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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1975


oldsmobile-digest        Monday, May 24 1999        Volume 01 : Number 1975



1980 Nascar Olds purchase
Re: Fuel tank and tire questions - '68 442
RE: UNBOUNCE: Beautiful 1988 Olds For Sale
Re: Fuel tank and tire questions - '68 442
MY CARBURATOR IS LEAKING FUEL ONTO MY INTAKE MANIFOLD
Re: MY CARBURATOR IS LEAKING FUEL ONTO MY INTAKE MANIFOLD
Re: Power Tour
Re: 67 Cutlass vs. 97 Mustang
Re: 67 Cutlass vs. 97 Mustang
OCA Nats Meeting ?
Re: 67 Cutlass vs. 97 Mustang
conv. top conditioning?armorall?
trim f/s
UNBOUNCE: Street Rocket Gathering II
Re: conv. top conditioning?armorall?
RE: conv. top conditioning?armorall?
Re: Phenomenal Phind
Free Meguiar's Endurance Tire Protectant 
FOR SALE: 68 cutlass/442 convertible $15,000
Re: MY CARBURATOR IS LEAKING FUEL ONTO MY INTAKE MANIF
Re: FOR SALE: 68 cutlass/442 convertible $15,000
Re: Fuel tank and tire questions - '68 442
New Website, need all your help with this one!
Re: FOR SALE: 68 cutlass/442 convertible $15,000
Re: Rallye 350 Update
RE: gas sender wiring (was GTOMAN???)
Re: Going APESH*T over quadrajet carb
Re: Going APESH*T over quadrajet carb
Re: OCA Nats Meeting ?
Re: window cleaner
Re: Going APESH*T over quadrajet carb
Widest Tires?
Re: window cleaner
Emily Post please? 
was:~My~Carburetor~Is~Leaking~Fuel~Onto~My~Intake~Manifold~!!
Re: Going APESH*T over quadrajet carb
Re: New Website, need all your help with this one!
Intake Sealing Tricks?
Quad states Car Show
Re: 77 wont start
Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?
Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?
Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?
Re: 77 wont start
Re: More Decoding
Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?
Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?
Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?
Re: window cleaner
Re: 77 wont start
RE: gas sender wiring
Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?
Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?
Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?
Re: window cleaner
R12 A/C System thoughts...(ramblings)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 23:11:06 EDT
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: 1980 Nascar Olds purchase

I just paid 29.99 for Buddy Baker's 1980 winning Daytona 500 late 70's 
Oldsmobile. Its the # 28 in 1/24 scale NAPA. Good price? There was 1 Olds 
left. Just thought Id ask.

Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 23:29:28 EDT
From: QWKCUTLASS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fuel tank and tire questions - '68 442

The tank holds 22 gal., i believe and the tire size should be 205 70 14

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 23:35:58 -0400
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: UNBOUNCE: Beautiful 1988 Olds For Sale

Pete's not going to read any of these responses since Greg prefixed his
forward message by saying he's not on the list and you need to reply to him.
Notice the UNBOUNCE word.


Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 3.8 Calais
Bucks County, PA
mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 22:40:12 -0500
From: Dan Williams <442much@home.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel tank and tire questions - '68 442

20 gal fuel tank.


"C. Casteel" wrote:
> 
> What is the standard fuel capacity of the '68 442 conv.?
> 
> Also, in today's radial tire sizes, what would be the closest to the
> original size for my car?
> 
> TIA.

- -- 
Dan Williams                            442Much@home.com
Marion, IA                             68 442 Convertible

				   (+)------------------------------------(+)
        |  http://www.442.com/williams68.html  | 
       (+)------------------------------------(+)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 21:04:28 -0700 (PDT)
From: EDMUND WILLIAMS <efw67@yahoo.com>
Subject: MY CARBURATOR IS LEAKING FUEL ONTO MY INTAKE MANIFOLD

I have a 70 Delta88 with a 455 2bbl Rochester carb. The carb seems to
be leaking fuel onto my intake manifold. I can smell fuel. Sometimes It
will buck and on hot days in traffic, and it sometimes shuts off. Do I
need to have the carb rebuilt? Could it be bad gas? I use regular gas.
According to the owners manual, I can use regular gas. Someone please
help me remedy this problem. Ed from Queens, New York

_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 00:18:20 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: MY CARBURATOR IS LEAKING FUEL ONTO MY INTAKE MANIFOLD

EDMUND WILLIAMS wrote:

> I have a 70 Delta88 with a 455 2bbl Rochester carb. The carb seems to
> be leaking fuel onto my intake manifold. I can smell fuel. Sometimes It
> will buck and on hot days in traffic, and it sometimes shuts off. Do I
> need to have the carb rebuilt? Could it be bad gas? I use regular gas.
> According to the owners manual, I can use regular gas. Someone please
> help me remedy this problem. Ed from Queens, New York

I had a very similar problem with my Cutlass when I first got it (it was
originally a 2bbl, also).  My fix was a carb rebuild.  If you do rebuild
the carb, when you reinstall the carb it would be helpful to use some sort
of insulating carb to manifold gasket.   Unfortunately, finding such a
gasket for a 2 bbl may be difficult.  You may want to call Summit Racing
(1-800-230-3030).  They may be able to get one.  BTW, do you actually see
the carb leaking fuel, or are you assuming it is because you smell the gas?

- --
Thomas P. Smith
  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/dual exhaust/
        sometimes Q-Jet, sometimes Holley/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 21:28:20 PDT
From: "OldsMaster Erickson" <cutlassnep@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Power Tour

'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass(daily driver)SNIP
last time i checked there was no Cutlass S in 67....
>From: C K <bloom9@juno.com>
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Power Tour
>Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 13:26:43 -0500
>
>Hey all, this morning my wife and I parked on the side of Highway 169 and
>watched the Power Tour pass by on their way to St. Louis.
>
>It was really cool! We only saw three Olds, two '71 442's and one 72
>Cutlass, but they were very nice cars.
>
>This definitely wetted our appitite for Dallas next month.
>
>Fred Kemp
>bloom9@juno.com
>Tulsa, OK area
>'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass(daily driver)
>
>___________________________________________________________________
>You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
>Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
>or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 21:29:16 PDT
From: "OldsMaster Erickson" <cutlassnep@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass vs. 97 Mustang

Was this mustang you raced a 6cyl?

