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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1946


oldsmobile-digest         Friday, May 7 1999         Volume 01 : Number 1946



Vibration- NOT driveshaft.
Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...
Pondering
Re: engine compartment: a/c to non a/c
70 DELTA 88 INFORMATION
Re: engine compartment: a/c to non a/c
Re: Question's: putting 455 in 87 442
Re: Parking lights, long
Re: levelling system?
Convertible Top Position
Wanted: 3.42 Olds Ring and pinion
Re: How much for a tach?
(no subject)
15" Rally wheels Trim rings
Re: Vibration- NOT driveshaft.
Re: Wanted: 3.42 Olds Ring and pinion
Re: 15" Rally wheels Trim rings
Re: Wanted: 3.42 Olds Ring and pinion
Re: engine compartment: a/c to non a/c
Re: Mid-West listmembers in Tornado Zone/prayers needed!
Powder Coated Metals - Good Ground?
Re: Powder Coated Metals - Good Ground?
Re: 15" Rally wheels Trim rings
Re: 70 DELTA88 QUESTIONS
Re: Differential Math
Re: flywheel 4-speed
Re: Rim & Tire Choices??
Re: Powder Coated Metals - Good Ground?
Re: How much for a tach?
RE: engine compartment: a/c to non a/c
possible parts car
Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...
Rhoads lifters (was: mech vs hydraulic cam)
(no subject)
Re: Rhoads lifters (was: mech vs hydraulic cam)
car names..
Re: Powder Coated Metals - Good Ground?
Offlist: 1963 98 tune up specs
Wait a sec! was: How much for a tach?
Offlist: Diesel stroker
Offlist: 1968 Canada 442
I have a parts car1972 cutlass supreme
Offlist: '65 Alignment specs
Offlist: Hood transplant
Offlist: '77 Toro XS
Re: car names..
Offlist: '78 Delta 88 Diesel
Offlist: '66 Cutlass headers
RE: car names..
Offlist: '76 Delta 88 value
700R4 vs 2004R 
Re: cranking pressure and CR..
Offlist: '47 Olds street rod
parts wanted

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 17:58:20 -0500 (CDT)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Dr. Olds - K. Wood)
Subject: Vibration- NOT driveshaft.

I have had quite a few people email me about
the vibration- reminding me it could be the
driveshaft, but it is not going to be the case.  In
tracing the vibration, I have used two completely different length
transmissions and
driveshafts.  One of the shafts was freshly made from all new stock, and
was fully balanced...  When I got the used driveshaft
to go with my new TH400, I also had the universal joints replaced in
that one.  Something is just not right in the rearend, and
I dropped it off today to get it checked out.  I expect to find that
something is slightly out of
alignment.  I had the vibration last year, and since then have had the
gears replaced with new ones as well as all bearings replaced- and
that did not change anything with the vibration.
Either something is misaligned or maybe there
is a problem in the posi unit itself.  Either way,
I hope to find out new week.

Kevin D. Wood
Dr-Olds@webtv.net


P.S. in my search I did find a 12 bolt Olds rear
(with 10 bolt innards)-  Posi with 2.56 gears? Somewhere in the 2-50's.
The car would
probably go from 60 to 130 pretty quick, but I don't think  have much
use for that!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 19:11:00 -0500
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...

Put some chromed Chevy valve covers on it . . . some W-30 oil in it . .
. "Yeah, it's got that 442 motor in it

===========
Actually, an E-block 400 (4.000 bore) with a 425 crank (4.250 stroke)
gives you
a 427 Olds motor.  Of course, given the small bore and long stroke, one
would
have to ask why...
- --
David Brown         Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
              Sneak a peek at 5.X FAQ at:
      www.ameritech.net/users/dlbrown/oldsfaq.htm
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 19:19:19 EDT
From: SCJ483@aol.com
Subject: Pondering

I am thinking about buying a 1962 Olds Cutlass  but not having much luck on 
finding info or parts reated to this vehicle so if there is anyone with info 
on parts ect plese contact me at SCJ483@aol.com.
    Thanks 
      Tim Wetzel

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 18:40:59 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: engine compartment: a/c to non a/c

>I want to change my a/c car over to non a/c.

It's your car so I'll skip the "why?" question.

>I assume the 72 - 68 brackets will interchange... but:
>
>What else do I need to get off the non a/c car?
>- Water pump and/or crank pulley
>- Water pump
>- Battery cable
>
>Anybody that has done this mod. please fill me in!


I've done it on a couple non-Olds street strip A bodies and
am about to convert my 68 to factory A/C so I'll give you a
list of what you'll need for the full conversion (if your gonna
do it, might as well do it right).

1)  Dash pad:  A/C cars have dash vents, non A/C cars
    don't and have no provisions to use them.
2)  Water pump:  The non A/C is shorter and needed to
    make the pulleys align.  Speaking of which, you'll need
    a single groove P/S pulley and double groove water
    pump and crank pulleys.
3)  Kick panels:  Non A/C cars have pull vents in each kick
    panel to compensate for not having dash vents.
4)  Interior and under-hood heater boxes:  Note that the
    hole in the firewall that the air flows through is in a different
    location between the two systems.  When converting to A/C
    the patch you have to put in is hidden, but when going to non
    A/C the patch is exposed.  You will also need the cable
    operated control panel (as opposed to the vacuum operated
    A/C one.
5)  Fan:  Due to the shorter water pump you'll need another fan
    or make a spacer to keep the fan from hitting the P/S pump.
6)  Wire harness:  You'll have to extend it to reach across the front
    of the motor to the alternator.  The A/C harness is completely
    separate and easy to remove.  It ties in at the horn relay on the
    left fender.

