Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1709


oldsmobile-digest       Friday, January 8 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1709



Re: list info
Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
Re: dick miller responds!
Re: Windshield and Backglass leaking
order of switches
Fw: Virus Warning
Headliner ripped...Arrrghhhhh!!
Sway bars
MSD and Tach again
Re: Specs on 70 SX and Supreme
Re: Cleaning Tanks-denture tablets
More 330/350 questions
Re: Olds on Jeopardy
Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)
Re: dick miller responds!
Re: Parting a '67 CS...
Re: Gas Tanks F/S
the diff between stock 307/HO 307
RE: 1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
Re: Sway bars
Re: Cold idle problems
Increasing Bolt Patter
Re: F# confusion
RE:olds on jeopardy
Re:Vendors, Customer Service, and E-mail
Re: More 330/350 questions
Low Nickel Blocks and High Compression
Re: Low Nickel Blocks and High Compression
HUGE SWAP MEET (New England)!!
Re: HUGE SWAP MEET (New England)!!
Re: Low Nickel Blocks and High Compression
Re: Sway bars
HO racing still exists (was suspension upgrade/rebuild advic
Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)
Re: HUGE SWAP MEET (New England)!!
Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)
Re: Mondello flexplate = altered inertia properties?
Re: HUGE SWAP MEET (New England)!!
my experience with Pertronix..
Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)
Re: Mondello flexplate = altered inertia properties?
Re: Motor Break In
Re: HUGE SWAP MEET (New England)!! 
Oldsmobile in NASCAR
RE: Olds on Jeopardy
Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)
Re: Cold idle problems
Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)
Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)
Re: Dual Exhaust
Re: Water in Gas?
Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)
Re: upholstery
Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)
Re: exploding batteries
Re: Bravo
Re: Windshield and Backglass leaking
recent tv ad/olds siting
Re: the diff between stock 307/HO 307
Re: RE weather
Re: RE weather
Re: the diff between stock 307/HO 307

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 20:49:07 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: list info

Thanks a mil.  :-)

LP
- -----Original Message-----
From: krzy4evr@usit.net <krzy4evr@usit.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, January 07, 1999 7:02 PM
Subject: Re: list info


Go to    www.onelist.com   for an excellent soure for lists. You can start
any type
of list you want




I know of a company that might want to start a list for boats.  I don't know
where to send him    HELP.

nurelic@primenet.com

Larry Pegg

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 23:11:49 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

I'll forward this to a friend of mine.

He might have some NOS left.  If he does and is interested in selling them
he'll e-mail you privately and you can take it from there.

jp

>I'm searching for a front left and right fender for my Cutlass convertible.
>My first choice would be a set of new fenders.  My second choice would be a
>set of used fenders in good to excellent condition.  Does anyone know where
>I could find these fenders?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 23:30:48 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: dick miller responds!

sorry, I was in caffeine withdrawals, lookin for a fight. "i'm" OK now. Had
my fix. I've also been snowed in with a 2 and a 4 year old. To the list,
forgive my venom. That DM response really struck a nerve.

- -----Original Message-----

>
>ed ralax there you go flaming the list you are trying to defend
>and if i dont want to use the "shift" key i wont i also dont care to use
>punctuation this is not being graded you know.....KK
>Just Kidding see I can use the "shift" key and punctuation.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 23:47:40 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Windshield and Backglass leaking

Dave,

I don't think you will be able to get at anything from inside with the
headliner out of the car.  Double wall steel in those areas to meet roll
over standards.  I would bet your leak is rust under one of the clips that
retain the windshield trim.  They tend to rot out at the weld stud location
as the trim clips sometimes take paint off when installed.  Much more common
on cars that have had windshield replacements (especially more than one).
There are two ways to replace the glass - 1. Partial cutout (cheap and
easy).  Remove old glass.  Gloop sealer on and install new glass.
 2.  Full cutout (expensive and rarely used).  Remove old glass.  Remove
virtually all of the old foundation material.  Install new adhesive
foundation.  Install new glass.
Method 1 exacerbates rust problems as the glass sits farther out than it is
supposed to and the gobs of new sealer keep water from draining from the gap
between the glass and body.  Thus the vulnerable area around the trim
retention clips tends to stay wet.
Regards,
Fred
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dave Cullen <david.cullen@snet.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, January 07, 1999 6:35 PM
Subject: Re: Windshield and Backglass leaking


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Arnold, W D <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
>
>
>>My windshield is leaking on the driver's side of the car. The water comes
>in
>>from the top and drips on my steering wheel.
>
>My 85 Delta also leaks at the top of the windshield. Had a professional
>glass guy pull it and reseal (only cost 35 bucks, took 1/2 hr).
>
>Still leaks.
>
>I figger there's rust under there somewhere. I'm hoping I can fix it from
>~inside~ the car when I replace the headliner.
>
>drc
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 22:55:18 -0600
From: steven@purplemonkey.com (Steven Saraceno)
Subject: order of switches

For those with convertibles with cruise control or those who know, what
is the order for the lights, top, cruise switches on a 70 442.

I've seen from left to right (while seatd in the drivers seat facing
forward)

Lights\Top\Cruise & Lights\Cruise\Top but never Cruise\Lights\Top

Which one is right?

Steven Saraceno
70 W-30 convertible

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 23:57:06 -0600
From: "Michael Johnson" <Cardoc@Tcon.Net>
Subject: Fw: Virus Warning

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BE3A99.6E1611E0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

My dad and step-mom would not have sent this if they thought it was a hoax,
just lookin' out for the people we care about...better safe than sorry!  Hi
to all!
M&M

- ----------
> From: JBird57402@aol.com
> To: GCgolfer@aol.com; HappiFeet@aol.com; cardoc@tcon.net;
LorryWoods@aol.com; jpritchett@tagdc.com; subpred@mail.cvn.net;
richk@transfig.org; Ricknvic@Juno.com; MJGibbons@peir1.com; Mjboyd@aol.com
> Subject: Fwd: Virus Warning
> Date: Thursday, January 07, 1999 10:19 PM
> 
>  
> 
- ------=_NextPart_000_01BE3A99.6E1611E0
Content-Type: message/rfc822
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

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Subject:  Virus Warning
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 ----------
From: GEORGE HILL
To: GROUP_EVERYONE
Subject: FW:  [Fwd: [Fwd: [Fwd: FW: Warning!!!]]]
Date: Thursday, January 07, 1999 9:54AM


