Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1707


oldsmobile-digest      Thursday, January 7 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1707



nationals info. please
1970 442 for sale; $2500
NASCAR   [was: Re: READ ME: H**p the Olds Cause! ]
Dual exhaust (cats) - the real deal [long]
test
Re: Shifter problem
Re: dick miller...
bolt pattern
Re: Cleaning Tanks
Changed battery on '90 Cutlass Supreme, now stalling
Re: Dick Miller
detonation problem
Re: nationals info. please
Re: dick miller responds!
Re: Cold idle problems
suspension upgrade/rebuild advice needed
Re: dick miller responds!
Re: READ ME: Help the Olds Cause! send to: dmracing1@aol.com
Re: 69 hood differences
Re: suspension upgrade/rebuild advice needed
Re: [Thomas Martin, Local Machine Shop]
Re: dick miller responds!
Re: dick miller responds!
Exhaust questions
Re: Oil Pressure (Was=RE:Motor Break In)
Re: dick miller responds!
Re: suspension upgrade/rebuild advice needed
64 body mounts
Mileage no good on '75 Cutlass
Re: Oil Pressure (Was=RE:Motor Break In)
That dropped shock (1965 rear end)
Re: Mondello flexplate = altered inertia properties?
Re: Exhaust questions
Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)
Don Sowers' age (wasRe: dick miller responds!)
Re: exploding batteries
Re: Exploding Batteries!
DM and Joe
72 442 Dash Ground Strap
Re: That dropped shock (1965 rear end)
windshield/conv. top seal leaking
Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)
RE: windshield/conv. top seal leaking
Re: Dick Miller/response to my e-mail
Re: Exhaust questions
Re: [Re: [Thomas Martin, Local Machine Shop]]

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 10:18:23 EST
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: nationals info. please

does anyone have the location of the nats for this year?  i know there going
to be held in dallas, but was wondering where at in dallas?  also , how will
the judging be held? will we have to be there all four days with our cars?
tia.   steven, w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 10:45:17 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: 1970 442 for sale; $2500

I know nothing about it. Contact them directly.



>70 OLDSMOBILE 442, 455 rebuilt, 30000 miles, reverse shift kit,
>header, sun tachometer, many new parts, extra body parts, runs great,
>body needs restore, $2500 or best offer, (314)838-4529 FLORISSANT 1/29
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 10:51:04 -0500
From: "Arnold, W D" <w.d.arnold@lmco.com>
Subject: NASCAR   [was: Re: READ ME: H**p the Olds Cause! ]

>Larry Pegg wrote:
>One of the best eng men I know is a real D#$K but he is a highly paid
nascar
>crew chief

Are you talking about Robin Pemberton here? (just kidding)  
I *know* several of them and to speak on their behalf, *most* are some
really great guys !!  Believe or not, Todd Parrot is THE easiest to get
along with and talk too. AND he is responsible for a consistent top 5 team. 
Robert Yates knows alot about an Olds(not like DM, JM, or some of us) and
has  an incredible understanding of heads.  I wonder if he ever raced Olds
in the past.

My vote for the GM NASCAR stepchild is, of course, Olds but, I'll keep
pulling for the Pontiac (Pontiac = Passed On Nascar Track In All Corners) 
until the triumphant return of Olds. 


Donny Arnold
w.d.arnold@lmco.com

72  Olds 442  
41 Chevy 
63 Chevy Truck


 
 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 10:53:06 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Dual exhaust (cats) - the real deal [long]

Sorry gang, had no idea attached file dint make it.
heres the nauseating truth:

[[Question: can I install dual cats on a 1965 car?]]

From:	ALBRINK.STEVE@epamail.epa.gov (STEVE ALBRINK)
To:	KarlAune@aol.com

            The tampering prohibition applies to vehicles certified to meet
federal emissions standards.  Since light duty standards don't apply until
1968, you can do anything you want.  There are restrictions on installing dual
exhaust and
catalysts on newer vehicles though.  The information below should answer your
questions.  If not feel free to call me at (202) 564-8997.

	The federal tampering prohibition is contained in section 203(a)(3) of 
the
Clean Air Act (Act), 42 U.S.C. 7522(a)(3).  Section 203(a)(3)(A) of the Act
prohibits any person from removing or rendering inoperative any device or
element of design installed on or in any motor vehicle in compliance with
regulations under Title II of the Act (i.e., regulations requiring
certification that vehicles meet federal emissions standards).  The maximum
civil penalty for a violation of this section by a manufacturer or dealer is
$25,000; for any other person, $2,500.

	Section 203(a)(3)(B) of the Act prohibits any person from 
manufacturing or
selling, or offering to sell, or installing, any part or component intended
for use with, or as part of, any motor vehicle or motor vehicle engine where a
principal effect of the part or component is to bypass, defeat, or render
inoperative any device or element of design installed on or in a motor vehicle
or motor vehicle engine, and where the person knows or should know that such
part or component is being offered for sale or is being installed for such
use.  The maximum civil penalty for a
violation of this section is $2,500.

	Accordingly, any change from the original certified configuration of a
vehicle, or the manufacture or sale of nonoriginal equipment aftermarket parts
or systems could be considered a violation of section 203(a)(3) of the Act.
The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) has established an enforcement
policy, Mobile Source Enforcement Memorandum No. 1A (Memorandum 1A), to
provide guidance to the public to reduce the uncertainty regardingpotential
liability under section 203(a)(3) of the Act for using or selling aftermarket
parts or systems, or making adjustments or alterations to parts or system
parameters.  A copy of Memorandum 1A is attached or can be obtained from our
EPA's Office of Mobile Sources web site. 

	Basically, Memorandum 1A states that we will not consider any 
modification to
a certified emissions control configuration to be a violation of the tampering
prohibition if there is a reasonable basis for knowing that emissions are not
adversely affected.  In many cases, durability aging and emission testing
according to the Federal Test Procedure would be necessary to make this
determination.

