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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1743


oldsmobile-digest     Saturday, January 30 1999     Volume 01 : Number 1743



Re: 73 H/O
Re: 73 H/O
Re: UNBOUNCE: 86 cutlass gauges
Re: Crank Interchange
Re: 73 H/O
Re: Ram Air Hood - Repro- info
Re: Ram Air Hood - Repro- info
A Good Book
front end
Re: Getting my Toro tomorrow!!!
Re: USED HEADERS
Re: 73 H/O
RE: Vaseline Talk, etc.
Re: front end ( long )
Re: Ram Air Hood - Repro- info
Annual Lansing Olds
Re: Annual Lansing Olds
FS: 67 Vista Cruiser & 1965 Cutlass two door hardtop
Where is everybody?
Re: 73 H/O
Re: 73 H/O
Re: Vaseline Talk, etc.
Re: Where is everybody?
Re: Getting my Toro tomorrow!!!
Re: 73 H/O
Re: 73 H/O
Re: 73 H/O
Parts FS
Re: 73 H/O
Re: Where is everybody?
Bench to Buckets Swap????????
Re: Getting my Toro tomorrow!!!
Die in style!!!!!!
Re: Engine Detailing
Re: front end(long)
Re: Bench to Buckets Swap????????
Re: Bench to Buckets Swap????????
Re: USED HEADERS
Re: Parts FS
66-400 Price
Re: 66-400 Price
Re: Need a solution to my Key problem
Test
Got the Toro
RE: Got the Toro
Quarter Panel Installation Expensive?
Re: Got the Toro
Re: Got the Toro
Re: Quarter Panel Installation Expensive?
Re: front end(long)
Primming of Engine
Re: Oldsmobile (70-72 W-Machine Cutlass Convert) In Moive
Re: USED HEADERS
Re: Primming of Engine
US body source hood

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 00:20:36 EST
From: W451973@aol.com
Subject: Re: 73 H/O

uh, harry. how many 73 ho`s have you owned? i have had 6 myself. been into 73
for about 12 years now. got into them because noone else was. just because the
car, which ever body style it is, has a 4 speed, that does not mean it
automaticly had a dual snorkal. ONLY the L-77 engine had this. this is denoted
by  the lettrer V as the fifth digit in the vin. yes you are correct in
stating that the HO is the only one available with the L-77 and an automatic
trans. this would have a high stall converter along with the same cam, heads,
intake, carb, and dual snorkal air cleaner as your car has. indeed you have a
very uniqe and sweet car there. a very odd combonation indeed. but you still
need to work on the facts a little. i know you have owned quite a bit of
muscle cars, i can match you. mine were not all perfect by no means, but i
have been around these long enough. also the 74 aircleaner is not the same as
the 73. the 74 has a notch in the front to clear the water neck. thats because
the aircleaner was moved forward to clear the optional HEI that was available.
i dont wish to argue but i dont like to be corrected with wrong information.
for the record, i own 2 73 HURSTOLDS. 1 air W45 car and 1 nonair W46 car. both
black. my air car was an original owner, with documentation. i hope this
doesnt start any problems. i just wanted to get the facts straight. take care.
dennis      w451973

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 00:34:00 EST
From: W451973@aol.com
Subject: Re: 73 H/O

try this, its just pictures of a 73 HO for sale.
http://www.net-a-car.com/cars/V7835.HTML-SSI
dennis    w451973

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 19:41:51 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: 86 cutlass gauges

> I have two wires left over from the old setup which
> appear to be illumination

If it's gray, it is.

> I know I have to run a new wire for
> the tach but do I also have to run one for the new oil
> pressure sender? 

If you swapped out the pressure warning light switch for
the new pressure sending unit, you can reuse the old wire.

> There are two under there that are really close to each other.

If you have separate sensors for the HOT light and temperature
input to the computer, the HOT light switch (to be replaced by
the sending unit) would be a simple single-wire lead; the
computer sensor is probably a two-wire twisted-pair lead that
you leave alone.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 01:40:23 EST
From: Stakin@aol.com
Subject: Re: Crank Interchange

In a message dated 99-01-29 20:25:44 EST, you write:

<< Does the crank out of a '64 olds 330 motor interchange with the 403? This
crank I understand is Forged vs. the cast in the 403. Need to know if the
balance would be the same as well as journals etc. being the same. Thanks Tim
Wurtz >>

Unfortunatly Olds decided to change the flywheel bolt pattern in 68. With that
being said and many moons of looking for a 67 and earlier 4 speed flywheel,
keep that in mind.

Joe Stackman

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 02:17:45 EST
From: DrkSole96@aol.com
Subject: Re: 73 H/O

In a message dated 1/29/99 7:05:05 PM Central Standard Time,
RmeCbtEngr@aol.com writes:

<< thanks for the answer on the vinly top , 
 heres the vin : 3G37U3M398276
 any sites online with pictures that you know of ?
  >>
Well, you can see pics of a 73 at
http://members.aol.com/cutlascoup/index.html.
Your VIN decodes like this, I'm pretty sure,
3=Oldsmobile
G=Cutlass S
37=2dr Coupe	
U=L75+M40 trans. (455 4bbl.+Th400 250 hp@4000, 370lb.-ft.@2100)
3=1973
M=Lansing, MI
398276=Sequential Production Number

Hope this helps.  I got the engine power information from the Dealer specs
booklet that I got with my Olds Historical Center packet.  I was quite pleased
with the info they sent, though I didn't receive a picture of my model car.  
Does your H/O have the digitcal tach?  I used to know a guy that had one, but
the tach didn't work.  Very cool car though.

DrkSole96@aol.com
73 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 01:28:38 -0600 (CST)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Kevin D. Wood)
Subject: Re: Ram Air Hood - Repro- info

- --WebTV-Mail-629734200-1427
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Bill.  That was their street hood.  It did have mounting studs for
hinges.  Like I said though, that was 10 years ago too.  I will do some
more
checking, that's for sure!

