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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1723


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, January 18 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1723



Re: 3[9]4 in a 79??? + End Carbs?? + others and a short Unsub.
Re: Tips for headliner repair?
Re: 3[9]4 in a 79??? + End Carbs?? + others and a short Unsub.
Re: Impala SS Lowering Springs and Air Bags
Re: (no subject)
Re: driver side window off track
Clutch actuation assembly conversion
Re: 50 OLDS FOR SALE
68 W30 questions
Re: "gen" light on
Need info on 1970 Radio Delete
Re: Clutch actuation assembly conversion
Re: experiences with summit
Re: Th200-R4 in Chevy Truck LONG
Re: HEI Swap.  Real Life Benefits? {Water}
Textured chip protection paint
Summit
Re: Clutch actuation assembly conversion
Re: Summit
Re: 68 W30 questions
RE: sway bars
Re: 9000 rpm Aurora/Northstar
[none]
Re: Clutch actuation assembly conversion
Re: 9000 rpm Aurora/Northstar
Re: HEI Swap/things to look out for
Re: '71 Olds ID
Re: '71 Olds ID
Re: Impala SS Lowering Springs and Air Bags
Re: Sandblasting SSII wheels
Accident Pics
Re: Clutch actuation assembly conversion
Accident Pics
Accident Pics
Re: Clutch actuation assembly conversion
Rumble Rumble *Sputter* Rumble *BANG* Rumble....I think my baby is sick...
Re: Clutch actuation assembly conversion
Re: Textured chip protection paint
Recurving Distributor Chatter
differential noise
Re: 3[9]4 in a 79??? + End Carbs?? + others and a short Unsub.
Re: differential noise
Re: Clutch actuation assembly conversion
[none]
Re: Recurving Distributor Chatter (long)
Re: Clutch actuation assembly conversion
Re: differential noise
Re: Recurving Distributor Chatter
Re: '71 Olds ID
Re: End Carbs?? 
Re
Re: Accident Pics
Re: 88 Cutlass GT (long)
Re: 68 W30 questions
Re: Need info on 1970 Radio Delete
61 Starfire post
Re: Clutch actuation assembly conversion
Re: Accident Pics
Re: 

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 09:48:27 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: 3[9]4 in a 79??? + End Carbs?? + others and a short Unsub.

Sorry Mick, Karl's work week gets longer in cold inclement weather;

<< I own a 79 Cutlass 2dr.with a 260V8.I am interested in doing an engine
 swap,I have a 394 big block out of a 62 or 63 "Starfire". >>
 _________
 
 Sorry, Dave, but the 394 is the last iteration of Oldsmobile's first V-8
 family, a direct decendent of the 1949 Olds Rocket V-8.  Unfortunately, it
 has absolutely nothing in common with the 1965-up big block family - every
 single part with the exception of the distributor cap is different.
(Joe Padavano)>>

Have heard of 1964-on (1964 330 that is) engines in pre-1964 cars, but hear
from sources such as Mr. Chermac that putting a pre-1964 motor in a post 1965
car is much more difficult.

That is why my (FUTURE) project 371 motor is intended for a light car that has
the appropriate motor mounts; a 1961-63 F-85. Yes, a transmission adapter will
be required, but at the moment there are other problems.

Incidentally, it came up through the Unofficial Rochester Carburetor Web Site
that in end carburetors on tri-power setups like the J-2 and 1966 w-30 intake,
the end carbs are completely closed when the throttle valves are closed
whereas normal 2v carbs are partially open for idle considerations.

Is it possible to use normal carbs as end carbs? Can ordinary 2v's (late (non-
electric) and antique actually be used as end carbs; will they close
completely? If not, then they must be adjusted for idle, a monumental task
that Karl looks forward to.

 Karl is changing headquarters.

The sheer volume of Oldsmobile parts (and unrelated junk) that needs to be
removed [nevermind the carbs that still need to be assembled in order TO move
them] to the new location. Incidentally, their new home is actually pretty
nice, and will allow Karl more time in the morning for those who cannot seem
to Instant Message him during weekend evenings.
So it will be necessary for Karl to Digest only for a short while.

And I want to apologize to the digest readers and also to ADMIN for the
remonstration that never came.

Karl ~never~ meant to generate non-olds traffic with a single line in his
closing.
And never expected such.

While at the time of this writing [4:42 pm CST :-)} ] not all of the results
are in, we wanted to point out that Karl's opinions are based on the fact that
he did follow the Denver Broncos even before Super Bowl XXIV, and that he
continuously insisted (to the irritation of MANY others) that the Atlanta
Falcons were a good team this year mainly because of key free agent signings
in the off season [tracked through espn.sportzone.com] and because they have
three head coaches; Dan Reeves, Art Shell and Rich Brooks.

WE hope that in future any similar non-Oldsmobile traffic will be sent to;

KarlAunan@aol.com

Forgive the soliloquy.
Keep warm.

SOM

&KA
ICQ #20414415
http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html
http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/rage.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 08:47:14 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Tips for headliner repair?

I placed a piece of extra headliner behind my rip and glued it with Speed Sew
but it doesn't look that good.  The tension that it is under wants to pull it
apart so I may need to add some sewing to close the edges.

Anyone have better experiences?

> mbloomer wrote:
> 
> The thread on headliner replacement has gotten me thinking.
> My 68 has a tear about 6 inches long on it but otherwise is
> in excellent condition.  It looks as if I could use something like
> cardboard as a backing to glue the headliner together along
> the rip so there isn't a hole.  <snip> 
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 10:58:17 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 3[9]4 in a 79??? + End Carbs?? + others and a short Unsub.

That is why my (FUTURE) project 371 motor is intended for a light car that
has
the appropriate motor mounts; a 1961-63 F-85. Yes, a transmission adapter
will
be required, but at the moment there are other problems.
____________

Karl,

Uh, _are_ the motor mounts the same?  I wouldn't think so...  The 215 seems
to be somewhat of an orphan among GM motors as far as motor and trans
mounts are concerned.  Plus, you'd be replacing a motor that weighs 305 lbs
with one that weighs over twice that.