That's all I can think of right now.  There's probably more but I just
can't think of it right now.  Not exactly a small project to do it
correctly.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 16:45:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: EDMUND WILLIAMS <efw67@yahoo.com>
Subject: 70 DELTA 88 INFORMATION

Thanks guys for helping me with my exhaust conversion. I am going to
change my single exhaust system to duals. My existing manifolds are old
and have been welded a few times by the original owner. I am getting
some excellent condition manifolds fro a guy would you beleive from
ontario Canada! I should be getting them soo. When I get them, I'm
going to do the conversion. Now all I really need is some excellent
condition front fenders and I'm good to go. Thanks again folks. It's
good to know that there are loyal fans of such a fine piece of
machinery like Oldsmobiles after al, they are the oldest automobiles
around and in my opinion the Best! Keep up the good advice poeople!
Ed Williams from Queens, New York

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 20:02:46 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: engine compartment: a/c to non a/c

Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com wrote:
> 
> I second that opinion......since we have had some beautiful days but
> they were too hot to have the top down.....and it's only the beginning
> of May!!
> 
> Mickey
> '68 Cutlass "s" Conv
> Dallas, Texas

Please try to have this problem corrected before I arrive for the
Nationals next month.  Mid 70s will be fine...

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 18:13:41 -0600
From: "Travis Adams" <olds442@mcn.net>
Subject: Re: Question's: putting 455 in 87 442

There is a company that will modify the th200r4 to handle the power.  They
are level ten performance and the quote they gave me for my 65 442 was
around $1800 for everything needed.  Other options are the th700r4 but it is
only good to 450 ft/lbs according to B&M.  You could also buy the 4L80E
truck tranny which is good to 750ft/lbs.  JET makes a drop in unit which
includes the computer controls but, as I found out today, it is VERY
expensive ($3800).  Take your pick.  I am going with the th200r4.  The price
is right and if they hold up to 8 second Grand Nationals then they will
definitely work for a 12 second 442.

Travis Adams
65 442 Sports Coupe
- -----Original Message-----
From: MAT68442@aol.com <MAT68442@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, May 06, 1999 4:09 PM
Subject: Question's: putting 455 in 87 442


>I'm going to be putting a 69,455 in my 87 442. I would like to be able to
>maintain keeping a 4 speed automatic in the car. The one that is in the car
>now probably wont withstand the torque that the 455 puts out. Is there a 4
>speed automatic that will bolt up to a 455.
>
>Mark
>87 442
>87 Cutlass Supreme Brougham
>71 Cutlass S
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 19:18:11 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Parking lights, long

>>This is the damnable thing about it. There is 12V going into
>>the switch and the headlights light up so there is current
>>going through the switch. By putting the probes directly on
>>the spade on the switch there is nothing going to the brown wire.
>
>Whoa, big fella! Hold that thought.
>
>If there's nothing coming out of a switch that works fine elsewhere, then
>there's nothing going into it. There's no reason why the switch should be
>limited to one power input. I think (and the wiring diagram should confirm
>it) that you have separate power inputs for headlamps and taillights to
that
>switch, and only the headlamp feed is working.


I think you nailed the problem on the head.  The wiring diagram does show
a brown/white wire coming off of the fuse panel which I overlooked.  The
12V I was measuring is coming into the "BAT" terminal on the switch straight
from the horn relay on the left fender.  In my own defense though, the
brown/white
wire is right where the two pieces of the diagram are taped together and
partially obscured.  Thank you Andy, we shall see on Saturday when I get
to take another look at the car.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 20:21:48 -0400
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: levelling system?

The LSC's used the air bag system for a long time, so it apparently
works well.  However, the only ones you ever see for sale look like
lowriders, since the bags have quit inflating and fixing them can run a
grand per end (so I've heard).  They give a good ride though, so it
comes down to "whatever floats your boat"--or your Olds.
Brian.

Dave Cullen wrote:
> 
> Use one o' those automatic levelers on my 85 Delta. Monroe was the only
> brand of air adjustable shocks I could find to fit (besides $80 each GM).
> The compressor can put out 90 psi, and the electronic sensor tries to
> achieve +/- 3/4 inch from level (measured at the back bumper to ground). If
> the air bags can move the car as much as air shocks.....why not?
> 
> drc
> 
> >I would like to add the GM levelling system to my '78 Delta 88.  Car did
> not
> >come with it from the factory.  However, I want to use it in conjunction
> >with air bags inside the rear springs rather than use air shocks.  Is this
> >possible?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 20:26:01 -0400
From: "Glenn J. Martin" <martin.glenn@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Convertible Top Position

Thanks for all the info.  I thought you guys were going to say that but
i thought it was worth asking.

Glenn

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 20:35:43 EDT
From: Zeilmanns@aol.com
Subject: Wanted: 3.42 Olds Ring and pinion

I am looking for an original set (NOS or used) of 3.42 olds gears.  
Unfortunately, I have looked far and wide, and there are NO aftermarket gears 
that will work with my series 4 carrier (even with shimming).  I have a '69 
4-4-2 with an "o" series rear end.  It is a 12 bolt cover, 10 bolt ring gear.

If you have one, or know where I might find one, please please let me know...

Thanks,

Jeff Zeilmann
'69 4-4-2
'69 Cutlass Convertible
zeilmanns@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 21:15:28 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: How much for a tach?

>OK...a picture of the the one that I was looking at (Dwell/Tach/Volts
>Analyzer - CP7605, web price $49.99) can be found at the following link:
>
>http://www.actron.com/cgi-bin/web_store.cgi?page=cp7605.htm
>
>I'm pretty sure that this is the one that you are telling me not to get.



Looks kinda wimpy to me. No selection for 4/6/8 cyls?


>Now, there are two digital multimeters (that do tach) on the SunPro site -
>
>(Digital Engine Analyzer - CP7678, web price $109.99)
>http://www.actron.com/cgi-bin/web_store.cgi?page=cp7678.htm

A multimeter with automotive stuff added to it. Overkill if you already have
a VOM.


>
>and
>
>(Diagnostic Multimeter - CP7680, web price $139.99)
>http://www.actron.com/cgi-bin/web_store.cgi?page=cp7680.htm
>


Thermocouple added to the previous model. Mega overkill.


>Are these more expensive digital testers worth it?


Sure, if you don't already have some kinda electrical tester. But for just
dwell and tach functions I'd recommend a simpler unit - and there ain't
nuttin wrong with analog meters.

Mine is a 20 year old chrome case unit made by Peerless Instrument (Model
"455" yeah!) with analog movement, 2 rpm scales, 4-6-8 cyl switch....works
fine. Probly 50 bucks 20 years ago.

