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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1909


oldsmobile-digest      Saturday, April 17 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1909



Re: R-12 to R-134 conversion
question on 455 heads
Re: my stuck door story (non Olds). Was: door still stuck
Re: Hei/Spark Plugs.
My Olds
Re: 12VOLT Gauge Hook-Up
Re: question on 455 heads
Re: R-12 to R-134 conversion
95 Aurora Computer Codes
HEI for sale: resonable
Re: points to HEI, how?
Re: 95 Aurora Computer Codes
Re: question on 455 heads
vin Y v.s. vin 9 PROM chips was:Re: Hurst Parts
Re: Chalky Plastic on back side of front seats.. what to do?
master cylinder bore (was Re: new style master cylinder)
Re : stinking exhaust
Re: Stinking Exhaust
Olds guy,,, my comp went out
HEADLINER REPLACEMENT
Re: stinking exhaust
Re: My Olds (long)
Re: My Olds (long)
harmonic balancer
Re: harmonic balancer
X-Mailer: USANET web-mailer (M3.0.0.70)
Re: Dispute over subject...
Re: manifolds
Re: updating your olds anyone put 17's on 70-72 yet???
Re: harmonic balancer
Re: question on 455 heads
Re: question on 455 heads
Re: My Olds
Re: My Olds (long)
Re: question on 455 heads
Aurora transmission
O-type rearend
Door panel chrome strips
AC Spark Plug decoding
Master Cylinder Question
Re: points to HEI, how?
Re: question on 455 heads
'70 Delta 88 conv. in PA. $600.00
Re: Master Cylinder Question
RE: Missing
Re: O-type rearend
Im back got bounced??
No mail in two days
Re: My Olds
Yellow paint on a 442?
Re: Yellow paint on a 442?
Re: Im back got bounced??
Re: Boneyard Victory
Re: Boneyard Victory
Seat frame swap
mud flaps on '84 Delta?
Re: vin Y v.s. vin 9 PROM chips was:Re: Hurst Parts
Re: question of value: 78 Cutlass
Re: vin Y v.s. vin 9 PROM chips
Re: question on 455 heads
Re: points to HEI, how?
SS-III Rims
Re: mud flaps on '84 Delta?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 15:45:28 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: R-12 to R-134 conversion

>There is GOOD news however. While I was researching your question, which
>made me wonder why I didn't think of it also, I found out that there's a
>refrigerant out there that the supply houses for the contractors ( i.e.
>your friendly car mechanic who works on your car A/C ) that costs about
>$1.60 a pound and has almost the same qualities as R-12. As I get more
>info I'll let ya know.
>
>Fred Kemp
>bloom9@juno.com
>Tulsa, OK area
>'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass(daily driver)

Could this be the R22 that I've heard of people using?  Please give us
the info!  Pretty please?

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 16:47:47 EDT
From: Bbymks4@aol.com
Subject: question on 455 heads

              I have been wondering what the true advantge is of finding an 
older set of 
  455 higher compression heads is verses a newer set of smog heads. I know 
that
  higher compression means more horsepower, but with lower compression you 
don't
  necessarily need to run with premium fuel, it also seems to me that a lower 
  compression motor would run  smoother in the higer r.p.m. range, and would 
have a 
  better chance of staying together. Any thoughts on this? I'm looking at 
rebuilding a ' 
  74 455 motor in the near future for my ' 73 442, This is going to be a 
street car, but 
  it may get to see the track a few times when it gets restored. I'm thinking 
that I'd
  like to have a twelve or thirteen second car. would this be possible if 
everything
   else were modified ? Thanks from Steve M.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 14:07:55 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: my stuck door story (non Olds). Was: door still stuck

> When I bought my '73 RoadRunner back in 1992, the previous owner
> had swapped the passenger-side door out for a junkyard replacement. 
[...]
> When I got the car I had to unbolt the front passenger side seat
> and drag it over the drivers seat and out of the car just to get
> clearance to get the inner door panel off, and then I found out
> that the pull-rod was missing.

That's a coincidence. When we bought the spouse's little K wagon used 
in 1993 (an '86 model), the passenger's side door wouldn't open with 
the key. The lock would turn properly, but nothing happened. Opened up 
the door to find the link rod connecting the outside cylinder to the 
latch was simply not there. Not in the bottom of the door or anywhere 
else, and no one had disturbed this door since the factory assembled 
it, I'm pretty sure. Apparently the previous owner had gone seven 
years without it. That was the smallest part I have ever had to get 
from the junkyard.

I believe MoPar stands for "Missing Optional Parts".  :-)

- -- Andy

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 17:12:55 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hei/Spark Plugs.

In a message dated 4/15/99 10:58:00 PM Central Daylight Time, 
Dr-Olds@webtv.net writes:

<< I was reading through the last digest, and started thinking about spark
 plugs. I've had
 Hei on my 455 for a lot of years now and always used better grade plugs
 that were listed
 for my '72 Cutlass without a problem.  Should
 I be using plugs that were from an HEI system or does it not really make
 any difference.  Running an Accel HEI super coil....  If anybody
 has used both types- can you tell me of any
 performance gains?  Just curious.
  >>


As far as using "HEI" spec plugs, I am not sure what you are asking. You 
should continue using the same heat range of plug, as this is a factor of 
compression in the cylinder, more than quantity of current reaching the plug. 
On a different note, you should be using a plug with a wider gap.....065 vs. 
.035 in order to obtain the real benefits of HEI. 

Collyn

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 17:10:31 -0400
From: "Mitchel L. Young" <mitch@iitek.net>
Subject: My Olds

I just joined this group and I'm glad I found it.  I have a
1964 Starfire convertable that I drive about 1200 miles a
month. It has a 345 horse 394 with a turbo 375. It is stock
except for a holley carb,  a stereo and R134 air.  I need
some small trim parts and weatherstripping.  Any sugjestions
on where to start looking. I live in Ft. Lauderdale and work
in Miami .

