Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.Ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.Ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1927


oldsmobile-digest       Tuesday, April 27 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1927



Re: Mondello Cam Specks
Re: Too much jets in Edelbrock carb
Re: 72 Supreme SX?????
Interior Lights
Re: Introduction
Shocks/Security
Re: 442 Bumpers
Re: 442 Bumpers
80' Supreme
Re: Interior Lights
Re: cruise control
Re: 80' Supreme
Re: Only 1973 Toronado known to exist!
Re: Interior Lights
Re: 80' Supreme
Re: 80' Supreme
Re: Oldsmotuning was: ..uh..DYeagersQ was: the Comfy Chair
Re: Fwd: stickers
Re: Cranking Compression
Re: cruise control
Re: Its out again:)
Re: 80' Supreme
Re: boneyard score
Screwd Up Email Server
Re: Oldsmotuning
Gotta love that HTML thing...NOT
Re: 80' Supreme
Re: Speaking of Carlisle...
Re: 1972 442 W 30 For Sale
rear end ratios
Re: 1972 442 W 30 For Sale
Brake and tail lights out - '68 Cutlass (turn signals work)
Re: 80' Supreme
The book with the errors, was: Re: 1972 442 W 30 For Sale
Cam upgrade/ Was Re: 80' Supreme
Bad Vibrations, Cont'd- TH400? LONG, but urgent!
Re: 1972 442 W 30 For Sale
Re: No More Adventures From Inside The Dash
More on the engine
Re: Cam upgrade/ Was Re: 80' Supreme
IT'S HERE, and it's the nicest 70's model out there
Re: Mondello Cam Specks
Re: Mondello Cam Specks (new specs)
Web Page Revised
Re: 1970 442 Convt. by DANBURY MINT !
Re: Timing/advance?
Re: 72 Supreme SX?????
3.42 aftermarket Ring and Pinion question
Re: list opinion, decal installation  $$$$
Re: More on the engine
71 442 saved, (priceless)
Re: 1972 442 W 30 For Sale
Re: 71 442 saved, (priceless)
Firewall stamps question
Re: Exhausting...
Re: Fan Clutch?
Re: Fan Clutch?
Re: Mallory Unilite Distributor
Re: Exhausting...
Re: The Flamer Lives! (well sorta) (fwd)

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 20:38:39 -0400
From: Gasman24 <stulk@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Mondello Cam Specks

gjcouse wrote:
> 
> Scott;
> 
> Does the catalog mention if the JM-18-20  cam requires special lifters,
> pushrods, or  rockers? How about the listed price?   Gary....
> 
> -----Regards,
> 
> Gary J. Couse
> Couse Custom's
> 
> ICQ# 5209322
> gjcouse@francomm.com
> gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com
> 
> Custom Conversion Prototype:
> CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
> http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com


 Hi Gary,

 I don't see anything in this catalog say you ~must~ use anything
special. The only cam that needs something like that is the JM-25-28 and
larger, where he recomends Rhoades lifters. BTW the 25-28 has a intake
lift of .523 and Exhaust lift of .544.
 As for the price, keep in mind this catalog is a few years old so I'm
not sure the price is still good, but the 18-20 is $99.00.
 I kinda like the look of the 18-20, I think I'm going to use that cam
in my 403. I have a buddy that put the JM 16-18 in his 350, he had some
vac. probs with his brake's he never did anything about it, he sold it
not long after he put the engine together! (His wife said something
about either the car or her! And we all know about that LOL.) But this
was in a G-body Cutlas and that was a fast car. I'd say it could have
taken the 18-20 and would have been a real sleeper.

 Hope some of this h*lps you,
                 Scott

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 20:31:18 -0400
From: "M. Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Too much jets in Edelbrock carb

> > Don't you have the data booklet with the carb? Did you buy the carb new
> > or used?
> >
> > I remember, that booklet has all the info how you can tune it, with the
> > fuel/air rates etc. If you don't have that booklet, I will try to
recover
> > mine.

The whole book is posted on the Edelbrock Web site. Check
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/eps_intro.html
It has a calibration chart for all models as well as other good info.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie, Melbourne, FL
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/~mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 20:39:33 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: 72 Supreme SX?????

Mike Bloomer wrote:
> 
> Hi all.
> Ran across a car today that has me wondering.  The guy
> selling the car has it listed on the for sale sign as a 72
> Supreme SX.  The VIN is 342571R134082 which to me
> says that it's a 71 Supreme built in Arlington, TX.

I agree with you.

> My question is how do you determine it is a true SX?

It should have:

"SX" front fender emblems
442 rear bumper
455/4bbl/dual exhaust
TH400  It was

> Block numbers do not match the VIN.

Possible red flag?

> the remains of a dual snorkel air cleaner

unsure about that

> bench seat with armrest

That's possible

> It had the SX badges on the rear quarters (I think that's where
> they were)

Uhhhh, no.  At least that's not where they belong.  But how many cars do
you see on the road that have been repainted and the name badges are
just stuck on where ever they felt like putting them.

> and the 72 tail light lenses.

Wrong, but what about the grilles?

> If this is (for the sake of argument) a real SX then how much
> would it be worth?

??????

> And how do you tell if it is an SX?

Sounds to me like it's a pretty good chance that it is.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 20:49:16 -0400
From: "Wayne Schwartz" <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: Interior Lights

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BE9026.3FCCDCA0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

This is the first time back on the list for some months....but I need =
help from those who know.  Got my 69 442 convertible out of winter =
storage last week.  The rear interior lights on either side of the rear =
seat won't turn off when the doors are closed.  The interior lights =
under the dash and those in the console do turn off when the doors are =
shut.  I thought all interior lights on the convertible were controlled =
by the door switches.  I didn't have this probelm when I stored it but =
now I have to disconnect the battery when I park.  Any thoughts?  =
Probably some dumb thing that has eluded me.  Wayne Schwartz

- ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BE9026.3FCCDCA0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>This is the first time back on the =
list for some=20
months....but I need help from those who know.&nbsp; Got my 69 442 =
convertible=20
out of winter storage last week.&nbsp; The rear interior lights on =
either side=20
of the rear seat won't turn off when the doors are closed.&nbsp; The =
interior=20
lights under the dash and those in the console do turn off when the =
doors are=20
shut.&nbsp; I thought all interior lights on the convertible were =
controlled by=20
the door switches.&nbsp; I didn't have this probelm when I stored it but =
now I=20
have to disconnect the battery when I park.&nbsp; Any thoughts?&nbsp; =
Probably=20
some dumb thing that has eluded me.&nbsp; Wayne=20
Schwartz</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BE9026.3FCCDCA0--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 20:53:45 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Introduction

WJone65300@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Hi all. I'm Will Jones

Hi, Will.

