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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1900


oldsmobile-digest       Monday, April 12 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1900



those 1LE 12" disk brakes..
Re: Nuetral Safety Switch Hook-Up
Re: coolant for engine break in?
Safety Tip/Some Olds
Re: is 425 a good motor?
Re: coolant for engine break in?
Re: I'm now an Official Olds Owner!!!!!!!
has anyone put 442 springs in a regular cutlass?
Re: 350 big block vs 350 small block?
PivicalNertz (non Olds) was: coolant for engine break in?
Re: those 1LE 12" disk brakes..
Re: 350 big block vs 350 small block?
Re: Safety Tip/Some Olds
Re: steering box questions
Electrical Help Needed!!
Re: PivicalNertz (non Olds) was: coolant for engine break in?
Re: Nuetral Safety Switch Hook-Up
Re: Neutral Safety Switch Hook-Up
More non-Olds was: Electrical Help Needed!!
Re: Nuetral Safety Switch Hook-Up
Re: is 425 a good motor?
Front End Question
Re: is 425 a good motor?
Re: Neutral Safety Switch Hook-Up
Re: is 425 a good motor?
"Back off man, I'm a scientist!" was: is 425 a good motor?
Re: those 1LE 12" disk brakes..
(Non Olds)Alcohol Problem - Was: Re: "Back off man, I'm a scientist!" 
Completely non-Olds! (Was "Back off man, I'm a scientist!" was: is 425 a good 
motor?)
72 Delta 88
Rally Pack conversion, '80s Delta 88s etc.
Re: 72 Delta 88
Re: 72 Delta 88
Re: Completely non-Olds! (Was "Back off man, I'm a scientist!" was: is 425 a 
good motor?)
water as coolant, once more
replacing vinyl top on 72 Cutlass
Re: replacing vinyl top on 72 Cutlass
Re: 77 Pace car id
Re: 350 big block vs 350 small block?
Re: R-12 to R-134 conversion
Re: Rally Pack conversion, '80s Delta 88s etc.
Re: "Back off man, I'm a scientist!" was: is 425 a good motor?
Re: coolant for engine break in?
Remove From List
Vinyl top question
Flickering lights

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 10:56 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: those 1LE 12" disk brakes..

>Every time I read one of these articles they make a mountain out of a
>molehill.  Redrilling the rotors isn't that difficult with a few 
>basic layout skills.  The thing that kept me from using the 12" 
>rotors is that I would need 15" rims (got 14" on the front).  As far 
>as the 1LE rotors needing the studs pressed out/in c'mon!?  For those 
>that have never replaced wheel studs, hit them with a hammer and they 
>come right out.  A punch will put them right back in.  Take you about 
>10 minutes if your slow.  Oh, use a deep well socket on the back of 
>the rotor as a spacer so you can drive in the new studs.  As far as a 
>thinner rotor causing problems, it sounds like some more magazine 
>dis-information (they only write what people tell them) but ~if~ they 
>were thinner they would have to be much thinner to cause any 
>problems.  I wouldn't worry about it too much since neither Global 
>West or Hotchkis has made any mention of this to my
>knowledge.
>
>Mike Bloomer
- ------------------------------

Sorry about the late response, I was out sick most of last week.  The 
PHR article claimed that the 1LE rotors were thinner than the B-body 
12" rotors, and that GM basically took the B-body rotors, ground them 
thinner to fit F-body calipers, and drilled them for the 4.75" bolt 
circle. I called Global West and talked to their tech guy, asked him 
about the thickness issue and he wasn't quite sure but he said that 
their kits use the 1LE rotors and that F-body calipers should be used 
with them, not B-body calipers. Maybe PHR got something right for a 
change!

By the way, the 1LE rotors also need redrilling, the factory studs are 
12mm and after the studs are removed the holes need to be opened up 
somewhat to fit the 7/16" studs before they can be pressed in. This 
latter operation I might be confident enough to do myself as the 
existing holes for the 12mm studs are in the right place and will act 
as pilot holes for the bigger drill-bit, but I for one wouldn't want 
to try to redrill the B-body rotor to the 4.75" bolt circle, seems to 
me this is a fairly precise operation as the wheels need to be centred 
on the rotor when mounted or else wheel balance problems and vibration 
will be the result.

BTW, is a drill the correct tool for this?  My machine shop knowledge 
is limited, but I thought the proper way to do a press-fit was to use 
a reamer and ream the hole to one thousandth of an inch undersize. 
Drill bits tend to make rather sloppy holes, both in size and 
circularity, from what I know. 

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 14:07:07 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Nuetral Safety Switch Hook-Up

> Yes. Factory floor shift automatics have a linkage
> that rotates the column
> and operates the neutral saftey switch and also the
> indicator PRND21
> location if its mounted in the dash. The linkage is
> the same from column to
> tranny as if it was a column shifter. Not sure if
> all cars are the same but
> this is how it works on all x-body and I believe
> a-body cars.
>
> Omega Man
> '74 Omega S 455
_________

A-body cars (and here I'm only talking about the 69-72 cars) do _not_ have the
PRNDSL on the speedo if the car was originally a floor-shift car.  They _do_
have the backdrive linkage, however, and for an automatic it is, as you
correctly note, the same linkage as was used for the column shift cars.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 13:01:27 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: coolant for engine break in?

On Mon, 12 Apr 1999 Padavano.Joe@orbital.com wrote:

> ...Forgive my physics ignorance, but doesn't water boil at 212 Fahrenheit?...
> ________
> 
> Actually, only at 14.7 psi (sea level conditions).  In Denver, for example,
> water boils at a lower temperature (that's why cake mixes have different high
> altitude baking times).  Conversely, under pressure (as in a car cooling
> system), water boils at a higher temperature.  I seem to recall that with a 
14
> psi radiator cap (that is, 14 psi over ambient) water boils at something like
> 250 deg F.
> 
> A show of hands - how many remember the formula PV=nRT?

Now we just need to know how many degrees of freedom the green stuff has! 
Just go to the discount store and ask one of the sales managers! LOL! I 
actually tend to get skin rush when I see this formula!