> There is a new virus that  appears as a normal email running in the
> net, it
> is called A.I.D.S. virus. It destroys the memory, sound card & cd and
> infects the mouse and the keyboard.
> Fortunately the virus destroys itself but only after having eaten 5MB
> of the
> hard disk  and destroyed all the programs. This virus looks like an
> email
> and his title is: "OPEN: VERY COOL!". Delate immediately this mail.
> Please
> send this note to everyone that appears in your address book.
> Another new virus running in the net appears like an email titled:
> "JOIN THE
> CREW". This one will destroy the whole data in the hard disk of the
> computer. So don't open any e-mails of this kind, and let as many
> people as
> possible know about them.  This is a very new and malignous virus and
> few
> people know about its existance.
> This information was announced yesterday morning by IBM, so share it
> with
> anyone you know that acceses the internet in order to stop these
> viruses.
>
>

 --------------23316A1C1B813135120A936F--


 --------------B89D23054432E0039C36EDBA--


- ------=_NextPart_000_01BE3A99.6E1611E0--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 21:34:35 PST
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Headliner ripped...Arrrghhhhh!!

Arrrghhhhh!!

It was a little windy on my way home.  A cross wind buffetted through.  
I heard a loud RRRRRIIIIIIIIIPPPP!!!  My headliner decided to fall apart 
at this particular moment.  Arrrghhhhh!!

When I got home I checked it out.  The headliner material is fine, but 
the threading fell apart.

I figured someone on this list has had it done.  It is the type that has 
metal ribs to hold it up.  How much am I looking at to replace it?  I 
hope the news isn't too bad.

TIA,

Chris Rivier
Austin,TX
'66 Delta 88...The BEAST is BACK!
'88 Festiva...ZIPPY 166K LAWN ORNAMENT!


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 23:50:51 -0600
From: "Joe Centanni" <jacentan@crown.icongrp.com>
Subject: Sway bars

U can go to big on sway bars cars are built to have understeer
first(usually) larger sway bars can turn this into oversteer!...Go w/ the
stock bars first and after your suspension is done see how it
is........Changing the sways is a lot easier than swapping
springs.....Larger sways tend to effect ride faster than heavier or lowered
springs
			Later
			Jeremy 87 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 00:00:34 -0600
From: "Joe Centanni" <jacentan@crown.icongrp.com>
Subject: MSD and Tach again

Went out t-nite and low and behold my tach was reading rite and my volts
were reading low,,,,when the volts were between 12-14 on the gauge the tach
was major screwy anyone else run by something like this before?.Its an 87
442 rally pac and its really annoying when the tach jumps and
flutters,etc...........Any grounds in specific that I should go after?
`				Thanks
				Jeremy 87 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 06:29:53 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Specs on 70 SX and Supreme

>I am in need of the following info for a 1970 Cutlass SX and Cutlass Supreme
>with a 455. 

Those would be the same thing; the only way to get the 455 in the CS
bodyshell in 1970 and 1971 was with the SX option. 1972 was different.

>Could somebody h*lp me out here?
>This is what I am looking for:

From the April 1970 Motor Trend road test:
					
>WEIGHT:                3720lbs.
>OVERALL LENGTH:        203.2"
>TOP SPEED:             110mph@4500rpm (approx).
>AVG. 1/4 MILE TIME:    14.8sec@95mph
>REAR AXLE GEAR:        3.08:1

Now, this was for the W-32 late-1970 version of the SX, which was basically
the 4-bbl 365hp 442 motor, which was an optional upgrade from the L-31 4-bbl
365hp big-car motor that came standard after January 1970 (which would
likely have been slower). 

There was also the early-1970 model year L-33 2-bbl 320hp 455 w/2:56 rear
gear SX combination, like my car (built 10/69), that would be slower still
in the quarter mile, though top-speed was substantially higher (how much
higher I can't say exactly; my speedometer only went to 120mph... ;)

Then you've got the low-compression 1971 4-bbl 455, which was probably
somewhere between the L-31 and L-33 high-compression 455's of 1970.

So, there's a total of four different 455's that might lie under the hood of
an SX, but the only well-known road-test was of the highest-output engine of
the four with a somewhat-moderate rear gear ratio (others were available).

Hope this helps!

- -Bob Barry
- -'70 Cutlass Supreme SX

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 02:03:28 EST
From: Socalolds@aol.com
Subject: Re: Cleaning Tanks-denture tablets

Heres one solution to cleaning those old dingy washer tanks..... try several
denture cleaning tablets. You know the ones for removing stains from gramma's
dentures. 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 01:16:13 -0600 (CST)
From: Kimberly Ann Wandrey <kaw0006@jove.acs.unt.edu>
Subject: More 330/350 questions

Hi Guys and Gals!

I am still debating over the '64 Olds. I have discovered some potential
fiascos. I now have the following questions:

1. How can you tell if a block is cracked? The last scenario I gave you
all is I was going to switch the 330 to a 350. The 350 I thought was
available may not be, so I thought I would go ahead and rebuild the 330
(if I bought the car). The 330 will not idle and there is no water
in the radiator. The radiator and hoses seemed to be fine and not leaking.
Where could the antifreeze have gone? 

2. If I get a hold of a 350 block, will the intake and heads from the 330
fit?

3. Rusty water was coming out of the tailpipe. What does this mean? 

4. Smoke was coming out of the valve cover breather and low down on the
engine on the passenger's side. Is this a sign of a cracked block or
something else? 

5. The whole upper end did not sound like it was oiling and it shook
violently when it was running. Im not sure if that means anything major,
but it was something I noticed. 

 
Im sorry if these questions seem silly, but I am new at this and I am
trying to learn. One thing is for sure, that '64 would be one h@!! of a
learning experience... ;) 

Thanks bunches in advance!! :) I will be out of town until Sunday, but I
am not unsubbing. I will return replies Sunday evening. Thanks so much!!
:) 

Kim & Junior ('72 Cutlass Supreme)
Dallas, Texas
Member OCA & NTOC

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 04:23:33 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Olds on Jeopardy

Jim or Joanne Chermack wrote:
> 
> The Olds 350 diesel engine.

