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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1995


oldsmobile-digest       Thursday, June 3 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1995



Re: Low cost of steel
Re: norwalk
Re: norwalk
Re: norwalk/why people race Cutlasses
Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos
Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos
Edelbrock carb.
(no subject)
Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy an Engine Plant?
Re: What's a Perfect Paint Job??
Re: Flex Fans (Electric)
[Fwd: What's a Perfect Paint Job??]
Re: I need a cragar mag.
Re: Low cost of steel
Re: Need advice
Re: What's a Perfect Paint Job??
Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos
Olds & Oil Pressure!!
Olds 455 MAX RPM
Re: greasing bushings (was weekend fun)
Goo Be Gone
Re: Raising engine
Re: Indy H/O meet (was: INDY)
Re: i want off the list
Re: norwalk
gas tank for 75 delta
Re: Rallye 350 for sale
Re: 72 Big Car convertible
Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy an Engine Plant?
Water Injection
Re: Flex Fans (Electric)
Re: Good Transmission Shops in D.C.--more info
Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy an Engine Plant?
Re: Flex Fans (Electric)
Re: Water Injection (long reply)
Re: Flex Fans (Electric)
Re: Say what, Y-motor?
Re: gas tank for 75 delta
Re: Olds 455 MAX RPM
Re: Water Injection
Tranny coolers...go - or no-go
Re: 1965 400 4 bbl intake
Re: Tranny coolers...go - or no-go
Re: Good Transmission Shops in D.C.--more info
Re: gas tank for 75 delta
Re: Goo Be Gone
Hypothetical Cold Air Induction System
Re: Tranny coolers...go - or no-go
Re: Hypothetical Cold Air Induction System
test
Re: Tranny coolers...go - or no-go
Re: Hypothetical Cold Air Induction System
Re: Tranny coolers...go - or no-go

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 23:24:01 EDT
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Low cost of steel

In a message dated 99-06-02 21:49:43 EDT, you write:

<< Well just took the majority of the rusted out 442 to the scrapyard. Went 
in 
 and told them I had a load of auto scrap.  They said to dump it over there.  
 I asked if I should drive on the scales first and they told me that the 
steel 
 market was depressed and it wasn't worth anything. BUMMER.  
 
 Question to ponder .... If steel isn't woth anything why are cars so 
 expensive these days??????
 
 PS Lots of parts still available.
 
  >>
Thats because the Japs, Brazilians, Russians and Chinese have dumped 52 
million tons of junk steel into this country.  America only consumes 
110million tons a year.  The good news is that steel is out of the system now 
and the big three are buying only high quality steels from US Steel, 
Bethleham, National, Werlington, AK and one other intergrated steel mill.

My .02 cents worth
regards Mark Prince
National Steel- Great Lakes Steel Division 
job: Millwright

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 23:26:20 EDT
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: norwalk

In a message dated 99-06-02 22:10:55 EDT, you write:

<< Can anyone tell me when the show is?  It's coming up, right?  Is this a 
good
 one?  It's got to be if it's all Olds.  I think I have to race a few people
 there or something...  Please hit "reply all" so I can get the info at work
 to take off the appropriate days...Thanks y'all.
 
  >>
The Dick Miller Oldsmobile Nationals is August 15th.  But we go the day 
before to compete in the regular program.  The gates open at 8:00 Sunday 
morning and 1:00pm on Sat for regular program.  The host hotel is the 
Amerihost and DM has secured a special block of rooms at a discount

regards 
 W MACHINES

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 23:27:10 EDT
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: norwalk

ALSO TRY  <A HREF="http://www.mspmall.com/dmr/">Dick Miller Racing, Inc.</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 23:28:44 EDT
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: norwalk/why people race Cutlasses

In a message dated 99-06-02 22:38:53 EDT, you write:

<< Why are the 90's cutlasses so popular in drag racing?  Is some reason other
 than the fact that they are Oldses and all should bow down and worship?
 There's got to be something else. >>
Because of the Aerodynamics.  Just ask the Jegs brothers.  They said they 
rather run the Olds than the Pontiac

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 22:39:56 -0500
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
Subject: Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos

OK dropped...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 7:12 PM
Subject: Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos


> Well I didn't want it to come over that way. It was not directed to you. I
> was just making a comment. Enough said, topic dropped...
>
>
> ----------
> > From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos
> > Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 6:32 PM
> >
> > Well excuse me pete I didnt think I would be stepping on anyones toes by
> > merely mentioning duralube I dont crawl under rocks I use all synthetic
> > lubricants ,and if I decide to run my engine without oil or coolant I
> will
> > try duralube, I am not saying that it doesnt work I am just saying that
> if
> > it sounds too good to be true it probably is I have seen the displays at
> > many car shows and so on and it doesnt impress me if it works so good
> then
> > there is no more need for engine oil I think it was castrol who had
their
> > syntec add with the engines that were just filled and drained then ran
> until
> > all locked up save one the syntec engine, As I have stated here many
> times I
> > use synthetics exclusively and I like to take apart an engine that looks
> as
> > good at 100,000 miles as it did with no miles as for the waxes I like
> > Carnauba from maguires I dont care for gimmicky car polishes either,
> since
> > most are merely silicone paste. you dont have to come off with this
> > condescending attitude I merely stated my opinion you may state yours
but
> > dont be insulting about it.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
> > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 5:24 PM
> > Subject: Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos
> >
> >
> > > As far as Duralube goes I honestly believe it can not hurt a motor in
> any
> > > way. People have put duralube in radiators and the car ran cooler.
> > Duralube
> > > has been even tested by Mondello and Mondello claims reduced bearing
> and
> > > cylinder wall wear with it. Synthetic oil does work better than
> > > conventional oil. That is a fact. If you don't believe that then go
> crawl
> > > back under the rock you came from. As far as Duralube it is a
> "synthetic"
> > > oil "additive" that probably does protect the engine parts.
> > >
> > > Also as far as new polishes coming out into the market. Some, if not
> most,
> > > are gimmicks. There are new waxes that work 1000 times better than old
> > > school technology. Technology has come a long way after the past
years.
> > > Waxes are better than they were 10 years ago. The same goes with oil
in
> > the
> > > 70's. Back then the conventional oil could not keep up with todays
> > > conventional oil.
> > > Pettrix@prodigy.net
> > >
> > > ----------
> > > > From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 22:45:28 -0500
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
Subject: Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos

by the way pete what do you think about putting some duralube in the gas? my
recent budget rebuilt 455 project does not have hardened seats and with no
lead fuel maybe a bit of dura in the tank may save the valves until I can do
the insert seats opinions?comments? curiosities?

there may be a use for this stuff yet!!!!!!!!...KK

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 00:06:00 -0400 (EDT)
From: GMcNeil@webtv.net (Gregory McNeil)
Subject: Edelbrock carb.