BTW the only use you'll have for dwell on your 84 Delta is to set the carb
idle screws....the computer test point should measure 30 degrees on a 6-cyl
dwell scale.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 21:13:57 EDT
From: VLHDancer@aol.com
Subject: (no subject)

unsubscribe oldsmobile VLHDancer@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 21:06:49 EDT
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: 15" Rally wheels Trim rings

Group-
Am running the 15X7" Rallyes on my '69 Cutlass and have had a hard time 
finding new trim rings at any kind of reasonable price. Seems like it ought 
to be interchangeable among other GM brands but am finding it isn't. The 
'deep' 15" trims I've bought from OPG don't work.

Anybody know of a good resource for these deep trim rings? Am hoping that 
$55ea from Fusick's et al is not the only way to go.

TIA
Peter
coupeking

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 21:48:48 -0400
From: Gene Gatti <jerseydevil@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Vibration- NOT driveshaft.

Hi Kevin,
   I was at my dad's house tonight and read his copy of JWO. Inside was an
article about vibration in a '65 Cutlass. The solution was to add a shim to
the rear transmission mount. It seems the u-joints were lined up too
straight and caused a vibration. I don't know if this will help you or not
but it could be worth a try. TTYL,
Gene

At 05:58 PM 5/6/99 -0500, you wrote:
>I have had quite a few people email me about
>the vibration- reminding me it could be the
>driveshaft, but it is not going to be the case.  In
>tracing the vibration, I have used two completely different length
>transmissions and
>driveshafts.  One of the shafts was freshly made from all new stock, and
>was fully balanced...  When I got the used driveshaft
>to go with my new TH400, I also had the universal joints replaced in
>that one.  Something is just not right in the rearend, and
>I dropped it off today to get it checked out.  I expect to find that
>something is slightly out of
>alignment.  I had the vibration last year, and since then have had the
>gears replaced with new ones as well as all bearings replaced- and
>that did not change anything with the vibration.
>Either something is misaligned or maybe there
>is a problem in the posi unit itself.  Either way,
>I hope to find out new week.
>
>Kevin D. Wood
>Dr-Olds@webtv.net
>
>
>P.S. in my search I did find a 12 bolt Olds rear
>(with 10 bolt innards)-  Posi with 2.56 gears? Somewhere in the 2-50's.
>The car would
>probably go from 60 to 130 pretty quick, but I don't think  have much
>use for that!
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 21:59:47 EDT
From: Mrmagic442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Wanted: 3.42 Olds Ring and pinion

  I have a set sitting on my garage floor out of the rear end of my 69 H/O. 
My other 3.42's are ten bolt. I will check on a friend of mine though that 
might have a set he can spare though.

Get ahold of me in a week or so.  Mrmagic442@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 21:53:37 EDT
From: FIFTY7C@aol.com
Subject: Re: 15" Rally wheels Trim rings

More bad news!  I just, this hour, received 2 15" rims from Fusick. They do 
not look like my original 14" rims and I can't get them to fit.  I sent an 
E-mail to them asking for assistance. When I hear from them, I will pass on 
the info.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 22:36:39 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Wanted: 3.42 Olds Ring and pinion

from richmonds catalog   the numbers are as follows
3.42 49-0049-1
3.90 49-0050-1
4.10 69-0328-1


these are for type-O only
footnote says fits 3.23 or numerically higher carrier 1.626"dia 27 spline
pinion stem



From: <Zeilmanns@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 1999 7:35 PM
Subject: Wanted: 3.42 Olds Ring and pinion


> I am looking for an original set (NOS or used) of 3.42 olds gears.
> Unfortunately, I have looked far and wide, and there are NO aftermarket
gears
> that will work with my series 4 carrier (even with shimming).  I have a
'69
> 4-4-2 with an "o" series rear end.  It is a 12 bolt cover, 10 bolt ring
gear.
>
> If you have one, or know where I might find one, please please let me
know...
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jeff Zeilmann
> '69 4-4-2
> '69 Cutlass Convertible
> zeilmanns@aol.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 22:35:51 -0500
From: "James L. Brownfield" <olzracer@peaknet.net>
Subject: Re: engine compartment: a/c to non a/c

George,

Are you aware that the firewall is different from and A/C car to a non A/C
car.
The heater box is smaller, and the holes in the firewall would be larger on
the a/c car.
Just something to think about.

Jim

George wrote:

> Hi List,
>
> I want to change my a/c car over to non a/c. I learned on this list that
> you have to change the alternator over to the passengers side for the main
> step in the engine compartment. I have a 68 350 (originally with a/c) and
> the donor will be a 72 350 (without a/c).
>
> I assume the 72 - 68 brackets will interchange... but:
>
> What else do I need to get off the non a/c car?
> - Water pump and/or crank pulley
> - Water pump
> - Battery cable
>
> Anybody that has done this mod. please fill me in!
>
> TIA, George
>
> 68 cutlass s conv. (why a/c in a conv. anyway???)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 04:07:10 GMT
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Mid-West listmembers in Tornado Zone/prayers needed!

Steven and all,

I have extended Native American family in Norman and Telaquah,OK.  All is 
well with them.  Thanks again.  Our thoughts and prayers are with you as 
well.

Take Care,

Chris Rivier
Austin,TX
'66 Delta 88   The BEAST under CONSTRUCTION.
'88 Festiva   ZIPPY 166K Lil' Parts Hauler.
WrEck PiX @ http://www2.bladeti.com/cars


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 23:56:48 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Powder Coated Metals - Good Ground?

I was wondering if powder coated metals make a good ground. Or is it better
to scrape off the area where the ground bolt is bolted to. My core support
is powder coated and the lights are grounded to the core support. They work
but the area where the bolt attaches to is not scraped off. Could this be
causing my lights to act funny sometimes.

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 01:45:00 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: Powder Coated Metals - Good Ground?

From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>

>My core support is powder coated and the lights are grounded to the >core
support. They work but the area where the bolt attaches to is not >scraped
off. Could this be causing my lights to act funny sometimes.

<GJC>

Indubitably, correct, most definitely, correct-O-mundo, indeed, absolutely,
positively, without a doubt, and finally, Yes SIR !

