Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1905


oldsmobile-digest      Wednesday, April 14 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1905



Re: G-tech
Re: G-tech
Re: G-tech
Dry weight
Re: those 1LE 12" disk brakes..
Re: Jetaway to TH350 
Re: [Re: LOL350 man gets educated425style]
Re: car shipping companies and prices
Re: Dual Exhaust
Re: Spring (Olds) fever ?'s
Re: new interior in '71 cutlass (panels/carpet)
Re: weird math
Re: 68 air cleaner color???
Re: Steering gearbox
Re: Re :steering gearbox
Re: fast-ratio steering boxes from F-bodies, again...
Re: fast-ratio steering boxes from F-bodies, again...
[none]
Fwd: 1965 98 value/part needed
Re: G-tech
Parts needed for 1972 "98"(right fender etc)
shifter handle removal
My Web Tv
Re: 215 Turbo charged
Re: rod-stroke ratio and cosine loss of horsepower
Re: Jetaway to TH350
Re: Rear-End swap
Re: rod-stroke ratio and cosine loss of horsepower
Connecting Rod length
Re :steering gearbox
door still stuck - 72 Cutlass
steering box - good news for me!
RE:  fast-ratio steering boxes from F-bodies, again...
Re: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass
Engine noise, stalling - fuel pump?
'75 Ninety Eight
Re: Engine noise, stalling - fuel pump?
RE: Dual Exhaust
Re: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass
Re: fast-ratio steering boxes from F-bodies, again...
RE: 215 Turbo charged
Re: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass
RE: 215 Turbo charged
updating your olds anyone put 17's on 70-72 yet???
Re: '75 Ninety Eight
Re: Engine noise, stalling - fuel pump?
Re: Engine noise, stalling - fuel pump?
Fwd: Brackets
Re: 215 Turbo charged
Re: G-tech
Re: sheet metal sources?
1995 Olds Delco CD Units
Re: 215 Turbo charged
Re: Engine noise, stalling - fuel pump?
Keeper of The Olds FAQ?
Florida Sabbatical
Re: 68 air cleaner color???
Re: rod-stroke ratio and cosine loss of horsepower = engine ping? + SOM

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 22:48:34 EDT
From: DrkSole96@aol.com
Subject: Re: G-tech

In a message dated 4/13/99 9:43:47 PM Central Daylight Time, rebel1@raex.com 
writes:

<< Donovan,
     Thanks! And if you don't mind me asking - how do you like yours?
  >>
Well, it's allright, the suction cup that mounts it to the windshield could 
be better though.  The display is pretty cool.
 Donovan Moser
 73 Cutlass Supreme
 DrkSole96@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 23:17:11 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: Re: G-tech

DrkSole96@aol.com wrote:

> << Donovan,
>      Thanks! And if you don't mind me asking - how do you like yours?
>   >>
> Well, it's allright, the suction cup that mounts it to the windshield could
> be better though.  The display is pretty cool.


"...Excuse me officer?  Oh no that's not a radar detector that's
my....well, that's an....uuum......" :)

Greg Pruett

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 23:24:02 -0400
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: G-tech

Greg Pruett wrote:

> DrkSole96@aol.com wrote:
>
> > << Donovan,
> >      Thanks! And if you don't mind me asking - how do you like yours?
> >   >>
> > Well, it's allright, the suction cup that mounts it to the windshield could
> > be better though.  The display is pretty cool.
>
> "...Excuse me officer?  Oh no that's not a radar detector that's
> my....well, that's an....uuum......" :)
>
> Greg Pruett

  And that's right after the officer hears you just runnin' the snot out of
it.... :-P

Todd Daenzer

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 12:29:07 +0900
From: Nick Dean <freewolf@msa.attmil.ne.jp>
Subject: Dry weight

Can anyone tell me what the stock dry and gross weights for the '72
Cutlass Supreme are?  I need to know for a certain type of Japanese
insurance I have to get.

TIA

Nick
'72 Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 22:35:54 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: those 1LE 12" disk brakes..

>well i guess that i could write it pup and take photos sins i will be
>doing the last ends of the conversion this weekend (or next (weather
>dependable))
>(is SPRINGTIME :-)  )
>but sins i will be using the camaro 11" disc`s i don't think it would be
>as interesting as the 12" 1LE rotors. (short on money right now but the
>hotchkis A-arms will be in place)
>My question is: there has been talking about 1LE CORVETTE rotors????
>my information says part nr:1801035(GM) from 88-92 1LE CAMARO???
>teach me..
>
>Trond-Jarle

Your info's right, they are F body rotors.  The 1LE was a special option on
the camaro for autocrossing and came with the big 12" rotors among 
other things.  Kind of like a WS6 firebird, but more serious.  

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 23:57:39 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Jetaway to TH350 

In a message dated 4/13/99 2:13:53 PM Central Daylight Time, 
Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com writes:

<< I just talked to the local tranny shop and he said he could replace my
 Jetaway with a TH350.
 
 He said it would probably require a rework to the driveshaft and a new
 yoke......all for about $800.
 
 Does this sound right??  I didn't think it was that hard of a thing to
 do............
  >>
  NOPE... I did the exact same swap in my driveway...no modifications 
whatsoever!. It is a direct bolt-in. The ONLY thing I had to change was the 
flexplate-to-torqueconvertor bolts...the 350 will not have a threaded tourque 
convertor, so you will need a TC bolt kit. It will cost you several 
dollars.(heeehee) 

Collyn

------------------------------

Date: 13 Apr 99 21:09:22 PDT
From: Randy Hermsen <76Cutlass@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: LOL350 man gets educated425style]

Four42much@aol.com wrote:
In a message dated 4/13/99 12:56:59 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
76Cutlass@netscape.net writes:

<< anyone need a 65 dynamic 88 for parts? >>

tilt wheel?.....Hot Rod Harry <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/">HOT 
ROD HARRY'S OLDSMOBILES
</A> 
hey hot rod Ill take a look in the morning for ya if it has a tilt whats this
motor worth the 425 steel forged crank??$$=  how come this motor got a 2
barrel if I score the car for the motor where and how much $$ is a 4barrel
intake manifold.havent got the car yet just gave the dude my number the other
day .hope he calls soon  lolo
                    randy
                      76 cutlass
                        van.  B.C. CANADA  THE WEST COAST PLAYGROUND

