Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1712


oldsmobile-digest      Sunday, January 10 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1712



Re: Heat Pipe--Air Cleaner
Re: roller rockers for edelbrock heads
wanted: black 69 cutlass GB door
New gas tanks
A reply from Dick Miller to the List
Re: info book
Re: [FSJ-List] Y2K
Re: 1917 Oldsmobile 1 ton truck
Re: 1 1/4" Front Sway Bars
UNBOUNCE: '69 Glove Box Door
Re: UNBOUNCE: '69 Glove Box Door
Re: roller rockers for edelbrock heads
Re: wanted: black 69 cutlass GB door
Re: point shield
Re: roller rockers for edelbrock heads
Re: Gas Tanks F/S
Re: UNBOUNCE: '69 Glove Box Door
High Oil Pressure ( I Think)
Re: High Oil Pressure ( I Think)
RE: High Oil Pressure ( I Think)
needed ashtray & glovebox doors black 71 cutlass
Door Glass 1970 98 conv.
any info on 66 cutlass convertible
Re: the diff between stock 307/HO 307
Re: Cleaning Tanks-denture tablets
Re: roller rockers for edelbrock heads
Re: Speaker Location
Re: wanted: black 69 cutlass GB door
Re: wanted: black 69 cutlass GB door
Re: any info on 66 cutlass convertible
Re: ' 76 Cutlass "S"info. wanted on pushout windows
Re: Door Glass 1970 98 conv.
Re: More electrical qestions
Roller Rockers
Re: Door Glass 1970 98 conv.
shock conversion
Re: Door Glass 1970 98 conv.
Re: any info on 66 cutlass convertible
Re: More electrical qestions
Re: ' 76 Cutlass "S"info. wanted on pushout windows
Re: wanted: black 69 cutlass GB door
Re: shock conversion
Re: Door Glass 1970 98 conv.
Re: shock conversion
User 442
455 Rebuild
Ever seen a 652 or 852 bumpstick.
Re: Door Glass 1970 98 conv.
Re: Engine Fan
Re: 455 Rebuild
Re: Roller Rockers
how do remove crome molding?
Re: Engine Fan
Re: how do remove crome molding?
early 400 max bore size
Re: early 400 max bore size
Re: early 400 max bore size
Re: Engine Fan
Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"? ('68 Cutlass)
Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"? ('68 Cutlass)
Re: Roller Rockers
Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"? ('68 Cutlass)
Re: roller rockers for edelbrock heads
olds for sale
olds for sale
car for sale
Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"? ('68 Cutlass)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 22:34:57 -0500
From: "Brian Lorway" <lorway@home.net>
Subject: Re: Heat Pipe--Air Cleaner

Brothers Automotive has an excellent reproduction of this part.
http://www.oldsparts.com/ I believe the part number is HS455.

Brian

1970 4-4-2 W-30  4 speed
1971 4-4-2 W-30  convertible
1987 GN (WE-2)
OCA #028157
www.wmachines.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com


I'm having a lot of trouble with the shroud
that attaches to the exhaust manifold.  This part mates to the heat pipe
that
mates to the snorkel.  After finding an original cleaner assy, I've found
almost all the other parts in catalogs, but not this shroud.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 23:17:10 EST
From: W451973@aol.com
Subject: Re: roller rockers for edelbrock heads

hey, ben. what kind of bad news did you hear about using the harland sharp
rockers with the edelbrock heads? i bought a set from summit. i havent used
them yet. i am still building the motor. did you buy the special edelbrock
heads bolts that they sujest? if not what did you use? have you had any other
problems with these heads? what did you use for pushrods? and the big  ?   how
do you like the heads? i am building mine now and would apreciate your thougts
on these questions.  thanks.     dennis
w451973

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 23:16:13 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: wanted: black 69 cutlass GB door

Hello all.  I've got a request from a fellow 69 H/O owner who needs a
black glove box door.  His car was broken into, and the dough-heads
broke his glovebox door trying to get it open.

Would LOVE to find one in great shape, no cracks warps etc.  Does not
have to be from a 442 or Hurst or C/S.  he has the woodgrain.   But it
DOES have to be from a 69.  They're just a bit different. the woodgrain
doesn't line up correctly on the one I sent him, which I didn't bother
to check the year.  The hole area around the lock is a lot smaller on
the 68s evidently.  Different part number.

Anyway, if you have one in great shape you want to sell, email me
privately at hurstolds@xtalwind.net

Thanks
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 23:53:57 -0500
From: Jeff Mullenix <muxx@exis.net>
Subject: New gas tanks

Hi everybody,
    As you all know we now have the new gas tanks available for your
1964 - 72 Cutlass and 442's.  To our great oldsmobile enthusiasts we are
offering these at 149.95 plus shipping and handling(US funds) to the first
12 customers.  This is a special introductory offer.  After this the
standard everyday price will be $179.95, US funds. These include the filler
necks, ring collar and gaskets.  As we receive new products, we will be
offering great introductory limited time prices.  This is something new and
something that we will continue to do in the future.

Sincerely,

Jeff
C&M Classic Parts
Virginai Beach, Va
757-474-0869
<chermac@exis.net>  

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 00:32:50 -0500 (EST)
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: A reply from Dick Miller to the List

The following is a reply that Dick asked me to forward to the List.

He sent it to me after I had forward him the supportive posts from Steve K,
Joe P and a few others.

I almost thought it might be best to not post it as I have no interest in
restarting the p*ssing match.  But in the interest in equal "air time" here
it is.  Hopefully we can just drop this whole business and get back to
tinkering.

jp

=======================

Thank you for your support.  It is people like you who appreciate what I do
that keep me doing it.

Its people like Mr olds442 that that make me wonder why I don't go to work for
someone else and work 40 hours a week to make enough to pay my bills and then
have weekends and evenings to spend with Julie, go racing, see my kids, etc.
I have my 91 Super/Comp car for sale now because I never use it.  But I like
what I do and enjoy helping someone with a problem that they can't solve with
their limited experience.  I've been building Oldsmobiles since 1969 and have
made about all the mistakes possible.  That way I have learned what it takes
to make an Olds do what it needs to do.

