Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1910


oldsmobile-digest      Saturday, April 17 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1910



Re: Yellow paint on a 442?
Re: question on 455 heads
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1909
Testing 1,2,3 - don't read
test -- don't bother to read
test
compression test
Re: gbody rancho suspensions?
Adjustable Front Suspension
Re: Boneyard Victory
Re: manifolds
Desperately need Olds 3.42 or 3.91 gears
RE: O-type rearend
Re: Yellow paint on a 442?
regarding your site
regarding your site
Re: Yellow paint on a 442?
Re: Yellow paint on a 442?
Re: Yellow paint on a 442?
Re: Yellow paint on a 442?
Re: Master Cylinder Question
Re: Yellow paint on a 442?
Headers
Re: Master Cylinder Question
Yellow paint on a 442?
FS:  '94 Cutlass Ciera
Re: Yellow paint on a 442?
Re: Yellow paint on a 442?
Re: Yellow paint on a 442?
Re: harmonic balancer
Re: Headers
Re: R-12 to R-134 conversion
Re: points to HEI, how?
Re: Missing
Re: O-type rearend
bushings
History of Yellow...
Re: Adjustable Front Suspension
Console Lock Retainer
Nuetral Safety Switch Bracket
Re: History of Yellow...
Re: compression test
Re: R-12 to R-134 conversion
RE: compression test
Rear end question...
Re: Yellow paint on a 442?
Re: Rear end question...
My olds won't start
Primer...
Re: My olds won't start
Re: Fuel Pump to Carb line
Car Back Together- FIrst Ride
RE: My olds won't start
Re: My olds won't start
RE: Primer...
Re: Primer...
Spring Carlisle OCA Gathering

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 08:47:03 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Yellow paint on a 442?

Brian Ammons wrote:
> 
> Hello all.
> 
> I was just thinking about some really random things, and this fact is a key
> element...what shades of yellow (if any) were available on A-bodies thru
> 1972?  

In 1969 the only yellow was Saffron (see the '69 colors at
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/69_large/69_XColors.jpg).  In '70
there was that hot yellow used for the Rallye 350's.

> Is there another breakdown between F85/Cutlass/442s/Vistas?

I'm not sure what you mean.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 08:58:11 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: question on 455 heads

Dave Cullen wrote:
> 
> <snip>
> I s'pose it depends on how you define efficiency.

I would assume efficiency is defined as power/fuel burned.  The more
power for the same amount of fuel the more efficient.  I may be wrong.

I find some of the terms used on the list misleading/confusing
particularly "better engine".  My understanding is what is meant is
"better racing engine" since a trailer towing car or a car designed for
long life would, I believe, have a different definition of better.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 11:06:17 EDT
From: Ejrm518@aol.com
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1909

please delete me from your olds digest Too Much Info.  Remove EJRM518@aol.com 
from mailing list.  This is Third Request for removal.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 11:39:30 -0400
From: Scott Parker <sparker442@banet.net>
Subject: Testing 1,2,3 - don't read

Just testing the appearance of messages using my new ISP...
Scott Parker
71 442 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 11:45:26 -0400
From: Scott Parker <sparker442@banet.net>
Subject: test -- don't bother to read

Testing banet.net e-mail.
Scott

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 11:46:02 -0400
From: Scott Parker <sparker442@banet.net>
Subject: test

testing

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 12:08:26 -0400
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: compression test

Hey guys and gals.......


I am going in a few minutes to look at a 1990 Cadillac Brougham.  I am
interested in doing a compression test on the car but don't know how to
do it on these newer cars.  My dad tells me to pull the coil wire off so
it won't start when I spin it over.  Makes sense, but I really don't
think there is a coil wire to be found.  To make a long story short,
what do I have to remove in place of the nonexistent(?) coil wire?  

Olds content:  I have been told that there is a strong possibility that
it has an Olds built engine in it.  I know nothing about Caddys but
could tell if it was an Olds or not.  If it is it would be the 307
right?  I know that whatever GM engine it has, it is a 5.0 liter.  What
does the list think about this?  
Thanks all,
Brian.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 12:06:58 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: gbody rancho suspensions?

Tamera and all;

    When your mentioning the Hydraulics aspects I fully agree with you. I'd
actually like to find out more about this. Not to "Play" hippity - hop with
the car but as you reference about the lowered "G"s. Quincy is lowered
1+1/2" to begin with. Than add the Ground Effects (that are functional as to
air flow), and there are situations where I would love to be able to hit a
button to raise the front end of him to clear an obstacle. Such as a speed
bump taller than most.  Most speed bumps "Just" clear the Air Dam. But I've
gotten Quincy into a municipality parking lot where the exit is a different
route than entry that I cleared. Don't you know the exit speed bump was
taller than the entry one. I had to get 2 people to "Lift" the front end
slightly as I drove Quincy over the bump. Otherwise the front air dam
(fiberglass, production units will be urethane and 1" shorter) would be in
very expensive pieces all over the lot. So I surly could use a hydraulic
system to "Lift" the front  slightly for clarence in situations like these.
Can anyone suggest how these others implement a lift system? Where would I
go to purchase such a system. I had thought about a front set of Air Shocks
but this is out. My suspension is finely tuned as is. I need a secondary
system to accomplish my needs that fully retracts when not in immediate use.
The rear of Quincy has plenty of clearance. It's the front I need this
lifting ability on. Particularly since Quincy will be making several road
trips through the Summer + Fall to different shows and events. I know my
local area and can avoid areas where the pavement is in questionable
condition. On a road trip this will not be the case. I can see running into
trouble around any corner. Any suggestions anyone can offer would be greatly
appreciated.  Thanks,   Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi


- ----- Original Message -----
From: Tamera <fourchows@webtv.net>
To: <Olds_gbody@listbot.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 1999 6:51 AM
Subject: Re: gbody rancho suspensions?


> Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List - http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/
>
> Around here, I have never seen a G-body "lifted"..... all I ever see are
> the G-body's that drag the ground and get high centered on a speedbump,
> or they have hydraulics and drive around with one corner of the car
> lifted way up in the air and the opposite corner dragging the ground.
> Another variation is the front end lifted 3 feet off the ground and the
> rear end 2 inches off the ground....... How do they drive like that???
> I don't know about you guys and gals, but I don't "get" it........
>
> ~Tamera
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________________
> To unsubscribe, write to olds_gbody-unsubscribe@listbot.com
> Start Your Own FREE Email List at http://www.listbot.com/
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 12:36:44 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Adjustable Front Suspension

Tamera and all;

    When your mentioning the Hydraulics aspects I fully agree with you. I'd
actually like to find out more about this. Not to "Play" hippity - hop with
the car but as you reference about the lowered "G"s. Quincy is lowered
1+1/2" to begin with. Than add the Ground Effects (that are functional as to
air flow), and there are situations where I would love to be able to hit a
button to raise the front end of him to clear an obstacle. Such as a speed
bump taller than most.  Most speed bumps "Just" clear the Air Dam. But I've
gotten Quincy into a municipality parking lot where the exit is a different
route than entry that I cleared. Don't you know the exit speed bump was
taller than the entry one. I had to get 2 people to "Lift" the front end
slightly as I drove Quincy over the bump. Otherwise the front air dam
(fiberglass, production units will be urethane and 1" shorter) would be in
very expensive pieces all over the lot. So I surly could use a hydraulic
system to "Lift" the front  slightly for clarence in situations like these.
Can anyone suggest how these others implement a lift system? Where would I
go to purchase such a system. I had thought about a front set of Air Shocks
but this is out. My suspension is finely tuned as is. I need a secondary
system to accomplish my needs that fully retracts when not in immediate use.
The rear of Quincy has plenty of clearance. It's the front I need this
lifting ability on. Particularly since Quincy will be making several road
trips through the Summer + Fall to different shows and events. I know my
local area and can avoid areas where the pavement is in questionable
condition. On a road trip this will not be the case. I can see running into
trouble around any corner. Any suggestions anyone can offer would be greatly
appreciated.  Thanks,   Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi


- ----- Original Message -----
From: Tamera <fourchows@webtv.net>
To: <Olds_gbody@listbot.com>
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 1999 6:51 AM
Subject: Re: gbody rancho suspensions?


> Oldsmobile G-Body Mailing List - http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/
>
> Around here, I have never seen a G-body "lifted"..... all I ever see are
> the G-body's that drag the ground and get high centered on a speedbump,
> or they have hydraulics and drive around with one corner of the car
> lifted way up in the air and the opposite corner dragging the ground.
> Another variation is the front end lifted 3 feet off the ground and the
> rear end 2 inches off the ground....... How do they drive like that???
> I don't know about you guys and gals, but I don't "get" it........
>
> ~Tamera


- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 13:01:08 -0400
From: "person" <vbdeveloper@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Boneyard Victory

Yeah 70 will do just fine. I may also be interested in seats(depending on
color/condition) and a TILT steering column with cruise. I also need the
cruise control piece that mounts next to the carb. Thanks, Allan
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+
+
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
VBDeveloper@worldnet.att.net

                                       =
                                           =
                                                =
==================================
'69 Olds Ninety-Eight "Topless Bubba"=========
====666=================999============
        666                                  999
- -----Original Message-----
From: Peter Berusch <Berusch@mindspring.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, April 17, 1999 8:40 AM
Subject: Re: Boneyard Victory


>Gonna check it out this morning.  Any idea where I can get door panels for
a
>'68 98 convertible?  Again, would '70 parts be ok in your application?
>Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 13:07:42 EDT
From: Harrell17@aol.com
Subject: Re: manifolds

I have both sets of mounts. The 455 mounts are a little taller than the 350. 
I have theengine set in now but the tranny mount once bolted to the tranny 
puts the crossmember about an inch and a half too far back to line up with 
the last holes in the frame. I tell you if it ain't one thing it's two. Jim

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 13:28:26 EDT
From: Zeilmanns@aol.com
Subject: Desperately need Olds 3.42 or 3.91 gears

Dear fellow Oldsmobilers,

I have a few possibilities that I am checking into, but nothing definate yet, 
so I am re-posting my message in hopes that I can find the right ring and 
pinion set.  

I have my '69 4-4-2 in the shop and am trying to make a NOS 4 series posi
unit work with my original 3.23 gears and it is a no-go situation.  I am
desperately seeking an original set of Olds 3.42 or 3.91 gears for an "o" 
type rear to replace the 3.23s that are currently in there.  HELP!  I am told 
that aftermarket
gears will not work with the OLDS Posi, and truly want to keep it.  We have
contacted Richmond Gear and they can't help us, so I am once again turning
to you folks for assistance.  If you have a spare set of Olds 3.42 or 3.91
gears, or even know where I might find some, please E-mail me directly at
zeilmanns@aol.com.

Any help you can give would be totally appreciated.

Thanks,

Jeff Zeilmann
'69 4-4-2, '69 Cutlass Convertible

314-939-4613

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 12:34:55 -0500
From: "Stephan" <zappa@goodthing.net>
Subject: RE: O-type rearend

I currently have 2:56 gears in it and I am looking to put positraction in. I
found a NOS unit in South Carolina but I would need to change my gears and I
would like to keep them for gas mileage. I was looking at the Powertrax
performance locker and talked to a tech guy that said he could help me if I
knew the dimensions from the thrust face to the thrust face of the spider
gears. And the dimension of the side gear also. I took the cover off and
tried to measure everything, but without pulling it all apart it was
impossible to get even a close approximation. Since this is a daily driver I
was unwilling to disassemble it. I was hoping that maybe somebody would have
this information available already.

