Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1985


oldsmobile-digest        Sunday, May 30 1999        Volume 01 : Number 1985



Re: Technical Electrical...!!
Re: WHEELS FALLING OFF (WAS Re: Hammering on spindles)
pageing lawrence dagate/oca nationals
Re: Round 19, carb problems
Re: EXHAUST MANIFOLDS
Dual Exhaust
Re: Hammering on spindles (was: pickle forx)
RE: Hammering on spindles. Try this.
Wanted: '76-77 Cutlass Supreme rear window trim.
Re: 71 D-88 Parting Out
Re: pageing lawrence dagate/oca nationals
Fw: Quarter panel replace
gasket for firewall(and happy memorial day)
Re: Hammering on spindles. Try this. Ummmm
Re: Quarter panel replace
Re: Hammering on spindles. Try this. Ummmm
Re: Round 19, carb problems
Re: Round 19, carb problems
sway bar swap
Re: WHEELS FALLING OFF (WAS Re: Hammering on spindles)
Re: sway bar swap
Not to turn my back on GM...
Re: turn signal falling off 68 442
where to put speakers 68 442 Rag
cam walk?
Header Question
Re: Header Question
Swap Meet Today
Available: 68 FBM, 71-2 LHMirror
External VOltage Regulator 4sale
"Born Again" Olds listmember! (plus I want to buy a hubcap)
Re: Windshields
Re: Windshields
Re: Not to turn my back on GM...
Someone Help I Need 70 88/98 front fenders badly
My 85 Cutlass burns oil and blue smoke comes out of tailpipe
Re: My 85 Cutlass burns oil and blue smoke comes out of tailpipe
Re: 71 D-88 Parting Out
76rear sway swap to 72 cutlass??
Re: My 85 Cutlass burns oil and blue smoke comes out of tailpipe
WENT Drag Racing Again
Warm Running conditions
Re: Round 19, carb problems
Re: "Born Again" Olds listmember! (plus I want to buy a hubcap)
Re: Wanted: '76-77 Cutlass Supreme rear window trim.
Oldsmogrumbling
Re: Warm Running conditions
Re: WENT Drag Racing Again
Re: WENT Drag Racing Again
Re: Warm Running conditions
Vista Cruiser pictures
Re: WENT Drag Racing Again

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 09:27:30 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Technical Electrical...!!

>
>With the car off, but the ignition key on, the voltage reading at the "BAT"
>(+) side of the alternator reads 12.16 volts. The battery itself reads
>12.32 volts. There is a .16 difference.


Relative to where? Was your ground reference the same point in each case?
Measure from the alt to battery and see if those numbers are real. It's more
meaningful when the engine is running. Alternator needs to be more positive
than the battery.

>At the #1 terminal of the of the wire connector that plugs into the
>alternator there is a reading of 11.97 volts. Car is off ignition is turned
>forward.
>At the #2 terminal there is a reading of 12.17 volts. Car is off and
>ignition is turned forward.
>
>2>> Are these readings OK?


I don't see a problem with that.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 08:36:26 CDT
From: "Steve Traynor" <dartster@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: WHEELS FALLING OFF (WAS Re: Hammering on spindles)

Make sure those lugs are torqued to spec folks. And if you get a nasty 
vibration that seems to come from nowhere, pull over right then and there 
and check the lugs. You won't get very far up the road otherwise.>>

I know the feelin there. Was driving err..<sweats a lil at the thought> 
higher than posted limit and I was getting this really nasty vibration from 
the front. Now, this was a bit different from the NORMAL vibration I have in 
the front, so I got a lil worried. Made it to the place I was going, and 
checked the lugs. All of em were loose. Scared the snot outta me. I check 
the lugs when I'm driving my baby at least once a week, and I'm scared to 
put the hubcaps back on due to it. <chuckles> It's amazing what kind of fear 
ya have, after it's all over.






Steve
1970 Cutlass S Hardtop
Garland, TX
ICQ# 108901, Use "Olds list" as Request for Authorization

Favorite motivational line, seen at a Renassaince Faire: "The beatings will 
continue until morale is up!"




_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 09:36:09 EDT
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: pageing lawrence dagate/oca nationals

would anyone happen to have a ph# for this person or know how i might get in 
touch with a member of the national meet in dallas this year?  i sent in my 
entry form (priority mail)  but the post office says it may be lost!  i kept 
my delivery confirmation receipt and have checked daily to see if they 
received , now the post office says it may have gotten misplaced or was not 
scaned into there system yet.  they advise me to check with oca in dallas to 
see if they did get it.   tia.  steven, w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 09:48:31 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Round 19, carb problems

>Problems: Will hesitate and backfire BIG time  at part throttle whenever it
>is cold. It is so bad it has trouble moving on hills, as the engine will
cut
>out and eventually stall under any load from a stop.

Bummer.

>So far, the feedback quadrajet  has been taking apart and put back together
>three times, two new tps sensors, a new mixture control solenoid, new
>accelerator pump, needle and seat, etc. Solenoid dwell on time averages to
>50%, with a dwell reading of 30-31. This is spec for this carb.


Sounds like the carb is OK and O2 Sensor is OK. Especially if you have no
error codes in the ECM. M/C duty cycle wouldn't be right if there was a
vacuum leak or fuel delivery problem. It's something else.

>Ignition system has been completely rebuilt, new plugs, wires, rotors,
coil,
>and even an ignition module. The ECM appears to be functioning normally.
>


A sticking valve? Check the compression cold. Check the plugs and see if one
of them looks different from the rest. Plugs will tell you if the problem is
related to one cyl or all of them.

Worn distributor? Timing chain? Does your timing show any jitter or is it
rock solid?

