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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1736


oldsmobile-digest     Wednesday, January 27 1999     Volume 01 : Number 1736



Re: Newer Toronada
ack
pictures available
Re: Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)
Re: Fuel injected 307 in '90-'92 Custom Cruisers?
Re: A quick rearend question (Was Rear Springs!)
g-body clutch pedal set-up for sale
Re: Fuel injected 307 in '90-'92 Custom Cruisers?
New restoration Pictures
dash pad covers
'71 Vista Cruiser King Pin. Will '71 Caprice part fit?
Re: tap and plug the bypass in the filter.....
Re: Fuel injected 307 in '90-'92 Custom Cruisers?
Re: Olds on MCC this coming weekend
Re: dash pad covers
'79 Olds W-30
Re: "88" Retired
Re: Maaco (kinda long)
Q-jet solved
1964 F-85 Engine swapping
Re: Tragedy that shouldn't have been
Re: '79 Olds W-30
Re: Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)
Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming
Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)
Fw: A quick rearend question (Was Rear Springs!)
Re: Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)
Re: Hall's was RE: Standard Monty
Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming
Test
Re: Need a solution to my Key problem
Re: Tragedy that shouldn't have been
Re: A quick rearend question (Was Rear Springs!)
Test---delete
Re: motor oil recommendations?
RE: Standard Monty
Friend in Need in Austin, TX--semi-Non Olds
Re: Test---delete
FS: New Stuff
Fw: A quick rearend question (Was Rear Springs!)
RE: tap and plug the bypass in the filter.....
Q-jet solved
RE: Macao (kinda long)
Re: Need a solution to my Key problem
Re: UNBOUNCE: Re: motor oil recommendations?
Re: Newer Toronada
Re: '71 Vista Cruiser King Pin. Will '71 Caprice part fit?
Re: Maaco (kinda long)
Re: Tragedy that shouldn't have been

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 19:28:54 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Newer Toronada

Robert Yasczak wrote:
> 
> My girlfriends roomate recently bought a late 80's or early 90's toro, I 
forgot
> to ask her what year it was.  She is have a problem with it wanting to stall
> when she slows down or pulls out a stop sign.  It also is very sluggish and 
it
> then will take of like normal.  I tod her to try some fuel treatment for the
> possibility of bad gas.  Any help would be appreciated since the warranty 
will
> run out very soon if it is a major problem.

Tell her to check the antifreeze level. I had a friend with a Gr*nd *m
whose car did this. It ended up that her fluid level was too low and the
motor was over heating. Some sort of sensor makes it sputter like this.
I guess it's to protect the motor from blowing up.

|============|
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
|=========================|
'73 Cutlass Supreme
'70 Cutlass 'S'
'75 Cutlass 'S'
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
|=================================================|

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 19:22:57 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: ack

List, never ever buy a Toshiba, this tihng has been NOTHING but problems, and
the screen went out today, what a POS, kinda reminds me of a Chebby. If
Oldsmobile makes Laptops, please tell me.
Kelly Erickson
1966 Cutlass
http://www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 19:32:43 -0500
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: pictures available

Hey guys,  (and lisa and kim)

            I have a few pictures of 
"Kristine" that are digitized. Anyone
wanting one, email me privately..

The General         :o{)}        patton@comcat.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 19:40:07 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)

Cliff,
    I think that it has to be one of the best looking colors GM ever offered!  
In the
shade it looks nearly black, pull it out into the sun and it takes on a very 
dark, rich
looking metallic brown....  aaaahhhhh, is it summer time yet?
Todd Daenzer
All the toys put away for the winter...


Cliff Simpson wrote:

> Rebel1 wrote:
> >
> > The plate on the back of my father's Supreme is "455FEVR".  It's a '75 
Supreme
> > w/455 with no air and manual brakes from the factory - kind of different 
for that
> > year... BTW it's the infamous "Sable" brown - If I ever get my hands on a 
scanner I
> > up load a picture...
>
> Please do!  I have a car that was originally Sable but was painted black 
before
> I bought it.  I would like to see what the original colour looked like.
> --
>
> Cliff Simpson
> csimpson@ucalgary.ca
> '69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
> http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 01:09:35 -0600
From: "Charles A. Dempsey" <cdemps@lsumc.edu>
Subject: Re: Fuel injected 307 in '90-'92 Custom Cruisers?

Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:

> Yep, the 350 was an LT1 injected motor.  I'm assuming that the "fuel
> injected" 307 was either a carbureted 307 (though it _was_ an electronic
> Q-jet) or an injected 305 Chebby.

I examined the "Standard catalog of Oldsmobile" more closely for the
years '90-'91. The text section says about the '91 custom Cruiser, 

"Even the long-standard  5.0 liter V-8 engine received new electronic
throttle body injection and put out 170 horsepower, a 30-hp increase
over the previous year."

Here's the engine data for those years;

1990.
90 degree OHV V-8. Cast iron block and head. Displacement 307 cu in.
(5.0 liters). Bore & Stroke; 3.80X3.39. Compression ratio: 8.0:1. Net
horsepower: 140@3200 rpm. Torque 255 lb. ft. @ 2000 rpm. 4-bbl. carb.

1991.
90 degree OHV V-8. Cast iron block and head. Displacement 307 cu in.
(5.0 liters). Bore & Stroke; 3.74X3.48. Compression ratio: 9.3:1. Net
horsepower: 170@4200 rpm. Torque 255 lb. ft. @ 2500 rpm. Fuel injected
(EFI).

The 1991 engine has a different bore and stroke from the "long-standard"
307. I fear that it's a Chebby engine.

Charles

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 18:50:01 -0600
From: "mbloomer@mindspring.com" <mbloomer@minspring.com>
Subject: Re: A quick rearend question (Was Rear Springs!)

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Being in a similar situation, my plan is to get a "corporate" 8.5"
10 bolt.  These are fairly common (the C type 12 bolts are getting
expensive and hard to find) and ~cheap~.  Aftermarket posi's are
abundant and gear selections are everywhere (just not any 2.73's!).
As far as what will fit, any 68 to 72 A body will work, and most 70 to
72's will have them.  They are plenty strong even up past 400 hp=20
unless you hook hard enough off the line to pull the wheels.

