Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.Ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.Ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1929


oldsmobile-digest      Wednesday, April 28 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1929



Re: Price of Mustang
Comp Cam for Olds 260
Re: Buyers everywhere
Re: '72 disc brakes
Chevy Cutlass Supreme???
Cruise Control diagnosis
RE: Chevy Cutlass Supreme???
All points search for a driveshaft!!!
Re: part numbers  wasRe: 3.42 aftermarket Ring and Pinion question
Re: car shows?
Re: Only 1973 Toronado known to exist!
Re: Tail lamps out
Re: Only 1973 Toronado known to exist!
Re: steel-shim vs composite head gaskets
Re: Only 1973 Toronado known to exist!
Re: 1972 442 W 30 For Sale
Re: Water? was: Rainy Day Doggie
Re: 72 Supreme SX?????
Re: Steel-shim vs composite head gaskets.
Re: Brake and tail lights out - '68 Cutlass (turn signals work)
UNBOUNCE: What EGR?
Dabury Mint Phone Number
UNBOUNCE: 63 cutlass chrome and clips
UNBOUNCE: Clearing up a mistake
[Fwd: Shocks/Security]
[Fwd: 442 Bumpers]
Re: All points search for a driveshaft!!!
[Fwd: TCC solenoid on 700R4]
Re: Hershey this weekend!
[Fwd: Suspension problem.]
RE: Dabury Mint Phone Number
Re: Me vrs. Speedshop
determining rear end ratio
Re: What are these worth
Re: determining rear end ratio
Re: determining rear end ratio
Re: What are these worth
Screwed up Email
Olds 260 Gets a Bum Rap  (was: Re: 80' Supreme)
Different me against the machine shop.
Re: What are these worth
One wire alternators
Re: '72 disc brakes
Re: Buyers everywhere
Re: [Fwd: 442 Bumpers]
Vibrations Cont'd
Shock recommendation?
Rear Main Seal.
Re: Buyers everywhere
surprise email - can you help me?
Re: Different me against the machine shop.
Re: part numbers  wasRe: 3.42 aftermarket Ring and Pinion question
Re: Shock recommendation?
Re: Shock recommendation?
Re: Compression Ring
Re: Published HP ratings in the late '70s
Re: Different me against the machine shop.
Even better pics of the 83 Hurst Olds
Re: determining rear end ratio
Questions
Re: Different me against the machine shop.
Re: Questions

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 17:30:16 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Price of Mustang

In a message dated 4/27/99 2:32:19 PM Central Daylight Time, Jim68442@aol.com 
writes:

<< Now for the details. It's got 23500 original miles, 200 cid, A/T, Vinyl 
top, 
 Original tires. It's in my mother garage now and I need to get it out of 
 there and me into a house. The car has been in my family since it was new.
 
 What is a good asking price?
 
 Thanks!
 
 Jim 68 442
  >>
  My wife is one of the most knowledgeable Mustang judges in the Dallas area 
and she says that the car could command as much as $9000 to $11000. Of course 
the usual things have to be included...give ot take the wear and tear of 
weather ...yada yada yada.

Collyn

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 17:36:04 -0400
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Comp Cam for Olds 260

What'da ya know.......Comp does sell cams for the 260.  I was paging through
the Special Purpose Cam section of last years catalog (page 157) and they
list
13 different cams for Olds 260-455 1965-1990. They don't specify which grind
they recommend for each application though.

It may be worth a call to them if you decide to go with a cam swap.
1-800-999-0853

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 14:51:04 -0700
From: BOYD DONALD R <drboyd@srpnet.com>
Subject: Re: Buyers everywhere

Sure, _Olds_ buyers!  Bu where are all the people who should be clamoring to
buy my 71 GTX?  BTW, it's at http://www.dlbconsulting.com/gtx if you know
any Mopar fans that you're still speaking to...

Don Boyd
76 Cutlass, factory 455, Hurst T-Tops

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 15:50:29 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: '72 disc brakes

Kerry Kroger wrote:
> 
> better would be a factory assy manual it will show bracket locations and so
> on that the service manual doesnt show or address I could tell you every
> thing to do but there isnt enough space here and I hate to type...KK

Is this similar to what's shown at http://www.mich.com/~crescend/drm2dsc/ ?

HTH
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 16:45:49 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Chevy Cutlass Supreme???

I thought this is funny... George

Car: 1971 Chevy Cutlass Supreme, 91K miles, $4,900, Lincoln, NE

For the full ad, go to:
http://classifieds2000.com/cgi-cls/ad.exe?P1+C14+R577572

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 15:12:26 -0700
From: BOYD DONALD R <drboyd@srpnet.com>
Subject: Cruise Control diagnosis

So, here the deal.  76 Cutlass.  Factory cruise.  Push switch under dash,
orange light illuminates encouragingly.  At 60, push switch on end of turn
signal stalk, nothing happens.  At this point, I haven't bought the factory
service manual yet.  Is there some obvious thing (yes, I already wiggled the
connections at the servo) I should check, or should I begin the Servo Search
at Ye Olde Yardes?

Don Boyd
76 Cutlass 455

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 17:08:59 -0500
From: "Michael Kantowski" <mkantowski@mcguireng.com>
Subject: RE: Chevy Cutlass Supreme???

Maybe he's got a Chevy under the hood and cannot in good conscience still
call it an Oldsmobile.  If not, then this is definately funny!

- -Mike

>-----Original Message-----
>From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
>[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of George
>Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 1999 4:46 PM
>To: OldsML
>Subject: Chevy Cutlass Supreme???
>
>
>
>I thought this is funny... George
>
>Car: 1971 Chevy Cutlass Supreme, 91K miles, $4,900, Lincoln, NE
>
>For the full ad, go to:
>http://classifieds2000.com/cgi-cls/ad.exe?P1+C14+R577572
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 17:20:09 -0500 (CDT)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Dr. Olds - K. Wood)
Subject: All points search for a driveshaft!!!