Here's one of my fantasy projects:  an Aurora motor in a 62-63 F-85.
Weight is about the same, GM motorsports sells a really cool eight-stack
EFI manifold for these motors, and you can get an aftermarket block that
will go to five liters displacement (all courtesy Oldsmobile's IMSA
program).  The beauty is that a 62-63 car is exempt from emissions testing
in any state.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 09:07:21 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Impala SS Lowering Springs and Air Bags

If you did put in the air bags then you could find a load leveler system at the
wreckers and adjust the air pressure "on the fly":)  Pump them up for clearance
and to compensate for having cargo (friends, beer, etc.) in the back.  When you
want to race the guy next to you at the lights drop the pressure and move move
weight over the rear tires.

I'm not sure how well this would really work but I've wanted to try it ever
since my niece had a Volare' with the 2 buttons for increasing and decreasing
the air pressure in the air shocks.  Her system even had the little pressure
gauge.

"Igor T. '81 DRB 455" wrote:
> <snip>
> 
> In addition, I found a set of Air Lift 1000 Load assist springs.  It looks
> like two simple air-bags that are supposed to fit into your coil spring to
> be used to firm-up the ride, control sway, etc.  I am also interested in
> using them for possible traction improvement.  What I would ultimately like
> to do is install this set of lowering springs into the car, and then for the
> rear I would like to add these air-bags in order to be able to lift the back
> a bit to firm-it up.  <snip>
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 11:08:50 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: (no subject)

In a message dated 1/16/99 5:22:40 PM EST, Juz440@aol.com writes:

<< Can anyone help.  I am looking for a YELLOW convertible top for a 67 442.
 Even a source for someone with just the canvass for the top would be great so
 I can have it made up. >>
 
Get it white and have it dyed.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 11:14:54 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: driver side window off track

In a message dated 1/16/99 10:41:22 PM EST, Padavano.Joe@orbital.com writes:

<< Assuming this is a 60s-70s vintage Olds, chances are that the window
 problem is caused by a broken window roller.  Several plastic rollers on
 the window ride in the tracks and these tend to get brittle and break with
 age.  Unfortunately I'm not aware of a source of new ones; used wrecking
 yard parts are the only choice. >>

This happened to me on my car. It turned out the bolt holding the plastic
roller rusted out. Got a whole new assembly sent to me from Billions &
Trillions from Oklahoma (found them in Hemmings) for $25. Easily installed.

Bruce 
75 Delta 88 conv. (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 11:44:10 -0500
From: "Gary Couse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Clutch actuation assembly conversion

Q-1;

Did GMC ever offer a variation of the Cheby El Cam*no? I'm awaiting a call
back from my local Olds/Cheby dealer about the complete Clutch actuation
setup for a G-El Cam*no.

Q-2;

In the event that GM no longer offers a majority of the required components,
any one have a source for setting up a hydraulic clutch system?

I'm looking to convert Quincy (86 G-body) to a 455 with a Richmond Gear 6
speed manual. What standard bell housing do I want to search for. I assume
an older A-body BB unit? Are there differences between the clutch bell crank
and all associated clutch components between the A and G body's?

Any other G-body based GM variants besides the Elky that came in standard?

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@CC-IROC-SS.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
Project Forum Delphi Site:
http://www.delphi.com/cc_iroc_ss

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit < GJC > at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 11:46:48 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: 50 OLDS FOR SALE

In a message dated 1/16/99 0:57:00 AM EST, jht@exo.com writes:

<< 1950 Oldsmobile Futuramic 4-door sedan 
  >>
Please excuse me for not answering privately, but the address given had fatal
errors. Can you tell me where in NJ you are located and how I can get in touch
with you?
TIA
Bruce

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 12:11:21 EST
From: GTOFan@aol.com
Subject: 68 W30 questions

)  According to info in some books I have all 68 W30's with 4speeds had Disc
brakes but manual not power.  I understand it was an option with an automatic?
Can some one verify that?  The car I am looking at has drums all the way
around and even looks like power brakes.  Can't understand why anyone would
change from discs to drums?

2) Is there any difference in the engine/block (in 68) of a standard 442 and
a W30? I believe the heads are different and the OAI or forced air intakes?  I
understand they are supposed to have heads with a "D" on them.  Is the rest of
the engine any different?  

Any other little items that wold help insure a W30 car would be greatly
appreciated!  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 12:49:11 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: "gen" light on

> List,
> 
>         The "gen" light came on in my 67'
> Cutlass........replaced voltage regulator
> and alternator......."gen" light still on...
> Volt gauge show 14.5 ..... have no amp
> gage........car starts and runs fine....
> any clues ?????
> 
> Tanks
> The General    :o{)}

Faulty ground from block to firewall.
It happened to me long time ago.
Check it out

Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454




- ----------
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 11:41:16 -0600
From: Mike Schlottman <mschlott@rsn.hp.com>
Subject: Need info on 1970 Radio Delete

I am looking for pictures or information on a radio delete option for a
1970 442.

I have a dash that was butchered by the previous owner to accommodate a DIN
style radio and need to cover the hole.  Does the original radio delete
panel cover both the rectangular hole and the round knob holes?  If so can
anyone provide me with a picture of what this panel looks like or better
yet provide me with the panel?

	mike

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 12:49:13 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch actuation assembly conversion

At 11:44 AM 1/18/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Q-1;
>
>Did GMC ever offer a variation of the Cheby El Cam*no? I'm awaiting a call
>back from my local Olds/Cheby dealer about the complete Clutch actuation
>setup for a G-El Cam*no.
>
>

yes. The GMC Sprint. I've only seen (or remember seeing) '71-'72 models.

