Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1996


oldsmobile-digest       Thursday, June 3 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1996



Re: Goo Be Gone
Steering question
Buying a set of mags. Who's got the good prices?
Re: Steering question
Re: Steering question
Re: Hypothetical Cold Air Induction System
Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy an Engine Plant?
Re: Goo Be Gone
Re: Steering question
1976 Cutlass "S" factory engineering cars
FASTEST OLDS EVER (was Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy)
non-adjusting automatic adjusters 
Re: Tranny coolers...go - or no-go
87 Custom Cruiser, Durable car?
Re: FASTEST OLDS EVER (was Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy)
Re: FASTEST OLDS EVER (was Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy)
Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos
Re: FASTEST OLDS EVER (was Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy)
determining TDC  & a  major ouchie..
Re: 87 Custom Cruiser, Durable car?
Straight 50 Weight Oil
Mondello's new aluminum intakes
1976 Cutlass "S" Factory Engineering cars
Oil Gallery Restrictors
Anti lock breaks
ADV: Web Site Tips - Improve Results
Signing off for a little
Re: Raising engine
RE: Mondello's new aluminum intakes
Re: Headers on a 350, was '68 350 budget power
Re: Stormy Weather..... and SOM [long]
Re: water injection
Where to get transmission rebuild video & book?
Manuals for my OLDS
Re: determining TDC  & a  major ouchie..
Re: FASTEST OLDS EVER (was Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy)
Re: Water Injection 
Re: Hypothetical Cold Air Induction System
Edelbrock carb tuning
O2 into the carb (was hypothetical cold air induction)
Re: determining TDC  & a  major ouchie..
Re: Goo Be Gone
general info
Re: Goo Be Gone
Distributor Question
Re: O2 into the carb (was hypothetical cold air induction)
Re: 87 Custom Cruiser, Durable car?
safety first
Re: FASTEST OLDS EVER (was Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy)
Re: Straight 50 Weight Oil
Re: Tranny coolers...go - or no-go
RE: posi question...
Re: Buying a set of mags. Who's got the good prices?
Re: 160 deg VS. 180 deg
Re:Snake oils and other engine voodoos
Re: ATF?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 12:55:03 -0500
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
Subject: Re: Goo Be Gone

try zippo lighter fluid and a cotton ball it disolves the goo easily...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Four42much@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 1999 11:28 AM
Subject: Re: Goo Be Gone


> In a message dated 99-06-03 07:58:59 EDT, you write:
>
> << I still after a year have the goo from masking tape that the body guys
had
>  on my vinyl top. Nothing takes this off without also spot removing the
vinyl
>  color. Please don't make a thread out of this. I have tried every
suggestion
>  known to man and this list last fall.  >>
> Why not try WD-40 .....works great on that with some scrubbing....Hot Rod
> Harry
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 13:02:01 -0500
From: Gail Bedosky <gailmedic@home.com>
Subject: Steering question

I have a '72 Olds Cutlass 'S'.

It has the traditional 'floaty' feel to the steering. Does anyone know
of a fix for this, or is it just something that will forever be with the
car?

Thanks in advance, all the best,

Gail

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 13:19:16 -0500
From: cdemps@lsumc.edu (Dempsey, Charles)
Subject: Buying a set of mags. Who's got the good prices?

I have decided to buy myself a set of American Racing Torq Thrust-D
wheels for father's day ;-). See 'em at
<http://www.americanracing.com/wheelinfo/specs.asp?model=TORQ-THRUST>.

List price from the americanracing.com site is $206.00 each for 15X7. I
have a quote from preformance-tire.com at $165.00 each.

Does anybody know of a site with a better price? I've questioned the
usual suspects (tirerack.com, etc) and most don't even carry American
Racing products. There are no dealers in Shreveport either, not that I'd
get a very good price from them even if there were.

Thanks,
Charles

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 12:51:22 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Steering question

Gail, 

Sure the older cars feel different then a 99 model year car but usually 
the whole suspension of a car that old is worn out. It will get play 
everywhere and the springs sag etc., which gives you the boat-feeling. 

It sounds like you need a complete rebuild of at least the front 
suspension and steering. You should also get an aftermarket strong sway 
bar in the front to improve handling. Suspension/Steering rebuilds are 
not fun but it will be worth the effort and the $. I can't tell you how 
much I spent on mine since most of the new parts came with my car when I 
bought it. There are people on the list which sure could answer this 
question though. There are some they did it themselves but also some that 
had it done at a shop. 

