Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
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cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1719


oldsmobile-digest      Friday, January 15 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1719



Re: Price for Delta 88 Wagon
Re: Trailer "Queens" (Was beater..)
Re: speedo error
Re: Chicago area Oldsmonuts
Re: Robert-Shaw Thermo?
Re: Robert-Shaw Thermo? + More shock-bolt.
RE: 9000 rpm Olds
A Cool Two-tone paint job
Vacuum  Source
Re: UNBOUNCE: 307 and a 700-r4
Re: 9000 rpm Olds
Re: Vacuum  Source
Re: Water, water everywhere
Re: Trailer "Queens" (Was beater..)
Re: Water, water everywhere
RE: carb spacer..
Re: Big Car Question-'65 98 wheelcovers
Re: SV: Weather
Re: SV: Weather
Re: UNBOUNCE: 307 and a 700-r4
Re: Carb Spacer
Re: speedo error
455 w/overdrive?
Re: Trailer "Queens" (Was beater..)
RE: Robert-Shaw Thermo?
Re: Trailer "Queens" (Was beater..)
Speedo Gears...
Re: speedo error
Re: Trailer "Queens" (Was beater..)
Re: ignition coil grounding..
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
Re: speedo error
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
Re: Trailer "Queens" (Was beater..)
Re: Vacuum  Source
Re: Cold idle problems
Re: Cold idle problems
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
Re: Cold idle problems
Re: SV: Weather
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
Dream on !!!! non -Olds ,falcons broncos???????
Re: Dream on !!!! non -Olds ,falcons broncos???????
needs
Re: needs
Re: 9000 rpm Olds
Towing
Re: 9000 rpm Olds
Re: Trailer "Queens" (Was beater..)
RE: 455 w/overdrive?
Tips for Headliner installation
(72 442 F/S)  FW: non gbody, but still olds can someone forward to the classic 
list?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 11:09:47 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: Price for Delta 88 Wagon

>
>I have the opportunity to purchase a workhorse daily driver and need to
>know if the price is fair. The details:
>
A big detail is missing, Andy. What model year is it?

roger

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 09:57:35 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@UCALGARY.CA>
Subject: Re: Trailer "Queens" (Was beater..)

Great points Greg.  I love checking out properly restored cars both to find out
what I should aim for and to see what these cars looked like when they rolled
off the showroom floor.  If that's what someone wants to do I think its great
because it saves a car from the landfill and creates a reference car for the
rest of us to compare ours to.

And I like (and drive) a everyday car because that's how I enjoy it and it was
just never rare enough and in good shape enough to warrant a full resto.

So what bugs me?  The guys who buy a car and then hack it up to make a tacky
cruiser.  I especially hate cutting holes in door panels for speakers (or
external power windows) and flaring the rears.  Yikes.  My poor car suffered
both these indignities so maybe I'm prejudiced.

Next on my list are people who buy a rare car, know they should restore it
right, and never do it.  They are too busy and don't have the money so the car
just sits under the trees rusting with the engine in a hundred pieces in the
garage.  Often they tire of it and sell it cheap for parts or they get a
divorce and the other spouse has it sent to the scrapper.  Again I may be
prejudiced because a friend of mine has had a '69 W-30 sitting outside for over
10 years.  It used to be in primer but now it's just a red rusting hunk.  I'm
still holding onto the hope that he will do something before the body goes
beyond repair.

<soapbox mode off>  

Now I just need to work at getting my car fixed up before I get stoned for
being a hypocrite.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 12:17:59 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: speedo error

In a message dated 1/14/99 5:30:09 PM Central Standard Time, Mikeytvb@AOL.COM
writes:

<<   fyi  the speedo reads almost twice the
 speed i'm going. >>


    Mine reads 1/2 of my real speed....wanna swap?   ha ha
Collyn Eastham

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 11:34:30 -0600
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Chicago area Oldsmonuts

Well the roads here are sloppy and traffic (as always) is bad. The snow is
pretty much off the roads but it still can be slick in spots. just try and
stay away from downtown expressways during rush hour.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Chicago area Oldsmonuts
> Date: Friday, January 15, 1999 8:52 AM
> 
> Apparently a trip to the Chicago area is going to happen this coming
> week.  Just wonder who's up that general direction.  The way it looks
> now is I'm going up this Sunday for a week or so.  Unless someone has a
> better route, it looks like Lexington, Ky to Louisville to Indianapolis
> to northern Chicago.  If anyone has a better idea please reply to me
> directly.  Thanks.  As for Olds content, I doubt very many of them will
> be out of their nice warm garages this time of year.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 12:34:55 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Robert-Shaw Thermo?

In a message dated 1/15/99 9:38:20 AM Central Standard Time, cya442@san.rr.com
writes:

<< I am looking for the part number for a Robert-Shaw thermostat for a 455
 Olds BB.  I haven't had any luck finding one of these thermostats out
 here in SoCal so if I have the part number maybe Summit racing can
 locate one.  They don't seem to think that Robert-Shaw makes one for the
 Olds but I know there are people on this list who have used them.
 Thanks again.
  >>


I bought my RS thermostat from Summit...Part# RST-330-160*...price was $8.50

Collyn Eastham
65 Cutlass
65 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 12:36:10 EST
From: KarlAune@aol.com
Subject: Re: Robert-Shaw Thermo? + More shock-bolt.

Hi Chris & all!

<< I am looking for the part number for a Robert-Shaw thermostat for a 455
 Olds BB. >>

Sorry, not used his products, but thought he was great in "Jaws".

Olds related, Olds in shop now.
Apparently the lower bolt for the rear shock is hardware provided with most
shocks but not actually a part of the shock.
Head mech said it was a special order bolt that was not generally available at
the local crummy parts place [Karl already guessed that part].

More later, mebbe.

