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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1906


oldsmobile-digest      Thursday, April 15 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1906



Ring Gapping
Re: [Re: LOL350 man gets educated425style]
71 Cutlass Supreme Question
Gauge Package (Voltmeter)
Re: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass
Re: Hurst Parts
Re: Hurst Parts
Re: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass
More Pictures!
F/S New Parts
Re: 71 Cutlass Supreme Question
RE: 215 Turbo charged
Re: Door Panel carpet resto
Re: rod-stroke ratio
Re: 69 Body Tags (was: Re: Quincy new heart)
Re: Engine noise, stalling - fuel pump?
Re: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass
Re: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass
Re: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass
Re: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass
Re: shifter handle removal
Exhaust Parts needed
KKs Build date (was Re: 69 Body Tags (was: Re: Quincy new heart)
Charlotte Show
Re: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass
my wheel & tire story (long)
RE: Charlotte Show
new Edelbrock heads
Re: Charlotte Show
Re: Jetaway to TH350
Re: Gauge Package (Voltmeter)
attn. trans guys
Re: 68 air cleaner color???
Attn B Sanders
Re: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass
Re: Rear-End swap
Re: Jetaway to TH350
Re: fast-ratio steering boxes from F-bodies, again...
Electrical...
Re: steering box - good news for me!
Re: Gauge Package (Voltmeter)
E-mail address change
new heads
points to HEI, how?
RE: new heads
Re: Ring Gapping
Sorry.
Mounting pads
Re: Florida Sabbatical
Alternator question
unsubscribe oldsmobile
42 Dragway!
Re: G-tech
Re: 42 Dragway!
Re: [Re: [Re: LOL350 man gets educated425style]]

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 13:36:34 -0500
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: Ring Gapping

Hi all,

  As I've posted before, I'm in the midst of rebuilding a Toro 425 to
drop into my 442 some time this summer.  I'm in a quandry (and budget
locked) about which rings to use.  The block only has 26,000 miles on it
and is clean as can be with the exception of the pan having the plastic
that the original timing gears had on 'em from the factory.  I'll just
hone the block by hand.  Give that, I'll probably use cast rings and
wanted to know if anyone out there had a particular liking for one type
over another.  Also, given the cost of a ring gapper and the premium $
for file fits, are they worth it for my application?  Mondello shows
file fit cast rings for around $59 and the Speed Pro gapper for the
same.  This is the lowest I've seen 'em for and probably the way I'd go
if I do file fit.  Any real leakage concerns for using std. gap cast
rings for 5000 miles?  Yeah, I'd like to keep it below 5%, but I don't
want to shoot my minimal budget straight to hell in doing so.

Thanks.

Paul Brillhart
'65 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 14:41:55 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Re: LOL350 man gets educated425style]

In a message dated 99-04-14 00:10:47 EDT, you write:

<< how come this motor got a 2 barrel if I score the car for the motor where 
and how much $$ is a 4barrel intake manifold.havent got the car yet just gave 
the dude my number the other day .hope he calls soon  lolo >>

The 2v intake on the 425 is probably fairly common for 1965-1967 engines.
SOM for example.

In 1965, for the Dynamic 88 model, the "Delta" motor (or was it "98" motor) 
was a 4v carb (4GC) had for extra $$$, and the "Starfire" engine had the same 
4GC, but had higher compression (10.5:1 instead of 10.25:1) for a total of 
about 370hp.

With the air shroud off, you can hear the 425 wheeze through the 2v carb.

To go to a Quadrajet, go to a Ye Olde Junke Yarde and yank the 4v intake from 
any BB Oldsmobile 1966-1976. Mind that some years have divorced choke, with 
the others having provision for a choke heat stove.

All BB intakes interchange.
You could even use a W-30 intake, if you can afford them.
Or use the Edelbrock Performer, an adapter may be needed.

Edelbrock = $200+

Karl paid $26 for an intake from a 1976 Delta from a Yarde.

The Authentic 1965 4v intake is a one year only item and is a squarebore 
intake (does not fit Holley w/o using an adapter) for the 4GC carburetor.

That is, except for Mr. Rench's 1965 car.

BTW: 1966-67 are not that desireable unless fuel inlet has been modified.
Original diaphragm would fail, resulting in fire.
Found the 1973 Caddy Q-Jet in a 1966 "98".
Though it was original, very disappointed.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 14:44:17 -0400
From: Darren King <KingD@sx.com>
Subject: 71 Cutlass Supreme Question

Someone is selling a 71 Cutlass Supreme in my area.
It's a 2 door with a vinyl top.  The ad says it has a cassette
player in it and a sunroof.  Were either of these options
available on the 71?

Darren King

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 14:43:21 -0400
From: "jhurd" <jhurd@neo.rr.com>
Subject: Gauge Package (Voltmeter)

	I have a 1987 Olds Cutlass Salon and the Volt gauge always reads low
(around 10 volts with key on, engine off, and around 12 volts witht the car
running).  The battery was load tested and checked out ok.  I just replaced
the alternator (because of a bad rectifier) but the gauge still reads low.
Is this common for these gauges to be inaccurate, or could I have a problem
somewhere else?  TIA




Jim H.
'87 Salon

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 13:59:42 -0500
From: "Darrin Johnson" <xdarrinj@ti.com>
Subject: Re: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass

>Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 07:05:55 PDT
>From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
>Subject: Re: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass
>
>In comparing the left door to the right one, comparing the outside
>pushbutton, outside key lock, inside door handle and inside lock knob,
>which of those feel "different" from one side to the other? I.e. which
>feel like they're not working on the left side?

The inside lock knob and the outside key lock feel different from side to
side.  On the side that is stuck, the key will not turn very far to unlock
and the inside lock knob will only come up partway.

>Does the outside door button press in freely, the usual locked mode,
>or does it press in against major resistance?

The outside door button presses in freely.

>What exactly are you prying on?

On the latch/lock mechanism itself, there is a part/lever that sort of
rotates when the door lock knob is raised.  I was trying to pry this part
into the fully unlocked position.

>Can you feel whether the key lock on the outside will turn fully in
>both directions? How about the travel of the inside door lock plunger?
>Is the outside door button all the way out (as well as the rod on the
>back of it)? Inside door handle fully down/released?

The key lock on the outside does not turn fully in both directions.  The
inside door lock plunger can not be raised completely to the unlocked
position.  The door button and handle are both fully out/released.

>
>Finally, where are you? Maybe one of us can make a site visit...

Dallas, Texas area.

