up the 307.
> > I am wondering on the lists thoughts of a 280H comp cam in the 330.  How
> > radical would it be and what kind of horse power and torque will I be
> > looking at. The engine is a 67 330, 2 bbl. and putting the 307 aluminum 4
> > bbl intake on.  What else should I look out for when swapping this engine
> > for the original 307.  I do know that I need to use the 307 exhaust
> > manifolds and I am using the original intake.  Also using the original
> > tranny out of the 85.  Any other inputs would be greatly appreciated.
> >
> > Thanks
> > Jeff
> >
> > 70 4spd conv.
> > 85 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 15:05:48 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: belt replacement

I've got a 1972 Cutlass, 350 with AC.  The AC belt and the alternator
belt come right off, but the there's a 3rd one in the middle (power
steering I assume) that is mystifying me.  There's a bolt at around 1
o'clock behind the top right pulley that seems to be on a groove that I
loosened.  What am I missing?

Many thanks in advance.

Charles Sullivan
___________

You are correct in locating the bolt behind the pulley on the PS pump, but
there is also a nut on the bolt that the pump pivots on.  Chances are this
nut is still tight, preventing you from moving the pump.  The easiest thing
to do is reach this nut from the underside of the car.  It's the nut on the
stud projecting from the bottom of the pump, passing through the bottom
bracket.  Simply loosen it a little (along with the one behind the pulley)
and the pump should move.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 12:12:51 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: belt replacement

- ---Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu> wrote:
>
> Charles Sullivan wrote:
> > 
> > This is an embarrassing question, but I'm replacing the belts for
the
> > first time and having trouble figuring out how one of them gets
> > loosened.
> > 
> > I've got a 1972 Cutlass, 350 with AC.  The AC belt and the
alternator
> > belt come right off, but the there's a 3rd one in the middle (power
> > steering I assume) that is mystifying me.  There's a bolt at
around 1
> > o'clock behind the top right pulley that seems to be on a groove
that I
> > loosened.  What am I missing?
> > 
> > Many thanks in advance.
> > 
> > Charles Sullivan
> > 1972 Cutlass
> > csullivan@foidc.com
> 
>   Ther should be a bolt that the pump pivots on when you loosen or
> tighten it.  It  should be located 180 degrees away from the bolt you
> mentioned.  Just back it off 1/2 to 1 turn and it should move nicely.
> 
> Paul
==================================
And, if it is anything like my 69 Olds with the 70 350.....that bolt
is positioned behind the power steering pulley. You have to use a
wrench to get at it.

==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 14:16:17 -0600
From: "Roger Hitson" <hitson@i1.net>
Subject: measuring intake was:Re: Part numbers

Well, so happens I do. Have been off list so don't know what this is about. 
Whatcha want measured?

roger hitson
*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********

On 2/16/99, at 1:42 PM, KarlAunan@aol.com wrote: 

<snipped>>
>C'mon! ~someone~ has to have a 350 intake laying around that they can take a
>ruler to!
>
>SOM
>
>&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 15:13:41 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: belt replacement

Some Olds had a hidden one on the back and bottom of the pump not sure on
this one.

- -----Original Message-----

>
>Charles Sullivan wrote:
>>
>> This is an embarrassing question, but I'm replacing the belts for the
>> first time and having trouble figuring out how one of them gets
>> loosened.
>>
>> I've got a 1972 Cutlass, 350 with AC.  The AC belt and the alternator
>> belt come right off, but the there's a 3rd one in the middle (power
>> steering I assume) that is mystifying me.  There's a bolt at around 1
>> o'clock behind the top right pulley that seems to be on a groove that I
>> loosened.  What am I missing?
>>
>> Many thanks in advance.
>>
>> Charles Sullivan
>> 1972 Cutlass
>> csullivan@foidc.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 15:13:52 EST
From: Jon442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Power Steering Services (was: RE: New member, and a small 
prob(long))

I've had my gearbox reworked by PSS, and it looks great. I had it converted to
quick ratio. The car is still in pieces, so I haven't driven it yet. Chip is a
very conscientious person and takes a lot of pride in his work. I don't think
you will be unhappy with his services.

