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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1904


oldsmobile-digest       Tuesday, April 13 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1904



Re: Dual Exhaust
Re: rod-stroke ratio and cosine loss of horsepower
Re: 68 air cleaner color???
RE: Dual Exhaust
re:  marine accel pump in Q-jet was : Spring fever
Re: rod-stroke ratio and cosine loss of horsepower
Re: rod-stroke ratio and cosine loss of horsepower
Re: Steering gearbox
Re: 68 air cleaner color???
RE: Carlisle - When? Suggested logistics?
Re: buick wheel for 68 cutlass?
Re: rod-stroke ratio and cosine loss of horsepower
Body parts for my '71 Delta 88 Royale
Re: rod-stroke ratio and cosine loss of horsepower
Rear-End swap
Re: rod-stroke ratio and cosine loss of horsepower
Re: rod-stroke ratio and cosine loss of horsepower
Re: 68 air cleaner color???
Re: Body parts for my '71 Delta 88 Royale
Re :steering gearbox
drilling disk brakes..
Subject: '68 Cutlass 'S' Trim Part Needed
73 - 77 GM A crossmember
Re: those 1LE 12" disk brakes..
Re: Starfire V8
Re: Carlisle
fast-ratio steering boxes from F-bodies, again...
Starfire V8 _did_ exist
Re: steering box questions
Re: Starfire V8 _did_ exist
Re: Carlisle
Re: Carlisle - Who's going?
Car Lover
Re: car shipping companies and prices
'69 Cutlass Trunk Lid
Re: Title Search.
sheet metal sources?
Re: Title search
Re: Title search
(no subject)
Re: Jetaway to TH350
Re: Starfire V8 _did_ exist
Re: Carlisle - Who's going?
Re: Starfire V8 _did_ exist
Re: '69 Cutlass Trunk Lid
G-tech
Re: Carlisle - Who's going?
Re: Rear-End swap
Re: G-tech
Re: G-tech
Re: Dual Exhaust
Re: G-tech
Re: Starfire V8
Re: G-tech
Re: G-tech
Re: G-tech
Re: G-tech
[Fwd: Re: blue-gray chapter]
Re: G-tech
Re: [Fwd: Re: blue-gray chapter]
Re: G-tech
Re: fast-ratio steering boxes from F-bodies, again...

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 14:39:02 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Dual Exhaust

Mickey, 

I would not rush into that. You will get the 20 % off any time at year 
one if you shop for a decent amount. You just have to ask them for it. If 
they only give you 10% discount it will still be worth the waiting until 
you are sure what you want.

I would not buy stock exhaust. When my muffler (glasspacks) will fall 
off, I will bring my baby to my local shop that will put on a nice 
flowmaster setup. I like that sound! I think that flowmaster is a great 
muffler. It will be fairly quiet when driven easy goin and it gets a nice 
aggressive noise when you hit the pedal.

Just my 0.02

Regards, George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

On Tue, 13 Apr 1999 Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com wrote:

> I'm getting ready to put dual exhaust on my '68 Cutlass "s".
> 
> I saw where Year One has the complete set-up.....and I have the 20% off
> coupon that expires tomorrow.
> 
> My only concern is that they state that the mufflers are undersized from
> original.
> 
> Any advice is much appreciated!!!!
> 
> Please keep in mind that I am not a master mechanic and some options are
> more difficult for me to venture into than others.
> 
> 
> Mickey
> 
> '68 Cutlass "S" Conv
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 13:47:16 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: rod-stroke ratio and cosine loss of horsepower

John Carri wrote:
> <real big snip>
> To see how bad this could be, look at some numbers from what I believe
> (for many reasons) is the worst V8 ever made in America - the 400
> small-block Chevy. 

And I thought this engine sucked just because of the siamesed cylinders.  I've
only ever seen 2 of these and they both needed boring and new pistons every
80,000 miles.  The only good thing about these engines was that you can take
the crank (and harmonic balancer) and put it in a 350 to make a screaming 383. 
The 400 Chevy was a truly rotten design IMHO.

Olds content, thank goodness Olds never build such a lemon.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 13:48:39 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: 68 air cleaner color???

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> 
> On Tue, 13 Apr 1999, George wrote:
> > I would need precise info on the color of a 68 4bbl 350 air cleaner on a
> > cutlass-s.
> > Some people have told me that it should be semi gloss black but the one I
> > have off a 68 c/s seems to be still the original color which is red! Also
> > my 68 olds brochure shows a 350 with a red air cleaner element!
> 
> Yes, it is red, sort of an orangey shade of red. 2-bbl air cleaners were
> semi-black, but 4-bbls got this awesome-looking red jobbie which looks
> great against the gold engine paint. I found a match that was a VW color:
> 1985 VW "Mars Red".

So is that the same color as a '69 four barrel engine like the 442's should
be?  Is Mars Red available is spray bombs?
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 15:00:01 -0500
From: Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com
Subject: RE: Dual Exhaust

Which flowmaster series are you considering or have you even gotten that
far?

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	George [SMTP:cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu]
> Sent:	Tuesday, April 13, 1999 2:39 PM
> To:	OldsML
> Subject:	Re: Dual Exhaust
> 
> 
> Mickey, 
> 
> I would not rush into that. You will get the 20 % off any time at year
> 
> one if you shop for a decent amount. You just have to ask them for it.
> If 
> they only give you 10% discount it will still be worth the waiting
> until 
> you are sure what you want.
> 
> I would not buy stock exhaust. When my muffler (glasspacks) will fall 
> off, I will bring my baby to my local shop that will put on a nice 
> flowmaster setup. I like that sound! I think that flowmaster is a
> great 
> muffler. It will be fairly quiet when driven easy goin and it gets a
> nice 
> aggressive noise when you hit the pedal.
> 
> Just my 0.02
> 
> Regards, George
> 
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> '68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
> http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
> --------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> On Tue, 13 Apr 1999 Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com wrote:
> 
> > I'm getting ready to put dual exhaust on my '68 Cutlass "s".
> > 
> > I saw where Year One has the complete set-up.....and I have the 20%
> off
> > coupon that expires tomorrow.
> > 
> > My only concern is that they state that the mufflers are undersized
> from
> > original.
> > 
> > Any advice is much appreciated!!!!
> > 
> > Please keep in mind that I am not a master mechanic and some options
> are
> > more difficult for me to venture into than others.
> > 
> > 
> > Mickey
> > 
> > '68 Cutlass "S" Conv
> > 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 14:59:19 -0500
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@email.mot.com>
Subject: re:  marine accel pump in Q-jet was : Spring fever

No, but the book Rochester Quadrajet covers mods to install the 2GC
accelerator pump in a Q-Jet, increase to 50 cc.

