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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1921


oldsmobile-digest      Saturday, April 24 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1921



Re: First Olds Buying Help
Re: LOOONG First Olds Buying Help
Re: First Olds Buying Help
Compression Ratio (was Misleading)
Re: First Olds Buying Help
Re: Compression Ratio (was Misleading)
700R4 Adapter?
Re: First Olds Buying Help
Re: Compression Ratio (was Misleading)
My engine`s home
Re: My engine`s home
What a nice day.
Help- Bad Vibrations!
Re: 1970 W-31 Pace Car, whats it worth??
Re: More Adventures From Inside The Dash...LONG, INTERESTING
WHERE DOES THE GROUNDING STRAP GO?
Re: Lost Keys
Re: 700R4 Adapter?
Brothers
Re: 1970 W-31 Pace Car, whats it worth??
What's the difference??
Re: Brothers
Re: yahoo just bought 72 cutlass conv
Re: What's the difference??
Re: Lost Keys
Olds parts still for sale
Re: L35 ?? color page??she is gold??
Re: 230 messages a day
Rocket Talk NOW!!!
Re: Carlisle(where was everyone?)
Re: WHERE DOES THE GROUNDING STRAP GO?
Re: Carlisle(where was everyone?)
GM 502 and a Cutlass????
Temperature ???
blains pg.karls infocomin
Re: My engine`s home
Re: My engine`s home
Re: Brothers
Re: 1970 W-31 Pace Car, whats it worth??
Re: Please tell me that I will not be shut out...
Updated Mailing List Page--GO HERE!
Re: Temperature ???
Re: My engine`s home
Re: GM 502 and a Cutlass????
Re: Compression Ratio (was Misleading)
Updated Mailing List Page--GO HERE! (fwd)
Re: Compression Ratio (was Misleading)
Re: Compression Ratio (was Misleading)
Re: SW with a DIESEL engine (fwd)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 23 Nov 1998 16:45:02 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: First Olds Buying Help

John Livingston wrote:
 
<snip> 
> Specifically, I like the looks of the 68, but in looking at the Year One
> catalog, see only steering column bits for 69 on. 

That is a puzzler.  The Supercars catalog lists lots of components as 65-7? or
68-7?  The only real difference that I know of is the brakes and since you are
going to upgrade those anyway that's not a factor.

> Is that something to look
> out for? I also don't see, in the same catalog, gauge repairs offered for
> anything other than the clock & tach. One car I'm considering has a bad
> fuel gauge. If it's not the sender, am I in a world of hurt or do I just
> make a habit of not passing gas stations?

I wouldn't sweat that one:
	1) it's probably a bad wire or a sender
	2) you could buy a gauge from a wreckers, there're the same for 4 door
Cutlasses so there's lots around
	c) you could, in a pinch, put a different gauge in the same housing

> I'd like to upgrade to front disks on whatever we buy, assuming it doesn't
> already have them. Any estimates on what this might cost?

Up to $800 depending on how much work and parts searching you do yourself. 
Smart move, #1 on my list of faults with these cars.

> Would you consider it likely that engine's that've been rebuilt in the last
> few years have hardened valve seats?

I'm not sure about that, I would assume yes except I didn't do it on mine. 
With the higher nickel content in Olds's it is not supposed to be as big a
factor.

> Any other tips or suggestions (other than going to Carlisle - my wife
> already has me booked this weekend) would be greatly appreciated.

I wish I could go but there's a lot of miles between me and Carlisle.  I'd also
consider HEI, an anti-theft device, a hood lock, and a locking gas cap for a
daily driver.  But then again, I'm paranoid, I don't trust points :)
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 17:40:47 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: LOOONG First Olds Buying Help

Hi John,

> I've owned mostly (dare I say it) foreign stuff to date, still hanging on
> to a 68 280SL and and 86 VW Cabriolet.
Being from the same origin that these two fine rides I can assure you 
that you should hang on to both of them. Both of these cars are a driving 
proof for great quality and craftsmanship without fancy nicknacks... (if 
you ever want to sell the 68 Benz, give me a buzz!)

> looking at Eldos!) on a solid 68 to 72 Cutlass convt., hopefully near
> $10,000. This car will be used frequently to get me to work (20 mostly
> highway miles round trip), longer trips, and just general
> close-to-daily-driver duty.
Well, I started with Eldos too one day, t'il I found out that they have 
front wheel drive, yuck!
I think 10k is a good price to get what you are looking for...

> I've come across some nearly-affordable 442s that are very tempting. These
> are generally high mileage but well-maintained. I'm hoping to get some
> advice on any headaches to look out for.

... While 10k is not a real good price to start at for a turn key 442 
convertible. Main problem with 442s is that they have to be "real" 442s 
by their vin. (I think you can find info on the FAQ on 442.com in on 
vins) You should always post the vin and the body tag on the list and let 
the guys tell you what they mean even if you go for a cutlass only. There 
is also a section in the year one catalog on vins which is interesting 
for you to read. I would leave my hands off a 442 in most cases if I want 
a turn key car for 10k.

> Specifically, I like the looks of the 68, but in looking at the Year One
> catalog, see only steering column bits for 69 on. Is that something to look
> out for? I also don't see, in the same catalog, gauge repairs offered for
> anything other than the clock & tach. One car I'm considering has a bad
> fuel gauge. If it's not the sender, am I in a world of hurt or do I just
> make a habit of not passing gas stations?
Yeah, the 68 is the best looking design in my eyes. Well, you already found 
out that it is not as common as the 69-72 or even 67 and earlier. Many 
things have been there only in 68 and that is why the repro people don't 
think it is worth it to make a piece that will only fit the 68. 
Here is the solution: 
You have to look for a car that has the main things in operating 
condition which is no problem with 10k to spend. Then you will eventually 
run into a problem like the gauge and you will have to improvise. This 
means either modifying what is there to fit or get the part used! 
I was really (positively) shocked how many very good used parts are out 
there, parts that are not available in repros or nos. If that 68 has only 
the problem of a non working fuel gauge, don't worry! 

