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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1797


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, February 22 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1797



JWO Isuue With Mondello Oil Article
Re: What A Body radiator for a '71 VC?
Re: How to take a frame off the body???
Re: Roll Call
Emblem jpg's - Who needs an Edge?
RE: My Classic Car Episode
RE: How to take a frame off the body???
Carb Spacer, Status
Roll Call
Re: 1969 442 Trunk Molding
power club
Re: My Classic Car Episode
Under Bumper Scoops was RE: Re. Roll Call
RE: Rechroming bumpers...need suggestions!
Re: Hot Rod Power Club
Re: What A Body radiator for a '71 VC?
Re: where can I find headlight fusible links? (reply and a question)
Re: emails
RE: Hot Rod Power Club
What is a Weber Side Draft?
Re: Rechroming bumpers...need suggestions! (Desert Dog)
Re: Rechroming bumpers...need suggestions!
Re: where can I find headlight fusible links? (reply and a question)
Re: new 71 owner
RE: Rechroming bumpers...need suggestions!
Re: What is a Weber Side Draft?
Parts Wanted
Re: My Cutlass has a problem
Re: Parts Wanted
Carb Spacer, Status (fwd)
Re: My Cutlass has a problem
Re: Differential Oil
RE: What is a Weber Side Draft?
Roll call.
ID's needed
Re: new 71 owner
Re: where can I find headlight fusible links? (reply and a  question)
69 442...
Re: where can I find headlight fusible links? (reply and a  question)
Re: Rechroming bumpers...need suggestions!
Re: 69 442...
1965 VC was: ID's needed
RE: Rechroming bumpers...need suggestions!
Re: My Cutlass has a problem
72 Cutlass Parts FS
Re: 69 442...
BB Webber intake? was: What is a Weber Side Draft?
Cutlass X-treme (was: Re: Emblem jpg's - Who needs an Edge?)
belt strain was: My Cutlass has a problem

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 01:14:03 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: JWO Isuue With Mondello Oil Article

I misplaced my JWO issue that was about 2-3 months ago wiht an article on
455s about oil pressure. It had an article with Joe Mondello talking about
oil pressure. I need to know the part where it stated what idle, hot
drive,etc. should be. I think it was 1 paragraph that stated the
information....



Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 21 Feb 1999 23:24:57 -0800
From: mitzm@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: What A Body radiator for a '71 VC?

1. What radiator is correct for a '71 VC 455 air, and what year/model
car am I likely to find one in? Anybody got one? I want a 4 row.

2. What does this weird thing I've got fit? I never saw an Oldsmobile
that had a heater hose running back into the radiator.
_____________

National Automotive lines has a 4 row modine for this car for  $161 (plus
about $10-15 shipping).

1-800-428-4300



Hans


Mitzm@mail.earthlink.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 01:22:27 -0600 (CST)
From: blue442@webtv.net
Subject: Re: How to take a frame off the body???

Anybody happen to know what the body weighs as a bare shell?  Just an
approximate weight for a 68, sans doors, trunk, seats, dash, and glass.

The motor's out, mightaswell.......

Thanks,

Jeff Carter
blue442@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 01:28:42 -0600
From: Mark <greenmm@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Roll Call

Mark MacDonald
Age:23
College Station, TX
Full time History Major/Political Science Minor at Texas A&M University
(WHOOOP!)
- --graduate in December and get teacher certification next May
Work part time at Super Wal-Mart (Bakery)
Work part time for Texas A&M University (drive a BIG bus)

My baby: 1975 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale Convertible (with a 455)

(1) Fiance (married in year 2000)
(1) 5-year old son (loves my car over hers :)

Mark MacDonald
http://home.earthlink.net/~greenmm


OldsRokkit@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Just curious...how many Oldsmobilers do we have here, where y'all from, and
> what do you do to pay the restoration/gas/insurance/tire bills?  I'll start:
> 
> Drew A. Durigan
> Hays, Kansas
> Midday personality on Mix103FM, one of three co-owned Radio, Inc. stations
> here in Western Kansas.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 00:42:34 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Emblem jpg's - Who needs an Edge?

Finally found my "Edge" emblems, and got 'em scanned in.  Anyone need them for 
a
web page or personal collections, feel free... 

This was for the 1980 Cutlass Edge package that gave the stainless strip across
the roof and C-pillars.  Don't know much more about 'em than that.  Apparantly 
a
dealer-installed package, as far as I know, 1980 only.

http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet/edgescrp.jpg

- -- 

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 04:00:12 -0500
From: "Gary Couse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: My Classic Car Episode

I agree, Harry. In the exception of a pristine original LOW mileage car,
every effort SHOULD be taken to maintain their current status. Afterall,
these are the cars that will be museum pieces in 50 - 75 years when
everything is electric powered or whatever alternative power systems are
employed. I vote yes for those rare examples. Keep up the good work keeping
that Vaseline baby new Harry.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's
Route-1, Box-615
Purling, NY 12470

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of RARE73OLDS@aol.com
> Sent: Monday, February 22, 1999 12:45 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: My Classic Car Episode
>
>
> Hey now!..easy goin there.....My car has only 8,900 orig miles
> and everything
> is orig. that came on the car
> <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">1973 Olds Cutlass 455
> 4speed</A> . I do agree though that Musclcars should be driven as
> they were
> intended to be. But every once in awhile there are exeptions.
> That why there
> are other musclecars out there you can drive that have more miles
> on them. It
> would be ashame to just start driving the real low mileage ones after all
> those years of the orig. owner trying to take care of the
> car,..Hot Rod Harry
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 04:12:27 -0500
From: "Gary Couse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: How to take a frame off the body???

