Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1732


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, January 25 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1732



fiberglass for 68's
Re: Confused parts clerks
Re: Confused parts clerks
Re: Exhaust System Suggestions
Re: blast cabinet
Re: Q-jet
Alloy wheels for a Toronado?
Re: MAG WHEEL suggestions
Re: MAG WHEEL suggestions
Re: MAG WHEEL suggestions
Another Olds web page
UNBOUNCE: Parts for sale...desparate!
Re: 1966 Cutlass Holiday....
Re: fiberglass for 68's
Water Injection was: 215 Turbo Info
Re: Olds in Sermon (Vinny)
Re: Air Shocks
Re: stealing was hei
Re: Air Shocks  hi
Re: Water Injection was: 215 Turbo Info
Re: Old car tires
Re: fiberglass for 68's
Re: Confused parts clerks
Quick ratio steering
motor oil recommendations?
Re: Air Shocks
FS: 1972 Cutlass S & 1985 Toronado
RE: Q-jet
Re: motor oil recommendations?
Cowl Tag Repair, reconstruction
Re: Another Olds web page
Re: Air Shocks
FS: '74 H/O
Re: stealing was hei
AXLE CODES
Address?????
Re: Air Shocks
RE: Mag wheel suggestions
A-body rear coil spring retensin
Re: Malfunction codes
Re: A-body rear coil spring retensin
Re: motor oil recommendations?
Different Strokes on a 350 OLDS????
More coil spring retension
Re: Different Strokes on a 350 OLDS????
Re: A-body rear coil spring retensin
Re: More coil spring retension
Olds on MCC this coming weekend
Re: Different Strokes on a 350 OLDS????
Re: Address?????
Re: Different Strokes on a 350 OLDS????
Re: motor oil recommendations?
Igor's Links....My name my page, but no link?!?
Re: Water Injection was: 215 Turbo Info
Re: motor oil recommendations?
Re: Water Injection was: 215 Turbo Info
RE: Exhaust System Suggestions
Re: motor oil recommendations?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 01:43:21 EST
From: Stakin@aol.com
Subject: fiberglass for 68's

Does anybody know of anyone making fiberglass parts like hoods, fenders, and
bumpers for 68 cutlass/442's ?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 00:50:58 -0600 (CST)
From: Kimberly Ann Wandrey <kaw0006@jove.acs.unt.edu>
Subject: Re: Confused parts clerks

I had a similiar experience and nearly knocked an Auto Zone idiot into the
Twighlight Zone when he kept insisisting that I had a 350 Chevy in Junior
because they only put 350 Ch^vys in Oldsmobiles in the '70's. I dragged
him out to Junior and opened the hood and asked him to explain why the
intake said "Oldsmobile" on it. Duh!!!

Kim & Junior ('72 Cutlass Supreme) who was completely insulted....;) 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 01:53:11 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: Confused parts clerks

dont worry, they argued that my 330 wasnt a 330, they are retarded, im gunna
kill them

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 06:52:58 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Exhaust System Suggestions

>I will replace the exhaust system on my '72
>Cutlass Supreme this spring.  I've got a 455, and stock dual exhaust
 [snip]
>size, fit, and sounding pipes/mufflers.  Has anybody found these in
>Stainless Steel?  If not,
>anybody who has purchased a system from Year One, Brothers, etc- I would

I bought the aluminized stock setup w/trumpets from Fusick's, and I'm very
happy with the fit and the sound (it's got the proper crimps and bends to
clear the left-front A-arm mount, where things get tight). They offer a
stainless version as well for about 2x more. 

They are actually bent up and drop-shipped from somewhere else, but I
couldn't discern where that might be from; other resto places might be
selling the same pieces from the same bender.

Bob Barry
'70 SX

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 22:27:53 -0800 (PST)
From: jalkara <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: Re: blast cabinet

there is a company called tip, that will sell you the hardware and plans
to build your own cabinet for about 200.
i have about 350 in mine total, with the shop vac, 1/2" water trap and
regulator and misc scrap iron pieces, the work area is 30' wide, 30" tall
and 60" long, will take a manifold and valve covers and lots of small
parts all at once, or a hd swing arm frame, or most anything i need done.
47rocket98

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 06:57:54 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Q-jet

>I have a problem with my Q-jet,at idle it runs very rich. Even with the 
 [snip]
>the plugs out if you do not clear it out.The carb is on a 455 with a .475 lift
>.308 duration cam on a torker intake with open plenum .The ignition is an 

With that intake/cam setup, one thing you might want to check out is the
vacuum at idle. If you're not generating enough vacuum in the plenum to hold
the power valve piston in the carb down, then you'll be drawing fuel through
the power circuit at idle. The solution is either a weaker power valve
spring (if you've got a Q-jet) or a weaker power valve, or what the factory
did with the '70 2-plane intake 455 with that 308' cam- remove the power
valve piston/main metering rods, plug that hole, and run 2-bbl jets in the
front. 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 01:28:14 -0600
From: Edmund Terry Fiene <kawtu2@flash.net>
Subject: Alloy wheels for a Toronado?

Does anyone know of a source for 8" X 15" (or wider) alloy wheels for a
'68 Toronado?
Terry
mailto:kawtu2@flash.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 00:42:45 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: MAG WHEEL suggestions

I agree with the ROCKET simbols.

>Coker is making repro's of SSII's
> http://www.coker.com/wheels/wheelrim.html ) and they do offer the trim
>rings and center caps. Never called for a price though, has anybody else?


I like the SSIIs, but they don't offer 5x5" bolt pattern I need and I am
sure that they are not cheap.  Do like them, though.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 01:01:59 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: MAG WHEEL suggestions

>Igor,
>I know you said you were setting up a Web page. Do you have an URL I can
add
>to my Links page?
>Getting anxious to see your infamous 455 Delta.

