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cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1721


oldsmobile-digest      Sunday, January 17 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1721



Re: 394 in a 79 Cut;lass???
1987 Olds 307 in a Buick Regal
Re: Towing
Re: Towing
Re: 384 in a 79 Cut;lass???
Re: 384 in a 79 Cut;lass???
Re: 9000 rpm Aurora/Northstar
Re: driver side window off track
Re: Tips for Headliner installation
Roaring heater core
Re: Tips for Headliner installation
Re: 9000 rpm Aurora/Northstar
Fw: Towing
Re: 9000 rpm Aurora/Northstar
Fw: Towing
Re: Towing
sway bars
442 window
Re: Where have all the Rally Packs gone?
Re: Ralley Pac Question
Re: 9000 rpm Aurora/Northstar
Re: Tips for Headliner installation
Re: 384 in a 79 Cut;lass???
Re: Where have all the Rally Packs gone?
UNBOUNCE: 1987 Olds 307 in a Buick Regal
Re: UNBOUNCE: 1987 Olds 307 in a Buick Regal
Re: driver side window off track
Re: (no subject)
Re: You're kidding, right
F-41/sway bars
Crane Rocker Arms/pedestals for SBO
Re: Roaring heater core
Re: Tips for Headliner installation
Re: driver side window off track
F41 indication
Re: F41 indication
Re: Ralley Pac Question
Boring Web Ring
RE: F41 indication
Re: Th200-R4 in Chevy Truck LONG
Re: Th200-R4 in Chevy Truck LONG
Re: Interior Question
Re: UNBOUNCE: 1987 Olds 307 in a Buick Regal
403 rebuild/SB Olds intake...
Re: 403 rebuild/SB Olds intake...
Re: Towing
Re: Towing
Re: Tips for Headliner installation
HEI Swap.  Real Life Benefits?
Re: Centerforce - clutches and flywheels
Re: 403 rebuild/SB Olds intake...
Re: Ralley Pac Question
Test Delete
Re: HEI Swap.  Real Life Benefits?
Re: F-41/sway bars
Re: Th200-R4 in Chevy Truck LONG
My Birthday Present
Re: HEI Swap.  Real Life Benefits?
RE: My Birthday Present
RE: My Birthday Present
Spotted: 67 442 FS

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 19:08:34 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: 394 in a 79 Cut;lass???

Not a debored 455, 39deg valve angle vrs the 45deg valve angle in the 455. you
may be able to fine some performance mods, but I'd just go with a 425/455
because parts are very easy to come by. 
Kelly
1966 Cutlass (330, 4bbl, 2spd tranny :(
http://www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 99 17:04:01 +0000
From: deckcorp@fiberia.com
Subject: 1987 Olds 307 in a Buick Regal

I own a 1987 Buick Regal w/ a 307 Olds v-8 (4bbl).  I have spent numerous 
hours trying to
find information about upgrading my engine but with absolutely no success, 
(everyone has
Chevy's).  The body is of course a G-Body with room to spare under the hood.  
A few
questions that I have concerning replacing the engine are:

1. How large could I go (realisticly) without having to rip apart my car.  I 
found a
section on the engine section of 
http://www.en.com/users/thall/olds/ofeng.htm#Engines 1964
- - 1990 which gives the parts needed to make it into a HO 307, but can I put 
an Olds 350
into my G-Body without changing the mounts and having to drill holes, etc.

2. Will there be a large performance difference if I changed the engine to a 
307 HO?? or
is it just a waste of time.

3. Any people that have a great understanding of the above processes would be 
a great
help.  I am desparate for information as my bank account grows and I can't 
spend any money
on the car.

I appreciate and help you can give me.

Thankyou,
Christopher Decker

***********************************************************
*  Get your FREE e-mail and FREE web site at FIBERIA      *
*  http://www.fiberia.com                                 *
***********************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 19:07:42 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Towing

>I love to see an older car pulling trailers. With a family trucks are not
>practical for the long trips to the coast with the boat in tow. 

For those of you with Delta's as tow vehicles here's a funny thought (to
me at least).  If you have the reciever type hitch get one of those 
propellers that spin as you go down the road.  Ultimate irony and you
could honestly say you have a Land Yacht!

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 20:14:16 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: Towing

I'm going to tow our 18' Donzi Classic with my 1966 Cutlass, I shouldn't have
any problems, should I? The boat is like 3500lbs with trailer (42gal gas tank
and a 351 ford...hehe, it hauls some major ass, in like 3 foot sweels, I love
the 24deg deep v hull...http://www.donzimarine.com, i'll quit advertising),
but I shouldnt have any problem, should i? 3.73 Posi rear, 330, 4bbl, It
should be fine, and oh Mike, I'm getting one of them propeller thingies :)
Kelly Erickson
1966 Cutlass
Http://www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 20:21:52 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 384 in a 79 Cut;lass???

 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 20:23:48 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 384 in a 79 Cut;lass???

Besides not being the same as the later 400-455 , the motor mount location
would not even be close...go with the 400-455...Hot Rod Harry from NJ>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 18:23:58 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: 9000 rpm Aurora/Northstar

Any Idea on how much a northstar would cost?  I can't seem to find anyone
her in phx. that can tell me.  I want to put one in my wives 70 chevelle
LP.
nurelic@primenet.com
- -----Original Message-----
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, January 16, 1999 1:50 AM
Subject: 9000 rpm Aurora/Northstar


>
>> After driving a 97 Cadillac STS (300 hp NorthStar), and watching in rev
at
>> 7100 rpm, and hold it without ANY signs of complaint
>
>Yes, I can attest to that.  I taped an incedent involving the original (or
one
>of the original) Northstar prototypes, involving a WOT run, lasting as long
as
>the engine allowed.  It popped up around 6500 where the rev-limiter kicked
in,
>and was held there, no load, no radiator, on the stand, for more than half
an
>hour, when the water hose popped (it just connected in and out of water
pump,
>nothing fancy.)  It knocked a sensor out, and stalled the motor.  Plugged
it
>back in and ran it wide open for about another 45 minutes.  It finally died
when
>the crank sensor had melted and could no longer accurately detect crank
>revolutions.  Bearings were heated up pretty good, oil stunk like hell, but
>there was no noticable scoring, and everything was still free.  We figured
a new
>set of bearings would have allowed another 100K on that motor...  Very
>impressive, indeed.
>
>Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
>mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
>http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
>http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
>     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
>http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
>http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 18:31:34 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: driver side window off track

I have the same problem with my el camino.  I'm working on a fix for it now.
I have already rebuilt the door handle mech.. but it still need to be able
to take up the slack in the rest of the mech..

anyone else have a thought on this?

