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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1991


oldsmobile-digest       Wednesday, June 2 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1991



Indy
Good Olds day (how to draw a crowd)
Re: 200r4
Re:  DROPPING MOTORS (WAS Re: 600 mile engine photos)
Re: very confused
Re: 160 deg. VS. 180 deg
Re: Budget Buildup 455 update
Re: Flex Fans (Electric)
Re: Good Olds day (how to draw a crowd)
Re: Budget Buildup 455 update
transmission decoding
Re: Are you interested in a 1966 f-85 2drht parts car
Re: transmission decoding
Re: Good Olds day (how to draw a crowd)
Re: Budget Buildup 455 update
Re: Headers (Do or Dont)
Fw: Timing problem
Re: 'Starflite' emblem
RE: Olds Power Indy.
bolt size?
RE: bolt size?
Re: Headers, Yet another Question (from a different guy)
Re: Convertible top question
Better Olds day
Re: Weekend fun
Re: Fake W30 Opinions
Headers (Do or Dont)
Re: Budget Buildup 455 update
Re: Memorial Day Fun
Re: Memorial Day Fun
8 track player????
posi question
Re: posi question
Re: posi question
Re: posi question
Re: posi question
Re: posi question
Super Stock I wheels.
Snake oils and other engine voodoos
Help!
Re: Flex Fans (Electric)
Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos
Raising engine
RE: very confused
Re: Raising engine
Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos
Re: Good Olds day (how to draw a crowd)
Re: Flex Fans (Electric)
Re: Raising engine
"Old"  Oldsmobile Advertising Campaign???
Re: Flex Fans (Electric)
Re: Flex Fans (Electric)
cam ID 
Re: "Old" Oldsmobile Advertising Campaign???
Re: "Old"  Oldsmobile Advertising Campaign???
Autotrader URL?
Re: "Old" Oldsmobile Advertising Campaign???
Re: Autotrader URL?
Re: Super Stock I wheels.
Re: "Old" Oldsmobile Advertising Campaign???
Re: Autotrader URL?
Re: Autotrader URL?
RE: Flex Fans (Electric)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 15:12:53 -0700 
From: "Mountney, Scott" <scott.mountney@attws.com>
Subject: Indy

30 of 33 drivers at Indy had Oldsmopower under the hood, (motors are custom
built from Oldsmobile racing grade parts to Indy specs) so odds were that
the winner would have Oldsmopower.    The Aurora engine has dominated IRL
since its debut.

Dont think for a second I didn't send this to every ford and Chevy driver I
know    :)



http://speednet.starnews.com/speednet/irl/500/99_qualgrid.html
  
 
http://www.goracing.com/indy500/News/1053063176.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 18:20:04 -0400
From: "Ken" <olds442@en.com>
Subject: Good Olds day (how to draw a crowd)

I finally fired my fresh motor up.  Where I live the houses are right on top
of eachother.  The 1 7/8" open headers were abit loud.  All the neighbors
were out on the tree lawns what with all the noise and the smoke rolling out
of my garage.  Glad no one called the cops.. I had a whole plan for breaking
the motor in.  Once the motor fired up it all went out the window.  Motor
stalled after 5 minutes of 2000 rpm operation.  I forgot to tighten the
distributor down and it vibrated out of time..  Fired it back up and
tightened the hold down clamp.  Ran at 2000 rpm for another 5 minutes or so.
Checked the temp and it was getting up there around 220.  Realized I didn't
top off the radiator and put the cap back on so I quickly filled the
radiator and put the cap on.  Let the garden hose spray a mist on the
radiator from then on.  Temp stablized at around 200.  Oil temp was around
210.  Ran for a total of 20 minutes at 1800-2200rpm. Oil pressure was 60psi
@ 2000 on start up and after the 20 minute break in was down to 40psi @
1800.  Once break in was done I brought the idle down to normal, could only
get it to idle at 1200 or so.  Realized I didn't plug the holes where the
lines go into the nitrous plate so I had a massive vaccum leak.  Couldn't
resist poping afew revs before I shut her down.  Very stout.  Valve covers
leaked quite abit.. no matter, have to take em off to put the inner valve
springs back in and re adjust valve lash.  Cant drive this car on the street
so I figure afew passes down the track with a 4k rev limit and then she'll
be ready to get thrashed abit..

Ken

p.s. anyone see the article in the new hot rod.  Says the quickest normally
aspirated 3600lb car is an Olds! hehe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 18:48:20 -0400
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: Re: 200r4

Kevin, 

Greetings and salutations!

Good luck with the 200R4 trans.  I like mine a lot more than I liked the
200C.  I must say however that especially since this is from a donor
car, no matter how many or how few miles the trans has, be sure that the
shop replaces the Torque Converter Control Solenoid while the pan is
off.  It really isn't that hard to change with the pan on and the trans
in the car but it sure is a lot messier.  The part is only around $40
and it will go bad at the drop of a hat.  Yours may not be bad but it's
just one of those "mightaswells", sort of like replacing the oil pump
when the oil pan is off.


Brian.

"K. Grant" wrote:
> 
> I went out on Sunday and picked up a 200R4 Trans I have dropped it off at
> the Trans shop today and will be dropping the car off on Thursday. So after
> many emails I have made the plunge and went and picked up a 200R4. The unit
> is out of an 87 442 I am planning on going with a 2600 stall with shift kit
> I am hoping to get the car back Thursday of next week. I will let you know
> how the project progresses.
> 
> Kevin Grant
> 80 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 16:12:38 -0700 
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re:  DROPPING MOTORS (WAS Re: 600 mile engine photos)

>Date: Fri, 28 May 1999 12:21:46 -0400
>From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
>Subject: DROPPING MOTORS (WAS Re: 600 mile engine photos)

>(SNIP)

>>  Like he said, probably dropped.  It a shame that
>>some ASS would do something to such a nice motor.



>So how many of you guys have ever dropped an engine on the floor?
>I'll be the first to admit it. I'm an ASS. I knocked over a chevy 454 short

>block and took a chunk out of the garage floor. A couple years later I
dropped
>my completed 350 Nova motor on the floor and bent the valve cover wing
>bolts and
>one of the valve covers. In neither case did any internal damage happen
>though. 
>Damn 3 wheeled engine stands. I made that baby into a 4 wheeler and braced
>the hell out of it before I put my 455 rocket on it. Hey Lou, I welded the
>sh*t out of that thing! Now she rolls and turns like a dream and is much,
>much more
>stable.