I am one of the best at what I do.  However, to sell parts I have to also
answer countless questions from people, who I always hope, will some day be
customers.  I get questions from people like Mr olds442 that start out "I've
already talked to Dave Smith and Joe Mondello, what do you think?", to
questions like "I bought my parts from Summit and they told me to call you".

My response to Mr olds442 was to "talk to the people that he bought parts
from".  I still stick to that answer.

Every engine needs a plan of attack and different people have different plans.
That doesn't mean anyone is wrong,  Just different.

Mr olds442 is not a customer of ours or I don't believe he would have
contacted us third.  My responce was correct in that he did't need a third
opinion.  If he did't understand what the first two were trying to tell him
then one more wouldn't help.  I wish I had taken the time to explain that to
MR olds442.

I am sorry I offended anyone but life goes on.  Hopefully when Dave Smith, Joe
Mondello, and myself hang it up there will be someone else to help all the
ungratefull olds442s that need help.


Sincerely,

Dick

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 23:48:28 -0600 (CST)
From: senator@mail.chorus.net
Subject: Re: info book

Umm, was I the only one who recieved a massive digest #1710?  It looks like
someone included an attachment (a fairly large one at that).  Is this just
me?  Only the digest people?  I was just curious.

Olds info:  I think its time for a new air filter and plugs (replacing
Bosch Platinums with Bosch Platinum +4 plugs) for the '78 Cutlass Supreme.

Bob

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 06:30:12 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: [FSJ-List] Y2K

>hey, will this Y2K stuff effect OUR jeeps????

The easy way to tell is to set the date on your Jeep to Jan. 1, 1999, and
see if it runs.

Oh, wait; *can* you set the date on your Jeep? I can't on my Jeep...

Seriously, your FSJ, just like your toaster, doesn't care what the date is,
and will not be affected.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 06:30:07 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: 1917 Oldsmobile 1 ton truck

>Before I attempt to restore it,can anyone tell me if is rare,or not?My
>last attempt at restoration(1946 Chev Cabover)is almost done,and I need
>to line up my next project.
>It is missing some parts.I might need assistance locating them.Can you
>put me on the right list?Thanks.C.W.

Rare? Yes, I think that this truck would redefine our concepts of "rare";
not that many built, and I'm surprised that even one has survived. Just for
fun, I'd like to hear the response of regular junkyards when you called them
looking for parts... ;)

Doesn't the OCA have an advisor for each of the time periods? That'd be the
place to start. As for the truck, which engine did it use, the I-6 or the
V-8? Use of those engines did continue for a few years, breaking the "new
engine each year" trend Olds had been in for a while, so there'd even be a
remote chance you wouldn't have to fabricate replacement parts entirely from
scratch.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 06:30:10 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: 1 1/4" Front Sway Bars

>As someone mentioned yesterday the 1 1/4" front sway bar from a TransAm of
>the late 70s will bolt on to an '64-up A-body. I did this last summer 
 [snip]
>It almost seems that you need an end link sleeve that is 1/2" or so
>longer than stock. I have not been able to locate these. Anyone else 

A good choice for this would be some regular small-diameter black iron pipe
cut to the proper length. Then just get a couple bolts to match.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 07:51:25 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '69 Glove Box Door

Not on the list; respond to CBanks97@aol.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	CBanks97@aol.com
Subject: Olds Cutlass or 442

I'm looking for a glove box door for a 1969 Olds 442, or, if Cutlass is the
same, a Cutlass door. Color black. Good to excellent condition. Will pay fair
price.
Dan

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 08:35:22 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: '69 Glove Box Door

What does UNBOUNCE mean?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 08:56:01 -0500
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Re: roller rockers for edelbrock heads

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there is no differance that  i know of , have them on mine,
butch  68  442 post

DAVID DUROCHER wrote:

>  Does anybody know who makes roller rockers for edelbrock alluminum
> heads. I will be using stock valve covers without baffles. Mondello
> has a set of harland sharps for $399, and summit has harland sharps
> for $218. Does anybody know if there is a difference.      DAVE



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there is no differance that&nbsp; i know of , have them on mine,
<BR>butch&nbsp; 68&nbsp; 442 post

<P>DAVID DUROCHER wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>&nbsp;<B><FONT COLOR="#000000"><FONT SIZE=-1>Does
anybody know who makes roller rockers for edelbrock alluminum heads. I
will be using stock valve covers without baffles. Mondello has a set of
harland sharps for $399, and summit has harland sharps for $218. Does anybody
know if there is a difference.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; 
DAVE</FONT></FONT></B></BLOCKQUOTE>
&nbsp;
</BODY>
</HTML>

- --------------32D015905F66D9ACBCE53CEA--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 09:18:02 EST
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: wanted: black 69 cutlass GB door

mike, i have one he can have for free, all it will cost is the shipping.
steven, w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 11:02:08 EST
From: BigEJ@aol.com
Subject: Re: point shield

 <<   On one of my old 98s the points and condenser are covered by a two piece
metal shield.  There is a label inside that bears a Delco part number and
states that the shield is there to minimize radio interference from the
ignition.  Of all my cars, only one has this shield, and it came with an AM
radio.
    The question becomes this:  How common or rare is this cover, and what
were the applications ?  Peter.>>

These shields were used when the windshield antennas were introduced.  The
windshield antenna was particularly good at picking up static from the
ignition primary wire between the condenser and points.  The shields were used
on any car with a windshield antenna and radio until the "unipoint" was phased
in which did away with the troublesome connecting wire.    Most of these
shields were thrown away when mechanics converted the points and condenser to
unipoints.

