Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1735


oldsmobile-digest      Tuesday, January 26 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1735



Re: Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)
RE: Confused parts clerks
Re: Confused Parts Clerks, Salvage Yard Clerks too...
Re: Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)
Gullible McFly (was parts clerks and salvage yards too)
RE: motor oil recommendations?
RE: A & B,C Trailing Arms Swap!
Re: PCV in New Mickey Thompson Al Rocker Covers + More
Re: Standard Monty
Re: motor oil recommendations?
Need a solution to my Key problem
Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming
Fuel injected 307 in '90-'92 Custom Cruisers?
Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming
Re: Fuel injected 307 in '90-'92 Custom Cruisers?
Re: Need a solution to my Key problem
Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming
Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming
A quick rearend question (Was Rear Springs!)
Re: Need a solution to my Key problem
Hall's was RE: Standard Monty
Maaco (kinda long)
Re: Hall's was RE: Standard Monty
Re: Hurst Shifter Talk
tap and plug the bypass in the filter.....
Re: who to trust
lawnmower I have.............
Date:	Tue, 26 Jan 1999 12:26:07 -0800
re: Need a solution to my Key problem
Do I get "The most Posts for One Day Award" ??
Rear '70 4-4-2 Lower Boxed Ctrl Arms
Re: Hall's was RE: Standard Monty
Re: Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)
sorry non olds (but need help)
Re: Rear '70 4-4-2 Lower Boxed Ctrl Arms
Tragedy that shouldn't have been
Re: UNBOUNCE: 86 cutlass gauges
Re: The H*nd* *cc*rd lost!
Re: Tragedy that shouldn't have been
Re: Tragedy that shouldn't have been
Re: Maaco (kinda long)
RE: The H*nd* *cc*rd lost!
Re: Tragedy that shouldn't have been
Re: Tragedy that shouldn't have been
Newer Toronada
Re: Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)
Re: UNBOUNCE: Re: motor oil recommendations?
Re: Need a solution to my Key problem
Re: Vaseline Talk
Re: Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)
Re: Vaseline Talk
"88" Retired
Re: Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)
Re: "88" Retired
Re: Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)
Re: Need a solution to my Key problem

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 11:51:41 -0600
From: "Michael L Johnson" <mljohns2@crnotes.collins.rockwell.com>
Subject: Re: Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)

Along with a really nice G-Body I also own a mint 1988 Fiero GT with a
5speed and a new LS1. Yes, thats right, I said a corvette LS1. This car
really hauls ass, I bought the kit from http://www.v8archie.com/ The
licensce plate on it reads 2QIK4U. Just a license plate suggestion.

Mike Johnson





Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

To:   oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
cc:
Subject:  Re: Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)




> Well, it's now time to renew the license plate for the '68 442
> conv. Since I can actually drive it now, I thought it'd be nice
> to order a personalized plate.
>
> Anyone have any good suggestions for this car? BTW, it's triple
> black and now has a 455.

This is one of those threads that tends to go on forever,  :-)
but just for the record, what's the maximum number of letters
you can have on the plates in your state? (Which state?)

If you can pick numbers as well, can they go _before_ the letters,
_after_ the letters, or _anywhere_ within the letters?

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 11:52:08 -0600
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: Confused parts clerks

So you have a 77-79 400 Olds, right?  Or is it a 400 long stroke, short
stroke, small block, big block, yadda yadda yadda...

Ok, did you EXPLAIN it to them?  (Hard to keep from slapping them silly when
they try to tell you what you have in your own car, isn't it?)

Ask them to find you a part for a 350 Chrysler....(They made one in the
50's!)...Oh, I am sorry you must have a 350 Chevy in there, not a
Chrysler......Chrysler never made a 350....Sure, ok....whatever YOU say.....

>I may be repeating myself here, I foget...
>
>There is no such engine as a 403 made by Oldsmobile.  I have a 400.
>This is according to Big A.


Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 09:55:15 -0800 (PST)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Confused Parts Clerks, Salvage Yard Clerks too...

  Last summer I went to one of the few local salvage yards in my area.
 I asked the guy if he had any 4 bbl intake manifolds for an olds 350.
 He tells me that in order to put a 4bbl intake on my 350, I have to
get the heads and manifold off of a 455 because 350's didn't come with
a 4bbl option and a 4bbl manifold won't align with my heads.  I stood
there for a few seconds and let that sink in, then said "uh, ok" and
left.  Of course, this is the same guy that told my buddy that it's
illegal to have taillight lenses from two different years on the same
car! I don't think I'll be going back there anytime soon...
==

     Stefan
     1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
     70Cutlass@Beer.com

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 12:56:12 EST
From: Fireman431@aol.com
Subject: Re: Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)

I've got a 66 convertible, overbored 455, tunnel ram, dual 600's, steel crank,
fully built, muncie 4 speed and 3:90 gears......my personalized plate sums it
up....
WHUMP.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 13:01:17 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: Gullible McFly (was parts clerks and salvage yards too)

> left.  Of course, this is the same guy that told my buddy that it's
> illegal to have taillight lenses from two different years on the same
> car! I don't think I'll be going back there anytime soon...
> ==
> 
ROTFLMAO

WOW, that's all I can say

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 12:06:21 -0600
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: motor oil recommendations?

YES!  A friend of mine got misled by the name Torquer from Edelbrock on his
AMC 360.  He got a 750 CFM 3310 Holley, and a Torquer, if you have ever seen
the Torquer for a AMC, it is more like a Victor on a SBC.  HUGE!  Nearly 5
inches from carb bottom to floor, most of the way to the port.

I talked him into a 1 inch carb spacer/heat separator gasket set.  It make a
MEASUREABLE increase in mileage and drivability, especially in cold weather.
This helps increase some of the vacuum signal t the carb, enhancing
driveability somewhat.  Note, his 360 is a 1990, and stone stock other than
intake.  AMC rated it at 144 hp.  And the Holley 750 was a BIG performance
improvement over the Motorcrap 2bbl (Yuck!!) and restrictive 2bbl intake.

