Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.Ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.Ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1958


oldsmobile-digest       Saturday, May 15 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1958



Re: Tire & Wheel Prices
RE: Anyone not own a Jump N Carry?
Re: Great Midwestern Caravan of 1999.
Re: Great Midwestern Caravan of 1999.
Re: demolition man
Re: Anyone not own a Jump N Carry?
Docbob
original wheels
70 442 carb for sale & 70 Sport Mirrors
More '71 CS Chrome & body  questions
page construction 1 pic.
braided flat ground wire?
Re: 307 ? Motor
Fwd: 307 ? Motor
Hi! and Electronic Ignition Conversion kits
Re: Great Midwestern Caravan of 1999.
drain plug for 1961 olds
Re: Great Midwestern Caravan of 1999.
Re: braided flat ground wire?
Olds Page update
65-70 Big Car Wheel Offset
Re: Electronic Ignition Conversion kits
front end clunk
My clock is alive!
Re: front end clunk
Re: front end clunk
Wasps!
Re: Wasps!
RE: Wasps!
69 Fisher Body Service Manual
Re: Wasps!
RE: Wasps!
Re: 69 Fisher Body Service Manual
Re: 69 Fisher Body Service Manual
Just Wondering
Re: My clock is alive!
Bucket Seats!!!
Re: braided flat ground wire?
Re: Dome lights
Re: Dome lights
Rear Axle bearings
Re: front end clunk
Re: Wasps!
1966 olds 98 for sale
Re: Great Midwestern Caravan of 1999.
H*LP - Engine noise
Re: Great Midwestern Caravan of 1999.
Re: Great Midwestern Caravan of 1999.
ELECTRICAL H*LP - "I just got this thing back together...
Re: ELECTRICAL H*LP - "I just got this thing back together...
Re: Just Wondering

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 19:51:36 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Tire & Wheel Prices

>How much should I offer for a set of four 15" SSIIs with snap-on caps and
>four Performance Radial GT 235 60 R15s with no appreciable wear (if any at
>all?)  The wheels do not appear to have any apprecialbe damage to them,
>either.

Used wheels can be $100 a set or $100 each, depending on condition and how
bad you want them. 235/60's might be a tad short for the Delta.

>I'm thinking I would like to put these on The Party Barge - who's got an
>opinion on how this would look?

Opinions are like....uh....never mind...
2-door barges look great. 4-door's tend to look out of place with sport
wheels. Unless they have the muscle to back up the looks (like Igor's). I
don't care, I want some anyway.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 20:26:55 -0400
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Anyone not own a Jump N Carry?

Yeah, that's what it is. [see original message below]  The reason I
mentioned it is that I've used mine a few times in the past couple of weeks
and I've been reminded of how excellent a tool it is.  The Rocket sat for a
while and the battery went dead.  Well, so I just figured no big deal, I'd
jump it off the other Olds.  But I couldn't do it, not enough power from a
jump start.  Damn.  So, I pulled out the jump n carry, and it started it.
It struggled a bit, but it did it.  And I can't even remember the last time
I charged it.  If that thing can turn over a 10.5:1 comp engine with a
totally dead battery and a regular jum start can't, it earns all my respect.
Also, my tractor needs a new battery, but I haven't gotten around to getting
one in the past two years.  For a while every time I wanted--had to--cut the
grass, I'd driva a car through the yard around to the shed and jump start
the tractor.  A real pain.  But, the jump n carry is ideal.  I just carry it
over and clip it on and fire it up.

It's a great tool and everyone really should have one in my humble opinion.


Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 3.8 Calais
Bucks County, PA
mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo


> -----Original Message-----
>
>
>
> I believe a jump & Carry is a jump start in a plastic
> carring case for when your stranded on the highway or
> where ever. I seen someone on the freeway yesterday
> with what appeared to be a plastic case with a couple
> of cables coming out of the case(i think) hooked up to
> the battery. Don't know anything else about them.
>
>     Rick   Detroit
>     69 Cutlass'S'
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 20:38:00 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Great Midwestern Caravan of 1999.

riksab@postoffice.swbell.net wrote:
> 
> HELLO,i'm keeping a close eye on this thread,i live in K.C.Missouri i drive a
> 69 98
> and want to go to irving TX.in june for the meet
> Q;.

> 3.I've never been to a national meet,Which days are the most enjoyable?

All of them.  Meet opens Wed.  Judging is Friday, that's when you'll see
the most cars.  Last day is Sat.  Swap meet all days, get there early
for the good stuff.

> 4.I'm not a O.C.A member do i still get good treatment from
> hotels,parking,admission?

What?!  Not an OCA member?  Shame!

The host hotel is full.  I just tried to change my single reservation to
a double and they can't do it.  Can't even provide a roll-away.  And
they won't put my name on a waiting list in case of cancellation (which
I think is kinda rude, but is another story).  So you won't get a room
at the host hotel, tho there are other hotels close by.

I'm sure parking won't be a problem, tho they won't allow your car on
the show field unless it's registered and you have to belong to OCA to
register.  Day of show registration is allowed, but won't be judged. 
You may be able to join and register at the same time, but don't know
that for sure.

Admission is no problem at all.  There is no charge.  Just walk right
in.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 20:40:52 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Great Midwestern Caravan of 1999.

KarlAunan@aol.com wrote:

> Sunday night, St. Lou (or was that Master Lou?)
> Monday night, dunno.