George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 13:11:25 -0500
From: Wyatt <Wyatt@jobax.net>
Subject: Safety Tip/Some Olds

Well folks, I have been off the list this past week and have now
returned via my home e-mail.  A week ago last Sunday evening I had the
misfortune to have a repaired (?) aluminum step ladder fail while I was
on it.  To make a long story short, I am home nursing a broken leg.  I
knew better, but my father in law repaired the ladder 20 years ago and
it had done well since, but it should have been trashed then.  Instead
we have been using it with no trouble, until now.  The bad thing about
aluminum, besides conducting electricity at the worst time, is when they
fail, they fail quietly.
Wood and fiberglass ladders will "warn" of impending doom by making
noise.  I have another aluminum ladder that has not been damaged, but is
getting loose after 15-16 years of use, it will join the broken ladder
in the trash and I will replace them with wood ladders.  (now for the
Olds content)  I can't drive my Olds until the end of June when I am
done with crutches and cast :(  Too many pedals and not enough feet!

My 16 soon to be 17 year old asked me if he could drive my Olds to high
school the last week of the school year.  I managed to keep a straight
face and tell him I would think about it ;)  The thought of him alone
with my baby scares me to the bone, on the other hand I was pleased to
hear him express interest in the finer things in life.  I did ask him
who he was planning on racing, he turned red, laughed a little and said
nobody.  Yeah right!  Don't expect to see it in the school parking lot
unless I am behind the wheel.

Dave "Gimpy" Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 13:13:51 -0500
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: Re: is 425 a good motor?

KarlAunan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Whilst Karl was at work:
> 
> <<  is this motor 425good for high pro. >>
> 
> Anyone who says otherwise is in for a quite severe taunting!
> 
> The only difference between the high comp and low comp 425s ~should~ be the
> depth of the dish on the top of the piston.

Don't forget big valves versus small valves...it counts
> 
> My 1965 425 (Dynamic 88) has a quite shallow dish for a ~factory~ compression
> of 10.25:1. The HiPo "Starfire" engine was rated at 10.5:1, which may have
> been due to flat-top pistons, which should be available somewhere.
> 
> Not only is high compression possible, but the 1965-67 425's are ascribed to
> have a higher nickel content in the iron alloy, resulting in slightly
> improved strength.
> 
> As previously mentioned, you ~could~ drop the 425 crank into the 455 block,
> but it will cause the 455 pistons to strike your cylinder heads. The 425 is a
> short rod motor (well slightly shorter, anyway), so you also must use 425
> rods and pistons, by which time you would probably have been better off using
> the 425 block.

NOOOOOOOO!!!!!  The 425 rod is longer than the 455, 7" versus 6.735".
This is actual more desireable. The stroke is shorter though.  Worth the
tradeoff in cubes????  I'll try it as I'll be dropping in a '66 Toro 425
at the end of summer into my '65 442.
> 
> For a prospective 'rolling shell', Karl intends to build (arrh arrhhh
> arrhhh!) a non-Toro "D" block with "C" heads that was previously spotted in a
> yarde.
> 
> Another consideration is that the 425's sported an "early pattern" flexplate
> which differs from that on th common 455,  so there could be difficulties
> connecting to just any transmission.

 Any trans is not a problem, any flywheel/flexplate is.  If someone is
looking for an early flexplate, e-mail me,

Paul Brillhart
> 
> SOM
> 
> &KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 14:14:25 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: coolant for engine break in?

Now how many remember how to use it? :)

Omega Man


At 01:55 PM 4/12/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>Joe Padavano, after giving nice verbiage on the relationship of
>pressure and boiling point, asks:
>
>> A show of hands - how many remember the formula PV=nRT?
>
>(Raising his hand enthusiastically) I do, I do Prof. Padavano!! :)
>
>I *knew* that 11th grade Chem. class would come in handy someday!
>
>I remember a bunch of us in that clas thought it funny to call one another
>"Perv-nerts" -- Yes, despite the fact that we were Juniors, our humor was
>decidedly sophomoric...
>
>...like it's different today. :)
>
>P.S.  In my defense, the joke *was* starting to get a bit stale by the
>      middle of my AP Chem class the following year...
>
>Olds content:  Err, uhh... well, I've never had a boil-over in Big Red.
>              (knocking on the Formica woodgrain on my desk)
>
>
>Tim Churchill  tchurchill@draper.com  OCA #30327  Framingham, MA
>----------------------------------------------------------------
>'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
>'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, new a.k.a 'Old Gold'
>'98 VW Passat GLS Wagon, a.k.a. 'der Kinderwagen'
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 14:12:02 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: I'm now an Official Olds Owner!!!!!!!

In a message dated 99-04-12 13:58:47 EDT, you write:

<< I've still got a vibration at about 65 mph to sort out...  any ideas?
  Oh boy!!  I'm an Oldsmoniac! >>

Don, if it helps any, Karl is an insomniac.

But seriously, the father's 1976 Cutlass S (350/350) had some heavy vibration 
that kicked in at about 85 mph and Karl never figured out why.....

Alas, it has prolly been scrapped now.
(some idiot ran the red light whilst Kurt was driving it)

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 11:17:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: has anyone put 442 springs in a regular cutlass?

  Has anyone put a set of 442 springs on a regular cutlass (1970)?  I'm
sure somebody has.  The reason that I'm asking is that I'm thinking of
doing this, and am wondering how they will affect the ride (front
especially).  I'm expecting a stiffer ride/ better handling.  Will
there be a problem with 442 springs on the front since I have a lighter
engine (350 vs 455)?  Are the 442 springs any taller (rear)?  I want to
increase the rear hight by about 1-2 inches over what I currently have
(weak sagging original springs).  

TIA,
   Stefan
   1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
   70Cutlass@Beer.com
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 14:24:09 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: 350 big block vs 350 small block?

In a message dated 99-04-12 13:24:13 EDT, you write:

<<  400 (big block - short and long stroke)
 Ford - 352 FE (big block), 351 Windsor (small block), 351 Cleveland (other 
small
 block), 351M (modified Cleveland) >>

Thanks Joe!