>Omega Man

I've never dropped an engine on the ground, but you'll like this one!  My
first engine rebuild was a 350 from my 1974 Chevy Blazer I bought when I was
15.  I worked on the truck outside, using an I-Beam chained between 2 oak
trees.  Well I got the engine removed OK, and when I was lowering the engine
(with a come-along) I accidentally held up the safety catch, and BAM! the
engine went crashing into the wheel barrow about 3 feet below it.  Opps,
ah.. Dad I have something to tell you.... <VBG>


Steve Reed
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 19:24:46 -0400
From: "Mark Thurman" <Thurman@kvnet.org>
Subject: Re: very confused

<<original message>>

From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: very Confused.

<snip>There were 4 "Extra Cost" paint colors, #38 Aegean Aqua, #51 Sebring
Yellow, #53 Nugget Gold and #73 Rallye Red.  I guess all of these were
marked - - on the data plate, but don't know for sure.  Aqua and Gold
were available on all models, Yellow and Red were available only on the
intermediate models.<snip>

FWIW - my 1970 Cutlass Supreme "Babe", who is serious danger of moving from
the "restore one day" category to the "parts car now" category, has the #51
(Sebring Yellow) paint code on the cowl tag (actually has 51A - the vinyl
top is now black so I guess it has been changed).  What I find interesting
is that the cowl tag has a "G" factory code (for Framingham, Mass) instead
of "FRA" as I have seen in most literature (this does match the VIN #).
Trim code is 977 with a build code of 06A.

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 17:33:51 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 160 deg. VS. 180 deg

> Not my '70. I had a 160 in it and it ran right at 160 all the time. Put a
> 195 in it now it runs from 200-215 (in traffic). Got a 180 laying on the
> shelf I'll put in this weekend. Hopefully it will be the happy medium.
> Another thing is, it all depends on how efficient your cooling system is
> too. Plugged up too small radiator, no shroud with a $20 flex fan and
> you're gonna run warm.


It a brand new, large rad with a stock fan and shroud.  Ir runs "fine" but I
would like it to run a little cooler when staging.  I had a fuel boil
problem for a while and then when I changed the intake gaskets, I left the
heat crossover plugged.  That solved the fuel boil problem which firmly lets
be to believe that the real problem has been heat.  It can jump upto 200 +
in the staging lanes, and that is too hot for me.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 17:39:17 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Budget Buildup 455 update

> the cam is a lunati Bracketmaster 2 496/520 224/234@.050 very wicked idle
> the power band is 2500 - 5500 but will perform testing as soon as it is
> broken in this will also be a synthetic only engine just for the sake of
> saving the dinosaurs, when it is all finished I will try to post photos of
> the engine for you guys to view. nice looking plant...KK

What kind of valvetrain are you running, what stall and what do you have
idle set at.  Thanks.  I have a Lunati cam in my 455, but the much smaller
one.  .448/.472 lift, 204/214 duration and no headers.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 17:41:51 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Flex Fans (Electric)

I'm actually
> thinking about losing the fan completely and going
> electric. But that's just me! :-)

I was thinking about that myself.  I could then let the car sit shut off
while the fan still runs to cool the rad.  That would reduce my cool down
time PLUS it will increase HP and it will install a manual shut-off switch
for it so that I can control it when I want to.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 19:30:51 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Good Olds day (how to draw a crowd)

Are you running a hydraulic cam? If so then the cam break in should be 20
minutes at 2500-2800 RPM. Also on a new motor it is not a good idea to
(rev) the motor, especially without a load on the motor. What type of cam
are you running (spec wise)?
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Ken <olds442@en.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Good Olds day (how to draw a crowd)
> Date: Tuesday, June 01, 1999 5:20 PM
> 
> I finally fired my fresh motor up.  Where I live the houses are right on
top
> of eachother.  The 1 7/8" open headers were abit loud.  All the neighbors
> were out on the tree lawns what with all the noise and the smoke rolling
out
> of my garage.  Glad no one called the cops.. I had a whole plan for
breaking
> the motor in.  Once the motor fired up it all went out the window.  Motor
> stalled after 5 minutes of 2000 rpm operation.  I forgot to tighten the
> distributor down and it vibrated out of time..  Fired it back up and
> tightened the hold down clamp.  Ran at 2000 rpm for another 5 minutes or
so.
> Checked the temp and it was getting up there around 220.  Realized I
didn't
> top off the radiator and put the cap back on so I quickly filled the
> radiator and put the cap on.  Let the garden hose spray a mist on the
> radiator from then on.  Temp stablized at around 200.  Oil temp was
around
> 210.  Ran for a total of 20 minutes at 1800-2200rpm. Oil pressure was
60psi
> @ 2000 on start up and after the 20 minute break in was down to 40psi @
> 1800.  Once break in was done I brought the idle down to normal, could
only
> get it to idle at 1200 or so.  Realized I didn't plug the holes where the
> lines go into the nitrous plate so I had a massive vaccum leak.  Couldn't
> resist poping afew revs before I shut her down.  Very stout.  Valve
covers
> leaked quite abit.. no matter, have to take em off to put the inner valve
> springs back in and re adjust valve lash.  Cant drive this car on the
street
> so I figure afew passes down the track with a 4k rev limit and then
she'll
> be ready to get thrashed abit..
> 
> Ken
> 
> p.s. anyone see the article in the new hot rod.  Says the quickest
normally
> aspirated 3600lb car is an Olds! hehe
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 19:22:03 -0500
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
Subject: Re: Budget Buildup 455 update

well in keeping with the budget concept I retained the stock type
arrangement, with heavy crane springs and stamped rockers the heads are
milled .020 and with the valve job shimming was necessary but that was easy
to get the lifter preload back under .060" but she will get adjustable type
during another installment when we check out the gains acheived by porting
and polishing the heads, the milling was done to bring the compression up to
9.0:1 with the stock pistons it was an 8.5:1 455 makes good power and torque
we dont have a dyno in the area yet but when we get one will run it on the
dyno and see how it compares with Desktop Dyno...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Igor Todorovic <igor455@home.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 1999 6:39 PM
Subject: Re: Budget Buildup 455 update


