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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1912


oldsmobile-digest       Monday, April 19 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1912



Starting problems
Re: Starting problems
Re: need console insert panel ...
Re: R-12 to R-134 conversion
Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?
RE: mew member
Re: manifolds
Trunk Panel "silvery" trim
Re: 350/455 motor mounts
Re: junkyards dot com
Re: need console insert panel ...
Re: Trunk Panel "silvery" trim
Regal GN List
Re: Yellow paint on a 442?
Re: O.D. vs 3 speed PROMS - '84 Delta
Re: Yellow Paint
Re: Steel Rim Torque
Private message, non Olds
Assembly Manuals
Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?
Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?
Re: Did you see that 67 "442" !!!
ac condensers
Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?
Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries? ad lib
Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?
Re: Trunk Panel "silvery" trim
Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?
Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?
Re: Did you see that 67 "442" !!!
Re: Assembly Manuals
Re: Did you see that 67 "442" !!!
owner's manual 87 442
Re: Console Lock Retainer
Re: owner's manual 87 442
Re: R-12 to R-134 conversion
Re: R-12 to R-134 conversion
Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?
Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?
Re: owner's manual 87 442
Re: Regal GN List
Re: R-12 to R-134 conversion
Re: Trunk Panel "silvery" trim
Re: Primer...
Re: Did you see that 67 "442" !!!(more)
Primer question & door hinges
Re: bushings
Re: Did you see that 67 "442" !!!(more)
NON CCC carb needed
Re: updating your olds anyone put 17's on 70-72 yet???
11.46 was oil restric...
Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?
Re: Vette Brakes wheel spacers..(was 17" wheels)
Re: updating your olds anyone put 17's on 70-72 yet???
Re: Primer question & door hinges
Re: Starting problems
New freon (was R-12 to R-134)
Re: Starting problems
FS: 75 H/O
The Unoffical Rochester Carburetor Web Site: Next carb problem--no secondaries?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 18:51:35 -0400
From: Scott Parker <sparker442@banet.net>
Subject: Starting problems

Since the neutral safety switch was mentioned, 'thought I'd describe my
situation.  Although I have a floor shifter in my 71 442, I still find
that I need to twist the collar on the column counter-clockwise slightly
before it will start.  It's kind of a built-in theft deterrant that
really pi**es peole off when I drop it at their shop and forget to tell
them about it.  Is this normal or could it mean that my car was once
converted from a column shifter?

Scott Parker
71 442 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 18:10:31 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Starting problems

Scott;
Not adjusted right, where I live I would leave it that way, keeps you from
walking home.
Lou

You wrote
Since the neutral safety switch was mentioned, 'thought I'd describe my
> situation.  Although I have a floor shifter in my 71 442, I still find
> that I need to twist the collar on the column counter-clockwise slightly
> before it will start.  It's kind of a built-in theft deterrant that
> really pi**es peole off when I drop it at their shop and forget to tell
> them about it.  Is this normal or could it mean that my car was once
> converted from a column shifter?
> 
> Scott Parker
> 71 442 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 18:23:32 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: need console insert panel ...

>
>List,
>
>        Does anyone make the aluminum insert
>panel for the 67-68 auto consoles ?  I have seen
>the wood grain panels for the later cars but nothing
>for the 67's...
>
>
>Tanks
>The General


General,
Did you ever get any leads on finding this insert?  I
need one for my 68 and was wondering if you had
any luck.  I believe they were used in 69 also as
Chris Smenta's 69 W31 has the same console
as my 68 but mines a Jetaway and his is TH.  I
think it's the same chrome piece w/insert though.
TIA

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 18:26:53 -0500
From: "72Hurst" <72hurst@net-email.com>
Subject: Re: R-12 to R-134 conversion

> Mike;
> Used to teach auto a/cond, we didn't touch R-22. This is not gospel but I
> believe 22 requires more high side pressures than 12. I know absolutely
> nothing about heat transfer values/ or expansion values of one Vs the
> other. A really good a/c engineer should know. Or it may the be inverse of
> what I am saying. Didn't study 22, really don't

>except it can lock up the
> compressor, or so they have told me. Wish I knew more.
> Lou

I have a good friend who also happens to be a good mechanic, and he has told
me of a personal experience trying to use R22 in a R12 system. It does lock
up the compressor, I'm no expert as to why, but from his experience, I
definitely would not try to use R22 in a R12 system.
My $.02

John
72hurst@net-email.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 19:31:25 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?

I think it sounds like he was standing still with hood open reving it. I
don't believe the secondaries will open without being under load, right?
Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 1999 6:46 PM
Subject: Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?


> Nik'
> Only under a load on the engine, not revving it sitting still while you
> watch. You would need a see though hood to see it working, but you can
tell
> by the kick in the butt while driving it, plus it sounds different, should
> get a little howl from the engine sucking in the air.
> Lou
>
> ----------
> > From: Nikolaj Richers <nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca>
> > To: Oldsmobile List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > Subject: Next carb problem--no secondaries?
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 19:41:25 -0400
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: mew member

yeah, an Aurora!  Nice!  Love that!
yeah, a 442 W30!  Nice!  Love that!
welcome



Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 3.8 Calais
Bucks County, PA
mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Mike McLeod
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 1999 6:19 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: mew member


Hi, wanted to introduce myself, just joined the list after purchasing my
car. Have enjoyed reading the mail.

Mike McLeod
1970 442 W-30
1997 Aurora

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 19:47:36 EDT
From: Harrell17@aol.com
Subject: Re: manifolds

I think I'm in the same boat. The manifolds that came with my 455 were out of 
a 72 Ninety eight and they are real close to the frame and sit higher so my 
exhaust doesn't fit now. I'm not sure what to look for. I know there are 
different codes for manifolds but I haven't found which to ask for. Got any 
ideas? Jim

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 19:55:56 -0400
From: Tom Voltaggio <tvoltagg@voicenet.com>
Subject: Trunk Panel "silvery" trim

I have a 96 Cutlass Supreme and the "silvery" trim on the trunk panel
has disintegrated.  Is this something
that is covered under the warranty?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 19:57:45 EDT
From: Harrell17@aol.com
Subject: Re: 350/455 motor mounts

I'm putting a 455/ 400 in a 72 Cutlass in place of a 350/350, been quite a 
project. Anyway the 455 mounts are probable an inch or so taller. I'm putting 
the 350 mounts in because I need mine a little lower. Good luck. Jim

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 20:00:27 EDT
From: Harrell17@aol.com
Subject: Re: junkyards dot com

If you get a lead on the "Junkyard.com" let me know would you. Thanks, Jim

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 21:09:06 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: need console insert panel ...

