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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1714


oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, January 12 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1714



Re: Bad Coil 
Re: Bad Coil (was : Water in gas)
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
Re: Bad Coil
HEI adj. vac. advance kits: summit vs. crane
anyone have rims for sale?
Re: Bad Coil
Re: HEI adj. vac. advance kits: summit vs. crane
Desirable front end geometry (NOT!)
Re: Bad Coil
addres used parts
.your site
Re: detonation problem
Re: addres used parts
Re: detonation problem
Re: Swapping a 425 for a 455
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
..about your site
HOT 455 for sale fast (moving to Korea)
Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"? ('68  Cutlass)
Re: addres used parts
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
Re: HOT 455 for sale fast (moving to Korea)
pageing  frank latorre / rallye 350 club
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
UNBOUNCE: anyone have rims for sale?
Korea moving sale
Re: History of the 80's
Heat Pipes
RE: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"? ('68  Cutlass)
Re: Bad Coil
Re: how do remove crome molding?
Re: Dual Exhaust for 67 425
Re: beater
Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"?  ('68 Cutlass)
Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"?  ('68 Cutlass)
Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"?  ('68 Cutlass)
Re: Heat Pipes ( a bit long)
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
Re: History of the 80's
Re: the diff between stock 307/HO 307
Re: History of the 80's
Re: 84 Cutlass on E-Bay
Re: pageing  frank latorre / rallye 350 club
Re: HEI adj. vac. advance kits: summit vs. crane
Hurst/Olds Screen Saver
Re: any info on 66 cutlass convertible
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
Re: 350 Heads on a 330 (or Vice-Versa)
Re: HEI adj. vac. advance kits: summit vs. crane

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 10:28:21 -0800
From: THOMAS_ZSCHERPEL@HP-PaloAlto-om13.om.hp.com
Subject: Re: Bad Coil 

     Hi,
     
     I own a '64 Cutlass with an original 330 and had several idle problems 
     in hot weather. First guess was vapor lock. Amazingly enough it turned 
     out to be the ignition coil. After a few replacements I did a test 
     series of measurements - and there electrical specs changed 
     significantly with the temperature (duh!). 
     
     It seems the coil becomes much too hot on the block behind the air 
     cleaner. So I mounted it to the firewall. No more problems since then. 
     Look at the buicks: their coil is right behind the fan in the air 
     stream !
     
     Regards,
     -- Thomas Zscherpel

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 14:02:03 -0500
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <tjacquillard@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: Bad Coil (was : Water in gas)

Martin Thomas-WLTM07 wrote:
> 
> In my 80 Turbo Trans AM I have a problem, ( I know, not olds, but may be
> related...)  When I mash to go pedal (hot or cold) I get some stumble and/or
> backfire at WOT.  But when I am driving normal, no problems, even mileage if
> 16-18 mpg.  I swapped engines (was convenient at the time) from the 455 to a
> 400.  Intake (performer), heads (stock 455 #15, light porting) carb
> (performer 750), and distributor (stock ESC for Turbo) all stayed the same.
> Problem remains.  I pulled a trailer through the Rockies and still no
> problem, but under any load that see's near WOT, backfire.  Timing was
> factory set, carb was jetted to Edelbrocks specs for altitude (1407, 750 CFM
> AFB).
> 
> I was starting to suspect ignition, is this a coil symptom?  Coil is stock
> HEI, as is the ESC distributor module.  All connections are clean.
> 
> I would appreciate any help on this, it has driven me nuts!
> 
> BTW, I am keeping my eye out for a 350 or 403 to replace my 350 with
> (rebuildable is fine), it needs a short block rebuild, and I just don't have
> time to keep car off road that long.  SMW or WMW are fine.  This is stock
> daily driver car, 2.14's, etc.
> 
> Thanks!
> Thomas Martin
> 80 Turbo Trans AM
> 85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
> 91 Bonneville LE 3800
If the coil is original, it is possile that it is getting old. But, in
my '80 Indy Trans Am Turbo 301 I had the same problem. I am running the
original set-up(except major internal work) to include the Carb. I had
to finally find someone who was more knowledgeable than me on carbs to
rebuild it. I couldn't get it tuned in right. Come to find out, once I
increased the engine performance a little, my float level became extra
sensitive. After 1/2 hour of work, the problem was cured. Not sure this
is your problem, but it is an easy place to start.
T.J.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 11:27:05 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

- ---Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu> wrote:
>
> I was wondering how many people on this list use their old Cutlasses
for
> daily-drivers? I took my SX to help my friends move into their new
house,
> about 1 1/2 hours north, in a slushy rain, and enjoyed the whole
drive.
> 
> Now, I've got a fresh quarter panel lined up, and will probably have
it, as
> well as the other side and the trunk, redone this summer, after
which an
> hour trip through slush will be out of the question.
> 
> I was just wondering which route people here have taken with their
> Cutlasses; it seems you have to make a choice either to make your
ride like
> new, and restrict the driving due to the wear and tear and dirt and
grime
> that undo the careful restoration, or leave it pretty rough and enjoy
> driving it without worries under any kind of conditions.
> 
> Which route have you chosen, and what tradeoffs/drawbacks have you
experienced?
> 
> Bob Barry
> '69 Toronado (garage queen)
> '70 Cutlass Supreme SX (rough daily driver)
===============================================
Bob,

I have a 69 Olds Cutlass S that is kind of restored. I did the best I
could with cash supplies. It looks pretty nice but not perfect. I
still drive it as a daily driver during the summertime. I just don't
see spending that much time and money just to have it sit in my garage
and collect dust. The only bad part is when you run into the problem I
had. When you smash your baby up due to someone elses neglect to
follow traffic laws. It's a pisser, but it has given me somthing to do
over the winter and I will build it better then it was before.

Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 14:26:41 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bad Coil

Thomas/List,

Mounting the coil on the firewall is OK, we even mount them inside the race
cars sometimes, but be sure you have a real good ground from the coil bracket
to the engine block.  Sometimes this (not having a good ground to the block)
will cause problems that will either diminish the performance of the coil or
damage it.  It needs that return path for the high voltage that it generates
through the secondary side to complete that circuit.  I believe the "woven"
looking ground straps I've seen will do as long as each end is well secured to
the strap and securely bolted down.

This also holds true for most of the interior lighting as well.  When I
replaced the engine in my SX I forgot to hook it up.  The engine ran real
well, but all the dash lights and gauges weren't working right.  That was
because some time before I had broken off the second ground wire on the
negative battery cable and never reattached it.  Live and learn.........

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 14:19:58 -0600
From: "Greg" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: HEI adj. vac. advance kits: summit vs. crane

I just got Crane's adjustable vacuum advance because my HEI pings at part
throttle from too much of it.

As far as the mechanical advace goes:  I currently have Summit Racings'
light springs and weights, but the crane setup came with new springs and
recommends stock weights.

Anyone have any experience about which way offers more mechanical advance
sooner?  If I remember right the summit kit only came to full advance at
4500rpms, no mention of what the crane setup does.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 12:17:57 -0800 (PST)
From: Edwin Burger <erb22@yahoo.com>
Subject: anyone have rims for sale?

I'm looking to get two or four 15" x 8" rims, 5 on 4 3/4 bolt pattern,
with 3 1/2" or 4" backspacing.  The rims are going on a '70 442.  I
don't really care too much about the style, as long as they're cheap,
and I can get them ASAP.  I'm going to order steel rims on Wednesday
if nothing turns up by then.

Thanks a lot!
Ed

PS.  I'll pay a fair price for torque-thrust d's.

PPS.  I'm located in New Jersey, and I'd like to have the rims this
weekend, if possible.
==
COMMAND: ENCODE MESSAGE
COMMAND: END TRANSMISSION

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 16:02:35 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bad Coil

In a message dated 1/11/99 2:05:18 PM Central Standard Time, KS7RACING@aol.com
writes:

<<  Sometimes this (not having a good ground to the block)
 will cause problems that will either diminish the performance of the coil or
 damage it.  It needs that return path for the high voltage that it generates
 through the secondary side to complete that circuit.  >>


   Huh? My MSD coil was powdercoated, and I just didn't see any mention of
"coil grounding" in the installation instructions. I would have had to
severely scuff the outside of the coil to get the powdercoat removed enough
for it to ground it's external case to the coil bracket.

Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 16:18:36 EST
From: R4C442@aol.com
Subject: Re: HEI adj. vac. advance kits: summit vs. crane

Hey Greg!
    Try as I might, I cannot understand why an ignition kit would include
"lighter springs and weights". The purpose of the the weights is to advance
the timing as a result of the moment and rate they move due to centrifical
force (the rotation of the distributor shaft). To change the point at which
they begin to move and the rate of movement to their maximum swing is the
function of the springs. The lighter the springs, the sooner and faster the
weights swing to maximum (the earliest max advance)......the heavier the
weights, the same result. To answer your question, to obtain the earliest
movement and most rapid swing to maximum advance would entail either lighter
springs or heavier weights; but not a combination of light/light or
heavy/heavy. Is this too lightly heavy?
                                                                 Ron Forsee
                                                                 65
442-Meister

P.S. A good rule of thumb for a street/strip combo is about 14-18 degrees BTDC
initial advance to approx. 35 degrees at 3000 RPM maximum advance

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 13:12 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Desirable front end geometry (NOT!)

   Larry Pegg said (snip) "A-body cars from GM have a desirable front 
geometry"....

   Larry, don't believe all that you read. Put the front end of your 
A-body up on jackstands. Now that the wheels are at full droop, note 
how the tops of the tires lean in towards each other (lots of negative 
camber). Now put a jack under one lower control arm and slowly jack it 
upwards. Watch the tyre/wheel as you do this, you will see the tire go 
from leaning inwards at the top all the way to leaning outwards at the 
top as you jack the control arm up through its range of travel. That 
change prevents the tire from staying flat on the road and gripping 
with all its tread width - this is an extreme example of camber change 
with suspension travel and it is not good suspension geometry, it is 
absolutely horrible suspension geometry! On any well-engineered 
suspension this camber change should be undetectable by eye, it takes 
a camber gauge to measure it on any of the Mopar's I've owned, for 
instance.  

   An even quicker and easier way to see the poor camber curve on the 
GM A-bodies is to get a buddy to drive one over a speed-bump and watch 
the camber angle on the wheel/tire as it goes over the bump. This is 
how I first noticed how bad the geometry is! You can see the tops of 
the tires lean outwards as the speed bump pushes the suspension up 
into the wheelwells.

   When you go into a turn with a GM A-body the outside front tire 
does more of the work than any of the other three tires (the weight 
transfers to the outer two tires, so the inner two are lightly loaded 
and don't do much work; also these cars carry more than half their 
weight on the front wheels so it is the outside front tire that 
provides a majority of the grip needed to make the turn) and this is 
the very tire that is being tipped over by the camber change, reducing 
its grip at the very moment it is being asked to provide all it can.
To get maximum lateral grip the tire MUST be flat on the road or have 
very slight negative camber, and that is the reason for all the 
interest in re-engineering the front suspension on these cars using 
taller spindles, etc.

