Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1964


oldsmobile-digest        Tuesday, May 18 1999        Volume 01 : Number 1964



Rattling noise 442
To wax or not to wax?
Re: Rattling noise 442
w-z ex.man.in72cutlass conv.
I'm back!
Rochester Quad Problem
Re: front end bushings (was front end clunk)
carb choice  (was: 455 carb choice)
PST bushings (Was:front end bushings (was front end clunk)
Oldsmobile being given a sad farewell
Re: I'm back!
Fw: 66 98 parts car
Re: To wax or not to wax?
Re: front end bushings (was front end clunk)
Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai
Re: Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai
RE: I'm back!
CAR ACRONYMS
Guage (gage) pacs
Guage pac, corrected
Re: Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai
Re: PST bushings (Was:front end bushings (was front end clunk)
OLDS FULL SIZE REAR SWAYBAR WITH BRACKETS , NUTS AND BOLTS
Re: Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai
RE: OLDS FULL SIZE REAR SWAYBAR WITH BRACKETS , NUTS AND BOLTS
Re: steering grinding noise
Trunk mat question+other babble
RE: OLDS FULL SIZE REAR SWAYBAR WITH BRACKETS , NUTS AND BOLTS
Fun stuff
Re: Rochester Quad Problem
Re: Guage (gage) pacs
Re: Fun stuff
Power Tour
Re: Power Tour
Cranks
RE: Power Tour
Re: Trunk mat question+other babble
Dynomax Headers
Codes, Prd #'s  etc..
General help
Re: Power Window Blues
Re: CAR ACRONYMS
Retain stock or add power options?
Re: Guage (gage) pacs
Re: CAR ACRONYMS
79 H/O pics
OCA Roadside Assitance Program
Re: Retain stock or add power options?
Re: Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai-OR maybe just a better SCANNER

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 08:40:47 +0200
From: "S.W. Kerkhoven" <Kerkhoven@wt.tno.nl>
Subject: Rattling noise 442

I have a 1969 0ldsmobile 442 with the following problem. When i drive the car 
there comes a rattling noise from underneath the car. When i listen under the 
car the noise is located in the area where the transmission is attached to the 
motor. The noise can be discribed as a loose bodypate. I think the noise comes 
from the flywheelcover/flexplate which is cracked or something like that.
It has a 400 engine, automatic transmission and AC.

Does anybody ever had the same problem or is it a known problem with older 
cutlass/442 cars?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 02:03:49 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: To wax or not to wax?

On vehicles that are not driven on a daily basis in rain or snow, is it
better to not wax the car or to use hand glaze? Someone told me that wax
will leave swirl marks in the paint and that with continued waxing the car
will look worse because the wax will compound itself. They said to use a
hand glaze such as 3M Imperial Hand Glaze which contains no wax or
silicone. The hand glaze also protects the clear by leaving a layer of
glaze that does not build up as wax does. 

Is this true?

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 02:06:05 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Rattling noise 442

Remove the flywheel cover and look at the flywheel and torque converter.
Check to see if they are damaged in any way. If not check tp make sure the
trans mount is not broken and on tight. Also check to exhaust system to see
if that is loose somewhere.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: S.W. Kerkhoven <Kerkhoven@wt.tno.nl>
> To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject: Rattling noise 442
> Date: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 1:40 AM
> 
> 
> I have a 1969 0ldsmobile 442 with the following problem. When i drive the
car there comes a rattling noise from underneath the car. When i listen
under the car the noise is located in the area where the transmission is
attached to the motor. The noise can be discribed as a loose bodypate. I
think the noise comes from the flywheelcover/flexplate which is cracked or
something like that.
> It has a 400 engine, automatic transmission and AC.
> 
> Does anybody ever had the same problem or is it a known problem with
older cutlass/442 cars?
> 

------------------------------

Date: 18 May 99 00:04:30 PDT
From: Randy Hermsen <76cutlass@netscape.net>
Subject: w-z ex.man.in72cutlass conv.

Good evening list members
Ive been restoring a 72 cutlass supreme conv. and I also happen to have a pair
of w-z ex. mans all sandblasted and painted special....(almost burned down the
house curing the paint in the oven)..lol
Now I know I boasted about puttin them in the 76  350 but that was before I
bought the conv.
The conv. with the 350 rocket seems the more likly girl to be dressed with
these center port devided ex man.
Ive read a post from jim earlier and ask the same ???except for 350 rocket.
I can say to jim this info from first glance the man. would fit like a glove
and hope you can find a pair  I paid 200.00 for mine.
                      T.I.A
                                Randy
                                  76cutlass supreme
                                    72cutlass supreme conv.

____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://webmail.netscape.com.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 04:55:24 -0700
From: mrada@catalina-inter.net (Chris Sparcs)
Subject: I'm back!

Hi everyone,

I'm back.  Sorry for the waste of bandwidth, however, some of you
probably wondered what happened to me.  I am back on my feet again,
shakily as it may be.

Olds content: Frosty is doing ok  I have been considering making mods to
her to bring her into the 90's.  Nothing too radical just safety and
handling changes.  Any 'puts on that ?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 08:22:48 -0400
From: "Rob Lewis" <fever@planeteer.com>
Subject: Rochester Quad Problem

68 442 400 auto orig carb.
Need help with this carb 
Idle is way to rich,mixture screws do nothing
Tore it down no visible problems,
Add more air, idle is to high (runs on)
Just wondering if you guys no any tricks.
Thank You
Rob

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 14:59 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: front end bushings (was front end clunk)

Dave Cullen wrote:

>Where would "shims" be in the control arms, and how could I tell if 
>some were missing?
>
>And how much would I expect to pay a good mechanic to replace control 
>arm bushings on both wheels? From what I've seen here on the list, 
>it's not something I would try myself on a weekend.
>
>Thanks folks.
________________________________________

The shims go between the upper control arm mounting shaft and the 
frame of the car. They are clamped in place by the pressure from the 
two bolts that hold each shaft in place. I have seen at least one car 
with no shims - I think the frame had spread from years of ageing, and 
the last person who aligned it took out all the shims in the attempt 
to keep the camber near where it should be.