Well I am working on the page but I have not had much time at all (this is
just a start, sucks really).
So, you can look at it and you can add it as a link but I will warn you that
there is not much to see and that the Delta now looks NOTHING like on those
pics.  Make sure to take a look at the "More Delta Pics" link just above and
left of the last picture on my Delta page.  I will notify everyone when I am
done.  The interior is currently out of the car and waiting for my dad to
re-do it.  (will be a while, but can't wait).  I will have it done in dark
gray and the seats maybe in two-tone gray.  The dash is full of gauges now
and if I add any more, I will have to change stuff around because it is
getting crowded.  Let me know what you think.  Igor.  Here is the link:

http://members.home.net/igor455/olds.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 01:08:00 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: MAG WHEEL suggestions

>Well I am working on the page but I have not had much time at all (this is
>just a start, sucks really).
>So, you can look at it and you can add it as a link but I will warn you
that
>there is not much to see and that the Delta now looks NOTHING like on those
>pics.  Make sure to take a look at the "More Delta Pics" link just above
and
>left of the last picture on my Delta page.  I will notify everyone when I
am
>done.  The interior is currently out of the car and waiting for my dad to
>re-do it.  (will be a while, but can't wait).  I will have it done in dark
>gray and the seats maybe in two-tone gray.  The dash is full of gauges now
>and if I add any more, I will have to change stuff around because it is
>getting crowded.  Let me know what you think.  Igor.  Here is the link:
>
>http://members.home.net/igor455/olds.htm
>


And also, don't mind the spelling and the terrible pics quality.  I have had
"zero" time to work on this thing plus it is my first web page slapped
together in five minutes.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 05:38:39 -0500
From: Andy Mikesell <andymikesell@mediaone.net>
Subject: Another Olds web page

Me too! Me too!

I too have made a hack at putting my Olds up on the web.  It
can be seen at
http://people.ne.mediaone.net/andymikesell/OldsDelta88.htm.
Let me know what you think!

- - Andy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 06:40:31 -0400 (AST)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Parts for sale...desparate!

Not on the list, respond to schnehe@juno.com if interested.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Subject: Parts for sale...desparate!
From:	Mark A Janda <schnehe@juno.com>

List:

I have a few parts laying around that I need to get rid of.  They are all
off of a 67 Delta 88 425 2Bbl w/ 14" wheels.  I have 4 original hub caps,
straight with faded paint.  I have an intake manifold with recently
professionaly rebuilt carburetor.  I have an air cleaner assembly that is
orange and has "super high compression" among other things written on it.
 The air cleaner assembly is also in pretty straight condition, but the
silver trim piece in the midde is missing some paint on the words and the
orange body has had some paint flake off.  All these items will be sold
pretty cheap (barely over shipping).  If I do not sell them, I will most
likely throw them away or find a worthy cause.

If you are interested or need more info, e-mail me directly at
schnehe@juno.com, as I am not on the list anymore.

Mark J.
Phoenix area

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 05:04:51 -0600 (CST)
From: blue442@webtv.net
Subject: Re: 1966 Cutlass Holiday....

- --WebTV-Mail-452742171-1936
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Killer page Kelly, I liked the 68 article in particular. Was in J C
Penney's this afternoon.  Must've missed the racing tire dept. (-:

Jeff Carter
blue442@webtv.net


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From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Message-ID: <9de48a13.36ac0d0a@aol.com>
Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 01:19:54 EST
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
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Subject: Re: 1966 Cutlass Holiday....
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Also, the webpage is www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z

- --WebTV-Mail-452742171-1936--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 06:59:56 -0500
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Re: fiberglass for 68's

try this company   http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/   phone # 905-857-6345
they seem to have just about everything ,ordered bumpers for my 68 ,but have 
not
arrived yet ,so can not tell you about the quality.                     butch
68  442  post

Stakin@aol.com wrote:

> Does anybody know of anyone making fiberglass parts like hoods, fenders, and
> bumpers for 68 cutlass/442's ?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 06:56:37 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Water Injection was: 215 Turbo Info

> On the hand of the water injection systems...
> _________

In addition to knock reduction, I've read all sorts of claims on some of the
more "imaginative" websites dealing with fuel economy that these water
injection systems eliminate knock, significantly boost fuel economy, increase
power, reduce emissions...seek out new life and new civilizations... Anyway,
any truth to these claims or is it just snake oil?  Personally, I feel a bit
squeemish about squirting water into my engine.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 08:23:07 EST
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds in Sermon (Vinny)

Vinny that plate would fit you :-} LOL Chris

CHRIS SOMMERVILLE
69 442SC
84 H/O
HURSTOLDZ@aol.com writes:
 I happen to be a Pastor who loves Oldsmobiles.  People want me to get a
vanity
 plate for my 68 Hurst/Olds,  Holy-Ho 
 
 Vinny
 62 Olds Starfire
 68 Hurst/Olds >>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 08:28:09 EST
From: OldsClub@aol.com
Subject: Re: Air Shocks

Igor,
	Air shocks need periodic filling and you need to have separate lines 
for each
shock. However I must tell you that raising the vehicle for bigger tires is
not what air shocks are designed for. I just through mine out and put on
Gabriel VSTs and HO specialties' springs and it's a better set up. When I did
have the air shocks the ride was good but the car was to high in the air. 
	I think you said that you already bought them so put them on with 
separate
lines and see how they work for you. It might be just what you want but I
don't think it will be a permanent fix. Sooner or later you'll over come the
shocks ability to keep the car in the air and my cause damage to the tires or
body. Try to massage the body and wheel wells for clearance so that you won't
have to rely on the air shocks to prevent rubbing. 

Regards,
Jim
68' 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 08:35:05 EST
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: stealing was hei

In a message dated 1/22/99 8:21:37 PM EST, GT5726@aol.com writes:

<<  Just like the 442 side scoops that I bought for my 65
 Cutlass...they were on a car that HAD BEEN CRUSHED! I bought them by bringing
 the owner a hamburger and smoozing him into letting me climb the pile and pry
 them of the car just days before they were going to haul the car off. >>

Yes, and the operative word in that statement is BOUGHT!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 08:54:50 EST
From: OldsGuyGA@aol.com
Subject: Re: Air Shocks  hi

olds guy here..thought it was you..

you were having trouble with your car one night and was ready to  dump it..


jeff

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 09:25:26 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Water Injection was: 215 Turbo Info

In addition to knock reduction, I've read all sorts of claims on some of
the
more "imaginative" websites dealing with fuel economy that these water
injection systems eliminate knock, significantly boost fuel economy,
increase
power, reduce emissions...seek out new life and new civilizations...
Anyway,
any truth to these claims or is it just snake oil?  Personally, I feel a
bit
squeemish about squirting water into my engine.
_________

Well...  the only other _documented_ benefit of using water injection that
I've seen is that the water definitely helps reduce the amount of carbon
buildup in the intake tract, on the valves, and in the combustion chamber.
Does this carbon reduction lead to the other benefits claimed?  Possibly,
by some microscopic improvement in intake flow due to the reduced carbon
leading to reduced airflow restriction.  Could you measure such an
improvement?  Doubtful.  Now, if the use of the water injection allows you
to run more ignition timing, and that in turn improves part throttle
performance and economy, well, maybe that's a more believable claim.  Of
course, how many people who install one of these systems then goes through
and optimizes the distributor advance curve to take advantage of the water
injection...  Oh, the ad didn't mention that?

