Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1943


oldsmobile-digest       Wednesday, May 5 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1943



Re: Convertible Top position
RE: 70 DELTA88 QUESTIONS
Re: 73 H/O For Sale
ICQ
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1941
Re: Torque Safety Strap
55 Olds Info needed  (was RE: REQ: 1953 Olds Info)
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1941
Re: ICQ
Re: trojan horse viruses (virii???)
painting bumpers
1965 hood pad clips
Dash light question
moon discs wanted
Re: 65-67 Olds Interior Lights
Re: 55 Olds Info needed  (was RE: REQ: 1953 Olds Info)
Re: Bolt circle measurements
Painting my car.
Re: ID the elusive 403 SMW?
Re: 65-67 Olds Interior Lights
Re: Happy99 Virus on Olds Mailing List - More info
70 DELTA88 FRONT  FENDERS
Re: Painting my car.
olds website -needs new name
Re: olds website -needs new name
Body Mounts - 80 Cutlass
RE: 1965 hood pads
RE: 70 DELTA88 FRONT  FENDERS
79 Olds conversion
Re: Painting my car.
Backspacing
Date:	Wed, 5 May 1999 15:14:19 -0500
Re: Dash piece? 67 Cutlass
Re: Dash light question
Re: Parking lights, long
Re:  Today's Inexplicable License Plate
How much for a tach?
Re: 70 DELTA88 FRONT  FENDERS
Danbury Mint 1970 442 W-30 Convertible
Re: 1965 hood pad clips
cranking pressure and CR, revisited (geeky, be warned!)
RE: Car Number <cfoutput>90</cfoutput>
RE: Car Number <cfoutput>187</cfoutput>
Re: ICQ
Re: levelling system?
Fender/Doors
UNBOUNCE: Re: Restoration
Re: cranking pressure and CR, revisited (geeky, be warned!)
UNBOUNCE: 2 Questions
Re: Today's Inexplicable License Plate
Re: Mechanical vs. hydraulic cam
Re: Painting my car.

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 10:37:05 EDT
From: SrDietW30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Convertible Top position

<< Glenn J. Martin wrote:
 > > 
 > > I have a newly restored 1972 Cutlass convertible with a new top and 
hardware.  I am 		wondering if there is any problems with 
leaving the top down with the boot on it for 		the summer? 

	Glenn,
		This is probably worst case but I did leave the top down on 
my 70 C/S for months at a time.  I covered the car to keep the dust & dirt 
out.  One day putting the top up the back window ripped out of the rear 
curtain.  I can't say for sure that the top & curtain shrank that much but it 
appeared that way.  Believe it or not,  I bought the top from year 1 and had 
it sitting in the boxes for +/- a year,  had it on the car 2 years before I 
completed the car and had the car finished about 1-1/2 years when the window 
ripped out.  Year one gave me a replacement top at no charge after 4-1/2 
years. 

Steve Dietrich
  S/E PA
	71 442 W30 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 07:47:58 -0700 
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: 70 DELTA88 QUESTIONS

The fan shroud should fit as long as you use the same year donor car. This
is true for my 66. The key is that the
motor be set back the same distance from the radiator core support in both
cars.

Check Hollanders for confirmation of 70 98/88 fender swappability, my guess
is that it should be a swap except for trim that will say Ninety Eight vs.
Eighty Eight and the chrome pieces. I have used 88 fenders on my 66 98 and
98/88 fenders on my 66 Starfire.They work just fine, but you will probably
have to fill some script holes and otherwise provide for differences in 
decorative pot metal trim.

Going from single to dual exhaust with factory parts is quite a trick,
mainly because of the rarity of the driver's
side exh. manifold and a special transmission linkage which goes over the
driver's side exhaust pipe in a half 
moon shape. If you can find these rare parts, you're good to go. See
www.442.com tech pages for a better description of the linkage. You might be
able to fake it with the single driver's side crossover manifold, but it
will run darn close to
the starter motor wires which may make starting difficult. The manifold
you're looking for was found on 88 cop cars from
65 to 70 or so and Starfire motor equipped 88's,98's. Basically hot motored
big cars had 'em, but they didn't make too many of these. I've come across
precisely two of these manifolds in my 15 years of boneyarding.

Hope this helps. 
cf


- -----Original Message-----
From: EDMUND WILLIAMS [mailto:efw67@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 1999 10:42 PM
To: OLDSMOBILE@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 70 DELTA88 QUESTIONS


I want to know if a radiator shroud for a 70 Delta88 with a 455 motor
with AC will work on a 455 motor
without AC. I am thinking of buying a shroud off of an AC car to put on
my non AC car. Anyone who might know if this will work please E-Mail
me. Also will '70 98 front fenders work on a '70 88? And finally, I
want to make my single exhaust into duals on my 88 can I use the
original single exhaust manifols to do this? Anyone please help me.
Thanks Ed
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 10:56:29 -0500
From: "Dan Schein" <dschein@awiweb.com>
Subject: Re: 73 H/O For Sale

On Wed, 5 May 1999 Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca> wrote:
>
>Not on the list; respond to schein@netzero.net if interested.
>
>
>- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
>From:    "Dan Schein" <schein@netzero.net>
>Subject: 1973 Hurst / Olds for sale
>
>My 1973 Hurst/Olds has gradually shifted from a labor of love to just labor
>over the 16 years I have owned it. Rather than see it sit and go unused or
>worse, I have made the (hard) decision to sell it. You can see photos and
>get all the details at http://schein.webjump.com/olds/73ho.html
>
>Thanks in advance for any help in finding a new home for this beauty.

I am on the list (not very active) just from this address (dschein@awiweb.com)

- -Dan

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 11:08:13 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: ICQ

Are any of you ICQ users? I have a friend in Columbus that keeps nagging me
to install ICQ so we can send realtime messages. So I figured I'd give it a
shot and load it up today at lunchtime. Maybe some of us can take some Olds
b-essing realtime. Just wondering.

Omega Man
'74 Omega S 455
'74 Omega L_T_P..............