   Check out Fred Puhn's "How to make your car handle" or another book 
called "Performance Handling - performance techniques for the '90's" 
whose author I don't remember for lots of info on what makes a 
suspension good or bad.



- -John Carri

'72 Cutlass Supreme (daily driver)
'73 Plymouth Road Runner  (needs lots of work)

'74 Plymouth Satellite Custom (4 door, my first car, now gone to the 
happy pastures)

'73 Plymouth Satellite(2-door, 400" big block, I had to sell it and 
wish I hadn't)



   

   

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 16:29:53 EST
From: R4C442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bad Coil

Hey Collyn!
    Excellant point on the "grounding of the coil bracket" as presented by The
Kenster. I kind of think that what Ken meant (correct me if I'm wrong Ken) is
that it is very important to make sure the engine is at a true chassis ground.
This will usually  "accidently" occur when the average rodster adds solid
motor mounts or changes  the transmision/exhaust areas. But in real life, when
many of these areas are untouched (or remain stock), one must remember that
the engine is isolated from chassis ground by rubber motor mounts..the
transmission by a rubber bracket at the crossmember , and the exhaust system
usually by a non-conductive strap attached to the hangers. That is the reason
for the "braided" cable from the rear of the block to the firewall.
                                                            Ron Forsee
                                                            65 442-Meister

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 22:39:05 +0100
From: "Bert Enjoem" <rocket.455@worldonline.nl>
Subject: addres used parts

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Hi,
I'm Bert Enjoem and i live in Holland (Europe). I send you this mail =
because i am trying to find on the net some yunkyards for oldsmobile =
used parts. If you can help me out i would be gratefull.
Thanks and hear from you soon

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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hi,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I'm Bert Enjoem and i live in =
Holland (Europe).=20
I send you this mail because i am trying to find on the net some =
yunkyards for=20
oldsmobile used parts. If you can help me out i would be =
gratefull.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks and hear from you=20
soon</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01BE3DB3.31E3B700--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 01:47:26
From: <nip4103@yahoo.com>
Subject: .your site

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 trying to save less than 4 cents for each  
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 16:50:14 EST
From: EDZX6@aol.com
Subject: Re: detonation problem

I'm running 3:23 gears

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 16:53:27 EST
From: R4C442@aol.com
Subject: Re: addres used parts

Hi Bert!
      A real pleasure to hear from you, although I feel you may have under-
estimated us Olds owners (the fact that you had to add "Europe" to remind us
where Holland was!) What specific parts did you have in mind? And further,
when it comes to payment, are we going "Dutch"?

                                                            Ron Forsee
                                                            65 442-Meister
                                                            USA (North
America)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 16:54:22 EST
From: EDZX6@aol.com
Subject: Re: detonation problem

I'm using premiun fuel and I will try backing of the timing to 15/32 Thanks,
I'll let you know what happens.
Eddie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 17:10:58 EST
From: Ramrod442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Swapping a 425 for a 455

as long as all your parts are oldsmobile you'll be worry free

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 17:19:37 -0500
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

I second the General's motion!  True real cars must have the ignition in
the dash!  My 67 Cutlass isn't my daily driver anymore, but it used to
be.  I used to live in Dallas and I worked for a company that sold
satellite dishes.  That car drove all over Gods green earth down there
without any major problems....Now that I live in NJ, she doesn't see any
winters.  I have to consider the safety of others that may be driving
along with me in the snow..

Art

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 5 Jan 1999 00:53:58
From: <massi439@yahoo.com>
Subject: ..about your site

            We'll Submit Your Site To 

                    Over 900

     Search Engines, Directories, & Indices

         For A "One Time Cost" Of Only

                    $ 39.95


     ***  100% Money Back Guarantee  ***

*** Immediately Increase Your Sites Exposure ***

 For Less Than 4 Cents Each We Will Submit Your
 Web Site To Over 900 Of The Net's Hottest Search 
 Engines, Directories & Indices.

 If your site isn't listed in the Search Engines,
 how can people find you to buy your products 
 or services?
 
 For just $39.95 we'll take the work load off your
 back instead of you trying to do it manually which
 can take days to do.

 We're the professionals that are here to help
 you have a shot at having a successful marketing
 experience with the internet.

 You know as well as we that your time is
 best utilized managing your business and not
 sitting at some keyboard hours upon hours
 trying to save less than 4 cents for each  
 submission. See how it's kind of crazy to try
 to tackle this on your own.  It's just not 
 cost effective to try to do this yourself to
 save just $39.95.

 See why thousands and thousands of businesses 
 world wide both large and small have come to 
 us to utilize our services.  Hotels, Motels,
 On-Line Stores, Travel Agents, Colleges, 
 Universities, Governments, Fortune 500 companies,
 Movie Studios, Chambers Of Commerce and many,
 many more.  Shouldn't you give us a call now?

 To Learn More, Call Us At The Numbers Below.
 
 Call us toll free at (800) 771-2003 in the USA
 and Canada or outside the USA at (916) 771-4739
 and we'll provide you with all the necessary
 information to get you submitted Right Away.






