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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1940


oldsmobile-digest        Tuesday, May 4 1999        Volume 01 : Number 1940



AM/FM Radio Rebuild
Re: Wire Wheels
Re: Vibration Part 59
Re: drag race
Re: tach on a '68
Re: Building a 403
unsubscribe
Re: Parts Wanted.
Re: Vibration Part 59
Re: AM/FM Radio Rebuild
Re: drag race
Big Car folks....SS IV Wheels
Engine Pics
Re: tach on a '68
Re: tach on a '68
Re: AM/FM Radio Rebuild
Re: Wire Wheels
Re: PH-11 or PH-25 in ANY Olds?
Re: Torker vs Performer
Fram, the Devil Filter? was: PH-11 or PH-25 in ANY Olds?
Re: Torker vs Performer
Re: Fram, the Devil Filter? was: PH-11 or PH-25 in ANY Olds?
Re: flywheel 4-speed
Re: Parts Wanted.
Re: Sticky Sport Steering Wheels
Re:  Re: Burnout RPM
New Addition
RE: Vibration Part 59
Re: Fram, the Devil Filter? was: PH-11 or PH-25 in ANY Olds?
RE: Lightning Rods
Another Olds in the Family
Re: drag race
Re: Another Olds in the Family
Re: Body and frame shops
FW: selling a 442
Re: drag race
Re: New Addition
Re: New Addition
BMW Isetta performance parts (works on Q4, too...)
Re: New Addition
RE: Exhaust recommendations on a 72 Cutlass
Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...
Re: BMW Isetta performance parts (works on Q4, too...)
Re: Windshield Pinchweld
Re: BMW Isetta performance parts (works on Q4, too...)
Re: drag race
torsion-bar height adjustability (was Toro suspension travel
Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...
Mid-West listmembers in Tornado Zone
cracked exhaust manifold repair ("Pyro Putty")
Re: BMW Isetta performance parts (works on Q4, too...)
Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...
RE: Mid-West listmembers in Tornado Zone
Re: toro suspension travel
Re: BMW Isetta performance parts (works on Q4, too...)
Never throw anything away!
Re: Fram, the Devil Filter? was: PH-11 or PH-25 in ANY Olds?
Re: drag race

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 21:25:24 -0500
From: Brian D Savoy <ninetyeight1973@juno.com>
Subject: AM/FM Radio Rebuild

Hi Bruce,
	I've just gone through my '73 AM/FM/8Track because I was too
cheep to pay the $200 to $400 to have it done.  Mine had gotten to the
point that the tape player stopped playing and I couldn't tune it with
the dial.  I figured I didn't have anything to loose so, I took it out
and dismanteled it.
	The tuner needed to be re-adjusted (tightened up).  The AM/FM
Slidder Bar mechanism at the tuner was bound up and needed to be cleaned
up and relubed.  I found a local electronics supply that was able to
order me replacement belts for the 8 track. No other adjustments were
required.
	I polished the plastic "Station" indicator with Brasso (careful
not to polish off the white painted numbers).  Polished the push buttons
with the Brasso.  Stripped off the old black paint off the face of the
radio and repainted with flat black lacquer spray paint.  The chrome on
the face wasn't worn and didn't need replating so I just masked off the
parts that remain chrome and repainted.
	This took me the whole weekend but, I took my sweet time. 
Everything went back together fairly easily but took some time and
patients.  It turned out to be the most rewarding job I've done to my '73
NinetyEight.  ALSO!  Make sure that any speekers being replace are at
least 8 ohm.  (4 ohm speekers will ruin the radio!)
	The only thing that I was dissappointed about was the AM and FM
labels on the front of the face where the slidder bar slides over.  Out
of disperation, I dicided to set down to my computer and work with
Microsoft "Word".  With a whole lot of trial and error I was able to
produce a perfect copy of the original labels and now the radio looks as
good as it sounds.  I'm no electronics "whiz kid".  The radio electronics
were in perfect shape. I just have a basic mechanical aptitude and was
able to pull this off without a hitch.   The best part is; this all cost
me less that $10 (ten bucks).  (Hmmmmm.....Maybe I should have kept quiet
and put an ad out on the web to do this for $150.)
	I will forward you a couple of other contacts that do the work
for you.  I've got them at the office and will forward them to you in the
morning.

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 19:25:16 -0700
From: BC <beastmaster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Wire Wheels

Thats VATOS, roflmao
Bruce


>
>   Daytons are those HIDIOUS looking wire wheels that the votos (spl?) use on
> their low riders...you know the ones with the Rangers Bass Boat metallic
> flake paint...hahaha
>
> Collyn

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 22:26:03 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: Vibration Part 59

whats it do when you put the car in nuetral and cost at higher speeds...
Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 22:27:34 EDT
From: QWKCUTLASS@aol.com
Subject: Re: drag race

hey, disconnecting the back brakes will also get you a better et. in the 
quarter, just hope you have enought room to stop.  Av gas could help you out, 
you can also run your timing a little higher than normal, i heard that Olds 
run really weel with 34 to 35 degress advanced.  I wouldn't run that timing 
without at least octane booster in the gas.  good luck friday

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 22:28:17 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: tach on a '68

I had my Sun Tach in the stock location of my 71 442 in the dash...
Hot Rod Harry...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 22:38:21 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Building a 403

Martin,
That duration number I mentioned for low end torque, 203 - 210 deg @ .050 was 
for
the intake.  Exhaust would be higher by 8 - 12 deg.  Most cam companies 
recommend
split duration cams for that engine.
Dude
retrorockets wrote:

> Martin,
> Careful about upping the compression ratio too much if you're looking for 
lots
> of low end torque.  It's easy to have problems with detonation that way.
> Probably want to keep CR in the low 9s and use a short duration cam, say 203 
-
> 210 deg @ .050.  Cubic inches and short cams make for low end grunt.
>
> Dude
>
> Martin Thomas-WLTM07 wrote:
>
> > Any recommendations for building a torque monster low rpm 403?
> >
> > I am looking at one to replace my 350, and would like to know how to make 
it
> > run gobs of low rpm torque.  Should I run 307 heads for higher compression?
> > Should I use the 350 heads?  Or do the 4A's work well??
> >
> > Any help would be appreciated.
> >
> > Is it worth getting Mondello's ref book?
> >
> > Thanks!
> > Thomas Martin
> > 80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
> > 85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC (considering 403 power!)
> > 91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 09:43:10 -0700
From: "Richard Naessen" <spooky@win.bright.net>
Subject: unsubscribe