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 11:16:59 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1941

In a message dated 05/05/1999 8:57:45 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
ggilpin@wrallp.com writes:

<< Does anyone know what happens if you run the Happy99 virus?
 Maybe I should fire it up on my cubical buddys machine and find out :->
 
 Olds content......none
 
 Omega Man >>

I hope you don't like the guy. lol

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 11:26:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Re: Torque Safety Strap

For those of you who have a modified 455 and are thinking of installing a 
safety strap between the drivers side accessory bolt and the front upper
control are bolt - Dont Do It -- at least do not use the control arm bolt.
A modified 455 puts out enough torque to pull on the control arm bolt and 
your alignment shims will fall out - it is impossible to torque the control
arm bolt sufficently to overcome the torque of the motor- you may find a
convenient hole in the cross member that will work better


Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio 
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets  
  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 11:33:10 -0400
From: "Bruce D. Brumm" <bdbrumm@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: 55 Olds Info needed  (was RE: REQ: 1953 Olds Info)

Ok, I tried to reply to Daniel Rieke directly, but apparently
Greg Beaulieu forwarded his message to the list.

I have a friend who is working on an IP for a 55 Olds.  The IP has been
cut from the car and is in the process of being restored for a display.
Picture a fully-functional IP surrounded by technical drawings, renderings,
etc.

I need information on 55 Olds IP's like...
    Paint Color Options
    Any Photo's of Interiors (definitely IP photo's)
    Copies of assembly manual on IP components
    Any cool stuff on 55 Olds
    What good book with photo's is there on mid fifty Olds?
If anybody has any information, please reply off-list to my address below.
TIA,
Bruce
- --------------
Bruce D. Brumm
bdbrumm@ix.netcom.com
'86 Cutlass Salon (307-Y, t-tops, etc.)
Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else.

- -----Original Message-----
(various SNIPS)
>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Daniel Rieke
>Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 12:47 AM
>Subject: Re: REQ: 1953 Olds Info
>If anyone needs info on 1953 olds, i have a 53 98, as well as a parts car,
>and about 7 original manuals for this year, carb manual, paint chips, parts
>number book, service station manual, etc etc etc....
>Daniel
>
>Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> On Fri, 30 Apr 1999, Reed, Stephen wrote:
> > Hey List!
> >       I have just found out about a 1953 Olds from a guy at work.
> Hey Steve!
> What happened? Did you get it? Sounds like there has to be an interesting
> story connected with it... fill us in.
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 09:41:13 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1941

Gene Gilpin wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know what happens if you run the Happy99 virus?
> Maybe I should fire it up on my cubical buddys machine and find out :->

Here is the info:

Happy99 is a Win32 based Trojan program. When this program is executed it will
display some fireworks. Apart from the fireworks display this program will two
files SKA.EXE and SKA.DLL. It will alter WSOCK32.DLL to put its code into that
file and keep the original file as WSOCK32.SKA. It can not modify the
WSOCK32.DLL file if it is in use. In such a case this program will add an entry
to the Windows Registry to run SKA.EXE the next time the computer is booted so
that it can do these modifications. The size of this trojan file is 10000
bytes.

You will not get infected by Happy99 merely by downloading the trojan file. You
will have to execute it to get infected.

The modified WSOCK32.DLL has routines to detect the email and newsgroup
postings made by the user. It will send a copy of the SKA.EXE file renamed as
happy99.exe to every user or newsgroup to whom the user has sends an email.
Each recipient will get the email only once and the trojan will not send repeat
email to the same user. It will send a separate email retaining the subject of
the first email with the file as an attachment. The trojan also maintains the
file LISTE.SKA which contains the list of all email addresses and newsgroups to
which this file has been sent. The unique function of this trojan is that it
can spread on its own.

Happy99 first appeared in January 1999 and it is reported to have affected a
lot of users.


If I was going to write a trojan horse virus I would make it more useful and
more insidious, say a program or bunch of programs that let you do useful
things like write letters and calculate your mortgage.  That way more people
would want and install it.  But it would be huge and take all you disk space
and it would slow down your system to a crawl and every so often it would just
crash and you would have to re-boot.  And I'd name it Orfice.  Maybe I could
even convince people to pay for it.

Or has that already been done?
- -- 

Cliff "Bill" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 11:15:34 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: ICQ

>Are any of you ICQ users? I have a friend in Columbus that keeps nagging me
>to install ICQ so we can send realtime messages. So I figured I'd give it a
>shot and load it up today at lunchtime. Maybe some of us can take some Olds
>b-essing realtime. Just wondering.
>
>Omega Man
>'74 Omega S 455
>'74 Omega L_T_P..............
>

There's a whole bunch of us on ICQ, but catching somebody while
they're on is a whole other matter.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 12:24:09 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: trojan horse viruses (virii???)

In a message dated 99-05-05 11:43:19 EDT, you write:

<<  But it would be huge and take all you disk space and it would slow down 
your system to a crawl and every so often it would just crash and you would 
have to re-boot.  And I'd name it Orfice.  Maybe I could even convince people 
to pay for it.
 
 Or has that already been done? >>

Afraid so.

It's called Windows98.

Why else would anyone ~need~ 500Mhz, but to give the illusion that programs 
were executing at acceptable speeds?

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 09:30:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Edwin Burger <erb22@yahoo.com>
Subject: painting bumpers

hello all.  the chrome on my rear bumper is kinda nasty looking, so i'm
thinking about painting it body color when i repaint the car.  what
prep work is required? can i use body filler on the bumper?

further:
the car is a '70 442.  any thoughts on how it would look with a painted
bumper? maybe someone has a picture of a '70 - '72 cutlass with painted
bumpers?

thanks!
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 12:29:54 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: 1965 hood pad clips

In a message dated 99-05-05 10:48:54 EDT, you write:

<< I have used 88 fenders on my 66 98 and 98/88 fenders on my 66 Starfire. >>

Ah, good.

Hey!

While you are thinking in terms of year, we gots a Q.

As its warmed up here, and a replacement at hand, Karl has ripped out the old 
filthy hood pad. It had mostly square plastic clips, but two round plastic 
ones.

