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cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1998


oldsmobile-digest        Friday, June 4 1999        Volume 01 : Number 1998



Re: determining TDC  & a  major ouchie..
Re: Points type distributor hook up
Re: 69 350
RE: Flex Fans (Electric)
RE: 68 4-4-2 with a 350
Re: safety first
Re: 425 cams
Re: Do NOT use EZ-OFF!
Re: 69 350
Re: FASTEST OLDS EVER (was Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy)
Quincy old Drive Line for Adoption>
Goo gone
Re: Straight 50 Weight Oil
Re: Points type distributor hook up
Re: general info
Re: safety first
Re: Hypothetical turbo (WAS:Re: Hypothetical Cold Air Induction System)
Re: safety first
Re: Points type distributor hook up
Re: Tranny coolers...go - or no-go
Re: safety first
Re: Do NOT use EZ-OFF!
RE: general info
Re: general info
Re: safety first
Re: safety first
Harry's U-Pull It
Re: Do NOT use EZ-OFF!
Re: safety first
Re: 69 350
looking for info.
Re: Points type distributor hook up
Re: Points type distributor hook up
Re: 69 350 
Re: saftey  first
UNBOUNCE: 1976 Cutlass "S" Factory Engineering cars
UNBOUNCE: Estate Sale - 1926 Olds
UNBOUNCE: '69 W-32
Holley ID
Re: UNBOUNCE: '69 W-32
Date:	Fri, 4 Jun 1999 13:46:38 -0600
Re: Anti lock breaks
will 68 ht windshiel fit conv.?
sweet 409, Edelbrock, 
New Clutch In
think I've been ripped off.....
Re: New Clutch In
68 442 with a 350...Thanks all

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 05:58:54 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: determining TDC  & a  major ouchie..

> A while ago someone wrote a letter to one of the car
> mags describing 
> what happened to him when he tried to find TDC by
> putting a finger 
> over the spark-plug hole and turning the engine
> over. His finger was 
> *sucked into* the spark plug hole, after which it
> jammed in there; he 
> ended up needing surgical assistance to get it out.
> 
> Now, I don't understand why there was vacuum in the
> intake cylinder 
> unless this guy had disable the valve train first
> (the intake valve 
> should have been open before the piston even began
> its downstroke!), 
> and I guess you'd have to have fairly small fingers
> for this to be a 
> risk to you, but for what it's worth, you can avoid
> the risk 
> completely by using a drinking straw or something
> similar through the 
> plug hole to probe for the top of the piston. Also
> turning the engine 
> over manually with a breaker bar is probably a
> better idea than 
> cranking it over with the starter!
===============================

Another trick that we use to use in my high school
auto shop was to take a piece of paper towel and wad
it up and plug the spark plug hole. Crank the engine
until the paper towel plug pops off then just a matter
of fine tuning it with some type of a probe.

Del
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 08:09:13 -0500
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
Subject: Re: Points type distributor hook up

The yellow wire is the resistor wire and it would thus go to the R terminal
on the solenoid, your car wont have this wire and that is no big deal
because you dont really need it, it just shunted a portion of the current
back to ground unless the points are closed it is not necessary to function.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: The Kid <weaver_kid@hotmail.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, June 04, 1999 7:13 AM
Subject: Points type distributor hook up


> List members,
> I am replacing the computer controlled distributor and carb with an old
> Points type distributor and Holley that I had laying around. Anyway, my
> Chiltons book shows a wiring diagram for a points type distributor as
> follows:
> --Wire from distributor goes to (-) side of coil
> --Two wires attach to the (+) side of coil. One (pink) goes to Ignition
and
> one (yellow)goes to starter solenoid.
>
> My question is which terminal of the solenoid (+) or (-) does the yellow
> wire connect to? The wiring diagram does not specify this.
>
> thanks, any assitance would be appreciated soon as I plan on doing this
> tomorrow.
> E-mail me directly,
> Kid Weaver
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 08:20:15 -0500
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
Subject: Re: 69 350

yes you can buy just one piston but was any other damage done to the
cylinder? the rod must have hit a couple of times at least and they tend to
do a lot of damage...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Mikeytvb@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 1999 10:46 PM
Subject: 69 350


> about how much do #5 heads bring?  i have a set i might want to sell if
the
> price is right.  they will have a 3 angle valve job soon.  that's about
it.
> the engine they came off of is from a 69 cutlass....it broke a wrist pin
and
> the motor freezed up.  is anything worth saving off the short block?  the
> intake, carb, and dist went on the donor motor.  what about pistons?  can
i
> buy just one stock piston?  it's a 4bbl engine which means it's high
> compression and the piston tops look very flat.  it would be nice to put
the
> engine back together, but i'm not sure what i'm doing yet.
>
> mikeytvb@aol.com
> 70 442 ht
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 06:53:04 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Flex Fans (Electric)

- --- zappa <zappa@microgear.net> wrote:
 Forget about putting a low cost switch on the
> fans though as they
> tend to melt and leave you without fans. Get a temp
> thermostat for the fans
> and set it to the temp you want and it works great.
==============================

Where did you find the temp switch? 

Del
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 09:25:08 -0500
From: "David Rench" <renchd@krause.com>
Subject: RE: 68 4-4-2 with a 350

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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If this does indeed turn out to be a Cutlass, you might want to verify =
that it is not a W-31, which would be more valuable than the average =
Cutlass.  Non-power front disc brakes would be one indication.  It =
should also have the ram air setup which even if removed would leave the =
inner fenders (black) with the holes in them for the ram air tube.  A =
long shot, but worth checking.  If it has disc brakes and/or the holes =
in the inner fenders, let the list know and somebody far more versed on =
these vehicles than I can give you the other verification points.

