Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1930


oldsmobile-digest      Wednesday, April 28 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1930



Re: Only 1973 Toronado known to exist!
Re: Questions
Re: Dabury Mint Phone Number (how do we get them to make more Olds'?)
Re: Steel-shim vs composite head gaskets.
Re: Different me against the machine shop.
Re: Shock recommendation?
Re: Questions
Firewall Stamps question
subscribe
Re: Roll Call)1/4mile?)
Re: Mallory Unilite/Ignition Woes
Birthday Milestone
UNBOUNCE: One wire alternators
Re: Compression Ring
changing thermostat
Re: changing thermostat
Re: Questions
Re: [Fwd: 442 Bumpers]
Re: Birthday Milestone
Re: Fwd: 442 Bumpers
Re: Shock recommendation?
Re: car shows?
Re: Fwd: 442 Bumpers
Re: Roll Call)1/4mile?)
Re: [Fwd: 442 Bumpers]
Re: Questions
Re: Birthday Milestone
66 cutlass chrome and clips
Re: determining rear end ratio
Re: Roll Call)1/4mile?)
Re: Wate? was:Rainy Day Doggie
Re: buyers everywhere - not in L.A.!
Re: Tail lamps out
88 OLDS Delta Window
Re: UNBOUNCE: What EGR?
Re: Cruise Control diagnosis
Re: buyers everywhere - not in L.A.!
copper gaskets do exist (was: steel shim vs composite gasket
Northern Virginia Olds Show
Re: Backside of Bumpers
Re: 88 OLDS Delta Window
Re: buyers everywhere - not in L.A.!
Re: Questions
Re: determining rear end ratio

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 22:31:12 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Only 1973 Toronado known to exist!

CUTLASS442@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I emailed him regarding his "rare" toro. He replied back three times so far.
> Below are a couple of his responses. I guess I should get a toro because
> according to him a cutlass is a girls car........lololololololol

> How many still exist with 56000 original mailes?

Mine has 65K on it.  

> I also alway thought a cutlass was a girl's car!

Well, I don't know about ~him~ but I got many more girls in the Cutlass than I
ever got in any of my Toros...  Although my 77 Toro ~did~ have this babe-magnet
tendancy...  Some never-to-forget memories in that old tank!  But without a
doubt, I've gotten more girls in the Cutlasses than the Toros.  So maybe he's
right.  Hardly a selling point though ;)


Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://drive.to/Oldsmagnet    See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 22:37:57 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Questions

QWKCUTLASS@aol.com wrote:
> 
> 2. turning the tire gives you a close guess

Turning the tire 10 times and dividing the driveshaft revolutions by 10
gives you a better guess.  The only problem is you have to take off your
shoes and get someone else to take theirs off too :)
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 00:41:16 EDT
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: Dabury Mint Phone Number (how do we get them to make more Olds'?)

Hey there Olds freaks!!!!!!!!

That 70 W-30  looks great!!!!!

Does anyone out there know how to get companies  like Franklin Mint,  Danbury 
Mint,  Anyother Mint,  Ertl....ect  to build other Olds models???        
Personally  I would love to see a 61-62 Olds Starfire,  and a 68 Hurst/Olds 
produced.    I would love to see any 64-67 442 built.

SO    What do YOU think????       Would letters to these companies do any 
good other than irritating the heck outta them???


Thanks

Vinny
62 Olds Starfire ~~~~For Sale
68 Hurst/Olds

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 22:52:19 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Steel-shim vs composite head gaskets.

"Charles A. Dempsey" wrote:
> 
> Hmm. Sorry about the digression, but is it a good idea to make head
> gaskets out of steel? Granted it's cheap, but even if your head/block
> interface is flat and rigid I can't imagine it giving a good seal.

Well certainly a good enough seal.  The stock steel ones are not flat
but rather have raised areas around the cylinders and other holes to
assist with sealing.  I've installed them on used engines before with no
problems.
> 
> I work with some serious vacuum equipment and it uses nice squishable
> solid copper gaskets. Heat doesn't seem to be a factor up to 900 C (1652
> F) and we maintain 10 -6 torr 24 hours X 365 days for years. Wouldn't
> this do the job? Copper is much easier to punch, and the material costs
> would be maybe $0.75 per gasket.

I can think of 2 possibilities but I don't know if either one is the
correct answer.  One is that copper expands and contracts more than
steel so maybe that is a problem.  Could it cause warping or loosen the
bolts?  Donno.  The other thing might be electron transfer between
steel/copper/steel with water and oil.  Perhaps there is a large amount
of resulting corrosion?

> 
> Yah, I guess nobody makes 'em, but why not?
> 
I should mention that some gaskets have copper "rims" around the
cylinders.  The copper is folded over the gasket material.

Some people have mentioned warping, is it a "urban engine legend" that
BMW motorcycles used to be so well machines that you could assemble and
run the motors with no gaskets and get no oil leaks?
- -- 
Cliff "never sure if someone is blowing smoke or not" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 23:10:57 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Different me against the machine shop.

Thanks for the responses Sam, Mike, and Greg.  I tried poking a coat
hanger with a slight bend 2" from the end and I can't get it down.  I'm
still worried though so tomorrow I will pull the tube.  

Like everyone says, if you need to do it then now is the best time,
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 00:18:34 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Shock recommendation?

>I have a 68 Cutlass Supreme/350. It has been lowered 2". Edelbrock
indicates
>they have nothing that will fit. Can some of you pass on some suggestions
for
>shocks that will help keep this car flat in the turns?
>
>Thanks
>Ray

Ray,
I also have a 68 Supreme with a 350.  I have KYB's on it and
it corners nice and flat.  With 235/60R14's on the front the tires
sit about 1/2" above the fenderwell lip.  The KYB's are my
vote for the best gain you can get in handling per $ spent.  I
still have the stock front end and sway bar so I have a little
body lean but not as much as you might imagine.  The ride
is firm but not jarring even on very rough roads.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 00:26:18 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Questions

>2 questions:
>
>1) Can someone explain what is meant by 10 bol and 12 bolt?  It is in
>reference to rear-ends.
>
>2) Is there a way to determine rear-end ratio of a non-posi rear-end
>without actually counting the gears? (Opening the cover and such) 
>People have mentioned turning one wheel and counting revolutions.  Does
>this actually work?

