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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1722


oldsmobile-digest      Monday, January 18 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1722



Toro engine
Re: F-41/sway bars
Re: Th200-R4 in Chevy Truck LONG
87 442 F/S in PA
RE: 88 Cutlass Classic F/S in Philadelphia
Re: F-41/sway bars
Getting off the list for a while
Non-Olds
Power Steering
Re: Roaring heater core
Non Olds
Re: Non Olds
Re: My Birthday Present
Re: My Birthday Present
Re: My Birthday Present
1968 Ignition Ring
Re: F-41/sway bars & steering boxes
"gen" light on
Re: 1968 Ignition Ring
Re: 1968 Ignition Ring
Re: 1968 Ignition Ring
Engine Swap
Re: 88 Cutlass GT (long)
Re: HEI Swap.  Real Life Benefits?
Olds powered Chevy truck
Re: Rally Pac Wiring
Re: Answer: per your request 
Re: Engine Swap
Re: 1968 Ignition Ring
Re: Engine Swap
Re: F-41/sway bars & steering boxes
Re: 1968 Ignition Ring
Sandblasting SSII wheels
Big car show
Re: "gen" light on
Re: 1968 Ignition Ring ( taillight lenses)
Re: HEI Swap. Real Life Benefits?
RE: Non Olds
RE: Engine Swap
RE: 88 Cutlass GT (long)
Re: HEI Swap.  Real Life Benefits?
Re: F-41/sway bars & steering boxes
Motor mounts
Re: HEI Swap. Real Life Benefits?
Re: Tips for Headliner installation
Re: Towing
Please remove me from your list
Got "Lightning Rods" need shop manual page
Re: HEI Swap.  Real Life Benefits?
shop equip.
RE: HEI Swap. Real Life Benefits?
Ring & Pinion Swapping Trivia
Tips for headliner repair?
Re: Olds powered Chevy truck
Re: Ring & Pinion Swapping Trivia
Re: '71 Olds ID
Re: Olds powered Chevy truck
Impala SS Lowering Springs and Air Bags
Re: Engine Swap
Re: '71 Olds ID
Re: HEI Swap.  Real Life Benefits?
Re: 1968 Ignition Ring
1968 Ignition Ring Rebuttal
Re: '71 Olds ID

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 13:47:02 -0500
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Toro engine

Hey gang,

            I just returned with a 68' Toro
 engine. Does anyone have a need for the
exhaust manifolds ??  The car can be had
for nothing - Philadelphia suburbs - I had 
no room to put her...

The General    :o{)}

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 14:00:27 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: F-41/sway bars

In a message dated 1/17/99 8:31:03 AM Pacific Standard Time, cshankle@home.com
writes:

<< The sway bars are pretty much telltale signs that you have F41.  I don't
 think the rear sway bar was a seperate option.  Also, the F41 came with
 stiffer springs and a quicker steering box than the regular ones.
 Brian. >>

      Thanks..makes sense. Is there a casting number visible on the box to
tell one what it is, or are the internals the difference? Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 14:04:23 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Th200-R4 in Chevy Truck LONG

In a message dated 1/17/99 8:43:11 AM Pacific Standard Time, Bbymks4@aol.com
writes:

<<      An Olds diesel truck ? What are those?
      G.M.C.?    I guess that a 455 would bolt right in !!
      just curious.....thanks from......Steve M.
  >>

      Although I believe we may be getting off topic, since there isn't much
traffic...Yes, Gm trucks, (I assume Chev and GMC) before the advent of the 6.2
litre diesel, used the Olds 350..think it was up until mid 80's. Most you will
see have been converted to Olds gas diesels..fairly common when the diesels
quit working. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 14:09:05 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: 87 442 F/S in PA

An add from the autoshopper.  Believe this is in the Lansdale area,
Montgomery County, PA, north of Philly, about 30 minutes.

ONE OF A KIND-last year built, 1987 Olds 442, one owner, exc cond, all
options, Kenwood CD/speakers, current inspection, maint history/GM service
history manuals, great running/sound, 307 V8 engine, $5500, (215)361-2000
- -1A2OSOSO58-

I suppose that's the car number at the place...

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass (hybernating)
84 Calais ($200!)
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 14:25:01 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: 88 Cutlass Classic F/S in Philadelphia

An add from the autoshopper. 4101 Kensington Ave. in Philly

1988 Olds Cutlass Supreme Classic V8, auto w/OD, ps, pb, air, p-seat,
p-lcks, p-win, cruise, tilt, cassette, wire whls, deluxe cloth, 1/2 vinyl
top, extra clean, must see! Full Price:
$2495

Not a bad deal at all.  Car looks alright judging by the little B+W photo...


Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass (hybernating)
84 Calais ($200!)
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 15:18:39 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: F-41/sway bars

I wish I knew about the casting numbers.....I know the internals are
different but couldn't tell you how.  If anyone else knows about the
casting numbers on the F41 steering box as opposed to standard ones,
PLEASE let us know.
Thanks,
Brian.

DYeager535@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 1/17/99 8:31:03 AM Pacific Standard Time, 
cshankle@home.com
> writes:
> 
> << The sway bars are pretty much telltale signs that you have F41.  I don't
>  think the rear sway bar was a seperate option.  Also, the F41 came with
>  stiffer springs and a quicker steering box than the regular ones.
>  Brian. >>
> 
>       Thanks..makes sense. Is there a casting number visible on the box to
> tell one what it is, or are the internals the difference? Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 15:35:27 -0500
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Getting off the list for a while

Gang,

I've got to get off the list for a while as I will be out of town.  If
anyone needs to get me, please email me directly.  And to make this all
more fun, my mailbox has blown an electronic fuse again and has
disappearred into the cyberspace wasteland.  It will take a couple hours
to fix it and I should have left 4 hours ago.  If I am supposed to get
back to anyone, resend the mail because I don't have it anymore.  Now to
threaten everyone, I'll be back sometime in the next two weeks.  :)
Y'all be careful now, ya hear.

