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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1987


oldsmobile-digest        Monday, May 31 1999        Volume 01 : Number 1987



Trailer Towing with my Delta
Olds Power in Indy......
Black Oxide. Was Rear Control Arm questions.
Good Transmission Shops in D.C.
Re: Good Transmission Shops in D.C.--more info
Fender patch panels
'68 350 budget power
Oldsmobile parts
Re: My 85 Cutlass burns oil and blue smoke comes out of tailpipe
Re: where to put speakers 68 442 Rag
Re: My 85 Cutlass burns oil and blue smoke comes out of tailpipe
Re: <13.00's
307 EGR Vacuum Line Routing 
Re: Olds Power in Indy......
Cool Can (How to???)
Re: Cool Can (How to???)
F/S '71 442
330 auto crank and heads
Sunday night musings 
Re: Sunday night musings 
Need advice
Re: Sunday night musings 
Re: Sunday night musings 
Re: Need advice
Re: Sunday night musings
Re: Sunday night musings
Re: where to put speakers 68 442 Rag 
Re: Need advice
dot 5 brake fluid
Chicago meet
Re: <13.00's
Re: dot 5 brake fluid
Re: Cool Can (How to???)
Re: '68 350 budget power
Re: dot 5 brake fluid
Re: Trailer Towing with my Delta
Jetstar 88 was: Sunday night musings 
DOT 5 break fluid
Bi-annual plug for Perf Prof was: '68 350 budget power
Re: Fender patch panels
Re: '68 350 budget power
Re: Warm Running conditions
Re: Need advice
leaded Olds
Re: My 85 Cutlass burns oil and blue smoke comes out of tailpipe
Re: Jetstar 88 was: Sunday night musings
Re: leaded Olds
Mega-Show
Re: dot 5 brake fluid
Not this C. Witt
42 Volt systems coming
very Confused.
Re: 307 EGR Vacuum Line Routing 
Re: My 85 Cutlass burns oil and blue smoke comes out of tailpipe
Re: '68 350 budget power

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 16:18:18 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Trailer Towing with my Delta

Me and my dad have been looking at some new trailers today.  We would like
to get something in the 23 to 24" range and it would be a new trailer so I
assume light (don't know much about them).  They are called Wanderer Lite.
I was just wondering if you guys think that my 455 Delta could tow one of
these trailers without much problems.  What would be the maximum weight I
could tow with that car.  It has a bottom end 455, th400 and 3.23 posi
gears.  I could go to 3.43s or 3.73s if necessary but would like to remain
3.23 for fuel economy.  Although the 3.73s could help me at the track..:-)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 17:35:33 -0700
From: Andy Lawrence <lawrencj@coral.indstate.edu>
Subject: Olds Power in Indy......

Nothin but Olds Power in front at INDY today........Give it to Olds coming in
first......

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 23:08:45 -0500
From: "Charles A. Dempsey" <cdemps@lsumc.edu>
Subject: Black Oxide. Was Rear Control Arm questions.

Dan Williams <442much@home.com> wrote:

> I know the rear bolts are black oxide finished..... The original
> finish is more of a dull-powdery black.

Could someone comment on the various oxide and phosphate metal finishes?
I am aware of several types which are used on military firearms and
equipment, and called Parkerizing. WW II M1 Carbines were Parkerized a
sort of dull olive green/grey. Later finishes ranged from ash grey to
almost black. This finish is quite different from the "blueing" used on
sporting arms.

Several companies (Brownells etc) offer (expensive) Parkerizing kits,
but the recipe seems to be a semi-secret. I've searched high and low for
a number of years, and I have never been able to find a recipe for
Parkerizing or other similar finishes. Manganese and/or other metal
phosphate appear to be part of the process.

Anybody know the process?

Charles (who'd like to Parkerize his whole bloody car)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 18:46:41 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Good Transmission Shops in D.C.

Hello All,

Well, I went cruisin' last night.  No road warrior stuff, just smooth
cruisin'.  Anyhow, as I'm doing about 55, I decelerated to merge, then
accelerated again to get into the lane I wanted.  As I accelerated
again, the car felts like it's only sorta pulling...the engine just
revved. It's like the tranny was in neutral, but I didn't hear any
unusual noises, feel any strange  vibrations...nothing.  Just minimal
forward pull.  Well, I fiddled with the gear shift (column mount) and it
seemed to be okay.  That may be coincidence, though.

Well, I checked the transmission fluid today, and it was a bit
dark...not brown, but not the fresh red color, either.

So, in the event my transmission has burnt, who knows of a reputable
transmission shop in the D.C. area.  I do not have time to fix it
myself.  In fact, I'll barely have time to just pull the transmission.
I appreciate any advice, both regarding a good shop, or other things to
check.  Thanks, ya'll

- --
Thomas P. Smith
  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/dual exhaust/
        sometimes Q-Jet, sometimes Holley/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 18:55:40 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Good Transmission Shops in D.C.--more info

Sorry, but I neglected some pertinent info.  The car in question is the
Cutlass in my signature block below.  Also, when I said it seemed to be
"okay" when I fiddled with the gear shift, I mean the transmission seemed to
resume normal operation.  Again, this may only be coincidence.  I noticed
the same problem earlier the same night when going down a hill.  I was
coasting down the hill, then tried to accelerate down the hill, but the
engine just revved...no pull.  Within seconds it was okay.  Sorry for having
to put in an addendum.  Thanks, again.