Hey, that sounds pretty good.  I've been looking for a spot for Monday
night.  Where is dunno?  Having trouble deciding here.  We'll be in
Bowling Green, KY Sunday night, touring the Corvette plant and Museum
Monday morn.  Then driving a piece.  But can't decide where to call it a
night.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 18:52:19 -0600
From: "Jeff Newman" <newsance@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: demolition man

"I keep watching the credits for a "No cars were harmed in the making of
this movie" line but they don't seem to care about these things.  I
propose that we start a People for the Ethical Treatment Of Oldsmobiles
and Youngmobiles (PETOOY).  Then we will have a united voice to make our
concern over the senseless slaughter of innocent cars known.  And as an
added bonus, if you see a 442 or H/O neglected or powered by a Chebby
engine than you can "liberate" it late at night without feeling guilty.

Whaddya say, anyone want to you the PETOOY bandwagon while it's still
just us regular Joe's and we don't have celebrity hangers on?  I'm sure
in a few years we can have Pam Anderson in a bathing suit filming
commercials about the senseless crushing of cars."

I think it should be People for the Ethical Treatment Of Oldmobiles and
Oldsmobile Engines. For one,  I could join in, ('84 park ave, olds 307) And
PETOOE sounds so much cooler.


________________________________________________________
NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet.  Shouldn't you?
Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 18:22:04 -0700
From: "Andrew Conkey" <andrewc@novell.uidaho.edu>
Subject: Re: Anyone not own a Jump N Carry?

Back in a former life... I worked at a chevy dealership. We had one -
 it was basically a car battery and charger mounted on a dolly cart. 
We used it all the time to start the *brand new* cars that were 
dead from sitting on the lot.... We would leave it plugged in until 
needed.....

Date sent:      	Fri, 14 May 1999 14:10:33 -0700 (PDT)
From:           	Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject:        	Re: Anyone not own a Jump N Carry?
To:             	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Send reply to:  	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

> Since I don't know what one is.....I must not own one.
> 
> 
> --- Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com> wrote:
> > At 10:08 AM 5/14/99, you wrote:
> > >Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 23:43:26 -0400
> > >steve harris wrote:
> > >
> > >>AHHHHHHHH  ewhats a jumpin carrie
> > >___________________________________
> > >
> > >Well, if I got a trampoline and used it, I'd be a
> > jumpin' Carri.
> > >Close enough?
> > >
> > >-John Carri
> > >'72 Supreme
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > So does that mean you got one? Or your might get
> > one? 
> > 
> > BTW I second the what the hell is it question.
> > 
> > Omega Man
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
> ===
> Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> rockman20@yahoo.com
> 1986 Honda Accord DX
> 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
> 1981 John Deer Snowmobile
> 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
> 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
> _____________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 22:19:04 -0400
From: "Wayne Schwartz" <wschwart@cgocable.net>
Subject: Docbob

Had a crash and lost you E mail address.  E mail me.  Need parts.

Wayne

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 22:42:37 EDT
From: NPols442@aol.com
Subject: original wheels

    I'm looking for original 442 wheels in new condition for my 1985 442 
restoration, any info. would be appreciated.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 22:58:38 EDT
From: James244@aol.com
Subject: 70 442 carb for sale & 70 Sport Mirrors

I have a 70 442 carb for sale, it needs to be rebuilt and has a heli-coil in 
the fuel inlet. The carb # is 7040251, The Mirrors are in good shape and have 
had the old paint removed, with all screws & bolts for installation. Please 
email me for more info at James244@aol.com

Thanks
James Newton
69 442 4 spd
86 442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 23:56:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: More '71 CS Chrome & body  questions

Thanks for all the replies to my last set of body & trim questions... I
almost forgot about this stuff since I spend most of the time under the
hood.  A few more followups if I may:

1.  Supreme uses the shorter wheel well moldings, which only come down to
the wide chrome strip, correct?   The standard S moldings go all the way
down to the bottom of the wheel well.

2.  Which rocket emblem goes on the stone shield?  I've got a hollow
chrome one, and one where the "inside" of the rocket is solid and painted
black.  Both have the same measurements.

3.  Was a Oldsmobile script used on the trunk panel on CS cars?   I see in
the Year One (meaning their parts are good only for One Year.....) they
list one. I thought the CS used only the Oldsmobile spelled out in
individual letters.

4.  How do you attach "unassembled" repro door panels to your old door
panels? The factory ones look stapled somehow.

5.  Any experience with the repro moldings for the front of the grills?  

Side note, the body moldings really look good after hitting them with the
buffing wheel.  They can take a suprising amount of buffing without
removing the chrome - really!  The stainless pieces (door, door to front
wheel well) can be made to look like new, just go crazy with the buffer
and start with really course buffing compound.  This also applies for the
wheelwell moldings.

My buffer is nothing fancy - just a wheel bolted to a old 3450rpm motor.
Used white rouge on the diecast parts, then some Noxon to remove any of
the leftover buffing compound.   Turned a bunch of trashcan-ready pieces
into darn near show quality stuff.

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    -->   bob@tecmark.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

Date: 14 May 99 21:55:35 PDT
From: Randy Hermsen <76Cutlass@netscape.net>
Subject: page construction 1 pic.

Hey there guys,
      My lady has been working on a web page for me. 
It is her first, only one picture of me and my 76 Cutlass Supreme.