Any if its not a 4-4-2 or a W-31 I go along with the opinion that was =
expressed earlier that if it's nice and the price is right, so what?  =
Buy it and enjoy it.  Just don't resell it as a 4-4-2.

David Rench
1970 W-31

- ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01BEAE6C.2394AE00
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>If this does indeed turn out to be a Cutlass, you =
might want=20
to verify that it is not a W-31, which would be more valuable than the =
average=20
Cutlass.&nbsp; Non-power front disc brakes would be one =
indication.&nbsp; It=20
should also have the ram air setup which even if removed would leave the =
inner=20
fenders (black) with the holes in them for the ram air tube.&nbsp; A =
long shot,=20
but worth checking.&nbsp; If it has disc brakes and/or the holes in the =
inner=20
fenders, let the list know and somebody far more versed on these =
vehicles than I=20
can give you the other verification points.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Any if its not a 4-4-2 or a W-31 I go along with the =
opinion=20
that was expressed earlier that if it's nice and the price is right, so=20
what?&nbsp; Buy it and enjoy it.&nbsp; Just don't resell it as a=20
4-4-2.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>David Rench<BR>1970=20
W-31</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_002C_01BEAE6C.2394AE00--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 07:41:57 PDT
From: Andrew C.Green <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: safety first

>I would like to add some extra saftey to my 71 442.  Is it
>possible to place a more modern seat belt system in this car?

Just thinking out loud here...

There's a current shoulder belt mount in the roof, I assume. The lap belt 
mounts on the floor somewhere around the base of the B pillar (if you have 
one), or at least near the seat mount. A more modern belt system is one 
large loop, with an inertia-reel retractor (the thing that locks during 
deceleration) mounted on the floor, inside the pillar, or inside the rear 
quarterpanel behind the pillar. The loop goes up through a large eyelet 
mounted on the B pillar (if any) or the roof.

So in a perfect world, you'd attach the reel to the bottom belt mount and 
replace the upper, shoulder-belt mount with the pivoting eyelet from the 
donor car. But in a perfect world, all your bolts would line up and the new 
parts would attach with the same _number_ of bolts as the old ones. I kind 
of doubt that's going to be the case.  :-)

>I have also thought of placing two seat belt receiver heads on
>one bolt.

I'm confused; the factory does this routinely. What setup do you have right 
now?

>That way I can fasten both the lap and shoulder harness.

Okay, does your '71 have completely-separate tab and buckle assemblies for 
lap and shoulder belts? One thing you might check out is a 1972 version; it 
_might_ be a bolt-in swap. Specifically, the 1972 LeMans I had used a 
shoulder belt that clipped onto the tab for the lap belt, so you only needed 
one buckle to put them both on at once. If you don't have this already, it 
might be one improvement you could make that would bolt right in right now.

>Do you think that will place too much load on the bolt in
>the event of a crash?  Has anyone tried this before?

I don't think it would overload it; anything you can do to decelerate 
yourself before you hit the dash is a benefit.

I can also tell you that the 1972 belt system worked perfectly for me when I 
was involved in a horrible crash.

On the bright side, isn't this about the time that Karl Aune should start 
talking about retro-fitting an air bag system into Soylent Ocean Mist to go 
with that catalytic convertor he was planning?  :-)

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 09:49:40 -0500
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: Re: 425 cams

Walker wrote:

>  I am contemplating overhauling the 425 I just took out of a 66
> 99(surprise,its drilled for a pilot bushing).I am unsure of the cam I
> would use. I have 3:08 gears, will have a TH/400, and it gets driven
> everyday.Would appreciate any suggestions or similar
> experience.Thanks. John 67 CS

John,

  I had a similar setup in a '67 442(425, TH/400 w/3:08, later 3:55) and
had a stock '67 442 400 w/autop cam.  Ran strong and idled smooth below
800 rpm.  I'm putting a Toro 425 together for a stick '65 442 right now
and will either go with the original Toro cam which is slightly less
than the '67 442 cam or I'll go with a fairly radical Crower Cam I've
got lying around, but will have to buy the larger lifters for.  The
original cam lobes are perfect as are the lifters, 26,000 miles on the
original engine.  I've got a JM 16-18 in my '65 with the original 400
right now.  It is a nice, mild cam, but I'd rather use the Crower.  I
plan on using a split timing cover as I.ve gone through the BS of
changing cams and dropping the oil pan to get the seal in place while
the engine is in the car.  It royally sucks.  Also, Crane makes two cams
for the 45 degree block that I believe are offered at nice prices in
either JEGS or Summitt.  Good luck with the rebuild.


Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 09:49:59 -0500 (CDT)
From: Efton March <eftonm@crss.gar.esys.com>
Subject: Re: Do NOT use EZ-OFF!

> Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 17:55:33 EDT
> From: GregA80@aol.com
> Subject: Re: Goo Be Gone
>
> Ya know, I just heard this the other day.....Try use EZ-OFF, you know, the
> oven cleaner....It supposedly works great, and it doesn't hurt the
> paint....My uncle just bought a truck and that's what the previous owner used
> to take his company name off the doors....if you do use it, let me know how
> it works...thanks.
> ~Greg the young'n

Do NOT use EZ-OFF!  About 4 years ago our church bought a van from another
church.  Someone had the bright idea to use EZ-OFF to take the old name off of
the van (it was NOT me!).  He applied the EZ-OFF and several minutes later his
6 year old son says "Dad, is the paint supposed to be bubbling like that?".
 When he began to wipe off the EZ-OFF, the paint came off down to bare metal!
 Fortunately the van was plain white and he ran out and bought a can of white
spray paint to temporarily fix it.  Boy was his face red!

