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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1914


oldsmobile-digest       Tuesday, April 20 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1914



Re: 1978 Cutlass Wandering?
"Silvery" Trunk Panel 
Re: 1978 Cutlass Wandering?
Re: 455 in a 87 442
Re: "Silvery" Trunk Panel
Re: "Silvery" Trunk Panel
Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?
Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?
Full figured Olds on Ebay
Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?
Yellow Paint.....now its getting more interesting!
Dual Gate Shifter.
Re: Yellow Paint.....now its getting more interesting!
Re: Dual Gate Shifter.
Re: Yellow Paint.....now its getting more interesting!
Re: Dual Gate Shifter.
airfilter 3 inch thk versus 4inch thk?
NO list?
Re: Dual Gate Shifter.
Re: Full figured Olds on Ebay
71 and 72 Hoods!
Re: rubber fuel-lines a no-no...(was fuel pump to carb line)
Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?
Your have a postcard!!!
(no subject)
Denver
Re: rubber fuel-lines a no-no...(was fuel pump to carb line)
Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)
Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)
Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?
Re: airfilter 3 inch thk versus 4inch thk?
Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)
Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)
Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)
Re: starter solenoid & motor  (was: my olds won't start)
Re: fuel lines
Re: fuel lines
Re: fuel lines
Idiot Lights Not Working
Re: 1978 Cutlass Wandering?
Re: Idiot Lights Not Working
Re: Changed my rear suspension
Re: Idiot Lights Not Working
Re: rubber fuel-lines a no-no...(was fuel pump to carb line)
RE: Aurora transmission
olds list
Re: Dual Gate Shifter.
Re: Dual Gate Shifter.
My first Big Block
Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)
'77 Cutlass for sale
Experience with Tamraz's
Where to get "turkey-tray" intake gasket
Re: Where to get "turkey-tray" intake gasket
Re: Where to get "turkey-tray" intake gasket

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 22:01:39 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <hurstolds@duesouth.net>
Subject: Re: 1978 Cutlass Wandering?

Speculating here....you say it's been aligned already?  By a reputable shop?
Not trying to insult your mechanics, but just checking all avenues.

Two, maybe three adjustments plus a parts check to possibly consider.
Caster/camber settings and checking the ball/sockets on the front end steering
linkage..

Caster settings have a tremendous effect on "wandering" and "road feel".    The
more postitive the caster settings, the more the car has a tendency to
straighten the wheels by itself after a turn, plus be a bit more resistant to
turning the wheels to begin with.  Postive caster is when the top ball joint is
slightly rearward of straight up and down from center compared to the lower 
ball
joint.  Negative caster is when the upper ball joint is on a plane forward of
the lower ball joint.

Camber settings MIGHT have something of an effect as well.  Roads are typically
engineered with a "crown" in the center to avail for water drainage.  Camber
settings are adjusted accordingly in most instances to accomodate.  If there's
too much "straight up" in the settings, the car can tend to wander.  Again, 
most
of the time, the driver's side is set at a positive miniscule amount, such as
+1/4 and the passenger side is set at 0 or MAYBE just a smidgen of a negative
amount.  Postitive camber is when the top of the tire leans out farther than 
the
bottom, and of course negative is when the top leans inward.

Toe-in (or toe-out) settings may also play a part in the road feel.  If toe-out
is present and is excessive, then you could find your car wandering a bit.
Typically, toe-IN for your car is around 1/8", but consult a manual to be sure.
Toe settings are performed while the car is at rest, so when all the friction
forces and linkage play are taken up when the car is moving forward, the toe
settings SHOULD theoretically be zero when the slack is taken up.

Also, since the idler arm was replaced, and the pitman arm is just a "hunk of
metal", then the center link ball/socket, where it connects to the pitman arm,
may be at fault.  Or tie-rod ends.

A note about those ball/sockets.  They are spring loaded to keep slack out of
them during their life, however, after time, the springs become weak, and the
firmness leaves.  If you take your car to have it checked by a mechanic, they
MIGHT try and use channel-lock/water-pump pliers on them to squeeze them and
show you they are "bad".   Don't trust this method.  Your grandmother can get
them to deflect using pliers.  The "tried and true" method of checking is using
only your hand to squeeze the ball/socket to try and compress the spring.  If
it's tough as nails, it's probably ok.  If it mushes in like today's 
fresh-baked
Wonder bread, you might need to replace the faulty parts.

IMHO, it sounds as if something is loose as a goose underneath, but again, just
speculating.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 22:11:43 -0400
From: Tom Voltaggio <tvoltagg@voicenet.com>
Subject: "Silvery" Trunk Panel 

Can anyone suggest a good source for a "used" trunk panel (The one with
the silvery back) from a 96 Cutlass Supreme?  The "silvery" foil behind
the clear plastic has disintegrated.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 22:25:06 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: 1978 Cutlass Wandering?

Mike Rothe wrote:
> 
> Speculating here....

More speculating here...Think you could have a severly bent rim?...Would
that do it? 

Has anyone suggested a sticking caliper perhaps?

This is tough...I'ts hard to come up with anything...

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Surpeme
80 Cutlass Calais
73 98 LS

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 22:21:29 -0400
From: Daniel Hall <cdhall@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: 455 in a 87 442

I just found a couple of 403 engines and planning on putting one in my 87
442. I'm trying to decide whether to use the 403 heads and intake with low
compression or use the 307 heads and intake for higher compression but they
will have a restricted air flow. I'm planning on keeping the ecm,
distributor and carb on the car. I decided to go with this instead of the
455 or 400 to keep it looking stock and plan on using it as more of a daily
driver.  Which setup would be the best way to go?


  Daniel Hall
  cdhall@cwix.com
87 442
70 Cutlass Supreme SX W-32
70 Toro
69 Toro
76 98
- ----------
> From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 455 in a 87 442
> Date: Friday, April 02, 1999 4:35 AM
> 
> Check this out for more info about the swap:
> 
> http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet/bbswap.htm
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 22:20:22 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: "Silvery" Trunk Panel

Tom Voltaggio wrote:
> 
> Can anyone suggest a good source for a "used" trunk panel (The one with
> the silvery back) from a 96 Cutlass Supreme?  The "silvery" foil behind
> the clear plastic has disintegrated.

