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cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1966


oldsmobile-digest       Wednesday, May 19 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1966



Re: 15" Olds Rims
Wheels for Sale
Correction: Re: 15" Olds Rims
Re: Codes, Prd #'s  etc..
Re: Power Tour
Re: Rocket Science Parts &c. 5/99 
Re: 69 H/O first time at track story follow-up
Re: 67 Cutlass vs. 97  Mustang
Re: Power Tour
Re: Pulling a PS Pulley ??
Dual Gate Question
Re: 15" Olds Rims
front end rebuild
Re: Stalwart Old 98
Re: Dual Gate Question
Boring Question!
Re: UNBOUNCE: Oldsmobile being given a sad farewell
Re: Boring Question!
Re: Boring Question!
Re: 69 H/O first time at track story follow-up
Car Craft
UNBOUNCE: 66 Cutlass 4 sale in LA
Re: Dual Gate Question
Re: Best way to lube speedometer cable????  +  Car Acronyms
Re: Codes, Prd #'s  etc..
Re: Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai-OR maybe just a better SCANNER
Olds video
Re: Car Craft
Re: Wasps! 
Re: steering grinding noise
Re: 69 H/O first time at track story follow-up
Re: EGR
Header Coatings
Re: Power Tour
Shaky Front end
Re: Wasps!
Re: Dynomax Headers
Re: Header Coatings
Re: Shaky Front end
Re: Shaky Front end
Re: Header Coatings
1967  442 Carb. NEEDED !
Re: Shaky Front end

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 23:09:41 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: 15" Olds Rims

R. Grant wrote:
> 
<Snipping>

> picked up a set of 15" Olds rims so that I could replace the one bad rim
> that I have. I then had 255/60/15 BFG'S mounted on the rear,
> I had one wheel rubbing on the back
> of the wheelwell by the frame noticed that the 15" Olds rims that I picked
> up have a different offset than the 442 rims by about 1/4-1/2 inch man was I
> POed 

The older olds rims had a 4.5 inch offset while the newer rims have a
3.5 inch offset.  Some rims may have a 3.75 inch offset.  I've never
seen it on an Olds rim but there are many Camaro rallye rims with a 3.75
inch offset, some Olds might have that too. 


> Just not my week why would Olds
> have the same rims but with different offsets ?

Different years, different suspension/wheel design, and wheels that look
the same cosmetically.  Most of the 77 and older rims in my experience
have a 4.5 inch offset.  The smaller 78-88 cutlii have a 3.5 inch offset
so they can better fit in the smaller wheelwels.  

Sorry about your misfortune.  Be sure to take a tape measure and
straightege the next time you go after wheels.  I had a similar problem
when I was trying to find 15x7 wheels for my 'Cruiser.  A big damn rack
of rims at the junkyard, and I couldn't scroung up four straight ones
with the same diameter, offset, and style.

Resorted to camaro rallies in the rear, olds rallies in the front, and
wheelcovers all around.  Hope you have better luck.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais
73 98 LS

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 23:03:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: Tom Lardner <lardner@UMDNJ.EDU>
Subject: Wheels for Sale

Hi,
I have 4 15x7" American Racing "Outlaw" rims for sale.  The tires are no
good, but they will fit any year Cutlass, I had them on my 85.  The wheels
are in near mint condition with NO curb rash.  Would prefer to sell
locally in NY/NJ/CT/PA, etc.  If you're willing to pay the $15 per wheel
shipping, let me know.  I'm looking for $200 for the set
Thanks
Tom

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 23:13:32 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Correction: Re: 15" Olds Rims

Just wanted to make a correction in my last post.  When I said offset I
actually meant backspacing.  Sorry about that.  Most G-body Cutlii rims
had 3.5 inches of backspace, while the earlier Cutlii had 4.5 inch
backspace.  

Greg Pruett

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 23:18:44 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Codes, Prd #'s  etc..

Robert F. McCarthy wrote:
> 
> Body tag off firewall (forgive poor rendition)
>              04D                               S
> ST-6533837  LAN  20941     BODY
> TR954-B             V-V               PAINT
> EXT  3D
> 4V  5FW

04D is the build date, 4th week (D) of April (04)

S - don't know what that is

ST-6533837 - 1965 (65) Oldsmobile (3) Cutlass Holiday Coupe (3837)

LAN - Lansing Fisher Body Plant

20941 - Fisher Body sequence number

RT954-B - trim code for Fawn interior (Fawn Morocceen seats, Parchment
White headliner, Dk. Fawn carpeting) B may be for bucket seats, but
don't hold me to that...

V-V - paint code for Almond Beige, upper and lower

EXT are options in option group number 1.  Option group 1 never has a
number 1 in front of it.  Other option groups always have the number in
front.  E is for option A01 Full Tinted Glass, X is for A31 Power
Windows, T is for A46 Power Bucket Seat (and maybe A41 Power Bench
Seat).

3D is option group 3 (3), D is for an Unconfirmed option, only seen with
interior accessory package (whatever that means).  Evidently there is no
option group 2, due to the lack of a 2**.  Group 2 includes the codes
for A/C, Console, Floor-mounted AT, 4spd or 3spd, Bi-Phonic Rear
Speaker, Power Antenna and 2 other "Unconfirmed" options.  Do you not
have any of these?

4V is the proof that it really is a 442.  Option group 4 (4), V is for
the W29 442 Side Trim.

5FW is option group 5 (5), F is believed to be the D33 Remote Mirror and
W is for A49 Deluxe Front (only) Seat Belts.

How close did we hit?