    Scrap off enough coating to expose bear metal strictly for the area that
the bolt is contacting/attaching to the core support. I would also make sure
a few of the core support to frame mounts are likewise metal to metal. Even
if your coating is metal based, It's metal suspended within a liquid
(insulating) material for the purpose of even distribution. It will not
produce a proper metal to metal electrical contact point. You might choose
to find a grounding location a little more obscure if tidiness is a goal.
Once the ground is installed, re-coat with a compatible clear. Just the area
of the bolt head. This should seal the union from future rusting. Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 01:46:25 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: 15" Rally wheels Trim rings

> Anybody know of a good resource for these deep trim rings? Am hoping that 
> $55ea from Fusick's et al is not the only way to go.

I got mine from Summit... they were $20-something each and fit perfectly,
go all the way to the bottom of the rim.   I think they were made by Wheel
Vintiques.     

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    -->   bob@tecmark.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 03:39:12 EDT
From: Oldsfire@aol.com
Subject: Re: 70 DELTA88 QUESTIONS

From what I have been able to find out about single versus dual exhaust.  The 
header manifolds are different.  You can make a dual exhaust system out of a 
single but would be easier if you could find a dual exhaust car and scarf up 
the headers from it.  Good luck on your project!!!   John!  66 Starfire  and 
67 Delta 88 holiday coupe!!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 04:41:29 EDT
From: Tbone6944@aol.com
Subject: Re: Differential Math

To find out the gear ratio you count the number of teeth on the ring and 
pinion gears.  Then simply divide the larger number into the smaller 
number.RPMs can vary depending on Trannys,wheel size, etc. Good luck. T 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 08:49:31 -0700
From: joe lewis <lewis@amada.net>
Subject: Re: flywheel 4-speed

im in ny

stephen minore wrote:

> joe lewis wrote:
> >
> > I have one, it has not been on my car in years its up in my garage buried
> > somewhere. Make an offer and i will go looking for it
> >
> > stephen minore wrote:
> >
> > > Hey guys,
> > >
> > > I am desperatly looking for a good used 4-speed flywheel for my 70
> > > cutlass W-31. I put an ad on here some time ago and got one respose, but
> > > that deal fell through my hands because I let a considerable time go
> > > by!!!!
> > > Now i am looking again.
> > >
> > > any help would be greatly appreciated,
> > >
> > > thanks!!!!!!
> > >
> > > Stephen Minore 70 W-31 FREAK!!!!!!!!where are you located?   i am in 
connecticut.  I will offer you $75 with
> shipping?   let me know.
>
> thanks in advance
>
> s.minore

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 09:16:20 -0700
From: joe lewis <lewis@amada.net>
Subject: Re: Rim & Tire Choices??

I have 275/60/15's 15x7 centerline rims on the rear of my 72 the car is about
2'' lower than stock and they never rub.

Glen Hankins wrote:

> I am looking for a wide (235-255) and
> >taller tire to cut my gear down to a more liveable RPM. What is a good
> >size?
>
> Peter-
>
> I ran 255/60R15 BFG Radial T/As on my 72 four door on a 15x8 rim.  Mine sat
> about an inch lower than stock. I only had clearance trouble on one side,
> but I rolled both of the wheelwells for good measure.  I don't remember the
> backspacing on the rims, but that size tire should fit in your wheelwell
> with no trouble.  Fills out the rear very nicely.  I also ran a 235/60R15 on
> the front on a15x7 rim.
>
> GBH

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 08:35:13 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Powder Coated Metals - Good Ground?

on a similar note coat the exposed areas with grease such as vaseline to
avoid corrosion in those areas since the coating is removed and moisture
could cause you  nightmares this is a normal process on the grounding points
of rack mounted telecommunications gear...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: gjcouse <gjcouse@francomm.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, May 07, 1999 12:45 AM
Subject: Re: Powder Coated Metals - Good Ground?


> From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
>
> >My core support is powder coated and the lights are grounded to the >core
> support. They work but the area where the bolt attaches to is not >scraped
> off. Could this be causing my lights to act funny sometimes.
>
> <GJC>
>
> Indubitably, correct, most definitely, correct-O-mundo, indeed,
absolutely,
> positively, without a doubt, and finally, Yes SIR !
>
>     Scrap off enough coating to expose bear metal strictly for the area
that
> the bolt is contacting/attaching to the core support. I would also make
sure
> a few of the core support to frame mounts are likewise metal to metal.
Even
> if your coating is metal based, It's metal suspended within a liquid
> (insulating) material for the purpose of even distribution. It will not
> produce a proper metal to metal electrical contact point. You might choose
> to find a grounding location a little more obscure if tidiness is a goal.
> Once the ground is installed, re-coat with a compatible clear. Just the
area
> of the bolt head. This should seal the union from future rusting. Gary....
>
> -----Regards,
>
> Gary J. Couse
> Couse Custom's
>
> ICQ# 5209322
> gjcouse@francomm.com
> gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com
>
> Custom Conversion Prototype:
> CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
> http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 06:44:44 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: How much for a tach?

>[...] and it does not say Actron anywhere on it (although Sears'
>digital multimeters are manufactured by Actron, so there's some
>room for debate).

Maybe. But I know from experience that Sears tends to assemble a line of 
products (cheap -> expensive) from different vendors, so one price level may 
come from a different manufacturer than another. OTOH, you can usually 
recognize the "real" identity under the house brand when you look at the 
hardware details. I just installed their top-of-the-line garage door opener, 
which is actually a Chamberlain brand if you buy it elsewhere (e.g. 
Menard's).

>Now, the kicker - The Sears (Craftsman) Engine Analyzer, Model 2163, is a 
>larger, more robust looking version of the smaller analog units.  It has a 
> >bigger face, more cool switch positions, and does 8-cyl RPMs in TWO 
>selectable stages - 0-1200 and 0 - 6000.  This one
>costs $50.
>
>NOW what's the better buy?

Mine's buried in a box since we moved, but that sounds like the one I have. 
The nice big meter is useful when squinting at it from the opposite side of 
the engine compartment. The compact size of the little ones isn't that much 
of an advantage unless you plan on carrying one in your glove compartment, 
and the bigger case of the 2163 makes it a little easier to plonk it on a 
fender or air cleaner without the risk of it falling down into a crevice 
somewhere. And yes, the 0-1200 range is nice for setting idle speeds just 
right.

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 09:02:08 -0500 
From: Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com
Subject: RE: engine compartment: a/c to non a/c

By then we'll be pushing 100's..........you'll be lucky to get
85-95.......be prepared....plenty of sunblock and hats!!!