To be removed from our mailing list, please
respond with the word remove in the subject.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 18:14:36 EST
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: HOT 455 for sale fast (moving to Korea)

OK list I just got orders for Korea in my hands and am going to have to move a
bunch of stuff so the wife can have some room while i am gone I have to leave
in March and don't need this setting on the engine stand (she will never be
able to roll it) THIS IS A FIRM PRICE 1600. 00 not a penny less + shipping.
I'll be out of it a year and could use the money on other things. I have some
other things for 68-72 sitting around here so let me know am having a going to
Korea sale. I wonder if they have internet service providers over there?
Should be able to still stay up on the list while  I'm gone but will kill me
not being able to drive and work on my baby, and to be away from the family
for a year is bad. OK well 1ST come first serve on this one. Thanks Chris
CHRIS SOMMERVILLE
69 442SC
the braket motor has a ton of stuff in it the guy spent about 6K on the build
up here is a partial listing 455+.30, venolia pistons #ven586, ported polished
C heads2.07 in 1.71 ex , aluminum roller rockers, 7/16 screw in studs with
guide plates,  mondello push rods  Eldbrock torker, Holley 3310, MSD 6AL HEI
W/accell suppercoil, Mildon gear drive, crane solid lift cam lift IN:533 EX:
555 duration @.50 IN 248 EX 258., Mildon HV oil pump, shaft, deep sump oil
pan. balanced, crank is .10/.10, chamfered crank holes. I have in addition to
this a main stud kit, new head bolts and restricors for it. runs great have it
on the stand right and was going to just refresh it not that it needs it but
just to know it was just done for next season.  give me a call if your
interested. I'm more interested in a mild motor and getting a few cars done
then I'll get back to racing. Let me know if your interested. If you want to
give me a call (910)487-1540. Thanks Chris

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 18:37:54 EST
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"? ('68  
Cutlass)

This happened to me once with my Che*y truck.  I had an underhood light that I
thought was handled with a mercury switch.  Turned out a mechanic had switched
it on and never switched it off.  For two days I kept opening the hood to look
for the problem, the light would come on and I assumed the light was going out
when I shut it.. WRONG!

Scott
71 4-4-2 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 17:38:13 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: addres used parts

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

   =20
   =20
    Hi,
    I'm Bert Enjoem and i live in Holland (Europe). I send you this mail =
because i am trying to find on the net some yunkyards for oldsmobile =
used parts. If you can help me out i would be gratefull.
    Thanks and hear from you soon
   =20
    Bert,
   =20
    What parts are you looking for and where are you trying to find =
them?
    Are you looking for some way to trasport them from the US/Canada
    to Holland?
   =20
    Mike B
    mbloomer@gateway.net
    ICQ# 19113713
    http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/


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<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hi,</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I'm Bert Enjoem and i live in =
Holland=20
    (Europe). I send you this mail because i am trying to find on the =
net some=20
    yunkyards for oldsmobile used parts. If you can help me out i would =
be=20
    gratefull.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks and hear from you =
soon</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>Bert,</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>What parts are you =
looking for and=20
    where are you trying to find them?</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>Are you looking for =
some way to=20
    trasport them from the US/Canada</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>to =
Holland?</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>Mike B<BR><A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:mbloomer@gateway.net">mbloomer@gateway.net</A><BR>ICQ#=20
    19113713<BR><A=20
    =
href=3D"http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/">http://members.tripod.co=
m/CutlassFreak/</A><BR></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0024_01BE3D89.29B69CC0--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 18:51:22 EST
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

Bob, Try this logic on for size...  I've been buying new vehicles for lots of
years, and babying them like crazy to keep them looking new. But it never pays
off.  Here's an example...I had an 81 Ch*vy truck that looked like it just
rolled out of the showroom until the paint started to fall off in '96.  If I
hadn't taken real good care of it, the paint would have fallen off a lot
sooner and GM would've covered a repaint.  In '96, they wouldn't even talk to
me.  So last summer, I bought a 71 4-4-2 convertible.  This is a car that I
can put lots of time and money into and still have something that appreciates
and that I appreciate tremendously.  BUT, I have to drive it to really
appreciate it.  i bought it for the fun.  So, I'm gonna go through it itil
it's showroom and I'm gonna drive it whenever it makes sense.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 19:19:58 EST
From: MITCH442@aol.com
Subject: Re: HOT 455 for sale fast (moving to Korea)

i need a front left fender for a 69 olds 442a front bumper and a posible a
wright fender

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 19:25:21 EST
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: pageing  frank latorre / rallye 350 club

im trying to locate the ph # of frank latorre, he is a member of the rallye
350 club in new jersey and is listed in JWO as a specialty advisor for rallye
350`s.  if anyone happens to know his ph #, or email address i would
appreciate it!                                                     ps. the ph
# in the back of JWO is incorrect,   the lady at that residence says it is a
type  o ,  she was very nice but is tired of being called frank.  ;o)     tia.
steven,  w30442cs@aol.com 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:33:14 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

Well, I have to chime in on this thread... the reason this list exists
comes down to me trying to us my '68 Cutlass as a daily driver. When I
bought it in late '93 (a one-owner, little old lady car that had 28,000
miles on it at the time) my intent was to use it as a winter beater. This
was based on my very good experience with my first old car, a '64 Skylark. 

The Cutlass was sorely lacking in the maintenance department though, and
needed a lot of attention to make it run properly. Trying to sort thru
some of the particularly thorny issues led me to wonder why there was no
place on the net to discuss Oldsmobiles, and I requested Chebucto start
this list. They said sure, as long as you run it. And the rest is
history... :)

What happened with the Cutlass maybe says more about me than the question
under discussion. It had a little body rot, and that bothered me. So I had
that fixed and the car painted. Then it needed new tires, so I got T/As
and a set of SSIIs. Then a new rear bumper. People kept telling me that
the car was too nice to drive in the winter. Next thing you know, I'm
putting it in shows and won't drive it in the snow. Finally, I threw in
the towel and sold the Buick, conceded that the Cutlass was going to be my
toy, and started adding stuff to it and doing some major detailing. My
buddies all like to kid me about my winter beater now. :)

I think the secret is getting a car you have no chance to start liking too
much to use as a beater. Otherwise (at least for me) it gets restored.
Heck, I even having to stop myself from doing that with the '78 Delta
which truly is my salt-beast these days. Maybe if it was a 2-door Holiday
88, but not for now. Anyway, these make pretty good beaters (both the
Cutlass and the Delta) because they are simple to work on, parts are
cheap, and they are pretty reliable. Just don't drive too much or the gas
bills will kill you!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:36:42 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: anyone have rims for sale?