 Not that much. By the middle of the week there will be better ones,
even of the 72 Cutlass Supreme Conv. that I bought for $200.00
LoL




Randy 

http://mypage.goplay.com/Cutlass72-76/


____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://webmail.netscape.com.

------------------------------

Date: 14 May 99 22:10:08 PDT
From: Randy Hermsen <76Cutlass@netscape.net>
Subject: braided flat ground wire?

Hey

I over heard in an earlier post... attaching the engine braided ground wire
(back of engine) to firewall.. 
found it on my 76 no big flat braided ground wire going to firewall on my 72
 350 cutlass conv.. 
ummm..... whats up with that?
lol 

thank for any info

Randy

76 Cutlass Supreme 
72 Cutlass Supreme Conv..


____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://webmail.netscape.com.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 02:00:34 EDT
From: BvilleStew@aol.com
Subject: Re: 307 ? Motor

 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 02:05:21 EDT
From: BvilleStew@aol.com
Subject: Fwd: 307 ? Motor

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Return-path: BvilleStew@aol.com
From: BvilleStew@aol.com
Full-name: BvilleStew
Message-ID: <12f6095.246a5c76@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 00:24:22 EDT
Subject: 307 ? Motor
To: oldsgmail@mailinglist.net
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: AOL 4.0 for Windows 95 sub 10

   I have a 81 Riveria with a 307 in it. Any idea which heads are on it? 
Which digit is the engine code? This car has been my winter beater from 88 to 
98. Gave it a valve job and a new cam 25,000 miles ago. What other engines 
will these heads fit? It runs great & I hate to just throw it away.
I'm going to send it to the bone yard soon as the body has just "given up" 
(salt dip winters) Is it worth pulling the engine for later use or just say 
"Good Bye"? 
    
   Mike
85 Salon (Waiting for it's 455)
X-owner
69 442
68 H/O
67 98 LS
66 L-69

- --part1_12f6095.246e68a1_boundary--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 03:21:06 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Hi! and Electronic Ignition Conversion kits

In a message dated 99-05-14 16:51:48 EDT, you write:

<< Hello all, I'm new to the list and I have a '65 Cutlass 442 Holiday Coupe.
 I want to know if I can use a later model GM HEI distributor in my '65 400?  
Can I use any olds V8 dizzy or does it hafta be a  big block? >>

Hi Bob!  
(uh, right?)

Nice car!

The late GM stuff doesn't fit so good in the earlier cars.
The big problem is interference with the air cleaner shroud, as the HEI 
distributer is substantially wider than the breaker points type.
That is part of the reason for the Elecronic Ignition Conversion, it fits 
inside the space of a breaker points type distributor, so that you do hot 
have to do ..... well ...... questionable things to the air cleaner shroud.

Think the later cars used smaller air cleaners to accommodate.
Ummmmm, right gang?


Right?


SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 03:21:25 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Great Midwestern Caravan of 1999.

In a message dated 99-05-14 20:42:20 EDT, you write:

<<<<  Sunday night, St. Lou (or was that Master Lou?)
 Monday night, dunno. >>>>
 
<< Hey, that sounds pretty good.  I've been looking for a spot for Monday 
night.  Where is dunno?  Having trouble deciding here.  We'll be in Bowling 
Green, KY. .....  Then driving a piece.  But can't decide where to call it a 
night. >>

Looks like 269 miles St. Lou to KC.
Not bad, short drive leaves time to socialize, et alii.

This leaves three possibilities:
1) Cover 560 miles of dull landscape 'tween there and Dallas next day.
     C'mon its only a 7 hour drive at 85 mph!
2) Make a brief stoppover at KC, with a further drive of 200 miles to Wichita.
     Only 371 miles to Dallas from there.
3) There is no third thing. (A jaunt to Soldier is more than 100 miles each 
way)

Twice as far, though, from Bowling Green (sewing machine!) to KC, not to 
mention heading in a rather ~away~ from Texas direction, due to interstates 
headed in inconvenient directions. Further, it only adds to the 700 or so 
miles to TX from Bowling Green that Paul has left to go to reach Dallas, 
through the more interesting lanscapes of Tennesee and Arkansas.

So, Paul, wanna take a longer, less interesting, trip that goes farther out 
of your way?

We'll do Lunch!
(Rather quickly whilst we pump gas.....)

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 06:45:16 -0500
From: lkrystal@inil.com (lkrystal)
Subject: drain plug for 1961 olds

I have a 1961 Olds Dynamic 88. I went to change the oil and (this may
sound like I'me
nuts) but I don't know what kind of drain plug it has. It looks like a
splined female bolt of
some kind and used an o-ring for sealing. I've worked on cars all my
life as a "backyard
mechanic" but have never seen a plug like this.
If anyone knows what type of wrench is required to remove this plug ,
please e-mail
me at lkrystal@inil.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 09:20:53 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Great Midwestern Caravan of 1999.

