Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1976


oldsmobile-digest        Tuesday, May 25 1999        Volume 01 : Number 1976



Re: R12 A/C System thoughts...(ramblings)
Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?
Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?
Re: Widest Tires?
Re: R12 A/C System thoughts...(ramblings)
Re: R12 A/C System thoughts...(ramblings)
Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?
RE: Intake Sealing Tricks?
Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?
Need Cool
POR-15
Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?
Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?
Re: POR-15
Date:	Mon, 24 May 1999 18:22:46 -0400
Re: WE NEED AN OLDS BIG BODY CLUB
I need heads for my olds 455
Re: conv. top conditioning?armorall?
Digester needs help!
Re: I need heads for my olds 455
Re: I need heads for my olds 455
Re: OCA Nats Meeting ?
Re: POR-15
Unread Message problem
Re: POR-15
Re: Unread Message problem
Re: POR-15
Re: WE NEED AN OLDS BIG BODY CLUB
Re: WE NEED AN OLDS BIG BODY CLUB
Re: '72 Delta 88 Royale Conv. resto question..
Re: 1111045 dist: app'n?
Re: Model Event CANCLLED ???
Re: MY CARBURATOR IS LEAKING FUEL ONTO MY INTAKE MANIF
455 Into Vista Cruiser-Manifolds & Valve Covers?
R134a conversion:  Swapping to a larger condenser
Re: 77 wont start
Re: Widest Tires?
Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?
garage floor(non-olds)
Re: 1111045 dist: app'n?
Re: 77 wont start
need info.
Transmission shift points
Re: 1111045 dist: app'n?
Re: garage floor(non-olds)
Re: Need Cool
Re: Need Cool
to guy seeking conv rear 1/4 trims
Re: 67 Cutlass vs. 97 Mustang
Re: Transmission shift points
Re: Transmission shift points
Re: garage floor(non-olds)
Re: POR-15 / Chassis Coat black
Re: POR-15
Re: R12 A/C System thoughts...(ramblings)
Re: New Website, need all your help with this one!
Re: 455 Into Vista Cruiser-Manifolds & Valve Covers?
71 D-88 Parting Out

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 16:37:58 -0400
From: "Randy Geisel" <Rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: R12 A/C System thoughts...(ramblings)

> This leads me to thinking that I would rather pay the $45.00/LB for
> R-12 and have ~great~ air conditioning, than convert an older system to
the

I think it's more of a personal preference than anything. I'm going with
R-12 for the H/O (don't want to convert it, keep it original),  I ripped the
a/c out of the Cutlass completely ( was strip toy). If I had a daily driver
and wanted a/c, then it would boil (pun intended) down to $$$$. The old 2-80
a/c works fine in PA most of the time. ;-)

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 14:18:29 -0600
From: "Jeff Newman" <newsance@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?

Hot glue works very well. Just whip  out your moms craft glue gun and go to
work! You will have to clean up a lot of the little stringy things though...

I also have heard that sacrificing a virgin over the open hood helps intake
manifolds to seal, need to try this though. Oh yeah, you gotta do it under a
full moon too.

Also to help prevent leaking, stick a bunch of those cotton balls in the
lifter valley. Just fill it up. They will soak up the oil so that it doesn't
come out of the manifold.

I have also found popsicle sticks work great as a gasket. Just sit on your
porch eating em, them when you have 20 or so, just lay em in place.

Hahaha I bet somebody somewhere has tried one of these things...

On a more serious note,those things are a bitch to seal, but a good rtv bead
usually does the trick.

On a less serious note, once I tried to substitute duct tape for a
thermostat gasket. Was hoping if I got the bolts tight enough, I could get
down to pep boys. hehe had water spweing everywhere.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, May 24, 1999 1:25 PM
Subject: Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?


>
>
>--- steve harris writes:
><snip>  TIP-use two people to place the
>manifold.<snip>
>
>Another good tip is to remove the distributer. I
>thought that I could sneak my intake in there without
>removing the dist. While I did get it in there, I did
>manage to screw up the rear bead of RTV I had laid
>down and I still had an oil leak back there.
>
>Del
>
>===
>Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
>rockman20@yahoo.com
>1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
>1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
>1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
>(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
>_____________________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com
>

________________________________________________________
NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet.  Shouldn't you?
Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 16:50:48 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?

Hell, why not just weld it on. Then it will never leak.

Omega Man


At 02:18 PM 5/24/99 -0600, you wrote:
>Hot glue works very well. Just whip  out your moms craft glue gun and go to
>work! You will have to clean up a lot of the little stringy things though...
>
>I also have heard that sacrificing a virgin over the open hood helps intake
>manifolds to seal, need to try this though. Oh yeah, you gotta do it under a
>full moon too.
>
>Also to help prevent leaking, stick a bunch of those cotton balls in the
>lifter valley. Just fill it up. They will soak up the oil so that it doesn't
>come out of the manifold.
>
>I have also found popsicle sticks work great as a gasket. Just sit on your
>porch eating em, them when you have 20 or so, just lay em in place.
>
>Hahaha I bet somebody somewhere has tried one of these things...
>
>On a more serious note,those things are a bitch to seal, but a good rtv bead
>usually does the trick.
>
>On a less serious note, once I tried to substitute duct tape for a
>thermostat gasket. Was hoping if I got the bolts tight enough, I could get
>down to pep boys. hehe had water spweing everywhere.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Date: Monday, May 24, 1999 1:25 PM
>Subject: Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?
>
>
>>
>>
>>--- steve harris writes:
>><snip>  TIP-use two people to place the
>>manifold.<snip>
>>
>>Another good tip is to remove the distributer. I
>>thought that I could sneak my intake in there without
>>removing the dist. While I did get it in there, I did
>>manage to screw up the rear bead of RTV I had laid
>>down and I still had an oil leak back there.
>>
>>Del
>>
>>===
>>Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
>>rockman20@yahoo.com
>>1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
>>1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
>>1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
>>(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
>>_____________________________________________________________
>>Do You Yahoo!?
>>Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com
>>
>
>________________________________________________________
>NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet.  Shouldn't you?
>Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
>http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 16:53:03 EDT
From: TheBlue67@aol.com
Subject: Re: Widest Tires?

doesnt coker tire make a 15 incher ss1???? not quite sure but i think they do.