Not on the list; respond to erb22@drexel.edu if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Edwin Burger <erb22@yahoo.com>
Reply-To: erb22@drexel.edu
Subject: anyone have rims for sale?

I'm looking to get two or four 15" x 8" rims, 5 on 4 3/4 bolt pattern,
with 3 1/2" or 4" backspacing.  The rims are going on a '70 442.  I
don't really care too much about the style, as long as they're cheap,
and I can get them ASAP.  I'm going to order steel rims on Wednesday
if nothing turns up by then.

Thanks a lot!
Ed

PS.  I'll pay a fair price for torque-thrust d's.

PPS.  I'm located in New Jersey, and I'd like to have the rims this
weekend, if possible.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 19:50:35 -0500
From: "Michael Davis" <mdavis@metrobankandtrust.com>
Subject: Korea moving sale

Chris,
Tried to reach you via private e-mail but came back.  Tried
Sommerville@aol.com.
I would like to know what you have available for the 1968.  I have a 1968
442 and always looking for some good hard to replace parts.  Know how you
feel, was a 13B for 8yrs in Army.  If you could contact me via e-mail would
be greatful.  Sorry for posting to main list.			Thanks
				Mike Davis
				68' 442
				

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 19:25:37 -0600
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
Subject: Re: History of the 80's

Jeremy wrote:

	Anyone come up w/ any info on the 80's H/O's or 442's...Haven't
gotten replies from Hurst or Olds yet   but there is so little material
available that I'm trying to dig it up.

	Try Mike Rothe's homepage at http://www.xtalwind.net/~hurstolds/
He's got a lot of info. about the G-body 442's and H/O's.  You might
also try Tom Lentz's site at http://www.ior.com/~tlentz/hurst.html  Both
of these sites have the link for the Olds Webring at the bottom of the
page, if you REALLY want to dig for some info.

	Hope this helps,

Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
Columbus, MS         1987 442

http://www.442.com/newman.html               1987 442
http://www.442.com/newmantape.html        Centennial Tape Info.  

	

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:31:32 -0500
From: "Glenn J. Martin" <martin.glenn@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Heat Pipes

What is the exact colour black the heat pipe that goes from the air
cleaner to the exhaust manifold on a 72 cutlass 350?
Is it gloss black or flat?

Glenn

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 17:38:53 -0800
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

O.k., o.k.,  I'm in.

My car started as a well used family 98 convertible. 

Still in o.k. shape, but not a show car. Just the logical (!) car for the
high school kid to drive -- big, safe, simple, fits a lot of people. 

I didn't grow up in a family that digs cars. My Dad was more into computers
(since 1951), but in driving my 1966 98 convertible, I found I really like
the comfort, power and uniqueness. Also in 1981, in Ca., there weren't many
convertibles left from the 60's and 70's and the LeBaron hadn't come along
yet so it was kind of neat. 

Then I got to UCLA and needed some chrome bit or other and heard about
junkyards. The rest is history -- chrome led to power seats, which led to
restoration, disk brakes, etc., etc.

Eventually this lead to my 66 Starfire too. You don't need to restore in a
hurry, just try to find a car with qualities that will endure. 

I'm still amazed that after 17 years, I still really like driving around in
my (now) huge 98 convertible. In fact just now its in the shop getting a new
rear end ratio.

I'm hoping for a 3.23, but will settle for a 3.08...


cf

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:11:41 -0500
From: "Todd M.Williams" <todd@wvadventures.net>
Subject: Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"? ('68  
Cutlass)

At 09:03 PM 1/10/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Can something like this happen?
>
>I put a new battery in the car 2 weeks ago. The guy at the parts place
>checked and said the other battery was dead. Installed new battery, car
>cranked and ran fine.
>
>Car has since sat in garage for last 2 weeks. Thought I'd try to fire it up
>this afternoon and nothing. Not even an interior light. Put the charger on
>and the interior lights now work - haven't tried to start it yet.
>
>Suggestions?
>
>TIA.
>
>

same thing is happening to me rite now $110 bucks fer new bat. and on my
2nd alt. and got a new voltage regulator still it will run but when i turn
if off the battery is dead as a door nail i give up if u ever figure it out
let me know please maybe i got a bad alt. AGIAN Arrr  o well it will stit
for a while 

Todd
 72 cutlass supreme
 74 442 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:36:39 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bad Coil

Collyn, Ron & List,

I was always under the impression that the circuit for the high-tension side
of the coil was from the 1) coil through the 2) coil wire to the 3) rotor to
the 4) distributor cap and plug wires to the 5) spark plug, across the gap to
the 6) engine block, through the engine block back to the coil, this setup
being for a remote coil -- not like the HEI system, # 2 would be eliminated
for those.  I'm certainly not saying that I'm absolutely right, just
remembered that I had trouble with a particular stock car's ignition system
until we ran a strap from the (rubber shock mounted) ignition system "plate"
that had the MSD box, rev limiter and coil on it inside the driver's
compartment.  The MSD box was additionally shock mounted on top of this plate
as well, so I know it was still insulated.  After we ran this ground strap,
never had another problem with it.

