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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1977


oldsmobile-digest        Tuesday, May 25 1999        Volume 01 : Number 1977



'68 Cutlass grille needed
PCV vs. breather
PCV vs. breather
Re: PCV vs. breather
Re: to guy seeking conv rear 1/4 trims
re: Transmission shift points
Re: POR-15
Re: POR-15
Restoreable 1968 Ninety Eight Luxury Sedan
The best Rotors
Re: MY CARBURATOR IS LEAKING FUEL ONTO MY INTAKE MANIF
Re: POR-15
Re: Transmission shift points
Re: POR-15 / Chassis Coat black
Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?
BMW Driving Experience
Re: POR-15
Re: I need heads for my olds 455
Re: PCV vs. breather
Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breather)
Re: PCV vs. breather
Re: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breather)
Re: PCV vs. breather
Re: OCA Nats Meeting ?
Re: R12 A/C System thoughts...(ramblings)
Re: Digester needs help!
Re: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breather)
Re: garage floor(non-olds)
Re: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breather)
Re: Digester needs help!
1972 Buick 350 into 1985 Olds?
Flexplate question.
Re: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breather)
Re: garage floor(non-olds)
brake booster
Re: 1972 Buick 350 into 1985 Olds?
Test
RE: window cleaner
re:garage floor(non-olds)
Re: 1972 Buick 350 into 1985 Olds?
Re: 77 wont start
Sorry to interrupt here.... was: New Website, need all your help with this one!
Re:~My~Carburetor~Is~Leaking~Fuel~Onto~My~Intake~Manifold~!!
Re: The best Rotors
Re: Flexplate question.
Re: Happy99 Virus
Re: ~We~Need~an~Oldsmobile~Big~Body~Club~
Re: ~We~Need~an~Oldsmobile~Big~Body~Club~
Re: OCA Nats Meeting ?
Re: garage floor(non-olds)
Re: Sorry to interrupt here.... was: New Website, need all your help with this 
one!
~We~Don't~Need~an~Oldsmobile~Big~Body~Club~
Re: POR-15
Re: Sorry to interrupt here.... was: New Website, need all your help  with 
this one!
Re: PCV vs. breather
Re: ~We~Need~an~Oldsmobile~Big~Body~Club~
79 Cutlass Supreme
1971 Olds 442 (fwd)
Re: The best Rotors
Re: The best Rotors
RE: POR-15
Repair Ineptitude, Chapter 984
Re: The best Rotors
Re: POR-15 / Chassis Coat black

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 23:08:27 -0700
From: Jim Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: '68 Cutlass grille needed

My same neighbor who has the D-88 is in need of a Cutlass grille for his 
68.  All we've come across is 442 grilles.  Can anyone suggest 
anything?  My last Fusick's catalog only lists a 442 grille (did I overlook 
something)?

Thanks in advance.



"Lisa Madsen" <Lisa@hotglass.com>

Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile - Home Page
http://exo.com/~jht/olds/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 02:25:19 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: PCV vs. breather

When installing an aftermarket intake such as the Edelbrock Performer 455,
is it better to drill the intake and install a PCV? Or could the breathers
in the valve covers work OK for crankcase fumes?

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 02:25:19 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: PCV vs. breather

When installing an aftermarket intake such as the Edelbrock Performer 455,
is it better to drill the intake and install a PCV? Or could the breathers
in the valve covers work OK for crankcase fumes?

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 01:54:45 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: PCV vs. breather

> When installing an aftermarket intake such as the Edelbrock Performer 455,
> is it better to drill the intake and install a PCV? Or could the breathers
> in the valve covers work OK for crankcase fumes?

Well, the PCV system involves two external parts, the breather filter, and the
vacuum supply (so-to-speak.)  The breather can theoretically be anywhere, but 
is
usually on one of the valve covers (Or should I say RAC's, since CBW is back...
;)  The vacuum side usually is supplied by the carb, running a line to the 
other
valve cover, with the PCV valve inserted in it.  Now, I'm not sure why you'd
need to drill anything on the intake, unless your old one got the vacuum from
that.  If you're not concerned with originality (which is obvious, considerring
the aftermarket intake) then I'd find a carb with PCV provisions.

Or go with a crankcase evacuation system, if local emissions laws will allow. 
That'll clear the crankcase without alterring the air/fuel charge.  I've seen
'em, but never used 'em myself.  

The PCV system, by theory, should have the breather (fresh air inlet) opposite
the PCV valve (Valve on one cover, breather plumbed to other one)  This is to
help remove all vapors in the engine.  I seem to remember seeing some valve
covers with two holes in 'em, somewhere.  The only reason I mention. 

- -- 
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://drive.to/Oldsmagnet    See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 06:02:14 -0400
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: to guy seeking conv rear 1/4 trims

Chris - would those be for a '68/'69?  (I was the guy requesting to the list 
but I
need them for my '69) Thanks!
Todd

Chris Brown Witt wrote:

> someone recently wrote asking about convertible rear 1/4 trims, latest JWO 
has
> some....
>
> --
> Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
> Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
> --
> 517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
> Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 06:26:55 -0400
From: "Lawrence A. Biasotto" <lbiasotto@ce.net>
Subject: re: Transmission shift points

Mike,
Thanks for the reply.  My 71 olds shifts at 50mph during what I would
call "light" acceleration.  We have lots of roads with 35MPH speed
limits, (with radar).  So I drive a lot around 40MPH.  The car does not
shift into 3rd when cruising at 40 but feels like it should.
Is this normal?
350, 4bbl, th350,2.56,14x7 SSII
Larry Biasotto

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 05:05:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: POR-15

>Has anyone ever used POR-15 products? If so how did they work?
>
>Heath
>1970 442
>1972 Cutlass Supreme

 Yup, POR-15 is a great product.  I used it on the inside of my bumpers
and on my buddy's oil pan(it had pin holes in it) and it worked great
on both of them, and it sealed the pinholes very well.  It's really
durable too.

