Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1708


oldsmobile-digest      Thursday, January 7 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1708



Re: Exhaust questions
Re: Mondello flexplate = altered inertia properties?
Re: 69 hood differences
Re: exploding batteries
'72 Heater/ AC controls and blower switch needed
Re: 66-442 -400ci
Re: general babble, SMW 403, retards
Re:my previous message
Hello oldsmobile fan (fwd)
Re: 1953 vette, $140,000?????????????
Tissue Dispenser/Trash Container
Re: 69 parts for sale
Re: Oil Pressure (Was=RE:Motor Break In)
Specs on 70 SX and Supreme
Re: 69 parts for sale
'70 Ram Air Hood for sale
Re: READ ME: Help the Olds Cause! send to: dmracing1@aol.com
Re: UNBOUNCE: 400 Engine Rebuild Question
Re: clock questions
Re: Cleaning Tanks
Re: Motor Break In)
Re: Motor Break In
Re: Windshield and Backglass leaking
Re: Cleaning Tanks
Re: Cryogenics
Re: message TO dick miller
Re: dick miller responds!
Re: Exhaust questions
Re: Dual exhaust (cats) - the real deal [long]
Re: NASCAR   [was: Re: READ ME: H**p the Olds Cause! ]
Re: suspension upgrade/rebuild advice needed
back pressure cure
Re: suspension upgrade/rebuild advice needed
Re: Alternator / Steering / Ignition
list info
points conversion
Whats The Difference?
Olds on Jeopardy
RE: Whats The Difference?
Re: Alternator / Steering / Ignition
Re: Olds on Jeopardy
Re: Olds on Jeopardy
Re: points conversion
Re: Cold idle problems
Gas Tanks F/S
Re: dick miller responds!
Re: list info
Re: [Re: points conversion]
Japan's Revenge
upholstery
Dick Miller Racing Replies
F# confusion
Re: part throttle ping problem
Fwd: FAQ Page
RE: Whats The Difference?
Re: Olds on Jeopardy
Re: Olds on Jeopardy
Re: UNBOUNCE: 400 Engine Rebuild Question
Re: points conversion
Re: list info
Re: clock questions
Re: 64 body mounts

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 15:22:33 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Exhaust questions

...go with 2 1/2" head pipes on my '72 Cutlass, Dynomax mufflers, and 2
1/4"
tailpipes. But, Walker does not make these (at least that my local parts
store
could find).

Does anyone know where I can get these pre-bent, or am I going to have to
go
to the muffler shop and have them fabricated?
________

The headpipes are available aftermarket from TA Engineering (?) and Turbo
Torque (?).  Check ads in the back of Hot Rod and Car Craft.  While these
two vendors mainly advertise 3" pipes, they also sell 2 1/2".  I don't
know, however, if these will mate to stock manifolds or if they are
designed for headers only.  For tailpipes, use the Walker pipes for a 1970
GTO Judge, which _are_ 2 1/4".  Note that the Judge pipes have downturned
ends, so if you have a straight bumper on your Cutlass they'll be perfect.
If you have a cutout bumper, you'll need to cut off the turned down end and
weld on a short straight section of pipe to adapt the chrome trumpet.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 15:33:27 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Mondello flexplate = altered inertia properties?

<<  What is the advantage of this?  Does this flexplate offer only
additional
strength, or will the added rotating weight alter the performance
characteristics?   >>
_______

Usually these items are used in drag racing to prevent engine RPMs from
being dragged down too far when the car is launched off the line and at
shift points.  The primary advantage is when using a smaller, low-torque
engine in a heavy car.  Unfortunately, selecting the inertia increase is a
tradeoff, as you can imagine that while the additional inertia of the
flexplate prevents engine RPM from dropping at launch, it also makes it
more difficult to accelerate once the car is moving.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 15:34:42 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 69 hood differences

Joe, how did I know you would know and answer this one?  ROTFLMAO.......
_________

Heck, Don, by now, YOU should have been the one to answer that question!
;-)

Joe (will I ever find a hood) Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 14:55:26 -0600 (CST)
From: Donald B Cart <dcart@micro.ti.com>
Subject: Re: exploding batteries

Ben,

 I went to Hi-Lo, any auto parts store will do though, and got
an AC Delco rebuilt by AC Delco unit. Costs about $65 compared
to the rebuilt by Fred in the shed one the ran about $40. The
extra bucks is worth it to me since the other had a much higer
rate for returns, or so I was told. I think the part # was
31-196 or something like that. Just have them search for a
replacement for a late 70's/80's Olds which are internally regulated.

Don
72 Cutlass Conv
90 Calais I-Series

> 
> Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 12:10:56 -0700
> From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
> Subject: Re: exploding batteries
> 
> do you have a manufacturer, part number, some info for us to find out
> which alternator (interanally reg) to use. My brother-in-law works at
> Napa (what a wonderful blessing!) and he couldn't find anything in his
> books about a rebuild kit or even a brand new one that was directly
> related to the one I have that is externally regulated. Who to talk to?
> Where to find the alte? What man? What p/n? Help us all out Donald
> 
> Thank, Ben
> 
> Donald B Cart wrote:
> 
> > Daniel,
> >
> >  Have you considered updated your charging system to an
> > internally regulated generator ? I just did this on the
> > 72 Cutlass and it is fairly simple. The directions are
> > on the FAQ page at 442.com or drop me a private email.
> >
> > Don
> > 72 Cutlass Conv
> > 90 Calais I-Series
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 16:10:32 -0500
From: Brian Richardson <brian.richardson@mci.com>
Subject: '72 Heater/ AC controls and blower switch needed

I have a '72 Cutlass S that is in need of the Heater/ AC control and the
blower switch. 

My dash only has one switch to the right on the heater/AC control. 

I need the wiring sockets with lead wiring as well if possible (especially
for the blower switch). 

