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cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1965


oldsmobile-digest        Tuesday, May 18 1999        Volume 01 : Number 1965



Re: Retain stock or add power options?
OCA Roadside Assistance Program II
Re: I'm back!
69 H/O first time at track story follow-up
Best way to lube speedometer cable????  +  Car Acronyms
Re: steering grinding noise
Re: Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai-OR maybe just a better SCANNER
Re: Codes, Prd #'s  etc..
Re: front end bushings (was front end clunk)
Re: steering grinding noise
RE: 69 H/O first time at track story follow-up
Dynomax Headers
Re: 69 H/O first time at track story follow-up
Dynomax Headers
Re: steering grinding noise
Re: Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai-OR maybe just a better SCANNER
67 Cutlass vs. 97  Mustang
Re: Codes, Prd #'s  etc..
Re: 67 Cutlass vs. 97  Mustang
Re: Pulling a PS Pulley ??
Re: 67 Cutlass vs. 97  Mustang
Re: Wasps! 
Re: Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai-OR maybe just a better.........MORE 
ADVICE
UNBOUNCE: Fisher "C" body gauge blocks
Re: Booster
UNBOUNCE: Oldsmobile being given a sad farewell
Re: Just Wondering
Re: Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai-OR maybe just a  better.........MORE 
ADVICE
Re: w-z ex.man.in72cutlass conv.
Olds curiosity obtained
Re: CAR ACRONYMS
Re: Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai
EGR
Re: Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai-OR maybe just a better SCANNER
66 Cutlass 4 sale in LA
76-77 Cutlass  gauge pac
Stalwart Old 98
Re: Retain stock or add power options?
Re: Codes, Prd #'s  etc..
Re: Trunk mat question+other babble
Re: Trunk mat question
Re: CAR ACRONYMS
Re: Dynomax Headers
455 Into Vista Cruiser-Manifolds & Valve Covers?
15" Olds Rims
Re: Codes, Prd #'s  etc..
Re: 15" Olds Rims

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 16:11:04 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Retain stock or add power options?

Keith, 

Your car is beautiful! 

Good news: You can make it the most valuable if you don't do anything to 
it except maintaining it stock. A car like this should not be altered in 
any way. A bone stock car is not worth anything less then a later opted 
up one if it is 100% original!

Also, leave the motor alone! You want the original numbers matching motor 
to stay in there. If you decide to modify anything you should only do 
what you can change back and keep all parts to get it back in original 
condition. 

If you like to play you should get something that is already altered so 
much that you can play with it without messing it up.

I don't know much about cars older then 68 but this seems to be a 
wonderful original and I want to encourage you again to leave it as it is 
and to put all your effort in detailing it to 100% original. 

Hope this helps. 

Regards, George

- ---------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. (struggling hard to look original!)
- ---------------------

On Tue, 18 May 1999, kcseak wrote:

> Hi list.
>  I have a 1964 Dynamic 88 that is all original. No power anything! It's a
> sweet car, only 70k on her. http://home.neo.lrun.com/cseak/car/ pics only.
>  My Question is....
>  Is my car more valuable 'as is' stock, or if I took ps. pb. air. power
> antenna and wonder bar from a 1964 starfire would I be raising or lowering
> the value of "The Floater"
> Did 1964 Dynamic 88's have any power options?
> Should I have the starfire engine rebuilt and put it in my car with dual
> exhaust?
>              Keith
> 
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 17:29:00 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: OCA Roadside Assistance Program II

OK, I knew I hit the send button too soon...

For those of you who don't know what the program is, here's a quick
rundown:
A list of OCA members willing to offer their assistance to other OCA
members who have had car trouble.  The level of assistance is totally up
to you, be it offering the name of a reputable garage or towing company,
to grabbing your tools and going out to help with the repairs.

If you're interested, please send me your name, phone number, snail mail
address, OCA#, as well as a list of your cars and any special info you
think would be useful.

- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
95 Aurora
OCA# 30442

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 17:31:41 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: I'm back!

(Twilight Zone Music) do do do do, do do do do.....

First Bob Valentine, then Chris Witt, now Chris Sparks.  Who's next, Mike (two
E's, no S') Frederick?

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 17:42:10 -0400
From: "Shokouhi, Mike" <ShokouhM@nasd.com>
Subject: 69 H/O first time at track story follow-up

>
>Hi all,
>I mentioned last week that I was taking my recently finished restored 69 H/O
>to the track.  Most of my friends thought i was crazy to take what took me 5
>years to restore and then drive it down the track, well here is what
>happened.
>
>You might recall the Royal GTOs invited my club (Capitol City Rockets) to
>their day at the track at MD int'l raceway.  Not a great turnout of GTOs this
>time, but at least three olds club members were their: Ray Moriarity- the
>prez(sp?), Brent Pinkstaff (both on the list) and Toby (don't remember the
>last name). -Toby won the best reaction time contest with a 5.03 in his '93
>(i think) Aurora!!!- he the man.
>
>My car is an a/c car with 3:23 rear COMPLETELY stock, really just a trailer
>queen, but i wanted to see if i could beat the time in MuscleCar Review.
>(i did use my buddies street slicks, however)
>
>I thought I'd be in the high 14s if lucky (so did the gto guys!)
>First run:  14.3, i was rather pleased, but lots-o pinging from 2nd to 3rd
>(oh yea beat by a new vette w/exhaust that ran 13.0 (damn there fast!)
>
>second: 14.4ish (don't have slips w/me) -manually shifting
>
>third: retarded the dist. just a bit, got 14.1- i was giddy to say the least.
>
>I was so excited, i just went straight from the time slip area to the line
>again.
>-launched felt good, passed the finish line, and then CLUNK, Clunk from the
>rear, turn off motor and was imagining the whole rear floor ripped to
>shreds!!
>
>-Crawled out, rear yoke strap ripped out, took out one muffler, and dented
>other, destroyed yoke, bent driveshaft, but luckily (?) only put a
>superficial dent in floor board.
>worst part, i only ran a 14.2!  i guess haste does make waste.
>
>Brent was kind enough to offer me a yoke and driveshaft to borrow, since i
>was planning on doing the huge Ocean City Cruise this week.  I'm currently in
>the process of getting it back together (had a shaft made yesterday-but there
>go some points : (
>
>So, at least we know that these things can do better than what was in the
>mag.  So all i need now is a 4:11, some flowmasters, and I can try again!
>
>p.s. does mondello make hi-po u-joint straps ?(cause moroso does not for
>olds), also, anyone know a stock looking muffler that flows better than
>stock?
>
>If you want more nitty gritty, let me know.
>And thanks Brent for the help!!
>
>Mike Shokouhi
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 15:30:33 -0700
From: "Mountney, Scott" <scott.mountney@attws.com>
Subject: Best way to lube speedometer cable????  +  Car Acronyms

Any tips out there for the noisy speedometer cable?   Mine makes a small
noise.......probably only will get worse.    I am not sure what type of lube
to use either, or what is the best way to apply it.