I think just about every one of these I've seen is the same way, at
least on the roads.  You may try a local salvage yard, but I bet their
all the same - and they may not be willing to remove the trim from the
truck - they like to sell that stuff all as one peice.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 22:29:03 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: "Silvery" Trunk Panel

Tom Voltaggio wrote:
> 
> Can anyone suggest a good source for a "used" trunk panel (The one with
> the silvery back) from a 96 Cutlass Supreme?  The "silvery" foil behind
> the clear plastic has disintegrated.


Haven't been closely following the thread but can you possibly remove
the plastic panel and put some sort of silver coating on it yourself? 
There's a product availible in hobby stores called bare metal foil. 
It's used to simulate chrome on model cars.  Comes in a 12x8 sheet I
think.  Silver paint might look ok, but probably not as good as the BMF
or the original stuff.  

Just a thought.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais
73 98 LS

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 22:38:17 -0400
From: Nikolaj Richers <nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca>
Subject: Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?

Dave Cullen wrote:
> On my 85, the lockout pin acts on the throttle shaft, not the air valves.
> Secondary throttle linkage is spring coupled, so as not to bust when the pin
> is engaged and the shaft won't move (cold choke). This spring can lose its
> tension, and not provide enough "push" to open the secondary throttle plates
> against engine vacuum. No "bauuuugh".

I think I'm missing my sound. Where's my 'bauuuugh', my 'swoosh'?! 

Question: so why would one suggest removing the secondary lock-out pin?
(I mentioned this earlier in one of my posts). What happens to cold
driveability in exchange for not having to worry about the secondaries
being locked when you don't want them to?

	Nikolaj

- -- 
Nikolaj Richers, Toronto, Canada; nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 22:55:13 -0400
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?

Nikolaj Richers wrote:

> Dave Cullen wrote:
> > On my 85, the lockout pin acts on the throttle shaft, not the air valves.
> > Secondary throttle linkage is spring coupled, so as not to bust when the 
pin
> > is engaged and the shaft won't move (cold choke). This spring can lose its
> > tension, and not provide enough "push" to open the secondary throttle 
plates
> > against engine vacuum. No "bauuuugh".
>
> I think I'm missing my sound. Where's my 'bauuuugh', my 'swoosh'?!
>
> Question: so why would one suggest removing the secondary lock-out pin?
> (I mentioned this earlier in one of my posts). What happens to cold
> driveability in exchange for not having to worry about the secondaries
> being locked when you don't want them to?
>
>         Nikolaj
>
> --
> Nikolaj Richers, Toronto, Canada; nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca

I don't know about the other members to this list - but I personally have 
removed
the pin on every Quadrajet I've ever owned!  As far as a cold weather 
drivability
problem - I never experienced any - even when I was living in the Upper 
Penisula
of Michigan during the winter!  I found that even if you do "accidentally" 
crack
the fours open under "choke" type conditions, that the choke richens up the
primary side enough to keep the motor from stumbling during these 
conditions.Just
my experiences...
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310 hp tied to a glide and highway gears :-(

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 22:51:22 EDT
From: Oldsmobeav@aol.com
Subject: Full figured Olds on Ebay

You big car freaks might like the 65 98ls 4dr  on Ebay.56k miles
original 425cid. Red with black vinyl. Current bid 1085.
Seems like I have three times that into my 400 build up already.
Upper north car though.

Search 65 olds and see the pic if interested.

Steve
37 business cope
65 f85 deluxe 2dr sedan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 22:52:26 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?

removing the pin will not effect cold start / driving...just dont get on the 
car until she is warmed up...have some sense...also , I dont know all of the 
replys but just disconnect the secondary arm that connects to the vacuum 
diaphram on the side of the carb....if you are wondering if they are opening 
or not......they open alot faster that way and  the car will run just fine if 
you have 3.73 gears like my 83 Hurst Olds does....you can get fancy and 
adjust the  tention on the secondaries but most likely there is no need for 
that......( if you want to there is an allen head screw under the secondary 
butterfly shaft where the arm is connected and a screw on the side, loosen 
the allen screw and have the screw driver in the screw head and to loosen the 
secondary tention go counter clockwise with the screw and to tighten the 
tention go clock wise, then tighten the allen head screw underneath ....dont 
make it too loose or they could open when you are just driving normal and of 
course you dont want to do this at all if your car has something like 2.78 
gears...or worse , bog city...talk to you soon, Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 19:58:08 -0700
From: "Mountney, Scott" <scott.mountney@attws.com>
Subject: Yellow Paint.....now its getting more interesting!

Paul,

>Maybe they were '70s?

No, definitely not, have seen the sebring yellow on 72s.   I was at this
thing called original "Musclecar Nationals" at Atco raceway in like 1988,
and saw one too.   I have had a 72 since 1987.   The first thing I learned
was reading the tail lights on the back....   :)     However, I dont trust
everyone who says "factory color" because their crazy uncle could have
painted it and used the wrong year yellow......
However, I have seen factory black in 72 also.    I didn't even have any
idea that it was a custom order.  There is a guy on 442.com who had a
original black 72.   I dont know if the picture is there any more.

> By the way,could this be a result of poor GM records or the ability to
order
> a color?     

>Well, I've seen at least 2 '72 Cutlass convertible that are factory
>painted black (verified the trim plate).  Black was not an intermediate
>color in '72.  But these were the days when you could pay extra to have
>a car painted a non-standard color.

> In addition, same goes
> with the hoods.    71 hoods have vents, 72s do not.     I have seen late
71s
> that have both types of hoods. 

>Hood vents depend on what model the car is.  '72 Cutlass Supremes didn't
>get vents, Cutlass Ss did, unless the Supreme was a 442, then it got the
>vents, 'cause all 442s had vents, unless they had the optional ram air
>hood.  Get it?  I don't know how the guys putting these cars together
>managed to get them right with all the variations that were available! 
>My buddy's '72 Cutlass S has hood vents.  He's the original owner and
>they've been there the whole time.

