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cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1962


oldsmobile-digest        Monday, May 17 1999        Volume 01 : Number 1962



Re: minor carb problems
Re: car names./ Cinderella is dead!
Oil : Synthetic is the Best!
Oil pressure at idle...
Re: X-man Bolt Snapped!
Re: High RPM stall question
Re: Oil pressure at idle...
Re: X-man Bolt Snapped! :(
Re: Just Wondering, right angle drills
Re: car names./ Cinderella is dead!
Re: Intro, items available
RE: Welcome Back CBW!!!
Re: Intro, items available
Re: Great Midwestern Caravan of 1999.
Re: Q-jet experience/H*lp? LONG
rattling noise 442
Re: rattling noise 442
headlight problem
Re: X-man Bolt Snapped! :(
Re: Intro, items available
BROKEN X-MANIFOLD BOLT
Re: headlight problem
Re: headlight problem
Re: X-man Bolt Snapped! :(
Re: headlight problem
15" OLDS RALLY WHEELS
Re: 15" OLDS RALLY WHEELS
Re: Taillight problem
455 carb choice
RE: What went wrong?
Re: 455 carb choice
An Olds Story. (Was:Anyone not own a Jump N Carry?)
Re: 455 carb choice
Re: Pulling a PS Pulley ??
Re: Wasps!
Re: 455 carb choice
Re: Pulling a PS Pulley ??
Re: Oil pressure at idle...
Re: Intro, items available
Re: headlight problem
1987 442
Re: Pulling a PS Pulley ??
Re: 455 carb choice
Re: 455 carb choice
Re: Taillight problem
Plastic interior panel cleaning
Re: Q-jet experience/H*lp? LONG
(no subject)
Re: X-man Bolt Snapped! :(
Re: 455 carb choice
Re: 455 carb choice
Re: 455 carb choice
Re: Q-jet experience/H*lp? LONG
Re: 455 carb choice
Re: 455 carb choice
Re: Taillight problem
Re: 455 carb choice
Gremlin Mutations...
DIESEL TO GAS
Misc. and What went wrong?
Re: Q-jet experience/H*lp? LONG
Re: Norwalk track
Re: Norwalk track
Re: DIESEL TO GAS
Re: Norwalk track

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 01:53:39 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: minor carb problems

In a message dated 5/16/99 8:13:05 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
raymond338@hotmail.com writes:

<< (how would i know 
 this?).  or maybe the parts store just can't get me one in which case i need 
 to find someplace that can sell me one.  any suggestions on which one of 
 these leads i should follow up on first?
 sorry for the length and triviality,
 ray >>

	Post the stamped number (starts in either 17XXXXXX or 7XXXXXX) that 
is on the carb to the list here, or me privately. If you pull off the air 
cleaner, and stand on the drivers side, the numbers are stamped vertically on 
the rear portion of the drivers side of the carb. That is if the carb isn't 
really dirty there. If it is, wipe it off. Again, it IS on the drivers side 
of the carb.   Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 01:31:47 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: car names./ Cinderella is dead!

Is it a 455 or a 350? How many miles on the motor? How high of an RPM did
you go to?
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Randy Geisel <Rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: car names./ Cinderella is dead!
> Date: Sunday, May 16, 1999 10:23 PM
> 
> My 72 Cutlass is named Cinderella! Why you ask..........I fix her up,
take
> to the ball (drag strip) and the majority of the time she comes home a
> pumpkin.
> 
> I did exploratory heart surgery on her today. Not only did I break her
> crank, but I broke her camshaft, bent a few pushrods and either bent or
> broke almost every valve. I knew she needed a new heart as soon as I
lifted
> the intake. I can see straight through the #2 cylinder lifter bore, thru
the
> hole in the oil pan and see the grass growing under her! Still looking
for
> the #2 piston and rod. And where the heck is the lifter, pushrod, valve
> bottom, and about 4" of the cam? I found some of the pieces in the
exhaust
> ports of the head and even in the intake after I pulled the carb. Better
go
> check the roadside again ;-)
> 
> I've never seen that much damage before, without putting a hole in the
> block. She's trashed. Strangest thing about it is that the front two
> counterweights on the crank are seezed, but I can spin what's left of the
> piece in between. That and I've never seen 4 inches of a camshaft just
> disappear.
> 
> I gotta pull the motor this week and see what it looks like with the oil
pan
> off. Think I'll hang onto this block as a conversation piece! That's the
> last time I run out for smokes in an Olds ;-)  NOT!
> 
> Randy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 01:42:52 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!

We did an experiment on my buddies 455 Olds. We poured in Castrol GTX
(non-synthetic) 20W-50 motor oil in. We drove the car for 12 miles and then
started to beat on the motor. We did about 3 launches from a dead stop and
on the 3rd launch the oil pressure gauge (Autometer electronic) dropped
from 50 pounds to around 44 pounds at 5000RPM. Then we came to a stop and
at idle it went from a normal reading of 25 pounds to around 18 pounds.

We then poured the oil out and put in 15W-50 Mobil 1 synthetic oil. We
drove around for 12 miles and did 3 launches. The gauge never dropped below
50 pounds. At idle it stayed at 25 pounds. 
This was proof positive that synthetic oil does not break down as
conventional oil does. The viscosity of the oil broke down because of the
heat and friciton. The Mobil 1 never broke down. It even is thinner on
start-up which is better for the motor.

I will run Mobil 1 synthetic on my 455 also. I am running Castrol GTX
because the motor is new and the rings have to seat. Mondello recommends
not using synthetic oil on new motors because the rings will not seat.
After about 800 miles I will switch to synthetic.



Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 01:46:05 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Oil pressure at idle...

On a 455 Olds what is the "factory" oil pressure at idle with the motor at
operating temperatures? 

While driving the gauge reads 60 pounds at hot. At idle it will be around
20 pounds at idle. What do other people run with their 455s?

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 03:03:42 -0400
From: Bob Haag <Bob.Haag@digital.com>
Subject: Re: X-man Bolt Snapped!

