Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1931


oldsmobile-digest      Wednesday, April 28 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1931



"69 Cutlass 455ci BB?
RE: buyers everywhere - not in L.A.!
Re: Questions
Re:  Re: Roll Call)1/4mile?)
Re: "69 Cutlass 455ci BB?
Re: Roll Call)1/4mile?)
Re: Roll Call)1/4mile?)
Parts For Sale
Re: "69 Cutlass 455ci BB?
Re: Shock recommendation?
Re: Northern Virginia Olds Show
Re: changing thermostat
Re: Chevy Cutlass Supreme???
Re: [Fwd: Shocks/Security]
Re: Buyers Everywhere
Re: Chevy Cutlass Supreme???
Best tires for 14x7 rally wheels?
Who needs a belly laugh?
Re: Who needs a belly laugh?
Re: Who needs a belly laugh?
RE:Northern Virginia Olds Show
Re: Who needs a belly laugh?
Thanks (suspension estimate
Quincy & '69 update
Re: Thanks (suspension estimate
Mallory Unilite
Re: Roll Call)1/4mile?)
Batmobile (Was Re: Who needs a belly laugh?)
Cigrette Lighter and other tricks.
Re: Who needs a belly laugh?
Re: Northern Virginia Olds Show
Re: Buyers everywhere
Re: Questions
Re: Parts For Sale
Re: Questions
A/C Panel Troubles
Re: Parts For Sale
Cutlass Brakes (fwd)
Re: Who needs a belly laugh?
Re: Shock recommendation?
Ask away
Re: Cigrette Lighter and other tricks.
Re: Cigrette Lighter and other tricks.
Re: Cigrette Lighter and other tricks.
Re: Best tires for 14x7 rally wheels?
Gearless (long)
Re: Cigrette Lighter and other tricks.
Rear Main Seal
Re: Cigrette Lighter and other tricks.
455 for sale
Re: Still Looking for a Nice Driver
Re: Firewall Stamps question

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 11:44:17 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: "69 Cutlass 455ci BB?

Well I finally lifted the VIN from the '69 that now contains Quincy's new
heart. It's not a 442 with VIN# 33679B168059. Is it possible that since this
is not a 442 and I believe the '69 442 was not available with a 455BB but a
400. Could the standard issue Cutlass of that year be had with this BB? So
maybe this is an original engine for this car? Disappointingly the engine
has "E" heads.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ---
"Windows-98 is a 32 bit extension and Graphical shell
for a 16 bit patch to an 8 bit operating system originally
coded for a 4 bit microprocessor, written by a 2 bit
company, that can't stand 1 bit of competition."
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ---

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 10:54:09 -0500
From: Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com
Subject: RE: buyers everywhere - not in L.A.!

My dad lives in the Huntington Beach area and he's the same way....not a
lot of Oldsmobiles....he drives a 69 Lemans Conv.

He tried to join the GTO club and they snubbed their noses at him!!!!
Didn't want anything to do with his car!  What jerks.....he has a fully
restored car!!!

Anyways...he's moving to Dallas and he's going to hang with the
Oldsmobile people (since I have a '68 Cutlass).  His car will be a
little out of place but he is just oozing with excellent information on
what to do and how to do it ......to any car.

I can't imagine oldsmobilers being rude to someone because they don't
have a Hurst/Olds or a 442!!!

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	John Carri [SMTP:jcarri@alesis1.usa.com]
> Sent:	Wednesday, April 28, 1999 2:39 AM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	Re: buyers everywhere - not in L.A.!
> 
> 
> I guess Los Angeles really is a different world. Not a single soul 
> (other than my wife and friends) has made any kind of comment to me 
> regarding my '72 Supreme, much less wanted to buy it. Around here 
> unless you own a gigantic, lumbering, underpowered SUV or else a
> BMW 7-series or Mercedes S-class no one pays attention to your 
> vehicle.  Fortunately I don't own my car for anyone else's admiration,
> 
> but because I enjoy driving it.
> 
> A while ago there was a post about every fifth car on the road being 
> an Olds, another thing that's not true around L.A.; my guess is that 
> it's more like every 50th car here. I just took a look at the parking 
> lot by my office, must be 100 cars there, not ONE Olds to be seen. 
> There are enough Honda's to make a person puke, though.
> 
> My '73 RoadRunner has got a few comments over the years, though no 
> offers to buy; with the primer paint job, hood bulge, and aggressive 
> styling that drips testosterone, a few folks have asked me "what kind 
> of car is that?". 
> 
> My officemate has a '64 El Camino, and he is besieged with offers to 
> buy every time he goes near a drive-thu.  I think this identifies the 
> problem; in LA the only kinds of cars that are consired cool are 
> expensive foreign toys and old Chevies.
> 
> Keeps the prices of Oldsmobiles down, wonderful!
> 
> -John Carri
> '72 Supreme
> '73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 8:53 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: Questions

Mark <greenmm@earthlink.net> wrote:

>2 questions:
>
>1) Can someone explain what is meant by 10 bol and 12 bolt?  It is in
>reference to rear-ends.
>
>2) Is there a way to determine rear-end ratio of a non-posi rear-end
>without actually counting the gears? (Opening the cover and such)
>People have mentioned turning one wheel and counting revolutions.  
>Does this actually work?
_____________________________________________________

QWKCUTLASS@aol.com replied:

>1. yes, and the 12 is a bigger stronger rear end
>2. turning the tire gives you a close guess
_____________________________________________________

Actually turning one wheel and counting turns gives you an answer that 
is HALF of the correct answer. This is because of the way a 
differential works when one wheel is stopped. Here is the way to get a 
fairly accurate answer with a non-posi rear:


with a NON POSI rear:
1) Jack up one rear wheel
2) Put chalk reference marks on the tire and wheelwell so you can tell 
   when the wheel comes back to the starting point

3) Ditto on driveshaft and part of chassis near driveshaft
4) Rotate wheel and driveshaft until all four marks line up or come
   close to lining up. Count # of turns of both wheel and driveshaft
   while doing this.
5) Divide (# driveshaft rotations/ # wheel rotations)
6) DOUBLE the answer in step 5 to get the rear-end ratio.


with a POSI rear, 
1) Jack up BOTH rear wheels
steps 2, 3, 4, 5 are the same as before; omit step 6, the answer you 
got in step 5 is the rearend ratio.


