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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1911


oldsmobile-digest       Sunday, April 18 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1911



350/455 motor mounts
Problems
Re: My olds won't start
Re: Primer...
Re: Car Back Together- FIrst Ride
Re: My olds won't start
Re: Problems
Re: question on 455 heads
Re: My Olds
FS: '65 Cutlass Fenders 
Re: My olds won't start
Re: bushings
Re: Problems
Re: Rear end question...
my olds
Re: Fuel Pump to Carb line
RE: my olds
Oldsmobile blocks
RE: Problems
Re: my olds
RE: O-type rearend
Re: my olds
Re: [Re: Headers]
Re: my olds
unsubscribeoldsmobile
Mostervision
Re: Primer...
Fwd: 1948 oldsmobile o.e.m. parts book 
1974 Cutlass Supreme
Re: my olds
Olds 3.42 or 3.91 ring & pinion
UNBOUNCE: 1974 Cutlass Supreme
Re: My olds won't start
Re: Problems
Re: mud flaps on '84 Delta?
Re: vin Y v.s. vin 9 PROM chips
Re: compression test
Re: Rear end question...
Re: Car Back Together- FIrst Ride
Re: Primer...
Re: Problems
gainsville sat night
junkyards dot com
Re: vin Y v.s. vin 9 PROM chips
Re: Console Lock Retainer
Re: Nuetral Safety Switch Bracket
Still Looking for a Nice Driver
th200c v.s. th200-4r PROM differences? 
O.D. vs 3 speed PROMS - '84 Delta
Re: Primer...
Re: junkyards dot com
Re: Console Lock Retainer
MSD schematic
Thanks! Re: fast idle ... gone?
Did you see that 67 "442" !!!
[none]
Re: Still Looking for a Nice Driver
Re: Primer...
Re: Did you see that 67 "442" !!!
Re: Problems
Re: R-12 to R-134 conversion
RE: Did you see that 67 "442" !!!
Re: Yellow paint on a 442?
Yellow Paint
Re: Primer...
mew member
Next carb problem--no secondaries?
Re: R-12 to R-134 conversion
Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?
Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?
Re: mew member

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 20:55:30 EDT
From: COUPEKING@aol.com
Subject: 350/455 motor mounts

Put the 350/350 back into my '69 Supreme and find that the trans mission is 
too high in the tunnel, and the motor appears too low in the frame. Thought I 
had the right mounts, but I suspect the mounts I have in there are wrong, 
making the motor too low and screwing up the tranny/driveshaft geometry.

Which motor mount is the taller? the 455 or the 350? Suspect I need taller 
ones than I've got.

Peter
coupeking@aol.com
San Pedro, CA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 21:03:20 EDT
From: CChand4644@aol.com
Subject: Problems

My 70 olds cutlass s(new 455! Highrise Man. cam ,10:1 balanced, headers, 3:73 
rear.) After driving for a while, It starts to heat up the inside of the 
car(Heater is off) The engine just bakes my feet. It is tolerable but has any 
one ever had to remedy this problem? 
What kind of rpm limit should I use with this engine? I had it up to 5200 rpm 
on the highway, the speedo was almost back to zero. The speedo is 20mph too 
fast due to changing the rear end to 3:73. The engine felt as though it had 
more rpm.
You can see the car at Kelly Erickson's home page under friends rides, blue 
70 cutlass S.  http://iscool.net/html/popup.html
Thanks
Chris

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 21:16:11 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: My olds won't start

In a message dated 4/17/99 5:48:23 PM Central Daylight Time, 
Anyolds4me@aol.com writes:

<< My 71 cutlass won't start.  I put the key in and turn it, the generator 
light 
 comes on, my power windows and headlights work, but the darn thing won't 
turn 
 over!  The battery is new.  Any suggestions on where to start?
  >>
  Have you tried looking at the nuetral/reverse safety switch? Are the 
terminals clean and tight? Is the igniton switch working properly? Have you 
checked the fuse?(I don't know much about you year model, but mine doesn't 
have a fuse)  Just suggestions....

Collyn

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 21:21:10 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Primer...

In a message dated 4/17/99 5:52:05 PM Central Daylight Time, Dshack4@aol.com 
writes:

<< Anyone have any suggestions on what kind of primer I should use?  The car 
was 
 painted red in 84, and now it is flying off when I shoot the garden hose at 
 it!  I am going to take all the paint off with a razor.  One thing I 
noticed, 
 the primer under the paint is extrememly smooth.  Shouldn't the primer be 
 semi-rough to all the new paint to "grab" it?  Any help with this is 
 appreciated, as usual!
  >>
  I always use "2K" three part epoxy primer. No, the primer doesn't have to 
be "rough" for the paint to stick. It is more likely a problem with the 
previous paint/primer combination being incompatable with each other. 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 21:26:58 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Car Back Together- FIrst Ride

In a message dated 4/17/99 6:23:00 PM Central Daylight Time, 
Dr-Olds@webtv.net writes:

<<  The shifter, when put in low
 gear, seems to hesitate
 just a little to put the car in low.  Feels like the
 linkage wants to go just a bit further.  But, it also feels like the
 shifter could use a bit more travel
 in the Park direction as well.  I don't see any
 way to adjust anything on this shifter/cable/ linkage assembly.  Is
 there something I may
 have missed?  The low gear is no big deal.
 The park became a big deal because I was
 trying to park on a slight incline, and the car
 tried to park, but the car was rolling back a
 bit with large click along the way.
 
 Also developed a transmission fluid leak that
 lands right on the exhaust manifolds.  I think
 that the leak came after the transmission slippage.  
 
 Any clues on the s >>
  It ~SHOULD~ be adjustable. Look at where the cable connects to the shift 
arm on the side of the transmission. Also where it connects to the shifter 
itself. It should have a adjustment nut at either end of the cable. 