Stefan
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
70Cutlass@Beer.com
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 05:05:55 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: POR-15

>Has anyone ever used POR-15 products? If so how did they work?
>
>Heath
>1970 442
>1972 Cutlass Supreme

 Yup, POR-15 is a great product.  I used it on the inside of my bumpers
and on my buddy's oil pan(it had pin holes in it) and it worked great
on both of them, and it sealed the pinholes very well.  It's really
durable too.

Stefan
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
70Cutlass@Beer.com
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 08:02:28 -0400
From: "H. Finley Downes" <hfdownes@earthlink.net>
Subject: Restoreable 1968 Ninety Eight Luxury Sedan

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BEA684.EF092380
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Hi Folks:

Apt. car port blew down on my restored '98 15 yrs. ago. Damage to hood, =
front fenders, some top dents, etc.  Been inside storage since.  Very =
easily restorable.  Was always going to do it, but have lost interest. I =
have most required parts ( NOS ).  Anyone interested?  Best offer in 30 =
days gets it before salvage yard.

Regards:
H. FINLEY DOWNES
Tel 440 238 9167
Cell 727 808 8124

- ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BEA684.EF092380
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3401" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#008080 size=3D2><STRONG>Hi =
Folks:</STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#008080 size=3D2><STRONG>Apt. car port blew down on =
my restored=20
'98&nbsp;15 yrs. ago. Damage to hood, front fenders, some top dents, =
etc.&nbsp;=20
Been inside storage since.&nbsp; Very easily restorable.&nbsp;&nbsp;Was =
always=20
going to do it, but have lost interest. I have most required parts ( NOS =

).&nbsp; Anyone interested?&nbsp; Best offer in 30 days gets it before =
salvage=20
yard.</STRONG></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><STRONG><FONT color=3D#008080 size=3D2>Regards:<BR>H. FINLEY =
DOWNES<BR>Tel 440=20
238 9167<BR>Cell 727 808 8124</FONT></STRONG></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_001B_01BEA684.EF092380--

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 07:05:12 -0500
From: "Johnson, Samuel" <SJohnso6@allstate.com>
Subject: The best Rotors

Who makes the best rotors for you car.  And what would be the difference in
the best rotor and an average rotor?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 05:44:45 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: MY CARBURATOR IS LEAKING FUEL ONTO MY INTAKE MANIF

> > >_I replaced the fuel pump 3 months ago and i went
> to my mechanic
> today and he said I need to rebuild or replace my
> carburator. it will
> run me $150.00 plus labor. not too bad. Ed from
> Queens,
============================

Just beware of who works on it. I have found that
there is not ONE place here in Fargo that I would take
my car to unless I totally have to. I took my
Quadrajet to a reputable speed shop here in town.
(They are the biggest and very well known here.) They
did a beautiful job. They replaced the throttle
bushings and shaved the base to get it square and they
re-coated the whole thing so it is a coppery looking
color. But, I get it back on the car and it leaked!
Right from the air horn gasket. I brought it back and
they said that was normal! I argued with the guy for
about 10 minutes and finally got pissed and just left
and fixed it myself. Another one of those shops I put
in my "Never go there again" book.
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 06:46:59 -0600
From: "ed" <ed@techniflite.com>
Subject: Re: POR-15

If POR-15 works so well sealing a leaky oil pan, how about a leaky intake
manifold? LOL
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 1999 6:05 AM
Subject: Re: POR-15


> >Has anyone ever used POR-15 products? If so how did they work?
> >
> >Heath
> >1970 442
> >1972 Cutlass Supreme
>
>  Yup, POR-15 is a great product.  I used it on the inside of my bumpers
> and on my buddy's oil pan(it had pin holes in it) and it worked great
> on both of them, and it sealed the pinholes very well.  It's really
> durable too.
>
> Stefan
> 1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
> 70Cutlass@Beer.com
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 05:53:02 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Transmission shift points

Are you shifting it manually or letting the
transmission shift? Mine shifts WAY too early if I am
trying to get off the line quick and it is in drive.
It shifts at about 20 with the pedal to the floor. It
bogs pretty good then. It's been a while since I drove
my 69 Cutlass 350/th350 but I think that shifting at
50 isn't bad at all. I think that when I shift
manually (and getting on it) I will shift from first
to second at about 35-40 MPH and then from second to
third at about 60-65 MPH. Don't quote me on the
exactness of the MPH's since it's been close to a year
since I've driven it now.

- --- "Lawrence A. Biasotto" <lbiasotto@ce.net> wrote:
> I have a 71 Supreme with 350, 4bbl, th350, 2:56 open
> rear.  At what MPH
> range should I expect to shift from 1 to 2, and from
> 2 to 3?  Presently
> I dont shift from 2 to 3 until 50 mph.  Although the
> shift is smooth,
> shifting at 50mph seems high.  The car is also slow
> to engage from Park
> to 1 when the car is first started.  No problem
> after the first go. 
> Tran fluid has recently been drained and changed but
> had no effect.  Is
> this normal? Thanks.
> 
> Larry Biasotto
> 71 CS conv.
> 71 CS/SX conv.
> 

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 05:57:36 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: POR-15 / Chassis Coat black

- --- Dan Williams <442much@home.com> wrote:
> I have used all of the POR-15 paints and found them
> to work very well,
> except for the chassis coat black.  Has anybody else
> used this?  When I
> painted my frame with it, it went on very thick and
> did not smooth out,
> thus leaving brush strokes.  The POR-15 did not do
> that when applied. 
> It look great with the POR-15 coat, and the chassis
> coat top coat ruined
> it.  I'm going to call the folkes at POR-15 and see
> what they say. 
> Also, I noticed that the POR-15 did not stand up to
> chipping as
> advertised, I was able to easily chip it.  
===============================

Has anyone used an air gun and sprayed POR-15 on? How
hard is it to clean up the gun after that? Do they
have the dillution ratio on the can? (I should have my
POR-15 this week. :-)
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 09:06:00 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Intake Sealing Tricks?