Jon

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 15:14:38 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: MAIL LIST

> Uh, because the first one of the class was the Mustang.
> 
> Trivia question:  What was the _second_ ponycar? (and it wasn't the
> Camaro)
> 
	Firebird?  I'm gonna guess the Javelin or some AMC product.
	(not an AMC fan, so I don't know which came first, AMX, Javelin,
Rebel Machine, Pacer, etc)

	Chris Smetana
	Terre Haute, IN
	http://www.abcs.com/chris/

	1969 W-31
	1969 4-4-2 parts car
	plus others

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 12:17:41 -0800 (PST)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Parts FS

  I have a 1970-72 cutlass passenger side fender for sale( off of a
72).  Very Straight, hole where the antenna was, easily filled. 
Slight rust in interior of common spot, but not through.  Has all trim
still on it (cutlass script, stainless wheel opening trim, pot metal
eyebrow, etc.) I'll take $150 obo.  Can e-mail pictures on request.
  Also have a Sparkomatic brand FM Converter.  It worked very well
when I had it in my 70 Cutlass.  $15 obo.  Can e-mail pics on request.
   
 Any trim on the fender can be sold seperately, make an offer. 
 Shipping is negotiable 
 I have a huge list of assorted 72 cutlass pieces that I will be
posting probably later today.  

       Adress:   Stefan Gadecki
                 34 Coakley Dr.
                 Chicopee, MA 01020
        Phone:   (413)594-5890
       E-mail:   sgadecki@yahoo.com   or
                 70cutlass@beer.com
AOL InstMsage:   phizz69
                




_________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 15:21:27 -0500
From: tonwald@eta.k12.mn.us (Tony Waldner)
Subject: Re:Pony Car

>
>Trivia question:  What was the _second_ ponycar? (and it wasn't the Camaro)
>


Uh...The AMC Marlin?  LOLOLOL!

Hey, Even I am entitled to a waste of bandwith every now and then!

Tony

70 442 W-30
70 442 W-30 convert
70 Toro GT W-34
65 Jetstar 88 w/4-speed
84 Hurst/Olds
85 Cutlass Salon 455 Drag Racer
92 Seville STS

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 15:21:30 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: MAIL LIST

Answer: It was the Baracuda. And there is debate as to who actually got
theirs out first. Some say the Plymouth beat the Mustang (Donkey) by a
couple weeks.

Omega Man

At 03:01 PM 2/16/99 -0500, you wrote:
>BTW: Why do they call them pony cars?  Is it because when you find rot in
>the
>subframe you take them out and shoot them?
>___________
>
>Uh, because the first one of the class was the Mustang.
>
>Trivia question:  What was the _second_ ponycar? (and it wasn't the Camaro)
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 14:15:45 -0600
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: Re: MAIL LIST

Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:
> 
> BTW: Why do they call them pony cars?  Is it because when you find rot in
> the
> subframe you take them out and shoot them?
> ___________
> 
> Uh, because the first one of the class was the Mustang.
> 
> Trivia question:  What was the _second_ ponycar? (and it wasn't the Camaro)
> 
> Joe Padavano


?Baracudda or the Firebird...both were before the Camaro...I vote 'cuda.

Paul

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 15:21:15 -0500
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: "C" head on Ebay.

I e-mailed the guy a couple questions about the head and haven't received a
response yet.   Maybe he has no sense of humor.......Along with valve size,
I asked if it fit the left or right side ;)  jokingly of course!

Oh well,
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 15:23:35 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: 67 330 cams

Had a 302 with a 292H Comp Cam. Talk about lopey! But it would rev FOREVER!
I tend to like animalistic cams in any motor, a big subscriber to the
"bigger is better mechanical philosophy." I would use the 280H or more on a
street motor, definitely with a converter change. Ugh, Ugh, more powerrrrr!!
If it idles below 850 the cam's too small!!!!  ;-)

- -----Original Message-----

>Shang wrote:
>>
>> IMHO the 280H would be too much for a 330. I had a 270H in my 350 and
>> that was pushing the limit of too big for me. With an even smaller bore
>> in the 330, plus another 6deg of duration @ .050 lift, the idle in the
>> 330 would be VERY choppy. Keeping in mind that the small block Olds
>> isn't exactly a torque monster, I feel you would lose everything below
>> 2500 in a 330. Make one heck of a high RPM snot rocket tho ;) Just my
>> thoughts.
>
>I agree with Steve here. I had a Ford 302 with a 270H and the idle was
>lopey at 800rpm.  Mind you, I had a maunal and assume you'll be using an
>automatic.  You may need to change torque converters for a 280H.  The
>302 did pull like all get out from 3200 to 6500 though.  Loved that
>motor.
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 15:25:53 -0500
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: MAIL LIST

Joe Padavano Poses a Poser:

> Trivia question:  What was the _second_ ponycar? (and it wasn't the Camaro)

Hmmm, lessee... Mustangs were '64 1/2 -- or just plain '64, if you include
the one seen as a product tie-in in _Goldfinger_;  Camaros were '67 model
year... so what came between?