>From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass vs. 97  Mustang
>Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 17:38:59 -0700
>
>I know this isn't Olds related, however, has anyone seen one
>of those new Mustang Cobra's with 450+ HP?  I think this
>thing could blow the doors off of anything we have.
>
>Chris


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 21:36:59 PDT
From: "OldsMaster Erickson" <cutlassnep@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass vs. 97 Mustang

Don't always think that the 1/4 mile proves your car acclerates 
faster...that Mustang is 495hp...and it'll go (in a straight line) a hell of 
alot faster than your Oldsmobile. These Mustangs top out at around 
200mph...lets see any flying brick oldsmobile do that....?

>From: "Ken" <olds442@en.com>
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass vs. 97  Mustang
>Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 18:29:19 -0400
>
>
>
> >Ken wrote:
> >
> >> You mean the new Mustang Cobra can beat anything -YOU- have.  There are
>afew
> >> very fast Oldsmobiles on this list..
> >
> >Ok then what HP is your engine and what are the times from 0 to 60 and
> >1/4 mile?
> >
> >Chris
>
>
>Keep in mind my Olds is not even close to being the fastest car on the 
>list,
>but I would clean a Saleen's clock.  I had to break out my May 1999 Motor
>Trends issue to look up the 99 Saleen s351 (yep the 490 horse one).  MT
>magazine tested the Ford in question and came up with a 13.0 at 111 mph 1/4
>mile(price as tested $57,500).  My 78 Gutlass was running 12.20 at 110 in
>the 1/4 mile last year(price as tested $3500).   I was running a more or
>less stock motor with bone stock heads, a hotter cam, holley carb,
>aftermarket ignition, 3500 stall converter.  This year I have switched to
>aluminum heads, flat top pistons, much hotter cam. The car length I would
>have beat him by last year will be afew car lengths this year.  Afew of the
>list members are running mid 11 1/4 miles.  Those Oldsmobiles would leave a
>Saleen pilot scartching his head and wondering why he spent all that 
>money..
>Please dont play the handling card as we are talking raw acceleration 
>here..
>
>


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 00:47:23 EDT
From: Jetaway4sp@aol.com
Subject: OCA Nats Meeting ?

List,

Has anyone planned an informal meeting of list members at the national meet?

How about a system of identifying your car ? Maybe our own window sticker in 
the back?

Randy in Oklahoma
57 88 J2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 01:34:37 EDT
From: BIGJERMES@aol.com
Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass vs. 97 Mustang

In a message dated 5/24/99 12:38:02 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
cutlassnep@hotmail.com writes:

<< Don't always think that the 1/4 mile proves your car acclerates 
 faster...that Mustang is 495hp...and it'll go (in a straight line) a hell of 
 alot faster than your Oldsmobile. These Mustangs top out at around 
 200mph...lets see any flying brick oldsmobile do that....?
  >>
well, for a $50,000 car that mustang isnt all that fast.  put $49,000 into a 
$1,000 g-body cutlass and then recompare.  i dont think its fair to compare a 
$8-10,000 car to a $50,000 car.  
jeremy

------------------------------

Date: 23 May 99 22:58:48 PDT
From: Randy Hermsen <76cutlass@netscape.net>
Subject: conv. top conditioning?armorall?

Good evening list members
First gotta tells ya all how beautifull the 72 cutlass supreme conv. is
lookin.WOW!! dash is installed complete with clock kick panels air cond. and a
ton of armorall on the black inter. and boot.First time I got the top down
since I got her.The rear panel with glass in the top is needed to make new
top(cause mine is ripped to sh t)wanting to keep this piece in good shape
noticing it was screaming for moisture when I was doin rest of inter. Whats
the best stuff to keep top supple and conditioned??
         T.I.A.
                         will post pics of 72 conv. soon on site
                 http://mypage.goplay.com/Cutlass72-76/.

                             Randy
                               76 cutlass supreme
                                 72 cutlass supreme conv.(insured next week I
hope gotta pass aircare)





____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://webmail.netscape.com.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 22:09:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: jalkara <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: trim f/s

69 442 hard top interior roof trim for sale
black
headliner rods
black headliner edge trim
left side window channel rubber holder
shoulder belts
shoulder belt holding clips
exterior rear window stainless

reply privately as i only get digest and sometimes just delete them.

47rocket98

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 07:27:13 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Street Rocket Gathering II

Header was too long for majordomo to handle, forwarding.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Street Rocket Gathering II

I just wanted to get a confirmation of the people that are going to go to 
Milan on Saturday May 29th.  The gates open at 1:00pm and the cost is 35.00 
for racing and 20.00 for test and tuning.  They run side by side the hole 
day.  So far I know that I, and Aaron Lamb, Rob Thomas and Gary Rubrich and 
Dave Heilala are goes.  I would like to hear from everyone else.  Also I am 
extending the invite to the Olds list for people that may be from the 
surrounding areas to join us.  Hopefully Dr. Decal will have our new banner 
present to make us proud.  :)

regards W MACHINES.
EMAIL ME IF YOU NEED DIRECTIONS TO MILAN DRAGWAY.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 07:38:24 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Re: conv. top conditioning?armorall?

List,

        Per a list members advice, I have been using
baby oil on all of the vinyl on my cars with GREAT
results - it causing no cracking or other side effects,
is not toxic and smells kinda nice two ............

The General

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 07:05:58 -0500
From: "Johnson, Samuel" <SJohnso6@allstate.com>
Subject: RE: conv. top conditioning?armorall?

And it's much cheaper too!

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Patton [SMTP:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca]
> Sent:	Monday, May 24, 1999 6:38 AM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca; patton@ComCAT.COM
> Subject:	Re: conv. top conditioning?armorall?
> 
> 
> List,
> 
>         Per a list members advice, I have been using
> baby oil on all of the vinyl on my cars with GREAT
> results - it causing no cracking or other side effects,
> is not toxic and smells kinda nice two ............
> 
> The General
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 05:29:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Phenomenal Phind

  I have 20mb of web space, and I'm only using a small portion of it,
so, I can put the pictures there and people can link their pages to
them (My olds page isn't up yet). 