Anybody out there have a correct driveshaft
for a 70-72 Cutlass/442 with a TH400?  I am
getting the correct transmission for my car
and removing the long TH400.  Just had a new
driveshaft made for the long tail TH, and really
don't want to get rid of it just yet.  Willing to pay
the fair going rate, whatever that may be...
If you have one, or know who does, please
respond privately with a price including shipping
to Hartland, WI  53029...

Thanks!  

I know somebody out there has one of these
laying around!

Kevin D. Wood
Dr-Olds@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 18:46:26 -0400
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <TJACQUILLARD@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: part numbers  wasRe: 3.42 aftermarket Ring and Pinion question

I APPRECIATE THIS VERY MUCH. I also might want to go to higher gears, sometime.
Do they have a part number for the carrier unit (posi)?
thanx, T.J.

Kerry Kroger wrote:

> from richmonds catalog   the numbers are as follows
> 3.42 49-0049-1
> 3.90 49-0050-1
> 4.10 69-0328-1
>
> these are for type-O only
> footnote says fits 3.23 or numerically higher carrier1.626"dia 27 spline
> pinion stem
>
>  I have bought 3.43 to 411 gears from richmond for my o axle ,got them from
>  summit, tell the salesman 12 bolt cover 10 bolt ring gear ,. I was not
> smart
>  enough to save the part #s
>   Butch

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 18:55:15 -0400
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <TJACQUILLARD@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: car shows?

Where are you from Rich? I am from the Covington area.
T.J.

tnsbishop@fuse.net wrote:

> i like to go to one in northern ky or the try state area my self . any
> know of any ?
>
> RICH6986@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > Does any one know if there will be any Olds shows near atlanta the week of
> > may 17 if have to go there for work for a week.  If anyone knows of any let
> > me know
> >
> > TIA
> >
> >         Rich

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 19:13:00 EDT
From: CUTLASS442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Only 1973 Toronado known to exist!

I emailed him regarding his "rare" toro. He replied back three times so far. 
Below are a couple of his responses. I guess I should get a toro because 
according to him a cutlass is a girls car........lololololololol

Richard 
1967 "Oldsmobuick" Cutlass

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>Only one known to exist!?!?!?!?!?!?!? Better check the books again. There 
was 
>55,920 Toros built in '73. Sorry to burst your bubble on such a "rare" car 
>but there is a reason you haven't got any bids on it.

It's big, it's green, I love it, it's the only one in San Jose

Lennox Sweeney                  408-257-9424
1398 Miller Av                  lummox@best.com
San Jose CA 95129
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


Burst my bubble? I love driving a eldo copy from 1973 that only has 59000 
miles

Lennox Sweeney                  408-257-9424
1398 Miller Av                  lummox@best.com
San Jose CA 95129
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~


How many still exist with 56000 original mailes?
I also alway thought a cutlass was a girl's car!

Lennox Sweeney                  408-257-9424
1398 Miller Av                  lummox@best.com
San Jose CA 95129
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 18:18:24 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Tail lamps out

>Not sure what the '68 version was made of, but on later cars it's a 
>solid-core (aluminum?) ribbon of at least five wires bonded together 
>(Right Stop/Turn (green or yellow); Left Stop/Turn (yellow or green); 
>Taillamp (brown); Backup (I forget); Fuel (tan)), which connects at 
>the left rear corner to regular stranded wiring via a large Pack-Con 
>connector. Up front I think it plugs into the side of the fusebox or 
>someplace close by. I've seen various attempts to cut into the thing 
>or splice it (e.g. to install a high-mount brake light in the rear 
>window), and invariably the connections fail later because the 
>solid-core wires in that thing don't like people messing with them.
>
>-- Andy


I can tell you from recently having the entire interior ripped out of
my 68 and just checking the harness in the trunk that there is no
connector.  My 72 had one but the 68 has the harness running
continuously from the fuse panel to the light sockets.  Big harness!

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 19:23:13 -0400
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <TJACQUILLARD@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: Only 1973 Toronado known to exist!

To bad he's not in my area, I would like to show him who's car has the B*lls.
T.J. (68 Supreme w/455, 400, and now, posi)

CUTLASS442@aol.com wrote:

> I emailed him regarding his "rare" toro. He replied back three times so far.
> Below are a couple of his responses. I guess I should get a toro because
> according to him a cutlass is a girls car........lololololololol
>
> Richard
> 1967 "Oldsmobuick" Cutlass
>
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> >Only one known to exist!?!?!?!?!?!?!? Better check the books again. There
> was
> >55,920 Toros built in '73. Sorry to burst your bubble on such a "rare" car
> >but there is a reason you haven't got any bids on it.
>
> It's big, it's green, I love it, it's the only one in San Jose
>
> Lennox Sweeney                  408-257-9424
> 1398 Miller Av                  lummox@best.com
> San Jose CA 95129
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
> Burst my bubble? I love driving a eldo copy from 1973 that only has 59000
> miles
>
> Lennox Sweeney                  408-257-9424
> 1398 Miller Av                  lummox@best.com
> San Jose CA 95129
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
> How many still exist with 56000 original mailes?
> I also alway thought a cutlass was a girl's car!
>
> Lennox Sweeney                  408-257-9424
> 1398 Miller Av                  lummox@best.com
> San Jose CA 95129
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 18:27:20 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: steel-shim vs composite head gaskets

>>I don't know Oldsmobile's that well yet, but with Mopars the 
conventional wisdom is that it's harder to get a good seal when 
installing the steel-shim gaskets - things like head/block 
straightness and surface finish are more critical. The composition 
gaskets are supposed to be more forgiving of this sort of thing.
I haven't heard of any problems with factory steel shim gaskets, I 
guess the factory had the details figured out. Olds engine gurus, any 
comments?<<

You are completely correct.  It's the same thing as with exhaust
manifolds.  From the factory there was no gasket but try to take
one off and put it back on without one and you'll feel like Greg.
The best Olds engine is an un-opened engine.  Now after a 
rebuild where you get the block decked and the heads surfaced
it should be no problem to run a shim head gasket.  But after 
years of heating/cooling cycles something (most likely the heads)
is going to warp enough to cause problems.  The composite 
gaskets have a certain amount of "crush" to them to allow for
small imperfection that shim gaskets won't allow.  This "crush"
is the whole reason for a gasket, and in a perfect world of 
parallel mating surfaces and zero surface runout then you wouldn't
need any gaskets at all!  