Stephan
70 Gold Olds

- -----Original Message-----
From:	oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Greg Rollin
Sent:	Friday, April 16, 1999 11:39 PM
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:	Re: O-type rearend

Stephan wrote:
>
> I have a stock 1970 Oldsmobile O-type rearend. It is a 12 bolt case with a
> 10 bolt ring gear. The ring gear is 8.5 inches and it has 28 spline axles.
> Anyone know somewhere to get parts for this? How about internal parts
> measurements? What crosses to it in internal parts? Any help would be
> appreciated.
>
> Stephan
> 70 Gold Olds


Stephan,

Because there are so many internal differences
between the O axles used between 1967 and 1970,
listing all the components that will or won't
interchange with each other would make for a
small book.  So for the sake of bandwidth,
specifically, what are you looking to do with
the rear?  And what is the current ratio?


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Web Site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 12:54:57 -0500
From: Wyatt <Wyatt@jobax.net>
Subject: Re: Yellow paint on a 442?

Cliff Simpson wrote:

> Brian Ammons wrote:
> >
> > Hello all.
> >
> > I was just thinking about some really random things, and this fact is a key
> > element...what shades of yellow (if any) were available on A-bodies thru
> > 1972?
>
> In 1969 the only yellow was Saffron (see the '69 colors at
> http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/69_large/69_XColors.jpg).  In '70
> there was that hot yellow used for the Rallye 350's.

  I was lead to believe in fathers '70 brocheur that the Rallye 350 color was
called sebring yellow.
Mike Wyatt '70 442

>
>
> > Is there another breakdown between F85/Cutlass/442s/Vistas?
>
> I'm not sure what you mean.
> --
>
> Cliff Simpson
> mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
> '69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
> http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 03:28:34
From: <prident8493@yahoo.com>
Subject: regarding your site

Email removal 800-771-2003,
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 03:33:31
From: <prident8493@yahoo.com>
Subject: regarding your site

Email removal 800-771-2003,
Monday thru Friday 8-5 Pacific Time



    IMMEDIATELY INCREASE YOUR SITES EXPOSURE

     Traffic Accelerator Will Submit Your 

      Web Site To Over 900 Search Engines, 
 
             Directories, & Indices

         For A Cost Of Only $ 14.95 (*)


          100% Money Back Guarantee

 
 Call us toll free at (800) 771-2003 in the USA
 and Canada or outside the USA at (916) 771-4739
 Be sure to mention Traffic Accelerator when you
 call.


04/17/99
(*) We submit your site MONTHLY to over 900 
search engines, directories and indices for a
total cost of just $14.95 per month. Minimum 12 
month term required.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 12:52:15 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Yellow paint on a 442?

Wyatt wrote:
> 
>   I was lead to believe in fathers '70 brochure that the Rallye 350 color was
> called sebring yellow.

Of course it was, my brain must have been upstairs sleeping when I wrote
that :0

So now Brian has to tell us why he wanted to know,
- --

Cliff Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 15:25:27 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Yellow paint on a 442?

Brian Ammons wrote:
> 
> Hello all.
> 
> what shades of yellow (if any) were available on A-bodies thru
> 1972?  Is there another breakdown between F85/Cutlass/442s/Vistas?
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737

Oh,  Brian must have missed my thesis a couple of years ago about the
entire history of yellow paint on Oldsmobiles.  Anyone have it????  Or
should I re-post it?  Hmmmmm?  :)

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 15:30:18 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Yellow paint on a 442?

Greg Pruett wrote:
> 
> I know of two shades in 1972....Sunfire yellow and Sunflower yellow.

Sunflower Yellow?  That's not an Olds color, at least not as far as I
know.  Only one yellow in '72 and that's Sunfire, which is what my
convertible is.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 14:43:17 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: Yellow paint on a 442?

At 03:42 AM 4/17/99 -0700, you wrote:
>I know of two shades in 1972....Sunfire yellow and Sunflower yellow. 

>Drew Senko used to have a scanned sheet of 71 or 72 color chips posted
>on his webpage:  http://members.aol.com/drewinva  Might give you an
>idea.

Thanks, Greg...I looked at the color chips on Drew's page, and yellow is
not an option.  Was 1972 the first year you could have a screamin' yellow
banshee?
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 15:40:24 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Master Cylinder Question

In a message dated 4/16/99 8:21:50 PM Pacific Daylight Time, hankins5@hit.net 
writes:

<< Dorian-
 
   I am skeptical about the seal being the cause of the problem.  I would
 have a look at all four wheel cylinders (if you haven't already) and see if
 mebbe you have a slow leak letting air in/fluid out.
   I had a 72 Cutlass with power drums, and it had the same problem. . .
 . -spongy feel no matter what I did.  I paid some ripoff artist 126 bucks to
 rebuild the front brakes (I was sixteen --new to the game/knew nothing),  I
 replaced the master cylinder, checked the booster & check valve, I bled the
 brakes (over and over and over  ad nauseum),and even lengthened the pushrod
 to get the pedal up a little bit.  I'm short. I eventually decided I had to
 live with it.
 
   Two years later I'm complaining to my cousin about it.  He says 'What? No
 pedal?  I'll be over on Saturday.' He said he'd had the exact same problem
 with his 70 Chevelle.  He brought over an air bubble and we pulled the
 bleeders and blew out the brake lines.  You wouldn't believe the crap that
 came out!  I wouldn't if I hadn't been there.  It looked like rusty mud.
 Thing is, the fluid never looked bad when I bled the brakes. I was really
 surprised.
   We put the bleeders back in, put in new fluid, bled 'em, and ~lo and
 behold~ pedal feel!!  Whoda thunkit?  I tolerated crappy brakes for two
 years.
 
 May not be your problem, but mebbe will help somebody.
 
