Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.Ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.Ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1954


oldsmobile-digest       Thursday, May 13 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1954



Re: how much is shipping for bumper?
front bumper shape
GOOD GOD! IT'S SOM'S EVIL TWIN!!!!
Re:  MOPAR blues (TIMING, please HELP)
Re: front bumper shape
Re: Brake Dust
Re: how much is shipping for bumper?
Re: front bumper shape
re: goofy Mopar ceramic resistor (was TIMING, please help)
1953 Olds
a bad day.
Re: Rumble
Pricing
Car Craft (was Engine ID)
Re: Car Craft (was Engine ID)
73 Toronado - come and take it
Re: Car Craft (was Engine ID)
Mopar Timing, again (with Olds content, honest, Greg!)
Re: Reverb
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1953
Re: Pricing
Re: Should we stay single (exhaust).
Re: 1953 Olds
Re: Reverb
Re: Turbo 400 long tail in A-body?
Re: front bumper shape
Oldsmobiles & Star Wars
Timing problem
Re: Timing problem
Holley carb
Having a weak moment  - selling our 1968 Olds 442
Oldsmobile Frown
clutch fan
clutch fan
Re: Oldsmobile Frown
Re: a bad day.
Re: Holley carb
Q-Jet Project.  Grind Away!
Re: Oldsmobiles & Star Wars
Brian and Valvecovers (was :Oldsmobiles & Star Wars)
Re: Q-Jet Project.  Grind Away!
Re: Mopar Timing, again (with Olds content, honest, Greg!)
Re: Brian and Valvecovers (was :Oldsmobiles & Star Wars)
Wiring help please t.i.a.
wiring ?? continued oops

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 16:39:45 EDT
From: Socalolds@aol.com
Subject: Re: how much is shipping for bumper?

George,
Shipping across country UPS is approx $30-35 for a 68 rear bumper.
Dennis

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 16:50:03 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: front bumper shape

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01BE9C97.7B828A60
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

The front bumbers on 70-72 Olds that I have seen are concave on both =
sides of the midline.  I was told that this is not the shape they are =
supposed to be.  The front bumber should be straight on both sides.  =
What is the correct shape?  What has caused it to become bent,  and how =
do I fix it?  There is no obvious damage from an accident.  What strange =
external forces did this to my car?  How do I make them go away?  What =
is the meaning of life?  Will Y2K realy  cause premature hair loss?  Can =
you go 120mph  if your speedo only goes to =
80?..........................oops sorry got out of control there for a =
sec.:)

- ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01BE9C97.7B828A60
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The front bumbers on 70-72 Olds that I have seen are =
concave=20
on both sides of the midline.&nbsp; I was told that this is not the =
shape they=20
are supposed to be.&nbsp; The front bumber should be straight on both=20
sides.&nbsp; What is the correct shape?&nbsp; What has caused it =
to&nbsp;become=20
bent,&nbsp; and how do I fix it?&nbsp; There is no obvious damage from =
an=20
accident.&nbsp; What strange external forces did this to my car?&nbsp; =
How do I=20
make them go away?&nbsp; What is the meaning of life?&nbsp; Will Y2K =
realy&nbsp;=20
cause premature hair loss?&nbsp; Can you go 120mph&nbsp; if your speedo =
only=20
goes to 80?..........................oops sorry got out of control there =
for a=20
sec.:)</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0009_01BE9C97.7B828A60--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 16:55:27 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: GOOD GOD! IT'S SOM'S EVIL TWIN!!!!

This has to be one of the seven signs of the apocolypse :)

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=102971467

Omega Man

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 14:01 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re:  MOPAR blues (TIMING, please HELP)

Igor Todorovic  wrote:

>I know, I know it is not an Olds.  But I have a serious problem with 
>my '81 Mopar van.  The timing seems to be out 100,000 degrees.  There 
>is no sticker or anything under the hood or anywhere so I have no 
>idea what to set it to. PLEASE Help.  I does not have to run great 
>just not detonate and stall. What should I set it to and at what RPM. 
> Thanks a lot.
_________________________________________

Igor, since your van is a '81 and Mopar stopped making big-blocks in 
1979, I'm guessing you have a small block, a 318 or 360. Both those 
engines like a maximum of about 36 degrees of mechanical advance, if 
you have adequate octane gas. On my '73 RoadRunner I couldn't run more 
than 22 degrees of total mechanical advance before I had detonation 
problems.

I don't know what kind of distributor you have, assuming a stock 
distributor advance curve, I would suggest setting it for about 5 
degrees BTDC at idle speed; the engine should start and run at that 
setting. If all you want is a safe, conservative setting, you can jut 
leave it there.

If you want to run all the advance you safely can, disconnect the 
vacuum advance hose, plug the end, and go for a test drive; if you 
hear no pinging at full throttle in top gear, come back and try 
advancing the timing by about 2 degrees, to 7 deg BTDC, and repeat the 
test.  Once you hear pinging, back off the timing about 2 - 5 degrees, 
to give yourself some safety margin for climbing grades and/or the 
occasional tank of bad gas. Reconnect the vacuum advance. If you now 
have part-throttle pinging, you need to reduce the amount of vacuum 
advance; Crane and a couple of other companies make adjustable vacuum 
advance cannisters.

If you want a full, well-written description of what goes into 
ignition timing, get the Mopar Performance "Engines" book from Koller 
Dodge or any other Mopar Performance dealer. This book has volumes of 
info on Mopar engines, including a section on ignition timing that 
goes into considerable depth on the topic, including recurving the 
distributor, etc, etc.

BTW, if you have pinging or detonation, it might be for reasons other 
than ignition timing; a carboned-up engine, excessively lean air/fuel 
mixture, too much oil blowby into the combustion chamber, inadequate 
octane rating, too high a thermostat temperature,  etc, etc, all can 
cause pinging and detonation.

Good luck, I hope you get this cured soon!

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 15:14:46 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@UCALGARY.CA>
Subject: Re: front bumper shape

Hi Steve,

> steve harris wrote:
> 
> The front bumbers on 70-72 Olds that I have seen are concave on both sides of
> the midline.  I was told that this is not the shape they are supposed to be.
> The front bumber should be straight on both sides.  What is the correct
> shape?