As for squirting water into the engine, keep in mind that it turns to vapor
almost immediately due to the engine heat.  In fact, it's this vaporization
that cools the intake mixture and provides much of the anti-knock benefits.
The amount of water actually injested is minor compared to the total
airflow, and probably not too much greater than what the engine sucks down
on a cold, rainy day (especially with an under-bumper O.A.I. setup).

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 09:31:36 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Old car tires

What is the
exact relation between the letter and number on the old
bias ply tires as in a F70 or N70?  From what I gather the
higher the letter the wider but I'm rather confused.
________

The higher the letter, the larger the tire is in diameter.  Note that this
is overall tire diameter, not rim diameter.  The number is the ratio of
section height to section width, which is the same 70% as in a modern
225-70/15, for example.  Since the ratio of section height to width in this
example is fixed at 70%, an N70 tire would be taller than an F70 tire, with
the result that the section width would be proportionally wider (for a
given rim diameter).  This is analagous to saying that a 245-60/14 is wider
than a 205-60/14, for the same reason, however in the case of modern tire
terminology, it's the section width that you read out directly (the 245,
for example), an since the ratio is fixed (60% in this example), you can
infer that the 245-60/14 is a taller tire than the 205.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 09:37:42 EST
From: Stakin@aol.com
Subject: Re: fiberglass for 68's

Thanks Ill give them a try. Let me know what you think when they arrive
Joe

, you write:

<< try this company   http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/   phone #
905-857-6345
 they seem to have just about everything ,ordered bumpers for my 68 ,but have
not
 arrived yet ,so can not tell you about the quality.                     butch
 68  442  post
  >>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 07:42:55 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Confused parts clerks

Or you tell them you need a part for a 442 and they say "Oh, well
that's a Cutlass" and then they tell you that the book says the 400
didn't come in the Cutlass.

Yeah, that's one of the reasons it's not a Cutlass!

Gutlass66@aol.com wrote:
> 
> dont worry, they argued that my 330 wasnt a 330, they are retarded, im gunna
> kill them

- -- 
Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 09:49:38 -0500
From: "Eckart, Douglas A. SFC" <eckartd@emh.gordon.army.mil>
Subject: Quick ratio steering

Who is the list member with the turbo T/A talking about a 12 to 1 for a ws6
pontiac and 14 to 1 for a regular T/A.  How do you identify these?  What
would be necessary to install one of these into an early a-body?
thanks for your time!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 08:51:29 -0600 (CST)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: motor oil recommendations?

Hi Guys 

Slowly but surely getting to the point where I can turn the key:

* What kind of Motor Oil would you recommend for my new rebuilt 350 
  (stock), .60 over, in the warm climate of Louisiana? 
* When is the first oil change due on a new rebuild?

Still nobody replied to my earlier question:

* Will a carb spacer get some more response in the lower rpm range when 
  used on a single plane intake manifold?

Thanks for your input! Regards, 

George
- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 07:10:54 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Air Shocks

Keep me posted on when, where, why, how.....and hopefully my Cutlass
will be done by then! And, hopefully work would cooperate and give me
some time off!




- ---Gutlass66@aol.com wrote:
>
> Sounds good, We need many Cutli and 442, it will be a good thing,
and you
> vistacruisers and big olds's, you come too, we need to take this
thing over,
> show some real TORQUE 
> 

==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 10:17:01 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: FS: 1972 Cutlass S & 1985 Toronado

From the newsgroups...

If interested, e-mail the people directly, NOT TO ME OR THE LIST.




>Subject: 1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass 1972 Olds Cutlass, 90k miles,
>Rocket 350, 2dr hrd top, pearl
>
>1972 Oldsmobile Cutlass S for sale.  Two-door hardtop
>has Rocket 350 engine, 2 bbl. carb., PS, PB, AT, AC
>converted to non-freon, new "coke bottle wheels +
>original Olds colored wheels, perfect new white pearl
>paint, new Olds style radio with cassette + original
>radio.  Blue vinyl roof (perfect) and blue interior,
>needs new front seat cover. Beautiful car for
>$5000.00 or best reasonable offer.
>
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------
>  This article was posted at the request of the author
>  by EPage, http://ep.com/
>  The URL for this article is:
>                http://ep.com/ep/mi.html?ad=183093
> --------------------------------------------------------------
>
>>
>>
>>Subject: Oldsmobile Toronado 1985
>>
>>Original owner, super clean, garaged.
>>95000miles, Blue metallic with plush navy interior.
>>A must-see for the Olds. enthusiast!
>>www.angelfire.com/on/wheels
>>
>>
>> --------------------------------------------------------------
>>  This article was posted at the request of the author
>>  by EPage, http://ep.com/
>>  The URL for this article is:
>>                http://ep.com/ep/mi.html?ad=183055
>> --------------------------------------------------------------
>>
>>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 09:37:49 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: RE: Q-jet

I think Dr. Barry is  on the money here. Try a weaker power valve spring.

roger h

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 10:41:17 -0500
From: "jackkopf" <jackkopf@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: motor oil recommendations?

1) Fresh rebuild first change @500 miles.
2)More important than oil change is to not run engine @ high
RPM for any length of time. Vary engine speed as much as
possible for first 1K.
3)Open spacer may or not help @ low RPM, Bore matching
spacer may make moderate improvement depending on manifold
vacuum,manifold volume etc.
- -----Original Message-----
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
To: OldsML <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: January 25, 1999 10:01 AM
Subject: motor oil recommendations?


