Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1955


oldsmobile-digest       Thursday, May 13 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1955



Re: Oldsmobile Frown
Re: clutch fan
Re: wiring ?? continued oops
Whats the Number
new suspension bushings
RE: Rumble
Re: Wiring help please t.i.a.
Re: GOOD GOD! IT'S SOM'S EVIL TWIN!!!!
Re: Car Craft (was Engine ID)
'72 Cutlass parts car
Re: Q-Jet Project. Grind Away!
Re: Q-Jet Project. Grind Away!
Aurora Breakdown... Northstar takes over.
73 Cutlass in Dallas
Re: New addition...Thanks for the replies
Re: Pricing
Re: Timing problem
warning about Brake Master Cylinders on 90's ABS cars.
[none]
1969 (Fake) H/O in Austin, TX
heads to look for
Re: Aurora Breakdown... Northstar takes over.
Mmmh. M-m-m-h. Mmmm!!! was: Should we stay single (exhaust).
Re: Great Midwestern Caravan of 1999.
1903 Olds
Re: 1969 (Fake) H/O in Austin, TX
Wheels for a Toro.
Spark plug wire lenght and other questions.
Re: 1969 (Fake) H/O in Austin, TX
RE: Aurora Breakdown... Northstar takes over.
70 DELTA88 /98 PARTS NEEDED/TESTING A CLOCK
Tire & Wheel Prices
Re: Spark plug wire lenght and other questions.
Re: 70 DELTA88 /98 PARTS NEEDED/TESTING A CLOCK
Oldsmobile Frown..
Who repairs Delco radios?
Fw: [Fwd: Fwd: FW: Microsoft Money! Let's Try It!!]

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 06:13:43 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Frown

OK Ill try it.  I can't go to far wrong its already bent!  Anyother ideas
out there on how to straighten these puppies out?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: John Pajak <jspajak@us.hsanet.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 11:05 PM
Subject: Oldsmobile Frown


>      Someone (sorry I forgot who) posted a message about a 70-72 bent
front
> Cutlass bumper. That is the infamous "Oldsmobile Frown", usually a result
of
> being towed by a sling-type tow truck.
>      The fix costs nothing and is certainly worth a try. Insert a 2x4 in
the
> bumper slot and pick up gently on the 2x4. Alternate this treatment from
> side to side. You should be able to bend it back into almost perfect
shape.
> These bumpers are actually quite flimsy and can be bent with little
effort.
>      It worked for me on my 72 442!!!!!
>
> John Pajak
> http://drive.to/pajak
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 06:21:00 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: clutch fan

I do not believe they rebuild clutch fans.  At least I have never seen one
listed at the parts store.  The real test of the fan will be driving around
in town with stop and go traffic.  When the car is at highway speeds the fan
clutch slips to put more hp into the motor.  Less resistance on the motor
because its not spinning the fan.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Mike McLeod <mikemcleod@msn.com>
To: Olds <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 11:32 PM
Subject: clutch fan


> I replaced my clutch fan today in hopes of controlling the engine temps in
a
> more reasonable range. It seemed to work, drove on the highway for about a
> half hour at 65. The factory temp gage indicated a lower temp then it has
> been reading. That made me very happy :-).I was wondering if any of the
list
> members would know if the fan clutch I took off was an original part? The
> number on the part is 05749. Made in the USA by Thermo Trol tm. Also can
> this part be rebuilt if it is original? Thanks
>
> Michael McLeod
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 06:34:25 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: wiring ?? continued oops

I have a 71 service bible if you want a 71 diagram.?!
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Randy Hermsen <76Cutlass@netscape.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 1999 2:58 AM
Subject: wiring ?? continued oops


> Sorry started to ramble last post was mentioning main junc. or horn relay
on
> fire wall ...my guess is the spare red from starter heavy gage should go
to
> main juncton blk.-due to fact mounting bolt very loose like someone
removed a
> fuseable link here and never replaced it???anyone gotr a scanner or fax to
> send me wireing chart 72 cutlass ??? gotta buy a book
>                T.I.A.
>                       Randy
>                          76 cutlass supreme
>                            72 cutlass supreme conv.
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at
http://webmail.netscape.com.
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 06:53:31 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Whats the Number

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I can not find my latest issue of Car Craft.  What is the number to call =
to create your own issue?  I believe it was something like being editor =
for a day.?  Mark or John would you like to send that number out to us =
all please.?  Then we can get everyone on the list to call in or email =
in and vote for an all Olds issue!!!!!!!!!!!  Everyone can vote for it.  =
You do not have to subscribe to vote.  We all have to vote or it will be =
another Camaro Craft issue or better yet Mopar!
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html

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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I can not find my latest issue of Car Craft.&nbsp; =
What is the=20
number to call to create your own issue?&nbsp; I believe it was =
something like=20
being editor for a day.?&nbsp; Mark or John&nbsp;would you&nbsp;like to =
send=20
that number out to us all please.?&nbsp; Then we can get everyone on the =
list to=20
call in or email in and vote for an all Olds issue!!!!!!!!!!!&nbsp; =
Everyone can=20
vote for it.&nbsp; You do not have to subscribe to vote.&nbsp; We all =
have to=20
vote or it will be another Camaro Craft issue or better yet =
Mopar!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A><BR>Steve<BR>North=20
Carolina<BR>ICQ#26466860<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html">http://members.xoo=
m.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html</A></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 07:24:39 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: new suspension bushings

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There have been a lot of questions about inserting and removing new =
bushings.  I made my own press(very cheap) at home that worked rather =
well.   What I need is some feedback first.  Please email me if you =
think it would be of use.  I will post a step-by-step on how to do it on =
my web page.  I need to know if it would be worth the time tho.=20
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html=20

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<STYLE></STYLE>
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>There have been a lot of questions about inserting =
and=20
removing new bushings.&nbsp; I made my own press(very cheap) at home =
that worked=20
rather well.&nbsp;&nbsp; What I need is some feedback first.&nbsp; =
Please email=20
me if you think it would be of use.  I will post a step-by-step on how =
to do it=20
on my web page.  I need to know if it would be worth the time=20
tho.&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A><BR>Steve<BR>North=20
Carolina<BR>ICQ#26466860<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html">http://members.xoo=
m.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html</A>&nbsp;</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 04:28:48 -0700
From: andrewm@edify.com
Subject: RE: Rumble

I just went through this on my 71 Delta 88 convertible.  The usual
suspects, rear-end, bearings, came up clean.  

