Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1917


oldsmobile-digest      Thursday, April 22 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1917



Re: how to? R12 to 134a (the basics)
Firestone Wide Ovals
Re: '69 Rear end?
Re: Firestone Wide Ovals
Re: Firestone Wide Ovals
Re: Olds sightings.
Re: '69 Rear end?
Re: A, B, G bodies???
Re: Firestone Wide Ovals
Re: 700r4 Question
Re: Idiot Lights Not Working
Re: 700r4 Question
Re: A, B, G bodies???
Re: Carlise on Friday
Re: Firestone Wide Ovals
Re: Jefferson, WI - April 24 & 25
R12 Prices/ Jefferson Swap
CANT GET DIST. OUT
Re: VIN vumber help
Re: My Olds (long)
Re: CANT GET DIST. OUT
Re: CANT GET DIST. OUT
Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)
Re: '69 Rear end?
Dyno figures are in.
Re: VIN vumber help
Re: Olds sighting-LOCAL
Re: Dyno figures are in.
Re: pinning harmonic balancer - not a good idea!
Re: HEATER NOISE
Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)
Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)
Re: '69 Rear end?
Re: Dyno figures are in.
Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)
More on dyno
Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)
Re: Dyno figures are in.
Re: More on dyno
Re: CANT GET DIST. OUT
Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)
68-72 drop top frames ........was 350 swap
frame off questions & good news
good info in Ch*vy mag
Olds Magazine...
Re: Jefferson, WI - April 24 & 25
Re: Please tell me that I will not be shut out...
Re: CANT GET DIST. OUT
pulling a Churchill
Re: 68-72 drop top frames ........was 350 swap
Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)
Re: pulling a Churchill
Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)
Re: pulling a Churchill
Re: pinning harmonic balancer - not a good idea!

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 20:06:11 -0500
From: Matthew Bremmer <bremmer@sgi.com>
Subject: Re: how to? R12 to 134a (the basics)

gjcouse wrote:

> "The use of R-22 has been touched upon a few times. Including that it can't
> be used in auto systems. I don't recall anyone actually confirming or
> denying its use in auto based systems. Does anyone have official info on
> R-22's use."

You will never get anything official from a car manufacturer or mechanic shop.
All I know is that a mechanic friend of mine used R-22 didn't do anything
special to the system like purge it etc.  Just filled the system up with it and
ran it on several vehicles....


>
>
> "Can it just be used by mixing it with an R-12 system or must a system be
> converted in some way?"

He didn't purge the system.  The remainder of the r-12 left in the systems was
reused/mixed.

>
>
> Does R-12 really cost near $200 a lb.?
> My current system of R-12 still functions but I bet it could use a top off.
> It is cold and I would rather keep it R-12 based.
>

Yes it does cost 200+ a lb.  I was quoted a price tag of 1000 bucks to fix up
my a/c on my delta.  I said no way when the car was only worth 1000 bucks.

>
> Auto A/C shops want close to $300 to convert a system to R-134a if it
> doesn't require any repairs which of course cost more.
>
> I asked one auto A/C shop about the use of R-22 and basically got a Dohhh.
> So who would you go to get an auto system filled with it. I doubt a home

No auto shop is going to do it for you.  You almost have to have a friend or 
you have to have

a way of getting the r22 yourself.  Because think about the economics here for 
the refrigerant cost

per pound..

Matt

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 21:10:10 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Firestone Wide Ovals

List,

Give me your opinions on the following:

I bought a set of 4 reproduction Firestone Wide Oval tires back in '93. 
My total bill was just shy of $500, plus I spent another $80 for
mounting/lifetime balancing/valve stems.  The white stripes on these
tires started to show cracks after about one year on the car and have
been getting progressively worse.  I was never wild about the
ride/handling qualities of these tires anyway.  I thought I'd wait for
them to wear out and replace them with radials.  They aren't wearing
out.  The one good thing I can say here is that after 11000 miles there
is virtually no wear, other than for mis-alignment on the front.  I
recently learned that the company from which I purchased these tires
offers a "life of the tread" warranty, adjustments are prorated for
tread wear gone (that's fair), liability limited to the purchase price
of the tires.  I only became aware of this warranty clause recently.

I emailed them and received a reply today.

They are willing to let me return these tires, prorated for wear (that's
fair), I pay return shipping (that's fair - althought they no longer
have a local distributor in my area) and I can use the credit toward the
new tires they want me to purchase from them and pay the shipping on the
new tires.  This would be after I pay to have them dismounted, of
course.  This is where I'm having a little bit of a problem.  Since I
don't like the handling characteristics of these tires, I was planning
on replacing them with Cooper Trendsetters from a local distributor. 
I've had these on my '67 Ninety Eight for 2 years now and I'm very
pleased with them, plus, they're a reasonable price.  I can get 4
Coopers for around $150..  This company offers radials in my size, but
for $162 a piece!  And they aren't the right whitewall width - way too
wide.  I was kind of thinking more along the lines of a refund, but I
guess that's unfair, since I've used them for 6 years.  But there's just
no way I'm planning on spending almost $700 for new tires, even though
they'll give me a credit, that's still money I've already spent.  The
out money/shipping charges would probably still be more than if I just
went and purchased new radials locally.

I'm ready to send them a polite thanks-but-no-thanks reply, but wanted
your opinions before I do that.

Thanks,

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 19:12:06 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: '69 Rear end?

I think this one has been beat around.  If I remember correctly, some
people say that you need different control arms, some say different
spring mounting locations, and some say it's a bolt on.  

The wrecking yards have books on what will interchange.  If your still
unsure then may be you should take a tape measure and measure:
	1) width between the backing plates,
	2) width between control arm attachment points,
	3) distance from the control arm attachment points to some constant
item like the u-joint,
	4) distance from the center to the spring spots (my technical
vocabulary is shot tonight),
	5) if the wreckers diff is still in the car, the length of the control
arms,
	f) anything else you think might be different.

Of course, if you can, you may want to get the control arms that come
with the differential in case there is any differences.

