Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1993


oldsmobile-digest       Wednesday, June 2 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1993



Re: 8 track player????
Re: Great Midwestern Caravan dates set
Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy an Engine Plant?
Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy an Engine Plant?
RE: Snake oils and other engine voodoos
Re: Stormy Weather..... and SOM   [long]
Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy an Engine Plant?
RE: Stormy Weather..... and SOM   [long]
INDY
Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy an Engine Plant?
Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy an Engine Plant?
Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy an Engine Plant?
Olds for sale
Re: Stormy Weather..... and SOM [long]
Re: 1965 400 4 bbl intake
Re: greasing poly bushings (was weekend fun)
New Auto & Other Olds ?'s 
7.5 in 10 Bolt
Re: greasing bushings (was weekend fun)
Re: New Auto & Other Olds ?'s
Re: Stormy Weather..... and SOM   [long]
Re: 160 deg VS. 180 deg
Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos
Re: cam ID 
Re: posi question
Re: 160 deg vs 180 deg thermostat
Re: New Auto & Other Olds ?'s 
Re: What's wrong with 2.93 gears (was posi question)
F/S 66 98 tilt/telescope column@wheel and stuff
backfires and shocks (was Stormy Weather and SOM)
Re: posi question
Re: posi question
Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos
Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos
Re: posi question
Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos
ATF?
Re: Raising engine
Hello!

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 16:27:07 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: 8 track player????

Matt Cremean wrote:
> 
> Dr. Olds - K. Wood wrote:
> >
> > Anybody from the list have an 8 track player
> > for sale that will fit a 72 Cutlass?  I have obtained a good case for a
> > 72, but the player
> > is shot.  I know that normally the cases are the
> > parts that take the beating and the players play forever.  If anybody
> > has a player from Olds that
> > will interchange, I would be interested in a
> > price for such an item.  Really prefer a unit with
> > the wiring harnesses intact.
> >
> > Please send the information with required price
> > including approximate shipping to Hartland, Wisconsin 53027- to me
> > personally at
> > Dr-Olds@webtv.net
> >
> > Really appreciate any h*lp you guys can give.
> 
> I have an 8-track, don't know if it would fit your 72, but it came out
> of my 75. Pics can be seen at:
> http://www.geocities.com:80/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/8BACK.JPG
> http://www.geocities.com:80/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/8WIRES.JPG
> http://www.geocities.com:80/SiliconValley/Vista/3973/8FRONT.JPG
Matt,

That's a totally different unit I believe.  The 72 8 track mounts under
the dash and is separate from the radio which is up in the dash.  At
least every one I have ever seen is that way.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 15:25:31 CDT
From: "Steve Traynor" <dartster@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Great Midwestern Caravan dates set

OOOOf! Forgot to change the address <sighs tiredly>  Too much work...
Sorry for the unprivate that shoulda been private post.



Steve
1970 Cutlass S Hardtop
Garland, TX
ICQ# 108901, Use "Olds list" as Request for Authorization

Favorite motivational line, seen at a Renassaince Faire: "The beatings will 
continue until morale is up!"




_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 16:30:12 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy an Engine Plant?

Lets make some more '74 Omegas! We can roll them right off the line with
dual quad 455s and 4 speeds. Whooo hoooooo! I'm there fellas. 

dreaming out loud
Omega Man






At 04:27 PM 6/2/99 -0400, you wrote:
>I am in! lets make electric water pumps,  and front fenders 70-72 if
>possible. and lots of other-like-yaknow-stuff!
>meso@pamlico.net
>Steve
>North Carolina
>ICQ#26466860
>http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Ed Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 3:07 PM
>Subject: Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy an Engine Plant?
>
>
>> Me Me Me! Lets do heads too! And steel cranks! Blower Manifolds!
>> Heheheheheheheheheheheheh! (laughing insanely).
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>>
>> >Well, it is in a bad neighborhood, but...
>> >
>> >Lets see a show of hands.
>> >
>> >Who wants to invest in an engine plant and build aluminium 425s/455's?
>> >
>> >Or something?
>> >
>> >SOM
>> >
>> >&KA
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 15:30:05 CDT
From: "Steve Traynor" <dartster@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy an Engine Plant?

- --------------
C'mon!
Subscribers to the olds list number right around 600.
$100 apeice is $60000.
Is that a substantial offer for obsolete equipment or what?

We would need to enlist Jim Chermac for guidance as to what to make first 
and
how to get the molds/stamping guides.
But this is something Karl has always wanted.
To have the facility to repro any body panels for big cars (yes advert is 
for
~engine~ plant, do not interfere with dreams please)
- ---------
Well, ya might get the property for that amount, but the building and the 
rest would be substantially more. Quick figure for the dies for body panels? 
About 150 million for an entire car. This is generally 25 to 30 dies. You do 
the math..and no, I can't afford it! <grins>

Steve
1970 Cutlass S Hardtop
Garland, TX
ICQ# 108901, Use "Olds list" as Request for Authorization

Favorite motivational line, seen at a Renassaince Faire: "The beatings will 
continue until morale is up!"




_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 13:37:52 -0700 
From: andrewm@edify.com
Subject: RE: Snake oils and other engine voodoos

Thanks for everyone's responses.  Given the product's association with
Slick 50, crap, burned-up engines, and Mopar, I think I'll stay
away....