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 22:33:30 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Power Tour

When will they make their way here to Chicago, IL? Does anyone know?
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: C K <bloom9@juno.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Power Tour
> Date: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 1:26 PM
> 
> Hey all, this morning my wife and I parked on the side of Highway 169 and
> watched the Power Tour pass by on their way to St. Louis. 
> 
> It was really cool! We only saw three Olds, two '71 442's and one 72
> Cutlass, but they were very nice cars.
> 
> This definitely wetted our appitite for Dallas next month.
> 
> Fred Kemp
> bloom9@juno.com
> Tulsa, OK area
> '67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass(daily driver)
> 
> ___________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
> or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 23:29:24 EDT
From: ELemeh@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rocket Science Parts &c. 5/99 

ELEMEH@AOL.COM   NASHVILLE ,TENN  DO U HAVE A 68 CUTLASS CONV PARTS CAR OR 
ANY BODY PARTS FOR IT

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 22:56:35 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: 69 H/O first time at track story follow-up

the best I have ever read about the 69 H/O was 13.95 still good by anyones
standards ...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 6:50 PM
Subject: Re: 69 H/O first time at track story follow-up


> Mike McLeod wrote:
> >
> > 14.1 not bad, not bad at all. But to top that off you must have looked
great
> > going down the track in your 69 H/O! Way to go!
>
> I don't mean to question the time, however, I saw a show on SpeedVision
> about the 68 H/O and I believe it did the 1/4 in 13 something?  Wasn't
> the
> 69 roughly in the same ball park?
>
> Chris
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 00:06:58 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass vs. 97  Mustang

Mikeytvb@aol.com wrote:
> 
> did anyone notice that all mustangs look alike?  around here we call them "me
> too cars," cause everyone has one.  when was the last time you saw 2
> oldsmobiles with the same setup under the hood?

Wow, I thougth only us Blissfieldians called them "me too" cars. That
rules. but I have to admit, if I didn't own an Olds, I'd want a stang.

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
*************************
http://drive.to/73cutlass
- -----------------------
'73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
'70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
'75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
*************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 23:01:45 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Power Tour

just visited the power tour while they are here in KC there were a few nice
cars and a few wierd ones but did see a 69 442 W-30 convertible is this a
list member? dark red with black bumble bee stripe? local car very nice...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 10:33 PM
Subject: Re: Power Tour


> When will they make their way here to Chicago, IL? Does anyone know?
> Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
> ----------
> > From: C K <bloom9@juno.com>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Power Tour
> > Date: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 1:26 PM
> >
> > Hey all, this morning my wife and I parked on the side of Highway 169
and
> > watched the Power Tour pass by on their way to St. Louis.
> >
> > It was really cool! We only saw three Olds, two '71 442's and one 72
> > Cutlass, but they were very nice cars.
> >
> > This definitely wetted our appitite for Dallas next month.
> >
> > Fred Kemp
> > bloom9@juno.com
> > Tulsa, OK area
> > '67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass(daily driver)
> >
> > ___________________________________________________________________
> > You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> > Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
> > or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 23:02:44 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Pulling a PS Pulley ??

dam thought you might be onto something there....LOL...KK
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: mrhell <mrhell@sprynet.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 7:40 PM
Subject: Re: Pulling a PS Pulley ??


> <hmmmmmm how do ya change the shaft seal with the pulley on there? just
> kidding>
> 
> 
> 
> Well I didn't say I rebuilt the whole thing, only the leaky parts!  LOL
> *>)   You know, "If it's not broke............
> 
> RC Hellebuyck  -  OCA #30213
> 1971 4-4-2 convt
> See my car and over 40 other Olds' at:
> http://home.sprynet.com/~mrhell/oakbud.htm
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 00:11:40 EDT
From: Bbymks4@aol.com
Subject: Dual Gate Question

              Hi everyone, I just purchased a Dual gate shifter for my ' 73 
442, The only
    problem is that it is missing the reverse switch. I've heard that they 
make repro's
    of these switches. Does anyone know who sells them? Thanks in advance,
                                               from........Steve M.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 23:09:53 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: 15" Olds Rims

Hi Brian,
	just to clarify what I said before, 

	Backspacing-the distance from the inside surface of the wheel where it
bolts to the hub and the edge of the inner lip where the tire bead sits.

	Offset-the distance from the inside surface of the wheel where it bolts
to the hub and the center of the tire.

	So theoretically a 8" wide rim with a backspace of 5" should have an
offset of 1" (5" - (8"/2)).

I hope this defuzzicates the obtuscusion,
- -- 

Cliff "Lost" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 01:29:50 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: front end rebuild

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0047_01BEA197.167A4CC0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hello all,
There has been alot of folks asking about rebuilding fronts ends.  It is =
a difficut job,  but I made my own press to help with the process.  If =
anyone would like to see the press please go to my web site.  The press =
is very simple,  but I hope it will help.  The only thing I covered was =
the bushing removal.  The other aspects of the rebuild are covered by =
PST very well.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html

- ------=_NextPart_000_0047_01BEA197.167A4CC0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Hello all,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>There has been alot of folks asking about rebuilding =
fronts=20
ends.&nbsp; It is a difficut job,&nbsp; but I made my own press to help =
with the=20
process.&nbsp; If anyone would like to see the press please go to my web =

site.&nbsp;&nbsp;The press is very simple,&nbsp; but I hope it will =
help.&nbsp;=20
The only thing I covered was the bushing removal.&nbsp; The other =
aspects of the=20
rebuild are covered by PST very well.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A><BR>Steve<BR>North=20
Carolina<BR>ICQ#26466860<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html">http://members.xoo=
m.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html</A></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0047_01BEA197.167A4CC0--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 22:43:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: EDMUND WILLIAMS <efw67@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Stalwart Old 98

- --- Peter Berusch <berusch@mindspring.com> wrote:
>   My little baby girl (17 years old) was out in my
> 69 98 LS hardtop (The
> Hornet).  Wet, dark night.  A car darted out from a
> side street, another
> driver veered to avoid the intruder and piled into
> the rear of The Hornet.
> The Ford that hit The Hornet was wreckered off.  The
> Hornet's rear bumper is
> mis-aligned and the quarter panel has a smush.  But,
> Little Girl drove off
> and came home.  She said "Dad, this car is built
> like a tank".  I told her
> that that is why she was in it.  C bodies rule. 
> Peter.
> 
> Peter, i agree. I have a 70 Delta88 4dr and everybody calls it the
tank my coworkers, my brother, and my lady friends call it the
"hooptie" because it has so much room for almost anything. I wouldn't
sell my 88 for anything in the world! Buy the way, I need good fenders
for her. If you know anyone that's looking to part out a 70 88 or 98
please let me know. Thanks, ED from New York

_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 22:52:58 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Question

Bbymks4@aol.com wrote:
> 
>               Hi everyone, I just purchased a Dual gate shifter for my ' 73
> 442, The only
>     problem is that it is missing the reverse switch. I've heard that they
> make repro's
>     of these switches. Does anyone know who sells them? Thanks in advance,
>                                                from........Steve M.