You can also find shops rebuilding these things for not too much money. 
Just imagine you are having a 40s or a 30s car. These people find shops 
that make the stuff from scratch. E. G. Alternators and Starters are 
something you can get rebuilt with sending them out. I am sure you will 
be able to find an autoelectronic shop that will be able to repair a 
defective gauge.

> I'd like to upgrade to front disks on whatever we buy, assuming it doesn't
> already have them. Any estimates on what this might cost?
This might cost close to 1k if you do most work yourself. 2k in a 
shop. Someone on the list did a conversion lately (himself) and had dealer 
prices for parts and he was over $700. This is not cheap but defenitely 
worth the investment/hassle since you want to drive this every day! If 
the car you are looking at does not have the conversion include it in you 
calculation.

> Would you consider it likely that engine's that've been rebuilt in the last
> few years have hardened valve seats?
If you buy a car with a rebuilt engine you must insist on receipts or at 
least pictures of the parts and what has been done. This is essential not 
only with regards to the heads. 
No, rebuild does not eqal with hardened valve seats! (I rebuilt my 350 
and left the heads alone except polishing the valve seats which I did 
myself. The heads were still okay and I figured I will do it at a later 
time where I am going to get a nice valve job and all the goodies done to 
them.)

Engine and body work are the most scary things when you buy a restored 
car. It may look great from the outside but fail in no time if it is not 
done right. I remember "engine rebuilts" people were telling us on the 
list about that were nothing else then a hone plus re-ring! Also we hear 
from people with paint falling off when they wash their car with the 
garden hose! 

I told you how to avoid buying blind with the engine: receipts and pics. 
Same thing with the paint job. I would recommend buying a car with an 
older (good looking) paint job (about 5 years old). If it is still good 
chances are high it will be nice for another 5 - 10 years.
Also look for bondo in wheelwells (use magnet). Try to find an expert e. 
g. at your local olds chapter or another classic car guru. It usually 
helps to be not the only one who decides. You can ask the list all kinds 
of questions but there is nobody there that can knock on the fenders, 
listen to the engine etc. 

You should also inform yourself about the original look of the car you 
want to buy. You should assure numbers matching, original paint and 
interior colors, original engine compartment detailing. If you are not on 
the hunt for an original car this is your choice but be aware that all the 
jegs and summit aftermarket parts in the world will not raise a classics 
value, it will actually decrease it. (Same thing with 442 clones. They 
would be worth more as the all original grandma-cutlass.)

Well, that was lotsa typing. I hope it helps. Most of this reflects my 
opinions and how I would approach a buy like this. I bought my car as a 
project and I just see what you can do wrong or cheat on when you do a 
resto. I am sure many people get tempted and take short cuts which is 
kinda scary.

Still: If you would buy a new Lexus you would have lost those 10k in the 
firs 2 years of owning it. The cutlass will safe you a lot of money and 
give you 100 times more looks and fun and car-satisfaction....

George 
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 19:08:48 EDT
From: Jim68442@aol.com
Subject: Re: First Olds Buying Help

John, 

Glad to read that you find vintage Oldsmobiles to your liking! I own a '68 
442 Holiday coupe. Parts are a little hard to come by for the 68 but I think 
it's well worth the hunt. 

When you find one that you like, take a look at the bottom of the windshield 
on a rainy day. If you see condensation on the inside of the glass chances 
are good that there is significant rust under the trim. Mine was so bad that 
the windshield fell out when the body guy took off the trim. He gave me 
pictures showing 6 screwdrivers poking through the firewall. I don't know how 
he fixed it but he did. All's fine now.

Other than that, check for the usual things like rust, oil consumption, etc. 
Ask the owner if you can get it looked at by a mechanic. If they say no move 
on.

Happy future Oldsmobiling!

Jim Ruddell

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 17:21:10 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Compression Ratio (was Misleading)

With those TRW pistons, Fel-Pro gaskets and shaved J-heads, I am supposed to
be running around 9.5CR.  Well, the other day I tried Mid-Grade fuel (89
octane) and today I tried Regular (87) octane, and the thing runs fine even
with a mild advance curve.  I bet that my true CR is probably around 9.0,
what do you guys think.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 19:27:08 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: First Olds Buying Help

John Livingston wrote:

<snip>
> Specifically, I like the looks of the 68, but in looking at the Year One
> catalog, see only steering column bits for 69 on.

Is it in '69 when they included the ign. key into the steering column? Hence
the change in column because of the larger column over for the switch and
column lock.   Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, November 23, 1998 12:45 PM
Subject: Re: First Olds Buying Help


>
> John Livingston wrote:
>
> <snip>
> > Specifically, I like the looks of the 68, but in looking at the Year One
> > catalog, see only steering column bits for 69 on.
>
> That is a puzzler.  The Supercars catalog lists lots of components as
65-7? or
> 68-7?  The only real difference that I know of is the brakes and since you
are
> going to upgrade those anyway that's not a factor.
>
> > Is that something to look
> > out for? I also don't see, in the same catalog, gauge repairs offered
for
> > anything other than the clock & tach. One car I'm considering has a bad
> > fuel gauge. If it's not the sender, am I in a world of hurt or do I just
> > make a habit of not passing gas stations?
>
> I wouldn't sweat that one:
> 1) it's probably a bad wire or a sender
> 2) you could buy a gauge from a wreckers, there're the same for 4 door
> Cutlasses so there's lots around
> c) you could, in a pinch, put a different gauge in the same housing
>
> > I'd like to upgrade to front disks on whatever we buy, assuming it
doesn't
> > already have them. Any estimates on what this might cost?
>
> Up to $800 depending on how much work and parts searching you do yourself.
> Smart move, #1 on my list of faults with these cars.
>
> > Would you consider it likely that engine's that've been rebuilt in the
last
> > few years have hardened valve seats?
>
> I'm not sure about that, I would assume yes except I didn't do it on mine.
> With the higher nickel content in Olds's it is not supposed to be as big a
> factor.
>
> > Any other tips or suggestions (other than going to Carlisle - my wife
> > already has me booked this weekend) would be greatly appreciated.
>
> I wish I could go but there's a lot of miles between me and Carlisle.  I'd
also
> consider HEI, an anti-theft device, a hood lock, and a locking gas cap for
a
> daily driver.  But then again, I'm paranoid, I don't trust points :)
> --
>
> Cliff Simpson
> mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
> '69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
> http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 19:30:09 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: Compression Ratio (was Misleading)