I'd like to relate my experience with snapped manifold bolts on my '75 98
Regency.  All of the hardware, shoulder bolts, washers, springs on the
exhaust pipe connection to the mainfold had long since disappered when my
dad bought this car from our neighbor.  Every year in the spring we would
get an exhaust leak at that connection.  Of course, every year I would crawl
under the car and tighten up the three bolts holding the pipe to the
manifold.  This went on for a few years until one spring day * SNAP * OH
(insert explitive here)!  My dad and uncle, being of the mechanical mind and
ability, dutifully drilled out the snapped bolt.  I deceided on installing
stainless steel bolts.  After they were installed the exhaust system never
again leaked at that point.  I drove the car for another 3 or 4 years and
never once had a problem with loose bolts.  

Pardon the long windedness of this post.  Summary, stainless steel bolts
work!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 01:16:45 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: High RPM stall question

> I hope someone might be able to help me with a problem I started to have
> with my 71 442. It runs fine under normal driving conditions and when i
> get on it. The trouble is when it hits higher RPM, like right before
> shifting gears it bog's down right after the shift for a moment and then
> kicks back in.

Had (Have) the same problem.  It appears to happen to me when the motor
warms up.  Tried different carburetors and everything but no major
difference.  It seems to be a problem with fuel boil or something.  What I
was told by many is that the stock fuel pump (especially after some use)
just can't keep up the fuel flow to the thirsty 455.  The way I see it is
that when the motor gets hot, the manifold and carburetor get hot and the
fuel boils before and the car runs out of it (or not enough of it anyway) at
higher demand driving, such as WOT and/or higher RPMs.  The last time I
pulled the intake manifold off, I used composite gaskets and never cut out
the exhaust crossover holes, plus I also installed a new radiator (same
size, only new) and a thick carburetor gasket to help keep it cooler.  The
intake seems to run cooler and the problem went away, for now.  When those
gaskets burn through, I am sure I will be at it again.  The solution, in my
opinion, is to get a carburetor heat shield (supposed to work really well),
and a aftermarket, higher flow fuel pump.  That should solve the problem.
When I get some more money, I will do this.  For now, the new rad and intake
gaskets seem to be helping.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 01:20:29 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Oil pressure at idle...

> While driving the gauge reads 60 pounds at hot. At idle it will be around
> 20 pounds at idle. What do other people run with their 455s?


Almost exactly.  I get about just a tad over 60 pounds driving hot and about
25-30 @600 RPM in drive at a stop light also hot.  Cold I get over 60
driving and around 40-45 at 700 RPM or so.  This is all with 20-W50 oil.
With 10W30, I used to get the same reading, only about 5-8 psi less when
warm.  I think that for stock oiling system, I have good oil pressure for an
Olds.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 08:54:09 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: X-man Bolt Snapped! :(

Greg,

Is it possible to use a right-angle drill adapter to get sufficient access?

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 08:58:25 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Just Wondering, right angle drills

Now you know, when Joe P. reads all the weekend mail on Monday,
he's gonna start a subscription drive.  Where's he gonna find the
people to bump those numbers up to 403/400?  ROFL

Mike Bloomer
___________

8:54 AM EDT Monday:    ;-)

Actually, if you add 260 and 330, you get 590, which is about the right
displacement...
(The Olds DRCE block is designed to go out to 650 cu in anyway, so 590 would be
easy).

As for the right angle drill, I got mine years ago at a Home Depot-type store.
It's a bevel gear arrangement which has a 2:1 ratio.  Use it one way and you 
get
2:1, flip it around and you get 1:2.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 09:08:34 -0400
From: "Randy Geisel" <Rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: car names./ Cinderella is dead!

> Is it a 455 or a 350? How many miles on the motor? How high of an >RPM did
you go to?

Hey Peter,

It was a 68 350 shortblock with '72 7a heads, Perf. PRM intake and 280H cam.
3.73 gears and 3000 stall converter. About 90,000 miles on the bottom end.
Not sure of the rpm's, wasn't looking at the tach. I was going about 40 mph
on a bumpy back country road, floored it and when she kicked into passing
gear.........KABOOM.

I heard this noise like a muffler dragging so I backed off  and then a cloud
of smoke came out from under the hood.

The shortblock musta had problems when I installed it (100 miles ago)
Oh well.......FWIW, there's one less "N" crank in the world. They're getting
rarer. LOL

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 09:15:48 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Intro, items available

Chris,

A hearty welcome back.

==========

I suppose I qualify as a new subscriber, having been off for 2-3 years now.
______

Geeze, has it been that long?  It doesn't seem that I've even been subscribed
for 3 years.  Time flies...

==========

I am cynical and will not hesitate to call on the carpet anyone who claims
their 307 makes 478 HP [it HAS happened here...].
______

So you're saying that I have to relenquish the title of List Smart @$$?  I've
been trying to fill in while you were gone...  ;-)

==========

...and the infamous never-verified-to-exist.... SOLID MAIN WEB 403!
Yep, my $50 reward STILL stands for PROOF that these SMW 403's exist. Not
rumor, not stories, not "for sure, but I don't have it apart right now...".
______

Yep.  Had one or two of those while you were gone.  You also missed the
notorious ebay "W-31" Rallye 350 and the "W-30" Vista Cruiser (sort of the like
how all 327 Chebby motors are Corvette Fuelie motors, despite the fact that 
it's
currently residing in a grubby 66 pickup...).  We _did_ learn, however, that
_all_ Rallyes, including F-85-based cars, got Cutlass emblems on the fenders
(per the 1970 factory assembly manual).

Good to have you back.  Hopefully you'll be staying.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 08:21:00 -0500
From: "Hitson, Roger" <HITSOR@mail.dmh.state.mo.us>
Subject: RE: Welcome Back CBW!!!

Does this mean the dissertation is finished?

Whether or not, I welcome  your encyclopedic knowledge & caustic tongue.

roger

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 09:25:12 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Intro, items available

In a message dated 05/16/1999 1:57:15 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
creme1ma@cmich.edu writes:

<< CHRIS!!! I'm so damn excited that you re-subbed!!!! It's great to have
 you back on this list again!!!!!! You don't know how upset I was that
 you had un-subbed!  >>

I was going to tell you to calm down Matt, lol, but after reading several 
other notes about Chris I guess he's the real deal.  I hope he has some of 
the little things I need for my 69 442.  We'll see.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 09:34:34 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Great Midwestern Caravan of 1999.