LP.
nurelic@primnet.com

- -----Original Message-----
From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, January 16, 1999 1:22 PM
Subject: driver side window off track


>Hello to all!!!
>
>
>Any know how on the list to help me fix my drivers side door and window?
The
>window is very hard to roll up and seems to see-saw inside the car door.
>Also the inside door handle no longer will open the door. I expect
something
>inside disconnected. Am i right???
>
>AAron
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 20:36:23 EST
From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Subject: Re: Tips for Headliner installation

CUTLASS442@aol.com writes:
>They come right 
>out of the
>holes and then you can unclip them from the clips.

Before you take the rods out of the holes, make sure to note which hole
the rod was in!  There's usually three holes it can go into on either
end.  Also be sure to keep the rods in order; number them from one to
five (or however many rods you have), and put them back in the same
order.

Dave Paulison       1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida   1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 20:48:01 -0800
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Roaring heater core

What's up with this ?  When the revs come up in my '70 442 there is a
roaring noise that seems to come from around the area of the trans.  A
friend of mine has a '69 442.  His makes the same noise.  He said it began
when he replaced the heater core.  Expressing incredulity, I clamped off one
of the heater hoses with a vise-grip.  Clamp on, no noise.  Clamp off,
noise.  Has anyone had an experience like this, or have any info about this
?  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 20:57:16 EST
From: Lou0118@aol.com
Subject: Re: Tips for Headliner installation

In a message dated 1/16/99 3:48:11 AM Eastern Standard Time,
csimpson@ucalgary.ca writes:

<< This didn't work for me:
 In order to determine where to cut the dome light hole my
 father-in-law measured the width of the liner and divided it in 2 to
 determine the center.  When we went to install the liner the cut
 didn't seem to be in the correct place.  Father-in-law gets a funny
 look on his face and asks "54 divided by 2 is 22 isn't it" ahhhh
 sh*****t!  Nice straight 3" cut in the brand new headliner:(
  >>

Remember the old carpenters rule - "Measure Twice - Cut Once"

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 20:51:15 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: 9000 rpm Aurora/Northstar

Best bet would be to get a complete car that has been totalled.  This
would allow you to take all the wiring and sensors and examine thier
locations and layout.  This won't be cheap but is about the only way to
do it unless you can find someone to make a custom harness.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

>Any Idea on how much a northstar would cost?  I can't seem to find anyone
>her in phx. that can tell me.  I want to put one in my wives 70 chevelle
>LP.
>nurelic@primenet.com
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Date: Saturday, January 16, 1999 1:50 AM
>Subject: 9000 rpm Aurora/Northstar
>
>
>>
>>> After driving a 97 Cadillac STS (300 hp NorthStar), and watching in rev
>at
>>> 7100 rpm, and hold it without ANY signs of complaint
>>
>>Yes, I can attest to that.  I taped an incedent involving the original (or
>one
>>of the original) Northstar prototypes, involving a WOT run, lasting as
long
>as
>>the engine allowed.  It popped up around 6500 where the rev-limiter kicked
>in,
>>and was held there, no load, no radiator, on the stand, for more than half
>an
>>hour, when the water hose popped (it just connected in and out of water
>pump,
>>nothing fancy.)  It knocked a sensor out, and stalled the motor.  Plugged
>it
>>back in and ran it wide open for about another 45 minutes.  It finally
died
>when
>>the crank sensor had melted and could no longer accurately detect crank
>>revolutions.  Bearings were heated up pretty good, oil stunk like hell,
but
>>there was no noticable scoring, and everything was still free.  We figured
>a new
>>set of bearings would have allowed another 100K on that motor...  Very
>>impressive, indeed.
>>
>>Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
>>mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
>>http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
>>http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
>>     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
>>http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
>>http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|
>>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 21:50:57 -0500
From: Jonathan Hart <jehart@RTelco.Net>
Subject: Fw: Towing

- -----Original Message-----
From: mbloomer <mbloomer@gateway.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, January 16, 1999 8:10 PM
Subject: Re: Towing


>
>>I love to see an older car pulling trailers. With a family trucks are not
>>practical for the long trips to the coast with the boat in tow. 
>
>For those of you with Delta's as tow vehicles here's a funny thought (to
>me at least).  If you have the reciever type hitch get one of those 
>propellers that spin as you go down the road.  Ultimate irony and you
>could honestly say you have a Land Yacht!
>
>Mike B
>mbloomer@gateway.net
>ICQ# 19113713
>http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/
>
>One thing about a land yacht--little skateboards get out of their way!!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 21:56:55 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: 9000 rpm Aurora/Northstar

Is there anyway to get the Aurora's injection system to fit on say a regular
small block olds?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 22:00:26 -0500
From: Jonathan Hart <jehart@RTelco.Net>
Subject: Fw: Towing

- -----Original Message-----
From: Gutlass66@aol.com <Gutlass66@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, January 16, 1999 8:15 PM
Subject: Re: Towing


>I'm going to tow our 18' Donzi Classic with my 1966 Cutlass, I shouldn't
have
>any problems, should I? The boat is like 3500lbs with trailer (42gal gas
tank
>and a 351 ford...hehe, it hauls some major ass, in like 3 foot sweels, I
love
>the 24deg deep v hull...http://www.donzimarine.com, i'll quit advertising),
>but I shouldnt have any problem, should i? 3.73 Posi rear, 330, 4bbl, It
>should be fine, and oh Mike, I'm getting one of them propeller thingies :)
>Kelly Erickson
>1966 Cutlass
>Http://www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z

Do you have trailer brakes? Rear helpers on the springs or bags like Air
Lifts for coil springs or a Helhwig Air Suspension kit for leaf springs to
help stop rear end bounce and sway. Add a transmission cooler and change the
transmission fluid. Check to make sure the fan clutch is working properly
and the cooling system is clean and free flowing. If anything can happen it
will happen towing.

