


oldsmobile-digest       Wednesday, May 12 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1953



CASTING CALL
Re: Engine ID:still looking
Re: Engine ID:still looking
66 L-69 block
Re: Exhaust manifold ID Help
Re: Voltage Woes
Re: 66 L-69 block
Re: Delta 88 Vs. Camaro
Re: Delta 88 Vs. Camaro
Re: MOPAR blues (TIMING, please HELP)
Re: MOPAR blues (TIMING, please HELP) with Olds Content
Re: helloooo & ramblings
Ignition switch desparation
Re: Ignition switch desparation
Re: Ignition switch desparation
UNBOUNCE: 74 Olds 98 for sale
UNBOUNCE: '59 Olds Value
64 OLDS
Re: Engine ID:still looking
how much is shipping for bumper?
Re: Engine id location
RE: Seat covers
Brake Dust
Re: Brake Dust
Rumble
Re: Rumble
Re: Rumble
Re: MOPAR blues (TIMING, please HELP) with Olds Content
Re: Rumble
Re: Engine ID:still looking
Re: Ignition switch desparation
Re: ~Casting Call~
Re: MOPAR blues (TIMING, please HELP)
Re: Rumble
Re: Engine ID:still looking
Great Midwestern Caravan of 1999.
Re: helloooo & ramblings
Re: Rumble
Score 2
Re: Score 2
Re: Score 2
Re: Engine ID:still looking
Re: Engine ID:still looking
1976 Olds
Re: Engine ID:still looking
Re: MOPAR blues (TIMING, please HELP)
Re: (reverb unit)
Re: Great Midwestern Caravan of 1999.
Re: Reverb

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 23:25:04 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: CASTING CALL

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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I still hvae the 72 cutlass parts car.  It will be gone next week.  =
So... If you need any small parts now is the time to ask.
    I have a motor casting question.  The motor out of the cutlass,  I =
am told,  is a 350 rocket.  The casting number is 395558-2.  What the =
heck does the '2' mean?????????  The motor is huge.  I thought it was a =
big block!
ps its a heavy bastard too!

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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I still hvae the 72 cutlass parts car.&nbsp; It will =
be gone=20
next week.&nbsp; So... If you need any small parts now is the time to=20
ask.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; I have a motor casting =
question.&nbsp; The=20
motor out of the cutlass,&nbsp; I am told,&nbsp; is a 350 rocket.&nbsp; =
The=20
casting number is 395558-2.&nbsp; What the heck does the '2' =
mean?????????&nbsp;=20
The motor is huge.&nbsp; I thought it was a big block!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>ps its a heavy bastard =
too!</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 23:38:59 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Engine ID:still looking

You may have to remove the alternator bracket.  You will not see it under
the car.  There is a flat spot that the number is stamped on.  The flat area
is part of the block not the head.  You will also need to clean the area to
see the number.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Mark <greenmm@earthlink.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 11:26 PM
Subject: Engine ID:still looking


> Yes, the alternator bracket is in that area.  I cannot find the VIN #.
> Would it be easier to find by looking under the car since the bracket is
> there?
>
> The only thing around the #1 spark plug is a "J" to the left on the very
> front of the engine.  What is that for?
>
> Any other help?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:
> >
> > "If you're searching for an Olds 455, here are the casting numbers to
> > look for :396021F ('68-71); 396021Fa ('72-'76); and 231788L (service
> > replacement)."
> >
> >   My question is, is that correct?  I just found my ID and it is
> > 396021F, no apparent 'a' is there.  Could it have rusted out?  I own a
> > '75 Olds Dela 88.
> >
> >   Also, where can I find the 9-digit code that should match my VIN?
> > __________
> >
> > That's correct to the best of my knowledge.  The "A" is smaller than the
other
> > letters, so be sure all the crud is scraped away.  The 9 digit "VIN
derivative"
> > number is stamped on a machined pad located on the driver's side of the
block,
> > below the number one exhaust port on the head.  The pad is right at the
top of
> > the block, just below the cylinder head, and may be obstructed by the PS
bracket
> > or the alternator bracket if you have A/C.  Find the No. 1 spark plug,
then look
> > down the side of the block below that area.  Again, it may be covered
with
> > spooge and require scraping to see.
> >
> > The VIN derivative will have the format of 35Mxxxxxx where:
> >
> > 3 = Oldsmobile division
> > 5 = year (5 = 1975, 2 = 1972, 9 = 1969)  Note that a number other than 5
would
> > indicate a replacement motor
> > M = manufacturing plant (M = Lansing, X = Kansas City, etc)
> > xxxxxx = last six digits of VIN.  Again, if this doesn't match the last
six
> > digits of your car's VIN, it's a replacement motor.
> >
> > Joe Padavano
> > padavano.joe@orbital.com
> >
> > 66 442
> > 68 W-30
> > 69 H/O
> > 69 442
> > 70 W-30
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 23:35:05 -0400
From: "W-MACHINES" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: Re: Engine ID:still looking

Try using a mirror and reading backwards!

