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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1913


oldsmobile-digest       Monday, April 19 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1913



More Starting problems
Re: Olds 3.42 or 3.91 ring & pinion
Re: Olds 3.42 or 3.91 ring & pinion
Chassis manual
Black Lacquer Preimer
pinning harmonic balancer  - not a good idea!
Meeting place/time? Was:Re: Carlisle - Who's going?
Re: Meeting place/time? Was:Re: Carlisle - Who's going?
Changed my rear suspension
Re: Meeting place/time? Was:Re: Carlisle - Who's going?
Re: Changed my rear suspension
Re: Meeting place/time? Was:Re: Carlisle - Who's going?
Re: Meeting place/time? Was:Re: Carlisle - Who's going?
Re: Meeting place/time? Was:Re: Carlisle - Who's going?
starter solenoid & motor  (was: my olds won't start)
rubber fuel-lines a no-no...(was fuel pump to carb line)
Re: Anybody selling a performer intake?
Re: New freon (was R-12 to R-134)
Re: Spring Carlisle OCA Gathering
Re: rubber fuel-lines a no-no...(was fuel pump to carb line)
Re: Anybody selling a performer intake?
Southern Metal
Re: Meeting place/time? Was:Re: Carlisle - Who's going?
Q-jet newbie question (was : no secondaries)
Re: Anybody selling a performer intake? 
Re: rubber fuel-lines a no-no...(was fuel pump to carb line)
350/455 swap  (was 350/455 motor mounts)
Re: Meeting place/time? Was:Re: Carlisle - Who's going?
Re: Meeting place/time? Was:Re: Carlisle - Who's going?
Re: Q-jet newbie question (was : no secondaries)
Re: rubber fuel-lines a no-no...(was fuel pump to carb line)
gas sending unit does nt send gas
Re: tires don't rub (Was 17's on 70-72)
Re: Anybody selling a performer intake? 
Re: Console Lock Retainer
Re: Fuel Pump to Carb line
big tires  (was 17's on 70-72)
ring gear spacer
Re: 350/455 swap  (was 350/455 motor mounts)
Re: engine id (from 4-6-99)
Re: starter solenoid & motor  (was: my olds won't start)
1978 Cutlass Wandering?
Re: Rear end question...
Re: 1978 Cutlass Wandering?
Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?
Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?
Re: Q-jet newbie question (was : no secondaries)
Re: 1978 Cutlass Wandering?
Re: 1978 Cutlass Wandering?
Re: Regal GN List

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 12:39:18 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: More Starting problems

In a message dated 99-04-18 18:51:24 EDT, you write:

<< Since the neutral safety switch was mentioned, 'thought I'd describe my
 situation. >>

And another True Life Adventure: figgured out SOM's hard starting.

Had believed that there was a weird short in the engine compartment.
Still possible , but culprit prolly found.

After a single occasion requiring a jump start, working on the "weird short" 
theory, pulled both batt cables when not operating SOM.

Weekend.
Pulled battery.
Visual inspection passed - no obvious leaks.
12.5 volts on the meter.
No probs there.
Go do summat else then.

Decided to check water levels prior to lugging the big thing back outside.
After putting a glassful of de-ionized water into cell #6 (all others were at 
proper levels), a new theory arises.
Batt now forming small puddle.
Leaking through corner (appeared to be only abraded at corner).
Hole is very small.
Got epoxy on now.
Hoping for a good recovery.
And immediate starts like before.

BTW that tiny umbrella suggestion (ala the Mai Tai we presume) was an 
interesting option.
Has anyone seen these in a size more appropriate for a stein?

Thanks.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 12:44:13 EDT
From: RPTW32@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds 3.42 or 3.91 ring & pinion

In a message dated 4/18/99 4:33:06 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Zeilmanns@aol.com writes:

<< HELP!  I am told 
 that aftermarket
 gears will not work with the OLDS Posi, and truly want to keep it.  We have
 contacted Richmond Gear and they can't help us, so I am once again turning
 to you folks for assistance.  >>
That's odd cause I have Richmond gears in my car that are 4.10's and they are 
mounted on factory posi that is a low three series carrier. My original gear 
was 3.23
They shld make one for reversal situation.

Rgds,
R.Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 13:05:12 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Olds 3.42 or 3.91 ring & pinion

That's odd cause I have Richmond gears in my car that are 4.10's and they are
mounted on factory posi that is a low three series carrier. My original gear
was 3.23
They shld make one for reversal situation.
__________

The problem here is that the "three series" ring and pinion sets use a larger
diameter pinion gear than the "four series" sets.  This is to physically fit 
the
greater number of teeth necessary to get the lower numerical gear ratios.  The
result is that the ring gear must be moved further away from the pinion gear's
centerline, thus the differences in carriers.  Since the problem is the
dimension from the ring gear mounting face on the carrier to the centerline of
the pinion, and since the four-series gear sets use a smaller dimension, it 
_is_
possible to mount four-series gears in a three-series carrier.  The old standby
is the ring gear spacer which goes between the carrier and the ring gear.  This
is simply an annular piece of steel which spaces the ring gear closer to the
pinion.  The drawback is that this additional piece causes the the ring gear
bolts to be put in bending instead of shear, so that they are more likely to
fail at some point.  The other method is to obtain a special four-series 
gearset
designed to fit a three-series carrier.  Basically the ring gear is just
thicker, incorporating the spacer into the gear itself.  This solves the bolt
bending problem and is really a pretty slick solution.  You can't, however, go
the other way - it obviously wouldn't be possible to make a three-series gear
set to fit a four-series carrier, as this means you'd need to make the ring 
gear
significantly thinner than original.  These four-series gearsets  for
three-series carriers are readily available for Type-C twelve bolts (is that
what you have in your 69, Rob?) and the corporate ten bolt axles, but I've 
never
seen a set for a Type-O axle (big surprise, right?).  You may be able to get or
fabricate a spacer that would work, however.  Just be sure to use tight
tolerance grade 8 aircraft fasteners.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 12:39:30 -0500 (CDT)
From: Efton March <eftonm@crss.gar.esys.com>
Subject: Chassis manual

I don't recall seeing in the FAQ or reading on the list where I might find a
chassis manual for a 72 Cutlass.  Also have not seen the manual in any of my
Olds catalogs at home or maybe I just missed it.