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 19:33:51 EDT
From: CUTLASS442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Only 1973 Toronado known to exist!

TJ

No kidding...lol   Currantly under construction/destruction(which ever you 
prefer) is my '67 Cutlass. Its getting a '73 Buick 455 th350(upgrade to th400 
later) and will have posi when I can get it.

Richard
1967 "oldsmobuick" Cutlass

<< 
 To bad he's not in my area, I would like to show him who's car has the B*lls.
 T.J. (68 Supreme w/455, 400, and now, posi) >>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 19:42:23 -0400
From: "John Pajak" <jspajak@us.hsanet.net>
Subject: Re: 1972 442 W 30 For Sale

- -----Original Message-----
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com <LOUS69W30@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, April 27, 1999 12:20 AM
Subject: Re: 1972 442 W 30 For Sale


>In a message dated 4/25/99 9:07:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>jspajak@us.hsanet.net writes:
>
><< OOPS! AC was NOT available on any 72 W30. I'd be real suspicious of this
> car! >>
>
>No, I believe that beginning in 1970 you could get AC in a W30.
>
>Lou Principe
>69 442 W-30
>
In 70 and 71, yes you could get an AC equipped W30. But not in
72!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

John Pajak
http://drive.to/pajak

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 19:45:14 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Water? was: Rainy Day Doggie

> All of this rain/humidity talk is confusing me.  My car runs BETTER on
> cool rainy days.  I'm serious, I get a definite increase in power.  On
> cool dry days, this doesn't happen.  Is my car just really messed up or
> something?
>
Perhaps not.  You may be noticing the same benefit in operation that is
the theory behind the whole water injection idea.   Incidentally, I have
heretofore been suspicious of water injection but others with more
experience than I with it have confirmed its benefits.  If you're
curious about the effects of humidity/water injection on internal
combustion, follow this link:

http://www.landfield.com/faqs/autos/gasoline-faq/part3/index.html

It's a L-O-N-G treatise on gasoline and combustion, but quite
informative.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/dual exhaust/
        sometimes Q-Jet, sometimes Holley/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 19:45:56 -0400
From: "John Pajak" <jspajak@us.hsanet.net>
Subject: Re: 72 Supreme SX?????

Hey folks! Remember the SX option was dropped for 72. You still could order
the 455 engine in the Supreme body though. I ~had~ a 72 455 Supreme parts
car a few years back.

John Pajak
http://drive.to/pajak

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 00:17:53 -0500
From: "Charles A. Dempsey" <cdemps@lsumc.edu>
Subject: Re: Steel-shim vs composite head gaskets.

"John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com> wrote:

> I don't know Oldsmobile's that well yet, but with Mopars the 
> conventional wisdom is that it's harder to get a good seal when 
> installing the steel-shim gaskets 

Hmm. Sorry about the digression, but is it a good idea to make head
gaskets out of steel? Granted it's cheap, but even if your head/block
interface is flat and rigid I can't imagine it giving a good seal.

I work with some serious vacuum equipment and it uses nice squishable
solid copper gaskets. Heat doesn't seem to be a factor up to 900 C (1652
F) and we maintain 10 -6 torr 24 hours X 365 days for years. Wouldn't
this do the job? Copper is much easier to punch, and the material costs
would be maybe $0.75 per gasket.

Yah, I guess nobody makes 'em, but why not?

Charles

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 20:10:46 -0400
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Brake and tail lights out - '68 Cutlass (turn signals work)

Something you may want to check is down in the area behind the left rear where
the wires run in the valley between the quarter panel and the trunk floor.  I
had a newer Cutlass that had the back up lights quit, followed shortly by the
gas gauge and brake lights quiting - After very close inspection (and a loooot
of time the and ohm meter) I found that the wires had actually corrode inside
the insulation to the point of loosing continuity in that area.  I'm not sure
why it happened - although on that particular car the trunk leaked so it stayed
kind of damp in those areas....  It may be something to look at - especially
since it appears to be intermintent.
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a Jetaway and 2.73's  :-(
(Gears are in the near future though...)

C. Casteel wrote:

> Yep, turn signals work o.k., although the right side seems to be a little
> sluggish.
>
> As I was checking it out tonight, the brake lights began to work again, for
> a while. Now nothing. Tail lights don't work at all. Side markers and
> back-up lights are not hooked up. (They haven't been since I've had the car,
> even though the other stuff was working fine up to last week)
>
> Any additional thoughts from the experts?
>
> TIA again.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 21:09:10 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: What EGR?

Problems with Tom's address; forwarding.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas.Martin@motorola.com>
Subject: What EGR?

My 85 Cutlass service manual says that I SHOULD have a NEGATIVE Backpressure
EGR, when I go to the parts store they give me a POSITIVE Backpressure type.
The one that my dad replaced on it from GM was a Positive type.

What SHOULD I have?  Do the 76 and 81-90 cars use the same MOUNT for the
EGR?  I want to use the ported type EGR.
I don't want a backpressure type at all.  Normal ported is what I want.

The reason this is a problem is I have reduced the backpressure in the
exhaust via the Hooker duals and not Cat Conv, and if I have a positive type
EGR, it will not open because there is not enough backpressure to close the
bleed valve in the EGR valve, and it will never open.  Hence, pinging at
part throttle.  If I do the squeeze test, the EGR works fine, but under
vacuum (you must have backpressure in a Positive type EGR valve to make it
open) with my new vacuum pump, it will not open.  (I think it is bad too).
Negative backpressure would make it open too soon, or incorrectly at best.

