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cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1950


oldsmobile-digest        Monday, May 10 1999        Volume 01 : Number 1950



Re: please post message
Re: please post message
Body Parts
Re: 68 & 72 Interchangability
Olds Newbie
Re: Newbie help with rearend
Re: Mallory Unilite Distributor
Re: Offlist: 1968 Canada 442
Re: Broke my Windshield
Re: 66 Starfire Interior Lights
UNBOUNCE: Need '78 Cutlass Rear Bumper/Body Parts
Re: Broke My Windshield
Re: Olds Newbie
Re: I've got the '69 now...
Re: fuel gauge problem, need help
Re: Broke my Windshield
Re: fuel gauge problem, need help
Re: Broke my Windshield
Carb thoughts: Question about the 81-85 A4 aluminum intake 
Steele Rubber Products.  Good choice?
Re: 69 H/O in July'99 MCR...it's SLOW!
Re: 442 Super Stock II Wheels
Re: Carb thoughts: Question about the 81-85 A4 aluminum intake
Color Change
Re: Mallory Unilite Distributor
Re: 69 H/O in July'99 MCR...it's SLOW!
RE: Color Change
Re: Flowmaster Invitational
Re: 69 H/O in July'99 MCR...it's SLOW!
Re: Broke my Windshield
fuel gauge problem fixed!
Re:66 Starfire option hunt
Re: BB Olds windage tray/big car spindles
UNBOUNCE: Flowmaster Invitational
Re: Carb thoughts: Question about the 81-85 A4 aluminum intake 
Re: Carb thoughts: Question about the 81-85 A4 aluminum intake 
Re: Steele Rubber Products.  Good choice?
Re: Steele Rubber Products.  Good choice?
Re: Broke my Windshield
Re: 68 2 piece Rotors
Re: TBI question
Re: MSD6AL box
SB OLDS in 80's F body
Re: SB OLDS in 80's F body
RE: Seat covers
Re: !!!NEEDED!!! : used SB headers
Re: TBI question
HEI coil - Bad?
Mime-Version: 1.0
Re: !!!NEEDED!!! : used SB headers
Still Looking for a 455 and/or TH400
Re: !!!NEEDED!!! : used SB headers
Re: Still Looking for a 455 and/or TH400

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 07:00:54 -0700
From: "Peter Berusch" <berusch@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: please post message

OK, Adam.  I'll snail mail it to you today.  I'm pretty sure I won't have to
lay out any more than $1.00, and I'm ok with that.  Peter.



>I would greatly appreciate a copy of the '67 Olds Cutalss 442 Wiring
Diagram:
>My address is:
>Adam Peterson
>2711 Anchor Ave.
>Los Angeles, CA  90064
>I would be willing to reimburse you in any way possible
>Regards

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 07:22:27 -0700
From: "Peter Berusch" <berusch@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: please post message

  Sorry.  Obviously that was to go privately.  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 07:52:48 -0400
From: "SHAHID RAKI" <RAKIS@ODHS.STATE.OH.US>
Subject: Body Parts

Hi,
I'm trying to locate a rear bumper for a 1978 Olds Cutlass.  Also, are there 
any parts, upholstery, and other sources for the 1978-1988 Cutlass?  I already 
know about many for the 1968-1977, but not the others.  Can you give us some 
help?  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 08:33:12 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 68 & 72 Interchangability

>Mike Bloomer wrote:
>> 
>> Anybody know if I can pull the rockers off of a 70-72 to go
>> on my 68?  
>
>My parts catalogs list rockers from '68 to '72 as being the same part.
>
>> What about floor pan sections like the toe board?  
>
>Ditto.
>
>paul


Thanks for the info Paul.  Trying to find 68's or 69's is next to 
impossible around here.  Now, the 70 to 72's are a different
matter.  Happy Day!  Looks like if I can find a good door I 
know where I can get the rocker section I need.  :-)

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 08:57:57 +0000
From: Scott Stamper <stamper@execpc.com>
Subject: Olds Newbie

I would like to appeal to the list's collective expertise and ask for
recommendations on literature and parts resources. In a few days I'll be
picking up my (new) '70 Delta 88 ragtop and bringing it home. Tho my
daily driver is a low miles '69 Corvair 500 Coupe, there's obviously
only similiarities between the 2 cars at a basic level.
What shop manual(s) would be a good place for me to start? A car buddy
has suggested that a Chilton's for that period car would meet most of my
needs, but I'd like to hear other suggestions. Also, suggestions on
where to buy the manual(s) would be appreciated. My Vair has been kept
happy with a chassis manual, manufacturer  assembly manual & a tech
manual from the national Corvair association. Is it necessary to go to
that extent with my Olds?
Also, I'd appreciate suggestions for parts sourcing.
If its impolitic to post answers to the whole list (especially about
parts sourcing:  haven't been reading the list long enough to know whats
cool or uncool), info off list is fine too.
Had a fondly remembered '69 Cutlass S  as my first car, and, it feels
like I've come full circle.
Thanks in advance.
Scott

- --
"Purdue University, *the* Indiana University"
Scott Stamper  Pharmacist/Dentist  Brooklyn, WI

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 09:04:21 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Newbie help with rearend

>1. Can I expect to do this job myself? I am quite proffiecient in car
>repair, but do I need any special tools?  How long will it take me?


Yes you will need special tools, sort of.  The best way to set up a
gear is with a pinion depth gauge.  This affects the contact pattern
between the ring and pinion.  You will also need a dial indicator to
set your backlash.  Another thing you will need is a way to hold the
pinion yoke while you torque the pinion nut.  Now, it doesn't take
the pattern being off by much to make the gears whine, so unless
you have a friend that can do it with you, I would suggest farming
it out.  Someone who knows what they are doing can have one
set up in about 2 hours but then they have all the tools (you will also
need a press for the bearings) and all the little parts.  These little
parts are stuff like shims (my shop always had a couple boxes of
various thicknesses) that you have to play with to get everything
sitting right.

>2. How much will this cost?