The guilty party?  The transmission mount.  The rubber had
deteriorated to the point that the noises and vibrations from the
transmission could be felt and heard within the car.  Total cost to
fix, about 18 bucks. 

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Greg Beaulieu
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 11:54 AM
To: Oldsmobile
Subject: Rumble


I know this will be a tough thing to diagnose long-distance, but I
wonder
if you guys can offer me suggestions on where to look and what to look
for...

The '68 has started to evidence a "rumble" for want of a better word.
It
is a low-pitched sound, seems to be coming from the back but hard to
tell
for sure. Sometimes there, sometimes not, depends on speed. I would
suspect exhaust, but unless I'm imagining things there seems to be a
different "feel" to the car. Not really a noticeable vibration as much
as
a lack of smoothness or a sense of grittiness in the feel of the
thing.
 
I dunno where to check or what to look for:
exhaust?
rear diff? (hope not!)
Axle bearings?
Front wheel bearings?
U-joints?
Tranny?

Since the noise is most evident at speed it is kind of hard to check
these
things out in the garage, but maybe some of you have suggestions. I'm
worried, but don't want to start replacing parts indiscriminately...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia,
Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 08:02:52 -0400
From: "Randy Geisel" <Rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Wiring help please t.i.a.

Randy,

Click on the links below. They are pics of the 72 Chassic manual electrical
diagrams. I was going to put them on my web page. Some year I'll get around
to finishing it. It'll probably take a while to load, they're pretty big
files.

http://home.att.net/~tinman3/abodyelec.jpg
http://home.att.net/~tinman3/abodyelec2.jpg

If this doesn't help drop me a line and I'll find what you need.

Take care,
Randy (#3?)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 05:10:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: GOOD GOD! IT'S SOM'S EVIL TWIN!!!!

Did you notice that the service manual is from 1956 not from 1965?  The
car looks to be in Great shape for the price tho.

 - stefan

- --- Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com> wrote:
> 
> This has to be one of the seven signs of the apocolypse :)
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=102971467
> 
> Omega Man
> 
> 

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 08:27:16 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Car Craft (was Engine ID)

I agree Car Craft has finally come back to the people. I just subscribed
again. (Something I haven't done for 7 years). I like the low buck stuff.
Another thing that turned me back on was when they asked to see more
Apollos, Venturas and Oooh yea OMEGAS! I'll have to send them some pics
when I get mine done. I just might have Car Craft material and it ain't no
blown pro-street red 69 Camaro :)

Omega Man
'74 Omega S 455/auto
'74 Omega 455/4speed


At 02:52 PM 5/12/99, you wrote:
>
>>The guys at Chevvy Craft did throw a bone or two to Olds in other 
>>articles, but the tiny blurb for spotting Olds BB's was laughable.
>________________________________
>
>For those of you who haven't seen a copy of Car Craft lately, the 
>magazine has been VERY different since David Freiburger took over as 
>editor.  Back when he worked for Hot Rod he was the sole Mopar guy on 
>that magazine; now he's turned Car Craft into a very eclectic 
>magazine, featuring AMC's, Buicks, Olds, Mopars, and yes, Fords and 
>Chevy's. Also the magazine is full of low-cost buildups and stuff that 
>the average joe on the average joe's income can use. I would say the 
>old "Camaro Craft" and "Chevy Craft" nicknames are no longer very good 
>fits.
>
>I used to have no use for Car Craft at all a couple of years ago, it 
>only featured megabuck Chevy's, but lately it's been my favorite car 
>magazine. And yes, I'll say it before someone else does, they do 
>sometimes make mistakes about things Oldsian (& Mopar), but they're 
>still my favorite car mag!
>
>-John Carri
>'72 Supreme
>'73 RoadRunner
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 10:07:33 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: '72 Cutlass parts car

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The parts car is on its last days in my front garage.  A few people have =
emailed me with requests.  If anyone else needs any small parts let me =
know soon.  I have picked it over very hard,  and not much is left.
    This is for the folks who have already emailed me.  PLEASE EMAIL ME =
AGAIN.  I apologize,  but I got carried away with the delete button.  I =
have the small plastic piece to the package tray.  It is the end cap for =
the metal trim along the rear window (interior) driver side.  I also =
have the defrost vent, passenger and driver side.  They do not have part =
numbers on them.  I will look one up if I can find it listed.
    I am sorry about deleting ya'll.  Just email me again.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html

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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The parts car is on its last days in my front =
garage.&nbsp; A=20
few people have emailed me with requests.&nbsp; If anyone else needs any =
small=20
parts let me know soon.&nbsp; I have picked it over very hard,&nbsp; and =
not=20
much is left.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; This is for the folks who have =
already=20
emailed me.&nbsp; PLEASE EMAIL ME AGAIN.&nbsp; I apologize,&nbsp; but I =
got=20
carried away with the delete button.&nbsp; I have the small plastic =
piece to the=20
package tray.&nbsp; It is the end cap for the metal trim along the rear =
window=20
(interior) driver side.&nbsp; I also have the defrost vent, passenger =
and driver=20
side.&nbsp; They do not have part numbers on them.&nbsp; I will look one =
up if I=20
can find it listed.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I am sorry about deleting =
ya'll.&nbsp; Just=20
email me again.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A><BR>Steve<BR>North=20
Carolina<BR>ICQ#26466860<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html">http://members.xoo=
m.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html</A></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 10:33:08 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Q-Jet Project. Grind Away!

2.  Slightly knife-edge the throttle plates.
______

Be careful here.  First, the edges of the throttle plates are already contoured
to ensure that they fit flush up against the sides of the throttle body when
closed (the plates are angled in the closed position, so the edges aren't
perpendicular to the faces).  Second, I'd be concerned that you might get into 
a
situation where the plates wouldn't close properly, potentially causing a stuck
throttle.  The bottom line is that thinning the shafts (as you suggested) is a
common flow improvement practice, but most people don't mess with the throttle
plates themselves, as I suspect the gain is minimal.

