Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1989


oldsmobile-digest        Tuesday, June 1 1999        Volume 01 : Number 1989



RE: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)
Re: 160 deg. VS. 180 deg
Re: 160 deg. VS. 180 deg
Re: 160 deg. VS. 180 deg
Re: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)
Re: Wanted 455 Alum Intake
Re: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)
Re: posi problems
Re: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1985
Re: '68 Cutlass grille needed
Bad Olds day
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1985
RE: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1985
Re: Bad Olds day
Re: Headers (Do or Don't them)
Re: Headers (Do or Don't them)
Re: DROPPING MOTORS/spinning motors
Re: Are you interested in a 1966 f-85 2drht parts car
Re: very Confused.
Re: WHEELS FALLING OFF 
Re: Headers (Do or Don't them)
Re: Are you interested in a 1966 f-85 2drht parts car
Fake W30 Opinions
Re: Headers (Do or Don't them)
Re: Fake W30 Opinions (2)
MIA
Selling 68 H/O in Ventura, Ca. 
Re: Street rocket web pages input
Re: Headers (Do or Don't them)
200r4
Re: 200r4
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1985
Headers (Do or Dont)
Re: DROPPING MOTORS/spinning motors
Re: W-27  Rear Cover
Re: New Olds nut?
Re: W-27  Rear Cover
RE: WHEELS FALLING OFF 
Re: 200r4
No More Performer?  WAS: Wanted 455 Alum Intake
Re: Wanted 455 Alum Intake
Re: Fake W30 Opinions (2)
Re: 200r4
Re: 200r4
KEVIN!!/ 200r4
flexfans shrouds&towtrucks+$
Re: Trailer Towing with my Delta
Re: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)
UNBOUNCE: re:Dot5
UNBOUNCE: Chicago meet
Headers, Yet another Question (from a different guy)
Custom Kick Panels w/ built in speakers?
Re: Fender patch panels

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 19:50:41 -0400
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)

How about getting some Asian sex slaves to fan your engine with large
leaves?


Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 3.8 Calais
Bucks County, PA
mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo


> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Moparrp@aol.com
> Sent: Monday, May 31, 1999 7:43 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)
>
>
> flex fans are great ,but here's another idea, how about trying electric?
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 19:25:46 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 160 deg. VS. 180 deg

YEs it would. With a 180 degree thermostat the car will not run cooler than
180 degrees. This is because the thermostat opens at that temperature. So
you car usually runs another 20 deg. more. So 200 degrees is about right.
With a 160* thermostat it should run 180*.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Igor Todorovic <igor455@home.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 160 deg. VS. 180 deg
> Date: Monday, May 31, 1999 5:26 PM
> 
> Will switching from a 180 high-flow thermostat to 160 high-flow make a
> difference and when/where.  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 19:30:46 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 160 deg. VS. 180 deg

Not to mention if a motor is running at 200* or more the oil WILL thin out
even more!! With new cars it is a different story but the old motors don't
really like that. Especially a 455 due to its large main and rod journals.
IT will even thin out 20W-50 oil if it gets hot enough and that will make
low oil pressure. Even though an Olds (UNLIKE A CHEVY) will run fine with
40-45 pounds of oil pressure at max RPM and full throttle. Mondello
recommends the car to run in the 180* range. The hotter temperature will
also make for more wear on the cylinder walls. The only advantage to
running hotter is that you will get better emissions.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Master Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: 160 deg. VS. 180 deg
> Date: Monday, May 31, 1999 5:41 PM
> 
> In an ideal situation, your car will run at 160.  That's a bit cool, I'd
> say, but there's a good chance your car won't run that cool anyway.  I
have
> a 160 in my car now, and it runs at around 170-175.  I found that I had
to
> put a 160 in because with a 180, I'd break 200 at times (usually after a
> trip down the Blue Route or something).  200's a bit too hot for me. 
160's
> a bit too cool for me.  180 just seems like such a nice temperature, not
> sure why, it just seems nice.  So, I'd say it depends on how your car
reacts
> to it.  If it reacts like mine, I say it's good.  If it stays at 160 all
the
> time, I'd go back with the 180.
> 
> Isn't great that this kinda stuff matters again.  It just reminds you
that
> the damn winter is over and it's time to drive again!
> 
> Ray Costanzo
> 87 409 Cutlass
> 84 3.8 Calais
> Bucks County, PA
> mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com
> http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo
> 
> 
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> > [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Igor Todorovic
> > Sent: Monday, May 31, 1999 6:26 PM
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: 160 deg. VS. 180 deg
> >
> >
> > Will switching from a 180 high-flow thermostat to 160 high-flow make a
> > difference and when/where.  Thanks.
> >

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 20:31:29 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: 160 deg. VS. 180 deg

In a message dated 5/31/99 5:25:26 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
PETTRIX@prodigy.net writes:

<< Even though an Olds (UNLIKE A CHEVY) will run fine with
 40-45 pounds of oil pressure at max RPM and full throttle. Mondello
 recommends the car to run in the 180* range. The hotter temperature will
 also make for more wear on the cylinder walls. The only advantage to
 running hotter is that you will get better emissions.
 Pettrix@prodigy.net >>

	Don't hotter combustion temps actually produce more power too? May be 
mistaken here, but doesn't high compression produce more heat? (I'm thinking 
thats the major reason CR dropped in the early 70's, along with other 
factors) Emissions are lower (at least NoX, right?) with lower combustion 
temperatures. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 20:35:55 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)

In a message dated 5/31/99 3:46:15 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
costanzo@netcarrier.com writes:

<< I knew my clutch was bad because the fan was making a roaring sound.
 Actually, I didn't know it was bad.  I described the sound to my Dad, and he
 told me that the clutch was probably bad.  I still don't know why a bad
 clutch would make the fan roar...I don't know. Something was bad so, I
 ditched it all.  I think it was a good idea.  I've had this water pump on my
 car for a while now!  I'm getting kinda bored!
 