If that is what you are looking for....

Tom

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 15:59:39 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: rod-stroke ratio and cosine loss of horsepower

John Carri correctly noted:

...look at some numbers from what I believe
(for many reasons) is the worst V8 ever made in America - the 400
small-block Chevy....This engine has a rod length of 5.5", and a stroke of
3.75", which means that the cosine that Joe P. mentioned works out to
be 0.341...
__________

Excellent point, John.  I've ragged on the 68-69 long-stroke Olds 400 as a
crappy motor, but this one is even worse from a rod angularity standpoint.  The
long rods of these big blocks (as compared to the Chebby's dinky 5.5" rod -
please, no cracks...) really helps out the angularity and thus the side load.
The long stroke 400 has a 6.7" rod and a 4.25" stroke, yielding a cosine of
0.317.  Even better is the 65-67 short stroke 400, with a 7" rod and 3.98"
stroke, for a cosine of 0.284.  No wonder these motors were such screamers.
Note that since the rod lengths and strokes are common between the late 400 and
the 455 and the early 400 and the 425, the 0.317 to 0.284 comparison applies to
the 455 vs 425 debate as well.  Of course, the small block Olds (any one of
them) has a cosine of 0.282.  I hate to say it, but that 403 looks better all
the time.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 16:01:43 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: rod-stroke ratio and cosine loss of horsepower

<BIG CLIP>
r.
>
>In the discussion above I was trying hard to make a complicated 
>mathematical problem into an easily visualised intuitive one, how did 
>I do?
>
>-John Carri
>'72 Supreme
>'73 RoadRunner
>

Very good John. Could almost picture myself on a chair up against a wall
pretending to be a piston. I also agree the 400 SBC was a bad idea. What
you described along with a poor cooling design, a weak bottom end and thin
cylinder walls turned more than a few of these into scrap metal in a hurry.
Even the HP books say this block sucks and doesn't recommend it for
performance apps. 

Omega Man
'74 Omega S 455

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 15:03:29 -0500
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@email.mot.com>
Subject: Re: Steering gearbox

All 70-81 F-car can use the 82-92 F-Car box, which in 1992 the WS6 Trans AM
is the best box there is.

Look for that one in a boneyard, NOT gonna be dime a dozen!  But may be a
good box, AutoZone wanted like $200 for a rebuilt one....  Must specify WS6
or high po suspension option.

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!



>On Tue, Apr 13, 1999 at 01:55:54AM -0400, Socalolds@aol.com wrote:
>> Phil,
>> You can use a gearbox from a 78-79 trans-am or firebird. 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 17:08:48 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 68 air cleaner color???

On Tue, 13 Apr 1999, Cliff Simpson wrote:
> So is that the same color as a '69 four barrel engine like the 442's should
> be?  Is Mars Red available is spray bombs?

To answer this question and George's earlier one, yes, I painted it
myself. About the only part on the original paint job that was still good
was the painted lettering for the air cleaner replacement element which I
think is silkscreened. I wanted to keep that so I masked it off, sanded
the heck out of it to get all the rust and old paint off, primed, painted
and wet-sanded it (actually only the lid got the wet-sand treatment). The 
paint I got from our friends at Canadian Tire in their Color Match line,
worked fine.

There... now you know my secret.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
 ---- Olds List Admin Instructions found at: http://unsub.tsx.org ----

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 13:15:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Carlisle - When? Suggested logistics?

Definitely NOT too late to make plans.  I just decided to definitely go
as of today!  It'll be great!

Stefan


> At 11:45 AM 4/13/99 -0700, you wrote:
> >When is it? Is it a dumb idea to do plans at this point, if I have
> none?
> >
> >I've thought about going for years...
> >
> >cf
> >
> 
> 

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 16:14:53 -0400
From: "Jason Labay" <jlabay@tdin.com>
Subject: Re: buick wheel for 68 cutlass?

I pulled a Buick 3 spoke wheel just as described here off a 76 Buick Regal.
It as the woodgrain.  I was surprised to see it on a 76.  It fit my 72
Cutlass, now I just have to find a source for the olds horn cap emblem. $100
for the wheel alone is steep.  $50 to $75 max is more like it.

Jason Labay

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 16:06:00 -0400
From: "Jason K. Adcock" <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: rod-stroke ratio and cosine loss of horsepower

> In the discussion above I was trying hard to make a complicated
> mathematical problem into an easily visualised intuitive one, how did
> I do?
>
> -John Carri
> '72 Supreme
> '73 RoadRunner

Whew...you did a great job!  Keep up all these physics discussions, I think
the information brought forth by them is very interesting.  In John's
dissertation (!), it was mentioned that 45% of frictional power losses is
side forces on the pistons.  I didn't know that...it's very interesting.
Now, to be a complete fool and stick *my* humble head in here...

I've heard that a steady RPM and a steady level ground at a steady
temperature (read: highway driving) will result in almost 0 engine wear.
Even on the highway, though, side forces on the piston are present.  Why is
highway driving MUCH better than city driving, in the respect if piston side
forces?  Is it just because the pistons are oiled beyond belief while you're
cruisin' down the highway?

Thanks, guys...

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://members.xoom.com/jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 13:41:15 -0700 (PDT)
From: Gene Hightower <gene@crl.com>
Subject: Body parts for my '71 Delta 88 Royale

I'm looking for a left front fender, hood, core support and loaded
header panel for my 1971 Delta 88 Royale convertible.  Maybe one of
you Olds experts can answer a few questions for me.  Are these parts
different on the Royale compared with the regular Delta 88?  I assumed
that the "Royale" designation was like a trim package or something.

The FAQ also implies that the Delta 88 was basically the same from
1971 through 1976.  Would parts from any of these years work on my
car?