KarlAunan@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 99-05-14 20:42:20 EDT, you write:
>
> <<<<  Sunday night, St. Lou (or was that Master Lou?)
>  Monday night, dunno. >>>>
>
> << Hey, that sounds pretty good.  I've been looking for a spot for Monday
> night.  Where is dunno?  Having trouble deciding here.  We'll be in Bowling
> Green, KY. .....  Then driving a piece.  But can't decide where to call it a
> night. >>
>
> Looks like 269 miles St. Lou to KC.
> Not bad, short drive leaves time to socialize, et alii.
>
> This leaves three possibilities:
> 1) Cover 560 miles of dull landscape 'tween there and Dallas next day.
>      C'mon its only a 7 hour drive at 85 mph!
> 2) Make a brief stoppover at KC, with a further drive of 200 miles to 
Wichita.
>      Only 371 miles to Dallas from there.
> 3)

I don't s'pose it would be possible for ya'll to make a quick swing through
Washington D.C?  I mean, hey, it's only 800 miles, roughly, from Chicago and 
about
950 from St. Louis.  So, whadya say guys?  It shouldn't put ya more than 36 
hours,
round trip, out of your way.  Actually, that's minivan loaded with kids speed.
For big Olds loaded with rowdy Rocket drivers speed, it shouldn't put you out 
of
your way more than, say, 20 minutes!

- ---
Thomas P. Smith
  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/dual exhaust/
        sometimes Q-Jet, sometimes Holley/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 10:01:47 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: braided flat ground wire?

found it on my 76 no big flat braided ground wire going to firewall on my 72
350 cutlass conv..
ummm..... whats up with that?

- ------------------------------------------

Gotta ground the body somehow. My 82 V-6 had a ground wire from the battery
cable to the front fender, and a wimpy braided cable from the engine to
firewall.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 09:16:11 -0500 (EST)
From: hurst455@webtv.net (Corey Putnam)
Subject: Olds Page update

   Thought the list might want to check it out. I`ve just finished a
page about my new engine including the complete dyno numbers and some
in-process photos. Let me know what you think.

Corey Putnam
75 H/O W-30(my way)
87 Regal w/Olds 455
H/OCA #0915A
OCC #0208
OCA #031264
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 07:25:41 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: 65-70 Big Car Wheel Offset

All
I found out yesterday that my front tires must go. This took me back into
the wheel/tire debate. 

Do any of you know what backspacing or offset 14" wheels would need to go to
a 7" or 8" rim from the factory 6" for the late 60's 88/98/Starfires? I know
the wheel needs to be 5 X 5 on the lug pattern, different from the Cutlass. 

I'm teetering on the edge of just going to 15 X 7 or 15 X 8 wheels just so I
can swap over to disk brakes down the line, but really like the 14" rim
hubcaps from 66 (the deluxe vaned ones-cool). 

THoughts?

cf

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 09:44:53 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Electronic Ignition Conversion kits

Hello all, I'm new to the list and I have a '65 Cutlass 442 Holiday Coupe.
I want to know if I can use a later model GM HEI distributor in my '65 400?
Can I use any olds V8 dizzy or does it hafta be a  big block?

Any Olds dist will physically bolt in.  To go the HEI route, you need a
pre-computer version.  Other than that all you need is to supply a
switched 12V to the "Bat" terminal of the HEI and your good to go.
I just did the conversion and used a relay triggered by the original
resistor wire, and a 12 gauge wire straight from the battery through
the relay to the dist.  Works well and gives max current.  Make sure
you look real close at any dist you find in the yard, particularly the
shaft bushings and the centrifugal advance pins.  This is where they
tend to wear out the most.  Though it is fixable you'll spend more in
the long run than if you just buy a complete dist (like an Accel) from
Summit or Jegs.  Takes away a lot of headaches, too.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 10:50:59 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: front end clunk

If this problem is as hard to diagnose as it is to describe, I'm in trouble.

Backing down the driveway, I turn the wheel sharp to enter the street,
sometimes run over the curb (oops). When the front wheel comes down over the
curb, I get a "clunk" that I can feel in the steering wheel.

I had a front end alignment a year ago, they replaced the center link.
Steering seems tight with very little play. I get no clunks going over bumps
while normal driving. Only going slow, with the wheels turned sharp.

Monroe shocks are 15,000 miles old. The 85 Delta has 146,000.

Any Ideas?

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 10:12:56 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: My clock is alive!

Well, after getting really bored on duty last night I decided to 
pull the clock out of my 68 and play with it.  Ever since I bought
the car it would run about 5 seconds per week.  I remembered
seeing a post a while back about fogging the mechanicals with
WD-40 if the solenoid was good.  Well when I tested it, I didn't
hear a thunk or anything else to indicate the solenoid was working
though I did get continuity through the wiring.  Being the brave soul
(or conversely a dumb @ss, depending on whether I fix it or break
it worse) that I am, I took the clock apart mainly so I could see how
it worked (admit it, you do it too!).  I found to contacts on the solenoid
that were burnt so I pretended they were points and filed em down.
Bench tested it and the solenoid wound it up but it wouldn't tick.  
Remembering the WD-40 trick, I tried it and it shook the clock a 
couple times and it started ticking.  Hallelujah!  Stuck it back in the
car and over 8 hours so far it's 3 minutes too fast.  For whoever 
suggested the WD-40 and all the other info included in that post, 
thank you very much.  I managed to get my clock fully functional for
a grand investment of two bulbs (now that it's working, I want to see
it!).  Now as long as it adjusts itself for accuracy I'll be set.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 11:55:43 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: front end clunk

In a message dated 5/15/99 10:53:28 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
david.cullen@snet.net writes:

<< Backing down the driveway, I turn the wheel sharp to enter the street,
 sometimes run over the curb (oops). When the front wheel comes down over the
 curb, I get a "clunk" >>
Well I would say , dont run over the curb......probably the tire hitting 
somewhere...or coil spring binding..Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 12:35:26 -0400
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: front end clunk

Check your upper control arms and see if the shims have fallen out on one
side or a bushing has parted company or both. I had the same symptoms and I
found that the shims had fallen out.

