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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1978


oldsmobile-digest        Tuesday, May 25 1999        Volume 01 : Number 1978



Re: Repair Ineptitude, Chapter 984
Re: POR-15
Re: Repair Ineptitude, Chapter 984
Re: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breather)
Re: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breather)
Re: Transmission shift points
Re:  air gun and sprayed POR-15
Re: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breather)
Re: POR-15 also make a floor covering?
Re: Transmission shift points
Re:  air gun and sprayed POR-15
Re: Unread Message problem
Re: Repair Ineptitude, Chapter 984
455 price
Re: 455 price
Re: 455 price
Re: 455 price 
Valve trouble.
Re: 1971 Olds 442 (fwd)
Q-jet Performance Tips
Re: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breathe
TH 400 Converter Balance
Re: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breathe
Vinyl Top Color Restorer
brake pedal on a '59 Olds
Re: Valve trouble.
Re: The best Rotors
More POR 15
Re: Happy99
Re: Transmission shift points
Re: Unread Message problem
Attribute correction was: Transmission shift points
Re: brake pedal on a '59 Olds
Re: PCV vs. breather
Re: 79 Cutlass Supreme
Re: 455 price
79 Cutlass A/C
Re: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breather)
Re: 1971 Olds 442 (fwd)
'Starflite' emblem
Re: 'Starflite' emblem
Re: garage floor(non-olds)
Who'll 442 shop for me in Dayton/Cinci area?
Re: 1972 Buick 350 into 1985 Olds?
Re: 455 price
Re: brake pedal on a '59 Olds
Re: PCV Tech
Re: 1972 Buick 350 into 1985 Olds?
Englishtown = Old Bridge something or other
Re: brake pedal on a '59 Olds

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 15:50:40 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Repair Ineptitude, Chapter 984

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> 
> So now I have no way to get the trim off easily, the thing
> leaks like a sieve, probably in the areas where they had broken the clips
> off, it looks lousy if you look closely at it, and I am royally p-o'ed.

I'm p-o'ed just reading about it.

> I figure short of suing them the only way I can stop the leaks is from the
> inside, by taking off the interior trim and dropping the headliner at the
> top of the windshield. 

I always like the threaten-to-drive-it-through-their-front-door
approach.  Wait until they've got a lobby full of customers and then
start asking, rather loudly, why your car is leaking gallons of water
that it didn't leak before they touched it and what they intend to do
about it.  But I wouldn't wait too long...

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 12:53:11 -0700
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re: POR-15

>Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 20:29:29 PDT
>From: "Ioannis Kouramanis" <kourama@hotmail.com>
>Subject: Re: POR-15

>>Has anyone ever used POR-15 products? If so how did they work?


>My brother spent a lot of money on this stuff for his '68 charger.
>It has a very particular nature.

>1) it won't work if you spray it out of a spray gun. You have to
>paint it on with a brush.

**Quote From POR15.COM's FAQ**

"You should use only POR-15 Solvent for thinning. Keep lacquer thinner handy
for clean-up. Do not thin POR-15 more than 5%"

>2) it stands for Paint Over Rust.

Correct here.

>It won't stick to anything but rusty metal. the rustier the better.

Not correct here, another **Quote From POR15.COM's FAQ**

"POR-15 likes rusted surfaces best. Seasoned metal and sandblasted metal are
also good. POR-15 does not adhere well to smooth, shiny surfaces, but will
adhere well to those surfaces with the proper preparation. "

>3) On a test piece we coated in POR: we leaned against this thing
>on a bench grinder for a full minute and it wouldn't come off. All
>that happened was the shine dulled a little. it is amazingly TOUGH

I agree.  I didn't try this test, but would agree to the ~tough~ statement.

>4) wear COMPLETE body covering when using it. if any gets on your
>skin it will stay there for several days.

Very good advice, I used dishwashing gloves, long pants, and flannel shirts.
It will come off with brake kleen, or lacquer thinner if you get it quick
enough.

>5) The finish is absolutely gorgeous, like polished obsidian.

>what else...I think that's all.

>Oh yeah 6) It may be the application method he used, but my brother
>complained that it didn't cover nearly as much area as the company
>claimed.

I can't really say for sure on the amount it covered, as I wasn't paying
attention to that.  I am going to re top-coat my frame this weekend, so I'll
let the list know how far a quart will go.

Steve Reed
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 15:59:58 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Repair Ineptitude, Chapter 984

Greg
Maybe it's time you sold that Delta before you take to pulling wings off
flies, tying dogs to bumpers and pinching babys. In the long run you'll
have more hair left.

Omega Man
'74 Omega S 455/auto
'74 Omega 455/4spd (someyear)




At 04:39 PM 5/25/99 -0300, you wrote:
>
>I figure I'm close to the 1000 mark on stories of inept shops doing work
>on my car. I understand now why most folks here like to do things
>themselves. Here's the latest chapter:
>
>Last summmer the Delta took a stone in the windshield. It left a crack
>about the size of a quarter and I took it to a windshield place for
>repair. They said they could do it, but I was never happy with the result
>since you could still see it and feel it from the outside. It held until a
>couple of weeks ago when it suddenly grew to about 8" and was followed a
>day or so later by another crack on the other side, so I made an
>appointment to get it replaced. 
>
>Aside from the exhaust manifold woes I've described, the other main
>problem with the Delta is the dreaded pinchweld rust around the
>windshield. It leaked there, and last year I took the stainless trim off
>and found some problems. After 20 years some of the trim clips were shot,
>so after I dealt with the bad spots I went and got some replacement trim
>clips that screw in and installed them. Worked great and I was satisfied.
>A couple of days before I took it in to get the windshield replaced, I
>decided to take the trim off to see how the repaired areas were doing. I
>used my tool to get the stainless off, saw things were still fine, and
>then I made my mistake -- I put the stainless back on.
>
>So the end of last week I took it to the glass shop. I didn't look at it
>real close when I picked it up because it had started to rain. But after I
>get home and park it for a while, I get back in and there's this huge
>puddle on the floor -- far worse than ever before. I look at the job from
>the outside and they had used copious amounts of black silicone to *glue*
>the stainless on! This is consistent with 3 or 4 broken trim clips I found
>on the floor, on the cowl, and in the door jambs (along with slivers of
>broken glass). So now I have no way to get the trim off easily, the thing
>leaks like a sieve, probably in the areas where they had broken the clips
>off, it looks lousy if you look closely at it, and I am royally p-o'ed.
>
>I figure short of suing them the only way I can stop the leaks is from the
>inside, by taking off the interior trim and dropping the headliner at the
>top of the windshield. Not a fun job, but I gotta stop these leaks or I
>won't have a car. Today it's raining quite hard and the headliner is
>actually wet on the inside, something that never happened before. That is
>unacceptable. I cannot believe my luck at shops around here.
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
>             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 16:06:28 EDT
From: R4C442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breather)