In a message dated 05/16/1999 2:47:35 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
lbiggs@intertek.net writes:

<< Not that I patronize such ignoble venues, but for a friend or guest I would
 suffer though the ordeal. After all, what are buddies for?
  >>
I don't think it would be as bad as the suffering you've gone through with 
your back.  LOL   Might make you forget about that pain.  Maybe one of the 
performers could give you a back rub.  LOL

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 09:43:12 EDT
From: Knightvd@aol.com
Subject: Re: Q-jet experience/H*lp? LONG

In a message dated 5/17/99 12:48:08 AM Central Daylight Time, 
DYeager535@aol.com writes:

<< Anyone got any ideas? Sure would help, 
 private or public ridiucule accepted if I'm missing something obvious : ) 
 Thanks for bearing with this whole letter,   Dorian
  >>
Dorian,

You may have too much vacuum advance.  I have experienced the same symptom 
after advancing my initial advance setting and playing with the centrifugal 
advance.  Disconnect your vacuum advance and see if the "surge" at light 
throttle goes away.  If it does you will need to retard your timing or buy 
one of those kits that I've seen in Summit to make the vacuum advance limit 
adjustable.

Vince Knight 
71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 09:34:49 +0200
From: "S.W. Kerkhoven" <Kerkhoven@wt.tno.nl>
Subject: rattling noise 442

I have a 1969 0ldsmobile 442 with the following problem. When i drive the car 
there comes a rattling noise from underneath the car. When i listen under the 
car the noise is located in the area where the transmission is attached to the 
motor. The noise can be discribed as a loose bodypate. I think the noise comes 
from the flywheelcover/flexplate which is cracked or something like that.

Does anybody ever had the same problem or is it a known problem with older 
cutlass/442 cars?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 08:01:30 -0600
From: "ed" <ed@techniflite.com>
Subject: Re: rattling noise 442

Is your car a manual or auto trans?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: S.W. Kerkhoven <Kerkhoven@wt.tno.nl>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 17, 1999 1:34 AM
Subject: rattling noise 442


> I have a 1969 0ldsmobile 442 with the following problem. When i drive the
car there comes a rattling noise from underneath the car. When i listen
under the car the noise is located in the area where the transmission is
attached to the motor. The noise can be discribed as a loose bodypate. I
think the noise comes from the flywheelcover/flexplate which is cracked or
something like that.
>
> Does anybody ever had the same problem or is it a known problem with older
cutlass/442 cars?
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 10:07:10 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: headlight problem

When I put on my headlights, the right headlight doesn't work. When I hit the 
dimmer switch, all four work. Is the problem the dimmer switch?
Tia
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 11:13:22 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: X-man Bolt Snapped! :(

On Mon, 17 May 1999 Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:
> Is it possible to use a right-angle drill adapter to get sufficient access?

Appears to have 3"-4" of clearance there, so I suppose so... but I've had
it. This is going to the shop as soon as I gather up enough $$$ and this
thing is going to be fixed once and for all and (hopefully) for good.
Expensive I know but I just can't take it chuggin' all the time any more.
Damn thing sounds just awful.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 10:15:00 -0400
From: rmoriarty@blairinc.com
Subject: Re: Intro, items available

Hi Chris
Good to hear from ya. Glad to have you back on the list. When you get around to
it, I would appreciate a copy of your list.

TIA
Ray



So, if no objections, I will fwd to the list the never before available items,
a few radios, AM/FM/CB... Flipper door 8-track, etc. I will also provide a list
of parts cars if there's interest, and will send a list of Rocket Science items
via email to those who request.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 10:13:20 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: BROKEN X-MANIFOLD BOLT

List,

            My thoughts on the broken X-manifold
to-head bolt .....

1. The intake manifold most likely has an oil leak
2. The oil can use a change and filter
3. The antifreeze is most likely old
4. The weather is warm
5. Bowling ended last week and softball has yet to start
6. There is most likely carbon on the piston tops

conclusion .............What the heck - go for it

Just my thoughts
The General

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 10:18:16 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Re: headlight problem

The dimmer switch  acts like an A-B switch for
a printer or other device. It supplies voltage to
either the single filament of the low beams or
both filaments plus the high beams. You most likely
have a bad lens or bulb socket.

The General

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 07:20:48 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: headlight problem

>When I put on my headlights, the right headlight doesn't work.
>When I hit the dimmer switch, all four work. Is the problem
>the dimmer switch?

No, the problem is the headlight. Your low and high beams burn different 
filaments, and the low-beam filament in that headlight is burned out; that's 
all.

Replace both the outboard headlamps at the same time; the surviving one is 
going to burn out Real Soon Now anyway.

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 10:24:05 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: X-man Bolt Snapped! :(

...and this thing is going to be fixed once and for all and (hopefully) for
good....
_________

So you _are_ going to install a big block...  ;-)

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 10:22:42 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: headlight problem

When I put on my headlights, the right headlight doesn't work. When I hit the
dimmer switch, all four work. Is the problem the dimmer switch?
_______

The most likely problem is a burned out low-beam filament in the RH bulb.  The
low beams actually have two filaments, one for use on the low beam setting and
one on high beam (that's why the low beam bulbs have three terminals and the
high beam bulbs only have two).  If you don't want to spring for a new bulb
without proof, then swap the RH and LH bulbs to test.

Failing that, check the socket for corrosion and the wires for a break.  The
dimmer controls both sides at once, so you would only suspect the dimmer switch
if both sides failed to work.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 07:30:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: EDMUND WILLIAMS <efw67@yahoo.com>
Subject: 15" OLDS RALLY WHEELS

I'm looking for some nice factory Olds rally wheels for my 70 Delta88.
It can be either all chrome or Gold and chrome like the 85-87 442s.
Anyone please help. Ed from New York.

_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 10:28:51 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 15" OLDS RALLY WHEELS

I'm looking for some nice factory Olds rally wheels for my 70 Delta88.
It can be either all chrome or Gold and chrome like the 85-87 442s.
Anyone please help. Ed from New York.
_______

The SSII/SSIII rims were only made with a 5 x 4 3/4" bolt pattern.
Unfortunately, I think your 70 Delta has a 5 x 5" bolt pattern.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 07:31:37 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Taillight problem

>The taillights on my H/O are giving me problems. They work
>fine when the parking lights are on but when the brakes are
>hit the top bulb on the drivers side goes out and the bottom
>bulb on the passenger side also goes out.

You have a bad ground in the sockets of the two bulbs that go out when the 
brakes are applied.

