Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.Ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.Ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1935


oldsmobile-digest        Saturday, May 1 1999        Volume 01 : Number 1935



Re: 1953 Olds Info
Re: changing thermostat
Re: What Holly for 455ci???
Re: 1953 Olds Info
Re: Theft deterrent systems
Re: REQ: 1991 Cutlass Help
1903 Curved Dash Oldsmobile (replica) (fwd)
Re: REQ: 1991 Cutlass Help
1971 442 W30
Re: Q-jet on 360 Mopar
Re: Theft deterrent systems
I apologize (spring fling post was accident)
Re: 1903 Curved Dash Oldsmobile (replica) (fwd)
Re: 1903 Curved Dash Oldsmobile (replica) (fwd)
Re: REQ: 1991 Cutlass Help
Re: 1971 442 W30
Re: 1953 Olds Info
Re: Re Gearless Good news
Re: Carlisle(where was everyone?)
RE: Do tell.
Re: Re Gearless Good news
Re: Only 1973 Toronado known to exist!
Re: 1971 442 W30
Re: Weatherstriping
Rear Main Seal.
Variable Pitch Trans.
Carlisle - Year One
cams & mufflers
Re: Window regulator
Re: 1971 442 W30
Back from Vegas.....
changing email address
'68 High vol. alum water pump
re: Minnesota body shop
Re: 1971 442 W30
Re: cams & mufflers
Re: 1971 442 W30
Frame off
Re: 1971 442 W30
Re: Frame off
Re: 1971 442 W30
69 4-4-2 Firewall paint stamps
Smoking Alternator??
Volt Readings...
Re: Ring Seating
Re: Ring Seating
70 Cutlass (value)
Re: 70 Cutlass (value)
Re: cams & mufflers
Re: 1971 442 W30
Re: 69 4-4-2 Firewall paint stamps
Re: Volt Readings...
toro suspension travel
Re: 69 4-4-2 Firewall paint stamps

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 14:27:57 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 1953 Olds Info

I made a big, big boo-boo.  I am ever so sorry and will immediately
go out and punish myself.  Was meant to go private.  Once again,
sorry.  Mike Bloomer

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 00:19:25 -0600
From: "Jeff Newman" <newsance@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: changing thermostat

A thermostat will try to keep the water in the block at its rated
temperature, and with a good flowing water pump, does its job pretty well.
Granted, you can't put a 140 degree thermo in and expect it to work on a 100
degree day in your 455. I guess what I am saying is that a thermostat does
more than just start up temperature.

I am running a 160 degree thermo in my 307, (yeah I know, it ain't a REAL
engine) and it did make the engine run cooler than the standard 195.
- -----Original Message-----
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 12:34 PM
Subject: Re: changing thermostat


>
>Hi Mike!
>
>> temp gage). When driving down the highway the gage gets to around the
half
>> way point or there abouts. It worries me a little to see the gage get
above
>> the halfway point, especially since the air temps have only been in the
>> seventies. This brings me to my questions. I would like to change my
>> thermostat. Is 165 degree thermostat a good choice?
>
>You really should think about it, if this is a good idea. Therefore a
>short note what the thermostat really does:
>
>The thermostat is a "binary" device which means it is either open or
>closed. It will help to bring the engine to operating temperature quick.
>The thermostat stays closed and keeps the engine coolant to the small
>circulation (excluding the radiator) to let the engine heat up quick.
>Once the coolant temperature reaches the thermostat temp (185 deg in your
>case) it will open and switch to the big cooling circulation including
>the radiator.
>You can already see that installing a thermostat with a lower temperature
>just allows you to pick the opening point to the big circulation. It has
>nothing to do with the final temperature the engine reaches since that is
>over 200 deg. anyway. The only time the thermostat influences this is if
>it is broken and will not open but then your engine would run hot hot
>after 10 minutes the latest.
>
>Feel free to change your thermostat and fix the thread. I have heard from
>several people that they prefer low temp thermostats on significantly
>rebored engines and if yours is 60 over I would eventually switch to a
>lower temp thermostat. You will not get a grip on the slightly high
>temperature that way though.
>
>The only thing I could think of doing is changing the fan clutch. That is
>easy to do and may be (part of) the problem.
>
>Also I would get myself an aftermarket temperature gauge and install it
>(not permanently) but to control the reading of the stock gauge. You will
>get an idea if your car really runs slightly too hot. You could compare
>the temp from the aftermarket gauge to the temps of the engines of the
>listers with a similar setup. This will give you some confidence.
>
>> try to reinstall it. What is a good way to fix the threads if they a
>> stripped?
>As someone else already mentioned: Helicoil, available in every decent
>parts store. Just follow the info on the package it comes complete, you
>will not need any extra tools. Cost is arount 30 dollars. They work great
>on aluminium and will make the repaired thread even stronger then the
>original.
>
>Hope this helps. George
>

________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 01:41:01 -0600
From: "Jeff Newman" <newsance@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: What Holly for 455ci???

that better be a damn well built th200. I have heard those things grenade
real easy behind a 455.
- -----Original Message-----
From: gjcouse <gjcouse@francomm.com>
To: Olds Classic <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; G-body New
<oldsgmail@MailingList.Net>
Date: Thursday, April 29, 1999 7:24 AM
Subject: What Holly for 455ci???