Haven't been able to correct it yet.


> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Paul Hartlieb [SMTP:plh@nbn.net]
> Sent:	Thursday, May 06, 1999 7:03 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	Re: engine compartment: a/c to non a/c
> 
> Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com wrote:
> > 
> > I second that opinion......since we have had some beautiful days but
> > they were too hot to have the top down.....and it's only the
> beginning
> > of May!!
> > 
> > Mickey
> > '68 Cutlass "s" Conv
> > Dallas, Texas
> 
> Please try to have this problem corrected before I arrive for the
> Nationals next month.  Mid 70s will be fine...
> 
> Paul
> -- 
> Paul Hartlieb
> Myerstown, PA
> mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 09:12:44 -0700 
From: "Mountney, Scott" <scott.mountney@attws.com>
Subject: possible parts car

Ladies and Gentlemen,

My buddy has a 75 Cutlass supreme that will be going to the junker if no one
wants it.   I have seen the car, and it does have a few good parts.
Features include swivel bucket seats, and I believe OK doors and a good
hood.    Pretty sure it has AC and a few other things.   Center console not
too good.    set of rally rims (6) which I am thinking about taking off his
hands.    Let me know if any of you are interested.    
Does anyone know if the 75 swivel buckets will fit in a 72?

Scott

Scott Mountney
Senior RF Engineer
AT&T Wireless Services
International Development and Operations
7277 164TH AVE NE
Redmond WA   98052
Desk (425) 580-6364
Cell   (206) 409-3234
Fax  (425) 580-6363

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 12:36:05 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: What's wrong with the world? I ask...

In a message dated 99-05-06 16:32:49 EDT, you write:

<< Uh, obviously I should have said a _455_ crank, but you all knew what I 
meant...
 (besides, the 2 is right below the 5 on the keypad) >>

On a similar note, abc is just above jkl on your telephone.

SOM

&KA  <---- RUK 0pDUK on the land line, formerly HIL ANFU
      (and had a friend with SPI HORN)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 9:30 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Rhoads lifters (was: mech vs hydraulic cam)

>From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
>
><snipped>
>...Note that this does not take into account the effects of
>variable duration lifters like Rhodes.  These high-leakage units will
>effectively change the cam profile by allowing it to act as a less 
>radical cam at lower RPM, which would actually fatten the torque 
>curve at the low end (at the expense of annoying lifter clatter).
_____________________________________________

I have no personal experience with variable-duration lifters (Rhoads, 
Crower, and Crane all make them), but David Vizard reported in one of 
his books on his dyno tests of these lifters; for those of you who 
haven't heard about these lifters, the idea is that they are "leaky" 
hydraulic lifters, so at idle and low rpm when the engine oil pressure 
is relatively low they do not transmit all the cam-lobe profile to the 
pushrod, in effect giving you a milder camshaft. At higher rpm and oil 
pressure, the idea is that the lifters don't have time to bleed down, 
so they act just like normal hydraulic lifters. In theory you have a 
"smaller" cam at low rpm , extending the torque curve to lower rpm.

David Vizard found that the Rhoads lifters bled down so fast that they 
never transmitted the full cam profile to the pushrods, at any rpm. 
They cost considerable horsepower across a significant portion of the 
rpm range. On the other hand the Crane lifters (they are a moderate 
bleed-down design, unlike the fast-bleed Rhoads) functioned as 
advertised, matching conventional lifters at high rpm, and providing 
slightly more torque & manifold vacuum at low rpm. They effectively 
reduce the duration of the camshaft by about ten degrees at low rpm. 
As Vizard says, you can take your choice of installing a ten-degree 
hotter cam and having the same low-end torque as before, or using the 
same cam and having more low-end torque without sacrificing 
horsepower.

At this point I should point out that Vizard's testing was done on the 
inevitable Chevy 350, an engine design that suffers from a relatively 
narrow torque curve due to the poor rod/stroke ratio. Something like 
the Olds 455 with ample low-rpm torque may not benefit much from these 
lifters (if you're already lighting up your tires, what's the good of 
more torque?) Olds small-blocks too have a better rod-stroke ratio 
than Chevys and inherently have a slightly wider torque curve. However 
with a small-block I find the idea of using a 10-degree hotter cam for 
more horsepower, and losing no torque at the same time, very 
appealing. 

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 13:03:31 EDT
From: AVMDUCK@aol.com
Subject: (no subject)

Parts Car, I am interested!!

Please let me know where and how much....

Thanks
Alan
76 Cutlass S

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 13:07:38 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rhoads lifters (was: mech vs hydraulic cam)

In a message dated 99-05-07 12:51:42 EDT, you write:

<<  However with a small-block I find the idea of using a 10-degree hotter 
cam for 
 more horsepower, and losing no torque at the same time, very 
 appealing.  >>

Oh, no!
Karl has been drooling over the Crane fast bleed lifters in JEG's catalogues!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 9:55 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: car names..

>Telya whut.
>Name your car, give it a persona, and give the site a title to match 
>your car. 
>It works best if you put enough spin into your posts to get people to 
>want to read your stuff and....hey, Karl oughta try that.
>
>SOM
_______________________________________

Okay, I'll bite. What does SOM stand for, and what is his/her persona?

My Supreme is named Roger, short for "Jolly Roger the Merry 
Oldsmobile". When I got him a year ago his persona was definitely that 
of the prototypical Olde English butler, stodgy, dependable, refined, 
almost silent, but with geriatric reflexes to match. Now he's slowly 
undergoing a transformation to something more like George Foreman - a 
little heavy, perhaps, but a fine athlete nevertheless!

(Ingredients in the transformation already include Hotchkiss springs, 
KYB shocks, 225/60/16 Falken tires that are H-rated for speed and 
A-rated for traction and temperature on 16x8 Firebird alloy wheels, 
and a 1 1/4" front swaybar from a '79 Trans Am, mounted with Energy 
Suspension poly endlinks. This weekend Roger gets newly rebuilt lower 
control arms with Energy Suspension poly bushings and new Moog 
ball-joints.  Waiting for installation another weekend is a B&M 
shift-kit for the th350 slush-box with its interminably loooooong 
shifts. This much is reality, in the world of daydreams a full Global 
West negative-roll front end and 12" 1LE disk brakes await.)

