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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1759


oldsmobile-digest      Sunday, February 7 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1759



re restoration
P/S Locks And Pump Noise
Re: Bad Day...need '66 parts
Re: Need help w/ value.
F code was: My First 455 :  )
Re: F code was: My First 455 :  )
Re: Rochester Carbs
Olds powered Vector?
Re: Electrical Wiring
Re: Restoring '63 (98) (fwd)
Veneer sources
FS: 68-75+ Olds Parts
FS:  '57-'67 Olds Parts
Re: Special Plates
broken fuel gauage-Help
I need funds to buy Nash 5 speed
Re: Special Plates
Re: Olds powered Vector?
Re: Special Plates
Electrical Connectors
W-31 Clutch
trans fluid change
'65 to '64 Parts Interchange
Bushings: Rubber or Poly-graphite?
Re: Bushings: Rubber or Poly-graphite?
Re: trans fluid change
Re: Bushings: Rubber or Poly-graphite?
California emissions
Re: California emissions
Re: Bushings: Rubber or Poly-graphite?
Distributor Lube Questions
beetliju@bellsouth.net
Vacuum Problems - Check Valve
windown crank springs .....
clock conversion...........
Re: Olds 425/455 V8 in a AMC?
Re: clock conversion...........
Re: Sport Steering Wheels.
Fiberglass
Some Q's on a 307 to 455 swap
Re: '65 to '64 Parts Interchange
Fw: Winternatls. Missed post
Winternationals
Re: windown crank springs .....
Re: clock conversion...........
Re: windown crank springs .....
Re: trans fluid change
Fw: Winternationals
Re: windown crank springs .....
Re: window crank springs .....
Re: windown crank springs .....
Re: windown crank springs .....
Re: windown crank springs .....

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 00:03:12 -0500
From: "Jeanne Laroche" <jlaroche@together.net>
Subject: re restoration

Hi, I am very curious what you are being charged for getting your car
restored.  Is this with the bumpers rechromed?  New windlace on the inside
all around the doors and windows,  new rubbers, like around the windshield
and doors.  New head liner, reupholstered seats and new carpets.  No bondo,
all  metal?  Sorry, about all the questions, hope you get back to me - I'll
tell you how much we spent!!  The car we had done is a 1956 4 door Sedan
Oldsmobile.  I was very fortunate, that the engine was rebuilt by my
husband.  I painted the engine and all the other parts.  I also
reupholstered the trunk.  Whew!!!!  We had the transmission done 3 times
before it stopped leaking.  All the bushings were worn.  What kind of car
are you getting done?  hope to hear from you. see ya,

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 00:14:17 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: P/S Locks And Pump Noise

Dorian,

Although it's not fatal to the power steering system, I try to avoid it if at
all possible.  The fluid tries to lock up the pump, but there are safeguards
to prevent the pump from locking up, probably some type of bypass or designed-
in tolerances that make the pump only generate a certain amount of pressure.
If they weren't there, then trying to go past the steering stops could either
generate enough pressure to pop the hose on the pressure side or stall the
pump, which would either fry the belt or stall the engine (if the belt was
that good).

You're right about that sound, it's like dragging your fingernails across a
chalk board to some.  It really gets on my nerves when you hear that sound,
usually (not always!) means the owner of the offending vehicle hasn't taken
care to ensure the proper tension on the belts.  And if they can't take care
of the belts, who knows what else has been neglected...

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 00:39:18 EST
From: Oldsfire@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bad Day...need '66 parts

Check with Duane Sorensen  at dusorensen@aol.com  he has a 66 Delta 88 that he
is parting out!!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 01:51:31 EST
From: Oldsfire@aol.com
Subject: Re: Need help w/ value.

If the 425 with C heads needs to be completely rebuilt its worht about $200 to
$250!!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 02:08:07 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: F code was: My First 455 :  )

In a message dated 99-02-06 21:11:58 EST, you write:

<< I just got my First olds 455,shortblock ,it was magnaflux,hot tanked ,the
hol'9,bord .30 over.Is there anyway i can run the #er's To find out what year
it is?i do know it's a F0 Block,is that good? >>

The F codes were 1968-71 right?

Karl will go waaaay out on a limb here and say: 1968.

Happy Oldsmobiling!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 01:21:26 -0600
From: <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: F code was: My First 455 :  )

I didn't think we had ever actually come up with a way to positively
identify the years. I thought the F blocks just generically covered
'68-72 and the Fa blocks covered '72-'76. Did I miss a staff meeting
somewhere?

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

KarlAune@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 99-02-06 21:11:58 EST, you write:
> 
> << I just got my First olds 455,shortblock ,it was magnaflux,hot tanked ,the
> hol'9,bord .30 over.Is there anyway i can run the #er's To find out what year
> it is?i do know it's a F0 Block,is that good? >>
> 
> The F codes were 1968-71 right?
> 
> Karl will go waaaay out on a limb here and say: 1968.
> 
> Happy Oldsmobiling!
> 
> SOM
> 
> &KA
.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 02:22:30 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rochester Carbs

In a message dated 99-02-07 02:06:42 EST, you write:

<< ok illget it right for all ya....... it has a 455, 4 bbl. i dont know what
 trans it has. the secondaries are always open. the passing gear has never
 been engaged by me, cos i cant! the arb is dirty as heck too.
 ok ther we go. thanks >>

First, is it just the air valve on the top of the carb that is open, or is the
secondary throttle plate open always (you will have to look down from the top
to tell [[for goodness sake, do not use a match to see!!]] ).

If for some reason your air valve is open, but the throttle plate is closed,
additional fuel will get into the engine because the rods will be lifted out
of the secondary jets.

Unfortunately, am currently separated from my Q-Jets, or would opine about why
they are open.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 01:40:07 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Olds powered Vector?

As a follow-up to the speculation about a 600+ hp motor
in the Vector WX3, I got into contact with the owner of 
the website in question.  He told me that he got his info
on the motor from some obscure poster he had years
ago.  

After much searching on the web all I can tell is that the
motor in question is 7.0L, 32V V8.  I am not aware of 
any Olds motor that would fit this description as the 
IRL motors would have the valves but not the displacement,
and the DRCE motors would have the displacement
but not the valves.  

The thought has also occurred to me that since the earlier 
version of the car used a twin turbo sb cheby with a Donovan
block that the WX3 might have used the "Rocket Block"
which can be taken up to 7.0L, and there are 32V heads
made for the motor.  Anybody have any thoughts?

