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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1959


oldsmobile-digest        Sunday, May 16 1999        Volume 01 : Number 1959



Re: 1972 442
Re: Rear Axle bearings
'69 OAI bumper air scoops. 
Re: Wasps
Re: ELECTRICAL H*LP - "I just got this thing back together...
What went wrong?
Re: '69 OAI bumper air scoops. 
Re: Great Midwestern Caravan of 1999.
Re: 65-70 Big Car Wheel Offset
[Fwd: 1966 Oldsmobile for sale]
Re: 1972 442
Re: '69 OAI bumper air scoops. 
Re: Holley carb
Intro, items available
Re: H*LP - Engine noise
Re: What went wrong?
Re: Intro, items available
Re: ELECTRICAL H*LP - "I just got this thing back together...
Re: H*LP - Engine noise
Re: Wasps!
Great Weekend
In Need of a Radiator for my '66
Re: H*LP - Engine noise
well the time is upon me
Design Your Own Issue of Car Craft
Re: ELECTRICAL H*LP - "I just got this thing back together...
NHRA!
Re: W-Machine Registry
Re: front end clunk
Re: front end clunk
Re: Wasps!
Re: H*LP - Engine noise
Re: H*LP - Engine noise
Re: Intro, items available
yahoo 72 is runnin !!
Re: What went wrong?
UNBOUNCE: drain plug for 1961 olds
Re: In Need of a Radiator for my '66

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 20:08:15 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1972 442

In a message dated 5/14/99 11:13:18 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM writes:

<< The letter U signifies the L75 455, while the letter X signifies the W-30
 (you can probably guess that I don't remember the letters for the 350
 motors...). 
 
 Joe Padavano >>

Hey Joe I'm suprised at you not remembering something about an Oldsmobile. 
Must be getting old.  lol.

In 1972 there are 4 different 350s listed.

2 barrel - 160 hp - code H
2 barrel -  175 hp (dual exhaust) - code J
4 barrel - 180 hp - code K
4 barrel - 200 hp (dual exhaust) - code M

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 20:12:38 -0400
From: "M. Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Rear Axle bearings

> While putting my axles back in the housing I managed to separate one.
This
> turned out to be a good thing because what I saw would have definitely
been
> a problem.  The inside of the bearing was severely pitted and scored.  My
> question is,  Has anyone replaced axle bearings before and where did you
get
> them?  Also what about doing a complete axle swap.  For big block Olds
power
> it would seem wise to get some hi performance axles and bearings.  Anyone
do
> this?  What company did you go with?

Just replaced my rear axle bearings a few weeks ago. One seal was leaking
and the other came out in two pieces.
Bought heavy duty replacements from Supercars Unlimited. The have the seals
and bearings combined and have dual   O-Ring seals on the outside diameter;
good for worn bearing housings. They went in easily and have been fine so
far.
I did replace my 2.56 open original diff. a couple of years ago with a 3:23
posi unit from a 70 GTO. It's still a 10 bolt, O type rearend and has the
8.5" ring gear with 28 spline axles. Not much different than your 65, except
you probably have an 8.2" ring gear.
Hope this is of some help.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie, Melbourne, FL
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/~mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 20:35:10 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: '69 OAI bumper air scoops. 

Is there any company reproducing or someone that has a set of induction
scoops for a 1969 OAI? I'm talking about the hard plastic snorkel that fits
into the bumper (I believe) than connects to the flex hose that heads up to
the air cleaner. I need just the bumper scoops. Are these available
anywhere?

They look as though they may fit within the open bumper slot of the G-body
bumpers. I would like to setup a pair of front disk brake coolers using
these bumper slots as the air collection point

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 20:43:16 -0400
From: Miguel Morales <Mike.Morales@wcom.com>
Subject: Re: Wasps

I could of sworn that mud daubers do sting. I once took a screen off a home
window and three black ones came out and one stung. This was down on the Gulf
Coast. After getting stung I could see those little pots they built. Those
rascals. I've also seen these in wheel weels and front fenders where the engine
heat keeps them warm without roasting them.

Mike.Morales@wcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 21:00:47 -0400
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: ELECTRICAL H*LP - "I just got this thing back together...

Funky dash lights and gauges happened to me too after I converted my 86
Cutlass Supreme idiot lights to the rallye pac gauges.  The solution
that worked for me every time was to remove the gauges and with an ice
pick (and the neg battery cable taken off) I would spread the connectors
out to make a better connection.  Any time you remove the gauges the
connectors get flattened out a little and don't make the connection
correctly.  Also make sure the retaining screws for the gauges are as
tight as they can be without stripping them as this improves the
connection as well.  It could be any one of them so check them all.  The
one that I had the most trouble with was the fuel gauge connection. 
When I would turn on my lights at night I would get the pegged fuel
gauge, both directionals on the inside and the bright indicator would
light up, and no instrument lights.  Sounds just like what you got. 
Good luck!
Brian.