> and have owned a '64 Starfire Coupe.

You make me sick. :)

> I've just purchased a '67 98 LS.

But I like you already.  What are your colors/options?  I have a loaded,
Turquoise (OK, "Aquamarine") '67 Ninety Eight Holiday Coupe.  Take
notice I don't use "98", they deserve more respect than that...

> What engine was used in the '67 98? Is it a 425 or a 455?

425.  Standard issue was the Super Rocket 365hp, 10.25/1 comp.  Most all
are equipped with this one.  Optional was the Starfire 375 hp, 10.5/1
which included dual exhaust.  Duals were only available from the
factory  with the Starfire engine, not available separately, so this is
good clue as to which engine these have.  'Course, some people have been
known to convert to duals after the fact.

> Are waterpumps, fuel pumps and the like readily available?

I had no problem with a water pump a few years ago, fuel pump shouldn't
be a problem either.

> How about shocks and coil springs?

Had no trouble getting shocks.  Haven't done the springs yet, though I
probably should, they sag something terrible.

> The suspension is a little bouncy.

Uhhhh, yeah.  It is a Ninety Eight, they have a tendency to float a
bit...  Mine used to bottom out on railroad tracks until the new shocks
were installed, that helped greatly.

> Would anyone on the list
> have a towhitch or know who might supply this item for a 32 year old Olds, or
> will I have to fabricate one?

You'd probably have to fabricate.

> How much might I expect to have to pay to have
> the vinyl roof redone? 

We just discussed this recently, didn't we?  Don't remember the outcome.

> Has anyone compiled a list of boneyards that supply
> vintage Olds parts?

For our cars?  I've not found much that was usable in the yards near
me.  Most stuff is rusted/picked over.  I'm still looking for parts for
repair collision damage from '95.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 20:59:17 -0400
From: Scott Parker <sparker442@banet.net>
Subject: Shocks/Security

A couple questions for my esteemed listmates:

1) With the resto almost done, I find I have shocks that don't fit the
car. Apparently they can only be installed/removed with the suspension
partially disassembled. Since that's the state it's in now, 'figured I
should "correct" the situation. Without going overboard, what kind of
shocks would you recommend for a resto that's as close to original as
possible. 'As interested in what would perform best as what may
originally have come with the car...

2) When this baby's done, it's going to be my prized possession and
worth a bunch to me.  What kind of theft deterrent devices do you guys
use?

TIA
Scott Parker
71 442 Conv.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 21:02:14 -0400
From: Scott Parker <sparker442@banet.net>
Subject: Re: 442 Bumpers

What kind of paint would ou use to do the back of the bumpers???  Just curious.
Scott
71 442 Conv.

C. Casteel wrote:

> I've done business with Desert Dog Auto Parts and was very pleased. Had new
> bumpers (front & back) within a week of shipping my old ones to him. $500 or
> so.
>
> >Desert Dog Auto Parts,  found them on 442.com,  advertising bumpers that are
> >factory
> >                                    quality !  Anyone know what that means ?
> >

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 21:02:22 -0400
From: Scott Parker <sparker442@banet.net>
Subject: Re: 442 Bumpers

What kind of paint would you use to do the back of the bumpers???  Just 
curious.
Scott
71 442 Conv.

C. Casteel wrote:

> I've done business with Desert Dog Auto Parts and was very pleased. Had new
> bumpers (front & back) within a week of shipping my old ones to him. $500 or
> so.
>
> >Desert Dog Auto Parts,  found them on 442.com,  advertising bumpers that are
> >factory
> >                                    quality !  Anyone know what that means ?
> >

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 20:03:26 -0700
From: Andy Lawrence <lawrencj@coral.indstate.edu>
Subject: 80' Supreme

I am getting my 2nd Cutlass very soon, it is a 80' Supreme with a
factory 260c.i. engine....The body is in good shape with a nice
interier!  My question is what good is a 260 engine?  I have had 350s
and 403s but never a 260!  What can i expect?  Does anyone know what the
factory H.P. rating for this engine is?

Bigblock
79' Supreme(410ci)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 21:05:51 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Interior Lights

Wayne Schwartz wrote:
> 
> The rear interior lights on either side of the
> rear seat won't turn off when the doors are closed.  The interior
> lights under the dash and those in the console do turn off when the
> doors are shut.  I thought all interior lights on the convertible were
> controlled by the door switches. Any
> thoughts?  

The under-dash and console lights are considered "courtesy" lights, I
think.  And the rear armrest lights are considered "dome" lights.  All
these lights come on when the doors are opened, but they work on
independent switches other times.  The '70 owners manual says the "dome"
lights are controlled by turning the headlight knob (you know, turn the
knob to brighten the instrument panel lights, then it clicks (for lack
of a better word) and the "dome" lights come on.  Also says the
"courtesy" lights are controlled by the map light switch on the dash
(above your radio?).  My '67 is like this, headlight knob for rear sail
panel (dome) lights and "courtesy" switch on the dash for courtesy
lights (don't have a map light).  My '68 was the same way, but did have
the map light instead of the courtesy switch.  I don't think my '72 is
like this.  Check to make sure your headlight switch isn't turned all
the way up.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 21:08:42 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: cruise control

Raymond Dowty wrote:
> 
> my 1970 olds 98 has a factory cruise control but either it does not
> work or i don't know how to use it.  there is an on/off switch on the
> dash to the left of the steering wheel

There is a red light associated with this switch.  The light should be
on when you turn the switch on.  This system is an electical loop and
that light must work, or the current isn't flowing through the system
and the cruise won't work.  I've never had this trouble, but a friend
has warned me about it.  Does your light light?

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 20:07:07 -0500
From: Stephen Hoover <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: 80' Supreme

110HP @ 3400RPM, 205 FT LBS of torque @ 1800 RPM. Exciting, isn't it?

I had one in '78...believe it or not I could white smoke'em around a
corner.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

Andy Lawrence wrote:
> 
> I am getting my 2nd Cutlass very soon, it is a 80' Supreme with a
> factory 260c.i. engine....The body is in good shape with a nice
> interier!  My question is what good is a 260 engine?  I have had 350s
> and 403s but never a 260!  What can i expect?  Does anyone know what the
> factory H.P. rating for this engine is?
> 
> Bigblock
> 79' Supreme(410ci)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 19:13:03 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Only 1973 Toronado known to exist!