Collyn

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 21:28:16 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: My olds won't start

In a message dated 4/17/99 6:25:15 PM Central Daylight Time, 
costanzo@netcarrier.com writes:

<<  And when the fire goes out, all the battery acid
 smoke will go straight up your nose.  Then you'll have to leave your car
 there and go for a ride in your friend's Falcon and buy a new battery from
 the store you hate the most [i.e. Pep Boys] because you have no choice.  And
 then you'll finf out that you fried the solenoid on your starter and you'll
 have to go buy a new starter from that same store and replace it in a gravel
 parking lot of a gas station in the middle of Oley PA.  Or something like
 that.
  >>
  Personal experiences?...hahahahahahahaaaaaaaa

Collyn 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 21:31:21 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Problems

In a message dated 4/17/99 8:05:27 PM Central Daylight Time, 
CChand4644@aol.com writes:

<< After driving for a while, It starts to heat up the inside of the 
 car(Heater is off) The engine just bakes my feet. It is tolerable but has 
any 
 one ever had to remedy this problem? >>
  I had a Cam*ro with the same symtoms...it was due to the lack of sound/heat 
insulation under the carpet.

Collyn

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 21:31:57 EDT
From: Oldsfire@aol.com
Subject: Re: question on 455 heads

Steve, most all of the Big Block Olds heads have the same cc chamber size, 80 
cc's, The pistons were dished different depths for different compression 
ratios.  The early 455 heads and most of the 400  425 heads were better heads 
because they had more room for mods and such.  The later 455 heads were not 
very good at breathing.    For moe info on Olds heads, contact Joe Mondello, 
in California.  He can expain it better than I can!!    John     
Oldsfire@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 21:40:26 EDT
From: Oldsfire@aol.com
Subject: Re: My Olds

Don't know of anyplace off hand, but welcome to the land of the "STARFIRE"    
Have a 66 Starfire that is restoration prcess now.    John    Oldsfire@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 21:46:30 -0400
From: Gene Gatti <jerseydevil@mindspring.com>
Subject: FS: '65 Cutlass Fenders 

Hi Guys,
    I was at Englishtown today and found a set of '65 Cutlass fenders. I
thought they might fit my '64 so I bought them. After I got home I test fit
one of them and it seemed just fine until I put the hood on. Arrggghhh! The
'65 fender is about 1" longer than the '64 so the front edge of the hood
does not line up with it. Anyway, except for some minor surface rust on one
and very minor damage to the other they are in great shape. I paid $300 for
them and I'll let them go for that amount or will trade for '64 Cutlass
fenders in similar condition. Also I'm going to Carlisle next Friday so we
could meet there if you are interested or you can pick them up in South
Jersey at my house. Email me if you are interested and we can work something
out. Thanks,
Gene 
jerseydevil@mindspring.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 20:57:26 -0500 (CDT)
From: blue442@webtv.net (Jeff Carter)
Subject: Re: My olds won't start

If it's a bad starter, a few whacks with a hammer, while holding the key
in the start position, will usually allow it to turn over.  This will
also allow a standard in gear to use you as a curb stop.  Same goes for
an auto with a bypassed neutral safety switch.  So be careful, eh? 

Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 22:01:37 EDT
From: Oldsfire@aol.com
Subject: Re: bushings

Mike, you might try PST   Performance Suspension Technology.  P.O. Box 396   
Montville, N.J. 07045  (201)299-8019               John Oldsfire@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 22:05:56 EDT
From: Biscayne2d@aol.com
Subject: Re: Problems

A frend of Mine also had the same problem in his old Olds he had a 403 in it 
and after driving for awhile if you touched the floorbords it would burn you, 
It turned out to be a bad converter in the exhaust and the lack of a heat 
shield and the floor was getting ALL the heat generated by the bad Converter
Paul 79

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 22:27:27 EDT
From: Four42man@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rear end question...

I once tried to put a rear out of a 75 Cutlass into a 69 Cutlass rag top.  
The bottom control arms bolted in fine.  The upper ones did not.  I ended up 
having to cut the upper control arms, offset them and then weld them 
together.  After I did that the travel was fine, with no binding, and the 
arms bolted right in.  The offset in the upper arms ended up being about half 
the width of the control arm.  If you do this make sure you reinforce the 
control arms with extra pieces of steel.  

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 22:36:09 -0400
From: Derek Reynolds <dereynol@vt.edu>
Subject: my olds

I just joined the list today and wanted to take this time to introduce
myself and my car.  I  am a 20 year old student at Virginia Tech and I have
a 1987 Olds Cutlass Supreme Broughman.  The car has 49,000 miles and has
everything execpt t-tops.  It has no door dings but a good paint job is in
its future due to its rapidly fading burgundy paint.

Derek Reynolds
Dereynol@vt.edu
- --

Derek Reynolds
Dereynol@vt.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 22:48:57 -0400
From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump to Carb line

Yes, you can do this, but it's not as safe as a metal line, IMHO.  PO of my
'71 had done this, and I had a near engine-fatal catastrophe in the first
year I drove it.  See, the rubber hose gets really baked by the manifold
heat when it runs over and near the front of the engine- mine got so brittle
it snapped one day while it was idling (I was adjusting the choke at the
time).  Man, it can really pump out a lot of gas all over the place in the
time it takes to run around to the driver side and shut it off!  No flames,
luckily.
- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris Rivier <crivier@hotmail.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, April 17, 1999 7:17 PM
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump to Carb line


>Hi all,
>
>>From previous:...In addition, the line should be square ... (and) you
>may have to "fine-tune" the bends.
>
>If all else fails and you mistakenly bend it too far or break it you
>can use a fuel line.  I had to do this on my '72.  I tried making a
>new aluminum fuel line with no success.  So then, I made the
>connecting end from the carb first and left some length to clear the
>air cleaner.  I made a similar one from the fuel pump and then
>connected the two with a fuel line (hose) that I cut to fit and
>clamped it on.  Not stock but it worked fine.
>
>Just my $.02,
>
>Chris Rivier
>Austin,TX
>
>_______________________________________________________________
>Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 22:49:40 -0400
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: my olds

Welcome there Derek.  Cool car.  49k, huh?
Do you know about the G-Body list?



Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 3.8 Calais
Bucks County, PA
mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Derek Reynolds
Sent: Saturday, April 17, 1999 10:36 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: my olds


I just joined the list today and wanted to take this time to introduce
myself and my car.  I  am a 20 year old student at Virginia Tech and I have
a 1987 Olds Cutlass Supreme Broughman.  The car has 49,000 miles and has
everything execpt t-tops.  It has no door dings but a good paint job is in
its future due to its rapidly fading burgundy paint.