1)  It's how many bolts hold the rear cover onto the rear end.  12 bolts
will have 2 bolts on the bottom side by side while a 10 bolt will have 
one bolt in the center as a quick reference.

2)  My preference is to tape a piece of string to the bottom of the 
driveshaft.  Mark the tire and roll the car forward until the tire does
one revolution.  Count how many times the string goes around the
driveshaft.  This way will eliminate any posi/non-posi questions.  It's
more accurate the more revolutions the tire makes.  For example
roll the car forward until the tire does 3 revolutions and divide the 
number of wraps on the driveshaft by 3.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 01:30:20 EDT
From: Zeilmanns@aol.com
Subject: Firewall Stamps question

I have a dark metallic blue 1969 Olds 4-4-2 w/ light. blue interior.  The VIN 
# is 344879M238073.  It was made in Lansing in 1969. It is has no vinyl roof, 
and came with PS, PB, AC and the standard 4-4-2 package.  The plate on the 
firewall has the following info on it:

ST69  33687LAN237774  BDY
TR933     51    51    PNT

Here are my questions:  
What stamps should be on my firewall (ie. what letters)?
What color were they?
Where should they be placed?

Some fool that had the car before me painted over them all, and I have no way 
of telling.  I have the car in the shop right now, and the guy building the 
engine is being nice enough to let me detail the engine compartment while the 
engine is out, but I don't know what to re-stamp the firewall with.  Anyone 
know?

Regards,

Jeff Zeilmann
'69 4-4-2
'69 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 02:15:48 EDT
From: L69442@aol.com
Subject: subscribe

 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 01:31:59 -0500
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: Re: Roll Call)1/4mile?)

Four42much@aol.com wrote:

>  Shane Gibreal
>  Nebraska
>  '67 Cutlass convertible - 12.92@99mph
>  '67 C/S drag car 730 hp - hopefully on the track in April
>   >>
>  12.92 at ....99?  I dont think so , should be at least 104 or 105 mph
> (unless you are turning 1.2 short times or your car broke something and 
really
> goes 11s and you coasted through the traps)... Just doesnt sound right
> Hot Rod Harry

Hot Rod Harry and list,

I come to you begging for a glimpse into your infinite pool of wisdom.

Just came across this message while emptying my trash folder, don't know how I
missed it the first time.
That is really what my car ran. The 60 ft. time was 1.72 seconds. I think I 
know
what the problem is I just don't know what to do about it. It's a long story so
get comfy.
The engine is a 455 bored .060 over with TRW 10.25cr pistons (9.5-9.75cr with 
80
cc chambers). The heads are C's done by Mondello with his street/strip port job
(mainly exhaust side) with Comp Cams Magnum rockers, cam is a Mondello/Engle
JM-25-28 (.523"  .544"  2800  2920) grind, Torker intake, 850 mechanical 
secondary
Holley that now flows 920 cfm, all backed by a TH-400 and "O" axle posi rear 
end
with 3.90 gears and running Goodyear 29x10.5" slicks at the track, 275/60's 
BFG's
on the street.
Anyway the problem is in high gear the engine doesn't want to rap more than 
about
5200 rpm's. In first and second it will rap as high and as fast as you would 
dare
spin it. I have a brand new Holley manual pump on it that puts out 9 lbs. that 
I
regulated down to 6 or 7 at idle. I called Mondello about it and Lynn said 
that it
sounded like a fuel problem and to add an electric pump to it to help get fuel 
up
to the manual pump. So I added a Holley standard pressure electric pump. That
didn't seem to help, in fact it caused the engine to just flat out die on me
several times, it was either over loading the carb or, some one suggested that 
the
electric pump was causing the diaphragm in the manual pump to flutter and allow
either too much or not enough fuel to get to the carb, it's been a long time I
can't remember which. I kept the pressure regulated the same. So I took off the
electric pump and haven't had the dying problem since.
The only problem I can come up with is that when I degreed the cam I messed up.
Mondello said to advance the cam 20 when installing to allow for chain stretch 
and
after that it would be relatively straight up. So when I installed the cam
(straight up) and checked it with a degree wheel I  kept coming up with 1010, 
the
specs said it should be 1060. I couldn't imagine that the cam was ground that 
far
off, and I was using a Cloyes double roller timing chain so it should have been
accurate. I checked it many times and kept coming up with 1010, who was I to 
argue
with a degree wheel. So to get it as close to 1060 as I could I retarded the 
cam
40 with the crank sprocket on the timing chain, checked it again and it was at
1050, close enough for me.
When I was but a young pup my dad had the baddest car in the tri-city area
(Kearney, Grand Island, Hastings, for my fellow Nebraskans) which also 
happened to
be a '67, but a 442 with a 400 then a 425. The first thing he said when he 
drove
mine for the first time was "Runs real hard, but mine sure seemed to pull 
harder
in high gear (4 spd. stick), this is just falling on it's face around 5000-5500
rpm".
The only thing I can think of trying is to put the cam straight up and see 
what it
does and go from there. This seems to me like it should actually make the 
revving
problem worse because I will be advancing the cam 40. From what I understand 
you
should retard the cam for more top end and advance for more bottom end. I 
already
have way too much bottom end (know what I mean Igor) and no top end. But I've 
got
to start somewhere.
So for those of you that have drudged your way through all my meanderings, I 
leave
it up to the lists infinite wisdom. If anyone has any other idea that may 
point me
in the right direction please help.
I've been so busy with my drag car all winter I haven't had time to attack this
problem yet. I'd really like to get this figured out, there's a pesky 5.0
supercharged Donkey that was really tempting me last summer, and I'm in the 
mood
for "the other red meat".