Straight.

> What has caused it to become bent,

Improper towing.

> and how do I fix it?

Get it re-stamped when it's re-chromed.

> There is no
> obvious damage from an accident.  What strange external forces did this to my
> car?

A tow truck.

> How do I make them go away?

Give your bumper and a wad O' cash to someone who straightens and chromes
bumpers.

> What is the meaning of life?

56.

> Will Y2K realy  cause premature hair loss?  

No.  The Y2K bug may.

> Can you go 120mph  if your speedo only goes to 80?

Yes.  It's all relative.  For you things will pass at a rate of 80 mph while
for everyone else you will appear to be traveling 120.  You will arrive 1/3 too
soon and will not have aged as much as your twin.

I hope this helps,
- -- 

Cliff "The Oracle" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 14:18 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: Brake Dust

Samuel Johnson wrote:

>My Alloy rims are getting a lot of brake dust on them.  Is that a 
>sign for something bad or should I not worry about it.
_______________________________________

Sam, it's a sign of something very bad, you're using your brakes 
instead of your accelerator! :)

Just kidding, brake dust is normal, nothing to worry about as long as 
you still have enough lining thickness left on your brake pads. How 
much brake-dust your brakes make depends on the type of brake-pad 
material you're using, the weight of your car, and your driving style.

The Firebird 16x8 alloys on my Supreme show brake dust a lot more than 
the original steel wheels did, so I know what you're talking about. 
From the number of wheel-cleaning chemicals at the local auto parts 
store, it seems cleaning brake dust off your shiny alloy wheels is 
just part of life with them.

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 17:24:02 -0400
From: "Randy Geisel" <Rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: how much is shipping for bumper?

If you go UPS ground, shipping shouldn't be too bad. I had a front and rear
bumper for a 70 Cutlass FedEx'ed from CT to PA 2 day and it was $50. I just
shipped 135 lbs of brake parts to Dallas, TX (hi Mickey) UPS ground and it
$60 and some change.

Try this guy tommr@webtv.net he stripped two 68's last year. A 4-door and a
ragtop. He's up here near Philly, PA. Last I heard he still had a bunch of
parts left. Nice guy, I bought a motor from him.

Randy

> Well, I am still looking for offers but in the process I am wondering how
> much is shipping (estimate figure) for a big bumper like the 68 rear???

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 17:43:09 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: front bumper shape

Yes that helped thank you.  The Y2K thing was realy gettin me.:)  Any
suggestions on who I should give the wad-o-cash to for straightening and
rechroming the bumper?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@UCALGARY.CA>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 11:14 AM
Subject: Re: front bumper shape


>
> Hi Steve,
>
> > steve harris wrote:
> >
> > The front bumbers on 70-72 Olds that I have seen are concave on both
sides of
> > the midline.  I was told that this is not the shape they are supposed to
be.
> > The front bumber should be straight on both sides.  What is the correct
> > shape?
>

> Straight.
>
> > What has caused it to become bent,
>
> Improper towing.
>
> > and how do I fix it?
>
> Get it re-stamped when it's re-chromed.
>
> > There is no
> > obvious damage from an accident.  What strange external forces did this
to my
> > car?
>
> A tow truck.
>
> > How do I make them go away?
>
> Give your bumper and a wad O' cash to someone who straightens and chromes
> bumpers.
>
> > What is the meaning of life?
>
> 56.
>
> > Will Y2K realy  cause premature hair loss?
>
> No.  The Y2K bug may.
>
> > Can you go 120mph  if your speedo only goes to 80?
>
> Yes.  It's all relative.  For you things will pass at a rate of 80 mph
while
> for everyone else you will appear to be traveling 120.  You will arrive
1/3 too
> soon and will not have aged as much as your twin.
>
> I hope this helps,
> --
>
> Cliff "The Oracle" Simpson
> mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
> '69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
> http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 14:32 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: re: goofy Mopar ceramic resistor (was TIMING, please help)

Andrew Green wrote:
<snipped>
>Hey, did the '81's still have those goofy ceramic resistors on the 
>firewall? The ones where, when the resistor burned out, the engine 
>would run while the starter was cranking (and the resistor was 
>bypassed), then die as soon as you released the key? Big fun! MoPar 
>owners would always carry a spare in the glovebox. Maybe yours has a 
>loose connection. I had a '79 Diplomat many years ago with that 
>problem; it would die mysteriously at random intervals.
_____________________________________

Andy, the early Mopar ignition module used two resistors, which were 
combined into one dual-resistor ceramic thingy (the goofy resistor you 
mention). Apparently too much heat dissipation in the dual-resistor 
thingy caused them to burn out fairly frequently. 

However, many moons ago, the Mopar engineers figured this out, and for 
a long time now all the replacement Mopar ignition modules have a 
4-pin connector instead of the old 5-pin one, and don't need or use 
the second resistor. You can continue to use the dual-resistor (one 
half has no current draw any more) or change to a single-resistor 
type. Power dissipation is low enough that longevity is not a problem. 
I've never carried a spare, and never been stranded in any of the 
three Mopar's I've owned.  Obviously, Andy, it's time for you to go 
back and get friendly with Mopars again :)

By the way, the 4-pin connector has the same outline as the old 5-pin 
and plugs into the 5-pin harness just fine, so the upgrade is totally 
painless.

Olds content, talking about goofy resistors, what could possibly be 
goofier than an innocent looking wire that actually turns out to be a 
ballast resistor??!!!???  This one I would NEVER have figured out 
except for reading the manual.

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 16:44:00 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: 1953 Olds

All;
Anyone know what a 53, 98 4door is worth? Found one, it was locked up but
looks good (from a cursory exam) A ball park figure would be OK. Going back
to see it more closely.
Lou (Master) Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
oca#31353

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 23:40:22 +0200
From: Trond-Jarle Pedersen <olds69@online.no>
Subject: a bad day.

Hay gang.

just finished my brake/tubular A-arm conversion, sort of,,,
everything worked out fine until i noticed the distance from the fender
to the wheel.
i cant get my finger between them.(yes all the angles ar ok)
I guess the Camaro spindles changes the track widd just a tiny bit. :-(
It was a tight fit with the drums but now it is impossible.
I really liked those wheels :-(
well i guess i have to get me some new one, 
anyone tried the convo,pro`s?