===========

4.  Grind the threads off the exposed threads on the through-bolts in
the secondaries.
______

Be careful here too.  Note that the ends of the screws are staked so that they
can't back out and get swallowed in the engine.  Just be sure that after
grinding you re-stake the ends.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 10:43:00 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Q-Jet Project. Grind Away!

> 2.  Slightly knife-edge the throttle plates.
> ______
> The bottom line is that thinning the shafts (as you suggested) is a
> common flow improvement practice, but most people don't mess with the 
throttle
> plates themselves, as I suspect the gain is minimal.

Good point.  Really, I'm still debating it.  The Q-Jet throttle plates are 
rather
thin as it is.  I may end up just leaving them alone.

> 4.  Grind the threads off the exposed threads on the through-bolts in
> the secondaries.
> ______
>
> Be careful here too.  Note that the ends of the screws are staked so that 
they
> can't back out and get swallowed in the engine.  Just be sure that after
> grinding you re-stake the ends.

Again, good advice.  However, I'm not talking about the secondary throttle 
plate
screws.  I'm referring to the long machine screws at the rear of the carb.  
That
extend from the air horn, though the main body and screw into the throttle 
body.
These screws pass through the back of the secondary throttle bore itself.  I'm 
just
gonna file the exposed threads off them to smooth the shank.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/dual exhaust/
        sometimes Q-Jet, sometimes Holley/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 09:56:51 -0400
From: "bob" <bwassell@msn.com>
Subject: Aurora Breakdown... Northstar takes over.

wanted to share this with the group, thought it was very cool.

Saturday night, about 11 pm my wife broke down in my 95 aurora.
she said that it was making chiming noises, and traction control off
indicator was lit, and
the car wasn't running right.

I got a quick babysitter and sped off to save my damsel in distress.
She was about 2 miles from home.
I let her take my mini-van home, and I drove the aurora.

(the parking lot that she was stuck at was too dark to pop the hood unless i
absolutely had to,
and at this point, i wasn't sure).

I started the car, and the car did start.  The traction control off
indicator was indeed lit.
looked at the temperature gauge, and it was borderline red.
drove away, and my Digital Information screen said, "Engine hot... turning
off a/c".
Also, as i drove away, the car performed like an electric golf cart,
not letting me accelerate at all. the computer had put a real mean
restriction on any acceleration.
2 blocks later.
Info Screen than said "Engine Hot... Turn off now".
Fortunately, I was on my street.

I got the car towed to the dealer, and the water pump had seized, and also
tore up the belt.
I had bought an extended warranty on the car, and my CD player wasn't
ejecting all the time, so they
replaced that also!.
(water pump was a $300 bill).

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 10:04:05 -0500
From: Ralph Haber <cen26984@centuryinter.net>
Subject: 73 Cutlass in Dallas

Hello All,
The 73 Cutlass Coupe is yet available.  This car has the 442 body style
of that year (i.e. not the formal roof), and is an original piece.  The
car
runs and drives, has about 100K on it, and is pretty darn straight.
This
car was originally purchased in Austin, TX, and has been in the SW
ever since (i.e. no major rust).  Anyone interested in this car should
visit
my website at
            http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Garage/5890

for more info.  This car really needs and interior and would be a real
good candidate for a set of buckets/console.  Could be an easy 442
clone.....

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 11:06:37 -0400
From: Brian Kerr <bkerr@golden.net>
Subject: Re: New addition...Thanks for the replies

To all who offered congrats on our new arrival, thankyou. Fatherhood is
really an amazing and fullfilling experience. I have been so occupied
with the the new baby, a sick wife, and a new job, that I have had no
time to even look at my Olds digest, let alone reply.
    I did however take the convertible to work last Thursday (its still
topless). I checked the raday weather to see that the weather would
hold, everything was clear and supposed to stay that way for the day. My
trip to work now is 115 km (71.5 miles) one way. We will be moving as
soon as we find a place and sell our house.
    Anyway, of course the weatherman was wrong, and midafternoon the sky
to the Southwest started turning dark and angry. So I left work a bit
early to head home for the 1 hour and 35 min drive. I made it about 7 or
8 miles before the first drops hit the windshield. I kept the pedal
down. The direction home as the crow flies is northeast, but the roads
run north/south, east/west. Everytime I headed north a few rain drops
caught up to me, and everytime I headed east, I drove into clearer
skies. Almost all the roads are 50 mph, but glancing at the speedo after
passing a short string cars or semis, I noticed the needle edging 100
mph on several occasions. Unfortunately the 455 sucks alot of fuel
during these 4 barrel full throttle bursts, and I ran out of gas (gauge
doesnt work) 3 mi from home. Got on the cell phone, called my dad who
arrived in short order with a gas can, and made it home and in the
garage 5 min before the downpour. By rough calculations the average fuel
consumption for the trip was less than 10 mpg  (thats Imperial gallons)
= about 8 mi/USgal
    I think I used up all of my automotive good luck on that trip. In
order to appease the highway gods I'll have to stick to the speed limit
for a couple of years.

Again, thankyou everyone for your thoughts and comments

Brian Kerr

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 10:02:22 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Pricing

As harry already mentioned those things give you only a rough idea. E. g. 
you will find that a 68 cutlass is in the same price range then then a 
73! This is just not true and shows that the price guide does not reflect 
the higher (current) desirability of 68-72. It can give you an idea 
though and bring you back to your feet when you think that your car is 
worth lots of money and it will prevent you from spending too much for a 
turn key car. I am talking about the 'old car price guide'. They say they 
get their prices from nationwide ads. I don't know if they state the 
actual selling or the asking prices. There must be a lot of missing data 
they seem to fill up with numbers that sound reasonable to them... they 
miss pretty much what is going on in the olds field though.

I had cited the price guide every now and then when people were asking 
for pricing. It sure helps a little but only for a rough idea. It helped 
me to convince someone to leave his hands off a 72 cutlass conv. that was 
rusty and expensive (10k).