Derek Reynolds
Dereynol@vt.edu
- --

Derek Reynolds
Dereynol@vt.edu

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 23:21:32 EDT
From: NuttyB12@aol.com
Subject: Oldsmobile blocks

I would like to know if you people can send me visuals of the "F" differnce 
on Olds 350 Rocket engines. The "F" is what deteremines the quality of a 
block for nickle quantity

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 22:26:47 -0500
From: "Stephan" <zappa@goodthing.net>
Subject: RE: Problems

Did you happen to put a heater bypass valve back on it?
 I know I didn't put one back on mine and it gets kinda hot also.

Stephan
70 GoldOlds
- -----Original Message-----
From:	oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of CChand4644@aol.com
Sent:	Saturday, April 17, 1999 8:03 PM
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:	Problems

My 70 olds cutlass s(new 455! Highrise Man. cam ,10:1 balanced, headers,
3:73
rear.) After driving for a while, It starts to heat up the inside of the
car(Heater is off) The engine just bakes my feet. It is tolerable but has
any
one ever had to remedy this problem?
What kind of rpm limit should I use with this engine? I had it up to 5200
rpm
on the highway, the speedo was almost back to zero. The speedo is 20mph too
fast due to changing the rear end to 3:73. The engine felt as though it had
more rpm.
You can see the car at Kelly Erickson's home page under friends rides, blue
70 cutlass S.  http://iscool.net/html/popup.html
Thanks
Chris

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 23:24:30 EDT
From: Biscayne2d@aol.com
Subject: Re: my olds

I dont know about the G-body list where is it and how do i get on it?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 22:33:23 -0500
From: "Stephan" <zappa@goodthing.net>
Subject: RE: O-type rearend

The PowerTrax Performance locker just replaces the spider gears. They
advertise that it can be done in less than 3 hours and from the brochures I
have received it does look very simple.
As for the antispin unit I don't have one at this time. I am running a open
diff. With a 455. Not a whole lot of traction. :)))

Stephan
70 GoldOlds

- -----Original Message-----
From:	oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca] On Behalf Of Greg Rollin
Sent:	Saturday, April 17, 1999 4:29 PM
To:	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject:	Re: O-type rearend

Stephan wrote:
>
> I currently have 2:56 gears in it and I am looking to put positraction in.
I
> found a NOS unit in South Carolina but I would need to change my gears and
I
> would like to keep them for gas mileage. I was looking at the Powertrax
> performance locker and talked to a tech guy that said he could help me if
I
> knew the dimensions from the thrust face to the thrust face of the spider
> gears. And the dimension of the side gear also. I took the cover off and
> tried to measure everything, but without pulling it all apart it was
> impossible to get even a close approximation. Since this is a daily driver
I
> was unwilling to disassemble it. I was hoping that maybe somebody would
have
> this information available already.
>
> Stephan
> 70 Gold Olds



Stephan,

I'm not quite understanding why he would want the
measurements you list.  The inside spacing between
the side gear thrust surfaces is the same for all 1967
thru 1970 Anti-Spin O axles.  Besides, this distance will
have no effect on the position of the ring gear on the
carrier in relation to the pinion centerline.  The offset
of the ring gear mounting surface of the carrier is what
allows which ratio ring and pinion to be used with which
carrier.  NOT the side gear inside spacing.  Check with
the tech guy again to confirm which dimentions he needs.
We've got a 2.56 Anti-Spin carrier here that I could take
some measurements off of for you.


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!)
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Web Site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 22:38:06 -0500
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
Subject: Re: my olds

Biscayne wrote:
	
	I dont know about the G-body list where is it and how do i get
on it?

	Go to http://www.cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ to get all the info. you
need on joining the G-body list.

	Take care,

Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
Columbus, MS         1987 442

http://www.442.com/newman.html               1987 442
http://www.442.com/newmantape.html        Centennial Tape Info.  

------------------------------

Date: 17 Apr 99 21:26:45 PDT
From: Randy Hermsen <76Cutlass@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: Headers]

Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com> wrote:
SHELTERMEN@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Anyone know of a header that will fit on a '76 cutlass frame with a Ch*vy
350
> in it.  My local speed shop is drawing a blank.
> 
> Tim
> 76 Cutlass street stock
> 67 Delmont


Tim,

I would imagine the headers for a 1976 Chevelle 
with a 350 would be a direct fit.  

 
Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Web Site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com
Hi greg next weekend Ill be puttin in W-Z factory olds exhaust manifolds they
have the center ports devided true duel exhaust on 350 olds block R code 76 
cutlass Ill be lettin you know big time if they fit lolol
                                    randy
                                       76 cutlass

____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://webmail.netscape.com.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 23:37:05 -0500
From: "Glen Hankins" <hankins5@hit.net>
Subject: Re: my olds

Wlsome to the list, Derek.   : )

Glen


>I just joined the list today and wanted to take this time to introduce
>myself and my car.  
>Derek Reynolds

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 00:40:34 EDT
From: HCoons2818@aol.com
Subject: unsubscribeoldsmobile

Please take me off the list for a while.  Thanks.
Harold Coons
E-mail address is:   HCoons2818@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 01:31:34 EDT
From: DrkSole96@aol.com
Subject: Mostervision

Was watching the Road Warrior on Monstervision.  The host, Jo Bob Briggs 
mentioned his old car, a 72 Toronado that's been on blocks in his yard for 
seven years.  Pretty cool how he described it too.. 

Donovan 
73 Cutlass Supreme

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 01:10:02 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Primer...

The primer does not have to be rough.Painters will sand the primer smooth
to almost like wet sanding. This will ensure the color paint put on top
will look smooth and not bumpy or full of scratches....What type of paint
was used (DuPont, PPG)???
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Dshack4@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Primer...
> Date: Saturday, April 17, 1999 5:51 PM
> 
> Anyone have any suggestions on what kind of primer I should use?  The car
was 
> painted red in 84, and now it is flying off when I shoot the garden hose
at 
> it!  I am going to take all the paint off with a razor.  One thing I
noticed, 
> the primer under the paint is extrememly smooth.  Shouldn't the primer be


> semi-rough to all the new paint to "grab" it?  Any help with this is 
> appreciated, as usual!
> 
> Thanks
> David
> 
> 71 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 23:03:20 -0700
From: James Thingwold <jht@exo.com>
Subject: Fwd: 1948 oldsmobile o.e.m. parts book 

Got this message that might be of interest to someone out there.  Reply
personally as directed.


