Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.Ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.Ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1773


oldsmobile-digest     Saturday, February 13 1999     Volume 01 : Number 1773



Re: Collector Car financing/long
Re: MSD Ignition?
Re: 455 roller rocker arms
Re: 455 roller rocker arms
Re: 455 roller rocker arms
Re: Mondello  was Re: 455 roller rocker arms
Hello Again
Re: Mondello  was Re: 455 roller rocker arms
Re: Is there a better HEI?
Re: cast iron welding....
Re: 1932 Olds Prices (Garys questions)
Re: Ink
Re: Re: LISTEN TO THIS C...
Re: street 350 recipe..
Re: NEW CAR CRAFT
Re: Crack in my 455 : (
Unsubsribe
Re: production numbers
Olds's at Detroit Autorama
Re: 1032 Oldsmobile - Need Advice
Re: Torque sequence and torque readings...
Re: Re: RE: Chevrolet 350
Re: 75 H/O T-Top Gaskets
Re: Olds Club of Fla swap meet at Old Town
Re: Re: LISTEN TO THIS C...
Olds Straight 8: History Question
Re: 455 roller rocker arms
Re: MSD Ignition?
Re: Steering Wheel Help
Re: Mondello  was Re: 455 roller rocker arms
window rattles...
Re: Olds Straight 8: History Question
NASCAR Configurations
Roller Rockers.
Re: 455 roller rocker arms
Re: Roller Rockers.
Re: Roller Rockers.
Pushrods (non- Ch*tty or Sommerville) was: Roller Rockers.
RE: Non olds: what the heck is E-bay?
Re: Pushrods (non- Ch*tty or Sommerville) was: Roller Rockers.
Re: Roller Rockers.
running to hot?
Cam For 330
Re: Cam For 330
Re: 455 roller rocker arms
Re: Pushrods (non- Ch*tty or Sommerville) was: Roller Rockers.
Re: Cam For 330
Re: Cam For 330
Re: Cam For 330
Re: cast iron welding....
Re: Pushrods (non- Ch*tty or Sommerville) was: Roller Rockers.
Re: 1932 Olds Prices (Garys questions)
Water Jacket Cleanout?
69  4 4 2
Re: Water Jacket Cleanout?
Re: badges
Re: Olds Straight 8: History Question

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 00:04:19 -0500
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Collector Car financing/long

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0068_01BE56E4.6774E980
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

    Tom,
   =20
    I was in the same boat when I found my '72 H/O last year. I wanted =
it real bad and was still "healing" from the $$$$$ I put in my Cutlass a =
few months before. Gave the bank and a finance company (legal loan =
sharks, super high interest) a call. The finance company didn't care =
what the money was for, but had a problem with being self-employed for =
only 1 1/2 years. I already had a 2nd mortgage with and there isn't =
enough equity in the house for another loan. (200 year old log home that =
I've been restoring for the past 4 years and still have a few more to =
go) So they weren't much help.
   =20
    The bank surprised me...........approved the same day and money in =
hand the next and I hadn't even seen the car in person yet. I was kinda =
just seeing if I could get the money as I didn't want to drive 3 hours =
and not be able to make a deal. I wouldn't have minded seeing the car, =
but didn't want to string the seller along.  Along with the normal loan =
info they wanted ( salary, debts, credit report etc), brought in a full =
description of the car (along with pictures of restored cars, didn't =
have any of the one I wanted), number produced to verify rarity and 3 =
three price guide books from three sequential years to prove the value =
of the car was rising. Explained to him how to rate a car and what resto =
work I planned to do to it.=20
   =20
    Bank gave me $7,000 before I even saw the car in person and I =
explained to the loan officer that I had not seen the car in person =
yet....just pictures. Owner wanted $7,500 and dropped to $6,500 ( I =
offered $6,000) when I told him it would cost atleast $1,000 more than I =
figured to replace the O.A.I, Torker intake and C-heads with original =
equipment (along with what he already told me needed replaced). So I =
ended up getting more than 100% financing. The only stipulation with the =
bank was that if I didn't buy the car.......I had to cancel the loan =
(return the $$$) and if I did I had to show proof the following Monday. =
Bank gave me the $$$ on Friday and I bought the car Saturday. I was =
actually surprised...........didn't figure I could get a loan for a =
classic car. The bank did want to go home equity at first, but I =
explained about the house (plywood for carpeting) and what I was doing =
with it. Did have to give them my corporate taxes for the previous year =
and prove that I had "X" number of contracts in hand worth "X" amount of =
money. No big deal!
   =20
    The loan officer said straight up that he wasn't a car guy, but his =
friend had restored a '69 Mustang (Mach I, I believe) and that his =
friend had turned a piece of junk into a "work of art". Did this help =
me?...........probably. ;-)
   =20
    It also helped that I had an account with this bank since 1980, but =
hadn't used them for any type of loan before and I don't have my =
business accounts with them. Just a plain old checking account I opened =
when I was 16. My then employer used direct deposit and I needed a =
checking account.  =20
   =20
    So.........if I were you, I'd give your bank a try. Doesn't cost =
anything to apply (unless you go home equity) and the worst they can say =
is no.
   =20
    Well........that's my story.
   =20
    Randy =20