Trond

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 14:43 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: Rumble

Greg Beaulieu wrote:


> The '68 has started to evidence a "rumble" for want of a better 
>word. It > is a low-pitched sound, seems to be coming from the back 
>but hard to tell for sure. Sometimes there, sometimes not, depends on 
>speed. I would suspect exhaust, but unless I'm imagining things there 
>seems to be a different "feel" to the car. Not really a noticeable 
>vibration as much as a lack of smoothness or a sense of grittiness in 
>the feel of the thing.
>
> I dunno where to check or what to look for:
> exhaust?
> rear diff? (hope not!)
> Axle bearings?
> Front wheel bearings?
> U-joints?
> Tranny?
>
><snipped>
________________________________________________

Greg, the only time I experienced something similar, it turned out to 
be the diff :(   .  One thing that might help localize it is to listen 
and see if the rumble changes in tone or intensity when you drive the 
car round a bend - in a turn things in the rear axle shift around 
slightly and on my car the pinion-depth apparently changed enough for 
the rumbling sound to turn into a deeper, scraping sort of sound as I 
went around a turn. Or maybe it was the spider gears, because of the 
two wheels spinning at different rates in a turn.

On the good side, I drove the car for years with the rumble growing 
slowly into fairly loud, cyclic scraping sounds, and while the problem 
was obviously getting worse, there's a lot of meat in those gears and 
nothing failed. Shortly after the rumble arrived I took off the diff 
cover, cleaned everything out, put in new lube, and just kept driving.

(I apologize for abusing a car this way, I was in grad. school at the 
time and just didn't have the money to fix the diff, not if I also 
expected to eat and pay my rent! By the way the car in question was a 
'74 Mopar - a Plymouth Satellite Custom - with the  8 1/4" rear.)

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 17:05:15 -0500
From: Mark <greenmm@earthlink.net>
Subject: Pricing

A lot of people have been asking about pricing lately.

  In response, I have an Old Cars Price Guide.

  How accurate is this?  Would this help any of you out?

  Mark MacDonald
  1975 Olds Delta 88
  <http://home.earthlink.net/~greenmm>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 14:52 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Car Craft (was Engine ID)

>The guys at Chevvy Craft did throw a bone or two to Olds in other 
>articles, but the tiny blurb for spotting Olds BB's was laughable.
________________________________

For those of you who haven't seen a copy of Car Craft lately, the 
magazine has been VERY different since David Freiburger took over as 
editor.  Back when he worked for Hot Rod he was the sole Mopar guy on 
that magazine; now he's turned Car Craft into a very eclectic 
magazine, featuring AMC's, Buicks, Olds, Mopars, and yes, Fords and 
Chevy's. Also the magazine is full of low-cost buildups and stuff that 
the average joe on the average joe's income can use. I would say the 
old "Camaro Craft" and "Chevy Craft" nicknames are no longer very good 
fits.

I used to have no use for Car Craft at all a couple of years ago, it 
only featured megabuck Chevy's, but lately it's been my favorite car 
magazine. And yes, I'll say it before someone else does, they do 
sometimes make mistakes about things Oldsian (& Mopar), but they're 
still my favorite car mag!

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 18:14:07 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Car Craft (was Engine ID)

I agree with John the mag is much better now.  I was going to let my
subscription pass as well.  The new editor is better,  and they now cover a
nice selection.  I think they need more Olds stuff tho.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: John Carri <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 2:52 PM
Subject: Car Craft (was Engine ID)


>
> >The guys at Chevvy Craft did throw a bone or two to Olds in other
> >articles, but the tiny blurb for spotting Olds BB's was laughable.
> ________________________________
>
> For those of you who haven't seen a copy of Car Craft lately, the
> magazine has been VERY different since David Freiburger took over as
> editor.  Back when he worked for Hot Rod he was the sole Mopar guy on
> that magazine; now he's turned Car Craft into a very eclectic
> magazine, featuring AMC's, Buicks, Olds, Mopars, and yes, Fords and
> Chevy's. Also the magazine is full of low-cost buildups and stuff that
> the average joe on the average joe's income can use. I would say the
> old "Camaro Craft" and "Chevy Craft" nicknames are no longer very good
> fits.
>
> I used to have no use for Car Craft at all a couple of years ago, it
> only featured megabuck Chevy's, but lately it's been my favorite car
> magazine. And yes, I'll say it before someone else does, they do
> sometimes make mistakes about things Oldsian (& Mopar), but they're
> still my favorite car mag!
>
> -John Carri
> '72 Supreme
> '73 RoadRunner
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 17:09:13 -0700
From: "Brett Wilson" <bwilson@dmotorworks.com>
Subject: 73 Toronado - come and take it

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01BE9C9A.291CC300
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

The car is a 73 Toro with everything but the engine.
It has the transmission intact, good interior, power everything (it all =
works too).
It has been hit in the rear but was still drivable.
I just don't want it to darken my driveway any more.
COME AND TAKE IT FOR FREE!!

It is in Austin Texas
My number is 441-7660 home
797-0024 cell

Brett Wilson
67 Cutlass Convertible 455
System Analyst
Digital Motorworks
bwilson@dmotorworks.com
512-349-9360 ext#303

- ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01BE9C9A.291CC300
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT size=3D3>The car is a 73 Toro with =
everything but=20
the engine.</FONT></FONT><FONT size=3D3></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT size=3D3></FONT></FONT><FONT =
size=3D3>It has the=20
transmission intact, good interior, power everything (it all works=20
too).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D3>It has been hit in the rear but was still=20
drivable.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D3>I just don't want it to darken my driveway any=20
more.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D3><FONT color=3D#000000>COME AND TAKE IT FOR=20
FREE!!</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT size=3D3></FONT></FONT><FONT=20
size=3D3></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D3>It is in Austin Texas</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D3>My number is 441-7660 home</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D3>797-0024 cell</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D3></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000><FONT size=3D3>Brett =
Wilson<BR></FONT></FONT><FONT=20
size=3D3>67 Cutlass Convertible 455</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D3>System Analyst<BR>Digital=20
Motorworks<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:bwilson@dmotorworks.com">bwilson@dmotorworks.com</A><BR>51=
2-349-9360=20
ext#303</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_000F_01BE9C9A.291CC300--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 17:34:11 -0500
From: Mark <greenmm@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Car Craft (was Engine ID)

Well, as those who get Car Craft, vote for your issue!  I am voting all
Olds related (why not?)