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 22:36:06 -0400
From: "M. Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Parts Wanted.

 a 455 motor.  Anybody got some?  Seems to
> me somebody somewhere was parting out an
> SX a while ago.  Can't remember who that was.
>
> Also- anybody got a used Fluidampr Harmonic
> Balancer laying around and want to trade it for
> cash.  I see they cost a few hundred bucks new.  Considering it probably
> has nothing to
> do with the vibration I am trying to beat, I don't
> really want to pay full price for that one.
>
> Any leads would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks!
>
> Kevin D. Wood
> Dr-Olds@webtv.net
Can't help with the balancer but I went through a similar problem with my
69. When I got it a couple of years ago, it had a bad vibration at 75 - 80
that a sharp mechanic diagnosed as a bent rear axle. He spotted it when he
had the wheel off to balance it. For some reason he was spinning the rear
axle and saw the drum rotating eccentrically (?). I couldn't find an axle
anywhere and ended up changing the whole rear end assembly.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie, Melbourne, FL
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/~mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 22:48:58 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Vibration Part 59

You said you eliminated tires as a source of vibration.  If you only had them
balanced, they could still be out of round.  I have some Eagle STs with the
problem.  They balance out on a balancer but you can see the tread move up and
down radially as they spin.  Jack up the back, put it in gear, and see if they
spin true.

GT5726@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 5/3/99 8:49:49 PM Central Daylight Time, Dr-Olds@webtv.net
> writes:
>
> << I hope to change all 4 front wheel bearings
>  in the next couple of days, and if that doesn't
>  fix it I'm gonna part out the damn thing.  Anybody need 72 Cutlass
>  Supreme parts? almost everything is new now!  (Just kidding, please do
>  not send me parts wanted lists).
>  I will fix the problem if it's the last thing I do.
>   >>
>   Have you checked the front steering components? I had a 81 Camaro that had
> a vibration above 70mph and it was due to a worn tie rod end.
>
> Collyn

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 19:44:35 -0700
From: BC <beastmaster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: AM/FM Radio Rebuild

Brian,
You da man, I looked at mine and thought about the time a took a wrist watch
apart, crude everywhere. You know it is funny, I can build a computer from
scratch and not blink an eye, but the thought of opening this radio terrifies
me. Boy if that don't beat all, thanks for the advice I may end up taking it
because it definitely ain't going to a shop for $200.
Again Thank you very much.
Bruce
1970 Delta88 Conv
1975 Delta88 Royale Conv
1979 Delta88 Royale HT

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 22:46:55 -0400 (EDT)
From: vfquick442@webtv.net (markas)
Subject: Re: drag race

Have not seen it mentioned on list but CAM2 racing fuel is better than
aviation fuel which is dangerous to run because  specific gravity is
different in aviation vs, automotive fuels. I use 50/50 mix of CAM2 and
ultra 94 for octane of about 102, It rocks!                        

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 22:46:23 EDT
From: Knightvd@aol.com
Subject: Big Car folks....SS IV Wheels

For anyone interested I am offering my set of SS IV wheels on Ebay, item # 
99330960.

Vince Knight
'71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 22:47:14 -0400
From: "M. Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Engine Pics

Finally!! There are new pics of my 350 compartment posted on my Web site at
long last. Should have detailed it a little bit better but I had a digital
camera and the car in the same place at the same time, so I took advantage
of it.
Notice it's got about 8" of the "bad" fuel line hose that came with the
Edelbrock inline filter kit. Looks like I'll have to get a new stainless
line and bend it up to cut down on the amount of rubber. It's not on the
manifold though. Had it on there for over a year.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie, Melbourne, FL
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/~mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 20:10:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Larry <kajrav@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Re: tach on a '68

I've seen a couple of '68's with a tach mounted in the clock opening.  




- ---FIFTY7C@aol.com wrote:
>
> Can someone give me some advice on mounting a tach in a 68 Cutlass.
The 
> clearance between the dash and the steering wheel is minimal. Just
looking 
> for some creative ideas.
> 
> Thanks, 
> 
> Ray
> 

_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 23:43:28 EDT
From: MrExMt@aol.com
Subject: Re: tach on a '68

I mounted mine under the dash at an angle & up facing  the driver. I centered 
it w/ my console. It looks great there. I had the same problem w/ the column.
Good luck.
Leigh 
'68 Cutlass S convert.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 23:46:44 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: AM/FM Radio Rebuild

In a message dated 5/3/99 9:07:15 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
beastmaster@earthlink.net writes:

<< I have a couple of late 60's Wonderbar AM/FM Radios and I would like to 
send them
 out to be checked and cleaned.  >>

I found a guy at Carlisle who does a complete rebuild and guarantees the 
entire radio for 2 years.  He is in PA and charges $160.  Name is Mike Hagan 
@ 215-547-7145.  I saw someone else at Carlisle just before I saw him and 
they wanted $250 for a rebuilt unit and only had a 90 day warranty.  

I will probably use him after the car show season.  I don't want to leave a 
hole in the dash.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 00:09:19 EDT
From: Jetaway4sp@aol.com
Subject: Re: Wire Wheels

Bruce,

I think your Delta would look great with wire wheels. They are definitely 
available for you car. Truespoke, Appliance, and Weld Wheel have made spoke 
wheels for full size cars in the past.
I have owned two cars with after-market wire wheels. Both coincidentally were 
stolen and stripped, primarily for the wheels. 
Draw your own conclusions.
I know that nowadays I wouldn't consider putting wire wheels on any car I was 
emotionally attached to !!

Randy in Oklahoma
57 88 J2

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 01:35:48 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: PH-11 or PH-25 in ANY Olds?

