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cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1979


oldsmobile-digest       Wednesday, May 26 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1979



Re: Englishtown = Old Bridge something or other
Re: 'Starflite' emblem
Re: Repair Ineptitude, Chapter 984
Re: '68 Cutlass grille needed
Re: POR-15 / Chassis Coat black
NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR SUSPENSION (SORRY ABOUT NON OLDS)
Re: 1972 Buick 350 into 1985 Olds?
Buick V6--> V8 motor mounts???
Re: 455 Into Vista Cruiser-Manifolds & Valve Covers?
Re: 79 Cutlass A/C
Re: The best Rotors
Re: 455 Into Vista Cruiser-Manifolds & Valve Covers?
Rotors and pads
Re: 1972 Buick 350 into 1985 Olds?
Re: Buick V6--> V8 motor mounts???
Re: 79 Cutlass A/C
Re: 1971 Olds 442 (fwd)
Re: Repair Ineptitude, Chapter 984
Re: 'Starflite' emblem
Re: 455 Into Vista Cruiser-Manifolds & Valve Covers?
Re: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breather)
Re: Buick V6--> V8 motor mounts???
Re: '68 Cutlass grille needed
Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR SUSPENSION (SORRY ABOUT NON OLDS)
new windshield
The best (Disk brakes) Rotors.  Sorry for the misunderstanding
Re: More POR 15
test
Re: TH 400 Converter Balance
Re: TH 400 Converter Balance
Re: Happy99
Re: 79 Cutlass Supreme
455 buildup
70 Cutlass dashboard removal
Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR SUSPENSION (SORRY ABOUT NON OLDS)
turn signal falling off 68 442
Engines out
Re: 455 price 
Re: I need heads for my olds 455
Q-jet page
Re: Repair Ineptitude, Chapter 984 and other venting
brake booster color?/vs plateing?
Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR SUSPENSION (SORRY ABOUT NON OLDS)
Re: Repair Ineptitude, Chapter 984 and other venting
Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR SUSPENSION (SORRY ABOUT NON OLDS)
Master cylinder question
Re: brake booster color?/vs plateing?
Re: Master cylinder question
Re: Master cylinder question
Re: 'Starflite' emblem
Re: 'Starflite' emblem
Re: Master cylinder question
Re: Master cylinder question
Post your Olds adds/links/pics/whatever here
Re: brake pedal on a '59 Olds
Re: Master cylinder question
Re: Master cylinder question
Re: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breather)
Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR SUSPENSION (SORRY ABOUT NON OLDS)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 22:47:50 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Englishtown = Old Bridge something or other

In a message dated 5/25/99 10:36:18 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
costanzo@netcarrier.com writes:

<< What's the actual name of Englishtown.  Old Bridge rAceway or something? >>

It's Old Bridge Township Raceway Park.  Their web site is:
http://www.etownraceway.com/

The Fall Swap Meet and Show is September 24 to 26.  

Oldsmobile Performance Weekend in October 16 and 17.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 22:50:16 -0400
From: "Fred Blumenauer" <blumenau@symbol.com>
Subject: Re: 'Starflite' emblem

Coupeking,

It may not be from a car.  Sounds like it may be from an old Evinrude 
Starflite outboard from the late 50's.

Regards,
Fred Blumenuaer
blumenau@symbol.com

>>> <COUPEKING@aol.com> 05/25/99 08:25PM >>>
Group-
bought a collection of older Olds emblems and in the box was a gold-tone 
script that reads "Starflite'--not Starfire, or Starchief, but Starflite. 
Anybody know what this emblem might be for? Can't seem to track any Olds with 
this moniker, but maybe somebody in list-land has an idea.
TIA
Peter
coupeking

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 22:54:40 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Repair Ineptitude, Chapter 984

In a message dated 5/25/99 12:41:35 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
ab348@chebucto.ns.ca writes:

<< I figure short of suing them the only way I can stop the leaks is from the
 inside, by taking off the interior trim and dropping the headliner at the
 top of the windshield. Not a fun job, but I gotta stop these leaks or I
 won't have a car. Today it's raining quite hard and the headliner is
 actually wet on the inside, something that never happened before. That is
 unacceptable. I cannot believe my luck at shops around here.
 
 Greg Beaulieu   >>

	Greg, I don't want to burst your bubble, but if you plan on trying to 
stop the leaks from the inside with silicone, you are in for a tough job. I 
have a non-factory sunroof in my Cutlass (man I want to kill the idiot that 
mangled this car) that the seal was shot. After 2 whole tubes of black 
silicone, the thing STILL leaks! I went over it twice, very carefully, to 
make sure there were no holes. I obviously didn't get all of them. Now a 
sunroof may be different, due to it being relatively flat, but the upper and 
lower edges of the windshield will have the same problems...water puddling 
and finding a way in. Perhaps letting the car get EXTREMELY dry (not in rain 
for a week, extra warm temperatures) the water thats already there in the way 
of making a good seal with the silicone, will have completely dried up. You 
can't make it any worse, but might as well not have to do it more than once. 
After that first bead of silicone dries, you will not have a fun time 
removing it, nor trying to apply another good, smooth layer. Good luck : )    
Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 21:54:19 -0500
From: Dan Williams <442much@home.com>
Subject: Re: '68 Cutlass grille needed

You will have to find a used one or a NOS piece.  There is nobody
repoing them and the NOS supply is very limited (unlikey the 68 442
grill), so you won't see them in Fusicks, brothers, et all.

- -Dan

Jim Thingwold wrote:
> 
> My same neighbor who has the D-88 is in need of a Cutlass grille for his
> 68.  All we've come across is 442 grilles.  Can anyone suggest
> anything?  My last Fusick's catalog only lists a 442 grille (did I overlook
> something)?
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> "Lisa Madsen" <Lisa@hotglass.com>
> 
> Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile - Home Page
> http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

- -- 
Dan Williams                            442Much@home.com
Marion, IA                             68 442 Convertible

				   (+)------------------------------------(+)
        |  http://www.442.com/williams68.html  | 
       (+)------------------------------------(+)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 22:08:32 -0500
From: Dan Williams <442much@home.com>
Subject: Re: POR-15 / Chassis Coat black

I did use foam brushes when applying the Chassis coat black, and it did
not come out very good at all.  So, today I called the company and they
agreed to send me another can of the Chassis coat.  They did agree that
it was thicker than POR-15, but I should not have had the problems I
did.  They figured maybe I got a can that had been exposed to air and
had already begun to set up.  