Please E-mail me personally with reply


Thanks in advance,
Brian Richardson
WindowsNT Architecture
VNET: 949-5072
DID: 770-284-5072
Pager: 800-PAGEMCI pin# 166-1665

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 16:37:30 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 66-442 -400ci

>He only gets oil to 9 of 16 rockers (through the push rods). On a chev
>small/big block, he usually gets oils to all 16. There is a pencil-lead

He has to rotate the crank, so the oil feed holes in the lifters are
exposed to the passage from the oil journal in the block. Rotating the
crank in 90' increments while priming an engine is a general rule of thumb
for the Olds; don't know if Chevies get along without it.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 16:28:38 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: general babble, SMW 403, retards

>===================================================
>REWARD OFFERED, WANTED:
>*Proof* that an Oldsmobile "Solid Main Web" 403 motor exists. That is, the
>gussets that support the main bearings in the block must have NO HOLES in 
them.
>Like other Olds V8's built after 1976, every 403 we have seen has large [~1.5
>inch] "windows" in these webs, reducing the main bearing support to what is
>essentially three individual struts rather than a full solid web.
>.
>We already have plenty of RUMOR. We know about the rare "Pontiac wagon"
>motors and etc. that a certain large Olds expert has put forth in the
>"technical manual" as being this elusive SMW 403. We are astonished that this
>"technical manual" failed to show a photo of this ultra-rare and elusive part,
>so that the masses could see what to look for. We know of the rumor that none
>of the "4B" blocks are SMW, and indeed only a rare few of the rare "4A" blocks
>are said to be SMW. We have plenty of stories along the lines of "...my
>friend's uncle has one, for sure..." only to have the story change later to
>"...turns out it has openings in the webs after all..." [Feel free to send
>along more versions of this "friend has one" sort of story; we collect them.]
>.
>What we mean by *proof* that the SMW 403 exists is: photos or video showing 
all
>main webs of the block, with no openings. A magnetic pickup tool would make a
>nice touch to show that the material there is cast iron. There must be
>unedited, unbroken video footage or enough overlap in the photos and some
>unique markings on the block, so that it can be verified that the block ID
>shown is actually part of the same block that has the Solid Main Webs. A dial
>caliper or similar device should be shown in the cylinder, indicating a bore 
of
>over 4.3 inches. Block should be as clean as possible, not necessarily free of
>all traces of paint, but clean enough that authenticity of the critical 
aspects
>of block ID and such can be verified.
>.
>Reward offered is $50 worth of Rocket Science items. And, of course, you would
>have the fame of being the first to not just see or find one, but DOCUMENT it!
>Send inquiries, clarification requests, flames, or proof claims to:
>--
>Chris Witt  *the* Rocket Scientist
>1303 W. Miller Rd.
>Lansing, MI  48911
>--
>wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
>517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm exc. Tue/Wed eves
>Email text only please, No MIME, attachments, pictures.
>==========================================================
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 16:45:49 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re:my previous message

The message I sent was a snip of a private e-mail from Chris Witt (received 
today). He asked me to forward it to the list. sorry for the subject header, 
which was reflective of the rest of the message.

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 18:28:34 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Hello oldsmobile fan (fwd)

Received this personally... he's in Sweden and needs '58 parts. Hope
someone can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada


- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 12:55:55 +0100
From: KLBR <klas.brink@vasteras.office.se>
To: ab348@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Hello oldsmobile fan

My name is Klas Brink and iam a swedish citizen. I have got a new
project a super 88 cab-58. The car is very rusty and vith very bad zink
deytails. Therefore i am looking for a 88 or 98 coupe so i could get
hold of the best parts. I am also looking for a 98 cab-58 to renovate.

I dont now if you can help me but i hope so.

If anyone would like to reach me so is my phone number sweden 021-20448,
fax 021-172251 (021 is my areacode) my e mail
klas.brink@vasteras.office.se

Have a nice day

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 23:18:01 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: 1953 vette, $140,000?????????????

happens all the time guys there was a fake chevelle ss 454 LS6 that sold at
dreamcars for 150,000 and L88 corvettes far more than were made sell for
upwards of that all the time so no laughing matter KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: CUTLASS442@aol.com <CUTLASS442@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, January 06, 1999 6:38 PM
Subject: Re: 1953 vette, $140,000?????????????


>In a message dated 1/6/99 2:57:05 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>ainode@frontiernet.net writes:
>
><< 54032316 >>
>$140,000 for a 'vette?!?!?!?!?!?!?
>hahahahahahahahahahahahahaha
>thanks for the daily bit of humor. that is funny
>
>richard
>cutlass442@aol.com
>1967 "oldsmobuick" Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 18:36:51 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Tissue Dispenser/Trash Container

I was in a bidding war on eBay for an NOS Olds tissue dispenser and trash
container for my Cutlass. It appears correct for the late 60s/early 70s
and looks quite nice in the pic. Pebbled plastic, neat Olds logo, almost
like a little consolette. Someone has outbid me at $47.00 (it's getting
quite spendy) and I dunno whether to go higher. Does anyone know how these
mount?  It's hard to tell from the pic whether it would go on the tranny
hump or under the dash. If it goes under the dash I'm out of luck because
my 8-track is there. If it goes on the hump I would be OK since I don't
have a console. If you have one -- would you pay $50 for it? That would be
close to $90 in our worthless dollars...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 17:56:02 EST
From: Sprotten25@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69 parts for sale

sorry ya'll didn't realize i sent this to the whole list

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 17:54:43 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure (Was=RE:Motor Break In)

Del,

I'd say those numbers sound pretty good, what you don't want to hear is the
type of numbers I get out of the Starfire's 231 B-word engine:

Warm engine, around 3,000 RPM, somewhere between 20 and 30 PSI.

This scares the bejeezzus (?) out of me, I'm used to the old "10 PSI for every
1,000 RPM of engine speed" rule, and with just over 20,000 miles I'd like to
think I could do better.  I will -- when I get the Olds engine in there!