You usually cannot go wrong on the street with a .5 to 1 in spacer.  Other
than height restrictions.

>Still nobody replied to my earlier question:
>
>
>* Will a carb spacer get some more response in the lower rpm range when
>  used on a single plane intake manifold?

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 10:14:59 -0800
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: A & B,C Trailing Arms Swap!

Joe,
I used the 64-72 parts, on the assumption that they'd be more likely to fit.
I was taking a flyer on this one. You make an excellent point about the
pinion angle. 

I had the same thought, so I checked the arms before installation against
some that I'd pulled from the boneyard for reference. They were the same
length, width, height and the distances from the between the bushing hole
centers. I concluded that the arms were the same -- except the new ones were
boxed. My shop used 7/16 bolts for the sway bar 
too. 

Serious question here: How big do you think my exposure to the wrong pinion
angle is? I know this is a critical angle for driveline vibration, but don't
know how measure. Is this somethign I can do at home or am I better off to
have my shop do it?

I've only driven it about 5 miles so far, and didn't note any weird
vibrations, but the U-joints are pretty new too so they might be more
tolerant than usual. 

Look forward to hearing your thoughts on the topic.
cf

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Padavano.Joe@orbital.com [mailto:Padavano.Joe@orbital.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 1999 6:45 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: A & B,C Trailing Arms Swap!
> 
> Yes. A body trailing arms both the upper (inner) and lower (outer) swap
into
> the 1966 big cars.
> __________
> Chris,
> 
> Very cool.  A couple of questions, however.  I assume you compared the
> A-body and full-size arms to verify their similarity prior to
installation.
> Obviously, since the rear suspension has many degrees of freedom, arms
> which are slightly different in length could still be installed
> successfully, however the pinion angle would likely be 
> incorrect, leading
> to premature u-joint wear and possibly excessive driveline vibration.
> Also, which year A-body parts did you use, the 64-67 or 
> 68-72?  They are slightly different.
> 
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
> 
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 69 442
> 70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 13:27:05 EST
From: R4C442@aol.com
Subject: Re: PCV in New Mickey Thompson Al Rocker Covers + More

Hey Steve!
    Be sure to mount your breather/pcv holes away from a direct stream of oil
to the rockers. Those MT are notorius for blowing oil.
                                                     Ron Forsee
                                                     65 442-Meister

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 12:49:25 -0600
From: "Michael L Johnson" <mljohns2@crnotes.collins.rockwell.com>
Subject: Re: Standard Monty

It was the only one we saw, I haven't gone back to pick it up, I was going
to do it this weekend when I went to get the rearend out of the cutlass
wagon. I told the lady at the counter that I wanted it and to save it for
me. She said it wouldn't be a problem. Have you tried to use the
international search service that some of the larger salvage yards are
hooked too? I did find some of the necessary parts that way, that is were I
found the bellhousing and some new clutch pedal and brake pedal rubber pads
for the foot feet. There used to be a huge oldsmobile salvage yard in
Kansas that my uncle used to get parts for his 1968 Cutlass at. I don't
know if there still in business though, haven't been able to track them
down. My uncle told me though that they used to be one of the hugest bone
yards around and it was all nothing but Oldsmobile. I two have been looking
for standard tranny setup for quite some years now, have tried a lot search
services and a lot time on the phone, then I happen to be going through the
salvage yard that time has forgotten (along with everyone else, this place
is in the middle of no where with most of the cars in mile high weeds) and
find exactly what I'm looking for. Will definitely keep you in mind though.

Mike Johnson




"Gary Couse" <gjcouse@francomm.com> on 01/26/99 12:24:52 PM

Please respond to gjcouse@framcomm.com

To:   Michael L Johnson/CedarRapids/Collins/Rockwell
cc:
Subject:  Standard Monty




Hey Michael;

There wasn't/isn't any chance there was a second Standard Monty in that
yard? I too, am looking for all the standard G-body clutch components to
swap into the '86 prototype Quincy. So far I have found nothing. Nor are
any
G-body variants dealers for GM able to get the components for me. I'm
considering going hydrolic but would prefer the pedal feel of manual.

So, in your travels should you come acrost another complete G-body clutch
set, please keep me in mind.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
Project Forum Delphi Site:
http://www.delphi.com/cc_iroc_ss

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 11:31:33 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re: motor oil recommendations?

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 08:51:29 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: motor oil recommendations?

Hi Guys 

Slowly but surely getting to the point where I can turn the key:

Congratulations, it's a great experience to be able to do that after all the
time and money invested!

* What kind of Motor Oil would you recommend for my new rebuilt 350 
  (stock), .60 over, in the warm climate of Louisiana? 

When starting with a ~FRESH~ rebuild, I always use NON-Detergent oil,
usually 30 weight.  I was advised this by my boss @ the machine shop, he in
turn was told by his boss.  All oils have a friction reducing agent in them
which does not allow the piston rings to properly seat/seal.  

* When is the first oil change due on a new rebuild?
I usually break in the motor for 1/2 hour, varying RPMs and fine tuning
timing and other little things.  I then Change the oil again with
NON-Detergent 30 weight.

After the break in is done, I then change the oil after 500 Miles, again
with NON detergent until 3000 miles.  I then switch to regular oil after
that.

Still nobody replied to my earlier question:

* Will a carb spacer get some more response in the lower rpm range when 
  used on a single plane intake manifold?

I think Joe P. commented on this a few posts ago, I'm not real sure myself.

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 11:23 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Need a solution to my Key problem

> How can I go about getting keys for
>the doors, especially if the original is gone?

