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cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1972


oldsmobile-digest       Saturday, May 22 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1972



Re: To wax or not to wax?
Help Smoke
Re: How much of a bear is adding A/C?
Re: WE NEED AN OLDS BIG BODY CLUB
Re: WE NEED AN OLDS BIG BODY CLUB
new style master on 72??
RE: window cleaner
Re: WE NEED AN OLDS BIG BODY CLUB
Test
Re: Test
Re: ICQ and Lila Update
Re: 600 miles and done
Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!
Re: Need carb rebuild hints
Engine update
Re: Engine update
Carbs again...
Manual Cutlass
Re: How much of a bear is adding A/C?
Re: Engine update
Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!
OCC show tommorow
RE: Phenomenal Phind
Re: How much of a bear is adding A/C?
Re: How much of a bear is adding A/C? re: Vintage Air
Re: Need carb rebuild hints
Olds VIN decoder updated!
Re: Rally
Re: emission decal
New items: posi carr, decklid
Re: emission decal
Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!
Re: window cleaner
Re: emission decal
Re: 350 rocket defined
Re: WE NEED AN OLDS BIG BODY CLUB
Quincy's Pending Compleation.
Re: Phenomenal Phind
RE: Quincy's Pending Compleation.
Re: Carbs again...
My New Clutch
Rallye 350 Update
Um, spontaneous Rocket Talk?
Bumper question
Re: Um, spontaneous Rocket Talk?
Help needed to stop pinging!
'72 Delta 88 Royale Conv. resto question..

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 05:48:50 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: To wax or not to wax?

- --- Dave Cullen <david.cullen@snet.net> wrote:
> >
> >And to add an even better twist, after my crappy
> paint
> >job at Macco, they advised me NOT to use a wax. I
> was
> >to ONLY use a high quality polish.
> 
> New paint should *not* be waxed for at least 90
> days. Silicones in the wax
> can react with the paint and prevent full curing.
> 
> Polishes and glazes without Silicones are OK. Check
> the labels.
=================================

They told me no car washes in that 90 days also. They
also told me to stay clear of the brush type automatic
washes. Now, I would never take my Olds to one of
those. For some reason I love spending hours on a nice
day washing and detailing my car. It just made me
wonder why they stressed the importance of using no
wax. They said that after the 90 days I could use a
high grade polish but that's it. *shrugging shoulders*
Doesn't matter, the Macco job will be off sometime in
the future by me......if it doesn't all flake off first!
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 08:45:42 -0400
From: "Meyer, Erich" <EMeyer@mdsctl.com>
Subject: Help Smoke

	Hello list I need some help.
	Last week I was on the way home in my 84 H/O with a three week old
rebuild Olds 350 (mild rebuild). I was on the highway doing around 130-140
Km. I noticed a cloud of white thick smoke coming from my rear (two lanes
wide and about 1 km long). I pulled over and shut the motor down. I waited
for it too cool off and inspected everything. I was low on water and assumed
I blow a head gasket, but no water in the oil. I then looked under the car
and noticed an oil like fluid from the tranny back. I drove home p/o but had
to get home and didn't care if the motor went because it was only a few
weeks old and had warranty on it.
	When I got close to home you could hear a loud knock like a spun
bearing or demmoed lifter. I then had the company that did the motor work
for me come out twice to inspect the motor. On the second time we took off
the rocker covers to find that the pass side push rods were done, they had a
lip on all of them from rubbing don't know how or why. We flipped them over
to see if this fixed the noise. This did not work. I was told it could be my
torque converter because the noise sounds similar to a converter that has
been demmoed. They said to unbolt torque converter and push it back to see
if the sound goes away. I will do this today but I still wont have a car
this weekend. Does anyone out there have any other ideas on what this could
be or is the shop just blowing smoke? 

	 
	Erich 84 H/O

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 08:50:51 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: How much of a bear is adding A/C?

As others have pointed out, adding A/C to a non-A/C car can be done in a number
of ways.

The easiest (and ugliest) is one of the more common generic aftermarket units
that use the "wart" under the dash.  These typically use a York compressor (the
ones that look like Briggs and Stratton lawnmower engines) and a HUGE 
evaporator
housing that bolts under the dash.  They are self-contained and typically
require only the drilling of a few holes in the firewall.

Next would be the hot rod style units as exemplified by Vintage Air and several
other vendors.  These were originally designed for street rod use, so they are
somewhat smaller both in size and in cooling capacity.  Vintage Air actually
makes a kit for Chevelles which could be adapted to the Cutlass/442 bodies, and
the in-car side of the system is designed to tuck up under the dash as much as
possible (unlike the generic systems discussed above).  These units can be had
with A/C only (to augment the factory heat) or with combined A/C, heat, and
defrost in one unit to replace the factory airbox on the outside of the
firewall.  A blockoff plate is available to close off the hole where the 
factory
heater box went, providing for a smooth firewall.  The other nice thing about
these units is that they usually use the small, late-model compressors, making
for a more sanitary underhood look.  Naturally you can get compressor brackets
for any motor you want, so long as it's a Chevy...

Finally, you can try to adapt a factory A/C from a donor car.  Note in this
latter case that you will need to get _EVERYTHING_ from the donor car, 
including
all the under-dash ducting, controls, vacuum hoses, brackets, clips, etc.  You
will also need to use the firewall of the donor car as a template for cutting
the firewall on your car.  This obviously requires a major disassembly of your
current car, including the removal of the dash, hood, passenger fender, etc.