 
 
 Ray Costanzo >>

	Depending on the "roaring" sound, it may have been bad. I am pretty 
sure when the stock fans "fail" (I believe they leak out the silicone or 
whatever they contain) they are constantly engaged, giving the typical sound 
of a fan that is engaged. They will definately roar when working correctly 
(they seem to engage right around 200, and stay on until 185 or so), but hard 
to hear the sound at anything but idle.     Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 19:18:13 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: Wanted 455 Alum Intake

At 03:10 PM 5/31/99 -0700, you wrote:
>NICK,
>I just purchased the last known edelbock performer aluminum intake.

WHAT?  Since when did Edelbrock stop making this?
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -------------
Brian Ammons	ICQ - 3585737
5606 Grape		b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
Houston, TX 77096	http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
			Home:	713-776-2110
1984 Oldsmobile	Pager:	713-318-5938
	Delta 88 RB
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- --------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 20:44:17 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)

In a message dated 5/31/99 3:19:11 PM Pacific Daylight Time, igor455@home.com 
writes:

<< Are Flex Fans worth the money.  My stock set-up works okay, except at idle.
 When I stage for a long time, the temp. gets up-to 200 degrees and I would
 like to keep it down.  I was told that flex fans "always" spin and that they
 don't have heat actuated clutches.  That should help at idle, as well as
 free up some ponies at the top end going down the track.  After all, flex
 fans are lighter and they, well, flex.
 
 Lets hear from someone who has ran this.  What about the noise?  Thanks. >>

	Friend of mine that drag races (unfortunately not Olds) says the ONLY 
reason he is running a flex fan is for weight savings. A flex fan is not 
helping at higher speeds, and may in fact hinder cooling, since they won't 
"stall" like stock fans, and let air pass hindered only by the size of the 
blades. As I have stated in my other posts, Olds fan clutches seem to come on 
at 200 degrees, and if your hitting that temp on the freeway, the fan clutch 
is NOT your problem. They will stay on to about 185. My 403 which is 
(supposedly) too overbored (.060) in my 86 Cutlass is running a stock fan, 
and a 3 core factory radiator (new) and doesn't get much over 185 on the 
move. At idle, rarely approaches 195. And thats with a 180 thermostat. GM 
likely designed the thermostat and fan clutch to work together (temp wise) 
and if you change to a lower thermostat, the temperature may never rise high 
enough to activate the fan clutch. Just some thoughts, with experience mixed 
in, Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 20:52:46 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: posi problems

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BEABA7.89ADA7E0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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The bearings may be bad.  I would check the U - joints first.  If the =
"pop"  is happening when changing gears,  or under accleration or =
deceleration...I would think U joints.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Walker=20
  To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca=20
  Sent: Monday, May 31, 1999 7:24 PM
  Subject: posi problems


  I just installed a posi from a 66 Vista Cruiser in my 67 Cutlass. =
Every now and then, when backing up, I hear a bang or pop.
  Is this normal? I dont recall the posi in my 76 ever doing this. I =
added the diff additive from my local GM dealer. Any ideas?
  Is a constant whine coming from it also normal.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BEABA7.89ADA7E0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>The bearings may be bad.&nbsp; I would check the U - =
joints=20
first.&nbsp; If the "pop"&nbsp; is happening when changing gears,&nbsp; =
or under=20
accleration or deceleration...I would think U joints.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A><BR>Steve<BR>North=20
Carolina<BR>ICQ#26466860<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html">http://members.xoo=
m.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html</A></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A href=3D"mailto:pwalker@megavision.com"=20
  title=3Dpwalker@megavision.com>Walker</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A=20
  href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca"=20
  title=3Doldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Monday, May 31, 1999 7:24 =
PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> posi problems</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I just installed a posi from a 66 =
Vista=20
  Cruiser in my 67 Cutlass. Every now and then, when backing up, I hear =
a bang=20
  or pop.</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Is </FONT><FONT color=3D#000000 =
size=3D2>this=20
  normal? I dont recall the posi in my 76 ever doing this. I added the =
diff=20
  additive from my local GM dealer. Any ideas?</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Is a constant whine coming from it =
also=20
  normal.</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BEABA7.89ADA7E0--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 20:55:09 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)

I would watch those flex fans.  If you like to do the odd drag race from
time to time the fan blades can come loose.  Had a friend with one that took
a wild ride thru the hood!  Watch'em
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
- ----- Original Message -----
From: markas <vfquick442@webtv.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 31, 1999 7:25 PM
Subject: Re: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)


> Igor, Soon after I got my engine in ,I returned to builder with high
> running temps, at idle and increasing under load,He said yank that stock
> fan and put in this flex fan. Painted blades black and installed it .Cut
> temps down 30-35 degrees in all conditions.Worked like a dream,4+ years
> ago.Plus, The Whir sound they make ,I really like. I`d bet they move
> twice the air around.At idle, air blows all around engine compartment as
> if somehow pressurized.Worked for me!
>
>                                                    Markas
>                                         Worked 455 in 70 442
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 20:59:13 -0400
From: Jim Olson <jolson@edzone.net>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1985

Please pass this on to the list...

I have an '84 G body with a V6 and I assume 200 auto. I just bought it
yesterday so I haven't had time to look yet. The tranny works
wonderfully until I put it in reverse. There's NOTHING at all in
reverse, but forward works perfectly in all three. What might be wrong?

Please reply to me directly at jolson@edzone.net

Thanks!

Jim...