- ------=_NextPart_000_0068_01BE56E4.6774E980
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Tom,</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I was in the same boat when I =
found my '72=20
    H/O last year. I wanted it real bad and was still =
&quot;healing&quot; from=20
    the $$$$$ I put in my Cutlass a few months before. Gave the bank and =
a=20
    finance company (legal loan sharks, super high interest) a call. The =
finance=20
    company didn't care what the money was for, but had a problem with =
being=20
    self-employed for only 1 1/2 years. I already had a 2nd mortgage =
with and=20
    there isn't enough equity in the house for another loan. (200 year =
old log=20
    home that I've been restoring for the past 4 years and still have a =
few more=20
    to go) So they weren't much help.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>The bank surprised =
me...........approved the=20
    same day and money in hand the next and I hadn't even seen the car =
in person=20
    yet. I was kinda just seeing if I could get the money as I didn't =
want to=20
    drive 3 hours and not be able to make a deal. I wouldn't have minded =
seeing=20
    the car, but didn't want to string the seller along.&nbsp; Along =
with the=20
    normal loan info they wanted ( salary, debts, credit report etc), =
brought in=20
    a full description of the car (along with pictures of restored cars, =
didn't=20
    have any of the one I wanted), number produced to verify rarity and =
3 three=20
    price guide books from three sequential years to prove the value of =
the car=20
    was rising. Explained to him how to rate a car and what resto work I =
planned=20
    to do to it.&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Bank gave me $7,000 before I =
even saw the=20
    car in person and I explained to the loan officer that I had not =
seen the=20
    car in person yet....just pictures. Owner wanted $7,500 and dropped =
to=20
    $6,500 ( I offered $6,000) when I told him it would cost atleast =
$1,000 more=20
    than I figured to replace the O.A.I, Torker intake and C-heads with =
original=20
    equipment (along with what he already told me needed replaced). So I =
ended=20
    up getting more than 100% financing. The only stipulation with the =
bank was=20
    that if I didn't buy the car.......I had to cancel the loan (return =
the $$$)=20
    and if I did I had to show proof the following Monday. Bank gave me =
the $$$=20
    on Friday and I bought the car Saturday. I was actually=20
    surprised...........didn't figure I could get a loan for a classic =
car. The=20
    bank did want to go home equity at first, but I explained about the =
house=20
    (plywood for carpeting) and what I was doing with it. Did have to =
give them=20
    my corporate taxes for the previous year and prove that I had =
&quot;X&quot;=20
    number of contracts in hand worth &quot;X&quot; amount of money. No =
big=20
    deal!</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>The loan officer said straight =
up that he=20
    wasn't a car guy, but his friend had restored a '69 Mustang (Mach I, =
I=20
    believe) and that his friend had turned a piece of junk into a =
&quot;work of=20
    art&quot;. Did this help me?...........probably. ;-)</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>It also helped that I had an =
account with=20
    this bank since 1980, but hadn't used them for any type of loan =
before and I=20
    don't have my business accounts with them. Just a plain old checking =
account=20
    I opened when I was 16. My then employer used direct deposit and I =
needed a=20
    checking account.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>So.........if I were you, I'd =
give your bank=20
    a try. Doesn't cost anything to apply (unless you go home equity) =
and the=20
    worst they can say is no.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Well........that's my =
story.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Randy&nbsp;=20
</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0068_01BE56E4.6774E980--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 23:07:46 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: MSD Ignition?

>Has anyone had any performance comparisons from a HEI to a Multiple Spark
>Discharge ignitions?
>

Never done any back to back type comparisons supported with
timeslips or dyno numbers, but on the vehicles I've installed the
MSD on I always made a point to drive the vehicle in the "before"
configuration.  Compared to a bone stock ignition the difference
is usually enough that you can feel it driving.  Of course, the more
CR, cam size, etc that the motor has the more the potential for
improvement.

>Does the MSD (not the company MSD, just the technology!) ignitions actually
>help?  Do they reduce emissions?  Do they improve fuel economy?  Do they
may
>more HP?
>

Never personally used any other ignition system that uses the
MSD technology so I can't say for them.  You have to keep in mind
that vs a stock ignition, your doing more than adding multiple sparks.
Your upping the ignition voltage (and more importantly amperage due
to coil replacement), coil saturation, and also a tune up in a typical
installation.  This will give you more of an improvement in a system
that was not performing at it's peak effieciency to start with.  I know
a couple of guys that installed the MSD units on thier tow rigs and saw
an improvement in power under load along with mpg gains.  Like I said
before though, the more the engine needs a good ignition system the
more improvement you'll see.  A 2bl smog motor with an HEI will not
see the same improvements as a 10:1, .500 in lift, 4bl, dual exhaust
car with a stock HEI will see.  The whole "weak link" principle in action.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 22:10:27 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 455 roller rocker arms

>        I purchased a set of bolt-on no
>mods required roller rockers from Mondello.
>Easy set up and adjustment....


Did it make any power difference.  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 00:12:55 -0500
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 455 roller rocker arms

>Check out the Comp Cams Magnum roller tipped rocker arm >ass.(part
#1-442-16)  Keep in mind these are not full roller as the >pivot point is
still a ball, but the tips are roller and it provides you with >the ability
to adjust your valve train and eliminates the stock >"bridge".   Prob take
an hour or two to do the install.


=====================================================
I second this..........been running these for about a year now. No
problems.........just remember to use Loctite on the studs and I recommend a
set of polylocks instead of the crimp nuts that come with the kit.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 00:15:20 EST
From: Stakin@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 roller rocker arms

Comp Cams makes a roller tip kit that comes complete with push rods , rockers
, studs , and guide plates. No machining is required.  I dont have the catalog
in front of me but I believe the p/n is 1442kit   :-)

Joe

<< OLDSHEADS;
 I've heard a bit of bad press about stock 455 rocker arms and bridges,so
 i'm considering installing roller rockers.I'd like to do this with as
 little machining as possible.(preferably none,don't want to disassemble
 the top end.)I've heard Harland Sharp makes a kit that dosen't require
 any.
 
     Any one care to comment?     >>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 00:24:49 -0500
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Mondello  was Re: 455 roller rocker arms

>and don't find what I need in the free Summit and Jeg's catalogs so I >call
Mondello expecting similar treatment.

Gene,

I have Mondello's catalog and tech manual, but haven't done any business
with him yet. So I can't comment on that portion of you post, but just
remember this.  Summit and Jegs most likely have the parts you're looking
for you just have to call and ask. They only list the high volume stuff in
their catalogs. Summit, Jegs, Northern.........haven't let me down yet.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 00:39:05 -0500
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Hello Again

Hi list...

I've been gone for a while...well, a LONG while now, so I figured I'd
re-introduce myself as long as I'm popping back in here.  I'm 20 years old
and attend Virginia Tech university.  My major is Information Technology
(yes, for you Jason Adcock fans, that's a change from Computer Science) and
I'm lookin' to graduate in 2001.

I drive an Olds (of course), more specifically, a 1984 Cutlass Calais Coupe.
You can get all the info and lots of pictures at my new website, linked
though the link below, or just shoot over to
http://members.xoom.com/jadcock/cutlass/cutlass.html

It's good to be back.  :-)  Hopefully, I'll be able to answer more questions
than when I was previously subscribed!