Sorry Jim, but it has to be in the form of a question.   :)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 04:33:17 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)

Rock Man wrote:
> 
> List,
> 
> Please don't hate me too much here, but does anyone know of a e-mail
> ring for Monte Carlo owners? Or any really informative Monte sites? A
> friend of mine has an 86 Monte Carlo SS and he is looking for parts
> and performance info. Can anyone help?

What you need I think is -

majordomo@darklair.com 

command to s*bscribe is-

subscri*e monte-list

If that doesn't work, let me know and I'll recheck it.  Still wish we
could have a link to other lists.  I could provide a few locations that
list most of the car groups, but I don't have the expertise to actually
set it up......... 

Not being a computer guru in the computer age is a pain sometimes....

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 07:22:49 -0500
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Re: dick miller responds!

i agree with you kerry., what the hell, do you think that he would be so
quick to jump on someone if he did not like the way he speaks if he was face
to face,? i do not know why he gives a dam about { i} he understood the
message alright .    butch

Kerry Kroger wrote:

> ed ralax there you go flaming the list you are trying to defend
> and if i dont want to use the "shift" key i wont i also dont care to use
> punctuation this is not being graded you know.....KK
> Just Kidding see I can use the "shift" key and punctuation.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 08:36:42 EST
From: Bbymks4@aol.com
Subject: Re: Parting a '67 CS...

              Any motor parts available? I'm looking for a crank.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 08:53:13 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Gas Tanks F/S

In a message dated 1/7/99 8:17:12 PM EST, chermac@exis.net writes:

<< I got some very good news for those needing a NEW gas tank. >>
Hey Jim,

Got a gas tank for my Delta?
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv. (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 10:19:29 -0500
From: Mark Ivey <mivey@mail.rapid.com>
Subject: the diff between stock 307/HO 307

I'm new here so take it easy on me.  I was just wondering what the diff
was between a stock 307 and a HO 307, because I was thinking of
upgrading my stock 307 to a HO.  It is in a 85 Olds cutlass supreme
brougham.  If anyone can help I would appreciate it.

Mark

85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 08:28:16 -0700 
From: Henry Biays <hbiays@copic.com>
Subject: RE: 1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

Jonathan,
Thank for passing the message on to your friend

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jonathan Parke [mailto:jonparke@together.net]
Sent: Thursday, January 07, 1999 8:12 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: 1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible


I'll forward this to a friend of mine.

He might have some NOS left.  If he does and is interested in selling them
he'll e-mail you privately and you can take it from there.

jp

>I'm searching for a front left and right fender for my Cutlass convertible.
>My first choice would be a set of new fenders.  My second choice would be a
>set of used fenders in good to excellent condition.  Does anyone know where
>I could find these fenders?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 10:00:24 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: Sway bars

>U can go to big on sway bars cars are built to have understeer
>first(usually) larger sway bars can turn this into oversteer!..

I think lots of us do this on purpose. Many would rather have a bit of 
oversteer than all the built-in understeer


.Go w/ the
>stock bars first and after your suspension is done see how it
>is........Changing the sways is a lot easier than swapping
>springs.....Larger sways tend to effect ride faster than heavier or lowered
>springs

You may be right about this, but I don't think so. My experience has been 
that changing sway bars (or putting them where they've never been) has very 
little effect on ride, other than maybe increased stability. 



another cheap opinion,

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 11:05:46 -0500
From: "jhurd" <jhurd@neo.rr.com>
Subject: Re: Cold idle problems

>The two vacuum diaphram do-hickeys on the passenger side of the carb are
>"vacuum break" units. The front one controls the 4-barrel's secondary air
>valves, the rear one controls the choke plates. The latter is cotrolled by
>the computer, through a vacuum solenoid. It should activate right after
>starting.
>
	Right.  The thing I don't understand is the vacuum solenoid that 
controlls
the Rear Vacuum Brake.  What is its purpose??  It should de-energize
(allowing vacuum) right after start-up, unless you are under "cold weather
conditions" in which it will stay energized (not allowing vacuum) for about
30 seconds.  My problem is that my solenoid is energizing and making the
car run rich.  The choke valve stays completely shut for about 30 seconds.
I can't see any outside conditions that would warrant that, even if it was
40 below.  Is there anything else that would control the choke valve for
the first 30 seconds of start up?

	
	Try taking of the air cleaner assembly and pluging the appropriate 
vacuum
lines and observe the RVB, and other choke assemblies during start up.
Dave's description of the process is accurate and you can see if your setup
is working in the same manner.




Jim H.
'87 Salon

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 09:23:06 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Increasing Bolt Patter

Does anyone know if a bolt pattern can be increased on a set of Cragar SS
rims from 4 3/4 to 5 inch.  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 11:30:24 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: F# confusion

My two 67 425 blocks [non toro] are F5 and F6. This confused me, as i
thought the lower F# indicated an older block, but maybe that only holds
true on the 455 blocks.
_______

No, the "lower number indicates an older block/head/etc" convention is
usually true for most Oldsmobile parts (witness heads, for example, though
when they ran out of numbers on small block heads, they started over with
the letter A).  The F5/F6 on a 67 425 block is consistent with them being
67 blocks ( 1967 was the last year of 425 production - presumably 65 425
blocks would be F1 and F2 blocks, for example).  The reason why this is not
significant on the 425s is that apparently all year 425 blocks are the same
with reguard to wall thickness and nickel content, so the "look for a lower
F-number" was never an issue.  The 455s, however, do vary in desireability
with production year, so that's why you've only heard about the F-number in
relation to those blocks.

Just out of curiosity, does anyone know if the F-numbers in general relate
to revisions to the engineering drawings or some other quantifiable change?

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 11:46:15 EST
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: RE:olds on jeopardy

What is the olds 350 diesel?
Now wheres my money Alex

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 11:45:38 EST
From: Oldsparts@aol.com
Subject: Re:Vendors, Customer Service, and E-mail

The recent Dick Miller issue raises a few good points.  Jonathan Parke And Joe
Padavano both touched on some of them.

My advise is this:  If you want customer service, PICK UP THE PHONE!  All the
serious, dedicated vendors have 800 Numbers.  I know I can give more advise,
or customer service, in five minutes on the phone, than I can with 5 pages of
e-mail. 