I like the Olds in the last issue as well!  Of course, that may just be
me ;)


Mark MacDonald
1975 Olds Delta 88 Conv.
<http://home.earthlink.net/~greenmm>


steve harris wrote:
> 
> I agree with John the mag is much better now.  I was going to let my
> subscription pass as well.  The new editor is better,  and they now cover a
> nice selection.  I think they need more Olds stuff tho.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: John Carri <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 2:52 PM
> Subject: Car Craft (was Engine ID)
> 
> >
> > >The guys at Chevvy Craft did throw a bone or two to Olds in other
> > >articles, but the tiny blurb for spotting Olds BB's was laughable.
> > ________________________________
> >
> > For those of you who haven't seen a copy of Car Craft lately, the
> > magazine has been VERY different since David Freiburger took over as
> > editor.  Back when he worked for Hot Rod he was the sole Mopar guy on
> > that magazine; now he's turned Car Craft into a very eclectic
> > magazine, featuring AMC's, Buicks, Olds, Mopars, and yes, Fords and
> > Chevy's. Also the magazine is full of low-cost buildups and stuff that
> > the average joe on the average joe's income can use. I would say the
> > old "Camaro Craft" and "Chevy Craft" nicknames are no longer very good
> > fits.
> >
> > I used to have no use for Car Craft at all a couple of years ago, it
> > only featured megabuck Chevy's, but lately it's been my favorite car
> > magazine. And yes, I'll say it before someone else does, they do
> > sometimes make mistakes about things Oldsian (& Mopar), but they're
> > still my favorite car mag!
> >
> > -John Carri
> > '72 Supreme
> > '73 RoadRunner
> >
> >

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 15:48 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Mopar Timing, again (with Olds content, honest, Greg!)

Sounds good.  Timing was OKAY until I started to mess with it to 'tune 
it' to the best of my ability.  It all started when I beat my friends 
Chevy truck (350, headers, Intake, 3.73s) with this Van and then he 
did something to beat me so I wanted revenge.  I tried two different 
carbs, same story.
The motor is a 367 (360 .030 over), RV cam, only about 30,000 miles on 
it (so decent timing chain), tight belts, RWD of course, no vacuum 
leak, and terrible timing.  It is the timing because I move it and it 
gets better/worst significantly including detonations and so on.  I 
had it set at 6 deg. BTDC @ about 800 RPM, and it did not hesitate or 
anything but just didn't pull worth crap.  I will try 12 deg..  The 
thing has a 727 trans and 4.10s.  I bet it will beat that Camaro (that 
is my plan).  If you ever saw this van, you would laugh.  The body is 
so bad that entire pieces of it are missing.  Imagine that pulling 
ahead of a nice, new paint and motor, TBI IROC-Z.  HA HA.
______________________________

Igor, stock Mopar distributors were often designed to run with little 
initial advance at idle, so they have a lot of mechanical advance 
built into them. When you increase the initial advance as high as 12 
degrees, you often have to modify the distributor to reduce the total 
mechanical advance, otherwise the combination of more initial and too 
much mechanical advance gets you detonation.

You can decrease the amount of mechanical advance built into the 
distributor by welding up the slots that limit travel of the weights, 
or you can heat the metal around the slot with a torch, clamp the part 
upright in a vice, and hammer on the end with a small piece of tubing 
between the hammer and the part to bend the metal and shorten the 
slot. I'll try to explain with some horrible ASCII art below.

       ---------
          ____  |
 slot -->(____) | <---- hammer here
                |
       ---------


       ---------|
          ___  /
         (___( |  <- end becomes concave after hammering; slot gets 
               \     shorter at same time
       ---------|


The Crane adjustable vacuum advance cannister comes with 3 different 
springs to recurve the distributor, making the mechanical advance come 
in earlier (at lower rpm), too, which made a big, seat-of-the-pants 
difference to the acceleration in my 340 powered RoadRunner. Actually 
this made more of a seat-of-the-pants difference than anything else I 
did to that car! Well worth a try.

Also, that 1981 carb is probably *very* lean. Anything you can do to 
tune it or replace it with an older carb will probably help your 
engine make more power.

The Mopar 360 has ten more cubes than a Chevy 350, a better rod-stroke 
ratio of 1.71:1 which means less energy lost in internal friction, and 
1.88 /1.6" valves which are bigger than most 350 Chevy truck motors 
which have 1.5" exhaust valves. Stock Mopar heads have an 18-degree 
valve angle, which only race Chevy heads have; this angle lets the 
valves open on-centre in the cylinder, meaning that there is less 
valve shrouding in a Mopar small-block for the same valve sizes as 
there is in a Chevy, or the Mopar can use bigger valves for the same 
amount of shrouding.

Lots of technical advantages on your side, now take them and go beat 
that Chevy! May the force be with you!

Olds content:

Well, I finally got new polyurethane lower-control-arm bushings and 
new lower balljoints into my Supreme this last weekend. In order to 
get the swap done over a single weekend, I got junkyard lower A-arms 
off a '72 Monte Carlo, rebuilt those, and then swapped them in for the 
arms in my car. Getting those old bushings out is one of the most 
tedious, exhausting, slow, difficult mechanical chores I've ever done; 
one of them had an outer shell that had somehow peened itself over at 
both ends, so that there was a "flange" at each end of the outer shell 
on that bushing, and no way to press it back out of the arm! I ended 
up using a grinding wheel to grind away the "flange" before I could 
even start to press it out. I had no access to a press, I was using a 
bench vice, a piece of ordinary household iron water-pipe slipped over 
the vice's handle to gain extra leverage, and several pieces of 
aluminium piping of various lengths and diameters that I was using as 
receivers and bushing drivers in the vice. It took me over 6 hours of 
hot, tiring ,sweaty labour before I finally got all 4 bushings pressed 
out and the 4 replacement poly ones pressed in. The new bushings (from 
Energy Suspension) had outer shells that looked much thicker and more 
sturdy than the GM originals. The ball-joints in the arms I was 
rebuilding had been hammered on at some time and the threads were all 
messed up, so I pressed them out with the bench vice, and then tried 
to press in new Moog replacements. After another 3-4 hours of 
struggling with them (they would go in part way, cock to one side or 
the other, and then bind totally, requiring me to press them back out 
and start over) I finally gave up and called around, eventually 
locating an auto parts store near my office that pressed them in for 
me in their nice big 12-ton hydraulic press. Well worth the $15 they 
charged me for pressing in both balljoints!

