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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1969


oldsmobile-digest       Thursday, May 20 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1969



Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!
Re: 455 carb choice (no 800 cfm Q-jet)
Plate Stickers
Re: Plate Stickers
Re: Going to the Track first time, pointers needed
Re: 455 carb choice (no 800 cfm Q-jet)
Re: Plate Stickers
Re: Plate Stickers
Re: Plate Stickers and a new question
Re: aluminum vs Fe
Re: Apology for Non-Olds==>Microsoft (ENOUGH)
more Q-jet babble
Rocker Arm shims - Repeat
Re: differences in carbs
Re: Ball Joint Time?  Opinions, pls
Re: Freon was Wasps! 
Re: Boring Question!
Re: Plate Stickers
Re: Non-Olds-New computer/thanks IBM
Re: Ball Joint Time?  Opinions, pls
Re: Re:-Microsoft?? This is a scam!
Re: 67 Cutlass vs. 97 Mustang
Re: 600 miles and holding
Re: 600 miles and holding
Re: more Q-jet babble
O.C. Cruise In
Re: Header insulation wrap
Re: ICQ
Re: 49-55 olds V8 engine
Re: Ball Joint Time?  Opinions, pls
Re: differences in carbs
Re: Power Tour
Re: Boring Question!
Re: more Q-jet babble
Re: O.C. Cruise In
Re: Plate Stickers
Re: Plate Stickers
RE: Plate Stickers
How to unsubscribe!
ADMIN: Clueless, The Movie
Re: To wax or not to wax?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 13:05:32 -0500 (CDT)
From: blue442@webtv.net (Jeff Carter)
Subject: Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!

All this synthetic talk is finally getting to me.  On the 442 it's a
given.  A yearly change would fall well within the change per 1,000
miles I follow.  Now the *other* car gets changed at 2500 miles.  Since
it's new (overbudget) heart is coming soon, can I use Mobil 1 and
prolong oil change intervals?  If so by how much?

Jeff Carter
68 Olds 442
82 Gran Gury cop car

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 14:08:27 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 carb choice (no 800 cfm Q-jet)

In a message dated 99-05-19 20:47:27 EDT, you write:

<<  Third:
 Went to Holley 1850, 600 cfm I had lying around.  68 jets and tried all the
 secondary springs, then tried other (can't remember), bigger jets.
 Under this set-up, the car ran the best (in terms of starts, smooth running,
 etc.) but also ran the slowest.  It just did not have the secondary pull of
 the Q-jet.  >>

First, would like to say that most 800cfm Qjets were on 1976 and later motors 
(think tiny intake runners were a contributing factor...), but also think 
that these late carbs may not necessarily be adaptable to pre-1973 and other 
non-EGR Oldsmobiles.

Having much Qjet info from various years to 1980 and sometimes later, it 
seems that Rochester/ACDelco used rod/jet/power piston spring combos that may 
or may not be achievable depending on what is now available as aftermarket 
power piston spring.

Edelbrock has some power piston springs available, but their listing cannot 
compare with the sheer range of OEM springs. Anyone know if GM still has 
various springs available.

What is the URL for partsvoice?

And Igor?
Sorry to Chime in late, but to upjet Holley successfully, you may have to 
change discharge nozzles as well as jets.
More leeway in nozzles, but possible you reached the limit in yours.

Still sorry, but thought I'd mention. And am still gonna pitch all these 
Holleys if no one wants (mostly 600 cfm, including a double pumper).

SOM

&KA  <---  believes cement more interesting than other people think

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 13:16:54 -0500
From: "Johnson, Samuel" <SJohnso6@allstate.com>
Subject: Plate Stickers

Well it seems that the plate sticker the state of IL will be $78. The price
use to be 48.  I was wondering if anybody out there pays more or less for
there state plate sticker.


Sam Johnson
71Cutlass455
95 Thunderbird

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 11:22:52 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Plate Stickers

The small tab that indicates when it expires? 78
bucks? Ouch! Here in ND I think they are something
like 20 or 25 bucks. I don't remember right off hand,
but the Olds will be due soon.

Del

- --- "Johnson, Samuel" <SJohnso6@allstate.com> wrote:
> Well it seems that the plate sticker the state of IL
> will be $78. The price
> use to be 48.  I was wondering if anybody out there
> pays more or less for
> there state plate sticker.
> 
> 
> Sam Johnson
> 71Cutlass455
> 95 Thunderbird
> 

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 13:20:51 -0500 (CDT)
From: blue442@webtv.net (Jeff Carter)
Subject: Re: Going to the Track first time, pointers needed

Hey Igor,
Just focus on staying relaxed.  Avoid the burnout puddle as the water
will stay in your treads.  Don't do a burnout with street tires, but you
may want to stand on it enough before staging to clean the tires.  Try
to position the front tires at the same depth into the staging beams.
Staging shallow and leaving as the second yellow goes out works best for
me.  Shifting manually will not give you the best consistency, but it
allows you to try out different shift points.  Hosing off the radiator
to cool it down may make more power, but also allows water to drain on
the strip at the light.  Have fun and kick some @$$!

Jeff Carter
68 Olds 442
82 Gran Gury cop car

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 13:32:22 -0500
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas.Martin@motorola.com>
Subject: Re: 455 carb choice (no 800 cfm Q-jet)

I cannot tell you the best combo, but the 800 CFM Q-Jet is easily found on
the Cadillac 500, at least for sure in 1976.  Tweak jetting as needed,
should be close.  

Concentrate the power to where you are driving, if you only drive idle to
2500 rpm, then concentrate power (torque) to be there, a 750 CFM Q-Jet is
fine.  I am partial to the Q-Jet, as for running a 307 Q-Jet, it is computer
controlled, you cannot change the jets or modify it for non ecm operation.
76 Q-Jet is a good choice because the Olds carbs in 76 had some mild
altitude compensation, and that is helpful.  Any Q-Jet can be modified to
run well.  

If Olds is like Pontiac at all, then stock intakes work very well, in the
Poncho's case, for down to 12's in the 1/4mi, run the stock non-EGR intake
for best performance.  

Let us know how it turns out!

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 14:40:05 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Plate Stickers

Here in North Carolina the price varies with the year of the car.  I think I
paid 35 or 40 for a '95 lumina and an 85 F*rd F-150. That is 35 to 40 for
both vehicles not each of them.  However it can cost you 200bucks to get new
plates!  Thats alot o cash for a small piece of tin.