>X-From_: Katbirdz@aol.com Sat Apr 17 07:48:03 1999
>From: Katbirdz@aol.com
>Date: Sat, 17 Apr 1999 10:47:08 EDT
>Subject: 1948 oldsmobile o.e.m. parts book 
>To: Lisa@hotglass.com
>X-Mailer: AOL 4.0 for Windows 95 sub 13
>Reply-To: Katbirdz@aol.com
>
>dear lisa
>
>I am not a classic car owner but I recognise how hard it is to reclaim and 
>purchase any form of antiquity.
>
>Recently, I  came across a good to excellent copy of a 1948 original 
>equipment manufacturers parts book and inked diagram assembly and break down 
>for a 1948 oldsmobile. If any of your club members are interested in 
>purchasing this book, please contact me at: fverd@juno.com  .  My name is 
>Frank and I live in Massachussets.
>
>I also have a good to excellent pocket edition of a 1948 Automobile Insurance 
>Investigators handbook, which shows how and where to identify the 
>manufacturers identification numbers.
>
>Please respond back.
>
>Thanks very much :  Frank from Mass. 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 02:37:12 EDT
From: JeffPaletz@aol.com
Subject: 1974 Cutlass Supreme

I have a 1974 Cutlass Supreme 4 door model, which I bought new in 1974. It 
has about 104,000 miles on it with the original 350 V8 engine. I have been 
storing it and only driving it occasionally since 1980 or so. I have new rear 
quarter panels that I was going to use to restore the car. I no longer have a 
place to keep the car after April 30 and need to sell it cheap or give it to 
someone who may be interested in it or in restoring the car. I'd hate to see 
it sent to the scrap yard. It ran great as of last fall.

If you are interested in this car or want to inquire about it please email me 
back at:

jeffpaletz@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 04:19:24 EDT
From: Biscayne2d@aol.com
Subject: Re: my olds

Thank you
Paul 79

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 04:31:31 EDT
From: Zeilmanns@aol.com
Subject: Olds 3.42 or 3.91 ring & pinion

Dear fellow Oldsmobilers,

I have a few possibilities that I am checking into, but nothing definate yet, 
so I am re-posting my message in hopes that I can find the right ring and 
pinion set.  

I have my '69 4-4-2 in the shop and am trying to make a NOS 4 series posi
unit work with my original 3.23 gears and it is a no-go situation.  I am
desperately seeking an original set of Olds 3.42 or 3.91 gears for an "o" 
type rear to replace the 3.23s that are currently in there.  HELP!  I am told 
that aftermarket
gears will not work with the OLDS Posi, and truly want to keep it.  We have
contacted Richmond Gear and they can't help us, so I am once again turning
to you folks for assistance.  If you have a spare set of Olds 3.42 or 3.91
gears, or even know where I might find some, please E-mail me directly at
zeilmanns@aol.com.

Any help you can give would be totally appreciated.

Thanks,

Jeff Zeilmann
'69 4-4-2, '69 Cutlass Convertible

314-939-4613

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 07:32:21 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: 1974 Cutlass Supreme

Not on the list, respond to JeffPaletz@aol.com if interested.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	JeffPaletz@aol.com
Subject: 1974 Cutlass Supreme

I have a 1974 Cutlass Supreme 4 door model, which I bought new in 1974. It 
has about 104,000 miles on it with the original 350 V8 engine. I have been 
storing it and only driving it occasionally since 1980 or so. I have new rear 
quarter panels that I was going to use to restore the car. I no longer have a 
place to keep the car after April 30 and need to sell it cheap or give it to 
someone who may be interested in it or in restoring the car. I'd hate to see 
it sent to the scrap yard. It ran great as of last fall.

If you are interested in this car or want to inquire about it please email me 
back at:

jeffpaletz@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 07:00:02 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: My olds won't start

In a message dated 99-04-17 19:25:15 EDT, you write:

Yah, check ~all~ connections so as not to miss the junction of leads from the 
wire harness to the wires that go to the starter in the area of the horn 
relay. 
Corrosion at that junction can cause those symptoms.
You could end up replacing a good starter with a good starter. Then when the 
battery develops a leak because not enough care was taken in setting it down, 
and the leak drops the charge slowly so that you eventually have starting 
problems again. And then replace that good starter with a reman. one that 
does not say that it needs 20 shims to get correct clearance.
So later when the solenoid pops with only three shims, it gets stuck in the 
flexplate and won't turn, you get really fed up and have the car hauled to 
the shop where they're kinda smug about it and say you need a different 
starter and a new battery.

And the corroded junction is still unaddressed.

It could happen, right?

Also, it will not fire if the coil connections are not viable.
But it will still crank fine.

SOM

&KA

<< New battery, eh?  Did you make sure you have a real good tight connection 
on
 both pos and neg posts?  It's quite common that an inferior connection will
 supply power to windows and radio, etc. without any complaints but it won't
 even consider attempting to turn a starter.  You'd think that you'd at least
 here it trying, but it's possible you won't.  If you keep turning the key
 and you have a bad connection, you may start a fire from trying to force all
 that current through a bad connection.  Then you'll have to pull off your
 jacket to put it out.  And when the fire goes out, all the battery acid
 smoke will go straight up your nose.  Then you'll have to leave your car
 there and go for a ride in your friend's Falcon and buy a new battery from
 the store you hate the most [i.e. Pep Boys] because you have no choice.  And
 then you'll finf out that you fried the solenoid on your starter and you'll
 have to go buy a new starter from that same store and replace it in a gravel
 parking lot of a gas station in the middle of Oley PA.  Or something like
 that. >>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 07:01:49 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Problems

In a message dated 99-04-17 21:05:27 EDT, you write:

<<  After driving for a while, It starts to heat up the inside of the 
car(Heater is off) The engine just bakes my feet. It is tolerable but has any 
one ever had to remedy this problem?  >>

Karl wears sandals in the summer.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 08:36:14 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: mud flaps on '84 Delta?

Your local Olds dealer will have them in the parts dept. Saw some the other
day, like $13.95 / pair. They have different sizes, with "Oldsmobile" or
"Cutlass" on them.

You will of course post pictures somewhere?

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 08:43:56 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: vin Y v.s. vin 9 PROM chips

If the vin 'Y' and '9' PROMS differ in engine management - what 
about the different transmissions available in these cars? Is there a 
different PROM to control lock-up on the th200c vs the th200-4r? 
- ---------------------------

ummm....No.