> http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=93535031

Hah!  Funny, I have two of 'em.  Guess that means mine are ~really~ rare!  
Maybe
I should piece together all the rust and make 'em work again!  Hmm...  and my
last one came for $50!  Boy, that guy sure must be kicking himself right now! 
:)
- -- 

Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 21:33:26 -0400
From: "Wayne Schwartz" <wschwart@iaw.on.ca>
Subject: Re: Interior Lights

Thanks for yor response Paul, but I just double checked the headlight swith
and its not turned up.  Still no resolution.  Wayne
- -----Original Message-----
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, April 26, 1999 9:11 PM
Subject: Re: Interior Lights


>Wayne Schwartz wrote:
>>
>> The rear interior lights on either side of the
>> rear seat won't turn off when the doors are closed.  The interior
>> lights under the dash and those in the console do turn off when the
>> doors are shut.  I thought all interior lights on the convertible were
>> controlled by the door switches. Any
>> thoughts?
>
>The under-dash and console lights are considered "courtesy" lights, I
>think.  And the rear armrest lights are considered "dome" lights.  All
>these lights come on when the doors are opened, but they work on
>independent switches other times.  The '70 owners manual says the "dome"
>lights are controlled by turning the headlight knob (you know, turn the
>knob to brighten the instrument panel lights, then it clicks (for lack
>of a better word) and the "dome" lights come on.  Also says the
>"courtesy" lights are controlled by the map light switch on the dash
>(above your radio?).  My '67 is like this, headlight knob for rear sail
>panel (dome) lights and "courtesy" switch on the dash for courtesy
>lights (don't have a map light).  My '68 was the same way, but did have
>the map light instead of the courtesy switch.  I don't think my '72 is
>like this.  Check to make sure your headlight switch isn't turned all
>the way up.
>
>Paul
>--
>Paul Hartlieb
>Myerstown, PA
>mailto:plh@nbn.net
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 21:36:25 -0700
From: paul freeman <pfreeman@tmlp.com>
Subject: Re: 80' Supreme

i just purchased an 80 supreme with a 69 pontiac 400ci with 375 horse 
under the hood . the car is in mint condition i only paid $250 for the
car, the guy was in great need of cash Quick . i think his drug dealer
was about to kill him or something .anyway, the motors been rebuilt the
suspension is new, and so is the front end . 80's are hard to come by
here . i've been waiting 5 years for another one to come by ,my first 80
supreme my ex drove it under a 18 wheeler ripe the roof rite of it.

paul freeman 
taunton ,ma
80 supreme   (II)  

Andy Lawrence wrote:
> 
> I am getting my 2nd Cutlass very soon, it is a 80' Supreme with a
> factory 260c.i. engine....The body is in good shape with a nice
> interier!  My question is what good is a 260 engine?  I have had 350s
> and 403s but never a 260!  What can i expect?  Does anyone know what the
> factory H.P. rating for this engine is?
> 
> Bigblock
> 79' Supreme(410ci)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 21:34:45 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: 80' Supreme

Andy Lawrence wrote:
> 
> I am getting my 2nd Cutlass very soon, it is a 80' Supreme with a
> factory 260c.i. engine....

Ugggghhhhh....

> My question is what good is a 260 engine? 

Not much...

> What can i expect? 

Not much.  Don't pull out in front of any speeding semi trucks, you'll
be road kill.  These things can't get out of their own way.  Mine were
in a '77 Supreme & '79 Delta.  Maybe you're 80 Cutlass won't be so bad.

> Does anyone know what the
> factory H.P. rating for this engine is?

Roughly the same as our Model A F*rd?  Factory literature didn't give hp
ratings, they were more concerned with economy during this period.  Hey,
Randy!  We need the Chilton's again...

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 21:40:42 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Oldsmotuning was: ..uh..DYeagersQ was: the Comfy Chair

>And after today checking dwell and adjusting slow idle RPM, Karl has a
follow
>up Q.
>
>(Dwell was found to be 25', should be checked every 3 months od driving or
>so.)


Dwell? Oh yeah..mechanical clickitty-clackers. I check my HEI every 2 or 3
years.

>For a breaker points type system, changing the slow idle RPM alters the
dwell.
>And vice versa.


Dwell will affect idle speed, but (theoretically) not the other way around.
Dwell is simply a measure of the time (expressed in degrees crankshaft) that
the points are closed. I suppose if the points spring can't hold the rubbing
block to the distributor cam, there'd be some variation in dwell with rpm. I
never saw it change much over idle speeds (tho it's been 20 years since I
set "breakers").


>So, for the tuning process of idle, dwell, and final (timing light) timing.

>What is the proper order?


New dwell meter. Then dwell, timing, carb.

>While Karl today managed to match a 600 RPM idle with a 30' dwell (sounds
>much better), will adjusting final timing by backing off of ping or similar
>also affect idle RPM?


Only a tad.

>Or should each be tweaked until finally: 30' dwell, 600 RPM idle and no
ping?


Dwell has direct influence on timing. Dwell is not as important as timing
either. Too short and you lose high rpm spark - too long and you burn up
points. Timing has much more affect on performance.

drc     <- working on his caloric input.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 21:50:34 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Fwd: stickers

James Thingwold wrote:

> >I was wondering if you could give me some leads.
> >I need to replace the blue label on the inside
> >of my driver's door, Which has the VIN # on it.
> >Do you know of anyone who produces these?
> >thanks
> >dave

Yes, I bought one at the '90 Nationals, I think, maybe it was '93.  Two
piece label, the blue one that you type the vin on and a clear label for
over the top.  I was sworn to secrecy about where it came from, 'cause
they weren't authorized at the time.  Maybe they are now?

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 21:48:03 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Cranking Compression

>I think what's happening here is that you get a significant temperature
>increase in the cylinder during cranking which is hard to account for
>accurately.

OK.

>As to how the cam affects the process - I'm not sure how overlap bleeds
>off cylinder pressure when cold cranking at low speeds.

Another variable.

So...bottom line is that there's no set standard of absolute cylinder
pressure vs compression ratio?