Shane Gibreal
'67 Cutlass convertible
'67 C/S drag car - soon to hit the track
ICQ #36909992

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 01:35:42 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Mallory Unilite/Ignition Woes

Well my Olds was acting funny so I determined it was the ignition. The car
would idle but it would idle rough at times. The timing was all OK. Under
acceleration the car would feel like it is missing. IT ran good before and
nothing was touched since then. I thought it was the Mallory Unilite
ignition module. So I decided to eliminate the possibilities. I took off
the coil - to - distributor wire and inspected it. The metal portion where
the wire clicks onto the coil terminal was really corroded. IT did not have
any shiny metal on it, it was all rusted out.

My question is: could this have caused the distributor to not get enough
coil voltage to when the vehicle could idle but under acceleration (higher
RMPs) the car would sound like it's missing?  

I will find out tomorrow....
Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 06:52:31 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Birthday Milestone

I understand that longtime list member Tom Lentz is officially eligible
for antique plates today as he celebrates his 30th birthday.... have a
good one Tom!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 06:54:17 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: One wire alternators

Bob is not on the list, respond to rhandren@mpinet.net if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Robert Handren" <rhandren@mpinet.net>
Subject: One wire alternators

I heard from a buddy that one can convert a two wire internal regulated
alternator to a one wire (batt.) version with merely a jumper wire. Do any
of you know how to do this? I have a never used rebuilt internal regulator
alternator I'd like to convert. Makes wiring easier and less prone to
problems. I have one I paid too many bucks for in the 67 442 and love it.

If you can help please make sure any responses come to my e-mail acount, not
just the list.

I appreciate it. My goal is to make enough time to frequent the list once
again. When work allows and I finish the Olds projects.

Thanks!

Bob Handren
rhandren@mpinet.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 06:21:26 -0400
From: "Gregg and Mary Ludlam" <gmrocket@southport.net>
Subject: Re: Compression Ring

>Step 1:  Rent new Intrigue.
>Step 2:  Pull engine out of Beater.
>Step 3:  Pull engine out of Flamer.
>Step 4:  Install Beater engine in Flamer.
>Step 5:  Rebuild bottom end of original Flamer engine.
>Step 6:  Install Flamer engine on stand for reserve. 
>Step 6:  Part out Beater.
>
>Qaplaa!  :)

See?  There you go...

Gregg and Mary Ludlam - Long Beach, NC
'67 Toronado Deluxe/'72 Cutlass S
See the Toro at http://www.442.com/ludlam.html
or at http://www.toronado.org/gregg.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 06:45:26 -0400
From: "Mike McLeod" <mikemcleod@msn.com>
Subject: changing thermostat

When I purchased my car a few months back, one of the things the previous
owner told me was that he put in a 185 degree thermostat. Since I have had
my W-30 I have been careful to monitor the temp gage ( it is the original
temp gage). When driving down the highway the gage gets to around the half
way point or there abouts. It worries me a little to see the gage get above
the halfway point, especially since the air temps have only been in the
seventies. This brings me to my questions. I would like to change my
thermostat. Is 165 degree thermostat a good choice?( By the way I have
already flushed the radiator, probably around a 60/40 mix). Also the
previous owner informed me that when he last changed the thermostat one of
the thermostat hosing threads in the aluminum manifold was brittle and he
had to use something to make the bolt grab. When I pull the thermostat
housing I am now afraid I will not be able to get the housing to hold when I
try to reinstall it. What is a good way to fix the threads if they a
stripped? Can it be rewelded and tapped? Can the hole be redrilled and
tapped for a larger bolt?  Is there a product that will make the bolt grip
if the threads are stripped? The last thing I want to do is change the
thermostat at my house and not be able to fix it, then I may have to pull
the manifold and take it in for repair. Any ideas?

Mike McLeod
70 W-30
97 Aurora

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 05:45:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: "R.Strachan" <creature48212@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: changing thermostat

There is something called a Heli-coil(Spelling?)(any
parts store should have or know where to get one) and
I believe that would work,but these Cutlass experts
might know of a better way to go about it,if the'll
answer(I've had trouble several times getting anwsers)
    
      Rick Detroit MI Sunny!!!
      69 Cutlass 'S'

- --- Mike McLeod <mikemcleod@msn.com> wrote:
> When I purchased my car a few months back, one of
> the things the previous
> owner told me was that he put in a 185 degree
> thermostat. Since I have had
> my W-30 I have been careful to monitor the temp gage
> ( it is the original
> temp gage). When driving down the highway the gage
> gets to around the half
> way point or there abouts. It worries me a little to
> see the gage get above
> the halfway point, especially since the air temps
> have only been in the
> seventies. This brings me to my questions. I would
> like to change my
> thermostat. Is 165 degree thermostat a good choice?(
> By the way I have
> already flushed the radiator, probably around a
> 60/40 mix). Also the
> previous owner informed me that when he last changed
> the thermostat one of
> the thermostat hosing threads in the aluminum
> manifold was brittle and he
> had to use something to make the bolt grab. When I
> pull the thermostat
> housing I am now afraid I will not be able to get
> the housing to hold when I
> try to reinstall it. What is a good way to fix the
> threads if they a
> stripped? Can it be rewelded and tapped? Can the
> hole be redrilled and
> tapped for a larger bolt?  Is there a product that
> will make the bolt grip
> if the threads are stripped? The last thing I want
> to do is change the
> thermostat at my house and not be able to fix it,
> then I may have to pull
> the manifold and take it in for repair. Any ideas?
> 
> Mike McLeod
> 70 W-30
> 97 Aurora
> 
> 
> 
> 

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 06:00:47 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Questions

- --- Mark <greenmm@earthlink.net> wrote:
> 2 questions:
> 
> 1) Can someone explain what is meant by 10 bol and 12 bolt?  It is in
> reference to rear-ends.

10 bolt and 12 bolt refer to the number of bolts on the differential
cover.
  