Hey,hows it going?
I've got a tuning question about an Edelbrock carb. I installed on my
car about a year ago.It's a 750 cfm. electric choke carb.The car runs
well enough but it does have a bit of a stumble when I stand on the gas
pedal though.I'm sure that problem can be cured with proper rods and
jets.My question is how do you properly adjust the idle mixture
screws?I've been told to adjust one screw at a time to obtain max
rpm,then lower idle speed to proper rpm.The problem is I get little or
no change in rpm whether I back the screw out a quarter turn or ten
turns.I was expecting to see a noticable change in rpm while adjusting.
How do you adjust these damn things??
Can anyone offer any kind of tuning tips?
Thanks
Greg
'70 Cutlass Supreme SX

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 00:06:53 EDT
From: BvilleStew@aol.com
Subject: (no subject)

Hello,
I always forget which "SS" wheel my '85 Salon has. 14" chrome ones. I've had 
this car since new. 3 wheels are perfect. One developed rust on the edge 3 
years ago. I've found one in another state (I live in Minnesota). Is it worth 
$75.00? 

        Thanks, Mike
85 Salon (waiting for it's 455 transplant)
X-owner
69 442
68 H/O
67 98 LS
66 L-69 
  
 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 22:38:49 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <charley@rocketship.com>
Subject: Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy an Engine Plant?

Corey Putnam wrote:
> 
>   I was thinking more in the line of making a 910 cubic inch, 4
> quadrajet, aluminum block, heads and intake  V-16 by putting two 455
> together. I`ll run that department I guess.
>    Sign me up, checks` in the mail.
> 
> Fit that in your Omega.

Or Starfire, ~77?  :)  <insert demonic ~hiss~ here>  :)

But for engines, since we're dreaming out loud, we ~can't~ forget a certain 
DOHC
455, circa 1970.....  GOTTA make those!!!  And stick 'em in a Starfire...  twin
engine, of course...  

Man, I'm gonna have to go get some beer, if I want any ide-ers to top ~that~
off!  :)


Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://drive.to/Oldsmagnet    See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 22:54:16 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <charley@rocketship.com>
Subject: Re: What's a Perfect Paint Job??

What's a Perfect Paint Job??

A myth.

- -----------------

Seems there's always ~someone~ gonna find fault with some aspect of it.  As for
what can be remedied, there are body-folks out there who are absolute 
magicians,
and can buff/clear out ~anything~ it seems.  Then there are those who can't get
a mirror to shine.....

As for what to expect, I guess $$$ would be a considerring factor.  If you're
paying for perfection, expect it by all means.  A $1K paint job won't win many
(any?) shows, but will be a drastic improvement.  A 10K paint job better not
have any runs, dust, orange peel, or any other blemishes to speak of.  

As for what judges will notice, etc, I've got no official experience there.  If
you'll be competing at shows, enlist the opinions of some judges, and make sure
your body guy ~knows~ you'll be showing it, and his (her?) name will be on
it...  and that you expect nothing less than perfection.  If you're just 
looking
at being a nice job, go with your gut.  If ~any~ aspect of the job seems odd to
you, chances are, it is.  Tell him you want to have time to inspect it in
various lights, indoors and out, since different lighting conditions will show
runs and color matching a little better.  Also keep inspecting it for months,
some chemical reactions may take a while to happen, peeling, flaking, etc. 
(Anyone remember the GM trucks of the early 80s???  Bad primer???)  Find out
upfront what he warranties, if it starts peeling in three years, he's getting 
it
back.  

- -- 
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://drive.to/Oldsmagnet    See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 22:16:49 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Flex Fans (Electric)

Ed Binnix wrote:
> 
> Moroso's electric water pump drive kit will work on Olds (according to
> Moroso). It uses the existing pump driven by an electric motor and belt.


Ed,

The Mr. Gasket electric water pump drive that we use on our
race car is for the most part the same as the Moroso unit.
These kits are not intended for a continual use, street
type application.  The electrical motor used in these kits
are heater blower motors.  With the resistance of trying
to push a fluid being greater than the air these motors are
designed for, they tend to overheat if used for more than 
20 - 30 min.  (remember: heat bad for electrical parts).
One of the benefits of these pump drives for a race
car is their ability to provide rapid between rounds cool 
down by circulating coolant through the engine and radiator.
With this system, a thermostat is not used.  Which may also
cause overheating in a street application.  For a drag race
car, I highly recommend an electric water pump drive.  Even
in the later hot lap rounds, these electric drives allow 
you to regulate the engine temperature, thereby producing
more consistent ET's.       


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Web Site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 23:22:37 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: [Fwd: What's a Perfect Paint Job??]