>
>Hi Guys
>
>Slowly but surely getting to the point where I can turn the
key:
>
>* What kind of Motor Oil would you recommend for my new
rebuilt 350
>  (stock), .60 over, in the warm climate of Louisiana?
>* When is the first oil change due on a new rebuild?
>
>Still nobody replied to my earlier question:
>
>* Will a carb spacer get some more response in the lower
rpm range when
>  used on a single plane intake manifold?
>
>Thanks for your input! Regards,
>
>George
>-----------------------------------------------------------
- ---
>'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
>http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
>-----------------------------------------------------------
- ---
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 07:47:57 -0800
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Cowl Tag Repair, reconstruction

I've found myself a 70 4-4-2 4-speed ragtop car, which had a BAD engine
fire.  The wires, plastic, and that it all shot.  The cowl tag is in place,
but it is distorted/warped.  It looks as if it's made of thin metal or
almost pot metal.  I think only one corner got melted.  IS there any way or
a service that would repair these for a DECENT price.  I remember seeing a
guy's ad in Hemming's for this Reproduction), and he wanted $250.00!!!!
That's way too much  $$ for me!! Besides the things is going to need to be
blasted, primed... etc.  Everything will have to be gone over.

Any Ideas??  I'd love to hear them!

Steve Reed
'70 4-4-2 'Ragtop
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 09:11:21 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Another Olds web page

>Me too! Me too!
>
>I too have made a hack at putting my Olds up on the web.  It
>can be seen at
>http://people.ne.mediaone.net/andymikesell/OldsDelta88.htm.
>Let me know what you think!

That is a NICE car.  I really like it.  When you rebuild the motor, make
sure to port the heads and do .030 over as that way you can put higher
compression heads on it and increase performance significantly.  This is
what I did with my '76 Motor and it performed like night and day.  Are you
running a stock rear end ratio and do you plan to keep it that way? Igor.

1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 08:22:31 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Air Shocks

- ---"Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com> wrote:
>
> 
> 
> Igor T. '81 DRB 455 wrote:
> 
> > My question is to the people that owned air-shock before.  ( I
> > would like to know before I install them ).
> 
> > Second, are they a big
> > pain in the but to operate?
> 
> I never had a control in the passenger compartment.  I just had the
air fitting
> in my trunk.  So, it wasn't really convenient.
> 
> > How do they react to temp. change?
> 
> Never thought about it.  Northern Illinois (where I lived at the
time) can get
> pretty cold AND hot and humid.  I never noticed any temp related
problems.
> 
> > And finally (for now), how durable are they?
> 
> Mine only lasted a short time (about two years) but I bought these
cheap Sears &
> Roebuck shocks (I was a junior in high-school, what can I say?). 
The ones you
> buy are probably better.  Don't overfill the shock or you'll blow
the seal.
> 
> > And one more, how high can the
> > shocks raise the car.  I don't want it to be stupid if it sits up
too high.
> 
> There again, YOU control the lift.  But if raising the car is your
goal, don't
> rely on air shocks.  They're fine for levelling the car and maybe
giving a
> LITTLE lift. If you want to lift the car, put in stiffer springs or
spring
> spacers or something. That way the weight the car is on the spring
perch where
> it's supposed to be.  The shock mount is not designed to carry the
weight of the
> car.
=========================================
I agree with everything Thomas had to say except for one. I live in
North Dakota where we can see temps drop into the very low 20 belows
in the winters or we can see temps up into the 100's in the summers. I
have had a BIG problem with my shocks leaking. I don't know what brand
they are, but they came with the car. (Still in a box....never
assembled.....but no name on the box.) I do have 2 suggestions though.
1)Like Thomas said, do not rely on the shock to give lift. I have seen
the sheetmetal tear badly where the shock mounts to. 2)Run double
lines for your shocks. Do not put it into one main filling connection.
This way you can alter the level of the vehicle by filling one and
releasing another. I have found that (as slight as it is) you can
adjust the amount the one wheel will spin (one wheel wonders) if you
play with the shocks in the back.

Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 11:22:52 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: FS: '74 H/O

If interested, contact the people directly, 




>>1974, OLDSMOBILE, HURST, $6995, 350 AUTO OFFICIAL PACE CAR 71000
>>MILES., (810)-783-1111.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 11:31:58 EST
From: Onebil2mny@aol.com
Subject: Re: stealing was hei

In a message dated 1/25/1999 8:37:04 AM Eastern Standard Time,
JonKrisInc@aol.com writes:

<< Yes, and the operative word in that statement is BOUGHT! >>

And the problem with that is??   Let's face it, everything in a junk yard was
thrown away by someone.  Just because the yard was going to throw the part
away does not make it any less valuable.  That's what junk yards do, they sell
what other people throw away.  Since they own it, they can sell it, burn it,
crush it, or wear it as jewelry while dancing naked on the roof if they want
to. It's THEIR STUFF!!!!  If you, me, or anybody else walks off with it, it's
stealing. No matter what they were going to do with it!  Get it?!?!?    GOOD!

Bill K

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 10:40:48 -0600
From: "Michael L Johnson" <mljohns2@crnotes.collins.rockwell.com>
Subject: AXLE CODES

List,

     Recently I asked the list about a rearend I had found in the salvage
yard that was in a 1981 Cutlass Wagon that had been equipped with the
towing package , so it had a limited slip rearend in it.  My question to
the list was what was the general axle ratio that these cars came equipped
with and someone replied that I needed to find the build sheet. I like to
find out what the axle ratio is before I go pick it this week and so I went
back to the yard this last weekend and found what was left of the build
sheet under the rear seat. The piece that was left had these codes under
these headings:

AXLE:  8YW

FRAME:  CR
CONTROL ARMS:  WH  WH  WH  WH
REAR:  YGN WT

ENG:  VPU
TRANS:  8LD
SPEEDO GEAR:  38BLUD
RADIATOR HOSES:  VL VN

STRG. WHL.  846



Can anyone help to dicpher at least the axle code, The rest of the codes
      I'm just curious about.



Thanks in Advance



M. Johnson

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 08:45:56 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Address?????

There was a guy back on Friday who was not on this list. He wanted to
know about anyone who had a paint job done at Maaco. Does anyone
remember his e-mail address? I tried to send him something it came
back as unknown receipiant.

