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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1922


oldsmobile-digest       Sunday, April 25 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1922



muffler
Re: More Adventures From Inside The Dash...LONG, INTERESTING
Why a C body?
Need URL
Re: Brothers  NO FLUKE
Re: Lost Keys
oldsmobile digest
PAGING STEVE MINORE
Re: Brothers  NO FLUKE
Re: My engine`s home
Re: More Adventures From Inside The Dash...LONG, INTERESTING
Re: GM 502 and a Cutlass????
Re: GM 502 and a Cutlass????
How to hook up 2 oil pressure senders.
Re: SW with a DIESEL engine (fwd)
Re: Why a C body?
Re: How to hook up 2 oil pressure senders.
Re: How to hook up 2 oil pressure senders.
Re: How to hook up 2 oil pressure senders.
WTB '51 88 Convert
UNBOUNCE: Odd Oil Color?
UNBOUNCE: Sick '67 4-4-2
[none]
UNBOUNCE: Bad Vibrations
Re:Paint Codes
Fan Clutch?
Re: GM 502 and a Cutlass????
Re: Aftermarket gauges:Electronic/Mechanical
Re: Fan Clutch?
Olds vs. Porsche 911 turbo
Re: How to hook up 2 oil pressure senders.
Re: How to hook up 2 oil pressure senders.
1969 442 
Rainy Day Doggie
Re: Rainy Day Doggie
RE: Olds vs. Porsche 911 turbo
TCC solenoid on 700R4
Re: GM 502 and a Cutlass????
Re: Olds vs. Porsche 911 turbo
Re: Rainy Day Doggie
Jetfire Turbo @ Carlisle
Re: 1970 W-31 Pace Car, whats it worth??
Re: Jetfire Turbo @ Carlisle
Re: 1970 W-31 Pace Car, whats it worth??
Re: 1970 W-31 Pace Car, whats it worth??
Re: Jetfire Turbo @ Carlisle
Re: 1970 W-31 Pace Car, whats it worth??
Carlisle purchases
Re: Carlisle purchases
Re: Carlisle purchases
Re: 1969 442
Re: gauges and warning light ?????
Jefferson.
Re: 25th Anniversary (was pulling a Churchill)
Re: L35 ?? color page??she is gold??
Re: 1970 W-31 Pace Car, whats it worth??
[none]
Re: Jefferson.
Re: gauges and warning light ?????
Cutlass in a flood
Re: UNBOUNCE: Bad Vibrations
Re: the Differance between a supreme
Re: GM 502 and a Cutlass????
Re: gauges and warning light ?????
Re: Cutlass in a flood
Re: 1969 442
Re: Paint Codes
Re: 1969 442
Re: Fan Clutch?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 08:43:04 -0400
From: chauncey m depew <mikemona@juno.com>
Subject: muffler

I have 1995 EightyEight  
Garaged every night
live in the northeast  New York (above New York City)
66,000 miles


how long should the muffler last on this car?

Michelle

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 08:49:28 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: More Adventures From Inside The Dash...LONG, INTERESTING

>I have a variable (Gauge package) oil pressure sending unit, and the stock
>(idiot lights) temperature sending unit.

Oil light should be removed. There wasn't one with the gage package. It's
probably bypassing the gage. Temp sender is supposed to be a special unit
with ~both~ a variable resistance element and an over-temp switch (2-wires).
If you use an on-off sender unit, you could destroy the gage by putting too
much current through it.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 08:59:48 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <Berusch@mindspring.com>
Subject: Why a C body?

  My eldest son was commuting to school yesterday (Georgia State, academic
scholarship, shameless plug) along I-85 at 75 MPH when, of all things, he
was rear ended!  At 75 MPH!  The driver behind him was talking on one of
those hand held cel phones, not paying attention to the job at hand (staying
out of Big Blue's bumper).  I inquired into the range and extent of damage.
He told me the pickup that hit him was pretty messed up.  I asked about our
'70 98.  Well, he said, there was a mark on the bumper, but it rubbed off.
  That is the third time he has been hit since he got his license, and he
has come home for dinner every time.  And that is Why a C Body.
  All y'all be careful out there, here?  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 09:48:32 EDT
From: AVMDUCK@aol.com
Subject: Need URL

Hi 76,

How's it going down the road,  my "76" is still cruis'in!!!

Need the url that will allow me to post a question, give it to me please?

"76" Thanks 

Alan

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 10:39:08 -0400
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Brothers  NO FLUKE

 {you wrote}...<Unless this is a one time glitch, I will never use them
again.(brothers)>


Well, go with your gut feeling.  I can assure you it's not just a fluke.
One of the many complaints is they take forever.  Stop playing games, end
the frustration and deal with the professionals:

FUSICK'S  (860) 623-1583.....I just ordered my first two orders, FAST
SHIPPING and their parts are IN stock!  Top quality parts, many are
available because they footed the bill to reproduce them.  Located in CT

SUPERCARS UNLIMITED  (503) 244-8249   All he sells is Cutlass/4-4-2 parts!
Greg is a very knowledgeable and friendly guy.  Again, parts are top quality
and IN stock.  Make sure to order his "By the Numbers Book", which lists all
casting numbers!  Located in OR

Year One  (800) YEARONE  Awesome customer service, fast shipping, parts in
stock.  All of the above, but you may pay a little more on certain items.
Fabulous supplier non-the-less!

There.  The above three "Professional" companies will help will all your
restoration needs.  Don't feel you have to pick only one.  I have bought
from all three and will continue to do so.  Each has a few items the others
don't.  Also, don't be swaded by 800 numbers or feel catalogs.  Don't be too
cheap to fork over $3 - $5 for a catalog.  Catalogs are a HUGE expense for
companies, and charging for them is one way they keep their prices down.
Remember, your soon-to-be restored car will be worth thousands.  Invest
smartly in it.  And this advice is being brought to you by one of the
cheapest bastards I know......ME!    8>)  Hope my opinions help you.

BTW, if anyone is looking for a "Exhaust Manifold Shroud", there's a guy who
makes A1 reproductions in OH.  "Carl's Corner".  I don't have the phone
number handy, but will send it to the list when I find it.