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 21:03:14 -0400
From: Gene Gatti <jerseydevil@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: '68 Cutlass grille needed

Sorry about that last post. I meant for it to go private. 
Gene

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 21:04:24 EDT
From: Zitoj@aol.com
Subject: Bad Olds day

Well after Sun at the cfruise in, I decided to wake my 442 from her 11 year 
nap.....so I went to visit her and see if I could get the engine to spin with 
a wrench on the balancer bolt.  I had already planned to let it soak for a 
day or 2 with ATF in the bores to make sure everything would be nice and 
oily.  Well I started pulling the plugs...easy ones first....that means the 
middle 2 on the drivers side.  Then I moved over to the passenger side (you 
know the one with the A/C compressor and evaporator) got 3 of 4 out with no 
trouble then I was wishing I had some of Santa Cleesese's magic dust so I 
could get small and fit in there for number 4.  So after about 10 minutes of 
fighting with the wire I decided to see if the crank nwould turn, you know 
make myself feel better and then go back to #8........well that's when life 
got bad, had the big 1/2" drive on there and gave it a big tug but it 
wouldn't budge  ...... I know I should have fogged her before the long nap 
but I was a relatively dumb kid back then and figured I'd have her back on 
the road sooner..........

Anyway being rather disguted at this point I went home and farted around for 
a while then  I went back and got #8 open and filled with ATF.  

Hopefully she'll turn in a day or two.

The saddest part is that this engine only has about 2,000 miles on a rebuild.

Question, if the motor frees up with the ATF, will it be OK or am I going to 
need to have her opened up and worked on??

Jim 
69 442 conv

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 21:17:20 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1985

Sorry dude, trany is toast.  Could be that it needs fluid and filter.  I had
one do this and it was a matter of time before the forward gears went out
too.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Olson <jolson@edzone.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 31, 1999 8:59 PM
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1985


> Please pass this on to the list...
>
> I have an '84 G body with a V6 and I assume 200 auto. I just bought it
> yesterday so I haven't had time to look yet. The tranny works
> wonderfully until I put it in reverse. There's NOTHING at all in
> reverse, but forward works perfectly in all three. What might be wrong?
>
> Please reply to me directly at jolson@edzone.net
>
> Thanks!
>
> Jim...
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 21:12:47 -0400
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1985

when fluid is low it seems to affect reverse first.  I have the same problem
with my V6 olds, but I pour in some fluid and it's alright.  It still takes
its time to actually engage reverse, but that's because there had been some
previous damage done by the guy who owned it before me.  If it's not a low
fluid problem, get a TH350.


Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 3.8 Calais
Bucks County, PA
mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo


> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Jim Olson
> Sent: Monday, May 31, 1999 8:59 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1985
>
>
> Please pass this on to the list...
>
> I have an '84 G body with a V6 and I assume 200 auto. I just bought it
> yesterday so I haven't had time to look yet. The tranny works
> wonderfully until I put it in reverse. There's NOTHING at all in
> reverse, but forward works perfectly in all three. What might be wrong?
>
> Please reply to me directly at jolson@edzone.net
>
> Thanks!
>
> Jim...
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 21:30:10 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Bad Olds day

It will smoke like hell,  but should be OK with tranny fluid in there.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Zitoj@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 31, 1999 9:04 PM
Subject: Bad Olds day


> Well after Sun at the cfruise in, I decided to wake my 442 from her 11
year
> nap.....so I went to visit her and see if I could get the engine to spin
with
> a wrench on the balancer bolt.  I had already planned to let it soak for a
> day or 2 with ATF in the bores to make sure everything would be nice and
> oily.  Well I started pulling the plugs...easy ones first....that means
the
> middle 2 on the drivers side.  Then I moved over to the passenger side
(you
> know the one with the A/C compressor and evaporator) got 3 of 4 out with
no
> trouble then I was wishing I had some of Santa Cleesese's magic dust so I
> could get small and fit in there for number 4.  So after about 10 minutes
of
> fighting with the wire I decided to see if the crank nwould turn, you know
> make myself feel better and then go back to #8........well that's when
life
> got bad, had the big 1/2" drive on there and gave it a big tug but it
> wouldn't budge  ...... I know I should have fogged her before the long nap
> but I was a relatively dumb kid back then and figured I'd have her back on
> the road sooner..........
>
> Anyway being rather disguted at this point I went home and farted around
for
> a while then  I went back and got #8 open and filled with ATF.
>
> Hopefully she'll turn in a day or two.
>
> The saddest part is that this engine only has about 2,000 miles on a
rebuild.
>
> Question, if the motor frees up with the ATF, will it be OK or am I going
to
> need to have her opened up and worked on??
>
> Jim
> 69 442 conv
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 21:24:47 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: Headers (Do or Don't them)

YES!!!!    Also put them on my 69 350 (stock) vista cruiser with a 390 12bolt 
posi and it made a big difference(dont forget to put bigger jets in the carb 
afterward)..Olds exhaust manifolds s_ck!!  Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 20:41:34 -0500
From: "Walker" <pwalker@megavision.com>
Subject: Re: Headers (Do or Don't them)

Hey Hot Rod Harry, blowing header gaskets and scraping your collectors on
every bump s*ck's alot worse.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Four42much@aol.com <Four42much@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, May 31, 1999 8:27 PM
Subject: Re: Headers (Do or Don't them)


>YES!!!!    Also put them on my 69 350 (stock) vista cruiser with a 390
12bolt
>posi and it made a big difference(dont forget to put bigger jets in the
carb
>afterward)..Olds exhaust manifolds s_ck!!  Hot Rod Harry
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 21:55:18 EDT
From: OLDS44272@aol.com
Subject: Re: DROPPING MOTORS/spinning motors

         Here's the story. I was 16. Had the 350 motor out my 72 Supreme on 
an engine stand. The engine was on the stand with the carb at the 12 o'clock 
postion. That it would be neat to rotate the motor over to put a new oil pan 
gasket on it while it was out of the car. So i removed the lock pin on the 
engine stand . I THOUGHT i could just hold on to the alternator as the motor 
rotated. WRONG. As the motor roated, it just about flipped me over!!!      I 
guess we learn at a young age that things don't always work out as 
planned..........SCOTT   

                        < recovering from 4 days of World of Outlaw sprint 
car racing in PA and MD>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 22:04:55 -0400
From: Kurt Shubert <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: Re: Are you interested in a 1966 f-85 2drht parts car

I'll forward this to the Olds list to see if anyone is interested.  Please 
reply
directly

Ponti6T389@aol.com wrote:

> My parents are really wanting me to get it out of the house so Iam asking
> 650obo because it has 71kmi Iam the 2nd owner so I have all of the original
> documintation on it the car was owned by an elderly couple who never smoked
> in the car (you can see fresh metal in the ashtray)  and kept it in the
> garage most of its life the glass is perfect along with the body on the car
> it is a bluish green color with matching colored interior the a/c worked
> perfectly on the car. It has an all stock 330 2bbl with jetaway trans. I cant
> find any 66 or 67 olds cutlass/f-85 around here so I dont have much use for
> the car.
> Joe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 22:10:47 EDT
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: very Confused.

