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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1971


oldsmobile-digest        Friday, May 21 1999        Volume 01 : Number 1971



Re: To wax or not to wax?
Diversity  (was: car acronyms)
Re: Oldsmobile car watch
How much of a bear is adding A/C?
Re: Rally
1970 Rallye 350, W-31
Re: How much of a bear is adding A/C?
Oil Pressure....
Re: How much of a bear is adding A/C?
Re: 600 miles and holding
Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!
Re: UNBOUNCE: 1998 Silhouette plastic front end vibration
window cleaner
Re: 600 miles and done
RE: difference in carbs thanks
Phenomenal Phind
Pheno-Phind, II
parts in junkyard
Re: How much of a bear is adding A/C?
Re: Diversity  (was: car acronyms)
Re: To wax or not to wax?
Re: To wax or not to wax?
Re: Ball Joint Time? Opinons, pls
Need carb rebuild hints
Re: How much of a bear is adding A/C?
Weather Formula (fwd)
Re: To wax or not to wax?
Re: aluminum vs Fe
Re: Ball Joint Time? Opinons, pls
350 rocket defined
Re: How much of a bear is adding A/C?
Re: Going to the Track first time, pointers needed
WE NEED AN OLDS BIG BODY CLUB
RE: WE NEED AN OLDS BIG BODY CLUB
Re: WE NEED AN OLDS BIG BODY CLUB
Brake question
RE: WE NEED AN OLDS BIG BODY CLUB
Was: How much of a bear is adding A/C? re: Vintage Air
Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!
Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!
Re: Phenomenal Phind
Re: emission decal
Re: WE NEED AN OLDS BIG BODY CLUB
Re: Ball Joint Time? Opinons, pls

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 21:33:25 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: To wax or not to wax?

In a message dated 5/20/99 5:50:52 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
lbiggs@intertek.net writes:

<< Had a 66 Vette, Concours car. Always used Maguires(spelling) on it, the
 liquid cleaner, and then the paste wax in a can. The guys with the
 expensive cars told me to use it. I loved it and still use it. It's carnuba
 wax(spelling again). Supposed to be the best. ??? >>

It's Meguiar's Lou.  Very close.  I've got a catalog in the house.  I've used 
their Gold Class Clear Coat Prep and Swirl Reducer on my 96 Blazer then wax, 
it gave the truck a nice smooth finish and it looked really good.

I have the #7 Show Car Glaze and # 26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax for my 442 but have 
not had time to use them yet.  I do use the #34 Final Inspection on it.  
Takes the dust and bugs off and leaves a smooth finish.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 21:44:39 -0400
From: Uncle Pete <pteubel@mediaone.net>
Subject: Diversity  (was: car acronyms)

At 08:25 PM 5/20/99 -0400, you wrote:
>> Okay, I've stood by and watched the Mopars get insulted for two days,
>> enoughs enough! I love my Olds, but I have to stand up for the honour
>> of all Mopars. Here's one more for Dodge:
>>
>>     Defeats Oldsmobiles Daily with Great Ease

>I got your back,  John!!  Here's another:
>
>MOPAR:
>Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly.

HAHAHAHA!!!  Its good to see friendly rivalry here.  We all have various
cars and most of us are loyal to more than one brand.  Glad to see such
diversity!  No matter WHAT brand gets slammed, I am always a victim <grin>.


- - Uncle Pete
'51 98
'63 Monterey
'66 Coronet 440
'73 Imperial(ist)
'73 Imperial(ist) II
'81 98
'82 98

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 18:55:53 -0700
From: Joe Varley <varleyequip@access1.net>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile car watch

The watch you mentioned was an option on all 1952 Oldsmobiles. Don't think
it was optional on any other year. They are often for sale in JWO,
Hemmings, etc. You need the matching horn ring to go with the watch to
mount it on the wheel. When mounted, it sits below the center horn button,
at "6:00". It is a self winding watch, wound when you turned the steering
wheel. Thanks.

Joe Varley
"Rocket 88 Man"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 18:59:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Livingston <john@johnlivingston.com>
Subject: How much of a bear is adding A/C?

Dear Lucky Olds Owners,

I've been dragging my poor family up hill and down dale the last four
months looking at 68-72 Cutlass & 442 converts. I'm looking for something
around $10K or less, but seem to find lots of pretty rough "projects" that
often have all the power options I'd like, or I find non-A/C, optionless
cars that otherwise are very nice.

My question is, is it really more trouble than it's worth to try to
retrofit A/C to a non-A/C car? Seems like changing most anything else, be
it disk brakes, engines, trannies, etc., is not that big a deal.
Unfortunately, it's hot and humid enough in southeastern Virginia that
having A/C can really be a blessing, particularly for us overweight old
farts who, by local ordinance, must remain fully clothed at all times.

Should I happen to fall in love with a non A/C car and want to add A/C
later, would you try to go factory, or go with an aftermarket package, like
Vintage Air's? (I'm looking for a less-than-perfect driver that shouldn't
make Ransom Eli roll over if modified.) I've even thought of buying a
rusted-out sedan with A/C just to get all the necessary bits, but I haven't
had the nerve to confess these unholy thoughts to my sainted wife.

Thanks in advance for your comments.

John Livingston
Oldless in Newport News, VA

PS Wasn't there a list member recently who wanted to take the air out of
his Cutlass? I wonder if he can cook.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 22:06:05 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Rally

what year?  Was the Rallye 350 only made in 70?  I have some black and white
photos I can scan in.  I have a few fact sheets on the Ralley 350 as well.
Will that do?
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Edward Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
To: Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 9:17 PM
Subject: Rally


> I need a picture of a Rally 350 in original trim and graphics, you know
with
> the color matching bumpers and all. Can anyone help?
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 19:04:33 -0700
From: Joe Varley <varleyequip@access1.net>
Subject: 1970 Rallye 350, W-31

Have a 70 Rallye 350, F85 trim, 4 speed, with nearly every W-31 item.
Traced the car back to 3 months old and it was this way.   Has 53,000
miles, very nice.  Car was new in Pocatello, Idaho.  Original had it
reposessed.  Does anybody out there remember this car?  I would like to
know complete history for documentation.

Thanks,

Joe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 19:04:55 -0700
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: How much of a bear is adding A/C?

