Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1981


oldsmobile-digest       Thursday, May 27 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1981



Re: OFF TOPIC POSTS (was Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION 
BARSUSPENSI...
RE: Master cylinder question
Re: Englishtown = Old Bridge something or other
Re: SHACK
Re: off topic posts
Re: Sorry to interrupt here.... was: New Website, need all your 
help		with this one!
727 Converter Weighting
Re: Sorry to interrupt here.... was: New Website, need all 
yourhelp		 with this one!
Welding Cab corners
Re: brake booster color?/vs plateing?
Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR SUSPENSION (SORRY ABOUT NON OLDS)
Re: off topic posts
Re: Hooker versus Hedman headers, how much better?
Re: 70 Cutlass dashboard removal
Re: off topic posts
Wheel adapters
Re: Welding Cab corners
Re: brake booster color?/vs plateing?
Re: 79 Cutlass A/C
Re: OFF TOPIC POSTS (was Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR 
SUSPENSION....)
Re: 1950 Olds for sale
Re: '68 Cutlass grille needed
Re: 1950 Olds for sale
Re: Master cylinder question
Re: off topic posts
Re: OFF TOPIC POSTS (was Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR  
SUSPENSION....)
Re: turn signal falling off 68 442
Re: test
Off Topics
New '67 Cutlass Convert. owner
Re: New '67 Cutlass Convert. owner
Re: PCV Tech
NON OLDS, need a ford price
interesting query
Re: PCV Tech
f/s shifter cables source?
Re: OFF TOPIC POSTS (was Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR 
SUSPENSION....)
Re: W-31 project available
More on '69 W31
oldsifieds (fwd)
Re: Buick V6--> V8 motor mounts???
Re: 1950 Olds for sale
Re: OFF TOPIC POSTS (was Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION 
BARSUSPENSION....)
Re: New '67 Cutlass Convert. owner
Re: f/s shifter cables source?
Break Dust Problem.
Re: Buick V6--> V8 motor mounts???
Re: OFF TOPIC POSTS (was Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION  
BARSUSPENSION....)
Re: f/s shifter cables source?
Non Olds discussion
Re: OFF TOPIC POSTS (was Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION  
BARSUSPENSION....)
1965 442 Experts

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 17:31:47 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: OFF TOPIC POSTS (was Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION 
BARSUSPENSI...

In a message dated 5/26/99 2:18:06 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
acg_o@hotmail.com writes:

<< Two changes might cut the noise level in half:
 
 1) Set the Reply-To: address to the poster, not the list. That way anyone 
 who wants to dash off a short reply to the author will get the author's 
 address via their Reply button, and won't end up broadcasting their comment 
 to all umpty-hundred people on the list. I suspect making this change alone 
 will cause the noise level to plummet. >>

       I have to disagree here..I've been on another list that did this, and 
what it resulted in, at least from my side, due to my carelessness (and being 
used to this lists reply settings) was lots of letters that should have gone 
to the whole list, as opposed to that one person. I know it's relatively easy 
to re-send something, but I would rather see some of what others may term 
mundane. 
      One thing I have to agree on is using common sense, as with ANYTHING in 
life. If it's really specific, and your sure no one else cares about it, take 
it private. And I hate it when e-mails come through but theres absolutely no 
message..but thats not real common as I have seen anyway. 
      Basically, keep it specific in the subject line, and we can all delete 
or read it as we please...it's real easy to hit the delete key if you don't 
want to read it. My thoughts on that : )    Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 17:37:23 -0400
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Master cylinder question

What?  What are you talking about?  I don't want to get buffed with a wire
wheel!  And I'm not looking shabby.  Oh, wait a minute.  Master cylinder, I
thought you said Master Costanzo.  Sorry about that.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Lou Biggs
> Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 1999 11:14 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Master cylinder question
>
>
> Del;
> Marks email address is mahahn@fuse.com.
> I think it is 14.95. You just rub this stuff on, better then removing the
> whole cyn, buffing it with a wire wheel, replacing and bleeding the whole
> system. If it starts looking shabby you can do it again Mark says. I am
> definitely getting some. I procrastinate to much I guess.
> Lou
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 17:41:55 -0400
From: "laurencesimpson" <laurencesimpson@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Englishtown = Old Bridge something or other

Dear Costanzo:

    It's official name is Old Bridge Township Raceway Park, but everybody
here (New York City) calls it Englishtown since it's just north of the town
of Englishtown, NJ

    laurencesimpson@msn.com

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Master Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
To: Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 1999 10:35 PM
Subject: Englishtown = Old Bridge something or other


> What's the actual name of Englishtown.  Old Bridge rAceway or something?
> Thanks.
>
>
> Ray Costanzo
> 87 409 Cutlass
> 84 3.8 Calais
> John Deere LX176 with no hood, a throttle linkage bracket held in place
with
> a ziptie, a mower deck bar with deep sockets as washers, and a beat
> alternator.  John Deere can burn in hell.  The wheelhorse lasted 18 years
> and the damn thing would do wheelies if you side-stepped the clutch in
third
> gear.  What a workhorse that wheelhorse was.
> Bucks County, PA
> mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com
> http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 16:45:58 -0500 (EST)
From: hurst455@webtv.net (Corey Putnam)
Subject: Re: SHACK

Drew Senko wrote;
<snip>
David, 
The members of this list spent much time compiling the information that
is in the FAQ, and it is already publicly available. In addition, Bryce
accepts articles, pictures, and info for inclusion on www.442.com. I
don't mean to rain on your parade, but 442.com has been around and is
established. If I have info to relate, then it's going to 442.com and/or
the FAQ. Centralized information is the most useful tool that we have as
enthusiasts and restorers, and thus far, the focal point has been
442.com.
<snip>
  David, I for one dissagree with this post. As long as your info is
correct and kept up to date it really can cause no harm at all. You
might be able to come up with topics that haven`t been covered in detail
or something new alltogether. Using only one(or two) sorces for all
information can get you into trouble, no matter how well put together
these sorces are.
   The more places people can find info on Oldsmobiles, the better. Not
everyone that`s just  getting started in the hobby or on the web knows
about the FAQ or 442.com, so the easier the informatin is to find, the
better.(IMHO)
   
Just seems to be one of those days, thought I`d join in for once. Thank
You, Goodnight Everybody, Drive Safely.  