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 09:10:34 -0500
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
Subject: Re: EXHAUST MANIFOLDS

you bet all the folks who cant spell are always correcting me so I figure
why not...LOL...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Gene Gatti <jerseydevil@mindspring.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, May 29, 1999 4:49 AM
Subject: Re: EXHAUST MANIFOLDS


> Hi KK,
>
> *** Tongue in Cheek Mode ON ***
>
> Oh yeah, a guy that never uses punctuation is correcting someone else for
> using all caps. Now I've seen it all :-)
>
> *** Tongue in Cheek Mode OFF ***
>
> Just kidding,
> Gene
>
>
>
> At 12:21 AM 5/29/99 -0500, you wrote:
> >check the parts for sale on 442.com and look on E-Bay and maybe check
with
> >Jim Chermac and maybe turn off the caps lock...KK
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: <Shogun60@aol.com>
> >To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> >Sent: Friday, May 28, 1999 10:07 PM
> >Subject: EXHAUST MANIFOLDS
> >
> >
> >> WHATS A BROTHER GOT TO DO TO GET SOME OLDS 442 EXH MANIFOLDS AROUND
HERE?
> >I
> >> HAVE A 455 C.I. WITH TURBO 400 TRANNY. BEST PRICE SO FAR IS $495. MORE
> >THAN
> >> WHAT I WANT TO PAY BUT WOULD RATHER NOT GO TO HEADERS. ANY IDEAS ON IF
> >> NON-442 MANIFOLDS WOULD WORK?
> >> THANKS.
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 09:42:03 -0400
From: "jhurd" <jhurd@neo.rr.com>
Subject: Dual Exhaust

	I've been thinking about installing the stock 442 duals setup on my 87
Salon.  Isn't there a Hooker 2.5 cat back system that fits this car?  I
think Tom  Lentz installed this system.  Does anyone have the part # as it
isn't listed in the summit catalog.  Also, is it mandrel bent and stainless
or not?  What luck have people had with the Walker replacement setup as far
as durability and fit?  TIA




Jim H.
'87 Salon    

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 10:22:46 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Hammering on spindles (was: pickle forx)

>>I recently replaced the lower ball-joints on my '72 Supreme, they were 
Moog units, and the instruction sheet that came in the box with each 
one specifically states that one should *never* hammer on a spindle, 
as that can cause sudden failure of the spindle later. Note that this 
advice came directly from a very respected manufacturer of suspension 
parts, who should know what they are talking about.

It is easy to start a microscopic crack or other stress-riser in a 
part by hammering on it, and this can later grow into a big enough 
crack to break the part in two.<<


OK John, 1st off please don't take this as a flame.  2nd please keep
in mind that large companies in this day and age are covering their
a$$es in every conceivable way to keep from being sued.  I would
be shocked to find that any person on this list always reads every
list of cautions and warnings on everything they use.  This is simply
because they have gotten so silly and generic that they of little use
anymore.  3rd a spindle is actually made of two different types of 
metal.  The shaft that holds the bearings and hub has a much higher
nickel content than the rest which makes it very hard.  The rest of
the spindle is a much softer steel.  This softer steel does not cause
hairline cracks when hit, but deforms.  It is a function of a materials
hardness that determines if it will crack or deform.  Another thing
is that if you look carefully at the spindle, there are often fairly meaty
"pads" next to the joints where it is easiest to hit them.  In effect, all
you are doing is peening the metal if done correctly.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/
 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 15:55:19 -0500
From: "Charles A. Dempsey" <cdemps@lsumc.edu>
Subject: RE: Hammering on spindles. Try this.

Here's an old post of mine from the April 7th digest. This thing worked
like a charm for me. Did any of you guys try it?

cdemps@lsumc.edu wrote:

> "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com> wrote:

>> the 
>> manual shows a special tool used to press the lower ball-joints in and 
>> out of the lower control arm.

> Just got through with this job. My '71 manual shows a cute little tool
> that looks like a minature jack. I don't have one, and I don't like to
> beat on the front end, so I  made one.

> Take a 2 1/2 to 3 inch long 1/2 NF 20 thread bolt, put the nut on about
> half way, put one or two flat washers on after the nut, and slip a 9/16
> inch deep socket over the threads. Loosen the ball joint nut two or
> three turns and slip your "tool" in between the upper and lower BJ
> studs. Back off the nut and the socket will force the taper out of the
> spindle. I used 10 inch open end wrenches and it required a moderate
> amount of force to pop the stud out the taper.

I figure this will come up from time to time, so I immortalized this
"tool" thingie on a web page. Please see
<http://hplc3.phar.lsumc.edu/tool.html>.

I can't leave the Apache server running forever. The machine's got other
things to do. If any of you would like to grab the file for your Olds
tech page please do so. Just leave the attributions intact.

Charles

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 16:03:54 -0500
From: "Charles A. Dempsey" <cdemps@lsumc.edu>
Subject: Wanted: '76-77 Cutlass Supreme rear window trim.

Hi,

I'm going to remove the "vinyl top of death" from the '76 CS.
Unfortunately the rear window trim is different on the vinyl top and
non-vinyl top versions.. Anybody got a non-vinyl top '76-77 CS that
they're parting out? I need the rear window stainless and any other trim
specific to the plain top.

I've searched *all* the yards in a 100 mile radius of Shreveport, LA and
so far found nothing.

e-mail cdemps@lsumc.edu off the list please.

Thanks,
Charles

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 13:38:53 -0400
From: "Jim and Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: 71 D-88 Parting Out

Lisa,
    What condition are the rear quarters in?  I need to replace my 'bondoed'
quarters eventually and am keeping my eyes open for sheet metal.  Please let
me know.

