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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1963


oldsmobile-digest        Tuesday, May 18 1999        Volume 01 : Number 1963



Re: Misc. and What went wrong?
Jets and Metering rod for 403
signing off
RE: Plastic interior panel cleaning
Great Weekend Continued
headlight problem
Re: Great Weekend Continued
Re: headlight problem
electronics in cars
steering grinding noise
455 Exhaust manifolds
weekend
Oldsmobile Museum address
Re: Oldsmobile Museum address
Re: Norwalk track
Re: new to oldsmobile
Re: OCC National
Mondello nationals
Re: OCC National
Re: rattling noise 442
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1962
More '71 CS Chrome & body  questions 
Re: OCC National
More '71 CS Chrome & body  questions 
Re: Pulling a PS Pulley ??
Booster
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1961
Re: Misc. and What went wrong?
Re: Booster
Re: Spark plug wire lenght and other questions.
Re: Booster
Re: Power Window Blues
Re: 1987 442
Re: Pulling a PS Pulley ??
Re: Norwalk track
Re: Norwalk track
Re: electronics in cars
Re: headlight problem
Re: 455 Exhaust manifolds
Taillight problem solved
Re: High RPM stall question
Rocket Science Parts &c. 5/99 
Re: Intro, items available
Misc, HD, SUBJECT, MIME...
Subject lines, mime
Stainless Studs
Re: Stainless Studs
Re: Great Weekend Continued
65-70 Big Car Suspension

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 14:51:52 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Misc. and What went wrong?

Sorry off topic.
Where did he get the Quake III beta at?  The beta supports open gl!!?  I
must have this!
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <KarlAunan@aol.com>
To: <Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 17, 1999 1:33 PM
Subject: Misc. and What went wrong?


> Hi gang!
>
> If anyone was addressing us, apologies are necessary.
> Karl installed new OpenGL drivers to run the new Quake3 test beta and his
> mouse pointer disapeared.
>
> Makes browsing Email via AOL kinda tough.
>
> So, until the prob is rectified, few pithy idioms from here.
>
> Very glad to see Chris Witt back.
> Too bad karl was unable to read any of his posts.
> (He'll learn how someday....)
>
> And.....
> Ready?
> [hallucination on!]
> Vis-a-vis swapping points and tuning without a timing light.
>
> Paul, did you at any time sheck dwell on the old points and readjust to
get
> 30' dwell.
>
> Karl did this twice before his points swap.
> Both times adjusted dwell from 25 back to 30.
> Karl did this (at least) twice before points swap.
>
> Dwell is set for worn points.
> Swap on new points.
> Idle just sucks.
> Karl believes your final timing is too far advanced due to prior dwell
> adjustment.
> This jibes with the poor idle.
> Ignition too soon and sometimes resulting in pseudo-missing.
> This is why SOM was pinging like crazy.
>
> No-timing-light Karl the Confused had his engine analyser out and was
> swapping cap and rotor the proper way (hold caps in close proximity, wire
off
> old cap, wire on new cap, wire off old cap, wire on new cap, can't go
> wrong!).
> Start engine.
> Listens hard as not sure engine running. Engine IS running so gets out and
> hooks up analyser.
> Set dwell to 30.
> Nope. Not it.
> 29' with screwdriver out.
> Now 30.
> Idle is a bit fast though.....
> See, RPM shows over 800 on the meter.
> So, 2GC slow idle screw adjustment.....yeilds no RPM change?
> DOH!
> Set the Analyser to RPM for 8 cylinder.
> RPM over 1000.
> Huh?
> That's just too fast.
> Dont wanna fuss too much here as not got timing light, and wanna set final
> timing by hand so drivable with no ping.
> So, realising that proper final timing should be at a point where slow ide
> adjustment should allow RPM values around 600 RPM, Karl adjusts slow idle
> screw so that throttle plates are slightly open.
> Then, distributor is rotated anticlockwise (um.... that's an analog clock,
> not digital!) until RPM indicator dips below 600.
> Then, voila!
> Adjust slow idle slightly, and 600 RPM.
> Drive around block with an ear to WOT for pingy activity, and hear none.
> Highway activities today show same lack of ping.
>
> Not bad Karl.
>
> But you're still an extremely silly person.
>
> SOM
>
> &KA  <-----Ecky, ecky, ecky, ecky, ptang! Rumboygen! Grauben!
>
>
> (ni!)
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 13:56:39 -0500
From: "Ian M. C. Dixon" <iand@sbrc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Jets and Metering rod for 403

Hey List!

What were the stock jets and metering rods on a 1977-1979 403 
from a 98?

How about the same for the engines planted into Firebirds of the 
same era?

TIA

Ian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 13:59:02 -0500
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: signing off

Hey everybody,

Just thought I'd let you all know that I'm going to be signing off the
list tomorrow, for a while. I've fallen way behind on reading your posts
and am pretty busy trying to get my car on the track in the next couple
of weeks.
Thanks for all your help and sharing all of your supreme knowledge. You
probably won't even know I'm gone since I have been more of a listener
than a talker but you all will be missed.
If anyone needs to get a hold of me for any reason my feel free to
e-mail me or ICQ.

Thanks again and hopefully I'll be back in a couple of weeks.

Shane Gibreal
'67 Cutlass convertible
'67 C/S drag car w/ 730 hp

ICQ #36909992.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 12:08:03 -0700
From: andrewm@edify.com
Subject: RE: Plastic interior panel cleaning

There recently was a "How-to" article in the last Car Craft about
coloring interior panels.   There are supplier references, etc. that
might be helpful.  I'll post the article date tonight when I get home
from my "Oldsmobile distraction" (i.e. work), unless someone has the
date?

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Gene Gilpin
Sent: Monday, May 17, 1999 12:22 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Plastic interior panel cleaning


Hey all.
I'm getting prepared to start cleaning and prepping my plastic side
and
trim panels for a color change. Right now they are faded green and
filthy.
I'm changing the interior to black. What is a good product for
cleaning and
prepping these things? Can they just be painted or is there a special
dye I
should get for coloring them? TIA

BTW, Anyone planning on attending the 3rd Annual Big M Bash in
Churchville,
MD on the 28-30?