Omega man
'74 Omega S

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 11:53:10 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: experiences with summit

>In addition, has anyone had good/bad experience dealing with Summit.  I
live
>in Canada so my shipping should be a little expensive and considering the
>value of the Canadian dollar, it should not be pleasant.  Thanks a lot.
>Igor


Never had any problems with Summit or known anybody that did.  I'm
sure there are some out there who have but I have yet to meet them.  Even
when ordering engine parts, if I got the wrong parts (.10 under instead of
.20 under bearings, my fault not thiers) they fixed me up with what I needed
quickly.  Another bonus is that thier prices are usually lower than what I
can
find local for most of the larger items.  Try checking out Jeg's also as
they
have similar inventory and prices and I have had the same good experiences
with them also.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 09:51:24 -0800
From: "John Young" <realtorjohn@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Th200-R4 in Chevy Truck LONG

I had 81 chevy with Olds diesel that spit out the crank going up the
mountain to Big Bear. Replaced it with a 350 olds out of a 75ish Cutless.
Almost a straight bolt in (had to change sending units and work on the
ignition setup as I remember) Straight bolt up to the TH 350 (lockup)
trans. Of course wherever a 350 goes so goes a 455? As i remember 6.2
started in the light trucks in 82. (you remember, the one with injectors
that went lean and burned pistons!)
realtorjohn@sprynet.com

- ----------
> From: DYeager535@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Th200-R4 in Chevy Truck LONG
> Date: Sunday, January 17, 1999 11:04 AM
> 
> In a message dated 1/17/99 8:43:11 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Bbymks4@aol.com
> writes:
> 
> <<      An Olds diesel truck ? What are those?
>       G.M.C.?    I guess that a 455 would bolt right in !!
>       just curious.....thanks from......Steve M.
>   >>
> 
>       Although I believe we may be getting off topic, since there isn't
much
> traffic...Yes, Gm trucks, (I assume Chev and GMC) before the advent of
the 6.2
> litre diesel, used the Olds 350..think it was up until mid 80's. Most you
will
> see have been converted to Olds gas diesels..fairly common when the
diesels
> quit working. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 12:15:21 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: HEI Swap.  Real Life Benefits? {Water}

Another nice side-benefit, 20 times more water resistant, really handy
when you want to wash under the hood and still drive away.  Cold winter
starts are better, + No resistor wire to burn out.  Have personally seen
20 year old units with 150+ thousand miles on in stock form, so
rock-solid last- foreverness is a real bonus here.

Eric Aksomitis
http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/biggreen.shtml <-- Only car left with
points, until Spring...

Thomas P. Smith wrote:
> Here are the things I am concerned about,  First and foremost, improved
> fuel economy.  The FAQ indicates some impressive gains after installing
> and recurving an HEI distributor.  Of course, improved MPG only makes
> sense, but what kind of results did ya'll have?  Second, improved low
> and mid range performance.  Finally, what problems were encountered?
> I've read the FAQ and it speaks of the washer at the oil pump coming
> loose and potential difficulty getting the old distributor out.  Anyone
> else have these problems?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 13:29:38 -0500
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@pa.net>
Subject: Textured chip protection paint

I am getting ready to paint the 81 Cutlass.
I have been considering putting the textured paint, chip
protection paint on the lower 8 inches of the body.

I know it was used in the 80's but i do not know who 
carries it now ... any ideas. 

Ken Swick
swickka@pa.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 10:26:30 PST
From: "Ray Costanzo" <ray_in_pa@hotmail.com>
Subject: Summit

I've ordered from Summit a few times, and have been happy every time.  
They are in the auto world what Crutchfield is in the Audio world.  
Yep, I'd say Summit's got their sh*t together.  

Master Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 Cutlass Calais
costanzo@netcarrier.com

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 13:29:00 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Clutch actuation assembly conversion

Did GMC ever offer a variation of the Cheby El Cam*no?
_________

Yep.  At one time called the Sprint, but I'm not sure what the G-body
version was called.

============

In the event that GM no longer offers a majority of the required
components,
any one have a source for setting up a hydraulic clutch system?
_________

Mondello offers one, (read: $$$), but I think you can get one from Summit
or Jegs as well.  Note that this is just the hydraulic throwout bearing and
accompanying master cylinder; you'll still need to come up with an
appropriate pedal assembly.

============

...What standard bell housing do I want to search for. I assume
an older A-body BB unit?
_________

Any B-O-P MT bellhousing or scattershield will work.

============

...Are there differences between the clutch bell crank
and all associated clutch components between the A and G body's?
_________

I have to assume that there are, though is isn't outside the realm of
possibility for you to adapt one.  Basically, using the A-body parts, you
can mock up the engine and trans in the frame (you'll want to have the
front sheetmetal off for this).  Use the A-body z-bar and pivot balls, and
simply fabricate an anchor point for the frame end of the z-bar using 1/4"
plate.  The pushrod from the z-bar to the clutch fork will be the A-body
part (assuming you use the A-body fork).  You'll need to fabricate a rod
from the clutch pedal to the z-bar.  Just make sure that the lever arm
ratio on your clutch pedal is approximately the same as on the A-body pedal
and you should have no problems.  You can fabricate a rod from round bar
stock and sphereical bearing rod ends (check Street Rodder magazine for
vendors).

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 13:38:26 -0500
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Summit

Yep. Ordered an item just after lunch on a friday. UPS man was on the porch
with it the very next day in the AM. 

Omega man
'74 Omega







At 10:26 AM 1/18/99 PST, you wrote:
>I've ordered from Summit a few times, and have been happy every time.  
>They are in the auto world what Crutchfield is in the Audio world.  
>Yep, I'd say Summit's got their sh*t together.  
>
>Master Costanzo
>87 409 Cutlass
>84 Cutlass Calais
>costanzo@netcarrier.com
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 13:38:14 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 68 W30 questions

1)  According to info in some books I have all 68 W30's with 4speeds had
Disc
brakes but manual not power.  I understand it was an option with an
automatic?
Can some one verify that?  The car I am looking at has drums all the way
around and even looks like power brakes.  Can't understand why anyone would
change from discs to drums?
_______

This is a well documented error in these restoration guides.  W-30s prior
to 1970 only got manual drums (as are on my own 68 W-30)  Olds did not feel
that the W-30 cam provided enough vacuum to operate power discs, and Olds
did not offer maunal discs until 1970 (my 70 W-30 has the factory maunal
discs).