And Karl begs forgiveness to others who noticed that karl was online but were
unable to contact with instant-type messaging.
While Karl is doing "deathmatches" against a buddy in RI he is unable to
notice the instant messages.
Sorry.
(one was: "Please help me..." .  Oooops!)

Keep warm.
(Looking forward to the Falcons-Broncos Bowl!)

S O M

& KA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 11:36:17 -0600
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@css.mot.com>
Subject: RE: 9000 rpm Olds

After driving a 97 Cadillac STS (300 hp NorthStar), and watching in rev at
7100 rpm, and hold it without ANY signs of complaint, and sounded like it
could go higher yet, I am not suprised at all.  

That is one SWEEEEEEET motor!

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 11:40:23 -0600
From: Eric & Rosi & Jonathon <rosi@dlcwest.com>
Subject: A Cool Two-tone paint job

http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/copper.shtml

Check out this seriously cool two-tone paint

In light of driver/trailer car discussions, this is definitely on the
driver side of the fence, yet still everything's clean and working....

Eric

http://www.dlcwest.com/~jed/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 09:51:22 -0800 (PST)
From: Nari Koka <koka10@yahoo.com>
Subject: Vacuum  Source

Hi,
  I have a 82 Delta 88 V8 5L 307 4BBL.  I am not getting vacuum from
the driver side port on the front of the carburettor.  This is
supposed to drive the EGR valve.  Can someone suggest where I should
look for?

Thanks a lot!

Nari

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 11:28:09 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: 307 and a 700-r4

>I am equiping a 1983 98 as a tow car. I want to replace the 200-4r =
>transmission. Will a 700-r4 bolt to the 307 block? If not is there =
>another overdrive unit that will bolt up? Jon Hart jehart@rtelco.net


The 700-r4 will not bolt up to the 307.  The 700 is Chevy only bolt pattern
and you can do it but you must use an adapter plate.  In addition, what will
you tow and what kind of gears are you running in the back.  I don't know
how much the 307 is going to like towing.  Igor.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 (455/th400/3.23s)
1981 98 Regency (307/200-4R/propane)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 13:26:45 -0500
From: Robert Barry <rbarry@sequent1.providence.edu>
Subject: Re: 9000 rpm Olds

>Last night on speed channel, I was watching off shore racing.  The
>commentator was talking to a racer about their new engine combination and
>how the racer was planning to go for a new record for of shore boats in the
>flying kilometer.  Now just for a quick point, most of these boats run twin
>454 chevies with blowers, or real built 350 chebies.  The racer said that
>he has switched to the new OLDSMOBILE engine, that is revving to 9000 rpm's
>and will allow him a top speed of 180 mph.  
>Has anyone any info on this new type of OLDS motor. Like what size is it or
>how it stays together at 9000 rpm's.  Did anyone else see the show from the
>beginning and know more?

I'd be willing to bet that this is one of the monster-motor DRCE Olds
engines, which use Chevy BB internals, rather than the Aurora 4.0 DOHC
engine, which wouldn't be a better bet for 180mph than a supercharged 454.
There's been a lot of development work on the DRCE for the pro-stock
applications that might translate to boat racing.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 14:52:02 -0500
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Vacuum  Source

Nari,

The port you refer to supplies PORTED vacuum to the EGR.  Ported vacuum is
only present at engine speeds above idle.   The lack of a vacuum signal at
idle is normal.

Regards,
Fred

- -----Original Message-----
From: Nari Koka <koka10@yahoo.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, January 15, 1999 12:58 PM
Subject: Vacuum Source


>
>Hi,
>  I have a 82 Delta 88 V8 5L 307 4BBL.  I am not getting vacuum from
>the driver side port on the front of the carburettor.  This is
>supposed to drive the EGR valve.  Can someone suggest where I should
>look for?
>
>Thanks a lot!
>
>Nari
>
>_________________________________________________________
>DO YOU YAHOO!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 13:56:22 -0600
From: bloom9@juno.com (C K)
Subject: Re: Water, water everywhere

My guess is that it's the heater core since the water is on the passenger
side floorboard. Hope this helps.

Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 14:15:14 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Re: Trailer "Queens" (Was beater..)

Greg,

A very well worded and eloquent response.  I apologize for
all who have come across as opposed to "trailer queens"
but I don't think it was so much directed toward those like
yourself so much as the people that would never drive their
car no matter what and have never had oil in the crankcase.
You know the type, they consider their cars an investment
and not as a part of history or to me art.  I was personally
happy to see a show on speedvision about the pebble 
beach concours.  They instituted a 90 mile rally as part
of the show.  It wasn't mandatory but if their was a tie it would
go to the car that participated.  Personally I think it should 
be mandatory but again that's just my POV.  It was great 
to see all these beautiful machines actually moving down
the road.  

I think to most people that love their Olds like I do disdain
these show cars because they tend to attract an "upper
crust" type of mentality and the prices shoot up.  That makes
the prices for the less desirable cars go up also.  Add in to 
that the jerks who give you crap about modifying your 
"undesirable" car (even if it would have ended up as a parts
car anyway) and that's where the division starts to work its
way through.  I personally hate it when I see someone else
restoring a car and their parts car is nicer than what mine 
started off as.  Another dead Olds.  I think that there is enough
room for all of us here, and as long as it is keeping the cars
from the crusher, that's what's important.  Not all cars need to 
be driven every day, and not all cars need to be show winners.
Each serves their purpose and each is loved by thier owner.
It's those poeple that don't love thier Old's you have to watch out
for.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/
  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 14:44:18 -0600 (CST)
From: hitson@i1.net (roger hitson)
Subject: Re: Water, water everywhere

Fred Kemp wrote:

>My guess is that it's the heater core since the water is on the passenger
>side floorboard. Hope this helps.
>
Normally I'd agree with you Fred, but I'm pretty sure the original message 
said "driver's side."

roger

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 14:31:52 -0600 (CST)
From: blue442@webtv.net
Subject: RE: carb spacer..

