Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
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cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1737


oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, January 27 1999     Volume 01 : Number 1737



Re: '71 Vista Cruiser King Pin. Will '71 Caprice part fit?
Olds crank on Ebay
Re: Macao (kinda long)
Re: Tragedy that shouldn't have been
Re: Need a solution to my Key problem
Re: Tragedy that shouldn't have been
UNBOUNCE: 1964 F-85 Engine swapping
307 and 350 Strokes (Crank changing)
Re: Tragedy that shouldn't have been
Re: dash pad covers
re: Need a solution to my Key problem
Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming
Re: Tragedy that shouldn't have been
Mailing list profile?
Re: Maaco (kinda long)
79 Cutlass Radio
Re: dash pad covers
Re: Vaseline Talk
FS 66-69 Cutlass/4-4-2 parts
Re: Need a solution to my Key problem
Re: 79 Cutlass Radio
Re: 79 Cutlass Radio
Re: Mailing list profile?
Re: 307 and 350 Strokes (Crank changing)
Req: Ashtray Cover & Boxed Ctrl. Arm
Re: 307 and 350 Strokes (Crank changing)
Re: Req: Ashtray Cover & Boxed Ctrl. Arm
Re: Vaseline Talk
Re: Mailing list profile?
Rear end Type Question
Re: Req: Ashtray Cover & Boxed Ctrl. Arm
Re: dash pad covers
1964 F-85 Engine swapping
NON OLDS: Possible list of ALL mailing lists??
Re: Maaco (kinda long)
Re: Mailing list profile?
Computer
Re: 79 Cutlass Radio
Re: Mailing list profile?
Re: Rear end Type Question
list member
OLDS on CNN !!
Re: 79 Cutlass Radio
Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming
RE: Mailing list profile?
Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming
Re: wanted: black 69 cutlass GB door
M21 or M22 Behind ~Worked~ 455
Re: dash pad covers
Classic Car Insurance
Re: dash pad covers
Re: M21 or M22 Behind ~Worked~ 455
Re: dash pad covers
Woodgrain
Re: M21 or M22 Behind ~Worked~ 455
Oldsmobile 88 is retired
Re: FS 66-69 Cutlass/4-4-2 parts
My board
RE: dash pad covers
Re: Classic Car Insurance
Re: FS 66-69 Cutlass/4-4-2 parts
Re: FS 66-69 Cutlass/4-4-2 parts
Re: Classic Car Insurance
Re: wanted: black 69 cutlass GB door
Re: Classic Car Insurance
Re: FS 66-69 Cutlass/4-4-2 parts
Re: D head/? head
Re: Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 02:36:35 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: '71 Vista Cruiser King Pin. Will '71 Caprice part fit?

Oldsfire@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Front end parts should interchange, according to my parts interchange 
manual!!

I'm not so sure about that.  I've tried fullsize car front end parts on
my 72 Vista Cruiser. (see parts clerk thread :) They don't fit.  Big car
rotors don't fit a VC, (tried it) I doubt the spindle would.  I know for
a fact the tie rod ends don't interchange either.     

A spindle off of a cutlass/skylark/lemans/malibu will fit the Vista
Cruiser.  

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 00:36:02 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Olds crank on Ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=59971394

Turned, currently less than a dime!  

- -- 

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 01:06:25 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Macao (kinda long)

When I went and talked to Macao guys for an estimate, it all looked OKAY.
BUT, at then end, he told me to take the car to (he said where) some
car-wash that had hard brushes before I brought it in.  That was enough for
me.  Also my van was done at Macao (by the prev. owner) and it looks okay
pain wise, but the rust was never really fixed.  When the metal got
eaten-up, you could see newspaper and wood for body work.  It was not a
expensive job but still.  The paint does look okay, even still.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 Dodge MaxiVan (360/727/4.10s)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 00:05:57 PST
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tragedy that shouldn't have been

My condolences.  

I have to concur with Brian.  I overended and totalled a Honda PreLude.  
Because I was strapped in, I was able to crawl out of the sunroof.  I 
was also glad I didn't buy the Alfa Spider.

God Bless,

Chris Rivier
Austin,TX
'66 Delta 88...The BEAST is BACK!
'88 Festiva...ZIPPY 166K LAWN ORNAMENT!


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 00:23:07 PST
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Need a solution to my Key problem

Hi,

Go to a good locksmith shop.

They can help you all around.  Mobile locksmiths are available, but a 
lot more expensive.

If you remove one of the lock cylinders from the door (either one will 
work).  It's code can be matched and a key made.

You can also make one key open everything, but not recommended.

Good luck,


Chris Rivier
Austin,TX
'66 Delta 88...The BEAST is BACK!
'88 Festiva...ZIPPY 166K LAWN ORNAMENT!


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 05:38:38 -0500
From: "Gib Loudon" <cutlass@mill.tds.net>
Subject: Re: Tragedy that shouldn't have been

My deepest sorrows go out to you as well.  It is a shame to lose a loved one
for such a terrible reason.

I was in a roll-over accident the day after my 16th birthday. If I had not
been wearing my seatbelt, I would have died for sure.  It only takes a
minute to fasten it and it's really not as uncomfortable as we like to think
it is....so please....BUCKLE UP.

Gib Loudon
cutlass@mill.tds.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 06:48:13 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 1964 F-85 Engine swapping

Not on the list; respond to pianocraft@hotmail.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Lawrence Doty" <pianocraft@hotmail.com>
Subject: 1964 F-85 Engine swapping

My name is Larry from Pittsburgh, PA
I have an 1964, F-85, 225 V-6 with a 2 speed jetaway transmission.
The car has not been driven in the winter until 1997 and at that time 
had 49,000 miles on it.  It has quite a few more miles on it now but no 
serious rust.  The engine was recently driven with a bad oil pump and  
needs a complete rebuild.