In the design of my 66 442 convert project, I was convinced that I wanted to 
use
a Vintage Air (or similar) unit to convert my currently non-A/C car, as I 
wanted
to have the smooth firewall look (the car will not be stock).  As I researched
the available aftermarket systems, the one drawback that they all have is that
they do not draw external air on any of their settings, they only recirculate
internal air.  Now, this is not the end of the world, especially for a
convertible, however I was put off by the fact that in the winter with the heat
on and the the windows up I would not be able to get fresh air in the system.
In the end, this fact (and the $1000+ price tag for these systems by the time
you get everything you need) led me to use a factory A/C from a parts car I
bought.  The 64-67 cars actually have a little more complex integration of the
A/C than the 68-72 cars, so your job will be a little easier than mine.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 09:15:41 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: WE NEED AN OLDS BIG BODY CLUB

In a message dated 5/21/99 4:20:03 AM EST, john@johnlivingston.com writes:

<< I'm only 5' 10" but about 200 lbs. Certainly most of my students think I'm
 old. Would I qualify for the club? >>

Sorry, minimum rear end has to be 243. (but you came close)!
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 09:21:29 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: WE NEED AN OLDS BIG BODY CLUB

In a message dated 5/21/99 7:28:06 AM EST, plh@nbn.net writes:

<< The National Antique Oldsmobile Club currently accepts all Oldsmobiles
 up to 1964, but the Board of Directors will soon be voting on whether or
 not to expand that to include all full-sized cars up to 1973.
 
 Keep your fingers crossed,
  >>
That's refreshing, but what about extending it to 75's. After all in less 
than 7 months they will be 25yrs old. ( actually, since new models come out 
in September of the previous year, it's really only 4 months)  Doesn't that 
make it an antique?
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 09:23:15 -0700
From: joe lewis <lewis@amada.net>
Subject: new style master on 72??

> Im looking to put a plastic and aluminum master cylinder with a 1 inch bore
> on my 72 cutlass. The car currently has 12 front rotors,11 inch rear drums.
> Someone on the list suggested using an 81 cutlass master. I picked one up, 3
> problems the body was cast first off, the line size was opposite that screws
> into the master. i was unsure if i could put the rear brake line to the front
> of the master and the front brake line to the rear of the master. Third the
> reservoirs seem real small.  So i opt to return it. Thanks for any input.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 08:29:35 -0500
From: "Johnson, Samuel" <SJohnso6@allstate.com>
Subject: RE: window cleaner

When I clean my windows I like to clean it with wax, It seems to really
clean the window and when it rains the rain just beads off of the glass.
Don't have to use the wiper at all.

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Mike McLeod [SMTP:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca]
> Sent:	Thursday, May 20, 1999 9:20 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca; mikemcleod@msn.com
> Subject:	window cleaner
> 
> After reading all of the wax comments, it made me think of cleaning car
> windows. What can I use to clean the containment's off of glass. I use to
> have a good cleaner, bought it years ago. Don't remember the name of it.
> Someone broke into my garage and it was one of the things they stole among
> other things. But I sure miss a good glass cleaner.
> 
> Michael McLeod
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 09:43:13 -0400
From: "Robert McCarthy" <robm4@gis.net>
Subject: Re: WE NEED AN OLDS BIG BODY CLUB

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BEA36E.5815B420
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Do they (NAOC) have a website?  I'm pretty sure my '65 442 is an =
antique, maybe they'll let me in.
- ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: JonKrisInc@aol.com=20
  To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca=20
  Sent: Friday, May 21, 1999 9:21 AM
  Subject: Re: WE NEED AN OLDS BIG BODY CLUB


  In a message dated 5/21/99 7:28:06 AM EST, plh@nbn.net writes:

  << The National Antique Oldsmobile Club currently accepts all =
Oldsmobiles
   up to 1964, but the Board of Directors will soon be voting on whether =
or
   not to expand that to include all full-sized cars up to 1973.
  =20
   Keep your fingers crossed,
    >>
  That's refreshing, but what about extending it to 75's. After all in =
less=20
  than 7 months they will be 25yrs old. ( actually, since new models =
come out=20
  in September of the previous year, it's really only 4 months)  Doesn't =
that=20
  make it an antique?
  Bruce
  75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course)


- ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BEA36E.5815B420
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000080><FONT face=3D"Century Gothic"><FONT =
size=3D3>Do they (NAOC)=20
have a website?&nbsp; I'm pretty sure my '65 442 is an antique, maybe=20
they'</FONT>ll let me in.</FONT></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000080 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A href=3D"mailto:JonKrisInc@aol.com"=20
  title=3DJonKrisInc@aol.com>JonKrisInc@aol.com</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A=20
  href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca"=20
  title=3Doldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Friday, May 21, 1999 9:21 =
AM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> Re: WE NEED AN OLDS =
BIG BODY=20
  CLUB</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>In a message dated 5/21/99 7:28:06 AM EST, <A=20
  href=3D"mailto:plh@nbn.net">plh@nbn.net</A> writes:<BR><BR>&lt;&lt; =
The National=20
  Antique Oldsmobile Club currently accepts all Oldsmobiles<BR>&nbsp;up =
to 1964,=20
  but the Board of Directors will soon be voting on whether =
or<BR>&nbsp;not to=20
  expand that to include all full-sized cars up to =
1973.<BR>&nbsp;<BR>&nbsp;Keep=20
  your fingers crossed,<BR>&nbsp; &gt;&gt;<BR>That's refreshing, but =
what about=20
  extending it to 75's. After all in less <BR>than 7 months they will be =
25yrs=20
  old. ( actually, since new models come out <BR>in September of the =
previous=20
  year, it's really only 4 months)&nbsp; Doesn't that <BR>make it an=20
  antique?<BR>Bruce<BR>75 Delta 88 conv (duals of=20
course)<BR></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BEA36E.5815B420--

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 09:56:29 -0400
From: "Meyer, Erich" <EMeyer@mdsctl.com>
Subject: Test

Hello I have sent several e-mails but they have not been listed so here is a
test e-mail.

Erich 84 H/O

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 10:31:51 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Test

In a message dated 05/21/1999 10:03:24 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
EMeyer@mdsctl.com writes:

<< Hello I have sent several e-mails but they have not been listed so here is 
a
 test e-mail.
 