I also agree with Ron's comment about the rubber mounts.  That's what I was
trying to allude to -- on my car, since the small ground that was supposed to
go from the negative terminal to the sheet metal was broken and I didn't
connect the one at the back of the engine, the car would start and run OK, but
all the lights and gauges were either real dim or not working at all.  Really
stinks when you're trying to rely on an indication on the Rallye Pac oil
pressure gauge and it's saying there's no oil pressure in that fresh
rebuild..........

I'd like to ask MSD about this, if anyone would know, they would.  When I get
a reply I'll post it for everyone's (especially my own!) education.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:39:18 -0500
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Re: how do remove crome molding?

If memory serves, those moldings are the same as the windshield moldings.
There is a tool you can buy in any auto parts store that unclips the
moldings from the clips with the least amount of deformation.  It looks
kind of like an arrow head on the end of a putty knife.Unfortunately, if
the rust is as bad as you say then the studs that the clips mount to will
probably come off too. I had some experience with those things in the early
70's when I used to install vinyl tops.
				Good luck,
				R. Kevin Noon
				66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
				85 Delta 88 Royale Brougham (for sale)

- ----------
> From: Ramrod442@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: how do remove crome molding?
> Date: Sunday, January 10, 1999 7:16 PM
> 
> i have a 1965 olds vista cruzer and the lip for the back side glass is
rusted
> out.how do i get the crome molding off to remove the glass? 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:31:48 -0500
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Re: Dual Exhaust for 67 425

Mark,
	I know exactly what you're going through. I put a "built" 455 in my 66
Dynamic 88 Convertible. When I went to get headers for it, NO SUCH ANIMAL!
Mondello recommended headers for a P*ntiac Trans Am w/403 motor but they'd
still have to be "modified". Custom headers would cost about $1200.00 to
have made. Out of my league. So I will be capping off the extra hole in the
pass. side manifold and getting pipes bent to run duals. If you come up
with a better solution please let me know. 
				R. Kevin Noon
				66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
				85 Delta 88 Royale Brougham (for sale)

- ----------
> From: Mark A Janda <schnehe@juno.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Dual Exhaust for 67 425
> Date: Monday, January 11, 1999 12:23 PM
> 
> I have a 67 Delta 88 w/ a 425.  It has single exhaust.  I would like to
> change it over to dual exhaust, but the right side manifold has two
> outlets.  Do I need to find a different manifold, and if so, what is the
> type or casting number to look for?   Is there any way to still use the
> current manifold?   What about headers?  What do you think?  Please help
> out an Olds newcomer.
> 
> Mark J.
> 67 Delta 88 w/425

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 17:37:13 -0800 (PST)
From: jalkara <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: Re: beater

well my 69 442 is not a daily driver, but a driver.  it has moss and grass
growing out of the lower front quarters, small holes in the bottom of the
doors, holes in the rear quarters, small holes in the trunk and some
daylight in the floor on the driver side.  but it is a # matching 442
w/400, 4sp, 342posi and only 80k miles.  so it gets driven when i want to
row some gears and bark them skins, reasonably often.  it will remain this
way till someone wants it worse than me or i find the right donor body for
the running gear, like a 64-5 vc or post car, or a 50s-60s small econo car
that needs an engine.
smoke em till the wheels fall off
47rocket98

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:46:22 EST
From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Subject: Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"?  ('68 
Cutlass)

Unless you have a clock or radio that uses power when the car is off.  

Dave Paulison       1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida   1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

>You may have a short in the electrical system.
>To check this, disconnect the postive terminal and hook up a test 
>light
>between the cable and battery terminal.
>If everything is OK the light should not come on. 

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:46:22 EST
From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Subject: Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"?  ('68 
Cutlass)

On my '69 Cutlass there is also a relay mounted on the inside of the
drivers side fender, right behind the battery.  Hot (+) lead from the
battery goes right to it.  I replaced this, too, on mine (before I
replaced the alternator).  I believe it's the horn relay/key in ignition
buzzer.  Check it or replace it, it's cheap.  It may be your problem!

Dave Paulison       1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida   1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

On Sun, 10 Jan 1999 22:25:57 EST RARE73OLDS@aol.com writes:
>regulator is on the firewall( square cover )..
>

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:46:21 EST
From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Subject: Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"?  ('68 
Cutlass)

I once had an alternator with an internal short in it that would
completely drain my battery in about 4 or 5 days.  If I could get the car
started, it ~did~ charge the battery, run the lights, accessories, etc,
but if the car sat for any length of time, dead battery was the result. 
It really drove me crazy; I had checked everything else two or three
times.  Since it seemed to be charging normally, I didn't suspect it. 
Finally broke down and bought a new one, no dead battery problems since!

Dave Paulison       1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida   1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com
 
 "C. Casteel" <earthsci@pop.usit.net> writes:
>Installed new battery, 
>car
>cranked and ran fine.
>
>Car has since sat in garage for last 2 weeks. Thought I'd try to fire 
>it up
>this afternoon and nothing. 

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:47:30 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: Heat Pipes ( a bit long)

> What is the exact colour black the heat pipe that goes from the air
> cleaner to the exhaust manifold on a 72 cutlass 350?
> Is it gloss black or flat?

A little of both.  I'd say it's somewhere in the "eggshell" black
range.  Probably 70-80% gloss black.  You probably could get by with
painting it a high heat satin black from a spray can, if that's what you
want to do, versus custom mixing and paint guns, and it would probably
look just fine.  Depending on how close you want it to look to original.

Another method you could use on small parts like these is the "dip"
method.  You would need an oil based enamel however.  Something that
doesn't mix with oil.  Rustoleum makes a great oil based paint that
works well.