Just to throw in my opinion...the PCV was used not to provide for crankcase 
ventilation, but to recycle those nasty old vapors. My 65 442 came with both 
a PCV setup and a breather on the oil add tube. Now really, how many vents 
does one need to relieve pressure?
Secondly, my experience with MT covers and their "pop-out' plugs taught me 
that that the holes were placed in a very precarious spot in that they were 
directly over a rocker oiling site. Result?....oil blow-by. Be sure to use 
either tall breathers (ala NASCAR) and/or some sort of stocking filter to 
prevent this.
										
		Ron  Forsee
										
		65 442-Meister

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 16:14:02 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breather)

Ed Binnix wrote:

> This one I can answer! The M/T Valve covers have a punch out hole in them. I
> have two sets on for use and one for sale (hint, hint, everyone).

Ed,

I can take a hint!
How much you want for those covers?

Mark Hahn
75 Delta 88 Royale Convertible
Cincinnati, Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 13:11 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: Transmission shift points

Lawrence A. Biasotto wrote:
<snipped>

>My 71 olds shifts at 50mph during what I would call "light" 
>acceleration.  We have lots of roads with 35MPH speed limits, (with 
>radar).  So I drive a lot around 40MPH.  The car does not shift into 
>3rd when cruising at 40 but feels like it should. Is this normal?
350, 4bbl, th350,2.56,14x7 SSII
___________________________________

Doesn't sound normal to me. My car is a '72 Supreme with the same 
engine/transmission combo as yours, and 2.73:1 rear gears, and it is 
very definitely in 3rd gear at light throttle at 40mph, unless driving 
up a steep hill (the vacuum modulator will detect that the engine is 
working hard and kickdown to 2nd). Without actually performing the 
test, I would say from memory that it shifts into 3rd by 20 -> 25mph 
if I use very light throttle on a level road.

My tires are 27 inches tall, for comparison purposes, and at this 
point the engine and transmission are both totally and completely 
stock.

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 13:21:19 -0700
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re:  air gun and sprayed POR-15

>Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 05:57:36 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
>Subject: Re: POR-15 / Chassis Coat black

>Has anyone used an air gun and sprayed POR-15 on? How
>hard is it to clean up the gun after that? Do they
>have the dillution ratio on the can? (I should have my
>POR-15 this week. :-)

Should I call you Rock, or Mr. Man <VBG>,
	I have only had a friend apply POR-15 with a gun.  He said it went
on great, but you just had to really clean the gun well.  You definitely
want to clean it as soon as you're done applying it.

**Quote From POR15.COM's FAQ**

"You should use only POR-15 Solvent for thinning. Keep lacquer thinner handy
for clean-up. Do not thin POR-15 more than 5%"

Steve Reed
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 13:29:23 -0700
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breather)

>Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 07:23:07 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
>Subject: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breather)

>Joe wrote:
><snip>  And if you're asking
>> if you need to run a PCV at all if you have
>> breathers in the valve covers, then
>> the answer is yes.
>===========================

>I've always been confused on this part here. I just
>ordered the Holley polished aluminum M/T valve covers
>from Summit. They look like they don't have a breather
>on either of them. How does this work? Don't you need
>some type of a vent in there? 

I also have these valve covers, and I was going to post a message to the
list asking if anyone has knocked a hole in their valve covers yet.  I will
need to know the size of the hole for each valve cover for:  

1.  The PCV valve grommet
2.  The breather hole diameter

Has anyone done this recently, that would know the sizes of the respective
holes?

Has anyone seen any decent looking breathers besides the Edelbrock breathers
(Rectangular in shape)?  I'm going from memory right now, since I don't have
a Summit catalog here at work.  I just was less than thrilled with the look
of the Edelbrock breathers.  I'm open to ALL suggestions.

Thanx in advance for the info

Steve Reed
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 13:37:49 -0700
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re: POR-15 also make a floor covering?

>Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 08:56:06 -0700 (PDT)
>From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
>Subject: Re: garage floor(non-olds)

>I think that I saw that the makers of POR-15 also make
>a floor covering? Or at least a concrete covering?

Looking in the catalog they indicate that POR-15 Gray "Is also good for
working with concrete"  The URL for the page is
http://www.por15.com/faqs/faqconcr.html   When I went there the page was
blank.  You may want to call them for specific recommendation usages.

Steve Reed
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 13:40:58 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Transmission shift points

>My 71 olds shifts at 50mph during what I would call "light"
>acceleration.  We have lots of roads with 35MPH speed limits, (with
>radar).  So I drive a lot around 40MPH.  The car does not shift into
>3rd when cruising at 40 but feels like it should. Is this normal?

I don't think so. Are you sure you've got vacuum to the vacuum modulator? 
Without it your shift points are held as long as possible (e.g. as if you 
were under hard acceleration with no manifold vacuum). If this is an 
A/C-equipped car with vacuum-actuated dash controls, and you can't blow air 
through the dash vents when on the VENT setting (regardless of whether or 
not the A/C actually works), figure you have a vacuum leak somewhere.