If you kind listees will permit a teeny non-Olds portion to this 
message, my '73 Plymouth RoadRunner is named Rex, short for 
Plymosaurus Rex.  One look at the cars styling, with the big 
mean-looking hood-bulge, wide shark-mouth grille, low-to-the-ground 
stance, and muscular rear wheel-wells, and it's obvious that Rex is a 
carnivore well up the food-chain, hence my choice of name. Rex came 
from the factory much better equipped to run, brake, and turn than my 
Olds (lighter unibody construction, 240 net hp, an engine that pulls 
eagerly though 5500 rpm, factory dual exhaust, 11" front discs, front 
and rear sway-bars were all factory stock), but all the same one of 
the first mods I put on the car was the installation of even bigger 
front brakes - he now has 11.875" front disks from a bigger, heavier, 
later model '76 Mopar.

As you can tell, yes, I really like both my cars, it's hard not to see 
them as more akin to faithful friends than pieces of metal and rubber.

Anyone else want to tell the story behind their cars name?

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme    ("Roger")

'73 RoadRunner ("Rex")

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 13:11:31 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Powder Coated Metals - Good Ground?

In a message dated 99-05-07 00:52:37 EDT, you write:

<< Could this be causing my lights to act funny sometimes. >>

Lights acting funny?

I would suspect Mel Brooks is at the bottom of this.

Oh.

You meant....

Sorry.

SOM

&KA  <--- It's springtime for Hitler and Germany, the Third Reich is now in 
its bloom!

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 13:18:35 -0500
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Offlist: 1963 98 tune up specs

PLEASE REPLY TO THE SENDER BELOW!!

==================
I recently purchased a 1963 Olds 98. It's a great car and I love it, but
I am 
having a really hard time finding tune up info like Dwell, Spark Plug
Gap, 
timing etc... If you have any info on where I can get this type of info,
I 
would really appreciate it.
Thanks for your time.

Loren Fontinell mailto:Sunpersonn@aol.com
==================

- --
David Brown         Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
              Sneak a peek at 5.X FAQ at:
      www.ameritech.net/users/dlbrown/oldsfaq.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 13:26:04 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Wait a sec! was: How much for a tach?

In a message dated 99-05-07 09:44:39 EDT, you write:

<< Now, the kicker - The Sears (Craftsman) Engine Analyzer, Model 2163, is a 
larger, more robust looking version of the smaller analog units.  It has a 
bigger face, more cool switch positions, and does 8-cyl RPMs in TWO 
selectable stages - 0-1200 and 0 - 6000.  This one costs $50. >>

<<<Mine's buried in a box since we moved, but that sounds like the one I 
have. >>

And other praises from Andy (for brevity).

Hang on!

Is this an Analog meter?

If it is, then it is the one Karl has, and is quite happy with.

Used on a 1965 88 car (bigger than modern Caddys), the power leads can 
contact battery positive and alternator case (negative), and reach the coil 
terminals, with the acutual meter resting atop the cowl in front of the 
windsheild so that one can view dwell angle whilst turning the key to crank 
the starting motor!

How's that for one-person troubleshooting!

On a similar note: he is thinking of wiring up electrical guages such that 
breaker points dwell, rpm, oil temp, water temp, Cyl head temp (pyrometers) 
and fuel/air ratio are displayed on analog dials on the dash.
So much for ralley pack!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 13:29:44 -0500
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Offlist: Diesel stroker

PLEASE REPLY DIRECTLY TO mailto:racprops@primenet.com

> When I got to the [FAQ] section on :
>> The 350 diesel block with a 425 crank and the stock bore size block
>> (4.057") will yield a bulletproof 411 CID small block. The 350 diesel
>> block can be safely overbored .125" without sonic testing, to make a 437
>> CID small block. The 350 diesel block can be bored out to 4.25" when
>> sonic tested. With a shaved down 425 crank and a 3.975 stroke, that
>> works out to 451 cubic inches.
> 
> I was just about to throw a 403 together and worried about it lower end,
> and I really wanted a strocker for torque more, than pure CIs, and this
> set up sounds like the tops, with the roller lifters and 403 rods and
> gas cam should be a real puller with a long 200,000 mile life.
> 
> I would really like more info on how to build this set up. Is there a
> another article on doing this?
> 
> Any down side, cooling, weight?? Cutting the 425 crank and rebalanceing
> it?
> Best heads? Are flat top pistons worth the cost, I have a pair of 430
> 83cc heads, so I think with flat tops and these heads will give a 9:1
> compression ratio.
> Best cam, stock of after market? I want low-low rpm power, a rock
> crawler.
> 
> Would love to email and talk with some one about this.

- --
David Brown         Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
              Sneak a peek at 5.X FAQ at:
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 13:34:07 -0500
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Offlist: 1968 Canada 442

PLEASE REPLY DIRECTLY TO mailto:WATKINSII@aol.com

=============
>    I own a 1968 442 hardtop that was built in Canada. The car has a 
automatic 
> trans
>    and shifter on the column and bench seat. At the national meet in Lansing 
> Mich.   
>    I asked 442 owners about this and none new that any had been built in 
> Canada.
>    Are you able to give me any names and numbers that could help me with 
this?
>    I sure would appreciate it. Thank you! WatkinsII@AOL.COM           
> 

- --
David Brown         Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 13:42:45 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: I have a parts car1972 cutlass supreme