You know, I would swear my buddies made up the "Old Ladies Driving Slowly"
:)
We had a contest to come up with "new" car acronyms, and that was one!
(this was years ago, so it shows all motorheads have the same sense of
humor.)    Here are a few of their creations with OLDS content.

OLDS
Oversized ( or Only) Lemons Detroit Sells

MOPAR
Made Of Putty And Rust

BMW
Break My Window

IROC
I Reek Of Cologne

You also forgot a classic that has been around for more years than
myself....
FIAT
Fix It Again Tony


Scott Mountney
72 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 18:38:52 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: steering grinding noise

I dont know what to tell ya dude.  I think there are sealed bearings in the
column.  That could be it.  My 71 442 does not have a boot on it.  There is
a bearing at the firewall(at least in the diagram  there is).  If you feel
real ambitious.............I would try to tear down the column,  and lube it
up.  I have never heard of this problem before.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <JonKrisInc@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 1:11 PM
Subject: Re: steering grinding noise


> In a message dated 5/17/99 3:01:27 PM EST, JonKrisInc writes:
>
> << Steering wheel has a grinding noise when it turns. Steering gear is
less
> than a year old, no leaks, fluid full. There is a rubber boot on the
steering
> column next to the firewall. Does this need to be lubed? Sounds like it
may
> be coming from inside the column. Anybody ever have these symptoms before?
>  Bruce
>  75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course) >>
>
> Anybody out there?
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 17:33:39 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai-OR maybe just a better 
SCANNER

would have to steer you towards the STORM company look at WWW.STORM.COM
they have many scanners in various price ranges but all are photo quality
high resolution 36 bit
and they are designed for industry use all are good....KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 4:28 PM
Subject: Re: Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai-OR maybe just a better
SCANNER


> steve harris wrote:
> >
> > I agree with Cliff.  The scanner provides a much better image than the
> > digital camera.  I have used both,  and 100$ scanner is the best for the
> > buck.  OK... anyway look on Ebay or other aution area for good prices.
I
> > have used the Kodak(cheap model),  but dont remember the model number.
I do
> > remember it was the cheap one.  It produces a good image.  Shop around
for
> > one that has a good software bundel with it.  A good one should give you
at
> > least Adobe Photoshop 2.0 or higher.  Hope it helps.  Sorry I couldnt be
> > more specific about the camera.
> > meso@pamlico.net
> > Steve
>
> Well, so far the only one I've been half way impressed with is the Kodak
> 210plus at %450 from Sam's.  As for the scanners, what would you
> sugggest for a GOOD scanner in the low price ($150 area of less)?  I'm
> open for suggestions both ways.  I bought a scanner from Wal-Mart for
> around $95 that lasted less than two weeks.  Took it back and got a
> refund and swore off scanners.  But I'm sure you people are more up on
> this stuff than I am.
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 18:47:40 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Codes, Prd #'s  etc..

Robert McCarthy wrote:

> Where do i get info on older Cutlass' and 442's.

Robert,

Two info sources:  "Oldsmobile 442 & W-Machines Restoration Guide" from
Motorbooks International and "Standard Catalog of American Cars, 1946-1975" 
from
Krouse Publications.

Also some useful info in Year One's catalog.

Dude

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 18:44:30 -0400
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <TJACQUILLARD@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: front end bushings (was front end clunk)

One other tip to this is if you have a propane grill, you can put the
control arms in there and heat them up a little. I had one very stubborn
(sp?) control arm that didn't want the bushing to be inserted and this is
how I solved it. I had also put the bushings in deep freeze overnight. Just
be careful not to burn yourself.
T.J.

The Viking wrote:

> A tip... freeze the control arm bushings before you try to install them.
> They shrink just enough to make the job easier.. not easy but easier
>
> Al Varhus
> Columbus, Ohio
> http://www.infinet.com/~avar
> http://www.infinet.com/~avar/olds.html
> Oldsmobile Club of America # 29111
>   Mid Ohio Chapter #136
>   Gem City Rockets

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 19:22:41 -0400
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <TJACQUILLARD@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: steering grinding noise

Depending on where it is coming from, couldn't it possibly be the bearings 
inside
the column? Don't really know what kind of sound you are talking about, but I 
was
getting a grating sound and had to tear apart, clean, and lube my bearings 
inside
the column. It was not easy but it was definately a learning experience.
T.J.

JonKrisInc@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 5/17/99 3:01:27 PM EST, JonKrisInc writes:
>
> << Steering wheel has a grinding noise when it turns. Steering gear is less
> than a year old, no leaks, fluid full. There is a rubber boot on the steering
> column next to the firewall. Does this need to be lubed? Sounds like it may
> be coming from inside the column. Anybody ever have these symptoms before?
>  Bruce
>  75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course) >>
>
> Anybody out there?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 19:41:48 -0400
From: "Mike McLeod" <mikemcleod@msn.com>
Subject: RE: 69 H/O first time at track story follow-up

14.1 not bad, not bad at all. But to top that off you must have looked great
going down the track in your 69 H/O! Way to go!