The Javelin/AMX was also a '67 model year intro;  The Marlin, which came out
in '65, definitely was *not* a pony car.  More like a clydesdale than a pony,
size-wise...

The Charger came out in '66.  Now that's aunibody, but doesn't fit into the
pony car class, it was more like an A-body size-wise

Does the 1st generation Barracuda w/273 V8 qualify?  I think it too was
available in '64, but maybe it was really '65... btw I once owned a second
generation,  '67 'Cuda ragtop.  Slant 6, 3-on-the-tree, another one of those
rare-but-not-very-valuable cars, still wish I had it though, but I digress.

My guess is the Cuda.  Am I right?  Do I win?

Aw, shoot, I didn't put it in the form of a question...

Tim Churchill  tchurchill@draper.com  OCA #30327  Framingham, MA
- ----------------------------------------------------------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, new a.k.a 'Old Gold'
'98 VW Passat GLS Wagon, a.k.a. 'der Kinderwagen'

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 15:22:45 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: MAIL LIST

Answer: It was the Baracuda. And there is debate as to who actually got
theirs out first. Some say the Plymouth beat the Mustang (Donkey) by a
couple weeks.

Omega Man
________

Yes, we have a winner!  Points to Tony, however, for even remembering the
Marlin (though that was really a larger car)!

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 13:59:38 -0600
From: "Johnson, Samuel" <SJohnso6@allstate.com>
Subject: Cutlass front end

Do you know of any web sites or person that could tell me if a flat front 
86 or 87 cutlass front end would fit on my friend's 81 swoop nosed Cutlass.
Can he
keep the old hood and fenders?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 15:24:49 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 67 330 cams

If it idles below 850 the cam's too small!!!!  ;-)
________

A man after my own heart!

"If some is good, then more is better, and too much is just about right!"

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 15:28:17 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: "C" head on Ebay.

If the "C" is on the front it's a left side head, if it's on the back, it's
a right.  :-)

- -----Original Message-----

>
>I e-mailed the guy a couple questions about the head and haven't received a
>response yet.   Maybe he has no sense of humor.......Along with valve size,
>I asked if it fit the left or right side ;)  jokingly of course!
>
>Oh well,
>Randy
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 15:28:09 -0500
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: gm part # 9787069 clutch fork

Hey everyone

        I had the same guy E-mail me for the same part. I told him they
were the
same(which they are) according to the parts manual. I have a bunch of new ones.
He was very insistent that there was a major difference. Ever wonder why you
can install a big block Olds with all the small block parts? Clutch size is
different between a BB (11") and a SB (10.5") but that's it. I think this guy
has got some bad info.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts
66 442 W-30
66 442 Race Car
 

At 10:44 AM 2/16/99 , you wrote:
>
>All,
>A guy emailed me the other day looking for said clutch fork.  And with my
>post a while back on clutches and it's subsequent questions it raised, I
>figured I'd post this to this list to see if it can be verified.  Is he
>correct about the clutch fork, in both part # and the way he says it
>'attaches'?  I'd be interested in knowing for future reference.  Thanks.
>> > 
>> >  i am looking for above clutch fork that fits 69-72 buick skylark gs big
>> > block/olds cutlass big block cars with 4 speed hurst package.   this
>> fork
>> > pins to the linkage & is not the same as the 350 fork which uses the
>> > dimple/push rod design with the large spring.
>> 
>Chris Smetana
>Terre Haute, IN
>http://www.abcs.com/chris/
>
>1969 W-31
>1969 4-4-2 parts car
>plus others

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 15:38:03 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: MAIL LIST

>
>?Baracudda or the Firebird...both were before the Camaro...I vote 'cuda.
>
>Paul
>
>


Camaro came before Firebird. Too bad Olds never made an early f-body.
Probably would have been the best one. They sure got the best X-body. 