Depends, if your going from 2.11 to 3.73 you'll need a new carrier.
Might as well get a new 3 series posi and then the price of the gear
and the rebuild kit with all the bearings and seals.  The labor really
depends on what part of the country (or what country) your in since
the labor rates seem to vary wildly.  I would estimate $700 to do
it right and replace everything though it will probably be less
.
>3. Anybody know anythintg about the BU rearend? I have heard that 3.3 is
the
>highest ratio the stock rearend will take, is this true?


It's not the rearend itself but the carrier.  You can install a spacer
between
the ring gear and the carrier, or Richmond sells extra thick gears designed
for this.  I would install a posi if it doesn't already have it but this is
one way
to cut the cost.  I'm assuming that you have the corporate 7.5" ring gear
10 bolt which is a very common rearend in late model RWD cars.

>4. (I know this is a stupid question) How in gods name do I recalibrate a
>speedo?


Your speedo cable plugs into the rear of your trans.  Inside of there you
have a gear on the tailshaft of the trans (the "drive gear") and the gear
attached to the cable (the "driven gear").  By swapping out the driven
gear and it's sleeve (a particular sleeve will cover several different size
gears) for one of a different tooth count will change your speedo.
Somewhere around here I have the formula's for figuring out which tooth
count you need for a given trans/tire/gear combo.  Of course, if your
running
the same size tires as the HO's and 442's you could just find out what they
have in them (GM part guy should have that info) and use that gear.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 10:07:04 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Mallory Unilite Distributor

gjcouse wrote:

> Anyone running a Mallory Unilite Distributor on a 455?

Although I'm not using one on a 455, I am using the Mallory Unilite Conversion
(which uses the same module as the actual Unilite distributor) in my, 
otherwise,
stock Delco distributor on my 350.  I like it. I also have a friend who uses 
the
Mallory Unilite Distributor in his dual quad nitrous 396 Corvette.  He, too, 
was
short on clearance, and likes his, too.

> What are your
> likes/dislikes about it?

Though not really a dislike, you HAVE to be sure to use a ballast resistor.  It
does not take a full 12 volts like the HEI.  Nearly all failures of the Unilite
are due to over voltage conditions.

> I have no prior knowledge of this
> distributor and setup.

All I did was install the conversion kit and retime the engine.  Talk to Greg
Rollin.  He uses the Mallory in the SuperCars race car.--
Thomas P. Smith
  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/dual exhaust/
        sometimes Q-Jet, sometimes Holley/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 10:15:26 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Offlist: 1968 Canada 442

As a footnote, something I noticed on a 69 442 that I worked on once was
that on the cowl plate it had "Made in Canada" or something to that effect
plain as day.  Pretty hard to miss.
__________

Yep.  Mine had that too.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 09:25:09 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Broke my Windshield

> I dont know,  but if anyone has an answere to this I would like to know the
> same thing.  except I need a windshield for a 71 olds 442
> 
> > 1968 olds cutlass 2 dr hard top. where my best buy?

Hi Guys:

Tamraz's lists windshields for both requested years:

1968 windshield w/o antenna 2dr hardtop clear   328.00
1968 windshield w/o antenna 2dr hardtop tinted  375.00

1970-72 windshield w/o antenna clear   328.00
1970-72 windshield w/o antenna tinted  412.00

Tamraz: 1 800 442 4601

I would also check local autoglass shops. They may be able to get you one 
installed for the same price range!

Good Luck, 
George



- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 07:44:46 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 66 Starfire Interior Lights

>Only problem now is that the headlight switch can't be used to fire
>up the interior lights, but the door switches work perfectly. Any ideas on 
>the headlight switch? I know it's just another ground switch like the 
>bass-ackwards stuff you described in your previous note. I'm satisfied, but 
>for this nit.

It is the same kind of thing; you just need to figure out which connector on 
the switch is the one you need to tap into. If the headlight switch can turn 
_any_ light on at the moment, perhaps you can selectively disconnect the 
wires at the switch until you find the right wire, then connect your 
courtesy light harness ground lead to it. (Aren't there any wires at the 
switch with the same color as your harness ground lead?)

>Was thinking it might be sound to put a fuse in the main positive wire into 
>this harness for safety. Do you happen to know if the orange positive lead 
>is already fused at the fuse box making this extra-safety feature 
>redundant?

Yes, the orange circuit is usually labeled as CLOCK, LIGHTER, CTSY LIGHTS, 
or some combination of those. You should find that pulling one of those will 
make the orange wire(s) go dead.

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 11:46:28 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Need '78 Cutlass Rear Bumper/Body Parts

Not on the list, respond to RAKIS@ODHS.STATE.OH.US if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"SHAHID RAKI" <RAKIS@ODHS.STATE.OH.US>
Subject: Body Parts

Hi, I'm trying to locate a rear bumper for a 1978 Olds Cutlass.  Also, are
there any parts, upholstery, and other sources for the 1978-1988 Cutlass? 
I already know about many for the 1968-1977, but not the others.  Can you
give us some help?  Thanks. 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 11:51:58 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Broke My Windshield

Must be catching... I went out to the Delta Saturday AM and found a large
crack in my windshield. It wasn't there Thursday when I last drove it. 
Last summer I took a stone from a truck there though, and the small crack
it caused was repaired by one of those places that says they can save you
the cost of a new windshield. Guess they were wrong.

I suppose now is the time to get those water leaks at the top of the
windshield (the dreaded rusties I fear) fixed, before the new one goes
in. I have comp insurance to pay for the glass but I'm wondering how I
would claim it if the body shop took it out first... 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 09:39:07 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Olds Newbie

> What shop manual(s) would be a good place for me to start? A car buddy
> has suggested that a Chilton's for that period car would meet most of my
> needs, but I'd like to hear other suggestions. Also, suggestions on
> where to buy the manual(s) would be appreciated. My Vair has been kept
> happy with a chassis manual, manufacturer  assembly manual & a tech
> manual from the national Corvair association. Is it necessary to go to
> that extent with my Olds?

Yes, exactly!


Scott, 

Congrats for your purchase and welcome to the list!!! Depending on what 
the car needs you will run into purchasing the so called chassis manual 
pretty soon. They sell it an many places and you may want to shop around 
for it. I will send you a list of vendors privately, a list I always send 
when people are looking for parts sources. You can also go to 442.com and 
look at the parts sources listed there. I always get as many catalogs as 
I can and it is fun to browse them and find the best deals and get info 
out of them too.