John Livingston wrote:

> My question is, is it really more trouble than it's worth to try to
> retrofit A/C to a non-A/C car?

When you retrofit from a non-A/C to an A/C car you will most likely
have to replace the radiator.  A/C cars like the 4-row type.

> later, would you try to go factory, or go with an aftermarket package, like
> Vintage Air's? (I'm looking for a less-than-perfect driver that shouldn't

What is Vintage Air?

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 21:12:09 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Oil Pressure....

My friend has a 455 in his 70 and it is the same basic setup as my 72 which
has the 455. What is kind of weird is that at idle(700-800RPM) in his car
the oil pressure reads 25 pounds hot. WHen he drives it reads 50-55 pounds
hot.

In my car the oil pressure reads 20-25 pounds hot (600-800RPM). When
cruising it reads 60-65 pounds hot. If I put the car in park while at
idle(goes to 800-900RPM) the oil pressure reads 25pounds. If I put it back
in drive it reads about 20+pounds at idle. 

My question is why does my motor make more oil pressure than his while
driving? Why does his motor make more oil pressure at idle than mine?

 What Mondello states is that it is OK to have 20-25 pounds at idle because
there is no load on the motor. 


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 22:15:51 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: How much of a bear is adding A/C?

It would be alot of work to add A/C to a non-equipped car.  The dash,
firewall,  and even the rear gears can be different.   It would not be so
bad to add the vintage air tho.(so I am told)
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
- ----- Original Message -----
From: John Livingston <john@johnlivingston.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 9:59 PM
Subject: How much of a bear is adding A/C?


> Dear Lucky Olds Owners,
>
> I've been dragging my poor family up hill and down dale the last four
> months looking at 68-72 Cutlass & 442 converts. I'm looking for something
> around $10K or less, but seem to find lots of pretty rough "projects" that
> often have all the power options I'd like, or I find non-A/C, optionless
> cars that otherwise are very nice.
>
> My question is, is it really more trouble than it's worth to try to
> retrofit A/C to a non-A/C car? Seems like changing most anything else, be
> it disk brakes, engines, trannies, etc., is not that big a deal.
> Unfortunately, it's hot and humid enough in southeastern Virginia that
> having A/C can really be a blessing, particularly for us overweight old
> farts who, by local ordinance, must remain fully clothed at all times.
>
> Should I happen to fall in love with a non A/C car and want to add A/C
> later, would you try to go factory, or go with an aftermarket package,
like
> Vintage Air's? (I'm looking for a less-than-perfect driver that shouldn't
> make Ransom Eli roll over if modified.) I've even thought of buying a
> rusted-out sedan with A/C just to get all the necessary bits, but I
haven't
> had the nerve to confess these unholy thoughts to my sainted wife.
>
> Thanks in advance for your comments.
>
> John Livingston
> Oldless in Newport News, VA
>
> PS Wasn't there a list member recently who wanted to take the air out of
> his Cutlass? I wonder if he can cook.
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 21:17:14 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 600 miles and holding

Is there any noises coming from the motor? What type of oil where you
using? Was the motor rebuilt with new main and rod bearings? New oil pump? 
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Corey Putnam <hurst455@webtv.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 600 miles and holding
> Date: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 9:33 PM
> 
>    I went over the 600 mile mark today on the new engine and was looking
> forward to the OCC meet on Saturday but I was on my way to the local
> drive-in for a show and lost my oil pressure. The motor used to run 60
> lbs cold and about 45 hot, when I pulled into the show I was running
> about 8 lbs in gear and around 18 at 45 MPH.
>    I`ll start the prosess of droping the pan in the morning. Will there
> be an obvious sign that its the oil pump?(who knows, maybe the pump
> bolts starting backing out) How will I know for sure that I didn`t spin
> a main bearing without droping any caps? I`d like to try to avoid
> pulling main caps if at all posible.
>   I`m going to try and have it back on the road by Friday evening and
> still make it to Milwaukee Saturday morning.
> 
> Corey Putnam
> 75 H/O W-30(my way)
> 87 Regal w/Olds 455(Mama`s ride)
> H/OCA #0915A
> OCC #0208
> OCA #031264
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 21:27:16 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!

I have about 500 miles on my 455. It has Childs & ALberts zero gap rings in
it. I have used 20W-50 Castrol GTX since it was new. Would i be OK to go to
synthetic or should I play it safe and put another 500 miles on the motor
with conventional oil to make sure the rings have seated?


Pettrix@prodigy.net
> 
> I hear you Lou.  With the soft bearing material that Horstman rod
bearings are
> made of, I find no wear while others using the same parts and changing
regular
> oil every round do get significant wear.  I also have a friend who works
for
> Pac West racing.  They run Mobil 1 in the CART/Indy engines and he claims
the
> insides look like new after 500 miles.  He is the one that got me started
on
> synthetic.  I also use Mobil 1 in my van that I pull the trailer with. 
When I
> bought it with 51 K on it, the dealer had fresh regular 10W-30 in it. 
After
> towing 25 miles and then some stop and go in town I noticed I had about
15 psi
> at idle in gear.  I changed to the synthetic and the next week end I
checked
> the pressure at the same stop light, I had about 25 psi at idle.  I felt
that
> was a significant difference and a good indicator of how the oil was
holding
> up.
> 
> Dave Wyatt
> 70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 22:24:37 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: 1998 Silhouette plastic front end vibration

In a message dated 5/20/99 8:13:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
ab348@chebucto.ns.ca writes:

<< I am planning a long trip here in 2 weeks and don't want to drive like
 grand-ma.  >>

That's not a bad thing if grandma is the Little Old Lady From Pasadena.  Go 
Granny Go.  

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 22:20:41 -0400
From: "Mike McLeod" <mikemcleod@msn.com>
Subject: window cleaner

After reading all of the wax comments, it made me think of cleaning car
windows. What can I use to clean the containment's off of glass. I use to
have a good cleaner, bought it years ago. Don't remember the name of it.
Someone broke into my garage and it was one of the things they stole among
other things. But I sure miss a good glass cleaner.