My head hurts now!
Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/
  

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 01:55:37 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Electrical Wiring

For the most part, no.  I've worked on several cars that had
overspray on sections of the wiring and after cleaning it off,
it was no more brittle than the rest of the harness.  The only
things to really worry about with wiring is heat and age.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/


>I have a question regarding electrical wiring. If paint or overspray gets
>on electrical wiring, does it make the wires more brittle or prone to
>crack?? OR does it have no effect whatsoever??
>
>
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 07:03:36 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Restoring '63 (98) (fwd)

Forwarded from Doug Kitchener... not on the list, respond to
reoreed@aol.com if you can assist. Sounds like a job for Everett... 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
hello Doug,

   Hope you are doing fine, and hope you can h*lp me on a 
question I have for you.
   When I was taking off the suspension on the "63", I broke the
rubber hose brake line on the right side of the car.  I can locate a
replacement for it but it would come from a 62 model.  What I am
having  to replace is the fitting from the back of the wheel cylinder and
the rubber brake hose itself.  Do you know if there is a reason why
the 62 would not fit the 63 also.  I can't find anything telling me that
it would make a difference, but I also can' t find a replacement for a 63.
   If you are able to h*lp me out I would appreciate it.

thanks again,   RON   
reoreed@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 09:06:48 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Veneer sources

Gary C. asked for these, but his mail keeps bouncing back to me, soo...

All these sources have thin veneers, and all will send you a free catalog.
Call all of them, 'cuz prices and available species differ between them.


Woodworker's Supply
1108 North Glenn Rd.
Casper, Wyoming
1-800-645-9292

The Woodworkers' Store
4635 Willow Drive
Medina, Mn.
1-800-279-4441

Woodcraft
PO Box 1686
Parkersburg, WV
1-800-535-4482

drc

Woodworking - my other passion in life.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 09:23:22 -0500
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: FS: 68-75+ Olds Parts

                                           C&M Classic Parts
                        1132 Chatmoss Drive, Virginia Beach, VA 23464
                                 (757)474-0869, FAX (757)474-0694
                                         
 <<mailto:chermac@exis.net>chermac@exis.net>
                                                OCA# 24275

 Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 PM - 10:00 PM,  Sat 9:00 AM - 3:00 PM,  Sunday
Closed
*We accept all major Credit Cards. VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and
Discover.*

New arrival "Parts"
68-69 Hurst Olds Dual Bail Master Cylinders $38.00 (+$18.00 core) 
68-72 Gas Tanks (Nice Repro)  $179.99
68-69 W-30 Ram Air Hoses (best repro)  $67.00 pr
70 OAI Hood (needs work)  $375.00
70-72 Hurst Dual Gate Shifter and console (good)  $275.00
68-72 Front Windshield Molding (set, mint) $45.00
64-72 Rear Sway Bar $45.00
64-72 Boxed Lower Control Arms (orig.)  $110.00 pr
71-72 Sport Mirrors $90.00 pr
68-72 "S" Hardtop Rear Window Molding (set, mint)  $45.00
69 442/Cutlass Hardtop Door RH (mint)  $100.00
TH350 W/shift kit  $75.00
71-72 Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $45.00
70-72 Heater Control Panel (nice)  $35.00
68-75+ Auto Trans Flex Plates  $35.00
83-84 Hurst Olds Lightning Rod shifter assm (no cable, nice)  $280.00
  
New Repro Parts:
70-72 Dash Chrome Bead (new)  $58.00 ea
67-70 Turn Signal Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea
67-70 Tilt Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea 
67-75 TH400 Shifter Cable Bracket (Repro)  $28.00
68-72 License Plate Bracket (Repro)  $26.50
68-70 W-31 Cam Kits (w/lifters & lube)  $132.00
68-72 1/4 Glass Chrome Moldings (Repro)  $92.00 pr
69-72 Rear Spoiler (3 piece repro)  $255.00
70-72 Hood Pin Kits (NEW, original supplier, complete setup) $115.00
71or72 442 Grille Numeral Sets (repro, either year)  $34.00 set
71-72 442 Hood Emblem (repro, Non OAI) $20.00
  
New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts 1964-1972 Olds/Cutlass/442
68 (N.O.S.) Cutlass/442 Turn Signal Lens (front, 2 prs)  $25.00 pr
68-72+ TH Torque Converter Cover (Plastic, N.O.S.)  $36.00 ea
66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
69-72 442 Trunk Numeral Sets (N.O.S.) $50.00 set
69-70 442 Hood Numeral Sets  (N.O.S.) $50.00 set
69-72 442 Fender Numeral Sets (N.O.S.) $38.00 set
70-72 Hurst Dual Gate Shifter Cable (N.O.S.)  $55.00
70-72 OAI Air Cleaner Springs (N.O.S)  $5.00 ea
71-72 Front Grille Plastics (N.O.S)  $35.00 ea                        
 
USED PARTS:
68 Cutlass/442
68 Hood Hinges  $50.00 pr
68-69 LH Post Coupe Door (very nice)  $75.00
68 Cutlass Grille (mint)  $125.00
68 8 Track Player (needs work, nice unit, housing broken)  $35.00
68 Front Bumper (nice w 2 small dings)  $125.00
68 442 Air Cleaner Heat tube assm (2 pieces)  $30.00
68-69 442/W-30 400 Intake Manifold  $50.00
68 Trunk Vinyl Top Molding & Plate  $25.00
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
68 Cutlass Rear Bumper (core)  $75.00
68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $35.00              
Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set                               
68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00                     
68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $25.00 ea
68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea                                
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Sets (black, mint) $27.50 pr 

69 Cutlass/442
68-69 LH Post Coupe Door (very nice)  $75.00
69 Rear Side Marker Lights  $35.00 pr
68-69 Front Side Marker Lights  $17.00 pr
68-69 Glove Box Door  $15.00
69 Front Turn Signal Lens  $30.00 pr
69 Cutlass, H/O, 442 Dash Woodgrain (mint orig, minus ash tray)  $30.00 
69 Cutlass/442 Conv trunk lid (mint)  $150.00
69 Hood Tongue $20.00
68-69 442/W-30 400 Intake Manifold  $50.00
69 Front Grille Center Filler (between grilles)  $8.00
69 Full Hubcaps (nice)  $35.00 set
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
69-72 Hood Hinges  $40.00 pr
69-70 "S" Hood Louver Chrome  $25.00 pr
69-70 "S" Hood Louver Moldings  $25.00 pr
68-72 Windshield Molding Sets  $45.00 set                                 
69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $35.00 ea
69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $25.00 ea
69 Cutlass/442 Wiper Switch $25.00

70 Cutlass/442
70 "E" Heads  $125.00 pr
70 442/SX Rear Bumper (rechrome, nice)  $285.00
70 Hood Tongue $40.00
70 Front Bumper (core)  $75.00
70 Fender Eyebrows (nice, no pits)  $45.00 pr
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
70 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr
70-71 Halo Vinyl Top Molding sets no "L " moldings (mint) $55.00 set
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea             
70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00                                    
69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00                                
70 "S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr         
70-72 Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens (restored)  $15.00 ea
70 Cutlass Supreme Tail Light Lens (restored) $23.00 ea

71 Cutlass/442
70-71 Cutlass Supreme Side Marker Lights $60.00 set
71 Cutlass "S" Grilles (nice used)  $100.00 pr
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $30.00 pr
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $10.00 ea
71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set
70-72 C/S LH/RH Side Glass  $25.00 ea 
71 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr

72 Cutlass/442
72 Cutlass Supreme LH Grille (N.O.S.)  $52.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $30.00 pr
71-72 Power Lock Switches  $10.00 ea
72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00                                  
72 Headlight Bezels (restored) $40.00 pr            
72 Tail Light Lens  $13.00 ea used, $26.00 ea (N.O.S.)