Regards, George

- -----------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. (not floating but not running yet either...) 
http://www.geocities/MotorCity/Boulevard/8004/Cutlass.html
- -----------------------------------------------------------------

On Thu, 3 Jun 1999, Gail Bedosky wrote:

> I have a '72 Olds Cutlass 'S'.
> 
> It has the traditional 'floaty' feel to the steering. Does anyone know
> of a fix for this, or is it just something that will forever be with the
> car?
> 
> Thanks in advance, all the best,
> 
> Gail
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 14:08:01 -0400
From: "Randy Geisel" <Rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Steering question

Check for worn front suspension parts. Ball joints, idler arm, and most
likely the gear box.

Randy



> It has the traditional 'floaty' feel to the steering. Does anyone know
> of a fix for this, or is it just something that will forever be with the
> car?
>
> Thanks in advance, all the best,
>
> Gail
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 14:08:16 -0400
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Hypothetical Cold Air Induction System

The NOS Sneaky Pete system is exactly that.
Ed

- -----Original Message-----


>Now the dumb question, has anyone ever tried running a small amount of pure
O2
>into the carb?

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 12:11:41 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy an Engine Plant?

> > Would a 455 Omega be the fastest Olds
> > ever built if it was available??

I'd still have to argue for the Starfire (Monza platform)  They don't get much
smaller than that, I'm ~sure~ it's gotta be a lot lighter.  

- -- 
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://drive.to/Oldsmagnet    See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 14:10:02 -0400
From: "Randy Geisel" <Rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Goo Be Gone

Have you tried acetone?

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 14:11:10 -0400
From: "Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Steering question

Check your idler arm. If it's worn it can give you that "floaty" feel. I had
a '72 Skylark (same basic chassis) that had the same feeling. Replaced the
arm and it felt like a different car.
Ed

- -----Original Message-----

>
>I have a '72 Olds Cutlass 'S'.
>
>It has the traditional 'floaty' feel to the steering. Does anyone know
>of a fix for this, or is it just something that will forever be with the
>car?
>
>Thanks in advance, all the best,
>
>Gail
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 14:15:25 EDT
From: Shosfun@aol.com
Subject: 1976 Cutlass "S" factory engineering cars

I would like to get some info on some 1976 Cutlass "S" models that were built 
as factory engineering cars. The one I owned was silver with grey flames on 
the hood and trunk lid, with double pinstriping. It had a 455 4bbl w/ single 
exhaust. The car was repainted in 1978 and the flames were not redone by the 
dealer. The car was sold or traded in the Appleton Wi. area in 1980. I would 
like to find this car or other cars like it. If you have any info on these 
cars please e-mail me at shosfun@aol.com.
or call Kevin at 319-557-8531

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 14:29:03 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: FASTEST OLDS EVER (was Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy)

At 12:11 PM 6/3/99 -0600, you wrote:
>> > Would a 455 Omega be the fastest Olds
>> > ever built if it was available??
>
>I'd still have to argue for the Starfire (Monza platform)  They don't get
much
>smaller than that, I'm ~sure~ it's gotta be a lot lighter.  
>
>-- 
>Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
>



Maybe by 200-300lbs at best. A loaded 74 Omega with a 455 and a full tank
of gas will weigh in about 3,100-3,200 lbs dripping wet. They are pretty
light. Starfires should weigh in the 2,800 - 3,000 lb area. The Omega is a
much better looking car though. Definitly a tougher ride! Bigger muscles.

Omega Man
'74 Omega S 455/auto
'74 Omega 455/4spd 

ICQ# 38075247

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 11:26 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: non-adjusting automatic adjusters 

Mike Bloomer wrote (about automatic drum brake adjusters):

>Never had a problem as long as you check a couple things.  First, the
>cable for the adjuster can stretch and not put the adjusting plate at 
>the right height.  The other and biggest culprit is stuck adjusters.  
>They should spin pretty freely, but most of the time their fairly 
>hard to turn. Just take it apart, wire brush the threads and use some 
>anti-seize when you put it back together.  And also remember that you 
>have to hit the brakes while travelling backwards for them to work.  
>Best way to adjust front drums to keep them from pulling.
________________________________________
Mike, thanks for the advice! What cables are you referring to? There 
is a short cable connected to the automatic non-adjuster in the Mopar 
drum brakes I've worked on, but I don't remember a cable in my '72 
Supreme's rear drums.