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com
Centennial Feature at http://www.en.com/users/wmachine/wm.html
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 - Sold ;(
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: Mark <greenmm@earthlink.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Engine ID:still looking
> Date: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 11:26 PM
>
> Yes, the alternator bracket is in that area.  I cannot find the VIN #.
> Would it be easier to find by looking under the car since the bracket is
> there?
>
> The only thing around the #1 spark plug is a "J" to the left on the very
> front of the engine.  What is that for?
>
> Any other help?
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:
> >
> > "If you're searching for an Olds 455, here are the casting numbers to
> > look for :396021F ('68-71); 396021Fa ('72-'76); and 231788L (service
> > replacement)."
> >
> >   My question is, is that correct?  I just found my ID and it is
> > 396021F, no apparent 'a' is there.  Could it have rusted out?  I own a
> > '75 Olds Dela 88.
> >
> >   Also, where can I find the 9-digit code that should match my VIN?
> > __________
> >
> > That's correct to the best of my knowledge.  The "A" is smaller than
the other
> > letters, so be sure all the crud is scraped away.  The 9 digit "VIN
derivative"
> > number is stamped on a machined pad located on the driver's side of the
block,
> > below the number one exhaust port on the head.  The pad is right at the
top of
> > the block, just below the cylinder head, and may be obstructed by the
PS bracket
> > or the alternator bracket if you have A/C.  Find the No. 1 spark plug,
then look
> > down the side of the block below that area.  Again, it may be covered
with
> > spooge and require scraping to see.
> >
> > The VIN derivative will have the format of 35Mxxxxxx where:
> >
> > 3 = Oldsmobile division
> > 5 = year (5 = 1975, 2 = 1972, 9 = 1969)  Note that a number other than
5 would
> > indicate a replacement motor
> > M = manufacturing plant (M = Lansing, X = Kansas City, etc)
> > xxxxxx = last six digits of VIN.  Again, if this doesn't match the last
six
> > digits of your car's VIN, it's a replacement motor.
> >
> > Joe Padavano
> > padavano.joe@orbital.com
> >
> > 66 442
> > 68 W-30
> > 69 H/O
> > 69 442
> > 70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 23:58:45 EDT
From: BvilleStew@aol.com
Subject: 66 L-69 block

I still have a 66 L-69 block left from my old 66 442. Heads were used on one
of my old drag cars. Intake has been gone for a long time. (Wish I still had
both items now!) Crank is also gone. Still have the connecting rod and piston
assemblies. I rebuilt it once  (long, long ago) and I believe it was .030
over. If I remember correctly the engine ID was on the cylinder head. The
block is still at my parents house. I will look again and see if the block
has any markings. I purchased the L-69 (Holiday Coupe) used in 1971 and have
had the block since then. I took it in 1974 out and installed a 455 and drag
raced it for a few years.

    Is there anyone that has a need for this item??

  Mike
85 Salon (waiting for it's 455 transplant)

X-OWNER
69 442
68 H/O (still trying to locate)
67 98 LS
66 L-69

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 00:10:26 -0400
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold ID Help

James

        It is a fairly common piece used on all 65-68 442's. It is not the high
flow 'W' manifold used from 69-72. The match for it is either a RH "W" casting
used from 65-67, or a "Y" casting used in 68 only.


Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts

At 08:49 PM 5/11/1999 , you wrote:
>I just got a manifold and not sure what the application is. It is for the LH
>side and the part # is 412287, it also has an X on it. Thanks for any help!
>James

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 23:29:56 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Voltage Woes

>The 15.4 volts is not a steady 15.4 volts, but a quick second jump to that
>reading. Then it will go back to the 14 volt range. EIther way, 15.4 volts
>is not harmful, is it?
>
>I heard MAD Enterprises makes a kit that will change from external to
>internal coltage regulators. IT goes for $25.00. Is it worth the $$ to
>change it? I would also have to get a different alternator...
>
>Pettrix@prodigy.net

15.4 is getting into the range where you could possibly do damage to
your battery, IF it is constant.  Since 15.4 is not what the nominal reading
is, I wouldn't worry about it.  For the conversion to an internal regulator,
I
remember seeing a website that listed the steps for the conversion
process.  It basically boils down to jumping your original voltage regulator
connector.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 00:32:26 EDT
From: BvilleStew@aol.com
Subject: Re: 66 L-69 block

   I live in Minnesota. I'm do not know the asking price at this time. I
never thought about selling it but my parents want it to find  new home. I
have 6 other unassembled engines at my house and no room for more. What do
you think?
   Mike

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 00:57:28 -0400
From: "Jason Labay" <jlabay@tdin.com>
Subject: Re: Delta 88 Vs. Camaro

Only hope I see for your poor chevy friend is if you guys race on a road
course. :-) There his f-body will win easily due to the superior handling
stock for stock.

Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio
94 Caprice LT1 4400lbs 14.63 @ 93.17
88 GTA  LS1 / 4L60E
80 Olds 442 W-30


- -----Original Message-----
From: Igor Todorovic <igor455@home.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 10:54 PM
Subject: Re: Delta 88 Vs. Camaro


>
>You need to do a 45 mph kick down race.
>> Both cars get to 45 mph and mash it to the floor!  He who accelerates
>> fastest wins.
>
>We did that and the same thing happend.  I kicked his but.  We both punch
it
>and you see the Delta go 1 car length in one second and then by 100 MPH
>about three to four car lenghts.  We quit at 100 MPH.  The top speed on my
>car is about 120 MPH (redline limited, I back off then).  If (or should I
>say when) I put my 2.41 gears back in the Delta then he will have no hope
at
>45 MPH +.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 00:24:06 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Delta 88 Vs. Camaro

> Only hope I see for your poor chevy friend is if you guys race on a road
> course. :-) There his f-body will win easily due to the superior handling
> stock for stock.

Agreed, only my car is no longer stock even in that department and it does
very well.  Feels much more soild on the road but the Camaro can take
tighter turns.  Also, don't forget that the same day we raced, he got some
nice V rated tires that he paid big bucks for.  I am running only Radial
T/As.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 05:39:56 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: MOPAR blues (TIMING, please HELP)

>I know, I know it is not an Olds.  But I have a serious problem
>with my '81 Mopar van.  The timing seems to be out 100,000
>degrees.  There is no sticker or anything under the hood or anywhere so I
>have no idea what to set it to. PLEASE Help.  It
>does not have to run great just not detonate and stall.
>What should I set it to and at what RPM.  Thanks a lot.

How about starting with something like 12 BTDC @800? Just guessing here, but
if it's detonating and stalling after you've got a ballpark setting like
that in place, maybe something else is wrong. Stuck distributor advance
weights? (If the '81 had anything like that...) Mixed up firing order on the
plug wires? Stuck carburetor float?