============

2) Is there any difference in the engine/block (in 68) of a standard 442
and
a W30? I believe the heads are different and the OAI or forced air intakes?
I
understand they are supposed to have heads with a "D" on them.  Is the rest
of
the engine any different?
_______

The block itself is a normal G-block 400 casting used in all 442s in 68-69.
As you pointed out, the heads _are_ different, as is the camshaft, but the
rest of the motor is the same as all 68 442s.  Note that carb and
distrubutor calibrations are unique to the W-30.

============

Any other little items that wold help insure a W30 car would be greatly
appreciated!
_______

Obviously the red inner fenders, under bumper scoops, and hoses to the air
cleaner are required.  Lesser-known items are the fact that the windshield
washer tank will be on the passenger-side inner fender (all non-W-cars had
it on the driver's side) and the fact that the fender-to-core support
braces will be all metal (non-W-cars used metal with a rubber insulator).
Also, all W-30s got the bumblebee stripes on the front fender (which were
also optionally available on non-W-cars) and a posi rear (4.33 was the
standard rear end ratio!).  If the car is an AT, the original trans will
have the code "OW" on a tag on the passenger side of the trans case.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 12:45:41 -0600
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: sway bars

No problems, you need the bushings for the size bar you get, and make sure
you have the inserts in the rear trailing arms in the back.  

Mine has been running flawlessly for 4 years now.  Junkyard bars!  1.25in
front, 7/8"? rear.  From a 84 CSC on the rear.  I would use graphite
impregnated polyurethane bushings, and it should be fine.  

Mine will EASILY outcorner my 91 Bonneville with the HD bars.  Feels more
nimble, and the bars give you MUCH improved control over car.  

recommend for everyone!

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 12:47:16 -0600
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: Re: 9000 rpm Aurora/Northstar

>Is there anyway to get the Aurora's injection system to fit on say a
regular
>small block olds?
>

Cadillac built a port FI for the Olds V8 in the late 70's.  180 hp, over the
regular 170 350 rating.  Said the Q-Jet still made more power.  Need modern
tuning!


Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800
 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 13:04:14 -0600
From: "Michael L Johnson" <mljohns2@crnotes.collins.rockwell.com>
Subject: [none]

List,

     Does anyone have a suggestion for a hot running cam for a 1973 Olds
350 with #5 heads that have been reworked with stiffer springs. Other then
that, the rest of the motor is stock. It has a pre-egr 4 barrel manifold
and dual exhaust with HEI. Idle quality not a concern, just keep in mind
that the car will be driven in traffic on the street. Also, I know that in
1973 they started smogging the motors and so I was wondering if there were
a difference in the way the timing gears are marked for setup verses the
non smogged motors. I have heard that in some engines the manufacturer
would actually preadvance/retard the timing by actually moving the timing
gear "line up markers" around on the gear. Just looking to get the most out
of my Olds 350.


Mike J

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 14:20:03 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Clutch actuation assembly conversion

In a message dated 1/18/99 10:36:49 AM Pacific Standard Time,
Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM writes:

<< Did GMC ever offer a variation of the Cheby El Cam*no? >>

      Yes, called the Caballero(SP)  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 14:16:45 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 9000 rpm Aurora/Northstar

>Is there anyway to get the Aurora's injection system to fit on say a
regular
>small block olds?
>

Cadillac built a port FI for the Olds V8 in the late 70's.  180 hp, over
the
regular 170 350 rating.  Said the Q-Jet still made more power.  Need modern
tuning!
__________

Yep, this has been discussed here occasionally in the past.  Two problems
with this 70s vintage system are:  1)  It was an analog system, not
digital, and there were a number of problems with the computer.  2)  The
stock EFI intake was extremely restrictive and basically worthless.  You'd
be much better off using a good aftermarket 4bbl intake and a Projection
EFI unit.

As for the original question, the Aurora motor has absolutely nothing in
common with the earlier Olds V-8.  You'd need a custom-fabricated intake
and control electronics (ka-ching).  Oh, and larger injectors (ka-ching),
different fuel rails (ka-ching), higher flow throttle body (ka-ching),
different fuel pump (ka-ching), and a new fuel map (ka-ching).

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 14:25:50 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: HEI Swap/things to look out for

In a message dated 1/18/99 10:18:53 AM Pacific Standard Time,
big_olds@hotmail.com writes:

<< Another nice side-benefit, 20 times more water resistant, really handy
 when you want to wash under the hood and still drive away.  Cold winter
 starts are better, + No resistor wire to burn out.  Have personally seen
 20 year old units with 150+ thousand miles on in stock form, so
 rock-solid last- foreverness is a real bonus here.
 
 Eric Aksomitis >>

      List, after taking my distributor to the shop to have the lower bushing
made, I want to pass a word of warning along..maybe some of you know this, but
I just learned it. That lower bushing is the first thing to physically go in
these distributors. And it ruins the shaft. Cost me $35 to get the bushing
made and pressed in, but I still have to come up with a new shaft (computer
ones, unfortunately, have a slightly different set up on the top) that I
didn't know about until I pulled it apart completely. What a disappointment. I
will now be careful to check that on every distributor that I pull. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 11:25:55 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: '71 Olds ID

May have been it has been several years ago.  I think it was a 71 
though.

>
>Are you sure the car in question was not a '72.  The 455 was an RPO for
>the Cutlass in '72-'76.  
>
>Regards,
>Fred


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 14:32:39 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: '71 Olds ID

You may be right if it was a Supreme.  Joe P posted that the 455 was
available on the non SX Supreme in '71.  I had always thought this was not
the case until '72, but given that my area is really the full size cars, I
will happily defer to Joe.

Regards,
Fred

- -----Original Message-----
From: jason shreve <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, January 18, 1999 2:28 PM
Subject: Re: '71 Olds ID


>May have been it has been several years ago.  I think it was a 71
>though.
>
>>
>>Are you sure the car in question was not a '72.  The 455 was an RPO for
>>the Cutlass in '72-'76.
>>
>>Regards,
>>Fred
>
>
>______________________________________________________
>Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 12:31:02 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Impala SS Lowering Springs and Air Bags

Thanks for respones guys, but, will those springs fit.