OK, Paul, here is where it gets interesting!!!   I agree, all S cars had
vents, 71, 72, and I agree with everything else except for the mysterious
72.   This is where I start going crazy.   My car is a 72 supreme.   I
needed a new hood (the one without vents, which is what it came with.   I
wanted to get a 72 louvered hood without vents because I have seen them.
In fact, the junkyard in NJ by my parents house has two of these hoods but
they are dented (not modified either)and I couldn't use them.    I checked
around, no one had one.   In chapter 9 of the book "Oldsmobile 442 &
W-Machine Restoration Guide" subtitled as a guide to 'authenticity' by
Patrick Sullivan,(motorbooks international) he clearly shows pictures of 72
442s with louvered hoods and no vents!!!!!!!!!     I couldn't believe it
either.  Check out page 147 if you can get the book.   These are original
grade A collectors cars, no mods.  
Last week on EBAY there was a 72 442 (numbers matching) on auction....it was
rough, but an AWESOME car for parts.  It had the 72 louvered hood, no vents.
I was going to buy it for the hood and some other parts but another guy
wanted the whole car for resto, so I didn't want to run up the price.

I can fax you the photos of these hoods, but I am on my way to Taiwan right
now so I dont know exactly when.

I read an article, reprinted from an olds club that described this
parts/year/color chaos.   Hmmm, dont know what to think.

Scott


Scott Mountney
Senior RF Engineer
AT&T Wireless Services
International Development and Operations
7277 164TH AVE NE
Redmond WA   98052
Desk (425) 580-6364
Cell   (206) 409-3234
Fax  (425) 580-6363

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 21:59:10 -0500 (CDT)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Dr. Olds - K. Wood)
Subject: Dual Gate Shifter.

Anybody know anybody that repairs Hurst
shifters?  I had posted a couple of days ago 
that I could not get a good lock in park, and
first gear would sometimes not engage- now I
know why.  The linkages in the shifter itself
are sloppy.  I can get pretty close to 1/2" of
play forward and back with no cable movement.
Didn't initially notice this... Anyway- In order
to drive the car, I have adjusted the trans linkage to give me park and
have completely
sacrificed 1st gear.  With a Dual-Gate that
seems like a dang waste of time.  I will need
this rebuilt I suppose.  It sure looked pretty
when it arrived here- (Jim Chermack) did a lot
of work cleaning and oiling it up, and it looked
like new...

Any help would be great...

Kevin D. Wood
Dr-Olds@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 23:11:42 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Yellow Paint.....now its getting more interesting!

Mountney, Scott wrote:

>I wanted to get a 72 louvered hood without vents because I have seen them.

> It had the 72 louvered hood, no vents.

You had me totally confused here for about 5 minutes.  I think I now
understand what you mean.  Again, it's a misunderstanding of terms.

I'm calling them vents - you're calling them louvers - we both mean the
two pieces on either side of the hood, right?

You're calling them vents - and I don't know what I'm calling them - but
you mean the COWL vents up by where the wipers are, right?

I never even knew they made hoods without cowl vents, but looking at
that wreck (that's a joke!) on ebay, I see what you mean - louvers, but
no vents.  Wow.  Am if following you?

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 23:20:36 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter.

Hurst still rebuilds there own shifters. Head over to www.mrgasket.com and
go into the Hurst section. You'll find a section where they give you the
price and address to send the complete shifter and linkage to be rebuilt.
Gary...

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Dr. Olds - K. Wood <Dr-Olds@webtv.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, April 19, 1999 10:59 PM
Subject: Dual Gate Shifter.


> Anybody know anybody that repairs Hurst
> shifters?  I had posted a couple of days ago
> that I could not get a good lock in park, and
> first gear would sometimes not engage- now I
> know why.  The linkages in the shifter itself
> are sloppy.  I can get pretty close to 1/2" of
> play forward and back with no cable movement.
> Didn't initially notice this... Anyway- In order
> to drive the car, I have adjusted the trans linkage to give me park and
> have completely
> sacrificed 1st gear.  With a Dual-Gate that
> seems like a dang waste of time.  I will need
> this rebuilt I suppose.  It sure looked pretty
> when it arrived here- (Jim Chermack) did a lot
> of work cleaning and oiling it up, and it looked
> like new...
>
> Any help would be great...
>
> Kevin D. Wood
> Dr-Olds@webtv.net
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 23:20:51 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Yellow Paint.....now its getting more interesting!

Mountney, Scott wrote:
 
> OK, Paul, here is where it gets interesting!!!   I agree, all S cars had
> vents, 71, 72, and I agree with everything else except for the mysterious
> 72.   This is where I start going crazy.   My car is a 72 supreme.   I
> needed a new hood (the one without vents, which is what it came with.   I
> wanted to get a 72 louvered hood without vents because I have seen them.

I know the answer!  I know the answer!  I just looked it up in the '72
Assembly manual.  There are arrow pointing to the "vents" located along
the top edge of hood, near the windshield.  There is a letter "A" that
the arrows are pointing from.  The note for "A" reads: "NO HOOD VENTS ON
AIR CONDITIONED CARS."  So, they had a plain Supreme hood, with or
without vents (which I never knew - have to keep that in mind when I do
the A/C conversion!), and a louvered S/442 hood, with or without vents,
and the Ram Air hood with out vents.  Amazing.  Learned something new
today.  Thanks!

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 23:28:03 -0400
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter.

yeah.....send it back to Mr. Gasket. Dual gates have a lifetime warranty and
Mr. Gasket will honor it. At worse they will charge you $5.00 to rebuild it.
Free if it's broken.

Go to Mr Gasket's website for the details. Someone just posted a new address
recently too.