Whew, reading through this feels like trying to figure out my 
tax-return forms all over again.

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 12:00:38 EDT
From: RPTW32@aol.com
Subject: Re:  Re: Roll Call)1/4mile?)

Shane,

Agree  with other in that you need to dump the Holley mechanical pump and go 
with the Holley "BLUE" electric and regulate to 6-7 psi.  The Holley "red" or 
street pump is pre set at 7 psi and will not supply enough at WOT for BB. I 
personally have had two of the Holley mechanicals break on me (at the base 
where it comes off the block) plus I don't think they are really ment for 
high RPM usage.
Since the motor pulls hard in first two gears then problem would seem to 
indicate the in 3rd you've created problem in that fuel supply will not keep 
up with demand and has not recouped from bowls draining and being fed fast 
enough for what motor is calling for. A 900 cfm carb drinks alot.  I have a 
.030 455 with bigger cam and running
a BG 1030 cfm carb ran best of 11.80 @ 114.7 mph in street trim.
Have 4.10 gears with 28" tall tire going thu traps at 5900 which is my shift 
points in 1&2 gears. 60' time also around 1.70-72. With a 29" tire and 3.91 
gears you're not gonna get too much over 5000 rpms at traps which is leaving 
power on the table. 
Suggest you try the electric pump w/o mechanical and see if you can 
borrow 26-27" tall slicks and see if that doesn't wake things up for ya.  
Afterthought also is what size fuel line from tank to pump/carb.
If it's 5/16 dia then this may be contributing also to lack of fuel supply at 
top end. Shld have min. 3/8 line. from tank to pump and from pump to 
regulator/carb.

good luck. 
Rob Thomas
69 442

see our club web page for addtl info at:
members.aol.com/wmachines/site6.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 10:10:39 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: "69 Cutlass 455ci BB?

gjcouse wrote:
> 
> Well I finally lifted the VIN from the '69 that now contains Quincy's new
> heart. It's not a 442 with VIN# 33679B168059. Is it possible that since this
> is not a 442 and I believe the '69 442 was not available with a 455BB but a
> 400. Could the standard issue Cutlass of that year be had with this BB? 

Only a Hurst Olds would have a 455 in an A-Body.  GM claimed to be trying to
slow down the musclecar wars when it dictated that no A-Body (Chevelle,
Cutlass/442, GTO, Skylark) would get a motor with more than 400 cubes.  In 1969
the largest motors were; Chevelle-396, Cutlass/442-400, GTO-400, Skylark-400. 
Only cars that were not completed by GM were supposed to be allowed to have
bigger motors (Yenkos, Hursts, etc.).  Of course the rules was bent and maybe
even broken but not on a large scale.  In 1970 GM dropped this policy and the
largest engines were;  Chevelle-454, Cutlass/442-455, GTO-455, Skylark-455.

> maybe this is an original engine for this car? Disappointingly the engine
> has "E" heads.

Have you checked for a F0-F4 on the back of the block?  Maybe it's a F0
engine.  With all the toys it has on it I wouldn't be surprised if it was a
F0-F2.

It's a 68-70 455 which isn't all that bad :)
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 12:41:44 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: Roll Call)1/4mile?)

I think you should leave the cam alone and concentrate on the fuel pressure 
area....you should be running the Holley blue pump with a filter before the 
pump also and reset your float level in the Holley carb....hopefully you have 
3/8th fuel line or better and not the original 5/16th....check your plugs 
after you run and most likely you will have to richen her up with bigger jets 
too...
talk to you soon....Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 12:46:09 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: Roll Call)1/4mile?)

Read another comment on your prob and saw that you had 3.90s with 29 tall 
slicks...that slick is way to big....it would be easier to go to a 26 in tall 
slick and run with that if your not having traction problems....my brothers 
65 cutlass 425 has 4.10s and 26 in tall slicks and has no traction problems 
and finishes the quarter at 108 at 12.60 seconds...thats with a 67 308 cam , 
headers and thats it...talk to you soon,
Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 12:52:23 -0400
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Parts For Sale

I broke the crank in the 350 and I'm going to do the 455 thing. Won't be
needing these parts anymore. If interested drop me an e-mail privately.
Prices negotiable as usual. Shipping extra.


MSD 6A Box, Brand New, never installed, $100  (cost $125)

The following parts all have appr. 1,000 miles on them. Installed last
March/April.

Edelbrock Performer RPM intake, Part # 7111, $140, (cost $190)
Edelbrock 1407 Carb, 750 cfm, w/jet&rod kit & gasket kit, $200 (cost $265 )
Th350 trans, shift kit installed, just drop it in and go! $150 (miles
unknown)
B&M 3000 Stall Converter, pt# 20402 , $150 (cost $198)
Comp 280H cam w/lifters, $75 ( cost $120)
7a Heads, valve job 1K ago, w/Comp double springs, Magnum Rocker kit,
Poly-Locks, $500 ( cost $700) Not ported  Will sell for $200 w/original
stock components.

Thanks All,
Randy

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 13:08:26 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: "69 Cutlass 455ci BB?

...It's not a 442 with VIN# 33679B168059. Is it possible that since this
is not a 442 and I believe the '69 442 was not available with a 455BB but a
400. Could the standard issue Cutlass of that year be had with this BB? So
maybe this is an original engine for this car? Disappointingly the engine
has "E" heads...
______

Well, clearly it's not a 442, and 455s weren't available in a 69 A-body except
in the H/O (which actually would have a 442 VIN).  In 1969 the big block (400)
was only available in the 442 and the Vista Cruiser.  The E heads, if original
on that motor, indicate that the motor is a 70 anyway.  Check the VIN
derivative.  A 69 motor would have a VIN derivative starting with 39, while a 
70
motor would have a VIN derivative starting with 30.  Which intake does the 
motor
have (assuming it's a factory cast iron part)?  A divorced choke would indicate
a 69-earlier intake, while an integral choke would be a 70-up intake.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 13:57:41 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Shock recommendation?

In a message dated 99-04-27 22:31:30 EDT, you write:

<< Can some of you pass on some suggestions for shocks...  >>

The best shock Karl knows of is to creep up on a sleeping roomate and shout:

"What're you still doing here? You shoulda been at work an hour ago!"