My first choice would be to rebuild the existing engine and keep 
everything original.  The main problem with that is getting motor 
mounts.  Because that was an odd engine for that year,  I can't seem to 
find a source for aftermarket engine mounts.  I have tried Hemmings 
motor news, their advertisers, and about 10 local auto parts stores.  
I've tried Buick engine mounts but they hold the engine up too high.  
DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN GET THE RIGHT MOUNTS?

My next choice would be to go to a 330 or a 350 V-8.  Is either of these 
better than the other?  Is one alot easier to install than the other?  
I'm interested in hearing someone's thoughts on this.

My email address is Pianocraft@hotmail.com.  I rebuild pianos for a 
living in case anyone was wondering about the odd address.  

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 07:57:12 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: 307 and 350 Strokes (Crank changing)

I went yesterday to pick up my 350 Olds crank, which apparently won't
fit a 307, and I was looking thorught he guy's Crank-book, and it most
definetely lists ALL 307's and 260's as having a 3.39 Stroke, and 350's
and 403's using the 3.385 stroke

Misprint??

Round off Error???

What the &*^%&*%^&*


Eric
http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 09:03:30 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Tragedy that shouldn't have been

Condolences on your wife's neice.
Bruce

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 09:15:17 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: dash pad covers

In a message dated 1/26/99 8:14:29 PM EST, cshankle@home.com writes:

<< My dad called me a moment ago.  He said that on My Classis Car or one of
 those shows he saw a company that sold replacement dash pads.  These are
 supposedly some sort of cover that you can just stick to your old
 cracked pad and make it look new.  These are also availible for door
 panels.  Has anybody heard of these or did anyone see that show?  My
 uncle would like to put this on his L*ncoln's dash pad (better than on
 an Olds) so I would like any info that may be availible.
 Thanks, >>

Brian,
If they're the ones that are "carpeted" don't waste your money. I had one and
it looked like a bad toupee It now serves as door mat in my garage. Of course,
that's just IMHO. I could be wrong.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 Conv. (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 06:14:38 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: re: Need a solution to my Key problem

> Del,
> 	You should have been able to bring in the DOOR key and the trunk
> lock cylinder & have the keysmith make the tumbler match the door
key so you
> won't need 2 separate keys.  I did it with my 4-4-2.
===========================

I knew that it could be done, but it was a bit cheaper for me to just
have the locks keyed. So, I went that route. I was having a tough time
getting paychecks to meet every other week! Just as an odd note, when
I had the locks keyed, they could not get a usual GM round door key to
fit in there! The only style that would fit in the lock was the square
ignition key. The locksmith was baffled about this one!
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 06:27:52 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming

> Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 15:24:06 -0500
> From: "Ken" <olds442@en.com>
> Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming

> Yank the distributor out, put a 1/4" drive 3/8 socket on a 6 inch
extension.
> Put it over the oil pump shaft.  put the other end of the extension in the
> drill chuck.  A variable speed drill would be best.  Run the drill till
oil
> comes out of the tops of the pushrods.  Your motor is primed.  Toss the
> distributor back in put the valve covers on and fire it up..   That way
you
> can save your Vaseline for other things..

What I was referring to was not necessarrily the act of 'Priming' an engine
itself, but to help aid the brand new pump start the 'Pickup' of new fluids.

When I Prime any engine (After Rebuild), I just remove the coil wire from
distributor cap, and ground it via jumper wire.  I then proceed to turn the
engine over until I get oil pressure for a minute or 2.  The fuel is also
blocked at this point.  Why bother with removing the distributor and all
that garbage.

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 09:39:58 EST
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Tragedy that shouldn't have been

  when your that age you think life is just starting and the possibility it
may end never crosses one`s mind.  i lost my best in a head on when i was 16.
my condolences to you and your family.      steven, w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 08:42:22 -0600
From: "Michael L Johnson" <mljohns2@crnotes.collins.rockwell.com>
Subject: Mailing list profile?

Hey folks,
I know this is off topic but I found it on another list and thought some of
you'd find it familiar, particularly those who have been on the other
list......guess it's the same all over eh?
*************************************
Q: How many list subscribers does it take to change a light bulb?

A: 1,331:

1 to change the light bulb and to post to the list that the light bulb has
been changed.

14 to share similar experiences of changing light bulbs and how the light
bulb
could have been changed differently.

7 to caution about the dangers of changing light bulbs.

27 to point out spelling/grammar errors in posts about changing light
bulbs.

53 to flame the spell checkers

156 to write to the list administrator complaining about the light bulb
discussion and its inappropriateness to this mail list.

41 to correct spelling in the spelling/grammar flames.

109 to post that this list is not about light bulbs and to please take this
E-
Mail exchange to alt.lite.bulb

203 to demand that cross posting to alt.grammar, alt.spelling and
alt.punctuation about changing light bulbs be stopped.

111 to defend the posting to this list saying that we all use light bulbs
and
therefore the posts **are** relevant to this mail list.

306 to debate which method of changing light bulbs is superior, where to
buy
the best light bulbs, what brand of light bulbs work best for this
technique,
and what brands are faulty.

27 to post URLs where one can see examples of different light bulbs

14 to post that the URLs were posted incorrectly, and to post corrected
URLs.

3 to post about links they found from the URLs that are relevant to this
list
which makes light bulbs relevant to this list.

33 to summarize all posts to date, then quote them including all headers
and
footers, and then add "Me Too."

12 to post to the list that they are unsubscribing because they cannot
handle
the light bulb controversy.

19 to quote the "Me Too's" to say, "Me Three."

4 to suggest that posters request the light bulb FAQ.

1 to propose new alt.change.lite.bulb newsgroup.

47 to say this is just what alt.physic.cold_fusion was meant for, leave it
here.

143 votes for alt.lite.bulb.