Jon Hart

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 20:08:57 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Towing

Haven't been following this all that closely, but for those interested, check
out the top picture on this page:

http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/mycars.htm

Towed 150 miles like that, with no problems (aside from the Rockit's light oil
consumption :)  The 425 had no troubles whatsoever doing it.  You could feel 
the
car behind ya, but not bad at all.  Handled well.  When I put the 455 in there,
I may or may not try towing the Toro...  That'll be the ultimate test.  I'm
rather suprised the ~trailer~ can hold it :o

81 Cutlass, 425 Olds, TH350 w/cooler, 3.23 posi, receiver hitch w/equalizer
setup, and no trailer brakes yet.  (Controller's been in the trunk for about a
year and a half.....   With the 455, I'll be doing more highway towing over the
summer (hopefully) so can report more accurately then.  Hopefully.... 
- -- 

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 22:18:49 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: sway bars

Hi all,

I have just about decided to go ahead and put the F41 package on my 86
CSB.  I found a donor car with a build sheet that said F$1, and all the
parts were there.  
Question:  If I were to change my front sway bar, will there be a
problem with them bolting up to the frame?  I ask because the bigger
sway bar looks so much bigger that it would seem to have an affect on
the lineup of the bolts.  Anyone done this from a junkyard car?  Also,
is there any way to tell the reliability or general condition of a
steering box while it is still in a junkyard car, any not-so-obvious
defects that I may need to look for?  
TIA
Brian.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 19:23:02 -0800
From: Lance <lance@bohle.com>
Subject: 442 window

i'm looking for a passenger-side vent window(the small triangle window)
for my 70' olds 442.  someone broke my window trying to steal a cheap
speaker i had sitting on the floor.
if anyone can help i'd really appreciate it

thanks
lance

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 22:18:26 EST
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: Where have all the Rally Packs gone?

In a message dated 1/16/99 12:52:42 PM Eastern Standard Time,
docbob@caninet.com writes:

<< I would have to guess there are people who are stock piling certain OLDS
 parts.  Maybe to help drive up the value, maybe to help create a bigger
 demand.  But I do know of people who are doing similar things with other
 parts, so it wouldn't amaze me if someone is doing it with Rallye Packs.
 A few years ago i had 8 sets, the average price I would find them for was
 around $200 a set.  Now I can't find them and if I do I have to pay close
 to $450 a set. >>

The Rally Pac for my 71 4-4-2 was all I wanted for Christmas, and thanks to my
wonderful wife, I got what I wanted.  While searching, she actually found two
guys who had them available (she's a professional buyer by trade). One had
several.  I ended up getting just the flanking gauges (clock/tach, and
oil/temp/etc) as my speedo is in great shape.  The stockpile theory may be
accurate as the cost was in the $600 range, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do,
depending on your impulsiveness, I guess (and your wife's support of the
hobby, right?).  I can refer you to the guys we found if you want to e-mail
off the list.  I'm not sure what the proper ettiquette (sp?) is on the list,
but these guys are not big parts businesses and I can't be sure they'd want
their names all over the place....then again, they may appreciate it.

Scott

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 22:20:16 EST
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: Ralley Pac Question

Chris, I have a set of instructions somewhere. I'll try to find them and get
back to you...

Scott
71 4-4-2 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 20:21:03 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: 9000 rpm Aurora/Northstar

for custom injector work and ideas contact www.maxrev.com this guy can fuel
inject or turbo anything.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gutlass66@aol.com <Gutlass66@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, January 16, 1999 7:57 PM
Subject: Re: 9000 rpm Aurora/Northstar


>Is there anyway to get the Aurora's injection system to fit on say a
regular
>small block olds?
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 23:27:03 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Tips for Headliner installation

On Sat, 16 Jan 1999 Lou0118@aol.com wrote:
> Remember the old carpenters rule - "Measure Twice - Cut Once"

Or the one that applies to me when I'm doing carpentry... "measure once,
cut and curse a bunch of times..." 

:)

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 22:20:08 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 384 in a 79 Cut;lass???

I own a 79 Cutlass 2dr.with a 260V8.I am interested in doing an engine
swap,I have a 394 big block out of a 62 or 63 "Starfire".Any info that you
or other "Olds Nuts"might have,would be greatly appreciated. I am also
interested in any performance mods. or tips you might have for this engine.
As far as I have learned this engine is basically a debored 455.Is this
true. Thanks Dave Estok, Burnaby, B.C. bigwave@intergate.bc.ca
_________

Sorry, Dave, but the 394 is the last iteration of Oldsmobile's first V-8
family, a direct decendent of the 1949 Olds Rocket V-8.  Unfortunately, it
has absolutely nothing in common with the 1965-up big block family - every
single part with the exception of the distributor cap is different.  As a
result, not only will the motor mounts be different, but the transmission
bolt pattern is different.  The 394 family won't bolt to a TH350 or TH400
without Dave Smith's expensive adaptation kit.  As others have suggested, a
350/403 is a direct bolt-in, and a 425/455 will fit with only minor work
(primarily to the exhaust).  Sell the 394 to an early Olds buff and buy a
later motor.  What, if any, smog test requirements do you need to comply
with in BC?  A 350/403 looks identical to a 260 externally and is a good
"stealth" swap if you need one.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 22:27:31 -0500
From: Andy Mikesell <andymikesell@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Where have all the Rally Packs gone?