1) Karl was not aware that there were different manifestations of the 400 
Olds, but it does stand to reason.

2) Leave it to Frog Motor Company (no offence J McJunkin): Confusion is Job 1.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 14:32:30 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: PivicalNertz (non Olds) was: coolant for engine break in?

In a message dated 99-04-12 13:56:59 EDT, you write:

<< A show of hands - how many remember the formula PV=nRT >>

Ummm.

You forgot to include the a and b variables to adjust for the physical volume 
of the molecules themselves.....

Oh, sorry, we forgot.
Those permutations of Pivicalnertz, as well as certain variations of 
thermalgodamits equations are best left to the pros.

OTOH (and as long as this split-end is a going concern) ...
The integral of "E" sub "X" equals the function of "U" sub "N".

Draw it out for yourselves and you will realise that the units are irrelovant.

just another hallucination from.....

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 14:40:25 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: those 1LE 12" disk brakes..

...I called Global West and talked to their tech guy, asked him
about the thickness issue and he wasn't quite sure but he said that
their kits use the 1LE rotors and that F-body calipers should be used
with them, not B-body calipers....
________

Two problems with this.  First, that's _not_ what Global West told me a year
ago.  They said to use the 1LE rotors with the B-body spindles and calipers.
BTW, the B-body calipers are externally the same as the 69-up A-body calipers,
though piston diameters may differ.  Best bet is to get the calipers with the
largest piston for maximum braking force (you _were_ using an adjustable
proportioning valve, right?).  Second, if memory serves, the 1LE calipers are
the 1984-up high-pressure aluminum Corvette calipers.  Nice parts but a) I 
don't
think they fit the B-body spindles and b) they require a special master 
cylinder
with a reduced piston diameter to increase the line pressure.  This, in turn,
means that you need to also use the 1LE (or Corvette) rear calipers.  Don't 
know
if you can use these calipers with drum rear brakes, either.  Note that the
low-end Baer Claw systems also use these Corvette calipers.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 13:28:57 -0500
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@email.mot.com>
Subject: Re: 350 big block vs 350 small block?

Pontiac has no Big or Small block, the only oddity was a 265/301/303/366
Short Deck, but all Poncho blocks are the same.  They have
287/317/347/326/350/389/400 for small journal, and 421/428/455 for large
journal, but they are all dimensionally the same.

Olds had a Small Block 260/307/330/350/403, which is dimensionally smaller
than the larger Big Block, 371?/394?/400/400/425/455, hence the names.  I am
not clear if Olds actually called them small or big blocks.  Anyone know?

Chevy has a Small Block 350, the closest to a BB 350 is the old 348 "W"
block, which was kin to the 409.  

Buick had the 215 (and Olds, joint venture, Olds had the turbo version
too),the 300, which were small aluminum motors (215 was, not sure if the 300
was alum) and the 340 which grew up to be a 350.  The big block Buicks were
400/401/430/455.  I am sure I am missing some of them....:)

Chryco had the 273/318/340/350/360/488 V10 for SB, and the
383/400/413W/426W/426 Hemi/440 for big blocks.  

And Ford....232/260/289/302/351W/351C/400M, for SB, and for BB, it gets
messy, FE engines, 332/352/360/390/406/410/427/428, and the 385 series, the
385 (stillborn)/429 and 460.  Which are considered the Big Blocks.

Chevy, SB 265/283/287/302/305/307/327/350/400, and for BB, the
366/396/402/427/454/502.  Then the W engines of the 348 and 409.  

Anyone know more??

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 13:34:50 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Safety Tip/Some Olds

Dave, 

Sorry to hear of your bad luck! 

Here is an idea how you could make a ride for your son possible. I 
recently read about a device that you can hook up to your car. It will 
store all driving data (rpm, speed, etc. etc.) There seem to be a lot of 
parents buying these and also companies with car abuse problems. 

I guess these controls will work rather on the newer models where they 
just store the data of the on board computer but maybe this is something 
you can look into. I think you can let the son drive the car when you are 
sure that he does not race it and a device like that will make that 
possible, right?

Just an idea popping up. I of course forgot how this device was called or 
where it can be bought but you have enough time to surf the net now with 
that leg ;)

Regards, George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

On Mon, 12 Apr 1999, Wyatt wrote:

> Well folks, I have been off the list this past week and have now
> returned via my home e-mail.  A week ago last Sunday evening I had the
> misfortune to have a repaired (?) aluminum step ladder fail while I was
> on it.  To make a long story short, I am home nursing a broken leg.  I
> knew better, but my father in law repaired the ladder 20 years ago and
> it had done well since, but it should have been trashed then.  Instead
> we have been using it with no trouble, until now.  The bad thing about
> aluminum, besides conducting electricity at the worst time, is when they
> fail, they fail quietly.
> Wood and fiberglass ladders will "warn" of impending doom by making
> noise.  I have another aluminum ladder that has not been damaged, but is
> getting loose after 15-16 years of use, it will join the broken ladder
> in the trash and I will replace them with wood ladders.  (now for the
> Olds content)  I can't drive my Olds until the end of June when I am
> done with crutches and cast :(  Too many pedals and not enough feet!
> 
> My 16 soon to be 17 year old asked me if he could drive my Olds to high
> school the last week of the school year.  I managed to keep a straight
> face and tell him I would think about it ;)  The thought of him alone
> with my baby scares me to the bone, on the other hand I was pleased to
> hear him express interest in the finer things in life.  I did ask him
> who he was planning on racing, he turned red, laughed a little and said
> nobody.  Yeah right!  Don't expect to see it in the school parking lot
> unless I am behind the wheel.
> 
> Dave "Gimpy" Wyatt
> 70  4-4-2
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 11:36 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: steering box questions

>From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
>
>I am in need of a new steering box or rebuilding my existing one (if
>possible) for 1970 Cutlass 'S'.  Has anyone gotten the faster ratio 
>box from Year One?  How do you like the difference?  Is it worth the 
>$280?
>Are there rebuild kits available for the existing box, and if there
>are, where and how much.  Any input is good input.