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible  OCA# 031463
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
>
> My neighbor bought this at a local tow auction.  He is keeping the 455
> heads, the motor appears to have been run hot & there's metal where there
> shouldn't be.  It is a 4 door, green w/ green interior.  He is keeping it
> at the yard (he works as a tow driver also) for a short time, if anyone
has
> anything they need off this beast - e-mail me privately.  Again, he only
> needs the heads.  Motor is extremely clean on the outside, a shame someone
> ran it into the ground otherwise.
>
> "Lisa Madsen" <Lisa@hotglass.com>
>
> Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile - Home Page
> http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 14:38:19 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: pageing lawrence dagate/oca nationals

W30442CS@aol.com wrote:
> 
> would anyone happen to have a ph# for this person or know how i might get in
> touch with a member of the national meet in dallas this year?  i sent in my
> entry form (priority mail)  but the post office says it may be lost!  i kept
> my delivery confirmation receipt and have checked daily to see if they
> received , now the post office says it may have gotten misplaced or was not
> scaned into there system yet.  they advise me to check with oca in dallas to
> see if they did get it.   tia.  steven, w30442cs@aol.com

I just got a registration confirmation from them, so I you didn't get a
confirmation they probably don't have it.  All I have on the
confirmation is a po box.  You probably want a phone number.  Isn't
there one in any of the JWOs?

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 15:01:13 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Fw: Quarter panel replace

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- ----- Original Message -----=20
From: steve harris=20
To: Olds E-mail Ring=20
Sent: Saturday, May 29, 1999 2:44 PM
Subject: Quarter panel replace


 Hi list,
This is a repost.  I have to replace both quarter panels on my 71 442 =
hard top.  Does any one have experience with this?  I am going to =
attempt to do this myself.  I would appreciate any tips or tricks you =
can offer.  I do not trust any body shop with this step.
PS is there such a thing as an electric water pump for the OLDs 455?  If =
so who makes them?
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html

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<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----=20
<DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> <A=20
href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net" title=3Dmeso@pamlico.net>steve =
harris</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>To:</B> <A href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca"=20
title=3Doldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>Olds E-mail Ring</A> </DIV>
<DIV><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, May 29, 1999 2:44 PM</DIV>
<DIV><B>Subject:</B> Quarter panel replace</DIV></DIV>
<DIV><BR></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;Hi list,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>This is a repost.&nbsp; I have to replace both =
quarter panels=20
on my 71 442 hard top.&nbsp; Does any one have experience with =
this?&nbsp; I am=20
going to attempt to do this myself.&nbsp; I would appreciate any tips or =
tricks=20
you can offer.&nbsp; I do not trust any body shop with this =
step.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PS is there such a thing as an electric water pump =
for the=20
OLDs 455?&nbsp; If so who makes them?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A><BR>Steve<BR>North=20
Carolina<BR>ICQ#26466860<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html">http://members.xoo=
m.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html</A></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 15:28:43 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: gasket for firewall(and happy memorial day)

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I have been looking for a gasket for the blower housing.  I thought I =
had seen a replacement for the heater fan in Year One,  but they don't =
have it.  Does anyone know if one is made? ....or can I just RTV it in =
place.  I do not think the RTV will look right.  The car is non-AC.
PS (non-olds)-  I again have to agree with Mr.  Biggs.  This goes out to =
all.  Have a happy and safe Memorial Day!  Take time to remember those =
who gave it all.  With out them we would not have the freedom we today.  =
The only car we would be able to restore would be a Volkswagon!
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html

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<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I have been looking for a gasket for the blower =
housing.&nbsp;=20
I thought I had seen a replacement for the heater fan in Year One,&nbsp; =
but=20
they don't have it.&nbsp; Does anyone know if one is made?&nbsp;....or =
can I=20
just RTV it in place.&nbsp; I do not think the RTV will look =
right.&nbsp; The=20
car is non-AC.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>PS (non-olds)-&nbsp; I again have to agree with =
Mr.&nbsp;=20
Biggs.&nbsp; This goes out to all.&nbsp; Have a happy and safe Memorial=20
Day!&nbsp; Take time to remember those who gave it all.&nbsp; With out =
them we=20
would not have the freedom we today.&nbsp; The only car we would be able =
to=20
restore would be a Volkswagon!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A><BR>Steve<BR>North=20
Carolina<BR>ICQ#26466860<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html">http://members.xoo=
m.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html</A></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BEA9E7.EFBF8C40--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 16:19:16 EDT
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hammering on spindles. Try this. Ummmm

In a message dated 5/29/99 11:30:59 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
cdemps@lsumc.edu writes:

<< "tool" thingie on a web page. Please see
 <http://hplc3.phar.lsumc.edu/tool.html>.
  >>
Doesn't work...suggestions?
Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 17:14:15 -0500
From: "Walker" <pwalker@megavision.com>
Subject: Re: Quarter panel replace

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  You are either very brave or very stupid to try to replace your =
quarters with no previous experience. Try to find a shop that has done =
olds quarters before, and ask them for references. Then try to look at =
some of these previous jobs to determine the quality.
If you are then still bent on doing it yourself, proceed slowly and =
carefully. Measure everything twice, and cut very carefully. Do not use =
very much heat when you weld the new ones on, as they can warp badly. =
Remove at the factory seams.
    -----Original Message-----
    From: steve harris <meso@pamlico.net>
    To: Olds E-mail Ring <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
    Date: Saturday, May 29, 1999 1:55 PM
    Subject: Fw: Quarter panel replace
   =20
   =20
   =20
    ----- Original Message -----=20
    From: steve harris=20
    To: Olds E-mail Ring=20
    Sent: Saturday, May 29, 1999 2:44 PM
    Subject: Quarter panel replace
   =20
   =20
     Hi list,
    This is a repost.  I have to replace both quarter panels on my 71 =
442 hard top.  Does any one have experience with this?  I am going to =
attempt to do this myself.  I would appreciate any tips or tricks you =
can offer.  I do not trust any body shop with this step.
    PS is there such a thing as an electric water pump for the OLDs 455? =
 If so who makes them?
    meso@pamlico.net
    Steve
    North Carolina
    ICQ#26466860
    http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html