Efton March 72 S

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 09:46:34 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: 69 350

> yes you can buy just one piston but was any other damage done to the
> cylinder? the rod must have hit a couple of times at least and they tend to
> do a lot of damage...KK

Uh, excuse me, but the one piston build sounds too much like an engine 
exchange place... cmon, stock pistons are not that expensive. To me that 
would be like putting brake pads on only one side of the car. You take 
the engine apart and do all the work anyway. What is an extra $100 to do 
it right? 
The only time I would do this is when the car would not stay in my hands 
very much longer after the "rebuild".
mn 0.02, 

George

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 10:20:18 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: FASTEST OLDS EVER (was Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy)

Steve;
Vegas' never stop running, they just rust away. 
Lou
PS That's the motto where I work
> Monza's are not light. I've owned one. Dang thing weighed near 3200 lbs
with 
> a 4 banger with a 4 on the floor. I called it the bloatmobile. Was a fun 
> car, but it would burn up fuel pumps every 3000 miles...<mutters> That 
> wouldn't have been so bad if I didn't have to pull the fuel tank to get
to 
> the dang thing. I think I went through 4 of em in less than 6 months.
Ended 
> up ditching the car on the side of the road right before I came to texas 
> cause the pump died yet again.
> Steve
> 1970 Cutlass S Hardtop
> Garland, TX
> ICQ# 108901, Use "Olds list" as Request for Authorization
> 
> Favorite motivational line, seen at a Renassaince Faire: "The beatings
will 
> continue until morale is up!"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 11:18:36 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Quincy old Drive Line for Adoption>

If anyone has interest, I have a reasonably complete '86 Olds 307 with a
Th200-C bolted to it. When pulled, (yesterday) both were in good working
order. The engine ran a tad rich as referenced by much soot in the exhaust.
We also found a sizable vacuum leak due to a split line coming off an intake
port behind the carburetor. It had a mild ping around 2,500 - 3,000 rpm
believed due to this leak. The engine burned maybe 1/2 Qt. of oil during
3,000 mile changes. Both never failed me in 5 years. The car had 128,000 on
it though the engine was told to be swapped, (or rebuilt), at 80,000. This
is unconfirmed.

Yes, this is a CCC motor and if wanted the computer can be had with it. If
you want the computer, speak up quickly before I sever the leads from it.
Will consider most all offers including anything '69 Cutlass related.

I'm in mid East NY. Just South of Albany.  Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse

ICQ# 5209322
Email: gjcouse@francomm.com
Web: http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

- -------------------------------------------------------------------
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of your friends about this program as possible.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
                               -------
                             / Q  Q \
                -----0000---\/---0000-----

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 11:21:01 -0500
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: Goo gone

DON'T USE ACETONE! It removes paint. Goo gone is around $3 at wallymart.

Good for the final clean when stripping body panels. 3M emblem adhesive
remover could also be used.

Acetone is also god for removing gasket dressings. Just have to work
fast! Brakleen and carb cleaner contain acetone. So be careful.

- --
David Brown         Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
              Sneak a peek at 5.X FAQ at:
         www.inil.com/users/dlbrown/oldsfaq.htm
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
    ftp://ftp.neurobio.arizona.edu/ftp/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 10:22:30 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Straight 50 Weight Oil

50W works great except on start up, a little late getting to bearings.
Lou

- ----------
> From: Igor Todorovic <igor455@home.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Straight 50 Weight Oil
> Date: Thursday, June 03, 1999 5:29 PM
> 
> I
> > have heard that you will make 10-15 pounds more pressure than with
20W-50.
> 
> I went from 10W-30 to 20W-50 and the oil pressure went up about 5-8 psi. 
It
> runs 30 in Drive at hot idle, about 45-50 at light throttle and slow
speed
> and over 60 psi at WOT.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 10:42:19 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Points type distributor hook up

>The yellow wire is the resistor wire and it would thus go to the R terminal
>on the solenoid, your car wont have this wire and that is no big deal
>because you dont really need it, it just shunted a portion of the current
>back to ground unless the points are closed it is not necessary to
function.


It has always been my understanding that the wire from the ignition
was the only resistor wire.  The wire from the starter was to give you
straight 12V only for cranking.  Am I missing something here?

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 10:44:30 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: general info

Scott:
I am going to check out the selection and if there is anything interesting
I will buy one to see if it works OK.
Lou
- ----------
> From: OLDS44272@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: general info
>            I have not used the CD's from Autozone, but i have used CD's
from 
> Alldata. My friends shop uses them and for the most part, they are great.
 
> Granted, it is a business, so i am sure there is some major money
involved to 
> get a complete of CD's. His cd's start at 1982. So the muscle car guys 
> (1966-1972) would be out of luck. Also, the cd's will only work with a 
> computer that has Alldata's chip or some other type of decode-ing device.
I 
> have tried unsuccessfully to load his software onto my hard drive. ( i
know, 
> copyrights and stuff.)  I can use his computer at his work. This makes it

> nice when working on side-jobs at home.    Maybe if there was enough
demand, 
> Alldata and other would make cd's for older cars. I am sure it would be 
> cheaper to mass-produce cd's than a 200 page mannual.............SCOTT 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 11:57:44 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: safety first

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Andrew C.Green <acg_o@hotmail.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, June 04, 1999 10:41 AM
Subject: Re: safety first