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0065_01BE988F.7CFDB6A0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have a parts car that will be going to the rust farm real soon.  I'll =
say within the next 2 weeks.  I do not have room for it,  and my wife is =
ready to kill me.  I have had it too long.  I have many extra parts that =
I will most likely not use.  This is a partial list:
- -rear quarter glass L and R  (they have window tint on them but it comes =
off)
- -350 rocket (I am told)  I'll run the numbers when I pull it out.  The =
motor ran well before I dismanteled the car.  I think it needs a timming =
chain.
- -passenger side door,  and all the goodies in it.  The door is a bit =
rusted at the bottom
- -There are a few extra lenses,  turn signal,  parking lights,etc
- -gauges(no tach tho)
- -hood with a few small dents=20
- -chrome rear bumber in very good condition(non-442 type)  would be good =
for a cutlass resto
- -10 bolt open diff.  ?ratio.
- -need a piece of body tin?  let me know I'll cut some out
    I have picked over the car quite well.  I have needed the pieces for =
my 442.  If you need any pieces please let me know.
I need a set of front fenders.  Anyone out there got some?  I priced a =
set of NOS at 1300$  Holey ouch!  =20





meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html

- ------=_NextPart_000_0065_01BE988F.7CFDB6A0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I have a parts car that will be going to the rust =
farm real=20
soon.&nbsp; I'll say within the next 2 weeks.&nbsp; I do not have room =
for=20
it,&nbsp; and my wife is ready to kill me.&nbsp; I have had it too =
long.&nbsp; I=20
have many extra parts that I will most likely not use.&nbsp; This is a =
partial=20
list:</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>-rear quarter glass L and R&nbsp; (they have window =
tint on=20
them but it comes off)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>-350 rocket (I am told)&nbsp; I'll run the numbers =
when I pull=20
it out.&nbsp; The motor ran well before I dismanteled the car.&nbsp; I =
think it=20
needs a timming chain.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>-passenger side door,&nbsp; and all the goodies in =
it.&nbsp;=20
The door is a bit rusted at the bottom</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>-There are a few extra lenses,&nbsp; turn =
signal,&nbsp;=20
parking lights,etc</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>-gauges(no tach tho)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>-hood with a few small dents </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>-chrome rear bumber in very good condition(non-442 =
type)&nbsp;=20
would be good for a cutlass resto</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>-10 bolt open diff.&nbsp; ?ratio.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>-need a piece of body tin?&nbsp; let me know I'll =
cut some=20
out</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I have picked over the car quite=20
well.&nbsp; I have needed the pieces for my 442.&nbsp; If you need any =
pieces=20
please let me know.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>I need a set of front fenders.&nbsp; Anyone out there got =
some?&nbsp; I=20
priced a set of NOS at 1300$&nbsp; Holey ouch!&nbsp;&nbsp; </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:know =
meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A><BR>Steve<BR>North=20
Carolina<BR>ICQ#26466860<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html">http://members.xoo=
m.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html</A></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0065_01BE988F.7CFDB6A0--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 13:47:21 -0500
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Offlist: '65 Alignment specs

PLEASE REPLY DIRECTLY TO mailto:pickanic@buffnet.net

================
> i have been trying to find some alignment specs for a 65 cutlass for a
> very particular customer, he wants all setting to o.e.m. specs.
> any help would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> thanks in advance,
> mike may, manager, monro muffler brake and service
> grand island n.y.
 

- --
David Brown         Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
              Sneak a peek at 5.X FAQ at:
      www.ameritech.net/users/dlbrown/oldsfaq.htm
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Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 13:49:01 -0500
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Offlist: Hood transplant

PLEASE REPLY DIRECTLY TO mailto:Dclark119@aol.com

============
>
> I have an 81 olds cutlass supreme i woluld like to put 70 442 hood scoops on 
> it.
> ho can i do this.


- --
David Brown         Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
              Sneak a peek at 5.X FAQ at:
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Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 14:06:27 -0500
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Offlist: '77 Toro XS

PLEASE REPLY DIRECTLY TO mailto:Ltlbopee@aol.com

=============== 
> HELLO,
> 
> I WAS JUST WONDERING IF YOU WOULD KNOW HOW I COULD FIND OUT HOW MUCH OUR 
1977 
> TORONADO XF WAS WORTH.  IT IS IN GREAT CONDITION, HAS THE WRAP AROUND REAR 
> WINDOW, A MOON ROOF, AND HAS 135,000 MILES ON IT.  IF YOU COULD HELP, IT 
> WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.  
> 
> THANK YOU,
> 
> JEAN
> Ltlbopee@AOL.COM
> 

- --
David Brown         Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
              Sneak a peek at 5.X FAQ at:
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Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 11:23:59 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: car names..

>Anyone else want to tell the story behind their cars name?

I had one: a '78 TransAm T/A 6.6 called "Thumper". It was a beautiful blue 
car that went like hell, but always bottomed out over the slightest dip in 
the road.  :-)

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 14:18:36 -0500
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Offlist: '78 Delta 88 Diesel

PLEASE REPLY DIRECTLY TO mailto:blom@2.sbbs.se

==========
Hi there..
I am writing from Sweden and i am looking for parts to my engine,My car
is a:

Oldsmobile Delta-88
1978
V-8 350 5.7l Diesel

And the things i need is: Glowplugrelay ( the "controler" witch has a
little
computer inside to control timing for heat up the plugs and give
afterburn
)from the 6.2 Diesel and 8 short quick Glowplugs...Thats it man

So i would be grateful if you could help me with this
bye from Dan...

- --
David Brown         Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
              Sneak a peek at 5.X FAQ at:
      www.ameritech.net/users/dlbrown/oldsfaq.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 14:20:24 -0500
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Offlist: '66 Cutlass headers

PLEASE REPLY DIRECTLY TO mailto:jlcaver@mindspring.com

=============
> I have to know one simple fact.  Are there any header applications that will
> bolt on to my 66-cutlass 320hp stock 330 cid.  I would love to get some
> headers and enjoy the flow.  I have not been able to find a specific listing
> in some time.  Some have said not to just bolt any SB olds set on to it
> because it will not clear the 66-67 body design.  I dont know.  I am hoping
> that you can set me straight on this issue.  Thank you very kindly for your
> help on this issue.
> 
> Happy oldsmobiling,
> 
> Lee Caver
> (334) 928-3132
> 
> 

- --
David Brown         Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
              Sneak a peek at 5.X FAQ at:
      www.ameritech.net/users/dlbrown/oldsfaq.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 13:24:52 -0500 
From: Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com
Subject: RE: car names..

Not too original ....but ours is Red Rocket......I think you can figure
that one out!