At 09:12 PM 5/24/99 EDT, you wrote:
>In a message dated 5/24/99 4:50:39 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
>ggilpin@wrallp.com writes:
>
><< Hell, why not just weld it on. Then it will never leak.
> 
> Omega Man
>  >>
>I can't wait to see your Omegas when they are finished.  lol
>
>Lou Principe
>69 442 W-30
>


I Love to weld. I'll have 2 of the strongest Omegas on the face of planet
Earth :)

Omega Man

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 08:28:12 -0500
From: "Shane" <sgibreal@nctc.net>
Subject: BMW Driving Experience

Hey evrybody,
I've been off the list a while but recieved this post from another list
and thought some of you may be interested.

Shane Gibreal
sgibreal@nctc.net


I have some information I hope some of y'all can make use of.  Last week
I was able
to go to the BMW Ultimate Driving Experience.  It is a free 2 hour class

that teaches basic high performance driving skills.  The first 30 min.
or so are in a classroom setting, then the rest of the time is in a new
3 Series with a professional driver.  You get to take about 10 laps and
get feedback the whole time.  And they stress NYC & NYT (not your car &
not your tires) so don't worry about hitting cones or burning rubber.
    The dates left for this year are in the northeast, Boston, D.C., and

Philly. You can get Info etc. at www.bmwusa.com .  It was definitely a
great experience and hopefully a few of ya'll will be able to go.
- --

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 09:37:02 -0400
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: POR-15

I painted it on some clean bare metal (no rust) and it stuck well.

- -----Original Message-----

<snip>

>2) it stands for Paint Over Rust. It won't stick to anything but
>rusty metal. the rustier the better.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:13:31 EDT
From: Oldsfire@aol.com
Subject: Re: I need heads for my olds 455

Greg, go to www.442.com and look for "C" heads, preferrably the big valve C 
heads!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:02:15 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: PCV vs. breather

When installing an aftermarket intake such as the Edelbrock Performer 455,
is it better to drill the intake and install a PCV? Or could the breathers
in the valve covers work OK for crankcase fumes?
_______

I'm a little confused here.  Are you talking about drilling the intake between
the runners for a PCV valve (like the W-30 manifolds)?  If so, then the PCV in
the valve cover will work fine.  I wouldn't drill the Edelbrock, as you run the
risk of a sealing problem.  If you're talking about drilling into the intake
runners as a vacuum source for the PCV, then I have to echo Charlie's question
of why don't you just use a carb with the PCV tap on it?  And if you're asking
if you need to run a PCV at all if you have breathers in the valve covers, then
the answer is yes.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 07:23:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breather)

Joe wrote:
<snip>  And if you're asking
> if you need to run a PCV at all if you have
> breathers in the valve covers, then
> the answer is yes.
===========================

I've always been confused on this part here. I just
ordered the Holley polished aluminum M/T valve covers
from Summit. They look like they don't have a breather
on either of them. How does this work? Don't you need
some type of a vent in there? 
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:24:58 -0400
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: PCV vs. breather

To add to the confusion . . .
Why do you need PCV at all (aside from emissions laws)? The older cars
didn't have them. I know of people who have eliminated them with no
*immediate or apparent* problems. I was just going to use breathers, but
when Joe speaks, I listen . . .
Tell us, please.

Ed

- -----Original Message-----


<snip>


>And if you're asking
>if you need to run a PCV at all if you have breathers in the valve covers,
then
>the answer is yes.
>
>Joe Padavano

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:29:12 -0400
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breather)

This one I can answer! The M/T Valve covers have a punch out hole in them. I
have two sets on for use and one for sale (hint, hint, everyone).

- -----Original Message-----

>
>I've always been confused on this part here. I just
>ordered the Holley polished aluminum M/T valve covers
>from Summit. They look like they don't have a breather
>on either of them. How does this work? Don't you need
>some type of a vent in there?
>===
>Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
>rockman20@yahoo.com
>1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
>1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
>1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
>(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
>_________________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 09:29:10 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: PCV vs. breather

I second the other guys here. Don't drill your intake. You will mess it 
up. It is pretty thin at the points where no factory holes / threads are 
and you will not be able to get a long enough thread...

The performer manifold calls itself a "stock replacement" part. This 
means that you should be able to slap it on together with your original 
carb ... if you have trouble with your carb, consider the edelbrock Q-jet 
(bolts right on) or the edelbrock performer series carb (which has a pvc 
tap.)

Regards, George

- ---------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
- ---------------------

On Tue, 25 May 1999 Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:

> When installing an aftermarket intake such as the Edelbrock Performer 455,
> is it better to drill the intake and install a PCV? Or could the breathers
> in the valve covers work OK for crankcase fumes?
> _______
> 
> I'm a little confused here.  Are you talking about drilling the intake 
between
> the runners for a PCV valve (like the W-30 manifolds)?  If so, then the PCV 
in
> the valve cover will work fine.  I wouldn't drill the Edelbrock, as you run 
the
> risk of a sealing problem.  If you're talking about drilling into the intake
> runners as a vacuum source for the PCV, then I have to echo Charlie's 
question
> of why don't you just use a carb with the PCV tap on it?  And if you're 
asking
> if you need to run a PCV at all if you have breathers in the valve covers, 
then
> the answer is yes.
> 
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
> 
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 69 442
> 70 W-30
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:06:02 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: OCA Nats Meeting ?

