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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1939


oldsmobile-digest         Monday, May 3 1999         Volume 01 : Number 1939



LOOKING FOR A FIX
Looking for info on an 88 Cutlass Supreme International
Re: Wheel bolt circle question
Re: LOOKING FOR A FIX
Re: Wheel bolt circle question
Re: LOOKING FOR A FIX
Re: LOOKING FOR A FIX
How does this car look to you?
What's wrong with the world? I ask...
Re: How does this car look to you?
Re: How does this car look to you?
Re: PH-11 or PH-25 in ANY Olds?
Burnout RPM
Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...
Torker vs Performer
Re: wrist pin screws engine
Re: Burnout RPM
66 Starfire Ups & Downs
Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...
Re: 66 Starfire Ups & Downs
Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...
Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...
Racer Question
Re: LOOKING FOR A FIX
Steam holes.
Update and more Q's about 1953 / 1957 98
Update and more Q's about 1953 / 1957 98
Re: Torker vs Performer
RE: Exhaust recommendations on a 72 Cutlass
flywheel 4-speed
Building a 403
1987 442 For Sale!
UNBOUNCE: 1975 Delta 88 Convertible
Re: '71 Supreme Trim and Paint 
Re: 1987 442 For Sale!
Windshield Pinchweld
Holley Comments on the Olds List
Re: wrist pin screws engine
Re: Sticky Sport Steering Wheel
Re: Burnout RPM
Attn: MBloomer ....regarding HEI
Re: flywheel 4-speed
Re: Building a 403
Re: Sticky Sport Steering Wheel
Re: '71 Supreme Trim and Paint
Re: Exhaust recommendations on a 72 Cutlass
Re: boneyarding a dash+in.-ex wiring harness
Lightning Rods
drag race
AM/FM Radio Rebuild
Re: How does this car look to you?
Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...
Re: 1971 442 W30
Vibration Part 59
Wire Wheels
Parts Wanted.
Thanks
Re: drag race
Re: Vibration Part 59
Re: Wire Wheels
tach on a '68

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 14:44:26 EDT
From: VLHDancer@aol.com
Subject: LOOKING FOR A FIX

I HAVE HOLES IN MY ROOF BEHIND THE WINDSHIELD MOULDING. MANY LARGE HOLES. ANY 
IDEA FOR A FIX?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 11:26:24 -0700
From: kleinwulf@netzero.net
Subject: Looking for info on an 88 Cutlass Supreme International

Hi.

New to the group here and it looks like my first post never made it.
 (Ahhh...  The vagaries of the net.)

Anyway...

I have the aforementioned 88 Cutlass Supreme International and would like the 
following info.

GVWR
Suggested max towed weight
Curb weight
Where can I track down a build sheet?
How many of this year/model were produced?

It's being used as a primary car for now and makes regular trips from Pahrump, 
Nv to Lancaster, Ca.  About 250 miles each way and is a pleasure to drive.  
The last trip was pulling a 2-horse trailer (no horses, just several hundred 
lbs of 
stuff).  Maybe 1600 lbs or so of towed weight. I have to say the Cutlass is a 
better tow vehicle than my 86 Jeep Commanche longbed with the same trailer.

Sorry if this is off topic here...  Seems the list is pretty focussed on the 
bigger 
and earlier cars.  I've had practically zero results finding info and posting 
here is 
an act of desperation at this point.

Thanks.
Aaron Brady

88 Olds Cutlass Supreme International
86 Jeep Commanche Longbed
74 Chev 3/4 ton van

Lots of vehicles in the que to be brought back  :)
64 Mercury Comet 2-door hardtop
64 Mercury Comet 2-door convertible
66 International Travelall 4x4 with a 64 El Camino body mounted
71 Norton Commando 750 Motorcycle


________________________________________________________
NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet.  Shouldn't you?
Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 14:51:27 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Wheel bolt circle question

 Anyone know off the top of your head?...
__________

The A/F/X body cars used a 5 x 4 3/4" bolt circle.  The B/C body cars typically
used a 5 x 5" bolt pattern.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 15:00:28 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: LOOKING FOR A FIX

You have to weld in new metal.

Omega Man




At 02:44 PM 5/3/99 EDT, you wrote:
>I HAVE HOLES IN MY ROOF BEHIND THE WINDSHIELD MOULDING. MANY LARGE HOLES.
ANY 
>IDEA FOR A FIX?
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 15:02:18 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel bolt circle question

THANK_YOU_JOE! Exactly what I needed to know.

Omega Man



At 02:51 PM 5/3/99 -0400, you wrote:
> Anyone know off the top of your head?...
>__________
>
>The A/F/X body cars used a 5 x 4 3/4" bolt circle.  The B/C body cars
typically
>used a 5 x 5" bolt pattern.
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 15:04:08 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: LOOKING FOR A FIX

I HAVE HOLES IN MY ROOF BEHIND THE WINDSHIELD MOULDING. MANY LARGE HOLES. ANY
IDEA FOR A FIX?
____________

HELLO!  LOOK AT THE LEFT SIDE OF YOUR KEYBOARD.  LOCATE THE KEY LABLED "CAPS
LOCK" AND PRESS IT.

Whew!  Now isn't that better?

The technical term for the condition afflicting your car is called "RUST",
something often found in Florida.  Unfortunately, the only permanent solution 
is
to take out the windshield, headliner, and other interior components and have
new metal welded in.  Any other solution (sealers, fiberglass, etc) will be
temporary at best and at worst won't even fix the problem.  The only other
viable alternative is the "donor body" method...

Sorry, but that's unfortunately the only option.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 14:09:00 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: LOOKING FOR A FIX

> I HAVE HOLES IN MY ROOF BEHIND THE WINDSHIELD MOULDING. MANY LARGE HOLES. 
ANY 
> IDEA FOR A FIX?

NO CHEAP FIX FOR THIS. YOU NEED A NEW ROOF. BRING IT TO BODY SHOP AND LET 
THEM GIVE YOU AN ESTIMATE. SO LONG YOU CAN PATCH IT WITH DUCKT TAPE.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 14:35:24 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: How does this car look to you?

Hi Guys, 

I hope that I don't blow anybodys deal with this but nobody bids on this 
anyway. How do you guys like this car? 

ebay # 96426366

I want some opinions. It is a 65 cutlass. It would be near 
enough from my home that I could check it out on a weekend. What about 
those wheels and does everything else look correct??? This may be an 
alternative to my 442 day dreams...