Omega Man
'74 Omega S 455/auto
'74 Omega 455/4sp (someday)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 15:10:35 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Great Weekend Continued

Just an update if anyone is interested.  The show in Princeton NJ on Sunday 
was very good.  Lots of cars.  My favorite was a Pro Street 54 Nash 
Metropolitan stuffed with a Big Block Che*y and tubbed rear end.  Some of you 
guys on the list might not know what they looked liked but think of a Mazda 
Miata only smaller.  

They had numerous classes at the show so it ended up that I got a first place 
trophy for restored 65 to 69 (I think, the trophy did not list any class).  
Oh well what ever, It sure was a real good weekend.  My first 2 cars shows 
and 2 trophies.  

I hope everybody else had a good one too.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 10:07:10 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: headlight problem

When I put on my headlights, the right headlight doesn't work. When I hit the 
dimmer switch, all four work. Is the problem the dimmer switch?
Tia
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course)
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On Mon, 17 May 1999 Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:
> Is it possible to use a right-angle drill adapter to get sufficient access?

Appears to have 3"-4" of clearance there, so I suppose so... but I've had
it. This is going to the shop as soon as I gather up enough $$$ and this
thing is going to be fixed once and for all and (hopefully) for good.
Expensive I know but I just can't take it chuggin' all the time any more.
Damn thing sounds just awful.

Greg Beaulieu    ab34

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 15:23:06 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Great Weekend Continued

At 03:10 PM 5/17/99 EDT, you wrote:
>Just an update if anyone is interested.  The show in Princeton NJ on Sunday 
>was very good.  Lots of cars.  My favorite was a Pro Street 54 Nash 
>Metropolitan stuffed with a Big Block Che*y and tubbed rear end.  Some of
you 
>guys on the list might not know what they looked liked but think of a Mazda 
>Miata only smaller.  


Ha ha that's awesome. They kind of resemble a cast iron bathtub turn upside
down with a roof and windshield. Bet that one would be a fun ride:)

Omega Man

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 15:54:05 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: headlight problem

Thanks Andy, Joe, The General--
It was the bulb.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 12:50 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: electronics in cars

Cliff Simpson wrote:
<snipped>

>I hate wimpy electronics in cars they should have to use "Mil
>spec" components, seal them properly, and isolate them.  Oh well, I 
>can paint the engine and finish assembling it and then maybe next 
>weekend I can bring the car home.
______________________________

I think the only transistors in my '72 Supreme are in the radio - I'm 
still running points at this time. Not sure if the voltage regulator 
is the stock vibratory one or a transistorized replacement. Anyhoo, 
wonder what the average transistor count for a new car is? Let's see, 
at least a million per microprocessor, usually at least half-a-dozen 
microprocessors, plus a couple of transistors per bit in all those 
kilobytes of RAM; is ten million transistors per car a good ballpark 
guess?  Downright scary!

Gone are the days when "as many as the hairs in your head" was an 
impressive number, today "as many as the transistors in your computer" 
is much more impressive!


- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 16:01:27 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: steering grinding noise

Steering wheel has a grinding noise when it turns. Steering gear is less than 
a year old, no leaks, fluid full. There is a rubber boot on the steering 
column next to the firewall. Does this need to be lubed? Sounds like it may 
be coming from inside the column. Anybody ever have these symptoms before? 
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course)

 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 16:11:50 EDT
From: Harrell17@aol.com
Subject: 455 Exhaust manifolds

I'm looking for a set of 455 manifolds to fit in a 72 Cutlass Conv.. I have 
been told the "W-Z" manifolds are what I need. Can anyone tell me if that is 
correct and where I might find any? The ones on it now are out of a 72 Ninety 
Eight and they don't seem to line up quite right, especially on the drivers 
side. Any help would be appreciated.  Jim

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 14:45:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: weekend

  I went to watch the races at the Riverside Park Speedway in Agawam,
MA Sunday night.  They had 8 cyl enduros, 4 cyl enduros, and my
favorite the 8cyl figure 8.  Lots of destruction.  Sad point of the
night was when they had the destruction derby and some guy entered a
71-72 cutlass!  It was doing well untill there were only 3 cars left
and some guy in a hearse backed into the rear of the cutlass and either
snapped the axel or the drive shaft.  I just hope it wasn't a 442 or a
W car.  It looked fairly decent before the event.

Stefan
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
70Cutlass@Beer.com
_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 17:47:45 EDT
From: Old1970442@aol.com
Subject: Oldsmobile Museum address

Does anyone know the address to the Oldsmobile Museum? 
Also can the museum tell me anything about my car?

Heath
1970 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 15:05:55 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Museum address

>Does anyone know the address to the Oldsmobile Museum?

Ransom E. Olds History Museum? Try:
http://www.reolds.com/index.html

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 18:21:53 -0400
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Re: Norwalk track

Good show rob Kick some but .  Butch

RPTW32@aol.com wrote:

> Had a blast at Norwalk track this weekend at the FLOWMASTER INVITATIONAL.
> Drove 115 miles down there Fri night and was able to get 7 passes in for
> test/tune.
> Pulled the power steering belt and 1st. pass 11.89 /113.8 mph.  Best pass of
> weekend was 11.72 /115 mph. thru full exhaust on DOT tire. Had em all
> scratching their heads.  Did identify that full 3" exhaust w/ 2 chamber
> flowmasters do perform as good as open headers as I uncorked er' for the
> first time and ran 11.73 . Buttoned back up and ran the 11.72. Smilin ever
> since.  Even made enough in round money to pay for the weekend.   What a
> country !!!
>
> Rob Thomas
> 69 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 16:25:06 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: new to oldsmobile

markss wrote:
> 
> I am new the the world of olsdmobile. I have always been a GM man,
> especially a chevy guy. I owned a 1980 Z28 and a !981 Monte Carlo. Now I am
> the proud owner of a 1979 Delta 88 Royale. I hope there is someone out there
> that can decode my VIN number. Here it goes:
> 3N69R9M105059. Hopefully someone out there can give me a hand.

Drew's VIN decoder says:
3=Oldsmobile
N=(6400) Delta 88 Royale
69=4 Door Town Sedan (Pillar)
R=Olds 350
9=1979
M=Lansing, MI
105059=unique six digit number

HTH,
- -- 

Cliff "don't know nuttin about them new fangled cars" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 18:26:32 EDT
From: DrkSole96@aol.com
Subject: Re: OCC National

In a message dated 5/16/99 9:04:41 PM Central Daylight Time, 
hurst455@webtv.net writes:

<< 
   Anyone going to be at the OCC meet this coming Saturday in Milwaukee?
 