     Matt, I found out that it is pretty easy to rekey your own locks. 
These locks work very simply, there is an inner cylinder into which 
your key goes. This sits in an outer housing. Small pins of varying 
lengths fit into holes in the inner cylinder. There are corresponding 
short pins in the stationary lock housing, which push down onto the 
inner cylinder (small springs above them). When the wrong key or no 
key is in the inner cylinder, the pins protrude from the housing into 
the holes in the inner cylinder, preventing it from turning. When the 
right key is in the lock, all the pin ends line up with the surface
of the inner cylinder, allowing it to turn in the housing. A picture 
is worth a thousand words here, pity I can't include one.

   To rekey a lock you need several similar locks from a junkyard to 
donate parts. What you do is pull the chromed clip off the barrel of 
the lock you want to rekey, and shake out all the pins and springs 
from it. Remove the inner cylinder of this lock, put the key you want 
to rekey this lock to into the inner cylinder. Now similarly 
disassemble the donor locks and put all the pins together. Try one pin 
at a time in each hole of the lock you are re-keying. What you are 
searching for is pins that sit in the inner cylinder with their tops 
flush with it, when your key is inserted. Once you find them, put the 
inner cylinder back in the housing, put the short upper pins into the 
housing, put the little springs on top of it, slide the clip on, and 
voila! You're done.   This is much easier to do than the description 
above suggests, take apart a junkyard lock and you'll figure it out in 
no time. I needed three donor locks to get the right set of pins for 
the lock I was rekeying, but these are dirt cheap at most junkyards, I 
think I paid 50 cents apiece for them.

   When I bought my Road Runner I found the previous owner had 
replaced the passenger side door with a junkyard one, but neglected to 
get the key to the swapped door or to keep the lock from the old door. 
Since there was no key available for that door, he just left it 
permanently locked and removed the lock pull-rod so no one would ever 
be tempted to use it (!!). I guess not all idiots work at the auto 
parts store :)  . I rekeyed the lock to match the other door.  Now I 
have the same key for both doors and the ignition, which I like.

- -John Carri

'72 Supreme
'73 Plymouth Road Runner

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 11:50:51 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming

Since there has been a little chatter regarding the usage of Vaseline, I
just thought I'd share my knowledge bestowed upon me by my gear head
professor in Tech College.  He always recommended removing the plate off a
new oil pump and packing the gears with Vaseline.  It help with picking up
the oil in a brand new pump.  There is absolutely no oil in there on a fresh
rebuild, and it takes a while to actually pick up any oil to recirculate
through the engine, and the Vaseline acts as a 'Prime'.  It also breaks down
at 100' F so it's no big deal

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop 
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 14:14:50 -0600
From: cdemps@lsumc.edu (Dempsey, Charles)
Subject: Fuel injected 307 in '90-'92 Custom Cruisers?

Hi List,

The Standard Catalog Of Oldsmobile says that the Custom Cruiser was
re-vamped in 1990 with a fuel injected 307. It goes on to say that a 5.7
liter was optional.

The Olds FAQ says;
"The 307 stayed carbureted until the bitter end. Every 307 used a 4bbl
carb - there were no 2bbl models. The last of the GM 4-bbl engines. In
fact, it came on the Caprice wagon, Olds Custom Cruiser wagon, Buick
Estate wagon, and Cadillac Brougham (5.7L Chevy V-8 was optional on this
one)."

So! I gather that the optional 5.7 liter engine was the Chivvy 350. Was
the fuel injected 307 an Oldsmobile engine, or something else?

Thanks,
Charles

Please cc: cdemps@lsumc.edu if you reply. I'm subscribed in digest mode
and might not otherwise see your response for a couple of days.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 15:16:23 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming

In a message dated 1/26/99 11:59:33 AM Pacific Standard Time,
sreed@chatsworth.com writes:

<< Since there has been a little chatter regarding the usage of Vaseline, I
 just thought I'd share my knowledge bestowed upon me by my gear head
 professor in Tech College.  He always recommended removing the plate off a
 new oil pump and packing the gears with Vaseline.  It help with picking up
 the oil in a brand new pump.  There is absolutely no oil in there on a fresh
 rebuild, and it takes a while to actually pick up any oil to recirculate
 through the engine, and the Vaseline acts as a 'Prime'.  It also breaks down
 at 100' F so it's no big deal >>

       Steve, I have heard this before. I understand lubing the gears on
initial startup, just a good idea. My question is, if there is no oil in the
oil pump at startup, how does oil ever make it's way up there? Maybe I
misunderstand the pickup system, but the way I look at it, the gears HAVE to
be immersed in oil at startup, or they would have to be primed every time. I
can't see how oil would be picked up through the tube by the stock setup..it's
just two gears forcing fluid upwards by their meshing, correct? How would the
oil get up the pickup? Just curious, Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 15:15:22 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Fuel injected 307 in '90-'92 Custom Cruisers?

So! I gather that the optional 5.7 liter engine was the Chivvy 350. Was
the fuel injected 307 an Oldsmobile engine, or something else?

Thanks,
Charles
___________

Yep, the 350 was an LT1 injected motor.  I'm assuming that the "fuel
injected" 307 was either a carbureted 307 (though it _was_ an electronic
Q-jet) or an injected 305 Chebby.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 15:19:13 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Need a solution to my Key problem

To rekey a lock you need several similar locks from a junkyard to
donate parts. What you do is pull the chromed clip off the barrel of
the lock you want to rekey,...
_________

This is the part that requires a little magic.  In all my attempts to
non-destructively disassemble a GM door lock cylinder, I've never been able
to get the stainless cover off the barrel without destroying it.  The
factory stainless covers were apparently swaged on, whereas the service
replacements come with tabs to allow them to be installed by normal mortals
without the fancy factory tooling.  Unfortunately, I've only seen the
service replacement covers as a part of the complete replacement lock
package.  Does anyone know if these service covers are, in fact, available
separately, and what the source is?