Don't know the answer to your second question, so far I haven't found 
a good mechanic! I'm in the Los Angeles area and the mechanics I've 
tried have run the gamut from droids to competent guys who overcharge. 
Many of them just seem to break out the heavy hammer when you mention 
an older car needing front end work, something I think should be 
reserved for a last-ditch battle against a stuck part.

BTW, I just replaced my lower control arm bushings, and I agree 
totally with your assesment that it takes more than a weekend to do 
the complete job. My Supreme is my daily driver, and I couldn't afford 
to have it out of comission for more than a weekend, so what I did was 
break the job down into bite-size sub procedures, and done that way 
the final swap can be done in a weekend. Still a loooong, hard 
weekend, but if you're feeling in the mood for punishment it can be 
done. This is what I did:

1) Went to a junkyard, got a complete set of 2 upper and 2 lower 
control arms that fit my car. (They cost me $15 each at an Ecology 
Auto Wrecking yard, would have been cheaper elsewere. Also getting 
them off gave me some practice, on a car that I *didnt* care about!)
Mine came off a '72 Chevy Monte Carlo, and are identical to the 
factory ones on my '72 Supreme.

2) Ordered poly bushings from Performance Suspension Components in 
Arizona (602) 272-4085. They're made by Energy Suspension. 

3)I planned to replace only the lower control arm bushins at this 
time, as I want to later go to the Global West upper A-arm. I cleaned 
up the 2 junkyard lower arms (2hrs), pressed out 4 old bushings (4hrs 
hard labour), pressed in 4 new bushings(2 hrs); pressed out old lower 
balljoints (2 hrs hard labour), tried to press in new balljoints but 
they kept tipping over and binding on the way in. Finally paid local 
parts store $15 to press in new balljoints. Now I had to rebuilt lower 
arms all ready to swap into my car.

If I were to do it over, I would pay someone else to press out the old 
bushings; trying to do it with a bench-vice and a bunch of home-made 
pressing/receiving manderels made from sections of thick-wall tubing 
proved to be a real pain in the neck. The new bushings (if poly) need 
to be pressed apart, greased with silicone grease (came with my 
bushings), and re-assembled before installing them, to prevent 
squeaks, so I'd rather do this part myself to make sure it's done 
right.

4)Saturday I started to take my car apart, starting approx 7 A.M.;  by 
8 P.M. (about 11 hrs labour, 2hrs rest breaks) I had one side 
completely done. This included 3 or 4 short rest/food breaks, time 
spent hammering uselessly on cheapo pickle-fork that flowed like 
silly-putty instead of separating joint before my neighbour lent me 
his OTC ball-joint seperator tool, and wrestling with my Eastwood 
spring-compressor, trying to get it inside the tight confines of the 
front coil springs. I spent 40 minutes trying to get one of the lower 
control arm mounting bolts out - it had rusted to the inner metal 
shell of the LCA bushing!

5)Sunday I started on the other side. Took from 7 A.M. till 3 P.M., 
obviously I had learnt a few things from Saturdays experience! Approx 
7 hrs labour.

Monday morning I drove to work in my car, as usual, except my car had 
new poly lower control arm bushings, and new Hotckis front springs!

I know other listees have done this job much faster than I did, I'm 
guessing that (a) they're in better physical shape for long bouts of 
hard labour (b) they have more or better tools than I had (c) they 
have more experience and more skill, or (d) they used to work on a 
NASCAR pit crew.... 

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 16:06 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: carb choice  (was: 455 carb choice)

John H. Edmonds wrote:
<snipped>

>....I need to pick a carb to go on the motor, and I need some help in 
>picking. The 455 is going to be basically stock, with only a few 
>slight modifications. It shall be .030 over and utilize the stock 4 
>barrel intake and WZ exhaust manifolds. I was thinking about using 
>the Quad on my 330 (number 7044618), but the amount of CFM (which I 
>do not know for this carb) concerned me. I also have a rebuilt spare 
>Quadrajet (number 7032720), but this one is an unknown quantity as 
>well. Will the carb on my 330 have enough flow to keep the 455 happy, 
>or will I be choking it with insufficient air? Could either of my 
>carbs be modified to increase the flow, or should I go with
>something else? Thanks in advance...
________________________________________________________

It's easy to overestimate the CFM requirements of an engine. You can 
calculate the cfm your engine flows using the formula everyone on this 
list has probably seen many times:

engine CFM = (engine CID x max rpm x volumetric efficiency)/3456

Now for a stock 455, I'll assume you won't go above 5500rpm, and stock 
heads with stock exhaust manifolds is probably going to keep your 
volumetric efficiency no higher than 85% at 5500 rpm. So your engine
needs - only 615 cfm!

Here is where the universal misunderstanding begins. Usually people 
ignore the formula above, or use a rule-of-thumb like "use 1.5 times 
the airflow predicted by the formula".  The fact is that 4-bbl 
carburetors are rated for their cfm when there is 1.5" of vaccuum 
sucking on them. If you use a 600cfm carb on your 455, there will be 
about  1.5" of pressure drop across it when your engine is at max rpm. 
Since atmospheric pressure is about 30 inches of pressure, you just 
took away 1.5" from 30", leaving the engine about 5% down on power 
compared to a much bigger carb. If your engine makes 300 real-world 
horses with those exhaust manifolds and stock heads, using the 600 cfm 
carburetor costs you only about 15 hp, at max rpm.  Everywhere else in 
the rpm band the engine will be more responsive with this small carb, 
the car will feel better in traffic, get better gas mileage, etc. 
Unless the car is a drag-race only car, the 5% power drop at max rpm 
is really not very significant - how many minutes a day does your car 
spend at 10% throttle? How many at WOT? How many at WOT and 5500 rpm?