On Sun, 18 Apr 1999, Mike Bloomer wrote:
> Did you ever get any leads on finding this insert?  I
> need one for my 68 and was wondering if you had
> any luck.

I wish someone would repro the aluminum faceplate for the '68 8-track...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 20:11:28 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Trunk Panel "silvery" trim

Tom Voltaggio wrote:
> 
> I have a 96 Cutlass Supreme and the "silvery" trim on the trunk panel
> has disintegrated.  Is this something
> that is covered under the warranty?

Should be, depending on the in service date and current mileage. 
Contact your local dealer.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 20:17:55 EDT
From: Biscayne2d@aol.com
Subject: Regal GN List

Can Someone on here please tell me what I need to do to get on yo the Buick 
list? I havent been able to find or figure out how to get on it. Please help

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 20:28:09 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Yellow paint on a 442?

Mike Bloomer wrote:
>  
> What about Bamboo?  Does that classify as a yellow?

See my post from yesterday.

> My 72 S
> came from the factory with that color and still had the original
> paint on it when I got it.  
> 
> There's pics of the 72 on my page.
> http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

Nice car, but it still looks "Honey Beige" to me.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 20:36:40 -0400
From: Miguel Morales <Mike.Morales@wcom.com>
Subject: Re: O.D. vs 3 speed PROMS - '84 Delta

Yes the air pump is kind a loud, especially when the 'dump' hose falls of the 
air cleaner.
What I've heard is you risk letting the pump seize through non-use (sitting 
idle) if you
disconnect it. Having the hose hooked up to the catalytic converter is also a 
source of
noise and that's where most of the engine-warm operation is. I've passed the 
smog test with
this hose clamped off, but the pass thresholds have gotten tougher recently 
here near D.C.
The H/O came with smog heads that are activated only when the engine is cold, 
but, having a
broken smog pipe assembly leading to the head can cause a rich condition 
because the
computer compensates for the xtra air going in. In the case of your tranny, 
the lock up is
probably controlled by Throttle position and a speed sensor which BTW, I have 
for sale.
It's the optical type in a little green plastic box with the pigtail that 
bolts on to the
spedo with a small screw.

BTW

Parts I still have for sale are:

 1. Lockup Solenoid. for 200 - 4R
 2. Behing dash Vehicle Speed Sensor.
 3. Temperature TVS switch Hurst/Olds for Code 14-15 not sure which. Definitely
     not for temperature gauge.
 4. **Sold** Chiltons Green Book for the Olds Cutlass RWD 1 1/2" thick.
 5. Several Journey with Olds magazines.
 6. **Sold** Used EGR Valve '84 Hurst/Olds , still good
 7. **Sold** Used EGR Solenoid '84 Hurst/Olds, still good
 8. Some dash parts like gauge light sockets with bulbs for '84 H/O dash.
 9. **Sold** New factory '84 307CID Vin '9' Hurst/Olds PROM Chip
10.**Sold** H/O Rims
12. Two H/O Owner's Manuals one is a green stereo accessories folder and the 
other is an
operator's manual(red/black)



Andrew Conkey wrote:

> Mike,
>
> Doh, I just posted again to the list, but re-read your info below
> after... (I am posting this to the list - in case anyone is interested).
>
> You say exactly what I was hoping - that there are (hopefully)
> *unused* connectors on my existing computer. I would think so for
> reasons of economy when olds built the thing that they would just
> use a 'generic' computer and hookup the different trannys as
> required. The extra sensor in the OD tranny would explain the extra
> connection I have heard about on the OD trans. The 3 speed only
> has one - and it's a 'dumb' connection that the computer controls
> lockup with. (The 3-speed *does* have lock-up) The trans doesn't
> 'care', nor give feedback to the computer, which is what
> (apparently) the OD trans *does* do.
>
> Thanks for the reply, yours is the first real explaination I have to
> date on the different hookups between the 3 speed and the OD
> trans, and I have been researching this thing for almost a year! I
> thought my th200-c was toast last summer. Took it to the shop
> and they said - 'yep - toast'.... That was 6 mos ago and its been
> fine since after changing only the fluid - my guess is some junk
> was getting stuck in the governer. I figure I will drive it until it really
> is dead, at which time I will swap out the rearend as well.
>
> And yes, mine came with the flippin' AIR pump. That about drives
> me insane. It really dampens the quiet-cruiser-boat effect when that
> thing kicks in: 'ppppzzzzzzzzzzZZZZZZZZZ'.  I'd disconnect it in a
> minute if I knew it wouldn't screw up anything else. I can't believe
> they couldn't make it quieter, unless mine's defective. It sounds
> like they all do that though...
>
> Well, thanks again for the info, and feel free to forward any other
> useful info you may have...
>
> ...Andrew
>
> Date sent:              Sat, 17 Apr 1999 10:26:10 -0400
> From:                   Miguel Morales <Mike.Morales@wcom.com>
> Organization:           MCIWorldcom
> To:                     Andrew Conkey <andrewc@novell.uidaho.edu>
> Subject:                Re: vin 9 PROM chip
>
> > The chip basically only works with the tranny, by locking up the 
converter, which you
> > obviously don;t have. The lock-up circuit is pretty basic on these models 
too. The
> > pressure sender switch inside the tranny senses the 4th clutch engaging 
and signals
> > to the computer to ground the other pin attached to the Tranny solenoid. 
These are
> > two pins that are probably unsused on your computer. They may have wires 
or they may
> > not but they are not going anywhere. Also controlled by the PROM are the 
EGR
> > solenoid, Purge Solenoid and Mixture Control--(M-C) solenoid, and 
AIR-system. Did
> > your car come with a AIR pump too?
> >
> > Thanks for the interest,
> > Mike
> >

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 20:40:47 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Yellow Paint

Mountney, Scott wrote:
> 
> Paul (Hartlieb), no dont worry about getting me worked up, I was totally
> wrong and have no problem admitting it!!!