In a message dated 99-05-31 12:08:39 EDT, you write:

<< So here is the question is she right or is there more colors that can be 
 special order(that the center doesn't know about) ?
 
 VIN   344870M406062
 
 Body Tag   ST 70   34487LAN511164   BDY
                  TR 937                     -   -    PNT
                       07B
  >>
There was a total of 4 colors that could come with  -  -     The colors are  
51 Sebring Yellow, 73 Rally Red, 53 Nugget Golds and the last color is 38 
Aegean Aqua,   all four colors were special order colors for 70 cars.  

W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 22:12:26 EDT
From: OLDS44272@aol.com
Subject: Re: WHEELS FALLING OFF 

                   I had a 1976 Buick Special.  I was making a left hand turn 
out of a parking lot. The stop light about 100 feet from my right had just 
turned green. I attempted to beat the traffic,so i just hammered the gas. 
During the turn, i hear 2 crunching sounds. The right front rim broke. As a 
result, the right front of the car dropped down. As i ran over the tire, it 
pushed the fender into the hood and the back of the fender into the door, 
making both pieces of sheet metal not useable. Now with the tire free from 
the car, the right front slid on the ground and cuased me to spin clockwise. 
Now i am facing the traffic i just darted in front of.    Luckily i didn't 
get hit by anyone. All 5 lug nuts and a 6 inch disk of rim was still bolted 
to the car's rotor. I very quickly installed my spare tire and was able to 
drive the car. As best as i remember, the only damage, beside the sheet 
metal, was the grease fitting for the lower ball jiont was kinda 
missing.........SCOTT

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 22:12:27 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: Headers (Do or Don't them)

I have never had those problems.....and if I did , the increase in 
performance would be well worth it......I have had alot of cars with both 
exhaust manifolds and with headers and believe what I say ...you cant beat 
headers compared to stock manifolds.....(p.s.  now I am on number 50 for 
musclecars I have owned)  except its a , dare I say  69 cheby chebelle SS 396 
with the 375 horse motor...32k original miles...and it runs like Sh_t!!  
because it doesnt have headers!!!!(and yes I know...its a cheby)  Hot Rod 
Harry  LOL

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 21:22:35 -0500
From: "Walker" <pwalker@megavision.com>
Subject: Re: Are you interested in a 1966 f-85 2drht parts car

Where is the car located?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Kurt Shubert <wmachine@en.com>
To: Ponti6T389@aol.com <Ponti6T389@aol.com>
Cc: Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, May 31, 1999 9:06 PM
Subject: Re: Are you interested in a 1966 f-85 2drht parts car


>I'll forward this to the Olds list to see if anyone is interested.  Please
reply
>directly
>
>Ponti6T389@aol.com wrote:
>
>> My parents are really wanting me to get it out of the house so Iam asking
>> 650obo because it has 71kmi Iam the 2nd owner so I have all of the
original
>> documintation on it the car was owned by an elderly couple who never
smoked
>> in the car (you can see fresh metal in the ashtray)  and kept it in the
>> garage most of its life the glass is perfect along with the body on the
car
>> it is a bluish green color with matching colored interior the a/c worked
>> perfectly on the car. It has an all stock 330 2bbl with jetaway trans. I
cant
>> find any 66 or 67 olds cutlass/f-85 around here so I dont have much use
for
>> the car.
>> Joe
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 22:31:45 -0400
From: "John Richmond" <john.richmond@home.com>
Subject: Fake W30 Opinions

Just wanted your opinions on fake W-30 cars.
I have been looking at a local car the last few days. It originally was a
Cutlass Supreme convertible with a 350 4bbl which has been transformed into
a 442 W30.
The car is in beautiful condition with OAI & correct air intake, 455, W455
intake manifold, rear sway bar, Dual gate shifter, cut out rear bumper with
chrome exhaust tips and W30 strips with W30 emblems. He says the engine was
just rebuilt about 3000 miles ago. He was asking $9900 he said he would take
$9500.
This guy says he bought it from the guy who did the conversion a few years
ago and he really hasn't done anything to it since. Makes me owner if any
maintenance has been done at all.
I am trying to decide weather I should buy it. I guess I am at a quandary, I
have always looked down at fakes in the past and if I were to buy it what
would I say I have? It really wasn't a 442 to begin with and it wants us to
think its not just a 442 but a W30. Would I say I have a Cutlass Supreme
conv. with lots of installed options or say that I own a W30.
Please write back with any opinions that can help me in my decision.

John Richmond
john.richmond@home.com  or  jwr10@daimlerchrysler.com
http://members.home.net/john.richmond/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 22:33:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: vfquick442@webtv.net (markas)
Subject: Re: Headers (Do or Don't them)

What`s the matter Harry,You and your family run out of rare Oldsmobiles
to buy? LOL

                                                 Markas

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 22:45:37 -0400
From: "John Richmond" <john.richmond@home.com>
Subject: Re: Fake W30 Opinions (2)

Forgot to mention that it is a 1972 car.