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 13:43:34 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re:  air gun and sprayed POR-15

Mr Man will work just fine! *LOL*

Del
> 
> Should I call you Rock, or Mr. Man <VBG>,
> 	I have only had a friend apply POR-15 with a gun. 
> He said it went
> on great, but you just had to really clean the gun
> well.  You definitely
> want to clean it as soon as you're done applying it.
> 
> **Quote From POR15.COM's FAQ**
> 
> "You should use only POR-15 Solvent for thinning.
> Keep lacquer thinner handy
> for clean-up. Do not thin POR-15 more than 5%"
> 
> Steve Reed
> Austin, TX
> 

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 16:53:49 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: Unread Message problem

Andy Lawrence wrote:
> 
> Hey guys,
> 
>     I wrecked my CBR900RR about 2 weeks ago, i have been in the hospital 
since!

Wow. A guy I know just wrecked his too!!! He was cocked and nobody would
give him his keys, so he hopped on his bike instead. He was pulling a
wheelie and forgot that the road curved until it was too late. He ended
up in one person's front yard and the bike ended up in the yard nest to
it. He was kinda goofed up for a while, but I guess he's okay now.

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
*************************
http://drive.to/73cutlass
- -----------------------
'73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
'70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
'75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
*************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 13:50:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Repair Ineptitude, Chapter 984

> I always like the
> threaten-to-drive-it-through-their-front-door
> approach.  Wait until they've got a lobby full of
> customers and then
> start asking, rather loudly, why your car is leaking
> gallons of water
> that it didn't leak before they touched it and what
> they intend to do
> about it.  But I wouldn't wait too long...
=====================

This works well! I did this when the tire store
screwed up my lug studs. If you don't get what you
want, at least you have made a scene!
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 17:26:46 EDT
From: SHELTERMEN@aol.com
Subject: 455 price

Just curious about a good price for a 455.  My Delmont is screaming for 
another engine and from what I've seen so far, it doesn't make sense to build 
up the 350.  What should I expect when I head to the junkyard?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 16:24:54 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: 455 price

I am not a 455 expert. I decided that the 350 was worth building... here 
are my 0.02 worth:

It depends on what year of 455 you are looking at and what heads etc. you 
have on it. You also have to take ito account what shape the thing is 
going to be in. I would recommend to buy a worn out one and rebuild it 
otherwise you will never get what you want and you will never know what 
you get either... Go to the FAQ on 442.com an look at the differences in 
blocks and heads etc. and see what you want to get. 

I think anything between 200 and 500 is possible for a nice rebuildable 
engine. You might want to get one that actuall is sold as "running" but 
then build it. I think that pre 72 might be even more then 500. According 
to the trouble of the other guys looking for a decent 455 you will need 
some patience in addition to the cash.

Hope this helps some, George
- ---------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
- ---------------------

On Tue, 25 May 1999 SHELTERMEN@aol.com wrote:

> Just curious about a good price for a 455.  My Delmont is screaming for 
> another engine and from what I've seen so far, it doesn't make sense to 
build 
> up the 350.  What should I expect when I head to the junkyard?
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 16:47:56 -0500
From: "Stephen A. Hoover" <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: 455 price

Wow, I have watched numerous threads on this subject and I must lead a
sheltered life. In the junkyards I go to, you can have anything you want
all for the same price. I scored a 1970 455 out of a Toronado for only
$130. This is the standard price for any long block in major Dallas
junkyards.


Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

George wrote:
> 
> I am not a 455 expert. I decided that the 350 was worth building... here
> are my 0.02 worth:
> 
> It depends on what year of 455 you are looking at and what heads etc. you
> have on it. You also have to take ito account what shape the thing is
> going to be in. I would recommend to buy a worn out one and rebuild it
> otherwise you will never get what you want and you will never know what
> you get either... Go to the FAQ on 442.com an look at the differences in
> blocks and heads etc. and see what you want to get.
> 
> I think anything between 200 and 500 is possible for a nice rebuildable
> engine. You might want to get one that actuall is sold as "running" but
> then build it. I think that pre 72 might be even more then 500. According
> to the trouble of the other guys looking for a decent 455 you will need
> some patience in addition to the cash.
> 
> Hope this helps some, George
> ---------------------
> '68 Cuttlass S Conv.
> ---------------------
> 
> On Tue, 25 May 1999 SHELTERMEN@aol.com wrote:
> 
> > Just curious about a good price for a 455.  My Delmont is screaming for
> > another engine and from what I've seen so far, it doesn't make sense to 
build
> > up the 350.  What should I expect when I head to the junkyard?
> >

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 16:50:01 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: 455 price 

Looks like I will have to go to Dallas for parts in the future! I could 
not find a running engine for my chebby truck in town under 800!!! And 
there we are talking a stupid 2.8l for a 84! 

You also have to see that I was talking about a "running" engine. I 
recommend that because if you have a shot one you may have the crank and 
rods or the bore all messed up ... just ask Omega man about his 455 
search... You are really lucky if your junkjard does not know the details 
about the blocks and you can score them that cheap...

George

- ---------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
- ---------------------

On Tue, 25 May 1999, Stephen A. Hoover wrote:

> Wow, I have watched numerous threads on this subject and I must lead a
> sheltered life. In the junkyards I go to, you can have anything you want
> all for the same price. I scored a 1970 455 out of a Toronado for only
> $130. This is the standard price for any long block in major Dallas
> junkyards.
> 
> 
> Stephen Hoover
> Dallas, Texas
> '70 Supreme
> 
> George wrote:
> > 
> > I am not a 455 expert. I decided that the 350 was worth building... here
> > are my 0.02 worth:
> > 
> > It depends on what year of 455 you are looking at and what heads etc. you
> > have on it. You also have to take ito account what shape the thing is
> > going to be in. I would recommend to buy a worn out one and rebuild it
> > otherwise you will never get what you want and you will never know what
> > you get either... Go to the FAQ on 442.com an look at the differences in
> > blocks and heads etc. and see what you want to get.
> > 
> > I think anything between 200 and 500 is possible for a nice rebuildable
> > engine. You might want to get one that actuall is sold as "running" but
> > then build it. I think that pre 72 might be even more then 500. According
> > to the trouble of the other guys looking for a decent 455 you will need
> > some patience in addition to the cash.
> > 
> > Hope this helps some, George
> > ---------------------
> > '68 Cuttlass S Conv.
> > ---------------------
> > 
> > On Tue, 25 May 1999 SHELTERMEN@aol.com wrote:
> > 
> > > Just curious about a good price for a 455.  My Delmont is screaming for
> > > another engine and from what I've seen so far, it doesn't make sense to 
build
> > > up the 350.  What should I expect when I head to the junkyard?
> > >
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 26 May 1999 00:11:54 +0200
From: Trond-Jarle Pedersen <olds69@online.no>
Subject: Valve trouble.

