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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1945


oldsmobile-digest        Thursday, May 6 1999        Volume 01 : Number 1945



Re: Fender/Doors
Re: Mechanical vs. hydraulic cam
Re: How much for a tach?
I need front fenders
Re: olds website -needs new name
Re: UNBOUNCE: 2 Questions
RE: 1965 hood pads
Hurst Paraphenalia
Re: UNBOUNCE: 2 Questions
engine compartment: a/c to non a/c
Re: engine compartment: a/c to non a/c
Re: cranking pressure and CR, revisited (geeky, be warned!)
Re: Hurst Paraphenalia
LR ChangeOver
Re: Parking lights, long
Re: cranking pressure and CR, revisited (geeky, be warned!)
why no ac on conv. was: Re: engine compartment: a/c to non a/c
Re: TBI question
Re: TBI question
Re: How much for a tach?
Re: 1965 hood pads
Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...
Re: How much for a tach?
Re: How much for a tach?
Long or short tail THM400
[none]
Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...
Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...
Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...
Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...
Re: Mechanical vs. hydraulic cam
Re: 70 DELTA88 QUESTIONS
RE: How much for a tach?
RE: engine compartment: a/c to non a/c
RE: why no ac on conv. was: Re: engine compartment: a/c to non a/ c
RE: Hurst Paraphenalia
Re: 69 H/O in July'99 MCR...it's SLOW!
Re: 69 H/O in July'99 MCR...it's SLOW!
Question's: putting 455 in 87 442
Re: Question's: putting 455 in 87 442
Re: Alloy rims - cleaning
Re: Question's: putting 455 in 87 442
Re: How much for a tach?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 09:26:48 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Fender/Doors

Jim,

As you know, both the doors and the fenders have adjustment provisions, however
since the doors must align with the non-adjustable rocker and rear quarter, you
need to do those first (plus it's virtually impossible to access the door hinge
bolts with the fenders on).  Adjust the hinges to maintain the proper gap at 
the
back and bottom of the door, and also ensure that the weatherstrip is
sufficiently compressed.  Fore/aft adjustment comes from the body side of the
hinges, in/out from the door side of the hinges, and up/down from both.  If 
this
is a Sport Coupe (sorry, I don't remember) then you obviously need to check the
clearance at the top of the door frames.  A good test is to cut 1" wide strips
of newspaper and close the door with the strips between the weatherstrip and 
the
body.  If you can pull the paper out, the fit is too loose.  If the car is a
Holiday Coupe, then you will need to pull the inner door panel and adjust the
window in/out to seal properly at the roof rail.

The fenders are next.  Shim between the fender tab and the firewall for
fore/aft, under the tab on the door post for in/out at the top, and under the
tab on the cowl for up/down.  You can also slide the fender bottom in/out a
little to adjust the fit at the bottom of the door and shim under the fender
bottom to help with up/down.  Note that adding shims at the bottom will also
help to "straighten" the curve of the fender to match the door (or vice-versa).
Protect all fender edges with masking tape (use the low-tack tape sold
specifically for painting to avoid the possibility of lifting the paint).

Note that the in/out adjustment will also effect the hood-to-fender gap.  You
can also shim at the front of the fender where it bolts to the top of the core
support to even out this hood gap.

This is an iterative process, so just take your time.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 09:30:32 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Mechanical vs. hydraulic cam

If you have 2 cams identical to each other (spec wise). How much more power
would a mechanical (non-roller) cam make over the hydraulic?

Pettrix@prodigy.net
__________

None.

The whole reason for using solid lifters is to prevent lifter pump-up at higher
RPM.  This will permit the engine to rev higher, and thus will allow it to make
more power at very high RPM, but for an Olds motor limited to 6000 RPM, there
won't be a difference.  Note that this does not take into account the effects 
of
variable duration lifters like Rhodes.  These high-leakage units will
effectively change the cam profile by allowing it to act as a less radical cam
at lower RPM, which would actually fatten the torque curve at the low end (at
the expense of annoying lifter clatter).

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 09:31:41 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: How much for a tach?

hmmmm given the choices that seems to be your only option the digital items
are all simply multimeters oh well there you go...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 1999 12:08 AM
Subject: Re: How much for a tach?


> Kerry wrote:
>
> At 10:19 PM 5/5/99 -0500, you wrote:
> >I have a sunpro that I have been using for years it is the digital model
> >that normally sells for about 69-70 dollars if the one you are looking at
is
> >the engine analyzer analog version forget it spend a little more and get
a
> >better tool mine does volts dwell rpm and ohms and the only thing
replaced
> >is batteries and leads have had it for about 10 years ...KK
>
> OK...a picture of the the one that I was looking at (Dwell/Tach/Volts
> Analyzer - CP7605, web price $49.99) can be found at the following link:
>
> http://www.actron.com/cgi-bin/web_store.cgi?page=cp7605.htm
>
> I'm pretty sure that this is the one that you are telling me not to get.
>
> Now, there are two digital multimeters (that do tach) on the SunPro site -
>
> (Digital Engine Analyzer - CP7678, web price $109.99)
> http://www.actron.com/cgi-bin/web_store.cgi?page=cp7678.htm
>
> and
>
> (Diagnostic Multimeter - CP7680, web price $139.99)
> http://www.actron.com/cgi-bin/web_store.cgi?page=cp7680.htm
>
> Now, the cheaper one of these is $110, the more expensive one is $140,
both
> are between $70 and $100 MORE EXPENSIVE than the analog model.  Even
> factoring in that these "web prices" are possibly $10 - $20 more than
> retail, this is still a big chunk of change.
>
> I'm glad I asked this question, because if I hadn't I probably already
> would have bought the analog model.  Am I missing an available model
> somewhere (between the analog and the cheaper digital one)?
>
> Are these more expensive digital testers worth it?
>
> If I WAS going to drop the money for one of these two digital ones, I
> probably would have to buy the more expensive one - because there's only
> $30 difference between the two digitals.  Once you jump up the initial $70
> (analog to digital) the extra $30 seems like a drop in the bucket, and to
> buy the cheaper seems (to me) to be a waste of resources.  IS THIS A
STUPID
> WAY TO LOOK AT THIS?
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
- --
> Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
> MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
> 2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
> Austin, TX 78722          Home: (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
>                                               (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
> 1984 Oldsmobile          Pager: (512) 483-8056
> Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
> 4-door
> "The Party Barge"
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
- --
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 11:14:03 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: I need front fenders