- --WebTV-Mail-881156011-1728
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That's just what I had hoped for, thought a 750 carb was a little bit
little for a 454.  Got the idea from hanging out at the yamaha shop.
They have a somewhat similar setup, "V-Boost" which allows them to cram
140+ horsepower into their V-Max.

Wheee!
Jeff Carter
blue442@webtv.net 


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From: "Semantana Chris (ONEX)" <SemantanaC@tce.com>
To: "'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: RE: carb spacer..
Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 08:29:38 -0500
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>    In addition to all the info provided by Joe Padavano and others, 
> one of David Vizard's two "How to build horsepower" books points out 
> that on most dual-plane manifolds the engine never sees more than half 
> the carburetor cfm available at any one time, due to the divided 
> manifold. Adding a single-hole spacer on top of a dual-plane manifold 
> in effect lets the engine see both halves of the carburetor, 
> increasing its apparent cfm.
> 
> 
So is this also the reasoning, on dual plane intakes, to remove or grind
away part of the divider or plane if you will, like say a half an inch, from
the intake where the carb sits.  (I think someone already mentioned this is
a recent most.)  I thought I heard that Mondello recommended this also.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris/

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

- --WebTV-Mail-881156011-1728--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 15:57:39 -0500
From: robertd@bellsouth.net
Subject: Re: Big Car Question-'65 98 wheelcovers

Please take my address off your list. I appreciate the info but it is no useful
to me. Thanks, R. Davis

Chris Fair wrote:

> These were an early cast wheel used in 64-65 on a very limited number of
> models. I think they were limited to 98's and Starfires. Cool 14's, good
> design. I've only seen a few in the years I've been paying attention. I
> think they don't age so well unless well cared for because most of the ones
> I've seen or come across in boneyards have been pretty beat up.
>
> Also I note that the wheels last longer than the centers. The centers must
> be quite rare now.
>
> cf
>
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: COUPEKING@aol.com [mailto:COUPEKING@aol.com]
> > Sent: Thursday, January 14, 1999 9:43 PM
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Big Car Question-'65 98 wheelcovers
> >
> >
> > Oldsmoids-
> > Saw a very interesting set of wheels on a '65 98 today.
> > Looked like alloy
> > wheels, aluminum heavy cast with a chrome small center cap
> > and an Olds rocket
> > in a knockoff style spinner. Looked closer, and saw that it
> > was actually a
> > cast aluminum cover that was bolted to the steel wheel
> > underneath. Quite a
> > solid and handsome piece.
> > Anybody know what these were called? Any other applications?
> >
> > Peter
> > coupeking@aol.com
> >

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 15:58:05 -0500
From: robertd@bellsouth.net
Subject: Re: SV: Weather

Trond Pedersen wrote:

> > And in Calgary it's +6C (43F) with a SW wind at 46KPH (29MPH).  That's a
> > Chinook by anyone's definition:)).  Since this morning the hills have
> gone from
> > white to almost all brown.
> >
> > By tomorrow it will be spring cruising weather.  Hmmm, time to check and
> see
> > how the machine shop is doing on the 455
>
> Brrrrrrrrrr
> -29C
> But: the SUN is BACK :-)
> saw it first time today sinse 24 nov.
> 6 hole minutes.
> Hmmm spring time sone.
> were is my credit card?
> Summit here i come:-)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 16:00:18 -0500
From: robertd@bellsouth.net
Subject: Re: SV: Weather

Please take my address off your list. Unfortunately the info is not useful to
me. Thanks, R. Davis

Trond Pedersen wrote:

> > And in Calgary it's +6C (43F) with a SW wind at 46KPH (29MPH).  That's a
> > Chinook by anyone's definition:)).  Since this morning the hills have
> gone from
> > white to almost all brown.
> >
> > By tomorrow it will be spring cruising weather.  Hmmm, time to check and
> see
> > how the machine shop is doing on the 455
>
> Brrrrrrrrrr
> -29C
> But: the SUN is BACK :-)
> saw it first time today sinse 24 nov.
> 6 hole minutes.
> Hmmm spring time sone.
> were is my credit card?
> Summit here i come:-)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 16:18:06 -0500
From: robertd@bellsouth.net
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: 307 and a 700-r4

please do not send me anymore mail, sorry if i sound mean but i get too much
e-mail! thanks and have a great day.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 15:52:35 -0600 (CST)
From: blue442@webtv.net
Subject: Re: Carb Spacer

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Good dense plywood is not all that flammable.  It must be wet with gas
to ignite, unless held over fire for a long time.  It appears to be no
more flammable than a lot of fiber carb gaskets.  I got a real spacer
for my car, because I found it much easier than drilling, sawing, double
checking, etc. 


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Date: Thu, 14 Jan 1999 12:55:39 -0500
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Carb Spacer
In-Reply-To: <3087-369E2850-370@mailtod-211.iap.bryant.webtv.net>
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>You can make a cheap, or free spacer from plywood. Don't know how thick
>you can get plywood, but I've seen it up to 1/2".
>
>Jeff Carter
>blue442@webtv.net
>
>
>

HA ha ha. I did that one time back when I was in highschool. Made a spacer
out of plywood. It was a '77 beater Camaro with a 350/4sp and holley 1850
carb. I remember cutting it out with a jigsaw and drill. I don't know why
the hell I did that back then, probably trying to get the air filter to
stick up through the hood or something. I remember The first time I fired
it up after putting on my brand new spacer. It ran rough for about 30
seconds, backfired through the carb and set the gas covered plywood spacer
on fire. Well, blowing on it didn't work, but scooping dirt and gravel up
off the driveway and throwing it on the intake seemed to do the trick. ha
ha ha ha. The things you do just for a little self instruction on how NOT
to do things. I think they call that 'learning the hard way'. My advice,
Don't use plywood to make a spacer. If you want a spacer, buy a good one.
They're made for what they do and they don't cost an arm and a leg.
ha ha haaaaaaaaaa

Ed 
The Omega Man


- --WebTV-Mail-1023696833-191--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 16:52:54 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: Re: speedo error

Hello all,
 I've been following the speedo gear thread. I can relate to the lack of help 
at
the dealer parts counter. I've used the following backyard method, with good
results. Tire size, rear end ratio, etc are irrelevant with this method.