Mike B
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/


>>>I got another question since we are on the rear of the car. I figure
that I will have to find a new rear-end to put in my Cutlass. I have
that 'O' rear. I would like to keep it if anyone could point me to a
posi unit and about a mid 3ish gearing. If not, what kind of car
should I start scowering the yards for? The rearend will have to fit
in a 69 Olds Cutlass S. I want something that I can buy gears and a
posi unit for.

Thanks,
Del<<<


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<HEAD>

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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Being in a similar situation, my plan is to get a =
&quot;corporate&quot;=20
8.5&quot;</DIV>
<DIV>10 bolt.&nbsp; These are fairly common (the C type 12 bolts are=20
getting</DIV>
<DIV>expensive and hard to find) and ~cheap~.&nbsp; Aftermarket posi's =
are</DIV>
<DIV>abundant and gear selections are everywhere (just not any =
2.73's!).</DIV>
<DIV>As far as what will fit, any 68 to 72 A body will work, and most 70 =

to</DIV>
<DIV>72's will have them.&nbsp; They are plenty strong even up past 400 =
hp=20
</DIV>
<DIV>unless you hook hard enough off the line to pull the wheels.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Mike B<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:mbloomer@gateway.net">mbloomer@mindspring.com</A><BR>ICQ# =

19113713<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/">http://members.tripod.co=
m/CutlassFreak/</A><BR><BR><BR>&gt;&gt;&gt;I=20
got another question since we are on the rear of the car. I =
figure<BR>that I=20
will have to find a new rear-end to put in my Cutlass. I have<BR>that =
'O' rear.=20
I would like to keep it if anyone could point me to a<BR>posi unit and =
about a=20
mid 3ish gearing. If not, what kind of car<BR>should I start scowering =
the yards=20
for? The rearend will have to fit<BR>in a 69 Olds Cutlass S. I want =
something=20
that I can buy gears and a<BR>posi unit=20
for.<BR><BR>Thanks,<BR>Del&lt;&lt;&lt;<BR></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 18:57:45 -0600
From: kenny porter <kdporter@midwest.net>
Subject: g-body clutch pedal set-up for sale

i have a pedal assembly out of a 81 olds wagon with a 3 speed
trans.missing the cross shaft everything else is there  75.00 obo
located in southern ill {618}987-2884

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 20:12:26 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel injected 307 in '90-'92 Custom Cruisers?

Charles A. Dempsey wrote:

> 1991.
> 90 degree OHV V-8. Cast iron block and head. Displacement 307 cu in.
> (5.0 liters). Bore & Stroke; 3.74X3.48.
                               ^^^^^^^^^^^

A HA!  A ch*vy!!!!  I thought I smelled oil smoke. :)

All olds small blocks had a 3.385 stroke.  This must be the 305 chevy.

> The 1991 engine has a different bore and stroke from the "long-standard"
> 307. I fear that it's a Chebby engine.

I just checked the FAQ and it says the final rocket V8 (307) was built
in 1990.

....And now the 88.  The general's quietly whittling away at the rocket.
:(

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 20:08:50 EST
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: New restoration Pictures

I just updated my <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html">'70
Rallye 350 Restoration</A> web site. I added two new pictures of the engine
area. Stop by and check 'em out!
Thanks,
Jim McKeague
1970 Rallye 350
1970 Cutlass S W-31
http://members.aol.com/JMCKEA7747/resto.html
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html">Dr.Olds350's Page</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 20:13:26 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: dash pad covers

My dad called me a moment ago.  He said that on My Classis Car or one of
those shows he saw a company that sold replacement dash pads.  These are
supposedly some sort of cover that you can just stick to your old
cracked pad and make it look new.  These are also availible for door
panels.  Has anybody heard of these or did anyone see that show?  My
uncle would like to put this on his L*ncoln's dash pad (better than on
an Olds) so I would like any info that may be availible.
Thanks,
Brian.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 01:35:44 -0600
From: "Charles A. Dempsey" <cdemps@lsumc.edu>
Subject: '71 Vista Cruiser King Pin. Will '71 Caprice part fit?

Hi List,

Anybody got a parts interchange manual for 1971?

I have just bought a '71 Vista Cruiser (455 2bbl, 98K miles, couple
dents but not too bad). This VC has lost it's left front wheel bearing
and the king pin is kinda' boogered up. 

It's not likely that I will find a '71 VC left king pin (either new or
used) in Shreveport, LA *but* I happen to have a '71 Caprice parts car
(with a good left king pin) sitting in my shop.

From what I can see (not much) these king pins look identical. Will
these parts interchange? Both of these cars have front disc brakes.

TIA,
Charles

As usual please cc: cdemps@lsumc.edu if you reply. I'm subscribed in
digest mode and I'd like to get started on this right away.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 19:38:26 -0600
From: "mbloomer@mindspring.com" <mbloomer@minspring.com>
Subject: Re: tap and plug the bypass in the filter.....

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Steve,
It's actually quite simple.  On the aluminum filter adapter that bolts =
to the
passenger side of the motor there is an internal passage that has a=20
spring loaded plate in it.  When the filter clogs up the oil goes =
through
this passage to maintain oil pressure.  As I remember (been a couple=20
years since I did this) all I had to do was to pry out a steel insert =
that=20
held the plate in, remove the spring, then drill/tap the hole for pipe=20
threads.  Install a pipe plug and all your oil is forced to go through =
the
filter.  I would only do this if the engine is in something you take =
care
of and change the oil regularly, since it would suck to have the oil
filter plug up, causing zero oil press in the middle of nowhere.  I had =
an
accurate oil press gauge plus had the factory idiot light still working =
so=20
that in the event I did loose oil pressure, it would catch my attention=20
instantly. =20

Mike B
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

   =20
   =20
   =20
    > My other personal preference is to tap and plug the bypass in the =
filter
    > adapter so that if the oil press starts to drop I know to change =
the oil
    > and don't have to worry about unfiltered oil circulating in the =
motor
    > without me knowing it.=20
   =20
    M/rs Bloomer,
    I'm not familiar with the procedure you described about tapping &
    plugging the oil filter adapter.  Could you possibly expand on that =
one a
    little.
   =20
    Thanx!!
   =20
    Steve Reed
    '70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
    Austin, TX