Regards, George

- ---------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
- ---------------------

On Wed, 12 May 1999, Mark wrote:

> A lot of people have been asking about pricing lately.
> 
>   In response, I have an Old Cars Price Guide.
> 
>   How accurate is this?  Would this help any of you out?
> 
>   Mark MacDonald
>   1975 Olds Delta 88
>   <http://home.earthlink.net/~greenmm>
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 09:19:36 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Timing problem

Hi Phil,
	the starter and the solenoid get hot (especially with headers) and the 
2
things happen:
	1) the starters internals expand and the internal friction increases
	2) the resistance of the wiring goes up

	In addition too much initial advance on the ignition can cause the 
motor to
"fight" the starter.

	If you are running headers you should cover your start/solinoid 
assembly with
a full heat shield.  If you don't have headers then you can just run the little
solenoid heat shield that Year One, Fusicks, et al sell.

Good luck,
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 11:27:30 -0400
From: Doug Ahern <doug@mail.RATH.PeachNet.EDU>
Subject: warning about Brake Master Cylinders on 90's ABS cars.

My mother had a 91 Olds 98 Touring Sedan.  At around 40-50k miles,
the brake pedal went to the floor (with no actually braking occuring).
on the next pump of the pedal the brakes were restored.  the next day
she had the dealer replace the Master cylinder.  The supervisor of the
garage said the  the piston in the MC developed a problem and that he
had seen it before.   Two weeks ago, at 95k miles, it happened again the
brake pedal went to the floor. This time, there was no second chance
as it was during a panic stop in traffic.  with the brake pedal on the floor
and absolutely no braking occuring, the car smashed into a jeep.  The
car was totalled at $7k worth of damage.

GM has not had a recall on these MC's.  they only last 50k or so and then
fail completely.   I wonder if GM is waiting some certain number of fatalities
to occur before they recall their faulty brake equipment.  total bullsh!t.


- --

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 08:44:03 -0700
From: BOYD DONALD R <drboyd@srpnet.com>
Subject: [none]

I've got about a '65 Fender Princeton Reverb that has the old style
mechanical reverb.  The fun comes when you move it or bump it with the amp
on, and it sounds like an explosion in a hardware factory!

And, if the list gets really dull sometime, I'll share the story about how I
bought a 1965 Mosrite Ventures II for $200.  Really!  

OBLIGATORY OLDS CONTENT:

John, I just sold a 71 Plymouth GTX - I was never so glad to be rid of a
vehicle in my life!  I tell you, things on that car would break so fast that
they'd violate the laws of physics.  Ran like a bear, but broke all the
time.  

So, now I've got some cash to fix up the 76 Cutlass 455.  How 'bout some
suggestions for bolt-on power that will still let me retain the EGR valve
(annual inspections for that stuff in AZ!) and stay more-or-less smog legal?
And drivable.  If I were going to change heads on this beast, which heads
should I be looking for in Ye Olde Yards?

Thanks!

Don Boyd
76 Cutlass Hurst t-tops
factory 455
special order orange


		From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
		Subject: Re: Reverb

		They used to sell the same things (spring reverb units) for
use with 
		electric guitars; they have a spring inside, a little
doohicky very 
		like a small loudspeaker vibrates one end of the spring; the

		vibrations travel down the spring (just the way a slinky
behaves, but 
		faster as the spring is smaller and not as heavy) and
finally reaches 
		the other end, where it shakes a doohicky like a microphone,
which 
		turns the vibrations back into electricity. The vibrations
then bounce 
		off the far end of the spring and head back to the
beginning, then 
		bounce back again, and so on and so on, making the
reverberating sound 
		of multiple fading echoes closely spaced in time. Tends to
make the 
		hearer think he/she is listening in a large hall, hence the
"spacey" 
		or quasi-stereo sound.

		Modern reverbs use digital electronics to convert the
incoming signal 
		into numbers, store them in memory, and then read them out
multiple 
		times with short delays between each readout. Gets you much
cleaner 
		reverb, and no pickup of outside noises. My company, Alesis
Studio 
		Electronics, makes these modern reverbs as well as many
other audio 
		products for musicians.

		- -John Carri
		'72 Supreme
		'73 RoadRunner
		(and a couple of electric guitars, and an Alesis Wedge
reverb unit..)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 10:59:44 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: 1969 (Fake) H/O in Austin, TX

Hi Joe.  I guess I'm just gonna ask you what I was gonna ask the
list...you'd probably be the one answering all the questions anyway.

Here's all the data I collected on the car:

Body - 
1969 Oldsmobile coupe, of the style like every 1969 H/O (non-post) - you
would say "S" coupe, yes?
Red in color
Wing on trunk
Correct chrome bumper with cutouts and exhaust tips
'69 H/O hood scoop - the edges of this seem very "iffy", i.e. bubbling
around scoop/hood seam, and there's no single center-	mounted massive 
hole
in the underside center of the hood for O.A.I.
Black fenderwells - I know, no red fenderwhells on a '69 H/O, only W-30
No exterior identifying emblems of any kind, and no rivet holes either -
they've been bondoed over.  No emblem on hood 	tongue, no emblem on
fenders, no emblem on trunk decklid. 
6 emblem mounting studs on inside of hood tongue - you say this is normal
for a H/O
No trunk key hole - been bondoed over
On inside fender edges, chipping red paint reveals gold paint underneath -
original gold also supported by 	streaking/fading/chipping on other 
parts
of car

VIN - 
344879M434050

Fisher Body Plate
ST69	33687LAN433030  BDY
TR    934	   75  75   PNT

Engine - 
Blue 455
396021 F (with serifs on both horizontal and vertical ends)
Offenhauser Intake (didn't write down numbers on the intake, I think it was
996?)
Erson chrome valve covers
No carb.
No dist.
PB
PS
A/C
Rusted headers
"G" heads