Stefan
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
70Cutlass@Beer.com

- --- Chris Brown Witt <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu> wrote:
> Saw an ad in the local small town paper today... yard sale,
> Oldsmobile p
> arts. Stopped by on the way home to investigate. What an
> understatement.
> 40x60 pole barn and a trailer  with all sorts of items. Guy used to
> work
> at Olds I guess, boxes full of NOS items in the package. NOS 1/4
> panels
> on the wall. Dealer displays. Aerotech and similar go-karts with gas
> motors. 59? 98 2-door with J-2 tri-carb setup. '68 Cutlass with
> FACTORY
> EXPERIMENTAL 455, Mondello modified K heads, 518 CID. On the stand, a
> 600hp 350 motor. Various & sundry blocks sitting here & there.
> Outside,
> a real '68 H/O, currently sporting incorrect motor. Z-Z paint code.
> This
> man even has rigged up an ELEVATOR out of a garage door opener
> mechanism
> to lift parts upstairs in the barn. Oh, and outside... is a mid
> 80Õs??
> Toronado, modified with ***2 rear axles*** and an ElCamino bed. [btw,
> recently saw a Hot Wheels similar car, with wrecker boom fitted to
> it.]
> In the barn, also, a Vista of '72 or so getting a 3" top chop.
> Outside,
> a VERY pretty rustless, needs paint, etc. 71-2 Cutlass 2-door project
> car, he said $1500 would take it. WELL worth that in rust repair
> savings
> alone. In the pole barn also, boxes and boxes of Ô91 and '96
> Literature,
> new. I was on the way home... could not even START to assess all that
> the man has there.
> 
> Turns out I knew the man, never got around to visiting him at this
> location. He used to live on the street where I grew up. That's
> where/
> when he made that ultra-shorty sparkly green & black doorless '57?
> that folks marveled at during the centennial meet.
> 
> I would like to get photos of the 3-axle Toronado-Camino, the
> experimental block, and the green chopped car, but technology is
> limited here. Would anyone care to post these on a web page?
> 
> If you check the date, youÕll see this is NOT 01 April.
> -RS-
> 
> 
> --
> Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
> Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
> --
> 517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
> Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.
> 

_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 06:03:05 -0700
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Free Meguiar's Endurance Tire Protectant 

Hey List!	
	I subscribe to a "Freebie mailing list" and on the e-mail that was
sent out this weekend was a free trial package of Meguiar's Endurance Tire
Protectant.  I've never tried it, but thought I'd give the freebie a shot
and share the offer with my fellow Olds owners.

If anyone wants the e-mail address of the Freebie newsletter e-mail me
privately.

The details for the offer are listed below:

FREE TRIAL SIZE SAMPLE

To receive your free sample of Endurance Tire Protectant Gel by mail, please
fill out the form below and click Submit. Allow 6 to 8 weeks for delivery. 

Free "Endurance Tire Protectant Gel"
http://www.meguiars.com/clinics/clinics_endurance1.cfm


Steve Reed
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 08:08:05 -0500
From: "Chuck, Stephen C." <scc@teamquest.com>
Subject: FOR SALE: 68 cutlass/442 convertible $15,000

The car has 85,??? original miles on it.  New white interior and a fresh
blue clearcoat exterior and show chrome bumpers. 350 rocket with 4 bbl, 3
speed automatic transmission, power top (works great), AM/FM original
radio(works kinda), tilt wheel and factory air conditioning (worked last
summer,.. haven't tried it this summer). It is a 442 clone with fender
stripes, trumpet exhaust and 442 rear bumper(super hard to find).  This car
looks and drives great!!   It comes with a floor shifter and console (I
never put them in because I couldn't find a blank shift collar for the tilt
steering column).  I can send JPGs if desired.

Stephen Chuck
Mason City, IA
(515)423-1542 (home)  
(515)357-2700 (work)
schuck@fiai.net (home)
scc@teamquest.com (work)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 09:13:38 -0400
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: MY CARBURATOR IS LEAKING FUEL ONTO MY INTAKE MANIF

It sounds like an accelerator pump is leaking (common problem). Replace the
pump diaphragm and it will most likely solve the problem.

Now, I'm assuming that you can actually see that fuel is leaking onto your
manifold. If you are going simply by smell, check the fuel pump with the
engine running to see if fuel is coming out of the weep hole, indicating a
bad fuel pump diaphragm. It may be hard to see as they usually just spit
when they are bad, so use a good flash light to look at the pump. Watch it
for a little while as the leak is not always apparent immediately.  If the
pump is in bad enough shape it could also cause the drivability problem.

- -----Original Message-----

>I have a 70 Delta88 with a 455 2bbl Rochester carb. The carb seems to
>be leaking fuel onto my intake manifold. I can smell fuel. Sometimes It
>will buck and on hot days in traffic, and it sometimes shuts off. Do I
>need to have the carb rebuilt? Could it be bad gas? I use regular gas.
>According to the owners manual, I can use regular gas. Someone please
>help me remedy this problem. Ed from Queens, New York
>
>_____________________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 09:13:04 EDT
From: Bbymks4@aol.com
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: 68 cutlass/442 convertible $15,000

           I don't know, 15 large for a clone, seems a bit high....

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 08:19:08 -0500 (CDT)
From: blue442@webtv.net (Jeff Carter)
Subject: Re: Fuel tank and tire questions - '68 442

My 68 (hardtop) holds 20 US gallons.

205 70 14's are also stock on my girlfriend's Escort.  ewww, not cool!

Jeff Carter
68 Olds 442
82 Gran Gury cop car

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 09:25:37 EDT
From: Dshack4@aol.com
Subject: New Website, need all your help with this one!

List:

I've been a member of your list for about six months now and love it to 
death!  I have put a new website together, www.classiccutlass.com    It will 
take some time to update and improve this site.  My goal is to have a 
COMPLETE Technical site for the big block cutlass family.  I NEED ALL YOUR 
HELP on this one!  Please visit the site and look at the way it is set up.  
If you have comments, pictures, notes, ANYTHING, please send it to me so I 
can get this thing up and running and useful to the List.  I currently have 
tons of Olds manuals and tech reference books, but it will take some time to 
get in all on site.  Please be patient!  Don't give up on me just yet!