So... which ones are "correct" for 1965?

BTW... the round black plastic ones hung on for dear life!!!!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 12:40:15 -0400
From: "John H. Edmonds III" <edmonds@UU.NET>
Subject: Dash light question

List,

    The lights that illuminate the speedometer/idiot light cluster
appear to have burned out in my 67 Cutlass; does anyone have any
experience checking/replacing those bulbs? Thanks in advance...

- --
=============================================================================

John H. Edmonds III
Backbone Engineer, Network Design and Activation
UUNET WorldCom
(703) 289-8067

Once you've heard the truth, everything else is just cheap whiskey...
=============================================================================

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 09:42:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Edwin Burger <erb22@yahoo.com>
Subject: moon discs wanted

i'm looking for a used set of 15" moon discs (like the ones on salt
flat racers). snap on or screw in.

thanks!


_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 12:38:27 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: 65-67 Olds Interior Lights

In a message dated 99-05-04 22:09:57 EDT, you write:

<< Headlight, Instrument Pane and Dome Light Switch - "To operate the dome
 and courtesy lights, turn the switch knob fully counterclockwise."
 
 Courtesy & Map Lights - "The courtesy lights and map light are
 controlled by the switch located aboth the glove compartment door."
 
 Confused?  Are the courtesy lights controlled by both switches?  And
 what, exactly, do they mean by courtesy lights?
 
 Maybe they're all supposed to come on at the same time with either
 switch. >>

All we can add here is that SOM not came with Courtesans.
Too bad.

Nor were there courtesy lights or map light.

Have acquired most necessary parts to install, but definitely seem to lack an 
attaching point in the wire harness.

And the map-light was easy.
There was a metal plate covering the cutout for the map light.
Just unscrew fasteners and remove, place map light there.
If only there were a good point for hookup.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 10:41:05 -0700
From: Daniel Rieke <wssc@rt66.com>
Subject: Re: 55 Olds Info needed  (was RE: REQ: 1953 Olds Info)

Bruce-

Here are items that can be found on the 55 olds on Ebay today. Many items will
show up again and again, so wait untill you can get one at a good price. Also
check the people with olds literature in the olds section of Hemmings..

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=98156600  ( magazine
article with color giude )
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=97794416   ( sales
catalog )
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=98625691 ( same catalog
as above )
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=97999256 ( high quality
model car )
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=98332653 ( silver bar )
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=98342599 ( same silver
bar )
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=97855761 ( color ad )
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=98453716 ( a holiday 88
* this is a real car * )
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=98924870 ( Maintenance
Manual )
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=99122340 ( paint chips )

Daniel Rieke

"Bruce D. Brumm" wrote:

> Ok, I tried to reply to Daniel Rieke directly, but apparently
> Greg Beaulieu forwarded his message to the list.
>
> I have a friend who is working on an IP for a 55 Olds.  The IP has been
> cut from the car and is in the process of being restored for a display.
> Picture a fully-functional IP surrounded by technical drawings, renderings,
> etc.
>
> I need information on 55 Olds IP's like...
>     Paint Color Options
>     Any Photo's of Interiors (definitely IP photo's)
>     Copies of assembly manual on IP components
>     Any cool stuff on 55 Olds
>     What good book with photo's is there on mid fifty Olds?
> If anybody has any information, please reply off-list to my address below.
> TIA,
> Bruce
> --------------
> Bruce D. Brumm
> bdbrumm@ix.netcom.com
> '86 Cutlass Salon (307-Y, t-tops, etc.)
> Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> (various SNIPS)
> >[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Daniel Rieke
> >Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 12:47 AM
> >Subject: Re: REQ: 1953 Olds Info
> >If anyone needs info on 1953 olds, i have a 53 98, as well as a parts car,
> >and about 7 original manuals for this year, carb manual, paint chips, parts
> >number book, service station manual, etc etc etc....
> >Daniel
> >
> >Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> > On Fri, 30 Apr 1999, Reed, Stephen wrote:
> > > Hey List!
> > >       I have just found out about a 1953 Olds from a guy at work.
> > Hey Steve!
> > What happened? Did you get it? Sounds like there has to be an interesting
> > story connected with it... fill us in.
> > Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 12:41:30 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bolt circle measurements

In a message dated 99-05-04 19:55:23 EDT, you write:

<< Can someone tell me the convention for measuring the bolt circle diameter 
for 
 auto wheels. >>

Flame as necessary if wrong, but for 5x5" and 5x4.75" isn't the distance 
between two non-adjacent bolts 1/4" less than the total bolt pattern: i.e. 
4.75" and 4.5"?

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 17:17:46 GMT
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Painting my car.

Hi all,

I just got my car back from the body shop.  From date of accident to today 
has been three months.  I am glad to get my car back, but I am disappointed 
in the color.

Original WrEck PiX @ http://www2.bladeti.com/cars

It looks a lot different from the gold color that I picked and even slightly 
darker than the original paint.  From a distance it looks like a blah beige 
brown.  Disappointed, and a little pissed.  If I had known that it would 
look like this I would have had it painted a red stock color instead.

It is scheduled to be buffed and polished in about two weeks.  Will it make 
any noticable difference once it is buffed and polished.  What recourse do I 
have.  I am due for final installment after the car is buffed and polished 
out.

What should I expect for a $2500-3000 of body work and paint job.  I 
replaced the right front fender myself and had some straightening and done 
to the rear and left and right rear quarter panel.  90% of it was worked out 
with minimal bondo work.  Damn, it looked better in primer.

Aaaargh,

Chris Rivier
Austin,TX
'66 Delta 88   The BEAST under CONSTRUCTION.
'88 Festiva   ZIPPY 166K Lil' Parts Hauler.


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 13:13:21 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: ID the elusive 403 SMW?

