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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1990


oldsmobile-digest        Tuesday, June 1 1999        Volume 01 : Number 1990



Re: Headers (Do or Don't them)
Re: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)
Re: Windshields
Re: No More Performer?  WAS: Wanted 455 Alum Intake
Re: Windshields
Re: 160 deg. VS. 180 deg
Re: Headers, Yet another Question (from a different guy)
Re: Headers (Do or Dont)
Re: No More Performer?  WAS: Wanted 455 Alum Intake
Budget Buildup 455 update
Re: Custom Kick Panels w/ built in speakers?
Re: No More Performer?  WAS: Wanted 455 Alum Intake
Re: Good Transmission Shops in D.C.--more info
Re: Bad Olds day
RE: Cool Can (How to???)
Re: Budget Buildup 455 update
Weekend fun
Re: 42 Volt systems coming
Re: Jetstar 88 was: Sunday night musings
Re: Good Transmission Shops in D.C.--more info
Re: Olds Power Indy.
Re: Headers, Yet another Question (from a different guy)
Re: Headers (Do or Dont)
Re: Oldsmogrumbling
Re: Budget Buildup 455 update
Re: Headers (Do or Dont)
Re: Good Transmission Shops in D.C.--more info
Memorial Day Fun
two 1950 olds for sale
Re: No More Performer?  WAS: Wanted 455 Alum Intake
Re: Weekend fun
Re: Weekend fun
RE: No More Performer?  WAS: Wanted 455 Alum Intake
Windshield vs. Rocks
Re: Windshield vs. Rocks
RE: Windshield vs. Rocks
RE: Windshield vs. Rocks
RE: Windshield vs. Rocks
RE: Windshield vs. Rocks
Convertible top question
Re: Weekend fun
Need a Transmission.
Re: Headers (Do or Dont)
Re: Fake W30 Opinions

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 08:40:28 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Headers (Do or Don't them)

In a message dated 05/31/1999 11:16:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Four42much@aol.com writes:

<< I also own a 
 late 80s mustang 5.0 that was a SCCA road racing monster for all of its life 
 and now its back on the street terrorizing new corvettes .....I must be very 
 ill...too many non Oldsmobiles....I have headers for a big block ...brand 
new 
 in the box for the A bodies ....my dads 66 starfire 4speed is in a space in 
 my garage , so that keeps me in Olds land....Hot Rod Harry  >>

So, you finally came clean.  LOL.  At least you still have an Olds in the 
garage.  This way you can stay on the list.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 05:50:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)

> << Are Flex Fans worth the money.  My stock set-up
> works okay, except at idle.
>  When I stage for a long time, the temp. gets up-to
> 200 degrees and I would
>  like to keep it down.  I was told that flex fans
> "always" spin and that they
>  don't have heat actuated clutches.  That should
> help at idle, as well as
>  free up some ponies at the top end going down the
> track.  After all, flex
>  fans are lighter and they, well, flex.
>  
>  Lets hear from someone who has ran this.  What
> about the noise?  Thanks. >>
===================================

I have a flex fan on my Cutlass with a '70 350. I like
how much it keeps my car cool, but I have to disagree
that it frees up ponies. They take a lot more power
since they are a direct drive off the pully. I also
have a hard time keeping my belts from squeeling when
I punch the gas. The only other thing to watch out for
is, DON'T OVER-REV THE FANS! If the fan is only rated
at 5,000 don't rev over that! Two things can happen.
One is that the blades will let go flying through the
hood and anything else that gets in the way. Or they
can actually fold over the opposite way and bore a
hole in the radiator. A friend of mine saw this happen
at the strip one time. So all in all, it's gonna be
another one of those personal choices. I like mine in
some ways and in others I dislike it. I'm actually
thinking about losing the fan completely and going
electric. But that's just me! :-)

Del
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 09:10:11 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Windshields

Yes, exactly. Just make sure you go around the entire windshield a couple
times and press it down real good to make sure it gets a good grip on both
the metal and windshield. Once you push it on, you won't pull it back off,
so don't get it crooked. Don't stretch it out either. Push it straight
down. Although it's probably not necessary and a little overkill, I like to
smear clear silicone all around the outside edge of the windshield too. I
figure what the hell. It's extra leak protection and you can't see it under
the trim anyhow.

Omega Man
'74 Omega S 455/auto
'74 Omega 455/4spd

At 11:40 PM 5/29/99 -0500, you wrote:
>go to your local auto paint outlet and get a roll of 3M 3/8" butyl tape, for
>windshields its a sticky stuff kike tar you press it into place and set the
>glass on top of it and it sticks to it then you squirt the black sticky
>windshield sealant on it for a better seal, it is called windoweld...KK
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Mike Bloomer <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Sent: Saturday, May 29, 1999 10:54 PM
>Subject: Re: Windshields
>
>
>> >Don't worry, I do it myself. I've done it a couple times before. Just got
>a
>> >little impatient on this one
>>
>> O.K., my question is what do you use to seal the windshield back in with?
>> I just pulled the one out of my 68 yesterday and the original gasket and
>> silicone? was still intact.  Do I need to find a new gasket?  Can I just
>use
>> a silicone adhesive?  The windshield is delaminating a bit and I put a
>small
>> crack in it but I figure I can get by for a while on this one, once I fix
>> the rust
>> on the dash.  Quite sickening though, once I got all the rusty stuff cut
>> out.
>> Oh well, I guess there is a reason I bought a welder!
>>
>> Mike Bloomer
>> mbloomer@mindspring.com
>> ICQ# 19113713
>> http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/
>>
>>
>>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 09:27:04 EDT
From: Oldsfire@aol.com
Subject: Re: No More Performer?  WAS: Wanted 455 Alum Intake

According to there 1999 catalog they still are!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 09:31:39 EDT
From: Mrmagic442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Windshields

  I know that the butyl tape if what the factory used to install the glass 
originally. But with urathane being so available I believe it's the only way 
to go. Over time butyl will change in heat and cold and ultimately leak. If 
you go to a good glass shop and have it properly urathaned in it will be a 
rust fighting permanent installation. Urathane requires using pinchweld 
primer which will fight rust. Urathane will not change as time goes on and 
begin to leak. I would recommend that you never use silicone to seal around 
the edges either. Silicone promotes rust faster.

