Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1968


oldsmobile-digest       Thursday, May 20 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1968



Re: ICQ
Re: 455 carb choice (no 800 cfm Q-jet)
Re: CAR ACRONYMS
Re: 67 Cutlass vs. 97  Mustang
adjusting rally pac tach
New Aquisition - Tranny Question
RE: 67 442 carb needed
Re: Olds curiosity obtained
Digest numbers are getting good :)
yard finds
Non-Olds-New computer/thanks IBM
Ball Joint Time?  Opinions, pls
differences in carbs
600 miles and holding
Re: Header insulation wrap
Re: yard finds
Re: yard finds
Re: Ball Joint Time?  Opinions, pls
Re: Freon was Wasps! 
Re: Boring Question!
Re:  Non-Olds-New computer/thanks IBM
Re: Ball Joint Time?  Opinions, pls
Re:-Microsoft?? This is a scam!
Re: 67 Cutlass vs. 97 Mustang
Re: 600 miles and holding
Re: 600 miles and holding
Re: Header insulation wrap
442 Grill & Emblems
Re: Header insulation wrap
Re: ICQ
49-55 olds V8 engine
Re: Ball Joint Time?  Opinions, pls
Re: differences in carbs
Greg (THE HAMMER) Pruett:)
Re: Power Tour
Re: Boring Question!
RE: Shaky Front end
Re: Trunk mat question
Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!
Re: Non-Olds===>Microsoft??
Re: To wax or not to wax?
Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!
Non-Olds - SPAM REPLY - Very effective...
1966 Carb Rochester? F/S in Mich.
Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!
ADMIN: Re: 1966 Carb Rochester? F/S in Mich.
Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!
Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!
Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!
Re: 1966 Carb Rochester? F/S in Mich.
Apology for Non-Olds==>Microsoft
455 water pump pulley
Going to the Track first time, pointers needed

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 20:50:48 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: ICQ

already have it dude.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
To: Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 7:32 PM
Subject: ICQ


> Hi all,
> 
> Have any of you looked into ICQ?  I have a handle and will
> be glad to mutually share it.  It is great for detecting
> friends on the net.....
> 
> Later gators....
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 18:45:32 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: 455 carb choice (no 800 cfm Q-jet)

>The 455 is going to be
> basically stock, with only a few slight modifications. It shall be .030
> over and utilize the stock 4 barrel intake and WZ exhaust manifolds.

I was away for a few days so sorry about being late, but here goes.
My motor is a '76 455, .030 over, about 9.4 CR, WZ manifolds, almost stock
cam and had a stock iron intake (then went to the performer).  Most people
will remember the kind of crap I went through with the carb experiment with
my 455, so here are my findings:

First:
Iron EGR intake (stock '76) with a rebuilt '70 442 Q-jet
Under this set-up, car ran the fastest.

Second:
Went to Performer Intake, and the Q-jet carb.
Car ran stronger in the top end but weaker at the bottom.  Major fuel
starve, no hot-air choke provision, bad carb (the rebuild company for these
Q-jets is crap, hate them)

Third:
Went to Holley 1850, 600 cfm I had lying around.  68 jets and tried all the
secondary springs, then tried other (can't remember), bigger jets.
Under this set-up, the car ran the best (in terms of starts, smooth running,
etc.) but also ran the slowest.  It just did not have the secondary pull of
the Q-jet.

Fourth:
Bought a 750 cfm, manual chock Edelbrock carb and 4" K&N filter.  Stock carb
jetting and all.  Also, blocked off the exhaust crossover on the intake via
gaskets (lets see how long it lasts).
Under this set-up, car runs stronger but not quite like with the Q-jet.  I
got some smaller jets I would like to try out to see if the motor will run
smoother.

Future:
I plan to try my stock 307 Q-jet (jetted up of course) and perhaps converted
to electric chock.  See how that goes.  If I like the Edelbrock more, I will
put it back.

Also, the best fuel economy was with the Q-jet, worst with the Holley.
My advice to you, especially if you stay with a stock intake (recommended
unless you got lots of money), get or rebuild a Q-jet with approximately the
same jetting as the '70 442 had.  I think that it would be the
cheapest/strongest way to go.  I would definitely recommend it.  This is, of
course, my opinion and my experience, so others might tell you different.
If have any questions, shoot.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 18:51:32 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: CAR ACRONYMS

What about another for DODGE:

Dad's Old Dead Garage Experiment

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 20:52:57 EDT
From: QWKCUTLASS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass vs. 97  Mustang

In a message dated 5/19/99 5:29:10 PM EST, olds442@en.com writes:

<<  i have a 74 Olds Cutlass running 11.5 @ 118.  I raced a new Saleen and 
whoop it by a couple car lengths,  and we were on the street with regualr 
everyday tires..if i had slicks or drag radials it would've been a slaughter. 
 i smoked the tires through 2nd and they let go going into third. I didn't 
even have to use my Cheater NOS system. 
 >>
	

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 20:54:21 -0400
From: "Mike McLeod" <mikemcleod@msn.com>
Subject: adjusting rally pac tach

Has anyone on the list ever used the calibration screw on the back of the
tac  for adjustment purposes? How did it work out? Can you tell me how you
did it? My tac is way off in my W-30. Even after calibration, if it is not
100% accurate I would still like to have it close. Thanks

Michael McLeod
70 W-30
97 Aurora

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 21:12:39 -0400
From: Uncle Pete <pteubel@mediaone.net>
Subject: New Aquisition - Tranny Question

Greets to all!

I have a tranny question.  I have an '82 98 with a 403 (was a diesel car),
TH350 w/shift kit.  Just today, I picked up an '81 98 for real short money.
 Runs ok, but is a real stripped model.  I mean, you'd think a 98 would
come standard with power seats, tilt wheel, etc.  Nothing of the sort here!
 BUT, it has a posi rear, HD springs, good sheet metal (well, the hood and
trunk lid is all I need).  The plan is to strip it for parts for my '82.  