During the weekend I also discovered that cheap pickle-forks made in 
China and sold at AutoZone will bend, deform, flow like silly-putty, 
and turn into works of abstract art when used to try to separate the 
spindle from the balljoint on an Olds Supreme, all without actually 
separating anything. Fortunately my neighbour had a spindle-seperator 
tool made by OTC that worked wonderfully well. Wonder where I could 
get one of those?

BTW, my new Moog ball-joints came with an instruction sheet that 
stated very clearly "NEVER hammer directly on the spindle, or on the 
ball-joint stud".  I mention this since several listees talked about 
using a combination of a pickle fork or separator tool and  hammering 
on the spindle near the ball-joint taper at the same time. Hammering 
on the spindle can start stress-risers or hairline cracks that could 
leave you suddenly minus a tire,a wheel and steering control some day 
while you're doing 75 mph around a bend on the freeway.......

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme (with new LCA poly bushings and balljoints)
'73 RoadRunner (needs total front-end rebuild)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 15:59 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: Reverb

They used to sell the same things (spring reverb units) for use with 
electric guitars; they have a spring inside, a little doohicky very 
like a small loudspeaker vibrates one end of the spring; the 
vibrations travel down the spring (just the way a slinky behaves, but 
faster as the spring is smaller and not as heavy) and finally reaches 
the other end, where it shakes a doohicky like a microphone, which 
turns the vibrations back into electricity. The vibrations then bounce 
off the far end of the spring and head back to the beginning, then 
bounce back again, and so on and so on, making the reverberating sound 
of multiple fading echoes closely spaced in time. Tends to make the 
hearer think he/she is listening in a large hall, hence the "spacey" 
or quasi-stereo sound.

Modern reverbs use digital electronics to convert the incoming signal 
into numbers, store them in memory, and then read them out multiple 
times with short delays between each readout. Gets you much cleaner 
reverb, and no pickup of outside noises. My company, Alesis Studio 
Electronics, makes these modern reverbs as well as many other audio 
products for musicians.

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner
(and a couple of electric guitars, and an Alesis Wedge reverb unit..)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 19:19:40 EDT
From: Bear995@aol.com
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1953

please delete me from this list. Thanxxxxxx Lonnie

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 19:35:05 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: Pricing

In a message dated 5/12/99 5:57:52 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
greenmm@earthlink.net writes:

<< A lot of people have been asking about pricing lately.
 
   In response, I have an Old Cars Price Guide.
 
   How accurate is this?  Would this help any of you out?
 
   Mark MacDonald >>

I would say its about as accurate as factory gauges!!!!  Never found much use 
for that guide.....Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 19:41:41 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Should we stay single (exhaust).

Umm....is a cat back dual system practical for the 65?

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 20:12:41 -0700
From: "Peter Berusch" <berusch@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 1953 Olds

Yo, D.L., there are lots and lots of variables, but around here 54's are
bringing, in a running state, in the area of 2.5 - 3.5 long for foe doe
sedans.  Raggers seem to command a bit more.  One of our chapters' members
just walked away from an offer of thirty K.  Not '53's, I know, but not far
off the mark, either.  Peter.


- -----Original Message-----
From: Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net>
To: Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 2:43 PM
Subject: 1953 Olds


>All;
>Anyone know what a 53, 98 4door is worth? Found one, it was locked up but
>looks good (from a cursory exam) A ball park figure would be OK. Going back
>to see it more closely.
>Lou (Master) Biggs
>lbiggs@intertek.net
>oca#31353

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 20:24:19 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Reverb

<snip>
... which
turns the vibrations back into electricity. The vibrations then bounce
off the far end of the spring and head back to the beginning, then
bounce back again, and so on....
- -----------------------------------------

Very good description, John. These puppies were also available in 2-spring
(stereo) versions. Typical installation was to connect the input to the
front speaker, and the reverb's output to the rear speaker.

If your reverb is the "spring" transducer part only, you need an amplifier
to go with it. Most had the amp built in, so all you gotta do is figure out
what wires are gozinta's, gozouta's, power and ground. If you can't figure
that out, look inside. The transducer will be connected in the input side of
things.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 20:33:57 EDT
From: Harrell17@aol.com
Subject: Re: Turbo 400 long tail in A-body?

Dude, I recently took a 455/400TH out of a 72 Ninety Eight and put it in a 72 
Cutlass Conv. where a 350/350 once was. I had the motor and tranny rebuilt 
completely not knowing how much longer that tranny was than the short shaft 
400TH. The holes that are provided in the frame did not accomodate the 
crossmember. I had to drill hole behing that section of holes for the rear 
crossmember holes.  I had a complete drive shaft built and it seems to work 
fine.  The frame on a conv. is different than a hard top so I don't know if 
it would be easier on a  Hard Top. It fits real tight in the tunnel but there 
is clearence between the floor and the tranny. If I had to do it all over 
again, and I wouldn,t have had that tranny already overhauled, I would 
probably look for a short shaft to put in it. It will work, it just is a 
little bit different. Good Luck,  Jim

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 22:01:54 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: front bumper shape

steve harris wrote:
> 
> The front bumbers on 70-72 Olds that I have seen are concave on both
> sides of the midline.  I was told that this is not the shape they are
> supposed to be.  The front bumber should be straight on both sides.
> What is the correct shape?  What has caused it to become bent,  and
> how do I fix it?  There is no obvious damage from an accident.  What
> strange external forces did this to my car?  How do I make them go
> away?  

