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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1944


oldsmobile-digest        Thursday, May 6 1999        Volume 01 : Number 1944



Re: 70 DELTA88 QUESTIONS
Re: Vibrations- The Final Chapter?
1978 Cutlass Interior Question
Re: Convertible Top position
looking for a sending unit for a 65 442 hardtop
Re: Painting Danbury Mint 1970 442 W-30 Convertible
My 83 Hurst Olds Webpage 
radiators
My Cutlass is on Ebay
Re: radiators
Re: My Cutlass is on Ebay
69 H/O in July'99 MCR...it's SLOW!
FS:  '57-'67 Olds Parts
Re: radiators
Re: REQ: 1953 Olds Info
FS: 68-75+ Olds Parts
Re: 1965 hood pads
Re: 69 H/O in July'99 MCR...it's SLOW!
Re: Bucket seats
VIbrations again.  Kinda Solved.
Re: 1965 hood pads
Re: VIbrations again.  Kinda Solved.
Re: How much for a tach?
Re: Need to rebuild a 69/70 455
Re: Fender/Doors
Re: Backspacing
Re: 1965 hood pads
Re: Fender/Doors
Re: 69 H/O in July'99 MCR...it's SLOW!
Re: 1978 Cutlass Interior Question
Re: Parking lights, long
Light Bulb Wattages
Re: How much for a tach?
Re: Fender/Doors
Re: 69 H/O in July'99 MCR...it's SLOW!
Re: 69 H/O in July'99 MCR...it's SLOW!
Re: Backspacing
Re: 69 H/O in July'99 MCR...it's SLOW!
Re: 69 H/O in July'99 MCR...it's SLOW!
Re: ICQ
Re: UNBOUNCE: 2 Questions
Alloy rims

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 20:39:12 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: 70 DELTA88 QUESTIONS

EDMUND WILLIAMS wrote:
> 
> I want to know if a radiator shroud for a 70 Delta88 with a 455 motor
> with AC will work on a 455 motor
> without AC. I am thinking of buying a shroud off of an AC car to put on
> my non AC car. Anyone who might know if this will work please E-Mail
> me. 

There are probably 4 bolts that hold the shroud on.  Two are on the top
through the radiator top plate.  You should have no problem here.  The
other two are probably welded to the core support, below the radiator,
of the A/C car.  Your non A/C car probably won't have these.  This is
the case with my '72 Cutlass.  Once you have the support installed,
you'll have to install a longer shaft A/C water pump.  The non A/C water
pump will be too short and won't let the fan spin inside the shrould. 
It will be behind the shroud and the cooling effect won't be reached.

> Also will '70 98 front fenders work on a '70 88?

Yes.

> And finally, I
> want to make my single exhaust into duals on my 88 can I use the
> original single exhaust manifols to do this? Anyone please help me.

You can probably leave the passenger side manifold on, but the driver's
side one will need to be changed.  You'll need a dual exhaust manifold
from a '65-'67 Starfire 425 or other 425 with duals, or a '68 - '70 455
with duals.  I remember something about full size cars no being factory
equipped with dual in '70.  Something about clearance with the steering
box or something.  You may have trouble with this.. I think you'll need
a special transmission linkage also (to clear the pipe) or you can
modify the one you have.

Paul
> Thanks Ed
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 20:47:53 -0400
From: Miguel Morales <Mike.Morales@wcom.com>
Subject: Re: Vibrations- The Final Chapter?

Kevin,

Have you checked your u-joints on the drive shaft?

Mike Morales

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 19:50:51 -0500
From: Matthew Bremmer <bremmer@sgi.com>
Subject: 1978 Cutlass Interior Question

Ok list,

I would like to change out my interior on my '78 Cutlass.  How do I know what 
years
will fit my vehicle besides the same year and model?  Or do I have to have the 
same
year, model, etc....

Thanks for your response,

Matt

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 21:02:54 -0400
From: Scott Parker <sparker442@banet.net>
Subject: Re: Convertible Top position

Glenn,
I'd be concerned that the top won't get the chance to stretch into a
comfortable position with no tension on it all summer.  Then again, I guess
if you're going to do this, a new top would be best for it.  I know that
with mine down just for s few hours, it takes a long time to stretch the
creases out of it near the rear quarter....  'Just 2 cents worth of
speculation.
Scott
71 442 Conv.

Glenn J. Martin wrote:

> I have a newly restored 1972 Cutlass convertible with a new top and
> hardware.  I am wondering if there is any problems with leaving the top
> down with the boot on it for the summer? I have a car cover for the car
> so dirt inside is not a concern. I see benifits of not puting it up and
> down each time I use it but I am concerned that I may do some harm to
> the new top if its left down for extended periods of time. I would like
> to here from anyone who can offer some opinions.
>
> Thanks
>
> Glenn

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 21:04:45 -0400
From: "Michael T. Norton" <larrytate@email.msn.com>
Subject: looking for a sending unit for a 65 442 hardtop

Help. I just picked up a 65 442 hard top. All number match. The body is in
fair to good shape, the interior is good.  The motor is strong.  The car is
a beast.  I crushed my brothers 69 Goat. I have one maddening problem:
    The orignal gas tank has been replaced with a newer model.  I can get
the right tank and filler tube but have had no luck finding a sending unit.
If you know where I can find one please let me know.  Email address is
LarryTate@MSN.com

    The tank that is in the car is a tad too big.  Is there a cross
reference to another GM car that used the same size tank and sending unit?
Thanks for the help.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 21:30:27 EDT
From: DKlauber@aol.com
Subject: Re: Painting Danbury Mint 1970 442 W-30 Convertible

Has anyone ever painted a Danbury Mint model?  Advice appreciated.  Would 
like to paint Aegean Aqua to match my car.  Thanks David
70 442 W-30 conv.

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 21:33:11 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: My 83 Hurst Olds Webpage 

Its up and running with tons of info.....
 <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/">HOT ROD HARRY'S OLDSMOBILES</A>  
or 
http://members.aol.com/magsurv/index.html

The 73-77 info is still on there too...I am using 10 screen names with 2MB of 
space on each from AOL...webpage is almost as big as 442.com

Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 21:50:40 -0400
From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
Subject: radiators

Ok, 

My 67 Cutlass, 330 V8, no A/C needs a new radiatior...Since I don't know
thing one about radiators, other than that's the place you pour the anti
freeze, and oh yes, don't touch the cap when it's hot,   I need some
info/advice before my next move here.  What's the difference between 3
and 4 chamber radiators?  Do I need to have any specific one?  Who sells
them?  What should I expect to pay?  Any advice would be much
appreciated.  Engine's just about ready to go back in the car, I don't
want to delay any more if possible.