Resending, since some dummy had his email in wrong....  (That's me, by the way)
> 
> What's a Perfect Paint Job??
> 
> A myth.
> 
> -----------------
> 
> Seems there's always ~someone~ gonna find fault with some aspect of it.  As 
for
> what can be remedied, there are body-folks out there who are absolute 
magicians,
> and can buff/clear out ~anything~ it seems.  Then there are those who can't 
get
> a mirror to shine.....
> 
> As for what to expect, I guess $$$ would be a considerring factor.  If you're
> paying for perfection, expect it by all means.  A $1K paint job won't win 
many
> (any?) shows, but will be a drastic improvement.  A 10K paint job better not
> have any runs, dust, orange peel, or any other blemishes to speak of.
> 
> As for what judges will notice, etc, I've got no official experience there.  
If
> you'll be competing at shows, enlist the opinions of some judges, and make 
sure
> your body guy ~knows~ you'll be showing it, and his (her?) name will be on
> it...  and that you expect nothing less than perfection.  If you're just 
looking
> at being a nice job, go with your gut.  If ~any~ aspect of the job seems odd 
to
> you, chances are, it is.  Tell him you want to have time to inspect it in
> various lights, indoors and out, since different lighting conditions will 
show
> runs and color matching a little better.  Also keep inspecting it for months,
> some chemical reactions may take a while to happen, peeling, flaking, etc.
> (Anyone remember the GM trucks of the early 80s???  Bad primer???)  Find out
> upfront what he warranties, if it starts peeling in three years, he's 
getting it
> back.
> 
> --
> Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
> mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
> http://drive.to/Oldsmagnet    See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
> http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
>      "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
> http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
> http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

- -- 
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://drive.to/Oldsmagnet    See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 22:31:14 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: I need a cragar mag.

Gene Gilpin wrote:
> 
> <snip> I have a rare old set of Cragar S/X mags.
> 14"x6". They are made of magnesium. 
> <snip>One looks as though it took a pothole real
> hard. It's slightly bent on the outer rim edge. 
> 
> Omega Man
> '74 Omega S 455/auto
> "74 Omega 455/4spd (someyear)


Gene,

Check with Rim & Wheel Works.  They can straighten 
aluminum and magnesium wheels. 617-964-0226. (Mass.)
Perhaps they can help.



Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Web site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 02:25:27 EDT
From: Jetaway4sp@aol.com
Subject: Re: Low cost of steel

<< Thats because the Japs, Brazilians, Russians and Chinese have dumped 52 
 million tons of junk steel into this country.  America only consumes 
 110million tons a year.  The good news is that steel is out of the system 
now 
 and the big three are buying only high quality steels from US Steel, 
 Bethleham, National, Werlington, AK and one other intergrated steel mill.
  regards Mark Prince
 National Steel- Great Lakes Steel Division 
 job: Millwright >>

Mark,

Can we take this as a stock tip? That we should invest in US steel companies?
Seriously, I enjoy an insiders view. Where else but this list do we have our 
own international information exchange?

Randy in Oklahoma
57 88 J2

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 07:44:46 GMT
From: Chris Rivier <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Need advice

hi,

If it is double stick tape, try using Goo Be Gone.  It is great stuff for 
only a couple of bucks.  Don't leave it on the paint too long.

Good luck,


Chris Rivier
Austin,TX
'66 Delta 88   The BEAST under CONSTRUCTION.
'88 Festiva   ZIPPY 166K Lil' Parts Hauler.
WrEck PiX @ http://www2.bladeti.com/cars


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 03:02:14 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: What's a Perfect Paint Job??

Well I don't believe any car paint job is perfect. Even with top $$ paint
jobs there will always be some type of imperfection if you look hard and
long enough. If the car will be driven on the street then even on an
awesome paint job there will be touch ups after it is driven for awhile. If
you pain them $20,000 then I would want it perfect to a human stand point.
No orange peel or overspray. No waves or dings in the body. A piece of dirt
that got trapped in the clear and then wet sanded out that left a small
crater is passable. A straight body with paint that looks and shines like a
new car is what the bottom line should be. 
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Scott Parker <carott88@mindspring.com>
> To: olds <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: What's a Perfect Paint Job??
> Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 7:51 PM
> 
> My restoration is almost done and I had a question about the paint job. 
I
> know we have some body men and some show winners on the list.  What
should I
> expect for a perfect paint job? I've made it clear that that's what I
> expect, but what's realistic?  Definitions of perfection certainly vary. 
I
> noticed an imperfection in the striping which they said they could fix
and
> some dust nubs which they assure me can be buffed out.  To what extent
can
> repairs be made once a car is clear coated?  What kind of imperfections
are
> point subtractors at a judged show?  After 4 months in the shop and $20K
for
> a frame-off what should I see?   TIA for the input...
> Scott Parker
> 71 442 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 03:07:41 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos

I never heard of anyone putting duralube in with gas, so it could hurt or
help it, hard to say. I did hear of them putting it in with the coolant and
the car ran cooler with it. The thing that makes it work is that it bonds
to metal parts leaving a layer of protection. Sort of like wax I suppose. A
car with no wax that is left in the elements will get the clear coat
attacked. A coat of wax protects the clear and most elements will attack
the wax and the clear will be OK. Contact Duralub or go to the web site and
see what they say about putting it in gas. They will probably tell you to
use the fuel treatment they make....
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos
> Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 10:45 PM
> 
> by the way pete what do you think about putting some duralube in the gas?
my
> recent budget rebuilt 455 project does not have hardened seats and with
no
> lead fuel maybe a bit of dura in the tank may save the valves until I can
do
> the insert seats opinions?comments? curiosities?
> 
> there may be a use for this stuff yet!!!!!!!!...KK

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 03:37:19 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Olds & Oil Pressure!!

Does anyone have the FACTORY specs on what oil pressure should be in an
Olds 455 while at hot idle and hot drive? On my buddies 86 Buick Grand
National he installed an oil pressure gauge. It read 5 pounds at a hot idle
and then would climb back to 10 pounds while waiting at a light. At a hot
drive it would be at 40 pounds. The car runs strong and does not burn oil.
I know that Olds 455 motors usually have a hard time making oil pressure as
opposed to Chevy motors. I was curious what the factory would consider OK
oil pressure for the Olds 455.