Now, it has a 307 with a 4-spd OD tranny.  I assume this tranny will match
up to the 403, but is that advisable?  I vaguely remember some message
threads in the past about that tranny (don't know the model number) being
too weak for a 403's torque.  On one hand, the OD would be nice to help out
in the MPG area, but if its gonna break with the 403's power, it kinda
negates the purpose.

Any comments would be appreciated!


Uncle Pete
'51 98 (w/303)
'81 98 (w/307)
'82 98 (w/403)
'86 Ciera

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 20:46:31 -0500
From: "Walker" <pwalker@megavision.com>
Subject: RE: 67 442 carb needed

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BEA238.AD15ADE0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

  Sorry Mike,

After looking through the few q-jets I have,the closest one is 7027155.


John

- ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BEA238.AD15ADE0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp; Sorry Mike,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>After looking through the few q-jets =
I have,the=20
closest one is 7027155.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>John</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0008_01BEA238.AD15ADE0--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 21:59:24 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: Olds curiosity obtained

On Tue, 18 May 1999, Chris Brown Witt wrote:

> hey, whatÕs this, a FLYWHEEL and crank is cut for pilot bearing?! Who
> the... what the...? What the hell would have a MANUAL TRANS and a *307*,
> not even the "good" 307, but the 7A head version! Shoot. Load her up,

> OK, quick inspection reveals... NO VIN STAMP! Never was one on the usual

I'll wager it's either a marine or industrial motor.   Did the flywheel
look like it'd ever have a pressure plate attached?  Although, this still
doesn't explain the hole for a pilot bearing and compu dist.

> Found a Kent-Moore tool J26252 in the pile also... no '255 carbs though.

Jeeze, wacko motors and tools in the scrap pile.  Where the hell are these
yards....  around here it's a pile of honda motors and some wasted
household appliances.  ;^>

> Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
> Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    -->   bob@tecmark.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 22:06:07 EDT
From: Zitoj@aol.com
Subject: Digest numbers are getting good :)

This is great, the digests are about to reach my favorite numbers....1968 and 
1969!!!!

Jim 
69 442 conv

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 22:13:11 -0400
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: yard finds

I found a '69? Cutlass in a yard today with a 400 2 bbl with C heads. Can
get the heads for $25 each if I want to take the rusted beyond belief
manifold bolts out. I can take the rest of the motor (locked up) for free if
I want it. Is there ANY reason I should desire this motor?
Also the drivers side manifold had an X at the front and the passengers side
had a 4 at the front. Worth anything?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 22:12:48 EDT
From: OLDS44272@aol.com
Subject: Non-Olds-New computer/thanks IBM

           About 4 weeks ago, the mother board burned up on my IBM Aptiva 
computer. The computer was only 13 months old. I called IBM to see if it was 
normal that thier product fails just as the warrenty expires. The first guy i 
talked to said that one year warrenty means only one year.    Not happy with 
that response, i talked to his boss. the second saaid i could file a formal 
complaint with IBM. So they took a statement from me. When they asked what it 
would take to make me happy, i said to make better products and extend my 
warrenty to cover the part failure.  Later that day, i got a fax that 
extended my warrenty till july 31st, 1999!! I took the computer to an 
autherized IBM repair place and now here i am back on line.,,   Meanwhile i 
bought a parts chaser mobile, a 1980 Chevy truck, in-line 6, automatic at the 
city auction for only $400.. The truck is solid for a northern Ohio truck. 
Once you get over the bland green color and the white rims/ bumpers, it 
should serve nice as a parts chaser. ......SCOTT

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 22:22:47 -0400
From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com>
Subject: Ball Joint Time?  Opinions, pls

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01BEA246.1FCB9A40
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

My local shop failed me on state insection; lower ball joints.  This is =
a real high miles car, so it's easy to believe.  They quoted $170 to do =
the thing, parts, labor, alignment, which seems pretty decent.  I'm =
tempted to do it myself, however, at least in part cuz I like to work on =
the ole' southside car (71 Cutlass Conv).

Big time toe-in wear appeared all of a sudden on front tires too, and a =
bit of out-of-round on one side- yes, you guessed it- 2 tires, too.

So, you think I should bring her home and do the joints, bushings, =
springs (missing a few precious weeks of great top-down cruising =
weather), or let them just "do it to it"?
Bob, Covington, VA
robertan@cfw.com

- ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01BEA246.1FCB9A40
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>My local shop failed me on state insection; lower ball =
joints.&nbsp; This=20
is a real high miles car, so it's easy to believe.&nbsp; They quoted =
$170 to do=20
the thing, parts, labor, alignment, which seems pretty decent.&nbsp; I'm =
tempted=20
to do it myself, however, at least in part cuz I like to work on the =
ole'=20
southside car (71 Cutlass Conv).</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Big time toe-in wear appeared all of a sudden on front tires too, =
and a bit=20
of out-of-round on one side- yes, you guessed it- 2 tires, too.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>So, you think I should bring her home and do the joints, bushings, =
springs=20
(missing a few precious weeks of great top-down cruising weather), or =
let them=20
just "do it to it"?</DIV>
<DIV>Bob, Covington, VA<BR><A=20
href=3D"mailto:robertan@cfw.com">robertan@cfw.com</A></DIV></BODY></HTML>=


- ------=_NextPart_000_001F_01BEA246.1FCB9A40--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 22:19:38 -0400
From: "Mike McLeod" <mikemcleod@msn.com>
Subject: differences in carbs

What is the difference between a  Q-jet off a 72 442 and a  Q-jet off a 70
442 W-30? Any and all comments would be  appreciated.

Michael McLeod
70 W-30
97 Aurora

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 21:33:53 -0500 (EST)
From: hurst455@webtv.net (Corey Putnam)
Subject: 600 miles and holding

   I went over the 600 mile mark today on the new engine and was looking
forward to the OCC meet on Saturday but I was on my way to the local
drive-in for a show and lost my oil pressure. The motor used to run 60
lbs cold and about 45 hot, when I pulled into the show I was running
about 8 lbs in gear and around 18 at 45 MPH.
   I`ll start the prosess of droping the pan in the morning. Will there
be an obvious sign that its the oil pump?(who knows, maybe the pump
bolts starting backing out) How will I know for sure that I didn`t spin
a main bearing without droping any caps? I`d like to try to avoid
pulling main caps if at all posible.
  I`m going to try and have it back on the road by Friday evening and
still make it to Milwaukee Saturday morning.