Well, now, I don't know that you were totally wrong.  Maybe we're both
partially right?

>  My car is the same as the one in this picture here.     This car is
> beautiful, but I prefer a black top or black vinyl.
> http://www.442.com/nabung.html
> My car is paint code 56, I checked.

This car is a twin to mine, right down to the bumper guards.  Well, OK,
mine has wire wheel covers.  Oh, and I don't have a 455, but mine is the
spitting image of his.

> However, I still think people could
> get two yellows in 72.

Maybe they could.  Depends on where yellow stops and beige begins.  That
can be a gray area. Ha ha.

> I have seen many coupes in the rally 350 color.
> I haven't checked their paint code but people tell me it is the original
> color, which always made me wonder.

Maybe they were '70s?

> By the way,could this be a result of poor GM records or the ability to order
> a color?     

Well, I've seen at least 2 '72 Cutlass convertible that are factory
painted black (verified the trim plate).  Black was not an intermediate
color in '72.  But these were the days when you could pay extra to have
a car painted a non-standard color.

> In addition, same goes
> with the hoods.    71 hoods have vents, 72s do not.     I have seen late 71s
> that have both types of hoods. 

Hood vents depend on what model the car is.  '72 Cutlass Supremes didn't
get vents, Cutlass Ss did, unless the Supreme was a 442, then it got the
vents, 'cause all 442s had vents, unless they had the optional ram air
hood.  Get it?  I don't know how the guys putting these cars together
managed to get them right with all the variations that were available! 
My buddy's '72 Cutlass S has hood vents.  He's the original owner and
they've been there the whole time.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 20:41:23 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Steel Rim Torque

Peter Landowski wrote:
> 
> Anyone know what the torque specifications for 72 442 with steel rims? I
> believe it was 80 ft lbs.
> Pettrix@prodigy.net

Peter,

I just torqued mine today, so as not to warp the front rotors.  80 is
correct.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 20:10:25 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Private message, non Olds

I sorry to tie up bandwidth but I lost the name.
 
Whoever is friends with Tom Palasty in Mich., who was getting me the 75
grille, please tell him I finally canceled the check, it's been since Oct
and I doubt he will come though now, tell him thanks but no thanks.
Appreciate your help though, really
Lou (Master) Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
oca#31353
PS Sorry but I lost your file.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 21:14:49 -0400
From: "Robert Collins" <collins@peterboro.net>
Subject: Assembly Manuals

Evening All

Can anyone on the list give me some feed back on the Assembly Manuals that
are available thru Fusick, Year One, etc.
I am considering purchasing one to augment the Chassis Service Manual and
Body by Fisher Manual I have for my 65 Cutlass.
I am open to suggestions as to what books I should have when I begin my
restoration this fall.

TIA

Robert Collins
collins@peterboro.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 18:10:42 -0700
From: "Andrew Conkey" <andrewc@novell.uidaho.edu>
Subject: Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?

I wouldn't exactly call it a 'kick in the butt' on a 307 delta 88, but I 
have my aircleaner flipped over in the summer. There's no mistake - 
I KNOW when the secondaries open up! You might want to try that 
- - or temporarily take of the aircleaner. (I had to unscrew the stud a 
couple turns to get clearance, but it still works o.k.) That throaty 
cop car sound is unmistakeable....

From:           	"Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
To:             	<oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject:        	Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?
Date sent:      	Sun, 18 Apr 1999 17:46:13 -0500
Send reply to:  	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

> Nik'
> Only under a load on the engine, not revving it sitting still while you
> watch. You would need a see though hood to see it working, but you can tell
> by the kick in the butt while driving it, plus it sounds different, should
> get a little howl from the engine sucking in the air.
> Lou 
> 
> ----------
> > From: Nikolaj Richers <nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca>
> > To: Oldsmobile List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > Subject: Next carb problem--no secondaries?
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 20:18:15 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?

Gary;
The hemi dart wouldn't open the Hollys sitting and looking under the hood,
only on the dyno. Revved it full throttle to 7 grand, secondaries would not
open, and this was with damn weak secondary springs.
Lou
 
- ----------
> From: gjcouse <gjcouse@francomm.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?
> Date: Sunday, April 18, 1999 6:31 PM
> 
> I think it sounds like he was standing still with hood open reving it. I
> don't believe the secondaries will open without being under load, right?
> Gary....

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 21:17:31 EDT
From: Oldsmobeav@aol.com
Subject: Re: Did you see that 67 "442" !!!

It was red,rear out in the diner from the front shot.
It was sitting next to something that I only know wasnt an olds.
67 was a very unigue tailight and rear 1/4, coming from 64-6 to the 68 model?
easy to spot in other words.
I was thinking the same thing harry

On the olds prowl, looking for any sighting possible.
steve
37 bus coupe
65 f85 deluxe 2dr sedan

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 21:18:26 EDT
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: ac condensers

does anyone know if a radiator shop can weld a hole shut in my ac condenser?  
i went to the junk yard today and couldn't find one.  i just got all the 
hoses to put ac back in my car when i find this hole in the condenser.  oh 
well...i guess i won't have cold air for a little longer.

mikeytvb@aol.com
70 442 hc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 20:21:22 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?

Andrew;
Literary license only.
Lou

- ----------
> From: Andrew Conkey <andrewc@novell.uidaho.edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?
> Date: Sunday, April 18, 1999 8:10 PM
> 
> I wouldn't exactly call it a 'kick in the butt' on a 307 delta 88, but I 
> have my aircleaner flipped over in the summer. There's no mistake - 
> I KNOW when the secondaries open up! You might want to try that 
> - or temporarily take of the aircleaner. (I had to unscrew the stud a 
> couple turns to get clearance, but it still works o.k.) That throaty 
> cop car sound is unmistakeable....

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 20:30:25 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries? ad lib

Andrew;
the 75 350 sounds the same but you can feel a small boost in the behind,
the 67 442 400 howls when you nail it, sounds like the hood insulation is
being sucked though the carb.
Lou
> > From: Andrew Conkey <andrewc@novell.uidaho.edu>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?
> > I wouldn't exactly call it a 'kick in the butt' on a 307 delta 88, but
I 
> > have my aircleaner flipped over in the summer. There's no mistake - 
> > I KNOW when the secondaries open up! You might want to try that 
> > - or temporarily take of the aircleaner. (I had to unscrew the stud a 
> > couple turns to get clearance, but it still works o.k.) That throaty 
> > cop car sound is unmistakeable....