Michael McLeod

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 21:33:39 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 600 miles and done

Did you check the clearances before you put it together?
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Corey Putnam <hurst455@webtv.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 600 miles and done
> Date: Thursday, May 20, 1999 7:56 PM
> 
>     I tried new oil filter(just in case) same pressure, tried another
> guage(that I knew was good) same pressure. 
>  Pulled the oil pan about three hours ago and found two inch and a half
> long pieces of bearing material. My engine is done.
>    I`m not a quitter, I`m out of money. I put over 10 grand in this
> project and can`t scrape anymore. I`ll find out in the morning if the
> shop that built it will stand behind their work. There was no warranty
> since mine was a "custom" order. Live and learn.  
> 
> Corey Putnam
> 75 H/O W-30(my way)
> 87 Regal w/Olds 455(Mama`s ride)
> H/OCA #0915A
> OCC #0208
> OCA #031264
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 22:33:35 -0400
From: "Mike McLeod" <mikemcleod@msn.com>
Subject: RE: difference in carbs thanks

Karl,
	I checked the carb number earlier today. I don't have the number in 
front
of me, but it was out of a 70 442 AT w/air. My W-30 is AT w/air. I will ask
the guy if he has worked on a Q-jet with no primary metering rods. I have
not met him yet, he is a mechanic my friend knows. I hope to meet him
tomorrow and talk to him about it. Thanks

Mike
> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of retrorockets
> Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 6:04 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: difference in carbs thanks
>
>
> Mike,
> Chances of you finding a carb guy who has played with a Q-jet
> with no primary
> metering rods is slim.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 22:48:32 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Phenomenal Phind

Saw an ad in the local small town paper today... yard sale, Oldsmobile p
arts. Stopped by on the way home to investigate. What an understatement.
40x60 pole barn and a trailer  with all sorts of items. Guy used to work
at Olds I guess, boxes full of NOS items in the package. NOS 1/4 panels
on the wall. Dealer displays. Aerotech and similar go-karts with gas
motors. 59? 98 2-door with J-2 tri-carb setup. '68 Cutlass with FACTORY
EXPERIMENTAL 455, Mondello modified K heads, 518 CID. On the stand, a
600hp 350 motor. Various & sundry blocks sitting here & there. Outside,
a real '68 H/O, currently sporting incorrect motor. Z-Z paint code. This
man even has rigged up an ELEVATOR out of a garage door opener mechanism
to lift parts upstairs in the barn. Oh, and outside... is a mid 80Õs??
Toronado, modified with ***2 rear axles*** and an ElCamino bed. [btw,
recently saw a Hot Wheels similar car, with wrecker boom fitted to it.]
In the barn, also, a Vista of '72 or so getting a 3" top chop. Outside,
a VERY pretty rustless, needs paint, etc. 71-2 Cutlass 2-door project
car, he said $1500 would take it. WELL worth that in rust repair savings
alone. In the pole barn also, boxes and boxes of Ô91 and '96 Literature,
new. I was on the way home... could not even START to assess all that
the man has there.

Turns out I knew the man, never got around to visiting him at this
location. He used to live on the street where I grew up. That's where/
when he made that ultra-shorty sparkly green & black doorless '57?
that folks marveled at during the centennial meet.

I would like to get photos of the 3-axle Toronado-Camino, the
experimental block, and the green chopped car, but technology is
limited here. Would anyone care to post these on a web page?

If you check the date, youÕll see this is NOT 01 April.
- -RS-


- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 22:53:33 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Pheno-Phind, II

Any of you in the area would do WELL to stop by, ~5 mi S/Lansing on Onondaga
Rd., to Toles Rd., turn R=West, 1st place on the R=North. 5570 Toles Rd.


- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 22:55:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jim-Bow@webtv.net (James M)
Subject: parts in junkyard

Hi list,
Earlier today while walking through a nearby junkyard, i came across a
couple of oldsmobiles somebody on the list might need parts from.
81 Royale 4 dr. complete                                     (2) 80
cutlass's- one plan jane & the other a surpreme. Had SS || wheels on it,
but i have them.
84 Delta 88 Royale, 2 dr. all there except hood.  has red cloth
interior.                                           66 F-85 4 dr.
If anyones looking for parts, here is the phone# for this junkyard. The
place is called Ewing's Auto Parts- 410-335-6081 and its located in
Baltimore Md. The woman that ownes the place, doesn't ask an arm and a
leg for parts.                                                        

Jim-Bow   73 Omega

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 23:10:49 -0400
From: Uncle Pete <pteubel@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: How much of a bear is adding A/C?

At 06:59 PM 5/20/99 -0700, you wrote:

>My question is, is it really more trouble than it's worth to try to
>retrofit A/C to a non-A/C car?

Its gonna take some serious work.  Todays cars are able to be retrofitted
with AC (factory OEM) much easier than the cars of yesteryear.  I have
often thought of doing a retrofit into some of my cars, but its just too
much of a PITA for me.

I've looked into Vintage Air systems and they look somewhat easier, but are
by no means easy.  If you opt for an under-dash unit, it will prove to be
the easier of them all to do.  But, you'll have this big tumor sticking out
under the dash.  Some don't mind it, some do.  With this unit, all you have
to do is run two hoses thru the firewall.  You don't have to mess with your
current heating ducts.  Compressor brackets are easy to find or fabricate.
Radiator will probably have to be replaced, though.

>having A/C can really be a blessing, particularly for us overweight old
>farts who, by local ordinance, must remain fully clothed at all times.

That's a good one!!!  I break that ordinance all the time up here in MA
<grin>.


Uncle Pete
'51 98 (w/303)
'81 98 (w/307)
'82 98 (w/403)
'86 Ciera

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 22:19:05 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Diversity  (was: car acronyms)

OK guys my brother in law has a chevelle It used to be mine but he bought it
what have you got for a chevrolet?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Uncle Pete <pteubel@mediaone.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 8:44 PM
Subject: Diversity (was: car acronyms)


> At 08:25 PM 5/20/99 -0400, you wrote:
> >> Okay, I've stood by and watched the Mopars get insulted for two days,
> >> enoughs enough! I love my Olds, but I have to stand up for the honour
> >> of all Mopars. Here's one more for Dodge:
> >>
> >>     Defeats Oldsmobiles Daily with Great Ease
>
> >I got your back,  John!!  Here's another:
> >
> >MOPAR:
> >Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly.
>
> HAHAHAHA!!!  Its good to see friendly rivalry here.  We all have various
> cars and most of us are loyal to more than one brand.  Glad to see such
> diversity!  No matter WHAT brand gets slammed, I am always a victim
<grin>.
>
>
> - Uncle Pete
> '51 98
> '63 Monterey
> '66 Coronet 440
> '73 Imperial(ist)
> '73 Imperial(ist) II
> '81 98
> '82 98
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 22:59:01 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: To wax or not to wax?