(My turn to make a vague assumption... :-)

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 08:56:39 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: compression test

>  To make a long story short,
>what do I have to remove in place of the nonexistent(?) coil wire?
>


If it's a standard GM HEI ignition, there's a red wire that feeds power to
the distributor cap. A flat blade screw driver works for prying it's lock
tab away from the connector.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 09:16:34 -0400
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Rear end question...

Four42man@aol.com wrote:

> I once tried to put a rear out of a 75 Cutlass into a 69 Cutlass rag top.
> The bottom control arms bolted in fine.  The upper ones did not.  I ended up
> having to cut the upper control arms, offset them and then weld them
> together.  After I did that the travel was fine, with no binding, and the
> arms bolted right in.  The offset in the upper arms ended up being about half
> the width of the control arm.  If you do this make sure you reinforce the
> control arms with extra pieces of steel.

Which way did you have to off set them?  Were the mounting point on the housing
wider or narrower?Todd

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 09:15:09 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Car Back Together- FIrst Ride

"Dr. Olds - K. Wood" wrote:

> Anyway- here's what I've got now.  I installed the dual gate shifter,
> and it's fits great- console
> and everything fits together just fine.  The shifter, when put in low
> gear, seems to hesitate
> just a little to put the car in low.  Feels like the
> linkage wants to go just a bit further.  But, it also feels like the
> shifter could use a bit more travel
> in the Park direction as well.  I don't see any
> way to adjust anything on this shifter/cable/ linkage assembly.  Is
> there something I may
> have missed?  The low gear is no big deal.
> The park became a big deal because I was
> trying to park on a slight incline, and the car
> tried to park, but the car was rolling back a
> bit with large click along the way.

I know EXACTLY what you mean.

There is an adjustment point where the shifter cable connects to the
trans.  The post it connects to can be loosened and slid in a slot then
re-tightened.  This should allow you to put the trans all the way in
park, but you will loose the ability to put the car in 1st gear.

The real problem is the shifter cable.  Yours is either stretched or the
wrong one.  DON'T GET ONE FROM BROTHERS - it's ~slightly~ too long.  Year
One sells one that works perfectly.  You can also get it from your GM
dealer as p/n 0049-8467.

- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
95 Aurora
OCA# 30442

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 09:19:18 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Primer...

>Anyone have any suggestions on what kind of primer I should use?  The car
was
>painted red in 84, and now it is flying off when I shoot the garden hose at
>it!

That truly sucks.

> I am going to take all the paint off with a razor.  One thing I noticed,
>the primer under the paint is extrememly smooth.  Shouldn't the primer be
>semi-rough to all the new paint to "grab" it?

Nope. Primer is typically wet sanded with 400 grit. Some painters dry sand
320. In either case, smooth as a baby's butt. Adhesion problems occur for a
number of reasons... e.g. incompatible primer / top coat, waiting too long
before shooting color, inadequate cleaning after sanding primer.

Red paint usually goes over laquer based red oxide sandable primer. Works
for laquers and most enamels. Polyester and urethane paints want multi-part
hi-tech primers. ASK YOUR PAINT SUPPLIER what primer is recommended for the
top coat you choose.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 09:27:43 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: Problems

CChand4644@aol.com wrote:

> My 70 olds cutlass s(new 455! Highrise Man. cam ,10:1 balanced, headers, 3:73
> rear.) After driving for a while, It starts to heat up the inside of the
> car(Heater is off) The engine just bakes my feet. It is tolerable but has any
> one ever had to remedy this problem?

If it's not coming from your heater then it's probably the headers.  You can 
get
some header tape and wrap them.

- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
95 Aurora
OCA# 30442

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 09:40:41 -0400
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: gainsville sat night

It rained all morning here in gainsville. went to the track just hoping
for a change in the weather., at 1 pm the rain stopped and the cool down
began. the track opened and would only run 1/8 mile, something about the
other end of the track would not come
around. temp is now 50 deg.  first run 7.24 next 7.23  finaly race time
dial in 7.22  at 8.30pm first race , nice burn out , been getting 1.62
60 ft what happens, I get a 1.58 60 ft and run a 7.15 at 96.98. when the
olds breaks out it does it with pride. man this bracket raceing is
tough                      Butch  68   442  post

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 09:48:51 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: junkyards dot com

There is a web site somewhere that allows you to place a request for used
parts, and you get responded to by the parts yardes that can help.

I lost the link to it. Anybody know the site I'm talking about?

Tnx.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 10:06:41 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: vin Y v.s. vin 9 PROM chips

In a message dated 4/18/99 8:48:24 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
david.cullen@snet.net writes:

<< Is there a 
 different PROM to control lock-up on the th200c vs the th200-4r?  >>
Yes there is a difference.....my simple answer....
Hot Rod Harry <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/">HOT ROD HARRY'S 
OLDSMOBILES
</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 10:32:14 EDT
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Console Lock Retainer

jim, i got some.  send me your address again and i will get one out to you.  
steven, w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 10:36:14 EDT
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Nuetral Safety Switch Bracket

In a message dated 4/17/99 5:57:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
drolds350@webtv.net writes:

<< 
 I am need of the bracket that the nuetral safety switch hooks up to.
 This is for a dualgate shifter out of a '70 Rallye. Does anyone have
 one, or know where I could get one?
 Thanks!
 
 Jim McKeague
 '70 Rallye 350
 '70 Cutlass S W-31
  >>
jim, which bracket are we talking about here?  is it the one that bolts to 
the floor or the one that bolts to the slide arm in the switch?  steven, 
w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 11:06:49 EDT
From: OldsRokkit@aol.com
Subject: Still Looking for a Nice Driver

Looking for a nice 76-88 Cutlass, 77-84 Ninety-Eight, or 77-85 Delta 88 to
become my next vehicle.  *Maybe* a 79-85 Toronado or, if I can't find any of
the above, an 87-91 Cutlass Calais or Cutlass Ciera of any year.  Doesn't have
to be showroom condition, but I don't want a basket-case, either.  Must be
reliable, well-maintained, and in good or better condition.  No diesels, V6's
(except Calais/Ciera), or "slantback" Cutlass Salons.  Nicer is better, of
course.  Ideally, I would find Granny's Grocery Getter with low miles on a
smaller V-8.  Not looking for a race car (give me your 260's!), just a nice
car that I can drive without any problems.  If I don't find one soon, I'll
have to break down and buy a NON-OLDS car!  Let me know what you have.
Thanks.