>
>- -- Andy

Darrin Johnson
72 Cutlass
Wylie, TX
xdarrinj@ti.com
djohnsn@ibm.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 15:14:53 -0400
From: Miguel Morales <Mike.Morales@wcom.com>
Subject: Re: Hurst Parts

After posting an item on ebay, I plan to post more. But before I do other parts
I'm sure I still have are:

 1. Lockup Solenoid.
 2. Behing dash Vehicle Speed Sensor.
 3. Temperature TVS switch Hurst/Olds for Code 14-15 not sure which. Definitely
not for gauge.
 4. Chiltons Green Book for the Olds Cutlass RWD 1 1/2" thick.
 5. Several Journey with Olds magazines.
 6. Used EGR Valve '84 Hurst/Olds , still good
 7. Used EGR Solenoid '84 Hurst/Olds, still good
 8. Some dash parts like gauge light sockets with bulbs for '84 H/O dash.
 9. New factory '84 307CID Vin '9' Hurst/Olds PROM Chip

Thanks for the interest.

What I have now H/O related are the following items:

3 SS-III Rally Rims, Used from 84 Hurst/Olds Red pin-stripe.

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=89180261

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 15:15:21 -0400
From: Miguel Morales <Mike.Morales@wcom.com>
Subject: Re: Hurst Parts

After posting an item on ebay, I plan to post more. But before I do other parts
I'm sure I still have are:

 1. Lockup Solenoid.
 2. Behind dash Vehicle Speed Sensor.
 3. Temperature TVS switch Hurst/Olds for Code 14-15 not sure which. Definitely
not for gauge.
 4. Chiltons Green Book for the Olds Cutlass RWD 1 1/2" thick.
 5. Several Journey with Olds magazines.
 6. Used EGR Valve '84 Hurst/Olds , still good
 7. Used EGR Solenoid '84 Hurst/Olds, still good
 8. Some dash parts like gauge light sockets with bulbs for '84 H/O dash.
 9. New factory '84 307CID Vin '9' Hurst/Olds PROM Chip

Thanks for the interest.

What I have now H/O related are the following items:

3 SS-III Rally Rims, Used from 84 Hurst/Olds Red pin-stripe.

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=89180261

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 15:21:41 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass

Ok, the driver side lock on my Camaro does the same thing if I pull on the
handle with the door locked. What I do when that happens is jiggle the
handle a little bit then with the key I turn it toward the lock position
and then the unlock position. Back and forth like that quickly. That
usually frees mine up. Only once was it bound up so bad that it wouldn't
come open. That day I managed to fabricate a tool to pop the lock slim-jim
style. Give that a try. Just keep working it. It should free up without
force. Mine always does. If not, take a piece of wire coathanger and bend a
the end into a hook "U". Get it down in the door and loop it around the
lock rod and yank up on it. Use patience!

Omega Man
'74 Omega S 455





At 01:59 PM 4/14/99 -0500, you wrote:
>>Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 07:05:55 PDT
>>From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
>>Subject: Re: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass
>>
>>In comparing the left door to the right one, comparing the outside
>>pushbutton, outside key lock, inside door handle and inside lock knob,
>>which of those feel "different" from one side to the other? I.e. which
>>feel like they're not working on the left side?
>
>The inside lock knob and the outside key lock feel different from side to
>side.  On the side that is stuck, the key will not turn very far to unlock
>and the inside lock knob will only come up partway.
>
>>Does the outside door button press in freely, the usual locked mode,
>>or does it press in against major resistance?
>
>The outside door button presses in freely.
>
>>What exactly are you prying on?
>
>On the latch/lock mechanism itself, there is a part/lever that sort of
>rotates when the door lock knob is raised.  I was trying to pry this part
>into the fully unlocked position.
>
>>Can you feel whether the key lock on the outside will turn fully in
>>both directions? How about the travel of the inside door lock plunger?
>>Is the outside door button all the way out (as well as the rod on the
>>back of it)? Inside door handle fully down/released?
>
>The key lock on the outside does not turn fully in both directions.  The
>inside door lock plunger can not be raised completely to the unlocked
>position.  The door button and handle are both fully out/released.
>
>>
>>Finally, where are you? Maybe one of us can make a site visit...
>
>Dallas, Texas area.
>
>>
>>- -- Andy
>
>Darrin Johnson
>72 Cutlass
>Wylie, TX
>xdarrinj@ti.com
>djohnsn@ibm.net
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 15:24:17 -0400
From: "Jason K. Adcock" <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: More Pictures!

Hey everyone.  I've got lots more pictures developed.  If you want to see
the new ones, or if you haven't seen ~any~ of them yet, head on over to:
http://members.xoom.com/jadcock/cutlass/pictures/pictures.html and have a
look.

For a direct link to a really bad picture of me with the car, take a look
at: http://members.xoom.com/jadcock/cutlass/pictures/me&g.jpg and try to
hold back your grins.  d:-)

Don't e-mail me and tell me I have too much time.  I assure you...I do.  <g>

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://members.xoom.com/jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 15:36:56 -0400
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: F/S New Parts

Hello everyone,

	We have lots of (NOS) and very nice used parts that just came in.

64-65 F-85/Cutlass/442 LH Fender (NOS)  $500.00
64 Cutlass/442 LH Front Turn Signal Lens (NOS)  $35.00
65 Cutlass/442 LH/RH Turn Lens (NOS)  $55.00 pr
65 Cutlass/442 LH Front Turn Signal Assm (NOS)  $65.00
67 Delmont88 / Delta 88 LH/RH Tail Light Lens (NOS)  $55.00 pr
68-72 Convertible Rear Lamp Lens (NOS) $15.00 pr
68 Stereo Fader Knob (NOS)  $17.00
69 Wiper Switches (NOS)  $50.00 ea
71-72 Sport Mirror Brackets (NOS)  $15.00 pr
70-72 Backup Lens (NOS)  $43.00 pr
71-77 Turn Signal Lever (NOS)  $22.00 ea
71-72 LH Front Turn Lens (NOS)  $47.00 
72 Hood Molding RH (NOS) $90.00

Used:
57-58 J-2 Intake & center carb base (no cracks)  $150.00
66-67 442 Automatic Trans Air Cleaner (MINT, MINT, MINT)  $250.00
67 AM/FM Radio (Mint)  $275.00
70-72 Dual Gate Top Plate & Front console plate (very nice)  $110.00
70 Sport Mirrors (Mint)  $175.00
70-72 AM/FM Stereo  $250.00
70  Cutlass Hood Tongue  $50.00
70 442 Hood Tongue $55.00

P.S. All who ordered gas tanks they are on there way!
Much more to follow.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts
(757)474-0869

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 15:35:38 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 71 Cutlass Supreme Question

...The ad says it has a cassette
player in it and a sunroof.  Were either of these options
available on the 71?...
_________

Nope.  Both are aftermarket add-ons.  The cassette player is not a concern
(except, of course, that the dash has probably been hacked up to make it fit),
but I've heard nothing but bad things about aftermarket sunroofs leaking.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 14:51:48 -0500
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@email.mot.com>
Subject: RE: 215 Turbo charged

215hp, not sure on torque.  One of the first engines to go into production
with 1 hp per CID.  