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, Ky
dstaxpro@lex.infi.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 15:27:35 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Non-Olds

Peter and all:
Atlanta!!!!, we'll I'll be dipped in ****, so much for my predictions!
Congrats, Peter, some home boys got it.
Master Lou
lbiggs@intertek.net
PS Atlanta and the Jets??

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 14:32:54 -0600
From: <barbw@uswest.net>
Subject: Power Steering

The sales brochure for 1976 says the Cutlass Salon came equipped with
quick-ratio power steering.  What is the difference between the quick
ratio steering and standard steering??  When replacing the gear box, is
there an I.D. number or some other feature that distinguishes the quick
ratio gear box from the standard gear box??

I will be replacing the gear box this week and want to be sure Im
getting a quick-ratio gear box.  What is your guesstimate of an expected
lifespan for (a) a replacement gear box?  and  (b) a replacement power
steering hose??

TIA for your input.

Barb
'76 Cutlass Salon

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 15:43:22 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Roaring heater core

Peter,
Sounds like air in the system, how to get it out, don't know, someone here
should.
Lou Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net

> From: Peter Berusch <pber710840@email.msn.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Roaring heater core

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 16:51:59 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Non Olds

No one here, all are drinking and watching football games, doing both!
Master Lou
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 18:08:21 -0800
From: "Peter Berusch" <pber710840@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Non Olds

Y'all need to kiss mah bootie.  The fahcones kicked butt.  Doin' thuh duhty
buhrd, Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net>
To: Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, January 17, 1999 2:53 PM
Subject: Non Olds


>No one here, all are drinking and watching football games, doing both!
>Master Lou
>lbiggs@intertek.net
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 18:21:04 -0500
From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: My Birthday Present

Kurt

        Sounds like you have a very great wife, and Happy Birthday. I too
have a
wife that does things like that. It's great. I had a bum OAI hood on my SX and
will I was gone she bought a mint original from a friend and took the car back
to the guy who painted it and had him redo the hood. I came home and knew my
wife would be waiting and a buddy noticed that the blue beast was in the
parking lot. I told him there was no way. It was in the garage with no hood. I
looked through a set of binoculars (I was coming home from a 6 month navy
deployment) and I'll be darned if the thing was in the front row all shined up
with the new hood. My jaw dropped. So I have to be thankful I have one of those
wives that does things like that. Hope you enjoy your new ride.

Jim Chermack 

At 12:28 PM 1/17/99 , you wrote:
>My wife got me an early birthday present yesterday, a '95 Aurora.  Up
>until today, my 442 has been my daily driver.  With the Aurora, I'll be
>able to take th 442 off the road to do some work on it.
>
>The Aurora weighs more than my 442 (3946 lbs), has a much smaller
>engine.  While it can't keep up with my 442, it does have respectable
>acceleration.
>
>One interesting note is the engine is 244 cubic inches, 442 backwards! 
>-- 
>Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
>71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
>95 Aurora 
>OCA# 30442
>
>*****************************************************
>* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
>*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 17:37:33 -0600
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: My Birthday Present

Jim, 
Happy Birthday, birthday boy!!
Master Lou
lbiggs@intertek.net

- ----------
> From: Jim or Joanne Chermack <chermac@exis.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: My Birthday Present

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 16:39:59 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: My Birthday Present

<stories of wives buying Olds's and fixing them up for their husbands snipped>

You are both very lucky men!

My wife's great too.  When I told her that how much it would cost to rebuild a
455 for the Olds she said "Well then we should drop the collectors insurance
and drive it next summer."  She's not going to get an argument from me!

Can you imagine being married to someone who complained about "your old car" ? 
Didn't think so.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 18:45:03 EST
From: MrExMt@aol.com
Subject: 1968 Ignition Ring

Hi all,
here is some thing for all who have a '68 cutlass/442, I have just finished up
on 4 years work on reproducing this part that all who own a '68 know about:
Its the ignition ring, which always are loose, cracked or have stripped
threads! I have reproduced it exactly and am now selling them, with detailed
instructions and a installition tool. It black in color with the silver trim &
are identical to the original but have no part number stamped on the back.
Price is $30.00 postage paid.
If you have any questions or want to purchase it, please e-mail me at:
mrexmt@aol.com
Thank you,
Leigh Tenenholtz

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 19:03:40 -0500
From: "R. Grant" <kgrant442@home.com>
Subject: Re: F-41/sway bars & steering boxes

I'm about 75% sure that the W41 steering box has 4 or 5 bolts to hold down
the top plate, wear as the standard box is held together with a c-clip.

Kevin Grant
80 Cutlass Supreme


- -----Original Message-----
From: DYeager535@aol.com <DYeager535@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: January 17, 1999 2:01 PM
Subject: Re: F-41/sway bars


>In a message dated 1/17/99 8:31:03 AM Pacific Standard Time,
cshankle@home.com
>writes:
>
><< The sway bars are pretty much telltale signs that you have F41.  I don't
> think the rear sway bar was a seperate option.  Also, the F41 came with
> stiffer springs and a quicker steering box than the regular ones.
> Brian. >>
>
>      Thanks..makes sense. Is there a casting number visible on the box to
>tell one what it is, or are the internals the difference? Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 19:10:32 -0500
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: "gen" light on

List,

        The "gen" light came on in my 67'
Cutlass........replaced voltage regulator
and alternator......."gen" light still on...
Volt gauge show 14.5 ..... have no amp
gage........car starts and runs fine....
any clues ?????