 Erich 84 H/O
  >>

We got your test.  It seems to be working

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 08:49:23 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: ICQ and Lila Update

Hi Ben,

Ben Markert wrote:
> 
> She has a small problem, with the back-up
> lights. They flash when you put her in reverse, but they dont burn. The
> bulbs are ok, the wiring looks OK. I have tried a few things I can think to
> try. Any ideas?

Have you adjusted the backup switch?  If you set up a mirror so you can
see the lights from inside the car then you adjust the switch.  Right
now you are probably going past the on position just as you going into
reverse.  I think the position of the switch depend on if you have a
console or a column shift so I can't help anymore.

Hope this helps,
- -- 

Cliff "Living in reverse" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 08:56:18 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@UCALGARY.CA>
Subject: Re: 600 miles and done

Hi Corey,

Corey Putnam wrote:
> 
>     I tried new oil filter(just in case) same pressure, tried another
> guage(that I knew was good) same pressure.
>  Pulled the oil pan about three hours ago and found two inch and a half
> long pieces of bearing material. My engine is done.
>    I`m not a quitter, I`m out of money. I put over 10 grand in this
> project and can`t scrape anymore. I`ll find out in the morning if the
> shop that built it will stand behind their work. There was no warranty
> since mine was a "custom" order. Live and learn.

Since they assembled the entire engine, fired it up, and dynoed it (they
can't say you didn't prime the pump or something) there's no way they
shouldn't pay for 50% or more of the repair.  That's only my opinion of
course, if they won't even negotiate then it's time to talk to a lawyer
and the BBB.

Good luck, we all feel for you,
- -- 

Cliff "Hates engine shops" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 09:22:28 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!

John Livingston wrote:
> 
> <snip> However, I also find that you tend to get a bit more oil on the
> garage floor as synthetics seem to work their way past oil seals a bit more
> easily than regular lubricants. I hear this is more of a problem with the
> older cars many of us enjoy. Not a huge deal, tho.

I wouldn't drive a car that is afraid to mark it's territory ;')
- -- 

Cliff "Oilspot" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 11:43:25 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Need carb rebuild hints

Joe,
I've done quite a few.  No real magic involved to do a straight rebuild.
Pay attention to the linkage on the choke side when you're taking it apart.
Could become a little confusing when you go to reassemble.  All links have
to be on proper sides of levers.  Hope your choke pull-off  can still
works.  Replacements are hard to find around here.  One bit of linkage which
is somewhat hidden is the choke link.  It runs inside the housing and
attaches with a screw to the end of the choke butterfly shaft on the top of
the carb.  You have to remove that screw, then take the link and rotate it
90 deg to disengage it from a lever inside the carb housing.  It's a
challenge to get it back together if you're doing it for the first (or even
fifth) time but you'll get it.

If your carb is on the cruddy side, you might want to take the choke
mechanism apart.  There are a few small screws and clips which hold the
plastic cover on the choke pod.  There's a bimetal spring in there which
moves the choke linkage when it warms up.  Air has to circulate through the
pod from that external tube which runs down into the intake manifold.
There's a small hole, maybe 1/32 dia, in the inside corner of the pod at 4
o'clock position which goes into the foot (one of three) running from the
pod to the main housing.  You'll have to rotate the levers inside there out
of the way to see it.  That hole can get clogged, run a piece of wire
through it.  If it is clogged the choke can stay on for an inordinate amount
of time.  It sounds complicated on paper, but if you have the hardware in
front of you you'll be able to see it.

Be careful when you remove and reinstall the power piston with the primary
metering rods.  The ends of the rods are small in diameter and can be bent
especially on reinstallation.

Instructions in the rebuild kits are usually pretty good.  In the Hygrade
kits they give you a small paper rule to set the float height.  It has a
printed inch scale on it which won't be very accurate to use cause the scale
gets printed a avrying distance from the end so the last indicated 1/32"
could actually be 3 times that.  Either trim it accurately or use a metal
rule.  One thing that would be really helpful to you would be to get a copy
of Doug Roe's book on Rochester Carburetors.  Highly recommended.  Lots of
pictures and illustrations.  Also a complete chapter on rebuilding.  Very
good.  If you have a good library in your town you might find it there or
you could try interlibrary loan.  There are usually copies in Barnes &
Noble.

Good luck.  Don't let it intimidate you.  Save all the little pieces.

Dude
J&T wrote:

> I'm going to attempt a rebuild on my carb, 70 quadrajet. If anyone has
> any helpful hints on what to do or not to do, I would greatly appreciate
> it.
>                                                  Thanks,
>                                                     Joe

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 10:58:33 -0500 (EST)
From: hurst455@webtv.net (Corey Putnam)
Subject: Engine update

   Thanks to everyone for the encouragement, I`m trying to keep a good
attitude through this whole mess. I heard form the machine shop about 10
minutes ago, they aren`t saying they won`t help, but they aren`t saying
they will either. They want to tear the oil pump apart and want me to
remove some main caps to try and find the problem before they make any
statements, I guess.
   One thing I don`t know if I told the list before is that on the first
dyno attempt they had to shut it down due to metal in the oil. They
pulled the crank and turned it and put new bearings in. They still have
never told me or the speed-shop that contracted them what problem they
found(or if they ever found the problem!) so there is a history on this
engine allready!
   I`ll keep posting as I go, I don`t know if anyone is really
interested but it makes me feel better to be able at least to write
about it and get some imput from people that`s been through the same
thing.   

Corey Putnam
75 H/O W-30(down for awhile)
87 Regal w/Olds 455(Mama`s ride)
H/OCA #0915A
OCC #0208
OCA #031264
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 13:07:04 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: Engine update

Wow, Corey;

If there is a history of a previous problem I, (personally), WOULD NOT open
up the crank caps. You may destroy some sort of proof that an improper
previous procedure effected the current failure. Since there is a previous
incident, call them on the carpet. I doubt at this point by merely pulling
the pan that you have disturbed the origin of this problem. I would pull a
sample of the existing oil into a sterile, (or as clean as possible), oil
sample for possible testing for contaminants. You want to reserve any
information that may be used as future proof. You should also attempt to get
a sample of the coolant from the block also to test for possible
contaminants. You should also take pictures of the bottom end. If I remember
you mentioned having seen a hunk of bearing where it didn't belong. Document
it with a picture but don't disturb it.