I know this didn't help but maybe someone with a real answer will
correct me, please?
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 21:19:00 -0400
From: "John Pajak" <jspajak@us.hsanet.net>
Subject: Re: Firestone Wide Ovals

Paul Hartlieb wrote:

This company offers radials in my size, but for $162 a piece!  And they
aren't the right whitewall width - way too wide.

Paul:

What size tires are we talking about here?

John Pajak
http://members/tripod.com/~JSPajak

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 21:25:00 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: Firestone Wide Ovals

Heck, It might be worth it to go ahead and get the pro-rated new set and
then sell them at a swap meet. Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi
- ----- Original Message -----
From: John Pajak <jspajak@us.hsanet.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 1999 9:19 PM
Subject: Re: Firestone Wide Ovals


> Paul Hartlieb wrote:
>
> This company offers radials in my size, but for $162 a piece!  And they
> aren't the right whitewall width - way too wide.
>
> Paul:
>
> What size tires are we talking about here?
>
> John Pajak
> http://members/tripod.com/~JSPajak
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 19:26:02 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Olds sightings.

I just saw it for a moment last night a  little longer tonight.  The
commercial starts with the guy looking at his rust red beater and then
going into the store and buying a pile of stuff including aluminum
rims.  After he puts the rims on and buffs the paint it's in showroom
condition!  The paint went from primer red to a beautiful red gloss that
any pro would be proud to claim.

Sorry, I didn't notice the red inner fender, I'll look closer next
time.  The hood was way up so I think he's installed the newer hinges. 
Still it's great to see an Olds used in a ad like this and a classic 442
no less!
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 21:31:06 -0400
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: '69 Rear end?

Cliff,
    Thanks for the reply - I've made a number of the measurements that you 
mention
- - but had kind of hoped to find out whether or not this swap was posible 
BEFORE
going to look at the rear end - I called a couple of the local yards and 
received
a variety of answers - everything from - "Why ya wanna do that?" to the more
professional vagueness of "Well the Hollander book doesn't list it as a direct
swap, but it may be possible..."  So hopefully as you mentioned some of the 
list
members will step forward and put this item to bed once and for all! (I 
hope...)
Thanks!
Todd

Cliff Simpson wrote:

> I think this one has been beat around.  If I remember correctly, some
> people say that you need different control arms, some say different
> spring mounting locations, and some say it's a bolt on.
>
> The wrecking yards have books on what will interchange.  If your still
> unsure then may be you should take a tape measure and measure:
>         1) width between the backing plates,
>         2) width between control arm attachment points,
>         3) distance from the control arm attachment points to some constant
> item like the u-joint,
>         4) distance from the center to the spring spots (my technical
> vocabulary is shot tonight),
>         5) if the wreckers diff is still in the car, the length of the 
control
> arms,
>         f) anything else you think might be different.
>
> Of course, if you can, you may want to get the control arms that come
> with the differential in case there is any differences.
>
> I know this didn't help but maybe someone with a real answer will
> correct me, please?
> --
>
> Cliff Simpson
> mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
> '69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
> http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 21:32:27 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: A, B, G bodies???

A bodies = 64-80    G bodies = 81-88      The 78 - 80 cutlass was an A body 
but when the front drive came out they called it the A body thinking that the 
rear drive would be on the way out..little did they know how well the rear 
drive sold so they kept the rear drive but then had to call it a G body 
because now the A body  was a front drive.....confusing (Olds blew it)
Hot Rod Harry <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/">HOT ROD HARRY'S 
OLDSMOBILES
</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 19:44:03 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Firestone Wide Ovals

For what its worth, the whole reason the companies offer the pro-rated
warranty is to get you back.  Look at it this way, if everyone returned
with 25% wear left and got new tires they might still make money.  The
make some on the install and balance, and some more on the new tires
that you would have bought somewhere else.  I don't think it's a scam as
much as great marketing.

I believe the "lifetime" mufflers are similar.  I've had 2 on one of my
cars for years and they always replace them free, but, they always seem
to find something else that needs replacing too.  So they want to charge
me a bunch to replace the tailpipes, or shocks, or springs and give me
the mufflers.  Very nice of them.

Find out how much they will give if you can before you decide.  The
measurement is made on rubber so it's highly dependent on the amount of
pressure applied to the instrument and where it is taken.

IMHO,
- -- 

Cliff "You're not paranoid if they really are out to get you" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 19:56:00 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 700r4 Question

> I have a 91 Z71 extended cab/shortbox with a wheezy 350 in it.  I am
planning
>on towing a trailer or 5th wheel (haven't decided which to buy yet) this
summer
>and I expect to need a new engine by next year.  It only has 140K on the
truck
>but it has been used for a lot of towing and is exhibiting classic signs of
>lost compression (poor starting despite rapid cranking by the starter, poor
>acceleration).  I would like to drop either a 454 or a 455 into this truck
so
>I'd have lots of power.

With your 350, that would be a th700-R4.  454s came with 4L80E which is a
TH400 based OD with a .75 fourth gear.  As for your 350, if you go with 454
or 455 don't expect Fuel Injection as it will be expensive to convert.  A
good 4-bbl carb would do.  What do you have in that truck for gears, 3.73s?
The 454 will just bolt on, the 455 will require a adapter plate for the
trans, but it might go nuts on you due to lack of computer, so some rewiring
might be in order.  A use 700-R4 will stand up to either motor IF you don't
punch it too much at all.  Th400 would be a cheap tranny of choice, or to
save lots of trouble a 350 Chevy with a little work on it and maybe 4.10s
could help.  How big a trailer of 5th wheel do you expect to buy anyway.
140K is not that much, but if it works hard then I guess its okay.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 21:05:15 -0500
From: Dan Williams <442much@home.com>
Subject: Re: Idiot Lights Not Working

Another thing to check is the connections at the circuit board in your
gauge cluster.  The pins on the circuit board have been subject to many
years of vibration and often become loose.  It is possible to solder the
connections, but the best bet is to get a different circuit board.

> 
> > When my ignition is on, none of my idiot lights come on.
> > However,  when I put the switch in the accessory position,
> > my generator light comes on. I've never seen the others
> > light up, ever.