John Richmond
john.richmond@home.com  or  jwr10@daimlerchrysler.com
http://members.home.net/john.richmond/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 22:58:24 -0400
From: "K. Grant" <kgrant442@home.com>
Subject: MIA

I would just like to say that I am now back. Do to circumstances beyond my
control my email and webpage have been down, and I have just been put back
online. I am hopping to have my web page up in the next day or two sorry for
any problems this created for the list.

Kevin Grant

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 23:05:00 EDT
From: Socalolds@aol.com
Subject: Selling 68 H/O in Ventura, Ca. 

Have a freind in Ventura, California who need to sell his 68 H/O. He's asking 
$5,000. The car has 91K and he is the original owner. I've seen it and need 
work the rt rear sail panel is very rusted and it needs a complete resto.  
Everythings there and it runs with some coaxing. Been stored indoors for 
years on a large estate. If interested I can forward a number. Email or call 
me privately.
Dennis
559-322-8441

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 23:13:22 EDT
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: Street rocket web pages input

In a message dated 99-05-30 12:58:15 EDT, you write:

<< Well you asked for it ;)
 	1) add and alt="click here to see more cars"  This will make text
 appear when the cursor is moved over the image.
 
 	2) add a OnMouseOver event and swap the image for a different one so
 people realize that something is happening.  I use 2 images, the default
 has white text while the OnMouseOver one has yellow text.
 
 	3) Buttonize the image.  One thing that Microsloth screwed up was that
 things to be clicked used to look like buttons.  If you want the
 "Explorer" look than use #2 and #3 and make the image turn into a button
 when the mouse is over it.  Personally I like clicking things to look
 like buttons.
 
 Personally, I would split the members cars off of this page and add
 links to both page 1 and two onto this page.  Right now it takes _way_
 too long to load this page and I found it confusing.  You may even want
 to break it up into more than 2 pages and have fewer images per page. 
 You _might_ even want to go to 1 page per member and have and
 alphabetical list that lets you click on their name/car model+year to
 see it.  Each members page would have links to the previous, next,
 index, home.
 
 Also, as a side note, have you considered making you logo into a gif
 with a transparent background?  I think it would look cool. 
 
 I'm sorry if I sound preachy/condesending/jerky but you did ask for
 comments :0.  If you would like any assistance with any of this then
 just let me know and I'll do what I can.
 
 Have a good weekend, >>
Ok, as a novice web page builder,do I put alt="   if you click your right 
mouse and bring up view source, you might be able to help me more.    What 
did you find confusing about the 1st page???n  Not sure on the transparent 
background, I embroided the street rocket logo.  I never did any 
transparencys with it. 

thanks mark

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 23:15:11 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: Headers (Do or Don't them)

In a message dated 5/31/99 10:34:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
vfquick442@webtv.net writes:

<< What`s the matter Harry,You and your family run out of rare Oldsmobiles
 to buy? LOL
  >>
LOL , very funny.....the search is still on for more Oldses...I love all 
musclecars , but Olds will always be my favorite....guess what...I also own a 
late 80s mustang 5.0 that was a SCCA road racing monster for all of its life 
and now its back on the street terrorizing new corvettes .....I must be very 
ill...too many non Oldsmobiles....I have headers for a big block ...brand new 
in the box for the A bodies ....my dads 66 starfire 4speed is in a space in 
my garage , so that keeps me in Olds land....Hot Rod Harry 
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/">HOT ROD HARRY'S MUSCLECARS</A>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 23:15:55 -0400
From: "K. Grant" <kgrant442@home.com>
Subject: 200r4

I went out on Sunday and picked up a 200R4 Trans I have dropped it off at
the Trans shop today and will be dropping the car off on Thursday. So after
many emails I have made the plunge and went and picked up a 200R4. The unit
is out of an 87 442 I am planning on going with a 2600 stall with shift kit
I am hoping to get the car back Thursday of next week. I will let you know
how the project progresses.

Kevin Grant
80 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 23:29:28 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: 200r4

In a message dated 5/31/99 8:17:31 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
kgrant442@home.com writes:

<< I went out on Sunday and picked up a 200R4 Trans I have dropped it off at
 the Trans shop today and will be dropping the car off on Thursday. So after
 many emails I have made the plunge and went and picked up a 200R4. The unit
 is out of an 87 442 I am planning on going with a 2600 stall with shift kit
 I am hoping to get the car back Thursday of next week. I will let you know
 how the project progresses.
 
 Kevin Grant >>

	Sounds great Kevin! I know I would be interested to hear a breakdown 
on the price of the parts, if they will give it to you. I think I'll be 
heading in the 200-4R direction myself, and as soon as I can pick one up for 
the right price, I will. (hopefully a GN/442 one, or at least the internals 
out of one of those, even the SS's)  Always nice to know what the cost is 
going to be before I jump into it! Thanks, Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 22:41:56 -0500
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1985

could be the rear planetary gearset ring gear broken had that happen to my
work truck once...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Olson <jolson@edzone.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 31, 1999 7:59 PM
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1985


> Please pass this on to the list...
>
> I have an '84 G body with a V6 and I assume 200 auto. I just bought it
> yesterday so I haven't had time to look yet. The tranny works
> wonderfully until I put it in reverse. There's NOTHING at all in
> reverse, but forward works perfectly in all three. What might be wrong?
>
> Please reply to me directly at jolson@edzone.net
>
> Thanks!
>
> Jim...
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 23:00:46 -0500
From: "James L. Brownfield" <olzracer@peaknet.net>
Subject: Headers (Do or Dont)

Igor,

I cant tell you that headers will help your car, but I can tell you what
helped my car.
I had headers and a short exhaust system, walker turbos that dumped just
behind them.

I always raced this car with the exhaust on, till one day I dropped
exhaust and went from running 13.30s to 12.60s.

I never thought that my car had enough restriction in the exhaust system
to cause THAT much of a power loss.

There's a Delta that runs once in a while at my track that runs 13.70s
in street trim, 4 door at that.

There's my two cents.