> Hello All,
>
> Well, I went cruisin' last night.  No road warrior stuff, just smooth
> cruisin'.  Anyhow, as I'm doing about 55, I decelerated to merge, then
> accelerated again to get into the lane I wanted.  As I accelerated
> again, the car felts like it's only sorta pulling...the engine just
> revved. It's like the tranny was in neutral, but I didn't hear any
> unusual noises, feel any strange  vibrations...nothing.  Just minimal
> forward pull.  Well, I fiddled with the gear shift (column mount) and it
> seemed to be okay.  That may be coincidence, though.
>
> Well, I checked the transmission fluid today, and it was a bit
> dark...not brown, but not the fresh red color, either.
>
> So, in the event my transmission has burnt, who knows of a reputable
> transmission shop in the D.C. area.  I do not have time to fix it
> myself.  In fact, I'll barely have time to just pull the transmission.
> I appreciate any advice, both regarding a good shop, or other things to
> check.  Thanks, ya'll

- --
Thomas P. Smith
  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/dual exhaust/
        sometimes Q-Jet, sometimes Holley/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 18:48:15 -0500
From: tj <tj1852@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Fender patch panels

Hi all

I have found someone I trust to work on my '71 culass "s," and am going
to have some rust repair done on the area behind the rear wheels before
I have paint applied.  I know that there are quarter panel "skins"
available for these cars from vendors such as year 1, but does anyone
know if there is a patch panel, such as those used on the front fenders,
available for the rear of this car?  I think that the body shop can
repair this damage without them, but I wanted to give the guy the option
of using them if he wants to AND if they are available.  I am
particularly concerned with him getting the contour right so that the
wheel opening molding will fit as it should.

Also, how hard is it to remove the front fenders and hood myself?  I am
toying with the idea of removing them before I deliver the car to the
shop, and then reinstalling them afterwards myself.  I have already
removed bumpers, grilles, trim, interior, front and rear windows etc.
and am pretty much left with a shell with a dashboard in it.

Any advice? 

Thanks for your help,

Tim

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 19:48:14 EDT
From: FIFTY7C@aol.com
Subject: '68 350 budget power

I have a stock 350, 310HP. I would like to hear from people who have modified 
this engine with out breaking the bank. What seemed to be the best bang for 
the buck?

I am assuming that replacing the 2.73's in the rear would help dramaticaly. 
What do Ineed to know to replace them? 
Thanks for any ideas.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 20:47:47 -0700
From: Jean <granny@gisco.net>
Subject: Oldsmobile parts

Dear Sir,
 I am looking for center link,an idler arm, for a 1964 Oldsmobile
Jetstar 88 Convertable and also rear bumper. If you know where I can get
these things, please e-mail me at granny@gisco.net My name is
John.Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 20:49:10 EDT
From: Moparrp@aol.com
Subject: Re: My 85 Cutlass burns oil and blue smoke comes out of tailpipe

if it ain't leaking and smoking it's not an olds

you need to rebuild

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 21:31:15 -0400
From: "Rob Lewis" <fever@planeteer.com>
Subject: Re: where to put speakers 68 442 Rag

Good idea.How is the sound.
Was it easy or a hassle?
Thanks 
 

- ----------
> From: KASOLDS@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: where to put speakers 68 442 Rag
> Date: Sunday, May 30, 1999 11:38 AM
> 
> In a message dated 5/29/99 8:24:12 PM Central Daylight Time, 
> fever@planeteer.com writes:
> 
> << Don't want to hurt or change anything.
>  I would like to put some sound in the car.AM only.
>  I'll mount the player in the glove box.
>  But I need  ideas on where to put speakers.
>  68 442 Rag 
>  Thanks  >>
> 
> 	I just mounted a cd player in my glove box yesterday.  My car has a 
> factory AM radio and mono speaker.  I too did not want to modify the 
> apperance of anything.  So I mounted 2 three or four inch speakers,
facing 
> the floor, on the bottom side of the dash.  I found a few holes on each
side 
> to mount them to.  Each speaker is only held by one bolt, but they seem 
> pretty secure and they dont rattle.  None of this can be seen by looking
in 
> the car or sitting in the car.  Hope this helps.  Good luck.
> Keith 70 442

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 21:38:28 -0400
From: "Rob Lewis" <fever@planeteer.com>
Subject: Re: My 85 Cutlass burns oil and blue smoke comes out of tailpipe

What's with the Mopar.
On an Olds page.

- ----------
> From: Moparrp@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: My 85 Cutlass burns oil and blue smoke comes out of tailpipe
> Date: Sunday, May 30, 1999 8:49 PM
> 
> if it ain't leaking and smoking it's not an olds
> 
> you need to rebuild

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 21:41:31 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: <13.00's

What was your oil pressure ?
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: <13.00's
> Date: Sunday, May 30, 1999 5:04 PM
> 
> Good afternoon everyone,
> 
>         12's ARE possible on 15x7 inch wheel with a 275/60-15 DOT legal
"drag
> tire". My 67 W-30 went 12.58@107 with a NHRA stock 400. Now the engine
had
> about $3500 worth of work done to it. This engine, if tore down would
have
> passed a NHRA technical inspection for being stock. Engine was nowhere
near
> stock. Cam was a Cam Dynamics .474 lift (rest of specs engine builder
would not
> reveal, NASTY IDLE!). The engine was .060 over, balanced, blueprinted (on
the
> loose side) mains were just over .003 clearance, rods were .0025
clearance,
> pistons were forged Ross flatops with .005 wall clearance, deck clearance
was
> .002. All rods were bushed to achieve that exact clearance. Heads were
CC'd to
> 71.3 cc each chamber, 3 angle valve job (accepted) all valve stem heights
were
> within .002 of each other. We used factory replacement W-30 valve springs
and
> steel retainers. There was NO port work done to them.  The distributor
was
> recurved for a total of 37 degrees all in at IDLE. There were NO springs
on the
> centrifical distributor advance. We had no problem with starting. This
gave the
> car unbelievable throttle response. Let me know if you want to know  more
about
> it. This engine was done by Danny Lattimore who also holds the D stock
record
> for an Olds running 10.88.
> 
> Jim Chermack
> 66 W-30 F-85 Post Coupe 
> 
> At 11:44 AM 5/30/1999 , you wrote: 
> >
> > Good morning listers,
> >  
> > I'm pulling my motor to rebuild.  Is anyone running a basically stock
chassis
> > with 14x7 rims on street tires in an A body and dipping into the 12's? 
Is
> > this a pipe dream?  I'm looking for a formula that works (without
squeeze). 
> > I want to run on motor only.
> >  
> > Dreaming on a Sunday morning........
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 23:03:18 -0400
From: EJ <oldsluvr@bellatlantic.net>
Subject: 307 EGR Vacuum Line Routing 

I'm in need of the *proper* vacuum line routing for the EGR on my 85
Toro. Can't look at my 84 Calais since it's long gone from there. I know
the EGR is supposed to run off/thru a little black combination CCC
related electrical/vacuum box. I've got a ping that I could never get
rid of since I got the car, and the EGR was always disconnected, so
maybe thats' the culprit ????.(new plugs, wires, 92 octane, etc). The
box would appear to be hooked up, but none of the lines coming out of it
are directly or indirectly running to the EGR valve, nor are there any
loose or disconnected lines laying around that should have a home.