>OK everyone,
>
>In researching the Offy intake on the 455 I'm about to get. All info
confirm
>it's only for a Holly square bore carb. Yes I could get an adapter for you
>purists out there but that's a no go. I need the under hood room. I'll
>already lose 1/2" to a N2O plate system. Can't spare any more. So for you
>Holly equipped Olds BB's out there. Tell me what carb your running, Jets
>etc. I need info now to order the carb I'll drop on this. Please include
any
>cable bracketry I'll also need. I do believe the Th200-4R has the TV cable
>that will need be connected too so there's so me fiddling work needed here.
>You can respond privately through either address below if you wish to
remain
>anonymous, Hehe.       Gary....
>
>-----Regards,
>
>Gary J. Couse
>Couse Custom's
>
>ICQ# 5209322
>gjcouse@francomm.com
>gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com
>
>Custom Conversion Prototype:
>CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
>http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
>
>

________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 13:43:56 -0600
From: "Jeff Newman" <newsance@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: 1953 Olds Info

Sounds cool, But don't expect the engine to run, or even be rebuildable.
Expect to replace everything rubber in the car, and all gaskets. Good luck!
- -----Original Message-----
From: Reed, Stephen <sreed@chatsworth.com>
To: 'Olds' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 8:09 AM
Subject: REQ: 1953 Olds Info


>Hey List!
> I have just found out about a 1953 Olds from a guy at work.
>Apparently the cars has been off the road since 1970.  It's been in a barn
>in the middle of the boonies here in Texas.  The guy tells me that the car
>is his Aunt's, and that she hasn't done anything with the car since her
>husband died some time ago.  The last year the car was on the road was
1970.
>Apparently it's in incredible shape; interior and exterior.
> I have only hear about the car so far, and have not seen it.  Can
>list members tell me what models were available that year (I'm only
familiar
>with the muscle car era), and the value of each model for that year?  The
>only information I have is that it's a 2 door.
>
>I told my dad about it last night and he got psyched to get it!!
>
>Also if anyone has a web page (or know of one) that would have a picture of
>a 53 model, let me know so I can show dad.  His memory is a little foggy
and
>would like to see a picture of one.
>
>With any luck we'll get dad back into the driver's seat of an Olds!!
>
>Thanks!
>
>Steve Reed
>Austin, TX
>

________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 01:44:20 -0600
From: "Jeff Newman" <newsance@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Theft deterrent systems

You should hook the same thing to hood ornaments. Persomake sthemselves
extra crispy by pulling on it.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, April 29, 1999 9:48 AM
Subject: Theft deterrent systems


>
>  I wonder if there's a way to rig the driver's seat so that it shoots
>50,000 volts into whoever is in the seat if a certain button isn't held
>down or a toggle switch isn't shut off :^)  That would definitely stop
>the thief.  Only problem is that one time where you forget to do the
>switch thing yourself :^o
>
>Stefan
>1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
>70Cutlass@Beer.com
>_________________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>

________________________________________________________
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Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 12:30:06 -0700
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re: REQ: 1991 Cutlass Help

>Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 11:26:39 -0400
>From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
>Subject: Re: REQ: 1991 Cutlass Help

>Since it was cheap dad & I replaced it, and still got the same code
today...

>Does anyone have any suggestions as where to go from here?
_______

>It's been a while since I worked on an Olds with a computer, but don't you
need
>to actively clear the error codes after fixing the problem?  I seem to
recall
>something about temporarily disconnecting the memory wire to the computer,
or
>something like that.  Anyone have more details?

>_REAL_ cars don't have operating systems!   ;-)

>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com

Joe,
	Yes I neglected to add this info to the post, but yes I did clear
the codes from the ECM.  Those two years of automotive college knowledge do
come in handy.

Steve Reed
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 16:41:46 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: 1903 Curved Dash Oldsmobile (replica) (fwd)

I received this personally... seems to me I heard of this too but can't
recall specifics. Anyone know? Please c.c. any info to
ralphcompton@earthlink.net

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: "Ralph K. Compton" <ralphcompton@earthlink.net>
Subject: 1903 Curved Dash Oldsmobile (replica)

I have heard of someone manufacturing the 1903 CDO in Connecticut but am
unable to get much info.  Can you point me in a direction?

Thanks, Ralph

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 15:01:10 -0500
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas.Martin@motorola.com>
Subject: Re: REQ: 1991 Cutlass Help

From the GN Site, http://www.gnttype.org we have this info.

CODE 43 

Trouble Code 43 indicates that there may be a malfunction in the Electronic
Spark Control (ESC) circuit. ESC is used to sense spark knock (pinging) and
retard the timing to eliminate it. The knock sensor is located at the rear
of the engine block. The ECM will retard the timing by as much as 20 degrees
in 1 degree increments. A loss of knock sensor signal or loss of ground at
the ESC module will cause the signal at the ECM to remain high. The ECM will
act as if no knock is present, and may possibly result in engine damage, due
to detonation.

Code 43 is set when:

- - Engine is running

- - ESC input signal has been low more than 3 seconds

Possible causes:

1) Open or shorted knock sensor

2) Loose knock sensor

3) Excessive mechanical noise within engine

4) Improper or incorrectly installed PROM or CALPACK in the ECM or defective
ECM

5) Intermittent open in the EST line to the ignition module

Hope this helps!  These guys have effectively dissected the GM ECM in the
turbo hot rods.

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 16:05:50 -0400
From: "Jim and Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: 1971 442 W30

Never guess what I found...well I quess you did since it is in the subject
line!  Anyway, friends have been telling me for over a month about this 442
they kept seeing.  Yesterday they drew me a map and today I went to check it
out.  Awesome!  Just what I really want!  a '71 442 W30 gold with black
stripes, W25 hood and a 4 speed.  I did get to look at it long since the
gentleman that owns the car was on his lunch break and needed to get back to
work.  He said it wasn't for sale but probably would be soon since his wife
wants him to get rid of it.  He said that when he does want to sell it he
wants $4k.  I didn't get to look at it long but the owner said the car had
125k on the motor with a rebuild at 100k.  The interior looked okay but
probaby needed some work and the exterior appeared to need some rust repair
and definately paint job.  I left him my number but would like to
authenticate the car before I consider it.  If the car were authentic is $4k
a good price?  Let me know.

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible  OCA# 031463
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 13:21 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: Q-jet on 360 Mopar

>>Igor, Chrysler Corp. did in fact use the Rochester Quadrajet on
>>small-block Mopar engines after about 1985 or so...
____________________________________________

>Really?  I'm not that Mopar literate.  I always assumed the T-quad 
>was their spreadbore of choice, though I do know that the Q-jet was 
>used on the Ford Super Cobra Jet 429s.  Payback I guess, for Olds 
>using the CJ air cleaner flapper on the 69 H/O  ;-)
>
>Joe Padavano
____________________________________________

I think Carter couldn't keep up with all the increasingly stringent 
emissions requirements, and sometime in the mid 80's Chrysler switched 
to Rochester Q-jets. Interesting sidenote, I just bought a book on 
Mopar cop cars from 1979-1985 (I already have another book covering 
the earlier, glory years of Mopar cop cars) and in this book they say 
that the Michigan police force rejected the new Mopars with the 
Q-jets, finding them much weaker than the previous years 
ThermoQuad-equipped cars. After some investigation Chrysler found that 
part of the problem was heat-related; the Q-jets were susceptible to 
percolation, while the plastic-bodied ThermoQuad's resist heat better.
All the same, the Q-jet could meet emissions requirements and the 
ThermoQuad could not, so that was that.