Any help locating these parts in the Los Angeles area (or elsewhere,
if need be) would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

 -- Gene

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 14:57:48 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: rod-stroke ratio and cosine loss of horsepower

John Carri wrote:
> 
> <big snip>
> 
> To see how bad this could be, look at some numbers from what I believe
> (for many reasons) is the worst V8 ever made in America - the 400
> small-block Chevy. This engine has a 4.125" bore, and if one has a
> good cranking pressure - Hughes recommends 185 psi - then the downward
> force on the piston due to this pressure is 2,472 lbs just during
> cranking!  This engine has a rod length of 5.5", and a stroke of
> 3.75", which means that the cosine that Joe P. mentioned works out to
> be 0.341, meaning that 0.341 of the downward force on the piston ends
> up as sideways force against the cylinder walls. This is an appalling
> 843 lbs during cranking!  Think how high it is when the engine is
> actually running.

Now Cliff Simpson sticks his fat yap in:

I admit I'm lost here but isn't the 185 psi at the top of the cylinder while
the maximum loss occurs 1/2 the way down the stroke where the throw is
perpendicular to a line drawn from the wrist pin through the crank centerline? 
If that was true then the maximum wear should be somewhere above the 1/2 point
where the pressure * cosine is at a maximum and the 843 lbs of sideways force
would be less.  OTOH, I would expect that the pressure developed from the
exploding gas would be much higher than 185 psi.

In another message Joe P. mentions that the 403 has even less loss due to side
loading but I believe, without working it out, that the power from the 52 extra
cubes more than makes up for the losses.  I'll find out if I ever meet a 403
that wants to race :)

Just curious about the numbers, this is really interesting stuff,
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 16:12:22 -0500
From: "Michael Kantowski" <mkantowski@mcguireng.com>
Subject: Rear-End swap

Hi List,

I have a pretty general question...

I have a '77 Cutlass with the 350 and I believe the rear-end is going.  I
want to have a good one on the car so I can drive it from Chicago to L.A.
soon.  I have a rear from a yard that is sitting in my back yard.

Question:  What is a reasonable price range I'd expect to pay a shop to
perform the swap?  Also, can anyone recommend a shop in the Chicago area to
                do the work?

P.S.  If everything goes well, I'll be driving out to L.A. in about 3 weeks.
I have located a new body for my engine.  I'll try to sell parts from the
current
         car.

If anyone is in need of parts and lives in the L.A. area, email me and I can
get back to you and let you know the status of my move.  These parts will be
cheap.  The parts I can offer are:

            FENDERS (STRAIGHT, MINOR RUST STARTING ON THE CORNERS BY THE
DOORS)
            HOOD (FINE SHAPE, NO RUST)
            FRONT BUMPER (OK CONDITION, NEEDS SOME TOUCH-UP)
            SOME INTERIOR (ASK IF YOU'RE INTERESTED...DASH IS NOT TOO HOT)

Thanks list,

Mike Kantowski

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 16:06:00 -0400
From: "Jason K. Adcock" <jadcock@vt.edu>
Subject: Re: rod-stroke ratio and cosine loss of horsepower

> In the discussion above I was trying hard to make a complicated
> mathematical problem into an easily visualised intuitive one, how did
> I do?
>
> -John Carri
> '72 Supreme
> '73 RoadRunner

Whew...you did a great job!  Keep up all these physics discussions, I think
the information brought forth by them is very interesting.  In John's
dissertation (!), it was mentioned that 45% of frictional power losses is
side forces on the pistons.  I didn't know that...it's very interesting.
Now, to be a complete fool and stick *my* humble head in here...

I've heard that a steady RPM and a steady level ground at a steady
temperature (read: highway driving) will result in almost 0 engine wear.
Even on the highway, though, side forces on the piston are present.  Why is
highway driving MUCH better than city driving, in the respect if piston side
forces?  Is it just because the pistons are oiled beyond belief while you're
cruisin' down the highway?

Thanks, guys...

Jason K. Adcock
mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
http://members.xoom.com/jadcock

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 15:18:23 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: rod-stroke ratio and cosine loss of horsepower

Sorry, ignore first post, I just remembered that it takes the fuel/air mixture
time to burn and therefore there is no single pressure peak but a complex
pressure curve.  Doh!

I'll shut my yap now,
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 17:28:27 -0400
From: Gene Gatti <jerseydevil@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 68 air cleaner color???

Hi George,
   I have a '68 350 4V motor out of a Cutlass Supreme and the air cleaner
lid and base are red. The metal heat stove pipe doohickey attached to the
bottom of the snorkel is black without any evidence of red overspray.
However the small vacuum hose from the thermac on the snorkel to the
underside of the base has some red overspray on it. I can't say for sure if
it's original or a repaint but I'd put money on it that the color was red
from the factory. I hope this helps,
Gene

At 11:20 AM 4/13/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>I would need precise info on the color of a 68 4bbl 350 air cleaner on a 
>cutlass-s. 
>
>Some people have told me that it should be semi gloss black but the one I 
>have off a 68 c/s seems to be still the original color which is red! Also 
>my 68 olds brochure shows a 350 with a red air cleaner element!
>
>Anybody out there that can give me a 100% answer?
>
>Regards, George
>
>
>--------------------------------------------------------------
>'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
>http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
>--------------------------------------------------------------
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 14:34:48 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Body parts for my '71 Delta 88 Royale

> I'm looking for a left front fender, hood, core support and
> loaded header panel for my 1971 Delta 88 Royale convertible.
> Maybe one of you Olds experts can answer a few questions for me.
> Are these parts different on the Royale compared with the regular
> Delta 88?

I don't think they're different, at least not within the same model 
year, except maybe for trim and badging. The sheet metal should 
exchange between Royale and non-Royale of the same year.

> I assumed that the "Royale" designation was like a trim package
> or something.

I think I'd agree with you there.

> The FAQ also implies that the Delta 88 was basically the
> same from 1971 through 1976. Would parts from any of these
> years work on my car?

No. Taking the fender, for example, my Hollander manual only goes back 
to 1973, but it breaks the years down as 1973 (Hollander #1676), 
1974-75 (#1733), and 1976 (#1967). (There's also a suffix of "A" for 
cornering lamp cutouts, "B" without, in each.) So basically only 
'74-'75 could be a straight swap; the other years are unique. As for 
hoods, those don't interchange between '73-'76 at all; each year 
carries a different interchange number.