Speaking of automatic adjusters, I recently took apart the rear drum 
brakes on my wifes 94' Mercury Tracer wagon, and found - no automatic 
adjusters. There is instead a stepped plate, which provides adjustment 
of a sort, in steps, but only at assembly time. There is nothing to 
compensate for wear in use, and no way to adjust out clearance smaller 
than one step-size on the adjuster. Now I know why that car has always 
had lousy brake feel, despite a recent brake job (I let a mechanic do 
that, was too busy with work at the time).

One more brake question, I've heard it mentioned that the rear disc 
brakes off a '79-81 Trans Am will swap onto A-body Olds; anyone know 
exactly what's needed for the swap? I actually encountered a 81' WS6 
Trans Am in a local junkyard a while ago, and it donated its 1 1/4" 
front swaybar to Roger (my Supreme), but at the time I didn't know 
about the rear disc brakes, so I didn't get them. This being L.A., the 
car was crushed within a week of its appearance at the yard. Oh, well.

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 14:31:51 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Tranny coolers...go - or no-go

In a message dated 6/3/99 10:43:08 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
csimpson@ucalgary.ca writes:

<< Interesting, my tranny guy said the opposite, he claims that the water in 
the
 rad initially warms up the tranny fluid and that the fluid should not be too
 cold.  When he did my tranny I told him that I had a cooler and he said that 
it
 was OK but he preferred a larger pan and more fluid volume for non-trailer
 applications.  I didn't put a larger pan on because of clearance concerns.  I
 should also note that he specialized in cop cars, fire trucks, and city
 vehicles so he may have had a different perspective than a performance shop.
 
 This also maybe related to the -40 degree the winters up here :0
 -- 
 
 Cliff "What's good for the goose makes the gander sore" Simpson >>

	-40? whats that : ) We're lucky to get below freezing. : ) Thats 
actually what the tranny guy told me too..I forgot we had such a large 
geographic following on the list. He said it doesn't get cold enough HERE to 
worry about it. And I too would have gone with a bigger (truck) pan, but if I 
would have done that, I would have ended up ripping it off on the 
little..uh...bump I hit. Luckily, all I did was break the air dam. Thought 
for sure I had ripped the tranny pan clean off.
	I thought about those "through the radiator ties" too. But I had 
heard (can't remember where) that they can wear throught the cooling tubes. 
Must not be to bad, because thats what the kits came with, but with a new 
radiator, I didn't want to take any chances. I've seen plenty that are held 
on with those straps though. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 11:32:09 -0700
From: Hans Naepflin <mitzm@earthlink.net>
Subject: 87 Custom Cruiser, Durable car?

I'm considering picking up an 87 Custom Cruiser wagon as a cheap commuter car 
for my new 45 mile commute and to act as a backup while my 70 Cutlass gets 
some long overdue sprucing up in anticipation of its 30th Birthday next year.

This car is very nice and clean, rust free (southern california) and shows 
100000 miles on the clock. Based on the nice looking drivers seat I'd figure 
its accurate. They're asking 2500 and I figure its got to be about the 
cheapest car possible to insure.

Now besides the obvious total lack of sex appeal and performance, what are the 
down sides to this car?  How long can I expect before major work is 
required?   Can this be a 200000 mile car with no engine and tranny work or is 
it pretty much due for major work?  Anything in particular to check for?  How 
much is a tranny or engine rebuild going to set me back?  What kind of mileage 
do these babies get?

Thanks,
Hans

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 14:35:27 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: FASTEST OLDS EVER (was Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy)

In a message dated 06/03/1999 2:29:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
ggilpin@wrallp.com writes:

<< Maybe by 200-300lbs at best. A loaded 74 Omega with a 455 and a full tank
 of gas will weigh in about 3,100-3,200 lbs dripping wet. They are pretty
 light. Starfires should weigh in the 2,800 - 3,000 lb area. The Omega is a
 much better looking car though. Definitly a tougher ride! Bigger muscles.
 