Anyone have one or know where I can find one?

Another Olds related story:  I am in Dallas, but my car is at my parents place
in Oklahoma awaiting frame-off.  Our paint and body man is putting the last
touches on another hotrod and should get to my car soon.  My Cutlass has been
sitting since it was wrecked in 1985.  The engine (350) was pulled and
overhauled a couple of years ago when we had neighbor put a new frame under the
body.  He finally got everything back together and we got the car back in
Febrary.  Last week my dad bought a new battery and he and a friend tried to
start it up.  The timing was off and the starter did not want to engage very
well, but beleive it or not it, it runs!  They adjusted the carb, put
transmission fluid in it and my dad took a few trips around the driveway.  It
still has the original 2 bbl. carb and single exhaust, but the motor has a
little hotter cam it in and he said he couldn't keep the tires from spinning on
the dirt and gravel drive.  When he called me he sounded like a 16 year old
kid.  Maybe that's how we stay young:  we hop into our Oldsmobile time machines
and get transported back to a better vanished time!  You gotta love Olds...

The only bad news is that the battery will not stay up.  I think dad said that
the generator light will not go off even with the key out.  Any ideas?
- --
Efton March
72 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 14:06:39 -0400
From: "Tina Walters" <jtmwalt@netsync.net>
Subject: Black Lacquer Preimer

First a thanks to Kerry K. for the info on the hinges. Can any one answer
my question on what company makes black lacquer primer??? I know its out
there but I can't find it around here.  Thanks Joe (not Tina) Walters   73
H/O

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 11:13 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: pinning harmonic balancer  - not a good idea!

B. Vosburgh wrote:

>
> I am on my 3rd balancer in 3 weeks . Has anyone had any luck with 
>fluid damper, the stock ones slip on the ring after 2 or three 
>passes. never had this problem before.   
______________________________________

>Greg Rollin replied:

>Although I've never had this problem, one solution would
>be drilling and pinning the outer ring to the center hub.
>If done in 180 or 90 degree increments, the balance would
>not be affected.  Center the hole in the rubber insulator,
>and drill a hole large enough (approx. 3/16") to cut into
>outer ring and center hub and press a roll pin in the hole.
>BTW, at 10.99, NHRA requires an SFI certified balancer,
>and if I remember correctly, you're not far away from that
>number.  Might be time to go with the aftermarket balancer.

__________________________________

I'm not completely sure this is what Greg had in mind, but I think 
he's suggesting pinning the outer ring of the harmonic balancer to the 
centre section, so that it doesn't slip during drag-racing. If I 
understood Greg correctly, this is NOT, repeat NOT a good idea. You 
will exchange a small problem - slipping harmonic balancer - for a 
very big and expensive one, a broken crankshaft!

The outer ring of the harmonic balancer in conjunction with the rubber 
layer between it and the central part acts to absorb torsional 
oscillations in the crankshaft, caused by the multiple "hits" from the 
compression strokes. Pinning the two parts of the harmonic balancer 
together will make this ineffective, and the crank will be subjected 
to large torsional oscillations, and eventually this will cause the 
crank to break into two pieces. 

The harmonic balancer is more than just a balancer, the term 
"Fluiddampr" actually describes its function better, it is a damper or 
shock-absorber for torsional oscillations in the crankshaft.

My Mopar Performance "Engines" book (written by factory engineers) 
specifically warns against drag-racing with a solid harmonic balancer 
or none at all.

Time to budget for that FluidDampr......

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

   

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 11:35:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Meeting place/time? Was:Re: Carlisle - Who's going?

 So... Where/when are we going to be meetng?  I think noon every day of
the show is a grat idea.  Either that, or  at least Friday for sure,
since most of the listers that mentioned being ther e mentioned Friday
as one of the days.  I also think that between the giveaway cars is a
great idea.  It'll be easy to locate, even for Carlisle first timers
such as myself.  

Stefan
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
70Cutlass@Beer.com

<Snip>
- --- LOUS69W30@aol.com wrote:
> << I agree we should take a minute to meet up someplace to greet and
> shake
>  hands. I don't know, maybe like on the main grandstand stage at
> high-noon
>  between the middle two giveaway cars or something. Anybody else up
> for
>  that? Opinions? >>
> 
> This is a great idea.  Anyone that has been there should know that
> spot and 
> its easy for new people to find too.  This should be the same spot
> everyday.  
> I plan to be there on Friday.  We all should confirm this by next
> week.
> 
> Lou Principe
> 69 442 W-30
 

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 14:45:54 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Meeting place/time? Was:Re: Carlisle - Who's going?

I'm chock full of great ideas. Noon on the stage works for me. See ya there.

Omega Man




At 11:35 AM 4/19/99 -0700, you wrote:
> So... Where/when are we going to be meetng?  I think noon every day of
>the show is a grat idea.  Either that, or  at least Friday for sure,
>since most of the listers that mentioned being ther e mentioned Friday
>as one of the days.  I also think that between the giveaway cars is a
>great idea.  It'll be easy to locate, even for Carlisle first timers
>such as myself.  
>
>Stefan
>1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
>70Cutlass@Beer.com
>
><Snip>
>--- LOUS69W30@aol.com wrote:
>> << I agree we should take a minute to meet up someplace to greet and
>> shake
>>  hands. I don't know, maybe like on the main grandstand stage at
>> high-noon
>>  between the middle two giveaway cars or something. Anybody else up
>> for
>>  that? Opinions? >>
>> 
>> This is a great idea.  Anyone that has been there should know that
>> spot and 
>> its easy for new people to find too.  This should be the same spot
>> everyday.  
>> I plan to be there on Friday.  We all should confirm this by next
>> week.
>> 
>> Lou Principe
>> 69 442 W-30
> 
>
>_________________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 11:55:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Changed my rear suspension

  I changed my rear springs and shocks yesterday.  It was easier than I
thought.  The part that took the longest was jacking up the car!  I now
have Moog cargo coils and KYB gas shocks.  WOW what a difference.  The
rear of my car is now about 2-3 inches higher!  I've been told that
replacement springs are generally shorter that the originals.  When I
pulled mine out, the new ones were Taller than the old ones!  My
original springs were very compressed, I guess 29 years will do that. 
Car handles a LOT better now.  I'm still waiting on the front springs,
I ordered them, and they're supposed to be coming in in Thursday or
Friday.  Sunday's going to be a VERY busy day for me.  I'm going to
have lots of stuff from Carlisle to put on (bumpers, trim, decals), as
well as the suspension stuff.  I think I'm just going to have a shop do
the front suspension work tho.  As of next Monday, I'm going to be
completely broke, but my Olds is going to rock, so it'll be worth it!  