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<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 =
Transitional//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp; You are either very brave or =
very stupid=20
to try to replace your quarters with no previous experience. Try to find =
a shop=20
that has done olds quarters before, and ask them for references. Then =
try to=20
look at some of these previous jobs to determine the =
quality.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>If you are =
then still bent=20
on doing it yourself, proceed slowly and carefully. Measure everything =
twice,=20
and cut very carefully. Do not use very much heat when you weld the new =
ones on,=20
as they can warp badly. Remove at the factory seams.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>steve harris &lt;<A=20
    href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A>&gt;<BR><B>To: =
</B>Olds=20
    E-mail Ring &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>&g=
t;<BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>Saturday, May 29, 1999 1:55 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Fw: Quarter =
panel=20
    replace<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message -----=20
    <DIV style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; font-color: black"><B>From:</B> =
<A=20
    href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net" title=3Dmeso@pamlico.net>steve =
harris</A>=20
</DIV>
    <DIV><B>To:</B> <A href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca"=20
    title=3Doldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>Olds E-mail Ring</A> </DIV>
    <DIV><B>Sent:</B> Saturday, May 29, 1999 2:44 PM</DIV>
    <DIV><B>Subject:</B> Quarter panel replace</DIV></DIV>
    <DIV><BR></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;Hi list,</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>This is a repost.&nbsp; I have to replace both =
quarter=20
    panels on my 71 442 hard top.&nbsp; Does any one have experience =
with=20
    this?&nbsp; I am going to attempt to do this myself.&nbsp; I would=20
    appreciate any tips or tricks you can offer.&nbsp; I do not trust =
any body=20
    shop with this step.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>PS is there such a thing as an electric water =
pump for the=20
    OLDs 455?&nbsp; If so who makes them?</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A><BR>Steve<BR>North=20
    Carolina<BR>ICQ#26466860<BR><A=20
    =
href=3D"http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html">http://members.xoo=
m.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html</A></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01BEA9F6.ADE57E60--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 16:36:54 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Hammering on spindles. Try this. Ummmm

RCKTPWR@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 5/29/99 11:30:59 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> cdemps@lsumc.edu writes:
> 
> << "tool" thingie on a web page. Please see
>  <http://hplc3.phar.lsumc.edu/tool.html>.
>   >>
> Doesn't work...suggestions?

Type http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html and go to
Misc.  Charles's URL worked fine for me and he did say we were free to
copy it so...
- -- 

Cliff "Snaggit" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 17:18:57 -0600
From: "Jeff Newman" <newsance@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Round 19, carb problems

Needle and seat in carb stuck open, I replaced and drove it down to the
local firestone (aka "bend over for services to be rendered") to get the m/c
solenoid recalibrated. I had to remove the adjusting screw and didn't have
the correct gauge. From that point on, it has run like this, no matter what
parts have been thrown at it.
- -----Original Message-----
From: KarlAunan@aol.com <KarlAunan@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, May 29, 1999 5:30 AM
Subject: Re: Round 19, carb problems


>In a message dated 99-05-29 01:21:34 EDT, you write:
>
><< Problems: Will hesitate and backfire BIG time  at part throttle whenever
it
> is cold.  >>
>
>So when did the problems start?
>
>SOM
>
>&KA
>

________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 17:30:55 -0600
From: "Jeff Newman" <newsance@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Round 19, carb problems

Ok new update on the problems with my Bu.  I pulled out my dwell tach today,
and hooked it up to the m/c lead in the harness. Needle stayed right at 48
degrees. Drove the car around for a few minutes. Checked wc solnoid on-time
again. 48 degrees.

HAMMERED IT AROUND TOWN FOR 20 MINUTES. Thermostat wide open, upper radiator
hose so pressurized I could barely squeeze it. What is the dwell reading?
You guessed it... 48 degrees. No jitter, no nothing.

Tried covering the air horn with a rag. Engine idles extremely rough for
thirty seconds, but dwell is 48 DEGREES.

Disconnected pcv hose, major vacuum leak. 48 DEGREES.

WTF?????? No error codes engine warm as hell, but it is not ever in closed
loop mode. WHY? Any suggestions?

________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 16:37:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: terry moore <tc_moore@yahoo.com>
Subject: sway bar swap

I have an 86 olds salon,and i'm looking for a rear sway  bar set up
from a donor car.What I need to know is,which car is a good donor match
and what I need to get to hook it up to my current rear end.Any help
would be great,Thanks                                                  
                    Terry 86 Salon

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 19:44:40 EDT
From: Supafli50@aol.com
Subject: Re: WHEELS FALLING OFF (WAS Re: Hammering on spindles)

I know that vibration but like I said earlier, I kept going.  Now I'm so 
paranoid whenever I feel a little wobble or anything I check them.  Don't 
want to mess up my car ever again.  

Matt
88 Cutlass Supreme Int.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 20:09:05 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: sway bar swap

> I have an 86 olds salon,and i'm looking for a rear sway  bar set up
> from a donor car.What I need to know is,which car is a good donor match
> and what I need to get to hook it up to my current rear end.Any help
> would be great,Thanks
>                     Terry 86 Salon

Just so happens Summit carries a Hellwig G-Tech Sway bar for $119.60 with
all attaching hardware included and Polyurethane where needed. Sized for the
G-body rear. One on order for my '86. Will let you kmow.   Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse

ICQ# 5209322
Email: gjcouse@francomm.com
Web: http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 21:06:41 EDT
From: GregA80@aol.com
Subject: Not to turn my back on GM...