Sounds familiar doesn't it?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 10:02:34 EST
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Maaco (kinda long)

i have known a lot of paint and body men over the years and done a fair amount
of it my self. i wouldnt let them paint my kids wagon!,  try stripping or
reworking a car after one of their paint jobs and you will see what i mean!
there pretty much the b*tt end of a joke as far as body shops go. i have seen
body shops want to charge extra because it was one of there paint jobs and
they knew it would be h*ll to put it back right.  you get what you pay for!
and if your budget wont allow a top quality paint job at present your better
off waiting.  you could always try it your self, it may not be a pro. job but
at least you know the person working on it put forth there best effort. with
as many people on this list that have done this sort of thing your sure to
have help with questions.                                   my personal
opinion!  (soap box put away)    steven, w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 10:04:43 -0500
From: Darren King <KingD@sx.com>
Subject: 79 Cutlass Radio

I have a 79 Cutlass Salon with the old AM radio in
it.  You wouldn't believe how much AM sucks!  I'd
like to replace it with a AM/FM cassette deck.  Should 
any g-body deck slot right in?  Will a cassette deck have
more wires than a Am deck or shoild they all match up?

Thanks,


Darren King

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 10:04:58 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Re: dash pad covers

I saw the spot on Shade Tree Mechanic about the dash pads and door panel
covers.  The dash pads appeared to be some type of thin plastic.  They are
lightly glued over the original pad like a second skin.  The door panels were
the same  material and are applied the same way.  The next week they used
another one of the dash covers on another vehicle.  While they did "clean up"
the dash and look fine on a daily driver, I can't imagine using them on a nice
older car.  Just Dashes will re-skin your original pad for a substantial
amount, but the results are worth it for a restored vehicle.

My $.02
Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 07:02:42 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk

- ---Mikeytvb@aol.com wrote:
>
> next time anyone is detailing their car, use vasoline on most the
interrior
> pirces.  it really makes that old dash shine plus it gives the
interrior a
> little better smell.  also use it on tires.  this makes the tires
look new.
=============================

Won't that attract dust and dirt a lot faster though? Not to mention
maybe even bake onto the dash in extreme sunlight?
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 09:50:45 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: FS 66-69 Cutlass/4-4-2 parts

- -From a 66 Cutlass, passenger taillight assembly, includes everything but
the light bulb, asking $40

- -From a 66 Cutlass, backup lamp assemblies, one lens has a scratch, asking
$40

- -From a 67 Supreme, complete taillight lens set, includes everything but the
exterior chrome pieces, asking $60

- -For a 68-9 W-machine, lower ram air hose clamps, the clamps that hold the
hose to the bumper scoop, $18 pair

Thanks,
Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris/

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 07:13:51 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Need a solution to my Key problem

- ---Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com> wrote:
>
> I though the reason the trunk was keyed differently was for valise
<sp?>
> parking - you would only give them your door/ignition key - that way
if you
> had anything in the trunk or glove box - they would not have access
to it...
> Possible?
> Todd Daenzer
> All the toys put away for the winter...
==================================
The only car I have ever had that had a different keying for the trunk
and the glove box is my 86 H*nda. I have owned a 81 Chevy Citation and
my 69 Oldsmobile. My dad has all GM products (less his AMC Spirit). I
have always seen the door key work in the trunk/glove box/and doors.
My dad's 64 Impala and his AMC Spirit both use the ignition key as the
door key and trunk key and such.
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 09:16:13 -0600 (CST)
From: Bryceman <bryceman@442.com>
Subject: Re: 79 Cutlass Radio

>I have a 79 Cutlass Salon with the old AM radio in
>it.  You wouldn't believe how much AM sucks!  I'd
>like to replace it with a AM/FM cassette deck.  Should

I have no idea. All my stuff is '72 and older. Sorry


Life, Liberty and the Pursuit of Oldsmobiles!
J. Bryce Smith
Email: bryceman@442.com
Web: http://442.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 09:18:23 -0600
From: "Michael L Johnson" <mljohns2@crnotes.collins.rockwell.com>
Subject: Re: 79 Cutlass Radio

Darren,

     Any GM deck will work as long as it is from a1989 or older vehicle(
+/-  two years, not sure on the year where they went from 12 pin to 24
pin). The only problem with going with something newer than 1981 (+/- one
year, not sure of when they changed the physical dimensions) is that you'll
need the radio trim plate that goes around the radio and heater controls to
accommodate for a bigger radio face that incorporates the radio knobs on
the radio itself instead of out to the sides like yours is right now. I
have a 80 Cutlass that I put a factory digital tape deck in that has seek
and scan on it, I think it came out of a Cady or maybe a Toro or something
because I have yet to see one like it in another Oldsmobile. It bolts right
in and it has the knobs out to the side of it.

Mike Johnson



Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

To:   "'olds-gbody'" <olds_gbody@listbot.com>
cc:   "'olds'" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject:  79 Cutlass Radio




I have a 79 Cutlass Salon with the old AM radio in
it.  You wouldn't believe how much AM sucks!  I'd
like to replace it with a AM/FM cassette deck.  Should
any g-body deck slot right in?  Will a cassette deck have
more wires than a Am deck or shoild they all match up?

Thanks,


Darren King

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 10:26:24 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Mailing list profile?

Hey folks,
I know this is off topic but I found it on another list and thought some of
you'd find it familiar, particularly those who have been on the other
list......guess it's the same all over eh?
*************************************
Q: How many list subscribers does it take to change a light bulb?

A: 1,331:

<chopped>
>47 to say this is just what alt.physic.cold_fusion was meant for, leave it
>here.
>
>143 votes for alt.lite.bulb.
>
>
>Sounds familiar doesn't it?
>
>
>

Ha Ha, very good. But you forgot the every other one that includes a chevy
bashing comment in their light bulb .02. 
So that would make 1996.5 list subscribers needed to change a light bulb.

Omega man
'74 Omega S 455
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 09:55:50 -0600
From: "Mark Tupper" <mtupper@palacenet.net>
Subject: Re: 307 and 350 Strokes (Crank changing)

>I went yesterday to pick up my 350 Olds crank, which apparently won't
>fit a 307, and I was looking thorught he guy's Crank-book, and it most
>definetely lists ALL 307's and 260's as having a 3.39 Stroke, and 350's
>and 403's using the 3.385 stroke


According to my factory literature, the H.O. 307 in my 442 has:
Bore & Stroke ? 3.800 x 3.385 in.