Stefan
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
70Cutlass@Beer.com

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 14:55:32 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Meeting place/time? Was:Re: Carlisle - Who's going?

Brad Nicholson has already suggested noon Friday at the OCA booth.  The 
location
of the spaces are IE 20-21.  It's BYO Food.  I'm planning on being there.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 15:26:49 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: Changed my rear suspension

Don't forget to have the front end aligned after the spring change. Are you
changing bushings too or reusing the original?  Either way the front end
needs checking after the change. Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
To: oldsmobile mailinglist <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, April 19, 1999 2:55 PM
Subject: Changed my rear suspension


>
>   I changed my rear springs and shocks yesterday.  It was easier than I
> thought.  The part that took the longest was jacking up the car!  I now
> have Moog cargo coils and KYB gas shocks.  WOW what a difference.  The
> rear of my car is now about 2-3 inches higher!  I've been told that
> replacement springs are generally shorter that the originals.  When I
> pulled mine out, the new ones were Taller than the old ones!  My
> original springs were very compressed, I guess 29 years will do that.
> Car handles a LOT better now.  I'm still waiting on the front springs,
> I ordered them, and they're supposed to be coming in in Thursday or
> Friday.  Sunday's going to be a VERY busy day for me.  I'm going to
> have lots of stuff from Carlisle to put on (bumpers, trim, decals), as
> well as the suspension stuff.  I think I'm just going to have a shop do
> the front suspension work tho.  As of next Monday, I'm going to be
> completely broke, but my Olds is going to rock, so it'll be worth it!
>
> Stefan
> 1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
> 70Cutlass@Beer.com
>
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 15:48:23 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: Meeting place/time? Was:Re: Carlisle - Who's going?

Chiming in late here and I'm sure this is a real "Doh" but, Where is
Carlisle?  Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, April 19, 1999 2:35 PM
Subject: Meeting place/time? Was:Re: Carlisle - Who's going?


> So... Where/when are we going to be meetng?  I think noon every day of
> the show is a grat idea.  Either that, or  at least Friday for sure,
> since most of the listers that mentioned being ther e mentioned Friday
> as one of the days.  I also think that between the giveaway cars is a
> great idea.  It'll be easy to locate, even for Carlisle first timers
> such as myself.
>
> Stefan
> 1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
> 70Cutlass@Beer.com
>
> <Snip>
> --- LOUS69W30@aol.com wrote:
> > << I agree we should take a minute to meet up someplace to greet and
> > shake
> >  hands. I don't know, maybe like on the main grandstand stage at
> > high-noon
> >  between the middle two giveaway cars or something. Anybody else up
> > for
> >  that? Opinions? >>
> >
> > This is a great idea.  Anyone that has been there should know that
> > spot and
> > its easy for new people to find too.  This should be the same spot
> > everyday.
> > I plan to be there on Friday.  We all should confirm this by next
> > week.
> >
> > Lou Principe
> > 69 442 W-30
>
>
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 15:56:51 -0400
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Meeting place/time? Was:Re: Carlisle - Who's going?

I'll be at the stage....high noon Thursday. Wish I could be there Friday at
the OCA Table.

Randy


>
> I'm chock full of great ideas. Noon on the stage works for me. See ya
there.
>
> Omega Man
>
>
>
>
> At 11:35 AM 4/19/99 -0700, you wrote:
> > So... Where/when are we going to be meetng?  I think noon every day of
> >the show is a grat idea.  Either that, or  at least Friday for sure,
> >since most of the listers that mentioned being ther e mentioned Friday
> >as one of the days.  I also think that between the giveaway cars is a
> >great idea.  It'll be easy to locate, even for Carlisle first timers
> >such as myself.
> >
> >Stefan
> >1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
> >70Cutlass@Beer.com
> >
> ><Snip>
> >--- LOUS69W30@aol.com wrote:
> >> << I agree we should take a minute to meet up someplace to greet and
> >> shake
> >>  hands. I don't know, maybe like on the main grandstand stage at
> >> high-noon
> >>  between the middle two giveaway cars or something. Anybody else up
> >> for
> >>  that? Opinions? >>
> >>
> >> This is a great idea.  Anyone that has been there should know that
> >> spot and
> >> its easy for new people to find too.  This should be the same spot
> >> everyday.
> >> I plan to be there on Friday.  We all should confirm this by next
> >> week.
> >>
> >> Lou Principe
> >> 69 442 W-30
> >
> >
> >_________________________________________________________
> >Do You Yahoo!?
> >Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
> >
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 15:59:16 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Meeting place/time? Was:Re: Carlisle - Who's going?

In a message dated 04/19/1999 3:50:09 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
gjcouse@francomm.com writes:

<< Chiming in late here and I'm sure this is a real "Doh" but, Where is
 Carlisle?  Gary....
  >>
It's in Central Pennsylvania.  Exit 16 off the Penn Turnpike or Exit 17 off 
Route 81.  Extremely large swap meet and car corral.  It's this weekend April 
22 - 25.  

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 12:34 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: starter solenoid & motor  (was: my olds won't start)

John Fletcher wrote:
<snip>
....same thing happened to my 83 Custom cruiser. another thing you 
might try is a new starter solenoid, I need to get a new one as it 
wont start when the car is hot.
________________________________

What are the symptoms of a failing solenoid? My Olds cranks slower and 
slower as the temperature goes up, until it barely turns over on hot 
days after a long run. This is with a freshly rebuilt starter that was 
replaced about 6 months ago.  If the solenoid fails the starter won't 
turn over at all, correct? So my problem is probably not the solenoid 
but the starter itself.