Corey Putnam
75 H/O W-30(down for awhile)
87 Regal w/Olds 455(Mama`s ride)
H/OCA #0915A
OCC #0208
OCA #031264
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 15:03 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: off topic posts

Doug Ahern wrote:

<snipped>
>this list is an oldsmobile list covering cars from 1902 to 1999, that
>should give us plenty to talk about.
- -------------

Since you claim 1902 to 1999, do you propose to shoot me when I say "I 
like the looks of the 2000 Aurora?"  In that case, let me say: "2000 
Aurora! 2000 Aurora! 2000 Intrigue! 2000 Intrigue! Nyah, Nyah! :)

- --------------
>there is no need to ask questions or relate stories concerning 
>non-oldsmobile autos!  if an off-topic post comes in it should either 
>be ignored or answered privately off-line. but that torsion bar 
>thread generated 5-6 messages!!  and along side that one is a 
>motorcycle thread....
- --------------

Doug, this mailing list exists primarily for the enjoyment of its 
listees, and that means that ocassionally people want to share 
something that excited or worried or interested them, even if it's not 
intensely technical or strictly Olds-related. As in many other 
situations, "community standards" prevail, and this community is 
friendly and often informal. If you wish to belong to a Nazi-like 
mailing list that sticks strictly to many rules and has no fun, feel 
free to find one for yourself! You are not going to be able to force 
your views on the 600-odd people on this list, so why waste time and 
bandwidth trying? Most of us like this list the way it is now.

- ------------------------
>signal to noise ratio for this list is terrible.  off-topic posts 
>turn would be signal into noise as well as it promotes the mentality 
>"if people can talk about boats and rv's on the list, I certainly can 
>post telling everyone that I passed an Oldsmobile on the eay to work 
>today!" 
- ------------------------

When I learn an interesting piece of tech. information about Olds, I 
post about it. If I passed a new experimental Olds or a new Olds show 
car on my way to work, I would want to tell other people about that, 
too. Whats wrong with that?

This list has at least two disciplinary forces at work - first, our 
list administrator, who usually steps in when he feels things go too 
far off track, and second, the self-discipline of all our listees, who 
usually don't let things go too far out of hand. 

I think you're implying that many if not most listees are idiots who 
need your firm hand to keep them in check, and I'm afraid I couldn't 
possibly disagree with you more. The whole world of automotive 
endeavour today is full of rigid rules laid down by the EPA, the IIHS, 
and a zillion other Federal and State organizations, and I most 
emphatically DONT think that we need this in the world of 
mailing-lists as well.

Olds content, do you think the 2010 Oldsmobiles will go from a 12V to 
a higher voltage, say 18 or 24V electrical system to handle the 
increasing electrical loads that modern cars carry? (See Doug, I did 
it again, mentioned a car from outside the 1902-1999 range, now you're 
gonna have to take me out and shoot me, I guess.) 

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 340 RoadRunner 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 18:24:04 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Sorry to interrupt here.... was: New Website, need all your 
help		with this one!

Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:

> Do I need a tractor

> anywhere close to that size?  Of course not...  What's your point?
> 
> Seriously (and for gratuitous Olds content), I'm looking for a 2520 or 3020 
JD,
> preferably with a front end loader.  This will allow me to not only shovel
> manure but also will be invaluable in the construction of my dream shop for
> housing and rebuilding the Oldsmofleet.

If you need a front end loader just to shovel manure those horses must
be HUGE! :)

Actually I suspect this farm will eventually become an "Olds" car home
for homeless big blocks.  That gives the list one on each side of the
Mississippi.   The Olds Magnet in Montana, Chris Witt's in Michigan and
Joe's place in VA.  Now one in Texas and California and Florida and
Maine and the country is encircled with homes awaiting the unwanted, the
cold, the huddled masses....of Oldsmobiles and their muscle car
brothers.  Keep up the good work guys.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 15:49:34 -0700
From: BOYD DONALD R <drboyd@srpnet.com>
Subject: 727 Converter Weighting

Just want to let you know that B&M makes flexplates for the Torque 
Flite transmissions that are offset weighted for various factory 
engines. You can use any of the zillions of suitable zero-balanced 
torque convertors from the aftermarket  with one of these weighted 
flexplates, and have no balancing worries.

By the way, Mopar Performance also sells suitably offset-weighted 
torque convertors for several musclecar engine applications, as long 
as you only want the factory original stall speed.

Sorry, I don't know the answer to your 455 question, but if you ever 
build up another Mopar you know what to do!

- - -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 340 RoadRunner

Yeah, I know.  We tried the B&M flexplate (2nd day air from Summit in
Sparks) and every other dang thing we could think of.  The engine was a
numbers matching 1971 440 HP with presumably the six-pack rods, so it was
externally balanced.  The old converter was (and is probably still) shot, to
my guess, but whatever else we put in it made the car shake like a
pomeranian pooping a peach pit.  Never did get it fixed the way I wanted.
The car is gone, but pix are still up at http://www.dlbconsulting.com/gtx

Don Boyd
76 Cutlass 455
Hurst T-Tops
Factory Orange Wheels

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 16:47:16 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Sorry to interrupt here.... was: New Website, need all 
yourhelp		 with this one!

Don Sowers wrote:
> 
> If you need a front end loader just to shovel manure those horses must
> be HUGE! :)

Well you know Joe, he has to have at least 400 horses around or he's not happy
:)

Oops, non-olds, slipping into another thread, better bail,
- -- 

Cliff "No real horses were used in the making of this engine" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 18:36:14 -0700
From: Andy Lawrence <lawrencj@coral.indstate.edu>
Subject: Welding Cab corners

    I currently have a Craftsman Mig 150 amp wire welder!  This welder does 
have
a gas option, but i don't have the money for the take and such.....My question
is i have some new Cab corner to weld in my 90 Chevy Truck, can i do this with
.30 Flux core welding wire without burning thru?  I don't have experience on
welding thin metal like that, but i can weld thick metal quite well! what do 
you
think?