Kevin


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Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 23:55:32 EST
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
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Subject: Re: Ram Air Hood - Repro- info
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In a message dated 1/29/1999 9:20:52 PM Eastern Standard Time, Dr-
Olds@webtv.net writes:

<<  Did the original hoods have the standard hood latch as well as the hold
down chrome twist-pins?  I guess I just assumed that the twist latches were
all that  was needed.   >>

Yep, they did.

<< I imagine that the hood I received would be waving in the breeze had I kept
it. >>

Did you get a street hood, or race hood??

Bill K 

- --WebTV-Mail-629734200-1427--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 01:55:29 -0600
From: <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: Ram Air Hood - Repro- info

I am interested in hearing more about this. I had heard that they were
producing very good quality hoods and fenders (US Body Source). I was
planning on using their products when I did the body on my '70 this
fall.

Let us know!

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

"Kevin D. Wood" wrote:
> 
> Bill.  That was their street hood.  It did have mounting studs for
> hinges.  Like I said though, that was 10 years ago too.  I will do some
> more
> checking, that's for sure!
> 
> Kevin
> 
>   ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Re: Ram Air Hood - Repro- info
> Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 23:55:32 EST
> From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
> Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> 
> In a message dated 1/29/1999 9:20:52 PM Eastern Standard Time, Dr-
> Olds@webtv.net writes:
> 
> <<  Did the original hoods have the standard hood latch as well as the hold
> down chrome twist-pins?  I guess I just assumed that the twist latches were
> all that  was needed.   >>
> 
> Yep, they did.
> 
> << I imagine that the hood I received would be waving in the breeze had I 
kept
> it. >>
> 
> Did you get a street hood, or race hood??
> 
> Bill K
.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 03:18:59 EST
From: GaryDW30@aol.com
Subject: A Good Book

List

I just received a copy of: OLDSMOBILE 442 & W-Machines Restoration Guide
Anyone who doesn't have a copy I recommend it. Lots of specs. photos and
numbers.

I got mine from fellow list member Roger Utter at GraphixRus@aol.com

Gary
69 W-30 4-speed
(Ol'Blue)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 01:45:22 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: front end

I need some assistance with my front end rebuild. I have the poly
graphite bushings. I need a tear down and reassembly discussion. I'm
gonna break into it tomorrow morning, but need to get some guidance so I
don't miss a thing and get it done right. I don't want any squeeking (my
car's too loud to hear it anyhow...) and I want it tight and smooth.
Where to start and finish on each side, lessons learned from doing it
before. Remove this even though it says not to sorta guidance... Any
suggestions, pictures, web sites, diagrams... It all will h@!p a great
deal.

thanks, Ben
68 Olds 442

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 01:03:08 PST
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Getting my Toro tomorrow!!!

Hi,

I almost bought a Jag 383 conversion a few years ago.  I am glad I 
didn't.  I love my '66 Delta 88.  It is also, not cherry, but a good 
daily driver.  It was 98% straight up until last year.  It was rear 
ended sitting in front of my house.

Anyway, it is scheduled to get straightened and painted by this summer, 
hopefully.  Pretty easy to restore.  It is 425V8, new front end and 
drives like a dream.  I get lots of compliments even though it is a 
little beat up.  I can barely wait til it is done.

Just my $.02,

PS I saw a jag conversion in the paper the other day only $3300.

Chris Rivier
Austin,TX
'66 Delta 88...The BEAST is BACK!
'88 Festiva...ZIPPY 166K LAWN ORNAMENT!


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 07:17:58 -0400
From: Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: Re: USED HEADERS

I have a pair of used headers as well.  They were on my 69 442 BB and are in 
good
condition (no holes, no rust).  When I took them off, I cleaned them an 
painted them
with white header paint to preserve them.  I need $30.  I live in the Niagara
Falls/Buffalo area.  I expect shipping would be expensive due to weight and 
bulk.
Wayne Schwartz

Matt Cremean wrote:

> J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts wrote:
> >
> > Igor
> >
> >         I have a used set of 455 headers for a 68-72 Cutlass. How's $20.00 
plus
> > shipping to you. The are in good condition, not all rusted up.
>
> Wait a second, Jim!!!! Got any deals like THAT for me (except in sb
> form)??????
>
> --
> ***********
> Matt Cremean
> mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
> ***********************
> '70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
> '73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
> '75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
> http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
> *******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 13:20:05 -0600
From: "Charles A. Dempsey" <cdemps@lsumc.edu>
Subject: Re: 73 H/O

W451973@aol.com wrote:
 
>  The air cleaner will be easy to
> get, its nothing special unless it has the L-77 engine, then youll have a
> problem. This had a dual snorkel wich was only available on the L-77 in 73
> only. Where are you from?

Hi Dennis, 

I'm not the original poster, but I also have a '73 H/O. Mine came with
an aftermarket manifold (Edelbrock Torquer), carb (Holly doublepumper)
and air cleaner (also Edelbrock). I would like to acquire the original
parts for restoration. Could you tell me what the parts look like and/or
the casting number from your manifold and carb number. I understand that
this car was delivered with a 2bbl!

Also, does your hood ornament say "Hurst Olds" or "Oldsmobile"?

Thanks,
Charles

White '73 H/O

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 14:28:30 -0600
From: "Charles A. Dempsey" <cdemps@lsumc.edu>
Subject: RE: Vaseline Talk, etc.

RARE73OLDS@aol.com wrote:

> as for the taking the distributor and
> spinning oil pump after an oil change that was a low blow to 
> whom ever gave the idea of the drill...They are just trying to 
> help...

If I stepped on anyone's toes I am most sincerely sorry. I posted this
late last night and, at that time, it seemed that some of these
first-start procedures were getting a bit far fetched.

First-start is always a magical moment. Personally I like to strip
naked, put 20-50W in my hair, paint my genetalia orange, and dance about
the shop with wild abandon ;-).

> I dont have 0.02 cents

C'mon, let's be pals.