Hope this helps

Ernie Johnson

67 442
50 88 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 10:11:54 -0600
From: "Greg" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: roller rockers for edelbrock heads

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    -----Original Message-----
    From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
    To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
    Date: Saturday, January 09, 1999 9:01 PM
    Subject: Re: roller rockers for edelbrock heads
   =20
    (snipped)
    My hint. Use small block chevy or ford rockers.=20
    Ben, You mean that any brand chevy or ford small block rocker arms =
will fit on the Edelbrock heads?  Could you be more specific?  What size =
studs, ratio, pushrods, etc....  Have you personally done this to see if =
it works?

   =20

    -greg




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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>Ben &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:olds442@primenet.com">olds442@primenet.com</A>&gt;<BR><B>T=
o:=20
    </B><A =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>=20
    &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>&g=
t;<BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>Saturday, January 09, 1999 9:01 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Re: roller =
rockers=20
    for edelbrock heads<BR></FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>(snipped)</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV>My hint. Use small block chevy or ford rockers. </DIV>
    <P><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Ben, You mean that any brand chevy =
or ford=20
    small block rocker arms will fit on the Edelbrock heads?&nbsp; Could =
you be=20
    more specific?&nbsp; What size studs, ratio, pushrods, etc....&nbsp; =
Have=20
    you personally done this to see if it works?</FONT>
    <P><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</P>
    <P><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>-greg</FONT></P>
    <P><FONT color=3D#000000 =
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</P></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 11:49:35 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Gas Tanks F/S

Bruce

        I'll check Monday to see if it's available and let you know.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts
(757)474-0869

At 08:53 AM 1/8/99 , you wrote:
>In a message dated 1/7/99 8:17:12 PM EST, chermac@exis.net writes:
>
><< I got some very good news for those needing a NEW gas tank. >>
>Hey Jim,
>
>Got a gas tank for my Delta?
>Bruce
>75 Delta 88 conv. (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 13:15:10 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: '69 Glove Box Door

On Sun, 10 Jan 1999 Gutlass66@aol.com wrote:

> What does UNBOUNCE mean?

The software that runs the mail list (majordomo) will reject or "bounce"
posts from non-members, or those containing certain words. Those words
include such ones as h*lp, uns*b, fr*e, and a bunch of others that I wish
I had a list of (I don't). Substitute a vowel for the * in those above.

Those posts bounce to me and I will forward them to the list if they are
appropriate. I title them "UNBOUNCE" so you'll know they aren't originally 
from me. If they are from a non-member I include that persons mail address
so you can c.c. an answer to them, since they wouldn't see it otherwise. 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 09:21:19 -0800
From: "noelle r murphy" <MURPH2@prodigy.net>
Subject: High Oil Pressure ( I Think)

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Ran the primer gray 66 yesterday for the first time in about a month,  very
little lifter knock initially,  then none at all.  The only unusual thing i
noticed was that even after approximately 30 minutes the engine temp stayed
in the 140 degree range,  but the oil pressure never dropped below 43 psi. 
Is this a problem?  If so ,  where do I start correcting the problem? 
Thank You in advance.

						Paul & Noelle
						'66 F-85
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<html><head></head><BODY bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF"><p><font size=3D2 =
color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Arial">Ran the primer gray 66 yesterday for =
the first time in about a month, &nbsp;very little lifter knock =
initially, &nbsp;then none at all. &nbsp;The only unusual thing i =
noticed was that even after approximately 30 minutes the engine temp =
stayed in the 140 degree range, &nbsp;but the oil pressure never dropped =
below 43 psi. &nbsp;Is this a problem? &nbsp;If so , &nbsp;where do I =
start correcting the problem? &nbsp;Thank You in =
advance.<br><br>&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;Paul &amp; =
Noelle<br>&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;&#009;'66 F-85</p>
</font></body></html>
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 12:33:27 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: High Oil Pressure ( I Think)

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I wouldn't worry about it.  At 140 that is about what I expect in most =
of my cars (depending on outside temp and oil viscosity).  If it is =
consistently over 55psi, I have seen a major increase in leakage. =20
Regards,
Fred
    -----Original Message-----
    From: noelle r murphy <MURPH2@prodigy.net>
    To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
    Date: Sunday, January 10, 1999 12:21 PM
    Subject: High Oil Pressure ( I Think)
   =20
   =20
    Ran the primer gray 66 yesterday for the first time in about a =
month,  very little lifter knock initially,  then none at all.  The only =
unusual thing i noticed was that even after approximately 30 minutes the =
engine temp stayed in the 140 degree range,  but the oil pressure never =
dropped below 43 psi.  Is this a problem?  If so ,  where do I start =
correcting the problem?  Thank You in advance.
   =20
    Paul & Noelle
    '66 F-85


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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I wouldn't worry about it.&nbsp; At =
140 that is=20
about what I expect in most of my cars (depending on outside temp and =
oil=20
viscosity).&nbsp; If it is consistently over 55psi, I have seen a major =
increase=20
in leakage.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT =
size=3D2>Regards,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Fred</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>noelle r murphy &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:MURPH2@prodigy.net">MURPH2@prodigy.net</A>&gt;<BR><B>To: =
</B><A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A> =
&lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>&g=
t;<BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>Sunday, January 10, 1999 12:21 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>High Oil =
Pressure (=20
    I Think)<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <P><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3DArial size=3D2>Ran the primer gray =
66 yesterday=20
    for the first time in about a month, &nbsp;very little lifter knock=20
    initially, &nbsp;then none at all. &nbsp;The only unusual thing i =
noticed=20
    was that even after approximately 30 minutes the engine temp stayed =
in the=20
    140 degree range, &nbsp;but the oil pressure never dropped below 43 =
psi.=20
    &nbsp;Is this a problem? &nbsp;If so , &nbsp;where do I start =
correcting the=20
    problem? &nbsp;Thank You in advance.<BR><BR>Paul &amp; Noelle<BR>'66 =

    F-85</P></FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 13:08:27 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: High Oil Pressure ( I Think)

Paul & Noelle
That oil pressure is just fine.  Are you running without a thermostat
though?  If so, you should probably put one in.  Running without one in the
winter is not really good, because the eninge never reaches its desired
operating temperature, more wear on parts.  You'll probably notice a drop in
pressure when the engine runs hotter, but it will appreciate it.


Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 Calais
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo
- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of noelle r murphy
Sent: Sunday, January 10, 1999 12:21 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: High Oil Pressure ( I Think)


Ran the primer gray 66 yesterday for the first time in about a month,  very
little lifter knock initially,  then none at all.  The only unusual thing i
noticed was that even after approximately 30 minutes the engine temp stayed
in the 140 degree range,  but the oil pressure never dropped below 43 psi.
Is this a problem?  If so ,  where do I start correcting the problem?  Thank
You in advance.

Paul & Noelle
'66 F-85

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 13:18:06 EST
From: MAT68442@aol.com
Subject: needed ashtray & glovebox doors black 71 cutlass

I am in need of an ashtray door & glovebox door for my 71 cutlass s . If
anyone has extra that they would like to sell please e-mail me at
MAT68442@aol.com 

Mark
87 442
71 cutlass s 
68 442 conv. (someday)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 13:29:10 -0500
From: "jackkopf" <jackkopf@email.msn.com>
Subject: Door Glass 1970 98 conv.

    Does anyone have any suggestions on a source for drivers
side door glass for a 1970 "98" convertible? The body shop
repainting my car broke it Saturday.


IT
Jack

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 13:22:24 EST
From: MAT68442@aol.com
Subject: any info on 66 cutlass convertible

I am looking at a 66 convertible that is for sale . I was wondering if there
are any unique problems that model may have that I should take a close look at
. Or anything that you feel that I should lookout for .


Mark
87 442
71 cutlass s
68 442 conv. (someday)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 11:32:14 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: the diff between stock 307/HO 307

>30 to 40 h.p., depending on the years compared. Your 85 VIN "Y" motor could
>be upgraded to VIN "9" HO status with the '86 - '87 442's cam, carb,
>computer chip, and a cat-back dual exhaust. Need the heavier valve springs
>too. I'm not sure if there's a piston difference (compression ratio). And
if
>your CSB has the 2.14 gears you may want 3.73's to take advantage of the
>higher power band.


I agree.  I think that my '81 307 can be upgraded to 220 HP with a CS1024
cam (204/214 duration @.050 and .448/.472 lift (same can I have in my 455),
mild head porting work (cost nothing but a bit of your time) and also
shaving the heads to the max. for compression, a re-jetted stock car and a
set of headers.  I have the opportunity to trade my 5A heads for a set of 7a
('72 350) with a tad smaller combustion chamber and better ports (maybe even
bigger valves).  The catch is that this is a shop I was talking to and the
only way they would do this is if I let them rebuild the heads (but I still
get to port the cores).  I think that with about 9.0 CR, that cam and
headers, a 307 would have no problem getting 220 HP and that with a set of
3.73s or 4.10s, it would really get a '80 Cutlass moving.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Regency (307/th2004r/propane)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 13:35:59 -0500
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Tanks-denture tablets

I filled mine with a strong solution of bleach, and put a couple of
Scotchbrite pads in. Shake vigorously, as often as you have the time to.
And it came out looking pretty darn good.
				R. Kevin Noon
				66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
				85 Delta 88 Royale Brougham (for sale)

- ----------
> From: Socalolds@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Cleaning Tanks-denture tablets
> Date: Friday, January 08, 1999 2:03 AM
> 
> Heres one solution to cleaning those old dingy washer tanks..... try
several
> denture cleaning tablets. You know the ones for removing stains from
gramma's
> dentures. 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 13:49:29 -0500
From: "Ken" <olds442@en.com>
Subject: Re: roller rockers for edelbrock heads

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_00A9_01BE3CA0.0B597AC0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

        Ben, You mean that any brand chevy or ford small block rocker =
arms will fit on the Edelbrock heads?  Could you be more specific?  What =
size studs, ratio, pushrods, etc....  Have you personally done this to =
see if it works?=20

       =20

        Comp Cams part number 1044-16 Oldsmobile V8 350-455 7/16" stud =
1.6 ratio $265

        Comp Cams part number 1044-16 Ford 289-351w 7/16" stud 1.6 ratio =
$265

        It's the same animal.  For a bigger savings use Harlend Shap =
Summit part #CSP500-1 Olds 350-455 w/modified

        heads (meaning the larger 7/16" studs installed, edelbrock heads =
are already set up) These rockers are identical=20

        to the Comp Cams variety and at $219 are abit cheaper.

        As for pushrod length, that will depend on the cam you have.  =
They sell a test pushrod that you can=20

        use to determine the optimal length you need.  Then you can =
order a custom set of hardened pushrods=20

        from them or anyone else you care to deal with. =20

        Rocker studs aren't needed.  The studs that come with the =
Edelbrock heads are 7/16" already.

        Guide plates are also not needed.  The Edelbrock heads come with =
them.

        Of corse you could buy a premade kit from Miller or Mondello =
containing comparable parts with a substantial

        mark up.

        Millers is $510 for rockers, poly locks, guide plates, studs and =
pushrods

        Mondello is around the same for rockers, poly locks, studs, =
guide plates and pushrods

        If you do abit of homework you will see that all these parts are =
avalible from places like Summit Racing

        and Jegs for a good savings.