You have them at this point. I don't believe previous to this post that you
mentioned there was a previous "Dyno" problem with this engine that directly
may or may not relate to their workmanship. Nonetheless, it does prove there
was previous damage to this engine bottom end while the engine was in there
hands.

I don't care if there was a custom contract on this engine build or not.
Poor workmanship is poor workmanship. It seems that they did in fact
assemble/machine something wrong the first go around. This current failure
may be directly related to that first failure in some way. DONT Disturb the
failed area. Sounds like they want you to destroy possible proof. Think
about it. Latter on you won't have a leg to stand on as they can say, "Well
the client disturbed the effected area so there is no telling what caused
the failure". That pretty much removes responsibility from them to you.

I would demand they correct the failure at there cost or you will involve an
attorney and inform your State Attorneys General with a complaint of there
apparent 2 failed attempts of doing this rebuild. Especially seeing that
there is a previous failure related to there workmanship. My opinion is that
as long as you don't disturb the failure area, you are holding the cards at
this point.  Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

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- -------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Corey Putnam <hurst455@webtv.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, May 21, 1999 11:58 AM
Subject: Engine update


>    Thanks to everyone for the encouragement, I`m trying to keep a good
> attitude through this whole mess. I heard form the machine shop about 10
> minutes ago, they aren`t saying they won`t help, but they aren`t saying
> they will either. They want to tear the oil pump apart and want me to
> remove some main caps to try and find the problem before they make any
> statements, I guess.
>    One thing I don`t know if I told the list before is that on the first
> dyno attempt they had to shut it down due to metal in the oil. They
> pulled the crank and turned it and put new bearings in. They still have
> never told me or the speed-shop that contracted them what problem they
> found(or if they ever found the problem!) so there is a history on this
> engine allready!
>    I`ll keep posting as I go, I don`t know if anyone is really
> interested but it makes me feel better to be able at least to write
> about it and get some imput from people that`s been through the same
> thing.
>
> Corey Putnam
> 75 H/O W-30(down for awhile)
> 87 Regal w/Olds 455(Mama`s ride)
> H/OCA #0915A
> OCC #0208
> OCA #031264
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 11:27:20 -0600
From: "Blaine S." <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: Carbs again...

I noticed that some of you were saying that the carbs that came on 442's
were better than those on regular ol' 455's.  Is that really true?  What's
the difference?  Because I have a good carb off a '68 442, and the carb that
came stock on my '69 98 455 motor.  Would the '68 442 carb give me better
performance than the '69 98 455 carb?

Thanks,
Blaine

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 12:21:42 -0500
From: "Ryan McFarland" <curmm@mail.pen.eiu.edu>
Subject: Manual Cutlass

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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I have a 1988 Cutlass Supreme International Series with a 5 speed manual =
transmission.  I have been told by many that this is a rare car and I =
was curious to find out just how many of this type of car was made.

Ryan McFarland

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<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I have a 1988 Cutlass Supreme International Series =
with a 5=20
speed manual transmission.&nbsp; I have been told by many that this is a =
rare=20
car and I was curious to find out just how many of this type of car was=20
made.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Ryan McFarland</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 12:55:24 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: How much of a bear is adding A/C?

John, 

You heard other peoples descriptions... pretty scary, right?
Well, I am planning to get my car to non a/c and that is something gave 
up. (I will still get the alternator setup to non a/c but no way for the 
original look including dash etc.)

My advice is: Keep looking for the *right* car! Don't get anything that 
needs conversion to match your wishes. Rather spend 12k instead of 10 and 
get excactly what you are looking for. Also consider travelling to look 
at the car of your choice. It is all still going to be much less hassle 
then fiddling with something mechanically boring and still complicated 
like an a/c.

BTW: What excacty are you looking for? Maybe you should post your wishes 
to the list and somebody will be able to help you. Did ou try classifieds 
on the internet? Hemmings? 
What about a trip to the nats? Sure a good place to find a decent car if 
you bring cash!

- ---------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. A/C car with no a/c ... 
- ---------------------

On Thu, 20 May 1999, John Livingston wrote:

> Dear Lucky Olds Owners,
> 
> I've been dragging my poor family up hill and down dale the last four
> months looking at 68-72 Cutlass & 442 converts. I'm looking for something
> around $10K or less, but seem to find lots of pretty rough "projects" that
> often have all the power options I'd like, or I find non-A/C, optionless
> cars that otherwise are very nice.
> 
> My question is, is it really more trouble than it's worth to try to
> retrofit A/C to a non-A/C car? Seems like changing most anything else, be
> it disk brakes, engines, trannies, etc., is not that big a deal.
> Unfortunately, it's hot and humid enough in southeastern Virginia that
> having A/C can really be a blessing, particularly for us overweight old
> farts who, by local ordinance, must remain fully clothed at all times.
> 
> Should I happen to fall in love with a non A/C car and want to add A/C
> later, would you try to go factory, or go with an aftermarket package, like
> Vintage Air's? (I'm looking for a less-than-perfect driver that shouldn't
> make Ransom Eli roll over if modified.) I've even thought of buying a
> rusted-out sedan with A/C just to get all the necessary bits, but I haven't
> had the nerve to confess these unholy thoughts to my sainted wife.
> 
> Thanks in advance for your comments.
> 
> John Livingston
> Oldless in Newport News, VA
> 
> PS Wasn't there a list member recently who wanted to take the air out of
> his Cutlass? I wonder if he can cook.
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 13:47:00 -0500
From: "Hitson, Roger" <HITSOR@mail.dmh.state.mo.us>
Subject: Re: Engine update

Corey,

What he said.
 ----------
From: gjcouse
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Engine update
Date: Friday, May 21, 1999 12:07PM

Wow, Corey;

<stuff snipped>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 14:39:31 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!