Many vendors work 10-12 hour days.  I often read e-mail between 10 PM and
Midnight.  It's not at all unusual for me to receive 50-75 e-mail's a day.  It
is difficult, if not impossible to respond in full to every request,
especially if the vendor reads his e-mail at a location separate from the
office, and the resources it affords.

After seeing how some members of this list have responded to this issue, I am
embarrassed to be a part of it.  These vendors are friends of the hobby.  To
vilify them is not only dumb, it's self defeating.  It's a how to make friends
and influence people type of thing.  If you don't think so,  e-mail me a list
of all vendors that have agreed to discount to the list.....

Give poor Dick a break.  ACT LIKE MEN!  Vote with your wallet or send him a
bill for whatever he owes you!  I suspect his response was straight forward
and to the point.  It's the straightest arrows that hit the hardest.

Sincerely For Oldsmobiles,
Steve Kenny
Brothers Automotive Products
<A HREF="http://www.oldsparts.com">www.oldsparts.com</A>
800-442-PART
Oldsparts@AOL.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 12:14:20 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: More 330/350 questions

Kim,

Answers interspersed below:

=============

1. How can you tell if a block is cracked?
________

Most reliable way is to pressure test the cooling system.  I suspect that a
radiator shop could do this.

=============

...Where could the antifreeze have gone?
________

Besides the crack, a blown head gasket, rusted or pushed out freeze plug,
bad intake gasket (remember the coolant crossover passages, also, a cracked
head instead of the block.

=============

2. If I get a hold of a 350 block, will the intake and heads from the 330
fit?
________

Yup

=============

3. Rusty water was coming out of the tailpipe. What does this mean?
________

Most likely it just means that your exhaust system has rust in it.  The
water is probably just condensation, which picks up rust from the inside of
the exhaust system.  Has the car been sitting for a length of time?  That
will increase the likelihood of the rusty exhaust problem.

=============

4. Smoke was coming out of the valve cover breather and low down on the
engine on the passenger's side. Is this a sign of a cracked block or
something else?
________

Bluish white smoke is oil smoke, meaning the engine is blowing oil past the
rings/valve guides (ie, a rebuild is in order).  Pure white smoke is
water/coolant, indicitive of a leak or crack or blown head gasket.  Oil
smoke down low on the pass side is unlikely to be internally generated -
more likely the valve cover gaskets are leaking and the oil is burning off
on the exhaust manifolds.

=============

5. The whole upper end did not sound like it was oiling and it shook
violently when it was running. Im not sure if that means anything major,
but it was something I noticed.
________

Not sure what you mean by this.  Are the rockers clattering?  Could be a
lot of things - plugged oil passages in the pushrods/lifters, worn
valvtrain (causing slop), sticky lifters, low oil level or pressure, etc.
Lots of potential causes here.  Note that if the lifters are sticking or
the oil pressure is insufficient to pump them up correctly, the engine will
run very rough.

=============

...that '64 would be one h@!! of a learning experience... ;)
________

You've got that right.  My first car project was a 68 442 that I completely
rebuilt.  I made a lot of mistakes, but I learned a tremendous amount.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 10:27:23 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Low Nickel Blocks and High Compression

How much faster is my '76 455 with high-comp pistons going to wear the block
then the older High Nickel content.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 11:32:16 -0600
From: Shang <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: Low Nickel Blocks and High Compression

I don't think the compression is going to effect it at all. As long as
your rings are not too tight, you shouldn't get any real significant
wear before you are ready to rebuilt. The difference being that the high
nickel blocks exhibit NO wear. My F2 350 block had a 166K miles on it
when I tore it down, even tho the rings were wore, I couldn't feel any
ridge in the cylinder walls.


Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

Igor T. '81 DRB 455 wrote:
> 
> How much faster is my '76 455 with high-comp pistons going to wear the block
> then the older High Nickel content.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 09:41:30 -0800 (PST)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: HUGE SWAP MEET (New England)!!

  I jsut heard an ad on the radio about a huge swap meet.  Here's the
info that I heard.  I'll try to get more info soon.

      When: January 16-17
            9-5 both days
     Where: The grounds of the Eastern States Expo (aka Big E
Fairgrounds) Memorial Ave., West Springfield Mass.
   Details: Indoors/heated, $7 admission, parts and accesories for
pro-Street, classics, muscle cars, dragsters, etc.
  
  * Usual disclaimers apply: I don't know who's putting on the show or
if there are going to be any Olds parts there, All I know is what I
heard on the radio, so don't blame me if you go and it sucks.


==

     Stefan
     1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
     70Cutlass@Beer.com

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 13:05:31 EST
From: Lou0118@aol.com
Subject: Re: HUGE SWAP MEET (New England)!!

I was able to get the following info off the Hemmings Site

Autoparts Swap N' Sell
     Event Type:
                 swap meet , flea market 
      Start Date:
                 01/16/1999
       End Date:
                 01/17/1999
            City:
                 West Springfield
           State:
                 MA
     Description:
                 New England's largest indoor all automotive swap meet & flea
market,
                 300 vendors, thousands attend, millions of parts, 2 big days,
heated,
                 indoors, Saturday & Sunday 9 to 5 at Eastern States
Exposition,
                 Memorial Ave, vendor space limited, $7 admission, children &
parking
                 free, info: Start-Finish, 860-871-6376, CT.
   Contact Name:
                 Start-Finish Production
         Contact
        Address:
                 PO Box 2124
     Contact City:
                 Vernon
    Contact State:
                 CT
     Contact Zip:
                 06066
   Contact Phone:
                 860-871-6376

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 12:56:44 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Low Nickel Blocks and High Compression

How much faster is my '76 455 with high-comp pistons going to wear the
block
then the older High Nickel content.
_________

Two answers:

1)  It depends on the rings

2)  Not enough for you to notice.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 13:18:14 EST
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Sway bars

In a message dated 1/8/99 10:44:05 AM Eastern Standard Time, hitson@i1.net
writes:

<< .Go w/ the
 >stock bars first and after your suspension is done see how it
 >is........Changing the sways is a lot easier than swapping
 >springs.....Larger sways tend to effect ride faster than heavier or lowered
 >springs
 
 You may be right about this, but I don't think so. My experience has been 
 that changing sway bars (or putting them where they've never been) has very 
 little effect on ride, other than maybe increased stability. 
  >>
well, they do affect ride on the bumpy uneven roads.  the car will jerk side
to side alot harsher with bigger bars.  what i mean by that is when you hit a
pothole with your passenger side, the drivers side window comes towards you a
lot more than it would if you had smaller bars on it.  its not the actual
up/down ride quality that changes, but the side/side ride quality. if you stay
on nice smooth roads you dont have anything to worry about.  thats just my
experiences....   
later, jeremy
BIGJERMES@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 10:11 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: HO racing still exists (was suspension upgrade/rebuild advic

   HO Racing  (the company referred to by both Mark Cornea and
Greg Zimmerman as the source of their sway bars) is NOT out of 
business as Greg said.  You can email the owner, Ken Crocie, at

   CROCIE@MSN.COM 

or look up their website at

   www.inc.com/users/HORACING-ps.html

The website lists "SG689 front 1-3/8" sway bar 64-72 A-body"
and "SB601 rear 1-3/8 sway bar 64-72 A-body" at $199.50 and
$179.50 respectively with mounting hardware and endlink bushings.