- ----------------------------------------------------

>From: Mrmagic442@aol.com
>
>Simply go to a junkyard and but a used box out of a mid 70's Trans Am 
>or Camaro for a 2 5/8 turn lock to lock steering box. they bolt right 
>in with the Olds pitman arm.
- ------------------------------


I am looking for fast-ratio steering info too, I got some info from 
Global West, they warn that using the Trans Am/ Camaro box can cause 
some problems. First problem is that these cars used a longer pitman 
arm and idler arm, so the steering box has built in stops to limit its 
lock-to-lock turns; using this box in your Cutlass will give you a 
faster steering ratio, but will also make your turning radius much 
bigger - bye bye U-turns. Second problem is that some of the F-body 
steering boxes used metric hose fittings which won't work with your 
stock power steering pump and hoses. 

Global West sells extremely expensive (around $495!) blueprinted 
fast-ratio boxes. Lee Steering sells similarly priced blueprinted 
boxes. Best price I found so far was www.powersteering.com, at around 
$200. I also got a great recommendation for this vendor from Bryceman 
himself (442.com).

Anyone with info on this, I am very interested to hear it. Do the $200 
rebuilds compare with the $500 blueprinted boxes in steering feel? 
Five hundred bucks is a lot of money, but good steering feel is one of 
the things that separates the expensive good-handling cars from the 
more affordable mushmobiles most of us drive.

Sorry for the late response, I was away sick for a week, thought this 
thread worth a reply.

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme   (needing fast-ratio steering)
'73 RoadRunner  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 13:56:10 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Electrical Help Needed!!

Well I got my 72 started and tested the volts going to the battery with a
multimeter. It was reading 14 volts but then it jumped to 18volts. So I
bought a new Borg / Worner external voltage regulator. It was installed and
the volts going to the battery was in the 14 range. Everything worked turn
signals,etc...

THe question I now have is that my Mallory oil filled coil is leaking oil.
I believe that with the bad external voltage regulator it may have killed
the coil. The car still runs with the coil. 

My questions are:

1. What caused the coil to start leaking the oil?
2. I bought the external voltage regulator for a 455 engine(which it now
has). The car had originally a 350 motor in it. What is the difference
between a 455 and 350 external voltage regulator? Will the 455 E.V.R be OK?
3.The volts going to the resistor is at 14 volts. Coming out of the
resistor and going to the coil is 8 volts. Is this OK?



Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 13:59:49 -0500
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: Re: PivicalNertz (non Olds) was: coolant for engine break in?

KarlAunan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 99-04-12 13:56:59 EDT, you write:
> 
> << A show of hands - how many remember the formula PV=nRT >>
> 
> Ummm.
> 
> You forgot to include the a and b variables to adjust for the physical volume
> of the molecules themselves.....
> 
Accounting for van der Waals forces are we?..let's just stick to simple
compressible substances...in which case, we eally should not be
discusing liquids.  Perhaps it's time to pull out a Mollier diagram and
look at the effects of pressure on the boiling point of water in
relation to the vapor-pressure dome...probably not.


Olds related:  My new neighbor has a low 11 second '72 Cutlass b*d @ss
trailer only mobile(4:11 spool 12 bolt chevy rear).  Details later when
time allows, he does not have internet access, has been racing Olds for
17 years, and is one hell of a nice, and knowledgeable(sp) guy, welded a
dominator flange to a Torker manifold,...pretty neat.

Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 12:02:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Nuetral Safety Switch Hook-Up

> A-body cars (and here I'm only talking about the
> 69-72 cars) do _not_ have the
> PRNDSL on the speedo if the car was originally a
> floor-shift car.  They _do_
> have the backdrive linkage, however, and for an
> automatic it is, as you
> correctly note, the same linkage as was used for the
> column shift cars.
> 
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
> 
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 69 442
> 70 W-30
============================
Okay.....so.....what is the switch that is inside the
counsole? He gave me the wiring harness and it
connected right up to the factory harness under the
dash. There are 4 wires of main concern in this
harness. 2 of em are for the neutral safety. (I know
this because this is the one I had to take some wire
and close the circuit on to start my car.) The other 2
I am just assuming that they are used for the reverse
lights. (Never closed that circuit to find out
though.) SIDE NOTE: This harness also included all of
the light bulb wires as well. Which brings up another
question about these counsoles. There is a light on
the front and the back of mine. Are these lights
suppose to be on when you turn the headlights on? Or
are they only on when the doors open? As of right now
they are on when the headlights are on.
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 15:06:18 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Neutral Safety Switch Hook-Up

...Okay.....so.....what is the switch that is inside the
counsole?...
_______

The 1969 cars still used the switch in the console, despite having the 
backdrive
linkage.  I think the 70 cars may have also done it this way, but I think the
changeover was in 71 to the column-mounted switch.  Interestingly, my 70 W-30
4spd uses the column-mounted switch to operate the backup lights, instead of 
the
transmission mounted switch used on earlier cars.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 15:06:59 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: More non-Olds was: Electrical Help Needed!!

In a message dated 99-04-12 14:54:07 EDT, you write:

<< 1. What caused the coil to start leaking the oil? >>

K.O.

This brings to mind a saw from the H.S. Physics teacher.

An old (and quite large) capacitor (non-physics folk should read as: similar 
to a coil) was plugged into an improper current source.
The result was that the case blew off and the capacitor's (or coil's) 
windings shot across the room en-mass whilst unraveling.

Apparently the dielectric fluid (whatever it happens to be) in that case, at 
least, is somewhat particular to the nature of the current.

SOM

&KA  <---  2WRENCH or not 2WRENCH, that is the question, whether it is 
sillier in the mind to suffer the slings and arrows of non-Olds traffic or to 
infuse the typical conversation with pithy dogma and outright hilarity.

Or something.

Nevermind.