So i finally got to changing cam in my olds.
was going trough a last check on the engine before mounting it tougher.
(the old cam was 0.5mm worn )
I inspected the valve springs and found out that the valve on the 7
cylinder was barley visible through the retainer :-(
took of the left head and found out that the intake valve had the lock
groove cut out about 2-3 mm further up than the rest of the valves. :-((
so the clicking i had heard was not a bad cam but a bad valve.
Grrrrrr.......
That last owner,,, if i could get my hands on him...
soooooo i need a new valve (maybe 16?) retainers and locks...
how mutch money will this cost me??? any one???

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 18:31:30 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: 1971 Olds 442 (fwd)

Before anybody helps this guy, ask if the cars are gonna be wrecked,
destroyed, or damaged in some silly stunt or something.  Just my feelings.

> Greg,   We are a small paint and body shop in Southern California that
> specializes in cars for the movie and tv industry.  We are preparing 2
> 1971 Olds 442 Convertibles which are all black in color.  We need to
> paint them White with stripes across the hood and deck lid.
> Unfortunately we have no pictures of the scheme as was used by GM and
> would like to make them as authentic as we can.  Neither car has hood
> scoops.
>
> Your assistance would be greatly appreciated.   Thanks,  Eric Bayliss
> (EB081369@PacBell.net)

- --
Thomas P. Smith
  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/dual exhaust/
        sometimes Q-Jet, sometimes Holley/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 18:49:07 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Q-jet Performance Tips

Here are a bunch of helpful tips for Q-jet performance applications:
http://www.dapa.org/frazier.htm

Dude

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 18:38:30 -0400
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breathe

I did one set of mine. In order to keep the surrounding aluminum in as good
a shape as possible, I drilled very small holes around the perimeter of the
knockout which is semi-circular. Then I knocked them out with a small hammer
and smoothed the edges with a Dremel tool.

 The grommets are factory grommets that are also semicircular. You can get
these at any auto parts store. I got the grommets at Autozone. They come in
two sizes, one for breather (1" hole) and a PCV size (3/4" or 5/8" hole)
they are the same as factory valve cover grommets.
Hope this helps.

Ed

- -----Original Message-----

>
>>I've always been confused on this part here. I just
>>ordered the Holley polished aluminum M/T valve covers
>>from Summit. They look like they don't have a breather
>>on either of them. How does this work? Don't you need
>>some type of a vent in there?
>
>I also have these valve covers, and I was going to post a message to the
>list asking if anyone has knocked a hole in their valve covers yet.  I will
>need to know the size of the hole for each valve cover for:
>
>1.  The PCV valve grommet
>2.  The breather hole diameter
>
>Has anyone done this recently, that would know the sizes of the respective
>holes?
>
>Has anyone seen any decent looking breathers besides the Edelbrock
breathers
>(Rectangular in shape)?  I'm going from memory right now, since I don't
have
>a Summit catalog here at work.  I just was less than thrilled with the look
>of the Edelbrock breathers.  I'm open to ALL suggestions.
>
>Thanx in advance for the info
>
>Steve Reed
>Austin, TX
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 15:43:49 -0700
From: BOYD DONALD R <drboyd@srpnet.com>
Subject: TH 400 Converter Balance

Is the 455 externally balanced?  Meaning, is the torque converter
specifically "unbalanced" or is it "Zero balanced"?  I'm asking since my
transmission seems to be in its death throes, and the guy I'm taking it to
had a real hard time coming up with a properly balanced converter for the
Torque Flite 727 in my GTX.  I figure it'll be easier on him if it's zero
balance...

Thanks!

Don Boyd
76 Cutlass 455
Factory Orange Wheels
Orange Bodym - factory special order paint...

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 19:44:19 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breathe

On Tue, 25 May 1999, Ed Binnix wrote:
>  The grommets are factory grommets that are also semicircular. You can get
> these at any auto parts store. I got the grommets at Autozone. They come in
> two sizes, one for breather (1" hole) and a PCV size (3/4" or 5/8" hole)
> they are the same as factory valve cover grommets.

I discovered last year when I redid my valve covers that the older engines
like my '68 use a different (smaller) grommet than the later 307s. 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 15:47:23 -0700
From: BOYD DONALD R <drboyd@srpnet.com>
Subject: Vinyl Top Color Restorer

As someone on the list noted, "Nothing says 'Class' like a padded vinyl
roof!"  Except, of course, if it's a white roof and somewhat discolored.

What kinds of bat-wing snake-oil does anyone use to re-whiten a vinyl roof?
I'm thinking of some kind of semi permanent color coat, maybe....  Anybody
got anything good to use?

Thanks!

Don Boyd
76 Cutlass 455
Hurst T-Tops
Padded vinyl roof

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 18:44:41 EDT
From: Jwsherma@aol.com
Subject: brake pedal on a '59 Olds

I have a '59 Super 88 with power brakes.  The brakes work fine, but there is 
no return in the pedal...it just sort of hangs there.  It gets stuck on the 
brake light switch on the floor, and the lights stick on.  You have to 
manually lift it off of the switch to turn the brake lights off.  How can 
this be repaired?  Am I missing a spring somewhere in the pedal?  Do I need a 
new switch?  I'm just starting out on this project and any help would be 
greatly appreciated.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 18:48:00 EDT
From: CChand4644@aol.com
Subject: Re: Valve trouble.

My machine shop did a three angle valve job, magnaflux,  They also checked 
for eveness,(c heads  455) replaced most of the valves, ground them, and 
placed hardened seats, I gave them the springs I wanted installed. It cost 
about 270 with the retainers. 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 18:53:51 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: The best Rotors

Johnson, Samuel wrote:

> Who makes the best rotors for you car.  And what would be the difference in
> the best rotor and an average rotor?