The best solution they could come up was to use some 400 grit sandpaper
to remove the old Chassis coat.  I have heard that you can use thinner
or brake fluid on a rag and wipe very gently (and carefully) to remove
runs in the paint and brush marks.  Anybody have any good ideas?

- -Dan

"Reed, Stephen" wrote:
> 
> >Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 22:13:41 -0500
> >From: Dan Williams <442much@home.com>
> >Subject: Re: POR-15 / Chassis Coat black
> 
> >I have used all of the POR-15 paints and found them to work very well,
> >except for the chassis coat black.  Has anybody else used this?  When I
> >painted my frame with it, it went on very thick and did not smooth out,
> >thus leaving brush strokes.  The POR-15 did not do that when applied.
> >It look great with the POR-15 coat, and the chassis coat top coat ruined
> >it.  I'm going to call the folkes at POR-15 and see what they say.
> >Also, I noticed that the POR-15 did not stand up to chipping as
> >advertised, I was able to easily chip it.
> 
> >- -Dan
> 
> Dan,
>         I've used both the regular POR-15 and the Chassis coat black paints.
> When I applied each I used a 3M foam rubber brush on all of my parts.  I had
> my entire undercarriage & frame sandblasted and both came out looking great.
> I applied the POR-15 black first (2 coats) and then another 2 coats of the
> chassis coat black.  Both came out looking great.  I used the foam brushes
> so I wouldn't have the problem you did with application since the POR-15
> seemed pretty thick.
>         I haven't tried whacking any of my sheetmetal with a hammer but I
> did it to a sway bar I glass beaded & painted.  I hit the thing HARD with a
> ball peen hammer, and there was no chipping.  Who knows why it chipped
> easily for you.   I'm a very happy user of POR-15.
> 
> Steve Reed
> Austin, TX

- -- 
Dan Williams                            442Much@home.com
Marion, IA                             68 442 Convertible

				   (+)------------------------------------(+)
        |  http://www.442.com/williams68.html  | 
       (+)------------------------------------(+)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 20:24:43 PDT
From: "scott slater" <slater442w30@hotmail.com>
Subject: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR SUSPENSION (SORRY ABOUT NON 
OLDS)

I have a 73 Chrysler Town and Country wagon and I read where you can raise 
the front suspension by tightning up the torsion bars.  I went under the car 
and the ends were round outside and the inside looked like a really big 
allen wrench fits into the end.  I would like to know if there is a special 
tool for this or if there is a cover over the end bolt I need to remove to 
adjust the suspension.  I really need to fix this so please answer my 
question if you can.  Don,t worry I still love Oldsmobiles but this is my 
stand in until I can find an ass kicking 1970 Vista Cruiser.

Thanks
Scott Slater
78 Cutlass Supreme
70 Cutlass Supreme


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 23:20:38 -0400
From: "John Pajak" <jspajak@us.hsanet.net>
Subject: Re: 1972 Buick 350 into 1985 Olds?

Buick doesn't by any chance use the same mounts as Potiac do they? Or, how
about the 3.8 litre..do they use the same mounts (at least on the block) as
an 8 cylinder Buick. Just some ideas, Dorian


********
Yes! The 3.8 Buick uses the same motor mounts as the 350 Buick. But wait,
there's more! The distance from the motor mount locations to the back of the
block where the transmission bolts to are IDENTICAL between the 2 motors.
So, you can install a 350 Buick by utilizing 3.8 (231) mounts and frame
pads.

John Pajak
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
or
http://drive.to/pajak

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 21:46:37 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Buick V6--> V8 motor mounts???

> Yes! The 3.8 Buick uses the same motor mounts as the 350 Buick. But wait,
> there's more! The distance from the motor mount locations to the back of the
> block where the transmission bolts to are IDENTICAL between the 2 motors.
> So, you can install a 350 Buick by utilizing 3.8 (231) mounts and frame
> pads.

I thought I'd read somewhere these were different, but someone made custom
mounts for it.  Maybe it was the 455.  Maybe I heard wrong.  Can't recall.  So,
I pose the question to all that know.  Can the Buick V6 mounts take on a Buick
455???

I've often considerred it...  but always scared of the results...  Those poor
T-tops won't handle that kind of torque....  :(


- -- 
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://drive.to/Oldsmagnet    See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 23:51:54 EDT
From: Mr6BBL@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 Into Vista Cruiser-Manifolds & Valve Covers?

you would be surprised at what fits ,all of your rwd cars 350-455 say 68-76 
and then 77-79 350-403 will work .why cant you use your 98 manifolds. 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 22:59:47 -0500 (CDT)
From: blue442@webtv.net (Jeff Carter)
Subject: Re: 79 Cutlass A/C

Hey Richard,
A/C lines can get expensive very quickly.  You may save some cash having
them redone at a local hose shop.  My favorite farmers' hose shop will
replace just the rubber parts of the line for about half the cost.  They
use much sturdier crimps and more modern hose than you can get at the
dealer anyway.  They can also reroute ill fitting lines. 

Jeff Carter
68 Olds 442
82 Gran Fury cop car

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 00:00:50 EDT
From: Mr6BBL@aol.com
Subject: Re: The best Rotors

gm is the best after market is going to be thiner in the middleof the contact 
area.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 00:16:28 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: 455 Into Vista Cruiser-Manifolds & Valve Covers?

Mr6BBL@aol.com wrote:
> 
> you would be surprised at what fits ,all of your rwd cars 350-455 say 68-76
> and then 77-79 350-403 will work .why cant you use your 98 manifolds.