 Keep in mind that if your speedo is fast, you can slow it down by using a 
driven gear
with more teeth, or a drive gear with less teeth.

 1. Drive 1 mile on the freeway, counting the mile markers to find your
percentage of error.
 [going 10 mile to determine error is more accurate]
2. If you are 15% fast, then you need a driven gear that has 15% more
teeth than your present one,  OR a drive gear with 15% more teeth, and so on.

 Someone mentioned that there are different drive gears. I believe you can only
change so many teeth #s with any given drive gear. You may need to change
both drive, and driven gears.

 If you learn that you need to change both then you could figure out the 
"ratio" of
your present drive to driven gear count, and buy a pair of compatible 
drive/driven
gears that will give you the proper change in "ratio".

 It has worked for me.
Dave Brode
64 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 17:07:33 EST
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: 455 w/overdrive?

i wanted to know if there is a gm tranny capable of handling 500 ft/lbs of
torque?  also this must be able to bolt in place of a th-400.

mikeytvb@aol.com
70 442 hc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 17:08:00 EST
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Trailer "Queens" (Was beater..)

 I drive my Olds alittle to keep her in tune and everything running right, but
she is mostly trailered to keep the mileage down on an all original 8,900 mile
muscle Olds.  I love all Olds' wether there trailered or driven.  Harry 
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">1973 Olds Cutlass 455
4speed</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 14:15:19 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Robert-Shaw Thermo?

This seems to be correct.

>Isn't it 330-999.  Where 999 is the temp you want, like 180 degrees 
would be
>330-180.  And I believe the original replacement would be 330-192.  I'm
>about 75% sure this is the part number.


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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 15:47:06 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Trailer "Queens" (Was beater..)

  There is room for all, but I agree with Cliff.  (If I read him right).  I
only buy cars with something major wrong with them if I'm going to "hack it
up".  I have never bought a nice ss. gs. gto. or 442 because I can't afford
to do a GOOD job of restoring one.

    I love to gawk at an un-restored original that the little old lady owned
and the pro done job too.  BUT I drive "nice" fixed up common cars.

LP.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 18:10:38 -0500
From: "Gary Couse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Speedo Gears...

Well, the answers at the Olds dealership about speedo gears was about as
plentiful as finding sun + Palm trees here in the frigid stormy North East.
They need year/model specific info to pull the GM info up. There reference
Info only allows the scope of model options offered on that year including
tire size. So there is no way to enter variables like a rear gear change
higher than originally offered. Same with any tire size other than
originally on the car.

What I did get after a little digging was a gear color/tooth reference
chart. The only way to zero your speedo in is to pull the cable from the
transmission and inspect the gear colors.


Code   Drive Gear  Teeth   Color

 A      8628793     17     Red
 B      8628838     10     Purple
 C      8628891     19     Yellow
 D      8634934     13     White
 E      8639906     10     Green

Notice that there is 2 drive gears that are 10 tooth but different colors. I
do not know the reason. Though there is a reference to an adapter of some
sort that is not to common.

Code   Driven Gear  Teeth   Color

 A     25522497     45      Lt Blue
 B     25524921     28      Yellow
 C     25524922     26      Brown
 D     25524923     27      Black
 E     25524924     29      Green
 Q     25522475     34      Lt Green
 R     25522477     35      Orange
 S     25522481     37      Red
 T     25522483     38      Blue
 U     25522485     39      Brown
 V     25522487     40      Black
 W     25522489     41      Yellow
 X     25522491     42      Green
 Y     25522493     43      Purple


Remember that this is info on an 86 Cutlass. Guess that since Quincy's
Speedo is an estimated 15+ mph high so I'll need to open it up and count
gears. Since I need to slow the speedo I'll go up a few teeth on the driven
gear and see.

There is also a range of compatibility between drive and driven gear. A
particular size drive gear only works with a small range of driven gear
size. It's highly possible that with your cars original configuration that
your speedo gears are already at one end of the range or the other.

Hypothetically; Let's say my Cutlass has a Yellow drive gear indicating it
has 19 teeth. I count the Red driven gear at 37. I might want to try a Black
driven gear at 40 teeth to slow my speedo. Problem is my White 13 tooth
drive gear only accepts up to a Blue 38 tooth driven gear. I would need to
change both gears. The drive gear would need to be swapped smaller to a 17
tooth Red gear to work with the 40 tooth Black. But wait! I just sped up the
drive gear by dropping 2 teeth. I'll actually need to go higher than 40
teeth on the driven gear to compensate. Phew !:^P Karl's going to have
nightmares with this one...

What a pain. Because of the NE Winter storm I wasted no time there. I failed
in finding out whether the gear is marked with color or completely colored.
Nor did I find the gears cost range.

So long as your armed with both your teeth count you can go to your local
dealership and find out if you need change one or both to shift more than 1
or 2 teeth.

I'll peruse further on Monday.


- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Customs

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@CC-IROC-SS.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
Project Forum Delphi Site:
http://www.delphi.com/cc_iroc_ss

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 18:16:51 EST
From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Subject: Re: speedo error

Here's an idea...try a tranny repair shop.  Or maybe I'll ask at the one
my Olds is at right now.  I should be picking it up next week, I'll ask
them if they know (if no one has solved the problem by then).


 "Gary Couse" <gjcouse@francomm.com> writes:
>...pull that speedo cable 
>from the
>trany to see your color gears and tooth count. I've yet to do this and 
>don't
>know if the gear is all colored plastic or just dotted with a color. 