Where do I get a wife like yours? <grin>

<snip>

> the cost was in the $600 range, but ya gotta do what ya gotta do,
> depending on your impulsiveness, I guess (and your wife's support of the
> hobby, right?).<snip>

> Scott

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 23:28:46 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 1987 Olds 307 in a Buick Regal

Not on the list, respond to deckcorp@fiberia.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	deckcorp@fiberia.com
Subject: 1987 Olds 307 in a Buick Regal

I own a 1987 Buick Regal w/ a 307 Olds v-8 (4bbl).  I have spent numerous
hours trying to find information about upgrading my engine but with
absolutely no success, (everyone has Chevy's).  The body is of course a
G-Body with room to spare under the hood.  A few questions that I have
concerning replacing the engine are: 

1. How large could I go (realisticly) without having to rip apart my car. 
I found a section on the engine section of
http://www.en.com/users/thall/olds/ofeng.htm#Engines 1964 - 1990 which
gives the parts needed to make it into a HO 307, but can I put an Olds 350
into my G-Body without changing the mounts and having to drill holes, etc. 

2. Will there be a large performance difference if I changed the engine to
a 307 HO?? or is it just a waste of time. 

3. Any people that have a great understanding of the above processes would
be a great help.  I am desparate for information as my bank account grows
and I can't spend any money on the car. 

I appreciate and help you can give me.

Thankyou,
Christopher Decker

***********************************************************
*  Get your FREE e-mail and FREE web site at FIBERIA      *
*  http://www.fiberia.com                                 *
***********************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 22:32:37 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: 1987 Olds 307 in a Buick Regal

In one of the recient car crafts they show easy stuff for g bodys, go find it
it'll help you out alot

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 22:27:34 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: driver side window off track

Any know how on the list to help me fix my drivers side door and window?
The
window is very hard to roll up and seems to see-saw inside the car door.
Also the inside door handle no longer will open the door. I expect
something
inside disconnected. Am i right???
___________

You're right about something being disconnected inside the door, but you'll
need to tell us what type of car we're talking about here.  You'll
certainly need to pull the interior door trim panel to fix either problem.
Assuming this is a 60s-70s vintage Olds, chances are that the window
problem is caused by a broken window roller.  Several plastic rollers on
the window ride in the tracks and these tend to get brittle and break with
age.  Unfortunately I'm not aware of a source of new ones; used wrecking
yard parts are the only choice.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 22:55:38 -0500
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Re: (no subject)

Since you're in NJ, try Newark Auto Products. They are located in West
Orange. I believe they will make one up in any color you like.
				R. Kevin Noon
				66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
				85 DRB

- ----------
> From: Juz440@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: (no subject)
> Date: Saturday, January 16, 1999 5:20 PM
> 
> Can anyone help.  I am looking for a YELLOW convertible top for a 67 442.
> Even a source for someone with just the canvass for the top would be
great so
> I can have it made up.
> 
> Thanks
> Bob Juzwiak
> New Jersey

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 23:07:41 -0500
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Re: You're kidding, right

I saw a 67 Ch*velle, in mint condition on a 4X4 chassis cruisin' down Rt.
80 everyday for about a year. HUGE tires and a lift kit. I thought it was a
shame that somebody had turned a really nice muscle car into something like
that. Just glad it wasn't a 442.
				R. Kevin Noon
				66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
				85 DRB

- ----------
> From: MFATZII@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: You're kidding, right
> Date: Saturday, January 16, 1999 10:22 AM
> 
> I wasn't going to say anything because we all have seen some wierd stuff
out
> there, but now I have to.  The car I saw the other day was a Vega wagon
on a
> blazer frame, seen it before, no big deal , but hen I saw it again
yesterday
> with a snow plow......craziness....wish I had my camera.......
> 
> Ryan (MFatzII@aol.com)
> Lincoln,  Nebraska
> <<Turn it on, Wind it up, Blow it out, OLDS-MO-BILE>>
> 
> 56 88 4dr Sedan  (Project Rocket) 
> <A HREF="http://www.mergetel.com/~lee/cutlass/rides/wieders2/">Click
here</A>
> 83 Cutlass Supreme Brougham 307(RIP)
> 85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham V-6(girlfriend's)
> 89 Chevy Beretta CL (Ryan's  a.k.a   pool shark)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 23:18:54 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: F-41/sway bars

Hey list, whats the deal with the F41? Of course my Salon is missing the RPO
tag(?), so I don't know what options it came with, except visually, and it has
a rear sway bar, and a beefy front one too. Does that mean it has the F-41
package, or is a rear sway bar just a seperate option? What is included in F41
that can be visually verified while on the car? Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 23:22:06 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Crane Rocker Arms/pedestals for SBO

      Anyone running the "new" rocker arms that everyone has made by Crane and
others? The ones I'm thinking of have the stock rockers, but have a seperate
pedestal for each cylinder, which is then connected to the other cylinder. The
pedestals have oil grooves in them. From the picture they look like a good
idea, and since that is all I can find to replace mine, I'm going to have to
use them, just wondering about anyones experiences with them. Thanks, Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 20:28:25 -0800
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Roaring heater core

Peter Berusch wrote:
> 
> What's up with this ?  When the revs come up in my '70 442 there is a
> roaring noise that seems to come from around the area of the trans.  A
> friend of mine has a '69 442.  His makes the same noise.  He said it began
> when he replaced the heater core.  Expressing incredulity, I clamped off one
> of the heater hoses with a vise-grip.  Clamp on, no noise.  Clamp off,
> noise.  Has anyone had an experience like this, or have any info about this
> ?  Peter.