I guess the rule-of-thumb posted by Ed is as close as you can expect?

drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:03:23 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: cruise control

Greg Pruett wrote:
 
> Well it works just like any cruise control I've seen exept there's no
> accel or resume settings...It's too old for that. :)

Just a point of information.  The factory cruise on my '67 has both
accel/decel AND resume features, although the resume isn't working at
this time.  Also has a speed minder feature.  These systems use a speed
dial.  You turn the unit on and set the dial at your max speed.  When
you reach that speed, it puts resistance on the gad pedal so that you
can't go over that speed with out forcing past the resistance.  If you
want to cruise at this speed, you hold the set button for a few
seconds.  Then the car should hold at this speed.  On mine, I have to
turn the speed dial up about 10 mph, then the car will accelerate a
little and the cruise is engaged.  I can then adjust the cruise speed up
or down by turning the dial.  Real handy when you come up on a slow
moving car and can't past due to traffic in the other lane.  Decels much
faster than these new systems where you have to hold the button in, and
you don't have to hit the brake.  If you do hit the brake, all I need to
do is re-accelerate until I have that pedal resistance again and it's
re-engaged.  This doesn't work on my unit, 'cause I have the dial turned
up 10 mph to maintain the cruising speed I want.  Anyone know what's
wrong with my system?

Example:

If I set speed minder at 60, I get pedal resistance at 60.  If I push
the set button at this point, cruise doesn't engage.  I have to turn the
dial to 70, then I feel the cruise engage, but I am only traveling 60. 
These dials can be adjusted, but if I do, then the speed minder would
have to be set at 50 if I want it to come on at 60, and then I'd still
have to turn it up to 60 for the cruise to engage,  get it?  

> The cruise control uses vacuum to activate a vacuum servo that applies
> the throttle as it's needed to maintain speed.

I think you are right about this, but my '67 is not vacuum operated,
it's all electric.  This '70 might be electric also, but maybe not,
since it doesn't have the speed dial.  It's probably a vacuum system
like I've got on the '72.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:20:56 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Its out again:)

Trond-Jarle Pedersen wrote:

> But i do have to start with that disc brake conversion now.

Just did one, highly recommended.

> witch means that i cant drive it for a week :(

A week?  Wish mine had only taken that long.  I've been working on mine
since September!

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:24:44 -0400
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 80' Supreme

> Hey, Randy!  We need the Chilton's again...


No problem.........110 hp @ 3400 rpm, torque 205 ft. lbs. @ 1800 rpm, 
A whopping comp. ratio of 7.5:1, bore 3.500", stroke 3.385"

Sounds like a paper weight with wheels!

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:38:34 -0400
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: boneyard score

By the way, I found the hydroboost unit on a mid-eighties gasoline engined
big Buick wagon. I've seen MANY of them in boneyards. Look for big GM
wagons, GM diesel pickups and cars, some Caddies. I have to have a push rod
fabricated but I have a good friend who own a machine shop. I also had to
drill one hole in the hydroboost's bracket to mount it to my firewall. The
other three holes match up fine.

- -----Original Message-----

>
>On diesel cars you have no vacuum.  So to have power brakes
>the factory used a hydraulic power assist for the brakes.  This
>is run off of the P/S pump.  The lines run from the pump to the
>hydraboost, to the steering box, and back to the pump.  This
>will let you run a very radical cam and still keep your power
>brakes at a small addition to weight.
>
>Mike Bloomer
>mbloomer@mindspring.com
>ICQ# 19113713
>http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:39:32 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Screwd Up Email Server

To the person trying to contact Steve Minore:

The email server both he and I have, snet.net, is screwed up.  Some of
my email has taken 6 days to get to me.  It's not Steve's fault if you
haven't heard from him, he's still around.  Seems my emails to the list
are getting through, but the snet service dept. isn't sure if all
outgoing mail is going out.  Isn't that nice?  And next month this
half-a___d outfit is having a rate hike!

Dude

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:31:12 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Oldsmotuning

> 'Lo again!
>
Hello,

> And after today checking dwell and adjusting slow idle RPM, Karl has a follow
> up Q.
>
> (Dwell was found to be 25', should be checked every 3 months od driving or
> so.)
>
> For a breaker points type system, changing the slow idle RPM alters the 
dwell.
> And vice versa.
>
> So, for the tuning process of idle, dwell, and final (timing light) timing.
> What is the proper order?
>
Idle speed is set first, then dwell, then timing.  If the distributor is
in decent shape, timing changes should not significantly alter the
dwell.  Changing dwell, however, will alter timing.  Also, the dwell
angle should not vary more than a couple degrees as the engine is
accelerated through about 1500 rpm.

> Or should each be tweaked until finally: 30' dwell, 600 RPM idle and no ping?
>
 Although the sequence mentioned above is correct, yes, you may have to
do the back-and-forth tweakage thing.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/dual exhaust/
        sometimes Q-Jet, sometimes Holley/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:40:51 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Gotta love that HTML thing...NOT

Howdy,

I really hate to whine, here, but could ya'll disable the HTML on your
posts?  Those of us in digest are getting pummeled by dozens, perhaps
hundreds, of lines of HTML gibberish.

I know it's more Greg's place to mention this, so I apologize if I'm
overstepping my bounds.   Thank you for your support.  Believe me, I'd
rather be on this list with ya'll right now than with the best people in
the world :-)

- --
Thomas P. Smith
  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/dual exhaust/
        sometimes Q-Jet, sometimes Holley/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 21:45:24 -0700
From: Andy Lawrence <lawrencj@coral.indstate.edu>
Subject: Re: 80' Supreme

RANDY A GEISEL wrote:

> > Hey, Randy!  We need the Chilton's again...
>
> No problem.........110 hp @ 3400 rpm, torque 205 ft. lbs. @ 1800 rpm,
> A whopping comp. ratio of 7.5:1, bore 3.500", stroke 3.385"
>
> Sounds like a paper weight with wheels!
>
> Randy

So would a CAM swap do anygood?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 21:39:02 EDT
From: Four42man@aol.com
Subject: Re: Speaking of Carlisle...

In a message dated 4/26/99 7:08:22 PM !!!First Boot!!!, 
Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM writes:

<< As an example, at
 Englishtown last year, I found a very straight pair of notched big block 
valve
 covers left by someone who had abandoned the swap due to the rain.  >>
Joe, wouldnt happen to have a extra left side notched valve cover for sale?  
Looking for one.
W-Tony
 <A HREF="http://www.442.com/bonafide.html">Tony Bonafide's '69 442 W-30 
Convertible
</A> 
Just in case you havnt seen it.  Heres some pic's.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:44:57 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: 1972 442 W 30 For Sale

Mike McLeod wrote:
> 
> So I looked in the Olds Restoration guide after writing my first
> response.  I may be mistaken, but on page 163 the pic in the lower left
> corner. It looks like that car has A/C and he depicts it as a 1972 W-30.
> What do you all think?