In a message dated 5/3/99 11:30:19 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
ravalent@liii.com writes:

<< > Further, please do NOT use the Fram filter with PFTE in your car.
 > You will be sorry when you pay for the overbore.
 
 So does this mean the Fram filters better than others?
 
                      -->   Bob Valentine  <- >>
	Actually I think Karl meant the Fram filters with teflon already 
added to them. He means teflon from any source is not good for your engine if 
i read it right : )     Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 00:51:45 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Torker vs Performer

HE switched to the Performer because the Torkers RPm range was way baove
what he spins the motor to. Even Mondello with the JM 4-5 cam in Car Craft
used the Performer intake and made 500HP and 560LBS TORQUE...
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Stephen Hoover <shang@connect.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Torker vs Performer
> Date: Monday, May 03, 1999 4:57 PM
> 
> 830 80 square on a Torker, sounds like a nice setup, why did he change
> to the Performer?
> I would say he should be fine where's he at. The Performer will boost
> the signal to the carb, but still needs to be on the rich side, those
> big blocks need that raw fuel. ;)
> 
> 
> Stephen Hoover
> Dallas, Texas
> '70 Supreme
> 
> Peter Landowski wrote:
> > 
> > A friend of mine had a Torker intake on his 455 with an 830cfm carb and
80
> > - 80 jets. Now he put on the Edelbrock Performer Intake. Should he go
> > richer or leaner?
> > Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 01:05:53 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Fram, the Devil Filter? was: PH-11 or PH-25 in ANY Olds?

Charles wrote:

>This and another e-mail got me looking around for oil filter
>information. Fram *used* to be a quality manufacturer. If you can
>believe the information at 
>
><http://members.xoom.com/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html> 
>
>(I do) then that is no longer true. I'm taking my un-used Frams back for
>refund or replacement.

OK.  I agree with you that this guy is a) "very focused", shall we say, b)
seems to have reasonable explanations as to why he likes/has no opinion
on/hates certain filters, and c) appears to have done a lot of homework on
the subject.  The E-mail from the Allied Signal guy is really just gravy
(but TASTY gravy)...

BUT...how many people have really had a problem with Fram filters (or knew
of the appearantly vast conspiracy about how bad Frams suck)?  How many
people have had a problem with ANY filter (that didn't say "El Cheapo
Royale" on the box) made in the last fifteen years?

Maybe the number is much higher than I imagine, but...if you change the
thing every 3,000 miles, how bad could it get?
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 01:14:24 -0500
From: Stephen Hoover <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: Torker vs Performer

Well the Performer is more streetable, but I run a Torker and I LOVE the
power it makes over the stock manifold I had. Same case with my motor,
it will not go out to the end of the Torker's power range, but man it is
vicious at about 23-2500 all the way up. I run a 2200 stall and 3.73's,
so the Torker may be more closely matched to my setup than your friend.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

Peter Landowski wrote:
> 
> HE switched to the Performer because the Torkers RPm range was way baove
> what he spins the motor to. Even Mondello with the JM 4-5 cam in Car Craft
> used the Performer intake and made 500HP and 560LBS TORQUE...
> Pettrix@prodigy.net
> 
> ----------
> > From: Stephen Hoover <shang@connect.net>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Re: Torker vs Performer
> > Date: Monday, May 03, 1999 4:57 PM
> >
> > 830 80 square on a Torker, sounds like a nice setup, why did he change
> > to the Performer?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 02:39:44 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fram, the Devil Filter? was: PH-11 or PH-25 in ANY Olds?

In a message dated 5/3/99 10:59:09 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu writes:

<< OK.  I agree with you that this guy is a) "very focused", shall we say, b)
 seems to have reasonable explanations as to why he likes/has no opinion
 on/hates certain filters, and c) appears to have done a lot of homework on
 the subject.  The E-mail from the Allied Signal guy is really just gravy
 (but TASTY gravy)...
 
 BUT...how many people have really had a problem with Fram filters (or knew
 of the appearantly vast conspiracy about how bad Frams suck)?  How many
 people have had a problem with ANY filter (that didn't say "El Cheapo
 Royale" on the box) made in the last fifteen years?
 
 Maybe the number is much higher than I imagine, but...if you change the
 thing every 3,000 miles, how bad could it get? >>

	I was thinking the same thing too..kind of. There is such a thing as 
carrying "better safe than sorry" too far. However, since the type of wear 
associated with poor oil filters would be slow to manifest itself (correct 
terminology?) by the time it happened, there would be no way to directly 
blame the filter. Really now, tell me how if an oil filter cost you a rebuild 
at say 75,000 miles, as opposed to 100,000 miles, could you narrow it down to 
the oil filter, and not the brand of oil, engine part quality, operating 
temp., etc? 
	But if a filter COULD cost me 25,000 miles of my motors life, and I 
was reasonably certain it could be prevented with a different same cost or 
slightly higher cost part, I am willing to switch, especially if there is 
some basis to avoid the part in question. I don't know why, and can't explain 
why, my 403 doesn't like straight 30 weight non detergent oil, but I'm 
reasonably certain it doesn't, so I'm not going to use it. : ) 
	 The same can be said about oil changes at 3000 or 6000 miles. If the 
engine fails at 6000 miles on the odometer, and you didn't change the oil, I 
guess you could narrow it down to the oil. But if the engine fails at 75000 
miles, and you had let the oil change interval lapse into the 4000-6000 mile 
interval a couple of times, how would it be possible to determine that the 
oil was the cause, and not something else? There are too many variables to 
determine a failure of the type I was describing, at least normal-wear wise. 
Yeah, this got a little long, and I'm a little bored : )  My thoughts anyway,
										
						Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 07:33:19 -0700
From: stephen minore <steven.minore@snet.net>
Subject: Re: flywheel 4-speed

retrorockets wrote:
> 
> Steve,
> 
> There's one on ebay but it's in California.  Wasn't there one at the Bristol
> swap meet along with that $40 10-bolt posi you bought?
> 
> Dude
> 
> stephen minore wrote:
> 
> > Hey guys,
> >
> > I am desperatly looking for a good used 4-speed flywheel for my 70
> > cutlass W-31. I put an ad on here some time ago and got one respose, but
> > that deal fell through my hands because I let a considerable time go
> > by!!!!
> > Now i am looking again.
> >
> > any help would be greatly appreciated,
> >
> > thanks!!!!!!
> >
> > Stephen Minore 70 W-31 FREAK!!!!!!!!


no Carl i didn't see it.  there really was one there???  I found that 70 
olds 4-speed shifter for $20 I thought that was the only deal at that 
swap meet.


steve 

70 w-31 freak!!!!!!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 07:36:05 -0700
From: stephen minore <steven.minore@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Parts Wanted.