The 455 engine is an inch or two wider than the 350.  I wasn't sure if
the A-body 455 manifolds were neccesary.  I thought I might have some
trouble with running new exhaust; I didn't know if the manifolds would
dump too close to the frame or firewall.  I was hoping I could run the
old dual exhaust from the 350 for a few months 'till I get a little more
cash.  Looks like that won't happen but I can pay for new exhaust, just
didn't want to yet.  

Thanks.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser 
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais
73 98 LS

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 00:15:46 EDT
From: Biscayne2d@aol.com
Subject: Rotors and pads

Hello everyone I currently have a brand new pair of front rotors and brake 
pads from a 74 Chevelle. I will sell these cheaply for the best offer + 
shipping I would think they would fit all the cars of that size and year so 
if anyone is interested in them drop me a line thanks all

Paul IN WI

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 00:25:04 EDT
From: Mr6BBL@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1972 Buick 350 into 1985 Olds?

yucky , but ans. is yes. change your frame mounts and use your buick acc,s. 
andgo to it. 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 00:23:02 -0400
From: "John Pajak" <jspajak@us.hsanet.net>
Subject: Re: Buick V6--> V8 motor mounts???

From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Can the Buick V6 mounts take on a Buick 455???


**********
I've heard the Buick 455 mounts are different, based on this fact: The repo
market ofers 455 frame pads for the earlier GS models. No reason why they
couldn't be used to put the big Buford in a Gbody. Drill a few holes if
needed, bolt them in, and voila!

John Pajak (who knows a little about Buicks but still prefers Rocket Power)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 27 May 1999 00:54:26 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: 79 Cutlass A/C

Richard H. Soard wrote:
> 
> A/C Compressor has locked up on my 79 Cutlass Supreme (original owner with
> 115K miles!) and have been told it must be replaced.  Would like to do it
> myself but have no A/C experience.  Can purchase compressor and accumulator
> for about $160 but am told hoses may need replacing as well due to metal
> fragments from compressor sticking to walls of hose.  Also am told I need
> to flush system to remove fragments from other components as well.
> 
> I am a shade tree mechanic and believe I can do this myself but need a
> little guidance and encouragement.  Can anyone help or direct me to some
> specific info.

If you're pretty good at turning wrenches you can probably do this
yourself.  I've replaced an A/C compressor while under the shade tree,
so it's possible.  

First off, a good book is neccesary.  Preferably a factory service
manual.  If you don't own one a good automotive manual from a local
library will work.  Either a dedicated A/C repair book or a general
service manual for the year of your car.  Mitchell's manuals have been
the best in my experience.  Morors and Haynes are pretty good too. 
Chilton's books are either really good or really bad.  Most just don't
go into the detail you need to work on the A/C.  

The compressor's pretty simple, unbolt old and bolt up new.  A new
compressor is your best bet.  To me it's not worth risking the loss of
freon to install a compressor that may fail in a year or two anyway. 
New compressors come with or without the clutch.  You can re-use the old
clutch if you like.  A new one is around $60.

You can probably take the hoses to a good auto A/C shop and get new hose
put on the old fittings, or complete new hoses made.  Last time I
checked I was quoted about $30-$50 per hose, depending on what old
fittings they could re-use and how much new fittings cost.  Had one hose
fixed for about $35.    

You can buy a quart of flushing fluid from a local auto parts store. 
I've bought it at Autozone before, ask for it at the counter.  You pour
it into the part your flushing, let it sit awhile and blow it out with
compressed air.  I flushed my evaporator in the car by pouring some
fluid in, giving it a little blast to push it through, pour some more
in, push it through, etc. untill I was sure I got plenty in it and
distributed evenly.  

I just removed the condenser from the car to flush it since it wasn't
too bad to just pull the radiator and then take it out.  The flushing
fluid goes everywhere when you blow it out.  It turns into a mist then
takes off with the breeze.  Be ready with an old nasty bath towel to try
and keep it from blowing everywhere.  You'll still probably get it all
over the place, I know I did. It will also take a long time to get every
last bit out of your condenser and evaporator.  Get all of out that you
can since it'll thin out compressor oil.  While you have the sytem apart
go ahead and pay the extra bucks to replace any mechanical parts the
system might have that require opening the system to replace.  Stuff
like the variable orifice tube, expansion valve, etc.  More parts that
are not worth taking a gamble on now that freon is so damn expensive.

You need to evacuate the system before you charge it up.  It has to be
vacuumed down to something like 28 inches of vacuum then held there for
at least 10 minuits.     

You can get certified to buy freon online at: www.epatest.com

It's a $20 open book test.  About 30 questions, you get something like 3
hours, it'll probably take you an hour at the most if you read the
manual.  It's also online at that site.  They take Visa.  I got my
certification there and it seems to work.  I can buy freon.  It's about
$19 for 12 ounces, but I can buy it.  

A manifold gauge set would be handy but not completely neccesary.  It's
tough to get a vacuum reading without it unless you do some creative
plumbing.  It's also nice to use to monitor the performance of your
system and diagnose it if neccesary.

Good luck, it's not too difficult to resurrect the air conditioner in an
old car.  The hardest part is worrying that the system doesn't hold and
your $100 worth of freon might evaporate. 

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais
73 98 LS

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 00:47:32 EDT
From: Mr6BBL@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1971 Olds 442 (fwd)

right on , let them wreck some chevys.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 21:53:31 PDT
From: "Ioannis Kouramanis" <kourama@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Repair Ineptitude, Chapter 984

<SNIP>
>have a non-factory sunroof in my Cutlass (man I want to kill the idiot that
>mangled this car) that the seal was shot. After 2 whole tubes of black
<SNIP>

Oh man, I HATE discovering old botched repairs. So far I've had to
re-tap the holes for two of those seat-belt bolts, and I have to
re-tap one of the holes for the steering wheel.