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Johnson, Samuel <SJohnso6@allstate.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 2:16 PM
Subject: Plate Stickers


> Well it seems that the plate sticker the state of IL will be $78. The
price
> use to be 48.  I was wondering if anybody out there pays more or less for
> there state plate sticker.
>
>
> Sam Johnson
> 71Cutlass455
> 95 Thunderbird
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 14:39:22 -0400
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Re: Plate Stickers

> Well it seems that the plate sticker the state of IL will be $78. The price
> use to be 48.  I was wondering if anybody out there pays more or less for
> there state plate sticker.

> Sam Johnson

Here in the increasingly inaccurately named Commonwealth of "Taxachusetts",
it's $40.  You no longer have to get an insuance stamp each time you renew
anymore either, so you can mail it in w/o waiting in line at the RMV.
*Plus* doing by mail saves you $5 -- I just renewed the registration
this month on one of the fleet for $35...

However, on the downside, it looks like yearly state inspections will be going
up, from the current $15 to at least $25 or so, to help service station owners
defray the cost of the newer, more sophisticated equipment (read: expensive)
for stricter emissions testing.  And it's the state that's trying to keep it
*down* to $25; whoever is lobbying for the service stations wants $35-$40 :P



Tim Churchill  tchurchill@draper.com  OCA #30327  Framingham, MA
- ----------------------------------------------------------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, new a.k.a 'Old Gold'
'98 VW Passat GLS Wagon, a.k.a. 'der Kinderwagen'

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 11:42:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Plate Stickers and a new question

Plates here in ND are about 100 bucks. Speaking of
plates, anyone know how I could find out what the law
is in ND for front license plates? I want to know if I
need one or not. I talked to the Fargo police and they
said yes. I talked to the Sheriff and they said no. I
talk to friends and they say it depends on what year
the car is! *scratching head* I wanna know! 

- --- steve harris <meso@pamlico.net> wrote:
> Here in North Carolina the price varies with the
> year of the car.  I think I
> paid 35 or 40 for a '95 lumina and an 85 F*rd F-150.
> That is 35 to 40 for
> both vehicles not each of them.  However it can cost
> you 200bucks to get new
> plates!  Thats alot o cash for a small piece of tin.


===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 14:42:01 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: aluminum vs Fe

Mr Meso:

<< The motor of my dream is streetable,  runs on pump gas,  and can be driven 
daily.  Will 10:1 slugs be able to live up to this or should I go to a lower 
compression?  I am planing a roller rocker set up.  Give me some ideas for 
cam specs.  Drive train to date is a 3.73 10 bolt posi rear,  and 400 trany.  
Wheels are 14 inch rims with 235's?  I think.  I havent looked at them in 
awhile.  OK thats it for now, thanks.  I am getting carried away again. >>

Any luck with the Q3test info Karl sent you?

If you are running 10:1 or more you will find that premium gasoline gets 
better mileage, as most hi comp engines (Aurora is an exception) were built 
in the days of 96 octane pump gas. At least, that is Karl's experience.

Roller rockers: OK. Why?

To Karl's mind there is more reason for fast bleeed lifters or 
chrome-molybdenum pushrods than roller rockers. There could be slightly less 
wear on rockers, but as oil is pushed from hydraulic lifters through pushrods 
to rockers, not much saving in friction.

Um. Karl (BIG car) uses 15" 235's on non-stock 15" rims [3" taller than 
14"rims with 205s (IS 235 possible on 14" rims?) with 2.93 open diff with 
10.25:1 factory compression and does very well (untill current muffler...).

Karl would suggest 15" (fairly cheap at local yardes or parts places).
And if you do build your Olds motor any, you will prolly go to 3.23:1 ias a 
streetable gear instead.

As for cam, Joe Mondello (and prolly Dave Smith, Karl not got his catalog) 
has cam grinds in many shapes and sizes, as long as you can afford.

Good Luck!

KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 14:38:33 -0400
From: Uncle Pete <pteubel@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Apology for Non-Olds==>Microsoft (ENOUGH)

At 10:12 AM 5/20/99 -0700, you wrote:
>I must apologize for offending so many on the list, I don't take these
>(chain)emails seriously although I do participate by forwarding them only 
>becuase
>I know that they can travel around the world and they cause no physical harm 

And by participating you are keeping the problem of SPAM going.  "Around
the world" means absolutly NOTHING in the electronic age.  Heck, this
message might have been routed thru a transoceanic cable to Europe, bounced
off a satellite, relayed thru Japan, before it got to you.  It went around
the world....big deal.

>Now for the Uncle Pete guy who thinks its appropriate to personally write me 
> and
>swear at me, you have my reply in your email box. Your letter was very
>disheartening and I do not enjoy being slandered. I hope no else on this list
>feels this is approriate behavior....if you all do maybe "olds" people 

Now, now.  That letter I sent you was NOT IN ANY WAY meant to be a personal
attack on you.  It is a "stock" response to all these SPAM messages that
get sent my way.  If you took my reply PERSONALLY, then I apologize.  It
was meant as a joke, but with a strong underlying meaning.  While perhaps
my response offended you, do you realize how many of these type of SPAM
messages I have recieved in the past???  It gets real old after awhile.

You're *ONE* message to the list generated OVER 400 more messages (not to
mention alot of not-so-nice replies in YOUR mailbox).  That's what I am
talking about.....all that extra and totally USELESS mail being send here
there and everywhere.  The internet is NOT free.  SOMEONE is paying for
those SPAM messages to be sent.

In closing, I (like you) appologize for offending.

- - Uncle Pete

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 13:48:00 -0500
From: "Hitson, Roger" <HITSOR@mail.dmh.state.mo.us>
Subject: more Q-jet babble

this is all subjective, I know, BUT.....my car seems to have more bottom end
power (spins tires easier) before the choke is fully opened. would you think
it likely that this would be due to overly large primary jets?
i'm using .074 primaries  with .049 primary rods as per 1969 W-31 specs. i
have tried to approximate w-31 specs in my 350 & am close on all counts
except - slightly lower compression ratio, higher lift & shorter duration
camshaft.

carb starts & runs good, doesn't load up, only smells rich with full choke

any thoughts appreciated.

roger hitson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 11:54:56 -0700
From: BOYD DONALD R <drboyd@srpnet.com>
Subject: Rocker Arm shims - Repeat

Sorry to ask this twice, but I'm on digest mode and sometimes the message
comes through cut off about a third of the way through.  And of course, the
pithy and insightful answer was cut off from the last time I asked.  So here
goes again.