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BE97B1.8C86C280
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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I need a set of front fenders for a 71 olds 442.  Any fender from 70 to =
72 should work for me.  Please send info and a price.  The fenders I =
have now are either rusted or bent.  I would like a set that have not =
been bondo'd If this is possible.  NOS or used is OK with me.  Thank you =
for your time.---------------steve
P.S.  I also have a complete donor car(72).  It is not a 442,  but it =
has many usable parts.  I am willing to trade if I have any thing of =
interest to anyone.  Please respond soon if a trade is possible.  The =
donor car will be completely stripped soon.  I will still have many =
extra pieces,  but the shell of the donor car will go to the junk yard.  =
I hate to do it,  but I do not have the room to store it.  The frame =
under it is in very good condition.  I would hate to see it get crushed. =
  Thanks again.-----------steve

- ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BE97B1.8C86C280
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3401" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I need a set of front fenders for a 71 olds =
442.&nbsp; Any=20
fender from 70 to 72 should work for me.&nbsp; Please send info and a=20
price.&nbsp; The fenders I have now are either rusted or bent.&nbsp; I =
would=20
like a set that have not been bondo'd If this is possible.&nbsp; NOS or =
used is=20
OK with me.&nbsp; Thank you for your =
time.---------------steve</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>P.S.&nbsp; I also have a complete donor =
car(72).&nbsp; It is=20
not a 442,&nbsp; but it has many usable parts.&nbsp; I am willing to =
trade if I=20
have any thing of interest to anyone.&nbsp; Please respond soon if a =
trade is=20
possible.&nbsp; The donor car will be completely stripped soon.&nbsp; I =
will=20
still have many extra pieces,&nbsp; but the shell of the donor car will =
go to=20
the junk yard.&nbsp; I hate to do it,&nbsp; but I do not have the room =
to store=20
it.&nbsp; The frame under it is in very good condition.&nbsp; I would =
hate to=20
see it get crushed.&nbsp;&nbsp; Thanks=20
again.-----------steve</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BE97B1.8C86C280--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 11:44:45 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: olds website -needs new name

<<I've decided that I no longer like "The Oldsmobile Experience" name.  I've 
been having trouble coming up with a new one though, so Ithought someone here 
might have a suggestion.  I've been thinking allweek and the best I can come 
up with is "Addicted to Olds".
Thanks
Chris >>

<< uh... how about 'Oldsaholics Anonymous? >>

Hmmm.

OK, got ya covered.

Oldsmo-phrenia

No?

Cutlass Supreme beings?

"98" Maniacs?

Ministry of Oldsmobiles?

World of W-cars?

All the world is an Oldsmobile and........naw. Thats silly.

Team Oldsmobile?
Naw, bound to be a real one who'll sue just for fun.

Telya whut.
Name your car, give it a persona, and give the site a title to match your car.
It works best if you put enough spin into your posts to get people to want to 
read your stuff and....hey, Karl oughta try that.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 10:35:27 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: 2 Questions

> ...hello all.  the chrome on my rear bumper is kinda nasty looking, so i'm
> thinking about painting it body color when i repaint the car.  what
> prep work is required? can i use body filler on the bumper?
> 
> further:
> the car is a '70 442.  any thoughts on how it would look with a painted
> bumper? maybe someone has a picture of a '70 - '72 cutlass with painted
> bumpers?
> _____________
> 
> The best way to paint a bumper is to take it to a chrome shop and have them
> chemically strip the plating off before painting.  Of course, this will cost 
a
> significant fraction of the cost of a replate anyway.  At a minimum you need 
to
> have the bumper thoroughly sandblasted to both remove the rust and to allow 
the
> paint to get a good "bite" in what's left of the chrome (paint doesn't 
normally
> stick that well to chrome).  Use a high-quality self-etching primer.  Yes, 
you
> can use body filler just like any other sheet metal.  As for looks, check 
out a
> 70 Rallye 350, which came from the factory with painted bumpers.

Well, when I read this I have to tell you that I would rather get that 
bumper rechromed. Why would you go thru such a hassle just to get a non 
stock look?
Another option may be plastic/fiberglass bumpers, wasn't there a place 
selling them for the 70? That way you can play with the fiberglass and 
keep the chrome as a core for changing the car back to the stock looks at 
a later point.  

My 0.02, George

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 10:41:35 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: RE: 1965 hood pads

> What is the purpose of this pad? Is it to protect the hood paint?

Yes, the hood pad does all the (negative) things listed by the fellow 
olds-fanatics. The real purpose though is to absorb engine noise and 
vibrations of the hood sheet metal (resonances) and make the car more 
quiet in the passengers compartment. So if you slap on some 1 chamber 
mufflers that end right under the floor pans this hood insulation may be 
worthless... I would say that most people on the list put it on to get 
the original engine comp. detailing. 

Regards, George

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 08:57:40 -0700 
From: BOYD DONALD R <drboyd@srpnet.com>
Subject: Hurst Paraphenalia

OK, so I've got a 76 Cutlass Supreme with the factory 455 and the Hurst
T-Top conversion.  Couple of questions about "Hurst-ifying" the car...