Andy

79 Olds

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 20:33:01 -0400
From: "Wayne Schwartz" <wschwart@cgocable.net>
Subject: Re: brake booster color?/vs plateing?

I'm interested in comments too.  Coincidently I just picked up a new booster
tonight and will probably use the Eastwoods paint on it since I don't live
near a good plating shop.  Anyone got Eastwoods 1-800 number.  I don't have
a catalogue.

Wayne Schwartz
69 442 convertible
- -----Original Message-----
From: W30442CS@aol.com <W30442CS@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, May 26, 1999 10:15 AM
Subject: brake booster color?/vs plateing?


>have been looking into painting (eastwoods) , or replateing my 70 brake
>booster and have a question for the list.  the guy at the plate shop said
>boosters were not cadium plated but were done in yellow chromate.  ???   is
>this right?  eastwoods paint set up is around 33$ and he said he could
>replate mine for 40$.  anyone have any comments on the eastwood paint set
up?
> TIA.    steven, w30442cs@aol.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 20:30:21 EDT
From: Moparrp@aol.com
Subject: Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR SUSPENSION (SORRY ABOUT 
NON OLDS)

hey guys we all have our different likes, i have my 66 cutlass, 68 camaro, 67 
ply fury and87 gmc van (no fords).if we can help, whats it hurt?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 21:46:40 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: off topic posts

OK, gang, here's my take on this:

I rely mostly on self-discipline to keep the list on-topic and not
straying too far from the subject at hand. Yeah, I agree, the Chrysler and
motorbike posts are way off topic. OTOH, they died off pretty quickly. In
a perfect world, nobody would quote all sorts of unnecessary follow-up,
all topics would be Olds-related, and everyone would agree on everything.
After having beat my head against the wall for 5 years on this I guess I
have developed a higher tolerance than I used to. 

Let's just all try to get along, and if anyone strays too far off the
center line, let them know -- by private email preferably. OK? Thanks! 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 20:53:35 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hooker versus Hedman headers, how much better?

My younger brother has Hedmans on his 65 cutlass with a 425 in it and a turbo 
400 automatic. They have been on there for 9 years and the car sits outside. 
So far ,no leaks and they look to be fine....thats with no special coating 
either...not bad for the basic Hedmans....Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 21:22:50 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: 70 Cutlass dashboard removal

Tee_Templeton@tivoli.com wrote:
> 
> I just bought a 1970 Cutlass convertible.  How do you get the dashboard
> off?  I need to figure out why the top vents don't work
> and I want to put in a new speaker(s) and a new radio (I'm not going to cut
> into anything).   Any advice for speaker placement would be appreciated
> (i.e. where do you put them in the back?...or do you?)
> 
> Thanks, Tee

Tee,

Your '70 is like my '72.  You shouldn't need to remove the dashpad to
service any of these items.

The speaker is mounted to the metal part of the dash, and that part of
the dash can't be removed.  You'll have to lay on your back and reach up
under the dash to replace the speaker.  This is alot easier to do on a
non A/C car than it is an A/C car.

I think the first thing you should do if you're going to be working
under the dash is remover the lower valance panel (the one with the 2
A/C outlets in it.  All you'll need to do is remove the sheetmetal
screws holding it in and slide off the A/C hoses.  Then remove the A/C
manifold.  It's the big plastic duct piece there on the firewall with
some other ductwork coming off of it.  Looks like it's only held in with
two screws (on the bottom) or so.  You need to remove this to get the
radio out.

With the items you're talking about working on, remove the radio first. 
Pull the knobs and remove the attaching nuts behind them.  Disconnect
the antenna lead in and the power plug.  Remove the nut that holds on
the hanger and bracket on the passenger side.  And the radio should
slide out the back.  You'll have to move it around to find the best way
to drop it out the bottom of the dash.  If you've got the correct stereo
radio, there is multiplex unit above the glove box.  You'll have to
unplug this too to get the radio out.  You could leave the multiplex
there, but if you've got a radio problem both units need to be services
together according to Oldsmobile.

You need to remove the center duct to get at the speaker.  Remove the
two screws (through the front of the center outlet, one on each side)
and pull the outlet out.  Then remove two more screws (one on each side)
that attach the center duct to the dash pad.  Since you've already
removed the manifold the duct should slide right out the back and down
out the way the radio just came.  There are two screws (one on each
side) that hold the speaker in.  Remove them and speaker should drop.

A magnetic screwdriver will be a big help with all this.

Once you reassemble all this, your vent problem may or may not be
fixed.  Might you have a lack of vacuum or a bad blower motor?

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 20:34:13 -0700
From: Andy Lawrence <lawrencj@coral.indstate.edu>
Subject: Re: off topic posts

This site has a reputation for quality Auto advise, why shouldn't we get help
with "other" autos as well?  The same mechanical advise can be used on many
other autos as well.......We don't all JUST drive Olds's, besides Olds doesn't
make a Motorcycle!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 21:32:13 EDT
From: Harrell17@aol.com
Subject: Wheel adapters

Back in the "Good Ol Days" when I was a kid you could buy adapters to change 
wheel bolt patterns, like 5 hole to 6 hole, Ford to Chevy, etc. Does anyone 
know where those can still be found. I have a set of SSII wheels I would like 
to put on my 65 Chevy pickup. Thanks, Jim

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 20:42:48 -0500
From: "Walker" <pwalker@megavision.com>
Subject: Re: Welding Cab corners

Yes you can weld thin sheet metal with .30 Flux core wire, but .25 wire with
an CO2/Argon gas mix will perform much better.  It will also weld cleaner.
40 amps would be more than enough.  If you have a Linweld near your
location, they sell moongone gas which works quite well.