Oh, Joe P., *one* of those heads looks purdy dang good!  We haven't touched
the other one yet, but even the original gold paint is shining up pretty
well!  :-)

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://members.xoom.com/jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 23:40:33 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Mondello  was Re: 455 roller rocker arms

I second Randy's comment.  When it comes to those free catalogs,
they list a lot of stuff, and considering that it's free, you can't expect
them to list every part for every application.  It's a safe bet that if they
carry one product from a certain manufacturer they carry that
manufacturers whole catalog.  For example on those ads that say
"most applications $XX.99", I ordered a set of headers for my Cutlass
a few years back expecting them to be more than the low price.  Same
price which made me very happy and a repeat customer.  It has been
said that you can get cheaper prices for stuff like intakes and carbs
from the local chain auto parts stores for cheaper but they only carry
either universal stuff or cheby parts, so if it's an intake then you'll
still
have to order it and usually wait longer and have to deal with those
bonehead "auto parts proffesionals" on top of everything.  PC comment:
I realize that not all people who work in the chain parts stores are
"boneheads" but it is a generalization based on the majority of my
experience spent arguing that X part ~will~ fit my car and that I do
indeed need it for it to run.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/


>>and don't find what I need in the free Summit and Jeg's catalogs so I
>call
>Mondello expecting similar treatment.
>
>Gene,
>
>I have Mondello's catalog and tech manual, but haven't done any business
>with him yet. So I can't comment on that portion of you post, but just
>remember this.  Summit and Jegs most likely have the parts you're looking
>for you just have to call and ask. They only list the high volume stuff in
>their catalogs. Summit, Jegs, Northern.........haven't let me down yet.
>
>Randy
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 23:46:07 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Is there a better HEI?

>I'm replacing my HEI dist (72 cutlass) and I was wondering are all HEI's
the
>same quality? In other words would I be better off buying a 1976 HEI vice a
>1975 HEI. Or are they all the same other than the newer ones using
different
>types of modules.
>
>Eddie  72 Cutlass  conv / 4spd

Basically, a HEI is a HEI it just depends on what shape
it's in and how much wear it has on it.  There are companies
that sell new HEI's that are supposed to be better than a
factory HEI but I have no experience there.  As long as the
bushings are tight and the shaft isn't worn, your in good shape
as the rest of the parts are usually a dime a dozen.  My first
HEI conversion I did was by taking about 6 old HEI's (couple
were cheby, couple were Olds, couple were buick) and using
the best parts from each.  Cost me nothing, as all the parts
were lying around in junk piles in my shop but that's the nice
thing of working in a shop.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 23:50:15 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: cast iron welding....

>Ed;
>You can sew (weld) cast iron cold, but it warps, thats the reason for the
>heat treatment, I've seen it done with no problems, but it's 50/50 chance
>it might, we have done it with race car engine blocks but they were align
>bored, and trued up after the welding.
>Lou 
>
Another option is to pin the crack.  If done properly it will 
hold up fine, requires no heating, causes no warping, and
all you need is a drill and tap.  Anybody else ever used this
method?  I've done it on blocks and heads with never any
problem but some people seem scared to use this method.
Why?

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 23:56:20 -0600
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 1932 Olds Prices (Garys questions)

Was just reading today that the 32 cheby's with an inline OHV 6
had a base price of $495 for a coupe.  Seems like a huge price
jump but then again that's comparing a coupe to a sedan.  Still,
were the Olds' back then that much more expensive?

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

>> OK, That's now done. Ahhh, "I feel much better". So, to the list. I was
just
>> thinking (Oh No) about what that particular 1932 4 door went for new?
>F series (6 cylinder) 4 door sedan base price was $955. 6139 built.
>F series (6 cylinder) 4 door Patrician sedan base price was $990. 2367
>built.
>L series (8 cylinder) 4 door sedan base price was $1055. 1776 built.
>L series (8 cylinder) 4 door Patrician sedan base price was $1090. 2364
>built.
>BTW, all engines were straight.  The 8 cylinder models had 2 windshield
>wipers, while the 6 cylinder models only had 1.
<sniped Kurt's amazing amount of early Olds info>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 02:29:48 EST
From: LooseCanno@aol.com
Subject: Re: Ink

If I were ever to get any tattoo, it would definitely be an olds rocket.

A friend of mine, Impala fan, has considered getting the Impala as a tattoo...
I have to admit, that would also be very cool... but the bowtie would be way
outta line!

Erik
'69 Cutlass 'S' convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 02:31:59 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Re: LISTEN TO THIS C...

>Find a beat-up old Jap car, preferrably one that has been wrecked by a
drunk
>driver.
>Put it in the lot and charge a dollar or two for people to come by
>and take a whack at it with a sledge.

Yeah, except that with Jap car, $3 later there would be nothing left to
whack.  A good '70s 98 would bring in millions before it showed any scars.

10 years ago, the engineering faculty decided to pull a prank and show how
"enginuative" they are.  So morning comes, campus is to find a late '70s
Civic hanging from a big arch on campus (30 feet in the air +).  How
embarrassing.  The point was that the arch is not that thick.  They managed
to hang a Civic without getting cought.  Me and two of my buddies can lift a
Civic overhead.  They should have hung a Cadillac and perhaps get a little
more respect.  Geez.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 02:45:44 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: street 350 recipe..

>The Edelbrock performer cam and intake would probabily be the easiest
>way to meet your needs.

I agree.  I have the Edelbrock small-block performer grind (204/214@.050,
.448/.472 lift) and the Performer intake in my 455.  I can say that bottom
end is nuts (455 though) and everything else is good.  For you, I would
definitely say a good, dual-pattern cam.  Don't buy the cam from Edelbrock
as they are expensive.  Get a speed-pro version for cheap.  This is what I
think is a must in your case:

1)Headers and good dual-exhaust, with a balancer tube and Turbo mufflers
(like Dynomax Super Turbo)

2)A new cam, like the grind I have or maybe even a little bigger one
(Edelbrock performer for BB olds)


3)If you have money, Edelbrock Performer or Performer RPM intake (performer
if bottom end is what you want)
Then, get your Q-jet re-done and your distributor recurved.