___________________________________________________________________
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Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 18:16:51 EST
From: dpauliso@juno.com (Dave Paulison)
Subject: Re: Trailer "Queens" (Was beater..)

 Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com> writes:
>...I was surprised to
>read some of the posts on this subject and
>the disdain most seem to have for restored cars.  

Well, I have no disdain for a restored car.  I ~love~ to see cars in
restored condition.  I won't do it to my own car (not at this time,
anyway), but I think it's absolutely wonderful that there are people who
can and are willing to do it.  Maybe some day in the future, when (if) I
buy an especially desirable/rare car, I will restore it.  But for now,
I'll just 'restify' my old Olds.  Whatever you choose to do with your car
is great!  To each his (or her) own!

Dave Paulison       1969 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme
Palm Bay, Florida   1993 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS
dpauliso@juno.com

___________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 17:41:42 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: ignition coil grounding..

John, 
Perhaps you are an E.E. but I didn't know the secondary winding was
grounded internally, I always thought that would cause a short and you
would bleed off the voltage induced in the secondary winding when the
primary magnetic field collapsed ,(to induce the high voltage in the
secondary winding) . I always believed the ground for the secondary circuit
was the the spark plug firing to the engine ground. Since I am no E.E.,
could damn sure be wrong!
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net


- ----------
> From: John Carri <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: ignition coil grounding..
> Date: Wednesday, January 13, 1999 5:00 AM

>      An ignition coil, as everyone knows, has a primary (low-voltage) 
> winding, and a secondary (high-voltage) winding. That means there are 
> FOUR wires to deal with, yet the coil only has three terminals -
> the (+) and (-) primary terminals, and the high-voltage terminal that 
> the distributor wire goes into.  The explanation is that one end of 
> BOTH windings are connected to the (+) terminal.  That's why the 
> actual case of the coil typically does not need to be grounded, though 
> doing so might decrease RF interference radiated by the coil and 
> improve your radio reception, etc.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 18:15:45 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

Gary, 
Not to make this thread any longer then it already is but I agree totally,
the 67 442 does not go anywhere, unless the 
weather is perfect, and I very feel good about it, have talked with the
psychic hot line and blah-blah-blah, etc. The 75 CS I WILL take out on
occasions not near that perfect, but it still scares the hell of out a
person, like the deer incident, Murphy's taken, (Quid Pro Quo), did the
insurance thing, coverage up the a*s, still got screwed, oh yes, an
attorney, many friends are attorneys, five years later, much money
invested, no settlement, and when you do get it, it's taken up in fees!    
  
Bitter no, honest yes!
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

- ----------
> From: Gary Couse <gjcouse@francomm.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
> Date: Wednesday, January 13, 1999 9:40 PM
> 
> I absolutely agree. I'd rather sit tall in the seat, foot to the engine
> growl and watch the heads snap trying to get a look before I'm gone with
the
> wind. Nor did I build Quincy to tag along in a trailered box. However,
times
> will exist this summer where he will need to live in a box from show to
> show. Why you ask? Well, occasionally I might not be free to motor him
from
> show to show and no one else will drive him least he gets sold. (highly
> unlikely as that will require my dead fingers being pryed free). Not to
> mention as the project prototype, Quincy is far more expensive than a
> production unit will be. There is also an issue as to "Provable value"
and
> "secure transport" as far as insurance is concerned. I can easily cover
the
> provable with receipts. Ever try to get collision & comprehensive on a
> valued $25,000 '86 G-body? Currently I carry 2 separate insurance
pollicies
> on him. Quincy is also covered by other pollicies depending where he is.
> Build & Paint facilities & home insurance also cover at those locations,
and
> Basic liability for travel, (no fault NY), and a custom written policy as
to
> his full coverage value.
> 
> I would love nothing more than to cris/cross the US this summer to the
tunes
> on the stereo and growl of the exhaust. Doing so as I head to the major
> shows displaying Quincy. Sheer street level risk from the other road nuts
> that could care less, dictates occasional secure transport for long
> distance. I do not, nor ever will consider Quincy a "Trailer Queen" as he
> will run with the best. Occasionally doing so at a few show/strip
locations.
> At the same token, Quincy will put many miles on in testament to road
> worthiness. It's a thin line of risk. I possess a class "A" license with
all
> amenities including class B & motorcycle. I've spent better than 15 years
> traveling this country with never an avoidable incident, driving nearly
> everything imaginable. Murphy's Law will dictate that since the cargo is
MY
> investment, something will go wrong. There isn't a nut or screw that
doesn't
> have my finger print on it. Or the blood from my knuckles.
> 
> So remember, Not all transported cars are Queens. Some are Kings with the
> snot to prove it. I do agree though. I'd rather drive than ride any day!
> Good thing I have a few other Olds to play in...
> 
> -----Regards,
> 
> Gary J. Couse
> Couse Customs
> 
> ICQ# 5209322
> gjcouse@CC-IROC-SS.com
> 
> Custom Conversion Prototype:
> CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
> http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
> 
> G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
> For free Win95-98 Support, come visit < GJC > at:
> http://www.salemcounty.com/win95board/multipage1.html
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 19:15:01 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: speedo error

In a message dated 1/15/99 3:19:22 PM Pacific Standard Time, dpauliso@juno.com
writes:

<< Here's an idea...try a tranny repair shop.  Or maybe I'll ask at the one
 my Olds is at right now.  I should be picking it up next week, I'll ask
 them if they know (if no one has solved the problem by then). >>

     The tranny shop I deal with has all this info in a book. They can look up
the gear color and tooth count etc. If you have problems with larger/smaller
diameter tires, use a gear calculator, (
<A HREF="http://www.mgb.bc.ca/misc/tirecalc.html">The MGB Experience:
Tire/Gear Calculator</A>) then use that as your final drive ratio to get the
right gears. I THINK that all makes sense. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 18:20:49 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

Mark, 
Since we have two Lous I shall change my handle to " Master Lou", if Ray
can, right????.
Lou

- ----------
> From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
> Yeah I thought of that after I sent the post.
> No "slam" intended Lou.
> 
> Mark
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 20:01:22 -0500
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Trailer "Queens" (Was beater..)

- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>


<snip eloquent digression>

>I guess the point to all my babbling here
>is that everybody has a vision for their own
>project.  And just because somebody else has
>a different vision for theirs, that does not
>make anybody wrong


Well put Greg.

And as others have pointed out, sometimes your own vision changes over time.

I only own one car, my Delta. In Spring I fix the stuff that broke in
Winter. In Summer, I go a little further toward restoration. But hard as I
try, I don't think she'll ever be show worthy. Not when there's so many
pristeen "sunny day" cars as my competition. I sincerely wish there were
judging classes for the venerable "daily driver".

I also own a fully restored classic motorcycle, a '75 Norton. Bought it new
and rode it as my daily driver up till the first snow fall for the first 3
years. Rode it on a vacation from Connecticut to Ontario in the rain one
year. I used to sneer at the wimps who only rode on nice days.

Then I grew up, got a real job, bought a car (78 Omega), and the Norton went
under cover. Now it only comes out for shows and when I need a dose of
testosterone. Don't own a trailer, but I'll ride 5 miles out of my way to
avoid a puddle. It just takes too damn long to clean it afterward.

drc
85 Delta 88
75 Norton 850 Commando
(both can be seen at http://pages.cthome.net/davecullen/ )

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 16:59:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Nari Koka <koka10@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Vacuum  Source

Thanks a lot Fred!

Naren



- ---Frederick Nissen <FSNissen@Worldnet.ATT.NET> wrote:
>
> Nari,
> 
> The port you refer to supplies PORTED vacuum to the EGR.  Ported
vacuum is
> only present at engine speeds above idle.   The lack of a vacuum
signal at
> idle is normal.
> 
> Regards,
> Fred
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Nari Koka <koka10@yahoo.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Friday, January 15, 1999 12:58 PM
> Subject: Vacuum Source
> 
> 
> >
> >Hi,
> >  I have a 82 Delta 88 V8 5L 307 4BBL.  I am not getting vacuum from
> >the driver side port on the front of the carburettor.  This is
> >supposed to drive the EGR valve.  Can someone suggest where I should
> >look for?
> >
> >Thanks a lot!
> >
> >Nari
> >
> >_________________________________________________________
> >DO YOU YAHOO!?
> >Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
> >
> 
> 

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 17:02:54 -0800 (PST)
From: Nari Koka <koka10@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Cold idle problems

Thanks a lot David,
  I found out the choke pull off is not working.  I replaced it and
cleaned the vacuum - it does not have the cold running problems after
more than a year.  Thanks very much.  Now I am adjusting the choke to
the correct setting.

Thanks,
Nari




- ---David Brown <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu> wrote:
>
> Sounds like one thing causing this is that the choke is set too lean
or
> not working correctly. Is this an electric choke? If not, it's
simple to
> adjust.
> 
> Remove air cleaner, locate choke on right side of engine. Locate and
> note current setting (light line on choke wheel vs position on choke
> housing). Loosen the three little screws a bit, rotate wheel an 1/8",
> tighten three screws. Test. Readjust until it starts and doesn't die.
> This will take several days or cool downs.
> 
> The best bet is to find the recommended setting for your vehicle.
Maybe
> it's on the emissions sticker - usually located on the radiator shroud
> shelf. It will also be in the '82 chassis manual. Outside of that, you
> could just try 1 notch rich. Make sure you know what a rich or lean
> setting is by looking at the choke housing. A too rich setting will
show
> up when the weather gets warm and the engine hesitates when
> accelerating, just after the engine begins to warm up (1-2 minutes
after
> starting). Just back it off a 1/2 notch or so.
> 
> You wrote:
> ----------
> I am new to car repairs.  I am working on my 82 Olds Delta 88 to fix
> the cold running problems - more obvious in the winter.  The car over
> all is running great.   It has a V8 5 liter engine, 4 barrel carb.
> It starts in the morning and stops right away.  After giving gas it
> starts and stops again.  After I do this several times and pressing
> gas pedal a lot it finally stays on.  Once the engine is hot, there is
> no problem.
> --
> David Brown          Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
>           Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
> http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
> Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
>            ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
> 

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 17:04:52 -0800 (PST)
From: Nari Koka <koka10@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Cold idle problems

Thanks a lot Dave,
  I found out the choke pull off is not working.  I replaced it and
cleaned the vacuum - it does not have the cold running problems after
more than a year.  Thanks very much.  Now I am adjusting the choke to
the correct setting.  After that I will work on getting the fast idle
correct.