Lou;
They make a good product, a lot better then my spelling. Could have walked
to the garage but very lazy sort.
Lou

> It's Meguiar's Lou.  Very close.  I've got a catalog in the house.  I've
used 
> their Gold Class Clear Coat Prep and Swirl Reducer on my 96 Blazer then
wax, 
> it gave the truck a nice smooth finish and it looked really good.
> 
> I have the #7 Show Car Glaze and # 26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax for my 442 but
have 
> not had time to use them yet.  I do use the #34 Final Inspection on it.  
> Takes the dust and bugs off and leaves a smooth finish.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 00:02:26 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: To wax or not to wax?

In a message dated 5/20/99 11:59:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
lbiggs@intertek.net writes:

<< They make a good product, a lot better then my spelling. Could have walked
 to the garage but very lazy sort.
  >>

At least you're walking.  I guess the back is feeling better.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 00:10:02 -0400
From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com>
Subject: Re: Ball Joint Time? Opinons, pls

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0133_01BEA31E.456BED80
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Thanks, listers, for all the advice and encouragement on doing the front end
work at home.  I have to admit, however, to wimping out on the "rite of
passage" and having the shop put in the lower ball joints.  As consolation,
it was ready this afternoon, allowing a slight early departure from work and
top-down cruise home by the (really) scenic route.

But, MAN, it steers and handles nice now- huge difference from before.  I've
had this car 15 years, and it's never felt this tight.  Not to mention
smooth (that's another story):

I had them balance all 4 wheels, per the awesome instructions provided on
the list by one Ed Binnix.  I've attached it in case anyone has missed it-
you NEED this information if you're running factory rallye wheels on your
Olds.  Over the years, I've had at least 5 different shops in 3 different
states tell me my wheels were bent, and that's why they couldn't get an
accurate balance.  I even replaced 2 of 'em once- yep, "these are bent too".

I gave a copy of the attached to the shop manager- he read it and said they
would take the advice (probably just to humor me).  But, it must have
worked, because that annoying 38 MPH shimmy is gone, and no vibration at 75
MPH.  No whining about bent wheels either.  Thanks, Ed.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <LOUS69W30@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 9:19 PM
Subject: Re: Ball Joint Time? Opinons, pls


> In a message dated 5/20/99 4:18:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> jcarri@alesis1.usa.com writes:
>
> << If you like working on your car, thats one thing; but I'd say that
>  this particular job was the least enjoyable thing I've ever done on a
>  car.  Maybe the question comes down to : which will hurt more, paying
>  $170, or struggling with icky goop-covered suspension parts bolted
>  tightly down with frozen 30 year old bolts, and filled with
>  recalcitrant bushings that will mock your efforts to get them out for
>  hours before they yield?   >>
>
> Sounds like fun.  Be a man, I say go for it.  Glad I don't have to make
the
> decision. lol
>
> Lou Principe
> 69 442 W-30
>

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From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com>
To: <randerson@aetinc.com>
Subject: Fw: Tire/Wheel Balance Question
Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 10:47:21 -0400
MIME-Version: 1.0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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- ----- Original Message -----
From: Andersons <robertan@cfw.com>
To: <randerson@aet.inc>
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 7:50 AM
Subject: Fw: Tire/Wheel Balance Question


>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ed Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Tuesday, August 11, 1998 6:06 PM
> Subject: Re: Tire/Wheel Balance Question
>
>
> > The problem with SSIII wheels is not the wheels themselves, but the
> flunkies
> > who balance them. Yes, everyone of them. MOST tire jockeys are minimum
> wage
> > amateurs who don't know that it's tricky to mount SSIII's as well as
> SSII's
> > on a balancer. The problem is, the center cone on those wheels are very
> > small. You have to clean the back of the wheel and put the large cup on
> the
> > back of the wheel. In other words the balancer attaching order is such:
> big
> > cup, wheel, very small cone, spinner. Most wheels are: appropriate size
> > cone, wheel, big cup, spinner. Tire guy's may do a set of SSIII's every
> few
> > months while they do normal rims every day. You can tell just by
watching
> > the wheel whether they have it on straight. It will have a slight wobble
> if
> > it's wrong. It will balance on the machine with very LARGE weights in
that
> > manner. But on the car, the tires are even more out of balance than with
> no
> > weights at all.
> >
> > Some important things to remember, mud in the rim will throw off
> balancing.
> > Fix-a-flat will annihilate balancing. The beauty rings are not on the
rim
> > when balancing takes place and beauty rings are not balanced. The guy
will
> > roll his eyes, but if you can talk him into it ($), you can have him
spin
> > the wheel with the trim ring on, take it off to mount the weights, and
> > replace it to re-check it. It DOES make a slight difference. Most of all
> > SUPERVISE. They hate it, but it is your right. If they won't let you, go
> > somewhere else. When I was still in the business, I was the only one in
my
> > shop that could get SSIII's down to zero. I hated pulling of a REAL job
to
> > do it but if we wanted that customer to come back . . . . It takes
someone
> > who cares what they are doing. Generally most tire flunkies are waiting
> for
> > five o'clock.
> >
> > Just my .02, well maybe .03
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > To: Comid <Comid>
> > Date: Tuesday, August 11, 1998 3:04 PM
> > Subject: Tire/Wheel Balance Question
> >
> >
> > >
> > >Received: from halifax.chebucto.ns.ca [129.173.4.205] by jellico.com
with
> > smtp
> > > id APADBODK ; Tue, 11 Aug 1998 15:03:30 -0500
> > >Received: by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca id <34829-395>; Tue, 11 Aug 1998
> > 15:59:47 -0300
> > >Received: from mbunix.mitre.org ([129.83.20.100]:2137 "EHLO
> > mbunix.mitre.org" ident: "NO-IDENT-SERVICE") by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca
> with
> > ESMTP id <37650-394>; Tue, 11 Aug 1998 15:59:13 -0300
> > >Received: from mail90.mitre.org (mail90.mitre.org [129.83.20.81])
> > > by mbunix.mitre.org (8.8.8/8.8.8/mitre.0) with SMTP id OAA14664
> > > for <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; Tue, 11 Aug 1998 14:58:10 -0400 (EDT)
> > >Received: from tbartee-pc.mitre.org by mail90.mitre.org
> > (5.65v4.0/1.1.8.2/22Jun94-0628PM)
> > > id AA05303; Tue, 11 Aug 1998 14:58:07 -0400
> > >Message-Id: <9808111858.AA05303@mail90.mitre.org>
> > >X-Sender: tbartee@129.83.20.81
> > >X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Pro Version 4.0
> > >Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 14:58:29 -0400
> > >To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > >From: "Thomas Q. Bartee" <tbartee@mitre.org>
> > >Subject: Tire/Wheel Balance Question
> > >X-Orcpt: rfc822;"|/csuite/etc/majordomo/wrapper resend -l oldsmobile -h
> > chebucto.ns.ca oldsmobile-mml"
> > >Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> > >Precedence: bulk
> > >Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > >
> > >Hi everyone - I have a question pertaining to my '85 Olds Cutlass
Salon -
> > >at highway speeds the car vibrates a bit, seems like lately more than
> > >usual.  The common diagnosis for this is to rebalance the wheels/tires.
> I
> > >have the factory SSIII wheels (5-spoke chrome) on the car (the tires
are
> > >Firestone Firehawks, P215/70R14s).  One time when I had the tires
> balanced
> > >(with a different set of tires), the tire technician told me that the
> > >wheels were "not balanced" and that he could put the larger weights on
> the
> > >wheel, but it still may not ride perfect.  Several times thereafter I
> have
> > >had the wheels balanced and they always end up with a very large weight
> > >attached (even with new tires).
> > >
> > >My questions are: has anyone had any problems with balancing tires on
the
> > >SSIII wheels?  Would I likely get a better ride if I swapped for
another
> > >type of wheel?  Any other things I should check?  I don't suspect the
> front
> > >alignment is bad since the tire wear is even across the front tires.
> > >
> > >TIA, all help appreciated - Tom.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0133_01BEA31E.456BED80--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 00:17:11 -0400
From: J&T <tjf26@gte.net>
Subject: Need carb rebuild hints

