Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1980


oldsmobile-digest       Wednesday, May 26 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1980



Re: Master cylinder question
Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR SUSPENSION (SORRY ABOUT NON OLDS)
SHACK: Re: Post your Olds adds/links/pics/whatever here
Re: 70 Cutlass dashboard removal
Olds Day
Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR SUSPENSION (SORRY ABOUT NON OLDS)
Another new Olds nut
Re: Olds Day
Re: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breathe
Re: Another new Olds nut
Re: Olds Day
REPLACING REAR QUARTERS
Re: Olds Day
Re: SHACK: Re: Post your Olds adds/links/pics/whatever here
Re: 70 Cutlass dashboard removal
North East USA Car Shows?
Re: POR-15 / Chassis Coat black
Re: 70 Cutlass dashboard removal
Re: brake booster color?/vs plateing?
Re: Sorry to interrupt here.... was: New Website, need all your 
help		with this one!
Mark, and the others, reason behind Classic Cutlass.....
Re: SHACK: Re: Post your Olds adds/links/pics/whatever here
Re: Q-jet page
Re: Master cylinder (POR-15) question
frame cleaning
Mark Hahn's Calyx
Re: SHACK: Re: Post your Olds adds/links/pics/whatever here
Re: 70 Cutlass dashboard removal
Shack
Fw: F/S '82 Olds Toronado
Re: Going APESH*T over quadrajet carb
how high is high (ride height of Cutlass)
the meaning of PCV (was Valve cover breathers)
Re: 70 Cutlass dashboard removal
CBR900RR stories..(was Unread Message problem)
Jets and M Rod for a 403.
Hooker versus Hedman headers, how much better?
Re: torque convertor balance (was TH 400 Converter Balance)
Re: Hooker versus Hedman headers, how much better? (fwd)
Re: Hooker versus Hedman headers, how much better? (fwd)
OFF TOPIC POSTS (was Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR 
SUSPENSION....)
Re: Another new Olds nut
1969 cutlass
Re: North East USA Car Shows?
Re: 70 Cutlass dashboard removal
Re: Hooker versus Hedman headers, how much better? (fwd)
1950 Olds for sale
Re: OFF TOPIC POSTS (was Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR 
SUSPENSION....)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 13:02:18 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Master cylinder question

I do not think it was painted to start with.  I have read the other postings
on buffing it and placing clear on it.  I think it would be interesting to
buff it,  and paint it with POR clear.  That way the break fluid wont eat
off the clear.  I have not used the POR clear yet.  SO....."how clear is
it?"
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
To: Oldsmobile E-mail Ring <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 1999 10:28 AM
Subject: Master cylinder question


> Well, since my POR-15 arrived, the painting of the
> engine compartment is around the bend. I have a
> question though. Was the master cylinder painted at
> one time? How hard would this be to take off/clean/and
> get the POR-15 to stick to?
>
> TIA
> Del
>
> ===
> Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> rockman20@yahoo.com
> 1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
> 1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
> 1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
> (I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 11:57:29 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR SUSPENSION (SORRY ABOUT 
NON OLDS)

Doug;
No need to get surly, maybe he didn't have the other address. Plus, we are
all brothers on this list, we should help if we can.
Just delete it, no big deal.
Lou (Master) Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
oca#31353

- ----------
> From: Doug Ahern <doug@mail.RATH.PeachNet.EDU>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR SUSPENSION (SORRY
ABOUT NON OLDS)
> Date: Wednesday, May 26, 1999 11:38 AM
> 
> 
> First,  this is an olds list.  your question shouldn't have been posted
> here. try the mopar mailing list (http://www.rconcepts.com/beard/mopar/)
> there are people there that will be happy to see your post.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 13:08:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: dsenko@UU.NET (Drew Senko)
Subject: SHACK: Re: Post your Olds adds/links/pics/whatever here

> List,
> 
> www.classiccutlass.com
> 
> I need everyone to help me get this site going!  The technical reference 
will 
> take me long enough as it is!  The site is only 5 days old, and is 
definitely 
> in its infancy stage.  Haven't even started on the tech stuff yet, but I 
> wanted everyone to know it is in the works.  If you email me, please put 
> SHACK in the subject line so I am sure to see it!
> 
> Thanks
> 
> David Shackleton


David,

The members of this list spent much time compiling the information
that is in the FAQ, and it is already publicly available.  In
addition, Bryce accepts articles, pictures, and info for inclusion on
www.442.com.  I don't mean to rain on your parade, but 442.com has
been around and is established.  If I have info to relate, then it's
going to 442.com and/or the FAQ.  Centralized information is the most
useful tool that we have as enthusiasts and restorers, and thus far, the
focal point has been 442.com.

 --                    ______________                     _
Drew Senko            / Convertibles \                    |\
dsenko@uu.net         \_____Rule!____/     .__====-_._____|_\______
Vienna, VA, USA                     O      [   ___  |-     |  ___  \
http://members.aol.com/drewinva       o o  =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)
_______________________________________________\_/____________\_/_____

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 13:15:17 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: 70 Cutlass dashboard removal

There is no way around it.  Taking the dash off is a major PIA.  There are
several self tapping nuts on the back of the dash.  Limber-up its
garagemans' yoga time!  I found all of the nuts by the search and discover
method.  You have to un bolt the vent controlls from the back as well.  The
controls  will hold the dash in somewhat.  If I remember correctly there are
two screws holding it to the dash.  The speakers mount under the dash.  One
speaker in the center of dash,  and two under the package tray.  The holes
should already be there to mount them.  Hope this helps.
PS this is my experience with a 71 442 hard top.  I do not know if there is
a difference in the dashes or not.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Tee_Templeton@tivoli.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 1999 9:34 AM
Subject: 70 Cutlass dashboard removal


> I just bought a 1970 Cutlass convertible.  How do you get the dashboard
> off?  I need to figure out why the top vents don't work
> and I want to put in a new speaker(s) and a new radio (I'm not going to
cut
> into anything).   Any advice for speaker placement would be appreciated
> (i.e. where do you put them in the back?...or do you?)
>
> Thanks, Tee
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 12:14:17 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Olds Day

Going to take the 75 out for an afternoon cruise, about 80 degrees today.
Drive up and start the 67, been a month now. Noticed tranny fluid on the
floor of the garage. Was leaking and I put a tad of brake fluid in it and
it stopped, but it's back. Front seal, hate to pull the unit for that. One
of the problems associated with not driving enough. Back to the "drive or
not to drive" question. Always worry about water pump seal and a/cond seals
when they sit too long.