RC Hellebuyck  -  OCA #30213
1971 4-4-2 convt
See my car and over 40 other Olds' at:
http://home.sprynet.com/~mrhell/oakbud.htm

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 10:41:17 -0400
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Lost Keys

Cutting keys from the VIN number is an old wise tale, at least for newer
older cars (1950+).  Call a locksmith like the other guy suggested.  They
will be able to fit a key to the existing locks and ignition, no problem.

RC Hellebuyck  -  OCA #30213
1971 4-4-2 convt
See my car and over 40 other Olds' at:
http://home.sprynet.com/~mrhell/oakbud.htm


- -----Original Message-----
From: Sue Lambert <slam@tdstelme.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, April 23, 1999 8:19 AM
Subject: Lost Keys


>Is there any business that makes up keys from your V.I.N.?  Someone lost
>
>my son's car keys and he did not have spares.  It is for a 87 Oldsmobile
>
>Calais.  The local dealerships provide that service but they cannot go
>back to 87.  They only go back to either 88 or 89.  Any ideas of any
>businesses with the ability to do Oldsmobile keys for this year (1987)?
>
>Thanks,
>Sue
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 11:04:52 EDT
From: Godsenior1@aol.com
Subject: oldsmobile digest

unsubscribe.            thank you

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 11:18:33 -0400
From: Scott Parker <blu442@banet.net>
Subject: PAGING STEVE MINORE

Steve, please contact me at sparker442@banet.net.  Your e-mail is down
and I'm wondering about my hood hinges...
Thanks.
Scott Parker

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 11:16:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: vfquick442@webtv.net (markas)
Subject: Re: Brothers  NO FLUKE

Unfortunately, What you say is true,(Brothers) ONTH the others are top
notch Fusick is FAST and they have taken back stuff not used, no
problem,after months on my shelf. Oldsheads to boot!Any  help with my
radio slde switch question?
Tanxalot

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 11:45:01 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: My engine`s home

I've never seen a Dyno but it occurs to me that the two figures MAY be
crankshaft Vs. corrected for real wheel figures. The Tranny and rear end eat
Hp. to operate. Just a thought. Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

"Windows-98 is a 32 bit extension and Graphical shell
for a 16 bit patch to an 8 bit operating system originally
coded for a 4 bit microprocessor, written by a 2 bit
company, that can't stand 1 bit of competition."

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 1999 3:12 AM
Subject: Re: My engine`s home


> What type of switch is he talking about?
> Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
> ----------
> > From: Corey Putnam <hurst455@webtv.net>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Re: My engine`s home
> > Date: Friday, April 23, 1999 6:58 PM
> >
> >   One more thing I was told about the dyno run was that "if I had wanted
> > to see better numbers we could have flipped a switch and produced 30
> > more HP and 40 more lbs of torque. Something we do when our customers
> > are really expecting some big numbers." Doesn`t that just grab you by
> > the boys?
> >
> > Corey Putnam
> > 75 H/O W-30
> > 87 Regal w/Olds 455
> > http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 11:46:32 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: More Adventures From Inside The Dash...LONG, INTERESTING

>Oil light should be removed. There wasn't one with the gage package. It's
>probably bypassing the gage. Temp sender is supposed to be a special unit
>with ~both~ a variable resistance element and an over-temp switch (2-wires).
>If you use an on-off sender unit, you could destroy the gage by putting too
>much current through it.
>
>drc
> 

I am beginning to think that this is the correct answer to the problem.
The only question is, "How do you know this?"

The part about the Temp sender makes perfect sense - I think I crossed the
wires somewhere, but I think what you said is how it's supposed to be.
HOWEVER, my interpretation of the ETM leads me to believe that there WAS an
Oil/Choke light that DID WORK in conjunction with the gauge package.

What basis do you have for proposing that there's not an Oil idiot light
AND a an Oil gauge at the same time? (This is not a personal challenge , as
in "DRAW, YA' VARMIT!" - I would just like to know where you got your
information from.)
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 11:18:12 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: GM 502 and a Cutlass????

> The 502 needs a lot done to it to run like a worked olds. I have seen
these at
> the track and yes run great in a light car not so well in a heavy one

Well, nothing runs well in heavy cars compared to the same set-up in light
cars.  Weight is the best performance builder/hamprer.

you can hang your head in shame when they want to see your
> olds motor, and you show them what everyone else has

Agree.  Especially like the ones with BB Chevy's and home-made Oldsmobile
valve covers.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 13:26:05 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: GM 502 and a Cutlass????

In a message dated 4/23/99 11:42:05 PM Central Daylight Time, 
dfoster@uky.campuscwix.net writes:

<<   Has anyone tried putting one of these in a 71 Cutlass? Will it work?
 Before everybody gets angry, this car already has a Chevelle rearend and
 "76" 455. A brand new 502hp 502 engine is considerably cheaper than building
 a 455 the way I want it. If I ever get wealthy I'll go all Olds but for now
 I need my car back to life!!! Fast is the Key here. Big block is also a
 must. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Don
  >>
  Just use 71 Chevelle big block chevy motor mounts...it will work, but you 
may have to do a lot of re-wiring and moving of components...needless to say 
that all of you brackets will be useless as well.

Collyn

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 11:32:43 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: How to hook up 2 oil pressure senders.

Hi all,
	is there a way to hook 2 oil pressure senders up and how do you do it? 
I'd like an aftermarket gauge (I really want a rally pac but you know
what I mean) and the light on/off sender to run an emergency cut-off and
buzzer.  There is just the one threaded hole for oil on a '70 455 block
so can it be done?  I'd like to have a buzzer like a stall warning in a
plane if I ever lose pressure and a cut off of power to the
distributor.  I'd manually by-pass the system to start the car with a
hidden switch to deter thieves.  If this is a stupid idea then please
say so now.

	Also, is there any use for bearing caps except to hold in the crank on
the motor they came off of?  I have a set for a 455 but I threw the
block away years ago (cracked) and other than paperweights I have no use
for them.