	As written Memorandum 1A is directed only to dealers and vehicle and 
engine
manufacturers.  However, in 1977 and again in 1990, section 203(a)(3) was
amended and the tampering prohibition now extends to "any person."
Consequently, the policy enunciated in Memorandum 1A has been extended to
apply to any person.

	Federal law prohibits any person from removing or rendering 
inoperative any
device or element of design installed on or in any motor vehicle or motor
vehicle engine originally certified to meet federal emissions standards.
Exhaust back pressure and the exhaust system configuration are elements of
design of the emission control systems as certified by the vehicle
manufacturers.  Therefore, any changes to those systems could be considered
violations of federal law.

            Since installing catalytic converters on vehicles which did not
originally have any would reasonably be expected to decrease emissions, we
would not generally consider it a violation to install one or two or more
converters.

	On the other hand, back pressure can affect emissions, and a decrease 
in back
pressure would normally be expected to increase tail-pipe emissions,
particularly oxides of nitrogen and hydrocarbons.  The addition of a second
catalytic converter as part of a dual exhaust system would not necessarily
reduce the exhaust emissions output of a vehicle which originally came with
one.  In fact, reducing the flow to each converter of a dual system could
actually extend the time necessary for the converter to light-off (warm up and
start operating) thereby causing much higher cold start emissions.  Cold start
operation is the period during operation when the highest emissions normally
occur.

	As mentioned before, federal law prohibits any person from removing or
rendering inoperative any device or element of design installed on or in any
motor vehicle or motor vehicle engine originally certified to meet federal
emissions standards and exhaust back pressure and the exhaust system
configuration are elements of design of the emission control systems as
certified by the vehicle manufacturers.  Therefore, any changes to those
systems could be considered violations of federal law.

I hope this answers your questions, if not let me know.

[[ Thanks, and another Q: if car WAS subject to emissions, and dual cats
further reduced emissions, and could be demonstrably proved so. Would that
change the situation?]]


Under Memorandum 1A, if you could prove that the emissions are less, then we
would not consider it tampering and would not enforce it.  You may still have
problems getting through a State I/M program though because they often
require you to have the system the way it came from the factory.  Often those
programs are less flexible because of the problems in dealing with individuals
motorists where they have to evaluate each vehicle and treat everybody the
same, and then give a pass or fail.  On the other hand our attorney's would
just choose not to prosecute and base it on Memo 1A which is basically an
enforcement policy.

The thing about aftermarket converters is that they are generally not as good
as the OEM converters because their performance and durability requirements
are much less.  That is why they cost so much less.  That is also why we put
restrictions on when they can be installed on vehicles (after their warranty
period runs out).  It's probably a good bet that duals with 2 aftermarket
converters won't be cleaner than a single system with an OEM converter nor
will they meet federal emissions standards for the useful life.  We've had
many exhaust manufacturers and an
association which represented muffler shops start down that road only to find
that emissions go up unless you use catalysts that are better than the current
aftermarket ones and choke off the flow to increase back pressure.  When
you do that, the costs go up considerably and obviously the increased back
pressure isn't what you wanted in the first place.  I guess they decided that
it just wasn't worth it.  That's probably why many of the OEM dual exhaust
systems use more than just 2 catalysts or larger ones because they need more
catalyst  material to clean up the exhaust and meet federal standards.

I know how frustrating it can be to find information from our web page because
I've been frustrated myself trying to retrieve it.  Key words in the "search"
mechanism don't seem to work well for some strange reason.

Hope this is helpful.  

[[Good luck!!]]

{{SOM}}

{{&KA}}

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 10:09:06 -0600
From: steven@purplemonkey.com (Steven Saraceno)
Subject: test

test does this work?





-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 11:24:28 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Shifter problem

My aftermarket shifter is not ratcheting correctly in this cold weather.
It's new and the factory grease is nearly solid which won't allow the pin to
be pulled into the detent. The grease holds it up. I suggest hitting it with
WD-40 to thin out the grease a little. As for a column shifter, I would
inspect the bushings in the linkage under the hood, then under the car. You
might fins une missing and the metal to metal contact has caused wear that
makes it hard to shift. That's the first thing I would looks for.

- -----Original Message-----
>
>
>         With the temperature that cold, the lubricant could be freezing.
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 11:39:03 -0400
From: Jonathan Parke <jonparke@together.net>
Subject: Re: dick miller...

I'm finding it hard to believe the basic course of this thread of dumping
on Dick Miller's response to Ken's <olds442@en.com> question.

I've been working with Dick on my 425 EFI project since last June.  We've
had lots of conversations.  I've called him a bunch and e-mailed him now
and then.

I think this issue with Dick needs to be put in perspective.

Bigger companies have Tech folks who's only job is to answer questions.
Most smaller companies don't.

Dick is a small shop.  He gets a lot of phone calls in a day and I mean A
LOT (I know because Dick and I have talked about this).  Some are for
ordering parts, some are about building motors and other shop work etc.,
but the majority of the calls are questions about what parts to use, how to
do something etc.

Questions are fine and they are reasonable to ask (I've certainly done my
share), but they are time consuming (especially when they come one after
another) and for the most part are coming from people who are just looking
for information, shopping for prices or maybe just dreaming of building a
killer 455.  That's okay too, but think of the consequences for the person
taking the call.  If you talk 10-20 minutes think how that could add up
with 5-20 calls a day.

Dick has to balance taking calls with getting shop work done on projects
that often have an anxious customer on the other end who wants it done
ASAP.  On top of all that there is the bookkeeping, ordering and all the
other important details of keeping track of a small business.  12 hour days
are not uncommon for Dick.

Yes I've experienced Dick as being a little testy or short answered.  But I
can relate.  When I'm in the middle of some critical part of a process that
needs all my concentartion I would find it hard to be interrupted a half
dozen times.

Also in my job (I work as an off-campus teacher/counselor with troubled
high school kids) I get all sorts of calls from parents, school teachers
and administration.  Sometimes those calls come when my energy level is
sucking wind or I've just gotten back from a really frustrating meeting.
Or maybe I'm just having a hard day.  Whatever...  I'm human and sometimes
I find it hard to handle every phone call with consummate grace, let alone
concentration.