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of steve harris
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 3:39 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos


I have used the Restore engine treatment from AutoZone,  and it has
worked
well for me.  I have used it in my F*rd F150.  300 straight six with
130000
miles beat on hard 60 mph in 3rd gear roached out POS.  The snake oil
keeps
the valves from rattling so bad,  and improves low end power.  This is
a
time limited magic potion.   After midnight the motor turns into a
mopar
slant six!------AAAAAHHHHHHHHH----- THE WORDS MOPAR!!!  AND FORD IN
THE SAME
PARAGRAPH!!!!  JUST SHOOT ME NOW!!!!AND BE DONE WITH IT!!
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Andy Mikesell <andymikesell@mediaone.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 8:00 AM
Subject: Snake oils and other engine voodoos


> I was traveling through the airport this weekend and
> picked up a copy of Ch*vy Craft, ... er ... I mean,
> "Car Craft" and saw an ad for an oil additive that
> supposedly helps high mileage engines.
>
> The name was something like Resolve, or Risolve.  I
> don't have the exact name since I felt the mag wasn't
> really worth keeping.  The product claimed to "seal"
> the groves and scratched on the cylinder wall cause by
> many miles.  The main claimed benefit was increased
> compression and overall engine efficiency.
>
> Anyone have any experience with these "snake oils"?  Do
> they help, or do they cause other problems later like
> gumming up the oil pump, etc.
>
> - Andy
> --
> http://people.ne.mediaone.net/andymikesell/Delta88.htm
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 16:34:50 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stormy Weather..... and SOM   [long]

In a message dated 99-06-02 16:20:01 EDT, you write:

<< 	1) water infected ignition system quits producing spark
 	2) still rotating engine fills exhaust system with flammable air/fuel 
mixture
 	3) ignition starts producing spark again igniting fuel in exhaust
 	4) Karl hears loud "bang", SOM feels pain in muffler
 	5) later moisture shuts ignition down for 1-1/2 hour nap time >>

Karl willing to buy into that explanation.
Except that there was no ~hint~ of missing before BAM!
But will here concept of moisture inside cap.

For the late-starting engine, will accept the postulat of liquid fuel.

<< (Epilogue: God exists by two falls to a submission.)
I thought God fails to exist if his existence can be proven.  Maybe a rigged 
match? >>

Not likely, it was a clean figure "4" leg-lock.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 16:40:04 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy an Engine Plant?

In a message dated 99-06-02 16:22:59 EDT, you write:

<< Down to the basement I creep to ponder and resurrect >>

No! No! No!

We beleive the correct line is:

Niagra Falls!

Slowly I turn, step by step, inch by inch, I cast the 403, I notch the rod, I 
turn the crank!

SOM

&KA

((Sorry Greg, but with straight men like these, well..., I gotta go with it!))

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 13:47:35 -0700 
From: andrewm@edify.com
Subject: RE: Stormy Weather..... and SOM   [long]

<Snipage applies>


> T-storm going outside....
> Rain is furious....
> But raining harder, and dark, tough to see white lane stripes.....
> Very wet.....
> And noisy.....
> Inside Indiana now....
> A brief nap follows.
> What the....?!?

Midwest space-time portal?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 13:43:34 -0700 
From: "Mountney, Scott" <scott.mountney@attws.com>
Subject: INDY

I sent this, but I dont think it went through the first time. 

30 of 33 drivers at Indy had Oldsmopower under the hood, (from what I
understand, motors are custom built from Oldsmobile racing grade parts to
Indy specs) so odds were that the winner would have Oldsmopower.      
The Aurora engine has dominated IRL since its debut.   You got to check out
Oldsmobile's record in the IRL.   
Of course, we knew olds power kicked a*@ all along!

Dont think for a second I didn't send this to every ford and Chevy driver I
know    :)

Scott Mountney
72 supreme

http://speednet.starnews.com/speednet/irl/500/99_qualgrid.html
  
 
http://www.goracing.com/indy500/News/1053063176.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 16:43:46 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy an Engine Plant?

In a message dated 99-06-02 16:31:29 EDT, you write:

<< Lets make some more '74 Omegas! We can roll them right off the line with
 dual quad 455s and 4 speeds. Whooo hoooooo! I'm there fellas. >>

Hmmm.
Those would have to be non-AC AT cars with 13" rims to keep costs down.

MwaHahahahahahahah!

Or something!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 15:54:21 -0500 (EST)
From: hurst455@webtv.net (Corey Putnam)
Subject: Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy an Engine Plant?

- --WebTV-Mail-1573285187-240
Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit

  I was thinking more in the line of making a 910 cubic inch, 4
quadrajet, aluminum block, heads and intake  V-16 by putting two 455
together. I`ll run that department I guess.
   Sign me up, checks` in the mail.

Fit that in your Omega.  


- --WebTV-Mail-1573285187-240
Content-Description: signature
Content-Disposition: Inline
Content-Type: Text/HTML; Charset=US-ASCII
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7Bit

<!--<html>
<img src="http://members.tripod.com/~webtv8/peeguy.gif" align="left">
<img
src="http://www.geocities.com:80/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930/gifs/fordlogo.gif
"align="center">
<br>
<bgsound
src="http://www.geocities.com/Area51/Comet/7015/audio/breadfan.mid">
<html>-->
<br>
Corey Putnam
<br>
75 H/O W-30(down for awhile)
<br>
87 Regal w/Olds 455(Mama`s ride)
<br>
H/OCA #0915A
<br>
OCC #0208
<br>
OCA #031264
<br>
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930


- --WebTV-Mail-1573285187-240--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 16:58:36 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy an Engine Plant?

I'll make room for it.