TIA,
- -- 

Cliff "off to buy parts for the big motor swap <grin>" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 13:52:17 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: SW with a DIESEL engine (fwd)

Dr. Pedro E. Andrieu wrote:
> 
> Dear Greg:
> 
> I am amazed at the number of messages and the amount of info I can get from
> most of them.
> 
> But I keep waiting for an answer for me!
> 
> APPARENTLY NOBODY KNOWS ANYTHING ABOUT A GOOD OLDS DIESEL STATION WAGON  I
> very much like to buy !!!
> 
> KEEP WAITING....
> 
> HAVE A NICE WEEKEND
> 
> PEDRO

Sorry but most of the diesel olds cars are crushed or in junkyards, so
it won't be easy finding one.  The diesel Olds was unpopular with the
general public in the United States.  It's rare to see ~any~ diesel
automobile over here.  Diesel engines just didn't go over well with car
buyers in this country.  When the engine in a diesel olds died they were
usually sold to the scrap yard because no one wanted to bother fixing
it. 

The best way to find one is in the used car sections of trading posts
and newspapers.   The various internet classified ad websites are a good
place to look to.  You might also try posting an ad on www.442.com in
the cars wanted section.

Good luck.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme 
80 Cutlass Calais
73 98 LS

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 12:54:58 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Why a C body?

>  My eldest son was commuting to school yesterday (Georgia State, academic
>scholarship, shameless plug) along I-85 at 75 MPH when, of all things, he
>was rear ended!  At 75 MPH!  The driver behind him was talking on one of
>those hand held cel phones, not paying attention to the job at hand
(staying
>out of Big Blue's bumper).  I inquired into the range and extent of damage.
>He told me the pickup that hit him was pretty messed up.  I asked about our
>'70 98.  Well, he said, there was a mark on the bumper, but it rubbed off.
>  That is the third time he has been hit since he got his license, and he
>has come home for dinner every time.  And that is Why a C Body.
>  All y'all be careful out there, here?  Peter.


Peter,
I had the same thing happen about two weeks ago.  Was hit by a
grand am while I was sitting at a stop sign.  Damage to his car
was pretty good, he needs a new headlight/turn signal, hood,
bumper, and fender.  My 68 got some white paint on it!  Maybe
I'll get it off this weekend.  LOL

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 14:07:54 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: How to hook up 2 oil pressure senders.

Cliff Simpson wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
>         is there a way to hook 2 oil pressure senders up and how do you do 
it?
> I'd like an aftermarket gauge (I really want a rally pac but you know
> what I mean) and the light on/off sender to run an emergency cut-off and
> buzzer.  There is just the one threaded hole for oil on a '70 455 block
> so can it be done?

It's pretty easy to hook up 2 oil pressure senders.  You just need to
take one of your senders to the hardware store and find a "T" fitting
that it can screw into.  Then get the shortest legnth of pipe you can
find (probably 1" or 2") that fits the T-fitting.  Screw the pipe into
the block and then screw the T-fitting onto the pipe.  You can then
attatch your senders to the two ends that are left in the T-fitting.  I
did this to add a mechanical oil gauge and keep the idiot light.  It
works very well.


Since I'm not so sure I did a very good job describing it, here's a bad
drawing of what mine looks like. :)


             Oil gauge  
                 \/   
               _______
               |     |
               |     |
           ____|     |
   Idiot  |          |            
   Light> |          |
          |____      |  
               |     |
               |     |
               |_____|
                |   |
                |   |
                |   |  
             ___|___|_______    
  
                 Block


Hope that helps.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais
73 98 LS

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 14:02:59 -0400
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: How to hook up 2 oil pressure senders.

> is there a way to hook 2 oil pressure senders up and how do you do it?

Hey Cliff,

I imagine this would look rather strange, but if you went to your local
hardware store and found a Tee fitting it would work. Are you planning on
using 1 mechanical and 1 electric gauge or 2 electric gauges?

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 14:07:19 EDT
From: DrkSole96@aol.com
Subject: Re: How to hook up 2 oil pressure senders.

In a message dated 4/24/99 12:32:54 PM Central Daylight Time, 
csimpson@ucalgary.ca writes:

<< Hi all,
 	is there a way to hook 2 oil pressure senders up and how do you do 
it? 
 I'd like an aftermarket gauge (I really want a rally pac but you know
 what I mean) and the light on/off sender to run an emergency cut-off and
 buzzer.  There is just the one threaded hole for oil on a '70 455 block
 so can it be done?  I'd like to have a buzzer like a stall warning in a
 plane if I ever lose pressure and a cut off of power to the
 distributor.  I'd manually by-pass the system to start the car with a
 hidden switch to deter thieves.  If this is a stupid idea then please
 say so now.
  >>
Well, I've got an autometer mechanical oil pressure gauge, and teh stock 
warning light hooked up.  I did it by using the stock brass elbow that you 
need with the rallye gauges, then used a 1" piece of pipe in that with a T 
fitting on the end.  I used copper tubing for the gauge, hooked it up to the 
drivers side of the T, screwed the stock sending into the passenger side, had 
to route the wire to it around the themostat.    Something similiar should 
work for what you want to do.

Donovan Moser
73 Cutlass Supreme
DrkSole96@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 15:15:48 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: WTB '51 88 Convert

First of several UNBOUNCES I'm forwarding... been a while, these have
backed up. Snowing here today so I'm not out in the Cutlass. :(

Not on the list, respond to kkayser@execpc.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Kenneth L Kayser <kkayser@execpc.com>
Subject: buyer

I would like to buy a 1951 88 convertible, restored or in good original
condition.  Any ideas of where to look other than Hemmings and Old Car
trader?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 15:17:34 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Odd Oil Color?

I thought Andrew was on the list, maybe not. Respond to
geetinag@miavx1.muohio.edu if you can assist.

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Andrew Geeting <geetinag@miavx1.muohio.edu>
Subject: Odd oil color!?

Hello everyone,
     I've been meaning to ask if anyone would know why my oil is red? It
isn't red on the dipstick nor when I drain it for an oil change. The only
place I find this oily red substance is in the air  cleaner. Looks like it
is coming through the breather hole out of the valve cover. It looks like I
have transmission fluid in the oil.
     Some people have told me that the only way this could be is if my
block was cracked and the transmission was leaking, which I don't think it
is.
     I would like to find out because I'm putting a 455 in it ('87 Olds
Cutlass) this summer and don't want to contaminate the new engine!

Thanks.