Pour water into a pail or container large enough to cover the entire
part to be dipped.  Then, pour a film of paint across the top of the
water.  Make sure it covers the entire surface.

Next, figure out how you will suspend the part so that nothing gets in
the way of paint adhesion, simalarly the way you would spray paint the
part.  In this case, there should be a hole for a screw or cotter pin at
the bottom end of the pipe.  Prep the pipe as you would normally do to
paint it.  Make sure it's clean clean clean!

Then, dip away.  Let the part go all the way under the paint. Then
slowly bring it up out of the container.  The paint will adhere to the
part, and you will get an even coat all around.  Of course, you might
even get some sagging or runs, but the part will be covered and look
amazingly nice considering that you know where it had just been.

Many manufacturer's used the dip method to save paint and time and no
overspray.  It works well, but again, you will have to be aware it won't
be perfect all the time.  This method works really well if you are doing
a bunch of small parts and pristine smooth finish isn't a factor. 
Again, you can do it in your garage without the muss and fuss of paint
guns or overspray.

Good luck,
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:46:22 EST
From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu> writes:
>I was wondering how many people on this list use their old Cutlasses
for>daily-drivers?

My Cutlass is most definitley a beater.  Father in law was the second
owner in 1971, gave to me and the wife when we got married (best wedding
present we got!)  It's an old four door with 210,000 miles on the ticker.
 Runs like a top, though.  Pulled the engine a few years ago for new
bearings, hardly any wear on any bearing surfaces.  Body is rusty in the
usual spots (rear quarters, behind rear window, etc), interior is kinda
shabby (ripped bench seat, yucky carpet, cracked steering wheel, no
headliner...dash pad is nice, though!), but it doesn't look that bad.  We
only put about 6000-7000 miles a year on it, and I would like to
'restify' it.  We'll be moving to a place with a garage, so we can keep
it inside then, and start doing some work on it.  We'll still use it as a
daily driver, and I'd like to be able to take it to some of the local
weekly car shows.  No major drivetrain mods planned; it'll be pretty
close to stock stuff.  


Dave Paulison       1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida   1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:48:44 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: History of the 80's

>         Try Mike Rothe's homepage at http://www.xtalwind.net/~hurstolds/
> He's got a lot of info. about the G-body 442's and H/O's.  You might
> also try Tom Lentz's site at http://www.ior.com/~tlentz/hurst.html  Both
> of these sites have the link for the Olds Webring at the bottom of the
> page, if you REALLY want to dig for some info.


Thanks for the plug, Doug!

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 21:03:23 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: the diff between stock 307/HO 307

>  The reason
>why I asked the diff is I'm looking for some ways to make my Olds catch
>a little more speed.

Don't we all...

 > I can't find a roller cam for a 307 anywhere.
>Does anybody know of a company that makes roller cam's for a 307?


Comp Cams makes them. They gave me a part number a while back, I'll look it
up if you like.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:05:15 -0500
From: "laurencesimpson" <laurencesimpson@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: History of the 80's

Jeremy:

    There are 2 good sources around:

1. Try to get a hold of an out of date book called The Hurst Heritage.  It
has a small history of all H/O's and a history of the company until about
1986 when Mr. Gasket bought it from Cars and Concepts.

and 2. the best source is to join the Hurst/Olds Club of America and get
their publication Thunder and Lightning.  You can buy back issues of some of
their past newsletters.

    Laurence Simpson
    HOCA #514
    88 Hurst/Olds Advisor

- -----Original Message-----
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, January 11, 1999 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: History of the 80's


>Jeremy wrote:
>
> Anyone come up w/ any info on the 80's H/O's or 442's...Haven't
>gotten replies from Hurst or Olds yet   but there is so little material
>available that I'm trying to dig it up.
>
> Try Mike Rothe's homepage at http://www.xtalwind.net/~hurstolds/
>He's got a lot of info. about the G-body 442's and H/O's.  You might
>also try Tom Lentz's site at http://www.ior.com/~tlentz/hurst.html  Both
>of these sites have the link for the Olds Webring at the bottom of the
>page, if you REALLY want to dig for some info.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
>Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
>Columbus, MS         1987 442
>
>http://www.442.com/newman.html               1987 442
>http://www.442.com/newmantape.html        Centennial Tape Info.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 21:06:54 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: 84 Cutlass on E-Bay

Really is a nice looking ride - but Massachusettes is a little too far for me
to drive in this weather - any body else?  It still has no bids (at $250 with
six hours left now) and does look to be a nice car.  From the sounds of his
description - if he doesn't sell it it's going to be hauled away...    :-(
Todd Daenzer
All the toys put away for the winter...


Edward Binnix wrote:

> There is an 84 Cutlass on e-bay with no reserve and it's $250 with only 20
> hours left! Looks pretty good, too.
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=55075606

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:09:39 -0500
From: "laurencesimpson" <laurencesimpson@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: pageing  frank latorre / rallye 350 club

Try this website  http//home.earthlink.net/~bonniejf/main/main.htm

    Laurence Simpson
    HOCA#514

- -----Original Message-----
From: W30442CS@aol.com <W30442CS@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, January 11, 1999 7:31 PM
Subject: pageing frank latorre / rallye 350 club


>im trying to locate the ph # of frank latorre, he is a member of the rallye
>350 club in new jersey and is listed in JWO as a specialty advisor for
rallye
>350`s.  if anyone happens to know his ph #, or email address i would
>appreciate it!                                                     ps. the
ph
># in the back of JWO is incorrect,   the lady at that residence says it is
a
>type  o ,  she was very nice but is tired of being called frank.  ;o)
tia.
>steven,  w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 20:29:35 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: HEI adj. vac. advance kits: summit vs. crane