 Keep us posted  ; )
 
 Glen >>

	Yeah..good info..I wasn't having problems, just seen people who have. 
It just got me to thinking what with the hole in the rubber seal and all
	I'm definately going to bleed the system though..I know they say not 
to use opened DOT3 brake fluid, but I figure if kept in a dry place, a 
plastic film between the cap and threads, it will at least be good for 
flushing out the lines. Not for regular use, just for flushing. No reason to 
use good stuff to get crud out of the lines I would think..then empty the 
system out, flush once with good stuff, then fill and be done with it. : 
) 	
										
									Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 14:53:04 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: Yellow paint on a 442?

Hello Paul and Cliff (and everyone else)

>Oh,  Brian must have missed my thesis a couple of years ago about the
>entire history of yellow paint on Oldsmobiles.  Anyone have it????  Or
>should I re-post it?  Hmmmmm?  :)

YES!

>So now Brian has to tell us why he wanted to know,

I really can't think of a good reason - been kind of thinking about paint
lately (given Andrew Conkey's BLACK '84 Delta), and was thinking that I
havn't seen too many yellow Oldsmobiles.

I looked at http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/69_large/69_XColors.jpg,
and "Saffron" doesn't look like a yellow at all - looks more like sand, or
that Crayola Crayon color that you used to use for skin color...




- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 15:44:56 EDT
From: SHELTERMEN@aol.com
Subject: Headers

Anyone know of a header that will fit on a '76 cutlass frame with a Ch*vy 350 
in it.  My local speed shop is drawing a blank.

Tim
76 Cutlass street stock
67 Delmont

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 15:57:36 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Master Cylinder Question

In a message dated 4/17/99 2:41:51 PM Central Daylight Time, 
DYeager535@aol.com writes:

<< 
 	Yeah..good info..I wasn't having problems, just seen people who have. 
 It just got me to thinking what with the hole in the rubber seal and all
 	I'm definately going to bleed the system though..I know they say not 
 to use opened DOT3 brake fluid, but I figure if kept in a dry place, a 
 plastic film between the cap and threads, it will at least be good for 
 flushing out the lines. Not for regular use, just for flushing. No reason to 
 use good stuff to get crud out of the lines I would think..then empty the 
 system out, flush once with good stuff, then fill and be done with it. : 
) 	
 										
 									Dorian
  >>
  Do I understand you need a master cylinder seal?...if so email me your 
address...I have a brandnew one that I dont need. I mail it to you free. 

Collyn 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 13:07:59 -0700
From: "Mountney, Scott" <scott.mountney@attws.com>
Subject: Yellow paint on a 442?

The answer about the yellow shades in 1972 was absolutely right.   The
brighter, sunfire yellow  was also what people called "rally 350" yellow
which I think was offered for a few different years.  

My car is sunflower yellow, which is the original color (I dont know what
the paint code is off hand but I can get it for you when I get to my car
Monday.

Sunflower yellow looks good with cars with a black top (came on Supremes
with black vinyl, and supreme convertibles it is also common)   I have seen
it on cars with white tops and it looks kind of "soft".

I just repainted my car in the sunflower, I love the color, but it is very
retro looking.   Not the most masculine color either, but I have had many
yellow vehicles and I like it.    the shop I used "nailed" the color dead
on, you cant tell the original door jambs and under trunk from the new
paint.    If you want a 'period' (late 60s/70s) look it is a good choice.
If you want an aggressive look, go with the brighter one.   
I think the brighter color looks good on the coupe (hardtop)

I will send a picture if you like when I get it totally done. (doing the
rims now)   On 442.com there are the "member pictures", one is in the
Sunflower.


Scott Mountney
Senior RF Engineer
AT&T Wireless Services
International Development and Operations
7277 164TH AVE NE
Redmond WA   98052
Desk (425) 580-6364
Cell   (206) 409-3234
Fax  (425) 580-6363

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 13:13:45 PDT
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: FS:  '94 Cutlass Ciera

Hi all,

I am posting this for a friend of mine.

- -----------------------------------------------------
For Sale:  '94 Olds Cutlass Ciera,  Silver w/ Blue interior.
Located:  Austin, Texas.     Asking:  $5200 FIRM
Contact: cmguill@texas.net

V6 3.1 Ltr, Automatic,w/ 53K mi.  It has a/c,ps/pb,power 
windows/locks and power seats.  The body is in very good shape w/ 
only one minor dent behind drivers-side passenger wheelwell, where 
someone misjudged while parking.  This is a solid car that runs 
great.  It has no rust. Maintenance records available.  He is selling 
it, because he just bought a Jeep.

It is retailed at about $7900

- ---Asking $5200 firm (,but will take more :)---

- -----------------------------------------------------
Normal disclaimers.....

Chris Rivier 
Austin,TX 
'66 Delta 88   The BEAST under CONSTRUCTION. 
'88 Festiva   ZIPPY 166K Parts Hauler. 
 
http://www2.bladeti.com/cars


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 17:28:33 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Yellow paint on a 442?

On Sat, 17 Apr 1999, Brian Ammons wrote:
> I looked at http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/69_large/69_XColors.jpg,
> and "Saffron" doesn't look like a yellow at all - looks more like sand, or
> that Crayola Crayon color that you used to use for skin color...

They used that same color in '67 and '68, maybe even earlier. I remember
seeing it on a fair number of Ch*vys back then, though I don't think I've
ever seen it on an Olds. I almost painted my '68 that color. It is a
creamy yellow, very muted. They even used it on the senior series so it
isn't a very sporty-looking color, but I like it.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 16:29:05 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Yellow paint on a 442?

Brian Ammons wrote:
 
> >Oh,  Brian must have missed my thesis a couple of years ago about the
> >entire history of yellow paint on Oldsmobiles.  Anyone have it????  Or
> >should I re-post it?  Hmmmmm?  :)
> 
> YES!