From my recollection of what the '71 and '72 versions look like, those 
might interchange, but I'm just guessing. The Hollander book should 
give you a definite answer once you find the volume covering your 
model year.

- -- Andy

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 14:04 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re :steering gearbox

Phil Giannotta wrote:
<snip>
>I learned on the list yesterday that a box from a mid 70s camaro 
>would convert my car to fast ratio steering. I did more research on 
>it today at my friendly auto parts store and found there were two 
>boxes available for  mid 70s camaro , one a fast ratio box and the 
>other the same box that belongs on my car. How do I tell the 
>difference between the two at the junk yard if I decide to go this 
>route?   Also the guy at the parts store said I might develop a 
>serious case of over steer . Should I be concerned?    Thanks in
>advance
- ------------------------------

Phil, I hope you know that that F-body steering box might leave you 
with fast ratio steering but a huge turning radius - you might need 
all 4 lanes of a 4-lane highway to do a U-turn!  F-body cars used a 
longer pitman arm and steering arm than A-bodies, and the steering box 
has built in stops that restrict pitman arm travel.  Depending on the 
year of the F-body gearbox you may also encounter differences in the 
way the power-steering hoses connect to the steering gear - it might 
not match your existing hoses.

As for the "serious case of oversteer", here's one more for the 
"stupid parts clerks" thread.  Understeer and oversteer are decided by 
things like the weight at each end of the car, tire sizes, spring and 
sway-bar rates, etc., and are completely unrelated to the ratio in the 
steering box. What that parts guy meant was that since your steering 
will be quicker the car will be slightly more "twitchy" in response to 
small steering-wheel motions than before. If you are capable of 
driving any 90's car without killing yourself (they all have 
"fast-ratio" steering compared to our old A-bodies), you are capable 
of driving an older A-body with the fast-ratio box!

If you take a look at Global West's excellent website 
(www.globalwest.net) they recommend using fast-ratio steering on even 
the most basic handling package for GM A-bodies.


- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 14:10 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: drilling disk brakes..

Mike Bloomer wrote:
<snip>
>It's not the lug nuts that are supposed to hold the wheel centered.  
>The rims are supposed to fit snugly over the hub and be centered up 
>by that.

Mike, I believe you are right when it comes to factory wheels, but 
aftermarket wheels can be either hub-centric or lug-centric, meaning 
that either the axle hub or the lug-nuts may be used to centre the 
wheels. Hub-centric wheels are generally considered a better design.

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 17:45:06 EDT
From: Zitoj@aol.com
Subject: Subject: '68 Cutlass 'S' Trim Part Needed

I've got "hockey sticks" for both sides.  They came off a 442 are in fairly 
good condition.  I also have most of the other trim from the car available, 
it's a hardtop.
Let me know if you 're interested.

Jim

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 17:50:58 -0400
From: "Kelly McCuller" <kmcculler@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: 73 - 77 GM A crossmember

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0071_01BE85D6.2FCB49E0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I was talking with a guy on the list last week regarding a transmission =
crossmember for a 73 - 77 Cutlass with a TH400 and duals. Unfortunately, =
my hard drive crashed and I lost the email address of whoever it was who =
has this part (plus everything else).=20
=20
The price was fine as we discussed - just want to confirm the =
measurement. Please reply soon so I can enjoy the Florida springtime in =
my Olds before summer starts in about 15 minutes. Thanks!

Kelly McCuller
Pager (800) 759-7243, pin 220-0660
kmcculler@worldnet.att.net


- ------=_NextPart_000_0071_01BE85D6.2FCB49E0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

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<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I was talking with a guy on the list last week =
regarding a=20
transmission crossmember for a 73 - 77 Cutlass with a TH400 and duals.=20
Unfortunately, my hard drive crashed and I lost the email address of =
whoever it=20
was who has this part (plus everything else). </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D2>The price was fine as we =
discussed -=20
just want to confirm the measurement. Please reply soon so I can enjoy =
the=20
Florida <U>springtime</U> in my Olds before summer starts in about 15 =
minutes.=20
Thanks!</FONT></DIV></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><BR>Kelly McCuller<BR>Pager (800) =
759-7243, pin=20
220-0660<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:kmcculler@worldnet.att.net">kmcculler@worldnet.att.net</A>=
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 23:52:13 +0200
From: Trond-Jarle Pedersen <olds69@online.no>
Subject: Re: those 1LE 12" disk brakes..

> I'm beginning to think that yet once again we need someone on this
> list to write up a correct procedure and put it up on the FAQ. I'm
> planning to do this conversion, but I'm thinking of going the whole
> hog with the Global West upper A-arm, and it will take me several
> months to save up the money needed for this rather expensive project.
> I'll try to photograph and document what I do and write up a report
> that can be put on the FAQ, if no one else has done it before then.
> 
> -John Carri
> '72 Supreme
> '73 RoadRunner

well i guess that i could write it pup and take photos sins i will be
doing the last ends of the conversion this weekend (or next (weather
dependable))
(is SPRINGTIME :-)  )
but sins i will be using the camaro 11" disc`s i don't think it would be
as interesting as the 12" 1LE rotors. (short on money right now but the
hotchkis A-arms will be in place)
My question is: there has been talking about 1LE CORVETTE rotors????
my information says part nr:1801035(GM) from 88-92 1LE CAMARO???
teach me..

Trond-Jarle

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 18:46:08 EDT
From: S61starfir@aol.com
Subject: Re: Starfire V8

In a message dated 4/13/99 10:01:49 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Oldsfire@aol.com writes:

<< 
 If I'm not mistaken, that engine was never in a Starfire.  I think it was in 
 some of the little F-85 bodies!!  John    Oldsfire@aol.com
  >>
 Correct, it was called the  'Jetfire'

Everett   OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 18:48:37 EDT
From: S61starfir@aol.com
Subject: Re: Carlisle

In a message dated 4/13/99 10:35:33 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Anyolds4me@aol.com writes:

<< 
 What is the best day to go to Carlisle to look for parts?  How about other 
 cars?  Not sure if they have it broken down by day or not.  I will only be 
 able to get up there on Sat and Sun.  My parents live right on the border of 
 Maryland and Penn., about 15 miles from Carlisle.  Are the chances good on 
 finding parts for a 71 and 72 Cutlass?
  >>
  If your looking for the best stuff you better get there Wed because 
anything good is gone by Friday. There are several vendors there that sell 
Olds Parts

Everett  OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 15:58 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: fast-ratio steering boxes from F-bodies, again...