Hey list, not to snub my nose at GM, because I'm still a GM man tried and 
true, but I just drove a 98 Jaguar XK8  4 litre, and OH MY LORD.  I was 
wondering why I was passing everybody on the highway, until I looked down at 
the speedometer and it said 90...I've never experienced such a smooth ride, 
or that much pick up off the line in my life.  Anyone out there driven one 
that they can compare with a GM product?  I'd love to hear... :-)  Thanks 
   ~Greg

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 21:04:47 -0400
From: "Rob Lewis" <fever@planeteer.com>
Subject: Re: turn signal falling off 68 442

Ya sorry I didn't mention a few things
I disconnected the choke to eliminate that problem
also the idle screws do nothing, in tight or backed off.1/2 turns.
I can deal with a little rich but I think this is a problem
somewhere.
There seams to be lots of manifold vacuum
and no noticeable leaks.
I get it where the mixture is not bad with the fast idle screw
but it idles to fast "duh".I take it back down and I get the black smoke
and rich mix.I need less fuel and more air and my mixture screws do
nothing.
I've heard a trick of drilling two small holes in the primary throttle
plates 
but that scares me a little.Maybe smaller jets would be the answer.
I'm guessing only.
Thanks for the help. 
Rob




> From: Mike Bloomer <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: turn signal falling off 68 442
> Date: Thursday, May 27, 1999 8:53 PM
> 
> >Thanks hopefully I'll get away with the screws.
> >How are you with carbs.
> >68 442 400 auto 
> >It burns rich on Idle other than that it's fine.
> >Had it apart no visible problems.
> >I'm wondering if the floats to high?
> >Or I need smaller jets?
> >Thanks for your time
> >Rob
> 
> 
> Rob,
> The question is, how good are you with carbs?  I don't know your
> experience level and don't want to point out the obvious, but.....
> 
> Have you adjusted the idle mixture screws?  One small screw on
> each side of the front of the carb.  Tighten them down will lean it
> out and loosening them will richen it up.  Basically you want
> them set even and the stock spec is something like 2 1/2 turns out
> from their fully seated position.  Adjust them evenly in 1/2 turn 
> increments until you get the highest idle speed.
> 
> So you say you already tried that?  OK, are you sure that the choke
> is coming off all the way?  If the choke plate over the primaries isn't
> completely vertical then that will give you a rich condition.  Let
> me know if you've checked both of these and I'll come up with some
> more.  You also may want to try out Karl's Rochester web site.  
> Don't have the link but he has them at the end of his posts.  Let
> me know how things go.  I've got a 68 Supreme myself.  Mine 
> runs on the rich side since I have a set of late model, low comp. heads
> on it (I didn't do it!) and the CR is down to about 8.2 from the 9.0 that
> the carb is calibrated for.  Just a thought.
> 
> Mike Bloomer
> mbloomer@mindspring.com
> ICQ# 19113713
> http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 21:20:37 -0400
From: "Rob Lewis" <fever@planeteer.com>
Subject: where to put speakers 68 442 Rag

Don't want to hurt or change anything.
I would like to put some sound in the car.AM only.
I'll mount the player in the glove box.
But I need  ideas on where to put speakers.
68 442 Rag 
Thanks 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 18:28:18 -0700
From: tarzan@foxinternet.net
Subject: cam walk?

HELLO ALL!

Iv got a 1970 olds 442 w-25. im putting a performer intake manifold,carb
on the car and when i got the old sintake off i could see that the cam
and lifters didnt line up perfectly. The lifters were about 3/4 of the
way on cam, so i took a screw driver and applied gentle pressure to the
cam to see if it would move and it moved forward about  ahalf inch.
there is alittle pitting/rust and wear on the cam itself , but only
slight.   Does this sound like its time for  anew cam, lifters,timing
chain etc?

Since im this far im thinking i might want to get the heads done.(maybe
find  anice set of c heads) Where will it end HAHA!!!!

Thanks,DAN

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 21:36:12 EDT
From: Bbymks4@aol.com
Subject: Header Question

           Hey everybody, I know where there is a used set of Hooker headers, 
they
    are priced reasonable, and they are still in good condition. I know for 
sure that
    they are for an Oldsmobile 455, and that they came off of a 1970 Cutlass. 
My 
    question is will they fit on a ' 73?  I'm pretty sure that the frames are 
still the 
    same, but maybe there are other things to consider as far as clearance is 
    considered. Any information would be greatly appreaciated, Thanks 
from.....Steve

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 21:47:21 EDT
From: BOPMan455@aol.com
Subject: Re: Header Question

Steve, 
  According to my Jeg's Racing catalog, the headers will fit 65-75 Cutlass. 
You should have no problems putting them in yours.

Mike
70 Cutlass Supreme Coupe 455

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 22:25:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Swap Meet Today

So, there was a swap meet nearby today, Sunday too...

Saw Starfire sized 4-spoke sport steering wheel with horn button & everything
for $55. Picked up a Lightning Rod shifter assembly, bad news is, main lever is
not only broke off, but totally missing. So now it's a 2 handle LR shifter.
Parts, I guess.

was looking at chrome trims, mentioned that I had a '68 "Cutlass" [heh, heh],
and guy overheard me, approached me, asked if I'd be interested in a "68 442
parts car"... tell me more, says I... Rusty, MI car, in storage at $100/mo
since '79 or so. black w/ bumblebee stripe... my ears pick up. Original 400, AT
with OG [huh?] trans... outside air induction air cleaner...

OK, when can I come see it, I inquires.

The lucky streak continues...

Oh, and... an NOS, in the box, with Olds Salvage sticker still in place, power
antenna similar to my 442's! At long last, not only a working one, but a NEW
one! Technically, the kit was designed for '71-up Big Car, but I think I have
the body mate pieces, the only apparent difference. Yee-hah, brand new Switch
with it, too.


- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 22:32:48 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Available: 68 FBM, 71-2 LHMirror

Might be of interest to the guy who just missed the '69 Fisher Body Manual,
the '68 and '69 are virtually identical:

1968 Fisher Body Manual, Good condition, about 0.7" thick, $25

also, have pretty nice '71-2 Cutlass Left Hand Mirror, chrome oval style, $20
seems fair. Will bargain.


- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 21:54:06 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: External VOltage Regulator 4sale

Selling a brand new external voltage regulator that came off of a 72 442.
IT is made by Standard Motor Products, Inc.. Worked perfectly. I converted
to an internal voltage regulator so I no longer need the unit. 
Asking $25.00


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 22:50:35 -0500
From: "Joe S" <jcrash7@geocities.com>
Subject: "Born Again" Olds listmember! (plus I want to buy a hubcap)

I don't know how many of you people remember me, but I'm Joe Sherbanenko w/
the 84 Delta 88 2 door (The Broham).  I've been slightly active on the Gbody
list, but haven't been on the Olds list for some time now.

Well, I'm just going to share some news with all you people who don't know
what's happened to my car in the past few months, but I've got it running
again, finally installed a JVC Cd player (going to swap it for a new
Pioneer, then throw the JVC in my recently aquired "F-body", will explain
later in the message),
stripped a lot of chrome off, including the hood ornament, etc...  Well, I
finally got it painted!  I went with the original Light Toupe Metallic for
now, so the car would be presentable.  (Primer is really ugly)  Gloss black
job later this summer.  Anyway, I need a new hubcap, because people really
like 'em, I guess.  All silver, with old-style Oldsmobile emblem in the
middle.  I can email a picture to anyone who thinks they have this hubcap to
sell me.  This summer, some Buick or Olds rallye wheels or some Z28 or IROC
wheels are going on.  I'll have some pics of my paint job as soon as I get
them developed, and will post them.

This summer, my plans include cat.-back dual exhaust, new speakers with a
sub (not for booming, just need some bass for my 70's-80's rock), and a
darker window tint (so my stereo doesn't get jacked).

Now to my "F"-body......Chrysler!!!! bet'cha didn't see that coming.  I got
a 79 Plymouth Volare Premier for FREE, but I don't know what to do with it
as I just store it at my grandma's house.  Anyway, the car is all original
and the slant six is in good shape w/ only 109k on it.  Right now it's just
serving as a backup for when the Delta is occasionally indisposed
temporarily.

Well, since summer's coming, I hope to have some time to re-aquiant myself
with my Olds family, take care all-

Joe     (Pretty fly for a white guy)      Sherbanenko
1984 Delta 2 door 307  (and a couple other cars)
Burnsville, MN                               ICQ #4856181
               Email- jcrash7@geocities.com
Website- new one coming soon

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 22:54:31 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Windshields

>Don't worry, I do it myself. I've done it a couple times before. Just got a
>little impatient on this one

O.K., my question is what do you use to seal the windshield back in with?
I just pulled the one out of my 68 yesterday and the original gasket and
silicone? was still intact.  Do I need to find a new gasket?  Can I just use
a silicone adhesive?  The windshield is delaminating a bit and I put a small
crack in it but I figure I can get by for a while on this one, once I fix
the rust
on the dash.  Quite sickening though, once I got all the rusty stuff cut
out.
Oh well, I guess there is a reason I bought a welder!

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 23:40:44 -0500
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
Subject: Re: Windshields

go to your local auto paint outlet and get a roll of 3M 3/8" butyl tape, for
windshields its a sticky stuff kike tar you press it into place and set the
glass on top of it and it sticks to it then you squirt the black sticky
windshield sealant on it for a better seal, it is called windoweld...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Bloomer <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, May 29, 1999 10:54 PM
Subject: Re: Windshields


> >Don't worry, I do it myself. I've done it a couple times before. Just got
a
> >little impatient on this one
>
> O.K., my question is what do you use to seal the windshield back in with?
> I just pulled the one out of my 68 yesterday and the original gasket and
> silicone? was still intact.  Do I need to find a new gasket?  Can I just
use
> a silicone adhesive?  The windshield is delaminating a bit and I put a
small
> crack in it but I figure I can get by for a while on this one, once I fix
> the rust
> on the dash.  Quite sickening though, once I got all the rusty stuff cut
> out.
> Oh well, I guess there is a reason I bought a welder!
>
> Mike Bloomer
> mbloomer@mindspring.com
> ICQ# 19113713
> http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 01:02:38 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Not to turn my back on GM...

In a message dated 99-05-29 21:08:27 EDT, you write:

<< , but I just drove a 98 Jaguar XK8  4 litre,  >>

Is it just us, or have others heard that Jaguar excells at planned 
obsolescence.
((comes complete with infant body cancer))

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 22:00:43 -0700 (PDT)
From: EDMUND WILLIAMS <efw67@yahoo.com>
Subject: Someone Help I Need 70 88/98 front fenders badly

Someone out there please help me find a good pair of 70 88/98 front
fenders to complete my project 70 Delta88 Custom Sedan. there must be
someone out there with these parts. Thanks, Ed from New York

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------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 22:12:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: EDMUND WILLIAMS <efw67@yahoo.com>
Subject: My 85 Cutlass burns oil and blue smoke comes out of tailpipe

I have an 85 Cutlass Supreme with a 307 4bbl carb. It burns oil and has
high mileage. Blue smoke comes out of the tailpipe. What is the cause
of this? I have to add a quart of oil ever 4 to 5 days. I've tried oil
treatments engine restore and nothing seems to work. Do I need an
engine rebuild? I hope not! someone please help solve this problem. Ed
from New York.

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 01:14:37 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: My 85 Cutlass burns oil and blue smoke comes out of tailpipe

In a message dated 99-05-30 01:10:43 EDT, you write:

<<  It burns oil and has high mileage. Blue smoke comes out of the tailpipe. 
>>

Your oil/compression rings are worn and oil is getting past them and burning 
in the cylinder. This is where you are losing oil.
As you say, you are burning it.