I can't.  Greg will throw me off the list...
  
> I looked at http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/69_large/69_XColors.jpg,
> and "Saffron" doesn't look like a yellow at all 

I checked that out, too and the color is way off there.  It's hard to
scan something and have the colors come out like they should.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 16:34:26 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Yellow paint on a 442?

Mountney, Scott wrote:
> 
> The answer about the yellow shades in 1972 was absolutely right.

Scott, I'm not trying to get you worked up, but - no, it's not.  I've
got the '72 color and trim book in front of me and there is only one
yellow in there, code 56, Sunfire Yellow.

> The
> brighter, sunfire yellow  was also what people called "rally 350" yellow
> which I think was offered for a few different years.

Again, I'm not trying to start an argument, but this isn't true. 
"Rallye 350" yellow is code 51, Sebring Yellow, and is quite different
from Sunfire Yellow.  I've got a Sunfire Yellow '72 convertible and if
you park if next to a Rallye 350 there is a definate difference in the
shade.  They aren't even close.
 
> My car is sunflower yellow, which is the original color (I dont know what
> the paint code is off hand but I can get it for you when I get to my car
> Monday.

What year is it?
 
> On 442.com there are the "member pictures", one is in the
> Sunflower.

I'll have to go check that out.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 13:38:16 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: harmonic balancer

B. Vosburgh wrote:
> 
> I am on my 3rd balancer in 3 weeks . Has anyone had any luck with fluid
> damper, the stock ones slip on the ring after 2 or three passes. never
> had this problem before.                   thanks   Butch  68  442  post


Butch,

Although I've never had this problem, one solution would
be drilling and pinning the outer ring to the center hub.
If done in 180 or 90 degree increments, the balance would
not be affected.  Center the hole in the rubber insulator,
and drill a hole large enough (approx. 3/16") to cut into 
outer ring and center hub and press a roll pin in the hole. 
BTW, at 10.99, NHRA requires an SFI certified balancer,
and if I remember correctly, you're not far away from that
number.  Might be time to go with the aftermarket balancer. 


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland Oregon  503-244-8249

Visit us at:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 13:42:23 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Headers

SHELTERMEN@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Anyone know of a header that will fit on a '76 cutlass frame with a Ch*vy 350
> in it.  My local speed shop is drawing a blank.
> 
> Tim
> 76 Cutlass street stock
> 67 Delmont


Tim,

I would imagine the headers for a 1976 Chevelle 
with a 350 would be a direct fit.  

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Web Site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 15:46:06 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: R-12 to R-134 conversion

Mike;
R-22 is for a/cond on the house, doesn't work well in a auto.
Lou

- ----------
> From: Mike Bloomer <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: R-12 to R-134 conversion
 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 15:53:30 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: points to HEI, how?

Mike;
On ACs, R is for resistor, 46 is the heat range, and SZ has something to do
with electrode shape and extension. Have a book on plugs here somewhere,
too sore to find it right now. I use R46??, or whatever the manual called
for on the 75 350, gapped at .080. Have no problems.
Lou

- ----------
> From: Mike Bloomer <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: points to HEI, how?
> I ran into this also.  I experimented with both .060 and .080 gaps along
> with various heat ranges on my 72.  I finally settled on a .060 gap with
> AC R46SZ plugs.  If I'm thinking correctly, the R46 is the application 
> and the SZ is the heat range.  Of course, trying to get a parts clerk to
> give you a plug one heat range hotter/colder is a good way to get 
> moose looks.  :P  

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 16:18:56 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Missing

Master Ray;
I buy them by the gross now, and would be happy to send you some. Could
they get me for distr. illegal substances on the net if I don't charge for
them? Probably, they got Dr. Death and he didn't charge for his services
either. Back feels better, but both legs numb above the knees, well, not
numb, actually hurt along with the numbness. Haven't worked in 5 weeks, no
checks either, austerity program in effect here. Did take time to replace
front fender, grille, and front bumper on the Sonoma and get rid of the
idiot striping that came with it. Time for the 455/th400 swap now. Have the
time, don't have the cash. I somehow I knew I couldn't keep it stock. Told
Momma it was distressed, she has no idea what I'm talking about so I'm home
free. Austerity only applies to household items, NOT to my toys. Enough
pills, and the damn the house payment, full speed ahead. take care.
Lou

- ----------
> From: Master Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: Missing
> Date: Friday, April 16, 1999 10:45 PM
> 
> Master Lou!
> Hey what's going on?  Haven't been paying much attention to the list for
a
> while.  Busy with work and all.  What's with the pain pills?  How about
> sending some my way...

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 14:28:32 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: O-type rearend

Stephan wrote:
> 
> I currently have 2:56 gears in it and I am looking to put positraction in. I
> found a NOS unit in South Carolina but I would need to change my gears and I
> would like to keep them for gas mileage. I was looking at the Powertrax
> performance locker and talked to a tech guy that said he could help me if I
> knew the dimensions from the thrust face to the thrust face of the spider
> gears. And the dimension of the side gear also. I took the cover off and
> tried to measure everything, but without pulling it all apart it was
> impossible to get even a close approximation. Since this is a daily driver I
> was unwilling to disassemble it. I was hoping that maybe somebody would have
> this information available already.
> 
> Stephan
> 70 Gold Olds



Stephan,

I'm not quite understanding why he would want the 
measurements you list.  The inside spacing between 
the side gear thrust surfaces is the same for all 1967
thru 1970 Anti-Spin O axles.  Besides, this distance will 
have no effect on the position of the ring gear on the 
carrier in relation to the pinion centerline.  The offset 
of the ring gear mounting surface of the carrier is what 
allows which ratio ring and pinion to be used with which 
carrier.  NOT the side gear inside spacing.  Check with 
the tech guy again to confirm which dimentions he needs.  
We've got a 2.56 Anti-Spin carrier here that I could take
some measurements off of for you.  