Randy


> Anybody know anybody that repairs Hurst
> shifters?  I had posted a couple of days ago
> that I could not get a good lock in park, and
> first gear would sometimes not engage- now I
> know why.  The linkages in the shifter itself
> are sloppy.  I can get pretty close to 1/2" of
> play forward and back with no cable movement.
> Didn't initially notice this... Anyway- In order
> to drive the car, I have adjusted the trans linkage to give me park and
> have completely
> sacrificed 1st gear.  With a Dual-Gate that
> seems like a dang waste of time.  I will need
> this rebuilt I suppose.  It sure looked pretty
> when it arrived here- (Jim Chermack) did a lot
> of work cleaning and oiling it up, and it looked
> like new...
>
> Any help would be great...
>
> Kevin D. Wood
> Dr-Olds@webtv.net
>

------------------------------

Date: 19 Apr 99 20:58:19 PDT
From: Randy Hermsen <76Cutlass@netscape.net>
Subject: airfilter 3 inch thk versus 4inch thk?

Had a guy at work today tell me I might put too much air in the carb if I put
on a thicker air filter. On top of the edelbrock preformer intake I got a 14
inch dia. chromey had 3 inch thk. but because I  ultimatly want a K-N air
filter I wanted to know if the hood would shut with the 4 inch thk. cheap
paper one then get a K-N later when I knew it would fit.My vote is he is full
of it ,and doent know what he is talking about.If i could Id shove the air
down with a fan and rich up the mixture a bit lolol.Anyone want to comment on
K-N air filters???
Has anyone got a thk. filter on a 73 to 77 350  how thk.???
                             Randy
                               76 cutlass
                                   W-Z ex. man. on the way 
                                        true duals thinkin pos.  lolol        
          
 


____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://webmail.netscape.com.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 00:00:02 -0400
From: "Erik Gertsen" <ainode@frontiernet.net>
Subject: NO list?

Was i dumped off the list? for the last few days i have not recieved any
list traffic! ARGH!


Erik

Somone reply if they can see this so i know im not nuts.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 23:56:31 -0400
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter.

Oops......$45.00 atleast that was the price last year


> yeah.....send it back to Mr. Gasket. Dual gates have a lifetime warranty
and
> Mr. Gasket will honor it. At worse they will charge you $5.00 to rebuild
it.
> Free if it's broken.
>
> Go to Mr Gasket's website for the details. Someone just posted a new
address
> recently too.
>
> Randy
>
>
> > Anybody know anybody that repairs Hurst
> > shifters?  I had posted a couple of days ago
> > that I could not get a good lock in park, and
> > first gear would sometimes not engage- now I
> > know why.  The linkages in the shifter itself
> > are sloppy.  I can get pretty close to 1/2" of
> > play forward and back with no cable movement.
> > Didn't initially notice this... Anyway- In order
> > to drive the car, I have adjusted the trans linkage to give me park and
> > have completely
> > sacrificed 1st gear.  With a Dual-Gate that
> > seems like a dang waste of time.  I will need
> > this rebuilt I suppose.  It sure looked pretty
> > when it arrived here- (Jim Chermack) did a lot
> > of work cleaning and oiling it up, and it looked
> > like new...
> >
> > Any help would be great...
> >
> > Kevin D. Wood
> > Dr-Olds@webtv.net
> >
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 00:29:54 EDT
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: Full figured Olds on Ebay

Hey  my 62 Olds Starfire is also on EBAY


: )


Vinny

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 00:40:24 -0400
From: "John Pajak" <jspajak@us.hsanet.net>
Subject: 71 and 72 Hoods!

There is some question on the hoods for 71 and 72 Cutlasses and 442s.

There are 3 hoods for 71:

1) OAI hood (Self explanitory)
2) Steel hood with front-rear facing bolt-in chrome louvers and stamped-in
vents near the windshield. (Cutlass S, Std 442)
3) Steel hood with stamped-in vents near the windshield. (Plain Cutlass and
Cutlass Supreme)

There are 5 hoods in 72:
1) OAI hood (Self explanitory)
2) Steel hood with front-rear facing bolt-in chrome louvers and stamped-in
vents near the windshield. (Cutlass S, Std 442 WITHOUT AC)
3) Steel hood with stamped-in vents near the windshield. (Plain Cutlass and
Cutlass Supreme WITHOUT AC)
4) Steel hood with front-rear facing bolt-in chrome louvers and NO
stamped-in vents near the windshield. (Cutlass S, Std 442 WITH AC)
5) Steel hood with NO stamped-in vents near the windshield. (Plain Cutlass
and Cutlass Supreme WITH AC)

Why Olds chose to go with non vented hoods on the 72 AC equipped A-cars is
unknown. ("Plain Cutlass" in the above descriptions includes 4 doors and
station wagons. No disrespect is intended toward these models.) Of course
now that these cars are older you see some "Wrench Engineering" like the
Cutlass S/442 hood with Chrome louvers on a Cutlass Supreme HT...And it
looks good!

John Pajak
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 00:45:18 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: rubber fuel-lines a no-no...(was fuel pump to carb line)

What about using Earl brand aircraft nylon hose? This is what I use on my
olds to hook up the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carb. This hose is
expensive and is used in aircraft applications. It is flexible but has an
outer bylon part with a hard rubber inner part and is rated at 250psi.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
>> Over on the Mopar mailing list there were several posts by 
> professional fire-fighters recently about car enthusiasts being burned 
> to death or injured severely as a result of gasoline fires that 
> resulted from unsafe practices. Keeping this in mind, do you really 
> want to risk using rubber fuel line on top of a hot engine, and within 
> spurting distance of even hotter exhaust manifolds? Yes, it'll work, 
> and yes, the odds are you'll never have a problem. But heaven help you 
> if you are that one in a thousand who does have a problem. Burn wounds 
> are amongst the most painful and disfiguring of injuries, if you are 
> lucky enough to even survive.
> 
> IMHO, it's not worth the risk. Take the time and trouble to do it 
> right, with stock steel fuel line. Aluminium fuel line has a nasty way 
> of fatiguing or corroding and failing unexpectedly, as the listee who 
> recently had an aluminium ladder fail under his weight and who broke 
> his leg as a result can attest. You can find stock replacement line in 
> a junkyard for next to no money, buy speciality line from a number of 
> restoration companiesk,  or buy a tubing bender and double-flaring kit 
> from Harbor Freight and do it yourself. Whatever your budget, there is 
> a safe way to do it.
> 
> We Olds enthusiasts are a rare breed, we can't afford to lose any of 
> our clan to gasoline fires!
> 
> -John Carri
> '72 Supreme
> '73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 01:52:48 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?

