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To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1970


oldsmobile-digest       Thursday, May 20 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1970



RE: Plate Stickers
difference in carbs thanks
Re: Rocker Arm shims - Repeat
Robin Orsino
RE: 67 442 carb needed
Re: Apology for Non-Olds==>Microsoft (ENOUGH)
Re: To wax or not to wax?
Re: another Dodge acronym (was: car acronyms)
Re: Ball Joint Time? Opinons, pls
Re: Ball Joint Time?  Opinions, pls
Re: Apology for Non-Olds==>Microsoft (LAST WORDS)
Re: Apology for Non-Olds==>Microsoft (LAST WORDS)
Re: To wax or not to wax?
Re: Apology for Non-Olds==>Microsoft (LAST WORDS)
Re: Plate Stickers and a new question
Re: Non-Olds===>Microsoft??
Re: Rocker Arm shims - Repeat
Re: Going to the Track first time, pointers needed
Re: Power Tour
Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!
Re: To wax or not to wax?
Re: To wax or not to wax?
Re: Plate Stickers
Re: Non-Olds===>Microsoft??
Re: difference in carbs thanks
Re: To wax or not to wax?
Oldsmobile Car Watch
Re: To wax or not to wax?
Re: To wax or not to wax?
Re: adjusting rally pac tach
RE: Going to the Track first time, pointers needed
RE: Going to the Track first time, pointers needed
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Re: To wax or not to wax?
Re: Going to the Track first time, pointers needed
Re: To wax or not to wax?
emission decal
UNBOUNCE: 1968 442 head
Re: Ball Joint Time( A LA John Carri)
UNBOUNCE: 1964 Olds Dynamic 88 (for sale)
UNBOUNCE: 1998 Silhouette plastic front end vibration
Re: UNBOUNCE: 1968 442 head
ADMIN: Clueless, The Movie
UNBOUNCE: Oldsmobile Car Watch
UNBOUNCE: '72 H/O Emblems
Re: another Dodge acronym (was: car acronyms)
Back In Town -- Thanks Chris Witt
Re: Plate Stickers and a new question
ICQ and Lila Update
Re: UNBOUNCE: Oldsmobile Car Watch
600 miles and done
Re: 600 miles and done
sorry,  but I am confused?email bounce?
Re: [Fwd: ICQ]
Rally
Re: UNBOUNCE: 1964 Olds Dynamic 88 (for sale)
Kuettner Olds Show Saturday.
Re: Ball Joint Time? Opinons, pls

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 14:36:40 -0500
From: "Johnson, Samuel" <SJohnso6@allstate.com>
Subject: RE: Plate Stickers

You here we have about 50 states and each one charges a state fee to drive
your car. and that fee varies from state to state.  

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Meyer, Erich [SMTP:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca]
> Sent:	Thursday, May 20, 1999 2:25 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca; EMeyer@mdsctl.com
> Subject:	RE: Plate Stickers
> 
> 		Here in Canada you pay for the sticker $80-+ (validation
> with the year and month it's valid to) for a car per year. What is this
> State sticker that you are talking about?
> 
> 
> 		Erich 84 H/O
> 
> 
> 		-----Original Message-----
> 		From:	David Popadic [mailto:davepop@execpc.com]
> 		Sent:	Thursday, May 20, 1999 2:23 PM
> 		To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> 		Subject:	Re: Plate Stickers
> 
> 		Wisconsin ($45) - Collector Special Plates, different than
> Collector Plates
> 		(blue ones) (as of yeterday!)
> 
> 		----- Original Message -----
> 		From: Johnson, Samuel <SJohnso6@allstate.com>
> 		To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> 		Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 1:16 PM
> 		Subject: Plate Stickers
> 
> 
> 		> Well it seems that the plate sticker the state of IL will
> be $78. The
> 		price
> 		> use to be 48.  I was wondering if anybody out there pays
> more or less for
> 		> there state plate sticker.
> 		>
> 		>
> 		> Sam Johnson
> 		> 71Cutlass455
> 		> 95 Thunderbird
> 		>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:43:05 -0400
From: "Mike McLeod" <mikemcleod@msn.com>
Subject: difference in carbs thanks

Thanks Karl and Dude for your responses. Right now I have a 70 442 carb on,
and I also have a 72 442 carb. I want to get one of the carbs rebuilt, cause
I don't feel like the one I have on now is kicking in right(especially at
top end). So if I get one of them rebuilt, I would like to tell the person
doing it what I want the carb to be like(or at least try). Hopefully I will
find someone very knowledgeable and he will already know how to do it :-).
Thanks again


Michael McLeod
70 W-30
97 Aurora

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:48:25 EDT
From: Knightvd@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rocker Arm shims - Repeat

In a message dated 5/20/99 1:55:00 PM Central Daylight Time, 
drboyd@srpnet.com writes:

<< Shimming rocker arms:  Good or bad?  Anybody done it?  Does it hold up OK?
 I'm getting conflicting stories from two both supposedly reputable
 mecahnics...
 
 Thanks!
 
 Don Boyd
 76 Cutlass 455 Hurst T-Tops
 Factory Orange wheels >>

Don,

I had my "J" heads milled a 1/16.  In order to correct the valvetrain 
geometry I shimmed the rocker studs.  I can't remember what sized shims I 
used, its been a while.  I did the trig. and it made sense at the time.  The 
motor runs good after two years, there is no valve noise and thus I think I 
got it right.    If you want me to re-visit it please email me offline and I 
will try to jog my memory.

PS what color is the rest of the car?  

Vince Knight
71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:45:53 -0400
From: "Mike McLeod" <mikemcleod@msn.com>
Subject: Robin Orsino

I am sorry if you have been getting my mail. I checked my address and it was
correct. Then I copied an address from an original subject message and put
in the new email address. Hope that works.

Michael McLeod

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 14:53:43 -0500
From: "Walker" <pwalker@megavision.com>
Subject: RE: 67 442 carb needed

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Karl,

This carb came off  of a 66 425. Wether it was the original,Idont know.
Could somebody tell me what it is off of?