                   Jeff,
         Windshield Magic       1-800-560-8061
         611 Ivy Street
         Junction City   OR
                         97448	

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 09:49:07 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: 160 deg. VS. 180 deg

Not my '70. I had a 160 in it and it ran right at 160 all the time. Put a
195 in it now it runs from 200-215 (in traffic). Got a 180 laying on the
shelf I'll put in this weekend. Hopefully it will be the happy medium.
Another thing is, it all depends on how efficient your cooling system is
too. Plugged up too small radiator, no shroud with a $20 flex fan and
you're gonna run warm. 

Omega Man


At 07:25 PM 5/31/99 -0500, you wrote:
>YEs it would. With a 180 degree thermostat the car will not run cooler than
>180 degrees. This is because the thermostat opens at that temperature. So
>you car usually runs another 20 deg. more. So 200 degrees is about right.
>With a 160* thermostat it should run 180*.
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
>----------
>> From: Igor Todorovic <igor455@home.com>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: 160 deg. VS. 180 deg
>> Date: Monday, May 31, 1999 5:26 PM
>> 
>> Will switching from a 180 high-flow thermostat to 160 high-flow make a
>> difference and when/where.  Thanks.
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 08:57:54 -0500
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
Subject: Re: Headers, Yet another Question (from a different guy)

they are slightly louder due to the thinner tubing but when sealed properly
they arent too much louder as far as performance gains do the carb setup
first, then take advantage of the gains from the headers first.....KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
To: oldsmobile mailinglist <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 1999 6:37 AM
Subject: Headers, Yet another Question (from a different guy)


>
>   Ok, I have to ask a question about headers now.  How much louder are
> they as compared to stock manifolds, or is that just a myth?  I want to
> get a set for my '70 cutlass 'S' 350.  Also, what's better to do first,
> upgrade my stock 2bbl setup (intake and carb) for a 4bbl setup or do
> the exhaust thing?
>
>   TIA,
>     Stefan
>     1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
>     70Cutlass@Beer.com
>
>
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 09:01:55 -0500
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
Subject: Re: Headers (Do or Dont)

have to jump in here I have been racing for a few years and if you make a
good exhaust to compliment the headers you should never "need" to disconnect
em to get faster what I would recommend is a 2 and a half inch pipe (header
to muffler)then a Walker race magnum muffler,
then 2.25" tail pipes...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: James L. Brownfield <olzracer@peaknet.net>
To: Olds Digest <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 31, 1999 11:00 PM
Subject: Headers (Do or Dont)


> Igor,
>
> I cant tell you that headers will help your car, but I can tell you what
> helped my car.
> I had headers and a short exhaust system, walker turbos that dumped just
> behind them.
>
> I always raced this car with the exhaust on, till one day I dropped
> exhaust and went from running 13.30s to 12.60s.
>
> I never thought that my car had enough restriction in the exhaust system
> to cause THAT much of a power loss.
>
> There's a Delta that runs once in a while at my track that runs 13.70s
> in street trim, 4 door at that.
>
> There's my two cents.
>
> Jim
>
> 78 Cutlass Drag car
> 68 Hurst/Olds
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 10:39:26 -0400
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: No More Performer?  WAS: Wanted 455 Alum Intake

Summit has them. PAW has them. I touched one at the local speed shop
recently. They had a dozen. Let's not get on this Edelbrock scare again.
They just started making the aluminum heads. Why would they stop making the
intakes. That's stupid.

- -----Original Message-----

>At 03:10 PM 5/31/99 -0700, you wrote:
>>NICK,
>>I just purchased the last known edelbock performer aluminum intake. But i
do
>>know the DICK MILLER of DICK MILLER RACING  has one or two.
>
>What is the story on this?  Edelbrock is no longer manufacturing
Performers?
>
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -
>-------------
>Brian Ammons ICQ - 3585737
>5606 Grape b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
>Houston, TX 77096 http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
> Home: 713-776-2110
>1984 Oldsmobile Pager: 713-318-5938
> Delta 88 RB
> 4-door
>"The Party Barge"
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -
>--------------
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 09:43:17 -0500
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
Subject: Budget Buildup 455 update

Well got the 455 all in and bolted up, the dynomax headers bolted up just
fine only thing that didnt clear was the brake valve and it was relocated to
the top of the frame. The car started on the first try and zoomed straight
to 4000 RPM the idle was reduced to 2000 Rpm for cam breakin, the Lunati
BracketmasterII Cam has a very nasty Idle it sounds like a true manual trans
W-30 (well almost) the first turn around the block revealed that Desktop
Dyno may yet prove to be accurate, because it sure feels like it has 550
ftlbs at 3500 and since the tires spun anyway
well it seemed to want to go so I let it see what it would do and the tach
hit 6500 in about 2 seconds and I backed out of it to prevent engine damage.
A few more minutes of running and
and it was revealed that the thermostat (a new one) was bad and didnt feel
like opening so it was removed. A delco stat will be installed in its place.
the engine runs at 160 with no stat but an extended drive bumps the temp up
to 200 and a leak in the radiator presented itself for my disapproval, New
Radiator will be next probably a griffin, at this time I would like to
acknowledge the people who lent their time and knowledge to this project,
Steve and Matt at Car Quest auto parts in Grandview MO, Kevin at K&M
Performance Machine in Raytown MO, Lee at Midwest Undercar Warehouse in
Kansas City MO, Kerry & Matt at Smith Enterprises Machine Shop in Kansas
City MO, and of course the Cars a 69 442 and a 71 custom cruiser station
wagon who gave up its life for the 442
For anyone in the Kansas City area I wholeheartedly recommend all these
companies they do excellent work and are very knowledgable in their fields,
except that Kerry guy he doesnt do production machine work any more and he
is me...KK

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 10:49:44 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: Custom Kick Panels w/ built in speakers?

There is a product on the market called "Q-Forms" that you can purchase
through Crutchfield, 1-800-955-3000. These are custom built duel speaker
kick panels that are produced in colors to match the stock interior of many
cars. They list for $199.95 a pair.

The Olds G-body unit is part # "044K101112".You need to call to order the
color matching your interior.

The Olds A-body doesn't have a custom fit unit in this model line. However
they offer a universal version part # 044U50011 for $119.95 that are
trimable to fit. You need to call to assess sizes for the best fit and
color.