Also, according to the Haynes manual, you have to drill access holes
to remove the power window motors. I was easily able to remove the
passenger-side motor using a small wrench without drilling
anything ...then I got to the driver's side door...ugh! The metal
was all hacked and bent back...some amateur exploratory surgery. :(

Also a handful of chopped wires, looks like someone was too impatient
to track down a short.


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 00:56:39 EDT
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Re: 'Starflite' emblem

Fred-
I thought of Evinrude, but did they make gold plated emblems for an outboard 
motor? Doesn't sound right for the application.
Peter

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 01:04:38 EDT
From: Mr6BBL@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 Into Vista Cruiser-Manifolds & Valve Covers?

manifolids from 455,s are larger ,but if need be 350,s will work 455,s have 
larger ex. outlets and a larger ex. chamber. 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 17:29:39 -0600
From: "Jeff Newman" <newsance@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breather)

Also, the pcv system helps get rid of water and gas in the oil...
- -----Original Message-----
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, May 25, 1999 9:53 AM
Subject: Re: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breather)


>That's what I thought. Thanks. :-)
>
>--- George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu> wrote:
>> 
>> > So, do you need those vents?
>> 
>> You have to vent the crank case. If you don't do so,
>> pressure will build 
>> up and you will have oil leaking everywhere!
>> 
>> Regards, George
>> 
>
>===
>Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
>rockman20@yahoo.com
>1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
>1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
>1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
>(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
>_________________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>

________________________________________________________
NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet.  Shouldn't you?
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 05:46:32 -0400
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Buick V6--> V8 motor mounts???

Yes - the 455 will also bolt to the 3.8 mounts.  That is what we did for my 
friends
'87 Regal.  Using the 3.8 mounts set the 455 a little high in the cradle - but 
we
used a low profile air cleaner to gain the additional hood clearance.  Also a 
neat
bit of trivia - the brackets from your 3.8 will bolt directly to the V-8!
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a Jetaway and 2.73's :-(

Oldsmagnet wrote:

> > Yes! The 3.8 Buick uses the same motor mounts as the 350 Buick. But wait,
> > there's more! The distance from the motor mount locations to the back of 
the
> > block where the transmission bolts to are IDENTICAL between the 2 motors.
> > So, you can install a 350 Buick by utilizing 3.8 (231) mounts and frame
> > pads.
>
> I thought I'd read somewhere these were different, but someone made custom
> mounts for it.  Maybe it was the 455.  Maybe I heard wrong.  Can't recall.  
So,
> I pose the question to all that know.  Can the Buick V6 mounts take on a 
Buick
> 455???
>
> I've often considerred it...  but always scared of the results...  Those poor
> T-tops won't handle that kind of torque....  :(
>
> --
> Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|
> mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
> http://drive.to/Oldsmagnet    See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
> http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
>      "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
> http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
> http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 23:11:11 -0700
From: Jim Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: '68 Cutlass grille needed

Thanks for clearing that up - of course before now I kept seeing '68 
Cutlass' getting parted out right & left and now -----  zippo.


"Lisa Madsen" <Lisa@hotglass.com>

Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile - Home Page
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 07:59:57 EDT
From: Moparrp@aol.com
Subject: Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR SUSPENSION (SORRY ABOUT 
NON OLDS)

scott there is a big bolt on the lower a arm that adjusts the torsion bar, it 
takes a 15/16 " wrench or socket. make sure you lube the threads befeore 
attempting this or you might rip them out. most public libraries have an auto 
repair manual section if you run into troble. if they have never been moved 
use wd-40 and let them soak.gl.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 08:27:41 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: new windshield

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_00A9_01BEA751.9F169740
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

A few weeks ago there was a post asking where to get a new windshield =
from.  Thank you all for the replies.  Jeff at Windshield Magic lined up =
a couple of beauty's for me 'A'.  I picked up two new LOF windshields.  =
One for my 442 and one for Bubba's Chevelle.  The tint at the top was =
perfect,  and they even had the antennas in the glass.  The folks at the =
place where looking at as a bit funny.  No normal people get this =
geeked-up over a windshield.   The best price I could get around here =
was 300-400 dollars each! (for non-LOF glass) We picked up the two for =
less then 300.  Jeff even found a distributor here in North Carolina =
that was close enough for me to drive to.  That is not an easy thing to =
do in North Carolina!!
Thank you again Jeff and listers for your help.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html


- ------=_NextPart_000_00A9_01BEA751.9F169740
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>A few weeks ago there was a post asking where to get =
a new=20
windshield from.&nbsp; Thank you all for the replies.&nbsp; Jeff at =
Windshield=20
Magic lined up a couple of beauty's for me 'A'.&nbsp; I picked up two =
new LOF=20
windshields.&nbsp; One for my 442 and one for Bubba's Chevelle.&nbsp; =
The tint=20
at the top was perfect,&nbsp; and they even had the antennas in the =
glass.&nbsp;=20
The folks at the place where looking at as a bit funny.&nbsp; No normal =
people=20
get this geeked-up over a windshield.&nbsp;&nbsp; The best price I could =
get=20
around here was 300-400 dollars each!&nbsp;(for non-LOF glass) We picked =
up the=20
two for less then 300.&nbsp; Jeff even found a distributor here in North =

Carolina that was close enough for me to drive to.&nbsp; That is not an =
easy=20
thing to do in North Carolina!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Thank you again Jeff and listers for your =
help.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A><BR>Steve<BR>North=20
Carolina<BR>ICQ#26466860<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html">http://members.xoo=
m.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_00A9_01BEA751.9F169740--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 07:26:16 -0500
From: "Johnson, Samuel" <SJohnso6@allstate.com>
Subject: The best (Disk brakes) Rotors.  Sorry for the misunderstanding

Who makes the best (Disk Brakes) rotors for you car.  And what would be the
difference in the best rotor and an average rotor?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 05:44:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: More POR 15

- --- steve harris <meso@pamlico.net> wrote:
> I can't really say for sure on the amount it
> covered, as I wasn't paying
> attention to that.  I am going to re top-coat my
> frame this weekend, so I'll
> let the list know how far a quart will go.
> 
> Steve Reed
> Austin, TX
===========================

I got my POR-15 already yesterday! That's some fast
turn around time considering they said it would take a
week. In the box came my Qt and a pint of POR-15
black. Then I bought 2 Qt's of the primer and the
thinner and the degreaser. I plan on diluting this and
using it in a spray gun. I will let everyone know how
far this covers. I plan on detailing the whole engine
compartment. Up the firewall and up onto the metal
part of the dash. Then I am going to prime it with the
primer and then apply a nice semi-gloss black. I may
also use it on the area where the windshield seals
since there is rust showing up there. (windshields
out) I plan on hopefully having the pint left over.
That I want to use on my Honda. That's where the true
test will be. I want to see if it will keep my rear
quarters from rusting anymore.