John

- ------=_NextPart_000_0061_01BEA2D0.8E05E1C0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
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<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type><!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 =
HTML//EN">
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
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<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Karl,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>This carb came off&nbsp; of a 66 =
425. Wether it=20
was the original,Idont know.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Co</FONT><FONT color=3D#000000 =
size=3D2>uld somebody=20
tell me what it is off of?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>John</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0061_01BEA2D0.8E05E1C0--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 13:00:38 -0700
From: BC <beastmaster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Apology for Non-Olds==>Microsoft (ENOUGH)

Apology accepted Uncle Pete and I too apoloagize to you and the rest on this 
fine
Olds List. This will never happen again, at least from me, I won't promise for
anybody else though.
Regards,
Bruce Camilli
70 Delta88 Conv
75 Delta88 Royale Conv
79 Delta88 Royale Hardtop

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 15:03:00 -0500
From: "Hitson, Roger" <HITSOR@mail.dmh.state.mo.us>
Subject: Re: To wax or not to wax?

I have had old black cars & old red cars & good quality glaze didn't harm
either.
.02

roger
 ----------
From: David Popadic
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: To wax or not to wax?
Date: Thursday, May 20, 1999 2:37PM

A new twist to the subject:

I have a paint job that was done in 92, it looks pretty good, it's Black.
My friends advises not to use the hand glaze because of the age of the
paint.  He thinks it might do more harm than good?

Any ideas (or comments) on this?

 ----- Original Message -----
From: Drew Senko <dsenko@UU.NET>
To: olds <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 11:17 AM
Subject: Re: To wax or not to wax?


> > On vehicles that are not driven on a daily basis in rain or snow, is it
> > better to not wax the car or to use hand glaze? Someone told me that wax
> > will leave swirl marks in the paint and that with continued waxing the
car
> > will look worse because the wax will compound itself. They said to use a
> > hand glaze such as 3M Imperial Hand Glaze which contains no wax or
> > silicone. The hand glaze also protects the clear by leaving a layer of
> > glaze that does not build up as wax does.
> >
> > Is this true?
> >
> > Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
>
> Peter,
>
> IMHO, this info in incorrect.  There's a whole slew of products out
> there for the surface of your car, and it's sometimes difficult to
> know what the differences are.
>
> Wax is applied as a protective layer over the clean painted surface.
> Wax is not the product that makes your paint shine and look good.
>
> Polishes and glazes "clean" the paint (after you've washed and dried
> the car) in order to prepare it for waxing.
>
> After washing and drying your car, you should examine the condition of
> the paint.  Does it feel smooth to the touch?  If it has a decent wax
> coating on it, then it should feel smooth.  Does the water bead on it?
> again, this is a sign that it has a good coat of wax on it.  If not,
> then you should consider applying a layer of wax.
>
> But before you do that, look closely at the paint.  Are there hairline
> scratches or swirlmarks?  If so, then you want to address these
> problems *before* you wax the car.  This is where glazes and polishes
> come into play.  A glaze is typically a very mildly abrasive product
> that when used properly should help remove the swirlmarks and light
> scratches.  If the scratches are deep, then it is beyond the
> ability of the glaze to fix these scratches.
>
> After you are finished with the glaze step, your paint should look as
> good as it's going to look.  You may consider a polish at this point,
> although in some cases polishes and glazes are about the same thing,
> with polishes being even more mild than glazes.
>
> At this point, you should apply a good quality wax to protect that
> finish that you just worked so hard to achieve.  You should not be
> concerned about wax building up, and I think it is also incorrect to
> think that wax is the cause of swirl marks.  As far as buildup goes,
> the glaze will have removed any old wax buildup.  By not waxing after
> a glaze, you have removed whatever protection your precious paint had,
> and left a clean car ripe for paint damage.  The hand glaze DOES NOT
> leave any protective layer!  It stripped the previous protective
> layer, in preparation for the new wax.
>
> Personally, I use the 3M Imperial Hand Glaze when I feel it is
> necessary, and follow it up with Meguiar's wax (I don't remember which
> one).  It's a carauba wax in a can (not liquid).
>
> You can learn a whole lot about this subject by checking out the
> "HOW-TO" articles on the following website:
>
> http://www.CarCareOnline.com
>
> Also, Meguiar's and Mother's have websites with useful info.  Meguiar's
> has some online multimedia clinics, such as how to use orbital buffers.
> Mother's has an FAQ and an e-mail link to send questions to their
> chemists.
>
> http://www.meguiars.com
> http://www.mothers.com
>
> Check them out too.  And wax that car!
>
>  --                    ______________                     _
> Drew Senko            / Convertibles \                    |\
> dsenko@uu.net         \_____Rule!____/     .__====-_._____|_\______
> Vienna, VA, USA                     O      [   ___  |-     |  ___  \
> http://members.aol.com/drewinva       o o  =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)
> _______________________________________________\_/____________\_/_____
>
> P.S.  Wanna see the car that I wax?  Look at the webpage listed above.
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 11:43 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: another Dodge acronym (was: car acronyms)

Igor Todorovic wrote:

>What about another for DODGE:
>
>Dad's Old Dead Garage Experiment
________________________________________

Okay, I've stood by and watched the Mopars get insulted for two days, 
enoughs enough! I love my Olds, but I have to stand up for the honour 
of all Mopars. Here's one more for Dodge:

    Defeats Oldsmobiles Daily with Great Ease

And one for Plymouth:

   Passes Lumbering Yachtlike Merry Oldsmobiles Upon The Highway



- -John Carri  (ducking and running for cover all big-eyed
              with fear  (8-{)     )
- -72 Supreme (350/th350)
'73 340 RoadRunner (will eat my 350 Olds alive any day)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 11:59 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: Ball Joint Time? Opinons, pls

Robert Anderson wrote:

>My local shop failed me on state insection; lower ball joints.  This 
>is a real high miles car, so it's easy to believe.  They quoted $170 
>to do the thing, parts, labor, alignment, which seems pretty decent.  
<snipped>

>So, you think I should bring her home and do the joints, bushings,
>springs (missing a few precious weeks of great top-down cruising
>weather), or let them just "do it to it"? 
__________________________________________

Bob, you ever hear about those manhood initiation ceremonies that some 
African tribes put their teenage boys through?  Two or three weeks of 
torment, but then they get to brag about it for the rest of their 
lives?