Lou (Master) Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
oca#31353

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 13:21:59 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR SUSPENSION (SORRY ABOUT 
NON OLDS)

I am with Mr. Biggs.  We all need all the help we can get.  Especially the
people with those mopars!:)-just kidding.  We all ask off topic questions
from time to time.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 1999 12:57 PM
Subject: Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR SUSPENSION (SORRY
ABOUT NON OLDS)


> Doug;
> No need to get surly, maybe he didn't have the other address. Plus, we are
> all brothers on this list, we should help if we can.
> Just delete it, no big deal.
> Lou (Master) Biggs
> lbiggs@intertek.net
> oca#31353
>
> ----------
> > From: Doug Ahern <doug@mail.RATH.PeachNet.EDU>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR SUSPENSION (SORRY
> ABOUT NON OLDS)
> > Date: Wednesday, May 26, 1999 11:38 AM
> >
> >
> > First,  this is an olds list.  your question shouldn't have been posted
> > here. try the mopar mailing list (http://www.rconcepts.com/beard/mopar/)
> > there are people there that will be happy to see your post.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 13:16:55 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Another new Olds nut

 
<A HREF="http://www.babyusa.com/isapi/details.asp?ID=90503051">USA Baby 
Pageants</A> Please vote for my son Shane(click on the blue area) in a baby 
photo contest.
Sorry about the none Olds content (he is our future for the Olds hobby)
Lou Biggs said I could post it  : )   
Thanks, talk to you all soon , Hot Rod Harry and Hot Wheels Shane

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 13:24:36 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Olds Day

Hi Lou CAN I GO TOOO!!  PLEASE!meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net>
To: Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 1999 1:14 PM
Subject: Olds Day


> Going to take the 75 out for an afternoon cruise, about 80 degrees today.
> Drive up and start the 67, been a month now. Noticed tranny fluid on the
> floor of the garage. Was leaking and I put a tad of brake fluid in it and
> it stopped, but it's back. Front seal, hate to pull the unit for that. One
> of the problems associated with not driving enough. Back to the "drive or
> not to drive" question. Always worry about water pump seal and a/cond
seals
> when they sit too long.
>
> Lou (Master) Biggs
> lbiggs@intertek.net
> oca#31353
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 13:17:18 -0400
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breathe

Just sold them to another list member.
Ed

- -----Original Message-----


>ed,
>are the valve covers new and how much do you want for them? and are they
for a
>70- 455 442?
>
>Ed Binnix wrote:
>
>> This one I can answer! The M/T Valve covers have a punch out hole in
them. I
>> have two sets on for use and one for sale (hint, hint, everyone).
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>
>> >
>> >I've always been confused on this part here. I just
>> >ordered the Holley polished aluminum M/T valve covers
>> >from Summit. They look like they don't have a breather
>> >on either of them. How does this work? Don't you need
>> >some type of a vent in there?
>> >===
>> >Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
>> >rockman20@yahoo.com
>> >1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
>> >1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For
Sale)
>> >1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
>> >(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
>> >_________________________________________________________
>> >Do You Yahoo!?
>> >Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>> >
>> >
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 12:25:43 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Another new Olds nut

ALL,
Lets help this guy out, I know it's non Olds, but he is going to drive one
when he gets big, we must think of the future.
Lou
PS Didn't say he could, I said he should! Only Greg can say that.


> <A HREF="http://www.babyusa.com/isapi/details.asp?ID=90503051">USA Baby 
> Pageants</A> Please vote for my son Shane(click on the blue area) in a
baby 
> photo contest.
> Sorry about the none Olds content (he is our future for the Olds hobby)
> Lou Biggs said I could post it  : )   
> Thanks, talk to you all soon , Hot Rod Harry and Hot Wheels Shane

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 12:27:50 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Olds Day

Steve;
Sure, you can get here in three hours or less.
Lou

- ----------
> From: steve harris <meso@pamlico.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Olds Day
> Date: Wednesday, May 26, 1999 12:24 PM
> 
> Hi Lou CAN I GO TOOO!!  PLEASE!meso@pamlico.net
> Steve
> North Carolina

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 13:34:22 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: REPLACING REAR QUARTERS

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I am about to sail into uncharted waters,  and the ocean is look'in =
rough!  I need to replace both quarter panels on my 71 olds 442 hard =
top.  I have had some pratice with body work.(I had me some book =
learn'in at the big school)  I would like any tips or tricks the list =
can offer.  Maybe even a prayer or two would help.  Ideas for a good =
reference book would be good too.  I have read too many horor stories =
about body shops to trust my baby to just anyone.=20
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html

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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I am about to sail into uncharted waters,&nbsp; and =
the ocean=20
is look'in rough!&nbsp; I need to replace both quarter panels on my 71 =
olds 442=20
hard top.&nbsp; I have had some pratice with body work.(I had me some =
book=20
learn'in at the big school)&nbsp; I would like any tips or tricks the =
list can=20
offer.&nbsp; Maybe even a prayer or two would help.&nbsp; Ideas for a =
good=20
reference book would be good too.&nbsp; I have read too many horor =
stories about=20
body shops to trust my baby to just anyone. </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A><BR>Steve<BR>North=20
Carolina<BR>ICQ#26466860<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html">http://members.xoo=
m.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html</A></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_008B_01BEA77C.76A8A660--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 13:43:39 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Olds Day

