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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1740


oldsmobile-digest     Thursday, January 28 1999     Volume 01 : Number 1740



RE: FS 66-69 Cutlass/4-4-2 parts
Re: M21 or M22 Behind ~Worked~ 455
Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming
Engine, Oil Pump Priming.  One Last time here...
Re: Welding L. Control Arms for Traction
SV: A-arms, Poly bushings and shocks
RE: A-arms, Poly bushings and shocks
Re: Welding L. Control Arms for Traction
Re: Classic Car Insurance
Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming
Re: Body work HORROR story + PLEASE Help W/Sheetmetal!
Fw: WATCH OUT FOR THE "BADTIMES" VIRUS!!!! NON OLDS
RE: Bryceman?
Re: Woodgrain
Re: WATCH OUT FOR THE "BADTIMES" VIRUS!!!! NON OLDS
Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming
Re: Ashtray Cover & Boxed Ctrl. Arm
RE: A-arms, Poly bushings and shocks
th200c to th200-4r swap ?s
Classic Car Insurance : Hagerty
Re: Ring End Gap
Muncie Talk
Oldsmobile (70-72 W-Machine Cutlass Convert) In Moive
RE: M21 or M22 Behind ~Worked~ 455
66 Cutlass fs ( little long)
Re: M21 or M22 Behind ~Worked~ 455
Re: WATCH OUT FOR THE "BADTIMES" VIRUS!!!! NON OLDS
Re: M21 or M22 Behind ~Worked~ 455
Re: Ring End Gap
Convertibles FS: '63 f/85 & '68 442
To:	olds list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
To:	olds list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
To:	olds list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Welding L. Control Arms for Traction
Re: Primer Q's
Re: th200c to th200-4r swap ?s
70 Cutlass of E-bay
Re: A-arms, Poly bushings and shocks
Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming
Re: Woodgrain
Re: Welding L. Control Arms for Traction
Re: Woodgrain
Re: Welding L. Control Arms for Traction
Re: th200c to th200-4r swap ?s
Thanks!
Q-jet solved
Re: Oldsmobile (70-72 W-Machine Cutlass Convert) In Moive
Re: Oldsmobile (70-72 W-Machine Cutlass Convert) In Moive
2004r 200 swap
Re: Classic Car Insurance

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 11:18:41 -0500
From: "Heilala, Dave (AAI)" <heilalad@autoalliance.com>
Subject: RE: FS 66-69 Cutlass/4-4-2 parts

Thanks. Fortunately I don't need any of these. 

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Semantana Chris (ONEX) [SMTP:SemantanaC@tce.com]
> Sent:	Wednesday, January 27, 1999 9:51 AM
> To:	'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject:	FS 66-69 Cutlass/4-4-2 parts
> 
> -From a 66 Cutlass, passenger taillight assembly, includes everything but
> the light bulb, asking $40
> 
> -From a 66 Cutlass, backup lamp assemblies, one lens has a scratch, asking
> $40
> 
> -From a 67 Supreme, complete taillight lens set, includes everything but
> the
> exterior chrome pieces, asking $60
> 
> -For a 68-9 W-machine, lower ram air hose clamps, the clamps that hold the
> hose to the bumper scoop, $18 pair
> 
> Thanks,
> Chris Smetana
> Terre Haute, IN
> http://www.abcs.com/chris/
> 
> 1969 W-31
> 1969 4-4-2 parts car
> plus others

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 08:36:41 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re: M21 or M22 Behind ~Worked~ 455

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 17:10:41 EST
From: Oldsfire@aol.com
Subject: Re: M21 or M22 Behind ~Worked~ 455

Steve Reed   Why do you think that the M21 got the nickname "Rockcrusher"=
???

I thought the M22 was the 'Rock Crusher'?


Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 08:49:05 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming

> Mike B Wrote.....
> This is a way I've seen done but personally would never do,
> especially if the motor has sat very long (more than a week)
> for the simple fact that when you spin just the pump you get oil
> to all the main oil galleys ~before~ any internal parts start rotating.
> By pressurizing the oil galleys and rotating the motor by hand you
> can get oil to every part of the motor without danger of scuffing a
> bearing or such. 

How would this differ from what I described?  Turning the motor over with
everything installed would do the same would it not?  I'm talking about
turning over the motor via Starter, (As if you were going to actually run
the engine), not manually by turning the crankshaft. I guess I should have
been more descriptive, I couldn't imagine someone actually doing this by
hand!!.


Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX



>> When I Prime any engine (After Rebuild), I just remove the coil wire from
distributor cap, and ground it via jumper wire.  I then proceed to turn the
engine over until I >> get oil pressure for a minute or 2.  The fuel is also
blocked at this point.  Why bother with removing the distributor and all
that garbage.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 09:02:56 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Engine, Oil Pump Priming.  One Last time here...

> Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 20:57:15 -0700
> From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
> Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming
> 
> This may be so but, I always just prime my pumps before I start the eng.
> This fills the pump and the entire engine.
> 
> I wouldn't put vaseline in my multi grand eng.  Not that it wouldn't work
> just doesn't seem right. :-)
> 
> LP
> - -----Original Message-----

> From: Reed, Stephen <sreed@chatsworth.com>
> To: 'Olds' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Tuesday, January 26, 1999 12:58 PM
> Subject: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming
> 
> 
> >Since there has been a little chatter regarding the usage of Vaseline, I
> >just thought I'd share my knowledge bestowed upon me by my gear head
> >professor in Tech College.  He always recommended removing the plate off
a
> >new oil pump and packing the gears with Vaseline.  It help with picking
up
> >the oil in a brand new pump.  There is absolutely no oil in there on a
> fresh
> >rebuild, and it takes a while to actually pick up any oil to recirculate
> >through the engine, and the Vaseline acts as a 'Prime'.  It also breaks
> down
> >at 100' F so it's no big deal
> >
> >Steve Reed
> >'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
> >Austin, TX


Larry,
	What I was actually referring to by this thread is actually a prime
for the engine priming procedure.  Something to aid the NEW oil pump in
picking up fluids, AS the engine is being primed.  I was not meaning for
someone to pack their pump w/vaseline and have them consider 'The engine
ready to be fired up'.  This process still requires the standard method of
priming an engine.