Omega Man


At 03:54 PM 6/2/99 -0500, you wrote:
>  I was thinking more in the line of making a 910 cubic inch, 4 quadrajet,
>aluminum block, heads and intake  V-16 by putting two 455 together. I`ll
>run that department I guess.    Sign me up, checks` in the mail.  Fit that
>in your Omega.     
> Corey Putnam 
> 75 H/O W-30(down for awhile) 
> 87 Regal w/Olds 455(Mama`s ride) 
> H/OCA #0915A 
> OCC #0208 
> OCA #031264 
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930  

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 16:58:53 -0400
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: Olds for sale

This is an add from the Penny Power.  A weekly free classifieds newspaper
witha circulation of 62,628 in and around the Lehigh Valley area in PA.

Won't interest most people on this list, but pass it on to anyone you happen
to know who's "bounced" onto the list with such inquiries!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"1941 Olds 4-door sedan, runs, $1500.  Please call (610) 847-5850."
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

user Allentown PA as a reference point if you're not from PA.

See ya


Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 3.8 Calais
Bucks County, PA
mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 14:02:25 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stormy Weather..... and SOM [long]

>1) water infected ignition system quits producing spark
>2) still rotating engine fills exhaust system with flammable
>    air/fuel mixture
>3) ignition starts producing spark again igniting fuel in exhaust
>4) Karl hears loud "bang", SOM feels pain in muffler
>5) later moisture shuts ignition down for 1-1/2 hour nap time >>
>
>Karl willing to buy into that explanation.
>Except that there was no ~hint~ of missing before BAM!

I don't think you need more than a second or two to fill the exhaust system 
with unburnt fumes; you were doing highway speed, IIRC. I did this once 
myself, when the ol' D*dge started hesitating and bucking on the Edens 
Expressway. Yours truly had the boneheaded idea of wiggling the ignition 
key, thinking it was loose. Had the ignition off for less than a second, I 
swear, but turning it on again produced the biggest explosion I'd ever heard 
in a car.

I don't know that you'd notice a car with the mass of SOM slowing in that 
short a period of time, between the failure of the ignition system and its 
resumption, triggering the blast in the exhaust pipes. I also think it's 
possible that your ignition has been cutting in and out more often, but your 
distributor timing is such that the exhaust stream usually doesn't go bang, 
so you may not notice it.

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 15:07:14 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: 1965 400 4 bbl intake

> David Rench wrote:
> 
> My father and I were rummaging through his parts collection the other day
> looking for a BB cast iron Qjet intake for my 425 and ran across what I
> believe to be a 1965 425 4 barrel intake (the "square bore" variety).

From the FAQ under Intakes:

	1965 was the only year for the square bore (i.e. non-Q-Jet) intake 
manifold
for the 400/425 big blocks. In theory this would fit any square bore carb.  A
solution to run a square bore Holley on this manifold was to use an adapter
plate which can be found for about 25-30 bucks in most speed shops.  It does
exactly the job you're looking for, but get a few extra gaskets just in case
this more-complex-than-stock setup generates vacuum leaks. 

> The interesting thing is that he had 2, one red and one bronze.

under Engines:
	400's were bronze in color, most 425's and early 455's (1968, 1969) 
were red,
...
So that would fit.

Sorry, that's all I could figure out by looking at the FAQ ( and I know zilch
about older cars).  Someone else can probably fill in the gaps.
- -- 

Cliff "Not part of the solution, part of the precipitate" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 14:11 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: greasing poly bushings (was weekend fun)

Rock Man wrote:
<big snip>
>.......Everyone has talked about making sure to grease the 
>polyurethane bushings before assembly. My question is 
>this.....WHERE???? After very careful inspection of the bushings, I 
>would have to try to get the metal sleeve out and grease the area
>between the inner metal sleeve and the bushing and then try to get it 
>back in there. Is this what everyone was talking about? And if so, 
>HOW THE HECK DO YOU GET THAT SLEEVE OUT OF THERE?
_______________________________________________________

Sorry if I'm too late to be helpful on this thread, I was gone for a 
long weekend. Anyway, I replaced my lower control arm bushings with 
Energy Suspension poly ones a few weeks ago. On looking at the 
bushings I suddenly realised that the only place where the bushing 
material might make a difference (in squeaking) was the actual bushing 
to metal contact areas - i.e. the outside of the inner metal tube, and 
the inside of the outer metal shell. This seemed too weird to be 
right, but sure enough, the instructions that came with the bushings 
said exactly that. You use the same kind of tricks you used to push 
the bushings out of the control arm to instead push the inner metal 
tube out of the poly bushing, and then to push the poly bushing out of 
the outer shell. This was definitely the easiest part of the job for 
me - those poly bushings are a fairly soft press-fit into the metal 
shells, unlike the OEM rubber ones which are fused to the metal with a 
death-grip. Once the poly bushing is out of the metal shells, lube the 
inner and outer surfaces, then press the metal shells back in and 
around the poly. Before you install the arms back in the car, use more 
lube on the exposed ends of the poly bushings, where they contact the 
control arm mount brackets on the car's frame.

By the way, I discovered the hard way that ordinary soap, water, 
hand-cleaner, etc, all fail miserably at getting silicone grease off 
your hands!  I'd suggest using some disposable latex gloves on your 
hands before you apply the silicone grease, or else be prepared to 
have sticky/greasy feeling hands for a couple of days! Don't shake 
hands with anyone who matters in that time....

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 15:23:31 -0500 (CDT)
From: Lori <lori@advancenet.net>
Subject: New Auto & Other Olds ?'s 

Before you go driving another Olds...  Go to www.startsomething.com and
sign up to get a free $50 debit card for test driving any unused 98-99
Olds... I'm going to try to talk my Mom into a new Intrigue, maybe, if I
like it, that is. (Anyway, you might as well get the free stuff!)

Some other Olds questions I've been saving up...