And of course, variations of that are also just as effective.

Oh.
Did you mean shock-absorbers?

Oh.
Well SOM has a set of Monroe Gas-Matics strapped on.
Cannot really complain at all about them (except a shock mount bolt did 
break).
Stable even with a rear end in the trunk.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 14:26:30 -0400
From: Jeff Mullenix <muxx@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Northern Virginia Olds Show

At 11:20 AM 4/28/1999 -0400, rmoriarty@blairinc.com wrote:
>

C&M Classic Parts will be there


>
>The Capitol City Rockets
>Spring Dust-Off
>Car Show and Swap Meet
>
>10:00am to 3:00pm Sunday May 2,1999
>
>At Stohlman Oldsmobile
>200 South Pickett Street
>Alexandria, VA
>
>This is not a judged show. It is open to _all_ Oldsmobiles, projects to
trailer
>queens. There will be food and a D.J.. Swap meet spaces are available.
Contact
>Jim Stohlman at 703-751-9100 to reserve your space.
>
>
>
>So, who from the list is going to be there?
>
>Ray
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 13:18:07 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: changing thermostat

Hi Mike!

> temp gage). When driving down the highway the gage gets to around the half
> way point or there abouts. It worries me a little to see the gage get above
> the halfway point, especially since the air temps have only been in the
> seventies. This brings me to my questions. I would like to change my
> thermostat. Is 165 degree thermostat a good choice?

You really should think about it, if this is a good idea. Therefore a 
short note what the thermostat really does:

The thermostat is a "binary" device which means it is either open or 
closed. It will help to bring the engine to operating temperature quick. 
The thermostat stays closed and keeps the engine coolant to the small 
circulation (excluding the radiator) to let the engine heat up quick. 
Once the coolant temperature reaches the thermostat temp (185 deg in your 
case) it will open and switch to the big cooling circulation including 
the radiator.
You can already see that installing a thermostat with a lower temperature 
just allows you to pick the opening point to the big circulation. It has 
nothing to do with the final temperature the engine reaches since that is 
over 200 deg. anyway. The only time the thermostat influences this is if 
it is broken and will not open but then your engine would run hot hot 
after 10 minutes the latest. 

Feel free to change your thermostat and fix the thread. I have heard from 
several people that they prefer low temp thermostats on significantly 
rebored engines and if yours is 60 over I would eventually switch to a 
lower temp thermostat. You will not get a grip on the slightly high 
temperature that way though. 

The only thing I could think of doing is changing the fan clutch. That is 
easy to do and may be (part of) the problem. 

Also I would get myself an aftermarket temperature gauge and install it 
(not permanently) but to control the reading of the stock gauge. You will 
get an idea if your car really runs slightly too hot. You could compare 
the temp from the aftermarket gauge to the temps of the engines of the 
listers with a similar setup. This will give you some confidence.

> try to reinstall it. What is a good way to fix the threads if they a
> stripped?
As someone else already mentioned: Helicoil, available in every decent 
parts store. Just follow the info on the package it comes complete, you 
will not need any extra tools. Cost is arount 30 dollars. They work great 
on aluminium and will make the repaired thread even stronger then the 
original. 

Hope this helps. George

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 12:12:37 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Chevy Cutlass Supreme???

I just wrote the guy a note pointing out that the car is an Olds. :^)

Stefan 
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
70Cutlass@Beer.com

- --- George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu> wrote:
> 
> I thought this is funny... George
> 
> Car: 1971 Chevy Cutlass Supreme, 91K miles, $4,900, Lincoln, NE
> 
> For the full ad, go to:
> http://classifieds2000.com/cgi-cls/ad.exe?P1+C14+R577572
> 
> 
> 

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 15:13:59 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: [Fwd: Shocks/Security]

In a message dated 99-04-27 20:22:15 EDT, you write:

<< 1) Without going overboard, what kind of shocks would you recommend for a 
resto that's as close to original as possible. 'As interested in what would 
perform best as what may originally have come with the car...
 
 2) When this baby's done, it's going to be my prized possession and
 worth a bunch to me.  What kind of theft deterrent devices do you guys
 use? >>

Orig-type shock avail from the likes of Fusick's and mebbe Year One.
They will be more expensive than modern shocks that should have something 
available for your application.

The best theft deterrent is to leave a ticking bomb in the drivers seat.

Seriously?
There have been posts about trim stolen off car.
How is that prevented?
The only thing to prevent your car from being taken by anyone is to station a 
policeman atop it.
Any good repo-man/tow truck can make off with it if need be.
(don't people suck?)

Falling short of that a kill switch in an unusual location....
 (such as the cigarrette lighter!)
(((yes credit belongs to the original poster of that one!)))
is the best solution.

Karl hears that there was a sensationalism-based TV show like COPS that 
showed a repo-guy spray a "The Club" (not to be confused with the "door 
club") with Liq Nitrogen (or summat else cold) and then shatter the lock on 
it to drive the car away.

The key to theft-proofing an older car is being smarter than the average puke.

For example; it should be possible to rig a proximity switch to the 
environmental controls such that the only way to start the car is with the 
heater switch on.

Just because the externals are cherry does not mean that the imprtant 
internals have to be.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 12:16:10 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Buyers Everywhere

  When people ask me, I just tell them that if they offer me $10,000
for it I won't turn it down.  I figure, if someone wants to give me 10
grand for my regular run of the mill Cutlass 'S', they can have it, and
then I can buy myself a nice W car. :^)

Stefan
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
70Cutlass@Beer.com
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 14:25:47 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Chevy Cutlass Supreme???

LOL!

Can you imagine owning a car not knowing what brand it is? Maybe this is 
a good deal, maybe the person got it from grandma and just wants to get 
rid of it? I would check it out if it would be in a 300 mile radius from 
me. 