Peter Berusch wrote:
> 
> Try an independent ground for the speedo.  Peter.
> 
> >I'm not gonna' let anybody tear it apart!" - Empire
> >
> >I need some assistance.  I have a problem that developed two nights ago and
> >has not "gone away" like I hoped - it involves some SERIOUSLY funky
> >behavior by my dashboard lights.
> >
> >For those of you just tuning in, I'm Brian, 1984 Delta 88 Royale Brougham
> >4-door.  I recently did a few repairs to my car that are possible culprits
> >of the problem I'm about to describe - namely , I replaced the braided
> >grounding strap, in the engine compartment, that ran from the firewall to
> >the back of the block below the driver's side head, and I recently added a
> >factory gage package to my car (my car does NOT have the Y67 reminder
> >package).  Both of these repairs were done approx. 1 week ago, with no
> >appearant problems (until this one).
> >
> >WITH HEADLIGHTS OFF -
> >
> >no problems.  The hazzard lights don't blink (but they havn't for some
> >time).  The fuel gage and both turn signals work correctly.
> >
> >WHEN I TURN THE HEADLIGHTS ON -
> >
> >the speedo cluster lights are _dramatically_ reduced from normal
> >brilliance.  This despite the fact that the gage lights and the A/C control
> >lights are normal - dimming the interior lights with the rotary knob causes
> >the speedo lights to go from zero (off) to their current messed-up level,
> >but no higher.  I have full range of "dimming control" with the gage and
> >A/C lights, from zero to their full (and normal) brilliance.
> >
> >Along with the "not-bright" speedo cluster lights, both turn signals and
> >the bright indicator are semi-lit up (about the same percentage of their
> >normal brilliance as the speedo-cluster lights are).
> >
> >The "Fasten Seat Belts" light (which is not supposed to work at all in my
> >car, but still has occasionally come on for short periods of time, and for
> >no appearant reason) is now BARELY illuminated whenever either the
> >headlights or running lights are on.
> >
> >Using the turn-signal (in either direction) causes BOTH turn signals AND
> >the bright indicator AND the "Fasten Seat Belt" light to flash a little
> >brighter, as the speedo cluster lights go out entirely.
> >
> >Turning the brights on causes no change in the bright indicator (so still
> >kind of semi-illuminated) , causes both turn indicators to light up to
> >their full brilliance, and causes the speedo cluster lights to go off
> >entirely.
> >
> >The fuel gage "shorts out" and pegs at zero as soon as you pull the
> >headlight knob (to either running lights only or headlights).  Turning the
> >headlights back off causes the the fuel gage to function correctly.
> >
> >THERE ARE NO OPERATIONAL PROBLEMS WITH EXTERNAL LIGHTS - in other words,
> >even though signaling to either the right or left causes the dashboard to
> >act like a crack addict, both the front and rear turn signals work
> >properly.  Same thing with the brights - the dashboard completely shuts
> >down, but the brights come on.
> >
> >Pretty weird, huh?  Who's got the answers?
> >---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -
> >Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
> >MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
> >2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
> >Austin, TX 78722          Home: (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
> >                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
> >1984 Oldsmobile          Pager: (512) 483-8056
> > Delta 88  RB                   (713) 318-5938
> > 4-door
> >"The Party Barge"
> >---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 21:39:34 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: What went wrong?

I was behind a car with a bumper sticker on it the other day.  It said
something to the effect of - "Federal Government Slogan - If it ain't
broke, fix it until it is."

This fits me to a "T".

I tuned the '67 Ninety Eight today in anticipation of the trip to Texas
next month.  Thought I'd better start early.  It's a good thing I did. 
The car in now running poorly, worse than when I started.

Replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points and condenser.

I ordered the plugs the other day.  Didn't take the shop manual along. 
Told my parts guy what I needed.  Said I thought they were 46S plugs. 
He looked them up in the 'puter and came up with 44S.  "Cold plugs" he
remarked.  So we ordered them.  I checked the shop manual when I got
home and it does ask for 44S for all H.C. engines. (L.C. engines use 45S
and the straight 6s use 46N.)  So when I took the old plugs out today,
they're 46S.  Why would this be?  If 44S are cold plugs, wouldn't 46S be
hotter?  The car is now knocking terribly - haven't touched the timing
yet.  I would think the car would knock with hotter plugs (46S) rather
than colder ones (44S).  But then, lower compression calls for a higher
plug number (45S), and the six calls for a still higher number (46N). 
So, why would the six (46N) need hotter plugs than my H.C. V8 (44S)? 
I'm assuming that the higher the number the hotter the plug - am I
wrong?  Maybe the lower the number the hotter the plug and the 44S are
actually the hotter ones and I need to go back to the 46S.  Someone
please explain this to me.

Anyway, plugs were gapped at .030.  Plug wire routing was checked
twice.  Points were set at .019.  Once the car was running the dwell was
set to 30 degrees.

I wouldn't say the car misses.  Car idles poorly.  Doesn't stall, but
acts like it wants to sometimes.  Sputters out of the tail pipe, but not
with a pattern like a crossed wire.  Some of this may be carb related. 
But it wasn't running like this with the old parts installed.  Knocking
occurs under even the lightest throttle (like just driving through my
developement).  I haven't changed the timing settings yet - afraid to do
anything else.  It was getting late anyway.

Please give your opinions on this plug thing.  I remember going through
this a few years ago with this car.  The parts store didn't have AC
Delco plugs, so they sold me Accel (or thing like that - they were
yellow!) that were apparently the substitute for the 44S that is
required.  Car ran terrible then and I returned them and cleaned and
regapped the existing plugs.  Looks like I'll have to do that again...

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 21:44:13 EDT
From: S61starfir@aol.com
Subject: Re: '69 OAI bumper air scoops. 

In a message dated 5/15/99 8:36:46 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
gjcouse@francomm.com writes:

<< 
 Is there any company reproducing or someone that has a set of induction
 scoops for a 1969 OAI? I'm talking about the hard plastic snorkel that fits
 into the bumper (I believe) than connects to the flex hose that heads up to
 the air cleaner. I need just the bumper scoops. Are these available
 anywhere?
  >>
Karls' Korner , his name is Karl Sarpolis, Jr   1-708-614-4906, Karl does a 
nice repo on these scoops as well as the trim for the


Everett OCA# 1961  1961 Starfire
Antiqolds@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 22:00:51 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Great Midwestern Caravan of 1999.

KarlAunan@aol.com wrote:

> So, Paul, wanna take a longer, less interesting, trip that goes farther out
> of your way?
> 
> We'll do Lunch!
> (Rather quickly whilst we pump gas.....)

How can I politely decline such a generous invitation???????

Uh... NO!  Not even if you're buying lunch (and gas).

With approx. 3000 miles and 6-7 days on the road (round trip), this is
just a little too much.  Really.  Maybe next time?