Shimming rocker arms:  Good or bad?  Anybody done it?  Does it hold up OK?
I'm getting conflicting stories from two both supposedly reputable
mecahnics...

Thanks!

Don Boyd
76 Cutlass 455 Hurst T-Tops
Factory Orange wheels

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:00:22 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: differences in carbs

In a message dated 99-05-19 22:26:53 EDT, you write:

<< What is the difference between a  Q-jet off a 72 442 and a  Q-jet off a 70
 442 W-30? Any and all comments would be  appreciated. >>

If the 1970 W-30 is from a manual transmission car, it is 7040256 and does 
NOT have a power piston or  primary metering rods.

The auto tranny W-30 has 7033655 sec rods and "J" hanger, with 7031969 
primary jets. and 7040701 primary mering rods with 7036019 power pioston 
spring.

If the 1972 carb has Pull-Over Enrichment, then it is rodded/jetted slightly 
leaner than '71 or '70 carbs.

Nevermind, after after a brief looksee, there is one (1) carb for 1972 
Oldsmobile 4 4 2's.
It is 7042953 with 7031969 primary jets, 7034847 primary rods, 7037851 power 
piston spring and 7045778 secondary rod with 7034522 holder ("J" hanger)

Does that answer your question?

Good luck!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:05:09 -0700
From: "Robin Orsino" <shaggy316@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Ball Joint Time?  Opinions, pls

unsubscribe.  Just leave me alone.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 8:03 PM
Subject: Re: Ball Joint Time? Opinions, pls


>Andersons wrote:
>>
>> My local shop failed me on state insection; lower ball joints.  This
>> is a real high miles car, so it's easy to believe.  They quoted $170
>> to do the thing, parts, labor, alignment, which seems pretty decent.
>>
>> So, you think I should bring her home and do the joints, bushings,
>> springs (missing a few precious weeks of great top-down cruising
>> weather), or let them just "do it to it"?
>
>The ball joints should take you a weekend.  Just go to the nearest
>Autozone, slap your Visa on the counter, sign yer name and you get a
>loaner ball joint press.  They'll bill you $100 for it which they'll
>credit back to your card when you return it.  It's pretty
>straighforward;  Just a huge, heavy C-clamp with a selection of sleves
>that you use to push the ball joint out.
>
>Better buy a cheapie "pickle fork" ball joint seperator while you're
>there.  And some universal tie rod end grease boots from the "help"
>section.  Odds are yours are shot and will split in two when you get the
>tie rod ends loose.  Depending on how stuck to the spindles the ball
>joint shafts are, you may need to procure a 2 lb hammer from a buddy
>while you're at it.  I had one ball joint that my 24oz ball peen hammer
>wouldn't budge.  I knew I'd end up paying for all that pond hopping I
>used to do on fishing trips. :)  Careful you don't slip and hit the disk
>brake dust plates while you're under there whailing on the ball joints.
>
>Last time I did ball joints I removed the knuckles and propped them up
>on some gallon paint cans.  That way I could leave the brake hoses
>attatched.  Used the press to pop out the old lower ball joints and
>install the new ones.  Upper ball joints unbolt and replacements bolt
>in.  If you're upper ball joints are ~really~ old (as in factory
>original)  you will have to drill out the factory rivets.
>
>~Really~ clean up the lower arms where the ball joints mount and check
>for any signs of cracking or stress.  Some people even have them
>magnafluxed if they're high mileage as the service life on them are only
>about 200,000 miles.  The ends have been known to snap off while driving
>down the road (Right Chris Fair? :).  Doesn't happen often but it
>happens.  Your call.
>
>Probably the best way to do the A-arm bushings is to take the A-arms to
>a shop and have it done.  Unless you have acess to a press.
>
>Springs require a spring compressor for removal and installation.  Might
>borrow that from a parts store too, I'm not sure.
>
>So you're up for inspection this month too?  Mine needs A-arm bushings
>to pass inspection as well.  Hoping to do the 12" brake spindle swap
>while I'm at it and replace the springs.  200,000+ mile steering box
>needs something done with it, and the shocks are getting old.  Glad
>uncle Sam finally sent me some money back.
>
>Greg Pruett
>72 Vista Cruiser
>67 Cutlass Supreme
>80 Cutlass Calais
>73 98 LS

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:05:55 -0700
From: "Robin Orsino" <shaggy316@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Freon was Wasps! 

unsubscribe, don't send me anything else.
- -----Original Message-----
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com <LOUS69W30@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 8:14 PM
Subject: Re: Freon was Wasps!


In a message dated 5/19/99 8:59:43 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
JonKrisInc@aol.com writes:

<< He simply took a can of freon (probably too expensive a solution
today) instantly froze them, and they cracked like ice on the ground when he
stepped on them. >>

I have another good use for freon.  When I had my first apartment the
landlord had a lock on the thermostat so I couldn?t control the heat.  So
what I did was take a can of freon and spray it on the thermostat.  It got
the oil burner running full speed for quite a while and got the apartment
nice and warm.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:06:25 -0700
From: "Robin Orsino" <shaggy316@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Boring Question!

unsubscribe, don't send me any more crap about cars.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Gene Gatti <jerseydevil@mindspring.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 8:17 PM
Subject: Re: Boring Question!


>
>>Stock Bore and stroke of a Ford 302 is  4.002 x 3.00 which equals 301.9
which
>>rounds up to 302.
>>
>>Bore this .030 and you now have a bore of 4.032 and a stroke of 3.00 which
>>equals 306.4 and this rounds down to 306
>                       ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
>
>
>Well yeah, but if you round UP it comes out to 307 which makes it an
>Oldsmobile :-)
>Gene
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:08:34 -0400
From: "Robert McCarthy" <robm4@gis.net>
Subject: Re: Plate Stickers

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BEA2D2.A14C0BE0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Here is MA our plate stickers are free!  Our ridiculously high taxes =
must pay for it.
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Rock Man=20
  To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca=20
  Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 2:22 PM
  Subject: Re: Plate Stickers


  The small tab that indicates when it expires? 78
  bucks? Ouch! Here in ND I think they are something
  like 20 or 25 bucks. I don't remember right off hand,
  but the Olds will be due soon.