At our conversion shop here in upstate NY we use the same principal. Though
we go One step further. We have Two stands similar to extra heavy engine
stands with large center rotating sections. One each bolted to the frame
ends both facing each other towards the center of the car. They are that
connected to each other at floor level with box steel. We can "Spin" the
whole body/frame assembly for easy sandblasting and painting as one end is
motorized. We can adapt this to any framed vehicle as we have 25' high
ceiling in the main shop. Coool.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's
Route-1, Box-615
Purling, NY 12470

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Brian Lorway
> Sent: Monday, February 22, 1999 1:04 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: How to take a frame off the body???
>
>
> I removed the body on my GN with four simplex jacks and some assorted
> timbers. I raised it approx. 12" above the frame and then installed six
> 11/2" x 11" pipes where the body mounts to the frame. Got some
> threaded rod
> and large flat washers and mounted the body tight to the frame with the
> pipes between the two. This allows you to work on the frame and the bottom
> of the car easily. It also allows you to transport the vehicle easily for
> the trip to the media blasting facility. I never did have a need to
> completely roll the frame clear of the body, I was able to paint the frame
> and underside of the body without any difficulty. If you want to see some
> pics of this method take a look here
> http://www.rust.net/~blorway/itsasix.htm
>
> Regards,
> Brian
>
> 1970 4-4-2 W-30  4 speed
> 1971 4-4-2 W-30  convertible
> 1987 GN (WE-2)
> OCA #028157
> www.wmachines.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Dshack4@aol.com To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Date: Sunday, February 21, 1999 7:42 PM
> Subject: How to take a frame off the body???
> >Is it hard (once you have the doors, hood, fenders, etc) to get the body
> off
> >of the frame?
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 09:04:54 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Carb Spacer, Status

Hi Listers,

long time no mail... well yesterday I finally took the motor out the 
living room! It had it fully assembled and there is only one thing I 
learned from this: 
Do not assemble the whole engine at a place where you can't get it with 
the crane!!! Well, I ended up building a wooden ramp to the outside of 
the house to grab it there with the crane... How much does a 350 weigh 
with heads and everything on? 

I have two questions:

- - Will a carb spacer help to get a little more response in the lower rpm 
  range when used with a single plane intake (holley dominator) like mine?

- - Where can you get those radiator rubber spacers??? (two on top and two 
  on the bottom of the radiaotor.)

So long, 
George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 03:32:58 -0600
From: "Ed Linehan" <ed@techniflite.com>
Subject: Roll Call

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01BE5E14.0AEB4420
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Ed Linehan, 35
Senior Flight Simulator Engineer
Techniflite of America
Highlands Ranch, CO

70 442 W-30 Sport Coupe
71 Cutlass Supreme SX

- ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01BE5E14.0AEB4420
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<STYLE></STYLE>

<META content=3D'"MSHTML 5.00.0910.1309"' name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Courier New" size=3D2>Ed Linehan, 35</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Courier New">Senior Flight Simulator =
Engineer</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Courier New">Techniflite of America</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Courier New">Highlands Ranch, CO</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Courier New">70 442 W-30 Sport Coupe</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3D"Courier New">71 Cutlass Supreme =
SX</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0016_01BE5E14.0AEB4420--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 07:22:16 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: 1969 442 Trunk Molding

There's a guy advertising in JWO who repairs and polishes stainless trim...
His add says:

"Stainless steel moldings restored, dents removed, polished to show quality"

Charles Vincent
421 Morgan Hill Rd.
Hurley, NY 12443
(914) 331-1240
6pm - 10pm Eastern


drc



>   Peter I did that and I got I can't afford prices as high as $500. Thats
why
>I'm  asking if anybody knows a shop that would be able to repair my piece.
>   Rich
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 07:43:52 -0500
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: power club

Man for founding members you guy are a year late. I recieved my founding
membership a year ago.I belive it was 29.95 then, with lots of goddies
for chevy, ford.and mopar now what did i do with the paper work?.
butch  68  442  post

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 08:11:51 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: My Classic Car Episode

In a message dated 99-02-22 04:01:36 EST, you write:

<< I agree, Harry. In the exception of a pristine original LOW mileage car,
 every effort SHOULD be taken to maintain their current status. Afterall,
 these are the cars that will be museum pieces in 50 - 75 years when
 everything is electric powered or whatever alternative power systems are
 employed. I vote yes for those rare examples. Keep up the good work keeping
 that Vaseline baby new Harry.
 
 -----Regards,
 
 Gary J. Couse
 Couse Custom's
 Route-1, Box-615
 Purling, NY 12470 >>

Will do my best...as long as I have another musclecar to drive!Hot Rod Harry
NJ.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 08:50:28 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: Under Bumper Scoops was RE: Re. Roll Call

> HI
> * Mike Siedlik (Barb)
	<snip list of nice vehicles>

> *Should be hearing on the 1968 Ram Air SCOOPS-----CORRECT PLASTIC with
> BRACKETS, still working in the stainless steel moldings. This project is
> not cheap,
> theres alot of trial & errors.  Correct thickness, I can even stand on
> them! This is not ABS Plastic! So stay tuned! 
>                       
>  I'm LOOKING for 1969 SCOOPS for correct Molds  I WILL BUY THEM OR USE
> THEM AND GIVE THE PERSON FIRST SET.     You might have seen the samples at
> the OCA Nationals
>  
	AH HA!!!!!!!  So Mike, this answers my email I had sent you about a
month ago.  Was wondering what happened with the bumper scoops.  I'm still
_very_ interested in a set for my 69 W-31, please keep me posted if
possible.  (csmetana@onexinc.com) Thanks.

	Chris Smetana
	Terre Haute, IN
	http://www.abcs.com/chris/

	1969 W-31
	1969 4-4-2 parts car
	plus others

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 09:01:32 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: Rechroming bumpers...need suggestions!

