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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1738


oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, January 27 1999     Volume 01 : Number 1738



Diesel 350
Re: D head/? head
1969 W-30 Restoration
Re: Classic Car Insurance
Re: Mailing list profile?
Re: Woodgrain
Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming
Re: Computer
Re: Woodgrain
Re; 72 Hurst Olds??

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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 19:22:22 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: Diesel 350

Hi all
I'm wondering about the diesel 350.  Was it a good engine as far as diesels
go?  Would it be something that you'd want to use to tow things?  Or was it
just a gasoline engine in a diesel disguise?  Anyone know the specs?  I'd
like to add another future car fantasy to my list that would be an 87
duallie Cutlass that is Olds powered.  Thanks.

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass (hibernating)
84 Calais ($200!)
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 19:15:50 EST
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: D head/? head

I WOULD LOVE TO HAVE AN EXTRA SET  OF "D" HEADS,  SO I CAN WORK THEM THE WAY I
WANT THEM WORKED.   I HAVE 1 "MYSTERY" Head on my car.      ALL the markings
have been ground off  there is not a single number or letter left on it.
I was told that one of the well know oldsmobile "guru's" does this as a common
practice.  You send him your heads to be worked  and they come back with all
the marking missing.            I hate having a 68 Hurst/Olds that only has 1
"D" head and the other head is the Mystery Head. 


Vinny
62 Starfire
68 Hurst/Olds

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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 19:58:53 EST
From: CARMAN442@aol.com
Subject: 1969 W-30 Restoration

I am restoringt a 1969 W-30 and am in dire need of a set of D heads. Anyone
out there have any information ?  

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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 19:59:27 -0500
From: "Michael Davis" <mdavis@metrobankandtrust.com>
Subject: Re: Classic Car Insurance

I live in OH and I have classic car insurance on my 1968 442.  It is
through State Farm Insurance and I used the stated value approach.  NADA
has a special book for the classic cars and I took the value from there
plus some added options that my car has.  I took it to my insurance agents
office and took photos.  The policy has to be in force year round and
mileage has to be under 3k, I think.  Also, the car has to be original.  No
modifications that will booster speed, racing etc.  It wasn't all that
expensive and it is full coverage with collision/comprehensive/uninsured.

					Mike Davis
					68' 442

- ----------
> From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Classic Car Insurance
> Date: Wednesday, January 27, 1999 5:34 PM
> 
> most classic car insurance companies only cover you somtimes.  like if
you
> were taking your car to the shop, riding in a parade, or going to the
parts
> store.  i'm not sure if all places are like this.
> 
> mikeytvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 20:08:28 EST
From: Lou0118@aol.com
Subject: Re: Mailing list profile?

How did this about and how did it start?  I don't remember seeing anything
about it.

Thanks.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 20:03:26 EST
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: Woodgrain

Dan, Most of the popular parts catalogs have them.  Some are better than
others. Check Hemmings or there are even a couple of ads in this month's
JWO...
Scott
71 4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 19:17:07 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@minspring.com>
Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming

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This is a way I've seen done but personally would never do,
especially if the motor has sat very long (more than a week)
for the simple fact that when you spin just the pump you get oil
to all the main oil galleys ~before~ any internal parts start rotating.
By pressurizing the oil galleys and rotating the motor by hand you
can get oil to every part of the motor without danger of scuffing a
bearing or such.  Just personal preference on my part, but why
take a chance on damaging something (even though you might
not see it's effects for a while) when you just went through all the
trouble to rebuild a motor?

Mike B
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

   =20
    When I Prime any engine (After Rebuild), I just remove the coil wire =
from
    distributor cap, and ground it via jumper wire.  I then proceed to =
turn the
    engine over until I get oil pressure for a minute or 2.  The fuel is =
also
    blocked at this point.  Why bother with removing the distributor and =
all
    that garbage.
   =20
    Steve Reed
    '70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
    Austin, TX

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>This is a way I've seen done but personally would never do,</DIV>
<DIV>especially if the motor has sat very long (more than a week)</DIV>
<DIV>for the simple fact that when you spin just the pump you get =
oil</DIV>
<DIV>to all the main oil galleys ~before~ any internal parts start=20
rotating.</DIV>
<DIV>By pressurizing the oil galleys and rotating the motor by hand =
you</DIV>
<DIV>can get oil to every part of the motor without danger of scuffing =
a</DIV>
<DIV>bearing or such.&nbsp; Just personal preference on my part, but =
why</DIV>
<DIV>take a chance on damaging something (even though you might</DIV>
<DIV>not see it's effects for a while) when you just went through all =
the</DIV>
<DIV>trouble to rebuild a motor?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>Mike B<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:mbloomer@mindspring.com">mbloomer@mindspring.com</A></FONT=
></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3><A=20
href=3D"mailto:mbloomer@gateway.net"></A>ICQ# 19113713<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/">http://members.tripod.co=
m/CutlassFreak/</A><BR></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px"><BR>When=20
    I Prime any engine (After Rebuild), I just remove the coil wire=20
    from<BR>distributor cap, and ground it via jumper wire.&nbsp; I then =
proceed=20
    to turn the<BR>engine over until I get oil pressure for a minute or =
2.&nbsp;=20
    The fuel is also<BR>blocked at this point.&nbsp; Why bother with =
removing=20
    the distributor and all<BR>that garbage.<BR><BR>Steve Reed<BR>'70 =
4-4-2=20
    'Ragtop<BR>Austin, TX</BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 20:11:53 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Computer

>On my Delta 88, the computer is not going into diagnostic mode even
>when I short circuit the top right two connection points.  It used to
>do so until last week.  It was telling me that the TPS is bad.  All I
>did was to test the TPS using a volt meeter.  After that, the Check
>Engine light does not go off at all and the milage seems to be getting
>worse.  Has anyone experienced similar problems with the ECM?  Any
>suggestions?  Thanks very much...


Not a good sign. Check the 2 fuses in your fuse block labeled ECM - there
should be a 10 amp and a 3 amp fuse. If the 10 amp one is smoked, you could
have a short going to any of the computer's "output" devices - AIR pump, M/C
Solenoid, vacuum relays, etc. One wire to each of these things is 'hot' and
can blow the fuse if pinched to ground (happened to me - car ran like sh*t).

The 3 amp fuse is for computer memory.....pulling it will reset the
computer. If it's dead, you have a problem with the CalPac prom.

If no fuses are blown....the ECM could be toast. I hope not.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 20:25:28 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Woodgrain

>I need the woodgrain for the dash and console for my 70 442.  Does anyone
know
>who may be producing these?
>Thanks,
>
>Dan


Dunno about Olds repro's, but I've seen real wood used to repair other
classic cars...thin, adhesive backed veneers (walnut) sold by woodworking
suppliers. If you wanna go that route, I have sources...

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 20:21:59 -0500
From: "Tina Walters" <jtmwalt@netsync.net>
Subject: Re; 72 Hurst Olds??

I received a phone call today, This guy has a 72 Cutlass he wants to sell,
he claims it is a H/O. It has a 455 eng. Hurst dualgate shifter & 10 bolt
rear. I have seen the car from the road, (looks kind of rough). He gave me
the vin#  3J57U2M214970, can anyone tell me anything from the vin??  He
also said the car has C heads, which wouldn't be correct for the year. The
car also comes with a 76 Toro 455 engine. He wants $1500.00 for all & said
he is oopen to offers. If anyone can tell me anything about verifying  it
is a H/O< or if anyone is interested in it let me know. the car is in
western N.Y. State. Thanks Joe Walters owner of an underappreciated 73 H/O

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1738
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