Peter,

This noise is usually caused by the coolant being 
rushed through the heater core at too high of a 
speed.  Possible reasons:  On non AC cars, 
there is a fitting at the back of the 
intake manifold that connects the hose to the 
heater core.  Inside this fitting there needs
to be a restrictor.  Factory fittings use a
rubber washer inside the fitting.  Due to age
it is possible the washer has disintegrated.
If the fitting has been replaced with an 
auto parts store grade part, it will most
likely have no restriction provision.  
Which will cause the noise.  In the case
of cars equipped with AC, the heater control
valve (which takes the place of the fitting)
has a similar restrictor in it and could be
deteriorated as well.  The factory heater cores
(and most premium aftermarket cores) have a 
means of restriction in them to slow down the
coolant speed and prevent this noise (as well
as prevent possible damage to the core by 
pressure surges).  Economy replacement heater 
cores often lack any form of restriction.  
Another thing you might look at is the
length of the heater hose that connects the 
water pump to the heater core.  Odd as this 
may sound, I once created this kind of noise  
in an effort to reduce underhood clutter. I 
shortened the hose and noticed a similar 
noise.  Replaced the shorter hose with 
the original length, and the noise was gone (?).     

Hope this helps.

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249

Web Site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 23:45:22 EST
From: CUTLASS442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Tips for Headliner installation

thank you Dave. forgot about numbering holes and rods. sorry...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 00:08:11 -0500
From: Aaron D Eoff <sheep542@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: driver side window off track

At 10:27 PM 1/16/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Any know how on the list to help me fix my drivers side door and window?
>The
>window is very hard to roll up and seems to see-saw inside the car door.
>Also the inside door handle no longer will open the door. I expect
>something
>inside disconnected. Am i right???
>___________
>
>You're right about something being disconnected inside the door, but you'll
>need to tell us what type of car we're talking about here.  
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>

Sorry for leaving out that important detail. The car is a 1977 Olds Cutlass
S- 2 Door.
Thanks again for all the help

AAron

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 00:10:00 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: F41 indication

Speaking of F41 stuff,
Is it the sticker on the underside of the decklid where one would see "F41"
of is it elsewhere, ie. a door jam.  What other good codes should I look for
on my new Cutlass?  thanks

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass (hybernating)
84 Calais ($200!)
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 00:10:47 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: F41 indication

F41? what is it?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 00:19:30 -0500
From: "C Thomas" <cthomas@stny.lrun.com>
Subject: Re: Ralley Pac Question

Does anyone Out there Have racing stripes on their G-Body and if so does it
look stupid or actually pretty decent...
- -----Original Message-----
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com <CPEARLPARK@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, January 16, 1999 10:22 PM
Subject: Re: Ralley Pac Question


>Chris, I have a set of instructions somewhere. I'll try to find them and
get
>back to you...
>
>Scott
>71 4-4-2 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 00:31:18 -0500
From: "Steve Cea" <cutlass@citlink.net>
Subject: Boring Web Ring

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01BE41B0.B3106C00
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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I have been a fan of Oldsmobile for a long time and this is the most =
boring web ring I have ever seen, goodbye to all of you...

- ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01BE41B0.B3106C00
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have been a fan of Oldsmobile for =
a long time=20
and this is the most boring web ring I have ever seen, goodbye to all of =

you...</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01BE41B0.B3106C00--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 00:44:06 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: F41 indication

The code for the performance suspension package, also consisting of quick
ratio steering box.  For 80's Cutlasses.

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass (hybernating)
84 Calais ($200!)
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Gutlass66@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, January 17, 1999 12:11 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: F41 indication


F41? what is it?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 00:51:38 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Th200-R4 in Chevy Truck LONG

Dorian,

I'd be willing to bet that the transmission stays in the same place on either
application and the engine mounts do the moving - lets them use the same
driveshaft.  The question would be which tailshaft length did GM use in the
trucks?

More questions..................

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 01:13:06 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Th200-R4 in Chevy Truck LONG

In a message dated 1/16/99 9:52:47 PM Pacific Standard Time, KS7RACING@aol.com
writes:

<< Dorian,
 
 I'd be willing to bet that the transmission stays in the same place on either
 application and the engine mounts do the moving - lets them use the same
 driveshaft.  The question would be which tailshaft length did GM use in the
 trucks?
 
 More questions..................
 
 Take Care,
 Ken Snyder >>

      Ken, good question...I've got a TH400 from a 2WD truck that I'll have to
look at...is there more "play" in a long tailshaft as opposed to short? I
would assume whichever gave the driveshaft the most amount of movement for
suspension flex would have been used on the trucks. I know older (until they
went to the chain drive t-case) GM shortbed/K5 4WD incorporates a driveshaft
that has a yolk at both ends, and the length change due to suspension travel
is solved by the driveshaft being two splined pieces, one thinner than the
other, allowing it to move into itself. Other problem I can see is that Olds
motors are perhaps longer (front to rear) than Chev motors? I know the G-
bodies could use the same radiators, indicating similar length, but for sure
best way to do it is to look over an Olds diesel truck. I still need to get
the exhaust blockoff plate out of the one at the wrecking yard here...Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 00:45:52 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Interior Question

The metal portion of the dash is painted the color of the vinyl dash. This
could be black, saddle brown,etc.. I painted mine body color (blue) and
then the vinyl portion is black. This is not the "factory correct" way but
I think it looks good.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Chris Costantino <chrisc@tampabay.rr.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Interior Question
> Date: Friday, January 15, 1999 5:38 PM
> 
> OK - I've just painted the car - and I mean painted! No interior, no
glass.
> My problem is this - over the cars life someone replaced various pieces
of
> the interior. I have a mixture of different browns - from very dark
(seats)
> to very light (almost tan - dash). I should remember this, but my painter
> primed anything that is metal. What color is the steel portion of the
dash
> (the portion that runs on top, from underneath the dash pad to the
> windshield? I'm going to stay somewhere in the brown family. I like the
> Sienna color. Additionally if someone could forward Brown/Sienna/Tan
> interior (offlist) pictures, I would very much appreciate it!
> 
> thanks....