Charles

'73 H/O

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 09:16:28 EST
From: OldsClub@aol.com
Subject: Re: front end ( long )

Ben,
	I just replaced the front springs on my 68 442 using the original 68
Oldsmobile service manual from Fusick. Unlike after market manuals from Hayes,
etc., it was very accurate. You might also get the assembly manual (the manual
used to assemble the car at the factory). Follow the directions exactly as in
the manual and you'll be fine. 
	One tip: you don't need the special GM tool to compress the springs. 
Get a
standard spring compressor (not the type used for struts ), feed the end of
the compressor without the bolt head into the spring through the shock mount
and hook it on as far up as you can reach. The lower end of the compressor
probably won't fit into the hole but that's OK. Adjust the lower end of the
compressor against the control arm so that when you tighten the spring you are
tightening it against the control arm (as per the manual ). Then remove the
bolts holding the control arm and let it down. This sounds easy but it may
take a lot of lube and hammering to get the bolts out. Then release the
tension on the spring and pull the bottom end out from the control arm. 
	Installation of the spring is a bit tricky. It helps to have a small 
scissors
or bottle jack to assist you in attaching the control arm. The spring needs to
be set properly against the frame and control arm but while you are trying to
get the control arm in place the spring will "move" out of place. Start
getting the spring in a position that's close to where it should be in the
frame. Next, get the spring exactly where it should be against the control
arm. Reinstall the compressor and put enough tension on the spring to hold it
in place on the control arm. Use the jack to raise the control arm until the
spring touches the frame. Line the spring up in the frame and then raise the
control arm up a bit more. Then, compress the spring enough to release the
tension against the frame but not so much that it falls out of place against
the frame. Repeat the process until the control arm can be held by the bolts.
Start the nuts but don't torque them up yet. Make sure the spring is still in
the right place on the frame and release the compressor. When you get the car
on the ground torque the bolts on the control arm. 
	The manual says installation is the opposite of removal. Right.

Most of this may seem unclear until you start so if you have any questions
Email me privately and I'll help all I can. I hope it goes well!


Jim 
68 442
ruddone@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 08:29:19 -0600 (CST)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Kevin D. Wood)
Subject: Re: Ram Air Hood - Repro- info

Anybody know if US Body Source has a webpage?  I don't have a catalog
from them...
I suppose I could dig through old magazines and find it, but maybe you's
guyz know!

Thanks
Kevin
1972 Cutlass Supreme.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 09:51:31 -0500
From: Kevin Hoopingarner <khooping@bright.net>
Subject: Annual Lansing Olds

All,

I am unable to make it to Dallas this year but I heard that annualy
there is a get together in Lansing.  Show, swap, etc.....  Can't find
anything in my JWO (or anywhere else for that matter) regarding this and
was wondering if this truly is the case. If so,  I'd like to get the
dates.

TIA

Kevin Hoopingarner
'70 Olds 442 W-30
Findlay OH.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 09:57:55 -0500
From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: Re: Annual Lansing Olds

Kevin Hoopingarner wrote:
> 
> All,
> 
> I am unable to make it to Dallas this year but I heard that annualy
> there is a get together in Lansing.  Show, swap, etc.....  Can't find
> anything in my JWO (or anywhere else for that matter) regarding this and
> was wondering if this truly is the case. If so,  I'd like to get the
> dates.
> 
> TIA
> 
> Kevin Hoopingarner
> '70 Olds 442 W-30
> Findlay OH.


	Kevin,

	The Olds "Homecoming Show" is June 19th and is at the Old Delta plant,
don't know exactly where that is, I was told it's about 5 miles from the
old Olds Headquarters.

         ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
               Mark Cornea (Dr. Decal)  OCA# 4903
                             1970 W30 (red)

                      mailto:drdecal@wwnet.net
                      mailto:mcornea@ford.com

                    Visit http://www.drdecal.com
        ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 10:23:40 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: FS: 67 Vista Cruiser & 1965 Cutlass two door hardtop

From the newsgroups...

If interested, contact them directly, NOT TO ME OR THE LIST.


>67 Vista Cruiser. Clean original car. Gold original paint with cream colored
>original interior. Factory A/C, PB, PS.
>
>Car located in San Jose, CA.

>Price is $2,500.
>
>Call 408-432-8498 days
>      925-417-6774 eves



>1965 Cutlass two door hardtop. 68k original miles. Red original paint with 
mint
>black bucket seat interior with consol. Excellent example of a garage kept, 
one
>owner car. $4,500.
>
>Car located in San Jose, CA.
>
>Call 408-432-8498 days
>     925-417-6774 eves

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 09:36:16 -0600 (CST)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Kevin D. Wood)
Subject: Where is everybody?

Ok this may not be directly an Olds question,
but here goes...

WHERE IS EVERYBODY!

I just joined this list a few days ago and the first
couple of days I got bomb-biggidy-barded with
email, and now on this fine, sunny Saturday
everybody is gone!

I'm going over to my storage area and look
at my Cutlass right now- and anybody else
in the snowcovered world whose car is stored,
you ought to do the same...  Go look at it, and
get excited again- spring will be here sometime
in the next few months and gosh-darnit I can't
wait anymore!

I have gotten ideas from some of you on the
Exhaust System and the Ram Air Hood I will
be installing by spring, but now I am addicted
to Olds info...

So anyway- get into it!  I want to see hundreds
of happy emails when I get back.  Somebody
said there were 1300 people on this list and
somebody else mentioned 500-something.
I don't know how you tell, but I think everybody
has something to say- you wouldn't be subscribed if you didn't think you
had something
to offer or learn.

Much Happiness Olds Folks.

A new subscriber- with high hopes,

Kevin D. Wood
Hartford, WI
Dr-Olds@webtv.net
or kevwood@webtv.net

)<<{{}}'>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 10:40:13 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 73 H/O

If you wanted to get the facts straight check my site out and you will see my
car has a " V ' code in the VIN number  MR know it all...I think its time for
you to learn alittle more too...I know I am not perfect either ,so lets just
team up and help the new comers to the forgotten years...the Hurst with the
L77auto. is the Stick motor that Olds Had...   
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">1973 Olds Cutlass 455
4speed</A> Here is my site just click on the blue..8,900 original miles ,
window sticker still on car and everything is orig.  Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 10:42:18 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 73 H/O

Also ,,, I love those 73 Hurst Olds...enjoy...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 10:43:48 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk, etc.

no prob on the oilpump thing....Olds' rule

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 08:57:11 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Where is everybody?