Well sir, I can't help you with the other questions, but the bumpers on
your car being bowed is probably yhe result of it being towed with a
sling under the bumper.  Same thing would happen to the Buick Skylark
style bumpers in that they were very large in area and were not heavy
enough to support the cars weight when the tow driver used the sling
WITHOUT putting a piece of wood between the car and the towing
mechanism.  And as to how to fix it, wherever you have the bumpers
rechromed should be able to straighten that out for you easily if they
know what they are doing.  As for the meaning of life, I am trying to
figure out that one myself.  And yes, if the speedo registers only 80,
the car is still capable of going in excess of that quite nicely
assuming the ability to do so is present.....

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 21:08:11 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Oldsmobiles & Star Wars

The Party Barge and I camped out for tickets last night...I'll trade
someone two tickets, opening day, at the newest theatre in Austin for a 455.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88  RB                   (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 22:18:16 -0400
From: "phil giannotta" <henkey@mich.com>
Subject: Timing problem

I have  recently purchased a 70 cutlass supreme. I went to check the timing
and found the gauge plate for the timing mark is missing. Is it
mechanically fastened to the timing cover or is it tach welded on ?  I have
a 350 . Also, the motor is hard to turn over when it is warmed up which is
why I was checking the timing .

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 22:35:18 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Timing problem

In a message dated 5/12/99 7:18:29 PM Pacific Daylight Time, henkey@mich.com 
writes:

<< I have  recently purchased a 70 cutlass supreme. I went to check the timing
 and found the gauge plate for the timing mark is missing. Is it
 mechanically fastened to the timing cover or is it tach welded on ?  I have
 a 350 . Also, the motor is hard to turn over when it is warmed up which is
 why I was checking the timing . >>

	I'm assuming the timing tab is similar to my 403, and 307's, in which 
case it is held on bby one bolt, and a stud, on the timing chain cover. Check 
the battery terminals for corrosion. Sounds kind of unlikely in your 
situation, but my hard starting (even cold) was/is constant corrosion on the 
battery terminals. And it's easy to check. 			
										
					Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 22:50:07 -0400
From: "phil giannotta" <henkey@mich.com>
Subject: Holley carb

I have a 70 supreme with a 350 4 bbl holley . There is a small set of
numbers on the front  of the carb. All I can make out is 1850-4.  Is this a
850 or do I need more info? My car is a long way from being original . Can I
assume I will get better performance from a properly tuned holley or should
I switch to the original quadrajet I picked up off a parts car?
Back to the holley. IT appears to be running rich. Are the mixture screws
the small single screw on each side of the front of the throttle body ? If
so any tips on adjusting the mixture would be appreciated.      Thanks
Phil Giannotta

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 23:04:47 -0700
From: "Haydock-Hanley Family" <haydock.hanley@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Having a weak moment  - selling our 1968 Olds 442

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0065_01BE9CCB.D4B3CD40
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I never thought the day would come that I would part with the turnpike =
cruiser.  But the garage is full, the kids want more of our time, just =
purchased a summer cottage, the business is going crazy and we just =
don't have enough time.  Welcome to mid-life, I guess!!  Some of you may =
recognize the car from the Olds Nationals over the past few years. Great =
car - I'll probably regret selling it, but we still have the 455-4speed =
and the convertible (how many cars does a guy really need?,eh?)  Hope =
others don't mind too much but here is the link to the ebay auction:

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3D103519442




Mark Hanley
Kingston, Ontario CANADA

1956 Olds 98
1968 442 Conv (restored)
1968 442 Turnpike Cruiser (restored)
1968 Cutlass 455-4spd (modified)
1968 Cutlass-Elcamino "morph" (in progress)
Several 1968 442 and Cutlass parts cars
1997 Olds Achieva (not Oldsmobile's finest 100th anniversary =
automobile!)





- ------=_NextPart_000_0065_01BE9CCB.D4B3CD40
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I never thought the day would come =
that I would=20
part with the turnpike cruiser.&nbsp; But the garage is full, the kids =
want more=20
of our time, just purchased a summer cottage, the business is going =
crazy and we=20
just don't have enough time.&nbsp; Welcome to mid-life, I guess!!&nbsp; =
Some of=20
you may recognize the car from the Olds Nationals over the past few =
years. Great=20
car - I'll probably regret selling it, but we still have the 455-4speed =
and the=20
convertible (how many cars does a guy really need?,eh?)&nbsp; Hope =
others don't=20

mind too much but here is the link to the ebay auction:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3D10351944=
2">http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;item=3D103519442=
</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Mark Hanley<BR>Kingston, Ontario CANADA<BR><BR>1956 Olds 98<BR>1968 =
442=20
Conv (restored)<BR>1968 442 Turnpike Cruiser (restored)<BR>1968 Cutlass =
455-4spd=20
(modified)<BR>1968 Cutlass-Elcamino &quot;morph&quot; (in =
progress)<BR>Several=20
1968 442 and Cutlass parts cars<BR>1997 Olds Achieva (not Oldsmobile's =
finest=20
100th anniversary automobile!)<BR><BR><BR><BR></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0065_01BE9CCB.D4B3CD40--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 23:05:32 -0400
From: "John Pajak" <jspajak@us.hsanet.net>
Subject: Oldsmobile Frown

     Someone (sorry I forgot who) posted a message about a 70-72 bent front
Cutlass bumper. That is the infamous "Oldsmobile Frown", usually a result of
being towed by a sling-type tow truck.
     The fix costs nothing and is certainly worth a try. Insert a 2x4 in the
bumper slot and pick up gently on the 2x4. Alternate this treatment from
side to side. You should be able to bend it back into almost perfect shape.
These bumpers are actually quite flimsy and can be bent with little effort.
     It worked for me on my 72 442!!!!!