- -- 
Dan Williams                            442Much@home.com
Marion, IA                                68 442 Convertible

				   (+)------------------------------------(+)
        |  http://www.442.com/williams68.html  | 
       (+)------------------------------------(+)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 22:09:37 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: 700r4 Question

Cant the 4L80E  be converted to non computer state like the 200-4R or th
700-R4? I mean using one of those switch setup offered by Jegs or Summit.
Besides I believe the 4L80E Is even heavier duty than all the others. It's
what I'm considering for Quincy since I won't have the funds to go all out
with a 5 or 6 speed that will hold up. Both the 700-R4 and the 4L80E will
need adapters to mate up to a 455. I've found an adapter referenced for the
700, anyone know if it will work on the 4L80E?  Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

G.J.C - Hanger95 Technical Support Engineer.
For free Win95-98 Support, come visit <GJC> at:
http://www.salemcounty.com/cgi-bin/dcforum/dcboard.cgi
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Igor Todorovic <igor455@home.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 1999 9:56 PM
Subject: Re: 700r4 Question


> > I have a 91 Z71 extended cab/shortbox with a wheezy 350 in it.  I am
> planning
> >on towing a trailer or 5th wheel (haven't decided which to buy yet) this
> summer
> >and I expect to need a new engine by next year.  It only has 140K on the
> truck
> >but it has been used for a lot of towing and is exhibiting classic signs
of
> >lost compression (poor starting despite rapid cranking by the starter,
poor
> >acceleration).  I would like to drop either a 454 or a 455 into this
truck
> so
> >I'd have lots of power.
>
> With your 350, that would be a th700-R4.  454s came with 4L80E which is a
> TH400 based OD with a .75 fourth gear.  As for your 350, if you go with
454
> or 455 don't expect Fuel Injection as it will be expensive to convert.  A
> good 4-bbl carb would do.  What do you have in that truck for gears,
3.73s?
> The 454 will just bolt on, the 455 will require a adapter plate for the
> trans, but it might go nuts on you due to lack of computer, so some
rewiring
> might be in order.  A use 700-R4 will stand up to either motor IF you
don't
> punch it too much at all.  Th400 would be a cheap tranny of choice, or to
> save lots of trouble a 350 Chevy with a little work on it and maybe 4.10s
> could help.  How big a trailer of 5th wheel do you expect to buy anyway.
> 140K is not that much, but if it works hard then I guess its okay.
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 22:24:03 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: A, B, G bodies???

Raymond Dowty wrote:
> 
> What does a 70
> Olds 98 classify as?
> Thanks in advance,
> ray

Your '70 and my '67 are both "C" bodies, same as the Buick Electra and
regular Cadillacs.

Deltas are "B" bodies, same as the regular Chevrolets, Pontiacs and
Buick LeSabre/Wildcat.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 22:33:50 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Carlise on Friday

In a message dated 4/21/99 1:43:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
SrDietW30@aol.com writes:

<< The OCA usually tags along on another members site.  Last year I saw them 
 just west and in line with the main grandstand.  I usually get a program 
when 
 I go in because it has a complete map with the site #''s.  OCA is at site 
 IE20-21.  If it is the same place Fochi was last year it's just north of, 
and 
 west of the grandstand. >>

On the program I'm looking at it's about 4 rows down south of the grandstand, 
closer to Clay Street, just about in the middle of gates 1 and 2.  I hope 
this helps.  See everybody there on Friday at noon.  I Can't Wait :-)

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 22:36:28 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Firestone Wide Ovals

John Pajak wrote:
> 
> Paul Hartlieb wrote:
> 
> This company offers radials in my size, but for $162 a piece!  And they
> aren't the right whitewall width - way too wide.
> 
> Paul:
> 
> What size tires are we talking about here?
> 
> John Pajak

They're tires are P225/70R14 BFGoodrich with a 2 3/4" white wall @ $162
each.

or, they have P225/75R14 Classic with 2 1/2" white wall @ $155 each

My Coopers are P225/75R14 with approx 1" white wall @ $39 each. 

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 22:36:06 EDT
From: Biscayne2d@aol.com
Subject: Re: Jefferson, WI - April 24 & 25

In a message dated 4/21/99 6:28:41 PM Central Daylight Time, rebel1@raex.com 
writes:

> >   Hi All,I've been seeing all kinds of messages about Carlisle show,
>  > but for those of us out here in the Great Midwest I was wondering if
>  > anyone from the list will be at the Jefferson Swapmeet.


I am In Milwaukee and dont have a nice car to show off this year but I will 
be trying to make it on the saturday

Paul 79

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 21:40:38 -0500 (CDT)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Dr. Olds - K. Wood)
Subject: R12 Prices/ Jefferson Swap

Just recently checked pricing on R12 refrigerant
as I am about to get my new system filled with it.  Milwaukee, Wi area-
average $48 per pound.

Also... I will be going to the Jefferson swap meet on Saturday and the
Show on Sunday.
I know John with the restored 72 Hurst and
it better be nice weather so I can finally see
it!!!

John- you should let me know when and
where you'll be so I can check it out!  

Kevin Wood
Hartford, WI
'72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 22:39:26 EDT
From: Biscayne2d@aol.com
Subject: CANT GET DIST. OUT

I cant seem to be able to get the distributer out of my engine! The engine in 
question is a 85 Olds 307 from a Cutlass. I have taken out the hold down bolt 
and hold down, the base of the dist turns but no matter what ive done I cant 
get it to move up any more than maybe 1/8 in If anyone has had this problem 
or if anyone knows how to overcome this PLEASE let me know 
thank you

Paul 79

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 22:43:35 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: VIN vumber help

In a message dated 4/12/99 7:53:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
dgerow@coal.stonehill.edu writes:

<< I'm looking for the VIN number of my '69 442.  I'm away at college and I
 don't have the car with me to look at the tags.  I do have the
 buildsheet with the "344879E" on it.  Is that the entirety of the VIN
 number, or is there more to it?  I want to make sure I'm not missing
 something.  If there are more numbers, like a sequence number or
 something, where would it be located on the VIN?
  >>

Go to http://members.aol.com/drewinva/vin/index.htm for all the VIN number 
information you need.