So I'd say pick any carb that flows at least 600 cfm (I believe all 
the true 4-bbl Quadrajets do), tune it to match your car and driving 
style, and you'll enjoy life with it. On the other hand, bolt on a 
1050 cfm Dominator, and you'll probably be miserable with the result.

Just my (very long!) two cents.

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 340 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 05:57:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: PST bushings (Was:front end bushings (was front end clunk)

I've been following this thread for a while here and I
have a question for anyone who has ordered the poly
bushings from PST. Are you suppose to get grease with
those? I ordered the super poly kit with a new 1 1/4"
sway bar. I got all the parts the other day, but there
is no grease anywhere! Maybe they forgot to send it? 

On a side note, I think I will be very pleased with
the body roll situation when I get it done. The new
sway bar is WAY bigger then the original.
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 09:52:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: brain@luis.yourwebhost.com
Subject: Oldsmobile being given a sad farewell

I start this rare note to the list on a sad tone.

I have a 1979 Cutlass Supreme Brogham, with Moonroof and the pillow seats... 

I took it into the garage the other day to get it fixed up to drive (I
tinkered with the idea of restoring it someday, but not at this time), and the
mechanic (very reputable, IMHO), called with very bad news.  The car needs
thousands of dollars of work to get it back into great condition, and $1500 at
least to get it just commute ready.

I went home and discussed with my wife, and we just don't have that kind of
money to dump into the car, no matter how nice it is/was...  Right now, my new
son is pretty much my entire hobby.   I dearly wanted to keep it, but I think
it is just too far gone  (the mechanic said he didn;t think it was worth it to
put anything into it).

So, I am asking for opinions.... I feel I have two options....:

Store the car for 10 years or so, until it becomes a classic and I have more
time to decide what to do with it....

Or....

Sell the car, either as a base for a restore now, or as parts.

Does anyone have any thoughts?

I very much enjoyed this car (it was my #2 vehicle in HS), and my wife enjoys
it and the ride as well.  But, it has a number of things not going for it:

It has been in a wreck
The engine is gone (will need to the be replaced)
Mechanic says tranny is gone, will need replaced


However, as a gem for someone else, it may be worth something:
I have purchased a new interior (vinyl and good pillow seats, blue)
It has the coveted factory moonroof (with perfect glass)
rally wheels in good condition
Dash is new (got it for free, long story)

So, what do folks think I should do?  Is anyone interested in this car for a
few hundred dollars or some parts off it that would make it worthwhile to part
it out?  Do folks think I should sit on it for a few years, and then restore
it.

I appreciate any answers you may have....  

Jim Brain



- -- 
Jim Brain, Embedded System Designer, Brain Innovations, Inc. (BII) (online sig)
bii@mail.jbrain.com "Above views DO reflect my employer, since I'm my employer"
Dabbling in WWW, Embedded Systems, Old CBM computers, and Good Times!      -Me-
BII Home: http://www.jbrain.com          CBM Info: 
http://www.jbrain.com/vicug/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 10:21:38 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: I'm back!

Chris Sparcs wrote:

> Hi everyone,
>
> I'm back.  Sorry for the waste of bandwidth, however, some of you
> probably wondered what happened to me.  I am back on my feet again,
> shakily as it may be.

Hey Chris,
It's great to have you back (the post cars DO need an advocate)!
Chris B. Witt just signed back on, so now I'm wondering who the 3rd Chris to
rejoin will be...
Now if on The Wiz would rejoin ;-)
- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
95 Aurora
OCA# 30442

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 09:22:47 -0500
From: "Carlos Rincon" <crincon@nssihouston.com>
Subject: Fw: 66 98 parts car

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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- -----Original Message-----
From: Walker <pwalker@megavision.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, May 14, 1999 5:19 PM
Subject: 66 98 parts car


I have a 66 98 parts car that is going to the crusher soon.
If any one needs parts,lat me know. Car has power windows,
power seat,good trim,grille,tail lights,fender skirts,good
sheetmetal and bumpers. It is a four door. I am located in
east central nebraska. You can contact me at
pwalker@megavision.com   address to John

- ------=_NextPart_000_0086_01BEA10F.FE859020
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
</B>Walker &lt;<A=20
href=3D"mailto:pwalker@megavision.com">pwalker@megavision.com</A>&gt;<BR>=
<B>To:=20
</B><A =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>=20
&lt;<A=20
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>&g=
t;<BR><B>Date:=20
</B>Friday, May 14, 1999 5:19 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>66 98 parts=20
car<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have a 66 98 parts car that is =
going to the=20
crusher soon.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>If any one needs parts,lat me know. =
Car has=20
power windows,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>power seat,good trim,grille,tail =
lights,fender=20
skirts,good</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>sheetmetal and bumpers. It is a four =
door. I am=20
located in</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>east central nebraska. You can =
contact me=20
at</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:pwalker@megavision.com">pwalker@megavision.com</A>&nbsp;&n=
bsp;=20
address to John</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 09:45:53 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: To wax or not to wax?

OK for SHOW CARS ONLY  the following system works great for a deep lusterous
shine
start with maguires(this is new paint if yours is older start on step 2)#2
cleaner, then use #4
polish, followed by #7 show car glaze this stuff is great it rejuvinates
your paint by adding oils that
have evaporated off over the years and makes a really shiney finish but it
will not weather well
the paint needs a wax to protect it from the sun and rain if the car is SHOW
ONLY use glaze since it lives in the garage under the cover etc. if it lives
outside with or without a cover use a good carnuba paste wax or apply #7
every other day...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 2:03 AM
Subject: To wax or not to wax?