K;
Baths are required for both you and SOM. 
Lou

> From: KarlAunan@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:18:52 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: R12 A/C System thoughts...(ramblings)

Stephen;
Much discussion about this, I personally like R12, don't like R134. many
differing opinions here, but I spend the extra buck for R12.
Lou (Master) Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
oca#31353

- ----------
> From: Reed, Stephen <sreed@chatsworth.com>
> To: 'Olds' <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: R12 A/C System thoughts...(ramblings)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:22:17 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Digester needs help!

Lou (Master) Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net


- ----------
> From: Master Costanzo <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
> To: Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Digester needs help!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 08:28:35 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breather)

So, do you need those vents?

- --- Ed Binnix <comid@jellico.com> wrote:
> This one I can answer! The M/T Valve covers have a
> punch out hole in them. I
> have two sets on for use and one for sale (hint,
> hint, everyone).
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> >
> >I've always been confused on this part here. I just
> >ordered the Holley polished aluminum M/T valve
> covers
> >from Summit. They look like they don't have a
> breather
> >on either of them. How does this work? Don't you
> need
> >some type of a vent in there?
> >===
> >Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
> >rockman20@yahoo.com
> >1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
> >1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big
> Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
> >1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey
> Ferguson Snowmobile
> >(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
>
>_________________________________________________________
> >Do You Yahoo!?
> >Get your free @yahoo.com address at
> http://mail.yahoo.com
> >
> >
> 
> 
> 
> 

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:28:09 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: garage floor(non-olds)

Steve;
Muratic acid, just wash it down good after. May need a couple of
applications depending on how dirty the floor is. It also etches the
concrete to allow the paint to adhere better. Avail is most hdw stores,
mixing instructions are on bottle.
Lou

- ----------
From: steve harris <meso@pamlico.net>
To: Olds E-mail Ring <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: garage floor(non-olds)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:13:59 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breather)

> So, do you need those vents?

You have to vent the crank case. If you don't do so, pressure will build 
up and you will have oil leaking everywhere!

Regards, George

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:38:39 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Digester needs help!

Sorry;
Last post should have been private.
Lou

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 11:45:32 -0400
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@pa.net>
Subject: 1972 Buick 350 into 1985 Olds?

Here's the delemma.
I have a 1972-74 Buick 350 sitting in the garage.
It worked fine when removed last year...
The 1985 Cutlass 305 has given up
the ghost ... gallon of oil a week...

Will the 74 Buick 350 slide into the 85 Olds ...
bolt to the 85 transmission ...
or ... allow a 74 350 TH Tranny to bolt up.

List assist greatly appreciated ...

Ken Swick
swickka@pa.net 

Ken Swick
swickka@pa.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:48:48 -0500
From: "Ian M. C. Dixon" <iand@sbrc.UManitoba.CA>
Subject: Flexplate question.

Olds dudes;

A simple one for y'all... Is the flexplate from a 1982 Olds 307 
similar if not identical to the flexplate from a 1977 Olds 403?

Is the external balancing the same on these flexplates, i.e, is the 
mass and placement the same?

My guess is that all common Olds SBs use the 166 tooth design 
(307, 350, 403).

Thanks,

Ian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 08:52:25 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Valve cover breathers (Was:Re: PCV vs. breather)

That's what I thought. Thanks. :-)

- --- George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu> wrote:
> 
> > So, do you need those vents?
> 
> You have to vent the crank case. If you don't do so,
> pressure will build 
> up and you will have oil leaking everywhere!
> 
> Regards, George
> 

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 08:56:06 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: garage floor(non-olds)

I think that I saw that the makers of POR-15 also make
a floor covering? Or at least a concrete covering?

- --- Lou Biggs <lbiggs@intertek.net> wrote:
> Steve;
> Muratic acid, just wash it down good after. May need
> a couple of
> applications depending on how dirty the floor is. It
> also etches the
> concrete to allow the paint to adhere better. Avail
> is most hdw stores,
> mixing instructions are on bottle.
> Lou
> 
> ----------
> From: steve harris <meso@pamlico.net>
> To: Olds E-mail Ring <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: garage floor(non-olds)
> 
> 

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 17:54:10 -0700
From: kanters <kanters@kpd.nl>
Subject: brake booster

Hi,

Anyone got a decent brake booster for a '72 cutlass supreme ?

Thanx,
Ron

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 12:04:35 -0400
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: 1972 Buick 350 into 1985 Olds?

Yikes! So you have an Oldsmobile with a Chevy engine in it, that you want to
replace  with a Buick engine . . .
Would that make it an . . . Oldbuvelet? Chebumobile? Oldchevik? Boldchevet?
Buroletmobile?

Perhaps models would be better?
Cutmalark? Montecutlark? Skymontecut?

Oh well, the answer is (drumroll please) . . . Yes, the Buick 350 will fit
in the Oldsmobile in place of the Chevy motor (whew). You will need the
Buick motor mounts and possibly perches too. I believe the late '70's mounts
will work. I had a 72 Skylark and the 350 felt pretty strong in that
especially for a 2bbl motor. It was no race car, but I had no problem
lighting up the tires.

Still, the Olds 350 (or bigger ;-) would be better.

Ed

- -----Original Message-----

>Will the 74 Buick 350 slide into the 85 Olds ...
>bolt to the 85 transmission ...
>or ... allow a 74 350 TH Tranny to bolt up.
>
>List assist greatly appreciated ...
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 09:50:53 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Test

Need to test my new service provider...
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- -------------
Brian Ammons	ICQ - 3585737
5606 Grape		b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
Houston, TX 77096	http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
			Home:	713-776-2110
1984 Oldsmobile	Pager:	713-318-5938
	Delta 88 RB
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- --------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 11:15:50 -0500
From: Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com
Subject: RE: window cleaner

Use lint free cloth diapers instead of newspaper!!!