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<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Steve,</DIV>
<DIV>It's actually quite simple.&nbsp; On the aluminum filter adapter =
that bolts=20
to the</DIV>
<DIV>passenger side of the motor there is an internal passage that has a =
</DIV>
<DIV>spring loaded plate in it.&nbsp; When the filter clogs up the oil =
goes=20
through</DIV>
<DIV>this passage to maintain oil pressure.&nbsp; As I remember (been a =
couple=20
</DIV>
<DIV>years since I did this) all I had to do was to pry out a steel =
insert that=20
</DIV>
<DIV>held the plate in, remove the spring, then drill/tap the hole for =
pipe=20
</DIV>
<DIV>threads.&nbsp; Install a pipe plug and all your oil is forced to go =
through=20
the</DIV>
<DIV>filter.&nbsp; I would only do this if the engine is in something =
you take=20
care</DIV>
<DIV>of and change the oil regularly, since it would suck to have the =
oil</DIV>
<DIV>filter plug up, causing zero oil press in the middle of =
nowhere.&nbsp; I=20
had an</DIV>
<DIV>accurate oil press gauge plus had the factory idiot light still =
working so=20
</DIV>
<DIV>that in the event I did loose oil pressure, it would catch my =
attention=20
</DIV>
<DIV>instantly.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>Mike B<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:mbloomer@gateway.net">mbloomer@mindspring.com</A><BR>ICQ# =

19113713<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/">http://members.tripod.co=
m/CutlassFreak/</A><BR></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px"><BR><BR><BR>&gt;=20
    My other personal preference is to tap and plug the bypass in the=20
    filter<BR>&gt; adapter so that if the oil press starts to drop I =
know to=20
    change the oil<BR>&gt; and don't have to worry about unfiltered oil=20
    circulating in the motor<BR>&gt; without me knowing it. <BR><BR>M/rs =

    Bloomer,<BR>I'm not familiar with the procedure you described about =
tapping=20
    &amp;<BR>plugging the oil filter adapter.&nbsp; Could you possibly =
expand on=20
    that one a<BR>little.<BR><BR>Thanx!!<BR><BR>Steve Reed<BR>'70 4-4-2=20
    'Ragtop<BR>Austin, TX</BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 21:41:24 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Fuel injected 307 in '90-'92 Custom Cruisers?

As I recall, '90 was the last year for the traditional "square-rigger"
style Custom Cruiser -- really, the last true RWD Olds with an Olds
engine. The '91 would have been the "Moby Dick" new-style Impala body,
with an Olds-like grille. But it was really a Ch*vy. 

BTW, that car was never sold in Canada for some reason (not that they sold
all that many in the US either). Same with the current Cutlass, based on
the Malibu. 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 19:47:18 +0300
From: john schiffman <joschiff@flash.net>
Subject: Re: Olds on MCC this coming weekend

Thanks for the info.  I do watch MCC on the TNN channel here in
Arlington, TX on TCI cable when I have a chance but obvioiusly missed
the "previews" about the Olds.

John Schiffman

joschiff@flash.net
'69 442 closed, stock

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 20:39:20 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: dash pad covers

In a message dated 1/26/99 5:14:29 PM Pacific Standard Time, cshankle@home.com
writes:

<< My dad called me a moment ago.  He said that on My Classis Car or one of
 those shows he saw a company that sold replacement dash pads.  These are
 supposedly some sort of cover that you can just stick to your old
 cracked pad and make it look new.  These are also availible for door
 panels.  Has anybody heard of these or did anyone see that show?  My
 uncle would like to put this on his L*ncoln's dash pad (better than on
 an Olds) so I would like any info that may be availible.
 Thanks,
 Brian. >>

       My dad told me about those too..I think they are some type of shrink
wrap stuff, but I'm not sure. A good idea though instead of replacing the
whole pad. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 20:10:21 -0600
From: Jim <jimack@execpc.com>
Subject: '79 Olds W-30

Hi,
I just joined the list and hope to learn about Oldsmobiles.
I now have a '64 Impala ss and a '56 Buick.

I am going friday to look at a '79 Olds W-30,at least that is what the
owner says it is.

He said the car is white w/gold stripes,has  a Rocket350,
Turbo400w/Duelgate?shifter.
I read the FAQS and would like to know if anyone has any more infomation on
this
model.
Also, I would appreciate it if someone could point me to some web pages or
give me 
some advice on what to look for on this car, like what it should or should
not have, 
common rust areas, problems, etc.

Thanks,
JIM

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 21:12:50 EST
From: BradRoss79@aol.com
Subject: Re: "88" Retired

In a message dated 1/26/99 3:59:16 PM Pacific Standard Time, gregp@rbnet.com
writes:

<< GM has retired the Olds "88"
 > line, their longest-running domestic series. >>
I just saw this on the news.  I get Channel 6 from Lansing on my cable tv.
The last 88 was a black anniversary edition, and was built on Jan 6.
All of the assembly line workers signed the underside of the hood.
The car was donated to the R.E.Olds Transportation Museum in Lansing, Where It
will be part of their Olds collection along with the last Ninety Eight.

Brad Ross
1994 Eighty Eight Royale LS
1979 Ninety Eight Regency Coupe
1971 Delta Royale Hardtop
1971 Delta Custom Town Sedan

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 21:51:47 -0500
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@pa.net>
Subject: Re: Maaco (kinda long)

I talked to a local paint and body guy. He said it's all in 
the primer and the block sanding. He recommended
Valspar Acrylic ... Said it was new to him, but
has done three jobs with it ... and loves it.
The guy is gonna teach me the step by step
of prep ... and charge me $ 600 to shoot the paint ... 
three coats. Goodbye MAACO.

I think there may be other local paint and body 
shops that might do the same for an Old's
guy with hight interest in learning how to do it right.
  