Sorry, but Good Luck!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 23:27:12 -0700
From: Jim Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: 71 D-88 Parting Out

Is yours a 4 door?  This car is high and dry - how come the big cars don't 
have as much rot in the front fenders as our dear A bodies?!  I'll check 
with my neighbor, I don't recall any rust, but can't remember what the 
dent/ding condition was.

Lisa

------------------------------

Date: 29 May 99 23:40:37 PDT
From: Randy Hermsen <76cutlass@netscape.net>
Subject: 76rear sway swap to 72 cutlass??

Hi all
Went to swap meet today(fun fun fun)scored b.f goodrich tires 70 for pair like
new 245 60 15.Saw a sway bar for my 72 cutlass supreme conv.100.00 bucks  no
way after tires ,Ive got my 76 442 rear sway left over from puttin on the 1
inch bar Im runnin now ,I installed the g.m. brackets that fit up inside the
control arms before Id like to use the 76 rear sway on the 72????Ive been told
the brackets that fit up inside control arms actually stregthen the arm?Is the
configuration of the sway bars the same ???length,width,curves tell me it fits
please tryin to save a buck lolol
thanks for info in advance hardly saw any olds cars at swap meet we are all
becomin a rare breed.Sorry about not on time with web pics on site scanner is
down  :(  http://mypage.goplay.com/Cutlass72-76/.
Also thanks to Lou for cool car sale site http://www.specialinterest.com/
saw a 72 cutlass conv. same as mine I wish its a w-30  442 same color as mine
Saturn gold looks like same except for black decals.
                             happy oldsmobiling

                       Randy and Kricket
                              76 Cutlass Supreme
                                  72 Cutlass Supreme ragtop 

____________________________________________________________________
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http://webmail.netscape.com.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 03:39:15 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: My 85 Cutlass burns oil and blue smoke comes out of tailpipe

Do I need an
> engine rebuild? I hope not! someone please help solve this problem. Ed
> from New York.

With high mileage and such high quantity of oil burned the reality is that
the motor is tired.  The piston rings/cylinder bore are worn and so are your
valve guieds.  There is really little that you can do to stop the burning
short of a rebuild.  Engine rebuilding is not as "hard" as it might seem.
It costs some, but is worth it if the car is still good.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 03:55:07 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: WENT Drag Racing Again

Well, I took my Delta out again this weekend to the track.  It was lots of
fun again.  My numbers improved and I did nothing to the car but play with
my air-pressure in my air-shocks to aid launch.  It was also a warmer day
with no rain that day so bit better traction, but still far from good.  The
car ran low 15s first two runs, but after I got a hang of the launch (no
traction on those 15s runs), it ran consistent 14.80s all night.  Being in
the 14s sure is nice Vs. the 15s.  I still think that the car can do more on
as-is trim.  It runs strong through second gear, but it pukes at the top
(very small cam, almost stock).  My MPH is only 94 and I am going through
traps just under 4000.  I know that a bigger cam would bring up my top end,
but I don't want to try that for now.

Before the runs, there was quite a number of cars there.  Lots of Mustangs
and Chevys (what else is new) and only one other Olds.  There was a new
Camaro with a Vortec Supercharger.  He ran just a tad faster then me, 14.7s
I think and another Mustang blown as well, doing low 14s.  I beat every
single Chevy I was up against and lost to 2 out of 5 Mustangs I raced.  Both
of the times was out of the hole as they somehow just hook those tires.
Anyhow, I was quite happy that my Delta did so well compared to some of
those other cars.  The Supercharger cost that Camaro owner $3000 + install
(Canadian).  My entire motor/tranny/rear end plus 50% of body work cost that
much.  Crazy.  Not to mention 40,000 that he paid for it a year ago.  It was
a nice car, no doubt, with a good exhaust system but still.  Lots of people
looked at my car and commented that it ran strong for a big boat with a
smooth, 500 RPM idle, stock exhaust manifolds and everything else.  Was
cool.

Anyway, I need to up my MPH somehow.  Going with a bigger cam would work,
but I hope that timing advance and headers should do the trick.  Went up
against a Monte with a 454 and headers.  I beat him both races and my times
were faster then his all night, but from 75 MPH on, he was coming fast.  The
guy said that headers made a big difference on his motor up top.  I raced
another 454 Camaro, beat him too but did not talk to the guy.  What should I
do to up my MPH.  Thanks.

Igor Todorovic
1981 Delta 88 4-door (455/th400/3.23s)

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 29 May 1999 23:40:00 -0700
From: Jim Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Warm Running conditions

My '72 has presented me with some slightly puzzling conditions.  It has 
been timed to the manual's specs (10 degrees, dwell at 30, points new in 
the dist at 14-16, not what the manual recommended), has a new distributor, 
and a new(er) radiator (not sure if 2 or 3 row however).   I have a brand 
new set of Stewart/Warner gauges in it.  Its a 350/4bbl with about 
110,000.  Plugs when pulled 2x in a row are like new  and identical across 
the board on all 8 cylinders (I've literally never seen plugs look that good).

With a 180 thermostat, sitting at a stop light for say a 'long' light, the 
temp runs at just under 200.  Took the thermostat out just to see what that 
produced (thermostat appeared to be newer but I didn't test it).  The car 
still does the same thing when it sits as described above.  Note, when put 
in neutral is heats up a bit slower.

Fan - stock clutch fan that *appears* to work properly.  I am no fan of 
these and normally replace with flex fans (a long story).  Could this be 
the culprit?

Secondly, this might not be related but I can't remember what I was 
told  previously, but when you rev it up, say to  clear it out a bit when 
its loading up from sitting, the rpm's come down noticeably slower then 
when you hit the throttle.  Is that  timing chain related?

I have *NEVER* had an Olds that ran hot - or warm - unless the timing was 
radically off.  I don't like not being able to *sit* in traffic, or 
whatever.  I've never had this occur before.