In a message dated 5/5/99 6:19:58 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
Thomas.Martin@motorola.com writes:

<< I suspect if ANY car DID have it, it would be a 77 Buick/Olds/Pont/Hearse
 wagon with the HD towing package and HD brakes, then secondly it would be
 the 403 "K" that had the Misar computer control system installed on Toro's
 in 1977, then some of the 77 T/A's with the 403.  >>

	My 403 block casting is one of the ones that matches the supposed SMW 
403 block numbers. This early casting (it was used in '77) was used in 
Firebirds, Wagons, you name it. And it's webs ARE NOT solid : ) I don't know 
about anyone else, but now that I think about it, did GM make any blocks that 
were the same casting number, but had different specs? I assume they did once 
or twice (396/402 maybe?) But it seems to me, unless a mistake, that it would 
be quite difficult to keep them all seperated during production, and 
earmarked for something that was kind of a special application. I could see 
it if they were designed for race only, and not to be put into production 
cars, but therwise, seems like a huge headache, and at a time when GM was 
really tightening their 
belts. 							
										
							Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 10:52:23 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 65-67 Olds Interior Lights

>Have acquired most necessary parts to install, but definitely seem
>to lack an attaching point in the wire harness.

If the map light is to be turned on only when desired, not when you open a 
door, I assume it has its own switch. If so, connect it to whatever orange 
(hot-at-all-times) wire is available behind the dash, such as the clock or 
cigar lighter. Grounding will go through the body of the switch into the 
frame of the dash.

If it ties into the interior light circuits (which would be the answer if it 
has two wires coming out of it instead of one, and/or it doesn't ground into 
the frame of whatever it's installed in), then you need to find the power 
supply going to any of your interior lights, and the accompanying 
switched-ground wire which runs from the interior light(s) down to the door 
pinswitches and the headlight switch. Tap into those two wires, and the map 
light should come on whenever a door is opened. If the map light also has 
its own switch, that probably allows the map light to ground into the frame 
when the switch is flipped, which allows the map light to come on by itself.

I'd start by removing the dome light and finding the colors of the two wires 
serving it. One will be hot, so be careful. The other will be the switched 
ground, going to the pin switches and the headlight switch.

The hot lead provides juice to all the interior lights. The switched ground 
allows them all to turn on as soon as it's grounded anywhere. This can get a 
little confusing since it's bass-ackwards compared to most other ciruits on 
the car, which switch on the power, not the ground, but there you are...

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 13:53:46 EDT
From: NUOLDSMAN@aol.com
Subject: Re: Happy99 Virus on Olds Mailing List - More info

Hi Greg,
     What happens with this virus?  I downloaded it last night, but I don't 
think I opened the file.  If I just delete it, will I be all right?
Thanks, 
Steve

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 11:10:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: EDMUND WILLIAMS <efw67@yahoo.com>
Subject: 70 DELTA88 FRONT  FENDERS

Does anyone out there know where I can find front fenders for my 70
Delta88. I have a 4dr holiday sedan (non post). Will fenders off of a
2dr car work on my 4dr? Anyone please help. Thanks ED From Queens New
York. PS, I would prefer to get the fenders somewhere near NY.

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 13:07:47 -0500
From: "Carlos Rincon" <crincon@nssihouston.com>
Subject: Re: Painting my car.

was ur car originally burnished gold?  Mine was and it came back a slightly
lighter color and I don't mind the color as burnished gold has a voc
compound that is banned now.
Carlos
- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris Rivier <crivier@hotmail.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 12:16 PM
Subject: Painting my car.


>Hi all,
>
>I just got my car back from the body shop.  From date of accident to today
>has been three months.  I am glad to get my car back, but I am disappointed
>in the color.
>
>Original WrEck PiX @ http://www2.bladeti.com/cars
>
>It looks a lot different from the gold color that I picked and even
slightly
>darker than the original paint.  From a distance it looks like a blah beige
>brown.  Disappointed, and a little pissed.  If I had known that it would
>look like this I would have had it painted a red stock color instead.
>
>It is scheduled to be buffed and polished in about two weeks.  Will it make
>any noticable difference once it is buffed and polished.  What recourse do
I
>have.  I am due for final installment after the car is buffed and polished
>out.
>
>What should I expect for a $2500-3000 of body work and paint job.  I
>replaced the right front fender myself and had some straightening and done
>to the rear and left and right rear quarter panel.  90% of it was worked
out
>with minimal bondo work.  Damn, it looked better in primer.
>
>Aaaargh,
>
>Chris Rivier
>Austin,TX
>'66 Delta 88   The BEAST under CONSTRUCTION.
>'88 Festiva   ZIPPY 166K Lil' Parts Hauler.
>
>
>_______________________________________________________________
>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 14:25:18 -0400
From: CCAC Network User cgc74 <cgc74@unix1.ccac.edu>
Subject: olds website -needs new name

O.K. so it's a stretch to call this Olds related since it doesn't deal
with an actual Olds.  I'm sure some/most of you are familiar with my
website at
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/6603
I am in the process of upgrading and moving to a new server(no geo-mark
- -wahoo)  I've decided that I no longer like "The Oldsmobile Experience"
name.  I've been having trouble coming up with a new one though, so I
thought someone here might have a suggestion.  I've been thinking all
week and the best I can come up with is "Addicted to Olds".  Please send
any suggestions directly to me at cgc74@unix1.ccac.edu Thanks
- -Chris

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 11:29:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: olds website -needs new name

uh... how about 'Oldsaholics Anonymous?



- --- CCAC Network User cgc74 <cgc74@unix1.ccac.edu> wrote:
> O.K. so it's a stretch to call this Olds related since it doesn't
> deal
> with an actual Olds.  I'm sure some/most of you are familiar with my
> website at
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Downs/6603
> I am in the process of upgrading and moving to a new server(no
> geo-mark
> -wahoo)  I've decided that I no longer like "The Oldsmobile
> Experience"
> name.  I've been having trouble coming up with a new one though, so I
> thought someone here might have a suggestion.  I've been thinking all
> week and the best I can come up with is "Addicted to Olds".  Please
> send
> any suggestions directly to me at cgc74@unix1.ccac.edu Thanks
> -Chris
> 

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 13:45:49 -0500 
From: Lance Kistner <lkistner@insul-8.com>
Subject: Body Mounts - 80 Cutlass

This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.