>
> > the cam is a lunati Bracketmaster 2 496/520 224/234@.050 very wicked
idle
> > the power band is 2500 - 5500 but will perform testing as soon as it is
> > broken in this will also be a synthetic only engine just for the sake of
> > saving the dinosaurs, when it is all finished I will try to post photos
of
> > the engine for you guys to view. nice looking plant...KK
>
> What kind of valvetrain are you running, what stall and what do you have
> idle set at.  Thanks.  I have a Lunati cam in my 455, but the much smaller
> one.  .448/.472 lift, 204/214 duration and no headers.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 20:48:10 EDT
From: Old1970442@aol.com
Subject: transmission decoding

Olds Fans

 Does anyone here now how to decode transmission codes?

Heath
1970 4-4-2
1972 Cultass Supreme 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 20:50:02 EDT
From: Moparrp@aol.com
Subject: Re: Are you interested in a 1966 f-85 2drht parts car

i'm interested in the parts car!!!! where are you located?i have a sick 66 
cutlass and am in dire need of any thing i can get!you can e- mail me at 
mopar rp@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 20:51:00 -0400
From: "Randy Geisel" <Rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: transmission decoding

Did you check the FAQ?  What codes do you need deciphered. I'll check my
chassic manuals for you.

Randy


> Olds Fans
>
>  Does anyone here now how to decode transmission codes?
>
> Heath
> 1970 4-4-2
> 1972 Cultass Supreme
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 21:02:33 -0400
From: "Ken" <olds442@en.com>
Subject: Re: Good Olds day (how to draw a crowd)

>Are you running a hydraulic cam?

Nope

>If so then the cam break in should be 20
>minutes at 2500-2800 RPM.

Per Engle (the cam manufacturer) 20 minutes at 2000.

>Also on a new motor it is not a good idea to
>(rev) the motor, especially without a load on the motor.

Yeah, couldn't help it.  Rev limiter was set at 4000 rpm so I think I'll b
ok.  This is a 7000 rpm motor.

>What type of cam are you running (spec wise)?


.594/.600 260/270@.050 solid tappets

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 21:10:54 -0400
From: "Ken" <olds442@en.com>
Subject: Re: Budget Buildup 455 update

Here's a budget tip I got from Dave Brode, a list member.  Buy TRW forged
Chevrolet 396 +.060 pistons.  The bore is 4.155 perfect for your +.030 455
Olds.  Piston height is like +.020 more than Olds, which will give you 0
deck or there abouts. Your Olds wrist pins will have to be reamed out(like
$20).The good part is the Chevy pistons sell for $220 or so.  A machine shop
will mill off the big domes for $50 or so.  Doing this you can get around
11.5:1 compression with unmilled heads and a stock type head gasket.
Compare the $290 price tag with a set of $600 Mondello or Miller flat tops..

Ken

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 21:22:58 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: Headers (Do or Dont)

I give up........do what you all want.....Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 21:40:02 -0400
From: "phil giannotta" <henkey@mich.com>
Subject: Fw: Timing problem

- -----Original Message-----
From: phil giannotta <henkey@mich.com>
To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, June 01, 1999 9:39 PM
Subject: Fw: Timing problem


>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: phil giannotta <henkey@mich.com>
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Date: Wednesday, June 1, 1999 9:30pm
>Subject: Timing problem
>
>
>>I have  recently purchased a 70 cutlass supreme. I went to check the
timing
>>and found the gauge plate for the timing mark is missing. Is it
>>mechanically fastened to the timing cover or is it tach welded on ?  I
have
>>a 350 . Also, the motor is hard to turn over when it is warmed up which is
>>why I was checking the timing .
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 18:39:06 -0700
From: "Mike Sealey" <ninetyeight@angelfire.com>
Subject: Re: 'Starflite' emblem

On Tue, 25 May 1999 20:34:38   Paul Hartlieb wrote:

>I was all ready to shout DESOTO!  Then I realized they had the
>FIREflite...

One of the '62 DeSoto prototypes went by "Starflite",
but I suspect this emblem has nothing to do with that.

I seem to remember the Starflite name as having been
attached to bowling-ball return equipment, but memory's
hazy beyond that...

Obligatory Olds Content:  William C. Durant, the man
who brought Olds into GM, lost control of GM, regained
it and then lost again, managed a bowling alley toward
the end of his life.

Mike Sealey
'69 Ninety Eight Holiday Sedan


Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail. http://www.angelfire.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 21:46:59 -0400
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Olds Power Indy.

Yeah,
that kinda sucked, but his team did the right thing. If they had pitted,
they'd have had no chance at winning, so they were right to take the chance.
It just didn't work out for them.  Oh well, it's only the Indy 500.  No one
really cares about that race anyway...%%


Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 3.8 Calais
Bucks County, PA
mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo


> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Gene Gilpin
> Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 1999 12:36 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Olds Power Indy.
>
>
> Speaking if Indy. How about the poor guy that was leading the race and ran
> out of gas on the last lap. Talk about your picnic smelling like urine!
>
> Omega Man
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 20:44:56 -0500
From: Bill Bussell <5011.0891@tcon.net>
Subject: bolt size?

My son's 1984 Cutlass Supreme with V6 has a few bolts that were left out
by the last "mechanic."  I found the bolt missing from the alternator
support bracket that goes into the intake manifold.  The real area of
concern is the lower bolt on the air conditioner compressor.  I loosened
the top bolt to tighten the belt, only to learn that the bottom bolt was
only wedged in place.  The bolt that was used as a wedge was not the
correct size.  I determined through trial and error that it was a
3/8-inch bolt.  It seemed to start to thread into place, but never did
tighten after I used my air ratchet to finish the job.  I must not have
the correct bolt size or the threads are gone.  Would an 84 have a
mixture of metric and SAE capscrews? I think that metric bolts would
most likely be M8 x 1.25 or M10 x 1.25.  Any bolt size information would
be appreciated.  I am toying with the idea of visiting the bulk bolt
supply at Pep Boys and loading up on a number of different sizes.