1. I have a 92 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertable. About 3 nights ago, I was
sedately driving on the interstate (sedately = somewhere less than 75) at
about 2am when a little deer ran across from the opposite lane of traffic.
(lucky deer) I had to swerve big time to miss it, and my car creaked badly
for the next day or so. Does anyone know anything about the body integrity
of the Cutlass convertables? My car also popped 2 windshields this winter
in -5 F weather. I don't think it has ever been seriously wrecked, and I
expect some extra flex because its a convertable, but I don't think it
should be as bad as it is. Opinions?

2. My Mom's '91 Olds 98 has 12 buttons on the dash to change the info in
the little readout display behind the steering column. Two have been
pushed in and some of the others have cracks. Anyone ever replaced these,
or found a source for them other than the dealer... It's really bothering
me to have to pay the big money I know the dealer will charge for
something that is just cosmetic.

3. Oldsmobile's with radio controls on the middle of the steering wheel:
Anyone ever upgrade the head unit of the stereos and keep these buttons
working? I looked through a 92 Trofeo manual and didn't really find
anything (or understand much for that matter). I'm wanting to have a
friend (non professional) put in a better system but I really love those
buttons. 

4. FS: troublesome little 1992 Cutlass Calais HO Quad4, manual
transmission, 11x,xxx miles. Very fast. Pictures available at
http://www.advancenet.net/~lori/olds/ Good looking, engine runs very well. 
Nice driver.

Lori
lori@advancenet.net
Olds pictures at: http://www.angelfire.com/il/loricar/o.html (92 Cutlass
Supreme) and http://www.angelfire.com/il/loricar/t.html (92 Trofeo) 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 16:33:24 -0500 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas.Martin@motorola.com>
Subject: 7.5 in 10 Bolt

I met someone who has a 1979/80 posi carrier and 2.73 gears.  Price, make
offer.  

What is a good price for this rear?  No housing, just the spinning parts, no
axles either.  

I want to transplant into my 85 Cutlass to replace my 2.14's.  

Anything I need to lookout for?  Anything hard about setting this rear end
up with used gears if they are in good shape?  What parts will I need?
Install kit?


Thanks!
Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 14:25 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: greasing bushings (was weekend fun)

steve harris wrote:

>Do not remove the Bushing from the shell!!!!!.   The grease is for 
>the metal sleave to help insert it and for the ends of the bushings.
_______________________________________

The instructions that came with my Energy Suspension poly bushings 
specifically said that the bushings should be removed from the inner 
and outer metal shells and all surfaces of the actual poly bushing 
greased. If you think about it, squeaking occurs because of motion 
between the poly and the metal, so this makes perfect sense. (Rubber 
bushings are bonded to the metal and don't slip/squeak against it, but 
poly bushings are just pressed into the metal shells and can slip and 
squeak against the metal surfaces they contact).

By the way, I've been riding on poly lower control arm bushings for 
about a month, and my car squeaks *less* than it did before I replaced 
the bushings. I still have to replace the upper arm bushings (I'm 
hoping to convert to taller spindles with 12" brakes, so I'm waiting 
on the upper arms until I have all the parts for the conversion 
together) and I believe most of the squeaks from my car are coming 
from those worn out rubber upper arm bushings.

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 14:42:07 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: New Auto & Other Olds ?'s

>2. My Mom's '91 Olds 98 has 12 buttons on the dash to change
>the info in the little readout display behind the steering
>column. Two have been pushed in and some of the others have
>cracks. Anyone ever replaced these, or found a source for them
>other than the dealer...

Only the junkyard. Now's the time that a lot of '91s are starting to migrate 
to the junkyard, and those control panels will be plentiful for a while, so 
you can cherry-pick the best one, and get some experience in dismantling the 
dash without breaking things, before venturing into your own dashboard. The 
service manual helps.

>3. Oldsmobile's with radio controls on the middle of the
>steering wheel: Anyone ever upgrade the head unit of the
>stereos and keep these buttons working? I looked through a
>92 Trofeo manual and didn't really find anything (or
>understand much for that matter). I'm wanting to have a
>friend (non professional) put in a better system but I really
>love those buttons.

I don't know offhand, but some large aftermarket stereo outfit like 
Crutchfield (see http://www.crutchfield.com) may be able to answer that.

The short answer is that unless the "better system" specifically says it 
will interface with the GM steering wheel controls, assume that it won't. I 
can tell you from browsing my '93 P*ntiac SSEi manual that the steering 
wheel controls are a plug-in interface to the stereo. It's a simple, single 
circuit where each button on the wheel is a resistor of a different value. 
Push a button and the resistor drops the voltage (or current, or something 
:-) in the circuit. The stereo detects that drop, and uses the amount of the 
drop to figure out which button you pressed, and responds appropriately 
(e.g. Volume Up, Volume Down, Tuning Preset, etc.).

I'd think that some aftermarket company is making compatible stereos by now; 
I just don't know of any specifics.

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 17:41:22 EDT
From: Knightvd@aol.com
Subject: Re: Stormy Weather..... and SOM   [long]

In a message dated 6/2/99 1:09:11 PM Central Daylight Time, KarlAunan@aol.com 
writes:

<< On muffler, no evidence of an impact with anything is visible.
 
 Can a backfire do that to a muffler?
 
 What does a backfire feel like from the driver's seat?
 
 Can anyone suggest what may really have happened?
 
 Anyone? >>

Karl,

Sounds like a great trip.  I don't think there is any doubt that the muffler 
ballooned from a backfire.  You must have gotten your ignition wet or 
something.  Maybe you should be a screenwriter.