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Web Site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 17:28:42 EDT
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: bushings

does anyone know where i can get a cheap set of polyurethane bushings?  i 
need a set for the front of a 70 442.

mikeytvb@aol.com
70 442 ht

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 17:44:18 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: History of Yellow...

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
 
> Nah... go ahead if you want! You always have good stuff to say...
> 
> Greg 

Well, OK, can't ask for a better invitation than that, can I?  I'll try
and keep it brief this time around.

The earliest record that I have of Oldsmobile using yellow paint was in
1948.  They may have used yellow before '48, but none of my information
goes back that far.  Here are the years, codes and color names from the
factory literature:

1948    23C Nankeen Cream ("C" is for convertible only)
1949    43C Nankeen Cream
1950    13C Canto Cream
1951    53C Canto Cream
1952    60  Canto Cream
1953    61  Lotus Cream
1954    61  Maize Cream
1955    61  Caspian Cream
1956    61  Citron Cream
1957    61  Coronado Yellow
1960    M   Citron
1962    M   Cameo Cream
1964    K   Tahitian Yellow
1965    Y   Saffron Yellow
1967    Y   Saffron (N.A. Toronado at start of production)
1968    Y   Saffron (N.A. Toronado at start of production)
1969    Y   Saffron (N.A. Toronado)(aka code 40)
1970    51  Sebring Yellow (extra-cost special-order intermediate only)
                           (standard on Rallye 350)
1972    56  Sunfire Yellow (intermediate only)
1973    51  Omega Yellow (Omega only)
1974    51  Omega Maize (Omega only)
1975    51  Sebring Yellow (Omega and Starfire only)
1976    57  Yellow (all exc. Starfire and Omega)
1976-79 51  Bright Yellow (Starfire and Omega only)
1977    50  Yellow (all exc. Starfire and Omega)
1979    54  Pastel Yellow (all exc. Starfire and Omega)
1980    50  Yellow (all models)
1981    51  Bright Yellow (Omega only)
1986-87 54  Yellow Beige (Firenza, Ciera, Supreme, Salon, Custom
Cruiser)
1992-93 55  Canyon Yellow (Ciera, '92 Toronado, Silhouette)

Now, that wasn't near as boring as last time, was it?

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 16:47:55 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Adjustable Front Suspension

Gary;
Go to east LA, the bean bandits have the market cornered on this one. No
flame, my mother was a Fernandez from Spain. Call Doug Thorley, all his
fabricators are Mex/Amer. They have to know a cheap way to set this up.
Every custom truck and car in this area has the "raisers" on them. Just
never asked anyone.
Lou

- ----------
> From: gjcouse <gjcouse@francomm.com>
> To: Olds Classic <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Adjustable Front Suspension
>     When your mentioning the Hydraulics aspects I fully agree with you.
I'd
> actually like to find out more about this. Not to "Play" hippity - hop
with
> the car but as you reference about the lowered "G"s. Quincy is lowered
> 1+1/2" to begin with. Than add the Ground Effects (that are functional as
to
> air flow), and there are situations where I would love to be able to hit
a
> button to raise the front end of him to clear an obstacle. Such as a
speed
> bump taller than most.  Most speed bumps "Just" clear the Air Dam. But
I've
> gotten Quincy into a municipality parking lot where the exit is a
different
> route than entry that I cleared. Don't you know the exit speed bump was
> taller than the entry one. I had to get 2 people to "Lift" the front end
> slightly as I drove Quincy over the bump. Otherwise the front air dam
> (fiberglass, production units will be urethane and 1" shorter) would be
in
> very expensive pieces all over the lot. So I surly could use a hydraulic
> system to "Lift" the front  slightly for clarence in situations like
these.
> Can anyone suggest how these others implement a lift system? Where would
I
> go to purchase such a system. I had thought about a front set of Air
Shocks
> but this is out. My suspension is finely tuned as is. I need a secondary
> system to accomplish my needs that fully retracts when not in immediate
use.
> The rear of Quincy has plenty of clearance. It's the front I need this
> lifting ability on. Particularly since Quincy will be making several road
> trips through the Summer + Fall to different shows and events. I know my
> local area and can avoid areas where the pavement is in questionable
> condition. On a road trip this will not be the case. I can see running
into
> trouble around any corner. Any suggestions anyone can offer would be
greatly
> appreciated.  Thanks,   Gary....

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 16:54:07 -0500 (CDT)
From: drolds350@webtv.net (Jim McKeague)
Subject: Console Lock Retainer

I am in need of the lock retainer for a 70-72 console. Mine is missing.
Anyone have one?
Thanks!

Jim McKeague
'70 Rallye 350
'70 Cutlass S W-31
http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html
Temporary E-Mail address: drolds350@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 16:56:23 -0500 (CDT)
From: drolds350@webtv.net (Jim McKeague)
Subject: Nuetral Safety Switch Bracket

I am need of the bracket that the nuetral safety switch hooks up to.
This is for a dualgate shifter out of a '70 Rallye. Does anyone have
one, or know where I could get one?
Thanks!

Jim McKeague
'70 Rallye 350
'70 Cutlass S W-31
http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html
Temporary E-Mail address: drolds350@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 16:59:12 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: History of Yellow...