Corey Putnam
75 H/O W-30(my way)
87 Regal w/Olds 455(Mama`s ride)
H/OCA #0915A
OCC #0208
OCA #031264
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 21:36:22 -0500 (CDT)
From: blue442@webtv.net (Jeff Carter)
Subject: Re: Header insulation wrap

That wrap ruined a custom set of paved oval racing (read $$$) headers on
my uncle's car.  I've seen this mentioned in Car Craft or Hot Rod too.
The headers get very brittle and just fall apart.  It can also speed
rusting.  

Be afraid, be very afraid!!!

Jeff Carter

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 21:42:02 -0500 (CDT)
From: blue442@webtv.net (Jeff Carter)
Subject: Re: yard finds

Hey Ed,
I'd check for the nodular 400/455 crank.  Unfortunately I believe the
fastest way to tell is by pulling the pan.  The "N" is near the front
cast into the crank.  Maybe there's an easier way....

Good luck!
Jeff Carter

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 21:50:09 -0500
From: "Walker" <pwalker@megavision.com>
Subject: Re: yard finds

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BEA241.90640300
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

   C heads really arent that bad,as long as they arent cracked.
Where do you live,may be interested.Probably small valve,but they
will still flow well.So they say.

John

pwalker@megavision.com

67 Cutlass 455/TH350

- ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BEA241.90640300
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; C heads really arent =
that bad,as=20
long as they arent cracked.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Where do you live,may be =
interested.Probably=20
small valve,but they</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>will still =
flow well.So they=20
say.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>John</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:pwalker@megavision.com">pwalker@megavision.com</A></FONT><=
/DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>67 Cutlass =
455/TH350</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_001E_01BEA241.90640300--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 23:10:21 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: Ball Joint Time?  Opinions, pls

Andersons wrote:
> 
> My local shop failed me on state insection; lower ball joints.  This
> is a real high miles car, so it's easy to believe.  They quoted $170
> to do the thing, parts, labor, alignment, which seems pretty decent.
>
> So, you think I should bring her home and do the joints, bushings,
> springs (missing a few precious weeks of great top-down cruising
> weather), or let them just "do it to it"?

The ball joints should take you a weekend.  Just go to the nearest
Autozone, slap your Visa on the counter, sign yer name and you get a
loaner ball joint press.  They'll bill you $100 for it which they'll
credit back to your card when you return it.  It's pretty
straighforward;  Just a huge, heavy C-clamp with a selection of sleves
that you use to push the ball joint out.  

Better buy a cheapie "pickle fork" ball joint seperator while you're
there.  And some universal tie rod end grease boots from the "help"
section.  Odds are yours are shot and will split in two when you get the
tie rod ends loose.  Depending on how stuck to the spindles the ball
joint shafts are, you may need to procure a 2 lb hammer from a buddy
while you're at it.  I had one ball joint that my 24oz ball peen hammer
wouldn't budge.  I knew I'd end up paying for all that pond hopping I
used to do on fishing trips. :)  Careful you don't slip and hit the disk
brake dust plates while you're under there whailing on the ball joints.  

Last time I did ball joints I removed the knuckles and propped them up
on some gallon paint cans.  That way I could leave the brake hoses
attatched.  Used the press to pop out the old lower ball joints and
install the new ones.  Upper ball joints unbolt and replacements bolt
in.  If you're upper ball joints are ~really~ old (as in factory
original)  you will have to drill out the factory rivets.  

~Really~ clean up the lower arms where the ball joints mount and check
for any signs of cracking or stress.  Some people even have them
magnafluxed if they're high mileage as the service life on them are only
about 200,000 miles.  The ends have been known to snap off while driving
down the road (Right Chris Fair? :).  Doesn't happen often but it
happens.  Your call.

Probably the best way to do the A-arm bushings is to take the A-arms to
a shop and have it done.  Unless you have acess to a press. 

Springs require a spring compressor for removal and installation.  Might
borrow that from a parts store too, I'm not sure.  

So you're up for inspection this month too?  Mine needs A-arm bushings
to pass inspection as well.  Hoping to do the 12" brake spindle swap
while I'm at it and replace the springs.  200,000+ mile steering box
needs something done with it, and the shocks are getting old.  Glad
uncle Sam finally sent me some money back.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser 
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais
73 98 LS

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 23:12:09 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Freon was Wasps! 

In a message dated 5/19/99 8:59:43 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
JonKrisInc@aol.com writes:

<< He simply took a can of freon (probably too expensive a solution 
 today) instantly froze them, and they cracked like ice on the ground when he 
 stepped on them. >>

I have another good use for freon.  When I had my first apartment the 
landlord had a lock on the thermostat so I couldn?t control the heat.  So 
what I did was take a can of freon and spray it on the thermostat.  It got 
the oil burner running full speed for quite a while and got the apartment 
nice and warm.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 23:15:09 -0400
From: Gene Gatti <jerseydevil@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Boring Question!