Brent
1967 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 15:43:37 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: R12 A/C System thoughts...(ramblings)

I keep R12 in my DD. Talking about freezing you out! I think that the old 
systems may be optimized for R12. If you have a decently rebuilt a/c 
system you will be happy with it for a long time and the additional cost for 
the freon reall does not count on a hot day.

George

- ---------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
- ---------------------

On Mon, 24 May 1999, Reed, Stephen wrote:

> List,
> 	Since I have a new car that has the "Ozone friendly" R-134a I have
> been less than thrilled with the temperature of the air coming out of the
> vents.  When I had my '85 Accord I serviced the A/C system with a new
> expansion valve, receiver/dryer, o-rings, and a refurbished condenser.
> There would be 35' Fahrenheit air coming out of the vents on a 100' Texas
> day.  Driving around in standard Texas summer heat I would keep the blower
> on the 2/4 position, sometimes dropping it to the first position.
> 	With my new car I am lucky if it blows air close to 50-55'
> Fahrenheit.  It's only (Yeah right, only...) gotten to 90' so far and I have
> to keep the blower on 3/4 position to maintain a comfortable/acceptable
> temperature.  
> 	This leads me to thinking that I would rather pay the $45.00/LB for
> R-12 and have ~great~ air conditioning, than convert an older system to the
> R-134a and have a poor quality cooling system.  I think as long as you have
> the o-rings replaced and the system holds a vacuum for a half an hour you'll
> be safe in putting in R-12.  Granted it will cost more $$ but I think you
> would be a lot happier with R-12!!
> 
> What are your thoughts?
> 
> Steve Reed
> Austin, TX
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 16:01:16 -0500 (CDT)
From: blue442@webtv.net (Jeff Carter)
Subject: Re: R12 A/C System thoughts...(ramblings)

There may be something wrong with your A/C.  My Gran Fury has R-134a and
gets down to 42 degrees Farenheit.  I've heard some cars require an
additional push type fan on the condensor.  Maybe you could find one
cheap in an import yard to check it out.

Jeff Carter
68 Olds 442
82 Gran Fury cop car

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 14:20:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?

- --- Jeff Newman wrote:
> Hot glue works very well. Just whip  out your moms
> craft glue gun and go to
> work! You will have to clean up a lot of the little
> stringy things though...
> 
> I also have heard that sacrificing a virgin over the
> open hood helps intake
> manifolds to seal, need to try this though. Oh yeah,
> you gotta do it under a
> full moon too.
> 
> Also to help prevent leaking, stick a bunch of those
> cotton balls in the
> lifter valley. Just fill it up. They will soak up
> the oil so that it doesn't
> come out of the manifold.
> 
> I have also found popsicle sticks work great as a
> gasket. Just sit on your
> porch eating em, them when you have 20 or so, just
> lay em in place.
> 
> Hahaha I bet somebody somewhere has tried one of
> these things...
===========================

Damn! And all this time I've been spending money on
that expensive RTV and Fel Pro gaskets! Can I use
Elmers glue then to seal my heads to the block?
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 16:34:44 -0500
From: "zappa" <zappa@microgear.net>
Subject: RE: Intake Sealing Tricks?

Just as a side note to stupid things to do:

Next time you have your heads off stuff a red rag or two into the them and
forget they are there. You will get nice fuzzy red exhaust!! Don't ask me
how I know that. I will only plead the fifth!!!

Stephan
70 GoldOlds
ICQ# 498105


- --- Jeff Newman wrote:
> Hot glue works very well. Just whip  out your moms
> craft glue gun and go to
> work! You will have to clean up a lot of the little
> stringy things though...
>
> I also have heard that sacrificing a virgin over the
> open hood helps intake
> manifolds to seal, need to try this though. Oh yeah,
> you gotta do it under a
> full moon too.
>
> Also to help prevent leaking, stick a bunch of those
> cotton balls in the
> lifter valley. Just fill it up. They will soak up
> the oil so that it doesn't
> come out of the manifold.
>
> I have also found popsicle sticks work great as a
> gasket. Just sit on your
> porch eating em, them when you have 20 or so, just
> lay em in place.
>
> Hahaha I bet somebody somewhere has tried one of
> these things...
===========================

Damn! And all this time I've been spending money on
that expensive RTV and Fel Pro gaskets! Can I use
Elmers glue then to seal my heads to the block?
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 15:41:08 -0600
From: "Jeff Newman" <newsance@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?

"Damn! And all this time I've been spending money on
that expensive RTV and Fel Pro gaskets! Can I use
Elmers glue then to seal my heads to the block?"

Elmers is usually too strong. I fabricated a head gasket out of post it
notes though...


________________________________________________________
NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet.  Shouldn't you?
Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 17:42:53 EDT
From: R4C442@aol.com
Subject: Need Cool

Hey list!
	Looking for a "functioning" A6 compressor for the bro's 73 Delta (350 
2-bbl).
Anyone got a line on one?
										
		Ron Forsee
										
		65 442-Meister

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 17:47:49 EDT
From: Old1970442@aol.com
Subject: POR-15

Has anyone ever used POR-15 products? If so how did they work?

Heath
1970 442
1972 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 18:57:30 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?

On Mon, 24 May 1999, Gene Gilpin wrote:

> Hell, why not just weld it on. Then it will never leak.