Have fun Oldsmobiling!!!

George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
- --------------------------------------------------------------

> I would like to appeal to the list's collective expertise and ask for
> recommendations on literature and parts resources. In a few days I'll be
> picking up my (new) '70 Delta 88 ragtop and bringing it home. Tho my
> daily driver is a low miles '69 Corvair 500 Coupe, there's obviously
> only similiarities between the 2 cars at a basic level.
> Also, I'd appreciate suggestions for parts sourcing.
> If its impolitic to post answers to the whole list (especially about
> parts sourcing:  haven't been reading the list long enough to know whats
> cool or uncool), info off list is fine too.
> Had a fondly remembered '69 Cutlass S  as my first car, and, it feels
> like I've come full circle.
> Thanks in advance.
> Scott
> 
> --
> "Purdue University, *the* Indiana University"
> Scott Stamper  Pharmacist/Dentist  Brooklyn, WI
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 08:54:14 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: I've got the '69 now...

Hi Gary,

gjcouse wrote:
> 
> <snip>
> I did find a bag full of 442 pot metal independent numbers. Each with 2
> posts. I didn't measure them but would say there apx. 2" in height. There
> were a couple smaller versions at apx. 1+ 3/4" in size. There was even 1 "4"
> that looked to have a curve to it. I might part with these. That's about it
> for now. We'll pull this engine this weekend and prep it to drop into Quincy
> in 10 days or so.  Gary....

Make sure you have all the numbers for your car before you get rid of any.  The
4 with a curve in it is the middle one of the 442 on the hood tongue.  You
should have sets of 442 numbers for the sides and the trunk and the tongue.

It sounds like a very nice car to restore.  BTW: the dash material on the '69's
was a nice soft material that rarely seems to be cracked, why didn't they use
it on more cars?
- -- 

Cliff "needing another set of 442 numbers so he can have 2 trunk lids set up, 1
winged, 1 stock" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 07:57:25 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: fuel gauge problem, need help

>This latest problem seems to have shown up since I replaced my rear
>bumper. Is there a wire that's connected wrong somewhere?

From your description, it sounds like the fuel gauge circuit is using the 
taillight circuit as a ground whenever the lights are on. Either that or you 
have managed to mix up the license-plate light wire with the fuel gauge 
sending unit wire, which sounds unlikely.

Are you sure all the other lights back there are working exactly the way 
they should?

Anyhow, I'd check all your ground connections back there.

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 07:59:00 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Broke my Windshield

Check around to local glass companies. Amazingly
enough, some stores still have glass for these cars! I
can't remember prices, but around Fargo here, I found
about 5 reputable auto glass shops that still had the
glass in stock. Or, you could attempt at trying to get
one from a salvage yard somewhere.

Del
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <VLHDancer@aol.com>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Sunday, May 09, 1999 4:38 PM
> Subject: Broke my Windshield
> 
> 
> > 1968 olds cutlass 2 dr hard top. where my best
> buy?
> >
> 
> 

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 10:48:33 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: fuel gauge problem, need help

have seen this problem before and it turned out to be the ground from the
instrument panel to the body small ground straps behind the dash...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
To: oldsmobile mailinglist <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, May 09, 1999 9:20 PM
Subject: fuel gauge problem, need help


>
>   I'm having a problem with my fuel gauge on my 1970 cutlass.  When my
> headlights are off, it shows empty, and when my headlights are on, it
> shows about 1 1/2 inches past full, or basically like I have 2 tank
> fulls!  I had a similar problem show up a while back, where the needle
> dropped past full, but when I filled it up, it corrected itself.  This
> latest problem seems to have shown up since I replaced my rear bumper.
> Is there a wire that's connected wrong somewhere?
>
> Thanks in Advance for any input,
>   Stefan
>   1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
>   70Cutlass@Beer.com
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 12:11:04 EDT
From: Mrmagic442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Broke my Windshield

  Okay.. Here's the scoop.  I have the ability to let you pick up your 
windshields in 103 locations around the country. the 68-69 windshields cost 
115.89 and the 70-72 windshields cost 122.94. This is OEM glass from LOF.  

     Windshield Magic
      1-800-560-8061
              Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 12:18:33 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Carb thoughts: Question about the 81-85 A4 aluminum intake 

In a message dated 99-05-09 22:36:06 EDT, you write:

<<  I've never done an intake swap, but I've heard it's not that difficult.  
I'd be either rebuilding the carb that's on that intake, or maybe buying an 
Edelbrock or Holly 650. >>

The toughest part can be removing it from the donor car.

Nothing quite so fun as an off-balance dead lift against a well-sealed 
intake, not fun with the cast iron BB jobs.

Have not heard much praise for the 305 quadrajets.
The only advantage possible is that it should have "71"or "72" jets and a "J" 
hanger which are fairly common for 350s, and the secondary rods could work on 
your application.
Your rebuild would necessitate removing any CCC related materials, which 
prolly involves lotsa solenoids, and such, possibly a throttle position 
sensor, not to mention sealing the vacc line for the EGR pump.
Then it might work.
Maybe.
OTOH, for $10 over the cost of the intake, you get the hanger you will need 
and the jets that you might want later. Mebbe.

The FAQ shows 69 and 70 jets for 1970 applications.
Bigger jets will be needed if you cam up though....

Best bet, look for a pre-1975 Qjet.
On the 1973-1974 you need only seal off EGR and re-rod.
1975 introduced some other complicated internals that best not discussed.
(due to ignorance)

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 12:40:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: dsenko@UU.NET (Drew Senko)
Subject: Steele Rubber Products.  Good choice?

I'm looking into buying new rubber moldings to replace the various
worn parts on my 71 Cutlass convertible.  I've looked at Steele Rubber
Products and they have a kit for about $110 for my car.  I'm not sure
what all is included in the kit at this time.  Steele's website is at:
http://www.steelerubber.com

Does anyone else have Steele rubber products on their car?

Do you recommend any other company for better quality or prices?