Paul
(you take the high road and I'll take the low road and I'll be in Irving
afore ya)
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 22:07:17 -0400
From: "Robin Pajak" <robinp@us.hsanet.net>
Subject: Re: 65-70 Big Car Wheel Offset

Chris Fair wrote:
<SNIP>I'm teetering on the edge of just going to 15 X 7 or 15 X 8 wheels
just so I
can swap over to disk brakes down the line, but really like the 14" rim
hubcaps from 66 (the deluxe vaned ones-cool).

Thoughts?


**********
I'm wrestling with the same choices on my 65 Delta 88.
1) You can't get a tall enough 14" radial to match the stock size 8.00 or
8.50-14 bias-ply tire
2) OK, so switch to 15" wheels.
3) Now, how do I use my 14" 2 bar spinner wire wheel hubcaps????

I've asked before but I'll ask again:

Has anyone seen "hubcap adapters" in the "use-14"-hubcaps-on-15"-wheels
configuration? Versions DO exist for using 15" hubcaps on 16" wheels.......I
know 'cause I own a set. They snap onto the wheel and the cap snaps into
them.

John Pajak
65 Delta 88 (with 14" wheels!)
+ a whole lot more
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
or
http://drive.to/pajak

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 22:16:12 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: [Fwd: 1966 Oldsmobile for sale]

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- --------------6D085F511746
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Got this in the email.  Too far for any of our Chapter members to be
interested, so I'm forwarding to the list.  816 must be K.C.  There ya
go, Karl, a playmate for SOM.  You'll be going by there, won't you?

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

- --------------6D085F511746
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Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 16:33:41 -0500

From: Conny J Todd <ctctctct@swbell.net>
Reply-To: ctctctct@swbell.net
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Subject: 1966 Oldsmobile for sale
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I have a one owner 1966 Oldsmobile Luxury Sedan  with 55000 miles for
sale. The car has new radial tires and is in very good condition . The
color of the car is silver and has a black vinyl top. I will be glad to
deliver at no cost to the buyer. 
If you know of anyone who maybe interested please have them contact me
at (816)781-8297 or (816)792-2222 or contact me by email at
ctctctct@swbell.net.

My asking price is $5500.00.


- --------------6D085F511746--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 22:30:20 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1972 442

In a message dated 5/15/99 8:09:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
LOUS69W30@AOL.COM writes:

<< The letter U signifies the L75 455 >>
Was there a letter V to signify the 4speed L75 from the U for the automatic 
455 in 72 like in 73. Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 22:45:42 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: '69 OAI bumper air scoops. 

In a message dated 5/15/99 8:36:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
gjcouse@francomm.com writes:

<< Is there any company reproducing or someone that has a set of induction
 scoops for a 1969 OAI? I'm talking about the hard plastic snorkel that fits
 into the bumper (I believe) than connects to the flex hose that heads up to
 the air cleaner. I need just the bumper scoops. Are these available
 anywhere? >>

Year One has them for $145.00 a pair.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 22:48:33 EDT
From: LPBuilder@aol.com
Subject: Re: Holley carb

 Its an after market 600 CFM.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 23:05:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Intro, items available

Greetings... fellow Rocket Scientists

I suppose I qualify as a new subscriber, having been off for 2-3 years now.
Some may remember me as one of the contributors to the wealth of information
we call the FAQ, largely what engines are what and how to tell by looking at
them, presuming they are no longer in the original car.

Information that I found hard to come by, yet very useful.

So, I have a '68 442 convertible, now seeing active duty once again, needs
bodywork & a top... was a W30, is going to be again. The power is currently
supplied by a bone stock '67 425-4V motor that was for many years too good to
use. And, a there's a twin post coupe rusyt MI car, needs major body repair,
but have a nice 455 built for it, see motor on www.442.com... D block, K heads,
JM28-29 cam. Tri-carb intake.

I am cynical and will not hesitate to call on the carpet anyone who claims
their 307 makes 478 HP [it HAS happened here...].

I live in Lansing, MI, work for a company that builds seat motors and ABS
motors.  And, I have about 50 parts cars. Which brings me to the resubscribing
reason... Lots of folks about here used to work for Olds... one such gentleman
recently decided to clean out the garage. Numerous items came my way from a guy
that used to work at Olds Engineering.... I would like to submit a list of
these items and see if y'all need any of them.

I am currently negotiating the purchase of a Harley Davidson, so if I can
unload a few items I may get to KEEP the HD too. Consequently, you readers may
take 50% off the prices I have put forth as reasonable asking prices, thru say
6/30/99 anyhow. I got about 100 items worth mentioning, another 100 piddly
items, and about 10ft of shop manuals. I still need to decide which of the
manuals to keep for the RS library, but there will be many up for grabs.

I urge you folks who can to search your local scrap metal yards regularly. Make
filers detailing what you might be interested in... I have found MANY bitchin'
jewels like that, not the least of which was a Corvette ZR-1 motor, in the 
scrap
pile, holes punched thru the block in several places... sold for $800 within a
week. Currently have a similar Northstar 32-valve V8, sans holes. Have found a
few W30 pieces this way. Still MIA: the famous, but verified to exist, forged
455 crank, and the infamous never-verified-to-exist.... SOLID MAIN WEB 403!
Yep, my $50 reward STILL stands for PROOF that these SMW 403's exist. Not
rumor, not stories, not "for sure, but I don't have it apart right now...".

So, if no objections, I will fwd to the list the never before available items,
a few radios, AM/FM/CB... Flipper door 8-track, etc. I will also provide a list
of parts cars if there's interest, and will send a list of Rocket Science items
via email to those who request.

meanwhile...
  ===============================
>Pretty weird, huh?  Who's got the answers?
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
>1984 Oldsmobile          Pager: (512) 483-8056
==============
Brian, could I interest you in a set of 1984 manuals, or maybe just the
Electrical Testing Manual?