Well, that's exactly how I feel about having replaced the lower 
control arm bushings, ball-joints, and coil-springs on my Olds a 
couple of weeks ago!

If you like working on your car, thats one thing; but I'd say that 
this particular job was the least enjoyable thing I've ever done on a 
car.  Maybe the question comes down to : which will hurt more, paying 
$170, or struggling with icky goop-covered suspension parts bolted 
tightly down with frozen 30 year old bolts, and filled with 
recalcitrant bushings that will mock your efforts to get them out for 
hours before they yield?  Only your wallet and your ego can tell you!
In my case, my wallet is thin, and I don't know of a good mechanic I 
trust not to take a big hammer to my car, so that decided it for me.

Good luck either way!

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 340 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 12:10 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: Ball Joint Time?  Opinions, pls

steve harris wrote:
<snipped>

....The bushings are a bear to replace.  If you can get someone to 
press the bushings in cheap let them. 

.....The ball joints are easy if you have the tools. 

.....The bushings are another job all together. 
_________________________________________

In my case the ball-joints were much more troublesome than the 
bushings.I was using a big bench-vice, a piece of water-pipe as an 
extension lever on the vice handle, and an assortment of bits of 
aluminium tubing as mandrels for pressing/receiving bushings, and 
while the bushings were a pain in the &#$!, I managed to get them all 
done; I managed to get the old ball-joints out, but I failed miserably 
at getting the new ones in. They would go in a little way, tip to one 
side or the other, and bind. Eventually I broke down and took the arms 
to a machine-shop and let them use their 12-ton press.

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 340 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 16:14:55 -0400
From: Uncle Pete <pteubel@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Apology for Non-Olds==>Microsoft (LAST WORDS)

At 01:00 PM 5/20/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Apology accepted Uncle Pete and I too apoloagize to you and the rest on this 
>fine
>Olds List. This will never happen again, at least from me, I won't promise for
>anybody else though.

Apology accepted here too, of course!   This shows we can all get along and
settle our differences in a civil manner.  

Now, lets move on to more Oldsmobile discussions! 

- - Uncle Pete
'51 98
'81 98
'82 98
'86 Ciera

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 13:45:44 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Apology for Non-Olds==>Microsoft (LAST WORDS)

*LOL* That e-mail you send out is funny but yet has a
very strong point! I like it! Thanks for the laugh!
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 13:46:38 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: To wax or not to wax?

- --- David Popadic <davepop@execpc.com> wrote:
> A new twist to the subject:
> 
> I have a paint job that was done in 92, it looks
> pretty good, it's Black.
> My friends advises not to use the hand glaze because
> of the age of the
> paint.  He thinks it might do more harm than good?
> 
> Any ideas (or comments) on this?
====================================

And to add an even better twist, after my crappy paint
job at Macco, they advised me NOT to use a wax. I was
to ONLY use a high quality polish. Something about the
wax being too abrasive? So, I went out and bought that
EXPENSIVE polish Zimnol. I'm not sure if it is really
any greater then a cheaper polish, but it does shine
nice if used correctly and it makes the surface slick
as ice. Not to mention the great smell from the
natural ingredients.
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 13:54:58 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Apology for Non-Olds==>Microsoft (LAST WORDS)

Sorry.....shoulda been private! 

- --- Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com> wrote:
> *LOL* That e-mail you send out is funny but yet has
> a
> very strong point! I like it! Thanks for the laugh!
> ===
> Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> rockman20@yahoo.com
> 1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
> 1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big
> Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
> 1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson
> Snowmobile
> (I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
>
_____________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Free instant messaging and more at
> http://messenger.yahoo.com
> 

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 16:02:07 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Plate Stickers and a new question

try the folks who issue the plates!  or the state patrol or dept of public
safety or whoever....KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 1:42 PM
Subject: Re: Plate Stickers and a new question


> Plates here in ND are about 100 bucks. Speaking of
> plates, anyone know how I could find out what the law
> is in ND for front license plates? I want to know if I
> need one or not. I talked to the Fargo police and they
> said yes. I talked to the Sheriff and they said no. I
> talk to friends and they say it depends on what year
> the car is! *scratching head* I wanna know!
>
> --- steve harris <meso@pamlico.net> wrote:
> > Here in North Carolina the price varies with the
> > year of the car.  I think I
> > paid 35 or 40 for a '95 lumina and an 85 F*rd F-150.
> > That is 35 to 40 for
> > both vehicles not each of them.  However it can cost
> > you 200bucks to get new
> > plates!  Thats alot o cash for a small piece of tin.
>
>
> ===
> Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> rockman20@yahoo.com
> 1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
> 1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
> 1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
> (I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
> _____________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 16:11:58 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Non-Olds===>Microsoft??

Lou,
I bought that bridge ten years ago you are buying a bad bridge deal....KK
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 11:03 AM
Subject: Re: Non-Olds===>Microsoft??