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 08:51:30 -0400
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: MOPAR blues (TIMING, please HELP) with Olds Content

Front wheel drive: Um . . . when was the last time it saw a new timing belt?

Rear wheel drive: Um . . . when was the last time it saw a new timing chain?

I'm assuming that you don't know why the timing is off so badly. If I'm
making a wrong assumption then I agree: start at 12 BTDC @800

Is it rear wheel drive or front (Ram Van or Caravan)?

>thinking, thinking, thinking . . . was there such an animal as a Caravan in
1981? . . . hmmmmmm<

What engine?

Olds Content: anyone need a nice set of air shocks for their Cutlass? How
about a factory class 3 hitch? MSD Soft touch rev control (WILL work without
MSD ignition)?

- -----Original Message-----

>>I know, I know it is not an Olds.  But I have a serious problem
>>with my '81 Mopar van.  The timing seems to be out 100,000
>>degrees.  There is no sticker or anything under the hood or anywhere so I
>>have no idea what to set it to. PLEASE Help.  It
>>does not have to run great just not detonate and stall.
>>What should I set it to and at what RPM.  Thanks a lot.
>
>How about starting with something like 12 BTDC @800? Just guessing here,
but
>if it's detonating and stalling after you've got a ballpark setting like
>that in place, maybe something else is wrong. Stuck distributor advance
>weights? (If the '81 had anything like that...) Mixed up firing order on
the
>plug wires? Stuck carburetor float?
>
>-- Andy
>
>
>_______________________________________________________________
>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 05:59:33 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: helloooo & ramblings

So, "I know I was doing 130 Officer, but I didn't see
any sign!" probably wouldn't work then? ;-)

- --- steve harris <meso@pamlico.net> wrote:
> Be forewarned the law is "any prudent speed under
> 85mph"
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 10:00 AM
> Subject: Re: helloooo & ramblings
>
>
> >
> > Rock Man wrote:
> > >
> > > <snip>
> > > Head on
> > > over to Montana for some fun though! No speed
> limits
> > > there. :-)
> >
> > Hurry, they have voted for speed limits (75 MPH I
> believe) on the roads
> that
> > used to be "Whatever speed is prudent."  They may
> even have implemented
> them
> > already.  This reminds me of a question posted on
> another newsgroup where
> the
> > person asked "A guy I know was doing 40 MPH around
> a corner marked max. 40
> MPH
> > and he tipped his truck over, do you think he was
> going too fast?"  Duh,
> by
> > definition if you roll your truck you were doing
> too fast.  A well set up
> Olds
> > could zip through at twice the posted limit while
> a truck carrying
> swinging
> > beef could flip at almost half.  A guy in Montana
> got caught speeding
> twice and
> > although he was a professional race car driver in
> a ZR-1 Corvette he was
> still
> > convicted even though he was only doing 120 mph.
> >
> > And on the same (earlier) topic, I read somewhere
> that the safest speed
> was the
> > 80% percentile mark of the general traffic flow.
> Therefore, you should be
> > passing 8 out of 10 cars and letting 2 out of 10
> cars pass you.  Something
> like
> > that.
> >
> > Of course if you can't do division in your head
> and count cars and drive
> at the
> > same time this would not help you :))
> > --
> >
> > Cliff "Can't listen to the radio and drive at the
> same time" Simpson
> > mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
> > '69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
> >
>
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html
> >
>
>

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 09:16:44 EDT
From: "Scott Baughman" <wsbjr1@hotmail.com>
Subject: Ignition switch desparation

To all - hopefully someone can help.  I have a 1970 Cutlass supreme and
cannot for the life of me figure out how to remove the ignition lock switch.
  I have removed the wheel, the plate, and the turnsignal switch.  The
service manual for the car says to insert a screw driver into the slot and
pull out the ignition switch - well there is no slot.  Any suggestions would
be GREATLY appreciated.

thanks,
WB


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 08:36:40 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Ignition switch desparation

very zimple very ec the "slot " that is referred to in the manual is almost
always covered over with flash(thin metal scrap) it is a strange shaped area
just under the lock cylinder just punch it through and then push the button
and Voila der ju go
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Baughman <wsbjr1@hotmail.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 8:16 AM
Subject: Ignition switch desparation


> To all - hopefully someone can help.  I have a 1970 Cutlass supreme and
> cannot for the life of me figure out how to remove the ignition lock
switch.
>   I have removed the wheel, the plate, and the turnsignal switch.  The
> service manual for the car says to insert a screw driver into the slot and
> pull out the ignition switch - well there is no slot.  Any suggestions
would
> be GREATLY appreciated.
>
> thanks,
> WB
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 09:49:22 EDT
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Ignition switch desparation

In a message dated 5/12/99 9:18:29 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
wsbjr1@hotmail.com writes:

<< To all - hopefully someone can help.  I have a 1970 Cutlass supreme and
cannot for the life of me figure out how to remove the ignition lock switch.
   I have removed the wheel, the plate, and the turnsignal switch.  The
service manual for the car says to insert a screw driver into the slot and
pull out the ignition switch - well there is no slot.  Any suggestions would
be GREATLY appreciated.
  >>
i did one of these just last week,  the piece were the lock fits into is pot
metal , and some of them have the slot as you called it  clear and easy to
see.  some of the ruffer castings still have the slot ,but not all the way
through. you can take a ice pick , small screw driver, or something else with
a thin narrow blade and punch out the base of that slot . once done you can
depress the pin down inside the slot and the lock should slide right out.
the slot it self is behind the turn signal  switch.  there are three screws
that hold the turn switch in. the one at the top and slightly off center to
the right is the one you want to look for. just to the left of it is were the
slot should be.   hope this helps.  steven, w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 11:05:55 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 74 Olds 98 for sale

Not on the list; respond to cessna180x@earthlink.net

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Grant Wilson <cessna180x@earthlink.net>
Subject: 74 Olds 98 for sale

I have a  fully loaded 74 Olds 98 four door hardtop with only 74,500
miles on it. All the sheet metal and trim are straight. Slight rust
bleed through in paint. Needs some work, but has show car potential.
Tires are great. I'm asking $1275. The car is in Long Beach CA. Call me
at 562 598 7167 or e-mail me at cessna180x@earthlink.net.