81-88 Cutlass / 442 / Hurst/Olds (N.O.S. unless noted)
81-84 Tail Light Assm (used, mint pair)  $150.00
83/84 H/O, 85-87 442 Air Cleaner Assm (nice used)  $200.00
Rear Hood Molding and (2) Top Fender Moldings  $70.00 set
Center Hood Molding  $35.00
Pwr Antenna $175.00
Front Bumper Chrome Stripes (2) $85.00 ea
85-88 LH&RH Taillight Assm  $125.00 ea
85-88 LH&RH Taillight Bezels  $85.00 ea
Rear Bumper Chrome Strips and clip ends  $345.00
Rear Bumper Emblem "Oldsmobile"  $30.00
Front Bumper Emblem "Oldsmobile"  $30.00
Dash Emblem "Oldsmobile"  $15.00
Rear Window molding set (4 pieces)  $230.00
Dash Gauge Plastic Lens  $45.00
Front Windshield Molding Set (3 pieces) $210.00
Front Windshield Large Lower Molding  $68.00
(4) Front and Rear Side Marker Lens  $120.00 set
(2) Dash Vents (Center)  $20.00 ea
(2) Dash Vents (Long Pass. Side)  $23.00 ea
Rear View Mirror  $70.00
LH&RH Rear Side Windows (w/chrome Bead)  $200.00 ea
LH&RH Door Seals  $150.00 ea
Radiator Insulators (Upper and Lower)  $8.00 ea
LH&RH Door Sill Plates  $70.00 ea
85-88 Pwr Window Switch (2 button Drivers side)  $73.00
Air Cleaner Air Inlet Duct  $24.00
LH&RH Door Handles  $58.00 ea
LH&RH Turn Signal Lens Assm  $34.00 ea
LH&RH Side Window Molding sets  $inquire
LH&RH Grilles $85.00 ea
LH&RH Headlight Bezels  $42.00 ea 
  
New reproduction parts:
Convertible Top Boots (Correct Grains for each different year)  $89.00ea
64  Black, Red, Lt. Blue, Fawn, Saddle, Turquoise, White
65  Same as 64  
66-67 Black, Red, Light Blue, Med. Blue, Bronze, Turquoise, White, Gold
68-72 Black, Red, Parchment, Lt. Blue, Teal Blue, Green Gold, Gold, Pearl,
Dk Blue, Dk. Green, Lt. Green, Lt. Saddle, Dk Saddle, Olive Green, Royal
Blue, White, Sandalwood, 

Molded Carpet Sets  $95.00 
64-67 - (Black, Red, Med. Blue, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Maroon)
68-72 - (Black, Red, Maroon, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Med. Blue, Dk.
Green,
Green Gold, Lt. Green, Teal Blue, Saddle, Sandalwood)
73-77 - (Same as 68-72 except Green Gold)

Door Panels  64-72  $265.00 for a set of all 4

Seat Covers  64-72  $325.00 front and rear sets any year or color.

Lifetime Guarantee on all correct bead window felts  $92.00 set (inner &
outer)
66-67 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (correct bead type) 
68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (not Supreme Coupes, correct bead) 
68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv (Outers only, correct bead)  $50.00

Outers Only available for some cars please inquire.  $54.00 set 

Replacement Window Felts (Flat type)  $60.00 set (inner & outer)
64-72 Cutlass/442 (state year and model)

Glove Box Liners
64-67 Glove box Liner w/clips  $15.99
68-69 Glove box Liner w/clips  $15.99
70-72 Glove box Liner w/clips  $15.99

Qrt Seals
70-72 Cutlass Supreme & Conv Qtr End seals  $13.00 pr

Hood Insulation
64-65 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
66 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
67 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
68-70 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner (w clips)  $18.00
70-72 Cutlass Supreme Hood Liner (w/clips)  $18.00
73-77 Cutlass $28.00

Liner Clips
Round Clips  $1.00 ea
Square Clips  $1.00 ea

A-Arm Shields
68-72 Upper A-Arm dust shields  $17.99 pr

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 09:42:30 -0500
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: FS:  '57-'67 Olds Parts

                                  C&M Classic Parts
                      1132 Chatmoss Drive, Virginia Beach, VA 23464
                            (757)474-0869, FAX (757)474-0694
                                <chermac@exis.net>
                                        OCA# 24275

        Hours:  Mon.-Fri.  4:00 PM - 10:00 PM,  Sat. 9:00 AM - 3:00 PM,  
        CLOSED Sunday
        *We accept all major Credit Cards: VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and 
        Discover.*

                             OLDSMOBILE Restoration Parts

New arrival "Parts"
65 442/Cutlass RH Rear Quarter Molding (nice)  $50.00
64-65 Dash Pad (mint, maroon)  $275.00
64-65 Speedometer Assm  $35.00
64-67 AM Radio (mint, looks new, works great)  $75.00
64-69 Vacuum Gauge (console mount, mint)  $100.00
64-66 Console Tach (nice)  $75.00
66-67 OAI Hoses (best repro) $65.00 pr
66 442 Fender Vents (pitted)  $75.00 pr
66 442 LH Fender (mint) $300.00
66 442 LH Tail Light assm (fair to good) $100.00 
66 442 Tail Light Assm (fair to good) $100.00
66 LH/RH Outside Mirror (good driver) $15.00
66 442/Cutlass LH Inner Fenderwell (very nice) $75.00
66-67 Fan Shroud (mint orig.,w/brackets)  $125.00
67 Cutlass Hood (mint)  $100.00
67 442/Cutlass Supreme Rear Qtr Moldings (no pits, decent chrome) $90.00 pr
67 442/Cutlass Supreme Rear Bumper (nice)  $135.00
66 442 Tri -Carb "B"  "V" and "T" coded Dash - 1 heads (nice, casting dates
137&138)  $375.00 pr
67 442 W-30 "C" Heads (VG code, drilled and plugged)  $375.00 pr
66-67 442 3.55 gear set 8.2" 10 bolt  (nice) $100.00
66-67 Wiper transmissions  $40.00 ea
66-67 Cutlass/F-85 4 door Sedan Front Doors (mint)  $100.00 pr
66-67 Cowl Panels (mint)  $35.00 ea
66-67 Cutlass/442 Dash Harness (w/o gauges, mint, looks new)  $175.00
66-67 Post Coupe Lt Blue Arm rest pads (like new)  $15.00 ea
66-67 Sunvisor (RH, w / mirror, mint)  $15.00
67 Cutlass 4 door, Front and Rear Seats (blue, very nice)  $150.00 both
67 Cutlass 4 door, Door Panels (blue, mint)  $65.00 for all 4
67 442/Cutlass Trunk Panel (good chrome, NO pits)  $65.00
66-67 442 4 spd Chassis (rolling, very good cond)  $250.00
66 Rear Bumper Core  $55.00
66 442 W-30 Inner/Outer Bumper Ducts (new doesn't include hoses)  $550.00 set
66 442 W-30 Inner Ducts  $400.00 pr  
64-72 Boxed Lower Control Arms (originals)  $110.00 pr
67 442 Grille Bar (orig., nice)  $45.00
66-67 Dash Pad (red, good, 1 tiny crack)  $85.00
66-67 Holiday 2 dr Quarter Panel RH (good)  $150.00
67 442 Grille (nice)  $50.00
67 Hardtop door panels $50.00 pr
66-67 Dash Chrome Insert (nice, minor repair done, nice chrome)  $100.00
64-65 Radiator Top Plate  $35.00
65-67 400 Pistons (std, used) $40.00 set of 8
53 (N.O.S.) 88/98 Hood Emblem (in box)  $125.00 
57 (N.O.S.) 88/98 Taillight Lens (1 only)  $35.00
57 (Repro) 88/98 Taillight Lens (2)  $40.00 pr
60 (N.O.S.) 88/98 RH Taillight assm. w/chrome  $145.00
64-66 Auto Console (black, w/wiring, nice)  $125.00
         