As for e-mail with Dick.  If I write a page he might give me sentence or
two back.  He's not verbose I'll grant you that.  But think of the volume
of e-mail he probably gets.  Think of sitting down at the end of long hard
day and replying to somebody about a part you didn't sell and might not be
familiar with etc.

If I were Ken I'd be disappointed about Dick's terse reply too.  But that
doesn't mean Dick is a bad person, a #@%# head or any other name I've seen
mentioned.

I also don't think that I'd approach the question the way Ken did.

Let me explain.  I've made a lot of calls regarding the customization
project of my '72 Cutlass.  I ask a lot of questions.  I have an inquiring
mind and want to know "why".  I'm not satisfied with "Been there, done that
so do it this way and don't bug me." So I make it known up front that I'm
not looking for something for nothing.  I say something like, "I've got
some questions is this a good time to talk or should I call back later?" I
follow that up with something like, "If this starts to get complicated or
time consuming I'd be happy to pay for your consulting time." In variably
the reply is something like, "Don't worry about it I get calls all the
time." There have been occasions where I've either paid and sent something
(a small box of really good chocolate for instance).  Sometimes I've done
this even though the other person has said "No problem." The point is most
people respond well if they feel you understand and respect their
circumstances.  And I'm sure you'd all agree that sometimes a few $$$ for
information is lot cheaper than fixing a mistake you've made.

To me it's about keeping a balance.  Like this Olds List.  I ask questions
and I try to respond to others when I have something to offer.  I've made
replies, scanned stuff and e-mailed JPEGs as well as snail-mailed
photocopies etc.  I don't keep track of whether I've given more than I've
gotten.  That's not the point.

I'm sure Dick Miller shares that perspective too.  He's not going to get
rich being a small time Olds shop.  A lot of his time is given freely.  But
he's human.  Just like the rest of us... good days & bad days.

So I in my opinion this thread about Dick has been sounding a little
self-righteous and out of perspective.

I have no opinion whether Dick handled the incident with Ken "correctly" as
I've only heard Ken's side.

I'm NOT asking you to love the guy.

I'm just asking the List to keep things in perspective and to base your
opinions of Dick on your own experience.

jp

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 10:44:13 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: bolt pattern

I think your close on the bolt pattern. The diameter is a circle, and
for a five bolt pattern, it is slightly greater than measuring across
from one hole or bolt to another. I've found you need to add about 1/4",
so your patterns would be 4 3/4" and 5".

These are the standard Olds (and GM) full size and intermediate
patterns. The patterns were basically 4 3/4" for intermediates and 5"
for full size. But in '77 the full sizers started using the 4 3/4"
pattern, unless the car came with a 403 or tow package, or maybe was a
98. There are differences out there, so measure to be sure. Make a go,
no-go guage for quick rooting through piles of rims. I have a socket
extension that is a perfect go, no-go guage for this.

- ----------
Well, you have the smaller GM patter and the bigger.  For example, a
1980s
Cutlass has the smaller bolt pattern and a early 98 Regency has the
bigger
bolt patter.  I thought that 4" 1/2 was the smaller and 4" 3/4 the
bigger
bolt pattern.  My '81 98 has the big pattern and my '81 Delta the small
patter.  However, when I swapped out the 307 I also took the stock 2.41
posi
out and put a 3.23 posi out of a late '70s Buick with the bigger bolt
patter.  Hence, my front has the smaller bolt and my rear the bigger
bolt
patter.

- --
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 10:50:38 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: Cleaning Tanks

What's the best ways/products to clean the puke tank, and wiper/washer
tanks. Anyone try using chlorine bleach diluted? Would like to find a
process to remove stains and bring back to the original white plastic
surface. No, haven't tried anything yet. Just wondering if anyone has
tackled this matter and to what success.
- ----------
Here's something Karl posted a while back. Sounds like replacement is
about the only option.

OK. 1986 containers are likely to be polyethylene. Containers from the
1960s
are of a more primitive plastic resin.

Since the fluid containers would not contain food, there is no "barrier"
layer
to prevent product from permeating the plastic and vice versa. Thus your
windshield wiper fluid reservoir could accuire a bluish tint where it
was in
contact with the fluid. It is from fluid absorbed into the polyethylene.

Now, as for "whitening." I need you to tell me whether these containers
were
white when they were new, *or* whether they were a semi-transparent very
light
tan.

You see, white bottles are made by adding white color concentrate to the
raw
polyetnylene "resins." Sometimes "natural" containers are made without
colorant. This results in a semi-transparent bottle.

What I am getting at is that either way, it may not be possible to make
them
whiter (short of dying them, but that would be expensive and
impractical). It
would be extremely difficult to remove fluid that soaked into a bottle,
and
"natural" bottles were never white to begin with.

Karl Aune

- --
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 10:53:17 -0600
From: Pete Klager <pete.klager@medtronic.com>
Subject: Changed battery on '90 Cutlass Supreme, now stalling

Hello,
I just replaced the battery on my '90 Cutlass Supreme.  Now
the engine idles poorly and often stalls at lights.  The dealer
says the idle air control "lost its memory" and needs to be
reprogrammed.  They say I will need to bring the car in so
they can hook it up to their equipment and reprogram the idle
air control.  They said the IAC might come back on it own
after 20 - 25 drive cycles, but they didn't sound too confident
about that.

Their explanation sounds reasonable to me - up to a point.
It seems fishy to me that I would have to take the car to the
dealer for reprogramming every time the battery is
disconnected.  Comments on this?  Is there anything I can do
to help the IAC re-learn its settings?