Sounds like the crank book is in error.

- -Mark Tupper     1987 442    (OCA 30666)
mtupper@palacenet.net     http://cyberglyphs.com/442/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 07:59:26 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Req: Ashtray Cover & Boxed Ctrl. Arm

Hey all,
	As I'm compiling a list of the necessary things for the finish of
the restification I am I need of a few things that could be acquired from a
junk yard, or spare parts bin.

I need:

1.  1970 Olds Glove Box Door (Black)
2.  Ash Tray Cover (Black)
3.  1 Boxed rear Control Arm

I am also in the market for getting some quality sheet metal.  I also need a
pair of fenders.  Has anyone had GOOD experience with any Arizona or other
state sheetmetal yard?  These will bee needed in a month or two, so I'd
appreciate to hear ~ANY~ stories anyone has relating to sheetmetal, used or
new.  Which would one suggest??

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 11:24:17 EST
From: Oldsfire@aol.com
Subject: Re: 307 and 350 Strokes (Crank changing)

Mark, check with Joe Mondello Olds performance at 1103 Paso Robles St. Paso
Robles, Calif.  93446  (805) 237-8808   He is the Olds engine expert!!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 11:29:59 EST
From: Oldsfire@aol.com
Subject: Re: Req: Ashtray Cover & Boxed Ctrl. Arm

Steve Reed:  Try Originality Plus, 8043 Montana Ave.  Rancho Cucamonga, Calif.
91730  (909) 945-5466  They may have your parts and they give a guarantee!!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 11:31:44 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk

sugar and water was an old  hot rod trick for the tires...Hot Rod Harry from
NJ

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 08:27:29 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Mailing list profile?

*ROTFL* That was a good e-mail. Does have a very strong point in it
though.
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 08:32:51 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Rear end Type Question

> Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 18:50:01 -0600
> From: "mbloomer@mindspring.com" <mbloomer@minspring.com>
> Subject: Re: A quick rearend question (Was Rear Springs!)

> Being in a similar situation, my plan is to get a "corporate" 8.5"
> 10 bolt.  These are fairly common (the C type 12 bolts are getting
> expensive and hard to find) and ~cheap~.  Aftermarket posi's are
> abundant and gear selections are everywhere (just not any 2.73's!).
> As far as what will fit, any 68 to 72 A body will work, and most 70 to
> 72's will have them.  They are plenty strong even up past 400 hp=20
> unless you hook hard enough off the line to pull the wheels.

Mike,
	Refresh my memory and tell me the difference between a 'C Type' rear
and a "corporate" 8.5" rear.
I have only repaired/replaced fluids on older rears where you have to remove
a center pin held in by a small hex head bolt, then slide that out and then
take out each C type Clip to remove the axles.  IS this the Typical "C-Type"
Rear?  If so what's the difference between that one and a "Corporate" rear?

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 11:36:48 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Req: Ashtray Cover & Boxed Ctrl. Arm

In a message dated 1/27/99 10:05:38 AM Central Standard Time,
sreed@chatsworth.com writes:

<< Hey all,
 	As I'm compiling a list of the necessary things for the finish of
 the restification I am I need of a few things that could be acquired from a
 junk yard, or spare parts bin.
 
 I need:
 
 1.  1970 Olds Glove Box Door (Black)
 2.  Ash Tray Cover (Black)
 3.  1 Boxed rear Control Arm
 
 I am also in the market for getting some quality sheet metal.  I also need a
 pair of fenders.  Has anyone had GOOD experience with any Arizona or other
 state sheetmetal yard?  These will bee needed in a month or two, so I'd
 appreciate to hear ~ANY~ stories anyone has relating to sheetmetal, used or
 new.  Which would one suggest??
  >>


     Me and a friend just picked up a 70 Cutlass Supreme last week. All we are
interested in is the "tic-toc-tac". and maybe the disc brakes. We only are
interested in 65's, but the price was right (free) as the original owner was
moving to Iowa and had no interest in taking the car with him. 
   The bad: The engine is missing a cylinder head (may be in the trunk...we
dont know), interior is totaly shot (of course), and tailights are cracked.
   The good: all sheetmetal is in above avg. to very good condition, frame has
very little surface rust,  glas and chrome is nice. 

We are located just south of Dallas, and the car is still on the trailer. 

Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 08:38:31 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re: dash pad covers

> Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 20:13:26 -0500
>From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
>Subject: dash pad covers

>My dad called me a moment ago.  He said that on My Classis Car or one of
>those shows he saw a company that sold replacement dash pads.  These are
>supposedly some sort of cover that you can just stick to your old
>cracked pad and make it look new.  These are also availible for door
>panels.  Has anybody heard of these or did anyone see that show?  My
>uncle would like to put this on his L*ncoln's dash pad (better than on
>an Olds) so I would like any info that may be availible.
>Thanks,
>Brian.

Brian,
	I saw this show (Part of it anyway) where they did this to an 80's
series ford P/U.  They did exactly what your dad described.  They sanded
down the rough and cracked spots of the dash (Looked like a southern ride
>>> Clean body for an older truck) and then applied small dabs "Dime Size"
as they said about every 12" along the dash.  The new piece just fit right
on top of the old rottted dash.

I can help ya as far as the company that mfgs them, but you may be able to
contact MCC directly.

BTW:  When is MCC on and is it in TNN?  I miss the show all the time, and I
want to see this week's 68 Olds special!!

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 08:48:31 PST
From: "Lawrence Doty" <pianocraft@hotmail.com>
Subject: 1964 F-85 Engine swapping

I have an 1964, F-85, 225 V-6 with a 2 speed jetaway transmission.
The car has not been driven in the winter until 1997 and at that time 
had 49,000 miles on it.  It has quite a few more miles on it now but no 
serious rust.  The engine was recently driven with a bad oil pump and  
needs a complete rebuild.