New Repro Parts:
64-67 Battery Tray (Repro)  $30.00
66 442 Tri-Carb Linkage Kit (complete) $78.00
67 442 Grille Bar (repro)  $92.00
66-67 442/Cutlass Drip Rail Moldings (NEW, repro) $78.00 set
67-70 Turn Signal Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea
67-70 Tilt Levers (repro)  $26.00 ea 

New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts 1964-1972 Olds/Cutlass/442
64-72 Clutch Inspection covers (N.O.S.)  $22.00 ea
66-67 Upper Radiator Hose  $27.00 ea
67-75 TH400 Shifter Cable Bracket (N.O.S.)  $24.00
68-75+ TH350 Shifter Cable Bracket (N.O.S.)  $24.00
68-72+ TH Torque Converter Cover (Plastic, N.O.S.)  $36.00 ea
66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea

Used Parts:
64 Cutlass/442                       
(2) 64-65 2 Bar Spinners (N.O.S.)  $50.00 pr
64-65 330/400 Valve Covers (nice)  $25.00 pr
64-65 Cutlass/442 Conv Rear Side Glass (mint)  $80.00 pr
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  $50.00
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
RH Headlight Bezel  $15.00                                                  
Front Bumper Core  $50.00                                                   
F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00 

65 Cutlass/442
65 400 442 4-Jet Carb (rebuilt)  $175.00
65 442 Grille (nice used)  $125.00
65 Cutlass Grille (good used)  $75.00
65 442 RH Fender (no rust, small ding)  $300.00
64-65 330/400 Valve Covers (nice)  $35.00 pr
64-65 Cutlass/442 Conv Rear Side Glass (mint)  $80.00 pr
65 442 Air Cleaner Top (no base)  $85.00 ea
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  $50.00
65 Cutlass Dash Emblem (mint)  $35.00
65 Cutlass 4 Door Rear Wheelwell Die cast pieces (front)  $20.00 pr
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings  LH/RH rear $15.00 ea
64-65 F-85 Steering Wheel Center (mint)  $15.00

66 Cutlass/442
66 Cutlass Post Coupe Rear Side Panels (black, rare w/woodgrain, nice)  $50.00
pr
66-67 Post Coupe Doors (mint)  $150.00 pr
66 442/Cutlass Radiator Support (nice, blasted no rust)  $125.00
66-67 SSI Wheels (nice not perfect, 5)  $250.00 set
66-67 RH "W" Exhaust Manifold (mint)  $125.00
66-67 442 Air Cleaner (2)  $85.00 ea
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  $50.00
66 F-85 Trunk Lid Emblem $10.00
66 F-85 Trunk Lid Molding  $20.00
66 Floor Shift Steering Column Collars $10.00 ea
66-67 Clocks  $40.00 ea
66 F-85 Deluxe Dash Emblem (nice)  $15.00
66 Cutlass Trunk Lid Molding  $35.00
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
66 Cutlass Trunk Molding (very good)  $45.00
66 Cutlass Tail Light Bezels (very good)  $65.00 pr
66 F-85/Cutlass grille (nice)   $55.00
66 F-85/Cutlass grille (good)  $35.00 
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
66 Cutlass/442 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
Post Coupe Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00 pr
F-85/Cutlass Taillight Lens  $10.00 ea                                  

67 Cutlass/442
67 442 W-30 UHV system (complete w/ N.O.S coil and experimental distributor) 
$550.00
67 442 W-30 Core Support (factory stamped, bent on LH side)  $145.00
67 Front Bumper Filler Panel (mint)  $40.00
67 442/Cutlass Radiator Support (nice)  $130.00
66-67 442 Air Cleaner (2)  $85.00 ea
67 Deluxe Full Wheel Covers $35.00 set
67 442/Cutlass Radiator Support (nice, blasted no rust)  $125.00
66-67 Clocks  $40.00 ea
67 Cutlass Dash Emblem (good)  $10.00
67 Cutlass Supreme Dash Emblems (2 very nice)  $20.00 ea
67 442/Cutlass Front Bumper Guards  $15.00 pr
67 Remote Mirror (good, not great)  $20.00
67 F-85 Steering Wheel Center (good chrome) $15.00
67 Cutlass Supreme/442 Steering Wheel Centers (mint)  $35.00 
67 Fender End Caps  $30.00 pr
67 4 spd Speedometer Adapter (3.42 gears & 4spd)  $45.00
67 Cutlass Fender Emblems (nice)  $10.00 ea
67 Plain Cutlass Fender Rockets (nice)  $5.50 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
67 Cutlass Headlight Bezels (nice)  $50.00 pr
67 442 Trunk Lids (clean)  $90.00 ea
67 RH Fender (small metal patch panel, straight)  $135.00

Big Car Parts:
66 Toro Batman Steering Wheel, Tilt/Tele column (black, very nice)  $145.00
 

New reproduction parts:
Convertible Top Boots (Correct Grains for each different year)  $89.00ea
64  Black, Red, Lt. Blue, Fawn, Saddle, Turquoise, White
65  Same as 64  
66-67 Black, Red, Light Blue, Med. Blue, Bronze, Turquoise, White, Gold
68-72 Black, Red, Parchment, Lt. Blue, Teal Blue, Green Gold, Gold, Pearl,
Dk Blue, Dk. Green, Lt. Green, Lt. Saddle, Dk Saddle, Olive Green, Royal
Blue, White, Sandalwood, 

Molded Carpet Sets  $95.00 
64-67 - (Black, Red, Med. Blue, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Maroon)
68-72 - (Black, Red, Maroon, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Med. Blue, Dk. Green,
Green Gold, Lt. Green, Teal Blue, Saddle, Sandalwood)

73-77 - (Same as 68-72 except Green Gold)

Door Panels  64-72  $265.00 for a set of all 4

Seat Covers  64-72  $335.00 front and rear sets any year or color.