4)If you are willing or have money, have the heads done but I would leave
that for later.

5)If you have the money or are willing, a set of 3.73s would do wonders.  If
you are nuts about it, heck, go with 4.10s.  I have 3.23s in my Delta and
although it is the fastest car I have ever owned, my '81 van with 4.10s and
360 MOPAR goes good too and is  a lot of fun.

As far as cam goes, I am not happy with mine.  I wanted bottom end as well
but I got WAY too much of it.  I have absolutely no traction in first with
my 3.23 POSI and 255/60/15 T/A tires on 8" rims.  The motor could do better
from 2500 RPM on.  Don't over-cam your car BUT don't also undercam it as
well.  Then again, my cam might just be perfect for your 350.  Has anyone
had any experience with this cam in a 350?  Igor.

Igor Todorovic

1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 05:29:52 EST
From: GraphixRUs@aol.com
Subject: Re: NEW CAR CRAFT

what is, STRAIGHT SCOOP ?
Thanks.
Roger

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 05:52:43 EST
From: GraphixRUs@aol.com
Subject: Re: Crack in my 455 : (

DON'T TRASH THE BLOCK  !
There are shops that can  repair it.
They also repair heads.
Roger Utter

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 08:00:53 -0500
From: Benhogan <ben72@stargate.net>
Subject: Unsubsribe

Take me off this mailing list now!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 08:38:07 -0500 (EST)
From: throckmail@webtv.net (mark sopp)
Subject: Re: production numbers

does any  know if  oldsmobile kept a record of "special order" cars for
A series olds 1970 model years? if so,please post. if not,any ideas
where to start looking for it.      thanx
nugget gold 70

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 09:12:28 -0500
From: Mark Cornea <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: Olds's at Detroit Autorama

Olds list - 
	On 2/19-2/21 the 47th annual Detroit Autorama at Cobo Hall will be
hosted, the hours are  4:00-11:00 Friday 2/19, 11:00-11:00 Saturday 2/20
and 12:00-9:00 on Sunday 2/21. There will be 2 cars displayed from the
"Street Rockets", a Rallye 350 and my '70 W30. If you are in the area
and would like to see a great show, stop on in and look us up. We will
have Olds vendor catalogs available, a long with Dick Miller Racing
event fliers and info on the Street Rockets and other misc. Olds fliers.

         ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
               Mark Cornea (Dr. Decal)  OCA# 4903
                             1970 W30 (red)

                      mailto:drdecal@wwnet.net
                      mailto:mcornea@ford.com

                    Visit http://www.drdecal.com
        ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 14:17:23 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: 1032 Oldsmobile - Need Advice

>I have been offered a 1932 Olds 4-door that is in excellent condition with
>less than 25K original miles.  I have pictures of the car and it is beautiful.
>All original, never restored.  Interior is mint and exterior in excellent
>condition including paint.  Car was kept in heated garage for many many years.
>Seldom driven.  Runs great, looks great.
>
>Would this car be worth the $13,000 asking price?

That'd be a great price and description for a 3-year old Honda, never mind
an antique Olds! Of course, that's assuming you want to be taking a pristine
antique Olds to car shows and being the center of attention... :)
_______________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry   MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
http://studentweb.providence.edu/~rbarry/wheels

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 14:17:26 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Torque sequence and torque readings...

> 	Just a follow up to this thread, you should ~always~ use some type
>of sealant on any head bold, because they go into water jackets, and you
>don't want coolant coming back up through the threads,into the rocker area.

Um, that's true for Chevy motors, not Olds engines, which have no threads
going into water jackets.

>	Another note is that I break up torque sequences into third, or
>halves.  If the torque spec is for 90Ft/Lbs.  I'll first go to 30, then 60,
>then 90.  It's it's just 45 Ft/Lbs. I'll use 23, and then 45 Lbs.  

Good advice. The Olds engines used 7/16" head bolts up 'til 1976, after that
they used 1/2" head bolts. The 7/16" head bolts took 85 ft/lbs of torque,
and the 1/2" bolts took 130 ft/lbs.
_______________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry   MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
http://studentweb.providence.edu/~rbarry/wheels

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 14:17:28 GMT
From: Robert Barry <RBarry@Sequent1.Providence.Edu>
Subject: Re: Re: RE: Chevrolet 350

>Olds content....uh...Olds never did make a I-6, did they?

Of course they did, prior to 1950.
_______________________________________________
Dr. Robert Barry   MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
http://studentweb.providence.edu/~rbarry/wheels

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 09:43:15 EST
From: Joeytada@aol.com
Subject: Re: 75 H/O T-Top Gaskets

Do you know where I can get a motor minder?  That's the only option that I
don't have.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 09:48:17 EST
From: Joeytada@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds Club of Fla swap meet at Old Town

What day and time is the car show/Swap meet?  I really want to get together
with other Olds people. Thanks..

Keith

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 10:03:06 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: Re: LISTEN TO THIS C...

><<Relax Igor, just tell all the "car-guys" on campus to take the tickets off
>and throw them in the lot where the dean parks. Once the dean sees the
>litter the "ticketing" will stop sure enough.>>
>
>Maybe you could do a little fund-raiser for MADD or a similar organization.
>Find a beat-up old Jap car, preferrably one that has been wrecked by a drunk
>driver.  Put it in the lot and charge a dollar or two for people to come by
>and take a whack at it with a sledge.  Give the proceeds to worthy
anti-drunk-
>driving organization.  Hey, it's for a good cause...how can the college say
>no?

We did something like that back in college for homecoming: two cars in the
lot, and you got a number of whacks for a buck. The two cars were a VW bug
and a clapped-out '68 Cutlass station wagon. I took a whack at each car's
windsheild header panel; the top of the bug's windshield frame caved in
like a "V" after one whack, while the Olds' window frame remained unbudged
after a number of whacks with a ten-pound sledge!

After it was all over, the fraternity guys got on one side and flipped the
cars onto their roofs, and then back upright, then over, then back upright.
After all this, the VW looked like a crumpled ball of aluminum foil, while
the Olds wagon showed barely a dent! You probably could have reinstalled
the glass and driven that car home that day...