I've got an 84' shop manual, but it isn't shedding too much light on
this subject. 

Anybody have a *detailed* vacuum diagram, or could someone tell me how
theirs' is set up ?

Not sure about pre-84' 307's but the 85' set up seems to be the same as
the 84' according to the book.

TIA

EJ

- -- 
"EJ"  In Hamilton Township, New Jersey, suburb of Trenton
On digest where availabile, not regular mail
http://members.tripod.com/Olds_luvr/photoalbum/photoalbum/index.html
E-Mail: oldsluvr@bellatlantic.net
                               The "Fleet"
1979 Pontiac "Olds organ donor" Trans Am. (FOR SALE !!!)
1984 Oldsmobile Cutlass Calais. 
1985 Oldsmobile Toronado.
1992 Lincoln Mark VII LSC. 
1992 Ford F-250 Reg-Cab 4WD Pick-Up.
1994 Toyota Camry Sedan (my other halves ride).

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 23:44:15 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Douglas J Harkema" <harkema2@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Re: Olds Power in Indy......

I was there AWESOME!!!!!!


Doug Harkema
70 CS conv't


>
> Nothin but Olds Power in front at INDY today........Give it to Olds coming in
> first......
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 21:45:36 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Cool Can (How to???)

I am thinking about building a cool can for my 455 for the fuel.  Anyone
have any ideas on how to build one of these things and so on.  I really know
very little about them.  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 22:52:02 CDT
From: "Steve Traynor" <dartster@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Cool Can (How to???)

Just read an article on someone's site that has a pic of one. Bacially, it's 
12 feet of copper tubing coiled in a plastic can, with a coupld drain holes 
in it. One on the side, and one in the back. Connect your regular fuel line 
to one end, and run the other end to your carb. Between races, fill it with 
ice. Bingo, cold fuel



Steve
1970 Cutlass S Hardtop
Garland, TX
ICQ# 108901, Use "Olds list" as Request for Authorization

Favorite motivational line, seen at a Renassaince Faire: "The beatings will 
continue until morale is up!"

- -------
I am thinking about building a cool can for my 455 for the fuel.  Anyone
have any ideas on how to build one of these things and so on.  I really know
very little about them.  Thanks.




_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 23:54:37 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: F/S '71 442

I've finally decided to sell my 442.  If anyone is interested, checkout
the link below.
This car is far from perfect, but has all the goodies to make a great
resto project.  I've tried to put up pictures that show the worst of the
car.

- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (FOR SALE!!!!   See it at http://www.erols.com/old442 )
95 Aurora
OCA# 30442

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 23:03:26 -0500
From: "Walker" <pwalker@megavision.com>
Subject: 330 auto crank and heads

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01BEAAF0.9FFBB9E0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

  I still have these left from the motor out of my 67. Crank needs to be =
turned,I do have balancer and flywheel.

John

pwalker@megavision.com


- ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01BEAAF0.9FFBB9E0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp; I still have these left from =
the motor=20
out of my 67. Crank needs to be turned,I do have balancer and=20
flywheel.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>John</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:pwalker@megavision.com">pwalker@megavision.com</A></FONT><=
/DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_002E_01BEAAF0.9FFBB9E0--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 00:11:13 EDT
From: Zitoj@aol.com
Subject: Sunday night musings 

Well another beatifuly day here in the NE, and the dissection/parting of the 
rusted out 68 continues....
Today went better than yesterday...At least I didn't bash any fingers like I 
did yesterday.  ;-) Maybe the splint on my pinky made me conscious of what I 
was doing...either that or after cutting through the windshield pillars and 
tearing the firewall off the frame gave me enough clearance to get at things 
safely.
down to pulling the driver's side ex pipe, the engine and disassembling the 
suspension.  
Anybody want a C type rear end (not sure what gears, haven'y gotten the back 
end off the ground yet)???
This evening went to a cruise night with a friend, in his Ch*bby, lot's of  
great non-olds stuff, C*obras, N*ovas, Ch*bbys, some real old stuff.....even 
3 or 4 AMCs. 
THere were 2 Cuttli (bery rough 70 and 72) and aone of SOM's distant 
relatives, a Jetfire 88 (don't know the year). 
I was kind of surprized that some of the cars were very rough, in need of a 
lot of restoration.  
I've got the bug agian so the 442 will start to wake from her 11 year nap 
this week.
Sorry about the rambling, but I've been WOT (Wife Out of Town, not Wide Open 
Throttle) this weekend and need to babble.

Jim
69 442 conv

PS if you need 68 442 parts let me know.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 00:15:48 EDT
From: GregA80@aol.com
Subject: Re: Sunday night musings 

Hey, maybe I'm gonna sound stupid for not knowing this, but I'm new to the 
Olds resto, I was given the opportunity to restore a family heirloom, and I'm 
extremely interested....so can anyone tell me what SOM means without laughing 
at me?  I'm laughing enought at myself lately.....
   ~Greg

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 00:18:58 EDT
From: Zitoj@aol.com
Subject: Need advice

Couple of quick questions, hope to get quick answers ;-)

1.  How do I pop chrome off a panel when there are no fastener on visible on 
the back side, like the strip across the top of the trunk or some of the ones 
on the side of the body??

2.  I snapped a bolt off on an exhaust manifold, flush on the head end about 
.5 to .75 out on the other side.  Is the best way to remove this to soak it 
with penetrant for a couple of days, apply heat and try to twist it out the 
rest of the way with a pair of vise grips??

3.  The engine has been sitting for 11 years and is siezed, should I try to 
free it up with the ATF down the plugs trick first or open it up and drive 
the slugs out with a wood dowel?  Not plannig on doing anything with this 
motor right away, but would lioke to be able to spin it.