Andy wrote(snipped)
> Okay, does your '71 have completely-separate tab and buckle assemblies for
> lap and shoulder belts? One thing you might check out is a 1972 version;
it
> _might_ be a bolt-in swap. Specifically, the 1972 LeMans I had used a
> shoulder belt that clipped onto the tab for the lap belt, so you only
needed
> one buckle to put them both on at once. If you don't have this already, it
> might be one improvement you could make that would bolt right in right
now.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -----



Hi Andy,  Thank you for the reply.  No.  the 442 did not have two receiver
heads.  My friends Riv.  is the only car that I have seen with the double
head.  I had a 72 Cutlass that I swiped the safety belts out of.  I will use
the extra set to add some safety to the 442.  The 72 parts car only had one
receiver as well.  I have also had a Chevelle with the same lack of safety.
What is this other fastening system you mentioned.  The one above with the
two belts to one buckle?  What strainge vooodoo is that?  I am very
interested in that set up.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 10:56:24 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Hypothetical turbo (WAS:Re: Hypothetical Cold Air Induction 
System)

To get the boost pressure you would want would require a huge fan and motor
assembly, don't think you could get an alternator big enough to power this
rig. Great idea but probably a tad impractical. Plus the exhaust gas is
free.
Lou

- ----------
> From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Hypothetical turbo (WAS:Re: Hypothetical Cold Air Induction
System)
> 
> Seeing this thread makes me curious then. I have
> always wondered what would happen if you went with an
> electric turbo. Say you put a variable resistor on the
> gas pedal. The harder you stromp the gas the faster
> the blower motor would spin. You would think that this
> would cure the "turbo lag" that you experience.
> Besides that, I never really did like the fact that
> you have to have hot exhaust gasses to turn the
> turbines. With the electric you could put the inlet in
> an area say like the cowl.Also, you wouldn't have to
> worry about bearing failure from the turbo when you
> turned the car off. Just a thought.
> 
> Del
> ===
> Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> rockman20@yahoo.com
> 1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
> 1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For
Sale)
> 1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
> (I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 11:01:32 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: safety first

>What is this other fastening system you mentioned.  The one above with the
>two belts to one buckle?  What strainge vooodoo is that?  I am very
>interested in that set up.
>meso@pamlico.net
>Steve


Steve,
This system may work for safety but for practicality sucks!  The shoulder
belt is fixed in length so that as your strapped in you can't reach the
radio or much else.  This is why I mentioned mounting a reel to the inside
of the car and the latch up on the roof.  This would give you the benefits
of an inertia reel without the belt just hanging there.  If your not opposed
to having two belts to buckle when you get in, this would give you the
best of all worlds.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 11:04:00 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Points type distributor hook up

Mike;
Most usually bypass the resistor for starting to get the full voltage, when
key is released to run position it goes though the resistor as you said.
then the voltage is about 9.5V. My experience only.
Lou

- ----------
> From: Mike Bloomer <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Points type distributor hook up
> It has always been my understanding that the wire from the ignition
> was the only resistor wire.  The wire from the starter was to give you
> straight 12V only for cranking.  Am I missing something here?
> 
> Mike Bloomer

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 11:58:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Re: Tranny coolers...go - or no-go

One of the things to be careful about is that the tranny lines do no
run close or touching the exhaust.  Guess what, if they do you end up
with a tranny heater not a cooler and the additional effect of increasing
your engine operating temperature... a couple of lengths of heat shield 
tubing judiciously placed does wonders... dont ask how I know this.

Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio 
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets  
  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 09:05:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: safety first

- --- Mike Bloomer <mbloomer@mindspring.com> wrote:
> Steve,
> This system may work for safety but for practicality
> sucks!  The shoulder
> belt is fixed in length so that as your strapped in
> you can't reach the
> radio or much else.  This is why I mentioned
> mounting a reel to the inside
> of the car and the latch up on the roof.  This would
> give you the benefits
> of an inertia reel without the belt just hanging
> there.  If your not opposed
> to having two belts to buckle when you get in, this
> would give you the
> best of all worlds.
===================================

I just want to chime in and say that a fixed length
shoulder harness SUCKS! My 69 Olds has the seat belt
set up like this. One lap belt that is on a reel. You
pull that over and latch it in the one latch. Then you
have to take the shoulder harness off the clips on the
roof and bring that down and latch it in the second
latch. Talk about annoying for one and for two, like
Mike said, you can't reach a damn thing with it on!

Del
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 11:22:25 CDT
From: Steve Traynor <dartster@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Do NOT use EZ-OFF!

Do NOT use EZ-OFF!  About 4 years ago our church bought a van from another
church.  Someone had the bright idea to use EZ-OFF to take the old name off 
of
the van (it was NOT me!).  He applied the EZ-OFF and several minutes later 
his
6 year old son says "Dad, is the paint supposed to be bubbling like that?".
  When he began to wipe off the EZ-OFF, the paint came off down to bare 
metal!
  Fortunately the van was plain white and he ran out and bought a can of 
white
spray paint to temporarily fix it.  Boy was his face red!

Efton March 72 S
- ----------------
Sounds like a good method for removing paint that's cheap!




Steve
1970 Cutlass S Hardtop
Garland, TX
ICQ# 108901, Use "Olds list" as Request for Authorization

Favorite motivational line, seen at a Renassaince Faire: "The beatings will 
continue until morale is up!"




_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 12:19:58 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: general info

I have used the Alldata CDs and they work great. They are not as good as
having the Factory Service Manual. I brought my first one from them direct
and the last one from Autozone. They have a web site at:
http://www.alldata.com/  They have a special right now for $24.95 for free
TSB's and Recalls. You have to order it from them to get the free offer. If
you get the one at Autozone (19.95)  you have to buy the TSB's (9.95).