I don't know of any other company producing speaker kick panels at this
time. Though there may be others, this may at least be an info start. For
those with a catalog it's page 54. I couldn't locate them on there web site.
Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse

ICQ# 5209322
Email: gjcouse@francomm.com
Web: http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

- -------------------------------------------------------------------
Like FREE Money? Just go to
http://alladvantage.com/go.asp?refid=AQE115
Members are paid for their own Web browsing
($.50 per Hour) and for referrals. Please tell all
of your friends about this program as possible.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
                               -------
                             / Q  Q \
                -----0000---\/---0000-----

Subject: Custom Kick Panels w/ built in speakers?


>
>   Anybody know if there is a place that makes custom kick panels with
> built in speakers for a 70 Cutlass?  A buddy of mine got a set for a 57
> Chebby and, since then, I REALLY want a set.  The problem is that I
> can't find them anywhere.  Do these exist?
>
> Stefan
> 1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
> 70Cutlass@Beer.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 07:53:59 -0700
From: tarzan@foxinternet.net
Subject: Re: No More Performer?  WAS: Wanted 455 Alum Intake

ALL RIGHT PEOPLE!
Here is the deal on the performer intakes. i called every major auto
parts dealer, one of the local parts dealers called edelbrock (with me
on the line) and they told us that they would be out of stock until the
started to produce them again in late july/august. then called
jegs,summit etc. only summit had the performer intake for the 455.
Summit told me that when i ordered the intake how lucky i was cause it
was there last one in stock. Since i did a very extensive search on
finding the intake i thought i would pass along what i had found.

Like i said though earlier, dick miller racing has one or two brand new
performer intakes.Atleast he did about a month a go. his number is
901-794-2834. he is very easy to deal with and has a ton of knowledge
and parts available for our 442s.

Hope this clears up the panic i started, i was just trying to help
someone who was looking for an intake.DAN

Oldsfire@aol.com wrote:

> According to there 1999 catalog they still are!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 11:09:35 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Good Transmission Shops in D.C.--more info

Sounds like your clutches have met their life span. How does reverse feel?

Omega Man




At 06:55 PM 5/30/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>
>Sorry, but I neglected some pertinent info.  The car in question is the
>Cutlass in my signature block below.  Also, when I said it seemed to be
>"okay" when I fiddled with the gear shift, I mean the transmission seemed to
>resume normal operation.  Again, this may only be coincidence.  I noticed
>the same problem earlier the same night when going down a hill.  I was
>coasting down the hill, then tried to accelerate down the hill, but the
>engine just revved...no pull.  Within seconds it was okay.  Sorry for having
>to put in an addendum.  Thanks, again.
>
>> Hello All,
>>
>> Well, I went cruisin' last night.  No road warrior stuff, just smooth
>> cruisin'.  Anyhow, as I'm doing about 55, I decelerated to merge, then
>> accelerated again to get into the lane I wanted.  As I accelerated
>> again, the car felts like it's only sorta pulling...the engine just
>> revved. It's like the tranny was in neutral, but I didn't hear any
>> unusual noises, feel any strange  vibrations...nothing.  Just minimal
>> forward pull.  Well, I fiddled with the gear shift (column mount) and it
>> seemed to be okay.  That may be coincidence, though.
>>
>> Well, I checked the transmission fluid today, and it was a bit
>> dark...not brown, but not the fresh red color, either.
>>
>> So, in the event my transmission has burnt, who knows of a reputable
>> transmission shop in the D.C. area.  I do not have time to fix it
>> myself.  In fact, I'll barely have time to just pull the transmission.
>> I appreciate any advice, both regarding a good shop, or other things to
>> check.  Thanks, ya'll
>
>--
>Thomas P. Smith
>  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/dual exhaust/
>        sometimes Q-Jet, sometimes Holley/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
>  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 11:11:50 -0400
From: Doug Ahern <doug@mail.RATH.PeachNet.EDU>
Subject: Re: Bad Olds day

On Mon, May 31, 1999 at 09:04:24PM -0400, Zitoj@aol.com wrote:
> Question, if the motor frees up with the ATF, will it be OK or am I going to 
> need to have her opened up and worked on??

depends on the condition of the oil at the time you put it up.  if the oil
was clean, everything will probably be okay.  if it was dirty, the oil rings
maybe sticky or sludged up.  most likely, they are okay seeing as it only
had 2k miles on it.  I would recommend changing the oil,  and pre-oiling the
engine while turning the engine over with a socket/wrench (might need a long 
wrench/breaker bar.  This will pre-oil cam bearings, main bearings, and get
some oil to your lifters as well...

I would use a mechanical oil pressure gauge (perhaps temporarily) to enusre
oil pressure once the engine starts...

your gasoline has probably broken down and turned to really really
nasty smelling varnish crap.  you'll need to drain the tank and maybe
have it cleaned ($30 or so at a radiator/gas tank center...)  if there was
gas in your carb (most likely), it too has 'soured'.  I would pull the carb,
drain it, disassemble it down to the float bowls and use spray can carb 
cleaner to to clean out all the junk,  change the fuel filter, and if you
want to put off cleaning the tank until you see it run, run a 3' gas 
rubber hose form the fuel pump to a gas can (like the the 2 gallon can
you bought the last time you ran out of gas...) on the floor under the 
bumper.

check coolant level. too.   I recently did this with a Dodge that had
been sitting for 7-8 years...  the engine was so sludged up that although
I got it running, the oil pickup was sludged so  that oil pressure would
not develop. but it ran!  I didn't have an ignition key, so I ran a jumper
wire between the 12v+ ballast resistor IGN side to the battery and shorted
the starter solenoid with a screw driver.

good luck,  take your time...

Doug Ahern

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 11:22:18 -0700
From: CHUCK SAVAGE <CSAVAGE@AMADA.NET>
Subject: RE: Cool Can (How to???)