- -----Original Message-----
From: Andy Lawrence <lawrencj@coral.indstate.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, May 26, 1999 6:32 PM
Subject: Welding Cab corners


>
>    I currently have a Craftsman Mig 150 amp wire welder!  This welder does
have
>a gas option, but i don't have the money for the take and such.....My
question
>is i have some new Cab corner to weld in my 90 Chevy Truck, can i do this
with
>.30 Flux core welding wire without burning thru?  I don't have experience
on
>welding thin metal like that, but i can weld thick metal quite well! what
do you
>think?
>
>Andy
>
>79 Olds
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 19:49:21 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: brake booster color?/vs plateing?

Wayne Schwartz wrote:
> 
> I'm interested in comments too.  Coincidently I just picked up a new booster
> tonight and will probably use the Eastwoods paint on it since I don't live
> near a good plating shop.  Anyone got Eastwoods 1-800 number.  I don't have
> a catalogue.

http://www.eastwoodco.com/ or,
Customer Service Representative: 1-800-544-5118 or,
Order over the Phone by Calling: 1-800-345-1178 or,
mailto:orderhelp@eastwoodco.com
- -- 

Cliff "Surfer" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 21:50:37 -0400
From: "Richard H. Soard" <rsoard@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 79 Cutlass A/C

Dear Jeff,

Thanks for you comments about the hoses.  Can you offer any suggestions or
tips on replacing the compressor, flushing the components, reassembly,
charging, etc?

Richard

PS -- When I was in college in 1967 I bought a new GTO, of course, 442's
were the big competition.  I loved that car and wished I could buy it new
today -- paid $2850 brand new in 1967!

At 10:59 PM 5/25/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Hey Richard,
>A/C lines can get expensive very quickly.  You may save some cash having
>them redone at a local hose shop.  My favorite farmers' hose shop will
>replace just the rubber parts of the line for about half the cost.  They
>use much sturdier crimps and more modern hose than you can get at the
>dealer anyway.  They can also reroute ill fitting lines. 
>
>Jeff Carter
>68 Olds 442
>82 Gran Fury cop car

rsoard@mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 22:00:56 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: OFF TOPIC POSTS (was Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR 
SUSPENSION....)

Doug Ahern wrote:
> 
> this list is an oldsmobile list covering cars from 1902 to 1999...

Ya know what?  I don't mind the occaisional off-topic post as much as I
do all the b*tch*ng about it!  Give it a rest!  All the b*tch*ing I
listen to at work all day long I sure don't wanna listen to it here.

Can't wait for full moon to be over!

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 22:05:46 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: 1950 Olds for sale

JonKrisInc@aol.com wrote:
>  
> How hard is it to get a grill and parts in general?

'50s are pretty popular, you shouldn't have trouble finding parts. 
First thing you'll want to do is join the NOAC.

> I want to pay a fair price, but not go for my shirt. What's fair?

What is it?  A Convertible? Holiday Coupe?  Club Coupe?  2-door Sedan? 
4-door Sedan?  Standard of DeLuxe model?  It all makes a difference...

> Are skirts and visor rare or desirable?

I don't think they're rare.  Skirts were not standard, but they were
pretty common.  Visors where optional, too, but probably not as common
as skirts.  Both options are desierable in my opinion.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 21:07:16 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: '68 Cutlass grille needed

Jim Chermac had one I believe but it was too much for me.  I ended 
up getting 3 broken ones (all free) and cut out all the good parts and
epoxied them together.  A little bondo and some sanding and you
can't tell the difference.  

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/


>Thanks for clearing that up - of course before now I kept seeing '68 
>Cutlass' getting parted out right & left and now -----  zippo.
>
>
>"Lisa Madsen" <Lisa@hotglass.com>
>
>Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile - Home Page
>http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 22:18:38 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: 1950 Olds for sale

I'm sending this again, only because I'm embarrassed that I didn't proof
read it better.  I've been sick folks, evidently still not entirely
recovered!

Paul Hartlieb wrote:
> 
> JonKrisInc@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > How hard is it to get a grill and parts in general?
> 
> '50s are pretty popular, you shouldn't have trouble finding parts.
> First thing you'll want to do is join the NOAC.

That would be NAOC.  Good thing I'm not there Official Spokesperson.
 
> > I want to pay a fair price, but not go for my shirt. What's fair?
> 
> What is it?  A Convertible? Holiday Coupe?  Club Coupe?  2-door Sedan?
> 4-door Sedan?  Standard of DeLuxe model?  It all makes a difference...

Uh, that should have been Standard OR DeLuxe model...

> > Are skirts and visor rare or desirable?
> 
> I don't think they're rare.  Skirts were not standard, but they were
> pretty common.  Visors where optional, too, but probably not as common
> as skirts.  Both options are desierable in my opinion.

And, of course, you know I meant to spell desirable correctly.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 21:30:36 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Master cylinder question

Master;
Read your posts, this is totally caca. Stick to only things that are
relevant. Poop!
Lou

- ----------
> From: Master Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: Master cylinder question
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 21:33:37 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: off topic posts

Greg;
Thank God on this one.
Lou

- ----------
> From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: off topic posts

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 21:36:15 -0700
From: Andy Lawrence <lawrencj@coral.indstate.edu>
Subject: Re: OFF TOPIC POSTS (was Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION 
BAR  SUSPENSION....)

- --------------B3C4DBDDEACFBD99E1710844
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit



Paul Hartlieb wrote:

> Doug Ahern wrote:
> >
> > this list is an oldsmobile list covering cars from 1902 to 1999...
>
> Ya know what?  I don't mind the occaisional off-topic post as much as I
> do all the b*tch*ng about it!  Give it a rest!  All the b*tch*ing I
> listen to at work all day long I sure don't wanna listen to it here.
>
> Can't wait for full moon to be over!
>
> Paul
> --
> Paul Hartlieb
> Myerstown, PA
> mailto:plh@nbn.net

I agree!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!