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 03:41:38 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Olds 455 MAX RPM

I was at the 1/4 miles track a couple of days ago and a guy driving a 70
Olds came up to me. he stated it was a 455 that was stroked using aluminum
rods (forgot name) and is now close to 480+ cubes. He stated that he shifts
at 7500 RPM. I was shocked. Even Mondello in his VO Twister shifts, I
believe, at 6800RPM and that motor is stroked also. I thought this guy was
insane to be taking an Olds motor to 7500RPM. Even with aluminum rods it is
dangerous. Is it possible to take an Olds 455 to 7500 RPM and not have it
grenade?


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 08:01:02 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: greasing bushings (was weekend fun)

I am sorry if I have given any false information,  but the instructions I
had did not have that step.  When I first ordered the PST set I was told
that they did not even come with a metal casing!  I had very meticulously
cleaned out the old rubber bushings from there snug metal shell,  and was
ready for the new innards.  I was very surprised to see the complete
bushings when the order came in.  This was all done over 2 years ago.  The
thought of more pressing and pushing and pulling on already assembled
bushings would have pushed me over the narrow edge I live on.  The sqeaking
I have heard of before.  The name ploygraphite is that they are supposed to
be self lubricating,  but not always sqeek free.  I have found that a good
dose of silicone spray helps silence the sqeeek.  OK after all of that
ramble the point is I am very sorry if I have given poor advise to anyone.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: John Carri <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 2:25 PM
Subject: Re: greasing bushings (was weekend fun)


> steve harris wrote:
>
> >Do not remove the Bushing from the shell!!!!!.   The grease is for
> >the metal sleave to help insert it and for the ends of the bushings.
> _______________________________________
>
> The instructions that came with my Energy Suspension poly bushings
> specifically said that the bushings should be removed from the inner
> and outer metal shells and all surfaces of the actual poly bushing
> greased. If you think about it, squeaking occurs because of motion
> between the poly and the metal, so this makes perfect sense. (Rubber
> bushings are bonded to the metal and don't slip/squeak against it, but
> poly bushings are just pressed into the metal shells and can slip and
> squeak against the metal surfaces they contact).
>
> By the way, I've been riding on poly lower control arm bushings for
> about a month, and my car squeaks *less* than it did before I replaced
> the bushings. I still have to replace the upper arm bushings (I'm
> hoping to convert to taller spindles with 12" brakes, so I'm waiting
> on the upper arms until I have all the parts for the conversion
> together) and I believe most of the squeaks from my car are coming
> from those worn out rubber upper arm bushings.
>
> -John Carri
> '72 Supreme
> '73 RoadRunner
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 07:57:16 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Goo Be Gone

Chris River wrote:

<"hi,

If it is double stick tape, try using Goo Be Gone.  It is great stuff for
only a couple of bucks.  Don't leave it on the paint too long.">

Where can this "Goo Be Gone" be Gotten?

I still after a year have the goo from masking tape that the body guys had
on my vinyl top. Nothing takes this off without also spot removing the vinyl
color. Please don't make a thread out of this. I have tried every suggestion
known to man and this list last fall. It's still there and now it's a test
for "Goo Be Gone".  Gary....

Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse

ICQ# 5209322
Email: gjcouse@francomm.com
Web: http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

- -------------------------------------------------------------------
Like FREE Money? Just go to
http://alladvantage.com/go.asp?refid=AQE115
Members are paid for their own Web browsing
($.50 per Hour) and for referrals. Please tell all
of your friends about this program as possible.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
                               -------
                             / Q  Q \
                -----0000---\/---0000-----

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 08:15:58 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Raising engine

You must become as one with the header.  Then all will become clear:)
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Bloomer <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 7:37 PM
Subject: Re: Raising engine


> >Nope.....I mean for good. I'm not worried about
> >installation because I will be putting the engine in
> >and getting the headers set up all at the same time.
> >But, as the engine use to sit, I was not able to get
> >my hand between the frame and the stock exhaust
> >manifold. The headers are quite a bit wider which
> >leads me to believe that I am going to have to raise
> >the engine somehow. Either that or cut the headers
> >apart and wrap em around the frame!
>
>
> Don't get so bent out of shape.  You'll be amazed how
> much room there is once those manifolds are out of the
> way.  As long as the motor mounts aren't bent it'll fit fine.
> I've put headers on more cars than I can count and my
> Olds was about the easiest.  If it's a bit tight, pull the
> header out and put a gradual dimple in the tube with a
> ball peen hammer.  It also helps if you meditate first!
>
> Mike Bloomer
> mbloomer@mindspring.com
> ICQ# 19113713
> http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 08:13:45 -0400
From: "laurencesimpson" <laurencesimpson@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Indy H/O meet (was: INDY)

Hi Mike:

    I'll be there.

    Laurence Simpson, D.D.S.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Rothe <hurstolds@duesouth.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 9:49 PM
Subject: Re: Indy H/O meet (was: INDY)


> Speaking of Indy, is there anyone on the list going to be at Indy in July
for
> the H/O national meet?
>
> Mike Rothe
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 08:28:12 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: i want off the list

Take yourself off the list genious! LEARN HOW!

Omega Man


At 07:02 PM 6/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
>take me off the list!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jeff Newman <newsance@netzero.net>
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 6:21 PM
>Subject: Re: posi question

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 08:27:45 EDT
From: RPTW32@aol.com
Subject: Re: norwalk

The Dick Miller all Olds show & race is Aug 15 . Most of us from Detroit 
Street Rockets go down on Sat and bracket race the Sat. track program and 
then follow up Sunday for Dick's event. Mark your calendar  worth taking off 
work for if you have to.

Rgds,
Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 09:10:56 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: gas tank for 75 delta

Does anyone know who sells a gas tank (new) for my car? Apparently, someone 
replaced the original with one that has a neck that's too short. Ant ideas?
Tia
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 04:49:37 -0400
From: "Randy Geisel" <Rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Rallye 350 for sale

 
> Stupid question: What year is this car? 