TIA

Mitch Young

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 17:15:41 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: 12VOLT Gauge Hook-Up

In a message dated 4/15/99 11:03:56 PM Central Daylight Time, 
PETTRIX@prodigy.net writes:

<< On my 72 442 I'm hooking up an Auto Meter Volt gauge. I was wondering if it
 is OK to run the positive wire for the volt gauge directly to the resistor
 on the firewall? It states that the positive should be connected to a 12V
 ignition source, in which the resistor current is before it gets resisted.
 Is this OK?
  >>
  If I'm not mistaken...what autometer is suggesting is that the gauge be 
installed to a 12v source that is "key-on" Key-off" activated...not 
nessacarily "ignition activated".

Collyn 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 17:26:29 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: question on 455 heads

...I have been wondering what the true advantge is of finding an
older set of 455 higher compression heads is verses a newer set of smog 
heads...
_______

Actually, with the exception of the 68-69 D heads, all big block Olds heads
(early and late, high and low compression) have the same roughly 78-80 cc
combustion chamber.  Olds varied the compression ratio by changing the size of
the dish in the piston, not the size of the combustion chamber in the head.  
(As
an aside, this actually makes for more efficient combustion, as a spherical
combustion chamber is ideal).

Having said this, there _are_ benefits to getting early heads, namely that they
have better intake and exhaust ports.  Note that if you are planning to get the
heads ported, it doesn't matter which heads you start with, and the later smog
heads will have the hardened seats which are better for today's unleaded gas.
The only other thing to look out for is the intake valve size, as most big 
block
heads actually have the small (2.00") valves.  You want the large (2.070")
intakes, however many of the heads (like the vaunted C heads) came both ways 
and
require you to actually measure the valves.  You can retrofit large valves into
a small valve head.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 17:37:33 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: R-12 to R-134 conversion

Mike Bloomer wrote:
> 
> >There is GOOD news however. While I was researching your question, which
> >made me wonder why I didn't think of it also, I found out that there's a
> >refrigerant out there that the supply houses for the contractors ( i.e.
> >your friendly car mechanic who works on your car A/C ) that costs about
> >$1.60 a pound and has almost the same qualities as R-12. As I get more
> >info I'll let ya know.
> >
> >Fred Kemp
> >bloom9@juno.com
> >Tulsa, OK area
> >'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass(daily driver)
> 
> Could this be the R22 that I've heard of people using?  Please give us
> the info!  Pretty please?

I'm guessing it's a product called Autofrost.  They have a website:

http://www.autofrost.com/

I've never tried the stuff...I'm thinking about it it though.  I don't
know what the price is for it, the website is evidently just the
distributor's page.  I couldn't find a price listing anywhere on the
site.  

You need barrier hoses to use it...I do't know when the industry started
using barrier hoses though.  I've heard american cars started using
barrier hoses years ~before~ the switch to R134A simply because it was a
superior hose...like around 1987.  That's just heresey though...Picked
it up in the newsgroups, don't know how true it is.    
 

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Crusier
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais 
73 98 LS

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 16:58:46 -0500
From: Bruce Lewis <pblewis@mindspring.com>
Subject: 95 Aurora Computer Codes

Does anyone know which terminals to short on the 16 pin connector to
extract ECU codes for a 95 Aurora? My connector does not match the
connector in the Haynes Computer code manual. Label says it is OBD I type
system.

TIA

Bruce Lewis
95 Aurora
89 RX-7 Convertible
88 RX-7 Turbo II

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 17:30:47 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: HEI for sale: resonable

   List I have a very nice fully rebuilt HEI for sale for Olds. It has a new 
coil, cap, rotor, and wires...all Accel. It is from a 1975 big 4door UGLY 
Olds. The bushings and weights are new as well. also will throw in a extra 
Delco module with the deal. The HEI has around 300 miles on it and was 
performing flawlessly when I went to a dual four barrel intake. The new 
intake forced me to go back to my Mallory Unilite. 

I am asking $75 for it+ shipping...the plug wires cost more than that.

Collyn 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 17:59:11 -0400
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: points to HEI, how?

> I ran into this also.  I experimented with both .060 and .080 gaps along
> with various heat ranges on my 72.  I finally settled on a .060 gap with
> AC R46SZ plugs.  If I'm thinking correctly, the R46 is the application
> and the SZ is the heat range.

R46 is the heat range. The SX basically designates the pregapped at .08"
plugs which are now discontinued. They are replaced by the R46ZX plug, which
is gapped at .06".
Or was it the other way round?
==============================================
Mick Gillespie, Melbourne, FL
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/~mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 18:21:33 -0400
From: "Jason Labay" <jlabay@tdin.com>
Subject: Re: 95 Aurora Computer Codes

You can't just ground the two ALDL pinouts and read codes like on 81-93 GM
cars.  94+ need a scan tool or special software package to read them.  I use
Diacom Plus made my Rinda Technologies.  It is a GM software program that
monitors all the sensors and ECM functions in real time on your computer
screen.  I use the software to pull codes and to record my runs down the 1/4
at the track.  It is a real helpful tool for troubleshooting problems.
http://www.mcs.net/~rinda/home.html

Jason Labay
94 Caprice 9C1 LT1
80 442 W-30
72 Cutlass Supreme

>
>Does anyone know which terminals to short on the 16 pin connector to
>extract ECU codes for a 95 Aurora? My connector does not match the
>connector in the Haynes Computer code manual. Label says it is OBD I type
>system.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 18:43:56 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: question on 455 heads

If you go with newer heads for the hardened seats , look for a pair of Ka 
heads , they all have the large valves and were on the 73 455/4spds and the 
Hurst Oldses in 73 with the L77 option and on the 74s with the L76 option and 
on the 75s with the W30 option...i do have a set of real good G heads that 
came off a 71 442 4speed, so they are big valve too...Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 18:02:53 -0500
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas.Martin@motorola.com>
Subject: vin Y v.s. vin 9 PROM chips was:Re: Hurst Parts

I am sure GM tweaked the timing curves for the 3.73:1 gears and THM 200 4R
trans compared to the lazy 2.14's and THM200C the "Y" engines in the
G-Bodies were common with.  According to my 85 book, ALL "Y" powered Cutlii
had the THM 200C, and only the 442 ("9", Delta 88 "Y", and the diesel got
the OD trans.

Contact Steve Ochs if he is still on the list for more info.

Tom Martin

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 19:22:46 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: Chalky Plastic on back side of front seats.. what to do?