Mike McLeod
70 W-30

> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Shokouhi, Mike
> Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 5:42 PM
> To: 'oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca'
> Subject: 69 H/O first time at track story follow-up
>
>
> >
> >Hi all,
> >I mentioned last week that I was taking my recently finished
> restored 69 H/O
> >to the track.  Most of my friends thought i was crazy to take
> what took me 5
> >years to restore and then drive it down the track, well here is what
> >happened.
> >
> >You might recall the Royal GTOs invited my club (Capitol City Rockets) to
> >their day at the track at MD int'l raceway.  Not a great turnout
> of GTOs this
> >time, but at least three olds club members were their: Ray Moriarity- the
> >prez(sp?), Brent Pinkstaff (both on the list) and Toby (don't
> remember the
> >last name). -Toby won the best reaction time contest with a 5.03
> in his '93
> >(i think) Aurora!!!- he the man.
> >
> >My car is an a/c car with 3:23 rear COMPLETELY stock, really
> just a trailer
> >queen, but i wanted to see if i could beat the time in MuscleCar Review.
> >(i did use my buddies street slicks, however)
> >
> >I thought I'd be in the high 14s if lucky (so did the gto guys!)
> >First run:  14.3, i was rather pleased, but lots-o pinging from
> 2nd to 3rd
> >(oh yea beat by a new vette w/exhaust that ran 13.0 (damn there fast!)
> >
> >second: 14.4ish (don't have slips w/me) -manually shifting
> >
> >third: retarded the dist. just a bit, got 14.1- i was giddy to
> say the least.
> >
> >I was so excited, i just went straight from the time slip area
> to the line
> >again.
> >-launched felt good, passed the finish line, and then CLUNK,
> Clunk from the
> >rear, turn off motor and was imagining the whole rear floor ripped to
> >shreds!!
> >
> >-Crawled out, rear yoke strap ripped out, took out one muffler,
> and dented
> >other, destroyed yoke, bent driveshaft, but luckily (?) only put a
> >superficial dent in floor board.
> >worst part, i only ran a 14.2!  i guess haste does make waste.
> >
> >Brent was kind enough to offer me a yoke and driveshaft to
> borrow, since i
> >was planning on doing the huge Ocean City Cruise this week.  I'm
> currently in
> >the process of getting it back together (had a shaft made
> yesterday-but there
> >go some points : (
> >
> >So, at least we know that these things can do better than what was in the
> >mag.  So all i need now is a 4:11, some flowmasters, and I can try again!
> >
> >p.s. does mondello make hi-po u-joint straps ?(cause moroso does not for
> >olds), also, anyone know a stock looking muffler that flows better than
> >stock?
> >
> >If you want more nitty gritty, let me know.
> >And thanks Brent for the help!!
> >
> >Mike Shokouhi
> >
> >
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 20:50:33 -0300
From: steven.ena@ns.sympatico.ca (Ena  Angus)
Subject: Dynomax Headers



------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 16:50:43 -0700
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: 69 H/O first time at track story follow-up

Mike McLeod wrote:
> 
> 14.1 not bad, not bad at all. But to top that off you must have looked great
> going down the track in your 69 H/O! Way to go!

I don't mean to question the time, however, I saw a show on SpeedVision
about the 68 H/O and I believe it did the 1/4 in 13 something?  Wasn't
the
69 roughly in the same ball park?

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 20:50:44 -0300
From: steven.ena@ns.sympatico.ca (Ena  Angus)
Subject: Dynomax Headers

Re. Rock Mans Request on Dynomax Headers:				First 
reply to the list, so
be patient. Dynamax Exhauct is owned by Walker Exhaust, this is thier
performance line of products. This company is owned by Tenneco
Automotive which also owns Rancho Suspenion and Monroe Shocks. If I'm
not mistaken they also own Hooker now, but don't quote me on that.
Haven't tried any of thier headers but have sold the Dynamax Exhaust
systems. they do make quality products and stand behind them if you have
problems, at least our rep. does.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 20:21:19 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: steering grinding noise

> > In a message dated 5/17/99 3:01:27 PM EST, JonKrisInc writes:
> >
> > << Steering wheel has a grinding noise when it turns. Steering gear is less
> > than a year old, no leaks, fluid full. There is a rubber boot on the 
steering
> > column next to the firewall. Does this need to be lubed? Sounds like it may
> > be coming from inside the column. Anybody ever have these symptoms before?

Did you try jacking the wheels free of the ground, then turning lock to
lock?   If it's p/s pump related the noise should lower drastically since
the pump is barely working.

If that doesn't help, you could also disconnect the steering shaft from
the box, then try turning the wheel... that will isolate the noise to
either the column or the box/pump.   


                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    -->   bob@tecmark.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 20:29:26 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai-OR maybe just a better 
SCANNER

I bought the Umax Astra 1220P.  I picked it up at Staples for about 110$,
and it came with Photoshop 2.0.  I like the software it is easy to learn,
and has a good list of features.  I think there is one called the HP slim
scan(or something like that)  that had very good reviews.  Go to the web
site http://auctions.zdnet.com/HTML/Cat207/Page1.htm to check prices.  Go to
this web page to look at prices and reviews
http://www.zdnet.com/products/content/wrapper/flatbeds.html
This is the web page I used to pick my scanner.  So far it has worked well
for me.  If you want to see photos scanned by the umax go to my web site.  I
am not the best photographer, but I think the pics look good.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 5:28 PM
Subject: Re: Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai-OR maybe just a better
SCANNER


> steve harris wrote:
> >
> > I agree with Cliff.  The scanner provides a much better image than the
> > digital camera.  I have used both,  and 100$ scanner is the best for the
> > buck.  OK... anyway look on Ebay or other aution area for good prices.
I
> > have used the Kodak(cheap model),  but dont remember the model number.
I do
> > remember it was the cheap one.  It produces a good image.  Shop around
for
> > one that has a good software bundel with it.  A good one should give you
at
> > least Adobe Photoshop 2.0 or higher.  Hope it helps.  Sorry I couldnt be
> > more specific about the camera.
> > meso@pamlico.net
> > Steve
>
> Well, so far the only one I've been half way impressed with is the Kodak
> 210plus at %450 from Sam's.  As for the scanners, what would you
> sugggest for a GOOD scanner in the low price ($150 area of less)?  I'm
> open for suggestions both ways.  I bought a scanner from Wal-Mart for
> around $95 that lasted less than two weeks.  Took it back and got a
> refund and swore off scanners.  But I'm sure you people are more up on
> this stuff than I am.
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 19:30:38 -0500
From: "Walker" <pwalker@megavision.com>
Subject: 67 Cutlass vs. 97  Mustang

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0088_01BEA164.E863AAC0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Raced a 97 mustang that a friend at work has(yes I know you are't =
supposed to street race).
It was really no contest. We were even through first gear, and I pulled =
away in second(as soon as I got traction 3:36 open
diff) and he never did catch up. He did however offer to race me again =
in his 89 302 mustang. However, at the insistence
of my wife,Iwill not be street racing any more.