As everyone on the list now knows, '79-'81 Trans Am steering boxes are 
fast ratio, but have stops that limit travel. A couple of people on 
this list suggested swapping the guts from one of these boxes into a 
regular steering box as a way to get rid of the stops. I don't doubt 
that this can be done, but I for one don't have the courage to get 
inside a power-steering gearbox.

Here's an idea that occurred to me - the Firebird steering boxes have 
stops in them because they use a shorter pitman arm and idler arm, 
correct?  Well, is it possible to just use the longer F-body pitman 
arm and idler arm in our A-bodies along with the F-body steering box, 
and thus keep the fast ratio and the turning radius of the F-body? 
Obviously both F-body and A-body pitman arms will bolt onto the 
steering box, so the question is how about the idler arm? And the 
tapers for mounting to the centre-link, etc?

If this works, it will require the tie-rods to be longer to keep the 
toe setting where it belongs.

Any opinions on whether this is do-able?

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 16:11:23 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: Starfire V8 _did_ exist

There was however a Stafire V8 in 65-66 which was the hot setup at 375 hp
for big cars until the Toro motor came out at 385 hp. Was there a Starfire
V8 available from 61-64 too? 

cf

- -----Original Message-----
From: S61starfir@aol.com [mailto:S61starfir@aol.com]
Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 3:46 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Starfire V8


In a message dated 4/13/99 10:01:49 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Oldsfire@aol.com writes:

<< 
 If I'm not mistaken, that engine was never in a Starfire.  I think it was
in 
 some of the little F-85 bodies!!  John    Oldsfire@aol.com
  >>
 Correct, it was called the  'Jetfire'

Everett   OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 19:24:55 -0400
From: "Kyle Tilbe" <kftilbe@gte.net>
Subject: Re: steering box questions

For some information on gearbox swaps go to Jim's Muscle Car Page and follow
the link for Steering Gear Swap Info.
It looks like you can remove the internals from the faster ratio boxes and
put them in your existing box.  The end cap controls
the internal stops so as long as you leave it on your box your turning
radius will be the same.
http://azonline.com/~jimmy/index.html

- -----Original Message-----
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, April 12, 1999 10:42 PM
Subject: Re: steering box questions


>I have a question... is there any reason the "guts" from a quick ratio
>gear can't be swapped into a conventional gear (one without the stops)?
>I've never torn one of these apart, but it can't be any worse than
>rebuilding a trans.  Anybody got a thought on this - or better yet the
>reference manuals to see if what I'm proposing is possible?  Let me know!
>Todd Daenzer
>'69 rag top - could always use help in the handling department...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 19:36:59 EDT
From: R4C442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Starfire V8 _did_ exist

Absotutely.......pronounced 394 cu.in. for 64 (not so sure about 61-63)
										
		Ron Forsee
										
		65 442-Meister

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 19:59:32 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Re: Carlisle

I will be there on Friday ......



The General

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 20:22:27 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Carlisle - Who's going?

In a message dated 4/13/99 2:38:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
ggilpin@wrallp.com writes:

<< I agree we should take a minute to meet up someplace to greet and shake
 hands. I don't know, maybe like on the main grandstand stage at high-noon
 between the middle two giveaway cars or something. Anybody else up for
 that? Opinions? >>

This is a great idea.  Anyone that has been there should know that spot and 
its easy for new people to find too.  This should be the same spot everyday.  
I plan to be there on Friday.  We all should confirm this by next week.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 20:24:36 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Car Lover

Here?s something from Old Cars Weekly News and Marketplace that I thought the 
group would enjoy.  I?ve made several small changes.

Top 11 signs that you might be a car lover if:

	you have ever had candles or incense that smells like burnt rubber.

	you frequently find yourself dropping everything that you are doing 
at the sound of 	a loud exhaust coming up the street

	you have seriously considered building a small-block-powered lawn 
mower

	you remember people better by what they drive

	you feel that flames go good on anything

	instead of buying a CD of a good thunderstorm or the ocean waves, you 
record a 	tape of the local drag races to help you relax
	
	you wash your car more often than yourself

	you have used the kitchen sink as a parts washer
	
	quality time with the family is going to the local salvage yard for 
the day

	your living room has more car parts than NAPA

	you have more Route 66 memorabilia then Route 66


Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 20:30:15 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: car shipping companies and prices

In a message dated 4/11/99 10:31:43 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu writes:

<< Sorry this is non olds but of common car interest: I need to know how 
 much it is to ship a parts car (2500 lb) that will drive up a truck ramp 
 but not much farther. It does not have to be an enclosured shipping since 
 the car is a parts car.
 
 Distance will be about 1300 miles (LA to PA).
 
 Any input (Experiences, Companies, Prices) greatly appreciated. Sorry for 
 the non olds content. >>

A friend of mine used Horseless Carriage to get a car from Minn to New 
Jersey.  It cost him close to $1,000.  However, it was in an enclosed 
trailer.  He had a very hard time pinning them down as to when they would get 
it.  He was totally at their mercy.  

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 20:53:57 -0400
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: '69 Cutlass Trunk Lid

Hey everybody,
    It's getting warm enough to be thinking about fising the rag top... The 
question that
I've got is do I need to get a trunk lid from a 4 door for my convertible 
(like the
70-72) or do I use one from a 2 door?
Thanks!
Todd Daenzer

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 01:23:09 -0500
From: "Charles A. Dempsey" <cdemps@lsumc.edu>
Subject: Re: Title Search.

dgerow@student.stonehill.edu wrote:

>     My father was looking at a '71 Cutlass today, but there's no title
> to the car.  I guess he (the present owner) bought it that way, never
> registered the car, or did anything for that matter, and then 
> decided to sell it years later.

I've been in the same situation too often.