George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 15:52:12 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: What's wrong with the world? I ask...

Here's a little story that took up about 3.5 hours of my weekend. Enjoy


Ok. This has happened to me twice now and this time after driving 1 hour
each way. I answered another ad for a 455 Olds. This one was supposedly
"rebuilt to high performance standards". Owners words not mine. The guy
supposedly had real bad eyesight and couldn't give me the block numbers
over the phone. (The last guy was too stupid to look UNDER the dirt for the
numbers). Anyway after 3 phone conversations the guy had me convinced he
had a newly rebuilt 455. "over $1300 in it. I saw the receipt from the guy
I bought it from" he said. (I guess he bought it back when he could see.)
But he couldn't tell me anything about what was done to it. He had no clue
what was inside that engine. But he knew he wanted $600 for it. For a good
running 455 I thought that was a pretty good deal. So I pile into the
pickup and off I go. About an hour later I get there with my big book of
numbers and as soon as I pulled the piece of carpet off the thing I look at
the guy and say "you've got yourself a small block here buddy"!  "NO NO NO"
he says "Thats a 455. It came out of a '79 Toronado" "I had 3 other engine
experts look at and they all said it's a 455" "The one guy teaches an
automotive class" He said. So I said "We'll your experts don't know their
ass from an Oldsmobile. I'll tell ya exactly what you have here." I open
the bible. Well my bible doesn't list the 3B block with 52 as the last two
#s but it lists the 3A heads as being on the '77-'80 350. A 350 in a '79
Toro sounds odd to me, but again, I don't know my ass from a Toro. Their
not my cup of tea. So after thuroughly explaining the difference between a
big and small block Olds to this fella and after many appologies from him
for wasting half my day, I took my $600 and my big book of Olds numbers and
went home. At least the guy said he was going in to call his motor experts
and give them all sorts of greif. The last guy tried to pass off a 350 2bbl
as a 455!
Oh yea, He also had a rusty '7? Cosworth Vega sitting there sunk in about
4" in the yard he tried to sell me for $1800. I told him I'd have to pull
out that Iron Lung 4 popper and drop in a 383 small block. "NO NO NO" he
said. "My son had that car up to 160mph and had to back off because he got
scared"
Why me...............

Omega Man
2-74 Omegas
1 455 so far

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 15:54:34 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: How does this car look to you?

Looks like a decent driver from the pic. But pics can be deceiving.

Omega Man




At 02:35 PM 5/3/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Hi Guys, 
>
>I hope that I don't blow anybodys deal with this but nobody bids on this 
>anyway. How do you guys like this car? 
>
>ebay # 96426366
>
>I want some opinions. It is a 65 cutlass. It would be near 
>enough from my home that I could check it out on a weekend. What about 
>those wheels and does everything else look correct??? This may be an 
>alternative to my 442 day dreams...
>
>George
>
>--------------------------------------------------------------
>'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
>--------------------------------------------------------------
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 16:08:41 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: How does this car look to you?

That would be the "Cutless Supreme" [sic].  It's pretty clear that the seller
isn't particularly Oldsmobile literate, as the _Cutlass Supreme_ model didn't
come out until 1966.  On the other hand, it looks pretty clean (of course, so
does just about any car in that type of photo) and if the 66K is real then the
mileage is phenomenal.  The original engine would have been a 330.  Doesn't
indicate trans type or seating.  Looks like a blue interior.  Sounds like a 
good
price if the car is half as nice as descibed.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 14:23:39 -0600
From: cdemps@lsumc.edu (Dempsey, Charles)
Subject: Re: PH-11 or PH-25 in ANY Olds?

KarlAunan@aol.com wrote:

In a message dated 99-05-02 13:13:13 EDT, you write:

> The box says of the PH-11;
> "Replaces AC PF-7, PF-31"
  
> The PH 25 box says;
> "Replaces AC PF-24, PF-30"   >>

The General cleared this one up for me. It's an AMC filter and holds
about a pint more oil than the PH-25. I used a PH-11 replacement since I
already had one on the shelf.

> Further, please do NOT use the Fram filter with PFTE in your car.
> You will be sorry when you pay for the overbore.

PTFE? 

Polytetrafluoroethylene? 

Teflon?

WTF? 

This and another e-mail got me looking around for oil filter
information. Fram *used* to be a quality manufacturer. If you can
believe the information at 

<http://members.xoom.com/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html> 

(I do) then that is no longer true. I'm taking my un-used Frams back for
refund or replacement.

Charles (thinking about Purolator and Mobil 1 filters)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 15:19:10 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Burnout RPM

I was wondering what RPM do fellow Olds 455 drivers do their burnout at the
track?

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 16:15:39 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...

Oh yea, He also had a rusty '7? Cosworth Vega sitting there sunk in about
4" in the yard he tried to sell me for $1800. I told him I'd have to pull
out that Iron Lung 4 popper and drop in a 383 small block. "NO NO NO" he
said. "My son had that car up to 160mph and had to back off because he got
scared"
Why me...............
___________

Uh, that would be the Alcoa Lung 4 popper, and the Cosworth was actually a
pretty hot car in it's day (at least until the body surrounding that DOHC motor
returned to it's base elements).  I suspect they are becoming collectable,
though not $1800 worth for the condition you describe.  IMHO, the Vega is the
natural home for a 215 aluminum Olds V8 (had one, it was a lot of fun).

As for uninformed idiot sellers, get used to it.  I've found time and again 
that
most people seem to have a hard time with the concept of "rust free".  At least
you didn't drive 1500 miles round trip in 48 hours just to find that the "rust
free" 70 Cutlass body you were going to buy wasn't... (and yes, I was going on
the recommendation of someone who had seen the car and supposedly knew what he
was talking about).

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 15:21:16 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Torker vs Performer

A friend of mine had a Torker intake on his 455 with an 830cfm carb and 80
- - 80 jets. Now he put on the Edelbrock Performer Intake. Should he go
richer or leaner?
Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 15:23:28 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: wrist pin screws engine

What type of pistons were you running? What RPM were you taking the motor?
Are you spraying? 