Vince Knight 
71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 17:13:32 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: 160 deg VS. 180 deg

Well as far as HP #'s are concerned the motor in the 170-185* range made
the most power. I even tried this with my motor. The HP #'s start to drop
off after 190*. 
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Ed Binnix <comid@jellico.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 160 deg VS. 180 deg
> Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 11:06 AM
> 
> I read somewhere that running the engine too cool greatly accelerated
engine
> wear, especially cylinder wear. This is to to lack of adequate heat
> expansion that occurs at higher temperatures. 160 degrees was considered
(by
> the publication in question) to be too cool. The conclusion of the
article
> was that, for most cars, a 180 is a happy medium. Some later models would
> need a 192+ thermostat. Since my car is not at all "late model," I didn't
> much pay attention to the reasons.
> 
> Seems to me, that you could set up an engine with loose tolerances that
> would benefit from running cool. Please remember, to a point, heat is a
good
> thing. Detroit has had the technology for decades to make a motor run
much
> cooler than even 160. They don't use it. Why? Heat good! Also, I don't
> believe a car has ever come off the assembly line with 160 degree
> thermostat. Why? Heat good! Sure, you want to keep a race car as cool as
> possible, but race cars generally get torn down once a year (AT LEAST).
> 
> Help! I'm talking and I can't shut up!!!
> 
> Ed
> (obviously a long-winded preacher)
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> >I've gotta agree with Omega Man.  I just replaced my OEM fan
> >clutch and installed a 160 in my 409 (403 @ 30 over) and it runs
> >exactly at 160 no matter what.  This is a freshly rebuilt engine with
> >about 500 miles on it, too. With the original 180 the temp would
> >creep up to ~200 in traffic.   My question is: is 160 deg as an
> >operating temo too cool for some reason?
> >
> >Ian
> >82 Toronado with 1977 403 windowed-web ;) Olds power [non CCC
> >750 cfm Q-jet and vacuum advance HEI].
> >
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 17:24:50 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos

As far as Duralube goes I honestly believe it can not hurt a motor in any
way. People have put duralube in radiators and the car ran cooler. Duralube
has been even tested by Mondello and Mondello claims reduced bearing and
cylinder wall wear with it. Synthetic oil does work better than
conventional oil. That is a fact. If you don't believe that then go crawl
back under the rock you came from. As far as Duralube it is a "synthetic"
oil "additive" that probably does protect the engine parts. 

Also as far as new polishes coming out into the market. Some, if not most,
are gimmicks. There are new waxes that work 1000 times better than old
school technology. Technology has come a long way after the past years.
Waxes are better than they were 10 years ago. The same goes with oil in the
70's. Back then the conventional oil could not keep up with todays
conventional oil. 
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos
> Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 12:43 PM
> 
> rislone has been around for a long time it is what is called a top
cylinder
> lube restore makes the claim that it rejuvinates seals, seals cylinder
> compression loss etc. it is advertised in magazines
> a lot and was originally marketed by J.C.Whitney years and years ago then
it
> hit the open market and killed a lot of engines I would set it up on the
> wall of shame with slick 50, prolong, duralube, and the list goes on cant
> bring myself to use this stuff but somebody does because they keep making
it
> and super car polishes......KK

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 18:18:44 -0400
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: Re: cam ID 

Dave

        This is one of their muscle car duplicate cams. It is the same as the
68-70 W-30 stick cam with .475 lift and 328 degrees of advertised duration.
NASTY!

Jim Chermack
C&M Classic Parts


At 09:49 AM 6/2/1999 , you wrote:
>Once again, 
>
>I need your h*lp ID'ing a cam.  It was in a Crane box, and had the number
>"569" stamped on the distributor end.  Cranecams.com web site does not seem
>to have any numbers that match up to the one on the cam.  The cam seems to
>have very business-like lumps on it.
>
>Any ideas?
>
>
>Thanks!
>
>
>Dave (home for wayward cams) Worthington
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 17:27:08 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: posi question

Well if the car you are getting this for is a daily driving economical
machine. Then an open rear is OK. If this is for a 455 monster and you are
looking for some performance. Don't get the open rear end. I have yet to
see a race car with an open rear end.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: KarlAunan@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: posi question
> Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 1:30 PM
> 
> In a message dated 99-06-02 02:10:43 EDT, you write:
> 
> << This screamed ONE LEGGER to me, except that doesn't the passenger tire
spin
>  before the left on a one legger? >>
> 
> That's right.
> Tires were rotated.
> And what exactly is wrong with an open 3.08:1 ??
> 
> Nothing much wrong with SOM's open 2.93:1.
> 
> SOM
> 
> &KA

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 15:15 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: 160 deg vs 180 deg thermostat

Ed Binnix wrote:

>I read somewhere that running the engine too cool greatly accelerated 
>engine wear, especially cylinder wear. This is to to lack of adequate 
>heat expansion that occurs at higher temperatures. 
_________________________________________________

I read the same thing, I think it was in an old auto book called "Auto 
Mechanics" by Stockell or Stockwell or something similar. But the 
reason for the high rate of wear, I believe, has to do with the fact 
that more soot is formed when the hot combustion flames meet cold 
cylinder walls, and soot acts like mild abrasive inside the engine, 
sandpapering away at the cylinder bores.

On a related note, engines running on CNG are supposed to experience 
much slower cylinder bore wear than gasoline-fueled engines, and one 
of the reasons for this is that burning CNG creates much less soot.