My first choice would be to rebuild the existing engine and keep 
everything original.  The main problem with that is getting motor 
mounts.  Because that was an odd engine for that year,  I can't seem to 
find a source for aftermarket engine mounts.  I have tried Hemmings 
motor news, their advertisers, and about 10 local auto parts stores.  
I've tried Buick engine mounts but they hold the engine up too high.  
DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN GET THE RIGHT MOUNTS?

My next choice would be to go to a 330 or a 350 V-8.  Is either of these 
better than the other?  Is one alot easier to install than the other?  
I'm interested in hearing someone's thoughts on this.

My email address is Pianocraft@hotmail.com.  I rebuild pianos for a 
living in case anyone was wondering about the odd address.  

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 08:56:16 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: NON OLDS: Possible list of ALL mailing lists??

Greg,
	Is it possible to get a list of ALL the possible lists one can
subscribe to through the net?  I'm not sure if I'm being real clear here,
but I'd like to see if there is a group/list dedicated to my field of work
(CAD / 3D Solid Modeling)

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 10:01:25 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Maaco (kinda long)

W30442CS@aol.com wrote:
> 
> <snip> you could always try it your self, it may not be a pro. job but
> at least you know the person working on it put forth there best effort. 
<snip>

Your first paint job may not turn out great but it shouldn't flake off or have
large amounts of overspray and you will have learned a lot.  I think the modern
2 stage (base coat/clear coat paints are easier to apply.  Like Steven said,
mostly it just a matter of paying attention and being fussy and since it's your
car you will and you will be:)

I didn't realize Maaco had such a bad rep.  I once had a door skin replaced and
the door painted by them and it wasn't too bad.  Could this be one of those
"every shop is different" situations?  I know that Aamco transmissions are that
way.  The one my dad goes to has checked his tranny several times and adjusted
the kickdown once and never charged him.  The one I went to charged to take the
bottom off, quoted me an unreasonable amount, and then expected me to pay for
the shifter cable they broke putting it back together.  Same name on the door,
different attitudes completely.  Or maybe it's just the guy shooting the
paint.  One guy's putting in time while the next is trying to learn a trade and
move upward.  I donno.

Good luck whatever you decide to do.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 10:34:14 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Mailing list profile?

>A: 1,331:


Good post.  But, just to add, since our list shrunk, I don't think that
there is 1,331 subscribers.  Igor.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 09:44:10 -0800 (PST)
From: Nari Koka <koka10@yahoo.com>
Subject: Computer

On my Delta 88, the computer is not going into diagnostic mode even
when I short circuit the top right two connection points.  It used to
do so until last week.  It was telling me that the TPS is bad.  All I
did was to test the TPS using a volt meeter.  After that, the Check
Engine light does not go off at all and the milage seems to be getting
worse.  Has anyone experienced similar problems with the ECM?  Any
suggestions?  Thanks very much...


Nari
82 Delta 88

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 09:39:16 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 79 Cutlass Radio

> The only problem with going with something newer than 1981
> (+/- one year, not sure of when they changed the physical
> dimensions) is that you'll need the radio trim plate that
> goes around the radio and heater controls to accommodate
> for a bigger radio face that incorporates the radio knobs on
> the radio itself instead of out to the sides like yours

My '82 had the old-style separate knobs on either side, though
when all taken apart it turned out that the steel faceplate it
mounted in was itself removable, leaving a wider opening. Not
sure if this will help you or not. Have you had the '79 AM unit
out yet and examined the faceplate(s) of the dash?

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 13:07:21 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: Mailing list profile?

my guess would be 1,442 ?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 12:54:44 -0600
From: Shang <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: Rear end Type Question

Stephen,

	You are correct. The C-Type axles are the ones that have a C clip
retainer on the axles. The other rearend have a bearing that is pressed
onto the axle itself (as opposed to the axle housing) and is held in
place with an outboard retainer that bolts to the axle flange. From the
mid-60's to the early '70's their were variations of this rearend that
had an 8.2" ring gear and they were designated as B, O, & P. In 1971 (?)
GM made an effort to standardize their rearends by using an 8.5" ring
gear and dubbed it the 8.5" Corporate rearend. However many of these
rearends did have C-clip retainers that came in the Chevrolet cars
(hince another pun for C-type) whereas most others got the non c-clip
style. These rearends can be found in just about any A body from 1971-2
to 1977 and are considerably cheaper than any other rearend.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

Reed, Stephen wrote:
> 
>         Refresh my memory and tell me the difference between a 'C Type' rear
> and a "corporate" 8.5" rear.
> I have only repaired/replaced fluids on older rears where you have to remove
> a center pin held in by a small hex head bolt, then slide that out and then
> take out each C type Clip to remove the axles.  IS this the Typical "C-Type"
> Rear?  If so what's the difference between that one and a "Corporate" rear?
> 
> Steve Reed
> '70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
> Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 13:56:30 -0500
From: "Eckart, Douglas A. SFC" <eckartd@emh.gordon.army.mil>
Subject: list member

To Thomas Martin with the '80 T/A, getting fatal errors trying to send to
you privately.  Phone number or newer email address please.
Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 11:11:35 -0800 (PST)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: OLDS on CNN !!

  I was watching CNN earlier today, and they had a segment on the Olds
88.  They basically talked about the history of Olds(specifically the
88), and how this is the last year of the 88.  They also showed a '99
88 Anniversary eddition.  Wow, what a sharp looking car.  Anyone have
one of those?

==

     Stefan
     1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
     70Cutlass@Beer.com

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 14:07:57 -0600
From: <mljohns2@collins.rockwell.com>
Subject: Re: 79 Cutlass Radio

Correct, the steel face plate that holds the radio in is removable, this
face plate is particular to the type of radio that you use. For example, if
you found a radio out of a 1988 Grand Am that you liked you could use this
radio in your 1979 Cutlass if you found a steel face plate out of a 1988
G-body car. All GM radios are interchangeable, it just depends on how much
work you want to go to.