Vinyl Dash Overlays (makes your wood dash areas look like carbon fiber)
$50.00 set 

Lifetime Guarantee on all correct bead window felts  $92.00 set (inner & outer)
66-67 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (correct bead type) 
68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (not Supreme Coupes, correct bead) 
68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv (Outers only, correct bead)  $50.00

Replacement Window Felts (Flat type)  $60.00 set (inner & outer)
64-72 Cutlass/442 (state year and model)

Glove Box Liners
64-67 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
68-69 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99
70-72 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $15.99

Qrt Seals
70-72 Cutlass Supreme & Conv Qtr End seals  $13.00 pr

Hood Insulation
64-65 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
66 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
67 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $18.00
68-70 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner (w/clips)  $18.00
70-72 Cutlass Supreme Hood Liner (w/clips)  $18.00
73-77 Cutlass $28.00

Liner Clips
Round Clips  $1.00 ea
Square Clips  $1.00 ea

A-Arm Shields
68-72 Upper A-Arm dust shields  $14.99 pr

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 09:46:26 -0500
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Special Plates

CPEARLPARK@aol.com wrote:
> 
> You guys have been real creative with other such requests for suggestions.
> Let's try this...  In Massachusetts, I can get a 6-character plate, but it
> must begin with 2 letters, then any combo of 4 other characters.  What would
> be good for a 71 442 convertible (Viking Blue)?
> Scott
> 71 442 Conv

RT 442 (RT=ragtop)
MY 442 
OLD442
DROLDS
MY 71
HOT442

You get the idea, the list really is endless
- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
95 Aurora 
OCA# 30442

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 10:23:06 -0600
From: "patrick derkacz" <patrickd@wwnet.com>
Subject: broken fuel gauage-Help

The fuel gauge in my '69 442 reads half full(or half empty, depending on
your perspective) no matter what.  Any clues whether it is the gauge or the
sending unit.  Anyone know any simple way to test it?

as always, any help is appreciated.

patrickd@wwnet.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 10:46:28 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: I need funds to buy Nash 5 speed

Hello all,
 I know some of you will remember me bashing the commercial adds on the
list.  I hope I'm not going to be seen as a hypocrite capitalist, but...

 I've always wanted a stick racecar, and a local guy has a pro-shifted Doug 
Nash
5 speed and Long brand shifter that I would like to put in my 64 Cutlass. I'm 
trying to put
the funds together, so I have these items I'd like to sell;

1. complete "J" head 455 engine, has stick crank [needs turned] $125

2. '67 425 10.25-1 engine. 39 degree/.842, all std. No heads.  $250

3. nice std/std 425 crank - $125

4. 64 Cutlass floor shift tach $100

5. 64 Cutlass console for parts [missing some small parts, no shifter] $50  obo

6. "blueprinted" TH 400/10" 3800 convertor. 50 passes/2000 street miles 
$200ea/$350 both.
     [my 3500 lb car went 11.41, with a 1.54 60' time with it]

7.  '64 Cutlass manual steering box, pitman, idler, centerlink. Blasted and 
painted. $125.

All+ shipping. I'm at zip 21532 [western Maryland]

If interested, please e-mail me direct to keep from wasting space here.

Dave Brode
64 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 11:07:39 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Special Plates

   TOPLES.....ROCKET......OLDS71......MUSCLE.....CRUZIN......SVNTY1.......
          Thats if for now.... 
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">Hot Rod Harrys 1973
Cutlass</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 11:16:03 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds powered Vector?

In a message dated 2/7/1999 2:43:37 AM Eastern Standard Time,
mbloomer@mindspring.com writes:

<< that the WX3 might have used the "Rocket Block"
 which can be taken up to 7.0L, and there are 32V heads
 made for the motor.  Anybody have any thoughts? >>

Wasn't the "rocket block" a SBC?  If so there are 4 valve heads for SBCs

Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 06 Feb 1999 11:27:34 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: Special Plates

I have noticed some people taking duplicate plates by adding X's to
them, thereby making a whole different plate.  For example, someone
loves Long Beach Island, and they want plates that say LBI, but it is
already taken (I've seen it) so, a quick solution is to have X LBI X as
your new plates.  I have also seen LXBXI but that takes too much
brainpower to figure out at first glance.
Just my $.02
Brian

KarlAune@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 99-02-06 09:51:25 EST, you write:
> 
> << I can get a 6-character plate, but it must begin with 2 letters, then any
> combo of 4 other characters.  What would be good for a 71 442 convertible
> (Viking Blue)? >>
> 
> So, you have already thought of VBL442, and similar...
> 
> How about;
> 
> ICUNRV    - nah, too obscure
> 
> NTWRTY   - nope, requires imagination
> 
> TQMSTR   -  assumes too much about others intelligence.
> 
>  -  MOBILE   - where (-) is electrical tape. Sometimes blunt is best.
> 
> TORQUE -  again, makes assumptions, but might be within grasp of most
> 
> VIK BLU -  because it is.
> 
> DRPTOP - ditto.
> 
> And if you were wondering, yah, there ~is~ something missing from my
> suggestions.
> 
> Karl assumes most folk can read "4 4 2" on the emblems and do not need to
> check the licence plate to verify authenticity.
> 
> SOM
> 
> &KA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 11:42:38 EST
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Electrical Connectors

	I am in the final phase of my Rallye 350 restoration, and in need of 
some
electrical connectors for the dash harnesses. I suppose I could go to the junk
yard and pick up a bunch of them. Does anyone know if they make these or where
I can get them? I want the harnesses to look factory. Anyone have any
suggestions?
Thanks,
Jim McKeague
70 Rallye 350
70 Cutlass S W31
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html">Dr. Olds350's Page</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 11:46:05 EST
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: W-31 Clutch

	I would like to put a new clutch in my '70 W-31 this spring. Could 
someone
tell me the size that I would need for street use. Back in 1970 I purchased a
zoom clutch and pressure plate for my '69 GTO. It was a good clutch with a lot
of pedal pressure. Is Zoom still around? Think they would make a clutch for a
W-31? Any suggestions on a good manufacturer and an approx. cost would be
appreciated.
Thanks, 
Jim McKeague
70 Rallye 350
70 Cutlass S W-31
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html">Dr.Olds350's Page</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 06 Feb 1999 12:09:29 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: trans fluid change

Hi all, 
I want to change the trans fluid and filter in my 86 CSB.  I have the
standard three speed non overdrive automatic transmission of the 200
variety.  I know some of the fluid is trapped in the torque converter,
so how much should I expect to get out/put back in the car so as to
avoid overfilling it?  Also, it seems to be getting a little sleepy
going into reverse (engages fine but takes a little longer than it
should somtimes) and seems to have the beginnings of a slip sometimes
from a stop light.  Otherwise it shifts fine.  I have been told that if
I were to fill it with the regular fluid (type A?) but keep it one quart
low and put one quart of type F fluid that it would help with these
sorts of things....Any thoughts or recommendations on this will be
greatly appreciated.
Brian.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 12:34:37 -0500
From: Gene Gatti <jerseydevil@mindspring.com>
Subject: '65 to '64 Parts Interchange

Hi Guys,
   I have a '64 Cutlass that I am trying to gather parts for. There is a
junkyard nearby that has two '65's. Will the parts like inner fenders, hood
hinges, core support, and fenders fit my '64? 
Thanks,
Gene

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 12:40:23 -0500
From: Gene Gatti <jerseydevil@mindspring.com>
Subject: Bushings: Rubber or Poly-graphite?