> On vehicles that are not driven on a daily basis in rain or snow, is it
> better to not wax the car or to use hand glaze? Someone told me that wax
> will leave swirl marks in the paint and that with continued waxing the car
> will look worse because the wax will compound itself. They said to use a
> hand glaze such as 3M Imperial Hand Glaze which contains no wax or
> silicone. The hand glaze also protects the clear by leaving a layer of
> glaze that does not build up as wax does.
>
> Is this true?
>
> Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 10:47:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Re: front end bushings (was front end clunk)

A tip... freeze the control arm bushings before you try to install them.
They shrink just enough to make the job easier.. not easy but easier

Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio 
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets  
  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 11:06:35 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai

Sorry for the somewhat non-Olds question, but can anyone recommend a
good digital camera that is on the lower end of the price scale?  I had
a scanner for a couple of weeks before it broke so I've decided to try
the camera route this time.  More expensive, but the pictures should be
much better when put on the net directly.  Soooo, suggestions (sent
privately of course) would be much appreciated.  I see several on sale
from time to time at some of the local stores, but I don't know exactly
what features to go for.  Assistance would be appreciated. 
Thanks.......

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 09:29:48 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai

Don Sowers wrote:
> 
> Sorry for the somewhat non-Olds question, but can anyone recommend a
> good digital camera that is on the lower end of the price scale?  I had
> a scanner for a couple of weeks before it broke so I've decided to try
> the camera route this time.  More expensive, but the pictures should be
> much better when put on the net directly.  

I don't mean to knock digital cameras, but, there is no reason that the
pictures should be better for computer use than good scans.  Regular film runs
millions of pixels per inch so proper scanning (at very high resolutions) and
then paring down the image by cropping, reducing resolution, and compressing
can produce superior images.

Digital cameras have lots of advantages like ease of use and very low turn
around times, I just don't think they will be the end all and be all until they
get to 10K x 10K or better.

Just my humble opinion,
- -- 

Cliff "Just don't take my Kodachrome away." Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 08:35:42 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: I'm back!

Suggest disc brakes, those cool late model plastic (i.e. visible) reservois
master cylinder, poly bushings, HEI, & and internally regulated alternator.
All these fixes have been good to my 66 big cars.

cf

- -----Original Message-----
From: mrada@catalina-inter.net [mailto:mrada@catalina-inter.net]
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 4:55 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: I'm back!


Hi everyone,

I'm back.  Sorry for the waste of bandwidth, however, some of you
probably wondered what happened to me.  I am back on my feet again,
shakily as it may be.

Olds content: Frosty is doing ok  I have been considering making mods to
her to bring her into the 90's.  Nothing too radical just safety and
handling changes.  Any 'puts on that ?

Chris Sparks

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 11:00:44 -0500
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas.Martin@motorola.com>
Subject: CAR ACRONYMS

 AUDI
 Accelerates Under Demonic Influence
 Always Unsafe Designs Implemented
 All Un-informed Drivers Insulted
 All Unnecessary Devices Installed
 
 BMW
 Big Money Works
 Bought My Wife
 Brutal Money Waster
 
 BUICK
 Big Ugly Indestructable Car Killer
 
 CHEVROLET
 Can Hear Every Valve Rap On Long Extended Trips
 Cheap, Hardly Efficient, Virtually Runs On Luck Every Time
 
 DODGE
 Damn Old Dirty Gas Eater
 Drips Oil, Drops Grease Everywhere
 
 FORD
 Fix Or Repair Daily
 Found On Road, Dead
 Fast Only Rolling Downhill
 
 GM
 General Maintenance
 
 GMC
 Garage Man's Companion
 
 HONDA
 Had One Never Did Again
 Happy Owners Never Drive Anything else.
 
 HYUNDAI
 Hope You Understand Nothing's Driveable And Inexpensive?
 
 MAZDA
 Most Always Zipping Dangerously Along
 
 OLDSMOBILE
 Old Ladies Driving Slowly Make Others Behind Infuriatingly Late Every day.
 Overpriced, Leisurely Driven Sedan Made Of Buick's Irregular Leftover
Equipment
 
 SAAB
 Send Another Automobile Back
 
 TOYOTA
 Too Often Yankees Overprice This Auto
 
 VOLVO
 Very Odd Looking Vehicular Object
 
 VW
 Virtually Worthless
 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 12:11:36 -0500
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Guage (gage) pacs

Over the weekend I picked up a full size guage pac. Anyone interested in
it? Fits '77 - '85, 88 and 98, excluding the '85 98.

I also found a '80 guage pac. Looked different than the '81 and up guage
pacs. Anyone want that one?

There were also some '79 Toros with guages. I think those fit the '79-83
Toros.

Some trivia here, the chassis manuals refer to them as gages, not
guages. I wonder if there was some debate about that spelling.

- --
David Brown         Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
              Sneak a peek at 5.X FAQ at:
      www.ameritech.net/users/dlbrown/oldsfaq.htm
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
    ftp://ftp.neurobio.arizona.edu/ftp/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 12:14:28 -0500
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Guage pac, corrected

Oops, that should be "1980 Cutlass guage pac."

==========
Over the weekend I picked up a full size guage pac. Anyone interested in
it? Fits '77 - '85, 88 and 98, excluding the '85 98.

I also found a '80 guage pac. Looked different than the '81 and up guage
pacs. Anyone want that one?

There were also some '79 Toros with guages. I think those fit the '79-83
Toros.

Some trivia here, the chassis manuals refer to them as gages, not
guages. I wonder if there was some debate about that spelling.