   This is definitely the largest diameter front sway bar I have heard 
of for the GM 64-72 A-body. I believe Herb Adams makes 1-1/3" bars 
which are slightly thinner, but these appear to be for all-out racing,
with Heim joints instead of endlink bushings and a correspondingly 
high price. (Probably lots more NVH than polyurethane, too.)

   While I'm at it I would like to pass on a tip I received from  Doug 
Eckart (a member of this list). The front sway bar from a 1970 - 1981 
F-body (Firebird, Camaro) will bolt on to 64-72 A-bodies, and some 
(maybe all) Pontiac Trans-Am's came with a 1-1/4" sway bar! I got one 
from a local junkyard for $12.50, less than a tenth of the cost of a 
new bar from an aftermarket supplier. Camaro-Z28's have a pretty thick 
bar too, though based on the junkyard I searched they're smaller than 
1-1/4" (definitely take dial calipers with you if you go to the 
junkyard). At this point I don't yet know of a stock rear bar that 
will bolt on. However even if you get a Hotchkis or similar rear bar 
you'll save half the expense. Summit, etc list poly endlink bushings 
and endlinks if you don't feel like using the stock rubber. By the 
way, be sure to get a rear bar designed to work with a 1-1/4" front 
bar - a giant 1-3/8" rear bar from HO racing with only a 1-1/4" front 
bar might make your car oversteer with its attendant dangers. If I 
remember correctly the sway bar effectiveness goes up as its diameter 
to the power FOUR, so a 1-3/8" bar has 1.46 times the roll stiffness
of a 1-1/4" bar, and 6.1 (!) times the roll stiffness of the stock 
7/8" bar, assuming similar metallurgy for all bars.

   My '72 Supreme now has stock front springs, Hotchkis rear springs, 
no rear swaybar, and a 1-1/4" front swaybar from a '79 Trans Am. This 
combination still understeers heavily as you'd expect, and still rolls 
appreciably in tight corners though it's a VAST improvement over 
stock. (tight 15 mph corner near my home I take at around 37 mph when 
no traffic!). I'll be putting in the front Hotchkis springs as soon as 
I find the time to take apart the front suspension, and plan on adding 
an aftermarket rear sway bar soon. Maybe I'll get one of those G-tech 
accelerometer thingies and find out just what my max lateral 
acceleration actually is :)

   I recall an article some years ago in Hot Rod where they put 
Hotckis springs, swaybars, rear control arms, and poly suspension 
bushings on a '66 Chevelle along with bigger tires (Goodyears, I don't 
remember which ones) and ended up with around 0.88G lateral grip, 
enough to beat the then current Firebird (1993 ?). 

- -John Carri

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 13:40:37 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)

In a message dated 99-01-07 14:09:57 EST, you write:

<< << Please don't hate me too much here, but does anyone know of a e-mail
  ring for Monte Carlo  >>
 
 Who's Monte Carlo?
 You mean Monte Python? >>

I think he means the Earl of Monte Crisco.
Or is that Oil?

Is he related to Yvonne DiCarlo?
Or the other Monte brother?
Monte Haul?

sorry....

K

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 10:47:43 -0800 (PST)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: HUGE SWAP MEET (New England)!!

   Hey all,
            I am definitely going part hunting at this show.  If
anybody has parts requests, e-mail me Privately and I'll see if I can
find what you're looking for.  Here's the Info that I need if you want
me to get something for you:  

           Name of the Part(s)
           Make, Model, Year of car 
           Max. price willing to pay/price range (add shipping)
           Condition of part(s) wanted (ie. fair, good, excellent)
           Details, Details, Details, Anything you can think of that
               will help me to identify the part(s) (ie. description,
                e-mail me a picture, part #)
           Your adress (so that I can mail you the part(s)!)
     Obviously I can't guarantee that I can get the parts, but I'll
try.  I'll mail the pieces COD.  I'm not buying anything that's
huge(engines, frames, etc.).  Also, if anybody has any pricing info,
or info on rare parts, please send it to me, so that if somebody tries
selling me a spark plug for $200 I'll know not to get it, or if
somebody offers me a fully functional Rally Pac for $20 bucks I'll
know that that's a great deal.  Finally, I'm a picky b*stard, so if
the parts aren't in the condition that you request or better, I won't
get them.


==

     Stefan
     1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
     70Cutlass@Beer.com

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 10:52:12 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)

> << << Please don't hate me too much here, but does anyone know of a
e-mail
>   ring for Monte Carlo  >>
>  
>  Who's Monte Carlo?
>  You mean Monte Python? >>
> 
> I think he means the Earl of Monte Crisco.
> Or is that Oil?
> 
> Is he related to Yvonne DiCarlo?
> Or the other Monte brother?
> Monte Haul?
> 
> sorry....
> 
> K
> 
*LOL* We got some funny people on this list, but I do think that I
remember cooking with Monte Crisco the other day. Makes your cookies
turn out very nice. :-)

Del

==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 13:59:05 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Mondello flexplate = altered inertia properties?

In a message dated 99-01-07 15:43:21 EST, you write:

<< <<  What is the advantage of this?  Does this flexplate offer only
 additional strength, or will the added rotating weight alter the performance
 characteristics?   >>
 _______
 
 Usually these items are used in drag racing to prevent engine RPMs from
 being dragged down too far when the car is launched off the line and at
 shift points.  The primary advantage is when using a smaller, low-torque
 engine in a heavy car.  Unfortunately, selecting the inertia increase is a
 tradeoff, as you can imagine that while the additional inertia of the
 flexplate prevents engine RPM from dropping at launch, it also makes it
 more difficult to accelerate once the car is moving. >>

Thanks, Joe.