TIA

Art

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 21:45:10 -0400
From: Gene Gatti <jerseydevil@mindspring.com>
Subject: My Cutlass is on Ebay

Hi Guys,
   I posted my '93 Olds Cutlass on ebay and thought you might like to see
it. I doubt any of you would want a front wheel driver though :-)  Anyway it
is an Oldsmobile and I got a little creative with the sales pitch. Check it
out at:

 http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=99105984 

Thanks,
Gene

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 21:49:13 -0400
From: "M. Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: radiators

> Ok,
>
> My 67 Cutlass, 330 V8, no A/C needs a new radiatior...Since I don't know
> thing one about radiators, other than that's the place you pour the anti
> freeze, and oh yes, don't touch the cap when it's hot,   I need some
> info/advice before my next move here.  What's the difference between 3
> and 4 chamber radiators?  Do I need to have any specific one?  Who sells
> them?  What should I expect to pay?  Any advice would be much
> appreciated.  Engine's just about ready to go back in the car, I don't
> want to delay any more if possible.

You can probably get a Modine or other reputable Aftermarket rad at your
local parts store for $130 to $150. A two row or three row is probably
standard in your car. I would opt for the three row. I upgraded mine, (along
with a hi flow waterpump), and don't regret it. The car definitely runs
cooler.
If your not inclined to install your own, then any good rad shop will also
probably have the one you need. Worst case, a wait of a few days until they
can get one in.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie, Melbourne, FL
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/~mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 21:02:40 -0500 
From: Doug Newman <newmand@WCBI.com>
Subject: Re: My Cutlass is on Ebay

Gene Gatti wrote:

	
	   I posted my '93 Olds Cutlass on ebay and thought you might
like to see it. <snip>


	Gene, that car is a beauty!  I wish I had the room for it.   It
would be a very nice daily driver, and I could turn my truck into a show
winning "garage queen" to go along with my OTHER Olds.  :-) 


	Good luck,


Doug Newman         OCA # 30311
Columbus, MS         1987 442

http://www.442.com/newman.html               1987 442
http://www.442.com/newmantape.html        Centennial Tape Info.  

	

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 22:01:00 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: 69 H/O in July'99 MCR...it's SLOW!

   I am totaly depressed! I have just read an article on a near mint 
condition 69 H/0. The car has 29,729 original miles...455w/ "OW"Th -400 , 
3.23:1 gears, posi. etc, etc... IT will not even spin the tires!!!! that is 
according to the owner and the magazine staff! The owner has produced a best 
time of 9.46@75mph in the 8th and converted to 1/4mile that is 14.7@98. 
SHHHEEEESHHHHH!!!!!! How embarressing!. My bone stock ford pickup will run 
side by side with it! It is a Ford Lightning, but it is still a truck!. My 
65's will KILL it! On a positive note...it looked VERY nice!

Collyn

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 22:05:10 -0400
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: FS:  '57-'67 Olds Parts

                                  C&M Classic Parts
                      1132 Chatmoss Drive, Virginia Beach, VA 23464
                            (757)474-0869, FAX (757)474-0694
                                <chermac@exis.net>
                                        OCA# 24275

        Hours:  Mon.-Fri.  4:00 PM - 10:00 PM,  Sat. 9:00 AM - 3:00 PM,  
        CLOSED Sunday
        *We accept all major Credit Cards: VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and 
        Discover.*

                             OLDSMOBILE Restoration Parts

New arrival "Parts"
64-67 Tan Seat Belts (nice set) $100.00
66 LH Inner Fenderwell (nice) $65.00
67 LH Inner Fenderwell (nice, minor pits) $75.00
66-67 RH Inner Fenderwell (very nice) $75.00
67 442 W-30 Duct Set (Inner & Outers, new repro) $500.00 set
66-67 442 W-30 Ram Air Hoses (perfect repro) $80.00 pr
66-67 442 Trunk Lid (mint, w/pwr trunk) $135.00
67 Steering Column (column shift, blue, mint) $65.00
65 442/Cutlass Front Hood Molding (very nice) $100.00
65 442/Cutlass Front Hood Molding (good, chrome slightly weak) $35.00
65 (NOS) 442/Cutlass LH Tail Light Housing $100.00
67-70 (NOS) Master Cylinder cover $18.00
64-66 Inside Rear View Mirror (MINT) $25.00
57-58 371 J-2 Intake (looks NOS)  $175.00
64-66 Floor Shift Column (black, mint) $150.00
64-66 F-85 Steering Wheel (Gold, very nice)  $75.00
64-69 Vacuum Gauge (console mount, mint)  $90.00
64-66 Console Tach (nice)  $75.00
66-67 Cutlass/F-85 4 door Sedan Front Doors (mint)  $100.00 pr
66-67 Cowl Panels (mint)  $35.00 ea
66 442 4 spd Chassis (very good cond)  $250.00
64-72 Boxed Lower Control Arms (originals)  $100.00 pr
     
New Repro Parts:
57 (Repro) 88/98 Taillight Lens (2)  $20.00 pr
66 442 L-69 Tri-Carb Air Cleaners (Small ones, repro, w/filters)  $119.00 set
64-67 Battery Tray (Repro)  $30.00
66 442 Tri-Carb Linkage Kit (complete, correct) $80.00
66 Tri-Carb carb tags (3, correct repros) $25.00 set
67 442 Grille Bar (repro)  $92.00
66-67 442/Cutlass Drip Rail Moldings (NEW, repro) $65.00 set
67-70 Turn Signal Levers (repro)  $27.00 ea
67-70 Tilt Levers (repro)  $27.00 ea 

New Old Stock (NOS) Parts 1964-1972 Olds/Cutlass/442
53 (NOS) 88/98 Hood Emblem (in box)  $100.00
53 (NOS Take off) Tail Light Assm.  $30.00 
57 (NOS) 88/98 Taillight Lens (1 only)  $20.00
58 (NOS) Dog Dish Hubcaps  (5)  $250.00 set
59-62 Temp Sending Unit (NOS) $18.00
60 (NOS) RH Tail Light Assm (complete)  $85.00
65-70 88/98 Idler Arm (NOS) $35.00
64-72 Clutch Inspection covers (NOS)  $22.00 ea
65 (NOS) F-85 Deluxe Dash Emblem  $38.00
65 (NOS) LH Front Turn Signal Assm $65.00
65 (NOS) 442/Cutlass LH Fender, & very nice RH Fender $650.00 pr
66 (NOS) LH/RH Cutlass Tail Light Lens  $45.00 ea, $90.00 pr
67 (NOS) LH/RH Delmont/Delta 88 Tail Light Lens  $45.00 ea, $90.00 pr 
67 (NOS) RH Delta 88 Upper Tail Light Lens  $55.00 ea
67-75 TH400 Shifter Cable Bracket (NOS)  $24.00
68-75+ TH350 Shifter Cable Bracket (NOS)  $24.00
68-72+ TH Torque Converter Cover (Plastic, NOS)  $36.00 ea
66-72 SSI Center Caps (NOS) $36.50 ea