TIA
Jim
69 442 conv

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 00:20:10 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: Sunday night musings 

Ahhh, That's the name for Karl's car. Soilent Ocean Mist.
I believe that's how it's spelled. I'm sure Karl will chime in with the
fact.   Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse

ICQ# 5209322
Email: gjcouse@francomm.com
Web: http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

- -------------------------------------------------------------------
Like FREE Money? Just go to
http://alladvantage.com/go.asp?refid=AQE115
Members are paid for their own Web browsing
($.50 per Hour) and for referrals. Please tell all
of your friends about this program as possible.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
                               -------
                             / Q  Q \
                -----0000---\/---0000-----
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <GregA80@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 31, 1999 12:15 AM
Subject: Re: Sunday night musings


> Hey, maybe I'm gonna sound stupid for not knowing this, but I'm new to the
> Olds resto, I was given the opportunity to restore a family heirloom, and
I'm
> extremely interested....so can anyone tell me what SOM means without
laughing
> at me?  I'm laughing enought at myself lately.....
>    ~Greg
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 00:18:14 -0400
From: "Gib Loudon" <cutlass@mill.tds.net>
Subject: Re: Sunday night musings 

SOM is the name of Karl Aunan's 65.   It stands for Soilent Ocean Mist.  On
certain nights when Karl can't get to his computer SOM trades email with us.
She's got a personality all her own.  Of course...so does Karl.

Gib.

- -----Original Message-----
From: GregA80@aol.com <GregA80@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, May 31, 1999 12:17 AM
Subject: Re: Sunday night musings


>Hey, maybe I'm gonna sound stupid for not knowing this, but I'm new to the
>Olds resto, I was given the opportunity to restore a family heirloom, and
I'm
>extremely interested....so can anyone tell me what SOM means without
laughing
>at me?  I'm laughing enought at myself lately.....
>   ~Greg
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 00:29:41 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: Need advice

#1. Might just be double sided tape holding it on. Try pieling an end up a
little without great force. You'll see the tape quickly. If not that there
probably spring clips that require a tool to pinch them together to release
the molding.

#2. If there is enough of the bolt stud left you might try screwing on two
nuts and locking them to each other. Than use the inside one to screw the
stud out. Yes use a couple days of penetrating oil first.

#3. Try the ATF but bet you'll end up using the wood.

Gary....
- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse

ICQ# 5209322
Email: gjcouse@francomm.com
Web: http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

- -------------------------------------------------------------------
Like FREE Money? Just go to
http://alladvantage.com/go.asp?refid=AQE115
Members are paid for their own Web browsing
($.50 per Hour) and for referrals. Please tell all
of your friends about this program as possible.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------
                               -------
                             / Q  Q \
                -----0000---\/---0000-----

> Couple of quick questions, hope to get quick answers ;-)
>
> 1.  How do I pop chrome off a panel when there are no fastener on visible
on
> the back side, like the strip across the top of the trunk or some of the
ones
> on the side of the body??
>
> 2.  I snapped a bolt off on an exhaust manifold, flush on the head end
about
> .5 to .75 out on the other side.  Is the best way to remove this to soak
it
> with penetrant for a couple of days, apply heat and try to twist it out
the
> rest of the way with a pair of vise grips??
>
> 3.  The engine has been sitting for 11 years and is siezed, should I try
to
> free it up with the ATF down the plugs trick first or open it up and drive
> the slugs out with a wood dowel?  Not plannig on doing anything with this
> motor right away, but would lioke to be able to spin it.
>
> TIA
> Jim
> 69 442 conv
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 01 Jun 1999 00:44:31 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: Sunday night musings

gjcouse wrote:
> 
> Ahhh, That's the name for Karl's car. Soilent Ocean Mist.
> I believe that's how it's spelled. I'm sure Karl will chime in with the
> fact.   Gary....

I'm sure he will too...In between hallucinations. :)

You don't sound stupid for asking Greg.  You'd have to be on the list
awhile to have any idea what it means.  It's inside information. :)

And as anyone here will tell you, there are no stupid questions.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser
67 Cutalss Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais
73 98 LS

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 00:37:56 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Sunday night musings

gjcouse wrote:

> Ahhh, That's the name for Karl's car. Soilent Ocean Mist.
> I believe that's how it's spelled. I'm sure Karl will chime in with the
> fact.   Gary....

I think it's spelled "Soylent Ocean Mist."  BTW, Karl doesn't own the car.  The
car more or less owns him and speaks (types) through him.  It's a wierd, 
etheral
symbiosis.  I hear that to get to such a state of oneness with an automobile
requires years of training, discipline, and meditation.  Of course, gasoline 
and
carburetor cleaner fumes help, too.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/dual exhaust/
        sometimes Q-Jet, sometimes Holley/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 00:57:50 EDT
From: Zitoj@aol.com
Subject: Re: where to put speakers 68 442 Rag 

There may be factory speaker mount points in the top well, on the 
convertables w/stereo radios, the rear speker went back there.  It was 
mounted on the seat back and the grill faced into the top well, through the 
canvas.  There were a couple of posts about this recently.
Not sure if they had stereo back in 68 or if it didn't come along until 69.