I see 2 possibilities- your turn signal switch/ wiring is fubar'd, much of the
affected wiring runs thru there, or... more likely, you added gages w/o
modifying wiring to match. Easy telltale- swap back to old dash, see how it
behaves then.

- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

Listed on www.442.com as "Rocket Science"
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 23:06:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: H*LP - Engine noise

On Sat, 15 May 1999, Brian Ammons wrote:
> KEY POINT (Why I'm writing the E-mail) - I was playing with the car today,
> and I pulled the spark plug wire off the #2 cylinder (farthest forward,
> passenger's side), AND THE NOISE WENT AWAY.  

Sounds like a bad wrist pin or rod bearing.   Change the oil out to either
20w50 or straight 50 and see if the noise goes.  If it goes it's probably
the rod bearing.  If it stays, it's most likely a wrist pint.

> MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    -->   bob@tecmark.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 23:18:35 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: What went wrong?

> Replaced plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points and condenser.

> I ordered the plugs the other day.  Didn't take the shop manual along. 

There's not that much of a difference from 44's to 46's, at least not
enough to cause the problems you're having.

> I wouldn't say the car misses.  Car idles poorly.  Doesn't stall, but
> acts like it wants to sometimes.  Sputters out of the tail pipe, but not

Could be bad out of the box plug wires...  it happens!

> Please give your opinions on this plug thing.  I remember going through
> this a few years ago with this car.  The parts store didn't have AC
> Delco plugs, so they sold me Accel (or thing like that - they were

I tried the Accel's once and wasn't impressed.  Try putting the old parts
back in one at a time until you find the culprit.   I'd suspect the wires
first, plugs 2nd, and the condensor 3rd.

> Paul Hartlieb
> Myerstown, PA
> mailto:plh@nbn.net

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    -->   bob@tecmark.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 22:03:49 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: Intro, items available

>meanwhile...
>  ===============================
>>Pretty weird, huh?  Who's got the answers?
>>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
>>1984 Oldsmobile          Pager: (512) 483-8056
>==============
>Brian, could I interest you in a set of 1984 manuals, or maybe just the
>Electrical Testing Manual?

No - I have them them all.  Tried to use them extensively when I put the
gages in, only to discover that while very close, the diagrams did not
match what was actually in the car.

>I see 2 possibilities- your turn signal switch/ wiring is fubar'd, much of
the
>affected wiring runs thru there,

Very possible.  How would I verify this?

 or... more likely, you added gages w/o
>modifying wiring to match. Easy telltale- swap back to old dash, see how it
>behaves then.

Yet the dash worked FINE after I added the gages.  A week to two weeks has
since gone by, and only now am I seeing problems.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88  RB                   (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 22:07:47 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: ELECTRICAL H*LP - "I just got this thing back together...

At 09:00 PM 5/14/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Funky dash lights and gauges happened to me too after I converted my 86
>Cutlass Supreme idiot lights to the rallye pac gauges.  The solution
>that worked for me every time was to remove the gauges and with an ice
>pick (and the neg battery cable taken off) I would spread the connectors
>out to make a better connection.  Any time you remove the gauges the
>connectors get flattened out a little and don't make the connection
>correctly.

I'm not sure what you're talking about - are you referring to the 12-cavity
connector that plugs into the printed circuit (that goes to the idiot
lights) on the back of the cluster carrier?  

Also make sure the retaining screws for the gauges are as
>tight as they can be without stripping them as this improves the
>connection as well.  It could be any one of them so check them all.

"Any one of the gages"?  My Oil, Temp, and Volts gages all work fine, it's
only the fuel gage that's got the problem (and only with the lights on).

  The
>one that I had the most trouble with was the fuel gauge connection. 
>When I would turn on my lights at night I would get the pegged fuel
>gauge, both directionals on the inside and the bright indicator would
>light up, and no instrument lights.  Sounds just like what you got. 
>Good luck!

I'm hoping that you are talking about the 12-cavity connector I mentioned
previously.  Those connectors DO get flattened out.  Are you suggesting
that one of them was too flattened out and has slipped out of it's cavity?
This would make sense, except why does the fuel gage work when the lights
are not on?
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88  RB                   (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 22:10:08 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: H*LP - Engine noise

>Sounds like a bad wrist pin or rod bearing.   Change the oil out to either
>20w50 or straight 50 and see if the noise goes.  If it goes it's probably
>the rod bearing.  If it stays, it's most likely a wrist pint.

On which cylinder, the one I pulled the plug off of?  I was thinking that
it was another piston, and that by pulling the #2 wire I was cancelling out
the bad piston, thus giving me two pistons missing and no noise.  But I was
just guessing (and that's why I asked all of you smart people...)
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88  RB                   (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 23:35:22 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: Wasps!

Mike Bloomer wrote:
> 
> I had a 67 Mustang with the same problem.  I picked them off one by one
> (those cans of wasp spray can shoot amazingly far) until I had reduced
> their number to a manageable level. 

That stuff is great for wasp infestation.  When a bunch of 'em come at
you, run like hell for 10 yards or so, turn and start hosing them.  I
try to keep a can in the toolbox for trips to the junkyard in the
summer.  If you can get close enough to the nest undetected, liberal
spraying with WD-40 will take them out.  They can't fly far coated in
that goop, can't hang on, and it will suffocate one in a few minutes. 
Good to know if you don't have any wasp spray.  If you're trying to get
rid of a nest in a beater or junker spray paint does a fine job too.  

If a car's been sitting a long time I drum on it with the palms of my
hands.  I bang on all the panels before I open any doors or hoods, and
keep a sharp eye out.  Anything that might sting will fly out to see
what the racket is and I can find the nests and take 'em out if it's
neccesary.  It's my theory that it helps to run off snakes too.  They
can't hear but they sense vibration and hopefully will clear out of the
car or at least won't be surprized when they see me.  