Taillight current in those sockets is using the brake light circuit as a 
ground path, so that unless you step on the brake (or signal a turn on that 
side), the taillights will still function. But when you step on the brake, 
the brake light circuit goes hot. At this moment, the problem taillights are 
now getting +12V on both wires, current can't flow either way, and the bulbs 
go out.

I think you'll find the ground connection has broken in the socket, between 
the metal collar around the bulb and where the black wire emerges from the 
back. I'd swap in the correct replacement socket(s) instead of messing 
around with the old one. Solder the wires instead of just using crimp 
connectors, if you can.

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 10:38:29 -0400
From: "John H. Edmonds III" <edmonds@UU.NET>
Subject: 455 carb choice

List,

    I finally have acumulated just about everything I need to have my
455 built and placed in front of a TH400 in my 67 CS convertible, but
the last piece is now giving me a headache. I need to pick a carb to go
on the motor, and I need some help in picking. The 455 is going to be
basically stock, with only a few slight modifications. It shall be .030
over and utilize the stock 4 barrel intake and WZ exhaust manifolds. I
was thinking about using the Quad on my 330 (number 7044618), but the
amount of CFM (which I do not know for this carb) concerned me. I also
have a rebuilt spare Quadrajet (number 7032720), but this one is an
unknown quantity as well. Will the carb on my 330 have enough flow to
keep the 455 happy, or will I be choking it with insufficient air? Could
either of my carbs be modified to increase the flow, or should I go with
something else? Thanks in advance...

- --
=============================================================================

John H. Edmonds III
Backbone Engineer, Network Design and Activation
UUNET WorldCom
(703) 289-8067

Once you've heard the truth, everything else is just cheap whiskey...
=============================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 09:49:00 -0500
From: "Hitson, Roger" <HITSOR@mail.dmh.state.mo.us>
Subject: RE: What went wrong?

Paul,

By all means check the timing. Performance could just be from change in
dwell.

roger
 ----------
From: Paul Hartlieb
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: What went wrong?
Date: Saturday, May 15, 1999 8:39PM

I was behind a car with a bumper sticker on it the other day.  It said
something to the effect of - "Federal Government Slogan - If it ain't
broke, fix it until it is."

<snipped>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 10:59:01 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 455 carb choice

Virtually all Q-jets are rated at 750 cfm, including those on virtually all 
Olds
455s.  There _is_ an 800 cfm version, primarily used on Pontiacs, but this is
unnecessary for a nearly stock 455.  Note that one of the great things about 
the
Q-jet is the air valve above the secondary barrels.  This device controls
airflow based on the engine's demand, with the result that this one carb design
can be made to work on engine sizes from small sixes (was OEM on the hipo
versions of the Poncho OHC six in the 60s) to 500 cu in Caddy V-8s.

Clearly, the carb off your 330 will need to be rejetted.  This is usually a
trial and error process, but for starters, set the carb up with the same size
jets and metering rods as were used in a Q-jet from a 1970-ish 455.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 08:07:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: An Olds Story. (Was:Anyone not own a Jump N Carry?)

Okay, I know what a Jump N Carry is now. I remember
seeing one in use at the local chevy dealer here. My
Citation had crapped out on me and I needed a car
fast. Found 2 very nice cars. One was the 86 Honda
Accord that I have now and the other was a 1970 (I
think....can't remember exact year)Olds Toro.
Beautiful car.....dark blue.....original
everything....just needed front boots, carb work, new
thermostat, and probably new springs all around, and a
few minor interior bits and it would be perfect.
Anyways, I was looking at this car in the middle of
the winter. (We're talking 20 below with a 70 below
windchill. The salesperson grabbed the Jump N Carry
because he figured the 455 would not crank in this
weather since it hadn't been ran in 2 weeks. We hopped
in the boat and second turn it popped right off.
Purred like an oversized kitten. :-) I was truelly
impressed. If I had the money for gas, that Toro would
of been my daily driver. (Hence why I got the Honda)
But, I still kick myself for not buying it. The car
was well worth the 3,000. The tranny was smooth and
very responsive. The engine didn't smoke or anything.
It shouldn't, the car only had 68,000 miles. 

The Jump N Carry did get used that night though! While
the Toro was warming up, he was going to go start a
early 90's Lumina. (It had been started that day, but
he wanted to warm it up because he had someone
interested in it.) Deader then a doornail! It wouldn't
even turn over! Hmmmmm......I think I'll stick with my
older vehicles. :-)  
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 11:13:42 EDT
From: Mrmagic442@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 carb choice

In a message dated 5/17/99 8:07:58 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM writes:

<< 
 Virtually all Q-jets are rated at 750 cfm, including those on virtually all 
Olds
 455s.  There _is_ an 800 cfm version, primarily used on Pontiacs, but this is
 unnecessary for a nearly stock 455.  Note that one of the great things about 
the
 Q-jet is the air valve above the secondary barrels.  This device controls
 airflow based on the engine's demand, with the result that this one carb 
design
 can be made to work on engine sizes from small sixes (was OEM on the hipo
 versions of the Poncho OHC six in the 60s) to 500 cu in Caddy V-8s.
 
 Clearly, the carb off your 330 will need to be rejetted.  This is usually a
 trial and error process, but for starters, set the carb up with the same size
 jets and metering rods as were used in a Q-jet from a 1970-ish 455.
  >>

      I beg to differ on this one. I have removed tons of Q-jets from late 
model cars that were 800 cfm. The bigger carb was more common in the later 
models than the earlier ones. My CCC carb of an 85 Olds 307 is 800 cfm. All I 
did was drill the vacuum hole to send the signal to the power piston and get 
a proper float bowl and air horn and it not makes my 350 run great without a 
computer. I am now waiting for my 403 short block to arrive and I will make 
this same carb work fine on it also. Q-jets are the best carb around if you 
understand them. But you must know them to make them work as you wish.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 11:17:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Re: Pulling a PS Pulley ??

is there an easy way to pull off a power steering pulley- got to stop
a leak -- 

Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio 
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets  
  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 08:25:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Wasps!