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 12:51:20 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Welding L. Control Arms for Traction

>I was talking to this guy today, and he told me that I should pull my
>stamped control arms ('81 Delta 88), particularly lower control arms and
>have a plate put into the hollow bottom and welded for strength.  He told me

That's an admirable goal, and while what he suggested is standard practice
for a '64-'72 Cutlass, your car's rear suspension (shared with the '73-'77
A-bodies) allows you a simpler solution. Find a rear sway bar from a
junkyard '73-'77 A-body or a '78-'91 rwd B or C body; make sure to get the
mounting bracket, which bolts inside the channel of the rear lower control
arm. May as well get the mounting bolts with it.

Then, look at the lower control arm of your Delta; chances are that there
are two holes drilled through the arms, which will line up perfectly with
the two holes on those mounting brackets (leave the mounting bracket bolted
to the sway bar). If so, you just slide the stabilizer bar into place,
install the four bolts, cinch them down, and *voila*, you've boxed your
lower control arms. In fact, welding a plate of steel would preclude you
from easily using a factory-style rear sway bar.

>I am concerned about the drivability of the car if I do this.  What would it
>do for handling/cornering/ride.  I can't really see it do anything negative.

You'll have to get used to your car cornering flatter, and the rear
suspension losing much of its flex. You'll have to resist the urge to take
highway off-ramps 10-20mph faster than you can take them now. Aside from
that, you won't notice much of a difference; ride quality remains the same.

I did this to my '78 Electra (used a bar from a '76 Monte Carlo I
scrapped), and it improved the handling. As far as traction, though, I
think that's a lost cause, though air bags in the rear springs might help.

________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	    MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
http://studentweb.providence.edu/~rbarry/wheels/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 19:01:08 +0100
From: "Trond-Jarle Pedersen" <trondped@c2i.net>
Subject: SV: A-arms, Poly bushings and shocks

> 1) How hard is it to take the A-arms out to change the bushings?

Easy if you already got the springs out and the ball joints off..
 
> 2) Are the bushings themselves a bitch?

Might be, a hydraulik press will do this easily.
(as in taking the A-arms to a machine shop to have them remove and instal
the new ones (1/2 hour work).)

> 3) Is it worth it (for handling)?

Yes.

> 4) What about noise and ride?

A bitt more noise and you will feel the smal bumps in the road

> 5) How much would it cost for the parts?

Summit lists energy kits (front and rear) for 167$ (cutlass) and P-S-T 100$
front only
 
> 6) Are the bushings worth changing in the rear?

Again yes.

> 7) and since the shock is out, what about a set of stiff, good handling
> shocks (especially if the car is a little lowered).  Sooo, what would be
> good, well priced, front shocks that would be stiff.

I my self use Koni`s (adjustable) all around but they cost 89$ each.
KYB is a god alternative with a firm ride for about 60$ a pair.

> Trans Am sway bar and a set of polybushings and end-links for that as
well. 

Yes, Yes this will realy improve your handling.

 >If I could only hook-up, it would go great too.

This will be your BIG problem

> lower suspension and air-shocks, she should handle and ride well.  
> The Big 455 will get me in trouble again, however.  Igor

 
By the way Igor, you know that: the only substitute for qubik inches are
more qubik inches :-)



Trond-Jarle Pedersen
ICQ:15898213
mailto:trondped@c2i.net

69 F-85

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 13:35:27 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: A-arms, Poly bushings and shocks

> have to take the shock and front springs out.  While I am there, might as
> well take the A-arms off and put some poly bushings in it.  My question
> is:
Hey Joe P, looks like Igor's might have the disease too :)

> 1) How hard is it to take the A-arms out to change the bushings?
Not very if you have the proverbial California car.  Most will require a
hand held sledge for use with the pickle fork to separate the spindle from
the control arms.  If you do this yourself, just don't swing and miss and
hit your hand, or leg, or car.

> 2) Are the bushings themselves a bitch?
They weren't for me.  I rebuilt the front end of my GTO with the only
'special' tool being used, a ball joint C-clamp to install the new lower
ball joints.  Used basic hand tools; ratchet set and wrenches to remove the
control arms and other items; spring compressor for the coil springs;
penetrating oil for those stubborn bolts and also to lubricate the drill
bits when drilling; drill to drill out the old rubber bushings, yes I
actually drilled the rubber not the metal sleeve or anything; a punch,
hammer and chisel to collapse the metal bushing sleeve into the bore and
then removed the old sleeve; marine grease (like the kind for wheel bearing
for a boat trailer) to lubricate the new bushings to aid in installation; a
'bushing driver' - this depends on the size of bushings you have, basically
I used a small section of pipe that fit onto the metal sleeve of the new
bushings, then used a 2x4 block of wood to distribute the load on the
'bushing driver' when I hit it with the hammer.  It was recommended I use
some metal bar stock instead of a 2x4 since it's more durable as I went
through a few pieces of scrap 2x4.  This method worked perfect for me after
learning a 'technique' after installing the first bushing.  Note: this was
my first front end rebuild too.

> 3) Is it worth it (for handling)?
If your bushings are worn, yes.  And if you are upgrading to the poly
bushings as you stated, another yes.

> 5) How much would it cost for the parts?
PST probably has the best prices, at least they did a few years ago when I
was shopping.

> 6) Are the bushings worth changing in the rear?
Well, since you are having the traction problem, yes, especially poly
bushings.  Since poly bushings won't give or deflect as much as the stock
rubber ones, it will aid in the transfer of weight and thus getting power to
the rear wheels.  And air bags will help a lot too, especially in the right
spring.