This has been addressed before the fact that an engine that did fine with
Dino in the crankcase
suddenly becomes a leaker with synthetic however an engine that after
breakin subsists solely
on sythetic never seems to exhibit a leak prone attitude seems strange but I
have taken apart a few of the sudden leakers and found that the rear and
front seals seem to get stiff and brittle  but this doesnt explain a lack of
this symptom in the synth only car any guesses, I believe mobile did some
research on this after a few complaints but cant seem to find the info...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Saturday, May 22, 1999 10:22 AM
Subject: Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!


>
> John Livingston wrote:
> >
> > <snip> However, I also find that you tend to get a bit more oil on the
> > garage floor as synthetics seem to work their way past oil seals a bit
more
> > easily than regular lubricants. I hear this is more of a problem with
the
> > older cars many of us enjoy. Not a huge deal, tho.
>
> I wouldn't drive a car that is afraid to mark it's territory ;')
> --
>
> Cliff "Oilspot" Simpson
> mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
> '69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
> http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 15:10:54 -0500 (EST)
From: hurst455@webtv.net (Corey Putnam)
Subject: OCC show tommorow

   I can`t enter my H/O but I`m still going to be there. I`ll be the guy
carrying a photo album w/pictures of my baby. I hope to see someone from
the list there. I`ll be going to digest mode around 8pm tonight so I
don`t get "bounced". 

Corey Putnam
75 H/O W-30(down for awhile)
87 Regal w/Olds 455(Mama`s ride)
H/OCA #0915A
OCC #0208
OCA #031264
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 15:41:04 -0500
From: Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com
Subject: RE: Phenomenal Phind

where are you at?

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Chris Brown Witt [SMTP:wittchri@pilot.msu.edu]
> Sent:	Thursday, May 20, 1999 9:49 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca; wittchri@pilot
> Subject:	Phenomenal Phind
> 
> Saw an ad in the local small town paper today... yard sale, Oldsmobile
> p
> arts. Stopped by on the way home to investigate. What an
> understatement.
> 40x60 pole barn and a trailer  with all sorts of items. Guy used to
> work
> at Olds I guess, boxes full of NOS items in the package. NOS 1/4
> panels
> on the wall. Dealer displays. Aerotech and similar go-karts with gas
> motors. 59? 98 2-door with J-2 tri-carb setup. '68 Cutlass with
> FACTORY
> EXPERIMENTAL 455, Mondello modified K heads, 518 CID. On the stand, a
> 600hp 350 motor. Various & sundry blocks sitting here & there.
> Outside,
> a real '68 H/O, currently sporting incorrect motor. Z-Z paint code.
> This
> man even has rigged up an ELEVATOR out of a garage door opener
> mechanism
> to lift parts upstairs in the barn. Oh, and outside... is a mid 80Õs??
> Toronado, modified with ***2 rear axles*** and an ElCamino bed. [btw,
> recently saw a Hot Wheels similar car, with wrecker boom fitted to
> it.]
> In the barn, also, a Vista of '72 or so getting a 3" top chop.
> Outside,
> a VERY pretty rustless, needs paint, etc. 71-2 Cutlass 2-door project
> car, he said $1500 would take it. WELL worth that in rust repair
> savings
> alone. In the pole barn also, boxes and boxes of Ô91 and '96
> Literature,
> new. I was on the way home... could not even START to assess all that
> the man has there.
> 
> Turns out I knew the man, never got around to visiting him at this
> location. He used to live on the street where I grew up. That's where/
> when he made that ultra-shorty sparkly green & black doorless '57?
> that folks marveled at during the centennial meet.
> 
> I would like to get photos of the 3-axle Toronado-Camino, the
> experimental block, and the green chopped car, but technology is
> limited here. Would anyone care to post these on a web page?
> 
> If you check the date, youÕll see this is NOT 01 April.
> -RS-
> 
> 
> --
> Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
> Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
> --
> 517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
> Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 15:50:36 CDT
From: "Steve Traynor" <dartster@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: How much of a bear is adding A/C?

I actually have the air out of my 70 Cutlass S. Hoses were shot, and I can't 
afford the 35 bucks a can for freon, so I decided that having driven the car 
for 5 years without a/c, that I'd jerk it to save weight. Now mind you, this 
is in Dallas, TX home of the 100 degree summers <grins>. Actually, the worst 
part about that whole experience is the new heater core I put in it, and 
then couldn't get the dang thing to shut off! This was last year during the 
32 days of 100 degree weather. Burnt me feets a few times <chuckles>. 
Anyway, The a/c system is complete except for the part that is somewhat 
tarred to the firewall and the chopped up hoses. The a/c cooler fins are in 
awesome shape, and the big a/c motor spins freely, with some reisitance 
(which I think is normal). I'm plenty willing to unload it, as I think a/c 
is worthless, and I rarely use it in my 96 Monte Carlo either. I'd much 
rather have the windows down. I've also got a QJ that's been rebuilt a few 
times, with a new base that I can part with. This is off the 350 Rocket 
motor from '70. Heck, I still have the original AM radio with the speakers 
<grins> Lemme know if ya need part numbers and whatnot for that stuff and 
I'll dig around in the garage and get 'em for ya.

Steve
'70 Cutlass S Hardtop 350R(original) with TH350 and very beefy 10 bolt.
'96 Monte Carlo stock
- ---------
Dear Lucky Olds Owners,

I've been dragging my poor family up hill and down dale the last four
months looking at 68-72 Cutlass & 442 converts. I'm looking for something
around $10K or less, but seem to find lots of pretty rough "projects" that
often have all the power options I'd like, or I find non-A/C, optionless
cars that otherwise are very nice.

My question is, is it really more trouble than it's worth to try to
retrofit A/C to a non-A/C car? Seems like changing most anything else, be
it disk brakes, engines, trannies, etc., is not that big a deal.
Unfortunately, it's hot and humid enough in southeastern Virginia that
having A/C can really be a blessing, particularly for us overweight old
farts who, by local ordinance, must remain fully clothed at all times.