 Omega Man >>

Aren't you a little biased??  :-) lol

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30
  

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 14:41:52 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: FASTEST OLDS EVER (was Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy)

At 02:35 PM 6/3/99 EDT, you wrote:
>In a message dated 06/03/1999 2:29:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
>ggilpin@wrallp.com writes:
>
><< Maybe by 200-300lbs at best. A loaded 74 Omega with a 455 and a full tank
> of gas will weigh in about 3,100-3,200 lbs dripping wet. They are pretty
> light. Starfires should weigh in the 2,800 - 3,000 lb area. The Omega is a
> much better looking car though. Definitly a tougher ride! Bigger muscles.
> 
> Omega Man >>
>
>Aren't you a little biased??  :-) lol
>
>Lou Principe
>69 442 W-30
>

eeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaahh, just slightly. I love all makes and model
musclecars though. But I only build the best :)

Omega Man

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 11:41:31 -0700 (PDT)
From: Eric Aksomitis <my_olds@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Snake oils and other engine voodoos

I've always been told that ATF in the gas helps form a layer of carbon
that protects the soft valve seats.  I imagine anything that would
deposit a layer of carbon on the valve seats would work.

Maybe 2-cycle skidoo-oil would be the best, as it is Actually designed
to separate from gas when it hits hot metal, and stick around for a bit
(that's why they run 50-1 now, instead of 16-1 like 20 years ago).

.02 given
Eric Aksomitis
http://www.dlcwest.com./~jed/
http://www.dlcwest.com./~jed/pics/greenhorn/



- --- Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net> wrote:
> I never heard of anyone putting duralube in with
> gas, so it could hurt or
> help it, hard to say.
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 14:42:19 EDT
From: Mrmagic442@aol.com
Subject: Re: FASTEST OLDS EVER (was Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy)

In a message dated 6/3/99 11:37:22 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
LOUS69W30@aol.com writes:

<< << Maybe by 200-300lbs at best. A loaded 74 Omega with a 455 and a full 
tank
  of gas will weigh in about 3,100-3,200 lbs dripping wet. They are pretty
  light. Starfires should weigh in the 2,800 - 3,000 lb area. The Omega is a
  much better looking car though. Definitly a tougher ride! Bigger muscles.
  
  Omega Man >>
  >>
  someone needs to get their scales calibrated

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 11:38 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: determining TDC  & a  major ouchie..

>Bring #1 cyl up to TDC and mark the balancer by the timing pointer.
>Determine TDC by pulling the plug and cranking it over until you
>feel the piston push your finger off of the plug hole.  Continue 
>rotating as you use a small probe to feel the top of the piston.  
_______________________________________________

A while ago someone wrote a letter to one of the car mags describing 
what happened to him when he tried to find TDC by putting a finger 
over the spark-plug hole and turning the engine over. His finger was 
*sucked into* the spark plug hole, after which it jammed in there; he 
ended up needing surgical assistance to get it out.

Now, I don't understand why there was vacuum in the intake cylinder 
unless this guy had disable the valve train first (the intake valve 
should have been open before the piston even began its downstroke!), 
and I guess you'd have to have fairly small fingers for this to be a 
risk to you, but for what it's worth, you can avoid the risk 
completely by using a drinking straw or something similar through the 
plug hole to probe for the top of the piston. Also turning the engine 
over manually with a breaker bar is probably a better idea than 
cranking it over with the starter!

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 16:00:03 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: 87 Custom Cruiser, Durable car?

Actually, I suspect that if/when my Delta goes the way of the dodo bird, I
might end up with one of these. Several people on the list have them, and
I have looked at a number myself. They seem to have some body problems in
a few areas: around the rear side glass trim, mostly surface rust,
probably due to a bit of body flex; and also at the top of the roof/rear
window/rear panel area, especially the lip over the rear glass. Just
about every one I've looked at has either or both of these problem areas.
I have also seen more than a few with water infiltration in the roof
presumably thru the holes for the roof rack, leading to rustout of the
roof itself, typically in the corners or over the rain gutters.

If I could find one in decent shape I'd buy it. They are pretty gutless
drivers, but if you're not looking for a hot rod you should find it pretty
durable. By '87 I would think the tranny problems were pretty much sorted
out. It seems most wagons lead a hard life, so it's tough to find a nice
one. I still think of the mint '79 I saw in Bar Harbour, Me., last summer
(drool), but a nice '87-'90 one of these would be a neat find... 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 14:36:24 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Straight 50 Weight Oil

I was wondering if anyone runs straight 50 weight oil in their 455's? This
being on summer driven vehicles only. Waht about start-up protection? I
have heard that you will make 10-15 pounds more pressure than with 20W-50.