____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://webmail.netscape.com.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 23:19:57 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: car shipping companies and prices

><< Sorry this is non olds but of common car interest: I need to know how
> much it is to ship a parts car (2500 lb) that will drive up a truck ramp
> but not much farther. It does not have to be an enclosured shipping since
> the car is a parts car.
>
> Distance will be about 1300 miles (LA to PA).
>
> Any input (Experiences, Companies, Prices) greatly appreciated. Sorry for
> the non olds content. >>
>
>A friend of mine used Horseless Carriage to get a car from Minn to New
>Jersey.  It cost him close to $1,000.  However, it was in an enclosed
>trailer.  He had a very hard time pinning them down as to when they would
get
>it.  He was totally at their mercy.
>
>Lou Principe
>69 442 W-30

I believe many of the major car carriers offer open carriers for much
cheaper rates.  My uncle drives for Pilot Transport and they carry a
lot of show cars in enclosed trailers for the auto manufacturers.  They
also have open carriers for "test mules" that get ferried around from
the factory to different test tracks and such.  Very interesting what you
see on them.  Saw a 4wd blazer with the front axles taken out, isuzu
engine, hood scoop, and manufacturer plates.  Scary, but my uncle
said he's seen weirder.  Also a friend just bought a new truck.  Found
the one he wanted in Missouri and had it shipped in to Tennnessee
by the dealer.  Might want to check around local and see if it can be
back-hauled by someone for really cheap.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 23:34:27 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Dual Exhaust

>Mickey, 
>
>I would not rush into that. You will get the 20 % off any time at year 
>one if you shop for a decent amount. You just have to ask them for it. If 
>they only give you 10% discount it will still be worth the waiting until 
>you are sure what you want.
>
>I would not buy stock exhaust. When my muffler (glasspacks) will fall 
>off, I will bring my baby to my local shop that will put on a nice 
>flowmaster setup. I like that sound! I think that flowmaster is a great 
>muffler. It will be fairly quiet when driven easy goin and it gets a nice 
>aggressive noise when you hit the pedal.
>
>Just my 0.02
>
>Regards, George


I must agree with George.  The tailpipes I bought (then returned) from
Year One had heavy crinkle bends in them which would be just too
obvious from the back of the car.  I ended up having custom tailpipes
bent up from stock specs at a local shop.  When I do it again for
my 68 I'll get the Flowmaster setup.  For $280 you can get a complete
header back system with 2 chamber mufflers, 2 1/2" mandrel bent 
tubing, and crossover pipe.  If using manifolds all you have to do 
is worry about the front sections of the pipes which is fairly easy
to take care of.  For $100 you can get the tailpipes only and have
the rest done up custom with whatever mufflers you want.  All this
info is out of the new Jegs catalog.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 00:36:42 EDT
From: QWKCUTLASS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Spring (Olds) fever ?'s

Hey, i don't know much about Q jets but the torque con.  will be a pain, 
especially on your back.  There isn't much to it though, remove the drive 
shaft, undo tranny X member and remove bellhouseing bolts, torque converter 
bolts and slide the tranny away from the engine.  To remove the converter  
itself rotate it counter clockwise and it should come off after a couple 
turns.  Put some fluid in your new converter and push and turn clockwise, you 
should hear 3 clicks, on the third on its on and put back the trans.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 23:59:32 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: new interior in '71 cutlass (panels/carpet)

>I'm looking into replacing the pearl white interior door panels in my '71
>convertible cutlass supreme.  I noticed Year One has unassembled and
>assembled ones.  I've also noticed in the Fusick catalog, they only carry
>unassembled because the others don't meet their quality standards.  My
>originals are in okay shape, the vinyl is worn through on the corners and
>the chrome around the "wood" is gone.  The black carpet at the bottom also
>needs replacing (it turned purple).
>
>I also need new black carpeting.  Is there any differences between vendors?
>Year One's in under $100 before shipping.  I'm expecting some pretty heavy
>rust on the floor panels, what the best do-it-yourself quick fix for that?
>I'm thinking of grinding it down a little bit and treating with some sort
of
>chemical.  If I can see the road when I pull out the carpet, I was thinking
>of some thin steel plate to be welded in (cheaply, I hope).
>
>Has anyone done this themselves?  I'd appreciate some tips from experience
>before I tackle this myself.
>
>thanks,

>greg z

As far as a quick fix to get you down the road, I just used aluminum.
I poked and prodded to find the extent of the damage and cut out
the worst of it.  I used an abrasive disc to get the surface rust off
(mine had rusted from the inside out) and then treated it with
rust converter.  After that was dried, I cut out a piece of aluminum
big enough to cover the holes and used my ball peen to make it
roughly the same contour as the floor pan.  Some silicone and
some pop rivets and I was done.  Since I don't have the money
to buy the repro pans, this will at least keep things from getting
any worse, and I haven't hurt the undamaged metal except for
a few 1/8" holes.  I have built complete floors for beaters before
out of angle iron and aluminum sheet and although not pretty,
outlived the vehicles.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 23:05:02 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: weird math

you are absolutely correct  I have no excuse for not being precise. :-)

As a graduate with a secondary Ed. degree in math I should know better I
would never let my students get away with such an error.  :-)

LP

- -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Kantowski <mkantowski@mcguireng.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 8:10 AM
Subject: weird math


>
>>I believe this is an over simplification of the 350BB 350SB comparison.
If
>>both engines have the same displacement then ether they have the same bore
>>and stroke or they don't.  If they do then the smallblock wins on weight.
>>If they don't then the one with the shorter stroke (meaning bigger bore
and
>>larger valves) wins the horsepower race based on better breathing and less
>>ring drag at higher rpm The one with the longer stroke MAY make more
torque
>>but it is not a given.  Reason ?  smaller bore smaller valves.
>>
>>Hp = (torque*rpm) / 5250      torque = force   horsepower = work
>
>I don't know a lot about engines, but these formulas a little fishy... For
>example: Horsepower = work/time. It's a power measurement like Watts.  Just
>being tedious, but I hate to see formulas that are confusing.  Not raggin'
>on ya, just a general beef about some of the shotty math I see thrown up
>from time to time.  Mean no disrespect to anyone's math, as long as it
works
>for you!
>
>-Mike Kantowski
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 02:01:34 EDT
From: Socalolds@aol.com
Subject: Re: 68 air cleaner color???