P.S.  The drawing on the top of the main page was an attempt to draw my car.

Thanks list!

Shack

71 442 W-30

www.classiccutlass.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 09:55:18 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: FOR SALE: 68 cutlass/442 convertible $15,000

In a message dated 05/24/1999 9:15:48 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Bbymks4@aol.com writes:

<<  I don't know, 15 large for a clone, seems a bit high.... >>
I agree, seems way high.  But you can always ask for the moon and settle for 
less.

Often you will see the same car in Hemmings and other auto for sale magazines 
appear for the first time with one price then several months later with a 
lower price. I still think there are plenty of cars out there for sale.

Once I looked at a 65 Must*ng GT for 14,900.  After about 20 minutes the guy 
was down to 13,900 and before I left it was 13,200.  The car was worth maybe 
about 12,500 to 13,000.

I say always bargain.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 09:58:11 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Rallye 350 Update

"I am 99.9% done...."

Oh, what a dreamer!   ;-)

Seriously, Jim, congrats.  Feels good, doesn't it.  Just be advised that a car
project like this is never done - and that's the fun of it.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 8:36 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: RE: gas sender wiring (was GTOMAN???)

Ioannis Kouramanis wrote:
<snipped>
>.....The gas tank sensor wire runs from somewhere on the top of the 
>tank back behind the bumper, then up through one of the holes. Is 
>this the correct position? It seems odd to me that so much wire is 
>exposed. 
____________________________________________

I was under my '72 Supreme yesterday and I noticed the same thing - 
the routing of the gas tank sender sure looks odd, but it's exactly 
the same on my car as you described on yours, and my car was almost 
totally unmodified when I bought it, so I'm guessing that was the 
stock routing.

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 11:50:54 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Going APESH*T over quadrajet carb

In a message dated 99-05-23 14:37:09 EDT, you write:

<< Possible causes are a vacuum leak or the float set too low. Especially if
 the float was readjusted after the needle / seat repair. There are different
 floats too - maybe the setting you're using is wrong for the particular
 float you have. Might experiment with a slightly higher setting just for
 ha-ha's.
 
 Check the fuel pump output pressure too. Could be coincident with the needle
 / seat failure. >>

<train of thought>

Would also suggest checking for cracked/worn vacc hoses.
A lean condition will occur from disconnecting EGR, or, failing that, a 
cracked hose supplying atmispheric pressure to the venturii and preventing 
manifold vacc from reaching EGR pump.

This does not, of course address why runs better after awhile.

Athough, stumble at idle is also a lean condition, such as properly tuned 
carbs might experience in cold weather with denser air entering the carb, and 
especially before operating temps are reached.

So, severe lean after choke opens, less lean when warmer.
Here's the tell: Is your car giving high heat readings after prolonged 
driving in this warmer weather?

Even with a properly functioning radiator/water pump.
Lean condition makes engine run hotter.

Cannot now guess at true fix, just not up on the E-Quads.

</train of thought>

Good Luck!

SOM

&KA  <---- definitely in a mist, just no gorillas here

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 10:01:41 -0600
From: "Jeff Newman" <newsance@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Going APESH*T over quadrajet carb

- -----Original Message-----
From: Dave Cullen <david.cullen@snet.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, May 23, 1999 12:37 PM
Subject: Re: Going APESH*T over quadrajet carb


>

>Lesse what we can offer here...
>
>
>"Backfiring is usually timing or sticking valves. Although a lean condition
>will do it too. That would be consistent with running better with choke
on."

I personally have not touched the timing, and the engine was absolutely tip
top before the carb incident. However, The Rhodes scholars at firestone
could have messed with the timing, and very possibly screwed it up, as the
timing indicator tab has been missing since I bought the car. I figure if I
ever do a camshaft job on this car, I'll go ahead and put one on, but for
now, I just don't touch the timing.

>Definitely start with the ECM - check the trouble codes. If there's a code
>"44", you have a lean condition. You can verify that by trying to set the
>idle mixture (see Tom Lentz' web page at
>http://members.home.com/tlentz/more_power.html for info on checking engine
>codes and setting carb). If the idle screws have to come way out, that's
>further evidence of a lean condition.


No trouble codes since I last took it in 5 days ago. Was getting 21 and 22
(throttle position sensor) previously.

>
>Possible causes are a vacuum leak or the float set too low. Especially if
>the float was readjusted after the needle / seat repair. There are
different
>floats too - maybe the setting you're using is wrong for the particular
>float you have. Might experiment with a slightly higher setting just for
>ha-ha's.
>
Rechecked vacuum hoses time and time  again. They all appear to be hooked up
right... The carburetor gaskets should be good, they have used new one
everytime it has been apart, as have I. I can't believe that in the 10 times
this carb has been apart that not one time has it sealed right.

>Check the fuel pump output pressure too. Could be coincident with the
needle
>/ seat failure.
>
Fuel pump output has been checked, tip top. Engine compression test, ditto.
>drc
>
>
>

________________________________________________________
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http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 11:57:09 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: OCA Nats Meeting ?

In a message dated 99-05-24 00:49:02 EDT, you write:

<< Has anyone planned an informal meeting of list members at the national 
meet?
How about a system of identifying your car ?  >>

Sorry, just thought this funny.

Anyone who does not identify Soylent Ocean Mist from quite a long way away 
may be subject to a two shot penalty.

Karl will probably volunteer to substitute for the penalty.

((Um... can Karl show SOM "unrestored" as is?))

Accept no substitutes.

http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/soylent.html

SOM  <----- perhaps a bath is in order?

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 08:58:30 -0700
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re: window cleaner

>Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 09:11:03 -0400
>From: Mike Rothe <hurstolds@duesouth.net>
>Subject: Re: window cleaner

[SNIP]

>One of the things you can also do is use 000 grade steel wool (or extremely
>fine).  BE VERY CAREFUL not to get this next to paint however.  First clean
>the window normally, then use the wool.  It removes water stains and
mineral
>deposits fairly easily and doesn't ruin the glass.  This stuff also works
on
>stainless and chrome too.  As with most things, moderation is key.  Don't
go
>spastic.