> No you don't anymore, I bought it last evening.
> Lou
> 
> ----------
> > From: Oldsmobeav@aol.com
> > To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> > Subject: Re: Non-Olds===>Microsoft??
> > Date: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 5:30 PM
> > 
> > Isnt it enough I own the brooklyn bridge?
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 16:16:06 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Rocker Arm shims - Repeat

Don,

Vince is correct.  The non-adjustability of the Olds valvetrain requires that
you either:

1)  Ensure that the valvetrain geometry is identical to stock (virtually
impossible following a valve job, especially if the valve job was performed by 
a
non-Oldsmobile cognizant shop),

2)  Use adjustable rocker arms, or

3)  Shim as you descibe.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 16:26:36 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Going to the Track first time, pointers needed

Igor;
When that last yellow gets the brightest, nail it. Don't know about your
rev points. But 90% of it is all on the light. Not for ETs, but to win.
Personally I like non radials with about 10 to 15 #s in them. As wide and
as less tread they will allow. Stage long for good ETs and to get a jump on
the other guy, just enough to turn on the last staging light.
Lou
- ----------
> From: Igor Todorovic <igor455@home.com>
> To: OLDS LIST <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Going to the Track first time, pointers needed
> Date: Thursday, May 20, 1999 12:58 PM
> 
> If it does not rain tomorrow, I plan on going to the track with my '81
Delta
> for the first time for one of those Friday night test&tune events.  I
just
> want to see how fast my car runs.  I bet I will be in for disappointment.
> Anyhow, I have never done that before so have no idea what to expect or
how
> to run.  I think that 4200 RPM is a good shift point.  What about cool
downs
> and so on.  How do I react at the light.  I want to make sure that I get
a
> good reaction time so that my car runs as quick as possible.  What about
> traction on Radials (compared to street, for example) and so on.  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 16:26:00 -0500
From: "Hitson, Roger" <HITSOR@mail.dmh.state.mo.us>
Subject: Re: Power Tour

I think I saw a fragment of the power tour this afternoon on US 67, 70 or so
miles south of St. Louis. A red  mid-years vette with a blower sized scoop,
a bright yellow 57 chebby, and a red camaro ....all lookin out of place at
the Shell station

roger
 ----------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 16:33:28 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Oil : Synthetic is the Best!

Jeff;
The main problems with oil is not loss of viscosity, it's contaminants. You
get acid, water, and particles in it whether it's syn or reg. Used Mobil 1
in the TA, couldn't tell the diff. Still changed it at 3000 every time. I
believe just a GOOD brand oil will suffice. One persons opinion only.
Lou (Master) Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
oca#31353 

- ----------
> From: Jeff Carter <blue442@webtv.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> All this synthetic talk is finally getting to me.  On the 442 it's a
> given.  A yearly change would fall well within the change per 1,000
> miles I follow.  Now the *other* car gets changed at 2500 miles.  Since
> it's new (overbudget) heart is coming soon, can I use Mobil 1 and
> prolong oil change intervals?  If so by how much?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 17:34:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: dsenko@UU.NET (Drew Senko)
Subject: Re: To wax or not to wax?

> A new twist to the subject:
> 
> I have a paint job that was done in 92, it looks pretty good, it's Black.
> My friends advises not to use the hand glaze because of the age of the
> paint.  He thinks it might do more harm than good?
> 
> Any ideas (or comments) on this?


Is the car clearcoated?  If so, you are really only touching the
clearcoat.  Black cars, if nothing else, tend to show ever tiny
scratch that they can.  Is your friend just another car enthusiast
(like me), or is there some other reason to give his judgement greater
weight (such as, does he paint cars for a living?)?

My car is a 71, and I'm told that it was repainted in 81.  I have used
glazes on it without trouble.  Mind you, the glaze it not needed
everytime I wax.

Basically, I would read the articles on the Car Care Online webpage to
really understand this topic.  In fact, that's where most of my info
is coming from anyway (and some of you thought I knew something).

http://www.CarCareOnline.com

Info on cleaners, glazes, polishes, waxes:

http://www.carcareonline.com/clean_paint.html

In depth wax info:

http://www.carcareonline.com/protect_paint.html

Wax on, wax off!

 --                    ______________                     _
Drew Senko            / Convertibles \                    |\
dsenko@uu.net         \_____Rule!____/     .__====-_._____|_\______
Vienna, VA, USA                     O      [   ___  |-     |  ___  \
http://members.aol.com/drewinva       o o  =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)
_______________________________________________\_/____________\_/_____

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 16:49:30 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: To wax or not to wax?

David;
Had a 66 Vette, Concours car. Always used Maguires(spelling) on it, the
liquid cleaner, and then the paste wax in a can. The guys with the
expensive cars told me to use it. I loved it and still use it. It's carnuba
wax(spelling again). Supposed to be the best. ???
Lou
PS I could get the spelling correct but don't want to walk to the garage.  
PPS I always showed it with the hardtop on it, they made a Plexiglas
cleaner and wax which was outstanding, used it later on the race car plexi.
- ----------
> From: David Popadic <davepop@execpc.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: To wax or not to wax?
> Date: Thursday, May 20, 1999 2:37 PM
> 
> A new twist to the subject:
> 
> I have a paint job that was done in 92, it looks pretty good, it's Black.
> My friends advises not to use the hand glaze because of the age of the
> paint.  He thinks it might do more harm than good?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 16:38:43 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Plate Stickers

Sam;
Big rip-off, I wrote to him, not that he cares. But he will not carry So
Ill. next election.
Lou


> Well it seems that the plate sticker the state of IL will be $78. The
price
> use to be 48.  I was wondering if anybody out there pays more or less for
> there state plate sticker.
> Sam Johnson

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 16:53:35 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Non-Olds===>Microsoft??

Kerry;
Darn, I have the deed too!
Lou

- ----------
> From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Non-Olds===>Microsoft??
> Date: Thursday, May 20, 1999 4:11 PM
> 
> Lou,
> I bought that bridge ten years ago you are buying a bad bridge deal....KK

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 18:03:54 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: difference in carbs thanks

Mike,
Chances of you finding a carb guy who has played with a Q-jet with no primary
metering rods is slim.  Ask if he's ever seen one.  Doesn't really matter,
though, when rebuilding the carb unless the guy decides to try to install a
power valve in it.  You didn't say (I don't think) what this is going onto or
the part number on the '70 carb (7040256?).  If your '70 W-30 is a 4-speed and
you're running the original 328 deg duration cam, it is a bit tricky to get the
carb right.  Had to do a fair amount of fiddling to get ours running right.
Have fun.