Thanks,
Pete Klager
'90 Cutlass Supreme
'75 Porsche 914
'70 GMC 3/4 ton PU

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 11:58:10 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Dick Miller

The internet also has the power to make vendors think before giving
flippant, obnoxious responses. I think that's a good thing. If DMR gets a
mailbox full of negative e-mails over an incident such as this, one of two
thing could happen. Either he'll become more curteous (knowing that the
internet will cause his statements to be very LOUD), or he will become
bitter and be even more rude. For most vendors, since their business is
their livelihood and their customers put food on their table, they will do
everything possible to keep from alienating their customer base. The
exception is if you feel that your product/services are so rare and needed
that you can treat people like dirt and they'll keep coming back.
IMHO we should at least let him know that hundreds of customer/potential
customers are able to hear what he says, negative or positive.

Whatever happened to, "the customer is always right!" ? Every phone call and
every e-mail is a potential customer.

My .02

- -----Original Message-----

>Hey, gang, hold up here.
>
>I think we'd be doing Dick and ourselves a big disservice if we immediately
>jump on this flamer bandwagon.  First, _everybody_ has a bad day every so
>often.  Dick has been extremely helpful to many list members.  It would be
>a shame to ignore all that and rag on him for a single email reponse.  Note
>that this is in contrast to Joe M, who _does_ have a history of behavior
>that is less than desireable.   This whole episode really scares me when it
>comes to important issues - the power of the internet and media to rile
>people up for a miniscule thing unfortunately says a lot for the general
>public.  The bottom line is that we should never form an opinion like this
>based on a single data point.
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 12:06:46 EST
From: EDZX6@aol.com
Subject: detonation problem

I have a detonation problem on my 72 Cutlass. First let me give you the
ingredients involved, HEI w/ no vacuum adv canister and centrifugal adv locked
out (by method of welding), MSD 6AL ignition, MSD programmable timing
computer. As per the FAQ's I've set initial timing at 18 (recommended 15-18)
total timing at 36 (recommended 32-36) and full advance at 1800 RPM
(recommended about 1500 RPM for std tranny). To my understanding detonation at
WOT is caused by amount of total timing and detonation at part throtle is
caused by amount of vacuum advance. My detonation is happenig at part throtle
(cruise) and goes away as soon as I either let the throtle go or lightly press
on it. I have no detonation at WOT and I'm not using a vaccum advance so how
can I controll part throtle detonation? Any inputs would be appreciated and
please feel free to correct me on any incorrect information. One last note of
information, the HEI dist. was picked up at a local junk yard but was working
fine previously on the same vehicle and I'm using the magnetic pickup to
trigger it.

Eddie      72 Cutlass conv 4spd

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 12:10:43 EST
From: Lou0118@aol.com
Subject: Re: nationals info. please

In a message dated 99-01-07 10:29:03 EST, you write:

<< does anyone have the location of the nats for this year?  i know there
going
 to be held in dallas, but was wondering where at in dallas?  also , how will
 the judging be held? will we have to be there all four days with our cars?
 tia.   steven, w30442cs@aol.com
  >>

All the info you need is at the following website

http://www.flash.net/~texas442/

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 12:15:55 EST
From: Sx455@aol.com
Subject: Re: dick miller responds!

ive talked to mr miller severals times over the phone and via e-mail. he has
always been very curtiuos and helpful even though i have never bought anything
from him! theres obviously more to this story ...................   on the
other hand ive dealt with the other proclaimed dr. olds,he should trade first
names with mr.miller!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! rick sx455    i deal locally(va.) with
danny lattimore ,he is the real dr. olds ................he is the man behind
the worlds fastest olds stocker and he has a wall full of nhra records set
with oldmobiles !! 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 11:24:07 -0600
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: Cold idle problems

Sounds like one thing causing this is that the choke is set too lean or
not working correctly. Is this an electric choke? If not, it's simple to
adjust.

Remove air cleaner, locate choke on right side of engine. Locate and
note current setting (light line on choke wheel vs position on choke
housing). Loosen the three little screws a bit, rotate wheel an 1/8",
tighten three screws. Test. Readjust until it starts and doesn't die.
This will take several days or cool downs.

The best bet is to find the recommended setting for your vehicle. Maybe
it's on the emissions sticker - usually located on the radiator shroud
shelf. It will also be in the '82 chassis manual. Outside of that, you
could just try 1 notch rich. Make sure you know what a rich or lean
setting is by looking at the choke housing. A too rich setting will show
up when the weather gets warm and the engine hesitates when
accelerating, just after the engine begins to warm up (1-2 minutes after
starting). Just back it off a 1/2 notch or so.

You wrote:
- ----------
I am new to car repairs.  I am working on my 82 Olds Delta 88 to fix
the cold running problems - more obvious in the winter.  The car over
all is running great.   It has a V8 5 liter engine, 4 barrel carb.
It starts in the morning and stops right away.  After giving gas it
starts and stops again.  After I do this several times and pressing
gas pedal a lot it finally stays on.  Once the engine is hot, there is
no problem.
- --
David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 11:21:47 -0600
From: "Darrin Johnson" <xdarrinj@ti.com>
Subject: suspension upgrade/rebuild advice needed

I am in the process of rebuilding/upgrading the suspension on my 72 Cutlass
Convertible.  I am looking for a firm (but not harsh) ride with less body
roll.  Would a 1 1/4 inch front swaybar with a 1 inch rear bar be overkill?
I will probably have the stock spec springs and KYB Gas Shocks.

I am also undecided about polygraphite vs rubber bushings.  I am leaning
towards using the stock rubber bushings because of the recommendation in
Supercars Unlimited catalog.  Any comments?

Darrin Johnson
djohnsn@ibm.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 12:25:07 EST
From: Sx455@aol.com
Subject: Re: dick miller responds!

i cant believe you guys.................worst than a bunch of
wolves...........jump on the bandwagon go ahead and crucify the guy with out
hearing HIS side of the story...........i bet all you guys loved senator
mccarthy didnt ya?   i can guarantee theres more to the
story!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! rick sx455

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 11:50:45 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: READ ME: Help the Olds Cause! send to: dmracing1@aol.com

Larry Pegg said:


>...although the man is not the best conversationalist he is RIGHT ask the
>manufacturer.  Every cam has the potential to have its own spec.  Even the
>sbc has several different specs.  To flood the mans business with mail is
>uncalled for.
>

Because of statements like:
                                                        
>> Let's go get 'em!
>>
>>  Scott

Dick Miller has always been very helpful to me. Ironically, I called a cam 
manufacturer to ask some questions about pushrod length to use with their 
cam. Their response was , "Ask Dick Miller," and they gave me his phone 
number! He did answer my questions, as he always has ---- though I prolly 
haven' asked more than 4  or 5 of him.