>I prefer, although a lot more expensive, is the professional window
cleaning
>foam.  Any glass shop sells it, and it's VERY VERY good for cleaning just
>about any glass surface.

>Mike Rothe

Mike,
	Thanks for the tips on window cleaning.  I have a question regarding
the use of the 000 grade steel wool.  Do you use this in combination with a
cleaner or water, or do you do this procedure dry?  I've never done it and
would like to get the 411 on it.

Thanx!

Steve Reed
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 10:12:39 -0600
From: "Jeff Newman" <newsance@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Going APESH*T over quadrajet carb

"So, severe lean after choke opens, less lean when warmer.
Here's the tell: Is your car giving high heat readings after prolonged
driving in this warmer weather?

Even with a properly functioning radiator/water pump.
Lean condition makes engine run hotter"

I have no way of telling, (no temp gauge) but it does SEEM to run
hotter(more ticking after the car is turned off). Water pump is a high flow
model (new last year) and radiator passages are clean. Add a  160 degree
thermostat to that and this car does a good job of keeping cool.

yes the thermostat is colder than stock for this car, but I had it on for a
month (as soon as the weather got warm) before this happened and it ran just
great.


________________________________________________________
NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet.  Shouldn't you?
Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 09:05:12 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: Widest Tires?

Some wheel/tire questions: 

What are the centimeter sizes of the widest tires that will fit on 6", 7"
and 8" wheels?

I'm heading for 15" wheels for my 66 Starfire because they'll fit over the
very large drums currently on there and will also fit over disks too.
Strongest contender so far is to simulate the SSI in a 15", which Olds
didn't make. My hunch is I can use wheels from another GM line and Olds
centers to get there. Comments or experiences? 

If I have to go custom, I believe I'll need technical specifications like
backspacing and offset fro the builder. True? Any suggestions here?

Finally does anyone have conclusive evidence that I can run 8" wheels under
my 66 Starfire (or any non-Toro 65-70 Big Olds) without rubbing the innder
fender? My guess is there's some backspacing/offset combo that will work, I
just don't know what it is, but I'm following the bigger=better for contact
patch logic.

Hope you all can help. 

thanks
cf

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 12:19:29 EDT
From: Mrmagic442@aol.com
Subject: Re: window cleaner

In a message dated 5/24/99 8:59:28 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
sreed@chatsworth.com writes:

<< 
 Mike,
 	Thanks for the tips on window cleaning.  I have a question regarding
 the use of the 000 grade steel wool.  Do you use this in combination with a
 cleaner or water, or do you do this procedure dry?  I've never done it and
 would like to get the 411 on it.
  >>
 
       NEVER use 00 Steel wool dry. always use some form of liquid such as 
glass cleaner or window acid. I keep a 100 foot roll here for my detail shop 
and we use it along with window acid to get the hard water spots off of 
windows on cars and motorhomes we are detailing. If enough people were to 
request I could put together a window cleaning kit with all the stuff needed 
to do this. It's more time consuming than anything but well worth the effort 
when done. It can make old glass look brand new again.

      Jeff,
        Windshield Magic Auto Glass
         Magic Auto Detail

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 12:40:30 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Emily Post please? 
was:~My~Carburetor~Is~Leaking~Fuel~Onto~My~Intake~Manifold~!!

What a great bloody din that was!

That's better.

Now, on the one hand, your intake will never be cleaner.
But onto the source of the problem.

In a message dated 99-05-24 00:02:08 EDT, you write:

<< The carb seems to be leaking fuel onto my intake manifold. I can smell 
fuel. Sometimes It will buck and on hot days in traffic, and it sometimes 
shuts off. Do I
 need to have the carb rebuilt? Could it be bad gas? I use regular gas. 
According to the owners manual, I can use regular gas. >>

Has ~anything~ at all been done to the carburetor lately?

The "buck" could possibly be described as "surging", a severly lean condition 
(not enough fuel supplied.

Bad gas has caused SOM's 1965 2GC carb to die at idle due to poor combustion 
properties in a high compression engine. Also bad gas may cause abnormally 
foul-smelling exhaust.
It will ~not~ cause spontaneous carburetor leaks.

What is needed, is to identify the leak source.

For this, run car hot, park it, leave running (idle?), pop hood, pull off air 
cleaner shroud.

The throttle linkage is the large rod on the driver's side of the carb that 
heads straight for the back of the engine and links to another rod that heads 
down along firewall to wherever it connects to throttle pedal linkage.

At idle (in Park!!!!) tug this rod towards the rear of the car to open up the 
throttle plates. This should increase air and fuel flow. Increased air/fuel 
flow should definitely indicate where the fuel is leaking.

That is how to see where it is leaking.

Now, for some guesswork (an hallucination, if you will)

Karl will guess that you have a partially disconnected inlet fitting, or a 
stripped inlet fitting. There ~is~ a remedy for this.

(again, visit http://members.aol.com/KarlAune/soylent.html)
((also featured on http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html))

That pic of SOM's 2GC carb?
Yours should look similar.

That brass colored thingie?

That is the fix for stripped inlet threads on the carburetor.
The carbs themselves are zinc castings and not nearly so strong as steel.
This necessitates some babying of the threads.

However, once stripped, the fix is to use a self-tapping, oversized, inlet 
fitting such as what Karl has pictured there.
Good auto parts places will have these.
Karl has seen "HELP!" ((a quote!)) and another brand carry these.

Start the threads, turn it in tight, and leave it there permanently.
Removal could release metal shavings (from the self-tapping part) that can 
catch in the main well tubes and get caught there permanently.

The fitting Karl used had a fitting on the opposite side that was appropriate 
for a different fitting that made use of a 3/8" braided hose type fuel line 
(to which an inline filter was added).

Now, no problems. To pull carb, loose hose from fittings. Change fuel filter 
without going near carb. Some seem to doubt quality of aftermarket inline 
filters though...