"Kevin D. Wood" wrote:
> 
> WHERE IS EVERYBODY!

Well here I is:)

I was just writing to a guy I bought a '68 sales brochure from to
find out where it is.  Put away my copy of the money order for the
trunk trim piece for a '69 442 (happy as a pig in sheeet about
finding it).

Next I'm going to the post office to pick up a money order for
another Olds part.  Then I'm going out to my parents to fix the door
on the shed where my Olds is, give her some gas, check if I'm
missing the parts I think I am, and then cover her up.

I guess everyone else is just as busy doing Olds stuff.

- -- 
Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

PS: when I get back tonight I need to re-install Win95, Office 97,
Communicator, upgrade Explorer, etc.  Much less fun than working on
my car:( but required if I want to keep reading the list from home.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 11:34:43 EST
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: Getting my Toro tomorrow!!!

what is a jag conversion


olds guy ga

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 11:36:46 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 73 H/O

all four speed 455s in 73 came with the dual snorkel air cleaner...the high
performance 455 in 73 only came with the 4spd.(from the Olds factory) Except
if you Ordered the Legendary Hurst Olds with the L77 motor which came with the
automatic. Not all 4spds came with the dual snorkel aircleaner  as 350s were
available with the four speed...I do appoligize on the Mr Know it all
comment..I just felt a little PO'd that his reply to me went on the
list...thats all...Your 73s sound real nice!!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 11:56:15 EST
From: RmeCbtEngr@aol.com
Subject: Re: 73 H/O

thanks for the info   i really appreciate it 

 NO on the tach  :-(  i wish it had one   maybe the boy wouldnt of blowed the
motor up then ,

  also can you tell me about the stripes ,  mine are decals except on the hood
and front grill they are paint  and i seen a pic.  where the stripe ended on
the hood , mine goes down between the grills ?  Has mine been altered that
much ? 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 11:58:08 EST
From: RmeCbtEngr@aol.com
Subject: Re: 73 H/O

my ornament  says Oldsmobile on both sides  

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 11:58:59 -0500
From: toddmorr@us.ibm.com
Subject: Parts FS

Need to clean out the basement.  Following are FS, I'm in the Wash, DC
metro area:

2 green bucket seats, great shape, $50 each
W/Z exhaust manifolds, one has hairline crack, $75 pair
console, black, missing some parts, $75
455 intake manifold, $25
black bucket seat backs, $10
Hurst shifter, includes chrome handle and ball, $70
Muncie 4 sp, close ratio core, (2nd gear cluster is bad) $150
442 Glove box door, with wood trim, $25

Couldn't say for sure, but these parts ought to fit your 68-72 Cutlass/442.
Office number is (301) 803-1658, home is (301) 530-7430.

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 12:04:30 EST
From: DrkSole96@aol.com
Subject: Re: 73 H/O

In a message dated 1/30/99 10:58:49 AM Central Standard Time,
RmeCbtEngr@aol.com writes:

<< thanks for the info   i really appreciate it 
 
  NO on the tach  :-(  i wish it had one   maybe the boy wouldnt of blowed the
 motor up then ,
 
   also can you tell me about the stripes ,  mine are decals except on the
hood
 and front grill they are paint  and i seen a pic.  where the stripe ended on
 the hood , mine goes down between the grills ?  Has mine been altered that
 much ? 
   >>
I think the stripes were all decals.  The hood stripe should end on the header
panel, but it doesn't go all the way between the grill to the bumper.

DrkSole96@aol.com
73 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 10:13:12 -0700
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Where is everybody?

> I'm going over to my storage area and look
> at my Cutlass right now- and anybody else
> in the snowcovered world whose car is stored,
> you ought to do the same...  Go look at it, and
> get excited again- spring will be here sometime
> in the next few months and gosh-darnit I can't
> wait anymore!

I think that's where everybody's at!  :)  I, on the other hand, just got off
work, so I'm going to spend ~this~ nice, sunny Saturday in ~bed~ :)  But I'm
gonna stay awake long enough to watch MST3000 :)


- -- 

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 12:49:19 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Bench to Buckets Swap????????

Does anybody know what would be involved in converting a bench seat to
buckets?? The car is a 70 Cutlass S. I want to know if I can bolt them
in no problems, or will I have to do some fabrication?
- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***********************
'70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
'73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
'75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 11:47:45 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@minspring.com>
Subject: Re: Getting my Toro tomorrow!!!

A conversion kit that replaces the jag engine/trans with a 
sb cheby and th350 trans (the usual combo).  Fits great
with no cutting and is mainly done for reliability reasons
and to make maintenance cheaper.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

>what is a jag conversion
>
>
>olds guy ga

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 12:52:13 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Die in style!!!!!!

Check this out!:
http://www.cwcoach.com/cw00041a.gif

If I didn't already have too many cars, I may buy this.
- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***********************
'70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
'73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
'75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 12:06:26 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Detailing

I don't know much as far as the engine detailing. I do know that .030 under
is the limit on the crank. I believe it should be fine as long as you get
.030 under bearings. you do have less material but unless you are spraying
the thing and drag racing it every time at the track you will be fine with
- -.030.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Tony Waldner <tonwald@eta.k12.mn.us>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Engine Detailing
> Date: Friday, January 29, 1999 3:28 PM
> 
> I have a question for the datail gurus--
> 
> I am in the process of rebuilding the engine in my 70 W-30 convertible
and
> I am wondering about detailing it to factory specs.
> 
> Does anyone know if the lift strap loop on the drivers side front two
> intake bolts get painted blue?  What about the water outlet?  My coupe is
a
> 55,000 mile untouched original and these items on that car do not appear
to
> be painted. The previous owner painted these pieces on my rag top, but I
> don't know if that is correct.
> 
> Any help?  Joe P.???
> 
> Another opinion:  My crank has to be cut .030 on both the mains and rods.
> The machine shop said that this is no big deal.  All of my buddies
> including myself feel that that is too far undersize for hard driving. 
Any
> thoughts/experiences?
> 
> TIA
> 
> Tony
> 
> 70 442 W-30
> 70 442 W-30 convert
> 70 Toro GT W-34
> 65 Jetstar 88 w/4-speed
> 84 Hurst/Olds
> 85 Cutlass Salon 455 Drag Racer
> 92 Seville STS
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 12:26:34 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@minspring.com>
Subject: Re: front end(long)

Ben,
Don't know of any web sites that have a "how to" for rebuilding a
front end but if you have a PST catalog they have a short section
with pics that is pretty accurate.  If you don't have one here's a
basic rundown of what to take off when.