As long as you keep the water injection bag full!

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 00:19:49 -0400
From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com>
Subject: Re: Door Panel carpet resto

I second your motion.  Even better, that fabric/vinyl dye that Summitt sells
in spray cans also works great for carpet on doors (and no mess, mixing,
etc.).  I wouldn't try it on high wear carpeting areas, but did a fine job
on the door panel carpets on my '71.
- -----Original Message-----
From: markas <vfquick442@webtv.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 9:43 AM
Subject: Re: Door Panel carpet resto


Listers, Learned a great trick for restoring door panel carpet.Get RIT
black dye. Mix with alcohol, Put in pressurized spray bottle.Mask off
panel. Go to it. 2-3 coats works best. It is permanent and looks new. I
got idea from lady who dyes silk flowers.Sounded crazy enough to work
and after 3 years my panels look like new
and it beats buying new carpet.
Markas
                                                   70 442
P.S.  never tried on floor and advise taking umbrella out of beer first
Karl!!  (lol)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 13:03 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: rod-stroke ratio

Martin Thomas said:

>Smokey Yunick once said that the best bore/stroke ratio was 2:1.
>The ONLY engine I have found that comes close to 2:1 is the Pontiac 
>301. 6.050" Rod, 3.00" Stroke.  Pretty close to 2:1 wouldn't you say? 

I didn't know about the Pontiac 301. The next best candidate I know of 
are the Mopar 383 and 400 engines, both of which have a rod/stroke 
ratio of 1.88:1 - not quite 2:1, but pretty darn close!

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 15:16:31 -0500
From: Chris Smetana <chris@abcs.com>
Subject: Re: 69 Body Tags (was: Re: Quincy new heart)

> well my  69 442 has the 344879 on the cowl "fisher" tag so some of them
> had
> the right tag
> ________
>
> What's the build date on your 69?  Fisher Body definitely changed the
> numbering
> on the body tags sometime in 69 (since the 70s obviously have the
> 344...body
> tags).  I'd like to try and find out when this occurred.  Anyone else
> have a 69
> 442 with a 344...body tag (not VIN)?  What's your build date?
>
> ======
> I'll check my 69 4-4-2 parts car.  I could've swore it had a Cutlass
> number on the body plate though, but I will verify.  And give the build
> date.
>

=================
All right, I check my 4-4-2 and it is a Cutlass number on the body plate,
built in Lansing with a date of 03D.  So somewhere between this build date
and the date on Kerry Koger's car is when the swap happened would be my
guess.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris/

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus others

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 16:30:39 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine noise, stalling - fuel pump?

In a message dated 4/14/99 11:38:46 AM EST, rockman20@yahoo.com writes:

<< A long screwdriver with the handle still on works
 pretty well also.
  >>
so does a rubber hose.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 16:52:55 -0400
From: "Dan" <dsm137@gti.net>
Subject: Re: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass

If it were I, I would remove the inside door panel and disconnect the whole
thing. also try to push the armature up with a screw driver from the inside.
I wouldn't really worry about breaking the door locking mechanism because it
already appears to be broken and to be replaced once you get it removed. I
would get in there and push and prod, but just be careful not to bend any of
the rods in the door and disconnect the rods going to the key and push locks
as not to break them. if it doesn't come loose try a drill or something to
remove it completely.
Dan.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Darrin Johnson <xdarrinj@ti.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 1999 9:27 AM
Subject: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass


> I have tried the suggestions from the list to get my door open with no
luck.
> I have pushed, pried, lubricated, etc. everything that I can reach related
> to the latch/lock mechanism with no change.  It really feels like the lock
> mechanism will not completely disengage no matter how hard that I pry on
it
> (I am afraid of bending or breaking something).  Any additional
suggestions
> would be greatly appreciated.
>
> Darrin Johnson
> xdarrinj@ti.com
> djohnsn@ibm.net
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 16:56:21 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass

Probably a little tough removing the door panel with the door locked shut. 
I would think.

Omega Man





At 04:52 PM 4/14/99 -0400, you wrote:
>If it were I, I would remove the inside door panel and disconnect the whole
>thing. also try to push the armature up with a screw driver from the inside.
>I wouldn't really worry about breaking the door locking mechanism because it
>already appears to be broken and to be replaced once you get it removed. I
>would get in there and push and prod, but just be careful not to bend any of
>the rods in the door and disconnect the rods going to the key and push locks
>as not to break them. if it doesn't come loose try a drill or something to
>remove it completely.
>Dan.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Darrin Johnson <xdarrinj@ti.com>
>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 1999 9:27 AM
>Subject: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass
>
>
>> I have tried the suggestions from the list to get my door open with no
>luck.
>> I have pushed, pried, lubricated, etc. everything that I can reach related
>> to the latch/lock mechanism with no change.  It really feels like the lock
>> mechanism will not completely disengage no matter how hard that I pry on
>it
>> (I am afraid of bending or breaking something).  Any additional
>suggestions
>> would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> Darrin Johnson
>> xdarrinj@ti.com
>> djohnsn@ibm.net
>>
>>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 14:00:42 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass

> The key lock on the outside does not turn fully in both
> directions. The inside door lock plunger can not be raised
> completely to the unlocked position.  The door button and
> handle are both fully out/released.

Based on what you describe here and elsewhere (but in this paragraph I 
think you really nailed it), I'd say the latch release, what gets 
pulled when you open the door from either side, is not fully 
retracted. The external button and internal doorhandle may be fully 
retracted, but I think the mechanism they pull on is not.

I imagine you'll hate this but I think you should remove the other 
door panel and compare the movement of the linkage on that side. Feel 
with your fingertips what the handle release rods pull on, and how it 
retracts when released. I think the mechanism on the problem door is 
not retracting all the way.

- -- Andy



_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 14:23:25 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass

> Probably a little tough removing the door panel with the door locked 
> shut. 
> I would think.