- --
David Brown         Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
              Sneak a peek at 5.X FAQ at:
      www.ameritech.net/users/dlbrown/oldsfaq.htm
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
    ftp://ftp.neurobio.arizona.edu/ftp/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 11:23:26 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai

would have to agree with cliff on this scans of actual photos are far
superior to digital pictures
the scans to him that I had to make from a book were not good but the book
was more difficult
than pictures....KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 4:29 AM
Subject: Re: Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai


>
> Don Sowers wrote:
> >
> > Sorry for the somewhat non-Olds question, but can anyone recommend a
> > good digital camera that is on the lower end of the price scale?  I had
> > a scanner for a couple of weeks before it broke so I've decided to try
> > the camera route this time.  More expensive, but the pictures should be
> > much better when put on the net directly.
>
> I don't mean to knock digital cameras, but, there is no reason that the
> pictures should be better for computer use than good scans.  Regular film
runs
> millions of pixels per inch so proper scanning (at very high resolutions)
and
> then paring down the image by cropping, reducing resolution, and
compressing
> can produce superior images.
>
> Digital cameras have lots of advantages like ease of use and very low turn
> around times, I just don't think they will be the end all and be all until
they
> get to 10K x 10K or better.
>
> Just my humble opinion,
> --
>
> Cliff "Just don't take my Kodachrome away." Simpson
> mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
> '69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
> http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 12:37:40 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: PST bushings (Was:front end bushings (was front end clunk)

Yes there should be grease with the kit.  It will be in a clear plastic bag.
The grease is a clear-white color.  It is also rather sticky.  Just give PST
a call and they will send it out to ya.  I rebuilt the four link in a
friends Chevelle with PST and the monster sway bar.  He says the ride and
handeling is much improved.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 8:57 AM
Subject: PST bushings (Was:front end bushings (was front end clunk)


> I've been following this thread for a while here and I
> have a question for anyone who has ordered the poly
> bushings from PST. Are you suppose to get grease with
> those? I ordered the super poly kit with a new 1 1/4"
> sway bar. I got all the parts the other day, but there
> is no grease anywhere! Maybe they forgot to send it?
>
> On a side note, I think I will be very pleased with
> the body roll situation when I get it done. The new
> sway bar is WAY bigger then the original.
> ===
> Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> rockman20@yahoo.com
> 1986 Honda Accord DX
> 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
> 1981 John Deer Snowmobile
> 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
> 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
> _____________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 09:46:01 -0700 (PDT)
From: EDMUND WILLIAMS <efw67@yahoo.com>
Subject: OLDS FULL SIZE REAR SWAYBAR WITH BRACKETS , NUTS AND BOLTS

I'm looking for a rear swaybar with brackets nuts and bolts to bolt on
my rear, for a fullsize Olds. preferably the type that you can find on
an early chevy, buick or olds. Thanks, Ed 

_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 12:48:21 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai

I agree with Cliff.  The scanner provides a much better image than the
digital camera.  I have used both,  and 100$ scanner is the best for the
buck.  OK... anyway look on Ebay or other aution area for good prices.  I
have used the Kodak(cheap model),  but dont remember the model number.  I do
remember it was the cheap one.  It produces a good image.  Shop around for
one that has a good software bundel with it.  A good one should give you at
least Adobe Photoshop 2.0 or higher.  Hope it helps.  Sorry I couldnt be
more specific about the camera.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 11:06 AM
Subject: Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai


> Sorry for the somewhat non-Olds question, but can anyone recommend a
> good digital camera that is on the lower end of the price scale?  I had
> a scanner for a couple of weeks before it broke so I've decided to try
> the camera route this time.  More expensive, but the pictures should be
> much better when put on the net directly.  Soooo, suggestions (sent
> privately of course) would be much appreciated.  I see several on sale
> from time to time at some of the local stores, but I don't know exactly
> what features to go for.  Assistance would be appreciated.
> Thanks.......
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 10:08:53 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: OLDS FULL SIZE REAR SWAYBAR WITH BRACKETS , NUTS AND BOLTS

What year?
cf

- -----Original Message-----
From: EDMUND WILLIAMS [mailto:efw67@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 9:46 AM
To: OLDS GENERAL MOTORS
Subject: OLDS FULL SIZE REAR SWAYBAR WITH BRACKETS , NUTS AND BOLTS


I'm looking for a rear swaybar with brackets nuts and bolts to bolt on
my rear, for a fullsize Olds. preferably the type that you can find on
an early chevy, buick or olds. Thanks, Ed 

_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 13:11:31 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: steering grinding noise

In a message dated 5/17/99 3:01:27 PM EST, JonKrisInc writes:

<< Steering wheel has a grinding noise when it turns. Steering gear is less 
than a year old, no leaks, fluid full. There is a rubber boot on the steering 
column next to the firewall. Does this need to be lubed? Sounds like it may 
be coming from inside the column. Anybody ever have these symptoms before? 
 Bruce
 75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course) >>

Anybody out there?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 10:25:56 -0700
From: "Mountney, Scott" <scott.mountney@attws.com>
Subject: Trunk mat question+other babble

Ladies and Gentlemen, (since we are close to Indy)

Well, stocked up on a boatload of things at the Year One sale.       Picked
up the trunk mat which Y1 says is for 68-72.    My question is where and
what shape do I punch the hole for the spare tire retainer "J" hook?
Did GM use a punch, or a slit?    Just looking for the authentic look.     I
imagine I could use a gasket punch or a hot wire to cut a round
hole.........
It may be possible that the hole comes in it, but the guy at Y1 didn't think
so.    I must ask before I do something stupid with a knife or a hot wire.
:)

More questions + info/FYI:    Y1 has, back in stock,  the 71-72 cutout
bumpers that were reproduction.    They claim they are better than the NOS
ones because they use a company that has brand new dies and the NOS ones
(which an Olds dealer I know of has a few for $600---as if) were made 10
years after the cars were originally made from older dies and dont look as
good.  Has anyone used a Y1 repro bumper????   The guy on the phone says
these have the best chrome plating.....(compared to previous repros they
have offered)

The price was sure right, only like $287 with the Queen1 20% discount sale.