1.  The previous owner had installed a B&M shift handle.  Obviously, this is
entirely inappropriate :) for this vehicle, so I bought a genuine Hurst
T-handle.  Now I'm trying to figure out what the thread should be on the
handle.  It's not any kind of a machine thread that I can find, and it's
just a little bigger than a 1/4" pipe thread.  What _is_ this thing?  Is it
some kind of a Whitworth muffler bearing thread?  Anybody know?  I'm almost
to the point of drillin the handle out big and using JB Welb to make up the
threaded section, but getting the thread tapped right into the aluminum
would obvioulsy be better....

2.  The car has the "ralley pak" gauges, thank goodness, but lacks the
ever-so-important tachometer!  While I'm searching for the perfect tach, I
thought, why not get one that says "Hurst" on it?  Are those cool digitial
Hurst tachs available?  Any other kind of "Hurst" tachs around?

Thanks in advance!!

Don

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 11:59:22 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: 2 Questions

That way you can play with the fiberglass and
keep the chrome as a core for changing the car back to the stock looks at
a later point....
______

That's certainly true, but keep in mind that even if you paint a stock bumper,
you can always get it rechromed at a later date if you so desire.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 10:48:05 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: engine compartment: a/c to non a/c

Hi List, 

I want to change my a/c car over to non a/c. I learned on this list that 
you have to change the alternator over to the passengers side for the main 
step in the engine compartment. I have a 68 350 (originally with a/c) and 
the donor will be a 72 350 (without a/c).

I assume the 72 - 68 brackets will interchange... but:

What else do I need to get off the non a/c car?
- - Water pump and/or crank pulley
- - Water pump
- - Battery cable

Anybody that has done this mod. please fill me in!

TIA, George

68 cutlass s conv. (why a/c in a conv. anyway???)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 09:34:04 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: engine compartment: a/c to non a/c

>68 cutlass s conv. (why a/c in a conv. anyway???)

Because in most parts of the country there are a lot more occasions when 
you'd like A/C than there are occasions when you'd like to put the top down. 
Aside from the obvious, like when it's sunny but blazingly hot outside, 
there are also cold or wet days when the windows are all fogging up, and the 
A/C compressor is used on the Defrost setting to keep the windows clear, 
something it does really well because of the dehumidified air it puts out.

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 12:37:08 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: cranking pressure and CR, revisited (geeky, be warned!)

In a message dated 99-05-05 19:19:36 EDT, you write:

<< P1 x (V1)^r = P2 x (V2)^r >>
  
<< So what do we conclude? >>

That you have too much time on your hands?   :-)}

<< First, the actual compression process is neither at constant temperature, 
nor is it true that no heat is transferred to the cylinder walls and head, so 
in real life the compression process is neither isothermal nor adiabatic. 
This makes it a complicated problem to solve theoretically.  On top of that, 
pressure is bled off by leakage past the rings, and by the early opening of 
the intake valve before the piston reaches TDC. >>

More thoughts.
PV=nRT    (simple version)

This will give you information vis-a-vis the gas temperatures during 
compression, assuming a closed and isolated system.

A true equation to capture a realistic (though in fact theoretical) 
compression pressure prolly involves a hairy integral of pivical nert over 
time, but in this case, integrating over the distance of piston travel would 
be more to the point.

And as long as you are about to go to those lengths, mitaswell use the proper 
pivical nert equasion to figure for actual mass/size of the molecules and the 
fraction of the volume that they actually occupy.

Furthermore, assuming atmospheric pressure in cylinder at BDC or at intake 
valve closing (whichever comes last) is also quite a stretch. Atmospheric 
pressure definitely exists outside the air filter, maybe above the carb air 
horn, sometimes in the intake plenum (if a dual plane intake!!), but by the 
time it gets to the cylinder?

Uh-uh.

Realize that at beginning of intake stroke, the int valve of a different 
cylinder has just closed (right?) meaning that the "atmospheric pressure" has 
been recently tapped by another cylinder.

A generalization of 0.8x(ATM) might be in order.

Further.

Typically ignition occurs before TDC.
This causes something we wanted to bring up during the moisture discussion.
The LeChatlier Principle.
Basically it goes like this:
A = B + C + D
That reaction (reagents ((starting materials)) on the left and products on 
the right) will favor products because there are more products.
Nature features positive entropy (things tend to fall apart).

So those still with us are reeling somewhat.....but......

OK.
Gas and air are the reagents.
Products are water and, ideally, carbon dioxide.
But it is not a ideal world.
Also we gots leftover reagents from incomplete burn, not to mention carbon 
monoxide and other weird combustion products/pollutants.

What?

Oh, "whats my point?"

Well, yes, by LeChatliers principle, this is almost a spontaneous reaction, 
but given positive pressure, the same principle favors fewer chemical species.

Yup. Gas and air.

Also, the presence of multiple chemical species at TDC really complicates the 
question of pressure, as we have a minimum of 4 which have different 
properties as far as compressibility is concerned.

In short, fare thee well assumption of "noble gases".
(A "noble" gas has constant, predictable properties, whereas real gasses tend 
to be weirder)
((It's a gas, man!))

SOM

&KA <--- wasting what free time he has

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 09:39:29 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Hurst Paraphenalia

>2.  The car has the "ralley pak" gauges, thank goodness, but lacks
>the ever-so-important tachometer!  While I'm searching for the
>perfect tach, I thought, why not get one that says "Hurst" on it? Are those 
>cool digital Hurst tachs available?  Any other kind of
>"Hurst" tachs around?

I just downloaded the latest Hurst catalog from http://www.mrgasket.com 
(7.5M for a PDF download, which includes a nice letter and photo from Linda 
Vaughn :-) but couldn't find a single mention of tachs in the Table of 
Contents. The catalog itself is 153 pages. Just FYI...