Andrew Geeting
geetinag@miavx1.muohio.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 15:19:12 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Sick '67 4-4-2

Not on the list, respond to wdecarol@us.oracle.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	William DeCarolis <wdecarol@us.oracle.com>
Subject: H*lp with a sick 442

I am the owner of a sick '67  442.  The problem is that when the gas
tank gets to about 1/2 empty I do not get enough gas to the carborator.
This happens especially when I am going uphill.  To remedy the problem I
have:

Installed an electric fuel pump.
Replaced the fuel sock on the gas sending unit
Replaced the carborator

Has anyone ever heard of or seen this problem before.

Any hlp is appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill DeCarolis

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 15:21:13 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: [none]

Not on the list, respond to nancy@osaminc.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Nancy Mylrea <nancy@osaminc.com>
Subject: 1980 442 W30

I have recently acquired a 1980 442 W30 white with gold trim. I have
just finished a complete overhaul of the engine. I am ready to begin
repainting, and I am interested in finding where I might get detailed
information on the paint scheme. If anyone has leads please let me know.
I have seen the two 442's that are on the internet, but it doesn't give
me detail. thanks,  Bud

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 15:22:26 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Bad Vibrations

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Dr. Olds - K. Wood)
Subject: H*lp- Bad Vibrations!

Here is a problem I really need ideas with...
At 80 Miles per hour- or so, I get a pulsating
vibration.  I've tried a lot of things, but I just
can't narrow it down yet.  Here's the deal...

Non-original 455 engine.  Long tail TH400,
GTO 3.55 10 bolt rear.  15" bolt on center caps
from a 73 or 74 Cutlass.  235 70R15's in front,
275 60R15's out back.  

Vibrates only at this speed- maybe higher too, 
haven't tried it.---
Using same RPM range in 2nd gear- no vibration---
Have had tires & wheels balanced- that's is not it. (even used an extra
set of wheels- no difference)---
Had new driveshaft made last winter- balanced.
- -
Had rearend re-geared and rebuilt- all new everything - last year---
The vibration is definitely not in the front end- had an alignment done-
don't feel any vibration
in the steering wheel whatsoever.
- ---
This vibration has travelled from one car to 
another-  the whole drivetrain was used in my
last Cutlass- every nut and bolt.  

- ---I'm thinking maybe it's in the transmission now- because that's the
only thing I haven't
messed with.  The problem has been with me
ever since about 7 years ago when I had the
engine and transmission built- at the same time-  I have pretty good
faith in the motor- but
is it possible it could cause this vibration only
at 80mph, but not at the same rpm under no
or different load conditions?

Sorry about the long message, but I would like
the problem figured out.  I really thought I was on to something with
the driveshaft...  But a brand new one- fresh tube, all new joints, and
balanced didn't change a dang thing.

Help?!?!?!?!

Kevin- Hartford, WI
Dr-Olds@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 12:41:11 -0300
From: apahorvi@entelchile.net (Aquiles Patricio Hormazabal Villagran)
Subject: Re:Paint Codes

Este es un mensaje multipartes en formato MIME.
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Hello,
            Does anybody nown where can I found a Oldsmobile paint palette and 
its
convertion to Glasurit paint codes. I am selecting the color for my 67 Cuttlas
Supreme to paint it, and I would like to use the Photoshop software to choose 
it.

Thank You very much for some information.

Aquiles

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email;internet: apahorvi@entelchile.net
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 15:01:14 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Fan Clutch?

Well here is the temperature dilemma. On my 72 442 455 car I installed a
mechanical temp gauge. The thermostat opens at 195*. When the car is
driving the temperature drops to 170*. When I pull up to a stop it will
heat up to 210* and then the second I begin to accelerate it drops to 170*.


I have a direct fan clutch(non-thermal). Could the fan be drawing in that
much air when it gets up to 200RPM that it cools the coolant down 30* -
40*? IT is a six blade factory fan. Should I switch to a thermostatically
controlled fan? If yes what kind (temp)?

Also when I had a 160* thermostat the engine would run at 160* but when I
would accelerate it dropped to 140*.....


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 16:03:35 EDT
From: QWKCUTLASS@aol.com
Subject: Re: GM 502 and a Cutlass????

Hey, i've seen a 502 in a 73 cutlass, so i don't see why it wouldn't work in 
your car, motor mounts are the same so everything should fall into place.  
The only thing is if you are runnin a Olds trans you'll need an adapter plate 
to make the engine but up to the tranny.  good luck.
Sam

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 15:05:08 -0500
From: "Greg" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Aftermarket gauges:Electronic/Mechanical

I too have a full set of electrical auto-meter guages.  I have not had a
problem and they're a few years old.  I don't like the idea of having oil
and water lines under the dash.

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 16:08:17 EDT
From: QWKCUTLASS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fan Clutch?

I have a 160 thrmo. in my car, with a direct clutch and it runs inbetween 150 
and 180, depending on the temp of the weather.  usually if its cold the car 
runs at 150 to 160,  the only thing i can think of is to try to run a heavier 
antfreeze mix. i run a 70 to 30 mix.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 15:15:42 -0500
From: "Greg" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Olds vs. Porsche 911 turbo

I tried to race a red (of course) porsche 911 turbo from 45mph and up.  I
hit the gas and pulled in front of him.  Little did I know, but he slowed a
little bit just to get into a lower gear.  Then a horrendously loud whoosing
sound and a red blur shot past me.  He was out of sight after several
seconds...  Oh well, if I had spent $100,000, I'd expect to go that fast
too.

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 15:09:28 -0500
From: "Greg" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: How to hook up 2 oil pressure senders.

I did the same, but I put the sender on top of the "T" fitting and the
autometer sender (which is pretty big) on it's side.  At the right angle, it
just clears the fanbelt and powersteering pump.  Use teflon tape on the
threads.  I used brass fittings from the hardware store.

- -greg


- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, April 24, 1999 1:01 PM
Subject: Re: How to hook up 2 oil pressure senders.