In one of David Vizard's two "How to make horsepower" books he 
discusses the Q-jet, he says that by "porting" a Q-jet air-flow up to 
about 1000cfm is available without reducing the metering signal at 
all, hence you can have a 1000cfm carburetor with the driveability of 
a stock Q-jet.  This is done by essentially smoothing the airflow path 
through the carburetor, cleaning up the factory casting flash and 
ridges, thinning the throttle shafts, knife-edging the throttle 
blades, etc.

If I ever get a spare Q-jet I may try this some time, sounds like it 
might be an educational experience!

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 13:27:44 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Theft deterrent systems

>You should hook the same thing to hood ornaments. Persons make
>themselves extra crispy by pulling on it.

J.C. Whitney was offering a hood ornament switch for tying in the hood 
ornament to the alarm system. Anybody pulling on the hood ornament would 
trigger it...

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 13:25 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: I apologize (spring fling post was accident)

Sorry, that post was supposed to go to the Mopar Mailing List, I 
accidentally sent it to the Olds list. Doh! Now I can join the list of 
luckless people who have embarassed themselves by posting something to 
the wrong place.

- -John Carri

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 13:33:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: "R.Strachan" <creature48212@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 1903 Curved Dash Oldsmobile (replica) (fwd)

I know the R.E.Olds museum in Lansing Mi. has a 1904
Curve Dash .Maybe they can connect you to someone
who knows something about a 1903 Curve Dash.

       Rick    Detroit
       69 Cutlass 'S'

- --- Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca> wrote:
> I received this personally... seems to me I heard of
> this too but can't
> recall specifics. Anyone know? Please c.c. any info
> to
> ralphcompton@earthlink.net
> 
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth,
> Nova Scotia, Canada
> 
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: "Ralph K. Compton"
> <ralphcompton@earthlink.net>
> Subject: 1903 Curved Dash Oldsmobile (replica)
> 
> I have heard of someone manufacturing the 1903 CDO
> in Connecticut but am
> unable to get much info.  Can you point me in a
> direction?
> 
> Thanks, Ralph
> 
> 

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 13:33:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: "R.Strachan" <creature48212@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 1903 Curved Dash Oldsmobile (replica) (fwd)

I know the R.E.Olds museum in Lansing Mi. has a 1904
Curve Dash .Maybe they can connect you to someone
who knows something about a 1903 Curve Dash.

       Rick    Detroit
       69 Cutlass 'S'

- --- Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca> wrote:
> I received this personally... seems to me I heard of
> this too but can't
> recall specifics. Anyone know? Please c.c. any info
> to
> ralphcompton@earthlink.net
> 
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth,
> Nova Scotia, Canada
> 
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: "Ralph K. Compton"
> <ralphcompton@earthlink.net>
> Subject: 1903 Curved Dash Oldsmobile (replica)
> 
> I have heard of someone manufacturing the 1903 CDO
> in Connecticut but am
> unable to get much info.  Can you point me in a
> direction?
> 
> Thanks, Ralph
> 
> 

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 13:39:42 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: REQ: 1991 Cutlass Help

>From the GN Site, http://www.gnttype.org we have this info.
>
>CODE 43
>
>Trouble Code 43 indicates that there may be a malfunction in the
>Electronic Spark Control (ESC) circuit. ESC is used to sense spark
>knock (pinging) and retard the timing to eliminate it. The knock
>sensor is located at the rear of the engine block. The ECM will
>retard the timing by as much as 20 degrees in 1 degree increments.

Okay so far...

>A loss of knock sensor signal or loss of ground at the ESC module
>will cause the signal at the ECM to remain high. The ECM will act
>as if no knock is present, and may possibly result in engine damage,
>due to detonation.

I can't quote chapter and verse, but this doesn't sound like what I read. I 
remember the manual as saying that if the sensor wasn't giving a reading 
(e.g. open circuit), timing would be retarded in order to prevent knocking.

Certainly the Celebrity I was working on ran like a dog while the code was 
set (Check Engine light blazing away on the dash), and if I was writing the 
ECM software, I'd certainly retard the timing "just in case" if I wasn't 
getting a signal from the knock sensor; I wouldn't assume full speed ahead 
if the knock sensor was out of service. I can certainly say that the 
Celebrity didn't knock while the sensor was out of commission, and got 
noticeably zippier immediately after it was repaired.

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 16:55:41 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: 1971 442 W30

Jim,
 First thing to do is verify that it's a W-30.   For a quick check it should
have:
red fender wells, aluminum intake, "H" head castings, manual brakes, no A/C,
must be a Lansing car so 7th character in VIN # should be M.  I believe the 
carb
number should be 7041256 (somebody please check me on this).  According to the
price guides on older cars, a legitimate W-30 is worth about 1/3 more than a
standard 442, give or take.

Dude

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 17:26:18 -0400
From: "John Richmond" <richmond@tir.com>
Subject: Re: 1953 Olds Info

>I don't remember where I got it but here's a pic of a 53 Olds Fiesta.
Don't
>know much about the pre-64 cars myself but I would jump at this chance
>to learn if I could.

I was at the Michigan International Classic Car Auction put on by RM Classic
Car Productions and Kruse International last weekend. A similar 53 Fiesta
conv. went for $67,000. They were saying it was the most desirable car in
it's day, have any of you heard that before.

John Richmond
richmond@tir.com  or  jwr10@daimlerchrysler.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 17:44:25 -0400
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <TJACQUILLARD@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: Re Gearless Good news

Now hold up, GM dealer here told me one bottle per diff. Which is true?
LMK please,
T.J.