George,
Olds red is the correct color. 
Dennis

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 02:08:34 EDT
From: Socalolds@aol.com
Subject: Re: Steering gearbox

Doug,
They have four bolt flanges but I believe even on the TA's, like the Olds, 
they are bolted with 3 bolts through the frame.
Dennis

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 23:17:53 -0700
From: "Larry Pegg" <nurelic@primenet.com>
Subject: Re: Re :steering gearbox

I found this out the hard way.  My VC turns sharper than my EL Camino.  
LP

- -----Original Message-----
From: John Carri <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 2:41 PM
Subject: Re :steering gearbox


Phil Giannotta wrote:
<snip>
>I learned on the list yesterday that a box from a mid 70s camaro 
>would convert my car to fast ratio steering. I did more research on 
>it today at my friendly auto parts store and found there were two 
>boxes available for  mid 70s camaro , one a fast ratio box and the 
>other the same box that belongs on my car. How do I tell the 
>difference between the two at the junk yard if I decide to go this 
>route?   Also the guy at the parts store said I might develop a 
>serious case of over steer . Should I be concerned?    Thanks in
>advance
- ------------------------------

Phil, I hope you know that that F-body steering box might leave you 
with fast ratio steering but a huge turning radius - you might need 
all 4 lanes of a 4-lane highway to do a U-turn!  F-body cars used a 
longer pitman arm and steering arm than A-bodies, and the steering box 
has built in stops that restrict pitman arm travel.  Depending on the 
year of the F-body gearbox you may also encounter differences in the 
way the power-steering hoses connect to the steering gear - it might 
not match your existing hoses.

As for the "serious case of oversteer", here's one more for the 
"stupid parts clerks" thread.  Understeer and oversteer are decided by 
things like the weight at each end of the car, tire sizes, spring and 
sway-bar rates, etc., and are completely unrelated to the ratio in the 
steering box. What that parts guy meant was that since your steering 
will be quicker the car will be slightly more "twitchy" in response to 
small steering-wheel motions than before. If you are capable of 
driving any 90's car without killing yourself (they all have 
"fast-ratio" steering compared to our old A-bodies), you are capable 
of driving an older A-body with the fast-ratio box!

If you take a look at Global West's excellent website 
(www.globalwest.net) they recommend using fast-ratio steering on even 
the most basic handling package for GM A-bodies.


- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 02:15:21 EDT
From: Socalolds@aol.com
Subject: Re: fast-ratio steering boxes from F-bodies, again...

Mike,
A point of clarification. If you were to switch gear boxes from a 78-9TA you 
would have to use your old pittman arm, not the one off the TA. It won't work.
Dennis

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 00:26:54 -0700
From: Terry Watson <terent@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: fast-ratio steering boxes from F-bodies, again...

Socalolds@aol.com wrote:

> Mike,
> A point of clarification. If you were to switch gear boxes from a 78-9TA you
> would have to use your old pittman arm, not the one off the TA. It won't 
work.
> Dennis

 I've noticed everybody says the longer TA pitman arm won't work, haven't 
noticed
anyone saying why. The TA pitman arm is 1" longer as is the idler arm, the 
center
link is esentially the same length although larger in diameter. The only 
potential
problem I can see (with out actually installing it) is that the center link 
could
bind with the adjustable side links when the wheels were turned all the way one
way or the other.(thats using all the steering pieces from the TA) Is that the
problem or have I missed something?
Terry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 06:44:56 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: [none]

Not on the list, respond to partygod@hotmail.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Shari Adams" <adams.s@nevia.net>
Subject: grill to 79 cutlass

was wondering how to get a hold of a grill to a 1979 cutlass supreme =
brougham ole'  (olds limited edition) please help.  send response to =
partygod@hotmail.com not the address above please.

------------------------------

Date: 14 Apr 99 06:47:56 EDT
From: Mike Coccagna <mcoccagna@netscape.net>
Subject: Fwd: 1965 98 value/part needed

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------NetAddressPart-00--=_Nkv56896S0cb408621
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

This is a message sent to me from a non-subscriber(?) looking for info on=
 his
'65 98.  I can't help him, but I figured the Olds list could....

I don't believe he's on the list, so you may want to reply directly at:
     BrandedKennels@webtv.net

Thanks, =


Mike Coccagna
'91 442
'93 Achieva SCX

<--- Forwarded Message --->
From:	David Fernald [mailto:BrandedKennels@webtv.net]
Sent:	Wednesday, April 14, 1999 1:13 AM
Subject:	hi could you e mail. back and tell me what  my 1965 oldsmoble 
98=
is

hi could you e mail. back and tell me what  my 1965 oldsmoble 98 is worth=
=2E has
52000 original miles an is mint condition i also am looking
for rear bumper and doors thaks you. please responnd

____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at http://webm=
ail.netscape.com.

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From: "Mike Coccagna" <mike.coccagna@envirosense.com>
To: <mcoccagna@netscape.net>
Subject: FW: hi could you e mail. back and tell me   what  my 1965 oldsmoble 
98is
Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 07:14:10 -0400
Message-ID: <000401be8667$ec30d7d0$38ed43ce@envirosense.com>
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- -----Original Message-----
From:	David Fernald [mailto:BrandedKennels@webtv.net]
Sent:	Wednesday, April 14, 1999 1:13 AM
To:	mikec@pop.kis.net
Subject:	hi could you e mail. back and tell me   what  my 1965 oldsmoble
98is

worth. has 52000 original miles an is mint condition i also am looking
for rear bumper and doors thaks you. please responnd
n


- ------NetAddressPart-00--=_Nkv56896S0cb408621--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 07:41:52 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: G-tech

I think I saw Horsepower TV peddling those. If I may ask, How much did it
cost and where can you get one? 