> Desert Dog is hard to beat.
> 
	BINGO!!!!  He'll be doing my 66 GTO bumpers (whenever I get the
money together and get off my butt)  and the W-31 bumpers (ditto again, but
this cars together and running)  It's $225 or $250.  One is exchange the
other is your core (don't recall which is which)

> Go to 442.com to get his number.
> 
	Yep, check out the parts for sale ads.  Or (708) 409-1040

	for those who were at Nats in Springfield last year, he was there
with bumpers.  I think some people even got tans from the reflection of the
sun off the chrome.  :)

> At 01:29 AM 2/20/99 EST, you wrote:
> >Any good references on rechroming of 71 442 W-30 bumpers?  You get what
> you
> >pay for, so be honest with your quotes and personal experiences!!!  You
> guys
> >are great!
> 
	Chris Smetana
	Terre Haute, IN
	http://www.abcs.com/chris/

	1969 W-31
	1969 4-4-2 parts car
	plus others

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 09:06:35 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Hot Rod Power Club

Yep, got mine about a week ago.  I was very impressed and honored to be
part of an exclusive group of what must be only 200,000 or so Hot Rod
Magazine subscribers.

I didn't even bother to keep the stickers....

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 09:13:36 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: What A Body radiator for a '71 VC?

National Automotive lines has a 4 row modine for this car for  $161 (plus
about $10-15 shipping).

1-800-428-4300
___________

I want to second this endorsement.  I've ordered many parts from NAL,
including a four row radiator for my 69 442.  The items all came within 3
working days.  Prices were very, very competitive.  Note that they carry
many items not listed in their catalog, so call them if you don't see what
you want.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 06:22:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: where can I find headlight fusible links? (reply and a question)

Pretty sure they are in some type of a breaker system. I had a problem
with my Cutlass. I had no fusible link for the primary feed wire. The
one that goes from the battery into the relay and then up to the fuse
block. Anyways, I figured that I would just put in an inline glass
style fuse. Well, that SUCKS!!!! I was driving out to my parents place
one night (a couple of miles south of town) and all of a sudden,
nothing! The engine died, no brake lights/headlights/interior
lights/power steering/nothing! Right on a curve with a sign and
someone coming up behind me doing 55 MPH. I just hit the ditch and
prayed to God that the sign wasn't right there! Everything turned out
well that night but that fuse has been replaced with a circuit
breaker. Anyone know where you could find the fusable link for in
there? All I could find is fusible wire but I never saw how those
worked. I mean, they rate them at a certain amperage, but you would
think that the longer the wire, the smaller the amperage would need to
be to break it?




- ---Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net> wrote:
>
> Still don't think headlights are fused, relay or breaker yes, fused,
mebbe,
> but don't think so, reason, fuse blows at 70mph on twisty two lane
country
> road at night, it's way too exciting to comprehend. Product liability
> insurance attorneys would have a field day. Had mine short out, they
kick
> on, kick off, and so on and so on, enough to get you stopped away.
> Lou
> 
> ----------
> > From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Re: where can i find headlight fuesable links? what do
they look
> like?
> > hmm.. dont think they have fusible links....   try looking at your
fuses.
>  
> > jeremy
> > BIGJERMES@aol.com
> 

==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 07:22:16 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: emails

Hi Dennis,
	it sounds like you were subscribed to the digest list and now you are
subscribed to the "real-time" list.  Here's what I have on the subject:

	All membership requests are to be sent to majordomo and not the list
itself.   Send subscribe
or unsubscribe requests to: majordomo@chebucto.ns.ca

Include ONE of the following as the ONLY text in the body of the
message: 

     subscribe oldsmobile 
     subscribe oldsmobile-digest 
     unsubscribe oldsmobile 
     unsubscribe oldsmobile-digest 

	So I would guess that you send some mail to
mailto:majordomo@chebucto.ns.ca saying unsubscribe oldsmobile and then a
second message to mailto:majordomo@chebucto.ns.ca saying 
subscribe oldsmobile-digest

	If that does not work then please let me know and I'll get a more
definitive (correct) answer for you.

> Dennis Branch wrote:
> 
> I USED TO BE SUBSCRIBED TO THE LIST  AND RE SUBSCRIBED TODAY.  I
> NOTICED I AM GETTING EVERY EMAIL WHERE BEFORE THEY WERE ALL TOGETHER .
> IF THIS IS STILL POSSIBLE PLEASE FIX ME UP LIKE I  HAD IN THE PAST.
> THANKS DENNIS BRANCH SR.

HTH
- -- 
Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 08:28:24 -0600
From: "Johnson, Samuel" <SJohnso6@allstate.com>
Subject: RE: Hot Rod Power Club

So are you going to join?

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca [SMTP:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca]
> Sent:	Monday, February 22, 1999 8:06 AM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca; Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
> Subject:	Re: Hot Rod Power Club
> 
> Yep, got mine about a week ago.  I was very impressed and honored to be
> part of an exclusive group of what must be only 200,000 or so Hot Rod
> Magazine subscribers.
> 
> I didn't even bother to keep the stickers....
> 
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
> 
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 69 442
> 70 W-30
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 06:31:29 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: What is a Weber Side Draft?

Okay, being only 20 years old here, I am confused. What is a Weber
Side Draft? Does that look something like a carb you would find on a
motorcycle or a ATV but in a bigger scale?

> <<< Hummm. Has anyone ever seen a BB Olds with Weber Side draft
carbs mounted.
> This sort of intrigues me if it's ever been done and if any hardware
exists.
>  >>>

==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 09:31:01 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Re: Rechroming bumpers...need suggestions! (Desert Dog)

He's got a web page which I think you can get to from 442.com. He's actually
located in Chicago. He keeps an ad in Hemmings too I think.

I bought bumpers for my '68 442 and, for the cost of $250 each (with core)
and receiving the new bumpers within a week of shipping my old ones, am very
pleased. I'd suggest you at least give him a call.