Tanks
The General    :o{)}

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 19:07:01 -0500
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <tjacquillard@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: 1968 Ignition Ring

MrExMt@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
> here is some thing for all who have a '68 cutlass/442, I have just finished 
up
> on 4 years work on reproducing this part that all who own a '68 know about:
> Its the ignition ring, which always are loose, cracked or have stripped
> threads! I have reproduced it exactly and am now selling them, with detailed
> instructions and a installition tool. It black in color with the silver trim 
&
> are identical to the original but have no part number stamped on the back.
> Price is $30.00 postage paid.
> If you have any questions or want to purchase it, please e-mail me at:
> mrexmt@aol.com
> Thank you,
> Leigh Tenenholtz
OUCH, $30 for plastic? Sorry, I will deal with it.
T.J.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 19:56:15 -0500 (EST)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Re: 1968 Ignition Ring

At 07:07 PM 1/17/99 -0500, you wrote:
>MrExMt@aol.com wrote:
>> 
>> Hi all,
>> here is some thing for all who have a '68 cutlass/442, I have just
finished up
>> on 4 years work on reproducing this part that all who own a '68 know about:
>> Its the ignition ring, which always are loose, cracked or have stripped
>> threads! I have reproduced it exactly and am now selling them, with detailed
>> instructions and a installition tool. It black in color with the silver
trim &
>> are identical to the original but have no part number stamped on the back.
>> Price is $30.00 postage paid.
>> If you have any questions or want to purchase it, please e-mail me at:
>> mrexmt@aol.com
>> Thank you,
>> Leigh Tenenholtz


>OUCH, $30 for plastic? Sorry, I will deal with it.
>T.J.


Not to undermine anyone's efforts to make a buck here, but there's someone
who remakes these in aluminum (may be Leigh?). You can get them from Fusick
for $39.95. Bought one myself.

It's nice not having to use two hands to start the car now.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 17:54:49 -0700
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: 1968 Ignition Ring

THOMAS JACQUILLARD wrote:
> 
> OUCH, $30 for plastic? Sorry, I will deal with it.

$30.00 for a (hopefully) good reproduction of a hard to get piece for a 30 year
old car sounds pretty good to me.  Yeah it hurts but the alternative is never
getting a good one or paying through the nose.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit) (soon to be a 455 :)
http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 20:07:01 EST
From: CutlassSX@aol.com
Subject: Engine Swap

How hard is it to swap a 350 Rocket in a 81 Cutlass with a 3.8 Buick V6....and
whats involved?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 20:23:01 -0500
From: "Bill Reilly" <wjreilly@erols.com>
Subject: Re: 88 Cutlass GT (long)

- ----Original Message-----
From: Joe Centanni <jacentan@crown.icongrp.com>
To: olds_gbody@listbot.com <olds_gbody@listbot.com>
Date: Wednesday, January 06, 1999 11:59 PM
Subject: 88 Cutlass GT

>Anyone here w/ an 88 Cutlass GT?.......I"ve only seen one personally and
>another for sale how about a little background on them....
>All I know is that they are Y motor w/ the H/O effects kit and the one I
>saw was white w/ a red stripe(solid) over a tan/cream and said one of I
>cant remember how many?....any one w/ info?
> Terminally bored
> Jeremy 87 442


Well, I know this response is a little late, but I wanted to make sure I had
as much info as possible and make it as factual as possible.

It seems like 1988 was a cool year for the last rear wheel drive Cutlass,
with several different special editions being offered.  I'll start off with
the two best known options that year and I'll finish up with a third option
that I just found out about last summer at the OCA Nationals.

Option 1:  The '88 Cutlass GT.
    More of a localized zone package, than a nationally available option.
Looks to be an appearance package, rather than performance.  Produced by Top
and Trends in NC.  Had H/O hood scoop, rear wing, special paint, console,
with buckets and a special plaque on the console, also special honeycomb
stlye rims.  Only @280 produced.  Featured in JWO Sept. 1997.

Option 2:  The 1988 Hurst/Aero kit.
    Produced by Action Products in AZ.  Since Olds didn't want to pay to
have the Hurst name on the car for the 20th anniversary of the H/O, Doc.
Watson and Joe Hrudka, (then head of Mr. Gasket) put together this special
kit.  The kit included a ground effects package with a special rear trunk
lip/wing and decal striping.  It ~was~ available as a dealer option for
around $500.  This kit will fit on any '81-'88 RWD Cutlass and was also
available as a separate kit.  If installed on an '88 it was a 20th
anniversary H/O, if installed on any previous model it was a H/O Aero
commemorative.  No known production numbers exist.  I personally have seen,
or heard of about 24 kits in the past two years.  There is definately under
500 of these made, most likely in the 200 range.
(If anyone wants more info on this kit I can give it to you.  I own one and
have just about all available literature on it.)

Option 3:  The LV2 Sport Coupe.
    250 Produced by Oldsmobile to use up some of the remaining H/O and 442
inventory.  H/O spoiler that was ~not~ color keyed with the rest of the car.
It was left black.  It had the H.O. 307 that produced 180 HP.  200-4R trans
w/ 3.08 rear gears and limited slip.  Other items include handling and
appearance packages, heavy duty cooling system, Olds Chrome rims(14") with
205/70 tires, and the rallye pac.  Looks to be based on the salon trim
level.

There ya have it.  Does anyone know of any other local zone packages that
came on the '88 Cutlass Supreme Classic?  I would love to hear about them.

Bill Reilly
mailto: wjreilly@erols.com
Web Page: (Not yet)

My Garage:
'83 Cutlass Ciera
'84 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
'85 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 20:24:56 -0500
From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com>
Subject: Re: HEI Swap.  Real Life Benefits?

No noticeable change in MPG after my swap.

It does start quicker, and idle smoother- but not a great deal.

Since the swap, timing has stayed exactly stable, where with the points I'd
see a drift in dwell and timing after a few months of running.

It was a fun project, and I learned quite a bit about the car (recurved and
put vac back to original spec)- would do it again if I had the decision....

Bob
- -----Original Message-----
From: Thomas P. Smith <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, January 17, 1999 9:45 AM
Subject: HEI Swap. Real Life Benefits?