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 12:50:00 EDT
From: MityOlds@aol.com
Subject: LR ChangeOver

List,

Has anyone ever changed their ' 80's G-Body floor shifter to the Lightning 
Rod Shifter?  I need detailed explanation of how it was done.  I'm having a 
little trouble doing my own changeover and need help.  Please E-Mail me 
privately at either  MityOlds@aol.com  or  NjOlds@aol.com.  Anybody's help 
would be greatly appreciated.

Enio Perdomo
' 87 Olds. CSB
http://members.xoom.com/NjOlds  

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 10:10:37 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Parking lights, long

>This is the damnable thing about it. There is 12V going into
>the switch and the headlights light up so there is current
>going through the switch. By putting the probes directly on
>the spade on the switch there is nothing going to the brown wire.

Whoa, big fella! Hold that thought.

If there's nothing coming out of a switch that works fine elsewhere, then 
there's nothing going into it. There's no reason why the switch should be 
limited to one power input. I think (and the wiring diagram should confirm 
it) that you have separate power inputs for headlamps and taillights to that 
switch, and only the headlamp feed is working.

Get the headlamp switch on the workbench. With the knob pulled out to the On 
position, measure continuity (lack of resistance) between the taillight 
output terminal and any other terminal on the switch. You should find at 
least one other terminal is tied to it internally that way (and which breaks 
the connection or goes to infinite resistance when the knob is pressed in to 
the Off position); that would be the power input terminal for the taillight 
circuit.

Now go back to the problem car and see if the wire feeding that power input 
terminal for the taillights is hot. I think it'll be dead, and your problem 
is somewhere further up the line. To confirm it, test the same wires on your 
car.

Heck, if you don't have a meter available, just use a test light to see 
which wires in the headlight switch plug are hot when the switch is removed. 
Compare the results of your car to the problem car. You should find at least 
one extra wire is dead on the problem car than on yours.

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 12:08:30 -0500
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: Re: cranking pressure and CR, revisited (geeky, be warned!)

KarlAunan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 99-05-05 19:19:36 EDT, you write:
> 
> << P1 x (V1)^r = P2 x (V2)^r >>
> 

> In short, fare thee well assumption of "noble gases".
> (A "noble" gas has constant, predictable properties, whereas real gasses tend
> to be weirder)
> ((It's a gas, man!))
> 
> SOM
> 
> &KA <--- wasting what free time he has

I missed the original thread, however:

 Depending on your application, perfect gas assumptions are close enough
for rock an roll.  Noble gases?????  We're not talking helium and argon
here.  If you want to be an engineer about it get a copy of Heywood,"IC
Engines"..I believe that's the title.  A guy from Northwestern called
Obert also authored a nice book on IC engines from a
thermodynamic/mechanical engineering point of view.  Includes calc's for
brake specific horsepower, mean effective pressure, ect....  In terms of
math, worst case is some simple calculus, no partial differentials or
UFO's, anyone with the desire to understand can learn alot from these
texts. Also a fair amount of history including flat heads and Ricardo
"exotic" heads mentioned.  There's another text by Lichty as well.  All
are good ref books.

Perfect gas law also works fine and dandy from most "estimating" type
applications, unless you're looking at nasty valve overlap, etc.....

Good luck.

Paul (I've go way too many engineering books lying around the house)
Brillhart
'65 442 (lying around the garage until I finish my bathroom)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 12:23:42 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: why no ac on conv. was: Re: engine compartment: a/c to non a/c

> >68 cutlass s conv. (why a/c in a conv. anyway???)
> 
> Because in most parts of the country there are a lot more occasions when 
> you'd like A/C than there are occasions when you'd like to put the top down. 
> Aside from the obvious, like when it's sunny but blazingly hot outside, 
> there are also cold or wet days when the windows are all fogging up, and the 
> A/C compressor is used on the Defrost setting to keep the windows clear, 
> something it does really well because of the dehumidified air it puts out.

Well, I am nobody that drives in a suit anyway and I will drive it in any 
hot and sunny weather top down. As long as you drive that is all right.. 
just don't stand at the light too long or you will drop dead...
You are right with the de-fogging but hey, is that option worth 1500 
bucks of total a/c rebuild? I rather go for a nice paint job and will 
sweat!!! (raised in the cold I still feel like I got to warm up!) If I 
reach the point with my project that there is nothing else left to do 
(will be in 5 years) I will get the A/C back in.

Regards, George

68 cutlass s conv. with still no a/c

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 11:54:41 -0600
From: "Jeff Newman" <newsance@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: TBI question

The performance chip is advancing your timing to far. Either get higher
octane gas, or let your truck warm up more before driving.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andy Lawrence <lawrencj@coral.indstate.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, May 02, 1999 10:26 PM
Subject: TBI question


>I have a 90 Fullsize chevy truck with a modfied 350....The engine has a
>Performance CAM, Chip, underdrive Pullies, Roller Tip rockers, unrestricted
>exhaust.....
>
>The problem is that under mid to 3/4 throttle without downshifting the
truck
>will Ping, rather loudly!  This only happens when the Truck is Cold, after
about
>2-3 minutes of driving when the trucks gets alittle warm it quits.
>Why is this?
>
>
>

________________________________________________________
NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet.  Shouldn't you?
Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 13:07:50 -0700
From: Andy Lawrence <lawrencj@coral.indstate.edu>
Subject: Re: TBI question

Jeff Newman wrote:

> The performance chip is advancing your timing to far. Either get higher
> octane gas, or let your truck warm up more before driving.

yea but isn't it ture that the Pinging problem increases with Engine Temp?  Why
would it do it conpletly cold? Then stop when it gets warm.....

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 12:12:35 -0600
From: "Jeff Newman" <newsance@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: How much for a tach?