Thanks

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 15:21:18 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming

He always recommended removing the plate off a
new oil pump and packing the gears with Vaseline.
________

Yep, absolutely correct.  I read about this trick 25 years ago in Hot Rod
or some such, and it's still the best way to get an oil pump to prime.
I've done it on every motor I've ever built, and it works great.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 15:24:06 -0500
From: "Ken" <olds442@en.com>
Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk / Engine Rebuilding / Priming

Yank the distributor out, put a 1/4" drive 3/8 socket on a 6 inch extension.
Put it over the oil pump shaft.  put the other end of the extension in the
drill chuck.  A variable speed drill would be best.  Run the drill till oil
comes out of the tops of the pushrods.  Your motor is primed.  Toss the
distributor back in put the valve covers on and fire it up..   That way you
can save your Vaseline for other things..

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 12:37:41 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: A quick rearend question (Was Rear Springs!)

- ---John Pajak <jspajak@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>      Regarding rear springs:
> 
> 1) Contrary to an earlier post, you do not have to remove the control
> arms to change the springs! All that is needed is to disconnect the
> shocks at the bottom and drop the rearend a few inches below its
> normal travel. The springs then literally fall out. Don't drop the
> axle too far though or you'll tear the rubber brake line!
> 
> 2) As long as the shocks are bolted in the springs will not fall out!
> Put the car up on a frame lift and see for yourself if you don't
> believe me!
> 
> 3) The rear spring indexing mentioned in the service manual allows the
> maximum clearance for the tailpipes!
> 
> Hope this helps!
==============================
Finally, someone cured my curiousity! I couldn't remember from when I
replaced my rear springs. Don't you just hate that when you know that
you've done something but you can't quite remember how you did it? It
made me want to go out to the garage and drop the rear again just so I
could remember how it was done! :-)

I got another question since we are on the rear of the car. I figure
that I will have to find a new rear-end to put in my Cutlass. I have
that 'O' rear. I would like to keep it if anyone could point me to a
posi unit and about a mid 3ish gearing. If not, what kind of car
should I start scowering the yards for? The rearend will have to fit
in a 69 Olds Cutlass S. I want something that I can buy gears and a
posi unit for.

Thanks,
Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 15:40:28 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Need a solution to my Key problem

In a message dated 1/26/99 0:54:52 AM EST, RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu
writes:

<< I actually like the door and ignition keys being the same; in fact, I wish
 the trunk worked off the same key as well. Some day my dream is to key all
 the cylinders of our cars and the truck alike, so I have one key that works
 *everything*.
  >>
Sounds great except you lose the security of your trunk. Hence the detachable
keyring. You leave the starter key with the garage attendent. Lock the glove
box (in case you have a remote button in there that opens the trunk) and
remove the trunk key. 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 12:44:44 -0800
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: Hall's was RE: Standard Monty

Let us all have a moment of silence for the passing of Hall's junkyard in
Kansas. 

Out of business about 2 years ago. Dang.

There used to be a huge oldsmobile salvage yard in
> Kansas that my uncle used to get parts for his 1968 Cutlass 
> at. I don't
> know if there still in business though, haven't been able to 
> track them
> down. My uncle told me though that they used to be one of the 
> hugest bone
> yards around and it was all nothing but Oldsmobile. 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 12:48:49 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Maaco (kinda long)

- ---Ken Swick <swickka@pa.net> wrote:
> If you had paint job done by Maaco ... your impression
> and suggestion might be helpful to the list.
> 
> I am looking for good, not excellent paint on 
> my daily driver ... 81 Cutlass Supreme.
==============================
I would not recommend Maaco for any painting jobs. I brought my car to
them with everything stripped. Paint included. It was down to just a
bare shell. The body work was very close to done. All they needed was
to do petty little touches and the body was done. Well, they charged
me something like 1200 for the paint and slight body work. They told
me a week to get it done. A week came and went and my car still sat.
Finally, about 2 weeks later he calls me and tells me the car is done.
I make arrangements to take my lunch hour and go get it. I drive 20
minutes to get there only to find that a worker had dropped something
on the side creating a HUGE scratch from the front to the back of the
car. I missed my lunch for this! A week later, my car is finally done.
At the time I was pretty happy about the job. After all, 1200 isn't a
whole lot for a paint job. But, now that it is just about 2 years
later, the paint is very brittle. One little dent and the paint is
cracking. (found this out after my accident) There are spots by the
tail lights where the paint is flaking off already! I wouldn't give
the car another year before the whole paint job starts flaking off.
Not to mention, there was A LOT of overspray onto windows, windshield
trim, and the interior! 

On the other hand though, I have seen a perfect car come out of Maaco
for close to the same price. That car was perfect and the paint was
older then mine. No flakes no small bubbles, no dust marks, nothing.
*shrugging shoulders* I just take it as "MY LUCK". But, I will never
go back to them.

My $1.50 worth!
Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 14:53:13 -0600
From: "Michael L Johnson" <mljohns2@crnotes.collins.rockwell.com>
Subject: Re: Hall's was RE: Standard Monty

What ever happened to all the cars, did someone buy them out or where they
all crushed?






Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com> on 01/26/99 02:44:44 PM

Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

To:   oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
cc:
Subject:  Hall's was RE: Standard Monty




Let us all have a moment of silence for the passing of Hall's junkyard in
Kansas.

Out of business about 2 years ago. Dang.

There used to be a huge oldsmobile salvage yard in
> Kansas that my uncle used to get parts for his 1968 Cutlass
> at. I don't
> know if there still in business though, haven't been able to
> track them
> down. My uncle told me though that they used to be one of the
> hugest bone
> yards around and it was all nothing but Oldsmobile.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 12:41:59 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re: Hurst Shifter Talk

>Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 10:31:01 -0500
>From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@LILLY.COM>
>Subject: Re: Hurst Shifter Talk

>>If you have had this done with replacing the bushings did you use rubber
or
>>nylon?  Did it quiet down the linkage a bit?  That was the most annoying
>>part of the ride in my car.