Assuming you're talking about ignition rotors and not brake rotors (discs)...I
second the Accel and MSD.  However, let me add that some books I've read on the
subject recommend against mixing brands of caps and rotors.  In other words, if
you get an MSD cap and an Accel rotor, the gap between the rotor terminal and
cap terminal ~may~ be larger than it would otherwise be if you stuck with a the
same brand for both cap and rotor.
- --
Thomas P. Smith
  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/dual exhaust/
        sometimes Q-Jet, sometimes Holley/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 19:01:30 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: More POR 15

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_007F_01BEA6E0.FF7CB2C0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I can't really say for sure on the amount it covered, as I wasn't paying
attention to that.  I am going to re top-coat my frame this weekend, so =
I'll
let the list know how far a quart will go.

Steve Reed
Austin, TX

The one quart that I had painted the entire frame(one coat),  the =
control arms,  rear diff,  and various other things around the house.  I =
still had some in the can,  but it dried out.  I am thinking that those =
folks that had real thick POR 15 might have received a somewhat dried =
out can.  I say this because as I got to the end of the can the paint =
became very thick,  and hard to spread.  always use plastic wrap to seal =
the metal cans before placing the lid on.  The preping of the surface to =
be painted is very important.  It must be completely dry.  I left the =
control arms in the sun for an entire NC summer day,  and they still =
didnt dry enough.  I used the handy-dandy blow tourch to dry them out.   =
You can dilute POR 15 and use it in a sprayer,  but you have to buy the =
POR 15 reducer,  and cleaner.  The stuff is tuff.  I did hit the frame =
with a ball peen hammer(the round end)  and it didnt even chip!  There =
are no two ways about it this sh*t is good!!!
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html

- ------=_NextPart_000_007F_01BEA6E0.FF7CB2C0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I can't really say for sure on the amount it =
covered, as I=20
wasn't paying<BR>attention to that.&nbsp; I am going to re top-coat my =
frame=20
this weekend, so I'll<BR>let the list know how far a quart will =
go.<BR><BR>Steve=20
Reed<BR>Austin, TX<BR><BR>The one quart that I had painted the entire =
frame(one=20
coat),&nbsp; the control arms,&nbsp; rear diff,&nbsp; and various other =
things=20
around the house.&nbsp; I still had some in the can,&nbsp; but it dried=20
out.&nbsp; I am thinking that those folks that had real thick POR 15 =
might have=20
received a somewhat dried out can.&nbsp; I say this because as I got to =
the end=20
of the can the paint became very thick,&nbsp; and hard to spread.&nbsp; =
always=20
use plastic&nbsp;wrap to seal the&nbsp;metal cans before placing the lid =
on. =20
The preping of the surface to be painted is very important.&nbsp; It =
must be=20
completely dry.&nbsp; I left the control arms in the sun for an entire =
NC summer=20
day,&nbsp; and they still didnt dry enough.&nbsp; I used the handy-dandy =
blow=20
tourch to dry them out.&nbsp;  You can dilute POR 15 and use it in a=20
sprayer,&nbsp; but you have to buy the POR 15 reducer,&nbsp; and =
cleaner.&nbsp;=20
The stuff is tuff.&nbsp; I did hit the frame with a ball peen hammer(the =
round=20
end)&nbsp; and it didnt even chip!&nbsp; There are no two ways about it =
this=20
sh*t is good!!!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A><BR>Steve<BR>North=20
Carolina<BR>ICQ#26466860<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html">http://members.xoo=
m.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html</A></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_007F_01BEA6E0.FF7CB2C0--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 17:55:06 CDT
From: "Steve Traynor" <dartster@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Happy99

Sorry if people have already responded to this, but here's the fix. This is 
from Symantec, the Norton people :)

This is a worm program, NOT a virus. This program has reportedly been 
received through email spamming and USENET newsgroup posting. The file is 
usually named HAPPY99.EXE in the email or article attachment.

When being executed, the program also opens a window entitled "Happy New 
Year 1999 !!" showing a firework display to disguise its other actions. The 
program copies itself as SKA.EXE and extracts a DLL that it carries as 
SKA.DLL into WINDOWS\SYSTEM directory. It also modifies WSOCK32.DLL in 
WINDOWS\SYSTEM directory and copies the orginal WSOCK32.DLL into 
WSOCK32.SKA.

WSOCK32.DLL handles internet-connectivity in Windows 95 and 98. The 
modification to WSOCK32.DLL allows the worm routine to be triggered when a 
connect or send activity is detected. When such online activity occurs, the 
modified code loads the worm's SKA.DLL. This SKA.DLL creates a new email or 
a new article with UUENCODED HAPPY99.EXE imserted into the email or article. 
It then sends this email or posts this article.

If WSOCK32.DLL is in use when the worm tries to modify it (i.e. a user is 
online), the worm adds a registry entry:
                        
HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\RunOnce=SKA.EXE

The registry entry loads the worm the next time Windows start.


Removing the worm manually:

     1.delete WINDOWS\SYSTEM\SKA.EXE
     2.delete WINDOWS\SYSTEM\SKA.DLL
     3.in WINDOWS\SYSTEM\ directory, rename WSOCK32.DLL to WSOCK32.BAK
     4.in WINDOWS\SYSTEM\ directory, rename WSOCK32.SKA to WSOCK32.DLL
     5.delete the downloaded file, usually named HAPPY99.EXE

Windows prevents you to do step #3 and #4 above if the machine is still 
connected to the Internet. The file "windows\system\wsock32.dll" is used 
whenever the machine is connected to Internet (i.e. through dial-up or LAN 
connection).


If you are using dial-up connection (i.e. America Online), you need to do 
the following:
1.terminate internet connection
2.delete WINDOWS\SYSTEM\SKA.EXE
3.delete WINDOWS\SYSTEM\SKA.DLL
4.in WINDOWS\SYSTEM\ directory, rename WSOCK32.DLL to WSOCK32.BAK
5.in WINDOWS\SYSTEM\ directory, rename WSOCK32.SKA to WSOCK32.DLL
6.delete the downloaded file, usually named HAPPY99.EXE


If you are connected to Internet through LAN (i.e. in the office or cable 
modem), you need to do the following:

  1.From the Start menu, select shutdown-restart in MS DOS mode
  2.type CD \windows\system when DOS prompt (C:\)appears
  3.type RENAME WSOCK32.DLL WSOCK32.BAK
  4.type RENAME WSOCK32.SKA WSOCK32.DLL
  5.type DEL SKA.EXE
  6.type DEL SKA.DLL


Safe Computing:

This worm and other trojan-horse type programs demonstrate the need to 
practice safe computing. One should not execute any executable-file 
attachment (EXE, SHS, MS Word or MS Excel file) that comes from an email or 
a newsgroup article from an untrusted source.