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 17:40:27 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: New Auto & Other Olds ?'s 

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_01BEAD1F.00302820
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Well what I have heard from Olds mechanics who work at GM dealerships is
that the convertible fro that body style had some problems. That bodystyle
was not designed as a convertible but as a hardtop. So the hardtop version
was made to a convertible. This brought in some structural problems. I have
heard of leaky tops and window alignment problems. The car not being a full
frame car has more of a stress on the body. If I had a convetible from
92-96 I would not frive in the winter time. The cold makes the metal flex
and probably could of caused the windshield to crack. 

Also if you have the 3.4L DOHC version I would replace the RUBBER camshaft
belt around 60,000 miles. Sure you could go to 70 or 80 thousand but if it
breaks you are dead in the water. Not to mention the extra $$ it will cost
for a tow and repair bill to clean up the rubber out of the motor. Also
when they do break it is MUCH HARDER to get the 4 cams timmed in right. You
guys with the 1 cam thought it was hard to set the cam correctly. Try doing
it with four cams at the same time!!.
If you replace it before it breaks then the mechanic can mark and see where
the cams are set and put the new belt on without throwing off the timing
marks. 

In my 94 I have 60K and will replace the belt probably tomorrow. This will
be a 2 day, in garage, project. Make sure you buy REAL GM parts also. There
are also a few other parts that need to be replace also. I believe 1 is the
tensioner and the other 2 I can't think of now.  
Pettrix@prodigy.net

> 1. I have a 92 Olds Cutlass Supreme Convertable. About 3 nights ago, I
was
> sedately driving on the interstate (sedately = somewhere less than 75) at
> about 2am when a little deer ran across from the opposite lane of
traffic.
> (lucky deer) I had to swerve big time to miss it, and my car creaked
badly
> for the next day or so. Does anyone know anything about the body
integrity
> of the Cutlass convertables? My car also popped 2 windshields this winter
> in -5 F weather. I don't think it has ever been seriously wrecked, and I
> expect some extra flex because its a convertable, but I don't think it
> should be as bad as it is. Opinions?
> 
> 
- ------=_NextPart_000_01BEAD1F.00302820
Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head></head><BODY bgcolor=3D"#FFFFFF"><p><font size=3D2 =
color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Arial">Well what I have heard from Olds =
mechanics who work at GM dealerships is that the convertible fro that =
body style had some problems. That bodystyle was not designed as a =
convertible but as a hardtop. So the hardtop version was made to a =
convertible. This brought in some structural problems. I have heard of =
leaky tops and window alignment problems. The car not being a full frame =
car has more of a stress on the body. If I had a convetible from 92-96 I =
would not frive in the winter time. The cold makes the metal flex and =
probably could of caused the windshield to crack. <br><br>Also if you =
have the 3.4L DOHC version I would replace the RUBBER camshaft belt =
around 60,000 miles. Sure you could go to 70 or 80 thousand but if it =
breaks you are dead in the water. Not to mention the extra $$ it will =
cost for a tow and repair bill to clean up the rubber out of the motor. =
Also when they do break it is MUCH HARDER to get the 4 cams timmed in =
right. <i>You guys with the 1 cam thought it was hard to set the cam =
correctly. Try doing it with four cams at the same time!!.<br></i>If you =
replace it before it breaks then the mechanic can mark and see where the =
cams are set and put the new belt on without throwing off the timing =
marks. <br><br>In my 94 I have 60K and will replace the belt probably =
tomorrow. This will be a 2 day, in garage, project. Make sure you buy =
REAL GM parts also. There are also a few other parts that need to be =
replace also. I believe 1 is the tensioner and the other 2 I can't think =
of now. &nbsp;<br><font =
color=3D"#0000FF"><u>Pettrix@prodigy.net</u><font =
color=3D"#000000"><br><br>&gt; 1. I have a 92 Olds Cutlass Supreme =
Convertable. About 3 nights ago, I was<br>&gt; sedately driving on the =
interstate (sedately =3D somewhere less than 75) at<br>&gt; about 2am =
when a little deer ran across from the opposite lane of traffic.<br>&gt; =
(lucky deer) I had to swerve big time to miss it, and my car creaked =
badly<br>&gt; for the next day or so. Does anyone know anything about =
the body integrity<br>&gt; of the Cutlass convertables? My car also =
popped 2 windshields this winter<br>&gt; in -5 F weather. I don't think =
it has ever been seriously wrecked, and I<br>&gt; expect some extra flex =
because its a convertable, but I don't think it<br>&gt; should be as bad =
as it is. Opinions?<br>&gt; <br>&gt; </p>
</font></font></font></body></html>
- ------=_NextPart_000_01BEAD1F.00302820--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 15:37 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: What's wrong with 2.93 gears (was posi question)

SOM and Karl Aunan wrote:
<snipped>
>And what exactly is wrong with an open 3.08:1 ??
>Nothing much wrong with SOM's open 2.93:1.
_____________________________________________

A couple of weekends ago I was manually adjusting the "automatic 
adjusters" in the rear drum brakes on my Supreme (has anyone *ever* 
found these things actually work, by the way? I've owned 3 Mopars, two 
Oldsmobiles, 1 Mitsubishi, and the adjusters didn't work on ANY of 
them. I think we're all being lied to, just like what they told us 
about Santa Claus and the Easter Bunny) and since I had one rear tire 
off the ground, I decided to measure the rearend ratio; two chalk 
marks and considerable tire-turning later, I found that I had a 2.73:1 
rear. Deep sigh. I had been led to believe that all 1972 Supremes had 
the 3.08:1 rearend by my Standard Catalog of American Cars, but either 
the book is wrong or the rear in my car is not the original.

At least SOM has a big-block with lots of torque to help cope with 
those 2.93:1 gears. My poor Roger has to make do with a 
low-compression stock 1972 350 engine for now. Oh well, at least it'll 
improve my freeway mileage (which incidentally is within 2mpg of what 
I used to get from that POS Mitsubishi with its tiny 1.6 litre 
4-banger).