Dr. Olds - K. Wood wrote:
> 
> Looking for A-body motor mount perches for
> a 455 motor.  Anybody got some?  Seems to
> me somebody somewhere was parting out an
> SX a while ago.  Can't remember who that was.
> 
> Also- anybody got a used Fluidampr Harmonic
> Balancer laying around and want to trade it for
> cash.  I see they cost a few hundred bucks new.  Considering it probably
> has nothing to
> do with the vibration I am trying to beat, I don't
> really want to pay full price for that one.
> 
> Any leads would be greatly appreciated.
> Thanks!
> 
> Kevin D. Wood
> Dr-Olds@webtv.netsorry Mr Wood,

 sold those things along time ago,

I am picking up a 70 442 for parts in about a week, I will let you know 
when i get it.

steve


p.s. I got you check yesterday, thanks!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 08:12:52 EDT
From: NUOLDSMAN@aol.com
Subject: Re: Sticky Sport Steering Wheels

Hi Fellow Listers,
     This solution is aimed more towards the single members of the list, but 
those with the more understanding or working wives may benefit from it too.  
Just take your sticky steering wheel off and run it through the dishwasher.  
Do not let it go through the dry cycle, however, as this will have adverse 
effects on your rubber hand grips.  Have used this method on several wheels 
and I can assure you it works on even the stickiest, gummiest, nastiest 
looking wheels.  These may take two washings to clean thoroughly.
Steve, the 72 Man
72 442
72 442 Convertible
72 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 08:24:40 EDT
From: RPTW32@aol.com
Subject: Re:  Re: Burnout RPM

Alot depends if your running slicks or street tires.
I run M/T sportsman Pro's (street tire) and usually go around the water., 
back up to front edge (Not all tracks like this) and then set line lock - put 
in drive and stab it to get em spinning. let upshift to 2nd and about that 
time tires are hazing and release line lock and walk out about 10 feet. Let 
off and bump into netural and rap a few times to clear the carb. Drop in 1st. 
and edge up to beams. Last yellow GO.

Rob Thomas
69 442 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 08:17:42 -0400
From: Brian Kerr <bkerr@golden.net>
Subject: New Addition

Our new son (our first) will be coming home by Oldsmobile this morning.
Jeffrey Aaron Kerr was born on Sunday May 2 @ 2:26 am. He and his mother
Beverley are doing well. I figure I'll have a wrench in his hands inside
of 6 months!

Brian and Beverley Kerr
Cambridge, Ontario
1969 Cutlass Conv
1986 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 07:42:04 -0500 
From: "Eichten, Brent" <Brent.Eichten@westgroup.com>
Subject: RE: Vibration Part 59

Kevin,

I had a similar problem on my 71 Cutlass Supreme when I got it.  I couldnt
tell where the vibration was coming from.  Brought it in for an alignment
and they found the culprit - the front bearings.

Good luck!

Brent 


Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 20:48:07 -0500 (CDT)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Dr. Olds - K. Wood)
Subject: Vibration Part 59

What a pain in the *ss.
The rear wheel bearing saved me a squeak but
still have the vibration.  Next I pulled off the front rotor on the
drivers side.  Broken wheel bearing.  Bearings all over the floor.  I
never heard a squeak, bump or grind in the front whatsoever.  I also
felt no vibration in the steering wheel ever either, so I am doubting
whether that has anything to do with it.

Eliminated:  Angularity due to long tail trans,
Rear wheels bearings, driveshaft, tires, rear-end, the trans itself...
Running out of ideas.  If the front wheels bearings don't do it,
I'm running out of ideas...

Any ideas?  I revved the engine up in first gear
to about 4000 rpms... No vibration-  Second gear- around 3500 I get a
little bit of a shake- 
Need to adjust timing and tune the carb a little-
does not seem to be any similar vibration as the
3300 rpm 75-80mph that I am trying to eliminate.

What's next???  Should I change the harmonic
balancer with another one I have and see if that
does anything?  I am really stumped here.

I hope to change all 4 front wheel bearings
in the next couple of days, and if that doesn't 
fix it I'm gonna part out the damn thing.  Anybody need 72 Cutlass
Supreme parts? almost everything is new now!  (Just kidding, please do
not send me parts wanted lists).
I will fix the problem if it's the last thing I do.

And it may be.

Kevin 
Dr-Olds@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 05:48:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fram, the Devil Filter? was: PH-11 or PH-25 in ANY Olds?

Interesting site. I had to go check it out to see what
they were saying about the Frams. I agree with Brian
on the fact that this guy "seems" to know what he is
talking about. However, I will swear by Fram. I run
them on everything I own. I use to use Champion but
they always tended to seize to the damn filter
adapter. I had one stick on my Honda so tight that I
needed to punch a screwdriver through it and turn it
with a filter wrench at the same time. (If you've ever
had to change a filter on a 86 Honda Accord, you know
how big of a b*tch this was!) I switched to Fram and
the problem disappeared. 

My dad works on a farm. Our tractors have thousands of
running hours on em. They work in that dust and mud
and the most grueling conditions around. Everything on
them are Fram. The fuel/oil/and coolant filters. We
stuck with the brand that works. Use to use Champion
and a few other brands (this was before I can
remember) and the Frams seemed to work the best.

Just my experience though.