- -Drew in Windy Western Kansas-

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 08:50:11 -0700
From: "Andrew Conkey" <andrewc@novell.uidaho.edu>
Subject: th200c v.s. th200-4r PROM differences? 

See below...

I wrote:

> If the vin 'Y' and '9' PROMS differ in engine management - what 
> about the different transmissions available in these cars? Is there a 
> different PROM to control lock-up on the th200c vs the th200-4r? 
> ---------------------------
> 

Dave Cullen wrote:

> ummm....No.
> 
> (My turn to make a vague assumption... :-)
> 
> drc
> 

Hot Rod Harry wrote:

>Yes
>there is a difference.....my simple answer.... 
> 
> 
> 

...Not exactly the response I was looking for! ;-)

Can anyone be more specific?

I know the computer on my car *does* control lockup on the 
current th200-c - depending on engine temp and vehicle speed. I 
have heard that the th200-4rs have an 'extra' wire connection. I 
believe the computer keeps track of 3rd and 4th gear and lockup on 
the O.D. v.s. just lockup on the 3 speed. I also know that the OD 
can be 'rigged' to lockup with a toggle switch in the dash. I was 
hoping that my existing computer would have the extra 
connector(s), if needed but be 'not used' - especially since this car 
*was* available with the O.D. tranny. Its still 'lock-up' whether in 3rd 
or 4th gear, so I would think the difference would be minimal. But, 
when you consider different rearend ratios and tire sizes that were 
available on the G-bodies vs the B-bodies, it makes sense that 
there would be different PROMs to account for these differences. I 
think people on the list have put the OD tranny in older cars w/out 
the computer? 

TIA

...Andrew

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 09:16:12 -0700
From: "Andrew Conkey" <andrewc@novell.uidaho.edu>
Subject: O.D. vs 3 speed PROMS - '84 Delta

Mike,

Doh, I just posted again to the list, but re-read your info below 
after... (I am posting this to the list - in case anyone is interested).

You say exactly what I was hoping - that there are (hopefully) 
*unused* connectors on my existing computer. I would think so for 
reasons of economy when olds built the thing that they would just 
use a 'generic' computer and hookup the different trannys as 
required. The extra sensor in the OD tranny would explain the extra 
connection I have heard about on the OD trans. The 3 speed only 
has one - and it's a 'dumb' connection that the computer controls 
lockup with. (The 3-speed *does* have lock-up) The trans doesn't 
'care', nor give feedback to the computer, which is what 
(apparently) the OD trans *does* do.

Thanks for the reply, yours is the first real explaination I have to 
date on the different hookups between the 3 speed and the OD 
trans, and I have been researching this thing for almost a year! I 
thought my th200-c was toast last summer. Took it to the shop 
and they said - 'yep - toast'.... That was 6 mos ago and its been 
fine since after changing only the fluid - my guess is some junk 
was getting stuck in the governer. I figure I will drive it until it really 
is dead, at which time I will swap out the rearend as well.

And yes, mine came with the flippin' AIR pump. That about drives 
me insane. It really dampens the quiet-cruiser-boat effect when that 
thing kicks in: 'ppppzzzzzzzzzzZZZZZZZZZ'.  I'd disconnect it in a 
minute if I knew it wouldn't screw up anything else. I can't believe 
they couldn't make it quieter, unless mine's defective. It sounds 
like they all do that though...

Well, thanks again for the info, and feel free to forward any other 
useful info you may have...

...Andrew

Date sent:      	Sat, 17 Apr 1999 10:26:10 -0400
From:           	Miguel Morales <Mike.Morales@wcom.com>
Organization:   	MCIWorldcom
To:             	Andrew Conkey <andrewc@novell.uidaho.edu>
Subject:        	Re: vin 9 PROM chip

> The chip basically only works with the tranny, by locking up the converter, 
which you
> obviously don;t have. The lock-up circuit is pretty basic on these models 
too. The
> pressure sender switch inside the tranny senses the 4th clutch engaging and 
signals
> to the computer to ground the other pin attached to the Tranny solenoid. 
These are
> two pins that are probably unsused on your computer. They may have wires or 
they may
> not but they are not going anywhere. Also controlled by the PROM are the EGR
> solenoid, Purge Solenoid and Mixture Control--(M-C) solenoid, and 
AIR-system. Did
> your car come with a AIR pump too?
> 
> Thanks for the interest,
> Mike
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 11:54:08 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Primer...

The primer I am familiar with does not have a "Time limit" to when the
color could be shot. I seen a car sit inprimer for a couple of months to
get it straight and then the color gets shot. never had any problems. Just
as long as the primer was cleaned with a good cleaner to remove
grease/dirt.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> 
> Nope. Primer is typically wet sanded with 400 grit. Some painters dry
sand
> 320. In either case, smooth as a baby's butt. Adhesion problems occur for
a
> number of reasons... e.g. incompatible primer / top coat, waiting too
long
> before shooting color, inadequate cleaning after sanding primer.
> 
> Red paint usually goes over laquer based red oxide sandable primer. Works
> for laquers and most enamels. Polyester and urethane paints want
multi-part
> hi-tech primers. ASK YOUR PAINT SUPPLIER what primer is recommended for
the
> top coat you choose.
> 
> drc
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 13:59:38 EDT
From: GaryDW30@aol.com
Subject: Re: junkyards dot com

try www.partslocator.com/locator.htm

Gary
69 W30 4-speed

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 13:16:38 -0500 (CDT)
From: drolds350@webtv.net (Jim McKeague)
Subject: Re: Console Lock Retainer

Steven,
My address is 
Jim McKeague
1119 Piccadilly Circle
Naperville, Illinois  60563
I am looking for the bracket that the slidig arm hooks up to. Not the
one on the floor. Do you have one?
Thanks!

Jim McKeague
'70 Rallye 350
'70 Cutlass S W-31
http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html
Temporary E-Mail address: drolds350@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 13:18:10 -0500 (CDT)
From: blue442@webtv.net (Jeff Carter)
Subject: MSD schematic

Hi listers,
I'm trying to install my MSD adjustable timing advance, pn 8680.  I've
also lost the instructions.  Can anyone tell me where the yellow or
white wires go?  I remember all the others.  This is with a magnetic
trigger distributor and 6AL box.