Lou Principe 
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 22:58:08 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: My Olds (long)

In a message dated 4/16/99 8:56:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
drolds350@webtv.net writes:

<<  Here are a couple more,
 Specialty Olds- Winter Haven, Florida
 Also good to deal with.  >>

Anybody have a number or web site for Speciality Olds.  TIA

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 23:06:44 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: CANT GET DIST. OUT

Biscayne2d@aol.com wrote:
>
> I cant seem to be able to get the distributer out of my engine! The engine in
> question is a 85 Olds 307 from a Cutlass. I have taken out the hold down bolt
> and hold down, the base of the dist turns but no matter what ive done I cant
> get it to move up any more than maybe 1/8 in If anyone has had this problem
> or if anyone knows how to overcome this PLEASE let me know

Oh Jeez, not this again.  Don't feel bad Paul, you are definitly ~not~
the first person to have this happen to you.  I had one stuck in a 350
so tight I broke the housing in two when I tried to pry it out with the
tiretool.  It eventually came out with two 24oz claw hammers.  One on
each side prying against the distributor.  

Hope you have more sucess with it than I did.  Remove the hood if
possible, the extra clearance will help.  I would suggest liberal WD40
and keep working it.  You might see if you have better luck first thing
in the morning when it's cold...Might contract things enough to make it
easier to pull it out.  If you could figure out some way to mount a
slide hammer that might do it.

Sorry, wish I knew a surefire way to remove one without breaking it in
two.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais
73 98 LS

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 22:14:37 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: CANT GET DIST. OUT

On Wed, 21 Apr 1999 Biscayne2d@aol.com wrote:

> I cant seem to be able to get the distributer out of my engine! The engine 
in 
> question is a 85 Olds 307 from a Cutlass. I have taken out the hold down 
bolt 
> and hold down, the base of the dist turns but no matter what ive done I cant 
> get it to move up any more than maybe 1/8 in If anyone has had this problem 
> or if anyone knows how to overcome this PLEASE let me know 
> thank you
> 
> Paul 79

Paul: Don't force it: Use a bigger hammer! I remember that mine did not 
want to get out of there either. I got pretty harsh with it but I had it 
on the engine stand so I could apply force more equally that it did not 
break in two. I remember working it with a crow bar! If it moves 1/8" try 
to go back and forth that little bit and work it out that way. I actually 
don't know what the reason for this may be except worn gears but the best 
thing is that the gears of my distributor were not worn at all. I don't 
recall the cam though. Maybe someone can fill us in on the cause for this 
obviously pretty common problem...

Regards, and Good LUCK!

George
- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 23:48:10 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)

there should be a selection of holes to mount the crossmember with the frame
is the same as a 70 71 69 and 68 there should be several sets of mounting
holes for the rear cross there was only one crossmember and the th400 should
use the second to the last hole and the one before that from front to rear
looks like this sort of F denotes front R denotes rear

F o  o   o    o    x  x    o R

The x marks the spot
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Harrell17@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 1999 7:10 PM
Subject: Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)


> The car is a 72 Cutlass conv. and the engine and tranny came out of a 72
> Ninety eight. There are only one pair of holes that the motor mounts can
bolt
> to. Jim
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 23:52:38 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: '69 Rear end?

the 2.73 was only in the chevy 10 bolt I think is this what you have? does
the cover have 10 bolts?
if so then it is probably an 8.5 inch if the 3.42 is out of the same type
axle it is almost a bolt in the 2.73 and up use the same carrier on this
axel cant help you ID it in this format but hope this helps...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 1999 6:51 PM
Subject: '69 Rear end?


> Hi everybody,
>     I'm reposting this question due to the fact that I only received two
> responses to my question - which gave conflicting results (to the two
> guys that responded - I really did appreciate it - but you can see my
> delema...)  I have found a Limited Slip rear end out of a mid-70's
> Cutlass for sale (3.42 geared) that I would like to install in my '69
> rag top which currently has a non-original rear end in it with 2.73
> gears.  My question is - will this rear end bolt in, or ?  Will I be
> able to reuse my control arms, need the control arms from the donor car,
> or? etc....
> Please guys I need help - I'm going to look at this rear end tommorrow
> and it's a 4 hour drive to get to it!  So if anybody know for sure -
> PLEASE let me know!
> Thanks in advance,
> Todd Daenzer
> '69 rag top - 310 hp tied to a Jetaway and 2.73's  :-(
> (... but may soon be 3.42's!)
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 23:13:56 -0500 (EST)
From: hurst455@webtv.net (Corey Putnam)
Subject: Dyno figures are in.

  I just heard back from my speed shop today that my 455 for my H/O is
finally on it`s way. The dyno numbers were way below what I had asked
them for and I`m really dissapointed after spending ALOT of money.     I
have a feeling they depended too much on the desk-top-dyno and not
enough on real life facts. I also let them talk me out of the Mondello
22-25-10 cam that I wanted and into a comp 280H, so I guess some of the
blame rests on my shoulders as well.
   I had asked for 450 HP and 500 lbs of torque at streetable RPMs but I
ended up with 390 HP and 465 lbs of torque, nothing to laugh at but
still not as close as I wanted.
   The engine is .030 over, Edelbrock(not ported) aluminum heads, comp
roller rockers, gear drive, 9.5-1 comp., Edelbrock performer intake,
850cfm Barry Grant carburator, Accel distributor, and Hooker headers.
And of coarse the comp. 280H cam. Would I have recieved more power from
the 22-25-10? I could allways change it when I pick it up Friday but I
would hate to mess with the gear drive. Any feedback on what I could
have done differently?

Corey(feeling kind of "blew")Putnam
75 H/O W-30
87 Regal w/ Olds 455
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930 

  
 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 21:31:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff & Sherie Stanish <stanishj@svpal.org>
Subject: Re: VIN vumber help

If you have your state license registration the whole VIN will be in the
paper work at least in CA that's true. 