- ----------
> From: KarlAunan@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: wrist pin screws engine
> Date: Monday, May 03, 1999 12:43 PM
> 
> In a message dated 99-05-02 15:25:50 EDT, you write:
> 
> <<  pulled motor this morning and found that the wrist pin moved out to
the 
> cyl wall. I see a sleeve and a set of new pin floating rods on the
horizon 
> this is the last time that I listen to local machine shops, more like 
> junkyard mechaincs. the part
>  that sucks is that I am 2nd in points as of saturday
>                          Butch   68   442   post >>
> 
> Oh, NO!
> 
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 15:22:26 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Burnout RPM

gear 2 about 3500 RPM should have the tire speed at about 65 or 70 MPH
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 3:19 PM
Subject: Burnout RPM


> I was wondering what RPM do fellow Olds 455 drivers do their burnout at
the
> track?
>
> Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 13:28:55 -0700 
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: 66 Starfire Ups & Downs

Three pieces of good news:
1) You can still get the correct neutral safety switch for a 66 starfire (&
Cutlass 442's with AT consoles)
2) 455 waterpump noses are 2 different lengths
3) Victor makes a 455 waterpump gasket of very high quality - cork & metal -
not crummy paper.

The story
So I got the S/f back from about 10 months of paint & body and interior
uphostering on Friday. Wow. Autumn Bronze exterior, parchment interior with
black console, dash & rugs. Very clean. Wow. Hit my expectations on the
head. 

So I figger I'll treat the new car to an oil change and top up the
leaky-when-the-seals-are-dry TH400. Head to my supplier and get the stuff
and the car won't start. Huh? I just rewired the whole thing and it was
perfect. Aha!Bad neutral safety switch -- no power to the starter motor. 

The indignity of being towed home on a maiden voyage. Couldn't get to the
switch without an Allen wrench. Fixed that Saturday afternoon, then took
shakedown cruise Saturday night. The mech. temp guage showed on the high
side of 230, D*mn. I figured the guage was wrong. Nope. Waterpump blew a
gasket. Oh well, time for the cooling system mightaswells anyway. 

New pump. Victor cork & metal gasket and I'm good to go right? Doh! My a/c
waterpump nose is 5/8's too long. Didn't know there were 2 different
lengths.

More fun tonight. You sure can get out of practice - I completely forgot to
measure the pump before painting & installing.
At least my instincts for the safety switch was on target.

cheers,
cf 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 15:34:46 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...

On a similar note I once drove four hours to view a prospect 69 Hemi Dart
the price was about right for this beast but upon inspection it had a 318?
with what the owner said was a holley 4 bbl which looked suprisingly like a
carter 2bbl? then when called on the carb he says they made em smaller then?
then when I told him I didnt want the car for the asking price (i.e. NOT AT
ALL) he says" well thats the price I know what I ve got!!!!!!" now what do
you say at a time like this? I just shook my head and walked to the truck
and left incredible!!!! then there was a guy with a rare all original 68 442
W-30 I go look at it and it has a 396 in it no scoops headers 6 inch air
cleaner and it didnt run
had no 442 emblems on it also no paint just primer but the glovebos door
says cutlass S and the guy tells me that the w-30 option was a chevy engine
and that all cutlass's were 442s well that is about it for my venting G'day
Cheers.....KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 2:52 PM
Subject: What's wrong with the world? I ask...


> Here's a little story that took up about 3.5 hours of my weekend. Enjoy
>
>
> Ok. This has happened to me twice now and this time after driving 1 hour
> each way. I answered another ad for a 455 Olds. This one was supposedly
> "rebuilt to high performance standards". Owners words not mine. The guy
> supposedly had real bad eyesight and couldn't give me the block numbers
> over the phone. (The last guy was too stupid to look UNDER the dirt for
the
> numbers). Anyway after 3 phone conversations the guy had me convinced he
> had a newly rebuilt 455. "over $1300 in it. I saw the receipt from the guy
> I bought it from" he said. (I guess he bought it back when he could see.)
> But he couldn't tell me anything about what was done to it. He had no clue
> what was inside that engine. But he knew he wanted $600 for it. For a good
> running 455 I thought that was a pretty good deal. So I pile into the
> pickup and off I go. About an hour later I get there with my big book of
> numbers and as soon as I pulled the piece of carpet off the thing I look
at
> the guy and say "you've got yourself a small block here buddy"!  "NO NO
NO"
> he says "Thats a 455. It came out of a '79 Toronado" "I had 3 other engine
> experts look at and they all said it's a 455" "The one guy teaches an
> automotive class" He said. So I said "We'll your experts don't know their
> ass from an Oldsmobile. I'll tell ya exactly what you have here." I open
> the bible. Well my bible doesn't list the 3B block with 52 as the last two
> #s but it lists the 3A heads as being on the '77-'80 350. A 350 in a '79
> Toro sounds odd to me, but again, I don't know my ass from a Toro. Their
> not my cup of tea. So after thuroughly explaining the difference between a
> big and small block Olds to this fella and after many appologies from him
> for wasting half my day, I took my $600 and my big book of Olds numbers
and
> went home. At least the guy said he was going in to call his motor experts
> and give them all sorts of greif. The last guy tried to pass off a 350
2bbl
> as a 455!
> Oh yea, He also had a rusty '7? Cosworth Vega sitting there sunk in about
> 4" in the yard he tried to sell me for $1800. I told him I'd have to pull
> out that Iron Lung 4 popper and drop in a 383 small block. "NO NO NO" he
> said. "My son had that car up to 160mph and had to back off because he got
> scared"
> Why me...............
>
> Omega Man
> 2-74 Omegas
> 1 455 so far
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 16:36:54 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 66 Starfire Ups & Downs

New pump. Victor cork & metal gasket and I'm good to go right? Doh! My a/c
waterpump nose is 5/8's too long. Didn't know there were 2 different
lengths....
_________

Ah, _THREE_ different lengths, actually...

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 16:42:30 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...

At 03:34 PM 5/3/99 -0500, you wrote:
>On a similar note I once drove four hours to view a prospect 69 Hemi Dart
>the price was about right for this beast but upon inspection it had a 318?
>with what the owner said was a holley 4 bbl which looked suprisingly like a
>carter 2bbl? then when called on the carb he says they made em smaller then?
>then when I told him I didnt want the car for the asking price (i.e. NOT AT
>ALL) he says" well thats the price I know what I ve got!!!!!!" now what do
>you say at a time like this? I just shook my head and walked to the truck
>and left incredible!!!! then there was a guy with a rare all original 68 442
>W-30 I go look at it and it has a 396 in it no scoops headers 6 inch air
>cleaner and it didnt run
>had no 442 emblems on it also no paint just primer but the glovebos door
>says cutlass S and the guy tells me that the w-30 option was a chevy engine
>and that all cutlass's were 442s well that is about it for my venting G'day
>Cheers.....KK
>
We'll if you believed those guys, then I know where there's a guy selling
the only '73 Toronado ever made! :)

>> Omega Man
>> 2-74 Omegas
>> 1 455 so far
>>
>>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 18:14:26 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...