> 2) Is there a way to determine rear-end ratio of a non-posi rear-end
> without actually counting the gears? (Opening the cover and such) 
> People have mentioned turning one wheel and counting revolutions. 
> Does
> this actually work?
> 
Counting revolutions does work, but generally only for an estimate. 
Also, for a non-posi rear, I believe you have to leave one wheel on the
ground when you do it.  it's difficult to get really accurate (i.e.
telling the difference between a 3.08 and a 3.23 rear), but you can get
a rough estimate.  There are only two ways to get the exact ratio. 
Find the id code on the front of the passenger side axel and look it up
in a book, or pop the cover off and count teeth. 

Good Luck,
Stefan
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
70Cutlass@Beer.com
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 06:02:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: "R.Strachan" <creature48212@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: 442 Bumpers]

I was told that POR-15 only works for a year or so 
by a guy who said he worked with/for a body shop and
all those products don't work at al or not for long.
If this is true ,how should i go about fixing a very
small hole in my floorpan(1/16 hole,but lots of
surface 
rust)?
Can linkage be removed from Q-jets and put on
different
year Q-jet or do you modify the Accel. cable & Detent
cable to work with the current carb.? My 77 Q-jet
linkage is different than the 74 Q-jet linkage and
Detent cable doesn't seem to have a place to hook up
to.Does anybody (understand) have any ideas to help me
out?I'd really appreciate your help.

      Thank You 
      Rick Detroit MI. (Sunny! WOW)
      69 Cutlass 'S'

- --- COUPEKING@aol.com wrote:
> I always use silver or gray POR-15 on the back of
> new bumpers.
> Peter
> coupeking
> 

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 06:04:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Birthday Milestone

Happy birthday Tom! Today is my b-day as well. While I
am not eligible for antique plates it's my first day
of being 21. :-)

- --- Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca> wrote:
> 
> I understand that longtime list member Tom Lentz is
> officially eligible
> for antique plates today as he celebrates his 30th
> birthday.... have a
> good one Tom!
> 
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth,
> Nova Scotia, Canada
> 
> 

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 08:12:45 -0500
From: Chris Smetana <chris@abcs.com>
Subject: Re: Fwd: 442 Bumpers

What kind of paint would you use to do the back of the bumpers???  Just
curious.
Scott

======
Although I've yet to try it, I've heard to blast the backs of the
bumpers and then paint with POR-15 clear.
Incidently, I'll getting my bumpers done by Bob Cline at Deset Dog Auto
Parts too.

Chris Smetana
Terre Haute, IN
http://www.abcs.com/chris/

1969 W-31
1969 4-4-2 parts car
plus other

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 06:15:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Shock recommendation?

Try  http://www.KYB.com  I have KYB shocks in my car, and they improved
the ride significantly.  I'm not sure if they have different shocks
that will work in a lowered vehicle, or if the regular ones will work. 
They have an e-mail where you could probably ask them.  

Stefan
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
70Cutlass@Beer.com
  
- --- FIFTY7C@aol.com wrote:
> I have a 68 Cutlass Supreme/350. It has been lowered 2". Edelbrock
> indicates 
> they have nothing that will fit. Can some of you pass on some
> suggestions for 
> shocks that will help keep this car flat in the turns?
> 
> Thanks
> Ray
> 

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 09:19:59 EDT
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: Re: car shows?

I am from shelton CT.  I have to fly to peachtree city for training.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 06:28:18 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Fwd: 442 Bumpers

I just painted the backs of my bumpers with POR-15 silver.  It looks
fine, but i guess clear would probably be better.  I got my bumpers at
Carlisle last week.  The place that did them is:

            Tri-City Plating
            218 E.Mill Street
            Elizabethton,TN 37643
            Phone# 1-800-251-7536
            Fax# (423)542-9352

They do a prety good job, and the bumpers lave a lifetime guarantee
against rusting or peeling.  The lifetime guarantee is what sold me.



- --- Chris Smetana <chris@abcs.com> wrote:
> What kind of paint would you use to do the back of the bumpers??? 
> Just
> curious.
> Scott
> 
> ======
> Although I've yet to try it, I've heard to blast the backs of the
> bumpers and then paint with POR-15 clear.
> Incidently, I'll getting my bumpers done by Bob Cline at Deset Dog
> Auto
> Parts too.
> 
> Chris Smetana
> Terre Haute, IN
> http://www.abcs.com/chris/
> 
> 1969 W-31
> 1969 4-4-2 parts car
> plus other
> 
> 

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 09:38:45 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: Roll Call)1/4mile?)

> Four42much@aol.com wrote:
> 
> >  Shane Gibreal
> >  Nebraska
> >  '67 Cutlass convertible - 12.92@99mph
> >  '67 C/S drag car 730 hp - hopefully on the track in April
> >   >>
> > 
> That is really what my car ran. The 60 ft. time was 1.72 seconds. I think
I know
> what the problem is I just don't know what to do about it. It's a long
story so
> get comfy.

> I called Mondello about it and Lynn said that it
> sounded like a fuel problem 

Shane.

I am suffering from the same problem with my 70 Conv.  In your case you run
more cam but, except for that we are pretty well the same.
I have had some OLDS people tell me that running the double roller chain,
and a mechanical fuel pump is a no - no.  I have been told that the pump
arm bumps against the chain lifting it from the lobe.  Causing the fuel
pump to work like a fuel regular dropping the pressure at high rpms.
I am told to just run an electric pump with no mechanical pump, but just a
good regulator.  That this should fix my problem.
I have another question for ya.  What type of ignition are you running,
more exactly I figure you are some type of aftermarket high voltage system,
what I am wondering is when you wired up the ignition did you use the
factory ignition wire or unplug the factory wire and run a new one.
Where I am going with this is, I have seen a lot of cars including me at
first, run the factory ignition wire, forgetting its a resistor wire.  They
run the GM wire into their ballast resistor which lowers the final output. 
To a voltage that will run the car at low rpm's just fine but won't allow
the car to rev over 4500 approximately.
I did this myself when I first wired up my Mallory Unilite.  After that
when I dragged the car I only got 14's but when I found the problem and ran
a non resistor wire I dropped to 13.5's 
I still have a fuel problem, cause I also run too slow 13.52@96 mph.
Just some suggestions that might help.

Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 08:31:00 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: 442 Bumpers]

Por-15 works pretty well but to fix your hole just weld it up with a mig
welder then coat the floor pan with POR-15 or rustoleum either works
great...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: R.Strachan <creature48212@yahoo.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 8:02 AM
Subject: Re: [Fwd: 442 Bumpers]


> I was told that POR-15 only works for a year or so
> by a guy who said he worked with/for a body shop and
> all those products don't work at al or not for long.
> If this is true ,how should i go about fixing a very
> small hole in my floorpan(1/16 hole,but lots of
> surface
> rust)?
> Can linkage be removed from Q-jets and put on
> different
> year Q-jet or do you modify the Accel. cable & Detent
> cable to work with the current carb.? My 77 Q-jet
> linkage is different than the 74 Q-jet linkage and
> Detent cable doesn't seem to have a place to hook up
> to.Does anybody (understand) have any ideas to help me
> out?I'd really appreciate your help.
>
>       Thank You
>       Rick Detroit MI. (Sunny! WOW)
>       69 Cutlass 'S'
>
> --- COUPEKING@aol.com wrote:
> > I always use silver or gray POR-15 on the back of
> > new bumpers.
> > Peter
> > coupeking
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 08:40:38 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Questions

actually it has nothing to do with the cover bolts that is merely a
coincidence it has to do with the number of bolts holding the ring gear to
the carrier the 12 bolt c axle has 12 the 10 bolt has 10
but the 12 O style has 12 on the cover and 10 on the gear
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Bloomer <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 12:26 AM
Subject: Re: Questions


> >2 questions:
> >
> >1) Can someone explain what is meant by 10 bol and 12 bolt?  It is in
> >reference to rear-ends.
> >
> >2) Is there a way to determine rear-end ratio of a non-posi rear-end
> >without actually counting the gears? (Opening the cover and such)
> >People have mentioned turning one wheel and counting revolutions.  Does
> >this actually work?
>
> 1)  It's how many bolts hold the rear cover onto the rear end.  12 bolts
> will have 2 bolts on the bottom side by side while a 10 bolt will have
> one bolt in the center as a quick reference.
>
> 2)  My preference is to tape a piece of string to the bottom of the
> driveshaft.  Mark the tire and roll the car forward until the tire does
> one revolution.  Count how many times the string goes around the
> driveshaft.  This way will eliminate any posi/non-posi questions.  It's
> more accurate the more revolutions the tire makes.  For example
> roll the car forward until the tire does 3 revolutions and divide the
> number of wraps on the driveshaft by 3.
>
> Mike Bloomer
> mbloomer@mindspring.com
> ICQ# 19113713
> http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 06:43:49 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Birthday Milestone

Happy Bith Day to BOTH of you.  You're both reaching milestones!  Have
fun.  Don't Sweat it.

Stefan 
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
70Cutlass@Beer.com

- --- Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com> wrote:
> Happy birthday Tom! Today is my b-day as well. While I
> am not eligible for antique plates it's my first day
> of being 21. :-)
> 
> --- Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca> wrote:
> > 
> > I understand that longtime list member Tom Lentz is
> > officially eligible
> > for antique plates today as he celebrates his 30th
> > birthday.... have a
> > good one Tom!
> > 
> > Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth,
> > Nova Scotia, Canada
> > 
> > 
> 
> ===
> Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> rockman20@yahoo.com
> 1986 Honda Accord DX
> 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
> 1981 John Deer Snowmobile
> 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
> 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
> 
> 

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 09:07:49 -0500
From: jwt441@ibm.net
Subject: 66 cutlass chrome and clips

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BE9156.9677C840
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Any info on where chrome pieces and clips for a 66 cutlass could be =
purchased would br appreciated. JIM
                  Jwt441@ibm.net


- ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BE9156.9677C840
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Any info on where chrome pieces and =
clips for a=20
66 cutlass could be purchased </FONT><FONT color=3D#000000 =
size=3D2>would br=20
appreciated. JIM</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000=20
size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=20
<A href=3D"mailto:Jwt441@ibm.net">Jwt441@ibm.net</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BE9156.9677C840--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 10:17:42 -0400
From: "Mike McLeod" <mikemcleod@msn.com>
Subject: Re: determining rear end ratio

Greg,
    Maybe the person counting the revolutions was a little off when he said
almost 3 and a half. It probably is a 3.23 then cause my car does have air.
Thanks


- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, April 27, 1999 11:28 PM
Subject: Re: determining rear end ratio


Mike McLeod wrote:
>
> <snip> My rearend is stamped
> SF( going by memory,think that is right).


Mike,

The SF code is a 3.23 Anti-Spin.  In the case of
your 1970 W-30, 3.23's were only available when
equipped with air cond.  Which was only available
with the TH400.


> <more snip> I have a lot more questions, but if I ask
> some of them they may sound stupid,

As someone else said, the only stupid questions, are the
ones not asked.

<further snip>
> but I LOVE my
> Oldsmobiles.

That's all that matters!  Ask away.


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Web Site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 10:28:53 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: Roll Call)1/4mile?)

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Shane <sgibreal@nctc.net>
To: Olds' List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 2:31 AM
Subject: Re: Roll Call)1/4mile?)

<Snip>

> That is really what my car ran. The 60 ft. time was 1.72 seconds. I think
I know
> what the problem is I just don't know what to do about it. It's a long
story so
> get comfy.
> The engine is a 455 bored .060 over with TRW 10.25cr pistons (9.5-9.75cr
with 80
> cc chambers). The heads are C's done by Mondello with his street/strip
port job
> (mainly exhaust side) with Comp Cams Magnum rockers, cam is a
Mondello/Engle
> JM-25-28 (.523"  .544"  2800  2920) grind, Torker intake, 850 mechanical
secondary
> Holley that now flows 920 cfm, all backed by a TH-400 and "O" axle posi

rear end
> with 3.90 gears and running Goodyear 29x10.5" slicks at the track,
275/60's BFG's
> on the street.