 --                    ______________                     _
Drew Senko            / Convertibles \                    |\
dsenko@uu.net         \_____Rule!____/     .__====-_._____|_\______
Vienna, VA, USA                     O      [   ___  |-     |  ___  \
http://members.aol.com/drewinva       o o  =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)
_______________________________________________\_/____________\_/_____

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 09:41:51 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 69 H/O in July'99 MCR...it's SLOW!

Hey all,

I know that this thread is sort of dead at this point, but I came across 
something interesting this weekend that was exactly on this subject.

Ray Moriarty and I went on a parts run this weekend to South Carolina, and 
Ray acquired an Oldsmobile performance book as part of the deal. In the book 
was a partial reprint of CARS magazine's test of a '69 H/O. The car was a 
non/air 3.91 rear car. They were able to get it through the quarter in 13.90 
on stock tires. I personally find this to be a respectable time for a car of 
this time period.

The car in the MCR I assume is an a/c car, which was NEVER a quarter mile 
performer. It, like the '68 H/O a/c and the '70-'71 W-30 a/c cars are just 
for looks in that department. The only H/O's that could produce impressive 
times in the quarter were the '68 non/air cars, and just like the non-air 
W-30s, are 'not intended for highway use'.


Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass Poo)


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 12:58:05 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: 442 Super Stock II Wheels

In a message dated 05/09/1999 9:02:47 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
f_myrick@hotmail.com writes:

<< When a 1969 442 was ordered with Super Stock II wheels, was the spare tire 
 on a Super Stock II wheel or a plane wheel?
  >>

My 69 442 has Super Stock II  wheels but when I got the car the guy did not 
have a spare.  So he gave me an old rim and tire.  However, I believe that 
the original spare was on a Super Stock II wheel. There are a couple of 
reasons.

1.  On my 442 it has the original tire storage decal and it says F-85 
Specialty Wheel but the drawing appears to be a Super Stock I wheel.  Maybe 
because the decal covers several years prior to 69.

2.  If you look in the Year One catalog they call for a special nut that goes 
on the spare tire hold down rod instead of one of those big wing nuts and 
that is shown on my decal.

3. Also in Year One there are special clips that hold the jack handle if you 
have Super Stock wheels.

I was looking for an extra Super Stock II wheel for my car but decided 
against spending the money because I don't plan on going to any Concours 
shows.  

Hope this helps.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 13:05:54 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Carb thoughts: Question about the 81-85 A4 aluminum intake

KarlAunan@aol.com wrote:

> Best bet, look for a pre-1975 Qjet.
> On the 1973-1974 you need only seal off EGR and re-rod.

Having inspected the throttle bodies on my '71 Q-Jet and my '73 Q-Jet (both for
350 Cutlass applications), I'd say, use one '73 or later.  The PCV inlet is
better on the later models.  '71's offer more hurdles for the PCV gases,
encouraging blockage formation, and the gases end up going to one primary bore
more than the other.  I don't know if '72's have throttle bodies more like 
'71's
or '73's, but if a Q-Jet is in your plans, I'd prefer an EGR Q-Jet
(non-computerized, say a 1973-74, as Karl recommends) and just cap off the EGR
port.  Just my opinion.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/dual exhaust/
        sometimes Q-Jet, sometimes Holley/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 13:17:00 EDT
From: SrDietW30@aol.com
Subject: Color Change

Larry,

	I also pondered changing colors at the start of my restoration of a 
71 442 W30 Conv..
I liked the Viking blue with white until I saw in person on a 442 in Carlisle 
and than I didn't like it.  I also liked a couple of other colors but they 
were only available on the Olds big cars or Toronado.
	I finally chose to stay with the original color, Sienna, and I'm glad 
I did.  It looks great finished.  It's not a color that you see a lot of,  
just like the silver.  I don't know if I got the exact shade correct as 
Sikkens did not have the paint mix that far back so I had to match a newer 
color as close as I could.
	Also,  if you downloaded the 442 screen saver there is a silver 442 
W30 that looks great in that color.
	I'm sure any color chosen will look fabulous.  

Steve Dietrich
	71 442 W30 Conv.
		S/E PA.	


	

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 13:21:26 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Mallory Unilite Distributor

gjcouse wrote:

>  I'll be running
> an Offy intake and there is no clearance to run an HEI unit.

There is something I forgot to mention in my previous reply.  That is,
personally, I'd feel more comfortable with the Mallory Unilite conversion 
rather
than the actual Mallory Unilite distributor.  Here's why.  A Delco cap is 
larger
than the rather small Mallory cap--the posts are spaced just a little bit
further apart.  This should offer better resistance to undercap crossfiring and
carbon tracking.   Plus, you can use readily available aftermarket recurving
kits designed for a Delco V8 points distributor.  Just my thoughts.  Good luck.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/dual exhaust/
        sometimes Q-Jet, sometimes Holley/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 13:25:56 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 69 H/O in July'99 MCR...it's SLOW!

Yes, I also have to chime in on this one, both as a 69 H/O owner and as someone
who appreciates the fact that this car was _never_ available in the Sport Coupe
body  ;-)

  I'd first like to echo Brent's comments.  Period road tests on the 69 H/O by
both Hot Rod and Car Craft were in the high 13.9s at just over 100 mph.  These
were non-A/C cars (actually, likely the same press car), with drivers who a)
were not the owner who had a ton of money in the resto and b) were probably 
more
experienced at drag strip launches.  Yes, it's likely that a 1969 press car was
probably prepped prior to releasing it, but at the same time, that likely means
that it was properly tuned at the time.  Also, unlike the infamous GTO test
(where the OEM 389 was replaced with a 421), Olds didn't have an engine larger
than the 455 anyway.

The fact remains that most current magazine tests of vintage musclecars have 
the
owner either driving or standing by while some editor drives.  Neither 
situation
is usually conducive to wringing the last bit of performance from the car.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 13:29:29 -0400
From: "Jolly, Peter (CC/ISD)" <PJolly@nih.gov>
Subject: RE: Color Change

I noticed that you mentioned a 442 screen saver.  Where can that screen
saver be obtained?