Dude

Mike McLeod wrote:

> Thanks Karl and Dude for your responses. Right now I have a 70 442 carb on,
> and I also have a 72 442 carb....

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 17:21:33 -0500
From: "David Popadic" <davepop@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: To wax or not to wax?

> Is the car clearcoated?  If so, you are really only touching the
> clearcoat.  Black cars, if nothing else, tend to show ever tiny
> scratch that they can.  Is your friend just another car enthusiast
> (like me), or is there some other reason to give his judgement greater
> weight (such as, does he paint cars for a living?)?
>

I'm not sure if it has clearcoat or not.  Is there a way to check it (or
tell?)?

My friend is a car enthusiast, but he doesn't paint cars.  I think he's
just "over" worried about me messing it up (I tend to do these things...ha
ha).

So far, I've heard, "if properly applied", what does that mean exactly?

Thanks
Dave
67 Cutlass Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 18:24:15 -0400
From: "Vogt, Lyle" <Lyle.Vogt@delta-air.com>
Subject: Oldsmobile Car Watch

I have in my possession a fine example of a Swiss made MAAR Automatic
Oldsmobile Car Watch.   I can find no one familiar with this item nor anyone
that has seen one before.  I have heard it was an option on  post 1940 Model
98s.  I do not have the mount but the unit it self operates flawlessly.  I
picked it up after it laid in my tool box for 10 years and it began to run.


The Plexiglas on the face and the two viewing windows is marginally crazed
but the inner weights and gears are rust free and appear as new.  I have no
idea what the mount looked like but the case chrome is near perfect.   The
face has the world with Saturn ring emblem which a 1/2" long second hand
operates around.  I would be interested in any information concerning this
timepiece.   I inherited it 26 years ago and have wondered exactly what year
and model it was available on.  Possibly there is a museum in existence
where I could see one on the automobile it was intended for.

Sincerely, 
Lyle E. Vogt  

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 17:27:29 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: To wax or not to wax?

David;
Wash it first, just kidding. The list, is there a way to tell, the 93 GMC
Sonoma is not, it's red. ???????? The 93 Gran Prix is, it's blue. Wherein
lies the difference?
Lou

- ----------
> From: David Popadic <davepop@execpc.com>
> 
> I'm not sure if it has clearcoat or not.  Is there a way to check it (or
> tell?)?
> 
> My friend is a car enthusiast, but he doesn't paint cars.  I think he's
> just "over" worried about me messing it up (I tend to do these
things...ha
> ha).
> 
> So far, I've heard, "if properly applied", what does that mean exactly?

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 16:40:05 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: To wax or not to wax?

Hi David,
	I've heard that if your cloth shows the paint colour when you are
waxing it then you do not have clearcoat and vice versa.  This seems to
make sense since the clear should keep the colour from getting onto the
cloth.  I wouldn't bet the farm on it though.

I painted my car just as the basecoat/clearcoat revolution was starting
and I sure wish I had used it.  I'm not even sure I can get the same
paint anymore :(
- -- 

Cliff "Onecoat" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 18:56:26 -0400
From: "mrhell" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: adjusting rally pac tach

Remove the tach from the dash, there is a round silver sticker that you must
peal up to expose the screw hole.  Just turn the screw and compare it to
another meter/tach you have hooked up.  Mine was extremely sensitive.

ONE IMPORTANT THING!  BEFORE you start the engine, remove the tach from the
dash, MAKE SURE YOU ATTACH A GROUND WIRE TO THE TACH!  Or you might have a
"shocking" experience.  I also wore a thick leather glove just to be save.
I hate those 110 arm twitches!  8>)

Then after you go through all this trouble, you'll discover that the damn
thing won't stay calibrated long.  But it's something to do I guess.  Cool
thing those Tic-Toc-Tachs

RC Hellebuyck  -  OCA #30213
1971 4-4-2 convt
See my car and over 40 other Olds' at:
http://home.sprynet.com/~mrhell/oakbud.htm

- -----Original Message-----
From: Mike McLeod <mikemcleod@msn.com>
To: Olds <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Wednesday, May 19, 1999 9:00 PM
Subject: adjusting rally pac tach


>Has anyone on the list ever used the calibration screw on the back of the
>tac  for adjustment purposes? How did it work out? Can you tell me how you
>did it? My tac is way off in my W-30. Even after calibration, if it is not
>100% accurate I would still like to have it close. Thanks
>
>Michael McLeod
>70 W-30
>97 Aurora
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 19:06:39 -0400
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Going to the Track first time, pointers needed

Expect a reaction time of 1.5 seconds the first couple of times!  After that
a couple of red lights.  Don't wait to see the final light.  You've got to
jump it a bit.  Act snobby toward "neuspeed" type folks!  Or just kick their
asses.


Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 3.8 Calais
Bucks County, PA
mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 19:07:51 -0400
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Going to the Track first time, pointers needed

And don't think that a neutral slam is the next best thing to a trans-brake!
That's a trans-break!


Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 3.8 Calais
Bucks County, PA
mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 20:08:23 -0500
From: "robin.gilsdorf" <robin.gilsdorf@mciworld.com>
Subject: To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

Hi, I am looking for Hurst/Olds emblems for a 72 H/O.  The car was parked
in the trees when I found it and someone robbed the emblems off the body
and out of the intior if anyone can help please E-mail me at
www.gilsdorf@mciworld.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 18:21:05 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: To wax or not to wax?