       =20

        Evil Ken

        olds442@en.com

       =20




- ------=_NextPart_000_00A9_01BE3CA0.0B597AC0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <BLOCKQUOTE=20
    style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
PADDING-LEFT: 5px">
        <P><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Ben, You mean that any brand =
chevy or ford=20
        small block rocker arms will fit on the Edelbrock heads?&nbsp; =
Could you=20
        be more specific?&nbsp; What size studs, ratio, pushrods, =
etc....&nbsp;=20
        Have you personally done this to see if it works?</FONT>=20
        <P>&nbsp;</P>
        <P><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Comp Cams part number 1044-16 =
Oldsmobile=20
        V8 350-455 7/16&quot; stud 1.6 ratio $265</FONT></P>
        <P><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Comp Cams part number 1044-16 =
Ford=20
        289-351w 7/16&quot; stud 1.6 ratio $265</FONT></P>
        <P><FONT size=3D2>It's the same animal.&nbsp; For a bigger =
savings use=20
        Harlend Shap Summit part #CSP500-1 Olds 350-455 =
w/modified</FONT></P>
        <P><FONT size=3D2>heads (meaning the larger 7/16&quot; studs =
installed,=20
        edelbrock heads are already set up) These rockers are identical=20
        </FONT></P>
        <P><FONT size=3D2>to the Comp Cams </FONT><FONT size=3D2>variety =
and at $219=20
        are abit cheaper.</FONT></P>
        <P><FONT size=3D2>As for pushrod length, that will depend on the =
cam you=20
        have.&nbsp; They sell a test pushrod that you can </FONT></P>
        <P><FONT size=3D2>use to determine the optimal length you =
need.&nbsp; Then=20
        you can order a custom set of hardened pushrods </FONT></P>
        <P><FONT size=3D2>from them or anyone </FONT><FONT size=3D2>else =
you care to=20
        deal with.&nbsp; </FONT></P>
        <P><FONT size=3D2>Rocker studs aren't needed.&nbsp; The studs =
that come=20
        with the Edelbrock heads are 7/16&quot; already.</FONT></P>
        <P><FONT size=3D2>Guide plates are also not needed.&nbsp; The =
Edelbrock=20
        heads come with them.</FONT></P>
        <P><FONT size=3D2>Of corse you could buy a premade kit from =
Miller or=20
        Mondello containing comparable parts with a =
substantial</FONT></P>
        <P><FONT size=3D2>mark up.</FONT></P>
        <P><FONT size=3D2>Millers is $510 for rockers, poly locks, guide =
plates,=20
        studs and pushrods</FONT></P>
        <P><FONT size=3D2>Mondello is around the same for rockers, poly =
locks,=20
        studs, guide plates and pushrods</FONT></P>
        <P><FONT size=3D2>If you do abit of homework you will see that =
all these=20
        parts are avalible from places like Summit Racing</FONT></P>
        <P><FONT size=3D2>and Jegs for a good savings.</FONT></P>
        <P>&nbsp;</P>
        <P><FONT size=3D2>Evil Ken</FONT></P>
        <P><FONT size=3D2><A=20
        href=3D"mailto:olds442@en.com">olds442@en.com</A></FONT></P>
        <P><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</P>
        <P><FONT =
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</P></BLOCKQUOTE></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_00A9_01BE3CA0.0B597AC0--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 10:59:16 -0800 (PST)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Speaker Location

     From my experience, speakers sound better when pointing towards
the passenger compartment.  I have no idea why the factory would put
them in any other way.

Just my $.02

==

     Stefan
     1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
     70Cutlass@Beer.com

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 14:07:55 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: wanted: black 69 cutlass GB door

W30442CS@aol.com wrote:
> 
> mike, i have one he can have for free, all it will cost is the shipping.
> steven, w30442cs@aol.com


Cool.  As long as it's for a 69. Like I said, I goofed and gave him a 68
not knowing.  Has a bit larger opening around the lock hole vs. 68. 
Thanks a lot.  

Here's the address

Mike Rothe
8590 W. Mayo Dr. Apt. 29
Crystal River, FL 34429

I can send you what, 5 bucks shipping?  I have no idea.  Let me know.

Mike

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 14:10:02 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: wanted: black 69 cutlass GB door

Sorry all.  I didn't realize I shoulda went private with that reply.  My
bad.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 14:19:22 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: any info on 66 cutlass convertible

Mark

        Here's a couple areas to look at. In front of both rear wheels, lower
front fenders, floor and trunk rot. The front of these hoods liked to rot from
the inside out too.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts

At 01:22 PM 1/10/99 , you wrote:
>I am looking at a 66 convertible that is for sale . I was wondering if there
>are any unique problems that model may have that I should take a close look at
>. Or anything that you feel that I should lookout for .
>
>
>Mark
>87 442
>71 cutlass s
>68 442 conv. (someday)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 11:22:54 -0800
From: "Marvin Friesen" <gowest@direct.ca>
Subject: Re: ' 76 Cutlass "S"info. wanted on pushout windows

I think this is the 2nd time this question has surfaced.

No such thing listed in my 1976 Advance Ordering Information binder
(ordering summer 1995).
I've never seen one.

I don't think it exits. Given the way the window is installed from the
inside, such a window would require significant change from the regular one.

Marvin Friesen
Vancouver, BC

1976 Cutlass S One Owner
1976 Cutlass S  2nd Owner

- -----Original Message-----
From: Bbymks4@aol.com <Bbymks4@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, January 08, 1999 6:41 PM
Subject: Re: ' 76 Cutlass "S"info. wanted on pushout windows


>
>            Sorry, I forgot to sign my name
>
>          your replies are appreacited
>
>         Thanks from.....Steve M.
>         1-73 442
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 14:34:48 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Door Glass 1970 98 conv.

jackkopf wrote:
> 
>     Does anyone have any suggestions on a source for drivers
> side door glass for a 1970 "98" convertible? The body shop
> repainting my car broke it Saturday.