Interior - 
Gold in color
Rockets on door panels
No console
Inoperative clutch pedal
Grant GT steering wheel, wood grip
3 instrument pods
	left - stock idiot lights for (counter-clock from top) Fuel, Brake, 
Gen,
Oil, Hot
	center - stock speedo, calibrated to 120
	right - aftermarket tach, Suntune brand (real crappy looking)
Aftermarket temp and oil pressure guages below dash, in front of pasenger
No radio
Rectangular H/O stick-on emblem (decal) on glove box door

Transmission - 
Automatic
	(there were ants everywhere, so I couldn't go crawling around)

Rear End - 
Limited Slip Tag
	(again, ants, so no codes)

Wheels - 
SSIIs w/ "snap on?" caps (I could pull the cap off w/ no tools, and there
didn't appear to be a way to screw them down), 	pretty good condition
Performance Radial GTs, P235 60 R16
4 Centerline wheels in the back seat

As overall transportation - 
Good luck.  The only perfect thing on this car is the wheels/tires (don't
look like they have any miles on them) - although the block is sitting in
the engine bay, the fuel pump is hanging by the fuel lines, no carb, no
dist, etc etc.

WHY I DON'T THINK IT'S AN H/O - 
Easiest, quickest way is the Body Plate - shouldn't all H/Os have 50-50
paint codes and 930 trim codes?
	IF THE ABOVE IS TRUE, THEN THAT WOULD END ALL DISCUSSION RIGHT THERE,
WOULDN'T IT?
Why would somebody paint an H/O red?
Even if someone DID paint it red, the inside of the fenders wouldn't be
GOLD, would they?
No H/O emblems on outside of car - even though the trunk keyhole suggests
they were going for some kind of custom 	look, why ditch the emblems?

IT'S NOT NUMBERS MATCHING -
No blue 396021 F engines in a 1969 car

WHAT I DON'T GET - 
What's up with a clutch pedal (even one that doesn't work) on an automatic
car?

WHAT I THINK IT IS - 
1969 442 Holiday Coupe
no numbers matching
hot-rodded to hell
H/O wing on the back, non-functional H/O scoop on the hood, H/O glove box
emblem

Asking price (and remember, it's advertised as a 1970 H/O) - $1500.  Please.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88  RB                   (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 12:14:58 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: heads to look for

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01BE9D3A.37B7A9C0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Don Boyd
76 Cutlass Hurst t-tops
factory 455
special order orange


So, now I've got some cash to fix up the 76 Cutlass 455.  How 'bout some
suggestions for bolt-on power that will still let me retain the EGR =
valve
(annual inspections for that stuff in AZ!) and stay more-or-less smog =
legal?
And drivable.  If I were going to change heads on this beast, which =
heads
should I be looking for in Ye Olde Yards?

Look for heads with the letter casting of 'C' 'G' or 'F'.  This is the =
large letter cast into the LH side near the spark plug hole.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html



- ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01BE9D3A.37B7A9C0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Don Boyd<BR>76 Cutlass Hurst t-tops<BR>factory =
455<BR>special=20
order orange<BR><BR><BR>So, now I've got some cash to fix up the 76 =
Cutlass=20
455.&nbsp; How 'bout some<BR>suggestions for bolt-on power that will =
still let=20
me retain the EGR valve<BR>(annual inspections for that stuff in AZ!) =
and stay=20
more-or-less smog legal?<BR>And drivable.&nbsp; If I were going to =
change heads=20
on this beast, which heads<BR>should I be looking for in Ye Olde=20
Yards?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Look for heads with the letter casting of 'C' 'G' or =

'F'.&nbsp; This is the large letter cast into the LH side near the spark =
plug=20
hole.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A><BR>Steve<BR>North=20
Carolina<BR>ICQ#26466860<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html">http://members.xoo=
m.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html</A><BR><BR></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01BE9D3A.37B7A9C0--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 09:29:30 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Aurora Breakdown... Northstar takes over.

>Also, as i drove away, the car performed like an electric
>golf cart, not letting me accelerate at all. the computer
>had put a real mean restriction on any acceleration.

Isn't the Northstar one of those engines that'll run on no coolant by 
switching off alternating banks of cylinders? It'll run one bank until the 
temperature goes up, then switch to the other, and so on, while you limp 
home.

>2 blocks later. Info Screen than said "Engine Hot...
>Turn off now".

Okay, well, maybe not indefinitely.  :-)

I found all kinds of other cool little details buried in the service manual 
on my '93 SSEi (Ob. Olds content: Same as the 88.):

o  Distance sensors trigger a warning if the vehicle moves more than 50 feet 
with the parking brake on.
o  The ECM will record up to three air-bag deployment "events" in its 
memory.
o  Low-speed steering assist boost disengages at 20 mph.
o  The step-up increment of the cruise control is exactly 1 mph each time.
o  The TCC engagement is at precisely 48 mph. (And if you don't believe it, 
set the cruise at 47 mph, then press the ACC button just once: BRRRRRM... 
kaWhump... brrrrrm... :-)

I'm as big a fan of the old iron as anyone, but there is other fun to be had 
with the modern stuff as well...

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 12:31:33 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Mmmh. M-m-m-h. Mmmm!!! was: Should we stay single (exhaust).

<< Umm....is a cat back dual system practical for the 65? >>

Karl is upset.
The question above is now academic.

And SOM can no longer speak to Karl.
At all.

The infernal thing is quieter than a Salvage Yarde.
Karl really misses hearing the motor.
And the ~Baaaaaaugh~ when letting off throttle.

Pipe is lower than it oughtta be as rather than a true custom job, they seem 
to have used a best-fit method, missing the proper spot (the crossmember 
hump) by about 2" or so.

But for the price of $133 total, we'll accept that.

And back to the total lack of any sound (murmurs at WOT are insignificant 
compared to wind noise!), how can Karl tell if muffler is too restrictive?

In retrospect, dunno if these guys knew SOM sported a nifty 425!

Cross country drives gonna be maddening for Karl with no-one to talk to.

SOM

&KA  <-----"Snap out of it! Say a few syllables!" 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 12:38:49 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Great Midwestern Caravan of 1999.

In a message dated 99-05-12 16:14:58 EDT, you write:

<< Planning on going if physical able, will let you know ahead of time. >>

Will stop by either case.
Seems to be on the way.