>If you did put in the air bags then you could find a load leveler system at
the
>wreckers and adjust the air pressure "on the fly":)  Pump them up for
clearance
>and to compensate for having cargo (friends, beer, etc.) in the back.  When
you
>want to race the guy next to you at the lights drop the pressure and move
move
>weight over the rear tires.


Yup, this is what I want.  The guy that told me about this did it in a '83
Parisien.  He yarded the on-board compressor from a Cadillac and had a dash
switch and gauge.  This is what I would do.

I don't think that I have much to loose with this.  These bags are not that
expensive (depends in Canadian dollars) so I will be able to tell if it is
good or not before I get the on-board compressor.  If I was to get it, in
which cars should I look for it and where is it located.  Igor.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 13:07:27 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Sandblasting SSII wheels

Are these really SSII's?  From what I know (not much) the SSII's had stainless
steel inserts and rings.  You just unbolt the center cap, pull the stainless
off, and blast away with sand.  Epoxy primer, paint, and re-install the trim
(recommend polishing the stainless if you have the time).

Since you stated that this was a newer Delta I'm probably talking about an
entirely different rim.  The ones I'm talking about are shown at
http://www.flash.net/~texas442/wheels.html 

If they have chromed metal then you may be able to mask it and blast it with
beads or something mellower that sand.  Sorry, never had that type.

Mike Jones wrote:
> 
>         I have a set of SSII wheels on my Delta 88 (with big center caps) 
that are
> a little on the rusty side.  Is it possible to remove the rust and paint
> with a sandblaster?  I don't know if the media would damage the chrome
> finish on the rims.  Is there also a masking kit for the wheels, so I can
> re-paint them like the pontiac crowd does?
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 12:11:08 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Accident Pics

Hello everyone!

It's taken me some time now, but I finally got someone to scan in the
pics of my baby since the accident. For the ones not quite yet clued
into this here is a run-down. A while back I was involved in an
accident with my baby. A girl (pretty cute looking *LOL*) failed to
yield the right of way and pulled out in front of me. I plowed into
her doing about 30 MPH. I ended up about half way up her hood and my
baby was the worst looking of the 2 cars. (She was in a mid to late
80's Beretta.) And here is the aftermath of the accident.

http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan/Update.html




==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 14:25:23 -0500
From: David L Wyatt <WYATT_DAVID_L@LILLY.COM>
Subject: Re: Clutch actuation assembly conversion

GMC sold the Sprint until it became a Cabellero.  The Cabellero lasted as long
as El Camino did.  The Royal Knight was more or less the GMC version of the
SS.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 12:20:33 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Accident Pics

Hello everyone!

It's taken me some time now, but I finally got someone to scan in the
pics of my baby since the accident. For the ones not quite yet clued
into this here is a run-down. A while back I was involved in an
accident with my baby. A girl (pretty cute looking *LOL*) failed to
yield the right of way and pulled out in front of me. I plowed into
her doing about 30 MPH. I ended up about half way up her hood and my
baby was the worst looking of the 2 cars. (She was in a mid to late
80's Beretta.) And here is the aftermath of the accident.

http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan/Update.html




==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 12:22:27 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Accident Pics

Hello everyone!

It's taken me some time now, but I finally got someone to scan in the
pics of my baby since the accident. For the ones not quite yet clued
into this here is a run-down. A while back I was involved in an
accident with my baby. A girl (pretty cute looking *LOL*) failed to
yield the right of way and pulled out in front of me. I plowed into
her doing about 30 MPH. I ended up about half way up her hood and my
baby was the worst looking of the 2 cars. (She was in a mid to late
80's Beretta.) And here is the aftermath of the accident.

http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan/Update.html




==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 15:38:43 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: Clutch actuation assembly conversion

Gary Couse wrote:
> 
> Q-1;
> 
> Did GMC ever offer a variation of the Cheby El Cam*no? I'm awaiting a call
> back from my local Olds/Cheby dealer about the complete Clutch actuation
> setup for a G-El Cam*no.

Yes.  I've got the pedal setup from one.  (It might have been a chevy
camino, but I think it was GMC.)  It was a 3-speed floor shift with 6
cylinder engine.  


> Any other G-body based GM variants besides the Elky that came in standard?

Yes a few, very few.  Some of the earlier G-body cars got manual
trannies.  There was a 4-speed 84 calais in the trading post here about
a year ago.  I never looked at it, I've already got too many cars. 
There were a few hundred green 4-door 80 or 81 malibus that came with a
3-speed manual with 6 cylinder engines.  They were a special order by
the Iraqui government.  They canceled the order after the cars were
made, so a bunch of ugly green 3-speed Iraquibus hit the streets here in
the US and Canada.  They were basically taxicabs, their only option
being air conditioning.  I saw one in a local junkyard a couple of years
ago but it was crushed before I could get the parts off it.  

Greg Pruett 
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 15:45:05 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Rumble Rumble *Sputter* Rumble *BANG* Rumble....I think my baby is 
sick...