In a message dated 4/19/99 7:41:10 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca writes:

<< I think I'm missing my sound. Where's my 'bauuuugh', my 'swoosh'?! 
 
 Question: so why would one suggest removing the secondary lock-out pin?
 (I mentioned this earlier in one of my posts). What happens to cold
 driveability in exchange for not having to worry about the secondaries
 being locked when you don't want them to?
 
 	Nikolaj >>

	Stock air cleaner is pretty well constructed to "deaden" "unwanted" 
noise. Dual snorkel cleaner or open element will let you hear them : ) I 
don't know why you would remove the pin..unless it's just to remove one more 
part that could fail, or cause a problem. Try pushing the air valve open with 
the car idling : ) Since full manifold vacuum is pulling on the diaphraghm, 
and only the lower secondary throttle plates open if the pin is removed, thus 
supplying manifold vacuum to a larger surface,  likely little difference is 
noticed until you really get into them...once again, it's take it easy when 
the engines cold, exactly what the pin is/was 
for.				
		Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 15:03:57 +0900 (JST)
From: <>
Subject: Your have a postcard!!!

Robert has sent you a Postcard.

You May pick it up at The World Lotto 2000 Post Office at
http://www2.worldlotto2000.com/asp/MailID23878.html

Your PostCard will be available for 2 weeks.

Thank You.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 05:57:31 -0500
From: Ralph Haber <cen26984@centuryinter.net>
Subject: (no subject)

unsubscribe

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 05:04:27 -0600
From: "ed" <ed@techniflite.com>
Subject: Denver

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BE8AEB.44501840
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hey list,

Any of this list in the Denver area?  Just saw the most gorgeous 71 442 =
ragtop hammering down C470 this weekend.  It was Matador red with black =
W-30 stripes, spoiler, black interior.  Good to see an awesome Olds out =
for a weekend cruise.  Where did he go?

Ed Linehan
70 442 W-30 Sport Coupe
71 Cutlass SX

- ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BE8AEB.44501840
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hey list,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Any&nbsp;of this list in the Denver =
area?&nbsp;=20
Just saw the most gorgeous 71 442 ragtop hammering down C470 this =
weekend.&nbsp;=20
It was Matador red with black W-30 stripes, spoiler, black =
interior.&nbsp; Good=20
to see an awesome Olds out for a weekend cruise.&nbsp; Where did he=20
go?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Ed Linehan</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>70 442 W-30 Sport Coupe</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>71 Cutlass =
SX</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_000B_01BE8AEB.44501840--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 05:30:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: rubber fuel-lines a no-no...(was fuel pump to carb line)

> Over on the Mopar mailing list there were several
> posts by 
> professional fire-fighters recently about car
> enthusiasts being burned 
> to death or injured severely as a result of gasoline
> fires that 
> resulted from unsafe practices. Keeping this in
> mind, do you really 
> want to risk using rubber fuel line on top of a hot
> engine, and within 
> spurting distance of even hotter exhaust manifolds?
> Yes, it'll work, 
> and yes, the odds are you'll never have a problem.
> But heaven help you 
> if you are that one in a thousand who does have a
> problem. Burn wounds 
> are amongst the most painful and disfiguring of
> injuries, if you are 
> lucky enough to even survive.
> 
> IMHO, it's not worth the risk. Take the time and
> trouble to do it 
> right, with stock steel fuel line. Aluminium fuel
> line has a nasty way 
> of fatiguing or corroding and failing unexpectedly,
> as the listee who 
> recently had an aluminium ladder fail under his
> weight and who broke 
> his leg as a result can attest. You can find stock
> replacement line in 
> a junkyard for next to no money, buy speciality line
> from a number of 
> restoration companiesk,  or buy a tubing bender and
> double-flaring kit 
> from Harbor Freight and do it yourself. Whatever
> your budget, there is 
> a safe way to do it.
> 
> We Olds enthusiasts are a rare breed, we can't
> afford to lose any of 
> our clan to gasoline fires!
====================================
I don't want to start a big debate over this subject,
I just wanted to add in my 1/2 a cent. Granted I can
see the dangers of rubber fuel line. But, if used
correctly you will never have a problem. Use line only
designed for fuel and keep it away from hot surfaces.
If rubber lines were so unsafe, why are they used on
lawnmowers, ATV's, snowmobiles, etc, etc. If a person
uses their brain and plans out how the line will go,
you will have no problem. Just my 1/2 cent.

Del
(69 Olds with rubber fuel line)

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 08:43:51 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)

...if I can get Joe Padavano to stop laughing at me long enough for me to think
straight.......(I was the one who posted the "top ten reasons to own a
small-block" on the list a while ago).
______

Another convert sees the light...  ;-)

Actually, the mantra on motor mounts is:  keep the frame and rubber mounts
together as a matched set.  For example, if your car has 350 frame mounts, use
the 350 motor mounts _FOR_THAT_CHASSIS_ (on whatever Olds motor you're swapping
in) and the swap is a bolt-in.

============

Swapping a 403 in place of a 350 is straightforward, isn't it? Or are
there weird problems that I don't know about even with this swap?
______

The 350 and 403 are externally identical.  There are some internal funnies, 
like
the larger diameter head bolts, but that won't effect a complete swap.  I'd
still like to do the killer 403 buildup.  On paper this motor should be a
screamer...  Plus, it obviously meets the 400 cu in minimum displacement
criteria.

That will have to be the motor of choice if I ever get a 64 442 (the only 64-72
that I haven't owned) just so it looks correct externally.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 08:47:19 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)

...I can't figure out why the tranny
crossmember sits about an inch or two to far back for the holes to line up
with the holes in the frame. Have any ideas on that. Jim
_______

Did you reuse your old tranny, or did you swap a TH400 for the original TH350?
If you swapped trannies, then the TH400 is obviously longer.  If not, then 
check
which set of tapped holes in the block you used to attach the motor mounts.
There are two possible motor mount locations on the block, the forward position
used on the full size cars and the rear position used on the A-body cars.  If
you have an A-body and bolted the motor mounts to the forward position, that
would cause your crossmember problem.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 08:49:24 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?