>Cliff Simpson wrote:
>>
>> Hi all,
>>         is there a way to hook 2 oil pressure senders up and how do you
do it?
>> I'd like an aftermarket gauge (I really want a rally pac but you know
>> what I mean) and the light on/off sender to run an emergency cut-off and
>> buzzer.  There is just the one threaded hole for oil on a '70 455 block
>> so can it be done?
>
>It's pretty easy to hook up 2 oil pressure senders.  You just need to
>take one of your senders to the hardware store and find a "T" fitting
>that it can screw into.  Then get the shortest legnth of pipe you can
>find (probably 1" or 2") that fits the T-fitting.  Screw the pipe into
>the block and then screw the T-fitting onto the pipe.  You can then
>attatch your senders to the two ends that are left in the T-fitting.  I
>did this to add a mechanical oil gauge and keep the idiot light.  It
>works very well.
>
>
>Since I'm not so sure I did a very good job describing it, here's a bad
>drawing of what mine looks like. :)
>
>
>             Oil gauge
>                 \/
>               _______
>               |     |
>               |     |
>           ____|     |
>   Idiot  |          |
>   Light> |          |
>          |____      |
>               |     |
>               |     |
>               |_____|
>                |   |
>                |   |
>                |   |
>             ___|___|_______
>
>                 Block
>
>
>Hope that helps.
>
>Greg Pruett
>72 Vista Cruiser
>67 Cutlass Supreme
>80 Cutlass Calais
>73 98 LS

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 14:46:17 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: How to hook up 2 oil pressure senders.

Thanks everyone for the info, I will go to the hardware store and buy me
a T fitting.

RANDY A GEISEL wrote:
> 
> Hey Cliff,
> 
> I imagine this would look rather strange, but if you went to your local
> hardware store and found a Tee fitting it would work. Are you planning on
> using 1 mechanical and 1 electric gauge or 2 electric gauges?

One electric gauge sender and one electric idiot light sender.  When my
pressure drops I hope to have the spark shut off and a buzzer start
sounding in the cab.  That's the idea anyway :)
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 14:07:43 -0700
From: BC <beastmaster@earthlink.net>
Subject: 1969 442 

Ok Cutlass crowd,
I just looked at a 1969 442 Hardtop, it is stock, missing the olds rims and 
steering
wheel, and a couple of pieces of brightwork (trim). Upholstery shot but seats 
are
there and still in shape, center console(th400), dash, gauges, clock and am/fm 
radio
are all there in good shape but very filthy. Carpet shot and wet, some rust in
floorboards though not rusted thru yet. Door panels are ok, windows need to be 
rebuilt
but they are there. Engine(big block) intact not running, the red air cleaner 
still on
car, stock exhaust. Front and rear bumpers are there and in good shape,  
lights and
lenses all there and in good shape, all 442 emblems present. Trunk in good 
shape
(covered in oil, smells like used motor oil), no rust apparent. Body has rust 
in
several places, quarter panels rusted thru at the rear part of the wheel well 
and
along the line where the trim piece for the vinyl roof meets the paint (both 
sides),
fenders also rusted thru at the rear part of wheel well, roof rusted thru at 
the top
of the windshield under the vinyl (*almost the whole length). Is this car worth
salvaging and at what price. Your help is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Bruce
70 Delta 88 Conv
75 Delta 88 Royale Conv

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 17:22:50 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Rainy Day Doggie

There's a question for the techies here...but first some background.

Years ago I was silly enough to roadrace bikes. I remember seeing the expert
class 2-stroke guys tweaking their carb jets to compensate for weather
conditions at the track.

Further...
I once had a V-6 Omega that ran its absolute best on rainy days. Had it for
190,000 miles, so I know it wasn't my imagination.

Now....
My 307 is just the opposite. Kinda lame on a nice day, but a major bow-wow
in the rain. Have to put my foot into the Q-jet to make it uphill.

So...
I'm thinkin' that barometric pressure must affect air fuel ratio, no? Can I
deduce from this that my motor is running lean or rich or whatever? Or does
all that get compensated for somehow by magic?

Or...
None of the above.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 18:08:56 -0400
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Rainy Day Doggie

> I once had a V-6 Omega that ran its absolute best on rainy days. Had it
for
> 190,000 miles, so I know it wasn't my imagination.
> My 307 is just the opposite. I'm thinkin' that barometric pressure must
affect >air fuel ratio, no? Can I  deduce from this that my motor is running
lean or rich >or whatever? Or does  all that get compensated for somehow by
magic?

Dave,

You're right. Rainy days, (cools days too) low barometric pressure. The air
is heavier (denser) and on a hot sunny day the air is thinner. That's why a
1/4 miler will lose a few tenths as the day heats up. Unless you tweak it a
bit.

Can't give you any tips on how to compensate for this. I'm not that
knowledgeable.......yet. ;)  I would say you need to set-up the carb
somewhere in the middle to it'll perform evenly in any weather.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 17:01:21 -0400
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Olds vs. Porsche 911 turbo

Geez man, your car really sucks.



just kidding!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Greg
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 1999 4:16 PM
To: Olds list
Subject: Olds vs. Porsche 911 turbo


I tried to race a red (of course) porsche 911 turbo from 45mph and up.  I
hit the gas and pulled in front of him.  Little did I know, but he slowed a
little bit just to get into a lower gear.  Then a horrendously loud whoosing
sound and a red blur shot past me.  He was out of sight after several
seconds...  Oh well, if I had spent $100,000, I'd expect to go that fast
too.

- -greg

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 18:37:13 -0400
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: TCC solenoid on 700R4

I know that there is a TCC solenoid on my 700R4 trans, because it is
acting up, and I have had to unplug it to make the car driveable.  Where
is this located on this trans?  I know where the one is in the 200R4. 
Is it in the same place or completely different?  
Thanks,
Brian.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 17:57:40 -0700
From: Andy Lawrence <lawrencj@coral.indstate.edu>
Subject: Re: GM 502 and a Cutlass????

QWKCUTLASS@aol.com wrote:

> Hey, i've seen a 502 in a 73 cutlass, so i don't see why it wouldn't work in
> your car, motor mounts are the same so everything should fall into place.
> The only thing is if you are runnin a Olds trans you'll need an adapter plate
> to make the engine but up to the tranny.  good luck.
> Sam

the Mounts ARE NOT the same, you will need a set of 68 to 72 Bigblock
mounts(maybe Smallbock are the same) from a Chevelle, then it will bolt right
in!  Then you can just buy regular Chevelle headers and bolt them right on....I
have done a Bigblock Cutlass swap and made a bad decision to Fab my own mounts,
then the headers didn't line up and i had to do it all over agian....The swap 
is
easy and will be cheaper than building an Olds counterpart! But then you will 
be
a trader, just like i was!!  I recommend building an olds motor!