> 7) and since the shock is out, what about a set of stiff, good handling
> shocks (especially if the car is a little lowered).  Sooo, what would be
> good, well priced, front shocks that would be stiff.
I'm partial to KYB as someone had suggested before.  Again PST had the best
price when I was shopping.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris/

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 13:32:56 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Welding L. Control Arms for Traction

...particularly lower control arms and have a plate put into the hollow
bottom and welded for strength.
________

This is actually a good practice.  Basically, suspension systems are
designed to function with certain types of motion through the built-in
pivot points and flexures of the system.  Any distortions of the suspension
at points other than the intended pivot points (as in, flexing of the
control arms) has a detrimental effect on both handling and traction.
_Stiffening_ the suspension and chassis structural members will always
benefit the car by allowing the system to work more like it was designed to
work.  Note that I use the term stiffening as opposed to strengthening, as
the issue isn't the ultimate strength of the components but their ability
to resist unintended bending and deflections (although I find this is the
same sort of loosing argument as trying to correct people who say a car is
"fast" when they mean "quick").

Note also that I'm not referring to stiffening the springs or shocks, but
the structural elements like the control arms and frame attach points.
Now, stiffening springs or sway bars will often serve to mitigate some
unintended deflection by limiting suspension travel to a point that these
structural components don't have a chance to deflect.  (Note that this same
phenomena also helps cover us a less-than-optimum suspension geometry by
not allowing the suspension to deflect enough to reach the point in the
travel where the geometry gets bad.  While this does improve handling, it
is not necessarily the preferred solution.  Stiffer springs can cause the
tires to loose full contact with the road surface on less than smooth
roadways.  Unfortunately, even the best tires in the world have a difficult
time generating grip when not in contact with the asphalt.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 14:02:02 EST
From: BradRoss79@aol.com
Subject: Re: Classic Car Insurance

In a message dated 1/28/99 6:46:04 AM Pacific Standard Time, Lou0118@aol.com
writes:

<< << I think the original post was for an '80 442(?) When I called Hagerty
about
  my '87 442 they wouldn't insure it because it was too "new". I don't know
  what the cutoff date is though. >>
 
 I believe you are correct.  I think the vehicle has to be 25 years or older.
  >>
You are almost correct.  I went with Hagerty on my oldsmobiles.  They are
great, but I haven't made any claims yet.  They said that their cutoff is
1979, but they will consider newer cars also.
B. Ross

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 15:23:32 -0500
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming

>> By pressurizing the oil galleys and rotating the motor by hand you
>> can get oil to every part of the motor without danger of scuffing a
>> bearing or such.
>
>How would this differ from what I described?

The answer is in the last sentence. When you turn the motor over via the
starter, the internals are moving WITHOUT being lubed first. No
oil.......metal to metal.........premature wear.

You are only turning the crank a turn or two to "open" the oil passages.
You'll know if you did right when oil comes out all the pushrods.

When we do my buddy's race motor we spin the oil pump (with a drill)until
the oil pressure hits about 80 psi and then rotate the crank. You'll see the
oil gauge jump and then hold fairly steady. Then we remove the oil filter
and prime it a bit more to make sure there is no air in the system.
Turning the motor over with

> I couldn't imagine someone actually doing this by hand!!.


Naw....I better not make say what I was gonna..........flame suit is out to
the cleaners. ;-)

Take Care,
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 15:34:12 -0500
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Body work HORROR story + PLEASE Help W/Sheetmetal!

Stephen,

I'm no body expert as this next question will probably show. Can't you cut
the floorpan out again and trim it up to level things out?

I just thinking that you have to remove it again anyway and it sounds like
you have too much material (metal) there.

Educate me,
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 14:51:53 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Fw: WATCH OUT FOR THE "BADTIMES" VIRUS!!!! NON OLDS

Master Lou
lbiggs@intertek.net

JOKE!!! No Flames required

> Subject: WATCH OUT FOR THE "BADTIMES" VIRUS!!!!

> If you receive an email entitled "Bad Times," delete it immediately!  Do
> not
> open It! Apparently this one is pretty nasty. It will not only erase
> everything on your hard drive, but it will also delete anything on disks
> >within 20 feet of your computer. It demagnetizes the stripes on ALL of
> your
> credit cards.
> 
> It reprograms your ATM access code, screws up the tracking on your VCR
and
> uses subspace field harmonics to scratch any CD's you attempt to play.
> 
> It will re-calibrate your refrigerator's coolness settings so all your
ice
> cream melts and your milk curdles.
> 
> It will program your phone autodial to call only your mother-in-law's
> number.  This virus will mix antifreeze into your fish tank.  It will
drink
> 
> all your beer.  It will leave dirty socks on the coffee table when you
are
> expecting company.
> 
> It will replace your shampoo with Nair and your Nair with Rogaine, all
> while
> dating your current boy/girlfriend behind your back and billing their
hotel
> 
> rendezvous to your Visa card.  It will cause you to run with scissors and
> throw things in a way that is only fun until someone loses an eye.
> 
> It will give you Dutch Elm Disease and Tinea.   It will rewrite your
backup
> 
> files, changing all your active verbs to passive tense and incorporating
> undetectable misspellings which grossly change the interpretations of key
> sentences.
> 
> If the "Bad Times" message is opened in a Windows95 environment, it will
> leave the toilet seat up and leave your hair dryer plugged in dangerously
> close to a full bathtub. It will not only remove the forbidden tags from
> your mattresses and pillows, but it will also refill your skim milk with
> whole milk.  It will replace all your luncheon meat with Spam.  It will
> molecularly rearrange your cologne or perfume, causing it to smell like
> dill
> pickles.  It is insidious and subtle. It is dangerous and terrifying to
> behold.
> 
> It is also a rather interesting shade of mauve.
> 
> These are just a few signs of infection.
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 13:14:39 -0800
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Bryceman?