Try carrying your parts into most local shops & ask the guys there how to 
install them.

my .02

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 12:49:44 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: 69 hood differences

Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:
> 
> Is there any differencebetween a 69 Cutlass S and 442 hood.  Wayne
> Schwartz
> _________
> 
> No, Cutlass S/442 ....... and Supremes used the flat hood that simply had 
punched
> vents at the base of the windshield.  Note that if an F-85 was equipped
> with the W-31 package, the S/442 hood was substituted.

Joe, how did I know you would know and answer this one?  ROTFLMAO.......

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 12:48:03 -0500
From: "Mark Cornea (R)" <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: Re: suspension upgrade/rebuild advice needed

Darrin Johnson wrote:
> 
> I am in the process of rebuilding/upgrading the suspension on my 72 Cutlass
> Convertible.  I am looking for a firm (but not harsh) ride with less body
> roll.  Would a 1 1/4 inch front swaybar with a 1 inch rear bar be overkill?
> I will probably have the stock spec springs and KYB Gas Shocks.
> 
> I am also undecided about polygraphite vs rubber bushings.  I am leaning
> towards using the stock rubber bushings because of the recommendation in
> Supercars Unlimited catalog.  Any comments?
> 
> Darrin Johnson
> djohnsn@ibm.net

	Darrin,

	You WILL get a firm ride and NO body roll. I have a 1-1/2 front and
1-3/8 rear (from HO racing in '83) on my '70 W30. I also have the
polygraphite bushings with the Hotch's (sp)  rear control arms.  It's
great!

         ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
               Mark Cornea (Dr. Decal)  OCA# 4903
                             1970 W30 (red)

                      mailto:drdecal@wwnet.net
                      mailto:mcornea@ford.com

                    Visit http://www.drdecal.com
        ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 11:42:49 -0600
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: Re: [Thomas Martin, Local Machine Shop]

RSTOMN wrote:
> 
> oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:
> Before I had problems with my 'puter and then went on vacation, Thomas
> Martin asked me for the address and Phone number of the Machine Shop
> that  I was going to bring my crank to.  This is it,
> 
>         General Engine & Machine Incorporated
>         9112 Terminal Ave
>         Skokie, IL 60077-1514
>         (847) 966-7466
> 
> Ask for Frank.
> 
> I'll be bringing in my crank later this month or eaarly next.
> 
> Also, Dick Miller and Mondello sell the exact same part number for a
> crank bearing, but their installation instructions are different.  Joe
> has you bore the crank .001" less than the bearing diameter for a press
> fit while Dave has you overbore it by .001" and machine the crank for a
> snap ring that he encloses with the bearing.  My trusty Olds shop manual
> shows the '65 cranks being a press fit.  I believe I'll go the Mondello
> route of this one.  Naturally the price is still better from Dick Miller
> though.
> 
> Good to be back and many thanks to Greg B. for taking care of my list
> troubles(and the list in general).
> 
> Paul Brillhart
> 
> >Is that the same Frank from the old Touhy Automotive?
> in Skokie?
> 
> RESTOMAN
> 
> ____________________________________________________________________
> More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at
>  http://home.netscape.com/netcenter/mail
  


  One:  I don't know if it is the same Frank.

  Two:  I mistakenly listed Dick Miller instead of Dave Smith ho I
bought the bearing from.


  Later.


  Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 12:51:13 -0500
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: dick miller responds!

Oh please. McCarthy? Wolves? Crucify? It appears as if DM was discurteous,
as a vendor, that's unacceptable.

Let's see:

Wolves: do we want to eat him? YUCK! no way!

Crucify: Dick Miller on a cross? Not since Life of Brian has there been a
more sacreligious idea. (oops, forgot about "The Last Temptation of
Christ" - truly sacreligeous.)

McCarthy?  (imagine Boston accent) "DICK MILLER, are you now, or have you
ever been a member of the communist party?" ROTFLMAO! I think he should sign
a loyalty oath to Oldsmobiles, however.

Jump on the Bandwagon? Can I play tuba or drums, please, please, please . .
.

get real

By the way, if you hit your shift button when you hit "i" it will be "I
can't believe you guys . . ."

- -----Original Message-----
>
>i cant believe you guys.................worst than a bunch of
>wolves...........jump on the bandwagon go ahead and crucify the guy with
out
>hearing HIS side of the story...........i bet all you guys loved senator
>mccarthy didnt ya?   i can guarantee theres more to the
>story!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! rick sx455
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 12:59:40 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: dick miller responds!

Sx455@aol.com wrote:
> 
> i cant believe you guys

Snipping a bit here

>......i bet all you guys loved senator
> mccarthy didnt ya?   i can guarantee theres more to the
> story!!

Senator who?  Finally, somebody on this list older than me!!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 13:06:50 EST
From: Jon442@aol.com
Subject: Exhaust questions

Hey, all

After much research, and some great input from some list members, I decided to
go with 2 1/2" head pipes on my '72 Cutlass, Dynomax mufflers, and 2 1/4"
tailpipes. But, Walker does not make these (at least that my local parts store
could find). 

Does anyone know where I can get these pre-bent, or am I going to have to go
to the muffler shop and have them fabricated?