K

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 12:57:44 -0400
From: Dusan Neumann <dneu@ptdprolog.net>
Subject: 1903 Olds

Gentlmen,

my friend in England owns 1903 Oldsmobile. He would like to trace the
history of this car. The car was registered in New York.
 It has a round plaque   "Registered ........... Motor vehicle Law"
"No.31222 New York"
Can anybody advice where he can find some answers?

Thanks

Dusan Neumann

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 12:03:22 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: 1969 (Fake) H/O in Austin, TX

OK, who's an idiot...obviously meant to send this directly to Joe P.
(that's why it's addressed to him)...was going to post what resulted from
Joe's reply, but now you can play too!

This is the car that someone pointed out was for sale on traderonline.com -
the one advertised as a 1970 H/O with a picture of a 1966 442 convertible.
Since I live in Austin, I drove to the place and checked it out.  Typical
used-car salesman type atmosphere, with people that smile a lot and make
you feel important...the incorrect picture was AutoTrader's screw-up, but
Jesus man, if you don't even know what YEAR the friggin' car is, there is
SERIOUSLY something wrong...

At 10:59 AM 5/13/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Hi Joe.  I guess I'm just gonna ask you what I was gonna ask the
>list...you'd probably be the one answering all the questions anyway.
>
>Here's all the data I collected on the car:
>
>Body - 
>1969 Oldsmobile coupe, of the style like every 1969 H/O (non-post) - you
>would say "S" coupe, yes?
>Red in color
>Wing on trunk
>Correct chrome bumper with cutouts and exhaust tips
>'69 H/O hood scoop - the edges of this seem very "iffy", i.e. bubbling
>around scoop/hood seam, and there's no single center-	mounted massive 
hole
>in the underside center of the hood for O.A.I.
>Black fenderwells - I know, no red fenderwhells on a '69 H/O, only W-30
>No exterior identifying emblems of any kind, and no rivet holes either -
>they've been bondoed over.  No emblem on hood 	tongue, no emblem on
>fenders, no emblem on trunk decklid. 
>6 emblem mounting studs on inside of hood tongue - you say this is normal
>for a H/O
>No trunk key hole - been bondoed over
>On inside fender edges, chipping red paint reveals gold paint underneath -
>original gold also supported by 	streaking/fading/chipping on other 
parts
>of car
>
>VIN - 
>344879M434050
>
>Fisher Body Plate
>ST69	33687LAN433030  BDY
>TR    934	   75  75   PNT
>
>Engine - 
>Blue 455
>396021 F (with serifs on both horizontal and vertical ends)
>Offenhauser Intake (didn't write down numbers on the intake, I think it was
>996?)
>Erson chrome valve covers
>No carb.
>No dist.
>PB
>PS
>A/C
>Rusted headers
>"G" heads
>
>Interior - 
>Gold in color
>Rockets on door panels
>No console
>Inoperative clutch pedal
>Grant GT steering wheel, wood grip
>3 instrument pods
>	left - stock idiot lights for (counter-clock from top) Fuel, Brake, 
Gen,
>Oil, Hot
>	center - stock speedo, calibrated to 120
>	right - aftermarket tach, Suntune brand (real crappy looking)
>Aftermarket temp and oil pressure guages below dash, in front of pasenger
>No radio
>Rectangular H/O stick-on emblem (decal) on glove box door
>
>Transmission - 
>Automatic
>	(there were ants everywhere, so I couldn't go crawling around)
>
>Rear End - 
>Limited Slip Tag
>	(again, ants, so no codes)
>
>Wheels - 
>SSIIs w/ "snap on?" caps (I could pull the cap off w/ no tools, and there
>didn't appear to be a way to screw them down), 	pretty good condition
>Performance Radial GTs, P235 60 R16
>4 Centerline wheels in the back seat
>
>As overall transportation - 
>Good luck.  The only perfect thing on this car is the wheels/tires (don't
>look like they have any miles on them) - although the block is sitting in
>the engine bay, the fuel pump is hanging by the fuel lines, no carb, no
>dist, etc etc.
>
>WHY I DON'T THINK IT'S AN H/O - 
>Easiest, quickest way is the Body Plate - shouldn't all H/Os have 50-50
>paint codes and 930 trim codes?
>	IF THE ABOVE IS TRUE, THEN THAT WOULD END ALL DISCUSSION RIGHT THERE,
>WOULDN'T IT?
>Why would somebody paint an H/O red?
>Even if someone DID paint it red, the inside of the fenders wouldn't be
>GOLD, would they?
>No H/O emblems on outside of car - even though the trunk keyhole suggests
>they were going for some kind of custom 	look, why ditch the emblems?
>
>IT'S NOT NUMBERS MATCHING -
>No blue 396021 F engines in a 1969 car
>
>WHAT I DON'T GET - 
>What's up with a clutch pedal (even one that doesn't work) on an automatic
>car?
>
>WHAT I THINK IT IS - 
>1969 442 Holiday Coupe
>no numbers matching
>hot-rodded to hell
>H/O wing on the back, non-functional H/O scoop on the hood, H/O glove box
>emblem
>
>Asking price (and remember, it's advertised as a 1970 H/O) - $1500.  Please.
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
>MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
>2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
>Austin, TX 78722          Home:	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
>                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
>1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	(512) 483-8056
>	Delta 88  RB                   (713) 318-5938
>		4-door
>"The Party Barge"
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88  RB                   (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 12:28:59 -0500
From: "Ian M. C. Dixon" <iand@sbrc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Wheels for a Toro.

Listers,

Are there any decent non-stock (junkyard or new) wheels 
appropriate for replacement on my 1982 Toronado?  I need 15" or 
slightly bigger.

I only ask this one because the stock steel units look like oddballs 
compared to most other American Iron (lots of offset to the inside).

Thanks,

Ian  

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 11:30:21 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Spark plug wire lenght and other questions.

Hi all,
	since I bought my car after it was trashed I've never had stock air 
cleaners,
wiring, or vacuum hose routing to go by so I hope you don't mind the
questions.  I would like to "do it right" when I put the new motor in.