Jim

78 Cutlass Drag car
68 Hurst/Olds

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 23:08:25 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: DROPPING MOTORS/spinning motors

> So i removed the lock pin on the
>engine stand . I THOUGHT i could just hold on to the alternator as the
motor
>rotated. WRONG.

Didn't happen to me but a guy in my shop dropped a BBC straight off the
front of the stand as he was rotating the engine.  Luckily, it missed his
foot!

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 22:09:40 -0600
From: "Travis Adams" <olds442@mcn.net>
Subject: Re: W-27  Rear Cover

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_00B5_01BEABB2.479DB9C0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Year One has them.
    -----Original Message-----
    From: Walker <pwalker@megavision.com>
    To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
    Date: Monday, May 31, 1999 5:49 PM
    Subject: W-27 Rear Cover
   =20
   =20
    Does any body know where I can get a w-27 cover for my ten bolt. It =
is out of a 66 Vista Cruiser.
    =20
    John
    =20


- ------=_NextPart_000_00B5_01BEABB2.479DB9C0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Year One has them.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>Walker &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:pwalker@megavision.com">pwalker@megavision.com</A>&gt;<BR>=
<B>To:=20
    </B><A =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>=20
    &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>&g=
t;<BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>Monday, May 31, 1999 5:49 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>W-27 Rear=20
    Cover<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Does any body know where I can =
get a w-27=20
    cover for my ten bolt. It is out of a 66 Vista Cruiser.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>John</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
    <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_00B5_01BEABB2.479DB9C0--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 23:14:13 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: New Olds nut?

>Recently found out that there's another one of us on the way. Angela is
about 8
>weeks along, 9 maybe, and should pop out another one right after Christmas
>12/99. Two boys already, this time a girl for sure.
>
>Olds content: I get to choose name this time, she'll be called Reo.


Congratulations Chris,
Reo sounds like it would be a lot easier to talk the wife into than what
I tried to get my wife to name our kid if it's a boy.  Ram Rod just didn't
go over too well.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 00:23:52 -0400
From: Jeff Mullenix <muxx@exis.net>
Subject: Re: W-27  Rear Cover

You can also contact Jim at C&M Classic parts.  He may be able to beat Year
Ones prices.  His E-mail adress is (chermac@exis.net)




At 10:09 PM 5/31/1999 -0600, you wrote:
>    Year One has them.      -----Original Message-----
>From:      <pwalker@megavision.com>
>To:      oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca<oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Date:      Monday, May 31, 1999 5:49 PM
>Subject: W-27 Rear      Cover
>
>     Does any body know where I can get a w-27      cover for my ten bolt.
>It is out of a 66 Vista Cruiser.           John            
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 21:35:24 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: WHEELS FALLING OFF 

Got two stories here:

1) Driving my 66 98 conv to Big Bear in CA -- Mountains outside L.A... Left
ball joint broke loose from the A-Arm. Basically the A-Arm socket gave way
from fatigue. On repair I had the shop weld about .5" inch rebar around the
whole area for strength.  Some things to think about for your car: 1) does
it have 200K + miles? 2) do you drive it on windy roads frequently? 3) Ever
had the front end completely disassembled & checked? 

My solution: disassemble the front and rear suspension pieces have all load
bearing arms magnafluxed and checked for fatigue cracks before reassembly
with new bushings. Lots of us do the bushings, but not lots of us go the
extra mile looking for cracks. Do it. Yes it costs, but what are your
passenger's lives and trust worth? 

2) Driving to work my right A-arm wore loose and gave way at 25 mph. (love
these cars -- it didn't go @60mph). Metal fatigue again. Car dropped to the
pavement and bent the right fender a bit. Shook me up plenty. Gives you a
lot of respect for these machines when a critical failure like that occurs. 

My conclusion is that the suspension pieces of the 66 88's and 98's were
designed for a good 200K mile lifespan. Beyond that you're past warranty. Be
safe people. 

In conclusion, next time your A-arms are off, get 'em magnaflux checked for
cracks. And go get them new rear trailing arms from Hotchkiss. 

Nothing quite like peace of mind @70+mph, which these cars are well capable
of doing.... 

Stuff you might now know: 
Again my message on the boxed arms. The 64-67 Hotchkiss Cutlass rear
trailing arms fit both the 65-70 88, Starfire & 98 cars and the Cutlasses.
Also you can buy two Energy Suspension kits and get to a polygraphite
suspension bushing solution for about $130.00 for your fullsize 65-70 Olds.
To me, at least, this is great news....

cheers,
cf

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 23:36:28 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: 200r4

What are you putting this behind?

At 11:15 PM 5/31/99 -0400, you wrote:
>I went out on Sunday and picked up a 200R4 Trans I have dropped it off at
>the Trans shop today and will be dropping the car off on Thursday. So after
>many emails I have made the plunge and went and picked up a 200R4. The unit
>is out of an 87 442 I am planning on going with a 2600 stall with shift kit
>I am hoping to get the car back Thursday of next week. I will let you know
>how the project progresses.
>
>Kevin Grant
>80 Cutlass Supreme
> 
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -------------
Brian Ammons	ICQ - 3585737
5606 Grape		b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
Houston, TX 77096	http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
			Home:	713-776-2110
1984 Oldsmobile	Pager:	713-318-5938
	Delta 88 RB
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- --------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 23:38:44 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: No More Performer?  WAS: Wanted 455 Alum Intake

At 03:10 PM 5/31/99 -0700, you wrote:
>NICK,
>I just purchased the last known edelbock performer aluminum intake. But i do
>know the DICK MILLER of DICK MILLER RACING  has one or two. 

What is the story on this?  Edelbrock is no longer manufacturing Performers?

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -------------
Brian Ammons	ICQ - 3585737
5606 Grape		b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
Houston, TX 77096	http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
			Home:	713-776-2110
1984 Oldsmobile	Pager:	713-318-5938
	Delta 88 RB
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- --------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 21:47:40 -0700
From: tarzan@foxinternet.net
Subject: Re: Wanted 455 Alum Intake

They will still be making it but they will not be making any more until late
july/early august.