 Corey Putnam
 75 H/O W-30(my way)
 87 Regal w/Olds 455
 H/OCA #0915A
 OCC #0208
 OCA #031264
 http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930
 
  >>
Well, I'm definetly going to try.  I'm still debating on wether or not my 
Cutlass will make the trip or not.  Drivetrain's all new except for the motor 
which has 112k on it.  Does have a new timing chain though.  
Donovan Moser
73 Cutlass Supreme
DrkSole96@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 18:27:54 -0400
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Mondello nationals

Is any from the list plan on going .  I would like to go myself if i can
make time arround work. Its oct. 16-17 in Englishtown, NJ
Butch

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 18:29:33 -0400
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Re: OCC National

Man you northern guys are sure lucky to have so many events in the north.   
Butch

DrkSole96@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 5/16/99 9:04:41 PM Central Daylight Time,
> hurst455@webtv.net writes:
>
> <<
>    Anyone going to be at the OCC meet this coming Saturday in Milwaukee?
>
>  Corey Putnam
>  75 H/O W-30(my way)
>  87 Regal w/Olds 455
>  H/OCA #0915A
>  OCC #0208
>  OCA #031264
>  http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930
>
>   >>
> Well, I'm definetly going to try.  I'm still debating on wether or not my
> Cutlass will make the trip or not.  Drivetrain's all new except for the motor
> which has 112k on it.  Does have a new timing chain though.
> Donovan Moser
> 73 Cutlass Supreme
> DrkSole96@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 16:32:24 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: rattling noise 442

"S.W. Kerkhoven" wrote:
> 
> I have a 1969 0ldsmobile 442 with the following problem. When i drive the 
car there comes a rattling noise from underneath the car. When i listen under 
the car the noise is located in the area where the transmission is attached to 
the motor. The noise can be discribed as a loose bodypate. I think the noise 
comes from the flywheelcover/flexplate which is cracked or something like that.

Possibly a dented torque convertor cover and it's hitting the convertor or
loose torque convertor to flexplate bolts.  Lots of other possibilities.

> Does anybody ever had the same problem or is it a known problem with older 
cutlass/442 cars?

Nope, not a known problem.

Hope this helps,
- -- 

Cliff "been there, rattled that" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 18:33:44 -0400
From: "Jim and Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1962

Churchville Md right?  What are the details?  What time does it start and
what kind of attendance does it draw?
Thanx.

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible  OCA# 031463
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
>
> BTW, Anyone planning on attending the 3rd Annual Big M Bash in
Churchville,
> MD on the 28-30?
>
> Omega Man
> '74 Omega S 455/auto
> '74 Omega 455/4sp (someday)
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 18:34:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: More '71 CS Chrome & body  questions 

Thanks for all the replies to my last set of body & trim questions... I
almost forgot about this stuff since I spend most of the time under the
hood.  A few more followups if I may:

1.  Supreme uses the shorter wheel well moldings, which only come down to
the wide chrome strip, correct?   The standard S moldings go all the way
down to the bottom of the wheel well.

2.  Which rocket emblem goes on the stone shield?  I've got a hollow
chrome one, and one where the "inside" of the rocket is solid and painted
black.  Both have the same measurements.

3.  Was a Oldsmobile script used on the trunk panel on CS cars?   I see in
the Year One (meaning their parts are good only for One Year.....) they
list one. I thought the CS used only the Oldsmobile spelled out in
individual letters.

4.  How do you attach "unassembled" repro door panels to your old door
panels? The factory ones look stapled somehow.

5.  Any experience with the repro moldings for the front of the grills?  

Side note, the body moldings really look good after hitting them with the
buffing wheel.  They can take a suprising amount of buffing without
removing the chrome - really!  The stainless pieces (door, door to front
wheel well) can be made to look like new, just go crazy with the buffer
and start with really course buffing compound.  This also applies for the
wheelwell moldings.

My buffer is nothing fancy - just a wheel bolted to a old 3450rpm motor.
Used white rouge on the diecast parts, then some Noxon to remove any of
the leftover buffing compound.   Turned a bunch of trashcan-ready pieces
into darn near show quality stuff.

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    -->   bob@tecmark.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 17:34:59 -0500 (EST)
From: hurst455@webtv.net (Corey Putnam)
Subject: Re: OCC National

  It makes up for all the cold weather(kind of)

Corey Putnam
75 H/O W-30(my way)
87 Regal w/Olds 455
H/OCA #0915A
OCC #0208
OCA #031264
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 18:35:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: More '71 CS Chrome & body  questions 

Thanks for all the replies to my last set of body & trim questions... I
almost forgot about this stuff since I spend most of the time under the
hood.  A few more followups if I may:

1.  Supreme uses the shorter wheel well moldings, which only come down to
the wide chrome strip, correct?   The standard S moldings go all the way
down to the bottom of the wheel well.

2.  Which rocket emblem goes on the stone shield?  I've got a hollow
chrome one, and one where the "inside" of the rocket is solid and painted
black.  Both have the same measurements.

3.  Was a Oldsmobile script used on the trunk panel on CS cars?   I see in
the Year One (meaning their parts are good only for One Year.....) they
list one. I thought the CS used only the Oldsmobile spelled out in
individual letters.

4.  How do you attach "unassembled" repro door panels to your old door
panels? The factory ones look stapled somehow.

5.  Any experience with the repro moldings for the front of the grills?  

Side note, the body moldings really look good after hitting them with the
buffing wheel.  They can take a suprising amount of buffing without
removing the chrome - really!  The stainless pieces (door, door to front
wheel well) can be made to look like new, just go crazy with the buffer
and start with really course buffing compound.  This also applies for the
wheelwell moldings.

My buffer is nothing fancy - just a wheel bolted to a old 3450rpm motor.
Used white rouge on the diecast parts, then some Noxon to remove any of
the leftover buffing compound.   Turned a bunch of trashcan-ready pieces
into darn near show quality stuff.

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    -->   bob@tecmark.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 19:19:28 -0400
From: "mrhell" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Pulling a PS Pulley ??

<is there an easy way to pull off a power steering pulley- got to stop a
leak>>.