> > drop them INSTANTLY, and you get to watch them
> wiggle & die for about 5
> > minutes.   Light'em up for more fun!
=============================

Or you could be really mean and do what my mom's uncle
use to do. Go out there at night with a fancy looking
paper bag. Get the nest in the bag and seal tightly.
Set the bag on an enemy's doorstep and watch the
results. (Make sure to shake the bag before ringing
the bell though!) I've got some vindictive people in
my family.......
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 11:23:43 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 455 carb choice

 I beg to differ on this one. I have removed tons of Q-jets from late
model cars that were 800 cfm. The bigger carb was more common in the later
models than the earlier ones. My CCC carb of an 85 Olds 307 is 800 cfm...
_______

My comments were definitely geared towards the pre-75ish Q-jets, but you'll
excuse my skepticism.  I have to wonder about the logic of using 750 cfm units
on 300-455 cu in motors, then, in the midst of the downsizing of motors and 
cars
(and with the then-new pressures of CAFE), GM went to _800 cfm_ carbs on 307
motors?  I'll be honest and say that I've never even worked on a 307, so I'll
defer to others' expertise, but that just doesn't make sense (of course, GM did
and does many things that don't make sense...)

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 11:29:14 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Pulling a PS Pulley ??

is there an easy way to pull off a power steering pulley- got to stop
a leak --
________

You mean without buying a puller?

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 08:31:52 PDT
From: "Richard Nogin" <wickett66@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Oil pressure at idle...

Mines not a 455 but a 403.  Is runs the same as you described.



>On a 455 Olds what is the "factory" oil pressure at idle with the motor at
>operating temperatures?
>
>While driving the gauge reads 60 pounds at hot. At idle it will be around
>20 pounds at idle. What do other people run with their 455s?
>
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 11:34:18 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Intro, items available

In a message dated 05/17/1999 9:18:23 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM writes:

<< Yep.  Had one or two of those while you were gone.  You also missed the
 notorious ebay "W-31" Rallye 350 and the "W-30" Vista Cruiser  >>

Hey Joe don't forget about that 1970 W-30 or 31 Grand National Pace Car. lol

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 11:59:43 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: headlight problem

In a message dated 05/17/1999 10:08:35 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
JonKrisInc@aol.com writes:

<< When I put on my headlights, the right headlight doesn't work. When I hit 
the 
 dimmer switch, all four work. Is the problem the dimmer switch?
 T >>
The low beam part of the right headlight is burnt out.  Try a new bulb first.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 12:03:15 -0400
From: Ryan Sieler <rsieler@adrian.edu>
Subject: 1987 442

I have a 1987 Olds 442 and it doesn't want to stay running under 1800 RPM.  
It's not a distributor cap/rotor or coil problem.  I think that we have 
narrowed it down to the Fuel Mixture Solenoid. Can anyone tell me what this 
part does and how it comes off?  I have a second car that I can use parts from 
but I don't know how it comes apart.  Any diagrams would be great too.  
Thanks, you can e-mail me directly if you wish at rsieler@adrian.edu and look 
at my web page at http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/1087/.
  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 12:07:22 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Pulling a PS Pulley ??

In a message dated 05/17/1999 11:24:22 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
avar@infinet.com writes:

<< is there an easy way to pull off a power steering pulley >>

See if your local parts store rents the correct puller.  Without one you 
would have to rig something up but that may damage the pump.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 12:11:54 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 carb choice

In a message dated 5/17/99 8:15:50 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
Mrmagic442@aol.com writes:

<<  I beg to differ on this one. I have removed tons of Q-jets from late 
 model cars that were 800 cfm. The bigger carb was more common in the later 
 models than the earlier ones. My CCC carb of an 85 Olds 307 is 800 cfm.  >>

	The carb off of my 86 307 is not an 800CFM unit. How did you come to 
the conclusion that your late models are? I have two early 70's carbs (Both 
Buick) one for a higher HP application, (400CI) and one for a 455 and they 
are both 750 CFM units. The GM service manual for some of the 80's Monte 
Carlo SS's claimed that they are 800CFM, but if you measure the primary 
venturi, I would be surprised if they really were..so far no one has come 
forth with an 800CFM carb in the 80's that I have seen. (even from the SS, 
that the service manual said has them) 
										
						Dorian 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 12:13:48 EDT
From: Mrmagic442@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 carb choice

In a message dated 5/17/99 8:25:30 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM writes:

<< and with the then-new pressures of CAFE), GM went to _800 cfm_ carbs on 307
 motors?  I'll be honest and say that I've never even worked on a 307, so I'll
 defer to others' expertise, but that just doesn't make sense (of course, GM 
did
 and does many things that don't make sense...)
  >>

     I have taken 800 cfm Q-jets off late 70's 305 Chevy's. I can't explain 
it either. But I know more than enough about these carbs to spot the 750's 
from the 800's.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 09:19:09 -0700
From: BOYD DONALD R <drboyd@srpnet.com>
Subject: Re: Taillight problem

   The taillights on my H/O are giving me problems. They work fine when
the parking lights are on but when the brakes are hit the top bulb on
the drivers side goes out and the bottom bulb on the passenger side also
goes out. The other two bulbs act normally, getting brighter. I`ve
checked all the bulbs and traced the wiring and everything looks OK.
   Any ideas on where to start looking would be appreciated, thanks. 

Corey Putnam
75 H/O W-30(my way)
87 Regal w/Olds 455

>>>>>>>>>Well, I'd start looking at grounding issues on those two lamp
sockets.  They could be grounding back through the brake light circuit,
until you hit the brakes.  Then the formerly gounded wire is now hot, and
doesn't complete the circuit.  You might not notice, because the brake light
filament is much brighter, and requires more current to light.


Check the continuity of the outer connection on the socket to a good chassis
ground.  Maybe connect one trouble light wire to 12v+ and use the other lead
to see if your ground is working.

CAUTION:  This probably isn't it.  Work safely.  Your mother warned you
about this.

By the way, how's that new 455 working in the '75?  I'll bet it's faster
than you thought it would be, huh?

Don Boyd
76 Cutlass factory 455, Hurst T-Tops

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 12:21:42 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Plastic interior panel cleaning

Hey all.
I'm getting prepared to start cleaning and prepping my plastic side and
trim panels for a color change. Right now they are faded green and filthy.
I'm changing the interior to black. What is a good product for cleaning and
prepping these things? Can they just be painted or is there a special dye I
should get for coloring them? TIA

BTW, Anyone planning on attending the 3rd Annual Big M Bash in Churchville,
MD on the 28-30?