Omega Man

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 15:36:38 -0500
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: 67 330 cams

We had a 302 with an E-303 Motorsport cam, amonst lots of other
modifications, like cylinder heads and injectors and intakes...that sucker
would SCREAM right up to redline, 6000.  I think the advertised duration was
something like 303 int. and 315 exh.  Ran like a dream, but real bad idle.
Especially if you plan to use this beast on the street a lot, I think the
aforementioned 270H or even a 260H would be a better choice for great
low-RPM throttle response.

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://members.xoom.com/jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Ed Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, February 16, 1999 3:26 PM
Subject: Re: 67 330 cams


>Had a 302 with a 292H Comp Cam. Talk about lopey! But it would rev FOREVER!
>I tend to like animalistic cams in any motor, a big subscriber to the
>"bigger is better mechanical philosophy." I would use the 280H or more on a
>street motor, definitely with a converter change. Ugh, Ugh, more
powerrrrr!!
>If it idles below 850 the cam's too small!!!!  ;-)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 15:41:46 -0500
From: Charles Sullivan <csullivan@foidc.com>
Subject: Re: belt replacement

Thank you to all for the quick and helpful responses.  I'm going to head
out and give it whirl....

Charles Sullivan
1972 Cutlass
csullivan@foidc.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 15:40:57 -0500
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: day dreaming

John McJunkin has actually done this...Olds 350 motor.  See it at
http://members.tripod.com/~oldsraceshop/ ... that's not *his* homepage, but
his friend's homepage.  I think it was a joint project between the two of
them.  John's homepage is at http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://members.xoom.com/jadcock

- -----Original Message-----
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, February 16, 1999 2:55 PM
Subject: Re: day dreaming


>I've been thinking about this for a while too. Take an S-10 and replace
>the front clip with a Bravada front clip. Swap in an Olds 350/th350 with
>some decent gears. Put some SSII's on it. Then you could call it the
>"B-10", "O-10", "Trucklass", "S-442", "OldsmoTruck", the possibilities
>are endless.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 12:53:25 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: day dreaming

Kind of off the Olds subject a bit, but a good friend and I have plans
of putting a Chev 350 in a Chevette. We've seen one here in Fargo with
a 305 in it. That's what sparked our 350 idea. Hopefully some day we
will have the money to take on this project!




- ---Jason Adcock <rocketolds@vt.edu> wrote:
>
> John McJunkin has actually done this...Olds 350 motor.  See it at
> http://members.tripod.com/~oldsraceshop/ ... that's not *his*
homepage, but
> his friend's homepage.  I think it was a joint project between the
two of
> them.  John's homepage is at http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/
> 
> Jason Adcock
> mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
> http://members.xoom.com/jadcock
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Tuesday, February 16, 1999 2:55 PM
> Subject: Re: day dreaming
> 
> 
> >I've been thinking about this for a while too. Take an S-10 and
replace
> >the front clip with a Bravada front clip. Swap in an Olds 350/th350
with
> >some decent gears. Put some SSII's on it. Then you could call it the
> >"B-10", "O-10", "Trucklass", "S-442", "OldsmoTruck", the
possibilities
> >are endless.
> 
> 

==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 16:00:47 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: The Top 10 Muscle Cars

Hey everyone. 
Go check out this link. MCR's top ten. Score: Olds-2

Omega Man
'74 Omega S 455

http://www.musclecarreview.com/musclecar/May97/eO.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 15:02:12 -0600
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: Re: 67 330 cams

Jason Adcock wrote:
> 
> We had a 302 with an E-303 Motorsport cam, amonst lots of other
> modifications, like cylinder heads and injectors and intakes...that sucker
> would SCREAM right up to redline, 6000.  I think the advertised duration was
> something like 303 int. and 315 exh.  Ran like a dream, but real bad idle.
> Especially if you plan to use this beast on the street a lot, I think the
> aforementioned 270H or even a 260H would be a better choice for great
> low-RPM throttle response.
> 
> Jason Adcock
> mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
> http://members.xoom.com/jadcock
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Ed Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Tuesday, February 16, 1999 3:26 PM
> Subject: Re: 67 330 cams
> 
> >Had a 302 with a 292H Comp Cam. Talk about lopey! But it would rev FOREVER!
> >I tend to like animalistic cams in any motor, a big subscriber to the
> >"bigger is better mechanical philosophy." I would use the 280H or more on a
> >street motor, definitely with a converter change. Ugh, Ugh, more
> powerrrrr!!
> >If it idles below 850 the cam's too small!!!!  ;-)


  Don't go below a 260H.  I started there and it was not enough..I also
had headers, single plane edelbrock intake, 3 angle valve job(later
proted & polished the heads) ect....