Omega Man
'74 Omega S 455


At 10:48 PM 4/13/99 EDT, you wrote:
>In a message dated 4/13/99 9:43:47 PM Central Daylight Time, rebel1@raex.com 
>writes:
>
><< Donovan,
>     Thanks! And if you don't mind me asking - how do you like yours?
>  >>
>Well, it's allright, the suction cup that mounts it to the windshield could 
>be better though.  The display is pretty cool.
> Donovan Moser
> 73 Cutlass Supreme
> DrkSole96@aol.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 07:45:47 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Parts needed for 1972 "98"(right fender etc)

A friend of mine just got in an accident with his 72 2dr 98 and needs a right 
front fender, headlight housing and surrounding fiberglass area, and a front 
bumper....anyone out there have that....He lives in North Jersey....
Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 08:03:58 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: shifter handle removal

List,

        how do I go about removing the handle from
my Hurst shifter ?????   no bolts - held in with metal
shims ?? - I think you insert some sort of tool but
very fuzzy on this.........


Tanks
The General

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 07:25:27 -0500 (CDT)
From: drolds350@webtv.net (Jim McKeague)
Subject: My Web Tv

My WebTv only holds 150 e-mail messages so I'm sure I lost a lot of
e-mails Sunday night. If anyone sent me andy private e-mails on Sunday I
never got them. 
Thanks,

Jim McKeague
'70 Rallye 350
'70 Cutlass S W-31
http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html
Temporary E-Mail address: drolds350@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 07:31:09 +0500
From: Bob Brandys <oehcs@flash.net>
Subject: Re: 215 Turbo charged

>
Subject: Jetfire Aluminum Turbocharged V8

Does anyone know the original horsepower and torque rating of the
turbocharge 215 V-8 in the 61-63 jetfire?

Bob Brandys
oehcs@flash.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 07:45:04 -0500
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@email.mot.com>
Subject: Re: rod-stroke ratio and cosine loss of horsepower

Ok, explain the 260.....

:)

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!


>>Olds content, thank goodness Olds never build such a lemon.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 05:50:16 -0700 (PDT)
From: "R.Strachan" <creature48212@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Jetaway to TH350

 I have 69 that was a Jetaway 2 speed and it is now 
a TH350 .My console is still  set up for 2 speed .
What is Dremel and wil it help with my situation?


_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 05:53:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Rear-End swap

50 bucks for 3 hours of labor? Damn! Shops around here
charge anywhere from 40-60 bucks an hour for labor!!!!

- --- Kelly McCuller <kmcculler@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
> Is the new rear an exact copy and you're swapping
> the whole thing, brakes
> and all? Shouldn't be more than a couple or 3 hours
> labor, which is about
> $50 or so in Fla. If you're pulling pinion and
> carrier and such from one and
> moving it to the other and putting in new bearings
> and seals, that could
> easily be $350 - 400.
> 
> You sure the yard rear is good?
> 
> - Kelly
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Michael Kantowski <mkantowski@mcguireng.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Date: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 5:18 PM
> Subject: Rear-End swap
> 
> 
> >Hi List,
> >
> >I have a pretty general question...
> >
> >I have a '77 Cutlass with the 350 and I believe the
> rear-end is going.  I
> >want to have a good one on the car so I can drive
> it from Chicago to L.A.
> >soon.  I have a rear from a yard that is sitting in
> my back yard.
> >
> >Question:  What is a reasonable price range I'd
> expect to pay a shop to
> >perform the swap?  Also, can anyone recommend a
> shop in the Chicago area to
> >                do the work?
> >
> >P.S.  If everything goes well, I'll be driving out
> to L.A. in about 3
> weeks.
> >I have located a new body for my engine.  I'll try
> to sell parts from the
> >current
> >         car.
> >
> >If anyone is in need of parts and lives in the L.A.
> area, email me and I
> can
> >get back to you and let you know the status of my
> move.  These parts will
> be
> >cheap.  The parts I can offer are:
> >
> >            FENDERS (STRAIGHT, MINOR RUST STARTING
> ON THE CORNERS BY THE
> >DOORS)
> >            HOOD (FINE SHAPE, NO RUST)
> >            FRONT BUMPER (OK CONDITION, NEEDS SOME
> TOUCH-UP)
> >            SOME INTERIOR (ASK IF YOU'RE
> INTERESTED...DASH IS NOT TOO HOT)
> >
> >Thanks list,
> >
> >Mike Kantowski
> >
> >
> 
> 

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 08:07:16 -0500
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@email.mot.com>
Subject: Re: rod-stroke ratio and cosine loss of horsepower

Smokey Yunick once said that the best bore/stroke ratio was 2:1.

The ONLY engine I have found that comes close to 2:1 is the Pontiac 301.
6.050" Rod, 3.00" Stroke.  Pretty close to 2:1 wouldn't you say?  Something
DID comes good from the 301!!  (Mine ran 14.21@97.3, not bad for 4.9L!)

The SB Chevy was 5.7" Rod and varying strokes from 3in to 3.75 and nothing
makes the grade.

The SB Ford was worse, the 302 has a pathetic 5.135" Con Rod!!!  Ok, don't
go there....

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!
 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 08:11:50 -0500
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@email.mot.com>
Subject: Connecting Rod length

I am looking for a chart with rod journal sizes and rod length center to
center, rod width (big and small ends), and relative strength.  (Rockwell
hardness would be great!)  Any dimensions at all is more than what I have!  

Does anyone have a list, or know a place that I can find this?

I am working on a custom stroker and need to "play" with rods.

Please email me directly unless there is desire on the list for this info.  

If you only know a couple, or even one, please send it.  

I am familliar with older and newer SBC, 5.7", 2.00 and 2.1" journals, and
Pontiac, and Olds, but that is about all.  

Can anyone on the list help?

Thanks!
Tom

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 08:22:43 -0500
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@email.mot.com>
Subject: Re :steering gearbox

Very right.  The best box for the average chassis the 82-92 F Car and the
78-88 A/G Car, the best being the GN/442/HO/SS box.  There is a code that is
usually washed off that tells what it is on the end of the box.  (Series
800??)