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 17:57:49 EST
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Specs on 70 SX and Supreme

I am in need of the following info for a 1970 Cutlass SX and Cutlass Supreme
with a 455. Could somebody h*lp me out here?
This is what I am looking for:
					
WEIGHT:						
OVERALL LENGTH:			
TOP SPEED: 					
AVG. 1/4 MILE TIME:			
REAR AXLE GEAR:			

Thanks,
Jim McKeague
1970 Rallye 350
1970 Cutlass S W-31	

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 18:03:35 EST
From: Sprotten25@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69 parts for sale

i think it is a s hood tell me how to tell the dif. and i'll let you know
about the bumper
did i send you the pics?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 16:23:50 -0700
From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@hotmail.com>
Subject: '70 Ram Air Hood for sale

I found this in today's Idaho Statesman (Boise, ID):

OLDS 1970 442 Ram-Air hood, $595 OBO. '70 doors, $15.  Call Steve, (208)
345-2346.

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----
 Robert J. Lavey			mailto://rjlavey@hotmail.com
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.			Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302			Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 18:30:49 EST
From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Subject: Re: READ ME: Help the Olds Cause! send to: dmracing1@aol.com

 Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com> writes:

>...We shouldn't jump the gun and load his
>mailbox... We could really make a$$es of ourselves...
>Greg Pruett


True!  I agree.  Let's be careful!


Dave Paulison       1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida   1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 18:30:49 EST
From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: 400 Engine Rebuild Question

 Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca> writes:
>Not on the list; respond to sbullet@aracnet.com if you can assist.

>I am posting this question for friend who is stumped after completely
>rebuilding a 400ci engine from a 66-442. 
>He only gets oil to 9 of 16 rockers (through the push rods).

Would anybody who replies to this fellow please forward a copy of the
email to me at dpauliso@juno.com?  I would appreciate it; I am interested
to see what theories are posed for this problem.  

Thanks!

Dave Paulison       1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida   1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 18:30:49 EST
From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Subject: Re: clock questions

Try fogging the mechanism with WD-40 or similar type stuff.  Sometimes
that will make the clock start working again.  Don't really know what
makes 'em stop (dust, dirt, gunk, age?), but sometimes the WD-40 thing
works. 

Dave Paulison       1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida   1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com


On Thu, 7 Jan 1999 00:14:07 EST Bbymks4@aol.com writes:
>
>                older clocks in older cars usually didn't last very 
>long, 

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 18:30:48 EST
From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Subject: Re: Cleaning Tanks

How about a way to clean the inside of these tanks.  I have one in my '69
Cutlass off of a '71 Buick, and the inside is very dirty.  I have tried
in vain to clean it, but the crap is stuck like glue.  It looks like the
water/coolant that was in it was rusty.  Maybe it's stained?  Any ideas
on cleaning it would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Dave Paulison       1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida   1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

"G.J.C cc-iroc-ss" <gjcouse@francomm.com> writes:
>Question,
>
>What's the best ways/products to clean the puke tank, and wiper/washer
>tanks. Anyone try using chlorine bleach diluted? Would like to find a
>process to remove stains and bring back to the original white plastic
>surface. No, haven't tried anything yet. Just wondering if anyone has
>tackled this matter and to what success.
>
>-----Regards,
>
>Gary J. Couse
>Couse Customs
>
>ICQ# 5209322
>mailto:gjcouse@CC-IROC-SS.com
>
>Custom Conversion Prototype:
>CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
>http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
>
>

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 18:30:49 EST
From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Subject: Re: Motor Break In)

 Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com> writes:

>Just a quick question here, what kind of oil pressure to others have...I
have oil pressures
>that follow. Cold-Anywhere from about 60 to 75 PSI (Depends on RPM
>range) Warm Idle-About 40-50 PSI. Warm Driving-About 45-60

My pressures are about the same as yours.  Stock '69 350, new bearings,
seals, & stock oil pump about 2.5 years ago.  Runs great, no oil leaks. 
Too much is better than not enough!

Dave Paulison       1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida   1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 18:30:49 EST
From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Subject: Re: Motor Break In

 Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu> writes:

>Short of blowing off the oil filter, don't know that you can have too 
>much
>pressure. 

I agree.  A lot is not a bad thing.  Too little, however, and you've got
problems.  My Olds maintains about 40 psi at idle, in drive, fully warmed
up.  It has almost 80 psi at idle when it's first started up in the
morning.  

A quick note on safety...when you install an aftermarket oil pressure
guage, ditch the plastic pressure line tubing that comes with it for the
same diameter ~COPPER~ tubing.  It's cheap insurance against filling the
inside of your car with motor oil (don't ask!).


Dave Paulison       1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida   1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 18:34:22 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Windshield and Backglass leaking

- -----Original Message-----
From: Arnold, W D <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>


>My windshield is leaking on the driver's side of the car. The water comes
in
>from the top and drips on my steering wheel.

My 85 Delta also leaks at the top of the windshield. Had a professional
glass guy pull it and reseal (only cost 35 bucks, took 1/2 hr).

Still leaks.

I figger there's rust under there somewhere. I'm hoping I can fix it from
~inside~ the car when I replace the headliner.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 16:35:34 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Tanks

Would CLR (Calcium, Lime, and Rust remover sold everywhere) damage the
plastic?  That's what I would try first.

Dave Paulison wrote:
> 
> How about a way to clean the inside of these tanks.  I have one in my '69
> Cutlass off of a '71 Buick, and the inside is very dirty.  I have tried
> in vain to clean it, but the crap is stuck like glue.  It looks like the
> water/coolant that was in it was rusty.  Maybe it's stained?  Any ideas
> on cleaning it would be appreciated.
> 
> Thanks,

- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 16:42:10 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Cryogenics

There are two "high tech" ways to stress relive parts.  First, cryro. second
some kind of high frequency vibration.  I read about the high freq. in an
old hot rod or car craft.  the cyro is used in precision machine work as
well as cranks and such.  I'll do some research and try to get the articles
for the list.