I dont think the old F*rd pick'em truck will go that fast.  Have fun tho!
Thanks
Steve
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 1999 1:27 PM
Subject: Re: Olds Day


> Steve;
> Sure, you can get here in three hours or less.
> Lou
>
> ----------
> > From: steve harris <meso@pamlico.net>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Re: Olds Day
> > Date: Wednesday, May 26, 1999 12:24 PM
> >
> > Hi Lou CAN I GO TOOO!!  PLEASE!meso@pamlico.net
> > Steve
> > North Carolina
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 12:38:26 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: SHACK: Re: Post your Olds adds/links/pics/whatever here

wow that is a little pig headed I would allow anyone who has a site to post
anything bryces site is nice and the FAQ is copyrighted but any other info
it wouldnt hurt to help the guy out you dont have to be mean...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Drew Senko <dsenko@UU.NET>
To: olds <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 26, 1999 12:08 PM
Subject: SHACK: Re: Post your Olds adds/links/pics/whatever here


> > List,
> >
> > www.classiccutlass.com
> >
> > I need everyone to help me get this site going!  The technical reference
will
> > take me long enough as it is!  The site is only 5 days old, and is
definitely
> > in its infancy stage.  Haven't even started on the tech stuff yet, but I
> > wanted everyone to know it is in the works.  If you email me, please put
> > SHACK in the subject line so I am sure to see it!
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > David Shackleton
>
>
> David,
>
> The members of this list spent much time compiling the information
> that is in the FAQ, and it is already publicly available.  In
> addition, Bryce accepts articles, pictures, and info for inclusion on
> www.442.com.  I don't mean to rain on your parade, but 442.com has
> been around and is established.  If I have info to relate, then it's
> going to 442.com and/or the FAQ.  Centralized information is the most
> useful tool that we have as enthusiasts and restorers, and thus far, the
> focal point has been 442.com.
>
>  --                    ______________                     _
> Drew Senko            / Convertibles \                    |\
> dsenko@uu.net         \_____Rule!____/     .__====-_._____|_\______
> Vienna, VA, USA                     O      [   ___  |-     |  ___  \
> http://members.aol.com/drewinva       o o  =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)
> _______________________________________________\_/____________\_/_____
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 11:44:11 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: 70 Cutlass dashboard removal

steve harris wrote:
> 
> There is no way around it.  Taking the dash off is a major PIA.  There are
> several self tapping nuts on the back of the dash.  Limber-up its
> garagemans' yoga time!  I found all of the nuts by the search and discover
> method.  You have to un bolt the vent controlls from the back as well.  The
> controls  will hold the dash in somewhat.  If I remember correctly there are
> two screws holding it to the dash.  The speakers mount under the dash.  One
> speaker in the center of dash,  and two under the package tray.  

I don't know if this is true for Olds's or not but some A-bodies have a single
speaker in the middle for non-A/C cars and a speaker on each side for A/C
cars.  Very useful if you want to have a 4 speaker system in a non-A/C car. 
Just "rescue" a dashpad from a A/C car.

Just an observation,
- -- 

Cliff "Surround Sound" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 10:53:30 -0700
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: North East USA Car Shows?

Hey List!,
	I'm going to be heading back to my old stomping ground of upstate NY
for the upcoming Woodstock fest this year, and was wondering if anyone has
heard of any car shows, or swap meets for the last week of July?
	I'm going to check Hemming's online, but does anyone have any other
suggestions for finding car shows?

Steve Reed
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 10:59:43 -0700
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re: POR-15 / Chassis Coat black

>Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 22:08:32 -0500
>From: Dan Williams <442much@home.com>
>Subject: Re: POR-15 / Chassis Coat black

>I did use foam brushes when applying the Chassis coat black, and it did
>not come out very good at all.  So, today I called the company and they
>agreed to send me another can of the Chassis coat.  They did agree that
>it was thicker than POR-15, but I should not have had the problems I
>did.  They figured maybe I got a can that had been exposed to air and
>had already begun to set up.  

>The best solution they could come up was to use some 400 grit sandpaper
>to remove the old Chassis coat.  I have heard that you can use thinner
>or brake fluid on a rag and wipe very gently (and carefully) to remove
>runs in the paint and brush marks.  Anybody have any good ideas?

>- -Dan

Dan,
	Like I wrote previously I am going to be doing my frame again this
weekend.  The frame was painted about 5 years ago, but from sitting in a
dirt field the undercarriage has become crusted in a mud-type of film.  I'll
try the 400 grit paper this weekend on mine and let you know how that works
out for me.  I was going to use a scrub brush with a bucket of soapy water
and try that first before applying a new top coat.
	I'll also let you (List) know how the viscosity of the Chassis coat
black is in my batch.  I got 2 cans about a month ago.  Since you did apply
it with a foam brush like I did it is weird that we had different results.
I'll let ya know how things work out, as long as it's not pouring down on me
when I'm removing the frame/body assembly this weekend..  Although that
would be the perfect weather to paint the frame!

Steve Reed
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 13:57:36 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 70 Cutlass dashboard removal

When you say the top vents don't work, are you refering to the defroster vents
or the upper A/C vents?  In either case, I suspect that the problem is not
something requiring the removal of the dash.  The flapper doors which control
the airflow are themselves controlled by vacuum switched in the heater-A/C
control panel.  Chances are that either a hose has come off or the vac 
diaphragm
has gone bad.  In either case, removal of the dash is not required (and is 
quite
difficult, as others have noted).

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 13:53:20 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: brake booster color?/vs plateing?

anyone have any comments on the eastwood paint set up?...
______

Yes.  First, it requires care and skill to get a decent looking job, and 
second,
it will still look like paint.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 13:40:58 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Sorry to interrupt here.... was: New Website, need all your 
help		with this one!

Well, actually I bet Joe sticks a big block in his "lawn tractor"....
______
Funny you should mention that, Don.  As Don points out, my new farm requires 
the
purchase of a tractor.  Obviously a new unit is out of the question, so
_naturally_ I'm scouring the land for a nice used mid-60s Deere.  One of the
interesting facts I've found out is that the larger of these were made with 404
and even 531 cu in engines, albeit inline 6 cylinder units.  Do I need a 
tractor
anywhere close to that size?  Of course not...  What's your point?