Was thinking along those lines.
Would not the more rigid Mondello plate provide a change in "damping" effects
to the crank/reciprocating parts?

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 14:19:07 -0500
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: HUGE SWAP MEET (New England)!!

Stefan Sends a Smoke Signal:

>   I jsut heard an ad on the radio about a huge swap meet.  Here's the
> info that I heard.  I'll try to get more info soon.
> 
>       When: January 16-17
>             9-5 both days
>      Where: The grounds of the Eastern States Expo (aka Big E
> Fairgrounds) Memorial Ave., West Springfield Mass.

Thanks for the info, Stefan!  That's only about an hour from me,
but better yet, it's 10 mins. from my mother-in-law's house!

So, I can drop off the Missus and the kids -- unfortunately, they'd
prolly only enjoy it for the first 15 minutes or so -- and spend
the day! (And some $$$)

For those going, this'll probably be held in the Better Living Bldg.
on the fairground.  That's where I've gone to Boating and Camping
shows in years past...



Tim Churchill  tchurchill@draper.com  OCA #30327  Framingham, MA
- ----------------------------------------------------------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, new a.k.a 'Old Gold'
'98 VW Passat GLS Wagon, a.k.a. 'der Kinderwagen'

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 11:13 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: my experience with Pertronix..

   I tried to do a Pertronix conversion on the distributor in my '72 
Supreme. I found that while the Ford version of the Pertronix looks 
well engineered (Ford and Mopar distributors have mech advance 
mechanism at the bottom of the distributor housing and cam for the 
points above it, so the Pertronix conversion is a sleeve which slips 
over the cam, and the electronics module is spaced radially out from 
this by the small gap or 0.02" or whatever needed for the magnets to 
fire the module. Hence distributor endplay does not affect this fairly 
critical spacing) the GM version is not. In order to accomodate the 
advance mechanism at the top of the distributor shaft the magnets go 
on a big flat ring which bolts on, made of rather flimsy looking 
plastic. The module mounts *under* the ring, with the critical gap 
between magnets and ring now being affected by distributor endplay. 
Worse yet, even with a brand new distributor with minimal endplay I 
found the plastic ring holding the magnets does not sit quite square 
to the distributor shaft (it's mounted by only two screws that 
normally hold down the rotor) and hence the gap between the ring and 
module varies as the distributor turns, enough so that in the worst 
case positions it is almost scraping the module with the dist. shaft 
at one end of its endplay  and almost too far from the module with the 
shaft at the other extreme of endplay. This is on a newly rebuilt 
distrib with minimal endplay.

   I also had one other problem with it, the modules phasing was not 
right for my distributor, i.e. at the instant the module triggers the 
spark the rotor is not pointing correctly at one of the cap terminals, 
but rather is sort of in between two terminals, with a likelihood of 
crossfire to the wrong terminal and reduced coil and plug wire life 
from the increased spark gap. I had to oval out the mounting holes for 
the Pertronix module and then position it using my timing light and a 
big hole drilled in an old distributor cap so I could see the rotor 
with the cap on.

   My opinion - the Pertronix module itself is great, but the 
associated flimsy magnet ring and GM mounting arrangement is just 
plain cheap and lousy engineering. I'm not satisfied with it.

   I'm planning to either go to either a full HEI conversion or an HEI 
distributor only (no electronics) triggering a Mopar ignition module 
and conventional ignition coil. If I can find some way to put the HEI 
magnet/coil arrangement into my existing distributor housing and use 
that to trigger the Mopar module that would be better yet, as I don't 
want to use an offset air cleaner (David Vizard's "carbs and 
manifolds" book and some recent cold weather convinced me of the 
benifits of cold air induction and internal streamlining in the air 
cleaner and someday I hope to use one of those Air Inlet Systems 
cool-air induction air cleaners, which are not available offset, but 
that's another story....).

  I think it's easier to troubleshoot a system where everything is not 
integrated into one housing like the HEI, and cheaper to use a 
standard ignition coil too.


- -John Carri

'72 Supreme
'73 Plymouth Road Runner

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 14:24:24 -0500
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)

WARNING -- Addition to a Silly Thread Ahead!

> > << << Please don't hate me too much here, but does anyone know of a
> e-mail
> >   ring for Monte Carlo  >>
> >  
> >  Who's Monte Carlo?
> >  You mean Monte Python? >>
> > 
> > I think he means the Earl of Monte Crisco.
> > Or is that Oil?
> > 
> > Is he related to Yvonne DiCarlo?
> > Or the other Monte brother?
> > Monte Haul?
> > 
> > sorry....
> > 
> > K
> > 
> *LOL* We got some funny people on this list, but I do think that I
> remember cooking with Monte Crisco the other day. Makes your cookies
> turn out very nice. :-)
> 
> Del

Wait, isn't a Monte Cristo a grilled turkey & cheese?
...or doesn't that *Count*?

I know, that one was real Poe... sorry!

<groan-o-rama>



Tim Churchill  tchurchill@draper.com  OCA #30327  Framingham, MA
- ----------------------------------------------------------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, new a.k.a 'Old Gold'
'98 VW Passat GLS Wagon, a.k.a. 'der Kinderwagen'

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 14:19:41 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Mondello flexplate = altered inertia properties?

Would not the more rigid Mondello plate provide a change in "damping"
effects
to the crank/reciprocating parts?

SOM

&KA
________

Yes, however this is normally not a concern in drag racing applications.
Additionally, though the stiffer flexplate will impact damping, it is a
second order effect, as the rubber in the harmonic balancer makes that the
dominant effect - it's significantly softer than the flexplate.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 h/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 13:34:00 -0600 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Motor Break In

You can have too much, it will suck up a lot of HP!  And with Olds, I have
heard it will suck your oil pan dry and you will actually starve oil, this
IS a bad thing!

Anyone have personal experience?

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 11:38:09 -0800 (PST)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: HUGE SWAP MEET (New England)!! 

  Just to make things easier on myself, please put "SWAP MEET PARTS
REQUEST" in your subject so that I won't miss it among all of the list
noise...