There are kits on the market where you mix a filler compound and literally
fill the cracks in a dash. This filler usually comes in several colors and
other compounds that you mix in the filler that modifies the filler color so
you can closely match the original dash color. These kits usually have
different "Graining Papers" that you place over the fresh filler that
somewhat mimics the surrounding grain of the dash onto the fresh patch.
There usually is a mini heating iron that cures the filler and sets the
grain into it's surface of the new patch. Once filled you can spray the dash
surface to whatever color you wish. this stuff does work If you have the
patience.  If the dash isn't to bad it can be repaired this way far cheaper
at about $30 than the several hundreds that places like "Just Dashes" costs.
Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi


- ----- Original Message -----
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, April 16, 1999 4:16 PM
Subject: Re: Chalky Plastic on back side of front seats.. what to do?


> In a message dated 4/16/99 2:17:06 PM EST, jcarri@alesis1.usa.com writes:
>
> << Over on the Mopar mailing list someone posted their solution, which
>  was to lightly bead-blast (!) the plastic seat-backs and thus remove
>  the flaky surface layers, after which he used the usual Vinyl paint
>  (SEM, Plastikote, Eastwood, etc) to restore the surface appearance. >>
>
> Keeping that in mind, I wonder if the same process would be successful for
> redoing a dash? Would plasticote have enough plastic in it to fill
dashboard
> cracks while also giving a new color to the dash? Seems to me, it could
help
> those of us with big cars for which there is no dash replacement made. Has
> anybody had any experience with this?
> Bruce
> 75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course)
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 14:18 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: master cylinder bore (was Re: new style master cylinder)

someone wrote :
My  understanding is if you go with a smaller bore your pedal throw 
will be more but  it will reduce pedal effort.

- ---------------
someone else replied :
>> No sir I didn't find any pedal change and for stopping power, I 
think my car reacted quicker. But I could be wrong.  If you use a 
bigger piston, this will cause a higher pressure to be developed which 
would be applied to your calipers and wheel cylinders.  This increased 
pressure would cause a quicker reaction with greater force. 
>>
_________________

Have to go with the first poster. A smaller bore INCREASES line 
pressure for the same pedal effort, or reduces pedal effort with the 
same line pressure, but to move the caliper pistons the same amount 
the pedal throw will be increased. Go too far and you'll have the 
hair-raising experience of having your brake pedal bottom out on the 
floorboards once your brake-pads wear down.

This is how it works: pressure = force/area.  If you use a bigger-bore 
master cylinder (piston with more area) and apply the same pedal 
force, you get less pressure, not more.  

The line pressure acts on the pistons in the brake calipers to push 
them out, and this time the same equation is turned around, 
braking force = pressure x area of caliper piston.  

This means using larger pistons in the calipers will lower braking 
effort. Once again, your foot will have to move further to get the car 
to stop.  

Be careful of mixing brake parts, if you use a smaller-bore master 
cylinder and larger-bore brake cylinders at the same time you may 
bottom out your brake pedal (run out of travel) before you get 
adequate (or any) braking.

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 14:01 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re : stinking exhaust

Kevin D. Wood wrote:
<snip>
The exhaust that my car puts out smells so bad it gives me
a headache........I first started really noticing it a few years ago
when our whole area (SE Wisconsin) changed over to reformulated gas.  
I have also noticed that lately almost every time I drive (in my new
car) behind older vehicles I am smelling a similar stench.  I wonder
does anybody know what's up with that? .....Hate the smell.  Also 
wondering what kind of performance I am giving up with
this crap-gas.

I would appreciate it greatly if this subject is not left to die 
without some discussion... I know a couple of people in my area have 
to be dealing with the same thing.
_________________________________

I remember hearing something about this problem a couple of years ago. 
Many people in several states complained of headaches, nausea, and 
dizziness after using the reformulated gasoline. I remember something 
about one of the new additives to the gas being an extremely nasty, 
poisonous substance - may have been MEK (methyl ethyl ketone, I think) 
which not only causes these symptoms but also kills aquatic life after 
outboard motors on boats spill it in the lakes and streams. Perhaps 
some of the chemical engineers on this list can shed some knowledge on 
this.
 
Those of us in So Cal have had garbage gas all year round for some 
years now; I never noticed the symptoms you mentioned, but I know that 
California gas has a different formulation from any other state. When 
they began selling the oxygenated crappy gasoline here my RoadRunner 
(my daily driver then) began to lean-misfire everytime I took my foot 
off the gas while cruising. Had to jet the mixture about 5% richer to 
cure it.


- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 18:23:24 -0500
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas.Martin@motorola.com>
Subject: Re: Stinking Exhaust

My 91 Bonneville is picky, hated MTBE, but tolerated Ethanol.  Still, it
make 30 of so more HP with the real stuff.
The smell is from the catalytic converter and an incorrect fuel mixture with
high amounts of sulfur in the fuel.  The Sulfur and the high temps excite
the conversion process in the exhaust to mix the C02 with the sulfur to make
Sulfur dioxide, the stink.  

I am in SE WI, and still have real gas, but unless you want to drive to
Walworth County, you probably are stuck.  Hey, we don't have emissions
testing yet!  (only 50K people in the county at best!)

My 85 Cutlass doesn't seem to care much about what gas, as long as it has
some bang.  The MTBE and Ethanol make the gas burn slower.

One thing, I can't see how screwing up the fuel mix can help all these fancy
dance EFI cars.  The O2 is going to see more O2 in the exhaust and richen
the mix just to compensate, trashing fuel economy and undoubtedly messing
with a finely tuned emissions system that was not designed for the
oxygenates they like to add.

So, they THINK that the MTBE and Ethanol will HELP emissions on the few old
cars on the road, which if they are running bad enough to be  a gross
polluter, they should be pulled off the road anyway because the driver is
probably an idiot and doesn't know how to fix anything, like change the oil
and air filter!!  (which can be a MAJOR emissions problem, more than almost
anything else!!)