> We're from Massachusetts where, to the best of my
> knowledge, they stopped doing title searches a few years back.

If you can figure out what state it was last titled in (look at old
repair receipts, any paperwork in or under the seats, gas station door
stickers, license plate, registration, or inspection sticker) you can
buddy up to a police person and get them to run the VIN. This should
tell you who the last registered owner is.

> He
> really wants the Cutlass, but it's no good in MA because 
> they're trying
> to get all the vintage iron off the road.  

Screw them. Title the puppy in another state. There is also a commercial
firm that will title it in Alabama for about $100.00 if need be.

> I know we could register it in New
> Hampshire, which does not require a title, but that's a bit too much
> trouble and kind of shady.

If the car's worth restoring, do it. There's about a 0.05% chance that
it is stolen. What's more likely is that somebody got lazy and someone
else wasn't persistent. I once chased a fellow for 6 months to get him
to apply for a duplicate of a title that he swore was in his safe. I'm
tenacious.

Here's a deal, buy the car and give the guy 25% of the asking price and
have him sign a bill of sale that says he gets the rest when he coughs
up the title (there's nothing like cash to get someone off their duff).
Put a reasonable time limit on it like 4 months. If no title at term
then you title it in NH and let the devil take the hindmost.

Here in the wonderful (hot, wet, sticky) state of Louisiana you can go
to the JP and get paperwork that can then be sent to the State Police
and magically turns into a title after they do a search. If the car
turns out to be stolen (unlikely) and you've got a valid bill of sale,
then you might be out a small amount of cash, but the seller's got the
legal problems.

Charles

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 20:56:36 -0400
From: "Jason Labay" <jlabay@tdin.com>
Subject: sheet metal sources?

What is the best and cheapest source for replacement sheet metal for a 72
Supreme? In particular I need a piece on the right rear fender well that
extends from the lip up 5 inches all the way around.  Thanks

Jason Labay

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 21:11:37 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Title search

Andrew C. Green wrote:

> http://www.carfax.com will search records for the car's VIN that you
> provide. Last time I used them I called their 800 number, read them
> the VIN of the car I was planning to buy and my credit card number (I
> think it was $19.95 at the time), and they faxed me back listings
> showing its history: date of first sale, selling dealer, mileage,
> terms of the purchase (leased), and details of its trade-in. Basically
> it lists all the transactions for that VIN and allows you to spot
> odometer rollbacks, salvage titles and that sort of thing, although it
> doesn't identify owners by name.

We use them at work to run purchased vehicles and questionable trades. 
I can only get information on '81 and newer units.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 21:17:52 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Title search

Andrew C. Green wrote:
 
> Anyway, your problem is really with the state here. I think you need
> to find a contact at the Secretary of State's office who knows the
> procedure for dealing with a lost title. I mean, there must _be_ a
> procedure, otherwise what do they do: send Aunt Martha's '95 Cadillac
> to the crusher because she can't find the title?

DMV's, in all the states I'm sure, issue duplicate titles all the time. 
The problem here is that they have to be applied for by the person whose
name is on the title, and we don't know who that is.  That person could
be deceased for all we know.  Could also be an out of state vehicle. 
And which state?  You can't search VINs in all 50.  PA purges it's
records after 10 years, so if the car was a PA car and hasn't been
registered for 10 years, PA has no record of it, even if it's the
original owner that's applying for the dup.  In that case they want a
copy of the original title.  If you don't have it you're screwed.  I'm
not saying you can't get a title for this car, but it's not gonna be
easy and may not be worth the hassle.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 21:24:24 EDT
From: ELemeh@aol.com
Subject: (no subject)

I HAVE A 68 CUTLASS CONV AND WOULD LIKE TO CHANGE FROM DRUM TO DISC BRAKES 
CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHAT YEAR OLDS TO USE TO MAKE THE CHANGE THANK YOU         
 ELEMEH@AOL.COM

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 21:30:08 -0400
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Jetaway to TH350

> 5)  Your two-speed shifter may or may not have enough slop to allow you to
> manually access all three gears.  What this means is that you may not be
able to
> get the trans into first manually.  This is not a problem for normal
function -
> the trans will work just fine in drive - just be aware of it.  If you have
a
> 68-69, you can get the three speed shift segment for your car (but if you
have a
> column shift, you have to take the steering column apart to change it).
If you
> have an earlier car, you can try to modify the segment with a Dremel, if
you
> want.  An alternative, of course, is an aftermarket shifter.  This also
solves
> problem #2.
>
> Hope this all helps
>
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
My 69 had a two speed shifter and console installed when converted from
column shift. It was originally a TH350 and to be able to manually select
first, I did in fact use the dremel to increase the détente length on the
se;selector plate. This allowed me to select first gear but now the shifter
bottomed out on the console top plate. I solved this by drilling new
mounting holes in the bracket on the floor that the console bolts up to and
moving the whole console back about 1/2".
A nicely made three speed selector lens from Greg Rollin at SuperCars
Unlimited finished off the job.
It looks and works great.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie, Melbourne, FL
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/~mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 21:24:08 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: Starfire V8 _did_ exist

394 345 hp I believe, up until 65 .... 65s got the 425 and 65s and 66s you 
could also get a 
4 speed manual trans.  Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 21:25:26 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: Carlisle - Who's going?

I will be there on Friday...
Hot Rod Harry <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/">HOT ROD HARRY'S 
OLDSMOBILES
</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 21:33:42 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Starfire V8 _did_ exist

R4C442@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Absotutely.......pronounced 394 cu.in. for 64 (not so sure about 61-63)

My book shows a 394 V8 engine was standard for the Starfire in 1961-64
models.  The horsepower was 330 in 1961 and bumped up to 345 in the
other three years. After 1964 it was increased to 425 ci and 370 hp.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 21:36:36 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: '69 Cutlass Trunk Lid

Rebel1 wrote:
> 
> Hey everybody,
>     It's getting warm enough to be thinking about fising the rag top... The 
question that
> I've got is do I need to get a trunk lid from a 4 door for my convertible 
(like the
> 70-72) or do I use one from a 2 door?
> Thanks!
> Todd Daenzer

I would suggest the 4 door trunk as it fits really well because of the
rounded edges next to the top.  The 2 door has a square edge instead,
although I am told you can grind it down to fit if necessary.  I've
never tried it beacuse the 4 door is a bolt on.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 21:55:09 EDT
From: DrkSole96@aol.com
Subject: G-tech

Well, I made on pass with the g-tech this last weekend.  16.7 seconds at 88 
mph.  Not exactly screaming, car is a 73 Cutlass Supreme 2dr, 3.42 posi rear 
end, stock 4bbl motor, hooker headers, 2 1/2" duals, with 2 1/4" tailpipes.  
The motor needs a tune up, and the timing could be improved.  Think a built 
425 will cut a couple of seconds off that time?