Bill Bussell
Speedway, Indiana

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 21:58:55 -0400
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: bolt size?

A good rule of thumb for G-bodies, is that any kinda bracketry bolts are
metric and any vital bolts that are cool, i.e. engine specific hardware, are
SAE.  Like A/C bolts are 15mm but valve cover bolts are 3/8"  I've found
this to be the case on all the 80's GM's I've owned.


Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 3.8 Calais
Bucks County, PA
mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo


> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Bill Bussell
> Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 1999 9:45 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: bolt size?
>
>
> My son's 1984 Cutlass Supreme with V6 has a few bolts that were left out
> by the last "mechanic."  I found the bolt missing from the alternator
> support bracket that goes into the intake manifold.  The real area of
> concern is the lower bolt on the air conditioner compressor.  I loosened
> the top bolt to tighten the belt, only to learn that the bottom bolt was
> only wedged in place.  The bolt that was used as a wedge was not the
> correct size.  I determined through trial and error that it was a
> 3/8-inch bolt.  It seemed to start to thread into place, but never did
> tighten after I used my air ratchet to finish the job.  I must not have
> the correct bolt size or the threads are gone.  Would an 84 have a
> mixture of metric and SAE capscrews? I think that metric bolts would
> most likely be M8 x 1.25 or M10 x 1.25.  Any bolt size information would
> be appreciated.  I am toying with the idea of visiting the bulk bolt
> supply at Pep Boys and loading up on a number of different sizes.
>
> Bill Bussell
> Speedway, Indiana
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 21:08:19 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Headers, Yet another Question (from a different guy)

>  Ok, I have to ask a question about headers now.  How much louder are
>they as compared to stock manifolds, or is that just a myth?  I want to
>get a set for my '70 cutlass 'S' 350.  Also, what's better to do first,
>upgrade my stock 2bbl setup (intake and carb) for a 4bbl setup or do
>the exhaust thing?
>
>  TIA,
>    Stefan


Stefan, 
I think most of the myth of headers being louder is because most 
of the time when headers are put on the whole exhaust system is
changed.  There is a bit more noise under the hood, but not a
noticeable amount with the hood shut ~especially~ if you have the
hood insulation installed.  I put headers and duals on my 72 before
the 4bl and I picked up a noticeable difference in performance and
gas mileage (original single exhaust car).  As a side note, the car
always had a flat spot off of idle, but not after the dual exhaust.  Made
the car a whole lot better for daily driving.  I would go for the headers
first, that way the 4bl won't be wasted on a restrictive exhaust and 
you will see a decent power improvement with each step you take.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 22:07:32 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Convertible top question

Ioannis Kouramanis wrote:

> Q1: What the heck is that for? It's thick and stiff enough to be a
> part of a frame or something, but what is it doing going inside the
> window?

This cable is used to keep the sides of the top tight against the top
frame when the top "balloons".  Otherwise it would just flap in the
breeze.

> Q2: can I safely remove it? I figure I can since there isn't one on
> the drivers side.

I wouldn't recommend it.  There probably is one on the driver's side,
you just can't see it.  I'm thinking maybe the seam is weak on the
passenger side and has allowed the cable to slip through.

> I have tried pulling on it, and I think I could extract it with some
> patience, but what really puzzles me is what the heck it's function
> is.

I was in a '64 Ninety Eight convertible about a week and half ago.  I
was shocked to see daylight coming in between the top and the frame when
we were moving with the windows up.  This car has a brand new top and
they must not have bothered to replace the old cables.  Cracking a
window equalized the pressure and the top stopped "ballooning" and
returned to normal position, laying on the frame.  I had new cables
installed in my '72 Cutlass back in '90 and it stays tight against the
frame sides (no daylight anyway), even when the top is ballooning. 
These cables have a spring on one end that must get weak with time,
allowing looseness in the sides.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 22:09:37 EDT
From: Zitoj@aol.com
Subject: Better Olds day

Well now I'm batting .500 aI got one of the 442 engines to spin with a 
wrench.  And as a bonus it's the one in my convertable.  I'll probably be 
getting a battery and some gas on Weds and try to fire her up.  

Thanks for the quick responses on the paniced message the other day.  

The engine in the rust bucket still doesn't spin, even with a 3 foot braker 
bar on the main nut ..... at least I found that the nut will still come out. 
;-)

Also finshed cutting up the body and the rust bucket, it'll be going to the 
scrap yard tomorrow.  All that's left is the frame w/rear end and engine.  
The rust is so bad that the rear wheels don't come off even with no lug nuts. 
 Got one off w/a sledge but not the other one yet.  Sprayed it down well 
tonight.

Jim 
69 442 conv

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 21:22:29 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Weekend fun

>The bushings were amazingly easy to push out also. I
>went out to my parents where there is a 3 ton press.


Lucky, lucky man.  I had to use my air chisel/hammer,
a block of wood, assorted length sockets, several size
hammers (5lb and up), assorted large diameter sockets,
the freezer, the barbecue grille, and the side of my house
to get my bushings/ball joints in and out this weekend.  
Glad that's over with!

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 21:48:23 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Fake W30 Opinions

>You may not win at the "olds nationals" because of the car not being
>original but it sure as heck looks awesome driving down the street. What
>looks better, a Plain-Jane 442 or a Cutlass decked out with all the 442
>goodies? Pettrix@prodigy.net


Peter has a very good point, but there is something else to be considered.
Mainly that 90% of the cars that have been claimed to be "fully restored"
are, in fact, nowhere near factory condition.  In this, I mean that all the
picky
details have been fussed over to make the car exactly as it came off the
showroom floor.  An example:  Look under a "restored" car and see if there
are bolts holding in the upper ball joints or actual rivets as per original.
To
me, I couldn't care less as long as it's a nice car, but this is in effect a
mis-representation of the car just the same as a fake W-30.  If I had to
pick,
I would choose a Cutlass that runs 11's over a true W-30 that runs 13's any
day.  As to the original post, I would put more of a price tag on the
quality
and the craftsmanship that has been put into the car than anything else.
Of course, all this comes from a guy who has realized he'll probably never
own a nice 442 and has rationalized his love of the Cutlii variety because
of that.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 21:50:08 -0500
From: "James L. Brownfield" <olzracer@peaknet.net>
Subject: Headers (Do or Dont)

Hi all,

Another thing to keep in mind is, if you uncork you got to jet up. The
added flow is going to cause a lean condition. I don't know anybody who
hasn't gained anything by uncorking their header, that is, if carb
jetted right.