Steve,

The 1973 neutral/backup light switch should be the same 
switch regardless of whether standard console AT shifter 
or Dual Gate equipped.  As this switch is located on the
steering column, it is activated by the rods/linkage that
enable the park/lock feature of the steering column and
shifter.  Rather than the 1970 and earlier style neutral/
backup switches which were activated by a shifter mounted 
switch.  

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Web Site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com
- -------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 22:56:14 PDT
From: "Richard Nogin" <wickett66@hotmail.com>
Subject: Boring Question!

Ok this is not olds but I have a bet riding on it.  QA friend has a 68 
Cougar XR7 with a 302.  He took the engine to the shop and it needed to be 
bored .030  or 30 over which ever way you like it.  The question is what 
would that make the cid?  I say aroung 306 to 312 max.  He says around 330.  
What do you guys think.  Thanks!!!


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 23:04:51 -0700 (PDT)
From: EDMUND WILLIAMS <efw67@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Oldsmobile being given a sad farewell

- --- Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca> wrote:
> Not on the list as far as I can tell, respond to
> brain@mail.jbrain.com
> 
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth,
> Nova Scotia, Canada
>    --- Olds List Admin Instructions at:
> http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
>              & 
> http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm
> 
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From:	brain@luis.yourwebhost.com
> Subject: Oldsmobile being given a sad farewell
> 
> I start this rare note to the list on a sad tone.
> 
> I have a 1979 Cutlass Supreme Brogham, with Moonroof
> and the pillow seats... 
> 
> I took it into the garage the other day to get it
> fixed up to drive (I
> tinkered with the idea of restoring it someday, but
> not at this time), and the
> mechanic (very reputable, IMHO), called with very
> bad news.  The car needs
> thousands of dollars of work to get it back into
> great condition, and $1500 at
> least to get it just commute ready.
> 
> I went home and discussed with my wife, and we just
> don't have that kind of
> money to dump into the car, no matter how nice it
> is/was...  Right now, my new
> son is pretty much my entire hobby.   I dearly
> wanted to keep it, but I think
> it is just too far gone  (the mechanic said he
> didn;t think it was worth it to
> put anything into it).
> 
> So, I am asking for opinions.... I feel I have two
> options....:
> 
> Store the car for 10 years or so, until it becomes a
> classic and I have more
> time to decide what to do with it....
> 
> Or....
> 
> Sell the car, either as a base for a restore now, or
> as parts.
> 
> Does anyone have any thoughts?
> 
> I very much enjoyed this car (it was my #2 vehicle
> in HS), and my wife enjoys
> it and the ride as well.  But, it has a number of
> things not going for it:
> 
> It has been in a wreck
> The engine is gone (will need to the be replaced)
> Mechanic says tranny is gone, will need replaced
> 
> 
> However, as a gem for someone else, it may be worth
> something:
> I have purchased a new interior (vinyl and good
> pillow seats, blue)
> It has the coveted factory moonroof (with perfect
> glass)
> rally wheels in good condition
> Dash is new (got it for free, long story)
> 
> So, what do folks think I should do?  Is anyone
> interested in this car for a
> few hundred dollars or some parts off it that would
> make it worthwhile to part
> it out?  Do folks think I should sit on it for a few
> years, and then restore
> it.
> 
> I appreciate any answers you may have....  
> 
> Jim Brain
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Jim Brain, Embedded System Designer, Brain
> Innovations, Inc. (BII) (online sig)
> bii@mail.jbrain.com "Above views DO reflect my
> employer, since I'm my employer"
> Dabbling in WWW, Embedded Systems, Old CBM
> computers, and Good Times!      -Me-
> BII Home: http://www.jbrain.com          CBM Info:
> http://www.jbrain.com/vicug/
> 
> Jim, I know how you feel. I have an 85 Cutlass Brougham loaded with
options sitting in my driveway. It too was in an accident. (my wife
wrecked it) i too want to fix it back up. It was hit in the nose, but
it still runs good. it's been sitting for about 5 months, but I start
it up all the time. I want to drive it to work on a daily basis because
i have two more cars another 85 cutlass supreme and a 70 Delta 88(I'm
not selling that!) So I say if you love the car keep it. If you don't
have the money now, cover it up and map out how you are going to put it
back together, believe me, your not alone when it comes to not having
money. Take your time and you will get that 79 cutlass back in shape.
Write me back. Ed from New York

_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 23:27:10 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Boring Question!

Richard Nogin wrote:
> 
> Ok this is not olds but I have a bet riding on it.  QA friend has a 68
> Cougar XR7 with a 302.  He took the engine to the shop and it needed to be
> bored .030  or 30 over which ever way you like it.  The question is what
> would that make the cid?  I say aroung 306 to 312 max.  He says around 330.
> What do you guys think.  Thanks!!!



Richard, the formula for engine displacement is:
Bore X bore X stroke X .7854 X # of cyl. = cid
Hope you bet a bunch......


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Web site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 01:33:03 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: Boring Question!

Leave it to Mr. Supercars to beat me to the punch...was just trying to get
it straight in my mind (how to get CID figures), had just found the
Mondello tech book (with the bore and stroke figures) among the disaster
that was my moving to Houston, and thought, "Hmm...I'll check my mail to
see if anyone else has related why this will NOT be a 330..."

Thank you, drive thru!