 I have a moroso cool can paid $70.00. I went to fuel injection and it will 
not handle the high press so i had to take it out make me an offer





> I am thinking about building a cool can for my 455 for the fuel.  Anyone
> have any ideas on how to build one of these things and so on.  I really
know
> very little about them.  Thanks.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 11:16:43 -0400
From: "mAIL" <nicka@localnet.com>
Subject: Re: Budget Buildup 455 update

Hi:
I'M also doing a budget build up on a 455.  Bottom end is ok. Looking for
tips to do top end. Also what model  Dyno max headers did you use?
Thanks-Nick
- -----Original Message-----
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, June 01, 1999 10:47 AM
Subject: Budget Buildup 455 update


>Well got the 455 all in and bolted up, the dynomax headers bolted up just
>fine only thing that didnt clear was the brake valve and it was relocated
to
>the top of the frame. The car started on the first try and zoomed straight
>to 4000 RPM the idle was reduced to 2000 Rpm for cam breakin, the Lunati
>BracketmasterII Cam has a very nasty Idle it sounds like a true manual
trans
>W-30 (well almost) the first turn around the block revealed that Desktop
>Dyno may yet prove to be accurate, because it sure feels like it has 550
>ftlbs at 3500 and since the tires spun anyway
>well it seemed to want to go so I let it see what it would do and the tach
>hit 6500 in about 2 seconds and I backed out of it to prevent engine
damage.
>A few more minutes of running and
>and it was revealed that the thermostat (a new one) was bad and didnt feel
>like opening so it was removed. A delco stat will be installed in its
place.
>the engine runs at 160 with no stat but an extended drive bumps the temp up
>to 200 and a leak in the radiator presented itself for my disapproval, New
>Radiator will be next probably a griffin, at this time I would like to
>acknowledge the people who lent their time and knowledge to this project,
>Steve and Matt at Car Quest auto parts in Grandview MO, Kevin at K&M
>Performance Machine in Raytown MO, Lee at Midwest Undercar Warehouse in
>Kansas City MO, Kerry & Matt at Smith Enterprises Machine Shop in Kansas
>City MO, and of course the Cars a 69 442 and a 71 custom cruiser station
>wagon who gave up its life for the 442
>For anyone in the Kansas City area I wholeheartedly recommend all these
>companies they do excellent work and are very knowledgable in their fields,
>except that Kerry guy he doesnt do production machine work any more and he
>is me...KK
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 08:26:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Weekend fun

Hey list! 

Just wanted to tell my story about my weekend! I took
advantage of what little time I had (graduations were
this weekend) to work on my front suspension. It took
me the better part of the day to take everything off.
That was with a few runs out to my parents place for
different tools. I didn't have a spring compressor
but, I did do this. Someone had once recomended using
a cable in where the shock absorber would go just in
case the spring did let go. I used a piece of re-bar
instead. This worked extremely well. I also learned
that 30 year old balljoints don't seperate easily. I
had the pickle fork in there and was beating on it
with a 20 Oz. hammer. Here's a hint, if it doesn't
split loose, either get a bigger hammer OR DON'T HOLD
ON TO THE PICKLE FORK WHEN HAMMERING! I was getting
ticked so I took one HUGE swing, ended up missing the
fork and nailed my hand. It is still tender and this
happened on Saturday. I got a tire hammer (kinda like
a sledge) and whacked it once and it finally let
loose. Everything else came apart amazingly well.
(Another hint, soak everything in WD-40 a good month
in advance, applying every time you are in the garage)
The bushings were amazingly easy to push out also. I
went out to my parents where there is a 3 ton press.
We did the upper ones first. Supported the "Y" with a
piece of pipe and then pressed on the shaft. We put a
bolt in the shaft hole to help aid in pushing the
bushing out. We used the same press for the lower
balljoints. The lower A-arm bushings we got
experimental on. We took one of those really tiny
hydralic jacks and placed it inside the arm. put the
arm in the vise so that it wouldn't spread the "Y"
apart. This worked out great! I got em back home and
cleaned up. Now I am ready to press the new ones in
and get ready to paint everything up. 

I have one question though. Everyone has talked about
making sure to grease the polyurethane bushings before
assembly. My question is this.....WHERE???? After very
careful inspection of the bushings, I would have to
try to get the metal sleeve out and grease the area
between the inner metal sleeve and the bushing and
then try to get it back in there. Is this what
everyone was talking about? And if so, HOW THE HECK DO
YOU GET THAT SLEEVE OUT OF THERE?

Del

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 11:32:57 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: 42 Volt systems coming

In a message dated 99-05-31 12:07:46 EDT, you write:

<<  I envision $2000 repair bills for such a task. >>


Not unrealistic as the flywheel-pinion wear (full-time contact to power 
alternator/generator as well) will be such that the contact surface will 
require oiling. Making this an ~internal~ component.


"Car won't start? I just pull apart your engine and have a peek at the 
starter......"

Be afraid.
Be very afraid.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 11:55:11 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Jetstar 88 was: Sunday night musings

In a message dated 99-05-31 10:02:28 EDT, you write:

<< Karl and list,
     A friend of mine has a '64 Jetstar 88 that he is looking to get rid of.  
It
 is a 2 door hard top, 330 2bbl, Jetaway, 3.08 gears (open), has extra tail 
lights
 and trim.  The body is rough (paint fading right off of it) but would make a 
good
 parts car from a mechanicals stand point (runs great!). >>

Er, that last also applies to Soylent Ocean Mist.

Karl of the Urban Legendary deep pockets would love another Oldsmobile money 
pit, but is already committed (yes, he is certifiable....) to doubling the 
desperately needed garage space due to a previous commitment.

But thanks for thinking of us.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 12:03:03 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Good Transmission Shops in D.C.--more info

Gene Gilpin wrote:

> Sounds like your clutches have met their life span. How does reverse feel?
>
> Omega Man
>

Reverse is good.  Shifting is good.  First, second and third gear are all
~usually~good.  I've only noticed the problem intermittently, and just very
recently...and, so far, only in third gear..  Could the problem be the torque
converter?  That'd be cheaper than a new tranny.  As far as tranny is 
concerned,
a guy at work offered to sell me the TH350 that was in his '68 Firebird.  Are
there any tailshaft, or other, differences I should be concerned about there?
Sorry for these somewhat naive questions, but automatic transmissions (I've
always had manual transmissions before now) and body work are my two weakest
automotive areas.  I do appreciate any advice from anyone.  Thanks

- --
Thomas P. Smith
  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/dual exhaust/
        sometimes Q-Jet, sometimes Holley/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 12:36:12 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Olds Power Indy.

Speaking if Indy. How about the poor guy that was leading the race and ran
out of gas on the last lap. Talk about your picnic smelling like urine!