Seriously (and for gratuitous Olds content), I'm looking for a 2520 or 3020 JD,
preferably with a front end loader.  This will allow me to not only shovel
manure but also will be invaluable in the construction of my dream shop for
housing and rebuilding the Oldsmofleet.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 14:01:39 EDT
From: Dshack4@aol.com
Subject: Mark, and the others, reason behind Classic Cutlass.....

Mark, 

Thanks for the post, and I am glad you love 442.com so much, but you will not 
discourage me from making my site helpful to others, whoever may stumble upon 
it.  I am not trying to copy anyones, or even piss anyone off.  I am making 
this page for me.  I have been making homepages for the Marine Corps since 
1993, and figured it was time to do something for myself for once in a while. 
 So, in all words, I am glad that 442.com is a centralized location for all 
of you salty Olds guys.  I am 28 years, been an Olds fan since I was old 
enough to drive.  Maybe not as old time as you and the others, but don't try 
to discourage me from learning and helping others to learn about Oldsmobiles. 
 If this is your attitude, what's the sense of even emailing me back?  If 
you're not gonna help, then ignore my request and stop being so negative.


David Shackleton  "Shack"
71 442 W-30
United States Marine Corps, Semper Fi
www.classiccutlass.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 12:51:06 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: SHACK: Re: Post your Olds adds/links/pics/whatever here

Drew, I think this is not how you should approach someone that tries to 
add an info site to the world of oldsmobiles. Yes, 442.com is very large 
and nice but competition (even in its early days) usually helps to widen 
the info and the services out there which is good for all of us. 

I think we should all show our support and send David pics of our cars 
and place ads also on his site. Brycemans site may be perfect for our 
needs but sometimes things change... no offense but what happens for 
example if the ads will not be free any more on 442.com at some point? 
Well, if you don't have another place to go you will end up paying 
fees... also, what happens if Bryceman does not want to continue and 
gives the site to someone not so reasonable in his manners ???

A smaller site will be able to handle our needs more personal then the 
high volume 442 site. If you place a classified ad on 442 and look at the 
instructions you can already sense the strictness and regulation that any 
big site has to maintain...

Well, just my 0.02. This group has always been open to newcomers and it 
should also be open to web-newcomers that try to add something to the 
info available. I am absolutely positive that there is a big junk of 
things left to get even close in completing our need for info...

Regards, George

- ---------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
- ---------------------

On Wed, 26 May 1999, Drew Senko wrote:

> > List,
> > 
> > www.classiccutlass.com
> > 
> > I need everyone to help me get this site going!  The technical reference 
will 
> > take me long enough as it is!  The site is only 5 days old, and is 
definitely 
> > in its infancy stage.  Haven't even started on the tech stuff yet, but I 
> > wanted everyone to know it is in the works.  If you email me, please put 
> > SHACK in the subject line so I am sure to see it!
> > 
> > Thanks
> > 
> > David Shackleton
> 
> 
> David,
> 
> The members of this list spent much time compiling the information
> that is in the FAQ, and it is already publicly available.  In
> addition, Bryce accepts articles, pictures, and info for inclusion on
> www.442.com.  I don't mean to rain on your parade, but 442.com has
> been around and is established.  If I have info to relate, then it's
> going to 442.com and/or the FAQ.  Centralized information is the most
> useful tool that we have as enthusiasts and restorers, and thus far, the
> focal point has been 442.com.
> 
>  --                    ______________                     _
> Drew Senko            / Convertibles \                    |\
> dsenko@uu.net         \_____Rule!____/     .__====-_._____|_\______
> Vienna, VA, USA                     O      [   ___  |-     |  ___  \
> http://members.aol.com/drewinva       o o  =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)
> _______________________________________________\_/____________\_/_____
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 11:16:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Q-jet page

I would be interested in a copy of this scan when you get it.  

THanks,
     Stefan
     1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
     70Cutlass@Beer.com

- --- Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com> wrote:
> the person who sent the link to the qjet performance mods page
> Thanks,  the
> fellow who is mentioned on the page Jim Hand I know this guy he used
> to race
> pontiac wagons at KCIR
> they wer daily drivers and ran in the low 12s he had two a 61
> catalina and a
> 71 lemans with GTO appearance package, he built them both and his
> philosophy
> is knowledge outdoes money all the time he had miriad cheap tuning
> tricks I
> have saved a magazine article about his wagon (the 71) for a lot of
> years it
> discusses many low buck tuning tricks he used if anyone would like to
> read
> it let me know and I will scan the pages and e-mail them to anyone
> who wants
> it many of the tricks would translate to olds engines too.....KK
> 
> 

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 11:16:07 -0700
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re: Master cylinder (POR-15) question

>Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 07:28:36 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
>Subject: Master cylinder question

>Well, since my POR-15 arrived, the painting of the
>engine compartment is around the bend. I have a
>question though. Was the master cylinder painted at
>one time? How hard would this be to take off/clean/and
>get the POR-15 to stick to? 

>TIA
>Del

Del,
	I did the Master cylinder on my car ('70 Cutlass) and it was very
easy to do.  You have to just remove the 2 (3/8" I believe) nuts holding the
master onto the power booster's studs, and the brake lines going to the
master.  You want to remove the brake lines prior to removing it from the
power booster; it makes it easier to do when it's still firmly bolted in
place.
	The only problem I have had with mine is the 'Cast Iron' spray paint
has flaked a little bit, even though I use silicon fluid in my brake system.
Maybe I didn't apply a thick enough coat.