Does anyone make a modern gear-reduction starter for our Olds engines? 
I know that new Chevy's come with gear-reduction starters and/or 
permanent-magnet-field starter motors that are smaller, lighter, and 
have more cranking torque than our old leviathans. Will these fit the 
Olds engines? I remember the starter on my '72 Supreme had a tapped 
hole in the side of the starter for an auxiliary support bracket, 
which the Chevy starters didn't seem to have, and which threw my auto 
parts store clerks into confusion.

Failing a modern gear-reduction starter, what do you folks with 
high-compression 455's use for a starter?  My 8.2:1 350 should be pie 
for any starter than can turn over a 455.

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 12:51 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: rubber fuel-lines a no-no...(was fuel pump to carb line)

>I tried making a new aluminum fuel line with no success.  So then, I 
>made the connecting end from the carb first and left some length to 
>clear the air cleaner.  I made a similar one from the fuel pump and 
>then connected the two with a fuel line (hose) that I cut to fit and
>clamped it on.  Not stock but it worked fine.
_____________________________________________

Over on the Mopar mailing list there were several posts by 
professional fire-fighters recently about car enthusiasts being burned 
to death or injured severely as a result of gasoline fires that 
resulted from unsafe practices. Keeping this in mind, do you really 
want to risk using rubber fuel line on top of a hot engine, and within 
spurting distance of even hotter exhaust manifolds? Yes, it'll work, 
and yes, the odds are you'll never have a problem. But heaven help you 
if you are that one in a thousand who does have a problem. Burn wounds 
are amongst the most painful and disfiguring of injuries, if you are 
lucky enough to even survive.

IMHO, it's not worth the risk. Take the time and trouble to do it 
right, with stock steel fuel line. Aluminium fuel line has a nasty way 
of fatiguing or corroding and failing unexpectedly, as the listee who 
recently had an aluminium ladder fail under his weight and who broke 
his leg as a result can attest. You can find stock replacement line in 
a junkyard for next to no money, buy speciality line from a number of 
restoration companiesk,  or buy a tubing bender and double-flaring kit 
from Harbor Freight and do it yourself. Whatever your budget, there is 
a safe way to do it.

We Olds enthusiasts are a rare breed, we can't afford to lose any of 
our clan to gasoline fires!

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 13:24:28 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Anybody selling a performer intake?

Hi George,
	I was wondering if you found more than one of these and would pass on a
reference for me.  I too am looking but I figured there was no use yelling "Me
Too" on the list since I don't expect there to be many at a great price.  A
list member (Igor) picked one up for $170 recently so I figure that is a good
price.  In fact he offered it to me first but I didn't have the cash at the
time.  I hope you found one at a reasonable price.

George wrote:
> 
> Hi Listers,
> 
> slowly but surely I get aggervatet by the holley street dominator plus
> edelbrock carb combo I try to get connected to the stock setup throttle
> and air cleaner. Sometimes one should not just use what is free...
> 
> I think I would be better of with an edelbrock performer manifold. Anyone
> offers one for sale or trade for the holley street dominator? The street
> dominator is a cool looking single plane manifold, better for racing then
> daily driving anyway.
> 

Have a good day,
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 13:04:01 -0700
From: see@ascend.com (Steve Ehrhardt)
Subject: Re: New freon (was R-12 to R-134)

> As promised in a past post here's the info on a freon that's a complete
> replacement for R-12. This freon (which is a trade name for refrigerant
> of any kind) at the supply house I use costs about $1.60 per pound and
> must be purchased in a 30 lb. jug.
> 
> It's produced by a company called Forane. They call it 409A (FX-56). It
> is a HCFC (hydrochlorofluorocarbon) and is in the same group as R-22 and
> R-123, but is not the same as them.
>
> As most of us know R-134A is a blend of other freons. R-409A is also a
> blend but in such a way that it is fully compatible with R-12 systems!

Actually, 134A is one of the few refrigerants that is *not* a blend.

R409A is also illegal to use in automotive use, per this from the EPA
web site:

1) R-401A (made by DuPont), R-401B (DuPont), R-409A (Elf Atochem),
Care 30 (Calor Gas), Adak-29/Adak-12 (TACIP Int'l), MT-31 (Millenia Tech),
and ES-12R (Intervest) have not been submitted for review in motor vehicle
air conditioning, and it is therefore illegal to use the refrigerants in
such systems.

The URL for the web page is:

http://www.epa.gov/spdpublc/title6/snap/macssubs.html

I'm not sure how much difference the regulations will make to anyone,
but there is a chart of R12 substitutes on the same page, plus a fair
bit of information about choosing a substitute refrigerant.

A bit of foraging on the EPA web site will yield other useful docuements
about conversion of R12 systems to other refrigerants - I'd recommend
giving it a look before making a switch.  In particular, check this
one on R134A conversion, which provides a "cookbook" approach to making
the conversion:

http://www.epa.gov/spdpublc/title6/609/oneshop.html

The information there seems to indicate that R134A should work fine, and
there's only one significant tweak required (adjust the cycling switch
counterclockwise to 21 psi cycle off) required for most of the vehicles
discussed here.

(Disclaimer:  I haven't tried any such conversion.  The information on
this page seems better than most of the rumors I've heard/read, though.)

I hope this helps....

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 16:09:55 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Spring Carlisle OCA Gathering

In a message dated 04/17/1999 8:08:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
brad442@erols.com writes:

<< Myself and Glenn Williamson (OCA Atlantic SE Zone Director)  are going to
 meet up for lunch at the OCA Road Show Space at Spring Carlisle on Friday
 April 23 at 12:00 noon.  All OCA Members are invited to join in on the pig
 out, and anyone else wanting to come over and say hey, you're invited to do
 so. >>
I know Omega Man had the great idea of meeting on the stage where the 
Give-Away cars are located.  However, Brad's plan sounds good too.  I would 
vote for Brad's idea.

But now I may be going on Thursday.  Brad, will anyone be at the booth on  
Thursday?  If not I would go for the stage plan.  What does everyone think?