At 05:14 PM 2/20/99 -0600, you wrote:
>Got an address or phone #? TIA
>Lou
>
>----------
>> From: C. Casteel <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: Rechroming bumpers...need suggestions!
>> Date: Saturday, February 20, 1999 4:46 PM
>> 
>> Desert Dog is hard to beat.
>> 
>> Go to 442.com to get his number.
>> 
>> At 01:29 AM 2/20/99 EST, you wrote:
>> >Any good references on rechroming of 71 442 W-30 bumpers?  You get what
>you
>> >pay for, so be honest with your quotes and personal experiences!!!  You
>guys
>> >are great!
>> >
>> >Thanks, David
>> >
>> >
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 06:34:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Rechroming bumpers...need suggestions!

- ---throckmon@webtv.net wrote:
>
> There is a company called Northstar,I think in Minn..Best chrome I`ve
> ever seen.
> 
============================
In Minn???? Is this Minnesota? Where the heck is this company? I am
still working on getting both of mine rechromed and so far Desert Dog
looks like they will be the ones! But if I can find someone closer to
me.......it'll make me feel a bit better about shipping them out!
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 09:44:58 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: where can I find headlight fusible links? (reply and a question)

I haven't been following this thread, so I apologize if this has already
been answered.

The fusible links are in the main 12 volt feed wires coming off the
threaded stud on the horn relay.  Look for a large rubber cylinder (about
1/2" diameter and about 1 1/4" long) molded over the wire.  This rubber
cover actually covers the splice where the fusible link is joined to the
copper wire of the harness.  Usually, the fusible link is the short section
of wire between the molded cover and the terminal that goes over the stud
on the horn relay (or in older cars, it is just a terminal block).

The fusible link is simply a section of wire which is designed to melt when
a certain current draw is reached.  It works just like one of the glass
fuses, but obviously is larger and can handle a higher current load before
melting.  You can buy replacement links at most auto parts stores.  These
are simply a section of fusible wire with a terminal on one end and an
inline crimp fitting on the other.  Cut off the damaged fusible link on the
copper side of the molded rubber cover (the harness side as opposed to the
terminal side), strip the wire, and crimp on the new link.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 10:21:41 -0500
From: "Robert Collins" <collins@peterboro.net>
Subject: Re: new 71 owner

>.   I hate to say this but I did put a
>hitch on it and we tow our 71 aristocrat travel trailer with it.


Chuck,  I think that is a great idea pulling a 71 trailer with a 71 Olds.
It is like a time warp to the past.  I bet you turn heads when you go into a
campground.
I have read articles where people have spent big bucks looking for and
restoring a trailer that is the same age as there vintage vehicle.  My only
suggestion is to add a transmission cooler.  My experience with motorhomes
is that without that cooler the transmission will cook itself when you least
need it to happen.  If you install it with some thought it will be easily
removable should you want to return the vehicle to it's original condition.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 09:16:39 -0600
From: Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com
Subject: RE: Rechroming bumpers...need suggestions!

Have you checked Desert Dog in Arizona?

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	CPEARLPARK@aol.com [SMTP:CPEARLPARK@aol.com]
> Sent:	Saturday, February 20, 1999 3:55 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	Re: Rechroming bumpers...need suggestions!
> 
> David,
> I'm in the same position. I've gotten one quote for $350 (442 rear),
> but
> another guy says that's for a shaky quality job.  I guess some folks
> grind off
> the old chrome and if not carefully prepped, the grind swirls will
> show
> through the new chrome. On the other hand, I got a quote for $600 to
> chemically strip the chrome, do minor repairs, and then triple plate
> in show
> quality. You do get what you pay for. What level of quality are you
> looking
> for?  To confuse things further, the new Fusick's catalog shows 442
> rear
> bumpers (new) for $345, with a caveat about the finish not being show
> quality.
> Now what do I do?!
> 
> Scott
> 71 442 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 10:11:23 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: What is a Weber Side Draft?

Okay, being only 20 years old here, I am confused. What is a Weber
Side Draft? Does that look something like a carb you would find on a
motorcycle or a ATV but in a bigger scale?
__________

Yep, basically.  Weber carbs are 2 bbl carbs which are noted for being very
adjustable.  The two barrels are spaced to match up closely with the intake
ports on a number of (typically) European engines.  They are usually used
in multiples with one barrel for each intake port.  They come in two basic
configurations, downdraft (air flows downward like in a conventional
Holley/Rochester carb) and sidedraft (air flows sideways, like a motorcyle
carb).  The sidedraft carbs are often seen hanging off the side of inline
four and six cylinder engines.  The individual runner nature of the Weber
setups allowed the user to approach fuel injection levels of performance
back in the pre-computer days.

Sidedraft Webers have been used on V8s when hood clearance is a problem.
I've seen manifolds for big and small Chevy and Ford engines, but not Olds
motors (though I _do_ own a four-Weber downdraft manifold for a big block
Olds - and no, I've never had it on a motor yet).  The sidedraft manifolds
for V8s usually have a crossover configuration, where the runners from the
left bank of cylinders cross over to the right side of the motor, where the
carbs mount over the right side valve cover, and vice versa.

A note to Gary Couse (I think you were the one originally looking for a
sidedraft Olds manifold):  It seems to me that it would not be particularly
difficult to fabricate a workable sidedraft intake manifold, especially
since the distributor does not pass through the intake manifold.  You could
fabricate the base with three flat plate sections of aluminum (valley cover
and two intake flanges).  Weld on the water crossover from an old aluminum
intake (a swap meet special Torker, for example), machine out the intake
port openings, fabricate four carb flange plates, and bend and form
aluminum tubes to fit.  The carb end of the intake runner tubes are
circular, so you only need to form the port end of the runners to match the
rectangular ports.
Now that I think about it, it might even be easier to simply start with an
old Torker, machine out the center (leaving the front and rear water
passages and the intake flanges intact), weld in a plate to close out the
valley, then form the new runners from aluminum tubing.  In the course of
machining off the cast intake runners, you could leave enough of a stub to
enable an easier weld.