If your pump is leaking you may not have to take off the pulley.  '69 may be
different, but on my '71, the large O ring between the pump and reservoir
was leaking.  Took a long shot and asked the guy at Murray's...they not only
made a rebuild kit, but they had it IN STOCK!  WOW!  and only $9.

The pump was very easy to rebuild and I left my pulley on.  Just thought I'd
let you know.

RC Hellebuyck  -  OCA #30213
1971 4-4-2 convt
See my car and over 40 other Olds' at:
http://home.sprynet.com/~mrhell/oakbud.htm


- -----Original Message-----
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, May 17, 1999 11:22 AM
Subject: Re: Pulling a PS Pulley ??


>
>is there an easy way to pull off a power steering pulley- got to stop
>a leak --
>
>Al Varhus
>Columbus, Ohio
>http://www.infinet.com/~avar
>http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
>Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
>  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
>  Gem City Rockets
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 19:37:40 -0400
From: "Wayne Schwartz" <wschwart@cgocable.net>
Subject: Booster

Where can I get a new Moraine PB booster for a 70 Cutlass with power discs.
I tried Pep Boys on the weekend.  They listed the master cylinder but not
the booster.  Also tried other local supply houses.  I don't wan't the
downtime associated with getting my old unit rebuilt.  My local GM dealer
wasn't interested in giving me the time of day....not unusual since his
staff is not of much help to restorers.  I know I've seen previous mail on
this subject.

Wayne Schwartz

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 19:47:26 EDT
From: Amuscle@aol.com
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1961

please unsubscribe me from the olds digest   thank you    j miller

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 21:15:38 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Misc. and What went wrong?

KarlAunan@aol.com wrote:

> Paul, did you at any time sheck dwell on the old points and readjust to get
> 30' dwell.

No, Paul did not check the dwell with the old points in, though he
thinks maybe he should have before he removed them.  He'll know better
next time.  Paul will check the dwell and timing settings before any
future attempts at tune ups.  Guess you need to know where you are
before you can figure out where you're going.
 
> Karl believes your final timing is too far advanced due to prior dwell
> adjustment.

Paul checked his service records today from when the shop set the
dwell/timing back in '96 after he couldn't properly do it himself. 
(Paul's just not gifted in this area.)  New points were set at a dwell
of 30 and timing at 5.  Evidently this wasn't satisfactory to the tech
who, according to his notes, set the timing to 8.5 and dwell to 15.  I
think this is how his notes read (he should have been a doctor). Paul
will check it again tomorrow (and make a photocopy).  Paul will post
these notes tomorrow.  Paul doesn't want to set the timing any lower
than 8.5.  Maybe the new points need to be down to 15, like the new
points were set last time?  Paul has a friend with a '57 who says his
dwell should be 32, but runs better at 21.  (This friend also told Paul
to use a 45S plug, not a 44S or 46S, claiming the 46Ss are making the
car run hotter.)  Paul has decided that he likes the current setup very
much (whatever it is), with the old parts and settings (plenty of power
- - no ping/knock - OK mileage).  Maybe someday Paul will get the ambition
to check the current dwell/timing settings and MAYBE re-tune - but not
'till after Nationals!

Paul thanks Karl for all his advice and will print it out and stick it
in his shop manual for future reference.

Thanks!

PH
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 21:19:49 EDT
From: LPBuilder@aol.com
Subject: Re: Booster

   I've had all kinds of good luck with autozone. I don't know where you are 
located
but if they are nearby I'd check there. Also the prices are fantastic. Hope 
this helps.

Drew A. Sonnentag
Bucks County PA.
70 Cutlass convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 21:24:12 EDT
From: Zitoj@aol.com
Subject: Re: Spark plug wire lenght and other questions.

>I found a 65 Cutlass in a yard and I want to get the passenger door
>for my 64 Cutlass.  it appears that the door can't come off unless
>the front fender is removed... is this true?

You can get the doors off by unbolting the hinge from the door.  Also if the 
fender has a bad case of "rusticus oldsicus" or the bottom bolts will 
actually turn as designed, you can then get the hinges off.  This works on a 
68 at least.  I just did it on a completely rotted out one.   You drop the 
doors and then push the bottoms of the fenders out and just use a regular 
ratchet or an off-set wrench.


Jim 
69 442 conv

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 21:28:50 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Booster

Wayne Schwartz wrote:
> 
> Where can I get a new Moraine PB booster for a 70 Cutlass with power discs.
> I tried Pep Boys on the weekend.  They listed the master cylinder but not
> the booster.  Also tried other local supply houses.  I don't wan't the
> downtime associated with getting my old unit rebuilt.  My local GM dealer
> wasn't interested in giving me the time of day....not unusual since his
> staff is not of much help to restorers.  I know I've seen previous mail on
> this subject.
> 
> Wayne Schwartz

I bought a booster/master cylinder combo a few months ago at the local
independent parts house.  I had the option of two separate pieces or the
combo.  Wish I could remember the name of the company that was on the
box.  They had it for me in approx 2 days.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 22:11:05 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Power Window Blues

>>My driver's side power window keeps comming off the track. Had it apart
>>twice already, gotta do it again today.
>
>Did you buy the car like that, or is this a problem that has only recently
>developed?


New problem in the last month.

>Do you have manuals?  It might not help (although detailed, the drawings
>are definately not photographs), but then again it couldn't hurt.


Got 'em. But the B-Body drawings are poor to say the least.


>Is the spacer at the top of the door (with the black fuzzy stuff that runs
>against the inside of the window) adjusted correctly (I can't describe
>"correctly", but I know it when I see it)?

Then come on over and we'll have a beer lookin' at it. Maybe a couple.
Funny you should mention the fuzzy thingie. I had it adjusted so the window
didn't rattle. Now I loosened it up a bit and the window seems to move more
smothly. Mebby I'll get lucky and it'll stay together this time.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 22:30:01 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: 1987 442

I have a 1987 Olds 442 and it doesn't want to stay running under 1800 RPM.
It's not a distributor cap/rotor or coil problem.  I think that we have
narrowed it down to the Fuel Mixture Solenoid. Can anyone tell me what this
part does and how it comes off?
- -----------------------------------------------

The computer controls mixture by cycling the Mixture Control Solenoid (MCS)
on & off. The main jet needles connect to it. Solenoid off, needles up, rich
mixture. Solenoid on, needles down, lean mixture.