Norton AntiVirus users can protect themselves from this virus by downloading 
the current virus definitions either through LiveUpdate or from the 
following webpage:

http://www.symantec.com/avcenter/download.html


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 19:00:50 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Transmission shift points

Andrew C. Green wrote:

> >My 71 olds shifts at 50mph during what I would call "light"
> >acceleration.  We have lots of roads with 35MPH speed limits, (with
> >radar).  So I drive a lot around 40MPH.  The car does not shift into
> >3rd when cruising at 40 but feels like it should. Is this normal?
>
> I don't think so. Are you sure you've got vacuum to the vacuum modulator?
> Without it your shift points are held as long as possible

I second Andy's vacuum suspicions.  Had the same problem long ago on my
Cutlass.  The problem was simply a deteriorated vacuum line at the vacuum
fitting on my intake going to my vac modulator.  It slid off very easily one
day when I was tinkering under the hood and I didn't see it happen.  At any
rate, the fix was a new length of vacuum hose.  It was very easy...and cheap.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/dual exhaust/
        sometimes Q-Jet, sometimes Holley/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 19:08:58 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Unread Message problem

Ya dudes ya got to watch out when playing with them DONORCYCLES.  I have
worked in the ER form time to time,  and they are aptly named!
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 1999 4:53 PM
Subject: Re: Unread Message problem


> Andy Lawrence wrote:
> >
> > Hey guys,
> >
> >     I wrecked my CBR900RR about 2 weeks ago, i have been in the hospital
since!
>
> Wow. A guy I know just wrecked his too!!! He was cocked and nobody would
> give him his keys, so he hopped on his bike instead. He was pulling a
> wheelie and forgot that the road curved until it was too late. He ended
> up in one person's front yard and the bike ended up in the yard nest to
> it. He was kinda goofed up for a while, but I guess he's okay now.
>
> --
> ***********
> Matt Cremean
> mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
> *************************
> http://drive.to/73cutlass
> -----------------------
> '73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
> '70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
> '75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
> *************************
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 19:11:25 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Attribute correction was: Transmission shift points

Before anyone jumps my case, let me be the first to apologize.  In my reply to
the "Transmission Shift Points" post, I erroneously left Andrew Green's name in
my reply, thus, implying that he wrote the entire post, rather than just the
comments about the vacuum modulator.  My apologies to Andy.

> Andrew C. Green wrote:
>
> > >My 71 olds shifts at 50mph during what I would call "light"
> > >acceleration.  We have lots of roads with 35MPH speed limits, (with
> > >radar).  So I drive a lot around 40MPH.  The car does not shift into
> > >3rd when cruising at 40 but feels like it should. Is this normal?
> >
> > I don't think so. Are you sure you've got vacuum to the vacuum modulator?
> > Without it your shift points are held as long as possible

- --
Thomas P. Smith
  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/dual exhaust/
        sometimes Q-Jet, sometimes Holley/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 19:24:06 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: brake pedal on a '59 Olds

Jwsherma@aol.com wrote:
> 
> I have a '59 Super 88 with power brakes.  The brakes work fine, but there is
> no return in the pedal...it just sort of hangs there.  It gets stuck on the
> brake light switch on the floor, and the lights stick on.  You have to
> manually lift it off of the switch to turn the brake lights off.  How can
> this be repaired?  Am I missing a spring somewhere in the pedal?  Do I need a
> new switch?  I'm just starting out on this project and any help would be
> greatly appreciated.

If its any consolation, we have a member in our chapter that has a '55
that does the same thing.  In fact, we were on a trip this weekend and
my car load was late for breakfast.  Everyone else was in the restaurant
and his car was in the parking lot with the brake lights on.  I had to
crawl across the passenger seat and pull the brake pedal up.  He's been
working on this problem for a few years now and hasn't come up with a
solution yet.  I guess that isn't any consolation, is it?  Someone over
the weekend suggested a valve spring under the brake pedal, but I don't
know if that would be long enough.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 19:57:59 EDT
From: QWKCUTLASS@aol.com
Subject: Re: PCV vs. breather

I'm using the valve cover brether holes to run my pcv and i have a 
aftermarket intake on my motor and have no problems, so either way should 
work out for ya.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 20:00:58 EDT
From: QWKCUTLASS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 79 Cutlass Supreme

You can probably expect low 13s to high 12s, it depends on track conditions 
and if you hook off the lin, but it should be at about high 12 to low 13, 
with any trouble.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 20:03:22 EDT
From: QWKCUTLASS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 price

I paid 400 dollars for my complete bottom end, but i got a really good deal 
on it..its all Mondello built.  I ended up spending about 4500 - 5000 on the 
engine complete, but i am also running aluminum heads.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 20:10:04 -0400
From: "Richard H. Soard" <rsoard@mindspring.com>
Subject: 79 Cutlass A/C

A/C Compressor has locked up on my 79 Cutlass Supreme (original owner with
115K miles!) and have been told it must be replaced.  Would like to do it
myself but have no A/C experience.  Can purchase compressor and accumulator
for about $160 but am told hoses may need replacing as well due to metal
fragments from compressor sticking to walls of hose.  Also am told I need
to flush system to remove fragments from other components as well.  

I am a shade tree mechanic and believe I can do this myself but need a
little guidance and encouragement.  Can anyone help or direct me to some
specific info.

thanks,
Richard
rsoard@mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 17:23:12 -0700
From: tarzan@foxinternet.net
Subject: Re: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breather)

ed,
are the valve covers new and how much do you want for them? and are they for a
70- 455 442?