Grant Wilson

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 11:07:50 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '59 Olds Value

Not on the list; respond to Jwsherma@aol.com

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Jwsherma@aol.com
Subject: need some h*lp...

I am looking at a 1959 Olds 98 Holiday Sports Sedan (4-door hardtop.)  It has
47,000 original miles, and has had one repaint in the original color.  It has
new brakes and a new fuel pump; the car has had 4 owners, all local.  The
engine has never been opened; the interior is original and shows normal wear.
The glass is good, except for a small crack in the passenger side window.
There are no signs of rust that I can see; the car has been well-cared for,
but is far from perfect.  All the chrome is there, but only the bumpers have
been re-done; the rest could use some restoration.  The owner is asking
$5,000 for the car.  He says it was appraised a year ago at $6,000.  My
information says a #3 car like this should be worth around $3625.  My
questions...what should I look for specifically when I drive this car?  Where
should I look for signs of rust in the floors, trunk, etc.?  I am a car buff,
but need some expert Olds advice, here...I'm thinking $4500 would be a fair
offer, but I would like some specific pointers on this particular model if I
can get them...any help would be appreciated.  Contact me at
jwsherma@aol.com.  Thanks!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 08:20:30 -0600
From: "ED" <wpi@wpibba.com>
Subject: 64 OLDS

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Could you direct me to the proper forum where I can list my 64 olds for =
sale?  I can't find a classified board.
Thanks
Ed

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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D4>Could you direct me to the =
proper forum=20
where I can list my 64 olds for sale?&nbsp; I can't find a classified=20
board.</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D4>Thanks</FONT></STRONG></DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=3D#000000 =
size=3D4>Ed</FONT></STRONG></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_002F_01BE9C50.4DC00860--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 10:51:34 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine ID:still looking

In a message dated 05/11/1999 11:35:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
meso@pamlico.net writes:

<< You may have to remove the alternator bracket.  You will not see it under
the car.  There is a flat spot that the number is stamped on.  The flat area
is part of the block not the head.  You will also need to clean the area to
see the number. >>

Do you need a mirror to see the number?

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 09:37:14 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: how much is shipping for bumper?

Hi Guys,

I am looking for a nice 68 rear bumper. No show but presentable very good
condition. No cut outs necessary. (Greg B., what did you do with your old
one?).

Well, I am still looking for offers but in the process I am wondering how
much is shipping (estimate figure) for a big bumper like the 68 rear???

Regards, George

- ---------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
- ---------------------

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 09:45:10 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Engine id location

I did not follow the engine id thread. Here is one of my old messages
which may help to locate the number. Please excuse me if there is
anything mentioned in there that has already been said. Good Luck and
keep lookin... George


You can find the number on the left side of the block directly behind the
alternator/power steering brackets under the head. It is stamped in a
flat surface you can see if you bend in from the right fender side. The
surface is about 1" wide and 1/2 high.

    ___________
    |__head___|
  | |*        |
  --|         |
  | |_________|

This is a view of the right (drivers) side of the engine. The * indicates
the position of the number. The nubers are about 16-18 pt. if I may use
text processing units... It is not easy to see but you will find it if
you keep looking around that area.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 08:14:03 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Seat covers

<snip>
> Ok, your set.  Toss your seat covers in the dryer at
> low heat or leave them
> outside in the sun.  You need them soft, supple, and
> able to stretch.  Get a
> few trash bags or plastic grocery bags for this next
> part.  Now that your
> seat covers are warm and supple, put the trash bags
> over the seats.  Then
> stretch the seat covers over the seats.  The trash
> bags slide and will make
> it easier to stretch the seat covers over the seats.
>  Pull and align the
> covers.  For most, do the bottom of the seats first
> then the top.  Use hog
> rings to mount to frame.  Try not to stretch the
> upholstery too much.  It
> should be taught not overly stretched.  It will
> shrink over time.  So if it
> is overly stretched it will tear easier as it
> shrinks.
===================================
Okay, this info helps out ALOT considering I am
planning on recovering my seats soon. I have one
question though. The trash bags stay inside the seat
cover then? Doesn't this make a plastic "crinkling"
noise everytime you sit in the seat?
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 10:25:27 -0500
From: "Johnson, Samuel" <SJohnso6@allstate.com>
Subject: Brake Dust

My Alloy rims are getting a lot of brake dust on them.  Is that a sign for
something bad or should I not worry about it.

Thanks

Sam Johnson
71 Cutlass 455
95 Thunderbird

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 10:25:36 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Brake Dust

Sam,

This may be normal wear. You just break a lot and the surface of the
alloy rims shows the dust more then a regular non-shiny steel rim on a
dayly driver...

Other reasons could be:

Stuck caliper(s) which is not likely if you have the same amount of dust
on both sides. Usually if the caliper does not retract, the pads are
contacting the rotors constantly under pressure leading to excess wear.
If this is the case on one side you will feel your car pulling to that
side. It is not likely that both calipers are bad and have the exact same
effect on both sides so your car would still handle correct.

Very unlikely: The break pads are worn and you are grinding the rivets on
the rotors. Then you will have lots of noise and a LOT of metal shavings.
I assume that this is not the case...

A reason for the dust to show up may be the alloy rims. If you have
regular steel rims you don't pay attention to the amount of dust from the
brake... but when the goodies get dusty....