Another FYI......   Those door handles from the company HELP (found at Pep
Boys, Schucks, Kragens, Als, etc etc, depending on where you are at)  dont
work well on earlier GMs.    They look identical, but inside the splined
hole that goes on the splined stub on the door, the pin clip hole is
slightly off from original GM........combine this with a strong door panel
spring and the HELP handles end up stripping from lack of a good connection.
My two cents.........spend the extra 10 bucks and get GM.

Scott
72 Supreme




Scott Mountney
Senior RF Engineer
AT&T Wireless Services
International Development and Operations
7277 164TH AVE NE
Redmond WA   98052
Desk (425) 580-6364
Cell   (206) 409-3234
Fax  (425) 580-6363

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 10:38:56 -0700 (PDT)
From: EDMUND WILLIAMS <efw67@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: OLDS FULL SIZE REAR SWAYBAR WITH BRACKETS , NUTS AND BOLTS

- --- Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com> wrote:
> What year?
> cf
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: EDMUND WILLIAMS [mailto:efw67@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 9:46 AM
> To: OLDS GENERAL MOTORS
> Subject: OLDS FULL SIZE REAR SWAYBAR WITH BRACKETS ,
> NUTS AND BOLTS
> 
> 
> I'm looking for a rear swaybar with brackets nuts
> and bolts to bolt on
> my rear, for a fullsize Olds. preferably the type
> that you can find on
> an early chevy, buick or olds. Thanks, Ed 
> 
> 1969-77
BUICK,OLDS,CHEVY etc
_____________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Free instant messaging and more at
> http://messenger.yahoo.com
> 

_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 10:49:21 -0700
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Fun stuff

With the recent talk of "racing" I found this web site to
challenge each and every one of us.

http://www.silkenspider.com/mana/scalereactiontime.html

It will tell you, roughly, your reaction time.  Give it
a try.

My best was .356.  I guess I can go drag racing now in my
442 now (Olds content)!

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 14:18:04 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Rochester Quad Problem

- --------------9DC607A1792BB5D8F5EF9FC5
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Rob,

Look down your primary venturis when engine is idling.  Is there gas
dribbling out of the nozzle in the center?  If so, carb is supplying
fuel through the primary metering circuit instead of idle circuit.
Float level may be too high and/or idle mixture screws not open enough.
Believe it or not, opening up the mixture screws can help this.  Not
sure what factory recommendation is for your '68, but on a '70 the
starting place for idle tuning is 6 turns.

Also, if your carb has an idle air bypass make sure the holes aren't
clogged in the throttle base plate.  If you look at the bottom of the
throttle plate the idle air bypass holes are in the little grooves that
open into the primary throttle bores.  If this carb has been rebuilt and
it does have an idle air bypass circuit, make sure the gasket between
the air horn (topmost casting) and the float bowl assembly (middle
casting) has a hole in it to allow for bypass.

Dude


Rob Lewis wrote:

> 68 442 400 auto orig carb.
> Need help with this carb
> Idle is way to rich,mixture screws do nothing
> Tore it down no visible problems,
> Add more air, idle is to high (runs on)
> Just wondering if you guys no any tricks.
> Thank You
> Rob

- --------------9DC607A1792BB5D8F5EF9FC5
Content-Type: text/html; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
<html>
Rob,
<p>Look down your primary venturis when engine is idling.&nbsp; Is there
gas dribbling out of the nozzle in the center?&nbsp; If so, carb is supplying
fuel through the primary metering circuit instead of idle circuit.&nbsp;
Float level may be too high and/or idle mixture screws not open enough.&nbsp;
Believe it or not, opening up the mixture screws can help this.&nbsp; Not
sure what factory recommendation is for your '68, but on a '70 the starting
place for idle tuning is <u>6</u> turns.
<p>Also, if your carb has an idle air bypass make sure the holes aren't
clogged in the throttle base plate.&nbsp; If you look at the bottom of
the throttle plate the idle air bypass holes are in the little grooves
that open into the primary throttle bores.&nbsp; If this carb has been
rebuilt and it does have an idle air bypass circuit, make sure the gasket
between the air horn (topmost casting) and the float bowl assembly (middle
casting) has a hole in it to allow for bypass.
<p>Dude
<br>&nbsp;
<p>Rob Lewis wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE>68 442 400 auto orig carb.
<br>Need help with this carb
<br>Idle is way to rich,mixture screws do nothing
<br>Tore it down no visible problems,
<br>Add more air, idle is to high (runs on)
<br>Just wondering if you guys no any tricks.
<br>Thank You
<br>Rob</blockquote>
</html>

- --------------9DC607A1792BB5D8F5EF9FC5--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 11:11:56 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Guage (gage) pacs

>Some trivia here, the chassis manuals refer to them as gages,
>not guages. I wonder if there was some debate about that spelling.

Seeing as the correct spelling is "gauges," perhaps they were on to 
something.

*chuckle*  *snort*  :-)

I often wondered whether GM dashboards were available in any language other 
than English. I can just see foreigners getting offended over GM 
"simplifying" their language as well...

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 14:17:16 EDT
From: Biscayne2d@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fun stuff

that was cool! My average was a .22 and by pure luck I was able to pull off a 
.00!

Paul in WI

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 13:26:43 -0500
From: C K <bloom9@juno.com>
Subject: Power Tour

Hey all, this morning my wife and I parked on the side of Highway 169 and
watched the Power Tour pass by on their way to St. Louis. 