Brian Ammons wrote:

> At 03:10 PM 5/31/99 -0700, you wrote:
> >NICK,
> >I just purchased the last known edelbock performer aluminum intake.
>
> WHAT?  Since when did Edelbrock stop making this?
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -------------
> Brian Ammons    ICQ - 3585737
> 5606 Grape              b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
> Houston, TX 77096       http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
>                         Home:   713-776-2110
> 1984 Oldsmobile Pager:  713-318-5938
>         Delta 88 RB
>                 4-door
> "The Party Barge"
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> --------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 01:05:34 EDT
From: Olds442nut@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fake W30 Opinions (2)

You would say that you had a clone, besides real olds lovers would be able to 
tell.
If it was really a W30 it would have the x in the vin, only for 72 though.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 01:21:09 -0400
From: "K. Grant" <kgrant442@home.com>
Subject: Re: 200r4

I have a 84 307 Y code engine with cam headers RPM intake and a 3.73 w/ posi
I am planning on adding a 350 in the spring of 2000 looking to get about
375 - 400 hp  Right now it runs faster than a H/O 442 or SS (stock)

Kevin Grant
80 Cutlass Supreme

- -----Original Message-----
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: June 1, 1999 12:57 AM
Subject: Re: 200r4


>What are you putting this behind?
>
>At 11:15 PM 5/31/99 -0400, you wrote:
>>I went out on Sunday and picked up a 200R4 Trans I have dropped it off at
>>the Trans shop today and will be dropping the car off on Thursday. So
after
>>many emails I have made the plunge and went and picked up a 200R4. The
unit
>>is out of an 87 442 I am planning on going with a 2600 stall with shift
kit
>>I am hoping to get the car back Thursday of next week. I will let you know
>>how the project progresses.
>>
>>Kevin Grant
>>80 Cutlass Supreme
>>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 01:31:02 -0400
From: "K. Grant" <kgrant442@home.com>
Subject: Re: 200r4

I picked up the trans for 250 Can I was told that it would cost me between
1500-2000Can to do the switch
That would include tranie cooler puting in a new crossmember (need to notch
it for full dual exhaust) as well as putting in the Lighting Rod Shifter. I
talked to about 10 Trans shops and this shop was not the cheap price but not
the most expensive ether. The guy that owns the shop is into Olds and his
brother has 4 H/O's and that's the guy that I picked the trans off of. Well
I will let you know how this works out.

Kevin Grant
80 Cutlass Supreme

>
> Sounds great Kevin! I know I would be interested to hear a breakdown
>on the price of the parts, if they will give it to you. I think I'll be
>heading in the 200-4R direction myself, and as soon as I can pick one up
for
>the right price, I will. (hopefully a GN/442 one, or at least the internals
>out of one of those, even the SS's)  Always nice to know what the cost is
>going to be before I jump into it! Thanks, Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 01:40:53 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: KEVIN!!/ 200r4

In a message dated 5/31/99 10:32:42 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
kgrant442@home.com writes:

<< I picked up the trans for 250 Can I was told that it would cost me between
 1500-2000Can to do the switch
 That would include tranie cooler puting in a new crossmember (need to notch
 it for full dual exhaust) as well as putting in the Lighting Rod Shifter. I
 talked to about 10 Trans shops and this shop was not the cheap price but not
 the most expensive ether. The guy that owns the shop is into Olds and his
 brother has 4 H/O's and that's the guy that I picked the trans off of. Well
 I will let you know how this works out.
 
 Kevin Grant
 80 Cutlass Supreme >>

	I believe I have the address or phone number of a company or person 
that sells the notched dual exhaust crossmembers for the g-bodies for $100!! 
(US I would think) If your interested, give me a holler, and I can dig it up 
real quick for you. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: 31 May 99 23:37:29 PDT
From: Randy Hermsen <76cutlass@netscape.net>
Subject: flexfans shrouds&towtrucks+$

So much talk of flex fans,got to throw in my .02  When I bought the 72 conv.
the tow guy didnt look up front, da....he say gota put it on the dolly.....b
ll went up frt. looked at the cement parkstop wedged under her.Tell him to
lower it go ..go forward then up .and home.Well you know I got her fired up
for a couple of weeks now and she runs and looks like a dream but the fan was
hittin the shroud upon first fire up I pushed it down after but only
remembered the other day while screwin with the broken horn the only other
prob. for now.I notice the cars dissapearing really fast guys all over makin a
buck crushin them(not knocking the bis.)we are all here to help preserve what
we like.olds.Some have money to spend some need time and good deals to come
by.I know Ive been blessed recently.I wanted t- roofs chickened out cuttin her
(t-roofs in dungeon) up.Then the higher power gave me a conv.Which brings me
to the point of the ramblings,I wont pay 200.00 for a radio ( at swap meet )
Im ready to order one from Chris the rocket scientist.But the wife says Ill
find the radio boneyardin she always right.72 Cutlass Supreme conv. am. fm.
radio price?
                         Randy is tired now lolol 
                               72 c.s.
                                76 c.s.   yawn  zzzzzz....
                              


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Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 00:42:42 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Trailer Towing with my Delta

> Me and my dad have been looking at some new trailers today.  We would like
> to get something in the 23 to 24" range 

I'm hoping that's supposed to be a ' instead of a "...  Be a pretty small
trailer :)

> could tow with that car.  It has a bottom end 455, th400 and 3.23 posi

My Rockit towed with the 425, TH350, and 3.23s.  It did quite well.  I never
loaded it down ~hard~ yet, but it towed shells perfectly.  With a stout engine,
I'd be more apt to push the envelope a bit more :)  

>> Would definitely suggest you cut no corners as far as trailer hitch.
>> There is no substitute for doing a "proper job" of it.