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser 
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais
73 98 LS

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 23:31:40 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Great Weekend

Hope everybody is having a good weekend.  Mine has been great so far. 
We?ve been having beautiful weather here in New Jersey so I took Friday off 
to get my car ready for a show on Saturday and another on Sunday.

I installed a new front speaker I got from Year One.  It was a perfect 
reproduction  from AC - Delco.  After taking out the front passenger seat so 
I would have some room to work, I got the speaker in, hooked up the radio and 
8-track player and the radio now plays great - even though it is 30 years old.

Then on Saturday I got a third place trophy at the show.  Also Hot Rod 
Harry?s dad was there with his 65 442 with original paint.  Looked awesome.  
He took second place.  Hot Rod missed it.  He was looking for a new ride.

Hopefully I?ll have some more good news on Sunday.  Any of you Jersey guys 
want to go to a good show it?s in Princeton on Route 1 and Alexander Road.  
They usually have a big show field, new car dealers, rides for the kids, it?s 
really good.

Until then enjoy the rest of your weekend.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 03:54:17 GMT
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: In Need of a Radiator for my '66

Hi all,

I am shopping around for a new OEM radiator for my '66 Delta 88, 425V8 w/ 
A/C.

So far I priced:
1)  $290  Radiator shop in Austin.
2)  $250  over the net.
3)  $220  Modine 4 row  Parts America...local.
4)  $180  ?      3 row  AutoZone...local.

Does anyone know the parts # of a descent OEM manf. or a comparible 
aftermarket?

TIA,

Chris Rivier
Austin,TX
'66 Delta 88   The BEAST under CONSTRUCTION.
'88 Festiva   ZIPPY 166K Lil' Parts Hauler.
WrEck PiX @ http://www2.bladeti.com/cars


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 23:57:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: H*LP - Engine noise

On Sat, 15 May 1999, Brian Ammons wrote:

> On which cylinder, the one I pulled the plug off of?  

That's right.  Since there's no combustion going on in #2 you're reducing
the load on both the piston pin and the rod bearing for that cylinder.  By  
putting in heavier oil, if the rod bearing IS bad, it will take up some
of gap in the bearing, thus reducing (or eliminating) the noise.   Wrist
pins won't respond as well.

I put over 20k on a '85 307 that knocked even with straight 50 oil...
One thing I'll say about Olds bottom ends, they never seem to come apart.
They'll knock like hell but never seem to let loose.

> Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
> MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    -->   bob@tecmark.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 23:11:38 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: well the time is upon me

well the tired old worn out 350 in the 442 just died  the timing chain gave
out in the driveway
drove home turned off the engine the next day no gogo well tore it down
today replaced chain kit threw it all back together and voila no 0 zippo
nada zilch the big goose egg compression is in the negative before you all
say I put it together wrong no I dont think so been doin this for a few
years think I can do this but any way think the car was pi$$ed for the 16.7
it ran at the strip ( ran the sorry thing one run) she got ticked at the
time and threw a tantrum removed the plugs and ran leakdown check and the
air just comes out the intake and exhaust with the rockers removed! can you
say bent valve, my sister lost her chain while going down the freeway no
wories new chain easy go mine throws it in the driveway at idle and I get
bent valves where is the justice in the world POS 350 2bbl. low compression
engine but negs is just ridiculous well she will get rewarded with a 455 for
throwing a tantrum brand new just built a new project for another
weekend.....KK

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 23:42:03 -0500
From: Mark <greenmm@earthlink.net>
Subject: Design Your Own Issue of Car Craft

Deadline: June 15, 1999
  E-mail: carcraft@petersenpub.com
  Snail-mail: 	My Issue of Car Craft
		6420 Wilshire Blvd.
		Los Angeles, CA
			90048

  Phone in: 323-782-2018

  This is an exact copy of the form found in the June-1999 issue of Car
Craft on pg. 75

- ----------------------------------

FEATURE CARS

	Brands of cars you most wan to see in Car Craft (chech your faves):

____ AMC        ____ Ford       ____ Olds
____ Buick      ____ Mercury    ____ Pontiac
____ Chevy      ____ Mopar      ____ Other

	Types of cars you'd like to see featured (check all the ones you really
dig):

____ Daily Drivers: Nice cars with a few rock chips, but they're
either      cool-looking enough, fast enough, or cheap enough to make
'em 	     worth looking at.

____ Show Cars: Way-clean, ultra-detail cars that never really get 	
     driven but may have some good building tips on 'em.

____ Fast Beaters: Cars that don't look that great but are either
cheap,      fast, or both.

____ Street Racers: NMCA-style cars found in the EZ Street or Real 	    
Street classes-clean, street-legal 9- and 10-second performers 	    
that somewhat stock.

____ Restorations: Dead-stock but super-clean original musclecars.

____ Pro Street: Tubbed street 'n' show cars

____ Pro Touring: Cornering/braking/efficiency cars, usually with 	    
high-tech injection, huge brakes, and overdrive trannies.

Got any better ideas?
_______________________________
_______________________________
_______________________________

FEATURE STORY

	Pick one story that will tell us what to do with our vacation days this
year.

____ We go top-speed racing for cheap
____ We go bracket racing and explain how it works
____ Guide to cool car museums nationwide
____ How to score parts for cheap at swap meets
____ We drive some ludicrous street machine cross-country and live to 	
tell about it
____ Test-thrashing the cheapest rental cars
____ A week in the life of the Car Craft staff
____ Car Craft takes you through stunt-car school
____ Junkyard-scrounging secrets, plus a guide to the best yards 	
nationwide

SHOOTOUTS

	Vote for two
____ Buick vs. Olds vs. Pontiac 455s
____ Stock disc brakes vs. trick disc brakes
____ Carburetor vs. affordable throttle-body injection
____ Holley vs. Edelbrock carbs
____ Flat hood vs. cowl hood vs. hood scoop vs. ram air
____ Low compression (9.5:1) vs. high compression (12.5:1)
____ Chevy cost-per-power shootout: big-block vs. small-block
____ New Camaro vs. new Mustang
____ Blower vs. nitrous
____ Torque converter shootout: 2,500 vs. 3,000 vs. 3,500 rpm


DO-IT-YOURSELF TECH


	These aren't easy bolt-ons just anyone could do, but more hard-core
stuff that no one really makes instructions for. Pick two.