Ok, I started my 1966 Cutlass today for the first time in a few weeks. It
fired right up, and the choke took the 330 to about 1700rpms to warm up, then
went back down once it warmed up. I was looking in the truck for somthing,
listening to the health exaust tone, and then I heard a BANG coming out of the
engine bay (not the exhaust or the carb), what the hell was it? I got out my
dwel tach and timed it, that wasn't it, the carb is fine, it's got new gas in
it (92 octane :( ), I'm lost, anyone have any Ideas?
Kelly Erickson
1966 Cutlass
http://www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 15:54:19 EST
From: R4C442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Clutch actuation assembly conversion

If memory serves this old fart correctly, the GMC version of the El Camino was
called the "Sprint".
                                                                 Ron Forsee
                                                                 65
442-Meister

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 16:08:58 -0500
From: "jackkopf" <jackkopf@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Textured chip protection paint

  The textured finish sold to protect against rock dings was
sold as
RUSTY JONES. It was applied after the car was painted. Any
good
auto body/paint supply should have it on the shelf. The shop
painting
my 70' 98 is using it.

jk
- -----Original Message-----
From: Ken Swick <swickka@pa.net>
To: oldsmobile bb <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: January 18, 1999 1:27 PM
Subject: Textured chip protection paint


>I am getting ready to paint the 81 Cutlass.
>I have been considering putting the textured paint, chip
>protection paint on the lower 8 inches of the body.
>
>I know it was used in the 80's but i do not know who
>carries it now ... any ideas.
>
>Ken Swick
>swickka@pa.net
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 13:57:05 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Recurving Distributor Chatter

Hey all,
	After reading all the threads about swapping points for HEI, and
recurving I thought I'd ask a few questions.  I assume that recurving a
distributor involves the use of a "Sun" type of machine to ensure:
1)  that the unit has a certain amount of advance at a given RPM (This is
the reason for different springs, right?), Is this also done in combination
with an adjustable vacuum advance?
2)  also a maximum amount of advance at a given RPM. 

How is this achieved?

 I remember seeing this machine when I had my assembly balanced 6 years ago.

This is an area I am unfamiliar with and would appreciate some light anyone
could shed on the subject, as I will have to do it pretty soon on my new
motor.

- -Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 15:04:53 -0800
From: THOMAS_ZSCHERPEL@HP-PaloAlto-om13.om.hp.com
Subject: differential noise

     Hi,
     
     I have a 64' Cutlass with the original 330 engine and standard 10 bolt 
     diff.
     
     My problem: whenever I drive between 65 mph and 70 mph my differential 
     starts "singing". The sound then disappears at speeds over 70 mph. It 
     is louder when the drivetrain is under load, i.e. the sound is 
     basically not present when I coast at the same speeds.
     
     I am very certain that it is the diff and not the driveshaft or the 
     wheel bearings, etc, because when I changed my diff-oil to W140 and 
     added some "diff-anti-noise" lubricant my singing became less loud. 
     But it is still there. It can't be vibrations from engine or tranny 
     because I have no noise when I drive in the lower gear with the same 
     rpm. Btw, the rear wheel bearings are new, and a visual inspection off 
     the diff gears did not show any wear.
     
     Any suggestions ?
     
     Regards,
     -- Thomas Zscherpel

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 17:12:23 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: 3[9]4 in a 79??? + End Carbs?? + others and a short Unsub.

K:
Remove the choke plates and the fast idle junk, screw the idle adj. screws
in tight, use the center carb to adjust idle mixture & speed. Should work,
did it a long time ago with 6-2bbls on a Caddy engine in a 56 chev, they
all had idle screws, after two days and much drinking someone suggested
that and it worked!  Used the two center carbs on that set up. Make sure
throttle plates on end carbs seat completely closed.. They did offer a
manifold that had 8-2bbls on it, Christ, what a test,  missed that
experience thank God. Still with 6 you could hold a lit cigarette lighter
in back of the tailpipes and blow flames. Great mileage though! Gas was 30
cents a gal, still couldn't afford to drive the thing.
Master Lou
lbiggs@intertek.net
 
- ----------
> From: KarlAune@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 3[9]4 in a 79??? + End Carbs?? + others and a short Unsub.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 17:12:59 -0600
From: "Michael L Johnson" <mljohns2@crnotes.collins.rockwell.com>
Subject: Re: differential noise

Even though you inspected the rearend I would be willing to bet that the
backlash in your rearend needs to adjusted and set. Any competent rearend
or 4 wheel drive shop should be able to diagnosis this and tell you if in
fact it is your rearend.

Mike Johnson



     Hi,

     I have a 64' Cutlass with the original 330 engine and standard 10 bolt
     diff.

     My problem: whenever I drive between 65 mph and 70 mph my differential
     starts "singing". The sound then disappears at speeds over 70 mph. It
     is louder when the drivetrain is under load, i.e. the sound is
     basically not present when I coast at the same speeds.

     I am very certain that it is the diff and not the driveshaft or the
     wheel bearings, etc, because when I changed my diff-oil to W140 and
     added some "diff-anti-noise" lubricant my singing became less loud.
     But it is still there. It can't be vibrations from engine or tranny
     because I have no noise when I drive in the lower gear with the same
     rpm. Btw, the rear wheel bearings are new, and a visual inspection off
     the diff gears did not show any wear.

     Any suggestions ?

     Regards,
     -- Thomas Zscherpel

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 18:19:27 EST
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Subject: Re: Clutch actuation assembly conversion

Gary/Gene,

The GMC Sprint was made through the early 80's, at one point they (along with
the ElCo) were made in Mexico.

As for the hydraulic clutch setup, I use one on my race car from Coleman
Machine, it's set to actuate a modified Powerglide's second control arm (comes
out of where the shifter arm is) to bypass fluid pressure, like pushing in a
clutch.  Lots of racers around here use them this way.  The slave cylinder is
one that pulls the arm, so it can set behind the arm (or clutch arm, if you're
using a real manual) getting it out of that cramped area right by the starter.
There are also hydraulic throwout bearings that eliminate the need for
anything outside the bellhousing altogether.

Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas
KS7RACING@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 17:22:33 -0600
From: "Michael L Johnson" <mljohns2@crnotes.collins.rockwell.com>
Subject: [none]

List,

     Does anyone have a suggestion for a hot running cam for a 1973 Olds
350 with #5 heads that have been reworked with stiffer springs. Other then
that, the rest of the motor is stock. It has a pre-egr 4 barrel manifold
and dual exhaust with HEI. Idle quality not a concern, just keep in mind
that the car will be driven in traffic on the street. Also, I know that in
1973 they started smogging the motors and so I was wondering if there were
a difference in the way the timing gears are marked for setup verses the
non smogged motors. I have heard that in some engines the manufacturer
would actually preadvance/retard the timing by actually moving the timing
gear "line up markers" around on the gear. Just looking to get the most out
of my Olds 350.