I second that.  Strongly.  For a larger trailer, you may seek having the frame
strengthened between the axle and trailer mount, just to be safe.  Don't cut
corners.  A receiver hitch is mandatory, and the equalizer head attachment is
almost a must, as well.  (I'd never tow without it)  Trailer brake controllers
vary alot, ask for opinions when you get your hitch, I suppose.  

FWIW, I strongly feel that my Rockit easily outpulled my parents' C1500...  But
then that's a simple matter of torque, I guess.  

Another thing to consider is the height issue.  A full-sized camper trailer is
going to be fairly tall, and will have more of a tendancy to "drag" a lighter
car around in the wind.  At least I'd suspect, at least.

- -- 
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://drive.to/Oldsmagnet    See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 00:48:16 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)

> How about getting some Asian sex slaves to fan your engine with large
> leaves?

SOUNDS good.  

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 06:55:36 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: re:Dot5

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Dal Allan" <endlcom@ibm.net>
Subject:   re:Dot5

Hi Brian,

I echo the positive comments you have heard on Dot 5. 

 - The 1976 Avanti came from the factory with Dot 5 and there 
   has never been a brake problem in over 20 years. The car was 
   a daily driver and then dropped off the daily routine because 
   of a re-paint. Since then it has seen only occasional use and 
   with any other brake fluid I'd have had to replace brake 
   cylinders at least once if not twice. 

 - The 1967 Cutlass was converted to disc brakes so took 
   advantage of that to do a complete brake job and adopt Dot 
   5. This is a near show-quality car and gets low usage. 

 - The 1972 GS455 is about ready for brakes and will be 
   converted to Dot 5 when that gets done. 

Since you've got an all-new system, it is a simple choice to make 
because there are few times when it is easy to adopt Dot 5.

Most people who complain about Dot 5 tried to get away with a 
partial conversion. You must use new brake cylinders and 
calipers, and I've got my doubts about reusing the master 
cylinder. You can retain the brake lines by using alcohol to 
flush them several times and running compressed air to dry them 
out afterwards (did that on the Olds). 

You will hear stories about soft pedals with Dot 5. Not true, 
that is a function of pouring in Dot 5 like it was Dot 3. Bubbles 
are hard to evacuate in Dot 5 so you want to create as few as 
possible and that means slow and gentle care. 

Dot 5 is more viscous, so can escape through anything but a 
perfectly sealed system. Be sure to check the master cylinder 
fluid level until you are confident there are no leaks. 

Availability is poor at many parts stores, and they will try to 
con you into Dot 3+ or Dot 4. Dot 5.1 is not silicon, be careful 
about having someone push this at you because it is the latest 
and greatest (it is for heavy duty Mack truck applications). 

NAPA carries Dot 5, and you can always special order. It is a 
good idea to carry a bottle in the trunk when out driving for the 
first few times after conversion (you don't want to get stranded 
because of a leak). 

Brake fluid is nasty stuff. The effect of absorbing moisture on 
your brake cylinders and your brake lines is insidious and 
dangerous plus all it takes is one careless moment for your great 
paint job to become history. 

Dot 5 is more expensive than Dot 3 but you will never have to do 
another brake job or incur a loss of braking due to internal 
rusting of cylinders or calipers. With the investment you've made 
in your brakes so far, you won't even notice the extra dollars 
for the best stuff to put inside the lines. 

Dal

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 06:57:33 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Chicago meet

Not sure wht this is bouncing; forwarding.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Joe Centanni" <jacentan@mail.icongrp.com>
Subject: Chicago meet

Anyone here wishing to meet other Olds enthusiasts should let me know.
Members of the olds G list are meeting this Sat. at Blue Top in Highland ,
IN off of Rt. 41.  e are looking for olds enthusiasts old and new to join
us.
Later
Jeremy 87 442
PS no one has responded,  dont believe it!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 04:37:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Headers, Yet another Question (from a different guy)

  Ok, I have to ask a question about headers now.  How much louder are
they as compared to stock manifolds, or is that just a myth?  I want to
get a set for my '70 cutlass 'S' 350.  Also, what's better to do first,
upgrade my stock 2bbl setup (intake and carb) for a 4bbl setup or do
the exhaust thing?

  TIA,
    Stefan
    1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
    70Cutlass@Beer.com


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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 05:20:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Custom Kick Panels w/ built in speakers?

  Anybody know if there is a place that makes custom kick panels with
built in speakers for a 70 Cutlass?  A buddy of mine got a set for a 57
Chebby and, since then, I REALLY want a set.  The problem is that I
can't find them anywhere.  Do these exist?

Stefan 
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
70Cutlass@Beer.com
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Date: Tue, 1 Jun 1999 05:24:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fender patch panels

  I can't help you with the patch panels, but as far as removing the
hood and fenders, that can be easily accomplished if you have a friend
to help you out with the hood.

 - Stefan
   1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
   70Cutlass@Beer.com

- --- tj <tj1852@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> Hi all
> 
> I have found someone I trust to work on my '71 culass "s," and am
> going
> to have some rust repair done on the area behind the rear wheels
> before
> I have paint applied.  I know that there are quarter panel "skins"
> available for these cars from vendors such as year 1, but does anyone
> know if there is a patch panel, such as those used on the front
> fenders,
> available for the rear of this car?  I think that the body shop can
> repair this damage without them, but I wanted to give the guy the
> option
> of using them if he wants to AND if they are available.  I am
> particularly concerned with him getting the contour right so that the
> wheel opening molding will fit as it should.
> 
> Also, how hard is it to remove the front fenders and hood myself?  I
> am
> toying with the idea of removing them before I deliver the car to the
> shop, and then reinstalling them afterwards myself.  I have already
> removed bumpers, grilles, trim, interior, front and rear windows etc.
> and am pretty much left with a shell with a dashboard in it.
> 
> Any advice? 
> 
> Thanks for your help,
> 
> Tim
> 

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------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1989
*********************************