Paul;
My brother in laws brother had a yellow 1948 Olds conv, my brother in law
used to borrow it to take my sister on dates, must have been around 1952 or
53, thats as far back as I can remember, I was four, but a car nut even
then.
Lou
- ----------
> From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: History of Yellow...
> Date: Saturday, April 17, 1999 4:44 PM
> 
> The earliest record that I have of Oldsmobile using yellow paint was in
> 1948.  They may have used yellow before '48, but none of my information
> goes back that far.  Here are the years, codes and color names from the
> factory literature:
> 
> 1948    23C Nankeen Cream ("C" is for convertible only)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 18:01:03 EDT
From: Rennoc@aol.com
Subject: Re: compression test

these didnt have the olds motor, it had a cadilac motor, junk. the motor will 
usally go around like 90,000. so if its cheap to buy cool, if not then dont 
even bother

kimba
85 442
 74 88

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 15:14:19 PDT
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: R-12 to R-134 conversion

Hi Fred,

Since you have connections in the A/C dept., how about sizing the 
condensing coils for the list.  We could send you the sizes we have 
for different years and you could send the new info to post to the 
FAQ.  So where can we get our made?  I know a listful of 
Oldsmobiler's that would greatly appreciate the input.

Texas heat coming soon,

Chris Rivier 
Austin,TX 
'66 Delta 88   The BEAST under CONSTRUCTION. 
'88 Festiva   ZIPPY 166K Parts Hauler.
http://www2.bladeti.com/cars

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 14:46:51 -0400
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: compression test

You're right, there is no coil wire.  Take the hot lead off the distributor.
If you're not sure which wire that is, just take them all off.  There's only
two or three probably.  Just remember which one goes where.



Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 3.8 Calais
Bucks County, PA
mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Brian Shankle
Sent: Friday, April 16, 1999 12:08 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca; olds_gbody@listbot.com
Subject: compression test


Hey guys and gals.......


I am going in a few minutes to look at a 1990 Cadillac Brougham.  I am
interested in doing a compression test on the car but don't know how to
do it on these newer cars.  My dad tells me to pull the coil wire off so
it won't start when I spin it over.  Makes sense, but I really don't
think there is a coil wire to be found.  To make a long story short,
what do I have to remove in place of the nonexistent(?) coil wire?

Olds content:  I have been told that there is a strong possibility that
it has an Olds built engine in it.  I know nothing about Caddys but
could tell if it was an Olds or not.  If it is it would be the 307
right?  I know that whatever GM engine it has, it is a 5.0 liter.  What
does the list think about this?
Thanks all,
Brian.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 18:35:26 -0400
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Rear end question...

Hey everybody,
    I think may have found a rear end for my '69 rag top - the guy that has it
says that it is out of a '76 Cutlass - will this bolt in?  In other words will 
it
work with my control arms - as far as width spacing, etc - or do I need the
control arms from the donor car - or worst case senerio it won't fit without 
being
modified.  Anybody know / have experience with this type of swap?  Please let 
me
know!
Thanks!
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a glide and highway gears :-(
(hopefully soon to have one of the two faults corrected with a set of 3.42's!)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 18:39:00 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Yellow paint on a 442?

Paul Hartlieb wrote:
> 
> Mountney, Scott wrote:
> >
> > The answer about the yellow shades in 1972 was absolutely right.
> 
> Scott, I'm not trying to get you worked up, but - no, it's not.  I've
> got the '72 color and trim book in front of me and there is only one
> yellow in there, code 56, Sunfire Yellow.

OK, I have something to add here.  Maybe what we have here is different
people having different interpretations of what yellow is.  Olds used a
color that was called Bamboo.  I think it falls in the beige category,
but some people may think of it as a yellow, I guess.  I've had people
remark to me at car shows that they think my car, which is actually
Sunfire Yellow, is Bamboo.  And I met a gentleman at a show with a
Bamboo convertible who will swear to his grave that it's Sunfire Yellow,
even after I showed him the color chips, numbers and verified the number
on his data plate.  So, if you're considering Bamboo to be a shade of
yellow, then there would be two shades available on '72s.

Bamboo was first used in '70, code #50, and was N.A. on Toronado.  In
'71, Bamboo was still code #50, but was a Toronado only color.  In '72
the number was changed to #81, still Bamboo, and the color seems to be
identical to the former #50 color, available on all models.  For '73 the
name was changed from Bamboo to Honey Beige, still code #81.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 18:40:45 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Rear end question...

Rebel1 wrote:
> 
> Hey everybody,
>     I think may have found a rear end for my '69 rag top - the guy that has 
it
> says that it is out of a '76 Cutlass - will this bolt in?  

I don't know, but I can tell you that the rear in my '72 Cutlass, which
is similar to your '69, came out a '73 Grand Prix, which is similar to a
'76 Cutlass.  Does that help?????

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 18:47:10 EDT
From: Anyolds4me@aol.com
Subject: My olds won't start

List:

My 71 cutlass won't start.  I put the key in and turn it, the generator light 
comes on, my power windows and headlights work, but the darn thing won't turn 
over!  The battery is new.  Any suggestions on where to start?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 18:51:05 EDT
From: Dshack4@aol.com
Subject: Primer...

Anyone have any suggestions on what kind of primer I should use?  The car was 
painted red in 84, and now it is flying off when I shoot the garden hose at 
it!  I am going to take all the paint off with a razor.  One thing I noticed, 
the primer under the paint is extrememly smooth.  Shouldn't the primer be 
semi-rough to all the new paint to "grab" it?  Any help with this is 
appreciated, as usual!

Thanks
David

71 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 23:04:47 +0000
From: John Fletcher <fletch@postmark.net>
Subject: Re: My olds won't start

 you may think I am crazy, but clean the connectors and stuff, same
thing happened to my 83 Custom cruiser. another thing you might try is
a new starter solenoid, I need to get a new one as it wont start when
the car is hot.
 John Fletcher

 1983 Custom Cruiser 307 with a billion miles! jk

Somebody wrote:

> List:
> 
> My 71 cutlass won't start.  I put the key in and turn it, the generator
light 
> comes on, my power windows and headlights work, but the darn thing won't
turn 
> over!  The battery is new.  Any suggestions on where to start?
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 16:20:59 PDT
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump to Carb line

Hi all,

From previous:...In addition, the line should be square ... (and) you 
may have to "fine-tune" the bends.