Gene Gilpin wrote:

> One more thing about the additive. Make sure you put in enough. The GM
> stuff comes in little bottles. 1 bottle of additive for every qt of gear
> oil. Use the right weight of oil. Your gear guy should be able to recomend 
it.
>
> Omega MAn
>
> At 09:56 PM 4/29/99 -0400, you wrote:
> >The Cutlass went up on the hoist today the posi & ring & pinion were removed
> >and were found to be in good condition, and no fault could be found. The oil
> >looked bad and a different additive will be used, hopefully this will solve
> >any clutch chatter that I was having before. It looks like some of the noise
> >was coming from the driveshaft rubbing the exhaust, but the Mech. said he
> >will set up the rear a bit different to try and reduce any play in the used
> >ring & pinion just incase that was part of the problem (sorry not sure of
> >the exact terms that were used to describe the new set up) something about
> >readjusting the gear lash and preload of the pinion. So I should be getting
> >the car back tomorrow some times you get lucky, so I should only be out
> >about 200$ Can for the work. Well that's better than 1200$ any day. I must
> >put a plug in for the shop as this gentleman has helped me out quite a bit
> >with my 80 Cutlass. If anyone should need any work done and live in or
> >around Toronto call
> >David Stirk Ent. (DSE Automotive LTD)
> >located on Hwy 10 Brampton
> >(905) 846-2682
> >As far as I know he has put together some fast cars and has the best
> >reputation in the Brampton and surrounding area for his work with Drag, &
> >Street cars
> >
> >Kevin Grant
> >80 Cutlass Supreme
> >
> >
> >
> >

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 17:51:53 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: Carlisle(where was everyone?)

well if we all had an Olds Hat or Shirt or something, that would be a good 
way to let people know at the grandstand that we are Olds Nuts!!
Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 17:25:45 -0500
From: "Stephan" <zappa@goodthing.net>
Subject: RE: Do tell.

I would like this info also if possible.

Stephan
70 GoldOlds

- -----Original Message-----
From:	oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of gjcouse
Sent:	Wednesday, April 28, 1999 9:38 PM
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:	Do tell.

I always us magetic relay switches, like you would find on windows and at
the base of doors, and hide the unit below a thin fabric part of the
interior(above the headliner in my 65's). All that is needed to trigger the
relay, either open or closed, is to pass an ordinary magnet across the exact
area where the switch is concealed. I have magbetic Olds emlems on my key
chains for this purpose. It is nearly impossible for a "perp" to find and
activate. I have even installed them behind customers plastic dashes. Since
there is no toggle switch to look for, this has been the stealthiest way I
have learned.

Collyn
Ooooo, Hot Damn, I Gotta here more about this. Set me up with a system for
Quincy. I'll buy/install the parts.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----
"Windows-98 is a 32 bit extension and Graphical shell
for a 16 bit patch to an 8 bit operating system originally
coded for a 4 bit microprocessor, written by a 2 bit
company, that can't stand 1 bit of competition."
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ---

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 18:20:00 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Re Gearless Good news

one bottle to a diffy
- ----- Original Message -----
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <TJACQUILLARD@InfoAve.Net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, April 30, 1999 4:44 PM
Subject: Re: Re Gearless Good news


> Now hold up, GM dealer here told me one bottle per diff. Which is true?
> LMK please,
> T.J.
>
> Gene Gilpin wrote:
>
> > One more thing about the additive. Make sure you put in enough. The GM
> > stuff comes in little bottles. 1 bottle of additive for every qt of gear
> > oil. Use the right weight of oil. Your gear guy should be able to
recomend it.
> >
> > Omega MAn
> >
> > At 09:56 PM 4/29/99 -0400, you wrote:
> > >The Cutlass went up on the hoist today the posi & ring & pinion were
removed
> > >and were found to be in good condition, and no fault could be found.
The oil
> > >looked bad and a different additive will be used, hopefully this will
solve
> > >any clutch chatter that I was having before. It looks like some of the
noise
> > >was coming from the driveshaft rubbing the exhaust, but the Mech. said
he
> > >will set up the rear a bit different to try and reduce any play in the
used
> > >ring & pinion just incase that was part of the problem (sorry not sure
of
> > >the exact terms that were used to describe the new set up) something
about
> > >readjusting the gear lash and preload of the pinion. So I should be
getting
> > >the car back tomorrow some times you get lucky, so I should only be out
> > >about 200$ Can for the work. Well that's better than 1200$ any day. I
must
> > >put a plug in for the shop as this gentleman has helped me out quite a
bit
> > >with my 80 Cutlass. If anyone should need any work done and live in or
> > >around Toronto call
> > >David Stirk Ent. (DSE Automotive LTD)
> > >located on Hwy 10 Brampton
> > >(905) 846-2682
> > >As far as I know he has put together some fast cars and has the best
> > >reputation in the Brampton and surrounding area for his work with Drag,
&
> > >Street cars
> > >
> > >Kevin Grant
> > >80 Cutlass Supreme
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 20:17:32 EDT
From: CUTLASS442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Only 1973 Toronado known to exist!

Mike

No, he didn't......lololololol I didn't catch it either.

Richard
1967 "Oldsmobuick" Cutlass

<< 
 Did "Lummox" (he said it, I didn't) account for the 
 3,000 extra miles he cites in one of his posts?
 
 Mike Sealey
 '69 Ninety Eight Holiday Sedan >>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 21:16:51 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1971 442 W30

In a message dated 04/30/1999 4:48:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
retrorockets@snet.net writes:

<< First thing to do is verify that it's a W-30.   For a quick check it should
 have:
 red fender wells, aluminum intake, "H" head castings, manual brakes, no A/C,
 must be a Lansing car so 7th character in VIN # should be M.  >>

Didn't we discuss this last week??  The 70 and 71 W-30 could have A/C and 
power brakes because of the milder cam then the 68 and 69 W-30.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 21:31:20 EDT
From: LPBuilder@aol.com
Subject: Re: Weatherstriping

   There is a company called Metro. They have what you're looking for I saw 
it in the 
new catalog. They make all the weatherstripping that the dealers sell and 
mark up.
Deal with one of there rep's and save even more. I just bought a whole set 
for my
convertible at carlisle. Hope this helps.