  Del

  --- "Johnson, Samuel" <SJohnso6@allstate.com> wrote:
  > Well it seems that the plate sticker the state of IL
  > will be $78. The price
  > use to be 48.  I was wondering if anybody out there
  > pays more or less for
  > there state plate sticker.
  >=20
  >=20
  > Sam Johnson
  > 71Cutlass455
  > 95 Thunderbird
  >=20

  =3D=3D=3D
  Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
  rockman20@yahoo.com
  1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
  1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For =
Sale)
  1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
  (I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
  _____________________________________________________________
  Do You Yahoo!?
  Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com


- ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BEA2D2.A14C0BE0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000080 face=3D"Century Gothic" size=3D3>Here is MA =
our plate=20
stickers are free!&nbsp; Our ridiculously high taxes must pay for=20
it.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000080 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A href=3D"mailto:rockman20@yahoo.com" =
title=3Drockman20@yahoo.com>Rock Man</A>=20
  </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A=20
  href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca"=20
  title=3Doldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Thursday, May 20, 1999 =
2:22=20
PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: Plate =
Stickers</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>The small tab that indicates when it expires? =
78<BR>bucks?=20
  Ouch! Here in ND I think they are something<BR>like 20 or 25 bucks. I =
don't=20
  remember right off hand,<BR>but the Olds will be due=20
  soon.<BR><BR>Del<BR><BR>--- "Johnson, Samuel" &lt;<A=20
  href=3D"mailto:SJohnso6@allstate.com">SJohnso6@allstate.com</A>&gt;=20
  wrote:<BR>&gt; Well it seems that the plate sticker the state of =
IL<BR>&gt;=20
  will be $78. The price<BR>&gt; use to be 48.&nbsp; I was wondering if =
anybody=20
  out there<BR>&gt; pays more or less for<BR>&gt; there state plate=20
  sticker.<BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; <BR>&gt; Sam Johnson<BR>&gt; =
71Cutlass455<BR>&gt; 95=20
  Thunderbird<BR>&gt; <BR><BR>=3D=3D=3D<BR>Rock-Man's Page <A=20
  =
href=3D"http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan">http://www.angelfire.com/nd/=
RockMan</A><BR><A=20
  href=3D"mailto:rockman20@yahoo.com">rockman20@yahoo.com</A><BR>1986 =
Honda Accord=20
  DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"<BR>1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a =
1983=20
  Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)<BR>1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a =
197?=20
  Massey Ferguson Snowmobile<BR>(I like things in pairs!=20
  =
*LOL*)<BR>_____________________________________________________________<B=
R>Do=20
  You Yahoo!?<BR>Free instant messaging and more at <A=20
  =
href=3D"http://messenger.yahoo.com">http://messenger.yahoo.com</A><BR></B=
LOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BEA2D2.A14C0BE0--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:06:54 -0700
From: "Robin Orsino" <shaggy316@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Non-Olds-New computer/thanks IBM

Please don't send me anything else.
- -----Original Message-----
From: steve harris <meso@pamlico.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 8:37 PM
Subject: Re: Non-Olds-New computer/thanks IBM


>If you bitch loud enough it will get there attention.  GOOD job dude.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <OLDS44272@aol.com>
>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 10:12 PM
>Subject: Non-Olds-New computer/thanks IBM
>
>
>>            About 4 weeks ago, the mother board burned up on my IBM Aptiva
>> computer. The computer was only 13 months old. I called IBM to see if it
>was
>> normal that thier product fails just as the warrenty expires. The first
>guy i
>> talked to said that one year warrenty means only one year.    Not happy
>with
>> that response, i talked to his boss. the second saaid i could file a
>formal
>> complaint with IBM. So they took a statement from me. When they asked
what
>it
>> would take to make me happy, i said to make better products and extend my
>> warrenty to cover the part failure.  Later that day, i got a fax that
>> extended my warrenty till july 31st, 1999!! I took the computer to an
>> autherized IBM repair place and now here i am back on line.,,   Meanwhile
>i
>> bought a parts chaser mobile, a 1980 Chevy truck, in-line 6, automatic at
>the
>> city auction for only $400.. The truck is solid for a northern Ohio
truck.
>> Once you get over the bland green color and the white rims/ bumpers, it
>> should serve nice as a parts chaser. ......SCOTT
>>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:07:24 -0700
From: "Robin Orsino" <shaggy316@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Ball Joint Time?  Opinions, pls

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

please don't send me anything else.  I mean it this time.  UNSUBSCRIBE =
ME!!!!!!!!!
    -----Original Message-----
    From: steve harris <meso@pamlico.net>
    To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
    Date: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 8:45 PM
    Subject: Re: Ball Joint Time? Opinions, pls
   =20
   =20
    NO way dude!  DO it at home!  The bushings are a bear to replace.  =
If you can get someone to press the bushings in cheap let them.  If you =
are a die hard do it yourself kinda guy,   go for it.  I made a web page =
showing the at home bushing removal if you want to try it.  The ball =
joints are easy if you have the tools.  The Auto Zone here rents tools.  =
I rented the ball joint taker-outer,  and had no trouble with it.  The =
bushings are another job all together.  Feel free to check the web site, =
and decide for your self.
    meso@pamlico.net
    Steve
    North Carolina
    ICQ#26466860
    http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
        ----- Original Message -----=20
        From: Andersons=20
        To: Olds List=20
        Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 10:22 PM
        Subject: Ball Joint Time? Opinions, pls
       =20
       =20
        My local shop failed me on state insection; lower ball joints.  =
This is a real high miles car, so it's easy to believe.  They quoted =
$170 to do the thing, parts, labor, alignment, which seems pretty =
decent.  I'm tempted to do it myself, however, at least in part cuz I =
like to work on the ole' southside car (71 Cutlass Conv).
       =20
        Big time toe-in wear appeared all of a sudden on front tires =
too, and a bit of out-of-round on one side- yes, you guessed it- 2 =
tires, too.
       =20
        So, you think I should bring her home and do the joints, =
bushings, springs (missing a few precious weeks of great top-down =
cruising weather), or let them just "do it to it"?
        Bob, Covington, VA
        robertan@cfw.com

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 =
Transitional//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>