Jim
69 442 conv

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 01:03:25 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Need advice

In a message dated 5/30/99 9:20:36 PM Pacific Daylight Time, Zitoj@aol.com 
writes:

<< 2.  I snapped a bolt off on an exhaust manifold, flush on the head end 
about 
 .5 to .75 out on the other side.  Is the best way to remove this to soak it 
 with penetrant for a couple of days, apply heat and try to twist it out the 
 rest of the way with a pair of vise grips?? >>

	Soaking it may help (we are talking about an exhaust pipe stud, 
correct?) but an oxy-acetylene is the right tool for the job. Heat it until 
it is glowing red (the manifold, stay away from the stud) getting the entire 
area around the stud glowing hot (not really possible to have all the 
surrounding area glowing, but very hot) then try turning the stud with the 
vise grips..make sure the Vise grips are on as tight as you can get them..if 
it doesn't turn, the manifold isn't hot enough. Simple as that. It will come 
out when it's hot enough. Just be patient.   Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 22:18:22 -0700
From: Brian <matayoshi@earthlink.net>
Subject: dot 5 brake fluid

Have just installed new wheel cylinders, master cylinder and brake lines on my
67 442. Was thinking about trying the dot 5 brake fluid. What are the 
advantages
of using dot 5 brake fluid over regular dot 3 fluid. I heard it is more
expensive, how much more. Is it hard to get, I went looking for some at the
local parts stores but could not find any.

thanks
Brian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 01:12:36 -0500
From: "Joe Centanni" <jacentan@mail.icongrp.com>
Subject: Chicago meet

No reply's about any Olds nuts here meeting at Blue Top next Sat!?!?!?!?
Have about 6 confirmed Olds G list members was looking for all Olds iron so
if your out there let me/us know
Later
Jeremy 87 442
PS Blue Top is on Rt 41 in Highland ,IN anyone need directions let me know

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 02:18:25 -0400
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: <13.00's

Peter and all

        Oil pressure was 70 lbs cold idle warmed up it was 40-42 full throttle
was 62 lbs. The engine also used stock main and head bolts, NO oil restrictors
(never will use them), and a stock oil pan and pump (with spring shimmed), The
rods had ARP bolts, medium tension moly rings. Shift points were 6200 RPM car
was 4 spd with 4.33:1 gears.

Jim Chermack


At 10:41 PM 5/30/1999 , you wrote:
>What was your oil pressure ?
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
>----------
>> From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: <13.00's
>> Date: Sunday, May 30, 1999 5:04 PM
>> 
>> Good afternoon everyone,
>> 
>>         12's ARE possible on 15x7 inch wheel with a 275/60-15 DOT legal
>"drag
>> tire". My 67 W-30 went 12.58@107 with a NHRA stock 400. Now the engine
>had
>> about $3500 worth of work done to it. This engine, if tore down would
>have
>> passed a NHRA technical inspection for being stock. Engine was nowhere
>near
>> stock. Cam was a Cam Dynamics .474 lift (rest of specs engine builder
>would not
>> reveal, NASTY IDLE!). The engine was .060 over, balanced, blueprinted (on
>the
>> loose side) mains were just over .003 clearance, rods were .0025
>clearance,
>> pistons were forged Ross flatops with .005 wall clearance, deck clearance
>was
>> .002. All rods were bushed to achieve that exact clearance. Heads were
>CC'd to
>> 71.3 cc each chamber, 3 angle valve job (accepted) all valve stem heights
>were
>> within .002 of each other. We used factory replacement W-30 valve springs
>and
>> steel retainers. There was NO port work done to them.  The distributor
>was
>> recurved for a total of 37 degrees all in at IDLE. There were NO springs
>on the
>> centrifical distributor advance. We had no problem with starting. This
>gave the
>> car unbelievable throttle response. Let me know if you want to know  more
>about
>> it. This engine was done by Danny Lattimore who also holds the D stock
>record
>> for an Olds running 10.88.
>> 
>> Jim Chermack
>> 66 W-30 F-85 Post Coupe 
>> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 02:24:30 -0500
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
Subject: Re: dot 5 brake fluid

the silicone wont boil like dot3 doesnt absorb water like dot 3(which causes
the rust problem
also it lubricates the seals (Cups & Boots) as well as conditions them
making them last a while longer I for one wouldnt use anything else in an
all new system dot 5 silicone doesnt attack paint like dot 3 and dot
4.....KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Brian <matayoshi@earthlink.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 31, 1999 12:18 AM
Subject: dot 5 brake fluid


> Have just installed new wheel cylinders, master cylinder and brake lines
on my
> 67 442. Was thinking about trying the dot 5 brake fluid. What are the
advantages
> of using dot 5 brake fluid over regular dot 3 fluid. I heard it is more
> expensive, how much more. Is it hard to get, I went looking for some at
the
> local parts stores but could not find any.
>
> thanks
> Brian
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 02:28:22 -0500
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
Subject: Re: Cool Can (How to???)

you could look at the article on cliff simpsons web site called sleight of
hand, or you could get an insulated water jug cut a couple of holes in it
and install a drain cock, wrap up twelve or so feet of copper or aluminum
tubing (3/8" but !/2" keeps more cool fuel on hand) but make sure you fill
it up with ice AND water it keeps more cold stuff in contact with the fuel
line ...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Igor Todorovic <igor455@home.com>
To: OLDS LIST <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, May 30, 1999 10:45 PM
Subject: Cool Can (How to???)


> I am thinking about building a cool can for my 455 for the fuel.  Anyone
> have any ideas on how to build one of these things and so on.  I really
know
> very little about them.  Thanks.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 02:33:25 -0500
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
Subject: Re: '68 350 budget power

Cm and Headers,best gain for the buck you could try the W-31 grind but it
makes its power up high
or you could try a mondello/Engle grind or something from dave smith or
dickie miller, all olds gurus
for headers for a bargain price try the dynomax probably the lowest cost but
my 455 headers seem to fit nice and went in easy just today as a matter of
fact....By the By also a good HEI distributor could help...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <FIFTY7C@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, May 30, 1999 6:48 PM
Subject: '68 350 budget power


> I have a stock 350, 310HP. I would like to hear from people who have
modified
> this engine with out breaking the bank. What seemed to be the best bang
for
> the buck?
>
> I am assuming that replacing the 2.73's in the rear would help
dramaticaly.
> What do Ineed to know to replace them?
> Thanks for any ideas.
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 06:53:58 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: dot 5 brake fluid

In a message dated 99-05-31 01:17:08 EDT, you write:

<< Have just installed new wheel cylinders, master cylinder and brake lines 
on my
 67 442. Was thinking about trying the dot 5 brake fluid. What are the 
advantages
 of using dot 5 brake fluid over regular dot 3 fluid. I heard it is more 
expensive, how much more. Is it hard to get, I went looking for some at the 
local parts stores but could not find any. >>

If we are not much mistaken (and we have been before).

Believe that DOT 5 is silicone based brake fluid.