I was thinking of this procedure for the !@$%$#@! exhaust manifold that
has caused me such grief... I guess manifold sealing design wasn't one of
Olds' strengths. I will soon be the owner of a $500 Delta with a $1500
exhaust sytem at the rate things are going!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 17:03:45 -0500 (EST)
From: hurst455@webtv.net (Corey Putnam)
Subject: Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?

- --WebTV-Mail-1519722703-6002
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit

  I had a blown out exhaust manifold gasket but couldn`t break the bolts
loose, JB Weld did a pretty good job on it. 

Corey Putnam
75 H/O W-30(down for awhile)
87 Regal w/Olds 455(Mama`s ride)
H/OCA #0915A
OCC #0208
OCA #031264
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930


- --WebTV-Mail-1519722703-6002
Content-Disposition: Inline
Content-Type: Message/RFC822
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit

Received: from mailsorter-101-2.bryant.webtv.net (209.240.198.96) by
	postoffice-281.iap.bryant.webtv.net; Mon, 24 May 1999 14:58:26
	-0700 (PDT)
Return-Path: <oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca>
Received: from halifax.chebucto.ns.ca (chebucto.ns.Ca [192.75.95.75]) by
	mailsorter-101-2.bryant.webtv.net (8.8.8/ms.graham.14Aug97) with
	ESMTP id OAA28032; Mon, 24 May 1999 14:58:24 -0700 (PDT)
Received: by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca id <33980-673>; Mon, 24 May 1999
	18:57:47 -0300
Received: from localhost (user: 'ab348', uid#16348) by
	halifax.chebucto.ns.ca id <32815-670>; Mon, 24 May 1999 18:57:30
	-0300
Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 18:57:30 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?
In-Reply-To: <3.0.6.32.19990524165048.009537c0@mailhost.wrallp.com>
Message-ID: 
<Pine.GSO.3.95.iB1.0.990524185455.15231A-100000@halifax.chebucto.ns.ca>
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII
X-Orcpt: rfc822;"|/csuite/etc/majordomo/wrapper resend -l oldsmobile -h 
chebucto.ns.ca oldsmobile-mml"
Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
Precedence: bulk
Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

On Mon, 24 May 1999, Gene Gilpin wrote:

> Hell, why not just weld it on. Then it will never leak.

I was thinking of this procedure for the !@$%$#@! exhaust manifold that
has caused me such grief... I guess manifold sealing design wasn't one of
Olds' strengths. I will soon be the owner of a $500 Delta with a $1500
exhaust sytem at the rate things are going!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm


- --WebTV-Mail-1519722703-6002--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 17:11:51 -0500
From: "Walker" <pwalker@megavision.com>
Subject: Re: POR-15

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0023_01BEA608.83D3D640
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

  I have used POR-15 on various small parts and brackets, as well as my =
entire rearend housing. As long as you follow the
directions, results will be most satisfactory. Finish is very durable. =
It even held up to battery acid on my battery tray.

John

67 Cutlass CS  455/TH350

- ------=_NextPart_000_0023_01BEA608.83D3D640
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp; I have used POR-15 on various =
small parts=20
and brackets, as well as my entire rearend housing. As long as you =
follow=20
the</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>directions, results will be most =
satisfactory.=20
Finish is very durable. It even held up to battery acid on my battery=20
tray.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>John</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>67 Cutlass CS&nbsp;=20
455/TH350</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0023_01BEA608.83D3D640--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 18:22:46 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Date:	Mon, 24 May 1999 18:22:46 -0400

Does anyone know anything about the happy 99 virus.
Can who ever knows E mail please

Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 18:27:12 -0400
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Re: WE NEED AN OLDS BIG BODY CLUB

I'm in full agreement with you. After reading some of the other posts on
this all I can say is that I hope the Antique Olds list starts accepting
later models. Although I only missed it by 2 years.
					R. Kevin Noon
					66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
					(Dynamic-saurus Rex)

- ----------
> From: EDMUND WILLIAMS <efw67@yahoo.com>

> 
> Why aren't there clubs out there for the big body Oldsmobiles. Everyone
> talks about the Cutlass/442 H/O's and Toronados. What about the
> Delta88's,98's,Dynamic88's,Starfires and Delmont88's? Don't get me
> wrong, 

>                 '70 Delta88 Holiday sedan

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 18:38:05 EDT
From: GregA80@aol.com
Subject: I need heads for my olds 455

Hey everyone, I am looking for cylinder heads for my olds 455, its out of a 
1968 442....I live in Mass, and all my searches are coming up with 
nothing...I'd greatly appreciate any help anyone could give me....thanks :-)
   Greg

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 18:39:13 -0400
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Re: conv. top conditioning?armorall?

Better than baby oil, (but not cheap) Neutrogena sesame seed oil. Smells
better too. My .02
				R. Kevin Noon
				66 Dynamic 88 Convertible

- ----------
> From: Johnson, Samuel <SJohnso6@allstate.com>
> To: 'Patton' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: RE: conv. top conditioning?armorall?
> Date: Monday, May 24, 1999 8:05 AM
> 
> And it's much cheaper too!
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From:	Patton [SMTP:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca]
> > Sent:	Monday, May 24, 1999 6:38 AM
> > To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca; patton@ComCAT.COM
> > Subject:	Re: conv. top conditioning?armorall?
> > 
> > 
> > List,
> > 
> >         Per a list members advice, I have been using
> > baby oil on all of the vinyl on my cars with GREAT
> > results - it causing no cracking or other side effects,
> > is not toxic and smells kinda nice two ............
> > 
> > The General
> > 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 18:56:25 -0400
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: Digester needs help!