First step is to take off all the stuff in your way.  Aside from the tires,
go ahead and unbolt the sway bar, pull the shocks out, and if you
really want to make life easy on yourself the inner fenderwells (your
going to have to do this anyway to tighten down the upper arm
bushings if you don't have the right tools to reach the nuts, more on
this later.  The last thing to do is to disconnect the steering linkage
to get it out of your way.  It's easiest to disconnect it at the spindles,
the pittman arm coming out of the steering box, and unbolt the idler
arm from the frame on the passenger side.

A little note about seperating the ball joints and the steering arms.
You can use a "pickle fork" to seperate them but I prefer to use a
hammer.  Due to the tapered seat they tend to get siezed into
position and take a lot of force to seperate but a couple well placed
hammer blows where the tapered seat is will knock it loose very
easily.  Something to do with vibrating it apart.  The problem with
the pickle fork is that it is almost impossible to use it without tearing
the boot so if your planning on reusing those parts stay away from
that method.

Once all that is out of the way you can seperate the ball joints.  Loosen
up the nuts but dont pull them all the way off.  A couple hammer blows
and the spring will help force the joints apart.  This is a good time to
disconnect the brakes.  If youve got disc's, just remove the caliper and
hang it up out of the way with a coat hanger but if youve got drums you
have to break the line.  My personal way to get the springs out is to
place the jack under the lower arm facing towards the inside of the car
so to lower the jack you have to be on the other side of the car.  This
way when you let it down your out of the way and the jack wont get in
the way of the arc of the arm when it drops.  Normally the spring won't
just "pop" out but I run a piece of heavy rope or cable through the holes
for the shock and tie it around the frame.  This way if it does pop out it
won't go anywhere.  Remove the spindle and let the jack down all the
way.  You usually have to pry a bit on the bottom of the spring to get it
out of the pocket.  Note that if you are installing aftermarket performance
springs they normally have a shorter free height than the stock ones so
installing them is very easy.  You can normally do it without a spring
compressor.

Once the springs out you can unbolt the arms and pull them out.  There
are ways of pulling the old bushings out without a press but it's far easier
to just take it to a shop that has one and have them do it.  Will save you
time in the long run.  As far as reinstallation, it's the opposite except
for
the fact that you have to leave the bolts loose for the arms until you get
the car sitting at ride height.  Drive it around the block to let it settle
down
to it's normal height and then tighten them up.  The upper one's you can
do yourself without much problem but the lower ones I always get the guy
who's doing the alignment to tighten them up since they either have it
over a pit or up on a lift which makes it easy for them to get at.  One
other tip, the spring end has to be aligned with the hole in the pocket on
the lower arm when you put it back in.  If you get it back in and it doesn't
lign up a pipe wrench will let you get leverage on the spring to twist it in
the pocket to get it where you want it.

Glad to answer more questions off the list,
Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/




>I need some assistance with my front end rebuild. I have the poly
>graphite bushings. I need a tear down and reassembly discussion. I'm
>gonna break into it tomorrow morning, but need to get some guidance so I
>don't miss a thing and get it done right. I don't want any squeeking (my
>car's too loud to hear it anyhow...) and I want it tight and smooth.
>Where to start and finish on each side, lessons learned from doing it
>before. Remove this even though it says not to sorta guidance... Any
>suggestions, pictures, web sites, diagrams... It all will h@!p a great
>deal.
>
>thanks, Ben
>68 Olds 442
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 12:33:07 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@minspring.com>
Subject: Re: Bench to Buckets Swap????????

Matt,
Year one sells a set of brackets for this for $27 a pair.  The buckets outer
track will bolt up to the spots where the bench mounted and these bolt
down the inner track.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

>Does anybody know what would be involved in converting a bench seat to
>buckets?? The car is a 70 Cutlass S. I want to know if I can bolt them
>in no problems, or will I have to do some fabrication?
>--
>***********
>Matt Cremean

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 12:48:54 -0600 (CST)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Kevin D. Wood)
Subject: Re: Bench to Buckets Swap????????

Matt.  I have put buckets into a few different
bench cars  all 70-72 Cutlasses without
a lot of problems.  I added my own holes for
them.  If I remember right I was able to use at
least one of the original studs in front.  I think
it has always worked out fine, however Year
One offers some mounting brackets that I 
think might ease installation as well as put the
seat into just the right position....
Just grabbed the Year One book.  Yep, it says
the outer tracks will fit on the existing studs and
they have a bracket-  P/N  DL108 which is
a set of brackets for both buckets for mounting
the inside tracks.  This catalog lists them at
$27 per pair, but it might be last years book.
1-800-950-9503.  

Hope that helps.  I'm sure all the parts places
have an equivalent if you shop elsewhere.
I have also have VERY good luck with a place called Tamraz's in Chicago-
630-904-4500.
A lot of the parts I bought from them even came
in original GM boxes.  Very cool

Kevin
1972 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 14:21:03 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: USED HEADERS

Jim:
Just showing off the GOOD pricing!. That is a good deal, don't have a 455,
otherwise...
Lou

- ----------
> From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: USED HEADERS
> Date: Friday, January 29, 1999 9:16 PM
> 
> Sorry everyone
> 
>         That was suppose to go private.
> 
> Jim Chermack

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 13:19:21 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Parts FS

>console, black, missing some parts, $75
What pieces are missing, What year is it for?  I am interested in buying 
it.