Ah, American iron!
________________________________________________
Bob Barry  	    MailTo:RBarry@Providence.Edu
http://studentweb.providence.edu/~rbarry/wheels/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 09:52:33 -0500
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Olds Straight 8: History Question

Here's one for the Olds history archivists out there.  When was the last
year Olds made a straight 8 and what was it's displacement?  From those
few I've ever met who had/drove straight eights (mostly Buicks) they
thought it was a fine smooth-running engine.  Just curious about the
Olds.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
1971 Cutlass S 350
smithtp@ix.netcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 09:05:48 -0600
From: "Greg" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: 455 roller rocker arms

I have the same setup from Comp. cams on my 350, I recommend it.  If i
remember correctly PAW has it for about $200.

- -greg

- -----Original Message-----
From: RANDY A GEISEL <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, February 12, 1999 11:16 PM
Subject: Re: 455 roller rocker arms


>
>>Check out the Comp Cams Magnum roller tipped rocker arm >ass.(part
>#1-442-16)  Keep in mind these are not full roller as the >pivot point is
>still a ball, but the tips are roller and it provides you with >the ability
>to adjust your valve train and eliminates the stock >"bridge".   Prob take
>an hour or two to do the install.
>
>
>=====================================================
>I second this..........been running these for about a year now. No
>problems.........just remember to use Loctite on the studs and I recommend
a
>set of polylocks instead of the crimp nuts that come with the kit.
>
>Randy
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 09:17:29 -0600
From: "Greg" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: MSD Ignition?

I ended up with both: An MSD triggered by an HEI.  Best setup I've ever
used.

Before the HEI, I had a mallory unilite with the MSD-6AL on it.  The
distributor was giving me variable timing indications (spark jump inside the
cap), but before I found that out, I unhooked the MSD as part of my
troubleshooting.  To my suprise the car ran a lot worse!  The MSD was
"holding" my malfuntioning system together, without it the car almost didn't
run.  After replacing the Mallory with the HEI, it runs perfect, starts on
the first crank, and never misfires.

One note about the MSD.  the mulitiple sparks only occur at lower rpms.  In
the high revs there's no time for them.  It really helps starting and
driving around town.  I also love the -AL's rev limiter, keeps me from going
"just a little more rpms" during a quick race or showing off.

- -greg

- -----Original Message-----
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, February 12, 1999 5:30 PM
Subject: MSD Ignition?


>Has anyone had any performance comparisons from a HEI to a Multiple Spark
>Discharge ignitions?
>
>Does the MSD (not the company MSD, just the technology!) ignitions actually
>help?  Do they reduce emissions?  Do they improve fuel economy?  Do they
may
>more HP?
>
>Thanks!
>Thomas Martin
>80 Turbo Trans AM
>85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
>91 Bonneville LE 3800
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 10:43:55 EST
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Re: Steering Wheel Help

Petrix, I think that i have some from a trashed wheel sitting around here let
me check and will get back with you, you can have them if they are good. Chris
CHRIS SOMMERVILLE
69 442SC
84 H/O

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 11:35:40 -0500
From: Gene Gatti <jerseydevil@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Mondello  was Re: 455 roller rocker arms

Hi Guys,
    Thanks for the responses about Summit and Jeg's carrying parts not
listed in their catalog. I didn't realize they did that. TTYL,
Gene 
   

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 08:34:55 -0800
From: "Andrew Conkey" <andrewc@novell.uidaho.edu>
Subject: window rattles...

Thanks for the replies... will look into it this spring. Waiting for old 
man winter to go away for awhile....

Date: Thu, 11 Feb 1999 06:52:49 -0800
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: window rattles

There are two places to look.  One is inside the door.  The other is 
on
the upper rear edge of the glass where there is supposed to be a 
small
anti rattle/guide clip attached to the glass.  If the clip is worn, rattle
ensues.  Look here first.  If the clip is good, you'll have to pull the
door panel and examine the regulator.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 11:55:44 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Olds Straight 8: History Question

1948   257 cid
- -----Original Message-----
From: Thomas P. Smith <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, February 13, 1999 10:07 AM
Subject: Olds Straight 8: History Question


>Here's one for the Olds history archivists out there.  When was the last
>year Olds made a straight 8 and what was it's displacement?  From those
>few I've ever met who had/drove straight eights (mostly Buicks) they
>thought it was a fine smooth-running engine.  Just curious about the
>Olds.
>
>--
>Thomas P. Smith
>1971 Cutlass S 350
>smithtp@ix.netcom.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 12:34:13 -0500
From: "Gary Couse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: NASCAR Configurations

Family;

Can anyone tell enlighten my as to the drive lines in current NASCAR
vehicles? I realize there isn't any current Olds in the line ups. Maybe I
can ready a unit or 2 to contend and bring Olds back. Are there any
restrictions as to vehicle year used? Yes, G-body are rather square compared
to the current Aero dynamic designs. That can be lessened in the nose that
would get molded for this venture.
Just watching the Busch Series NAPA 300 in Daytona. There hitting top ends @
7,000 RPM and 200+ MPH. What transmissions/rear ends are  they doing this
with. I realize since Olds hasn't been in it in years that all the engines
are other brands, but what. Anyone have some configuration figures they can
share with me?  I'll take any truthful specs you can tell me. From total car
weight, suspension aspects, Body molders, tube frame construction, to safety
equipment required.

Since it would be hard to convert this to an Olds topic, please respond to
me privately at any of the e-address below in my SIG. I assure you my e-mail
has been corrected so I am VERY interested in what you have for me. From
experience and mechanical facts, to product suppliers and sponsoring. Anyone
have any actual experience from hanging out at the owners shops to being on
a crew?

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's
Route-1, Box-615
Purling, NY 12470

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 12:16:14 -0600 (CST)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Kevin D. Wood)
Subject: Roller Rockers.

Info:
regarding Competition Cams roller rockers.
The kit part number is 1442-kit

Jegs price  $279.99
PAW price  $261.95
Summit price  $249.95

all have them in stock. 
Just figured I'd save everybody else the
research.

Nobody could tell me for sure- so you guys
that have installed them:  there is no machining
necessary with this set?  I would appreciate the
h*lp on this one.  If it is that easy I will probably
do it.  Last spring when I freshened up the motor I found wear on the
tops of a few of my
pushrods and on the rockers in the seat where
they meet the pushrods.  I don't do any racing,
but do get on it regularly, and I don't want any
surprises.