</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>please don't send me anything =
else.&nbsp; I mean=20
it this time.&nbsp; UNSUBSCRIBE ME!!!!!!!!!</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>steve harris &lt;<A=20
    href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A>&gt;<BR><B>To: =
</B><A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A> =
&lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>&g=
t;<BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>Wednesday, May 19, 1999 8:45 PM<BR><B>Subject: </B>Re: Ball =
Joint Time?=20
    Opinions, pls<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>NO way dude!&nbsp; DO it at home!&nbsp; The =
bushings are a=20
    bear to replace.&nbsp; If you can get someone to press the bushings =
in cheap=20
    let them.&nbsp; If you are a die hard do it yourself kinda =
guy,&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
    go for it.&nbsp; I made a web page showing the at home bushing =
removal if=20
    you want to try it.&nbsp; The ball joints are easy if you have the=20
    tools.&nbsp; The Auto Zone here rents tools.&nbsp; I rented the ball =
joint=20
    taker-outer,&nbsp; and had no trouble with it.&nbsp; The bushings =
are=20
    another job all together.&nbsp; Feel free to check the web site, and =
decide=20
    for your self.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A><BR>Steve<BR>North=20
    Carolina<BR>ICQ#26466860<BR><A=20
    =
href=3D"http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html">http://members.xoo=
m.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html</A></FONT></DIV>
    <BLOCKQUOTE=20
    style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; =
MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
        <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- =
</DIV>
        <DIV=20
        style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
        <A href=3D"mailto:robertan@cfw.com" =
title=3Drobertan@cfw.com>Andersons</A>=20
        </DIV>
        <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A=20
        href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca"=20
        title=3Doldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>Olds List</A> </DIV>
        <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, May 19, =
1999 10:22=20
        PM</DIV>
        <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Ball Joint Time? =
Opinions,=20
        pls</DIV>
        <DIV><BR></DIV>
        <DIV>My local shop failed me on state insection; lower ball=20
        joints.&nbsp; This is a real high miles car, so it's easy to=20
        believe.&nbsp; They quoted $170 to do the thing, parts, labor,=20
        alignment, which seems pretty decent.&nbsp; I'm tempted to do it =
myself,=20
        however, at least in part cuz I like to work on the ole' =
southside car=20
        (71 Cutlass Conv).</DIV>
        <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
        <DIV>Big time toe-in wear appeared all of a sudden on front =
tires too,=20
        and a bit of out-of-round on one side- yes, you guessed it- 2 =
tires,=20
        too.</DIV>
        <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
        <DIV>So, you think I should bring her home and do the joints, =
bushings,=20
        springs (missing a few precious weeks of great top-down cruising =

        weather), or let them just &quot;do it to it&quot;?</DIV>
        <DIV>Bob, Covington, VA<BR><A=20
        =
href=3D"mailto:robertan@cfw.com">robertan@cfw.com</A></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE><=
/BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0021_01BEA2D2.7786AFE0--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:08:33 -0700
From: "Robin Orsino" <shaggy316@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Re:-Microsoft?? This is a scam!

Unsubscribe.  If I get any more sh*t from you guys, I will sue.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Richard Nogin <wickett66@hotmail.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 8:56 PM
Subject: Re:-Microsoft?? This is a scam!


>This is a scam.  They cannot track your email!!  Someone just wants to send
>this garbage to as many people as they can.  It is just like the miller
>email.  Please do not post this stuff here.  I get enough of it with my
>other email address's.  Besides could you imagine how much money Microsoft
>would have to shell out.
>
>
>_______________________________________________________________
>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:08:58 -0700
From: "Robin Orsino" <shaggy316@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass vs. 97 Mustang

I mean it, unsubscribe me.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Richard Nogin <wickett66@hotmail.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 9:00 PM
Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass vs. 97 Mustang


>This is not a stock car.  Saleen Race preps Mustangs.  That would be like
>calling a baldwin motion camaro a factory car.  I am sure that there are a
>few oldsmobiles on this list that are faster.
>
>
>>
>>I just check and that was the Ford Saleen Mustang,
>>not the Cobra.
>>
>>This Mustang has 495 HP, 0 - 60 in 4.6 seconds and
>>1/4 mile at 122 mph.  Didn't give time for the 1/4
>>though.
>>
>>This is definitely faster than my 442 and it is
>>even faster than a stock 1968 H/O.
>
>
>_______________________________________________________________
>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:09:22 -0700
From: "Robin Orsino" <shaggy316@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: 600 miles and holding

Unsubscribe me, I don't want any more junk.
- -----Original Message-----
From: CChand4644@aol.com <CChand4644@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 9:10 PM
Subject: Re: 600 miles and holding


>Corey,
>This too has happened to me.
>First time was a cam/lifter failure.
>
>Second time was a spun bearing.
>
>Both times you could easily tell by the amount of metal in the oil. The oil
>was so saturated with metal shavings, you could see it in the light.
>So if you pull the pan, check the bearings, oil pump bolts, and find no
>problems, you might want to pull the intake manifold and valley pan to
check
>the pan.
>Hope your gage is messed up and nothing else.
>Chris

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:10:05 -0700
From: "Robin Orsino" <shaggy316@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: 600 miles and holding

Unsubscribe.  I mean it.  Do Not send me any more junk.
- -----Original Message-----
From: CChand4644@aol.com <CChand4644@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 9:13 PM
Subject: Re: 600 miles and holding


>Pull intake manifold, valley pan and check the CAM!
>Sorry,
>Chris

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:11:38 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: more Q-jet babble

In a message dated 99-05-20 14:51:51 EDT, you write:

<< this is all subjective, I know, BUT.....my car seems to have more bottom 
end
 power (spins tires easier) before the choke is fully opened. would you think
 it likely that this would be due to overly large primary jets?
 i'm using .074 primaries  with .049 primary rods as per 1969 W-31 specs. i
 have tried to approximate w-31 specs in my 350 & am close on all counts
 except - slightly lower compression ratio, higher lift & shorter duration
 camshaft. >>

Dunno for certain.
What I can say is that Manual transmission cars have suspiciously leaner 
jetting than AT cars.
Also, that modern cams tend to have higher lift/shorter duration than older 
cars  so as to enhance mileage (tends to increase with ~inteligent~ 
performance)
This may make up-jetting unnecessary.

If you need 73 jets, I can mail them to you and your input of effects would 
be well worth the cost as I feel that new muffler is particularly restrictive 
such that a Qjet would be a wasted effort.

Even with the tiny primaries.
(besides, two car shows in june, better if I replace 2GC top and air cleaner 
shroud)

K

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:13:44 -0400
From: "Jim and Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: O.C. Cruise In

Mike,
    Are you definately going?  It is an awesome show and your car would
definately fit in.  I saw an awesome triple black 1970 W30 convertible there
last year.  There is everything from customs to factory original cars there.
If it doesn't rain it will be awesome again.