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	LOUS69W30@aol.com [SMTP:LOUS69W30@aol.com]
> Sent:	Sunday, May 23, 1999 9:44 AM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	Re: window cleaner
> 
> In a message dated 5/21/99 8:13:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
> david.cullen@snet.net writes:
> 
> << I hear that Rain-X is great stuff afterward...gotta try some. >>
> 
> Rain-X is really good.  It works just like the ads say.  Water beeds
> up and 
> runs off, you don't have to use your wipers much.  The only thing that
> keeps 
> me from using it more often is the procedure to apply it. 
> 
> You apply it once.  Wait until it develops a film on the windshield,
> then 
> apply it again.  Then you clean it off with a wet cloth.  Then dry and
> clean 
> the windshield one more time.  For it to be most effective they
> recommend 
> that you apply it once a month.  I never seem to have the time.
> 
> In a message dated 5/22/99 9:08:32 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
> hurstolds@duesouth.net writes:
> 
> <<  With this, I use old newspaper to wipe with,
>  although a drawback is newsprint on your hands.... >>
> 
> I agree newspaper is very good to use when cleaning windows.  It
> doesn't 
> leave any lint like paper towels.  But you do have to wash your hands
> right 
> away, so you don't get any newprint on your nice clean car.
> 
> Lou Principe
> 69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 11:13:42 -0500
From: Brett Chaveriat <brett@mcs.com>
Subject: re:garage floor(non-olds)

	This topic was thoroughly discussed on the Impala digest.  Multiple
people in this business pointed out that the quality of a painted 
finish is directly related to the detail of the prep, and the cost of
the materials used.  They also mentioned that it is nearly impossible
for lay people to put down a finish that is completely immune to 
the harsh environment of a garage (fluids and moving tires.  They 
said that the stuff sold at local home centers will not hold up.  
It must be a multi-part epoxy.  Somebody had a really neat alternative.  
He suggested floor tiles.  Just get cheap composition floor tiles.  
He used black and white ones in a checkerboard pattern.  The advantages 
to this are that it is really easy to prep and install, it has 
insulating properties, damaged areas can be just replaced (just 
remember to buy extras), it is a LOT cheaper than any effective paint 
solutions. I imagine it would look pretty neat also.  He did 
mention that he had some fade on the tiles near the door from
the sun.


- -- 

Brett Chaveriat
72 Cutlass Supreme conv't 
96 Impala SS - rear ended, maybe totalled (snif, snif)


>   Subject: garage floor(non-olds)
> 
> 
>   I am getting ready to clean out the garage,  and the floor needs =
> paint.  I have seen adds for some stuff from sears(I think).  I was =
> looking for any suggestions for a good product to clean and paint the =
> floor with.  You can send ideas to me direct if its not kosher to post =
> it.
>   meso@pamlico.net
>   Steve

mailto:brett@mcs.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 12:38:01 -0400
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@pa.net>
Subject: Re: 1972 Buick 350 into 1985 Olds?

Ed ;;;

My kids call it the Beast ....
I call it my Camermobile ... I quess
I'll have to change that name ...
   Maybe La Saber-lass  

Thanks      Ken Swick
swickka@pa.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 12:34:45 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: 77 wont start

In a message dated 99-05-24 21:27:38 EDT, you write:

<< If it's not the safety switch then run a hot wire from the positive
 battery terminal and touch it to the paper clip >>

Or directly to the appropriate terminal.
Karl agrees with this method and has used it previously as he had a rotted 
wire harness connection to the leads that ran to the starter.
A friend in the front seat to give gas whilst cranking, and Karl makes the 
connection between batt and starter.
(Allus kept a good length of 12-14 guage solid copper wire in toolbox since 
had bad ground problems, came in right handy there! Woulda hated an 
interstate towing!)

<< you've jammed into that connector.  If the engine cranks the problem is 
either the ignition switch or the wiring running to and from it. If it 
doesn't crank the engine then it's in the wiring between the safety switch 
and the starter. >>

Also forgot the wire harness problem in previous posting.
Had an intermittent idiot-lights-all-come-on-but-no-cranking problem that was 
solely due to the corroded wire harness contacts in the 30+ year old SOM.
Bypass the original contacts, no problem.

Your problem may be elsewhere...

SOM

&KA  <---- towing insurance rules!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 12:42:07 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Sorry to interrupt here.... was: New Website, need all your help with 
this one!

Sorry to interrupt here but..:

<< New list member (relatively speaking) shamelessly sucking up to Joe
 "anything less than 400 cubes is a lawnmower engine" P.   :)
 Good luck on your site.  And sorry Joe, but I couldn't resist it....
 _________
 
 Sorry?  Heck, I couldn't have said it better myself!  ;-) >>

Not our place here, but clarification is needed.
Mr. Sowers was not in any way referencing ~riding~ lawnmowers.

We now return you to normal Oldsmobilia.....

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 12:52:29 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re:~My~Carburetor~Is~Leaking~Fuel~Onto~My~Intake~Manifold~!!

In a message dated 99-05-24 20:55:05 EDT, you write:

<<  I replaced the fuel pump 3 months ago and i went to my mechanic today and 
he said I need to rebuild or replace my carburator. it will run me $150.00 
plus labor. not too bad. Ed from Queens, >>

Ed,
 $150 sounds like a raw deal.
More to the point, it sounds like getting a refurbished carb with yours as a 
trade in.

Can assure you that that is a good $100 wasted.
And Karl (from Chicago) knows that a New Yorker has other obligations to put 
that $100 to.

Ed, if you are at all mechanically inclined, you are certainly up to the 
challenge.

Hell, Karl has all sorts of 2GC carbs lying around here!
Willing to send you any hardware you may need, at ~minimal~ cost.
(compared to $150)
(((Send buisiness-type querys directly to KarlAunan@aol.com)))

Did the mech say what exactly was leaking?