Is this that book with all the errors?

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:01:38 -0500
From: "Troy Nelson" <troyjnelson@email.msn.com>
Subject: rear end ratios

I own a 1978 Olds Cutlass Supreme that I race in enduros.
I am wondering if anyone knows what the stock rear end ratio is?
It has a 350 engine w/turbo 350 trans.
I am looking for a lower gear ratio with a posi rear end.
Can anyone help me out on what gear ratios are available and what other rear
end GM cars maybe compatible?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 23:11:45 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: 1972 442 W 30 For Sale

This book does have some errors, but not everything is wrong.  They weren't
that good.

Dude

Paul Hartlieb wrote:

> Mike McLeod wrote:
> >
> > So I looked in the Olds Restoration guide after writing my first
> > response.  I may be mistaken, but on page 163 the pic in the lower left
> > corner. It looks like that car has A/C and he depicts it as a 1972 W-30.
> > What do you all think?
>
> Is this that book with all the errors?
>
> Paul
> --
> Paul Hartlieb
> Myerstown, PA
> mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 23:00:57 -0400 (EDT)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Brake and tail lights out - '68 Cutlass (turn signals work)

Yep, turn signals work o.k., although the right side seems to be a little
sluggish. 

As I was checking it out tonight, the brake lights began to work again, for
a while. Now nothing. Tail lights don't work at all. Side markers and
back-up lights are not hooked up. (They haven't been since I've had the car,
even though the other stuff was working fine up to last week)

Any additional thoughts from the experts?

TIA again.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 23:14:03 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: 80' Supreme

Andy Lawrence wrote:
> 
> RANDY A GEISEL wrote:
> 
> > > Hey, Randy!  We need the Chilton's again...
> >
> > No problem.........110 hp @ 3400 rpm, torque 205 ft. lbs. @ 1800 rpm,
> > A whopping comp. ratio of 7.5:1, bore 3.500", stroke 3.385"
> >
> > Sounds like a paper weight with wheels!
> >
> > Randy
> 
> So would a CAM swap do anygood?

Probably would work better if you switched the engine and the cam for
best results.  I haven't heard too many people bragging about the power
of the 260.    Truthfully, my parents had one of these back in the early
80's.  It was a decent, economical car, but underpowered.  I doubt Joe
P. would be caught dead in one of those high powered 110 hp, 3300 pound
screamers.  :)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 21:58:27 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: The book with the errors, was: Re: 1972 442 W 30 For Sale

Kinda hard to tell what is true and what is false if there ARE errors in 
the book. Once you loose faith in the accuracy of a book you can toss 
it... no offense...

George

> This book does have some errors, but not everything is wrong.  They weren't
> that good.
> 
> Dude
> 
> Paul Hartlieb wrote:
> 
> > Mike McLeod wrote:
> > >
> > > So I looked in the Olds Restoration guide after writing my first
> > > response.  I may be mistaken, but on page 163 the pic in the lower left
> > > corner. It looks like that car has A/C and he depicts it as a 1972 W-30.
> > > What do you all think?
> >
> > Is this that book with all the errors?
> >
> > Paul
> > --
> > Paul Hartlieb
> > Myerstown, PA
> > mailto:plh@nbn.net
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 23:14:01 -0400
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Cam upgrade/ Was Re: 80' Supreme

> So would a CAM swap do anygood?

I'd imagine so, but where would you find one? Comp, Summit, Jegs, Edelbrock
have no listings for anything under a 330.

Let's go guys, we need a little educatin' here. I see it has the same stroke
as a 350. What makes it a 260, the smaller bore? Is it based on the same
block as a 307......350?

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:22:31 -0500 (CDT)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Dr. Olds - K. Wood)
Subject: Bad Vibrations, Cont'd- TH400? LONG, but urgent!

I had posted earlier about a vibrating problem
in the drivetrain of my 72 Cutlass at 75 MPH
and higher.  I really have to believe it's in the
transmission somehow- because everything
else has been changed at one point or another
with exception of the engine, and it would surprise me if that was the
problem, because
it only vibrates at 75MPH- I can take it up to
well over 4000 RPM in second gear without
a shake of any kind.

I now have a long-tail TH400 from a 67 Delta 88 in my car.  I am
thinking that as long as I am
going to think about changing the trans that I
might stick the correct trans and driveshaft in
the car. ANYBODY PARTING A CAR OR
INTERESTED IN SELLING SUCH PARTS???
I would like to keep the current trans intact
and I just had the driveshaft made for me, so
I'd like to keep that too, at least until I'm sure
my transmission is the problem...  

Just for the heck of it, I removed the tail shaft
from my trans and pressed out the extension
housing bushing, which I will replace tomorrow, but it looks fine, so I
think that is not likely the
problem.

If anybody has any ideas, I would be most pleased to listen to them...
I know the problem
is in the driveline, and with everything that I have replaced, my
problem has to be either 
the transmission, or something in angles of
things, but I have even altered the rear height
of the transmission by almost an inch and had
exactly the same problem.  I don't normally drive around a lot a 75 MPH,
but as much as
I have invested in my car to this point, I can't
leave something as major as this go unsolved.

I thank any of you in advance that respond!

Kevin D. Wood
Hartford, WI  
Dr-Olds@webtv.net
'72 Olds Cutlass Supreme  455 TH400
3.55 Post (from '68 GTO)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:38:50 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1972 442 W 30 For Sale

In a message dated 4/25/99 9:07:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
jspajak@us.hsanet.net writes:

<< OOPS! AC was NOT available on any 72 W30. I'd be real suspicious of this
 car! >>

No, I believe that beginning in 1970 you could get AC in a W30.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 20:00:08 -0700
From: "Andrew Conkey" <andrewc@novell.uidaho.edu>
Subject: Re: No More Adventures From Inside The Dash

Brian,

I have been following this thread closely as I thought of doing the 
same thing in my '84 Delta last year when I bought it. Now I am 
glad I didn't!!! It's a bummer to spend all that time for nothing, but 
here's what I did...

I bought the *smallest* mechanical guages I could find (oil pressure 
& water temp) and very *neatly* and carefully carved two holes in 
my dash where the factory guages would have been. The holes are 
symmetrically placed on either side of the steering column.  I had 
to hack slightly at the 'inner dash' structure to get the temp guage 
to fit, but in the end it works great. It looks professional, great and 
almost like it is 'supposed' to be there. I abandoned the factory 
idiot lights for now.