Larry Pegg
- -----Original Message-----
From: DYeager535@aol.com <DYeager535@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, January 07, 1999 12:03 AM
Subject: Re: Cryogenics


>In a message dated 1/6/99 9:47:45 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>nurelic@primenet.com writes:
>
><< They have, it works, it's pricey >>
>
>     Who has, wheres the story, and why hasn't the list said anything about
>it? (all of course if it HASN'T been covered before here..I do remember
>hearing something about someone wanting opinions on it..hope it was this
>list!)  Dorian
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 23:33:52 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: message TO dick miller

OK guys why does one short response rate this flood of flames?
BEGIN SOAPBOX MODE.....
Everyone doesnt know all things about all parts on the market.
they cant there is too much out there for anyone to know the best place to
get advise about cams and valvetrains is hte manufacturer
the short message is suspect but not an unreasonable response to the
question I was once asked what compression ratio piston rings
I was selling to a young man when I was in the automotive game heavily
stymied by such a question from someone purchasing rebuild/overhaul parts I
guess I stared at the kid and he left the store thinking I was some kind of
Di*k so Ive been asked many of the same things and cant answer the questions
pertaining to parts
I have never dealt with have used several different manufacturers cams and
components and still couldnt answer the questions some folks ask they need
to be addressed by the folks who designed them not the poor guy who has to
ask the same question of the same manufacturer I am not saying that mr.
Miller was right or wrong but you can imagine he is extremely busy and cant
take the time to research a question that would be better answered by the
guy who built the stuff.....end of soapbox mode....KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: DYeager535@aol.com <DYeager535@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, January 06, 1999 10:46 PM
Subject: message TO dick miller


>heres what I sent to DM racing..maybe someone can use it worded slightly
>differently to fire off another letter to them (the address is
>DMRacing1@aol.com):
>
>       I belong to an Internet list of Oldsmobile enthusiasts. After
reading
>of the response one list member received from Dick Miller racing, I decided
I
>HAD to write. On the very first web page for your company, where it says
>"about Dick Miller racing", it states, and I quote, "free technical advice
is
>offered daily during regular business hours" Someone who has spent hundreds
of
>dollars with your company does not deserve a response such as "ask the
>manufacturer" like he did. And a company that treats its customers like
this
>will not get my business.  Dorian Yeager

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 23:40:58 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: dick miller responds!

ed ralax there you go flaming the list you are trying to defend
and if i dont want to use the "shift" key i wont i also dont care to use
punctuation this is not being graded you know.....KK
Just Kidding see I can use the "shift" key and punctuation.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 00:25:16 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Exhaust questions

wouldnt it be easier to have the things made at a local shop and most likely
cheaper?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM <Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, January 07, 1999 2:40 PM
Subject: Re: Exhaust questions


>...go with 2 1/2" head pipes on my '72 Cutlass, Dynomax mufflers, and 2
>1/4"
>tailpipes. But, Walker does not make these (at least that my local parts
>store
>could find).
>
>Does anyone know where I can get these pre-bent, or am I going to have to
>go
>to the muffler shop and have them fabricated?
>________
>
>The headpipes are available aftermarket from TA Engineering (?) and Turbo
>Torque (?).  Check ads in the back of Hot Rod and Car Craft.  While these
>two vendors mainly advertise 3" pipes, they also sell 2 1/2".  I don't
>know, however, if these will mate to stock manifolds or if they are
>designed for headers only.  For tailpipes, use the Walker pipes for a 1970
>GTO Judge, which _are_ 2 1/4".  Note that the Judge pipes have downturned
>ends, so if you have a straight bumper on your Cutlass they'll be perfect.
>If you have a cutout bumper, you'll need to cut off the turned down end and
>weld on a short straight section of pipe to adapt the chrome trumpet.
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 00:00:20 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Dual exhaust (cats) - the real deal [long]

yeah Karl really wordy and about as clear as mud but essentially it is up to
a court to interpret this drivel what it basically says is dont remove the
cat/cats dont render the emission controls inoperable
do not modify them so as to accomplish the same objective it does not
specifically state that you cannot use two cats as long as they are
functional...and the vehicle passes EPA mandated smog checks
KK      this is my interpretation of the verbage not a legal consultory.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 16:52:46 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: NASCAR   [was: Re: READ ME: H**p the Olds Cause! ]

I just know one and he is not a people person but I have one of his street
motors and it hauls butt.

- -----Original Message-----
From: Arnold, W D <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
To: 'olds' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, January 07, 1999 8:54 AM
Subject: NASCAR [was: Re: READ ME: H**p the Olds Cause! ]


>
>>Larry Pegg wrote:
>>One of the best eng men I know is a real D#$K but he is a highly paid
>nascar
>>crew chief
>
>Are you talking about Robin Pemberton here? (just kidding)
>I *know* several of them and to speak on their behalf, *most* are some
>really great guys !!  Believe or not, Todd Parrot is THE easiest to get
>along with and talk too. AND he is responsible for a consistent top 5 team.
>Robert Yates knows alot about an Olds(not like DM, JM, or some of us) and
>has  an incredible understanding of heads.  I wonder if he ever raced Olds
>in the past.
>
>My vote for the GM NASCAR stepchild is, of course, Olds but, I'll keep
>pulling for the Pontiac (Pontiac = Passed On Nascar Track In All Corners)
>until the triumphant return of Olds.
>
>
>Donny Arnold
>w.d.arnold@lmco.com
>
>72  Olds 442
>41 Chevy
>63 Chevy Truck
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 16:57:41 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: suspension upgrade/rebuild advice needed

I spent over a thousand on the suspension on my 70 chevelle.  including poly
everything and the biggest sway bars I could get.  I didn't feel it rode to
harsh and my wife loved the way it handled compared with her stock rebuilt
70.