Did anybody notice any power difference,
noise difference, and anything notable with
this set installed?

Thanks!
Kevin
Dr-Olds@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 12:17:57 -0600 (CST)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Kevin D. Wood)
Subject: Re: 455 roller rocker arms

Oh yeah. One more question... Just verifying that you can fit these no
problem under the
stock valve covers...

Thanks once again!
Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 13:31:06 -0500
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Roller Rockers.

Nobody could tell me for sure- so you guys that have installed them:  there
is no machining necessary with this set?

Did anybody notice any power difference, noise difference, and anything
notable with this set installed?

=====================================================

Abosolutely positively no machine required for the Magnum rocker kit.

FWIW....If you buy polylocks, I did have to remove the baffle in the right
valve cover so the polylocks would clear. That's the only mod i
made.........valve covers were chrome Edelbrocks.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 12:40:18 -0600 (CST)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Kevin D. Wood)
Subject: Re: Roller Rockers.

I could probably make this a personal email,
but there seems to be interested on the list...

I am not sure what polylocks are.  Would you
consider these necessary for street use? or is this something more
necessary for heavy abuse
situations?  I guess I assume that these have 
something to do with keeping things tight and
in place...?

I also am using Edelbrock chrome covers and
the main reason I am, is because I got sick of
cleaning up the GOO that seems to creep out 
of the valve covers without the "stock type" baffle as included in the
Edelbrock cover.
I also have a like new set of Erson valve covers
that do no have the baffle, and I removed them
from my car only because of the baffle problem.

Appreciate any info!

Kevin
Dr-Olds@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 13:41:12 EST
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Pushrods (non- Ch*tty or Sommerville) was: Roller Rockers.

In a message dated 99-02-13 13:18:04 EST, you write:

<<<Last spring when I freshened up the motor I found wear on the
tops of a few of my pushrods and on the rockers in the seat where
they meet the pushrods.>>>

While the non-Ch*tty topic is going (sheesh!) Karl has a pushrod Q.

Are pushrods hollow tubes?

Was perusing a recent JEG's when Karl became stymied.

And at this point, MITASWELL bring up that an issue of Ch*tty-Craft way back
when Karl subscribed (only for the neat tech asides and "how it works"
articles) mentioned that the aftermarket pushrods showed slightly better in
the dyno tests. Only plausible explanation was that chrome-moly rods were
bending less than stock, resulting in marginally higher lift.

Also MITASWELL say that if they are tubes, there is an inertial advantage over
solid pushrods - a solid pushrod would contribute to valve "float" or symptoms
diagnose-able as "float" more than a hollow tube.

Oh, boy, what great timing!
Server problems here, garbage on the list.
Chris, trust that you will forgive Karl, but everything after the initial
"rip-off" post that followed the same thread was deleted outright as idiotic
babble.
So any glowing Sommerville tributes were missed.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 13:43:35 -0500
From: "Gary Couse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: Non olds: what the heck is E-bay?

Well don't cry in your Beer. Go invest now. It's still growing. 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Chris Rivier
> Sent: Friday, February 12, 1999 4:23 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Non olds: what the heck is E-bay?
> 
> 
> If you think that is exciting try:
> 
http://www.techweb.com/wire/finance/quotes/result?mode=quote&symbol=ebay

Looks like we all missed out on E-bay?

Check the charts since it went public late last year.  Should've, 
would've, could've...If you got in early it was great.  We could have 
all invested and made a bundle.  Then buy what you we want.

Just my $.02,

Chris Rivier
Austin,TX
'66 Delta 88...The BEAST is BACK!
http://www2.bladeti.com/cars/
'88 Festiva...ZIPPY 166K LAWN ORNAMENT!


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 12:49:14 -0600 (CST)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Kevin D. Wood)
Subject: Re: Pushrods (non- Ch*tty or Sommerville) was: Roller Rockers.

Likewise- mysteriously anything with the word
Ch*vy or Sommerville or Rip off has been magically disappearing from my
list as well.
The d*lete button has been in heavy use lately.

I'd like to propose a toast to anybody who likes
to put the Olds in the Olds list!

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 13:58:22 -0500
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Roller Rockers.

I am not sure what polylocks are.  Would you
consider these necessary for street use? or is this something more
necessary for heavy abuse situations?  I guess I assume that these have
something to do with keeping things tight and in place...?

=====================================================

Kevin,

Polylocks are a generic name (kinda like Kleenex)......forget what brand I
used. basically they are a big nut with an Allen screw in the top to
positively lock the nut to the rocker stud. They are about 2" tall and since
you have the Allen screw in the top, sit higher than a regular nut. You
won't see the top of the stud. Check out Summit or another catalog for a
picture. Jegs has them listed under rocker arm nut on page 85 of their
catalog.

I used them because the crimp nuts kept backing off my #5 cylinder. They run
about $50 and are cheap insurance......atleast in my mind.


As far as the valve covers.........you can probably get away with using a
thicker (or maybe double up) the gaskets. Mine only sat maybe a 1/16" too
high. You can probably reshape the baffle with BFH (or a small one too) and
gain enough clearance. I haven't had any problems with goo leaking without
the baffle.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 13:10:08 -0600
From: "Joel J. Babbitt" <joelb@flash.net>
Subject: running to hot?

I have a 65 dynamic 88 and I have a seperate temp. guage.  The car seems
to run between 210-230 degress.  I have just put a new radiator and
waterpump along with a new thermostat.  Is that temp, the right temp for
the rocket?  Thanks Joel J. Babbitt

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 14:17:59 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Cam For 330

I need a good cam for a 330, 9.8:1 compresion, Edelbrock Performer RPM intake,
Holley 650cfm Double Pumper carb, and a 150hp NOS cheater system, any ideas? I
will be driving this car alot, so i need one with a diesent idle, it doesn't
have to be smothe, just be able to move the car at low RPMs.
Kelly Erickson
1966 Cutlass
1954 Super 88 (FREE, want it?)
1968 Cutlass Supreme (dads)
http://www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 14:31:07 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Cam For 330

Lunati Bracket Master II - 224/234 @ .050, .496/.520 lift. Good vacuum and
lopey idle. I just sold mine to someone because I went radical, but it is a
great street cam. Mine was in a big block and the 330 might respond a little
more radically to that duration, but they also make one with 214/224 @ .050.