Again, just an opinion.
(end halucination)

Good Luck!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 12:46:39 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: Going APESH*T over quadrajet carb

On Mon, 24 May 1999, Jeff Newman wrote:

> I personally have not touched the timing, and the engine was absolutely tip
> top before the carb incident. However, The Rhodes scholars at firestone
> could have messed with the timing, and very possibly screwed it up, as the
> timing indicator tab has been missing since I bought the car. I figure if I
> ever do a camshaft job on this car, I'll go ahead and put one on, but for
> now, I just don't touch the timing.

Yikes, no timing tab.... then you really can't rule out timing as a
problem.  You could at least make some kind of mark to establish your
current timing as a baseline and experiment from there.  Keep in mind
that a set of bad plug wires (I've had bad out of box) can imitate the
problems you're having.   

Does running with the EST disconnected make the problem go away?  IF
that's the case, then timing might be the issue.   A clogged cat can also
cause the popping thru the carb, but you would also notice a severe
degradation in performance anyway - how's your manifold vacuum?  

Check for a stuck open EGR valve too....

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    -->   bob@tecmark.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 12:50:10 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: New Website, need all your help with this one!

Dshack4@aol.com wrote:
> 
> List:
> 
> I've been a member of your list for about six months now and love it to
> death!  I have put a new website together, www.classiccutlass.com    It will
> take some time to update and improve this site.  My goal is to have a
> COMPLETE Technical site for the big block cutlass family.  

New list member (relatively speaking) shamelessly sucking up to Joe
"anything less than 400 cubes is a lawnmower engine" P.   :)
Good luck on your site.  And sorry Joe, but I couldn't resist it.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 09:50:02 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: Intake Sealing Tricks?

I put about 6 hours into resealing my intake manifold to the block & head
this weekend, unsuccessfully. Along the way I did the valve covers too which
worked out fine. 

But the d*mn intake still seeps oil which leaks down on to the exhaust
manifolds and burns off with that smell or leaks on the old garage floor
making a mess. 

How do you properly seal the intake to block opening. I have tried rubber
gaskets --  bad fit from Victor brand. I replaced that with cork ones I
bought from Mondello. These fit the front & rear block curves better, but
didn't totally seal either. 

In both cases, I installed the gaskets dry. That is, no silicone. Was this a
mistake? 

When I redo this can I reuse the cork gaskets with silicone since they were
installed dry? My instinct is never reuse a gasket, but I thought silicone
goop might work in this case. Or maybe I'm just being optimistic. 

Does anyone out there use _only_ a bead of silicone? The intake to block gap
is maybe 3/16"'s, that's a lot of silicone to maybe go into the intake
valley if it goops over the inside. 

What's the best brand of gasket for this purpose? 

Look forward to your thoughts.

cf

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 09:57:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Doug Beavers <dbtech@yahoo.com>
Subject: Quad states Car Show

I know its early, but anyone around IL planning on going to Quad states
Meet in September? It is being run by the IVOC (Illinois Valley Olds
Chapter). Anyone from Southwest Chicago area, Tinley Park, Orland Park,
Mokena, etc, let's get a caravan together and have a graet time!!
Please email me directly for more details at:

dbtech@yahoo.com





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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 12:59:49 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: 77 wont start

In a message dated 99-05-23 00:38:13 EDT, you write:

<< me and my cousin pulled out our 1977 cutlass salon to clean up 
 and the dang thing won't start. 
 starters ok 
 traced the wires up and used an wiring diagram  but still no go. 
 the starter does even spin, except for crossing the starter poles ouch 
 this is what a couple of my friends said  do you agree  >>

OK
Now, understand that Karl is not making fun of you.
Karl just does not quite understand what you are saying here.

Your 1977 Cutlass Salon will not start.
Since you traced the starter wiring, you are sure that it is hooked up right.
The starter will not spin except when you short between the starting motor 
terminals?

I take that to mean that the battery power to the starter is good.

Here are three things to look for.

1) weak battery

2) bad engine ground strap

3) starter pinion stuck on flexplate

The battery must put out 12v.
Engine must be at ground with battery and frame.

A stuck pinion will cause similar problems. The only solution for that is to 
add shims to the starter where it attaches to the engine.

Let us know If Karl misinterpreted you.

Good Luck!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 12:59:58 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?

List,

        The last intakes I resealed were leak-free
using silicone only (no gasket) at the front and rear
mating areas.........

Just my thoughts...........
The General

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 13:10:19 EDT
From: RPTW32@aol.com
Subject: Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?

In a message dated 5/24/99 12:51:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
cfair@FairIsaac.com writes:

<< Does anyone out there use _only_ a bead of silicone? The intake to block 
gap
 is maybe 3/16"'s, that's a lot of silicone to maybe go into the intake
 valley if it goops over the inside. 
 >>

This is the only way to seal properly. Put the silicone bead down and let 
stand for about 5 min's . Then set intake down and put four corner bolts in 
to make sure lined up correctly.  Walk away for couple hours. Put in rest of 
bolts and torque to spec.  You'll never have leak again from front or rear of 
intake.

Rgds,
R.Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 13:10:13 EDT
From: Knightvd@aol.com
Subject: Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?

In a message dated 5/24/99 11:51:29 AM Central Daylight Time, 
cfair@FairIsaac.com writes:

<< Does anyone out there use _only_ a bead of silicone? The intake to block 
gap
 is maybe 3/16"'s, that's a lot of silicone to maybe go into the intake
 valley if it goops over the inside. 
 
 What's the best brand of gasket for this purpose?  >>

I think many people will tell you that using just a neat bead of silicone is 
the best way to seal those ends.  I have used this method personally about 
six times and have never had a leakage problem.  The trick is to be neat with 
the bead and place the manifold down carefully when installing.

Good Luck.

Vince Knight 
71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 10:12:24 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 77 wont start

>the starter does even spin, except for crossing the starter poles
>ouch this is what a couple of my friends said  do you agree

Not sure if I found all the postings on this subject, but it sounds like 
maybe the Bendix drive isn't advancing the starter pinion to engage the 
flywheel. If they're hearing the starter spinning freely, either that is 
happening, or it's trying to mesh the pinion with a major gap in the 
flywheel teeth. Since the car's been sitting for a while, I'd say maybe the 
first possibility is more likely, but the gap-in-the-flywheel theory could 
be tested real quick by just turning the engine a little bit via a large 
socket on the crankshaft damper bolt, then trying the starter one more time. 
If it still spins freely, change the starter (or hit it with a big lug 
wrench :-).