The 292H is ahell of a lot of cam.  I had the equivanted Crane number in
my 302 and I would have to periodically check my polylocks.  The studs
were press ins and I way always afraid of one pulling out(never did
though).

The 270H was the most reasonable for speed, street, and highway in an
everyday car.

Paul

P.S. If you're going to rev the p^ss out of it, remember to either
increase the oil pan capacity or limit your revs.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 13:17:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: The Top 10 Muscle Cars

I think that it's pretty cool that 2 oldses got on the list, but yet
there was only one chebby and one F*rd (if the cobra even counts as a
f*rd). 

Stefan


- ---Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com> wrote:
>
> Hey everyone. 
> Go check out this link. MCR's top ten. Score: Olds-2
> 
> Omega Man
> '74 Omega S 455
> 
> http://www.musclecarreview.com/musclecar/May97/eO.htm
> 
> 

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 16:22:28 EST
From: Lou0118@aol.com
Subject: Re: MAIL LIST

In a message dated 02/16/1999 3:09:41 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM writes:

<< Uh, because the first one of the class was the Mustang.
 
 Trivia question:  What was the _second_ ponycar? (and it wasn't the Camaro)
  >>

I believe it was the Plymouth Barracuda.  But I heard somewhere that it
actually came out before the Mustang, but was not as popular.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 01:21:20 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: day dreaming

had the same plan myself gotta find the right candidate then swapperoo
thought about the w-31 engine still have it would go real nice gotta get an
s10 or s15 with a 5 speed call it a W-31 whaddaya  think?????
- -----Original Message-----
From: Semantana Chris (ONEX) <SemantanaC@tce.com>
To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, February 16, 1999 2:07 PM
Subject: RE: day dreaming


>I've seen pictures of someone who did this.  Swapped on the Bravada front
>end and I believe changed or removed the emblems.  Don't recall if he did
>anything to the drivetrain though.
>
>Chris Smetana
>Terre Haute, IN
>http://www.abcs.com/chris/
>
>1969 W-31
>1969 4-4-2 parts car
>plus others
>
>> I've been thinking about this for a while too. Take an S-10 and replace
>> the front clip with a Bravada front clip. Swap in an Olds 350/th350 with
>> some decent gears. Put some SSII's on it. Then you could call it the
>> "B-10", "O-10", "Trucklass", "S-442", "OldsmoTruck", the possibilities
>> are endless.
>>
>>
>> Ed Binnix wrote:
>> >
>> >
>> > Here's some fodder for the list.
>> >
>> > I had a vision of a Ch*vy S-10, the base junk motor had been removed, a
>> 455
>> > and 4L80 transmission had been put in it's place. 4.56 gears were
>> installed
>> > in the rear end. The grill and all the ch*vy identification had been
>> > removed. In there place was the grill from an Olds SUV (whatever they
>> call
>> > that thing) which is just a S-10 based Olds, and the new Olds emblems
in
>> > place of the bow ties. The Ultimate parts hauler. A big block Olds
>> > mini-truck. A one of a kind that looked like it came from the factory.
>> > Aaaaahhhhh! Now if only I were rich.
>> > Hey Lou, don't you have an S-10?
>>
>> --
>> ***********
>> Matt Cremean
>> mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
>> ***********************
>> '70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
>> '73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
>> '75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
>> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
>> *******************************************
>>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 17:12:09 EST
From: CARMAN442@aol.com
Subject: Re: MAIL LIST

  I believe he is the guy driving the GEO METRO drop top. You know the guy
with the head so big he has to always drive with the top down, in all kinds of
weather. This would explain his actions. His head frquently gets wet plus hit
with foreign objects.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 16:32:23 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: dash change of color

It will be very difficult due to the fact you will have overspray
everywhere. The windshield will also be in the way. Not to mention all the
woodgrain, controls,etc. will be in the way. I had to remove my dash to
paint it....
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Douglas J Harkema <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: dash change of color
> Date: Tuesday, February 16, 1999 7:01 AM
> 
> I'm thinking of changing my interior color from saddle to black.  can you
> change the dash color without removing it from the car?  What is the
process if
> you can do this.
> 
> Thanks
> Doug
> 70 CS conv't

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 17:17:43 EST
From: CARMAN442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Meineke Burnout

 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 17:33:29 -0500
From: Thomas Jacquillard <tjacquillard@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: Ebay:is that an authentic "C" head?