At 11:27 PM 5/18/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Richard Nogin wrote:
>> 
>> Ok this is not olds but I have a bet riding on it.  QA friend has a 68
>> Cougar XR7 with a 302.  He took the engine to the shop and it needed to be
>> bored .030  or 30 over which ever way you like it.  The question is what
>> would that make the cid?  I say aroung 306 to 312 max.  He says around 330.
>> What do you guys think.  Thanks!!!
>
>
>
>Richard, the formula for engine displacement is:
>Bore X bore X stroke X .7854 X # of cyl. = cid
>Hope you bet a bunch......
>
>
>Greg Rollin
>Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
>Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249
>
>Web site:
>http://www.supercarsunlimited.com
>
>E-mail: supercars@transport.com
> 
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -------------
Brian Ammons	ICQ - 3585737
5606 Grape		b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
Houston, TX 77096	http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
			Home:	713-776-2110
1984 Oldsmobile	Pager:	713-318-5938
	Delta 88 RB
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- --------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 02:49:58 EDT
From: Mrmagic442@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69 H/O first time at track story follow-up

In a message dated 5/18/99 8:57:42 PM Pacific Daylight Time, kerryk@cwix.com 
writes:

<< 
 the best I have ever read about the 69 H/O was 13.95 still good by anyones
 standards ...KK >>

   I could swear there is a Motor Trend Magazine from the early 70's that 
tested a 69 H/O on stock tires and got 13.33 with minor dist. and carb 
adjustments. I read the article myself back in 1978 about 9 months after 
getting my first car at the age if 15. It was the 69 H/O I still have today 
that I bought for $750.00... Someone has to have access to that magazine.

        Jeff
  69 H/O
  71 W-30	
  85 FE3X Concept Car clone in progress

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 03:42:27 -0500
From: Mark <greenmm@earthlink.net>
Subject: Car Craft

Since no one has written about the "Make your own issue, you all wrote
or called in to Car Craft, right??

  Hope so...the issue should be around the beginning of next year or so


Mark

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 06:58:47 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 66 Cutlass 4 sale in LA

Reply to M1erica@aol.com if interested.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Hans Naepflin <mitzm@mail.earthlinl.net>
Subject: 66 Cutlass 4 sale in LA

Please forward any questions on this car to he owner Mary Simpson
(M1erica@aol.com).  She is located in Placentia California, near
Anaheim.

66 Cutlass 2 door with 59000 original miles (the usual grandma's car
situation).
California car with black plates. No rust, some minor dings on the
body.  Older white repaint.  330, AT, AC (not working),  Buckets,
Console, Original tach on console.  VERY nice blue interior.  Engine
starts up instantly and idles butter smooth.  I didn't drive it but the
front tie rods feel a bit worn.  Car has been driven fairly regularly
for the last few years.

She wants $3500 firm.  I really don't need this car but may go for it if
no one else snags it.   A few months ago I asked the the list how much
it was worth and there were a couple of guys who showed some interest.
Here's your chance at an exceptionally clean original, unrestored car.

FYI
Hans

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 06:50:25 EDT
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: Dual Gate Question

i'm pretty sure that on 73's the reverse switch was on the column.  i know it 
is this way on a regular shifter.  i'm not completely sure about the duel 
gate.

mikeytvb@aol.com
70 442 hc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 07:32:18 -0400
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: Best way to lube speedometer cable????  +  Car Acronyms

Scott Mountney asks:

> Any tips out there for the noisy speedometer cable?   Mine makes a small
> noise.......probably only will get worse.    I am not sure what type of lube
> to use either, or what is the best way to apply it.

I've used those needle lube tubes (can't think of a brand name offhand) that
one sees at the counter of auto parts places & Home Depot & such that costs
a couple bucks.  Just disconnect at the speedo, and squeeze some in.  I think
that graphite lubes are available this way, and may work better -- Heck,
*that* may be what I used, now that I think of it... I can't remember.

<Homer S. v.o.>  D'oh!  Stupid Alzheimer's Disease!

Then he dregs up the incomparable:

> You also forgot a classic that has been around for more years than
> myself....
> FIAT
> Fix It Again Tony

FIAT ==> Feeble Italian Attempt (at) Transportation

Tim (Ex-Fiat Owner and Got the Scanned Pix to Prove It) Churchill
tchurchill@draper.com  OCA #30327  Framingham, MA
- ----------------------------------------------------------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, new a.k.a 'Old Gold'
'98 VW Passat GLS Wagon, a.k.a. 'der Kinderwagen'

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 07:53:50 -0400
From: "Robert McCarthy" <robm4@gis.net>
Subject: Re: Codes, Prd #'s  etc..

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BEA1CC.BBAB0420
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Where do you get all this info....  Also see reply notes below.
Good job you get an A+ from me, if you are ever in the Boston area gimme =
a shout I owe you a beer.
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Paul Hartlieb=20
  To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca=20
  Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 11:18 PM
  Subject: Re: Codes, Prd #'s etc..


  Robert F. McCarthy wrote:
  >=20
  > Body tag off firewall (forgive poor rendition)
  >              04D                               S
  > ST-6533837  LAN  20941     BODY
  > TR954-B             V-V               PAINT
  > EXT  3D
  > 4V  5FW

  04D is the build date, 4th week (D) of April (04)
  Look good to me..
  S - don't know what that is
  Me neither
  ST-6533837 - 1965 (65) Oldsmobile (3) Cutlass Holiday Coupe (3837)
  also same in form VIN
  LAN - Lansing Fisher Body Plant
  Ditto on the VIN
  20941 - Fisher Body sequence number