Larry
- -----Original Message-----
From: Darrin Johnson <xdarrinj@ti.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, January 07, 1999 10:24 AM
Subject: suspension upgrade/rebuild advice needed


>I am in the process of rebuilding/upgrading the suspension on my 72 Cutlass
>Convertible.  I am looking for a firm (but not harsh) ride with less body
>roll.  Would a 1 1/4 inch front swaybar with a 1 inch rear bar be overkill?
>I will probably have the stock spec springs and KYB Gas Shocks.
>
>I am also undecided about polygraphite vs rubber bushings.  I am leaning
>towards using the stock rubber bushings because of the recommendation in
>Supercars Unlimited catalog.  Any comments?
>
>Darrin Johnson
>djohnsn@ibm.net
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: 7 Jan 99 17:00:49 MST
From: RSTOMN <restoman@netscape.net>
Subject: back pressure cure

Here's what I did on my 70 442 instead of headers

I Y'd in a 2" pipe right after the exhaust manifolds
and ran straight pipe paralleling the stock exhaust
w-a vacume operated valve on each pipe.Flip a switch
and get open headers (well sort of)flip it back nice
and quiet.BIG difference on the highway!
Works so good I did the same thing on my h**da
right after the cat (smog legal)and added 20mh
to the top end.Also works fantastic w-nitrous.
wadouthink?


RESTOMAN

____________________________________________________________________
More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://home.netscape.com/netcenter/mail

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 17:02:46 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: suspension upgrade/rebuild advice needed

I have heard of the poly squeak but I never had any trouble with squeaking.

Larry

- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, January 07, 1999 11:13 AM
Subject: Re: suspension upgrade/rebuild advice needed


>Here's what's in my '71 cutlass convertible:  H-O racing's 1 3/8" front and
>rear sway bars and stiff big block springs (they are now out of business).
>I had their boxed lower control arms, but the bushings ripped out of the
>ends of them (I have a stiff shift-kit).  I replaced them with a full
>Hotchkis setup with braces ($525 plus $200+ labor).  The front end is a
full
>PST poly bushing setup.  Just put KYB shocks on the front and they are a
>HUGE improvement over the $15 red rider gas shocks.  I still have Monroe
>load-leveler shocks in the rear, soon to be replaced by KYB.
>
>I don't think you can really go too big on sway bars.  I have zero body
>roll, but the 245/60R14 tires don't like corners very well.  If I push it
>too hard, I start driving on the sidewalls.
>
>All poly bushings squeek.  They don't make you car into a rattletrap like
>Unlimited says though.  They only squeek on big potholes or going over
>speedbumps.  Normal driving they don't make any noise.  The rear Hotchkis
>arms have grooved bushings with grease fittings to make them quiet, but
they
>squeek too.
>
>If you plan to keep 14" wheels, and not drive like a sports car, go with
>rubber.  I plan on running with corvettes soon, so I need all the help I
can
>get.  16x8 wheels and 255 tires are next...
>
>good luck,
>greg z
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Darrin Johnson <xdarrinj@ti.com>
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Date: Thursday, January 07, 1999 11:23 AM
>Subject: suspension upgrade/rebuild advice needed
>
>
>>I am in the process of rebuilding/upgrading the suspension on my 72
Cutlass
>>Convertible.  I am looking for a firm (but not harsh) ride with less body
>>roll.  Would a 1 1/4 inch front swaybar with a 1 inch rear bar be
overkill?
>>I will probably have the stock spec springs and KYB Gas Shocks.
>>
>>I am also undecided about polygraphite vs rubber bushings.  I am leaning
>>towards using the stock rubber bushings because of the recommendation in
>>Supercars Unlimited catalog.  Any comments?
>>
>>Darrin Johnson
>>djohnsn@ibm.net
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 19:07:35 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator / Steering / Ignition

- -----Original Message-----
From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@juno.com>


<snip stuff I'm ignorant about>

>Third:
>
>I am tired of replacing points.  The resistor wire in my car has, at some
>time in the past, been replaced by a regular wire, so the car burns up
>points like crazy.  I also want a more accurate (and reliable?) ignition.

Years ago the first aftermarket electronic ignitions were simply devices
that took the load off the points, and used a transistor as the coil
"switch". This increased point life dramatically and allowed hotter coils to
be used (which draw more current and would burn up points even faster).
Points still wore at the rubbing block and needed to be re-gapped
occaisionally, but the contacts lasted forever. Not as maintenance free as
magnetic pickup distributors, but definitely an improvement. Mechanical and
vacuum advance mechanisms were unaffected.

A side benifit is that the points gap could be reduced significantly, which
increases the dwell time (time the coil is energized), improving high rpm
spark. Sometimes they called these electro-gizzmos "Dwell Extenders".

I dunno if this type ignition is still available or not.....I'd check JC
Whitney.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 17:11:35 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: list info

I know of a company that might want to start a list for boats.  I don't know
where to send him    HELP.

nurelic@primenet.com

Larry Pegg

------------------------------

Date: 7 Jan 99 17:32:55 MST
From: RSTOMN <restoman@netscape.net>
Subject: points conversion

There's a guy on 442.com "parts for sale"selling a
"Igniter" electonic points conversion kit with a blaster
coil (black) and spiral wires for $119.95 delivered!!

Pertronix 
ignitor its called.all fits inside the stock cap.
Best price I have ever seen.Just ordered a kit for my
spare 455.
His e-mail is carldudash@hotmail.com

RESTOMAN

____________________________________________________________________
More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://home.netscape.com/netcenter/mail

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 19:31:29 -0500
From: Cliff McFarlane <mcfrlan@bconnex.net>
Subject: Whats The Difference?