Thanks,

Jon

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 11:05:57 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure (Was=RE:Motor Break In)

>Just a quick question here, what kind of oil pressure to others have
>in their Oldsies? My engine (350 Rocket) has about 13,000 on it since
>rebuild. I run CAM 2 15W 40 in the summer time. I have oil pressures
>that follow. Cold-Anywhere from about 60 to 75 PSI (Depends on RPM
>range) Warm Idle-About 40-50 PSI. Warm Driving-About 45-60 (Depending
>on speed and such) I thought that maybe it was just my gauge that was
>off but I hooked in another gauge and that read the same reading. I
>know that this is pretty high. I have had a tough time getting the
>thing to not leak, but it doesn't leak enough to where I have to add
>any oil before an oil change. As far as I know, the oil pump is the
>stock pump. (It came in the box that the disassembled engine was in)

I was getting between 5 and 10 PSI less then you with 10-W30.  It is still
high, it is just that when it warms up and I am driving it now sits around
25-30 in drive, warm.  Igor.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 13:07:37 EST
From: Sx455@aol.com
Subject: Re: dick miller responds!

WHATEVER! I think everyone gets the idea  sx455

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 12:09:47 -0600
From: "Greg" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: suspension upgrade/rebuild advice needed

Here's what's in my '71 cutlass convertible:  H-O racing's 1 3/8" front and
rear sway bars and stiff big block springs (they are now out of business).
I had their boxed lower control arms, but the bushings ripped out of the
ends of them (I have a stiff shift-kit).  I replaced them with a full
Hotchkis setup with braces ($525 plus $200+ labor).  The front end is a full
PST poly bushing setup.  Just put KYB shocks on the front and they are a
HUGE improvement over the $15 red rider gas shocks.  I still have Monroe
load-leveler shocks in the rear, soon to be replaced by KYB.

I don't think you can really go too big on sway bars.  I have zero body
roll, but the 245/60R14 tires don't like corners very well.  If I push it
too hard, I start driving on the sidewalls.

All poly bushings squeek.  They don't make you car into a rattletrap like
Unlimited says though.  They only squeek on big potholes or going over
speedbumps.  Normal driving they don't make any noise.  The rear Hotchkis
arms have grooved bushings with grease fittings to make them quiet, but they
squeek too.

If you plan to keep 14" wheels, and not drive like a sports car, go with
rubber.  I plan on running with corvettes soon, so I need all the help I can
get.  16x8 wheels and 255 tires are next...

good luck,
greg z


- -----Original Message-----
From: Darrin Johnson <xdarrinj@ti.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, January 07, 1999 11:23 AM
Subject: suspension upgrade/rebuild advice needed


>I am in the process of rebuilding/upgrading the suspension on my 72 Cutlass
>Convertible.  I am looking for a firm (but not harsh) ride with less body
>roll.  Would a 1 1/4 inch front swaybar with a 1 inch rear bar be overkill?
>I will probably have the stock spec springs and KYB Gas Shocks.
>
>I am also undecided about polygraphite vs rubber bushings.  I am leaning
>towards using the stock rubber bushings because of the recommendation in
>Supercars Unlimited catalog.  Any comments?
>
>Darrin Johnson
>djohnsn@ibm.net
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 13:16:36 -0400
From: kelly lannigan <kclannigan@sympatico.ca>
Subject: 64 body mounts

 This is my first question to this list but there will be many to follow
as I am in the middle of a body off frame resto. of a 64 F-85 Cutlass
conv. My first question is can I get NOS body mounts anywhere?If  not,
will basically any G.M. mounts fit? Also are there any 64 part cars for
sale in the Ontario region.If there is one further away I would be
willing to travel if the car is worth it.I would also love to hear from
other 64 Cutlass owners.
        Thanks Mr. Kelly Lannigan
        Bolton Ont. (near Toronto)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 12:46:06 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Mileage no good on '75 Cutlass

I've been having a long-time mileage problem on my stock 75 Cutlass
(350, 4bbl, th350, 2dr).

First:
Bought the car, almost nothing paid, changed the fluids and drove, got
21 MPIG, then 20MPIG, then BETWEEN 17 and 18 MPIG for 5000 miles of
normal driving.  Around winter, it dipped down to 15MPIG, and the choke
/ carb weren't too great anymore, despite carb cleaner.  So last weekend
I got the whole carb-kit new float, etc.., and guess what: 15MPIG at
65MPH highway driving, yet 6000 Miles ago when I got it, it got 21MPIG
at the same thing.  The car runs good, no more black snow on startup,
has all it's factory 28 Horsepower, yet mileage is still horrible!

I was wondering where too look, as my nice new carb kit got me clean
starts, but no MPG's.  I was wondering how one would go about checking
the vacuum and mechanical advance?  Since it just sunk down to this
Milage since I got it, I was thinking the mechanical advance could be
dying (Vacuum advance behaves properly and seems to work).?  How would
one check this, and how easy is it to re-build that part of the
distributor?
I'd like to do it this weekend, as it will be -30something celcius
outside, and I might as well burn up some diesel in my friends furnace
working on the car (I have electric garage heat, not really very warm).

Any suggestions, please send ASAP (cc or reply to
mailto:eric.aksomitis@swp.com please)

Eric Aksomitis
http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/ <-- Sorry, car in question is not on-line
yet....

BTW, MPIG = Miles-per-imperial gallon, which is 4.545 Litres.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 12:53:26 -0600
From: "Greg" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure (Was=RE:Motor Break In)

My '71 350 with 186,000 miles on it had 20 psi tops and idled at 5.  I
rebuilt it 50,000 miles ago and had a high volume pump installed and I get
20-30psi max, below 20 a lot, and 8 at idle.

wish I had higher pressure...
greg z
- -----Original Message-----
From: Igor T. '81 DRB 455 <igor455@home.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, January 07, 1999 12:13 PM
Subject: Re: Oil Pressure (Was=RE:Motor Break In)


>>Just a quick question here, what kind of oil pressure to others have
>>in their Oldsies? My engine (350 Rocket) has about 13,000 on it since
>>rebuild. I run CAM 2 15W 40 in the summer time. I have oil pressures
>>that follow. Cold-Anywhere from about 60 to 75 PSI (Depends on RPM
>>range) Warm Idle-About 40-50 PSI. Warm Driving-About 45-60 (Depending
>>on speed and such) I thought that maybe it was just my gauge that was
>>off but I hooked in another gauge and that read the same reading. I
>>know that this is pretty high. I have had a tough time getting the
>>thing to not leak, but it doesn't leak enough to where I have to add
>>any oil before an oil change. As far as I know, the oil pump is the
>>stock pump. (It came in the box that the disassembled engine was in)
>
>I was getting between 5 and 10 PSI less then you with 10-W30.  It is still
>high, it is just that when it warms up and I am driving it now sits around
>25-30 in drive, warm.  Igor.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 13:59:50 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: That dropped shock (1965 rear end)

Quick note before karl falls down.