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 21:41:09 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?

That's what I meant Lou, The wording and tone of the other gentleman post
led ME to believe that he was referring to a visual failure of the
secondaries opening.
Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 1999 9:18 PM
Subject: Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?


> Gary;
> The hemi dart wouldn't open the Hollys sitting and looking under the hood,
> only on the dyno. Revved it full throttle to 7 grand, secondaries would
not
> open, and this was with damn weak secondary springs.
> Lou
>
> ----------
> > From: gjcouse <gjcouse@francomm.com>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?
> > Date: Sunday, April 18, 1999 6:31 PM
> >
> > I think it sounds like he was standing still with hood open reving it. I
> > don't believe the secondaries will open without being under load, right?
> > Gary....
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 22:01:48 EDT
From: S61starfir@aol.com
Subject: Re: Trunk Panel "silvery" trim

In a message dated 4/18/99 7:57:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
tvoltagg@voicenet.com writes:

<< 
 I have a 96 Cutlass Supreme and the "silvery" trim on the trunk panel
 has disintegrated.  Is this something
 that is covered under the warranty?
 
  >>
   Those cars are covered for 3yr 36,000 mile bumber to bumper, how many 
miles do you have, check with your dealer

Everett  OCA# 1961  1961 Starfire  Antiqolds@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 22:07:34 -0400
From: Nikolaj Richers <nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca>
Subject: Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?

Gary wrote:
> I think it sounds like he was standing still with hood open reving it. I
> don't believe the secondaries will open without being under load, right?

Correct. Just as Lou and Dorian wrote, I was standing over the car
whilst it was sitting in our parking spot. I guess that answers one
question: the secondaries shouldn't have opened. They didn't. 

What got me thinking about this was my previously lost fast idle and the
fact that the car seems to accelerate almost better part throttle than
full throttle (no bog, just lousy pick-up) and seems to take a long time
winding up to even four grand on the on-ramp on the freeway. I starts,
idles and runs great, just not the kind of greatness that translates
into forward movement.

The AV opens max to about 2/3 to 3/4 thanks to a little tab, which I
could snip off, but I understand that I'd have to re-jet the
secondaries. The air cleaner assembly also looks _very_
restrictive--I'll have to fabricate a second snorkel and plumb it
outside once I have some time off to get creative with the tin snips.

Thanks for letting me know what kind of sound secondaries make! I'll
have to try and flip the air cleaner lid and go for an, er, exploratory
drive. I live literally right next to the police headquarters in
Toronto, as in our building shares a wall with theirs. At least I no
longer howl past them with a noisy Flowmaster exhaust in second gear,
just to turn right at the last minute to disappear into our underground
parking. I do miss the Flowmaster sound, though.

Thanks to all that responded!

	Nikolaj

- -- 
Nikolaj Richers, Toronto, Canada; nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 22:24:12 -0400
From: Nikolaj Richers <nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca>
Subject: Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?

Andrew Conkey wrote:
> I wouldn't exactly call it a 'kick in the butt' on a 307 delta 88, but I
> have my aircleaner flipped over in the summer. There's no mistake -
> I KNOW when the secondaries open up! You might want to try that
> - or temporarily take of the aircleaner. (I had to unscrew the stud a
> couple turns to get clearance, but it still works o.k.) That throaty
> cop car sound is unmistakeable....

That's funny. I was just thinking about doing just that, until I get the
time to open up the snorkel and/or add a second one. Classic poor man's
mod. ;-)

Speaking of kick in the posterior 307 4bbl, I was thinking about a cam
change after making sure I know how to tune a carb, checking the timing,
and getting the air cleaner assembly opened up. I.e. after all the free
or nearly free mods, being a new dad and all. Not to win races, just to
help this barge move along.

Has anyone tried one of the Lunati cams , 214/224 @ .050", listed in the
Summit catalogue? They come with lifters, but it looks like a pretty
good deal for another forty or so horse. My heads are the 6A ones,
apparently not great, but the ports on the intake manifold gasket I have
look a decent size.

Why do the 140 horse VIN Y put out the same torque as a VIN 9, even
though they are 40 horse apart? 

	Nikolaj

- -- 
Nikolaj Richers, Toronto, Canada; nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 21:25:10 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Did you see that 67 "442" !!!

>It was red,rear out in the diner from the front shot.
>It was sitting next to something that I only know wasnt an olds.
>67 was a very unigue tailight and rear 1/4, coming from 64-6 to the 68
model?
>easy to spot in other words.
>I was thinking the same thing harry
>
>On the olds prowl, looking for any sighting possible.
>steve
>37 bus coupe
>65 f85 deluxe 2dr sedan


It was sitting next to a maverick and you guys need to watch more races.
The same commercial debuted at the end of last season.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 22:38:01 -0400
From: "RC Hellebuyck" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Assembly Manuals

I recommend you get at least an assembly and chassis service manual.  My car
is complete, but I still use both when I check how hoses are ran etc...
They are a very affordable and necessary tool which will save you time and
frustration!  Particularly for a restore!

Since your restoring your car and already spending mucho $$$, spend just a
little more and get all 3 main reference books:  Chassis Service Manual,
Assembly Manual, and Fisher Body Manual.  Once you find them you should be
able to pick up all 3 for $75 - $100

RC Hellebuyck  -  OCA #30213
1971 4-4-2 convt
See my car and over 40 other Olds' at:
http://home.sprynet.com/~mrhell/oakbud.htm



>I am open to suggestions as to what books I should have when I begin my
>restoration this fall.
>
>TIA
>
>Robert Collins
>collins@peterboro.net
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 22:42:16 EDT
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: Did you see that 67 "442" !!!

67 Oldsmobiles RULE !!!!!!!!   :)

 Bernie :)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 23:00:31 -0400
From: Daniel Hall <cdhall@cwix.com>
Subject: owner's manual 87 442

Hi ,
   Does anybody know where I can locate an owner's manual for a 87 442?