I guess it's time to start dreaming about a 200R4 and some nice deep 
rear-gears to go with it. I drive 40 miles round trip to work in Roger 
every day, so swapping in 4.1:1 gears without a 4-speed transmission 
isn't really an option.

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme ("Roger")
'73 RoadRunner ("Rex")

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 17:44:33 -0500
From: "Walker" <pwalker@megavision.com>
Subject: F/S 66 98 tilt/telescope column@wheel and stuff

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01BEAD1F.92B9E3C0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Just pulled this piece out of the old 66 98 parts car. It is complete =
with nuetral safety and wierd turn signal switch.=20
It is darker medium blue with two very narrow cracks, one at the top, =
the other at the bottom. I would like 150 plus
shipping, but I am very open to offers.
   Also have 330 auto crank,complete with balancer and flywheel, needs =
turned.80+ shipping.
   #4 small block heads complete with rockers and push rods.Need to be =
cleaned,50 +shipping
   Complete 66 425 engine,ran but needs rebuilt,350
Parts are located in north centra Nebraska.
=20
Thanks,

Email at pwalker@megavision.com


- ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01BEAD1F.92B9E3C0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Just pulled this piece out of the =
old 66 98=20
parts car. It is complete with nuetral safety and wierd turn signal =
switch.=20
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>It is darker medium blue with two =
very narrow=20
cracks, one at the top, the other at the bottom. I would like 150=20
plus</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>shipping, but I am very open to=20
offers.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; Also have 330 auto =
crank,complete=20
with balancer and flywheel, needs turned.80+ shipping.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; #4 small block heads =
complete with=20
rockers and push rods.Need to be cleaned,50 +shipping</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; Complete 66 425 =
engine,ran but=20
needs rebuilt,350</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Parts are located in north centra=20
Nebraska.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thanks,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" size=3D2>Email at <A=20
href=3D"mailto:pwalker@megavision.com">pwalker@megavision.com</A></FONT><=
/DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 face=3D"" =
size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_001D_01BEAD1F.92B9E3C0--

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 15:50 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: backfires and shocks (was Stormy Weather and SOM)

Cliff Simpson wrote:
<big snip>
>BTW: same brother showed me how to take an ignition condenser and 
>charge it up.  Your supposed to toss it into someone else's car at a 
>light or when passing them and when they go digging around to find it 
>they discharge it. This is supposed to be very funny but I never 
>tried it.
_____________________________________________

And I'd suggest not trying it, either!  Or you may find to your dismay 
that the person who picked it up has a heart condition and his 
passenger is a high-powered lawyer.....

Seriously, fairly small electrical shocks can be fatal if the 
recipient has a weak heart or other medical condition.

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 17:24:59 -0600
From: "Jeff Newman" <newsance@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: posi question

Colorado man... ME FIRST!!! I figure if the body is as wasted as I think, it
will go nicely into my buick...
- -----Original Message-----
From: Uncle Pete <pteubel@mediaone.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 4:55 AM
Subject: Re: posi question


>WHERE is this car?  I may be interested in the engine alone.
>
>- Pete
>
>At 12:18 AM 6/2/99 -0600, you wrote:
>>Saw a '78 Trans Am in the paper for $900. "403, many aftermarket parts"
>>Figured I would take a look.
>>
>>The "many aftermarket parts" was a wee understatement.
>>
>>This was one hopped up 403. One helluva nasty idle...
>>
>>By far the fastest car I have ever driven or ridden in. No, I have never
>>been in a 70 442 w-30, but...
>>
>>Launching with anything over 1/4 throttle would spin the tires like you
>>wouldn't belive. Likewise if you floor it at anything under 35 mph.
>>
>>So heres the question. The seller claims it has a 3.08 posi in it.
However,
>>the drivers side rear tire is very close to bald, while the other seems to
>>have half its tread on it.
>>
>>This screamed ONE LEGGER to me, except that doesn't the passenger tire
spin
>>before the left on a one legger?
>>
>>________________________________________________________
>>NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet.  Shouldn't you?
>>Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
>>http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
>
>

________________________________________________________
NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet.  Shouldn't you?
Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 17:27:04 -0600
From: "Jeff Newman" <newsance@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: posi question

>More likely scenario... Right rear goes bald, swapped with left rear,
>continue spinning right rear!  I'd suspect a one legger.
>
>

I considered this, but then I remembered that the right rear was DEFINITELY
spinning, as I tore a cord out of the tire. Proceeded to whack the wheelwell
every single revolution.

So one leggers spin the passenger rear, eh?

________________________________________________________
NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet.  Shouldn't you?
Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 18:24:12 -0500
From: "Eckie Prater" <Eckie@Prater.com>
Subject: Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos

List,
I do not normally use additives.
Personal experience with Duralube.
I own one of the last air-cooled VW vans.
The Vanagon list discussed noisy valves and the air cooled engine.
Duralube was suggested.
I put Duralube in with an oil change.
The result was quieter startups with less valve clatter.
No other changes were noted.
I have since changed the oil and did not reinstall new Duralube.  
Quieter startups still continue.
We will see.  Test still in progress.

Eckie 'All the usual disclaimers' Prater
75 Olds 88 Vert
73 Buick Electra 225
73 Catalina Safari Wagon
www.Eckie.Prater.Com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 18:30:13 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos

>There is a product called Rislone that I have used.  It did help my
>compression.  I had piston rings that were sticking and this freed
>them up.