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 13:33:11 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: rubber fuel-lines a no-no...(was fuel pump to carb line)

Hear, hear, well said.  I too have worried about the rubber lines fixes
although I haven't heard too many horror stories from firefighters.  As a
precaution I do carry a halogen fire extinguisher in my older cars.  JIC

What is really scary is an electric fuel pump and rubber lines.  With the stock
pump the engine will stop once the engine stops esp. in an accident but the
electric fuel pumps just keep pumping until the power is cut.

Have a good day.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 13:34:06 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Anybody selling a performer intake?

Doh!  Meant to go private, sorry.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 16:27:59 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Southern Metal

I have just picked up some southern body parts Listed below:

69         Cutlass doors - Rust free - $250 pr.
70 - 72   Cutlass Door - Rust free - $150 pass. side
68 Sports Coupe Cutlass Door - Rust Free -$125 Driver Side.
70-72 Cutlass Fender - Rust Free - $150 Drivers side.
69 Cutlass Conv. Lid  - Rust free - $100

Anyone Interested please E e privately

Thanks

Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 16:21:31 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Meeting place/time? Was:Re: Carlisle - Who's going?

That'll work too.

Omega Man


At 02:55 PM 4/19/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Brad Nicholson has already suggested noon Friday at the OCA booth.  The
location
>of the spaces are IE 20-21.  It's BYO Food.  I'm planning on being there.
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 13:18 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Q-jet newbie question (was : no secondaries)

Dorian wrote:
<snip>
>.....The air valves won't open without a load on the engine. (IE 
>driving it down the road)........
____________________________________

Lou Biggs added:
<snip>
>Nik'
>Only under a load on the engine, not revving it sitting still while 
>you watch.
____________________________________

I'm a Q-jet newbie, will someone explain this to me?  My understanding 
is that the secondary throttle butterflies open because of the 
mechanical linkage when the primaries are open about 40-50 degrees, 
after which the secondary air valve is sucked open by manifold vacuum. 
Manifold vacuum is highest at idle, so I would have expected that the 
secondaries would suck open faster with no load on the engine than 
when under load!

Could it be that the dashpot which controls secondary opening rate 
slows down the secondaries enough that they simply don't open under a 
quick blip of the throttle? Of course you can't hold the throttle open 
for long with no load on the engine, either!  Is that why you folks 
said that the secondaries won't open except under load?

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 15:13:03 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Anybody selling a performer intake? 

Cliff, 

I wrote email to edelbrock. I have the Q-jet edelbrock carb and I wanted 
to make sure it will fit the edelbrock performer. They recommended # 3711 
performer manifold which they sell as a "stock replacement" piece, which 
means everything stock bolts on with no prob. 

They have that 3711 at jegs for $171.99 and that is what I am going to 
end up with soon if I don't find a reasonable priced used one. Most 
people I found (eg. on 442.com) wanted $150 for their used one... 
c'mon, then I rather buy it brand new. 

BTW: I assume you know jegs: www.jegs.com

Hope this helps. If you need any additional info, let me know! If I find 
a good deal I will keep you updated.

George


- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
- --------------------------------------------------------------

On Mon, 19 Apr 1999, Cliff Simpson wrote:

> 
> Hi George,
> 	I was wondering if you found more than one of these and would pass 
on a
> reference for me.  I too am looking but I figured there was no use yelling 
"Me
> Too" on the list since I don't expect there to be many at a great price.  A
> list member (Igor) picked one up for $170 recently so I figure that is a good
> price.  In fact he offered it to me first but I didn't have the cash at the
> time.  I hope you found one at a reasonable price.
> 
> George wrote:
> > 
> > Hi Listers,
> > 
> > slowly but surely I get aggervatet by the holley street dominator plus
> > edelbrock carb combo I try to get connected to the stock setup throttle
> > and air cleaner. Sometimes one should not just use what is free...
> > 
> > I think I would be better of with an edelbrock performer manifold. Anyone
> > offers one for sale or trade for the holley street dominator? The street
> > dominator is a cool looking single plane manifold, better for racing then
> > daily driving anyway.
> > 
> 
> Have a good day,
> -- 
> 
> Cliff Simpson
> mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
> '69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
> http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 15:13:21 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: rubber fuel-lines a no-no...(was fuel pump to carb line)

> What is really scary is an electric fuel pump and rubber lines.  With the 
stock
> pump the engine will stop once the engine stops esp. in an accident but the
> electric fuel pumps just keep pumping until the power is cut.

Cliff, don't they sell (automatic) safety switches that prevent this? I 
remember seeing them at some catalog.

George

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 13:27 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: 350/455 swap  (was 350/455 motor mounts)

Jim wrote:
>I'm putting a 455/400 in a 72 Cutlass in place of a 350/350, been 
>quite a project. Anyway the 455 mounts are probable an inch or so 
>taller. I'm putting the 350 mounts in because I need mine a little 
>lower. Good luck. 
>Jim
____________________________________

Jim, can you give some details of what went into this? I had heard 
that this was an "easy swap", sounds like you found out otherwise. 
Ever since I found out how heavy the small-block Olds engine is, a 
tiny corner of my mind has been thinking about 455 swaps, if I can get 
Joe Padavano to stop laughing at me long enough for me to think 
straight.......(I was the one who posted the "top ten reasons to own a 
small-block" on the list a while ago).

Swapping a 403 in place of a 350 is straightforward, isn't it? Or are 
there weird problems that I don't know about even with this swap?

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 16:40:51 EDT
From: SrDietW30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Meeting place/time? Was:Re: Carlisle - Who's going?

How about the OCA test which was listed in earlier mail ?


Steve Dietrich
  S/E PA
     71 442 W30 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 16:46:56 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: Meeting place/time? Was:Re: Carlisle - Who's going?