Del
> 
> OK.  I agree with you that this guy is a) "very
> focused", shall we say, b)
> seems to have reasonable explanations as to why he
> likes/has no opinion
> on/hates certain filters, and c) appears to have
> done a lot of homework on
> the subject.  The E-mail from the Allied Signal guy
> is really just gravy
> (but TASTY gravy)...
> 
> BUT...how many people have really had a problem with
> Fram filters (or knew
> of the appearantly vast conspiracy about how bad
> Frams suck)?  How many
> people have had a problem with ANY filter (that
> didn't say "El Cheapo
> Royale" on the box) made in the last fifteen years?
> 
> Maybe the number is much higher than I imagine,
> but...if you change the
> thing every 3,000 miles, how bad could it get?
>
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
> MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
> 2903 Breeze Terrace   
> http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
> Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088
> (Austin)
>                                               (713)
> 776-2110 (Houston)
> 1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
> 	Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
> 		4-door
> "The Party Barge"
>
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> 

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 08:53:58 -0400 
From: "Meyer, Erich" <EMeyer@mdsctl.com>
Subject: RE: Lightning Rods

Thank you for the response. I will look at this and see if I can do this
with my friend.

Erich 84 H/O (350 OLD's)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 08:00:44 -0500 
From: "Eichten, Brent" <Brent.Eichten@westgroup.com>
Subject: Another Olds in the Family

After months of searching (and months of my wife begging), I finally bought
her an Olds of her own.  A brand new 1999 Silhouette GLS MINIVAN!!  I swore
I'd never do it, but with 2 kids in car seats it made the most sense.

On a more interesting note, my 1971 Cutlass Supreme has developed
self-healing powers!!  It was running terrible last fall when I put it in
storage.  It was hard starting and it would eventually die when idling.
When I got it out of storage this year, it still ran terrible.  I was able
to limp it home (about 5 miles) and parked it.  After sitting overnight, I
went out to work on it and it started right up and has ran perfectly since!
I've put on about 50 miles and its run perfectly!

Maybe my new purchase has pleased the Olds gods!

Brent Eichten
1971 Cutlass Supreme
1999 Silhouette GLS

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 09:06:07 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: drag race

hey, disconnecting the back brakes will also get you a better et...
_________

Disconnect?!  I assume you mean simply backing off on the self adjuster star
wheel.  You're right, however, in noting that any reduction in drag will help.
If the car has front drums back those off as well, but be sure to readjust
before driving home.  Also, unless you're running wrinkle wall tires, keep the
tires properly inflated (possibly even going on the high side for the fronts to
reduce rolling resistance).  A wheel alignment will also help reduce drag.

There's the obvious stuff like make sure the car is properly tuned up, air
filter is new (or removed), gas filter new, plug wires in good shape, etc.
Depending on your tires and rear axle, you will probably want to practice your
launch.  You want to minimize wheel spin while not bogging the motor.
Unfortunately there is no hard and fast rule on the proper launch RPM, as it
depends on weight, axle ratio, traction, etc.  Also, be aware that reaction 
time
can be as important as ET in heads-up racing.  This is not only the driver's
reaction time but also the car's reaction time - that is, the time between
mashing the pedal and forward motion of the car.  On a 0.500 tree you probably
want to leave when the second-to-last yellow comes on.   Depending on you and
your car, this may be cutting it close.

Oh, and as a last resort, add a nitrous kit...

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 07:13:38 -0600
From: "ed" <ed@techniflite.com>
Subject: Re: Another Olds in the Family

MINIVAN.....UGH!
I've had two car seats in my SX.  Not very easy, but my boys have always
enjoyed the throttle response.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Eichten, Brent <Brent.Eichten@westgroup.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 7:00 AM
Subject: Another Olds in the Family


> After months of searching (and months of my wife begging), I finally
bought
> her an Olds of her own.  A brand new 1999 Silhouette GLS MINIVAN!!  I
swore
> I'd never do it, but with 2 kids in car seats it made the most sense.
>
> On a more interesting note, my 1971 Cutlass Supreme has developed
> self-healing powers!!  It was running terrible last fall when I put it in
> storage.  It was hard starting and it would eventually die when idling.
> When I got it out of storage this year, it still ran terrible.  I was able
> to limp it home (about 5 miles) and parked it.  After sitting overnight, I
> went out to work on it and it started right up and has ran perfectly
since!
> I've put on about 50 miles and its run perfectly!
>
> Maybe my new purchase has pleased the Olds gods!
>
> Brent Eichten
> 1971 Cutlass Supreme
> 1999 Silhouette GLS
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 09:17:34 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: Body and frame shops

Of all the Albany's in the US, What one might you be referring to? Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

- -------------------------------------------------------------------
Like FREE Money? Just go to
http://alladvantage.com/go.asp?refid=AQE115
Members are paid for their own Web browsing
($.50 per Hour) and for referrals. Please tell all
of your friends about this program as possible.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Zitoj@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 2:31 PM
Subject: Body and frame shops


> I'm getting ready to move to the Albany area and plan to get my conv
> restored.  I plan to do all the skull work (stirpping, disassembly, POR 15
> painting, etc) and will need to find a shop to make sure my frame is
> straight, dip it and maybe galvanize or powder coat it.  I'll also need to
> find a body shop to do all the skill work on the body.
>
> Any suggestions?
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 08:30:13 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: FW: selling a 442

I received this from my homepage and thought I would pass it along. I know
there are a lot of people on the list looking for 442's. Remember I am just
passing this to the list, I have no connection with this sell.

Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the .... Past

- -----Original Message-----
From:	JHa7997413@aol.com <mailto:JHa7997413@aol.com>
[SMTP:JHa7997413@aol.com] <mailto:[SMTP:JHa7997413@aol.com]> 
Sent:	Sunday, May 02, 1999 6:13 PM
To:	Etzel, Bobby
Subject:	selling a 442

Hi Bobby I am selling a 1986 Olds 442 in mint condition if you know anyone 
with an intrest? My 86 442 is 100% original with 28,2600 miles and has been 
stored 8+ years  the car is a one owner me and is a 1997 and 1998 trophy 
winner  olds club of america show in MA. the 86 is 1 of 2300 made and is 
prefect conition never seen a winter never hit never touched as it came from

the factory Asking $15,500.00 if you can help me spread the word THANKS call

Wally 508-226-3479 Attleboro MA. or E/Mail me at jha7997413@aol.com
<mailto:jha7997413@aol.com> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 09:25:54 -0400
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: drag race

Ugh Ugh Ugh! More powerrrrrrrrrr!