The small 2-pin connector on the passenger side front of the carb connects
to the MCS. Gotta take the carb apart to see it or replace it. You'd want a
gasket kit (and rebuild/re-assembly/adjustment procedure!) in hand before
doing that. You can check it like so:

Do a self-test with the ECM by grounding the ALDL test pin (ignition on,
engine not running). You will hear a definite clicking noise comming from
the carb. If you do, the solenoid's prolly OK (although needles could be
stuck, or springs broke, etc).

No clicks indicates bad MCS or stuck mechanism. The solenoid coil should be
about 10-15 ohms. If it's toasted the ECM should set code 23 (open) or 54
(shorted).

drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 21:47:34 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Pulling a PS Pulley ??

hmmmmmm how do ya change the shaft seal with the pulley on there? just
kidding
most of the leaks in these things are from bent reservoir s and cut O
rings...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: mrhell <mrhell@sprynet.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 6:19 PM
Subject: Re: Pulling a PS Pulley ??


> <is there an easy way to pull off a power steering pulley- got to stop a
> leak>>.
>
>
> If your pump is leaking you may not have to take off the pulley.  '69 may
be
> different, but on my '71, the large O ring between the pump and reservoir
> was leaking.  Took a long shot and asked the guy at Murray's...they not
only
> made a rebuild kit, but they had it IN STOCK!  WOW!  and only $9.
>
> The pump was very easy to rebuild and I left my pulley on.  Just thought
I'd
> let you know.
>
> RC Hellebuyck  -  OCA #30213
> 1971 4-4-2 convt
> See my car and over 40 other Olds' at:
> http://home.sprynet.com/~mrhell/oakbud.htm
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Monday, May 17, 1999 11:22 AM
> Subject: Re: Pulling a PS Pulley ??
>
>
> >
> >is there an easy way to pull off a power steering pulley- got to stop
> >a leak --
> >
> >Al Varhus
> >Columbus, Ohio
> >http://www.infinet.com/~avar
> >http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
> >Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
> >  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
> >  Gem City Rockets
> >
> >
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 22:48:21 EDT
From: RPTW32@aol.com
Subject: Re: Norwalk track

In a message dated 5/17/99 2:35:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time, jlabay@tdin.com 
writes:

<< I saw your car there.  Damn did it run good :-) Do you race at Norwalk
 often?  >>

Not anywhere as much as I'd like to. Since I don't have trailer or truck have 
to drive down and back. Usually did the NMCA , Mondello (now Miller) Olds 
meet and that's usually it. If about 50 miles closer or single I'd be there a 
lot more often. 

What a track - Best in the country in my book.

Rgds,
Rob

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 22:51:27 EDT
From: RPTW32@aol.com
Subject: Re: Norwalk track

That we did... Love going against those big slicks , hood scoops , and gutted 
race cars and having to spot em and then wave going by.

Rob

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 22:51:25 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: electronics in cars

> Anyhoo,
>wonder what the average transistor count for a new car is? Let's see,
>at least a million per microprocessor....

FWIW (non-Olds digression), a standard Pentium micro has 5 million
transistors.

And retired Army Colonel Philip Corso claims in his book that transistor
technology came from reverse engineering the Roswell N.M. alien spacecraft.

You can blame them.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 23:02:42 -0400
From: "jackkopf" <jackkopf@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: headlight problem

  Bruce

  The problem is probably the bulb or a corroded connection
between
the fire wall and the head lights. The two outer bulbs have
two filaments
and the inners have one. Thus when the Hi-beams are on the
inner bulbs
and the second filament of the outer bulbs are energized.

JK
- -----Original Message-----
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: May 17, 1999 10:07 AM
Subject: headlight problem


>When I put on my headlights, the right headlight doesn't
work. When I hit the
>dimmer switch, all four work. Is the problem the dimmer
switch?
>Tia
>Bruce
>75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 23:10:49 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: 455 Exhaust manifolds

I too, may also be in the need for 455 exhaust manifolds that will fit
within the G-body engine bay. That is if the headers I currently have on
Quincy's 307 will not work with the 455 BB. So far no one has come forth
with any header - BB - G-body info so It will be a "try and see" the day we
do the swap. That should be next week.

I decided to go with a Th400 in this swap and the Trans is being rebuilt
this week. Mainly because it would take better than another month to get a
well built Th200-4R to handle this 455. The 400 is due to be done by Friday.
Nonetheless, if the headers don't fit I'll be in the market for exhaust
manifolds with a focus on RUSH. So anyone having a set please e-mail your
contact info as I might just have FedEx visiting your door next week.
Thanks,  Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 22:14:37 -0500 (EST)
From: hurst455@webtv.net (Corey Putnam)
Subject: Taillight problem solved

   Thanks everyone for your help. Charles Dempsey hit it right on the
head with the little strips of metal that are supposed to make contact
when screwed into the lense. I bent them out a little so they would make
contact and everythings working great now.
   As for the engine, I went over 500 miles on it today and also hooked
up the MSD box so I think it`s time to find a nice, quiet road and test
my G-Tech "howfastometer". I have a feeling that street slicks are going
to be on my "oh PLEASE honey" list soon.
  Thanks again for everyone`s replies.

Corey Putnam
75 H/O W-30(my way)
87 Regal w/Olds 455
H/OCA #0915A
OCC #0208
OCA #031264
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 23:34:16 -0400
From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com>
Subject: Re: High RPM stall question

Could be just a partially clogged fuel filter- it's happened to me.  And, it
kept happening. After 3 filter replacements is as many months, I figured out
the fuel tank had rusted out internally and was sending major junk down the
line to the carb.  Problem seemed to be aggravated by my (inexplicably)
dumping a bottle of lead substitute into the tank one day.  Seemed like it
really broke loose the stuff.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: J&T <tjf26@gte.net>
To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, May 16, 1999 8:58 PM
Subject: High RPM stall question


> I hope someone might be able to help me with a problem I started to have
> with my 71 442. It runs fine under normal driving conditions and when i
> get on it. The trouble is when it hits higher RPM, like right before
> shifting gears it bog's down right after the shift for a moment and then
> kicks back in. I put a new rotor, cap and points on about 500 miles ago.
> It ran ok until I brought it out this Spring. Anyone have any ideas what
> to check? It has a 70 455, turbo 400.
>                                              Thanks, Joe
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 23:31:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Rocket Science Parts &c. 5/99 