>Stock Bore and stroke of a Ford 302 is  4.002 x 3.00 which equals 301.9 which 
>rounds up to 302.
>
>Bore this .030 and you now have a bore of 4.032 and a stroke of 3.00 which 
>equals 306.4 and this rounds down to 306
                       ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^


Well yeah, but if you round UP it comes out to 307 which makes it an
Oldsmobile :-)
Gene

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 23:42:35 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re:  Non-Olds-New computer/thanks IBM

If you bitch loud enough it will get there attention.  GOOD job dude.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <OLDS44272@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 10:12 PM
Subject: Non-Olds-New computer/thanks IBM


>            About 4 weeks ago, the mother board burned up on my IBM Aptiva
> computer. The computer was only 13 months old. I called IBM to see if it
was
> normal that thier product fails just as the warrenty expires. The first
guy i
> talked to said that one year warrenty means only one year.    Not happy
with
> that response, i talked to his boss. the second saaid i could file a
formal
> complaint with IBM. So they took a statement from me. When they asked what
it
> would take to make me happy, i said to make better products and extend my
> warrenty to cover the part failure.  Later that day, i got a fax that
> extended my warrenty till july 31st, 1999!! I took the computer to an
> autherized IBM repair place and now here i am back on line.,,   Meanwhile
i
> bought a parts chaser mobile, a 1980 Chevy truck, in-line 6, automatic at
the
> city auction for only $400.. The truck is solid for a northern Ohio truck.
> Once you get over the bland green color and the white rims/ bumpers, it
> should serve nice as a parts chaser. ......SCOTT
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 23:49:51 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Ball Joint Time?  Opinions, pls

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_005A_01BEA252.49862A60
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

NO way dude!  DO it at home!  The bushings are a bear to replace.  If =
you can get someone to press the bushings in cheap let them.  If you are =
a die hard do it yourself kinda guy,   go for it.  I made a web page =
showing the at home bushing removal if you want to try it.  The ball =
joints are easy if you have the tools.  The Auto Zone here rents tools.  =
I rented the ball joint taker-outer,  and had no trouble with it.  The =
bushings are another job all together.  Feel free to check the web site, =
and decide for your self.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Andersons=20
  To: Olds List=20
  Sent: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 10:22 PM
  Subject: Ball Joint Time? Opinions, pls


  My local shop failed me on state insection; lower ball joints.  This =
is a real high miles car, so it's easy to believe.  They quoted $170 to =
do the thing, parts, labor, alignment, which seems pretty decent.  I'm =
tempted to do it myself, however, at least in part cuz I like to work on =
the ole' southside car (71 Cutlass Conv).

  Big time toe-in wear appeared all of a sudden on front tires too, and =
a bit of out-of-round on one side- yes, you guessed it- 2 tires, too.

  So, you think I should bring her home and do the joints, bushings, =
springs (missing a few precious weeks of great top-down cruising =
weather), or let them just "do it to it"?
  Bob, Covington, VA
  robertan@cfw.com

- ------=_NextPart_000_005A_01BEA252.49862A60
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>NO way dude!&nbsp; DO it at home!&nbsp; The bushings =
are a=20
bear to replace.&nbsp; If you can get someone to press the bushings in =
cheap let=20
them.&nbsp; If you are a die hard do it yourself kinda guy,&nbsp;&nbsp; =
go for=20
it.&nbsp; I made a web page showing the at home bushing removal if you =
want to=20
try it.&nbsp; The ball joints are easy if you have the tools.&nbsp; The =
Auto=20
Zone here rents tools.&nbsp; I rented the ball joint taker-outer,&nbsp; =
and had=20
no trouble with it.&nbsp; The bushings are another job all =
together.&nbsp; Feel=20
free to check the web site, and decide for your self.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A><BR>Steve<BR>North=20
Carolina<BR>ICQ#26466860<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html">http://members.xoo=
m.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html</A></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A href=3D"mailto:robertan@cfw.com" =
title=3Drobertan@cfw.com>Andersons</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A=20
  href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca" =
title=3Doldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>Olds=20
  List</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Wednesday, May 19, 1999 =
10:22=20
  PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Ball Joint Time? =
Opinions,=20
  pls</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV>My local shop failed me on state insection; lower ball =
joints.&nbsp; This=20
  is a real high miles car, so it's easy to believe.&nbsp; They quoted =
$170 to=20
  do the thing, parts, labor, alignment, which seems pretty =
decent.&nbsp; I'm=20
  tempted to do it myself, however, at least in part cuz I like to work =
on the=20
  ole' southside car (71 Cutlass Conv).</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>Big time toe-in wear appeared all of a sudden on front tires too, =
and a=20
  bit of out-of-round on one side- yes, you guessed it- 2 tires, =
too.</DIV>
  <DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV>So, you think I should bring her home and do the joints, =
bushings,=20
  springs (missing a few precious weeks of great top-down cruising =
weather), or=20
  let them just "do it to it"?</DIV>
  <DIV>Bob, Covington, VA<BR><A=20
  =
href=3D"mailto:robertan@cfw.com">robertan@cfw.com</A></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE><=
/BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_005A_01BEA252.49862A60--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 20:55:27 PDT
From: "Richard Nogin" <wickett66@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re:-Microsoft?? This is a scam!

This is a scam.  They cannot track your email!!  Someone just wants to send 
this garbage to as many people as they can.  It is just like the miller 
email.  Please do not post this stuff here.  I get enough of it with my 
other email address's.  Besides could you imagine how much money Microsoft 
would have to shell out.


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 20:59:39 PDT
From: "Richard Nogin" <wickett66@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass vs. 97 Mustang

This is not a stock car.  Saleen Race preps Mustangs.  That would be like 
calling a baldwin motion camaro a factory car.  I am sure that there are a 
few oldsmobiles on this list that are faster.


>
>I just check and that was the Ford Saleen Mustang,
>not the Cobra.
>
>This Mustang has 495 HP, 0 - 60 in 4.6 seconds and
>1/4 mile at 122 mph.  Didn't give time for the 1/4
>though.
>
>This is definitely faster than my 442 and it is
>even faster than a stock 1968 H/O.


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 00:08:05 EDT
From: CChand4644@aol.com
Subject: Re: 600 miles and holding

Corey,
This too has happened to me. 
First time was a cam/lifter failure.

Second time was a spun bearing.