Jim

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 21:43:15 -0500
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
Subject: Re: Budget Buildup 455 update

good budget tip but I wanted to keep it more streetable and my heads in
stock form cc out to 75cc cutting the heads .020 shaves approximately 5 cc
bringing them down to 70 + head gasket which on a fel-pro is .028 compressed
yeilding the original 75 cc then the pistons are cast 38 cc dish and the
computer tells me the compression is approx. 9.25:1 allowing me to use pump
premium with good results, the bore on my engine is standard any way and the
piston fit is perfect, if I do another engine I may try the 396 slugs and do
a real race car buildup for the list but I dont race much anymore and just
like to have a nice running street car
with an idle that turns heads like the two kids who looked at my car going
by and exclaimed that they liked my "CHEVELLE"!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I just ignored
it because at least they didnt tell me to get a honda...LOL...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Ken <olds442@en.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 1999 8:10 PM
Subject: Re: Budget Buildup 455 update


> Here's a budget tip I got from Dave Brode, a list member.  Buy TRW forged
> Chevrolet 396 +.060 pistons.  The bore is 4.155 perfect for your +.030 455
> Olds.  Piston height is like +.020 more than Olds, which will give you 0
> deck or there abouts. Your Olds wrist pins will have to be reamed out(like
> $20).The good part is the Chevy pistons sell for $220 or so.  A machine
shop
> will mill off the big domes for $50 or so.  Doing this you can get around
> 11.5:1 compression with unmilled heads and a stock type head gasket.
> Compare the $290 price tag with a set of $600 Mondello or Miller flat
tops..
>
> Ken
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 22:13:15 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Memorial Day Fun

>I spent 5 stinkin' hours playing around with this thing and I'm still not
>quite done. I normally enjoy wrenching on the car. But not this time. It
>would have been a lot better (easier) if I'd had a buddy to work with. The
>problem is, I'm a pastor. Who wants to work on a car with a pastor. What do
>you say when you smash your finger? Go . . . sh  Da . . . r n  it? Sh . . .
>oot! Oh well.


ROFL.......Well, it always seems to work out that anytime you try to do a
little performance work to your car you end up with unforeseen problems.
Either you have to learn to love it or just quit while your ahead.  FWIW,
if you lived anywhere around here I think I could bite my tongue for a few
hours to lend a hand.  ;-)

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 23:39:03 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Memorial Day Fun

Mike Bloomer wrote:
> 
> if you lived anywhere around here I think I could bite my tongue for a few
> hours to lend a hand.  ;-)

No way, can't bite my tongue, i'd cut it cleen off! I just let 'em fly
when ever I work. Helps to get stuff done and give me a little extra
power to loosen that stuck bolt
- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
*************************
http://drive.to/73cutlass
- -----------------------
'73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
'70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
*************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 22:50:28 -0500 (CDT)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Dr. Olds - K. Wood)
Subject: 8 track player????

Anybody from the list have an 8 track player
for sale that will fit a 72 Cutlass?  I have obtained a good case for a
72, but the player
is shot.  I know that normally the cases are the
parts that take the beating and the players play forever.  If anybody
has a player from Olds that
will interchange, I would be interested in a
price for such an item.  Really prefer a unit with
the wiring harnesses intact.

Please send the information with required price
including approximate shipping to Hartland, Wisconsin 53027- to me
personally at
Dr-Olds@webtv.net

Really appreciate any h*lp you guys can give.

Thanks again,
Kevin D. Wood
Dr-Olds@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 00:18:06 -0600
From: "Jeff Newman" <newsance@netzero.net>
Subject: posi question

Saw a '78 Trans Am in the paper for $900. "403, many aftermarket parts"
Figured I would take a look.

The "many aftermarket parts" was a wee understatement.

This was one hopped up 403. One helluva nasty idle...

By far the fastest car I have ever driven or ridden in. No, I have never
been in a 70 442 w-30, but...

Launching with anything over 1/4 throttle would spin the tires like you
wouldn't belive. Likewise if you floor it at anything under 35 mph.

So heres the question. The seller claims it has a 3.08 posi in it. However,
the drivers side rear tire is very close to bald, while the other seems to
have half its tread on it.

This screamed ONE LEGGER to me, except that doesn't the passenger tire spin
before the left on a one legger?

________________________________________________________
NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet.  Shouldn't you?
Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 02:45:38 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: posi question

In a message dated 6/1/99 11:10:43 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
newsance@netzero.net writes:

<< So heres the question. The seller claims it has a 3.08 posi in it. However,
 the drivers side rear tire is very close to bald, while the other seems to
 have half its tread on it.
 
 This screamed ONE LEGGER to me, except that doesn't the passenger tire spin
 before the left on a one legger? >>

	Well, one bald tire would certainly make me think that...but your 
right, in all the instances I have seen, the passenger is the one that spins. 
Gravel or dirt is a good place to check. Supposedly worn internals in a one 
legger can cause the appearance of posi, although a bad posi could likewise 
give the appearance of a one legger, perhaps even on the opposite side. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 01:15:39 -0600
From: "ed" <ed@techniflite.com>
Subject: Re: posi question

More likely scenario... Right rear goes bald, swapped with left rear,
continue spinning right rear!  I'd suspect a one legger.