Ed Binnix wrote:

> This one I can answer! The M/T Valve covers have a punch out hole in them. I
> have two sets on for use and one for sale (hint, hint, everyone).
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> >
> >I've always been confused on this part here. I just
> >ordered the Holley polished aluminum M/T valve covers
> >from Summit. They look like they don't have a breather
> >on either of them. How does this work? Don't you need
> >some type of a vent in there?
> >===
> >Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> >rockman20@yahoo.com
> >1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
> >1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
> >1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
> >(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
> >_________________________________________________________
> >Do You Yahoo!?
> >Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
> >

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 17:25:49 -0700
From: tarzan@foxinternet.net
Subject: Re: 1971 Olds 442 (fwd)

eric,

will you sell the cars when done with the movie? if so let me know.DAN

Greg Beaulieu wrote:

> This came to me personally. I can't do much for him but I'm sure someone
> here can. You can reach Eric at eb081369@pacbell.net if you want to
> assist.
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>    --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
>              &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: Eric <eb081369@pacbell.net>
> Subject: 1971 Olds 442
>
> Greg,   We are a small paint and body shop in Southern California that
> specializes in cars for the movie and tv industry.  We are preparing 2
> 1971 Olds 442 Convertibles which are all black in color.  We need to
> paint them White with stripes across the hood and deck lid.
> Unfortunately we have no pictures of the scheme as was used by GM and
> would like to make them as authentic as we can.  Neither car has hood
> scoops.
>
> Your assistance would be greatly appreciated.   Thanks,  Eric Bayliss
> (EB081369@PacBell.net)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 20:25:02 EDT
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: 'Starflite' emblem

Group-
bought a collection of older Olds emblems and in the box was a gold-tone 
script that reads "Starflite'--not Starfire, or Starchief, but Starflite. 
Anybody know what this emblem might be for? Can't seem to track any Olds with 
this moniker, but maybe somebody in list-land has an idea.
TIA
Peter
coupeking

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 20:34:38 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: 'Starflite' emblem

COUPEKING@aol.com wrote:
> 
> in the box was a gold-tone
> script that reads "Starflite'--not Starfire, or Starchief, but Starflite.
> Anybody know what this emblem might be for? 

I was all ready to shout DESOTO!  Then I realized they had the
FIREflite...  Shucks.  What do we win if we get the answer right?

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 20:56:37 EDT
From: Knightvd@aol.com
Subject: Re: garage floor(non-olds)

In a message dated 5/25/99 11:18:55 AM Central Daylight Time, brett@mcs.com 
writes:

<< They 
 said that the stuff sold at local home centers will not hold up.  
 It must be a multi-part epoxy.  >>

You might be able to get the epoxy in your area, but your going to have to 
ask around.  I found it a local True Value superstore.  It was sold "behind 
the counter".  The floor turned out great.  Preparation is definitely key.  
Clean with detergent and etch the concrete with acid.  Thoroughly rinse and 
let dry!!!

Downside - floor is wet when slick!  I can't drive a car up on ramps anymore 
either, the ramps slide.

Vince Knight
71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 17:57:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: John Livingston <john@johnlivingston.com>
Subject: Who'll 442 shop for me in Dayton/Cinci area?

This is an odd request, but then this isn't your normal bunch of folks, either!

George in Louisianna (George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>) has sorta taken me
under his wing and has been, along with other folks on this great list,
helping me in my Cutlass convertible search. I, and about a million other
folks, saw the 70 442 convert ad on 442.com (see ref below). It's in
Middletown, Ohio. Mapquest tells me there's three of them in that state,
but as near as I can tell it's the one between Dayton and Cincinnati.
Assuming it hasn't already been sold, anyone in that area willing to take a
gander for me? Maybe we can start a new trend: proxy shopping! Anyhow, if
you're in that area and would like to contribute to the dissolution of my
marriage, go take a look for me. The big question is,  would it make the
680 miles from Middletown to Newport News, VA, on it's own power (and could
I really afford the gas?)

John "The Dreamer" Livingston
Newport News, VA

PS The 68 442 in L.A. for 10K doesn't sound too bad, either!


ref: Date Posted 5/24/1999 - I have a 1970 Oldsmobile 442 I am selling for
my uncle. The car has 85,000 original miles. It is a convertible. The color
is blue with a white top. The interior is also a light blue. It has the 455
motor, never rebuilt or taken out, runs very strong. Automatic
transmission. Power windows and top, tilt wheel, abover average chrome,
oxidized paint. Always been garaged. Original spare tire. New exhaust,
fairly new tires, and a new battery. The price is $6,000, fairly firm.
farm_hand21@hotmail.com 513-424-4421 Middletown, Ohio AD # 12590829

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 20:59:01 EDT
From: CUTLASS442@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1972 Buick 350 into 1985 Olds?

I wish i had an answer for you. I'm doing a similar project with a '67 
Cutlass. I'm putting a '73 Buick 455 in it. Only problem so far is that I 
didn't have the correct frame mounts. I had to make a set of block mounts 
that will bolt up to the Olds frame mounts.

As far as the trans goes....I think the bell housings are the same.

Richard
1967 "Oldsmobuick" Cutlass

<< Here's the delemma.
 I have a 1972-74 Buick 350 sitting in the garage.
 It worked fine when removed last year...
 The 1985 Cutlass 305 has given up
 the ghost ... gallon of oil a week...
 
 Will the 74 Buick 350 slide into the 85 Olds ...
 bolt to the 85 transmission ...
 or ... allow a 74 350 TH Tranny to bolt up.
 
 List assist greatly appreciated ...
 