Hope this helps. George

- ---------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv.
- ---------------------

On Wed, 12 May 1999, Johnson, Samuel wrote:

> My Alloy rims are getting a lot of brake dust on them.  Is that a sign for
> something bad or should I not worry about it.
>
> Thanks
>
> Sam Johnson
> 71 Cutlass 455
> 95 Thunderbird
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 12:54:03 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Rumble

I know this will be a tough thing to diagnose long-distance, but I wonder
if you guys can offer me suggestions on where to look and what to look
for...

The '68 has started to evidence a "rumble" for want of a better word. It
is a low-pitched sound, seems to be coming from the back but hard to tell
for sure. Sometimes there, sometimes not, depends on speed. I would
suspect exhaust, but unless I'm imagining things there seems to be a
different "feel" to the car. Not really a noticeable vibration as much as
a lack of smoothness or a sense of grittiness in the feel of the thing.

I dunno where to check or what to look for:
exhaust?
rear diff? (hope not!)
Axle bearings?
Front wheel bearings?
U-joints?
Tranny?

Since the noise is most evident at speed it is kind of hard to check these
things out in the garage, but maybe some of you have suggestions. I'm
worried, but don't want to start replacing parts indiscriminately...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 09:22:21 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Rumble

>The '68 has started to evidence a "rumble" for want of a better
>word. It is a low-pitched sound, seems to be coming from the back
>but hard to tell for sure. Sometimes there, sometimes not, depends
>on speed.

I vote for rear axle bearings. This develops over a long period of time, not
overnight. My '76 had the problem, and when I finally got around to changing
them, it was amazing how quiet the car was after that, and how I'd become
used to hearing all those noises back there that weren't really supposed to
be there.

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 11:09:01 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Rumble


> The '68 has started to evidence a "rumble" for want of a better word. It
> is a low-pitched sound, seems to be coming from the back but hard to tell
> for sure. Sometimes there, sometimes not, depends on speed. I would
> suspect exhaust, but unless I'm imagining things there seems to be a
> different "feel" to the car. Not really a noticeable vibration as much as
> a lack of smoothness or a sense of grittiness in the feel of the thing.
>
> I dunno where to check or what to look for:
> exhaust?

as you say, the different "feel" does not make this very likely!

> rear diff? (hope not!)

uh, in my eyes this is most likely! Get off the cover and look for
shavings and inspect gears. This check does not take much and will give
you an idea and an oil change of the rear too. If it is bad you will be
able to see it. If it is the rear, good chance to get some nicer gear
ratio...

> Axle bearings?
Also an idea, less likely in my op. and I don't know how to check these
guys. You should also check the rear wheel bearings. (Jack up car and
turn the wheels and try to 'shake' them and look for play.)

> Front wheel bearings?
Same test then rear wheel bearings. Not very likely when you hear noises
from the rear.

> U-joints?
Don't usually produce that harsh noises. In my ex. they usually start
squieking but they never 'rumbled' on me. Maybe they will start to
rumble at some point if you let them squiek for 100k.

> Tranny?
No way to check it when it shifts properly! But I think that is not a
likely cause. Usually trannys start slipping from age if they haven't
been taking abuse like frequent racing or pulling.

> Since the noise is most evident at speed it is kind of hard to check these
> things out in the garage, but maybe some of you have suggestions. I'm
> worried, but don't want to start replacing parts indiscriminately...
You can test many things without replacing them straight. You should also
get someone (mechanically skilled) with you for a ride. Place him (or
her) in the rear of the cutlass and let him/her listen for the noises.
Somentimes these noises are much louder in the rear due to interierences
and resonances.

Then there is also the reputable shop, knowing old cars well: Let them
have a test ride and let them tell you what they think. Will not cost
anything otherwise the shop should not be called reputable.

Hope this helps.

George

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 09:29:39 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: MOPAR blues (TIMING, please HELP) with Olds Content

>thinking, thinking, thinking . . . was there such an animal as a
>Caravan in 1981? . . . hmmmmmm

Nope. 1984, IIRC.

Hey, did the '81's still have those goofy ceramic resistors on the firewall?
The ones where, when the resistor burned out, the engine would run while the
starter was cranking (and the resistor was bypassed), then die as soon as
you released the key? Big fun! MoPar owners would always carry a spare in
the glovebox. Maybe yours has a loose connection. I had a '79 Diplomat many
years ago with that problem; it would die mysteriously at random intervals.

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 12:51:01 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Rumble

Greg,

I'd check u-joints first.  They can cause a low, cyclic (fades in and out)
rumble at speed, sometimes can even feel a little vibration in the car.  It's
sometimes hard to detect by just trying to move the drive shaft by hand and
trying to see if there's any play at the u-joint.  Best to unbolt and move the
u- joint arould by hand to feel for bad bearing.

Dude

Greg Beaulieu wrote:

> I know this will be a tough thing to diagnose long-distance, but I wonder
> if you guys can offer me suggestions on where to look and what to look
> for...
>
> The '68 has started to evidence a "rumble" for want of a better word. It
> is a low-pitched sound, seems to be coming from the back but hard to tell
> for sure. Sometimes there, sometimes not, depends on speed. I would
> suspect exhaust, but unless I'm imagining things there seems to be a
> different "feel" to the car. Not really a noticeable vibration as much as
> a lack of smoothness or a sense of grittiness in the feel of the thing.
>
> I dunno where to check or what to look for:
> exhaust?
> rear diff? (hope not!)
> Axle bearings?
> Front wheel bearings?
> U-joints?
> Tranny?
>
> Since the noise is most evident at speed it is kind of hard to check these
> things out in the garage, but maybe some of you have suggestions. I'm
> worried, but don't want to start replacing parts indiscriminately...
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>    --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
>              &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 13:03:09 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine ID:still looking

In a message dated 99-05-12 10:53:47 EDT, you write:

<< Do you need a mirror to see the number? >>

Uh, no, but for lack of shifting the alt or PS bracket, Kurt & Rose meant an
easier way to see the # w/o breaking out tools.