First point. I believe you need even go lower in this rear. You should be
dialing in your system to max available RPM right at the 1/4 mile. I doubt
the 3.90 are doing that. I'd jump up on this gearing to something slightly
over 4.11 like 4.23 if available. Of course your launch will be a whole new
experience in patiance but you'll get closer to top engine RPM ability. At
3.90 gears you have to much motor levt and no track to wind it out. Compound
it with my next answer an yeah your styfling the engine.

> Anyway the problem is in high gear the engine doesn't want to rap more
than about
> 5200 rpm's. In first and second it will rap as high and as fast as you
would dare
> spin it. I have a brand new Holley manual pump on it that puts out 9 lbs.
that I
> regulated down to 6 or 7 at idle. I called Mondello about it and Lynn said
that it
> sounded like a fuel problem and to add an electric pump to it to help get
fuel up
> to the manual pump. So I added a Holley standard pressure electric pump.
That
> didn't seem to help, in fact it caused the engine to just flat out die on
me

Wow here, your running an electric pump pre the mechanical one. Of course
your having diaphram flutter. The mechanical is designed not top have
positive preasure on the intake side. Pick your pump, one pump.  I would go
the electric route at 9 psi with say a 55 gph rate that use a regulator to
bring it down to your required opperating psi.

> several times, it was either over loading the carb or, some one suggested
that the
> electric pump was causing the diaphragm in the manual pump to flutter and
allow
> either too much or not enough fuel to get to the carb, it's been a long
time I
> can't remember which. I kept the pressure regulated the same. So I took
off the
> electric pump and haven't had the dying problem since.
> The only problem I can come up with is that when I degreed the cam I
messed up.
> Mondello said to advance the cam 20 when installing to allow for chain
stretch and
> after that it would be relatively straight up. So when I installed the cam
> (straight up) and checked it with a degree wheel I  kept coming up with
1010, the
> specs said it should be 1060. I couldn't imagine that the cam was ground
that far
> off, and I was using a Cloyes double roller timing chain so it should have
been
> accurate. I checked it many times and kept coming up with 1010, who was I
to argue
> with a degree wheel. So to get it as close to 1060 as I could I retarded
the cam
> 40 with the crank sprocket on the timing chain, checked it again and it
was at
> 1050, close enough for me.
> When I was but a young pup my dad had the baddest car in the tri-city area
> (Kearney, Grand Island, Hastings, for my fellow Nebraskans) which also
happened to
> be a '67, but a 442 with a 400 then a 425. The first thing he said when he
drove
> mine for the first time was "Runs real hard, but mine sure seemed to pull
harder
> in high gear (4 spd. stick), this is just falling on it's face around
5000-5500
> rpm".
>
> Shane Gibreal
> '67 Cutlass convertible
> '67 C/S drag car - soon to hit the track
> ICQ #36909992

I can't help you with the cam aspects as I just learning here to.
Gary....


 -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ---
"Windows-98 is a 32 bit extension and Graphical shell
for a 16 bit patch to an 8 bit operating system originally
coded for a 4 bit microprocessor, written by a 2 bit
company, that can't stand 1 bit of competition."
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ---

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 7:13 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: Wate? was:Rainy Day Doggie

From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
<snipped>
>All of this rain/humidity talk is confusing me.  My car runs BETTER 
>on cool rainy days.  I'm serious, I get a definite increase in power. 
>On cool dry days, this doesn't happen.  Is my car just really messed 
>up or something?
>
>Stefan
_____________________________________________________

I think it's just that rain or humidity changes the air/fuel ratio 
that your carb meters, and depending on whether your carb was slightly 
lean or slightly rich to start with the humidity might make the car 
run either better or worse. IMHO it's no cause for alarm.

Some  cynic once said something to the effect that "a carburetor is an 
incredibly complex device that delivers exactly the wrong air/fuel 
ratio under all conditons of load and rpm".  You know, he kinda had a 
point! Carbs usually get close, but unless you have precise tuning 
devices, the patience of a saint, and a fanatic enthusiasm for 
continual tuning, it's very rare for a carb to actually deliver 
exactly what the engine wants at all times. That's why EFI can do 
better than carbs can when you factor in widely changing loads, 
speeds, and environmental conditions.

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 7:39 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: buyers everywhere - not in L.A.!

I guess Los Angeles really is a different world. Not a single soul 
(other than my wife and friends) has made any kind of comment to me 
regarding my '72 Supreme, much less wanted to buy it. Around here 
unless you own a gigantic, lumbering, underpowered SUV or else a
BMW 7-series or Mercedes S-class no one pays attention to your 
vehicle.  Fortunately I don't own my car for anyone else's admiration, 
but because I enjoy driving it.

A while ago there was a post about every fifth car on the road being 
an Olds, another thing that's not true around L.A.; my guess is that 
it's more like every 50th car here. I just took a look at the parking 
lot by my office, must be 100 cars there, not ONE Olds to be seen. 
There are enough Honda's to make a person puke, though.

My '73 RoadRunner has got a few comments over the years, though no 
offers to buy; with the primer paint job, hood bulge, and aggressive 
styling that drips testosterone, a few folks have asked me "what kind 
of car is that?". 

My officemate has a '64 El Camino, and he is besieged with offers to 
buy every time he goes near a drive-thu.  I think this identifies the 
problem; in LA the only kinds of cars that are consired cool are 
expensive foreign toys and old Chevies.

Keeps the prices of Oldsmobiles down, wonderful!

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 07:48:49 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Tail lamps out

> I can tell you from recently having the entire interior ripped out
> of my 68 and just checking the harness in the trunk that there is no
> connector.  My 72 had one but the 68 has the harness running
> continuously from the fuse panel to the light sockets.  Big harness!