  John

67 Cutlass CS  455/TH350

Take it to the track

- ------=_NextPart_000_0088_01BEA164.E863AAC0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Raced a 97 mustang that a friend at =
work has(yes=20
I know you are't supposed to street race).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>It was really no contest. We were =
even through=20
first gear, and I pulled away in second(as soon as I got traction 3:36=20
open</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>diff) and he never did catch up. He =
did however=20
offer to race me again in his 89 302 mustang. However, at the=20
insistence</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>of my wife,Iwill not be street =
racing any=20
more.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp; John</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>67 Cutlass CS&nbsp; =
455/TH350</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Take it to the =
track</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0088_01BEA164.E863AAC0--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 20:31:15 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Codes, Prd #'s  etc..

In a message dated 5/18/99 6:41:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
retrorockets@snet.net writes:

<< > Where do i get info on older Cutlass' and 442's.
 
 Robert,
 
 Two info sources:  "Oldsmobile 442 & W-Machines Restoration Guide" from
 Motorbooks Internationa >>

Let's not get Joe P. started on this one again.  He may have found some more 
errors. lol

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 20:34:24 EDT
From: Mikeytvb@aol.com
Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass vs. 97  Mustang

did anyone notice that all mustangs look alike?  around here we call them "me 
too cars," cause everyone has one.  when was the last time you saw 2 
oldsmobiles with the same setup under the hood?

mikeytvb@aol.com
70 442 hc

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 20:40:16 -0400
From: "mrhell" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Pulling a PS Pulley ??

<hmmmmmm how do ya change the shaft seal with the pulley on there? just
kidding>



Well I didn't say I rebuilt the whole thing, only the leaky parts!  LOL
*>)   You know, "If it's not broke............

RC Hellebuyck  -  OCA #30213
1971 4-4-2 convt
See my car and over 40 other Olds' at:
http://home.sprynet.com/~mrhell/oakbud.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 17:38:59 -0700
From: Chris Sparks <mrada@catalina-inter.net>
Subject: Re: 67 Cutlass vs. 97  Mustang

I know this isn't Olds related, however, has anyone seen one
of those new Mustang Cobra's with 450+ HP?  I think this 
thing could blow the doors off of anything we have.

Chris

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 20:41:30 -0400
From: "rkn" <rkn@ezaccess.net>
Subject: Re: Wasps! 

List,
	Thanks for all the follow ups on this thread. I have to agree that 
some of
you are...shall we say...intense. 	Anyway, I did pretty much the same 
thing
that Mike Bloomer did by reducing their numbers one at a time and then
drenching their nests with the spray. As it turned out they were solitary
buggers with little inverted cone shaped "nests". I found most of them in
the door jams (as described by others). There must also be nests in the
quarter panel extensions so I just sprayed into them through the spaces
above the tailights. (I'm not ready to pull them off yet.) This really
pi##ed them off but it gave me an excellent opportunity to get them when
they tried to return. Thanks again to all, and to some of you...and you
know who you are...get help.
				Unstung,
				R. Kevin noon
				66 Dynamic 88 Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 20:54:00 -0400
From: "mrhell" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai-OR maybe just a 
better.........MORE ADVICE

Well here's some more "expert" advice to confuse you;

I have the best of both worlds, a nice scanner and Sony digital camera
($700).  Both have their pros & cons.  If I had to pick only one, I'd have
to go with a scanner.

No matter what you choose, go to:  http://www.pricewatch.com  to get the
best deal.  Just use their search to find the model your looking for.  I
saved $110 when I bought my camera.  That's right $110 cheaper than any
store in my area and that included 2nd day shipping.

Another note, someone mentioned on this thread about using high resolution
when scanning.  NOT TRUE!  That's what you don't want to do.  For a web
site, 75 dpi - 150 dpi should be more than enough.  Raise the resolution
higher than that and all you do is raise the file size.

As for having Olds content... Aren't OLDSMOBILE'S something?!?  I love 'em!
*>)

RC Hellebuyck  -  OCA #30213
1971 4-4-2 convt
See my car and over 40 other Olds' at:
http://home.sprynet.com/~mrhell/oakbud.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 22:09:34 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Fisher "C" body gauge blocks

Not on the list, respond to Bob.Haag@digital.com

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Bob Haag <Bob.Haag@digital.com>
Subject: Fisher "C" body gauge blocks

I hope someone can help me with this.  I'm looking for the gauge blocks used
by Olds to adjust the window position on my 1975 98 Regency four door.  I'm
not in any particular hurry due to the fact the restoration is still in the
tear down stage.  I don't have the part number since I am unable to find my
Fisher body service manual for that year.  I do believe there are three
different blocks.  If someone could send me the dimensions of the blocks I
can fabricate them out of wood or some other smiliar material.  

Thank you in advance.

Bob H.

Breathing new life into Large Marge, The Party Barge.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 22:11:12 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Booster

On Mon, 17 May 1999, Wayne Schwartz wrote:
> Where can I get a new Moraine PB booster for a 70 Cutlass with power discs.
> I tried Pep Boys on the weekend.  They listed the master cylinder but not
> the booster.  Also tried other local supply houses.  I don't wan't the
> downtime associated with getting my old unit rebuilt.  My local GM dealer
> wasn't interested in giving me the time of day....not unusual since his
> staff is not of much help to restorers.  I know I've seen previous mail on
> this subject.

If someone can post the GM part # (I would but don't have a catalog) I
would think it would be pretty simple to get a dealer parts desk to punch
it up and see what availability and price would be.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 22:12:53 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Oldsmobile being given a sad farewell

Not on the list as far as I can tell, respond to brain@mail.jbrain.com

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	brain@luis.yourwebhost.com
Subject: Oldsmobile being given a sad farewell

I start this rare note to the list on a sad tone.

I have a 1979 Cutlass Supreme Brogham, with Moonroof and the pillow seats... 

I took it into the garage the other day to get it fixed up to drive (I
tinkered with the idea of restoring it someday, but not at this time), and the
mechanic (very reputable, IMHO), called with very bad news.  The car needs
thousands of dollars of work to get it back into great condition, and $1500 at
least to get it just commute ready.