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 14:44:51 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Mondello's new aluminum intakes

Mondello will be coming out with 2 new intakes made by him. The intakes
should be out in 2 months. The first one is an aluminum "street" intake
that will have its power range from 1400-6000 RPM. It will be a single
plane intake. The real kicker here is that the intake outperforms even the
Edelbrock intakes. The intake makes 30HP more than the Edelbrock intakes.
The price is $400.00.

The second intake is an aluminum "race" intake. The power range is from
2400-7500RPM. IT is a single plane intake. The intake supposedly will make
60 HP more than the Edelbrock intakes. The price is $600.00. 

The prices may seem steep but considering a bolt on part that will make
30-60 HP more I think it is well worth it. The intake will have the
Mondello name on it. 

So if you got the $$ you can buy an aluminum Mondello 455 block, aluminum
Mondello intake, Edelbrock or Batten aluminum heads. That combination could
put a race car in the 7's.
Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 15:39:34 EDT
From: Shosfun@aol.com
Subject: 1976 Cutlass "S" Factory Engineering cars

	I posted a note about a 76 Cutlass "s" but I forgot a few details so 
I will make a more complete list. I am looking for information on  cars that 
were "Factory Engineering" cars built in 76. Mine was Silver with grey flames 
on the hood and trunk, with double pinstiping on th sides and around the 
mirrors.
	The interior was black buckets with a silver stripe down the middle 
of all four seating areas. The dash and doors had brushed or turned aluminum 
trim. Other options included (this is from memory)
455 4bbl
auto w/ console shift
tilt
cruise
power windows and locks
trunk release
ralleye wheels
disk brakes (in front for sure)
The car was repainted in 78 due to the 7 or 8 coats of paint for car shows 
cracked (showed chicken tracks)	. Oldsmobile told me that this was 
typical of 
a factory engineereing car. They finally paid for the repaint but would not 
pay for the flames and pinstriping to be redone. I sold the car to a young 
girl in the Appleton/Oshkosh area around 1980. If anyone knows of this car or 
one similar to it, please e-mail at shosfun @aol.com or call Kevin at 
319-557-8531.  

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 14:50:14 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Oil Gallery Restrictors

Those of you running in block restrictors in your 455 are making a
different pressure reading in the main and rods than what your oil pressure
gauge is telling you. Especially if you have the restricted cam bearings
along with the block restrictors. I talked with Mondello and the location
where the gauge reads the pressure is at the top of the motor after all the
restrictions have been made. So if your gauge reads 50 pounds then you are
really making 60-62 pounds of pressure at the main and rods. This is only
if you have restrictors in the block. The factory location of the oil
pressure reading is taking a reading after the oil went through all the
mains and rods. Just thought that to be interesting.  
Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 13:44:49 -0600
From: Tim Roden <tim@maconsys.com>
Subject: Anti lock breaks

I'm new to this list and have recently bought a  95 Cutlass Ciera.  It has 
antilock brakes.  Almost from day one, whenever the wheels get wet the 
anti-lock break light comes on and stays on.  When they dry out, I can turn 
my engine off and the light will not come on again until it gets wet again. 
 In doing some research on the web, I found that it has been a trouble spot 
for this car, but I found no solutions.  I was wondering if anyone on this 
list has found a solution that doesn't involve a couple thousand dollars of 
repair.
Tim Roden
95 Cutlass Ciera

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 09:22:06
From: <sales@mail.submissionservice.com>
Subject: ADV: Web Site Tips - Improve Results

*** We Honor All Remove Requests *** This email complies with all 
state and federal laws. To remove the email address used in this 
email, reply with the word 'remove' in the SUBJECT FIELD. All 
other types of remove requests should be communicated to 
remove@mail.submissionservice.com. Sender is Submission Service, 
5098 Foothills Blvd., #3136 Roseville, CA 95747. No cost to have 
email address removed. 
==================================================


    IMMEDIATELY INCREASE YOUR SITES EXPOSURE

      ***  100% Money Back Guarantee  ***

      We Will Submit Your Web Site To Over 

   900 Search Engines, Directories, & Indices

         For A Cost Of Only $ 14.95 (*)

        http://www.submissionservice.com
                (800) 771-2003


*** Site Hosting Coming Soon, $9.95 Per Month ***


READ THIS TESTIMONIAL

"The day after we received confirmation from you that 
you had submitted our web site to search engines,
directories and indices we got a "Niagra" of hits!
In fact, we doubled and almost tripled our "hits."