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Andrew C. Green [SMTP:acg_o@hotmail.com]
> Sent:	Friday, May 07, 1999 1:24 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	Re: car names..
> 
> >Anyone else want to tell the story behind their cars name?
> 
> I had one: a '78 TransAm T/A 6.6 called "Thumper". It was a beautiful
> blue 
> car that went like hell, but always bottomed out over the slightest
> dip in 
> the road.  :-)
> 
> -- Andy
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 14:35:43 -0500
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Offlist: '76 Delta 88 value

PLEASE REPLY DIRECTLY TO mailto:sdelesta@accessweb.com

====================
> My husband and I own a '76 Delta 88 2 door.  She's Cherry red with a white
> hardtop and has all leather interior, cruise, etc.  She's a beauty of a car,
> and we're thinking of selling her.  We have no idea even ballpark of what
> she's worth.  You chaps seem to be intimately acquainted with the Olds end
> of things, can you give me a guestimate on what she'd be worth, or is that
> like asking "How long is a piece of string?"
> 
> alison
> 
> ___________________________________________________________________
> 
> de Lestard & Associates Media & Public Relations
> 9519 - 87A Street
> Fort Saskatchewan, Alberta, Canada   T8L 1H2
> Phone: 403.992.1520   Fax: 403.998.9739
> 
> 

- --
David Brown         Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
              Sneak a peek at 5.X FAQ at:
      www.ameritech.net/users/dlbrown/oldsfaq.htm
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 10:54 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: 700R4 vs 2004R 

I'm not knowledgeable about the relative torque-handling capacity of 
the 700R4 and 2004R transmissions, but if built to be adequately 
strong, the 2004R may be an inherently better choice. The reason is 
that the 700R4 has an extremly deep 1st gear ratio - I think it's 
around 3.06:1 - and consequently a huge rpm drop when shifting from 
1st to 2nd gear. John Lingenfelter in his book on high-performance 
Chevy engines (yeah, I believe in knowing my enemy!) talks about this, 
and says that the more evenly spaced ratios of the 2004R (close to the 
usual TH350 ratios for the 1st and 2nd gears, identical for third 
gear, and 0.69? for 4th) make it a superior transmission design to the 
700R4.  Plus it's available in the BOP pattern. 

Just one more thing to consider.

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 10:28 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: cranking pressure and CR..

Karl, sorry, SOM writes:

<< So what do we conclude? >>
>That you have too much time on your hands?   :-)}

>More thoughts.
>PV=nRT    (simple version)

>This will give you information vis-a-vis the gas temperatures during
>compression, assuming a closed and isolated system.

>A true equation to capture a realistic (though in fact theoretical)
>compression pressure prolly involves a hairy integral of pivical nert 
>over time, but in this case, integrating over the distance of piston 
>travel would be more to the point.

>And as long as you are about to go to those lengths, mitaswell use 
>the proper pivical nert equasion to figure for actual mass/size of 
>the molecules and the fraction of the volume that they actually 
>occupy.

>Furthermore, assuming atmospheric pressure in cylinder at BDC or at 
>intake valve closing (whichever comes last) is also quite a stretch. 
>Atmospheric pressure definitely exists outside the air filter, maybe 
>above the carb air horn, sometimes in the intake plenum (if a dual 
>plane intake!!), but by the time it gets to the cylinder?

<much more in similar vein snipped>

_______________________________________

pivical nert, love it, LOL!

PV = nRT tells you what any one of P, V, or T does, IF you know what 
the other two do.  In this case, we don't!  The equation for adiabatic 
expansion (where no heat is exchanged from the gas to the cylinder 
walls), P1 (V1)^r = P2 (V2)^r equation does indeed come from PV= nRT, 
with some other equations for non-ideal-gas behaviour thrown in and 
stirred around. That "r" in the formula is the ratio of specific 
heats, Cp/Cv, and that includes some information on the actual 
molecules in the gas - r is different for different gases, its 1.4 for 
air.

Also, I was trying to calculate cranking pressure, with no ignition, 
and as a result, no stew of different chemicals.

I was trying to use a simple, back of the envelope calculation, but 
concluded that it wouldn't be useful. I agree with you, an accurate 
model requires dozens of complex factors, many of which you mentioned. 
This would be a huge task to analyize, fortunately Curtis Leaverton 
(the gentleman who wrote the DeskTop Dyno program) spent literally 
over a decade of his life working on it and has done all this work
for us :) .

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 14:55:52 -0500
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Offlist: '47 Olds street rod

PLEASE REPLY DIRECTLY TO mailto:hendrixn@newulmtel.net

==============
> I have an Olds question I hope you can help me with.  I just got my street
> rod on the road . . . it's a '47 Olds 66-series convertible with an '83 Olds
> Cutlass subframe and a '69-70 Olds 455 for power.  
> 
> The problem is the motormounts (NAPA # 602-1119); they're too flexible.  The
> car has a Turbo 400 with a column shift, and when I get on it and the engine
> torques, it tries to shift itself out of gear.  
> 
> The easiest fix would be stiffer motormounts, possibly polyurethane.  Do you
> know of anyone who makes something like this, or were they ever offered by
> Olds?  
> 
> Thanks, 
> 
> 
> Steve Hendrickson
> hendrixn@newulmtel.net
> 

- --
David Brown         Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
              Sneak a peek at 5.X FAQ at:
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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 7 May 1999 12:04:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: parts wanted

  I'm looking for a few parts for my 1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe. 
Here's the list:

    1.  Driver's side end piece to the package tray trim piece.  It's a
metal piece that goes on the end of an approx 2-3" wide metal strip
that is the same color as the interior of the car in the rear drivers
side corner of the car at the bottom of the rear window (interior).  

    2.  Driver's side door window upper front corner chrome? stainless?
metal trim piece.  All I need is the little corner 'elbow' piece with
the plastic triangular thing on it (exterior). 

    3.  Trink lid tin? Stainless? edge moulding.  Not the 3 pieces on
the actual trunk lid, but the 2 aprox 2" curved pieces that screw into
the quarters.  I have my rear bumper off, so If I could get these
really soon, that would be great, so that I don't have to pull my
bumper back off again to put those little pieces on.
 
    4.  Rear Driver's side stainless wheel opening trim w/screws if
possible.  

Anyway, these are the parts that I need.  I have had some difficulty
locating these parts, as they are not reproduced.  I met a few people
at Carlisle that either had these parts or parts cars that these parts
could be gotten from.  Unfortunately I don't remember any of their
names.  

   If anyone has any of these parts, Please e-mail me privately at
70Cutlass@Beer.com    
        
TIA,
 Stefan
 1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
 70Cutlass@Beer.com
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------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1946
*********************************