Any & all suggestions are welcomed!!!!



"Lisa Madsen" <Lisa@hotglass.com>

Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile - Home Page
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 08:26:41 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Round 19, carb problems

>Disconnected pcv hose, major vacuum leak. 48 DEGREES.
>
>WTF?????? No error codes engine warm as hell, but it is not ever in closed
>loop mode. WHY? Any suggestions?


Only thing I can think of is the temperature sender. The ECM won't go into
closed loop mode until the engine warms up. But a bad coolant sensor would
set code 14 or 15...

BTW you ARE using the 6-cyl dwell scale aren't you? 48 degrees sounds
funky - open loop mode defaults to a 50% duty cycle at the MCS, which is 30
deg on a 6-cyl scale. 48 degrees is...umm....dunno.

The factory troubleshooting charts for "fixed dwell" problems include
checking wiring connections at the ECM itself (bad connections or broken
wires). If you don't have the factory manuals, e-mail me directly and I'll
try to give as much detail as possible.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 08:30:51 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: "Born Again" Olds listmember! (plus I want to buy a hubcap)

>I don't know how many of you people remember me, but I'm Joe Sherbanenko w/
>the 84 Delta 88 2 door (The Broham).  I've been slightly active on the
Gbody
>list, but haven't been on the Olds list for some time now.


Welcome back.

>Anyway, I need a new hubcap, because people really
>like 'em, I guess.  All silver, with old-style Oldsmobile emblem in the
>middle.

I got one from the local bone yard for 10 bucks. They had a whole pile of
'em.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 08:36:56 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Wanted: '76-77 Cutlass Supreme rear window trim.

>I'm going to remove the "vinyl top of death" from the '76 CS.
>Unfortunately the rear window trim is different on the vinyl top and
>non-vinyl top versions..

I looked at a 79 CS that had the vinyl roof removed. They just put a rubber
gasket arount the outside of the rear window. Looked like hell.

Aren't there weld studs required to attach the trim? I don't think you can
just glue the stuff on.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 09:06:20 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Oldsmogrumbling

<sigh>

Did a tune-up on the Delta yesterday. Runs worse than before. Makes clunking
noises and shakes at idle. Gotta do it all over again and see what I did
wrong.

Why did Olds make the spark plug access so tight? The plug socket gets
jammed against the head casting, and you can't tell when it's torqued
properly. PMRO (P*sses Me Right Off).

And that damn A.I.R. "diverter" valve hangin' over the right side is just
_totally_ in the way. Has anybody relocated that thing somewhere that makes
sense? Grrrr...

Guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow.....

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 09:06:13 -0700
From: "Peter Berusch" <berusch@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Warm Running conditions

  Lisa, I don,t think 200 degrees is running way too hot at a long idle.  I
don't know the ambient temperature where you are, but the hotter it is
outside, the more difficult it is for the coolant to slough heat.  If the
temp drops quickly when you resume movement and does not creep up when on a
sustained highway run, then I'll say the radiator is flowing adequately and
is not terribly calcified.  This being the case (guessing here that it is)
you're not moving enough air/coolant through the radiator at idle.  Could be
fan clutch, could be your base idle should come up a bit to move both fan
and water pump with a little more vigor.  The spark plug condition suggests
good things happening in the combustion chambers.  Rings and valves are OK.
Have you considered a loose timing chain?  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 09:08:50 -0400 (EDT)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Re: WENT Drag Racing Again

HI Igor,

It's cool to hear you're having so much fun with your Delta...

I recently had my 455 rebuilt, and the people that rebuilt it told me that
headers wouldn't make that much difference for the big block, not to justify
the cost and added heat under the hood. Mine has the stock manifolds.

You may want to consider a "performance" exhaust of some kind before fooling
with headers.

BTW, were there any turbo Regals i.e. Grand Nationals at the strip? If so,
how did they do?

Keep it up, 

Chris

At 03:55 AM 5/30/99 -0600, you wrote:
>Well, I took my Delta out again this weekend to the track.  It was lots of
>fun again.  My numbers improved and I did nothing to the car but play with

>Anyway, I need to up my MPH somehow.  Going with a bigger cam would work,
>but I hope that timing advance and headers should do the trick.  Went up
>against a Monte with a 454 and headers.  I beat him both races and my times
>were faster then his all night, but from 75 MPH on, he was coming fast.  The
>guy said that headers made a big difference on his motor up top.  I raced
>another 454 Camaro, beat him too but did not talk to the guy.  What should I
>do to up my MPH.  Thanks.
>
>Igor Todorovic
>1981 Delta 88 4-door (455/th400/3.23s)
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 09:18:03 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: WENT Drag Racing Again

Boy they have some slow supercharged mustangs out there....around here at 
Englishtown and Atco New Jersey.....the mustangs with the superchargers run 
mostly in the 12s and of course there are the ones that dip into the 11s and 
10s that are still streetable.   14 second mustangs around here are totally 
stock.....For the size of your car and the cam you are running and no 
slicks..You did great!!!  You should be very proud!!  Crossing the line at 
4000 isnt helping, so either go with a shorter tire or a steeper gear and 
some slicks and you might even see high 13s!!!   Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 09:20:31 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: Warm Running conditions

Sounds normal to me....200 degrees will happen on a warm day and just sitting 
there with the car idling. When the car gets moving again it probably goes 
back down to the 180s......Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 09:18:09 -0400 (EDT)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Vista Cruiser pictures

Hey you Vista Cruiser guys, there's several pictures of these in
alt.binaries.pictures.autos right now. Go check it out...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 09:56:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: vfquick442@webtv.net (markas)
Subject: Re: WENT Drag Racing Again

Igor, What gas are you using? Try CAM 2 and bump the timing. That really
works in my 70.
Good Luck
Markas

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1985
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