I went home and discussed with my wife, and we just don't have that kind of
money to dump into the car, no matter how nice it is/was...  Right now, my new
son is pretty much my entire hobby.   I dearly wanted to keep it, but I think
it is just too far gone  (the mechanic said he didn;t think it was worth it to
put anything into it).

So, I am asking for opinions.... I feel I have two options....:

Store the car for 10 years or so, until it becomes a classic and I have more
time to decide what to do with it....

Or....

Sell the car, either as a base for a restore now, or as parts.

Does anyone have any thoughts?

I very much enjoyed this car (it was my #2 vehicle in HS), and my wife enjoys
it and the ride as well.  But, it has a number of things not going for it:

It has been in a wreck
The engine is gone (will need to the be replaced)
Mechanic says tranny is gone, will need replaced


However, as a gem for someone else, it may be worth something:
I have purchased a new interior (vinyl and good pillow seats, blue)
It has the coveted factory moonroof (with perfect glass)
rally wheels in good condition
Dash is new (got it for free, long story)

So, what do folks think I should do?  Is anyone interested in this car for a
few hundred dollars or some parts off it that would make it worthwhile to part
it out?  Do folks think I should sit on it for a few years, and then restore
it.

I appreciate any answers you may have....  

Jim Brain



- -- 
Jim Brain, Embedded System Designer, Brain Innovations, Inc. (BII) (online sig)
bii@mail.jbrain.com "Above views DO reflect my employer, since I'm my employer"
Dabbling in WWW, Embedded Systems, Old CBM computers, and Good Times!      -Me-
BII Home: http://www.jbrain.com          CBM Info: 
http://www.jbrain.com/vicug/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 21:19:26 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Just Wondering

In a message dated 5/15/99 3:42:21 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
creature48212@yahoo.com writes:

<< Hi,I don't know if anybody can answer this, but I was
 wondering how many people there is on this list. I
 guess this goes to Greg >>

Go to this web site to see info about many of the people on the list
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com/indexN.html

<<Is there a Chat Room associated with this list?>>
 
It's called Rocket Talk on Thursday nights.
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/oldschat.htm

Hope this helps.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 19:22:57 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai-OR maybe just a  
better.........MORE ADVICE

mrhell wrote:
> 
> <snip>
> Another note, someone mentioned on this thread about using high resolution
> when scanning.  NOT TRUE!  That's what you don't want to do.  For a web
> site, 75 dpi - 150 dpi should be more than enough.  Raise the resolution
> higher than that and all you do is raise the file size.

That would have been me.  I raise the resolution so after I'm done
cropping I still have enough pixels and then I reduce the resolution to
fit where I want it and then, finally, I play with the amount of JPG
compression until it looks OK.  I didn't mean to advocate high
resolutions for the final picture, I'm sorry if that was not clear.
  
I still have to reduce a lot of pictures on my web site so don't judge
me by that, I realize it sucks.
- -- 

Cliff "Not a webmiester" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 21:24:42 EDT
From: Harrell17@aol.com
Subject: Re: w-z ex.man.in72cutlass conv.

I don't suppose you know where I can get a pair of those manifolds at that 
price do you? I'm getting to put new exhaust on the car and I'm hoping not to 
"FIT" the wrong manifolds. Jim

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 21:26:26 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Olds curiosity obtained

Well, I cannot believe this, I have stooped to buying a 307 motor. Not
just any 307, though, this is a HOT ROD 307 motor. I had to buy it,
because I did not have my tools with me to remove the MT flywheel. Whoever
built this motor either was a true guru with a powerful voodoo stick, or
a totally clueless person.
  I did not even know that Hot Rod 307's EXISTED before today! Almost as
rare as the fabled ÒSolid Main Web 403Ó !
   What caught my eye first was the paint. White. White everywhere. Yep,
an all-white Olds V8 sitting there upside down. Oil pan looks good anyhow,
not dented. Big "5L" on the side of the block and them puny xst ports
was all I needed to see at first. Blew it off to scan the pile for others.
Came back, on the way out, to ck-see if maybe it has a Nodular crank-
hey, whatÕs this, a FLYWHEEL and crank is cut for pilot bearing?! Who
the... what the...? What the hell would have a MANUAL TRANS and a *307*,
not even the "good" 307, but the 7A head version! Shoot. Load her up,
investigate at home. Hey, what's this? different RACovers, hey, a
rubberized harmonic damper... 307Õs are supposed to have just a chunk
of cast iron w/o rubber for an HB! Has the 4V AL intake... ok... hmmmm...
studs in the oil pan corner bolts? Is that natural for a 307, or an
"Old Racer's Trick"?
  So, mebbe this is that infamous 478HP 307! I mean, if I was to
hot-rod a 307, I'd at least pick the 5A heads version, so this witch
doctor must know SOME VOODOO to use the small-nostril version instead!
And, what's up with the WHITE paint? Anyone who would do THAT to an
Olds motor would do other weird things, too.
  So, the investigation begins: was it a carefully crafted sleeper
powerhouse, or a collection of mismatched crap done by a dolt? What
sort of cam? Engle 400 degree roller cam!? I can hardly wait...

OK, quick inspection reveals... NO VIN STAMP! Never was one on the usual
pad. Oil fill tube MIA. No carb. Computerized HEI Dist'r #1103602-5L5
and date code on HEI module of 5K29 make this a motor of vintage June
or July 1985. Flywheel has marked in red paint pen "2 9 86" among the
bolts. No pilot bushing or bearing in it now. VERY clean exterior, like
it was JUST assembled and painted. Dipstick tube looks like new.
Even has clean oil inside it!.
Evidence that it once sported a tag on the coolant bypass hose, such
as a salvage yard would use. Long since rotted away to the anti-tear
rings and a wire.

Oh, and it still turns over!

...Crafty powerhouse in disguise, or bonehead maneuvers? :
White paint
Rubberized 350? harmonic damper
Manual trans application [did T/A's come with this or something?]
small-port 7A heads
oil pan studs, the 4 corner ones anyhow...
New fuel pump
Actual petcocks for block drains, both sides... not as cool &
   crafty as the ones I offer.. but better than plugs.