I was able to convert my 1970 power steering pump to 1980 power steering
pump hoses by replacing the fitting that screws into the pump body with the
one from my 1980 power steering pump.  They are very different pumps, if you
have an old Olds 1970 and older compare it to a later 70's and up pump, they
are compatible with this change.  So, you will need the hoses from the year
of the power steering box, and then you may need the fitting on the pump
that matches those hoses, if there is a difference.  

One style is flared, and the newer one is flared with an o-ring at the end.
Done to reduce leaks.

Hope this sheds a little light if you are swapping a new box into an older
chassis.  Even some Fords used the GM Saginaw power steering boxes over the
years.  

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 1970 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!


>Phil, I hope you know that F-body steering box might leave you=20
>with fast ratio steering but a huge turning radius - you might need=20
>all 4 lanes of a 4-lane highway to do a U-turn!  F-body cars used a=20
>longer pitman arm and steering arm than A-bodies, and the steering box=20
>has built in stops that restrict pitman arm travel.  Depending on the=20
>year of the F-body gearbox you may also encounter differences in the=20
>way the power-steering hoses connect to the steering gear - it might=20
>not match your existing hoses.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 08:27:55 -0500
From: "Darrin Johnson" <xdarrinj@ti.com>
Subject: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass

I have tried the suggestions from the list to get my door open with no luck.
I have pushed, pried, lubricated, etc. everything that I can reach related
to the latch/lock mechanism with no change.  It really feels like the lock
mechanism will not completely disengage no matter how hard that I pry on it
(I am afraid of bending or breaking something).  Any additional suggestions
would be greatly appreciated.

Darrin Johnson
xdarrinj@ti.com
djohnsn@ibm.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 06:29:30 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: steering box - good news for me!

  I bought a steering box at a local salvage yard on Monday for $35. 
Yesterday, about 2 hours before I was going to swap it in, I talked to
a guy at work.  He asked me if I tried the adjustment screw. 
Adjustment screw?  Yes, there is an adjustment screw!  I adjusted the
thing, and it works PERFECT now!  That saves a couple hours work for
me.  Now I have an extra box, so I'm going to clean it up, toss it on
my shelf, and have it as a spare.  Life is good.

Stefan
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
70Cutlass@Beer.com
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 08:33:25 -0500
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas_Martin-WLTM07@email.mot.com>
Subject: RE:  fast-ratio steering boxes from F-bodies, again...

Use the 82-92 Trans AM WS6 Box.  Newest is best, has best road feel, and
fast ratio was only avail on WS6 cars, not plain jane Trans AM/Z28's.  Get
1992 Trans AM WS6, fits all 70-81 F-Car, does not have the short stops, and
you get the best there ever was in the power steering boxes that GM did for
high performance.  And the WS6 box is supposed to be constant ratio, not
variable ratio.  So double goodies from the WS6 box, 1982-1992.  The 78-81
WS6 Box was constant ratio, and did have the 12.7:1 ratio (2.25 turns lock
to lock, that is full left to full right boys and girls....) (Most are 3
turns lock to lock, 15.7:1 or so ratio) and the ratio from middle to sides
remains constant, almost ALL cars do NOT have constant ratio, they have a
variable ratio that does not turn much at the middle, but when you get past
1/2 turn left or right, it gets progressively faster for easier maneuvering
like parallel parking, etc.   Only WS6 Trans AM, Corvette and special cars
got the constant ratio.

Nearly ALL GM Chassis can use the 1982-1992 PS Box, so if you are going to
waste any money on one, get the best, don't waste money on the older 2 gen F
car box.  

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!


  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 06:41:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass

I know that this may sound impossible, given the fact
that we are working inside a door, but is there anyway
you can reach your arm all the way to where the latch
is? Maybe you could manually rotate the latch in
there. What I would do is look in there and try to get
a general idea of where the latch is and what parts
look like they move and then just blindly reach in and
feel for those parts. Maybe for some reason, the door
latch itself got disconnected from one of the levers.
But, since I am no expert on the physics of the door
latch assembly, this is just what I would try.
Also....maybe the post that the latch wraps around
broke off that is causing the latch to bind? (Can you
all tell I am grasping for straws?)

- --- Darrin Johnson <xdarrinj@ti.com> wrote:
> I have tried the suggestions from the list to get my
> door open with no luck.
> I have pushed, pried, lubricated, etc. everything
> that I can reach related
> to the latch/lock mechanism with no change.  It
> really feels like the lock
> mechanism will not completely disengage no matter
> how hard that I pry on it
> (I am afraid of bending or breaking something).  Any
> additional suggestions
> would be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Darrin Johnson
> xdarrinj@ti.com
> djohnsn@ibm.net
> 
> 
> 

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 08:41:13 -0500
From: "Darrin Johnson" <xdarrinj@ti.com>
Subject: Engine noise, stalling - fuel pump?

I have recently begun to experience a fast paced ticking noise that varies
with engine rpm.  This started immediately after the replacement of the
power steering pump, water pump, and radiator.  At the same time, I started
having problems with stalling.  I briefly started the engine with the
accessory belts removed and still experienced the noise, so I am hoping that
it might be the fuel pump.  The fuel pump is an AC brand pump with less than
100 miles on it.  Is there a good way to determine if the noise is an
internal engine noise or the fuel pump short of replacing the pump again.
The engine is a 1974 350 in a 72 Cutlass.

Darrin Johnson
xdarrinj@ti.com
djohnsn@ibm.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 08:44:09 -0500
From: DOUGLASS BEAVERS <DBEAVERS@alliance.csc.com>
Subject: '75 Ninety Eight

Can anyone recommend a Good Source where I might find an original
AM/FM 8 Track radio?

Thanks much
D Beavers.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 06:48:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Engine noise, stalling - fuel pump?

A ticking that varies with engine speed? Can you tell
where the ticking is coming from? Upper or lower on
the engine? The ticking sounds like it could be a
valve. Maybe a lifter collapsed. That would cause
stalling also wouldn't it guys? If the fuel pump is
new, I doubt it is that. But, you could always put a
pressure gauge on it and crank the engine over and see
what kind of pressure you are getting.