In a message dated 4/19/99 3:04:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM writes:

<< Brad Nicholson has already suggested noon Friday at the OCA booth.  The 
location
 of the spaces are IE 20-21.  It's BYO Food.  I'm planning on being there.
  >>
Thats great if your going on Friday but I am going on Thursday, so above is 
good for Friday and 12 noon at the stage is good for every other day....Hot 
Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 16:48:39 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Q-jet newbie question (was : no secondaries)

Manifold vacuum is highest at idle, so I would have expected that the
secondaries would suck open faster with no load on the engine than
when under load!...
_______

Your reasoning is correct, but the flaw is that the air valves are above the
throttle plate, so they are not seeing manifold vacuum.  With the throttle
plates closed, the space above the throttles is at atmospheric pressure.  As 
the
throttles open, air sucked into the venturies causes a low pressure area under
the air valves.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 17:01:22 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: rubber fuel-lines a no-no...(was fuel pump to carb line)

George wrote:
> 
> > What is really scary is an electric fuel pump and rubber lines.  With the 
stock
> > pump the engine will stop once the engine stops esp. in an accident but the
> > electric fuel pumps just keep pumping until the power is cut.
> 
> Cliff, don't they sell (automatic) safety switches that prevent this? I
> remember seeing them at some catalog.
> 
> George

Yeah, they make automatic cutoff switches for that.  Most of them are
oil pressure sensors.  When the oil pressure drops to zero the pump
shuts off.  Some EFI fords used to have shock sensors designed to shut
the pump off in an accident.  

I believe the Chevy Vegas had an oil pressure cutoff switch for the fuel
pump.  Might be a cheap way to get ahold of one if you ask for it at a
parts counter.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais
93 98 LS

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 21:07:56 +0000
From: isurmise@att.net
Subject: gas sending unit does nt send gas

my 67 442 (with air cond) gas sending unit (fuel and 
return line) is dead.  I've tried local and most of the 
big suppliers.  $120 to rebuild mine, if it can be...  
If anyone has ideas please write, the nationals are 
coming quick.  Thanks 

John Stowe
Tulsa, OK
67 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 14:26 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: tires don't rub (Was 17's on 70-72)

Joe Lewis wrote:

>Thanks for the great info John. I was wondering with your tires so 
>close to the frame when you go out of a driveway and turn do they 
>rub. I had this problem on my elcamino, i always had to pull straight 
>out of a driveway.
_____________________________

I haven't had a problem with this - no evidence of any rubbing, and I 
like to drive the car hard through corners, as in tires starting to 
squeal.  With the 4 1/4" backspacing on my rear wheels I have probably 
1" - 3/4" of clearance between the tire sidewall and inner wheel-well, 
and that seems to be enough to prevent any rubbing. My front tires 
have somewhat less clearance, but there's also less flex in the front 
suspension, and I haven't seen any signs of rubbing there, either.
To tell the truth there's room for considerably bigger tires if the 
right wheel offset is used.

If I had a choice, I would use slightly less backspacing; the factory 
steel wheel had 3 7/8" backspacing.  I used the wheels I did mainly 
because I got them for the right price, and as you may know from a 
previous post of mine, I had a fair amount of trouble getting them 
installed. There is lots of room on the outside of the tire for wider 
tires or smaller backspacing to be used. If I win the lottery I'll go 
to something like 255/50/17 tires on 9.5 x 17 wheels with 3 7/8" 
backspacing at the rear and maybe 4 1/4" backspacing at the front.
Maybe use a 255/40/17 tire size on the front to drop the nose a bit, 
too....


- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 17:41:36 EDT
From: Mrmagic442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Anybody selling a performer intake? 

  I have a #3711 on my car now.. I am about to install a Performer RPM.... 
Write if you wish to make the trade for the Holley intake.

                Jeff    Mrmagic442@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 18:40:41 EDT
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Console Lock Retainer

In a message dated 4/18/99 11:20:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
LOUS69W30@aol.com writes:

<< In a message dated 4/17/99 5:54:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
 drolds350@webtv.net writes:
 
 << I am in need of the lock retainer for a 70-72 console. Mine is missing.
  Anyone have one?
   >>
 
 Gee, this must be the day for console lock retainers.  I'm need one for my 
 69, it broke today.  Anyone have one of these??
 
 Thanks
 
 Lou Principe
 69 442 W-30
  >>
i have some for 70-72 models, thats what jim`s car is. i think 69 models are 
the same?  i can see if i have another?   steven, w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 09:53:27 -0500
From: "Greg" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump to Carb line

I gave up the dough for stainless braid and aluminum AN fittings.  Looks
nice and meets NHRA safety rules (no more than 12" of rubber line in the
fuel system)

- -greg

- -----Original Message-----
From: Andersons <robertan@cfw.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, April 17, 1999 9:46 PM
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump to Carb line


>Yes, you can do this, but it's not as safe as a metal line, IMHO.  PO of my
>'71 had done this, and I had a near engine-fatal catastrophe in the first
>year I drove it.  See, the rubber hose gets really baked by the manifold
>heat when it runs over and near the front of the engine- mine got so
brittle
>it snapped one day while it was idling (I was adjusting the choke at the
>time).  Man, it can really pump out a lot of gas all over the place in the
>time it takes to run around to the driver side and shut it off!  No flames,
>luckily.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Chris Rivier <crivier@hotmail.com>
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Date: Saturday, April 17, 1999 7:17 PM
>Subject: Re: Fuel Pump to Carb line
>
>
>>Hi all,
>>
>>>From previous:...In addition, the line should be square ... (and) you
>>may have to "fine-tune" the bends.
>>
>>If all else fails and you mistakenly bend it too far or break it you
>>can use a fuel line.  I had to do this on my '72.  I tried making a
>>new aluminum fuel line with no success.  So then, I made the
>>connecting end from the carb first and left some length to clear the
>>air cleaner.  I made a similar one from the fuel pump and then
>>connected the two with a fuel line (hose) that I cut to fit and
>>clamped it on.  Not stock but it worked fine.
>>
>>Just my $.02,
>>
>>Chris Rivier
>>Austin,TX
>>
>>_______________________________________________________________
>>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 16:20 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: big tires  (was 17's on 70-72)

Joe Lewis wrote:

>John why only 225 on the rear im sure you can go at the very least 
>255. I would like to try and get into the 315 range.
___________________________________________

As you say, there is lots of room for bigger tires both front and 
back. I was trying to do this on a limited budget, which meant I was 
stuck with factory wheels, and I ended up with 16x8 Firebird wheels. 
Two or three books on handling that I have state that for a given tire 
size, one should use the widest rim that will fit that tire for the 
best handling and feel (wider wheels "brace" the tire sidewalls apart 
and make the tire stiffer against sideways forces). That is to say, 
for a given rim width, one should use the narrowest tire that will fit 
on that rim for best grip. I realise that this goes against the 
popular belief, but I have it from a couple of authoritative sources. 
The narrowest tire that would fit on an 8" rim was a 225, which is 
what I used.