Ken Swick
swickka@pa.net 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 21:44:35 EST
From: R442@aol.com
Subject: Q-jet solved

Thanks a million guys. The information you gave me was dead on. I did the the
straw test with a long screw, head down, and found the power valve stuck in
the up position. I took the top off the carb. and found that the metering rod
was misaligned and had become bent.The valve was held open at all times.I
replaced the metering rods with some I had laying around.My 442 fired right up
and was running great again. I am planning on going with a larger cam in the
near future,so I`m sure i will need to do some more adjustments.
Thanks again 

Rob
66 442 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 18:54:45 PST
From: "Lawrence Doty" <pianocraft@hotmail.com>
Subject: 1964 F-85 Engine swapping

My name is Larry from Pittsburgh, PA
I have an 1964, F-85, 225 V-6 with a 2 speed jetaway transmission.
The car has not been driven in the winter until 1997 and at that time 
had 49,000 miles on it.  It has quite a few more miles on it now but no 
serious rust.  The engine was recently driven with a bad oil pump and  
needs a complete rebuild.

My first choice would be to rebuild the existing engine and keep 
everything original.  The main problem with that is getting motor 
mounts.  Because that was an odd engine for that year,  I can't seem to 
find a source for aftermarket engine mounts.  I have tried Hemmings 
motor news, their advertisers, and about 10 local auto parts stores.  
I've tried Buick engine mounts but they hold the engine up too high.  
DOES ANYONE KNOW WHERE I CAN GET THE RIGHT MOUNTS?

My next choice would be to go to a 330 or a 350 V-8.  Is either of these 
better than the other?  Is one alot easier to install than the other?  
I'm interested in hearing someone's thoughts on this.

My email address is Pianocraft@hotmail.com.  I rebuild pianos for a 
living in case anyone was wondering about the odd address.  

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 22:25:48 EST
From: GraphixRUs@aol.com
Subject: Re: Tragedy that shouldn't have been

My 25 year old son might  not be a quadraplegic had he been wearing a  seat
belt.
Roger Utter
OCA # 27353

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 21:45:15 -0600
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
Subject: Re: '79 Olds W-30

Jim wrote:
	
	I am going friday to look at a '79 Olds W-30,at least that is
what the owner says it is.

	He said the car is white w/gold stripes,has  a Rocket350,
	Turbo400w/Duelgate?shifter.

	Jim, what you've described is a 1979 Hurst Olds.  I don't
personally know much about these, but try the Hurst Olds Club of America
website at:

	http://www.hurstolds.com

	They have pics and some other info. that may be of some help.

Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
Columbus, MS         1987 442

http://www.442.com/newman.html               1987 442
http://www.442.com/newmantape.html        Centennial Tape Info.  
	  
	

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 22:46:38 -0500
From: "C Thomas" <cthomas@stny.lrun.com>
Subject: Re: Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)

The plate on My Iroc-ss Cutlass reads  HI OFICR
Chad Thomas
www.442.com/cthomas.html

- -----Original Message-----
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, January 26, 1999 7:40 PM
Subject: Re: Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)


>Cliff,
>    I think that it has to be one of the best looking colors GM ever
offered!  In the
>shade it looks nearly black, pull it out into the sun and it takes on a
very dark, rich
>looking metallic brown....  aaaahhhhh, is it summer time yet?
>Todd Daenzer
>All the toys put away for the winter...
>
>
>Cliff Simpson wrote:
>
>> Rebel1 wrote:
>> >
>> > The plate on the back of my father's Supreme is "455FEVR".  It's a '75
Supreme
>> > w/455 with no air and manual brakes from the factory - kind of
different for that
>> > year... BTW it's the infamous "Sable" brown - If I ever get my hands on
a scanner I
>> > up load a picture...
>>
>> Please do!  I have a car that was originally Sable but was painted black
before
>> I bought it.  I would like to see what the original colour looked like.
>> --
>>
>> Cliff Simpson
>> csimpson@ucalgary.ca
>> '69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
>> http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 20:57:15 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming

This may be so but, I always just prime my pumps before I start the eng.
This fills the pump and the entire engine.

I wouldn't put vaseline in my multi grand eng.  Not that it wouldn't work
just doesn't seem right. :-)

LP
- -----Original Message-----
From: Reed, Stephen <sreed@chatsworth.com>
To: 'Olds' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, January 26, 1999 12:58 PM
Subject: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming


>Since there has been a little chatter regarding the usage of Vaseline, I
>just thought I'd share my knowledge bestowed upon me by my gear head
>professor in Tech College.  He always recommended removing the plate off a
>new oil pump and packing the gears with Vaseline.  It help with picking up
>the oil in a brand new pump.  There is absolutely no oil in there on a
fresh
>rebuild, and it takes a while to actually pick up any oil to recirculate
>through the engine, and the Vaseline acts as a 'Prime'.  It also breaks
down
>at 100' F so it's no big deal
>
>Steve Reed
>'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
>Austin, TX
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 22:58:59 -0500
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)

Some of my favorites  ...


BRN2RUN
12RACE
DROPTOP
ALLTORK

The General   .......  :o{)}

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 21:57:54 -0600
From: "mbloomer@mindspring.com" <mbloomer@minspring.com>
Subject: Fw: A quick rearend question (Was Rear Springs!)

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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- -----Original Message-----
From: mbloomer@mindspring.com <mbloomer@minspring.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, January 26, 1999 6:50 PM
Subject: Re: A quick rearend question (Was Rear Springs!)


Being in a similar situation, my plan is to get a "corporate" 8.5"
10 bolt.  These are fairly common (the C type 12 bolts are getting
expensive and hard to find) and ~cheap~.  Aftermarket posi's are
abundant and gear selections are everywhere (just not any 2.73's!).
As far as what will fit, any 68 to 72 A body will work, and most 70 to
72's will have them.  They are plenty strong even up past 400 hp=20
unless you hook hard enough off the line to pull the wheels.

Mike B
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/


>>>I got another question since we are on the rear of the car. I figure
that I will have to find a new rear-end to put in my Cutlass. I have
that 'O' rear. I would like to keep it if anyone could point me to a
posi unit and about a mid 3ish gearing. If not, what kind of car
should I start scowering the yards for? The rearend will have to fit
in a 69 Olds Cutlass S. I want something that I can buy gears and a
posi unit for.