- --- Darrin Johnson <xdarrinj@ti.com> wrote:
> I have recently begun to experience a fast paced
> ticking noise that varies
> with engine rpm.  This started immediately after the
> replacement of the
> power steering pump, water pump, and radiator.  At
> the same time, I started
> having problems with stalling.  I briefly started
> the engine with the
> accessory belts removed and still experienced the
> noise, so I am hoping that
> it might be the fuel pump.  The fuel pump is an AC
> brand pump with less than
> 100 miles on it.  Is there a good way to determine
> if the noise is an
> internal engine noise or the fuel pump short of
> replacing the pump again.
> The engine is a 1974 350 in a 72 Cutlass.
> 
> Darrin Johnson
> xdarrinj@ti.com
> djohnsn@ibm.net
> 
> 
> 

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 08:53:27 -0500
From: Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com
Subject: RE: Dual Exhaust

Okay.......so does anyone know of a good muffler shop in the Dallas
Metroplex?????

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Mike Bloomer [SMTP:mbloomer@mindspring.com]
> Sent:	Tuesday, April 13, 1999 11:34 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	Re: Dual Exhaust
> 
> >Mickey, 
> >
> >I would not rush into that. You will get the 20 % off any time at
> year 
> >one if you shop for a decent amount. You just have to ask them for
> it. If 
> >they only give you 10% discount it will still be worth the waiting
> until 
> >you are sure what you want.
> >
> >I would not buy stock exhaust. When my muffler (glasspacks) will fall
> 
> >off, I will bring my baby to my local shop that will put on a nice 
> >flowmaster setup. I like that sound! I think that flowmaster is a
> great 
> >muffler. It will be fairly quiet when driven easy goin and it gets a
> nice 
> >aggressive noise when you hit the pedal.
> >
> >Just my 0.02
> >
> >Regards, George
> 
> 
> I must agree with George.  The tailpipes I bought (then returned) from
> Year One had heavy crinkle bends in them which would be just too
> obvious from the back of the car.  I ended up having custom tailpipes
> bent up from stock specs at a local shop.  When I do it again for
> my 68 I'll get the Flowmaster setup.  For $280 you can get a complete
> header back system with 2 chamber mufflers, 2 1/2" mandrel bent 
> tubing, and crossover pipe.  If using manifolds all you have to do 
> is worry about the front sections of the pipes which is fairly easy
> to take care of.  For $100 you can get the tailpipes only and have
> the rest done up custom with whatever mufflers you want.  All this
> info is out of the new Jegs catalog.
> 
> Mike Bloomer
> mbloomer@mindspring.com
> ICQ# 19113713
> http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 07:05:55 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass

> I have pushed, pried, lubricated, etc. everything that I can reach
> related to the latch/lock mechanism with no change.

Groan... Okay, floundering-around time...

In comparing the left door to the right one, comparing the outside 
pushbutton, outside key lock, inside door handle and inside lock knob, 
which of those feel "different" from one side to the other? I.e. which 
feel like they're not working on the left side?

Does the outside door button press in freely, the usual locked mode, 
or does it press in against major resistance?

> It really feels like the lock mechanism will not completely
> disengage no matter how hard that I pry on it (I am afraid of
> bending or breaking something). Any additional suggestions
> would be greatly appreciated.

What exactly are you prying on?

Can you feel whether the key lock on the outside will turn fully in 
both directions? How about the travel of the inside door lock plunger? 
Is the outside door button all the way out (as well as the rod on the 
back of it)? Inside door handle fully down/released?

Finally, where are you? Maybe one of us can make a site visit...

- -- Andy
>xdarrinj@ti.com
>djohnsn@ibm.net
>
>


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 10:30:38 -0700
From: joe lewis <lewis@amada.net>
Subject: Re: fast-ratio steering boxes from F-bodies, again...

swapping guts sounds like a mess. I used the steering box from a 87 monti
carlo SS the stops are the same and it really makes the car tight.Out of
all the upgrades i have done to my 72 cutlass this one improved the cars
handling the most The only diff is you must adapt the new style hose to
your old style. make sure you grab the hoses along with it.

John Carri wrote:

> As everyone on the list now knows, '79-'81 Trans Am steering boxes are
> fast ratio, but have stops that limit travel. A couple of people on
> this list suggested swapping the guts from one of these boxes into a
> regular steering box as a way to get rid of the stops. I don't doubt
> that this can be done, but I for one don't have the courage to get
> inside a power-steering gearbox.
>
> Here's an idea that occurred to me - the Firebird steering boxes have
> stops in them because they use a shorter pitman arm and idler arm,
> correct?  Well, is it possible to just use the longer F-body pitman
> arm and idler arm in our A-bodies along with the F-body steering box,
> and thus keep the fast ratio and the turning radius of the F-body?
> Obviously both F-body and A-body pitman arms will bolt onto the
> steering box, so the question is how about the idler arm? And the
> tapers for mounting to the centre-link, etc?
>
> If this works, it will require the tie-rods to be longer to keep the
> toe setting where it belongs.
>
> Any opinions on whether this is do-able?
>
> -John Carri
> '72 Supreme
> '73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 10:32:13 -0400
From: "Gary Couse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: RE: 215 Turbo charged

Along these lines, I must ask. Anyone have any links to more info on this
engine combination? I don't suppose that this engine shares the same basic
head configuration as the more modern Olds V-8? As in both intake + exhaust
port location? Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Bob Brandys
> Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 10:31 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 215 Turbo charged
>
>
> >
> Subject: Jetfire Aluminum Turbocharged V8
>
> Does anyone know the original horsepower and torque rating of the
> turbocharge 215 V-8 in the 61-63 jetfire?
>
> Bob Brandys
> oehcs@flash.net
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 10:38:08 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: door still stuck - 72 Cutlass

In a message dated 4/14/99 8:30:08 AM EST, xdarrinj@ti.com writes:

<< I have tried the suggestions from the list to get my door open with no 
luck.
 I have pushed, pried, lubricated, etc. everything that I can reach related
 to the latch/lock mechanism with no change.  It really feels like the lock
 mechanism will not completely disengage no matter how hard that I pry on it
 (I am afraid of bending or breaking something).  Any additional suggestions
 would be greatly appreciated. >>

Try driving it to a locksmith shop. That's what I'd do.
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 10:42:27 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: RE: 215 Turbo charged

Along these lines, I must ask. Anyone have any links to more info on this
engine combination? I don't suppose that this engine shares the same basic
head configuration as the more modern Olds V-8? As in both intake + exhaust
port location? Gary....
_______

Nope.  The 215 was actually a Buick motor, based heavily on the 90 degree V6
which has evolved into today's 3.8 liter motor.  Buick and Olds shared common
shortblocks, but the Olds version of the 215 got unique heads.  Other than the
distributor cap, the 215 has nothing in common with today's (actually,
yesterday's) Olds V8s.