I believe that the red was from the late 60's Toro's, anybody confirm?
T.J.

Kerry Kroger wrote:
> 
> could be off a late 60s 455 they tended to have them and were red...KK
> -----Original Message-----
> From: KarlAunan@aol.com <KarlAunan@aol.com>
> To: Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Tuesday, February 16, 1999 1:20 PM
> Subject: Ebay:is that an authentic "C" head?
> 
> >Single head,
> >At first look, red color looks wrong, cannot positivly spot "C" in picture
> of
> >head.
> >
> >Anyone?
> >
> >is this a "C" head?
> >
> >SOM
> >
> >&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 17:37:17 -0500
From: Thomas Jacquillard <tjacquillard@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: Power Steering Services (was: RE: New member, and a small pro b 
(long))

Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com wrote:
> 
> Thanks....now who wants to help me pull the darn thing out?????
> 
> Mickey
> '68 Cutlass "S" Conv
Mickey, this is so easy. The three bolts through the frame, the steering
column knuckle, and the pitman arm are all there is. The hardest part
was getting the pitman arm off. If you have or rent a puller, it is
easy.
T.J.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 17:38:28 -0500
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Part numbers/intake measurements

>C'mon! ~someone~ has to have a 350 intake laying around that they >can take
a ruler to!


I came in late on this thread. What measurements are you looking? I have a
'68 380 2V intake laying out in the garage. Tell me what you need and I'll
run out (with ruler in hand) and get it for you.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 16 Feb 1999 17:37:31 -0500
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: FS:  '57-'67 Olds Parts

                                  C&M Classic Parts
                      1132 Chatmoss Drive, Virginia Beach, VA 23464
                            (757)474-0869, FAX (757)474-0694
                                <chermac@exis.net>
                                        OCA# 24275

        Hours:  Mon.-Fri.  4:00 PM - 10:00 PM,  Sat. 9:00 AM - 3:00 PM,  
        CLOSED Sunday
        *We accept all major Credit Cards: VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and 
        Discover.*

                             OLDSMOBILE Restoration Parts

New arrival "Parts"
64 F-85/Cutlass Grille (good cond) $45.00
66 442 L-69 Tri-Carb Air Cleaners (Small ones, repro, w/filters)  $119.00 set
67 442/Cutlass Tail Light Bezels (nicest pair I've seen, orig)  $400.00 pr
66-67 Fan Shroud (mint orig.,w/brackets)  $125.00
64-72 Manual Steering Box (Box only)  $40.00
65 Full Size Air Cleaner Top (Super Rocket)  $30.00
65 442 Air Cleaner (nice, complete) $185.00
65 442/Cutlass (N.O.S.) Front Turn Lens  $55.00 pr 
65 442/Cutlass RH Rear Quarter Molding (nice)  $50.00
64-65 Dash Pad (mint, maroon)  $275.00
64-67 AM Radio (mint, looks new, works great)  $75.00
64-69 Vacuum Gauge (console mount, mint)  $100.00
64-66 Console Tach (nice)  $75.00
66-67 OAI Hoses (best repro) $65.00 pr
66 442 Tri -Carb "B"  "V" and "T" coded Dash - 1 heads (nice, casting dates
137&138)  $375.00 pr
67 442 W-30 "C" Heads (VG code, drilled and plugged)  $375.00 pr
66-67 Wiper transmissions  $40.00 ea
66-67 Cutlass/F-85 4 door Sedan Front Doors (mint)  $100.00 pr
66-67 Cowl Panels (mint)  $35.00 ea
66-67 Cutlass/442 Dash Harness (w/o gauges, mint, looks new)  $175.00
66-67 Post Coupe Lt Blue Arm rest pads (like new)  $15.00 ea
66-67 Sunvisor (RH, w / mirror, mint)  $15.00
66-67 442 4 spd Chassis (rolling, very good cond)  $250.00
64-72 Boxed Lower Control Arms (originals)  $110.00 pr
66-67 Dash Pad (red, good, 1 tiny crack)  $85.00
66-67 Holiday 2 dr Quarter Panel RH (good)  $150.00
66-67 Dash Chrome Insert (nice, minor repair done, nice chrome)  $100.00
64-65 Radiator Top Plate  $35.00
65-67 400 Pistons (std, used) $40.00 set of 8
53 (N.O.S.) 88/98 Hood Emblem (in box)  $125.00 
57 (N.O.S.) 88/98 Taillight Lens (1 only)  $35.00
57 (Repro) 88/98 Taillight Lens (2)  $40.00 pr
60 (N.O.S.) 88/98 RH Taillight assm. w/chrome  $145.00
64-66 Auto Console (black, w/wiring, nice)  $125.00
         