Hi all,
I got some email from a guy who is unable to post to the list.  I think his
email servie can not post outside of the us, although I have ~never~ heard
of such a thing.  Anyone with non-US addresses, please reply to me privately
and I'm going to give the guy a little list of Us and non-US addresses to
try to send to.  If you don't mind...

Thanks!


Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 3.8 Calais
Bucks County, PA
mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 19:09:01 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: I need heads for my olds 455

Greg,
 No 455s in a '68 442 only 400s unless you have a Hurst.  You'll probably be
looking for C heads unless it's a W-30, then it's D heads, I believe.

GregA80@aol.com wrote:

> Hey everyone, I am looking for cylinder heads for my olds 455, its out of a
> 1968 442....I live in Mass, and all my searches are coming up with
> nothing...I'd greatly appreciate any help anyone could give me....thanks :-)
>    Greg

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 19:16:48 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: I need heads for my olds 455

Greg,

Forgot to finish my last message (the ginko is wearing off).  I have some later
J heads (smog jobs) if you are stuck, clean, new valve job. Not the best
performers but will get you going.

Dude

GregA80@aol.com wrote:

> Hey everyone, I am looking for cylinder heads for my olds 455, its out of a
> 1968 442....I live in Mass, and all my searches are coming up with
> nothing...I'd greatly appreciate any help anyone could give me....thanks :-)
>    Greg

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 19:17:14 EDT
From: S61starfir@aol.com
Subject: Re: OCA Nats Meeting ?

In a message dated 5/24/99 12:49:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Jetaway4sp@aol.com writes:

<< 
 
 Has anyone planned an informal meeting of list members at the national meet?
 
 How about a system of identifying your car ? Maybe our own window sticker in 
 the back?
 
 Randy in Oklahoma
 57 88 J >>
   I,m fling in so won't have a car, I will be renting one, I will be set up 
in the swap area as I am  shipping down a few boxes of NOS to sell. So if you 
want to meet a my swap spaces as we did last year in Springfield we can. I 
will have my E & G  Automotive sign hanging from my tables.

Everett  OCA# 1961  1961 Starfire

E & G Automotive
9 Newman Ave
Rumford, R.I. 02916
ANTIQOLDS@AOL.COM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 19:22:17 -0400
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: POR-15

Yep, great products. Did my trunk floor and one part of my interior floor
pan. Others on the list have coated their whole car with it prior to paint.

- -----Original Message-----

>Has anyone ever used POR-15 products? If so how did they work?
>
>Heath
>1970 442
>1972 Cutlass Supreme
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 18:25:09 -0700
From: Andy Lawrence <lawrencj@coral.indstate.edu>
Subject: Unread Message problem

Hey guys,

    I wrecked my CBR900RR about 2 weeks ago, i have been in the hospital since!
Well I just got home and have 1400+ unread messages, is there any way to just 
mark
these Read?

BigBlock
79 Olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 19:52:57 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: POR-15

Yes I have,  and the stuff is great.  You need to use the acid with it tho.
The POR 15 system is well worth the cash.  I highly recommend it.  I used it
to paint the frame on my 442.  You have to clean whatever you paint very
well,  and needs to be bare metal to work best.  You can see the frame on my
web page.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Old1970442@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 5:47 PM
Subject: POR-15


> Has anyone ever used POR-15 products? If so how did they work?
>
> Heath
> 1970 442
> 1972 Cutlass Supreme
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 19:57:43 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Unread Message problem

just goto the edit and select all then delete
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Andy Lawrence <lawrencj@coral.indstate.edu>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 9:25 PM
Subject: Unread Message problem


>
> Hey guys,
>
>     I wrecked my CBR900RR about 2 weeks ago, i have been in the hospital
since!
> Well I just got home and have 1400+ unread messages, is there any way to
just mark
> these Read?
>
> BigBlock
> 79 Olds
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 19:59:15 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: POR-15

Also forgot to add onto the last post.  If you goto the products link on my
web page there is a link to the POR 15 web site.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Old1970442@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 5:47 PM
Subject: POR-15


> Has anyone ever used POR-15 products? If so how did they work?
>
> Heath
> 1970 442
> 1972 Cutlass Supreme
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 20:08:43 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: WE NEED AN OLDS BIG BODY CLUB

JonKrisInc@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 5/21/99 7:28:06 AM EST, plh@nbn.net writes:
> 
> << The National Antique Oldsmobile Club currently accepts all Oldsmobiles
>  up to 1964, but the Board of Directors will soon be voting on whether or
>  not to expand that to include all full-sized cars up to 1973.
> 
>  Keep your fingers crossed,
>   >>
> That's refreshing, but what about extending it to 75's. After all in less
> than 7 months they will be 25yrs old. ( actually, since new models come out
> in September of the previous year, it's really only 4 months)  Doesn't that
> make it an antique?
> Bruce
> 75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course)

According to the article in a recent issue of "Runabout to Rockets":

"One proposal which has gained some support is to extend the rule to
include 1965-73 big cars, 88s, 98s and Toronados.  These cars are seen
as having more relationship to the 1964 and earlier cars.  The 1973
model year was the last for a full size convertible."

?????????????

Either '73 is a mis-print or somebody doesn't know what they are talking
about.  Another view to this is that '76s, while not meeting antigue
requirements, are virtually identical to the '75s.  I'd be pretty upset
if I owned a '76 and they only took up to '75.  The reason they stopped
at '64 was because of the body style change in '65.  I guess they have
to draw the line somewhere.  It'll be interesting to see what happens.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 20:15:18 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: WE NEED AN OLDS BIG BODY CLUB

Robert McCarthy wrote:
> 
> Do they (NAOC) have a website?

Yes, http://www.antiqueolds.org/

> I'm pretty sure my '65 442 is an
> antique, maybe they'll let me in.