Have heard much resistance to use of DOT 5 fluid.

Have not heard bona fide "It happenned to me" complaints about it, but this 
topic has crossed the list before.
Rumors that silicone fluid can dissolve rubber (wheel cylinder) parts, or 
that it can absorb water, and such like.

Karl ~can~ verify that a silicone grease can absorb H20.

So does air.

Does excessive breathing drown you?

Further air and water are both fluids, and are both compressible, as is 
silicone grease. They are just compressible differently as they are in 
gaseous and liquid phase, repectively. For that matter rocks are compresible. 
You just need the right equipment.
(not that igneous rock is considered a fluid)

Enough with the caveats, Karl does not recall the specific objections to DOT 
5 fluid, is all.

Something about water absorbtion, mebbe prophesized brake line rusting from 
inside?

Now, time for the other members to expound on why DOT 5 is bad.

Good luck!

SOM

&KA <---- graduated Cum Grano Sal
             (OK, could not locate the Latin dictionary, but did find the old 
Groo the Wanderer comix! Kewl!)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 07:02:53 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Trailer Towing with my Delta

In a message dated 99-05-30 18:20:29 EDT, you write:

<< What would be the maximum weight I could tow with that car.  It has a 
bottom end 455, th400 and 3.23 posi gears. >>

Well your gearing may be a bit more than most tow packages, but we'll put it 
this way; You could probably hire out to move small houses.

Judging from your "problems", you are puting out plenty of torque and can 
probably handle most towing applications. In fact, we believe that the FAQ 
makes some reference to the Olds Towing Package with respect to the 1976 BB 
or some such. Whatever.

Would definitely suggest you cut no corners as far as trailer hitch.
There is no substitute for doing a "proper job" of it.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 07:13:01 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Jetstar 88 was: Sunday night musings 

In a message dated 99-05-31 00:12:31 EDT, you write:

<< THere were 2 Cuttli (bery rough 70 and 72) and aone of SOM's distant 
 relatives, a Jetfire 88 (don't know the year) >>

Ah yes.
The 1965-era Jetfire 88s were very similar (down to the tail-lights even) 
where most of the body was concerned. These budget-model full-size cars had 
(most likely) the 330, but also drum brake components that were smaller than 
the other A body cars, if in fact the J-88 was consided an A body. Know for a 
fact that 1965 full size except for J-88 used the same part number for rear 
axle housing oil seals.
In fact a yarde pic (from the rear) from a "Journey With Oldsmobile" issue 
prompted Karl to telephone CA regarding a D-88 that turned out to be a J-88 
with front damage and a 330.

Just too far away for available monies.

Prolly got crushed since then.

Another forged crank gone.

Ummm....there was another question that Karl quite cannot recall as the rest 
of that subjet heading was deleted as uninteresting........

.... nevermind.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 05:14:33 -0600
From: "ed" <ed@techniflite.com>
Subject: DOT 5 break fluid

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Found this bit of info at http://www.rpmnet.com/techart/fluid.shtml .  =
Good general info on break fluid.  Sounds like the DOT 5.1 should be the =
better application for a daily driver ( if you want to stop a land =
yacht).

Ed Linehan
70 442 W-30 Sport Coupe
71 Cutlass SX

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Found this bit of info at <A=20
href=3D"http://www.rpmnet.com/techart/fluid.shtml">http://www.rpmnet.com/=
techart/fluid.shtml</A>=20
.&nbsp; Good general info on break fluid.&nbsp; Sounds like the DOT 5.1 =
should=20
be the better application for a daily driver ( if you want to stop a =
land=20
yacht).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D3>Ed Linehan<BR>70 442 W-30 Sport =
Coupe<BR>71 Cutlass=20
SX</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_007D_01BEAB24.78528980--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 07:23:11 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Bi-annual plug for Perf Prof was: '68 350 budget power

In a message dated 99-05-30 19:55:50 EDT, you write:

<< I have a stock 350, 310HP. I would like to hear from people who have 
modified  this engine with out breaking the bank. What seemed to be the best 
bang for the buck? >>

That does not tell Karl 2v or 4v carb, single or dual exhaust.

But, you'll only go as fast as you can spend.

Don't expect to turn 13's for $50.

There are the usual things; mimimize weight, maximize power, fiddle with 
gearing.....blah, blah, blah.

What Karl recommends is to understand what it is that happens in your engine 
and go on from there.

Visit the Performance Professor at:

http://www.performanceprofessor.com/

What is better that a decision based on knowledge?

And, on a different note: don't ever compromise with a machine shop.
Get exactly what you want, or take your parts home and consider yourself 
ahead!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 08:38:31 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Fender patch panels

I have been looking for the lower rear quarter panel patches also.  I have
not found any as of yet.  If you have better luck then I...Please let me
know.
You should be able to remove the front clip yourself.  That is if you plan
to take it off in pieces.  You will need an extra set of hands to take the
hood off.  Just make sure you mark the location of the hinges on the hood
first.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
- ----- Original Message -----
From: tj <tj1852@worldnet.att.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, May 30, 1999 7:48 PM
Subject: Fender patch panels


> Hi all
>
> I have found someone I trust to work on my '71 culass "s," and am going
> to have some rust repair done on the area behind the rear wheels before
> I have paint applied.  I know that there are quarter panel "skins"
> available for these cars from vendors such as year 1, but does anyone
> know if there is a patch panel, such as those used on the front fenders,
> available for the rear of this car?  I think that the body shop can
> repair this damage without them, but I wanted to give the guy the option
> of using them if he wants to AND if they are available.  I am
> particularly concerned with him getting the contour right so that the
> wheel opening molding will fit as it should.
>
> Also, how hard is it to remove the front fenders and hood myself?  I am
> toying with the idea of removing them before I deliver the car to the
> shop, and then reinstalling them afterwards myself.  I have already
> removed bumpers, grilles, trim, interior, front and rear windows etc.
> and am pretty much left with a shell with a dashboard in it.
>
> Any advice?
>
> Thanks for your help,
>
> Tim
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 08:43:34 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: '68 350 budget power

I would farm this job out unless you have some special tools to do the gear
change.  You will have to remove the carrier and keep all of the shims in
there proper places.  There can be shims by both bearings and on the input
shaft.  The job will also require a new crush sleeve.  This is a misnomer as
the damn thing dont crush to easy!