Hi Guys,
   Has anyone rebuilt their front end with the polygraphite bushings from
PST? I'm going to rebuild me but need some help deciding whether to use poly
or rubber bushings. Will the poly bushings give me a harsh ride quality? I
really don't want to feel every stone on the road. Thanks,
Gene

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 11:43:36 -0600
From: "Greg" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Bushings: Rubber or Poly-graphite?

I have the full PST front bushing set in poly-whatever.  The ride is
definitly not stiff.  Bushings aren't supposed to cushion the ride, they
allow the suspension to pivot.  Springs and shocks are what give you a firm
or soft ride.  The poly bushings don't deflect while cornering like rubber
does and keeps the suspension geometry in check.

They don't squeek under normal driving, but do when going over speed bumps.
I think it's worth it though.  I installed them myself, and it was
straight-foward.  The only part you'll need help on is installing the upper
A-arm bushings.  I took them to the local gas station and they pressed them
on for about $10 (off the car that is).

While you're under there put in some KYB shocks ($60 a pair from PST).  They
made the most dramatic difference in my '71 cutlass.  Now the car does
wallow up and down on bumpy roads.

- -greg z
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gene Gatti <jerseydevil@mindspring.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, February 07, 1999 11:38 AM
Subject: Bushings: Rubber or Poly-graphite?


>Hi Guys,
>   Has anyone rebuilt their front end with the polygraphite bushings from
>PST? I'm going to rebuild me but need some help deciding whether to use
poly
>or rubber bushings. Will the poly bushings give me a harsh ride quality? I
>really don't want to feel every stone on the road. Thanks,
>Gene
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 12:44:36 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: trans fluid change

In a message dated 2/7/99 9:10:21 AM Pacific Standard Time, cshankle@home.com
writes:

<< Hi all, 
 I want to change the trans fluid and filter in my 86 CSB.  I have the
 standard three speed non overdrive automatic transmission of the 200
 variety.  I know some of the fluid is trapped in the torque converter,
 so how much should I expect to get out/put back in the car so as to
 avoid overfilling it?  Also, it seems to be getting a little sleepy
 going into reverse (engages fine but takes a little longer than it
 should somtimes) and seems to have the beginnings of a slip sometimes
 from a stop light.  Otherwise it shifts fine.  I have been told that if
 I were to fill it with the regular fluid (type A?) but keep it one quart
 low and put one quart of type F fluid that it would help with these
 sorts of things....Any thoughts or recommendations on this will be
 greatly appreciated.
 Brian. >>

       Brian, from what I know of Type F fluid, it contains less additives in
it, so it shifts a little harder, but also wears the clutches faster. So I've
been told. The fluid your thinking of is Dexron, which is the normal GM trans
fluid. I know they are at least up to Dexron 3 so far, and 3 is the
replacement for Dexron 1 and 2. Haynes manual says 3.5 qts for a "routine
fluid change" (don't believe everything you read..it could be wrong) 
      I always save oil/transmission bottles to put tranny fluid in..local
places won't recycle it, and it tells you almost exactly how much fluid you
have removed by pouring it into the empty bottles. Changing fluid has never
solved any slipping or slow reverse engagement shifting problems I've ever
had, that meant get ready for a rebuild : (  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 12:48:03 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bushings: Rubber or Poly-graphite?

In a message dated 2/7/99 9:38:36 AM Pacific Standard Time,
jerseydevil@mindspring.com writes:

<< Hi Guys,
    Has anyone rebuilt their front end with the polygraphite bushings from
 PST? I'm going to rebuild me but need some help deciding whether to use poly
 or rubber bushings. Will the poly bushings give me a harsh ride quality? I
 really don't want to feel every stone on the road. Thanks,
 Gene >>

       Gene, seen a similar thread on another list (not admitting which either
hehe) and the main concern didn't seem to be the suspension aspect...it was
the noise. Most people complained that they were just too squeaky...some
enough that they dread driving their car! Some had gone to the length of
installing zerk(SP) fittings in the bushings that they could, so they could
periodically grease them. My friend has some on his '70 Mustang, and I can
tell you that the car sounds horrible riding in it (the bushings too hehe)
Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 12:52:31 -0600
From: "Greg" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: California emissions

I'm going to be moving to San Diego soon (I'm U.S. Navy) and I need to know
what the emissions rules are.

I have a '71 olds cutlass with lots of modifications (intake, cam, carb,
headers, etc.)  Being military, I'm hoping I won't have to register the car
in CA if I keep my claimed residence in Florida.

Anyone know the scoop?

- -greg z

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 14:12:06 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: California emissions

In a message dated 2/7/99 10:57:19 AM Pacific Standard Time,
zimmermangm@email.msn.com writes:

<< I'm going to be moving to San Diego soon (I'm U.S. Navy) and I need to know
 what the emissions rules are.
 
 I have a '71 olds cutlass with lots of modifications (intake, cam, carb,
 headers, etc.)  Being military, I'm hoping I won't have to register the car
 in CA if I keep my claimed residence in Florida.
 
 Anyone know the scoop?
 
 -greg z >>

       Greg, my friends sister is in the USMC, at Camp Pendleton, and to get a
base sticker she had to pass CA emissions! She is a WA state resident, but I
guess it depends on the branch. I know others that are stationed here in the
Army, but are from Texas, but don't have to do any kind of emissions testing
here. 
       On the emissions note, her truck is an '82 Chev K5 (full size Blazer)
originally a 305, that she had GM put a 350 in. I assume it still had the
cat/AIR stuff on it, but I thought CA was picky enough to catch that. I guess
not. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 14:46:34 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Bushings: Rubber or Poly-graphite?

Gene,
    I can't tell you about anything other than my experience with "poly"
bushings... I put the complete set up both front and rear in my '82 Cutlass and
absolutely love them - but I haven't had any problems with them squeaking 
though.
Now some food for thought... these kits come with a silicone based grease that 
is
supposed to be used during the installation of these bushings.  A friend of 
mine
had a reputable outfit install the bushings in his Monte SS and it squeaks with
nearly every bump - BUT after we got looking at it we noticed that you couldn't
see any residual grease near any of the bushings!  When he went back to 
confront
the shop that installed them they told him "...we don't use that stuff, our 
press
has more than enough power to press the bushings in place without that goo..."
Needless to say he was a little less than pleased - we ended up putting grease
zerks in his bushing to help get rid of the squeaks - but it still isn't as 
quiet
as my Olds.  Just something to consider...
Todd Daenzer
All the toys put away for the winter...
PS - I used the kit from Energy Suspension - maybe there is a diff between them
and PST?