Ed Linehan
70 442 W-30 Sport Coupe
71 Cutlass SX
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 12:45 AM
Subject: Re: posi question


> In a message dated 6/1/99 11:10:43 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> newsance@netzero.net writes:
>
> << So heres the question. The seller claims it has a 3.08 posi in it.
However,
>  the drivers side rear tire is very close to bald, while the other seems
to
>  have half its tread on it.
>
>  This screamed ONE LEGGER to me, except that doesn't the passenger tire
spin
>  before the left on a one legger? >>
>
> Well, one bald tire would certainly make me think that...but your
> right, in all the instances I have seen, the passenger is the one that
spins.
> Gravel or dirt is a good place to check. Supposedly worn internals in a
one
> legger can cause the appearance of posi, although a bad posi could
likewise
> give the appearance of a one legger, perhaps even on the opposite side.
Dorian
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 04:50:32 EDT
From: Machine1km@aol.com
Subject: Re: posi question

yea. there is no way that that is posi tractoin. That guys is feeding you a 
load of horse s*#T.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 04:52:45 EDT
From: Machine1km@aol.com
Subject: Re: posi question

back again. I didn't read very carefully. I guess I'm stumped on that one. 
Sorry.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 06:54:09 -0400
From: Uncle Pete <pteubel@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: posi question

WHERE is this car?  I may be interested in the engine alone.

- - Pete

At 12:18 AM 6/2/99 -0600, you wrote:
>Saw a '78 Trans Am in the paper for $900. "403, many aftermarket parts"
>Figured I would take a look.
>
>The "many aftermarket parts" was a wee understatement.
>
>This was one hopped up 403. One helluva nasty idle...
>
>By far the fastest car I have ever driven or ridden in. No, I have never
>been in a 70 442 w-30, but...
>
>Launching with anything over 1/4 throttle would spin the tires like you
>wouldn't belive. Likewise if you floor it at anything under 35 mph.
>
>So heres the question. The seller claims it has a 3.08 posi in it. However,
>the drivers side rear tire is very close to bald, while the other seems to
>have half its tread on it.
>
>This screamed ONE LEGGER to me, except that doesn't the passenger tire spin
>before the left on a one legger?
>
>________________________________________________________
>NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet.  Shouldn't you?
>Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
>http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 07:12:06 -0700
From: akunzie@mediaone.net
Subject: Super Stock I wheels.

I am looking for a set of 4 SSI 14x7 wheels, hopefully in good
condition.  I have looked at several of these wheels and have noticed
that the opening for the lug nuts tends to get wallowed out.  So if at
all possible I would like to have wheels that this has not happed to
yet.

Andrew
70 442

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 08:00:11 -0400
From: Andy Mikesell <andymikesell@mediaone.net>
Subject: Snake oils and other engine voodoos

I was traveling through the airport this weekend and
picked up a copy of Ch*vy Craft, ... er ... I mean,
"Car Craft" and saw an ad for an oil additive that
supposedly helps high mileage engines.

The name was something like Resolve, or Risolve.  I
don't have the exact name since I felt the mag wasn't
really worth keeping.  The product claimed to "seal"
the groves and scratched on the cylinder wall cause by
many miles.  The main claimed benefit was increased
compression and overall engine efficiency.

Anyone have any experience with these "snake oils"?  Do
they help, or do they cause other problems later like
gumming up the oil pump, etc.

- - Andy
- --
http://people.ne.mediaone.net/andymikesell/Delta88.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 16:07:15 +0400
From: danila <danila@kodeks.net>
Subject: Help!

Help! I search for the specification and description on Oldsmobile Delta
88
1986. The request to throw off the information to me on E-mail: danila@
kodeks.net
Yours faithfully Danlila.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 05:36:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Flex Fans (Electric)

rockman wrote:
> I'm actually
> > thinking about losing the fan completely and going
> > electric. But that's just me! :-)

- --- Igor Todorovic <igor455@home.com> wrote: 
> I was thinking about that myself.  I could then let
> the car sit shut off
> while the fan still runs to cool the rad.  That
> would reduce my cool down
> time PLUS it will increase HP and it will install a
> manual shut-off switch
> for it so that I can control it when I want to.
================================

The only bad thing is that the electric fan is only
cooling the radiator instead of the engine when the
car is off. If I do go with an electric, I will really
look into going electric water pump also. Perfect
setup. Turn car off but leave the water pump and the
fan on. Cools down the radiator plus the cold coolant
flows to cool the engine as well.
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 07:34:38 -0500
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
Subject: Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos

its called restore and I wouldnt use the stuff>>>>KK

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 05:43:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Raising engine

List,

Well, I got my headers and my aluminum valve covers
yesterday. First, I am disappointed that I have to
punch out that tab on the Holley M/T valve covers. The
only area (besides on the inside) that says Olds. What
a waste! Anyways, I have been assessing the situation
and it looks like I am going to have to raise the
engine a bit to get clearance between the frame and
the header. Now, can I just put shims underneath the
engine mounts on the frame? Better question would be,
CAN I do this?

Thanks again!
Del

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 08:50:20 -0400
From: "Etzel, Bobby" <Bobby.Etzel@GSC.GTE.Com>
Subject: RE: very confused

I have a color chip chart on my web site for the 70 model cars, if you would
like to see what was available. Go to:

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Shop/4617/  and select the "1970 Paint
Chips". It takes a little time to load.

Bobby

70 442 Escape Back to the.....Past 

	-----Original Message-----
	From:	Mark Thurman [SMTP:Thurman@kvnet.org]
	Sent:	Tuesday, June 01, 1999 7:25 PM
	To:	Olds Mailing List
	Subject:	Re: very confused

	<<original message>>

	From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
	Subject: Re: very Confused.

	<snip>There were 4 "Extra Cost" paint colors, #38 Aegean Aqua, #51
Sebring
	Yellow, #53 Nugget Gold and #73 Rallye Red.  I guess all of these
were
	marked - - on the data plate, but don't know for sure.  Aqua and
Gold
	were available on all models, Yellow and Red were available only on
the
	intermediate models.<snip>

	FWIW - my 1970 Cutlass Supreme "Babe", who is serious danger of
moving from
	the "restore one day" category to the "parts car now" category, has
the #51
	(Sebring Yellow) paint code on the cowl tag (actually has 51A - the
vinyl
	top is now black so I guess it has been changed).  What I find
interesting
	is that the cowl tag has a "G" factory code (for Framingham, Mass)
instead
	of "FRA" as I have seen in most literature (this does match the VIN
#).
	Trim code is 977 with a build code of 06A.