Well, A dwell tack ain't really used for timing, but for carb adjustments,
you don't need anything but a light to set timing (or in my case you also
need  a timing indicator, since some stupid motherf@cker took it off) .

My dwell tack is a 20 year old sears model. Was a hand me down, and it works
great.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 4:09 PM
Subject: How much for a tach?


>I think that I would like to buy a dwell/tachometer (and if that's not what
>it's called, then what is it called?) that I would use to do timing
>adjustments, etc.  This wouldn't be of a type that you could readily use
>while driving (although anything's possible, I suppose...) - I would keep
>it on the shelf right next to the timing light until I needed it.
>
>I saw what I think was a SunPro model at Parts America for $40 - is this a
>decent price?
>
>Does anyone want to share info on just the GREATEST one of these they've
>ever owned, or a brand that absolutely sucks?
>
>Thanks,
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -
>Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
>MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
>2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
>Austin, TX 78722          Home: (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
>                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
>1984 Oldsmobile          Pager: (512) 483-8056
> Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
> 4-door
>"The Party Barge"
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -
>

________________________________________________________
NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet.  Shouldn't you?
Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 14:05:14 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1965 hood pads

In a message dated 99-05-06 11:57:28 EDT, you write:

<< Yes, the hood pad does all the (negative) things listed by the fellow 
 olds-fanatics. The real purpose though is to absorb engine noise and 
 vibrations of the hood sheet metal (resonances) and make the car more 
 quiet in the passengers compartment. So if you slap on some 1 chamber 
 mufflers that end right under the floor pans this hood insulation may be 
 worthless... I would say that most people on the list put it on to get 
 the original engine comp. detailing >>

Also it localizes engine temps for carburetor choke purposes.

No need for the cold light to come on every time you start the Oldsmobile.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 14:30:36 -0500
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...

I love it! That must have been a Yenko W-30, huh?
============
had no 442 emblems on it also no paint just primer but the glovebos door
says cutlass S and the guy tells me that the w-30 option was a chevy
engine
and that all cutlass's were 442s well that is about it for my venting
G'day
Cheers.....KK
- --
David Brown         Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
              Sneak a peek at 5.X FAQ at:
      www.ameritech.net/users/dlbrown/oldsfaq.htm
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 13:27:53 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: How much for a tach?

Yes, I know, but my carb is a POS (original '84 Quadrajet) with a "worn
throttle shaft" (words of a Tune-Up Master mechanic) and a broken Idle Load
Compensator (determined by me - the diaphragm has a hole in it), among many
other things, and it is difficult to get correct (or even CLOSE to correct)
RPMs without a meter.

As an aside, the phrase "the diaphragm has a hole in it", taken out of
context, takes on an entirely new meaning...

At 12:12 PM 5/6/99 -0600, you wrote:
>Well, A dwell tack ain't really used for timing, but for carb adjustments,
>you don't need anything but a light to set timing (or in my case you also
>need  a timing indicator, since some stupid motherf@cker took it off) .
>
>My dwell tack is a 20 year old sears model. Was a hand me down, and it works
>great.
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Date: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 4:09 PM
>Subject: How much for a tach?
>
>
>>I think that I would like to buy a dwell/tachometer (and if that's not what
>>it's called, then what is it called?) that I would use to do timing
>>adjustments, etc.  This wouldn't be of a type that you could readily use
>>while driving (although anything's possible, I suppose...) - I would keep
>>it on the shelf right next to the timing light until I needed it.
>>
>>I saw what I think was a SunPro model at Parts America for $40 - is this a
>>decent price?
>>
>>Does anyone want to share info on just the GREATEST one of these they've
>>ever owned, or a brand that absolutely sucks?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>-
>>Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
>>MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
>>2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
>>Austin, TX 78722          Home: (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
>>                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
>>1984 Oldsmobile          Pager: (512) 483-8056
>> Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
>> 4-door
>>"The Party Barge"
>>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>-
>>
>
>________________________________________________________
>NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet.  Shouldn't you?
>Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
>http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
> 
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 13:35:54 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: How much for a tach?

At 09:31 AM 5/6/99 -0500, you wrote:
>hmmmm given the choices that seems to be your only option the digital items
>are all simply multimeters oh well there you go...KK

I don't think this is correct.  The CP7678 and CP7680 are both multimeters,
true, but they also function as tachometers thru 8000 RPM.  The 7680 also
does temperature readings and a whole bunch of other things that I will
probably never even figure out how to use.

The other side of this is I already HAVE a multimeter, and I like it - it
is a PIMP ASS Weston Analyzer Model 980 Mark II that my Grandfather gave
me.  It's analog, huge, black, has a bitchin' big rotory dial on the front
that goes "click" at each stop, and already does Ohms, Volts AC & DC, and
Current.  Granted, I don't know how to USE all of these functions, but if I
DID, I would already be able to.

So really, you see, all I need is a tachometer.  Tell me what to do, people...