  RT954-B - trim code for Fawn interior (Fawn Morocceen seats, Parchment
  White headliner, Dk. Fawn carpeting) B may be for bucket seats, but
  don't hold me to that...
  It does have Fawn interior (sorta med to light brown) with Dk brown =
rugs and a white headliner.  And yes low back bucket seats.
  V-V - paint code for Almond Beige, upper and lower
  Bingo !  (kinda a lame color if you ask me but it'll stay)
  EXT are options in option group number 1.  Option group 1 never has a
  number 1 in front of it.  Other option groups always have the number =
in
  front.  E is for option A01 Full Tinted Glass, X is for A31 Power
  Windows, T is for A46 Power Bucket Seat (and maybe A41 Power Bench
  Seat).
  Got tinted glass (very light tint and green strip across top of =
windsheild)
  Got power windows and power seat, drivers side only
  3D is option group 3 (3), D is for an Unconfirmed option, only seen =
with
  interior accessory package (whatever that means).  Evidently there is =
no
  option group 2, due to the lack of a 2**.  Group 2 includes the codes
  for A/C, Console, Floor-mounted AT, 4spd or 3spd, Bi-Phonic Rear
  Speaker, Power Antenna and 2 other "Unconfirmed" options.  Do you not
  have any of these?
  NO: A/C, console, manual tranny, rear speaker or power antenna.  Looks =
like a fit.
  4V is the proof that it really is a 442.  Option group 4 (4), V is for
  the W29 442 Side Trim.
  Going by the engine code - it is a '65 only 400 CID w/ 4BBL, and it =
has 442 badges on both quaters and on the dash. No emblems on the grill =
or rear (is this right?)
  5FW is option group 5 (5), F is believed to be the D33 Remote Mirror =
and
  W is for A49 Deluxe Front (only) Seat Belts.
  It has a remote mirror, drivers side only, front lap belts, and
  How close did we hit?
  Looks like you hit the nail on the head.  Thanks alot, looks like my =
442 has never been molested, and has some cool options.
  Paul
  --=20
  Paul Hartlieb
  Myerstown, PA
  mailto:plh@nbn.net


- ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BEA1CC.BBAB0420
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000080 face=3D"Century Gothic" size=3D3>Where do you =
get all this=20
info....&nbsp; Also see reply notes below.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000080 face=3D"Century Gothic">Good job you get an =
A+ from me,=20
if you are ever in the Boston area gimme a shout I owe you a =
beer.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000080 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A href=3D"mailto:plh@nbn.net" title=3Dplh@nbn.net>Paul Hartlieb</A> =
</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A=20
  href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca"=20
  title=3Doldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Tuesday, May 18, 1999 =
11:18=20
PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Codes, Prd #'s =
etc..</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV>Robert F. McCarthy wrote:<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; Body tag off firewall =
(forgive=20
  poor=20
  =
rendition)<BR>&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
  =
04D&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
  S<BR>&gt; ST-6533837&nbsp; LAN&nbsp; 20941&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
  BODY<BR>&gt;=20
  =
TR954-B&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;=20
  =
V-V&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
  PAINT<BR>&gt; EXT&nbsp; 3D<BR>&gt; 4V&nbsp; 5FW<BR><BR>04D is the =
build date,=20
  4th week (D) of April (04)<BR><FONT color=3D#000080 face=3D"Century =
Gothic"=20
  size=3D3>Look good to me..</FONT><BR>S - don't know what that =
is<BR><FONT=20
  color=3D#000080 face=3D"Century Gothic" size=3D3>Me =
neither</FONT><BR>ST-6533837 -=20
  1965 (65) Oldsmobile (3) Cutlass Holiday Coupe (3837)<BR><FONT =
color=3D#000080=20
  face=3D"Century Gothic" size=3D3>also same in form VIN</FONT><BR>LAN - =
Lansing=20
  Fisher Body Plant<BR><FONT color=3D#000080 face=3D"Century Gothic" =
size=3D3>Ditto on=20
  the VIN</FONT><BR>20941 - Fisher Body sequence number<BR><BR>RT954-B - =
trim=20
  code for Fawn interior (Fawn Morocceen seats, Parchment<BR>White =
headliner,=20
  Dk. Fawn carpeting) B may be for bucket seats, but<BR>don't hold me to =

  that...<BR><FONT color=3D#000080 face=3D"Century Gothic" size=3D3>It =
does have Fawn=20
  interior (sorta med to light brown) with Dk brown rugs and a white=20
  headliner.&nbsp; And yes low back bucket seats.</FONT><BR>V-V - paint =
code for=20
  Almond Beige, upper and lower<BR><FONT color=3D#000080 face=3D"Century =
Gothic"=20
  size=3D3>Bingo !&nbsp; (kinda a lame color if you ask me but it'll=20
  stay)</FONT><BR>EXT are options in option group number 1.&nbsp; Option =
group 1=20
  never has a<BR>number 1 in front of it.&nbsp; Other option groups =
always have=20
  the number in<BR>front.&nbsp; E is for option A01 Full Tinted Glass, X =
is for=20
  A31 Power<BR>Windows, T is for A46 Power Bucket Seat (and maybe A41 =
Power=20
  Bench<BR>Seat).<BR><FONT color=3D#000080 face=3D"Century Gothic" =
size=3D3>Got tinted=20
  glass (very light tint and green strip across top of =
windsheild)</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=3D#000080 face=3D"Century Gothic">Got power windows =
and power=20
  seat, drivers side only</FONT><BR>3D is option group 3 (3), D is for =
an=20
  Unconfirmed option, only seen with<BR>interior accessory package =
(whatever=20
  that means).&nbsp; Evidently there is no<BR>option group 2, due to the =
lack of=20
  a 2**.&nbsp; Group 2 includes the codes<BR>for A/C, Console, =
Floor-mounted AT,=20
  4spd or 3spd, Bi-Phonic Rear<BR>Speaker, Power Antenna and 2 other=20
  "Unconfirmed" options.&nbsp; Do you not<BR>have any of these?<BR><FONT =

  color=3D#000080 face=3D"Century Gothic" size=3D3>NO: A/C, console, =
manual tranny,=20
  rear speaker or power antenna.&nbsp; Looks like a fit.</FONT><BR>4V is =
the=20
  proof that it really is a 442.&nbsp; Option group 4 (4), V is =
for<BR>the W29=20
  442 Side Trim.<BR><FONT color=3D#000080 face=3D"Century Gothic" =
size=3D3>Going by=20
  the engine code - it is a '65 only 400 CID w/ 4BBL, and it has 442 =
badges on=20
  both quaters and on the dash. No emblems on the grill or rear (is this =

  right?)</FONT><BR>5FW is option group 5 (5), F is believed to be the =
D33=20
  Remote Mirror and<BR>W is for A49 Deluxe Front (only) Seat =
Belts.<BR><FONT=20
  color=3D#000080 face=3D"Century Gothic" size=3D3>It has a remote =
mirror, drivers=20
  side only, front lap belts, and</FONT><BR>How close did we =
hit?<BR><FONT=20
  color=3D#000080 face=3D"Century Gothic" size=3D3>Looks like you hit =
the nail on the=20
  head.&nbsp; Thanks alot, looks like my 442 has never been molested, =
and has=20
  some cool options.</FONT><BR>Paul<BR>-- <BR>Paul =
Hartlieb<BR>Myerstown,=20
  PA<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:plh@nbn.net">mailto:plh@nbn.net</A><BR></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>=
</BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0014_01BEA1CC.BBAB0420--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 07:38:18 CDT
From: "Steve Traynor" <dartster@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai-OR maybe just a better 
SCANNER

Try one of these: Microtek X6 (Can be difficult to install, but great 
scans), Umax 1200S, Hewlett Packard 5P (I think that's the model). Pricing 
varies from 125 to 299, but all three of these are great scanners. (I do 
tech support for Microtek, as well as other companies).