Del
(feeling like a kid in a toy store.)
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 08:57:31 EDT
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: test

I havent got any emails from the list in 2 days.  Wondering if I am still on 
it.
										
	Rich

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 08:05:50 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: TH 400 Converter Balance

convertor should be zero balanced (otherwise you wouldnt order one per
transmission you would have to order per the engine) incidently the flywheel
and flexplates on these are zero balanced as well
- ----- Original Message -----
From: BOYD DONALD R <drboyd@srpnet.com>
To: 'Olds List' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 1999 5:43 PM
Subject: TH 400 Converter Balance


> Is the 455 externally balanced?  Meaning, is the torque converter
> specifically "unbalanced" or is it "Zero balanced"?  I'm asking since my
> transmission seems to be in its death throes, and the guy I'm taking it to
> had a real hard time coming up with a properly balanced converter for the
> Torque Flite 727 in my GTX.  I figure it'll be easier on him if it's zero
> balance...
>
> Thanks!
>
> Don Boyd
> 76 Cutlass 455
> Factory Orange Wheels
> Orange Bodym - factory special order paint...
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 08:15:22 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: TH 400 Converter Balance

Don;
All the 727 converters I know of are balanced before installation, meaning
you can swap them between trannys. So I am I saying they are "zero"
balanced using your parlance. We originally used automatic trannys in the
"hemis" when NHRA limited tire size widths. We spun them to 7500 rpm with
no sweat and switched back and forth between high and low stall speed

converters depending on track conditions. 
Lou    
PS I know zero about th400 converters. Can you call the factory? Hopefully
someone on the list has the answer.
- ----------
> From: BOYD DONALD R <drboyd@srpnet.com>
> To: 'Olds List' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: TH 400 Converter Balance

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 08:21:04 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Happy99

Steve;
Just did that yesterday using info from iRiS anti virus which is my on my
system. Appreciate the info.
Lou
- ----------
> From: Steve Traynor <dartster@hotmail.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Happy99

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 09:22:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: The Viking <avar@infinet.com>
Subject: Re: 79 Cutlass Supreme

You may have a serious problem fitting 295/50/15 tires.  This is
especially true if you use aftermarket springs and lower the vehicle.
I am running 255/60/15 DOT slicks and it is very tight. Good luck on your
project.  See the url below for my 79 "455OLDS".  I think I now know this
car like the palm of my hand and can probably answer any of your
questions.  Mid 12's is very possible.

Al Varhus
Columbus, Ohio 
http://www.infinet.com/~avar
http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
  Mid Ohio Chapter #136
  Gem City Rockets  
  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 08:36:52 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: 455 buildup

just a side bar to this discussion

when I got my 455 (several years ago) it came with a 71 custom cruiser wagon
wrapped around it which made for a handy carrying case also provided a lot
of parts that I sold to offset the purchase
the car was purchased from a local shop for the princely sum of 100 dollars
the engine was very clean on the outside the odometer showed 100,000 but
upon disassembly it was discovered that this engine was a rebuilt engine, F
block, G large valve heads, N crank and 8.5:1 pistons after completely
stripping the block it was measured and found to be standard throughout and
after sitting here for several years it is now getting put together for my
442 will let you know how it goes
this is being done as a shoestring engine just for the fun of it I used to
build some fantastic fast shoestring engines just going to see what I can
still do for a little money,

so far the parts alone are 1,000 dollars this included one piston as one of
the originals had the skirt tab broken off, a full competition valve job on
the original 442 C heads ( done by yours truly, Yes I still have my own
machines for this), polished crank, sealed power timing set custom modified
restricted cam bearings, stock 69 442 intake and carb( 800 cfm slightly
modified Q-jet) lunati bracketmaster 2 cam kit (.496/.520, 224,234@.050)
dynomax headers(blackjack) I remember these things costing about 50 bucks a
few years ago now they are 130 mellings hv oil pump( with bypass spring
shimmed to avoid pressure loss, new push rods, and stock style rockers,
the heads have been milled .020, and the rockers will be shimmed,to
compensate just to keep it cheap, this brings the C/R up to 9.28:1 and
desktop dyno says it should be around 404 HP/498TQ

will keep you informed on this as it progresses

> Just curious about a good price for a 455.  My Delmont is screaming for
> another engine and from what I've seen so far, it doesn't make sense to
build
> up the 350.  What should I expect when I head to the junkyard?
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 09:34:54 -0400
From: Tee_Templeton@tivoli.com
Subject: 70 Cutlass dashboard removal

I just bought a 1970 Cutlass convertible.  How do you get the dashboard
off?  I need to figure out why the top vents don't work
and I want to put in a new speaker(s) and a new radio (I'm not going to cut
into anything).   Any advice for speaker placement would be appreciated
(i.e. where do you put them in the back?...or do you?)