Lemon curry?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 15:08:14 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Nuetral Safety Switch Hook-Up

...Which brings up another
question about these counsoles. There is a light on
the front and the back of mine. Are these lights
suppose to be on when you turn the headlights on? Or
are they only on when the doors open? As of right now
they are on when the headlights are on...
_______

The courtesy lights on the console should go on and off with the dome light.
Sounds like you've got them wired to the dash illumination circuit, which 
should
be connected to the shift indicator light instead.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 15:12:00 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: is 425 a good motor?

In a message dated 99-04-12 14:14:42 EDT, you write:

<< NOOOOOOOO!!!!!  The 425 rod is longer than the 455, 7" versus 6.735".
 This is actual more desireable. >>

Er.....uh.....

Will agree long rod more desireable as less stress to rod.

Ummm, will consult on length of rod ASAP,  (when Jim Chermac is E-mailable 
again). The 1965 Chassis manual fails on such specs...

Thought it were the 425 that had a 6.7 rod....

Alas, the halucinations are getting thick around here.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 12:20:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Front End Question

Okay, since this list never ceases to amaze me on
knowladge, I have another question. My 69 Cutlass S
had a bunch of small hex screws that were in the
underside of the core support. I could not figure out
what these would be for until I got my other core
support from the junkyard. That one had a plastic
piece mounted on there. Almost looked like a lower
spoiler on the front of the new cars. There was also a
piece of rubber on there that looked like it helped
the fan draw air through the radiator only instead of
from the bottom of the shroud. Anyone know where you
can find this piece?

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 15:25:40 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: is 425 a good motor?

Thought it were the 425 that had a 6.7 rod....
_______

Other way around.  The 425 (and 65-67 short stroke 400) used the 7" rod.  The
455 and 68-69 long stroke 400 required the 6.7" rod to prevent pushing pistons
out of the block.  It is true that the long rod is preferable, due to the
reduced rod angularity during piston travel.  If I might be allowed to 
interject
yet more physics, The improved rod length/stroke ratio results in less cosine
loss - less of the piston's downward force is wasted pushing sideways on the
crank throw and more is used to push downward to accelerate the crank.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 15:32:16 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Neutral Safety Switch Hook-Up

  Interestingly, my 70 W-30
>4spd uses the column-mounted switch to operate the backup lights, instead
of the
>transmission mounted switch used on earlier cars.
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>

I had a '74 Nova SS 4spd that was (supposed to be) the same way. Had it not
been butchered (along with the floor tunnel) by a previous owner in an
attempt to put in an aftermarket Mr. Gasket shifter. The linkage was
missing. He had the backup lights afro-engineered to a toggle switch. Oh
the nightmare................ Never again will I buy such a mutilated car.

Olds content: 
Whats a good price for a decent "running" 455? Right now my time won't
permit me to rebuild the engine I have and I want to get my Omega on the
road by mid summer. I just want to buy a running engine and swap in a new
JM-20-22 cam, an aluminum intake and holley double pumper. Fine tune it and
rock and roll. Anyone think I'll encounter any problems doing it this way?

Omega Man
'74 Omega S 455

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 14:47:46 -0500
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: Re: is 425 a good motor?

KarlAunan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 99-04-12 14:14:42 EDT, you write:
> 
> << NOOOOOOOO!!!!!  The 425 rod is longer than the 455, 7" versus 6.735".
>  This is actual more desireable. >>
> 
> Er.....uh.....
> 
> Will agree long rod more desireable as less stress to rod.

In terms of rotational mechanics, a longer rod spends more time at/near
TDC for combustion to raise in cylinder pressures higher than a shorter
rod...translates to more downward force as the crank swings around from
0 to 90 degrees during the first half of the power stroke...don't trust
me..see Smokey U's book or the two part Hod Rod article on long rod
351W's.  Or draw a four bar linkage and do the mechanics, then do some
time derivatives...loks of mental ma#*#*$*tion fun...well, I like it.
> 
> Ummm, will consult on length of rod ASAP,  (when Jim Chermac is E-mailable
> again). The 1965 Chassis manual fails on such specs...

See Mondello's catalog or builder catalog.  Or Dick Miller's or Dave
Smith's. or consult Joe Padavano.

> 
> Thought it were the 425 that had a 6.7 rod...

Nope, early 400 and 425's were 7" rods while late 400's and 455's were
6.735" long.  Late 400's had longer strokes, smaller bores and shorter
rods than the '65 to '67's.  They were "under square" as opposed to over
square in reference to the bore/stroke ratio.  

Later,

Paul Brillhart

> 
> Alas, the halucinations are getting thick around here.
> 
> SOM
> 
> &KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 15:50:14 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: "Back off man, I'm a scientist!" was: is 425 a good motor?

In a message dated 99-04-12 15:28:26 EDT, that would make a smashing film!

<< is preferable, due to the reduced rod angularity during piston travel.  If 
I might be allowed to interject yet more physics,">>

Kewl!

<< The improved rod length/stroke ratio results in less cosine loss - less of 
the piston's downward force is wasted pushing sideways on the crank throw and 
more is used to push downward to accelerate the crank. >>

Joe.
No malice.
Just wish intelligent discussion.

If you will forgive a rebuttal:

While the prima facie rod behavior shows less inertial waste, bear in mind 
that due to eight separate ignitions we are not discussing a simple model by 
any means. There are also 7 other cylinders who are are generating their own 
pulses and thereby causing the crank to oscillate somewhat as it continues to 
rotate in the proper direction. Do you maintain that in the 455 environ there 
is less "cosinal" drag than in the 425 given similar oscilations although 
both suffer similar (perhaps proportional?) forces resultant from ignition in 
chambers of similar (and different)  diplacement?

Or is it way past Karl's bedtime?

On a similar note, Karl may have discovered that he has an alcohol problem.
When he is in the shower, the alcohol in his beer becomes diluted.
Are there any known remedies for this?

SOM

&KA  <---- membership for the association for putting things on top of other 
things rejected.
Alas.
And Alad.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 15:58:03 -0700
From: joe lewis <lewis@amada.net>
Subject: Re: those 1LE 12" disk brakes..