- ------_=_NextPart_001_01BE9727.8237CE90
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I'm looking for a body mount set (upper, lower, bolt, etc) for my 80 =
Cutlass
Supreme.=A0 Existing ones can't be reused (rusted out very badly), so =
looking
for direction on where to obtain them.=A0 Local part stores don't carry =
them
and the dealership prices=A0 seem very high.=A0=20
=A0
Re-doing entire vehicle, so looking for new rather then used.=A0 But =
open for
suggestions from group.=A0 Thanks.
=A0
=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=
=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=
=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=
=A0=A0=A0=A0
=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0=A0 Lance

- ------_=_NextPart_001_01BE9727.8237CE90
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>
<META HTTP-EQUIV=3D"Content-Type" CONTENT=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Diso-8859-1">



<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D460463518-05051999><FONT color=3D#000000 =
face=3DArial size=3D2>I'm=20
looking for a body mount set (upper, lower, bolt, etc) for my 80 =
Cutlass=20
Supreme.&nbsp; Existing ones can't be reused (rusted out very badly), =
so looking=20
for direction on where to obtain them.&nbsp; Local part stores don't =
carry them=20
and the dealership prices&nbsp; seem very high.&nbsp; =
</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D460463518-05051999><FONT color=3D#000000 =
face=3DArial=20
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D460463518-05051999><FONT color=3D#000000 =
face=3DArial=20
size=3D2>Re-doing entire vehicle, so looking for new rather then =
used.&nbsp; But=20
open for suggestions from group.&nbsp; Thanks.</FONT></SPAN></DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D460463518-05051999><FONT color=3D#000000 =
face=3DArial=20
size=3D2></FONT></SPAN>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><SPAN class=3D460463518-05051999><FONT color=3D#000000 =
face=3DArial=20
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;=20
Lance</FONT></SPAN></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------_=_NextPart_001_01BE9727.8237CE90--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 12:02:20 -0700 
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: 1965 hood pads

Me thinks the square ones are the correct style. Check with Fusicks to be
sure. They won't steer you wrong. Also they prob'ly have 'em in stock.

I don't have hood pads on either of my 66's. On the Starfire I had the
underside painted black and it looks too good
to cover. On the 98, I've just never bothered to replace it. 

What is the purpose of this pad? Is it to protect the hood paint?

cf

- -----Original Message-----
From: KarlAunan@aol.com [mailto:KarlAunan@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 9:30 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 1965 hood pad clips


In a message dated 99-05-05 10:48:54 EDT, you write:

<< I have used 88 fenders on my 66 98 and 98/88 fenders on my 66 Starfire.
>>

Ah, good.

Hey!

While you are thinking in terms of year, we gots a Q.

As its warmed up here, and a replacement at hand, Karl has ripped out the
old 
filthy hood pad. It had mostly square plastic clips, but two round plastic 
ones.

So... which ones are "correct" for 1965?

BTW... the round black plastic ones hung on for dear life!!!!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 12:04:54 -0700 
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: 70 DELTA88 FRONT  FENDERS

Fenders off a 2 door 88 or 98 ought to work so long as they're from the same
year.

- -----Original Message-----
From: EDMUND WILLIAMS [mailto:efw67@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 11:11 AM
To: OLDSMOBILE@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 70 DELTA88 FRONT FENDERS


Does anyone out there know where I can find front fenders for my 70
Delta88. I have a 4dr holiday sedan (non post). Will fenders off of a
2dr car work on my 4dr? Anyone please help. Thanks ED From Queens New
York. PS, I would prefer to get the fenders somewhere near NY.

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 14:09:16 -0700
From: Andy Lawrence <lawrencj@coral.indstate.edu>
Subject: 79 Olds conversion

OK, i know you guy don't like this idea, but i am going to put a 454
Chevy in my 79 Olds...the reason that i am going to do this is because i
have a heavly built 454 just sitting in the shop!  I have heard that
someone makes frame mounts just for this occasion, anyone know who?
Howabout Headers?

Andy
79 Olds

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 19:11:58 GMT
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Painting my car.

Yes, it was burnished gold.  Mine came back darker though.


Chris Rivier
Austin,TX
'66 Delta 88   The BEAST under CONSTRUCTION.

====
was ur car originally burnished gold?  Mine was and it came back a slightly 
lighter color and I don't mind the color as burnished gold has a voc 
compound that is banned now.
Carlos


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 15:11:51 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Backspacing

I have a 72 442 convertible. I am looking to buy Weld Pro Star rims 15 x 8.
I was wondering what is the best backspacing (3 1/2 or 4 1/2)? Does anypone
think I can run a 30 x 10 drag radial without rubbing. I believe the
convertible wheel well has more room than the hardtop.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 15:14:19 -0500
From: "Frank upton" <fupton@c-cars.com>
Subject: Date:	Wed, 5 May 1999 15:14:19 -0500

Hi From C-CARS

We are currently looking for new listings of Classic and Collectible
Vehicles. If there are any Classic or Collectable vehicles that you are
looking for or if you know of any for sale, please contact us at
C-CARS so we can help you with locating or selling them.  We have over 185
vehicles in our inventory for sale.  We have over 20,000 customers in our
database that our wanting to sell, buy or just currently looking. You can
find these at our new web site.
http://www.c-cars.com

Here are just a few of the cars we are currently looking for: 1969 Chevy
Camaro RS Convertible, 1959 Series 62 Cadillac Convertible, 1941 Willys
Coupe (All Steel), 1957 Ford Thunderbird (Black Only), 1962 Pontiac Grand
Prix and 1947 Lincoln Continental Convertible.

We are centrally located in the United States, in Kansas.  This will make
shipping more convenient from just about anywhere in the country.  I look
forward into helping you with all yours Classic and Collectible car needs.
If you would like to have your vehicle viewed by over 20,000 people
tomorrow, please give us a call or email us.

Here is a sample of one of our vehicles currently in inventory. Check it
out, http:// www.c-cars.com/edit.cfm?ID=187
We can also do this with your vehicle.

P.S. We are always looking for new locators to help find Vehicles around the
world.  We pay $200.00 per vehicle we buy that only the vehicle we buy.