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible  OCA# 031463
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
> Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 17:42:10 -0400
> From: "Shokouhi, Mike" <ShokouhM@nasd.com>
> Subject: 69 H/O first time at track story follow-up
>
> >
> >Hi all,
> >I mentioned last week that I was taking my recently finished restored 69
H/O
> >to the track.  Most of my friends thought i was crazy to take what took
me 5
..............
> >Brent was kind enough to offer me a yoke and driveshaft to borrow, since
i
> >was planning on doing the huge Ocean City Cruise this week.  I'm
currently in
> >the process of getting it back together (had a shaft made yesterday-but
there
> >go some points : (

> >Mike Shokouhi

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:12:46 -0700
From: "Robin Orsino" <shaggy316@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Header insulation wrap

Don't not send me any more of this junk.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Knightvd@aol.com <Knightvd@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, May 20, 1999 5:35 AM
Subject: Re: Header insulation wrap


>As always the list provides a wealth of knowledge and experience.  Thanks
for
>all the responses on the subject!
>
>Vince Knight
>71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:12:59 -0700
From: "Robin Orsino" <shaggy316@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: ICQ

UNSUBSCRIBE ME NOW.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Steve Traynor <dartster@hotmail.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, May 20, 1999 5:49 AM
Subject: Re: ICQ


>I would hazard the guess that I actually have the lowest ICQ number that
any
>of ya have ever seen..and feel free to use it!
>
>108901
>Dartster
>
>'70 Cutlass S Hardtop
>
>Subject: ICQ
>
>
> > Hi all,
> >
> > Have any of you looked into ICQ?  I have a handle and will
> > be glad to mutually share it.  It is great for detecting
> > friends on the net.....
> >
> > Later gators....
> >
>
>
>
>_______________________________________________________________
>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:13:15 -0700
From: "Robin Orsino" <shaggy316@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: 49-55 olds V8 engine

DON'T send me any more messages.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Mark Cornea <mcornea@ford.com>
To: olds <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, May 20, 1999 5:54 AM
Subject: 49-55 olds V8 engine


>> Subject:
>> Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 13:32:33 -0400
>> From: Parker_Dresser@umit.maine.edu (Parker Dresser)
>> Organization: University of Maine
>> To: contact@drdecal.com
>>
>> Hello,
>>         I have a 49-55 olds V8 engine.  It is a GM test engine and has
never
>> been in a car.  I am selling it.  It includes starter, generator, and
>> carb.  Could you help me out with this?
>> pd
>
>
> I received this note last night. ............ If interested, please
>respond directly to:
>
> mailto:Parker_Dresser@umit.maine.edu
>
>         ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>               Mark Cornea (Dr. Decal)  OCA# 4903
>                             1970 W30 (red)
>
>                      mailto:drdecal@wwnet.net
>
>                    Visit http://www.drdecal.com
>        ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:13:34 -0700
From: "Robin Orsino" <shaggy316@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Ball Joint Time?  Opinions, pls

Do not send me any more of this sh*t.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, May 20, 1999 5:58 AM
Subject: Re: Ball Joint Time? Opinions, pls


>whats all this press talk the bushings are easy so are the ball joints
piece
>of cake just knock em out with a hammer after partially collapsing the
shell
>with a chisel then knock the new ones in should be about an hour job the
>ball joints are just as easy the ball joint tool is ok but all you need is
a
>big hammer when you reinstall the bushings get an inch and a half pipe
>nipple and a cap for it and it makes a wonderful punch no presses necessary
>by the way I have watched a guy pretzel a control arm trying to press in
>bushings with a hydraulic press...KK
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Sent: Friday, May 21, 1999 1:10 AM
>Subject: Re: Ball Joint Time? Opinions, pls
>
>
>> Andersons wrote:
>> >
>> > My local shop failed me on state insection; lower ball joints.  This
>> > is a real high miles car, so it's easy to believe.  They quoted $170
>> > to do the thing, parts, labor, alignment, which seems pretty decent.
>> >
>> > So, you think I should bring her home and do the joints, bushings,
>> > springs (missing a few precious weeks of great top-down cruising
>> > weather), or let them just "do it to it"?
>>
>> The ball joints should take you a weekend.  Just go to the nearest
>> Autozone, slap your Visa on the counter, sign yer name and you get a
>> loaner ball joint press.  They'll bill you $100 for it which they'll
>> credit back to your card when you return it.  It's pretty
>> straighforward;  Just a huge, heavy C-clamp with a selection of sleves
>> that you use to push the ball joint out.
>>
>> Better buy a cheapie "pickle fork" ball joint seperator while you're
>> there.  And some universal tie rod end grease boots from the "help"
>> section.  Odds are yours are shot and will split in two when you get the
>> tie rod ends loose.  Depending on how stuck to the spindles the ball
>> joint shafts are, you may need to procure a 2 lb hammer from a buddy
>> while you're at it.  I had one ball joint that my 24oz ball peen hammer
>> wouldn't budge.  I knew I'd end up paying for all that pond hopping I
>> used to do on fishing trips. :)  Careful you don't slip and hit the disk
>> brake dust plates while you're under there whailing on the ball joints.
>>
>> Last time I did ball joints I removed the knuckles and propped them up
>> on some gallon paint cans.  That way I could leave the brake hoses
>> attatched.  Used the press to pop out the old lower ball joints and
>> install the new ones.  Upper ball joints unbolt and replacements bolt
>> in.  If you're upper ball joints are ~really~ old (as in factory
>> original)  you will have to drill out the factory rivets.
>>
>> ~Really~ clean up the lower arms where the ball joints mount and check
>> for any signs of cracking or stress.  Some people even have them
>> magnafluxed if they're high mileage as the service life on them are only
>> about 200,000 miles.  The ends have been known to snap off while driving
>> down the road (Right Chris Fair? :).  Doesn't happen often but it
>> happens.  Your call.
>>
>> Probably the best way to do the A-arm bushings is to take the A-arms to
>> a shop and have it done.  Unless you have acess to a press.
>>
>> Springs require a spring compressor for removal and installation.  Might
>> borrow that from a parts store too, I'm not sure.
>>
>> So you're up for inspection this month too?  Mine needs A-arm bushings
>> to pass inspection as well.  Hoping to do the 12" brake spindle swap
>> while I'm at it and replace the springs.  200,000+ mile steering box
>> needs something done with it, and the shocks are getting old.  Glad
>> uncle Sam finally sent me some money back.
>>
>> Greg Pruett
>> 72 Vista Cruiser
>> 67 Cutlass Supreme
>> 80 Cutlass Calais
>> 73 98 LS
>>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:13:51 -0700
From: "Robin Orsino" <shaggy316@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: differences in carbs

Do not send me any more stuff.
- -----Original Message-----
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, May 20, 1999 6:29 AM
Subject: Re: differences in carbs