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 16:53:20 EST
From: R442@aol.com
Subject: 66-400 Price

I have a spare 66 400 ci. engine,complete with B heads,all the machine work
done.I am curious as to what it is worth. I`m not sure what to do with it yet.
Any help would be appreciated.



Rob Van Vleet
66 442

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 16:59:40 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: 66-400 Price

I'll take it off your hands for, uh, 300?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 17:04:45 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Need a solution to my Key problem

Rock Man,
    That's kind of interesting... my '69 has a different key for the trunk
than the doors, as did my '70 Cutlass S.  Hmmmm, now I don't know what to
think?!?! :-)
Todd Daenzer
All the toys put away for the winter....

Rock Man wrote:

> ---Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com> wrote:
> >
> > I though the reason the trunk was keyed differently was for valise
> <sp?>
> > parking - you would only give them your door/ignition key - that way
> if you
> > had anything in the trunk or glove box - they would not have access
> to it...
> > Possible?
> > Todd Daenzer
> > All the toys put away for the winter...
> ==================================
> The only car I have ever had that had a different keying for the trunk
> and the glove box is my 86 H*nda. I have owned a 81 Chevy Citation and
> my 69 Oldsmobile. My dad has all GM products (less his AMC Spirit). I
> have always seen the door key work in the trunk/glove box/and doors.
> My dad's 64 Impala and his AMC Spirit both use the ignition key as the
> door key and trunk key and such.
> ==
> Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> rockman20@yahoo.com
> 1986 Honda Accord DX
> 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
> 1981 John Deer Snowmobile
> 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
> 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 16:06:14 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Test

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Greg, let me know if you problems with this one.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/


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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Greg, let me know if you problems with this one.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Mike Bloomer<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:mbloomer@mindspring.com">mbloomer@mindspring.com</A><BR>IC=
Q#=20
19113713<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/">http://members.tripod.co=
m/CutlassFreak/</A><BR></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0027_01BE4C6A.764C2A60--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 17:19:51 EST
From: StepHydro@aol.com
Subject: Got the Toro

I just got home from a 2 1/2 hour drive back to Knoxville TN from Asheville
NC. I now have a new family member, Cincinnatus Maximus (Max to friends).

It is a 68 Toronado  
<A HREF="http://www.classics4sale.com/ads/cars/981027-164543C.html">1968
Oldsmobile Toronado - Asheville, North C...</A> 
a car I've loved since I first saw one in 68.

The owner said that the previous owner (I'm #4...always an Asheville, NC car)
had exchanged the engine for a '72, but it has the Toro intake, E heads, and a
396201F block (not Fa). I suppose the block and internals could be from a
smogger. Don't know how I could know without going inside.

Are there any Toro list folks near Knoxville?

What book(s) should I buy for restoration/maintenance help?

Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 17:35:17 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Got the Toro

Kick ass!

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass (hibernating)
84 Calais ($200!)
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of StepHydro@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, January 30, 1999 5:20 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca; toro@armchair.mb.ca
Subject: Got the Toro


I just got home from a 2 1/2 hour drive back to Knoxville TN from Asheville
NC. I now have a new family member, Cincinnatus Maximus (Max to friends).

It is a 68 Toronado
<A HREF="http://www.classics4sale.com/ads/cars/981027-164543C.html">1968
Oldsmobile Toronado - Asheville, North C...</A>
a car I've loved since I first saw one in 68.

The owner said that the previous owner (I'm #4...always an Asheville, NC
car)
had exchanged the engine for a '72, but it has the Toro intake, E heads, and
a
396201F block (not Fa). I suppose the block and internals could be from a
smogger. Don't know how I could know without going inside.

Are there any Toro list folks near Knoxville?

What book(s) should I buy for restoration/maintenance help?

Cheers/Carron

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 15:28:20 -0500
From: "Mike Bubb" <mikeb@unidial.com>
Subject: Quarter Panel Installation Expensive?

While preparing to paint my '70 Supreme convertible, I've been unpleasantly
surprised by some severe rust damage (and poor repair attempts) around both
rear wheel wells.  Year One sells quarter panels, as well as just the
sections of the quarter panel around the wheel well.

What should I expect to pay to have the panels installed?

How about just cutting out the bad stuff and replacing it with a sectional
piece?  Has anyone had good luck with this?  It seems like it would be more
labor than just replacing the whole thing.

Also, one more thing - I want to remove the door guard trim piece that runs
down the side of the car (to prevent door dings, I guess).  It's seems to be
glued.  Any advice?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Mike

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 16:47:52 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Got the Toro

Ray:
Do have a father, RE message other day, enjoy talking and F*cking with you,
take care guy!
Lou
PS Tell me more on the Tornado/year/etc

- ----------
> From: Master Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: Got the Toro

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 17:03:30 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Got the Toro

Sorry, private message, oops again!!
Mr. Butthead

- ----------
> From: Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Got the Toro
> Date: Saturday, January 30, 1999 4:47 PM
> 
> Ray:
> Do have a father, RE message other day, enjoy talking and F*cking with
you,
> take care guy!
> Lou
> PS Tell me more on the Tornado/year/etc
> 
> ----------
> > From: Master Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: RE: Got the Toro

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 17:02:26 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Quarter Panel Installation Expensive?

Mike,
I would go with just replacing the damaged pieces if the majority of the
upper panel is in good shape.  The quarter I bought for my 72 from
Sherman didn't lign up at all.  Keep as much original metal as you can
which is usually less work than trying to lign up a whole panel.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

>How about just cutting out the bad stuff and replacing it with a sectional
>piece?  Has anyone had good luck with this?  It seems like it would be more
>labor than just replacing the whole thing.
>
>Also, one more thing - I want to remove the door guard trim piece that runs
>down the side of the car (to prevent door dings, I guess).  It's seems to
be
>glued.  Any advice?
>
>Thanks in advance for your help!
>
>Mike
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 17:04:45 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: front end(long)

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0052_01BE4C72.A30BE100
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Ben,
Don't know of any web sites that have a "how to" for rebuilding a
front end but if you have a PST catalog they have a short section
with pics that is pretty accurate.  If you don't have one here's a
basic rundown of what to take off when.