Hello, just a quick question here, I was wondering in the 80's G-body
style Cutlass,  what is the difference between a Cutlass Supreme, and a
Cutlass Supreme Brougham?

Brad McFarlane (looking for my first car!)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 19:39:40 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: Olds on Jeopardy

The answer was: (something like this)

From 1978 to 1985, Olds made this type of engine that created much havock
among the emissions' activists.

For $800

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 Calais
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 19:49:02 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Whats The Difference?

Well the brougham had fluffier seats for ont thing.  Maybe they all had
power seats as well.  Basically, the Brougham was the ultra-luxo model.  My
first Olds was an 86 Brougham and it was gorgeous to drive.  (One step below
my 80 Caprice Classic Brougham).  Gimme some marshmallows, biotch!

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 Calais
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

- -----Original Message-----


Hello, just a quick question here, I was wondering in the 80's G-body
style Cutlass,  what is the difference between a Cutlass Supreme, and a
Cutlass Supreme Brougham?

Brad McFarlane (looking for my first car!)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 19:36:42 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Alternator / Steering / Ignition

> Years ago the first aftermarket electronic ignitions were simply devices
> that took the load off the points, and used a transistor as the coil
> "switch". This increased point life dramatically and allowed hotter coils to
> be used (which draw more current and would burn up points even faster).
> Points still wore at the rubbing block and needed to be re-gapped
> occaisionally, but the contacts lasted forever. Not as maintenance free as
> magnetic pickup distributors, but definitely an improvement. Mechanical and
> vacuum advance mechanisms were unaffected.
>
> I dunno if this type ignition is still available or not.....I'd check JC
> Whitney.

I've seen them for sale elsewhere on the web.  For the life of me I can't
remember the website and I didn't bookmark it. If I remember right it was some
company in England.  I typed "fuel economy" in a search engine and this site 
was
one of myriads that came up.  Of course, many of the other sites were sellin'
snake oil and relied on automotive urban legend and myth to defend rather
outlandish economy improving devices, but I found this to be rather 
interesting.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 18:56:39 -0600 
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
Subject: Re: Olds on Jeopardy

Ray wrote;
	
	The answer was: (something like this)

	From 1978 to 1985, Olds made this type of engine that created
much havock
	among the emissions' activists.

	For $800


	What is a diesel, Alex?

	Send the check for $800 to...ah, never mind...  <G>

Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
Columbus, MS         1987 442

http://www.442.com/newman.html               1987 442
http://www.442.com/newmantape.html        Centennial Tape Info.  
	 
	

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 19:59:02 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Olds on Jeopardy

The Olds 350 diesel engine.

Jim Chermack

At 07:39 PM 1/7/99 , you wrote:
>The answer was: (something like this)
>
>>From 1978 to 1985, Olds made this type of engine that created much havock
>among the emissions' activists.
>
>For $800
>
>Ray Costanzo
>87 409 Cutlass
>84 Calais
>costanzo@netcarrier.com
>http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 19:50:13 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: points conversion

RSTOMN wrote:

> There's a guy on 442.com "parts for sale"selling a
> "Igniter" electonic points conversion kit with a blaster
> coil (black) and spiral wires for $119.95 delivered!!
>
> Pertronix
> ignitor its called.all fits inside the stock cap.
> Best price I have ever seen.Just ordered a kit for my
> spare 455.
> His e-mail is carldudash@hotmail.com

I read some unsettling things about this device on the classicalpontiac.com 
website (on their BBS) a few months
ago.  Some of the guys there said that after a couple years the magnets start 
to come loose from the magnet ring
and the electronic module seems loose, too.  They theorize that heat and 
vibration are the culprits.  Can't say
from experience or anything, use the info for what it's worth.  BTW, if you 
want to get a heads-up on the
instructions, go to

http://www.corvette.net/vettenet/pertronx.htm

Some corvette dude put all the instructions on the web.  There are a couple 
Olds-specific comments in the
instructions.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 20:10:11 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Cold idle problems

- -----Original Message-----
From: Nari Koka <koka10@yahoo.com>


>I am new to car repairs.  I am working on my 82 Olds Delta 88 to fix
>the cold running problems - more obvious in the winter.  The car over
>all is running great.   It has a V8 5 liter engine, 4 barrel carb.


And a fine vehicle that is.

>It starts in the morning and stops right away.  After giving gas it
>starts and stops again.  After I do this several times and pressing
>gas pedal a lot it finally stays on.  Once the engine is hot, there is
>no problem.


Sounds like the choke is not working correctly.

>After the engine starts, the idling is slow and after some time, it
>increases - I would expect it the other
>way.
>
>Can anyone tell me how the cold idle is supposed to work?

The cold choke pulls the air flap (choke valve) closed and sets the throttle
shaft on a fast idle cam. After starting, the vacuum break sets the initial
choke valve openning. As the engine warms up, the choke valve opens more and
the fast idle cam falls to lower steps so idle speed goes down. Somewhere in
that mechanism - choke, choke valve, vacuum break, - is likely your problem.


>The vacuum wiring was a mess.  When I looked at the diagram under the
>hood, there is a component marked DVDV that should be between the
>vacuum port and the idle load compensator (ILC).  That is missing on
>this car and I could not get the dealer find it for me.  It seems like
>the ILC is always active (retracted).

The ILC is normally pulled in, and pops out after 8 seconds of high vacuum
(throtle closed) on the highway (going down a long hill). The DVDV is a
vacuum delay valve that times this action. Not your problem right now.

> What is the role of vacuum on
>this car?

Same as on any car. LOTS of things depend on vacuum.

>
> What is the vaccum break unit?
>

The two vacuum diaphram do-hickeys on the passenger side of the carb are
"vacuum break" units. The front one controls the 4-barrel's secondary air
valves, the rear one controls the choke plates. The latter is cotrolled by
the computer, through a vacuum solenoid. It should activate right after
starting.