Both times you could easily tell by the amount of metal in the oil. The oil 
was so saturated with metal shavings, you could see it in the light.
So if you pull the pan, check the bearings, oil pump bolts, and find no 
problems, you might want to pull the intake manifold and valley pan to check 
the pan.
Hope your gage is messed up and nothing else.
Chris 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 00:12:35 EDT
From: CChand4644@aol.com
Subject: Re: 600 miles and holding

Pull intake manifold, valley pan and check the CAM!
Sorry,
Chris

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 05:49:24 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <hurstolds@duesouth.net>
Subject: Re: Header insulation wrap

I used it on Hookers for my 71 442.  PAINFUL.  Easy to apply,(only if OFF the
car) but once on, getting a couple of the flange bolts started when bolting em
on...whew!  Anyway, I'm not sure about the underhood heat, since most of the
header is underneath, but it sure takes the tinny sound out of em.  Which I 
like
a lot.  I suppose it does reduce the heat around the headers too.  I've had em 
on
since 1995.  Haven't failed, caused leaks or come apart as yet.  I'm still not
sure about moisture buildup/header rust underneath.  But if you use it, use the
stainless ties.

Mike Rothe

> Has anyone used that insulation wrap that they sell for headers?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 08:00:10 -0400
From: "Robert McCarthy" <robm4@gis.net>
Subject: 442 Grill & Emblems

You wrote:"
According to the Product Selling Manual there should be an emblem on the
trunk.  Not only should there be an emblem on the grille, but the 442s
had a special grille assembly, not shared with other F-85s.  Also says
something about special headlight pods, but I don't know how true that
is."

 I'll have to check on the grill I don't think it had any emblems or holes
for any, but the trunks has OLDSMOBILE written in little letters across the
rear lip, and a Cutlass emblem on the rear facia, lower right hand side,
near the taillight

Thanks, Rob McCarthy
There is no substitute for genuine lack of preparation.
http://www.gis.net/~robm4
mailto:robm4@gis.net
ICQ: 12438878
AIM: Mini 4x

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 08:34:31 EDT
From: Knightvd@aol.com
Subject: Re: Header insulation wrap

As always the list provides a wealth of knowledge and experience.  Thanks for 
all the responses on the subject!

Vince Knight
71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 07:48:24 CDT
From: "Steve Traynor" <dartster@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: ICQ

I would hazard the guess that I actually have the lowest ICQ number that any 
of ya have ever seen..and feel free to use it!

108901
Dartster

'70 Cutlass S Hardtop

Subject: ICQ


 > Hi all,
 >
 > Have any of you looked into ICQ?  I have a handle and will
 > be glad to mutually share it.  It is great for detecting
 > friends on the net.....
 >
 > Later gators....
 >



_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 08:53:22 -0400
From: Mark Cornea <mcornea@ford.com>
Subject: 49-55 olds V8 engine

> Subject:
> Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 13:32:33 -0400
> From: Parker_Dresser@umit.maine.edu (Parker Dresser)
> Organization: University of Maine
> To: contact@drdecal.com
> 
> Hello,
>         I have a 49-55 olds V8 engine.  It is a GM test engine and has never
> been in a car.  I am selling it.  It includes starter, generator, and
> carb.  Could you help me out with this?
> pd


	I received this note last night. ............ If interested, please
respond directly to: 

 	mailto:Parker_Dresser@umit.maine.edu

         ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
               Mark Cornea (Dr. Decal)  OCA# 4903
                             1970 W30 (red)

                      mailto:drdecal@wwnet.net

                    Visit http://www.drdecal.com
        ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 07:57:12 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Ball Joint Time?  Opinions, pls

whats all this press talk the bushings are easy so are the ball joints piece
of cake just knock em out with a hammer after partially collapsing the shell
with a chisel then knock the new ones in should be about an hour job the
ball joints are just as easy the ball joint tool is ok but all you need is a
big hammer when you reinstall the bushings get an inch and a half pipe
nipple and a cap for it and it makes a wonderful punch no presses necessary
by the way I have watched a guy pretzel a control arm trying to press in
bushings with a hydraulic press...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, May 21, 1999 1:10 AM
Subject: Re: Ball Joint Time? Opinions, pls


> Andersons wrote:
> >
> > My local shop failed me on state insection; lower ball joints.  This
> > is a real high miles car, so it's easy to believe.  They quoted $170
> > to do the thing, parts, labor, alignment, which seems pretty decent.
> >
> > So, you think I should bring her home and do the joints, bushings,
> > springs (missing a few precious weeks of great top-down cruising
> > weather), or let them just "do it to it"?
>
> The ball joints should take you a weekend.  Just go to the nearest
> Autozone, slap your Visa on the counter, sign yer name and you get a
> loaner ball joint press.  They'll bill you $100 for it which they'll
> credit back to your card when you return it.  It's pretty
> straighforward;  Just a huge, heavy C-clamp with a selection of sleves
> that you use to push the ball joint out.
>
> Better buy a cheapie "pickle fork" ball joint seperator while you're
> there.  And some universal tie rod end grease boots from the "help"
> section.  Odds are yours are shot and will split in two when you get the
> tie rod ends loose.  Depending on how stuck to the spindles the ball
> joint shafts are, you may need to procure a 2 lb hammer from a buddy
> while you're at it.  I had one ball joint that my 24oz ball peen hammer
> wouldn't budge.  I knew I'd end up paying for all that pond hopping I
> used to do on fishing trips. :)  Careful you don't slip and hit the disk
> brake dust plates while you're under there whailing on the ball joints.
>
> Last time I did ball joints I removed the knuckles and propped them up
> on some gallon paint cans.  That way I could leave the brake hoses
> attatched.  Used the press to pop out the old lower ball joints and
> install the new ones.  Upper ball joints unbolt and replacements bolt
> in.  If you're upper ball joints are ~really~ old (as in factory
> original)  you will have to drill out the factory rivets.
>
> ~Really~ clean up the lower arms where the ball joints mount and check
> for any signs of cracking or stress.  Some people even have them
> magnafluxed if they're high mileage as the service life on them are only
> about 200,000 miles.  The ends have been known to snap off while driving
> down the road (Right Chris Fair? :).  Doesn't happen often but it
> happens.  Your call.
>
> Probably the best way to do the A-arm bushings is to take the A-arms to
> a shop and have it done.  Unless you have acess to a press.
>
> Springs require a spring compressor for removal and installation.  Might
> borrow that from a parts store too, I'm not sure.
>
> So you're up for inspection this month too?  Mine needs A-arm bushings
> to pass inspection as well.  Hoping to do the 12" brake spindle swap
> while I'm at it and replace the springs.  200,000+ mile steering box
> needs something done with it, and the shocks are getting old.  Glad
> uncle Sam finally sent me some money back.
>
> Greg Pruett
> 72 Vista Cruiser
> 67 Cutlass Supreme
> 80 Cutlass Calais
> 73 98 LS
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 09:37:47 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: differences in carbs