My guages are 270 degree sweep so have very good 'resolution', 
something I thought terribly lacking in the factory guages...

Just a thought, if you still want gauges in there...

Andrew
'84 Delta 88

- ----------------------------------


<big snip>

> The ETM does not match my car.  My car is unable to move, because I have
> the dashboard in my kitchen.  I am really tired of f*cking around with
> this, as I have been very patient with it, learning more every day, and in
> the end result I was doomed from the beginning.  I am going to abandon this
> project tomorrow, and restore the car to non-gauges, unless somebody can
> tell me why I shouldn't.
> 
> Very bitter,
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
> MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
> 2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
> Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
>                                               (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
> 1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
> 	Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
> 		4-door
> "The Party Barge"
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:38:47 -0500 (EST)
From: hurst455@webtv.net (Corey Putnam)
Subject: More on the engine

   I`ve been looking over the dyno numbers and have deceided to drop the
engine in as it is. The dyno RPMs start at 2900 where the torque is at
430lbs, the engines stays at over 430lbs or more until 4800RPM. Between
3500 to 4400RPM it`s above 440lbs. It peaks at 466lbs at 3800RPM,
although this engine didn`t hit the numbers that I had wanted, it should
pull pretty good on the street.
   It`s cam limited, and if it doesn`t move as fast as I would like it
to, I`ll put the Mondello 22-25-10 in after the season is over. I`m
going to start the swap this Friday, taking a couple of days to get the
engine compartment cleaned up before the "semi-BEAST" gets slammed home.
   One thing I would still like to find out is that they listed a 307
balancer w/ a part #417142. Is this OK to be used with the 455 or not?
I`m sure they KIND-OF knew what they were doing when they built it but
I`d still feel better if an Oldsmobiler told me it was alright.

Corey Putnam
75 H/O W-30
87 Regal w/Olds 455
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930    


  
 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:41:16 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Cam upgrade/ Was Re: 80' Supreme

>> So would a CAM swap do anygood?
>
>I'd imagine so, but where would you find one? Comp, Summit, Jegs, Edelbrock
>have no listings for anything under a 330.
>
>Let's go guys, we need a little educatin' here. I see it has the same
stroke
>as a 350. What makes it a 260, the smaller bore? Is it based on the same
>block as a 307......350?


Yes, the smaller bore is the only difference.  A 260 block is
as unique (different) to a 307 as a 350 to a 307.  Though they
all share a common (more or less) crank the blocks are very
different.  I am not aware of any reason why you couldn't use
any sb cam in a 260 such as cam bank angles (disregarding
roller cams).  A mild 307 or 350 cam SHOULD work and
would be a fairly healthy 260 cam, but I think the main
reason nobody offers a cam for this motor is why worry about
fixing one up when you can get running junkyard 350's that
will drop right in for not much more than you'll invest in the
cam, lifters, timing chain, and gaskets?  Now, if the engine
design used the 350 pistons with a short stroke you could
build a real screamer, but why?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:25:13 EDT
From: Socalolds@aol.com
Subject: IT'S HERE, and it's the nicest 70's model out there

The postman knocked on my door today and delivered a package I'd forgot I 
ordered.
As I tore it open, I saw the return address from Franklin Mint and remembered 
what I'd ordered two weeks ago. Thanks to a post on this site.
	The metal 1:24 scale model is ABSOLUTELY gorgeous(sp). Red W-30 4sp 
convertible with white interior. Comes with a separate boot and fully 
extended convertible top you can put on. The car is a must for any one who 
love Oldsmobiles. I'm thinking about ordering another one they're so 
beautiful.
By far it is the best reproduction for the $$ out there. Belive it was $109. 
Won't know til my CCard statement arrives though. But who care it's only 
money.
Call Franklin Mint for yours today. this is not a paid advertisement, I'm 
just elated.
Dennis 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:20:23 EDT
From: QWKCUTLASS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Mondello Cam Specks

hey, i have a new catalog /w the specs on some good street cams for ya..

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:34:40 EDT
From: QWKCUTLASS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Mondello Cam Specks (new specs)

# JM 18 20  lift .488/.496  DUR@.50 .216*/.226* lob sep. 112* lifter are #HL 
232 Sealed power performance lifter, .842 lifter 
bore.				
					

here are a couple of stronger streetable cams if you're looking for a bit 
more performance...

#JM 22 25 10 lift .512/.523 Dur@.50 230*/236* lob sep 110 lifters are # HL 
230 hi rev hyd. lifters. You can run power brakes /w this cam.

#JM 3 4  lift .522/.542 Dur@.50 230*/238* lob sep 110 lifters # HL 230 
I don't think you can run power brakes with this one, without a vac. can.

For the money I'd run the JM 3 4, its a really good compromise between a 
powerful race cam and a samller street cam.  
And just in case you don't know you can not run a cam over .500 lift without 
machinework to the valve guides.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 23:38:18 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Web Page Revised

I finally got pics of my 83 Hurst Olds scanned ....
go to  <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/">HOT ROD HARRY'S OLDSMOBILES
</A> takes a while to download...in time I will have small pics to click on 
to see the big pics separately
 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:32:14 EDT
From: Socalolds@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1970 442 Convt. by DANBURY MINT !

Mike,
I just got mine today also. Boy was I elated It is very nice indeed.
The good thing is it matches my car exactly, so I dont have to paint it.
See ya
Dennis

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 00:34:18 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: Timing/advance?

Is it possible your timing chain has slipped a cog thus throwing the
perceived timing out of the whack by a certain amount of degrees.  Gary....

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

"Windows-98 is a 32 bit extension and Graphical shell
for a 16 bit patch to an 8 bit operating system originally
coded for a 4 bit microprocessor, written by a 2 bit
company, that can't stand 1 bit of competition."
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <DYeager535@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, April 25, 1999 1:25 AM
Subject: Timing/advance?


> hey all..still dealing with the 403...think I've solved, or at least
> REALLY reduced my poor idle problem. I grabbed the distributor, and
rotated
> it clockwise quite a bit (it WAS timed at 22 degrees at 1100RPM, Haynes
> manual specs) and it smoothed out considerably.
> What I would like to know is, which direction "advances" the timing?
> I assumed that rotating the distributor in the direction of engine
rotation
> (In Olds case counterclockwise, right??? Or is that just the distributor
> itself?) was advancing the timing. Was I wrong? I guess I should have
payed
> more attention when I had the timing light on it initially, but since it
is
> running quite smoother, and still has the same or slightly better running
> characteristics, that I'm ok as is, but may turn it clockwise a bit more
to
> see if the idle improves the slight bit more I'd like.
>
> Thanks, Dorian
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 00:19:03 EDT
From: S61starfir@aol.com
Subject: Re: 72 Supreme SX?????