>I could not find a book that explains how the cold start and idle work
>on this car.  There are very few references to this car in the
>manuals.  Are there other cars that are exactly the same and has more
>manuals available?


Factory service manuals should still be available from Helm Publications: :
www.helminc.com/

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 20:16:25 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Gas Tanks F/S

Hey everyone

	I got some very good news for those needing a NEW gas tank. We now have
correct repros that have the filler necks, ring collar and gasket. They are
available for 64-72 Cutlass and 442's. Price is $179.99. Most others come
without the filler neck and are much higher priced. These are able to be
shipped UPS. Also available are the sending units for most years and models. 

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts
Virginia Beach, VA
(757)474-0869	

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 20:33:48 EST
From: Sxolds455@aol.com
Subject: Re: dick miller responds!

I have dealt with Dick Miller myself a few times and went to his place in
Jackson when he lived there, he was always very helpful and polite to me, I
think anyone getting down On Dick Miller really hasnt worked with him on
getting parts or info. 

SXOLDS455 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 21:02:17 +0000
From: krzy4evr@usit.net
Subject: Re: list info

Go to    www.onelist.com   for an excellent soure for lists. You can start any 
type 
of list you want




I know of a company that might want to start a list for boats.  I don't know
where to send him    HELP.

nurelic@primenet.com

Larry Pegg

------------------------------

Date: 7 Jan 99 19:25:28 MST
From: RSTOMN <restoman@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: points conversion]

oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:


RSTOMN wrote:

> There's a guy on 442.com "parts for sale"selling a
> "Igniter" electonic points conversion kit with a blaster
> coil (black) and spiral wires for $119.95 delivered!!
>
> Pertronix
> ignitor its called.all fits inside the stock cap.
> Best price I have ever seen.Just ordered a kit for my
> spare 455.
> His e-mail is carldudash@hotmail.com

I read some unsettling things about this device on the classicalpontiac.com
website (on their BBS) a few months
ago.  Some of the guys there said that after a couple years the magnets start
to come loose from the magnet ring
and the electronic module seems loose, too.  They theorize that heat and
vibration are the culprits.  Can't say
from experience or anything, use the info for what it's worth.  BTW, if you
want to get a heads-up on the
instructions, go to

http://www.corvette.net/vettenet/pertronx.htm

Some corvette dude put all the instructions on the web.  There are a couple
Olds-specific comments in the
instructions.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

>>>>>>>>>>yeah,that will happen if you install on a 
wore out distributer.
I have had one on a $35 rebuilt dist for 3 hard years
w-no problems.Totally smooth idle......................

RESTOMAN

____________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 18:33:32 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@yahoo.com>
Subject: Japan's Revenge

     I was doing a coolant flush on the 71 Supreme the other day and I
noticed I had a PLASTIC drain plug. Right then I knew it had a
non-original replacement radiator. 
     I took out the plug with the idea of installing a metal petcock
in its place. Molded on the plug was: 10MM! It actually ended up being
10 x 1.25, a standard metric bolt size....not a pipe thread (NPT)
style! 
     10MM does look kind of close to 1/8" NPT (the parts store had
petcocks in 1/4" and 1/8" NPT sizes), but I am afraid to tap out the
hole since there may not be enough material to do it. Then I'd really
be in trouble! So, I put the plastic plug back in. Drat! POS
non-American replacement parts :(
     I recently put a MODINE radiator in my 86 Supreme; it has the
correct 1/4" NPT hole and even came with a petcock!
     I guess I'll search for a METRIC petcock for the 71!     

==
"2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our cars, trucks and a whole lot more at
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 21:37:48 -0600
From: "patrick derkacz" <patrickd@wwnet.com>
Subject: upholstery

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_006C_01BE3A85.F849CC80
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Any recommendations for a craftsmen to redo the interior of my 69 442?
Preferably in the metro Detroit area.

patrickd@wwnet.com

- ------=_NextPart_000_006C_01BE3A85.F849CC80
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Any recommendations for a craftsmen =
to redo the=20
interior of my 69 442?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>Preferably in =
the metro=20
Detroit area.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:patrickd@wwnet.com">patrickd@wwnet.com</A></FONT></DIV></B=
ODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_006C_01BE3A85.F849CC80--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 21:42:06 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Dick Miller Racing Replies

     Here are the replies from Dick Miller to me personally, for anyone that
cares. Dorian

#1

The answer given was to "ask the people that the parts were bought from"

That is not a bad answer.

We were the third ones ask for advise.

The letter admitted Dave Smith was ask first and then Joe Mondello.

Every engine needs a plan of attack and different people have different plans.
That doesn't mean anyone is wrong.  Just different.

The letter was sent by someone who obviously is not a customer of ousrs and
did't 
need a third plan of attack.

Sincerely,

Dick

#2

thanks

i hope i haven't lost any potential customers over it

please tell the ones you said something to 


sincerely

dick

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 21:44:10 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: F# confusion

>

Thanks for the reply to my post, Joe P.

My two 67 425 blocks [non toro] are F5 and F6. This confused me, as i thought 
the lower F# indicated an older
block, but maybe that only holds true on the 455 blocks. The F1 455 block i 
have was a high compression, "C" head
motor, so i think it was a 68/69.
 I found the drill spot info at the FAQ pages.

 Still a bit confused.
Dave Brode
64 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 21:44:01 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: Re: part throttle ping problem

Eddie,
 I'm no real expert, but here's my 2 cents;
 I would slow the advance rate to allow full advance no sooner than 2400 or 
so, and see if that stops your part
throttle ping.
 I'd say at the dragstrip, full advance at 1800 would be fine, but on the 
street, it seems to be to quick for
your combo.
 If you don't want to do this, you could  fatten up your part throttle primary 
metering a bit.