Mike McLeod wrote:

> What is the difference between a  Q-jet off a 72 442 and a  Q-jet off a 70
> 442 W-30? Any and all comments would be  appreciated.
>
> Michael McLeod
> 70 W-30
> 97 Aurora

Mike,

For one thing, there are no primary metering rods or power valve in the '70
Q-jet for a 4-speed W-30 (7040256), I'm not sure about the 7040258 used on the
W-30 with an automatic, it might have metering rods.

While we're on the subject, does anyone have the specs on internal orifices
and bleeds for Q-jets.  These are probably what make up the difference, along
with jets and metering rods, between the Q-jets used for different
applications.  Would love to get my hands on these.

Dude

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 09:52:55 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Greg (THE HAMMER) Pruett:)

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01BEA2A6.88B22640
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

>"whats all this press talk the bushings are easy so are the ball joints =
piece
>of cake just knock em out with a hammer after partially collapsing the =
shell
>with a chisel then knock the new ones in should be about an hour job."
I had to laugh at this one.  I have done it this way also.  Works damn =
good too!  However the structure of the controll arms my be compromised =
just a bit.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html

- ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01BEA2A6.88B22640
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&gt;"whats all this press talk the bushings are easy =
so are=20
the ball joints piece<BR>&gt;of cake just knock em out with a hammer =
after=20
partially collapsing the shell<BR>&gt;with a chisel then knock the new =
ones in=20
should be about an hour job."<BR>I had to laugh at this one.&nbsp; I =
have done=20
it this way also.&nbsp; Works damn good too!&nbsp; However the structure =
of the=20
controll arms my be compromised just a bit.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A><BR>Steve<BR>North=20
Carolina<BR>ICQ#26466860<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html">http://members.xoo=
m.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html</A></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01BEA2A6.88B22640--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 09:49:02 EDT
From: Oldsfire@aol.com
Subject: Re: Power Tour

Hey Fred, you going to Irving, in June, to the OCA Nationals??  We are also 
going down!!  If you are going what day and what time you heading out and 
where are you staying!!!    John.  Oldsfire@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 08:35:50 PDT
From: "Richard Nogin" <wickett66@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Boring Question!

Thanks for the answers you have sent.  It looks like I win the bet!


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 10:40:20 -0500
From: "Johnson, Samuel" <SJohnso6@allstate.com>
Subject: RE: Shaky Front end

I do fill it in the pedal when I hit the brakes.  I think I will have to buy
new rotors.  Thanks for all of the help and info I have received.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Mike Bloomer [SMTP:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca]
> Sent:	Wednesday, May 19, 1999 6:07 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca; mbloomer@mindspring.com
> Subject:	Re: Shaky Front end
> 
> >I need help to figure why my front end shakes when I apply the brakes at
> hi
> >speed.  I had the rotors cut and that seem to have solved the problem but
> >now the problem has resurfaced again.  what could have caused this?  Do
> my
> >rotors need cutting again or am I using the wrong brakes?  Please help.
> >
> >Sam Johnson
> 
> 
> Can you feel the brake pedal pulsating when you hit the brakes?  It should
> get more intense the harder you push the pedal.  If this is the case, it's
> in
> your brakes.  As others have suggested look for a warped/too thin rotor as
> the most likely cause.  Also check the caliper mounting.  If it's loose in
> it's
> slides it can cause problems.
> 
> If you don't feel anything in the pedal, or very little, you should look
> at
> the
> suspension:  ball joints, control arm bushings, or anything else that
> could
> let the spindle shift.
> 
> Mike Bloomer
> mbloomer@mindspring.com
> ICQ# 19113713
> http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 10:49:59 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Trunk mat question

Chris;
Have a lot a gravity, darn little time. LOL
Lou

- ----------
> From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Trunk mat question
> Date: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 12:32 PM
> 
> Lou Biggs wrote:
> 
> > I used a hair dryer.
> 
> I used gravity and time.
> 
> Chris

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 11:01:37 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!

Charles;
We did 1 or 2 time trials, and four 1/4 mile runs on the Hemi drag car
without a oil change and any oil breakdown. We usually saved the oil for
the transport hauler. (If we didn't break anything and there was no metal
in it)  It was straight 50W Valvolene Racing Oil.
2 cents
Lou
- ----------
> From: Dempsey, Charles <cdemps@lsumc.edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!
> Date: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 4:47 PM
> 
> "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net> wrote:
> 
> > We did an experiment on my buddies 455 Olds.
> 
> Without considering whether synthetic oil is better than mineral oil,
> there are a couple of problems with this procedure.
> 
> 1. The experimental conditions are not identical, the viscosity of the
> two oils is not the same, and the relief valve and oil filter are two
> (of many) uncontrolled variables.
> 
> 2. Remember that one data point does not constitute a trend.
> 
> Can 12 miles and three launches really cause significant oil break down?
> I'd have bet long odds against it.
> 
> Charles

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 11:03:22 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Non-Olds===>Microsoft??

No you don't anymore, I bought it last evening.
Lou

- ----------
> From: Oldsmobeav@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Non-Olds===>Microsoft??
> Date: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 5:30 PM
> 
> Isnt it enough I own the brooklyn bridge?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 12:17:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: dsenko@UU.NET (Drew Senko)
Subject: Re: To wax or not to wax?