Omega Man
'74 Omega S 455/auto
'74 Omega 455/4sp (someday)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 12:26:39 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Q-jet experience/H*lp? LONG

In a message dated 5/17/99 6:45:10 AM Pacific Daylight Time, Knightvd@aol.com 
writes:

<< Dorian,
 
 You may have too much vacuum advance.  I have experienced the same symptom 
 after advancing my initial advance setting and playing with the centrifugal 
 advance.  Disconnect your vacuum advance and see if the "surge" at light 
 throttle goes away.  If it does you will need to retard your timing or buy 
 one of those kits that I've seen in Summit to make the vacuum advance limit 
 adjustable.
 
 Vince Knight 
 71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible >>

	Vince, thanks for the idea. A very easy thing to check. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 12:30:40 EDT
From: Tbone6944@aol.com
Subject: (no subject)

Please remove me from your mailing list for now. Thanx,TBone6944@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 11:42:20 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: X-man Bolt Snapped! :(

As Peter said, don't have much confidence in easy outs. especially if the
bolt is really frozen tight. Break one of those off in there (I have
before) and a diamond drill won't touch it. In deep doo doo then. Go with
the small to larger bits and if your careful you should prevail.
Lou

Peter wrote;
>   I can't see it, but if you have (I'm so smug) a right angle drill and a
> real sharp bit and a steady hand, you can center punch it and center
drill
> it.  You can use ever increasing in size drill bits until you turn the
bolt
> into a shell of its' former self.  Or, drill it just enough to get in a
> reasonable easy out.  I don't have a lot of confidence in the latter,
> though.  If you turned the head of the bolt with enough torque to break
it,
> I'm gonna go ahead and guess the bolt is feeling mighty comfy where it is
> and is reluctant to come out and play.  You're prolly gonna have to drill
> it.  Heck fire.  If I can do it, anyone can.  Like you, I don't have a
sense
> of thread lube having been used in the assembly process.  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 12:44:09 EDT
From: Mrmagic442@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 carb choice

In a message dated 5/17/99 9:17:03 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
DYeager535@aol.com writes:

<< 	The carb off of my 86 307 is not an 800CFM unit. How did you come 
to 
 the conclusion that your late models are? I have two early 70's carbs (Both 
 Buick) one for a higher HP application, (400CI) and one for a 455 and they 
 are both 750 CFM units. The GM service manual for some of the 80's Monte 
 Carlo SS's claimed that they are 800CFM, but if you measure the primary 
 venturi, I would be surprised if they really were..so far no one has come 
 forth with an 800CFM carb in the 80's that I have seen. (even from the SS, 
 that the service manual said has them) 
 										
 						Dorian 
  >>

     It's the secondary throttle bores that are bigger not the primaries. And 
the plates are not bigger it's the bore of the float bowl.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 11:56:23 -0500
From: tonwald@eta.k12.mn.us (Tony Waldner)
Subject: Re: 455 carb choice

>Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM writes:
>
><<
> Virtually all Q-jets are rated at 750 cfm, including those on virtually all
>Olds

>      I beg to differ on this one. I have removed tons of Q-jets from late
>model cars that were 800 cfm. The bigger carb was more common in the later


Sorry but Joe is correct (as usual! :))   The only 800 cfm Q-jet ever
produced was put on 455 Buicks from '71 to '76 period. The increase in 50
cfm comes from a larger primary venturi. The secondary side flows the same
as 750 cfm units.

Tony

70 442 W-30
70 442 W-30 convert
70 Toro GT W-34
65 Jetstar 88 w/4-speed
84 Hurst/Olds
85 Cutlass Salon 455 Drag Racer

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 13:03:08 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: 455 carb choice

Mrmagic442@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 5/17/99 9:17:03 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
> DYeager535@aol.com writes:
>
> <<      The carb off of my 86 307 is not an 800CFM unit. How did you come to
>  the conclusion that your late models are? I have two early 70's carbs (Both
>  Buick) one for a higher HP application, (400CI) and one for a 455 and they
>  are both 750 CFM units. The GM service manual for some of the 80's Monte
>  Carlo SS's claimed that they are 800CFM, but if you measure the primary
>  venturi, I would be surprised if they really were..so far no one has come
>  forth with an 800CFM carb in the 80's that I have seen. (even from the SS,
>  that the service manual said has them)
>
>                                                 Dorian
>   >>
>
>      It's the secondary throttle bores that are bigger not the primaries. And
> the plates are not bigger it's the bore of the float bowl.

Comment on above:
     According to Doug Roe's book on Q-jets, it's the primray venturies that 
are
bigger on the 800 cfm models, 1 7/32" dia vs. 1 3/32" dia for the 750 cfm.

Dude

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 13:13:38 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Q-jet experience/H*lp? LONG

Dorian wrote:

>  Adjusted air valve spring to open as quickly as possible (but still close
> fully)
>

Dorian,
  Careful about opening the secondary air valve too soon by backing off on the
spring.  That may be the cause of your problem at 3500 rpm, secondaries may be
opening too soon.  Try setting the spring back at factory specs.
  Also, it looks like you went to a bigger cam.  If your manifold vacuum at 
idle
dropped significantly,  the spring on the power piston may be pushing up your
primary metering rods at idle and giving you an overly rich mixutre.  Does
exhaust smell like it's rich?

Dude

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 13:04:48 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 455 carb choice

  It's the secondary throttle bores that are bigger not the primaries. And
the plates are not bigger it's the bore of the float bowl....
_______

OK, two problems with this.  First, the original post claimed that he had
replaced the float bowl on his "800 cfm" Q-jet.  It would seem to me that
putting an early float bowl on would turn it into a 750...  Second, There is no
"bore" in the secondary side of the float bowl, just a huge, not even round
opening.  Per the Doug Roe book, the (pre-74, anyway) 800 cfm Q-jets have a
different _primary_ bore in the float bowl with a larger diameter venturi.

Let's try this a different way.  The secondary side of the Q-jet is restricted
by the throttle plates, not the opening in the float bowl (assuming the air
valve is fully open), so if you're saying the throttle plates on the "800 cfm"
carbs are the same size, then that's _not_ where the airflow increase is coming
from.  The primary side, on the other hand, is definitely restricted by the
venturi, so airflow increases there _must_ come from a larger diameter venturi
(since GM didn't perform the hand-conturing of the casting as was discribed in
the list last week).