Cliff;
That makes sense.
Lou

> Hi David,
> 	I've heard that if your cloth shows the paint colour when you are
> waxing it then you do not have clearcoat and vice versa.  This seems to
> make sense since the clear should keep the colour from getting onto the
> cloth.  I wouldn't bet the farm on it though.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 18:24:28 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Going to the Track first time, pointers needed

Ray;
Ate several trannies doing that, torqueflites, sprags, case, and rear
housings. Got good at repairing in 1/2 hour though.
Lou

- ----------
> From: Master Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: RE: Going to the Track first time, pointers needed
> Date: Thursday, May 20, 1999 6:07 PM
> 
> And don't think that a neutral slam is the next best thing to a
trans-brake!
> That's a trans-break!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 19:27:03 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: To wax or not to wax?

>
>And to add an even better twist, after my crappy paint
>job at Macco, they advised me NOT to use a wax. I was
>to ONLY use a high quality polish.

New paint should *not* be waxed for at least 90 days. Silicones in the wax
can react with the paint and prevent full curing.

Polishes and glazes without Silicones are OK. Check the labels.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 17:51:19 -0600
From: "Ed Linehan" <ed@techniflite.com>
Subject: emission decal

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_00CD_01BEA2E9.5D848C40
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

Hello listers,

The emission sticker I have on my 70 W-30 Sport Coupe ( please no comments
from you know who) has a circle at the bottom of the right hand side with SG
inside.  Are there any other cars out there that have a code other than OF
for auto trans cars?  The sticker specifies 1970 and matches all other
stickers in every respect except for the code.  The sticker is ratty and
needs to be replaced.  Shall I replace with reproduction and look like
everyone else or should I leave it alone.  Also, the aqua colored stamp on
my firewall does not look like TT it more resembles II inside the square.
Is this normal?


Ed Linehan

- ------=_NextPart_000_00CD_01BEA2E9.5D848C40
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<STYLE></STYLE>

<META content=3D'"MSHTML 5.00.0910.1309"' name=3DGENERATOR></HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>Hello listers,</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D2>The emission sticker I have on my 70 =
W-30 Sport=20
Coupe ( please no comments from you know who) has a circle at the bottom =
of the=20
right hand side with SG inside.&nbsp; Are there any other cars out there =
that=20
have a code other than OF for auto trans cars?&nbsp; The sticker =
specifies 1970=20
and matches all other stickers in every respect except for the =
code.&nbsp; The=20
sticker is ratty and needs to be replaced.&nbsp; Shall I replace with=20
reproduction and look like everyone else or should I leave it =
alone.&nbsp; Also,=20
the aqua colored stamp on my firewall does not look like TT it more =
resembles II=20
inside the square.&nbsp; Is this normal?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT face=3DArial size=3D3>Ed Linehan</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_00CD_01BEA2E9.5D848C40--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 21:10:40 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 1968 442 head

Not on the list, respond to pkraft@worldpath.net

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Pete Kraft <pkraft@worldpath.net>
Subject: 1968 442 head

I am looking for a cylinder head for: 1968 442 conv. 400cid, no W-30, ps/pb, 
no ac, auto
Please reach me at:  Pete Kraft
                               65 Skyline Dr
                               Gilford, NH 03246
                               603-527-7634
                               pkraft@worldpath.net

Thanks!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 20:17:48 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Ball Joint Time( A LA John Carri)

I had to reply to this one dude!  The tribal ritual thing was too funny.  I
hate to say it,  but its true.  When you do all of that work by yourself;
you'll brag about it to your grandchildren.  The trouble you had with the
ball joints......uuummmmm....well you must have been working on that Dodge
of yours!:)  I rented that big-ol C-clamp look'n thing from auto zone,  and
it worked great.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve(just kidding about the Dodge thing)  Harris
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
- ----- Original Message -----
From: John Carri <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, May 20, 1999 12:10 PM
Subject: Re: Ball Joint Time? Opinions, pls


> steve harris wrote:
> <snipped>
>
> ....The bushings are a bear to replace.  If you can get someone to
> press the bushings in cheap let them.
>
> .....The ball joints are easy if you have the tools.
>
> .....The bushings are another job all together.
> _________________________________________
>
> In my case the ball-joints were much more troublesome than the
> bushings.I was using a big bench-vice, a piece of water-pipe as an
> extension lever on the vice handle, and an assortment of bits of
> aluminium tubing as mandrels for pressing/receiving bushings, and
> while the bushings were a pain in the &#$!, I managed to get them all
> done; I managed to get the old ball-joints out, but I failed miserably
> at getting the new ones in. They would go in a little way, tip to one
> side or the other, and bind. Eventually I broke down and took the arms
> to a machine-shop and let them use their 12-ton press.
>
> -John Carri
> '72 Supreme
> '73 340 RoadRunner
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 21:11:49 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 1964 Olds Dynamic 88 (for sale)

Not on the list, respond to DOBRIEN173@aol.com

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	DOBRIEN173@aol.com
Subject: 1964 Olds Dynamic 88 (for sale)

394ci rocket,
4 door, good condition,,,driveable
all original,,88k miles
will sell for reasonable offer?
car is in atlanta , georgia,,,,,

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 21:12:51 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 1998 Silhouette plastic front end vibration

Possible address problem caused the bounce; forwarding.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Norm Karlson <nkarlson@wordtech.com>
Subject: 1998 Silhouette plastic front end vibration

Hi all,
 
First time on your list. 
 
I have a Red 67 Cutlass Convertible (64K) and a 1998 Silhouette - Guess
which one is in the garage??
 
I mention the 67 to let you know I like the product but am experiencing
a problem I need some help.
 
When driving the Silhouette at 70mph I get a front end vibration that
can be heard inside but not felt. Not steering nor metal front end. It's
the plastic lower front end (cowling). If you all have ever gone to a
dealer and grabbed hold of a new one in the lot, they all are the same
and are as loose as a goose.
 
Well, It has been into the dealer three (3) times and he is getting
frustrated. He now says to drive it hard till it either breaks or falls
off...and I don't really agree with his solution.  
 
Anyone got any ideas? Anyone know if this is a common problem and if
there is a fix out there less than 50 speed screws or total replacement.
Still under warranty so I don't want yet to apply my own fix.
 