Just do a compression check. You'll know for sure your exact CR than.
Whouldn't be a bad Idea to see how well this engine sealed all around as to
rings, gaskets etc.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Igor Todorovic <igor455@home.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, April 23, 1999 7:21 PM
Subject: Compression Ratio (was Misleading)


> With those TRW pistons, Fel-Pro gaskets and shaved J-heads, I am supposed
to
> be running around 9.5CR.  Well, the other day I tried Mid-Grade fuel (89
> octane) and today I tried Regular (87) octane, and the thing runs fine
even
> with a mild advance curve.  I bet that my true CR is probably around 9.0,
> what do you guys think.
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 17:37:49 -0600
From: "Blaine S." <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: 700R4 Adapter?

I can get a rebuilt 700R4 for $200, and I'm thinkin' about putting it behind
the 455 in my '72 Cutlass Supreme.  Where can I get the adapter?  Anything
else I will need?  I checked the FAQ, but it wasn't really specific.

Thanks,
Blaine

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 18:19:28 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: First Olds Buying Help

> <snip>
> > Specifically, I like the looks of the 68, but in looking at the Year One
> > catalog, see only steering column bits for 69 on.
> 
> Is it in '69 when they included the ign. key into the steering column? Hence
> the change in column because of the larger column over for the switch and
> column lock.   Gary....

Yes, it is in 69 when the whole steering column gets a bigger diameter. 
E. g. a reason why a later wheel won't fit. 

George

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 19:49:27 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: Compression Ratio (was Misleading)

Igor Todorovic wrote:
> 
> With those TRW pistons, Fel-Pro gaskets and shaved J-heads, I am supposed to
> be running around 9.5CR.  Well, the other day I tried Mid-Grade fuel (89
> octane) and today I tried Regular (87) octane, and the thing runs fine even
> with a mild advance curve.  I bet that my true CR is probably around 9.0,
> what do you guys think.

If you have an aluminum manifold it will allow you to run lower octane
than with an iron manifold.  Aluminum dissapates heat better and the
air/fuel charge is cooler.  Since the charge is cooler it is less likely
to detonate in the chamber.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cultass Calais
73 98 LS

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 18:50:07 -0500 (EST)
From: hurst455@webtv.net (Corey Putnam)
Subject: My engine`s home

  Picked up my engine today and am looking at the dyno results now. It
topped out at 392HP at 5200RPM and 466lbs of torque at 3800RPM, not what
I wanted but it`s going in anyway. I didn`t make too much of a fuss over
it because it come in under budget (surprise!)
  It looks like it ran between 40 and 43psi of oil pressure the whole
run, is that good, bad or average? They only dynoed between 2900RPM to
5400RPM. Is this standard not to get the readings below the 2900RPM
mark?
  The engine ended up at 9.0-1 comp, not the 9.5 I asked for.(no
surprise!) Does anyone recognize this rocker assy no. 1332-16? I asked
for Comp Cams roller rockers and am wondering if that is them? They are
listing a 307 balancer installed, is this OK? Did all of the engines and
years interchange? The balancer thing seems weird to me.
  This will be going in my 3800lb 75 H/O, with th400, 3.42 posi turning
275/60/R15, can anyone please recomend a good torque converter to use?
The speed shop recomended the TCI 2400-2600 converter,(forget the actual
name) any suggestions.  

Corey Putnam
75 H/O W-30
87 Regal w/Olds 455
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930
  
 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 18:58:05 -0500 (EST)
From: hurst455@webtv.net (Corey Putnam)
Subject: Re: My engine`s home

  One more thing I was told about the dyno run was that "if I had wanted
to see better numbers we could have flipped a switch and produced 30
more HP and 40 more lbs of torque. Something we do when our customers
are really expecting some big numbers." Doesn`t that just grab you by
the boys?

Corey Putnam
75 H/O W-30
87 Regal w/Olds 455
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930
  
 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 18:00:17 -0500 (CDT)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Dr. Olds - K. Wood)
Subject: What a nice day.

Took today off and washed, waxed, buffed, poilished, scrubbed--
completely cleaned my
Cutlass today for Jefferson on Sunday.  It needs a paint job and some
minor body work,
but it looks fantastic now anyway!

I will be shopping for parts at Jefferson on
Saturday morning.  So all you nice guys that
are going to be there too, if you see a nice
8-track player for a 72, you should not buy it,
because that is my job!

Just kidding- it's a free for all, and if it's anything
like usual- out of the couple thousand vendors,
there will only be a few selling Olds parts.

Doesn't matter to me, it's fun!  Don't forget to
get the big icecream bars that they sell there...
I know my son will not let me forget!  (If is wasn't for those dang
icecream bars, I'm not
sure my wife and son would go.  They like cars,
but they really like icecream!

Kevin
Dr-Olds@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 19:11:27 -0500 (CDT)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Dr. Olds - K. Wood)
Subject: Help- Bad Vibrations!

Here is a problem I really need ideas with...
At 80 Miles per hour- or so, I get a pulsating
vibration.  I've tried a lot of things, but I just
can't narrow it down yet.  Here's the deal...

Non-original 455 engine.  Long tail TH400,
GTO 3.55 10 bolt rear.  15" bolt on center caps
from a 73 or 74 Cutlass.  235 70R15's in front,
275 60R15's out back.  

Vibrates only at this speed- maybe higher too, 
haven't tried it.---
Using same RPM range in 2nd gear- no vibration---
Have had tires & wheels balanced- that's is not it. (even used an extra
set of wheels- no difference)---
Had new driveshaft made last winter- balanced.
- -
Had rearend re-geared and rebuilt- all new everything - last year---
The vibration is definitely not in the front end- had an alignment done-
don't feel any vibration
in the steering wheel whatsoever.
- ---
This vibration has travelled from one car to 
another-  the whole drivetrain was used in my
last Cutlass- every nut and bolt.  