Standing to the side whilst playing a mirror accross the front of the block
esp on what is obscured by the bracket.

Did see same article as original post.
The guys at Chevvy Craft did throw a bone or two to Olds in other articles,
but the tiny blurb for spotting Olds BB's was laughable.

But better for those who are initiates of Oldsmobile.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 13:12:11 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Ignition switch desparation

The manual I have says to turn the lock assembly to the "run" position,
then insert the screw driver into the slot.  Then pull outboard on lock
assembly to remove.  Thats all I have here.  Hope it helps.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Scott Baughman <wsbjr1@hotmail.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 9:16 AM
Subject: Ignition switch desparation


> To all - hopefully someone can help.  I have a 1970 Cutlass supreme and
> cannot for the life of me figure out how to remove the ignition lock
switch.
>   I have removed the wheel, the plate, and the turnsignal switch.  The
> service manual for the car says to insert a screw driver into the slot and
> pull out the ignition switch - well there is no slot.  Any suggestions
would
> be GREATLY appreciated.
>
> thanks,
> WB
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 13:09:07 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: ~Casting Call~

In a message dated 99-05-11 23:22:42 EDT, you write:

<< 395558-2 >>

According to the Olds FAQ (www.442.com)...

39558 2 is peculiar to 350's of 1968-70.

These are the first Olds 350's and prolly have higher nickel content than
later years.

381917 (1 and 2) are 330 motors.

Karl  has personally spied a 381917 1A!

But never managed to speak to the owner.

Alas.

And a lad.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 11:18:42 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: MOPAR blues (TIMING, please HELP)

> How about starting with something like 12 BTDC @800? Just guessing here,
but
> if it's detonating and stalling after you've got a ballpark setting like
> that in place, maybe something else is wrong.

Sounds good.  Timing was OKAY until I started to mess with it to 'tune it'
to the best of my ability.  It all started when I beat my friends Chevy
truck (350, headers, Intake, 3.73s) with this Van and then he did something
to beat me so I wanted revenge.  I tried two different carbs, same story.
The motor is a 367 (360 .030 over), RV cam, only about 30,000 miles on it
(so decent timing chain), tight belts, RWD of course, no vacuum leak, and
terrible timing.  It is the timing because I move it and it gets
better/worst significantly including detonations and so on.  I had it set at
6 deg. BTDC @ about 800 RPM, and it did not hesitate or anything but just
didn't pull worth crap.  I will try 12 deg..  The thing has a 727 trans and
4.10s.  I bet it will beat that Camaro (that is my plan).  If you ever saw
this van, you would laugh.  The body is so bad that entire pieces of it are
missing.  Imagine that pulling ahead of a nice, new paint and motor, TBI
IROC-Z.  HA HA.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 12:22:18 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Rumble

>The '68 has started to evidence a "rumble" for want of a better word. It
>is a low-pitched sound, seems to be coming from the back but hard to tell
>for sure. Sometimes there, sometimes not, depends on speed. I would
>suspect exhaust, but unless I'm imagining things there seems to be a
>different "feel" to the car. Not really a noticeable vibration as much as
>a lack of smoothness or a sense of grittiness in the feel of the thing.


I had something similar happen to me on my 72.  It was a deep bass
tone that seemed to come from everywhere and nowhere if you understand
my meaning.  After a couple months of trying to track it down with no
luck, I noticed it only happened going slightly downhill and especially
if I let off the throttle.  Sound like your problem?  I found the cause by
chance one day when I was under the car.  Pushed up on the drive shaft
and the whole trans flipped up and hit the floor.  Upon closer inspection,
I found scratch marks where the drive shaft had been hitting the floor as
it was spinning.  I had a 350/TH350 and it was almost perfectly balanced
on the front motor mounts so that when I went downhill the whole engine/
trans would rock forward.  Replaced the trans mount and never had another
problem.  Easy to check and easier to fix.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 13:27:55 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Engine ID:still looking

I can see the number on mine by performing a little garagemans' yoga.   A
mirror my be needed if you cant see it either thru the front fender or by
leaning into the engine bay.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <LOUS69W30@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 10:51 AM
Subject: Re: Engine ID:still looking


> In a message dated 05/11/1999 11:35:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> meso@pamlico.net writes:
>
> << You may have to remove the alternator bracket.  You will not see it
under
>  the car.  There is a flat spot that the number is stamped on.  The flat
area
>  is part of the block not the head.  You will also need to clean the area
to
>  see the number. >>
>
> Do you need a mirror to see the number?
>
> Lou Principe
> 69 442 W-30
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 13:23:21 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Great Midwestern Caravan of 1999.

Or it would be if anyone else was going.

Had some interest last year.

Not heard from anyone lately.

Master Biggs' is a potential stopover, though we fear he may be localized due
to ill health.

Considered dropping by the Bryce-man, but got no reply from him on that
subject.

(he may appear in Dallas anyhow....)

Plan is to roll through Misery, ...er, the Great State of Misourri on the way.

If Karl is ignoring anyone, please copy and paste the above email address as
Karl lost lotsa info over past year.

And, point of origin is the Oldsmobile Homecoming (& swapmeet ((yahoo!))) in
Lansing, the previous week-end.