One cool thing about the 215 is that it has much in common with the 64 Buick 
300
motor.  While the 215 was all aluminum, the 300 used aluminum heads on a cast
iron block.  It is possible to drop the crank and heads from the 300 onto a 215
short block and get a 5.0 liter all aluminum V8 that weighs about 310 lbs fully
dressed.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 10:46:05 -0700
From: joe lewis <lewis@amada.net>
Subject: updating your olds anyone put 17's on 70-72 yet???

> Has anyone done this modification yet? If so what backspaces did you use
> what width rim and what size tires. Any rubbing, is your car lowered?
> Thanks

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 10:52:17 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: '75 Ninety Eight

DOUGLASS BEAVERS wrote:
> 
> Can anyone recommend a Good Source where I might find an original
> AM/FM 8 Track radio?

I have one from my 75 'S' parts car. I don't know if it works (it
should), but I can find out for you and let you know.

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
***********************
'70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
'73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
'75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
http://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/
*******************************************

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 10:55:13 -0400
From: Nikolaj Richers <nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca>
Subject: Re: Engine noise, stalling - fuel pump?

> I have recently begun to experience a fast paced ticking noise that varies
> with engine rpm.  This started immediately after the replacement of the
> power steering pump, water pump, and radiator.  At the same time, I started
> having problems with stalling.  I briefly started the engine with the
> accessory belts removed and still experienced the noise, so I am hoping
> that
> it might be the fuel pump.

I found that a breaker bar, because it is solid steel, works well to
find mystery noises. Put one end on the fuel pump or block next to it
and hold your ear to the other end. Can you hear the tick? Poke around
some more till you are sure of its location. Put it on the water pump:
can you hear anything? Alternator, etc.?

That doesn't work for annyoing noises that happen only when the car
moves, of course. Say, like the one I've been trying to find for the
last two weeks. 

Good luck,

	Nikolaj

- -- 
Nikolaj Richers, Toronto, Canada; nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 08:08:06 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Engine noise, stalling - fuel pump?

> I found that a breaker bar, because it is solid steel, works
> well to find mystery noises. Put one end on the fuel pump or
> block next to it and hold your ear to the other end. Can you
> hear the tick?

*gulp*  May I suggest using a wooden broomstick instead? That way you 
don't have any of that pesky high-voltage zap through your ear canal 
if you get too close to a worn spark plug wire...  :-)

- -- Andy

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 08:09:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: "R.Strachan" <creature48212@yahoo.com>
Subject: Fwd: Brackets

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Hello fellow car nuts
I have 69 Cutlass 'S' with a 73 350 4bbl.I'm putting on the old
components(Alt.,P/S pump,Brackets) from the engine that was removed.
That engine was a 74/75 Olds 350 4bbl. from a station wagon i was told
from previous
owner. I installed the P/S and Alt. and looks like 
there is suppose to be two brackets that attach to  
both P/S and Alt. to the engine( Are these brackets required because
the bracket for the Alt. to eng. 
does't seem to line up quite right? On the P/S pump
the stud and bolt that attaches the pump doesn't seem
to hold it real well.Is there a bracket to connect the 
P/S pump to engine and is it necessary? My pulleys on 
my P/S pump and Alternator don't seem to line up with
engine and waterpump pulleys.My eng. and waterpump are three groove
pulleys.My alt is one groove and the 
P/S is a two groove pulley.Can you buy a set of pulleys for a 73 350
4bbl non A/C car or do you have to find them in the junk yard? And do
all Olds pulleys interchange with each other? 
 TIA Rick
 Detroit
 69 Cuatlass 'S'
 
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- --0-846930886-924102586=:7820--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 08:13:44 -0700
From: Corey Day <dayc@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: 215 Turbo charged

The Normal Apirated 215 made 155HP and the Turbo model made 215HP

Corey Day
dayc@ix.netcom.com
www.netcom.com/~dayc/

Bob Brandys wrote:

> >
> Subject: Jetfire Aluminum Turbocharged V8
>
> Does anyone know the original horsepower and torque rating of the
> turbocharge 215 V-8 in the 61-63 jetfire?
>
> Bob Brandys
> oehcs@flash.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 09:22:14 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: G-tech

Igor Todorovic wrote:
> 
> I would like to get one of those G-techs, but I don't have money right now.
> Are they cool and do you think if they are worth it?  Do they measure 0-60,
> and if so, what did  you get.  I would like to measure 60-0 on my '81
> Regency.  Probably 2 miles or so.  Ha Ha.

Go to http://www.gtechpro.com/ and check it out.  

There must be some place in town that rents these.  If not then a car club
should buy one and lend it to it's members.
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 08:36:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: sheet metal sources?

  Year One has it all!
- --- Jason Labay <jlabay@tdin.com> wrote:
> What is the best and cheapest source for replacement sheet metal for
> a 72
> Supreme? In particular I need a piece on the right rear fender well
> that
> extends from the lip up 5 inches all the way around.  Thanks
> 
> Jason Labay
> 
> 

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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 12:15:59 -0400
From: "Gibson, Mark T." <MARK.T.GIBSON@cpmx.saic.com>
Subject: 1995 Olds Delco CD Units

Has anyone else had continuing problems with their 1995 Delco CD units?  I
get error the messages E20, E21, E22, and E23.  I love my '95 Cutlass
Supreme Coupe, but this CD unit has been nothing but trouble since 7,800
miles ... and Olds won't do anything.  I have no recourse.