Peter Jolly

> ----------
> From: 	SrDietW30@aol.com
> Reply To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Sent: 	Monday, May 10, 1999 1:17 PM
> To: 	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 	Color Change
> 
> Larry,
> 
> 	I also pondered changing colors at the start of my restoration of a 
> 71 442 W30 Conv..
> I liked the Viking blue with white until I saw in person on a 442 in
> Carlisle 
> and than I didn't like it.  I also liked a couple of other colors but they
> 
> were only available on the Olds big cars or Toronado.
> 	I finally chose to stay with the original color, Sienna, and I'm
> glad 
> I did.  It looks great finished.  It's not a color that you see a lot of,
> 
> just like the silver.  I don't know if I got the exact shade correct as 
> Sikkens did not have the paint mix that far back so I had to match a newer
> 
> color as close as I could.
> 	Also,  if you downloaded the 442 screen saver there is a silver 442 
> W30 that looks great in that color.
> 	I'm sure any color chosen will look fabulous.  
> 
> Steve Dietrich
> 	71 442 W30 Conv.
> 		S/E PA.	
> 
> 
> 	
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 13:31:51 EDT
From: RPTW32@aol.com
Subject: Re: Flowmaster Invitational

To any of those around the N.E. / Central Ohio area there is gonna be an 
event this 
weekend at Norwalk Raceway (Norwalk Oh.) which will be identical to the 
NMCA/NSCA programs which include everything from Bracket classes to the top 
dog PRO Street /Outlaw Street classes.

If you make it look for the Orange/Black 69 442 and the White/Black 71 442 
which
will be me and friend. Two day event SAT/SUN at one of the best tracks in the 
country and for $50 entry for two day event paying $1000 to win each day is 
too good to pass up. Maybe see ya there (I'll be there  - if I don't see you 
it's cause you're not there)

Rgds,
Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 13:36:43 EDT
From: RPTW32@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69 H/O in July'99 MCR...it's SLOW!

In a message dated 5/10/99 1:28:31 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM writes:

<< The fact remains that most current magazine tests of vintage musclecars 
have the
 owner either driving or standing by while some editor drives.  Neither 
situation
 is usually conducive to wringing the last bit of performance from the car.
  >>

I also got to ring in on this one. The BB Olds puts out so much torque at low 
rpm that you usually don't see impressive 60' times due to the "stock tires" 
that these tests are usually run with.  Put on a set of slicks and watch that 
time drop to low 13's easily at 104+ mph.  In drag racing if you don't launch 
and get it going you run out of track before the car regains what you lose in 
tire spin off the line.
A/C or no A/C a properly tuned 455 (pre 71) should be able to run low 13's 
all day and then cruise home with the a/c on.

Rgds,
Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 14:00:28 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Broke my Windshield

George wrote:
> 
> > I dont know,  but if anyone has an answere to this I would like to know the
> > same thing.  except I need a windshield for a 71 olds 442
> >
> > > 1968 olds cutlass 2 dr hard top. where my best buy?
> 
> Hi Guys:
> 
> Tamraz's lists windshields for both requested years:
> 
> 1968 windshield w/o antenna 2dr hardtop clear   328.00
> 1968 windshield w/o antenna 2dr hardtop tinted  375.00
> 
> 1970-72 windshield w/o antenna clear   328.00
> 1970-72 windshield w/o antenna tinted  412.00
> 
> Tamraz: 1 800 442 4601
> 
> I would also check local autoglass shops. They may be able to get you one
> installed for the same price range!

The last time I checked those prices would be considered a bit much in
this area (central KY).  Maybe I need to update my local quotes....

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 11:07:09 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: fuel gauge problem fixed!

  My fuel gauge problem has been corrected.  I had the wires for the
liscence plate light and the fuel gauge reversed.  They are both brown
wires, just different shades, so I accidentally hooked them up wrong. 
I guess 30 years of dirt makes them look kind of similar.  Anyway,
thanks to all for the input.

Stefan
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
70Cutlass@Beer.com
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 13:41:36 -0500
From: "Walker" <pwalker@megavision.com>
Subject: Re:66 Starfire option hunt

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BE9AEA.D33456C0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have complete cruise control system on 66 98
parts car. Need to make sure it works good.
E-mail privately at
pwalker@megavision.com
address to john

- ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BE9AEA.D33456C0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have complete cruise control =
system on 66=20
98</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>parts car. Need to make sure it =
works=20
good.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>E-mail privately at</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:pwalker@megavision.com">pwalker@megavision.com</A></FONT><=
/DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>address to =
john</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BE9AEA.D33456C0--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 14:50:48 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: BB Olds windage tray/big car spindles

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01BE9AF4.7E1D4DE0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Windage tray can be found at the Joe Mondello super =
store!meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Walker=20
  To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca=20
  Sent: Sunday, May 09, 1999 7:46 PM
  Subject: BB Olds windage tray/big car spindles


  Does anybody know where i can get a bb olds windage tray?              =
                                                                         =
     =20
  Will big=20
  car (66 olds 98) spindles actually lower my 67 CS
   1 inch.   =20
  =20
  =20
  67 CS driver
  66  98 parts car

- ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01BE9AF4.7E1D4DE0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2314.1000" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Windage tray can be found at the Joe Mondello super =
store!<A=20
href=3D"mailto:meso@pamlico.net">meso@pamlico.net</A><BR>Steve<BR>North=20
Carolina<BR>ICQ#26466860<BR><A=20
href=3D"http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html">http://members.xoo=
m.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html</A></FONT></DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: #000000 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: =
0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; PADDING-RIGHT: 0px">
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial">----- Original Message ----- </DIV>
  <DIV=20
  style=3D"BACKGROUND: #e4e4e4; FONT: 10pt arial; font-color: =
black"><B>From:</B>=20
  <A href=3D"mailto:pwalker@megavision.com"=20
  title=3Dpwalker@megavision.com>Walker</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>To:</B> <A=20
  href=3D"mailto:oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca"=20
  title=3Doldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca</A> </DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Sent:</B> Sunday, May 09, 1999 7:46 =
PM</DIV>
  <DIV style=3D"FONT: 10pt arial"><B>Subject:</B> BB Olds windage =
tray/big car=20
  spindles</DIV>
  <DIV><BR></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Does anybody know where i can get =
a bb olds=20
  windage=20
  =
tray?&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
sp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbs=
p;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp=
;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;=
&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&=
nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Will big </FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>car (66 olds 98) spindles actually =
lower my 67=20
  CS</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;1 inch.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>67 CS driver</FONT></DIV>
  <DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>66&nbsp; 98 parts=20
car</FONT></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0022_01BE9AF4.7E1D4DE0--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 15:45:32 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Flowmaster Invitational

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	RPTW32@aol.com
Subject: Re: Flowmaster Invitational

To any of those around the N.E. / Central Ohio area there is gonna be an
event this weekend at Norwalk Raceway (Norwalk Oh.) which will be
identical to the NMCA/NSCA programs which include everything from Bracket
classes to the top dog PRO Street /Outlaw Street classes. 