And since then we have had a pattern of hits that has
doubled the number of hits we averaged for the same 
period last year.

For this little country inn, you have developed sales
for us we never expected to get."


        http://www.submissionservice.com
                (800) 771-2003

 For Less Than 2 Cents Each We Will Submit Your
 Web Site To Over 900 Of The Net's Hottest Search 
 Engines, Directories & Indices.

 If your site isn't listed in the Search Engines,
 how can people find you to buy your products 
 or services?

 For less than 2 cents each we'll take the work load
 off your back instead of you trying to do it manually
 which can take days to do.

 We're the professionals that are here to help
 you have a successful marketing experience with 
 the internet.

 You know as well as we that your time is
 best utilized managing your business and not
 sitting at some keyboard hours upon hours
 trying to save less than 2 cents for each  
 submission. it's alomst crazy to try to 
 tackle this on your own.  It's just not 
 cost effective to try to do this yourself to
 save just $14.95 or less than 2 cents each.
 
 That's why thousands and thousands of businesses 
 world wide both large and small have come to 
 us to utilize our services.  Hotels, Motels,
 On-Line Stores, Travel Agents, Colleges, 
 Universities, Governments, Fortune 500 companies,
 Movie Studios, Chambers Of Commerce and many,
 many more.  Shouldn't you visit us today?

        http://www.submissionservice.com
                (800) 771-2003

*** Site Hosting Coming Soon, $9.95 Per Month ***

(*) For less than 2 cents each, we will submit 
your site MONTHLY to over 900 search engines, 
directories and indices for a total cost of 
just $14.95 per month. Minimum 12 month term 
required.
 
 
 
 
 
 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 16:35:19 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Signing off for a little

I'll be takin' off work for a week so I'm unsubbin' here. I should be
looking in from a remote location sometime tomorrow maybe. Don't want to
miss any good controversial threads. Gonna try and put 5 hard days into the
Omega. 
Keep them wrenches spinnin'

Omega Man
'74 Omega S 455/auto
'74 Omega 455/4spd (nextyear)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 13:48:32 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Raising engine

- --- Mike Bloomer <mbloomer@mindspring.com> wrote:
  If it's a bit tight,
> pull the 
> header out and put a gradual dimple in the tube with
> a 
> ball peen hammer.  It also helps if you meditate
> first!
==============================

Alright, I'll take your word for it.....but if the
above doesn't work, I'm resorting to the 20LB "ball
peen" hammer and the case of "meditation" called MGD. *LOL*
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 13:57:41 -0700 
From: andrewm@edify.com
Subject: RE: Mondello's new aluminum intakes

I've always wanted to take one of those part magazines (Summit, PAW,
whoever) and start adding up the "bolt-on" horsepower available from
after market parts.

Start with a 300hp engine:
"Bolt-on" 30 hp with an intake!
... another 50 with ram induction!
... another 200 with nitrous!
... another 15 with fel-pro!
... another 200 with a blower!
... another 10 with a hi-po fuel filter!
... another 40 with alum heads!
... another 20 with a flex-fan!
... another 15 with an electric fan!
... another 20 with a hi-po fuel pump!

Alright!  I'm at 900 hp with "simple" upgrades.  Yahoooo!

<snip>
> 
> The prices may seem steep but considering a bolt on part that 
> will make 30-60 HP more I think it is well worth it. 
> So if you got the $$ you can buy an aluminum Mondello 455 
> block, aluminum
> Mondello intake, Edelbrock or Batten aluminum heads. That 
> combination could
> put a race car in the 7's.
> Pettrix@prodigy.net
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 17:24:58 -0400
From: "ken" <swickka@pa.net>
Subject: Re: Headers on a 350, was '68 350 budget power

- ----------
> From: Steve Traynor <dartster@hotmail.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Headers on a 350, was '68 350 budget power
> Date: Monday, May 31, 1999 3:38 PM

I put headers on my 69 Cutlass ... Hedmans
Tight fit, but they fit ... with a little
banging and bending ...