Mentioned bolt holding a rear shock to axle broke.

Recently notied that part that was in axle is gone.

If it is "just" a bolt then mebbe its a fix karl can do....

Are these bolts easy to come by?
Are they the same on Cutlaii and possibly avail through Year One or such?

Is there a chrome-moly equivalent?

Or is that lower bolt a part of the shock?

Thanks guys 'n' gals...

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 13:59:49 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Mondello flexplate = altered inertia properties?

In a message dated 99-01-06 03:57:20 EST, you write:

<<  What is the advantage of this?  Does this flexplate offer only additional
strength, or will the added rotating weight alter the performance
characteristics?   >>

OK,
As I see it a thicker & heavier flexplate is designed to alter inertial
properties.

Where inertia (usually a capital i) is a quantity that describes the potential
energy of a body in motion. Inertia is (as I recall) a force resisting
acceleration or decelleration of the body in motion.

In short, inertia is what causes fishtailing and wheelstands or burnouts.

i'd need some time to come up with approximations of how the properties would
be changed in the M flexplate.... gotta look it up.

But as I recall, flexplates are essentially thin in body, thick at center and
outside, right?
So we are going from a thin to thicker disc or thin disc with two thin tings
to a thick disc.......

i'm gonna have nightmares about this one......

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 13:00:52 -0600 (CST)
From: blue442@webtv.net
Subject: Re: Exhaust questions

Joe P posted on this not too long ago.  Lemme see if memory serves.

Flowmaster makes a 2 1/2" aluminized system with crossover pipe for $200
or so at summit.  Other exhaust companies make similar systems,  Torque
Tech and TA performance,  I think.  Surely a local exhaust shop could
make the necessary adapters to hook up the 2 1/4" rear pipes from a GTO
Judge, prolly available from a reproduction retailer such as Year One.
The only catch I remember is that the pipes turn down at the ends on the
goat.  I believe the 72 had no bumper cutouts anyway, so that should be
a minor deal.  If you want straight exit pipes, you could have the
exhaust shop weld on a tip.

Hope this  saved you some typing, Joe.  BTW, I wished I had enough time
at work to interact with the list. :-)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 14:07:37 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)

In a message dated 1/7/99 9:25:41 AM EST, rockman20@yahoo.com writes:

<< Please don't hate me too much here, but does anyone know of a e-mail
 ring for Monte Carlo  >>

Who's Monte Carlo?
You mean Monte Python?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 13:59:40 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Don Sowers' age (wasRe: dick miller responds!)

>Senator who?  Finally, somebody on this list older than me!!!!!!!
Hard to believe isn't it?  ;)

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2
Resting.. oops, I mean rusting under a blanket of snow.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 12:10:56 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: exploding batteries

do you have a manufacturer, part number, some info for us to find out
which alternator (interanally reg) to use. My brother-in-law works at
Napa (what a wonderful blessing!) and he couldn't find anything in his
books about a rebuild kit or even a brand new one that was directly
related to the one I have that is externally regulated. Who to talk to?
Where to find the alte? What man? What p/n? Help us all out Donald

Thank, Ben

Donald B Cart wrote:

> Daniel,
>
>  Have you considered updated your charging system to an
> internally regulated generator ? I just did this on the
> 72 Cutlass and it is fairly simple. The directions are
> on the FAQ page at 442.com or drop me a private email.
>
> Don
> 72 Cutlass Conv
> 90 Calais I-Series

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 07 Jan 1999 12:15:40 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Exploding Batteries!

when I first installed my headers I had a similar problem. since moving my
battery to the trunk it's routed a bit better. I was lucky when mine
shorted out cause instead of blowing up the battery (which it sounded like
it did) it melted the connection where the cable/battery connector are
fuzed together with aluminum or what ever that metal is. It just blew that
connection right there apart. Use a wire to lift my cable off the headers,
buy a new connector end that just bolts on over the cable end and I was
back in business.

Ben

John Pajak wrote:

>      I had a battery explode before. Many years ago, I had a 69
> Cutlass with headers on it. One day I went to start the engine, and
> BOOM!!!! The battery exploded!      The positive battery cable must
> have been routed too close to the headers, because later investigation
> showed that the insulation has burnt off the cable right near one
> header tube. It must have been touching ~just~ enough that particular
> time to cause a DEAD SHORT!
>      Needless to say, I route/check/tie down my battery cables very
> carefully now! :)
>
>
>
> ==
> "2 + 2 = 5 for sufficiently large values of 2"
>
> John Pajak
> Lexington Park, Maryland
>
> Check out our cars, trucks and a whole lot more at
> http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 12:32:59 -0600
From: "Joe Centanni" <jacentan@crown.icongrp.com>
Subject: DM and Joe

Enough w/ the Dick Miller thing while I have not dealt w/ him personally
people I know have and he's never been Mr Pleasant as far as I know
(there's never been a problem either)and as far as Joe goes I cant even get
throught to them so what's the point?.....The only problem is qualified
people for Olds specific work are hard to find..so reluctantly
personalities aside we have to work w/ people we do not like/care about its
real life
		Later
		Jeremy 87 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 13:33:31 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: 72 442 Dash Ground Strap

Well is the problem. I had the dash off of my 72 442 convertible and then
we went to put it back on. There is a metal ground strap that came
somewhere from the light switch area. The problem is I don't remember where
and how it exactly went back on. I looked in the body manuals and they
don't really show a detailed view of this. Any help would be appreciated.