George

On Wed, 28 Apr 1999, Stefan Gadecki wrote:

> I just wrote the guy a note pointing out that the car is an Olds. :^)
> 
> Stefan 
> 1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
> 70Cutlass@Beer.com
> 
> --- George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu> wrote:
> > 
> > I thought this is funny... George
> > 
> > Car: 1971 Chevy Cutlass Supreme, 91K miles, $4,900, Lincoln, NE
> > 
> > For the full ad, go to:
> > http://classifieds2000.com/cgi-cls/ad.exe?P1+C14+R577572
> > 
> > 
> > 
> 
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 14:57:28 -0500
From: "Greg" <zimmermangm@email.msn.com>
Subject: Best tires for 14x7 rally wheels?

I've been running Goodyear Eagle ST 225/70R14's with good results.  I
switched to Eagle #1's in 245/60R14 and got a HUGE increase in traction, the
only problem is that they have yellow letters so I have them mounted
blackwall out.

It's time for a new set and I want to get back to raised white letters.  BFG
makes Radial T/A's, and Dunlop makes their GT qualifier "T"  (which is speed
rated 6mph faster than the others), all in 245/60R14.

Anyone run these brands?  I'd like some input as to which ones to buy.

- -greg

(someday I'll be able to afford 16" wheels and tires....)
1971 cutlass supreme convertable.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 16:08:48 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Who needs a belly laugh?

Since today seems to be a bit slacking on the Olds technical stuff I assume
that where everyone is the weather is nice and the Olds is running. Here's
a couple on the ligher side I found while "working".


http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=97089792

This one has a good description
http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=96567650

Omega Man

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 16:16:57 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Who needs a belly laugh?

Sorry for the non-Olds content, but I was thumbing through a Kit Car magazine
recently and stumbled upon a kit to build a replica of the Batmobile from the 
TV
series (the Barris-built Lincoln Futura-based Batmobile, not the one from the
movies).  Pretty cool.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 14:34:27 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Who needs a belly laugh?

Padavano.Joe@orbital.com wrote:
> 
> Sorry for the non-Olds content, but I was thumbing through a Kit Car magazine
> recently and stumbled upon a kit to build a replica of the Batmobile from 
the TV
> series (the Barris-built Lincoln Futura-based Batmobile, not the one from the
> movies).  Pretty cool.

So what did they use for the flame thrower on the back?  

<Olds content on>
I'd like to have fuel injectors just before the trumpets but the rear-entry
fuel tank would seem to preclude this.
<Olds off>
- -- 

Cliff "dual flaming trumpets on a dark road" Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 16:46:53 -0400
From: "Brad Nicholson" <brad442@mdo.net>
Subject: RE:Northern Virginia Olds Show

I'll be there,
1987 442
Brad Nicholson
brad442@mdo.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 16:44:31 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Who needs a belly laugh?

So what did they use for the flame thrower on the back?...
________

Uh, that's not a flame thrower, it's the exhaust from the car's turbine power
plant.  The kit car, by the way, has the simulated exhaust on it.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 17:16:46 -0400
From: "Mike McLeod" <mikemcleod@msn.com>
Subject: Thanks (suspension estimate

I want to thank all of the members that have helped me with my questions. It
sure is nice to have people to talk to about our cars. It makes me feel more
at ease dealing with my projects.
I had and estimate today to get my suspension redone on my 70 W-30 by a
local suspension company (thats all they do). It is going to run around
$1,200. It includes:
Replacing the center link
Replacing the inner tie rod end
Replacing all bushings front and back ( upper and lowers)
Something about a flange joint?
Alignment
All new coils (Moog for 70 442's)
Front and rear shocks
What do you all think? Are the Moog coils ok? He said they only had a
listing for the 442 coils. Were the 442's and W-30's the same coils? What
about the price? Are they in the ballpark?
They put my car on a ramp and looked it over real good. All the guys in the
shop gave it a good looking over. When the mechanic pulled it out another
was watching him and they both had smiles on their faces. Makes you feel
good to own a OLDS.  :-)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 17:26:47 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Quincy & '69 update

Just a rambling update;

This being my first solidly built car in, well forever, (I'm 44 mid-life
thing I guess), I want to make all the right choices up-front. I have the
option of P/U this questioned/verified '69 Cutlass that has a 455 sitting in
it's nose. Front clip off, dissembled and stored. The engine has "0" road
miles on a rebuild by a local race engine builder, (I interviewed this
engine at the builders location last Summer. Should have got it then). The
builder is without reproach in this area as to work quality.  So I
empathetically want this motor! The engine was rebuilt 3 years ago, running
break-in on a stand, than sealed tight (dry summer months, no humidity
trapped) and stored. Another person, (seller at moment), Bought the whole
project (car + engine) P/U motor from builder and dropped in the '69 nose.
Now engine being sealed 3 years as in no upper lube left, tells me "He fired
the motor and backfired but was real loud, cool man woke neiborhood". Not
the sharpest brick in a building's face, I doubt he pre-lubed the top end
before this fire-up. I know he didn't as when asked, got your basic "Doh"
attitude. I haven't verified through builder (am trying) as to all the
components within this rebuild. Do know of Forged pistons when discussing
this motor with him last year. Should have grabbed it than at $2,800 but
funds were short. It's got an Offy Port-O-Sonic on it that takes square bore
carb. (need help in choosing the correct carb if you would like to follow
and help me choose). Got the $ online as of next week to start the finishing
stages of Quincy. The '69 complete with this engine will cost $3,500. I
Gotta look at this as I'm getting the engine at $3,000. and $500. worth of
project car or partout, NA fall project. Is a rolling shell car less rear
bumper (have, but not seen yet) with what apears to be a complete good black
bucket leather interior not vinyl as should be for this year. With some
loving care and new carpet this interior has potential. I will be going
custom Recaro buckets and new molded carpeting including extra yardage of
same carpet to cover a custom made console. Quincy will get this 455 I'm
talking about, Along with a solid built 87 GN fresh Th200-R4 ($1,500 OD -
yes), strongest 200 made . I might bump the current 3.08 possi to 3.42 I
think as the OD will allow to comfortably cruse the high-ways to show and
go's. Anyway, the '69 will be looking for a 400ci in the future so please
keep an eye open all. I'm praying this guy didn't score the cam on that
fire-up. Especially wounder why he installed carb and Distributor to fire
this engine. There isn't any of this on this engine now nor sign of same any
where around. I'm not all that positive he did fire it. (I hope he hasn't).
Once I secure this rolling stock next Tuesday hopefully, I'll need some help
from all in choosing proper carb (new) and HEI - electronic goodies. Can get
an electronic switch for engaging the Trans OD if I fully strip the '86
computer, Unsure yet. 455 is absolutely smog free with notched covers.
Should slip right in. Now I've been told that my current FlowTech SB header
setup should bolt up to the BB. I'm not so sure as they tuck real close to
the SB starter. So tight that getting the heat shield blanket over the
starter was a chore. With the SB having shorter deck height than the BB,
Wouldn't that place the collector exactly in the starter location due to the
added what 2" deck height of the BB? Huummm, How about you BB G-body's out
there. You using a small block header or can you give me the brand and # of
the setup your using?