Should I happen to fall in love with a non A/C car and want to add A/C
later, would you try to go factory, or go with an aftermarket package, like
Vintage Air's? (I'm looking for a less-than-perfect driver that shouldn't
make Ransom Eli roll over if modified.) I've even thought of buying a
rusted-out sedan with A/C just to get all the necessary bits, but I haven't
had the nerve to confess these unholy thoughts to my sainted wife.

Thanks in advance for your comments.

John Livingston
Oldless in Newport News, VA

PS Wasn't there a list member recently who wanted to take the air out of
his Cutlass? I wonder if he can cook.




_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 17:22:26 -0700
From: "Peter Berusch" <berusch@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: How much of a bear is adding A/C? re: Vintage Air

  I just did a Vintage Air in a '57 T-Bird.  Everything went together in a
straight forward manner.  The wiring was extra simple, there were no vac
lines to run.  The in-car unit hung under dash and contained thermostat,
blower switch, and evaporator.  The condenser bolted on in front of the
radiator.  The only creative aspect of the install was lining up the drive
belt pulley.  The compressor was a Jap Sanden unit.  Small and efficient.
Sucked it down, blew it up and turned it on.  The air blew cold and eveyone
smiled.  Peter.





>Chris,
>
>>What is Vintage Air?
>>
>These guys are big in the hot rod air conditioning market. They also do
>systems for vintage automobiles, too. Seem to have a pretty decent rep.
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 17:26:30 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Need carb rebuild hints

J&T wrote:

> I'm going to attempt a rebuild on my carb, 70 quadrajet. If anyone has
> any helpful hints on what to do or not to do, I would greatly appreciate
> it.
>                                                  Thanks,
>                                                     Joe

 Pay particular attention to the PCV inlet.  Although it is a healthy 3/8
inch diameter tube, it can accumulate deposits which taper in until the
inlet is nearly blocked further in the carb.  After 30 years, these deposits
can be quite stubborn and can remain even after a soaking in carb cleaner.
Ensure this inlet is clear or you'll have symptoms of a bad PCV valve.  Been
there, dealt with that with a '71 Q-Jet.

I also found a neat way to blow passages clear after a soaking.  I use a
basketball air pump with the small, plastic, conical tip (not the needle
tip).  You can force air through small passageways quite well.

When removing the airhorn.  I found it easier to just remove the choke
pull-off and bracket and disconnect the rod from the secondary linkage with
the air horn still on the carb.  This is easier than trying to tilt the air
horn to free the rod, as is shown in some books.  Also, the small brass
tubes on the underside of the air horn are easily broken off.  Be careful,
there.  Also, I usually remove the secondary hanger with its rods before I
even try to pull the air horn off.

There is no compelling need, given a just routine rebuild, to remove the
throttle plates, choke plate, or air valve from their shafts.  This
especially applies to the throttle plates.  However, depending on the carb
cleaner, you may want to remove the air valve.  The nylon cam on the air
valve shaft may be ruined by some harsher carb cleaners.  That is why I use
the newer, environmentally friendlier carb cleaners.  They take longer to
work, but they are easier on some plastics.  If the air horn isn't too
cruddy, I can dip it without worrying about the nylon cam.  If the main body
is pretty bad, you may want to use the harsher cleaners there.  Once
disassembled, it has no plastic parts.

Remember, the carb air horn and main body casting are zinc, which is
relatively soft.  They are easily damaged.  This applies to the aluminum
throttle body, too.

Aside from that, allow yourself plenty of time, room, and light.  Organize
the parts you remove so you know how to replace them.  Make a carb stand.
It really helps.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/dual exhaust/
        sometimes Q-Jet, sometimes Holley/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 18:03:12 -0400 (EDT)
From: dsenko@UU.NET (Drew Senko)
Subject: Olds VIN decoder updated!

Today I updated my Olds VIN Decoder with information that was provided
by David Brown.  I would like to extend my thanks and appreciation to
David for the info that he copied and sent to me.

The new information that was added today covers the years
1976 through 1985, which means that the VIN Decoder is now covering
the years 1963 through 1985 completely.

To see the Olds VIN Decoder, go to the webpage at:

http://members.aol.com/drewinva/vin

Have a great weekend!

 --                    ______________                     _
Drew Senko            / Convertibles \                    |\
dsenko@uu.net         \_____Rule!____/     .__====-_._____|_\______
Vienna, VA, USA                     O      [   ___  |-     |  ___  \
http://members.aol.com/drewinva       o o  =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)
_______________________________________________\_/____________\_/_____

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 19:01:31 -0400
From: "M. Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Rally

There's a picture of one on my web page taken at the Centennial. It belongs
to the President of the Rally 350 chapter of OCA.
Just follow the Lansing icon.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie, Melbourne, FL
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/~mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Edward Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
To: Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 9:17 PM
Subject: Rally


> I need a picture of a Rally 350 in original trim and graphics, you know
with
> the color matching bumpers and all. Can anyone help?
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 17:51:46 -0600
From: "Ed Linehan" <ed@techniflite.com>
Subject: Re: emission decal

OK, OK, OK, OK, K, K, K, K,  (slipped into bad Joe Pesci impression)  I
don't understand.  The sticker I have has W-30, 1970, and SG code.  Is there
such an animal available for replacement.  As far as I can tell, it should
not have this code because it doesn't exist.?????  Also,  you listers with
70' and I guess 71' W-30's, does your firewall stamp look like a T T or more
like I I ?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 19:57:08 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: New items: posi carr, decklid

Additional RS items available 5/21/99:
Late pattern MT flywheel, needs resurface.
1111450-7G19 distributor 1967? application?
1978 or 79 H/O posi carrier with ring gear from 40:13
  takes axles about 1.125" OD, ~28 splines, ~1.030" root dia.
.
   7.5-7.6" OD ring gear, $offer.
1957 88 decklid, G. cond., $offer.

- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 18:59:41 -0500
From: "Stephen A. Hoover" <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: emission decal

I haven't been following this thread, but just wanted to throw what I
know about codes out here.

The SG code is the correct code for the 1972 W-30 
I am not sure what year car you have..but this code is only valid for
1972.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme


Ed Linehan wrote:
> 
> OK, OK, OK, OK, K, K, K, K,  (slipped into bad Joe Pesci impression)  I
> don't understand.  The sticker I have has W-30, 1970, and SG code.  Is there
> such an animal available for replacement.  As far as I can tell, it should
> not have this code because it doesn't exist.?????  Also,  you listers with
> 70' and I guess 71' W-30's, does your firewall stamp look like a T T or more
> like I I ?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 20:05:13 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!

>I have about 500 miles on my 455. It has Childs & ALberts zero gap rings in
>it. I have used 20W-50 Castrol GTX since it was new. Would i be OK to go to
>synthetic or should I play it safe and put another 500 miles on the motor
>with conventional oil to make sure the rings have seated?


Why change at all? GTX 20W-50 helped me put 190,000 miles on a V-6 Olds, and
25 years on my Limey 'scooter with no problems. Damned if I'll use anything
else.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 20:10:19 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: window cleaner

>After reading all of the wax comments, it made me think of cleaning car
>windows. What can I use to clean the containment's off of glass.

Ummm.....Windex?

Only thing standard window cleaners don't do well is road tar and pidgeon
poop. Once in a while I'll wipe the windshield down with laquer thinner.

I hear that Rain-X is great stuff afterward...gotta try some.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 18:28:15 -0600
From: "Ed Linehan" <ed@techniflite.com>
Subject: Re: emission decal

That is my dilemma  My sticker says it's for a 1970 W-30.  Even says "this
label used with engine code TT"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 20:34:37 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: 350 rocket defined

Chris Brown Witt wrote:
> 
> 
> In seriousness, the term "Rocket" was used over many years, starting in
> 1949, on many motors. The '73 350 carried a "Rocket 350" AC Label, but can
> hardly
> be compared to even the lowliest of the '67 330 motors with their 9:1
> compression.

HEY! I resent that remark!!! I know that my 73 350 will be able to stomp
on a few Chevys when I break her out! Of course, it's not bone stock
anymore. :-) It has 70 heads, crank, and a little itty bitty help from
Comp Cams.... :-)

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
*************************
http://drive.to/73cutlass
- -----------------------
'73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
'70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
'75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
*************************

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 20:34:41 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: WE NEED AN OLDS BIG BODY CLUB

I hear ya. The bigger and badder the better.
Oldsmo-Yaghts?
Large Barges?
Big, Bad, and Beautiful?

drc
Delta 88

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 21:09:22 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Quincy's Pending Compleation.

Hello family;

Long awaited, The time has arrived to install Quincy's new heart. Just
today, orders from Jeg's and Summit arrived. It's Christmas in May. I
received the B&M HoleShot 2,400 Stall Converter, The Holly 750 cfm double
pumper carb, and B&M Star Shifter and a slew of other items. From electric
fuel pump to electronic ignition, to custom carpeting, all the products for
conversion/installation are good to go. The list of which is to long to
list. I have received my bucket seats ready to install. I mentioned
yesterday, the Digital dash is in hand. Also today a local transmission shop
completed rebuilding the Th400 including a Superior performance shift kit.

The 455 is out of the '69 Cutlass and at the shop. Quincy's drive line swap
and interior customization will start on Monday. Hopefully by next Friday
night I'll be tooling around in a some what finished Quincy. Nearly 2 full
years from when the project started. And right on schedule as planned.

By mid June all the bugs will be worked out and all the finishing touches
will have been lovingly applied. I will then set out heading south to the
June 13th Jack Merkel Performance in Clark, NJ. Than on to MI for the Olds
Home Coming on the 19th.

Can anyone supply me with dates for shows down in the Carolina's. Richmond
and Charlotte areas. Also when is the Olds National in Texas? I'm interested
in hearing (privately preferably) in all medium to large shows in the
Eastern half of the US. Please send me dates and times and a brief
description of the event. From major shows to track related events. I need
to schedule out my next 3 or so months as I take Quincy on the road. His
time is about at hand to shine  at as many shows as I can get to. No trailer
Queen here. I'll drive him to every and all events I can reasonably get to.
Hopefully Quincy and I will get to meet many of you along the way. Heck, if
you got a cot, shower, and a home cooked meal, We'll stop over a night. Sure
would beat the local Days In and Burger King. Thanks for listening all.
;-)       Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

- -------------------------------------------------------------------
Like FREE Money? Just go to
http://alladvantage.com/go.asp?refid=AQE115
Members are paid for their own Web browsing
($.50 per Hour) and for referrals. Please tell all
of your friends about this program as possible.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 21:22:07 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Phenomenal Phind

In a message dated 99-05-21 06:52:41 EDT, you write:

<< Man some of you guys must be on crack :)   Butch
 
 Chris Brown Witt wrote: >>

Karl saw the doorless "shortie" '57.
Do not recall any black, just green.
Got a polaroid of it somewhere .....

A body capable of that is capable of hoarding misc Oldsmobilia for no reason.

Hope CBW will introduce me in approx. 30 days.....

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 21:35:30 -0400
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Quincy's Pending Compleation.

Kick ass Gary,
I'll see you at Englishtown come nid_june when it's done!


Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 3.8 Calais
Bucks County, PA
mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 21:43:35 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Carbs again...

In a message dated 99-05-21 13:22:39 EDT, you write:

<< I noticed that some of you were saying that the carbs that came on 442's 
were better than those on regular ol' 455's.  Is that really true?  What's 
the difference?  Because I have a good carb off a '68 442, and the carb that 
came stock on my '69 98 455 motor.  Would the '68 442 carb give me better 
performance than the '69 98 455 carb? >>

Really?