Bigblock

79 Olds(410ci)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 19:26:27 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <Berusch@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Olds vs. Porsche 911 turbo

I had a similar experience with a 930 Porsche that I had the effrontery to
challenge with a turbo ZX.  I was appropriately embarrased.  He came by me
like a freight train while I was busting 120 MPH.  He must have had me by 30
MPH.  But, like you say, if I had 6 digits in an aluminium box, I'd want at
least to go fast.  Peter.


>I tried to race a red (of course) porsche 911 turbo from 45mph and up.  I
>hit the gas and pulled in front of him.  Little did I know, but he slowed a
>little bit just to get into a lower gear.  Then a horrendously loud
whoosing
>sound and a red blur shot past me.  He was out of sight after several
>seconds...  Oh well, if I had spent $100,000, I'd expect to go that fast
>too.
>
>-greg
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 20:49:13 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: Rainy Day Doggie

On the rainy days is your engine stumbling? Could very well be ignition
problems too. Bad wires that are arcing in the dampness.  Or even a bad
distributor cap also causing a cross arc between wire terminals. Look for
any carbon arcing tracks.  Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

"Windows-98 is a 32 bit extension and Graphical shell
for a 16 bit patch to an 8 bit operating system originally
coded for a 4 bit microprocessor, written by a 2 bit
company, that can't stand 1 bit of competition."
- ----- Original Message -----
From: RANDY A GEISEL <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 1999 6:08 PM
Subject: Re: Rainy Day Doggie


>
>
> > I once had a V-6 Omega that ran its absolute best on rainy days. Had it
> for
> > 190,000 miles, so I know it wasn't my imagination.
> > My 307 is just the opposite. I'm thinkin' that barometric pressure must
> affect >air fuel ratio, no? Can I  deduce from this that my motor is
running
> lean or rich >or whatever? Or does  all that get compensated for somehow
by
> magic?
>
> Dave,
>
> You're right. Rainy days, (cools days too) low barometric pressure. The
air
> is heavier (denser) and on a hot sunny day the air is thinner. That's why
a
> 1/4 miler will lose a few tenths as the day heats up. Unless you tweak it
a
> bit.
>
> Can't give you any tips on how to compensate for this. I'm not that
> knowledgeable.......yet. ;)  I would say you need to set-up the carb
> somewhere in the middle to it'll perform evenly in any weather.
>
> Randy
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 20:57:05 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Jetfire Turbo @ Carlisle

Did any of you see the Jetfire Turbo setup in "T" building for
$2500.00?????  To think that I sold one of these a few years ago for a
lousy $400... (and mine was nicer!)

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 20:56:50 -0400
From: "Kelly McCuller" <kmcculler@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: 1970 W-31 Pace Car, whats it worth??

Chevy wheels, Mickey Thompson valve covers, 400 instead of 455, no ram air,
and bench seats? Doesn't seem right to me.

- -----Original Message-----
From: ed <ed@techniflite.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, April 24, 1999 3:41 AM
Subject: Re: 1970 W-31 Pace Car, whats it worth??


>I'm surprised it doesn't have the original W-31 pace car center caps on the
>wheels!  LOL
>----- Original Message -----
>From: J&T <tjf26@gte.net>
>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Sent: Friday, April 23, 1999 6:26 PM
>Subject: Re: 1970 W-31 Pace Car, whats it worth??
>
>
>> According to the description, it says this is a matching numbers car with
>the
>> ram air. I didn't see the OAI air cleaner and it has a 400ci motor. Last
>year I
>> believe for that was 69. Chevy Rims:(-
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 21:22:00 -0400
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Jetfire Turbo @ Carlisle

Didn't get to Building "T", maybe tomorrow. Did you see the car on the hill
with the Turbo set-up? Forget the price.......

Randy


> Did any of you see the Jetfire Turbo setup in "T" building for
> $2500.00?????  To think that I sold one of these a few years ago for a
> lousy $400... (and mine was nicer!)
>
> Paul
> --
> Paul Hartlieb
> Myerstown, PA
> mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 18:32:48 -0700
From: "Mike Sealey" <ninetyeight@angelfire.com>
Subject: Re: 1970 W-31 Pace Car, whats it worth??

 
- --

On Fri, 23 Apr 1999 20:26:15   J&T wrote:
>According to the description, it says this is a matching numbers car with the
>ram air. I didn't see the OAI air cleaner and it has a 400ci motor. Last year 
I
>believe for that was 69. Chevy Rims:(-
>


What race does it claim to be a pace car or pace car 
replica from?  I thought the '70 Indy 500 was paced by
a D*dg* Ch*ll*ng*r, and AFAIK no replicas of anyone 
else's pace car...

Mike Sealey
'69 Ninety Eight Holiday Sedan
(Another C-body Fan)


Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail. http://www.angelfire.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 21:36:50 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: 1970 W-31 Pace Car, whats it worth??

Mike Sealey wrote:

> What race does it claim to be a pace car or pace car
> replica from?  


The "Grand National".

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 21:40:17 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Jetfire Turbo @ Carlisle

RANDY A GEISEL wrote:
> 
> Didn't get to Building "T", maybe tomorrow. Did you see the car on the hill
> with the Turbo set-up? Forget the price.......
> 
> Randy

No, didn't see that one, but I did see a rather spiffy looking '63
Starfire convertible.  Sharp car, but the chrome was awful.  16K
original miles, but poor chrome due to barn storage.  If that had been a
'62 I'd have been in trouble...

Did anybody meet today at the raffle cars @ Noon?  I headed over that
way around 12:15, but didn't see any "Oldsmobile-types".  Had my Olds
sweatshirt hidden under my jacket, so likely no one saw me either.  I
was following a guy carrying a '68 Cutlass bumper, tho...

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 21:38:00 -0400
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 1970 W-31 Pace Car, whats it worth??

> I thought the '70 Indy 500 was paced by a D*dg* Ch*ll*ng*r, and AFAIK no
replicas of anyone  else's pace car...