I'm going to attempt a rebuild on my carb, 70 quadrajet. If anyone has
any helpful hints on what to do or not to do, I would greatly appreciate
it.
                                                 Thanks,
                                                    Joe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 23:16:25 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: How much of a bear is adding A/C?

>My question is, is it really more trouble than it's worth to try to
>retrofit A/C to a non-A/C car? Seems like changing most anything else, be
>it disk brakes, engines, trannies, etc., is not that big a deal.
>Unfortunately, it's hot and humid enough in southeastern Virginia that
>having A/C can really be a blessing, particularly for us overweight old
>farts who, by local ordinance, must remain fully clothed at all times.


John,
How good are you with a wrench?  What year/car are you looking for
exactly?  I'm about to attempt a full factory conversion of my 68 Supreme
so I have done a bit of research on the subject as far as 68-72 A bodies.
If your not good with a wrench, then don't attempt it yourself and paying
someone else to do it could get quite expensive.  The conversion will
include modification of the firewall (cutting and patching a bit),
relocation
of the alternator, changing the water pump, new drive pulleys, clutch fan,
control panel, dash pad (68 to 69 only), and interior/underhood boxes.
There is also a special wire harness and a bunch of vacuum lines.  Also
you have to switch the kick panels if they have the pull vents and change
the plates behind there.  Sounds like a lot of work don't it?  If you can
get a cheap parts car that has what you need then you'll come out ahead
since you will know how all the parts are supposed to fit in.  If you don't
want to mess with all of that, you can go the Vintage Air route which will
work very well if installed correctly.  The reason I'm going through the
trouble of putting A/C in my 68 is because I got it for $1200 with very
little rust and a pretty straight body.  It cost me $250 for almost all the
A/C parts and after it's all over I figure I'll invest another $200
completing
the conversion.  Considering I've been driving the car daily for over a year
without putting much money into it I figure I've come out ahead of the $3000
that people want around here for a similar car that has original, though non
functional A/C.  The car has the stuff I wanted that's hard to find like
buckets
and a console, and the stuff it doesn't have is easily changed like a 2
barrel
carb and drum brakes.  The A/C was the only thing that it didn't have that
isn't easy to convert.  Set your sights on an original,
unrestored/unmolested
car and worry about options secondary.  With a little TLC and very little
money, EVERYTHING on my car works, including the clock.  I also know
a lot of people who have cars that someone else has modified/molested
and they spend lots of $$$ trying to make everything right much less
upgrading.
Pay particular attention to the wiring.  Enough rambling, HTH.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 00:15:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Weather Formula (fwd)

Yeah, well, wrong Chris Witt, but, fascinating concept put forth here.


Forwarded message:
> From JGnadt@Gleason.com Thu May 20 11:34:32 1999
> Message-ID: 
<768CBFFB8FEAD111BB0200805F31B1965AC885@exchgsrv.rochester.gleason
.com>
> From: "Gnadt, James J." <JGnadt@Gleason.com>
> To: "'chris witt'" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
> Subject: Weather Formula
> Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 11:29:47 -0400
> MIME-Version: 1.0
> X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2448.0)
> Content-Type: text/plain;
>     charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Chris,
>
> I am a car enthusiast from Rochester, New York.   I am into Pontiac GTOs (
> one hardtop "driver", one restored 455HO convertible, one convertible drag
> race car).  I got your name by searching the Internet after reading an
> article in the June, 1999 edition of Bracket Racing USA.  I believe you to
> be the author of an item which addresses ET prediction based on weather
> conditions.
>
> I have been interested in this subject for some time but have found other
> approaches less "scientific" than your's appears to be.   Unfortunately, I
> have not been able to make the printed version of your formula work.  I
> presume I am making some sort of elementary mistake, am using improper units
> of measure, or (most likely) there was a misprint in the magazine.  This is
> what I think I know about the formula:
>
>     - The problem appears to be in the calculation of the dew point
> vapor pressure, which I believe to be the partial vapor pressure of water.
>     - Texts treat vapor pressure (at least within the temperature range
> I am concerned with) in a non PV=RT manner.
>     - The 33.86389 factor appearing in the equation would seem to be a
> conversion from millibars to inches of mercury.
>     - The 29.92 factor in the ET calculation appears to be dealing with
> the portion of air in the gaseous mixture, in atmospheres.
>     - The temperature factors in the ET calculation appear to be dealing
> in Rankine units (base on the 459.6 factor).
>
> Since I had no equation for dealing with the partial water pressure, I
> derived a formula with Matlab using tabulated data from a text.  I
> substituted this value into the remainder of your vapor pressure and then
> performed the ET calculation.  Using a standard set of conditions (29.6 "Hg,
> 60 deg F, 55% rel hum) and a trial ET, I then attempted to determine the
> "performance factor" exponent value for past runs I had recorded the data
> for.  It is interesting to me that my value seems to be .220 (compared to
> your .349).  The trial ET seems to vary some daily but this may be caused by
> changes to the car's setup I have made between sessions (I don't usually
> change during a session).  I don't have enough good data to be conclusive
> but using this approach seems to predict ET to within +/- .01 seconds.
>
> You probably have heard from a lot of people since this article came out and
> it is difficult to respond to them all.  I hope you can find some time to
> reply to me at jgnadt@gleason.com with your comments regarding what I have
> done or don't yet understand.  Thanks.
>
> Jim Gnadt
>
>
>


- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 23:33:03 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: To wax or not to wax?

Lou;
Barely, shots Monday, just drugged now.
Lou
- ----------
> From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: To wax or not to wax?

> At least you're walking.  I guess the back is feeling better.
> 
> Lou Principe
> 69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 23:38:37 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: aluminum vs Fe

>>Has anyone out there picked up a set of the new Edelbrock heads?  If so
how good are they?  I have a set of 'C' heads that I was going to have
rebuilt.  Will the Edelbrock heads be worth the extra cash?  I am no where
near ready to build the motor,  but I like to dream.
The motor of my dream is streetable,  runs on pump gas,  and can be driven
daily.  Will 10:1 slugs be able to live up to this or should I go to a lower
compression?  I am planing a roller rocker set up.  Give me some ideas for
cam specs.  Drive train to date is a 3.73 10 bolt posi rear,  and 400 trany.
Wheels are 14 inch rims with 235's?  I think.  I havent looked at them in
awhile.  OK thats it for now, thanks.  I am getting carried away again.<<


I have no experience with the Edelbrock heads on an Olds
but they will allow you to run slightly higher CR.  10:1 is
streetable, but I would go with a cam with 108 degree lobe
centers to bleed off a bit of that compression.  As long as
you keep the duration on the mild side you can get up to
.500" lift and still keep your "daily driver" status.  From what
I have seen on the list, if you can get your C heads mildly
ported at a reasonable cost (mainly just cleaned up and
blended) you'll come out better than the Edelbrock's.  Think
about getting them cut for larger valves and invest in stainless.
Another thing to dream about is fuel injection.  It amazed me
how much it smoothed out my 72 when I installed it.  Will allow
you to run much more cam while still being streetable.  Just a
thought, but I believe it would be a better investment than the
aluminum heads.

For Karl, yes you can run 235's on 14" rims.  I have 235/60R14's
on the front of my 68.  Along with 275/60R15's in the back.  Gives
it a nice rake.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 21:45:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff & Sherie Stanish <stanishj@svpal.org>
Subject: Re: Ball Joint Time? Opinons, pls

Sounds like a deal to me in California it'd be double that!

On Thu, 20 May 1999, John Carri wrote:

> Robert Anderson wrote:
> 
> >My local shop failed me on state insection; lower ball joints.  This 
> >is a real high miles car, so it's easy to believe.  They quoted $170 
> >to do the thing, parts, labor, alignment, which seems pretty decent.  
> <snipped>
> 
> >So, you think I should bring her home and do the joints, bushings,
> >springs (missing a few precious weeks of great top-down cruising
> >weather), or let them just "do it to it"? 
> __________________________________________
> 
> Bob, you ever hear about those manhood initiation ceremonies that some 
> African tribes put their teenage boys through?  Two or three weeks of 
> torment, but then they get to brag about it for the rest of their 
> lives?
> 
> Well, that's exactly how I feel about having replaced the lower 
> control arm bushings, ball-joints, and coil-springs on my Olds a 
> couple of weeks ago!
> 
> If you like working on your car, thats one thing; but I'd say that 
> this particular job was the least enjoyable thing I've ever done on a 
> car.  Maybe the question comes down to : which will hurt more, paying 
> $170, or struggling with icky goop-covered suspension parts bolted 
> tightly down with frozen 30 year old bolts, and filled with 
> recalcitrant bushings that will mock your efforts to get them out for 
> hours before they yield?  Only your wallet and your ego can tell you!
> In my case, my wallet is thin, and I don't know of a good mechanic I 
> trust not to take a big hammer to my car, so that decided it for me.
> 
> Good luck either way!
> 
> -John Carri
> '72 Supreme
> '73 340 RoadRunner
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 00:57:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 350 rocket defined

Fielded this Q JUST the other day, here was my response...


Forwarded message:
> From dayton_@hotmail.com Fri May 21 00:42:49 1999
> From: "Dayton Lacroix" <dayton_@hotmail.com>
> Subject: 350 rocket
>
> What is the difference between a normal 350 and a 350 rocket? is the rocket
> better.
=======================
  I have a freind who would like to know what exactly is the difference
  between the 350 rocket and the normal 350?
  Thanx
=================

To which *the* Rocket Scientist responds:

The "Rocket 350" air cleaner label.

In seriousness, the term "Rocket" was used over many years, starting in
1949, on many motors. The '73 350 carried a "Rocket 350" AC Label, but can
hardly
be compared to even the lowliest of the '67 330 motors with their 9:1
compression.

It means little, except to impress the clueless, in a nutshell.  I suppose
it generally meant the better 4V version of the then-current 350. As opposed
to the 2V version. Many folks think the Gold colored 350's were magic or
something. Despite the fact that gold paint was used thru '76, and '73-'76
were the smog EGR motors.

Oh, yeah, the older ones, including most "Rocket" 350's, pre-77, were all
Solid Main web motors, heavier beefier castings... important for VHD or race
use.
- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist



- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 01:18:56 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: How much of a bear is adding A/C?