Thanks
  Daniel Hall
  cdhall@cwix.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 23:11:01 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Console Lock Retainer

In a message dated 4/17/99 5:54:51 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
drolds350@webtv.net writes:

<< I am in need of the lock retainer for a 70-72 console. Mine is missing.
 Anyone have one?
  >>

Gee, this must be the day for console lock retainers.  I'm need one for my 
69, it broke today.  Anyone have one of these??

Thanks

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 23:12:59 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: owner's manual 87 442

In a message dated 4/18/99 10:59:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time, cdhall@CWIX.com 
writes:

<< Does anybody know where I can locate an owner's manual for a 87 442? >>

Look for one at Carlisle next week, if you're going

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 23:33:28 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: R-12 to R-134 conversion

72Hurst wrote:
> 
> > Mike;
> > Used to teach auto a/cond, we didn't touch R-22. This is not gospel but I
> > believe 22 requires more high side pressures than 12. I know absolutely
> > nothing about heat transfer values/ or expansion values of one Vs the
> > other. A really good a/c engineer should know. Or it may the be inverse of
> > what I am saying. Didn't study 22, really don't
> 
> >except it can lock up the
> > compressor, or so they have told me. Wish I knew more.
> > Lou
> 
> I have a good friend who also happens to be a good mechanic, and he has told
> me of a personal experience trying to use R22 in a R12 system. It does lock
> up the compressor, I'm no expert as to why, but from his experience, I
> definitely would not try to use R22 in a R12 system.

- -Trying to recall from faded memories of an A-C theory book I read a few
years ago:

The compressor lubricant can be suspended better in R12 than in R22. 
That means the R12 performs better in the raidal compressors that are
used in automotive applications.  Radial compressors mix some of the
lubricant with the refrigerant to lubricate the pistons and swashplate.  

The R22 is better for home and industrial refrigeration systems where
the compressors have a more traditional piston/crankshaft setup and the
oil can be pumped to the crankshaft and pistons.  

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais
73 98 LS

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 22:39:49 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: R-12 to R-134 conversion

Greg;
Most commercial and home units have built in heaters to keep them from
ingesting a solid chunk of freon, cant compress a liquid as we all know.
Even at home, dont turn off electric supply to outside unit. Yomit a piston
like I have done on the fuel cars. 
Lou

- ----------
> From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: R-12 to R-134 conversion

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 23:46:19 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?

<< The AV opens max to about 2/3 to 3/4 thanks to a little tab, which I
 could snip off, but I understand that I'd have to re-jet the
 secondaries. The air cleaner assembly also looks _very_
 restrictive--I'll have to fabricate a second snorkel and plumb it
 outside once I have some time off to get creative with the tin snips.

 Thanks for letting me know what kind of sound secondaries make! I'll have  
to try and flip the air cleaner lid and go for an, er, exploratory
 drive. I live literally right next to the police headquarters in
 Toronto, as in our building shares a wall with theirs.  >>

	If I remember correctly, this is a G-body? Flipping the air cleaner 
lid will dig into the hood insulation...I tried it myself..if the insulation 
is bad or already gone, it will be fine though. 
	Cut away at that tab : ) GM got progressively more restrictive with 
that tab the later the carb. I cut mine completely off, gives me approx. 90 
degree opening of the air valve. Only thing that does is let more air in, AND 
raise the secondary metering rods further out of their wells...to get the 
most out of cutting the tab, rejetting of the secondaries could help some, 
but I'm willing to bet the rods in your carb right now are worthless for 
performance anyway.  (almost all rods after about '80 on the standard, non 
"High Performance" cars are very thick and blunt..not designed for 
performance) Don't expect a huge difference in power rejetting the 
secondaries. If you cut the tab, and if your metering rods are restrictive, 
you MIGHT be able to tell a difference after those mods. Not like your going 
to cut a second off your 1/4 mile times with it though : )
	I just cut the snorkel off of a 2BBL carb air cleaner, and welded it 
to the other side of the 4BBL cleaner. Sounds just like having the lid 
flipped, so obviously flows more air. You can use the factory air cleaner 
hose too..the core support has provisions for dual snorkels. 
										
								Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 22:58:18 -0500
From: riksab@postoffice.swbell.net
Subject: Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?

HELLO.
my name is chris i also am fairly new to the list(about 2 wks. or so)I also
have some
probs. w/ my q-jet on my 69 98 2 dr coupe 455cid.
Q: where is "karl'sQ-jet site"?
CHRIS K.C.MO.
69-98
75 CADDI COUPE DEVILLE

Nikolaj Richers wrote:

> I am sorry to bother you all again with my carb. Can you still bear with
> me? I'm trying to determine why my secondaries don't seem to open, even
> though I revved the fully warmed-up Olds to just under five grand on
> WOT. It's an '85 Olds 88 with the Canadian-spec 307 4bbl engine in it,
> Q-Jet with no CCC and no A.I.R.
>
> My first question would be: the secondaries should open at that engine
> speed even during relatively short WOT bursts, correct? I revved the car
> to just under five grand a couple of times and watched the secondaries.
> They don't budge at all. I very vaguely remember that Q-Jet secondaries
> start opening at 40% throttle or more, so I think I should have seen
> _some_ movement.
>
> Checked the air valve for binding, moves just fine. The vacuum signal to
> the front passenger-side choke pull-off diaphragm is there--the
> diagphragm retracts on start-up, holding the AV shut. Pulled off the
> vacuum line, watched the diaphragm release, and revved it (not to five
> grand, but probably around 3500-4000 RPM). No AV movement.
>
> What else? On Karl's Q-Jet site there was a link to a tuning site, which
> recommends removing the secondary lock-out tang near the fast idle cam.
> Is that a good idea? I figure the lock-out is for warm-up and strikes me
> as a good idea, but then who in their sane mind would race a cold car?
>
> Thanks! I'll be poking around some more a little later today. Maybe I'll
> find whatever is keeping this Olds from breathing a little more freely.
>
>         Nikolaj
>
> --
> Nikolaj Richers, Toronto, Canada; nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 00:04:11 EDT
From: GaryDW30@aol.com
Subject: Re: owner's manual 87 442