Bryce is an itinerant listmember. I think he's on the digest at the moment.
Some of us have had the pleasure of meeting him in Lansing two (?) years
ago.
Good guy. Obviously excellent web designer providing valuable service to our
community, such as it is.  As noted before,
442.com is his domain figuratively and literally. 

And he'd be much more likely to be looking at someone's 23 year old daughter
as he's around 30 these days. 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Master Costanzo [mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 1999 6:34 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Bryceman?
> 
> 
> Who is Bryceman and how did he get that 442.com domain?  Is he a list
> member?  Is that site just his own private site?  Does he 
> have a daughter around the age of 23?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 16:11:45 EST
From: MB35068@aol.com
Subject: Re: Woodgrain

try year one they have all the wood grain for 1970 models	
                                                                     mb35068

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 16:15:35 -0500
From: "Erik Gertsen" <ainode@frontiernet.net>
Subject: Re: WATCH OUT FOR THE "BADTIMES" VIRUS!!!! NON OLDS

rofl
ps it will also cause rare and debilitating diseases resulting in
uncontollable posts to mailing lists!
Erik
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net>
To: Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, January 28, 1999 3:51 PM
Subject: Fw: WATCH OUT FOR THE "BADTIMES" VIRUS!!!! NON OLDS


>Master Lou
>lbiggs@intertek.net
>
>JOKE!!! No Flames required
>
>> Subject: WATCH OUT FOR THE "BADTIMES" VIRUS!!!!
>
>> If you receive an email entitled "Bad Times," delete it immediately!  Do
>> not
>> open It! Apparently this one is pretty nasty. It will not only erase
>> everything on your hard drive, but it will also delete anything on disks
>> >within 20 feet of your computer. It demagnetizes the stripes on ALL of
>> your
>> credit cards.
>>
>> It reprograms your ATM access code, screws up the tracking on your VCR
>and
>> uses subspace field harmonics to scratch any CD's you attempt to play.
>>
>> It will re-calibrate your refrigerator's coolness settings so all your
>ice
>> cream melts and your milk curdles.
>>
>> It will program your phone autodial to call only your mother-in-law's
>> number.  This virus will mix antifreeze into your fish tank.  It will
>drink
>>
>> all your beer.  It will leave dirty socks on the coffee table when you
>are
>> expecting company.
>>
>> It will replace your shampoo with Nair and your Nair with Rogaine, all
>> while
>> dating your current boy/girlfriend behind your back and billing their
>hotel
>>
>> rendezvous to your Visa card.  It will cause you to run with scissors and
>> throw things in a way that is only fun until someone loses an eye.
>>
>> It will give you Dutch Elm Disease and Tinea.   It will rewrite your
>backup
>>
>> files, changing all your active verbs to passive tense and incorporating
>> undetectable misspellings which grossly change the interpretations of key
>> sentences.
>>
>> If the "Bad Times" message is opened in a Windows95 environment, it will
>> leave the toilet seat up and leave your hair dryer plugged in dangerously
>> close to a full bathtub. It will not only remove the forbidden tags from
>> your mattresses and pillows, but it will also refill your skim milk with
>> whole milk.  It will replace all your luncheon meat with Spam.  It will
>> molecularly rearrange your cologne or perfume, causing it to smell like
>> dill
>> pickles.  It is insidious and subtle. It is dangerous and terrifying to
>> behold.
>>
>> It is also a rather interesting shade of mauve.
>>
>> These are just a few signs of infection.
>>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 12:37:34 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming

> How would this differ from what I described?  Turning the motor over
with
> everything installed would do the same would it not?  I'm talking
about
> turning over the motor via Starter, (As if you were going to
actually run
> the engine), not manually by turning the crankshaft. I guess I
should have
> been more descriptive, I couldn't imagine someone actually doing
this by
> hand!!.
=================================
Kind of the same. Except, with the drill, you have all the oil where
you want it before anything even moves. When you crank the engine with
the starter, all of those parts inside are moving with no oil until
the pump primes and gets the oil there.
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 16:20:39 EST
From: MB35068@aol.com
Subject: Re: Ashtray Cover & Boxed Ctrl. Arm

have 1970 cs both parts requested lets talk e-mail mb35068@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 15:32:54 -0600
From: <mljohns2@collins.rockwell.com>
Subject: RE: A-arms, Poly bushings and shocks

Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

To:   "'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
cc:
Subject:  RE: A-arms, Poly bushings and shocks

> 7) and since the shock is out, what about a set of stiff, good handling
> shocks (especially if the car is a little lowered).  Sooo, what would be
> good, well priced, front shocks that would be stiff.


I have used KONI shocks and struts on all of my vehicles and are very happy
      with them. Not only are they fully adjustable for stiff or

soft ride, but if they do fail you can send back to the outlet and have
      them rebuilt for the fraction of what new Monroes cost. I have used

them on my 1980 Olds for about 5 years now, coupled with my Eibach springs
      and graphite impregnated urethane bushings with sway  bars

on the front and rear gives me a car that just begs to be taken through the
      corners. They are the last shock that I will ever buy.



Mike Johnson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 13:33:54 -0800
From: andrewc@novell.uidaho.edu
Subject: th200c to th200-4r swap ?s

Hello list, 

I am getting ready to do a th200c to th200-4r conversion to my '84 
delta 88. I have found what appears to be a good shop that is 
willing to work with me. They have a core th200-4r out of an '84 
delta wagon for $50. Here's the plan: Rebuild the th200-4r to Olds 
442/Buick GNX (+/-) specs with shift kit. I will also be changing the 
rear end to 4.10s. From what I have read on the olds faq, there are 
differing quality trannys for different applications - ie - the 442/GNX 
trannys were built with more heavy duty parts, etc. Should I hold 
out for a better core? 