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 13:15:51 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: More Decoding

In a message dated 99-05-23 21:44:55 EDT, you write:

<< 395558 2 >>

We read this as a 1966-1977 350cid.

Your carb number is ~not~ on the back of the carb.

If a Quadrajet, visit http://meltingpot.fortunecity.com/thurlow/858/index.html
to see a pic with modifications to indicate Q-jet application code location.

If a 2GC, your application code should have been on a triangular tin tag, or 
possibly on a similarly circular code on the driver's side of the float bowl, 
partially obscured by linkage rods.

However...

Whups.
Karl gots a 2GC lying about that has a massive "7044xxx" stamping on the 
passenger's side of the float bowl.
But that is not common to 2G carbs.

More to the point would be your cowl tag code (on engine firewall) and the 
stamping on the front of whatever cyl head is correct for 1970.
(Check both to be sure.)

Good Luck!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 10:22:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?

  Whenever I replace gaskets, I always put a layer of Permatex on both
surfaces of the gasket, as well as the surfaces of whatever I happen to
be sealing.  This generally guarantees a good seal, as the Permatex
squeezes into the small openings where the leak would be coming from. 
This method has not failed me yet.  You might also want to make sure
that the manifold is seated properly(straight) as if it's off slightly
to one side or the other(it doesn't take much) it might not mate
properly with the head/block surfaces.  

Good Luck!

 - Stefan
   1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
   70Cutlass@Beer.com

- --- Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com> wrote:
> I put about 6 hours into resealing my intake manifold to the block &
> head
> this weekend, unsuccessfully. Along the way I did the valve covers
> too which
> worked out fine. 
> 
> But the d*mn intake still seeps oil which leaks down on to the
> exhaust
> manifolds and burns off with that smell or leaks on the old garage
> floor
> making a mess. 
> 
> How do you properly seal the intake to block opening. I have tried
> rubber
> gaskets --  bad fit from Victor brand. I replaced that with cork ones
> I
> bought from Mondello. These fit the front & rear block curves better,
> but
> didn't totally seal either. 
> 
> In both cases, I installed the gaskets dry. That is, no silicone. Was
> this a
> mistake? 
> 
> When I redo this can I reuse the cork gaskets with silicone since
> they were
> installed dry? My instinct is never reuse a gasket, but I thought
> silicone
> goop might work in this case. Or maybe I'm just being optimistic. 
> 
> Does anyone out there use _only_ a bead of silicone? The intake to
> block gap
> is maybe 3/16"'s, that's a lot of silicone to maybe go into the
> intake
> valley if it goops over the inside. 
> 
> What's the best brand of gasket for this purpose? 
> 
> Look forward to your thoughts.
> 
> cf
> 

_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 13:29:35 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?

In a message dated 5/24/99 10:14:21 AM Pacific Daylight Time, RPTW32@aol.com 
writes:

<< << Does anyone out there use _only_ a bead of silicone? The intake to 
block 
 gap
  is maybe 3/16"'s, that's a lot of silicone to maybe go into the intake
  valley if it goops over the inside. 
  >>
 
 This is the only way to seal properly. Put the silicone bead down and let 
 stand for about 5 min's . Then set intake down and put four corner bolts in 
 to make sure lined up correctly.  Walk away for couple hours. Put in rest of 
 bolts and torque to spec.  You'll never have leak again from front or rear 
of 
 intake.
 
 Rgds,
 R.Thomas
 69 442 >>

	As suggested by Joe Elias, I did the same thing, except used the gray 
stuff, whatever it is..it desn't really harden..still kind of soft (not tacky 
though) and haven't had a leak yet. Granted not many miles, but I'm 
confident. Just throw away the seals that come in the kit.  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 12:22:22 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?

> 	As suggested by Joe Elias, I did the same thing, except used the 
gray 
> stuff, whatever it is..it desn't really harden..still kind of soft (not 
tacky 
> though) and haven't had a leak yet. Granted not many miles, but I'm 
> confident. Just throw away the seals that come in the kit.  Dorian

Just wanted to add: Olds and Chebby will work good with the silicone 
while my bud the f@rd mechanic tells me that the older fords are fine 
with the rubber gaskets from the kit. The reason is that those have 3 
or 4 little nipples that go in the block and that does the difference, 
obviously. Worked on my 460 f@rd. 

Ah, and don't forget to put enough silicone in the corners and also some 
around the water jackets. Most people do that and it will avoid water 
leaks like I had it on my first intake job before I heard of the water 
jaket silicone....

Regards, George

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 13:52:36 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: window cleaner

In a message dated 5/24/99 10:59:24 AM EST, sreed@chatsworth.com writes:

<< 	Thanks for the tips on window cleaning.  I have a question regarding
 the use of the 000 grade steel wool.  Do you use this in combination with a
 cleaner or water, or do you do this procedure dry?  I've never done it and
 would like to get the 411 on it.
  >>
Steve,


I recently had my car painted and had this navy blue mist on my windshield. I 
used 000 steel wool DRY. It worked perfectly. Another tip. When cleaning 
chrome, stay away from chrome polishes. They contain grit and over time will 
damage your chrome. Best chrome cleaner? Windex!
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 12:58:21 -0700
From: T Dzieciatkowski <Dziec@megsinet.net>
Subject: Re: 77 wont start

well I think posted wrong. The car starters works it fine, the starter IS
GOOD!!
The battery is good. Mr6bbl believes it's the fusible link, how would you
check this?
could it be the ignition or possibly a fuse? how do I check ??

btw I found 2  84 hursts in great condition in the Chicago area don't have
full
details yet any interests ?

btw what does unbounce mean 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 15:14:24 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: RE: gas sender wiring

I just spent a few hours under the rear end of my '68 swapping bumpers and
can confirm that the tank sender wire does indeed run from the tank, up
under the bumper and thru a hole at the rear center edge of the trunk
floor that is sealed by a grommet. License plate light wires use the same
hole. The sender unit wiring must be undisturbed from original because it
is still looped thru one of those black plastic loops that Olds used on
the temp sending unit sensor wire on the engine and elsewhere, that
probably cost about 1 cent each when bought in bulk but run 75 cents when
you buy them now... :)

The Cutlass now has one of those super hard-to-find cutout rear bumpers...
;-) New tailpipes next, so I can get those trumpets on! Looks kinda odd
right now.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 15:01:07 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?