Thanks,

==

     Stefan
     1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
     70Cutlass@Beer.com

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 13:36:30 -0600 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Oldsmobile in NASCAR

When was the last time an Olds V8 circled NASCAR tracks?  I have always
heard that the Diesel block was one of the ruling engines for the NASCAR
Olds 350.  Was this true?  Make a heck of a great racing foundation!!

Just wondering!

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 13:37:35 -0600 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: Olds on Jeopardy

Can we say Diesel 350??

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 14:40:52 -0500
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)

I Was Trying to be Real Clever By Saying:

> Wait, isn't a Monte Cristo a grilled turkey & cheese?
> ...or doesn't that *Count*?
> 
> I know, that one was real Poe... sorry!

A thousand pardons!  For some reason I thought _The Count of Monte Cristo_
was written by Edgar Allen Poe.

Just shows what a Dumas I am.



Tim Churchill  tchurchill@draper.com  OCA #30327  Framingham, MA
- ----------------------------------------------------------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, new a.k.a 'Old Gold'
'98 VW Passat GLS Wagon, a.k.a. 'der Kinderwagen'

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 13:47:42 -0600 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Cold idle problems

Dave was dead on, the primary problem for cold start initial die is the
choke pull off/primary vacuum break.  This is crucial.  

Remove vacuum hose, and depress plunger, press finger over vacuum port.
Release plunger.  It should hold no less than 10 seconds, prefer 1 min.  If
it does not, then replace.  Do the complete choke setup BY THE BOOK from
your GM service manual  This will enhance your cold driving Olds experience!
Mine starts nearly perfectly in -22F!!  I have seen EFI cars start harder
than my 83 Q-Jet on my 77 Olds 350 Rocket in my 85 Cutlass with 85 CCC
emissions!!  Never arbitrarily adjust your Q-Jet, know exactly what you are
tweaking.  I have seen so many people complain they have a Quadrajunk and it
is really their own fault for screwing around. Bend this, screw that, tweak
the idle mix screws, etc.  

DVDV I think is Diverter Valve Delay Valve.  Part of the AIR (SMOG pump)
system.  If you want to email me directly I will help the best I can.

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 14:58:07 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)

if the car in question is black does that make it a Monte Negro?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 15:14:56 -0500
From: tonwald@eta.k12.mn.us (Tony Waldner)
Subject: Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)

>In a message dated 99-01-07 14:09:57 EST, you write:
>
><< << Please don't hate me too much here, but does anyone know of a e-mail
>  ring for Monte Carlo  >>
>
> Who's Monte Carlo?
> You mean Monte Python? >>
>
>

Bla blah blah....

Why don't you guys just answer his question...and if you can't help him
then shut the f*ck up.  I am sick of these wasted threads.    I find it
funny that the people who don't know jack about cars are the ones who
expect help with their stupid questions and then give guys who really want
some help anwers like these.

Tony

70 442 W-30 Sports Coupe
70 442 W-30 convert
70 Toro GT W-34
65 Jetstar 88 w/4-speed
84 Hurst/Olds
85 Cutlass Salon 455 Drag Racer
92 Seville STS

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 14:47:16 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Dual Exhaust

Dave, 
Have a 67 442, no problem with cats, Just want to keep the 75, their both
primo, 75 was my Father's last car, make sense? 
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

- ----------
> From: Dave Paulison <dpauliso@juno.com>

> Here's a solution...buy a car that was made before they had cats.  No
> problem modifying my '69.  No cats to worry about! ;)
or 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 15:04:17 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Water in Gas?

Thomas, 
Dump a couple of cans of Heet in the tank, will get rid of the water, one
less thing to look for.
Lou

- ----------
> From: Thomas P. Smith <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Water in Gas?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 16:05:38 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)

Tony Waldner wrote:

> >In a message dated 99-01-07 14:09:57 EST, you write:
> >
> ><< << Please don't hate me too much here, but does anyone know of a e-mail
> >  ring for Monte Carlo  >>
> >
> > Who's Monte Carlo?
> > You mean Monte Python? >>
> >
> >
>
> Bla blah blah....
>
> Why don't you guys just answer his question...and if you can't help him
> then shut the f*ck up.  I am sick of these wasted threads.    I find it
> funny that the people who don't know jack about cars are the ones who
> expect help with their stupid questions and then give guys who really want
> some help anwers like these.
>
> Tony
>
> 70 442 W-30 Sports Coupe
> 70 442 W-30 convert
> 70 Toro GT W-34
> 65 Jetstar 88 w/4-speed
> 84 Hurst/Olds
> 85 Cutlass Salon 455 Drag Racer
> 92 Seville STS

and you guys thought Dick Miller had a bad disposition

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 16:09:37 EST
From: Fireman431@aol.com
Subject: Re: upholstery

Take it from an upholsterer. Doing the project yourself isn't that difficult.
Get reproduction covers from Year One (or other source) and lay them in the
sun to soften while you strip the old stuff off. Cut the hog rings with side
cutters and place the new stuff on. You will have tobuy hog rings and the
correct pliers (about 20.00 for everything) and STRETCH the crap out of it to
assure that it is tight. If you make a mistake, simply remove the rings and
try it again.

It really isn't that difficult. Good luck.

Larry Morgan Upholstery.....1966 442 convertible

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 16:06:28 -0500
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)

Tony Waldner wrote:

> >In a message dated 99-01-07 14:09:57 EST, you write:
> >
> ><< << Please don't hate me too much here, but does anyone know of a e-mail
> >  ring for Monte Carlo  >>
> >
> > Who's Monte Carlo?
> > You mean Monte Python? >>
> >
> >
>
> Bla blah blah....
>
> Why don't you guys just answer his question...and if you can't help him
> then shut the f*ck up.  I am sick of these wasted threads.    I find it
> funny that the people who don't know jack about cars are the ones who
> expect help with their stupid questions and then give guys who really want
> some help anwers like these.
>
> Tony
>
> 70 442 W-30 Sports Coupe
> 70 442 W-30 convert
> 70 Toro GT W-34
> 65 Jetstar 88 w/4-speed
> 84 Hurst/Olds
> 85 Cutlass Salon 455 Drag Racer
> 92 Seville STS

musta upset one of the "olds" gods........oops

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 15:25:38 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: exploding batteries