>Mornin',
>
>As I've said a couple times before, I'm considering the HEI swap.
>Before I proceed, I'm interested in hearing from those of you who've
>done it and your feelings.
>
>Here are the things I'm NOT really concerned about.  First, improved RPM
>range.  I don't race or rod my car.  So, higher speed is not a concern.
>Second, not having to change points.  I've been replacing points since I
>was 16 (I'm now 32).  I never thought it was that much of a hassle, and
>they've never given me fits.  (However, I AM interested in the long-term
>cost savings of not having to buy points, or replace spark plugs and
>wires as often).
>
>Here are the things I am concerned about,  First and foremost, improved
>fuel economy.  The FAQ indicates some impressive gains after installing
>and recurving an HEI distributor.  Of course, improved MPG only makes
>sense, but what kind of results did ya'll have?  Second, improved low
>and mid range performance.  Finally, what problems were encountered?
>I've read the FAQ and it speaks of the washer at the oil pump coming
>loose and potential difficulty getting the old distributor out.  Anyone
>else have these problems?
>
>If anyone noticed any other benefits I haven't mentioned here, I'd be
>glad to hear that, too.
>
>Thanks,
>--
>Thomas P. Smith
>1971 Cutlass S 350
>smithtp@ix.netcom.com
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 20:33:29 -0500
From: David Brode <dbrode@hereintown.net>
Subject: Olds powered Chevy truck

Hello all,
 [I can't remember who was talking about the Olds powered Chev pu]. I've done 
a couple of
these. I haven't found a header that fits. I've used 68 up Cutlass 455 
headers, but i had to
modify a tube on each side. The won't clear the lower A arm mount. You can cut 
up a "U bend to
help with this easy mod.
 On the '73up trucks, you can use the motor mount frame brackets from an Olds 
diesel powered
pickup. These Olds powered diesel trucks are getting rare in the junkyards 
though. If you need
to fab frame mounts just bolt the trans down in the rear, and center the fan 
in the shroud and
level the engine side to side. A few pieces of scrap plate/angle iron etc, and 
a bit of
welding should get it done.
Dave Brode
64 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 20:48:02 EST
From: CPEARLPARK@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rally Pac Wiring

Chris, 
'Found my Rally Pac install instructions.  They're from an article in JWO
probably some time ago as they look like they've been through the Xerox about
a million times.  Anyway, on the back of the housing there are two posts with
red plastic collars on them.  The one on the left is just grounded to a
smaller post below and to the right of the two red posts.  The red post on the
right is the one that runs (with an in-line fuse) to the negative side of the
coil.  I have a lot of trouble reading the part about the lead for the gauge
lighting.  Supposedly there is an orange wire in the dash that serves this
purpose.  I ~think~ the orange wire goes to the hex post above and between the
two red-collared posts. Can anyone confirm the lighting question?  That's the
best I can do Chris on the tach...  The instructions for the oil/temp/fuel
gauge are much clearer and involve changing the wires around in the plastic
connector used on the idiot light unit. I can give you the details on that if
you need them. Let me know...  BTW, gauges on 70-72 models pull out from
inside the car, 68-69's from the engine compartment.

Scott 
71 4-4-2 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 23:33:46 GMT
From: cay57@earthlink.net
Subject: Re: Answer: per your request 

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hư

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 21:27:21 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine Swap

In a message dated 1/17/99 5:11:26 PM Pacific Standard Time, CutlassSX@aol.com
writes:

<< How hard is it to swap a 350 Rocket in a 81 Cutlass with a 3.8 Buick
V6....and
 whats involved?
  >>

     Hmm...lets see...new motor mounts? At least probably have to change the
location on the frame I would guess (did the V-6 to Chev conversion myself
once) Change fuel lines (wrong side) and redo engine wiring harness a
bit..distributor on the 6 is in front. Thats all I can think of, oh
yeah...bigger radiator and a V-8 Fan shroud. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 19:28:21 +0000
From: "Robert J. Lavey" <rjlavey@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 1968 Ignition Ring

>
>>OUCH, $30 for plastic? Sorry, I will deal with it.
>>T.J.
>

I'd have been tickled pink to get one for $30 this time last year.  As it
was, I had to have some CNC machined from aluminum.  A single piece would
have cost me over $60, so I had a dozen made for $32.50 each.  Kind of
glad, though;  the aluminum is a bit tougher than the plastic.

Bob
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----
 Robert J. Lavey			mailto://rjlavey@hotmail.com
 13243 W. Dahlia Dr.			Home:  (208) 939-5418
 Boise, ID  83713-1302			Fax:   (208) 939-5452
- 
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
-

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 21:30:20 EST
From: CutlassSX@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine Swap

thanks for the help

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 21:30:23 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: F-41/sway bars & steering boxes

In a message dated 1/17/99 4:15:53 PM Pacific Standard Time,
kgrant442@home.com writes:

<< I'm about 75% sure that the W41 steering box has 4 or 5 bolts to hold down
 the top plate, wear as the standard box is held together with a c-clip.
 
 Kevin Grant
 80 Cutlass Supreme >>

      According to my Hollanders, for '79 cars with the "ralley suspension"
option, the difference is in the top plate, at least visually, as you stated.
They don't show that they interchange later, so they must have changed a
little in '80 Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 21:39:12 EST
From: Socalolds@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1968 Ignition Ring

Liegh,
Am interested in your ignition rings. Are the plastic?   Can you send me your
address and phone # so I can order one.
Thanks 
Dennis

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 03:29:31 -0800
From: "Mike Jones" <mike@gleep.com>
Subject: Sandblasting SSII wheels

	I have a set of SSII wheels on my Delta 88 (with big center caps) that 
are
a little on the rusty side.  Is it possible to remove the rust and paint
with a sandblaster?  I don't know if the media would damage the chrome
finish on the rims.  Is there also a masking kit for the wheels, so I can
re-paint them like the pontiac crowd does?

Mike Jones
'78 Delta 88 (350/TH350/103k)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 22:30:27 -0400
From: kelly lannigan <kclannigan@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Big car show

    I just wanted to tell everyone about a great car show. Well it could
be much better because of the 300 or so cars that attend the show each
year I only can find 2 or 3 real cars.(OLDSMOBILES) The show has been
held for the past 20 years and I have been the M.C./D.J. party animal
for the past 8 years.I am in the process of rebuilding my 1964 F-85
Cutlass convertible and would love to meet other REAL car owners at the
show. It is located in Montague Prince Edward Island Canada this July 2
3 and 4th.  If you want more info go to www.peisland.com/montague
then click on attractions and click on Show and Shine Car Show.You can
also e-mail me privately at kclannigan@sympatico.ca.
    Thanks Kelly Lannigan
        64 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 22:35:31 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: "gen" light on

In a message dated 1/17/99 6:18:19 PM Central Standard Time, patton@ComCAT.COM
writes:

<< 
         The "gen" light came on in my 67'
 Cutlass........replaced voltage regulator
 and alternator......."gen" light still on...
 Volt gauge show 14.5 ..... have no amp
 gage........car starts and runs fine....
 any clues ?????
  >>
   Check the "feild" wires going into the back of the alternator. My 65
Cutlass does this sometimes. Other then the annoying "gen" light...alls fine.