I have some shop manuals for early '80s olds and there is mention 
of a different PROM in the computer for different transmission/rear 
end gear combinations (no details, however). Is this true? If so, am 
I going to have weird problems after the swap?

Is my computer 'ready' for the th200-4r? Does the computer 'care' 
what tranny is in the car? The olds faq mentions that 4th gear is 
activated by the valve body in '88 and older trannys. That tells me 
that the computer will control lock up from the vehicle speed 
sensor and other engine sensors. BTW - the th200-4r is listed as 
an option for this car.

The shifter: I will be missing one gear on the 'PRNDL'. Specifically, 
there will be not enough detents on the column shift. Will I still be 
able to select *all* gears? Will O.D. be 'D', and L1 be L2? Is this 
going to be a 'hack'? 

I have also thought of buying a donor car (ala Igor T. - Nice car 
Igor!) and rebuilding the engine/trans and swapping it in. I found a 
'77 delta with 403 and unknown transmission. Apparently running. 
The only problem there, is that I *really* want the O.D. tranny.

Once I do this, I will have spent mega-bucks on this car, but figure 
it beats buying a *new* car. My car is in very good original 
condition, minus transmission. Future plans are to replace the 307 
with a 350 or 403. This could be years into the future, but at least I 
will have a tranny that can hack the extra power. 

Thanks much!

Andrew Conkey
84 Delta 88 Coupe a.k.a. 'Conestoga'

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 16:45:47 -0500
From: "jlabay" <jlabay@neo.rr.com>
Subject: Classic Car Insurance : Hagerty

I called Hagerty Classic Insurance and they are willining to insure my 80
442 W-30 at an agreed value of $10,000.  Premium for the year is going to be
$187.  I have no mileage limit but I "should" only drive it to shows,
parades, etc.  It is for full coverage and the car has to be stock, which
mine is.  Does that premium sound good?

Jason Labay  Akron, OH
80 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 13:45:13 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re: Ring End Gap

> Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 02:03:05 -0600
> From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
> Subject: Ring End Gap/Who to Believe?

>I bought C&A zero gap rings for my 455 motor. Mondello recommends .014" -
> .016" on the top ring for street use and .012" - .014" for the second ring
> with street use. I called C&A and they recommend .018" - .020" for the top
> ring/strret use and .016" for the second ring. So who to believe here??
> I went .017" - .018" on the top ring and .016" on the second ring.
> Mondello's tech reference manual states .016" - .018" for
> bracket/competition use on the top ring and .014" - .016" on the second
> ring.
> Anyone else have this setup??

> Pettrix@prodigy.net

Peter,
	I was always told to have .004 of ring end gap per inch of bore.  I
did not hear that there were any differences to the top or second ring as
far as clearances.

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 13:55:55 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Muncie Talk

> Let me clear it up for ya.
 
[SNIP]

> The lower angle (I believe its 11 degrees) increases the
> load carrying capacity of the gears at the expense of the increased noise.
> The reason for absence of the noise in 4th gear is that 4th is a direct
> output from the input (1:1 ratio), and there are no significant gears
> involved. 

OK sounds exactly what I had ~when~ my 4-4-2 was running. ;(

> M21's were factory installed in many many big block high horse GM muscle
> cars from 427 Corvettes to RA400 Goats to W30 442s to 454 Chevelles. They
> are plenty capable of handling 500+ ft/LB torque and just as much
> horsepower. Just make sure your M21 is in good mechanical condition. 
> Inspect it thoroughly and if you question it at all rebuild it. 
> At least new bearings and synchronizers.

I have NO way of knowing this as this was the transmission I pulled from my
parts car ('70 4-4-2).  Any suggestions besides pulling the side plate and
looking at the gears and synchros?


When I got my 4-4-2 it had a 350 and an M22 in it.  The M22 worked great,
and that the reason of this whole thread.  Can/Should I trust the M21 that
sat since 1977 in a cow pasture?

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 17:23:13 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Oldsmobile (70-72 W-Machine Cutlass Convert) In Moive

Movie "Joyride" the star is this cutlass, its a ....great car, trashy movie,
just rent it to see the car, its worth it

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 17:27:30 -0500
From: "Gary Couse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: M21 or M22 Behind ~Worked~ 455

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Oldsfire@aol.com
> Sent: Wednesday, January 27, 1999 5:11 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: M21 or M22 Behind ~Worked~ 455
>
> Steve Reed   Why do you think that the M21 got the nickname
> "Rockcrusher"???


What I would like to know is these two transmissions rated Hp and torque
capabilities. They may hold up to a stock or mild big block but a BB putting
out 1,000+ Hp might just prove the nickname wrong... Anyone got the specs or
link to the info?

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 14:31:33 -0800
From: "noelle r murphy" <MURPH2@prodigy.net>
Subject: 66 Cutlass fs ( little long)

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Regrettalby,  because of health and financial issues I must sell my 66
Cutlass Holiday Coupe.  Here are the specifics.

1966 Cutlass Holiday Coupe
Blue w/ Blue bucket interior
330 ci 4bbl
2 speed Jetaway auto
52,000 miles ( maybe 10 on rebuilt tranny)
All owner documentation ( Owners manual,  Owner Protection Plan Booklet w/
Protecto plate,  1966 Oldsmobile Chassis sevice Manual)


Left front fender crunched in hit and run before I bought it.

I have all parts to repair.  