>Mike McLeod wrote:
>
>> What is the difference between a  Q-jet off a 72 442 and a  Q-jet off a
70
>> 442 W-30? Any and all comments would be  appreciated.
>>
>> Michael McLeod
>> 70 W-30
>> 97 Aurora
>
>Mike,
>
>For one thing, there are no primary metering rods or power valve in the '70
>Q-jet for a 4-speed W-30 (7040256), I'm not sure about the 7040258 used on
the
>W-30 with an automatic, it might have metering rods.
>
>While we're on the subject, does anyone have the specs on internal orifices
>and bleeds for Q-jets.  These are probably what make up the difference,
along
>with jets and metering rods, between the Q-jets used for different
>applications.  Would love to get my hands on these.
>
>Dude
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:16:01 -0700
From: "Robin Orsino" <shaggy316@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Power Tour

Do not send me any more messages.  Unsubscribe.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Oldsfire@aol.com <Oldsfire@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, May 20, 1999 6:50 AM
Subject: Re: Power Tour


>Hey Fred, you going to Irving, in June, to the OCA Nationals??  We are also
>going down!!  If you are going what day and what time you heading out and
>where are you staying!!!    John.  Oldsfire@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:16:19 -0700
From: "Robin Orsino" <shaggy316@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Boring Question!

Unsubscribe me now.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Richard Nogin <wickett66@hotmail.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, May 20, 1999 8:36 AM
Subject: Re: Boring Question!


>Thanks for the answers you have sent.  It looks like I win the bet!
>
>
>_______________________________________________________________
>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:16:53 -0700
From: "Robin Orsino" <shaggy316@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: more Q-jet babble

Please tell me how to unsubscribe to this conversation.
- -----Original Message-----
From: KarlAunan@aol.com <KarlAunan@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, May 20, 1999 12:13 PM
Subject: Re: more Q-jet babble


>In a message dated 99-05-20 14:51:51 EDT, you write:
>
><< this is all subjective, I know, BUT.....my car seems to have more bottom
>end
> power (spins tires easier) before the choke is fully opened. would you
think
> it likely that this would be due to overly large primary jets?
> i'm using .074 primaries  with .049 primary rods as per 1969 W-31 specs. i
> have tried to approximate w-31 specs in my 350 & am close on all counts
> except - slightly lower compression ratio, higher lift & shorter duration
> camshaft. >>
>
>Dunno for certain.
>What I can say is that Manual transmission cars have suspiciously leaner
>jetting than AT cars.
>Also, that modern cams tend to have higher lift/shorter duration than older
>cars  so as to enhance mileage (tends to increase with ~inteligent~
>performance)
>This may make up-jetting unnecessary.
>
>If you need 73 jets, I can mail them to you and your input of effects would
>be well worth the cost as I feel that new muffler is particularly
restrictive
>such that a Qjet would be a wasted effort.
>
>Even with the tiny primaries.
>(besides, two car shows in june, better if I replace 2GC top and air
cleaner
>shroud)
>
>K

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:17:38 -0700
From: "Robin Orsino" <shaggy316@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: O.C. Cruise In

Please tell me how to get rid of all these messages.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jim and Sharon Brady <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Thursday, May 20, 1999 12:16 PM
Subject: O.C. Cruise In


>Mike,
>    Are you definately going?  It is an awesome show and your car would
>definately fit in.  I saw an awesome triple black 1970 W30 convertible
there
>last year.  There is everything from customs to factory original cars
there.
>If it doesn't rain it will be awesome again.
>
>Jim Brady
>1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible  OCA# 031463
>http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
>bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
>> Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 17:42:10 -0400
>> From: "Shokouhi, Mike" <ShokouhM@nasd.com>
>> Subject: 69 H/O first time at track story follow-up
>>
>> >
>> >Hi all,
>> >I mentioned last week that I was taking my recently finished restored 69
>H/O
>> >to the track.  Most of my friends thought i was crazy to take what took
>me 5
>..............
>> >Brent was kind enough to offer me a yoke and driveshaft to borrow, since
>i
>> >was planning on doing the huge Ocean City Cruise this week.  I'm
>currently in
>> >the process of getting it back together (had a shaft made yesterday-but
>there
>> >go some points : (
>
>> >Mike Shokouhi
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 13:23:12 -0500
From: "David Popadic" <davepop@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Plate Stickers

Wisconsin ($45) - Collector Special Plates, different than Collector Plates
(blue ones) (as of yeterday!)

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Johnson, Samuel <SJohnso6@allstate.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 1:16 PM
Subject: Plate Stickers


> Well it seems that the plate sticker the state of IL will be $78. The
price
> use to be 48.  I was wondering if anybody out there pays more or less for
> there state plate sticker.
>
>
> Sam Johnson
> 71Cutlass455
> 95 Thunderbird
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:25:08 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Plate Stickers

<< Well it seems that the plate sticker the state of IL will be $78. The 
price use to be $48.  I was wondering if anybody out there pays more or less 
for there state plate sticker.  Sam Johnson >>
 
<<< Here in the increasingly inaccurately named Commonwealth of 
Taxachusetts", it's $40.  You no longer have to get an insuance stamp each 
time you renew nymore either, so you can mail it in w/o waiting in line at 
the RMV. *Plus* doing by mail saves you $5 -- I just renewed the registration 
this month on one of the fleet for $35... >>>

Hi Sam.
Have known for some time that licence costa were less outside HUGE 
metropolitan areas like Chi-town, but for the moment I'll shock other list 
members with: $60

That's the cost of the Chicago City Sticker (required).
The brother's car was ticketed twice for towing (no plate renew sticker) 
which I defeated both times because I arrived home from work at an early hour 
and telephoned him on both occasions to say "Hey! wanna lose your car?"

Licence plate stickers are going up to pay for different programs.

But Karl buyd liquor in Indiana.

Nyah, Nyah, Nyah.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:25:14 -0400
From: "Meyer, Erich" <EMeyer@mdsctl.com>
Subject: RE: Plate Stickers

		Here in Canada you pay for the sticker $80-+ (validation
with the year and month it's valid to) for a car per year. What is this
State sticker that you are talking about?


		Erich 84 H/O


		-----Original Message-----
		From:	David Popadic [mailto:davepop@execpc.com]
		Sent:	Thursday, May 20, 1999 2:23 PM
		To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
		Subject:	Re: Plate Stickers

		Wisconsin ($45) - Collector Special Plates, different than
Collector Plates
		(blue ones) (as of yeterday!)