Omega Man



>> Wow, In Kenny Breck's (winner 1999 Indy) race ending statement he thanked
>> Olds Power in his speech. What drive line could they be possibly using? I
>> didn't think Olds was involved in any professional racing.  Great race,
>now
>> it's Olds time, off for a ride.   Gary....
>>
>> -----Regards,
>>
>> Gary J. Couse
>>
>> ICQ# 5209322
>> Email: gjcouse@francomm.com
>> Web: http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
>>
>> -------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Like FREE Money? Just go to
>> http://alladvantage.com/go.asp?refid=AQE115
>> Members are paid for their own Web browsing
>> ($.50 per Hour) and for referrals. Please tell all
>> of your friends about this program as possible.
>> -------------------------------------------------------------------
>>                                -------
>>                              / Q  Q \
>>                 -----0000---\/---0000-----
>>
>>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 13:06:21 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: Headers, Yet another Question (from a different guy)

Sometimes it will even quite the car down do to the smoother flow of 
air...especially with flowmaster mufflers...thats what happened on my 69 
Vista Cruiser when I first put duals on with flowmaster it was real loud and 
when I put hedman headers on the car tone was quiter....Hot Rod Harry....

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 13:09:42 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: Headers (Do or Dont)

Have to jump in too....65 cutlass with 425..headers , duals ,2 
1/2inch...flowmaster...2 1/2 inch tailpipes...even an H pipe and the car 
turned 13.0s.... and with the headers open she went 12.60s....Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 13:47:55 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmogrumbling

Just a possibilty, but did you put new spark plug wires on it? Perhaps you
got 2 switched by accident. I always get 5 and 7 backwards on my SBCs.
It'll run, but not right. Check your firing order and wire positions.

Omega Man



At 09:06 AM 5/30/99 -0400, you wrote:
><sigh>
>
>Did a tune-up on the Delta yesterday. Runs worse than before. Makes clunking
>noises and shakes at idle. Gotta do it all over again and see what I did
>wrong.
>
>Why did Olds make the spark plug access so tight? The plug socket gets
>jammed against the head casting, and you can't tell when it's torqued
>properly. PMRO (P*sses Me Right Off).
>
>And that damn A.I.R. "diverter" valve hangin' over the right side is just
>_totally_ in the way. Has anybody relocated that thing somewhere that makes
>sense? Grrrr...
>
>Guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow.....
>
>drc
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 13:01:10 -0500
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
Subject: Re: Budget Buildup 455 update

I used the painted models B5029 as I said this is a budget deal, the intake
is stock 400 69 cast iron the heads are original 400 C heads, they have not
been ported yet, I want to see what it does as is then work the heads with
P&P, seperated crossover blocked center exhaust ports and polished stainless
valves, and hardened seats, the carb is currently a quadrajet, but I will
test just about all of em if I can find em to try holleys quads and carters,
delco fuel pump is currently in use, as well as points distributor(I want to
try the CC race test for the 68 HO)
the cam is a lunati Bracketmaster 2 496/520 224/234@.050 very wicked idle
the power band is 2500 - 5500 but will perform testing as soon as it is
broken in this will also be a synthetic only engine just for the sake of
saving the dinosaurs, when it is all finished I will try to post photos of
the engine for you guys to view. nice looking plant...KK



> Hi:
> I'M also doing a budget build up on a 455.  Bottom end is ok. Looking for
> tips to do top end. Also what model  Dyno max headers did you use?
> Thanks-Nick

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 12:25:30 -0500
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
Subject: Re: Headers (Do or Dont)

gotta add to this uncorked my chevelle and there wasnt a .02 second
difference in quarter times and I believe Rob Thomas turned a slower ET with
open headers......KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 1999 9:01 AM
Subject: Re: Headers (Do or Dont)


> have to jump in here I have been racing for a few years and if you make a
> good exhaust to compliment the headers you should never "need" to
disconnect
> em to get faster what I would recommend is a 2 and a half inch pipe
(header
> to muffler)then a Walker race magnum muffler,
> then 2.25" tail pipes...KK
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: James L. Brownfield <olzracer@peaknet.net>
> To: Olds Digest <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Monday, May 31, 1999 11:00 PM
> Subject: Headers (Do or Dont)
>
>
> > Igor,
> >
> > I cant tell you that headers will help your car, but I can tell you what
> > helped my car.
> > I had headers and a short exhaust system, walker turbos that dumped just
> > behind them.
> >
> > I always raced this car with the exhaust on, till one day I dropped
> > exhaust and went from running 13.30s to 12.60s.
> >
> > I never thought that my car had enough restriction in the exhaust system
> > to cause THAT much of a power loss.
> >
> > There's a Delta that runs once in a while at my track that runs 13.70s
> > in street trim, 4 door at that.
> >
> > There's my two cents.
> >
> > Jim
> >
> > 78 Cutlass Drag car
> > 68 Hurst/Olds
> >
> >
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 14:17:03 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Good Transmission Shops in D.C.--more info

Sounds to me like your forward clutch packs are on their last leg. Telltail
signs are slipping in high gear and dark, burnt smelling fluid. It'll only
get worse. If you took it apart you'll probably find the metal plates
between the clutch discs to be a pretty shade of heat tempered blue, not to
mention clutch discs with no clutch left. Doesn't sound like a converter
problem. TH350s and 400s aren't all that difficult to rebuild. You'll only
need a light duty press to compact the springs in the clutch packs to
remove the snap ring. I afro-engineered one out of a bench mounted drill
press(without the drill) and 2 bolts. Of course that was along time ago and
my tool selection has grown since then. Just get a good manual or video
(less than $20 each. JC whitney sells them) and a rebuild kit and set aside
a weekend. I got a full rebuild kit and shift kit for a TH400 for less than
$80. I've found the videos to be invaluable referance materials for first
timmers. If you ask me, $100 and a learning experience sounds better than
paying someone else $500-$700 to do it for you. 