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 01:02:37 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: 1987 Olds 307 in a Buick Regal

>I own a 1987 Buick Regal w/ a 307 Olds v-8 (4bbl).  I have spent numerous
>hours trying to find information about upgrading my engine but with
>absolutely no success, (everyone has Chevy's).  The body is of course a
>G-Body with room to spare under the hood.  A few questions that I have
>concerning replacing the engine are:

>1. How large could I go (realisticly) without having to rip apart my car.
>I found a section on the engine section of
>http://www.en.com/users/thall/olds/ofeng.htm#Engines 1964 - 1990 which
>gives the parts needed to make it into a HO 307, but can I put an Olds 350
>into my G-Body without changing the mounts and having to drill holes, etc.


Small block olds (260, 307, 350, 403) is identical externally and size wise
to the the 307.  Everything you have now would fit.  You could put a big
block as well (400, 425, 455) without much difficutly, but some work would
be involved.  Others have done this and can tell you.  You would have to
relocate the heater box, as far as I know.  As far as engine mounts, you
would use 307 mounts for any olds motor including the big blocks.  I used
307 mounts for my 455 in my '81 Delta.

>2. Will there be a large performance difference if I changed the engine to
>a 307 HO?? or is it just a waste of time.


You would get a bit, but if you really want to be sattisfied, put a 350 or
bigger in there.  The easiest power would be a 403 olds and it would be the
least work to put in.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 03:29:40 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: 403 rebuild/SB Olds intake...

     hey again everyone...more questions....is there a way to change the water
"switch" on the back of the intake to only a fitting? The way the vacuum
switches work on my car, I had no luck getting it to ever work right, so in an
effort to clean up the engine compartment, I am thinking of removing it. If
someone knows EXACTLY how vacuum to it needs to be routed, I would be willing
to try that though..I would like to be able to shut off the heat. Also, is
there a plug made to fill the O2 sensor port? It broke my AC box when I pulled
the motor out, and since I don't use it, I figure I could plug it. If there
aren't any that will fit, is it possible to cut most of the exterior of the
sensor off and still not have a vacuum leak? That WOULD be the easiest way, if
it's possible. Thanks, Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 02:38:17 -0600
From: <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: 403 rebuild/SB Olds intake...

I guess by the way you describe it, the water "switch" (Heater control
valve) is a small diameter fitting, inside a larger fitting in the
manifold. If this is the case, then you have the wrong control valve,
and is probably the reason it never worked right for you. The early Olds
motors use a small diameter control valve, that functions opposite of
the later style large diameter control valve. Go to the auto parts store
and get one for your vehicle (or one for a vehicle with a 403, don't
know the whole story here, cause I haven't been following it :) It
should fit right into the manifold and function correctly, I believe
they are in the neighborhood of $18. The O2 sensor hole just happens to
be the same thread and diameter of an Olds type spark plug. 14mm X
something...look it up and you can go to the hardware store and by a
plug for it.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

DYeager535@aol.com wrote:
> 
>      hey again everyone...more questions....is there a way to change the 
water
> "switch" on the back of the intake to only a fitting? The way the vacuum
> switches work on my car, I had no luck getting it to ever work right, so in 
an
> effort to clean up the engine compartment, I am thinking of removing it. If
> someone knows EXACTLY how vacuum to it needs to be routed, I would be willing
> to try that though..I would like to be able to shut off the heat. Also, is
> there a plug made to fill the O2 sensor port? It broke my AC box when I 
pulled
> the motor out, and since I don't use it, I figure I could plug it. If there
> aren't any that will fit, is it possible to cut most of the exterior of the
> sensor off and still not have a vacuum leak? That WOULD be the easiest way, 
if
> it's possible. Thanks, Dorian
.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 04:43:42 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Towing

Powertrain ought to handle it fine.  I would consider a trans cooler,
though.  I would also be a bit careful if still running the original 9.5"
four wheel drum brakes.

Regards,
Fred

- -----Original Message-----
From: Gutlass66@aol.com <Gutlass66@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, January 16, 1999 8:15 PM
Subject: Re: Towing


>I'm going to tow our 18' Donzi Classic with my 1966 Cutlass, I shouldn't
have
>any problems, should I? The boat is like 3500lbs with trailer (42gal gas
tank
>and a 351 ford...hehe, it hauls some major ass, in like 3 foot sweels, I
love
>the 24deg deep v hull...http://www.donzimarine.com, i'll quit advertising),
>but I shouldnt have any problem, should i? 3.73 Posi rear, 330, 4bbl, It
>should be fine, and oh Mike, I'm getting one of them propeller thingies :)
>Kelly Erickson
>1966 Cutlass
>Http://www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 04:48:06 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Towing

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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John,
=20
As I recall, you have an '83 98.  Unless you swapped in a B body rear =
end (88, Impala, etc.)  You should have an 8.5" ring gear saginaw (Chevy =
"C" clip type) unit.  Am I missing something?