Thanks,
Del<<<


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<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
</B><A =
href=3D"mailto:mbloomer@mindspring.com">mbloomer@mindspring.com</A> =
&lt;<A=20
href=3D"mailto:mbloomer@minspring.com">mbloomer@minspring.com</A>&gt;<BR>=
<B>To:=20
</B><A =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>=20
&lt;<A=20
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>&g=
t;<BR><B>Date:=20
</B>Tuesday, January 26, 1999 6:50 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Re: A quick =
rearend=20
question (Was Rear Springs!)<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
<DIV>Being in a similar situation, my plan is to get a =
&quot;corporate&quot;=20
8.5&quot;</DIV>
<DIV>10 bolt.&nbsp; These are fairly common (the C type 12 bolts are=20
getting</DIV>
<DIV>expensive and hard to find) and ~cheap~.&nbsp; Aftermarket posi's =
are</DIV>
<DIV>abundant and gear selections are everywhere (just not any =
2.73's!).</DIV>
<DIV>As far as what will fit, any 68 to 72 A body will work, and most 70 =

to</DIV>
<DIV>72's will have them.&nbsp; They are plenty strong even up past 400 =
hp=20
</DIV>
<DIV>unless you hook hard enough off the line to pull the wheels.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Mike B<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:mbloomer@gateway.net">mbloomer@mindspring.com</A><BR>ICQ# =

19113713<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/">http://members.tripod.co=
m/CutlassFreak/</A><BR><BR><BR>&gt;&gt;&gt;I=20
got another question since we are on the rear of the car. I =
figure<BR>that I=20
will have to find a new rear-end to put in my Cutlass. I have<BR>that =
'O' rear.=20
I would like to keep it if anyone could point me to a<BR>posi unit and =
about a=20
mid 3ish gearing. If not, what kind of car<BR>should I start scowering =
the yards=20
for? The rearend will have to fit<BR>in a 69 Olds Cutlass S. I want =
something=20
that I can buy gears and a<BR>posi unit=20
for.<BR><BR>Thanks,<BR>Del&lt;&lt;&lt;<BR></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 23:05:11 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)

Seen a neat plate on the back of a '95ish Mustang GT today while waiting in
Wendy's drive through...   WZISPDN        :-)
Todd Daenzer
All the toys put away for the winter...

C Thomas wrote:

> The plate on My Iroc-ss Cutlass reads  HI OFICR
> Chad Thomas
> www.442.com/cthomas.html
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Tuesday, January 26, 1999 7:40 PM
> Subject: Re: Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)
>
> >Cliff,
> >    I think that it has to be one of the best looking colors GM ever
> offered!  In the
> >shade it looks nearly black, pull it out into the sun and it takes on a
> very dark, rich
> >looking metallic brown....  aaaahhhhh, is it summer time yet?
> >Todd Daenzer
> >All the toys put away for the winter...
> >
> >
> >Cliff Simpson wrote:
> >
> >> Rebel1 wrote:
> >> >
> >> > The plate on the back of my father's Supreme is "455FEVR".  It's a '75
> Supreme
> >> > w/455 with no air and manual brakes from the factory - kind of
> different for that
> >> > year... BTW it's the infamous "Sable" brown - If I ever get my hands on
> a scanner I
> >> > up load a picture...
> >>
> >> Please do!  I have a car that was originally Sable but was painted black
> before
> >> I bought it.  I would like to see what the original colour looked like.
> >> --
> >>
> >> Cliff Simpson
> >> csimpson@ucalgary.ca
> >> '69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
> >> http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html
> >
> >
> >

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 23:05:16 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hall's was RE: Standard Monty

I have fond memories of Warren Hall's wonderful world of Oldsmobiles, if you
look at pictures of "Elfie" from 1992 or "Grace" from 1994 you'll see he was a
sponsor of ours.  I used to work with one of his sons here in KC, and the
Heart Of America chapter of OCA used to have a caravan out to Soldier once a
year to go yarding.

Too bad he couldn't get someone to take over the business and keep it going.
I think the location was a disadvantage, Soldier is not in the middle of
nowhere, but you can see it from there.  Had it been closer to Topeka (or even
better, KC) I know one Olds fanatic that would have given it all I, er, he had
to keep it going.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 23:08:57 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming

Larry,
    As a bit-o-trivia... the replacement pump (gears) that I put on my old 3.8
Buick came with directions to pack the housing with - you guessed it, petroleum
jelly!  I guess if Melling suggests it, it might be some merit to it?
Todd Daenzer
All the toys put away for the winter...

Larry Pegg wrote:

> This may be so but, I always just prime my pumps before I start the eng.
> This fills the pump and the entire engine.
>
> I wouldn't put vaseline in my multi grand eng.  Not that it wouldn't work
> just doesn't seem right. :-)
>
> LP
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Reed, Stephen <sreed@chatsworth.com>
> To: 'Olds' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Tuesday, January 26, 1999 12:58 PM
> Subject: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming
>
> >Since there has been a little chatter regarding the usage of Vaseline, I
> >just thought I'd share my knowledge bestowed upon me by my gear head
> >professor in Tech College.  He always recommended removing the plate off a
> >new oil pump and packing the gears with Vaseline.  It help with picking up
> >the oil in a brand new pump.  There is absolutely no oil in there on a
> fresh
> >rebuild, and it takes a while to actually pick up any oil to recirculate
> >through the engine, and the Vaseline acts as a 'Prime'.  It also breaks
> down
> >at 100' F so it's no big deal
> >
> >Steve Reed
> >'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
> >Austin, TX
> >

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 22:07:23 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@minspring.com>
Subject: Test

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This is merely a test of the "My ISP's all F$%ked up" network.

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<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
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<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>This is merely a test of the &quot;My ISP's =
all F$%ked=20
up&quot; network.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 04:11:35 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Need a solution to my Key problem

>> in fact, I wish
>> the trunk worked off the same key as well. 
 [snip]
>Sounds great except you lose the security of your trunk. Hence the detachable
>keyring. You leave the starter key with the garage attendent. Lock the glove
>box (in case you have a remote button in there that opens the trunk) and
>remove the trunk key. 

heh... Two faulty assumptions there:

1) That I actually have the opportunity to go places with valet parking
2) That I actually have anything of value in my trunk or glovebox (well,
come to think of it, the 235/75-15" tire in the trunk *does* have some tread
left on it...)