- ---I'm thinking maybe it's in the transmission now- because that's the
only thing I haven't
messed with.  The problem has been with me
ever since about 7 years ago when I had the
engine and transmission built- at the same time-  I have pretty good
faith in the motor- but
is it possible it could cause this vibration only
at 80mph, but not at the same rpm under no
or different load conditions?

Sorry about the long message, but I would like
the problem figured out.  I really thought I was on to something with
the driveshaft...  But a brand new one- fresh tube, all new joints, and
balanced didn't change a dang thing.

Help?!?!?!?!

Kevin- Hartford, WI
Dr-Olds@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 20:26:15 -0400
From: J&T <tjf26@gte.net>
Subject: Re: 1970 W-31 Pace Car, whats it worth??

According to the description, it says this is a matching numbers car with the
ram air. I didn't see the OAI air cleaner and it has a 400ci motor. Last year I
believe for that was 69. Chevy Rims:(-

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 19:12:36 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: More Adventures From Inside The Dash...LONG, INTERESTING

>...meaning that you haven't replaced the temperature warning light 
>switch with a temperature sending unit yet?

Correct.  However, I picked that up today.  More to come.

>Agreed; it sounds like you have the leads reversed, assuming your 
>engine does indeed have both a pressure sending unit and a pressure 
>warning switch installed somewhere now (such as teed onto the same 
>port).

THIS IS NOT TRUE.  I have ONE sending unit - a variable one, on a stalk
that brinks it 45deg out from the block.  The donor car that I got the
gauges off of only had this one type of sender - there are two
possibilities here.  Either (a) cars with gauges didn't have idiot lights,
or (b) if they did, I can't seem to make both the light and the gauge work
correctly, and I'll need both kinds of sending units if I want them both to
work.

>This is a little too confusing to diagnose; let me go back to first 
>principles: What pressure sensors do you have on the engine now? You 
>have one _switch_ type for the low-pressure light, and one 
>sending-unit type for the gauge, right? You have a separate wire for 
>each which goes nowhere but between sending unit and dashboard, right?

Again, wrong on both counts - I have one oil pressure sending unit, and it
goes from the sender, to the instrument cluster harness, and from there is
splits into two signals, one following the printed circuit to the light and
one wire going to the gauge.  The 1984 Electrical Troubleshooting Manual
confirms that this is the way is should go.  I understand why you think it
should have two sending units, or if it only had one that the signal should
only go to one or the other (gauge or light)...

Will write more on this later - have to go outside now and work on the car
in daylight...
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 20:31:18 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: WHERE DOES THE GROUNDING STRAP GO?

On the advice of Rock Man (who replied to my "More Adventures From Inside
The Dash" thread), I checked the grounds inside my engine compartment.  I
pulled GENTLY on the copper-colored, braided ground wire that was secured
with a bolt to the firewall and ran down to "I don't know where", and it
just kept on coming, until I was holding the frayed, broken other end.  I
remember this wire got VERY taut when I was raising and lowering the
engine/tranny as part of my work on the rear main seal, but I CAN'T find
the other end (which is presumably still attached).

I have purchased a replacement ground strap.  I cannot, however, find where
the other end of the cable was connected to, and neither the Chassis Manual
nor the Electrical Troubleshooting Manual wants to tell me.

Who know the answer to this very important (to me, anyway) question?  I've
got car guts hanging everywhere, and I don't want to put it back together
(and resume trying to get my gauges to work) until I've got this fixed.

HELP!
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 21:29:25 -0400
From: "Jason Labay" <jlabay@tdin.com>
Subject: Re: Lost Keys

We have keys made for cars back as far as the 60's in our towyard.  The
ignition does not have to come out.  Our locksmith makes a key right there
on the spot.  Call around to the local locksmiths and they should be able to
do this for you.

Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio
80 442 W-30




>Is there any business that makes up keys from your V.I.N.?  Someone lost
>
>my son's car keys and he did not have spares.  It is for a 87 Oldsmobile
>
>Calais.  The local dealerships provide that service but they cannot go
>back to 87.  They only go back to either 88 or 89.  Any ideas of any
>businesses with the ability to do Oldsmobile keys for this year (1987)?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 21:32:24 EDT
From: FIFTY7C@aol.com
Subject: Re: 700R4 Adapter?

I think these adapters are readily available through parts stores. I had a 
700R4 put on my olds 350 and the trans shop knew they were available.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 21:37:18 EDT
From: FIFTY7C@aol.com
Subject: Brothers

Has anyone out there used Brothers for parts lately? I called in an order 
over 2 weeks ago. After a week had passed I called to check on it. I was told 
there had been a back order and the parts were now in. Another week, no 
parts. No communication. Unless this is a one time glitch, I will never use 
them again.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 21:44:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: vfquick442@webtv.net (markas)
Subject: Re: 1970 W-31 Pace Car, whats it worth??

$2500.00 tops,Seller could use the money to buy more Crack.Pace car???
hard top,ch`vy wheels??      Now Olds content.Bought working am/fm for
my 70 442.Turns out it is from full size car. Can I change the face so
that the correct plain sliding bar(am/fm) from my radio to the new
radio?   TIA
Markas

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 18:45:14 -0700
From: BC <beastmaster@earthlink.net>
Subject: What's the difference??

Can anyone tell me the difference between a 1969 Olds 442 Coupe and a 1969
Olds 442 Hardtop????????????
Thanks,
Bruce
70 Delta 88 Conv, 350
75 Delta 88 Royale Conv., 455

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 20:32:28 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Brothers

> Has anyone out there used Brothers for parts lately? I called in an order 
> over 2 weeks ago. After a week had passed I called to check on it. I was 
told 
> there had been a back order and the parts were now in. Another week, no 
> parts. No communication. Unless this is a one time glitch, I will never use 
> them again.

Many people on the list including me have made similar experiences. 
Obviously they have to backorder almoust EVERYTHING! It seems they have a 
garage for storage... if you are in a hurry and want no hassle, never 
order from them. There are other good resources. If you need more infos 
on catalogs email me privately.