Forwarded message:
>From wittchri@pilot.msu.edu Mon May 17 23:01:08 1999
Message-Id: <199905180301.XAA29810@pilot019.cl.msu.edu>
Subject: Rocket Science Parts &c. 5/99
To: wittchri@pilot (me from myself)
Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 23:01:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
X-Mailer: ELM [version 2.4 PL25]
Content-Type: text/plain


                       Rocket Science - a hobby
                          Parts & Information
                         for the Oldsmobile V8

 -- Oil Pump Drive Rod.
Heat treated aircraft quality 4140 Chrome-moly 5/16" hex steel. Well
over 50% more torque capability than stock units. Using a high volume
or high pressure oil pump... why chance it? None finer is known to exist.
Others use 4130 steel... this one "goes to eleven". $10.00 ea.
[Compare at nearly $30 EACH elsewhere.]

  -- Split timing cover.
The top half comes right off. Remove and replace cam, or simply alter
cam timing, without the hassle of disturbing the oil pan and harmonic
balancer. Made from recycled covers. $35, no seal or gasket included.

   -- Universal Flexplate.
Fits both the early series V8's [pre-'68] and late series ['68 &
up].Includes hardware necessary for proper installation. No other
vendor offers this unique product. Race-tested. Fully serviceable
recycled units $90; made from new $120.

- -- Harmonic Balancer Repair Sleeve.
Stainless steel sleeve presses onto the worn seal surface of the
balancer, ensuring minimal leakage and longest possible seal life. $5
each, installation sealant included. The "M" vendor gets $8 each for
these, a significant difference if you are planning more than one
motor [and who isn't?].

  -- Degreasing Solvent.
Non-flammable alkaline chemical removes oily residue. Use it after
the solvent tank, and/or before painting. Rinse with water & blow
dry. Can be diluted to 10:1. Great stuff, highly recommended.
$20/gal. makes up to 10 gallons of degreaser.

  -- Cam installation aid.
Computer designed and analyzed! [as if that's necessary!] Handle
screws into the cam, provides support during removal or insertion,
helping avoid cam bearing damage. Steel, about 18" long. $10

  -- Circuit breaker
New, 12V 40A. Two #10-32 x 1/2" studs, and similar sized mounting
holes 1-9/16" apart on attached tang. Much like the PWindow & PSeat
circuit breakers used on the Oldsmobiles. $3.25.

  -- Heavy Duty Relay
New, 12V, 70A SPST relay useful for Halogen light conversion, starter
 disable, power windows circuitry, you name it. 1x1x1" cube with
two 1/4" spade terminals for coil and two 3/8" terminals for the
load. Manu uses for auxilliary lighting, hydraulics, stereo, anti-theft
systems, marine, etc., etc., etc. $5.40.

  -- Rocker Pedestal Shims.
New, Steel washer shims, 0.020" thick, 0.315 ID x 0.625 OD. Use unde
rrocker pedestals to adjust lifter plunger depression. 32 for $2.20.

  -- Rubber Shock Isolator.
New, 1" Round x 3/4" tall, 1/2" of 1/4-20 male thread one end,
similar female thread other end. Useful for attaching ignition box,
electric fans, stereo components, etc. Set of 4 for $2.50.

  -- Brake line joiner.
New, brass double female inverted flare for 1/4" line fittings with
thread OD of about 0.450". $0.45 ea.

  -- Block Drain Plug.
New, 1/4" NPT plug w/ 9/16" hex head. Zinc plated. Nearly identical
to the original. $0.45 ea.

  -- Block Drain Petcock.
New, brass 1/4" NPT right angle to 3/8" hose nipple. Very neat way to
drain the block- just attach 2 hoses, drain into receptacle, no mess.
Very high convenience factor for a TOTAL drain of the coolant. $4.55 ea.

  -- 1/8" NPT Pipe Plug.
New, Stainless Steel, recessed hex drive, very sanitary way to close
off unused vacuum ports on intake or carb, oil pressure or fuel
fittings, etc. $0.25 ea.

  -- Heat Shrink Tubing.
New, Short pcs. Picked up a bunch of HST, mostly 3/8" x about 1.25".
$1.00 a ziplock snack baggie. Quite handy for general repairs.

  -- Cars
1967 Delta 88 Custom Holiday Sedan. Aspen Green body. Trim code 382.
PW, PSeat, AC, Tilt & tele, rebuilt front end, excellent tires,
rebuilt 425-2V UHC motor, runs well. Needs front end sheetmetal put
back on, some rust repair. Structurally sound. $1500 whole car.

1969 Cutlass 2dr. Meadow Green body, green vinyl top, Beautiful gold
interior. Strato buckets, console. 350-2V w/ #5 heads, needs repair.
Jetaway 2spd AT. Fairly rusty, grille & headlight plastics sold, best
as a parts car $700. Interior: $400 for everything, you extract.

1966 Toronado, whole car, it runs & goes, has the ultimate Olds BB,
the Toro 425, racers love this motor with the Big valve C heads,
$1500 whole car.

  -- Parts: Genuine GM parts.
Mostly UBU [Used but useful] rebuildable core engines, body parts,
etc. Common parts cheap. Red '65-66 Bucket seats $200/pr. *NOS wire
spoke wheel covers $300 set of 4. *NOS Qjet #7029254 for 69 W30 $800/
trade for 7028254.

1966 Cutlass hood hinges $30/pr. Dual-exhaust crossmember, convert
your ride to duals the right way $40
1971 Cutlass rear quarters, new, installed, not rustfree, $100/pr
you extract 1977 Cutlass: nose piece [plastic], imperfect, $50.
Grilles, taillites, hood hinges, fresh parts car 3/99. Body is 4-door,
bench seat. Interior not much good. Has V6 motor core.
Rebuilt trans $100. Poverty hub caps $50/ set.

Nodular iron 455/ late 400 crankshaft for AT car $100
Heads, most types thru 1976. $50-up each
Heads, #5A, late model smogger 350, '77-'90, freshly redone, $250
403 motor, complete, original, intact, runs, $500, low miles.
455 motor, 1972 or '71, runs OK $350
425 Motor, 1967, rebuilt, highly desirable C heads, $1100

..................................................................
5/99: Large new collection of parts and LITERATURE from a gentleman
retired from Olds Engineering. Mostly '68-'85 items. Email a
request for a listing of these items, specify which you need.
Send SASE & one extra stamp for paper copy via snail mail.
..................................................................