Steve aka the Dartster
'70 Cutlass S Hardtop


steve harris wrote:
 >
 > I agree with Cliff.  The scanner provides a much better image than the
 > digital camera.  I have used both,  and 100$ scanner is the best for the
 > buck.  OK... anyway look on Ebay or other aution area for good prices.  I
 > have used the Kodak(cheap model),  but dont remember the model number.  I 
do
 > remember it was the cheap one.  It produces a good image.  Shop around 
for
 > one that has a good software bundel with it.  A good one should give you 
at
 > least Adobe Photoshop 2.0 or higher.  Hope it helps.  Sorry I couldnt be
 > more specific about the camera.
 > meso@pamlico.net
 > Steve

Well, so far the only one I've been half way impressed with is the Kodak
210plus at %450 from Sam's.  As for the scanners, what would you
sugggest for a GOOD scanner in the low price ($150 area of less)?  I'm
open for suggestions both ways.  I bought a scanner from Wal-Mart for
around $95 that lasted less than two weeks.  Took it back and got a
refund and swore off scanners.  But I'm sure you people are more up on
this stuff than I am.


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 21:24:58 +0900
From: Nick Dean <freewolf@msa.attmil.ne.jp>
Subject: Olds video

Who here has seen the Monte Warden video for "It's Only Love"?  Who here
has heard of Monte Warden?  Anyway, this new artist has the same good
taste in cars as all of us Oldsmoholics, cause there's a blue Cutlass
convert costarring in this love story.  I couldn't tell what year it
was, didn't get a shot of the back, but in a scene with the hood up, I
thought I saw a long tongue, making it a 70.  Gots a big scratch in the
front passenger fender, up by the headlight (why they gave a closeup to
that spot is anyone's call).  Can it be stated yet that Olds' are now
more popular for depicting the true American glory cars in TV
appearances than f*rds or chebbies?  It's starting to seem that way. 
It's good to see, unless it causes too many people to want them and make
parts scarce.  Just the latest Olds on TV sighting from me, and if I'm
behind on this one like I was on the last one, don't blame me, I'm in
Japan, where this base just got CMT (where I saw the video).  We only
have 8 channels total ('sides Japanese), three brand new.

Nick (never miss an Olds on TV) Dean, signing off.
'72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 08:58:06 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Car Craft

Yup, I mailed mine in.  Nice work with the form.!
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: Mark <greenmm@earthlink.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 4:42 AM
Subject: Car Craft


> Since no one has written about the "Make your own issue, you all wrote
> or called in to Car Craft, right??
> 
>   Hope so...the issue should be around the beginning of next year or so
> 
> 
> Mark
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 08:57:32 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Wasps! 

Years ago, a friend of mine had a jeep where wasps had built a nest in the 
door jamb. He simply took a can of freon (probably too expensive a solution 
today) instantly froze them, and they cracked like ice on the ground when he 
stepped on them.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 06:11:22 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: steering grinding noise

Maybe somehow the steering wheel is rubbing on the
column? I know that in my Olds, the steering wheel
looks like it was hit by a torch once. It melted the
big plastic circle that covers up the hole where it
mates with the column. When I turn the wheel, it has a
slight rubbing noise where the plastic hits the
column. Just a thought.

- --- steve harris <meso@pamlico.net> wrote:
> I dont know what to tell ya dude.  I think there are
> sealed bearings in the
> column.  That could be it.  My 71 442 does not have
> a boot on it.  There is
> a bearing at the firewall(at least in the diagram 
> there is).  If you feel
> real ambitious.............I would try to tear down
> the column,  and lube it
> up.  I have never heard of this problem before.
> meso@pamlico.net
> Steve
> North Carolina
> ICQ#26466860
> http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 1:11 PM
> Subject: Re: steering grinding noise
> 
> 
> > In a message dated 5/17/99 3:01:27 PM EST,
> JonKrisInc writes:
> >
> > << Steering wheel has a grinding noise when it
> turns. Steering gear is
> less
> > than a year old, no leaks, fluid full. There is a
> rubber boot on the
> steering
> > column next to the firewall. Does this need to be
> lubed? Sounds like it
> may
> > be coming from inside the column. Anybody ever
> have these symptoms before?
> >  Bruce
> >  75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course) >>
> >
> > Anybody out there?
> >
> 
> 

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 09:29:04 -0400
From: "Shokouhi, Mike" <ShokouhM@nasd.com>
Subject: Re: 69 H/O first time at track story follow-up

Your probably correct with the high 13s for the '68, I think with just a
little more basic tuning (and a recurve) i can get her into the high
13.8s.  Now remember that this is an a/c car (weight) w/3.23s.  If this
was a non-ac car, we are talking 3.91s and a bit less weight!  However,I
do believe that the '68 non-ac car had more torque than the '69 H/O (no
diff. between a/c and non in '69).  

Mike 

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 16:50:43 -0700
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: 69 H/O first time at track story follow-up

Mike McLeod wrote:
>=20
> 14.1 not bad, not bad at all. But to top that off you must have looked =
great
> going down the track in your 69 H/O! Way to go!

I don't mean to question the time, however, I saw a show on SpeedVision
about the 68 H/O and I believe it did the 1/4 in 13 something?  Wasn't
the
69 roughly in the same ball park?