In a message dated 4/26/99 7:23:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
mbloomer@mindspring.com writes:

<< 
 If this is (for the sake of argument) a real SX then how much
 would it be worth?  It looks pretty good overall.  And how do 
 you tell if it is an SX?  TIA
 
 Mik >>
To be really sure its a real SX you would have to see the build sheet, an SX 
is real easy to clone. On the build  sheet it would show  option Y79, near 
the end as the option numbers are places in alpha  order.

Everett   OCA# 1961   1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 00:44:35 EDT
From: Zeilmanns@aol.com
Subject: 3.42 aftermarket Ring and Pinion question

I have a question for anyone knowledgeable on aftermarket gears for 
Oldsmobiles:
Does anyone know if Richmond's set of 3.42 gears will work with my Olds 12 
bolt "o" type rear with Olds series 4 posi?  I've been told by one guy at 
Richmond that their 3.42s will work in my 12 bolt with Olds series 4 posi, 
and another guy at Richmond said they won't.  So I am wondering if they will.
I am still looking for either an original 3.42 ring and pinion, or an 
aftermarket that will work.  

Thanks,

Jeff Zeilmann
'69 4-4-2
'69 Cutlass Convertible
zeilmanns@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 00:46:27 EDT
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: list opinion, decal installation  $$$$

getting estamates on installing factory decals on my rallye 350 today. i have 
had quotes from 40$-300$ from different people.  i understand their hard to 
put on, and after the money one spends to restore a car plus the price of the 
decals themselves (600$ us) i dont want to get cheap at the last minute.  i 
understand some of the other olds used decals also and just wondered what 
kind of $$$$ others had to pay to get a quality job?     TIA.    steven, 
w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 23:53:31 EDT
From: QWKCUTLASS@aol.com
Subject: Re: More on the engine

if you swap the cam out try the JM 3-4 instead of the 22-25-10 its an all 
around better cam and will give you a little bit more horses and torque.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 01:11:39 EDT
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: 71 442 saved, (priceless)

working last 2 months like a dog to bring back from the dead a 71 442 for my 
daughters 16 th b-day paid off today, not only did i save another good car, 
but the look on her face was priceless!  still lots of little things left to 
do, interior and such. but the car has a new viking blue paint job, and dad 
got lots of hugs and kisses.  i did change the drive train to a 350 2 bl / 
350 th , (after all it is her first car).  but hey that can allways be 
changed back. ;)  now all i have to do is get everything finshed for nats.  
still have to finish my rallye 350, but i got things going my way!   
restoring a car in 2 months is tough!  wouldnt think of trying that on 
anything but an olds, waste of time!   its a very good feeling to finish some 
thing and know its a thing of beauty and quality, and you did a good job.   
anyone else looking forward to nats.?   i am!     steve,  w30442cs@aol.com    
    (keeping the faith)      

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 23:42:15 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1972 442 W 30 For Sale

In a message dated 4/26/99 11:34:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
LOUS69W30@aol.com writes:

<< In a message dated 4/25/99 9:07:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
 jspajak@us.hsanet.net writes:
 
 << OOPS! AC was NOT available on any 72 W30. I'd be real suspicious of this
  car! >>
 
 No, I believe that beginning in 1970 you could get AC in a W30.
 
 Lou Principe
 69 442 W-30 >>

Thats right Lou, when you got the air car , you got a less radical cam....I 
believe it was a 274 for the AC car and 328 for the non air car...
Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 26 Apr 1999 22:28:15 -0700
From: BC <beastmaster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: 71 442 saved, (priceless)

Dad, its me your long lost son, ;)

W30442CS@aol.com wrote:

> working last 2 months like a dog to bring back from the dead a 71 442 for my
> daughters 16 th b-day paid off today, not only did i save another good car,
> but the look on her face was priceless!  still lots of little things left to
> do, interior and such. but the car has a new viking blue paint job, and dad
> got lots of hugs and kisses.  i did change the drive train to a 350 2 bl /
> 350 th , (after all it is her first car).  but hey that can allways be
> changed back. ;)  now all i have to do is get everything finshed for nats.
> still have to finish my rallye 350, but i got things going my way!
> restoring a car in 2 months is tough!  wouldnt think of trying that on
> anything but an olds, waste of time!   its a very good feeling to finish some
> thing and know its a thing of beauty and quality, and you did a good job.
> anyone else looking forward to nats.?   i am!     steve,  w30442cs@aol.com
>     (keeping the faith)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 01:31:47 EDT
From: Zeilmanns@aol.com
Subject: Firewall stamps question

I have a dark metallic blue1969 Olds 4-4-2 w/ light. blue interior.  The VIN 
# is 344879M238073.  It was made in Lansing in 1969. It is has no vinyl roof, 
and came with PS, PB, AC and the standard 4-4-2 package.  The plate on the 
firewall has the following info on it:

ST69  33687LAN237774  BDY
TR933     51    51    PNT

Here are my questions:  
What stamps should be on my firewall (ie. what letters)?
What color were they?
Where should they be placed?

Some fool that had the car before me painted over them all, and I have no way 
of telling.  I have the car in the shop right now, and the guy building the 
engine is being nice enough to let me detail the engine compartment while the 
engine is out, but I don't know what to re-stamp the firewall with.  Anyone 
know?

Regards,

Jeff Zeilmann
'69 4-4-2
'69 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 01:00:33 -0500
From: Mark <greenmm@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Exhausting...

Just to let you know, I am having similar problems on my 75 Delta 88.