____ How to assemble a mail-order short-block engine at home
____ Can you rebuild your own automatic tranny?
____ Get a good paintjob under $1,000
____ Install your own rollcage
____ How to supertune carb and ignition for speed
____ How to set up rearend gears
____ Swap in a junkyard fuel-injected engine using mostly stock parts
____ Wiring tips and tricks
____ How to port your own cylinder heads
____ How to choose the right camshaft


STORY YOU NEVER WANT TO SEE AGAIN

	Is there a stopry or subject that just keeps coming up and you hate it
more every time?  Tell us about it.  We may ignore you, but we'd like to
know your beef.

I'll barf the next time I read about:
_________________________________________
_________________________________________
_________________________________________
_________________________________________
_________________________________________

ENGINE BUILDUP

 Step 1: Write in the brand and displacement of the engine we should
build (Examples: Olds 455, Rambler 327, AMC 401, Chevy 350-anything you
want).

	Engine brand:_________________
	Displacement:_________________

 Step 2: Choose how you'd like to see the engine built by checking ONE
of the options from this list.  Get that? One!  No more, no less.

____ The Junkyard Screamer: We'll find a complete, high-mileage, stock
engine from the junkyard, then show you how to get it running and make
as much power as possible with easy bolt-on parts.

____ Basic Street Engine: No big tricks here-just a sensible,
entry-level motor built smart on a family budget.  It'll be easy to
build at home, make enough power to run 13s in an average car, and still
be smooth and reliable enough for daily driving.

____ Affordable Stroker: Once you tell us the engine you want to build,
we'll find the most practical way to stroke it for more cubic inches
without breaking the bank.  A Dyno will tell us if it was worth it.

____ Killer Sleeper: How much power can we make with an engine that
looks dead stock on the outside?  We'll show you how to make the air
cleaner, carb, intake, heads, and manifold look like resto items but
still haul the Wheaties.

____ Nitrous Blaster: This one will be an engine that's tame enough to
drive to a cruise night, to the track, and maybe even to work once in a
while but bulletproof enough to take a hit of nitrous from a big plate
system fir killer dragstrip timeslips.

____ Extreme Tech: Want high-end injection and maybe even a centrifugal
blower to match? We'll do it with a cost-is-no-object, modern-tech mill.

 Step 3: If you don't see anything you like, write in your own idea.

 Hey, Car Craft-your ideas stink. Try this instead:
__________________________________________________
__________________________________________________
__________________________________________________
__________________________________________________
__________________________________________________
__________________________________________________
__________________________________________________

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 00:51:34 -0400
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: ELECTRICAL H*LP - "I just got this thing back together...

Yup, that's it exactly.  Funny part is, sometimes when I would maneuver
the gauge cluster around in the dash I could get different things to
work and not work just by a slight movement.  After trying everything
else I just un-flattened those connectors and everything worked great. 
For some reason these things are pretty sensitive to being removed and
replaced.  
Brian.

Brian Ammons wrote:
> 
> At 09:00 PM 5/14/99 -0400, you wrote:
> >Funky dash lights and gauges happened to me too after I converted my 86
> >Cutlass Supreme idiot lights to the rallye pac gauges.  The solution
> >that worked for me every time was to remove the gauges and with an ice
> >pick (and the neg battery cable taken off) I would spread the connectors
> >out to make a better connection.  Any time you remove the gauges the
> >connectors get flattened out a little and don't make the connection
> >correctly.
> 
> I'm not sure what you're talking about - are you referring to the 12-cavity
> connector that plugs into the printed circuit (that goes to the idiot
> lights) on the back of the cluster carrier?
> 
> Also make sure the retaining screws for the gauges are as
> >tight as they can be without stripping them as this improves the
> >connection as well.  It could be any one of them so check them all.
> 
> "Any one of the gages"?  My Oil, Temp, and Volts gages all work fine, it's
> only the fuel gage that's got the problem (and only with the lights on).
> 
>   The
> >one that I had the most trouble with was the fuel gauge connection.
> >When I would turn on my lights at night I would get the pegged fuel
> >gauge, both directionals on the inside and the bright indicator would
> >light up, and no instrument lights.  Sounds just like what you got.
> >Good luck!
> 
> I'm hoping that you are talking about the 12-cavity connector I mentioned
> previously.  Those connectors DO get flattened out.  Are you suggesting
> that one of them was too flattened out and has slipped out of it's cavity?
> This would make sense, except why does the fuel gage work when the lights
> are not on?
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
> MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
> 2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
> Austin, TX 78722          Home:  (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
>                                               (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
> 1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:  (512) 483-8056
>         Delta 88  RB                   (713) 318-5938
>                 4-door
> "The Party Barge"
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 00:56:35 -0400
From: Gasman24 <stulk@bellsouth.net>
Subject: NHRA!