Donovan Moser
73 Cutlass Supreme
drksole96@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 21:56:38 -0400
From: Uncle Pete <pteubel@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Carlisle - Who's going?

At 09:25 PM 4/13/99 -0400, you wrote:
>I will be there on Friday...

I'll be there from Thursday to Saturday (driving my '82 Olds, of course).
I check out EVERY vendor spot....no exceptions!

- - Uncle Pete
'51 98 (303)
'82 98 (403 w/shift kit)
'86 Ciera (something far too small)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 21:55:05 -0400
From: "Kelly McCuller" <kmcculler@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Rear-End swap

Is the new rear an exact copy and you're swapping the whole thing, brakes
and all? Shouldn't be more than a couple or 3 hours labor, which is about
$50 or so in Fla. If you're pulling pinion and carrier and such from one and
moving it to the other and putting in new bearings and seals, that could
easily be $350 - 400.

You sure the yard rear is good?

- - Kelly
- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Kantowski <mkantowski@mcguireng.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 5:18 PM
Subject: Rear-End swap


>Hi List,
>
>I have a pretty general question...
>
>I have a '77 Cutlass with the 350 and I believe the rear-end is going.  I
>want to have a good one on the car so I can drive it from Chicago to L.A.
>soon.  I have a rear from a yard that is sitting in my back yard.
>
>Question:  What is a reasonable price range I'd expect to pay a shop to
>perform the swap?  Also, can anyone recommend a shop in the Chicago area to
>                do the work?
>
>P.S.  If everything goes well, I'll be driving out to L.A. in about 3
weeks.
>I have located a new body for my engine.  I'll try to sell parts from the
>current
>         car.
>
>If anyone is in need of parts and lives in the L.A. area, email me and I
can
>get back to you and let you know the status of my move.  These parts will
be
>cheap.  The parts I can offer are:
>
>            FENDERS (STRAIGHT, MINOR RUST STARTING ON THE CORNERS BY THE
>DOORS)
>            HOOD (FINE SHAPE, NO RUST)
>            FRONT BUMPER (OK CONDITION, NEEDS SOME TOUCH-UP)
>            SOME INTERIOR (ASK IF YOU'RE INTERESTED...DASH IS NOT TOO HOT)
>
>Thanks list,
>
>Mike Kantowski
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 20:01:34 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: G-tech

I would like to get one of those G-techs, but I don't have money right now.
Are they cool and do you think if they are worth it?  Do they measure 0-60,
and if so, what did  you get.  I would like to measure 60-0 on my '81
Regency.  Probably 2 miles or so.  Ha Ha.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 22:05:19 -0400
From: "Jason Labay" <jlabay@tdin.com>
Subject: Re: G-tech

I have always found the G-tech to be "optimistic". For instance my 94
Caprice Classic runs 14.2x @ 98 in the 1/4 but the G-tech always pulls a
14.0 to 14.1 @ 99ish.  A 425 should definitely shave that time down :-)

Jason Labay
94 Caprice Classic LT1
80 442 W-30
72 Cutlass Supreme



>Well, I made on pass with the g-tech this last weekend.  16.7 seconds at 88
>mph.  Not exactly screaming, car is a 73 Cutlass Supreme 2dr, 3.42 posi
rear
>end, stock 4bbl motor, hooker headers, 2 1/2" duals, with 2 1/4" tailpipes.
>The motor needs a tune up, and the timing could be improved.  Think a built
>425 will cut a couple of seconds off that time?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 22:12:58 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Dual Exhaust

Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com wrote:

> My only concern is that they state that the mufflers are undersized from
> original.

If undersized means shorter, that's not a problem.  I have Super Turbo
mufflers on my '72 and they are shorter than the standard replacements. 
All you need are front and rear adapters and a few extra clamps.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 22:07:01 EDT
From: DrkSole96@aol.com
Subject: Re: G-tech

In a message dated 4/13/99 9:04:03 PM Central Daylight Time, igor455@home.com 
writes:

<< I would like to get one of those G-techs, but I don't have money right now.
 Are they cool and do you think if they are worth it?  Do they measure 0-60,
 and if so, what did  you get.  I would like to measure 60-0 on my '81
 Regency.  Probably 2 miles or so.  Ha Ha.
 
 
  >>

I think they're worth the money, the hard part is finding a place to test 
them at.  You have to have at least a 1/4mile straight, flat road, with 
little traffic, as it takes a bit of time to zero it out.  It will measure 
1/4 mile times, speeds, 0-60. (mine was in the mid 8 second rate). It also 
measures horsepower, contious and instant G's.  

Donovan Moser
73 Cutlass supreme 
drksole96@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 22:16:18 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Starfire V8

Doug Ahern wrote:
> 
> On Tue, Apr 13, 1999 at 07:55:02AM +0500, Bob Brandys wrote:
> > Does anyone know the original horsepower and torque rating of the
> > turbocharge 215 V-8 in the 62-63 starfire?
> 
> it was 215hp.  one hp per cube.  available in the F-85 series.