Rallye 350's were only made in 1970. 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 06:51:51 PDT
From: Ioannis Kouramanis <kourama@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 72 Big Car convertible

<SNIP>

>Dunno what those rods are for... but gee whiz, look at the Rocket Science
>list of Literature:
>
>$$  Yr  Cond    Description
>40  72  VG      Chassis Service Manual. 1.7" thick. *
>40  72  Good    Fisher Body Service Manual. 1.0" thick.  *
>==================
>And, still here, I think.
>
>--
>Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
>Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
>--
>517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
>Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

*SMACK* (palm hitting forehead) Of course!


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 08:54:07 -0500 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas.Martin@motorola.com>
Subject: Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy an Engine Plant?

Sure!  But you have to make the CAFE, Corp Average Fuel Economy of 30 mpg!!
Ok, pay the penalty and get less.  Would a 455 Omega be the fastest Olds
ever built if it was available??

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!


>Lets make some more '74 Omegas! We can roll them right off the line with
>dual quad 455s and 4 speeds. Whooo hoooooo! I'm there fellas. 
>
>dreaming out loud
>Omega Man

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 08:57:56 -0500 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas.Martin@motorola.com>
Subject: Water Injection

Has anyone had any experience with creating your own water injection?

Does Edelbrock still sell the Varijection?  

It worked well on my Turbo Trans AM, but the vacuum fitting to it broke too
easily (plastic).

I would like to revisit this topic on my 350 CCC which needs more timing,
but I don't want to run the 93 octane for it....(yeah yeah yeah, cake and
eat it too....)

Anyone?  Anyone?  

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 10:01:58 -0400
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Flex Fans (Electric)

No doubt. I was assuming the inquiry was for racing purposes. IMHO, electric
water pumps of any kind are race only pieces. If they were reliable and
freed up horsepower as well, don't you think the factory would have tried
them on production automobiles? Good observation Greg.
Ed

- -----Original Message-----

>
>Ed Binnix wrote:
>>
>> Moroso's electric water pump drive kit will work on Olds (according to
>> Moroso). It uses the existing pump driven by an electric motor and belt.
>
>
>Ed,
>
>The Mr. Gasket electric water pump drive that we use on our
>race car is for the most part the same as the Moroso unit.
>These kits are not intended for a continual use, street
>type application.  The electrical motor used in these kits
>are heater blower motors.  With the resistance of trying
>to push a fluid being greater than the air these motors are
>designed for, they tend to overheat if used for more than
>20 - 30 min.  (remember: heat bad for electrical parts).
>One of the benefits of these pump drives for a race
>car is their ability to provide rapid between rounds cool
>down by circulating coolant through the engine and radiator.
>With this system, a thermostat is not used.  Which may also
>cause overheating in a street application.  For a drag race
>car, I highly recommend an electric water pump drive.  Even
>in the later hot lap rounds, these electric drives allow
>you to regulate the engine temperature, thereby producing
>more consistent ET's.
>
>
>Greg Rollin
>Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
>Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249
>
>Web Site:
>http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
>
>E-mail: supercars@transport.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 10:03:31 -0400
From: "James E. Brady III" <James.E.Brady.1@gsfc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: Good Transmission Shops in D.C.--more info

Omega Man,
I just purchased 'How to work with and modify the Turbo Hydra-matic 400
Transmission' and so far it seems very informative.  I have never worked on
one before but plan on it when mine bites the dust.  Do you think I should
get the video too?  A rebuild kit and shift kit for $80?  Summit has a
rebuilt kit for about $130 but thats not counting the shift kit.  How
difficult was it overall?

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html

>
> Sounds to me like your forward clutch packs are on their last leg.
Telltail
> signs are slipping in high gear and dark, burnt smelling fluid. It'll only
> get worse. If you took it apart you'll probably find the metal plates
> between the clutch discs to be a pretty shade of heat tempered blue, not
to
> mention clutch discs with no clutch left. Doesn't sound like a converter
> problem. TH350s and 400s aren't all that difficult to rebuild. You'll only
> need a light duty press to compact the springs in the clutch packs to
> remove the snap ring. I afro-engineered one out of a bench mounted drill
> press(without the drill) and 2 bolts. Of course that was along time ago
and
> my tool selection has grown since then. Just get a good manual or video
> (less than $20 each. JC whitney sells them) and a rebuild kit and set
aside
> a weekend. I got a full rebuild kit and shift kit for a TH400 for less
than
> $80. I've found the videos to be invaluable referance materials for first
> timmers. If you ask me, $100 and a learning experience sounds better than
> paying someone else $500-$700 to do it for you.
>
> Omega Man
> '74 Omega S 455/auto
> '74 Omega 455/4spd (someday)
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 10:20:44 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy an Engine Plant?

 Thomas Martin wrote:
>snip>>
  Would a 455 Omega be the fastest Olds
>ever built if it was available??
>


I would have to say..............ABSO-FREAKIN-LUTELY!!!

Omega Man

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 10:28:10 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Flex Fans (Electric)

Production electric water pumps are on the LT1 corvette engines for the
Impala SS.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Edward Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 1999 10:01 AM
Subject: Re: Flex Fans (Electric)


> No doubt. I was assuming the inquiry was for racing purposes. IMHO,
electric
> water pumps of any kind are race only pieces. If they were reliable and
> freed up horsepower as well, don't you think the factory would have tried
> them on production automobiles? Good observation Greg.
> Ed
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> >
> >Ed Binnix wrote:
> >>
> >> Moroso's electric water pump drive kit will work on Olds (according to
> >> Moroso). It uses the existing pump driven by an electric motor and
belt.
> >
> >
> >Ed,
> >
> >The Mr. Gasket electric water pump drive that we use on our
> >race car is for the most part the same as the Moroso unit.
> >These kits are not intended for a continual use, street
> >type application.  The electrical motor used in these kits
> >are heater blower motors.  With the resistance of trying
> >to push a fluid being greater than the air these motors are
> >designed for, they tend to overheat if used for more than
> >20 - 30 min.  (remember: heat bad for electrical parts).
> >One of the benefits of these pump drives for a race
> >car is their ability to provide rapid between rounds cool
> >down by circulating coolant through the engine and radiator.
> >With this system, a thermostat is not used.  Which may also
> >cause overheating in a street application.  For a drag race
> >car, I highly recommend an electric water pump drive.  Even
> >in the later hot lap rounds, these electric drives allow
> >you to regulate the engine temperature, thereby producing
> >more consistent ET's.
> >
> >
> >Greg Rollin
> >Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
> >Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249
> >
> >Web Site:
> >http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
> >
> >E-mail: supercars@transport.com
> >
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 10:36:42 -0400
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Water Injection (long reply)

I knew a guy who did it on all of his cars. He was a walking testimonial for
water injection. Disclaimer: I am neither advocating or disparaging this
setup, merely passing it along (what a coward am I).