John Pajak
http://drive.to/pajak

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 23:32:58 -0400
From: "Mike McLeod" <mikemcleod@msn.com>
Subject: clutch fan

I replaced my clutch fan today in hopes of controlling the engine temps in a
more reasonable range. It seemed to work, drove on the highway for about a
half hour at 65. The factory temp gage indicated a lower temp then it has
been reading. That made me very happy :-).I was wondering if any of the list
members would know if the fan clutch I took off was an original part? The
number on the part is 05749. Made in the USA by Thermo Trol tm. Also can
this part be rebuilt if it is original? Thanks

Michael McLeod

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 23:35:53 -0400
From: "Mike McLeod" <mikemcleod@msn.com>
Subject: clutch fan

I guess it would help if I mentioned the car it was out of. woops. 70  W-30.

Michael McLeod
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 23:53:39 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobile Frown

John Pajak wrote:

> These bumpers are actually quite flimsy and can be bent with little effort.
>      It worked for me on my 72 442!!!!!
> 

It's true.  I'm amazed that as much steel as there is in these cars, the
bumpers are so flimsy.  They're purely cosmetic, the metal's as thick as
in a fender.  Ever looked at the braces for these things?  They're very
heavy duty, probably about 3/16" steel, then that wimpy bumper is bolted
to them.  I think the buick bumpers are slightly stronger, they're
noticeably heavier.

The rear bumper on the Vista Cruiser had a similar problem.  Many moons
ago my dad used it to pull a buddy when he got stuck in the snow.  Bent
the hell out of the back bumper.  It was easily straightented.  Two
years ago I got hit in the passenger side quarter and the bumper got
just as twisted and mangled as the quarter.  Peeled it rearward too.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais
73 98 LS

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 23:13:56 -0500 (CDT)
From: blue442@webtv.net (Jeff Carter)
Subject: Re: a bad day.

Hi Trond,
It seemed to me the Camaro spindles made my 442's track wider, but I
didn't measure.  You must have some pretty wide or offset tires to be
that close to the fender.  Cool!  I think the stock Olds wheel width and
position deep in the wheel well look a little weak. 

I've mounted 5-6 sets of Convo-Pros on local drag cars.  The wheels are
very light and true.  They also look great.  They should work well for
you.  You might take a look at the Telstar wheel, also by Centerline.
It's in the Terminator series, style 13.  It a 5 spoke wheel too.  I
think the 5 spoke design is a must on an Olds.

Jeff Carter

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 00:19:42 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Holley carb

phil giannotta wrote:

> I have a 70 supreme with a 350 4 bbl holley . There is a small set of
> numbers on the front  of the carb. All I can make out is 1850-4.  Is this a
> 850 or do I need more info?

It's a 600 CFM carb.  FYI, Holley has a few different basic models and several
(as in, gobs) of variants within each model family.  These variants are 
referred
to as a "List Number."  The list number 1850-4 is one of scores of variants 
that
all fall under the basic model 4160 -- one of Holley's most popular models.

> My car is a long way from being original . Can I
> assume I will get better performance from a properly tuned holley or should
> I switch to the original quadrajet I picked up off a parts car?

Depends.  Refer to my signature block below.  I swap back and forth from Q-jet
to Holley (mine's an 1850-3 -- almost identical to yours).  My Q-Jet is numbers
matching for my Cutlass and still it's original factory calibration.  The 
Holley
is some swap meet item a friend gave me and I spent a lot of time tuning it to
my car.  I think the Holley is snappier on acceleration and generally a little
gutsier.  I can also get acceptable fuel economy from it.  However, it's not as
forgiving of lead-footedness as the Q-Jet.

> Back to the holley. IT appears to be running rich.

Naw...really?!  Seriously, that's not unusual.  They need to be set up right 
for
the car they're on.  The 1850 List series carbs are "universal" units and are
usually just in the ballpark for the car they're on.

> Are the mixture screws
> the small single screw on each side of the front of the throttle body ?

Yes.  Each screw adjusts the idle mixture for the primary bore of the side it's
on.

> If
> so any tips on adjusting the mixture would be appreciated.

My Holley is set up with size 63 jets, as opposed to the original 66's (your
carb also is originally equipped with 66's).  I'm using a brown secondary
diaphragm spring, which is slightly stiffer than the original plain spring
(again, the same on your carb).  I also have a number 6 power valve -- opens at
6 in/Hg of vacuum.

To set the idle mixture, lightly seat the mixture screws.  Back them out 1 1/2
turns.  Warm up the car and adjust the idle speed screw to the proper curb
idle.  At this point, Holley recommends adjusting the idle mixture screws
equally for the highest possible manifold vacuum reading.

If you don't have a vacuum gauge adjust each screw equally JUST to the point
where you get the highest idle speed and reset the curb idle if necessary.
Honestly, I ended up just leaving my mixture screws out exactly 1 1/2 turns.
That's where the proper speed was achieved for me.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/dual exhaust/
        sometimes Q-Jet, sometimes Holley/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 00:58:18 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Q-Jet Project.  Grind Away!

Well, I figured I'd inform ya'll of my current tinkerin' project.  I've
accumulated a few Dremel grinding and cutting attachments and have begun
"hogging" out one of my Q-Jets (not the numbers-matching one).   Many
thanks to John Carri for supplying me with info pertinent to this
project.  Anyhoo, here is my progress:

1.  The flat bottom on the primary fuel transfer tube is now tapered,
giving the tube a more aerodynamic, teardrop shape.
2.  The little extension opposite the fuel transfer tube is gone.

Things to do:

1.  Shave the thottle shafts (not an extreme amount, though -- just make
them more streamlined).
2.  Slightly knife-edge the throttle plates.
3.  Get rid of the multitudes of casting flash in the secondaries.
4.  Grind the threads off the exposed threads on the through-bolts in
the secondaries.
5.  Radius the airhorn.  Maybe even fabricate a Q-Jet "stub stack" of
sorts.
6.  I'm sure I'll think of other things.

ALSO...Today (13 May) is my 10th Anniversary.  My wife is too cool.  Did
I tell ya'll she bought me a  225 amp Lincoln Electric arc welder last
Christmas?  Is that love or what!

- --
Thomas P. Smith
  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/dual exhaust/
        sometimes Q-Jet, sometimes Holley/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 23:04:37 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmobiles & Star Wars

> The Party Barge and I camped out for tickets last night...I'll trade
> someone two tickets, opening day, at the newest theatre in Austin for a
455.