At any rate it appears this is in no way a '69 442 but a plain Cutlass, To
refresh, the vin# 33679B168059
and a body by fisher tag of:

ST C933687    8L    7215
TR   937              65

 Some of these hard to see through several coats of old paint.

C9 = 69 the year
3 = Oldsmobile
3683 = Cutlass S Holiday Coupe
8 = ?
L = Lansing built
7215 = Fisher body sequence
TR 937 = Antique Parchment interior
65 = Topaz (Gold) paint

Now the car sits with a complete Black interior from headliner to carpet
inc. console and all seats. Black period, Hummm. I scratched a few layers
but found nothing but black down to primer. Must have had a complete color
change or this car has a switched tag. Nope looks stable and factory
installed. Well weathered to be original tag. Has a box of trim + Emblems
inc 442 emblems. So I guess I'll have a project for next winter bringing
another '69 Cutlass back to life. Someone must have tried to make this into
a clone. It's been mentioned that 400 was the biggest obtainable in 69. That
only H/O cars crossed the grain to a 455ci. So it doesn't bother me using
the engine in Quincy as it couldn't have originally come in this '69
Cutlass. It's got a pretty sporty interior including console 3 speed shift
auto. What would Olds have used behind a 400ci in 69.  Haven't gotten under
car (but will soon) to see what pan I have on this Tranny. Just curious up
front. Probably a Th350. Got a chance to P/U a NOS Lightning Rods set in the
box. Should go good with the Th200-4R in Quincy. Will produce a custom
console anyway. All of Quincy's new interior components will be ordered next
week. Anyone ever see a boxed set of LR's to know if it should come with
cables?  The next 4 weeks should prove quite interesting. Getting Quincy
completed and starting to dream about this '69 coming to life. You know,
looking at the hulk and see the finished dream. Than planing the course.
Glad you all talked me into working the '69.   Chow for now,   Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ---
"Windows-98 is a 32 bit extension and Graphical shell
for a 16 bit patch to an 8 bit operating system originally
coded for a 4 bit microprocessor, written by a 2 bit
company, that can't stand 1 bit of competition."
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ---

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 16:41:49 -0500 (CDT)
From: blue442@webtv.net (Jeff Carter)
Subject: Re: Thanks (suspension estimate

Hi Mike,
That sounds pretty steep to me.  Even if you go with the more expensive
poly bushings the parts total is less than $500.  This amount is may not
be too high for a competent shop to do the work correctly and stand
behind it, but make sure that's what you're getting.  They prolly charge
at least 50% markup on parts.  Maybe you can supply your parts and get a
discount, but you may lose your warranty doing so.  I do almost all my
work myself, so I may be biased but.....if you have access to a press
and spring compressor and have a couple free afternoons you may save
yourself a few hundred dollars.  The only part you really need
professional help on is the alignment.  The 442 vs. W-30 spring rate may
be a moot point because many aftermarket springs are either standard or
heavy duty towing, skipping the sport application.  Moog has an
excellent reputation, but you may find a better spring from a
performance oriented manufacturer. 

Jeff Carter
blue442@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 17:54:42 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Mallory Unilite

Several people on the list mentioned problems with Unilites.  Check out
this site for more info, http://users.yellowsub.net/gonzo/igntons.html.
The rest of the site is interesting too.  Never saw so many misspelled
words, but the content is cool.

Dude

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 17:51:43 -0400
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Roll Call)1/4mile?)

Maybe I missed this in all of the postings, but have you checked your float
level?  I don't remember what year engine/carb you said you had, but I know I 
had
a similar problem on a 350 that I installed the Performer RPM package on (minus
the carb)  after much grief I found that the float was simply set too low to
allow the bowl to fill fast enough to keep up with the motor.  Might be worth a
look?
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a Jetway and 2.73's :-(

Four42much@aol.com wrote:

> I think you should leave the cam alone and concentrate on the fuel pressure
> area....you should be running the Holley blue pump with a filter before the
> pump also and reset your float level in the Holley carb....hopefully you have
> 3/8th fuel line or better and not the original 5/16th....check your plugs
> after you run and most likely you will have to richen her up with bigger jets
> too...
> talk to you soon....Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 14:56:13 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Batmobile (Was Re: Who needs a belly laugh?)

>> So what did they use for the flame thrower on the back?...
>
> Uh, that's not a flame thrower, it's the exhaust from the car's
> turbine power plant.  The kit car, by the way, has the simulated
> exhaust on it.

Some quick Internet hunting turned up a small collection of Batmobile 
snapshots at http://pages.prodigy.com/tv_movie_cars/batcar.htm

There are probably better shots of it somewhere else, although this 
site does have good shots of the exhaust and parachute packs on the 
back of the car.

- -- Andy

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 18:09:03 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Cigrette Lighter and other tricks.

Falling short of that a kill switch in an unusual location....
 (such as the cigarrette lighter!)
(((yes credit belongs to the original poster of that one!)))
is the best solution.

How about the original poster chiming back in on this one. Musta been before
my last 2 years here. Would like to figure out a top notch complete security
package. Will be on the road between shows as the car isn't a trailer Queen.
Parked in motels etc. Anyone with alarm systems want to step up.  Gary.....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----
"Windows-98 is a 32 bit extension and Graphical shell
for a 16 bit patch to an 8 bit operating system originally
coded for a 4 bit microprocessor, written by a 2 bit
company, that can't stand 1 bit of competition."
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ---

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 16:19:05 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Who needs a belly laugh?

Padavano.Joe@orbital.com wrote:
> 
> Uh, that's not a flame thrower, it's the exhaust from the car's turbine power
> plant.  The kit car, by the way, has the simulated exhaust on it.