George

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 21:52:23 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: yahoo just bought 72 cutlass conv

KarlAunan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 99-04-23 00:53:01 EDT, you write:
> 
> << vin...3j67k2m227034 
   
> Seriously, your vin says that it is a 1972 car not made in Lansing.

Unfortunately that isn't correct.  Here we go...

3 - Oldsmobile
J - Cutlass Supreme
67 - convertible
K - L34 350, 4bbl, single exhaust
2 - 1972
M - Lansing plant
227034 - built sequence 

> the 350 should be stronger then my 76  ??

'72 350 - 180hp @ 4000rpm, 275 lb-ft torque @ 2800, 8.5/1 comp.

'76 350 - can't find any specs other than 8.5/1 comp. - Olds apparently
wasn't giving hp/torque specs during this period - not even in the '77
shop manual.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 21:05:13 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: What's the difference??

Coupes have the "dreaded post" - an immovable metal bar that divides the
front windows from the back.  Hardtops have no post.

Roll down all the windows in the car, and close all the doors.  If you can
move your hand freely from the windshield to the C-pillar without hitting
anything, you have a hardtop.  If you run into a metal post 3/4 of the way
down, you have a coupe.

I guess another way to say this is "Hardtops have no B-pillar".

At 06:45 PM 4/23/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Can anyone tell me the difference between a 1969 Olds 442 Coupe and a 1969
>Olds 442 Hardtop????????????
>Thanks,
>Bruce
>70 Delta 88 Conv, 350
>75 Delta 88 Royale Conv., 455
> 
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 22:06:11 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Lost Keys

Sue Lambert wrote:
> 
> Is there any business that makes up keys from your V.I.N.?  Someone lost
> 
> my son's car keys and he did not have spares.  It is for a 87 Oldsmobile
> 
> Calais.  The local dealerships provide that service but they cannot go
> back to 87.  They only go back to either 88 or 89.  Any ideas of any
> businesses with the ability to do Oldsmobile keys for this year (1987)?
> 
> Thanks,
> Sue

Try Oldsmobile Customer Assistance - 1-800-442-OLDS.  This is for
roadside service for cars under new car warranty.  They may be able to
provide you with key numbers for your '87.  I used to call them for key
numbers when I worked at a dealership.  Maybe they don't go back to
'87.  If that doesn't work try 1-800-255-OLDS - the Oldsmobile
information number.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 22:13:24 -0400
From: "R. Grant" <kgrant442@home.com>
Subject: Olds parts still for sale

I have a fresh rebuilt Olds carb for sale will have the part number next
week. I think it is a 4 speed carb as it has no provisions for ported vacuum
or for a kick down cable looking to get about $200 It was built for a 375 HP
350 complete upgrade to handle the extra HP Can get pictures if anyone is
interested.

These parts are still for sale

Flywheel 64-67 Mondello race unit never used still new in box 200$ US
C-heads 67 need rebuild 100$US
#8 heads running condition best offer
70 350 Cast Iron intake  best offer
73 350 Cast Iron intake best offer
67 425 Cast Iron intake 2bl best offer
67 425 Crank Mach. .10
Bearings for 425 Crank & cam (M77)
Frost plugs 425
Make an offer
425 block 67 core 100$ US
425 flexplate best offer
2-sets 80's 14" rims painted body colour best offer
2-sets 85 14" chrome rims 1-with rubber 50$US & 150$US
2-80 Front fenders rust free 50$ US each
1-Front header 80 Cutlass Supreme 150$US good condition
2-doors 79-80 Cutlass power Best offer no rust
Bellhousing 71 Cutlass 75$US or best offer
M21 Trans needs syncros and cone cost 500$Can for rebuild about 350 $US Best
offer can get pictures
if needed

I do have pictures of the C-heads & Flywheel on my web site @
http://members.home.net/kgrant442
or send me an e-mail costs will not include shipping
kgrant442@home.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 22:13:23 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: L35 ?? color page??she is gold??

Randy Hermsen wrote:
> 
> Thanks Lou went to vin. page   whats the L35  stand  for in this 350 

L35 was the option code for Rocket 350s for Delta 88 & Royale models.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 21:32:08 -0500
From: "Glen Hankins" <hankins5@hit.net>
Subject: Re: 230 messages a day

What?!  Only 230?  If list traffic gets below 150 a day I'm disappointed--I
feel like I'm missing something.
Some people just don't appreciate the wealth of valuable information
available on this list  (please insert tongue firmly in cheek).

GBH

- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrew C. Green <acg_o@hotmail.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, April 23, 1999 4:56 pm
Subject: Re: 230 messages a day


>> I thought it would be a good idea to sign my e- mail address up on
>> your site, but 230 messages a day  is a little ridiculous. so,
>> please remove my name from your mailing list.
>
>...leading me to ask once again whether it wouldn't be a better idea
>to have new subscribers added to the Digest by default? They could
>migrate to the real-time list once they understood the traffic levels.
>
>-- Andy
>
>_______________________________________________________________
>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 21:33:02 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Rocket Talk NOW!!!

Seems to be lots of traffic on the list. Move some of it to the rocket 
talk if you are in the mood! NOW!

www.lyrea.com/~buehner


See ya, George

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 23:05:31 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: Carlisle(where was everyone?)

I was there and you were not....space IE-20...Ed Fochi's spaces ..at 12:15 
and Ed said about 5 or 6 people were there at 12 and then split.....man , I 
thought at least 25 people would be there shooting the sh_t....talk to you 
soon..
Yes my wife loves me!! ....she let me go...talk to you soon, Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 23:18:34 EDT
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: WHERE DOES THE GROUNDING STRAP GO?

it goes to the back of the cylinder head.  that's it.

mikeytvb@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 23:41:58 -0400
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Carlisle(where was everyone?)

That's what Stefan Gadecki and myself were wondering yesterday. High noon at
the stage and only us two showed up!