Off by a year, Mike.

1970 was paced by 442
1971 was paced by a Mopar of some sort. That's the one the driver crashed
going into the pits.
1972 Olds again!

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 21:54:15 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Carlisle purchases

So, what did you folks buy at Carlisle?

I got away relatively cheap this year:

'72 Olds SPECS book - $4.  That was a bargain!  I needed a new one, I
wore my old one out - the cover came off.  Look for my old one on eBay
in the near future.

'72 Olds backup light housing - $10.  Ouch!  Didn't wanna pay that, but
it was the only one I saw and it sure beats laying in the mud at the
junk yard removing one from a wreck (and I checked it already and it
works!)

"Genuine Chevrolet" license plate - $4.  For the front of my Blazer, I
hate empty license plate holders!  Actually, I hate full ones too, but
this one is molded into the bumper and looks stupid with nothing in it.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 21:59:53 -0400
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Carlisle purchases

> So, what did you folks buy at Carlisle?


Weatherstripping, a fender, and ordered window felts (fuzzies) for the H/O.

Paul, You didn't happen to see a guy outside gate #7 with a 69 400 motor in
a little trailer for sale? I may have to come home with it tomorrow as I
broke the crank in my 350 today. Shot a rod right thru the oil pan! OUCH

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 22:11:24 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Carlisle purchases

RANDY A GEISEL wrote:
 
> Paul, You didn't happen to see a guy outside gate #7 with a 69 400 motor in
> a little trailer for sale? 

No, I don't think so.  Which gate is #7?  I don't think I was near that
one.

> I may have to come home with it tomorrow as I
> broke the crank in my 350 today. Shot a rod right thru the oil pan! OUCH

Yikes!  Guess I shouldn't complain about the $10 housing!

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 20:21:31 +0300
From: john schiffman <joschiff@flash.net>
Subject: Re: 1969 442

check the most recent classic magazine for values and it tells you a
range of between $7000 and $10,000, but check the latest Journey with
Olds and you will find one restored for $19,000.  I like the '69 body
style of all but you may want the larger engine.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 22:15:17 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: gauges and warning light ?????

In a message dated 4/22/99 11:44:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
72hurst@net-email.com writes:

<< As far as I know the brake light
 only comes on when the parking park is applied, or the brake pedal goes to
 the floor IE: NO BRAKES! >>

I hope you never had to test the light that way.  I wouldn't want to see the 
results.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 21:45:11 -0500 (CDT)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Dr. Olds - K. Wood)
Subject: Jefferson.

Beware Jefferson, WI attendees-  wear a hat
or sunscreen on Sunday. I was there all day today and got a pretty nice
sunburned face...
By the way- all the guys who are supposed to
meet at Brett's car Sunday at 11:00-- fear not.
I met him today and he's a real nice guy.  You
never know!   Look forward to seeing everybody Sunday.  If you plan to
hit the swap meet looking for Olds parts- don't get too excited, because
there are only a few dealers with Olds
stuff as usual...  

Take Care,
Kevin 
Dr-Olds@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 22:45:35 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: 25th Anniversary (was pulling a Churchill)

In a message dated 4/23/99 12:29:46 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
supercars@transport.com writes:

<< I thought I'd 
 chime in because today is my 25th anniversary.
 ....With my race car that is.   >>

Congratulations Greg.  I'm sure just like marriage, it's been 25 years with 
both good times and bad.  With the good hopefully out weighing the bad.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 22:50:05 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: L35 ?? color page??she is gold??

In a message dated 4/23/99 1:39:12 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
76Cutlass@netscape.net writes:

<< whats the L35  stand  for in this 350  >>

In 1972 the L35 was the 350 4 barrel high compression engine.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 23:06:11 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1970 W-31 Pace Car, whats it worth??

In a message dated 4/23/99 5:57:37 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
beastmaster@earthlink.net writes:

<< On eBay, no groans please, there is a
 listing for a '70 OLDS W-31  Pace Car,  >>

This car is 1 of 1,  I believe it to be a total fraud.  As soon as I saw the 
first picture of W-31 on the hood and then on the trunk.  Never happened, 
W-31 was only on the front fenders.  Wrong engine, wrong wheels, some people 
really have b*lls to pull something like this.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 23:29:25 -0400 (EDT)
From: catwoman-black@webtv.net (Jennifer Moore)
Subject: [none]

I recently bought my first Olds. about  eight months ago.  Its a '71
Cutlass Supreme.  Can anyone tell me what the difference is between a
Cutlass and a Cutlass Supreme is?

Thanks : ) 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 23:42:01 EDT
From: Biscayne2d@aol.com
Subject: Re: Jefferson.

Sorry everyone but I wont be able to make it up there this year was looking 
forward to it but it aint gonna happen :(  Oh well maybe next year

Paul in WI
79 Olds Powered Regal

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 22:57:59 -0500
From: "72Hurst" <72hurst@net-email.com>
Subject: Re: gauges and warning light ?????

Thankfully, never with the Hurst. Unfortunately several times with some of
the "quality" work vans I used to drive, but thats another story.
John
72hurst@net-email.com

> << As far as I know the brake light
>  only comes on when the parking park is applied, or the brake pedal goes
to
>  the floor IE: NO BRAKES! >>
>
> I hope you never had to test the light that way.  I wouldn't want to see
the
> results.
>
> Lou Principe
> 69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 23:17:44 -0500
From: texas442 <texas442@flash.net>
Subject: Cutlass in a flood

I have the opportunity to purchase an inexpensive 72 Cutlass Supreme . 
The car is basically complete except it is missing the motor.  Here is
the shocker:  This car was parked in a garage (without a motor) when the
river flooded about a year ago.  The entire car was submerged under
water for about 12 hours.

I am asking the opinion of the list to see if this would be a
salvageable car or a parts car.  The car is basically straight with
minor rust in the quarters, but no major body damage.  I was not able to
check the floor pans, but I assume they are rusted from the water.  The
windows are good but they do not roll easily.  I know that the bucket
seats and door panels are mostly damaged but what about other mechanical
parts, like transmission, rear end.  I assume that all electrical
components will have to be replaces (starter, alt, harnesses, lights,
etc.).  What are your thoughts?  Would this be a salvageable car, or a
parts car?