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 07:12:28 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: EGR

>I disconnected the vacuum hose leading to the EGR valve on
>my '78 350 in the Delta 88. [...] It has been disconnected
>on and off for the past month.
[...]
>Any thoughts?

Why are you disconnecting it? Or to put it another way, what engine problem 
are you trying to correct here?

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 07:18:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Header Coatings

Okay, Dynomax is looking like the brand of headers I
may go with. (Unless someone can give me a good reason
not to.) Someone brought up an interesting point
though. Will hammering on a header with the Jet-Hot
coating make the coating crack or flake? I'd hate to
have that coating crack. Someone has to of had
experience with this? 

TIA
Del

Just a side note, so far the help from this list has
been great! My Olds will look like new again! I got
new carpet installed and am moving on to the front
suspension in a week or two so you may want to prepare
for a list full of questions! *LOL*
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 10:20:07 EDT
From: Oldsfire@aol.com
Subject: Re: Power Tour

Steve, The Oldsmobile Club of  America is holding their National show in 
Irving Texas from June 23 thru June 27.   Big Car show and Swap meet!!!    
John.   Oldsfire@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 09:20:45 -0500
From: "Johnson, Samuel" <SJohnso6@allstate.com>
Subject: Shaky Front end

I need help to figure why my front end shakes when I apply the brakes at hi
speed.  I had the rotors cut and that seem to have solved the problem but
now the problem has resurfaced again.  what could have caused this?  Do my
rotors need cutting again or am I using the wrong brakes?  Please help.

Sam Johnson
71 Cutlass 455
95 Ford Thunderbird

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 09:23:24 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Wasps!

that is interesting you could use electronic component chiller cools things
down really cold really fast....KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 7:57 AM
Subject: Re: Wasps!


> Years ago, a friend of mine had a jeep where wasps had built a nest in the
> door jamb. He simply took a can of freon (probably too expensive a
solution
> today) instantly froze them, and they cracked like ice on the ground when
he
> stepped on them.
> Bruce
> 75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course)
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 09:27:31 -0500
From: Wyatt <Wyatt@jobax.net>
Subject: Re: Dynomax Headers

Rock Man wrote:

> Has anyone used the Dynomax Jet-Hot coated headers?

I have a set on my car and would not recommend them.  They are nothing
more than a set of  $89.95 headers (read cheap) that have been Jet Hot
coated.  Mine rubbed on the clutch equalizer shaft until I vigorously
massaged the offending tube,  the tubes were a little longer between the
flange and the first turn which was part of the clutch linkage bind,
plus it caused the bottom of the drivers side to rub against the starter
when they compensated for the extra length at the flange, the right side
collector sits 1/2 inch lower than the left which is another problem
when the left side hangs too low to begin with.  Combine that with
slightly sagging original springs and you have instant clearance
problems that make speed bumps a major hazard.

As far as the coating is concerned, it seems to be doing well.  I did
notice a few spots of what appears to be rust on the collectors, but I
have not checked it out since I have ignored the car so far this year.
(I would have been looking if I had not broken my leg  6 weeks ago when
I was ready to start playing with the Olds.)  They did not bother to
coat the adapters that go between the headers and the exhaust pipes.  So
now I have silver headers and pipes (aluminized pipes) with rusty
adapters.

From my experience I would say if you have to have headers, get the
Hookers and send them out to be coated along with the adapters.  I will
go back to the original manifolds next time and no more headers on the
Olds.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 09:26:09 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Header Coatings

it wont crack it is metallic ceramic very tough stuff but be advised that
the ceramicoat headers still rust although not as bad as the painted ones
but as for dinging for fit they will take some but dont get wacky
PS I just ordered the painted ones for my 69...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
To: Oldsmobile E-mail Ring <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 9:18 AM
Subject: Header Coatings


> Okay, Dynomax is looking like the brand of headers I
> may go with. (Unless someone can give me a good reason
> not to.) Someone brought up an interesting point
> though. Will hammering on a header with the Jet-Hot
> coating make the coating crack or flake? I'd hate to
> have that coating crack. Someone has to of had
> experience with this?
>
> TIA
> Del
>
> Just a side note, so far the help from this list has
> been great! My Olds will look like new again! I got
> new carpet installed and am moving on to the front
> suspension in a week or two so you may want to prepare
> for a list full of questions! *LOL*
> ===
> Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> rockman20@yahoo.com
> 1986 Honda Accord DX
> 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
> 1981 John Deer Snowmobile
> 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
> 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
> _____________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 07:28:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Shaky Front end

Sometimes you can warp a rotor. The easiest way to do
this is if you have gotten them really hot, hard
braking, and then hit a puddle of water. That cold
water on a hot rotor can warp it pretty easily. My
Honda use to have the same shake. I bought new rotors
and they worked fine, but it is starting it again. I
think it may be a worn drive shaft on the passenger
side though that causes the shake now though.

- --- "Johnson, Samuel" <SJohnso6@allstate.com> wrote:
> I need help to figure why my front end shakes when I
> apply the brakes at hi
> speed.  I had the rotors cut and that seem to have
> solved the problem but
> now the problem has resurfaced again.  what could
> have caused this?  Do my
> rotors need cutting again or am I using the wrong
> brakes?  Please help.
> 
> Sam Johnson
> 71 Cutlass 455
> 95 Ford Thunderbird
> 

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 10:38:49 EDT
From: Knightvd@aol.com
Subject: Re: Shaky Front end

In a message dated 5/19/99 9:22:43 AM Central Daylight Time, 
SJohnso6@allstate.com writes:

<< I need help to figure why my front end shakes when I apply the brakes at hi
 speed.  I had the rotors cut and that seem to have solved the problem but
 now the problem has resurfaced again.  what could have caused this?  Do my
 rotors need cutting again or am I using the wrong brakes?  Please help. >>

I'm assuming you used new brake pads after you had the rotors cut?  At any 
rate, your rotors or rotor(may only be one) may have become warped due to 
overheating.  Even though you had the rotors cut this pattern probably 
returned after some usage.  It seems like once they are in this condition it 
is impossible to correct permanently.  I think your best bet is to get some 
new rotors or rotor(if you can figure out which one has the runout).  