I am planning a long trip here in 2 weeks and don't want to drive like
grand-ma. 
 
Any help is appreciated
 
Best Regards
 
Norm Karlson
nkarlson@wordtech.com 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 20:13:14 EDT
From: HURSTOLDS3@aol.com
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: 1968 442 head

Does anyone know where I could get a set of grills for an 83 Hurst/Olds
or any other literature for the car???

Steve 
83 H/O

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 21:14:10 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: ADMIN: Clueless, The Movie

On Thu, 20 May 1999, Robin Orsino wrote:
> Uns*bscribe.  If I get any more sh*t from you guys, I will sue.
> DON'T send me any more messages.

... along with about 20 other similar messages, some that made it to the
list, some that just bounced to me.

If the person had spent half the time it took to send those 20 posts in
looking at either of the addresses below, or at the message received upon
sign-up, it would have been no problem. Please, folks, use the brain you
were given. The web pages below make it as easy as can be -- but only if
you use them!

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 21:16:01 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Oldsmobile Car Watch

Not on the list, respond to Lyle.Vogt@delta-air.com

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Vogt, Lyle" <Lyle.Vogt@delta-air.com>
Subject: Oldsmobile Car Watch

I have in my possession a fine example of a Swiss made MAAR Automatic
Oldsmobile Car Watch.   I can find no one familiar with this item nor anyone
that has seen one before.  I have heard it was an option on  post 1940 Model
98s.  I do not have the mount but the unit it self operates flawlessly.  I
picked it up after it laid in my tool box for 10 years and it began to run.


The Plexiglas on the face and the two viewing windows is marginally crazed
but the inner weights and gears are rust free and appear as new.  I have no
idea what the mount looked like but the case chrome is near perfect.   The
face has the world with Saturn ring emblem which a 1/2" long second hand
operates around.  I would be interested in any information concerning this
timepiece.   I inherited it 26 years ago and have wondered exactly what year
and model it was available on.  Possibly there is a museum in existence
where I could see one on the automobile it was intended for.

Sincerely, 
Lyle E. Vogt  

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 21:17:19 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '72 H/O Emblems

Not on the list, respond to robin.gilsdorf@mciworld.com

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"robin.gilsdorf" <robin.gilsdorf@mciworld.com>

Hi, I am looking for Hurst/Olds emblems for a 72 H/O.  The car was parked
in the trees when I found it and someone robbed the emblems off the body
and out of the intior if anyone can help please E-mail me at
www.gilsdorf@mciworld.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 20:25:13 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: another Dodge acronym (was: car acronyms)

John Carri wrote:

> Okay, I've stood by and watched the Mopars get insulted for two days,
> enoughs enough! I love my Olds, but I have to stand up for the honour
> of all Mopars. Here's one more for Dodge:
>
>     Defeats Oldsmobiles Daily with Great Ease
>
> And one for Plymouth:
>
>    Passes Lumbering Yachtlike Merry Oldsmobiles Upon The Highway

I got your back,  John!!  Here's another:

MOPAR:
Move Over, Plymouth Approaching Rapidly.

Sorry, Greg.  I'll stop.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/dual exhaust/
        sometimes Q-Jet, sometimes Holley/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 20:25:27 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Back In Town -- Thanks Chris Witt

Howdy,

Just got home from 4 days in New York -- downtown Manhattan.  Didn't see
a single cool car.  I did, however, see a 24 hour body shop.  Hmmm.

Anyway, my thanks to Chris Witt for his reponse to my "More Noises"
post.  I'll check it out.  Hopefully, that's all it is.  BTW, Chris, I
just joined the list about a year ago.  I've read many of your inputs on
the FAQ.  Pleased to meet you.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/dual exhaust/
        sometimes Q-Jet, sometimes Holley/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 20:28:01 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Plate Stickers and a new question

In a message dated 5/20/99 2:42:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
rockman20@yahoo.com writes:

<<  Speaking of
 plates, anyone know how I could find out what the law
 is in ND for front license plates?  >>

Why don't you contact your Department of Motor Vehicles.  I would think they 
should know since they issue plates.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 19:29:34 -0700
From: Ben Markert <radu@ciris.net>
Subject: ICQ and Lila Update

At 04:32 PM 5/19/99 -0700, you wrote:
>Hi all,
>
>Have any of you looked into ICQ?  I have a handle and will
>be glad to mutually share it.  It is great for detecting
>friends on the net.....
>
>Later gators....

I have ICQ, my handle is Radu, my number is 323963. just say your from the
Olds List and authorize you to be on my list.

Olds content:
Lila has now lower ball joint on drivers after it gave out. She scared the
shit out of me by falling down while I was turning. Her tire was shoved up
into the fenderwell, ruining the body work onthe fender, and rubbing the
tire because it locked up. After inspection, I noticed she needs new front
end parts all the way 'round. She has a small problem, with the back-up
lights. They flash when you put her in reverse, but they dont burn. The
bulbs are ok, the wiring looks OK. I have tried a few things I can think to
try. Any ideas?



Ben Markert aka Radu(online)
radu@ciris.net

Olds forevah!! '
	Lila: 68 Cutlass "S", 350-4bbl, TH350


THM Homepage: HTTP://www.geocities.com/SiliconValley/Park/5290/ 	"Soon 
to
be my New and Improved website about all things Me!"