Anyone know what EGR was used from 73-74, and then 75-76, and then from
77-??  The car shop lists the years in groups.  

Thanks!

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 20:10:44 -0400
From: "Glenn J. Martin" <martin.glenn@sympatico.ca>
Subject: Dabury Mint Phone Number

Could you please post the phone # to the Danbury Mint again. I some how
deleted the digest that it was in.

Thanks

Glenn
1972 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 21:12:00 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 63 cutlass chrome and clips

Not on the list; respond to jwt441@ibm.net if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	jwt441@ibm.net
Subject: 63 cutlass chrome and clips

My friend is restoring a 63 cutlass and is having problems finding =
chrome pieces and clips for mounting same. Any info would be very =
welcome. Thanks.
                                      jwt441@ibm.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 21:14:08 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Clearing up a mistake

Never knew the word "get" would bounce... forwarding.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
Subject: Clearing up a mistake
From:	C K <bloom9@juno.com>

Hello all, this is a follow-up message to one that I wrote a few days ago.
One of the responses to this message caused me some worry, so I did some
research to get more inf..

I'd like to thank this person for going to the official EPA website and
then writing back to the Olds list. 

>Actually, 134A is one of the few refrigerants that is *not* a blend.

Yes, this is true. My mistake.

>R409A is also illegal to use in automotive use, per this from the EPA
>web site:

I almost died when I read this and wasted no time looking up the website
to confirm.  Needless to say I wasn't happy. 

When I sent the list the inf. about R-409a, I was using a retrofit manual
printed up by the manufacturer. In the manual it doesn't list R-409a as a
replacement Fresno used in cars, BUT the local supply house assured me
this is what local A/C mechanics were using. I apologize to the list for
taking this inf. as truthful and legal. 

I called the Fresno company that makes R-409a and asked them why the EPA
says it is illegal for use in cars. He said the EPA tested it and
determined that the chemical made- up of R-409a will eventually damage the
hoses and fittings that were being used on R-12.  He said it wasn't as
fast as R-134a, as far as damage goes, but eventually the damage would
occur. They recommend using R-134a as a replacement for R-12. 

So, when I recharge any A/C system in my cars I will use Freeze 12
(FR-12).

If I should decide to retrofit to R-134a I will replace my condenser with
a new one from a company called Vintage Air (1-800-862-6658). They sell
one called a Super Flow that sells for $117. It is a horizontal coil
measuring 12" tall by 20" wide by .83" thick or one like it except 23.9"
wide. They claim that R-134a requires about 20% more capacity, which means
standard condensers are 20% too small. The Super Flow condenser makes up
for this need by the designing the condenser with more surface area. 
Basically this means that they turned the fins so there's more air flow
over the tubes without increasing the size of the condenser. To get an
idea of how this looks, take a look at the design of a condenser in one of
the newer cars. These are like this because of the R-134a Fresno. 

Once again, sorry for any misinformation in the past.

Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass(daily driver)

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 20:21:00 -0400
From: Scott Parker <sparker442@banet.net>
Subject: [Fwd: Shocks/Security]

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Message-ID: <37250BE5.662776F9@banet.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 20:59:17 -0400
From: Scott Parker <sparker442@banet.net>
Reply-To: sparker442@banet.net
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.04 [en] (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Shocks/Security
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

A couple questions for my esteemed listmates:

1) With the resto almost done, I find I have shocks that don't fit the
car. Apparently they can only be installed/removed with the suspension
partially disassembled. Since that's the state it's in now, 'figured I
should "correct" the situation. Without going overboard, what kind of
shocks would you recommend for a resto that's as close to original as
possible. 'As interested in what would perform best as what may
originally have come with the car...

2) When this baby's done, it's going to be my prized possession and
worth a bunch to me.  What kind of theft deterrent devices do you guys
use?

TIA
Scott Parker
71 442 Conv.


- --------------C9F2C12DF04B60A1FF98DA7A--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 20:21:26 -0400
From: Scott Parker <sparker442@banet.net>
Subject: [Fwd: 442 Bumpers]

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Message-ID: <37250C9E.68F2BA67@banet.net>
Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 21:02:22 -0400
From: Scott Parker <sparker442@banet.net>
Reply-To: sparker442@banet.net
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.04 [en] (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: 442 Bumpers
References: <199904262203.SAA08400@smtp.usit.net>
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What kind of paint would you use to do the back of the bumpers???  Just 
curious.
Scott
71 442 Conv.

C. Casteel wrote:

> I've done business with Desert Dog Auto Parts and was very pleased. Had new
> bumpers (front & back) within a week of shipping my old ones to him. $500 or
> so.
>
> >Desert Dog Auto Parts,  found them on 442.com,  advertising bumpers that are
> >factory
> >                                    quality !  Anyone know what that means ?
> >




- --------------E0EACC53F32C7339CE9BFC92--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 20:20:42 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: All points search for a driveshaft!!!

There is one on 442.com forsale with a 12 bolt rear for 120 bucks..so maybe 
the driveshaft can behad for less....says its from a 70 sx....
Hot Rod Harry <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/">HOT ROD HARRY'S 
OLDSMOBILES
</A> (new Pics of my 83 Hurst)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 20:24:16 -0400
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Subject: [Fwd: TCC solenoid on 700R4]

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I am resending this because my E-mail has been on the frits lately. 
Thanks to all who can help/
Brian.
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Message-ID: <3720F619.E83D9BF7@home.com>
Date: Fri, 23 Apr 1999 18:37:13 -0400
From: Brian Shankle <cshankle@home.com>
Organization: @Home Network
X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.05 [en]C-AtHome0404  (Win95; U)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: TCC solenoid on 700R4
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

I know that there is a TCC solenoid on my 700R4 trans, because it is
acting up, and I have had to unplug it to make the car driveable.  Where
is this located on this trans?  I know where the one is in the 200R4. 
Is it in the same place or completely different?  
Thanks,
Brian.

- --------------8D90E57E6BA5352DA75B4211--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 20:23:52 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Hershey this weekend!