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 13:23:37 -0600 (CST)
From: blue442@webtv.net
Subject: Re: That dropped shock (1965 rear end)

Hey Karl,
I had mismatched lower rear shock bolts on my 68 when I got it.  It had
Monroe shocks that looked fairly new, but the bolts bothered me,
especially since it's kind sorta visible from behind the car.  

You can find the bolts in the H*LP! section of just about any parts
store, but all of these type bolts I've seen so far suck.  They are
often just low grade all-thread with a sleeve, nuts and washers.  I
wound up just getting new Monroe shocks because of their bolt.  It was a
one piece design with stepped up collar where the shock fits.  Only one
nut to turn, too.

Later,
Jeff Carter
blue442@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 13:39:58 -0600
From: "Greg" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: windshield/conv. top seal leaking

My '71 cutlass convertible top seal is leaking horribly.  The rubber is only
a couple years old.  When driving down the highway I get a constant (and
cold) breeze coming through.  Water pours in also.  From the outside, all
looks well.  On the inside, I can fit my fingers in between the frame and
windshield frame on the passenger side, but not the drivers side.  I played
with the clamp screws to no avail.  My father (original owner) thinks that
the clamp screws are too tight and "bowing" to the top in the middle.  I
tried backing them out some and the leaks got worse.


I'm getting ready to silicone glue the darn thing closed (not really).  Any
suggestions?

- -greg z

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 11:43:53 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: (Non Olds......Sorry)

- ---JonKrisInc@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 1/7/99 9:25:41 AM EST, rockman20@yahoo.com writes:
> 
> << Please don't hate me too much here, but does anyone know of a
e-mail
>  ring for Monte Carlo  >>
> 
> Who's Monte Carlo?
> You mean Monte Python?
> 
Nope, I mean a 1986 Chevy Monte Carlo SS.
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 11:54:13 -0800 
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: windshield/conv. top seal leaking

Have the same problem on my 98. 

Have never figured it out. 

Some adhesive backed foam rubber attached to the top works pretty well as a
shim to reduce the leaks. You can get these strips in various widths and
thicknesses at your local hardware store. Usually they're used to seal home
doors and windows, but it works o.k. on my car too. 

If you're not concerned about top-down asthetics, you can put a thick strip
on the windshield side of the seal which might work as a dam to keep water
and wind out better than a top side only solution.

hope this helps,
cf

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Greg [mailto:zimmermangm@email.msn.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 07, 1999 11:40 AM
> To: Olds list
> Subject: windshield/conv. top seal leaking
> 
> 
> My '71 cutlass convertible top seal is leaking horribly.  The 
> rubber is only
> a couple years old.  When driving down the highway I get a 
> constant (and
> cold) breeze coming through.  Water pours in also.  From the 
> outside, all
> looks well.  On the inside, I can fit my fingers in between 
> the frame and
> windshield frame on the passenger side, but not the drivers 
> side.  I played
> with the clamp screws to no avail.  My father (original 
> owner) thinks that
> the clamp screws are too tight and "bowing" to the top in the 
> middle.  I
> tried backing them out some and the leaks got worse.
> 
> 
> I'm getting ready to silicone glue the darn thing closed (not 
> really).  Any
> suggestions?
> 
> -greg z
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 15:14:28 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Dick Miller/response to my e-mail

In a message dated 1/7/99 9:03:58 AM Pacific Standard Time, comid@jellico.com
writes:

<< The internet also has the power to make vendors think before giving
 flippant, obnoxious responses. I think that's a good thing. If DMR gets a
 mailbox full of negative e-mails over an incident such as this, one of two
 thing could happen. Either he'll become more curteous (knowing that the
 internet will cause his statements to be very LOUD), or he will become
 bitter and be even more rude.  >>

     Dick E-mailed me and apologized...also added something about not being
the first person asked on the original question..I kind of apologized too, so
anyone that felt one way or the other about how this should have been handled
should be happy. Just don't tear people up when you e-mail them. Threats and
swearing won't do anything but make the situation worse. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 7 Jan 1999 15:25:41 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Exhaust questions

Hope this  saved you some typing, Joe.  BTW, I wished I had enough time
at work to interact with the list. :-)
________

Thanks for the thought, but unfortunately I had already responded to the
original question before I read this far in my mailbox.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: 7 Jan 99 13:32:55 MST
From: RSTOMN <restoman@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: [Thomas Martin, Local Machine Shop]]

oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:
RSTOMN wrote:
> 
> oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca wrote:
> Before I had problems with my 'puter and then went on vacation, Thomas
> Martin asked me for the address and Phone number of the Machine Shop
> that  I was going to bring my crank to.  This is it,
> 
>         General Engine & Machine Incorporated
>         9112 Terminal Ave
>         Skokie, IL 60077-1514
>         (847) 966-7466
> 
> Ask for Frank.
> 
> I'll be bringing in my crank later this month or eaarly next.
> 
> Also, Dick Miller and Mondello sell the exact same part number for a
> crank bearing, but their installation instructions are different.  Joe
> has you bore the crank .001" less than the bearing diameter for a press
> fit while Dave has you overbore it by .001" and machine the crank for a
> snap ring that he encloses with the bearing.  My trusty Olds shop manual
> shows the '65 cranks being a press fit.  I believe I'll go the Mondello
> route of this one.  Naturally the price is still better from Dick Miller
> though.
> 
> Good to be back and many thanks to Greg B. for taking care of my list
> troubles(and the list in general).
> 
> Paul Brillhart
> 
> >Is that the same Frank from the old Touhy Automotive?
> in Skokie?
> 
> RESTOMAN
> 
> ____________________________________________________________________
> More than just email--Get your FREE Netscape WebMail account today at
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  One:  I don't know if it is the same Frank.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

>> Reason I ask is the" Frank "I used
was exellent,hebuilt my hot rod motors when I
was growing up there in Skokie.Blew one of em
up so bad all 8 rods hit Demster street! 




  Two:  I mistakenly listed Dick Miller instead of Dave Smith ho I
bought the bearing from.


  Later.


  Paul Brillhart


RESTOMAN

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1707
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