Expensive:
If you wanted to you could get a factory GM cd player out of a new 1999
Firebird or Camaro (order from the dealership, probably around $500 for the
stereo alone) and then order the wiring harness adapter kit from a local
Stereo place to convert from the modern 24 pin stereo to the older 12 pin
type wiring harness. Then go to your local salvage yard and find a 1986 to
1987 G- body and get the steel face plate that holds the stereo in. Also,
get the stereo mounting brackets that mount the stereo itself to the steel
face plate off of the same donor car. Take your wiring harness adapter and
connect it to your 1979 Cutlass, put on the newer style mounting brackets
on to  your new stereo and plug it into the wiring harness and insert into
the car. Now put on the steel face plate and bolt it all together. Now put
on your trim plate. There ya go, as simple as plug and play.

Cheaper:
You can use the same process for an older stereo out of a mid eighties car.
The plus there is that as long as you don't go beyond 1988 you won't need
the wiring harness adapter. The only thing that you have to remember is
that to remember what year of GM car the stereo came out of because you
will have to go and get the correct trim plate and steel mounting plate and
stereo mounting brackets out of the same year G-body.



Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

To:   oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
cc:
Subject:  Re: 79 Cutlass Radio




> The only problem with going with something newer than 1981
> (+/- one year, not sure of when they changed the physical
> dimensions) is that you'll need the radio trim plate that
> goes around the radio and heater controls to accommodate
> for a bigger radio face that incorporates the radio knobs on
> the radio itself instead of out to the sides like yours

My '82 had the old-style separate knobs on either side, though
when all taken apart it turned out that the steel faceplate it
mounted in was itself removable, leaving a wider opening. Not
sure if this will help you or not. Have you had the '79 AM unit
out yet and examined the faceplate(s) of the dash?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 13:45:44 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming

I ask my mentor eng builder (he is about a 100 years old) he uses an
assembly lube and says he used to use vaseline but if the eng sits to long
before start up (months) the vaseline can get a little hard.


- -----Original Message-----
From: Reed, Stephen <sreed@chatsworth.com>
To: 'Olds' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, January 27, 1999 7:33 AM
Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming


>> Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 15:24:06 -0500
>> From: "Ken" <olds442@en.com>
>> Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming
>
>> Yank the distributor out, put a 1/4" drive 3/8 socket on a 6 inch
>extension.
>> Put it over the oil pump shaft.  put the other end of the extension in
the
>> drill chuck.  A variable speed drill would be best.  Run the drill till
>oil
>> comes out of the tops of the pushrods.  Your motor is primed.  Toss the
>> distributor back in put the valve covers on and fire it up..   That way
>you
>> can save your Vaseline for other things..
>
>What I was referring to was not necessarrily the act of 'Priming' an engine
>itself, but to help aid the brand new pump start the 'Pickup' of new
fluids.
>
>When I Prime any engine (After Rebuild), I just remove the coil wire from
>distributor cap, and ground it via jumper wire.  I then proceed to turn the
>engine over until I get oil pressure for a minute or 2.  The fuel is also
>blocked at this point.  Why bother with removing the distributor and all
>that garbage.
>
>Steve Reed
>'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
>Austin, TX
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 15:54:11 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Mailing list profile?

me too!
see url at http://www.sackofnuts.com

Don't you mean, "But you forgot ~that~ every other..."

I changed a lite bulb once; let me share my experience...

This is not appropriate for the Olds List.  All cars have light bulbs,
please take this discussion privately!

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass (hibernating)
84 Calais ($200!)
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo


Ha Ha, very good. But you forgot the every other one that includes a chevy
bashing comment in their light bulb .02.
So that would make 1996.5 list subscribers needed to change a light bulb.

Omega man

'74 Omega S 455
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 15:29:37 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming

Just get a priming tool and prime the motor with a power drill and the
tool. Like this oil will reach all areas except piston walls. The oil will
even make its way up to the rocker arms if you prime it long enough.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: DYeager535@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming
> Date: Tuesday, January 26, 1999 2:16 PM
> 
> In a message dated 1/26/99 11:59:33 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> sreed@chatsworth.com writes:
> 
> << Since there has been a little chatter regarding the usage of Vaseline,
I
>  just thought I'd share my knowledge bestowed upon me by my gear head
>  professor in Tech College.  He always recommended removing the plate off
a
>  new oil pump and packing the gears with Vaseline.  It help with picking
up
>  the oil in a brand new pump.  There is absolutely no oil in there on a
fresh
>  rebuild, and it takes a while to actually pick up any oil to recirculate
>  through the engine, and the Vaseline acts as a 'Prime'.  It also breaks
down
>  at 100' F so it's no big deal >>
> 
>        Steve, I have heard this before. I understand lubing the gears on
> initial startup, just a good idea. My question is, if there is no oil in
the
> oil pump at startup, how does oil ever make it's way up there? Maybe I
> misunderstand the pickup system, but the way I look at it, the gears HAVE
to
> be immersed in oil at startup, or they would have to be primed every
time. I
> can't see how oil would be picked up through the tube by the stock
setup..it's
> just two gears forcing fluid upwards by their meshing, correct? How would
the
> oil get up the pickup? Just curious, Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 16:49:51 EST
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: wanted: black 69 cutlass GB door

mike i sent the glove box door out tuesday morning.  let me know what your
friend thinks of it and how the car turns out.  hate to see a good car get
messed up!     steven, w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 13:55:09 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: M21 or M22 Behind ~Worked~ 455

Hey all,
	I've got a question.  Would you be happy with an M21 behind a worked
(Street/Strip) 455, or would you steer toward the M22.  I have both, but
right now my Crank is set up (Pilot bushing wise) for the M21.

Has ~anyone~ ever busted up an M21? Wouldn't the drivetrain go first (Yoke,
U-Joints, Driveshaft)???

I'd like to hear any opinions, real life experiences.