Good grief! No wonder they went to a segmented design later. And I 
suspect its long length might have had something to do with their 
changing to solid-core stuff (which looked like aluminum to me, 
although the last time I studied it I was upside down in the trunk of 
a Buick at the time :-) in place of plain old stranded wire.

So anyway, I still think sequential testing of the wires should turn 
up the problem pretty quick, especially if the '68 has even fewer 
connectors in it than the later cars.

- -- Andy

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 10:56:56 -0400
From: ladowning@papl.com
Subject: 88 OLDS Delta Window

My 88 Olds Delta passenger side power window has failed to operate--the motor 
seems to be working fine and the window is still fimly secured to the 
tracking--I removed the door interior but can do little more than get one hand 
inside and can not see any apparent broken pieces--I can pull the window up 
manually but closing of the door causes it to drop back down in the door--the 
power switch 'down' will retract the window but the 'up' switch just results 
in a huming from the motor and no window movement.  Can anyone help with this 
problem?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 07:57:25 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: What EGR?

> If I do the squeeze test, the EGR works fine, but under vacuum
> vacuum (you must have backpressure in a Positive type EGR valve
> to make it open) with my new vacuum pump, it will not open.

Um, I might be taking this too much out of context, but you can't test 
a ported EGR with a vacuum pump; you need a steady vacuum draw such as 
that of a running engine. The last pump I replaced came with big nasty 
warnings about that, most likely to guard against misleading results 
by anyone trying to bench-test a new one with a hand pump at the auto 
parts store.

- -- Andy

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 08:05:05 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Cruise Control diagnosis

> So, here the deal. 76 Cutlass. Factory cruise. Push switch under
> dash, orange light illuminates encouragingly. At 60, push switch
> on end of  turn signal stalk, nothing happens. 

I think I'd want to verify that you've got good vacuum going to the 
servo and to the modulator under the hood. Check that all the hoses 
are intact under the hood and in the dash, since a leak anywhere can 
bleed off plenty. (If the car can't blow air through the dash vents 
using the VENT setting, that's usually a good sign that the vacuum is 
leaking somewhere.)

If that checks out, the servo may be fine (a vacuum pump can test it) 
but the modulator on the left front wheel housing is probably toast. 
If pulling another one at the junkyard, keep any extra rubber-isolated 
mounting bolts for it that you can remove in one piece, to replace the 
ones that shear off when they get old.

- -- Andy

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 11:12:05 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: buyers everywhere - not in L.A.!


I guess Los Angeles really is a different world. Not a single soul
(other than my wife and friends) has made any kind of comment to me
regarding my '72 Supreme, much less wanted to buy it....
________

Yep.  While LA is the center of the automotive universe, that also means that
the populace is pretty jaded when it comes to cars.  I'll never forget one 
night
when I was driving down Imperial Highway near LAX, and I passed a Shell station
with not one, but _two_ Lamborgini Countaches getting gassed up...

Gratuitous Olds Content:

Speaking of head turning, we got a few looks recently when I relocated my fleet
to the new farm.  The first pass had the H/O and the 68 W-30 on trailers, the
second trip featured the 66 convert and the 69 442 on trailers with the 70 W-30
(driven by our own Brent Pinkstaff) in the rocking chair slot.

Thanks again to Brent and Ray Moriarty for their help.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 8:10 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: copper gaskets do exist (was: steel shim vs composite gasket

Charles A. Dempsey wrote
<snipped>
...I work with some serious vacuum equipment and it uses nice 
squishable solid copper gaskets. Heat doesn't seem to be a factor up 
to 900 C (1652 F) and we maintain 10 -6 torr 24 hours X 365 days for 
years. Wouldn't this do the job? Copper is much easier to punch, and 
the material costs would be maybe $0.75 per gasket.
Yah, I guess nobody makes 'em, but why not?

Charles
________________________________________

Actually somebody does make solid copper head gaskets. The ones I've 
seen have been intended for Mopar engines, for drag-racing use only, 
with frequent teardowns, and I've heard that they are not durable 
enough for street use. I don't know why, anyone else?

One other thing, I used to work in a lab. that used high-vacuum 
equipment too, and I've used those solid copper gaskets. The 
stainless-steel flanges that the gaskets went between had knife-edges 
machined into the mating surfaces, in order to put high enough 
pressure on the copper to bite into it, and the larger flanges (around 
10" diameter) had some 25 bolts all round the periphery, spaced barely 
more than an inch apart, in order to get enough clamping force to cut 
into those copper gaskets. I doubt that a V8 head with only 10 or 17 
bolts (4 bolts/cylinder like Olds and 5 bolts per cylinder like Mopar 
BB respectively) and no knife-edges could create enough clamping force 
to work well with copper.

I'd also guess that 75c is a lot more than the manufacturers actually 
pay for the steel-shim gasket. When you sell a million cars, a 50c 
saving per car translates into $500,000 in profits.....

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 11:20:00 -0400
From: rmoriarty@blairinc.com
Subject: Northern Virginia Olds Show

The Capitol City Rockets
Spring Dust-Off
Car Show and Swap Meet

10:00am to 3:00pm Sunday May 2,1999

At Stohlman Oldsmobile
200 South Pickett Street
Alexandria, VA

This is not a judged show. It is open to _all_ Oldsmobiles, projects to trailer
queens. There will be food and a D.J.. Swap meet spaces are available. Contact
Jim Stohlman at 703-751-9100 to reserve your space.



So, who from the list is going to be there?

Ray

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 12:21:06 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Backside of Bumpers

I used that clear "chipseal" coating (usually found on rocker panels and
door bottoms) on the backside of mine... seems to have worked fine so far
(4 years+).