Hi list,
 I though since week-end posts are kinda few I'd post this. Hope you
don't mind.
 And yes there is some Olds content in this!  Got up this morning and
decided what the heck, lets go down to Commerce Ga. and watch the
Southern Nat's today. Why not great weather and it's only 75 miles down
the road.
 Well when we got there the Street Stock were running, I was suprised at
the ammount of Olds I saw, there were 5 or 6 80's Cutlass's, I only saw
1 70 (I think) Cutlass. Now before anyone ask's I had the times & speeds
commited to memory, ~but~ after 20 plus Top Fuel passes, heck, I
could'nt even see straight!(And that was'nt from malted beverages!) But
they all left the lights wheels up! Cool
 After one class ran we decided to check out the action in the pits,
that was awesome! I'm sure most of you guys here have been to a Top
Fuel/Nito drag race before, but if you haven't, you've got to get to
one! This is just the second one I've been to, but back to the point, we
were standing there watching and they fired one of thoes nitro bad boys
up. It was a sound that I cannot describe! Then they hit the gas, CRAP!
it had people running in all directions! I have never heard something so
loud in my life! They have a tent that comes off the side of the car
hauler wich makes the pit area, I swear I thought it was going to be
blown away. After they would shut down the engine the people that were
watching (my self included) would yell and cheer. I kinda think the
teams "blip" the gas just for the fans. But what do I know. My eyes and
nose still burn from the nitro.
 On another note I did see some weird cars/trucks, there was a 90ish
'vette with a V6! Talk about a swarm of bees. And a Ford ranger 4banger.
 Then sadly came the time to depart, after several hours of loudness and
hot sun my 2 daughters had all they could take! Hey at least they liked
it. And the fact that they're 11 and 9 I thought that was neat, they
even wanted shirts, oh yeah they got Kenny Bernstein to sigh 'em too!
On the way out the nitro's were finishing up and we were 300 yards (or
more) from the track and the sound from these car's were setting off car
alarms all in the parking lot.
 Well if you still reading this, sorry for the rambling but I'm still
pumped up!
 Talk to everyone later,
    Scott (ears still ringing)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 01:06:17 EDT
From: GraphixRUs@aol.com
Subject: Re: W-Machine Registry

I haven't been on here for a while.
Who do we send the info to for the W-30 registry?
I have a 68.
Thanks.
Roger Utter

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 23:15:19 -0600
From: "Jeff Newman" <newsance@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: front end clunk

Is it just when you make that turn? Could just be wheel float...
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dave Cullen <david.cullen@snet.net>
To: Oldsmobile Mail List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, May 15, 1999 8:53 AM
Subject: front end clunk


>If this problem is as hard to diagnose as it is to describe, I'm in
trouble.
>
>Backing down the driveway, I turn the wheel sharp to enter the street,
>sometimes run over the curb (oops). When the front wheel comes down over
the
>curb, I get a "clunk" that I can feel in the steering wheel.
>
>I had a front end alignment a year ago, they replaced the center link.
>Steering seems tight with very little play. I get no clunks going over
bumps
>while normal driving. Only going slow, with the wheels turned sharp.
>
>Monroe shocks are 15,000 miles old. The 85 Delta has 146,000.
>
>Any Ideas?
>
>drc
>
>
>

________________________________________________________
NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet.  Shouldn't you?
Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 23:16:58 -0600
From: "Jeff Newman" <newsance@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: front end clunk

Actually, thinking about it, My '84 park ave does the same thing. Tight
turns at snail pace, and for a second a little thunk, right? I don't think
it is anything to be worried about, my car has always done this..
- -----Original Message-----
From: Dave Cullen <david.cullen@snet.net>
To: Oldsmobile Mail List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, May 15, 1999 8:53 AM
Subject: front end clunk


>If this problem is as hard to diagnose as it is to describe, I'm in
trouble.
>
>Backing down the driveway, I turn the wheel sharp to enter the street,
>sometimes run over the curb (oops). When the front wheel comes down over
the
>curb, I get a "clunk" that I can feel in the steering wheel.
>
>I had a front end alignment a year ago, they replaced the center link.
>Steering seems tight with very little play. I get no clunks going over
bumps
>while normal driving. Only going slow, with the wheels turned sharp.
>
>Monroe shocks are 15,000 miles old. The 85 Delta has 146,000.
>
>Any Ideas?
>
>drc
>
>
>

________________________________________________________
NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet.  Shouldn't you?
Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 01:32:36 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Wasps!

Bob Valentine wrote:
> 
> drop them INSTANTLY, and you get to watch them wiggle & die for about 5
> minutes.   Light'em up for more fun!

Wow, what a great list to be on, huh? list. Bob, you're a sick man! Just
kiddin. I thought it was pretty funny myself! *bzzzzzzz* *splash* *help
me help me!* *death!* :-)

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
*************************
http://drive.to/73cutlass
- -----------------------
'73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
'70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
'75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
*************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 00:26:37 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: H*LP - Engine noise

>> On which cylinder, the one I pulled the plug off of?  
>
>That's right.  Since there's no combustion going on in #2 you're reducing
>the load on both the piston pin and the rod bearing for that cylinder.  By  
>putting in heavier oil, if the rod bearing IS bad, it will take up some
>of gap in the bearing, thus reducing (or eliminating) the noise.   Wrist
>pins won't respond as well.

Sooo...let's assume you're right, and that is indeed the problem.  To make
sure I have it right: 

"I have either a bad wrist pin or a bad rod bearing in #2.  By pulling the
plug off (eliminating ignition) in that cylinder, I am causing either of
the bad parts to not be subjected to the stress of a power stroke, and thus
they stop making noise.  The standard up and down motion that happens
becuase the #2 rod/piston is attached to a crankshaft that is still going
around and around on 7 cylinders is not enough stress to cause the bad
part(s) to make noise."

I get that right?

Anyway to fix this (besides 50 weight oil)?...and you know I just changed
the oil today (before I sent the first message) with 10-W30...

>I put over 20k on a '85 307 that knocked even with straight 50 oil...
>One thing I'll say about Olds bottom ends, they never seem to come apart.
>They'll knock like hell but never seem to let loose.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88  RB                   (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 00:02:51 -0600
From: "Jeff Newman" <newsance@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: H*LP - Engine noise

One more thing... This probably isn't relevant, but..