	1) does anyone have a spark plug routing and length diagram?  I see 
lots of
cool custom jobs but I want to keep close to the motor (versus big loops over
the valve covers) and close to stock.  I also need to find out what lengths of
wires to buy.

	2) Isn't there a way to put an old style cap on an HEI and run an 
external
coil?  This would look stock and don't the external coils have more juice?  I
recently bought a MSD-6A and it says it will work with an external coil.

	3) Will an HEI with the coil cap clear a stock '69 air cleaner?  I 
think I've
heard that I need to bash in the cleaner to clear.  I should have bashed up the
cleaner before I painted it, Doh!

	4) Will a Q-Jet from an wrecker car (possibly a 350 or 305) damage my 
new
motor (lean out) if I don't go WOT?  I'd like to break in the motor for a
couple of hundred miles before I take it and the carb over to be tuned.  On the
same note, would I be better off re-building the carb and going to stock '70
455 rods and jets and such before I put it on the engine?  I guess I really
should get a 850 CFM unit for this engine.

	5) Another question, should there be heat shields on both motor 
mounts?  I've
only found one but I assume that there should be 2.  If there was only one then
I would assume it would go on the drivers side.

	f) Is there a web site or book that shows which bolts (length, size, 
and
grade) go where on an Olds engine?  Since I've had the motor out for years I
have a bucket with bolts from 2 or 3 motors and I'm not sure what goes where. 
Some like the tappet covers and the water pump ones are easy but I'm not sure
about the rest.  If worse comes to worse I can always use the old engine for a
template.

	I appreciate any comments.  On a different note, I've received the 
intake and
valve covers back from powder coating and I'm quite pleased.  The copper
metallic is darker but close to the Engine Bronze that is sold for '68-'69 442
engines and the dry coat that they put inside the valve covers looks trick.  If
you wanted to do it right you should have them powdercoat the entire block
before assembly and all components that can take the heat.  I assume that
things like the waterpump would not like being heated to 400 degrees :(

Thanks in advance for any info,
- -- 

Cliff Clueless Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 12:35:30 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: 1969 (Fake) H/O in Austin, TX

I'd like to addendum the following - 
>>Wheels - 

The Performance Radial GTs are in fact P235 60 R15s, not 16-inch tires as
originally reported.

Brakes - 

Discs in front, drums in rear.

I _think_ that's all.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88  RB                   (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 13:44:04 -0400
From: "bob" <bwassell@msn.com>
Subject: RE: Aurora Breakdown... Northstar takes over.

it must have been switching cylinders during the "golf cart" phase.
1 month after getting the car (3 years ago), I hit a truck tire and wheel
that had fallen off the front axle of a truck.  I ran over the wheel (tried
to jump it? :} ) I lost all coolent, oil, trans fluid and brake fluid (not
exaggerating, $10g in damage) and it ran about 1/2 mile so i could get off
the
highway.
the car certianly can take alot.

(I do miss my old iron,though).


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Andrew C. Green
Sent: Thursday, May 13, 1999 12:30 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Aurora Breakdown... Northstar takes over.


>Also, as i drove away, the car performed like an electric
>golf cart, not letting me accelerate at all. the computer
>had put a real mean restriction on any acceleration.

Isn't the Northstar one of those engines that'll run on no coolant by
switching off alternating banks of cylinders? It'll run one bank until the
temperature goes up, then switch to the other, and so on, while you limp
home.

>2 blocks later. Info Screen than said "Engine Hot...
>Turn off now".

Okay, well, maybe not indefinitely.  :-)

I found all kinds of other cool little details buried in the service manual
on my '93 SSEi (Ob. Olds content: Same as the 88.):

o  Distance sensors trigger a warning if the vehicle moves more than 50 feet
with the parking brake on.
o  The ECM will record up to three air-bag deployment "events" in its
memory.
o  Low-speed steering assist boost disengages at 20 mph.
o  The step-up increment of the cruise control is exactly 1 mph each time.
o  The TCC engagement is at precisely 48 mph. (And if you don't believe it,
set the cruise at 47 mph, then press the ACC button just once: BRRRRRM...
kaWhump... brrrrrm... :-)

I'm as big a fan of the old iron as anyone, but there is other fun to be had
with the modern stuff as well...

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 11:09:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: EDMUND WILLIAMS <efw67@yahoo.com>
Subject: 70 DELTA88 /98 PARTS NEEDED/TESTING A CLOCK

Does anyone out there know where I can find the left side park light
assembly(includes the lens and the housing that goes onto the
bumper)for a 1970 88/98? Also, the cigarrette lighter assembly for a
1970 Delta88/98? Preferably in the US? Also, does anyone know how to
test a clock to see if it works, that is not hooked up in a car? Anyone
please help. Ed from New York.

_________________________________________________________
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Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 13:38:06 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Tire & Wheel Prices

How much should I offer for a set of four 15" SSIIs with snap-on caps and
four Performance Radial GT 235 60 R15s with no appreciable wear (if any at
all?)  The wheels do not appear to have any apprecialbe damage to them,
either.

I'm thinking I would like to put these on The Party Barge - who's got an
opinion on how this would look?  I've currently got plain rims and the
super-deluxe wire hub caps with the BIG snap-on rocket emblem covering the
hubcap lock...
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88  RB                   (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 12:00:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Spark plug wire lenght and other questions.

<snip>
> 	3) Will an HEI with the coil cap clear a stock '69
> air cleaner?  I think I've
> heard that I need to bash in the cleaner to clear. 
> I should have bashed up the
> cleaner before I painted it, Doh!
<end snip>

Well, I can't help you out on any of your other
questions, but I do know this. Don't bash the air
cleaner! They sell a spacer that fits on the
Quadrajets. I have one on my car. It lifts the air
cleaner up and off from the carb giving you the
clearance you need for the distributer. The only thing
to watch for is the hood to air cleaner clearance
then.

Del
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 12:19:18 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 70 DELTA88 /98 PARTS NEEDED/TESTING A CLOCK

>Also, does anyone know how to test a clock to see if it
>works, that is not hooked up in a car?