Steve Reed
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 14:25:59 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: frame cleaning

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_003D_01BEA783.AD176AE0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Steve Reed
Austin, TX

>"The frame was painted about 5 years ago, but from sitting in a
>dirt field the undercarriage has become crusted in a mud-type of film. =
"

Steve,
I used a wire wheel on my electric drill to clean my frame.  I had to =
have two different shapes to get all the nooks and crannies.  I had a =
cone shape and the classic wheel shape.  If you have an angle grinder =
with a wire wheel on it that will work better.  Once all the heavy =
goobers where off I cleaned it with Marine Clean from POR.  It is just =
an idea I thought would make life easier for ya.  Hope it helps.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html



- ------=_NextPart_000_003D_01BEA783.AD176AE0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Steve Reed<BR>Austin, TX<BR></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&gt;"The frame was painted about 5 years ago, but =
from sitting=20
in a<BR>&gt;dirt field the undercarriage has become crusted in a =
mud-type of=20
film.&nbsp;"</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Steve,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I used a wire wheel on my electric drill to clean my =

frame.&nbsp; I had to have two different shapes to get all the nooks and =

crannies.&nbsp; I had a cone shape and the classic wheel shape.&nbsp; If =
you=20
have an angle grinder with a wire wheel on it that will work =
better.&nbsp; Once=20
all the heavy goobers where off I cleaned it with Marine Clean from =
POR.&nbsp;=20
It is just an idea I thought would make life easier for ya.&nbsp; Hope =
it=20
helps.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A><BR>Steve<BR>North=20
Carolina<BR>ICQ#26466860<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html">http://members.xoo=
m.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><BR>&nbsp;</DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_003D_01BEA783.AD176AE0--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 11:20:53 -0700
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Mark Hahn's Calyx

List,
	Below is text copied from the e-mails I bounced back and forth with
Mark Hahn.  His E-Mail address is listed below.  I didn't want to give out
his personal address, so contact him directly about buying this stuff.

Steve Reed
Austin, TX

***********************************
The name of this stuff is Calyx.
It is a paste that comes in a 2.75 oz. container. That is enough to do
3-4 pairs of sb manifolds. A little goes a long way. It can be used on
all bare cast iron parts. Brake drums, master cylinders, blocks.
Although it works best when exposed to high temps. It works on headers
too.
It will not burn and is non-toxic and you can wash it off your hands
with soap and water.
I know this may sound like "snake oil" stuff but i have tested it and it
works. I used a wire brush on an old piece of cast iron pipe. (just to
knock the crud off) I used my fingers to rub some Calyx into the cleaned
part and it looked like new. I then put a propane torch flame on it for
10 minutes. (it was hotter than hell) after cooling down it still looked
new.
The company offers a money back guarantee.
The price is $16.95 post paid.
If you want some of this stuff or have any questions contact me
privately.


All I need is a check or money order for $16.95.
Make it out to Mark Hahn
mahahn@fuse.net
Send to: Mark Hahn
             XXX XXX St.
             XXXXX, Ohio XXXX
Upon receipt of your payment I will send the Calyx to you the next
business day via the US mail. Inclosed will be a 2.75 oz. container of
Calyx and detailed instructions for application and use.
I will also include my phone number in case you have any questions.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 14:31:33 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: SHACK: Re: Post your Olds adds/links/pics/whatever here

I agree with George. Although the main theme of David's page seems to be
big block cutlass/442, I'd suggest also adding a section for the '73/'74
Omega. Rare guys like me and Jim-Bow and a few Omega guys not on the list
just don't get any support. We're Olds folks too but we don't get much
respect. Just a thought since Shack was asking for suggestions. Whiny face
put away now.

Omega Man
'74 Omega S 455/auto
'74 Omega 455/4spd (eventually)





At 12:51 PM 5/26/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>Drew, I think this is not how you should approach someone that tries to 
>add an info site to the world of oldsmobiles. Yes, 442.com is very large 
>and nice but competition (even in its early days) usually helps to widen 
>the info and the services out there which is good for all of us. 
>
>I think we should all show our support and send David pics of our cars 
>and place ads also on his site. Brycemans site may be perfect for our 
>needs but sometimes things change... no offense but what happens for 
>example if the ads will not be free any more on 442.com at some point? 
>Well, if you don't have another place to go you will end up paying 
>fees... also, what happens if Bryceman does not want to continue and 
>gives the site to someone not so reasonable in his manners ???
>
>A smaller site will be able to handle our needs more personal then the 
>high volume 442 site. If you place a classified ad on 442 and look at the 
>instructions you can already sense the strictness and regulation that any 
>big site has to maintain...
>
>Well, just my 0.02. This group has always been open to newcomers and it 
>should also be open to web-newcomers that try to add something to the 
>info available. I am absolutely positive that there is a big junk of 
>things left to get even close in completing our need for info...
>
>Regards, George
>
>---------------------
>'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
>---------------------
>
>On Wed, 26 May 1999, Drew Senko wrote:
>
>> > List,
>> > 
>> > www.classiccutlass.com
>> > 
>> > I need everyone to help me get this site going!  The technical
reference will 
>> > take me long enough as it is!  The site is only 5 days old, and is
definitely 
>> > in its infancy stage.  Haven't even started on the tech stuff yet, but I 
>> > wanted everyone to know it is in the works.  If you email me, please put 
>> > SHACK in the subject line so I am sure to see it!
>> > 
>> > Thanks
>> > 
>> > David Shackleton
>> 
>> 
>> David,
>> 
>> The members of this list spent much time compiling the information
>> that is in the FAQ, and it is already publicly available.  In
>> addition, Bryce accepts articles, pictures, and info for inclusion on
>> www.442.com.  I don't mean to rain on your parade, but 442.com has
>> been around and is established.  If I have info to relate, then it's
>> going to 442.com and/or the FAQ.  Centralized information is the most
>> useful tool that we have as enthusiasts and restorers, and thus far, the
>> focal point has been 442.com.
>> 
>>  --                    ______________                     _
>> Drew Senko            / Convertibles \                    |\
>> dsenko@uu.net         \_____Rule!____/     .__====-_._____|_\______
>> Vienna, VA, USA                     O      [   ___  |-     |  ___  \
>> http://members.aol.com/drewinva       o o  =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)
>> _______________________________________________\_/____________\_/_____
>> 
>> 
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 11:33:11 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: 70 Cutlass dashboard removal

Cliff wrote:

> I don't know if this is true for Olds's or not but
> some A-bodies have a single
> speaker in the middle for non-A/C cars and a speaker
> on each side for A/C
> cars.  Very useful if you want to have a 4 speaker
> system in a non-A/C car. 
> Just "rescue" a dashpad from a A/C car.
> 
> Just an observation,
===============================
My 69 Cutlass has the speaker hole in the metal part
of the dash and not the pad. It was originally an AC
equipped car and there is only one 4 X 10 in the
center of the dash.