Everyone always talks about using a master cylinder with a smaller bore ex:1'',
claipers with larger bore etc etc. But when you goto a parts store you need to 
know
what year and what car these parts came on. I have done this 1LE upgrade on my 
72
cutlass i also put the 11'' rear drums on it and larger rear wheel cylinders 
and now
im looking to upgrade the master cyl. to a new style(plastic & alum). Has 
anyone
done this? They did an article in may99 of Chevy High Performance about this
upgrade, but of course they dont give a dam part# or what type car.

Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:

> ...I called Global West and talked to their tech guy, asked him
> about the thickness issue and he wasn't quite sure but he said that
> their kits use the 1LE rotors and that F-body calipers should be used
> with them, not B-body calipers....
> ________
>
> Two problems with this.  First, that's _not_ what Global West told me a year
> ago.  They said to use the 1LE rotors with the B-body spindles and calipers.
> BTW, the B-body calipers are externally the same as the 69-up A-body 
calipers,
> though piston diameters may differ.  Best bet is to get the calipers with the
> largest piston for maximum braking force (you _were_ using an adjustable
> proportioning valve, right?).  Second, if memory serves, the 1LE calipers are
> the 1984-up high-pressure aluminum Corvette calipers.  Nice parts but a) I 
don't
> think they fit the B-body spindles and b) they require a special master 
cylinder
> with a reduced piston diameter to increase the line pressure.  This, in turn,
> means that you need to also use the 1LE (or Corvette) rear calipers.  Don't 
know
> if you can use these calipers with drum rear brakes, either.  Note that the
> low-end Baer Claw systems also use these Corvette calipers.
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 69 442
> 70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 13:12:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: (Non Olds)Alcohol Problem - Was: Re: "Back off man, I'm a scientist!" 

 *LoL* Maybe 'he' could try using one of those little umbrellas that
come with tropical drinks.  Or, one of those long twistie straws, that
way the beer is a few feet away, but still accessible. :^)
 Ok, enough humor, time to get back to the Olds. 

Stefan
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
70Cutlass@Beer.com
 
<snip> 
> On a similar note, Karl may have discovered that he has an alcohol
> problem.
> When he is in the shower, the alcohol in his beer becomes diluted.
> Are there any known remedies for this?
> 
> SOM
<snip>
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 13:15:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Completely non-Olds! (Was "Back off man, I'm a scientist!" was: is 
425 a good motor?)

<snip>drag than in the 425 given similar
> oscilations although 
> both suffer similar (perhaps proportional?) forces
> resultant from ignition in 
> chambers of similar (and different)  diplacement?
<snip> 

Seeing this has finally gotten me to ask a non-Olds
question. Now, I am sure that there are Chebby 350
guys on here or at least guys who know. Anyways, a
buddy of mine has a chev 350 with flat top pistons,
bored .30 over, and a cam that is suppose to be in a
pickup. (Unsure of duration at this time) Anyways, he
has a set of Corvette heads on there that are in bad
shape. The guides pretty much dump oil into the
cylinders. Sitting in his parents garage, he has a
Chev 305 that is in perfect condition less the spun
main bearing. Question....can we bolt on the 305 heads
on his 350? Will this create too small of a combustion
chamber? Will it preignight? Will the valves bottom on
the piston? I'm sure someone has tried this! Any info?

Also....how many licks does it take to get to the
center of a tootsie pop? (HEY....I'm not a scientist
so this is the best I can do! *LOL*)
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 15:16:30 -0500
From: "CRAIG G BROUSSARD" <ABROUSSARD@prodigy.net>
Subject: 72 Delta 88

My friend is getting a 72 Delta 88 and asked me to see if any of you could
estimate how much a new:
engine
paint job
and re cover the seats would cost?

Adam Broussard
62 F-85 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 16:14:58 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Rally Pack conversion, '80s Delta 88s etc.

For a long time, I believed that there were only two basic types of sending
unit for the temp and oil pressure.  IE - the idiot light type which is
either on or off; and the gage type which is a variable resistance unit.  I
have recently discovered that some '80s applications used a dual terminal
sending unit which fed both the light and the gage.  I will report more when
I know more.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 14:29:57 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 72 Delta 88

>My friend is getting a 72 Delta 88 and asked me to see if any of you could
>estimate how much a new:
>engine
>paint job
>and re cover the seats would cost?
>

Lots.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 15:24:07 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: 72 Delta 88

Well Adam, 

This looks like a quick question with not too much depth. So allow me to 
give a shallow answer with some prices I have in mind. This all varies A 
LOT depending on what he plans to get, how much he can do himself, 
where he is located, if he knows someone that gives him a good price 
etc. etc. but I put down some prices, okay?

minimum prices with much work / not much work done by your buddy:

engine     	  	1500 / 3000
paint   		1500 / 2500
front and back seats     800 / 1200

total			3800 / 6700

Does this help? Resto is for sure expensive and never pays off if you 
dont enjoy the procedure itself. If your bud wants a nice turn-key car 
he should defenitely get himself a hemmings and just buy a finished 
project.

George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

On Mon, 12 Apr 1999, CRAIG G BROUSSARD wrote:

> My friend is getting a 72 Delta 88 and asked me to see if any of you could
> estimate how much a new:
> > engine
> paint job
> and re cover the seats would cost?

> Adam Broussard
> 62 F-85 Cutlass Convertible
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 16:45:02 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Completely non-Olds! (Was "Back off man, I'm a scientist!" was: 
is 425 a good motor?)