Thanks,
Del




==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 09:46:14 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Air Shocks

Well, perhaps I will just get 15x8" rims, that way I don't have to worry
about rubbing.  Don't really like to see a 295/50/15 on an 8" rim, though.
What I plan to do with the air-shocks is runs a on-board compressor and dual
lines (if I can).  275/60/15s would be good on the back but I don't want to
effectively reduce my gear ratio (compromises, compromises).  Thanks for all
the info guys.  With 15x8s and air-shocks, I could lower the car and still
boost it up when load demands.  Igor.


>I agree with everything Thomas had to say except for one. I live in
>North Dakota where we can see temps drop into the very low 20 belows
>in the winters or we can see temps up into the 100's in the summers. I
>have had a BIG problem with my shocks leaking. I don't know what brand
>they are, but they came with the car. (Still in a box....never
>assembled.....but no name on the box.) I do have 2 suggestions though.
>1)Like Thomas said, do not rely on the shock to give lift. I have seen
>the sheetmetal tear badly where the shock mounts to. 2)Run double
>lines for your shocks. Do not put it into one main filling connection.
>This way you can alter the level of the vehicle by filling one and
>releasing another. I have found that (as slight as it is) you can
>adjust the amount the one wheel will spin (one wheel wonders) if you
>play with the shocks in the back.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 11:14:00 +0000
From: pipe <banner@kwom.com>
Subject: RE: Mag wheel suggestions

Igor,

    Rims look cool. But you need to try and get some kind of
Olds Rocket logo for the center of the rim.

James Aiello

Driving 72 Cutlass conv. in
Chicago winter. And loving it!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 9:02 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: A-body rear coil spring retensin

   I noticed a scary piece of engineering when putting my Hotchkis 
rear springs into my '72 Supreme, the only thing that prevents the 
rear springs from falling out of the car when driving over a big bump 
is the rear shocks. That is to say those two teensy weensy little 
bolts at the top of the shock, and a single nut tightened down onto a 
*rubber* bushing at the bottom, without even a cotterpin or anything 
else to stop them backing out. Yikes.  Anyone have the experience of 
having the rear springs, well, spring out of their car on a big enough 
bump or pothole?

   One more quick question, my Olds manual makes much of the 
orientation of the pigtail on the rear springs when replacing them. 
However I was unable to find anything on either spring pocket that 
looked as though the pigtail had to point in a specific direction for 
the spring to seat correctly.  Am I missing something?

   Speaking of good/bad days at the junkyard, I found a complete '75 
Olds HEI distributor that looked in good shape in a junkyard 
yesterday, but about 35 minutes of tugging, pulling, tapping, 
cajoling, wiggling, pleading,prying,cursing, and everything else I 
could think of could not get it out of the engine block. Man, that 
thing was just seized - it would come up about a quarter inch and then 
just lock solid. The infamous Olds seized oil-pump driveshaft strikes 
again!

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 Plymouth Road Runner

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 09:21:02 PST
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Malfunction codes

> How can I pull the malfunction codes on an '85 Cutlass Supreme?
> I know the factory ALDL port is right under the radio console.
> It has 6 terminal plugs on top and 6 on bottom.  On a Buick you'd
> short the top left two, then turn on the key without starting the
> engine.  How about the Olds?

You short the top _right_ two together, then turn on the ignition.
Actually the left-hand port of that pair (the second from the right)
is your diagnostic lead; the rightmost port is just a convenient
ground connection. The Buick is the same way, IIRC.

On older cars (my '82 was one), you need to start the engine before
it will list the stored codes. If you get nothing but code 12s with
Ignition On, Engine Off, start the engine. An older ECM will list
stored error codes at that point; a newer one will begin blinking
away constantly at one of two different speeds to show Open/Closed
Loop mode.

- -- Andy

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 12:17:09 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: A-body rear coil spring retensin

...the only thing that prevents the
rear springs from falling out of the car when driving over a big bump
is the rear shocks.
__________

Actually, John, unless you regularly drive like Bo and Luke Duke, the only
thing keeping the rear springs in the car is, oh, about 1 3/4 tons of
Oldsmobile.  Now, if you _are_ regularly getting your Olds airborne,
several members of the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Really Cool
Oldsmobiles are going to pay you a visit...  ;-)

(Yes, I know that the full weight of the car is not carried on the rear
springs, but you get the idea...)

(And, yes, when you go over a bump, the weight of the car is temporarily
removed from the springs, but the key point is that there is always _some_
weight on the springs holding them in unless the rear wheels are off the
ground.)

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 11:42:36 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: motor oil recommendations?

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_004D_01BE4857.CE3B4CE0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

George,
First oil change should be at 500 miles but maybe sooner depending
on how much moly lube you used during assembly.  If you plugged the
bypass in the oil filter adapter all you have to do is watch for the oil
press to start dropping to tell when the filter is getting clogged.  For
all break-ins I always use straight 30W.  My personal preferance is
Valvoline but any straight wieght oil will work.  It's good to be =
consistent
in using the same brand and type of oil through the life of the engine.

As to the carb spacer, an open spacer on an open intake should move
the power band higher while a 4 hole spacer may move it somewhat
lower but should (my opinion here) give you more throttle response.
If  you really want more bottom end a dual plane intake w/an open spacer
would be the better choice.

Mike B
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/


* What kind of Motor Oil would you recommend for my new rebuilt 350=20
  (stock), .60 over, in the warm climate of Louisiana?=20
* When is the first oil change due on a new rebuild?

Still nobody replied to my earlier question:

* Will a carb spacer get some more response in the lower rpm range when=20
  used on a single plane intake manifold?