Ken Swick    swicka@pa.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 14:08:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Stormy Weather..... and SOM [long]

> SOM wrote:
> Can a backfire do that to a muffler?
===================================

I know that I am late to this thread, but yes a
backfire can do many things to a muffler. During my
senior year in high school we had to completely tear
apart the ignition on a Chevy 350. That included the
distributer and all. Then we had to put it all back
on, set the dwell, and get graded. Well, a friend of
mine managed to drop the distributer in one cog off.
He hit the ignition key and the loudest explosion I
have ever heard occured. Most of us hit the floor not
knowing what the hell it was! I turned around to see a
muffler with an exhaust hose still on it, laying a
good 40 feet away from the engine! The exhaust came
out the manifolds and Y'd into one pipe and then went
into a muffler. The backfire litterally ripped the
muffler from the weld and sent it across the auto
shop! My friend was still standing there with his hand
on the ignition key and his face redder then a
tomatoe. It was hillarious.

Del
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX And a 1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
1985 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler And a 1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler (For Sale)
1981 John Deer Snowmobile And a 197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
(I like things in pairs! *LOL*)
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 13:58 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: water injection

Thomas Martin wrote:

>Has anyone had any experience with creating your own water injection?
>Does Edelbrock still sell the Varijection?
>It worked well on my Turbo Trans AM, but the vacuum fitting to it 
>broke too easily (plastic).
>
>I would like to revisit this topic on my 350 CCC which needs more 
>timing, but I don't want to run the 93 octane for it....(yeah yeah 
>yeah, cake and eat it too....)
>Anyone?  Anyone?
___________________________________________

While I was still in school I longed for years to buy that Varajection 
for my RoadRunner, but by the time I finally had the money in hand it 
had disappeared from the Edelbrock catalog; I haven't seen it in the 
catalog for a few years now, so I doubt there are any left.

One of David Vizard's books has a section on water injection, he has 
quite a few good things to say about it. He mentions a company called 
"Spearco" which also made/makes water injection systems - I don't know 
if it still exists.

Somewhere I read of a simple home-made system that uses a 
vacuum-triggered switch to turn on a windshield-washer pump when 
manifold vacuum drops below a preset level (say 4" of vacuuum), which 
sprays water through two tiny jets mounted in the air-cleaner lid and 
spraying onto the primary booster venturis of the carb. Something like 
this should be pretty easy to rig up at home.

For a while I've been toying with the idea of combining a MAP 
(manifold absolute pressure) sensor from a junkyard EFI car, an old 
windshield-washer pump, and some electronics to make a simplified 
version of the Varajection - something that would inject water in 
proportion to engine rpm from the distributor tach. signal, and 
manifold vacuum from the MAP sensor.  If I have any success with this 
I'll post a message. It will definitely take some electronics skills 
to do this, but many on the list should have that.

If anyone on the list knows of commercially available water injection 
systems, I would be interested to hear about them, too. I'd love to 
run 9.5:1 CR and still get away with 87 octane cheapo gas on my daily 
driver Supreme......

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 14:10:31 -0700 
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Where to get transmission rebuild video & book?

>Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 12:18:53 -0400
>From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
>Subject: Re: Good Transmission Shops in D.C.--more info

>When I did my TH400 (Jeep Wagoneer) back in '91 it was my first attempt at
>such a thing and I got the video and a book. (Didn't even use the book) The
>video was worth its weight in gold. After I got my parts I had it together
>in about a day. I got a generic cheap rebuild kit from JC Whitney, hence
>the "About" $80 price. Might have been a little more but it was definitly
>less than $100. I also got the B&M shift improver kit from a local parts
>store for like $23 or so. As far as difficult, it wasn't. Just got to be
>careful and double check all your double checks. Take your time and you
>should have great results. The tranny I built back in '91 is still running
>strong and shifting hard today. Actually it shifts too hard. I tore up 3
>quadratrac transfer cases with it so far.

>Omega Man

Omega & friends,
	I've been following this thread with a bit of interest.  I watched
my professor and a few friends in college rebuild transmissions (I was
having my fun with the engines & heads!), but I have not done any more than
service a valve body myself.
	Where did you get the video and book you described?  I'd like to get
one, as ~someday~ I may actually buy a car with an automatic ;)

Thanks!

Steve Reed
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 17:15:27 -0400
From: "jnewell" <jnewell@triton.net>
Subject: Manuals for my OLDS

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE9651.B46CD020
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I have a 1996 Cutlass Supreme SL 3.1 V6. The problem is i have looked in =
every book store in my area but can't find a manual for my car. also any =
info is very uniformative. Also can't find pictures of this car either. =
or a web site. Most site's are 442 or fullsize can some one feed or send =
me any info were do you go to get these items.