Thanks,
Nari




- ---Dave Cullen <david.cullen@snet.net> wrote:
>
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Nari Koka <koka10@yahoo.com>
> 
> 
> >I am new to car repairs.  I am working on my 82 Olds Delta 88 to fix
> >the cold running problems - more obvious in the winter.  The car over
> >all is running great.   It has a V8 5 liter engine, 4 barrel carb.
> 
> 
> And a fine vehicle that is.
> 
> >It starts in the morning and stops right away.  After giving gas it
> >starts and stops again.  After I do this several times and pressing
> >gas pedal a lot it finally stays on.  Once the engine is hot, there
is
> >no problem.
> 
> 
> Sounds like the choke is not working correctly.
> 
> >After the engine starts, the idling is slow and after some time, it
> >increases - I would expect it the other
> >way.
> >
> >Can anyone tell me how the cold idle is supposed to work?
> 
> The cold choke pulls the air flap (choke valve) closed and sets the
throttle
> shaft on a fast idle cam. After starting, the vacuum break sets the
initial
> choke valve openning. As the engine warms up, the choke valve opens
more and
> the fast idle cam falls to lower steps so idle speed goes down.
Somewhere in
> that mechanism - choke, choke valve, vacuum break, - is likely your
problem.
> 
> 
> >The vacuum wiring was a mess.  When I looked at the diagram under the
> >hood, there is a component marked DVDV that should be between the
> >vacuum port and the idle load compensator (ILC).  That is missing on
> >this car and I could not get the dealer find it for me.  It seems
like
> >the ILC is always active (retracted).
> 
> The ILC is normally pulled in, and pops out after 8 seconds of high
vacuum
> (throtle closed) on the highway (going down a long hill). The DVDV
is a
> vacuum delay valve that times this action. Not your problem right now.
> 
> > What is the role of vacuum on
> >this car?
> 
> Same as on any car. LOTS of things depend on vacuum.
> 
> >
> > What is the vaccum break unit?
> >
> 
> The two vacuum diaphram do-hickeys on the passenger side of the carb
are
> "vacuum break" units. The front one controls the 4-barrel's
secondary air
> valves, the rear one controls the choke plates. The latter is
cotrolled by
> the computer, through a vacuum solenoid. It should activate right
after
> starting.
> 
> >I could not find a book that explains how the cold start and idle
work
> >on this car.  There are very few references to this car in the
> >manuals.  Are there other cars that are exactly the same and has more
> >manuals available?
> 
> 
> Factory service manuals should still be available from Helm
Publications: :
> www.helminc.com/
> 
> drc
> 
> 
> 
> 

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 20:10:25 EST
From: Lou0118@aol.com
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

In a message dated 1/15/99 7:19:56 PM Eastern Standard Time,
lbiggs@intertek.net writes:

<< Mark, 
 Since we have two Lous I shall change my handle to " Master Lou", if Ray
 can, right????.
 Lou
  >>


Should I be "Mister Lou" ??

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 17:11:41 -0800 (PST)
From: Nari Koka <koka10@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Cold idle problems

Thanks a lot Lou,
  I found out the choke pull off is not working.  I replaced it and
cleaned the vacuum - it does not have the cold running problems after
more than a year.  Thanks very much.  Now I am adjusting the choke to
the correct setting.

Thanks,
Nari




- ---Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net> wrote:
>
> Nari, 
> Acceleration pump or choke, sound more like choke since idle speed
> increases as engine warms up, fast idle isn't working right, and
engine
> speed will pick up just from the engine warming up, 
> Lou
> ----------
> > From: Nari Koka <koka10@yahoo.com>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Cold idle problems
> > Date: Wednesday, January 06, 1999 9:08 PM
> > 
> > I am new to car repairs.  I am working on my 82 Olds Delta 88 to fix
> > the cold running problems - more obvious in the winter.  The car
over
> > all is running great.   It has a V8 5 liter engine, 4 barrel carb.
> > 
> > It starts in the morning and stops right away.  After giving gas it
> > starts and stops again.  After I do this several times and pressing
> > gas pedal a lot it finally stays on.  Once the engine is hot,
there is
> > no problem.
> > During this period if I tried to press the accelerator it back fires
> > into the carburettor very loudly.
> > 
> > After the engine starts, the idling is slow and after some time, it
> > increases - I would expect it the other 
> > way.
> > 
> > Can anyone tell me how the cold idle is supposed to work?
> > 
> > The vacuum wiring was a mess.  When I looked at the diagram under
the
> > hood, there is a component marked DVDV that should be between the
> > vacuum port and the idle load compensator (ILC).  That is missing on
> > this car and I could not get the dealer find it for me.  It seems
like
> > the ILC is always active (retracted).  What is the role of vacuum on
> > this car?  What is the vaccum break unit?
> > 
> > I could not find a book that explains how the cold start and idle
work
> > on this car.  There are very few references to this car in the
> > manuals.  Are there other cars that are exactly the same and has
more
> > manuals avaialbe?
> > 
> > Thanks very much
> > Naren
> > _________________________________________________________
> > DO YOU YAHOO!?
> > Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
> 

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Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 19:21:44 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: SV: Weather

R Davis:
Apparently you have not read the list as thoroughly as you should have!
there's more here!
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net


- ----------
> From: robertd@bellsouth.net
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: SV: Weather
> Date: Friday, January 15, 1999 3:00 PM
> 
> Please take my address off your list. Unfortunately the info is not
useful to
> me. Thanks, R. Davis
> 
> Trond Pedersen wrote:
> 
> > > And in Calgary it's +6C (43F) with a SW wind at 46KPH (29MPH). 
That's a
> > > Chinook by anyone's definition:)).  Since this morning the hills have
> > gone from
> > > white to almost all brown.
> > >
> > > By tomorrow it will be spring cruising weather.  Hmmm, time to check
and
> > see
> > > how the machine shop is doing on the 455
> >
> > Brrrrrrrrrr
> > -29C
> > But: the SUN is BACK :-)
> > saw it first time today sinse 24 nov.
> > 6 hole minutes.
> > Hmmm spring time sone.
> > were is my credit card?
> > Summit here i come:-)
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 19:27:40 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

Lou, 
That would work.  Anyone with the name Lou should be respected and treated
with great honor. Just doesn't work here! 
Lou

- ----------
> From: Lou0118@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?
> Date: Friday, January 15, 1999 7:10 PM
> 
> In a message dated 1/15/99 7:19:56 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> lbiggs@intertek.net writes:
> 
> << Mark, 
>  Since we have two Lous I shall change my handle to " Master Lou", if Ray
>  can, right????.
>  Lou
>   >>
> 
> 
> Should I be "Mister Lou" ??
> 
> Lou Principe
> 69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 20:34:54 EST
From: Lou0118@aol.com
Subject: Re: Beater vs. Restored: Opinions?