On Wed, 21 Apr 1999 LOUS69W30@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 4/12/99 7:53:54 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
> dgerow@coal.stonehill.edu writes:
> 
> << I'm looking for the VIN number of my '69 442.  I'm away at college and I
>  don't have the car with me to look at the tags.  I do have the
>  buildsheet with the "344879E" on it.  Is that the entirety of the VIN
>  number, or is there more to it?  I want to make sure I'm not missing
>  something.  If there are more numbers, like a sequence number or
>  something, where would it be located on the VIN?
>   >>
> 
> Go to http://members.aol.com/drewinva/vin/index.htm for all the VIN number 
> information you need.
> 
> 
> Lou Principe 
> 69 442 W-30
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 00:44:02 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Olds sighting-LOCAL

As most of you probably remember, I feel like the lone Olds person in
the cnetral Ky area due to the lack of sighting others very often.  That
trend continued today as I was driving down the main drag close to my
turnoff going home.  A real slick looking 72 Supreme passed me just
about the time I turned off the road.  Got a glimpse of the license
plate and it was a KY tag, but was from a different county so I assum he
was visiting.  Just happy to see a nice clean looking one in my area for
a change.  Reminded me of the beauty they exhibit when in motion.  I
REALLY need to get one of mine redone SOON..............

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 21:47:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jeff & Sherie Stanish <stanishj@svpal.org>
Subject: Re: Dyno figures are in.

Seems your compression ratio is a little low.  Stock 69 H/O 455 had 10.5,
I used TRW forged 10.25 in my rebuild. I run  Shell unleaded premium with
no obvious pinging. Experiment with some timing tricks. With most of the
engine done I'd say at this point why sweat an extra 50 ponies out of
about 400.  Run nitrous?Run blown nitrous?hope your bottom end can handle
it, like cross
drilling the crank, run large rod tolerances.020 with high output oil
pump. maybe nitride or chrome crank?  This gets expensive quick.  Get
Mondello's catalogue, and perf tricks book. It will tell you more tricks
then I could write in an E mail.

Remember if the cams too big you won't have enough vacuum to run power
brakes.  Maybe with an auxiliary can?

What do you want a street able car or a beast, a fine line in between.
The biggest problem is most shops only know CH*vy crap and not the quirks
of an Olds engine.  A biggie is spun engine bearings due to too much oil
pressure to the rockers.

MY 2c

On Wed, 21 Apr 1999, Corey Putnam wrote:

>   I just heard back from my speed shop today that my 455 for my H/O is
> finally on it`s way. The dyno numbers were way below what I had asked
> them for and I`m really dissapointed after spending ALOT of money.     I
> have a feeling they depended too much on the desk-top-dyno and not
> enough on real life facts. I also let them talk me out of the Mondello
> 22-25-10 cam that I wanted and into a comp 280H, so I guess some of the
> blame rests on my shoulders as well.
>    I had asked for 450 HP and 500 lbs of torque at streetable RPMs but I
> ended up with 390 HP and 465 lbs of torque, nothing to laugh at but
> still not as close as I wanted.
>    The engine is .030 over, Edelbrock(not ported) aluminum heads, comp
> roller rockers, gear drive, 9.5-1 comp., Edelbrock performer intake,
> 850cfm Barry Grant carburator, Accel distributor, and Hooker headers.
> And of coarse the comp. 280H cam. Would I have recieved more power from
> the 22-25-10? I could allways change it when I pick it up Friday but I
> would hate to mess with the gear drive. Any feedback on what I could
> have done differently?
> 
> Corey(feeling kind of "blew")Putnam
> 75 H/O W-30
> 87 Regal w/ Olds 455
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930 
> 
>   
>  
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 00:31:57 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: pinning harmonic balancer - not a good idea!

Even though I am fully
aware of the reasons/need for the dampening effects
of the balancer, I offered a "solution" that would
have created a solid hub.
________

Don't sell yourself short, Greg.  About a hundred years ago, Hot Rod magazine
had a little blurb about pinning the ring on the damper (sounds like a kid's
party game).  They got around the "solid hub" problem with some clever
machining.  First, they drilled a tap drill hole for a 10-24 thread all the way
through the ring and into the hub itself in three places 120 degrees apart.
They then tapped the hole for the 10-24 threads, but only ran the tap through
the ring, not into the hub.  Three allen head set screws were modified so that
the threads were machined off the bottom 1/4" of the screw, with the final
diameter of this part of the screw slightly less than that of the tap drill.
The three set screws were threaded into the newly-tapped holes until the
turned-down end projected into the hub.  Use Locktite to ensure that the screws
don't back out, and be sure to thread all three in an equal amount so as not to
disrupt the balance.

Volia!  You have now pinned the ring to the hub in a non-rigid fashion.  The
damper still damps, and the ring won't come off.  Note by the way that this
article appeared in Hot Rod long before aftermarket balancers were widely
available.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 00:40:29 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: HEATER NOISE

> In the morning or cold days, my heater has a tendency to
> whistle off -n- on(more like a screaming banshee)that can
> be heard for a good 75 feet or so. Sounds like plastic
> rubbing plastic at very high RPM. Very annoying!!!
> Any suggestions, besides earplugs?

A new blower motor; it sounds like the bearings are shot on yours.
_________

Actually, this has happened to me several times, and in each case the plastic
fan had come loose from the motor shaft.  Unfortunately, it's such a pain in 
the
@$$ to get at the fan (hood and fender must come off), that I would certainly
install a new blower motor anyway.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 00:50:09 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)

The car is a 72 Cutlass conv. and the engine and tranny came out of a 72
Ninety eight....
_________

Uh-oh!  Big cars used a TH400 with a longer tailhousing.  That's your problem.
You need an A-body TH400.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 00:36:31 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)

I took out a 350 and replaced with a 400TH. Could it be that there is a
different
crossmember for this application? I haven't found anyone yet that knows.
Thanks, Jim
_______

Well, there's the problem.  Please refresh my memory - what year and model are
we talking about?  If the TH400 was originally available, there should be holes
pre-drilled in the frame for the new crossmember location.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 00:48:21 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: '69 Rear end?

I have found a Limited Slip rear end out of a mid-70's
Cutlass for sale (3.42 geared) that I would like to install in my '69
rag top which currently has a non-original rear end in it with 2.73
gears.  My question is - will this rear end bolt in, or ?
__________

A 68-72 rear will bolt in and will be the correct width.  Note that some of the
various GM axles have slightly different dimensions from the axle centerline to
the pinion flange, which could result in the need for a different driveshaft as
well.  The 73-77 axles may physically bolt to the control arms, but I believe
the width is different.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 23:10:00 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Dyno figures are in.