Found a Kent-Moore tool J26252 in the pile also... no '255 carbs though.
- -RS-

=====================


- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 21:24:13 -0400
From: "Kelly McCuller" <kmcculler@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: CAR ACRONYMS

You missed a couple:

FIAT
Fix it again Tony
Failure in automotive technology

PONTIAC
Poor old nut thinks it's a Cadillac


- -----Original Message-----
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas.Martin@motorola.com>
To: joe@joe.edu <joe@joe.edu>
Date: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 12:05 PM
Subject: CAR ACRONYMS


> AUDI
> Accelerates Under Demonic Influence
> Always Unsafe Designs Implemented
> All Un-informed Drivers Insulted
> All Unnecessary Devices Installed
>
> BMW
> Big Money Works
> Bought My Wife
> Brutal Money Waster
>
> BUICK
> Big Ugly Indestructable Car Killer
>
> CHEVROLET
> Can Hear Every Valve Rap On Long Extended Trips
> Cheap, Hardly Efficient, Virtually Runs On Luck Every Time
>
> DODGE
> Damn Old Dirty Gas Eater
> Drips Oil, Drops Grease Everywhere
>
> FORD
> Fix Or Repair Daily
> Found On Road, Dead
> Fast Only Rolling Downhill
>
> GM
> General Maintenance
>
> GMC
> Garage Man's Companion
>
> HONDA
> Had One Never Did Again
> Happy Owners Never Drive Anything else.
>
> HYUNDAI
> Hope You Understand Nothing's Driveable And Inexpensive?
>
> MAZDA
> Most Always Zipping Dangerously Along
>
> OLDSMOBILE
> Old Ladies Driving Slowly Make Others Behind Infuriatingly Late Every day.
> Overpriced, Leisurely Driven Sedan Made Of Buick's Irregular Leftover
>Equipment
>
> SAAB
> Send Another Automobile Back
>
> TOYOTA
> Too Often Yankees Overprice This Auto
>
> VOLVO
> Very Odd Looking Vehicular Object
>
> VW
> Virtually Worthless
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 01:52:30 -0500
From: "Charles A. Dempsey" <cdemps@lsumc.edu>
Subject: Re: Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai

Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca> wrote:

>Don Sowers wrote:
>> 
>> Sorry for the somewhat non-Olds question, but can anyone recommend a
>> good digital camera that is on the lower end of the price scale?....
>> More expensive, but the pictures should be  much better when put on
>> the net directly.  

> I don't mean to knock digital cameras, but, there is no reason that
> the pictures should be better for computer use than good scans.  

In my experience, they're not. Just more time consuming.

Scans of good quality photographs are much better than digital camera
shots. I've got a Nikon 2000, an HP IIIC scanner and a Sony Mavica 10X.
The IIIC will reproduce 35mm color shots virtually perfectly (I can't
tell the differenct anyway), but the quality of the Mavica's pictures is
pretty bad. The Mavica is also tempermental about light and shadow. If
you shoot in broad daylight with all facets of the object in full sun
you get an OK pic, but the colors are washed out. Shoot in afternoon sun
with shadows and the pictures are mottled dark blobs.

The Mavica's good for quick and dirty shots, but will never compete with
a good 35mm SLR and a scanner. OTOH, it's a lot quicker to put pictures
on the web, and there's no processing fee. I think that both have a
place, but I wish digital photography was a little more advanced right
now.

<Olds>
I use this stuff to take pictures of Oldsmobiles, and...well, uh...the
occasional *uick ;-)
</olds>

Charles

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 18:39:16 PDT
From: "mike jones" <sspazzer@hotmail.com>
Subject: EGR

I disconnected the vacuum hose leading to the EGR valve on my '78 350 in the 
Delta 88.  Was told by my auto shop instructor that I should not have a 
problem with leaving the timing at 20 btdc (factory for Calif. car) due to 
the olds motor not being as sensitive as other GM engines (was told, a chevy 
would melt a hole in the piston).  It has been disconnected on and off for 
the past month.  I don't have to worry about emissions currently (AIR pump 
needs replacing as well) and I am just thinking of retarding the timing 
about 5 degrees or so.

Any thoughts?

Mike Jones
'78 Delta 88 (350/TH350/108k)


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 21:36:13 -0700
From: "Peter Berusch" <berusch@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Digital Camera for Pix of the Cutlai-OR maybe just a better 
SCANNER

  I just got a Hewlett Packard 6200.  This thing rocks.  How about a 1200
dpi sampling scanner that scans a 3X5 color photo in 4-5 seconds?  A huge
software bundle that I'm just starting to explore.  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 18:42:21 -0500
From: Hans Naepflin <mitzm@mail.earthlinl.net>
Subject: 66 Cutlass 4 sale in LA

Please forward any questions on this car to he owner Mary Simpson
(M1erica@aol.com).  She is located in Placentia California, near
Anaheim.

66 Cutlass 2 door with 59000 original miles (the usual grandma's car
situation).
California car with black plates. No rust, some minor dings on the
body.  Older white repaint.  330, AT, AC (not working),  Buckets,
Console, Original tach on console.  VERY nice blue interior.  Engine
starts up instantly and idles butter smooth.  I didn't drive it but the
front tie rods feel a bit worn.  Car has been driven fairly regularly
for the last few years.

She wants $3500 firm.  I really don't need this car but may go for it if
no one else snags it.   A few months ago I asked the the list how much
it was worth and there were a couple of guys who showed some interest.
Here's your chance at an exceptionally clean original, unrestored car.

FYI
Hans

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 20:49:17 -0500
From: "Walker" <pwalker@megavision.com>
Subject: 76-77 Cutlass  gauge pac

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0078_01BEA16F.E558DAC0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

  While going through some old boxes,I came across some old =
parts,including
this gauge pac. It is in good cosmetic shape,cant remember how well it =
functioned.
If any one has any interest in this part at all, Email me at =
pwalker@megavision.com
Adress to john.Thanks.