Reposting my answer from last March 11 about this; this should
probably be in the FAQ:

>I was wondering how I can test the clock I recently got out of a
>72 supreme parts car.  I don't think that it works but I would
>like to know how I can test it.  Could I somehow hook it up to
>a battery or battery charger?

A battery will be fine. Hook the (-) lead to the case of the
clock and touch the (+) lead to the terminal on the back.
There'll be a *pop* and a clunk from inside, and you'll think
Oh-my-God-I've-shorted-it-out until you notice the clock is
ticking. The clunk noise comes from the solenoid winding the
mechanism; this repeats every minute or so, and in between
those times the clock just ticks away by itself with no
electrical draw.

If you find that the clock doesn't work at all, and most
likely the adjusting knob on the front is difficult or
impossible to turn, fog some WD-40 on the mechanism
through the backlighting holes in the back. Just a brief
squirt should be all you need, and do not use the extension
nozzle on the can.

Once it's running, adjust it every few days until it's
regulated. Turning the hands more than 20 minutes in either
direction functions to either speed up or slow down the
mechanism slightly, so after a few adjustments it should
keep pretty good time. (Man has been building clocks a lot
longer than cars.  :-)

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 12:15 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Oldsmobile Frown..

John Pajak wrote:

>     Someone (sorry I forgot who) posted a message about a 70-72 bent 
>front Cutlass bumper. That is the infamous "Oldsmobile Frown", 
>usually a result of being towed by a sling-type tow truck.
>     The fix costs nothing and is certainly worth a try. Insert a 2x4 
>in the bumper slot and pick up gently on the 2x4. Alternate this 
>treatment from side to side. You should be able to bend it back into 
>almost perfect shape. These bumpers are actually quite flimsy and can 
>be bent with little effort.
>     It worked for me on my 72 442!!!!!
___________________________________________


Great idea, John! My '72 Supreme too has the infamous bent front 
bumper (I prefer to think of it as the Oldsmobile Sulk rather than the 
Oldsmobile Frown) and I had no inclination to take it off and ship it 
somewhere as all my budget is being used up trying to make my car 
handle better. But a free fix, ahh, that's worth a try any day! Thank 
you!

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme (with Oldsmobile Sulk)
'73 RoadRunner (nice straight, strong bumpers you can pick the car up
                by!)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 15:23:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: Frank Iezzi <fiezzi@gcfn.org>
Subject: Who repairs Delco radios?

Olds friends,
Does anyone have first hand info on who repairs Delco radios?
Any help greatly appreciated.  I have a stereo radio, but one
channel (side) is out...
Thanks in advance for any help/info!
Frank Iezzi
Columbus OH
OCA 5594
69 Cutlass 'S' W-31
and others

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 14:34:28 -0500
From: "Michael W.Johnson" <Cardoc@tcon.net>
Subject: Fw: [Fwd: Fwd: FW: Microsoft Money! Let's Try It!!]

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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> From: SOCKS520@aol.com
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> Cc: JLioness@aol.com; GEINER@aol.com; OPEY765@aol.com
> Subject: Fwd: [Fwd: Fwd: FW: Microsoft Money! Let's Try It!!]
> Date: Thursday, May 13, 1999 10:13 AM
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Therese D. Andrews, Paralegal
Johnson Smith, LLP
One Indiana Square, Suite 1800
Indianapolis, IN  46204
Phone/Fax (317) 686-4242
TAndrews@jsplaw.com
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From: "COOK, RICHARD" <RCOOK@citybeautiful.net>
To: 'Bill Cook' <cookie@cod.nosc.mil>, 'Charlie Davis'
	 <Firesparky@aol.com>, 'Chris Reynolds' <reynolds@hcc.cc.fl.us.>, 
	'Don Vickers' <donvickers@adelphia.net>, "'Dr. Jim'" 
<hirschj@gate.net>, 
	'Ed Correia' <Ecorreia@gateway.net>, 'Greg Hauenstein' 
<Greg@ocpc.org>, 
	'Janet Cosper' <MSJDC@aol.com>, 'Jerry Cook' <Jerry.cook@wofco.com>, 
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Subject: FW: Microsoft Money! Let's Try It!!
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> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Larry Brockett [SMTP:leb@okeechobee.net]
> Sent:	Tuesday, May 11, 1999 8:12 PM
> To:	Lawren Sieder; ED&Verna Van Deman; COOK, RICHARD
> Subject:	Fw: Microsoft Money! Let's Try It!!
> 
> 
> Subject: Microsoft Money! Let's Try It!!
> 
> 
> > Netscape and AOL have recently merged
> > > >  >>      to form the largest internet company in the world.  In
> an
> effort
> > to
> > > >  >>      remain at pace with this giant, Microsoft has
> introduced a
> new
> > email
> > > >  >>      tracking system as a way to keep Internet Explorer as
> the
> most
> > popular
> > > >  >>      browser on the market.  This email is a beta test of
> the new
> > software and
> > > >  >>      Microsoft has  generously offered to compensate those
> who
> > participate in
> > > >  >>      the testing process.  For each person you send this
> email to,
> > you will
> > > >  >>      be given $5.  For  every person they give it to, you
> will be
> > given an
> > > >  >>      additional $3.  For  every person they send it to you
> will
> > receive $1.
> > > >  >>      Microsoft will tally all the emails produced under your
> name
> > over a
> > > >  >>      two week period and then email you with more
> instructions.
> > This beta test is only for Microsoft Windows users because the email
> tracking
> > device that contacts Microsoft is embedded into the code of Windows
> 95 and
> 98.
> > > >  >>
> _______________________________________________________________
> > > >  >>      Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit
> > > >  >>      http://www.msn.com <http://www.msn.com>
> > > >  >>      I know you hate forwards.  But I started this a
> > > >  >>      month ago because I
> > > >  >>      was short on cash.  A week ago I got an email
> > > >  >>      from Microsoft
> > > >  >>      asking me for my address.  I gave it to them and
> > > >  >>      yesterday I got a check
> > > >  >>      in the mail for $800.  It really works.  I wanted
> > > >  >>      you to get a piece of
> > > >  >>      the action.  You won't regret it.
> >

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1955
*********************************