He would take a container, a jar of some sort (needs a lid to fill it). Then
he would punch two holes in the top and insert two tubes, a long one to go
to the bottom of the jar and a very short one. He would solder or glue them
into place depending on the materials. The jar would be attached to the
firewall with a homemade bracket and hose clamp. Next he would take a
football inflation needle and crimp the end to seal it off. Then take the
needle and file the side of it until you break through. It made a long
skinny slot for half the length of the needle. With me so far?

Next he pushed the needle all the way through the vacuum hose for his power
booster. The crimped end stuck out about 1/8 inch. Then he ran a vacuum hose
from the threaded part of the needle to the SHORT tube in the jar.

What happened was that the short tube was not submerged in water because it
didn't reach that far. The vacuum from the engine sucked air from that jar.
The air that came in to replace it had to come through the long tube which
WAS submerged in the water. This created a bubbling in the bottle. The air
going into the engine was laden with moisture. It's important to hook up to
the correct tube or you will suck a steady stream of water into the engine.
Can you say "hydrolock?"

It worked. His spark plugs always looked new. His oil stayed much cleaner,
and he never had any problem with detonation. He claimed that he got better
economy and power, but I'm somewhat skeptical about that. Unless you
consider that an internally clean engine "might" make slightly more power
and get better fuel economy.

The principle of the system isn't too bad. I would never be seen with a
mason jar hanging on my firewall (even though this is Kentucky). I would
never be seen with a football needle sticking through my power booster hose.
I would add another vacuum fitting at the manifold and use some high tech
looking container if I were to try this set up.

I maintained his car and can tell you that the maintenance claims appeared
to be true.

- -----Original Message-----

>Has anyone had any experience with creating your own water injection?
>
>Does Edelbrock still sell the Varijection?
>
>It worked well on my Turbo Trans AM, but the vacuum fitting to it broke too
>easily (plastic).
>
>I would like to revisit this topic on my 350 CCC which needs more timing,
>but I don't want to run the 93 octane for it....(yeah yeah yeah, cake and
>eat it too....)
>
>Anyone?  Anyone?
>
>Thomas Martin
>80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
>85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
>91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 10:40:41 -0400
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Flex Fans (Electric)

New one on me. Of course it's a Chevy so reliability was never considered.
Failure is accepted as a standard feature. No flames, all in fun. :-)

- -----Original Message-----

>
>Production electric water pumps are on the LT1 corvette engines for the
>Impala SS.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 10:59:11 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Say what, Y-motor?

At 08:09 PM 6/2/99 -0400, you wrote:
>I have a 84 307 Y code engine with cam headers RPM intake and a 3.73 w/ posi
>I am planning on adding a 350 in the spring of 2000 looking to get about
>375 - 400 hp  Right now it runs faster than a H/O 442 or SS (stock)
>
>Kevin Grant
>80 Cutlass Supreme
>============\
>Really, 1.5 HP/CID from a 307?
>Must be Canadian HP or something...
>
>;-)
>
>--
>Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
>Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu


Actually 1.5hp/cid from a 307 would be 460.5hp. The way Kevin Grants post
reads to me is that he is currently stuck with a 307 but, in the future,
would like to install a 350 making 375-400hp which is fully conceivable.
I'll tell you another thing, it IS possible for a 307 to make 400-500hp.
Just install a 400 hp Nitrous Oxide system and you'll be pumping out a
respectible 500hp, oh for 4 or 5 seconds anyway :)

Omega Man
'74 Omega S 455/auto
'74 Omega 455/4spd (someyear)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 09:59:38 -0500
From: Eckie Prater <eckie@swbell.net>
Subject: Re: gas tank for 75 delta

JonKrisInc@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know who sells a gas tank (new) for my car? Apparently, someone
> replaced the original with one that has a neck that's too short. Ant ideas?
> Tia
> Bruce
> 75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course)
Hi,
I have a 75 Delta 88 conv (duals not yet).
Does anyone have a set of headers they would recommend for the 455?
Thanks.
Eckie Prater

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 10:07:37 -0500
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
Subject: Re: Olds 455 MAX RPM

Oh yes no problem, you just have to use oil restrictors and high capacity
oil pan etc.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 1999 3:41 AM
Subject: Olds 455 MAX RPM


> I was at the 1/4 miles track a couple of days ago and a guy driving a 70
> Olds came up to me. he stated it was a 455 that was stroked using aluminum
> rods (forgot name) and is now close to 480+ cubes. He stated that he
shifts
> at 7500 RPM. I was shocked. Even Mondello in his VO Twister shifts, I
> believe, at 6800RPM and that motor is stroked also. I thought this guy was
> insane to be taking an Olds motor to 7500RPM. Even with aluminum rods it
is
> dangerous. Is it possible to take an Olds 455 to 7500 RPM and not have it
> grenade?
>
>
> Pettrix@prodigy.net
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 11:22:02 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Water Injection

Don't think their water injection is available any more.  Saw something to that
effect in the Edlebrock tech questions on the web.
Dude

Martin Thomas-WLTM07 wrote:

> Has anyone had any experience with creating your own water injection?
>
> Does Edelbrock still sell the Varijection?
>
> It worked well on my Turbo Trans AM, but the vacuum fitting to it broke too
> easily (plastic).
>
> I would like to revisit this topic on my 350 CCC which needs more timing,
> but I don't want to run the 93 octane for it....(yeah yeah yeah, cake and
> eat it too....)
>
> Anyone?  Anyone?
>
> Thomas Martin
> 80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
> 85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
> 91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 11:13:33 EDT
From: Dshack4@aol.com
Subject: Tranny coolers...go - or no-go

List:

Just figured that my TH400 would like a little chilled tranny juice to drink. 
 I've got about 2 1/2 inches between my fan and radiator.  The tranny cooler 
I saw was about 1 3/4 inches thick, leaving only about 3/4 space.  Is that 
too little tolerance?  Anyone out there tried a cooler and got good/bad 
results?