- --------------B3C4DBDDEACFBD99E1710844
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
&nbsp;
<p>Paul Hartlieb wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE>Doug Ahern wrote:
<br>>
<br>> this list is an oldsmobile list covering cars from 1902 to 1999...
<p>Ya know what?&nbsp; I don't mind the occaisional off-topic post as much
as I
<br>do all the b*tch*ng about it!&nbsp; Give it a rest!&nbsp; All the b*tch*ing
I
<br>listen to at work all day long I sure don't wanna listen to it here.
<p>Can't wait for full moon to be over!
<p>Paul
<br>--
<br>Paul Hartlieb
<br>Myerstown, PA
<br><a href="mailto:plh@nbn.net">mailto:plh@nbn.net</a></blockquote>
<font size=+2>I agree!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!</font>
<br>&nbsp;
<br>&nbsp;
<br>&nbsp;
<br>&nbsp;</html>

- --------------B3C4DBDDEACFBD99E1710844--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 21:35:07 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: turn signal falling off 68 442

>Is this an easy fix.
>It's just hanging by a thread now.
>Thanks

Uhhh, you talking about the lever on the column?  If so, you'll have 
to take the steering wheel off.  It's held onto the switch by 2 screws
which may be missing.  If you have stripped threads (the switch is
plastic) you could effect some type of repair like using larger screws
or some kind of small nut and bolt or just replace the switch.  The latter
means you pretty much have to dis-assemble the column which isn't
that difficult, but a repair manual would be good to have to make sure
you put it back together correctly.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/
 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 22:37:44 EDT
From: Mr6BBL@aol.com
Subject: Re: test

yup.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 21:40:57 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Off Topics

Greg and all;
Don't know what the big deal is here. Aren't we all brothers? We're not
driving Chevys. Help a guy out when he's in a bind. If not, take my butt
off the list. I thought we were all together. Much talk about nothing. Grow
up guys!
Lou (Master) Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
oca#31353

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 22:43:28 EDT
From: Pont4Door@aol.com
Subject: New '67 Cutlass Convert. owner

Hello listers...

I have just purchased a 1967 Cutlass Convertible...75,000mi, Jetaway, p/s, 
and cold fact. air.

I will be taking delivery of the auto mid June.  It is in Pennsylvania, 
though a Fla car, and I am in San Francisco.

My question to the experts is thus...

What should I look for prior to making the cross country drive?  I am 
interested in any known weak spots for this auto.  It appears to be in 
overall great shape, NO rust, straight body, mint interior, very well taken 
care of.  Still, (expletive) happens.

I appreciate any and all info, and look fwd. to utilizing this mailing list 
fully.

Cheers...Stephen Sims

1962 Pontiac Starchief Four Door Vista (was little old lady's car)
1986 Olds Cutlass Cruiser (Sally Suburban)
Soon 1967 Olds Cutlass Convertible...ROAD TRIP !!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 22:51:08 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: New '67 Cutlass Convert. owner

Check the area of the floor thats under the convertible top pistons...a big 
rot area...and look real good at the frame and the frame rail at the back of 
the car.  Should have a 12 bolt rear (all convertibles did in 67)  You might 
even luck out and get a Limited Slip rear. Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 21:54:16 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: PCV Tech

>Racers have used a crankcase evacuation system, which basically involves a
tube
>plumbed into the exhaust pipe at an angle, so the exhaust flow, acting as a
>venturi, sucks the vapors out.  The ones I've seen had downpipes on each
side,
>presumably a breather through the oil fill tube.  They need a check valve
in the
>downpipes, so that backfires cannot blow into the crankcase...  the
ultimate
>blowby... or should that be blow... bye.  Theoretically the vapor is burned
up
>by the time it leaves the exhaust pipe, but emissions probably are
affected, so
>check local laws before considerring something like this.  Rumorred to be
highly
>effective, though, and doesn't contaminate the air/fuel charge going into
the
>cylinders....  a must for racers.


Please, don't even consider one of these systems for a street car, i.e. one
that
has mufflers.  The reason is that once you introduce backpressure into the
system it simply doesn't work very well, if at all.  If you are really that
concerned
with dilution of the intake charge, consider one of the mechanical
alternatives.
Moroso (I think that's who makes it) has just come out with a belt driven
vacuum
pump for just this purpose.  I have even seen smog pumps used to pull a
vacuum
on the crankcase.  It's been researched that actually having negative
pressure
in the crankcase is better in terms of power and oil control, thus one of
the
reasons dry sump systems with their multiple stage pumps are used in all
serious
race cars (not meaning to slight anyone that doesn't have one).

Also I have seen it mentioned that it is best to run a pcv valve on one
cover and
a breather on the other.  This is not completely true.  The factory designs
are a
completely contained system with a breather connected to the air cleaner.
This
acts as an overflow for the crankcase if there is more pressure than can be
sucked
out by the pcv valve, it will dump into the air cleaner, but mainly it is
because during
full throttle your vacuum at the pcv valve drops but there is a vacuum in
the air cleaner
as the air rushes into the engine.  This makes up for the drop at the valve.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 22:01:26 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: NON OLDS, need a ford price

Please reply to me privately.  A friend has found a very clean 63 Falcon but
we don't have much of a clue as to a reasonable price.  The car is very
clean
and all original with the exception of paint (original color but not very
good
quality).  The floors are solid, all the little parts are there and it purrs
like a
kitten.  Basically it just has a couple dents and the normal aged stuff like
weatherstrip and front seat.  2nd owner (has registration back to 75 and
original owners reg) and 63K miles.  The catch is it doesn't have any power
anything, straight 6, and 2spd auto.  What's a reasonable price?

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 23:06:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: interesting query

got this via email:

> i have a 72 olds cutlass with a 350..can i put a 400 crank in it to make a
> stroker like the sbc?? what kind of machine work is involved. any help would
> be appreciated..rred442
============
to which I replied:

Sorry, Olds != Chevy.
The closest you could come would be to use the 350 Die&sell block, put in the
early 400/ 425 crank with a kit from Mondello, considerable machine work
involved, and get a 425 cid small block that still uses liquid coolant
[streetable]. All other Olds sb's use the same-stroke crank, so swapping
between 260, 330, 350, 307, 403 will not gain or lose CID, just upset the
balance.


- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 23:12:17 -0400
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: PCV Tech

There was an article about this in Bracket Racing magazine. Back pressure
caused by mufflers on race cars are causing a problem. The problem is that
pressure is literally popping the breathers off the motors. This is a BIG
problem with dragsters. Not only does it cause serious oil leaks, but the
breathers are attached to braided stainless line and the breathers go under
the rear tires while still firmly attached to the header collectors. Being
braided stainless line, it does not simply break. IT HAS WRECKED CARS.