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
 ---- Olds List Admin Instructions found at: http://unsub.tsx.org ----
                http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 11:21:46 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: 88 OLDS Delta Window

Sounds like the window has popped out of it's bottom lift track. Or the
lever that connects from motor to this track has become disconnected
(probable). This assumes that when you manually lift the window it lifts
evenly and doesn't tilt front to rear un evenly. Any tilting of the window
in the side tracks suggests the little plastic clip on the window bottom has
broken off. Though this wouldn't nessicarrily have anything to do with your
curent problem but is yet another related problem that is simply fixed if
you windows utalize there stabilizers. Any way you look at it you need get
in the door as best as possible. Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ------------------------------
"Windows-98 is a 32 bit extension and Graphical shell
for a 16 bit patch to an 8 bit operating system originally
coded for a 4 bit microprocessor, written by a 2 bit
company, that can't stand 1 bit of competition."
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -------------------------------
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <ladowning@papl.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 10:56 AM
Subject: 88 OLDS Delta Window


> My 88 Olds Delta passenger side power window has failed to operate--the
motor seems to be working fine and the window is still fimly secured to the
tracking--I removed the door interior but can do little more than get one
hand inside and can not see any apparent broken pieces--I can pull the
window up manually but closing of the door causes it to drop back down in
the door--the power switch 'down' will retract the window but the 'up'
switch just results in a huming from the motor and no window movement.  Can
anyone help with this problem?
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 11:28:30 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: buyers everywhere - not in L.A.!

>Gratuitous Olds Content:
>
>Speaking of head turning, we got a few looks recently when I relocated my
fleet
>to the new farm.  The first pass had the H/O and the 68 W-30 on trailers, the
>second trip featured the 66 convert and the 69 442 on trailers with the 70
W-30
>(driven by our own Brent Pinkstaff) in the rocking chair slot.
>
>Thanks again to Brent and Ray Moriarty for their help.
>
>Joe Padavano
>padavano.joe@orbital.com
>
>66 442
>68 W-30
>69 H/O
>69 442
>70 W-30
>



Rub it in Joe. Yea we are still all jealous! :)

Omega Man
2 rusty '74 Omegas (take that)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 11:38:36 -0400
From: Nikolaj Richers <nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca>
Subject: Re: Questions

> 2) Is there a way to determine rear-end ratio of a non-posi rear-end
> without actually counting the gears? (Opening the cover and such) 
> People have mentioned turning one wheel and counting revolutions.  Does
> this actually work?

You can also look at what your tach reads at a given speed, calculate
the tire circumference, see how far your rear wheels travel at that
speed in a minute, divide by tire circumference, and divide the engine
RPM by that. Remember to account for the overdrive, if you have one.

I calculated my ratio to be 2.79:1, which is darn close to what the car
probably has, a 2.73:1. 

Big advantage: armchair (car seat) measurement. No need to go turn
anything that isn't already turning by itself. No need to get on your
(achy) knees. Only works if your speedo and tach are relatively
accurate. It seemed to work out for me.

	Nikolaj
	'85 Olds Eighty-Eight

- -- 
Nikolaj Richers, Toronto, Canada; nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 8:35 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: determining rear end ratio

Mike McLeod wrote:
<snipped>
>........I marked the rear tire with a piece of chalk and continued 
>that mark to  the frame ( to give me a point of reference). I turned 
>the tire one revolution while another person counted the revolutions 
>of the drive shaft ( I did not mark a reference point on the shaft). 
>The person counting the revolutions of the shaft said " it went over 
>3 and a half times, almost".

>.........I was wondering if this is a fairly accurate way to figure 
>my rear end ratio? Any and all comments would be helpful. I have a 
>lot more questions, but if I ask some of them they may sound stupid, 
>I am not a good mechanic but I LOVE my Oldsmobiles.
_________________________________________________________

I had a teacher once who said that the only stupid questions were the 
ones we didn't ask, because that way we would never learn the 
answer.......

Usually when I pluck up the courage to ask a "stupid" question I find 
that quite a few other people had been wanting to ask the same 
question, and they too benefit from whatever answer I get!

To answer your question, the method you used will work, but there are 
strings attached. For the answer to be correct, both rear wheels must 
turn together by exactly the same amount. If you have a posi rear then 
the posi action will tend to lock the wheels together, and if you jack 
up both rear wheels so that they are both free to turn, then your 
method  will give the right answer.

If you have a non-posi rear, it is very hard to make both wheels turn 
the same amount, so a better way is to leave one tire on the ground 
and jack up only the other one. Count the driveshaft and wheel 
rotations as before, divide driveshaft rotations/wheel rotations, then 
DOUBLE the answer to get your rearend ratio. The doubling is because 
of the way a differential works when one wheel is stopped, the other 
one will turn twice as fast as usual, acting as though you had only 
half as many teeth on the ring-gear.

If you have a non-posi rearend and you lift both wheels off the 
ground, but only turn one, then all bets are off and you'll have to 
repeat the measurement with one wheel on the ground.

By the way, if you have a posi rear, DON'T leave one wheel on the 
ground and try to turn the other, it will resist turning.

When using this method to measure rearend ratio, rather than rotate 
the wheel just once, a somewhat more accurate method is to put chalk 
reference marks on both one wheel and the driveshaft, and then keep 
rotating the wheel until both wheel and driveshaft reference marks 
line up again, counting the # of rotations of both the driveshaft and 
the wheel. The reason for keeping on turning until all 4 marks line up 
is to make both the wheel and the driveshaft turn an integer number of 
turns rather than a fractional number, simply because it is hard to 
tell what the fraction is without having a degree wheel on the part. 
Lets assume you have a sure-grip rear and both tires off the ground to 
avoid complicating the issue. Now if you have a 3.23 ratio, it is hard 
to tell when the driveshaft has turned 3.23 times. But 4 x 3.23 works 
out to 12.92, which is nearly thirteen, so if you keep turning the 
driveshaft until all 4 marks (nearly) line up, you will find that the 
driveshaft has turned 13 times and the wheels 4 times, so divide that 
out and you'll get 3.25 which is pretty close to the right answer.


- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1930
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