Sounds like a good deal.  Looks like the Party Barge will get a BB Olds
(with valvecovers, I hope) after all.  Good choice.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 23:08:56 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Brian and Valvecovers (was :Oldsmobiles & Star Wars)

Brian,

    I always make fun of you about that stupid valvecover that you changed
10 times.  Well, my friend (also Brian) with his Chevy 350 Truck is now on
his fourth valve cover gasket/silicon change in two weeks.  Seems that such
thing as bad luck with these things exists.  That same guy just got a slow
ass Camaro with a 305 and a leaky valvecover.  Needless to say, he is not
going to dare to attempt it himself.

Olds content.....I just installed my chrome Edelbrock valvecovers that I got
for Christmas on my 455 and guess what......NO LEAK......used silicon only.
Olds and its 10 bolt valvecovers sure beat a stupid Chevy 4 bolt design.

Igor.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 00:10:44 -0500 (CDT)
From: blue442@webtv.net (Jeff Carter)
Subject: Re: Q-Jet Project.  Grind Away!

Some time back I posted saying a relative of mine had a big cfm Q-jet on
his truck.  I was wrong. It was just a plain model.  I had probably
assumed it was special because it's on a freaking huge tow motor.

Sorry y'all
Jeff Carter

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 23:19:50 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Mopar Timing, again (with Olds content, honest, Greg!)

> Igor, stock Mopar distributors were often designed to run with little
> initial advance at idle, so they have a lot of mechanical advance
> built into them. When you increase the initial advance as high as 12
> degrees, you often have to modify the distributor to reduce the total
> mechanical advance, otherwise the combination of more initial and too
> much mechanical advance gets you detonation.


Thanks for lots of good info.  Good to hear from a MOPAR guy giving advice
to a very new MOPAR guy.  So, all I want is stock performance.  The van has
a Holley 1850 (600 CFM) with 68 jets and a black secondary spring.  It sits
on a original intake with a spacer and NO vacuum leaks (already checked).  I
will try to set the timing at about 5 degrees and go from there.  Will try
the 2 degree incriments like you said.  Those jets are obviously a little
too big so I guess I should put some smaller ones in.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 00:36:25 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: Brian and Valvecovers (was :Oldsmobiles & Star Wars)

>Olds content.....I just installed my chrome Edelbrock valvecovers that I got
>for Christmas on my 455 and guess what......NO LEAK......used silicon only.
>Olds and its 10 bolt valvecovers sure beat a stupid Chevy 4 bolt design.

Olds' early 10-bolt valvecovers sure beat Olds late (i.e. the kind I have)
5-bolt valvecovers.

You will be pleased to know, Igor, that the driver's side valvecover (NOT
the side that I had all the problems with, that side is just fine) is now
leaking.  This was the side that my more-knowledgeable (at the time, at
least) friend did.  It took several months, but now there's a little bit of
oil leaking down the lower front and onto the manifold.  It's not bad, so
it's occupying only the very far recesses of my mind (my Accounting and
Finance finals pretty much have a hold on the frontal lobes - yes, I camped
knowing I had two finals to study for, what can I say...)

The only positive things I can say about the driver's side is that you a)
don't have to rearrange the A/C assembly (as well as all the other CRAP on
the passenger's side, not to mention having to take the smog pump pulley
off etc.) to get to the cover and b) I have a spare gasket (from having to
buy another pair because of my (mis)adventures) to do the repair with.

Silicon on the valve cover side only, and a LITTLE bit on the bolt holes -
torque to hand-tightness only with a socket screwdriver.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88  RB                   (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: 12 May 99 23:27:55 PDT
From: Randy Hermsen <76Cutlass@netscape.net>
Subject: Wiring help please t.i.a.

Hello list members ,
    As you might know I bought a 72 cutlass conv. it came with no starter or
gen. or dash board ..the dash is complete and in the basement waiting to be
installed completion was due to perfect model I pulled from another car...Ive
installed rebuilt starter gen,changed oil squirted oil down into cylinders
when installing new plugs...car hasnt been started in approx. 4-7 yrs. not
sure from paper work also done all work with no manuel my 76 olds is a diff.
system no external regulator not a good model to work from .On 72 Ive got no
problem with gen wire-1 heavy red 1 small blue and 1 small white on clip with
blue.On starter small purple and yellow connected no prob. big red to pos.on
batt.no prob.heavy red also from starter no idea where it should go???wire is
same grade as heavy red on gen.#10 ??
 On main junction blk.or horn relay you know where they all come together on
the fire wall...I have 2 heavy red 1 is fuseable linked and 2 med red smaller
gage like purple and yellow from starter...I really want to turn the key soon
but dont want to blow new starter or gen. or reg.Im not a wireing brain only
have 73 77 service man. 64 72 parts book lookin to go too big swap meet comin
up cloverdale B.C. CANADA and buy service man. for 72 cutlass supreme conv. OH
ALMOST FORGOT installing new points tomorrow cant findout what gap I should
intially gap them at before buying dwell meter and setting it up better later
....havnt done points in 15 yrs.since I owned my 68 chevelle oops said the
chevy word  lol thanks in advance all wish me luck when I turn her over she
sounded real good when I turned her by hand piston with no plugs in
shooosh....shwooosh first oil move through her in a long time....
                      Randy
                       76 cutlass supreme fat sway bars edelbrock intake      
                                      swivel buckets duals
                         72 cutlass supreme conv.
                             sittin pretty on blocks ready almost to 
                                                                rocket

____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at ht
tp://webmail.netscape.com.

------------------------------

Date: 12 May 99 23:58:48 PDT
From: Randy Hermsen <76Cutlass@netscape.net>
Subject: wiring ?? continued oops

Sorry started to ramble last post was mentioning main junc. or horn relay on
fire wall ...my guess is the spare red from starter heavy gage should go to
main juncton blk.-due to fact mounting bolt very loose like someone removed a
fuseable link here and never replaced it???anyone gotr a scanner or fax to
send me wireing chart 72 cutlass ??? gotta buy a book 
               T.I.A.
                      Randy 
                         76 cutlass supreme
                           72 cutlass supreme conv.
                             

____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://webmail.netscape.com.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1954
*********************************