Metro 1-800-878-2237

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 20:40:09 -0500 (CDT)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Dr. Olds - K. Wood)
Subject: Rear Main Seal.

Ok-- after about 30 minutes of running time with my 455 (in a 72 Olds
Cutlass), the F*rd 460 
two piece rear main seal holds oil.  I will post
info in the future if it gives me any trouble.  Incidentally, just for
reference, I used a FelPro
part number BS 40032.  I ran it without the 
transmission in the car-- just the torque converter bolted on so far.
We'll see if it holds
oil after going 80 MPH and then parking it
facing up a hill!

Take Care Olds Friends.
Kevin D. Wood
Dr-Olds@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 20:44:23 -0500 (CDT)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Dr. Olds - K. Wood)
Subject: Variable Pitch Trans.

Last night I asked about a variable pitch transmission, and I think I
get it now.  When
12V is applied to the extra terminal on this
tranny, I should get about an additional 1000
RPM stall- or somewhere in that area.  Pretty
strange. 

Anyway- Here are the numbers on the transmission data plate--- SORRY but
it is
a Buick unit.. Can anybody out there identify
this?  I have no records of Buick's stuff.

"Super Turbine"
B 67  243   T
serial no#  BT-67  15548

Any info would be great!
Kevin 
Dr-Olds@webtv.net

P.S.  Please forgive me... A Buick Tranny, and
a GTO posi rear-end.  At least it's all made by
the good old General...

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 21:53:34 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Carlisle - Year One

If you picked up a Year One Catalog at Carlisle there was an insert that has 
a show special.

FREE UPS Ground Shipping until 5/4/99.  Use special code - S4299 - When 
ordering.

Just thought I'd let the people that could not get to Carlisle know.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 22:00:04 EDT
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: cams & mufflers

i recently installed a set of hooker aerochambers on my car.  they are 2.25 
but i welded them to the factory pipes.  the car seemed to run fine and i 
thought they were a little quetet and sounded kinda funny.  well today i 
swapped out the camshaft in my car and the mufflers actually sound alot 
better.  i put in an edelbrock performer rpm cam.  everything went ok except 
for the oil pan gaskets.  the whole cam swap only took me about 6 hours.  has 
anyone ever had a similar situation like this?

mikeytvb@aol.com
70 442 hc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 22:41:41 EDT
From: S61starfir@aol.com
Subject: Re: Window regulator

In a message dated 4/30/99 10:37:25 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
sparker442@banet.net writes:

<< 
 List Folks: 'Looking for a driver's side window regulator for a 71 442
 Conv.  'Anyone know of a source?  Doesn't appear to be a catalog
 item...       Thanks.
 Scott Parker
 71 442 Conv. (in the spray booth next Monday!!)
 
  >>
Is this for power or manual windows? if its for manual windows I can help
e-mail me privately  at Antiqolds@aol.com

Everett    OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 22:42:36 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1971 442 W30

In a message dated 4/30/99 9:18:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
LOUS69W30@aol.com writes:

<< << First thing to do is verify that it's a W-30.   For a quick check it 
should
  have:
  red fender wells, aluminum intake, "H" head castings, manual brakes, no A/C,
  must be a Lansing car so 7th character in VIN # should be M.  >>
 
 Didn't we discuss this last week??  The 70 and 71 W-30 could have A/C and 
 power brakes because of the milder cam then the 68 and 69 W-30.
  >>

The 71 W30s were available with a/c and power brakes , when you got them you 
also got the lesser cam....but the 328 was still available on the 
REAL W30 of 71.......Hot Rod Harry <A 
HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/">HOT ROD HARRY'S OLDSMOBILES
</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 23:00:52 -0400
From: EJ <oldsluvr@bellatlantic.net>
Subject: Back from Vegas.....

Well I'm back. No such luck geting rich quick, but I had a great time
nevertheless. Weather was nice the first few days, but it was rather
cool and raining most of the day yesterday(Thurs).

Took some pretty cool road trips when we were out there. You cant just
go to gamble y'know ;). Checked out 2 really neat places. Oatman
Arizona, and Zion National Park(Utah). Oatman was like a "ghost town",
really interesting, almost like being in the "old west". I kept
imagining one of those "ten paces turn and fire" kind of things, or
being told to "get out of town by sundown" by the sheriff.

Zion National Park is pretty amazing as well. Absolutely beautiful !!!.
Got a snapshot of a porcupine(?) sleeping in a tree.

It was also pretty cool being on highways where you can do 75 mph
*legally*. Course', most of us tend to +/- 10mph, when it comes to speed
limits. I *myself*, was cruising along between 75-85 out in the ol' dry
desert most of the time. It's really amazing. Most people actually seem
to know *how* to drive comfortably and safely along at that speed. You
don't find the reckless stupidity out there that you tend to find here
*all* the time.

Also went to a car show at the Imperial Casino right in Vegas close to
where we stayed. Had a whole room dedicated to Dusenbergs(?), pretty
neat.

BTW......

All you Toro guys and gals be on the lookout for a question.

EJ


- -- 
"EJ"  In Hamilton Township, New Jersey, suburb of Trenton
On digest where availabile, not regular mail
http://members.tripod.com/Olds_luvr/photoalbum/photoalbum/index.html
E-Mail: oldsluvr@bellatlantic.net
                               The "Fleet"
1979 Pontiac "Olds organ donor" Trans Am. (FOR SALE !!!)
1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais. 
1985 Oldsmobile Toronado.
1992 Lincoln Mark VII LSC. 
1992 Ford F-250 Reg-Cab 4WD Pick-Up.
1994 Toyota Camry Sedan (my other halves ride).

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 22:05:54 -0500
From: "zappa" <zappa@microgear.net>
Subject: changing email address

How do I go about changing my email address with the mailing list? Just
re-subscribe with the new one?

Stephan
70 GoldOlds

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 23:19:43 EDT
From: FIFTY7C@aol.com
Subject: '68 High vol. alum water pump

Can someone point me in the right direction. I need a water pump for a '68 
350.  I would like to find a high volume aluminum pump. Summit has one that 
fits a '72. Any chance this will work? Any idea where else I might look?