Used Parts:
64 Cutlass/442                       
64 (NOS) 442/Cutlass LH Front Turn Lens $40.00
64-65 Radiator Top Plate  $35.00
64-66 Auto Console (black, w/wiring, nice)  $125.00
64 F-85/Cutlass Grille (good cond) $45.00
64-65 330/400 Valve Covers (nice)  $25.00 pr
64-65 Cutlass/442 Conv Rear Side Glass (mint)  $80.00 pr
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  $50.00
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
64 Front Bumper Core  $50.00                                                   
64 F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00 

65 Cutlass/442
64-65 Radiator Top Plate  $35.00
65 442 Air Cleaner (nice, complete) $125.00
65 Full Size Air Cleaner Top (Super Rocket)  $30.00
64-66 Auto Console (black, w/wiring, nice)  $125.00
65 400 442 4-Jet Carb (rebuilt)  $100.00
65 442 Grille (nice used)  $100.00
65 Cutlass Grille (good used)  $55.00
64-65 330/400 Valve Covers (nice)  $35.00 pr
64-65 Cutlass/442 Conv Rear Side Glass (mint)  $80.00 pr
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  $50.00
65 Cutlass 4 Door Rear Wheelwell Die cast pieces (front)  $20.00 pr
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings  LH/RH rear $15.00 ea

66 Cutlass/442
66 442 RH Tail Light Bezel (nice, used)  $100.00
66 Rally Pac (in dash like 67 with correct unique dash & engine harn & gauge
lens) $600.00
64-66 Inside Rearview Mirror (Mint)  $35.00
66 F-85 Post Coupe Door Panels & Seats (good, tannish gold)  Inquire
64-66 Auto Console (black, w/wiring, nice)  $125.00
66 Rear Bumper Core  $55.00
66 442 W-30 Inner/Outer Bumper Ducts (new doesn't include hoses)  $550.00 set
66 442 W-30 Inner Ducts  $375.00 pr  
66 442 LH Tail Light assm (fair to good) $100.00 
66 442 RH Tail Light Assm (fair to good) $100.00
66 Cutlass Post Coupe Rear Side Panels (black, rare w/woodgrain, nice)  $50.00
pr
66-67 Post Coupe Doors (mint)  $140.00 pr, $75.00 ea
66 442/Cutlass Radiator Support (nice, blasted no rust)  $125.00
66-67 SSI Wheels (good not perfect, 5)  $125.00 set
66-67 442 Air Cleaner (2)  $90.00 ea
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  $50.00
66 F-85 Trunk Lid Emblem $10.00
66 F-85 Trunk Lid Molding  $20.00
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
66 Cutlass Trunk Molding (very good)  $45.00
66 Cutlass Tail Light Bezels (decent)  $45.00 pr
66 F-85/Cutlass grille (nice)   $55.00
66 F-85/Cutlass grille (good)  $35.00 
66-67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66-67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
66 Cutlass/442 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
66-67Post Coupe Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00
pr                                  

67 Cutlass/442
67 442 W-30 "C" Heads (VG code, drilled and plugged)  $375.00 pr
67 442 Dash Emblem (mint)  $55.00
67 442/Cutlass Front license plate bracket (mint) $35.00
67 442/Cutlass AM/FM Radio (mint)  $275.00
67 C/S Hardtop door panels $50.00 pr
67 Front Bumper Filler Panel (mint)  $40.00
67 Cutlass Hood (nice)  $65.00
67 442/Cutlass Supreme Rear Qtr Moldings (no pits, decent chrome) $90.00 pr
67 442/Cutlass Supreme Rear Bumper (nice)  $115.00
67 442/Cutlass Radiator Support (nice)  $130.00
66-67 442 Air Cleaner (2)  $85.00 ea
67 Deluxe Full Wheel Covers $35.00 set
67 Cutlass Dash Emblem (good)  $10.00
67 Cutlass Supreme Dash Emblems (2 very nice)  $20.00 ea
67 Cutlass 4 door, Door Panels (blue, mint)  $65.00 for all 4
67 442/Cutlass Trunk Panel (good chrome, NO pits)  $65.00
67 F-85 Steering Wheel Center (good chrome) $15.00
67 Cutlass Supreme/442 Steering Wheel Centers (mint)  $35.00 
67 Fender End Caps  $30.00 pr
67 Cutlass Fender Emblems (nice)  $10.00 ea
67 Plain Cutlass Fender Rockets (nice)  $5.50 ea
66/67 Repro Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66/67 Repro Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
67 Cutlass Headlight Bezels (nice)  $50.00 pr
67 442 Trunk Lids (clean)  $90.00 ea
67 RH Fender (small metal patch panel, straight)  $100.00

Big Car Parts:
66 Toro Batman Steering Wheel, Tilt/Tele column (black, very nice)  $145.00

New reproduction parts:
Correct Gas Tanks 64-72 20 gallon with filler neck and lock ring/gasket  *Reg.
Price $199.00
(* Price until 1 June $189.00)

Convertible Top Boots (Correct Grains for each different year)  $104.00 ea
64  Black, Red, Lt. Blue, Fawn, Saddle, Turquoise, White
65  Same as 64  
66-67 Black, Red, Light Blue, Med. Blue, Bronze, Turquoise, White, Gold
68-72 Black, Red, Parchment, Lt. Blue, Teal Blue, Green Gold, Gold, Pearl,
Dk Blue, Dk. Green, Lt. Green, Lt. Saddle, Dk Saddle, Olive Green, Royal
Blue, White, Sandalwood, 

Molded Carpet Sets  $109.00 ea
64-67 - (Black, Red, Med. Blue, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Maroon)
68-72 - (Black, Red, Maroon, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Med. Blue, Dk. Green,
Green Gold, Lt. Green, Teal Blue, Saddle, Sandalwood)
73-77 - (Same as 68-72 except Green Gold)

Door Panels  64-72  $275.00 for a set of all 4

Seat Covers  64-72  $355.00 front and rear sets any year or color.

Lifetime Guarantee on all correct bead window felts  $92.00 set (inner & outer)
66-67 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (correct bead type) 
68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (not Supreme Coupes, correct bead) 
68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv (Outers only, correct bead)  $50.00

Glove Box Liners
64-67 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $18.99
68-69 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $18.99
70-72 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $18.99

Qrt Seals
70-72 Cutlass Supreme & Conv Qtr End seals  $13.00 pr

Hood Insulation
64-65 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $24.00
66 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $24.00
67 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $24.00
68-70 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner (w/clips)  $24.00
70-72 Cutlass Supreme Hood Liner (w/clips)  $24.00
73-77 Cutlass $30.00

Liner Clips
Round Clips  $.75 ea
Square Clips  $.75 ea

A-Arm Shields
64-72 Upper A-Arm dust shields (w/o clips) $18.99 pr

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 22:03:24 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: radiators

In a message dated 5/5/99 8:55:00 PM Central Daylight Time, 
mgillespie@sprynet.com writes:

<< 
 You can probably get a Modine or other reputable Aftermarket rad at your
 local parts store for $130 to $150. A two row or three row is probably
 standard in your car. I would opt for the three row. I upgraded mine, (along
 with a hi flow waterpump), and don't regret it. The car definitely runs
 cooler.
 If your not inclined to install your own, then any good rad shop will also
 probably have the one you need. Worst case, a wait of a few days until they
 can get one in.
 ========== >>
  I agree. Autozone can get the original radiator...I bought one from them 
and it took one day to get it and cost was 130.00. It is a Harrison.