>Seeing this has finally gotten me to ask a non-Olds
>question. Now, I am sure that there are Chebby 350
>guys on here or at least guys who know. Anyways, a
>buddy of mine has a chev 350 with flat top pistons,
>bored .30 over, and a cam that is suppose to be in a
>pickup. (Unsure of duration at this time) Anyways, he
>has a set of Corvette heads on there that are in bad
>shape. The guides pretty much dump oil into the
>cylinders. Sitting in his parents garage, he has a
>Chev 305 that is in perfect condition less the spun
>main bearing. Question....can we bolt on the 305 heads
>on his 350? Will this create too small of a combustion
>chamber? Will it preignight? Will the valves bottom on
>the piston? I'm sure someone has tried this! Any info?
>
>Also....how many licks does it take to get to the
>center of a tootsie pop? (HEY....I'm not a scientist
>so this is the best I can do! *LOL*)
>===
>Rock-Man


12 licks. How many blondes does it take to hold the tootsie pop? 
Anyway. The 305 heads will fit but they'll have the small valves and 58cc
combustion chambers. That will put his compression in the neighborhood of
10.5:1 or more. You didn't mention the carb and intake he's using but big
compression, small valves and a truck cam that peter's out at 4000 is the
recipe for a mis-matched combination that'll be popping trough the carb at
4200rpm. He'd be much better off with a set of 76cc 1.94 valve heads for
the street. These are dime a dozen for the SBC. What kind of performance is
he looking for? What's the engine in? A good rule of thumb when modifying
SBC's is to go with matched combinations that have been proven power
makers. Edelbrocks performer series stuff works well and doesn't cost an
arm and a leg either. If he's gonna tear it down to change the heads, he
might as well go ahead and put in a good cam and valve train while he's
there. Though it's a good idea, Edelbrocks performer cam is designed to be
installed straight up and doesn't need to be degreed in. I've had great
success with those cams. Got one in my daily driver 355 '70 Camaro right
now. I'm using a Holley Street Dominator intake and 600 Holley vac/sec
carb. HEI w/MSD 6A and 76cc 1.94 heads from a 400 SBC. Hooker headers. It
performs absolutely excellent. She's pretty strong through the low and
midrange considering the 2:73 rear. Match it up and you can't miss.

Omega Man
'74 Omega S 455

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 13:29 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: water as coolant, once more

>From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
>Actually, only at 14.7 psi (sea level conditions).  In Denver, for 
>example, water boils at a lower temperature (that's why cake mixes 
>have different high altitude baking times).  Conversely, under 
>pressure (as in a car cooling system), water boils at a higher 
>temperature.  I seem to recall that with a 14 psi radiator cap (that 
>is, 14 psi over ambient) water boils at something like
>250 deg F. 

>A show of hands - how many remember the formula PV=nRT?
- ------------------------------

I believe PV = nRT  (the ideal gas law) applies to, as you'd expect, 
ideal gases, not to the change in boiling point of a liquid (water) as 
a function of the pressure it is under.

Nevertheless, it is certainly true that the boiling point of water 
rises as the pressure it is under increases, as Joe P. explained.

On the subject of whether antifreeze or straight water is the "better" 
coolant, I think I know the source of the confusion. I seem to recall 
that water has the highest specific heat capacity of almost any 
substance known to man - this means that a gallon of water can soak up 
more heat for a given temperature rise than a gallon of almost 
anything else, including water/antifreeze mixes. This works great if 
you're drag-racing down the quarter-mile starting with a cold engine.  
However in steady-state conditions after the engine has warmed up, the 
function of the coolant is merely to transport heat to the radiator, 
not to actually soak up the heat from the engine per se (it's the 
radiator that gets rid of the heat). For this function the important 
thing is to transfer the heat from the engine block to the coolant, 
and as others have pointed out, pure water can form tiny steam bubbles 
which are good insulators and reduce heat transfer from metal to 
water. So antifreeze/water mix can do a better job.

As to what the optimum ratio of antifreeze to water is, I have know 
idea. But I do remember the antifreeze bottle saying something about 
using no more than 70% or 75% antifreeze in the mix.

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------


Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 16:48:01 -0400
From: "Jason Labay" <jlabay@tdin.com>
Subject: replacing vinyl top on 72 Cutlass

I called today and received estimates on replacing the vinyl top on my 72
Cutlass Supreme and was shocked.  The cheapest I was quoted was $525! I
expected around $150ish.  I am repairing the roof and preppinf it myself.
Still they said it was $525 to install the top, upwards of $800 to prep the
roof themselves. Is that the going rate everywhere else? How hard is it to
install the top myself? I can get a new vinyl top for $60.

Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 15:56:42 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: replacing vinyl top on 72 Cutlass

Jason, 

I guess the african american community is not really big in ohio? Here in 
Louisiana I would go to a small black neighbourhood upholstery. They do a 
great job since they kinda specialize on big old cars that need new vinyl 
tops and interiors. Is this an option? Maybe you don't have these places 
there.

For Example:
A buddy of mine had a quote of 650 (labor only) at a regular dealership for 
top installation. An african american owned shop in town did the job for 200 
bucks and it looks perfect!

Hope this maybe helps. George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

On Mon, 12 Apr 1999, Jason Labay wrote:

> I called today and received estimates on replacing the vinyl top on my 72
> Cutlass Supreme and was shocked.  The cheapest I was quoted was $525! I
> expected around $150ish.  I am repairing the roof and preppinf it myself.
> Still they said it was $525 to install the top, upwards of $800 to prep the
> roof themselves. Is that the going rate everywhere else? How hard is it to
> install the top myself? I can get a new vinyl top for $60.
> 
> Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 17:12:58 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: 77 Pace car id

Corey Putnam wrote:
> 
>   Does anyone know how to i.d. a 77 Delta 88 Pace Car?It has no stickers
> but that doesn`t mean anything. Is there something in the VIN or options
> on the car that might tell me? Thanks.

I have a september `95 issue of the now-defunct GM collector's guide
magazine.  In it there's an article on the `77 pace car and it says many
of the original pace cars were de-striped and repainted.  The silver
paint on the cars that weren't repainted flaked off anyway.  The only
options that were unique to the pace cars were a special air cleaner
decal and a four-prong sport steering wheel...No engine or suspension
mods, single exhaust from te factory.  

BTW the aircleaner decal shown in one of the pictures looks like it has
one of the indy 500 logos.  

Hope that helped.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Crusier
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais
73 98 LS


> 
> Corey Putnam
> 75 H/O W-30
> 87 Regal w/Olds 455
> H/OCA #0915A
> OCC #0208
> OCA #031264
> Check out my home page:
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 16:17:51 -0500
From: "Glen Hankins" <hankins5@hit.net>
Subject: Re: 350 big block vs 350 small block?

Karl-

I believe there were also short and long stroke versions of the 425.