 Ken Swick
 swickka@pa.net  >>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 21:03:56 EDT
From: CUTLASS442@aol.com
Subject: Re: 455 price

I've found 3 different Olds 455s in 3 different junk yards. All three yards 
told me $450-$500

Richard
1967 "Oldsmobuick" Cutlass

<< Just curious about a good price for a 455.  My Delmont is screaming for 
 another engine and from what I've seen so far, it doesn't make sense to 
build 
 up the 350.  What should I expect when I head to the junkyard?
  >>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 21:23:46 EDT
From: Jetaway4sp@aol.com
Subject: Re: brake pedal on a '59 Olds

Jwsherma@aol.com writes:
 I have a '59 Super 88 with power brakes.  The brakes work fine, but there is 
 no return in the pedal...it just sort of hangs there.  It gets stuck on the 
 brake light switch on the floor, and the lights stick on >>
_____________________________________________________________________
Several things in the power brake unit may have failed or if it has been 
sitting for a long time it may free up eventually.
 However, you could have more serious problems in store. If the hydraulic 
plunger is sticking you will be burning up your brake shoes and run the risk 
of the brakes totally fading out.
While the car is off and the pedal is stuck in the down position, disconnect 
the vacuum supply to the power brake unit. If the pedal releases, that would 
indicate that an air valve or the vacuum piston in the power unit is sticking.
If the pedal does not release, the hydraulic plunger could be the culprit. 
The original units actually used leather for sealing the diaphragm, so new 
seals wouldn't hurt. Regardless, you are probably going to have to pull the 
unit and have it rebuilt. Better safe than sorry.

Randy in Oklahoma
57 88 J2

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 20:26:20 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: PCV Tech

> > Why do you need PCV at all (aside from emissions laws)? The older cars
> > didn't have them. I know of people who have eliminated them with no
> > *immediate or apparent* problems. I was just going to use breathers, but

The reason for PCV systems, "Positive Crancase Ventilation" is to remove blowby
from the engine block.  No rings will seal "perfectly" no matter how much you
spend on 'em ;) so ~some~ combustion vapors will blow by the rings into the
crankcase.  If left unalterred, the crankcase will fill with this vapor, and
become pressurized.  You thought those valve covers were a *%#&^% to seal
normally?  ;)  Imagine a few PSI inside 'em!  ;)  Oil leaks everywhere.  So,
they needed a method to get rid of those vapors, get 'em out of the crankcase,
at least.  

As mentioned, early systems used the road-draft tube, which used the under-car
air as a venturi-effect, to "suck" the vapors out.  Very simple, and crude.  
And
messy, etc.  Eventually, the PCV system we now use came into being, and relied
on manifold vacuum to suck the vapors out.  Since this contains oil, exhaust,
and raw fuel in a vapor, it's combustible (another reason to get it out!)  So,
they reburn it, just like EGR, (except a touch more efficient).  While the
manifold vacuum is sucking from one side of the engine (valve cover) fresh air
is being let in through the other side, to prevent a vacuum from forming in the
crankcase (making blowby actually worse.)

Racers have used a crankcase evacuation system, which basically involves a tube
plumbed into the exhaust pipe at an angle, so the exhaust flow, acting as a
venturi, sucks the vapors out.  The ones I've seen had downpipes on each side,
presumably a breather through the oil fill tube.  They need a check valve in 
the
downpipes, so that backfires cannot blow into the crankcase...  the ultimate
blowby... or should that be blow... bye.  Theoretically the vapor is burned up
by the time it leaves the exhaust pipe, but emissions probably are affected, so
check local laws before considerring something like this.  Rumorred to be 
highly
effective, though, and doesn't contaminate the air/fuel charge going into the
cylinders....  a must for racers.

- -- 
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://drive.to/Oldsmagnet    See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 22:26:22 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1972 Buick 350 into 1985 Olds?

In a message dated 5/25/99 6:00:51 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
CUTLASS442@aol.com writes:

<<  wish i had an answer for you. I'm doing a similar project with a '67 
 Cutlass. I'm putting a '73 Buick 455 in it. Only problem so far is that I 
 didn't have the correct frame mounts. I had to make a set of block mounts 
 that will bolt up to the Olds frame mounts.
 
 As far as the trans goes....I think the bell housings are the same.
 
 Richard
 1967 "Oldsmobuick" Cutlass >>

Buick doesn't by any chance use the same mounts as Potiac do they? Or, how 
about the 3.8 litre..do they use the same mounts (at least on the block) as 
an 8 cylinder Buick. Just some ideas, Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 22:35:44 -0400
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: Englishtown = Old Bridge something or other

What's the actual name of Englishtown.  Old Bridge rAceway or something?
Thanks.


Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 3.8 Calais
John Deere LX176 with no hood, a throttle linkage bracket held in place with
a ziptie, a mower deck bar with deep sockets as washers, and a beat
alternator.  John Deere can burn in hell.  The wheelhorse lasted 18 years
and the damn thing would do wheelies if you side-stepped the clutch in third
gear.  What a workhorse that wheelhorse was.
Bucks County, PA
mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 22:44:21 -0400
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: brake pedal on a '59 Olds

I'm not sure if the older Oldsmobiles are set up the same way as the newer dual
reservoir master cylinders are - but I had a master cylinder do the same thing 
- it
turned out that the return spring in the bottom of the cylinder had broken.  
Like I
said - I am not familiar with the single reservoir systems - but may be worth a
look - replaced that and had no more problems with dragging brakes and brake 
lights
being stuck on...
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310 hp tied to a Jetaway and 2.73's
(hopefully soon to be 4.11's!!!)

Paul Hartlieb wrote:

> Jwsherma@aol.com wrote:
> >
> > I have a '59 Super 88 with power brakes.  The brakes work fine, but there 
is
> > no return in the pedal...it just sort of hangs there.  It gets stuck on the
> > brake light switch on the floor, and the lights stick on.  You have to
> > manually lift it off of the switch to turn the brake lights off.  How can
> > this be repaired?  Am I missing a spring somewhere in the pedal?  Do I 
need a
> > new switch?  I'm just starting out on this project and any help would be
> > greatly appreciated.
>
> If its any consolation, we have a member in our chapter that has a '55
> that does the same thing.  In fact, we were on a trip this weekend and
> my car load was late for breakfast.  Everyone else was in the restaurant
> and his car was in the parking lot with the brake lights on.  I had to
> crawl across the passenger seat and pull the brake pedal up.  He's been
> working on this problem for a few years now and hasn't come up with a
> solution yet.  I guess that isn't any consolation, is it?  Someone over
> the weekend suggested a valve spring under the brake pedal, but I don't
> know if that would be long enough.
>
> Paul
> --
> Paul Hartlieb
> Myerstown, PA
> mailto:plh@nbn.net

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1978
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