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 13:07:34 EDT
From: Mrmagic442@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 carb choice

In a message dated 5/17/99 9:55:34 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
retrorockets@snet.net writes:

<< >
 >      It's the secondary throttle bores that are bigger not the primaries. 
And
 > the plates are not bigger it's the bore of the float bowl.
 
 Comment on above:
      According to Doug Roe's book on Q-jets, it's the primray venturies that 
are
 bigger on the 800 cfm models, 1 7/32" dia vs. 1 3/32" dia for the 750 cfm.
 
 Dude >>

      You are right.. I was thinking slower than I was typing. you can simply 
look down the bore and see the difference.
 
                    Next time I will think before typing..  LOL
                                     Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 12:09:14 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Taillight problem

Corey;
You have a bad ground, trace the ground wires back and clean them good with
fine sandpaper. (Both the wire end and the metal where it attaches).
Lou

>    The taillights on my H/O are giving me problems. They work fine when
> the parking lights are on but when the brakes are hit the top bulb on
> the drivers side goes out and the bottom bulb on the passenger side also
> goes out. The other two bulbs act normally, getting brighter. I`ve
> checked all the bulbs and traced the wiring and everything looks OK.
>    Any ideas on where to start looking would be appreciated, thanks. 
> 
> Corey Putnam
> 75 H/O W-30(my way)
> 87 Regal w/Olds 455
> 
> >>>>>>>>>Well, I'd start looking at grounding issues on those two lamp
> sockets.  They could be grounding back through the brake light circuit,
> until you hit the brakes.  Then the formerly gounded wire is now hot, and
> doesn't complete the circuit.  You might not notice, because the brake
light
> filament is much brighter, and requires more current to light.
> 
> 
> Check the continuity of the outer connection on the socket to a good
chassis
> ground.  Maybe connect one trouble light wire to 12v+ and use the other
lead
> to see if your ground is working.
> 
> CAUTION:  This probably isn't it.  Work safely.  Your mother warned you
> about this.
> 
> By the way, how's that new 455 working in the '75?  I'll bet it's faster
> than you thought it would be, huh?
> 
> Don Boyd
> 76 Cutlass factory 455, Hurst T-Tops

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 13:26:20 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 carb choice

In a message dated 5/17/99 9:55:19 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
tonwald@eta.k12.mn.us writes:

<<  The only 800 cfm Q-jet ever
 produced was put on 455 Buicks from '71 to '76 period. The increase in 50
 cfm comes from a larger primary venturi. The secondary side flows the same
 as 750 cfm units.
 
 Tony >>

	Not to start any MORE arguments, : )   but even according to Roes 
book I think they started using them on other motors after '71, and I have 
personally seen one on a Cadillac with a LARGE motor. I checked the venturis 
myself. Just for clarification if anyone really wants one.  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 11:38:03 -0600
From: "Blaine S." <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: Gremlin Mutations...

Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 12:15:38 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: This'll put a smile on your face

>http://hometown.aol.com/jmona75414/auto/index.htm  -link to pic
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=104087557
>-link to description

>The only question that comes to my mind (okay, I guess there are _several_
>:-) is how in the world he ever learned that a '73 Gremlin would mate with
a
>'46 Willys frame... Given what their offspring looks like, it's a good
thing
>not many others tried to breed them as well...

>- -- Andy

Hey, the guy was on the right track...  My brother has done the same thing,
only his looks a lot more tasteful (still an ugly mutant, though).  I don't
remember what frame he used -- think it was a Jeep wagoneer.  Anyway, the
body mounts lined up perfectly with those of the Jeep, and it looks almost
natural.  (have a picture here somewheres...).  He's got 33" tires on it,
and it stands about 7' tall.  After he finishes this Growling Gremlin, he
wants to make a Grem-burban -- a stretched gremlin on a Grand Cherokee
frame.  Hah hah...  what a sick man... ;)

Olds content:  He's the same brother that sold me my '72 Cutlass Supreme 10
years ago, and has been hounding me to sell it back ever since.

Blaine

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 12:35:35 -0500
From: "Randall G. Wright" <asap@i1.net>
Subject: DIESEL TO GAS

IS IT POSSIBLE TO USE THE DIESEL BLOCK IN A HIGH STRENGTH GAS BUILDUP? 
DOES THE DISTRIBUTOR FIT WHERE THE VAC. PUMP IS?  WHAT CRANK?  WHAT PISTONS
AND RODS?

THANKS,

RANDY

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 13:33:34 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Misc. and What went wrong?

Hi gang!

If anyone was addressing us, apologies are necessary.
Karl installed new OpenGL drivers to run the new Quake3 test beta and his 
mouse pointer disapeared.

Makes browsing Email via AOL kinda tough.

So, until the prob is rectified, few pithy idioms from here.

Very glad to see Chris Witt back.
Too bad karl was unable to read any of his posts.
(He'll learn how someday....)

And.....
Ready?
[hallucination on!]
Vis-a-vis swapping points and tuning without a timing light.

Paul, did you at any time sheck dwell on the old points and readjust to get 
30' dwell.

Karl did this twice before his points swap.
Both times adjusted dwell from 25 back to 30.
Karl did this (at least) twice before points swap.

Dwell is set for worn points.
Swap on new points.
Idle just sucks.
Karl believes your final timing is too far advanced due to prior dwell 
adjustment.
This jibes with the poor idle.
Ignition too soon and sometimes resulting in pseudo-missing.
This is why SOM was pinging like crazy.

No-timing-light Karl the Confused had his engine analyser out and was 
swapping cap and rotor the proper way (hold caps in close proximity, wire off 
old cap, wire on new cap, wire off old cap, wire on new cap, can't go 
wrong!). 
Start engine.
Listens hard as not sure engine running. Engine IS running so gets out and 
hooks up analyser.
Set dwell to 30.
Nope. Not it.
29' with screwdriver out.
Now 30.
Idle is a bit fast though.....
See, RPM shows over 800 on the meter.
So, 2GC slow idle screw adjustment.....yeilds no RPM change?
DOH!
Set the Analyser to RPM for 8 cylinder.
RPM over 1000.
Huh?
That's just too fast.
Dont wanna fuss too much here as not got timing light, and wanna set final 
timing by hand so drivable with no ping.
So, realising that proper final timing should be at a point where slow ide 
adjustment should allow RPM values around 600 RPM, Karl adjusts slow idle 
screw so that throttle plates are slightly open.
Then, distributor is rotated anticlockwise (um.... that's an analog clock, 
not digital!) until RPM indicator dips below 600.
Then, voila!
Adjust slow idle slightly, and 600 RPM.
Drive around block with an ear to WOT for pingy activity, and hear none.
Highway activities today show same lack of ping.