Del
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 13:48:18 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Shack

David;
Don't have your email address, sorry all for non content.
Lou 
lbiggs@intertek.net
oca#31353

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 14:54:16 -0400
From: "Brad Nicholson" <brad442@mdo.net>
Subject: Fw: F/S '82 Olds Toronado

Frwarding to the list.
Usual disclaimers apply
- -----Original Message-----
From: John Otte <otte@afcea.org>
To: 'brad442@erols.com' <brad442@erols.com>
Date: Tuesday, May 25, 1999 2:43 PM
Subject: Olds Toronado


>Brad:
>
>Thought I'd give your Olds chapter a heads-up that I've got an '82
>Toronado for sale in the DC area, (Reston, VA), in case there was anybody
>interested in this particular model.  It's solid, runs well, has the
>gasoline V-8 and 4 new Firestones.  I'm asking $1000.  Feel free to
>forward this info to whoever might be interested.  I'll have an ad in
>the Post this weekend (5/28-30) under the Antiques/Classics section.
>Thanks!
>
>John Otte
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 14:50:38 -0400
From: Miguel Morales <Mike.Morales@wcom.com>
Subject: Re: Going APESH*T over quadrajet carb

Dear Jeff:

I'd suggest first seeing if the MC control Solenoid was adjusted properly when
replaced. If they havent put plugs on the air horn, you  should see the needle
holder inside the carb.. That part with engine not running should move 5/32
inches vertically. It is held to that range by a stop screw on the air horn and
the number of turns the lean screw was backed out. The lean screw (it's chrome
and inside the bottom spring of the MC solenoid set, should be backed out
minimally once it's screwed down all the way, it can be turned with the proper
tool on the car if the holes in the tower haven't been plugged up.

On my H/O Quad, the number of turns was 1 3/4 to 2 counter-clockwise after
turning it in all the way. The other screw in the air horn is adjusted by
placing the ait horn on the carb with gasket in place until the needle hanger
(piston) travel is the 5/32 inches I mentioned above. Turning the large buttom
shaped screw clockwise gives you more travel while the opposite shortens the
travel.

That should cure your your off-idle circuit operation as well as off-choke 
miss.
Also, make sure all required check ball bearings are in place underneath the MC
Solenoid when you remove the large screw in the bowl. There is also a ball on
the Accelerator Pump assembly that an incompetent rebuilder could forget to
install. That could mess you up real bad.

Hope this Helps

Mike.Morales@wcom.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 11:45 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: how high is high (ride height of Cutlass)

Some days ago I asked what the stock ride-height of my '72 Supreme 
was, and Paul Hartlieb very kindly provided me with that information. 
Thanks, Paul! For the F42 suspension A-body coupes it was 10.75" in 
the front, 10.55" at the back. (Measured 1" and 64" behind the front 
edge of the front door, from the outer bottom edge of the rocker 
panel).

My '72 now has 225/60/16 tires on 16x8 Firebird allow wheels, and 
Hotckis springs all around. I measured the ride height at about 
8 3/4" in front, and almost exactly the same - maybe 9" - at the back.

I still find my Supreme looks kinda tall and high off the ground, but 
it was some comfort to find out that it is actually some 2 inches 
lower in front and 1 1/2 inches lower at the back than stock! 

Interesting rule of thumb I came across - for conventional front OHV 
v8/rear drive American sedans from the era we're interested in, the 
centre of gravity of the car is roughly as high off the ground as the 
camshaft is.

That's why I want my car lower, for better handling in the turns. As 
soon as I get my front suspension completely rebuilt (it still needs 
new tie-rod ends, idler arm, drag link, and a rebuilt steering gear) 
I'll plug in my GTech and find out what lateral acceleration figures 
my Olds can actually reach. I'm guessing that even with all the mods 
on it now I'll be somewhere behind a new minivan, say 0.75g or so....

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 11:50 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: the meaning of PCV (was Valve cover breathers)

Ron Forsee wrote:
<snipped>
>Just to throw in my opinion...the PCV was used not to provide for 
>crankcase ventilation, but to recycle those nasty old vapors. 
- -----------------------------

That's funny, considering that PCV stands for "positive crankcase 
ventilation" :)  !

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 13:03:39 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: 70 Cutlass dashboard removal

Rock Man wrote:
> My 69 Cutlass has the speaker hole in the metal part
> of the dash and not the pad. It was originally an AC
> equipped car and there is only one 4 X 10 in the
> center of the dash.

Ah, yes, but this fellow has one of them new fangled 70's cars so I thought it
might be similar to my wife's Maliboo.  I was told that the speakers were moved
to the sides in order to make room for the A/C but since yours had air and a
center speaker who knows?  I should also have noted that the A/C dashpad that
we bought has small holes so we could only run ~3.5" speakers.

Still, beats cutting the doorpanels or the kickboards to get four speaker
sound.
- -- 

Cliff "Quadraphilia" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 12:01 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: CBR900RR stories..(was Unread Message problem)

Andy Lawrence wrote:
>
> Hey guys,
>
>     I wrecked my CBR900RR about 2 weeks ago, i have been in the 
hospital since
____________________________________________

Matt Cremean wrote:

>Wow. A guy I know just wrecked his too!!! He was cocked and nobody 
>would give him his keys, so he hopped on his bike instead. He was 
>pulling a wheelie and forgot that the road curved until it was too 
>late. He ended up in one person's front yard and the bike ended up in 
>the yard next to it. He was kinda goofed up for a while, but I guess 
>he's okay now.
____________________________________________

A friend of mine owned a CBR900RR some years ago, he got on the power 
a little too early going around a bend and the back slid out; he eased 
of the power to try to compensate, the rear tire suddenly bit again, 
and the bike flipped over, throwing him into the street. Fortunately 
all that happened was that he broke a wrist.