On 307's, the air pump can be quite noisy. Mine emits a loud ticking noise,
especially when the hose to the air cleaner is disconnected. It is rpm
related, as it is driven off the accessory belt, and the sound would appear
to be by #2 cylinder (At least thats where the sound SEEMS to come from on
mine)  I thought originally that I needed a valvejob  at first, as it seemed
to come from inside the valvecover...
- -----Original Message-----
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, May 15, 1999 11:43 PM
Subject: Re: H*LP - Engine noise


>>> On which cylinder, the one I pulled the plug off of?
>>
>>That's right.  Since there's no combustion going on in #2 you're reducing
>>the load on both the piston pin and the rod bearing for that cylinder.  By
>>putting in heavier oil, if the rod bearing IS bad, it will take up some
>>of gap in the bearing, thus reducing (or eliminating) the noise.   Wrist
>>pins won't respond as well.
>
>Sooo...let's assume you're right, and that is indeed the problem.  To make
>sure I have it right:
>
>"I have either a bad wrist pin or a bad rod bearing in #2.  By pulling the
>plug off (eliminating ignition) in that cylinder, I am causing either of
>the bad parts to not be subjected to the stress of a power stroke, and thus
>they stop making noise.  The standard up and down motion that happens
>becuase the #2 rod/piston is attached to a crankshaft that is still going
>around and around on 7 cylinders is not enough stress to cause the bad
>part(s) to make noise."
>
>I get that right?
>
>Anyway to fix this (besides 50 weight oil)?...and you know I just changed
>the oil today (before I sent the first message) with 10-W30...
>
>>I put over 20k on a '85 307 that knocked even with straight 50 oil...
>>One thing I'll say about Olds bottom ends, they never seem to come apart.
>>They'll knock like hell but never seem to let loose.
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -
>Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
>MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
>2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
>Austin, TX 78722          Home: (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
>                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
>1984 Oldsmobile          Pager: (512) 483-8056
> Delta 88  RB                   (713) 318-5938
> 4-door
>"The Party Barge"
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -
>

________________________________________________________
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Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 02:01:44 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Intro, items available

CHRIS!!! I'm so damn excited that you re-subbed!!!! It's great to have
you back on this list again!!!!!! You don't know how upset I was that
you had un-subbed! Anyway, look out for an e-mail about the 75, it
should be ready to happen within the next 2 weeks or so.

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
*************************
http://drive.to/73cutlass
- -----------------------
'73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
'70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
'75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
*************************

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Date: 15 May 99 23:01:17 PDT
From: Randy Hermsen <76cutlass@netscape.net>
Subject: yahoo 72 is runnin !!

Hey list members (all 590 of you) got my 72 cutlass supreme runnin today she
just fired right up ,was a little noisey at first loud valve noise then
quieted right down.Just wanted to thank you all for helping ,the general
provided the points gap this a.m. oh and yes I did lose the upper rad hose to
engine upon engine hot .Changed the thermostate while I was there.I must admit
my face hurts again like the first day I bought her smilin so hard....Ive got
a runnin car !! from the paperwork Im guessin she didnt run for 4-7 yrs. she
was purrin today like new..
                she is a very beutiful car 
                    I cant wait to install dash and put the top down
                               maybe tomorra
                                  thanks all
                                      Randy 72 cutlass conv.
                                              76 cutlass  both supremes

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Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 05:17:34 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: What went wrong?

In a message dated 99-05-15 21:40:57 EDT, you write:

<< I wouldn't say the car misses.  Car idles poorly.  Doesn't stall, but
 acts like it wants to sometimes.  Sputters out of the tail pipe, but not
 with a pattern like a crossed wire.  Some of this may be carb related. 
 But it wasn't running like this with the old parts installed.  Knocking
 occurs under even the lightest throttle (like just driving through my
 developement).  I haven't changed the timing settings yet - afraid to do
 anything else.  It was getting late anyway. >>

Actually have experienced something similar recently.
But with the other goings on (and no timing light) Karl put off adjustment of 
final timing.
To begin at beginning.
Got the Engine Anlyser out and set dwell to 30 and idle RPm to 600 or so.
Ran a little rough after that, but no timing light, so Karl began a multi day 
procedure of trying to back off of ping.

Then the rotor broke.
And SOM ran ~awful~ but ran.
In fact, Karl would describe it in terms very much as Paul has done (above).
Except for the ping part.

So, home again, slap on spare rotor, and mitaswell put on the new breaker 
points.
And that was all, no final timing tweaks or idle RPM, as SOM had already 
dropped the patched muffer and thus no backpressure to speak of.

So, clean air filter and new muffler.
Damn muffler is so quiet Karl can scarcely hear the ping.
But it's there.
So, now, gotta go back and check everything at first light.
Whenever that is.

SOM

&KA

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Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 07:50:51 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: drain plug for 1961 olds

Not on the list, respond to lkrystal@inil.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	lkrystal@inil.com (lkrystal)
Subject: drain plug for 1961 olds

I have a 1961 Olds Dynamic 88. I went to change the oil and (this may
sound like I'me
nuts) but I don't know what kind of drain plug it has. It looks like a
splined female bolt of
some kind and used an o-ring for sealing. I've worked on cars all my
life as a "backyard
mechanic" but have never seen a plug like this.
If anyone knows what type of wrench is required to remove this plug ,
please e-mail
me at lkrystal@inil.com

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Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 20:22:29 +0000
From: Edward J Hufnagel <ejhufnagel1@juno.com>
Subject: Re: In Need of a Radiator for my '66

On Sun, 16 May 1999 03:54:17 GMT "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
writes:
>Hi all,
>I am shopping around for a new OEM radiator for my '66 Delta 88, 425V8 
>w/  A/C.
.So far I priced:
>1)  $290  Radiator shop in Austin.
>2)  $250  over the net.
>3)  $220  Modine 4 row  Parts America...local.
>4)  $180  ?      3 row  AutoZone...local.
>
>Does anyone know the parts # of a descent OEM manf. or a comparible 
>aftermarket?
>
>TIA,
>
>Chris Rivier

	Rad in my Delta is in pretty good shape.  $110 complete.

	Regards,
	                Ed

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1959
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