RANDY A GEISEL wrote:
> 
> I'll be there..........I hope!
> 
> Randy

"Me too"

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 20:32:25 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: [Fwd: Suspension problem.]

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Not on the list, please email him privately if you've got any solutions
for him.  I already told him to get rid of the low profiles.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

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From: " Jon & Kathy Gyorke" <meatballs@desupernet.net>
To: <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Suspension problem.
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 19:53:01 -0400
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Paul Hartlieb,    I recently purchased a ' 93 '  Oldsmobile Achieva SC., =
and the ride is extremely hard. I am just looking everywhere for help in =
finding out what can be done to make this car ride smoother.  The =
previous owner put some low profile tires on it and I believe they =
probably don't help. The tires are still in good shape and I don't want =
to have to get 4 new tires.   I really like this car, but when you drive =
on any concrete highway the bumpy ride gives you a headache. I can't =
seem to get any help from the used car lot I bought it from.  Also I did =
have the rear shocks replaced already and it helped very little.  I'd =
appreciate a response whether it be helpful or not.  =20
                                                           Jon Gyorke

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
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<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Paul Hartlieb,&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I recently =
purchased a ' 93=20
'&nbsp; Oldsmobile Achieva SC., and the ride is extremely hard. I am =
just=20
looking everywhere for help in finding out what can be done to make this =
car=20
ride smoother.&nbsp; The previous owner put some low profile tires on it =
and I=20
believe they probably don't help. The tires are still in good shape and =
I don't=20
want to have to get 4 new tires.&nbsp;&nbsp; I really like this car, but =
when=20
you drive on any concrete highway the bumpy ride gives you a headache. I =
can't=20
seem to get any help from the used car lot I bought it from.&nbsp; Also =
I did=20
have the rear shocks replaced already and it helped very little.&nbsp; =
I'd=20
appreciate a response whether it be helpful or not.&nbsp;&nbsp; =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT=20
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
Jon Gyorke</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 19:39:48 -0500
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
Subject: RE: Dabury Mint Phone Number

	Glenn wrote:

	Could you please post the phone # to the Danbury Mint again. I
some how deleted the digest that it was in.


	Danbury Mint:  1-800-493-2934   (8 AM - Midnight ET 7 days a
week)
	        Fax line:   1-800-813-2670


	Take care,

Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
Columbus, MS         1987 442

http://www.442.com/newman.html               1987 442
http://www.442.com/newmantape.html        Centennial Tape Info.  
	   
	

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 20:41:57 -0400
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Me vrs. Speedshop

I have a similar thought that may not make much of a difference... but, 
wouldn't
the power also be down due to this being a fresh engine (rings, valve, etc not
seated)?
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a Jetaway and 2.73's :-(


RANDY A GEISEL wrote:

> Good point.......I degreed mine in per the spec sheet when I installed the
> first time. When I swapped blocks I re-installed the cam straight up to see
> what would happen. World of difference........nowhere near the power and
> engine would only wind to 4000.
>
> Randy
>
> > Just a thought on this. Are you sure the shop degreed in the Comp cam
> > correctly? Did they have the timing and carb adjusted correctly when it
> was
> > dynoed? Maybe it's crappy tuning.
> >
> > Omega Man
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > At 08:40 PM 4/22/99 EDT, you wrote:
> > >In a message dated 4/22/99 9:45:01 AM Central Daylight Time,
> > >hurst455@webtv.net writes:
> > >
> > ><< I`m tired
> > > of paying for things or services that fall well short of advertised.
> > > What can I do? >>
> > >Well,(opinion) you will have to pay  for the new cam; however, you should
> > >sternly remind the shop that you did not want the cam they insisted on
> > >installing. These guys should give you an "at cost" installation. Don't
> lay
> > >down, get the best deal you can! GET WHAT YOU ORDERED!
> > >You might get nothing, just remember, it is their problem also, it is
> > >unethical to promise one thing and deliver another. Don't feel guilty or
> > >uncomfortable confronting these guys.
> > >Chris
> > >70 455 Cutlass S
> > >
> >

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 20:51:26 -0400
From: "Mike McLeod" <mikemcleod@msn.com>
Subject: determining rear end ratio

I have certainly enjoyed the conversations in this group as I have only been
a member for a short time. I have a question about rear end ratios. Here is
what I did to check it. I had my Olds up on a hoist and I marked the rear
tire with a piece of chalk and continued that mark to  the frame ( to give
me a point of reference). I turned the tire one revolution while another
person counted the revolutions of the drive shaft ( I did not mark a
reference point on the shaft). The person counting the revolutions of the
shaft said " it went over 3 and a half times, almost". My rearend is stamped
SF( going by memory,think that is right). Now after doing this I wish I had
marked the driveshaft. Anyway after all of my rambling (sorry), I was
wondering if this is a fairly accurate way to figure my rear end ratio? Any
and all comments would be helpful. I have a lot more questions, but if I ask
some of them they may sound stupid, I am not a good mechanic but I LOVE my
Oldsmobiles.

Mike McLeod
70 W-30
97 Aurora

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 20:51:00 -0400
From: "Kelly McCuller" <kmcculler@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: What are these worth

I've got the "Oldsmobile" valve covers on my 442 - got them off a seventy
something Toronado 455. Thought they looked cool.


- -----Original Message-----
From: J&T <tjf26@gte.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, April 25, 1999 10:58 PM
Subject: What are these worth


>I just got some spare parts and I was wondering what these are worth.
>1. 72 455 4bbl 4 speed intake.
>2. 350 diesel exhaust manifolds
>3. 455 valve covers. Oldsmobile written in raised letters. What are these
from?
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 21:17:46 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: determining rear end ratio

That works if you have a posi rear.  The other tire shoud have been turning in
the same direction and the same rate as the one you were turning.  Sounds like 
a
3.42 rear, a common ratio.