Those are incredibly fast bikes, but soooooo twitchy and easy to lose!

Later the bike was stolen; he bought a replacement a year ago, it was 
stolen within *DAYS* of its purchase. Three weeks ago he was riding 
his other bike (also a Honda, I forget the model) when a car pulled 
out in front of him. In the resulting crash the bike was totalled and 
he fractured his leg. 

Olds content:  I'm glad my Olds has 4 wheels, and steel all around me, 
even though that makes it too heavy to ever accelerate anything like a 
CBR900RR! (If I remember right, the CBR does 0-60 in about 2.8 
seconds, or almost exactly an average of 1 g acceleration.)

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 14:26:42 -0500
From: "Ian M. C. Dixon" <iand@sbrc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Jets and M Rod for a 403.

I'm running a 72 jet with a 43K rod in my Q-jet that sits on my 
newly rebuilt 403 (@ 0.030 over = 409CID) SB, and the engine is 
definitely running lean.  I don't want to overheat this new engine, so 
I think a rejet is in order.  I've heard that 73 (thanks Fred) is the 
stock jet (non-CA) for this engine at sea level.  Although I can play, 
would 74 jet/45K metering rod sound about right as a start point?  
This car (1982 Toro) will be a daily driver.

Thanks,
 
Ian
Winnipeg, Canada 
 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 13:32:12 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Hooker versus Hedman headers, how much better?

Hi all,
	since I've come to the conclusion that 1) it would be much easier to 
replace
my headers with the engine out of the car (true?), 2) the 10+ year old rusty
bent and patched pipes should be replaced and c) Hooker makes the best headers
for Olds A-bodies, I priced out a set.  Apparently they are made from
platinum/beryllium alloy!  They are over $300 US up here.

	The Hedman headers are about $100 US less so I was wondering what bad
experiences people have had with them.  Do they require more beating to fit or
do they not flow well?  And if I'm going to be spending the big bucks, how much
worse would the W/Z manifolds flow?  Can cast iron exhausts be smoothed and
worked to get closer to headers?

I would appreciate any information,
- -- 

Cliff "Rusty" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 12:10 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: torque convertor balance (was TH 400 Converter Balance)

BOYD DONALD R wrote:

>Is the 455 externally balanced?  Meaning, is the torque converter
>specifically "unbalanced" or is it "Zero balanced"?  I'm asking since 
>my transmission seems to be in its death throes, and the guy I'm 
>taking it to had a real hard time coming up with a properly balanced 
>converter for the Torque Flite 727 in my GTX.  I figure it'll be 
>easier on him if it's zero balance...
_______________________________________

Just want to let you know that B&M makes flexplates for the Torque 
Flite transmissions that are offset weighted for various factory 
engines. You can use any of the zillions of suitable zero-balanced 
torque convertors from the aftermarket  with one of these weighted 
flexplates, and have no balancing worries.

By the way, Mopar Performance also sells suitably offset-weighted 
torque convertors for several musclecar engine applications, as long 
as you only want the factory original stall speed.

Sorry, I don't know the answer to your 455 question, but if you ever 
build up another Mopar you know what to do!

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 340 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 14:33:04 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Hooker versus Hedman headers, how much better? (fwd)

Cliff wrote:
1) it would be much easier to replace my headers with the engine out of 
   the car (true?)

Well, it does not make any difference actually. You will have to take the 
headers off before you get the engine out and you will have to reinstall 
them when after the engine is in. 

It would be better to say: If I take out the engine it comes in handy to 
take off the old headers before pulling it and put on the new ones when 
reinstalling the headers... anyhow you are right: This is a good time to 
put on new headers... Think I had too much coffee...

Regards, George 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 12:55:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Hooker versus Hedman headers, how much better? (fwd)

- --- George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu> wrote:

> Well, it does not make any difference actually. You
> will have to take the 
> headers off before you get the engine out and you
> will have to reinstall 
> them when after the engine is in. 
> 
> It would be better to say: If I take out the engine
> it comes in handy to 
> take off the old headers before pulling it and put
> on the new ones when 
> reinstalling the headers... anyhow you are right:
> This is a good time to 
> put on new headers... Think I had too much coffee...
================================

I'm hoping my first time experience with installing
headers will be nice. Considering that the engine is
out, the wheel wells are off, and the whole front
radiator core support is off! :-) I'm glad I had to
replace that since the accident. It's gonna make my
suspension work easier also.

Del
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 15:56:13 -0400
From: Doug Ahern <doug@mail.RATH.PeachNet.EDU>
Subject: OFF TOPIC POSTS (was Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR 
SUSPENSION....)

this list is an oldsmobile list covering cars from 1902 to 1999, that
should give us plenty to talk about.  there is no need to ask questions
or relate stories concerning non-oldsmobile autos!  if an off-topic
post comes in it should either be ignored or answered privately off-line.
but that torsion bar thread generated 5-6 messages!!  and along side
that one is a motorcycle thread....

list members looking to find lists for other topics should consider going
to some the major search sites and searching for keywords to help find
that list (i.e. "mopar+mailing+list"),  or find the webring at webring.org
associated with that topic, visit the webring and find others who are
on that list or who are also looking for a list!!  

membership with the olds list doesn't preclude other lists.  signal to noise
ratio for this list is terrible.  off-topic posts turn would be signal into
noise as well as it promotes the mentality "if people can talk about boats
and rv's on the list, I certainly can post telling everyone that I passed
an Oldsmobile on the eay to work today!"   turns into dreck.

if the off-topic posts are cleaned up,  this list will become more useful
and informative and it won't be any less fun....  I seen it with other lists.

the turn over on this list is getting higher and higher because of all
the dreck posts... I've been on the list maybe 4 years,,  other oldtimers
will remember the days of a higher info:dreck ratio and testify.