Each CD contains several models and years. The price of the CD allows you to
unlock one year/model car. When you install the CD you will connect to their
on-line site and select which car to unlock. They will provide the code to
do this. There is a lot of information on many systems and how they work on
your car.

You can look up what TSB's apply to you car on their site, but you can't
read the TSB. 

Bobby
70 442 Escape Back to the..... Past

	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Lou Biggs [SMTP:lbiggs@intertek.net]
	Sent:	Friday, June 04, 1999 11:45 AM
	To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	Subject:	Re: general info

	Scott:
	I am going to check out the selection and if there is anything
interesting
	I will buy one to see if it works OK.
	Lou
	----------
	> From: OLDS44272@aol.com
	> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
	> Subject: Re: general info
	>            I have not used the CD's from Autozone, but i have used
CD's
	from 
	> Alldata. My friends shop uses them and for the most part, they are
great.
	 
	> Granted, it is a business, so i am sure there is some major money
	involved to 
	> get a complete of CD's. His cd's start at 1982. So the muscle car
guys 
	> (1966-1972) would be out of luck. Also, the cd's will only work
with a 
	> computer that has Alldata's chip or some other type of decode-ing
device.
	I 
	> have tried unsuccessfully to load his software onto my hard drive.
( i
	know, 
	> copyrights and stuff.)  I can use his computer at his work. This
makes it

	> nice when working on side-jobs at home.    Maybe if there was
enough
	demand, 
	> Alldata and other would make cd's for older cars. I am sure it
would be 
	> cheaper to mass-produce cd's than a 200 page
mannual.............SCOTT 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 11:59:47 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: general info

Bobby;
Thanks for the info.
Lou

- ----------
> From: Etzel, Bobby <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: general info
> Date: Friday, June 04, 1999 11:19 AM
> 
> I have used the Alldata CDs and they work great. They are not as good as
> having the Factory Service Manual. I brought my first one from them
direct
> and the last one from Autozone. They have a web site at:
> http://www.alldata.com/  They have a special right now for $24.95 for
free
> TSB's and Recalls. You have to order it from them to get the free offer.
If
> you get the one at Autozone (19.95)  you have to buy the TSB's (9.95).
> 
> Each CD contains several models and years. The price of the CD allows you
to
> unlock one year/model car. When you install the CD you will connect to
their
> on-line site and select which car to unlock. They will provide the code
to
> do this. There is a lot of information on many systems and how they work
on
> your car.
> 
> You can look up what TSB's apply to you car on their site, but you can't
> read the TSB. 
> 
> Bobby

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 10:02:28 PDT
From: Andrew C.Green <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: safety first

>I just want to chime in and say that a fixed length
>shoulder harness SUCKS! My 69 Olds has the seat belt
>set up like this. [...] Talk about annoying for one
>and for two, like Mike said, you can't reach a damn
>thing with it on!

Right, I know. It's not exactly fixed-length (the early ones were; the later 
ones by '72 were adjustable when GM went from fixed-belts/adjustable-buckles 
to retractable-belts/fixed-buckles). It's also true that you can't reach 
over very far with the shoulder belt on. The only point I was trying to make 
was that there was this one later design where the shoulder belt clipped on 
to the tab for the seat belt, meaning that you only needed to snap on one 
buckle instead of two, so that would be somewhat more convenient than what 
he has now. I recall seeing this on some '71 Ch*vies, and as I said, our '72 
LeMans had it as well.

I think there's a good chance that this '72 setup would bolt right in to the 
'71 442 today, and he could immediately enjoy having to buckle only one belt 
instead of two each time he gets in. The other stuff with later-year 
inertia-belt retractors and so on would take a lot more work and creativity 
to install. That's all I'm saying.

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 14:03:32 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: safety first

On Fri, 4 Jun 1999, steve harris wrote:
> What is this other fastening system you mentioned.  The one above with the
> two belts to one buckle?  What strainge vooodoo is that?  I am very
> interested in that set up.

I remember this (vaguely)... the shoulder belt didn't have the usual male
buckle, but a connector that let it hook into the lap belt that (IIRC) had
a different end on it than the usual. I dunno if it was adjustable for
length or not...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 09:53:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Larry <kajrav@rocketmail.com>
Subject: Harry's U-Pull It

     Wanted to let the list know that Harry's has a web site now.  The
URL is  www.wegotused.com  The home page has a view of the yard.

Larry




_________________________________________________________
DO YOU YAHOO!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 14:01:08 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Do NOT use EZ-OFF!

In a message dated 6/4/99 9:52:01 AM EST, eftonm@crss.gar.esys.com writes:

<< He applied the EZ-OFF and several minutes later his
 6 year old son says "Dad, is the paint supposed to be bubbling like that?". 
>>

Sounds like the boy discovered a new product. EZ-OFF PAINT REMOVER! 
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 10:16:12 PDT
From: <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: safety first

>I remember this (vaguely)... the shoulder belt didn't have the usual
>male buckle, but a connector that let it hook into the lap belt that
>(IIRC) had a different end on it than the usual. I dunno if it was
>adjustable for length or not...

The shoulder strap ended in a tab that had a pivot riveted on to it. This 
snapped into a keyhole-shaped slot on the tab of the lap belt, so that it 
would swivel around as necessary. You could use the lap belt with or without 
the shoulder belt clipped on to it; obviously most people didn't use the 
shoulder belt. Heck, back then most people didn't use the lap belt, either.  
:-}

The shoulder belt was adjustable for length, with the excess doubled back 
and ending in a plastic loop that slid up and down the belt. When not in 
use, it was folded over and clipped into a plastic holder in the headliner, 
with another keyhole slot up there to hold the tab by its pivot bolt to keep 
it from flopping around.