Regards,
Fred
    -----Original Message-----
    From: Jonathan Hart <jehart@RTelco.Net>
    To: Oldsmobile Link <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
    Date: Friday, January 15, 1999 10:17 PM
    Subject: Towing
   =20
   =20
    Thanks for the info on the 700-r4 Greg. The 307 with the factory =
gear in my 83 98 really hurts at highway speed lugging around my 20 foot =
pontoon boat. I am going to put dual exhaust and flowmasters and change =
the factory 2.73 gear to a 3.42 or 3.73. Has anyone put a 3.73 in this =
application? I am curious about the tack speed in normal drive at 60 =
mph.
    =20
    Thanks, Jon Hart
    1983 98
    1972 Chevelle
    1998 Malibu
    1990 Mustang Convertible

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>John,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>As I recall, =
you have an '83=20
98.&nbsp; Unless you swapped in a B body rear end (88, Impala, =
etc.)&nbsp; You=20
should have an 8.5&quot; ring gear saginaw (Chevy &quot;C&quot; clip =
type)=20
unit.&nbsp; Am I missing something?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Regards,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Fred</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>Jonathan Hart &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:jehart@RTelco.Net">jehart@RTelco.Net</A>&gt;<BR><B>To:=20
    </B>Oldsmobile Link &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>&g=
t;<BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>Friday, January 15, 1999 10:17 PM<BR><B>Subject:=20
    </B>Towing<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks for the info on the =
700-r4 Greg. The=20
    307 with the factory gear in my 83 98 really hurts at highway speed =
lugging=20
    around my 20 foot pontoon boat. I am going to put dual exhaust and=20
    flowmasters and change the factory 2.73 gear to a 3.42 or 3.73. Has =
anyone=20
    put a 3.73 in this application? I am curious about the tack speed in =
normal=20
    drive at 60 mph.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks, Jon Hart</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>1983 98</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>1972 Chevelle</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>1998 Malibu</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>1990 Mustang=20
Convertible</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0092_01BE41D4.92BD3C20--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 09:46:53 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Tips for Headliner installation

In a message dated 1/16/99 9:29:21 PM Central Standard Time,
ab348@chebucto.ns.ca writes:

<< 
 Or the one that applies to me when I'm doing carpentry... "measure once,
 cut and curse a bunch of times..." 

 
 :)
 
 Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
  >>


   Or my basic rule of thumb...Just "eyeball" it!

Collyn Eastham 
65 442 
65 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 09:34:09 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: HEI Swap.  Real Life Benefits?

Mornin',

As I've said a couple times before, I'm considering the HEI swap.
Before I proceed, I'm interested in hearing from those of you who've
done it and your feelings.

Here are the things I'm NOT really concerned about.  First, improved RPM
range.  I don't race or rod my car.  So, higher speed is not a concern.
Second, not having to change points.  I've been replacing points since I
was 16 (I'm now 32).  I never thought it was that much of a hassle, and
they've never given me fits.  (However, I AM interested in the long-term
cost savings of not having to buy points, or replace spark plugs and
wires as often).

Here are the things I am concerned about,  First and foremost, improved
fuel economy.  The FAQ indicates some impressive gains after installing
and recurving an HEI distributor.  Of course, improved MPG only makes
sense, but what kind of results did ya'll have?  Second, improved low
and mid range performance.  Finally, what problems were encountered?
I've read the FAQ and it speaks of the washer at the oil pump coming
loose and potential difficulty getting the old distributor out.  Anyone
else have these problems?

If anyone noticed any other benefits I haven't mentioned here, I'd be
glad to hear that, too.

Thanks,
- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 09:10:19 -0500
From: toddmorr@us.ibm.com
Subject: Re: Centerforce - clutches and flywheels

>I'll bet they are the same too.  When yanked the motor out of the 67 >442
the little pivot point that screws into the block broke off.   >Went to the
dealership to try and get one.  They discontinued the >Olds part years ago.
>I had him look up a 1970 Chevy pickup clutch pivot.  They still make >that
one, and upon inspection it turns out its the exact same part..  >Chances
are if the pivot is the same and the throw out berring is the >same, the
lever will be the same.  It's amazing they dont cross >reference these
things.

No guys, I went through this a year ago on my 71 442, the clutch fork isn't
the same across all the GMs, definitely different for Chevy's, might be the
same across BOP.  I ended up getting the fork from Ken Reese in Florida,
cost $60, after I first tried the Chevy fork.  You are correct that the
pivot point (which simply screws into the bell housing) is the same but the
fork is not.  The difference in the forks is subtle, maybe a quarter inch
or so but after installing it you'll see that the throw out bearing isn't
centered on the clutch "fingers".

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 09:57:12 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: 403 rebuild/SB Olds intake...

In a message dated 1/17/99 2:31:17 AM Central Standard Time,
DYeager535@aol.com writes:

<< hey again everyone...more questions....is there a way to change the water
 "switch" on the back of the intake to only a fitting? 

   Yes, buy just a fitting...available at just about any hardware store for
under $2



 
 If someone knows EXACTLY how vacuum to it needs to be routed, I would be
willing
 to try that though..I would like to be able to shut off the heat.

   Im not sure, but I have only one vacuum line from my fan box, so I assume
it is the correct one for the valve.


 Also, is there a plug made to fill the O2 sensor port? It broke my AC box
when I pulled the motor out, and since I don't use it, I figure I could plug
it.  Thanks, Dorian >>

   Yes, again, it is available at your local hardware store.

Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2099 10:18:54 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Ralley Pac Question

From: Chris Costantino <chrisc@tampabay.rr.com>
>Hi everyone -
>I have a question about the 70-72 ralley pac. I'm swapping out the idiot
>lights and the clock and I need to know how to wire the tach portion. I
>don't want to make a mistake and cook the tach!


Elecronic tachs wire to the negative side of the ignition coil. On a stock
ignition, that would be the (-) terminal that goes to the points. On HEI,
there's a spade lug in the cap marked TACH. On aftermarket units, consult
documentation.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 10:47:59 -0500
From: "Gary Couse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Test Delete

ISP mail server was down for 36 hr, This is a function test. Please delete.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@CC-IROC-SS.com 

Custom Conversion Prototype: 
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 10:55:25 -0500
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: HEI Swap.  Real Life Benefits?