>FWIW, I have a Competition Plus in my car and have used two different
V-Gate
>shifters in the past in other vehicles.  I never use anything except the
steel
>bushings, as the others wear too quickly and cause the shifting to become
>sloppy.  I have never really paid much attention to noise from the linkage
>because I have never noticed it to begin with.  Are you sure you don't have
>some other problems causing vibration in the shifter?  If you are using the
>Hurst clips to attach the rods, everything should be nice and snug.

>Dave Wyatt
>70  4-4-2

Dave,
	It's really hard to say whether it was the linkage,bushings, or
clips, or shifter. 
I'll look in the Year One Catalog to see if they were the correct ones,
They looked it, the straight part went thru the linkage and a rounded part
held close to the linkage itself.

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 11:55:15 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: tap and plug the bypass in the filter.....

> Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 14:11:59 -0600
> From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
> Subject: Re: motor oil recommendations?


> My other personal preference is to tap and plug the bypass in the filter
> adapter so that if the oil press starts to drop I know to change the oil
> and don't have to worry about unfiltered oil circulating in the motor
> without me knowing it. 

M/rs Bloomer,
	I'm not familiar with the procedure you described about tapping &
plugging the oil filter adapter.  Could you possibly expand on that one a
little.

Thanx!!

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 12:15:00 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re: who to trust

Subject: Re: who to trust

<< When talking about the parts geniuses Greg said "no wonder I never let
anyone work on my car".  This has recently become my mantra.  Unless I'm
standing right there I'd rather walk than "trust someone with my classics.
Every time I Pay A Pro to do something I don't have tools or time to do I
Get
Burned. >>

The Only place I take my car to get serviced is the front end alignment
place, and Exhaust repair.  Having worked in a machine shop you'd become
friends with a lot of the guys and find out who's the best in town. I
~REALLY~ miss that part of the job (And free labor)!


        You really have to make sure that you can trust who you have do the
work is what it comes down too. I have heard horror stories from people that
worked in machine shops about some of the practices where they
worked....taking other peoples motors that they were building and race them
at
the strip a few times, using the same or used camshaft but charging for a
new
one, etc. Something like that, how is the consumer to know? You can't. Sucks
that places will do things like this, but hey, when you find the right
shop/person, your set. Dorian

Get this,
	We had one guy come in and sue us (Machine shop) because his motor
seized. We cleaned the block with hot tank (Before we got the oven & Shot
Cleaner) and degreased the oil pan & Rods & Intake.  That was it.
	When he brought the engine in it was all scored, tiny pits on the
moving surfaces.  We asked the guy what he did.  He glass beaded the pistons
[ NEVER blast the ring lands/Skirts!!!  Smokey Unick tip (Sp??)] and the
Intake.  He never bothered to wash the parts with fresh water and COMPLETELY
blast out each hole with compressed air.  Needless to say the case was
dropped like a lead balloon!!


Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 12:18:09 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: lawnmower I have.............

>      Good point...most motor oils also contain detergent too now, right?
>hat kind of percentage do they run, know by any chance? Are there any motor
>ils that tend to have more detergent that could help clean an engine out
when
>t's running? (yes, I have run transmission fluid in a motor before hehe)
>because now that I think about it, the lawnmower I have calls for non-
>detergent 30W....hmm....Dorian


Dorian,
	As I replied earlier they DO still make a NON-detergent oil.
Usually it's 30 weight.

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin TX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 12:26:07 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Date:	Tue, 26 Jan 1999 12:26:07 -0800

Subject: Neoprene Rear Main Seal:455

I was just curious to those with 455s that used the 2 piece neoprene rear
main seal. Mondello calls for it to be staggered when put it. I know people
who didn't stagger them and they had no leaks. Is it better to stagger it
or just put it in normally?

Pettrix@prodigy.net

Peter,
	When I used to rebuild engines every day, I would stagger the ends
of the rear main seals.  One being at approximately 2 O'clock, and the other
at approximately 8 O'clock.  It's a lot better than both parallel to the
back of the block.  ALSO a good note is to take a THIN bead of RTV and run
down each side of the block's outer edge where the main caps sits.  


Rear main saddle, as best I can do with ASCII.  X = Thin coat of RTV .

	|		 |
	|X___________X|

Just a few tips I have learned in my Machine Shop Days.

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 12:29:26 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: re: Need a solution to my Key problem

>Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 06:30:02 -0800 (PST)
>From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
>Subject: Re: Need a solution to my Key problem

>Matt,

>I kind of had the same problem with my Olds. The key that he had for
>the doors would not work in the trunk. (side note....getting in a
>locked trunk SUCKS!!!) I finally got the trunk open and I took the
>whole lock assembly to a local locksmith. They did what they call
>'keying the lock'. They measure all the tumblers inside and they make
>a key to work in there. Fairly cheap. I just couldn't afford (at the
>time) to have all the tumblers changed. I am going to do that soon so
>that I don't have to have a key for the trunk, one for the doors, and
>one for the ignition!

>Del

Del,
	You should have been able to bring in the DOOR key and the trunk
lock cylinder & have the keysmith make the tumbler match the door key so you
won't need 2 separate keys.  I did it with my 4-4-2.

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 12:37:33 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Do I get "The most Posts for One Day Award" ??

HEY ALL,
	Do I get "The most Posts for One Day Award"??  OK, it's a slow work
day today....  But I love this group/information !!


Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 12:34:47 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Rear '70 4-4-2 Lower Boxed Ctrl Arms

Is there a difference between left and right rear Control arms for the
4-4-2?  When I was in a rush (35 days to go from frame off, to complete
assembly ALONE!!!) I couldn't find my 2nd boxed ctrl arm.  I used the non
boxed set I had blasted, painted and re-bushed.  Is there a difference
between the boxed rear ctrl arms?

Anyone know what the "NY" stamp on my crtl arms means?  The car was bought
in upstate NY BTW

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 16:03:40 -0500 (EST)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Re: Hall's was RE: Standard Monty

Most of the loose parts went to Everett Horton in R>I.  Most of the cars 
were crushed... sob

Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio 
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets  
  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 16:10:57 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Re: Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)

Sorry, I guess it would help if I told you. 