Omega Man
'74 Omega S 455/auto
'74 Omega 455/4spd (someday)




At 12:03 PM 6/1/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>
>Gene Gilpin wrote:
>
>> Sounds like your clutches have met their life span. How does reverse feel?
>>
>> Omega Man
>>
>
>Reverse is good.  Shifting is good.  First, second and third gear are all
>~usually~good.  I've only noticed the problem intermittently, and just very
>recently...and, so far, only in third gear..  Could the problem be the torque
>converter?  That'd be cheaper than a new tranny.  As far as tranny is
concerned,
>a guy at work offered to sell me the TH350 that was in his '68 Firebird.  Are
>there any tailshaft, or other, differences I should be concerned about there?
>Sorry for these somewhat naive questions, but automatic transmissions (I've
>always had manual transmissions before now) and body work are my two weakest
>automotive areas.  I do appreciate any advice from anyone.  Thanks
>
>--
>Thomas P. Smith
>  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/dual exhaust/
>        sometimes Q-Jet, sometimes Holley/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
>  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 14:23:51 -0400
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Memorial Day Fun

Worked on the '75 all day Monday. Put the rear end back in it. Did it by
myself. WHAT A PAIN IN THE BUTT! I am sore all over. Learned a lot though.

I was installing Southside Machine's Lift Bars and upper control arms. The
Lift Bars have no bushings whatsoever. They have a steel sleeve through a
nylon(?) or maybe urethane sleeve with a grease fitting. The Upper control
arms are the same at the frame end with polyurethane bushings at the
pumpkin. The reason I describe this setup is because it was a bear to
install. See, rubber bushings and the stamped arms give you lots of
flexibility to line up holes. This setup gives NO side to side flexibility.
This means I would get three arms bolted and couldn't get the third. In
addition to this I was installing new springs. I would try to raise the rear
end high enough to get the upper arm holes to line up but the new springs
would start to lift the car off the jackstands (argh!).

I finally had to install the uppers without the springs. Now I have to get a
spring compressor that works from the outside of the spring to get them in.

I spent 5 stinkin' hours playing around with this thing and I'm still not
quite done. I normally enjoy wrenching on the car. But not this time. It
would have been a lot better (easier) if I'd had a buddy to work with. The
problem is, I'm a pastor. Who wants to work on a car with a pastor. What do
you say when you smash your finger? Go . . . sh  Da . . . r n  it? Sh . . .
oot! Oh well.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 14:30:49 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: two 1950 olds for sale

Located in NJ. Both are deluxe 50 sedans. One has 40,000 orig miles, the 
other 61,000 orig miles. Very little rust all there + extra parts. The guy 
who owns them is a friend of mine, and a fellow Olds nut. He is moving from a 
home to an apartment and has no room. He's asking  $7000 for the pair. This 
is the first time they've been offered. If anyone is interested, you can 
e-mail me. I've seen bith cars. BTW, there's nothing in it for me. would like 
to see them find good homes.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 14:36:22 EDT
From: Harrell17@aol.com
Subject: Re: No More Performer?  WAS: Wanted 455 Alum Intake

I just purchased one about 3 weeks ago for my 72 455. It looks good ,costs 
$203., and Jeg's didn't say anything about it being the last one made. A call 
to Edelbrock should tell the tale.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 15:18:24 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Weekend fun

Do not remove the Bushing from the shell!!!!!.   The grease is for the metal
sleave to help insert it and for the ends of the bushings.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
To: Oldsmobile E-mail Ring <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 1999 11:26 AM
Subject: Weekend fun


> Hey list!
>
> Just wanted to tell my story about my weekend! I took
> advantage of what little time I had (graduations were
> this weekend) to work on my front suspension. It took
> me the better part of the day to take everything off.
> That was with a few runs out to my parents place for
> different tools. I didn't have a spring compressor
> but, I did do this. Someone had once recomended using
> a cable in where the shock absorber would go just in
> case the spring did let go. I used a piece of re-bar
> instead. This worked extremely well. I also learned
> that 30 year old balljoints don't seperate easily. I
> had the pickle fork in there and was beating on it
> with a 20 Oz. hammer. Here's a hint, if it doesn't
> split loose, either get a bigger hammer OR DON'T HOLD
> ON TO THE PICKLE FORK WHEN HAMMERING! I was getting
> ticked so I took one HUGE swing, ended up missing the
> fork and nailed my hand. It is still tender and this
> happened on Saturday. I got a tire hammer (kinda like
> a sledge) and whacked it once and it finally let
> loose. Everything else came apart amazingly well.
> (Another hint, soak everything in WD-40 a good month
> in advance, applying every time you are in the garage)
> The bushings were amazingly easy to push out also. I
> went out to my parents where there is a 3 ton press.
> We did the upper ones first. Supported the "Y" with a
> piece of pipe and then pressed on the shaft. We put a
> bolt in the shaft hole to help aid in pushing the
> bushing out. We used the same press for the lower
> balljoints. The lower A-arm bushings we got
> experimental on. We took one of those really tiny
> hydralic jacks and placed it inside the arm. put the
> arm in the vise so that it wouldn't spread the "Y"
> apart. This worked out great! I got em back home and
> cleaned up. Now I am ready to press the new ones in
> and get ready to paint everything up.
>
> I have one question though. Everyone has talked about
> making sure to grease the polyurethane bushings before
> assembly. My question is this.....WHERE???? After very
> careful inspection of the bushings, I would have to
> try to get the metal sleeve out and grease the area
> between the inner metal sleeve and the bushing and
> then try to get it back in there. Is this what
> everyone was talking about? And if so, HOW THE HECK DO
> YOU GET THAT SLEEVE OUT OF THERE?
>
> Del
>
> ===
> Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> rockman20@yahoo.com
> 1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
> 1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
> 1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
> (I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 12:22:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Weekend fun

The metal sleeve is already in the bushing. It goes
like this. Metal shell, polyurethane, small metal
sleeve. The bolt goes through this small metal sleeve.
Now, from my inspection, the pivot point should not be
in that sleeve. It should actually twist the urethane.
Maybe I am just really confused though. *scratching
head* Also.....just regular grease will work for the
balljoints and the tierod ends correct? I don't need
to purchase a special bottle of grease do I?