		----- Original Message -----
		From: Johnson, Samuel <SJohnso6@allstate.com>
		To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
		Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 1:16 PM
		Subject: Plate Stickers


		> Well it seems that the plate sticker the state of IL will
be $78. The
		price
		> use to be 48.  I was wondering if anybody out there pays
more or less for
		> there state plate sticker.
		>
		>
		> Sam Johnson
		> 71Cutlass455
		> 95 Thunderbird
		>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 14:14:25 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: How to unsubscribe!

Rob:

Please stop posting to the list!!! Go here for unsub info:

http://www.oldslist.tsx.org

You must send a message to majordomo@chebucto.ns.ca with no subject with the 
following in the body:

unsubscribe oldsmobile


Hope this helps. Please be more careful when subscribing to a mailing 
list next time. Most of them will send you more then 50 messages a day. 

Regards, George

- ---------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
- ---------------------

On Thu, 20 May 1999, Robin Orsino wrote:

> Please tell me how to get rid of all these messages.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jim and Sharon Brady <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Thursday, May 20, 1999 12:16 PM
> Subject: O.C. Cruise In
> 
> 
> >Mike,
> >    Are you definately going?  It is an awesome show and your car would
> >definately fit in.  I saw an awesome triple black 1970 W30 convertible
> there
> >last year.  There is everything from customs to factory original cars
> there.
> >If it doesn't rain it will be awesome again.
> >
> >Jim Brady
> >1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible  OCA# 031463
> >http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
> >bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
> >> Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 17:42:10 -0400
> >> From: "Shokouhi, Mike" <ShokouhM@nasd.com>
> >> Subject: 69 H/O first time at track story follow-up
> >>
> >> >
> >> >Hi all,
> >> >I mentioned last week that I was taking my recently finished restored 69
> >H/O
> >> >to the track.  Most of my friends thought i was crazy to take what took
> >me 5
> >..............
> >> >Brent was kind enough to offer me a yoke and driveshaft to borrow, since
> >i
> >> >was planning on doing the huge Ocean City Cruise this week.  I'm
> >currently in
> >> >the process of getting it back together (had a shaft made yesterday-but
> >there
> >> >go some points : (
> >
> >> >Mike Shokouhi
> >
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 16:35:34 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: ADMIN: Clueless, The Movie

On Thu, 20 May 1999, Robin Orsino wrote:
> Unsubscribe.  If I get any more sh*t from you guys, I will sue.
> DON'T send me any more messages.

... along with about 20 other similar messages, some that made it to the
list, some that just bounced to me.

If the person had spent half the time it took to send those 20 posts in
looking at either of the addresses below, or at the message received upon
sign-up, it would have been no problem. Please, folks, use the brain you
were given. The web pages below make it as easy as can be -- but only if
you use them!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 14:37:49 -0500
From: "David Popadic" <davepop@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: To wax or not to wax?

A new twist to the subject:

I have a paint job that was done in 92, it looks pretty good, it's Black.
My friends advises not to use the hand glaze because of the age of the
paint.  He thinks it might do more harm than good?

Any ideas (or comments) on this?

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Drew Senko <dsenko@UU.NET>
To: olds <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 11:17 AM
Subject: Re: To wax or not to wax?


> > On vehicles that are not driven on a daily basis in rain or snow, is it
> > better to not wax the car or to use hand glaze? Someone told me that wax
> > will leave swirl marks in the paint and that with continued waxing the
car
> > will look worse because the wax will compound itself. They said to use a
> > hand glaze such as 3M Imperial Hand Glaze which contains no wax or
> > silicone. The hand glaze also protects the clear by leaving a layer of
> > glaze that does not build up as wax does.
> >
> > Is this true?
> >
> > Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
>
> Peter,
>
> IMHO, this info in incorrect.  There's a whole slew of products out
> there for the surface of your car, and it's sometimes difficult to
> know what the differences are.
>
> Wax is applied as a protective layer over the clean painted surface.
> Wax is not the product that makes your paint shine and look good.
>
> Polishes and glazes "clean" the paint (after you've washed and dried
> the car) in order to prepare it for waxing.
>
> After washing and drying your car, you should examine the condition of
> the paint.  Does it feel smooth to the touch?  If it has a decent wax
> coating on it, then it should feel smooth.  Does the water bead on it?
> again, this is a sign that it has a good coat of wax on it.  If not,
> then you should consider applying a layer of wax.
>
> But before you do that, look closely at the paint.  Are there hairline
> scratches or swirlmarks?  If so, then you want to address these
> problems *before* you wax the car.  This is where glazes and polishes
> come into play.  A glaze is typically a very mildly abrasive product
> that when used properly should help remove the swirlmarks and light
> scratches.  If the scratches are deep, then it is beyond the
> ability of the glaze to fix these scratches.
>
> After you are finished with the glaze step, your paint should look as
> good as it's going to look.  You may consider a polish at this point,
> although in some cases polishes and glazes are about the same thing,
> with polishes being even more mild than glazes.
>
> At this point, you should apply a good quality wax to protect that
> finish that you just worked so hard to achieve.  You should not be
> concerned about wax building up, and I think it is also incorrect to
> think that wax is the cause of swirl marks.  As far as buildup goes,
> the glaze will have removed any old wax buildup.  By not waxing after
> a glaze, you have removed whatever protection your precious paint had,
> and left a clean car ripe for paint damage.  The hand glaze DOES NOT
> leave any protective layer!  It stripped the previous protective
> layer, in preparation for the new wax.
>
> Personally, I use the 3M Imperial Hand Glaze when I feel it is
> necessary, and follow it up with Meguiar's wax (I don't remember which
> one).  It's a carauba wax in a can (not liquid).
>
> You can learn a whole lot about this subject by checking out the
> "HOW-TO" articles on the following website:
>
> http://www.CarCareOnline.com
>
> Also, Meguiar's and Mother's have websites with useful info.  Meguiar's
> has some online multimedia clinics, such as how to use orbital buffers.
> Mother's has an FAQ and an e-mail link to send questions to their
> chemists.
>
> http://www.meguiars.com
> http://www.mothers.com
>
> Check them out too.  And wax that car!
>
>  --                    ______________                     _
> Drew Senko            / Convertibles \                    |\
> dsenko@uu.net         \_____Rule!____/     .__====-_._____|_\______
> Vienna, VA, USA                     O      [   ___  |-     |  ___  \
> http://members.aol.com/drewinva       o o  =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)
> _______________________________________________\_/____________\_/_____
>
> P.S.  Wanna see the car that I wax?  Look at the webpage listed above.
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1969
*********************************