Yeah, but from what he said earlier, he apparently already did.

As for releasing rods, there's usually some sort retainer clip to 
unsnap first. The most common ones are released by unsnapping a collar 
from around the rod and swiveling it out of the way, at which point 
the rod pulls straight out. A good flashlight helps (either by 
illuminating it or for hitting it :-)

- -- Andy

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 09:05:02 -0400
From: Mark Cornea <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: Re: shifter handle removal

Patton wrote:
> 
> List,
> 
>         how do I go about removing the handle from
> my Hurst shifter ?????   no bolts - held in with metal
> shims ?? - I think you insert some sort of tool but
> very fuzzy on this.........
> 
> Tanks
> The General

	Insert a .020 shim in the right side of the shifter base and pull like
hell. ........ you might want to soak it with WD40 first.

         ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
               Mark Cornea (Dr. Decal)  OCA# 4903
                             1970 W30 (red)

                      mailto:drdecal@wwnet.net

                    Visit http://www.drdecal.com
        ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 17:42:07 EDT
From: Biscayne2d@aol.com
Subject: Exhaust Parts needed

Ok The part im looking for is the exhaust tube with the 4 bolt flange that 
goes from the Y pipe out let to the Catilaytic converter,  My old Converter 
is completelt rusted away and i want to put an exhaust on it without the 
converter but dont know how to hook it up to the '85 4 bolt outlet flange. 
Can anyone tell me where to find what im looking for?:? Please help
Paul 79

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 17:47:31 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: KKs Build date (was Re: 69 Body Tags (was: Re: Quincy new heart)

12D is my build date which translates to 4th week December also my 442 was
fremont cali built...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Smetana <chris@abcs.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 1999 3:16 PM
Subject: Re: 69 Body Tags (was: Re: Quincy new heart)


> > well my  69 442 has the 344879 on the cowl "fisher" tag so some of them
> > had
> > the right tag
> > ________
> >
> > What's the build date on your 69?  Fisher Body definitely changed the
> > numbering
> > on the body tags sometime in 69 (since the 70s obviously have the
> > 344...body
> > tags).  I'd like to try and find out when this occurred.  Anyone else
> > have a 69
> > 442 with a 344...body tag (not VIN)?  What's your build date?
> >
> > ======
> > I'll check my 69 4-4-2 parts car.  I could've swore it had a Cutlass
> > number on the body plate though, but I will verify.  And give the build
> > date.
> >
>
> =================
> All right, I check my 4-4-2 and it is a Cutlass number on the body plate,
> built in Lansing with a date of 03D.  So somewhere between this build date
> and the date on Kerry Koger's car is when the swap happened would be my
> guess.
>
> Chris Smetana
> Terre Haute, IN
> http://www.abcs.com/chris/
>
> 1969 W-31
> 1969 4-4-2 parts car
> plus others
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 17:07:21 -0400
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: Charlotte Show

Just got back from Charlotte for the show down there.  Drove a 79 Scout
down, not a good road trip vehicle.  Dragged a shock through Virginia...

Pretty damn good show.  Not very many Oldses, but some real nice ones.
Favorite was a tri-carb 400 67 442.  Swap meet was decent sized, but nothing
good found.  Got 35 packs of cigarettes for $46 in Virginia.

So, like, I've been wondering for a while, how is it that I often see older
442's with three speed auto's?  What's the deal with that?  I even saw a two
speed one down south.  Have I been wrong all along as to what 442 stands
for?

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 3.8 Calais
Bucks County, PA
mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 17:42:51 -0400
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <TJACQUILLARD@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass

Darrin Johnson wrote:
> 
> >Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 07:05:55 PDT
> >From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
> >Subject: Re: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass
> >
> >In comparing the left door to the right one, comparing the outside
> >pushbutton, outside key lock, inside door handle and inside lock knob,
> >which of those feel "different" from one side to the other? I.e. which
> >feel like they're not working on the left side?
> 
> The inside lock knob and the outside key lock feel different from side to
> side.  On the side that is stuck, the key will not turn very far to unlock
> and the inside lock knob will only come up partway.
> 
> >Does the outside door button press in freely, the usual locked mode,
> >or does it press in against major resistance?
> 
> The outside door button presses in freely.
> 
Correct me if I am wrong, but if you have the door panel off can't you
drop out the lock cylinder. It sounds that something in the locking
mechanism is jamming, so why not take the clip off and get the lock
cylinder out of the way. Then you can narrow it down further if
necessary. 
T.J.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 14:21 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: my wheel & tire story (long)

Someone on this list asked if anyone had put 17" wheels on their 70-72 
Cutlass. I didn't, but I DID put 16" wheels on my 72 Supreme, with 
225/60/16 Falken H-rated tires on them. The new wheels and tires look 
great, they really transformed the look of my car from "elderly gents 
beater transportation" to "almost kinda beater hot-rod" and the car 
definitely grips better in the turns. I love the end result. But 
getting there turned out to be a long and painfully exasperating 
experience, despite the fact that I tried to be well informed when I 
started out....

Before I went looking for new wheels, I did a little reading to find 
out what info I needed. I measured the backspacing on my existing 
wheels (3 7/8"), measured how much clearance I had around the existing 
tire, and made sure I knew my bolt-circle (4.75"). I decided to keep 
the tire height the same during my upgrade (by going to 60-series 
tires from the original 75-series Michelins) to avoid throwing my 
speedometer calibration out of whack. I lucked out by finding an ad in 
a local paper for a set of Pontiac Trans-Am 16x8 factory alloy wheels 
for $150. I went to the guys house, used my home-made paper template 
to confirm the new wheels had a 4.75" bolt-circle, and measured the 
backspacing of one wheel, which was 4 1/4". This was 3/8" more than my 
stock wheels, but I knew from my measurements that this would be no 
problem, so I talked the guy down to $120 for all four wheels (best 
deal I've got in a long time!) and headed home. 

First snag, I took a look at the new wheels and found that they needed 
a different type of lug-nuts, ones with a big flat shoulder that seats 
on the wheel rather than the usual conical face that steel wheels use. 
I hunted all over two cities and about 7 different auto parts stores 
and even a couple of wheel & tire stores without finding the 7/8 - 20 
nuts I needed (everyone had metric nuts for Hondas and similar 
wrong-wheel drive econoboxes). Finally I gave up, found what I needed 
(hah!) in the Jegs catalog, and ordered them. Turns out that Jegs is 
about as far as possible in the US from where I live (Los Angles), so 
they told me it would take something like 10 working days for the 
parts to get to me; I groaned, but seeing no alternative, I agreed.