Thanks Frank

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 17:39:08 -0400
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: Dash piece? 67 Cutlass

Bill's website is: http://www.marketspot.com/442home.asp

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 17:41:44 -0400
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: Re: Dash light question

Yep, just remove the circular lens piece from the front of the
dash...Just be careful of the colored lenses underneath.  They along
with the plastic pieces that cover the lights tend to become brittle
with age.  I forget the number of the lightbulbs, but they sell them in
any auto parts store.

Art

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 14:38:45 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Parking lights, long

>I took it as a given that the wire was hot in my car since
>the lights worked and I was going by the factory schematic
>with the color codes.  I did probe the problem car and got
>nothing.

Um, nothing where? Basically, with the switch installed and turned on, the 
brown wire should have +12V as measured in the trunk. If so, the lights 
should be on. If not (and evidently it is indeed dead), stab the brown wire 
up at the dashboard end and see if it's hot there. If not, do whatever you 
can to see if the contact coming out of the headlight switch is hot. IOW, 
there isn't a whole lot of tracing to do on this circuit; it just comes out 
of the switch and runs to the back of the car.

>Starting to think that a short in one of
>the other circuits (i.e. dash lights,
>interior lights, etc.) that is tied
>into the headlight switch has a short in
>it and is letting all the current bypass the
>parking lights.  Sound plausible?

Not really. The other lights (such as the dash lights) have separate 
unrelated outputs from the headlight switch. The dash lamps also run through 
its rheostat (dimmer). The interior lights don't run through it per se; it 
grounds them to turn them on. (See other long boring thread about courtesy 
light wiring.  :-) And a short anywhere would blow fuses.

>Chris had already bought a new switch and that was the first
>thing I tried. In thinking that the new switch might be bad
>I tried them both in my car and they both worked fine.  I
>didn't try my switch as that seemed pointless at that time.

Actually I think it's a wiring fault and your switch wouldn't work in his 
car anyway. Maybe you've got an intermittent open, such as broken wires 
inside the insulation. I've found that in some strange places.

You might want to inspect that big ugly plug that the headlamp switch 
connects to, and see if the individual connections inside it aren't actually 
missing the switch contacts somehow. I think you said that you shot 12 volts 
down the brown wire and the lights came on, right? That would seem to imply 
that the plug isn't electrically connecting to the headlight switch, even 
though it's physically plugged in.

Look, send me a plane ticket and I'll be right out. It's rainy in Chicago 
anyway.  :-)

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 14:02 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re:  Today's Inexplicable License Plate

From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
>So I'm on my way to the train station and come up to a stop sign 
>behind Illinois license plate MINE 442... on a black Mustang GT 
>convertible. I can think of two or three possibilities for this:
>
>1) Clueless driver who bought his car at night from smooth-talking 
>salesman
>2) Wishful thinking to impress the ladies
>3) His Olds got stolen and this is all the insurance company would 
>pay for :-)
>
____________________________________________

No, No, he means "mine 4 for (your) 2", which is to say, 4 new and 
shiny Mustang GT's are worth - in car enthusiast terms - about the 
same as 2 rusted out Oldsmobile mufflers. 

- -John Carri (still suffering from Karl-like hallucinations....)
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 17:15:24 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: How much for a tach?

I think that I would like to buy a dwell/tachometer (and if that's not what
it's called, then what is it called?) that I would use to do timing
adjustments, etc.  This wouldn't be of a type that you could readily use
while driving (although anything's possible, I suppose...) - I would keep
it on the shelf right next to the timing light until I needed it.

I saw what I think was a SunPro model at Parts America for $40 - is this a
decent price?

Does anyone want to share info on just the GREATEST one of these they've
ever owned, or a brand that absolutely sucks?

Thanks,
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 18:41:37 -0700
From: "Peter Berusch" <berusch@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 70 DELTA88 FRONT  FENDERS

>Does anyone out there know where I can find front fenders for my 70
>Delta88. I have a 4dr holiday sedan (non post). Will fenders off of a
>2dr car work on my 4dr? Anyone please help. Thanks ED From Queens New
>York. PS, I would prefer to get the fenders somewhere near NY.
>
  I've got 'em, but Jawja ain't exactly Delancey Street.  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 17:59:01 -0500 
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
Subject: Danbury Mint 1970 442 W-30 Convertible

Hi Folks,
            Received my Danbury Mint Die-Cast 442 today, and the detail
is incredible.  VERY nicely done.  Tracey Cleeton was a list member a
few years ago, and the Danbury guys measured and took pictures of his
car in late '96.  (He used to have a website, but I can't find it now.)
Anyway, I don't get a kickback from the sale of these Die-Cast models
when I say this model is nice.  (I wish I DID get a cut of the sales.
:-)  Here are their numbers, for anybody interested:

Danbury Mint:  1-800-493-2934   (8 AM - Midnight ET 7 days a week)
	Fax line:   1-800-813-2670

	Later,

Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
Columbus, MS         1987 442

http://www.442.com/newman.html               1987 442
http://www.442.com/newmantape.html        Centennial Tape Info.  




  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 19:10:14 -0400
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: 1965 hood pad clips

Karl

        The square ones are correct. We carry spares at $.75 ea and they come
with our hood pads.

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts


At 12:29 PM 5/5/1999 , you wrote:
>In a message dated 99-05-05 10:48:54 EDT, you write:
>
><< I have used 88 fenders on my 66 98 and 98/88 fenders on my 66 Starfire. >>
>
>Ah, good.
>
>Hey!
>
>While you are thinking in terms of year, we gots a Q.
>
>As its warmed up here, and a replacement at hand, Karl has ripped out the old 
>filthy hood pad. It had mostly square plastic clips, but two round plastic 
>ones.
>
>So... which ones are "correct" for 1965?
>
>BTW... the round black plastic ones hung on for dear life!!!!
>
>SOM
>
>&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 15:21 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: cranking pressure and CR, revisited (geeky, be warned!)