Torque was 300 lb.-ft. at 3200 rpm.  And it was standard on the Jetfire
- - not available on any other F85 model.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 22:16:55 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: G-tech

In a message dated 4/13/99 9:58:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
DrkSole96@aol.com writes:

<< Well, I made on pass with the g-tech this last weekend.  16.7 seconds at 
88 
 mph.  Not exactly screaming, car is a 73 Cutlass Supreme 2dr, 3.42 posi rear 
 end, stock 4bbl motor, hooker headers, 2 1/2" duals, with 2 1/4" tailpipes.  
 The motor needs a tune up, and the timing could be improved.   >>
If thats an original motor (350) with all the stuff you have done..set up 
properly you should at least be in the low 15s with the car the way it is...
Hot Rod Harry <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/">HOT ROD HARRY'S 
OLDSMOBILES
</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 22:13:06 EDT
From: DrkSole96@aol.com
Subject: Re: G-tech

In a message dated 4/13/99 9:08:19 PM Central Daylight Time, jlabay@tdin.com 
writes:

<< I have always found the G-tech to be "optimistic". For instance my 94
 Caprice Classic runs 14.2x @ 98 in the 1/4 but the G-tech always pulls a
 14.0 to 14.1 @ 99ish.  A 425 should definitely shave that time down :-)
  >>
Well, this is mentioned in the instructions.  I think it's because of the 
difference in the way that a dragstrip and the g-tech measure times and speed.

Donovan Moser
73 Cutlass Supreme
drksole96@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 22:21:09 EDT
From: DrkSole96@aol.com
Subject: Re: G-tech

In a message dated 4/13/99 9:19:17 PM Central Daylight Time, 
Four42much@aol.com writes:

<< If thats an original motor (350) with all the stuff you have done..set up 
 properly you should at least be in the low 15s with the car the way it is...
 Hot Rod Harry <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/">HOT ROD HARRY'S 
 OLDSMOBILES
 </A>  >>

Well, it was just a quick test, let the tranny shift by itself, didn't stall 
up the converter, and it really needs a carb rebuild.

Donovan Moser
73 Cutlass Supreme
drksole96@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 22:29:02 -0400
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: G-tech

I'm kind of curious - how does th G-Tech know when you have traveled a 1/4 
mile?
Or do you have to mark one off... Not that I've ever done that... ;-)
Todd Daenzer

DrkSole96@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 4/13/99 9:08:19 PM Central Daylight Time, jlabay@tdin.com
> writes:
>
> << I have always found the G-tech to be "optimistic". For instance my 94
>  Caprice Classic runs 14.2x @ 98 in the 1/4 but the G-tech always pulls a
>  14.0 to 14.1 @ 99ish.  A 425 should definitely shave that time down :-)
>   >>
> Well, this is mentioned in the instructions.  I think it's because of the
> difference in the way that a dragstrip and the g-tech measure times and 
speed.
>
> Donovan Moser
> 73 Cutlass Supreme
> drksole96@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 22:25:54 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: [Fwd: Re: blue-gray chapter]

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- --------------5AF67F5561
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Dude!

Did the postman visit you yet?

I got this message from this woman the other day and I can't get my
reply to go through to her.  Says something about not accepting mail
from sender.  Since you're an AOLster, how 'bout trying to get ahold of
her.  Please?  Do it or I'll send the whole chapter a nasty letter about
you.

Thanks,

See ya!

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

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Message-ID: <3705655E.7357@nbn.net>
Date: Fri, 02 Apr 1999 19:48:30 -0500
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Reply-To: plh@nbn.net
Organization: Blue/Gray Chapter of O.C.A.
X-Mailer: Mozilla 3.01C-KIT  (Win95; I)
MIME-Version: 1.0
To: Lynda1962@aol.com
Subject: Re: blue-gray chapter
References: <25000821.2435a845@aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Lynda1962@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Hi Paul,
> 
> My name is Linda, my husband Peter and I have restored our 1970 olds 442, and
> are very interested in getting involved with local car shows.  Could you
> please
> send me information.  We would also like to join the Oldsmobile Club of
> America.
> If you could please e-mail me with the above information.  I will wait for
> your
> reply.
> Sincerely,
> 
> Linda Masucci

Linda,

Thanks for asking about the Chapter.  I have applications here, both for
the Chapter and for OCA.  If you email me with a mailing address I'll
send you an application, as well as a recent issue of our newsletter.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net


- --------------5AF67F5561--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 22:32:06 EDT
From: DrkSole96@aol.com
Subject: Re: G-tech

In a message dated 4/13/99 9:27:36 PM Central Daylight Time, rebel1@raex.com 
writes:

<< I'm kind of curious - how does th G-Tech know when you have traveled a 1/4 
mile?
 Or do you have to mark one off... Not that I've ever done that... ;-)
 Todd Daenzer
  >>

It's got a chip in it that measures time and acceleration, and from that it 
can calculate when a quarter of a mile has past.  
Donovan Moser
73 Cutlass Supreme
DrkSole96@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 22:40:55 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Re: blue-gray chapter]

Paul Hartlieb wrote:
> 
> Dude!

Sorry folks, hit the wrong name in the address book!

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 22:45:55 -0400
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: G-tech

Donovan,
    Thanks! And if you don't mind me asking - how do you like yours?

DrkSole96@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 4/13/99 9:27:36 PM Central Daylight Time, rebel1@raex.com
> writes:
>
> << I'm kind of curious - how does th G-Tech know when you have traveled a 1/4
> mile?
>  Or do you have to mark one off... Not that I've ever done that... ;-)
>  Todd Daenzer
>   >>
>
> It's got a chip in it that measures time and acceleration, and from that it
> can calculate when a quarter of a mile has past.
> Donovan Moser
> 73 Cutlass Supreme
> DrkSole96@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 21:53:54 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: fast-ratio steering boxes from F-bodies, again...

>>Here's an idea that occurred to me - the Firebird steering boxes have 
stops in them because they use a shorter pitman arm and idler arm, 
correct?  Well, is it possible to just use the longer F-body pitman 
arm and idler arm in our A-bodies along with the F-body steering box, 
and thus keep the fast ratio and the turning radius of the F-body? 
Obviously both F-body and A-body pitman arms will bolt onto the 
steering box, so the question is how about the idler arm? And the 
tapers for mounting to the centre-link, etc?<<

Having just replaced the center link on my 68 I can say that 
this is not feasable.  The center link has about 1/2" (or less)
of clearance to the crossmember and a longer pittman arm
would simply move it closer to the crossmember to the point
of contact.  This is in the very center of the crossmember 
where the "skid plate" is.  I do like the idea of swapping 
cases, but I too do not understand enough about them to 
start swapping parts.  But are the stops internal or external?
I don't quite understand how the stops could be eliminated
by changing the case, as opposed to modifying the original.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1904
*********************************