Shack
71 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 11:27:13 -0400
From: Doug Ahern <doug@mail.RATH.PeachNet.EDU>
Subject: Re: 1965 400 4 bbl intake

On Wed, Jun 02, 1999 at 03:00:20PM -0500, David Rench wrote:
> My father and I were rummaging through his parts collection the other day 
looking for a BB cast iron Qjet intake for my 425 and ran across what I 
believe to be a 1965 425 4 barrel intake (the "square bore" variety).  The 
interesting thing is that he had 2, one red and one bronze.  They shared the 
same casting #.  I believe the bronze one was probably the original intake 
from his 65 4-4-2.  Do these motors share the same intake?  Is there any value 
to intake beyond that of any other cast iron 4bbl BB intake.  Beyond the 4GC 
carb, what else will bolt to this intake?  Is it the same pattern as a square 
bore holley or carter?
> 

a Carter AFB/AVS will bolt directly to it. a Holley square bore will as
well.  most aftermarket AFBs/Holleys have 2 sets of mounting bolt holes,
if you use one of these it is work.  Of you use a OEM Carter or Holley
from say, a Ford or Mopar and it only has one set of mounting bolt holes,
those carbs won't work without a spacer...

I would say this manifold is valuable to anyone wanting to bolt a squarebore
carb to a big block without buying an aftermarket alumimum unit.  
Personally, I prefer Carter AFBs over q-jets, and especially over 4GCs.

Doug Ahern

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 11:44:02 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Tranny coolers...go - or no-go

Got a tranny cooler on my camaro. You should mount it on the grill side of
the radiator not the engine side. I had to drill 1 hole through the rad
support to route 1 hose. Was able to use an existing hole for the other
hose. Don't have a temp gauge or anything on it but the cooler can't be
hurtin' anything. No noticeable performance gains though either. 

OMega Man


At 11:13 AM 6/3/99 EDT, you wrote:
>List:
>
>Just figured that my TH400 would like a little chilled tranny juice to
drink. 
> I've got about 2 1/2 inches between my fan and radiator.  The tranny cooler 
>I saw was about 1 3/4 inches thick, leaving only about 3/4 space.  Is that 
>too little tolerance?  Anyone out there tried a cooler and got good/bad 
>results?
>
>Shack
>71 442 W-30
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 12:18:53 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Good Transmission Shops in D.C.--more info

When I did my TH400 (Jeep Wagoneer) back in '91 it was my first attempt at
such a thing and I got the video and a book. (Didn't even use the book) The
video was worth its weight in gold. After I got my parts I had it together
in about a day. I got a generic cheap rebuild kit from JC Whitney, hence
the "About" $80 price. Might have been a little more but it was definitly
less than $100. I also got the B&M shift improver kit from a local parts
store for like $23 or so. As far as difficult, it wasn't. Just got to be
careful and double check all your double checks. Take your time and you
should have great results. The tranny I built back in '91 is still running
strong and shifting hard today. Actually it shifts too hard. I tore up 3
quadratrac transfer cases with it so far.

Omega Man





At 10:03 AM 6/3/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Omega Man,
>I just purchased 'How to work with and modify the Turbo Hydra-matic 400
>Transmission' and so far it seems very informative.  I have never worked on
>one before but plan on it when mine bites the dust.  Do you think I should
>get the video too?  A rebuild kit and shift kit for $80?  Summit has a
>rebuilt kit for about $130 but thats not counting the shift kit.  How
>difficult was it overall?
>
>Jim Brady
>1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible
>http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 12:26:26 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: gas tank for 75 delta

In a message dated 99-06-03 09:12:53 EDT, you write:

<< Does anyone know who sells a gas tank (new) for my car? Apparently, 
someone 
 replaced the original with one that has a neck that's too short. Ant ideas? 
>>

National Auto Lines carries a 1973-77 GM "intermediate" (non-SW), but filler 
neck must be bought separately.

Why not just get the filler neck?

NAL has 22 different ones.

800-428-4300

Good luck!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 12:28:54 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: Goo Be Gone

In a message dated 99-06-03 07:58:59 EDT, you write:

<< I still after a year have the goo from masking tape that the body guys had
 on my vinyl top. Nothing takes this off without also spot removing the vinyl
 color. Please don't make a thread out of this. I have tried every suggestion
 known to man and this list last fall.  >>
Why not try WD-40 .....works great on that with some scrubbing....Hot Rod 
Harry

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 09:45:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Hypothetical Cold Air Induction System

  Hmmm, would it be possible to somehow connect an aftermarket electric
AC system to the intake?  I've seen aftermarket AC systems that fit
under the dash, maybe one of these can be set up to blow cold air into
the carb?  I wonder what effect this would have on performance? 
Anybody have any ideas?

Stefan
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
70Cutlass@Beer.com 
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 12:57:19 -0400
From: "Randy Geisel" <Rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Tranny coolers...go - or no-go

Hey Shack,

I put one on my 72 Cutlass when I changed gears and went with a 300 stall
converter. Works great, but mount it in front of the radiator. Besides the
lack of room on the backside, you'd be sucking the hot air off the radiator
to "cool" it.