Dude

Mike McLeod wrote:

> I have certainly enjoyed the conversations in this group as I have only been
> a member for a short time. I have a question about rear end ratios. Here is
> what I did to check it. I had my Olds up on a hoist and I marked the rear
> tire with a piece of chalk and continued that mark to  the frame ( to give
> me a point of reference). I turned the tire one revolution while another
> person counted the revolutions of the drive shaft ( I did not mark a
> reference point on the shaft). The person counting the revolutions of the
> shaft said " it went over 3 and a half times, almost". My rearend is stamped
> SF( going by memory,think that is right). Now after doing this I wish I had
> marked the driveshaft. Anyway after all of my rambling (sorry), I was
> wondering if this is a fairly accurate way to figure my rear end ratio? Any
> and all comments would be helpful. I have a lot more questions, but if I ask
> some of them they may sound stupid, I am not a good mechanic but I LOVE my
> Oldsmobiles.
>
> Mike McLeod
> 70 W-30
> 97 Aurora

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 21:20:32 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: determining rear end ratio

Mike,
Questions are never stupid.  People who are afraid to ask questions are stupid.
Sometimes the answers you get are stupid.
Dude

Mike McLeod wrote:

> I have certainly enjoyed the conversations in this group as I have only been
> a member for a short time. I have a question about rear end ratios. Here is
> what I did to check it. I had my Olds up on a hoist and I marked the rear
> tire with a piece of chalk and continued that mark to  the frame ( to give
> me a point of reference). I turned the tire one revolution while another
> person counted the revolutions of the drive shaft ( I did not mark a
> reference point on the shaft). The person counting the revolutions of the
> shaft said " it went over 3 and a half times, almost". My rearend is stamped
> SF( going by memory,think that is right). Now after doing this I wish I had
> marked the driveshaft. Anyway after all of my rambling (sorry), I was
> wondering if this is a fairly accurate way to figure my rear end ratio? Any
> and all comments would be helpful. I have a lot more questions, but if I ask
> some of them they may sound stupid, I am not a good mechanic but I LOVE my
> Oldsmobiles.
>
> Mike McLeod
> 70 W-30
> 97 Aurora

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 21:14:42 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: What are these worth

In a message dated 4/27/99 8:59:42 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
kmcculler@worldnet.att.net writes:

<< I just got some spare parts and I was wondering what these are worth.
 >1. 72 455 4bbl 4 speed intake.
 >2. 350 diesel exhaust manifolds
 >3. 455 valve covers. Oldsmobile written in raised letters. What are these
 from?
 > >>
They were on my 73 cutlass S 455/4spd 
Hot Rod Harry  <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/">HOT ROD HARRY'S 
OLDSMOBILES
</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 21:23:59 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Screwed up Email

To all you who complain about your computer being slow, I just received
an email from the list dated 4/19/99 9:44 PM.  Snail Mail?  Thank you
Southern New England Telephone.

Dude

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 21:16:52 EDT
From: OldsRokkit@aol.com
Subject: Olds 260 Gets a Bum Rap  (was: Re: 80' Supreme)

In a message dated 4/26/99 8:05:16 PM Central Daylight Time, 
lawrencj@coral.indstate.edu writes:

> I am getting my 2nd Cutlass very soon, it is a 80' Supreme with a
>  factory 260c.i. engine....The body is in good shape with a nice
>  interier!  My question is what good is a 260 engine?  I have had 350s
>  and 403s but never a 260!  What can i expect?  Does anyone know what the
>  factory H.P. rating for this engine is?

I've seen a lot of "260 bashing" on here.  I owned a '79 Cutlass 260 and was 
very happy with it overall.  It's not a performance car, but it IS very 
reliable and economical.  Sat outside and always started in MN winters, often 
at air temps of -30 degrees.  Averaged 19-20 MPG...18 in town and 23-24 on 
the highway @ 70MPH.  Pretty good for 8 cylinders being fueled by a 
carbuerator.  Even at 180,000 miles, it had full compression and used no oil. 
 Certainly seemed to have the durability of it's bigger (350-403) cousins.  
Depends on what you're looking for, I guess.  I loved mine and would love to 
find another in nice shape.

- -Drew in Windy Western Kansas-

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 19:44:47 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Different me against the machine shop.

Hi all,
	if the machine shop that assembled an engine didn't put in the little
baffle underneath the oil filler tube how much of a problem would this
be?

	I have a 455 sitting on the engine stand that a reasonably reputable
machine shop assembled and today I was looking through my old parts and
I found one of these baffles.  Unfortunately (or fortunately) I have a
lot of old Olds engine parts and I'm not 100% sure that this didn't come
out of another block.  I tried looking down the tube but without a
little mirror on a stick I can't see it.  I also tried to pull the tube
but it hasn't budged yet.

	I assume that this baffle is designed to stop oil from being splashed
up the tube so I'm assuming that an engine missing it might have oil
come out the top.  My current motor does this and it's tough to keep the
engine clean with oil being sprayed out the top of the tube :'0.
- -- 
Cliff Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 19:50:28 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: What are these worth

Kelly McCuller wrote:
> 
> I've got the "Oldsmobile" valve covers on my 442 - got them off a seventy
> something Toronado 455. Thought they looked cool.

I don't think they are rare, they are still available in many wreckers
on some seventies Cutlii.  I almost bought a set from a fellow list
member but the next time I looked under my hood I discovered that I
already had them.  Now I know that the original "notched" ones are
correct I think they are much cooler.

But the Oldsmobile ones are cooler than plain ones, IMHO,
- -- 
Cliff Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 21:52:33 -0400
From: "Robert Handren" <rhandren@mpinet.net>
Subject: One wire alternators

I heard from a buddy that one can convert a two wire internal regulated
alternator to a one wire (batt.) version with merely a jumper wire. Do any
of you know how to do this? I have a never used rebuilt internal regulator
alternator I'd like to convert. Makes wiring easier and less prone to
problems. I have one I paid too many bucks for in the 67 442 and love it.

If you can help please make sure any responses come to my e-mail acount, not
just the list.