> On vehicles that are not driven on a daily basis in rain or snow, is it
> better to not wax the car or to use hand glaze? Someone told me that wax
> will leave swirl marks in the paint and that with continued waxing the car
> will look worse because the wax will compound itself. They said to use a
> hand glaze such as 3M Imperial Hand Glaze which contains no wax or
> silicone. The hand glaze also protects the clear by leaving a layer of
> glaze that does not build up as wax does. 
> 
> Is this true?
> 
> Pettrix@prodigy.net


Peter,

IMHO, this info in incorrect.  There's a whole slew of products out
there for the surface of your car, and it's sometimes difficult to
know what the differences are.

Wax is applied as a protective layer over the clean painted surface.
Wax is not the product that makes your paint shine and look good.

Polishes and glazes "clean" the paint (after you've washed and dried
the car) in order to prepare it for waxing.

After washing and drying your car, you should examine the condition of
the paint.  Does it feel smooth to the touch?  If it has a decent wax
coating on it, then it should feel smooth.  Does the water bead on it?
again, this is a sign that it has a good coat of wax on it.  If not,
then you should consider applying a layer of wax.

But before you do that, look closely at the paint.  Are there hairline
scratches or swirlmarks?  If so, then you want to address these
problems *before* you wax the car.  This is where glazes and polishes
come into play.  A glaze is typically a very mildly abrasive product
that when used properly should help remove the swirlmarks and light
scratches.  If the scratches are deep, then it is beyond the
ability of the glaze to fix these scratches.

After you are finished with the glaze step, your paint should look as
good as it's going to look.  You may consider a polish at this point,
although in some cases polishes and glazes are about the same thing,
with polishes being even more mild than glazes.

At this point, you should apply a good quality wax to protect that
finish that you just worked so hard to achieve.  You should not be
concerned about wax building up, and I think it is also incorrect to
think that wax is the cause of swirl marks.  As far as buildup goes,
the glaze will have removed any old wax buildup.  By not waxing after
a glaze, you have removed whatever protection your precious paint had,
and left a clean car ripe for paint damage.  The hand glaze DOES NOT
leave any protective layer!  It stripped the previous protective
layer, in preparation for the new wax.

Personally, I use the 3M Imperial Hand Glaze when I feel it is
necessary, and follow it up with Meguiar's wax (I don't remember which
one).  It's a carauba wax in a can (not liquid).

You can learn a whole lot about this subject by checking out the
"HOW-TO" articles on the following website:

http://www.CarCareOnline.com

Also, Meguiar's and Mother's have websites with useful info.  Meguiar's
has some online multimedia clinics, such as how to use orbital buffers.
Mother's has an FAQ and an e-mail link to send questions to their
chemists.

http://www.meguiars.com
http://www.mothers.com

Check them out too.  And wax that car!

 --                    ______________                     _
Drew Senko            / Convertibles \                    |\
dsenko@uu.net         \_____Rule!____/     .__====-_._____|_\______
Vienna, VA, USA                     O      [   ___  |-     |  ___  \
http://members.aol.com/drewinva       o o  =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)
_______________________________________________\_/____________\_/_____

P.S.  Wanna see the car that I wax?  Look at the webpage listed above.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 11:23:58 -0500
From: Wyatt <Wyatt@jobax.net>
Subject: Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!

I have used synthetic oil (Mobil 1 5W-30) in my son's Jr. Dragster since
1995.  It runs on alcohol and tends to dilute the oil heavily when idling due
to the need to run it rich on the bottom end for maximum acceleration at
launch.  We change the oil after every pass and it comes out looking like
milk.  The good news is, the rod bearings don't show wear after a full
season.  The synthetic protects even when loaded with the alcohol.  Other guys
using regular oil have a fair amount of failures while we don't.

The next engine for my Olds will get nothing but synthetic.  I read something
the other day about better ring finishing that eliminates the need
for a break in period.  Now we can run the oil of choice from day one in a new
engine and the rings will seat.

My $.02
Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 12:26:14 -0400
From: Uncle Pete <pteubel@mediaone.net>
Subject: Non-Olds - SPAM REPLY - Very effective...

If anyone is interested, I have drafted a RESPONSE to those
chain-letter/good-luck-totem/annoying SPAM emails that so many people seem
to send without thinking.  Actually, I modified one that I found on the
'net.  It really works.  You won't get those annoying emails from THAT
person again.  Its sort of a gentle reminder that they should THINK before
blindly forwarding messages to others.  If you want a copy, e-mail me
privately.  I think most of you will find it rather amusing.

Uncle Pete
'51 98
'81 98
'82 98
'86 Ciera

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 09:42:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: "R.Strachan" <creature48212@yahoo.com>
Subject: 1966 Carb Rochester? F/S in Mich.

Thought someone might want to see this carb only 2 hours left

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=102412251

_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 11:44:59 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!

Wyatt;
We changed oil on the fuel funny every run, pan was coming off anyway and
the oil was as you said. I was talking about an hi po gasoline engine under
severe use and our experiences only. We never had any oil related problems
with non synthetic. The point was three runs and 12 miles on a 455 is not
enough to cause an oil breakdown on any oil, syn or reg. I shouldn't think.
Lou
- ----------
> From: Wyatt <Wyatt@jobax.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!
> Date: Thursday, May 20, 1999 11:23 AM
> 
> I have used synthetic oil (Mobil 1 5W-30) in my son's Jr. Dragster since
> 1995.  It runs on alcohol and tends to dilute the oil heavily when idling
due
> to the need to run it rich on the bottom end for maximum acceleration at
> launch.  We change the oil after every pass and it comes out looking like
> milk.  The good news is, the rod bearings don't show wear after a full
> season.  The synthetic protects even when loaded with the alcohol.  Other
guys
> using regular oil have a fair amount of failures while we don't.
> 
> The next engine for my Olds will get nothing but synthetic.  I read
something
> the other day about better ring finishing that eliminates the need
> for a break in period.  Now we can run the oil of choice from day one in
a new
> engine and the rings will seat.
> 
> My $.02
> Dave Wyatt
> 70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 13:48:19 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: ADMIN: Re: 1966 Carb Rochester? F/S in Mich.