Thanks for your input! Regards,=20

George


- ------=_NextPart_000_004D_01BE4857.CE3B4CE0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>George,</DIV>
<DIV>First oil change should be at 500 miles but maybe sooner =
depending</DIV>
<DIV>on how much moly lube you used during assembly.&nbsp; If you =
plugged=20
the</DIV>
<DIV>bypass in the oil filter adapter all you have to do is watch for =
the=20
oil</DIV>
<DIV>press to start dropping to tell when the filter is getting =
clogged.&nbsp;=20
For</DIV>
<DIV>all break-ins I always use straight 30W.&nbsp; My personal =
preferance=20
is</DIV>
<DIV>Valvoline but any straight wieght oil will work.&nbsp; It's good to =
be=20
consistent</DIV>
<DIV>in using the same brand and type of oil through the life of the=20
engine.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>As to the carb spacer, an open spacer on an open intake should =
move</DIV>
<DIV>the power band higher while a 4 hole spacer may move it =
somewhat</DIV>
<DIV>lower but should (my opinion here) give you more throttle =
response.</DIV>
<DIV>If&nbsp; you really want more bottom end a dual plane intake w/an =
open=20
spacer</DIV>
<DIV>would be the better choice.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Mike B<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:mbloomer@mindspring.com">mbloomer@mindspring.com</A></DIV>=

<DIV><A href=3D"mailto:mbloomer@gateway.net"></A>ICQ# 19113713<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/">http://members.tripod.co=
m/CutlassFreak/</A><BR><BR><BR>*=20
What kind of Motor Oil would you recommend for my new rebuilt 350 =
<BR>&nbsp;=20
(stock), .60 over, in the warm climate of Louisiana? <BR>* When is the =
first oil=20
change due on a new rebuild?<BR><BR>Still nobody replied to my earlier=20
question:<BR><BR>* Will a carb spacer get some more response in the =
lower rpm=20
range when <BR>&nbsp; used on a single plane intake =
manifold?<BR><BR>Thanks for=20
your input! Regards, <BR><BR>George<BR></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_004D_01BE4857.CE3B4CE0--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 11:45:02 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Different Strokes on a 350 OLDS????

I gave a dead 350 to an engine rebuilder for use in a 307, and
apparently it didn't fit.  He sais, according to his books, there's two
different strokes for a 350 Olds, and they changed around '75?????????

The FAQ lists one BORE and STROKE, consistent with what I always
thought, but apparently this is not the case, or something..  AM I wrong
here, or is there something else that makes the cranks different????

I guess, also, would a 75 350 Crank work in a 307??

My real question: what the *(&*(&*( is going on in crank-town?

Please reply ASAP as I'm going to pick up the pieces I want off the
block today...

Eric Aksomitis
http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 12:56:17 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: More coil spring retension

Just another note on the structural capability of the fasteners holding the
rear shocks in place.  These are, what, 5/16" bolts?  Assuming that they
are made of low-grade steel (50,000 psi tensile yield - a crappy grade 3
bolt), the root diameter of a 5/16" bolt is about 0.250" (root diameter is
the minimum cross section of a threaded fastener).  That root diameter
yields a cross section area of 0.049 square inches, which  when multiplied
by 50,000 psi yields a tensile allowable of 2454 lbs per bolt!  In other
words, the two shock bolts by themselves could easily be used to lift the
entire car.

Now, obviously this doesn't take into account fatigue or manufacturing
flaws in the fasteners, or whatever, but keep in mind that the only thing
the bolts need to hold are a hundred pounds or so of compressed spring
force.  Not a problem!

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 13:02:53 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Different Strokes on a 350 OLDS????

I gave a dead 350 to an engine rebuilder for use in a 307, and
apparently it didn't fit.  He sais, according to his books, there's two
different strokes for a 350 Olds, and they changed around '75?????????
_______

BZZZZT!  Wrong.  Ever Olds small block ever made (260, 307, 330, 350, and
403) uses exactly the same stroke - 3.385".   Be sure your mechanic is
talking about motors actually built by Oldsmobile, as opposed to those of
other divisions which were installed in Olds cars.  Perhaps this "book" is
talking about the infamous Chebby 350 that GM started to put in Oldsmobiles
about that time (and which led to the well publicized lawsuits)?

Note that while the stroke is the same for all Olds small blocks, the 350
diesel crank will not fit other small blocks due to the use of the big
block main bearing sizes on the diesel crank.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 10:17:48 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: A-body rear coil spring retensin

- ---John Carri <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com> wrote:
>
> 
>    I noticed a scary piece of engineering when putting my Hotchkis 
> rear springs into my '72 Supreme, the only thing that prevents the 
> rear springs from falling out of the car when driving over a big bump 
> is the rear shocks. That is to say those two teensy weensy little 
> bolts at the top of the shock, and a single nut tightened down onto a 
> *rubber* bushing at the bottom, without even a cotterpin or anything 
> else to stop them backing out. Yikes.  Anyone have the experience of 
> having the rear springs, well, spring out of their car on a big
enough 
> bump or pothole?
> 
>    One more quick question, my Olds manual makes much of the 
> orientation of the pigtail on the rear springs when replacing them. 
> However I was unable to find anything on either spring pocket that 
> looked as though the pigtail had to point in a specific direction for 
> the spring to seat correctly.  Am I missing something?
==================================
John,

If memory serves, even with the shocks removed, the springs will not
come out. I can't remember if there was a control arm that needed to
be loosened or if you really had to pry to get them in and out. I
think that I had to remove some type of a control arm, but I can't
remember.

Del

==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 13:14:10 EST
From: Lou0118@aol.com
Subject: Re: More coil spring retension

In a message dated 01/25/1999 1:03:58 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM writes:

<< Just another note on the structural capability of the fasteners holding the
 rear shocks in place.  These are, what, 5/16" bolts?  Assuming that they
 are made of low-grade steel (50,000 psi tensile yield - a crappy grade 3
 bolt), the root diameter of a 5/16" bolt is about 0.250" (root diameter is
 the minimum cross section of a threaded fastener).  That root diameter
 yields a cross section area of 0.049 square inches, which  when multiplied
 by 50,000 psi yields a tensile allowable of 2454 lbs per bolt!  In other
 words, the two shock bolts by themselves could easily be used to lift the
 entire car.
  >>

Don't you just love all that technical stuff.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 13:16:55 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: Olds on MCC this coming weekend

Hi all,
Was watching My Classic Car this weekend and at the end of the show when
they do previews for next week, they mentioned the spotlighted vehicle.
FYI, this past weekends was the Ampicar.  Well, next weekend will be a
"special Oldsmobile"  The picture they showed was of a white 68, and I'm
guessing it's gonna be the W-30 model (looked similar to yours Joe P) from
the brief shot I got.  So needless to say I've already marked my calendar,
may even pop a tape into the VCR, just need to find one.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris/

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 12:20:08 -0600
From: Eric <big_olds@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Different Strokes on a 350 OLDS????

Yes, I think maybe that's the case that it's not an Olds, but he sais
it's a 307, and he actually knows a fair chunk about Olds motors.  I
think maybe the book lists different casting numbers for cranks that are
actually interchangeable, but the book lists them as different.  Maybe
the book lists two cranks for Olds cars, but neglects to say that the
one is from a 350 Chev (Which would have the longer stroke he
mentioned...)