Okay, might as well get the tires. Hunt through all the ads, find a 
discount tire place that has what I want, call them, they don't have 
the size I want in stock, but can get them in a week. That's a week 
before the lug-nuts get here, so I go ahead. I spend one weekend 
cleaning, sanding, and re-finishing my wheels with Plasticote 
bumper-chrome (comes out looking pretty close to satin-finish 
aluminium), then I go get the tires mounted. While rolling the wheels 
and tires into my garage I suddenly notice that the backspacing on the 
wheel in my left hand looks different from the backspacing on the 
wheel in my right hand. Big sinking feeling, I measure and find I have 
two wheels with 4 1/4" backspacing, and two with 4 7/8" backspacing! 
What in the world!  Do more research and find that yes, F-bodies 
actually came from the factory with different backspacing on the front 
and rear wheels. Believe it or not. So now I have two wheels with 1" 
more backspacing than my stockers, and I'm no longer so sure they'll 
fit my car. And I just bought new tires and mounted them, too.....

I wait till the lug-nuts arrive, try them on, and find that the shank 
of these new nuts is just a little too thick to go into the holes in 
my wheels. $%&&8##, this is starting to get nasty. What the heck, I'm 
in up to my neck, I might as well go for broke. I take my tires and 
wheels in to work, one each day, and use our Brideport milling machine 
with a 11/16" drill chucked up in it to drill out all 20 holes in my 4 
wheels. Okay, time to put the wheels on. I put the thick washer on the 
lug-nut, slip one into the newly opened up hole in a wheel. Then I 
find that the lug nut shanks are also about 1mm too long - the nuts 
bottom out on the wheel-stud by hitting the brake rotor/drum without 
actually clamping the wheel down at all! 

Okay, this one should be easy, I'll run down to the store and buy some 
more hardened washers the same size as the ones that came with my 
lug-nuts, I'll just stack two washers on each nut, simple. I get my 
new 5/8" hardened washers home, then find that their outer diameter is 
just a teensy weensy bit bigger than the washers that came with the 
new lug-nuts. You guessed it, they are just big enough not to enter 
the recessed holes in the alloy wheel that lead to the actual seat for 
the lug-nuts!

By this time nothing surprises me any more. I decide to buy smaller 
washers and drill out their centres. I go back to the hardware store 
and buy 9/16" hardened washers; these are small enough to go where 
they should, but the centre hole is too small to slip over the lug-nut 
shank, so I take them in to work. After a few false starts I make a 
simple jig to hold one washer at a time in the good ol' Bridgeport, 
and get the centre holes all drilled out to 11/16"; the drill bit 
wears out halfway through (those hardened washers really were 
hardened!), so I re-grind it on the grinding wheel, and finally get 
about 25 washers drilled out (a few spares just in case).

I think about the wheels backspacing situation for a while, there's 
more clearance on the inboard side of the front tires than the back, 
and the 8" wide deep-backspacing 4 7/8" wheels actually place the 
centreline of the tire in the same place as the old 6" wheel with 3 
7/8" backspacing, which is good for maintaing the steering scrub 
radius, if only they will actually fit on the car and not hit 
anything, so I decide to put the deep-backspacing wheels on the front 
and the other ones on the back.

Yes, the story ends happily, this finally did it. I used one of my 
drilled-out washers and one of the Jegs-supplied washers on each 
lug-nut, and all the wheels went on okay. There is a very reasonable 
amount of inboard clearance( maybe 1" - 3/4" for the back wheels 
(225/60/16 tires on 8" wide rims with 4 1/4" backspacing), and lots of 
clearance on the outboard side of the tires. At the front, with the 
same size tires on the same 8" wide rims with 4 7/8" backspacing the 
inboard clearance is tight, the tire sidewall gets to within maybe 
3/8" of the brake-hoses, but nothing hits. Once again there's lots of 
room on the outside for more tire width.

Guess I'll never believe in "easy bolt-on's" again! It took me about 
three weeks and much aggravation to get those wheels and tires on.

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 17:02:51 -0500
From: "Michael Kantowski" <mkantowski@mcguireng.com>
Subject: RE: Charlotte Show

>Have I been wrong all along as to what 442 stands
>for?
>
>Ray Costanzo
>87 409 Cutlass
>84 3.8 Calais

Uh oh....

- -Mike kantowski

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 17:12:28 -0500
From: "Stephan" <zappa@goodthing.net>
Subject: new Edelbrock heads

Has anyone got a set of the new heads for the 455? I am thinking about
getting some, but want some opinions about them before I spend that much
money.

Stephan
70 Cutlass
zappa@goodthing.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 16:12:50 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Charlotte Show

From the FAQ:

Definition of 4-4-2 from the Oldsmobile Factory Literature: 
     1964 (Original meaning) 
     4: Four Barrel Carburetion 
     4: Four On the Floor 
     2: Dual Exhausts 

     1965 (First year of automatic transmission option on 442) 
     4: 400 Cubic Inch Displacement 
     4: Four Barrel Carburetion 
     2: Dual Exhausts 

     1985 to 1987 (Last of RWD 442s) 
     4: Four speed automatic 
     4: Four barrel carburetor 
     2: Dual exhaust 

     1990 and 1991 (FWD 442) 
     4: Four cylinders 
     4: Four valves 
     2: Two camshafts 

Therefore 1964 would be the only year that an automatic is not correct.  From
65 to 70 whenever automatics where much more common.

> Got 35 packs of cigarettes for $46 in Virginia.

So people who see smoke billowing from your car should not assume it's an oil
eater or on fire? :')
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 18:27:23 -0400
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Jetaway to TH350

> I have 69 that was a Jetaway 2 speed and it is now
> a TH350 .My console is still  set up for 2 speed .
> What is Dremel and wil it help with my situation?