Dave Brode
64 Cutlass


Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 12:06:46 EST

> From: EDZX6@aol.com
> Subject: detonation problem
>
> I have a detonation problem on my 72 Cutlass. First let me give you the
> ingredients involved, HEI w/ no vacuum adv canister and centrifugal adv 
locked
> out (by method of welding), MSD 6AL ignition, MSD programmable timing
> computer. As per the FAQ's I've set initial timing at 18 (recommended 15-18)
> total timing at 36 (recommended 32-36) and full advance at 1800 RPM
> (recommended about 1500 RPM for std tranny). To my understanding detonation 
at
> WOT is caused by amount of total timing and detonation at part throtle is
> caused by amount of vacuum advance. My detonation is happenig at part throtle
> (cruise) and goes away as soon as I either let the throtle go or lightly 
press
> on it. I have no detonation at WOT and I'm not using a vaccum advance so how
> can I controll part throtle detonation? Any inputs would be appreciated and
> please feel free to correct me on any incorrect information. One last note of
> information, the HEI dist. was picked up at a local junk yard but was working
> fine previously on the same vehicle and I'm using the magnetic pickup to
> trigger it.
>
> Eddie      72 Cutlass conv 4spd
>
> ------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 18:56:43 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@yahoo.com>
Subject: Fwd: FAQ Page

Douglas Kitchener <dk0009@mail.pratt.lib.md.us> wrote:
>
> John, pls forward to Olds list for me, thanks!
> 
>                                         ********
> 
> Olds Listers,
> 
> This evening, I had occasion to help a guy who wants to put a '68
400 engine in 
> a '70 Cutlass S... and I got to wondering about which flex-plate
he'd need... it 
> dawned on me to check the FAQ page and sure 'nough, it was right
there!  This is 
> a great resource, just wanted to remind everyone to remember to
check it if you 
> have a tech question, and also to thank the folks who put it
together and 
> maintain it... well done!  Happy New Year!
> 
> Rocket on,
> 
> Doug Kitchener
> dk0009@mail.pratt.lib.md.us
> 
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 21:57:54 -0500
From: "G.J.C cc-iroc-ss" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Whats The Difference?

Toss on a vinyl top with matching color targa? molding. matching molding
around the port windows. Hey ray, Quincy had a manual 40/60 seat. Soon to be
quad recaros.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs

ICQ# 5209322
mailto:gjcouse@CC-IROC-SS.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 22:13:41 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds on Jeopardy

350 Diesel

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 22:13:30 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds on Jeopardy

 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 22:38:48 EST
From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: 400 Engine Rebuild Question

dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison) writes:

>>He only gets oil to 9 of 16 rockers 

>Would anybody who replies to this fellow please forward a copy of the 
>email to me

Never mind,  I've seen the emails that were posted to the list on this
and now know what the cause is...thanks

Dave Paulison       1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida   1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 22:48:37 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: points conversion

List,

Believe it or not, many of the MSD boxes can be triggered by your points --
the white wire that no one usually uses is the one to hook up.  How does it
work compared to the usual hook up?  Don't know -- never tried it, but it's
there.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 20:53:15 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: list info

My list is oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca but that is not the add for getting on
the list I'm not sure what add I used originally.

Here is a site I was told will help

Go to    www.onelist.com   for an excellent source for lists. You can start
any type
of list you want

- -----Original Message-----
From: Larry Pegg <nurelic@primenet.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, January 07, 1999 5:13 PM
Subject: list info


>I know of a company that might want to start a list for boats.  I don't
know
>where to send him    HELP.
>
>nurelic@primenet.com
>
>Larry Pegg
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 22:55:59 -0500
From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com>
Subject: Re: clock questions

Several years ago, JC Whitney was selling a quartz conversion clock movement
that was a direct bolt in to the clock in my '71.  Bought the thing for $20,
installed (which was not all that easy, as I recall), and it has kept
perfect time ever since.  Not sure that it is still available- if not in
catalog, maybe you could call them and ask if there is any old stock???
- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, January 07, 1999 12:38 AM
Subject: Re: clock questions


>Bbymks4@aol.com wrote:
>>
>>                 older clocks in older cars usually didn't last very long,
so
>> I've got
>>        a few questions about them.
>>
>>         #1 what causes them to die?
>
>I've heard that it has something to do with a switch in the clock that
>rewinds it after the spring loses a certain amount of tension.  As I
>understand it, sometimes the switch points would not properly close, and
>just barely touch.  The motor would try to wind the clock but the points
>could not handle the load because they weren't properly closed.  This
>caused them to wear out quickly and the clocks didn't last very long.
>
>>         #2 can they be easily fixed?
>
>Taken from the clock section of the olds FAQ:
>
>Standard Remedy
>     The quickie repair for clocks that just get gunked up (e.g. it's
>really hard to
>     even turn the hands using the knob) is to fog the mechanism with
>WD-40
>     through the backlighting holes in the back of the case (or after
>you've
>     disassembled the case, if possible). Squirt gently, not too long
>and not using
>     the extension tube on the spray head.
>
>Sorry, I don't know about 3 or 4.  Although I have wondered if you could
>remove the clockwork from a later quartz GM dash clock, attatch it to an
>older face and use the original hands....Anyone ever tried that?
>
>Good luck.
>
>Greg Pruett
>72 Vista Cruiser
>67 Cutlass Supreme
>80 Cultass Calais
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 22:55:52 EST
From: Mr57olds@aol.com
Subject: Re: 64 body mounts

My first question is can I get NOS body mounts anywhere?If  not,
will basically any G.M. mounts fit? 

I got a set for my '64 from the Paddock in Knightstown, In.   800-428-4319
about $120.  They have several Cutlass & 442 parts. Even a catalog for just
Cutlass.       Good luck on your project.
Mr57olds
'54 olds
'56 olds
'57 olds
2- '64 cutlass's

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1708
*********************************