>----- Original Message -----
>From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Sent: Thursday, May 06, 1999 12:08 AM
>Subject: Re: How much for a tach?
>
>
>> Kerry wrote:
>>
>> At 10:19 PM 5/5/99 -0500, you wrote:
>> >I have a sunpro that I have been using for years it is the digital model
>> >that normally sells for about 69-70 dollars if the one you are looking at
>is
>> >the engine analyzer analog version forget it spend a little more and get
>a
>> >better tool mine does volts dwell rpm and ohms and the only thing
>replaced
>> >is batteries and leads have had it for about 10 years ...KK
>>
>> OK...a picture of the the one that I was looking at (Dwell/Tach/Volts
>> Analyzer - CP7605, web price $49.99) can be found at the following link:
>>
>> http://www.actron.com/cgi-bin/web_store.cgi?page=cp7605.htm
>>
>> I'm pretty sure that this is the one that you are telling me not to get.
>>
>> Now, there are two digital multimeters (that do tach) on the SunPro site -
>>
>> (Digital Engine Analyzer - CP7678, web price $109.99)
>> http://www.actron.com/cgi-bin/web_store.cgi?page=cp7678.htm
>>
>> and
>>
>> (Diagnostic Multimeter - CP7680, web price $139.99)
>> http://www.actron.com/cgi-bin/web_store.cgi?page=cp7680.htm
>>
>> Now, the cheaper one of these is $110, the more expensive one is $140,
>both
>> are between $70 and $100 MORE EXPENSIVE than the analog model.  Even
>> factoring in that these "web prices" are possibly $10 - $20 more than
>> retail, this is still a big chunk of change.
>>
>> I'm glad I asked this question, because if I hadn't I probably already
>> would have bought the analog model.  Am I missing an available model
>> somewhere (between the analog and the cheaper digital one)?
>>
>> Are these more expensive digital testers worth it?
>>
>> If I WAS going to drop the money for one of these two digital ones, I
>> probably would have to buy the more expensive one - because there's only
>> $30 difference between the two digitals.  Once you jump up the initial $70
>> (analog to digital) the extra $30 seems like a drop in the bucket, and to
>> buy the cheaper seems (to me) to be a waste of resources.  IS THIS A
>STUPID
>> WAY TO LOOK AT THIS?
>> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
>--
>> Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
>> MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
>> 2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
>> Austin, TX 78722          Home: (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
>>                                               (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
>> 1984 Oldsmobile          Pager: (512) 483-8056
>> Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
>> 4-door
>> "The Party Barge"
>> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
>--
>>
> 
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 13:43:27 -0500 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas.Martin@motorola.com>
Subject: Long or short tail THM400

Did Olds use long or short tail THM400's in the 69-70 455 Delta 88's?  

The car is a long ways away, so I cannot look and see.  

My 76 Delta had a THM375, long tail, basically a THM400 minus 1 clutch I
think.  The rebuild for it was the same as the THM400.  

(Not a THM375B, which is a beefier THM350)

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!
  

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 14:02:25 -0500 (CDT)
From: JEREMY KENT BYERS <jbyers@badlands.NoDak.edu>
Subject: [none]

subscribe oldsmobile

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 15:00:13 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...

then it would have had the ultra rare 427 olds engine and be called a yenko
super cutlass.....KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: David Brown <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
To: olds mail list <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 1999 2:30 PM
Subject: Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...


> I love it! That must have been a Yenko W-30, huh?
> ============
> had no 442 emblems on it also no paint just primer but the glovebos door
> says cutlass S and the guy tells me that the w-30 option was a chevy
> engine
> and that all cutlass's were 442s well that is about it for my venting
> G'day
> Cheers.....KK
> --
> David Brown         Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
>               Sneak a peek at 5.X FAQ at:
>       www.ameritech.net/users/dlbrown/oldsfaq.htm
>           Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
> http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
> Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
>            ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 16:15:27 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...

then it would have had the ultra rare 427 olds engine and be called a yenko
super cutlass.....KK
_____

Actually, an E-block 400 (4.000 bore) with a 425 crank (4.250 stroke) gives you
a 427 Olds motor.  Of course, given the small bore and long stroke, one would
have to ask why...

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
68 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 16:25:14 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...

Just because ???????????

Omega Man




>Actually, an E-block 400 (4.000 bore) with a 425 crank (4.250 stroke)
gives you
>a 427 Olds motor.  Of course, given the small bore and long stroke, one would
>have to ask why...
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>68 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 16:28:47 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...

>Actually, an E-block 400 (4.000 bore) with a 425 crank (4.250 stroke)...
_______

Uh, obviously I should have said a _455_ crank, but you all knew what I 
meant...
(besides, the 2 is right below the 5 on the keypad)

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 15:36:23 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Mechanical vs. hydraulic cam

So to change to a mechanical cam from hydraulic would prove no HP gain?




Pettrix@prodigy.net

> The whole reason for using solid lifters is to prevent lifter pump-up at
higher
> RPM.  This will permit the engine to rev higher, and thus will allow it
to make
> more power at very high RPM, but for an Olds motor limited to 6000 RPM,
there
> won't be a difference.  Note that this does not take into account the
effects of
> variable duration lifters like Rhodes.  These high-leakage units will
> effectively change the cam profile by allowing it to act as a less
radical cam
> at lower RPM, which would actually fatten the torque curve at the low end
(at
> the expense of annoying lifter clatter).
> 
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
> 
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 69 442
> 70 W-30
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 16:44:15 -0400
From: "Jim and Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: 70 DELTA88 QUESTIONS

Ed,
    My car was originally a single exhaust car and was converted to dual
before I got it.  The passenger manifold has two openings in the bottom.
One for crossover to the drivers side and the other goes to the rear.  The
crossover pipes was smashed together and welded a couple inches from the
manifold and the other pipe continues to the rear.  On the drivers side the
pipe would have to be routed to the rear.  I have heard on this list before
that full size cars with single exhaust and dual exhaust have the same
exhaust manifolds with some sort of cap installed where the crossover pipe
would go on the passenger manifold.

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible  OCA# 031463
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net

> From: EDMUND WILLIAMS [mailto:efw67@yahoo.com]

    And finally, I want to make my single exhaust into duals on my 88 can I
use the
> original single exhaust manifols to do this? Anyone please help me.
> Thanks Ed
> _________________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 15:59:30 -0500 
From: Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com
Subject: RE: How much for a tach?