Vince Knight
71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 09:44:31 -0500
From: Wyatt <Wyatt@jobax.net>
Subject: Re: Header Coatings

Rock Man wrote:

> Will hammering on a header with the Jet-Hot
> coating make the coating crack or flake? I'd hate to
> have that coating crack. Someone has to of had
> experience with this?
>

Oh yes I forgot to mention that when I finally got the clearance for the
clutch equalizer shaft by massaging the header tube, the coating did
crack.  In retrospect I should have fired up the torch and heated the
area before applying the hammer as I have heard this will let the tubing
and the coating bend.  Just a rumor, but worth a try.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 09:54:56 -0700
From: "Mike Siedlik" <mjsiedl@megavision.com>
Subject: 1967  442 Carb. NEEDED !

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_00DA_01BEA1DD.A6A18480
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

HI ALL
 Just last weekend Barb, Dave V. and I went out to Wyoming and bought a =
1967 442 from the second owner of this car. Talk about a nice original =
car! This 442 is RED on the outside and RED on the inside. NO RUST. The =
guy told me since he has owned it that it was never driven in rain. And =
always garaged, the inside of this car has no discoloration of the red =
interior, even the carpet is beautiful, just a few rips in the drivers =
seat. This 442 was optioned with a 4speed, console, NO power steering or =
brakes, 3:90 gears and "No posi". somewear along its life it recieved =
SS1 wheels (no decal for wheel storage in trunk) along with a SUN tach =
mounted to the colum, and a set of gauges under the dash. In the engine =
compartment sat a 1968-9 400 motor with a 1966 L-69 (3x2) intake and =
carbs. At the time I was talking to him he said the orignal engine =
started to have a rod knocking and he bought this engine out of a 1966 =
442 so I assumed it was the correct 400. This motor purrs like a kitten, =
but step on the gas pedal and it moves like a scalded Cat ! On the pad =
on  the drivers side has large #'s meaning it's a replacement block. =
Before the Nats down in Dallas it will be getting a correct 400 motor =
that I've had on a motor stand for a year, Bored it .057 over. SO thats =
why I need a 1967 442 Carb. I believe the # is 7027156   Anything will =
be OK. I'm replacing the battery and cables with the Repro battery and =
cables and ordered redlines from coker. I think the nicks and dings on =
this car will give it character ! O by the way this car has NO rust, and =
I could hardly beleave it but I found a few spots of nonsurfacerusted =
framerail (real steel) You can also tell the hood has been repainted. =
The chambered exhaust is still there, he just replaced the mufflers with =
glasspacks(they will be replaced). Found some papers when it was =
Inspected in 1977 the car had 71,000, the car now has 72,600. The car =
wasn't cheap but you don't find these very often !

                                                                         =
   THANKS FOR LISTENING     MIKE SIEDLIK

- ------=_NextPart_000_00DA_01BEA1DD.A6A18480
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

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<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>HI ALL</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;Just last weekend Barb, Dave =
V. and I went=20
out to Wyoming and bought a 1967 442 from the second owner of this car. =
Talk=20
about a nice original car! This 442 is RED on the outside and RED on the =
inside.=20
NO RUST. The guy told me since he has owned it that it was never driven =
in rain.=20
And always garaged, the inside of this car has no discoloration of the =
red=20
interior, even the carpet is beautiful, just a few rips in the drivers =
seat.=20
This 442 was optioned with a 4speed, console, NO power steering or =
brakes, 3:90=20
gears and &quot;No posi&quot;. somewear along its life it recieved SS1 =
wheels=20
(no decal for wheel storage in trunk) along with a SUN tach mounted to =
the=20
colum, and a set of gauges under the dash. In the engine compartment sat =
a=20
1968-9 400 motor with a 1966 L-69 (3x2) intake and carbs. At the time I =
was=20
talking to him he said the orignal engine started to have a rod knocking =
and he=20
bought this engine out of a 1966 442 so I assumed it was the correct =
400. This=20
motor purrs like a kitten, but step on the gas pedal and it moves like a =
scalded=20
Cat ! On the pad on&nbsp; the drivers side has large #'s meaning it's a=20
replacement block. Before the Nats down in Dallas it will be getting a =
correct=20
400 motor that I've had on a motor stand for a year, Bored it .057 over. =
SO=20
thats why I need a 1967 442 Carb. I believe the # is 7027156&nbsp;&nbsp; =

Anything will be OK. I'm replacing the battery and cables with the Repro =
battery=20
and cables and ordered redlines from coker. I think the nicks and dings =
on this=20
car will give it character ! O by the way this car has NO rust, and I =
could=20
hardly beleave it but I found a few spots of nonsurfacerusted framerail =
(real=20
steel) You can also tell the hood has been repainted. The chambered =
exhaust is=20
still there, he just replaced the mufflers with glasspacks(they will be=20
replaced). Found some papers when it was Inspected in 1977 the car had =
71,000,=20
the car now has 72,600. The car wasn't cheap but you don't find these =
very often=20
!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000=20
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
THANKS FOR LISTENING&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; MIKE=20
SIEDLIK</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_00DA_01BEA1DD.A6A18480--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 08:14:28 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Shaky Front end

>I need help to figure why my front end shakes when I apply the
>brakes at hi speed.  I had the rotors cut and that seem to have
>solved the problem but now the problem has resurfaced again.

It sounds like you've warped them again. Maybe the last cutting left them 
too thin.

How are you tightening the lugs? It's important (especially with thin rotors 
or brands that are susceptible to warping) to get the lugs torqued evenly to 
the proper setting, not just slamming them on with an impact wrench (and I 
don't know how much I really trust those torque sticks on impact wrenches, 
and yes I know the GM manual says they're okay).

Anyhow, I'd try properly retorquing the lugs to the correct setting, which 
is usually at least 75 ft./lbs. You may be closing the barn door after the 
horse has warp^H^H^H^H bolted, but it might help minimize whatever heat 
distortion you've already got. My SSEi rotors improved somewhat when I did 
this, although it didn't totally eliminate the pulsations until I bit the 
bullet and replaced them altogether.

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1966
*********************************