Also, there was a letter in the tech session from Chris Witt. He taught them
a thing or two! They acknowledged it. Imagine, a genius in our midst.

Ed

- -----Original Message-----

>
>>Racers have used a crankcase evacuation system, which basically involves a
>tube
>>plumbed into the exhaust pipe at an angle, so the exhaust flow, acting as
a
>>venturi, sucks the vapors out.  The ones I've seen had downpipes on each
>side,
>>presumably a breather through the oil fill tube.  They need a check valve
>in the
>>downpipes, so that backfires cannot blow into the crankcase...  the
>ultimate
>>blowby... or should that be blow... bye.  Theoretically the vapor is
burned
>up
>>by the time it leaves the exhaust pipe, but emissions probably are
>affected, so
>>check local laws before considerring something like this.  Rumorred to be
>highly
>>effective, though, and doesn't contaminate the air/fuel charge going into
>the
>>cylinders....  a must for racers.
>
>
>Please, don't even consider one of these systems for a street car, i.e. one
>that
>has mufflers.  The reason is that once you introduce backpressure into the
>system it simply doesn't work very well, if at all.  If you are really that
>concerned
>with dilution of the intake charge, consider one of the mechanical
>alternatives.
>Moroso (I think that's who makes it) has just come out with a belt driven
>vacuum
>pump for just this purpose.  I have even seen smog pumps used to pull a
>vacuum
>on the crankcase.  It's been researched that actually having negative
>pressure
>in the crankcase is better in terms of power and oil control, thus one of
>the
>reasons dry sump systems with their multiple stage pumps are used in all
>serious
>race cars (not meaning to slight anyone that doesn't have one).
>
>Also I have seen it mentioned that it is best to run a pcv valve on one
>cover and
>a breather on the other.  This is not completely true.  The factory designs
>are a
>completely contained system with a breather connected to the air cleaner.
>This
>acts as an overflow for the crankcase if there is more pressure than can be
>sucked
>out by the pcv valve, it will dump into the air cleaner, but mainly it is
>because during
>full throttle your vacuum at the pcv valve drops but there is a vacuum in
>the air cleaner
>as the air rushes into the engine.  This makes up for the drop at the
valve.
>
>Mike Bloomer
>mbloomer@mindspring.com
>ICQ# 19113713
>http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 23:10:46 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: f/s shifter cables source?

Second inquiry this week for a source for shifter cables for TH350 or TH400
cars with console.

Where can folks buy these cables?


Forwarded message:
> From roge0172@tc.umn.edu Wed May 26 15:51:36 1999
>
> looking for a shift linkage cable for a 1969 oldsmobile cutlass with a 350
> CID 2 barrel, TH-350 transmission,  and a
> console (floor) shifter.
>
> If you've got one, or know where I can find one, I'd appreciate a message
> back.
>     -Matt Rogers

- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 20:13:33 PDT
From: "scott slater" <slater442w30@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: OFF TOPIC POSTS (was Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR 
SUSPENSION....)

Well andy I am the sorry sorry person who posted the (oh my god CHRYSLER) 
question and I agree fully with you on the way these things are handled.  I 
would be totally satisfied if I could go to my OLDS lovin' brothers and 
sisters in a time of need and have them simply mail me back at my address 
instead of bothering the rest of you guys and gals out there.  So next time 
I have any non OLDS questions (I will try not to) I will tell people to mail 
me personally at the bottom of my question and give them my e-mail address. 
as for Doug I had already spent a good hour on the Internet that night going 
through the different search engines and couldn't find the address you found 
so thanks for the address.


Scott Slater
70 Cutlass Supreme
78 Cutlass Supreme
73 Chrysler T&C Wagon


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 23:14:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Re: W-31 project available

ILL area??

contact him for particulars, sounds good to me...
'69 W31 project car, new 1/4 panels, etc.



> From KMeharg1@aol.com Wed May 26 16:55:37 1999
> Thanks for the reply, if you know of anyone who might be interested please
> pass this along, I can make the price right. Like around 3K,    Thanks Ken

- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 23:16:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: More on '69 W31

From KMeharg1@aol.com
Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 17:17:37 EDT
Subject: W-31

Hi Chris, sorry it's taken so long to get back to you. As I mentioned before
it appears that all the original W-parts are there. But this is a project
car, I have it pretty well stripped down. It's a 4-speed bucket seats no
console car 3:42 posi ,sway bars, boxed control arms, black plastic inner
fenders. Also have new RA hoses and reproduction RA scoops plus extra body
shell with frame and a 72 frame, 4 extra rear qrts and an extra set of
bumpers. Sorry I don't have any pictures right now but will send other info
you would like. I'm serious about selling if interested.
          Thanks Ken
=====================
there ya go.


- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 23:18:03 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: oldsifieds (fwd)

to be in next JWO:


>       ===============================================================
> Category: PARTS FOR SALE
>
> 1966 Cutlass: hood hinges $30/pr., excellent blue seat belts $100.
> 1965 Starfire: black panels, excellent, $200. 1967 dash $50. New parts
> car: 1975 Cutlass 4dr w/I6. Nodular 455 crank $100. Heads, #5A, fresh,
> $200/pr. AM/FM/8T/CB radios, numerous manuals; List: email or SASE &$1.
> Chris, 1303 W. Miller Rd., Lansing MI 48911; 517-882-9747;
> wittchri@pilot.msu.edu .
>       ===========================================================
>
> Category: PARTS WANTED
>
> Distributor #1111470, Quadrajet #7028254, any condition. Chris,
> 1303 W. Miller Rd., Lansing MI 48911, 517-882-9747, wittchri@pilot.msu.edu.
>       ===========================================================

- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 21:21:43 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Buick V6--> V8 motor mounts???

> Yes - the 455 will also bolt to the 3.8 mounts.  
> bit of trivia - the brackets from your 3.8 will bolt directly to the V-8!