Collyn

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 22:25:51 EDT
From: Mr57olds@aol.com
Subject: Re: REQ: 1953 Olds Info

In a message dated 99-05-05 01:06:12 EDT, you write:

<< I will add a little to you quest. I would tend to think that you should 
use 
 the 57 flywheel. You would need to check if the 53 flex plate will match up 
 with the flywheel. By sticking with the 57 flywheel, starter mounting and 
 alignment is kept the same, and the balance of the engine should be close to 
 stock. 
 
 The only headers I know of have been custom made. I have a header flange kit 
 for the 57 371. You could have some made while you have the heads available. 
 But I would prepare for a hefty bill for a lot of labor.
  >>
I don't know everything about this, however I have had a transmission off 
both a '54 and '57.  The '54 which I think is same as '53 has a two piece 
torque converter with several bolts, like 24,  with a gasket between.  You 
must unbolt the two halves of torque converter to unbolt from crankshaft.   
The '57 has a one piece torque converter with a mini flex plate that the 
converter bolts to and it bolts to flywheel.  The both have the starter teeth 
one the torque converter.   Also there is a thin paper gasket between the 
front half of torque converter and crankshaft that must be installed to 
avoild trans fluid leak on '54.  I am sure you will need the torque coverter 
from the '53 transmission and hopefully it will bolt to the '57 crank.   I 
don't have any experience with that.   Good Luck.   Bruce      Mr57olds

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 22:30:58 -0400
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: FS: 68-75+ Olds Parts

                                                      C&M Classic Parts
                                1132 Chatmoss Drive, Virginia Beach, VA 23464
                                          (757)474-0869, FAX (757)474-0694
                                         
                                              <mailto:chermac@exis.net>
                                                          OCA# 24275

             Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 PM - 10:00 PM,  Sat 9:00 AM - 3:00 PM, 
Sunday
                          Closed
            *We accept all major Credit Cards. VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and
              Discover.*

New arrival "Parts"
70 (NOS) RH Eyebrow Moldings $55.00 ea
70 (NOS) LH Hood Molding $95.00
70-72 AM/FM Stereo (nice cond) $175.00
71-72 Sport Mirrors (compete) $90.00 set
71-72 (NOS) Sport Mirror Brackets $15.00 pr
68-72 Washer Bottles (black or white, w/cap) $26.00 ea
W-27 Rear Axle Covers (12 & 10 bolt, new w/gasket & bolts) $85.00
.474 lift 308 duration cam (new, repro) $90.00
.475 lift 328 duration cam (NOS) $150.00
Small Block Olds Edelbrock Intake Manifold (Old square bore OL4B, nice) $150.00
S/B Edelbrock 3711 Performer Intakes (nice) $100.00 ea
70 Rallye 350 Stripe Kits (made from a NOS set, perfect, complete) $400.00 set
68-69 Ram Air Hoses (perfect repro) $80.00 pr
70-72 Conv Trunk Lids (Mint, used) $250.00 ea
70-77 Sport Steering Wheel (nice) $175.00
SSI and SSII/III Center Rocket Stickers (correct raised repro) $5.00 ea
68-72 400/455 Notched Valve Covers (very nice)  $100.00 pr
70-74 SSII/III Wheels 14x7 (5 w/trim rings and NOS caps, very nice) $340.00 set
70-72 Dual Gate Top & Console Plate $100.00 set
70-72 Dash Pads (various colors, mint)  $100.00 ea
71-72 Cutlass Rear Bumper (super nice core) $100.00
68-72 Conv Top Mechanism (nice used) $200.00
68-72 Front Windshield Molding (set, mint) $45.00
68-72 Conv. Windshield Chrome Molding Set (mint) $120.00
68-72 "S" Hardtop Rear Window Molding (set, mint)  $45.00
68-75+ Auto Trans Flex Plates  $35.00 ea
  
New Repro Parts:
Metro Moulded Door Seals $60.00 pr
Metro Moulded Roof Rail Seals $60.00 pr
Metro Moulded Trunk Seal $16.00 ea
68-72 Gas Tanks (Nice Repro)  $199.00
70-72 Dash Chrome Bead (new)  $54.00 ea
67-70 Turn Signal Levers (repro)  $27.00 ea
67-70 Tilt Levers (repro)  $27.00 ea 
68-72 License Plate Bracket (Repro)  $26.50
68-72 1/4 Glass Chrome Moldings (Repro)  $92.00 pr
69-72 Rear Spoiler (3 piece repro)  $255.00
70-72 Hood Pin Kits (NEW, original supplier, complete setup) $115.00
71 or 72 442 Grille Numeral Sets (repro, either year)  $34.00 set
71-72 442 Hood Emblem (repro, Non OAI) $20.00
  
New Old Stock (N.O.S.) Parts 1964-1972 Olds/Cutlass/442
68 (N.O.S.) Cutlass/442 Turn Signal Lens (front, 2 prs)  $25.00 pr
68-72+ TH Torque Converter Cover (Plastic, N.O.S.)  $36.00 ea
66-72 SSI Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
68-75 SSII/III Center Caps (N.O.S.) $36.50 ea
69 Wiper Switches (NOS) $60.00 ea
69-72 442 Trunk Numeral Sets (N.O.S.) $60.00 set
69-70 442 Hood Numeral Sets  (N.O.S.) $60.00 set
69-72 442 Fender Numeral Sets (N.O.S.) $45.00 set
70-72 Hurst Dual Gate Shifter Cable (N.O.S.)  $55.00
70-72 OAI Air Cleaner Springs (N.O.S)  $5.00 ea
70-72 (NOS) W-30 Emblems $75.00 pr
70-72 (NOS) Choke Heat Tubes $11.00 ea
70-72 (NOS) Intake Choke Tube (455/350) $32.00
70-72 (NOS) Hardtop Trunk Lid $650.00
70-72 (NOS) Backup Lens $18.00 ea
70-72 (NOS) Fenders LH/RH $1300.00 pr
70-72 442/Cutlass "S" Trunk Lid (NOS) $650.00
71-72 (NOS) RH Turn Lens $45.00
71-72 (NOS) RH Sport Mirror $75.00
71-72 Front Stone Shield Plastics (N.O.S)  $35.00 ea                        
73 (NOS) H/O and 74-75 Cutlass Front Rocket w/ red insert $40.00
73 (NOS) Vista Cruiser Tail Light Lens (inner pair)  $25.00 pr
74 (NOS) Delta 88 & Royale Gas Filler Lid Molding  $45.00
 