If you make it look for the Orange/Black 69 442 and the White/Black 
71 442 which will be me and friend. Two day event SAT/SUN at one of the
best tracks in the country and for $50 entry for two day event paying
$1000 to win each day is too good to pass up. Maybe see ya there (I'll be
there - if I don't see you it's cause you're not there) 

Rgds,
Rob Thomas
69 442

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 12:03:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Carb thoughts: Question about the 81-85 A4 aluminum intake 

I'm going to head back over to the yard in about a week or so.  Do 1971
Buicks and/or Pontiacs have Quadrajet carbs?  There's a 71 Skylark, and
a couple of 71-2 Lemanses, so If they have quadrajets too, I can prolly
get one off of one of them.

- -Stefan
 1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
 70Cutlass@Beer.com

- --- KarlAunan@aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 99-05-09 22:36:06 EDT, you write:
> 
> <<  I've never done an intake swap, but I've heard it's not that
> difficult.  
> I'd be either rebuilding the carb that's on that intake, or maybe
> buying an 
> Edelbrock or Holly 650. >>
> 
> The toughest part can be removing it from the donor car.
> 
> Nothing quite so fun as an off-balance dead lift against a
> well-sealed 
> intake, not fun with the cast iron BB jobs.
> 
> Have not heard much praise for the 305 quadrajets.
> The only advantage possible is that it should have "71"or "72" jets
> and a "J" 
> hanger which are fairly common for 350s, and the secondary rods could
> work on 
> your application.
> Your rebuild would necessitate removing any CCC related materials,
> which 
> prolly involves lotsa solenoids, and such, possibly a throttle
> position 
> sensor, not to mention sealing the vacc line for the EGR pump.
> Then it might work.
> Maybe.
> OTOH, for $10 over the cost of the intake, you get the hanger you
> will need 
> and the jets that you might want later. Mebbe.
> 
> The FAQ shows 69 and 70 jets for 1970 applications.
> Bigger jets will be needed if you cam up though....
> 
> Best bet, look for a pre-1975 Qjet.
> On the 1973-1974 you need only seal off EGR and re-rod.
> 1975 introduced some other complicated internals that best not
> discussed.
> (due to ignorance)
> 
> SOM
> 
> &KA
> 

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 15:06:50 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Carb thoughts: Question about the 81-85 A4 aluminum intake 

In a message dated 5/10/99 12:01:48 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
sgadecki@yahoo.com writes:

<< I'm going to head back over to the yard in about a week or so.  Do 1971
 Buicks and/or Pontiacs have Quadrajet carbs?  There's a 71 Skylark, and
 a couple of 71-2 Lemanses, so If they have quadrajets too, I can prolly
 get one off of one of them.
 
 -Stefan >>

	GM used Q-jets on everything, including trucks (Chev and Cadi's do us 
no good..different fuel inlet than BOP. Look for an 800CFM unit if you get a 
chance to get it. Not real common, good find 
though.  				
										
										
		Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 15:22:18 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Steele Rubber Products.  Good choice?

yes A&M Soffseal.  A friend has used their products to do his CHevelle.
They offer a very good product.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Drew Senko <dsenko@UU.NET>
To: olds <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 1999 12:40 PM
Subject: Steele Rubber Products. Good choice?


> I'm looking into buying new rubber moldings to replace the various
> worn parts on my 71 Cutlass convertible.  I've looked at Steele Rubber
> Products and they have a kit for about $110 for my car.  I'm not sure
> what all is included in the kit at this time.  Steele's website is at:
> http://www.steelerubber.com
>
> Does anyone else have Steele rubber products on their car?
>
> Do you recommend any other company for better quality or prices?
>
>  --                    ______________                     _
> Drew Senko            / Convertibles \                    |\
> dsenko@uu.net         \_____Rule!____/     .__====-_._____|_\______
> Vienna, VA, USA                     O      [   ___  |-     |  ___  \
> http://members.aol.com/drewinva       o o  =\_//.\\_|______|_//.\\__)
> _______________________________________________\_/____________\_/_____
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 15:22:50 EDT
From: Oldsfire@aol.com
Subject: Re: Steele Rubber Products.  Good choice?

Drew, a company that I've had good luck with is A&M SoftSeal Inc.   
1-800-426-0902  Call them and get a catalog from them.  Their prices seem to 
be real good and they have a wide selection of rubber products!!   John    
Oldsfire@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 16:02:28 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Broke my Windshield

Jeff,
Thank you SIR!  You are the man.  I'll be talkin to ya soon.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Mrmagic442@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 1999 12:11 PM
Subject: Re: Broke my Windshield


>   Okay.. Here's the scoop.  I have the ability to let you pick up your
> windshields in 103 locations around the country. the 68-69 windshields
cost
> 115.89 and the 70-72 windshields cost 122.94. This is OEM glass from LOF.
>
>      Windshield Magic
>       1-800-560-8061
>               Jeff
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 15:59:46 EDT
From: Jim68442@aol.com
Subject: Re: 68 2 piece Rotors

A 68 what?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 15:15:42 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: TBI question

Andy;
If you can tell by the exhaust note if the choke is closed then you have a
much better ear than I do. Have you seen it close when cold, by visual
means, looking at it? The heat riser closing when cold would change the
exhaust sound also. I had a heat riser that made noise when cold that
sounded like lifters or a pinging noise. Confused the heck out of me,
replaced the lifters and still had the noise. Finally stumbled on it.
Pinging when cold would have to be a very very lean engine, so lean it
would be a bear to start if it did. Just tossing out ideas, good luck and
let us know if you find something.
Lou
PS I heard piston pins make a similar noise when cold also.