A few days ago there was a thread about trying to relate measured 
cranking pressure to the compression ratio of an engine. A couple of 
us did the (wrong) P1 V1 = P2 V2 calculation, which suggests that the 
cranking pressure will be atmospheric pressure x compression ratio. 
That answer turned out to be too low (only 132 psi for a 9:1 engine). 
A fellow listee (unfortunately I forget whom) pointed out that there 
is a temperature rise in the trapped air due to the compression, and 
this makes the cranking pressure higher than the formula above, which 
assumes a constant temperature (isothermal) process.

I thought it would be interesting to see where that idea could take 
us. Instead of the (wrong) assumption that the temperature of the 
trapped air stays constant, let's take the opposite stance and assume 
the air is compressed so quickly that it loses almost no heat to the 
cylinder-walls. This is what is called an "adiabatic" expansion, and 
the law governing this is

P1 x (V1)^r = P2 x (V2)^r

where r = 1.4 for air, and V1 and V2 are the uncompressed and 
compressed pressures, and P1 is atmospheric pressure. Re-arranging to 
to find the unknown cranking pressure P2 we get the formula

  Cranking pressure = atmospheric pressure x (compression ratio)^1.4 

I tried this out with a CR or 9:1, and it predicts a cranking pressure 
of 318 psi (!!).  Working backwards from a good cranking pressure of 
185 psi (this is what Hughes engines recommends for maximum power on 
92-octane pump gas engine buildups), the effective compression ratio 
calculates out to only 6.1:1 .

So what do we conclude?  First, the actual compression process is 
neither at constant temperature, nor is it true that no heat is 
transferred to the cylinder walls and head, so in real life the 
compression process is neither isothermal nor adiabatic. This makes it 
a complicated problem to solve theoretically.  On top of that, 
pressure is bled off by leakage past the rings, and by the early 
opening of the intake valve before the piston reaches TDC.

Bottom line: there ain't no simple connection between CR and cranking 
pressure, folks.  From the point of how well your engine will run, the 
cranking pressure is actually more important than the CR.  And if you 
must have the actual CR itself, you have to measure the head, gasket, 
and piston-to-deck volumes and calculate the CR.

An aside, if your engine has the heads on, but is out of the car, you 
can actually measure the CR relatively simply. Tilt the engine so that 
one bank of sparkplug holes (say cylinders 1,3,5,7) points straight 
up, rotate the engine to BDC for cylinder #1, and use a burette to 
carefully and completely fill the area above the piston and up to the 
base of the sparkplug hole with a suitable liquid - cleaning solvent, 
light oil, kerosine, whatever, (NOT gasoline!). The volume of liquid 
you used is the combustion chamber+gasket+piston dish/dome volume, so 
the compression ratio is just

swept vol of 1 cylinder = engine CID/# of cylinders

CR = (swept vol of 1 cylinder + vol of liquid)/vol of liquid.

Obviously this assumes no bubbles of air are left behind in the head 
during the fill-up process. 

One more thing, make absolutely SURE that all the liquid is drained, 
blown out, or evaporates before the spark-plug goes back in. Otherwise 
you might hydro-lock the cylinder and bend a rod or break a piston pin 
when you try to crank the engine over later.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 18:08:43 -0500
From: "Frank upton" <fupton@c-cars.com>
Subject: RE: Car Number <cfoutput>90</cfoutput>

This a car that was list us.  It was a ground up restoration.  There is no
rust or bando in the car. Yes the motor was rebuilt.  If you are interested
in this car we can check to see if it is still available.
Thanks Frank

> -----Original Message-----
> From: c-cars@c-cars.com [mailto:c-cars@c-cars.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 4:41 PM
> To: fupton@c-cars.com
> Subject: Car Number <cfoutput>90</cfoutput>
>
>
>
>
>
> Steve Hilde
> steve_hilde@hp.com
> what else can you tell me about this car. where is it? any bondo
> or rust, hows it run? has the motor been rebuilt? is it original?
> do you have any pictures you can email? I'd appreciate as many
> details as you can provide.
>
> thanks
>
> Steve
> </body>
> </html>
>
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 18:08:48 -0500
From: "Frank upton" <fupton@c-cars.com>
Subject: RE: Car Number <cfoutput>187</cfoutput>

We will do a search for you on these cars.
Thanks Frank

> -----Original Message-----
> From: c-cars@c-cars.com [mailto:c-cars@c-cars.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 4:40 PM
> To: fupton@c-cars.com
> Subject: Car Number <cfoutput>187</cfoutput>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Ronald L Hribar
> hribar@execpc.com
> I am looking for a 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 XL 2dr HT.
> The interior exterior color is to be turquoise. The car must also 
> have a 390 or larger engine,with a 4 speed. The only exception to 
> be considered is that it could be a convertible. The car should 
> be either a 2 or 3 and the price should also reflect this. An 
> alternative to this car would be a 1957 Thunderbird, 312 with 
> 3speed overdrive. Both tops would be desired. A plus would be one 
> with a contental kit,that extended the full bumper. White would 
> be color of choice , but others would be considered. Again grade 
> od car 2 or 3 and priced according to grade
> 
>         Ronald L Hribar
>          220 Glenwood Rd.
>          Oconomowoc,Wi. 53066
>           1-414-560-9561 home phone
>            1-414-569-7204 work phone 
> </body>
> </html>
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 19:56:46 -0400
From: "person" <vbdeveloper@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: ICQ

I've got ICQ up all day, but the junk you get is not that pretty. All kinds
of solicitations. Good communicator though. Talk to people from all over the
world. Has built in chat rooms. Really great. But, I have it at work and
don't have the number. Let's ICQ ... By the way, ISP's HATE IT. Lotsa
bandwidth use.....

++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
+
+
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
VBDeveloper@worldnet.att.net

                                       =
                                           =
                                                =
==================================
'69 Olds Ninety-Eight Topless Bubba=========
====666=================999============
        666                                  999
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 11:09 AM
Subject: ICQ


>Are any of you ICQ users? I have a friend in Columbus that keeps nagging me
>to install ICQ so we can send realtime messages. So I figured I'd give it a
>shot and load it up today at lunchtime. Maybe some of us can take some Olds
>b-essing realtime. Just wondering.
>
>Omega Man
>'74 Omega S 455
>'74 Omega L_T_P..............
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 19:51:42 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: levelling system?