TIA!
Jeff Carter
blue442@webtv.net 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 14:50:32 -0400
From: Nikolaj Richers <nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca>
Subject: Thanks! Re: fast idle ... gone?

Thank you to all that responded to my post regarding the mysterious
disappearance of my fast idle following an engine wash. That was a
little while ago, I know, but thank you all the same.

I think the problem must have been that _before_ the wash there was crud
in the passenger side linkage keeping the idle up, because when I went
to adjust the fast idle screw today, it had no load on it. A few turns
and the fast idle crawled back up to where it should be. I'm pretty sure
it's now solved. I hope nothing else is being held together by crud. ;-)

- -- 
Nikolaj Richers, Toronto, Canada; nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 15:40:32 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Did you see that 67 "442" !!!

A Lowes commercial during the Nascar race today....parked with the backend 
towards the camera was a RED 	hot  67 "442"
That was too cool!    Hot Rod Harry.... 
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/">HOT ROD HARRY'S OLDSMOBILES</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 14:48:06 -0500 (CDT)
From: blue442@webtv.net (Jeff Carter)
Subject: [none]

subscribe oldsmobile blue442@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 13:16:44 -0700
From: BC <beastmaster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Still Looking for a Nice Driver

Howdy fellows "Olds"ites,
I hope ya all get this email. I haven't seen too many of my posts make it.
There is a couple of real nice sites for finding cars other than recycler.com 
and
traderonline.com.
The site I like the best is Net-a-car at http://www.net-a-car.com/ .This site 
is
very well laid out and easy to find exactly what your looking for.
Another site that deals with classics is Classics for sale at
http://www.classics4sale.com/ , this is also a nice site but I they have less 
to
offer in listings but they do have some nice stuff.
By the way, if any of you in your travels comes accross a set of 
"good-condition"
door panels for a 70 Delta 88 2-door HT or Conv. I am in dire need. Also I am
looking for dash pad for my 75 Delta 88 Royale in "good-condition".
Thanks and Good hunting,
Bruce Camilli
70 Delta 88 Conv., 350
75 Delta 88 Royale Conv. 455

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 16:27:02 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Primer...

In a message dated 4/18/99 11:51:21 AM Central Daylight Time, 
PETTRIX@prodigy.net writes:

<< The primer I am familiar with does not have a "Time limit" to when the
 color could be shot. I seen a car sit inprimer for a couple of months to
 get it straight and then the color gets shot. never had any problems. Just
 as long as the primer was cleaned with a good cleaner to remove
 grease/d >>
  This is a good point...I have a shop near here  called Master Craft. They 
specialize in Lamborginis, old Ferraris, and other exotic price-is-no-object 
cars. They will lay a coat of primer , then put the primered car in storage 
for a year to 14 months to let the primer cure/shrink. Then it's time for 
second coat...so on and so on. I get a kick out of looking at their "jobber" 
board, some cars are there for up to 4 years! Then, I come and lay a fifteen 
minute tape stripe on them...hahaha

Collyn 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 16:30:23 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Did you see that 67 "442" !!!

In a message dated 4/18/99 2:42:21 PM Central Daylight Time, 
Four42much@aol.com writes:

<< A Lowes commercial during the Nascar race today....parked with the backend 
 towards the camera was a RED 	hot  67 "442"
 That was too cool! >>
 That same car is in May Hot Rod

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 15:34:22 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Problems

>My 70 olds cutlass s(new 455! Highrise Man. cam ,10:1 balanced, headers,
3:73
>rear.) After driving for a while, It starts to heat up the inside of the
>car(Heater is off) The engine just bakes my feet. It is tolerable but has
any
>one ever had to remedy this problem?


I had the same problem with my 72 Cutlass which also had headers.
My solution was to fabricate a set of heat deflectors out of sheet
aluminum (.050") and space them as far as I could off the floor
without touching the header.  This way, the aluminum absorbed
the heat and transferred it to the passing air instead of the floor
absorbing it and transferring it to the inside of the car.  That,
and a little heat insulation under the carpet did wonders for my
feet.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 15:37:17 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: R-12 to R-134 conversion

>Mike;
>R-22 is for a/cond on the house, doesn't work well in a auto.
>Lou
>


But why?  Has anyone tried it?  The reason I ask is I have a 
friend who swears up and down that it will work almost as
good as R12 and better than R134a.  Plus it's the same 
cost as R134a.  I'm seriously considering trying it when I 
get the A/C in the 68.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 17:07:37 -0400
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Did you see that 67 "442" !!!

damn it!  The guys on MRN didn't mention the cool commercial I was missing.
bastards!



Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 3.8 Calais
Bucks County, PA
mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo


- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Four42much@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, April 18, 1999 3:41 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Did you see that 67 "442" !!!


A Lowes commercial during the Nascar race today....parked with the backend
towards the camera was a RED 	hot  67 "442"
That was too cool!    Hot Rod Harry....
<A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/">HOT ROD HARRY'S OLDSMOBILES</A>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 16:18:59 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Yellow paint on a 442?

>> The answer about the yellow shades in 1972 was absolutely right.
>
>Scott, I'm not trying to get you worked up, but - no, it's not.  I've
>got the '72 color and trim book in front of me and there is only one
>yellow in there, code 56, Sunfire Yellow.


What about Bamboo?  Does that classify as a yellow?  My 72 S
came from the factory with that color and still had the original
paint on it when I got it.  It's a very muted yellow but I liked it cause
it was very easy on the eyes and kind of fit into the "sleeper" 
image I tried to get for the car.  Less attention = less tickets!
If I remember right it was a special order color (I think Toronado)
and you don't see very many A bodies that color.  There's pics of
the 72 on my page.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 14:31:46 -0700
From: "Mountney, Scott" <scott.mountney@attws.com>
Subject: Yellow Paint

Paul (Hartlieb), no dont worry about getting me worked up, I was totally
wrong and have no problem admitting it!!!
I had forgot the true color names, but was repeating the names I read on the
other email.    It took a while to sink in.   I talked to my shop before I
got the replies to make sure.

My car is the same as the one in this picture here.     This car is
beautiful, but I prefer a black top or black vinyl.
http://www.442.com/nabung.html
My car is paint code 56, I checked.     However, I still think people could
get two yellows in 72.   I have seen many coupes in the rally 350 color.
I haven't checked their paint code but people tell me it is the original
color, which always made me wonder.  