Any PossiblE reason why a 75 Crank wouldn't fit into a 307 (bearing
sizes, wrong colour, two many cylinders, different flywheel, etc..)?
Eric

Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:
> BZZZZT!  Wrong.  Ever Olds small block ever made (260, 307, 330, 350, and
> 403) uses exactly the same stroke - 3.385".   Be sure your mechanic is
> talking about motors actually built by Oldsmobile, as opposed to those of
> other divisions which were installed in Olds cars.  Perhaps this "book" is
> talking about the infamous Chebby 350 that GM started to put in Oldsmobiles
> about that time (and which led to the well publicized lawsuits)?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 11:24:00 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Address?????

I believe it was : Michael_Baugher/MO/americancentury@americancentury.com  My
mail to him did not bounce but I have not heard that it made it through either.

Rock Man wrote:
> 
> There was a guy back on Friday who was not on this list. He wanted to
> know about anyone who had a paint job done at Maaco. Does anyone
> remember his e-mail address? I tried to send him something it came
> back as unknown receipiant.
> <snip>
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 13:30:07 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Different Strokes on a 350 OLDS????

 I think maybe the book lists different casting numbers for cranks that are
actually interchangeable, but the book lists them as different.
_______

They probably _are_ different part numbers, as I suspect the balancing is
different between the 350 and the 307.  The strokes may be the same, but
the pistons are definitely different (as in different diameters and thus
weights), and the rods may even be lighter due to fuel economy concerns in
the more recent years.  If this is true, then the cranks will not be
drop-in replaceable, as the 350 crank will need to be rebalanced for use in
a 307.  The stroke, however, is identical between the two, as is the
flywheel flange (that was changed between 1967 and 1968).

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 12:44:29 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: motor oil recommendations?

On a new motor I would recommend 10w-30, 10w-40 or even 20w-50. I would
CHANGE the oil IMMEDIATELY after the initial 20-30 minute cam break in
procedure. Then I would change it after 500 miles of driving and then would
change it 1000 miles later. After that go about your regular 2500-3000 mile
oil change. But most definately I would change it after the first 20-30
minutes of running because of the dirt and numerous lubes  (cam,crank) that
are in the oil.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
> To: OldsML <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: motor oil recommendations?
> Date: Monday, January 25, 1999 8:51 AM
> 
> 
> Hi Guys 
> 
> Slowly but surely getting to the point where I can turn the key:
> 
> * What kind of Motor Oil would you recommend for my new rebuilt 350 
>   (stock), .60 over, in the warm climate of Louisiana? 
> * When is the first oil change due on a new rebuild?
> 
> Still nobody replied to my earlier question:
> 
> * Will a carb spacer get some more response in the lower rpm range when 
>   used on a single plane intake manifold?
> 
> Thanks for your input! Regards, 
> 
> George
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> '68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
> http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
> --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 13:48:31 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Igor's Links....My name my page, but no link?!?

Igor, I went to your page just a sec ago so I could add it to my links page,
and I saw my pages name, but its not a llink, um, wanna fix that :)?
Kelly Erickson
1966 Cutlass
1954 Super 88  (anyone want the damn thing?)
1968 Cutlass Supreme (my daddy-o's)
http://www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 12:00:36 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Water Injection was: 215 Turbo Info

If you look at the physics side, there are many benefits. The water, yes is
vaporised, but that is what you need. Just as the fuel becomes vapor the water
needs to also. It cools the intake runners and the fuel/air/water mixture
making it denser and more stable for combustion. Once inside the chamber, water
doesn't compress as well as gas, and hense you actually get a "tighter"
combustion, and then the ignition. The fuel and air ignite and cause the water
to rapidly expand also and turns into steam. This steam effectivly "scrubs" the
valves, chamber, spark plug, piston all the build up will eventually come off
and stay off. The water is then pushed out as an exhaust. I haven't heard of
rusting heads, pistons, or exhaust from this so I wouldn't worry too much about
that. the amount of water is very small and it's atomized/vaporised so there
will be little or no damage if the engine sits for long periods of time with
the water injection hooked up at last running. Because the water is atomized
and replaces some of the fuel in the mixture, you will be able to turn down
your air/fuel mixture screws a bit. the effects are cleaner burning, less
emissions, better economy, and more efficient burning/steaming causes more
horsepower. Granted it's not racing improvments but for the "tinkerer" and
economist, these are added benefits and if done cheaply, then why not?

Ben
anybody need a set of C heads from a 68???
Email me: olds442@primenet.com

Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:

> In addition to knock reduction, I've read all sorts of claims on some of
> the
> more "imaginative" websites dealing with fuel economy that these water
> injection systems eliminate knock, significantly boost fuel economy,
> increase
> power, reduce emissions...seek out new life and new civilizations...
> Anyway,
> any truth to these claims or is it just snake oil?  Personally, I feel a
> bit
> squeemish about squirting water into my engine.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 14:43:19 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: motor oil recommendations?

In a message dated 1/25/99 10:40:54 AM Pacific Standard Time,
PETTRIX@prodigy.net writes:

<< But most definately I would change it after the first 20-30
 minutes of running because of the dirt and numerous lubes  (cam,crank) that
 are in the oil.
 Pettrix@prodigy.net >>

        I can see the dirt part of that, but I have a feeling that the
assembly lubes, of course quality ones, (like theres any way to know for sure
which are "quality") pose absolutely no threat to the engine. If anything
would be harmed by assembly lube, grease, etc., it would be an automatic
transmission, and in a rebuild, they use that stuff liberally. (matter of
fact, vaseline works well to hold parts in place) When I had my transmission
rebuilt they said to change the oil in 30,000 miles. Maybe a machinist on the
list can clear that up. (unless you are of course!) Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 14:45:09 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Water Injection was: 215 Turbo Info

Ben
anybody need a set of C heads from a 68???
Email me: olds442@primenet.com

Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:

> In addition to knock reduction,..
_______

Ben, while you did post some excellent information about water injection,
in the future we should all try to take care to attribute quotes to the
correct originator.  The words you have attributed to me were, in fact, a
quote in my post from a prior question.  While in this case there was
certainly no issue with the mis-attributed quote, in other cases somewhat
inflamatory posts have been attributed to the wrong originator.  Let's all
please try to be more careful in the future.