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <FIFTY7C@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, May 30, 1999 7:48 PM
Subject: '68 350 budget power


> I have a stock 350, 310HP. I would like to hear from people who have
modified
> this engine with out breaking the bank. What seemed to be the best bang
for
> the buck?
>
> I am assuming that replacing the 2.73's in the rear would help
dramaticaly.
> What do Ineed to know to replace them?
> Thanks for any ideas.
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 30 May 1999 23:30:04 -0700
From: Jim Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Re: Warm Running conditions

I know 200 isn't that bad, other then all my previous Olds' to date have 
never run over 180, and I've got ones with 240,000 down to 60,000 miles and 
all sorts of motor conditions.  I do believe the timing chain should be 
replaced.  I am happy the plugs look like they do - good omens on that end!!


"Lisa Madsen" <Lisa@hotglass.com>

Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile - Home Page
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 09:00:32 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Need advice

- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Zitoj@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 31, 1999 12:18 AM
Subject: Need advice


> Couple of quick questions, hope to get quick answers ;-)
>
> 1.  How do I pop chrome off a panel when there are no fastener on visible
on
> the back side, like the strip across the top of the trunk or some of the
ones
> on the side of the body??
Could be a few different ones here.  This is what I have seen.  The strips
along the body may have small plastic clips behind the chrome.  Gently pry
them off.  or..  There may be self tapping nuts on studs that come off the
chrome piece.  To get at the nuts you may have to pull off some interior
panels.
>
> 2.  I snapped a bolt off on an exhaust manifold, flush on the head end
about
> .5 to .75 out on the other side.  Is the best way to remove this to soak
it
> with penetrant for a couple of days, apply heat and try to twist it out
the
> rest of the way with a pair of vise grips??
This works for me!
>
> 3.  The engine has been sitting for 11 years and is siezed, should I try
to
> free it up with the ATF down the plugs trick first or open it up and drive
> the slugs out with a wood dowel?  Not plannig on doing anything with this
> motor right away, but would lioke to be able to spin it.
I have used wd-40(the universal solvent)  Spay it down the spark plug holes,
and let it set a few days.
>
> TIA
> Jim
> 69 442 conv
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 09:13:51 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: leaded Olds

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I am planning to do my own quarter panel replacement(it's the cheap =
drugs).  I was thinking that lead filler was not used on cars in 1971.  =
I thunk wrong.  What is the best way to GET THE LEAD OUT?  The old lead =
filler is not to friendly to the paint.  I would like ideas on how to =
melt it out without warping the roof.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html

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<HTML><HEAD>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I am planning to do my own quarter panel =
replacement(it's the=20
cheap drugs).&nbsp; I was thinking that lead filler was not used on cars =
in=20
1971.&nbsp; I thunk wrong.&nbsp; What is the best way to GET THE LEAD =
OUT?&nbsp;=20
The old lead filler is not to friendly to the paint.&nbsp; I would like =
ideas on=20
how to melt it out without warping the roof.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A><BR>Steve<BR>North=20
Carolina<BR>ICQ#26466860<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html">http://members.xoo=
m.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html</A></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 09:15:03 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: My 85 Cutlass burns oil and blue smoke comes out of tailpipe

- -----Original Message-----
From: Moparrp@aol.com <Moparrp@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, May 30, 1999 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: My 85 Cutlass burns oil and blue smoke comes out of tailpipe


>if it ain't leaking and smoking it's not an olds


I resent that in a big way. After 146,000 miles my 307 uses ZERO oil.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 10:05:09 -0400
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Jetstar 88 was: Sunday night musings

Karl and list,
    A friend of mine has a '64 Jetstar 88 that he is looking to get rid of.  It
is a 2 door hard top, 330 2bbl, Jetaway, 3.08 gears (open), has extra tail 
lights
and trim.  The body is rough (paint fading right off of it) but would make a 
good
parts car from a mechanicals stand point (runs great!).  The last I heard he 
was
asking $500 for it - but I think that that was negotiable.  If anybody is
interested you can drop him a line at "Flaming Tomato
Racing"<srpowers@datawise.net>
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a Jetaway and 2.73's :-(

KarlAunan@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 99-05-31 00:12:31 EDT, you write:
>
> << THere were 2 Cuttli (bery rough 70 and 72) and aone of SOM's distant
>  relatives, a Jetfire 88 (don't know the year) >>
>
> Ah yes.
> The 1965-era Jetfire 88s were very similar (down to the tail-lights even)
> where most of the body was concerned. These budget-model full-size cars had
> (most likely) the 330, but also drum brake components that were smaller than
> the other A body cars, if in fact the J-88 was consided an A body. Know for a
> fact that 1965 full size except for J-88 used the same part number for rear
> axle housing oil seals.
> In fact a yarde pic (from the rear) from a "Journey With Oldsmobile" issue
> prompted Karl to telephone CA regarding a D-88 that turned out to be a J-88
> with front damage and a 330.
>
> Just too far away for available monies.
>
> Prolly got crushed since then.
>
> Another forged crank gone.
>
> Ummm....there was another question that Karl quite cannot recall as the rest
> of that subjet heading was deleted as uninteresting........
>
> .... nevermind.
>
> SOM
>
> &KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 10:08:56 -0500
From: "Walker" <pwalker@megavision.com>
Subject: Re: leaded Olds

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You can melt the lead out with an oxy/acetylene torch. Lead melts at a =
pretty low temperature, low enough that the quarter will not warp. Just =
get it to melt and wipe it off.
    -----Original Message-----
    From: steve harris <meso@pamlico.net>
    To: Olds E-mail Ring <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
    Date: Monday, May 31, 1999 8:08 AM
    Subject: leaded Olds
   =20
   =20
    I am planning to do my own quarter panel replacement(it's the cheap =
drugs).  I was thinking that lead filler was not used on cars in 1971.  =
I thunk wrong.  What is the best way to GET THE LEAD OUT?  The old lead =
filler is not to friendly to the paint.  I would like ideas on how to =
melt it out without warping the roof.
    meso@pamlico.net
    Steve
    North Carolina
    ICQ#26466860
    http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html