In a message dated 1/15/99 8:27:01 PM Eastern Standard Time,
lbiggs@intertek.net writes:

<< Lou, 
 That would work.  Anyone with the name Lou should be respected and treated
 with great honor. Just doesn't work here! 
 Lou >>

Lou,
I couldn't agree with you more.
Lou

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 21:29:25 EST
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Dream on !!!! non -Olds ,falcons broncos???????

In a message dated 1/15/99 12:43:21 PM Eastern Standard Time, KarlAune@aol.com
writes:

<< 
 Keep warm.
 (Looking forward to the Falcons-Broncos Bowl!)
  >>
You mean JETS falcons................
J - E - T - S  JETS JETS JETS !!!!!!!

Bernie 67, 86 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 21:41:03 -0500
From: Jeff Mullenix <muxx@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Dream on !!!! non -Olds ,falcons broncos???????

At 09:29 PM 1/15/1999 EST, you wrote:
>In a message dated 1/15/99 12:43:21 PM Eastern Standard Time,
KarlAune@aol.com
>writes:
>
><< 
> Keep warm.
> (Looking forward to the Falcons-Broncos Bowl!)
>  >>
>You mean JETS falcons................
>J - E - T - S  JETS JETS JETS !!!!!!!
>
>Bernie 67, 86 442

Dahahahah,    Minnesota!

Jeff

>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 22:12:11 -0500
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: needs

I need a Holley DP, 850+ CFM, in rebuildable condition. Can anyone on the
list help?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 22:14:32 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: needs

nope, i got a 650dp, but its all mine, sorry

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 22:13:10 EST
From: GraphixRUs@aol.com
Subject: Re: 9000 rpm Olds

It's probably the   Aurora.
There are a couple of bore, stroke configurations.
I have read  that with turob charging they arre capable of 1500  hp. & maybe
more.
Roger 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 21:54:10 -0500
From: Jonathan Hart <jehart@RTelco.Net>
Subject: Towing

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0046_01BE40D1.94C16F40
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Thanks for the info on the 700-r4 Greg. The 307 with the factory gear in =
my 83 98 really hurts at highway speed lugging around my 20 foot pontoon =
boat. I am going to put dual exhaust and flowmasters and change the =
factory 2.73 gear to a 3.42 or 3.73. Has anyone put a 3.73 in this =
application? I am curious about the tack speed in normal drive at 60 =
mph.

Thanks, Jon Hart
1983 98
1972 Chevelle
1998 Malibu
1990 Mustang Convertible

- ------=_NextPart_000_0046_01BE40D1.94C16F40
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3612.1700"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks for the info on the 700-r4 =
Greg. The 307=20
with the factory gear in my 83 98 really hurts at highway speed lugging =
around=20
my 20 foot pontoon boat. I am going to put dual exhaust and flowmasters =
and=20
change the factory 2.73 gear to a 3.42 or 3.73. Has anyone put a 3.73 in =
this=20
application? I am curious about the tack speed in normal drive at 60=20
mph.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks, Jon Hart</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>1983 98</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>1972 Chevelle</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>1998 Malibu</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>1990 Mustang=20
Convertible</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0046_01BE40D1.94C16F40--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 22:19:16 EST
From: Gutlass66@aol.com
Subject: Re: 9000 rpm Olds

1500? I dont think so, the aurora is under 4.5litre, i dont think you can get
that much

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 22:24:14 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Trailer "Queens" (Was beater..)

Dave Paulison wrote:
> 
>  Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com> writes:
> >...I was surprised to
> >read some of the posts on this subject and
> >the disdain most seem to have for restored cars.
> 
> Well, I have no disdain for a restored car.  I ~love~ to see cars in
> restored condition.  I won't do it to my own car (not at this time,
> anyway), but I think it's absolutely wonderful that there are people who
> can and are willing to do it.  Maybe some day in the future, when (if) I
> buy an especially desirable/rare car, I will restore it.  But for now,
> I'll just 'restify' my old Olds.  Whatever you choose to do with your car
> is great!  To each his (or her) own!


Isn't it a pain to be politically correct in these times?  Sure adds a
lot of words to any commentary.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 22:23:30 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: 455 w/overdrive?

200-4R.  Can;t handle 500 ft-lb's as is.  Must build it!  Talk to GN guys!

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass (hybernating)
84 Calais ($200!)
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Mikeytvb@aol.com
Sent: Friday, January 15, 1999 5:08 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 455 w/overdrive?


i wanted to know if there is a gm tranny capable of handling 500 ft/lbs of
torque?  also this must be able to bolt in place of a th-400.

mikeytvb@aol.com
70 442 hc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 22:23:06 EST
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Tips for Headliner installation

	Can anybody offer any tips on installing tips on a 1970 Cutlass S? The
interior is gutted along w/ both windshields removed. I am starting to take
the old headliner down. Any tips on how to get the rods out? I am sure someone
out there has done this, and I have to believe that this will be easier with
the interior out. If anyone can offer and h*lp or suggestions I would
appreciate it!
Thanks,
Jim McKeague
1970 Rallye 350
1970 Cutlass S W-31

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 15 Jan 1999 22:26:09 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: (72 442 F/S)  FW: non gbody, but still olds can someone forward to 
the classic list?

Thanks to Keith Grant

- -----Original Message-----
From: Keith Grant [mailto:gofastgoolds@hotmail.com] 
>Hi,
>
>I saw this ad on Classifieds2000 (http://www.classifieds2000.com),
>the largest FREE classifieds and auctions service on the Internet.
>I thought you might be interested in checking it out.
>
>
>
>1972 Oldsmobile 442, 16K miles, $7,000, Palmyra, MO
>
>For the full ad, go to:
>http://www.classifieds2000.com/cgi-cls/ad.exe?P1+C14+R382051
>
>From:    
>         hoodlum_69@hotmail.com
>


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------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1719
*********************************