But I doubt it.  They currently accept ALL Oldsmobiles up to '64 - That
includes F-85s, Cutlasses and 442s.  But a change to the model year rule
will only include 88s, 98s and Toronados.  Again, quoting from the
article:

"In previous discussions the view has been that the smaller cars and
muscle cars are significantly different from the cars which currently
are included."

There is no mention as to whether '61-'64 A-bodies will continue to be
accepted or not.

Paul 
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 20:35:16 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: '72 Delta 88 Royale Conv. resto question..

Ioannis Kouramanis wrote:
 
> First, I heard from the local bookstore that the standard
> catalogue for olds is out of print. Can anyone verify this?

Already?  That's not a very good sign, is it?  Try Classic Motorbooks,
I'm sure they'll have it.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 20:45:14 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: 1111045 dist: app'n?

Chris Brown Witt wrote:

> I cannot find 1111450 listed in the '67 CSM, they all have -0xx numbers in 
'67.

Not in my '67 P & A catalog, either.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 20:52:23 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Model Event CANCLLED ???

gjcouse wrote:

> "Oldsmobile Model Car Display CANCELLED "
>
> Anyone know why it was cancelled for all the days? 

According to the latest JWO it was due to lack of interest.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 17:56:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: EDMUND WILLIAMS <efw67@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: MY CARBURATOR IS LEAKING FUEL ONTO MY INTAKE MANIF

- --- Edward Binnix <comid@jellico.com> wrote:
> It sounds like an accelerator pump is leaking
> (common problem). Replace the
> pump diaphragm and it will most likely solve the
> problem.
> 
> Now, I'm assuming that you can actually see that
> fuel is leaking onto your
> manifold. If you are going simply by smell, check
> the fuel pump with the
> engine running to see if fuel is coming out of the
> weep hole, indicating a
> bad fuel pump diaphragm. It may be hard to see as
> they usually just spit
> when they are bad, so use a good flash light to look
> at the pump. Watch it
> for a little while as the leak is not always
> apparent immediately.  If the
> pump is in bad enough shape it could also cause the
> drivability problem.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> >I have a 70 Delta88 with a 455 2bbl Rochester carb.
> The carb seems to
> >be leaking fuel onto my intake manifold. I can
> smell fuel. Sometimes It
> >will buck and on hot days in traffic, and it
> sometimes shuts off. Do I
> >need to have the carb rebuilt? Could it be bad gas?
> I use regular gas.
> >According to the owners manual, I can use regular
> gas. Someone please
> >help me remedy this problem. Ed from Queens, New
> York
> >
> >_I replaced the fuel pump 3 months ago and i went to my mechanic
today and he said I need to rebuild or replace my carburator. it will
run me $150.00 plus labor. not too bad. Ed from Queens,
NY____________________________________________________________
> >Do You Yahoo!?
> >Free instant messaging and more at
> http://messenger.yahoo.com
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 21:07:02 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: 455 Into Vista Cruiser-Manifolds & Valve Covers?

Hello all,

Yep, it's me again.  Didn't get a reply before, trying again.
 
Sometime this summer I'm going to be swapping the 98's 455 into the
Vista Cruiser and I want to be sure I'm clear on what needs to be done:
 
- -It's a `73 455 completely stock. 
 
Valve covers:  I need special valve covers with notches in to clear the
air conditioner and brake booster, correct?  What are my options?
 
Exhaust Manifolds:  Are the X-Y manifolds absolutely neccesary?  I'd
like to find some cheaper and more readily availible manifolds if
possible.  Or use the ones on it, but they'll run into the frame or
something similar, correct?  The present 350 small block has duals with
stock capped single exhaust manifolds.  Any chance of getting these
pipes to bolt up to the 455?  They will soon need replacing anyway but
it would be nice not to have to pony up the cash for another few
months.
 
I appreciate any advice and comments.
 
Thanks in advance,
 
Greg Pruett
72 Vista Crusier
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais
73 98 LS

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 21:08:18 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: R134a conversion:  Swapping to a larger condenser

I'm considering converting my 80 Calais to R134a when I get it
roadworthy and was looking at the condensers in the Calais and my 81
diesel caprice parts car.  The caprice condenser is slightly larger than
the Calais;  31x16 inches vs 29x16 in the Calais.  I measured the with
at where the tubes in the condensers make a u-turn and go back into the
fins, so it's not just a wider mouning system in the Caprice.  It
appears to be larger capacity.

Since R134A requires a larger condenser than a comparable R12 system,
I'm wondering if I could swap the caprice condenser into the Calais.
I've read some AC theory books long ago and I know that increasing the
capacity of one part of the system can throw off the balance.  Even the
wrong diameter hoses can mess things up.
 
Does anyone know if just using the larger condenser will improve the
performance of the AC?  Or would it require a larger evaporator as
well?  Or some other part?  I intend to use a different variable orifice
tube as well.  I understand that V.O. tubes calibrated for R134a are on
the market for older cars now.
 
Thanks.
 
Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais
73 98 LS

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:03:11 EDT
From: Mr6BBL@aol.com
Subject: Re: 77 wont start

your fusable link is usally down by your starter  looks like a bulge in the 
wire going to the large term. on your starter sol. sometimes ,but not to 
often the purple sol.wire will give you trouble.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:11:07 EDT
From: Mr6BBL@aol.com
Subject: Re: Widest Tires?

yup. even as wide as 15x10 at 175.00 15x8 for 125.00 or 135.00 .

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:12:41 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?

In a message dated 5/24/99 4:50:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
ggilpin@wrallp.com writes:

<< Hell, why not just weld it on. Then it will never leak.
 