Good Luck!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 13:11:28 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: The best Rotors

In a message dated 99-05-25 08:11:11 EDT, you write:

<< Who makes the best rotors for you car.  And what would be the difference in
 the best rotor and an average rotor? >>

Well, Karl's recent experience is that Accel was good, save for unexplained 
failure in one rotor. A brand called KEM (still more ???s) has a rotor that 
looks identical (and more ???? there), and will be touted by sales blokes as 
being just as good. Karl would not even think of it. An Accel lookalike??

Karl is very willing to try other brands given the above.

Anyone?

SOM

&KA

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 13:11:41 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Flexplate question.

In a message dated 5/25/99 8:50:11 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
iand@sbrc.UManitoba.CA writes:

<< A simple one for y'all... Is the flexplate from a 1982 Olds 307 
 similar if not identical to the flexplate from a 1977 Olds 403?
 
 Is the external balancing the same on these flexplates, i.e, is the 
 mass and placement the same?
 
 My guess is that all common Olds SBs use the 166 tooth design 
 (307, 350, 403).
 
 Thanks,
 
 Ian >>

	You are correct..at least up until 87 the 307 flexplate was the same, 
and the 350's and 403's were the smae too.  Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 10:12:01 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Happy99 Virus

Searching AltaVista with the string "Happy99 virus" will pull up a raft of 
pages with instructions on how to delete it; here's one:

http://www.icon.co.zw/happy99.htm

Regards,
Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 13:21:53 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: ~We~Need~an~Oldsmobile~Big~Body~Club~

In a message dated 99-05-24 18:31:33 EDT, you write:

<< I'm in full agreement with you. After reading some of the other posts on 
this all I can say is that I hope the Antique Olds list starts accepting 
later models. Although I only missed it by 2 years.
 					R. Kevin Noon
 					66 Dynamic 88 Convertible
 					(Dynamic-saurus Rex) >>

Sorry, good footer.

Actually, there is at least the foundations of a full-size club out there. Or 
at least Dave Brown has mentioned same to Karl. Think something of this 
nature appeared in JWO some time ago. Also there is a B? (Karl bad with 
names) body Email list at vampire.org or summat. Was a subscriber (along with 
Clayton Pierce) until an AOL mishap put me into a different Email address. 
(nevermind)

Details should be out there, this is all Karl recalls.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 13:25:37 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: ~We~Need~an~Oldsmobile~Big~Body~Club~

In a message dated 99-05-24 20:10:28 EDT, you write:

<<  The reason they stopped at '64 was because of the body style change in 
'65. >>

Funny, Karl noticed little difference between the 1964 and 1965 Dynamic 88 
bodies.
Will grant significant frame difference though....

SOM

&KA  <---not even slightly harshing on P.H.!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 13:33:59 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: OCA Nats Meeting ?

In a message dated 99-05-24 19:19:48 EDT, you write:

<<   [I'm flying] in so won't have a car, I will be renting one, I will be 
set up in the swap area as I am  shipping down a few boxes of NOS to sell. So 
if you want to meet a my swap spaces as we did last year in Springfield we 
can. I will have my 
"E & G  Automotive" sign hanging from my tables. >>

Good for us, Karl will prolly spend more time getting toungue sunburnt at the 
swap meet.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 13:13:36 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: garage floor(non-olds)

Never saw that particular item, We always used a good oil based concrete
paint. I tried latex concrete paint once but it scratched very easily. OK
to walk on but if you move something it peels real bad, not good for a
shop.
Lou
- ----------
> From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: garage floor(non-olds)
> Date: Tuesday, May 25, 1999 10:56 AM
> 
> I think that I saw that the makers of POR-15 also make
> a floor covering? Or at least a concrete covering?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 14:15:34 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Sorry to interrupt here.... was: New Website, need all your help 
with this one!

KarlAunan@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Sorry to interrupt here but..:
> 
> << New list member (relatively speaking) shamelessly sucking up to Joe
>  "anything less than 400 cubes is a lawnmower engine" P.   :)
>  Good luck on your site.  And sorry Joe, but I couldn't resist it....
>  _________
> 
>  Sorry?  Heck, I couldn't have said it better myself!  ;-) >>
> 
> Not our place here, but clarification is needed.
> Mr. Sowers was not in any way referencing ~riding~ lawnmowers.

Well, actually I bet Joe sticks a big block in his "lawn tractor".  He's
buying a new place with a lot of room for his children (most of you
probably remember the list of FINE vehicles Mr. P has) and it will have
a good bit of grass on it, like acres.  SO, this presents Joe with an
excellent opportunity to find out if you really can stick a 455 on a
tractor and speed up your grass cuttings.  Might look a little strange
sitting sideways on a Craftsman mower chassis or the like.  Then we can
start classifing the riding mowers by power to weight or E.T.s or
bracket racing.  Which brings up another question to ponder.  When one
is trying to ascertain the fastest grass cutter in town, do you race
them on grass or take them to the strip?  And is the Olds powered 350
mower faster than the Chebby 350 equivalent and are these considered a
different class than the 455/454 family?  What width tires are legal and
do custom width wheels constitute an altered class or is that still pure
stock?  Ahhhhhhh, the decisions necessary to begin a new series for ESPN
to fill the months of empty programming between college basketball
seasons......

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 11:21:15 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: ~We~Don't~Need~an~Oldsmobile~Big~Body~Club~

Splitters. (catch the python ref?)

Frankly I wish the Toro guys were still here. I like reading up on the A
body stuff since a lot of it
applies to us. 

I have 2 66 big cars and am discovering new things in common with the A
bodies everyday.

Like the fact, now verified on my 2 66 big Olds's that the Hotchkiss 64-67
Cutlass rear trailing arms fit.