	Mark

	

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 09:05:38 -0400
From: Doug Ahern <doug@mail.RATH.PeachNet.EDU>
Subject: Re: Raising engine

On Wed, Jun 02, 1999 at 05:43:44AM -0700, Rock Man wrote:
> List,
> 
> Well, I got my headers and my aluminum valve covers
> yesterday. First, I am disappointed that I have to
> punch out that tab on the Holley M/T valve covers. The
> only area (besides on the inside) that says Olds. What
> a waste! Anyways, I have been assessing the situation
> and it looks like I am going to have to raise the
> engine a bit to get clearance between the frame and
> the header. Now, can I just put shims underneath the
> engine mounts on the frame? Better question would be,
> CAN I do this?

you mean temporarily, while you install the headers?  use an engine
hoist or a floor jack with a block of wood under the oilpan.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 07:05:22 -0600
From: "ed" <ed@techniflite.com>
Subject: Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos

It's all crap.  I've personally seen two high mile motors turned into crap
within 10,000 miles after use of expensive additives.  Use oil or synthetic.
262,122.6 miles on my SX so far on just regular oil changes.

Ed Linehan
70 442 W-30 Sport Coupe
71 Cutlass SX
> Snip<
> Anyone have any experience with these "snake oils"?  Do
> they help, or do they cause other problems later like
> gumming up the oil pump, etc.
>
> - Andy
> --
> http://people.ne.mediaone.net/andymikesell/Delta88.htm
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 09:18:57 -0400
From: Doug Ahern <doug@mail.RATH.PeachNet.EDU>
Subject: Re: Good Olds day (how to draw a crowd)

when I broke in my last motor, everything seemed to go right. among
other things I did:

- - opened the lower radiator petcock and let water drain out, put
a garden hose in the top of the radiator and matched the flow
coming out the petcock.   
- - drilled a small hole in the thermostat to let air traped in the
engine water jackets to bubble out and escape.
- - temporarily ridged up a $7 mech. oil pressure gauge under the hood
so I could monitor the oil pressure the entire time with having to
run back to the dash...  


Doug Ahern
Athens, GA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 09:18:48 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: Flex Fans (Electric)

> The only bad thing is that the electric fan is only
> cooling the radiator instead of the engine when the
> car is off. If I do go with an electric, I will really
> look into going electric water pump also. Perfect
> setup. Turn car off but leave the water pump and the
> fan on. Cools down the radiator plus the cold coolant
> flows to cool the engine as well.

Hey Rock Man,

    We are still talking Olds here aren't we. I don't believe there is an
electric water pump made for the Olds BB 455. At least I've yet to find one.
This was my consideration for Quincy as well but could not locate an
electric pump for the BB. Please correct me if you have info I don't.

    I'm considering using duel fans. A Flex on the pump and a 16" ~18"
electric on the front in pusher mode. I'm awaiting testing the 455 once back
up and running to see my temperature situation. I still have COLD blowing
R-12 A/C that I'll be making use of during show travel this Summer. Even
with a new 3 core H/D rad on the stock 307, the temp would creep up in idle
to 2,000 rpm city usage driving. :() They are now making these electric fans
so small motor/mounts wise that they would hardly block much incoming air at
high speed. Combine both fans with a 160* stat and Quincy should keep cool
in hot stop and go traffic. Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse

ICQ# 5209322
Email: gjcouse@francomm.com
Web: http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 06:28:17 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Raising engine

- --- Doug Ahern <doug@mail.RATH.PeachNet.EDU> wrote:
> you mean temporarily, while you install the headers?
>  use an engine
> hoist or a floor jack with a block of wood under the
> oilpan.
> 
Nope.....I mean for good. I'm not worried about
installation because I will be putting the engine in
and getting the headers set up all at the same time.
But, as the engine use to sit, I was not able to get
my hand between the frame and the stock exhaust
manifold. The headers are quite a bit wider which
leads me to believe that I am going to have to raise
the engine somehow. Either that or cut the headers
apart and wrap em around the frame!
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 09:27:23 EDT
From: Dshack4@aol.com
Subject: "Old"  Oldsmobile Advertising Campaign???

List:

Trying to find some adds that Oldsmobile made in the late 60's early 70's.  
Does anyone know what magazines they advertised in?  I know I have seen them 
on the net, but not sure which mag's they were pulled from.

Thanks,
Shack
71 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 06:34:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Flex Fans (Electric)

- --- gjcouse <gjcouse@francomm.com> wrote:
> Hey Rock Man,
> 
>     We are still talking Olds here aren't we. I
> don't believe there is an
> electric water pump made for the Olds BB 455. At
> least I've yet to find one.
> This was my consideration for Quincy as well but
> could not locate an
> electric pump for the BB. Please correct me if you
> have info I don't.
> 
>     I'm considering using duel fans. A Flex on the
> pump and a 16" ~18"
> electric on the front in pusher mode. I'm awaiting
> testing the 455 once back
> up and running to see my temperature situation. I
> still have COLD blowing
> R-12 A/C that I'll be making use of during show
> travel this Summer. Even
> with a new 3 core H/D rad on the stock 307, the temp
> would creep up in idle
> to 2,000 rpm city usage driving. :() They are now
> making these electric fans
> so small motor/mounts wise that they would hardly
> block much incoming air at
> high speed. Combine both fans with a 160* stat and
> Quincy should keep cool
> in hot stop and go traffic. Gary....
===================================

Gary,

Nope, I am not informed on anything you don't know. I
haven't checked into the electric pumps as of yet
because I still am unsure what I want to go with. If I
do want to go with one, it will be for the SB 350.
What you say doesn't suprise me though. I have found
that Olds performance parts can be hard to find. 

Del
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 09:42:00 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: Flex Fans (Electric)

Now that I think of it, Is there any physical size difference between a SB +
BB water pumps? I would figure Olds used the same pump in both applications.
I haven't seen any electric water pumps for the SB either.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse

ICQ# 5209322
Email: gjcouse@francomm.com
Web: http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 09:49:47 -0400 
From: "Worthington, David L" <david_worthington@reyrey.com>
Subject: cam ID 

Once again, 

I need your h*lp ID'ing a cam.  It was in a Crane box, and had the number
"569" stamped on the distributor end.  Cranecams.com web site does not seem
to have any numbers that match up to the one on the cam.  The cam seems to
have very business-like lumps on it.