First step is to take off all the stuff in your way.  Aside from the =
tires,
go ahead and unbolt the sway bar, pull the shocks out, and if you
really want to make life easy on yourself the inner fenderwells (your
going to have to do this anyway to tighten down the upper arm
bushings if you don't have the right tools to reach the nuts, more on
this later.  The last thing to do is to disconnect the steering linkage
to get it out of your way.  It's easiest to disconnect it at the =
spindles,
the pittman arm coming out of the steering box, and unbolt the idler
arm from the frame on the passenger side.

A little note about separating the ball joints and the steering arms.
You can use a "pickle fork" to separate them but I prefer to use a
hammer.  Due to the tapered seat they tend to get seized into
position and take a lot of force to separate but a couple well placed
hammer blows where the tapered seat is will knock it loose very
easily.  Something to do with vibrating it apart.  The problem with
the pickle fork is that it is almost impossible to use it without =
tearing
the boot so if your planning on reusing those parts stay away from
that method.

Once all that is out of the way you can separate the ball joints.  =
Loosen
up the nuts but dont pull them all the way off.  A couple hammer blows
and the spring will help force the joints apart.  This is a good time to
disconnect the brakes.  If you've got disc's, just remove the caliper =
and
hang it up out of the way with a coat hanger but if you've got drums you
have to break the line.  My personal way to get the springs out is to
place the jack under the lower arm facing towards the inside of the car
so to lower the jack you have to be on the other side of the car.  This
way when you let it down your out of the way and the jack wont get in
the way of the arc of the arm when it drops.  Normally the spring won't
just "pop" out but I run a piece of heavy rope or cable through the =
holes
for the shock and tie it around the frame.  This way if it does pop out =
it
won't go anywhere.  Remove the spindle and let the jack down all the
way.  You usually have to pry a bit on the bottom of the spring to get =
it
out of the pocket.  Note that if you are installing aftermarket =
performance
springs they normally have a shorter free height than the stock ones so
installing them is very easy.  You can normally do it without a spring
compressor.

Once the springs out you can unbolt the arms and pull them out.  There
are ways of pulling the old bushings out without a press but it's far =
easier
to just take it to a shop that has one and have them do it.  Will save =
you
time in the long run.  As far as reinstallation, it's the opposite =
except
for
the fact that you have to leave the bolts loose for the arms until you =
get
the car sitting at ride height.  Drive it around the block to let it =
settle
down
to it's normal height and then tighten them up.  The upper one's you can
do yourself without much problem but the lower ones I always get the guy
who's doing the alignment to tighten them up since they either have it
over a pit or up on a lift which makes it easy for them to get at.  One
other tip, the spring end has to be aligned with the hole in the pocket =
on
the lower arm when you put it back in.  If you get it back in and it =
doesn't
lign up a pipe wrench will let you get leverage on the spring to twist =
it in
the pocket to get it where you want it.

Glad to answer more questions off the list,
Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/




>I need some assistance with my front end rebuild. I have the poly
>graphite bushings. I need a tear down and reassembly discussion. I'm
>gonna break into it tomorrow morning, but need to get some guidance so =
I
>don't miss a thing and get it done right. I don't want any squeeking =
(my
>car's too loud to hear it anyhow...) and I want it tight and smooth.
>Where to start and finish on each side, lessons learned from doing it
>before. Remove this even though it says not to sorta guidance... Any
>suggestions, pictures, web sites, diagrams... It all will h@!p a great
>deal.
>
>thanks, Ben
>68 Olds 442
>


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<DIV>Ben,<BR>Don't know of any web sites that have a &quot;how to&quot; =
for=20
rebuilding a<BR>front end but if you have a PST catalog they have a =
short=20
section<BR>with pics that is pretty accurate.&nbsp; If you don't have =
one here's=20
a<BR>basic rundown of what to take off when.<BR><BR>First step is to =
take off=20
all the stuff in your way.&nbsp; Aside from the tires,<BR>go ahead and =
unbolt=20
the sway bar, pull the shocks out, and if you<BR>really want to make =
life easy=20
on yourself the inner fenderwells (your<BR>going to have to do this =
anyway to=20
tighten down the upper arm<BR>bushings if you don't have the right tools =
to=20
reach the nuts, more on<BR>this later.&nbsp; The last thing to do is to=20
disconnect the steering linkage<BR>to get it out of your way.&nbsp; It's =
easiest=20
to disconnect it at the spindles,<BR>the pittman arm coming out of the =
steering=20
box, and unbolt the idler<BR>arm from the frame on the passenger =
side.<BR><BR>A=20
little note about separating the ball joints and the steering =
arms.<BR>You can=20
use a &quot;pickle fork&quot; to separate them but I prefer to use=20
a<BR>hammer.&nbsp; Due to the tapered seat they tend to get seized=20
into<BR>position and take a lot of force to separate but a couple well=20
placed<BR>hammer blows where the tapered seat is will knock it loose=20
very<BR>easily.&nbsp; Something to do with vibrating it apart.&nbsp; The =
problem=20
with<BR>the pickle fork is that it is almost impossible to use it =
without=20
tearing<BR>the boot so if your planning on reusing those parts stay away =