We got a middle of the road one at Sears for around 39-49$ and we have
been real happy with it.  We store it with the timing light in a plastic
container with a easy open lid so it won't get dusty or dirty out on a
shelf in the garage.  If you use a fender guard the Sears ones are made
fairly well also.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Brian Ammons [SMTP:b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu]
> Sent:	Wednesday, May 05, 1999 5:15 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	How much for a tach?
> 
> I think that I would like to buy a dwell/tachometer (and if that's not
> what
> it's called, then what is it called?) that I would use to do timing
> adjustments, etc.  This wouldn't be of a type that you could readily
> use
> while driving (although anything's possible, I suppose...) - I would
> keep
> it on the shelf right next to the timing light until I needed it.
> 
> I saw what I think was a SunPro model at Parts America for $40 - is
> this a
> decent price?
> 
> Does anyone want to share info on just the GREATEST one of these
> they've
> ever owned, or a brand that absolutely sucks?
> 
> Thanks,
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> ------
> Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
> MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
> 2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
> Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
>                                               (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
> 1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
> 	Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
> 		4-door
> "The Party Barge"
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> ------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 16:11:53 -0500 
From: Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com
Subject: RE: engine compartment: a/c to non a/c

I second that opinion......since we have had some beautiful days but
they were too hot to have the top down.....and it's only the beginning
of May!!

Mickey
'68 Cutlass "s" Conv
Dallas, Texas

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Andrew C. Green [SMTP:acg_o@hotmail.com]
> Sent:	Thursday, May 06, 1999 11:34 AM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	Re: engine compartment: a/c to non a/c
> 
> >68 cutlass s conv. (why a/c in a conv. anyway???)
> 
> Because in most parts of the country there are a lot more occasions
> when 
> you'd like A/C than there are occasions when you'd like to put the top
> down. 
> Aside from the obvious, like when it's sunny but blazingly hot
> outside, 
> there are also cold or wet days when the windows are all fogging up,
> and the 
> A/C compressor is used on the Defrost setting to keep the windows
> clear, 
> something it does really well because of the dehumidified air it puts
> out.
> 
> -- Andy
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 16:12:54 -0500 
From: Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com
Subject: RE: why no ac on conv. was: Re: engine compartment: a/c to non a/ c

Just make sure you keep all the parts, take lots of pictures, and label
everything!!!

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	George [SMTP:cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu]
> Sent:	Thursday, May 06, 1999 12:24 PM
> To:	OldsML
> Subject:	why no ac on conv. was: Re: engine compartment: a/c to
> non a/c
> 
> 
> 
> > >68 cutlass s conv. (why a/c in a conv. anyway???)
> > 
> > Because in most parts of the country there are a lot more occasions
> when 
> > you'd like A/C than there are occasions when you'd like to put the
> top down. 
> > Aside from the obvious, like when it's sunny but blazingly hot
> outside, 
> > there are also cold or wet days when the windows are all fogging up,
> and the 
> > A/C compressor is used on the Defrost setting to keep the windows
> clear, 
> > something it does really well because of the dehumidified air it
> puts out.
> 
> Well, I am nobody that drives in a suit anyway and I will drive it in
> any 
> hot and sunny weather top down. As long as you drive that is all
> right.. 
> just don't stand at the light too long or you will drop dead...
> You are right with the de-fogging but hey, is that option worth 1500 
> bucks of total a/c rebuild? I rather go for a nice paint job and will 
> sweat!!! (raised in the cold I still feel like I got to warm up!) If I
> 
> reach the point with my project that there is nothing else left to do 
> (will be in 5 years) I will get the A/C back in.
> 
> Regards, George
> 
> 68 cutlass s conv. with still no a/c

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 17:29:06 -0500
From: "Dan Schein" <schein@mailroom.com>
Subject: RE: Hurst Paraphenalia

Theres one in my 73 Hurst Olds. Buy the tach and I'll toss in the car ;-)

- -Dan
- ---
Dan Schein Esq. mailto:schein@netzero.net
West Lawn, PA USA -=- TLCA Member 6687
Visit http://schein.webjump.com
Home of Mid-Atlantic 4x4 Mailing List
and The Toyota Land Cruiser WebRing 

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Andrew C. Green
> Sent: Thursday, May 06, 1999 11:39 AM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Hurst Paraphenalia
> 
> 
> >2.  The car has the "ralley pak" gauges, thank goodness, but lacks
> >the ever-so-important tachometer!  While I'm searching for the
> >perfect tach, I thought, why not get one that says "Hurst" on 
> it? Are those 
> >cool digital Hurst tachs available?  Any other kind of
> >"Hurst" tachs around?
> 
> I just downloaded the latest Hurst catalog from http://www.mrgasket.com 
> (7.5M for a PDF download, which includes a nice letter and photo 
> from Linda 
> Vaughn :-) but couldn't find a single mention of tachs in the Table of 
> Contents. The catalog itself is 153 pages. Just FYI...
> 
> -- Andy
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
> 
________________________________________________________
NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet.  Shouldn't you?
Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 17:28:23 EDT
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69 H/O in July'99 MCR...it's SLOW!

Hey Harry     I already repented from my sin   have you???


The Holyman

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 17:46:44 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69 H/O in July'99 MCR...it's SLOW!

In a message dated 5/6/99 5:34:25 PM Eastern Daylight Time, HURSTOLDZ@aol.com 
writes:

<< Hey Harry     I already repented from my sin   have you???
 
 
 The Holyman >>
You bet ya I did....dont need more on my bad record...Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 18:04:45 EDT
From: MAT68442@aol.com
Subject: Question's: putting 455 in 87 442

I'm going to be putting a 69,455 in my 87 442. I would like to be able to 
maintain keeping a 4 speed automatic in the car. The one that is in the car 
now probably wont withstand the torque that the 455 puts out. Is there a 4 
speed automatic that will bolt up to a 455.

Mark
87 442
87 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
71 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 17:17:44 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: Question's: putting 455 in 87 442

A Buick-Olds-Pontiac TH-2004R will bolt up to a 455.  This transmission was
available in many different cars, including Buick Grand Nationals, and
quite probably your 442.  While a GN generates a lot of HP, it does not
have the torque of a 455 (as you noted), and therefore would probably not
live for very long mounted behind one, UNLESS you did some MONDO
modifications to it.