THANX

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 17:04:04 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: dash pad covers

Nope, these are vinyl or plastic.  I found them last night in JC Whitney
after I sent the original message.  Again, I am just glad it is not
going in my any one of my cars.
Brian. 

JonKrisInc@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 1/26/99 8:14:29 PM EST, cshankle@home.com writes:
> 
> << My dad called me a moment ago.  He said that on My Classis Car or one of
>  those shows he saw a company that sold replacement dash pads.  These are
>  supposedly some sort of cover that you can just stick to your old
>  cracked pad and make it look new.  These are also availible for door
>  panels.  Has anybody heard of these or did anyone see that show?  My
>  uncle would like to put this on his L*ncoln's dash pad (better than on
>  an Olds) so I would like any info that may be availible.
>  Thanks, >>
> 
> Brian,
> If they're the ones that are "carpeted" don't waste your money. I had one and
> it looked like a bad toupee It now serves as door mat in my garage. Of 
course,
> that's just IMHO. I could be wrong.
> Bruce
> 75 Delta 88 Conv. (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 12:40:52 -0500
From: "jlabay" <jlabay@neo.rr.com>
Subject: Classic Car Insurance

I need some advice as to what is the best Classic Car Insurance company out
there.  I want to get my 80 442 W-30 on classic car insurance since my
current insurance company will only insure it as an 80 Cutlass.  Do most
require appraisals? If so who is the best to appraise it? I am not too
familiar with the insurance terminology such as stated, vesus, actual, etc
when insuring a classic.  Any advice would be appreciated.

Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio
80 442 W-30
75 H/O W-25
72 Cutlass Supreme...R.I.P.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 17:10:58 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: dash pad covers

Thanks, since I didn't see the spot myself I had questions about how
they looked.  That should be good enough, because it is a Lincoln, and
the only thing going for it is the Fuel Injected 5.0, and that's still a
stretch.
Brian.

David L Wyatt wrote:
> 
> I saw the spot on Shade Tree Mechanic about the dash pads and door panel
> covers.  The dash pads appeared to be some type of thin plastic.  They are
> lightly glued over the original pad like a second skin.  The door panels were
> the same  material and are applied the same way.  The next week they used
> another one of the dash covers on another vehicle.  While they did "clean up"
> the dash and look fine on a daily driver, I can't imagine using them on a 
nice
> older car.  Just Dashes will re-skin your original pad for a substantial
> amount, but the results are worth it for a restored vehicle.
> 
> My $.02
> Dave Wyatt
> 70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 17:10:41 EST
From: Oldsfire@aol.com
Subject: Re: M21 or M22 Behind ~Worked~ 455

Steve Reed   Why do you think that the M21 got the nickname "Rockcrusher"???

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 17:18:54 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: dash pad covers

It's on TNN but I couldn't tell you what time.  I usually just turn on
the preview channel around 1:00 Eastern and look for it.  It is usually
in the block with Hot Rod TV and others.  I think they rerun Saturday's
shows sometimes on Sunday

Reed, Stephen wrote:
> 
> > Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 20:13:26 -0500
> >From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
> >Subject: dash pad covers
> 
> >My dad called me a moment ago.  He said that on My Classis Car or one of
> >those shows he saw a company that sold replacement dash pads.  These are
> >supposedly some sort of cover that you can just stick to your old
> >cracked pad and make it look new.  These are also availible for door
> >panels.  Has anybody heard of these or did anyone see that show?  My
> >uncle would like to put this on his L*ncoln's dash pad (better than on
> >an Olds) so I would like any info that may be availible.
> >Thanks,
> >Brian.
> 
> Brian,
>         I saw this show (Part of it anyway) where they did this to an 80's
> series ford P/U.  They did exactly what your dad described.  They sanded
> down the rough and cracked spots of the dash (Looked like a southern ride
> >>> Clean body for an older truck) and then applied small dabs "Dime Size"
> as they said about every 12" along the dash.  The new piece just fit right
> on top of the old rottted dash.
> 
> I can help ya as far as the company that mfgs them, but you may be able to
> contact MCC directly.
> 
> BTW:  When is MCC on and is it in TNN?  I miss the show all the time, and I
> want to see this week's 68 Olds special!!
> 
> Steve Reed
> '70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
> Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 17:26:36 EST
From: Dan442Olds@aol.com
Subject: Woodgrain

I need the woodgrain for the dash and console for my 70 442.  Does anyone know
who may be producing these?
Thanks,

Dan

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 17:28:03 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: M21 or M22 Behind ~Worked~ 455

M22 is the Rock Crusher....the M21 should take the abuse....I have done 12s in
the 1/4 with a 69 W30 I had and I never had a problem....22s are noisy...Hot
Rod Harry from NJ <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">1973
Olds Cutlass 455 4speed</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 17:28:54 -0500
From: "John Richmond" <richmond@tir.com>
Subject: Oldsmobile 88 is retired

This was in the online news today at work. Thought you guys would
want to be informed.


>>General Motors officially retired the Oldsmobile 88, the Detroit News
reported today. After 50 years of production, the Olds 88 was America's
longest continuous car brand. Ten million 88s were built before the last one
rolled off the assembly line Jan. 6 at the Orion (Orion Township, Mich.)
Assembly Plant. GM introduced the Futuramic 88 convertible in 1949
with the slogan, "Make a date with the Rocket 88."

John Richmond
richmond@tir.com  or  jwr10@daimlerchrysler.com
http://www.tir.com/~richmond/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 17:33:04 EST
From: CARMAN442@aol.com
Subject: Re: FS 66-69 Cutlass/4-4-2 parts

looking for a  set of  d heads to restore a 1969 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 14:35:58 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: My board

List,

Here is a guy with a olds/non-olds question. Hopefully someone can
help him out. Please respond to MicGP40@aol.com since he is not on the
list. Thanks...


I have a 79 t/a with an Olds 403. I have available an Olds 455 f 
     block and C heads. Has anyone done this swap? What problems 
     might I encounter? Any response will be appreciated. 