- ----------
> From: Andy Lawrence <lawrencj@coral.indstate.edu>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: TBI question
> Well i agree with you there, but when the engine is cold the computer
> automatically chokes the engine!  So it is running richer, i can verify
this by
> hearing the exhaust!
> 
> This problems seems very puzzleing to me, it doesn't seem right!  I keep
> thinking that something with wrong with my engine.....

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 15:19:40 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: MSD6AL box

>>   I`ve tried hooking the MSD box up but it`s not right. The diagrams in
the instructions show hook-ups for 5 and 7 pin modual and the Accel
distributor that I have is a 4 pin type. The only 4 pin they show is for
a HEI w/ magnetic pickup. Does anyone know how to properly hook this up
to an Accel HEI ?<<

The Accel HEI is no different in operation and design that the GM HEI 
(aside from adjusted performance specs) so basically if the Accel dist
module goes out you could put a stock delco module in and it would
work.  With that said, use the directions from MSD for the HEI and all
should work fine.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 14:34:58 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: SB OLDS in 80's F body

I was wondering if anyone has or knows what is involved in putting a SB Olds
in a late 80's Camaro or Firebird/Trans Am.  My friend just bough a '88
IROC-Z with a TBI 305 and 700R-4.  I like the car but the motor leaves much
to be desired.  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 16:45:44 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: SB OLDS in 80's F body

I was wondering if anyone has or knows what is involved in putting a SB Olds
in a late 80's Camaro or Firebird/Trans Am.  My friend just bough a '88
IROC-Z with a TBI 305 and 700R-4.  I like the car but the motor leaves much
to be desired.  Thanks.
_______

What are your emissions inspection requirements?  Even assuming it fits (and 
the
third generation F-body is a stuff for any engine), you'd need to transplant 
the
CCC Q-jet and computer from a similar vintage 307 to be smog legal (of course,
you'd also need to convince the inspector that the transplanted 403 really 
_was_
an '88 307...).  It pains me to say this, but the most cost effective swap is
probably to transplant an LT-1, as it bolts up to the motor mounts and trans,
and will be smog legal with the inclusion of all the smog equipment.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 21:01:07 GMT
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Seat covers

Hi all and Chris F.,

No, I haven't found an exact match, yet.  I found several aftermarket seat 
covers.  Most have alternating wide and small quilted ribs (2",1/2").  From 
the samples I have recieved both McCullough's and Marathon seem to have the 
same upholstery material supplier, Viking quilt.

Both are about the same price.  They claim to be pattern cut to fit but not 
OEM.  So, they are patterned to fit, not patterned to match exactly.  They 
both come with a hog ring pliers and hog rings.

If you are interested in upholstering your car, here are a few tips.

My neighbors, where I grew up ,were upholsterers, so I have done this 
before.  It is pretty easy to do.  Like most car projects, you just have to 
have patience.  First take the seats out.  Check the springs for broken or 
bent springs and where they are fastened to the seat frame.  If you don't 
have broken springs you will not have to rebuild the whole seat.

Replace any foam that is missing or severely damaged.  It is readily 
available at your local upholstery or fabric shop.  The foams made today are 
better and come in different densities.  High density foam goes in butt 
areas and the lighter airier foams in the knee areas.  Super77 spray is a 
great adhesive to hold foam in place.  Cut foam with a sharp utility knife 
or a hot wire (hanger will do).

It is a good idea use a  muslin or cotton cloth to hold foam in place.  It 
will also keep the seat cover from having friction directly with foam.  It 
will allow the foam and seat cover to slide over each other and allow the 
foam to breath.  Tie or sew it down in to place.  If all this is done you 
will now have buckets or bench seats ready to upholster.  Sit in them and 
see if they feel comfortable.  Now is the time to add that extra lumbar 
support, if you haven't already.

Ok, your set.  Toss your seat covers in the dryer at low heat or leave them 
outside in the sun.  You need them soft, supple, and able to stretch.  Get a 
few trash bags or plastic grocery bags for this next part.  Now that your 
seat covers are warm and supple, put the trash bags over the seats.  Then 
stretch the seat covers over the seats.  The trash bags slide and will make 
it easier to stretch the seat covers over the seats.  Pull and align the 
covers.  For most, do the bottom of the seats first then the top.  Use hog 
rings to mount to frame.  Try not to stretch the upholstery too much.  It 
should be taught not overly stretched.  It will shrink over time.  So if it 
is overly stretched it will tear easier as it shrinks.

Marathon Seat Covers
520 West Griffin Dr.
Bozeman, MT 59715
406-587-4001
marathon@avicom.net

McCullough's
15102 Bolsa Chica,unit A1
Huntington Beach,CA 92649
1-800-395-9624

Good Luck,

Chris Rivier


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 17:29:38 -0700
From: stephen minore <steven.minore@snet.net>
Subject: Re: !!!NEEDED!!! : used SB headers

Matt Cremean wrote:
> 
> Hi guys and gals,
> 
>         Once again, I am looking for ANYONE whoa has a set of USED small 
block
> headers FOR CHEAP that will fit a 70 Cutlass. I'm talking like the $50
> range. I had e-mails of people who did, but wouldn't you know my
> computer decided it wanted to crash and deleted all of them. The Unit
> project is about to get underway and I need something besides manifolds
> to flow that 230° cam I bought. Also found out that I have to get
> headwork done on the #6's so I can use correct valve springs. So, in the
> meantime, I'll just use the #8's I have sitting in my garage. :-) I knew
> they'd be worth having for some reason!!!
> 
> Toodles,
> --
> ***********
> Matt Cremean
> mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
> *************************
> http://drive.to/73cutlass
> -----------------------
> '73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
> '70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
> '75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
> *************************allright matt i have a nother set i found in my 
garage last night for 
small block olds, $45 


let me know,


steve

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 18:05:03 -0400
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: TBI question