Thanks, Tee

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 08:43:19 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR SUSPENSION (SORRY ABOUT 
NON OLDS)

Scott;
Should be a bolt under the lower A frame, 3/4 head, I think, clockwise
raises it. Oh yes, use a tape on the bumper to even it up, plus you have to
roll the car back and forth a few feet because when you raise or lower it
the distance between the front wheels increases or decreases and you get a
false reading till it's moved to compensate. Do it sitting flat on the
ground, not jacked up. 
Lou
- ----------
> From: scott slater <slater442w30@hotmail.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR SUSPENSION (SORRY ABOUT
NON OLDS)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 09:45:44 -0400
From: "Rob Lewis" <fever@planeteer.com>
Subject: turn signal falling off 68 442

Is this an easy fix.
It's just hanging by a thread now.
Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 08:50:57 -0500 (EST)
From: hurst455@webtv.net (Corey Putnam)
Subject: Engines out

   For those that have been following my engine ups and downs, it is
going back this morning. They say they are really interested in finding
the problem.
   When it was on the stand yesterday I shot three rolls of film of some
very interesting work. I hope to have the photos up on my web site by
tomorrow so the list can take a look. 
   I almost hate having them repair it since the first time around was a
hack job. We`ll see what happens I guess. More, as becomes available.
It`s hard to believe it made it 600 miles! 

Corey Putnam
75 H/O W-30(down for awhile)
87 Regal w/Olds 455(Mama`s ride)
H/OCA #0915A
OCC #0208
OCA #031264
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 10:01:05 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: 455 price 

>You also have to see that I was talking about a "running" engine. I 
>recommend that because if you have a shot one you may have the crank and 
>rods or the bore all messed up ... just ask Omega man about his 455 
>search... You are really lucky if your junkjard does not know the details 
>about the blocks and you can score them that cheap...
>
>George



Yea, I tell ya. I was getting tired of telling guys their 455 was really a
350. If you call for an ad get the casting numbers over the phone first. As
far as pricing goes, I can tell you I got a '72 455 that was said to be
running when pulled for $125. I got that one torn down and it is
rebuildable. Then I got a '70 455 and a '75 455 both for $500. The '70 is
supposed to run excellent and the '75 is questionable. I'll take it apart
and see how it looks. It does have a crank that will accept a pilot though.
All the engines are complete with all accessories still mounted. I'd
suggest getting a complete engine because you'll need the pullys and
accessory brackets and stuff. Only the '75 came without a carb. There are
still alot of 455s available from what I've seen. Good luck hunting.

Omega Man
'74 Omega S 455/auto (this year)
'74 Omega 455/4spd (some year)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 10:00:58 EDT
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: I need heads for my olds 455

In a message dated 5/24/99 6:40:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time, GregA80@aol.com 
writes:

<< 
 Hey everyone, I am looking for cylinder heads for my olds 455, its out of a 
 1968 442....I live in Mass, and all my searches are coming up with 
 nothing...I'd greatly appreciate any help anyone could give me....thanks :-)
    Greg
  >>
are you by chance going to the olds nats. in dallas this year?  i will be, 
and i have a set of "C" heads from a 67 big block eng. these are probably the 
best flowing head in cast iron form you can find.    im in okla.   steven, 
w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 09:04:10 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Q-jet page

the person who sent the link to the qjet performance mods page Thanks,  the
fellow who is mentioned on the page Jim Hand I know this guy he used to race
pontiac wagons at KCIR
they wer daily drivers and ran in the low 12s he had two a 61 catalina and a
71 lemans with GTO appearance package, he built them both and his philosophy
is knowledge outdoes money all the time he had miriad cheap tuning tricks I
have saved a magazine article about his wagon (the 71) for a lot of years it
discusses many low buck tuning tricks he used if anyone would like to read
it let me know and I will scan the pages and e-mail them to anyone who wants
it many of the tricks would translate to olds engines too.....KK

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 07:05:20 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Repair Ineptitude, Chapter 984 and other venting

- --- DYeager535@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 5/25/99 12:41:35 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
> ab348@chebucto.ns.ca writes:
> 
> << I figure short of suing them the only way I can stop the leaks is
> from the
>  inside, by taking off the interior trim and dropping the headliner
> at the
>  top of the windshield. Not a fun job, but I gotta stop these leaks
> or I
>  won't have a car. Today it's raining quite hard and the headliner is
>  actually wet on the inside, something that never happened before.
> That is
>  unacceptable. I cannot believe my luck at shops around here.
>  
>  Greg Beaulieu   >>

     Do you have some kind of a warranty from them?  Most reputable
shops guarantee their work for at least 90 days.  If there is a leak
problem, you should be able to bring it back to them and have them fix
it, not to mention replacing the broken retainer clips.  
     I completely understand how you feel, as I have gone through a
bunch of sh*t with my car too.  In fact, I'm STILL trying to get
compensation for the hack job that the body shop did on my car in
September.  My trunk leaks like a sieve, both door windows leak, rust
is coming through on the seams where the quarter panel was welded on,
and I'm still missing about $400 worth of trim/weatherstripping.  This
is happening on work that the shop got over $3500 for, not to mention
that they were reccomended to me by my insurance agent (who supposedly
had 2 cars done by them).  And to top it off, they refuse to fix the
car, and I can't get the car fixed by anybody but them, because I don't
know what brand of paint they used and nobody wants to fix somebody
elses problems anyway(not even a guy that I talked to that specializes
in restoring classics!)  Ok, enough venting from me, good luck with
getting your mess straightened out, and I hope everything works out
well for you.  I've learned from experience that the saying "If you
want something done right, you have to do it yourself..." is VERY true.

Good Luck,
     Stefan
     1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
     70Cutlass@Beer.com
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 10:14:12 EDT
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: brake booster color?/vs plateing?

have been looking into painting (eastwoods) , or replateing my 70 brake 
booster and have a question for the list.  the guy at the plate shop said 
boosters were not cadium plated but were done in yellow chromate.  ???   is 
this right?  eastwoods paint set up is around 33$ and he said he could 
replate mine for 40$.  anyone have any comments on the eastwood paint set up? 
 TIA.    steven, w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 07:17:15 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR SUSPENSION (SORRY ABOUT 
NON OLDS)

>scott there is a big bolt on the lower a arm that adjusts
>the torsion bar, it takes a 15/16 " wrench or socket. make
>sure you lube the threads before attempting this or you
>might rip them out.