 Omega Man
  >>
I can't wait to see your Omegas when they are finished.  lol

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:21:20 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: garage floor(non-olds)

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BEA62B.5DE44C80
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I am getting ready to clean out the garage,  and the floor needs paint.  =
I have seen adds for some stuff from sears(I think).  I was looking for =
any suggestions for a good product to clean and paint the floor with.  =
You can send ideas to me direct if its not kosher to post it.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html

- ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BEA62B.5DE44C80
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I am getting ready to clean out the garage,&nbsp; =
and the=20
floor needs paint.&nbsp; I have seen adds for some stuff from sears(I=20
think).&nbsp; I was looking for any suggestions for a good product to =
clean and=20
paint the floor with.&nbsp; You can send ideas to me direct if its not =
kosher to=20
post it.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A><BR>Steve<BR>North=20
Carolina<BR>ICQ#26466860<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html">http://members.xoo=
m.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html</A></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01BEA62B.5DE44C80--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:19:53 EDT
From: R4C442@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1111045 dist: app'n?

Are you sure the last # is a 5? The 042 and 048 were distribs found on 65's.
										
		Ron Forsee
										
		65 442-Meister

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 21:35:09 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: 77 wont start

T Dzieciatkowski wrote:
> 
> well I think posted wrong. The car starters works it fine, the starter IS
> GOOD!!

I'd check the neutral safety switch first.  The first check is to just
hold the key to the "start" position and run the shifter between park
and low a few times and see if the car cranks.  Be carful, if the car
starts while in gear it'll try to move.  Be sure the brakes have fluid
and are working.  

If that doesn't work than bypass the neutral safety switch.  It's at the
bottom of the steering column, attatched to the upper side of it, near
the firewall.  It's plastic and metal and kinda U-shaped.  There's a few
sets of wires going to it.  You need the 2-wire connector that has a
pair of purple wires runnning to it.  Unplug it and jumper the wires
together with an unbent paper clip or something similar pushed into the
end of the connector.  Make sure you have a good connection.  That will
bypass the safety switch and the engine should crank if that's you're
problem.  Once again, be careful.  The car can start in gear this way so
be sure you're in park.

If it's not the safety switch then run a hot wire from the positive
battery terminal and touch it to the paper clip you've jammed into that
connector.  If the engine cranks the problem is either the ignition
switch or the wiring running to and from it. If it doesn't crank the
engine then it's in the wiring between the safety switch and the
starter.

> btw what does unbounce mean

When a message doesn't go through to the list for some reason (For
instance if a non-member posts or if certain key words appear in the
subject line) it gets "bounced" from the list and sent to the
administrator, Greg Beaulieu.  If it's worthy of forwarding to the list
he "un-bounces" it by sending it.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais
73 98 LS

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:25:54 EDT
From: Old1970442@aol.com
Subject: need info.

I need information with decoding my transmission. (1) The only numbers I have 
found are 26a128451 which is stamp in the transmission housing just above the 
pan on the left side of the transmission if you are looking from in front of 
it. (2) The other number is 26-PS-30446 which is on the small plate on the 
right side of the transmission if you are looking from in front of the 
transmission.    


Heath
1970 442
1972 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:27:45 -0400
From: "Lawrence A. Biasotto" <lbiasotto@ce.net>
Subject: Transmission shift points

I have a 71 Supreme with 350, 4bbl, th350, 2:56 open rear.  At what MPH
range should I expect to shift from 1 to 2, and from 2 to 3?  Presently
I dont shift from 2 to 3 until 50 mph.  Although the shift is smooth,
shifting at 50mph seems high.  The car is also slow to engage from Park
to 1 when the car is first started.  No problem after the first go. 
Tran fluid has recently been drained and changed but had no effect.  Is
this normal? Thanks.

Larry Biasotto
71 CS conv.
71 CS/SX conv.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:26:02 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1111045 dist: app'n?

In a message dated 5/24/99 5:46:52 PM Pacific Daylight Time, plh@nbn.net 
writes:

<< > I cannot find 1111450 listed in the '67 CSM, they all have -0xx numbers 
in '67.
 
 Not in my '67 P & A catalog, either.
 
 Paul
 -- 
 Paul Hartlieb >>

	Nor in Hollanders.   Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:42:38 -0400
From: "Wayne Schwartz" <wschwart@cgocable.net>
Subject: Re: garage floor(non-olds)

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BEA62E.58117C80
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I'm interested too.  ws
    -----Original Message-----
    From: steve harris <meso@pamlico.net>
    To: Olds E-mail Ring <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
    Date: Monday, May 24, 1999 9:15 PM
    Subject: garage floor(non-olds)
   =20
   =20
    I am getting ready to clean out the garage,  and the floor needs =
paint.  I have seen adds for some stuff from sears(I think).  I was =
looking for any suggestions for a good product to clean and paint the =
floor with.  You can send ideas to me direct if its not kosher to post =
it.
    meso@pamlico.net
    Steve
    North Carolina
    ICQ#26466860
    http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html

- ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BEA62E.58117C80
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 =
Transitional//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>

</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I'm interested too.&nbsp; =
ws</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>steve harris &lt;<A=20
    href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A>&gt;<BR><B>To: =
</B>Olds=20
    E-mail Ring &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>&g=
t;<BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>Monday, May 24, 1999 9:15 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>garage=20
    floor(non-olds)<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>I am getting ready to clean out the =
garage,&nbsp; and the=20
    floor needs paint.&nbsp; I have seen adds for some stuff from =
sears(I=20
    think).&nbsp; I was looking for any suggestions for a good product =
to clean=20
    and paint the floor with.&nbsp; You can send ideas to me direct if =
its not=20
    kosher to post it.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A><BR>Steve<BR>North=20
    Carolina<BR>ICQ#26466860<BR><A=20
    =
href=3D"http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html">http://members.xoo=
m.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html</A></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_000D_01BEA62E.58117C80--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 21:48:40 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: Need Cool

R4C442@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Hey list!
>         Looking for a "functioning" A6 compressor for the bro's 73 Delta (350
> 2-bbl).
> Anyone got a line on one?