Andy,
    Here is a thought - when the engine is cold the computer runs in open loop.
Now I'm not sure if your engine has a knock sensor but if it does I don't 
believe
they effect the timing until the computer goes into closed loop operation.  It
could be that your base timing is set too high and under closed loop 
conditions the
computer (via the knock sensor) is retarding it - something that won't happen
during open loop (cold) operation.  Now this theory would only work if you 
have a
knock sensor.  But on a side note - have you checked your base timing?  (Don't
forget to unplug the flat four connector first)
Like I said - just a theory...
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a Jetaway and 2.73's :-(


Andy Lawrence wrote:

> Lou Biggs wrote:
>
> > 2 cents;
> > And detonation occurs when you have a spark and the heat and pressure cause
> > another fire to start in the combustion chamber at the same time, the two
> > flame fronts collide and broken pieces occur. Pinging and detonation are
> > NOT the same. Starting the flame all over again. Miss me?
> > Lou
> > PS Could be running very lean when cold, that would cause it too. Lean
> > mixtures cause pinging and detonation both.
>
> Well i agree with you there, but when the engine is cold the computer
> automatically chokes the engine!  So it is running richer, i can verify this 
by
> hearing the exhaust!
>
> This problems seems very puzzleing to me, it doesn't seem right!  I keep
> thinking that something with wrong with my engine.....

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 17:10:17 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: HEI coil - Bad?

Here's the deal, I put an HEI in my 68 Supreme yesterday and
the car idles fine but it just doesn't have much power when you
get on it.  The timing is set to 23 degrees initial with total timing
of 32 degrees in by about 1500 rpm.  I'm gonna stick in a stock
sets of weights and springs and redo the timing but I'm thinking
that the coil may be on it's way out.  My question is what is the 
testing procedure for the coil?  I seem to remember there being a
ohm value to check for but can't remember much more.  It's not
missing, just doesn't have as much power as the points system.
And yes, I re-ran the "BAT" wire to a good 12V source.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 16:15:41 -0700
From: Halit Soykut <halit@home.com>
Subject: Mime-Version: 1.0

<html>
<table border=0>
<tr><td width=780><br>
</td></tr>
</table>
<font size=3>i have a 48 oldsmobiule and it has the stright 8 cylender it
has not ran it 8 yeahrs. what shoudl i do befor e i start it?? na dhow
hard is it to rebuild? if you can ont answer can i get an email address
to one who would knwo thansk:) <br>
wahts an oldmobile good email site?<br>
Thansk <br>
john,.<br>
</font>
<BR>
</html>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 18:27:23 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: !!!NEEDED!!! : used SB headers

stephen minore wrote:
> 
allright matt i have a nother set i found in my garage last night for
> small block olds, $45
> 
> let me know,
> 
> steve

Ok, thanks Steve. I'll let you know if I need them or not since you are
among a few  who have given me some decent offers.

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
*************************
http://drive.to/73cutlass
- -----------------------
'73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
'70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
'75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
*************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 18:30:38 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Still Looking for a 455 and/or TH400

Well Oldsmofolk, 
	My buddy and his dad are are still looking for a 455 to cram in a
G-body. So if anyone out there has a decent running, possibly mildly
built 455, or a good BOP TH400, or both, please let me know.

thanks guys!
- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
*************************
http://drive.to/73cutlass
- -----------------------
'73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
'70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
'75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
*************************

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 18:30:47 EDT
From: Biscayne2d@aol.com
Subject: Re: !!!NEEDED!!! : used SB headers

Anyone happen to have a cheap used set for a 78-81 Cutlass? I need a cheap 
set to replace my rotted factory exhaust in my 79. W a 85 307 in it. I have 
no emissions worries so thats not a concern thank you all

Paul in WI
79

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 19:14:44 -0400
From: Andy Mikesell <andymikesell@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Still Looking for a 455 and/or TH400

I assume you're in Michigan, based on your mailing address.  Here in the
Boston (Mass) area we have a Want Ads that runs weekly, so  I pulled a few
interesting listings for the list.  I know there a list etiquette on this
type of posting, so I make this a one time posting to your original inquiry.

1970 OLDS 455 MOTOR & TURBO 400 TRANS
Offenhauser intake, 10:1 pistons, 500 ft/#'s of torque & 340hp stock. Drive
shaft incl. $250. Call Steve. (Amherst)  413-253-3220 (cw)

OLDS 455 ENG
All mach work done, have all bearings. Nds pistons & cam. $1200. Call Jeff.
(Norwell) 781-659-4593

OLDS 455 ENG
All done, low mi. Asking $1200; (Dover) 508-668-6916

Olds 455 eng w/55K mi. Runs exc. $300; GM Turbo 400, 4000 stall, hardened
shafts, alum drum, sprag, manual valve body, reverse, shift pattern. 5 runs.
$800; GM Turbo 400, 4000 stall, billet shafts, trans brake, alum drum, sprag,
racing clutches, reverse, shift pattern, deep pan, all shields. $800; Ford 9"
rear end. Fits G body.  Dutchman axles, 31 spline, Detroit locker, truss
brace, 410's, So. side bars, drag shocks, Nodular case. $1500; Big Chief
intake. 4-bbl dominator. Ported. All new. $850; 1000cfm Carb Shop carb. New.
$600; T-bird bucket seats. $50;
GM radiator, G-body, auto. Almost new. $100; Continental 5000 stall
converter. $400; Ford C-6 trans. Fits 351M. $125. Other BBC parts avail. Call
Ken. (Buzzards Bay) 508-759-6567, (Falmouth) 508-548-9231



Matt Cremean wrote:

> Well Oldsmofolk,
>         My buddy and his dad are are still looking for a 455 to cram in a
> G-body. So if anyone out there has a decent running, possibly mildly
> built 455, or a good BOP TH400, or both, please let me know.
>
> thanks guys!
> --
> ***********
> Matt Cremean
> mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
> *************************
> http://drive.to/73cutlass
> -----------------------
> '73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
> '70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
> '75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
> *************************

- --
http://people.ne.mediaone.net/andymikesell

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1950
*********************************