Yeee-ha! This brings back memories. I worked for a few years with a 
charitable group fixing donated cars for low-income people to drive. One day 
we got in a '79 Volare, I think it was, being driven by a lady who was, 
shall we say, gravitationally-challenged. In fact I think she was big enough 
to deflect orbiting satellites. Her complaint was that the car was sagging 
on the driver's side, and could we do anything about it?

Biting our tongues mightily and managing to say nothing, we cranked the 
driver's side torsion bar about, oh, 20 repetitions or so with a honking big 
wrench (maybe 60-degree swing each time), asking her to step in periodically 
to check our progress, and reached a point where the car was nicely level 
with her behind the wheel. When she stepped _out_ of it, the front left 
corner would pop upwards as if the car was offering to change its own tire, 
but otherwise it worked pretty well. I have to admit I wish the GM 
suspension was that easy to adjust... :-}

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 07:26:14 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Repair Ineptitude, Chapter 984 and other venting

I'm relieved to see that it's not only me who has the
bad luck! So far nothing major like the body shop hack
job, but I have had transmission problems (been in 4
seperate times since rebuild.....going in again
because it whistles and slips now and then in first)
exhaust problems (was in the shop 3 times and still
isn't to my standards) body problems (was in the shop
for an extra week and a half because of the
icompetance there.....paint flakes off after a year!)
tire problems (simply putting new tires on, they
managed to strip splines on the drums that hold the
studs in! They fixed it by tack welding them
in.....not my standards again, but I just about decked
the one guy so I figured I better leave.) then we have
the carburator rebuild that leaked when I got it home!
(he said that was "normal" for a quad! *LOL* I just
about hit him also but I left and fixed it myself.)
engine block (when they hot tanked it, they ripped out
the filler tube and never gave it back! I had them
search the garbage for it and they did find it. I had
to use some TLC to get it back in after they had
crimped the base and used a monkey wrench to tear it
out!) the only job I have had done that I haven't had
a problem with is the radiator. I had that cleaned and
checked and it actually works! Just my experiences so
far. I have a lot more to discover over time. I'm
starting to run out of "reputable" businesses here in
town though! *LOL*

Del

- --- Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> --- DYeager535@aol.com wrote:
> > In a message dated 5/25/99 12:41:35 PM Pacific
> Daylight Time, 
> > ab348@chebucto.ns.ca writes:
> > 
> > << I figure short of suing them the only way I can
> stop the leaks is
> > from the
> >  inside, by taking off the interior trim and
> dropping the headliner
> > at the
> >  top of the windshield. Not a fun job, but I gotta
> stop these leaks
> > or I
> >  won't have a car. Today it's raining quite hard
> and the headliner is
> >  actually wet on the inside, something that never
> happened before.
> > That is
> >  unacceptable. I cannot believe my luck at shops
> around here.
> >  
> >  Greg Beaulieu   >>
> 
>      Do you have some kind of a warranty from them? 
> Most reputable
> shops guarantee their work for at least 90 days.  If
> there is a leak
> problem, you should be able to bring it back to them
> and have them fix
> it, not to mention replacing the broken retainer
> clips.  
>      I completely understand how you feel, as I have
> gone through a
> bunch of sh*t with my car too.  In fact, I'm STILL
> trying to get
> compensation for the hack job that the body shop did
> on my car in
> September.  My trunk leaks like a sieve, both door
> windows leak, rust
> is coming through on the seams where the quarter
> panel was welded on,
> and I'm still missing about $400 worth of
> trim/weatherstripping.  This
> is happening on work that the shop got over $3500
> for, not to mention
> that they were reccomended to me by my insurance
> agent (who supposedly
> had 2 cars done by them).  And to top it off, they
> refuse to fix the
> car, and I can't get the car fixed by anybody but
> them, because I don't
> know what brand of paint they used and nobody wants
> to fix somebody
> elses problems anyway(not even a guy that I talked
> to that specializes
> in restoring classics!)  Ok, enough venting from me,
> good luck with
> getting your mess straightened out, and I hope
> everything works out
> well for you.  I've learned from experience that the
> saying "If you
> want something done right, you have to do it
> yourself..." is VERY true.
> 
> Good Luck,
>      Stefan
>      1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
>      70Cutlass@Beer.com
>
_________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at
> http://mail.yahoo.com
> 
> 

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 09:27:31 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR SUSPENSION (SORRY ABOUT 
NON OLDS)

Andy;
Send her to weight watchers.
Lou

- ----------
> From: Andrew C. Green <acg_o@hotmail.com>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 07:28:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Master cylinder question

Well, since my POR-15 arrived, the painting of the
engine compartment is around the bend. I have a
question though. Was the master cylinder painted at
one time? How hard would this be to take off/clean/and
get the POR-15 to stick to? 

TIA
Del

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 10:51:22 -0400
From: "Randy Geisel" <Rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: brake booster color?/vs plateing?

> anyone have any comments on the eastwood paint set up?

I was talking to my body/paint guy about this just this past Sunday. He and
his father have a street rod shop and do testing for Eastwoods. Eastwood
gives them new products to try, maybe you've seen a couple of their cars or
his dads red Ford truck on the cover of Eastwoods catalogs. Anyway.......he
told me not to waste my $$$$ on the brake booster  re-"painting" kit. It
doesn't hold up.

That's his opinion, I haven't tried it and I know some on the list have used
it and been happy.

Just a few pennies worth from
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 09:56:03 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Master cylinder question

Del;
master cyn are not usually painted, have to buff them and clear coat. Mark
Hahn sells a product that saves a good deal of work. I am getting some as
soon as I can remember to send him some money.
Lou

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 08:01:19 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Master cylinder question

Thanks for the response Lou.

How do I get a hold of Mark and how much is the
product?