I would say the body shop that broke it as they are responsible it would
appear.  Usual sources are 442.com parts for sale section and Hemmings.
First thing I would do is to find out what interchanges with it so you
might be able to widen your search field.  All American in Washington
state might have something at 1-800-955-4999 or Weimar Auto at
1-916-637-5524 or Vintage Auto in Idaho at 1-208-587-3743.  These
numbers are a year old so they may or may not have changed.  Good luck.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 20:00:03 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: More electrical qestions

not normal nosirree this is caused by the thing getting an overcharge
(probably why your other battery blew up) this is coming from the regulator
there have been many times that the reg was bad from the word go but if you
have used three alternators two regs and two batteries dont know what to
tell you but the voltage at the bat should read 13.2 volts when the engine
is running and 12.9 volts when the engine is not running if your readings
are different than this you need to find the problem and fix it could be the
reg the alt but likely not the battery more likely the regulator if you are
using a solid state reg check into the old fashioned resistors and points
type a friend of mine who owns and operates a starter and alternator shop
has always recommended these to me whenever a problem came up on one of my
or my customers cars he is very trustworthy and an alaround good guy would
never try to cheat any one the solid state type is cheaper and lighter and
not very reliable good luck....KK
- -----Original Message-----
From: Daniel R. Gerow <dgerow@coal.stonehill.edu>
To: Oldsmobile List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, January 09, 1999 3:13 PM
Subject: More electrical qestions


>I'm on my 2nd new voltage regulator, 3rd Alternator, and 2nd battery in
>my '71 Cutlass.  Everything is fine now, except I've noticed one little
>thing;  Is it normal for a battery to hiss?  I just bought a brand new
>Die-Hard, and I've noticed a hissing noise coming from the top where the
>cell caps are.  Should I worry about this?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Dan Gerow
>
>'69 4-4-2
>'71 Cutlass Supreme
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 20:20:37 -0600
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Roller Rockers

Just to let some of you know the 1.65:1 ratio rockers that were originally
installed on the 5.0 Stangs will bolt on in place of the stock rockers using
the same thread bolt and torque spec. if you need rollers and can stand
using ford parts these are available from a few suppliers they are full
roller just like the other ones on the market
will look up the part number and post it if any one is interested...KK

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 14:41:54 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Door Glass 1970 98 conv.

jackkopf wrote:
> 
>     Does anyone have any suggestions on a source for drivers
> side door glass for a 1970 "98" convertible? The body shop
> repainting my car broke it Saturday.

You might also try CTC's Auto Ranch in Sanger, Tx at 1-800-482-6199.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 16:19:26 EST
From: Mr57olds@aol.com
Subject: shock conversion

I have a '54 olds with knee action (lever type) shocks that I would like to
convert to regular tube type shocks.  Later years such as '56 have a tube
shock in center of coil spring and attaches to upper control arm.  This is
impossible with '54.  Has anyone had any experience with this type conversion.
TIA
Mr57olds     Bruce
'54 olds
'56 olds
'57 olds
2 '64 cutlasses

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 16:50:52 -0500
From: "Jacob E Hanlon" <HANLONMAN@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Door Glass 1970 98 conv.

Please take my address (hanlonman@prodigy.net) off of the list.  Thank you.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 16:51:54 -0500
From: "Jacob E Hanlon" <HANLONMAN@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: any info on 66 cutlass convertible

Please take my address (hanlonman@prodigy.net) off the mailing list.  Thank
you.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 16:52:26 -0500
From: "Jacob E Hanlon" <HANLONMAN@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: More electrical qestions

Please take my address ( hanlonman@prodigy.net) off the mailing list.  Thank
you.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 16:52:56 -0500
From: "Jacob E Hanlon" <HANLONMAN@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: ' 76 Cutlass "S"info. wanted on pushout windows

Please take my address (hanlonman@prodigy.net) off the mailing list.
Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 16:53:23 -0500
From: "Jacob E Hanlon" <HANLONMAN@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: wanted: black 69 cutlass GB door

Please take my address (hanlonman@prodigy.net) off the mailing list.
Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 16:53:58 -0500
From: "Jacob E Hanlon" <HANLONMAN@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: shock conversion

Please take my address (hanlonman@prodigy.net) off the mailing list.
Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 14:08:23 -0800
From: Shawn Holwegner <shawn@holwegner.com>
Subject: Re: Door Glass 1970 98 conv.

On Sun, Jan 10, 1999 at 04:50:52PM -0500, Jacob E Hanlon wrote:
> Please take my address (hanlonman@prodigy.net) off of the list.  Thank you.
- ---end quoted text---
Please quit sending this, email majordomo@chebucto.ns.ca with the
body text of 'unsubscribe oldsmobile.

- - S
- -- 
#$Bourne compatible .sig,v1.003 1998/12/09 09:16:32 shawn Exp $
set `date +"cc echo ./a.out rm Funja Ubyjrtare /tmp/t.c
main(a){while(a=~getchar())putchar(~a-1/(~(a|32)/13*2-11)*13);}"`;
$2 $8>$7;g$1 $7||$1 $7;$2 $5 $6, rznvy: $5@$6.Pbz.|$3;$4 $3 $7

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 17:23:16 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: shock conversion

Jacob E Hanlon wrote:
> 
> Please take my address (hanlonman@prodigy.net) off the mailing list.
> Thanks.

If you will check the instructions that came when you got on the list it
will tell you how to get OFF the list.  Works a whole lot better than
all these worthless posts.  If you don't have the instructions, they are
available at the end of any post from Charley, the Oldsmagnet.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 17:37:32 -0500
From: "CC-IROC-SS" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: User 442

He, he, Just watching "Clear and present danger" and Harrison Ford logged on
the White House network as "User 442"... Coool.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@CC-IROC-SS.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 18:12:51 -0500
From: "Jim & Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: 455 Rebuild

Well guys, I finally did it.  I pulled the 455 from my '73 Olds Delta 88.  I
found out that the lack of compression in cylinder #2 was due to a trashed
exhaust valve.  The bores were incredible!  130k miles and hardly any wear!
Only 2 or 3 cylinders had detectable ridge.  I don't think the high nickel
blocks stopped in 1972!  The first thing I need to do is eat a large slice
of humble pie for stating that aluminum intakes were a waste of money.  I
bought the Edelbrock intake and cam for my motor.  This motor will be
reassembled and installed in a month with your help.  I need an exhaust
valve measuring 1.627" according to my shop manual.  Northern Auto Parts
sells one with 1.71" diameter.  This is too big so does anyone sell one the
right size or can the 1.71" valve be "turned down" by a machinist?  I have
already ordered a rering kit along with the manifold and cam already in my
possession.  Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 16:12:41 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Ever seen a 652 or 852 bumpstick.