- -----Original Message-----

>
>If this problem is as hard to diagnose as it is to describe, I'm in
trouble.
>
>Backing down the driveway, I turn the wheel sharp to enter the street,
>sometimes run over the curb (oops). When the front wheel comes down over
the
>curb, I get a "clunk" that I can feel in the steering wheel.
>
>I had a front end alignment a year ago, they replaced the center link.
>Steering seems tight with very little play. I get no clunks going over
bumps
>while normal driving. Only going slow, with the wheels turned sharp.
>
>Monroe shocks are 15,000 miles old. The 85 Delta has 146,000.
>
>Any Ideas?
>
>drc
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 12:31:15 -0400
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Wasps!

List,
	I went out to work on the 66 Dynamic today for the first time this 
season.
Much to my dismay...it seems that wasps are as interested in the car as I
am. This makes it very difficult to do anything knowing that the little
aliens could be ready to strike at any time. I have no idea where they
might be nesting but after I started the car, they started to appear
everywhere.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
					R. Kevin Noon
					66 Dynamic 88 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 12:36:09 -0700
From: "Peter Berusch" <berusch@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Wasps!

Waps are territorial creatures and will come home to their nest.  If they
know where it is, that is.  Move your car a few times, leaving it parked 24
hours each time.  The first time you move it, or just prior to, set off a
wasp bomb in the car with the windows up.  If the nest is inside the car,
most will be dead before the first blow is struck.  If the wasps in question
are mud daubers, it's no big deal, because they don't sting.  If they are
not mud dsaubers, watch your @ss, because they DO sting.  Again and again.
I'm swelling up just thinking about it.  Good luck.  Peter.






>List,
> I went out to work on the 66 Dynamic today for the first time this season.
>Much to my dismay...it seems that wasps are as interested in the car as I
>am. This makes it very difficult to do anything knowing that the little
>aliens could be ready to strike at any time. I have no idea where they
>might be nesting but after I started the car, they started to appear
>everywhere.
>Any suggestions would be appreciated.
> R. Kevin Noon
> 66 Dynamic 88 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 13:00:47 -0400
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Wasps!

How about just living peacefully with them.  Can't you all just get along?!
You both like Oldsmobiles.  Who cares if they're black and yellow?


Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 3.8 Calais
Bucks County, PA
mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo


> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of rkn
> Sent: Saturday, May 15, 1999 12:31 PM
> To: olds list
> Subject: Wasps!
>
>
> List,
> 	I went out to work on the 66 Dynamic today for the first
> time this season.
> Much to my dismay...it seems that wasps are as interested in the car as I
> am. This makes it very difficult to do anything knowing that the little
> aliens could be ready to strike at any time. I have no idea where they
> might be nesting but after I started the car, they started to appear
> everywhere.
> Any suggestions would be appreciated.
> 					R. Kevin Noon
> 					66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 14:27:31 -0400
From: "Wayne Schwartz" <wschwart@cgocable.net>
Subject: 69 Fisher Body Service Manual

I've got an opportunity to buy the above service manual.  It covers all 69
GM cars.  It's original GM and moderately used.  All pages intact.  Does
anyone know what a fair price might be.  This will complete my set of
manuals for my 69.  Wayne Schwartz

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 13:37:40 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Wasps!

I had a 67 Mustang with the same problem.  I picked them off one by one
(those cans of wasp spray can shoot amazingly far) until I had reduced
their number to a manageable level.  Then I started to watch the ones that
were coming back to the car.  The all crawled inbetween the pass side
fender and door.  After a brief search I found their nest between the fender
and the body almost where you couldn't see it.  Used a car antenna as a
poker after I had thouroughly drenched it in wasp spray.  Wear long sleeves
and gloves to minimize exposed skin.  I didn't get stung once but I also
took
my time and ran into the house more than once!

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/


>List,
> I went out to work on the 66 Dynamic today for the first time this season.
>Much to my dismay...it seems that wasps are as interested in the car as I
>am. This makes it very difficult to do anything knowing that the little
>aliens could be ready to strike at any time. I have no idea where they
>might be nesting but after I started the car, they started to appear
>everywhere.
>Any suggestions would be appreciated.
> R. Kevin Noon
> 66 Dynamic 88 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 13:09:54 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: RE: Wasps!

At 01:00 PM 5/15/99 -0400, you wrote:
>How about just living peacefully with them.  Can't you all just get along?!
>You both like Oldsmobiles.  Who cares if they're black and yellow?

Too funny.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88  RB                   (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 12:30:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: "R.Strachan" <creature48212@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 69 Fisher Body Service Manual

I just bought a 1970 Fisher Body Manual and Chassis 
Service Manual for 29.75 on Ebay. I think I got a
pretty good deal. There was two 1969 Chassis Service
manual only and they went for 40.00. Check Ebay for it
and see what thier going for. 

    Rick

- --- Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@cgocable.net> wrote:
> I've got an opportunity to buy the above service
> manual.  It covers all 69
> GM cars.  It's original GM and moderately used.  All
> pages intact.  Does
> anyone know what a fair price might be.  This will
> complete my set of
> manuals for my 69.  Wayne Schwartz
> 
> 

_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 12:30:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: "R.Strachan" <creature48212@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 69 Fisher Body Service Manual

I just bought a 1970 Fisher Body Manual and Chassis 
Service Manual for 29.75 on Ebay. I think I got a
pretty good deal. There was two 1969 Chassis Service
manual only and they went for 40.00. Check Ebay for it
and see what thier going for. 