Not bad Karl.

But you're still an extremely silly person.

SOM

&KA  <-----Ecky, ecky, ecky, ecky, ptang! Rumboygen! Grauben!


(ni!)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 13:35:42 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Q-jet experience/H*lp? LONG

In a message dated 5/17/99 10:05:46 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
retrorockets@snet.net writes:

<< Dorian,
   Careful about opening the secondary air valve too soon by backing off on 
the
 spring.  That may be the cause of your problem at 3500 rpm, secondaries may 
be
 opening too soon.  Try setting the spring back at factory specs.
   Also, it looks like you went to a bigger cam.  If your manifold vacuum at 
idle
 dropped significantly,  the spring on the power piston may be pushing up your
 primary metering rods at idle and giving you an overly rich mixutre.  Does
 exhaust smell like it's rich?
 
 Dude >>

	Secondary air valve too soon??? : ) Amazingly, they open up very 
soon. As a matter of fact, I put smaller diameter rods in there, and a 
"shorter" hangar, and it actually stalled (not killed, just way too much gas) 
the car off the line. Backing off with the hangar (went to a middle of the 
road 'K" one) eliminated the off the line stuttering, but it still does it at 
high(er) RPM. I was amazed at how soon they actually opened...I always 
asssumed it took awhile. Once I hit 2000 RPM the motor could actually use the 
gas. I messed with the air valve tension quite a bit, even tightening it up 
above what it was before, when there was no bog, and not much change. So I 
set it back to almost not enough tension to close them, and there is no bog 
off the line. 
	Exhaust doesn't smell real rich at idle, and the cam produces plenty 
of vacuum (aren't vacuum assist brakes a good test of vacuum? Mine work fine) 
I can't believe just primary rod size could be making that much difference on 
the car, at least at the lower throttle settings where it 
surges.   		
				Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 13:45:22 EDT
From: RPTW32@aol.com
Subject: Re: Norwalk track

Had a blast at Norwalk track this weekend at the FLOWMASTER INVITATIONAL.
Drove 115 miles down there Fri night and was able to get 7 passes in for 
test/tune.
Pulled the power steering belt and 1st. pass 11.89 /113.8 mph.  Best pass of 
weekend was 11.72 /115 mph. thru full exhaust on DOT tire. Had em all 
scratching their heads.  Did identify that full 3" exhaust w/ 2 chamber 
flowmasters do perform as good as open headers as I uncorked er' for the 
first time and ran 11.73 . Buttoned back up and ran the 11.72. Smilin ever 
since.  Even made enough in round money to pay for the weekend.   What a 
country !!!

Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 13:07:45 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Norwalk track

Ron;
Good show, you were cookin!
Lou

> Had a blast at Norwalk track this weekend at the FLOWMASTER INVITATIONAL.
> Drove 115 miles down there Fri night and was able to get 7 passes in for 
> test/tune.
> Pulled the power steering belt and 1st. pass 11.89 /113.8 mph.  Best pass
of 
> weekend was 11.72 /115 mph. thru full exhaust on DOT tire. Had em all 
> scratching their heads.  Did identify that full 3" exhaust w/ 2 chamber 
> flowmasters do perform as good as open headers as I uncorked er' for the 
> first time and ran 11.73 . Buttoned back up and ran the 11.72. Smilin
ever 
> since.  Even made enough in round money to pay for the weekend.   What a 
> country !!!
> 
> Rob Thomas
> 69 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 14:07:39 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: DIESEL TO GAS

IS IT POSSIBLE TO USE THE DIESEL BLOCK IN A HIGH STRENGTH GAS BUILDUP?
DOES THE DISTRIBUTOR FIT WHERE THE VAC. PUMP IS?  WHAT CRANK?  WHAT PISTONS
AND RODS?

THANKS,

RANDY
_______

Not only is this possible, it's quite popular (in fact, about the only  thing
diesel Olds motors are good for is as raw materials for unbreakable gas
engines).  Mondello even sells a kit to convert a diesel short block to gas
without disassembling the shortblock.  All you need to do is replace the diesel
heads and intake with small block Olds gas engine counterparts (the diesel
pistons work just fine, as the compression is built in the heads).  Yes, the 
vac
pump is in the original distributor hole.  While not the most efficient
configuration, this one will work.

A better (and naturally more expensive) solution is to custom build a killer
motor based on a diesel block.  The diesel is unique amoung Olds small blocks 
in
that it uses the big block main bearing size.  As a result, the forged crank
from a 425 will drop in, though you'll need to have the rod journals cut down 
to
fit the small block rods.  Diesel rods are bulletproof but extremely heavy; the
403 rods are lighter but still beefier than comparable gas 350 rods.  You can
also overbore the diesel block up to 0.125" with no problem.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 14:29:00 -0400
From: "Jason Labay" <jlabay@tdin.com>
Subject: Re: Norwalk track

I saw your car there.  Damn did it run good :-) Do you race at Norwalk
often? I race there most Wed's and Fridays for Test and Tune.  I don't race
the 442 since its a bit embarassing running high 15's.  I am usually there
running in the 94 Caprice which is an unmarked Ohio Highway Patrol car.

Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio
94 Caprice LT1 4450lbs and 14.53 @ 94.59
80 Olds 442 W-30....a slow show car



>Had a blast at Norwalk track this weekend at the FLOWMASTER INVITATIONAL.
>Drove 115 miles down there Fri night and was able to get 7 passes in for
>test/tune.
>Pulled the power steering belt and 1st. pass 11.89 /113.8 mph.  Best pass
of
>weekend was 11.72 /115 mph. thru full exhaust on DOT tire. Had em all
>scratching their heads.  Did identify that full 3" exhaust w/ 2 chamber
>flowmasters do perform as good as open headers as I uncorked er' for the
>first time and ran 11.73 . Buttoned back up and ran the 11.72. Smilin ever
>since.  Even made enough in round money to pay for the weekend.   What a
>country !!!

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1962
*********************************