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com


------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 13:24:35 EDT
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69 350

In a message dated 6/4/99 11:07:25 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu writes:

<< 
 > yes you can buy just one piston but was any other damage done to the
 > cylinder? the rod must have hit a couple of times at least and they tend to
 > do a lot of damage...KK
 
 Uh, excuse me, but the one piston build sounds too much like an engine 
 exchange place... cmon, stock pistons are not that expensive. To me that 
 would be like putting brake pads on only one side of the car. You take 
 the engine apart and do all the work anyway. What is an extra $100 to do 
 it right? 
 The only time I would do this is when the car would not stay in my hands 
 very much longer after the "rebuild".
 mn 0.02, 
 
 George
  >>
george, i could be wrong here but i think he said it was a L-74 eng. which 
means its the flat top (10.25 to1 )  piston.  if thats the case those pistons 
could be worth hanging on to.  you can buy new forged pistons, but the cast 
in that comp. ratio are no longer available. personally i like to go with 
forged pistons, but for a low budget motor those would be ok.  steven, 
w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 13:27:33 -0400
From: "oakes" <oakes@worldaxes.com>
Subject: looking for info.

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BEAE8E.0122CEC0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have just come across a 1926 Olds 4dr. that has been in a barn since =
1940.  This car is part of a estate that is being sold. The car is all =
there but most likely is restorable. Has serial # and engine # on =
original plat below the front seat passenger side. There is a complete =
extra motor w/trans. The car belongs to the son of a 93 year old man, =
who told me it was his fathers car and had not been moved since late =
1940. If any one has any interest in this unit please reply via e-mail.. =
oakes@worldaxes.com

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BEAE8E.0122CEC0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have just come across a 1926 Olds =
4dr. that=20
has been in a barn since 1940.&nbsp; This car is part of a estate that =
is being=20
sold. The car is all there but most likely is restorable. Has serial # =
and=20
engine # on original plat below the front seat passenger side. There is =
a=20
complete extra motor w/trans. The car belongs to the son of a 93 year =
old man,=20
who told me it was his fathers car and had not been moved since late =
1940. If=20
any one has any interest in this unit please reply via e-mail.. <A=20
href=3D"mailto:oakes@worldaxes.com">oakes@worldaxes.com</A></FONT></DIV><=
/BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BEAE8E.0122CEC0--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 14:14:58 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Points type distributor hook up

Mike Bloomer wrote:

> It has always been my understanding that the wire from the ignition
> was the only resistor wire.  The wire from the starter was to give you
> straight 12V only for cranking.  Am I missing something here?

Mike,

What you have said is exactly what is indicated in my '71 Olds Service manual

- --
Thomas P. Smith
  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/Q-Jet/
                  dual exhaust/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 14:26:54 EDT
From: The Kid <weaver_kid@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Points type distributor hook up

Thomas,
Does your service manual tell what terminal of the soleniod the yellow wire 
goes too??? So far I've got one "not needed" response and then this, which 
it correct? As I stated, my 70-72 wiring diagram shows distributor to (-) 
coil and two wires from (+) coil. One to ignition and one to starter 
solenoid but doesn't specify which side. Please help.
thanks
Kid Weaver


Mike Bloomer wrote:

 > It has always been my understanding that the wire from the ignition
 > was the only resistor wire.  The wire from the starter was to give you
 > straight 12V only for cranking.  Am I missing something here?

Thomas P. Smith Wrote:
Mike,

What you have said is exactly what is indicated in my '71 Olds Service 
manual

- --
Thomas P. Smith



_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 13:33:54 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: 69 350 

Sorry that I did not save the original post but I remember that it were 
shallow dished, not flat top pistons. Don't know if they were forged?
I built my 350 with shallow dished pistons and they were very 
affordable... 

Regards, George

- ----------------------------------------------------------

'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/8004/Cutlass.html
- ----------------------------------------------------------

On Fri, 4 Jun 1999 W30442CS@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 6/4/99 11:07:25 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
> cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu writes:
> 
> << 
>  > yes you can buy just one piston but was any other damage done to the
>  > cylinder? the rod must have hit a couple of times at least and they tend 
to
>  > do a lot of damage...KK
>  
>  Uh, excuse me, but the one piston build sounds too much like an engine 
>  exchange place... cmon, stock pistons are not that expensive. To me that 
>  would be like putting brake pads on only one side of the car. You take 
>  the engine apart and do all the work anyway. What is an extra $100 to do 
>  it right? 
>  The only time I would do this is when the car would not stay in my hands 
>  very much longer after the "rebuild".
>  mn 0.02, 
>  
>  George
>   >>
> george, i could be wrong here but i think he said it was a L-74 eng. which 
> means its the flat top (10.25 to1 )  piston.  if thats the case those 
pistons 
> could be worth hanging on to.  you can buy new forged pistons, but the cast 
> in that comp. ratio are no longer available. personally i like to go with 
> forged pistons, but for a low budget motor those would be ok.  steven, 
> w30442cs@aol.com
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 14:52:32 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: saftey  first

In a message dated 6/4/99 4:19:47 AM Pacific Daylight Time, meso@pamlico.net 
writes:

<< I was talking with a friend of mine last night.  He has a 1970 Riviera that
 I hope to make my own real soon.  The Riv has two reveiver heads.  One for
 the lap belt and one for the shoulder harness.  He says it is a factory
 thing.  I have never seen another car with this set up.  I think I will go
 with that same set up as well.  As was noted in another posting I don't want
 the belt hanging down from the roof of the car.  This would be the case if I
 used a set up from a newer car.
 meso@pamlico.net
 Steve >>