Kerry & Gene, great (but sad) stories! I laughed and laughed... nice to
know that all of these types are not here in Nova Scotia as I suspected. 
That '79 455 would be a keeper since they stopped making them in '76. And
that 396 W-30 is one of those rare factory options... lotsa work keeping
them restored to "factory original", y'know... yep, they all know what
they got. :)

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
(why I'm laughing I dunno... just put a new $centerlink$ in the Delta)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 17:23:35 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Racer Question

Received this email.  Maybe one of you can help.  Reply: CNTERLINE @
aol.com

I have a 455 in my 67 442,the car runs 11.90,s I have an MSD 6T with a
rev
limiter and spark retard I use for when I start the engine 15 deg retard

while cranking.It is hooked into the Holley Pro-Jection  system,my
problem is
even with  the spark retard at cranking it still sometimes fires and
actually
turns the starter the other way before starting,sounds nasty and I dont
know
how the starter hasnt broken yet, do you know of anyone using my set-up
with
a similar problem ?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 17:17:46 EDT
From: VLHDancer@aol.com
Subject: Re: LOOKING FOR A FIX

Thank you when can you weld up my top? how much?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 16:54:12 -0500
From: "Ian M. C. Dixon" <iand@sbrc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Steam holes.

Listers,

I'm new to the list, and own a 1982 Toronado in very good shape 
with the stock 307 CID. 

I've just finished rebuilding and assembling a small block Olds 403 
@ 0.30 over with some components supplied by Mondello 
Performance products (CA).  A major modification I included was 
the use of #3A 350 heads with 75 cc comb chamber size.  At the 
end of the day, my calculated CR is now 8.7.    

The question that I have is this:  as the 403 block (#4B) and heads 
have small steam holes between cylinders to allow for the 
movement of coolant through the middle of the head, must I drill 
these to match in the replacement 350 heads?  

Although the tech service at Mondello (Lynn) said to do this only if 
"it makes me feel better", and that this is definitely not required,  I 
want to confirm this with listers in this group.   Mondello's indicated 
that they do this "all the time" without this extra small mod.

My engine is assembled now without the steam holes drilled, 
however, I don't care about the extra time it may take to take it 
apart again.

Two things;  I assume the 403 has "siamesed" cylinders with 
regard to the waterjacket (because the walls are so close 
together), and that somehow the waterjacket design is good 
enough to compensate for possible vapour lock in the absence of 
drilled out steam holes in the 350 heads.  Any thoughts, advice or 
suggestions?

TIA,

Ian Dixon
Winnipeg, Canada  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 15:56:28 -0700
From: Daniel Rieke <wssc@rt66.com>
Subject: Update and more Q's about 1953 / 1957 98

Ok, so after about 2 months of lurking, i'll pipe up again. Last time i
asked about possible engines to put into my 1953 98, thank you to all of
those who helped me.

Here is where i am now: I have purchased a 1957 371 ci J-2 motor with
the tri-power manifold ( thanks lee! ) , it is at the shop and having
everything replaced that is needed, and having hardened valve seats put
in. I sourced the manifold ( now i have 2, anyone need one ? ) carbs,
and linkage from a guy in new your for $150. These are also being
rebiult.  My original 53 4 speed, dual range hydromatic was redone to
new specs ( it was slipping a lot )...so now i have a few questions:
In the olds FAQ it says that putting a 371 into where the 303 was is
basicly a bolt in, but are there any modifications i am not thinking of
?

#1. I have been told that i need to use my 53 flywheel on the 57 engine.
The 57 flywheel has a counterwieght on it, the 57 did not.  Why must
this be done ? Is there an unbalance in my eariler hydro that cayses
this flywheel to be used ?

# 2.  An old engine swapping guide for the 60's that i have states that
the crankshaft flange was diffrent after '53, therefore, i would have to
have the pilot shaft hole enlarged, correct ? Does anyone have exact
info on the sizs of the crankshaft flange or the pilot shaft hole for
either 1953 or 1957 ?

#3. I know i can run dual exausts straight back from the 57 exaust
manifolds, but is there anything less restrictive that i could do ? Does
anyone still make headers for the 57-58 olds 371 ?

Thanks for your help, many of you had some great info for me...and I'm
sorry to disapoint some of you because I did not put a 455 in there : )

Daniel Rieke
Santa Fe, NM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 15:57:28 -0700
From: Daniel Rieke <wssc@rt66.com>
Subject: Update and more Q's about 1953 / 1957 98

Ok, so after about 2 months of lurking, i'll pipe up again. Last time i
asked about possible engines to put into my 1953 98, thank you to all of
those who helped me.

Here is where i am now: I have purchased a 1957 371 ci J-2 motor with
the tri-power manifold ( thanks lee! ) , it is at the shop and having
everything replaced that is needed, and having hardened valve seats put
in. I soured the manifold ( now i have 2, anyone need one ? ) carbs, and
linkage from a guy in new your for $150. These are also being rebuilt.
My original 53 4 speed, dual range hydromatic was redone to new specs (
it was slipping a lot )...so now i have a few questions:
In the olds FAQ it says that putting a 371 into where the 303 was is
basically a bolt in, but are there any modifications i am not thinking
of ?

#1. I have been told that i need to use my 53 flywheel on the 57 engine.
The 57 flywheel has a counterweight on it, the 57 did not.  Why must
this be done ? Is there an unbalance in my earlier hydro that causes
this flywheel to be used ?

# 2.  An old engine swapping guide for the 60's that i have states that
the crankshaft flange was different after '53, therefore, i would have
to have the pilot shaft hole enlarged, correct ? Does anyone have exact
info on the sizes of the crankshaft flange or the pilot shaft hole for
either 1953 or 1957 ?

#3. I know i can run dual exhausts straight back from the 57 exhaust
manifolds, but is there anything less restrictive that i could do ? Does
anyone still make headers for the 57-58 olds 371 ?