Hear that there is a "beater" class at Homecoming!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 13:41:06 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: helloooo & ramblings

lololololol:)  In a word.......NO!   You might try..."  What do ya mean tooo
fast.  I still had one more gear left."
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 8:59 AM
Subject: Re: helloooo & ramblings


> So, "I know I was doing 130 Officer, but I didn't see
> any sign!" probably wouldn't work then? ;-)
>
> --- steve harris <meso@pamlico.net> wrote:
> > Be forewarned the law is "any prudent speed under
> > 85mph"
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
> > To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> > Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 10:00 AM
> > Subject: Re: helloooo & ramblings
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Rock Man wrote:
> > > >
> > > > <snip>
> > > > Head on
> > > > over to Montana for some fun though! No speed
> > limits
> > > > there. :-)
> > >
> > > Hurry, they have voted for speed limits (75 MPH I
> > believe) on the roads
> > that
> > > used to be "Whatever speed is prudent."  They may
> > even have implemented
> > them
> > > already.  This reminds me of a question posted on
> > another newsgroup where
> > the
> > > person asked "A guy I know was doing 40 MPH around
> > a corner marked max. 40
> > MPH
> > > and he tipped his truck over, do you think he was
> > going too fast?"  Duh,
> > by
> > > definition if you roll your truck you were doing
> > too fast.  A well set up
> > Olds
> > > could zip through at twice the posted limit while
> > a truck carrying
> > swinging
> > > beef could flip at almost half.  A guy in Montana
> > got caught speeding
> > twice and
> > > although he was a professional race car driver in
> > a ZR-1 Corvette he was
> > still
> > > convicted even though he was only doing 120 mph.
> > >
> > > And on the same (earlier) topic, I read somewhere
> > that the safest speed
> > was the
> > > 80% percentile mark of the general traffic flow.
> > Therefore, you should be
> > > passing 8 out of 10 cars and letting 2 out of 10
> > cars pass you.  Something
> > like
> > > that.
> > >
> > > Of course if you can't do division in your head
> > and count cars and drive
> > at the
> > > same time this would not help you :))
> > > --
> > >
> > > Cliff "Can't listen to the radio and drive at the
> > same time" Simpson
> > > mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
> > > '69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
> > >
> >
> http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html
> > >
> >
> >
>
> ===
> Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> rockman20@yahoo.com
> 1986 Honda Accord DX
> 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
> 1981 John Deer Snowmobile
> 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
> 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 13:46:28 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Rumble

It will be a process of elimination.  I have seen the other postings,  and I
agree with them.  My vote is for the u-joints or rear axle bearings.  Happy
hunting.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 11:54 AM
Subject: Rumble


> I know this will be a tough thing to diagnose long-distance, but I wonder
> if you guys can offer me suggestions on where to look and what to look
> for...
>
> The '68 has started to evidence a "rumble" for want of a better word. It
> is a low-pitched sound, seems to be coming from the back but hard to tell
> for sure. Sometimes there, sometimes not, depends on speed. I would
> suspect exhaust, but unless I'm imagining things there seems to be a
> different "feel" to the car. Not really a noticeable vibration as much as
> a lack of smoothness or a sense of grittiness in the feel of the thing.
>
> I dunno where to check or what to look for:
> exhaust?
> rear diff? (hope not!)
> Axle bearings?
> Front wheel bearings?
> U-joints?
> Tranny?
>
> Since the noise is most evident at speed it is kind of hard to check these
> things out in the garage, but maybe some of you have suggestions. I'm
> worried, but don't want to start replacing parts indiscriminately...
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>    --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
>              &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 14:08:27 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Score 2

Well it finally paid off. Last sunday (even though I was sick as a dog and
still am) I came home with 2 455s. One is a complete 1970 F3 block 455 with
E heads, 365hp 500ft/lb, that (supposedly) runs excellent. I'll know more
once I get the covers off and do some inspecting. If all looks well I'll
get it on the break-in stand plumb it, prime it and fire it up. This one
gets dropped in the Omega S.
The other 455 is a '73-'76 (I'll check the vin) F6 block with (cough cough)
J heads (cough cough). It came minus carb and the guy I got it from said
the previous owner left it outside covered with a tarp and it got about 1
1/2 quart of water in it. The guy I got it from said he drained it and
dumped 1 qt of tranny fluid down the intake. This one has no destination
yet. Maybe I'll just play with it. A 455 powered lawn tractor would be cool.
I should be feeling better this weekend and I'll get down and dirty on 'em.

BTW If anyone is looking for a 455 I know of a few others in the southern
PA/Baltimore MD region. Just let me know.

ps (Mine aren't for sale)

pss - Jim. I forgot the wheel well trim again. I promise to have them Monday.

Omega Man
'74 Omega S 455/auto
'74 Omega 455 4/speed
1 floating 455 (looks like I need another Omega :)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 14:25:00 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Score 2

I have had a hard time finding anything Oldsmobile around here.  You are
very lucky.  I realy like the lawn tractor idea:)
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 2:08 PM
Subject: Score 2


> Well it finally paid off. Last sunday (even though I was sick as a dog and
> still am) I came home with 2 455s. One is a complete 1970 F3 block 455
with
> E heads, 365hp 500ft/lb, that (supposedly) runs excellent. I'll know more
> once I get the covers off and do some inspecting. If all looks well I'll
> get it on the break-in stand plumb it, prime it and fire it up. This one
> gets dropped in the Omega S.
> The other 455 is a '73-'76 (I'll check the vin) F6 block with (cough
cough)
> J heads (cough cough). It came minus carb and the guy I got it from said
> the previous owner left it outside covered with a tarp and it got about 1
> 1/2 quart of water in it. The guy I got it from said he drained it and
> dumped 1 qt of tranny fluid down the intake. This one has no destination
> yet. Maybe I'll just play with it. A 455 powered lawn tractor would be
cool.
> I should be feeling better this weekend and I'll get down and dirty on
'em.
>
> BTW If anyone is looking for a 455 I know of a few others in the southern
> PA/Baltimore MD region. Just let me know.
>
> ps (Mine aren't for sale)
>
> pss - Jim. I forgot the wheel well trim again. I promise to have them
Monday.
>
> Omega Man
> '74 Omega S 455/auto
> '74 Omega 455 4/speed
> 1 floating 455 (looks like I need another Omega :)
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 14:23:56 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Score 2