Lets keep it together here. I like it.

cf

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 11:27:51 PDT
From: "Ioannis Kouramanis" <kourama@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: POR-15

>
>I painted it on some clean bare metal (no rust) and it stuck well.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>
><snip>
>
> >2) it stands for Paint Over Rust. It won't stick to anything but
> >rusty metal. the rustier the better.

Yeah, I meant to correct that. It WILL stick, and will stick WELL,
but the company won't guarantee anything except rusty metal. The
guy who sold the stuff at a car show said it'll stick to anything,
which is pretty true (rusty metal, clean metal, skin...), but when
we talked to the company on the phone, they said "Paint Over Rust".


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 11:30:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Sorry to interrupt here.... was: New Website, need all your help  
with this one!

- --- Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net> wrote:
<snip>Which brings up another question to
> ponder.  When one
> is trying to ascertain the fastest grass cutter in
> town, do you race
> them on grass or take them to the strip?<snip> 



You take em out to the strip, but instead of going
down the pavement, you race on the grass outside of
the strip! You are judged not only on your ET, but
also on how nice your mower mows and how straight you
went down the track! They will have 3 different
classes. A)Regular side output mower B)Mulcher mower
C)Bagger mower. 
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 14:44:24 -0400
From: Doug Ahern <doug@mail.RATH.PeachNet.EDU>
Subject: Re: PCV vs. breather

On Tue, May 25, 1999 at 10:24:58AM -0400, Ed Binnix wrote:
> To add to the confusion . . .
> Why do you need PCV at all (aside from emissions laws)? The older cars
> didn't have them. I know of people who have eliminated them with no
> *immediate or apparent* problems. I was just going to use breathers, but

prior to PCV systems, car employed road draft tubes that plumbed a vent
from above the crankcase down below the road.  US streets and highways
had black streaks from all the oil burbed out of rough draft tubes.
really nasty.  then they just started running a pipe up in the air off
the top of the engine that vented the crankcase. I dunno when they started
employing PCV systems.  My 1964 Cutlass had a PCV system. so I'd say
early 60's....

They is no good reason not to run a PCV system on a street car.  eliminating
them doesn't improve performance signficantly enough to justify not running
them.  properly designed, it will help keep oil pan sloshing to a minimum
which is better for your oiling system (pickup tubes can pickup oil if its
airborn within the crankcase).  The best design is a vent on one valve
cover and a PCV valve on the other valve cover.  The PCV valve should 
be plumbed into a vacuum  (usually on the bottom of the carb behind the
butterflies..)  an additional venter on the same valve cover as the
PCV valve hurts rather than hinders, but in the case of a straight-6,
its the other option.

My original 64 Olds PCV was a POS.  They were POS new!   I replaced
mine with a home grown PCV system:   Mr Gasket push-in breater 
(with a 3/8" tube vent, and not vented on the bottom!)  plumbed to 
an inline PCV valve plumbed to the PCV tap on my AFB.  An original
style push-on breater is used on the oil fill/vent tube.  

Either replace your oil fill tube (the kind with a twist on cap)
with an earlier push-on breather tube,  or punch out the hole in 
the other valve cover.... either way you need to punch out a
hole in one valve cover for the PCV valve.

you can kind of see my PCV system on my Olds page:

http://www.appioneer.com/extra/auto/64olds.html

Doug Ahern
Athens, GA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 14:49:20 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: ~We~Need~an~Oldsmobile~Big~Body~Club~

KarlAunan@aol.com wrote:
 
> Funny, Karl noticed little difference between the 1964 and 1965 Dynamic 88
> bodies.
> Will grant significant frame difference though....

Karl had better clean his glasses, as there are significant differences
between '64s and '65s.  '64s were designed by the same folks who
designed the cardboard box, '65s had the curvy, Coke-bottle styling.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 13:56:18 -0700
From: Andy Lawrence <lawrencj@coral.indstate.edu>
Subject: 79 Cutlass Supreme

I have a 79 Cutlass with a bad engine, but i have an old 455 that i am
thinking of building up!

Here would be the set up

79 Cutlass 2 door
455 at approx 500 H.P.
TH400
POSI readend with 3.43 Gears
295 50R15 Tires

I currently have everything but the built engine, My question is what 1/4 time
could i expect with this setup?

BigBlock

79 Olds

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 16:01:19 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: 1971 Olds 442 (fwd)

This came to me personally. I can't do much for him but I'm sure someone
here can. You can reach Eric at eb081369@pacbell.net if you want to
assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Eric <eb081369@pacbell.net>
Subject: 1971 Olds 442

Greg,   We are a small paint and body shop in Southern California that
specializes in cars for the movie and tv industry.  We are preparing 2
1971 Olds 442 Convertibles which are all black in color.  We need to
paint them White with stripes across the hood and deck lid.
Unfortunately we have no pictures of the scheme as was used by GM and
would like to make them as authentic as we can.  Neither car has hood
scoops.

Your assistance would be greatly appreciated.   Thanks,  Eric Bayliss
(EB081369@PacBell.net)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 14:06:22 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: The best Rotors

will have togive a blatant plug to standard ignitions blue streak line as
well as MSD and of course accel napa's echlin line is the same as accel
(little known fact) and these are the best that I remember oh yeah there is
mallory they are  good too...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <KarlAunan@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 1999 12:11 PM
Subject: Re: The best Rotors


> In a message dated 99-05-25 08:11:11 EDT, you write:
>
> << Who makes the best rotors for you car.  And what would be the
difference in
>  the best rotor and an average rotor? >>
>
> Well, Karl's recent experience is that Accel was good, save for
unexplained
> failure in one rotor. A brand called KEM (still more ???s) has a rotor
that
> looks identical (and more ???? there), and will be touted by sales blokes
as
> being just as good. Karl would not even think of it. An Accel lookalike??
>
> Karl is very willing to try other brands given the above.
>
> Anyone?
>
> SOM
>
> &KA
>
> &KA
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 16:17:35 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: The best Rotors

I have had good luck also with most Standard Blue Streak ignition
products, but also find most AC-Delco products pretty good too though I'm
not crazy about their points with that little spring clip attachment for
the power lead as opposed to a screw fitting. I don't like to buy visible
items like distributor caps and coils that are odd colors from those used
originally.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 14:24:42 -0500
From: Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com
Subject: RE: POR-15

Does this stuff come in spray cans?