If all else fails and you mistakenly bend it too far or break it you 
can use a fuel line.  I had to do this on my '72.  I tried making a 
new aluminum fuel line with no success.  So then, I made the 
connecting end from the carb first and left some length to clear the 
air cleaner.  I made a similar one from the fuel pump and then 
connected the two with a fuel line (hose) that I cut to fit and 
clamped it on.  Not stock but it worked fine.

Just my $.02,

Chris Rivier 
Austin,TX

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 18:21:19 -0500 (CDT)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Dr. Olds - K. Wood)
Subject: Car Back Together- FIrst Ride

Hey Olds Listers...
I just took my car for it's first ride after a lot
of different projects this spring...
New Body Bushings, Restored Dash, Installed
all A/C items from scratch, Put in stock Dual
Gate shifter and console, New (old) AM/FM
stereo... Lots of fun stuff.  
Anyway- here's what I've got now.  I installed the dual gate shifter,
and it's fits great- console
and everything fits together just fine.  The shifter, when put in low
gear, seems to hesitate
just a little to put the car in low.  Feels like the
linkage wants to go just a bit further.  But, it also feels like the
shifter could use a bit more travel
in the Park direction as well.  I don't see any
way to adjust anything on this shifter/cable/ linkage assembly.  Is
there something I may
have missed?  The low gear is no big deal.
The park became a big deal because I was
trying to park on a slight incline, and the car
tried to park, but the car was rolling back a
bit with large click along the way.

Also developed a transmission fluid leak that
lands right on the exhaust manifolds.  I think
that the leak came after the transmission slippage.  

Any clues on the shifter?

Kevin

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 19:18:49 -0400
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: My olds won't start

New battery, eh?  Did you make sure you have a real good tight connection on
both pos and neg posts?  It's quite common that an inferior connection will
supply power to windows and radio, etc. without any complaints but it won't
even consider attempting to turn a starter.  You'd think that you'd at least
here it trying, but it's possible you won't.  If you keep turning the key
and you have a bad connection, you may start a fire from trying to force all
that current through a bad connection.  Then you'll have to pull off your
jacket to put it out.  And when the fire goes out, all the battery acid
smoke will go straight up your nose.  Then you'll have to leave your car
there and go for a ride in your friend's Falcon and buy a new battery from
the store you hate the most [i.e. Pep Boys] because you have no choice.  And
then you'll finf out that you fried the solenoid on your starter and you'll
have to go buy a new starter from that same store and replace it in a gravel
parking lot of a gas station in the middle of Oley PA.  Or something like
that.



Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 3.8 Calais
Bucks County, PA
mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Anyolds4me@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 1999 6:47 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: My olds won't start


List:

My 71 cutlass won't start.  I put the key in and turn it, the generator
light
comes on, my power windows and headlights work, but the darn thing won't
turn
over!  The battery is new.  Any suggestions on where to start?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 19:55:03 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: My olds won't start

Anyolds4me@aol.com wrote:
> 
> List:
> 
> My 71 cutlass won't start.  I put the key in and turn it, the generator light
> comes on, my power windows and headlights work, but the darn thing won't turn
> over!  The battery is new.  Any suggestions on where to start?

Won't turn over?  It can be the neutral safety switch is loose,
disconnected or broken.  Mine went bad and the car had the same symptoms
yours does.  On a column shift it's at the base of the steering column
near the firewall.  It's bolted to the column and has a curved shape to
wrap around it.  There's a plug with two wires that runs to it.  If you
jumper the two wires together and the car starts you've found the
problem.  I'ts an easy test if you know what you're looking for.  Don't
know where the switch is on a console shift.

Could also be a problem somewhere in the solonoid and it's wiring, the
key switch, or as Ray said, a bad battery connection.

Greg Pruett
72 vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais
73 98 LS

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 19:30:57 -0400
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Primer...

with a razor?

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Dshack4@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 1999 6:51 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Primer...


Anyone have any suggestions on what kind of primer I should use?  The car
was
painted red in 84, and now it is flying off when I shoot the garden hose at
it!  I am going to take all the paint off with a razor.  One thing I
noticed,
the primer under the paint is extrememly smooth.  Shouldn't the primer be
semi-rough to all the new paint to "grab" it?  Any help with this is
appreciated, as usual!

Thanks
David

71 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 20:00:56 EDT
From: CUTLASS442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Primer...

I took all the paint off the hood of a '75 Nova I had with a razor. The 
primer under it was also smooth.

<< 
 with a razor? >>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 20:01:32 -0400
From: "Brad Nicholson" <brad442@erols.com>
Subject: Spring Carlisle OCA Gathering

Attention All OCA Members and Other Who Want To Find Out About OCA !!!
Yes that includes EVERYONE on the mail list!

Myself and Glenn Williamson (OCA Atlantic SE Zone Director)  are going to
meet up for lunch at the OCA Road Show Space at Spring Carlisle on Friday
April 23 at 12:00 noon.  All OCA Members are invited to join in on the pig
out, and anyone else wanting to come over and say hey, you're invited to do
so.

This is a BYOF event - "Bring Your Own Food".  I'm not sure but there may be
soda/pop available, I'll check it out, but stop by during the morning to
find out.

The location of the spaces are IE 20-21.  Hosts are Ed and Bonnie Fochi.

Or you can see Ed & Bonnie TIS WEEKEND at:
Spring Englishtown at Raceway Park, Englishtown, NJ.  Located at spaces RC
78-79.  Hosted by Ed and Bonnie Fochi.

Hope to see a bunch of ya there at Carlisle!

PS - as of April 21, my new personal email address is changing to
brad442@mdo.net
You can always contact me thru webguy@oldsclub.org

Brad Nicholson (OCA's WebGuy)
OCA#18984
1987 442 W-42
1994 Eighty Eight LSS
Oldsmobile Club of America Web Site:
http://www.oldsclub.org

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1910
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