Using this criteria, to fit those 315's you'd need something like 11" 
wide rims. With only 4" of backspace those wheels would stick out a 
long way. Not sure how well they'd fit.

One more thing, the two ball-joints in the front suspension dictate 
the line about which the front tires pivot (steering axis) and this 
hits the ground somewhere in the tire contact patch; the distance from 
this point to the centre of the tire contact patch is called the scrub 
radius, and if it is changed too much steering feel, loads on the 
wheel bearings, tie-rods, etc, all change for the worse. Using 
extremely wide tires and stock offsets will increase this scrub radius 
considerably...

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 19:28:29 -0400
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: ring gear spacer

Try allens axles in tampa fl 813-784-0452 . he sold me a spacer and gear
set for my olds o axle  it held up fine with 4.11 gears.       Butch
68  442  post

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 19:34:19 EDT
From: Harrell17@aol.com
Subject: Re: 350/455 swap  (was 350/455 motor mounts)

Well, everybody said it would be easy. My only real problem has been the 
mounts. I don't know what to believe. I think I'm going to use the 350 mounts 
and perchs and just fit the rest. I can't figure out why the tranny 
crossmember sits about an inch or two to far back for the holes to line up 
with the holes in the frame. Have any ideas on that. Jim

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 19:48:39 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: engine id (from 4-6-99)

Sorry it took me so long to research this.  I don't think we ever got a
definative answer.  I had my book at work and kept forgetting to bring
it home.  Then I left in the car for a while.  Finally brought it in the
house.  Here's what I came up with:

jalkara wrote:
> 
> a man called me and wanted to know if i could help him out with id ing
> the engine in his 55 2 dr hdtp.  

> engine # from pad on side of block   A32406173

'55 engine numbers started with V400001 and ran to V983275, so this
probably isn't a '55 engine.  '56 engine numbers started at A001001 and
ran to A385513.  '57s also started at A001001 - no ending number.  
Seems there's too many digits in this number, but it's probably a '56
324 or '57 371.

> trans #  R55636457

This is a '55 HydraMatic, as denoted by R55.  

The above information was obtained from the Standard Catalog of
Oldsmobile 1897-1997 by Chevedden & Kowalke and the Standard Catalog of
American Cars 1956-1975 by the editors of Old Cars Publications.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 17:00:21 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@digitaldune.net>
Subject: Re: starter solenoid & motor  (was: my olds won't start)

A few tricks I have learned with starting a HOT olds 400 in 120+ degree
weather in SW AZ. First off, a massive battery. I have a 1000 amp battery.
It is also located in the trunk and poses no cranking problems. 2nd, a
large guage cable from battery to starter. The more current you can get
from the battery to the starter the easier it is to overcome the heat
problems. Lastly, a starter that is in good shape. As mentioned the major
problem is the solenoid. If there is clicking or no cranking period when
hot, you may wish to pull your starter and check the copper disk in the
solenoid. Costs absolutely nothing to pull it out and if it is pitted and
scored from arcing... Just pull the retaining clip off and turn that
copper disk over. Simple and will put 100s if not 1000s more starts on
your starter.

Ben

John Carri wrote:

> John Fletcher wrote:
> <snip>
> ....same thing happened to my 83 Custom cruiser. another thing you
> might try is a new starter solenoid, I need to get a new one as it
> wont start when the car is hot.
> ________________________________
>
> What are the symptoms of a failing solenoid? My Olds cranks slower and
> slower as the temperature goes up, until it barely turns over on hot
> days after a long run. This is with a freshly rebuilt starter that was
> replaced about 6 months ago.  If the solenoid fails the starter won't
> turn over at all, correct? So my problem is probably not the solenoid
> but the starter itself.
>
> Does anyone make a modern gear-reduction starter for our Olds engines?
> I know that new Chevy's come with gear-reduction starters and/or
> permanent-magnet-field starter motors that are smaller, lighter, and
> have more cranking torque than our old leviathans. Will these fit the
> Olds engines? I remember the starter on my '72 Supreme had a tapped
> hole in the side of the starter for an auxiliary support bracket,
> which the Chevy starters didn't seem to have, and which threw my auto
> parts store clerks into confusion.
>
> Failing a modern gear-reduction starter, what do you folks with
> high-compression 455's use for a starter?  My 8.2:1 350 should be pie
> for any starter than can turn over a 455.
>
> -John Carri
> '72 Supreme
> '73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 19:06:54 -0500
From: Matthew Bremmer <bremmer@sgi.com>
Subject: 1978 Cutlass Wandering?

Ok list I have been working on a bit of a problem for months on my 1978
Olds Cutlass.   I should probably have bothered the experts on this
list, but oh well... My problem basically is that the car seems to
wander down the street.  I don't think she dog tracks like the frame is
bent because I have asked some friends when they followed me if they saw
this...  Some informationg as to history of this car originally had a V6
in it and the owner put a V8 305 in her.  But didnt change out the
springs so this blew out the upper and lower ball joints.  So I had the
upper and lower ball joints and the springs replaced in the front/rear.
Next I changed out the front wheel bearings,tie rods, steering linkage,
and steering gear.  The car still wanders.  The shocks in the rear were
replaced,but the shocks in the front haven't been yet.  I plan on
changing out the shocks in the front end and then taking it somewhere
else to have it aligned.  I will let you know the drifting doesn't seem
one sided as pulling to one side all the time and it seems to rear its'
evil head more in windy weather..  So unsure of what would be causing
this failure.  I took it to my mechanic back home and he couldn't find
anything wrong.  He said the bushings seemed good and possibly it could
be the tires because I had a set of generals on the front and some
whatevers on the rear.  So instead of t-shooting because I am getting
really annoyed by this I went to sears and bought four goodyears and
still have my problem.  Well I am running out of ideas as to the cause
of this crap and I am looking for some suggestions...Thanks in advance
for your responses...