It was really cool! We only saw three Olds, two '71 442's and one 72
Cutlass, but they were very nice cars.

This definitely wetted our appitite for Dallas next month.

Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass(daily driver)

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 14:10:05 CDT
From: "Steve Traynor" <dartster@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Power Tour

Hello all! I'm new to the list and have a '70 Cutlass S Hardtop. Everything 
was original when I bought it several years ago. I've since replaced the 
radiator, fuel pump, carb and miscellaneous stuff here and there. Heck, it 
even still has the original hubcaps! <grins>
Anyway, I was wondeing what's going on in Dallas next month, as I live here. 
Haven't heard much on the Power Tours, so any info would be great.

Steve, aka the Dartster
'70 Cutlass S Hardtop

p.s. Anyone in this area that actually knows how to work on these things and 
is willin to help? I'm a computer guy, not a wrencher <chuckles> altho I do 
try to do stuff.

- ----Original Message Follows----
From: C K <bloom9@juno.com>
Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Power Tour
Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 13:26:43 -0500
>From oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca Tue May 18 11:26:58 1999
Received: from [192.75.95.75] by hotmail.com (1.5) with SMTP id 
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15:26:18 -0300
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chebucto.ns.ca oldsmobile-mml"
Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
Precedence: bulk

Hey all, this morning my wife and I parked on the side of Highway 169 and
watched the Power Tour pass by on their way to St. Louis.

It was really cool! We only saw three Olds, two '71 442's and one 72
Cutlass, but they were very nice cars.

This definitely wetted our appitite for Dallas next month.

Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass(daily driver)

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]


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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 15:12:42 -0400
From: Howie <qcquad@cuny.campuscwix.net>
Subject: Cranks

What is the difference between the crank shaft in an auto transmission
car and a manual transmission car?
Howie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 14:31:35 -0500
From: Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com
Subject: RE: Power Tour

Where in the Dallas area are you?

I'm in Carrollton with a '68 Cutlass "S" Conv.

Nationals are in Irving this year.........go out to the Olds web site
and check out the details!!

Mickey
'68 Cutlass "S" Conv

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Steve Traynor [SMTP:dartster@hotmail.com]
> Sent:	Tuesday, May 18, 1999 2:10 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	Re: Power Tour
> 
> Hello all! I'm new to the list and have a '70 Cutlass S Hardtop.
> Everything 
> was original when I bought it several years ago. I've since replaced
> the 
> radiator, fuel pump, carb and miscellaneous stuff here and there.
> Heck, it 
> even still has the original hubcaps! <grins>
> Anyway, I was wondeing what's going on in Dallas next month, as I live
> here. 
> Haven't heard much on the Power Tours, so any info would be great.
> 
> Steve, aka the Dartster
> '70 Cutlass S Hardtop
> 
> p.s. Anyone in this area that actually knows how to work on these
> things and 
> is willin to help? I'm a computer guy, not a wrencher <chuckles> altho
> I do 
> try to do stuff.
> 
> ----Original Message Follows----
> From: C K <bloom9@juno.com>
> Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Power Tour
> Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 13:26:43 -0500
> From oldsmobile-mml-owner@chebucto.ns.ca Tue May 18 11:26:58 1999
> Received: from [192.75.95.75] by hotmail.com (1.5) with SMTP id 
> MHotMailB90AFBEF009DD1B9831EC04B5F4BF9BB0; Tue May 18 11:26:58 1999
> Received: by halifax.chebucto.ns.ca id <33419-10181>; Tue, 18 May 1999
> 
> 15:26:18 -0300
> Received: from m4.boston.juno.com ([205.231.101.198]:60435 "EHLO 
> m4.boston.juno.com" ident: "NO-IDENT-SERVICE[2]") by
> halifax.chebucto.ns.ca 
> with ESMTP id <33374-10181>; Tue, 18 May 1999 15:26:05 -0300
> Received: (from bloom9@juno.com) by m4.boston.juno.com (queuemail) id 
> EAWYPHTT; Tue, 18 May 1999 14:25:44 EDT
> Message-ID: <19990518.132644.16982.0.bloom9@juno.com>
> X-Mailer: Juno 1.49
> X-Juno-Line-Breaks: 1-2,4-11
> X-Orcpt: rfc822;"|/csuite/etc/majordomo/wrapper resend -l oldsmobile
> -h 
> chebucto.ns.ca oldsmobile-mml"
> Sender: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> Precedence: bulk
> 
> Hey all, this morning my wife and I parked on the side of Highway 169
> and
> watched the Power Tour pass by on their way to St. Louis.
> 
> It was really cool! We only saw three Olds, two '71 442's and one 72
> Cutlass, but they were very nice cars.
> 
> This definitely wetted our appitite for Dallas next month.
> 
> Fred Kemp
> bloom9@juno.com
> Tulsa, OK area
> '67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass(daily driver)
> 
> ___________________________________________________________________
> You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
> Get completely free e-mail from Juno at
> http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
> or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 16:37:05 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Trunk mat question+other babble

If it is like the repro trunk mat I bought from Fusicks it doesn't extend
over that far. It is cut out in the area where the J-hook attaches so that
the area under the spare is mostly just trunk floor metal, not mat. 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 12:48:39 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Dynomax Headers

Has anyone used the Dynomax Jet-Hot coated headers? I
see that Jeg's has em for 259 bucks and that includes
gaskets, reducers, and all the nuts and bolts needed.
I know that a lot of people have told me to go with
Hooker, but they are pretty spendy with their thermal
barrier coating and they don't come with any of the
reducers or anything. Anybody have any beef with the
Dynomax? They say they are guarenteed for life.

As always,
TIA,
Del

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 15:51:13 -0400
From: "Robert McCarthy" <robm4@gis.net>
Subject: Codes, Prd #'s  etc..