Oh, I forgot to mention. I got both 455s for $500. :) :)

Omega Man
'74 Omega S 455/auto
'74 Omega 455 4/speed
1 floating 455 (looks like I need another Omega :)






At 02:25 PM 5/12/99 -0400, you wrote:
>I have had a hard time finding anything Oldsmobile around here.  You are
>very lucky.  I realy like the lawn tractor idea:)
>meso@pamlico.net
>Steve
>North Carolina
>ICQ#26466860
>http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 2:08 PM
>Subject: Score 2
>
>
>> Well it finally paid off. Last sunday (even though I was sick as a dog and
>> still am) I came home with 2 455s. One is a complete 1970 F3 block 455
>with
>> E heads, 365hp 500ft/lb, that (supposedly) runs excellent. I'll know more
>> once I get the covers off and do some inspecting. If all looks well I'll
>> get it on the break-in stand plumb it, prime it and fire it up. This one
>> gets dropped in the Omega S.
>> The other 455 is a '73-'76 (I'll check the vin) F6 block with (cough
>cough)
>> J heads (cough cough). It came minus carb and the guy I got it from said
>> the previous owner left it outside covered with a tarp and it got about 1
>> 1/2 quart of water in it. The guy I got it from said he drained it and
>> dumped 1 qt of tranny fluid down the intake. This one has no destination
>> yet. Maybe I'll just play with it. A 455 powered lawn tractor would be
>cool.
>> I should be feeling better this weekend and I'll get down and dirty on
>'em.
>>
>> BTW If anyone is looking for a 455 I know of a few others in the southern
>> PA/Baltimore MD region. Just let me know.
>>
>> ps (Mine aren't for sale)
>>
>> pss - Jim. I forgot the wheel well trim again. I promise to have them
>Monday.
>>
>> Omega Man
>> '74 Omega S 455/auto
>> '74 Omega 455 4/speed
>> 1 floating 455 (looks like I need another Omega :)
>>
>>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 15:13:18 -0700
From: tnsbishop@fuse.net
Subject: Re: Engine ID:still looking

i have a 69 442 conv with a block number 396026 and a g i think on it .
what is this engine? i s it the correct engine for this year. thanks for
any help.

Toby Bishop
69 442 conv

LOUS69W30@aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 05/11/1999 11:35:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> meso@pamlico.net writes:
>
> << You may have to remove the alternator bracket.  You will not see it under
>  the car.  There is a flat spot that the number is stamped on.  The flat area
>  is part of the block not the head.  You will also need to clean the area to
>  see the number. >>
>
> Do you need a mirror to see the number?
>
> Lou Principe
> 69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 15:14:56 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Engine ID:still looking

i have a 69 442 conv with a block number 396026 and a g...
________

That's the G-block 400 motor, which was used in the 1968-69 442s.  This would
be
a correct block for your car, however to determine if it's the original
numbers-matching motor for the car, refer to the thread currently going on
about
the location of the VIN-derivative number.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 14:17:58 -0500
From: Poke <poke@clinton.net>
Subject: 1976 Olds

Having lost my storage space, I would like to sell my 1976 Olds  98. Its
a 4door hardtime with 68k miles, in excellent shape


  poke@clinton.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 13:17:49 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Engine ID:still looking

tnsbishop@fuse.net wrote:
>
> i have a 69 442 conv with a block number 396026 and a g i think on it .
> what is this engine? i s it the correct engine for this year. thanks for
> any help.

>From the FAQ:
  G    '68 - '69   400   396026   442/Vista/etc. engine.

Yep, that's a 68-69 442 or L31 Vista Cruiser 400 c.i.d. motor.  Now you need
to check the VIN to see if it came in your particular car.

Hope this helps,
- --

Cliff "Soon to have 2 running G blocks sitting on the floor" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 12:25:19 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: MOPAR blues (TIMING, please HELP)

>It is the timing because I move it and it gets better/worse
>significantly including detonations and so on.

Say, you haven't disconnected the EGR, have you? That would get you
detonations like crazy...

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 14:35:33 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: (reverb unit)

Steve;
This is when it is good to be older, if ever.
It's almost a echo unit (as in digital delay ) but used capacitors to delay
the current to the speaker system. Actually the speaker played the original
sound once and micro seconds later the unit duplicated the same sound and
sent it to the speaker making an echo effect, supposedly enhancing the
sound produced. This was probably before stereo systems. Last on I saw was
in the early sixties. Have no idea how they were hooked up though. A guess
is just the two wires in and two out to the speaker
Lou
- ----------
> From: steve harris <meso@pamlico.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: (no subject)
> Date: Monday, May 10, 1999 7:50 PM
>
> Ahhhh....whats a reverb unit?
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 15:13:57 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Great Midwestern Caravan of 1999.

K;
Planning on going if physical able, will let you know ahead of time.
Lou

- ----------
> From: KarlAunan@aol.com
> To: Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Great Midwestern Caravan of 1999.
> Date: Wednesday, May 12, 1999 12:23 PM

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 15:19:08 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Reverb

Dave;
Post to old post, must have springs in them, a friend had one and if he hit
a large bump you could hear a springing noise from the speaker.
Boooiiiiinnnnng. Ah, such verbiage.
Lou


- ----------
> From: Wyatt <Wyatt@jobax.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Reverb
> Date: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 8:24 AM
>
> I have heard reverb and it does wonders for AM radio.  It will also make
> strange noises when left on with the radio off as it picks up road
> vibrations.
> Most units, if not all, have a spring inside that has something to do
> with the reverberation process.  To be fair, my first 8 track stereo had
> better sound, but reverb was a neat effect for it's time.
>
> Dave Wyatt
> 70   4-4-2

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1953
*********************************