;)
_______________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry   MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
http://studentweb.providence.edu/~rbarry/wheels

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 23:16:56 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com

Subject: Re: Tragedy that shouldn't have been

I have to extend my condolences as well.  A few years ago Chelsea was in her
RX-7 waiting to turn left and go to work when she was hit from behind by some
idiot that actually told the police she was looking at her front seat
passenger and talking to him and never saw Chelsea waiting there to turn.  She
made the RX-7 look more like an RX-6&1/2, Chelsea broke the back of the seat
(not easy to do when you weigh 90 lbs) and was shaken, but the belts kept her
from smashing the windshield like the two people did in the car that hit her.

I used to get on to her about wearing seat belts (habit of mine from the
Marines, have to wear them on-base and I just kept doing it) but now she does
it without even thinking about it.

So please folks, let's remember this and TAKE CARE!

Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 23:20:31 EST
From: Stakin@aol.com
Subject: Re: A quick rearend question (Was Rear Springs!)

Any GM A-body 64-72 rear-end will fit.  The 64-67 will give you an extra inch
of tire clearance but otherwise bolts in the same. The easiest by far to get
gears and posi carriers for is the 12 bolt chebby . 

Joe Stackman
68 442
69 442 
and various other GM's

<<  got another question since we are on the rear of the car. I figure
 that I will have to find a new rear-end to put in my Cutlass. I have
 that 'O' rear. I would like to keep it if anyone could point me to a
 posi unit and about a mid 3ish gearing. If not, what kind of car
 should I start scowering the yards for? The rearend will have to fit
 in a 69 Olds Cutlass S. I want something that I can buy gears and a
 posi unit for.
 
 Thanks,
 Del >>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 22:33:14 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@minspring.com>
Subject: Test---delete

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You must be really bored :)

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HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>You must be really bored =
:)</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 23:33:45 EST
From: Stakin@aol.com
Subject: Re: motor oil recommendations?

Well I have to differ from the last response to this but no.  A one inch space
generally will move the effective range of the intake up 500 rpm's at exspense
of the bottom end . An intake rated from say 1500 to 6000 without a spacer
then you ad a 1inch spacer the range becomes 2000 to 6500 . According to
Edelbrock a spacer with 4 holes will not loose as much bottom end performance
as it keeps the air velocity higher than an open type spacer.  


<< * Will a carb spacer get some more response in the lower rpm range when 
   used on a single plane intake manifold?
  >>

Joe Stackman
68 442
69 442
and various other GM's

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 23:42:12 -0500
From: "Gary Couse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Standard Monty

Thanks for getting back to me Mike. Will try your master bone yard search.
Please do keep me in mind. I have a few months before the need becomes
critical and I buy a hydraulic setup.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
Project Forum Delphi Site:
http://www.delphi.com/cc_iroc_ss


> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Michael L Johnson
> Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 1999 1:49 PM
> To: gjcouse@framcomm.com
> Cc: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Standard Monty
>
>
>
>
> It was the only one we saw, I haven't gone back to pick it up, I was going
> to do it this weekend when I went to get the rearend out of the cutlass
> wagon. I told the lady at the counter that I wanted it and to save it for
> me. She said it wouldn't be a problem. Have you tried to use the
> international search service that some of the larger salvage yards are
> hooked too? I did find some of the necessary parts that way, that
> is were I
> found the bellhousing and some new clutch pedal and brake pedal
> rubber pads
> for the foot feet. There used to be a huge oldsmobile salvage yard in
> Kansas that my uncle used to get parts for his 1968 Cutlass at. I don't
> know if there still in business though, haven't been able to track them
> down. My uncle told me though that they used to be one of the hugest bone
> yards around and it was all nothing but Oldsmobile. I two have
> been looking
> for standard tranny setup for quite some years now, have tried a
> lot search
> services and a lot time on the phone, then I happen to be going
> through the
> salvage yard that time has forgotten (along with everyone else, this place
> is in the middle of no where with most of the cars in mile high weeds) and
> find exactly what I'm looking for. Will definitely keep you in
> mind though.
>
> Mike Johnson
>
>
>
>
> "Gary Couse" <gjcouse@francomm.com> on 01/26/99 12:24:52 PM
>
> Please respond to gjcouse@framcomm.com
>
> To:   Michael L Johnson/CedarRapids/Collins/Rockwell
> cc:
> Subject:  Standard Monty
>
>
>
>
> Hey Michael;
>
> There wasn't/isn't any chance there was a second Standard Monty in that
> yard? I too, am looking for all the standard G-body clutch components to
> swap into the '86 prototype Quincy. So far I have found nothing. Nor are
> any
> G-body variants dealers for GM able to get the components for me. I'm
> considering going hydrolic but would prefer the pedal feel of manual.
>
> So, in your travels should you come acrost another complete G-body clutch
> set, please keep me in mind.
>
> -----Regards,
>
> Gary J. Couse
> Couse Custom's
>
> ICQ# 5209322
> gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com
>
> Custom Conversion Prototype:
> CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
> http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
> Project Forum Delphi Site:
> http://www.delphi.com/cc_iroc_ss
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 20:42:42 PST
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Friend in Need in Austin, TX--semi-Non Olds

Hi guys,

I don't normally advocate advertisements on this list, but I have a 
mechanic, who I consider my friend, that just bought a shop in 
Austin,Texas.  He does great work at a reasonable prices.
- ------------------------------------------------------------
DEL AUTOMOTIVE--ask for Oscar Delph
8237 Research Blvd. 873-0044.
Next to Discount Tire.

Oil change $15, oil & filter up to 5 qts.
Brake job $55 (most cars).
Winterize special $36. Drive axles $120 (most cars).*
- ------------------------------------------------------------

When I haven't been able to work on my BEAST or have the right tools, he 
has always done great work for me.  Most all of us on the list work on 
our cars, and we have friends that want us to help them.  Save the 
aggrivation and send them to Del Auto.  I would really like to see him 
do well, as I'm sure his family would too.

So please spread the word if your in Austin, TX.  I know your out there.  
He would appreciate your patronage.  He loves working on older vehicles, 
mine is a '66 Delta 88.

Please no flames.

thank you all,

Chris Rivier
Austin,TX
'66 Delta 88...The BEAST is BACK!
'88 Festiva...ZIPPY 166K LAWN ORNAMENT!

*I am sure prices are subject to change without notice.


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 23:55:33 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Test---delete

Mike Bloomer wrote:
> 
> You must be really bored :)

Yes......yes I am.