Yea, Chris what they said!  I have had to do the same thing.  I tried to use
the rubber gaskets,  and had the same results you did.  I just put down a
good-ol bead of RTV,  and let it set a few min before placing the intake.
In my opinion  Fel-Pro makes the best gaskets.  If you place RTV on the
water jacket openings be sure to place a small amount on both sides of the
gasket.  TIP-use two people to place the manifold.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 12:50 PM
Subject: Intake Sealing Tricks?


> I put about 6 hours into resealing my intake manifold to the block & head
> this weekend, unsuccessfully. Along the way I did the valve covers too
which
> worked out fine.
>
> But the d*mn intake still seeps oil which leaks down on to the exhaust
> manifolds and burns off with that smell or leaks on the old garage floor
> making a mess.
>
> How do you properly seal the intake to block opening. I have tried rubber
> gaskets --  bad fit from Victor brand. I replaced that with cork ones I
> bought from Mondello. These fit the front & rear block curves better, but
> didn't totally seal either.
>
> In both cases, I installed the gaskets dry. That is, no silicone. Was this
a
> mistake?
>
> When I redo this can I reuse the cork gaskets with silicone since they
were
> installed dry? My instinct is never reuse a gasket, but I thought silicone
> goop might work in this case. Or maybe I'm just being optimistic.
>
> Does anyone out there use _only_ a bead of silicone? The intake to block
gap
> is maybe 3/16"'s, that's a lot of silicone to maybe go into the intake
> valley if it goops over the inside.
>
> What's the best brand of gasket for this purpose?
>
> Look forward to your thoughts.
>
> cf
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 14:22:47 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?

OK I hear more gripes about intake end seals than any other with the
exception of rope rear mains

the best way and IT WILL NOT LEAK is to use brake clean to remove all oil
this is the main problem then you could use a bead of silicone OR you could
use the neoprene end seals and install them correctly and they WILL NOT LEAK
the method for this is to apply a small ( choclate chip sized ) spot of
silicone in the corners then set the end seal apply the silicone to the
water passages install the steel shim valley pan apply another dot to all
four corners and a small bead to the water passages then install the intake
straight down and torque to spec. and IT WILL NOT LEAK I have used this
method on just about every make and it hasnt failed yet if you go with the
silicone bead method just remember to take care applying the bead and make
it a uniform 5/16" bead install the intake right away straight down dont
slide it around and torque it into place then allow the silicone to cure
BEFORE starting the engine or remove and plug the PCV to avoid having the
vacuum suck the silicone into the engine...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 24, 1999 11:50 AM
Subject: Intake Sealing Tricks?


> I put about 6 hours into resealing my intake manifold to the block & head
> this weekend, unsuccessfully. Along the way I did the valve covers too
which
> worked out fine.
>
> But the d*mn intake still seeps oil which leaks down on to the exhaust
> manifolds and burns off with that smell or leaks on the old garage floor
> making a mess.
>
> How do you properly seal the intake to block opening. I have tried rubber
> gaskets --  bad fit from Victor brand. I replaced that with cork ones I
> bought from Mondello. These fit the front & rear block curves better, but
> didn't totally seal either.
>
> In both cases, I installed the gaskets dry. That is, no silicone. Was this
a
> mistake?
>
> When I redo this can I reuse the cork gaskets with silicone since they
were
> installed dry? My instinct is never reuse a gasket, but I thought silicone
> goop might work in this case. Or maybe I'm just being optimistic.
>
> Does anyone out there use _only_ a bead of silicone? The intake to block
gap
> is maybe 3/16"'s, that's a lot of silicone to maybe go into the intake
> valley if it goops over the inside.
>
> What's the best brand of gasket for this purpose?
>
> Look forward to your thoughts.
>
> cf
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 12:28:53 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?

- --- steve harris writes:
<snip>  TIP-use two people to place the
manifold.<snip>

Another good tip is to remove the distributer. I
thought that I could sneak my intake in there without
removing the dist. While I did get it in there, I did
manage to screw up the rear bead of RTV I had laid
down and I still had an oil leak back there.

Del

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 14:41:52 -0500 (CDT)
From: blue442@webtv.net (Jeff Carter)
Subject: Re: window cleaner

Wal Mart sells 0000 steel wool in te paint section.  It feels much finer
than the 000.  The 0000 works well ridding glass of bugs and water
spots, wet or dry.

Jeff Carter
68 Olds 442
82 Gran Gury cop car

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 13:25:35 -0700
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: R12 A/C System thoughts...(ramblings)

List,
	Since I have a new car that has the "Ozone friendly" R-134a I have
been less than thrilled with the temperature of the air coming out of the
vents.  When I had my '85 Accord I serviced the A/C system with a new
expansion valve, receiver/dryer, o-rings, and a refurbished condenser.
There would be 35' Fahrenheit air coming out of the vents on a 100' Texas
day.  Driving around in standard Texas summer heat I would keep the blower
on the 2/4 position, sometimes dropping it to the first position.
	With my new car I am lucky if it blows air close to 50-55'
Fahrenheit.  It's only (Yeah right, only...) gotten to 90' so far and I have
to keep the blower on 3/4 position to maintain a comfortable/acceptable
temperature.  
	This leads me to thinking that I would rather pay the $45.00/LB for
R-12 and have ~great~ air conditioning, than convert an older system to the
R-134a and have a poor quality cooling system.  I think as long as you have
the o-rings replaced and the system holds a vacuum for a half an hour you'll
be safe in putting in R-12.  Granted it will cost more $$ but I think you
would be a lot happier with R-12!!

What are your thoughts?

Steve Reed
Austin, TX

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1975
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