'Course, it's always easier to talk about a job than to do it...

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 09:19:44 -0600
From: Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com
Subject: Parts Wanted

Looking for a manifold and 4 bbl carb for a 68 Cutlass "s".

Any Advice?


Anyone??

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 07:33:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: My Cutlass has a problem

- ---Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com> wrote:
>
> Hey guys, this may be a long shot but it happened to me.  Did your
cars
> originally have AC that has eliminated?  If your alternator is on the
> driver's side with nothing on the passanger side (where the AC pump
used
> to be) it can cause problems with there not being a big enough contact
> patch on the water pump pulley to keep the belt from slipping.  I
had this
> problem on a 350 that had the compressor freeze up - I had cut the
belt,
> and all the sudden I had problems with belt squeal.  It didn't seem to
> matter how tight I made them!  Just a thought!
> Todd
> All the toys put away for the winter...

======================
That is a very good thought because my car is suppose to be an AC car
but I never put it on since I only had the compressor and nothing
else. But, if this IS part of the reason why they squeal, why don't
non AC cars do it? They are running the same as I am right now. I
think that it is the flex fan, but I was afraid of putting on a clutch
fan. Mine originally had a clutch fan on it and it seemed to work
fine. Nothing loose and it did freewheel. But, my poor 350 would cook
to temps of 290 to 300 with a 160 thermostat! Too hot for me since
whenever I would shut it off, it would puke anti-freeze out of the
overflow spout.....BIG TIME!!! So much in fact that the first time it
happened, I didn't have an overflow tank. It shot from the small
nossle all the way to the firewall hard enough to splash antifreeze up
my windshield! Switched to the flex fan and it stays at a cool 165
degrees even on the hottest days.
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 09:26:37 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Parts Wanted

Mickey,

You could go aftermarket. (Of course you could go original too.) 
Afermarket is sure a lot easier: Jegs: Edelbrock "performer" manifold 
plus performer carb is less then $500, brand new and works great. I don't 
know how much an original setup goes for. Hope this gives you an idea at 
least from the aftermarket side.  

Regards, George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

On Mon, 22 Feb 1999 Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com wrote:

> Looking for a manifold and 4 bbl carb for a 68 Cutlass "s".
> 
> Any Advice?
> 
> 
> Anyone??
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 09:28:58 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Carb Spacer, Status (fwd)

Hi Listers, 

Well, sometimes odd things happen. How did this post from more than a 
month ago get on the list again??? Well, please ignore it, I already got 
all the answers. Thanx.

Regards, George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Date: Tue, 19 Jan 1999 09:04:54 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
To: OldsML <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Carb Spacer, Status


Hi Listers,

long time no mail... well yesterday I finally took the motor out the 
living room! It had it fully assembled and there is only one thing I 
learned from this: 
Do not assemble the whole engine at a place where you can't get it with 
the crane!!! Well, I ended up building a wooden ramp to the outside of 
the house to grab it there with the crane... How much does a 350 weigh 
with heads and everything on? 

I have two questions:

- - Will a carb spacer help to get a little more response in the lower rpm 
  range when used with a single plane intake (holley dominator) like mine?

- - Where can you get those radiator rubber spacers??? (two on top and two 
  on the bottom of the radiaotor.)

So long, 
George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 10:50:47 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: My Cutlass has a problem

Sounds like you had a bad fan clutch before. The reason non-ac cars did not
have the same belt squeal problem is because the I believe (though I have
been wrong on many an occasion) that the alternator was mounted on the
passenger's side on non-ac cars. Someone will be quick to correct me if I'm
wrong.


- -----Original Message-----

>That is a very good thought because my car is suppose to be an AC car
>but I never put it on since I only had the compressor and nothing
>else. But, if this IS part of the reason why they squeal, why don't
>non AC cars do it? They are running the same as I am right now. I
>think that it is the flex fan, but I was afraid of putting on a clutch
>fan. Mine originally had a clutch fan on it and it seemed to work
>fine. Nothing loose and it did freewheel. But, my poor 350 would cook
>to temps of 290 to 300 with a 160 thermostat! Too hot for me since
>whenever I would shut it off, it would puke anti-freeze out of the
>overflow spout.....BIG TIME!!! So much in fact that the first time it
>happened, I didn't have an overflow tank. It shot from the small
>nossle all the way to the firewall hard enough to splash antifreeze up
>my windshield! Switched to the flex fan and it stays at a cool 165
>degrees even on the hottest days.
>==
>Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
>rockman20@yahoo.com
>1986 Honda Accord DX
>1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
>1981 John Deer Snowmobile
>197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
>1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
>_________________________________________________________
>DO YOU YAHOO!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 07:54:40 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Differential Oil

- ---MrExMt@aol.com wrote:
>
> Mick
> use your 3/8 ratchet, put an extension on it & it will fit the
square. To
> refil I put a 8 inch piece of hose that will fit the fill hole &
tape it to
> the bottle of oil. Just put it in the hole & tip it up to fill. Also
I jack up
> the rear pass. side of the car for more clearance.
> Good luck!
> LEIGH TENENHOLTZ
> '68 Cutlass S Convert.
> 
===========================
Or, find someone with the rear end lube pump and have them pump in the
lube. 
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 10:56:38 -0500
From: "Gary Couse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: What is a Weber Side Draft?