Front Bumper
Core support
Inner and Outer fender
Headlight bezel

I am not looking to make a profit on the car,  I just want to get pretty
close to what I have in it.  Other than the body damage ( rest of car is
arrow straight ).  The car runs and drives perfect.  Interior about 50%
complete,  needs carpet and back seat redone.  I would rather sell the car
whole,  ( Don't think landlady would approve of me parting out in driveway)
.  Car is located in Bremerton,  Wa. Breaks my heart to do this,  but there
will be other Oldsmobile's in my future, after all these things pass.      
 

asking $ 2500  obo

				Thank You In Advance

							Paul & Noelle

murph2@prodigy.net
(360) 479-2135


- ------=_NextPart_000_01BE4ACA.E72A2260
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<html><head></head><BODY bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF"><p><font size=3D2 =
color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Arial">Regrettalby, &nbsp;because of health =
and financial issues I must sell my 66 Cutlass Holiday Coupe. &nbsp;Here =
are the specifics.<br><br>1966 Cutlass Holiday Coupe<br>Blue w/ Blue =
bucket interior<br>330 ci 4bbl<br>2 speed Jetaway auto<br>52,000 miles ( =
maybe 10 on rebuilt tranny)<br>All owner documentation ( Owners manual, =
&nbsp;Owner Protection Plan Booklet w/ Protecto plate, &nbsp;1966 =
Oldsmobile Chassis sevice Manual)<br><br><br>Left front fender crunched =
in hit and run before I bought it.<br><br>I have all parts to repair. =
&nbsp;<br><br>Front Bumper<br>Core support<br>Inner and Outer =
fender<br>Headlight bezel<br><br>I am not looking to make a profit on =
the car, &nbsp;I just want to get pretty close to what I have in it. =
&nbsp;Other than the body damage ( rest of car is arrow straight ). =
&nbsp;The car runs and drives perfect. &nbsp;Interior about 50% =
complete, &nbsp;needs carpet and back seat redone. &nbsp;I would rather =
sell the car whole, &nbsp;( Don't think landlady would approve of me =
parting out in driveway) . &nbsp;Car is located in Bremerton, &nbsp;Wa. =
Breaks my heart to do this, &nbsp;but there will be other Oldsmobile's =
in my future, after all these things pass. =
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;<br><br>asking $ 2500 =
&nbsp;obo<br><br>&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;Thank You In =
Advance<br><br>&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;Paul &amp; =
Noelle<br><br>murph2@prodigy.net<br>(360) 479-2135<br><br><br></p>
</font></body></html>
- ------=_NextPart_000_01BE4ACA.E72A2260--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 17:59:12 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: M21 or M22 Behind ~Worked~ 455

1000horsepower would spit the M20, M21, and the famous M22 all over the
place!!!  Sounds to me your going to be looking for a Richmond trans. Either
in a 4 speed  or  5 speed...get yourself a catalog from them...Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 17:06:52 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: WATCH OUT FOR THE "BADTIMES" VIRUS!!!! NON OLDS

Erik:
I knew I felt strange, hell, I washed the dishes when I got home, rare
indeed!
Lou
- ----------
> From: Erik Gertsen <ainode@frontiernet.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: WATCH OUT FOR THE "BADTIMES" VIRUS!!!! NON OLDS
> Date: Thursday, January 28, 1999 3:15 PM
> 
> rofl
> ps it will also cause rare and debilitating diseases resulting in
> uncontollable posts to mailing lists!
> Erik

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 18:05:45 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: M21 or M22 Behind ~Worked~ 455

Forget even the last reply i sent   1000 horsepower!!!! ( definitely not an
Olds that for sure)are you serious...what are you building a Pro Stock....I
dont even no if Richmond makes a trans for that....Lenco does...Big Bucks
Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 17:11:20 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Ring End Gap

Reed:
We went with .0025 to 3.300 per inch of bore diameter, top ring does run
quite a bit hotter, more expansion?? But that was on a durn Mopar!
Lou

- ----------
> From: Reed, Stephen <sreed@chatsworth.com>
> To: 'Olds' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Re: Ring End Gap
> Date: Thursday, January 28, 1999 3:45 PM
> 
> > Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 02:03:05 -0600
> > From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
> > Subject: Ring End Gap/Who to Believe?
> > Pettrix@prodigy.net
> 
> Peter,
> 	I was always told to have .004 of ring end gap per inch of bore.  I
> did not hear that there were any differences to the top or second ring as
> far as clearances.
> 
> Steve Reed
> '70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
> Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 18:24:36 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Convertibles FS: '63 f/85 & '68 442

From the newsgroups...

If interested, e-mail the people directly, NOT TO ME OR THE LIST.


>i am looking to sell or trade a 1963 olds f/85 conv. mint condition has a 
white
>top and burgundy /red body with same interior, auto power steering,no dents or
>rust will entertain a fair offer  E-mail jsierp@aol.com



>Yellow '68 442 with black ragtop. Mechanical is great, still needs body work.
>Please don't respond if you are not willing to part with $6000. Texas car.
>email me at rink@cyberramp.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 18:22:16 -0500
From: Roger Nienberg <nienberg.2@wright.edu>
Subject: To:	olds list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 18:23:03 -0500
From: Roger Nienberg <nienberg.2@wright.edu>
Subject: To:	olds list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 18:24:11 -0500
From: Roger Nienberg <nienberg2@wright.edu>
Subject: To:	olds list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 16:37:22 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Welding L. Control Arms for Traction

- -----Original Message-----
From: Igor T. '81 DRB 455 <igor455@home.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: January 27, 1999 10:42 PM
Subject: Welding L. Control Arms for Traction


>I was talking to this guy today, and he told me that I should pull my
>stamped control arms ('81 Delta 88), particularly lower control arms and
>have a plate put into the hollow bottom and welded for strength.  He told
me
>that when I punch it, the lower control arms flex (makes sense as they look
>cheap for all that power).  With the welded plate on the bottom (some hard
>material), they would not flex and the car would hook up better.  He said
to
>do this, put polyurethane bushings in, put the battery in the trunk and
that
>should do the trick.  Now I have 255/60/15 tires on the car and a posi and
>no traction.  I wanted 15x10s and 295/50/15 tires but he said to go with
>15x8s (much better fit) and keep my 255s.  It makes sense as that would do
>nothing but strengthen the control arms.  Those ones you can buy (not for
my
>car), look similar.
>
>I am concerned about the drivability of the car if I do this.  What would
it
>do for handling/cornering/ride.  I can't really see it do anything
negative.
>Also, on that note, is the part where the control arms mount to the frame
>strong enough.  In this case more stress would be on that part and it could
>brake.
>
>Thanks.  Igor.
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 19:06:02 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Primer Q's