- -----Original Message-----


>Oh, and as a last resort, add a nitrous kit...
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 09:40:33 -0500
From: Wyatt <Wyatt@jobax.net>
Subject: Re: New Addition

Congratulations Brian!
FWIW, I brought son #2 (aka Michael) home in my 4-4-2 and created an
Oldsmoholic.  He never shuts up about  Oldsmobiles and never misses seeing
one.

You have been warned.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 11:23:06 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: New Addition

Brian Kerr wrote:
> 
> Our new son (our first) will be coming home by Oldsmobile this morning.
> Jeffrey Aaron Kerr was born on Sunday May 2 @ 2:26 am. He and his mother
> Beverley are doing well. I figure I'll have a wrench in his hands inside
> of 6 months!

CONGRATS Brian and Beverley!!!!!

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
*************************
http://drive.to/73cutlass
- -----------------------
'73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
'70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
'75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
*************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 11:20:48 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: BMW Isetta performance parts (works on Q4, too...)

http://www.kormanfastbmw.com/isetta.htm

Joe (ducking stones and flaming arrows) Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 12:25:07 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: New Addition

Brian, congrats on the new addition! I know the list has been around for a
while now when I think back to you joining us when you were with BASF; 
then telling us about wanting to get the car ready for your wedding; 
reporting on all the work you did to get it ready; then leaving BASF; then
coming back at this address, then getting married, and now this. It's so
wonderful (sniff). ;-) 

Geez, I sound like an old geezer.... anyhow, a friend and Oldsaholic was
in a similar position a little over 2 years ago, and the first word the
kid (also named Jeffrey) said after "mommy" and "daddy" was "Cutlass". I
kid you not. The guilty party is on the list and can defend himself if he
wishes. :)

Congratulations again!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 10:30:26 -0500 
From: Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com
Subject: RE: Exhaust recommendations on a 72 Cutlass

Okay....does anyone know of a good muffler shop in the Dallas area??

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 10:27:58 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...

Gene

I never said that I believed them........but was a little put out about the
situation......KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 3:42 PM
Subject: Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...


> At 03:34 PM 5/3/99 -0500, you wrote:
> >On a similar note I once drove four hours to view a prospect 69 Hemi Dart
> >the price was about right for this beast but upon inspection it had a
318?
> >with what the owner said was a holley 4 bbl which looked suprisingly like
a
> >carter 2bbl? then when called on the carb he says they made em smaller
then?
> >then when I told him I didnt want the car for the asking price (i.e. NOT
AT
> >ALL) he says" well thats the price I know what I ve got!!!!!!" now what
do
> >you say at a time like this? I just shook my head and walked to the truck
> >and left incredible!!!! then there was a guy with a rare all original 68
442
> >W-30 I go look at it and it has a 396 in it no scoops headers 6 inch air
> >cleaner and it didnt run
> >had no 442 emblems on it also no paint just primer but the glovebos door
> >says cutlass S and the guy tells me that the w-30 option was a chevy
engine
> >and that all cutlass's were 442s well that is about it for my venting
G'day
> >Cheers.....KK
> >
> We'll if you believed those guys, then I know where there's a guy selling
> the only '73 Toronado ever made! :)
>
> >> Omega Man
> >> 2-74 Omegas
> >> 1 455 so far
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 17:24:22 +0200
From: Trond-Jarle Pedersen <olds69@online.no>
Subject: Re: BMW Isetta performance parts (works on Q4, too...)

> 
> Joe (ducking stones and flaming arrows) Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
> 

Well not from me :-)

Trond-Jarle Pedersen

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 10:31:05 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Windshield Pinchweld

Hmmmm Greg you got me thinking me and my cohorts here in KC might just come
up with that very thing will keep you posted...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 5:39 PM
Subject: Windshield Pinchweld


>
> Reading about the fellow who had a '68 with rust holes around the
> windshield pinchweld reminded me that just abut every older GM car I've
> seen has the same problem, at least the ones from rust belt. So I was
> wondering: does any supplier make a repair piece for this? Seems to me
> that even a generic pinchweld strip with trim stud clips prewelded, that a
> body shop could mold into place, might be a useful item.
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 11:34:55 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: BMW Isetta performance parts (works on Q4, too...)

Ha ha ha haaaaa. Does that come with a new hamster too? Or do you just have
to give the old hamster an extra vitamin.

Omega Man
'74 Omega S 455
'74 Omega  





At 11:20 AM 5/4/99 -0400, you wrote:
>http://www.kormanfastbmw.com/isetta.htm
>
>Joe (ducking stones and flaming arrows) Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 10:35:57 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: drag race

gotta jump in here leave the back brakes alone use premium pump gas with
104+ or NOS octane booster advance the timing a little at a time until you
get a better ET

P.S. Jet fuel is K1 kerosene and your car wont like it much it also has
combustion modifiers in it to raise the ignition temperature for ground
safety so dont put it in your gas tank!!!!!!!!!!!
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <QWKCUTLASS@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 9:27 PM
Subject: Re: drag race


> hey, disconnecting the back brakes will also get you a better et. in the
> quarter, just hope you have enought room to stop.  Av gas could help you
out,
> you can also run your timing a little higher than normal, i heard that
Olds
> run really weel with 34 to 35 degress advanced.  I wouldn't run that
timing
> without at least octane booster in the gas.  good luck friday
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 10:09 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: torsion-bar height adjustability (was Toro suspension travel

>Here's another crazy idea...With the torsion bars, you could
>theoretically adjust the height by simply twisting around the rear
>anchors for the bars. Keep in mind the halfshafts might start binding 
>if you adjust the height too much.  The're only designed to work 
>within a certain angle.
>
>Just a thought.
>
>Greg Pruett
____________________________________

Not a crazy idea at all, all the mid 50's to late 70's Mopars used a 
torsion-bar front suspension, and turning a single screw on the lower 
control arm alters the preload on the torsion bar, changing the ride 
height. It takes all of ten minutes to drop your front end an inch, or 
raise it if you're planning to go drag-racing. Back when I was solely 
a Mopar guy I always sniggered at the GM guys for having to 
disassemble half the front suspension and replace the spring to change 
the ride height, now I share your pain as I struggled all this last 
weekend with the front-end on my Supreme! (Question: How do you make 
the business end of a pickle-fork flow like silly putty? Answer: Buy a 
cheap Chinese-made one from AutoZone and use it to try and separate 
the balljoint from the spindle on a '72 Cutlass Supreme!)