Or maybe I could Persuade you some how to sell me the one you have. Nope,
didn't think so! You could give me some info on it's origin and a lead to
it's manufacturer. I was given contact for a  mechanic that has background
creating Weber setups. Alas, he hasn't contacted yet and it's unknown if the
contact info is still current. I'm still hopeful. You do raise an interest
in converting something off the shelf. Will hold out a little longer in
hopes of finding ready made.     Gary.....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's
Route-1, Box-615
Purling, NY 12470

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of
> Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
> Sent: Monday, February 22, 1999 10:11 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: What is a Weber Side Draft?
>
>
> Okay, being only 20 years old here, I am confused. What is a Weber
> Side Draft? Does that look something like a carb you would find on a
> motorcycle or a ATV but in a bigger scale?
> __________
>
> Yep, basically.  Weber carbs are 2 bbl carbs which are noted for
> being very
> adjustable.  The two barrels are spaced to match up closely with
> the intake
> ports on a number of (typically) European engines.  They are usually used
> in multiples with one barrel for each intake port.  They come in two basic
> configurations, downdraft (air flows downward like in a conventional
> Holley/Rochester carb) and sidedraft (air flows sideways, like a motorcyle
> carb).  The sidedraft carbs are often seen hanging off the side of inline
> four and six cylinder engines.  The individual runner nature of the Weber
> setups allowed the user to approach fuel injection levels of performance
> back in the pre-computer days.
>
> Sidedraft Webers have been used on V8s when hood clearance is a problem.
> I've seen manifolds for big and small Chevy and Ford engines, but not Olds
> motors (though I _do_ own a four-Weber downdraft manifold for a big block
> Olds - and no, I've never had it on a motor yet).  The sidedraft manifolds
> for V8s usually have a crossover configuration, where the runners from the
> left bank of cylinders cross over to the right side of the motor,
> where the
> carbs mount over the right side valve cover, and vice versa.
>
> A note to Gary Couse (I think you were the one originally looking for a
> sidedraft Olds manifold):  It seems to me that it would not be
> particularly
> difficult to fabricate a workable sidedraft intake manifold, especially
> since the distributor does not pass through the intake manifold.
> You could
> fabricate the base with three flat plate sections of aluminum
> (valley cover
> and two intake flanges).  Weld on the water crossover from an old aluminum
> intake (a swap meet special Torker, for example), machine out the intake
> port openings, fabricate four carb flange plates, and bend and form
> aluminum tubes to fit.  The carb end of the intake runner tubes are
> circular, so you only need to form the port end of the runners to
> match the
> rectangular ports.
> Now that I think about it, it might even be easier to simply start with an
> old Torker, machine out the center (leaving the front and rear water
> passages and the intake flanges intact), weld in a plate to close out the
> valley, then form the new runners from aluminum tubing.  In the course of
> machining off the cast intake runners, you could leave enough of a stub to
> enable an easier weld.
>
> 'Course, it's always easier to talk about a job than to do it...
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 69 442
> 70 W-30
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 10:11:58 -0600
From: cdemps@lsumc.edu (Dempsey, Charles)
Subject: Roll call.

OK. Here goes;

Charles Dempsey
Analytical Chemist, LSU Medical Center, Shreveport
Age 46
Married, two children six and four

In order of seniority;
1956 Super 88
1959 Vauxhall (parting out)
1963 LeSabre
1971 Caprice (parting out)
1971 Vista Cruiser (currently under the knife)
1973 H/O (it's next)
1973 Triumph Stag (for sale)
1976 Cutlass Supreme (daily driver)
1981 Cavalier (going away soon I hope)
1984 Mustang SVO (for sale)
1986 Cutlass Supreme Brougham (Her daily driver)
1988 F-250 4X4 diesel

My goal is to get rid of all the non-Olds cars (but not the F-250) this
spring. I've got my eye on a beautiful ice blue '68 Toronado.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 08:03:52 PST
From: "adam olson" <olson_adam@hotmail.com>
Subject: ID's needed

Hey list. A couple of quick questions. I purchased a 65 VC and the guy I 
bought it from said it had the 350 rocket and I know that the 350 did 
not come out until about 68. Here are the numbers that I got off of the 
passenger side cylinder head T66 3722. Does anyone know what size engine 
this is? I was also told by a local transmission shop that the jetaway 
was discontinued in 64. That the transmission in my car is a turbo 300. 
This is the first time I have heard about this transmission. Can anyone 
clear this up for me the numbers off of the trans are 65 MJ 209. Any 
help you guys can offer will be greatly appreciated.
Adam Olsom
65 Vista Cruiser

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 10:00:15 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: new 71 owner

Chuck, 

you can go to Barnes and Noble or any other big bookstore. They should 
have a magazine called: Old Cars Price Guide. You look up your car there 
and take into account its condition. The condition (what is a #1 #2 etc.) 
is explained in the preface of the magazine. That will give you a fairly 
good idea. 

BTW: I second all the posts that you should keep the car original (even 
the exhaust, dual exhaust does not do much hp!). I really would suggest 
you get a not so nice cutlass s or 442 to mess with if you want to hopp 
an olds up. Keep grandmas car or sell it to someone who keeps it in its 
original shape. 

Regards, George
- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

On Sun, 21 Feb 1999, chuck manning wrote:

> I appreciate the advice on "grandma's" car and the more I think about it the
> smarter it seems to keep it in its original condition.  But there is a few
> things I NEED to do.  The car needs duel exhaust and at least some rally
> wheels.  What I would like to know is how much the car is worth.  Now I can
> look in the traders and classified to get an idea but those cars are pretty
> hammered.  The only thing on this car is it has some rust in the lower
> quarter panels and a couple of dings.   I hate to say this but I did put a
> hitch on it and we tow our 71 aristocrat travel trailer with it.
>     I would like to know the value of this car (or approximate value)  any
> info would be helpful.  thanks......   chuck
> 
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 08:12:08 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: where can I find headlight fusible links? (reply and a  question)

> The fusible link is simply a section of wire which is designed to
melt when
> a certain current draw is reached.  It works just like one of the
glass
> fuses, but obviously is larger and can handle a higher current load
before
> melting.  You can buy replacement links at most auto parts stores. 
These
> are simply a section of fusible wire with a terminal on one end and an
> inline crimp fitting on the other.  Cut off the damaged fusible link
on the
> copper side of the molded rubber cover (the harness side as opposed
to the
> terminal side), strip the wire, and crimp on the new link.
======================

The only thing that made me cautious was the fact that these aren't
normal fusable links. I have seen the factory's with that small,
almost capacitor, looking cylinder on them. These look like normal
wire and if someone were to not read the SMALL print on the wire they
would mistake for usual wire. 
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 11:18:49 -0500
From: Darren King <KingD@sx.com>
Subject: 69 442...