USED PARTS:
68 Cutlass/442
68 Hood Hinges  $60.00 pr
68 442 Air Cleaner Assm  $150.00
68-69 Rallye Pac (Very nice)  $425.00 
68 Hood Hinges (nice) $60.00 pr
68 OAI Dual Snorkel Breather Assm (nice orig) $550.00
68-69 Hurst Olds Dual Bail Master Cylinders $38.00 (+$18.00 core) 
68-69 LH Post Coupe Door (very nice)  $75.00
68 Front Bumper (nice w 2 small dings)  $125.00
68 Trunk Vinyl Top Molding & Plate  $25.00
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
68 Cutlass Rear Bumper (core)  $75.00
68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $35.00              
Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set                               
68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00                     
68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $25.00 ea
68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea                                
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Sets (black, mint) $27.50 pr 

69 Cutlass/442
69 SSII Wheels 14x6 (5 w/trim rings and NOS caps, very nice) $340.00 set
68-69 Rallye Pac (Very nice)  $425.00 
68-69 LH Post Coupe Door (very nice)  $75.00
68-69 Hurst Olds Dual Bail Master Cylinders $38.00 (+$18.00 core) 
68-69 Front Side Marker Lights  $17.00 pr
68-69 Glove Box Door  $15.00
69 442/Cutlass RH Tail Lens (mint) $35.00 ea 
69 Cutlass/442 Conv trunk lid (mint)  $150.00
69 Hood Tongue $30.00
69 Front Grille Center Filler (between grilles)  $8.00
69 Full Hubcaps (nice)  $35.00 set
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
69-72 Hood Hinges  $40.00 pr
69-70 "S" Hood Louver Chrome  $25.00 pr
69-70 "S" Hood Louver Moldings  $25.00 pr
68-72 Windshield Molding Sets  $45.00 set                                 
69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $35.00 ea
69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $25.00 ea
69 Cutlass/442 Wiper Switch $25.00

70 Cutlass/442
70 OAI Hood (nice)  $800.00 
70 OAI Hood (good) $400.00
70 442 Rear Bumper Cores $100.00 ea
70 442 Grilles (new)  $250.00 pr
70 442 Hood Tongue (mint) $55.00
70 W-31 350 Intake (very nice) $425.00
70 Fender Eyebrows (nice, no pits)  $45.00 pr
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
70 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr
70-71 Halo Vinyl Top Molding sets no "L " moldings (mint) $55.00 set
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea             
70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00                                    
69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00                                
70 "S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr         
70-72 Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens (restored)  $15.00 ea
70 Cutlass Supreme Tail Light Lens (restored) $23.00 ea

71 Cutlass/442
70-71 Cutlass Supreme Side Marker Lights $60.00 set
71 Cutlass "S" Grilles (very nice used)  $125.00 pr
71-72 Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $45.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $30.00 pr
71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set
71 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr

72 Cutlass/442
72 Deluxe Steering Wheel (very nice Green, no cracks) $125.00
71-72 Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $45.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $30.00 pr
72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00                                  
72 Headlight Bezels (restored) $40.00 pr            
72 Tail Light Lens  $13.00 ea used, $26.00 ea (N.O.S.)

81-88 Cutlass / 442 / Hurst/Olds 
USED
81-88 Used Cutlass/442/Hurst Full Quarter Panels (mint, w/ inner & outer wheel
house)  $300.00 pr
81-88 Used Cutlass/442 Fenders (mint)  $75.00 ea
81-88? Used Front Bumpers (chrome, very nice)  $90.00
81-88? Used Rear Bumpers (chrome, very nice)  $95.00
81-86 Used Front Header Panel (very good)  $85.00
81-86 Used Front Bumper Rubber (nice)  $60.00
81-88 Used Rear Bumper Rubber (nice)  $60.00
81-88 Used Trunk Lid (mint)  $75.00
81-88 Used Interior Rear Side window panels (mint, burgundy)  $75.00 pr
81-84 Tail Light Assm (used, mint pair)  $150.00

(NOS)
Rear Hood Molding and (2) Top Fender Moldings  $70.00 set
Center Hood Molding  $35.00
Front Bumper Chrome Stripes (2) $85.00 ea
85-88 LH&RH Taillight Assm  $105.00 ea
85-88 LH&RH Taillight Bezels  $85.00 ea
Rear Bumper Chrome Strips and clip ends  $300.00
Rear Bumper Emblem "Oldsmobile"  $30.00
Front Bumper Emblem "Oldsmobile"  $30.00
Dash Emblem "Oldsmobile"  $15.00
Rear Window molding set (4 pieces)  $230.00
Dash Gauge Plastic Lens  $40.00
Front Windshield Molding Set (3 pieces) $210.00
Front Windshield Large Lower Molding  $68.00
(4) Front and Rear Side Marker Lens  $100.00 set
(2) Dash Vents (Center)  $20.00 ea
(2) Dash Vents (Long Pass. Side)  $23.00 ea
LH&RH Rear Side Windows (w/chrome Bead)  $175.00 ea
LH&RH Door Seals  $150.00 ea
Radiator Insulators (Upper and Lower)  $8.00 ea
LH&RH Door Sill Plates  $65.00 ea
85-88 Pwr Window Switch (2 button Drivers side)  $45.00
Air Cleaner Air Inlet Duct  $20.00
LH&RH Door Handles  $55.00 ea
LH&RH Turn Signal Lens Assm  $30.00 ea
LH&RH Side Window Molding sets  $inquire
LH&RH Headlight Bezels  $40.00 ea 
  
New reproduction parts:
Convertible Top Boots (Correct Grains for each different year)  $104.00ea
64  Black, Red, Lt. Blue, Fawn, Saddle, Turquoise, White
65  Same as 64  
66-67 Black, Red, Light Blue, Med. Blue, Bronze, Turquoise, White, Gold
68-72 Black, Red, Parchment, Lt. Blue, Teal Blue, Green Gold, Gold, Pearl,
Dk Blue, Dk. Green, Lt. Green, Lt. Saddle, Dk Saddle, Olive Green, Royal
Blue, White, Sandalwood, 

Molded Carpet Sets  $109.00 
64-67 - (Black, Red, Med. Blue, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Maroon)
68-72 - (Black, Red, Maroon, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Med. Blue, Dk.
Green,
Green Gold, Lt. Green, Teal Blue, Saddle, Sandalwood)
73-77 - (Same as 68-72 except Green Gold)

Door Panels  64-72  $275.00 for a set of all 4

Seat Covers  64-72  $355.00 front and rear sets any year or color.

Lifetime Guarantee on all correct bead window felts  $92.00 set (inner &
outer)
68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (not Supreme Coupes, correct bead) 
68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv (Outers only, correct bead)  $50.00

Glove Box Liners
68-69 Glove box Liner w/clips  $18.99
70-72 Glove box Liner w/clips  $18.99

Qrt Seals
70-72 Cutlass Supreme & Conv Qtr End seals  $13.00 pr

Hood Insulation
68-70 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner (w clips)  $24.00
70-72 Cutlass Supreme Hood Liner (w/clips)  $24.00
73-77 Cutlass $30.00

Liner Clips
Round Clips  $.75 ea
Square Clips  $.75 ea

A-Arm Shields
68-72 Upper A-Arm dust shields  $18.99 pr

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 21:39:19 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 1965 hood pads

>What is the purpose of this pad? Is it to protect the hood paint?
>
>cf


It's purpose is to collect years of dust and then shower it down
on your nice clean motor making it neither nice or clean.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 22:53:20 EDT
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69 H/O in July'99 MCR...it's SLOW!