   John

67 Cutlass CS  455/TH350


- ------=_NextPart_000_0078_01BEA16F.E558DAC0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp; While going through some old =
boxes,I came=20
across some old parts,including</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>this gauge pac. It is in good =
cosmetic=20
shape,cant remember how well it functioned.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>If any one has any interest in this =
part at all,=20
Email me at <A=20
href=3D"mailto:pwalker@megavision.com">pwalker@megavision.com</A></FONT><=
/DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Adress to john.Thanks.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp; John</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>67 Cutlass CS&nbsp; 455/TH350</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0078_01BEA16F.E558DAC0--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 21:46:02 -0700
From: "Peter Berusch" <berusch@mindspring.com>
Subject: Stalwart Old 98

  My little baby girl (17 years old) was out in my 69 98 LS hardtop (The
Hornet).  Wet, dark night.  A car darted out from a side street, another
driver veered to avoid the intruder and piled into the rear of The Hornet.
The Ford that hit The Hornet was wreckered off.  The Hornet's rear bumper is
mis-aligned and the quarter panel has a smush.  But, Little Girl drove off
and came home.  She said "Dad, this car is built like a tank".  I told her
that that is why she was in it.  C bodies rule.  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 21:50:40 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Retain stock or add power options?

kcseak wrote:
> 
> Hi list.
>  I have a 1964 Dynamic 88 that is all original. No power anything! It's a
> sweet car, only 70k on her. http://home.neo.lrun.com/cseak/car/ pics only.
>  My Question is....
>  Is my car more valuable 'as is' stock, or if I took ps. pb. air. power
> antenna and wonder bar from a 1964 starfire would I be raising or lowering
> the value of "The Floater"

Power Steering and Brakes may not improve the value of the car, but will
improve it's driveability and therefore make it more attractive to
prospective buyers.  You will probably enjoy the ease of power steering
and brakes while you own it, too.  A/C may improve the value some, and
again will make the car more desirable at resale and improve your
comfort while owning it.  Power antenna and wonderbar probably won't
increase value and many may not care about these items when looking to
purchase, but if you like them, put them, 'cause it's definately about
what you like, not what the next guy is gonna like or how much he's
gonna pay.  I like these item and would put them in for myself if I had
access to them.  Radio swap will be simple.  Power antenna goes on the
passenger rear 1/4 and will require a hole to be cut, and also the hole
closed up on the fender.  If you add A/C, but not the power antenna, the
manual antenna will have to be relocated to the rear 1/4 anyway to make
room for the A/C stuff under the fender.  That's how Olds did it in '63
and '64.

> Did 1964 Dynamic 88's have any power options?

They probably had power windows and 6 way power seat, power trunk
release, maybe power vent windows (maybe not) and maybe power (vacuum)
door locks (maybe not).  These were a late '64 option.  Also, there's
Cruise control, Guide-matic headlight dimmer, tilt wheel, cornering
lights, rear defogger and reverb rear speaker as well as other options. 
Go for as many as YOU like.

> Should I have the starfire engine rebuilt and put it in my car with dual
> exhaust?

You could, that would be kinda cool.  But I don't know if the Starfire
was an option in the Dynamic models.  It wasn't in '63.  Duals were an
option by themselves in these years.  As a cheap alternative you could
paint the block red, switch over the 4bbl, chrome valve covers and air
cleaner - for appearance purposes to suit yourself, but don't go selling
it to someone claiming that it's got the Starfire motor.

Again, do what YOU want, 'cause it's your car and you should be doing
for your enjoyment and not count on what you're going to get out of it
in the future.  If future money is what matters to you, get a loaded
Starfire.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 21:51:25 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Codes, Prd #'s  etc..

Robert McCarthy wrote:
> 
> Where do i get info on older Cutlass' and 442's.  I'm looking for production
> data and option code info.  Mainly for 1965 as I have a '65 442, first year
> 400 cid, 2 spd Auto.  I also would like to decipher the build/body tag on
> the firewall anyone have any of this info?  The VIN on cars this old tells
> you almost nothing.
> Thanks, Rob McCarthy
> There is no substitute for genuine lack of preparation.
> http://www.gis.net/~robm4
> mailto:robm4@gis.net
> ICQ: 12438878
> AIM: Mini 4x

Post the data plate info.  The build date is there, as well as some
option codes.  We'll decode it for you.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 21:55:40 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Trunk mat question+other babble

Greg Beaulieu wrote:
> 
> If it is like the repro trunk mat I bought from Fusicks it doesn't extend
> over that far. It is cut out in the area where the J-hook attaches so that
> the area under the spare is mostly just trunk floor metal, not mat.

Greg,

I think we're talking about 2 different mats here.  I think you're
talking about the houndstooth thin rubber mat that was standard
equipment.  I knew a guy that had a '67 and his only covered about 2/3
of the trunk, too.

I think Scott means that big, thick, black, ribbed rubber mat that was
an accessory, like in the trunk of my Ninety Eight.  My mat has an oval
molded into the back, to be cut out for use in the small cars to mount
the spare.  I don't know if the repro mats have this oval or not.  You
would think they would, since they went to the trouble to reproduce all
the other details.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 21:53:53 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Trunk mat question

In a message dated 5/18/99 3:39:01 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
ab348@chebucto.ns.ca writes:

<< If it is like the repro trunk mat I bought from Fusicks it doesn't extend
 over that far. It is cut out in the area where the J-hook attaches so that
 the area under the spare is mostly just trunk floor metal, not mat. 
  >>

I agree with Greg.  I just got one today from Year One.  I had to get a 68, 
the 69 is discontinued but the 68 should fit I hope.  It ends on the right 
side where the J-Hook goes and has a V-shaped notch cut out.  It was all 
folded up so I'm going to let it sit out for a few days and will put it in 
this weekend.  I think I'll let it sit out in sun first before I put it in, 
that may help take out some of the creases. Anybody have any other ideas on 
how to get it smooth.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 22:04:56 EDT
From: CUTLASS442@aol.com
Subject: Re: CAR ACRONYMS

In a message dated 5/19/99 1:29:20 AM !!!First Boot!!!, 
kmcculler@worldnet.att.net writes:

<< 
 PONTIAC
 Poor old nut thinks it's a Cadillac
  >>


I heard this one a differant way........i like this one better though.....

richard
1967 "Oldsmobuick" Cutlass

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 22:06:21 EDT
From: Knightvd@aol.com
Subject: Re: Dynomax Headers

In a message dated 5/18/99 2:49:49 PM Central Daylight Time, 
rockman20@yahoo.com writes:

<< Has anyone used the Dynomax Jet-Hot coated headers? I
 see that Jeg's has em for 259 bucks and that includes
 gaskets, reducers, and all the nuts and bolts needed.
 I know that a lot of people have told me to go with
 Hooker, but they are pretty spendy with their thermal
 barrier coating and they don't come with any of the
 reducers or anything. Anybody have any beef with the
 Dynomax? They say they are guarenteed for life.
 