State: Tennessee

7 digits total. Any letter or number. No punctuation. 


At 08:45 AM 1/26/99 PST, you wrote:
>> Well, it's now time to renew the license plate for the '68 442
>> conv. Since I can actually drive it now, I thought it'd be nice
>> to order a personalized plate. 
>>
>> Anyone have any good suggestions for this car? BTW, it's triple
>> black and now has a 455.
>
>This is one of those threads that tends to go on forever,  :-)
>but just for the record, what's the maximum number of letters
>you can have on the plates in your state? (Which state?)
>
>If you can pick numbers as well, can they go _before_ the letters,
>_after_ the letters, or _anywhere_ within the letters?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 16:17:03 EST
From: MAT68442@aol.com
Subject: sorry non olds (but need help)

I have a brother that has a 95 S10 Blazer. He is a missionary in Guatemala and
is having a problem with the speedometer. It sometimes works and other times
it just jumps around and other times it doesn't work at all. He says there is
three electrical plugs on the trans. Does anyone know which one would be the
speedometer? Or if you think it could be anything else different. I will be
traveling there next month and Im sure I'll be working on it if it's not fixed
by then, if you have any suggestions please e-mail me direct or to the list,
any help will be appreciated.
	

Thank you
Mark
87 442
71 cutlass s

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 16:19:55 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Rear '70 4-4-2 Lower Boxed Ctrl Arms

Is there a difference between left and right rear Control arms for the
4-4-2?
________

Nope, right and left are identical.  And, of course, the only difference
between the boxed and non-boxed are the welded-in insert that provides the
bottom surface of the box and the reinforcements around the bolt holes for
the sway bar.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 424
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 16:12:07 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Tragedy that shouldn't have been

Afternoon List,

Gonna have to sign off for about a week.  I have to go to Bangor, Maine
to attend the funeral of my wife's niece, to whom she was very close.
It appears she hit an embankment after sliding on the ice and was thrown
from the car.  If only she was wearing her seatbelt she may still be
alive...she was only 19.  I really hate to sound like everyone's dad
here, but keep the seatbelts on guys, it's just not worth the risk.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 13:29:09 PST
From: "scott slater" <slater442w30@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: 86 cutlass gauges

Well I never said it would be easy but the way I would go about finding 
the wires for the oil and water gauges is first disconnect the battery.  
Then get a battery charger and hook up the ground to the chassis 
somewhere.  After you do that find the old water or oil sending units 
and unplug them one at a time.  What I did was plugged a wire connecter 
into the end of the wire where it used to hook up the sending unit 
(meaning don't cut the connecters at the sending unit they will swap 
from "dummy lights" to gauges without modification) after you plug a 
wire into those plugs hook up the battery charger positive lead to the 
wire connector.  After you do this go into the interior and get a test 
light with an alligator clip on one end and a pointy tip on the other.  
Hook up the alligator clip onto the doorjamb light switch on the metal 
to ground it and then keep touching the wires in the cluster behind the 
dash with the other end of the tester.  When the light in the tester 
lights up you know the wire you have is the one that the charger is 
hooked up to.  After you know this you can find the proper spot in the 
cluster by following the printed circuit on the circuit board to the oil 
gauge and install it accordingly then plug the wire into the oil sending 
unit.  You can repeat this for any wire in the cluster.  It took me 
about two days of spare time to wire up my friends car.  After I got it 
done there were a few spare wires that I taped up and left out of the 
cluster and all the gauges worked fine.  As for the tach You should 
unplug the wire that is in there amd run a new one.

best of luck 
anymore questions just mail me back
Scott Slater
70 Cutlass Supreme 
78 Cutlass Supreme  


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 13:38:05 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: The H*nd* *cc*rd lost!

> Yesterday I hit a H*nd* *cc*rd with my 77 L*nc*ln C*nt*n*n*l.
> It was the opponents fault. He will need a new rear end and
> some doors plus rear quarter...

Sounds like it was totaled. They don't have frames on those cars...

> How is this handled by insurance?

Did anyone get a ticket? (The correct answer is, "He did.") This 
helps sometimes. In any event, I would call up the other guy's
insurance company and arrange for their estimate. Get a couple;
i.e. wherever they send you, and perhaps a favorite body shop of
yours. I would suggest (based on past experience) that you see if
your body shop is interested in bidding a little lower than what
the insurance mill has quoted so that they can get the business.

> How will the opponents insurance handle this??? 

They'll itemize the estimate; maybe underquote, unfortunately.
Your car is old enough that they might not try to stick you with
fake replacement parts, but might quote for junkyard (used) parts.
Depending on what area of the country you're in and what car part
is in question, that might or might not be acceptable.

> Will they give me a check and I care for the repair? Will they
> send me to a body shop and let them do the work?

I think they'll most likely ask you for two estimates and pay you
whatever the lower one says, but bigger outfits have their own
shops and estimators. I would not suggest letting one of these
operations slap your car back together as if it was somebody's
banged-up '96 Sentra. You are probably not obligated to use their
repair places if you don't want to, although as I said, you may
have to do your own legwork in exchange, to provide them with valid
estimates that they'll reimburse you for.

> The car is worth approx. 3k, so I wonder if they will total it,

From your description it doesn't sound like 3K worth of damage.

> what happens then?

They give you a check for the value of your car in exchange for
your title; i.e. they get your car. Don't accept that; you can
always argue their first offer, and probably should. Good luck!

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 16:51:41 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: Tragedy that shouldn't have been

My condolences to your family.  

You are absolutely right, as a teenager seatbelts saved my life twice. 
I simply can't ride in a car without one now.
Brian.