> Should I happen to fall in love with a non A/C car and want to add A/C
> later, would you try to go factory, or go with an aftermarket package, like
> Vintage Air's? (I'm looking for a less-than-perfect driver that shouldn't

To add factory, you'll have to cut some big holes in the firewall.  If I
ever A/C my '71 it'll be a underdash unit (aftermarket) with factory stuff
ahead of the firewall.   I've seen it done and it looks great.   

The aftermarket kits look, well, aftermarket under the hook.   To make it
even better, you could try and find a underdash from the 60's or 70's.
Chrysler used them by the ton and they usually look just about right.

Yes, it gets swampy here in NY too... ragtop just won't do sometimes.

> John Livingston
> Oldless in Newport News, VA

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    -->   bob@tecmark.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 22:34:52 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Going to the Track first time, pointers needed

Igor Todorovic wrote:
<snip>
>  I want to make sure that I get a
> good reaction time so that my car runs as quick as possible.  What about
> traction on Radials (compared to street, for example) and so on.  Thanks.




Igor,

Reaction time has no effect on ET or MPH.  RT only measures
how close the driver/vehicle anticipated the green.
The closer one can get to a perfect light (.500 or .000
depending on which bulb your tracks system takes the
RT from), the better your chance of beating your 
opponent with a "holeshot".   While this is a critical element 
of winning races, again, RT has no bearing on ET or MPH.  Since
it sounds like minimum ET is your main concern here, you need not 
be intimidated by feeling like you have to leave right on the 
green. The ET/MPH clocks don't care if you don't leave until next
Tuesday (although the track officials and fellow competitors
might).  As your focus is on a low ET slip, concentrate instead 
on starting line position.  I would suggest staging as shallow as 
possible. Light the pre-stage bulb, then INCH your way forward
and STOP as soon as you activate the staged light. This will give 
you maximum rollout against the photocells. (Further rollout can 
also be obtained by putting the tallest front tires you can on 
the car).  Since you have noted in the past that traction is a
problem, some finesse is going to be required with your starting 
line technique.  On your first pass, foot brake the car just 
above idle, and leave with about half throttle, if it doesn't 
spin the tires, keep pushing 'er to the floor.  It will probably 
take a few passes to optimize acceleration by minimizing the 
wheel spin.  

Hope this helps.  Have fun!


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Web Site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com
- ---------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 22:51:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: EDMUND WILLIAMS <efw67@yahoo.com>
Subject: WE NEED AN OLDS BIG BODY CLUB

Why aren't there clubs out there for the big body Oldsmobiles. Everyone
talks about the Cutlass/442 H/O's and Toronados. What about the
Delta88's,98's,Dynamic88's,Starfires and Delmont88's? Don't get me
wrong, I love cutlasses,442's and so forth, but I feel the big body
cars don't get enough recognition. I'm sure their are more Olds fans
out there that agrees with me, let's here from them! Edfrom New York
'85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
                '70 Delta88 Holiday sedan
_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 01:58:02 -0400
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: WE NEED AN OLDS BIG BODY CLUB

I've had a couple of Delta 88's and they kicked ass!

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of EDMUND WILLIAMS
> Sent: Friday, May 21, 1999 1:52 AM
> To: OLDS GENERAL MOTORS
> Subject: WE NEED AN OLDS BIG BODY CLUB
> 
> 
> Why aren't there clubs out there for the big body Oldsmobiles. Everyone
> talks about the Cutlass/442 H/O's and Toronados. What about the
> Delta88's,98's,Dynamic88's,Starfires and Delmont88's? Don't get me
> wrong, I love cutlasses,442's and so forth, but I feel the big body
> cars don't get enough recognition. I'm sure their are more Olds fans
> out there that agrees with me, let's here from them! Edfrom New York
> '85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
>                 '70 Delta88 Holiday sedan
> _____________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 03:15:42 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: WE NEED AN OLDS BIG BODY CLUB

Ed;

That's how a club, (list), gets started. Someone asks this very question,
than takes it upon them selves to start what is not there and breath life
into it. Good luck, Sounds like you elected yourself for active duty.
Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

Edmund wrote;

> Why aren't there clubs out there for the big body Oldsmobiles. Everyone
> talks about the Cutlass/442 H/O's and Toronados. What about the
> Delta88's,98's,Dynamic88's,Starfires and Delmont88's? Don't get me
> wrong, I love cutlasses,442's and so forth, but I feel the big body
> cars don't get enough recognition. I'm sure their are more Olds fans
> out there that agrees with me, let's here from them! Edfrom New York
> '85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
>                 '70 Delta88 Holiday

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 09:07:44 +0200
From: Alain Lachatre <alain.l@netclic.fr>
Subject: Brake question

Hi everybody,

I have a question or two for all.
My car is a 73 delta 88 royale convertible. It needs some work on the brake
system.
It doesn't have the heavy duty break option, so the brake booster is an 8"
Bendix tandem diaphragm and the master cylinder is a Moraine Delco.
I'd like to rebuild, recondition, refinish the two of them. I already spoke
to Steve Gregori, but he told me he was dealing with Delco boosters only
and he only sells after market master cylinders.
Precision: I leave in France and shipping cost being what it is I plan
buying replacement parts, but would like to get original.
First question(!): Can I replace a Bendix booster by a Delco booster? I
read in the service manual and the parts book Delco was used for heavy duty
break option only. Will it work with standard brake option?
What else do I have to change to go for heavy duty brake option?
Second questions: Where can I find a Bendix booster #1241393 and Delco
master cylinder #18000996 ( preferably N.O.S.)? Who is ready to help me?

I would prefer to keep the car as original as I can so the second
alternative is the one I like best (Bendix booster and Delco Moraine master
cylinder)

It's impossible to get parts for the car here in France and it's quite
difficult and expensive to search all over the States, so any help will be
very welcome.

Please reply privately for any non-general-interest-information.
Thank you

Alain

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 02:18:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Livingston <john@johnlivingston.com>
Subject: RE: WE NEED AN OLDS BIG BODY CLUB

I'm only 5' 10" but about 200 lbs. Certainly most of my students think I'm
old. Would I qualify for the club?