- -- 
|============|
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
|=========================|
'73 Cutlass Supreme
'70 Cutlass 'S'
'75 Cutlass 'S'
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
|=================================================|

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 23:59:24 -0500
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: FS: New Stuff

Hello all

	We got some very nice pieces in lately and we've found some very nice
81-88 Cutlass/442 parts. We now offer digital pictures of any part in stock
prior to sale, to get proof positive condition of parts with no bull.

64-65 Speedometer Cluster (good)  $30.00
66 442/Cutlass Outside Mirror (good driver, couple minor pits)  $10.00 
66 442/ Cutlass LH Inner Fenderwell (very nice)  $75.00
68 Cutlass Supreme Tail Light assm (mint)  $85.00 pr
69-72 442/SX 455 Air Cleaner (large snorkel)  $125.00
83-84 H/O and 85-87 442 LH front Turn Lens (good)  $8.00 
81-83 Cutlass / Hurst Olds Tail Light Assm (mint, lens and bezels)  $150.00 pr
83-84 H/O and 85-87 442 Air Cleaner Assm (nice w/ inlet hose, needs detail)
 $170.00
81-86 Dash Wood Grain Pieces 
	LH  $10.00 ea
	Center $20.00 ea
	RH $13.00 ea
	Radio (early)  $25.00
	Radio (late)  $25.00
81-88 LH Fender (nice)  $80.00
81-88 RH Fender (nice)  $80.00
81-8? Hood (steel, nice)  $90.00
84-88 (N.O.S.) LH Tail Light Lens  $110.00 ea
84-88 (N.O.S.) RH Tail Light Lens  $110.00 ea
84-88 (N.O.S.) LH Tail Light Bezel $90.00 ea
84-88 (N.O.S.) RH Tail Light Bezel $90.00 ea

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts
(757)474-0869

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 23:11:28 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@minspring.com>
Subject: Fw: A quick rearend question (Was Rear Springs!)

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Being in a similar situation, my plan is to get a "corporate" 8.5"
10 bolt.  These are fairly common (the C type 12 bolts are getting
expensive and hard to find) and ~cheap~.  Aftermarket posi's are
abundant and gear selections are everywhere (just not any 2.73's!).
As far as what will fit, any 68 to 72 A body will work, and most 70 to
72's will have them.  They are plenty strong even up past 400 hp=20
unless you hook hard enough off the line to pull the wheels.

Mike B
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/


>>>I got another question since we are on the rear of the car. I figure
that I will have to find a new rear-end to put in my Cutlass. I have
that 'O' rear. I would like to keep it if anyone could point me to a
posi unit and about a mid 3ish gearing. If not, what kind of car
should I start scowering the yards for? The rearend will have to fit
in a 69 Olds Cutlass S. I want something that I can buy gears and a
posi unit for.

Thanks,
Del<<<


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<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN"><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
<DIV>Being in a similar situation, my plan is to get a =
&quot;corporate&quot;=20
8.5&quot;</DIV>
<DIV>10 bolt.&nbsp; These are fairly common (the C type 12 bolts are=20
getting</DIV>
<DIV>expensive and hard to find) and ~cheap~.&nbsp; Aftermarket posi's =
are</DIV>
<DIV>abundant and gear selections are everywhere (just not any =
2.73's!).</DIV>
<DIV>As far as what will fit, any 68 to 72 A body will work, and most 70 =

to</DIV>
<DIV>72's will have them.&nbsp; They are plenty strong even up past 400 =
hp=20
</DIV>
<DIV>unless you hook hard enough off the line to pull the wheels.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Mike B<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:mbloomer@gateway.net">mbloomer@mindspring.com</A><BR>ICQ# =

19113713<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/">http://members.tripod.co=
m/CutlassFreak/</A><BR><BR><BR>&gt;&gt;&gt;I=20
got another question since we are on the rear of the car. I =
figure<BR>that I=20
will have to find a new rear-end to put in my Cutlass. I have<BR>that =
'O' rear.=20
I would like to keep it if anyone could point me to a<BR>posi unit and =
about a=20
mid 3ish gearing. If not, what kind of car<BR>should I start scowering =
the yards=20
for? The rearend will have to fit<BR>in a 69 Olds Cutlass S. I want =
something=20
that I can buy gears and a<BR>posi unit=20
for.<BR><BR>Thanks,<BR>Del&lt;&lt;&lt;<BR></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 23:12:01 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@minspring.com>
Subject: RE: tap and plug the bypass in the filter.....

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Steve,
It's actually quite simple.  On the aluminum filter adapter that bolts =
to the
passenger side of the motor there is an internal passage that has a=20
spring loaded plate in it.  When the filter clogs up the oil goes =
through
this passage to maintain oil pressure.  As I remember (been a couple=20
years since I did this) all I had to do was to pry out a steel insert =
that=20
held the plate in, remove the spring, then drill/tap the hole for pipe=20
threads.  Install a pipe plug and all your oil is forced to go through =
the
filter.  I would only do this if the engine is in something you take =
care
of and change the oil regularly, since it would suck to have the oil
filter plug up, causing zero oil press in the middle of nowhere.  I had =
an
accurate oil press gauge plus had the factory idiot light still working =
so=20
that in the event I did loose oil pressure, it would catch my attention=20
instantly. =20

Mike B
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

   =20
   =20
   =20
    > My other personal preference is to tap and plug the bypass in the =
filter
    > adapter so that if the oil press starts to drop I know to change =
the oil
    > and don't have to worry about unfiltered oil circulating in the =
motor
    > without me knowing it.=20
   =20
    M/rs Bloomer,
    I'm not familiar with the procedure you described about tapping &
    plugging the oil filter adapter.  Could you possibly expand on that =
one a
    little.
   =20
    Thanx!!
   =20
    Steve Reed
    '70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
    Austin, TX