The Xen Page: HTTP://www.geocities.com/Hollywood/Hills/2050/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 20:39:34 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: Oldsmobile Car Watch

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> 
> Not on the list, respond to Lyle.Vogt@delta-air.com
> 
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>    --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
>              &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm
> 
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From:   "Vogt, Lyle" <Lyle.Vogt@delta-air.com>
> Subject: Oldsmobile Car Watch
> 
> I have in my possession a fine example of a Swiss made MAAR Automatic
> Oldsmobile Car Watch.   I can find no one familiar with this item nor anyone
> that has seen one before.  I have heard it was an option on  post 1940 Model
> 98s.  I do not have the mount but the unit it self operates flawlessly.  I
> picked it up after it laid in my tool box for 10 years and it began to run.
> 
> The Plexiglas on the face and the two viewing windows is marginally crazed
> but the inner weights and gears are rust free and appear as new.  I have no
> idea what the mount looked like but the case chrome is near perfect.   The
> face has the world with Saturn ring emblem which a 1/2" long second hand
> operates around.  I would be interested in any information concerning this
> timepiece.   I inherited it 26 years ago and have wondered exactly what year
> and model it was available on.  Possibly there is a museum in existence
> where I could see one on the automobile it was intended for.
> 
> Sincerely,
> Lyle E. Vogt

Lyle,

This is an option from 1952.  It was available on Ninety Eights, Super
88s and DeLuxe 88s.  It may have been available on some late '51s.  The
watch mounted in the vertical steering wheel post and a was wound by the
movement of the wheel.  Crazing on the crystal is not unusual for
watches which have seen any amount of time in use is a car.  Neither is
fading on the dial.  I bought one of these at an estate sale for a
retired Olds dealer back in '95.  It has never been in a car, but was
put in a hand-made miniature grandfather clock casing.  Pretty neat.  I
paid $150 for mind and wouldn't part with it.  Cars with these watches
turn up at car shows every now and then.  Most of them can a compass in
the dash in the place where the electric clock would have mounted.

Paul 
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 19:56:30 -0500 (EST)
From: hurst455@webtv.net (Corey Putnam)
Subject: 600 miles and done

    I tried new oil filter(just in case) same pressure, tried another
guage(that I knew was good) same pressure. 
 Pulled the oil pan about three hours ago and found two inch and a half
long pieces of bearing material. My engine is done.
   I`m not a quitter, I`m out of money. I put over 10 grand in this
project and can`t scrape anymore. I`ll find out in the morning if the
shop that built it will stand behind their work. There was no warranty
since mine was a "custom" order. Live and learn.  

Corey Putnam
75 H/O W-30(my way)
87 Regal w/Olds 455(Mama`s ride)
H/OCA #0915A
OCC #0208
OCA #031264
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 20:07:47 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: 600 miles and done

Corey;
Stand by your guns, try to take the offensive, they may cave in. Really
shouldn't eat bearing unless your pulling 7 grand with it. Sorry about the
problem, wish you well.
Lou (Master) Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
oca#31353

- ----------
> From: Corey Putnam <hurst455@webtv.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>     I tried new oil filter(just in case) same pressure, tried another
> guage(that I knew was good) same pressure. 
>  Pulled the oil pan about three hours ago and found two inch and a half
> long pieces of bearing material. My engine is done.
>    I`m not a quitter, I`m out of money. I put over 10 grand in this
> project and can`t scrape anymore. I`ll find out in the morning if the
> shop that built it will stand behind their work. There was no warranty
> since mine was a "custom" order. Live and learn.  

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 21:17:04 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: sorry,  but I am confused?email bounce?

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0147_01BEA306.1BDF41A0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

There are a couple of folks saying that they are receiving our messages? =
 They are not on the list,  but they get our email?  How do I check to =
be sure I am mailing to the correct list?  Who whst where when why =
how??????/  I am lost on this!??????
meso@pamlico.net
Steve(clueless)
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html

- ------=_NextPart_000_0147_01BEA306.1BDF41A0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>There are a couple of folks saying that they are =
receiving our=20
messages?&nbsp; They are not on the list,&nbsp; but they get our =
email?&nbsp;=20
How do I check to be sure I am mailing to the correct list?&nbsp; Who =
whst where=20
when why how??????/&nbsp; I am lost on this!??????</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A><BR>Steve(clueless)<=
BR>North=20
Carolina<BR>ICQ#26466860<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html">http://members.xoo=
m.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html</A></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0147_01BEA306.1BDF41A0--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 19:13:17 -0700
From: Steve Raydon <sraydon@editpoint.com>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: ICQ]

Send me no more e-mail unless requested

Chris Sparks wrote:

> Sorry forgot a link.....
>
> http://www.mirabilis.com/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 21:17:05 -0400
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Rally

I need a picture of a Rally 350 in original trim and graphics, you know with
the color matching bumpers and all. Can anyone help?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 19:14:41 -0700
From: Steve Raydon <sraydon@editpoint.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: 1964 Olds Dynamic 88 (for sale)

Remove me from this e-mail list !

Greg Beaulieu wrote:

> Not on the list, respond to DOBRIEN173@aol.com
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>    --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
>              &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm
>
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From:   DOBRIEN173@aol.com
> Subject: 1964 Olds Dynamic 88 (for sale)
>
> 394ci rocket,
> 4 door, good condition,,,driveable
> all original,,88k miles
> will sell for reasonable offer?
> car is in atlanta , georgia,,,,,

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 20:16:32 -0500 (CDT)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Dr. Olds - K. Wood)
Subject: Kuettner Olds Show Saturday.

Anybody know anything about the OCC show
on Saturday?  I know the OCC specializes in
73 to 77 Cutlasses, but are there likely to be an
abundance of other years represented at this
show in the Milwaukee area???  Might stop by
and check it out if it's not raining and I was just
wondering what I could expect.

Thanks guys.
Kevin 
Dr-Olds@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 20 May 1999 21:19:33 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Ball Joint Time? Opinons, pls

In a message dated 5/20/99 4:18:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
jcarri@alesis1.usa.com writes:

<< If you like working on your car, thats one thing; but I'd say that 
 this particular job was the least enjoyable thing I've ever done on a 
 car.  Maybe the question comes down to : which will hurt more, paying 
 $170, or struggling with icky goop-covered suspension parts bolted 
 tightly down with frozen 30 year old bolts, and filled with 
 recalcitrant bushings that will mock your efforts to get them out for 
 hours before they yield?   >>

Sounds like fun.  Be a man, I say go for it.  Glad I don't have to make the 
decision. lol

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1970
*********************************