DYeager535@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 2/7/99 9:38:36 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> jerseydevil@mindspring.com writes:
>
> << Hi Guys,
>     Has anyone rebuilt their front end with the polygraphite bushings from
>  PST? I'm going to rebuild me but need some help deciding whether to use poly
>  or rubber bushings. Will the poly bushings give me a harsh ride quality? I
>  really don't want to feel every stone on the road. Thanks,
>  Gene >>
>
>        Gene, seen a similar thread on another list (not admitting which 
either
> hehe) and the main concern didn't seem to be the suspension aspect...it was
> the noise. Most people complained that they were just too squeaky...some
> enough that they dread driving their car! Some had gone to the length of
> installing zerk(SP) fittings in the bushings that they could, so they could
> periodically grease them. My friend has some on his '70 Mustang, and I can
> tell you that the car sounds horrible riding in it (the bushings too hehe)
> Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 14:44:45 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Distributor Lube Questions

I now have an HEI distributor and have disassembled it; it's in pretty
good shape.  When I removed the grease seal beneath the pickup, I
noticed the grease in the little reservoir around the upper bushing was
hard and dried out.  I actually picked the old grease out in chunks.  It
was almost as hard as beeswax.  My questions are:

1.  I assume the grease should not be that hard, correct?  Since the
distributor is 20+ years old it seems quite reasonable to me that it
could be that dried and hard by now.

2.  What is the best grease to use in the reservoir, so that it still
gets drawn out of the little feed holes in the upper bushing to lube the
shaft?  Year One sells a "Shaft and Gear Lube," which costs $23 for just
12 1/2 ounces.  Ouch!  I have a small tub of molybdenum-disulfide
fortified disc brake bearing grease.  Would that be okay to use?  Or is
there some other special grease I should get (hopefully, I don't have to
spring $23 for Year One's stuff)?

Sorry if these questions seem a bit...naive and simplistic.  But, the
longer I'm on this list the more I discover I didn't know as much as I
thought and that little things like this can come back some day and bite
you in the posterior .  Appreciate the help.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 15:10:26 -0500
From: beetleju@bellsouth.net
Subject: beetliju@bellsouth.net

i would like to have info. an pictures of an oldsmobil 442 convertable
1971

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 15:27:17 -0500
From: "jlabay" <jlabay@neo.rr.com>
Subject: Vacuum Problems - Check Valve

I have been having vacuum problems with my 80 442 ever since mid summer.
Just last month I had the Quadrajet professionally rebuilt and it was done
to stock specs.  When I hook up the vacuum hoses according to stock specs, I
cannot get the car to idle down at all. I have to manually knock the fast
idle cam down.  Can the Vaccum Check Valve that screws into the top of the
manifold go bad? This 8 port thing is where the carb is supposed to get
vacuum to kick down the idle. No vacuum comes out of there.  When I do find
a hose with vac and hook it up to the carb to kick the idle down, it does,
but when in gear the car runs rough.  This is driving me nuts.  When the vac
lines were all hooked up wrong and some plugged up the car ran better.  I
put new lines on, rebuild the carb and run the hoses according to stock
specs and the car runs worse. The only thing I haven't changed is that check
valve on the manifold.  I never heard of those going bad though.

Jason Labay
80 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 15:48:13 -0500
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: windown crank springs .....

OK Folks,

        Did all 64-72 GM cars have window crank
tension springs installed between the door panels
and the cranks ???????   just the upper lines  ????

Tanks
The General          :o{)}

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 15:49:51 -0500
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: clock conversion...........

Who do we use for conversion to quartz
clocks for our cars ?????????

Tanks
The General     :o{)}

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 16:00:41 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Olds 425/455 V8 in a AMC?

>>Got a friend with a 1990 AMC/Jeep Grand Wagoneer with a poor excuse for 
 [snip]
>Surprised y'all are so unhappy with the existing 360; I've had AMCs with 
>360s and have been most happy.  (Happier, of course, with 401s, but like 
>you said try and find one today.)  But I agree with the beauty of an 
>Olds 455 in one.  Looking forward to hearing more.

I'm spoiled with my 403 and 455's, I guess, because I get *no* satisfaction
from my rebuilt w/Edelbrock Performer Cam 2-bbl single-exhaust 360 in the
Grand Wagoneer... :(

>BTW Wagoneers with 327 V8s use AMC (*not* Ch*vy) 327s and I believe the 
>automatics were Borg-Warner units.

The early "Tornado" OHC 230ci I-6 used that BW tranny; the Rambler 327's
used a TH400.
________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	    MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
http://studentweb.providence.edu/~rbarry/wheels/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 16:01:09 -0500 (EST)
From: throckmail@webtv.net (mark sopp)
Subject: Re: clock conversion...........

gary herbert www,tachman.com for quartz update...from JWO

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 16:03:29 EST
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Sport Steering Wheels.

In a message dated 2/7/99 1:40:47 AM Eastern Standard Time, Dr-Olds@webtv.net
writes:

<< I don't have the bracket
 that holds the button to the wheel, but I have seen it in one of the
 resto >>
These are still available from your friendly GM Dealer  part#  9751046 

Everett  OCA# 1961    1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 16:00:55 -0500
From: dgerow@student.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
Subject: Fiberglass

Hello all,

This is more of a general automotive question than "Olds-specific."  I
have some fiberglass body pieces that are slightly cracked and chipped.
Is there such a thing as "re-glassing".  If so, where can I have
something like this done?  I need to know because if not, then the whole
piece is ruined and I will need to purchase a new one, at a ridiculous
cost.  TIA.
As always,  reply privately.

Dan Gerow

'69 4-4-2
'71 Cutlass Supreme
'72 GP

- --
- ---------------------------------
Daniel R. Gerow
dgerow@stonehill.edu
http://www.stonehill.edu/~dgerow
- ---------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 16:25:32 -0500
From: "Bill Reilly" <wjreilly@erols.com>
Subject: Some Q's on a 307 to 455 swap

Hey guys and girls,

I really need to get a garage so I can work on my cars in any weather
condition.  I was making some progress on my '85 Cutlass project today,
until it started snowing!  Weird weather lately.  Anyway it's coming along
slowly, it actually has wheels on it again and is off the jack stands and I
put the W-30 hood on it also.  That still needs adjustment, but it looks
real sharp even if it's still gray gelcoat.

Anyway, I have a few questions:

1.  The Negative battery cable had a ground wire to the head on my 307.  The
current 455 has no provision to attach a ground to it at the same point.
Any suggestions where to bolt that sucker down?  Would it be a good idea to
attach it to the exhaust manifold or would that get to hot for it?