Any suggestions?  Any contacts for regional Olds reps in DC/MD/VA?  Thanks.

Mark Gibson
mgibson@his.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 12:27:41 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: 215 Turbo charged

In a message dated 99-04-14 11:14:24 EDT, you write:

<< The Normal Apirated 215 made 155HP >>
Thats the 2 barrel..the 4 barrel made 195 in 63.....The modern day LandRover 
company still uses this basic design and fuel injection....they bought the 
rights from GM in 64 and have used  it ever since...the 1980 TR-8 had it in 
it and the new 
4WD vehicles use it too with more cubes now ....Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 09:40:57 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Engine noise, stalling - fuel pump?

A long screwdriver with the handle still on works
pretty well also.

- --- "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > I found that a breaker bar, because it is solid
> steel, works
> > well to find mystery noises. Put one end on the
> fuel pump or
> > block next to it and hold your ear to the other
> end. Can you
> > hear the tick?
> 
> *gulp*  May I suggest using a wooden broomstick
> instead? That way you 
> don't have any of that pesky high-voltage zap
> through your ear canal 
> if you get too close to a worn spark plug wire... 
> :-)
> 
> -- Andy
> 
>
_______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit
> http://www.msn.com
> 

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 09:18:34 -0700
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Keeper of The Olds FAQ?

Hey all,
	I happened to be showing my dad the Olds FAQ last night and went to
the section on Restore >> Frame Off. I believe that the first paragraph is
from a note that I had posted to the list.  Credit is given at the bottom of
the section and a "Steve" is listed.  "[ Thanks to Steve, Frank Boerger, Joe
Padavano, Bill Culp, Charley Buehner, Cliff Feiler, Spencer Grant, Chris
Smetana for this information ]"

If the information was in fact mine (I haven't heard from too many others
that did a frame of on a '70 while in college, that had the car tie strapped
@ each corner to a neighboring tree) I'd just like to be credited.  Heck,
how often is my name printed somewhere on the 'Net?

Is David Brown still in charge of the FAQ?

Thanks!


Steve Reed
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 13:13:01 EDT
From: R4C442@aol.com
Subject: Florida Sabbatical

Hey kist!
	Am disappearing from the list for a few weeks to reappear in Daytona 
Beach. Anyone in that area want to perhaps quaff a flagon or two?
										
		Ron Forsee
										
		65 442-Meister

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 10:48:44 PDT
From: "OldsMaster Erickson" <cutlassnep@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 68 air cleaner color???

Red, orangeish red. Same on my dads 68.


>From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>To: OldsML <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Subject: 68 air cleaner color???
>Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 11:20:03 -0500 (CDT)
>
>
>I would need precise info on the color of a 68 4bbl 350 air cleaner 
on a 
>cutlass-s. 
>
>Some people have told me that it should be semi gloss black but the 
one I 
>have off a 68 c/s seems to be still the original color which is red! 
Also 
>my 68 olds brochure shows a 350 with a red air cleaner element!
>
>Anybody out there that can give me a 100% answer?
>
>Regards, George
>
>
>--------------------------------------------------------------
>'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
>http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
>--------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>


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------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 14:07:17 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: rod-stroke ratio and cosine loss of horsepower = engine ping? + 
SOM

...some inactivity due to sleep and Oldsmobiling and then....

<< I admit I'm lost here but isn't the 185 psi at the top of the cylinder 
while
 the maximum loss occurs 1/2 the way down the stroke where the throw is
 perpendicular to a line drawn from the wrist pin through the crank 
centerline? 
 If that was true then the maximum wear should be somewhere above the 1/2 
point
 where the pressure * cosine is at a maximum and the 843 lbs of sideways force
 would be less.  OTOH, I would expect that the pressure developed from the
 exploding gas would be much higher than 185 psi. .......

Sorry, ignore first post, I just remembered that it takes the fuel/air mixture
time to burn and therefore there is no single pressure peak but a complex
pressure curve.  Doh! >>

Hang on there Cliff!

You side-swiped Karl's early-on, although vague notion (Yep, was past 
bedtime) of the 8 cylinder model rather than the single cylinder.

A 4-stroke V8 must have two pistons firing during every stoke.
To be specific, use #1 cylinder as a reference.
Many Olds are factory timed at 7.5' BTDC (just an example).
If no aftermarket stuff to alter the timing of cylinder firing, another 
cylinder fires 7.5' before the stroke is half over.
And yet another cylinder fires 7.5' degrees before the stroke is complete 
(Bottom dead center????).

What Karl is driving at is that yes, again, the actual scenario is more 
complex, but how much can the cylinder wear part be affected by timing?

And how close is the factory timing to the point of maximim cosinal inerta 
loss to cylinder friction?

Mebbe no so much reaching ----> can this be the source of "ping"?
When the timing is set such that the force of the piston against the cylinder 
such that the piston is grabbing the wall and bouncing in the cylinder?

(Is that a scary scenario or what?)

And now for something completely different.
(And just as well, because the really cool tech threads usually die out with 
a post from Karl....)

Finally went and bought a spare (used) batt and case.

SOM had, on occasion, started, but sounded like batt low.
Not alt, because start again better after some driving.

This morning, delayed Karl leaving the environ of Hazardous Waste as solenoid 
popped, but just would not quite turn flexplate.

A kindly soul's assistance, fired, and away we go.
Stop at a location convenient for any repairs.
Switch off.
Starts great (like normal).

So some wierd short somewhere.
Not suprising.
Never did nothing about the PS fluid....
(gotta remember to ask J.C. about that)
... so lotsa crud in engine compartment, though battery clean.

Last time this happened there whas a huge icicle on the positive terminal.
Which discharged the battery to ground.

An aside: that morning was VERY cold!!!
Appeared had blown head gasket.
Never before or since saw vapor flow from heads like that.

Was it just the cold shrinking the heads/gasket more than the bolts (which 
are prolly frozen in another respect).

Anyway.
Peace, and Long Life to Oldsmobile blocks.
(Old Vulcan saying)

SOM

&KA  <---- Again, way past his bedtime.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1905
*********************************