Ron is dead on correct here (and some nifty techno-talk to boot)  but
even I got a little confused interpreting it.  For the simpler minded
out there like myself I would say go with what crane recommends.
When curving the dist the best way to go is to use the stock wieghts
as a baseline.  Go heavier on the springs to raise the rpm where you
get total advance, lighter to lower it.  A good curve kit will have an
assortment of springs.  For the wieghts, the opposite is true in that the
heaver the weight the lower rpm for total and lighter to raise it.  Keep
in mind your initial and total timing points are only part of your curve.
It's also how it gets there.  Light springs will give a quicker jump off
initial and level off near total.  Heavy springs will give a more gradual
advance off initial and be more rapid the closer it gets to total.  That's
why the call it a curve.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

>Hey Greg!
>    Try as I might, I cannot understand why an ignition kit would include
>"lighter springs and weights". The purpose of the the weights is to advance
>the timing as a result of the moment and rate they move due to centrifical
>force (the rotation of the distributor shaft). To change the point at which
>they begin to move and the rate of movement to their maximum swing is the
>function of the springs. The lighter the springs, the sooner and faster the
>weights swing to maximum (the earliest max advance)......the heavier the
>weights, the same result. To answer your question, to obtain the earliest
>movement and most rapid swing to maximum advance would entail either
lighter
>springs or heavier weights; but not a combination of light/light or
>heavy/heavy. Is this too lightly heavy?
>                                                                 Ron Forsee
>                                                                 65
>442-Meister
>
>P.S. A good rule of thumb for a street/strip combo is about 14-18 degrees
BTDC
>initial advance to approx. 35 degrees at 3000 RPM maximum advance
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 21:27:10 -0500
From: dgerow@student.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: Hurst/Olds Screen Saver

Hey all,

Well, my second attempt isn't so bad.  I made a Hurst/Olds Screen Saver
for you Windows finatics out there.  It's fully customizable with 8
images.  You may have to tweak the setting to you liking.

For anyone who is interested, please visit:
http://www.stonehill.edu/~dgerow
(Check out the Cutlass while you're there!)

or

email me directly to save list bandwidth at:  dgerow@stonehill.edu

dgerow@student.stonehill.edu

Either one should work.  If any of you do download it, its about 1.5 meg
and has an install/uninstall.  Please let me know what you think about
it and if interested, send me some pics/ideas for future versions.  I'd
like to hear your comments.

Thanks,

Dan Gerow

'69 4-4-2
'71 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 21:41:55 EST
From: Fireman431@aol.com
Subject: Re: any info on 66 cutlass convertible

Check the wiring out VERY well.


Larry

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 21:53:38 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

Chris Fair wrote:
Snipping a bit...

> Then I got to UCLA and needed some chrome bit or other and heard about
> junkyards. The rest is history -- chrome led to power seats, which led to

Didn't know UCLA had an auto mechanic and resto class :)

And yes the correct rear end is always important.  also a  :)

I guess I inherited the car nut gene from my dad and his brothers.  The
next oldest one to me had a really neat 55 or 56 Ford Sunliner
convertible with a Thunderbird engine in it.  Beautiful car and fast for
the time.  Also remember going down to the county lockup with his three
brothers and getting his butt out of jail for doing 114 mph in a 50 mph
zone (old Ky night time speed limit).  Also remember the judge toasting
him to the extent of a $114 fine, which in 1955-6-7 was a LOT of money.
I do believe he irritated the judge a little with the slight excess of
speed.  Been around cars all my life one way or another I guess.  I've
had a few nice cars and I plan on having several more before it's over
with.  BIG :)

And to some extent I've passed it on to my daughters.  They get caught
discussing what goes to whom, how they are going to chose, etc from time
to time.  I just hope they AREN'T in a hurry, because I'm not currently
planning on departing.  Now that both of them are somewhat comfortable
in driving automatics, they want to learn to row a standard.  So I guess
some time in the 83 RX7 will be in order when it gets home in a week or
so.  (You didn't think they were going to learn in my 69 S conv did
you?)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 12 Jan 1999 04:03:49 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: 350 Heads on a 330 (or Vice-Versa)

>the 45 degree CBA engines and 78 degrees in the 39 degree CBA blocks.  I've
>always wanted to know why they changed, did they find something out that was 

That would be interesting to find out; also, why the 39' for the Toro blocks
when the non-Toro's had 45' blocks?

BTW, Musclecar Review printed a correction to some error they made about
Olds engines, and in doing so, added the "expert" knowledge that Olds V-8's
came in two different Cylinder Bank configurations: 45' and 39', so of
course, cranks and distributors don't interchange among the two... ;)

 [snip]
>For informational purposes, Dave Smith lists only one pushrod for the 330's in
>stock replacement, and it has it listed as "330-4B" (anyone know if this is a
>block ID casting?) and the length is 8.334".  In contrast, the one he lists
>for the 350-403 engines are listed as 8.234".  To prove out that the 45 CBA
>blocks need longer pushrods, he lists the 425 stock pushrods as 9.594" and the
>455's as 9.547.  I know there are different configurations of the 425's, but

BTW, these longer pushrods are a nice way to compensate for aftermarket cams
with a reduced base circle using factory parts.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 23:50:02 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: HEI adj. vac. advance kits: summit vs. crane

One other thing I have noticed is that the factory weights are of much
better quality than the aftermarket units.  Have seen several sets of the
aftermarket weights crack or otherwise self destruct.
Regards.
Fred

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1714
*********************************