Thanks for your help, many of you had some great info for me...and I'm
sorry to disappoint some of you because I did not put a 455 in there : )

Daniel Rieke
Santa Fe, NM

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 16:57:45 -0500
From: Stephen Hoover <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: Torker vs Performer

830 80 square on a Torker, sounds like a nice setup, why did he change
to the Performer?
I would say he should be fine where's he at. The Performer will boost
the signal to the carb, but still needs to be on the rich side, those
big blocks need that raw fuel. ;)


Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

Peter Landowski wrote:
> 
> A friend of mine had a Torker intake on his 455 with an 830cfm carb and 80
> - 80 jets. Now he put on the Edelbrock Performer Intake. Should he go
> richer or leaner?
> Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 17:07:48 -0500 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas.Martin@motorola.com>
Subject: RE: Exhaust recommendations on a 72 Cutlass

I have the Hooker duals for a 87 GN, cat back, 2.5", has the super comp
mufflers (http://members.home.net/tlentz/hooker_exhaust.html).  They seem
relatively quiet to me, nice, no one complains.  Not even the wife and kids.
The Impala guys complain about the 2 chamber being too loud.  I am very
pleased with the Hooker duals.  Nice quality.  Mine has no droning at all, I
sorta wish it was a little louder...  Maybe a 403 or 455 will help.  Found
me a 403 I may try.....make a nice summer builder...

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 18:16:31 -0700
From: stephen minore <steven.minore@snet.net>
Subject: flywheel 4-speed

Hey guys,

I am desperatly looking for a good used 4-speed flywheel for my 70 
cutlass W-31. I put an ad on here some time ago and got one respose, but 
that deal fell through my hands because I let a considerable time go 
by!!!!
Now i am looking again. 

any help would be greatly appreciated,

thanks!!!!!!

Stephen Minore 70 W-31 FREAK!!!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 17:13:28 -0500 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas.Martin@motorola.com>
Subject: Building a 403

Any recommendations for building a torque monster low rpm 403?  

I am looking at one to replace my 350, and would like to know how to make it
run gobs of low rpm torque.  Should I run 307 heads for higher compression?
Should I use the 350 heads?  Or do the 4A's work well??

Any help would be appreciated.

Is it worth getting Mondello's ref book?

Thanks!
Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC (considering 403 power!)
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 18:21:12 -0400
From: "John Pajak" <jspajak@us.hsanet.net>
Subject: 1987 442 For Sale!

Forwarded for a computerless friend:


1987 442. Black and Silver. Grey interior. New A.C. R-134a conversion. Tilt
Wheel, Cruise. New P215/65R15 Goodyear GT+4s. 56K Original miles. Original
paint and stripes. Refinished rear bumper. $7000 OBO Mike Vaughan.
Home (301) 737-3531   Work (301) 342-4969


P.S. I'd buy it myself if I had the $$$ This is one clean car!

John Pajak
http://drive.to/pajak

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 19:28:16 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 1975 Delta 88 Convertible

Not sure if this made it thru; forwarding. Respond to
davidfoster@mediaone.net if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	David Foster <davidfoster@mediaone.net>
Subject: 1975 Delta 88 Convertible

First time Olds owner and emailer here--I just purchased a 75 Delta
Convertible, and would love some go to advise for parts related to
interior work--the doors are loose, windows wobbly, arm rests loose,
etc. any advise appreciated!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 19:32:01 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: '71 Supreme Trim and Paint 

On Mon, 3 May 1999, Bob Valentine wrote:
> 1.  Fender scripts - on a Supreme, the only script is the "Cutlass"
> script?

Yep.

> 2.  Grilles - this is not a 442, just a Supreme.   The recesses are
> painted black, but what is everything else?  It's not just natural
> pot metal.   What color was used?  "Argent Silver"?

The ever-popular Krylon dull aluminum does a nice job on this.

> 5.  Can pot metal be re-chromed?
Yes. I had the fender tip molding on my '68 done over the winter.
Beautiful!

> 1.  I need several pieces of the body moldings.   Anyone have a source for
> them, or have any for sale?  I've tried 442.com and haven't found
> anything.

Those lower body moldings are getting very hard to find. Many past owners
drilled and screwed them on when they had problems. Be patient, some will
show up.


Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
 ---- Olds List Admin Instructions found at: http://unsub.tsx.org ----
                http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 18:34:31 -0400
From: "John Pajak" <jspajak@us.hsanet.net>
Subject: Re: 1987 442 For Sale!

Forwarded for a computerless friend: (I forgot to post the city and state
the first time around)


1987 442. Black and Silver. Grey interior. New A.C. R-134a conversion. Tilt
Wheel, Cruise. New P215/65R15 Goodyear GT+4s. 56K Original miles. Original
paint and stripes. Refinished rear bumper. $7000 OBO Mike Vaughan.
Home (301) 737-3531   Work (301) 342-4969
Lexington Park, Maryland (about 60 miles south of Washington DC)

John Pajak
http://drive.to/pajak

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 19:39:39 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Windshield Pinchweld

Reading about the fellow who had a '68 with rust holes around the
windshield pinchweld reminded me that just abut every older GM car I've
seen has the same problem, at least the ones from rust belt. So I was
wondering: does any supplier make a repair piece for this? Seems to me
that even a generic pinchweld strip with trim stud clips prewelded, that a
body shop could mold into place, might be a useful item. 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 18:42:02 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Holley Comments on the Olds List

Ed,

I caught the comments you posted on the Olds List about Holleys.  Gee, I
thought I was the only one on the list who used one!  Actually, I go back and
forth between the Q-Jet and Holley.  Anyway, I currently have the Holley on my
Cutlass and can second your comments about being snappy.  Even though I've got
mine tuned for economy, it still has more guts, even at just 600 cfm, than the
Q-Jet.  I have the good ol' 1850-3 (which I obtained free) with electric
choke, and I've milled some passageways in the throttle body so I can still
use my evaporative canister.  Just gotta love that tinkerability.

BTW, I just checked the Roll Call.  So, you're from Middlesboro.  I've been
there a few times.  Used to have family there.  I really like Kentucky, even
though I caught my first case of chiggers there :-)  I also saw you're a
Salvation Army Officer. That is very cool.

Take care.