SOMEONE on the list has done this, and talked about it before, but I can't
get them to talk about it because (a) I don't know their name and (b) they
(appearantly) don't read my posts.  Someone else on the list seemed to
think that the car that had the 455/TH-2004R combo was more of a Sunday
cruiser type, not a balls to the wall street machine.

You CAN rebuild the TH200-4R to live behind the 455, and you would probably
really enjoy it, given the OD would let you run a (numerically) higher rear
end ratio.  BUT, like I said, it would have to be H-E-A-V-Y D-U-T-Y for you
to not worry about breaking it.

A BETTER idea would be to acquire a TH-700R4.  This would only come in a
Chevy bolt-pattern, but you can supposedly get an adapter plate, fairly
cheap, that would make it work with B-O-P.  I believe there are some
problems with the 700R4 requiring a computer (or something) to work, but
there are work-arounds that have been discussed on the list before.

SOMEONE ELSE on the list has also done THIS - maybe you can try and get
their attention and ask them.

Perhaps a useful link for you:

http://www.phoenixtrans.com/

Good luck,

At 06:04 PM 5/6/99 -0400, you wrote:
>I'm going to be putting a 69,455 in my 87 442. I would like to be able to 
>maintain keeping a 4 speed automatic in the car. The one that is in the car 
>now probably wont withstand the torque that the 455 puts out. Is there a 4 
>speed automatic that will bolt up to a 455.
>
>Mark
>87 442
>87 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
>71 Cutlass S
> 
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 18:25:00 EDT
From: GaryDW30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Alloy rims - cleaning

Well, I just cleaned one on my MKVII SE this weekend. After going through a 
couple of car washes with wheel scrub that didn't get it cleaned up. (I had 
had a caliper stick)

I used Simple Green (50/50 mix) and a scrub brush. Cleaned up well, took 
maybe 15 minutes.

Gary

69 W30 4-speed
92 Mark VII SE
plus and assortment of other
cars, trucks and vans

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 18:44:54 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Question's: putting 455 in 87 442

You can get an adapter from Bell(I think),  and palce a 700r4 behind the
455.  TCI rebuilds the trany to withstand the abuse and torque.  My project
is not that far yet,  but this is what I plan to do.  Also note that the
drive shaft may have to be modified.  This is true of the other swaps too(I
think).
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <MAT68442@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 1999 6:04 PM
Subject: Question's: putting 455 in 87 442


> I'm going to be putting a 69,455 in my 87 442. I would like to be able to
> maintain keeping a 4 speed automatic in the car. The one that is in the
car
> now probably wont withstand the torque that the 455 puts out. Is there a 4
> speed automatic that will bolt up to a 455.
>
> Mark
> 87 442
> 87 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
> 71 Cutlass S
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 17:32:36 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: How much for a tach?

New Developments:

Class was cancelled today, so I went shopping.  The Actron/SunPro 7605
(analog dwell/tach/volts) is available at Parts America for $40.  This tach
will display 8 cylinder RPMs from 0 - 2000.

There is a Sears (Craftsman) model 2165 that I WOULD say is the same as the
Actron 7605, except that the switch and needle are reversed from the Actron
unit, and it does not say Actron anywhere on it (although Sears' digital
multimeters are manufactured by Actron, so there's some room for debate).
This one also does 8 cyl RPMs 0-2000, and costs $30.

Now, the kicker - The Sears (Craftsman) Engine Analyzer, Model 2163, is a
larger, more robust looking version of the smaller analog units.  It has a
bigger face, more cool switch positions, and does 8-cyl RPMs in TWO
selectable stages - 0-1200 and 0 - 6000.  This one costs $50.

NOW what's the better buy?  I would spend $50 for the Engine Analyzer if it
was worth it, the $40 for the smaller model that says Actron/SunPro on it
if that meant it would hold up longer, or $30 for the small Sears model if
that was really all I needed.


OK...a picture of the the one that I was looking at (Dwell/Tach/Volts
>Analyzer - CP7605, web price $49.99) can be found at the following link:
>
>http://www.actron.com/cgi-bin/web_store.cgi?page=cp7605.htm
>
>I'm pretty sure that this is the one that you are telling me not to get.
>
>Now, there are two digital multimeters (that do tach) on the SunPro site - 
>
>(Digital Engine Analyzer - CP7678, web price $109.99)
>http://www.actron.com/cgi-bin/web_store.cgi?page=cp7678.htm
>
>and
>
>(Diagnostic Multimeter - CP7680, web price $139.99)
>http://www.actron.com/cgi-bin/web_store.cgi?page=cp7680.htm
>
>Now, the cheaper one of these is $110, the more expensive one is $140, both
>are between $70 and $100 MORE EXPENSIVE than the analog model.  Even
>factoring in that these "web prices" are possibly $10 - $20 more than
>retail, this is still a big chunk of change.
>
>I'm glad I asked this question, because if I hadn't I probably already
>would have bought the analog model.  Am I missing an available model
>somewhere (between the analog and the cheaper digital one)?
>
>Are these more expensive digital testers worth it?
>
>If I WAS going to drop the money for one of these two digital ones, I
>probably would have to buy the more expensive one - because there's only
>$30 difference between the two digitals.  Once you jump up the initial $70
>(analog to digital) the extra $30 seems like a drop in the bucket, and to
>buy the cheaper seems (to me) to be a waste of resources.  IS THIS A STUPID
>WAY TO LOOK AT THIS?
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
>MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
>2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
>Austin, TX 78722          Home:	(512) 236-8088 (Austin)
>                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
>1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	(512) 483-8056
>	Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
>		4-door
>"The Party Barge"
>----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1945
*********************************