Where do i get info on older Cutlass' and 442's.  I'm looking for production
data and option code info.  Mainly for 1965 as I have a '65 442, first year
400 cid, 2 spd Auto.  I also would like to decipher the build/body tag on
the firewall anyone have any of this info?  The VIN on cars this old tells
you almost nothing.
Thanks, Rob McCarthy
There is no substitute for genuine lack of preparation.
http://www.gis.net/~robm4
mailto:robm4@gis.net
ICQ: 12438878
AIM: Mini 4x

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 16:20:19 -0400
From: "SHANE L RICKETTS" <SHANERICKETTS@prodigy.net>
Subject: General help

I have  an 86 olds cutlass salon . It has 180,000 on the stock 307.  I have
a 1972 gold 350 rocket and a 1968-69 red 455.  I am wondering how much H>P
these two engines had from the factory.  I plan on installing one of them
soon.  thanks.
shanericketts@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 15:31:47 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: Power Window Blues

>Then come on over and we'll have a beer lookin' at it. Maybe a couple.

Well hell.  Where are you?  I just reloacted to Houston for the summer...
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88  RB                   (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 16:49:26 EDT
From: CUTLASS442@aol.com
Subject: Re: CAR ACRONYMS

dont forget to add to the list:



DODGE.......Dead or Dying Garage Equipment

Richard
1967 "Oldsmobuick" Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 16:49:47 -0400
From: "kcseak" <kcseak@neo.rr.com>
Subject: Retain stock or add power options?

Hi list.
 I have a 1964 Dynamic 88 that is all original. No power anything! It's a
sweet car, only 70k on her. http://home.neo.lrun.com/cseak/car/ pics only.
 My Question is....
 Is my car more valuable 'as is' stock, or if I took ps. pb. air. power
antenna and wonder bar from a 1964 starfire would I be raising or lowering
the value of "The Floater"
Did 1964 Dynamic 88's have any power options?
Should I have the starfire engine rebuilt and put it in my car with dual
exhaust?
             Keith

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 15:34:31 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: Guage (gage) pacs

At 12:11 PM 5/18/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Over the weekend I picked up a full size guage pac. Anyone interested in
>it? Fits '77 - '85, 88 and 98, excluding the '85 98.

Oh God, No.

>Some trivia here, the chassis manuals refer to them as gages, not
>guages. I wonder if there was some debate about that spelling.

I gave up on the spelling - now I just try to be consistent with whatever
spelling I'm using throughout a thread.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88  RB                   (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 14:03:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: CAR ACRONYMS

Or PINTO.......Put In Nickle To Operate

- --- CUTLASS442@aol.com wrote:
> dont forget to add to the list:
> 
> 
> 
> DODGE.......Dead or Dying Garage Equipment
> 
> Richard
> 1967 "Oldsmobuick" Cutlass
> 

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 16:01:54 -0500 (EST)
From: hurst455@webtv.net (Corey Putnam)
Subject: 79 H/O pics

   Does anyone know where I can get photos of a white 79 and a black 79
H/O? Can anyone email them if they have any? I`m sure I`ll get some at
the H/OCA meet in July, but I need them sooner for my website. Thanks.

Corey Putnam
75 H/O W-30(my way)
87 Regal w/Olds 455(Mama`s ride)
H/OCA #0915A
OCC #0208
OCA #031264
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 17:12:01 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: OCA Roadside Assitance Program

MEMBERS NEEDED!!!
RESPOND DIRECTLY TO mailto:old442@erols.com

It's been almost 2 months since my article in JWO calling for volunteers
for the Roadside Assistance Program, and I only have 22 names on the
list.  This is extremely poor considering the thousands of OCA member.
I've also noticed that not a single person on the Olds list or Toro list
have signed up.

If any of you are active in your local chapters, please let me know
directly.

So far Ohio is leading with 3 members, and CA, GA, NV, UT and TX are
tied with 2 members each.

- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
95 Aurora
OCA# 30442

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 14:26:20 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Retain stock or add power options?

>Is my car more valuable 'as is' stock, or if I took ps. pb. air.
>power antenna and wonder bar from a 1964 starfire would I be raising
>or lowering the value of "The Floater"

I don't think you'd affect the value a whole lot beyond what you'd get 
already for a mint original. Maybe the A/C would add something to it, but 
it's not a straight mathematical add-this-much/delete-this-much like you 
have with recent used cars listed in the Blue Book.

I'd vote for adding whatever bolt-on stuff you can that won't disturb the 
basic mechanical integrity (i.e. doesn't require drilling extra holes, etc. 
that you can't roll back later).

(BTW, looks like a _really_ nice car.)

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 17:28:17 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai-OR maybe just a better 
SCANNER

steve harris wrote:
> 
> I agree with Cliff.  The scanner provides a much better image than the
> digital camera.  I have used both,  and 100$ scanner is the best for the
> buck.  OK... anyway look on Ebay or other aution area for good prices.  I
> have used the Kodak(cheap model),  but dont remember the model number.  I do
> remember it was the cheap one.  It produces a good image.  Shop around for
> one that has a good software bundel with it.  A good one should give you at
> least Adobe Photoshop 2.0 or higher.  Hope it helps.  Sorry I couldnt be
> more specific about the camera.
> meso@pamlico.net
> Steve

Well, so far the only one I've been half way impressed with is the Kodak
210plus at %450 from Sam's.  As for the scanners, what would you
sugggest for a GOOD scanner in the low price ($150 area of less)?  I'm
open for suggestions both ways.  I bought a scanner from Wal-Mart for
around $95 that lasted less than two weeks.  Took it back and got a
refund and swore off scanners.  But I'm sure you people are more up on
this stuff than I am.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1964
*********************************