A Dremel is a small, high speed electric grinder, with many types of
attachments, including cutting wheels, polishing drums etc.
I used the grinder to grind back the stop that the pin on your shifter
bottoms out on. The stop prevents you from manually shifting into 1st gear.
A file will also work.
You also have to move your console back about 1/2" by drilling new mounting
holes in the bracket on the floor that the console bolts up to.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie, Melbourne, FL
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/~mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 18:45:58 -0400
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: Gauge Package (Voltmeter)

Mine never reads above 13--Never.  I would guess that there is a
possibility of it being off a little, but no more than a volt or so.  It
is strange that it reads around 10 with the engine off, as mine reads
even lower.  Never seemed to affect the battery by keeping it there for
a while, so I just drive it.  You may try cleaning the contacts in the
back of the gauge, and maybe even soldering them.  It's a pretty easy
job if you don't mind ripping your dash apart.
Brian

jhurd wrote:
> 
>         I have a 1987 Olds Cutlass Salon and the Volt gauge always reads low
> (around 10 volts with key on, engine off, and around 12 volts witht the car
> running).  The battery was load tested and checked out ok.  I just replaced
> the alternator (because of a bad rectifier) but the gauge still reads low.
> Is this common for these gauges to be inaccurate, or could I have a problem
> somewhere else?  TIA
> 
> Jim H.
> '87 Salon

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 18:52:03 -0400
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: attn. trans guys

Hi all,

When coming to a stop from any speed that involves at least second gear,
I hear a click coupled with a small lurch as my trans shifts down to
first.  I have been told that there is a  pretty easy fix for this, as
it is some spring or something that wears out causing it to do this. 
Anybody got any idea what I am talking about?  I hope so because i sure
don't
Brian.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 18:10:00 -0500
From: Dan Williams <442much@home.com>
Subject: Re: 68 air cleaner color???

Don't forget, you can get this color pre-mixed in a spray can from some
of the Olds suppliers such as Super Cars and Fusicks.

- -Dan

> >
> >I would need precise info on the color of a 68 4bbl 350 air cleaner
> on a
> >cutlass-s.
> >
> >Some people have told me that it should be semi gloss black but the
> one I
> >have off a 68 c/s seems to be still the original color which is red!
> Also
> >my 68 olds brochure shows a 350 with a red air cleaner element!
> >
> >Anybody out there that can give me a 100% answer?
> >
> >Regards, George
> >
> >
> >--------------------------------------------------------------
> >'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
> >http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
> >--------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> >
> >
> 
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

- -- 
Dan Williams                            442Much@home.com
Marion, IA                                68 442 Convertible

				   (+)------------------------------------(+)
        |  http://www.442.com/williams68.html  | 
       (+)------------------------------------(+)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 19:47:06 EDT
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Attn B Sanders

Hey B. Sanders,
 Give me your address so I can send you the 5 bucks for the HHO poster,
 Bernie

Thanks Again !!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 19:53:25 -0400
From: "Dan" <dsm137@gti.net>
Subject: Re: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass

not always depends on the door and the fit.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 1999 4:56 PM
Subject: Re: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass


> Probably a little tough removing the door panel with the door locked shut.
> I would think.
>
> Omega Man
>
>
>
>
>
> At 04:52 PM 4/14/99 -0400, you wrote:
> >If it were I, I would remove the inside door panel and disconnect the
whole
> >thing. also try to push the armature up with a screw driver from the
inside.
> >I wouldn't really worry about breaking the door locking mechanism because
it
> >already appears to be broken and to be replaced once you get it removed.
I
> >would get in there and push and prod, but just be careful not to bend any
of
> >the rods in the door and disconnect the rods going to the key and push
locks
> >as not to break them. if it doesn't come loose try a drill or something
to
> >remove it completely.
> >Dan.
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: Darrin Johnson <xdarrinj@ti.com>
> >To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> >Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 1999 9:27 AM
> >Subject: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass
> >
> >
> >> I have tried the suggestions from the list to get my door open with no
> >luck.
> >> I have pushed, pried, lubricated, etc. everything that I can reach
related
> >> to the latch/lock mechanism with no change.  It really feels like the
lock
> >> mechanism will not completely disengage no matter how hard that I pry
on
> >it
> >> (I am afraid of bending or breaking something).  Any additional
> >suggestions
> >> would be greatly appreciated.
> >>
> >> Darrin Johnson
> >> xdarrinj@ti.com
> >> djohnsn@ibm.net
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 19:52:10 -0400
From: "Kelly McCuller" <kmcculler@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Rear-End swap

50 / hour - sorry!

- -----Original Message-----
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, April 14, 1999 8:54 AM
Subject: Re: Rear-End swap


>50 bucks for 3 hours of labor? Damn! Shops around here
>charge anywhere from 40-60 bucks an hour for labor!!!!
>
>--- Kelly McCuller <kmcculler@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
>> Is the new rear an exact copy and you're swapping
>> the whole thing, brakes
>> and all? Shouldn't be more than a couple or 3 hours
>> labor, which is about
>> $50 or so in Fla. If you're pulling pinion and
>> carrier and such from one and
>> moving it to the other and putting in new bearings
>> and seals, that could
>> easily be $350 - 400.
>> 
>> You sure the yard rear is good?
>> 
>> - Kelly
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Michael Kantowski <mkantowski@mcguireng.com>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>> Date: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 5:18 PM
>> Subject: Rear-End swap
>> 
>> 
>> >Hi List,
>> >
>> >I have a pretty general question...
>> >
>> >I have a '77 Cutlass with the 350 and I believe the
>> rear-end is going.  I
>> >want to have a good one on the car so I can drive
>> it from Chicago to L.A.
>> >soon.  I have a rear from a yard that is sitting in
>> my back yard.
>> >
>> >Question:  What is a reasonable price range I'd
>> expect to pay a shop to
>> >perform the swap?  Also, can anyone recommend a
>> shop in the Chicago area to
>> >                do the work?
>> >
>> >P.S.  If everything goes well, I'll be driving out
>> to L.A. in about 3
>> weeks.
>> >I have located a new body for my engine.  I'll try
>> to sell parts from the
>> >current
>> >         car.
>> >
>> >If anyone is in need of parts and lives in the L.A.
>> area, email me and I
>> can
>> >get back to you and let you know the status of my
>> move.  These parts will
>> be
>> >cheap.  The parts I can offer are:
>> >
>> >            FENDERS (STRAIGHT, MINOR RUST STARTING
>> ON THE CORNERS BY THE
>> >DOORS)
>> >            HOOD (FINE SHAPE, NO RUST)
>> >            FRONT BUMPER (OK CONDITION, NEEDS SOME
>> TOUCH-UP)
>> >            SOME INTERIOR (ASK IF YOU'RE
>> INTERESTED...DASH IS NOT TOO HOT)
>> >
>> >Thanks list,
>> >
>> >Mike Kantowski
>> >
>> >
>> 
>> 
>
>===
>Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
>rockman20@yahoo.com
>1986 Honda Accord DX
>1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
>1981 John Deer Snowmobile
>197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
>1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
>_________________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 17:03:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: "R.Strachan" <creature48212@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Jetaway to TH350