Any ideas?


Thanks!


Dave (home for wayward cams) Worthington

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 06:56:26 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: "Old" Oldsmobile Advertising Campaign???

>Trying to find some ads that Oldsmobile made in the late 60's early
>70's. Does anyone know what magazines they advertised in?

Practically all the mainstream ones. Look for old Life magazines for nice 
big pages, or National Geographic for smaller ones. Geographics in 
particular were printed on good quality paper stock that usually won't 
discolor for decades (plus of course people keep storing them in nice cool 
basements :-)...

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 10:16:01 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: "Old"  Oldsmobile Advertising Campaign???

In a message dated 06/02/1999 9:30:04 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Dshack4@aol.com writes:

<< Trying to find some adds that Oldsmobile made in the late 60's early 70's. 
 
 Does anyone know what magazines they advertised in?  I know I have seen them 
 on the net, but not sure which mag's they were pulled from.
  >>
Look for vendors at swap meets that carry that stuff.  There was a ton of 
them at Spring Carlisle.  One guy had lots of  69 W-31 and W-32 ads, no W-30s 
:-(

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 11:26:03 -0300
From: "Ray Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: Autotrader URL?

Hey there all,

Anyone know the url for Autotrader?  I figured it would be www.autotrader.com 
or auto-trader or autotraderUSA or something like that, but no luck.  Anyone?  
Thanks



Ray with no signature since he's accessing his email from the web but still 
has a couple of Oldses and searching for another.



  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 10:38:28 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: "Old" Oldsmobile Advertising Campaign???

At 06:56 AM 6/2/99 PDT, you wrote:
>>Trying to find some ads that Oldsmobile made in the late 60's early
>>70's. Does anyone know what magazines they advertised in?
>
>Practically all the mainstream ones. Look for old Life magazines for nice 
>big pages, or National Geographic for smaller ones. Geographics in 
>particular were printed on good quality paper stock that usually won't 
>discolor for decades (plus of course people keep storing them in nice cool 
>basements :-)...
>
>-- Andy



Yea then they pull them out and sell them to me on ebay and they arrive in
the mail carrying the nice aluring fragrance of 'must'. I've got more than
one musty smelling old car magazine.

Olds content: There are alot of good Olds articles in the old magazines.
Olds was well represented back then. Late 70s through the 80s and into the
90s people got Chevy Fever. B.O.P seems to be making a comeback in the last
year or so. You can really see it in the latest issues of Car Craft and
Muscle Car Review. Not to sure about Hot Rod as I haven't been following
them lately. Have they crawled out of the pro-street era yet? Anyone been
reading Hot Rod?

Omega Man



>
>
>_______________________________________________________________
>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 10:40:56 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Autotrader URL?

In a message dated 06/02/1999 10:27:33 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
costanzo@netcarrier.com writes:

<< Anyone know the url for Autotrader?  I figured it would be 
www.autotrader.com or auto-trader or autotraderUSA or something like that, 
but no luck.  Anyone?  Thanks >>

Here you go.

www.traderonline.com

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 11:42:30 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Super Stock I wheels.

On Wed, 2 Jun 1999 akunzie@mediaone.net wrote:
> I am looking for a set of 4 SSI 14x7 wheels, hopefully in good
> condition.

Add me to the list, though I would want a set of 5. All-chrome ones would
be nice too. :) For some reason SSIs seem much harder to find than IIs and
IIIs. 


Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 10:48:10 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: "Old" Oldsmobile Advertising Campaign???

In a message dated 06/02/1999 10:39:19 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
ggilpin@wrallp.com writes:

<< Yea then they pull them out and sell them to me on ebay and they arrive in
 the mail carrying the nice aluring fragrance of 'must'. I've got more than
 one musty smelling old car magazine. >>

Yeah, I paid 6 bucks for an original 1969 sales brochure.  No extra charge 
for the smell. lol

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 10:57:04 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Autotrader URL?

Ray Costanzo wrote:
> 
> Hey there all,
> Anyone know the url for Autotrader?  I figured it would be 
www.autotrader.com or auto-trader or autotraderUSA or something like that, but 
no luck.  Anyone?  Thanks
> 
> Ray with no signature since he's accessing his email from the web but still 
has a couple of Oldses and searching for another.
\

How about traderonline.com  ?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 11:16:58 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Autotrader URL?

just click this.

http://www.traderonline.com

Omega Man






At 11:26 AM 6/2/99 -0300, you wrote:
>Hey there all,
>Anyone know the url for Autotrader?  I figured it would be
www.autotrader.com or auto-trader or autotraderUSA or something like that,
but no luck.  Anyone?  Thanks
>
>Ray with no signature since he's accessing his email from the web but
still has a couple of Oldses and searching for another.
>
>  
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 10:24:39 -0500
From: "zappa" <zappa@microgear.net>
Subject: RE: Flex Fans (Electric)

Just for your info, I have two electric fans on my 70 Cutlass w/455. I also
have a 160 thermostat and it they keep it at about 161 according to my
gauge. The only time it jumps above that is when I am running the AC and it
goes up to about 175. This is in Shreveport, LA so it does get warm here in
the summer. I installed them when I lived in Florida and never had a problem
there either. Course I put in an aftermarket 4 core radiator too so that
helps. Forget about putting a low cost switch on the fans though as they
tend to melt and leave you without fans. Get a temp thermostat for the fans
and set it to the temp you want and it works great. I have been running this
setup for approximately 5 years all over the Southeast with no major
problems I can remember. Just my nickels worth.

Stephan
70 GoldOlds
ICQ# 498105

- -----Original Message-----
From:	oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Igor Todorovic
Sent:	Tuesday, June 01, 1999 6:42 PM
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:	Re: Flex Fans (Electric)

I'm actually
> thinking about losing the fan completely and going
> electric. But that's just me! :-)

I was thinking about that myself.  I could then let the car sit shut off
while the fan still runs to cool the rad.  That would reduce my cool down
time PLUS it will increase HP and it will install a manual shut-off switch
for it so that I can control it when I want to.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1991
*********************************