For those of us who CARE about our machines, they typically are not gross
polluters, and should not be punished with the crap gas.  If my 1991
Bonneville makes 0.00% CO and 3 HC at 6000 feet, why the hell should I use
REFORMULATED gas to make it "better"???  I want to know!!!  My 1985 Cutlass
with the factory 1985 307 and 186K miles did 0.1% CO and 100 HC.  What do
they want?  Huh?  Fine the bonehead with the 1990 Corolla or Civic blowing
blue smoke out the tailpipe and that greenpeace sticker on the bumper.  Just
because I keep my cars running sweet does not mean I should have to use what
they THINK will help.  It just screws up a finely tuned system, not help.

Am I missing something?

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!



>Just thought of another question.  The exhaust
>that my car puts out smells so bad it gives me
>a headache.  Sticks in the clothes and everything--- the wife sure
>appreciates that...
>I used to think it was running to rich, but I have
>experimented with various jet sizing and air/fuel
>mixtures and have found no improvement.
>I first started really noticing it a few years ago
>when our whole area (SE Wisconsin) changed
>over to reformulated gas.  I have also noticed 
>that lately almost every time I drive (in my new
>car) behind older vehicles I am smelling a similar stench.  I wonder
>does anybody know
>what's up with that?  Is there a fuel additive
>that has been found to be "reformulated gas
>friendly"?  Hate the smell.  Also wondering
>what kind of performance I am giving up with
>this crap-gas.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 19:27:06 EDT
From: OLDS44272@aol.com
Subject: Olds guy,,, my comp went out

     I hope to get my IBM back up and running by this week-end. The mother 
board went out after only 13 months. I'll now get to see what type of 
customer service IBM has. Anyway, i am bumming major cuz i don't have 
internet access.( read --Olds fix!!) without my comp. It is also crummy 
weather so i can't ride my motorcycle................Scott........ 

  P.s. i'll probably have to re-subcribe to the list ,from Sat the 10th, to 
Friday the 16th, i had exactly 1000 e-mails!!
 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 19:52:15 -0400
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <TJACQUILLARD@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: HEADLINER REPLACEMENT

Where can I find step by step procedures on putting in a headliner. I
have the old one out, holes and rods marked. I just want to find out
where the best place is to start, and when to glue what. The car is a 
'68 CUTLASS
T.J.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 19:59:12 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: stinking exhaust

I believe there was a thread not to long ago that finally came to the
conclusion that the charcoal canister or a filter within it needed replacing
when the exhaust started smelling foul as you stated.   Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi


- ----- Original Message -----
From: John Carri <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, April 16, 1999 2:01 PM
Subject: Re : stinking exhaust


> Kevin D. Wood wrote:
> <snip>
> The exhaust that my car puts out smells so bad it gives me
> a headache........

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 19:30:44 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: My Olds (long)

Hi Mitch!

Welcome on the list! I am sure you will find lotsa info and knowledge 
about oldses here!

Here are some catalogs you should get in case you don't have them. I give 
you just the webpages and the phonenumbers of the companies. They all 
should be interesting for you:

Fusick www.fusick.com 860 623 1583
(I like Fusick best. They are friendly, knowlegable and have good prices)

Year One www.yearone.com 1800 YEAR ONE
(Year One is good too but usually slightly more expensive then Fusick. 
They have a nice catalog with lots of info in it though. You should 
get the catalog even if you don't order from them...

Brothers Automotive: 
www.thehost.com/brothers  1 800 442 PART
(Brothers are often the least expensive but they s*ck with service and 
delivery times. That is my opinion but it is shared by many people on the 
list. I stopped buying from them even when I had time to wait for my 
stuff. I had to call them every time to track down my stuff and I rather 
pay 5 bucks more and work on my olds in the time I save. They seem to 
have to backorder everything, this means there storage seems to be = 0.)

You should always ask Jim Chermack who sells parts too, before you go to 
the big places. He is a list member. His Email is: chermac@exis.net. He 
has used and nos parts and every now and then posts his new parts to the 
list. He has a big ad on 442.com parts for sale classifieds.

There is antother list member who's name and info I don't have. He is 
with a company "where cutlass and 442 is all we do" but I don't have any 
experience dealing with them. Maybe someone could fill us in.

Also a good place to start is the 442.com webpages (bryceman) 
classifieds. They are free for private people and you may want to look 
thru the parts offered and then put an ad on there with what you are 
looking for. 

Hope this helps. You should also just try to describe what you need and 
post it to the list. Sometimes people have a parts car in their back yard 
or happen tu stumble across something when junkyardin'.

Happy Oldsmobiling!

George
- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
- --------------------------------------------------------------

On Fri, 16 Apr 1999, Mitchel L. Young wrote:

> I just joined this group and I'm glad I found it.  I have a
> 1964 Starfire convertable that I drive about 1200 miles a
> month. It has a 345 horse 394 with a turbo 375. It is stock
> except for a holley carb,  a stereo and R134 air.  I need
> some small trim parts and weatherstripping.  Any sugjestions
> on where to start looking. I live in Ft. Lauderdale and work
> in Miami .
> 
> TIA
> 
> Mitch Young
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 19:54:12 -0500 (CDT)
From: drolds350@webtv.net (Jim McKeague)
Subject: Re: My Olds (long)

Mitch,
Here are a couple more,

Supercars Unlimited-Greg Rollin
Portland, Oregon  (503) 244-8249
I have ordered parts from him and he is good to do business with! Also
has a lot of Oldsmobile knowledge.

Specialty Olds- Winter Haven, Florida
Also good to deal with. 

Jim McKeague
'70 Rallye 350
'70 Cutlass S W-31
http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html
Temporary E-Mail address: drolds350@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 20:56:33 -0400
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: harmonic balancer

I am on my 3rd balancer in 3 weeks . Has anyone had any luck with fluid
damper, the stock ones slip on the ring after 2 or three passes. never
had this problem before.                   thanks   Butch  68  442  post

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 21:05:58 -0400
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <TJACQUILLARD@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: harmonic balancer

B Vosburgh wrote:
> 
> I am on my 3rd balancer in 3 weeks . Has anyone had any luck with fluid
> damper, the stock ones slip on the ring after 2 or three passes. never
> had this problem before.                   thanks   Butch  68  442  post

Yes, I have had one on my other play toy, (don't want to get crushed)
for over three years. I don't take it down the track, but that was
supposed to be the original use for them. I have it on a built '66 396
and it definately has stood up to plenty of street racing.
T.J.