==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 14:40:33 -0800
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: dash pad covers

Just Dashes did my 66 fullsize dash for $450 which sounds like a lot, and
is, but then you see it every time you get in the car.

Worth it to me and the results are excellent. Better than new if you ask me.


Not associated with them,etc., etc., just a happy customer

cf

> > older car.  Just Dashes will re-skin your original pad for 
> a substantial amount, but the results are worth it for a restored vehicle.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 17:34:01 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: Classic Car Insurance

most classic car insurance companies only cover you somtimes.  like if you
were taking your car to the shop, riding in a parade, or going to the parts
store.  i'm not sure if all places are like this.

mikeytvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 15:58:28 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: FS 66-69 Cutlass/4-4-2 parts

Sorry, no D's laying around here.  

A friend of mine has a '69 W-30 and he says that the Canadian car (made in
Lansing for export to Canada) came with 1 D head and a ? head.  From what he
said I inferred that the D has a blocked heat riser or something and the other
head heated the carb. on cold Canadian days.  So was he janking my chain or
what? 
Good luck on the W machine. 

CARMAN442@aol.com wrote:
> 
> looking for a  set of  d heads to restore a 1969 W-30
- -- 

Cliff "suffering from W envy" Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 17:46:56 EST
From: CARMAN442@aol.com
Subject: Re: FS 66-69 Cutlass/4-4-2 parts

looking for a set of d heads to restore a 1969 w-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 16:12:23 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Classic Car Insurance

I have classic insurance on both of my cars.  You need an appraisal first so
you contact fellow Olds people in your area and find out who they recommend. 
Most appraisers charge about 50 loonies ($33 in real money).  I've found that
appraisals do vary so you may want to get a second one if you feel that the
first one was too low.  And talk to the guy and find out what he doesn't like
about your car, it may be a small thing that you can change or it may help if
you can prove you have an original part that is not on the car.  I believe that
one of our cars went up $3,000 between two appraisals with no work done.

The insurance I have covers me to take the car to and from events, repair
places, fellow collectors houses, and "special events".  The special events
include anniversary dinners, funerals, etc. so it's seems to be a broad
definition.  I'm _never_ supposed to take it to work and I'm need to get their
OK if it's going to exceed 2,000 miles/year.  Special usage like a 4,000 mile
vacation may be bought on a case-by-case basis for about 50 loonies.

If you can live with those limits there are some real pluses like having all
your parts covered with the car.  If an engine sitting on my garage floor is
stolen they will replace it:) and you don't have the hassle of worrying that a
$2,000 accident will write off your car.

I can't recall if the cost is 100 loonies for one or both cars.

Mikeytvb@aol.com wrote:
> 
> most classic car insurance companies only cover you somtimes.  like if you
> were taking your car to the shop, riding in a parade, or going to the parts
> store.  i'm not sure if all places are like this.
> 
> mikeytvb@aol.com

- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 18:29:18 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: wanted: black 69 cutlass GB door

W30442CS@aol.com wrote:
> 
> mike i sent the glove box door out tuesday morning.  let me know what your
> friend thinks of it and how the car turns out.  hate to see a good car get
> messed up!     steven, w30442cs@aol.com


Tell me about it. He wanted MINE!  hahaha.  Mine's perfect, but I will
need it.  It sucks that some low lifes have nothing better to do than to
crash out peoples windows and break into their cars and mess up an
otherwise pristine classic! His car has a tad over 100K on it, but the
car still has the origianal paint and is always garaged. Looks almost
new! 
Thanks again!
Mike

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 18:32:29 -0500
From: "jlabay" <jlabay@neo.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Classic Car Insurance

That sounds good. Yeah I will plan on 2 or maybe 3 appraisals.  Since I
bought my 442 back in late 1996 I drove it 410 miles the first year and 110
last year. I won't have to worry about the mileage :-) Now I just need to
find a good appraiser.  Thanks

Jason Labay
80 442 W-30

- ->I have classic insurance on both of my cars.  You need an appraisal first
so
>you contact fellow Olds people in your area and find out who they
recommend.
>Most appraisers charge about 50 loonies ($33 in real money).  I've found
that
>appraisals do vary so you may want to get a second one if you feel that the
>first one was too low.  And talk to the guy and find out what he doesn't
like
>about your car, it may be a small thing that you can change or it may help
if
>you can prove you have an original part that is not on the car.  I believe
that
>one of our cars went up $3,000 between two appraisals with no work done.
>>--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 18:13:34 EST
From: CARMAN442@aol.com
Subject: Re: FS 66-69 Cutlass/4-4-2 parts

 First time I ever heard of two different heads on an engine. I think your
chain has  has  no slack left in it!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 18:49:00 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: D head/? head

>  First time I ever heard of two different heads on an engine. I think your
> chain has  has  no slack left in it!

Actually, the claim MAY not be totally inconcievable.  Probably came
with D heads from the factory, but a misfortunate head crack, or
something else may have come early in that poor engine's life, and a
replacement head was put on, without regard to matching the port/chamber
size.  Probably a C head, which isn't all that bad really.  However,
keep this in mind, that each of the 69 "D" heads had ONE exhaust port
available for x-over in the heat riser region.  So the blocked off heat
riser part doesn't hold water.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 19:12:32 -0500
From: "Michael Davis" <mdavis@metrobankandtrust.com>
Subject: Re: Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)

I have personalized plates in OH for my 68' 442.  The plate reads: "OLDS
68"
					Mike Davis
					68' 442

- ----------
> From: C. Casteel <earthsci@pop.usit.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)
> Date: Tuesday, January 26, 1999 8:58 AM
> 
> Well, it's now time to renew the license plate for the '68 442 conv.
Since I
> can actually drive it now, I thought it'd be nice to order a personalized
> plate. 
> 
> Anyone have any good suggestions for this car? BTW, it's triple black and
> now has a 455.
> 
> TIA.
> 

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1737
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