- --- steve harris <meso@pamlico.net> wrote:
> Do not remove the Bushing from the shell!!!!!.   The
> grease is for the metal
> sleave to help insert it and for the ends of the
> bushings.
> meso@pamlico.net
> Steve
> North Carolina
> ICQ#26466860
> http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 14:48:46 -0500 
From: "Johnson, Samuel" <SJohnso6@allstate.com>
Subject: RE: No More Performer?  WAS: Wanted 455 Alum Intake

I was told that they were going to stop making these Intake last year.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca [SMTP:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca]
> Sent:	Tuesday, June 01, 1999 1:36 PM
> To:	Harrell17@aol.com; oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	Re: No More Performer?  WAS: Wanted 455 Alum Intake
> 
> I just purchased one about 3 weeks ago for my 72 455. It looks good ,costs
> 
> $203., and Jeg's didn't say anything about it being the last one made. A
> call 
> to Edelbrock should tell the tale.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 15:04:42 -0500 
From: "Johnson, Samuel" <SJohnso6@allstate.com>
Subject: Windshield vs. Rocks

I had a little rock hit my windshield and cause a little crack.  What can I
use to make sure that the little crack doesn't become a big crack.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 13:08:32 -0700
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: Windshield vs. Rocks

"Johnson, Samuel" wrote:

> I had a little rock hit my windshield and cause a little crack.  What can I
> use to make sure that the little crack doesn't become a big crack.

A new windshield!  :-)  Just kidding!

I have been wondering about this too.  How about sand pitted
windshields?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 15:20:50 -0500 
From: Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com
Subject: RE: Windshield vs. Rocks

Our insurance company (Allstate) pays to have the epoxy type fill-in
repair made to our windshield when this happens.  It can only repair up
to a certain size chip or crack but so far it has worked on at least 3
or four occasions (all on my daily drivers).  The repair company will
come to where ever you are and fix it in the parking lot.

Mickey
'68 Cutlass "S" Conv

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Chris Sparks [SMTP:mrada@catalina-inter.net]
> Sent:	Tuesday, June 01, 1999 3:09 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	Re: Windshield vs. Rocks
> 
> "Johnson, Samuel" wrote:
> 
> > I had a little rock hit my windshield and cause a little crack.
> What can I
> > use to make sure that the little crack doesn't become a big crack.
> 
> A new windshield!  :-)  Just kidding!
> 
> I have been wondering about this too.  How about sand pitted
> windshields?
> 
> Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 15:26:53 -0500 
From: "Johnson, Samuel" <SJohnso6@allstate.com>
Subject: RE: Windshield vs. Rocks

Hey,  I work for Allstate.  Don't have them for Car Insurance though.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca [SMTP:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca]
> Sent:	Tuesday, June 01, 1999 3:20 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca; Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com
> Subject:	RE: Windshield vs. Rocks
> 
> Our insurance company (Allstate) pays to have the epoxy type fill-in
> repair made to our windshield when this happens.  It can only repair up
> to a certain size chip or crack but so far it has worked on at least 3
> or four occasions (all on my daily drivers).  The repair company will
> come to where ever you are and fix it in the parking lot.
> 
> Mickey
> '68 Cutlass "S" Conv
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:	Chris Sparks [SMTP:mrada@catalina-inter.net]
> > Sent:	Tuesday, June 01, 1999 3:09 PM
> > To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject:	Re: Windshield vs. Rocks
> > 
> > "Johnson, Samuel" wrote:
> > 
> > > I had a little rock hit my windshield and cause a little crack.
> > What can I
> > > use to make sure that the little crack doesn't become a big crack.
> > 
> > A new windshield!  :-)  Just kidding!
> > 
> > I have been wondering about this too.  How about sand pitted
> > windshields?
> > 
> > Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 15:46:01 -0500 
From: Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com
Subject: RE: Windshield vs. Rocks

would you like to volunteer why?

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Johnson, Samuel [SMTP:SJohnso6@allstate.com]
> Sent:	Tuesday, June 01, 1999 3:27 PM
> To:	'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject:	RE: Windshield vs. Rocks
> 
> Hey,  I work for Allstate.  Don't have them for Car Insurance though.
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> [SMTP:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca]
> > Sent:	Tuesday, June 01, 1999 3:20 PM
> > To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca; Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com
> > Subject:	RE: Windshield vs. Rocks
> > 
> > Our insurance company (Allstate) pays to have the epoxy type fill-in
> > repair made to our windshield when this happens.  It can only repair
> up
> > to a certain size chip or crack but so far it has worked on at least
> 3
> > or four occasions (all on my daily drivers).  The repair company
> will
> > come to where ever you are and fix it in the parking lot.
> > 
> > Mickey
> > '68 Cutlass "S" Conv
> > 
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From:	Chris Sparks [SMTP:mrada@catalina-inter.net]
> > > Sent:	Tuesday, June 01, 1999 3:09 PM
> > > To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > > Subject:	Re: Windshield vs. Rocks
> > > 
> > > "Johnson, Samuel" wrote:
> > > 
> > > > I had a little rock hit my windshield and cause a little crack.
> > > What can I
> > > > use to make sure that the little crack doesn't become a big
> crack.
> > > 
> > > A new windshield!  :-)  Just kidding!
> > > 
> > > I have been wondering about this too.  How about sand pitted
> > > windshields?
> > > 
> > > Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 15:46:04 -0500 
From: "Johnson, Samuel" <SJohnso6@allstate.com>
Subject: RE: Windshield vs. Rocks

Volunteer to do what?

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca [SMTP:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca]
> Sent:	Tuesday, June 01, 1999 3:46 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca; Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com
> Subject:	RE: Windshield vs. Rocks
> 
> would you like to volunteer why?
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:	Johnson, Samuel [SMTP:SJohnso6@allstate.com]
> > Sent:	Tuesday, June 01, 1999 3:27 PM
> > To:	'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> > Subject:	RE: Windshield vs. Rocks
> > 
> > Hey,  I work for Allstate.  Don't have them for Car Insurance though.
> > 
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > [SMTP:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca]
> > > Sent:	Tuesday, June 01, 1999 3:20 PM
> > > To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca; Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com
> > > Subject:	RE: Windshield vs. Rocks
> > > 
> > > Our insurance company (Allstate) pays to have the epoxy type fill-in
> > > repair made to our windshield when this happens.  It can only repair
> > up
> > > to a certain size chip or crack but so far it has worked on at least
> > 3
> > > or four occasions (all on my daily drivers).  The repair company
> > will
> > > come to where ever you are and fix it in the parking lot.
> > > 
> > > Mickey
> > > '68 Cutlass "S" Conv
> > > 
> > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > From:	Chris Sparks [SMTP:mrada@catalina-inter.net]
> > > > Sent:	Tuesday, June 01, 1999 3:09 PM
> > > > To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > > > Subject:	Re: Windshield vs. Rocks
> > > > 
> > > > "Johnson, Samuel" wrote:
> > > > 
> > > > > I had a little rock hit my windshield and cause a little crack.
> > > > What can I
> > > > > use to make sure that the little crack doesn't become a big
> > crack.
> > > > 
> > > > A new windshield!  :-)  Just kidding!
> > > > 
> > > > I have been wondering about this too.  How about sand pitted
> > > > windshields?
> > > > 
> > > > Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 14:30:07 PDT
From: "Ioannis Kouramanis" <kourama@hotmail.com>
Subject: Convertible top question

I have a '72 2-door convertible delta 88.