GBH

- -----Original Message-----
From: KarlAunan@aol.com <KarlAunan@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, April 12, 1999 1:26 pm
Subject: Re: 350 big block vs 350 small block?


>In a message dated 99-04-12 13:24:13 EDT, you write:
>
><<  400 (big block - short and long stroke)
> Ford - 352 FE (big block), 351 Windsor (small block), 351 Cleveland (other
>small
> block), 351M (modified Cleveland) >>
>
>Thanks Joe!
>
>1) Karl was not aware that there were different manifestations of the 400
>Olds, but it does stand to reason.
>
>2) Leave it to Frog Motor Company (no offence J McJunkin): Confusion is Job
1.
>
>SOM
>
>&KA
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 17:30:07 EDT
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: R-12 to R-134 conversion

In a message dated 4/12/99 12:12:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time, bloom9@juno.com 
writes:

<< There have been others who have stated that they used the same condenser
 and it worked out fine, this is great!
 But we continue to see posts from people who have went to a lot of
 trouble and expense to only find that the air temp is not as good as
 before.
 
 One of these days when I convert one of my Olds to R-134 I'm going to
 remove my old crusty condenser coil and have one made according to the
 charts for size needed to be the most efficient so I won't have the "too
 hot" blues
 
 Just my two cents worth.
 
 Fred Kemp >>
fred, would it be possible to use two original size condenser coils in a row? 
    steven, w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 14:40:49 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Rally Pack conversion, '80s Delta 88s etc.

> I have recently discovered that some '80s applications used a dual
> terminal sending unit which fed both the light and the gage.

Agreed. (You still need to know which is which. :-)

Older (i.e. up to mid-'60's or so) GM cars used to have dual terminal 
_idiot_light_ switches: one was HOT, the other COLD. Ever seen a big 
green COLD dash warning light? (I saw it on a... '63?... Chevy) You're 
supposed to drive gently until it goes out as the engine warms up.

- -- Andy

_______________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 18:07:31 -0400
From: Gene Gatti <jerseydevil@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: "Back off man, I'm a scientist!" was: is 425 a good motor?

Hi Karl,
   Finally, something I can help you with. Actually it's a no brainer....
DRINK MORE!!
TTYL,
Gene

>On a similar note, Karl may have discovered that he has an alcohol problem.
>When he is in the shower, the alcohol in his beer becomes diluted.
>Are there any known remedies for this?
>
>SOM
>
>&KA  <---- membership for the association for putting things on top of other 
>things rejected.
>Alas.
>And Alad.
>

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Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 18:18:46 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: coolant for engine break in?

  PV=nRT is the Ideal Gas Law, if I remember right.  Doesn't work for liquids.

Dude, former engineer turned harpsichord maker and Olds enthusiast

George wrote:

> On Mon, 12 Apr 1999 Padavano.Joe@orbital.com wrote:
>
> > ...Forgive my physics ignorance, but doesn't water boil at 212 
Fahrenheit?...
> > ________
> >
> > Actually, only at 14.7 psi (sea level conditions).  In Denver, for example,
> > water boils at a lower temperature (that's why cake mixes have different 
high
> > altitude baking times).  Conversely, under pressure (as in a car cooling
> > system), water boils at a higher temperature.  I seem to recall that with 
a 14
> > psi radiator cap (that is, 14 psi over ambient) water boils at something 
like
> > 250 deg F.
> >
> > A show of hands - how many remember the formula PV=nRT?
>
> Now we just need to know how many degrees of freedom the green stuff has!
> Just go to the discount store and ask one of the sales managers! LOL! I
> actually tend to get skin rush when I see this formula!
>
> George
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> '68 Cuttlass S Conv.
> http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
> --------------------------------------------------------------

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Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 18:32:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: ROGER NIENBERG <nienberg.2@wright.edu>
Subject: Remove From List

Please remove me from Olds list.  Thanks for the great advise and tips.


Roger Nienberg 
69' Cutlass S 350/4 speed

nienberg.2@wright.edu

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Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 18:38:14 -0400
From: "Raymond Dowty" <rdowty@CLEMSON.EDU>
Subject: Vinyl top question

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I have a general question about vinyl tops.  My top is in great shape =
except for the area below the rear window.  (This is because it was kept =
in a garage with no garage door so that this area is the only part of =
the roof that got sun.)  The vinyl is pretty worn out in this spot, I =
can see the metal through some of it.  Does anyone know if I can fix =
this somehow myself or if the whole top needs to be replaced?
thanks,
Ray
1970 Oldsmobile 98

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<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have a general question about =
vinyl=20
tops.&nbsp; My top is in great shape except for the area below the rear=20
window.&nbsp; (This is because it was kept in a garage with no garage =
door so=20
that this area is the only part of the roof that got sun.)&nbsp; The =
vinyl is=20
pretty worn out in this spot, I can see the metal through some of =
it.&nbsp; Does=20
anyone know if I can fix this somehow myself or if the whole top needs =
to be=20
replaced?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Ray</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>1970 Oldsmobile =
98</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 18:42:08 -0400
From: "Raymond Dowty" <rdowty@CLEMSON.EDU>
Subject: Flickering lights

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My lights, radio, etc. flicker between bright and not.  I was told it =
might be the voltage regulator but I do not know what that looks like or =
where it is located.  (I am new to this old car thing).  The car is a =
1970 oldsmobile 98.  Any help would be appreciated, or the name of a =
book I can order.  I can't find a chilton's on the car: is there a book =
(or company) devoted to oldsmobiles (especially 98's)?
Thanks,
ray

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>My lights, radio, etc. flicker =
between bright=20
and not.&nbsp; I was told it might be the voltage regulator but I do not =
know=20
what that looks like or where it is located.&nbsp; (I am new to this old =
car=20
thing).&nbsp; The car is a 1970 oldsmobile 98.&nbsp; Any help would be=20
appreciated, or the name of a book I can order.&nbsp; I can't find a =
chilton's=20
on the car: is there a book (or company) devoted to oldsmobiles =
(especially=20
98's)?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>ray</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1900
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