> -----Original Message-----
> From:	Ioannis Kouramanis [SMTP:kourama@hotmail.com]
> Sent:	Tuesday, May 25, 1999 1:28 PM
> To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject:	Re: POR-15
> 
> >
> >I painted it on some clean bare metal (no rust) and it stuck well.
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >
> ><snip>
> >
> > >2) it stands for Paint Over Rust. It won't stick to anything but
> > >rusty metal. the rustier the better.
> 
> Yeah, I meant to correct that. It WILL stick, and will stick WELL,
> but the company won't guarantee anything except rusty metal. The
> guy who sold the stuff at a car show said it'll stick to anything,
> which is pretty true (rusty metal, clean metal, skin...), but when
> we talked to the company on the phone, they said "Paint Over Rust".
> 
> 
> ______________________________________________________
> Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 16:39:01 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Repair Ineptitude, Chapter 984

I figure I'm close to the 1000 mark on stories of inept shops doing work
on my car. I understand now why most folks here like to do things
themselves. Here's the latest chapter:

Last summmer the Delta took a stone in the windshield. It left a crack
about the size of a quarter and I took it to a windshield place for
repair. They said they could do it, but I was never happy with the result
since you could still see it and feel it from the outside. It held until a
couple of weeks ago when it suddenly grew to about 8" and was followed a
day or so later by another crack on the other side, so I made an
appointment to get it replaced. 

Aside from the exhaust manifold woes I've described, the other main
problem with the Delta is the dreaded pinchweld rust around the
windshield. It leaked there, and last year I took the stainless trim off
and found some problems. After 20 years some of the trim clips were shot,
so after I dealt with the bad spots I went and got some replacement trim
clips that screw in and installed them. Worked great and I was satisfied.
A couple of days before I took it in to get the windshield replaced, I
decided to take the trim off to see how the repaired areas were doing. I
used my tool to get the stainless off, saw things were still fine, and
then I made my mistake -- I put the stainless back on.

So the end of last week I took it to the glass shop. I didn't look at it
real close when I picked it up because it had started to rain. But after I
get home and park it for a while, I get back in and there's this huge
puddle on the floor -- far worse than ever before. I look at the job from
the outside and they had used copious amounts of black silicone to *glue*
the stainless on! This is consistent with 3 or 4 broken trim clips I found
on the floor, on the cowl, and in the door jambs (along with slivers of
broken glass). So now I have no way to get the trim off easily, the thing
leaks like a sieve, probably in the areas where they had broken the clips
off, it looks lousy if you look closely at it, and I am royally p-o'ed.

I figure short of suing them the only way I can stop the leaks is from the
inside, by taking off the interior trim and dropping the headliner at the
top of the windshield. Not a fun job, but I gotta stop these leaks or I
won't have a car. Today it's raining quite hard and the headliner is
actually wet on the inside, something that never happened before. That is
unacceptable. I cannot believe my luck at shops around here.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 14:39:35 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: The best Rotors

would agree with greg on the color thing as well as a few folks might like
the madsen crossfire caps and rotors they are good heavy alkyd and allow
four wires to the right and four wires to left
for neatness and are available in many colors black being one and yellow red
and blue transdapt used to make a cool clear cap which didnt stay real clear
for long.....KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 25, 1999 2:17 PM
Subject: Re: The best Rotors


>
> I have had good luck also with most Standard Blue Streak ignition
> products, but also find most AC-Delco products pretty good too though I'm
> not crazy about their points with that little spring clip attachment for
> the power lead as opposed to a screw fitting. I don't like to buy visible
> items like distributor caps and coils that are odd colors from those used
> originally.
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>    --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
>              &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 25 May 1999 12:45:07 -0700
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re: POR-15 / Chassis Coat black

>Date: Mon, 24 May 1999 22:13:41 -0500
>From: Dan Williams <442much@home.com>
>Subject: Re: POR-15 / Chassis Coat black

>I have used all of the POR-15 paints and found them to work very well,
>except for the chassis coat black.  Has anybody else used this?  When I
>painted my frame with it, it went on very thick and did not smooth out,
>thus leaving brush strokes.  The POR-15 did not do that when applied. 
>It look great with the POR-15 coat, and the chassis coat top coat ruined
>it.  I'm going to call the folkes at POR-15 and see what they say. 
>Also, I noticed that the POR-15 did not stand up to chipping as
>advertised, I was able to easily chip it.  

>- -Dan

Dan,
	I've used both the regular POR-15 and the Chassis coat black paints.
When I applied each I used a 3M foam rubber brush on all of my parts.  I had
my entire undercarriage & frame sandblasted and both came out looking great.
I applied the POR-15 black first (2 coats) and then another 2 coats of the
chassis coat black.  Both came out looking great.  I used the foam brushes
so I wouldn't have the problem you did with application since the POR-15
seemed pretty thick.
	I haven't tried whacking any of my sheetmetal with a hammer but I
did it to a sway bar I glass beaded & painted.  I hit the thing HARD with a
ball peen hammer, and there was no chipping.  Who knows why it chipped
easily for you.   I'm a very happy user of POR-15.

Steve Reed
Austin, TX

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1977
*********************************