	I really haven't been following this thread closely, but what about 
the reinforced sections they use to secure the seat belt bolts? I assume the 
ceiling also must use them, and you might be likely to pull the assembly off 
in a wreck if they aren't reinforced. If this has already been mentioned or 
taken care of, sorry.  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 16:12:52 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 1976 Cutlass "S" Factory Engineering cars

Not on the list, respond to Shosfun@aol.com

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Shosfun@aol.com
Subject: 1976 Cutlass "S" Factory Engineering cars

	I posted a note about a 76 Cutlass "s" but I forgot a few details so 
I will make a more complete list. I am looking for information on  cars that 
were "Factory Engineering" cars built in 76. Mine was Silver with grey flames 
on the hood and trunk, with double pinstiping on th sides and around the 
mirrors.
	The interior was black buckets with a silver stripe down the middle 
of all four seating areas. The dash and doors had brushed or turned aluminum 
trim. Other options included (this is from memory)
455 4bbl
auto w/ console shift
tilt
cruise
power windows and locks
trunk release
ralleye wheels
disk brakes (in front for sure)
The car was repainted in 78 due to the 7 or 8 coats of paint for car shows 
cracked (showed chicken tracks)	. Oldsmobile told me that this was 
typical of 
a factory engineereing car. They finally paid for the repaint but would not 
pay for the flames and pinstriping to be redone. I sold the car to a young 
girl in the Appleton/Oshkosh area around 1980. If anyone knows of this car or 
one similar to it, please e-mail at shosfun @aol.com or call Kevin at 
319-557-8531.  

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 16:16:14 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Estate Sale - 1926 Olds

Not on the list, respond to oakes@worldaxes.com

An interesting opportunity....

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"oakes" <oakes@worldaxes.com>
Subject: looking for info.

I have just come across a 1926 Olds 4dr. that has been in a barn since =
1940.  This car is part of a estate that is being sold. The car is all =
there but most likely is restorable. Has serial # and engine # on =
original plat below the front seat passenger side. There is a complete =
extra motor w/trans. The car belongs to the son of a 93 year old man, =
who told me it was his fathers car and had not been moved since late =
1940. If any one has any interest in this unit please reply via e-mail.. =
oakes@worldaxes.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 16:17:27 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '69 W-32

Not on the list, respond to candace@gibralter.net

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Candace Burns" <candace@gibralter.net>
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I just got a 1969 442 and it has W-32 on the fenders. What exactly does =
this mean?  ( I need many parts)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 14:31:45 -0500 (EST)
From: hurst455@webtv.net (Corey Putnam)
Subject: Holley ID

  Could someone track down this Holley so I know what it is. I know its
an old style one.

12R-10656B, on the driver side of carb

R84017 and 0942 in the front of carb

Thanks 

Corey Putnam
75 H/O W-30(down for awhile)
87 Regal w/Olds 455(Mama`s ride)
H/OCA #0915A
OCC #0208
OCA #031264
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 15:48:26 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: '69 W-32

If it is a legitimate, it means you have a rare car, only 272 produced
according to Olds 442 and W Machine Restoration Guide. Should look like a
W-30 except with a milder cam.  Hell of a find if it is real.

Dude

Greg Beaulieu wrote:

> Not on the list, respond to candace@gibralter.net
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>    --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
>              &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From:   "Candace Burns" <candace@gibralter.net>
> Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
>
> I just got a 1969 442 and it has W-32 on the fenders. What exactly does =
> this mean?  ( I need many parts)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 13:46:38 -0600
From: "jackie fitzsimmons" <jfitz@cableestevan.com>
Subject: Date:	Fri, 4 Jun 1999 13:46:38 -0600

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BEAE90.AB5D61A0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi..... I am looking for parts for my 74 Delta Convertible... What I =
need is the two cables for the roof and the transmission for the roof.. =
If you have these , please let me know the price of each, if not, could =
you please let me know where they can be purchased.  Thanks for your =
time.   Jack

- ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BEAE90.AB5D61A0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.2106.6"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Hi..... I am looking for parts for =
my 74 Delta=20
Convertible... What I need is the two cables for the roof and the =
transmission=20
for the roof.. If you have these , please let me know the price of each, =
if not,=20
could you please let me know where they can be purchased.&nbsp; Thanks =
for your=20
time.&nbsp;&nbsp; Jack</FONT></DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BEAE90.AB5D61A0--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 15:57:38 -0400
From: Gene Gatti <jerseydevil@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Anti lock breaks

Hi Tim,
   Ah, that's an easy one! Just don't drive it in the rain :-)
Sorry, I couldn't resist,
Gene

At 01:44 PM 6/3/99 -0600, you wrote:
>I'm new to this list and have recently bought a  95 Cutlass Ciera.  It has 
>antilock brakes.  Almost from day one, whenever the wheels get wet the 
>anti-lock break light comes on and stays on.  When they dry out, I can turn 
>my engine off and the light will not come on again until it gets wet again. 
> In doing some research on the web, I found that it has been a trouble spot 
>for this car, but I found no solutions.  I was wondering if anyone on this 
>list has found a solution that doesn't involve a couple thousand dollars of 
>repair.
>Tim Roden
>95 Cutlass Ciera
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 15:29:06 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: will 68 ht windshiel fit conv.?

Hi Listers!

I was wondering if a windshield from a coupe cutlass will fit my 
convertible. 

Anybody knows how expensive the shipping for a piece of glass this big 
may be?