Randy


> I was there and you were not....space IE-20...Ed Fochi's spaces ..at 12:15
> and Ed said about 5 or 6 people were there at 12 and then split.....man ,
I
> thought at least 25 people would be there shooting the sh_t....talk to you
> soon..
> Yes my wife loves me!! ....she let me go...talk to you soon, Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 00:36:14 -0400
From: Don Foster <dfoster@uky.campuscwix.net>
Subject: GM 502 and a Cutlass????

Hi,
  Has anyone tried putting one of these in a 71 Cutlass? Will it work?
Before everybody gets angry, this car already has a Chevelle rearend and
"76" 455. A brand new 502hp 502 engine is considerably cheaper than building
a 455 the way I want it. If I ever get wealthy I'll go all Olds but for now
I need my car back to life!!! Fast is the Key here. Big block is also a
must. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Don

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 02:00:17 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Temperature ???

Here is my dilemna. It is on my 72 442 with my 455 motor. I have an Auto
Meter electronic temp gauge installed. The temperature gauge would read
fine until around 170* and then it would act funny. When stopped at a light
the temperture would climb from 180* to around 220* in less than 2-3
seconds. I would check the upper radiator hose and it would not even be
that hot. Once I start moving the temperture drops from 220* to 170* in 2
seconds. I know it would be impossible for the coolant to vary like that.
So I replaced the gauge along with the sending unit. Yet it still does the
same thing!!!

I don't know what is causing it to do that. The gauge is hooked up
correctly. What should I change, the thermostat? It is fairly new 160*
thermostant by Stant (heavy duty). I was thinking a possible air pocket in
the cooling system but I ran the car until the thermostat opened and then
for 5 minutes more with the radiatoir cap off. I believe the air pocket
would have already come out...

Should I hook up a mechanical gauge to see if the temperature still jumps
around? 
HELP get my Olds on the road. I am getting frustrated!! HELP


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: 23 Apr 99 23:57:15 PDT
From: Randy Hermsen <76Cutlass@netscape.net>
Subject: blains pg.karls infocomin

Hi blaine very strange because I believe I gave the 72 to my wife it suits her
and the blue 76 suits me Ive got alot of work to do on her maybe karl can help
with putting the dash back together    Hi karl Ill get you the mileage  and
the block  #s head  #s and cowl tag info why is it that you say no lansing car
vin I thought said lansing 3j67k2m227034 maybe brain freeze or really tired
when I looked last night??
Very cool web pg. Blaine  the olds underground  
                      Randy
                       76 cutlass supreme
                         72 cutlass supreme covert.
                         

____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://webmail.netscape.com.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 02:11:46 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: My engine`s home

Pettrix@prodigy.net

> 
>   Picked up my engine today and am looking at the dyno results now. It
> topped out at 392HP at 5200RPM and 466lbs of torque at 3800RPM, not what
> I wanted but it`s going in anyway. I didn`t make too much of a fuss over
> it because it come in under budget (surprise!)

>   It looks like it ran between 40 and 43psi of oil pressure the whole
> run, is that good, bad or average? They only dynoed between 2900RPM to
> 5400RPM. Is this standard not to get the readings below the 2900RPM
> mark?

As far as the oil readings not showing beow the 2900RPm mark is OK. This is
because the computer does not read the HP figures then so all the other
reading are not read also. A s far as 40-43psi of oil pressure it is THE
MINIMUM of what Mondello recommends for the 455 motor. The question here is
what type of viscosity of oil did they use? If it was 5W-30 then that is
why the pressure was that. Mondello recommends 20W-50. Oil pressure can
change 10pounds more if using 5w-30 to 20w-50.


>   The engine ended up at 9.0-1 comp, not the 9.5 I asked for.(no
> surprise!) Does anyone recognize this rocker assy no. 1332-16? I asked
> for Comp Cams roller rockers and am wondering if that is them? They are
> listing a 307 balancer installed, is this OK? Did all of the engines and
> years interchange? The balancer thing seems weird to me.

I believe the 307 is a different balancer than the 455 balancer. This is
because the  balancer listed in catalogs fits 350-403-455 motors. The 307
has a different part#. I would check into that...

>   This will be going in my 3800lb 75 H/O, with th400, 3.42 posi turning
> 275/60/R15, can anyone please recomend a good torque converter to use?
> The speed shop recomended the TCI 2400-2600 converter,(forget the actual
> name) any suggestions.  

I think you would be better off with a 11" 2500-2800 stall. Mondello sells
them. They have the anti-ballooning plate. This is helpful because the
torque of the motor tends to drive the torque converter towards the motor
wearing the crank area exposed. 
> 



> Corey Putnam
> 75 H/O W-30
> 87 Regal w/Olds 455
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930
>   
>  
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 02:12:39 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: My engine`s home

What type of switch is he talking about?
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Corey Putnam <hurst455@webtv.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: My engine`s home
> Date: Friday, April 23, 1999 6:58 PM
> 
>   One more thing I was told about the dyno run was that "if I had wanted
> to see better numbers we could have flipped a switch and produced 30
> more HP and 40 more lbs of torque. Something we do when our customers
> are really expecting some big numbers." Doesn`t that just grab you by
> the boys?
> 
> Corey Putnam
> 75 H/O W-30
> 87 Regal w/Olds 455
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930
>   
>  
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 02:14:09 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Brothers

Brothers is the worst!! I ordered from them and waited over 3 months!!! I
will never order from them again!!
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: FIFTY7C@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Brothers
> Date: Friday, April 23, 1999 8:37 PM
> 
> Has anyone out there used Brothers for parts lately? I called in an order

> over 2 weeks ago. After a week had passed I called to check on it. I was
told 
> there had been a back order and the parts were now in. Another week, no 
> parts. No communication. Unless this is a one time glitch, I will never
use 
> them again.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 01:35:38 -0600
From: "ed" <ed@techniflite.com>
Subject: Re: 1970 W-31 Pace Car, whats it worth??

I'm surprised it doesn't have the original W-31 pace car center caps on the
wheels!  LOL
- ----- Original Message -----
From: J&T <tjf26@gte.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, April 23, 1999 6:26 PM
Subject: Re: 1970 W-31 Pace Car, whats it worth??