I have eplaced the entire exhaust system (in pieces mind you) gone
through two cat converters (the first eplacement too small) a manifold
gasket and just ecently a donut manifold gasket ( iassume they are the
same).  Trust me, you are not the only one :)

Mark MacDonald
<http://home.earthlink.net/~greenmm>

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> 
> I seem to be cursed on ever getting exhaust systems to work right on any
> Olds engine. I have never been happy with the sound of the duals on my
> Cutlass, but figured the bone-stock single setup on the old delta ought to
> be pretty trouble-free. Wrong.
> 
> When I bought the car 2 years ago the exhaust was fine. Lasted for about a
> year before some baffles started to rattle in the muffler. Then last
> summer the passenger x-man cracked. No fun. Got a used x-man, cleaned it
> up, had it replaced. In the procerss of doing that the shop determined I
> needed a new crossover pipe and front pipe, so that was replaced also. Was
> nice and quiet for about 2 weeks. Then the driver's side decided to
> develop a leak. Back to the shop, new gasket on that side, problem solved.
> About 2 weeks after that, the passenger side gasket blew. Back to
> chuggin'.
> 
> Took it to an exhaust shop in December (the original shop was now out of
> business). They sold me a new muffler, said the manifold needed planing to
> fix the rest of the noise, $100 later: no improvement in the
> noise. Yesterday I finally got fed up with the noise and took it to yet
> another shop. They find the "new" crossover pipe leaking at both ends,
> cracked welds, broken studs, etc. Replace/fix all, another $80. Car is now
> marginally quieter but the passenger side manifold is still leaking due
> to the blown gasket.
> 
> I figure I have close to $400 in all this work and still don't have a
> silent exhaust. To say I'm annoyed is a slight understatement...
> 
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>  ---- Olds List Admin Instructions found at: http://unsub.tsx.org ----

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 01:57:46 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Fan Clutch?

> ***Here's a thought - maybe this is an electrical problem!  If, for
example,
> the temp reads higher at lower voltage, and your alternator or battery
are
> on their last legs, you'd get exactly what you're seeing here.  If the
temp
> sender increases resistance as temp increases, that's what would do this.
 
> 
> Quick check: Disconnect the temp sender, start engine.  If temp is now
> reading a zillion degrees on the gauge, you may be having this condition.
> If temp reads cold, "never mind"
> 
> I'd get a voltmeter and check voltage at dash with engine idling and at
> speed.  Could be a simple as a slipping alternator belt.  Come to think
of
> it, if you have one belt doing the alternator and fan...
> 
> Don

It was the mechanical gauge that was doing the same...Also I have a volt
gauge hooked up to the ignition so I know it reads 14 volts at most
times...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 02:04:11 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Fan Clutch?

Pettrix@prodigy.net

> It could be that the impeller tolerances in your H2O pump are loose. 
Then
> circulation would be poor, until the engine speed picked up and the pump
> could move cooler water from the radiator into the motor, dramatically
> dropping the temp reading.
> 
>   We use lots of impeller pumps at work for cooling, and this sounds a
lot
> like a problem we run into sometimes.
> 
> 
> Good luck,
> 

Well I replaced the non-thermal clutch fan with a thermal fan. I believe
the non-thermal was drawing too much air. When you would rev the motor it
would pull alot of air...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 02:09:12 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Mallory Unilite Distributor

> >
>  I don't actually have the Mallory Distributor, but I've had the Mallory
> Unilite conversion in my, otherwise, stock Delco distributor for a
> couple months, and, so far, it's rock solid.  (The conversion uses the
> same module as the Unilite distributor.) It's fired up and run fine in
> the rain, the cold, the heat, etc.  It accelerates well.  Personally,
> I'm slightly suspicious of the Mallory distributor itself.  The cap is
> noticeably smaller than a Delco distributor cap.  I'd think that would
> lend to crossfiring under the cap.
> 
> BTW, if the trigger light actually went bad it wouldn't run at all.
> However, some of the other internal circuitry could be getting flaky.
> Before getting radical I'd do the usual stuff, like clean the cap, look
> for carbon tracking, swap the ignition coil and see if that's it, check
> connections...yada, yada, yada.  BTW, you kept your stock ballast
> resistance when you put the Unilite in the car, right?  Full 12 volts
> will eventually kill the module.  Good luck.
> 
 Yes I do have a ballast resistor. Mallory tech stated to reun the
distributor with a direct 12volt line and run the coil with the resisted
line...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 06:26:55 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Exhausting...

On Tue, 27 Apr 1999, Mark wrote:
> Just to let you know, I am having similar problems on my 75 Delta 88.
> I have eplaced the entire exhaust system (in pieces mind you) gone
> through two cat converters (the first eplacement too small) a manifold
> gasket and just ecently a donut manifold gasket ( iassume they are the
> same).  Trust me, you are not the only one :)

It only gets worse... yesterday I was out running errands and damned if
both sides weren't leaking *again*! It sounds louder now than it did
before the work was done. Back to the shop yet again later this week... I
cannot understand why this is so tough. You'd figure a crossover pipe
would be pretty straightforward. I'm really annoyed now.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
 ---- Olds List Admin Instructions found at: http://unsub.tsx.org ----
                http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 06:29:18 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: The Flamer Lives! (well sorta) (fwd)

Sparky asked me to forward this to the list... respond to
gkalkhof@mail.execpc.com if you have any insight.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Greg Kalkhoff <gkalkhof@mail.execpc.com>
Subject: Re: The Flamer Lives! (well sorta)

Greg Kalkhoff wrote:
We came upon a theory that, NO matter what you put into the crankcase,
it could not get by the oil rings/scraper to do justice to the
compression rings. I short, a bottom end attack MAY not be the solution! 

So, in our stupified, devine wisdom (beyond the cherry picker route), it
was decided that an upper end approach be taken. This being gas
additives (smoke and mirrors, quackery, cure all end all solutions, to
add to the mixture to lubricate/disolve/free the rings from the top.

So, at this time, I have an alphabet soup mixture of STUFF in the tank
(stabilizers, Rislone, Mystery oil). Hopefully, over a few weeks it will
kick free the compression rings and I'll be good to go again. Somebody
wake me from my dream............. 

For the record, the car performs BEAUTIFULLY at speeds >10 MPH. You
cannot even tell there is, what is essentially a dead cylinder. It has
power up the ying yang. Kick it down and I fly! However, the idle is
rough and if you punch it off the line, it will sputter and backfire out
the carb.  ): No 50 foot patches anymore, for now at least.

Gregg B., please forward to Olds List (both fragmented parts). Olds
Listers, please remember I'm not on the OLDS list, so reply to me
privately. Toro listers do the usual. Many thanks. I got some really
good feedback a few weeks ago! Much appreciated! I replied to most, if
not all of you who replied.
 
TIA!

Sparky (with a lope)
- -- 
Greg "Sparky" Kalkhoff
Toronado Chapter Webmaster
Toronado FAQ Page Administrator
http://www.Toronado.org
See the Sparkmobile at: http://www.442.com/kalkhoff.html

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1927
*********************************