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 11:42:01 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...

I know man. That was a joke :) 

Omega Man



At 10:27 AM 5/4/99 -0500, you wrote:
>Gene
>
>I never said that I believed them........but was a little put out about the
>situation......KK
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 3:42 PM
>Subject: Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...
>
>
>> At 03:34 PM 5/3/99 -0500, you wrote:
>> >On a similar note I once drove four hours to view a prospect 69 Hemi Dart
>> >the price was about right for this beast but upon inspection it had a
>318?
>> >with what the owner said was a holley 4 bbl which looked suprisingly like
>a
>> >carter 2bbl? then when called on the carb he says they made em smaller
>then?
>> >then when I told him I didnt want the car for the asking price (i.e. NOT
>AT
>> >ALL) he says" well thats the price I know what I ve got!!!!!!" now what
>do
>> >you say at a time like this? I just shook my head and walked to the truck
>> >and left incredible!!!! then there was a guy with a rare all original 68
>442
>> >W-30 I go look at it and it has a 396 in it no scoops headers 6 inch air
>> >cleaner and it didnt run
>> >had no 442 emblems on it also no paint just primer but the glovebos door
>> >says cutlass S and the guy tells me that the w-30 option was a chevy
>engine
>> >and that all cutlass's were 442s well that is about it for my venting
>G'day
>> >Cheers.....KK
>> >
>> We'll if you believed those guys, then I know where there's a guy selling
>> the only '73 Toronado ever made! :)
>>
>> >> Omega Man
>> >> 2-74 Omegas
>> >> 1 455 so far
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 11:39:00 -0400
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Mid-West listmembers in Tornado Zone

Hi all,

Posting this to wish my best to everyone that lives or has friends and
family out in Oklahoma, Kansas, etc.

I hope the tornados missed you and that ALL is well.

Take Care,
Randy (in PA)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 9:40 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: cracked exhaust manifold repair ("Pyro Putty")

A couple of days ago there was a thread about cracked exhaust 
manifolds and the high cost of repair. In the July '99 issue of Muscle 
Car Review, on page 92 there is an ad that reads as follows:

"Cracked manifolds don't have to be junk manifolds. Aremco's 
Pyro-Putty 2400 is a high-temperature ceramic-metallic sealant and 
metal-repair compound that can repair a cracked manifold and withstand 
temperatures up to 2000 degrees F. It can be used to repair cst-iron, 
steel, and stainless steel,. It cures at room temperature and in 
machineable and paintable. Contact Aremco Products, Dept. MCR, P.O. 
Box 429, Ossining, NY 10562-0429; email aremco@aremco.com."

Anybody on the list ever use this stuff?

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 10:47:00 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: BMW Isetta performance parts (works on Q4, too...)

WTFO   that is hilarious but how did you find oh master of the big
block?????
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Padavano.Joe@orbital.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 10:20 AM
Subject: BMW Isetta performance parts (works on Q4, too...)


> http://www.kormanfastbmw.com/isetta.htm
>
> Joe (ducking stones and flaming arrows) Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 69 442
> 70 W-30
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 11:00:05 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...

OOOOHHHHHHH!!!! Ok I get it now !!!!!!!!!!!
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 10:42 AM
Subject: Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...


> I know man. That was a joke :)
>
> Omega Man
>
>
>
> At 10:27 AM 5/4/99 -0500, you wrote:
> >Gene
> >
> >I never said that I believed them........but was a little put out about
the
> >situation......KK
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
> >To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> >Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 3:42 PM
> >Subject: Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...
> >
> >
> >> At 03:34 PM 5/3/99 -0500, you wrote:
> >> >On a similar note I once drove four hours to view a prospect 69 Hemi
Dart
> >> >the price was about right for this beast but upon inspection it had a
> >318?
> >> >with what the owner said was a holley 4 bbl which looked suprisingly
like
> >a
> >> >carter 2bbl? then when called on the carb he says they made em smaller
> >then?
> >> >then when I told him I didnt want the car for the asking price (i.e.
NOT
> >AT
> >> >ALL) he says" well thats the price I know what I ve got!!!!!!" now
what
> >do
> >> >you say at a time like this? I just shook my head and walked to the
truck
> >> >and left incredible!!!! then there was a guy with a rare all original
68
> >442
> >> >W-30 I go look at it and it has a 396 in it no scoops headers 6 inch
air
> >> >cleaner and it didnt run
> >> >had no 442 emblems on it also no paint just primer but the glovebos
door
> >> >says cutlass S and the guy tells me that the w-30 option was a chevy
> >engine
> >> >and that all cutlass's were 442s well that is about it for my venting
> >G'day
> >> >Cheers.....KK
> >> >
> >> We'll if you believed those guys, then I know where there's a guy
selling
> >> the only '73 Toronado ever made! :)
> >>
> >> >> Omega Man
> >> >> 2-74 Omegas
> >> >> 1 455 so far
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 11:07:41 -0500 
From: Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com
Subject: RE: Mid-West listmembers in Tornado Zone

FYI - We are in Dallas (not too far away) so if anyone needs help
.....let us know.....and we'll do what we can!!!

Mickey & Bobby

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	RANDY A GEISEL [SMTP:RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net]
> Sent:	Tuesday, May 04, 1999 10:39 AM
> To:	Olds
> Subject:	Mid-West listmembers in Tornado Zone
> 
> Hi all,
> 
> Posting this to wish my best to everyone that lives or has friends and
> family out in Oklahoma, Kansas, etc.
> 
> I hope the tornados missed you and that ALL is well.
> 
> Take Care,
> Randy (in PA)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 12:23:35 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: toro suspension travel

Hey, I have this crazy idea to take a toro front end and slap it onto the
back of a dune buggy...
_____

Funny you should mention this, as there is just such a vehicle floating around
the Northern Virginia area.  I was a a cruise night a year or so ago and 
spotted
the front of a sand rail frame parked in among the other cars.  Didn't give it
much thought until I walked around the other side of that row of cars and saw
that the anticipated VW motor was actually a Toro drive!  The engine is "only" 
a
small block, despite the liberal use of 455 metallic blue paint, and the
installation could use a good cleaning up (let's just say it wasn't as sanitary
as it could be).  I've since seen the vehicle on the street in rush hour
traffic, so it does run somewhat reliably.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 12:25:24 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: BMW Isetta performance parts (works on Q4, too...)