- -----Original Message-----

>
>I need a good cam for a 330, 9.8:1 compresion, Edelbrock Performer RPM
intake,
>Holley 650cfm Double Pumper carb, and a 150hp NOS cheater system, any
ideas? I
>will be driving this car alot, so i need one with a diesent idle, it
doesn't
>have to be smothe, just be able to move the car at low RPMs.
>Kelly Erickson
>1966 Cutlass
>1954 Super 88 (FREE, want it?)
>1968 Cutlass Supreme (dads)
>http://www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 14:38:29 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 roller rocker arms

In a message dated 2/13/99 12:19:35 PM Central Standard Time, Dr-
Olds@webtv.net writes:

<< 
 Oh yeah. One more question... Just verifying that you can fit these no
 problem under the
 stock valve covers...
 
 Thanks once again!
 Kevin
  >>


I had to remove the oil baffles in my stock covers for them to fit.

Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 14:41:18 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Pushrods (non- Ch*tty or Sommerville) was: Roller Rockers.

In a message dated 2/13/99 12:43:06 PM Central Standard Time,
KarlAunan@aol.com writes:

<< 
 <<<Last spring when I freshened up the motor I found wear on the
 tops of a few of my pushrods and on the rockers in the seat where
 they meet the pushrods.>>>
 
 While the non-Ch*tty topic is going (sheesh!) Karl has a pushrod Q.
 
 Are pushrods hollow tubes?
 
 Was perusing a recent JEG's when Karl became stymied.
 
 And at this point, MITASWELL bring up that an issue of Ch*tty-Craft way back
 when Karl subscribed (only for the neat tech asides and "how it works"
 articles) mentioned that the aftermarket pushrods showed slightly better in
 the dyno tests. Only plausible explanation was that chrome-moly rods were
 bending less than stock, resulting in marginally higher lift.
 
 Also MITASWELL say that if they are tubes, there is an inertial advantage
over
 solid pushrods - a solid pushrod would contribute to valve "float" or
symptoms
 diagnose-able as "float" more than a hollow tube.
 
 Oh, boy, what great timing!
 Server problems here, garbage on the list.
 Chris, trust that you will forgive Karl, but everything after the initial
 "rip-off" post that followed the same thread was deleted outright as idiotic
 babble.
 So any glowing Sommerville tributes were missed.
 
 
  >>


Yes, pushrods are hollow tubes. This is how the oil gets to the rocker arms.

Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 13:44:11 -0600
From: <mljohns2@collins.rockwell.com>
Subject: Re: Cam For 330

Would this be a good cam for a 350 bored out to 355. Everything in motor is
bone stock with about 30,000 high miles on it. It is a 1972 350 with #5
heads on it. 2.25 dual exhuast with factory 4 barrel of the 1972.




"Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com> on 02/13/99 01:31:07 PM

Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

To:   oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
cc:
Subject:  Re: Cam For 330




Lunati Bracket Master II - 224/234 @ .050, .496/.520 lift. Good vacuum and
lopey idle. I just sold mine to someone because I went radical, but it is a
great street cam. Mine was in a big block and the 330 might respond a
little
more radically to that duration, but they also make one with 214/224 @
.050.

- -----Original Message-----

>
>I need a good cam for a 330, 9.8:1 compresion, Edelbrock Performer RPM
intake,
>Holley 650cfm Double Pumper carb, and a 150hp NOS cheater system, any
ideas? I
>will be driving this car alot, so i need one with a diesent idle, it
doesn't
>have to be smothe, just be able to move the car at low RPMs.
>Kelly Erickson
>1966 Cutlass
>1954 Super 88 (FREE, want it?)
>1968 Cutlass Supreme (dads)
>http://www.angelfire.com/wa/Olds442z
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 14:47:26 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: Cam For 330

<< Lunati Bracket Master II - 224/234 @ .050, .496/.520 lift. Good vacuum and
lopey idle. I just sold mine to someone because I went radical, but it is a
great street cam. Mine was in a big block and the 330 might respond a little
more radically to that duration, but they also make one with 214/224 @ .050.>>

that's the same grind as edelbrock performer rpm cam.  it's a pretty desent
cam for a good street car.

mikeytvb@aol.com
70 442 hc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 14:53:19 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: Cam For 330

What grind is the same?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 13:03:30 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: cast iron welding....

Mike Bloomer wrote:
> 
> <snip prev. post>
> Another option is to pin the crack.  If done properly it will
> hold up fine, requires no heating, causes no warping, and
> all you need is a drill and tap.  Anybody else ever used this
> method?  I've done it on blocks and heads with never any
> problem but some people seem scared to use this method.
> Why?

I'm not sure what you mean by pinning the block but my father-in-law
watched a guy fix a cracked block using copper wire.  This was in the
40's or 50's and this fellow who had no money worked in the same garage
as Ernie and he bought a car with a cracked engine cheap.  He drilled a
hole in it and tapped it.  Then he cut a few threads onto a piece of
copper wire (large gauge maybe electrical single strand) and turned the
wire into the hole until it was so tight that it twisted off outside the
block.  The next hole was drilled to slightly overlap the previous one.

Apparently it took this fella a week of after-hours working to sew the
crack shut but when he put the engine back in the car it was fine and
never leaked.  He told Ernie the secret was that the copper expands
faster than the iron when it gets hot so as the water and the block got
hotter, and the water pressure increased, the copper was even tighter
and sealed even better.

OTOH, one of our friends who didn't drain his $4,000 BBC motor well
enough and cracked it had it welded by some guy and he didn't need to
re-bore or anything.  If fact, I'm not even sure that they pulled the
guts out of it first :0.  Of course he may have just got lucky that it
didn't crack or warp or whatever.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 15:07:17 EST
From: SOMMERVLLE@aol.com
Subject: Re: Pushrods (non- Ch*tty or Sommerville) was: Roller Rockers.