John

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 02:24:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Livingston <john@johnlivingston.com>
Subject: Was: How much of a bear is adding A/C? re: Vintage Air

Chris,

>What is Vintage Air?
>
These guys are big in the hot rod air conditioning market. They also do
systems for vintage automobiles, too. Seem to have a pretty decent rep.

Here's their URL:

http://www.hotrodsworldwide.com/vendors/vintage.htm

John

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 02:33:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Livingston <john@johnlivingston.com>
Subject: Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!

I haven't followed all this thread, so I apologize if some of this has
already been mentioned.

I've used synthetics - mostly Mobil 1 - for about 15 years (since we lived
out in 29 Palms, CA, where it gets seriously hot). I feel that they do
reduce wear, tho certainly I have nothing but anecdotal evidence to prove
this. However, I also find that you tend to get a bit more oil on the
garage floor as synthetics seem to work their way past oil seals a bit more
easily than regular lubricants. I hear this is more of a problem with the
older cars many of us enjoy. Not a huge deal, tho.

John

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 06:45:43 -0400
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!

I run the synthec in my 68. oil pressure 50 idle at 900 rpms and 65-70 at 6000
. I had the crank repolished to try and get a 1/2 thou. more clearance on rods
and oil pressure is still the same.              Butch

Peter Landowski wrote:

> I have about 500 miles on my 455. It has Childs & ALberts zero gap rings in
> it. I have used 20W-50 Castrol GTX since it was new. Would i be OK to go to
> synthetic or should I play it safe and put another 500 miles on the motor
> with conventional oil to make sure the rings have seated?
>
> Pettrix@prodigy.net
> >od
>
> >

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 06:49:46 -0400
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Re: Phenomenal Phind

Man some of you guys must be on crack :)   Butch

Chris Brown Witt wrote:

> Saw an ad in the local small town paper today... yard sale, Oldsmobile p
> arts. Stopped by on the way home to investigate. What an understatement.
> 40x60 pole barn and a trailer  with all sorts of items. Guy used to work
> at Olds I guess, boxes full of NOS items in the package. NOS 1/4 panels
> on the wall. Dealer displays. Aerotech and similar go-karts with gas
> motors. 59? 98 2-door with J-2 tri-carb setup. '68 Cutlass with FACTORY
> EXPERIMENTAL 455, Mondello modified K heads, 518 CID. On the stand, a
> 600hp 350 motor. Various & sundry blocks sitting here & there. Outside,
> a real '68 H/O, currently sporting incorrect motor. Z-Z paint code. This
> man even has rigged up an ELEVATOR out of a garage door opener mechanism
> to lift parts upstairs in the barn. Oh, and outside... is a mid 80Õs??
> Toronado, modified with ***2 rear axles*** and an ElCamino bed. [btw,
> recently saw a Hot Wheels similar car, with wrecker boom fitted to it.]
> In the barn, also, a Vista of '72 or so getting a 3" top chop. Outside,
> a VERY pretty rustless, needs paint, etc. 71-2 Cutlass 2-door project
> car, he said $1500 would take it. WELL worth that in rust repair savings
> alone. In the pole barn also, boxes and boxes of Ô91 and '96 Literature,
> new. I was on the way home... could not even START to assess all that
> the man has there.
>
> Turns out I knew the man, never got around to visiting him at this
> location. He used to live on the street where I grew up. That's where/
> when he made that ultra-shorty sparkly green & black doorless '57?
> that folks marveled at during the centennial meet.
>
> I would like to get photos of the 3-axle Toronado-Camino, the
> experimental block, and the green chopped car, but technology is
> limited here. Would anyone care to post these on a web page?
>
> If you check the date, youÕll see this is NOT 01 April.
> -RS-
>
> --
> Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
> Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
> --
> 517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
> Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 07:02:43 -0400
From: Mark Cornea <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: Re: emission decal

Ed Linehan wrote:
> 
> Hello listers,
> 
> The emission sticker I have on my 70 W-30 Sport Coupe ( please no
> comments from you know who) has a circle at the bottom of the right
> hand side with SG inside.  Are there any other cars out there that
> have a code other than OF for auto trans cars?  The sticker specifies
> 1970 and matches all other stickers in every respect except for the
> code.  The sticker is ratty and needs to be replaced.  Shall I replace
> with reproduction and look like everyone else or should I leave it
> alone.  Also, the aqua colored stamp on my firewall does not look like
> TT it more resembles II inside the square.  Is this normal?
> 
> 
> Ed Linehan


	Ed,  Here is the break down of the '70 tune up codes. There were 2
vendors that made the emission stickers in '70, vendor 1 is code "S"
with a circle  and vendor 2 is code "O" with a rectangle, so in the
lower right hand corner a code designation of "SF" is the same as "OF",
just different vendors. Those codes do not match trans codes.

         ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
               Mark Cornea (Dr. Decal)  OCA# 4903
                             1970 W30 (red)

                      mailto:drdecal@wwnet.net

                    Visit http://www.drdecal.com
        ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 08:25:42 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: WE NEED AN OLDS BIG BODY CLUB

EDMUND WILLIAMS wrote:
> 
> Why aren't there clubs out there for the big body Oldsmobiles. Everyone
> talks about the Cutlass/442 H/O's and Toronados. What about the
> Delta88's,98's,Dynamic88's,Starfires and Delmont88's? Don't get me
> wrong, I love cutlasses,442's and so forth, but I feel the big body
> cars don't get enough recognition. I'm sure their are more Olds fans
> out there that agrees with me, let's here from them! Edfrom New York
> '85 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
>                 '70 Delta88 Holiday sedan

The National Antique Oldsmobile Club currently accepts all Oldsmobiles
up to 1964, but the Board of Directors will soon be voting on whether or
not to expand that to include all full-sized cars up to 1973.

Keep your fingers crossed,

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 08:46:52 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Ball Joint Time? Opinons, pls

In a message dated 05/21/1999 12:07:28 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
robertan@cfw.com writes:

<< I have to admit, however, to wimping out on the "rite of
 passage" and having the shop put in the lower ball joints.  As consolation,
 it was ready this afternoon, allowing a slight early departure from work and
 top-down cruise home by the (really) scenic route. >>

I think that's a good trade off.  I'd always rather be driving or cleaning my 
car.  The other work can be fun or a pain in the a*s depending on the 
project.  I'm sure you made the right decsion.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1971
*********************************