WTFO   that is hilarious but how did you find oh master of the big
block?????
________

The URL was sent to me by a friend (who apparently has some time on his hands 
at
work).  I did mention to him that a hundred years ago when I was in high school
the local speed shop had a similar VW engine rebuilding kit on a bubble pack
card, so the idea isn't new.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 12:37:02 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Never throw anything away!

Yes, the pack-rat method has been validated!

But, to begin at the beginning.....

Karl was born a poor black child in the Wiscilliana territories....

Whoops, too far back.

Karl been doing the timing thing recently, but not got proper light.
The Sears hardware outlet was out of lights that have the timing advance 
feature.

So, as the trip to work is largely highway miles and no real lunch break to 
speak of,
he's been tweaking at the final timing only at the beginning of trips as it 
is kinda tough to pull over on the highway to re-tweak.
Plenty room on shoulder, he just cannot get his foot off of the accellerator.
Try as he mightn't.

So yesterday morn, as he was about to leave the workplace, he procures the 
socket wrench with various extentions and tweaks the timing some.

As he is withdrawing the socket wrench, he distinctly hears a "pop" and 
interesting sounds from the distributor. A fast clicking noise.
And the idle suddenly sucks.
Noticeable but random missing is involved.

Retarding the timing to where it had been does little to improve the 
situation, though the idle is a little better. And still missing.

Not prepared for intensive maintenance at the moment, he opts to drive home, 
engine nearly dying while stopped at a traffic light. He made two stops en 
route, and starting was OK.

So, Karl says to hisself, (he says) "Hmmmm. Mebbe the wrench caused summat to 
arc to the dist. Fortunately I gots a spare cap/rotor/points at home....'

If he does, he dint find them.
DOH!

But he did find the cap and rotor that came on SOM at purchase.
In the Accel box that the replacement came in and that he believed contained 
a spare (new) cap & rotor.

So then he grabs these and goes out and lifts cap off dist.
A visual examination shows nothing wrong with the cap.
No signs of carbon-tracking.
Nothing.

About to replace same cap, he notices a bit of brown plastic just lying next 
to the breaker points on the dist.

He did not recall damaging anything.....
He re-inspects the cap looking for a spot where the plastic bit might have 
come from.....no...did not see a likely donor area...
Then he spots it.

The rotor was broken.

A single rivet (or whatever) holds the contact for the central electrode and 
the brass peice that contacts the outer electrodes (different metals in order 
to provide positive pressure (spring) where the central electrode is 
concerned). Since only one rivet holds these two against the 
plastic/polymer/phenolic/whatever rotor body, they would be free to rotate if 
not secured by two "nubs", one on each side of the brass bit.

So the nub had broken off and the brass contact (3/4" long between rivet and 
buisiness end) had rotated some 30' from where it ought to have been.

DOH!

Rats, gotta put the likely-to-be-factory-original cap back on.

Wait!
Wasn't there another possibility?
Did he leave the real "spare" cap in the trunk.
No, not there.
Behind the 2.73:1 open "rear end", next to the tool box, under the oilly rag.
That's it, that lump there.
That is the Accel set that replaced the original cap & rotor!
Karl could use that rotor!

But it is filthy.

So, a cleanup, a points swap (did find spare points), an old old rotor and 
old cap and some dwell adjustment later, and SOM is back on the road.

And this time its personal!

But Karl is back to tweaking the timing.....

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 12:45:27 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fram, the Devil Filter? was: PH-11 or PH-25 in ANY Olds?

In a message dated 99-05-04 08:48:48 EDT, you write:

<< However, I will swear by Fram. >>

Er...
Uh....

Karl not meant flame Fram.

Just intended condemn usage of PFTE, ~solid~ material, as engine lubricant.

Oil is changed to remove solid matter from engine.

Why should someone put solids in intentionally?

Prolly just a marketing thing to get money from people who watch infomercials 
and use the Prolong system in their cars.

Prolong is not properly named.

SOM

&KA  <--- Installing a device on the TV to prevent watching of infomercials.
           The TV sends a signal to a professional.

           Who comes over to slap Karl around properly.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 04 May 1999 13:12:38 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: drag race

Kerry Kroger wrote:

Snipping a bit here....

> P.S. Jet fuel is K1 kerosene and your car wont like it much it 

> From: <QWKCUTLASS@aol.com>

> > Snipping again...... Av gas could help you
> out,

I think he is referring to the higher octane av gas and not the jet
fuel.  It is a common misconception that jet fuel is better (for lack of
a better word) tha pump gas.  Yes it is kerosene, but there is an av gas
that has a higher octane rating than normal pump gas.  I have a friend
of mine that used to drive his "other brand hipo muscle car" to the
local airport and fill up his tank.  Of course at 6-8 mpg, with the
airport about 20 miles away he never got home with a full tank.   As I
remember there used to be two octane ratings for av gas, but it's been
so long ago that I would be afraid to state that is still the truth. 
And with airplane motors still running from 40-50+ years, I would think
it is probably still available.  I used to work for a fixed base
operator in the early 70s for a while, so I remember some of this but
not all of the details.  Maybe some of the pilots/airplane maintenance
people on the list can fill us in.  As I understand the filling up of an
automobile with av gas is somewhat illegal as there are no federal
highway usage taxes collected on it.  Gotta pay the feds and state, I
guess.  But then the avoidance of paying taxes as much as LEGALLY
POSSIBLE is why I am still in business.  (Thought I had better throw
that in so no one things I advocate evasion, which is a whole different
topic.)

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1940
*********************************