Thanks for the info from everybody.I thought i only
had to cut the metal back to get the shifter into
first gear,but now i know better. Thank you very much
         
          Rick
          69 Cutlass 'S'
   

- --- Mick Gillespie <mgillespie@sprynet.com> wrote:
> > I have 69 that was a Jetaway 2 speed and it is now
> > a TH350 .My console is still  set up for 2 speed .
> > What is Dremel and wil it help with my situation?
> 
> A Dremel is a small, high speed electric grinder,
> with many types of
> attachments, including cutting wheels, polishing
> drums etc.
> I used the grinder to grind back the stop that the
> pin on your shifter
> bottoms out on. The stop prevents you from manually
> shifting into 1st gear.
> A file will also work.
> You also have to move your console back about 1/2"
> by drilling new mounting
> holes in the bracket on the floor that the console
> bolts up to.
> ==============================================
> Mick Gillespie, Melbourne, FL
> 69 Cutlass Conv.
> 80 Toronado Brougham
> mgillespie@sprynet.com
> http://home.sprynet.com/~mgillespie/oldspage.htm
> ==============================================
> 
> 

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 19:26:19 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: fast-ratio steering boxes from F-bodies, again...

>> Mike,
>> A point of clarification. If you were to switch gear boxes from a 78-9TA
you
>> would have to use your old pittman arm, not the one off the TA. It won't
work.
>> Dennis
>
> I've noticed everybody says the longer TA pitman arm won't work, haven't
noticed
>anyone saying why. The TA pitman arm is 1" longer as is the idler arm, the
center
>link is esentially the same length although larger in diameter. The only
potential
>problem I can see (with out actually installing it) is that the center link
could
>bind with the adjustable side links when the wheels were turned all the way
one
>way or the other.(thats using all the steering pieces from the TA) Is that
the
>problem or have I missed something?
>Terry
>

OK, something got lost in the translation.  What I was trying to say
in my earlier post is that the longer T/A pittman and idler arms would
push the center link into the crossmember.  As it sits now on my 68,
You have about 1/2" of clearance between the center link and the
center of the crossmember.  Moving it back 1" with the longer arms
would be physically impossible.  Of course now, after reading the
info on the website that was posted, it is very easy to eliminate the
stops by replacing the end cap.  This is something I may have to
try in the future.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 19:44:17 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Electrical...

Is this statement correct? If you put on a 63amp alternator then you ned a
voltage regulator that is designed for 63 amps. Having an alternator that
puts out 63amps with a external voltage regulator that is desinged for 55
amps can cause problems.

This is on a 72 442. I bought a 63 amps alternator and then got an external
voltage regulator from Borg/Worner that is for 63amps. Is this OK and
correct?



Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 19:48:23 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: steering box - good news for me!

>  I bought a steering box at a local salvage yard on Monday for $35. 
>Yesterday, about 2 hours before I was going to swap it in, I talked to
>a guy at work.  He asked me if I tried the adjustment screw. 
>Adjustment screw?  Yes, there is an adjustment screw!  I adjusted the
>thing, and it works PERFECT now!  That saves a couple hours work for
>me.  Now I have an extra box, so I'm going to clean it up, toss it on
>my shelf, and have it as a spare.  Life is good.
>
>Stefan
>1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
>70Cutlass@Beer.com


Yes, that is high on the list of "Little known but highly valuable
old car tricks" but it can lead to problems down the road.  If
tightened up too far it will cause increased wear and the box
will loosen back up fairly quickly.  All in all though it gives a 
little more life to an old car so you worry about all those other
parts that like to go out in groups.  Seems like everytime I 
fix one thing 3 other things quit but if I leave everything alone
it goes forever.  Maybe it's just me.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 21:07:10 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: Gauge Package (Voltmeter)

In my 83 Hurst Olds it never reads above 14 ....I would guess these are not 
the best gages.....
 <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/">HOT ROD HARRY'S OLDSMOBILES</A> 
Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 18:18:32 -0700
From: Tom Lentz <tlentz@home.com>
Subject: E-mail address change

Got a new ISP (cable modem!) and my e-mail address is changing

New address is:

tlentz@home.com

New home page at:

http://members.home.net/tlentz

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 20:35:29 -0500
From: "Stephan" <zappa@goodthing.net>
Subject: new heads

Actually I was just planning on reusing the edelbrock performer that I have
and a set of hedman headers already in the car. I am always open to
suggestions for the best combo of course.
  I have not asked about anyone having them in stock yet as I don't have the
money saved up for them at this time. By the time I do have the money I
expect them to be in stock everywhere though.

Stephan
70 Cutlass
ICQ# 498105

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 21:39:07 -0400
From: "Jason Labay" <jlabay@tdin.com>
Subject: points to HEI, how?

The Hi Comp 425 I am pulling out of a 66 Delta 88 for my 72 Supreme is a
points system, obviously :-) Whats involved in converting this to HEI? Any
particular year and make of HEI unit would be better? I imagine it has to be
fairly wasy as I hear alot of people do it, but I never paid attention to
how it was done.  Thanks

Jason Labay

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 21:46:10 -0400
From: "Gary Couse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: new heads

OK. From what I understand there is some problems running headers with them.
Something about flange warppage. I'm told Headers by Ed makes a header
flange for the Edel's that is extra thick and ported properly for them.
"Cough" at something like $235 just for the flanges and starter tubes. You
still need to build the remainder of the headers. Ouch. When I finally get
them you'll probably see me post it. Give me a yell then and ask how it's
working out. I'll give you the strait poop as it happens. Should be in about
4 weeks or so. That is if they finally come into stock.  Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com
techsupport@salemcounty.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Stephan
> Sent: Wednesday, April 14, 1999 9:35 PM
> To: Mailing List
> Subject: new heads
>
>
> Actually I was just planning on reusing the edelbrock performer
> that I have
> and a set of hedman headers already in the car. I am always open to
> suggestions for the best combo of course.
>   I have not asked about anyone having them in stock yet as I
> don't have the
> money saved up for them at this time. By the time I do have the money I
> expect them to be in stock everywhere though.
>
> Stephan
> 70 Cutlass
> ICQ# 498105
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 21:47:46 EDT
From: RPTW32@aol.com
Subject: Re: Ring Gapping

In a message dated 4/14/99 2:37:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time, pbrill1@uic.edu 
writes:

<< Also, given the cost of a ring gapper and the premium $
 for file fits, are they worth it for my application?  >>

let it be known that you can use rings for a 428 CJ FORD which will be 
equivalent for  
file fit for Olds 425/455 bore. I used these on my 455 (.030) and the rings 
were sized
being equivalent of a .035 file fit ring. Big time difference in price for 
standard or .030 ring set vs. ordering a custom "file fit" set which is .005 
over for standard bore or .035 over for .030 bore.
Might want to check you local auto parts source for Speed Pro/FM rings.