On my 85, the lockout pin acts on the throttle shaft...
________

Really?  You've travelled into that post-1972 twilight zone where I have very
little experience.  I'll certainly file that for future reference.  Thanks.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 08:55:45 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: airfilter 3 inch thk versus 4inch thk?

Had a guy at work today tell me I might put too much air in the carb if I put
on a thicker air filter....
_________

Does the car run with the air cleaner removed?

I thought so.

Thus the "too much air" is a fallacy.  Now, it _is_ possible that you may want
to richen up the jetting of the carb to take advantage of that additional
airflow, but removing the restriction of an air filter will not "put too much
air in the carb".

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 09:00:14 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)

>There are two possible motor mount locations on the block, the forward
position
>used on the full size cars and the rear position used on the A-body cars.  If
>you have an A-body and bolted the motor mounts to the forward position, that
>would cause your crossmember problem.
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30
>



I don't know alot about the full size Olds, but the 455 I have came from a
full size and the mounts were on the rear position. The compact Omega uses
the forward mount position. 
Just my observation.

Omega Man
2-'74 Omegas 455

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 09:06:37 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)

I don't know alot about the full size Olds, but the 455 I have came from a
full size and the mounts were on the rear position. The compact Omega uses
the forward mount position.
Just my observation....
________

Might be an earlier application that the one your 455 came out of.  I'm pretty
sure the mid-60s cars used the forward location, as I doubt the factory would
have gone through the trouble of casting the bosses in the block unless they
needed them.  I'll check when I get home.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 09:20:03 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)

Could be. Mine came from a 72 Delta 88. Had those funky inch thick spacers
on the pass-side mount. I think a couple other guys chimed in and said
theirs did too. I agree the factory must have had a reason to cast them
that way. So they had to have been used in something. 

Omega Man
2-'74 Omegas





>
>Might be an earlier application that the one your 455 came out of.  I'm
pretty
>sure the mid-60s cars used the forward location, as I doubt the factory would
>have gone through the trouble of casting the bosses in the block unless they
>needed them.  I'll check when I get home.
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 08:21:02 -0500
From: "Roger Hitson" <hitson@i1.net>
Subject: Re: starter solenoid & motor  (was: my olds won't start)

John, 

Have to agree with what has already been said here. Few additional thoughts:

On my 350, timing seems a critical factor in hot start. A few degrees too much 
advance & rrrrrrrrrrr   rrrrrr   rrrr rr r .....

I am also using a heat shield on my starter.

If none of this works, consider a remote solenoid.

High torque starters are available for relatively high $$, and usually you 
don't really need one.

roger

*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********

On 4/19/99, at 5:00 PM, Ben wrote: 

>A few tricks I have learned with starting a HOT olds 400 in 120+ degree
>weather in SW AZ. <snipped lots of good advice>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 10:46:21 -0700
From: Kenneth L Kayser <kkayser@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: fuel lines

Is there any reason not to use copper tubing for fuel lines.  It does
not rust and is more resistant to fatigue than aluminum.  It is easier
to work with than steel or aluminum.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 12:00:12 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: fuel lines

It Corrodes

Omega Man



At 10:46 AM 4/20/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Is there any reason not to use copper tubing for fuel lines.  It does
>not rust and is more resistant to fatigue than aluminum.  It is easier
>to work with than steel or aluminum.
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 11:08:45 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: fuel lines

> >Is there any reason not to use copper tubing for fuel lines.  It does
> >not rust and is more resistant to fatigue than aluminum.  It is easier
> >to work with than steel or aluminum.
<snip>

<snip>
> It Corrodes
<snip>

I don't share this. Copper will corrode only on the surface and then stop 
after having a layer of oxydized material on top. Oxydation does not go 
inside. This is the same with aluminium! As soon as Aluminium hits 
atmosphere it will have a layer of AL Oxide on it. 

They make copper brake lines on european cars!

Regards, George

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 12:22:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: Mike Bubb <mikeb@unidial.com>
Subject: Idiot Lights Not Working

When my ignition is on, none of my idiot lights come on.  However, when I
put the switch in the accessory position, my generator light comes on.
I've never seen the others light up, ever.

Can someone help me out and give me some troubleshooting tips?  

TIA,
Mike

70 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 09:25:23 -0700
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re: 1978 Cutlass Wandering?

>Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 19:06:54 -0500
>From: Matthew Bremmer <bremmer@sgi.com>
>Subject: 1978 Cutlass Wandering?

>Ok list I have been working on a bit of a problem for months on my 1978
>Olds Cutlass.   I should probably have bothered the experts on this
>list, but oh well... My problem basically is that the car seems to
>wander down the street.  I don't think she dog tracks like the frame is
>bent because I have asked some friends when they followed me if they saw
>this...  Some information as to history of this car originally had a V6
>in it and the owner put a V8 305 in her.  But didn't change out the
>springs so this blew out the upper and lower ball joints.  So I had the
>upper and lower ball joints and the springs replaced in the front/rear.
>Next I changed out the front wheel bearings,tie rods, steering linkage,
>and steering gear.  The car still wanders.  The shocks in the rear were
>replaced,but the shocks in the front haven't been yet.  I plan on
>changing out the shocks in the front end and then taking it somewhere
>else to have it aligned.  I will let you know the drifting doesn't seem
>one sided as pulling to one side all the time and it seems to rear its'
>evil head more in windy weather..  So unsure of what would be causing
>this failure.  I took it to my mechanic back home and he couldn't find
>anything wrong.  He said the bushings seemed good and possibly it could
>be the tires because I had a set of generals on the front and some
>whatevers on the rear.  So instead of t-shooting because I am getting
>really annoyed by this I went to sears and bought four Goodyear's and
>still have my problem.  Well I am running out of ideas as to the cause
>of this crap and I am looking for some suggestions...Thanks in advance
>for your responses...