    Rick

- --- Wayne Schwartz <wschwart@cgocable.net> wrote:
> I've got an opportunity to buy the above service
> manual.  It covers all 69
> GM cars.  It's original GM and moderately used.  All
> pages intact.  Does
> anyone know what a fair price might be.  This will
> complete my set of
> manuals for my 69.  Wayne Schwartz
> 
> 

_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 12:40:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: "R.Strachan" <creature48212@yahoo.com>
Subject: Just Wondering

Hi,I don't know if anybody can answer this, but I was
wondering how many people there is on this list. I
guess this goes to Greg . Is there a Chat Room
associated with this list?
   
    Rick

_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 12:47:56 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: My clock is alive!

>I found two contacts on the solenoid that were burnt so I pretended
>they were points and filed em down.

Well... they _are_ points. Filing them is a good idea.

>For whoever suggested the WD-40 and all the other info included
>in that post, thank you very much.

You're welcome.  :-)

>Now as long as it adjusts itself for accuracy I'll be set.

It's only adjustments of about 20 minutes or more in either direction that 
will change the regulator by any noticeable amount, so correcting it by only 
five minutes or so every day won't improve its timekeeping accuracy. You 
might try doing minor corrections by cranking it _past_ the time you want by 
maybe 30 minutes or so, then backing up to the right time. A little 
experimenting will help...

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 12:50:03 -0700
From: BC <beastmaster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Bucket Seats!!!

I saw this ad and thought somebody on the list might need seats...........


               OLDSMOBILE, 1971-72, black bucket seats only out of
               cutlass, in original exc cond, $500 obo 703-878-7297
               WOODBRIDGE,VA 124404wacoj(10)
               Location: Woodbridge, VA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 15:56:17 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: braided flat ground wire?

If you dont have one you need to put one in.  It doesnt hurt to place
another ground strap from the body to the frame either.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Randy Hermsen <76Cutlass@netscape.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, May 15, 1999 1:10 AM
Subject: braided flat ground wire?


> Hey
>
> I over heard in an earlier post... attaching the engine braided ground
wire
> (back of engine) to firewall..
> found it on my 76 no big flat braided ground wire going to firewall on my
72
>  350 cutlass conv..
> ummm..... whats up with that?
> lol
>
> thank for any info
>
> Randy
>
> 76 Cutlass Supreme
> 72 Cutlass Supreme Conv..
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________________
> Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at
http://webmail.netscape.com.
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 12:55:39 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dome lights

>I plan on tracing the wiring for the interior lights from back to
>front to see if I can find out where it's grounding.

Well, you know the orange power side is working, so you can focus on the 
lamp housings and the (white?) switched-ground wires running from the lamps 
to the pinswitches.

Unless the lamps mount into only cardboard, plastic or vinyl housings, it 
might be worth trying to uninstall them and see if they operate properly 
when hanging loose by their wires. If they do, your problem is that they're 
grounding themselves through their mounts straight into the body, and you 
can focus on how to re-install them with insulation in the proper place(s), 
to isolate the lamp housings from the grounded metal body.

Otherwise, I think you will indeed be stuck tracing the switched-ground 
circuit, because that must be the path to ground that's keeping these bulbs 
lit. Somewhere the switched-ground wires might have chafed through, or maybe 
someone spliced them together with another circuit which is providing a 
ground path. Have fun...

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 16:26:23 -0400
From: "Wayne Schwartz" <wschwart@cgocable.net>
Subject: Re: Dome lights

Thanks for the advice Andy.  Wayne
- -----Original Message-----
From: Andrew C. Green <acg_o@hotmail.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, May 15, 1999 3:56 PM
Subject: Re: Dome lights


>>I plan on tracing the wiring for the interior lights from back to
>>front to see if I can find out where it's grounding.
>
>Well, you know the orange power side is working, so you can focus on the
>lamp housings and the (white?) switched-ground wires running from the lamps
>to the pinswitches.
>
>Unless the lamps mount into only cardboard, plastic or vinyl housings, it
>might be worth trying to uninstall them and see if they operate properly
>when hanging loose by their wires. If they do, your problem is that they're
>grounding themselves through their mounts straight into the body, and you
>can focus on how to re-install them with insulation in the proper place(s),
>to isolate the lamp housings from the grounded metal body.
>
>Otherwise, I think you will indeed be stuck tracing the switched-ground
>circuit, because that must be the path to ground that's keeping these bulbs
>lit. Somewhere the switched-ground wires might have chafed through, or
maybe
>someone spliced them together with another circuit which is providing a
>ground path. Have fun...
>
>-- Andy
>
>
>_______________________________________________________________
>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 14:50:16 -0600
From: "Travis Adams" <olds442@mcn.net>
Subject: Rear Axle bearings

While putting my axles back in the housing I managed to separate one.  This
turned out to be a good thing because what I saw would have definitely been
a problem.  The inside of the bearing was severely pitted and scored.  My
question is,  Has anyone replaced axle bearings before and where did you get
them?  Also what about doing a complete axle swap.  For big block Olds power
it would seem wise to get some hi performance axles and bearings.  Anyone do
this?  What company did you go with?