------------------------------

Date: 16 Apr 99 17:40:23 PDT
From: Randy Hermsen <76Cutlass@netscape.net>
Subject: X-Mailer: USANET web-mailer (M3.0.0.70)

____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://webmail.netscape.com.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 21:11:58 EDT
From: CUTLASS442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Dispute over subject...

In my Chevelle I ran Stuart/Warner Volt/Temp/Oil Pressure. All three were 
grounded to a common ground. No eratic readings. I also ran all three lights 
to one common power wire.

Richarrd
1967 "Oldsmobuick" Cutlass


 Here is a electric tech question I was disputing someone over.....I hope I
 was right!! Just read slowly and you won't get lost...
 
 You have 3 electronic Auto Meter gauges: 
 
     1st  WATER TEMP              2nd  OIL PRESSURE                 3rd
 TRANS TEMP
 
                                                                            
                               
 The negative wire for the trans temp ground is connected to the negative
 post of the water temp gauge. (Which is essence is not grounded at all). 
 Next the water temp negative wire for the light is connected to the
 negative post on the water temp gauge. (No ground as of yet). Lastly a wire
 is run from the negative post of the water temp gauge to the metal portion
 of the dash.
 
 My dispute is the following: This causes a bad ground because the trans
 temp gauge is trying to ground out through the water temp gauge. The water
 temp negative light wire is also trying to ground 
 out through its own ground. Which in essence would cause the water temp
 gauge to read erratically.
 
 The other sides dispute: He stated that the water temp gauge is grounded
 because there is a wire from the neg side of the terminal to the dash. 
 
 I believe that the ground is bad because to close the circuit and have
 proper reading you must hva e direct ground for each instead of jumping
 grounds from one gauge to another. 
 
 
 Pettrix@prodigy.net
 
  >>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 21:22:06 EDT
From: QWKCUTLASS@aol.com
Subject: Re: manifolds

Hey Jim, i did a swap like that in my 74 and everything bolted right up, i 
used Pep Boys motor mounts for a 72 455 though, the driver side header is a 
little close to the fram and steering but nothing hits.  Did you reuse your 
motor mounts from the 350? 
Sam

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 21:28:04 EDT
From: QWKCUTLASS@aol.com
Subject: Re: updating your olds anyone put 17's on 70-72 yet???

Your welcome Joe, sorry i don't have a pic.  I had a 4.5in offset and i think 
you could get a bigger tire on there, i never really tried but i have seen it 
done on a 71 Chevy, the rims on the back was a 9.5in.  I liked the way they 
filled up the wheel well there wasn't too much space between the tire and 
body.
Sam

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 21:26:26 -0400
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: harmonic balancer

> B Vosburgh wrote:
> >
> > I am on my 3rd balancer in 3 weeks . Has anyone had any luck with fluid
> > damper, the stock ones slip on the ring after 2 or three passes. never
> > had this problem before.                   thanks   Butch  68  442  post

My neighbor has run the same one on his bracket car since I've known him ( 4
years).
440 cid 70 Duster, runs high 9.8's in the 1/4 @ 135 (+/-).

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 21:32:12 EDT
From: QWKCUTLASS@aol.com
Subject: Re: question on 455 heads

 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 21:39:39 EDT
From: QWKCUTLASS@aol.com
Subject: Re: question on 455 heads

Hey Steve.  The smog heads other than low compression have very restrictive 
runners, and those little smog bumps that totally rob horsepower,  you might 
wanna try to find a nice set of C heads from 68 or 69.  If you keep them 
stock or give them a basic rebuild , with 8.5 to 1 pistons you can keep your 
compression in the 8 to 9 range, which will run well on regular pump gas. 
Don't have the heads milled more than you have to, that will up your comp. 
ratio.  I have a set i will be selling in a month or two, i'm waiting for my 
performer rpm heads to get off backorder.  try to stay away from smog heads 
if you wanna get a good amount of power outta your heads, unless you have 
them totally ported out and then it makes no difference, except in the price 
to have your runners opened up and polished. Good luck
Sam   
74 Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 21:49:37 EDT
From: QWKCUTLASS@aol.com
Subject: Re: My Olds

I have a book here called Aids For The Olds Enthusiast, in Lansing Mich.
The phone number is (517) 885-1502.  Their hours are 6:30 to 2 Mon-Fri.
They have a bunch of different advertisers in there and should have you 
covered on you trim pieces.
Sam

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 22:02:58 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: My Olds (long)

In a message dated 4/16/99 8:40:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu writes:

<< Brothers Automotive: 
 www.thehost.com/brothers  1 800 442 PART
 (Brothers are often the least expensive but they s*ck with service and 
 delivery times. That is my opinion but it is shared by many people on the 
 list. I stopped buying from them even when I had time to wait for my 
 stuff. >>

I've call them 3 times just for a catalog since December and have yet to 
receive it. I would agree, don't bother.

 
<<  There is antother list member who's name and info I don't have. He is 
 with a company "where cutlass and 442 is all we do" but I don't have any 
 experience dealing with them. Maybe someone could fill us in.
  >>

That would be Greg Rollin from Supercars Unlimited.  He's very knowledgeable 
and answers many questions on the list.  His number is 1-800-OLDS442 and the 
web site is http://www.supercarsunlimited.com/

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 22:03:03 EDT
From: FIFTY7C@aol.com
Subject: Re: question on 455 heads

I hope no one minds if I jump in on this string. I want to know if "C" heads 
are the same for a 455 and a 350? 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 21:12:52 -0500
From: "Charles E. Brown" <cebrown@execpc.com>
Subject: Aurora transmission

QUESTION:

I have an Aurora, and can not see ANY effect from the shift-mode
selector.

I have made very careful checks, [even placing stops under the
throttl-pedal], and can see no effect on shift point or the "firmness"
of the shifts.

My dealer is no help....  the service department just says it should
"optimize" the shifting to a "sport-mode".

Hads anyone actually observed any effect????   Or, do I have a defective
transmission/control/???

Also....  is there any way to access a technician at Oldsmobile???