I appreciate it. My goal is to make enough time to frequent the list once
again. When work allows and I finish the Olds projects.

Thanks!

Bob Handren
rhandren@mpinet.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 21:12:07 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: '72 disc brakes

no this was to mount the 73 through 80 brakes to a 64 through 72 A body
useful info though the fellow in this case is putting 72 brakes on a 68 car
easy near bolt on but he just needed to know where to find the details...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 1999 10:50 AM
Subject: Re: '72 disc brakes


>
> Kerry Kroger wrote:
> >
> > better would be a factory assy manual it will show bracket locations and
so
> > on that the service manual doesnt show or address I could tell you every
> > thing to do but there isnt enough space here and I hate to type...KK
>
> Is this similar to what's shown at http://www.mich.com/~crescend/drm2dsc/
?
>
> HTH
> --
>
> Cliff Simpson
> mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
> '69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
> http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 22:13:59 EDT
From: DKlauber@aol.com
Subject: Re: Buyers everywhere

I kept on getting emails that I ignored, but finally responded with...not for 
sale, but I guess anything is for sale if the price is right.  They countered 
with "money is no object, give us a price" A few weeks later my 71 was gone.  
Good news was that and a few thousand more $'s got me my 70 W-30 conv.  David

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 22:19:42 EDT
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Fwd: 442 Bumpers]

I always use silver or gray POR-15 on the back of new bumpers.
Peter
coupeking

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 21:20:53 -0500 (CDT)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Dr. Olds - K. Wood)
Subject: Vibrations Cont'd

Regarding the previous messages I have sent
looking for answers to a 75 MPH vibration.
I dropped the transmission today and the torque
converter fits very sloppily on the input shaft on
the transmission.  I am guessing that this would
not be right???  Anyway- I will have a new
transmission by the end of the week, and really
hope that solves the problem.  Also having a 
torque converter built 500-600 Rpm stall higher
than stock.  That should work nicely.

Here's hoping..
Kevin 
Dr-Olds@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 22:22:46 EDT
From: FIFTY7C@aol.com
Subject: Shock recommendation?

I have a 68 Cutlass Supreme/350. It has been lowered 2". Edelbrock indicates 
they have nothing that will fit. Can some of you pass on some suggestions for 
shocks that will help keep this car flat in the turns?

Thanks
Ray

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 21:26:25 -0500 (CDT)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Dr. Olds - K. Wood)
Subject: Rear Main Seal.

I have probably deleted right past the answers
I need now several times, but you never know
what info you need until it's time...  I have the
transmission out of my car and want to 
replace a leaking rear main seal.  I should have
very little problem sneaking the oil pan out, and
I have the new seal here.  I have heard about 
installing the seals a few degrees off of center.
Anyway- I have no experience whatsoever with
this proceedure.  I know that Joe has vast firsthand experience on this
one.  Any good hints?  I would greatly appreciate them... I will
be trying this happy project Wednesday evening.  I have my Chiltons and
Motors service manuals here, but they really don't 
cover this area too much.

Thanks!
Kevin D. Wood
Dr-Olds@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 21:30:31 -0500 (EST)
From: hurst455@webtv.net (Corey Putnam)
Subject: Re: Buyers everywhere

  It`s funny this thread is still going because a little earlier tonight
my wife came to the bedroom to tell me someone was out looking at my
car. I went out and the young gentleman asked what I wanted for it,
"it`s not for sale" I told him but of coarse I got the "everythings for
sale" reponse. I told him in my opinion my H/O was probably worth
between $5500 to $7000 but that it wouldn`t be worth it to me to get rid
of it for anything under $10,000. He didn`t quite understand the
reasoning behind this and started negotiating on a car that wasn`t even
for sale, offering me his 67 Impala (which he was trying to sell for
$1000) and $700 in cash. 
   I understand him wanting to own my car, but I don`t think he really
caught on that my Hurst means more to me than what the book price is.
After some grumbling he got the hint that the car was not  for sale, and
even if it was, he couldn`t have come close to the price. I remember
feeling that way about alot of cars when I was younger so I know what he
felt like walking away. He`ll get his nice ride one day, just like most
of us has. ( just not mine )

Corey Putnam
75 H/O W-30
87 Regal w/Olds 455
see these cars and more at;
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930
 


  
 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 19:29:31 -0700
From: Debbie Hill <debhill@home.com>
Subject: surprise email - can you help me?

I am Tom Lentz's sig other, and I would like to ask a favor:  it is
Tom's 30th birthday on Wednesday.  Please feel free to email him a
Birthday greeting!

he is at tlentz@home.com

Thanks.
- -Debbie

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 22:31:06 EDT
From: QWKCUTLASS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Different me against the machine shop.

Cliff, I have a 455 without that baffle, and i have no problems with oil 
shooting up the tube.  I used a cap that has a rubber seal on it so won't 
leak out, you might wanna do the same. 
Sam

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 21:31:39 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: part numbers  wasRe: 3.42 aftermarket Ring and Pinion question

the carrier is not available from richmond or just about any other source
for the type O diffy
but as I mentioned these gears fit the 3.23 or higher numerically carrier
basically this is what you get there are no other gearsets available for
this just these three if you mean the "Highway " gears 2.** or like that
most folks dont seem to want them and would probably practically give em to
ya as for the carrier well you just have to look around for it...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <TJACQUILLARD@InfoAve.Net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 1999 5:46 PM
Subject: Re: part numbers wasRe: 3.42 aftermarket Ring and Pinion question


> I APPRECIATE THIS VERY MUCH. I also might want to go to higher gears,
sometime.
> Do they have a part number for the carrier unit (posi)?
> thanx, T.J.
>
> Kerry Kroger wrote:
>
> > from richmonds catalog   the numbers are as follows
> > 3.42 49-0049-1
> > 3.90 49-0050-1
> > 4.10 69-0328-1
> >
> > these are for type-O only
> > footnote says fits 3.23 or numerically higher carrier1.626"dia 27 spline
> > pinion stem
> >
> >  I have bought 3.43 to 411 gears from richmond for my o axle ,got them
from
> >  summit, tell the salesman 12 bolt cover 10 bolt ring gear ,. I was not
> > smart
> >  enough to save the part #s
> >   Butch
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 22:35:09 EDT
From: QWKCUTLASS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Shock recommendation?