Thats because its not a 1968!




; )      OK OK    I am only kidding!!!!!!!!!


Geeeeeeeeeeez    cant anyone take a joke??

LOL

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 21:58:06 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Bucket seats

<snip of upholstery question I have no clue about>

> How
>risky would it be to leave the original front springs
>in? Should I just go ahead and find the money for new
>springs while I'm at it? The car sits very nice as is
>right now. I know that this might turn out being a
>"personal preference" question, but I want some
>opinions.
>
>Thanks,
>Del


If the car sits where you want it and the handling is to
your liking then there shouldn't be any problem with 
keeping the springs that are in there now.  The only
thing that would make it advisable is if they are so
worn out that the suspension bottoms out or it's just
so soft that the handling is completely gone.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 22:04:03 -0500 (CDT)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Dr. Olds - K. Wood)
Subject: VIbrations again.  Kinda Solved.

To everybody who offered ideas trying to find
annoying noises in my car, thanks again.

I was fortunate enough to be lent a different 
rear-end for my car today.  It was a restoration
guy that I have done business with.  He happened to have a core rear
laying around.
It is an open rear with highway friendly gearing.
Anyway- the I swapped the rears tonight and then went for the smoothest
ride I've ever had
in that car.  Even though that rear has obviously seen better days and I
was using my spare cruddy tires, it drove as smooth as glass.

The guy that lent me the rear is the same guy
that I originally bought mine from 6 or 8 years 
ago, and also the same guy that did the set up
of ring and pinion last year.  Maybe I should
have had him check the straightness of the
carrier too...

Anyhow, I will be taking my posi into his shop
Thursday, and he has a specialist that will check all tolerances and
locate the trouble.

The Vibration is gone...  I can sleep now.

Thanks again.
Kevin D. Wood
Dr-Olds@webtv.net


Just in case anybody in the SE Wisconsin area
needs a genuine nice guy to do work for you-
call Larry at Butler Auto Classics.  Specializes
in Musclecars- especially Pontiacs.
414-466-2300

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 23:06:09 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1965 hood pads

In a message dated 5/5/99 9:39:53 PM Central Daylight Time, 
mbloomer@mindspring.com writes:

<< It's purpose is to collect years of dust and then shower it down
 on your nice clean motor making it neither nice or clean.
  >>
  Oh...you forgot that it also absorbs moister like a spong making your hood 
150lbs heavier after driving in the rain. 

Collyn 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 23:21:04 -0400
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: VIbrations again.  Kinda Solved.

I don't mean to burst your bubble - but you may not be out of the woods
yet.  If the rear that you swapped in is more like a 2.xx series gear, you
drive shaft will be spinning much slower.  This will basically simulate the
type of drive that you had a lower speeds with your 3.55 rear (speeds below
where the vibration started)...  So the vibration may still be linked to the
drive shaft...
Just food for thought - sorry!
Todd Daenzer
'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a Jetaway and 2.73's :-(

Dr. Olds - K. Wood wrote:

> To everybody who offered ideas trying to find
> annoying noises in my car, thanks again.
>
> I was fortunate enough to be lent a different
> rear-end for my car today.  It was a restoration
> guy that I have done business with.  He happened to have a core rear
> laying around.
> It is an open rear with highway friendly gearing.
> Anyway- the I swapped the rears tonight and then went for the smoothest
> ride I've ever had
> in that car.  Even though that rear has obviously seen better days and I
> was using my spare cruddy tires, it drove as smooth as glass.
>
> The guy that lent me the rear is the same guy
> that I originally bought mine from 6 or 8 years
> ago, and also the same guy that did the set up
> of ring and pinion last year.  Maybe I should
> have had him check the straightness of the
> carrier too...
>
> Anyhow, I will be taking my posi into his shop
> Thursday, and he has a specialist that will check all tolerances and
> locate the trouble.
>
> The Vibration is gone...  I can sleep now.
>
> Thanks again.
> Kevin D. Wood
> Dr-Olds@webtv.net
>
> Just in case anybody in the SE Wisconsin area
> needs a genuine nice guy to do work for you-
> call Larry at Butler Auto Classics.  Specializes
> in Musclecars- especially Pontiacs.
> 414-466-2300

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 22:19:55 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: How much for a tach?

I have a sunpro that I have been using for years it is the digital model
that normally sells for about 69-70 dollars if the one you are looking at is
the engine analyzer analog version forget it spend a little more and get a
better tool mine does volts dwell rpm and ohms and the only thing replaced
is batteries and leads have had it for about 10 years ...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 5:15 PM
Subject: How much for a tach?


> I think that I would like to buy a dwell/tachometer (and if that's not
what
> it's called, then what is it called?) that I would use to do timing
> adjustments, etc.  This wouldn't be of a type that you could readily use
> while driving (although anything's possible, I suppose...) - I would keep
> it on the shelf right next to the timing light until I needed it.
>
> I saw what I think was a SunPro model at Parts America for $40 - is this a
> decent price?
>
> Does anyone want to share info on just the GREATEST one of these they've
> ever owned, or a brand that absolutely sucks?
>
> Thanks,
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
- --
> Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
> MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
> 2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
> Austin, TX 78722          Home: (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
>                                               (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
> 1984 Oldsmobile          Pager: (512) 483-8056
> Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
> 4-door
> "The Party Barge"
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
- --
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 23:23:47 EDT
From: QWKCUTLASS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Need to rebuild a 69/70 455

Tom, Summit racinghas most of thee arts for a pretty cheap price...some you 
may need to get from someone who deals only with Olds..

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 22:27:50 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Fender/Doors

>I am in the process of putting my Rallye 350 back together again. I am
going
>to install the fenders, doors, and hood. Is there someone out there that
>could give me some tips on what to do? So far I have the driver door and
>fender on. It doesn't seem to be aligning properly. I put the door on
first,
>and then the fender, and it DOESN'T look to hot. I suppose it's like all
the
>other stuff though. I would appreciate it if I could get responses on this
>because I don't want to scratch the new paint when I'm SO close to
finishing
>up. The door looks good, but the fender doesn't want to align.
>Thanks as always!
>Jim McKeague

Jim,
Aligning fenders is one of those things that is more of an art than
anything.
How is out of alignment?  Are these the same fenders that came off the car?
You did keep track of what shims went where, didn't you?  The door and the
fender can be moved about a zillion different ways.  Generally you want to
align the door first and then the fender, but it is always a process of
going
back and forth making smaller and smaller adjustments until you either give
up or get it perfect.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 23:26:45 EDT
From: QWKCUTLASS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Backspacing

I have 15x8 on the front of my 74 Cutlass, and i am running a 4.5 backspace, 
and you may have to roll the quaterpanel to fit a 30in tirei have a 28 and it 
barely fits

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 22:32:45 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 1965 hood pads

><< It's purpose is to collect years of dust and then shower it down
> on your nice clean motor making it neither nice or clean.
>  >>
>  Oh...you forgot that it also absorbs moister like a spong making your
hood
>150lbs heavier after driving in the rain.
>
>Collyn

On the few cars I've had that still had the pad, it was waterproofed.  Will
not soak up water when already soaked with oil!