Thanks in advance,
Travis Adams
65 442 Sports Coupe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 17:15:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: front end clunk

> Backing down the driveway, I turn the wheel sharp to enter the street,
> sometimes run over the curb (oops). When the front wheel comes down over the
> curb, I get a "clunk" that I can feel in the steering wheel.

> Any Ideas?

I've had this in most GM RWD cars.   It's usually upper control arm
bushings.  Sometimes it's the lowers...  I've also seen the brake caliper
make this noise, usually when the mounting pins get worn.

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    -->   bob@tecmark.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 17:26:25 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: Wasps!

> 	I went out to work on the 66 Dynamic today for the first time this 
season.
> Much to my dismay...it seems that wasps are as interested in the car as I

Wasps love to make nests in door jambs, and in the front fender.   You
usually find this out the hard way by opening the suspect door.  ;^>

Wait until it's cool outside (dawn or midnight is a good time) and open
each door with the bug spray armed & ready.   Spray down the little
beasties and watch them die....  I've also seen them inside body panels -
like in the hood frame or even inside doors.

FYI, the best wasp killer is gasoline.  Yep, beats any canned stuff, but
does tend to leave marks on the paint.  Unlike spray, gasoline seems to
drop them INSTANTLY, and you get to watch them wiggle & die for about 5
minutes.   Light'em up for more fun!  

> 					R. Kevin Noon
> 					66 Dynamic 88 Convertible

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    -->   bob@tecmark.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 16:47:22 -0500
From: Conny J Todd <ctctctct@swbell.net>
Subject: 1966 olds 98 for sale

I have a one owner 1966 Oldsmobile 98 Luxury Sedan  with 55000 miles for
sale. The car has new radial tires and is in very good condition . The
color of the car is silver and has a black vinyl top. I will be glad to
deliver at no cost to the buyer. 
If you know of anyone who maybe interested please have them contact me
at (816)781-8297 or (816)792-2222 or contact me by email at
ctctctct@swbell.net.

My asking price is $5500.00.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 17:07:34 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Great Midwestern Caravan of 1999.

Four hours from my door to K.C.,15 min to St. Lou. The Missouri, Kansas run
is a bit dull. especially Kansas, donno how far to St. Lou. from Bowling
Green. St. Lou overnight is not a bad stay, I know where to get good food
and definitely all the topless joints!!!!!!! 
Lou

- ----------
> From: KarlAunan@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca; KS7RACING@aol.com
> Subject: Re: Great Midwestern Caravan of 1999.
> << Hey, that sounds pretty good.  I've been looking for a spot for Monday

> night.  Where is dunno?  Having trouble deciding here.  We'll be in
Bowling 
> Green, KY. .....  Then driving a piece.  But can't decide where to call
it a 
> night. >>
> 
> Looks like 269 miles St. Lou to KC.
> Not bad, short drive leaves time to socialize, et alii.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 17:32:50 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: H*LP - Engine noise

Hi.

My 1984 307 is making a noise, and I'm hoping that the list can tell me
what it is.  The noise is a rhythmic knocking noise, seemingly from the
bottom end, that is most appearant when the engine reaches operating
temperature (in fact, I don't think it's even present at start-up, or in
the few minutes immediately thereafter ).  The noise changes in "knocks per
minute" relative to engine speed, but it does not change in pitch.

I was *hoping* that it was an exhaust leak of some kind, but I have pretty
much ruled that out - I am now suspecting a rather unfortunate dead cylinder.

KEY POINT (Why I'm writing the E-mail) - I was playing with the car today,
and I pulled the spark plug wire off the #2 cylinder (farthest forward,
passenger's side), AND THE NOISE WENT AWAY.  When I did this the engine
obviously started to run rougher than normal, and when I put the wire back
on I got (a) smoother operation and (b) the noise again.  I tried this with
other plug wires (but not all of them), but all I got was a rougher idle
(with the noise still present).

Who's got the answers?
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88  RB                   (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 18:56:48 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Great Midwestern Caravan of 1999.

Lou Biggs wrote:

>  I know where to get good food
> and definitely all the topless joints!!!!!!!
> Lou

I assumed that was a given.

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 18:56:01 -0700
From: "Peter Berusch" <berusch@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Great Midwestern Caravan of 1999.

Definetely my kind of guy.  Peter.




>Lou Biggs wrote:
>
>>  I know where to get good food
>> and definitely all the topless joints!!!!!!!
>> Lou
>
>I assumed that was a given.
>
>Mark
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 18:01:03 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: ELECTRICAL H*LP - "I just got this thing back together...

I'm not gonna' let anybody tear it apart!" - Empire

I need some assistance.  I have a problem that developed two nights ago and
has not "gone away" like I hoped - it involves some SERIOUSLY funky
behavior by my dashboard lights.

For those of you just tuning in, I'm Brian, 1984 Delta 88 Royale Brougham
4-door.  I recently did a few repairs to my car that are possible culprits
of the problem I'm about to describe - namely , I replaced the braided
grounding strap, in the engine compartment, that ran from the firewall to
the back of the block below the driver's side head, and I recently added a
factory gage package to my car (my car does NOT have the Y67 reminder
package).  Both of these repairs were done approx. 1 week ago, with no
appearant problems (until this one).

WITH HEADLIGHTS OFF - 

no problems.  The hazzard lights don't blink (but they havn't for some
time).  The fuel gage and both turn signals work correctly.