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    From: Mike Bloomer <mbloomer@minspring.com>
    To: Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
   =20
   =20
    The question is, what is the big difference between the =
"professional"
    auto body primer and a high quality spray can version?  What
    problems could you run into using the spray can variety?  Is it=20
    really such a terrible sin as I think I'm about to hear it is?
   =20
   =20
    I've used spraycan primers, and even topcoat, with excellent results =
in the past. Spray can stuff can be good quality or not, like anything =
else. I would say it's a matter of using a brand name (except Rustoleum, =
which I hate), and verifying compatibility with the finish (can't use =
enamel primer under laquer).
   =20
    drc


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<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>From: </B>Mike Bloomer &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:mbloomer@minspring.com">mbloomer@minspring.com</A>&gt;<BR>=
<B>To:=20
    </B>Olds List &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>&g=
t;<BR></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV>The question is, what is the big difference between the=20
    &quot;professional&quot;</DIV>
    <DIV>auto body primer and a high quality spray can version?&nbsp; =
What</DIV>
    <DIV>problems could you run into using the spray can variety?&nbsp; =
Is it=20
    </DIV>
    <DIV>really such a terrible sin as I think I'm about to hear it =
is?</DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>I've used spraycan primers, and even topcoat, =
with=20
    excellent results in the past. Spray can stuff can be good quality =
or not,=20
    like anything else. I would say it's a matter of using a brand name =
(except=20
    Rustoleum, which I hate), and verifying compatibility with the =
finish (can't=20
    use enamel primer under laquer).</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>drc</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 19:24:58 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: th200c to th200-4r swap ?s

- -----Original Message-----
From: andrewc@novell.uidaho.edu <andrewc@novell.uidaho.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, January 28, 1999 4:42 PM
Subject: th200c to th200-4r swap ?s


Hello list,

I am getting ready to do a th200c to th200-4r conversion to my '84
delta 88.
- ---------------------
Lemme know what the rebuild cost ya, I need mu 2004R done too...
- ---------------------

I have some shop manuals for early '80s olds and there is mention
of a different PROM in the computer for different transmission/rear
end gear combinations (no details, however). Is this true? If so, am
I going to have weird problems after the swap?
- ---------------------

I don't think so. The ECM gets engine speed from the VSS in the speedo. As
long as you gear the speedo drive correctly, TCC should still work OK.
- -------------------
Is my computer 'ready' for the th200-4r? Does the computer 'care'
what tranny is in the car?
- --------------------

BTW - the th200-4r is listed as
an option for this car.
______________

Yuh, but 4.10 gears weren't. With a stock 307 you're gonna run outa engine
before you run outa road.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 19:42:01 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: 70 Cutlass of E-bay

My mother, of all people, pointed this out to me, joking that it looked
to be in very similar condition to The Unit. Maybe, but my price was
right!!!!! It's in Indiana, just thought someone might be interested.

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=59793589

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***********************
'70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
'73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
'75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 19:03:19 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@minspring.com>
Subject: Re: A-arms, Poly bushings and shocks

> a
>'bushing driver' - this depends on the size of bushings you have, basically
>I used a small section of pipe that fit onto the metal sleeve of the new
>bushings, then used a 2x4 block of wood to distribute the load on the
>'bushing driver' when I hit it with the hammer.  It was recommended I use
>some metal bar stock instead of a 2x4 since it's more durable as I went
>through a few pieces of scrap 2x4.  This method worked perfect for me after
>learning a 'technique' after installing the first bushing.  Note: this was
>my first front end rebuild too.


If you have a big enough socket set you can also use a socket and extension
which gives you something to hold on too.  Don't have a vise?  Jack up the
back end and let the tire down on the arm to hold it still.  Just a few
thoughts
from the shadetree.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 20:09:58 EST
From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@juno.com>
Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming

 "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com> writes:

>
>How would this differ from what I described?  Turning the motor over 
>with
>everything installed would do the same would it not?  I'm talking 
>about
>turning over the motor via Starter,

Well, turning the motor over with the starter (as you described) will
make the oil pump turn, and distribute oil to the engine.  However, while
the engine is cranking around there, waiting for the oil pump to pick up
oil and pump it around, all those vital metal parts are scraping across
one another without much lubrication (like just the assembly lube, etc). 
A better way to prime a new engine is to pull the distributor out, put a
socket (3/8", I think) and a 6" extension into a drill, stick it in the
distributor hole and onto the end of the oil pump drive shaft, and turn
the oil pump with the drill   This will distributor the oil around the
engine, without having to move all those unlubricated parts across/around
each other.  Understand?

Dave Paulison       1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida   1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

___________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 20:13:17 EST
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Re: Woodgrain

I bought all of my '70 burlwood from H & H out of Ohio. The stuff comes with
the metal backing. It fits perfectly. There number is 614-443-5809. The whole
console kit runs $35.
Good Luck,
Jim McKeague
http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html
'70 Rallye 350
'70 Cutlass S W-31

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 18:34:41 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Welding L. Control Arms for Traction

>Find a rear sway bar from a
>junkyard '73-'77 A-body or a '78-'91 rwd B or C body; make sure to get the
>mounting bracket, which bolts inside the channel of the rear lower control
>arm. May as well get the mounting bolts with it.


The car is F41 equiped.  It has the rear sway bar.  What  I wanted to do is
weld the rest of the control arms and leave the place where the sway-barm
mount is.  If I won't get much more then I have with the sway bar, it may
not be worth it.

>I did this to my '78 Electra (used a bar from a '76 Monte Carlo I
>scrapped), and it improved the handling. As far as traction, though, I
>think that's a lost cause, though air bags in the rear springs might help.