Thanks,
Ray

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 23:33:49 EDT
From: FIFTY7C@aol.com
Subject: re: Minnesota body shop

A few weeks ago someone was asking for a recommendation for a good body shop 
in Minnesota. The guy who did my '68 Cutlass had the following words of 
wisdom when I questioned his work. "The dents in the hood are normal 'metal 
flex' " -- (What ever the hell that is).  "The rust coming through is not 
uncommon for a new paint job."
He is proud of his work and become angry when I pointed out the flaw that 
would make anyone's eyes bleed. I never got to the "just poor workmanship" 
such as all the door dings still there, paint runs, etc.. 

Sooo..... Do not use Joe Krisnik in Eagan, Minnesota.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 00:29:17 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: 1971 442 W30

Lou,

The milder cam is used on the W-30s with automatics on which you could get A/C 
and
power brakes.  The 4-speed cars, like the one in question, had the big cam and
therefore no A/C or power brakes.

Just to throw another curve at this; I believe you could only get the A/C if 
the
rear end ratio was 3.42 or higher (lower numerically).  Somebody out there is 
sure
to know.

Dude

LOUS69W30@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 04/30/1999 4:48:23 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> retrorockets@snet.net writes:
>
> << First thing to do is verify that it's a W-30.   For a quick check it 
should
>  have:
>  red fender wells, aluminum intake, "H" head castings, manual brakes, no A/C,
>  must be a Lansing car so 7th character in VIN # should be M.  >>
>
> Didn't we discuss this last week??  The 70 and 71 W-30 could have A/C and
> power brakes because of the milder cam then the 68 and 69 W-30.
>
> Lou Principe
> 69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 23:30:03 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: cams & mufflers

Why are you monkeying around with oil pan gaskets if you were changing your
cam?

At 10:00 PM 4/30/99 -0400, you wrote:
>i recently installed a set of hooker aerochambers on my car.  they are 2.25 
>but i welded them to the factory pipes.  the car seemed to run fine and i 
>thought they were a little quetet and sounded kinda funny.  well today i 
>swapped out the camshaft in my car and the mufflers actually sound alot 
>better.  i put in an edelbrock performer rpm cam.  everything went ok except 
>for the oil pan gaskets.  the whole cam swap only took me about 6 hours.
has 
>anyone ever had a similar situation like this?
>
>mikeytvb@aol.com
>70 442 hc
> 
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 00:33:55 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: 1971 442 W30

> HRH,

I believe the 328 cam was only available with the 4-speeds in both '70 and '71.

Dude

>
> The 71 W30s were available with a/c and power brakes , when you got them you
> also got the lesser cam....but the 328 was still available on the
> REAL W30 of 71.......Hot Rod Harry <A
> HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/">HOT ROD HARRY'S OLDSMOBILES
> </A>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 00:28:08 EDT
From: Zitoj@aol.com
Subject: Frame off

Come on guys,

This is at least the third time I've asked, where is the the VIN deriviative 
on a 69 Cutlass/442 frame????  I can't find it on the naked frame I've got 
sitting in the garage

I'd like to know the answer soon, since I'll be  moving soon!!

Here's the deal, my   69 conv 442 has been sitting for the last 10 years and 
will get to be driven again soon but I'll be working it soon.

Here's the deal, my 442 needs lots off work, rust and dents all over, my plan 
is to do all the skull work on the body.  I intend to strip the body to bare 
metal and shoot it in por 15 and to also pop the body off the frame and have 
the frame dipped, hopefully galvanized and PRO15'ed.

Does anybody know where I should take the frame in the northeast? I'll need 
to have it squared up, stripped to bare metal and hopefullly plated 
(galvanized) and or POR 15ed.

Jim 
69 442 conv
 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 21:40:41 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: 1971 442 W30

Four42much@aol.com wrote:
> 
> 
> The 71 W30s were available with a/c and power brakes , when you got them you
> also got the lesser cam....but the 328 was still available on the
> REAL W30 of 71.......Hot Rod Harry <A



Actually, there were three cams used in 1971 W-30's.
And Mr. Nasty 328 wasn't one of them :-(
The following are the 1971 W-30 cam specs.  

1971 W-30 MT: 294/296 duration, .474" lift.
1971 W-30 AT w/o A/C: 286/287 duration, .474/.472" lift.
1971 W-30 AT with A/C: 285/287 duration, .472" lift.

1971 W-30's were available with air cond and/or 
power brakes only with the TH400.  Power brakes
or A/C were not available on 1971 W-30's with
4 speeds.

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
503-244-8249

Visit us at:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com
- ---------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 00:51:38 -0400
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Frame off

Jim

        It should be located on one of the rear frame rails. We have found
everyone on the chassis we have restored. They are about 1/4 - 3/8" letters and
numbers.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts




At 12:28 AM 5/1/1999 , you wrote:
>Come on guys,
>
>This is at least the third time I've asked, where is the the VIN deriviative 
>on a 69 Cutlass/442 frame????  I can't find it on the naked frame I've got 
>sitting in the garage
>
>I'd like to know the answer soon, since I'll be  moving soon!!
>
>Here's the deal, my   69 conv 442 has been sitting for the last 10 years and 
>will get to be driven again soon but I'll be working it soon.
>
>Here's the deal, my 442 needs lots off work, rust and dents all over, my plan 
>is to do all the skull work on the body.  I intend to strip the body to bare 
>metal and shoot it in por 15 and to also pop the body off the frame and have 
>the frame dipped, hopefully galvanized and PRO15'ed.
>
>Does anybody know where I should take the frame in the northeast? I'll need 
>to have it squared up, stripped to bare metal and hopefullly plated 
>(galvanized) and or POR 15ed.
>
>Jim 
>69 442 conv
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 30 Apr 1999 22:00:05 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: 1971 442 W30

retrorockets wrote:

> 
> Just to throw another curve at this; I believe you could only get the A/C if 
the
> rear end ratio was 3.42 or higher (lower numerically).  Somebody out there 
is sure
> to know.
> 


1971 W-30's with A/C (TH400 only) were only available
from the factory with 3.23's.  3.42 was the standard
ratio with TH400 (without A/C) and the M20 and M22 4 speeds.
With 3.73's being the optional factory ratio for either
AT (exc. A/C) or MT 1971 W-30's.  



Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

See our 1971 W-30 at:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 01:47:09 EDT
From: Zeilmanns@aol.com
Subject: 69 4-4-2 Firewall paint stamps

Let me try this another way...

Thank you to those who responded, but I still am clueless as to what the 
paint stamps on the firewall should be.  So, for anyone who has a '69 4-4-2, 
when you have a moment, please take a look on your firewall at the rubber 
stamped painted letters (if they are still there), and let me know what you 
have.  Greg best described what they look like:

>(and seen) over the years did not have any "rubber 
>stamp" on the firewall, others have.  It is a non A/C car, and 
>has the following paint codes located just above 
>the grommet for the heater blower motor wire:      
                
>To the left:  U U in yellow paint.
>To the right:  F F in turquoise paint.              

>Both of these letter codes are enclosed in a box
>of the same color as the letters.  The boxes 
>measure 7/8" tall by 1 1/8" wide.

SO far, these colors seem to be most common, but I still would like to find 
out what should be on a '69 442 from lansing (w/ a/c).  Thanks for the GREAT 
description Greg!  By the way, does anyone know what these even stand for, 
and have a chart for these?

I do appreciate everyones help, and I thank all of you for your responses.

Best Regards,

Jeff Zeilmann
'69 4-4-2
'69 Cutlass Convertible
zeilmanns@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 01:06:52 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Smoking Alternator??

I drove my 72 to the track (Route 66 Joliet, IL) and I came across a
problem when I got there. I have an Auto Meter volt gauge and the read
about 14.5 Volts while driving there. Later when starting the car the volts
at idle was around 15-16 and when I accelerated they jumped to 16 1/2. I
turned the car off and found that the alternator was smoking.

Then my "generator" light came on. It would stay on even though the car was
turned off the the keys were out of the ignition. So I came to the
conclusion that the external voltage regulator went bad and replaced that
along with a new alternator. The "generator" light stayed off when the car
was off and the volts stayed at 14.5 while driving.

My questions:

1. Would the voltage regulator going bad cause the alternator have too mant
volts and burn itself out?
2. Why would the external voltage regulator go bad when it was 1 week old
and was a Borg /Worner unit?
 

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 01:12:49 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Volt Readings...

On my 72 442 I have an external voltage regulator. My gauge will read a
constant 14.5 -14.0 volts while driving. At idle at a stop the gauge will
jump up from 14.5 to 15.5 in a split second. Sometimes it will do this
once, other times it will jump a couple of times while at idle. 

My question is why is it doing this? Could it be the way the car idles with
the cam that it makes the alternator jump? Is it a loose ground?

Also at times with the driving lights on at idle the lights will get
brighter for a split second at the same time the volt gauge jumps frpm 14.5
- - 15.5.

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 01:16:06 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Ring Seating

How about Childs & Albert Zero Gap Rings?
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@CWIX.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Ring Seating
> Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 7:44 AM
> 
> iron rings seat at about 500 miles moly rings seat in the first fifteen
> minutes of run time chromoly rings take 1500 miles to seat varied rpm is
> best under load not free revs
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 01:20:33 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Ring Seating

I have Childs 7 Albert Zero Gap Rings. They told me to use transmission oil
when installing the pistons in the cylinder. They said to spread the trans
fluid on the wall instead of oil. 

When you say 3-5K. You mean 300-500 miles, right?
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Jeff Carter <blue442@webtv.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Ring Seating
> Date: Friday, April 30, 1999 11:05 AM
> 
> In the instructions for Total Seal gapless moly rings, they plainly
> state not to oil the rings.  They say the rings should be allowed to
> seat dry on cylinder walls.  They further recommend against synthetic
> oils until after 3-5k street miles.  
> 
> Jeff Carter

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 02:47:35 -0400
From: "R. Grant" <kgrant442@home.com>
Subject: 70 Cutlass (value)

I just seen a 70 Cutlass Convertible for sale all original w/ 310hp 350 auto
power windows SSII's (14" Cutlass rims) looked to be in good condition had
been repainted with no rust on the body but some minor rust on the underside
of it. Looked to be from Calgary as it had the name of the dealership on it,
it was gold with gold interior buckets with console. I was wondering what
the value of this car would be I figure about 9000$ Can or 6500$ US The
place that has it for sale is asking 16500$ Can for this car. If I was going
to spend that much on a Olds it would be on a 70 442 Convertible 4 speed not
a Supreme. Am I wrong are the Supremes in good condition going for this type
of price? Note the paint on this car was not perfect I would even say that
it should be repainted, and something would have to be done to stop the
minor rust on the underside of the floor. The car was just outside of
Brampton Ontario in a little town called Norval if anyone in southern
Ontario is interested let me know and I can get the phone number. Please
note that 16500$ Can is about 10000$ US

Kevin Grant
80 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 02:40:55 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: 70 Cutlass (value)

Too high, too high.  MUCH too high.  Getting a nice 70 442 convertible
4-speed for that price would be a pretty damn good deal, but not for a
Cutlass...

Look at it this way.  I once (a long time ago, when I was more stupid than
I am now) had an opportunity to purchase a '69 442 convertible, original
400/400, ps, pb, pw, nice radio, nice SS-II wheels, power antenna, etc. AND
production number 100004 (most likely the first convertible off the line
that year) for the grand total of $8500 US.

THIS was a steal, but not an absurdly low price.  $10,000 US should get you
what you want, and from what you've mentioned below, that is not this Cutlass.