Matt

P.S.->I did change out the wheel bearings in the front and rear of the vehicle 
as well..

- --
"The truth is out there; Trust NO ONE!!!!!!!"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 20:21:24 -0400
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Rear end question...

Four42man@aol.com wrote:

> I once tried to put a rear out of a 75 Cutlass into a 69 Cutlass rag top.
> The bottom control arms bolted in fine.  The upper ones did not.  I ended up
> having to cut the upper control arms, offset them and then weld them
> together.  After I did that the travel was fine, with no binding, and the
> arms bolted right in.  The offset in the upper arms ended up being about half
> the width of the control arm.  If you do this make sure you reinforce the
> control arms with extra pieces of steel.

How were the control arms as far as length - did they need to be shortened at 
all
to maintain proper pinion angle or just simply offset?Thanks in advance...
Todd

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 20:20:25 -0400
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 1978 Cutlass Wandering?

> springs so this blew out the upper and lower ball joints.  So I had the
> upper and lower ball joints and the springs replaced in the front/rear.
> Next I changed out the front wheel bearings,tie rods, steering linkage,
> and steering gear.  The car still wanders.

How about the pitman arm and idler arm? Worn out steering gear box? When
sitting still is there much play in the steering wheel before you feel the
wheels turn? You did have the front end aligned after doing the suspension
work, right?
Ummmm......loose wheel bearings?

Just some thoughts,
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 20:22:50 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?

Joe sez:

>(As an aside, the very early Q-jets used a choke-activated secondary
lockout to
>prevent these [throttle] bores from opening before the engine was
sufficiently warm.  This
>was replaced by the air valve lockout on later carbs).

Dave sez:

On my 85, the lockout pin acts on the throttle shaft, not the air valves.
Secondary throttle linkage is spring coupled, so as not to bust when the pin
is engaged and the shaft won't move (cold choke). This spring can lose its
tension, and not provide enough "push" to open the secondary throttle plates
against engine vacuum. No "bauuuugh".


Been there, seen that.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 20:35:32 -0400
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?

- --------------555225F3F501894335461978
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit



Dave Cullen wrote:

> Joe sez:
>
> >(As an aside, the very early Q-jets used a choke-activated secondary
> lockout to
> >prevent these [throttle] bores from opening before the engine was
> sufficiently warm.  This
> >was replaced by the air valve lockout on later carbs).
>
> Dave sez:
>
> On my 85, the lockout pin acts on the throttle shaft, not the air valves.
> Secondary throttle linkage is spring coupled, so as not to bust when the pin
> is engaged and the shaft won't move (cold choke). This spring can lose its
> tension, and not provide enough "push" to open the secondary throttle plates
> against engine vacuum. No "bauuuugh".
>
> Been there, seen that.
>
> drc

Hey that's the sound effect that I love so much!Todd Daenzer


- --------------555225F3F501894335461978
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<HTML>
&nbsp;

<P>Dave Cullen wrote:
<BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE>Joe sez:

<P>>(As an aside, the very early Q-jets used a choke-activated secondary
<BR>lockout to
<BR>>prevent these [throttle] bores from opening before the engine was
<BR>sufficiently warm.&nbsp; This
<BR>>was replaced by the air valve lockout on later carbs).

<P>Dave sez:

<P>On my 85, the lockout pin acts on the throttle shaft, not the air valves.
<BR>Secondary throttle linkage is spring coupled, so as not to bust when
the pin
<BR>is engaged and the shaft won't move (cold choke). This spring can lose
its
<BR>tension, and not provide enough "push" to open the secondary throttle
plates
<BR>against engine vacuum. <U>No "bauuuugh".</U>

<P>Been there, seen that.

<P>drc</BLOCKQUOTE>
Hey that's the sound effect that I love so much!Todd Daenzer
<BR>&nbsp;</HTML>

- --------------555225F3F501894335461978--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 20:32:53 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Q-jet newbie question (was : no secondaries)

My understanding
is that the secondary throttle butterflies open because of the
mechanical linkage when the primaries are open about 40-50 degrees
- ------------------------
Yup.

- ---------------------
Could it be that the dashpot which controls secondary opening rate
slows down the secondaries enough that they simply don't open under a
quick blip of the throttle?
- -----------------------

Yup again. The dashpot (front vacuum break unit) holds the sec air valves
shut tight. Vacuum needs to drop low enough for long enough time to allow
the VB to release its hold on them.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 19:37:54 -0500
From: Matthew Bremmer <bremmer@sgi.com>
Subject: Re: 1978 Cutlass Wandering?

> How about the pitman arm and idler arm? Worn out steering gear box? When
> sitting still is there much play in the steering wheel before you feel the
> wheels turn? You did have the front end aligned after doing the suspension
> work, right?
> Ummmm......loose wheel bearings?
>
> Just some thoughts,
> Randy

I forgot to mention I replaced the idler arm, but not the pitman arm because
that is just a solid piece of metal.  I already replaced the steering box.
Yes I did have it aligned between different replacements about 3 times now.

I don't think the wheel bearings are loose....I followed the manual to a tee
for replacement...

Matt

- --
"The truth is out there; Trust NO ONE!!!!!!!"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 21:05:30 -0400
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 1978 Cutlass Wandering?

> I forgot to mention I replaced the idler arm, but not the pitman arm
because
> that is just a solid piece of metal.

I used to think the same thing, until I replaced the idler arm on a 66 Dodge
Dart( that I won't admit to owning way back when), twice in a year.Same
problem as you....wandered all over the place. The second time it wouldn't
pass inspection and the mechanic told me to replace both at the same time as
a bad idler arm is usuaully caused by a worn pitman arm. Or was that visa
versa? Anyway.......replaced both and it was fine after that. Go figure.

Don't know how much truth is in what I was told as I haven't have to replace
either one since. Any mechanics out there want to shed some light on this?

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 21:47:12 EDT
From: CChand4644@aol.com
Subject: Re: Regal GN List

Try WWW. got sucked up my 455's tail pipe .com.
CC

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1913
*********************************