Karl musta missed something.

The factory carburetors with specific application # were set up to complement 
the engine/car combination that matched the application #.

That's all.

Mebbe rochester played aroud with the parts, such as no rods or power piston 
in some models in 1970 Oldsmobiles, or excessive spring play on Pontiac.

But, in general, these carbs were set up to compliment their application.

To be specific, a 1969 455 (all normal) used "49" rods with "70" jets.

Not found in 1969 or 1968 4 4 2 carbs.

So, answer is: go fish.

Sorry.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 21:45:51 EDT
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: My New Clutch

	I had my new clutch put in. To make a long story short, there was a 
10.4 clutch in my w-31, and I replaced it with the centerforce II disc and 
pressure plate. Man, what a difference! The old clutch disc had a fractured 
spring that got in and destroyed the pilot bearing which was a real pain to 
get out. I had the flywheel resurfaced. Shifts like a dream. Just thought I 
would share that. Thanks to all who responded on the size.
Jim McKeague
1970 Rallye 350
1970 Cutlass S W-31

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 21:53:17 EDT
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Rallye 350 Update

	I would like to share with everyone my progress on my Rallye 350 
resto. Many of you have been a tremendous help to me as I have slowly put 
this thing back together. I am 99.9% done, and feel real proud about it. The 
fenders and the doors were really difficult to put on. They are almost 
prefect, but not quite. I still need to fool around with the shims. I still 
need to seal the front and rear windshields, and put the roofrail 
weather-stripping on. I wet sanded and buffed out the paint, was scared to do 
it at first, but after I started getting into it, I could see it was going to 
look a lot better! I took it around the block yesterday for the first time in 
two years, and nothing fell off so that's a good sign. Thanks again for all 
your help! I am still looking for a rally-pac, if anyone has one, please 
e-mail me privately!
Jim McKeague
1970 Rallye 350
1970 Cutlass S W-31

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 22:06:31 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Um, spontaneous Rocket Talk?

We know, you lads and alasses have otherwise to perpetrate on such evenings.

But if you read this now, you are pathetic enough to participate.

http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner

Just a thought.

k

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 22:28:05 EDT
From: LPBuilder@aol.com
Subject: Bumper question

	Has anyone used the guy who advertises on 442.com for bumpers by the 
name of desertdog auto parts. The price looks great for what he says they are.
3 year quarantee sounds good. I'm looking for a good piece no Bumper boy
junk. Peeling chrome does nothing for me. If some one can let me know I'd 
greatly
appreciate it.

Thank You
Drew A. Sonnentag
70 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 22:49:42 -0400
From: "John Pajak" <jspajak@us.hsanet.net>
Subject: Re: Um, spontaneous Rocket Talk?

Sounds good to me...

John

- -----Original Message-----
From: KarlAunan@aol.com <KarlAunan@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Friday, May 21, 1999 10:56 PM
Subject: Um, spontaneous Rocket Talk?


>
>We know, you lads and alasses have otherwise to perpetrate on such
evenings.
>
>But if you read this now, you are pathetic enough to participate.
>
>http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner
>
>Just a thought.
>
>k
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 00:45:22 EDT
From: Ctls350rkt@aol.com
Subject: Help needed to stop pinging!

Hello all, I'm having a slight problem on my 77 Cutlass Supreme.  I bought it 
about a month ago so i'm still learning the car.  This car has 157,000 miles 
on it and still has every original gasket.  That's a perfect example to 
Oldsmobile quality.
Engine is running great, but a slight problem.  When i got the car the timing 
and idle was way off, so i reset it to what the emissions label said.  Well i 
had a bit of pinging before, but now on 87 i could barely touch the gas and 
it would ping.  With 89 i could open the throttle till the secondaries 
opened, then pinging.  Now i have to keep 93 in there all the time to keep it 
from pinging.  I don't mind spending the money on the premium, but isn't it a 
waste of money to put in 93 if the car isn't made for it?  
I'm going to keep premium in it till it stops pinging with 87, unless it's 
designed to run on 93.  I'd rather spend the extra 20 cents per gallon now 
than the time and money on a rebuild later.
I've put on new plugs, wires, dis. cap and rotor, checked the egr, pcv, all 
vacuum likes, and like triple checked the timing to make sure that it's at 20 
degrees BTDC at 1100 RPM.  The only things left i can think of is; carb needs 
to be rebuilt, carbon build up, or jumped timing chain.  Any other thoughts?
Sorry the e-mail's so long, just concerned about my new baby.  Don't want to 
damage her so soon.  Hope to hear from ya'll Oldsmobile Pros.  TIA

- -Jon

"Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis ad capul tuum saxum immane 
mittam. (Translation: I have a catapult. Give me all the money or I will 
fling an enormous rock at your head.)"
"What did the fish say when he hit a concrete wall?  "Dam!"

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 22:46:28 PDT
From: "Ioannis Kouramanis" <kourama@hotmail.com>
Subject: '72 Delta 88 Royale Conv. resto question..

Hi,

My car just arrived from California Tuesday, and I've
already started getting into the nooks and crannies.

There's a long & painful story to how I got my car, but
the summary is: flew from Eastern Canada to LA to drive
the car home, the engine blew up, ended up shipping it
home, spent 8500 for a 2500 car. Oh well, live and learn.

'sides that, I'm really happy and anxious to get the car
on the road.

First, I heard from the local bookstore that the standard
catalogue for olds is out of print. Can anyone verify this?
I bought the ford & chevy standard catalogues, if anyone
wants to trade?

Next, I will send out the engine for a rebuild. Now there
are two kinds of rebuild, the regular, and the race. For the
race rebuild the only difference (assuming both use high-quality
parts) is the balancing they do for the race-rebuild. I just
want to return the car to the condition it was in when it left
the factory, but if I get the race rebuild, it seems that the
better balanced crank will reduce wear on the bearings.
Any opinions on this?

Thanks everyone, and happy 2-4 weekend to all the Canucks!


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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1972
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