Mike J

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 17:26:08 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Recurving Distributor Chatter (long)

>  I assume that recurving a
>distributor involves the use of a "Sun" type of machine to ensure:


I believe what your referring to is basically a "distributor dyno" to
accurately measure exact timing at a specific RPM.  This works
well for those that have access to such machines but the same
results can be gained without it.

>1)  that the unit has a certain amount of advance at a given RPM (This is
>the reason for different springs, right?), Is this also done in combination
>with an adjustable vacuum advance?
>2)  also a maximum amount of advance at a given RPM.
>
>How is this achieved?
>

The various combinations of springs and wieghts available will determine
the speed and rate of change of the mechanical advance.  This is not
a linear change (ie, a straight line if you graph it rpm by advance) but
has a more rapid rate of change at either the lower or upper part of the
RPM band.  This is your curve.  What is important is not to set the curve
to exact specs but to what the engine wants.  Because of this, you will
eventually have to play with it on the car to get it exact.  Variations in
your combination (carb, cam, CR, ignition, etc) will make the optimal
curve different for just about every engine.  One curve may work from
one engine to the next but still not be optimal.  The adjustable vacuum
advance comes after the distributor curve for fuel economy and drivability
reasons.  All you really need to curve a distributor is a fundamental
understanding of how the advance operates, an adjustible timing light,
an accurate tach, a curve kit with various springs and wieghts, and lots
of patience.  Most of the good curve kits come with instructions which
will set you in the right direction.  As long as you don't enter the
detonation
range just getting the curve close should be enough, since driving around
town you really won't notice a difference of a few degrees here or there.
If you were seriously drag racing however, you might find a few tenths.
Hope this helps and wasn't too confusing.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 17:30:14 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Clutch actuation assembly conversion

Ron:
Had one, was called "Conquistador". Spelling may suck, my friend still has
it, V6, auto, air, ps,pb, maroon. Pretty truck, a pooch though!
Master Lou
lbiggs@intertek.net
- ---------
> From: R4C442@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Clutch actuation assembly conversion
> Date: Monday, January 18, 1999 2:54 PM
> 
> If memory serves this old fart correctly, the GMC version of the El
Camino was
> called the "Sprint".
>                                                                  Ron
Forsee
>                                                                  65
> 442-Meister

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 17:36:55 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: differential noise

Thomas:
Sounds like ring and pinion noise, can readjust but wear pattern sets in
and you need new parts, check preload on pinion first.
Master Lou
lbiggs@intertek.net


- ----------
> From: THOMAS_ZSCHERPEL@HP-PaloAlto-om13.om.hp.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Cc: ZSCHERPEL_THOMAS/HP-PaloAlto_om13@boi170.boi.hp.com
> Subject: differential noise
> Date: Monday, January 18, 1999 5:04 PM
> 
>      Hi,
>      
>      I have a 64' Cutlass with the original 330 engine and standard 10
bolt 
>      diff.
>      
>      My problem: whenever I drive between 65 mph and 70 mph my
differential 
>      starts "singing". The sound then disappears at speeds over 70 mph.
It 
>      is louder when the drivetrain is under load, i.e. the sound is 
>      basically not present when I coast at the same speeds.
>      
>      I am very certain that it is the diff and not the driveshaft or the 
>      wheel bearings, etc, because when I changed my diff-oil to W140 and 
>      added some "diff-anti-noise" lubricant my singing became less loud. 
>      But it is still there. It can't be vibrations from engine or tranny 
>      because I have no noise when I drive in the lower gear with the same

>      rpm. Btw, the rear wheel bearings are new, and a visual inspection
off 
>      the diff gears did not show any wear.
>      
>      Any suggestions ?
>      
>      Regards,
>      -- Thomas Zscherpel

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 19:40:40 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Recurving Distributor Chatter

A friend has a Sun distributor machine he picked up at an auction. Dates
from the 1950s but everything works and it has all the documentation. It
is quite a thing to see. It has a vacuum pump for the vac advance it
drives the distributor with an electric motor. It has all sorts of dials
to measure different parameters as it spins the distributor. I can tell
you from watching it that you wouldn't want one of those advance weights
to ever come loose at speed... it would be quite a violent collision with
whatever it hit. A distributor really spins a lot! 

He did mine last year. With a service manual for the specs you want it
actually is pretty straightforward to check. With the machine you can see
how the different weights will affect how much advance kicks in at a given
RPM. Similarly with the vac advance. Also you can see how any variance or
wobble in the bushings affects advance or dwell. Neat. I wonder how many
of these machines are still in shops?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 18:39:33 -0500
From: "Mike Rothe." <hurstolds@xtalwind.net>
Subject: Re: '71 Olds ID

> >>From what I can gather, only TWO kinds of A-body Oldses had 455s.  That
> >>would be the 442 and the Cutlass SX, which is a supreme designation.
> ___________
> 
> I too thought you could get a 455 in a regular Cutlass in 71, but
> apparently this was not the case. 

To clarify, all I really meant to say from the above statement was that
the only standard 455 in 71 A-body Cutlai was the 442/SX.  The 455 was
not available on the HC Cutlass.  I cannot verify for certain you
couldn't get the 455 in a regular Supreme, but I've never seen one, and
all I have ever known is the 4 bbl 455 in the SX.  I believe this was
the L32 engine in the SX, but I could be wrong.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 17:40:46 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: End Carbs?? 

Ah, remends me of a similar humbling experience with a V12 jag with
6 weber sidedrafts.  Quite humbling.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/


>did it a long time ago with 6-2bbls on a Caddy engine in a 56 chev, they
>all had idle screws, after two days and much drinking someone suggested
>that and it worked!  Used the two center carbs on that set up. They did
offer a
>manifold that had 8-2bbls on it, Christ, what a test,  missed that
>experience thank God. Still with 6 you could hold a lit cigarette lighter
>in back of the tailpipes and blow flames. Great mileage though! Gas was 30
>cents a gal, still couldn't afford to drive the thing.
>Master Lou
>lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 19:03:41 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: Re

Igor,
 One tube on each side will need to be cut to miss the lower control arm 
bushing area. The best way is to cut out what you need to, and carefully fit a 
section of a mandrel bent tubing to clear, and weld the butt joints. The 
easiest way is to use an 18 ga tubing bend that's .125" bigger tubing than the 
header tubing size. This way you can slide it over the smaller tubing to make 
the welding easier. I doubt the wee bit of turbulence from the mismatch will 
hurt that much.
 The tubes don't need to be moved far, so it's not real tough.