WHEN I TURN THE HEADLIGHTS ON - 

the speedo cluster lights are _dramatically_ reduced from normal
brilliance.  This despite the fact that the gage lights and the A/C control
lights are normal - dimming the interior lights with the rotary knob causes
the speedo lights to go from zero (off) to their current messed-up level,
but no higher.  I have full range of "dimming control" with the gage and
A/C lights, from zero to their full (and normal) brilliance.

Along with the "not-bright" speedo cluster lights, both turn signals and
the bright indicator are semi-lit up (about the same percentage of their
normal brilliance as the speedo-cluster lights are).

The "Fasten Seat Belts" light (which is not supposed to work at all in my
car, but still has occasionally come on for short periods of time, and for
no appearant reason) is now BARELY illuminated whenever either the
headlights or running lights are on.

Using the turn-signal (in either direction) causes BOTH turn signals AND
the bright indicator AND the "Fasten Seat Belt" light to flash a little
brighter, as the speedo cluster lights go out entirely. 

Turning the brights on causes no change in the bright indicator (so still
kind of semi-illuminated) , causes both turn indicators to light up to
their full brilliance, and causes the speedo cluster lights to go off
entirely.

The fuel gage "shorts out" and pegs at zero as soon as you pull the
headlight knob (to either running lights only or headlights).  Turning the
headlights back off causes the the fuel gage to function correctly.

THERE ARE NO OPERATIONAL PROBLEMS WITH EXTERNAL LIGHTS - in other words,
even though signaling to either the right or left causes the dashboard to
act like a crack addict, both the front and rear turn signals work
properly.  Same thing with the brights - the dashboard completely shuts
down, but the brights come on.

Pretty weird, huh?  Who's got the answers?
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88  RB                   (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 19:24:21 -0700
From: "Peter Berusch" <berusch@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: ELECTRICAL H*LP - "I just got this thing back together...

Try an independent ground for the speedo.  Peter.



>I'm not gonna' let anybody tear it apart!" - Empire
>
>I need some assistance.  I have a problem that developed two nights ago and
>has not "gone away" like I hoped - it involves some SERIOUSLY funky
>behavior by my dashboard lights.
>
>For those of you just tuning in, I'm Brian, 1984 Delta 88 Royale Brougham
>4-door.  I recently did a few repairs to my car that are possible culprits
>of the problem I'm about to describe - namely , I replaced the braided
>grounding strap, in the engine compartment, that ran from the firewall to
>the back of the block below the driver's side head, and I recently added a
>factory gage package to my car (my car does NOT have the Y67 reminder
>package).  Both of these repairs were done approx. 1 week ago, with no
>appearant problems (until this one).
>
>WITH HEADLIGHTS OFF -
>
>no problems.  The hazzard lights don't blink (but they havn't for some
>time).  The fuel gage and both turn signals work correctly.
>
>WHEN I TURN THE HEADLIGHTS ON -
>
>the speedo cluster lights are _dramatically_ reduced from normal
>brilliance.  This despite the fact that the gage lights and the A/C control
>lights are normal - dimming the interior lights with the rotary knob causes
>the speedo lights to go from zero (off) to their current messed-up level,
>but no higher.  I have full range of "dimming control" with the gage and
>A/C lights, from zero to their full (and normal) brilliance.
>
>Along with the "not-bright" speedo cluster lights, both turn signals and
>the bright indicator are semi-lit up (about the same percentage of their
>normal brilliance as the speedo-cluster lights are).
>
>The "Fasten Seat Belts" light (which is not supposed to work at all in my
>car, but still has occasionally come on for short periods of time, and for
>no appearant reason) is now BARELY illuminated whenever either the
>headlights or running lights are on.
>
>Using the turn-signal (in either direction) causes BOTH turn signals AND
>the bright indicator AND the "Fasten Seat Belt" light to flash a little
>brighter, as the speedo cluster lights go out entirely.
>
>Turning the brights on causes no change in the bright indicator (so still
>kind of semi-illuminated) , causes both turn indicators to light up to
>their full brilliance, and causes the speedo cluster lights to go off
>entirely.
>
>The fuel gage "shorts out" and pegs at zero as soon as you pull the
>headlight knob (to either running lights only or headlights).  Turning the
>headlights back off causes the the fuel gage to function correctly.
>
>THERE ARE NO OPERATIONAL PROBLEMS WITH EXTERNAL LIGHTS - in other words,
>even though signaling to either the right or left causes the dashboard to
>act like a crack addict, both the front and rear turn signals work
>properly.  Same thing with the brights - the dashboard completely shuts
>down, but the brights come on.
>
>Pretty weird, huh?  Who's got the answers?
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -
>Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
>MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
>2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
>Austin, TX 78722          Home: (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
>                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
>1984 Oldsmobile          Pager: (512) 483-8056
> Delta 88  RB                   (713) 318-5938
> 4-door
>"The Party Barge"
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 20:54:36 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Just Wondering

On Sat, 15 May 1999, R.Strachan wrote:
> Hi,I don't know if anybody can answer this, but I was
> wondering how many people there is on this list. I
> guess this goes to Greg . Is there a Chat Room
> associated with this list?

I swear this is true... must be kismet or something... but the last
listing of subscribers I got a week or so back showed 330 regular list
members and 260 digest memebers. Must be a small-block list... ;-)

As for the chat, you need to find Rocket Talk. Check the links at Charley
Buehner's page (see my sig file below).

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1958
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