Try www.helminc.com

Gary
69 W-30  4-speed

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 00:19:08 EDT
From: GaryDW30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Regal GN List

Try any of these sites.

www.turboregal.com
www.gnttype.org
www.gntperformance.com
www.turbobuicknewsletter.com

Gary
69 W-30  4-speed

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 01:50:12 -0700
From: BC <beastmaster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: R-12 to R-134 conversion

Hi,
I was just reading this same subject on line this afternoon. It seems that
converting to the new specs on an existing r-12 system can and usually does
cause breakdown of the lubricating oil in the next R-134 sytem. The breakdown 
is
caused by trace elements of the R-12 Freon. Flushing the system doesn't seem to
remove all the deposit of R-12 and they stated it doesn't take very much R-12 
to
start the breakdown. I will find the pages and forward the info to the list.
Regards,
Bruce
70 Delta 88 Conv. 350
75 Delta 88 Royale Conv. 455

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 06:20:41 +0500
From: "Tom Voltaggio" <tvoltagg@voicenet.com>
Subject: Re: Trunk Panel "silvery" trim

This car has 56,000 miles.  I suppose I'm out of luck.  Can anyone estimate 
how much this panel should 
cost? (new, used)?



On Sun, 18 Apr 1999 22:01:48 EDT, S61starfir@aol.com wrote:

>In a message dated 4/18/99 7:57:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
>tvoltagg@voicenet.com writes:
>
><< 
> I have a 96 Cutlass Supreme and the "silvery" trim on the trunk panel
> has disintegrated.  Is this something
> that is covered under the warranty?
> 
>  >>
>   Those cars are covered for 3yr 36,000 mile bumber to bumper, how many 
>miles do you have, check with your dealer
>
>Everett  OCA# 1961  1961 Starfire  Antiqolds@aol.com
>

Tom Voltaggio
tvoltagg@voicenet.com
http://www.voicenet.com/~tvoltagg

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 07:25:06 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Primer...

>The primer I am familiar with does not have a "Time limit" to when the
>color could be shot. I seen a car sit inprimer for a couple of months to
>get it straight and then the color gets shot. never had any problems.

O.K. with "standard" primer, as long as you clean off any contaminants that
may have accumulated first.

The paint guys I bought my 3-part polyester primer from told me to paint the
first color coat within 2 hrs of sanding the primer, or else the pores will
"close up" and prevent good adhesion. Have no reason to doubt them.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 08:09:15 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: Did you see that 67 "442" !!!(more)

In a message dated 99-04-18 22:23:43 EDT, you write:

<< It was sitting next to a maverick and you guys need to watch more races.
 The same commercial debuted at the end of last season.
  >>
I would watch more races if I didnt have 5 kids , a wife and those 
Oldsmobiles ruling my life......lol....
Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 08:09:39 -0400
From: "Tina Walters" <jtmwalt@netsync.net>
Subject: Primer question & door hinges

Good morning everyone, I have 2 questions I hope someone will answer. (1)
Who makes BLACK lacquer primer, I have checked with Dupont & PPG and no
luck. (2) My door drops when opened, I know the hinge is loose, my question
is can the hinge be rebuilt with a new pin or bushing?? Or should I use new
hinges??? Thanks and have a good day. Joe Walters 73 H/O (digest mode)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 05:33:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: bushings

Check out p-s-t.com They are pretty decent in price.
Plus, free shipping in the US

- --- Mikeytvb@aol.com wrote:
> does anyone know where i can get a cheap set of
> polyurethane bushings?  i 
> need a set for the front of a 70 442.
> 
> mikeytvb@aol.com
> 70 442 ht
> 

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 09:06:47 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Did you see that 67 "442" !!!(more)

In a message dated 04/19/1999 8:10:53 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Four42much@aol.com writes:

<< I would watch more races if I didnt have 5 kids , a wife and those 
 Oldsmobiles ruling my life......lol....
 Hot Rod Harry >>

I don't understand, why are Oldsmobiles last on the list.  LOL

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 09:12:54 EDT
From: Biscayne2d@aol.com
Subject: NON CCC carb needed

I am in need of a cheap useable 4 barrel carb to replace the one on my car. I 
have a 79 with no computer and have just installed a 85 olds 307. I have 
replaced the Dist. with an older non computer one and now I need a decent 
cheap carb so my car will run right and stop burning so rich. Anyone got one 
they will let go cheap? I dont really want to have to rebuild one and would 
perfer it be in or close to WI but if the price is right I can pay shipping 
Thank you all
Paul 79

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 09:21:38 -0700
From: joe lewis <lewis@amada.net>
Subject: Re: updating your olds anyone put 17's on 70-72 yet???

Thanks for the great info John. I was wondering with your tires so close
to the frame when you go out of a driveway and turn do they rub. I had
this problem on my elcamino, i always had to pull straight out of a
driveway.

John Carri wrote:

> >QWKCUTLASS@aol.com wrote:
> >
> >I have a 74 cutlass and i had 17" budnicks on it, 8s in front 9s in
> >back. the wheelbase on our cars should be similiar, so i think 8 is
> >about the biggest you can go in the front without rubbing, with a 4"
> >backspace.  you can fit up to a 10" on the rear, with a 4.5" to 5"
> >backspace.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> The wheelbase (distance from centre of front wheel to centre of rear
> wheel) has nothing to do with tire fitment - did you mean wheelwell
> size?  After recently putting 16x8 wheels on my '72 Supreme I can tell
> you that 5" backspacing is definitely too much on a '72. On my car I'm
> using 4 1/4" backspacing on the rear wheels, and that puts the tire
> sidewall within less than an inch of the wheelwell on the inner side
> of the tire, so adding 3/4" inch more backspacing would either net you
> rubbing tires or a clearance so tight that the tires would rub in the
> turns and when they "grew" from heating, etc. On the other hand there
> is plenty of room on the outside of the tires for larger tires than
> I'm using (225/60/16 Falken's).
>
>    I'd say that no more than 4 1/4" backspacing should be used on the
> rear wheels on a '72 Supreme. The stock factory wheels were 3 7/8"
> backspacing, by the way. My Supreme is a 2-door hardtop, same rear
> quarters as a convertible.  I don't know if there is any difference in
> wheelwell size for the 2-door coupes (Cutlass S, etc).
>
> -John Carri
> '72 Supreme
> '73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 08:25:25 -0500
From: "Roger Hitson" <hitson@i1.net>
Subject: 11.46 was oil restric...