Mike Bloomer

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 22:39:33 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Fender/Doors

loosen all bolts shim the gap between the fender and door with cardboard get
about 3/16" all the way around the door then set the fender adjust it for
the same probably a 1/8"shim under the two bottom bolts between the fender
and the nut probably 1/8" under tab inside door and probaly 1/4"  top tab
should have no shim between tab and firewall and no shims necessary between
fender and core support if all else fails shim with cardboard shims till you
get it where you want then swap in metal shims also a strip of 3M masking an
the edges helps prevent nicks if I could find it I would cover everything in
that white stuff they put on new cars to ship em also put masking tape on
the wrench you use to tighten the bolts in case you slip off so it doesnt
ding the paint good luck and hope this helps ....KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <DROLDS350@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Cc: <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 7:15 PM
Subject: Fender/Doors


> I am in the process of putting my Rallye 350 back together again. I am
going
> to install the fenders, doors, and hood. Is there someone out there that
> could give me some tips on what to do? So far I have the driver door and
> fender on. It doesn't seem to be aligning properly. I put the door on
first,
> and then the fender, and it DOESN'T look to hot. I suppose it's like all
the
> other stuff though. I would appreciate it if I could get responses on this
> because I don't want to scratch the new paint when I'm SO close to
finishing
> up. The door looks good, but the fender doesn't want to align.
> Thanks as always!
> Jim McKeague
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 00:08:10 EDT
From: Jon442@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69 H/O in July'99 MCR...it's SLOW!

I think there was also something in the article about the car not running 
right when the test was done....

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 05 May 1999 22:11:21 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: 1978 Cutlass Interior Question

> I would like to change out my interior on my '78 Cutlass. 

78 to 88 will all gladly interchange, but different trim packages/years may
require a little reworking.  i.e. a few different styles of door panels, other
trims, etc.  In 82, they changed to the rocker headlight switch, which wires up
differently.  Same for CCC equipped vehicles, more wiring changes to adapt, if
you're changing everything.

- -- 
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://drive.to/Oldsmagnet    See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 23:13:47 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Parking lights, long

>>I took it as a given that the wire was hot in my car since
>>the lights worked and I was going by the factory schematic
>>with the color codes.  I did probe the problem car and got
>>nothing.
>
>Um, nothing where? Basically, with the switch installed and turned on, the
>brown wire should have +12V as measured in the trunk. If so, the lights
>should be on. If not (and evidently it is indeed dead), stab the brown wire
>up at the dashboard end and see if it's hot there. If not, do whatever you
>can to see if the contact coming out of the headlight switch is hot. IOW,
>there isn't a whole lot of tracing to do on this circuit; it just comes out
>of the switch and runs to the back of the car.


This is the damnable thing about it.  There is 12V going into the switch and
the headlights light up so there is current going through the switch.  By
putting the probes directly on the spade on the switch there is nothing
going to the brown wire.


>>Starting to think that a short in one of
>>the other circuits (i.e. dash lights,
>>interior lights, etc.) that is tied
>>into the headlight switch has a short in
>>it and is letting all the current bypass the
>>parking lights.  Sound plausible?
>
>Not really. The other lights (such as the dash lights) have separate
>unrelated outputs from the headlight switch. The dash lamps also run
through
>its rheostat (dimmer). The interior lights don't run through it per se; it
>grounds them to turn them on. (See other long boring thread about courtesy
>light wiring.  :-) And a short anywhere would blow fuses.


That's what I would think also but there is no fuse between the
power input to the headlight switch and the switch itself.  There
is the internal circuit breaker, though.  The thing that has me
thinking short is that the switch gets hot very quickly whenever
you switch it on.  That tells me that it's flowing a lot of current
(same switch does not get hot in my car) and it's definately not
going to the parking lights. 8P

>Actually I think it's a wiring fault and your switch wouldn't work in his
>car anyway. Maybe you've got an intermittent open, such as broken wires
>inside the insulation. I've found that in some strange places.


Trust me, when I get a chance to take another look at the car on
Saturday I will check everything concievable.  It's personal now.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 13:56:04 +0900
From: Nick Dean <freewolf@msa.attmil.ne.jp>
Subject: Light Bulb Wattages

This may sound like an odd question, but I was hoping one of you guys
with electrical wiring diagrams could help me out.  I need to find the
recommended wattages of many of the bulbs on my 72 Supreme.  If someone
can help, please send me an email privately and I'll get a list of the
ones I need out to you.

TIA
Nick Dean

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 00:08:39 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: How much for a tach?

Kerry wrote:

At 10:19 PM 5/5/99 -0500, you wrote:
>I have a sunpro that I have been using for years it is the digital model
>that normally sells for about 69-70 dollars if the one you are looking at is
>the engine analyzer analog version forget it spend a little more and get a
>better tool mine does volts dwell rpm and ohms and the only thing replaced
>is batteries and leads have had it for about 10 years ...KK

OK...a picture of the the one that I was looking at (Dwell/Tach/Volts
Analyzer - CP7605, web price $49.99) can be found at the following link:

http://www.actron.com/cgi-bin/web_store.cgi?page=cp7605.htm

I'm pretty sure that this is the one that you are telling me not to get.

Now, there are two digital multimeters (that do tach) on the SunPro site - 

(Digital Engine Analyzer - CP7678, web price $109.99)
http://www.actron.com/cgi-bin/web_store.cgi?page=cp7678.htm

and

(Diagnostic Multimeter - CP7680, web price $139.99)
http://www.actron.com/cgi-bin/web_store.cgi?page=cp7680.htm

Now, the cheaper one of these is $110, the more expensive one is $140, both
are between $70 and $100 MORE EXPENSIVE than the analog model.  Even
factoring in that these "web prices" are possibly $10 - $20 more than
retail, this is still a big chunk of change.

I'm glad I asked this question, because if I hadn't I probably already
would have bought the analog model.  Am I missing an available model
somewhere (between the analog and the cheaper digital one)?

Are these more expensive digital testers worth it?