Rgds,
R.Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 21:53:50 -0400
From: "Gary Couse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Sorry.

Oops, Sorry. Last post meant private. 

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com
techsupport@salemcounty.com 

Custom Conversion Prototype: 
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 21:59:59 EDT
From: Harrell17@aol.com
Subject: Mounting pads

I am in desperate need of a set of mounting pads that bolt to the frame that 
the motor mounts sit on, to fit a 72 Cutlass with a 455. It had a 350 in it 
and the old pads don't work. Any info on where to find these would be greatly 
appreciated, Thanks. Jim  Kansas City

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 22:12:44 -0400
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Florida Sabbatical

> Hey kist!
> Am disappearing from the list for a few weeks to reappear in Daytona
> Beach. Anyone in that area want to perhaps quaff a flagon or two?
>
> Ron Forsee
>
> 65 442-Meister

Hey Meister,
I'm a little over an hour south, in Melbourne. Give me a call. (407)
255-2028. Not next week though, I'll be in Switzerland.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie, Melbourne, FL
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/~mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 22:11:11 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Alternator question

On my 83 Hurst Olds...where the connection goes in the alternator with the 
red wire and the brown wire....the alternator has a #1 with and R next to it 
and a #2...what wire goes to what connection on the alternator?
Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 22:27:39 EDT
From: R4C442@aol.com
Subject: unsubscribe oldsmobile

 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 23:07:14 -0400
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: 42 Dragway!

Hey everyone!
    It was such a nice day here in South/East Ohio that I had to take my
'69 rag top for her maiden voyage down the strip (at least in my
hands).  Well just to bring everybody up to par I was doing this to get
a base line for the car's performance BEFORE I start making changes.
The as it sits right now:  350 - 310 hp (timing retarded slightly to run
87 octane), 2 speed Jetaway, 2.73 rear out of a Chevelle, 235/60/15
Kelly Chargers and 2.25 duals with 2 chamber flow masters.
Wellll I learned quite a bit about the car tonight - I made seven passes
- - the first being the worst (but coolest looking) I didn't do a burnout
because typically the Kelly's only lay about 2' of rubber on the street
and I was assuming there would be better traction at the strip - well I
must of picked up some water or something. Result - right rear started
to spin right off the lights and I didn't let out of it (sounded really
cool and looked it in the rear view) - I spun for approximately 400
feet!  Netted a whopping 18.637 @ 80.76 mph.  After that I did a short
burn out before each run just to clean up the tires resulting in a best
of 16.709 @ 82.87.
I was slightly disappointed (figured it should at least get into the
15's) but I chalked it up to the Jetaway trans (takes about .5 seconds
to shift!), the 2.73's, and having less timing than what the 350 likes.
Being that it was a spur of the moment type thing i didn't get a chance
to grab the tools/timing light - so I'm sure during the next outing I'll
be able to drastically improve this!  (15's hear I come! - now all I
need is a true first gear....)

Sorry for the length of this - but I just wanted to share the
evening.... :-)
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a glide... :-(
(hopefully a 2004R and 3.73 - 4.11's by the end of the summer...)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 23:11:23 EDT
From: DrkSole96@aol.com
Subject: Re: G-tech

In a message dated 4/14/99 6:41:51 AM Central Daylight Time, 
ggilpin@wrallp.com writes:

<< I think I saw Horsepower TV peddling those. If I may ask, How much did it
 cost and where can you get one? 
 
 Omega Man
 '74 Omega S 455
  >>
$124 plus shipping from JC Whitney. 

Donovan Moser
73 Cutlass Supreme
drksole96@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 23:43:26 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: 42 Dragway!

I had an all original 67 cutlass 330 2barrel , jetaway tran , dual exhaust, 
2.78 gears with L60 15s ,which probably made the gearing 2.30 somethings and 
the car turned a 15.92...so yes your car should do alot better, I know you 
can do it..
Hot Rod Harry <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/">HOT ROD HARRY'S 
OLDSMOBILES
</A> 

------------------------------

Date: 14 Apr 99 20:48:16 PDT
From: Randy Hermsen <76Cutlass@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: [Re: LOL350 man gets educated425style]]

KarlAunan@aol.com wrote:
In a message dated 99-04-14 00:10:47 EDT, you write:

<< how come this motor got a 2 barrel if I score the car for the motor where 
and how much $$ is a 4barrel intake manifold.havent got the car yet just gave 
the dude my number the other day .hope he calls soon  lolo >>

The 2v intake on the 425 is probably fairly common for 1965-1967 engines.
SOM for example.

In 1965, for the Dynamic 88 model, the "Delta" motor (or was it "98" motor) 
was a 4v carb (4GC) had for extra $$$, and the "Starfire" engine had the same 
4GC, but had higher compression (10.5:1 instead of 10.25:1) for a total of 
about 370hp.

With the air shroud off, you can hear the 425 wheeze through the 2v carb.

To go to a Quadrajet, go to a Ye Olde Junke Yarde and yank the 4v intake from 
any BB Oldsmobile 1966-1976. Mind that some years have divorced choke, with 
the others having provision for a choke heat stove.

All BB intakes interchange.
You could even use a W-30 intake, if you can afford them.
Or use the Edelbrock Performer, an adapter may be needed.

Edelbrock = $200+

Karl paid $26 for an intake from a 1976 Delta from a Yarde.

The Authentic 1965 4v intake is a one year only item and is a squarebore 
intake (does not fit Holley w/o using an adapter) for the 4GC carburetor.

That is, except for Mr. Rench's 1965 car.

BTW: 1966-67 are not that desireable unless fuel inlet has been modified.
Original diaphragm would fail, resulting in fire.
Found the 1973 Caddy Q-Jet in a 1966 "98".
Though it was original, very disappointed.

SOM

&KA
thanxs for the info Karl 370 h.p. sounds like my 350 couldnt hold up to that
will try to get the car 65 dynamic 88.Then will go on hunt for aluminum 4
barrel intake.Anyone on the list know how 425will fit in 76 cutlass.yes Ive
become seriously oldsmoholic,some of you say keep original motor with car .425
sounds better then my r block!
                                 randy
                                  76 cutlass
                                    really itchin to install w-z ex. mans.

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------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1906
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