By the way,could this be a result of poor GM records or the ability to order
a color?     For example, I have seen late 71 models with headlight bezels
that are painted black. (instead of all polished)    In addition, same goes
with the hoods.    71 hoods have vents, 72s do not.     I have seen late 71s
that have both types of hoods.     There are a few other odd things but I
cant remember now.   Once again people tell me that "its original"

Scott

Scott Mountney
Senior RF Engineer
AT&T Wireless Services
International Development and Operations
7277 164TH AVE NE
Redmond WA   98052
Desk (425) 580-6364
Cell   (206) 409-3234
Fax  (425) 580-6363

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 17:16:28 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Primer...

Peter;
That's the key, probably something left on the surface of the primer
preventing it from adhering to the finish coats. Car wash wax, tree sap,
didn't follow this thread enough to discern the cause, but it's not a time
factor, or too smooth or too rough a finish on the primer. HAS TO BE
IMPROPER cleaning of the primer before top coats went on.
Lou

- ----------
> From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Primer...
> Date: Sunday, April 18, 1999 11:54 AM
> 
> The primer I am familiar with does not have a "Time limit" to when the
> color could be shot. I seen a car sit inprimer for a couple of months to
> get it straight and then the color gets shot. never had any problems.
Just
> as long as the primer was cleaned with a good cleaner to remove
> grease/dirt.
> Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 18:18:37 -0400
From: "Mike McLeod" <mikemcleod@msn.com>
Subject: mew member

Hi, wanted to introduce myself, just joined the list after purchasing my
car. Have enjoyed reading the mail.

Mike McLeod
1970 442 W-30
1997 Aurora

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 18:36:32 -0400
From: Nikolaj Richers <nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca>
Subject: Next carb problem--no secondaries?

I am sorry to bother you all again with my carb. Can you still bear with
me? I'm trying to determine why my secondaries don't seem to open, even
though I revved the fully warmed-up Olds to just under five grand on
WOT. It's an '85 Olds 88 with the Canadian-spec 307 4bbl engine in it,
Q-Jet with no CCC and no A.I.R. 

My first question would be: the secondaries should open at that engine
speed even during relatively short WOT bursts, correct? I revved the car
to just under five grand a couple of times and watched the secondaries.
They don't budge at all. I very vaguely remember that Q-Jet secondaries
start opening at 40% throttle or more, so I think I should have seen
_some_ movement.

Checked the air valve for binding, moves just fine. The vacuum signal to
the front passenger-side choke pull-off diaphragm is there--the
diagphragm retracts on start-up, holding the AV shut. Pulled off the
vacuum line, watched the diaphragm release, and revved it (not to five
grand, but probably around 3500-4000 RPM). No AV movement.

What else? On Karl's Q-Jet site there was a link to a tuning site, which
recommends removing the secondary lock-out tang near the fast idle cam.
Is that a good idea? I figure the lock-out is for warm-up and strikes me
as a good idea, but then who in their sane mind would race a cold car?

Thanks! I'll be poking around some more a little later today. Maybe I'll
find whatever is keeping this Olds from breathing a little more freely.

	Nikolaj


- -- 
Nikolaj Richers, Toronto, Canada; nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 17:33:51 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: R-12 to R-134 conversion

Mike;
Used to teach auto a/cond, we didn't touch R-22. This is not gospel but I
believe 22 requires more high side pressures than 12. I know absolutely
nothing about heat transfer values/ or expansion values of one Vs the
other. A really good a/c engineer should know. Or it may the be inverse of
what I am saying. Didn't study 22, really don't except it can lock up the
compressor, or so they have told me. Wish I knew more.
Lou

- ----------
> From: Mike Bloomer <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: R-12 to R-134 conversion
> Date: Sunday, April 18, 1999 3:37 PM
> But why?  Has anyone tried it?  The reason I ask is I have a 
> friend who swears up and down that it will work almost as
> good as R12 and better than R134a.  Plus it's the same 
> cost as R134a.  I'm seriously considering trying it when I 
> get the A/C in the 68.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 18:45:10 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?

In a message dated 4/18/99 3:33:50 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca writes:

<< I am sorry to bother you all again with my carb. Can you still bear with
 me? I'm trying to determine why my secondaries don't seem to open, even
 though I revved the fully warmed-up Olds to just under five grand on
 WOT. It's an '85 Olds 88 with the Canadian-spec 307 4bbl engine in it,
 Q-Jet with no CCC and no A.I.R. 
 
 My first question would be: the secondaries should open at that engine
 speed even during relatively short WOT bursts, correct? I revved the car
 to just under five grand a couple of times and watched the secondaries.
 They don't budge at all. I very vaguely remember that Q-Jet secondaries
 start opening at 40% throttle or more, so I think I should have seen
 _some_ movement. >>

	Are you trying this at idle, or while the car is moving? I don't see 
how you could see the butterflies open (or not in your case) while moving, 
unless the hood was off, and no air cleaner. The air valves won't open 
without a load on the engine. (IE driving it down the road) If the air valve 
isn't sticky, the secondary lockout tab releases when the motor warms up, and 
vacuum is hooked up correctly, it is likely working fine. 36-40% is what Roes 
book says are the secondary THROTTLE PLATES (lower set of "butterflies" on 
the secondary side) opening times. Under load that percentage would coincide 
with the air valve opening, but not just 
sitting.				
			Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 17:46:13 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Next carb problem--no secondaries?

Nik'
Only under a load on the engine, not revving it sitting still while you
watch. You would need a see though hood to see it working, but you can tell
by the kick in the butt while driving it, plus it sounds different, should
get a little howl from the engine sucking in the air.
Lou 

- ----------
> From: Nikolaj Richers <nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca>
> To: Oldsmobile List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Next carb problem--no secondaries?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 18 Apr 1999 17:36:44 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: mew member

Hi, 
Welcome, you will get some good input on this list or some (like my last
one) which will do you no good at all. Darn good list though.
Lou (Master) Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
oca#31353

- ----------
> From: Mike McLeod <mikemcleod@msn.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: mew member
> Date: Sunday, April 18, 1999 5:18 PM
> 
> Hi, wanted to introduce myself, just joined the list after purchasing my
> car. Have enjoyed reading the mail.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1911
*********************************