There is this 3/16" thick rod (wire) that goes into the convertible
roof, and passes through a hole into the area where the rear window
moves up and down. This rod interferes with the operation of
the window. There one on the driver's side is missing.

Q1: What the heck is that for? It's thick and stiff enough to be a
part of a frame or something, but what is it doing going inside the
window?

Q2: can I safely remove it? I figure I can since there isn't one on
the drivers side.

I have tried pulling on it, and I think I could extract it with some
patience, but what really puzzles me is what the heck it's function
is.

BTW: I've ordered a form to order the shop manual, so hopefully I
can answer my own questions soon, but I need to get this silly thing
fixed in order to cert. the car and put it on the road.

Thanks.


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 17:38:50 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Weekend fun

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 1999 3:22 PM
Subject: Re: Weekend fun


> The metal sleeve is already in the bushing. It goes
> like this. Metal shell, polyurethane, small metal
> sleeve. The bolt goes through this small metal sleeve.
> Now, from my inspection, the pivot point should not be
> in that sleeve. It should actually twist the urethane.
> Maybe I am just really confused though. *scratching
> head* Also.....just regular grease will work for the
> balljoints and the tierod ends correct? I don't need
> to purchase a special bottle of grease do I?
>
Yes that is correct.  You can use regular grease for the ball joints etc.
you use the white grease from the kit to cover the ends of the bushings.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 17:30:08 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Need a Transmission.

Okay, some of ya'll have seen my transmission woes goin' on here.  The
trans currently on my car is not original or correct.   So, maybe I can
correct several things at once, along with the larger cause of getting
an operative transmission.  Here's what I want to do:

I'd like a 1971 Olds TH350, code LA.  Ready to use is preferable, but
the Omega Man has given me reason to believe a rebuild can be a good
experience.  So, if anyone has one that's rebuildable, I'll consider
that, too.

I am located in Wash D.C. I'll travel anywhere within a 200 mile radius
to pick up a trans.  If anyone has anything, e-mail me privately and
we'll hammer out the details.  Thanks.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/Q-Jet/
                         dual exhaust//Mallory Unilite Conversion.
  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 17:35:46 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Headers (Do or Dont)

The new Car Craft flamed Oldsmobiles however they do have an excellent
article about headers.

Mark Hahn

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 17:17:58 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Fake W30 Opinions

One thing I find kind of funny is that I once seen a a guy who was
commenting on 2 Olds' that were next to each other. One was a 71 442 W-30
convertible. It was a true documented 442 W-30 car. The body was not in the
best of shape and the interior had rips. The motor was old, leaky and ran
bad. The trans & rearend needed a rebuild not to mention the front end
which was original needed to be rebuilt. The other car was a 72 442
convertible with the W-30 emblem and stripes. The car was a true 442 but a
fake W-30 car. The car had a beautiful paint job. The interior was like
new. The motor, trans and rearend were all new and rebuilt FAR BETTER than
the factory could of in 72. 

The guy observing both cars knew the 72 was not a true W-30. The comment
that got me going was him saying that in 72 the 442 was an option, not a
model, and because of that the 72 at the show was a far less performance
car. I thought to myself, yes this would be true in 72, but not now. The 72
would not only out perform the 71 in 1/4 mile times but in appearance and
safety. I brought this to his attention and the man stated that he would
rather have the 71 in the condition it was than the 72 which was redone. I
told him it would cost him $10,000 or more to get the 71 to perform and
look like the 72 now does. He had no comment afterwards. 

I also stated to him that the 72 which had the 442 "option" is the same
damn car as the 71. What is the difference in what GM called an option or a
model. The only REAL value of this is the authentic price of the 2 cars.
One may be of more $$ due to its originality. As far as driving it and
enjoying the car the 72 would be 1000 times better. I personally would
rather have a 70-72 cutlass with all the 442 "options" such as Ram-Air,
Dual Gate,high-performance 455,etc. than a 70-72 442 that had the standard
metal hood, column shifter,350 motor, etc.. The car looks better with the
ram-air hood, dual gate shifter,etc.. 

You may not win at the "olds nationals" because of the car not being
original but it sure as heck looks awesome driving down the street. What
looks better, a Plain-Jane 442 or a Cutlass decked out with all the 442
goodies? Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: John Richmond <john.richmond@home.com>
> To: Oldsmobile E-mail <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Fake W30 Opinions
> Date: Monday, May 31, 1999 9:31 PM
> 
> Just wanted your opinions on fake W-30 cars.
> I have been looking at a local car the last few days. It originally was a
> Cutlass Supreme convertible with a 350 4bbl which has been transformed
into
> a 442 W30.
> The car is in beautiful condition with OAI & correct air intake, 455,
W455
> intake manifold, rear sway bar, Dual gate shifter, cut out rear bumper
with
> chrome exhaust tips and W30 strips with W30 emblems. He says the engine
was
> just rebuilt about 3000 miles ago. He was asking $9900 he said he would
take
> $9500.
> This guy says he bought it from the guy who did the conversion a few
years
> ago and he really hasn't done anything to it since. Makes me owner if any
> maintenance has been done at all.
> I am trying to decide weather I should buy it. I guess I am at a
quandary, I
> have always looked down at fakes in the past and if I were to buy it what
> would I say I have? It really wasn't a 442 to begin with and it wants us
to
> think its not just a 442 but a W30. Would I say I have a Cutlass Supreme
> conv. with lots of installed options or say that I own a W30.
> Please write back with any opinions that can help me in my decision.
> 
> John Richmond
> john.richmond@home.com  or  jwr10@daimlerchrysler.com
> http://members.home.net/john.richmond/

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1990
*********************************