At 02:47 AM 5/1/99 -0400, you wrote:
>I just seen a 70 Cutlass Convertible for sale all original w/ 310hp 350 auto
>power windows SSII's (14" Cutlass rims) looked to be in good condition had
>been repainted with no rust on the body but some minor rust on the underside
>of it. Looked to be from Calgary as it had the name of the dealership on it,
>it was gold with gold interior buckets with console. I was wondering what
>the value of this car would be I figure about 9000$ Can or 6500$ US The
>place that has it for sale is asking 16500$ Can for this car. If I was going
>to spend that much on a Olds it would be on a 70 442 Convertible 4 speed not
>a Supreme. Am I wrong are the Supremes in good condition going for this type
>of price? Note the paint on this car was not perfect I would even say that
>it should be repainted, and something would have to be done to stop the
>minor rust on the underside of the floor. The car was just outside of
>Brampton Ontario in a little town called Norval if anyone in southern
>Ontario is interested let me know and I can get the phone number. Please
>note that 16500$ Can is about 10000$ US
>
>Kevin Grant
>80 Cutlass Supreme
> 
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 02:41:17 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: cams & mufflers

Why are you monkeying around with oil pan gaskets if you were changing your
cam?

At 10:00 PM 4/30/99 -0400, you wrote:
>i recently installed a set of hooker aerochambers on my car.  they are 2.25 
>but i welded them to the factory pipes.  the car seemed to run fine and i 
>thought they were a little quetet and sounded kinda funny.  well today i 
>swapped out the camshaft in my car and the mufflers actually sound alot 
>better.  i put in an edelbrock performer rpm cam.  everything went ok except 
>for the oil pan gaskets.  the whole cam swap only took me about 6 hours.
has 
>anyone ever had a similar situation like this?
>
>mikeytvb@aol.com
>70 442 hc
> 
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 06:33:28 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <hurstolds@duesouth.net>
Subject: Re: 1971 442 W30

reduced sound deadener; none in the trunklid (sounds like an empty drum 
closing the
lid) and thinner firewall pad and no body shutz crap in the rear wheel wells.  
A/C
cars were with 3.23 only I do believe.  I could be wrong here, since I'm going 
from
memory.

This thread has me wondering...I recall at Old Town in Kissimmee, FL last 
weekend,
there was a blue/blue 71 "w-30", I think, that was for sale for 20K.  To me it 
looked
more like it was worth around 8K.  Straight and clean body, but had 72 rocket 
between
the grilles, fender 442 emblems on the trunk, repro spoiler and red inner 
fenders, and
the fender 442 emblems were placed way too high on the front fenders.  Had 72
headlight bezels, or at least painted to LOOK like 72s, and 72 grille "hood  
chrome".
It did however have the 442 on the glovebox and rocket emblems on the door 
panels,
correct for 71.  Didn't crawl UNDER the car to check for the tranny tag (auto 
with
dual gate), but it seemed to have the "correct" look.  Except the hood wasn't 
open and
the VIN was covered up from the for sale sign.  Never found the owner, and 
they left
before I found them.  Just curious.  I wanted to see the engine.  That would 
have told
a lot.

Mike Rothe

> The milder cam is used on the W-30s with automatics on which you could get 
A/C and
> power brakes.  The 4-speed cars, like the one in question, had the big cam 
and
> therefore no A/C or power brakes.
>
> Just to throw another curve at this; I believe you could only get the A/C if 
the
> rear end ratio was 3.42 or higher (lower numerically).  Somebody out there 
is sure
> to know.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 06:40:23 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <hurstolds@duesouth.net>
Subject: Re: 69 4-4-2 Firewall paint stamps

My 69 H/O (non-A/C) doesn't have ANY paint stamps on the firewall that I could
find.  It's still a 442 really, so I think it would qualify.  The black paint
there is original, so if there was anything there, it should have showed SOME
signs I would imagine, but I can't see a thing.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 07:21:46 -0400
From: Gene Gatti <jerseydevil@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Volt Readings...

Hi Peter,
   On the rear of the engine there should be a copper braided strap that
connects to the firewall. Make sure it is there and making good contact.
This might solve your problem. TTYL,
Gene

At 01:12 AM 5/1/99 -0500, you wrote:
>On my 72 442 I have an external voltage regulator. My gauge will read a
>constant 14.5 -14.0 volts while driving. At idle at a stop the gauge will
>jump up from 14.5 to 15.5 in a split second. Sometimes it will do this
>once, other times it will jump a couple of times while at idle. 
>
>My question is why is it doing this? Could it be the way the car idles with
>the cam that it makes the alternator jump? Is it a loose ground?
>
>Also at times with the driving lights on at idle the lights will get
>brighter for a split second at the same time the volt gauge jumps frpm 14.5
>- 15.5.
>
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 1 May 1999 08:11:27 -0400
From: "Kevin Grover" <atvman@rochester.rr.com>
Subject: toro suspension travel

Hey, I have this crazy idea to take a toro front end and slap it onto the
back of a dune buggy.  How much travel is there in the suspension, and can
it be modified easily to gain travel??  I saw a VW engine and tranny on the
back of a dune buggy and this got me thinking.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 01 May 1999 07:23:37 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: 69 4-4-2 Firewall paint stamps

my 69 442 built in fremont california has no such stamps it has not been
repainted at this time
it has a red grease pencil marking hand scribbled on the firewall...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Zeilmanns@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 1999 12:47 AM
Subject: 69 4-4-2 Firewall paint stamps


> Let me try this another way...
>
> Thank you to those who responded, but I still am clueless as to what the
> paint stamps on the firewall should be.  So, for anyone who has a '69
4-4-2,
> when you have a moment, please take a look on your firewall at the rubber
> stamped painted letters (if they are still there), and let me know what
you
> have.  Greg best described what they look like:
>
> >(and seen) over the years did not have any "rubber
> >stamp" on the firewall, others have.  It is a non A/C car, and
> >has the following paint codes located just above
> >the grommet for the heater blower motor wire:
>
> >To the left:  U U in yellow paint.
> >To the right:  F F in turquoise paint.
>
> >Both of these letter codes are enclosed in a box
> >of the same color as the letters.  The boxes
> >measure 7/8" tall by 1 1/8" wide.
>
> SO far, these colors seem to be most common, but I still would like to
find
> out what should be on a '69 442 from lansing (w/ a/c).  Thanks for the
GREAT
> description Greg!  By the way, does anyone know what these even stand for,
> and have a chart for these?
>
> I do appreciate everyones help, and I thank all of you for your responses.
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Jeff Zeilmann
> '69 4-4-2
> '69 Cutlass Convertible
> zeilmanns@aol.com
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1935
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