Well, whaddya know...  Just so happens I picked me up a Buick 455 today... 
Except that it's happily hiding under the monster hood of a '73 Riviera.   
Title problems will limit my driving ability with the beast, so hmm...  maybe
the Teaser's gonna get a bit beefier after all...  :)

Thanks for the tips, Todd!  Worth a million! :)

- -- 
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://drive.to/Oldsmagnet    See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 23:21:47 EDT
From: Mr6BBL@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1950 Olds for sale

my father bought a 1950 olds 88 2dr 2 yrs ago not running complete, and from 
colordo for 2200.  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 22:23:56 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: OFF TOPIC POSTS (was Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION 
BARSUSPENSION....)

Scott:
Amen!
Lou

- ----------
> From: scott slater <slater442w30@hotmail.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: OFF TOPIC POSTS (was Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER
TORSION BARSUSPENSION....)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 22:28:47 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: New '67 Cutlass Convert. owner

>What should I look for prior to making the cross country drive?  I am
>interested in any known weak spots for this auto.  It appears to be in
>overall great shape, NO rust, straight body, mint interior, very well taken
>care of.  Still, (expletive) happens.

Pretty much just the same stuff you would check on any other car.  There's
the obvious like belts and hoses, but you would also want to take a look
at the suspension and tires.  Check for bad bushings and any loosness
in the steering.  It would be a good idea to flush the rad if it doesn't
look
too good and check the weep hole on the bottom of the water pump for
signs of seepage.  If the car has been sitting for a while, try to put a few
around town miles on it before you hit the open road, and bring tools
just in case.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 23:32:47 EDT
From: Knightvd@aol.com
Subject: Re: f/s shifter cables source?

Got one for my 71 from Year One.  Seems like they bought up the remaining GM 
supply.

By the way, when I did the conversion for floor shift I used a trans shift 
bracket and lever (the connection at the tranny end on the cable) from a 73 
Salon Sedan.  This thing had a factory floor shifter and console, first one I 
have ever seen.  Anyway, I ended up having to file the slot in the trans 
lever to give me the proper travel for use with my stock 71 shifter.  What a 
pain, the shifter looked so similiar, but the 73 has different spacing of the 
gear detents.

Vince Knight
71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 23:48:38 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Break Dust Problem.

Can anyone suggest the best brake pad with the least wear? I'm sure that
involves some sort of sinistered (Sp?) pads. Is there a percentage of metal
impregnation where overall usage quality starts to deteriorate due to heat
retention within the pads? My brake rotors were new with the pads last
Summer and are wearing absolutely smooth. No sign of any uneven or
accelerated wear.

After having tweaked Quincy's suspension to nearly top notch, I'm noticing a
layer of brake dust along the sides of the car. Even if only having run say
50 miles, if I'm on the breaks medium hard the car gets a light coating of
dust. It's definitely brake dust. Do those plexiglass brake shields that
slip on between the hub and wheel help at containing the dust from coming
out through the rim vent holes? Anyone ever try these shields?  Though I'm
sure they will also hinder brake cooling. The dust makes a quick black mess
of a California Duster ©.

When I last changed the front pads I believe I purchased all organic pads
with no metal particulate in them. Can anyone suggest a pad for least wear
in harsh breaking conditions?

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

- -------------------------------------------------------------------
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($.50 per Hour) and for referrals. Please tell all
of your friends about this program as possible.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
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                -----0000---\/---0000-----

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 23:51:23 EDT
From: CUTLASS442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Buick V6--> V8 motor mounts???

'73 Riv??? Hmmmmm.........thats what my 455 in my Cutlass is out of 
also.....nice cars...wish I had the space to keep the Buick......oh well

Richard
1967 "Oldsmobuick" Cutlass

<< 
 Well, whaddya know...  Just so happens I picked me up a Buick 455 today... 
 Except that it's happily hiding under the monster hood of a '73 Riviera.   
 Title problems will limit my driving ability with the beast, so hmm...  maybe
 the Teaser's gonna get a bit beefier after all...  :)
  >>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 23:07:20 -0700
From: Andy Lawrence <lawrencj@coral.indstate.edu>
Subject: Re: OFF TOPIC POSTS (was Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION  
BARSUSPENSION....)

Scott, you E-Mail me any time you need any help!  I don't care if it is about
your 3rd Divorced Wife!  I am an Olds man, but i am always willing to help in
any way that i can!  I own a 79 Olds, 90 Chevy and did own a CBR 900 RR until i
wrecked it 2 weeks ago.....There isn't any reason why you can't write about
Chrysler's if you want to......This forum stays 95%+ aboue Olds and that is 
what
matters, if the occosional Olds guy has a question about one of his other 
Autos,
SO BE IT!!!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 21:06:11 -0700
From: tarzan@foxinternet.net
Subject: Re: f/s shifter cables source?

have you checked with year one? fusick? brothers automotive?

give them a try.......good luck.DAN

Chris Brown Witt wrote:

> Second inquiry this week for a source for shifter cables for TH350 or TH400
> cars with console.
>
> Where can folks buy these cables?
>
> Forwarded message:
> > From roge0172@tc.umn.edu Wed May 26 15:51:36 1999
> >
> > looking for a shift linkage cable for a 1969 oldsmobile cutlass with a 350
> > CID 2 barrel, TH-350 transmission,  and a
> > console (floor) shifter.
> >
> > If you've got one, or know where I can find one, I'd appreciate a message
> > back.
> >     -Matt Rogers
>
> --
> Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
> Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
> --
> 517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
> Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 00:25:16 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Non Olds discussion

Moparrp@aol.com wrote:
> 
> hey guys we all have our different likes, i have my 66 cutlass, 68 camaro, 67
> ply fury and87 gmc van (no fords).if we can help, whats it hurt?