Randy

>  I've got about 2 1/2 inches between my fan and radiator.  The tranny
cooler
> I saw was about 1 3/4 inches thick, leaving only about 3/4 space.  Is that
> too little tolerance?  Anyone out there tried a cooler and got good/bad
> results?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 11:42:22 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Hypothetical Cold Air Induction System

Stefan, 

I think it would help performance but not in a very reasonable 
dollars/horspower ratio. You should try this though. I am sure it would 
make it to a car magazine ;). At least this would save the guys at the 
track some of those ice bags they put on their intakes before the race, 
(also no reasonable $/hp ratio) LOL...

George

- ----------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://www.geocities/MotorCity/Boulevard/8004/Cutlass.html
- ----------------------------------------------------------

On Thu, 3 Jun 1999, Stefan Gadecki wrote:

> 
>   Hmmm, would it be possible to somehow connect an aftermarket electric
> AC system to the intake?  I've seen aftermarket AC systems that fit
> under the dash, maybe one of these can be set up to blow cold air into
> the carb?  I wonder what effect this would have on performance? 
> Anybody have any ideas?
> 
> Stefan
> 1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
> 70Cutlass@Beer.com 
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 13:02:02 EDT
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: test

this is only a test to see if i am back on the list again
										
		Rich

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 13:14:42 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Tranny coolers...go - or no-go

In a message dated 6/3/99 8:14:36 AM Pacific Daylight Time, Dshack4@aol.com 
writes:

<< List:
 
 Just figured that my TH400 would like a little chilled tranny juice to 
drink. 
  I've got about 2 1/2 inches between my fan and radiator.  The tranny cooler 
 I saw was about 1 3/4 inches thick, leaving only about 3/4 space.  Is that 
 too little tolerance?  Anyone out there tried a cooler and got good/bad 
 results?
 
 Shack
 71 442 W-30 >>

	The Th400 in my car (86 Cutlass) is being fed cold(er) fluid from a 
tranny cooler I picked up from a truck a guy was parting out. (hey it was 
free) Anyway, since I am not a fan of making modifications to a car that 
aren't fixable easily (cutting holes, etc) I used (think its called this) 
plumbers strapping. The stuff comes in a roll, is metal, and has little holes 
every half inch or so. Used that to connect the cooler to already existing 
holes in the core support. 
	I painted it black (the tape I had was silver) and anywhere the 
cooler touched metal (the car has thin metal reinforcing rods across the 
radiator opening) I wrapped with a piece of hose. I also routed the cooler 
lines next to the radiator. Makes the rubber lines longer, but again, didn't 
have to cut anything, and still quite clean, since I also run it through the 
radiator first. 
	I did notice that after the car warms up, when I put it in gear from 
neutral, it goes in gear quicker..it used to take a second (it's newly 
rebuilt) once it got hot..now it's much quicker. Tranny shop told me you can 
basically never get the fluid too 
cold.     					
										
	Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 11:25:41 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Hypothetical Cold Air Induction System

Stefan Gadecki wrote:
> 
>   Hmmm, would it be possible to somehow connect an aftermarket electric
> AC system to the intake?  I've seen aftermarket AC systems that fit
> under the dash, maybe one of these can be set up to blow cold air into
> the carb?  I wonder what effect this would have on performance?
> Anybody have any ideas?

My bet would be that the energy used to run the cooler would more than the gain
from the cooler air.  Mostly because of the large amount of air going into the
engine.  That's just a guess though.  Rather than cool the air to increase the
density I would compress it with a supercharger or blower.

Now the dumb question, has anyone ever tried running a small amount of pure O2
into the carb?  I assume that a modified NOS system would work, preferably a
proportional system to match the air flow.  It may not win DOT approval but
would it have more poop/lb. than NOS?  What's the downside other than possible
explosions :)
- -- 

Cliff "Who could snatch Grandpa's air bottle to try" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 11:41:33 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Tranny coolers...go - or no-go

DYeager535@aol.com wrote:
> 
> <snip>
>         The Th400 in my car (86 Cutlass) is being fed cold(er) fluid from a
> tranny cooler I picked up from a truck a guy was parting out. (hey it was
> free) 

Free is good :)

> Anyway, since I am not a fan of making modifications to a car that
> aren't fixable easily (cutting holes, etc) I used (think its called this)
> plumbers strapping. The stuff comes in a roll, is metal, and has little holes
> every half inch or so. Used that to connect the cooler to already existing
> holes in the core support.

There are plastic ties with big fat ends that you push through the rad and the
cooler for attaching them.  You just put some foamy tape on the rad, hold the
cooler against the foamys while you push the tie-wrap thingy through, put the
end on the tie-wrap, pull it tight, and cut the excess off.  Very clean but
possibly expensive.

>         I painted it black (the tape I had was silver) and anywhere the
> cooler touched metal (the car has thin metal reinforcing rods across the
> radiator opening) I wrapped with a piece of hose. I also routed the cooler
> lines next to the radiator. Makes the rubber lines longer, but again, didn't
> have to cut anything, and still quite clean, since I also run it through the
> radiator first.
>         I did notice that after the car warms up, when I put it in gear from
> neutral, it goes in gear quicker..it used to take a second (it's newly
> rebuilt) once it got hot..now it's much quicker. Tranny shop told me you can
> basically never get the fluid too cold.

Interesting, my tranny guy said the opposite, he claims that the water in the
rad initially warms up the tranny fluid and that the fluid should not be too
cold.  When he did my tranny I told him that I had a cooler and he said that it
was OK but he preferred a larger pan and more fluid volume for non-trailer
applications.  I didn't put a larger pan on because of clearance concerns.  I
should also note that he specialized in cop cars, fire trucks, and city
vehicles so he may have had a different perspective than a performance shop.

This also maybe related to the -40 degree the winters up here :0
- -- 

Cliff "What's good for the goose makes the gander sore" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1995
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