Does anyone know if there ever was an Olds cam with a part number
ending in either 652 or 852?

I have a cam from, what I believe, is an early 70's 455 engine
sitting on my desk.  I read in the cam section of the FAQ that the
casting number does not identify the cam but sometimes the last 3
digits of the part number is painted on the rear end.  Unfortunately
the first digit was somewhat lost but it looks to be either a 6 or
an 8.

The FAQ did not list any cams ending in either 652 or 852.  If
anyone knows what this one is I would appreciated them letting me
know.  It's probably just a conversation piece but I would like to
know if it helps identify what the motor originally was.
- -- 
Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 18:59:07 -0500
From: "jackkopf" <jackkopf@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Door Glass 1970 98 conv.

Don

Thanks for the sources. The Body shop is paying but didn't
know any sources.

Jack
- -----Original Message-----
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: January 10, 1999 2:45 PM
Subject: Re: Door Glass 1970 98 conv.


>jackkopf wrote:
>>
>>     Does anyone have any suggestions on a source for
drivers
>> side door glass for a 1970 "98" convertible? The body
shop
>> repainting my car broke it Saturday.
>
>
>I would say the body shop that broke it as they are
responsible it would
>appear.  Usual sources are 442.com parts for sale section
and Hemmings.
>First thing I would do is to find out what interchanges
with it so you
>might be able to widen your search field.  All American in
Washington
>state might have something at 1-800-955-4999 or Weimar Auto
at
>1-916-637-5524 or Vintage Auto in Idaho at 1-208-587-3743.
These
>numbers are a year old so they may or may not have changed.
Good luck.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 18:59:07 EST
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine Fan

Thanks for the response, Harry.  My car doesn't have A/C, so I'm OK without a
fan shroud? By the way, great site and gorgeous car!  Congrats on the find!!!

Scott Parker

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 19:02:29 EST
From: Ramrod442@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 Rebuild

If you get a valve a competent machinist can do the job for you. I'm a
machinist in the navy so if a good machine shop do let me know and ill help
you out

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 19:06:28 EST
From: Ramrod442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Roller Rockers

will they work on a 455 olds? 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 19:16:53 EST
From: Ramrod442@aol.com
Subject: how do remove crome molding?

i have a 1965 olds vista cruzer and the lip for the back side glass is rusted
out.how do i get the crome molding off to remove the glass? 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 19:24:07 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine Fan

Yep, your OK with no fan shroud as long as your car is not a W30. They had fan
shrouds even with no A/C.Thanks for the compliments on my 73. 
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">1973 Olds Cutlass 455
4speed</A>  Your Olds friend from NJ , Harry 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 20:06:58 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: how do remove crome molding?

In a message dated 1/10/99 6:20:40 PM Central Standard Time, Ramrod442@aol.com
writes:

<< i have a 1965 olds vista cruzer and the lip for the back side glass is
rusted
 out.how do i get the crome molding off to remove the glass?  >>


I am working on a VC currently...if you are talking about the reveal
molding...it is best to use a trim removal tool, but I was able to remove mine
with a screwdrivier. just be very careful not to bend the trim when removing
it, as it is impossible to find a replacement. 

Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 20:09:28 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: early 400 max bore size

Hello all,
 Can someone tell me if the early 400 is the same basic casting as the
425, thus allowing the block to be bored to the 425 bore size?
RTP if you like.
Thanks.
Dave Brode 64 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 20:25:50 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: early 400 max bore size

Well my dad had the 400 block in his 67 bored .125 to equal a 425 . The
original 400 block has tons of meat left compared to an original 425 , so I
would say they are the same. The 67 motor runs awesome and has no over heating
probs.Your Olds friend from NJ   Harry  
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">1973 Olds Cutlass 455
4speed</A> 

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Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 20:28:02 EST
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Re: early 400 max bore size

Had the same question for the list about 3 months ago, and opinion was split. 

Joe Mondello said it was OK as did Chris Witt who relayed visually inspecting
a 400 'E' block engine in cutaway at MSU that had 'remarkably thick' walls.

Having a set of std 425 pistons, 4-1/8" bore, I went ahead and installed them
into my '66 442 400ci 'E' block. These motors have a 4" bore, so had to go
.125 over. The machine shop was skeptical, but noted no problems. Apparently
they can 'hear' when the cyl walls get too thin while boring them out, and
none of that came to pass. 

Motor is assembled and running well. Does not get hot. Only about 1500 mi so
far, but no problems. Know of at least 3 other engines this has been done to
and all of those are running well too.

So to summarize, it seems that the early 400 blocks can accept the 425 pistons
and a 1/8" overbore without difficulty.

Peter Sliskovich
coupeking@aol.com
San Pedro, CA

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Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 20:54:02 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Fan

the fan shroud helps immensely in hot weather conditions.  Driving in
stop and go traffic for any length of time can cause the car to overheat
without it, apparently because the air gets drawn from everywhere except
through the radiator--which doesn't allow the air to cool the water in
the radiator.  It sounds crazy but I have had it happen on my old
Volvo.  An Olds shouldn't be any different, since both were belt-driven
fans.
Brian.

CPEARLPARK@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Who can help me with a question about the engine fan setup on a 71 4-4-2?  My
> car currently has no plastic shroud over the fan. Should it?  I'm trying to
> get back to 100% original in the engine compartment, but not sure what that 
is
> when dealing with the fan.  Thanks in advance.
> 
> Scott
> 71 4-4-2 Convertible

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Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 21:03:51 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"? ('68 Cutlass)

Can something like this happen?

I put a new battery in the car 2 weeks ago. The guy at the parts place
checked and said the other battery was dead. Installed new battery, car
cranked and ran fine.

Car has since sat in garage for last 2 weeks. Thought I'd try to fire it up
this afternoon and nothing. Not even an interior light. Put the charger on
and the interior lights now work - haven't tried to start it yet.