Collyn Eastham
65 442
65 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 22:43:41 EST
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1968 Ignition Ring ( taillight lenses)

In a message dated 1/17/99 8:31:14 PM Central Standard Time,
rjlavey@hotmail.com writes:

<< >
 >>OUCH, $30 for plastic? Sorry, I will deal with it.
 >>T.J.
 >
 
 I'd have been tickled pink to get one for $30 this time last year.  As it
 was, I had to have some CNC machined from aluminum.  A single piece would
 have cost me over $60, so I had a dozen made for $32.50 each.  Kind of
 glad, though;  the aluminum is a bit tougher than the plastic.
  >>


   When some brave individual decides to "reproduce perfectly" some 65
Cutlass/442 tailight lenses...I'll buy some without "bitchin'" about the
price. 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 14:27:18 -0500
From: toddmorr@us.ibm.com
Subject: Re: HEI Swap. Real Life Benefits?

I've done the HEI swap, about a year ago.  Any fuel economy benefits are
negligible, compared to a well tuned points system.  However, the
improvement in smoothness is stunning, starting is easier, quicker, low end
pull seems to be stronger.  Easy swap to do, well worth it.

Todd Morris
71 442

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 23:22:58 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Non Olds

Yeah Master Lou, it's a shame about that two year streak ending today of all
days...
But screw it, February 7th, Bud Shoot out!

Master Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass (hybernating)
84 Calais ($200!)
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Lou Biggs
Sent: Sunday, January 17, 1999 5:52 PM
To: Olds List
Subject: Non Olds


No one here, all are drinking and watching football games, doing both!
Master Lou
lbiggs@intertek.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 23:26:21 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Engine Swap

How anout turbo charrging the 3.8 and maing a T-type Rocket?

No, the swap is easy (relatively), considering that that car could have just
as easily accepted a V8 from the factory.  Just get the right motor mounts
(say they're for a 307), perhaps get some new springs up front, and make
sure you have a trans that can handle the extrea torque.  One (not I) could
do this swap in one day or a weekend.

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass (hybernating)
84 Calais ($200!)
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of CutlassSX@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, January 17, 1999 8:07 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Engine Swap


How hard is it to swap a 350 Rocket in a 81 Cutlass with a 3.8 Buick
V6....and
whats involved?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 23:29:56 -0500
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: 88 Cutlass GT (long)

- -----Original Message-----
Option 2:  The 1988 Hurst/Aero kit.
    Produced by Action Products in AZ.  Since Olds didn't want to pay to
have the Hurst name on the car for the 20th anniversary of the H/O, Doc.
Watson and Joe Hrudka, (then head of Mr. Gasket) put together this special
kit.  The kit included a ground effects package with a special rear trunk
lip/wing and decal striping.  It ~was~ available as a dealer option for
around $500.  This kit will fit on any '81-'88 RWD Cutlass and was also
available as a separate kit.  If installed on an '88 it was a 20th
anniversary H/O, if installed on any previous model it was a H/O Aero
commemorative.  No known production numbers exist.  I personally have seen,
or heard of about 24 kits in the past two years.  There is definately under
500 of these made, most likely in the 200 range.
(If anyone wants more info on this kit I can give it to you.  I own one and
have just about all available literature on it.)
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

What about a Hurst shifter?

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass (hybernating)
84 Calais ($200!)
costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 18:21:14 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@GATEWAY.NET>
Subject: Re: HEI Swap.  Real Life Benefits?

>As I've said a couple times before, I'm considering the HEI swap.
>Before I proceed, I'm interested in hearing from those of you who've
>done it and your feelings.


Thomas,

If the points don't really bother you then you it may not really be worth
your while to do the swap.  You ~may~ pick up a few mpg since you
can run a larger gap on your plugs.  I say may because it all depends
on what your exact combination is and what other mods you make 
to take advantage of the HEI.  You can usually richen up the carb some
so that any given rpm you have to depress the throttle less to get the 
same amount of power, but as I said, it all depends on the whole 
combo.  Rock solid reliability is the main cause of many making the
switch since with an old car anything that gives you one less thing to 
worry about is usually worth it.  If you think about the fact that the 
performance of points (effieciency) constantly degrades from the time
you put them in and the HEI stays constant then that's something you have
to consider.  Just my thoughts.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/
 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 16 Jan 1999 23:41:05 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: F-41/sway bars & steering boxes

I see clearly now.  I have never had one out of a car so wouldn't have
known otherwise.  How much trouble is it to take one out?
Brian. 

R. Grant wrote:
> 
> I'm about 75% sure that the W41 steering box has 4 or 5 bolts to hold down
> the top plate, wear as the standard box is held together with a c-clip.
> 
> Kevin Grant
> 80 Cutlass Supreme
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: DYeager535@aol.com <DYeager535@aol.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: January 17, 1999 2:01 PM
> Subject: Re: F-41/sway bars
> 
> >In a message dated 1/17/99 8:31:03 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> cshankle@home.com
> >writes:
> >
> ><< The sway bars are pretty much telltale signs that you have F41.  I don't
> > think the rear sway bar was a seperate option.  Also, the F41 came with
> > stiffer springs and a quicker steering box than the regular ones.
> > Brian. >>
> >
> >      Thanks..makes sense. Is there a casting number visible on the box to
> >tell one what it is, or are the internals the difference? Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 00:00:49 -0500
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Motor mounts

Whew!

I just finished putting in the left motor mount on my 86 Cutlass.  I
would now like to pass along a couple of helpful hints I just learned.

1.  The very second you take the new mount out of the box, be sure to
clean out the bolt holes and make sure that there is no tough molded
rubber left in them.  After it is between the block and the frame is NOT
the time to find out you should have done this.  Bolts don't like to
travel through this stuff for some reason.