>As I've said a couple times before, I'm considering the HEI swap.
>Before I proceed, I'm interested in hearing from those of you who've
>done it and your feelings.

Thomas,
The major benefits I have seen are in easier starting and smoother
performance. I don't think my gas mileage improved though, since I switched
to a 4 barrel carb and a bigger cam at the same time; not to mention the big
valves :-). I have revved it out to 6000 RPM once and it was still pulling
strong.
The recurve kit did help performance noticeably, but after a lot of trial
and error, I ended up using only one "medium" spring from the kit.
Seriously I like the HEI and electronicly regulated alternator much better.
The reliability factor is a whole lot better in my opinion too.
It's still an expensive proposition though, to switch out parts in perfectly
good working condition and replace them with new ones.
The only difficulty I remember, is forgetting that I needed my 12v source to
be available in both the ignition "on" and "run" positions. The distributor
fought back a bit getting it out, but a bit of wiggling and banging, and out
it came.
I also added a spacer under my stock air cleaner for better clearance.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie, Melbourne, FL
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 11:29:27 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: F-41/sway bars

The sway bars are pretty much telltale signs that you have F41.  I don't
think the rear sway bar was a seperate option.  Also, the F41 came with
stiffer springs and a quicker steering box than the regular ones.
Brian.

DYeager535@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Hey list, whats the deal with the F41? Of course my Salon is missing the RPO
> tag(?), so I don't know what options it came with, except visually, and it 
has
> a rear sway bar, and a beefy front one too. Does that mean it has the F-41
> package, or is a rear sway bar just a seperate option? What is included in 
F41
> that can be visually verified while on the car? Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 11:41:46 EST
From: Bbymks4@aol.com
Subject: Re: Th200-R4 in Chevy Truck LONG

      An Olds diesel truck ? What are those?
     G.M.C.?    I guess that a 455 would bolt right in !!
     just curious.....thanks from......Steve M.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 12:28:37 -0500
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: My Birthday Present

My wife got me an early birthday present yesterday, a '95 Aurora.  Up
until today, my 442 has been my daily driver.  With the Aurora, I'll be
able to take th 442 off the road to do some work on it.

The Aurora weighs more than my 442 (3946 lbs), has a much smaller
engine.  While it can't keep up with my 442, it does have respectable
acceleration.

One interesting note is the engine is 244 cubic inches, 442 backwards! 
- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
95 Aurora 
OCA# 30442

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 13:19:22 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: HEI Swap.  Real Life Benefits?

In a message dated 1/17/99 6:48:16 AM Pacific Standard Time,
smithtp@ix.netcom.com writes:

<< ere are the things I am concerned about,  First and foremost, improved
 fuel economy.  The FAQ indicates some impressive gains after installing
 and recurving an HEI distributor.  Of course, improved MPG only makes
 sense, but what kind of results did ya'll have?  Second, improved low
 and mid range performance.  Finally, what problems were encountered?
 I've read the FAQ and it speaks of the washer at the oil pump coming
 loose and potential difficulty getting the old distributor out.  Anyone
 else have these problems?
 
 If anyone noticed any other benefits I haven't mentioned here, I'd be
 glad to hear that, too.
 
 Thanks,
 --
 Thomas P. Smith >>

      Thomas, the FAQ's statement about recurving the distributor raised my
eyebrow too. I'm not calling anyone a liar, but I don't believe there is any
way recurving a distributor will net that much gain in MPG. My truck ONCE got
22MPG, then thereafter was always 17. I must have been the mistake in that
equation. Just sent my '77 403 distributor to the shop. The drive shaft(?) and
lower bushing were completely shot. Had to get a new shaft, and had to have a
new bushing made. The bushings, from what the shop told me, are not ready made
by anyone. And yes, most of the distributors I have tried to pull were very
difficult to remove from the engine initially. The only other advantage would
be a "stronger" spark, which can jump a larger gap, and if your motor was
burning oil, might make it run longer without fouling plugs. I on't know how
that could be a real world benefit though : )  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 13:28:55 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: My Birthday Present

Yeah Kurt!  Kick ass!  I've talked to a few people who have had Aurora's and
STS's (seems to be a common comparison), and they all prefer the Aurora.
That's because that car kicks so much ass.  Does your wife have a sister?
Please filter her down my way.

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass (hybernating)
84 Calais ($200!)
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

- -----Original Message-----
My wife got me an early birthday present yesterday, a '95 Aurora.  Up
until today, my 442 has been my daily driver.  With the Aurora, I'll be
able to take th 442 off the road to do some work on it.

The Aurora weighs more than my 442 (3946 lbs), has a much smaller
engine.  While it can't keep up with my 442, it does have respectable
acceleration.

One interesting note is the engine is 244 cubic inches, 442 backwards!
- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
95 Aurora
OCA# 30442

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 13:29:12 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: My Birthday Present

Oh, and Happy Birthday!

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass (hybernating)
84 Calais ($200!)
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 13:43:58 -0500
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Spotted: 67 442 FS

Spotted the 67 442 today at Spacecoast Automart here in Melbourne, Fl. Could
be an unrestored original Paint (Antique Pewter), is dull, but no rust.
Check out Jim Chermac's 67 at 442.com if you want to see the color. It has a
black vinyl top also in VG condition. Mileage is 71,210. Automatic, SS1's.
Interior in good shape but small 2" tear at seam on the driver's seat. Looks
old underneath, but still in decent shape. Suspension bushings a bit
mushroomed and cruddy.
Get this!! It has what looks like original Firestone Wide Oval tires. F70 -
14. The white letters have thousands of tiny cracks in them. They look 30+
years old. Couldn't see the VIN, it was covered by the sales card. It said
"as is, no warranty"
If anyone would like more details, e-mail me privately and I'll try and get
them.
BTW, There is a 87 GN there too.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie, Melbourne, FL
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1721
*********************************