Sorry, I should have chose my words more carefully, I knew it wasn't a flame
thrower but I forgot what it was for.

I always wanted there to be high pressure blue flame instead of that flickering
candle like thing they had.  Still it was better than the new black beast with
neon lighting, IMHO.

Obviously Joe P. spent some time in front of the tube as a youngster, probably
ogling Catwoman like the rest of us :)
- -- 

Cliff "Meow" Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 18:33:07 -0400
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Northern Virginia Olds Show

Hey Ray and all,

        We'll be there at 9:00 AM setting up our vending spaces. Hope to see
some of you there. 

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts
 

At 11:20 AM 4/28/1999 , you wrote:
>
>
>The Capitol City Rockets
>Spring Dust-Off
>Car Show and Swap Meet
>
>10:00am to 3:00pm Sunday May 2,1999
>
>At Stohlman Oldsmobile
>200 South Pickett Street
>Alexandria, VA
>
>This is not a judged show. It is open to _all_ Oldsmobiles, projects to
trailer
>queens. There will be food and a D.J.. Swap meet spaces are available. Contact
>Jim Stohlman at 703-751-9100 to reserve your space.
>
>
>
>So, who from the list is going to be there?
>
>Ray
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 19:00:13 -0700
From: Peter Berusch <berusch@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Buyers everywhere

  I turned away $10,000 for my '66 98 convertible, Redzilla.  Again, the
car was not for sale, but the suitor knew that anything could be bought.
For the right price, my britches could be had.  He could not understand
that ten grand could not buy my old red droptop.  But, it couldn't.  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 18:17:53 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Questions

>actually it has nothing to do with the cover bolts that is merely a
>coincidence it has to do with the number of bolts holding the ring gear to
>the carrier the 12 bolt c axle has 12 the 10 bolt has 10
>but the 12 O style has 12 on the cover and 10 on the gear


Well since the 12 bolt "O" has only 10 bolts on the ring gear 
then it seems obvious to me that it has everything to do with
the number of bolts on the cover since it's still considered 
a 12 bolt and not a 10.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 18:19:44 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Parts For Sale

>I broke the crank in the 350 and I'm going to do the 455 thing. Won't be
>needing these parts anymore. If interested drop me an e-mail privately.
>Prices negotiable as usual. Shipping extra.


Randy,
Where do you live?

Mike B

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 19:23:49 EDT
From: CUTLASS442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Questions

Don't have to count the teeth. The numbers are stamped on the side of the 
ring gear. Just divide the big number by the small number and there is your 
ratio.  :)


<<  There are only two ways to get the exact ratio. 
 Find the id code on the front of the passenger side axel and look it up
 in a book, or pop the cover off and count teeth.  >>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 20:32:31 -0400
From: "Joe Kenny" <JKenny@Ingress.com>
Subject: A/C Panel Troubles

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I just bought a 90 Cutlass Supreme 2 dr, 2.3 Quad-4 with 30K about three =
weeks ago.  I can't get the air conditioning to work!  The blower/fan =
will work at all four speeds but the selector buttons (the a/c, floor, =
vent, etc) don't seems to make any difference.  "Off" works ok and any =
other button sends the air out the top window vent.  I've also confirmed =
that the a/c compressor is not running when I select the a/c button.

I removed the selector panel from the dash and the panel looks ok =
mechanically.  Is there another unit that the in-dash panel works with =
that I should be looking at?  Has anyone heard of the in-dash selector =
panel going bad like this before?

Any suggestions are appreciated.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01BE91B6.3DA5BD20
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I just bought a 90 Cutlass Supreme 2 =
dr, 2.3=20
Quad-4 with 30K about three weeks ago.&nbsp; I can't get the air =
conditioning to=20
work!&nbsp; The blower/fan will work at all four speeds but the selector =
buttons=20
(the a/c, floor, vent, etc) don't seems to make any difference.&nbsp;=20
&quot;Off&quot; works ok and any other button sends the air out the top =
window=20
vent.&nbsp; I've also confirmed that the a/c compressor is not running =
when I=20
select the a/c button.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I removed the selector panel from =
the dash and=20
the panel looks ok mechanically.&nbsp; Is there another unit that the =
in-dash=20
panel works with that I should be looking at?&nbsp; Has anyone heard of =
the=20
in-dash selector panel going bad like this before?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Any suggestions are=20
appreciated.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0032_01BE91B6.3DA5BD20--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 20:23:14 -0400
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Parts For Sale

Sorry, I knew I forgot something. I live in PA. A bit west of Philadelpia. 
> Randy,
> Where do you live?
> 
> Mike B
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 21:50:16 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Cutlass Brakes (fwd)

This came to me personally; forwarding.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: "Bender, Curt" <cbender@siebeappliance.com>
Subject: Cutlass Brakes

I have a '95 Olds Cutlass Convertible and the mechanic is having a hard time
making the pedal hard. He's replaced the rear pads and claims to have bled
the system twice. Still no pedal. As a matter of fact the car has a very
hard time stopping under "panic" situations. Can you offer some suggestions?

Curt Bender
Project Engineer
Commercial Cooking Group
INVENSYS Appliance Controls CRSD
Holland, MI     USA
cbender@siebeappliance.com
 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 20:43:14 EDT
From: CChand4644@aol.com
Subject: Re: Who needs a belly laugh?

In a message dated 4/28/99 3:08:44 PM Central Daylight Time, 
ggilpin@wrallp.com writes:

<< Since today seems to be a bit slacking on the Olds technical stuff I assume
 that where everyone is the weather is nice and the Olds is running. Here's
 a couple on the ligher side I found while "working".
 
 
 http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=97089792 >>

I am still laughing as I write this..After reading the intro I was getting 
hyped. Only to see the most ridiculous pile of crap. No wonder it's a head 
turner. Who in their right mind, would drive this car. Not much embarrasses 
this man.
Chris

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 21:02:17 EDT
From: KASOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Shock recommendation?

DONT BUY GABRIALS THEY SUCK.  I work in a shop that sells Gabrial shocks I 
have seen so many problems, and so many come back for warranty in a short 
time.