New Repro Parts:
64-67 Battery Tray (Repro)  $30.00
66 442 Tri-Carb Linkage Kit (complete) $78.00
67 442 Grille Bar (repro)  $92.00
66-67 442/Cutlass Drip Rail Moldings (NEW, repro) $78.00 set
67-70 Turn Signal Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea
67-70 Tilt Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea 

New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts 1964-1972 Olds/Cutlass/442
64-72 Clutch Inspection covers (N.O.S.)  $22.00 ea
66-67 Upper Radiator Hose  $27.00 ea
67-75 TH400 Shifter Cable Bracket (N.O.S.)  $24.00
68-75+ TH350 Shifter Cable Bracket (N.O.S.)  $24.00
68-72+ TH Torque Converter Cover (Plastic, N.O.S.)  $36.00 ea
66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea

Used Parts:
64 Cutlass/442                       
(2) 64-65 2 Bar Spinners (N.O.S.)  $50.00 pr
64-65 330/400 Valve Covers (nice)  $25.00 pr
64-65 Cutlass/442 Conv Rear Side Glass (mint)  $80.00 pr
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  $50.00
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
RH Headlight Bezel  $15.00                                                  
Front Bumper Core  $50.00                                                   
F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00 

65 Cutlass/442
65 400 442 4-Jet Carb (rebuilt)  $175.00
65 442 Grille (nice used)  $125.00
65 Cutlass Grille (good used)  $75.00
65 442 RH Fender (no rust, small ding)  $300.00
64-65 330/400 Valve Covers (nice)  $35.00 pr
64-65 Cutlass/442 Conv Rear Side Glass (mint)  $80.00 pr
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  $50.00
65 Cutlass Dash Emblem (mint)  $35.00
65 Cutlass 4 Door Rear Wheelwell Die cast pieces (front)  $20.00 pr
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings  LH/RH rear $15.00 ea
64-65 F-85 Steering Wheel Center (mint)  $15.00

66 Cutlass/442
66 Rear Bumper Core  $55.00
66 442 W-30 Inner/Outer Bumper Ducts (new doesn't include hoses)  $550.00 set
66 442 W-30 Inner Ducts  $400.00 pr  
66 442 LH Tail Light assm (fair to good) $100.00 
66 442 RH Tail Light Assm (fair to good) $100.00
66 LH/RH Outside Mirror (good driver) $15.00
66 442/Cutlass LH Inner Fenderwell (very nice) $75.00
66 Cutlass Post Coupe Rear Side Panels (black, rare w/woodgrain, nice)  $50.00
pr
66-67 Post Coupe Doors (mint)  $150.00 pr
66 442/Cutlass Radiator Support (nice, blasted no rust)  $125.00
66-67 SSI Wheels (nice not perfect, 5)  $250.00 set
66-67 RH "W" Exhaust Manifold (mint)  $125.00
66-67 442 Air Cleaner (2)  $85.00 ea
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  $50.00
66 F-85 Trunk Lid Emblem $10.00
66 F-85 Trunk Lid Molding  $20.00
66 Floor Shift Steering Column Collars $10.00 ea
66-67 Clocks  $40.00 ea
66 F-85 Deluxe Dash Emblem (nice)  $15.00
66 Cutlass Trunk Lid Molding  $35.00
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
66 Cutlass Trunk Molding (very good)  $45.00
66 Cutlass Tail Light Bezels (very good)  $65.00 pr
66 F-85/Cutlass grille (nice)   $55.00
66 F-85/Cutlass grille (good)  $35.00 
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
66 Cutlass/442 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
Post Coupe Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 pr
F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea                                  