Products like Rislone and Marvel Mystery Oil have been around for
quite a long time and are very useful in certain instances.  Of course
they don't promise to fix spun bearings, heal broken bolts, or patch
holes in the side of the block either.  In all reality Rislone will work
fine
to unstick rings, but a quart of ATF will do the same thing.  It'll get the
inside of the motor nice and clean, too.  It all boils down to the fact that
in certain situations you can solve your problems with the right additive
but I doubt there will ever be a "engine rebuild in a can" that really
works.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 17:40:09 -0600
From: "Jeff Newman" <newsance@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: posi question

Nothing is that wrong with a one legger, except that the guy said it was
posi, and I want to make sure, or guilt him into a lower price.
- -----Original Message-----
From: KarlAunan@aol.com <KarlAunan@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 12:33 PM
Subject: Re: posi question


>In a message dated 99-06-02 02:10:43 EDT, you write:
>
><< This screamed ONE LEGGER to me, except that doesn't the passenger tire
spin
> before the left on a one legger? >>
>
>That's right.
>Tires were rotated.
>And what exactly is wrong with an open 3.08:1 ??
>
>Nothing much wrong with SOM's open 2.93:1.
>
>SOM
>
>&KA
>

________________________________________________________
NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet.  Shouldn't you?
Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 18:32:15 -0500
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
Subject: Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos

Well excuse me pete I didnt think I would be stepping on anyones toes by
merely mentioning duralube I dont crawl under rocks I use all synthetic
lubricants ,and if I decide to run my engine without oil or coolant I will
try duralube, I am not saying that it doesnt work I am just saying that if
it sounds too good to be true it probably is I have seen the displays at
many car shows and so on and it doesnt impress me if it works so good  then
there is no more need for engine oil I think it was castrol who had their
syntec add with the engines that were just filled and drained then ran until
all locked up save one the syntec engine, As I have stated here many times I
use synthetics exclusively and I like to take apart an engine that looks as
good at 100,000 miles as it did with no miles as for the waxes I like
Carnauba from maguires I dont care for gimmicky car polishes either, since
most are merely silicone paste. you dont have to come off with this
condescending attitude I merely stated my opinion you may state yours but
dont be insulting about it.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 5:24 PM
Subject: Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos


> As far as Duralube goes I honestly believe it can not hurt a motor in any
> way. People have put duralube in radiators and the car ran cooler.
Duralube
> has been even tested by Mondello and Mondello claims reduced bearing and
> cylinder wall wear with it. Synthetic oil does work better than
> conventional oil. That is a fact. If you don't believe that then go crawl
> back under the rock you came from. As far as Duralube it is a "synthetic"
> oil "additive" that probably does protect the engine parts.
>
> Also as far as new polishes coming out into the market. Some, if not most,
> are gimmicks. There are new waxes that work 1000 times better than old
> school technology. Technology has come a long way after the past years.
> Waxes are better than they were 10 years ago. The same goes with oil in
the
> 70's. Back then the conventional oil could not keep up with todays
> conventional oil.
> Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
> ----------
> > From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos
> > Date: Wednesday, June 02, 1999 12:43 PM
> >
> > rislone has been around for a long time it is what is called a top
> cylinder
> > lube restore makes the claim that it rejuvinates seals, seals cylinder
> > compression loss etc. it is advertised in magazines
> > a lot and was originally marketed by J.C.Whitney years and years ago
then
> it
> > hit the open market and killed a lot of engines I would set it up on the
> > wall of shame with slick 50, prolong, duralube, and the list goes on
cant
> > bring myself to use this stuff but somebody does because they keep
making
> it
> > and super car polishes......KK
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 19:35:01 EDT
From: GregA80@aol.com
Subject: ATF?

Can I put ATF in a running engine?  Is that what I just read that someone 
wrote?

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 2 Jun 1999 18:37:41 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Raising engine

>Nope.....I mean for good. I'm not worried about
>installation because I will be putting the engine in
>and getting the headers set up all at the same time.
>But, as the engine use to sit, I was not able to get
>my hand between the frame and the stock exhaust
>manifold. The headers are quite a bit wider which
>leads me to believe that I am going to have to raise
>the engine somehow. Either that or cut the headers
>apart and wrap em around the frame!


Don't get so bent out of shape.  You'll be amazed how
much room there is once those manifolds are out of the
way.  As long as the motor mounts aren't bent it'll fit fine.
I've put headers on more cars than I can count and my 
Olds was about the easiest.  If it's a bit tight, pull the 
header out and put a gradual dimple in the tube with a 
ball peen hammer.  It also helps if you meditate first!

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 02 Jun 1999 18:43:11 -0500
From: Gail Bedosky <gailmedic@home.com>
Subject: Hello!

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
- --------------78B26E2C4D3CDEA69DD92737
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hi!

Glad we were able to find other Oldsmobile enthusiasts. We actually got
the link from a list that my husband belongs to for 9C1 enthusiasts [9C1
is GM's RPO code for their Caprice police line]. We have a 1972 Olds
Cutlass 'S' [pic attached] that we are busy trying to refurbish.

One thing that has confused us though, is the hood [pic #2]. We've seen
similar hoods on 442's, but don't know if we have an anomoly, or the
442's that we've seen have the anomoly. Can anyone tell us a bit about
the hood?

Thanks in advance. Look forward to reading everyone's posts.

All the best,

Gail
- --------------78B26E2C4D3CDEA69DD92737
Content-Type: image/gif;
 name="Cutlass1.1P.gif"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: base64
Content-Disposition: inline;
 filename="Cutlass1.1P.gif"


- --------------78B26E2C4D3CDEA69DD92737--

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1993
*********************************