Keith 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 21:04:19 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Ask away

Mike,
Questions are never stupid.  People who are afraid to ask questions are
stupid.
Sometimes the answers you get are stupid.
Dude

<GJC>
How true. To ask a seeming stupid question when not in the know could overt
a later tragedy and shows willingness to get it right the first time.
Definitely a trait worthy our forum.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ---
"Windows-98 is a 32 bit extension and Graphical shell
for a 16 bit patch to an 8 bit operating system originally
coded for a 4 bit microprocessor, written by a 2 bit
company, that can't stand 1 bit of competition."
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ---

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 21:27:30 -0400
From: Scott Parker <sparker442@banet.net>
Subject: Re: Cigrette Lighter and other tricks.

Has anyone in other parts of the country heard of "LoJack"?  I think it may be
peculiar to the Northeast, but it's a transmitter that is hidden in the car
(only the installer knows where it is) that the cops can activate upon
notification.  Then they track the car down with special gear in the cruisers.
They sell thousands of these systems around here for $600 a whack.
Scott Parker
71 442 Conv.

gjcouse wrote:

> Falling short of that a kill switch in an unusual location....
>  (such as the cigarrette lighter!)
> (((yes credit belongs to the original poster of that one!)))
> is the best solution.
>
> How about the original poster chiming back in on this one. Musta been before
> my last 2 years here. Would like to figure out a top notch complete security
> package. Will be on the road between shows as the car isn't a trailer Queen.
> Parked in motels etc. Anyone with alarm systems want to step up.  Gary.....
>
> -----Regards,
>
> Gary J. Couse
> Couse Custom's
>
> ICQ# 5209322
> gjcouse@francomm.com
> gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com
>
> Custom Conversion Prototype:
> CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
> http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ----
> "Windows-98 is a 32 bit extension and Graphical shell
> for a 16 bit patch to an 8 bit operating system originally
> coded for a 4 bit microprocessor, written by a 2 bit
> company, that can't stand 1 bit of competition."
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> ---

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 21:32:41 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: Cigrette Lighter and other tricks.

In a message dated 4/28/99 9:26:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
sparker442@banet.net writes:

<< Has anyone in other parts of the country heard of "LoJack"?  I think it 
may be
 peculiar to the Northeast, but it's a transmitter that is hidden in the car
 (only the installer knows where it is) that the cops can activate upon
 notification.  Then they track the car down with special gear in the 
cruisers.
 They sell thousands of these systems around here for $600 a whack.
 Scott Parker
 71 442 Conv. >>

Yes we have that up here in southern New Jersey and its cost about the 
same.......not worth it to me...I dont even want them driving my car an 
inch!!!
Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 21:58:24 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: Cigrette Lighter and other tricks.

Scott Parker Wrote:

Has anyone in other parts of the country heard of "LoJack"?  I think it may
be
peculiar to the Northeast, but it's a transmitter that is hidden in the car
(only the installer knows where it is) that the cops can activate upon
notification.  Then they track the car down with special gear in the
cruisers.
They sell thousands of these systems around here for $600 a whack.

In the matter of these said $600 Lojack

I can't believe they get $600 for these. I don't think there's $50 worth of
electronics in them. After all, If you buy one for $100 it's the cops that
turn the transmitter on making there jobs easier (and quicker too). But
$600. ? For that money I want some onboard functionality like a siren maybe
auto hand cuffs. etc. Heck it should have a pin # you enter that allows it
to know it you. If the car moves without proper pin than when a cop car
receiver P/U's the lojack signal they automatically stop the car and check
the driver for "right to drive".  So long as the LoJack program was
standardized as to transmission wave length, than you could take your car
anyway and the cops will be able to pull your Lojack info for checking.
Traveling with Quincy to shows with Quincy spending night parked out side
the ole motel, I'd feel more car secure anywhere then. Huummm, I sniff a
money maker. Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 21:59:29 EDT
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: Best tires for 14x7 rally wheels?

i run 245/60 14 bfg's on the rear of my car.  i am very pleased with these 
tires.  they cost about $70 each from jegs.  on normal days i can only spin 
um when doind less than 15 mph.  anything above that speed and the car just 
pulls.  i'm not sure how the tread wear is cause i just put a new set on 
mine.  if you really like the good years, i remember seeing a marker that was 
used to refreshen the white letters.  i'm pretty sure it would cover up the 
yellow.  

mikeytvb@aol.com
70 442 hc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 22:13:52 -0400
From: "R. Grant" <kgrant442@home.com>
Subject: Gearless (long)

I had to take the 80 Cutlass to the shop today as I was getting a vibration
from the rear end and a grinding sound when I backed up and turned the
wheel. At first I thought it was my rear brakes but I took it to the shop to
find out. The initial report is bad, they didn't have time to put it up on
the hoist but they did take it for a test drive. I was told it is bad they
said it sounds like the ring & pinion has expired, but they didn't hazard a
guess as to the status of my posi. Well now I am going to find out the total
damage tomorrow, I think this will be the end of my car for a wile as I do
not have the funds to replace the 1000 that was put into the rear. I am
keeping my fingers crossed in the hope that it is not a total loss, as the
posi was a brand new unit and I would hate to shell out another 550 on a new
one. All I can say is I did not think a warmed over 307 would kill a 7.5
rear end, my mistake may have been in going for a used ring & pinion. I had
the picked the unit up from a shop and had it looked over and checked by the
guy that put it in and was told that it checked out fine. For the total
saving of about 150 bucks I fell in retrospect that I should have spent the
money on the new ring & pinion. Live and learn I apologize for this being so
long but I just thought I would talk about it to see if anyone else has had
this type of problem with used parts.

Kevin Grant

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 22:19:55 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Cigrette Lighter and other tricks.

In a message dated 4/28/99 5:10:30 PM Central Daylight Time, 
gjcouse@francomm.com writes:

<< Falling short of that a kill switch in an unusual location....
  (such as the cigarrette lighter!)
 (((yes credit belongs to the original poster of that one!)))
 is the best solution.
 
 How about the original poster chiming back in on this one. Musta been before
 my last 2 years here. Would like to figure out a top notch complete security
 package. Will be on the road between shows as the car isn't a trailer Queen.
 Parked in motels etc. Anyone with alarm systems want to step up.  Gary.....
 