Use one o' those automatic levelers on my 85 Delta. Monroe was the only
brand of air adjustable shocks I could find to fit (besides $80 each GM).
The compressor can put out 90 psi, and the electronic sensor tries to
achieve +/- 3/4 inch from level (measured at the back bumper to ground). If
the air bags can move the car as much as air shocks.....why not?

drc


>I would like to add the GM levelling system to my '78 Delta 88.  Car did
not
>come with it from the factory.  However, I want to use it in conjunction
>with air bags inside the rear springs rather than use air shocks.  Is this
>possible?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 20:15:23 EDT
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Fender/Doors

I am in the process of putting my Rallye 350 back together again. I am going 
to install the fenders, doors, and hood. Is there someone out there that 
could give me some tips on what to do? So far I have the driver door and 
fender on. It doesn't seem to be aligning properly. I put the door on first, 
and then the fender, and it DOESN'T look to hot. I suppose it's like all the 
other stuff though. I would appreciate it if I could get responses on this 
because I don't want to scratch the new paint when I'm SO close to finishing 
up. The door looks good, but the fender doesn't want to align.
Thanks as always!
Jim McKeague

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 21:24:44 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Re: Restoration

Not on the list, respond to ClaireM@unipec.co.uk if you can assist. Do we
have any UK members these days?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Claire MacDonald <ClaireM@unipec.co.uk>
Subject: Re: Restoration

I have a friend with a 1970 Oldsmobile convertible cut class 7.5l.  I
was wondering if you had any information on any one who specializes in
restoring these vehicles in the UK.  I would be grateful if you could
get back to me as soon as possible my e-mail address is
ClaireM@unipec.co.uk.

Thanking you in advance

Claire

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 20:33:29 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: cranking pressure and CR, revisited (geeky, be warned!)

John,

Another thing to consider - I think you have to use the dynamic
compression ration.

Instead of CR(static) = ((Comb Chamber total vol)+(cyl vol @BDC))/

(Comb Chamber total vol)

substitue (cyl vol @IVC) for (cyl vol @BDC).

What is probably happening at low cranking speeds is the piston issimply
pumping air back out of the cylinder on its way up till the intake valve
closes.  That's why a big cam has less cranking pressure that a mild one
for the same static compression ratio.  Obviously, cam timing will affect
cranking compression too.

Dude
John Carri wrote:

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 21:27:57 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 2 Questions

Not on the list; respond to erb22@yahoo.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
 --- Olds List Admin Instructions found at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
                http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Edwin Burger <erb22@yahoo.com>

hello all.  the chrome on my rear bumper is kinda nasty looking, so i'm
thinking about painting it body color when i repaint the car.  what
prep work is required? can i use body filler on the bumper?

further:
the car is a '70 442.  any thoughts on how it would look with a painted
bumper? maybe someone has a picture of a '70 - '72 cutlass with painted
bumpers?

Also:
i'm looking for a used set of 15" moon discs (like the ones on salt
flat racers). snap on or screw in.

thanks!
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 20:31:06 -0400
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Today's Inexplicable License Plate

Speaking of license plates - I saw this one on the back of a newer body style
Mustang while sitting in the Wendy's drive through, with a very good looking
blond behind the wheel... WZISPDN
Thought that was kinda cool....

Andrew C. Green wrote:

> So I'm on my way to the train station and come up to a stop sign behind
> Illinois license plate MINE 442... on a black Mustang GT convertible. I can
> think of two or three possibilities for this:
>
> 1) Clueless driver who bought his car at night from smooth-talking salesman
> 2) Wishful thinking to impress the ladies
> 3) His Olds got stolen and this is all the insurance company would pay for
> :-)
>
> -- Andy
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 20:44:21 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Mechanical vs. hydraulic cam

Peter,
The mechanical would make less because the effective duration of the cam is
reduced by the lash required by solids.  A good reference on this is David
Vizard's book on cams and valve trains.  It's written specifically for SBC but
the theory applies.  Hat Rod did an article a few years ago on dyno tests of
cam swaps which confirmed this.

Dude

Peter Landowski wrote:

> If you have 2 cams identical to each other (spec wise). How much more power
> would a mechanical (non-roller) cam make over the hydraulic?
>
> Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 20:41:55 -0400
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Painting my car.

If it's any consilation - when I had my Buick painted a color called Metallic
Buckskin a couple of years ago, it was MUCH darker than the color I picked out
initially... but after about two weeks in the sun it lightened up a LOT!
Hopefully this will be the case with yours also.  The explaination the body 
shop
guy gave be was that there was a number on transparent tints in that paint,
which is why it lightened up so quickly...

Todd Daenzer
ICQ #21566779
'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a Jetawy and 2.73's  :-(

Chris Rivier wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I just got my car back from the body shop.  From date of accident to today
> has been three months.  I am glad to get my car back, but I am disappointed
> in the color.
>
> Original WrEck PiX @ http://www2.bladeti.com/cars
>
> It looks a lot different from the gold color that I picked and even slightly
> darker than the original paint.  From a distance it looks like a blah beige
> brown.  Disappointed, and a little pissed.  If I had known that it would
> look like this I would have had it painted a red stock color instead.
>
> It is scheduled to be buffed and polished in about two weeks.  Will it make
> any noticable difference once it is buffed and polished.  What recourse do I
> have.  I am due for final installment after the car is buffed and polished
> out.
>
> What should I expect for a $2500-3000 of body work and paint job.  I
> replaced the right front fender myself and had some straightening and done
> to the rear and left and right rear quarter panel.  90% of it was worked out
> with minimal bondo work.  Damn, it looked better in primer.
>
> Aaaargh,
>
> Chris Rivier
> Austin,TX
> '66 Delta 88   The BEAST under CONSTRUCTION.
> '88 Festiva   ZIPPY 166K Lil' Parts Hauler.
>
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1943
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