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<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 =
Transitional//EN">
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>You can melt the lead out with an =
oxy/acetylene=20
torch. Lead melts at a pretty low temperature, low enough that the =
quarter will=20
not warp. Just get it to melt and wipe it off.</FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 solid 2px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-LEFT: =
5px">
    <DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2><B>-----Original =
Message-----</B><BR><B>From:=20
    </B>steve harris &lt;<A=20
    href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A>&gt;<BR><B>To: =
</B>Olds=20
    E-mail Ring &lt;<A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca">oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A>&g=
t;<BR><B>Date:=20
    </B>Monday, May 31, 1999 8:08 AM<BR><B>Subject: </B>leaded=20
    Olds<BR><BR></DIV></FONT>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2>I am planning to do my own quarter panel =
replacement(it's=20
    the cheap drugs).&nbsp; I was thinking that lead filler was not used =
on cars=20
    in 1971.&nbsp; I thunk wrong.&nbsp; What is the best way to GET THE =
LEAD=20
    OUT?&nbsp; The old lead filler is not to friendly to the =
paint.&nbsp; I=20
    would like ideas on how to melt it out without warping the=20
roof.</FONT></DIV>
    <DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
    =
href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A><BR>Steve<BR>North=20
    Carolina<BR>ICQ#26466860<BR><A=20
    =
href=3D"http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html">http://members.xoo=
m.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html</A></FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 12:16:55 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Mega-Show

Yesterday a few of us made the trip to the biggest show around these parts
every year. About 900 cars there this year, really too many to see in an
afternoon. There were a surprising number of Oldsmobiles there, and I can
say without boasting that the 4 of us who went there together (me and my
'68 "S", Don Hirtle with his '68 W-30, Steve Penny with his '70 SX, and
Brian Smith with his '71 SX) had the 4 nicest Oldses on the field. 

Not much to be had this year in the swap meet, though I did score a very
old AC PF-24 oil filter with embossed writing on the bottom and an
older-style set of Delco D1007 uniset points that were made in the US.
Once again the '68 sport steering wheel and set of chrome 14x7 SSIs that I
had hoped to find eluded me... ;-)

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 10:21:50 -0500
From: Wyatt <Wyatt@jobax.net>
Subject: Re: dot 5 brake fluid

I have used DOT 5 fluid in my car since 1984 when I rebuilt the entire system.
I have topped it off once since then.  My car gets used very little and has set
idle for as long as 6 months at a time.  The brakes are always ready to go and
the performance is top notch.  I have found it at NAPA and other "real" auto
parts stores.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 12:02:36 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Not this C. Witt

Also, there was a letter in the tech session from Chris Witt. He taught them
a thing or two! They acknowledged it. Imagine, a genius in our midst.

Ed
=========
Oh, not THIS Chris Witt. I did an internet search on my name one day, found
that there's a Chris Witt somewhere with a web page and serious drag race
car[s]. Not me. I always try to use the byline *the* Rocket Scientist to help
avoid such confusion.


- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 12:06:37 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 42 Volt systems coming

Olds content, do you think the 2010 Oldsmobiles will go from a 12V to
a higher voltage, say 18 or 24V electrical system to handle the
increasing electrical loads that modern cars carry?
=============
Yes, friends, cars will soon be running 42 volt systems, it's in the works now.
Probably with semi-separate 12V system for lighting.

Also, the starter and generator will be one unit, part of which will be the
flywheel. Can you imagine what your repair bill will be when the starter/
generator poops out, and you have to remove the motor or trans to service it?
Anyone who can would do well to buy land and parts cars real soon. I envision
$2000 repair bills for such a task.

Feel free to buy a new car instead! ;-)

Or, grab up a nice '60's car that can be repaired for cheap.

- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 12:07:10 EDT
From: Old1970442@aol.com
Subject: very Confused.

Dear Olds Fans,

     I guess everyone has heard of Helen J. Earley at the Oldsmobile History 
Cneter>
I wrote to the center for some information on my 4-4-2. The thing is my body 
tag has a   -   -  paint code.(special order paint code). Well she told me 
that my car paint should be Sebring Yellow. But, I chipped a piece of the 
factory rubber coating off  the bottom of the car and it is Aqua looking( I 
think). The car has never been restored either,  I am going to write her back 
this week also.  

So here is the question is she right or is there more colors that can be 
special order(that the center doesn't know about) ?

VIN   344870M406062

Body Tag   ST 70   34487LAN511164   BDY
                 TR 937                     -   -    PNT
                      07B


Heath
1970 4-4-2
1972 Cutlass Supreme 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 12:16:12 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: 307 EGR Vacuum Line Routing 

>I'm in need of the *proper* vacuum line routing for the EGR on my 85
>Toro.<snip>
>I've got an 84' shop manual, but it isn't shedding too much light on
>this subject.


Yuh, there used to be detailed vacuum routing diagrams in service manuals,
but I can't find them in my 85 book either..

My 307 definitely pinged without EGR.

The EGR vacuum comes from a ported vacuum connection in the front of the
carb. It goes to the EGR vac solenoid that sits on the driver's side rocker
cover. There are 3 vac solenoids there in a cluster - the EGR solenoid is
the one closest to the firewall.

If you need to know which of the carb connections to use, e-mail me direct
and I'll go look at mine...

drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 10:33:11 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: My 85 Cutlass burns oil and blue smoke comes out of tailpipe

> >if it ain't leaking and smoking it's not an olds
>
>
> I resent that in a big way. After 146,000 miles my 307 uses ZERO oil.


I totally agree.  I have two 307, one over 150,000 miles, one over 220,000
miles and ZERO oil with both.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 12:34:56 EDT
From: FIFTY7C@aol.com
Subject: Re: '68 350 budget power

Thanks for the info. My understanding on the subject of headers is that there 
are no headers available that will fit my non-442 body. It is a Supreme. 
Something about the engine being off center and the frame being larger. 

Anyone have experiences with this combo?

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1987
*********************************