Cool!
*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********

On 4/15/99, at 7:00 PM, B. Vosburgh wrote: 

><snip>
>  Butch
>68  442 post  (finaly car ran 11. 46 last night love my olds)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 09:56:32 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?

First of all, in the Ron Forsee tradition of avoiding "truth decay", the things
you're looking at when you rev the engine are not the secondary throttle 
plates,
they are the air valve plates.  The throttle plates are at the bottom of the
carb where it bolts to the intake and are not visible with the carb installed 
on
an engine.  Except for some very early 65-66 Q-jets, the secondaries are
mechanically linked to the primaries and do start opening at 40% as you note.

(As an aside, the very early Q-jets used a choke-activated secondary lockout to
prevent these bores from opening before the engine was sufficiently warm.  This
was replaced by the air valve lockout on later carbs).

The air valves will normally only open under load, which you will not create by
revving the engine in park.  The small amount of opening that you see is 
normal.
Note that there may still be some things to check, however.  First, ensure that
the air valve lockout is fully opening.  This is a small tab on the passenger
side of the cab which is pushed out over the leading edge of the air valve when
the choke is on.  Verify that the tab is fully retracted when the choke is off
so that the motion of the air valve is unrestricted.

Second is the air valve wrap spring.  This is a tiny spring on the driver's 
side
of the air valve shaft.  It is adjusted with a screw which is visible under the
tab at the end of the air valve shaft.  Normally you will need to maunally open
the air valves and look through the slot in this tab to see a small flat-bladed
set screw in the air horn casting.  This screw is locked in place with a small
allen head screw which is accessed from the underside of the air horn, directly
below the adjusting screw.  You may need a small mirror to see this locking
screw with the carb installed on the car.  Adjustment of the spring is
accomplished by loosening the allen screw then rotating the set screw until the
spring just touches the small bar which projects from the air valve shaft.  
From
that point, turn the set screw an additional 3/4 to 7/8 of a turn and lock the
allen head screw down.  Test drive the car, and if it doesn't bog, back off on
the set screw an additional 1/8 of a turn at a time until you get a good
response from the secondaries.

Finally, there is a vacuum operated dashpot on the front passenger side of the
carb which controls the point at which the air valve opens.  Now, normally the
failure mode is that the diaphragm in the dashpot springs a leak, causing the
air valve to open too soon (which will cause a bog).  It is possible, however,
that in your case the orifice in the inlet of the dashpot has become plugged,
which could limit the travel of the air valve.  Pull off the vacuum hose and
inspect the orifice in the dashpot.

Hope this all helps

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 10:35:58 -0700
From: joe lewis <lewis@amada.net>
Subject: Re: Vette Brakes wheel spacers..(was 17" wheels)

You can order a catalog from there web site www.vettebrakes.com. Its been
years since i put those rims on my car im not sure of there size. The car
handled great i really like the ride im unsure what size those rims are,
again its been a while. I have a 72 as well im looking to put 17's on it.
i would like to fit the biggest tires possible on that bad boy. I have the
hothkis control arms already so it should be able to handle it. I have
275/60/15's on the rear now with plenty of clearence and my car has been
lowered. Im currently gathering info to see what the best offset, rim
size, tire size would be.

John Carri wrote:

> >Joe Lewis wrote:
> ><snip>
> >I have the 87 corvette rims on my 74 w/ 255/60/16 in the rear. I used
> >the bolt on spacers from vette brakes.
> ___________________________
>
> Joe, could you tell me how to contact Vette Brakes?  I remember
> reading something about these wheel spacers but I couldn't find the
> article when I looked for it.
>
> How wide are the Corvette rims? How do you like the ride and handling
> with them?  I have 16x8 rims all round on my '72 Supreme, with
> 225/60/16 tires on them, and am pretty happy with the result, but the
> wider front tires only worsen the effect of the lousy front suspension
> geometry (camber change) as wider lower-profile tires really need to
> be kept upright for the entire treadwidth to grip the road. Time to
> start saving for Global West A-arms...
>
> -John Carri
> '72 Supreme
> '73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 10:41:08 -0700
From: joe lewis <lewis@amada.net>
Subject: Re: updating your olds anyone put 17's on 70-72 yet???

John why only 225 on the rear im sure you can go at the very least 255. i
would like to try and get into the 315 range.

John Carri wrote:

> >QWKCUTLASS@aol.com wrote:
> >
> >I have a 74 cutlass and i had 17" budnicks on it, 8s in front 9s in
> >back. the wheelbase on our cars should be similiar, so i think 8 is
> >about the biggest you can go in the front without rubbing, with a 4"
> >backspace.  you can fit up to a 10" on the rear, with a 4.5" to 5"
> >backspace.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> The wheelbase (distance from centre of front wheel to centre of rear
> wheel) has nothing to do with tire fitment - did you mean wheelwell
> size?  After recently putting 16x8 wheels on my '72 Supreme I can tell
> you that 5" backspacing is definitely too much on a '72. On my car I'm
> using 4 1/4" backspacing on the rear wheels, and that puts the tire
> sidewall within less than an inch of the wheelwell on the inner side
> of the tire, so adding 3/4" inch more backspacing would either net you
> rubbing tires or a clearance so tight that the tires would rub in the
> turns and when they "grew" from heating, etc. On the other hand there
> is plenty of room on the outside of the tires for larger tires than
> I'm using (225/60/16 Falken's).
>
>    I'd say that no more than 4 1/4" backspacing should be used on the
> rear wheels on a '72 Supreme. The stock factory wheels were 3 7/8"
> backspacing, by the way. My Supreme is a 2-door hardtop, same rear
> quarters as a convertible.  I don't know if there is any difference in
> wheelwell size for the 2-door coupes (Cutlass S, etc).
>
> -John Carri
> '72 Supreme
> '73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 11:07:27 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Primer question & door hinges

in the motormite(help) product line you can find pin and bushing kits with
which to rebuild the door hinges or you could go to the dealer and they can
just sell you the bushings you'll have to find a part number but it is
cheaper then use a dremel tool to grind off the pinch tabs on the pins drive
them out then replace the bushings voilla your the proud owner of a new
(almost ) hinge
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Tina Walters <jtmwalt@netsync.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, April 19, 1999 7:09 AM
Subject: Primer question & door hinges