Thomas P. Smith wrote:
> 
> Afternoon List,
> 
> Gonna have to sign off for about a week.  I have to go to Bangor, Maine
> to attend the funeral of my wife's niece, to whom she was very close.
> It appears she hit an embankment after sliding on the ice and was thrown
> from the car.  If only she was wearing her seatbelt she may still be
> alive...she was only 19.  I really hate to sound like everyone's dad
> here, but keep the seatbelts on guys, it's just not worth the risk.
> 
> --
> Thomas P. Smith
> 1971 Cutlass S 350
> smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 16:56:48 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Tragedy that shouldn't have been

Sorry about your wifes niece.Really sorry... :(  Hot Rod Harry from NJ

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 16:58:54 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Maaco (kinda long)

Rock Man wrote:
> 
> whole lot for a paint job. But, now that it is just about 2 years
> later, the paint is very brittle. One little dent and the paint is
> cracking. (found this out after my accident) There are spots by the
> tail lights where the paint is flaking off already! I wouldn't give
> the car another year before the whole paint job starts flaking off.
> Not to mention, there was A LOT of overspray onto windows, windshield
> trim, and the interior!

Yes, I can also attest to this. The Blue Taxi had a $99 Maaco paint job.
The paint was brittle, cracked flaked off. They even painted over
exisiting pinstripes on the car. You could see them under the paint.

- -- 
|============|
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
|=========================|
'73 Cutlass Supreme
'70 Cutlass 'S'
'75 Cutlass 'S'
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
|=================================================|

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 17:11:11 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: The H*nd* *cc*rd lost!

The opponents (he he) insurance company will probably want to see your car
or send you to a place to get an estimate to repair.  If the cost to repair
is more than the blue book value of the car, they'll "total" it.  Meaning
they'll give you a check for the value of the car.  If the cost for repair
is cheaper, they'll give you a check for the agreed upon estimate.  If you
don't mind driving the car in its new condition, you can just pocket the
cash.  most, if not all, insuarance companies make the check payable to you.
When my 86 got "totaled" after getting rearended by a big block f**d F*lc*n,
they paid off my loan.  Good credit!

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass (hibernating)
84 Calais ($200!)
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

- -----Original Message-----
How will the opponents insurance handle this???
Will they give me a check and I care for the repair? Will they send me to
a body shop and let them do the work? The car is worth approx. 3k, so I
wonder if they will total it, what happens then? Please write me about
your experiences / problems, and how you solved them!

Thanks for the input!
George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 17:42:45 -0500
From: Uncle Pete <pteubel@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Tragedy that shouldn't have been

My condolences to you and your family on your loss.  Sad indeed.

- - Uncle Pete
'51 98 (w/seat belts)
'82 98
'86 Ciera

At 04:51 PM 1/25/99 -0500, you wrote:
>> Afternoon List,
>> 
>> Gonna have to sign off for about a week.  I have to go to Bangor, Maine
>> to attend the funeral of my wife's niece, to whom she was very close.
>> It appears she hit an embankment after sliding on the ice and was thrown
>> from the car.  If only she was wearing her seatbelt she may still be
>> alive...she was only 19.  I really hate to sound like everyone's dad
>> here, but keep the seatbelts on guys, it's just not worth the risk.
>> 
>> --
>> Thomas P. Smith
>> 1971 Cutlass S 350
>> smithtp@ix.netcom.com
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 16:01:42 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Tragedy that shouldn't have been

I'm sorry to hear of your loss.  To lose one so young is sad.  To lose someone
so young who may have been saved by wearing a seatbelt is tragic.

"Thomas P. Smith" wrote:
> 
> Afternoon List,
> 
> Gonna have to sign off for about a week.  I have to go to Bangor, Maine
> to attend the funeral of my wife's niece, to whom she was very close.
> It appears she hit an embankment after sliding on the ice and was thrown
> from the car.  If only she was wearing her seatbelt she may still be
> alive...she was only 19.  I really hate to sound like everyone's dad
> here, but keep the seatbelts on guys, it's just not worth the risk.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 18:05:04 -0500 (EST)
From: Robert Yasczak <VJTD@grove.iup.edu>
Subject: Newer Toronada

My girlfriends roomate recently bought a late 80's or early 90's toro, I forgot
to ask her what year it was.  She is have a problem with it wanting to stall
when she slows down or pulls out a stop sign.  It also is very sluggish and it
then will take of like normal.  I tod her to try some fuel treatment for the
possibility of bad gas.  Any help would be appreciated since the warranty will
run out very soon if it is a major problem.	
			Robb Yasczak	vjtd@grove.iup.edu
			
			1969 Cutlass S conv.	
			1969 442
			1976 442
			1987 Cutlass Salon
			1998 Intrigue GLS

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 18:09:56 EST
From: R442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)

I don`t know how it would work for you but I have a three letter name.My
plates are ROBS 442.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 18:18:36 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Re: motor oil recommendations?

Dorian,
    I've had pretty good luck using Havoline to clean up a motor - seems to 
have
more detergent to it than Valvoline (my normal brand)...
Just my opinion...
Todd Daenzer
All the toys put away for the winter...

DYeager535@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 1/25/99 7:55:05 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> ab348@chebucto.ns.ca writes:
>
> << The thing about the auto trans using petroleum jelly to hold all the=20
>  balls in place is that ATF is something like 90% detergent which
>  is why they are always so clean inside.  The detergent will quickly
>  break down the vaseline where motor oil will not.
>
>  Mike B >>
>
>        Good point...most motor oils also contain detergent too now, right?
> What kind of percentage do they run, know by any chance? Are there any motor
> oils that tend to have more detergent that could help clean an engine out 
when
> it's running? (yes, I have run transmission fluid in a motor before hehe)
> Because now that I think about it, the lawnmower I have calls for non-
> detergent 30W....hmm....Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 18:38:28 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Need a solution to my Key problem

I though the reason the trunk was keyed differently was for valise <sp?>
parking - you would only give them your door/ignition key - that way if you
had anything in the trunk or glove box - they would not have access to it...
Possible?
Todd Daenzer
All the toys put away for the winter...