Tom

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 18:41:04 -0400
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Re: wrist pin screws engine

No spray yet but motor was set up for it, rpm 6000  now the news on why the
pin moved. the machinist said that he pressed them in cold, I asked lynn at
mondellos and he said that under no conditions do you install an olds rod and
piston cold , hell if I knew he was going to put on cold I would have question
it . in mondellos tec mnaual it says not to install cold. what i cant
understand is how come this guys other pins are staying put.now the good news,
a new sleeve is now being instaled as i type and new rods and rings and pins
will be here thursday, so there is an Olds god after all.   butch

Peter Landowski wrote:

> What type of pistons were you running? What RPM were you taking the motor?
> Are you spraying?
>
> ----------
> > From: KarlAunan@aol.com
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Re: wrist pin screws engine
> > Date: Monday, May 03, 1999 12:43 PM
> >
> > In a message dated 99-05-02 15:25:50 EDT, you write:
> >
> > <<  pulled motor this morning and found that the wrist pin moved out to
> the
> > cyl wall. I see a sleeve and a set of new pin floating rods on the
> horizon
> > this is the last time that I listen to local machine shops, more like
> > junkyard mechaincs. the part
> >  that sucks is that I am 2nd in points as of saturday
> >                          Butch   68   442   post >>
> >
> > Oh, NO!
> >
> >

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 18:42:44 -0400
From: "John Pajak" <jspajak@us.hsanet.net>
Subject: Re: Sticky Sport Steering Wheel

Ray wrote:
John, If you have had good luck with Castrol Super Clean on your sport
wheel,
more power to ya. However, personally I wouldn't get Super Clean near
anything
rubber or soft plastic. I had an air hose that was cleaned with Super Clean
and
it hasn't been the same since. The rubber hose soaked up the Castrol and
became very sticky. When I tried to scrub the goo off, it looked like I was
removing outer layers of the hose. Eventually _most_ of the goo wore off, or
more
accurately, the Super Clean evaporated. However, the rubber in the hose has
not
returned to normal.


*********
Egads! Thanks for the info. I think I'll try some Simple Green!

John Pajak
http://drive.to/pajak

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 18:46:25 -0400
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Re: Burnout RPM

I use 2nd gear  stop in water quick spin, and move about 20 ft out of
water{turbo 400} hit it Quick and run up to 5600 and let roll out.   Butch

Kerry Kroger wrote:

> gear 2 about 3500 RPM should have the tire speed at about 65 or 70 MPH
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 3:19 PM
> Subject: Burnout RPM
>
> > I was wondering what RPM do fellow Olds 455 drivers do their burnout at
> the
> > track?
> >
> > Pettrix@prodigy.net
> >
> >

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 19:36:50 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Attn: MBloomer ....regarding HEI

    Sorry to send this to the list, but I haven't had the chance to update my 
email address book. 

Mike, I received your payment for the Oldsmobile HEI as we agreed upon. I 
appreciate your following through on the deal. I will be shipping the package 
via UPS or U.S.Mail...I'm not sure. The local "Pac-N-Mail" was closed before 
I had a chance to send it today(they close at 5:00p.m. and I didn't check my 
snail mail till just about that time. I will find out which has the better 
rates, UPS or USmail, and will ship the package ,promtly, tommarrow. In 
thanks for your response, I inclosed a little something extra...an Autometer 
amp gauge. I don't know if you have any use for it, but it didn't fit my dash 
layout...so it's yours now. :) I also have not been able to find the "plug" 
that connects the +12volts to the HEI, but this is a very inexspensive part 
that is available at any parts store...I paid less than a buck for the one I 
used...and I probably threw it away when I detached it from my car . 
Anyway,thanks for the deal and if you have any questions on the 
install...just email me. 

Collyn

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 19:48:52 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: flywheel 4-speed

Steve,

There's one on ebay but it's in California.  Wasn't there one at the Bristol
swap meet along with that $40 10-bolt posi you bought?

Dude

stephen minore wrote:

> Hey guys,
>
> I am desperatly looking for a good used 4-speed flywheel for my 70
> cutlass W-31. I put an ad on here some time ago and got one respose, but
> that deal fell through my hands because I let a considerable time go
> by!!!!
> Now i am looking again.
>
> any help would be greatly appreciated,
>
> thanks!!!!!!
>
> Stephen Minore 70 W-31 FREAK!!!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 19:56:20 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Building a 403

Martin,
Careful about upping the compression ratio too much if you're looking for lots
of low end torque.  It's easy to have problems with detonation that way.
Probably want to keep CR in the low 9s and use a short duration cam, say 203 -
210 deg @ .050.  Cubic inches and short cams make for low end grunt.

Dude

Martin Thomas-WLTM07 wrote:

> Any recommendations for building a torque monster low rpm 403?
>
> I am looking at one to replace my 350, and would like to know how to make it
> run gobs of low rpm torque.  Should I run 307 heads for higher compression?
> Should I use the 350 heads?  Or do the 4A's work well??
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Is it worth getting Mondello's ref book?
>
> Thanks!
> Thomas Martin
> 80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
> 85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC (considering 403 power!)
> 91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 20:18:48 -0400
From: Scott Parker <sparker442@banet.net>
Subject: Re: Sticky Sport Steering Wheel

My solution was to buy a "custom" leather cover for mine.  I got it from a
place in CA for about $25 and it's great.  You lace it on, like the real
thing, using a needle and special thread that they supply.  It takes a good
hour or more to get it right, but if you do it right, it fits and looks
excellent -- like a real leather wheel!  You have to measure the o.d. and
the thickness and give them that when you order because the size they have
on file is wrong. Check the ads in MCR or any car mag.  If you can't find
it, I'll see if I can dig it up...
Scott Parker
71 442 Conv.

texas442 wrote:

> Those of you who have a 4-spoke steering wheel may have experienced the
> same problem.  The steering wheels gets very sticky as though it is
> smothered in glue.  What causes this?, and are there any tricks to
> illuminate this?  Thanks.
>
> Ali Zalzala
> email:  texas442@flash.net
> http://www.flash.net/~texas442
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 20:23:26 -0400
From: Scott Parker <sparker442@banet.net>
Subject: Re: '71 Supreme Trim and Paint

Bob,

#2 -- Use Krylon "Dull Aluminum" -- a perfect match for the silver painted
plastic on Supreme and 442 grilles.
#4 -- There is an open cell foam gasket that goes between the quarter and the
extension. Available at Year One or Fusick's.
#5 -- Pot metal can be very nicely rechromed.

Can't help you on the rest...
Scott
71 442 Conv.