You should still be able to get a rebuilt compressor from a parts store
for $100 or so.  I bought one from Autozone back in `97 for my Vista
Cruiser.  The seals in a used compressor can dry out from lack of use,
even if it was working when pulled.  Even if you get a working
compressor off a working AC system you're still not out of the woods
since they're known to fail after 10-15 years.  Not all do, but given
the price of freon it's not worth the gamble.  If you're switching to
R134-A then it might be worth trying.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser 
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais
73 98 LS

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:44:05 EDT
From: R4C442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Need Cool

Thanks for the info Greg, I'll pass it along.
										
		Ron Forsee
										
		65 442-Meister

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:48:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: to guy seeking conv rear 1/4 trims

someone recently wrote asking about convertible rear 1/4 trims, latest JWO has
some....

- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:11:40 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass vs. 97 Mustang

>Don't always think that the 1/4 mile proves your car acclerates
>faster...that Mustang is 495hp...and it'll go (in a straight line) a hell
of
>alot faster than your Oldsmobile. These Mustangs top out at around
>200mph...lets see any flying brick oldsmobile do that....?


Ummm, there is a major difference between a "quick" car and
a "fast" car.  Saying a car is quick refers to its acceleration.  Saying
that a car is fast is referring to terminal velocity.  The fastest car is
rarely
ever a the quickest car and vice versa.  Basically if you optimize for
acceleration your going to give up sustainable top speed which makes
the whole comparison somewhat lop-sided.  I do, however, agree that
in the grins per $$ the Mustang just doesn't stand a chance.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 22:08:48 -0400
From: "Gib Loudon" <cutlass@mill.tds.net>
Subject: Re: Transmission shift points

Well, My 69 with a 350 2 barrel shifts from 1 to 2 at around 60mph if held
to the floor from a stop.  Then it makes one hell of a cool squealing noise
when those $120 goodyear eagle one's loose traction at 60.....hmph...and Joe
P. makes fun of small blocks.....imagine if I had a 4 barrel???

Gib Loudon (a.k.a. "The Rocketman")
1969 Cutlass "S" Holiday Coupe
Check out Cutlass Net at:
http://www.cutlass.net
cutlass@mill.tds.net

- -----Original Message-----
From: Lawrence A. Biasotto <lbiasotto@ce.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, May 24, 1999 9:32 PM
Subject: Transmission shift points


>I have a 71 Supreme with 350, 4bbl, th350, 2:56 open rear.  At what MPH
>range should I expect to shift from 1 to 2, and from 2 to 3?  Presently
>I dont shift from 2 to 3 until 50 mph.  Although the shift is smooth,
>shifting at 50mph seems high.  The car is also slow to engage from Park
>to 1 when the car is first started.  No problem after the first go.
>Tran fluid has recently been drained and changed but had no effect.  Is
>this normal? Thanks.
>
>Larry Biasotto
>71 CS conv.
>71 CS/SX conv.
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:39:48 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Transmission shift points

>I have a 71 Supreme with 350, 4bbl, th350, 2:56 open rear.  At what MPH
>range should I expect to shift from 1 to 2, and from 2 to 3?  Presently
>I dont shift from 2 to 3 until 50 mph.  Although the shift is smooth,
>shifting at 50mph seems high.  The car is also slow to engage from Park
>to 1 when the car is first started.  No problem after the first go.
>Tran fluid has recently been drained and changed but had no effect.  Is
>this normal? Thanks.


Larry,
At least you don't have a Jetaway, my 68 doesn't shift into high (2nd) until
70 at full throttle!  Seriously though, what you didn't mention is how far
you
had the throttle down.  The governor in the trans will raise the shift
points
the more throttle you give it.  Because of that, I really can't say if
that's too
high or low without knowing how hard you were accelerate.  As for the
shifting from park to 1st, how long do you let the car warm up before you
take off.  It could just be that the trans is still cold and the ATF is just
thick
enough that it takes it a bit longer to flow through the trans.  Try letting
the
engine get up to temp before you take off and see if it does it still.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 21:51:31 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: garage floor(non-olds)

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01BEA62F.957E2AE0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

for your floor I would reccomend using TSP TriSodiumPhosphate with water =
and a stiff bristle brush to clean the floor then I would use swimming =
pool Muratic acid to etch the concrete followed by a double coat of =
white or light gray
epoxy floor paint this is a two part epoxy paint it is tougher than the =
latex types that are out there my shop used to be painted all white =
inside cielings floors and walls it really made it easy to find anything =
on the floor and lights were more efficient the gray doesnt show dirt as =
easy but the epoxy finishes dont stain easily so you just sweep it and =
it is white again ( shoot even my toolboxes were custom painted pearl =
white).....KK
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: steve harris=20
  To: Olds E-mail Ring=20
  Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 8:21 PM
  Subject: garage floor(non-olds)


  I am getting ready to clean out the garage,  and the floor needs =
paint.  I have seen adds for some stuff from sears(I think).  I was =
looking for any suggestions for a good product to clean and paint the =
floor with.  You can send ideas to me direct if its not kosher to post =
it.
  meso@pamlico.net
  Steve
  North Carolina
  ICQ#26466860
  http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html

- ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01BEA62F.957E2AE0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>for your floor I would reccomend using TSP =
TriSodiumPhosphate=20
with water and a stiff bristle brush to clean the floor then I would use =

swimming pool Muratic acid to etch the concrete followed by a double =
coat of=20
white or light gray</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>epoxy floor paint this is a two part epoxy paint it =
is tougher=20
than the latex types that are out there my shop used to be painted all =
white=20
inside cielings floors and walls it really made it easy to find anything =
on the=20
floor and lights were more efficient the gray doesnt show dirt as easy =
but the=20
epoxy finishes dont stain easily so you just sweep it and it is white =
again (=20
shoot even my toolboxes were custom painted pearl =
white).....KK</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net" title=3Dmeso@pamlico.net>steve =
harris</A>=20
  </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A=20
  href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca" =
title=3Doldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>Olds=20
  E-mail Ring</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, May 24, 1999 8:21 =
PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> garage =
floor(non-olds)</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2>I am getting ready to clean out the garage,&nbsp; =
and the=20
  floor needs paint.&nbsp; I have seen adds for some stuff from sears(I=20
  think).&nbsp; I was looking for any suggestions for a good product to =
clean=20
  and paint the floor with.&nbsp; You can send ideas to me direct if its =
not=20
  kosher to post it.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A><BR>Steve<BR>North=20
  Carolina<BR>ICQ#26466860<BR><A=20
  =
href=3D"http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html">http://members.xoo=
m.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html</A></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0018_01BEA62F.957E2AE0--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 22:13:41 -0500
From: Dan Williams <442much@home.com>
Subject: Re: POR-15 / Chassis Coat black

I have used all of the POR-15 paints and found them to work very well,
except for the chassis coat black.  Has anybody else used this?  When I
painted my frame with it, it went on very thick and did not smooth out,
thus leaving brush strokes.  The POR-15 did not do that when applied. 
It look great with the POR-15 coat, and the chassis coat top coat ruined
it.  I'm going to call the folkes at POR-15 and see what they say. 
Also, I noticed that the POR-15 did not stand up to chipping as
advertised, I was able to easily chip it.  

- -Dan
> 
> > Has anyone ever used POR-15 products? If so how did they work?
> >
> > Heath
> > 1970 442
> > 1972 Cutlass Supreme
> >

- -- 
Dan Williams                            442Much@home.com
Marion, IA                             68 442 Convertible

				   (+)------------------------------------(+)
        |  http://www.442.com/williams68.html  | 
       (+)------------------------------------(+)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 20:29:29 PDT
From: "Ioannis Kouramanis" <kourama@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: POR-15

>Has anyone ever used POR-15 products? If so how did they work?
>

My brother spent a lot of money on this stuff for his '68 charger.
It has a very particular nature.

1) it won't work if you spray it out of a spray gun. You have to
paint it on with a brush.

2) it stands for Paint Over Rust. It won't stick to anything but
rusty metal. the rustier the better.

3) On a test piece we coated in POR: we leaned aginst this thing
on a bench grinder for a full minute and it wouldn't come off. All
that happened was the shine dulled a little. it is amazingly TOUGH

4) wear COMPLETE body covering when using it. if any gets on your
skin it will stay there for several days.

5) The finish is absolutely gorgeous, like polished obsidian.

what else...I think that's all.

Oh yeah 6) It may be the application method he used, but my brother
complained that it dodn't cover nearly as much area as the company
claimed.


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 00:11:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: R12 A/C System thoughts...(ramblings)

> 	With my new car I am lucky if it blows air close to 50-55'

Something's wrong with the system...  it's not just the R134.  

> 	This leads me to thinking that I would rather pay the $45.00/LB for
> R-12 and have ~great~ air conditioning, than convert an older system to the
> R-134a and have a poor quality cooling system.  

>From my experience (about 20 cars converted), R134 usually works just as
well, if not not better than R12 in some cases (I'm gettting  my abestos
underware right now...) Most orfice systems seem to work just fine.   Ford
products (80's & up) seem to be even COLDER than with R12 - namely their
front-driver cars.

Last year I had a Escort that ended up with frost coming out of the
vents... never did that on R12!

HOWEVER, older expansion valve systems usually don't works as well unless
they're slightly overcharged.  I can't exactly explain why, but that's
general experience.   R134 calibrated expansion valves are available, but
I've yet to try one since most people find the A/C acceptable. 

Keep in mind we're in NY so it's more about getting the humidity out than
the temp from 100deg to 50 deg.   We're dropping an ambient of probably
85deg. down to 50 or 60 deg, a delta of only 25 deg.  From the sound of it
in Texas, you're trying to drop 100 to 50, which is twice the delta and
with less humidity..... yikes!

> Steve Reed
> Austin, TX

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    -->   bob@tecmark.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 00:19:43 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: New Website, need all your help with this one!

New list member (relatively speaking) shamelessly sucking up to Joe
"anything less than 400 cubes is a lawnmower engine" P.   :)
Good luck on your site.  And sorry Joe, but I couldn't resist it....
_________

Sorry?  Heck, I couldn't have said it better myself!  ;-)

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 01:27:01 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 455 Into Vista Cruiser-Manifolds & Valve Covers?

Greg,

The notched valve covers are not necessary, as the more common un-notched 
covers
will clear.  The notches are really designed to make it easier to get the 
covers
off with the engine in the car.  I've had the non-notched "OLDSMOBILE" covers 
on
several big blocks in A-bodies with no problems.

The exhaust manifolds are a different problem.  If you plan to use stock-type
exhaust pipes, you'll need A-body manifolds.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 23:06:45 -0700
From: Jim Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: 71 D-88 Parting Out

My neighbor bought this at a local tow auction.  He is keeping the 455 
heads, the motor appears to have been run hot & there's metal where there 
shouldn't be.  It is a 4 door, green w/ green interior.  He is keeping it 
at the yard (he works as a tow driver also) for a short time, if anyone has 
anything they need off this beast - e-mail me privately.  Again, he only 
needs the heads.  Motor is extremely clean on the outside, a shame someone 
ran it into the ground otherwise.




"Lisa Madsen" <Lisa@hotglass.com>

Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile - Home Page
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1976
*********************************