Peter, 
Had one go yesterday, in a Fo*d 250  Four W, PU we use for a snow plow and
spreader, reg was shorted, way to much voltage, brand new name batt, just
went "BOOM", only glad I wasn't checking something under the hood at that
moment, I didn't think batteries were supposed to steam like that!! 
Lou
- ----------
> From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: exploding batteries
> Date: Wednesday, January 06, 1999 12:59 AM
> 
> What type of battery was this? A name brand (AC Delco) or an old battery
> from K Mart? Not trying to be funny, but just wondering if the battery
> could be a cheap battery causing it to explode. My guess if it is a good
> battery overcharging could do it, but I never heard of this before. 
> Pettrix@prodigy.net
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 15:11:28 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Bravo

- ----------
> From: Patton <patton@ComCAT.COM>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Bravo
> Date: Tuesday, January 05, 1999 8:17 PM
> 
> 
> List,
>             Quick - Turn on the "Bravo" network..
> Yes - I will stop doing this some day....
> 
> The General

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 15:33:32 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Windshield and Backglass leaking

Arnold, Yes & yes, Pull the moulding, clean it and do the clear silicone
thing, will fix it temp, just remember to do it right come spring.
Lou

- ----------
> From: Arnold, W D <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
> To: 'olds' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Windshield and Backglass leaking
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 16:33:40 -0500
From: "Michael Davis" <mdavis@metrobankandtrust.com>
Subject: recent tv ad/olds siting

I was watching a tv commercial today for the new Ch*vy caviler where a
constuction worker with a magnet crane picks up a caviler to admire the
beauty, yea right..
As he puts the caviler back on the street, in the right corner you can see
the rear end from a side view of a dark blue 68' or 69' Cutlass.  Can't
tell if it was a 442 or anything.
Nice to see the even a glimpse of old beauty compared to the cookie cutter
newer cars.

						Mike Davis
						68' 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 16:49:14 EST
From: MAT68442@aol.com
Subject: Re: the diff between stock 307/HO 307

Mark
there are not alot of big differences in the standard code Y -307 and the code
9 -307
code 9 is the HO . A big difference in the engines is in the machining
tolerences , the HO 
has very tight machining tolerences . and also the HO engine has a bigger cam
and it's also 
a roller cam . 
The trans. in the cars with the HO engine (442s) have a shift kit in it also .


mark 
87 442
71 cutlass s 
68 442 convertible , someday

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 15:56:55 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: RE weather

K, 
I thought it was colder where he was, guess not!  I use Penn (non syn) 5W30
in winter, 10W30 in summer, except in the GMC up and Mama's Gran Prix, 5W30
all year for them, but with the "Hawk" in Chicago 30w seems a tad heavy
during warm up, does SOMs' lifters click (for a couple of sec) on a really
cold start up? Sure sign of too heavy oil. We were down to -15 F here last
week. You were colder then that I heard on the tube.
Lou
PS No additives for me, detergent only, keeps the impurities in suspension,
and no varnish to speak of.
- ----------
> From: KarlAune@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: RE weather

>  Since normally it doesn't get all that cold here I stick with 10W-30. >>
> 
> Due to a recent phobia of additives, karl is still using SAE30 (with
> detergent).
> 
> Is this bad?
> 
> K

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 8 Jan 1999 14:10:46 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RE weather

Right now it is sitting at about 8 below here in Fargo. Tonight is a
low of 20 below. I still carry 10W-30 Synthetic in the H*nda. Seems to
work fine. The transaxle fluid should be thinner at those temps
though! The Olds still carries the CAM2 15 weight since it never gets
driven in the winter time. But, last year I did fire it up in the
middle of the winter. (About 5 below that day) and the lifters only
clattered for a little bit. Oil pressure was really close to 80 though!

Del

- ---Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net> wrote:
>
> K, 
> I thought it was colder where he was, guess not!  I use Penn (non
syn) 5W30
> in winter, 10W30 in summer, except in the GMC up and Mama's Gran
Prix, 5W30
> all year for them, but with the "Hawk" in Chicago 30w seems a tad
heavy
> during warm up, does SOMs' lifters click (for a couple of sec) on a
really
> cold start up? Sure sign of too heavy oil. We were down to -15 F
here last
> week. You were colder then that I heard on the tube.
> Lou
> PS No additives for me, detergent only, keeps the impurities in
suspension,
> and no varnish to speak of.
> ----------
> > From: KarlAune@aol.com
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Re: RE weather
> 
> >  Since normally it doesn't get all that cold here I stick with
10W-30. >>
> > 
> > Due to a recent phobia of additives, karl is still using SAE30 (with
> > detergent).
> > 
> > Is this bad?
> > 
> > K
> 

==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 08 Jan 1999 17:14:48 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: the diff between stock 307/HO 307

> code 9 is the HO . A big difference in the engines is in the machining
> tolerences , the HO
> has very tight machining tolerences .

This is a very quick and spotty trip down the 9 vs. Y path. The
tolerances weren't really much different between the two engines.  One
difference right off, but hopefully not visible,  is the 9 has pressed
in pins on the pistons, while the Y uses floating.

 and also the HO engine has a bigger cam
> and it's also
> a roller cam .

ONLY if it is an 86 or newer.  In 83-85, the 9 engines had flat tappet
cams, and the Y engines had roller lifters. True, the 9 has a bit more
agressive profile.   MAJOR difference, and easy way to verify 9 engine
vs Y is that the Y engines have a thin, almost non existant harmonic
balancer, while the 9 engines have a "normal" thickness balancer.  The
"log" exhaust manifolds were used on Y engines, and regular looking cast
iron ones were used on the 9s.  ECM prom calibrations were different, as
well as carb.

> The trans. in the cars with the HO engine (442s) have a shift kit in it also 
.

Sorta.  The shift calibrations were a lot different until 86 I believe,
and the torque converter had slightly higher stall.  You'll find an OZ
code on 83-85 trannys with 9 engines.  Not sure what code was used on
86/87s though.  In essence, the 83-85 Hurst and 442 engines were
IDENTICAL except for date codes.  I bought my black 85 442 new, and it
has had the original carb since day one.  I didn't notice until a short
while back though that my carb had a restamped "5" over the "4" for the
year code.  hmmmmm....

Hope this clears up a bit of differences.
Mike Rothe

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1709
*********************************