 -----Regards, >>
  I always us magetic relay switches, like you would find on windows and at 
the base of doors, and hide the unit below a thin fabric part of the 
interior(above the headliner in my 65's). All that is needed to trigger the 
relay, either open or closed, is to pass an ordinary magnet across the exact 
area where the switch is concealed. I have magbetic Olds emlems on my key 
chains for this purpose. It is nearly impossible for a "perp" to find and 
activate. I have even installed them behind customers plastic dashes. Since 
there is no toggle switch to look for, this has been the stealthiest way I 
have learned. 

Collyn 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 21:23:16 -0500 (CDT)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Dr. Olds - K. Wood)
Subject: Rear Main Seal

Ok guys... I'm on the digest mode so I don't know if anybody sent any
responses to my 
rear main seal questions?  If there have been
any posts to the list regarding this, can somebody please forward it to
me?  I haven't
touched it yet, and don't feel very confident about doing it until I've
heard a little bit... I did
get the oil pan out, and the old seal came out
very willingly.  It didn't seem to be long enough
to fill the whole area around the bearing, but
I could be wrong.  I have the new seal on my
workbench... Anybody got any ideas?

(I would really hate to mess this one up-
kind of a pain to pull the transmission again
to do it over!)

Thanks
Kevin D. Wood
Dr-Olds@webtv.net
72 Olds Cutlass Supreme 455.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 21:25:19 -0500
From: "Mark Tupper" <mtupper@palacenet.net>
Subject: Re: Cigrette Lighter and other tricks.

My thoughts on this one...

You know... I've only been on the list for a little over a year, but I've
heard several stories by members or sent by members of others who have had
their cars stolen...I don't recall of any being recovered intact. It really
tears your heart out.

I've always been skeptical of an alarm system...they are always bypassable,
and usually serve to make people mad rather than to alert them of a problem
with your car.

Having said that, I'm determined that no one is gettin' *MY* car without a
tow-truck. :-P

I'm getting an alarm that has a starter disable, and a VRS system (Alarm
sounds 30 seconds after you are forcibly removed from your vehicle). I
figure that if they get past the alarm, AND the starter disable, then their
gonna have to find a SPDT switch that simultaneously cuts my coil juice and
enables the neutral safety switch. (I'm still working on this...looks to be
fairly easy)

Of course by the time they figure out they won't get the car or decide it's
a POS, they'll probably be so P.O'd that they'll trash it anyway. <sigh>

It still won't stop someone with a tow-truck or flatbed though. Still have
to figure THAT one out.

Gary, about the only thing you can do is SLEEP in the car on your trip. And
that's still no guarantee.

- -Mark Tupper     1987 442    (OCA 30666)
 mtupper@palacenet.net     http://cyberglyphs.com/442/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 21:27:35 -0500 (EST)
From: hurst455@webtv.net (Corey Putnam)
Subject: 455 for sale

   My new engine project has gone a little over budget and I`m going to
try and sell the original engine which is still in my 75 H/O. I thought
I would put it on the list first. I live in northern Indiana and will
not be able to ship it aywhere. I am pulling it out Saturday and need to
sell it very soon afterwards. I need to keep the starter and carb off of
it, everythng else goes.
   It has 66,270 miles on it and runs good, burns no oil and has no
leaks. J heads,(sorry, but it is a 75). I need to get $500 as soon as I
can.

Corey Putnam
75 H/O W-30
87 Regal w/Olds 455
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930

 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 21:28:20 -0500
From: inovator@agriculture.com (Grant Mangold)
Subject: Re: Still Looking for a Nice Driver

Check out pictures of 1977 Olds 98 2-door sport coupe FOR SALE at
http://staging.agriculture.com/technology/aginnovator/Grant/
click on the files labeled " a77xxxx " the first ones the list on the page
(also scroll down for a look at the 1964 Olds F-85 Sport Coupe also for sale)
thank you! -- GM
inovator@agriculture.com

>Looking for a nice 76-88 Cutlass, 77-84 Ninety-Eight, or 77-85 Delta 88 to
>become my next vehicle.  *Maybe* a 79-85 Toronado or, if I can't find any of
>the above, an 87-91 Cutlass Calais or Cutlass Ciera of any year.  Doesn't have
>to be showroom condition, but I don't want a basket-case, either.  Must be
>reliable, well-maintained, and in good or better condition.  No diesels, V6's
>(except Calais/Ciera), or "slantback" Cutlass Salons.  Nicer is better, of
>course.  Ideally, I would find Granny's Grocery Getter with low miles on a
>smaller V-8.  Not looking for a race car (give me your 260's!), just a nice
>car that I can drive without any problems.  If I don't find one soon, I'll
>have to break down and buy a NON-OLDS car!  Let me know what you have.
>Thanks.
>
>-Drew in Windy Western Kansas-
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 19:28:51 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Firewall Stamps question

Zeilmanns@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I have a dark metallic blue 1969 Olds 4-4-2 
  <snip>
> 
> Here are my questions:
> What stamps should be on my firewall (ie. what letters)?
> What color were they?
> Where should they be placed?
> 
> Some fool that had the car before me painted over them all, and I have no way
> of telling.  I have the car in the shop right now, and the guy building the
> engine is being nice enough to let me detail the engine compartment while the
> engine is out, but I don't know what to re-stamp the firewall with.  Anyone
> know?
> 


Jeff,

It is very possible that your 1969 4-4-2 did not
have any paint stamps on the firewall to begin with.
While many original 1969 4-4-2's that I've owned 
(and seen) over the years did not have any "rubber 
stamp" on the firewall, others have.  Of my three 
current 69's, (2 Fremont, 1 Lansing) only one has 
any firewall paint stampings.  It is one of the 
Fremont produced cars.  It is a non A/C car, and 
has the following paint codes located just above 
the grommet for the heater blower motor wire:      
                
To the left:  U U in yellow paint.
To the right:  F F in turquoise paint.              

Both of these letter codes are enclosed in a box
of the same color as the letters.  The boxes 
measure 7/8" tall by 1 1/8" wide.

By using a "consumer grade" paint stripper, you 
should be able to remove the top coat that was painted 
over the original.  And very possibly expose any original 
firewall paint/markings.


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Web site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1931
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