 As always,
 TIA, >>
I have Dynomax on my 455 71 Cutlass Convert.  They fit OK.  I had to ding 
them in a couple of places, notably near the oil filter and for some added 
clearance by the steering shaft.  Mine are not the Jet Hot coated ones 
however.  If you have to ding the new ones you might be damaging the coating. 
 I thought about getting a new set "adjusting" them, then having them coated. 
 

Vince Knight
71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 22:22:17 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: 455 Into Vista Cruiser-Manifolds & Valve Covers?

Hello all,

Sometime this summer I'm going to be swapping the 98's 455 into the
Vista Cruiser and I want to be sure I'm clear on what needs to be done:

- -It's a `73 455 completely stock although it may see a hone job, new
rings, bearings, cam, and maybe `68-`72 Toro heads...Very basic
overhaul.  The engine's in great shape as it is and I'm considering just
dropping it in and running it for 30,000 or so.  But since it's out,
mightaswell change that timing chain.  Since the pan's off for the
timing chain, mightaswell peek at thoes bearings....You know.

Valve covers:  I need special valve covers with notches in to clear the
air conditioner and brake booster, correct?  What are my options?

Exhaust Manifolds:  Are the X-Y manifolds absolutely neccesary?  I'd
like to find some cheaper and more readily availible manifolds if
possible.  Or use the ones on it, but they'll run into the frame or
something similar, correct?  The present 350 small block has duals with
stock capped single exhaust manifolds.  Any chance of getting these
pipes to bolt up to the 455?  They will soon need replacing anyway but
it would be nice not to have to pony up the cash for another few
months.  

I appreciate any advice and comments.

Thanks in advance,

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Crusier 
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais
73 98 LS

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 22:34:33 -0400
From: "R. Grant" <kgrant442@home.com>
Subject: 15" Olds Rims

I picked up a set of 442 rims for my 80 Cutlass they were in sad shape but
with some work 2 of them look good 1 is OK and 1 is still in bad shape so I
picked up a set of 15" Olds rims so that I could replace the one bad rim
that I have. I then had 255/60/15 BFG'S mounted on the rear, as I was
driving home I noticed a rubbing noise coming from the one rear tire when I
went around a corner. I pulled over and I had one wheel rubbing on the back
of the wheelwell by the frame noticed that the 15" Olds rims that I picked
up have a different offset than the 442 rims by about 1/4-1/2 inch man was I
POed had to put the 442 rim on that looks like trash. Plus I find out that
with the right rims on that the rear end is still off about 7/8" so now I
will have to spend about 500-800 just to have the car straightened. Didn't
notice this with the 14" tires on the car. Just not my week why would Olds
have the same rims but with different offsets ?
and does anyone have some 442 rims kicking around don't have to be in mint
condition?

Kevin Grant
80 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 22:47:54 -0400
From: "Robert F. McCarthy" <robm4@gis.net>
Subject: Re: Codes, Prd #'s  etc..

OK here goes:
Motor casting #:  389298B  -   442.com says 65 only 400 cid
VIN:  338375M320839  -   already got 442.com breakdown.

Body tag off firewall (forgive poor rendition)
             04D                               S
ST-6533837  LAN  20941     BODY
TR954-B             V-V               PAINT
EXT  3D
4V  5FW

               Body By Fisher

Any input would be appreciated.
BTW:  I got a TH-400 going in soon, no more 2-Spd Jet-Away. Anyone got a
yoke for it?


- ----- Original Message -----
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
To: <robm4@gis.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 18, 1999 10:12 AM
Subject: Re: Codes, Prd #'s etc..


>
> Hi Robert,
>
> Robert McCarthy wrote:
> >
> > Where do i get info on older Cutlass' and 442's.  I'm looking for
production
> > data and option code info.
>
> Oldsmobile lost most of this info back in '73 or so during a move (often
also
> attributed to a fire) so it's not as available as the info for Poncho's
and
> Chebbies.  I'm sure someone will respond who has some info though.
>
> > Mainly for 1965 as I have a '65 442, first year
> > 400 cid, 2 spd Auto.
>
> Nice car, nice engine, too bad about the tranny :)  Sorry, just not my
favorite
> automatic.
>
> > I also would like to decipher the build/body tag on
> > the firewall anyone have any of this info?
>
> Post it to the list and you will get an answer.
>
> > The VIN on cars this old tells
> > you almost nothing.
>
> I'm surprised it tells as much as it does, Olds could have just generated
> sequential numbers for each plant and used that.
>
> BTW: Your biking pictures go me thinking about firing up the dirt bike.
We
> used to jump off of gravel piles.  Nothing eats chains like running them
in
> gravel :(
>
> Have a good week,
> --
>
> Cliff "Chainring" Simpson
> mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
> '69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
> http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 21:42:29 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: 15" Olds Rims

_I_ don't know what "offset" is.  Can somebody explain it to me S-L-O-W-L-Y?

At 10:34 PM 5/18/99 -0400, you wrote:
>I picked up a set of 442 rims for my 80 Cutlass they were in sad shape but
>with some work 2 of them look good 1 is OK and 1 is still in bad shape so I
>picked up a set of 15" Olds rims so that I could replace the one bad rim
>that I have. I then had 255/60/15 BFG'S mounted on the rear, as I was
>driving home I noticed a rubbing noise coming from the one rear tire when I
>went around a corner. I pulled over and I had one wheel rubbing on the back
>of the wheelwell by the frame noticed that the 15" Olds rims that I picked
>up have a different offset than the 442 rims by about 1/4-1/2 inch man was I
>POed had to put the 442 rim on that looks like trash. Plus I find out that
>with the right rims on that the rear end is still off about 7/8" so now I
>will have to spend about 500-800 just to have the car straightened. Didn't
>notice this with the 14" tires on the car. Just not my week why would Olds
>have the same rims but with different offsets ?
>and does anyone have some 442 rims kicking around don't have to be in mint
>condition?
>
>Kevin Grant
>80 Cutlass Supreme
> 
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -------------
Brian Ammons	ICQ - 3585737
5606 Grape		b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
Houston, TX 77096	http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
			Home:	713-776-2110
1984 Oldsmobile	Pager:	713-318-5938
	Delta 88 RB
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- --------------

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1965
*********************************