Ali Zalzala
email:  texas442@flash.net
http://www.flash.net/~texas442

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 00:19:38 EDT
From: CChand4644@aol.com
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Bad Vibrations

I do not know for sure; however, depending on how long you have owned the 
tires, you can sometimes develop a permanent flat spot on your tires. 
Especially if they sit for long periods. Just a thought.
Chris.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 00:27:21 EDT
From: Bbymks4@aol.com
Subject: Re: the Differance between a supreme

            Well now, lets see, the Cutlass Supreme was "the" top of the line 
Cutlass
   as far as Luxury, and  styling was concerned. (Don't flame me over this 
one, it is
   strictly my opinion.) There are many types of Cutlass's starting with a 
basic
   F-85 Cutlass, The Cutlass "S", The Cutlass "SX", And the legendary 442. (We
   are talking older cars here.) The Supreme had more things on it that were 
standard
   equipment than most of these other cars did, but these other cars could 
still get
   most, or even all of the things that came with the Supreme. To simplify 
this, you 
   could say that they were like option packages, they were made to order 
for:            
   looks, power, styling, and budget. I hope this helps....
   from....Steve
   

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 21:33:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Larry <kajrav@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: GM 502 and a Cutlass????

Hi Don,

     I went to look at an advertised 3:42 rear that turned out to be a
3:23.  The gentleman that was selling the rear has a '70 Cutlass with
a 502 crate motor in it.  The car sounded real strong.  I may be able
to get his phone number again if you would like to ask him about the
installation of the engine.  He was using a Ch*vy 4:10 rear also. He
was selling the 4:10 and replacing it with a special built F*rd 9-inch
rear. Please e-mail me privately if you are interested.

                                           Larry

                                           





- ---Don Foster <dfoster@uky.campuscwix.net> wrote:
>
> Hi,
>   Has anyone tried putting one of these in a 71 Cutlass? Will it work?
> Before everybody gets angry, this car already has a Chevelle rearend
and
> "76" 455. A brand new 502hp 502 engine is considerably cheaper than
building
> a 455 the way I want it. If I ever get wealthy I'll go all Olds but
for now
> I need my car back to life!!! Fast is the Key here. Big block is
also a
> must. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Don
> 
> 

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 22:42:54 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: gauges and warning light ?????

LOUS69W30@aol.com wrote:
> 
> << As far as I know the brake light
>  only comes on when the parking park is applied, or the brake pedal goes to
>  the floor IE: NO BRAKES! >>
> 
> I hope you never had to test the light that way.  I wouldn't want to see the
> results.

It's not the worst thing that can happen, if the light comes on it means
one of the two (front and rear) circuits still has pressure and the
other does not.  If you lost pressure in both circuits then the light
wouldn't come on and you'd have no brakes.

I found out about this the hard way when my brakes went south one
winter.  Install a new master, couldn't bleed it, paid to have it bled. 
One week later light comes on and brakes are going, paid to have a
different master installed.  One week later light comes on and brakes
go, use the emerg. to limp to the shop, a new caliper.  One week later
light comes on, limp to shop, they say they will only warranty the job
if they replace everything that they have not already replaced including
all the lines, hoses, and the proportioning valve.  I ask if they would
replace that funny little block under the master cylinder, they say they
can't get them so the wouldn't.  I found a brake metering valve (the
little block) at a wreckers and installed it and the problem went away. 
I never did pay to have them replace the rest of the system.

I hate brake shops!
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 22:46:46 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Cutlass in a flood

A friends Dodge Dakota was flooded about 6 years ago.  The insurance
paid to have it all cleaned out and the engine, tranny, and diff.
flushed and re-filled.  He got a lot of conflicting advice about the
possible problems but up to now he has had non.

HTH,
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 22:53:39 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: 1969 442

Have a professional bodyman give you an estimate on fixing all the rust
correctly (new metal).  Take that and add 25-50% to be safe in case
there more problems when they get the vinyl off and such.  Now get some
Catalogs and figure out how much you would have to spend to replace the
missing and ugly/un-repairable stuff.  Figure full rebuild on a 455 to
replace the motor, it will cost the same or less than the 400 and put
out much more power.

If you haven't had a stroke at the cost by now then maybe you should
save it.  If it's too expensive and you part it out then I have dibs on
the rally pac :)

Good luck, let us know how it goes,
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 01:01:09 -0300
From: apahorvi@entelchile.net (Aquiles Patricio Hormazabal Villagran)
Subject: Re: Paint Codes

Hello,
            Does anybody nown where can I found a Oldsmobile paint palette and 
its
convertion to Glasurit paint codes. I am selecting the color for my 67 Cuttlas 
Supreme
to paint it, and I would like to use the Photoshop software to choose it.

Thank You very much for some information.

Aquiles Hormazabal
apahorvi@entelchile.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 22:13:21 -0700
From: BC <beastmaster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: 1969 442

Ok , I forgot one thing, please reference this back to my original posting,
WOULD YOU PAY $850 FOR THIS 442.
Regards,
Bruce

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 25 Apr 1999 01:18:13 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fan Clutch?

In a message dated 4/24/99 12:58:04 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
PETTRIX@prodigy.net writes:

<< I have a direct fan clutch(non-thermal). Could the fan be drawing in that
 much air when it gets up to 200RPM that it cools the coolant down 30* -
 40*? IT is a six blade factory fan. Should I switch to a thermostatically
 controlled fan? If yes what kind (temp)?
 
 Also when I had a 160* thermostat the engine would run at 160* but when I
 would accelerate it dropped to 140*.....
 
 
 Pettrix@prodigy.net
  >>

	Since my "problem" with my rebuilt 403 and overheating, I had the 
chance to do some observing of the operation and effect of the factory 
thermo/clutch fan at idle. Now I'm not saying my factory temp gauge is 
accurate temp wise, but it is consistent. It wouldn't "come on" until the 
gauge hit 220. Once it did, it would stay on until right around 180. You 
could hear it once it engaged, especially with the hood up. I'm not going to 
speculate on what temp actuation you should get though, but at some lowered 
thermostat temperature, the fan just won't be able to keep up with the 
engine's heat output at idle. 
										
								Dorian

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1922
*********************************