Bob Valentine wrote:

> I'm finally sending my '71 CS convertible to the body shop tomorrow -
> spent the whole weekend stripping all the chrome, ect.  I'm already
> starting to think about putting it back together, but some parts need some
> touchup first.  It's been so long since it was together, I've forgotten
> what goes where and what some stuff looks like.
>
> 1.  Fender scripts - on a Supreme, the only script is the "Cutlass"
> script?
>
> 2.  Grilles - this is not a 442, just a Supreme.   The recesses are
> painted black, but what is everything else?  It's not just natural
> pot metal.   What color was used?  "Argent Silver"?
>
> 3.  Body Molding - originally the doors had little studs which held the
> plastic clips.   The studs are long gone, so what do you use in place?
>
> 4.  Was any kind of gasket used between the rear 1/4 panel and the
> extension?
>
> 5.  Can pot metal be re-chromed?
>
> Two other questions:
>
> 1.  I need several pieces of the body moldings.   Anyone have a source for
> them, or have any for sale?  I've tried 442.com and haven't found
> anything.
>
> 2.  Someone on the list (from Texas, I thing) had been doing rechroming
> for a good price... I think it was going over the border.  ;^>  Are they
> still around?
>
>                      -->   Bob Valentine  <--
>                      -->  bob@tecmark.com <--
>         "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 20:23:43 EDT
From: QWKCUTLASS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Exhaust recommendations on a 72 Cutlass

Bret, first if its a a high performance 455 you'll wanna run a 3in. system, 
if its just a street engine, 2.5 should be fine.
A friend of mine has a 71 Cutlass and he put a Torque Tech pipes on it 3in., 
with Dynomax mufflers.  Its pretty quiet so if noise is a concern i would 
recomend those, as for the Flowmasters, Italked to a tech guy over there and 
he said the difference between the 2 and 3 chambers are the tone not the 
loudness,so loudness should be the same, justa different tone, i have 3 
chambers on my 455 and it sounds really good. About the headers  any brand 
will do, they all pretty much last, i'm runnin Hookers my engine.  The jet 
hot coating will drop the engine bay temp, so if  the temp is a concern do 
it.  As for ordering sources i order most of my stuff through Summit, they 
are a little cheaper than most mail order.

Sam

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 20:32:10 -0400
From: "M. Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: boneyarding a dash+in.-ex wiring harness

> hey guys and girls how ya all doin...?Ive been boneyardin a 72 cutlass
supreme
> dash got the whole thing including all interior wiring harness right to
the
> fuse box then I turned too the engin compartment harness right from the
fuse
> box got the head light frt wires plus windshield wiper motor  starter gen
alt
> or I guess reg pretty well got every wire in the car with out
disconnecting
> anything plus marking every plug I did unplug.netscape.com.

Hey Randy,
Sounds like you hit the boneyard jackpot. Good luck putting it all together.
I was unsubscribed for a few days and think I missed the end if the story of
the WZ manifolds. I know we all told you that they wouldn't work on a small
block. Did you prove us wrong? Hope so, it would be a nice upgrade to my 69
if you got yours to fit.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie, Melbourne, FL
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/~mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 20:36:07 -0400
From: Miguel Morales <Mike.Morales@wcom.com>
Subject: Lightning Rods

Be careful with those. Sometimes it seems the darn things are broke beyond
repair when in fact the rod that attaches to the steering column is either
binding or the nut that tightens the rod to the sleeve has been over-tightened.
Theyll be a b*#^h to use and they seem not to function at all to get to second
or even drive. First?, don't even try. You'll know it's related to the column
adjustment when you can rotate the column with your hand while moving the rods
and get them to work. Also a misadjusted rod the other way will not allow you 
to
slide the left-most rod all the way up to park. The shift cable to tranny nut
adjustment is also tricky. The nut should be centered but slightly ahead of
center. Hopefully, you haven't crushed the linkage against speed bumps or
anything like that. Symptoms of the cable out of adjustment are that the cable
is out so much that you can't get the left-most shifter rod to even get beyond
Neutral or OD.

I'd hate to see someone spend $3-400 on some of these unnecessarily.

Hope This helps.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 17:55:11 PDT
From: "Stephen Kays" <szapped@hotmail.com>
Subject: drag race

hey everyone, I have a 72 442, I have a drag race and burn out to go to this 
friday. I really haven't done much to the engine so I am wondering if anyone 
has suggestions what to do to get more power to get off the line faster. I 
only have tell friday so not much time and not much money either. I have 
heard disconnecting the bake brakes for the burn out will help and adding a 
little jet fuel will also help, is that safe?
thanks
  szapped@hotmail.com


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 18:05:10 -0700
From: BC <beastmaster@earthlink.net>
Subject: AM/FM Radio Rebuild

Hi,
I have a couple of late 60's Wonderbar AM/FM Radios and I would like to send 
them
out to be checked and cleaned. Do any of you have a good source for this, I 
called
one shop up in Pismo Beach and he wanted $225, I thought he was nuts afterall I
could have bought a mint condition one guaranteed to work for $200. So if any 
one
has a source I would appreciate a email, you can post to 
beastmaster@earthlink.net
if you wish to.
Thanks,
Bruce
1970 Delta88 Conv
1975 Delta88 Royale Conv
1979 Delta88 Royale HT

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 21:31:04 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: How does this car look to you?

George wrote:
> 
> What about those wheels 

Exactly.  They are late 70's/early 80's Ford LTD/Merc Marquis caps. 
14".  Poor substitutions for the two-bar spinner wire caps that were
available from Olds in '65.

I think the optional upper body molding and the non original (?) stripes
are... um... interesting.  Hopefully the stripes will peel off.

Doesn't look to bad otherwise, tho I'm concerned about those little
black spots along the front of the hood on the driver's side, inboard of
the headlights.  Could that be - the "R" word?

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 21:34:41 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...

Gene Gilpin wrote:
> 
> A 350 in a '79
> Toro sounds odd to me, but again, I don't know my ass from a Toro. Their
> not my cup of tea. 

But that's what they were.  If you think that's odd, my '81 Toronado had
the OPTIONAL 307.  Standard motor was a 252 Buick 6!

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 21:37:11 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1971 442 W30

In a message dated 5/3/99 10:52:40 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Padavano.Joe@orbital.com writes:

<< I thought the 328 degree cam was dropped in 71 due to emissions.  Wasn't it
 replaced by the 294/296 split pattern cam? >>
your alittle behind on your responses Joe...we all went through that 2 days 
ago....busy weekend huh ; )   Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 20:48:07 -0500 (CDT)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Dr. Olds - K. Wood)
Subject: Vibration Part 59

What a pain in the *ss.
The rear wheel bearing saved me a squeak but
still have the vibration.  Next I pulled off the front rotor on the
drivers side.  Broken wheel bearing.  Bearings all over the floor.  I
never heard a squeak, bump or grind in the front whatsoever.  I also
felt no vibration in the steering wheel ever either, so I am doubting
whether that has anything to do with it.