Suggestions?

TIA.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 21:31:16 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"? ('68 
Cutlass)

Could have been a bad (poorly charged) battery, or a dead short.  This
is caused when something that is hot all the time (lights, cigarette
lighter, anything that is not ignition-key switched) has bad wire
insulation and comes in contact with anything metal.  This will drain a
battery almost as quickly as leaving the accessory on that is
shorting--that is, if one parking light has a loose/shorting wire it
will drain the battery as quickly as if you left only one small light on
intentionally for too long.  It may take a few days, that's why they
often go unnoticed.  If you drive the car every day it may weaken the
battery but not so much that it won't start and be charged by the
alternator.
Just my $.02
Brian.  

C. Casteel wrote:
> 
> Can something like this happen?
> 
> I put a new battery in the car 2 weeks ago. The guy at the parts place
> checked and said the other battery was dead. Installed new battery, car
> cranked and ran fine.
> 
> Car has since sat in garage for last 2 weeks. Thought I'd try to fire it up
> this afternoon and nothing. Not even an interior light. Put the charger on
> and the interior lights now work - haven't tried to start it yet.
> 
> Suggestions?
> 
> TIA.

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Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 19:37:06 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Roller Rockers

as for all roller rocker questions. I can only answer for the 7/16" stud
1.6 ratio rockers. I used for roller rockers on my edelbrock heads. They
work just fine! For stock heads I'm not sure, but I wouldn't discount
the possibility. The largest problem that I can see is the distance from
the fulcrum to the bearing tip that pushes the valve. Mine appear to be
right on with the alum heads. Can't speak for the stock again, but don't
discount it yet.

Ben

Ramrod442@aol.com wrote:

> will they work on a 455 olds?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 21:39:25 EST
From: Lou0118@aol.com
Subject: Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"? ('68 
Cutlass)

In a message dated 1/10/99 9:05:22 PM Eastern Standard Time,
earthsci@pop.usit.net writes:

<< I put a new battery in the car 2 weeks ago. The guy at the parts place
 checked and said the other battery was dead. Installed new battery, car
 cranked and ran fine.
 
 Car has since sat in garage for last 2 weeks. Thought I'd try to fire it up
 this afternoon and nothing. Not even an interior light. Put the charger on
 and the interior lights now work - haven't tried to start it yet.
  >>


You may have a short in the electrical system.
To check this, disconnect the postive terminal and hook up a test light
between the cable and battery terminal.
If everything is OK the light should not come on. Usually when you open the
door the light should come on just like your dome light would.
If the test light is on and everything in the car is off, you have short
somewhere in the system.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 19:40:38 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: roller rockers for edelbrock heads

No, I don't mean ANY rockers. Look at the speks. 1.6 ratio 7/16 for the
alum heads. It saved me lots of money that I just didn't have to get my
heads running.  For the stock heads. Call and get some info. Somebody
may want (if they have roller, stock and roller tipped handy) measure
the distance from the pivot point to the center of the roller bearing.
Check the distance with your local parts man and you should be okay. I
don't think they make a rocker that is "offset" so center of the
geometry shouldn't be a problem.

Ben

Greg wrote:

>
>
>      -----Original Message-----
>      From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
>      To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>      Date: Saturday, January 09, 1999 9:01 PM
>      Subject: Re: roller rockers for edelbrock heads(snipped)My
>      hint. Use small block chevy or ford rockers.Ben, You mean
>      that any brand chevy or ford small block rocker arms will
>      fit on the Edelbrock heads?  Could you be more specific?
>      What size studs, ratio, pushrods, etc....  Have you
>      personally done this to see if it works?
>
>
>
>      -greg
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 18:53:07 -0800
From: "P. &N. Bottomley" <ainlet@seaside.net>
Subject: olds for sale

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1970 442 w30 for sale.car has 4 speed. engine,front fenders =
,bumpers,removed .all there except red inner fenders air cleaner,air box =
&exhaust system.car in dry storage on vancouver island canada e mail is =
ainlet@seaside.net

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>1970 442 w30 for sale.car has 4 =
speed.=20
engine,front fenders ,bumpers,removed .all there except red inner =
fenders air=20
cleaner,air box &amp;exhaust system.car in dry storage on vancouver =
island=20
canada e mail is ainlet@seaside.net</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE3CCA.76751EC0--

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Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 18:58:24 -0800
From: "P. &N. Bottomley" <ainlet@seaside.net>
Subject: olds for sale

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1970 442 w30 455 4speed . partially apart .little rust rear wheel =
quarters.email me at ainlet@seaside.net

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<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>1970 442 w30 455 4speed . partially =
apart=20
.little rust rear wheel quarters.email me at=20
ainlet@seaside.net</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 19:00:49 -0800
From: "P. &N. Bottomley" <ainlet@seaside.net>
Subject: car for sale

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1970 442 w30 email me at ainlet@seaside.net

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ainlet@seaside.net</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 22:15:23 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Can something discharge a battery when switch is "off"? ('68 
Cutlass)

In a message dated 1/10/99 9:43:27 PM Eastern Standard Time, Lou0118@aol.com
writes:

<< In a message dated 1/10/99 9:05:22 PM Eastern Standard Time,
 earthsci@pop.usit.net writes:
 
 << I put a new battery in the car 2 weeks ago. The guy at the parts place
  checked and said the other battery was dead. Installed new battery, car
  cranked and ran fine.
  
  Car has since sat in garage for last 2 weeks. Thought I'd try to fire it up
  this afternoon and nothing. Not even an interior light. Put the charger on
  and the interior lights now work - haven't tried to start it yet. >>

Sounds like a relay is bad. It is probably staying open and it drains your
battery.Happened on a 69 _hevelle SS 396(bad word here)I had.Not sure where if
is on your year. Could be by headlight area or on firewall.Usually covered by
a rectangular metal cover. Replace it. Your problem should go away then. Harry
from NJ.... <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">1973 Olds
Cutlass 455 4speed</A> 

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1712
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