>Matt

>P.S.->I did change out the wheel bearings in the front and rear of the
vehicle as well..

Matt,
	It sounds as though you've done some good investigating for the
source of your wandering problem.  I can only suggest trying different tire
pressures.  I have found that tire jockeys will inflate the tires to their
maximum allowable/suggested PSI and this has caused my car to fell like it
was going down the road on marshmellows.  It gave sort of a soft and
wandering ride.  I reduced the PSI to 28 and the car felt fine.

I hope this helps, let us know how you make out.

Steve Reed
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 12:32:35 -0400
From: Bill Vaitkunas <woodstock@mindspring.net>
Subject: Re: Idiot Lights Not Working

Well,...  maybe you need what we once sent a guy's girlfriend out to the 
auto-parts store to get...

....."automotive light fluid".....


......I don't think i ever laughed so damn hard as when she got back.....



At 12:22 PM 4/20/99 -0400, you wrote:

>When my ignition is on, none of my idiot lights come on.  However, when I

>put the switch in the accessory position, my generator light comes on.

>I've never seen the others light up, ever.

>

>Can someone help me out and give me some troubleshooting tips?  

>

>TIA,

>Mike

>

>70 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

>

>

<center>   Bill Vai-

support@mindspring.net (please direct support queries to this address)

woodstock@mindspring.net (my personal e-mail address)

- ---------------------------------------------

Mindspring Technical Support  -  Harrisburg, Pa

To contact Mindspring support, use the following numbers:

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1-800-719-4660  -  (Nationally)

- ---------------------------------------------

You can also get help on-line at the following web page address:

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- ---------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 10:04:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Changed my rear suspension

 I'm reusing the original bushings.  As far as the alignment, I'm
getting new tires put on as well, so I'll get t aligned then.  Thanks
for the advice anyway tho.

Stefan
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
70Cutlass@Beer.com

- --- gjcouse <gjcouse@francomm.com> wrote:
> Don't forget to have the front end aligned after the spring change.
> Are you
> changing bushings too or reusing the original?  Either way the front
> end
> needs checking after the change. Gary....
> 
> -----Regards,
> 
> Gary J. Couse
> Couse Custom's
> 
> ICQ# 5209322
> gjcouse@francomm.com
> gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com
>
_________________________________________________________
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Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 10:05:02 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Idiot Lights Not Working

> When my ignition is on, none of my idiot lights come on.
> However,  when I put the switch in the accessory position,
> my generator light comes on. I've never seen the others
> light up, ever.

You should at least see the oil pressure glow when the ignition is on 
but the engine is off; if you don't, I'd check for a bad pressure 
warning switch: Leave the ignition on, unplug the wire from the switch 
on the engine, and ground the wire. If the bulb comes on, the sending 
unit (switch) is bad; if the bulb stays out, the bulb in the dash is 
bad.

For the temperature warning, this should come on as you twist the key 
to the START position. Then check the wiring to the temperature switch 
on the engine by grounding its wire while the ignition is on; the 
light should again come on. If it only works while twisting the key to 
START, perhaps you have never overheated the engine.  :-)  If it only 
works when you ground its wire on the engine, you may have a bad 
ignition switch which isn't triggering the bulb test properly while 
starting. To test the temperature warning switch itself you'd need to 
heat it.

Frankly, if none of your idiot lights have ever worked, I'd start to 
wonder about the wiring in the dash, especially whether power is 
reaching the warning lamps to begin with (since current flows _from_ 
the dash lamps _to_ the engine, not the other way around; your 
switches screwed into the engine block function as grounds). I'm 
pretty sure the glowing generator light is on its own circuit and 
isn't related to your problems with the other two. Hey, maybe your 
bulbs just burned out; if they're original, they _are_ 29 years old, 
after all...

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 14:19:10 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: rubber fuel-lines a no-no...(was fuel pump to carb line)

I also tried the lazy way of using rubber as a fuel line. What I didn't know 
was that rubber hose does not allow the heat to dissipate. I got that 
gurgling sound and the car was hard to start when hot. I soon saw tiny cracks 
on the outside covering of the hose, and that was it. My lazy days were over. 
I replaced it with a steel fuel line and lived happily ever after.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 13:53:40 -0500
From: Kris Nicely <Kris.Nicely@lmco.com>
Subject: RE: Aurora transmission

According to the service manual, the "power" mode selector just affects
the shift points (speed) at medium throttle.  Per my experience, it does
not affect the shift feel at all.  It also has no affect at light or
full throttle.  So what's the point?

There is a table in the service manual that shows shift points.  I could
email it to you if you are interested.

I would also like to be able to talk to an Olds technician.  Please let
me know if you find one.  I have some questions about my Aurora as well.

Kris Nicely

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 15:21:44 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: olds list

subscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 15:37:47 EDT
From: Sxolds455@aol.com
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter.

Call MR. Gasket Directly and they can help you out, Mr. Gasket bought Hurst 
and are now rebuilding the shifter, and yes that means all factory hurst 
shifter's. Good luck and happy Oldmobiling.
Michael

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 12:53:00 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Shifter.

> Call MR. Gasket Directly and they can help you out, Mr. Gasket
> bought Hurst and are now rebuilding the shifter, and yes that
> means all factory Hurst shifters. Good luck and happy Oldsmobiling.

On the web, check out http://www.mrgasket.com/fat.htm. Follow the 
links for Hurst shifters and you'll get to a page about rebuilding 
services.

- -- Andy

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 15:12:15 -0500
From: Stephen Hoover <shang@connect.net>
Subject: My first Big Block

Well the car is finally running....again. After 3 attempts (and
listening to people I *thought* I could trust) I have finally just built
the motor all on my own (the way I have built all my other motors) and I
have a strong running 455 at last.

This is my first big block of any breed. In HS and up until now, I have
always been in small block 350 or less land. What can I say about the
big block? Harder to install and work on in the car yes, but Good LORD!!
the thing pulls likes it's going to the moon! 