C'mon guys, we just had this debate! Please don't post messages like this.
Someone here might very well have already bid on it and now stands a
chance of losing it.

No ebay messages unless someone has specifically asked for a part, please.

Greg

On Thu, 20 May 1999, R.Strachan wrote:

> Thought someone might want to see this carb only 2 hours left
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=102412251
> 
> _____________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com
> 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 12:54:07 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!

In a message dated 99-05-19 19:35:21 EDT, you write:

<<  viscosity breakdown with "oil breakdown"; >>

Just want to remind that the company that made the term "viscosity breakdown" 
famous did settle a class action suit for its claims some time ago.

And Karl will stick with SAE 30.

Thank you very much.

(What was that? Someone wanted to trade his 455 for Phantom Menace tix?)

SOM

&KA  <--- Gets even more miles on motor oil by storing old oil in trunk.......

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 12:05:06 -0500
From: Wyatt <Wyatt@jobax.net>
Subject: Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!

Lou Biggs wrote:

> Wyatt;
> We changed oil on the fuel funny every run, pan was coming off anyway and
> the oil was as you said. I was talking about an hi po gasoline engine under
> severe use and our experiences only. We never had any oil related problems
> with non synthetic. The point was three runs and 12 miles on a 455 is not
> enough to cause an oil breakdown on any oil, syn or reg. I shouldn't think.
> Lou

I hear you Lou.  With the soft bearing material that Horstman rod bearings are
made of, I find no wear while others using the same parts and changing regular
oil every round do get significant wear.  I also have a friend who works for
Pac West racing.  They run Mobil 1 in the CART/Indy engines and he claims the
insides look like new after 500 miles.  He is the one that got me started on
synthetic.  I also use Mobil 1 in my van that I pull the trailer with.  When I
bought it with 51 K on it, the dealer had fresh regular 10W-30 in it.  After
towing 25 miles and then some stop and go in town I noticed I had about 15 psi
at idle in gear.  I changed to the synthetic and the next week end I checked
the pressure at the same stop light, I had about 25 psi at idle.  I felt that
was a significant difference and a good indicator of how the oil was holding
up.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 12:07:19 -0500
From: Wyatt <Wyatt@jobax.net>
Subject: Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!

Lou Biggs wrote:

> Wyatt;
> We changed oil on the fuel funny every run, pan was coming off anyway and
> the oil was as you said. I was talking about an hi po gasoline engine under
> severe use and our experiences only. We never had any oil related problems
> with non synthetic. The point was three runs and 12 miles on a 455 is not
> enough to cause an oil breakdown on any oil, syn or reg. I shouldn't think.
> Lou

I hear you Lou.  With the soft bearing material that Horstman rod bearings are
made of, I find no wear while others using the same parts and changing regular
oil every round do get significant wear.  I also have a friend who works for
Pac West racing.  They run Mobil 1 in the CART/Indy engines and he claims the
insides look like new after 500 miles.  He is the one that got me started on
synthetic.  I also use Mobil 1 in my van that I pull the trailer with.  When I
bought it with 51 K on it, the dealer had fresh regular 10W-30 in it.  After
towing 25 miles and then some stop and go in town I noticed I had about 15 psi
at idle in gear.  I changed to the synthetic and the next week end I checked
the pressure at the same stop light, I had about 25 psi at idle.  I felt that
was a significant difference and a good indicator of how the oil was holding
up.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

P.S.
If you go to www.starnews.com you can read about a new vegetable based motor
oil.  With the right mods you could deepfry as you travel ;)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 13:09:30 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1966 Carb Rochester? F/S in Mich.

Rare.

Karl thinks so.
Primary rods that were only available 66-67.

But no choke?
Divorced in 1966 right?

And....cannot seem to see the fuel inlet.

Karl passes here.

But in case someone here is high bidder, the #s for a 1966 330 Qjet are: 
7026254 (std), 7026255 (jetaway), 7041313 (std, service model), 7041311 
(jetaway, service model), all apear to have Hot Idle Compensator.

Now if it were a 425 Qjet........

SOM

&KA   <--- Deleted alla damn Microsoft (urban legend) subject headings after 
looking at initial for 20 secs.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 10:12:05 -0700
From: BC <beastmaster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Apology for Non-Olds==>Microsoft

I must apologize for offending so many on the list, I don't take these
(chain)emails seriously although I do participate by forwarding them only 
becuase
I know that they can travel around the world and they cause no physical harm 
but
they seem to inflick emotional, so for this I apologize.
Now for the Uncle Pete guy who thinks its appropriate to personally write me  
and
swear at me, you have my reply in your email box. Your letter was very
disheartening and I do not enjoy being slandered. I hope no else on this list
feels this is approriate behavior....if you all do maybe "olds" people aren't 
that
cool afterall.
Sincerely,
Bruce Camilli
70 Delta88 Conv
75 Delta88 Royale Conv.
79 Delta88 Royale Hardtop

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 13:48:46 -0400
From: "Lawrence & Martha Van Belle" <vanbelle@mich.com>
Subject: 455 water pump pulley

OK

I am in need of a water pumup pulley for a '74, 455. The one I am rebuilding
did not come
with one, and it seems almost impossible to find.

anyone got taking up space on the bench and will to part with same???


lvb
63 super88, soon to be 455/th400

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 11:58:58 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Going to the Track first time, pointers needed

If it does not rain tomorrow, I plan on going to the track with my '81 Delta
for the first time for one of those Friday night test&tune events.  I just
want to see how fast my car runs.  I bet I will be in for disappointment.
Anyhow, I have never done that before so have no idea what to expect or how
to run.  I think that 4200 RPM is a good shift point.  What about cool downs
and so on.  How do I react at the light.  I want to make sure that I get a
good reaction time so that my car runs as quick as possible.  What about
traction on Radials (compared to street, for example) and so on.  Thanks.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1968
*********************************