Rock Man wrote:

> Matt,
>
> I kind of had the same problem with my Olds. The key that he had for
> the doors would not work in the trunk. (side note....getting in a
> locked trunk SUCKS!!!) I finally got the trunk open and I took the
> whole lock assembly to a local locksmith. They did what they call
> 'keying the lock'. They measure all the tumblers inside and they make
> a key to work in there. Fairly cheap. I just couldn't afford (at the
> time) to have all the tumblers changed. I am going to do that soon so
> that I don't have to have a key for the trunk, one for the doors, and
> one for the ignition!
>
> Del
>
> ---Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu> wrote:
> >
> > Ok, so in the event that I buy The Unit, I find that it has come with
> > two ignition keys and no door keys. How can I go about getting keys
> for
> > the doors, especially if the original is gone? Would I need to go to a
> > dealer and have them run the VIN or something? Please help me, I'd
> like
> > to be able to lock and unlock the doors!
> > --
> > |============|
> > Matt Cremean
> > mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
> > |=========================|
> > '73 Cutlass Supreme
> > '70 Cutlass 'S'
> > '75 Cutlass 'S'
> > http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
> > |=================================================|
> >
>
> ==
> Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> rockman20@yahoo.com
> 1986 Honda Accord DX
> 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
> 1981 John Deer Snowmobile
> 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
> 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
> _________________________________________________________
> DO YOU YAHOO!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 18:38:12 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk

next time anyone is detailing their car, use vasoline on most the interrior
pirces.  it really makes that old dash shine plus it gives the interrior a
little better smell.  also use it on tires.  this makes the tires look new.

mikeytvb@aol.com
70 442 hc

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 18:27:33 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)

   Here are
some...442MUCH.....442MAN....442FAST.....4FOUR2....68FOR42....OLDSNUT........F
rom Hot Rod Harry <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">1973
Olds Cutlass 455 4speed</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 18:47:22 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Vaseline Talk

Check my website out...my rare Olds was stored in Vaseline!!!!!!
          Hot Rod Harry <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">
1973 Olds Cutlass 455 4speed</A> click on the blue 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 17:52:15 -0600
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
Subject: "88" Retired

Hi Folks,
           This has been discussed on the list previously, but now it's
"official".  Just heard on CBS news that GM has retired the Olds "88"
line, their longest-running domestic series.

A moment of silence, please.....




Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
Columbus, MS         1987 442

http://www.442.com/newman.html               1987 442
http://www.442.com/newmantape.html        Centennial Tape Info.  
 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 18:58:07 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)

The plate on the back of my father's Supreme is "455FEVR".  It's a '75 Supreme
w/455 with no air and manual brakes from the factory - kind of different for 
that
year... BTW it's the infamous "Sable" brown - If I ever get my hands on a 
scanner I
up load a picture...
Todd Daenzer
All the toys put away for the winter...

Cliff Simpson wrote:

> Well, you could get "68 Rag" but some might find that has negative vibes:)
> Since the 455 is not stock I would skip any reference to it.  There nothing
> wrong with it by why advertise that it's a 455?  Let people assume it's a 400
> until you kick their butt (on the strip).
>
> Olds442, 68 442, 442VERT, 442FAST4U (too many), 442QK4U, Lots of things you 
can
> do along that line.  Or since it's triple black and episode I is coming out 
how
> about DVADERS?  Nah.
>
> Does anyone have a list of what's already used by Olds owners?
>
> "C. Casteel" wrote:
> >
> > Well, it's now time to renew the license plate for the '68 442 conv. Since 
I
> > can actually drive it now, I thought it'd be nice to order a personalized
> > plate.
> >
> > Anyone have any good suggestions for this car? BTW, it's triple black and
> > now has a 455.
> >
> > TIA.
> --
>
> Cliff Simpson
> csimpson@ucalgary.ca
> '69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
> http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 19:01:28 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: "88" Retired

Doug Newman wrote:
> 
> Hi Folks,
>            This has been discussed on the list previously, but now it's
> "official".  Just heard on CBS news that GM has retired the Olds "88"
> line, their longest-running domestic series.

I just saw it too.  But I thought they dropped 88 nameplate a few years
ago for "LSS".  To be honest I was surprised they still had it.  
 
> A moment of silence, please.....

It's  sad.
 
Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 17:15:29 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Need suggestions for a personalized plate ('68 442 conv.)

Rebel1 wrote:
> 
> The plate on the back of my father's Supreme is "455FEVR".  It's a '75 
Supreme
> w/455 with no air and manual brakes from the factory - kind of different for 
that
> year... BTW it's the infamous "Sable" brown - If I ever get my hands on a 
scanner I
> up load a picture...

Please do!  I have a car that was originally Sable but was painted black before
I bought it.  I would like to see what the original colour looked like.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 26 Jan 1999 19:19:08 -0500
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Need a solution to my Key problem

Not sure about the chrome/stainless covers but I know you can buy the black
covers for about $1.50 for three at the dealer - I bought them for my '82...
Todd Daenzer
All the toys put away for the winter...


Padavano.Joe@orbital.com wrote:

> To rekey a lock you need several similar locks from a junkyard to
> donate parts. What you do is pull the chromed clip off the barrel of
> the lock you want to rekey,...
> _________
>
> This is the part that requires a little magic.  In all my attempts to
> non-destructively disassemble a GM door lock cylinder, I've never been able
> to get the stainless cover off the barrel without destroying it.  The
> factory stainless covers were apparently swaged on, whereas the service
> replacements come with tabs to allow them to be installed by normal mortals
> without the fancy factory tooling.  Unfortunately, I've only seen the
> service replacement covers as a part of the complete replacement lock
> package.  Does anyone know if these service covers are, in fact, available
> separately, and what the source is?
>
> Thanks
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 69 442
> 70 W-30

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1735
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