2.  If you ever have some inexplicable noises or bumping or vibrating,
be sure to check the motor mounts.  It sounds really crazy but I swear
that new mount has eliminated a severe thump I used to have upon
acceleration (duh!) and a rattle I thought was in the dash.  I chased
that rattling noise all over the front of the car but with this new
mount the noise seems to have disappeared.  

3.  I'm so happy about this new mount and suprised at how many problems
it solved, I think I will blame everything on bad motor mounts. 
Vibrations under the hood?  Bad motor mounts.  Thumping on
acceleration?  Bad motor mounts.  Flat tire and blown headlight?  You
guessed it!
Bad motor mounts.
Brian.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 00:05:22 -0800
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: HEI Swap. Real Life Benefits?

toddmorr@us.ibm.com wrote:
> 
> I've done the HEI swap, about a year ago.  Any fuel economy benefits are
> negligible, compared to a well tuned points system. However, the
> improvement in smoothness is stunning, starting is easier, quicker, low end
> pull seems to be stronger. 

...And plugs last ~forever~.  My points distributor could eat some
plugs!  I think it had a lot to do with my shoddy job at maintaining
points.  I'd usually forget to re-adjsut the dwell until I noticed the
car running worse.  Then I'd adjsut the dwell and replace the ponts if
neccesary.   I think that's the main reason for any fuel economy
improvement.  Your ignition system isn't constantly wearing out.  


Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutalss Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 00:37:37 EST
From: Moparrp@aol.com
Subject: Re: Tips for Headliner installation

you have to first pull the material away from all the sides, front and rear
windows. then you can see the rods. as you look at the clips at each end you
will see they are "v" shaped.. starting wth the front or rear does not make a
whole lot of difference, you must roll the rod towards the center of the car.
this wil give you room to remove each rod .

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 00:44:27 EST
From: Moparrp@aol.com
Subject: Re: Towing

cute idea, i have a 66 cutlass but it's not for towing

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 21:48:01 -0800
From: Michael Hemp <histryco@redshift.com>
Subject: Please remove me from your list

Sirs,
	My restoation of a 47 Olds won't progress any faster given the
number and type of subjects reviewed on your list serve. Please remove me
from your list.

Thank you,

Michael Hemp


Live aloha...

Michael

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 00:48:41 -0500
From: "Brad Nicholson" <brad442@erols.com>
Subject: Got "Lightning Rods" need shop manual page

All,
As the headline reads, I got a Hurst Lightning Rod Shifter fron the '83-4
H/O for FREE (Don't ask, there aren't any more) and here is my delema:
I'm putting them in my '87 442 and would like to do it right and I
understand that I need a braket to attach it to the floorboard and/or trans.
Does anyone have a drawing/diagram as to the instalation/removal of the
shifter in a 1983 or 84 shop manual.  Please reply privately to keep traffic
down.  TIA

Also thanks to everyone who went tips on my OCA Web Site background image
problem, I should have it solved this week.

Brad Nicholson (OCA's WebGuy)
1987 442 W-42 (Weekend Rocket)
1994 LSS (Weekday Rocket)
brad442@erols.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 00:55:52 EST
From: Moparrp@aol.com
Subject: Re: HEI Swap.  Real Life Benefits?

i have a 66 cutlass with origional dist and a 68 camaro 350,325hp with HEI,
the HEI allows for easier starting along with the other benifits you
mentioned. the one vproblem i did notice was fire wall clearance, it had to be
massaged a little to clear. good luck. i also have a 67 plm. furylll with the
points still in it, as long as i keep it tuned with quality parts i don't have
any problems, even @ - 15 f,with 30w oil in it.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 23:19:50 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: shop equip.

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BE426F.E1939060
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

My boss wants to sell this thermal cleaning oven.

Steel-A-Brator SO2 thermal cleaning oven used to clean engine blocks and =
cylinder heads.  300,000 Btu propane, new never installed $6000.00 or =
trade for???

Searing Engine Service
602.785.1100

Pass it on if you know of anyone that could use this.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BE426F.E1939060
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>My boss wants to sell this thermal =
cleaning=20
oven.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Steel-A-Brator SO2 thermal cleaning =
oven used to=20
clean engine blocks and cylinder heads.&nbsp; 300,000 Btu propane, new =
never=20
installed $6000.00 or trade for???</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Searing Engine Service</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>602.785.1100</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Pass it on if you know of anyone =
that could use=20
this.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BE426F.E1939060--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 22:46:57 -0800
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: HEI Swap. Real Life Benefits?

Good question for the list.

I must weigh in with the majority. 

I have swapped both my 66 Big Olds's to the HEI distributor. 

It is clearly superior (to me)  for the following reasons

1) smoother idle
2) better economy, slighly more power
3) reliable so long as you stick with GM, not aftermarket, parts
4) reliable so long as you keep an extra electrical doodad (chip?) in the
glove box
5) no points to adjust or dwell to scr*w with ever
6) fun swap
7) bolt in mechanically, though wiring changes are required (see the FAQ)
8) more modern --- hey if the GM engineers had found points were better
they'd've stuck with 'em

Hope this helps -- this and the internally regulated alternator are the
fixes I'm happiest with on my big blocks.

cf
 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 17 Jan 1999 22:52:40 -0800
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: Ring & Pinion Swapping Trivia

So, o.k., I'm trying to hop up the Starfire. It has a 3.08 now, in what I
assume to be a 1966 Type "O" or "P" rear end. This is _a_ factory solution,
but I'm on the hunt. 


My question:
If the A body/Cutlass/442 crowd have a 3.23 or 3.42 ratio ring & pinion,
would it work with big car (88 or 98) axles and spider gears?

Wouldn't it be cool if this worked? I mean a Starfire with 3.42 gears. 0 to
60 in your driveway.  

Or say a 98 with 4.11 gears. The world needs a 66 98 dragster.

Anyone with knowledge, please let us all know. 

cheers, 

cf

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 01:09:26 -0600
From: "mbloomer" <mbloomer@gateway.net>
Subject: Tips for headliner repair?