Ray, try some KYB gas adjusts or Herd Adams 3 way adjustables.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 21:39:57 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Shock recommendation?

I'm using Monroe Sensatrack shocks and they seem to work just fine I can out
corner a lot of cars...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <FIFTY7C@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 1999 9:22 PM
Subject: Shock recommendation?


> I have a 68 Cutlass Supreme/350. It has been lowered 2". Edelbrock
indicates
> they have nothing that will fit. Can some of you pass on some suggestions
for
> shocks that will help keep this car flat in the turns?
>
> Thanks
> Ray
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 21:54:40 -0700
From: Greg Kalkhoff <gkalkhof@mail.execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Compression Ring

Doug (the Smart Ass) Kitchener wrote:

> Step 1:  Rent new Intrigue.
> Step 2:  Pull engine out of Beater.
> Step 3:  Pull engine out of Flamer.
> Step 4:  Install Beater engine in Flamer.
> Step 5:  Rebuild bottom end of original Flamer engine.
> Step 6:  Install Flamer engine on stand for reserve.
> Step 6:  Part out Beater.
> 
> Qaplaa!  :)

Easy for YOU to type!

Actually, I've gotten some pretty interesting suggestions and approaches 
privately that 
sound like they might have a chance to work. I'm off tomorrow. I may try a few 
of them.

Sparky
- -- 
Greg "Sparky" Kalkhoff
Toronado Chapter Webmaster
Toronado FAQ Page Administrator
http://www.Toronado.org
See the Sparkmobile at: http://www.442.com/kalkhoff.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 22:51:58 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Published HP ratings in the late '70s

Frederick Nissen wrote:
> 
> The factory did publish HP and torque ratings for all engines available in
> Oldsmobiles in the late '70s.  This information, along with available axle
> ratios, etc. was contained in the "Engine Supplement Sheet"  furnished to
> dealers along with sales literature and ordering information.  I have copies
> of the sheets for '78 (printed in late '77).
> 
> Regards,
> Fred

Fred,

You're right.  '78 is the first year I have - probably prompted by the
350 fiasco of '77.  My '79s don't have the sheet.  My '80s have a sheet,
but no hp ratings given.  

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 21:57:31 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Different me against the machine shop.

>Hi all,
> if the machine shop that assembled an engine didn't put in the little
>baffle underneath the oil filler tube how much of a problem would this
>be?


Cliff,
The bad news is that you'd have to pretty much act like your changing
the timing chain.  The water pump, balancer, and timing cover would
all have to come off, along with everything else you'd have to take off
to get at them.  It sounds like the motors still on the stand so it would
be fairly easy to do, just take a few gaskets.  Best way to tell if it's
there is by probing with a coat hanger.  Pulling the oil fill tube will give
you a better look but won't help you out if it's missing.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 23:08:53 EDT
From: RARE73OLDS@aol.com
Subject: Even better pics of the 83 Hurst Olds

Re-scanned photos today...check them out...alot better
 <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html">HOT ROD HARRY'S 
OLDSMOBILES
</A>  or 
http://members.aol.com/magsurv/      

Harry   talk to you all soon....love these Oldsmobiles!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 20:25:28 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: determining rear end ratio

Mike McLeod wrote:
> 
> <snip> My rearend is stamped
> SF( going by memory,think that is right). 


Mike,

The SF code is a 3.23 Anti-Spin.  In the case of
your 1970 W-30, 3.23's were only available when
equipped with air cond.  Which was only available
with the TH400.


> <more snip> I have a lot more questions, but if I ask
> some of them they may sound stupid, 

As someone else said, the only stupid questions, are the
ones not asked.

<further snip>
> but I LOVE my
> Oldsmobiles.

That's all that matters!  Ask away.

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Web Site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 22:44:15 -0500
From: Mark <greenmm@earthlink.net>
Subject: Questions

2 questions:

1) Can someone explain what is meant by 10 bol and 12 bolt?  It is in
reference to rear-ends.

2) Is there a way to determine rear-end ratio of a non-posi rear-end
without actually counting the gears? (Opening the cover and such) 
People have mentioned turning one wheel and counting revolutions.  Does
this actually work?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 20:42:37 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Different me against the machine shop.

Cliff Simpson wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
>         if the machine shop that assembled an engine didn't put in the little
> baffle underneath the oil filler tube how much of a problem would this
> be?
> 
>         I have a 455 sitting on the engine stand that a reasonably reputable
> machine shop assembled and today I was looking through my old parts and
> I found one of these baffles.  Unfortunately (or fortunately) I have a
> lot of old Olds engine parts and I'm not 100% sure that this didn't come
> out of another block.  I tried looking down the tube but without a
> little mirror on a stick I can't see it.  I also tried to pull the tube
> but it hasn't budged yet.
> 
>         I assume that this baffle is designed to stop oil from being splashed
> up the tube so I'm assuming that an engine missing it might have oil
> come out the top.  My current motor does this and it's tough to keep the
> engine clean with oil being sprayed out the top of the tube :'0.



Cliff,

Unfortunately, since the baffle is offset in the
block from the fill tube (towards the center of the 
engine), you will not be able to see if it is in 
place by looking down the tube.  Although it can 
be seen with the tube removed.  I would suggest 
removing the tube (try rocking the tube back and 
forth to remove). If the baffle is not in place, 
the timing chain will sling oil up the tube at high 
rpm.  If it's not there, while the engine is on the 
stand, now would be the time to install it.  

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Web Site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 23:44:41 EDT
From: QWKCUTLASS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Questions

1. yes, and the 12 is a bigger stronger rear end
2. turning the tire gives you a close guess 

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1929
*********************************