KARLIt is ok i forgive you as the list and Lance have me, yes push rods are
hollow, and are availible in various lengths or cut your own length, or even
adjustable ones. I have only seen one set of solid push rods and that was in a
old ford motor. Just my .02 cents since i saw my name. Chris

CHRIS SOMMERVILLE
69 442SC
84 H/O

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 15:26:14 -0500
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: 1932 Olds Prices (Garys questions)

Gary Couse wrote:
> 
> Hello family,
> 
> I did see that attached Pic of the 1932 Olds that apparently came through
> the list. Let me say, (with rolled up newspaper in hand), Bad Larry, Bad
> Larry. No pics through the list.
> 
> OK, That's now done. Ahhh, "I feel much better". So, to the list. I was just
> thinking (Oh No) about what that particular 1932 4 door went for new?
F series (6 cylinder) 4 door sedan base price was $955. 6139 built.
F series (6 cylinder) 4 door Patrician sedan base price was $990. 2367
built.
L series (8 cylinder) 4 door sedan base price was $1055. 1776 built.
L series (8 cylinder) 4 door Patrician sedan base price was $1090. 2364
built.
BTW, all engines were straight.  The 8 cylinder models had 2 windshield
wipers, while the 6 cylinder models only had 1.

> Was there any options from either Olds or the dealer?
Whitewall tires, 5 wheels $7.50
Whitewall tires, 6 wheels $9.00
Accessory group one (front & rear bumpers, electric clock,spare whel
lock and radiator cap lock) $33.00
Chromium plated hood doors $12.50
Rear spare tire cover (black) $12.00
Rear spare tire cover (body color) $13.00
"Trunk", actually a luggage rack (black) $30.00
"Trunk", actually a luggage rack (body color) $32.00
Fitted luggage was also available for the "trunk"
Just to name few...

> What motor'(s) & transmissions might have been available?
6 cylinder bore of 3.32, stroke of 4.13, 213cid, 74hp.
8 cylinder bore of 3, stroke of 4.25, 240cid, 87hp.

> Had synchronized Trans evolved by then?
The synchromesh 3 speed was the only available transmission.  This was
first offered in 1931.

> What spark control and carbs were available then?
6 cylinders had a single throat Stromberg downdraft carb.
8 cylinders had a Duplex downdraft carb.

> Can't tell in this pic, but were AM radios available in 1932?
Nope

> Are those steel or wooden spoke rims?
Wooden, although wire was available.

> Were White wall tires available in 32?
See options

> Was Black the only color?
No, there were a lot of colors available.

> Is that a face in the hub caps, or some aspect of cap attachment?
It's a chrome hub with the Olds logo.

- -- 
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
95 Aurora 
OCA# 30442

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 15:20:41 -0500
From: "Jason Adcock" <rocketolds@vt.edu>
Subject: Water Jacket Cleanout?

Hi everyone...

We've got one of the #4 heads (that we got from Joe P. a while back) lookin'
pretty good.  Valve springs and locks are lookin' good and the valves
themselves cleaned up nice.  Of course, we'll need new valve seals, but
that's understandable.  It's time to take a look at the water jackets,
though.  They look pretty dang grungy...kind of a sandy color.  Greg Pruett
suggested to me that we take it to the local coin wash and blast all that
crap out of all the nooks and crannies of the heads.  Sounds like a good
idea, but I have a few questions before we go down and actually do it:

1)  Should we pre-soak the water passages with any sort of cleanser (like
carb cleaner) before we power-wash it?

2)  The coin wash has all sorts of soap and de-grease settings...should we
use the engine degreaser or just go with straight high-pressure water?

Thanks in advance!

Jason Adcock
mailto:rocketolds@vt.edu
http://members.xoom.com/jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 14:19:31 -0700 (MST)
From: rigerunner@webtv.net
Subject: 69  4 4 2

I  curentley own a 1969 olds 4 4 2 .                     I am looking
for any and all info on this year 4 4 2 . I would also be interested
in,any parts realated to this year 4 4 2 . I am planning on turning this
car into a 69 hurst/olds clone.Any and all suggestions will be looked at
and replied to.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 14:29:35 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Water Jacket Cleanout?

I would be very tempted to soak them in CLR.  I believe that a component
of the scale is Calcium and CLR will dissolve it.  

My friend Pete told me to enlarge the water jacket holds going from the
block to the heads and (I believe) the heads to the intakes.  He said to
align the gasket with the bolt holes, mark the head, then remove some of
the material to try to make the holes align better with the gasket
holes.  According to him this will greatly help the water flow and keep
the engine much cooler.  I'm not recommending it since I didn't do it
(no time), but maybe others on the list have.  

On a related note, the machine shop recommended either removing the
rotators or spot welding them so they wouldn't work on my heads.  He
said that they cause the valve seats to degrade faster.  I assume that
this is something to do with the 3 angle valve job since rotators sound
like a good idea to me.  An opinions?

Jason Adcock wrote:
> 
> <snip head cleaning questions>

PS: Welcome back Jason.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 16:55:57 EST
From: ANTIQOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: badges

In a message dated 2/12/99 10:36:37 PM Eastern Standard Time,
comid@jellico.com writes:

<< 
 I'm looking for four of the badges from the new Oldsmobiles. The ones that
 are an "O" with the rocket launching through it. I believe they started with
 '97 or '98 models. I need the chrome ones (might consider gold) from the
 fenders, trunk lid, etc from a wrecked car. If anyone knows where some of
 these are, or comes across some in a yard, I'll buy them from you.
 
 
 
  >>
 I just went to the dealer and bought some, fairly cheap to. I told them I
wanted the Olds emblem from the truck of a 88 Cutlass and it worked great for
my intended use.

Everett    OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 16:56:04 -0500
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Olds Straight 8: History Question

Mr Smith

        The last year was I believe1948. In 49 they started using the new
Rocket
V-8 and the lower lines I believe only used a in line 6 cylinder.

Jim Chermack


At 09:52 AM 2/13/99 , you wrote:
>Here's one for the Olds history archivists out there.  When was the last
>year Olds made a straight 8 and what was it's displacement?  From those
>few I've ever met who had/drove straight eights (mostly Buicks) they
>thought it was a fine smooth-running engine.  Just curious about the
>Olds.
>
>--
>Thomas P. Smith
>1971 Cutlass S 350
>smithtp@ix.netcom.com
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1773
*********************************