Here's my combo for anyone interested. 1972 455 (origin unknown, I
bought it from a guy in Houston who wanted to get rid of it) one G and
one Ga head (I know, I know) ported both intake and exhaust. Factory
1968-9 400 intake, Hedman Headers (NEVER again) TRW Forged Pistons, with
the 14.7cc dish, rated at 10.5:1 with a 75cc chamber head (why any
manufacturer would rate an Olds piston at 75cc's is beyond me) Holley
750 dbl pumper, and the Comp Cams 280H Magnum cam with the Comp Cams
adjustable valve train. The cam has 230 deg @ .050 lift (very similar to
the W-31 cam) and it is remarkably mild in the 455. I had a 270H (one
cam smaller 224 deg @ .050) and it was much more radical in the small
block than this cam is in the big block. 3.73's with a TH-2004R.

I have not run the quarter yet, but I know I am in the low 13's for
sure.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 15:29:56 -0500
From: tonwald@eta.k12.mn.us (Tony Waldner)
Subject: Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)

_______
>
>Might be an earlier application that the one your 455 came out of.  I'm pretty
>sure the mid-60s cars used the forward location, as I doubt the factory would
>have gone through the trouble of casting the bosses in the block unless they
>needed them.  I'll check when I get home.
>
>Joe Padavano




Okay Joe....

After all of the valuable information that you have provided me with,  I
can finally repay the favors.

Being a former B-body junkie, before I got bit by the A-body bug, I was
always studying up on big car info, besides owning and working on tons of
them.  1965-70 full size cars used a unique mount in the front mounting
holes. It used a single stud through the frame crossmember rather than the
frame pad/horizontal bolt that we see in A-bodies and later B/C bodies.
When you remove a engine from a '65-'70 full size, there will be no frame
pad!  it is integral with the mount.

In 1971, GM completely re-designed the B/C body platform. besides
engines,trannies, and little things like heater motors and bulbs, virtually
nothing interchanges from a '65-'70 model to a '71-'76 full size.  The
motor mounts used in '71 to '76 full size cars were now made like the
earlier A-body mounts.  They were also moved back due to the new frames.
W/Z manifolds work perfectly in '71-76 cars too, whereas they will not work
in a '65-'70 car. (Have you ever noticed that major header companies like
Hooker actually list headers to fit '71-76 Delta 88's? That is because they
share motor mount and exhaust clearance deminsions with A-bodies.)

 Engineers discovered a vibration problem encountered in the new 1971 full
size car.  They found by moving the passenger side mount out a little bit,
this problem vibration stoped. 1972 sales brocures on full size cars boast
about relocated engine mounts for even more quiet operation than last years
models. (My dad ordered a 72 Delta Royale right from Lansing that year)  I
do not know about A-body mount location for '72, but this is the reason for
all of the talk about offset mounts when new 455 owners get their new big
block out of a '72 donor car. Just toss the bolts and shims, use short
bolts with the mount against the block, and it will drop right into your
A-body with no trouble at all. (Been there, done that, got the t-shirt)

For some strange reason, 1973 to 76 full size motor mounts were not offset!
They must have cured that drive train vibration through some other means.
'76 was the last year for the biggest of the B/C body platform.  We all
know that '77 was the first year that the downsized Delta and 98's came
along. These cars had even more in common with A-bodies. They were acually
built on the '73-'77 A-body frame!

Hope this helps clear up the motor mount delima!

Tony

70 442 W-30
70 442 W-30 convert
70 Toro GT W-34
65 Jetstar 88 w/4-speed
84 Hurst/Olds
85 Cutlass Salon 455 Drag Racer
92 Seville STS

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 15:35:30 -0500
From: "Michael Kantowski" <mkantowski@mcguireng.com>
Subject: '77 Cutlass for sale

Well, I've decided to sell my '77 Cutlass.  Car is located in Chicago.  It
has 44,000 original miles on the engine, but the body is quite rough.  It is
not a bad daily driver if anything.  Engine is extremley strong, and with a
little TLC it'll be a monster.  I have a replacement rear end, because I
think the rear on the car is going.  I was going to replace that thing, but
I am not a mechanic, and I don't want to hassle.  I'm moving to L.A. in two
weeks, and I want to get rid of the car.  I will part it out if no one wants
the whole thing.

GOOD PARTS:

ENGINE - OLDS 350, air, cruise works...
TIRES - JUST BOUGHT 'EM A FEW MONTHS AGO.  THEY ARE GENERALS.
TRANS - TH350
VINYL TOP - GREEN AND IN GREAT SHAPE
FENDERS
HOOD
FRONT BUMPER

SOME INTERIOR PIECES...

If anyone is interested, you can come see the car, or make an offer for the
parts.  Maybe we can make a deal

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 16:00:49 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Experience with Tamraz's

Hi Friends:

I went thru my pile of olds catalogs and I found a cutlass/442 catalog 
from TAMRAZ'S. They are located in Chicago, have a great selection of 
parts with half way decent prices but promise to meet any price of the 
competitors. 

Does anybody have experience with them? Do they really meet the price of 
the competitor and how do you have to bring proof of the lower price?

I want to get a fairly big order of things soon and I was thinking that 
buying with them would be convenient, because I would not have to shop 
all catalogs, just give them the lowest prices and they will have to meet 
them...

TIA, George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 16:02:03 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Where to get "turkey-tray" intake gasket

Well, the Subject line says it all. I need a tin style turkey tray gasket 
for my intake on a 350 (1968). Who sells them?

Regards, George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 17:27:35 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Where to get "turkey-tray" intake gasket

Well, the Subject line says it all. I need a tin style turkey tray gasket
for my intake on a 350 (1968). Who sells them?
_________

Fel-Pro makes them.  Get one at any auto parts store.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 14:35:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Where to get "turkey-tray" intake gasket

Any auto store should have them. I could find one for
my 1970 Olds 350 from a local parts store.

- --- George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu> wrote:
> 
> Well, the Subject line says it all. I need a tin
> style turkey tray gasket 
> for my intake on a 350 (1968). Who sells them?
> 
> Regards, George
> 
>
- --------------------------------------------------------------
> '68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
>
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
>
- --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> 

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
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------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1914
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