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_012D_01BE427F.312F0F00
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

The thread on headliner replacement has gotten me thinking.
My 68 has a tear about 6 inches long on it but otherwise is=20
in excellent condition.  It looks as if I could use something like
cardboard as a backing to glue the headliner together along=20
the rip so there isn't a hole.  Eventually it will be replaced=20
but now the money could be better used elsewhere so the
desire for an inconspicuous fix.  I've seen it done before but
don't know exactly how they did it.  Anybody have any experience
with this?  What kind of adhesive would be best.  I was thinking
of using the standard interior spray stuff but don't want to mess=20
it up worse than it is.

Mike B
mbloomer@gateway.net
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/
=20

- ------=_NextPart_000_012D_01BE427F.312F0F00
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>The thread on headliner replacement has =
gotten me=20
thinking.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>My 68 has a tear about 6 inches long on it =
but=20
otherwise is </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>in excellent condition.&nbsp; It looks as if =
I could=20
use something like</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>cardboard as a backing to glue the headliner =
together=20
along </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>the rip so there isn't a hole.&nbsp; =
Eventually it will=20
be replaced </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>but now the money could be better used =
elsewhere so=20
the</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>desire for an inconspicuous fix.&nbsp; I've =
seen it=20
done before but</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>don't know exactly how they did it.&nbsp; =
Anybody have=20
any experience</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>with this?&nbsp; What kind of adhesive would =
be=20
best.&nbsp; I was thinking</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>of using the standard interior spray stuff =
but don't=20
want to mess&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>it up worse than it is.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000>Mike B<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:mbloomer@gateway.net">mbloomer@gateway.net</A><BR>ICQ#=20
19113713<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/">http://members.tripod.co=
m/CutlassFreak/</A><BR>&nbsp;</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_012D_01BE427F.312F0F00--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 01:04:49 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Olds powered Chevy truck

I haven't found a header that fits. I've used 68 up Cutlass 455 headers, but
i had to
>modify a tube on each side. The won't clear the lower A arm mount. You can
cut up a "U bend to
>help with this easy mod.

How much modifing of the headers and how did you do it?

> On the '73up trucks, you can use the motor mount frame brackets from an
Olds diesel powered
>pickup. These Olds powered diesel trucks are getting rare in the junkyards
though. If you need
>to fab frame mounts just bolt the trans down in the rear, and center the
fan in the shroud and
>level the engine side to side.

Yup, I know about the diesel mounts.  I am planning on using a '73 to '86
pick-up, short-box or step-side.  I would like headers and a Th400 tranny.
You say you have put a 455 in one of these trucks.  Were you happy with the
power?  How heavy can some of these beasts be.  I was thinking about a
build-up that would include all new metal, new interior and engine-tranny
swap.  Most of these trucks came with 3.42 gears or around there so a
healthy 455 Olds should do it justice.  I would lower the truck so that it
is down to regular car ride-height.  What about traction?  I would just love
to see a Chevy nut see a nice pick-up and then realize that it uses a real
motor for power.  Igor.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 01:08:12 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Ring & Pinion Swapping Trivia

>Or say a 98 with 4.11 gears. The world needs a 66 98 dragster.


Yup.  I put a 455/th400 and 3.23s in my '81 Delta.  I was thinking 4.10s but
I have a lot of trouble with the 3.23s and leaving the line.  4.10s would be
cool and that Delta would really move.  I have a '81 98 with over-drive.  It
could use 4.56 gears and still have some cruise RPMs.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 00:20:57 PST
From: "jason shreve" <jasonshreve@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: '71 Olds ID

I am almost sure you could get a non 442, SX,  455 Cutlass.  I almost 
bought a Supreme from a older guy with a original 455 in it.


>From what I can gather, only TWO kinds of A-body Oldses had 455s.  That
>would be the 442 and the Cutlass SX, which is a supreme designation.
>
>There you go.
>
>Mike Rothe
>


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 03:36:29 EST
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds powered Chevy truck

In a message dated 1/18/99 12:07:42 AM Pacific Standard Time, igor455@home.com
writes:

<< Yup, I know about the diesel mounts.  I am planning on using a '73 to '86
 pick-up, short-box or step-side.  I would like headers and a Th400 tranny.
 You say you have put a 455 in one of these trucks.  Were you happy with the
 power?  How heavy can some of these beasts be.  I was thinking about a
 build-up that would include all new metal, new interior and engine-tranny
 swap.  Most of these trucks came with 3.42 gears or around there so a
 healthy 455 Olds should do it justice.  I would lower the truck so that it
 is down to regular car ride-height.  What about traction?  I would just love
 to see a Chevy nut see a nice pick-up and then realize that it uses a real
 motor for power.  Igor. >>

     I don't know how a 455 couldn't be enough power! A 454 in a 4WD, 4.11, 4
speed truck, at about 4500lbs, is still pretty darn quick...2WD would be quite
a bit quicker on top of that. 3.42's were not real common on any of the actual
"trucks". Suburbans with OD, yes. (about 81-91) Most common gears were 3.73's,
4.11's in trucks, and 3.08's in the OD Blazers. I may be incorrect about the
'commonality" of the gears, but I have been dealing with this issue a bit
lately....       
       Traction with the leaf springs can be a problem though...fortunately,
to compensate a little for the spring wrap you get, factory lockers were a
pretty common option on the trucks, and with smalller tires, shouldn't have a
problem with them coming apart like they tend to 4wheeling. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 04:30:04 -0700
From: "Igor T. '81 DRB 455" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Impala SS Lowering Springs and Air Bags

I was just day dreaming through the Summit catalog and found two things that
interest me:

Will a set of Intrax 1990-1996 Impala SS/Caprice 2" lowering springs work on
my '81 Delta 88.  Will a 2" drop seriously hamper my drive-ability and
ground-clearance.  Also, how much stiffer will the suspension be,
particularly in the front.  Price for these springs: $189.95 US  Read on:

In addition, I found a set of Air Lift 1000 Load assist springs.  It looks
like two simple air-bags that are supposed to fit into your coil spring to
be used to firm-up the ride, control sway, etc.  I am also interested in
using them for possible traction improvement.  What I would ultimately like
to do is install this set of lowering springs into the car, and then for the
rear I would like to add these air-bags in order to be able to lift the back
a bit to firm-it up.  I also have a set of coil-over-shock coils that I
would like to install, but I guess I would have to shorten them as well in
order to accommodate for the suspension drop.  The car will soon receive
15x8 wheels in the back and 15x7s in the front.  Will the drop in the back
present a problem for the 8" wide rims?  In order to firm-up the suspension
over-all in order to improve handling a great deal, would I have to go to
better shocks.  The car currently has newer generic heavy-duty shocks that
work well and were a good improvement over stock.  If I have to get better,
stiffer shocks, which ones should I get?  What about springs from Eibach and
how much?  The car is equipped with F-41 suspension and has a rear sway bar.
I am going to replace front sway bar bushings and end-links with
polyurethane units.  By the way, price of these air-bags: $62.95/pair
(includes separate air-hoses for each bag).