2.  The starter.  The original 307 starter has only two posts on it, one for
the battery cable and one other one, marked with an "S".  The starter  I
picked up for a '72 Cutlass with 455 has three posts on it, battery, the
same "S" and another marked with an "R".  What's that one for?  Do I need to
go get a different starter to match more closely to what I already had?

3.  Are there any differences in linkages, shifter cables, or what ever
between the 200c and 200-4R?

Thanks again.

Bill Reilly
mailto: wjreilly@erols.com
Web Page: (Not yet)

My Garage:
'83 Cutlass Ciera
'84 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 16:31:27 -0500
From: "Robert Collins" <collins@peterboro.net>
Subject: Re: '65 to '64 Parts Interchange

List

I would like to know what body parts will interchange between those years.
I do realize that the side trim mounting holes will be different, but that
is easy to overcome.  Any thing else?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 16:18:40 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Fw: Winternatls. Missed post

Sorry to use list for this, can't get thru to Gary. Kicked it back.
- ----------
> From: Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net>
> To: gjcouse@framcomm.com
> Subject: Re: Winternatls.
> Date: Sunday, February 07, 1999 4:13 PM
> 
> Gary;
> Did you see the interview with Bernstein, he mentioned the parking lot
> thing at AB.
> Lou
> 
> ----------
> > From: Gary Couse <gjcouse@francomm.com>
> > To: lbiggs@intertek.net
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 16:22:05 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Winternationals

All;
On at 8:30 CST, ESPN 2, an Olds qualified in fifth for Pro Stock.
Master Lou
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 18:25:14 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: windown crank springs .....

On Sun, 7 Feb 1999, Patton wrote:
>         Did all 64-72 GM cars have window crank
> tension springs installed between the door panels
> and the cranks ???????   just the upper lines  ????

I've never seen these on A-bodies. Just the C-clip to hold the crank to
the shaft, and the plastic washer.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 18:26:21 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: clock conversion...........

On Sun, 7 Feb 1999, Patton wrote:
> Who do we use for conversion to quartz
> clocks for our cars ?????????

I used APT speedometer service in Minneapolis (I think) for my Buick. They
did a nice job and were very quick.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 17:44:37 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: windown crank springs .....

The 69, 71 and 72 A bodies had them I know for sure.  At least all of
mine did.

Mike Rothe

> >         Did all 64-72 GM cars have window crank
> > tension springs installed between the door panels
> > and the cranks ???????   just the upper lines  ????
> 
> I've never seen these on A-bodies. Just the C-clip to hold the crank to
> the shaft, and the plastic washer.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 16:41:01 -0600
From: Shang <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: trans fluid change

Brian,

	You should expect 4-5 quarts to refill after your fluid change. After
you have replaced the filter and gasket and are ready to refill, add 3
quarts, then start the motor and add accordingly. The level must be
checked with the engine idling in Park. 

	The fluid you need is Dexron III. Type F fluid will produce firmer
shifts in new or rebuilt transmissions that are completely dry, but
these two fluids ARE NOT compatible. DO NOT mix type F with the Dexron
III. 

	If your transmission is getting lazy, changing fluids will not help
this situation at all, in fact it may worsen the symptoms. You need to
be thinking about a tranny rebuild in the somewhat near future.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

Brian Shankle wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> I want to change the trans fluid and filter in my 86 CSB.  I have the
> standard three speed non overdrive automatic transmission of the 200
> variety.  I know some of the fluid is trapped in the torque converter,
> so how much should I expect to get out/put back in the car so as to
> avoid overfilling it?  Also, it seems to be getting a little sleepy
> going into reverse (engages fine but takes a little longer than it
> should somtimes) and seems to have the beginnings of a slip sometimes
> from a stop light.  Otherwise it shifts fine.  I have been told that if
> I were to fill it with the regular fluid (type A?) but keep it one quart
> low and put one quart of type F fluid that it would help with these
> sorts of things....Any thoughts or recommendations on this will be
> greatly appreciated.
> Brian.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 16:43:01 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Fw: Winternationals

Wrong, update, Olds fourth and sixth, all 6.9s
Lou

- ----------
> From: Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net>
> To: Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Winternationals
> Date: Sunday, February 07, 1999 4:22 PM
> 
> All;
> On at 8:30 CST, ESPN 2, an Olds qualified in fifth for Pro Stock.
> Master Lou
> lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 18:50:17 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: windown crank springs .....

On Sun, 7 Feb 1999, Mike Rothe. wrote:
> The 69, 71 and 72 A bodies had them I know for sure.  At least all of
> mine did.

Mike, you're talking about a tapered spiral spring? I can tell you that my
'64 didn't have them, my '68 doesn't either (and it is a very original car
so there is no way they were lost along the way) and the '72 we parted out
last year didn't have them either.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 15:04:00 -0800 (PST)
From: John Pajak <jspajak@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: window crank springs .....

"Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net> wrote:
The 69, 71 and 72 A bodies had them I know for sure.  At least all of
mine did.


**********
     Same here. It is common to find them missing, especially on the
driver's side. Once someone takes the panel off, they tend to omit the
spring upon reassembly. The purpose of the spring is to push the panel
out slightly so there is no gap between the base of the window crank
and the panel. Makes it harder to get the window crank off though,
since one has to 'push' the panel in slightly and then wiggle the
special clip removal tool in between.



==
"2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"

John Pajak
Lexington Park, Maryland

Check out our cars, trucks and a whole lot more at
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 18:06:52 -0500
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: windown crank springs .....

>         Did all 64-72 GM cars have window crank
> tension springs installed between the door panels
> and the cranks ???????   just the upper lines  ????

None of my '72's have them. I don't remember any of my '70's or '71's having
them either.......but that's been 15+ years ago.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 07 Feb 1999 18:02:20 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: windown crank springs .....

> Mike, you're talking about a tapered spiral spring? 

Yep, That's what I'm talking about.  The one that drops out as soon as
you pull the lower part of the door panel loose, and is sometimes a pain
to get back in.  Maybe it was a plant to plant thing, I don't know.  I
personally don't see the need for them myself.  But I had them in all of
the A-bodies I've owned.  I can't see why someone would PUT them in
there except the factory.  Weird huh?

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 7 Feb 1999 17:32:39 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: windown crank springs .....

>> Mike, you're talking about a tapered spiral spring? 
>
>Yep, That's what I'm talking about.  The one that drops out as soon as
>you pull the lower part of the door panel loose, and is sometimes a pain
>to get back in.  Maybe it was a plant to plant thing, I don't know.  I
>personally don't see the need for them myself.  But I had them in all of
>the A-bodies I've owned.  I can't see why someone would PUT them in
>there except the factory.  Weird huh?
>
>Mike Rothe

FWIW, My 72 and my 68 both had em when I got the cars.  
I thought I remembered something about for service when
the car was new, lubing the window mechanisms.  Is it
possible that the dealer left these springs out when servicing
the car?

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1759
*********************************