> According to the description, it says this is a matching numbers car with
the
> ram air. I didn't see the OAI air cleaner and it has a 400ci motor. Last
year I
> believe for that was 69. Chevy Rims:(-
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 01:40:45 PDT
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Please tell me that I will not be shut out...

Hi all and Brian,

Well fellow alumnist (Univ of TX).  I graduated in '93.  Four years 
ago I bought my 2nd Olds.  I was still driving my college car, a '88 
Festiva, sounds like it's powered by screaming banshee squirrels from 
campus.  Anyway, I knew it wouldn't last forever.  Built like a tin 
cup.  Soon to be on its last leg, I started looking for a new car.

When I first went to college I had a '72 Cutlass Supreme.  I 
reluctantly had to sell it for the same reasons you mentioned 
reliability and lack of funds.  So, I started looking for a Cutlass.  
My girlfriend and sister thought I was possessed and crazy.  I 
started looking when I didn't even have any money, much less a wod of 
cash.  Every weekend I would look through the classifieds for a 
suitable project car.  I consulted friends, my mechanic, and 
strangers on the street(,not really).  At the time my friend Tanya 
was also looking for a '64 F. Falcon.  So we helped each other search.

After seeing a handful of over priced rust buckets, I found a '66 
Olds in the classifieds.  It was in the paper for about a month.  It 
started out at $1200,2nd owner, runs good, blah, blah, blah.  Four 
weeks later, still in the paper.  I called the seller to check out 
the car.  By now it was down to $900.  I figured it was a little 
rough.  A part-time daily driver, but it needed some work.  The 
seller answered, he said it was $700.  So, I checked it out.  It 
wasn't a '72 Cutlass, but maybe a reasonable second car.  It was more 
solid than others I had seen.  I took it to my mechanic.  He checked 
out the mechanicals.  I talked the guy down to $600 and the baby was 
now mine.  It needed a new front end.

The car sat for 2 more years with minimal miles added to it.  I think 
I put 500 miles in the first 2 years.  It was my project car.  I also 
bought a truck, and then sold it.  I still had two cars my Festi and 
my Olds.  Last Fall my Festi's tranny went out.  So I dropped some 
cash into the Olds and now it's my daily driver.

Spring 98, some idiot rear ended my Olds.  It was almost totalled 
out.  I had it fixed.  December 98, I redid my whole front end and 
bought new tires and 15x7 rims.  Feb '99, some fool hits my right 
front fender.  My car is almost totalled out again.

It is currently in the shop.  I originally bought the car since it 
had clean lines and 95% straight.  Two wrecks later (while parked) 
...It has been pulled and banged straight with minimal bondo.  All 
the trim has been taken off,cleaned and polished.  Next week, I pick 
up my '66 Olds Delta 88 with a newly fresh, head to toe, GOLD paint 
job.  Yeah Buddy!!!!!!

Cost:  $4500  +/-  a few $100's

So Brian, there is hope.  I saw a little old lady at Randalls, at 
Koenig and Lamar,with a '67 Cutlass.  Silver/Blue.  Wow. 66k mi.  
Original owner.  She complained, everyone always asks her if she is 
going to sell it.  Sure, I asked.

Happy Cruisin',

Chris Rivier 
Austin,TX 
'66 Delta 88   The BEAST under CONSTRUCTION. 
'88 Festiva   ZIPPY 166K Lil' Parts Hauler. 
WrEck PiX @ http://www2.bladeti.com/cars
pix page and history soon...


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 03:07:25 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Updated Mailing List Page--GO HERE!

Just added some new, improved links on my List FAQ page
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

Updated with smoother, click-through links to subscribe or unsubscribe from the
Classic Olds Mailing List, as well as the G-body Olds Mailing List, with her 
new
Majordomo Server.  I'll mention, again, that I invite, and request, all of you
to put the http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm link in your signature
files, especially if you post to the list(s) often.  This, theoretically, will
make it more difficult for the visually impaired folks to have trouble knowing
how to get off these lists.....  We all know how those stories go, right?  :(

Also note, there are no graphics on the page, so loading is practically
instantaneous.  For those who haven't seen it, it's a must-visit.

(Mark & Greg, CC'd to you for your personal ADMIN usage, and for proofreading
purposes)
- -- 

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 03:52:34 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Temperature ???

Peter Landowski wrote:
> 
> Here is my dilemna. It is on my 72 442 with my 455 motor. I have an Auto
> Meter electronic temp gauge installed. The temperature gauge would read
> fine until around 170* and then it would act funny. When stopped at a light
> the temperture would climb from 180* to around 220* in less than 2-3
> seconds. I would check the upper radiator hose and it would not even be
> that hot. Once I start moving the temperture drops from 220* to 170* in 2
> seconds. I know it would be impossible for the coolant to vary like that.
> So I replaced the gauge along with the sending unit. Yet it still does the
> same thing!!!

The fact that it changes with movement (and a second set of instruments)
indicates that it is a real phenomena.  The heat is created when you are
moving and then when you stop it is not dissipated as fast (fan slows
down) so the temperature climbs.  If you sit making less heat for a
while then the temp would probably drop on it's own.

> I don't know what is causing it to do that. The gauge is hooked up
> correctly. What should I change, the thermostat? It is fairly new 160*
> thermostant by Stant (heavy duty). I was thinking a possible air pocket in
> the cooling system but I ran the car until the thermostat opened and then
> for 5 minutes more with the radiatoir cap off. I believe the air pocket
> would have already come out...
> 
> Should I hook up a mechanical gauge to see if the temperature still jumps
> around?
> HELP get my Olds on the road. I am getting frustrated!! HELP

Sorry, is 220 for short periods that bad?  Not trying to be a smarty but
I don't know anything about brief heat fluctuations.  I know that tanks
run solid rad caps and incredible pressures during the African campaign
and lived.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 04:27:00 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: My engine`s home

Corey Putnam wrote:
> 
>   One more thing I was told about the dyno run was that "if I had wanted
> to see better numbers we could have flipped a switch and produced 30
> more HP and 40 more lbs of torque. Something we do when our customers
> are really expecting some big numbers." Doesn`t that just grab you by
> the boys?