Thanx.... ChasBrown, cebrown@execpc.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 21:24:04 -0500
From: "Stephan" <zappa@goodthing.net>
Subject: O-type rearend

I have a stock 1970 Oldsmobile O-type rearend. It is a 12 bolt case with a
10 bolt ring gear. The ring gear is 8.5 inches and it has 28 spline axles.
Anyone know somewhere to get parts for this? How about internal parts
measurements? What crosses to it in internal parts? Any help would be
appreciated.

Stephan
70 Gold Olds

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 22:30:14 EDT
From: Jon442@aol.com
Subject: Door panel chrome strips

Anyone have any ideas on refurbishing the thin strips of chrome that are on 
the '72 door panels? The chrome foil from the hobby shop is not too bad, but 
is not very durable. Any "chrome" paint that really looks like chrome and not 
just silver?

Thanks,

Jon

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 22:47:46 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: AC Spark Plug decoding

R 46 SZ

R= resistor

46= heat range (45 is cooler, 47 is hotter)

S= flat seat  (TS would be tapered seat)

Z= special gap (Originated when the .060 and up gaps recommended with HEI
were an novelty.  X also indicates a special gap.)

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 22:52:15 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Master Cylinder Question

	Hey list..looking at a GM master cylinder that sat outside on a 
vehicle for awhile, I noticed something. If I remember correctly, awhile back 
we had some discussion about someones brakes "fading", and it turned out to 
be the master cylinder.
	Well, anyway, to get back to my story, I noticed on mine, that the 
rubber "seal" that goes on the lid (cap), and has the two (in my case 
two)...whatever they are called..they kind of hang down into the master 
cylinder reservoirs..they fold like an accordion I guess...had developed a 
small hole in it, and I noticed that when I tried to push the two rubber 
extensions back against the cap, they wouldn't go without some effort. Then I 
noticed that fluid had gone through the little hole, and was trapped between 
the cap and the backside of the whole rubber piece.
	I was wondering if that could cause the brakes to get progressively 
"spongier" as more fluid got behind the seal? If it is, and that rubber seal 
piece alone is available, it would make solving a spongy brake problem a heck 
of a lot easier than replacing the whole master cylinder. Anyway, just 
thought I'd bring that up here, and see what anyone else thinks!  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 22:56:36 -0400
From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com>
Subject: Re: points to HEI, how?

R46SX = 0.080" gap
R46SZ = 0.060" gap

Either will work, and could be considered stock for a GM HEI, but the 0.080s
will cause the ignition to run at a much higher peak voltage, which while a
good thing, really speeds up the demise of secondary ignition parts (rotor,
cap, wires, etc.) and increases chances of arc or crossfire.

I've run both, and find them about equal in performance.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mick Gillespie <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, April 16, 1999 5:59 PM
Subject: Re: points to HEI, how?


>
>> I ran into this also.  I experimented with both .060 and .080 gaps along
>> with various heat ranges on my 72.  I finally settled on a .060 gap with
>> AC R46SZ plugs.  If I'm thinking correctly, the R46 is the application
>> and the SZ is the heat range.
>
>R46 is the heat range. The SX basically designates the pregapped at .08"
>plugs which are now discontinued. They are replaced by the R46ZX plug,
which
>is gapped at .06".
>Or was it the other way round?
>==============================================
>Mick Gillespie, Melbourne, FL
>69 Cutlass Conv.
>80 Toronado Brougham
>mgillespie@sprynet.com
>http://home.sprynet.com/~mgillespie/oldspage.htm
>==============================================
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 22:02:54 -0500
From: "Glen Hankins" <hankins5@hit.net>
Subject: Re: question on 455 heads

The smallblocks never had C heads from the factory.  Big blocks had letter
designations, and small blocks had numbers.  The heads will bolt on to a
350, though, provided you use a Performer RPM or custom manifold.  The
problem is that the big block heads have intake ports that are taller than a
standard smallblock intake manifold.

GBH
- -----Original Message-----
From: FIFTY7C@aol.com <FIFTY7C@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, April 16, 1999 9:05 pm
Subject: Re: question on 455 heads


>I hope no one minds if I jump in on this string. I want to know if "C"
heads
>are the same for a 455 and a 350?
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 23:03:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: '70 Delta 88 conv. in PA. $600.00

From newsgroups, if interested, contact them directly.

1970 Olds Delta 88 Convertible  (Located in York, Pa)
Great project car,needs good home.
455 V8, extra body parts
$600.00

Call Cory at (717) 246-0573
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 22:23:08 -0500
From: "Glen Hankins" <hankins5@hit.net>
Subject: Re: Master Cylinder Question

Dorian-

  I am skeptical about the seal being the cause of the problem.  I would
have a look at all four wheel cylinders (if you haven't already) and see if
mebbe you have a slow leak letting air in/fluid out.
  I had a 72 Cutlass with power drums, and it had the same problem. . .
. -spongy feel no matter what I did.  I paid some ripoff artist 126 bucks to
rebuild the front brakes (I was sixteen --new to the game/knew nothing),  I
replaced the master cylinder, checked the booster & check valve, I bled the
brakes (over and over and over  ad nauseum),and even lengthened the pushrod
to get the pedal up a little bit.  I'm short. I eventually decided I had to
live with it.

  Two years later I'm complaining to my cousin about it.  He says 'What? No
pedal?  I'll be over on Saturday.' He said he'd had the exact same problem
with his 70 Chevelle.  He brought over an air bubble and we pulled the
bleeders and blew out the brake lines.  You wouldn't believe the crap that
came out!  I wouldn't if I hadn't been there.  It looked like rusty mud.
Thing is, the fluid never looked bad when I bled the brakes. I was really
surprised.
  We put the bleeders back in, put in new fluid, bled 'em, and ~lo and
behold~ pedal feel!!  Whoda thunkit?  I tolerated crappy brakes for two
years.

May not be your problem, but mebbe will help somebody.

Keep us posted  ; )

Glen



> Hey list...
> ...I was wondering if that could cause the brakes to get progressively
>"spongier" as more fluid got behind the seal? If it is, and that rubber
seal
>piece alone is available, it would make solving a spongy brake problem a
heck
>of a lot easier than replacing the whole master cylinder. Anyway, just
>thought I'd bring that up here, and see what anyone else thinks!  Dorian
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 23:45:01 -0400
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Missing

Master Lou!
Hey what's going on?  Haven't been paying much attention to the list for a
while.  Busy with work and all.  What's with the pain pills?  How about
sending some my way...



Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 3.8 Calais
Bucks County, PA
mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 21:39:23 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: O-type rearend

Stephan wrote:
> 
> I have a stock 1970 Oldsmobile O-type rearend. It is a 12 bolt case with a
> 10 bolt ring gear. The ring gear is 8.5 inches and it has 28 spline axles.
> Anyone know somewhere to get parts for this? How about internal parts
> measurements? What crosses to it in internal parts? Any help would be
> appreciated.
> 
> Stephan
> 70 Gold Olds


Stephan,

Because there are so many internal differences
between the O axles used between 1967 and 1970,
listing all the components that will or won't
interchange with each other would make for a 
small book.  So for the sake of bandwidth, 
specifically, what are you looking to do with
the rear?  And what is the current ratio? 


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Web Site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: 16 Apr 99 22:13:34 PDT
From: Randy Hermsen <76Cutlass@netscape.net>
Subject: Im back got bounced??

Hey hot rod harry did you get the last mess. I sent no tilt steering on
dynamic 88,sorry still want that 425 .I didnt get any mail for two days it
really suc-s big time I know I had some answeres comin my way about puttin
that 425 in my cutlass 76 what kind of tranny fits it???

____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://webmail.netscape.com.

------------------------------

Date: 16 Apr 99 22:31:19 PDT
From: Randy Hermsen <76Cutlass@netscape.net>
Subject: No mail in two days

Hello,
    Is there something wrong with the mailing list?
Its been two days now that I have had no mail. Or is the server down or
something? I just re-subscribed to the list, didn't know what else to do!
Hopefully you can shed some light on what is happening in Oldsmo land.

LoL 

Thanx from 
Randy
76Cutlass@netscape.net

____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://webmail.netscape.com.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 22:36:40 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: My Olds

Thanks for the kind words guys.  I really appreciate it.
Although in Mitch's case, we are unable to help with his 
1964 Starfire.   However, there is another list member who
no doubt can.  Everett Horton of E&G Automotive.  Phone    
401-435-7139  e-mail  S61starfir@aol.com

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Web Site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 01:42:04 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Yellow paint on a 442?

Hello all.

I was just thinking about some really random things, and this fact is a key
element...what shades of yellow (if any) were available on A-bodies thru
1972?  Is there another breakdown between F85/Cutlass/442s/Vistas?
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 03:42:34 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: Yellow paint on a 442?

I know of two shades in 1972....Sunfire yellow and Sunflower yellow. 
Sunfire yellow is a pretty mellow color but still bright and still
yellow. :)  Sunflower yellow will blind airline pilots and atttract
amourous bumblebees in the spring. :)  It's ~extremely~ bright.  Almost
a bright light green even.  

There was a mistake with the paint on my Vista Cruiser.  We asked for
sunfire yellow and got sunflower yellow by accident.  They wouldn't let
us return the paint so we thinned it with some white and ended up with
this:

   http://home.talkcity.com/HotRodRd/greg28/

It's not as bright as the sunflower but brighter than sunfire...It's not
bad but It's due a repaint (not a good paint job to start with...keeps
it from rusting though) and I'm definitly going back to sunfire.  I
really like it better that way.

Drew Senko used to have a scanned sheet of 71 or 72 color chips posted
on his webpage:  http://members.aol.com/drewinva  Might give you an
idea.

...For what it's worth.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais
73 98 LS

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 07:44:24 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: Im back got bounced??

thanks on the belated reply(hate when I get booted off list )....a tilt would 
have been nice in my dads 66 starfire 425/4speed.....the 425 would be awesome 
in your 76 and the turbo 400 would be your best bet to use as a tranny since 
Olds still used it in 76 with the 455....talk to you soon...Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 08:35:33 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <Berusch@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Boneyard Victory

I'm on my way to look.  Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Oldsfire@aol.com <Oldsfire@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, April 11, 1999 10:58 PM
Subject: Re: Boneyard Victory


>Peter, if your going back next Saturday, see if the 67 Delta 88 has a good
>set of back up light lenses.  I could sure use a ste of good ones!!!
Thanks
> John.....67 Delta 88 Holiday Coupe       Oldsfire@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 08:37:44 -0400
From: "Peter Berusch" <Berusch@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Boneyard Victory

Gonna check it out this morning.  Any idea where I can get door panels for a
'68 98 convertible?  Again, would '70 parts be ok in your application?
Peter.
- -----Original Message-----
From: person <vbdeveloper@worldnet.att.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, April 11, 1999 10:32 PM
Subject: Re: Boneyard Victory


>I am looking for a front bumper, trunk lid, drivers side fender skirt. Let
>me now if you find anything else. E-Mail direct.Thanks. Allan
>++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>+
>+
>++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>VBDeveloper@worldnet.att.net
>
>                                       =
>                                           =
>                                                =
>==================================
>'69 Olds Ninety-Eight Topless Bubba=====
>====666=================999============
>         666                                        999
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Peter Berusch <Berusch@mindspring.com>
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Date: Sunday, April 11, 1999 10:26 PM
>Subject: Re: Boneyard Victory
>
>
>>Dunno.  But, if you prod my somewhat febrile wits on Friday, I will find
>out
>>when I return on Saturday.  What should I be looking for in the event that
>>they have one?  I will be glad to help.  Peter.
>>
>>>Hey Peter,
>>>
>>>    Any '69 Ninety(Eighty)-Eights at that junkyard???
>>>++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>>>+
>>>+
>>>++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>>>VBDeveloper@worldnet.att.net                                         =
>>
>>
>>
>>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 09:11:59 -0400
From: "Kyle Tilbe" <kftilbe@gte.net>
Subject: Seat frame swap

Hi,
I've got some broken springs on my 71 bucket seat bottom frame, are the
70 bucket seat frames the same. Would I be able to swap one frame for the
other.

Thanks, Kyle

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 06:32:15 -0700
From: "Andrew Conkey" <andrewc@novell.uidaho.edu>
Subject: mud flaps on '84 Delta?