Are the dyno figures back wheel horsepower?  A lot of people (myself
included) quote gross engine numbers and since you say that this is just
the motor I would guess that is true in your case too.

I admit that I thought you would get better numbers with all the goodies
that you have, are the pistons the TRW forged units?  Can you tell the
shop that they should install the Mondello cam if that's what you want? 
After all it was them that talked you out of it in the first place so if
the engine is not performing with their recommended cam then they should
shoulder the cost of installing the one you asked for.  IMHO :)

You forgot to mention at what RPM the peak torque and HP are.  That
would make a lot of difference because a more radical cam would give you
more power but it might be at such high revs that you would be toying
with disaster everytime you got up there.  If your peak is where you can
use it then that's worth a lot.

Don't forget that you are going to need to set the rest of the car up or
you'll be complaining of traction problems.  Even a measely 465 ft/lbs
should roast street tires till the cows wander home :)

Good luck, try not to feel too blew,
- -- 

Cliff "I want to dyno my engine too" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 19 Apr 1999 23:16:08 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)

Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:
> 
> Uh-oh!  Big cars used a TH400 with a longer tailhousing.  That's your 
problem.
> You need an A-body TH400.

So just for my general info, could he swap the shorter tail from an
A-body tranny onto the existing one and everything would work?  There
are a lot of old TH400's out there that could be donors if he already
has a known good transmission.

Just thinking out loud,
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 00:21:34 -0500 (EST)
From: hurst455@webtv.net (Corey Putnam)
Subject: More on dyno

  The figures were told to me over the phone and I have forgotten the
RPMs. I won`t have the actual paperwork until I pick up the engine
Friday.
   It`ll go in my 4000lbs 75 H/O w/TH-400 and 3.42 posi turning
275/60/R15s. I was hopeing to break the 12`s but am now just shooting
for the 13`s. I have not decieded on a torque converter yet so any help
would be appreciated.

Corey Putnam
75 H/O W-30
87 Regal w/Olds 455
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930 

  
 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 01:57:27 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)

Cliff Simpson wrote:
> 
> Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:
> >
> > Uh-oh!  Big cars used a TH400 with a longer tailhousing.  That's your 
problem.
> > You need an A-body TH400.
> 
> So just for my general info, could he swap the shorter tail from an
> A-body tranny onto the existing one and everything would work?  

Not just the tailhousing....You need the shorter A-body output shaft
too.  To replace the output shaft you need to completely disassemble the
transmission since it's the first part that goes in when you assemble a
tranny.  If you're going through that much trouble you're probably just
as well off to put a rebuild kit in the A-body tranny.  At least you
could make a big car TH400 useable in an A-body if the original tranny
had a bad case...As long as the output shaft and tailhousing are good.

  
Greg Pruett
72 Vista Crusier
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais
73 98 LS

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 02:46:33 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Dyno figures are in.

Well I had the smae basic setup like your EXCEPT I ran the JM 22-25-10
Mondello cam. It made 440HP and 535 FT-LBS. This is with CAST IRON "C"
heads. I honestly believe it is the CAM they told you to use. MOndello
tests and tunes 1000 of combinations and he knows what works. The Comp cam
is not as tested as they test Chevy motors with them. With your setup I
would step up the cam size, especially with the setup you have (gear drive,
Barry Grant carb, aluminum heads). Stock the motors made MORE torque and
about the smae horsepower as yours and they didn't have fancy heads, roller
rockers,etc..

Change the cam, it is easy to do with the motor out of the car. That motor
has ALOT more potential!!
Chevy 350 motors can make more power. It is the cam that is killing
you.....
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Corey Putnam <hurst455@webtv.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Dyno figures are in.
> Date: Wednesday, April 21, 1999 11:13 PM
> 
>   I just heard back from my speed shop today that my 455 for my H/O is
> finally on it`s way. The dyno numbers were way below what I had asked
> them for and I`m really dissapointed after spending ALOT of money.     I
> have a feeling they depended too much on the desk-top-dyno and not
> enough on real life facts. I also let them talk me out of the Mondello
> 22-25-10 cam that I wanted and into a comp 280H, so I guess some of the
> blame rests on my shoulders as well.
>    I had asked for 450 HP and 500 lbs of torque at streetable RPMs but I
> ended up with 390 HP and 465 lbs of torque, nothing to laugh at but
> still not as close as I wanted.
>    The engine is .030 over, Edelbrock(not ported) aluminum heads, comp
> roller rockers, gear drive, 9.5-1 comp., Edelbrock performer intake,
> 850cfm Barry Grant carburator, Accel distributor, and Hooker headers.
> And of coarse the comp. 280H cam. Would I have recieved more power from
> the 22-25-10? I could allways change it when I pick it up Friday but I
> would hate to mess with the gear drive. Any feedback on what I could
> have done differently?
> 
> Corey(feeling kind of "blew")Putnam
> 75 H/O W-30
> 87 Regal w/ Olds 455
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930 
> 
>   
>  
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 02:56:57 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: More on dyno

With 390HP and 465LBS of torque in a car that weighs 4000LBS you are
looking at mid 13's. Not to be mean but I want to be straight-up..I would
change the cam while the motor is still out of the car...That motor has
ALOT more potential. With my JM 22-25-10 cam in my 455 it put out 440HP at
4400RPM and 535LBS TQ at I believe 3700RPM. This was in a 72 442
convertible that weighed in at the track at 3875 pounds. It ran a 12.60 at
106MPH through the exhaust with only slicks on it. It has a 3.73 Chevy post
rear and a Mondello torque converter 11" 2500-2800RPM stall. No suspension
work done. 

I now installed the JM 4-5 cam in it and speaking with Mondello he stated
that I have another 30HP and about 15LBS of torque more. So I am looking at
470HP and 550 LBS TQ. I shift at 5000RPM. The car wasn't at the track yet
but my buddy  has a 70 with the same motor setup and he ran 11.90.
Still has more potential yet as tuning has just begun...


Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Corey Putnam <hurst455@webtv.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: More on dyno
> Date: Thursday, April 22, 1999 12:21 AM
> 
>   The figures were told to me over the phone and I have forgotten the
> RPMs. I won`t have the actual paperwork until I pick up the engine
> Friday.
>    It`ll go in my 4000lbs 75 H/O w/TH-400 and 3.42 posi turning
> 275/60/R15s. I was hopeing to break the 12`s but am now just shooting
> for the 13`s. I have not decieded on a torque converter yet so any help
> would be appreciated.
> 
> Corey Putnam
> 75 H/O W-30
> 87 Regal w/Olds 455
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930 
> 
>   
>  
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 06:46:29 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: CANT GET DIST. OUT

>
>Paul: Don't force it: Use a bigger hammer! I remember that mine did not 
>want to get out of there either. I got pretty harsh with it but I had it 
>on the engine stand so I could apply force more equally that it did not 
>break in two. I remember working it with a crow bar! If it moves 1/8" try 
>to go back and forth that little bit and work it out that way. I actually 
>don't know what the reason for this may be except worn gears but the best 
>thing is that the gears of my distributor were not worn at all. I don't 
>recall the cam though. Maybe someone can fill us in on the cause for this 
>obviously pretty common problem...


The majority of the problems are due to a hardened O ring on
the dist shaft combined with a build up of "gunk".  On ones
that are particularly stubborn, try working in some kind of
solvent like carb cleaner.  By working it back and forth it will
give the solvent a chance to loosen things up.  Also make 
sure that the dist shaft isn't binding against the cam gear as
it comes out.  It will have to rotate backwards about 1/4 of
a turn before it disengages from the cam.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 07:52:12 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)

At 12:50 AM 4/22/99 -0400, you wrote:
>The car is a 72 Cutlass conv. and the engine and tranny came out of a 72
>Ninety eight....
>_________
>
>Uh-oh!  Big cars used a TH400 with a longer tailhousing.  That's your
problem.
>You need an A-body TH400.
>
>Joe Padavano


==========

If this is the case have you realized you'll need a shorter driveshaft as
well?

Omega Man
'74 Omega S 455
'74 Omega 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 08:49:16 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: 68-72 drop top frames ........was 350 swap

List,

            This talk has me thinking. My 67 drop top
has a perch welded to the frame to attach the
X member - the 442  drop tops w/TH400 had a 
second perch added to accept the longer mount 
position - about 5 inches...... is this the same for the
later (68-72) cars ?????


the perches look something like this

\_______/                     -    4 speed and Cutlass
\_______/______/       -    442 w/TH400


Any help here ????

Tanks
The General    

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 09:19:15 EDT
From: Zitoj@aol.com
Subject: frame off questions & good news

First the good news I'm no longer an out of work rocket scientist (read 
aerospace engineer)....I'm soon to be employed by GE fixing an installing 
enormous gas turbine engines at powerplants, around the world.  Long hours, 
lots of time away from home....but really good pay and the reward of knowing 
that you've accomplished something when you leave the job site!!

This means I can start working the restorationon my 69 442 convertabel in 
earnest....at least until I get started in the training program.

Here's the questions:

1.  Planning on doing the skull work for a frame off restoration.  I have a 
donor frame that is currently sitting naked waitng for me to take the next 
step.
	a.  Does this frame a VIN derrivitave number anywhere?  Where?  I 
haven't been able to find it.
	B.  With the exception of one little bend back where the trunk will 
sit the frame seems straight and fairly rust free.  What is the best way to 
get the frame stripped, and coated to prevent rusting?  
	c. This one goes with B, how do I get inside the boxed rails stripped 
and coated?

Thanks,

Jim 
69 442 conv   

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 09:24:45 EDT
From: Zitoj@aol.com
Subject: good info in Ch*vy mag

Was in Albany airport Tues with a 4 hour layover so I was grazing in the 
magazine shop and found a resto mag with the biggest thing on the cover the 
headline "easy resto how tos"....didn't see the "C" word until after I bought 
it so please no flames!!! 

Had lots of good tips.  Some extensive A body suspension, brake and steering 
repair and interchange info.  

Here's the title:  Hot Rod Ch*vy Resto Guide

Jim 
69 442 conv

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 09:31:23 -0400
From: Darren King <KingD@sx.com>
Subject: Olds Magazine...

I get pissed off when I go for my monthly dose of magazines.
I buy chevy, pontiac mags.  I see ford, mopar and other models.
But no olds.

I've been thinking about starting a olds magazine.  Nothing fancy,
mind you.  Mostly tech info, few pictures.  All RWD vehicles.
Beginner's stuff as well, since that's me.

I'd like to know if anyone would subscribe to such a beast and
also if anyone would like to be involved.

Please email me off the list if anyone is interested.

Thanks,

Darren King

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 09:35:03 EDT
From: KASOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Jefferson, WI - April 24 & 25

John, I am planning on putting my 70 442 in Sundays show.  I not absolutely 
sure I will be there, but Im planning on it.  I will look for your car.  Keep 
an eye out for mine.  My car is light blue and it might stand out if you look 
at the engine.  (It has a 350 instead of the original 455).

Hope to find you there
Keith

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 08:42:49 -0500
From: "Roger Hitson" <hitson@i1.net>
Subject: Re: Please tell me that I will not be shut out...

Smallish town, southeast Missouri. Besides what i said, there is also a 
dealer/speculator here who specializes in what  he calls "classic" cars 
(anything older than 80's). He has way more time & contacts to suck up 
anything of merit & also sells for others on consignment.. This guy travels 
all aorund looking & buying. Mostly sells to "city folk" from elsewhere at 
high $.