I think if they had talked to you like this before you dropped off your
engine you wouldn't have.  Sounds like "well if you don't like the
numbers we gave you be glad we didn't lie to you like we have done
before for other customers".  May be time to cut you loses or call the
BBB and repeat that line.  I can't believe they implied that they have
an easy way to make the dyno report false numbers, that is fraud!

Since you having such trouble I wonder what the machine shop I had work
on my motor really did.  Since it never was dynoed I may not know how
much HP it put out.  Maybe a G-Tech is in my future.  That's what I'd
really like, a quantifiable back wheel HP reading.

I hope your engine trouble cease soon,
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 06:40:21 -0400
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Re: GM 502 and a Cutlass????

The 502 needs a lot done to it to run like a worked olds. I have seen these at
the track and yes run great in a light car not so well in a heavy one but you
can buy a lot of after market items for it also. Plus when you finaly get your
olds to realy run , you can hang your head in shame when they want to see your
olds motor, and you show them what everyone else has.:)            Butch 68  
442
post

Don Foster wrote:

> Hi,
>   Has anyone tried putting one of these in a 71 Cutlass? Will it work?
> Before everybody gets angry, this car already has a Chevelle rearend and
> "76" 455. A brand new 502hp 502 engine is considerably cheaper than building
> a 455 the way I want it. If I ever get wealthy I'll go all Olds but for now
> I need my car back to life!!! Fast is the Key here. Big block is also a
> must. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks, Don

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 06:59:25 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Compression Ratio (was Misleading)

In a message dated 99-04-23 19:22:40 EDT, you write:

<< With those TRW pistons, Fel-Pro gaskets and shaved J-heads, I am supposed 
to
 be running around 9.5CR.  Well, the other day I tried Mid-Grade fuel (89
 octane) and today I tried Regular (87) octane, and the thing runs fine even
 with a mild advance curve. >>

Dunno how much of a comparison this is.

SOM should be 10.25:1 compression.

With blow-by mebbe 9:1.

Allus ran fine with regular.
Believe timing was set with premium gas.

SOM gets slightly better mileage with premium.
Approx, same $$ per mile.

And dont waste your time with mid-grade.
There is no such thing.
There is a reservoir of regular and a reservoir of premium.
They are mixed 60:40 in the lines to the pumps to make "mid-grade".

It would be cheaper to fuel SOM with regular.
But premium gasoline is better for the compression, and less likely to be 
"bad gas".

SOM

&KA

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Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 07:59:52 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Updated Mailing List Page--GO HERE! (fwd)

This bounced because of the "uns*b" word... forwarding. Thanks Charley!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Updated Mailing List Page--GO HERE!

Just added some new, improved links on my List FAQ page
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

Updated with smoother, click-through links to s*bscribe or uns*bscribe
from the Classic Olds Mailing List, as well as the G-body Olds Mailing
List, with her new Majordomo Server.  I'll mention, again, that I invite,
and request, all of you to put the
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm link in your signature files,
especially if you post to the list(s) often.  This, theoretically, will
make it more difficult for the visually impaired folks to have trouble
knowing how to get off these lists.....  We all know how those stories go,
right?  :(

Also note, there are no graphics on the page, so loading is practically
instantaneous.  For those who haven't seen it, it's a must-visit.
- -- 

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

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Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 08:00:55 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Compression Ratio (was Misleading)

I've been told that an engine compression test should read C.R. times
atmospheric pressure. So an 8:1 engine should give about 112 lbs. Makes
sense to me.

But whenever I do a compression test my gage gives me much higher readings
than that. Even on low CR engines. It's a professional gage I've used for 20
years. Checked its accuracy against air pressure gages a couple times, it
always checks OK.

My method is to just screw the gage into a plug hole and crank the motor WOT
until the gage stops increasing (4 or 5 "puffs"). My V-6 Cutlass read 120
lbs in 5 jugs, 90 in the bad one. My 307 gives me 155 lbs on all 8. That
would indicate about 12:1 C.R. which is balogna.

Whazzup wid dat?

drc

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Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 06:15:11 -0600
From: "ed" <ed@techniflite.com>
Subject: Re: Compression Ratio (was Misleading)

Dave,

Your cranking speed pressure should be as follows:

  8.0:1  140psi
  9.0:1  160psi
10.0:1  180psi
11.0:1  200psi

Use these figures as a rough guide and you will be fine.

Ed Linehan
70 442 W-30 Sport Coupe
71 Cutlass SX
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: Dave Cullen <david.cullen@snet.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, April 24, 1999 6:00 AM
Subject: Re: Compression Ratio (was Misleading)


> I've been told that an engine compression test should read C.R. times
> atmospheric pressure. So an 8:1 engine should give about 112 lbs. Makes
> sense to me.
> snip snip snip
> Whazzup wid dat?
> 
> drc
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 09:33:17 -0300
From: "Dr. Pedro E. Andrieu" <pandrieu@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: SW with a DIESEL engine (fwd)

Dear Greg:

I am amazed at the number of messages and the amount of info I can get from
most of them.

But I keep waiting for an answer for me!

APPARENTLY NOBODY KNOWS ANYTHING ABOUT A GOOD OLDS DIESEL STATION WAGON  I
very much like to buy !!!

KEEP WAITING....

HAVE A NICE WEEKEND

PEDRO

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sábado 27 de Marzo de 1999 23:09 PM
Subject: SW with a DIESEL engine (fwd)



From a new list member...

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: "Dr. Pedro E. Andrieu" <pandrieu@hotmail.com>
Subject: SW with a DIESEL engine

As a former owner of a 1981 Olds SW with a DIESEL engine, I would very much
like finding and buying a Full size, 9 pass, good shape body Olds SW with a
V8 DIESEL engine, to take it with me when going back to my country. I would
also consider a Cutlass one, also with a V8 DIESEL engine. I would
appreciate suggestions about how could I possibly find one. Thank you very
much,

Pedro E. Andrieu

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1921
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