You know, I agree.  We all know this is an Olds list first and foremost.
And I am on four  auto lists now (used to be six until I dropped the BMW
one and the GS list disappearred).  Out of those lists, the Olds list
was my first one.  And probably my favorite one still.  And as has been
pointed out by several people, most of us have several different makes
in our flock.  I guess for that reason I tend to be a lot more tolerant
of the basically non-Olds posts than some.  And for some reason, I seem
to get a response quicker to my questions from my fellow Oldsmonuts than
those on the other lists, so I tend to ask questions more on this list
than the other ones.  Such as my inquires about scanners and digital
cameras and so forth.  Although technically non-Olds, it is to me in
that I'm trying to get to the point where I can send pictures of some of
the stuff I find on my junk yard runs if someone asks what so and so
looks like.  A picture takes out the guess work and gets the discussion
of how much rust it has, etc out of the way.  I don't mind telling
people about this stuff, but I just don't want to mislead anyone.  

And if the truth were to be told, I suspect that there are more posts
complaining about a non-Olds comment than the original post.  But
whatever.  I suspect that most of us look upon this as Greg's World, and
we are merely citizens.  I would think if someone needed assistance in
finding another automobile list, we should reply privately and try to
aid them.  I would suspect that we have people on this list with a wide
range of computer and internet expertise.  Meaning there have been
several times I have tried to locate something on the net and was unable
to locate it.  I ask someone more knowledgible about how to find it and
then I can locate it.  I guess the bottom line (good accountant
terminology) is, if I can aid someone I do it privately.  It's really
not that big a deal to me as long as it doesn't cause Greg a problem.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 00:54:13 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: OFF TOPIC POSTS (was Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION  
BARSUSPENSION....)

Andy Lawrence wrote:
> 
> Scott, you E-Mail me any time you need any help!  I don't care if it is about
> your 3rd Divorced Wife!  I am an Olds man, but i am always willing to help in

Snipping a little here...

> matters, if the occosional Olds guy has a question about one of his other 
Autos,
> SO BE IT!!!!!!!!

Andy for President!  Even the Olds Magnet has a.................Buick in
the house.  (Sorry for ratting on you Charley.)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 01:13:37 -0400
From: Dave Tucker <dwtucker@cwix.com>
Subject: 1965 442 Experts

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I am in the process of detailing me 65 and I have a few questions I hope =
some of you guys my have the answers to.

  1.. What type of Battery cables are original?  Slip ring or bolt =
style?
  2.. What color are the add on items on the engine?  Like the brackets =
for the P/S Pump, the Pump itself, the battery try, radiator supports, =
etc....Are they gloss or semi gloss black?
  3.. Did the 65 442 have  a hood blanket?
  4.. Was there a spare tire cover?
  5.. How many decals were used under hood and in the trunk?  What type =
and where?
Sorry for the numerous questions.  I have been looking in various =
manuals and can not find definitive details which specifically say what =
is correct and what is incorrect.  All the main suppliers (Super Cars, =
Year One, etc.) supply all of the stuff for the 65, I am just not sure =
if I am supposed to use it or not.

If anyone knows of some great manuals or detailed data books on these =
types of topics, I would appreciate the input.

Thanks in advance.....

L8R,

Dave Tucker

OCA # 031534

1965 Olds 4-4-2 Convertible 4-Speed (Target Red)
1999 Olds Alero GLS Coupe (Bright Red)
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------=
- --------
dwtucker@cwix.com - Home
dwtucker69@hotmail.com - Universal
david.w.tucker@delphiauto.com - Work
- -------------------------------------------------------------------------=
- -------
Reach me by ICQ.  My ICQ UIN is 198956

Send me E-mail Express directly to my computer screen =
198956@pager.mirabilis.com

Visit my Web Page:  http://www.cwix.com/~dwtucker@cwix.com
 =20

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<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><BASE=20
href=3D"file://C:\Program Files\Common Files\Microsoft =
Shared\Stationery\">
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3401" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
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<BODY background=3Dcid:005101bea7ff$acfe5240$e0af3ea6@0204397574961342=20
bgColor=3D#ffffff style=3D"COLOR: #0000a0">
<DIV>I am in the process of detailing me 65 and I have a few questions I =
hope=20
some of you guys my have the answers to.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<OL>
  <LI>What type of Battery cables are original?&nbsp; Slip ring or bolt=20
  style?</LI>
  <LI>What color are the add on items on the engine?&nbsp; Like the =
brackets for=20
  the P/S Pump, the Pump itself, the battery try, radiator supports, =
etc....Are=20
  they gloss or semi gloss black?</LI>
  <LI>Did the 65 442 have  a hood blanket?</LI>
  <LI>Was there a spare tire cover?</LI>
  <LI>How many decals were used under hood and in the trunk?&nbsp; What =
type and=20
  where?</LI></OL>
<DIV>Sorry for the numerous questions.&nbsp; I have been looking in =
various=20
manuals and can not find definitive details which specifically say what =
is=20
correct and what is incorrect.&nbsp; All the main suppliers (Super Cars, =
Year=20
One, etc.) supply all of the stuff for the 65, I am just not sure if I =
am=20
supposed to use it or not.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>If anyone knows of some great manuals or detailed data books on =
these types=20
of topics, I would appreciate the input.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Thanks in advance.....</DIV>
<DIV><BR>L8R,</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Dave Tucker</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>OCA # 031534</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>1965 Olds 4-4-2 Convertible 4-Speed (Target Red)<BR>1999 Olds Alero =
GLS=20
Coupe (Bright=20
Red)<BR>-----------------------------------------------------------------=
- ----------------<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:dwtucker@cwix.com">dwtucker@cwix.com</A> - Home<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:dwtucker69@hotmail.com">dwtucker69@hotmail.com</A> -=20
Universal<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:david.w.tucker@delphiauto.com">david.w.tucker@delphiauto.c=
om</A> -=20
Work<BR>-----------------------------------------------------------------=
- ---------------<BR>Reach=20
me by ICQ.&nbsp; My ICQ UIN is 198956</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Send me E-mail Express directly to my computer screen <A=20
href=3D"mailto:198956@pager.mirabilis.com">198956@pager.mirabilis.com</A>=
</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Visit my Web Page:&nbsp; <A=20
href=3D"http://www.cwix.com/~dwtucker@cwix.com">http://www.cwix.com/~dwtu=
cker@cwix.com</A></DIV>&nbsp;=20
</BODY></HTML>

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1981
*********************************