Most of the salvage yards around here went nuts with crushing in the early 
80's. Very hard to find anything here in a yard older than 80's. Onlly yard 
has anythingold is run by a hostile-paranoid sob who's been raided a few times 
for suspicion of buting stolen stuff. What he does have that's old is mostly 
stripped, rusted hulks grown up in weeds ( & snakes). guy's hard to deal with 
& wants an arm & leg for about everything. (He also runs a used car lot & 
rebuilds wrecks) Don't buy a used car from that one.

roger

*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********

On 4/21/99, at 5:25 PM, R.Strachan wrote: 

>Where are you from?
>
>--- Roger Hitson <hitson@i1.net> wrote:
>> No flames here.  It may be easy to buy good, old
>> cars where many of you live, but in my (red) neck of
>> the woods, they've mostly been hauled off to
>> somewhere else or sent to the crusher.
>> 
>> roger
>> 
<snipped>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 09:53:08 -0400
From: rmoriarty@blairinc.com
Subject: Re: CANT GET DIST. OUT

I had the same problem, and like Greg, I broke the housing trying to remove
the distributor. The only way it came out was with the help of a friend and
his slide hammer. After we removed the hood he attached the hammer to the
narrow part of the top of the shaft (where the weights and rotor mount)
using a two arm attachment that looked like a gear puller. The attachment
had a nut that tightened, holding tension on the puller arms against the
shaft. This method uses the drive gear to pull the distributor out. In
order to minimize the shock to the drive gear you would want to pull up on
the hammer, keeping the gear tight to the bottom of the distributor
housing, before you pull the slide. The distributor came out on the second
hit. When I checked to see how the distributor survived the slide hammer, I
did not find any additional damage. If I had not broken the shaft during my
initial attempts it would have gone back into the car.

Good Luck
Ray





I cant seem to be able to get the distributer out of my engine!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 08:54:36 -0500
From: "Roger Hitson" <hitson@i1.net>
Subject: pulling a Churchill

Am copying off that Tim kid. Loading up the wife & brood & hauling them off to 
FL for awhile. With any luck, will be back. (have the sunscreen & Geritol 
packed).

Merry Oldsmobiling all.

roger

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 09:56:51 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 68-72 drop top frames ........was 350 swap

  This talk has me thinking. My 67 drop top
has a perch welded to the frame to attach the
X member - the 442  drop tops w/TH400 had a
second perch added to accept the longer mount
position - about 5 inches...... is this the same for the
later (68-72) cars ?????
________-

No, it isn't.  The 68-72 convertibles and Vista Cruisers use a boxed frame 
which
is modified in the area of the trans crossmember with an inset area.  The
crossmember actually sits on top of this section of the frame instead of on a
separate welded-on perch like the earlier cars.  As you might suspect, this
added-on section on your 67 was a band-aid from the factory to accept the TH400
- - the 64-66 cars only got the shorter Jetaway or manual trans.  Since the 
TH400
was an option on the 68-72 cars from the beginning, the frame was redesigned to
accommodate it.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 09:59:31 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)

Except the tail housing would only effect the driveline length not the mount
location the mount still goes in the same spot the holes are still
there...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 1999 11:50 PM
Subject: Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)


> The car is a 72 Cutlass conv. and the engine and tranny came out of a 72
> Ninety eight....
> _________
>
> Uh-oh!  Big cars used a TH400 with a longer tailhousing.  That's your
problem.
> You need an A-body TH400.
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 69 442
> 70 W-30
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 10:03:55 -0400
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: pulling a Churchill

"Pulling a Churchill"?  I'm flattered... better than pulling a Homer, I guess 
:)

> Am copying off that Tim kid. Loading up the wife & brood & hauling them off 
to FL for awhile. With any luck, will be back. (have the sunscreen & Geritol 
packed).

I'll be pulling one again next week -- WPB for a weekend of golf, sans
bride & offspring.  Male Bonding with parental and grand-parental units.

The Geritol bottle in my golf bag'll be filled with Dr. McGillicutty's.



Tim Churchill  tchurchill@draper.com  OCA #30327  Framingham, MA
- ----------------------------------------------------------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, new a.k.a 'Old Gold'
'98 VW Passat GLS Wagon, a.k.a. 'der Kinderwagen'

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 09:51:34 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 350/455 swap (was 350/455 motor mounts)

So just for my general info, could he swap the shorter tail from an
A-body tranny onto the existing one and everything would work?
________

If only life were that easy.

Unfortunately, along with the longer tailhousing these trannies got a matching
longer output shaft.  As you might expect if you're at all familiar with that
guy Murphy, replacing the output shaft requires completely disassembling the
trans.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 09:09:01 -0500
From: "Roger Hitson" <hitson@i1.net>
Subject: Re: pulling a Churchill

*********** REPLY SEPARATOR ***********

On 4/22/99, at 10:03 AM, tchurchill@draper.com wrote: 

>"Pulling a Churchill"?  I'm flattered... better than pulling a Homer, I guess 
:)
>
Isn't that what i said?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 10:14:59 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: pinning harmonic balancer - not a good idea!

This or something similar used to be a recommended proceedure for a drag car
from chevrolet
they did it a little differently they used 3 countersunk machine screws
evenly spaced and a slot in the inertia ring at each point to allow slight
movement at this time we all used solid hubs and creative
balancing.........KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 1999 11:31 PM
Subject: Re: pinning harmonic balancer - not a good idea!


> Even though I am fully
> aware of the reasons/need for the dampening effects
> of the balancer, I offered a "solution" that would
> have created a solid hub.
> ________
>
> Don't sell yourself short, Greg.  About a hundred years ago, Hot Rod
magazine
> had a little blurb about pinning the ring on the damper (sounds like a
kid's
> party game).  They got around the "solid hub" problem with some clever
> machining.  First, they drilled a tap drill hole for a 10-24 thread all
the way
> through the ring and into the hub itself in three places 120 degrees
apart.
> They then tapped the hole for the 10-24 threads, but only ran the tap
through
> the ring, not into the hub.  Three allen head set screws were modified so
that
> the threads were machined off the bottom 1/4" of the screw, with the final
> diameter of this part of the screw slightly less than that of the tap
drill.
> The three set screws were threaded into the newly-tapped holes until the
> turned-down end projected into the hub.  Use Locktite to ensure that the
screws
> don't back out, and be sure to thread all three in an equal amount so as
not to
> disrupt the balance.
>
> Volia!  You have now pinned the ring to the hub in a non-rigid fashion.
The
> damper still damps, and the ring won't come off.  Note by the way that
this
> article appeared in Hot Rod long before aftermarket balancers were widely
> available.
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 69 442
> 70 W-30
>
>
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1917
*********************************