> Good morning everyone, I have 2 questions I hope someone will answer. (1)
> Who makes BLACK lacquer primer, I have checked with Dupont & PPG and no
> luck. (2) My door drops when opened, I know the hinge is loose, my
question
> is can the hinge be rebuilt with a new pin or bushing?? Or should I use
new
> hinges??? Thanks and have a good day. Joe Walters 73 H/O (digest mode)
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 11:10:57 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Starting problems

probably just needs an adjustment...KK
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: Scott Parker <sparker442@banet.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 1999 5:51 PM
Subject: Starting problems


> Since the neutral safety switch was mentioned, 'thought I'd describe my
> situation.  Although I have a floor shifter in my 71 442, I still find
> that I need to twist the collar on the column counter-clockwise slightly
> before it will start.  It's kind of a built-in theft deterrant that
> really pi**es peole off when I drop it at their shop and forget to tell
> them about it.  Is this normal or could it mean that my car was once
> converted from a column shifter?
> 
> Scott Parker
> 71 442 Conv.
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 10:07:27 -0500
From: C K <bloom9@juno.com>
Subject: New freon (was R-12 to R-134)

As promised in a past post here's the info on a freon that's a complete
replacement for R-12. This freon (which is a trade name for refrigerant
of any kind) at the supply house I use costs about $1.60 per pound and
must be purchased in a 30 lb. jug.

It's produced by a company called Forane. They call it 409A (FX-56). It
is a HCFC (hydrochlorofluorocarbon) and is in the same group as R-22 and
R-123, but is not the same as them. 

As most of us know R-134A is a blend of other freons. R-409A is also a
blend but in such a way that it is fully compatible with R-12 systems!
This means the oil base is compatable, thus making it able to be used
with all existing parts on your cars that are currently using R-12. For
you techies out there the oil base is Min. oil and/or alkylbenzene.

It is not recomended to mix R-12 with R-409A. Below is the retrofit
procedure. I'll be doing this to my brother-in -laws '92 Honda in a
couple of weeks. I'll let you know how it goes.

Step 1. Gather baseline data on your existing system as far as capaticies
for your car(how much freon it takes and the proper oil charge).

Step 2. Recover the existing R-12 charge in your system. (in my case it's
all gone)

Step 3. Removal of existing mineral oil is NOT necessary. 

Step 4. Replace filter driers and repair any leaks (duh!) and then leak
check. (use soapy water)

Step 5. Borrow a Vacuum pump and purge the system to deep vacuum (29"
would be nice for at least an hour, if it won't hold vacuum check for
leaks again). The vacuum pump removes all the moisture in the system
before adding the freon. This is a must for a good efficient system and
the protection of your compressor and expansion valve.

Step 6. Charge your system with R-409A (this is while still under vacuum
using the charge hose on your gages). 409A should be charged in the
liquid phase only. The approximate R-409A charge for most applications
will be 85-90% of the original R-12 charge (cool huh?).

Step 7. Identify your system as having the new freon.

Step 8. Start the system and make final expansion valve adjustments to
achieve proper superheat settings. Normal operating pressures of R-409A
vary from 1-2 psi higher on the low-side and 20% higher on the high-side.
(keep in mind that's 20% higher PSI and not phsyical condenser size which
is the problem with R-134A)

Like I said before I'll be using this freon for the first time pretty
soon. 

Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass (daily driver)

___________________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 11:47:34 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Starting problems

Your linkage pivot points could be wearing and getting a little loose. When
you put it in park your column isn't rotating all the way cause there's a
little slack in the linkage. 

Omega Man
2-'74 Omegas


At 06:51 PM 4/18/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Since the neutral safety switch was mentioned, 'thought I'd describe my
>situation.  Although I have a floor shifter in my 71 442, I still find
>that I need to twist the collar on the column counter-clockwise slightly
>before it will start.  It's kind of a built-in theft deterrant that
>really pi**es peole off when I drop it at their shop and forget to tell
>them about it.  Is this normal or could it mean that my car was once
>converted from a column shifter?
>
>Scott Parker
>71 442 Conv.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 11:58:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: dsenko@UU.NET (Drew Senko)
Subject: FS: 75 H/O

I received the following e-mail from the owner of a 75 Olds.  If
anyone is interested, please contact the owner, Brian Datko, at
KAY@ICDC.COM.  I don't know the owner and I know nothing more about
the car than what is printed below.

 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 

From: "Brian Datko" <kay@icdc.com>
Subject: 75 olds

75 olds hurst W30 .  i would like to sell if you know anybody who
would be interested please e-mail. thank you Brian Datko

 - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - 

 --                    ______________                     _
Drew Senko            / Convertibles \                    |\
dsenko@uu.net         \_____Rule!____/     .__====-_._____|_\______
Vienna, VA, USA                     O      [   ___  |-     |  ___  \
http://members.aol.com/drewinva       o o  =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)
_______________________________________________\_/____________\_/_____

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 12:21:30 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: The Unoffical Rochester Carburetor Web Site: Next carb problem--no 
secondaries?

In a message dated 99-04-18 23:59:29 EDT, you write:

<< HELLO.>>

Ow!
Hi chris!

<< my name is chris i also am fairly new to the list(about 2 wks. or so)I also
 have some probs. w/ my q-jet on my 69 98 2 dr coupe 455cid.
 Q: where is "karl'sQ-jet site"?
 CHRIS K.C.MO.
 69-98 >>

That locale is:

http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html

Send carb probs to: Qjet@aol.com

(dunno how that happened to be available!)

Cut and paste.
Afraid not an overwhelming amount of info.
Am working on that (still).
Finally think my HTML probs are solved.
Have a good listing of Olds Q-jet codes and Rochester in general before 1963.
Just need to get about the data-entry thing.

Anyone willing to sell their binders that make up ACDelco/Rochester part # 
"9X"?
Karl needs Ch*tty codes badly.
And Pontoon.
And Pu-ick!
And Cadillac.  (<-- bone given, one time only)

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1912
*********************************