Doug Ahern

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 16:02:21 EDT
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: Another new Olds nut

OK  I voted


Wild hair!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 15:09:20 
From: "Matt Rogers" <roge0172@tc.umn.edu>
Subject: 1969 cutlass

I'm in need of a shift linkage cable for a 1969 olds cutalass with a TH350 
transmission and a console (floor) shifter.  I know it's a long shot, but 
if anyone's got one they're willing to part with. . . I'd love to get back 
on the road!

thanks.

   Matt Rogers
roge0172@tc.umn.edu

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 16:24:06 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: North East USA Car Shows?

Steve,

If you don't mind driving a little, there's a great car cruise every Monday
night near Bradley International Airport ( half-way between Hartford, CT and
Springfield, MA) at Mark's Auto Parts. Nice venue on several acres of grass.
This past Monday there were 371 cars that showed up.  If you want details, let
me know.

Dude

"Reed, Stephen" wrote:

> Hey List!,
>         I'm going to be heading back to my old stomping ground of upstate NY
> for the upcoming Woodstock fest this year, and was wondering if anyone has
> heard of any car shows, or swap meets for the last week of July?
>         I'm going to check Hemming's online, but does anyone have any other
> suggestions for finding car shows?
>
> Steve Reed
> Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 15:19:54 CDT
From: "Steve Traynor" <dartster@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 70 Cutlass dashboard removal

My '70 has a/c and it has a single speaker in the middle of the dash, as 
well as a single speaker in the middle of the package tray. I'm more 
inclined to believe it was some sort of option thing way back when.
- ---------------------------
I don't know if this is true for Olds's or not but some A-bodies have a 
single
speaker in the middle for non-A/C cars and a speaker on each side for A/C
cars.  Very useful if you want to have a 4 speaker system in a non-A/C car.
Just "rescue" a dashpad from a A/C car.

Just an observation,
- --

Cliff "Surround Sound" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html
- ------------------
Steve
1970 Cutlass S Hardtop
Garland, TX
ICQ# 108901, Use "Olds list" as Request for Authorization

Favorite motivational line, seen at a Renassaince Faire: "The beatings will 
continue until morale is up!"




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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 14:47:18 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Hooker versus Hedman headers, how much better? (fwd)

Rock Man wrote:
> 
> I'm hoping my first time experience with installing
> headers will be nice. Considering that the engine is
> out, the wheel wells are off, and the whole front
> radiator core support is off! :-) I'm glad I had to
> replace that since the accident. It's gonna make my
> suspension work easier also.

That's called "making the best of a bad situation" :)

Two other things that my favorite parts man mentioned,
	1) Oldsmobile header fit is affected a lot by worn motor mounts.  He 
claims
that the Olds mounts are closer to horizontal than some others (read Chebby)
and old ones can sag enough to affect header fit.  He also said that the tranny
mount height affects the angle of the headers.  He said that some people have
brought back headers that would not fit and they pull the car in and replace
the motor and tranny mounts and install the headers for them.

	2) Welding a chunk of pipe inside of the collectors that the exhaust 
goes over
can eliminate collector leak forever.

I'm not saying I agree with him, just chucking it out for comment.
- -- 

Cliff "No Collectors" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 17:00:52 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: 1950 Olds for sale

I know this guy who has two '50 olds. Because he knows I love Oldses, he is 
willing to sell one to me. From what I can tell, it's an 88 with an automatic 
trans. It says "furturamic" on the rear quarters. It has skirts and a visor 
over the front windshield. The grill is cracked but the speedo says 63,419 
miles. It's totally original. The engine looks a little rusty but turns over 
and runs well. The interior has that musty smell but is in remarkably good 
condition. It has a key ignition and a chrome starter button. I'd like to buy 
it and restore it. I have these questions:

How hard is it to get a grill and parts in general?
I want to pay a fair price, but not go for my shirt. What's fair?
Are skirts and visor rare or desirable?
Any help or advice would be really appreciated.
Tia
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course)

 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 14:13:44 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: OFF TOPIC POSTS (was Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR 
SUSPENSION....)

>If the off-topic posts are cleaned up,  this list will become
>more useful and informative and it won't be any less fun....
>I seen it with other lists.
>
>The turnover on this list is getting higher and higher because
>of all the dreck posts... I've been on the list maybe 4 years,
>other oldtimers will remember the days of a higher info:dreck
>ratio and testify.

I agree with Doug, but for different reasons, and in the interests of full 
disclosure, I was the one posting the "unrelated story" under the torsion 
bar thread. IMHO, I contribute enough genuine content on this list to be 
permitted an anecdote once in a while.

There _is_ a lot of noise on this list, but off-topic posts are probably No. 
5 or 6 in the list of Worst Offenders (and ironically, are usually labeled 
as Off-topic, either in the Subject line or within the post). I think a lot 
more space is wasted by

1) Numerous relatively content-free posts or comments
2) Numerous relatively content-free posts or comments that quote a 
multi-page posting in full in their reply
3) Pricing discussions that should go to email, but the default Reply-To is 
unfortunately set to the list instead of to the poster
4) Complaints by new posters about how we're ignoring their Unsubscribe 
attempts

Two changes might cut the noise level in half:

1) Set the Reply-To: address to the poster, not the list. That way anyone 
who wants to dash off a short reply to the author will get the author's 
address via their Reply button, and won't end up broadcasting their comment 
to all umpty-hundred people on the list. I suspect making this change alone 
will cause the noise level to plummet.

2) Drop new subscribers into the Olds Digest mailing list instead of the 
real-time distribution. That way they won't be inundated by all the 
individual postings until they get an idea of what they'll be in for.

- -- Andy


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------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1980
*********************************