from<BR>that method.<BR><BR>Once all that is out of the way you can =
separate the=20
ball joints.&nbsp; Loosen<BR>up the nuts but dont pull them all the way=20
off.&nbsp; A couple hammer blows<BR>and the spring will help force the =
joints=20
apart.&nbsp; This is a good time to<BR>disconnect the brakes.&nbsp; If =
you've=20
got disc's, just remove the caliper and<BR>hang it up out of the way =
with a coat=20
hanger but if you've got drums you<BR>have to break the line.&nbsp; My =
personal=20
way to get the springs out is to<BR>place the jack under the lower arm =
facing=20
towards the inside of the car<BR>so to lower the jack you have to be on =
the=20
other side of the car.&nbsp; This<BR>way when you let it down your out =
of the=20
way and the jack wont get in<BR>the way of the arc of the arm when it=20
drops.&nbsp; Normally the spring won't<BR>just &quot;pop&quot; out but I =
run a=20
piece of heavy rope or cable through the holes<BR>for the shock and tie =
it=20
around the frame.&nbsp; This way if it does pop out it<BR>won't go=20
anywhere.&nbsp; Remove the spindle and let the jack down all =
the<BR>way.&nbsp;=20
You usually have to pry a bit on the bottom of the spring to get =
it<BR>out of=20
the pocket.&nbsp; Note that if you are installing aftermarket=20
performance<BR>springs they normally have a shorter free height than the =
stock=20
ones so<BR>installing them is very easy.&nbsp; You can normally do it =
without a=20
spring<BR>compressor.<BR><BR>Once the springs out you can unbolt the =
arms and=20
pull them out.&nbsp; There<BR>are ways of pulling the old bushings out =
without a=20
press but it's far easier<BR>to just take it to a shop that has one and =
have=20
them do it.&nbsp; Will save you<BR>time in the long run.&nbsp; As far as =

reinstallation, it's the opposite except<BR>for<BR>the fact that you =
have to=20
leave the bolts loose for the arms until you get<BR>the car sitting at =
ride=20
height.&nbsp; Drive it around the block to let it settle<BR>down<BR>to =
it's=20
normal height and then tighten them up.&nbsp; The upper one's you =
can<BR>do=20
yourself without much problem but the lower ones I always get the =
guy<BR>who's=20
doing the alignment to tighten them up since they either have it<BR>over =
a pit=20
or up on a lift which makes it easy for them to get at.&nbsp; =
One<BR>other tip,=20
the spring end has to be aligned with the hole in the pocket on<BR>the =
lower arm=20
when you put it back in.&nbsp; If you get it back in and it =
doesn't<BR>lign up a=20
pipe wrench will let you get leverage on the spring to twist it =
in<BR>the pocket=20
to get it where you want it.<BR><BR>Glad to answer more questions off =
the=20
list,<BR>Mike Bloomer<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:mbloomer@mindspring.com">mbloomer@mindspring.com</A><BR>IC=
Q#=20
19113713<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/">http://members.tripod.co=
m/CutlassFreak/</A><BR><BR><BR><BR><BR>&gt;I=20
need some assistance with my front end rebuild. I have the =
poly<BR>&gt;graphite=20
bushings. I need a tear down and reassembly discussion. I'm<BR>&gt;gonna =
break=20
into it tomorrow morning, but need to get some guidance so =
I<BR>&gt;don't miss a=20
thing and get it done right. I don't want any squeeking (my<BR>&gt;car's =
too=20
loud to hear it anyhow...) and I want it tight and smooth.<BR>&gt;Where =
to start=20
and finish on each side, lessons learned from doing it<BR>&gt;before. =
Remove=20
this even though it says not to sorta guidance... =
Any<BR>&gt;suggestions,=20
pictures, web sites, diagrams... It all will h@!p a=20
great<BR>&gt;deal.<BR>&gt;<BR>&gt;thanks, Ben<BR>&gt;68 Olds=20
442<BR>&gt;<BR></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 18:08:52 -0500
From: "Glenn J. Martin" <martin.glenn@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Primming of Engine

I.m new to this car stuff and I am finding the list very imforative. I
read with interest the discussions on primming after a rebuild.  Do you
suggest anything special after a oil and filter change?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 18:25:10 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile (70-72 W-Machine Cutlass Convert) In Moive

Just out of curiousity - where are you getting the '64 Jetstar 88 from?  A
friend of mine has one for sale...  Just curious...
Todd Daenzer
All the toys put away for the winter...

C Thomas wrote:

> Does anyone out there Need parts for a 64 Jetstar 88 Im buying one for
> $400.00 this spring alls I want is the 330 Under the Hood.
> Chad Thomas
> 1985 Culass Iroc-ss
> www.442.com/cthomas.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 16:26:12 -0800
From: william goodnight <idaholc@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: USED HEADERS

At 02:21 PM 1/30/99 -0600, you wrote:
>Jim:
>Just showing off the GOOD pricing!. That is a good deal, don't have a 455,
>otherwise...
>Lou
>
>Missed the original post.  Tell me about the Headers!

Bill Goodnight
idaholc@primenet.com
1014 E. Franklin
Boise, Idaho
(208)345-0158

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 17:26:09 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Primming of Engine

Only trick there is to fill the new filter with oil so that when you fire
the motor it takes less time to get oil press.  If you have a vehicle
with a horizontal filter you can't do this though.  A regular olds
oil filter will hold 1/2 to 3/4 of a quart, depending on how long you
let the oil soak in.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/



>I.m new to this car stuff and I am finding the list very imforative. I
>read with interest the discussions on primming after a rebuild.  Do you
>suggest anything special after a oil and filter change?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 18:38:42 -0500
From: "Bill Reilly" <wjreilly@erols.com>
Subject: US body source hood

I deleted the original message by accident, but to whoever was asking about
US body Source, I purchased a w-30 hood for my '85 Cutlass from them.

I'm sort of impressed with the hood itself, but wasn't impressed with the
shipping and packaging.   The hood is sturdy, and the gelcoat isn't too
wavy.  The scoops don't come precut on any of their hoods.  It lets the end
user decide if they want to cut them out or not.

Their packaging is designed to protect the hood in only one direction.  If
the box is not kept with the arrows in the up position, it'll most likely
get damaged, like mine did.  The corners were chipped, and the front tip was
cracked.  I did manged to get about $100 back from the trucking company for
the damage.  It took like three months and a lot of arguing, but I got it.

Bill Reilly
mailto: wjreilly@erols.com
Web Page: (Not yet)

My Garage:
'83 Cutlass Ciera
'84 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1743
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