Eliminated:  Angularity due to long tail trans,
Rear wheels bearings, driveshaft, tires, rear-end, the trans itself...
Running out of ideas.  If the front wheels bearings don't do it,
I'm running out of ideas...

Any ideas?  I revved the engine up in first gear
to about 4000 rpms... No vibration-  Second gear- around 3500 I get a
little bit of a shake- 
Need to adjust timing and tune the carb a little-
does not seem to be any similar vibration as the
3300 rpm 75-80mph that I am trying to eliminate.

What's next???  Should I change the harmonic
balancer with another one I have and see if that
does anything?  I am really stumped here.

I hope to change all 4 front wheel bearings
in the next couple of days, and if that doesn't 
fix it I'm gonna part out the damn thing.  Anybody need 72 Cutlass
Supreme parts? almost everything is new now!  (Just kidding, please do
not send me parts wanted lists).
I will fix the problem if it's the last thing I do.

And it may be.

Kevin 
Dr-Olds@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 19:01:59 -0700
From: BC <beastmaster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Wire Wheels

Hi,
Has anybody had any experiences with wire wheels on their Old's. I have asked
several people and everyone says Dayton Wires are the best but I cannot find a
mention of their application on American Cars. I am thinking of running the 
Wires
on my 1970 Delta88 Conv. it is a beautiful Red with White PinStripes and
Black/White interior. I have the Olds' Wire Hub Caps which are presently on my 
75
Royale and thought of using those but I would really like to dress the old girl
for her 30 B-Day next year. I am going to get her top replaced with the 
Mercedes
Canvas in White this summer and thought Wire's with some nice thick white walls
would look tits on her. I appreciate any ideas you all can pass on and thanks.
Good Day,
Bruce
1970 Delta88 Conv
1975 Delta88 Royale Conv
1979 Delta88 Royale HT

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 21:09:55 -0500 (CDT)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Dr. Olds - K. Wood)
Subject: Parts Wanted.

Looking for A-body motor mount perches for
a 455 motor.  Anybody got some?  Seems to
me somebody somewhere was parting out an
SX a while ago.  Can't remember who that was.

Also- anybody got a used Fluidampr Harmonic
Balancer laying around and want to trade it for
cash.  I see they cost a few hundred bucks new.  Considering it probably
has nothing to
do with the vibration I am trying to beat, I don't
really want to pay full price for that one.

Any leads would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!

Kevin D. Wood
Dr-Olds@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 22:10:27 -0400
From: "Brad Nicholson" <brad442@mdo.net>
Subject: Thanks

Give Cliff a Gold Star in the editor's department!
Here is why I need you guys to check my work:
=================================================
>Hi Brad,
>not to be a pain or anything, but, I don't get the picture in the JWO
>section.  Perhaps it is something to do with the URL
>file:///C:/WEBSHARE/WWWROOT/oldsclub/images/JWO_May1999.jpg  That doesn't
look
>right to me.
>
>Have a good day,
>--
>Cliff Simpson
>mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
>'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
>http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html
==============================================================

NOW IT'S FIXED so CHECK OUT:
http://www.oldsclub.org

Brad Nicholson (OCA's WebGuy)
brad442@mdo.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 22:11:37 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: drag race

In a message dated 5/3/99 7:56:27 PM Central Daylight Time, 
szapped@hotmail.com writes:

<< hey everyone, I have a 72 442, I have a drag race and burn out to go to 
this 
 friday. I really haven't done much to the engine so I am wondering if anyone 
 has suggestions what to do to get more power to get off the line faster. I 
 only have tell friday so not much time and not much money either. I have 
 heard disconnecting the bake brakes for the burn out will help and adding a 
 little jet fuel will also help, is that safe?
 thanks >>
  

Leave the brakes connected...for safetys sake! Also, "Jet" fuel is for jets! 
Just add some 104 Octane boost and maybe bump the timing advanced a few 
degrees. Install a fresh set of sparkplugs and check the point gap and 
timing. For the burnout...borrow a buddys set of rear tires...hahaha

Collyn 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 22:15:06 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Vibration Part 59

In a message dated 5/3/99 8:49:49 PM Central Daylight Time, Dr-Olds@webtv.net 
writes:

<< I hope to change all 4 front wheel bearings
 in the next couple of days, and if that doesn't 
 fix it I'm gonna part out the damn thing.  Anybody need 72 Cutlass
 Supreme parts? almost everything is new now!  (Just kidding, please do
 not send me parts wanted lists).
 I will fix the problem if it's the last thing I do.
  >>
  Have you checked the front steering components? I had a 81 Camaro that had 
a vibration above 70mph and it was due to a worn tie rod end.

Collyn 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 22:17:09 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Wire Wheels

In a message dated 5/3/99 9:04:22 PM Central Daylight Time, 
beastmaster@earthlink.net writes:

<< Has anybody had any experiences with wire wheels on their Old's. I have 
asked
 several people and everyone says Dayton Wires are the best but I cannot find 
a
 mention of their application on American Cars. I am thinking of running the 
Wires
 on my 1970 Delta88 Conv. it is a beautiful Red with White PinStripes and
 Black/White interior. I have the Olds' Wire Hub Caps which are presently on 
my 75
 Royale and thought of using those but I would really like to dress the old 
girl
 for her 30 B-Day next year. I am going to get her top replaced with the 
Mercedes
 Canvas in White this summer and thought Wire's with some nice thick white 
walls
 would look tits on her. I appreciate any ideas you all can pass on and 
thanks.
 Good Day,
 Bruce >>
  Daytons are those HIDIOUS looking wire wheels that the votos (spl?) use on 
their low riders...you know the ones with the Rangers Bass Boat metallic 
flake paint...hahaha

Collyn

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 22:17:38 EDT
From: FIFTY7C@aol.com
Subject: tach on a '68

Can someone give me some advice on mounting a tach in a 68 Cutlass. The 
clearance between the dash and the steering wheel is minimal. Just looking 
for some creative ideas.

Thanks, 

Ray

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1939
*********************************