TIA, George

- ----------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. (windshield a little scratchy...) 
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/8004/Cutlass.html
- ----------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 15:53:35 -0500
From: "Ian M. C. Dixon" <iand@sbrc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: sweet 409, Edelbrock, 

Thanks to all for responding to my Q-jet questions on my 409.  All 
that I changed in this Q-jet was the 72 to a 73 jet and the base 
gasket, which was not sealing well.  The new engine now runs 
perfectly i.e., cooler, *very* strong off-idle, and the plugs are 
burning correctly (color-wise).  Idle is fairly smooth and the exh 
note is niiiiiice.

Compared to the original 307 (which I'll keep), this plant is 
massive!!!  It chucks the Toro around pretty good.  My only problem 
now is avoiding the premature death of the TH325 4L (background 
maniacal laughter).  Methinks a 10,000 GVW trans cooler project 
is next. 

Q: I've heard controversial discussions about the value of the power 
advantage with the low-end Edelbrock Olds SB aluminum manifold. 
 Although this thread has likely been beaten to hammered, what is 
the HP/torque gain I could expect with this bolt-on?  Is it worth it?  
The iron intake I'm running on the 409 is fine sans heat rise tubes 
(blocked up flush to bases of planes), but I wonder....

Best Regards,

Ian
Winnipeg, Canada

82 Toro, 409 Olds power (#3A 350 heads fly-cut to accept 403's 
2.0" int valves, and drilled to match 403 water jacket design) with 
8.8:1 CR, duals, dark blue with grey leather interior.  Non-computer 
Q-jet from 1985 Z-28 Ch*vy. No A.I.R. system, no external vacuum 
pump. R12 air. 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 15:56:37 -0500
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: New Clutch In

  I wanted to wait until I installed the 425 I've got in pieces now, but
my pilot bearing thought otherwise.  Last week I pulled the trans, had
the flywheel resurfaced, installed a new pilot bushing(it's coming out
in 500 miles, I'm not spending $20 on a bearing..pulling the old one was
a royal mother), installed a new CenterForce Dual Friction and throwout
bearing and got the assembly back in. Took me 2 s
Saturdays and part of a Sunday..why?...KIDS!!!  In the old days, I'd get
out there at 7AM and work until 9PM...Now I get outside at 11AM and have
to spell my wife at 3PM..Oh well, at least it's back together.

For everyone who was wondering what the CenterForce Dual Friction is
like in terms of clutch pressue...it is almost the same as the stock
unit.  BTW the stock unit had its damper springs rubbing against the
flywheel bolts(I had new ones from Dave Smith Engineering anyway).  I
have not and will not be revving it up and feathering it out as the
clutch will be broken it around the time the engine comes out.  Besides,
I'd like to not spin a bearing on a 112,000 mile original engine.
However, it catches nice and positive.  It is definitely not as harcsh
as a three finger Long style in clutch pedal pressure and catching.

Have a good Driving Experience Weekend..I know I will

Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 14:50 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: think I've been ripped off.....

I'm in the middle of my first Internet purchase, and I think I've been 
had. Another Olds listee posted that he had some headers for sale, I 
sent him the money two weeks ago, now he won't reply to my emails and 
I haven't received the headers. It's always possible that the guy is 
sick or his computer broke down or something, but I don't have a very 
good feeling about this. If the seller is reading this, and there's an 
explanation, I'd appreciate an email message from you. 

I'm going to wait a week, if I haven't received the headers nor heard 
from the seller by then I will post the sellers name and the mailing 
address he gave me on this list, so that no one else gets cheated out 
of their money.

I paid by postal money order, sent certified mail with a return 
receipt, so I know the guy got my money. Do I have any legal recourse 
through the post office? This should come under mail fraud, right?

Any listees live near Meridan, CT?  If anyone does, and might be 
willing to pay a visit to the seller, please reply to me privately.

Have a nice weekend, all.

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme  (was supposed to get headers soon, but may not)
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 4 Jun 1999 18:06:44 -0400 (EDT)
From: Jim-Bow@webtv.net (James M)
Subject: Re: New Clutch In

I was wondering if the bearing you were talking about is the pilot
bearing, you said you had a hard time getting it out. Easiest way to get
out pilot bearing is to pack grease behind bearing, take old head gear
or clutch lining tool,insert in polit bearing, tap with palm of hand, or
tap on tool with hammer. Bearing will pop out. Thats how i get them out
all the time.

Jim-Bow   73 Omega

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 18:16:29 -0700
From: chris <chris-aw@IntNet.net>
Subject: 68 442 with a 350...Thanks all

 Thanks to all those that replied to my problem below.  Will be talking
to the guys this weekend and will let you know what transpires.  The
vin# they provided me indicates it is in fact a 68 442 as per OldsFaq on
442.com .  One question thou, I have a "for sure" 68 400 engine in my
garage and I CAN NOT find the "machined vertical pad on the drivers side
front" of the block.. Can someone please tell me exactly where to look??
I've crawled all over this engine and cannot find it.
Thanks again,    Chris

______

I'm looking into buying a 68 442 however the engine is a 350 instead of
a 400. All my information says the 68 442's came only with a 400. They
say they have talked to the original owner  and he says thats the way he

ordered it, a (turnpike cruiser maybe) 2-bbl 350.  If thats the case,
should the oil fill tube match the last 6 digits of the vin# and is it
possible for these numbers to not match and still be the original
engine? How do I confirm this?  Casting # is 395558_2    is this a 350
number? The 400's has the  "C"  heads while this 350 are head castings
of  "5" ? Does this sound right? In this unique case, how do you price
this car?  As another note, the car does not have power breaks.  I have
absoluty no information on the 350 so any help would be apprecieated.
Please email me at:   chris-aw@intnet.net
Thanks

Chris

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1998
*********************************