Someone near me is selling a 69 442 that I have a major hard-on
for.  It has a 455 engine in it.  I know from the FAQ that no 455 
were in 69 442's.  What king of stuff should I be looking for?   It
has a Edelbrock Torker intake and a holley carb on it but I don't 
know much else about it other than it has an aftermarket cam
in it.

The body (dark red) is in good shape and the interior is complete
but rough.

He wants 6500 for it but I found out I could bet it for 5000...these
are Canadian bucks.

What should I be watching out for...I've been burned buying used
cars before.

Darren King

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 08:16:02 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: where can I find headlight fusible links? (reply and a  question)

Almost forgot to mention that no one could tell me what size that wire
should be! What amperage I mean. The local shop that deals primarily
in wiring cars just said to take some fuse wire of the same gauge and
cut it to the length of the old link and then replace. Easier said
then done in my case since I have no idea how long that wire was since
it wasn't there to begin with!
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 08:17:04 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re: Rechroming bumpers...need suggestions!

>Date: Sat, 20 Feb 1999 16:55:22 EST
>From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
>Subject: Re: Rechroming bumpers...need suggestions!

>David,
>I'm in the same position. I've gotten one quote for $350 (442 rear), but
>another guy says that's for a shaky quality job.  I guess some folks grind
off
>the old chrome and if not carefully prepped, the grind swirls will show
>through the new chrome. On the other hand, I got a quote for $600 to
>chemically strip the chrome, do minor repairs, and then triple plate in
show
>quality. You do get what you pay for. What level of quality are you looking
>for?  To confuse things further, the new Fusick's catalog shows 442 rear
>bumpers (new) for $345, with a caveat about the finish not being show
quality.
>Now what do I do?!

I bought a '70 Cutout rear bumper for my car from Year One back in '92.  It
looked great.  I haven't looked at it recently since the car has a cover on
it, but I was VERY satisfied with what I received.

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 11:27:08 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Re: 69 442...

Well, 1st off, unless you're looking at a H/O, that engine's not original.
And since the car's dark red, being a H/O is out most likely.

You say the body is in good shape. How good? I'd really look out for rust
before I'd pay $5k for a non matching car. In my opinion, if the car needs
paint whatsoever, that's too much, considering the interior needs work too. 

Just my opinion of course...

At 11:18 AM 2/22/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Someone near me is selling a 69 442 that I have a major hard-on
>for.  It has a 455 engine in it.  I know from the FAQ that no 455 
>were in 69 442's.  What king of stuff should I be looking for?   It
>has a Edelbrock Torker intake and a holley carb on it but I don't 
>know much else about it other than it has an aftermarket cam
>in it.
>
>The body (dark red) is in good shape and the interior is complete
>but rough.
>
>He wants 6500 for it but I found out I could bet it for 5000...these
>are Canadian bucks.
>
>What should I be watching out for...I've been burned buying used
>cars before.
>
>Darren King
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 11:28:16 EST
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: 1965 VC was: ID's needed

In a message dated 99-02-22 11:05:48 EST, you write:

>  Here are the numbers that I got off of the 
>  passenger side cylinder head T66 3722. Does anyone know what size engine 
>  this is? I was also told by a local transmission shop that the jetaway 
>  was discontinued in 64. That the transmission in my car is a turbo 300. 
>  This is the first time I have heard about this transmission. Can anyone 
>  clear this up for me the numbers off of the trans are 65 MJ 209.

Hi Adam!
Dunno ~exactly~ what options were for the VC.
The motors that went into the 1965 cars were a Buick V6 (dist in front), the
330, 400, and 425.
For the last three there is a number that you do not mention that is an easy
"tell".
As you provide a tranny #, you must have a relatively high degree of access to
the drivetrain where "for sale" cars are concerned.

Good.

Get some engine cleaner, whatever solvent you prefer, a scraper or wire brush
and a rag. You are goin' # huntin!

1. Stand at the middle of the bumper facing the car.

2. Lean over the front of the engine.

3. See where the upper rad hose goes into the intake?
Just to the front of that is the edge of the intake, where it meets the front
of the block. There should be a 1" shelf behind the water pump, the oil fill
tube sticks out from your left of this divided "shelf". It is also why the
numbers are usually obscured.
The numbers you want are on the right side of that shelf. They are raised from
the block on the ledge bottom, so scrape off all that oily sludge.

4. A six digit # with a larger number or big letter following.

5. post # to list.

or the easier fix!

Use a tape measure!
Intake 12" accross= 330. 14" = 400 or 425 cid!

(uh, tell the guy it is a small block. No need to up the price now!)

Am going to send you privately a .JPG of what the #'s on my 1965 Dynamic 88
look like.

Good Luck!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 11:33:18 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: Rechroming bumpers...need suggestions!