If I WAS going to drop the money for one of these two digital ones, I
probably would have to buy the more expensive one - because there's only
$30 difference between the two digitals.  Once you jump up the initial $70
(analog to digital) the extra $30 seems like a drop in the bucket, and to
buy the cheaper seems (to me) to be a waste of resources.  IS THIS A STUPID
WAY TO LOOK AT THIS?
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 00:28:30 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Fender/Doors

The fender should have shims at either the cowl are and or the bottom of
the fender where the two bolts hold the fender. Try shimming the area where
it bolts up to the side, where the door hinges are. It may take some
playing around with 1 shim here and 2 or 3 shims there....
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: DROLDS350@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Cc: DROLDS350@aol.com
> Subject: Fender/Doors
> Date: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 7:15 PM
> 
> I am in the process of putting my Rallye 350 back together again. I am
going 
> to install the fenders, doors, and hood. Is there someone out there that 
> could give me some tips on what to do? So far I have the driver door and 
> fender on. It doesn't seem to be aligning properly. I put the door on
first, 
> and then the fender, and it DOESN'T look to hot. I suppose it's like all
the 
> other stuff though. I would appreciate it if I could get responses on
this 
> because I don't want to scratch the new paint when I'm SO close to
finishing 
> up. The door looks good, but the fender doesn't want to align.
> Thanks as always!
> Jim McKeague

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 01:52:30 -0500 (CDT)
From: blue442@webtv.net (Jeff Carter)
Subject: Re: 69 H/O in July'99 MCR...it's SLOW!

A couple years ago I saw a stock 69 H/O run down the 1/4 here.  He ran
13.70's.  The car did have the no hop bars.  Can't remember the tires,
but they were stock size.  This was on a hot day, and I'm sure the track
was dusty (west Texas in the spring). He had the 3.90 gear ratio.  

This does not provide for elevation correction.  I don't know Lubbock's
elevation, but it amounts to approximately one second at the 14 second
range.

I imagine a properly tuned H/O in good repair should pull an easy low 13
second pass.  This still leaves a lot of room for hi perf equipment.

Jeff 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 05:46:01 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <hurstolds@duesouth.net>
Subject: Re: 69 H/O in July'99 MCR...it's SLOW!

In defense of the 69 H/Os, people need to remember one thing.....

It was a PRE-1970 442 with OAI and a "shift kit".  That's really about it.
Sure, it had cool little items on it and a flashy paint job, but consider
the conversions took about a day...and the only "performance" enhancer was
the addition of the ram air system.  It was a 69 442 with a 455 in it is
what it amounted to.  Even when NEW, Motor Trend's best was 13.98 at just
over 100 mph.  I think if they had offered 4 speeds (two in 68 only
according to Jeff Matheny at Demmer), they'd have had a bigger hit back
then.

The car isn't a dog, but it's NOT a W-30 either.  It blazed some trails
(W-35 wing) while also trying to continue the voyage that the slightly
faster 68 version started.  Anyone seen the 1975 H/O 455 times?  Doesn't get
any better.

The visual impact of the 69 H/O is still as unique today as it was over 30
years ago.  That's probably part of the mystique surrounding the car.
According to Doc Watson, it was just a business venture between Hurst and
Olds to sell a few more cars and both make a few bucks.  That was ALL.  I'm
personally glad it happened.  It's not the fastest, but it's an Olds and
it's still very cool.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 07:03:44 -0400
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Re: Backspacing

I am running the prostar 10 in rim with 5 1/2 back space on my 68 with mt
28-13.5-15 streets. snug fit.              butch

Peter Landowski wrote:

> I have a 72 442 convertible. I am looking to buy Weld Pro Star rims 15 x 8.
> I was wondering what is the best backspacing (3 1/2 or 4 1/2)? Does anypone
> think I can run a 30 x 10 drag radial without rubbing. I believe the
> convertible wheel well has more room than the hardtop.
> Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 08:23:03 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69 H/O in July'99 MCR...it's SLOW!

In a message dated 99-05-05 22:56:45 EDT, you write:

<< Thats because its not a 1968! >>

You got that right...68s are the best....and next is the 83 Hurst Olds..

ok,ok I am only kidding too....Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 08:25:58 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: 69 H/O in July'99 MCR...it's SLOW!

In a message dated 99-05-06 05:44:22 EDT, you write:

<< In defense of the 69 H/Os, people need to remember one thing.....
 
 It was a PRE-1970 442 with OAI and a "shift kit".  That's really about it.
 Sure, it had cool little items on it and a flashy paint job, >>

Oh boy are we going to get responses to this one....Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 06 May 1999 08:41:54 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: ICQ

Well, I had ICQ yesterday but I can't keep it loaded. My computer and every
computer here runs from a common desktop on the network. All my settings
revert back to default everytime I log off. I came in and the ICQ was gone.
Is there a way around it that I could load it up locally somewhere else on
my machine? Would it work right?

Omega Man
'74 Omega S
'74 Omega






At 07:56 PM 5/5/99 -0400, you wrote:
>I've got ICQ up all day, but the junk you get is not that pretty. All kinds
>of solicitations. Good communicator though. Talk to people from all over the
>world. Has built in chat rooms. Really great. But, I have it at work and
>don't have the number. Let's ICQ ... By the way, ISP's HATE IT. Lotsa
>bandwidth use.....
>
>++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>+
>+
>++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
>VBDeveloper@worldnet.att.net
>
>                                       =
>                                           =
>                                                =
>==================================
>'69 Olds Ninety-Eight Topless Bubba=========
>====666=================999============
>        666                                  999
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Date: Wednesday, May 05, 1999 11:09 AM
>Subject: ICQ
>
>
>>Are any of you ICQ users? I have a friend in Columbus that keeps nagging me
>>to install ICQ so we can send realtime messages. So I figured I'd give it a
>>shot and load it up today at lunchtime. Maybe some of us can take some Olds
>>b-essing realtime. Just wondering.
>>
>>Omega Man
>>'74 Omega S 455
>>'74 Omega L_T_P..............
>>
>>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 09:11:20 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: 2 Questions

...hello all.  the chrome on my rear bumper is kinda nasty looking, so i'm
thinking about painting it body color when i repaint the car.  what
prep work is required? can i use body filler on the bumper?

further:
the car is a '70 442.  any thoughts on how it would look with a painted
bumper? maybe someone has a picture of a '70 - '72 cutlass with painted
bumpers?
_____________

The best way to paint a bumper is to take it to a chrome shop and have them
chemically strip the plating off before painting.  Of course, this will cost a
significant fraction of the cost of a replate anyway.  At a minimum you need to
have the bumper thoroughly sandblasted to both remove the rust and to allow the
paint to get a good "bite" in what's left of the chrome (paint doesn't normally
stick that well to chrome).  Use a high-quality self-etching primer.  Yes, you
can use body filler just like any other sheet metal.  As for looks, check out a
70 Rallye 350, which came from the factory with painted bumpers.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 6 May 1999 08:11:56 -0500 
From: "Johnson, Samuel" <SJohnso6@allstate.com>
Subject: Alloy rims

I've got a lot of brake dust on my alloy rims and was wondering if anyone
out there in Olds land can help me or give some info on something I can use
to clean my rims.  I have tried to scrub them and everything but nothing
seems to help.  Please help me.

Sam Johnson
1971 Cutlass 455
95 Ford Thunder Bird

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1944
*********************************