Del

- --- Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net> wrote:
> Del;
> master cyn are not usually painted, have to buff
> them and clear coat. Mark
> Hahn sells a product that saves a good deal of work.
> I am getting some as
> soon as I can remember to send him some money.
> Lou
> 
> 
> 

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 10:06:39 -0500
From: tonwald@eta.k12.mn.us (Tony Waldner)
Subject: Re: 'Starflite' emblem

>Fred-
>I thought of Evinrude, but did they make gold plated emblems for an outboard
>motor? Doesn't sound right for the application.
>Peter


1960 to 64? V-4 50 and 75HP Evinrude outboards used the gold plated
emblems. I had a '60 50 HP with that emblem on the rear of the motor.
I have a '69 115 HP Evinrude Starflite.

Tony

70 442 W-30
70 442 W-30 convert
70 ToroGT W-34
65 Jetstar 88 w/4-speed
84 Hurst/Olds
85 Cutlass Salon 455 Drag Racer

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 11:08:03 EDT
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: Re: 'Starflite' emblem

Tony-
Sounds like that must be the application.
Thanks-
Peter

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 11:13:10 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Master cylinder question

Lou Biggs wrote:

> . I am getting some as
> soon as I can remember to send him some money.
> Lou

Must be the drugs.

Mark

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 10:14:27 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Master cylinder question

Del;
Marks email address is mahahn@fuse.com.
I think it is 14.95. You just rub this stuff on, better then removing the
whole cyn, buffing it with a wire wheel, replacing and bleeding the whole
system. If it starts looking shabby you can do it again Mark says. I am
definitely getting some. I procrastinate to much I guess.
Lou

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 11:34:28 EDT
From: Dshack4@aol.com
Subject: Post your Olds adds/links/pics/whatever here

List,

www.classiccutlass.com

I need everyone to help me get this site going!  The technical reference will 
take me long enough as it is!  The site is only 5 days old, and is definitely 
in its infancy stage.  Haven't even started on the tech stuff yet, but I 
wanted everyone to know it is in the works.  If you email me, please put 
SHACK in the subject line so I am sure to see it!

Thanks

David Shackleton
"Shack"
71 442 W-30
www.classiccutlass.com

P.S.  And no, this was not a site dedicated to Joe.  I could care less about 
who has what and who means what to this list.  I do know that Joe is a 
respectable member of this list and has some killer valuable info.  The 
Classic Cutlass site is for all Olds fans, but in perticular, the big block 
owners.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 10:54:42 -0500
From: cdemps@lsumc.edu (Dempsey, Charles)
Subject: Re: brake pedal on a '59 Olds

Jetaway4sp@aol.com wrote:

> Several things in the power brake unit may have failed....If 
> the hydraulic plunger is sticking you will be burning up your 
> brake shoes and run the risk of the brakes totally fading out.

If the car has a power booster, and it is like my '56 S 88 (Delco
Moraine power brake setup) the pedal is not physically connected to the
booster. That is to say, the master cylinder plunger sits below the
pedal, and when you push the pedal, the back depresses the plunger and
activates the brakes. Pulling the pedal up wouldn't affect the master
cylinder other than to take a load off the plunger. The pedal will
normally return whether or not the plunger remains down. The switch is
mounted on the pedal's pivot, and my S 88 has a good strong return
spring.

Everything you say about the master cylilnder is valid, but if this is a
Delco Moraine or Bendix Treadlevac, I'm betting his return spring has
broken or rusted.

In the case of the fellow who chased his brake light problem for years,
it was likely a weak spring, or a bad or mis-adjusted switch. I had that
problem on a '63 Olds 98. It worked correctly 90% of the time. The other
10% was when you had just made the 100 yard dash across the school
parking lot through a torrential downpour (late as usual) only to look
back and see the brake lights glowing merrily.

Charles

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 11:17:40 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Master cylinder question

Mark;
Mama keeps the checkbook, have to get permission. Ha! Send me your address
again, cleaned up the hard drive and I lost it.
Lou
PS Must be that.
- ----------
> From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Master cylinder question

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 12:23:29 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Master cylinder question

In a message dated 05/26/1999 10:56:51 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
lbiggs@intertek.net writes:

<<  I am getting some as
 soon as I can remember to send him some money. >>

I thought you were only having problems with your back.  Is the mind going 
too. lol

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 12:30:08 -0400
From: Doug Ahern <doug@mail.RATH.PeachNet.EDU>
Subject: Re: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breather)

On Tue, May 25, 1999 at 04:06:28PM -0400, R4C442@aol.com wrote:
> Just to throw in my opinion...the PCV was used not to provide for crankcase 
> ventilation, but to recycle those nasty old vapors. My 65 442 came with both 
> a PCV setup and a breather on the oil add tube. Now really, how many vents 
> does one need to relieve pressure?
> Secondly, my experience with MT covers and their "pop-out' plugs taught me 
> that that the holes were placed in a very precarious spot in that they were 
> directly over a rocker oiling site. Result?....oil blow-by. Be sure to use 
> either tall breathers (ala NASCAR) and/or some sort of stocking filter to 
> prevent this.

by design, the PCV in the valve cover was the "outbound" direction, and
the breather on the oil fill tube was "inbound".    the "inbound" vent
was later moved to the other valve cover.

if the vacuum of the PCV valve is more than the crankcase pressure,
air drawn in through the oil filltube breather.

if blow-by is extreme it will come out the oil filltube vent and dump all
over the intake.  you need a rebuild anyway, at this point.

the PCV systems on those 65 (and 65) were terrible and didn't work well.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 12:38:30 -0400
From: Doug Ahern <doug@mail.RATH.PeachNet.EDU>
Subject: Re: NEED HELP ADJUSTING CHRYSLER TORSION BAR SUSPENSION (SORRY ABOUT 
NON OLDS)

First,  this is an olds list.  your question shouldn't have been posted
here. try the mopar mailing list (http://www.rconcepts.com/beard/mopar/)
there are people there that will be happy to see your post.

second, there is adjustment bolt.  if you adjust it with the weight of
the car on it (i.e. not jacked up), you run the risk of the adjust
nut (inside the lower control arm) striping.  if this happens, that
side of the suspension will collapse down to its lowest position.
it leave it undriveable... you'll have to take your olds to the junkyard.

- --

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1979
*********************************