Now, this is something I haven't seen discussed yet!

I drive a couple of miles of gravel roads every day and flying gravel 
is taking its toll on my *black* paint. I also get 'fender burgs' of mud 
and gravel dust stuck under that back 1/4s. I am wondering if there 
are any 'stock' looking mud flaps available for an '84 Delta 88? Any 
recommendations? I haven't yet gone to the local autoparts store to 
find some generic ones.

I have seen them on other full size cars, some look good, some 
look not so good....

And... no, I don't want those 'big rig' mud flaps with the chrome 
silhouette of a well figured woman...

...Something with the older style olds rockets would be cool 
though... I kind of dread drilling any *extra* holes in my car for rust 
prevention, but this gravel is killing my paint!

Thanks!

Andrew
'84 Delta 88

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 09:47:37 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: vin Y v.s. vin 9 PROM chips was:Re: Hurst Parts

There is a difference.
The ECM uses throttle position vs manifold vacuum for much of its decision
making (when to activate ignition advance, EGR, TCC etc.). 'Y' motors make
more part throttle vacuum.

drc


- ----------------------------------------------------------
I have always wondered if there was a difference between the 'Y'
and the '9' PROMs. Anybody know? My guess is none....

thanks

Andrew
'84 Delta 88 - vin 'Y'

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 09:52:59 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: question of value: 78 Cutlass

>> $800.
>>
>> drc
>
>c'mon, that is worth more! I would pay 2500 on the spot if it really is
>as described. That head problem is solved, right? 70k that is nothing. I
>paid 2.7k for a similar non olds car of the same year! Maybe it depends
>on the location but here in Louisiana you could sell the car for 2k for
>sure!
>
>George


Just going by average asking prices in the local auto trader paper. Here in
Ct. it'd likely have frame rot behind the rear wheels. The 231 is a POS,
probly with a TH-200 tranny too. Not real desireable.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 07:06:04 -0700
From: "Andrew Conkey" <andrewc@novell.uidaho.edu>
Subject: Re: vin Y v.s. vin 9 PROM chips

You can't get by with making vague assumptions on *this* list! LOL

If the vin 'Y' and '9' PROMS differ in engine management - what 
about the different transmissions available in these cars? Is there a 
different PROM to control lock-up on the th200c vs the th200-4r? 

thanks everyone for the info....

..Andrew

From:           	"Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
To:             	<oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject:        	Re: vin Y v.s. vin 9 PROM chips was:Re: Hurst Parts
Date sent:      	Sat, 17 Apr 1999 09:47:37 -0400
Send reply to:  	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

> There is a difference.
> The ECM uses throttle position vs manifold vacuum for much of its decision
> making (when to activate ignition advance, EGR, TCC etc.). 'Y' motors make
> more part throttle vacuum.
> 
> drc
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------
> I have always wondered if there was a difference between the 'Y'
> and the '9' PROMs. Anybody know? My guess is none....
> 
> thanks
> 
> Andrew
> '84 Delta 88 - vin 'Y'
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 10:11:14 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: question on 455 heads

>...  Olds varied the compression ratio by changing the size of
>the dish in the piston, not the size of the combustion chamber in the head.
(As
>an aside, this actually makes for more efficient combustion, as a spherical
>combustion chamber is ideal).


Umm....I thought wedge shaped combustion chambers were more efficient.
"Squish" action and all that. Turbulence during compression, fuel doesn't
condense on the chamber walls.....hemi vs conventional heads?
I s'pose it depends on how you define efficiency.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 10:16:38 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: points to HEI, how?

>R46SX = 0.080" gap
>R46SZ = 0.060" gap
>
>Either will work, and could be considered stock for a GM HEI, but the
0.080s
>will cause the ignition to run at a much higher peak voltage, which while a
>good thing, really speeds up the demise of secondary ignition parts (rotor,
>cap, wires, etc.) and increases chances of arc or crossfire.


I understand that the .080 gap was a GM el-cheapo method to improve
emissions. But like you said, it took a toll on reliability.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 10:20:22 -0400
From: Miguel Morales <Mike.Morales@wcom.com>
Subject: SS-III Rims

Ok fellow olds listers. My Ralley wheels didn't sell on ebay. I'm surprised.
Maybe there is an all Olds consipracy! : )

Here's the deal 3 '84 Hurst/Olds wheels that have a red stripe. May fit the '83
in terms of color-matching as well. I'll give first crack at the list before
re-listing these rims. Two wheels are not-clearcoated and one is coated, having
been like that since I bought it as a dealer item about 6 yrs ago. Since the
clear-coated rim is basically new I'll sell it for $100.00. I'll sell the other
rims as follows:

$85.00 plus Shipping and Insurance for the pair.

$50/each plus shipping and Insurance.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 10:42:57 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: mud flaps on '84 Delta?

In reference to installing mud flaps, Most kits come with a "C" clip that
slips onto the fender well lip and clips on. the side of the clip facing the
tire has a type of screw post that you then poke through your mud flap then
screw a plastic winged nut onto. I have seen these mud flaps with
"Oldsmobile" scripts along the bottom ridge and rocket insignias on others
along the upright ridge. The "C" clips slip on and off without harming or
altering the actual wheel well lip.   Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Andrew Conkey <andrewc@novell.uidaho.edu>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 1999 9:32 AM
Subject: mud flaps on '84 Delta?


> Now, this is something I haven't seen discussed yet!
>
> I drive a couple of miles of gravel roads every day and flying gravel
> is taking its toll on my *black* paint. I also get 'fender burgs' of mud
> and gravel dust stuck under that back 1/4s. I am wondering if there
> are any 'stock' looking mud flaps available for an '84 Delta 88? Any
> recommendations? I haven't yet gone to the local autoparts store to
> find some generic ones.
>
> I have seen them on other full size cars, some look good, some
> look not so good....
>
> And... no, I don't want those 'big rig' mud flaps with the chrome
> silhouette of a well figured woman...
>
> ...Something with the older style olds rockets would be cool
> though... I kind of dread drilling any *extra* holes in my car for rust
> prevention, but this gravel is killing my paint!
>
> Thanks!
>
> Andrew
> '84 Delta 88
>

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1909
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