I was thinking about that.  I have new air-shocks and will get a onboard
compressor and hook-up each shock individually.  That may help after I play
with the pressure.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 20:42:18 EST
From: Dan442Olds@aol.com
Subject: Re: Woodgrain

In a message dated 1/28/99 3:17:23 PM Central Standard Time, MB35068@aol.com
writes:

<< 
 try year one they have all the wood grain for 1970 models	
                                                                      mb35068
>>
I called Year One and they say these items are discontinued.  Will try H & H
in Ohio.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 19:43:44 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@minspring.com>
Subject: Re: Welding L. Control Arms for Traction

>If so, you just slide the stabilizer bar into place,
>install the four bolts, cinch them down, and *voila*, you've boxed your
>lower control arms. In fact, welding a plate of steel would preclude you
>from easily using a factory-style rear sway bar.
>
Actually all you have to do is tack weld the bracket in place and then
box the arms and it won't be a problem.  

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 18:51:00 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: th200c to th200-4r swap ?s

- -----------------------------------------------------------------

I am getting ready to do a th200c to th200-4r conversion to my '84
delta 88. I have found what appears to be a good shop that is
willing to work with me. They have a core th200-4r out of an '84
delta wagon for $50. Here's the plan: Rebuild the th200-4r to Olds
442/Buick GNX (+/-) specs with shift kit. I will also be changing the
rear end to 4.10s. From what I have read on the olds faq, there are
differing quality trannys for different applications - ie - the 442/GNX
trannys were built with more heavy duty parts, etc. Should I hold
out for a better core?


- --------------------------------------------------------------------

You will LOVE the 4.10s, even with the 307.  OD is very nice thing to have,
but not necessary at all unless you are running low (numerically high
gears).  It will be awesome, especially once you drop the 403 or 350.

- --------------------------------------------------------------------

The shifter: I will be missing one gear on the 'PRNDL'. Specifically,
there will be not enough detents on the column shift. Will I still be
able to select *all* gears? Will O.D. be 'D', and L1 be L2? Is this
going to be a 'hack'?


- --------------------------------------------------------------------

From what I have seen when I dropped the trans is that the linkage and
consequently the little indicator is free-running.  Apparently what gets the
needle to stay and point is the trans itself.  I think what will end up
happening is that your P will still stay P, but everything else will be
compressed and therefore the needle will be between letters as in gets
stopped by the trans.  Keep in mind that manually shifting the th200-4R
really SUCKS with column.  The gears are so together and there is not
"stops" you can feel so you can easily overshift.  I hate it on my Regency
Vs. the Deltas 3-speed.


- --------------------------------------------------------------------

I have also thought of buying a donor car (ala Igor T. - Nice car
Igor!) and rebuilding the engine/trans and swapping it in. I found a
'77 delta with 403 and unknown transmission. Apparently running.
The only problem there, is that I *really* want the O.D. tranny.


- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -
Thanks. The 403 should come with the Th350.  This trans would be good if you
have 3.23 gears or higher (lower numerically), but since you like cruise
RPM, anything like 3.73s or 4.10s would make it rev like a bitch.  You CAN
still get this car (what is the price) and get the OD trans.  Rebuilding an
engine is NOT very costly (would likely be cheaper then the trans for a
good, mild motor) and would be a hell of an improvement over the '84 307.
It is also easy and installing the trans would be easier with the motor
attached to it.  That way you can install both the motor and trans at the
same time.  403, OD and 4.10s would be great.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 20:55:44 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Thanks!

Thank you to everyone who helped me along with the Rallye Gauge
conversion.  It was a success!  I'm not sure if all the gauges work
correctly, but they seem to be OK.  I like them so far but they will
take a little getting used to.  I can't thank all of you enough.
Brian.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 21:44:06 EST
From: R442@aol.com
Subject: Q-jet solved

Thanks a million guys. The information you gave me was dead on. I did the the
straw test with a long screw, head down, and found the power valve stuck in
the up position. I took the top off the carb. and found that the metering rod
was misaligned and had become bent.The valve was held open at all times.I
replaced the metering rods with some I had laying around.My 442 fired right up
and was running great again. I am planning on going with a larger cam in the
near future,so I`m sure i will need to do some more adjustments.
Thanks again 

Rob
66 442 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 21:59:38 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile (70-72 W-Machine Cutlass Convert) In Moive

In a message dated 1/28/99 4:27:02 PM Central Standard Time, Gutlass66@aol.com
writes:

<< Movie "Joyride" the star is this cutlass, its a ....great car, trashy
movie,
 just rent it to see the car, its worth it >>


 I watched it today on my "C-band" dish...it was a cool looking car...the
brunette was better though, probably a little older too...like I like them
(olds and women)...

Collyn Eastham
65 Cutlass
65 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 22:16:01 -0500
From: "C Thomas" <cthomas@stny.lrun.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile (70-72 W-Machine Cutlass Convert) In Moive

Does anyone out there Need parts for a 64 Jetstar 88 Im buying one for
$400.00 this spring alls I want is the 330 Under the Hood.
Chad Thomas
1985 Culass Iroc-ss
www.442.com/cthomas.html

------------------------------

Date: 28 Jan 99 18:59:34 PST
From: Jon Hart <hartjon@netscape.net>
Subject: 2004r 200 swap

The 200-4r can be a very durable transmission. Have you checked rebuilders
with warranties? From experience working in a dealership replacing the unit
with a reman unit ie: Jasper has warranty.

I will let you know next week on 3.73's behind a 307. I have my Richmond gears
and will be instaling them next week. My 83 98 luggs and spark knocks with the
factory 2.73s. I know it will rev more but it should correct this problem.

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 28 Jan 1999 22:33:50 EST
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: Classic Car Insurance

My company (American Collectors) charges almost twice as much for a car that
is less than 25 years old.

Scott 
71 442 Conv
OCA#30994

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1740
*********************************