  -- Parts cars: over 40 to choose from.
1962 Cutlass Convertible top mech'm, hood, decklid, $100 ea. 1964
Jetstar 88 4dr. 65 Delta 88 4dr. 65 Starfire, 3.23 posi $300. 66
Delta 88 2dr. 66-68-70 Toronado. 67 Delta Custom 4dr. 66-67 & 68-72
Cutlass & CSup. Beautiful Gold '69 Cutlass bucket seat interior,
$400for all. 66 Cutlass 2.56 10-bolt posi, $300. 67 Cutlass blue
interior- very nice door panels $75 ea., kick panels $40/pr., rear
seat $75. 68 convertible top mechanism $150. 73 Cutlass Supreme. 74-
5-6-7 Cutlass. '77 Cutlass Supreme 4-dr nose & headlights pieces,
poverty hubcaps, hood, decklid, hood hinges, V6-231 motor, rebuilt
ATrans, etc.

67 & 2-68 98 LS's, NICE 68 sheetmetal. 70 98 2dr w/ disc brakes,
AT shifter linkage compatible with dual exhaust $30, no sheetmetal
[all rusted away]. 68-70-72 Vista Cruiser. 70 & 73 Delta 88.
76 98 Regency Brougham beautiful red interior $200 you extract.
78 Holiday 88. 81 Delta, etc.

   Heads: A, C $150/pr, E*, G, Ga, J, 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-7a,
etc. Hi-flow SB heads to convert 403 engines to 9.5:1 compression
POWERplants. Early pattern flexplate. Pre-EGR intake. Exhaust
manifold, std. or dual-xst. DISC BRAKE conversion components. Glass,
mirrors, trim pieces, knobs, switches, etc.

   Engines, runnable & core motors:
1967 Toronado 425-4V-C, 1967 98 425-4V-C, 1968 Toronado 455-4V-C,
1968 98 455-4V-C, 1970 455-2V-no heads or intake, 1972 455-4V-Ga $350,
etc. Have small block motor cores also, 330's, 350's, 403's.
>>> No 260 or 307's <<< of course.

  -- Information:
What to look for, and avoid, in a core big block engine. Where to
find the best core motors, cheap. How to identify heads, blocks,
intakes, etc. What's valuable vs. what's lame. Where to find Olds
parts & info.

  * = NOS parts.

- -  -  -  -  -  -  -  - WANTED WANTED WANTED -  -  -  -  -  -
- - - Physical proof that Solid Main Web 403 engines exist. I will buy
a block, or pay for photos or video that show without a doubt that these
exist. Said to be mainly "4A" blocks made in late 1977, but most "4A"
blocks are open main webs, just like the "4B" blocks. Must be PROOF,
not rumor or story, though I am collecting those, also.

- - - FORGED 455 crank. Qjet #7028254, any condition whatsoever.
Rochester 2V carbs w/ SIDE INLET or w/o a choke plate.

517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

Chris Witt                             *the* Rocket Scientist
1303 W. Miller Rd.                           "Rocket Science"
Lansing, MI 48911                www.442.com/olds [Suppliers]
517-882-9747                           wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

  -- How to obtain items:
Since this is not exactly a business, just a hobby that has gotten
out of hand, you should probably just email or call me & we can
discuss your needs and whether I can be of any assistance.  Or, you
can mail me a list describing what you are looking for and the
minimum acceptable condition. STATE YOUR LOCATION first contact
please.


- -- 
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 23:40:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: Intro, items available

> Greetings... fellow Rocket Scientists
> 
> I suppose I qualify as a new subscriber, having been off for 2-3 years now.

Welcome back, Chris!  All we need now is Bob Barry and we'd have almost a
full reunion....

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    -->   bob@tecmark.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 00:06:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Misc, HD, SUBJECT, MIME...

Greetings fellow RS's

Saturday, HD man refused to take my bank check. This morning he accepted my
cash. I now have a 1980 Sportster. Rained like a moter all the way from the
very minute I left work to the instant Ipulled in my driveway. Hell-serious
like 60 mph winds. Sheesh.

Might even part with my '52 Cushman if it means I can keep the HD...

NOT that any of US would do this, but I just fielded YET ANOTHER email with the
oh so descriptive subject line... "PARTS."
 Sheeeeesh.
ANY IDEA how many emails I get about "parts"????
PLEASE folks be specific in your subject lines, if you want a '64 H/O LH upper
grille mount bracket with the left hand thread karbunckle, put at least SOME of
that in the subject line!

& duh everyone knows the H/O did not appear until '65, except for that rare
prototype '64 long thought lost to fire... Sey, he DID say that he used to work
for Olds Engineering...
=====================
I put my hand on the oil pan to feel for vibrations. I felt them
some, but not much.  However, the vibrations feel stronger and more
direct if I put my hand on the transmission pan.  So, it feels as if the
knocking is coming from there.  Currently, both the engine and tranny
function okay.  Any ideas?
- ---
Sounds like a busted or loose flexplate to me. Pull the inspection cover, grab
a light, see what's up. Use that HOSE to help pinpoint the sound.

==========================
The carb# 7040251 is listed in my big ACDelco book as being correct for the
plain old 455cid cars, with 7040255 for 4 4 2's with 350 and
7040255 and 7040256 do not have power pistons or metering rods.
Just a slight difference, huh?
- --=--
FRICK, FRACK, damn, no WONDER there was SO MUCH interest in that 7040255 carb
for $200. Should torn it down & inspected.
==========================

>I am cynical and will not hesitate to call on the carpet anyone who claims
>their 307 makes 478 HP [it HAS happened here...].


Yuh, mine only makes 450 ;-)
- ---
See, now, THAT, 450 HP, is almost sorta believeable, it'd be assumed that it
was your ESTIMATE based on whatever BS^H^H info you picke up in Ch*vy Craft
Magazine... but when the author claims four hundred seventy *EIGHT*, not 470,
not 480, but TO THE VERY ONE HP... that means they MUST have a dyno test sheet,
right? Nope...

- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 00:42:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Subject lines, mime

Folks, if you can turn off your MIME under OPTIONS, digest readers such as
myself would appreciate it.
=============

On the subject of subject lines, let me hold up these 2 gentlemen as paragons
of virtue:
- ---
From: "Walker" <pwalker@megavision.com>
Subject: early Q-jet choke assy
=================
Look at that, would you, that subject just cuts right to the chase!


This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
- ---
Which will fill your screen with many pages of interesting but otherwise
nonsense characters!


- - ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BE9FE2.573A0CC0
Content-Type: text/plain;
        charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

    Does any have or know where Ican get a choke asslembly (the one that =
fastens to the passenger side)
for a 66 Q-jet. I am tired of operating the choke by hand. It was MIA =
when i got it. Any help would be
appreciated. Thanks.
- ---
They are very numerous at junkyards.
Thomas P. Smith
- -----------
Really, where are these yards, pray tell. I have not seen a pre-80's car in any
yard around here in eons. Even my scrounging and scrap metal yard picking has
not revealed any 1960's items in quite some time. I am in Lansing, MI.


=====================
From: EDMUND WILLIAMS <efw67@yahoo.com>
Subject: 70 88/98 FENDERS

I am looking for good 70 88/98 front fenders in the US. I live in New
York. I would prefer to get them in New York, but anywhere in the US is
good. I will pay a reasonable price for them. thanks ED
=====================
Gotta admire that subject line.
I wrote, tole him I have some, probably rusty P'sOS, etc.

- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 00:53:43 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Stainless Studs

Oh, you stainless stud, you, oh, YESSSS!
... er, got carried away there...
- ---
I had the same thing happen a few weeks ago, if there is a small portion of the
bolt sticking out do what I did. We welded a nut to the broken bolt sticking
out, hence then we could remove it :~). Andy
You also may want to install stainless studs with nuts on you reassembly.
=====================
Yeah, what he said. It is possible that in the near future RS will obtain a
large qty of SS studs, self locking nylock nuts [almost suitable for xst use],
and even some 3/8-16 x L? SS cap screws ["bolts" to us common folk].

Y'all will the the second to know if/when that happens, they'll be offered up
for cheap probably.

I have a few such studs now, but they are nutless.

btw, I am trying to collect the top 10 things said in the garage that sound
dirty, but are not... anyone can help?

e.g.,
"Can you give me a hand with this, it's kinda heavy..."
  or
"I have NO IDEA how to get one of those off..."

"I've been working on this #@$$%@#$ for 2 hours now, and still haven't gotten
it off!"

"Snapped the nut right offa that stud!"

etc.

- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 01:15:50 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Stainless Studs

"I hate busted nuts"
"It broke off in the hole"
"I lost it down the hole"
"If you heat it up you can put it in"(for zero tolerance parts)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Brown Witt <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; me from myself <wittchri@pilot>
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 12:53 AM
Subject: Stainless Studs


> Oh, you stainless stud, you, oh, YESSSS!
> ... er, got carried away there...
> ---
> I had the same thing happen a few weeks ago, if there is a small portion
of the
> bolt sticking out do what I did. We welded a nut to the broken bolt
sticking
> out, hence then we could remove it :~). Andy
> You also may want to install stainless studs with nuts on you reassembly.
> =====================
> Yeah, what he said. It is possible that in the near future RS will obtain
a
> large qty of SS studs, self locking nylock nuts [almost suitable for xst
use],
> and even some 3/8-16 x L? SS cap screws ["bolts" to us common folk].
>
> Y'all will the the second to know if/when that happens, they'll be offered
up
> for cheap probably.
>
> I have a few such studs now, but they are nutless.
>
> btw, I am trying to collect the top 10 things said in the garage that
sound
> dirty, but are not... anyone can help?
>
> e.g.,
> "Can you give me a hand with this, it's kinda heavy..."
>   or
> "I have NO IDEA how to get one of those off..."
>
> "I've been working on this #@$$%@#$ for 2 hours now, and still haven't
gotten
> it off!"
>
> "Snapped the nut right offa that stud!"
>
> etc.
>
> --
> Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
> Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
> --
> 517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
> Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 00:16:51 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Great Weekend Continued

>Just an update if anyone is interested.  The show in Princeton NJ on Sunday
>was very good.  Lots of cars.  My favorite was a Pro Street 54 Nash
>Metropolitan stuffed with a Big Block Che*y and tubbed rear end.  Some of
you
>guys on the list might not know what they looked liked but think of a Mazda
>Miata only smaller.


"Stuffed" is definitely an under-statement.  When I was building chassis'
I did a Metro with a sbc and 12" tires.  That was a tight squeeze.  After
the
cage there wasn't much room left over for the driver!  Was a better idea on
paper than as a logistical reality.  Makes an Anglia look roomy........

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 23:05:43 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: 65-70 Big Car Suspension

Any takers on John's question? 

Has anyone seen "hubcap adapters" in the "use-14"-hubcaps-on-15"-wheels
configuration? Versions DO exist for using 15" hubcaps on 16" wheels.......I
know 'cause I own a set. They snap onto the wheel and the cap snaps into
them.
John Pajak

**********
Next: 
Let's just say I decide to retain the 14" size. Can I get a wheel built
which gets an additional inch of width on the _outside_ of the rim? I can't
change the width of the rim relative to the drum, it will hit the drum edge,
but I could conceivably add an inch from the middle out. 

Would this put too much force on the ends of the spindles or axles since it
would move the vehicle load outwards? I can imagine it might work, but can
also imagine it would play with the suspension in a way that was not
intended by Olds engineers. 

Solutions?

**********
Next:
I've purchased some polygraphite bushing sets for my 66 Starfire. They're
not on yet, so are not confirmed to fit, but they match the TRW factory spec
bushings so they should. 

So there are 2 pieces of good news for us big car guys:
1) You _can_ get poly bushings, but have to buy two sets for a total of $135
or so, some parts will be unused. 

2) The Hotchkiss rear trailing arms fit our cars. The early ones from 64-67
work on my 66. I believe this combo will also work up to 1970, perhaps
later.

So if you want a good handling landyacht, stay tuned. When I get the parts
on and confirm that they 1)fit and 2) are an improvement (or not), I'll let
you all know the recipe. Kudos to Dan Lacey for the TRW/Energy Suspensions
research on this one. 

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1963
*********************************