The car is 1981 Delta 88 4-door with a 455/th400, 3.23 posi and 255/60/15
tires all around.  Thanks a lot.

In addition, has anyone had good/bad experience dealing with Summit.  I live
in Canada so my shipping should be a little expensive and considering the
value of the Canadian dollar, it should not be pleasant.  Thanks a lot.
Igor

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 07:25:09 -0500
From: "Frederick S. Nissen" <FSNissen@Worldnet.ATT.NET>
Subject: Re: Engine Swap

A few additions to the advice of others:  When swapping from one engine
"family" to another (ie Buick to Olds, Pontiac to Olds, Chev. to Olds)
make sure you get all of the correct accessory brackets for the 'new'
engine. Easiest way to do this is a parts car.  You may also be in for
some rewiring and replumbing (ie  A/C lines, P.S. lines etc.) to
accommodate the differing accessory mount locations.  If you are going
to run an Olds big block (400, 425, 455) with a radial (R4) A/C
compressor, you will have to modify the bracket to compensate for the
taller block.  No factory bracket is available for this combination. 
Regards,
Fred  

Master Costanzo wrote:
> 
> How anout turbo charrging the 3.8 and maing a T-type Rocket?
> 
> No, the swap is easy (relatively), considering that that car could have just
> as easily accepted a V8 from the factory.  Just get the right motor mounts
> (say they're for a 307), perhaps get some new springs up front, and make
> sure you have a trans that can handle the extrea torque.  One (not I) could
> do this swap in one day or a weekend.
> 
> Ray Costanzo
> 87 409 Cutlass (hybernating)
> 84 Calais ($200!)
> costanzo@netcarrier.com
> http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of CutlassSX@aol.com
> Sent: Sunday, January 17, 1999 8:07 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Engine Swap
> 
> How hard is it to swap a 350 Rocket in a 81 Cutlass with a 3.8 Buick
> V6....and
> whats involved?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 07:31:35 -0500
From: "Frederick S. Nissen" <FSNissen@Worldnet.ATT.NET>
Subject: Re: '71 Olds ID

jason shreve wrote:
> 
> I am almost sure you could get a non 442, SX,  455 Cutlass.  I almost
> bought a Supreme from a older guy with a original 455 in it.
> 
>

Are you sure the car in question was not a '72.  The 455 was an RPO for
the Cutlass in '72-'76.  

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 05:55:19 -0800 (PST)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: HEI Swap.  Real Life Benefits?

<snip>
> I also added a spacer under my stock air cleaner for better
clearance.<snip>
===================================

This is the problem I ran into with my HEI. I had to buy a 1 1/2" high
spacer for my air cleaner. I am running the 14" Edelbrock open air
cleaner. I haven't recurved the distributer yet. I just popped it in
and it runs very good. I am suspecting that once I get it curved and
get an adjustable vacume advance, I should be in good shape. Fuel
economy kinda sucks though. (But, that's just due to the lead foot of
the driver)

Del
==
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 09:13:34 EST
From: MrExMt@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1968 Ignition Ring

Dennis, yes this is a plastic reproduction of the original plastic ring.
Thank you & send to:
Leigh Tenenholtz
5807 Ewing Ave. No.
Brooklyn Center, MN  55429
(612)531-2456

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 09:19:04 EST
From: MrExMt@aol.com
Subject: 1968 Ignition Ring Rebuttal

< Subj:	 Re: 1968 Ignition Ring ( taillight lenses)
 Date:	1/17/99 9:46:23 PM Central Standard Time
 From:	GT5726@aol.com
 Sender:	oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
 Reply-to:	<A HREF="mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">
oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>
 To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
 
 In a message dated 1/17/99 8:31:14 PM Central Standard Time,
 rjlavey@hotmail.com writes:
 
 << >
  >>OUCH, $30 for plastic? Sorry, I will deal with it.
  >>T.J.
  >
  
  I'd have been tickled pink to get one for $30 this time last year.  As it
  was, I had to have some CNC machined from aluminum.  A single piece would
  have cost me over $60, so I had a dozen made for $32.50 each.  Kind of
  glad, though;  the aluminum is a bit tougher than the plastic.
   >>
 
 
    When some brave individual decides to "reproduce perfectly" some 65
 Cutlass/442 tailight lenses...I'll buy some without "bitchin'" about the
 price. 
 
 Thank you! I've been working on this for almost 4 years, to make the mold
alone
is  very time consuming & has to be exact or it will not work, think about it
all, I'm not the OLDS factory, just a guy with  a '68 and could not find this
so I made it!  
Thanks again!
Leigh Tenenholtz

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 18 Jan 1999 09:26:55 -0500
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: '71 Olds ID

>I am almost sure you could get a non 442, SX,  455 Cutlass.  I almost
>bought a Supreme from a older guy with a original 455 in it.


>>From what I can gather, only TWO kinds of A-body Oldses had 455s.  That
>>would be the 442 and the Cutlass SX, which is a supreme designation.
___________

I too thought you could get a 455 in a regular Cutlass in 71, but
apparently this was not the case.  I checked my 71 advertising literature,
and the 455 was only listed as available in the 442, the Supreme (non-SX as
well as SX) and the Vista Cruiser.  Again, this is only the 1971 model year
we're talking about here.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1722
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