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<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><BR>&nbsp;</DIV></FONT>
<DIV>Steve,</DIV>
<DIV>It's actually quite simple.&nbsp; On the aluminum filter adapter =
that bolts=20
to the</DIV>
<DIV>passenger side of the motor there is an internal passage that has a =
</DIV>
<DIV>spring loaded plate in it.&nbsp; When the filter clogs up the oil =
goes=20
through</DIV>
<DIV>this passage to maintain oil pressure.&nbsp; As I remember (been a =
couple=20
</DIV>
<DIV>years since I did this) all I had to do was to pry out a steel =
insert that=20
</DIV>
<DIV>held the plate in, remove the spring, then drill/tap the hole for =
pipe=20
</DIV>
<DIV>threads.&nbsp; Install a pipe plug and all your oil is forced to go =
through=20
the</DIV>
<DIV>filter.&nbsp; I would only do this if the engine is in something =
you take=20
care</DIV>
<DIV>of and change the oil regularly, since it would suck to have the =
oil</DIV>
<DIV>filter plug up, causing zero oil press in the middle of =
nowhere.&nbsp; I=20
had an</DIV>
<DIV>accurate oil press gauge plus had the factory idiot light still =
working so=20
</DIV>
<DIV>that in the event I did loose oil pressure, it would catch my =
attention=20
</DIV>
<DIV>instantly.&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>Mike B<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:mbloomer@gateway.net">mbloomer@mindspring.com</A><BR>ICQ# =

19113713<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/">http://members.tripod.co=
m/CutlassFreak/</A><BR></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px"><BR><BR><BR>&gt;=20
    My other personal preference is to tap and plug the bypass in the=20
    filter<BR>&gt; adapter so that if the oil press starts to drop I =
know to=20
    change the oil<BR>&gt; and don't have to worry about unfiltered oil=20
    circulating in the motor<BR>&gt; without me knowing it. <BR><BR>M/rs =

    Bloomer,<BR>I'm not familiar with the procedure you described about =
tapping=20
    &amp;<BR>plugging the oil filter adapter.&nbsp; Could you possibly =
expand on=20
    that one a<BR>little.<BR><BR>Thanx!!<BR><BR>Steve Reed<BR>'70 4-4-2=20
    'Ragtop<BR>Austin, TX</BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 00:18:03 EST
From: R442@aol.com
Subject: Q-jet solved

Thanks a million guys. The information you gave me was dead on. I did the the
straw test with a long screw, head down, and found the power valve stuck in
the up position. I took the top off the carb. and found that the metering rod
was misaligned and had become bent.The valve was held open at all times.I
replaced the metering rods with some I had laying around.My 442 fired right up
and was running great again. I am planning on going with a larger cam in the
near future,so I`m sure i will need to do some more adjustments.
Thanks again 

Rob
66 442 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 00:44:07 -0500
From: "Gary Couse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Macao (kinda long)

Just goes to prove that even in Maaco, there's occasionally a true
"craftsman" that needs a stop gap job...


> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Rock Man
> Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 1999 3:49 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Maaco (kinda long)
><Snip>'
> On the other hand though, I have seen a perfect car come out of Maaco
> for close to the same price. That car was perfect and the paint was
> older then mine. No flakes no small bubbles, no dust marks, nothing.
> *shrugging shoulders* I just take it as "MY LUCK". But, I will never
> go back to them.
>
> My $1.50 worth!
> Del
> ==
> Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> rockman20@yahoo.com
> 1986 Honda Accord DX
> 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
> 1981 John Deer Snowmobile
> 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
> 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 00:01:32 -0600 (CST)
From: blue442@webtv.net
Subject: Re: Need a solution to my Key problem

Just my little bit of experience before this thread dies out.  

I needed to have a trunk key fitted to my Plymouth, as I bought it at an
abandoned vehicle auction.  Took the whole car to the locksmith.  He
gripped a key blank with Vise Grips, sprayed it down with what appeared
to be graphite spray, jiggled it in the lock, looked at the pattern in
the graphite, filed a little, then repeated.  In about two minutes he
had a perfect match.  Kinda scary how easy it was for him, but hey,
turns out there was a lawnmower in the trunk.  Not bad for five bucks.

Jeff Carter
blue442@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 01:42:18 EST
From: Oldsfire@aol.com
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Re: motor oil recommendations?

Try Mobil one it is a very high detergent oil!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 01:47:14 EST
From: Oldsfire@aol.com
Subject: Re: Newer Toronada

If it has a lot of miles on it, it could be a well worn timing chain!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 01:53:06 EST
From: Oldsfire@aol.com
Subject: Re: '71 Vista Cruiser King Pin. Will '71 Caprice part fit?

Front end parts should interchange, according to my parts interchange manual!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 01:54:35 EST
From: Dizyizy1@aol.com
Subject: Re: Maaco (kinda long)

I will also attest to the crap Maaco uses.

I had a paint had covering a 70 Cutlass S and not two weeks after getting it
back it flaked off around the Door Handles and Side Marker lKights...Big
chunks  and then the real test....It rain and left my car looking like a
orange...this is three weeks after painting it and two weeks dryng time

The car had curtains of paint on the Bottom part of the Q.P and this paint job
was not extended to under deck lid...but it di have overspray on the weather
stripping of the windows including some on the chrome and on back of side view
mirrors

DIDDO on fiding a place that uses Ditzlers/ PPG or maybe Deltron if it exsists

Sanford 

1974 Olds 98 Regency L/S
1988 Royal Broughm
1984 StarFire Sx
1973 Omega
1986 Omega
1970 Cutlass S 
1970 Cutlass Supreme (455 motor stuffed in for bracket racing)
1972 Cutlass (455 mondello speced for Racing)
1969 Cutlass 
1976 Cutlass S
1970 Delta 88 
Not all owed anymore sad to say..

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 27 Jan 1999 01:59:34 EST
From: Dizyizy1@aol.com
Subject: Re: Tragedy that shouldn't have been

I agree that all time seat belts should be used I dont care if your just going
around the block


I have always used one and feel Naked if I dont have one on...or I will not go
in a friends car if it has none...I will walk or call someone else

I was showboating on street in Houston and didnt relize  that there roads
slope off at each gutter,,,I hit wet spot...car revved out to 5500  ( my stall
speed set on MSD) I hit dry car launched into a PhonePool.....I had seat belt
on AND so did my freind....thanki goodness I make my feinds wear them too.

I hope "the tragedy that shouldnt have been" opens up peoples eyes to
understand we dont have the comfort of having air bags and the like in these
Older muscle cars.  and even those reqiure other restaints.....

Sanford

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1736
*********************************