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com [SMTP:Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com]
> Sent:	Monday, February 22, 1999 10:17 AM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	RE: Rechroming bumpers...need suggestions!
> 
> Have you checked Desert Dog in Arizona?
> 
Actually, Bob Cline is in Westchester, IL.  He runs Desert Dog Auto Parts.
I've meet him several times, been to his house several times, even been to
his warehouse a couple times.  Bought my W-31 and 4-4-2 from him along with
several other misc parts.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris


1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 11:33:12 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: My Cutlass has a problem

The reason non-ac cars did not
have the same belt squeal problem is because the I believe (though I have
been wrong on many an occasion) that the alternator was mounted on the
passenger's side on non-ac cars.
_______

You are exactly correct, Ed.  The belt configurations for various accessory
combinations tried to balance the belt forces, not only for proper belt
contact patch, but also to even out loads on the water pump.  For example,
non-A/C cars had the alt and PS pump on opposite sides of the motor, to
even out the side load on the front bearing of the water pump.  With A/C,
the compressor is opposite the alternator/PS pump, again to even out loads
in additon to providing underhood room.  Deleting the A/C belt without
moving the alternator to the other side could lead to premature water pump
failure.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 08:45:32 -0800 (PST)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: 72 Cutlass Parts FS

  A few weeks ago, I met a guy at a swap meet who has
a bunch of assorted parts for 1970-72 cutlass for sale.  
I bought a few parts, and here's a list of what he has.
He's selling this stuff for real cheap, as it's been 
sitting in his garage wasting space, so he'll take best offer
on most of this stuff.  Anyway, I don't know this guy(only met 
him that one time) but he seemed nice so I'm doing him this favor.
I take NO responsibility for any problems relating to the 
purchase/shipping of any of these parts, I'm just passing on 
information.  Any requests or offers please call 
Dan Butler at (413)569-1443.  
I've seen most of these parts, and from what I saw, they were all 
in good condition. These parts are off of a 72 cutlass, but some/most 
will work on 70-71 as well.  Also, all interior pieces are black. Any
part
with a price next to it is what he's asking for those parts.  
Anyway, here's the list.  

Dash-good shape $125
2 headlight bezels
fuse block
speedo-floorshift model
seatbelts- rears?
interior door panels- decent shape-slightly weathered
rear seat
interior rear side panels
A-pillar mouldings
arm rests
Sun visors
lower dash piece
inside door handles-2
window cranks 
dash vents
all 4 side marker lamps (lenses) 2 yellow, 2 red
2 reverse lenses + gaskets
3 complete rear taillight lenses (inners,outers, and gaskets) 
            1 only inner w/gasket
2 glove box doors 1 black (cutlass) 1 woodgrain(supreme)
cigarette lighter
dome light 
misc. wire pigtails and sockets
2 cutlass fender scripts?
1 4bbl intake- minor surface rust- and all switches/linkage etc. 
       (no carb) stamp#410446  $20
1 lock set- 2doors and trunk w/keys
windshield washer jug
wiper arms and transmission

once again, if you are interested in any of these parts call
  Dan Butler (413)569-1443 and give him an offer, He just wants to get
rid of the stuff, so he's selling cheap.  Also, I may have missed
sometnig
in the list, so if there's someting you're looking for and you don't 
see it, call him up and ask him if he has it.

==

     Stefan
     1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
     70Cutlass@Beer.com

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 08:47:42 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 69 442...

- ---"C. Casteel" <earthsci@pop.usit.net> wrote:
>
> Well, 1st off, unless you're looking at a H/O, that engine's not
original.
> And since the car's dark red, being a H/O is out most likely.
> 
> You say the body is in good shape. How good? I'd really look out for
rust
> before I'd pay $5k for a non matching car. In my opinion, if the car
needs
> paint whatsoever, that's too much, considering the interior needs
work too. 
> 
> Just my opinion of course...
===========================
I don't think it's too bad considering he is talking Canadian money!
Hell, I spent 1500 American for my car! The car looked like hell when
I first got it!
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 11:43:46 EST
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: BB Webber intake? was: What is a Weber Side Draft?

Hey!

No fair holding out on us!

A uncommon (rare?) BB intake?
(((Edelbrock makes 3x2's for Ch*tty cars! and whadda us BBer's get? a
Performer??? An O4B or some such that are discontinued? Gee, thanks.
Offenhauser was WAY more prolific for Olds !))

Who makes it?
What's it look like?
Where didja get it?
Whadya fork over to get it?
Is the Weber side-draft a 3 or 4 bolt carb?
(mighta seen one.....)

If this is too many questions, then you should not be Emailing on company time
anyway!
(heh!)   :-)}

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 11:51:07 EST
From: OldsRokkit@aol.com
Subject: Cutlass X-treme (was: Re: Emblem jpg's - Who needs an Edge?)

In a message dated 2/22/99, 2:43:42 AM, oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca writes:

<<This was for the 1980 Cutlass Edge package that gave the stainless strip
across
the roof and C-pillars.  Don't know much more about 'em than that.  Apparantly
a
dealer-installed package, as far as I know, 1980 only.>>

I believe this was a rare package called "Cutlass X-Treme", right?


- -Drew in Windy Western Kansas-

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 11:51:24 EST
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: belt strain was: My Cutlass has a problem

Karl sub's to Olds list.

Two (or more) years later, still learning stuff!

<< With A/C,  the compressor is opposite the alternator/PS pump, again to even
out loads  in additon to providing underhood room.  Deleting the A/C belt
without moving the alternator to the other side could lead to premature water
pump failure. >>

Makes perfect sense.
A 1965 PS pump has a rigid bracket (non-adjustable).

If no A/C, then how tight should the alt belt be for proper balance?

Also, come to think of it, 1965 cars seen with A/C had alt on same side
(passenger).

But then, 1965 was a learning year for Oldsmobile.

1966: no brushed aluminum dashboard and less internal and winshield wiper
chrome.
(per Standard Catalog of Oldsmobile)

Karl needs sunglasses.

Badly.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1797
*********************************