67 Cutlass/442
67 442 W-30 UHV system (complete w/ N.O.S coil and experimental distributor) 
$550.00
67 442 W-30 Core Support (factory stamped, bent on LH side)  $145.00
67 Hardtop door panels $50.00 pr
67 Front Bumper Filler Panel (mint)  $40.00
67 Cutlass Hood (mint)  $100.00
67 442/Cutlass Supreme Rear Qtr Moldings (no pits, decent chrome) $90.00 pr
67 442/Cutlass Supreme Rear Bumper (nice)  $115.00
67 442/Cutlass Radiator Support (nice)  $130.00
66-67 442 Air Cleaner (2)  $85.00 ea
67 Deluxe Full Wheel Covers $35.00 set
67 442/Cutlass Radiator Support (nice, blasted no rust)  $125.00
66-67 Clocks  $40.00 ea
67 Cutlass Dash Emblem (good)  $10.00
67 Cutlass Supreme Dash Emblems (2 very nice)  $20.00 ea
67 442/Cutlass Front Bumper Guards  $15.00 pr
67 Remote Mirror (good, not great)  $20.00
67 Cutlass 4 door, Front and Rear Seats (blue, very nice)  $150.00 both
67 Cutlass 4 door, Door Panels (blue, mint)  $65.00 for all 4
67 442/Cutlass Trunk Panel (good chrome, NO pits)  $65.00
67 F-85 Steering Wheel Center (good chrome) $15.00
67 Cutlass Supreme/442 Steering Wheel Centers (mint)  $35.00 
67 Fender End Caps  $30.00 pr
67 4 spd Speedometer Adapter (3.42 gears & 4spd)  $45.00
67 Cutlass Fender Emblems (nice)  $10.00 ea
67 Plain Cutlass Fender Rockets (nice)  $5.50 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
67 Cutlass Headlight Bezels (nice)  $50.00 pr
67 442 Trunk Lids (clean)  $90.00 ea
67 RH Fender (small metal patch panel, straight)  $135.00

Big Car Parts:
66 Toro Batman Steering Wheel, Tilt/Tele column (black, very nice)  $145.00
 

New reproduction parts:
Convertible Top Boots (Correct Grains for each different year)  $89.00ea
64  Black, Red, Lt. Blue, Fawn, Saddle, Turquoise, White
65  Same as 64  
66-67 Black, Red, Light Blue, Med. Blue, Bronze, Turquoise, White, Gold
68-72 Black, Red, Parchment, Lt. Blue, Teal Blue, Green Gold, Gold, Pearl,
Dk Blue, Dk. Green, Lt. Green, Lt. Saddle, Dk Saddle, Olive Green, Royal
Blue, White, Sandalwood, 

Molded Carpet Sets  $95.00 
64-67 - (Black, Red, Med. Blue, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Maroon)
68-72 - (Black, Red, Maroon, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Med. Blue, Dk. Green,
Green Gold, Lt. Green, Teal Blue, Saddle, Sandalwood)
73-77 - (Same as 68-72 except Green Gold)

Door Panels  64-72  $265.00 for a set of all 4

Seat Covers  64-72  $335.00 front and rear sets any year or color.

Vinyl Dash Overlays (makes your wood dash areas look like carbon fiber)
$50.00 set 

Lifetime Guarantee on all correct bead window felts  $92.00 set (inner & outer)
66-67 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (correct bead type) 
68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (not Supreme Coupes, correct bead) 
68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv (Outers only, correct bead)  $50.00

Replacement Window Felts (Flat type)  $60.00 set (inner & outer)
64-72 Cutlass/442 (state year and model)

Glove Box Liners
64-67 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
68-69 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
70-72 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99

Qrt Seals
70-72 Cutlass Supreme & Conv Qtr End seals  $13.00 pr

Hood Insulation
64-65 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
66 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
67 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
68-70 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner (w/clips)  $18.00
70-72 Cutlass Supreme Hood Liner (w/clips)  $18.00
73-77 Cutlass $28.00

Liner Clips
Round Clips  $1.00 ea
Square Clips  $1.00 ea

A-Arm Shields
68-72 Upper A-Arm dust shields  $14.99 pr

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1781
*********************************