Thanks

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 15:02:27 -0500
From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
Subject: RE: Exhaust System Suggestions

> Garnder Exaust, they have every muscle car exhaust system, EXACTILY stock
> ones
> too, give em a call, sorry dont have their number
> 
They're on the web too, don't recall the URL off-hand though.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris/

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 14:11:59 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: motor oil recommendations?

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Peter's way of doing it is bordering on the side of overcaution but
there's nothing wrong with that.  There should be NO dirt in a freshly
rebuilt motor, though there may be some shavings but that shouldn't
be there either if the rebuild was done correctly.  The thing about the
lubes is that some of them don't completely dissolve in motor oil. =20
Personally, the only thing I agree with using as a lube aside from=20
regular motor oil is cam lube.  I have seen people use lithium grease
on the rods and mains but as long as you pre lube the motor before
firing it (spin the oil pump while turning the motor over by hand) motor
oil is all you need.  The problem comes from all the various "snake oil"
lubes that don't dissolve is that they clog up the oil filter.  Once the =

filter clogs it starts bypassing the filter and you have no way of =
telling.
This is the reason for changing the oil at 500 miles (my preference)
so that all the cam lube has a chance get trapped in the filter.  My
other personal preferance is to tap and plug the bypass in the filter
adapter so that if the oil press starts to drop I know to change the oil
and don't have to worry about unfiltered oil circulating in the motor=20
without me knowing it.  FYI the common cam lube for break in is
molybdebnium (sp?), or comonly called moly lube, and doesn't even=20
break down that well in a solvent tank.  Same stuff they pack in
CV joints and 30mm guns on Apaches.  =20

The thing about the auto trans using petroleum jelly to hold all the=20
balls in place is that ATF is something like 90% detergent which
is why they are always so clean inside.  The detergent will quickly
break down the vaseline where motor oil will not.

Mike B
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

<< But most definately I would change it after the first 20-30
minutes of running because of the dirt and numerous lubes  (cam,crank) =
that
are in the oil.
Pettrix@prodigy.net >>

<<I can see the dirt part of that, but I have a feeling that the
assembly lubes, of course quality ones, (like theres any way to know for =
sure
which are "quality") pose absolutely no threat to the engine. If =
anything
would be harmed by assembly lube, grease, etc., it would be an automatic
transmission, and in a rebuild, they use that stuff liberally. (matter =
of
fact, vaseline works well to hold parts in place) When I had my =
transmission
rebuilt they said to change the oil in 30,000 miles. Maybe a machinist =
on the
list can clear that up. (unless you are of course!) Dorian>>



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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>Peter's way of doing it is bordering on the side of overcaution =
but</DIV>
<DIV>there's nothing wrong with that.&nbsp; There should be NO dirt in a =

freshly</DIV>
<DIV>rebuilt motor, though there may be some shavings but that =
shouldn't</DIV>
<DIV>be there either if the rebuild was done correctly.&nbsp; The thing =
about=20
the</DIV>
<DIV>lubes is that some of them don't completely dissolve in motor =
oil.&nbsp;=20
</DIV>
<DIV>Personally, the only thing I agree with using as a lube aside from =
</DIV>
<DIV>regular motor oil is cam lube.&nbsp; I have seen people use lithium =

grease</DIV>
<DIV>on the rods and mains but as long as you pre lube the motor =
before</DIV>
<DIV>firing it (spin the oil pump while turning the motor over by hand)=20
motor</DIV>
<DIV>oil is all you need.&nbsp; The problem comes from all the various=20
&quot;snake oil&quot;</DIV>
<DIV>lubes that don't dissolve is that they clog up the oil =
filter.&nbsp; Once=20
the </DIV>
<DIV>filter clogs it starts bypassing the filter and you have no way of=20
telling.</DIV>
<DIV>This is the reason for changing the oil at 500 miles (my =
preference)</DIV>
<DIV>so that all the cam lube has a chance get trapped in the =
filter.&nbsp;=20
My</DIV>
<DIV>other personal preferance is to tap and plug the bypass in the =
filter</DIV>
<DIV>adapter so that if the oil press starts to drop I know to change =
the=20
oil</DIV>
<DIV>and don't have to worry about unfiltered oil circulating in the =
motor=20
</DIV>
<DIV>without me knowing it.&nbsp; FYI the common cam lube for break in =
is</DIV>
<DIV>molybdebnium (sp?), or comonly called moly lube, and doesn't even =
</DIV>
<DIV>break down that well in a solvent tank.&nbsp; Same stuff they pack =
in</DIV>
<DIV>CV joints and 30mm guns on Apaches.&nbsp;&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>The thing about the auto trans using petroleum jelly to hold all =
the </DIV>
<DIV>balls in place is that ATF is something like 90% detergent =
which</DIV>
<DIV>is why they are always so clean inside.&nbsp; The detergent will=20
quickly</DIV>
<DIV>break down the vaseline where motor oil will not.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Mike B<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:mbloomer@mindspring.com">mbloomer@mindspring.com</A><BR>IC=
Q#=20
19113713<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/">http://members.tripod.co=
m/CutlassFreak/</A><BR><BR>&lt;&lt;=20
But most definately I would change it after the first 20-30<BR>minutes =
of=20
running because of the dirt and numerous lubes&nbsp; (cam,crank) =
that<BR>are in=20
the oil.<BR><A =
href=3D"mailto:Pettrix@prodigy.net">Pettrix@prodigy.net</A>=20
&gt;&gt;<BR><BR>&lt;&lt;I can see the dirt part of that, but I have a =
feeling=20
that the<BR>assembly lubes, of course quality ones, (like theres any way =
to know=20
for sure<BR>which are &quot;quality&quot;) pose absolutely no threat to =
the=20
engine. If anything<BR>would be harmed by assembly lube, grease, etc., =
it would=20
be an automatic<BR>transmission, and in a rebuild, they use that stuff=20
liberally. (matter of<BR>fact, vaseline works well to hold parts in =
place) When=20
I had my transmission<BR>rebuilt they said to change the oil in 30,000 =
miles.=20
Maybe a machinist on the<BR>list can clear that up. (unless you are of =
course!)=20
Dorian&gt;&gt;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1732
*********************************