 The two trucks that I swapped the Olds' into were 8 ft bed trucks. One was a 
1/2 ton- 4280lb. One was a 3/4 ton- 4680 lbs. The 3/4 ton was a 73 455 [W-30 
type] 4 speed motor just like the one in member Harry's 73 Cutlass "S". It ran 
REAL well, with 4.11 gears, but spun a bearing after a year of abuse. The 1/2 
ton was a '67 425 that took a heck of a beating, with 4.11 gears also. I added 
3" to the oil pan on that one, which I think helped it live.
 I used a switch pitch convertor in both.

 Be aware most automatic Chev pickups have 3.07 gears std.

Dave Brode
64 Cutlass


> T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
> Subject: Re: Olds powered Chevy truck
>
> I haven't found a header that fits. I've used 68 up Cutlass 455 headers, but
> i had to
> >modify a tube on each side. The won't clear the lower A arm mount. You can
> cut up a "U bend to
> >help with this easy mod.
>
> How much modifing of the headers and how did you do it?
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 19:19:45 -0500
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Accident Pics

 I ended up about half way up her hood and my
>baby was the worst looking of the 2 cars. (She was in a mid to late
>80's Beretta.) And here is the aftermath of the accident.

>Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan

OUCH, I wish I hadn't looked.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie, Melbourne, FL
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 20:00:53 -0500
From: "Bill Reilly" <wjreilly@erols.com>
Subject: Re: 88 Cutlass GT (long)

>What about a Hurst shifter?
>
>Ray Costanzo
>87 409 Cutlass (hybernating)
>84 Calais ($200!)
>costanzo@netcarrier.com
>http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo
>

Nope, stictly an appearance option.

Bill Reilly
mailto: wjreilly@erols.com
Web Page: (Not yet)

My Garage:
'83 Cutlass Ciera 
'84 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 20:08:06 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: 68 W30 questions

> Any other little items that wold help insure a W30 car would be greatly
> appreciated!
> _______
> 
a posi rear (4.33 was the
> standard rear end ratio!).  
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
> 
>
Joe you seem quite knowledgable about your 68.
I have a question.  
I had a 68 sports coupe w-30 bench seat column shift. 1 of 69 made.  The
car came with a 3.42 open rear end.  You state that posi was standard, does
this mean that open rears were not available?
Saddly I was force to part the car and scrap it, after advertising the car
forsale for 2 years and for a mere $2000.. At least the parts lived on. and
tags.


 
Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454




- --------- -

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 20:10:00 -0500
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Need info on 1970 Radio Delete

> From: Mike Schlottman <mschlott@rsn.hp.com>
If so can
> anyone provide me with a picture of what this panel looks like or better
> yet provide me with the panel?
> 
> 	mike
>

I have one for 68 - 69 I could e you a picture in a week or so
It will give you an idea of what to look for



Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454




- ----------
 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 20:12:16 -0800
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: 61 Starfire post

Someone posted about a '61 Starfire for sale about a week ago.  I meant to
save the site, but it fell prey to a lurking delete fiend when I wasn't
paying rapt attention.  Would anyone with knowledge of this red '61 please
post with the url?  TIA, Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 19:35:22 -0600
From: Paul and Heather Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: Re: Clutch actuation assembly conversion

At 01:29 PM 1/18/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Did GMC ever offer a variation of the Cheby El Cam*no?
>_________
>
>Yep.  At one time called the Sprint, but I'm not sure what the G-body
>version was called.
>
>============
>
>In the event that GM no longer offers a majority of the required
>components,
>any one have a source for setting up a hydraulic clutch system?
>_________
>
>Mondello offers one, (read: $$$), but I think you can get one from Summit
>or Jegs as well.  Note that this is just the hydraulic throwout bearing and
>accompanying master cylinder; you'll still need to come up with an
>appropriate pedal assembly.
>
Actually, PAW sells a McLeod setup that looks exactly the same as
Mondello's(big surprise there) for a Muncie or Saginaw as well as others
for around $270 according to their 1997 catalog.


 Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 20:52:10 EST
From: Moparrp@aol.com
Subject: Re: Accident Pics

rockman, sorry to see your baby in such a shape, but am glad to here she's on
the way to recovery. my 66 cutlass got tailended by a 89 beretta about 4 years
ago and it got my rr quarter and bumper. she's now in storage since my
daughter took it out racing on hwy 367 in st louis and ran both the oil and
water out of it. my 66 has the 330 4bbl,ps pb pw pseat tilt cruise and ac,2dr
hdtp in aztec bronze. i am just now starting to look for parts to bring this
one back to life, i gave her to my wife to drive in 90 and she never let me
down. even took several trips to duquoin street nats. good luck.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 20:58:01 -0500
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: 

From: Michael L Johnson <mljohns2@crnotes.collins.rockwell.com>
>List,
>
>     Does anyone have a suggestion for a hot running cam for a 1973 Olds
>350 with #5 heads that have been reworked with stiffer springs.

I'm using the Edelbrock Performer RPM, which I like. Good mid to high range
power. Need 3.23 gears minimum and a higher stall converter would be nice
too. Others, (Lunatti, Crane, Comp Cams etc.) make cams for Olds of various
specs. Best to call them and let them know what performance level you're
looking for and then follow their advice. All of them are reputable
companies.
If you are unsure of the timing marks, buy or make a cam degree kit and set
it where you want it. If you're replacing the cam though, would advise you
get a good Aftermarket timing gear set. The marks on them should be fairly
accurate.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie, Melbourne, FL
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/sprynet/mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1723
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