Thank You in advance for your Help.

jnewell@triton.net

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE9651.B46CD020
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I have a 1996 Cutlass Supreme SL 3.1 =
V6. The=20
problem is i have looked in every book store in my area but can't find a =
manual=20
for my car. also any info is very uniformative. Also can't find pictures =
of this=20
car either. or a web site. Most site's are 442 or fullsize can some one =
feed or=20
send me any info were do you go to get these items.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Thank You in advance for your =
Help.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>jnewell@triton.net</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0004_01BE9651.B46CD020--

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 15:20:49 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: determining TDC  & a  major ouchie..

John Carri wrote:
> 
> <snip>
> A while ago someone wrote a letter to one of the car mags describing
> what happened to him when he tried to find TDC by putting a finger
> over the spark-plug hole and turning the engine over. His finger was
> *sucked into* the spark plug hole, after which it jammed in there; he
> ended up needing surgical assistance to get it out.
> 
> Now, I don't understand why there was vacuum in the intake cylinder

What is usually the power stroke will suck.  Usually the piston comes up on the
compression stroke, the plug fires, and the piston is pushed down by the
expanding gases.  With your finger over it the pressure pushes out on the
compression stroke and then, when the piston is going down and the valves are
closed, it sucks you in.

> unless this guy had disable the valve train first (the intake valve
> should have been open before the piston even began its downstroke!),

That would be in intake stroke where the valves are open.  On the power stroke
the valves are closed.  At least that's my theory.

> and I guess you'd have to have fairly small fingers for this to be a
> risk to you, 

Try to not be insulting to us "little people" :'0
- -- 

Cliff "Newman" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 17:21:45 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: FASTEST OLDS EVER (was Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy)

I think the 61 to 63 Cutlass would be ungodly fast if a 455 could fit between 
the unibody frame rails....Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 14:15 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: Water Injection 

Edward Binnix wrote:
<long message on homemade water injection snipped>

>It worked. His spark plugs always looked new. His oil stayed much 
>cleaner, and he never had any problem with detonation. He claimed 
>that he got better economy and power, but I'm somewhat skeptical 
>about that. Unless you consider that an internally clean engine 
>"might" make slightly more power and get better fuel economy.
______________________________________________________

Fascinating! Here is an absolutely bare-bones system, doesn't use a 
water pump, doesn't sense vacuum level, and yet it provided measurable 
benefits. Very cool! Thank you very much for that information, Ed!

I've read a few books (including one by David Vizard) that discuss 
water injection, and I remember reading that for maximum detonation 
control you actually did inject a fine stream of water into the 
engine, but only when it was running near WOT - i.e., with very little 
intake manifold vacuum. The water would be evaporated by the heat of 
combustion in the cylinder, so no hydro-locking problems.  David 
Vizard says that you won't get any improvement in fuel economy by 
adding water injection to an existing engine, but if you instead 
designed your engine to take advantage of the water injection by 
raising the CR, you would indeed get better mileage while still being 
able to run on pump gas. As for power gains, he says that if your 
gasoline's low octane is limiting the amount of ignition advance you 
can run to less than what your engine wants, then water injection will 
permit you to run more ignition timing, and that in turn will give you 
more horsepower and torque.

He also says that if you run a high enough octane fuel instead of 
water injection, you will make more power than a combination of 
low-octane fuel and water injection (makes sense since water doesn't 
contribute to the "bang"). So you won't beat any racing records by 
adding water injection, but it lets you compromise on the street by 
saving money with low-octane gas and still getting much of the 
performance gains from high CR and proper ignition advance. Sounds 
great for a daily driver like my '72 Supreme.....

- -John "where can I find a mason jar and a football needle?" Carri
(sorry for stealing your idea, Cliff!)

'72 Supreme
'73 340 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 14:23 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: Hypothetical Cold Air Induction System

Stefan Gadecki wrote:

> Hmmm, would it be possible to somehow connect an aftermarket 
>electric AC system to the intake?  I've seen aftermarket AC systems 
>that fit under the dash, maybe one of these can be set up to blow 
>cold air into the carb?  I wonder what effect this would have on 
>performance? Anybody have any ideas?
________________________________________

There's no doubt that cold air will give your more torque and power, 
after I put my homemade OAI setup in my '72 Supreme it was definitely 
more throttle-responsive, and the most amazing part was that my mpg 
jumped by almost 2 points!  The engine was making more power at the 
same throttle setting as before, hence was using a smaller throttle 
opening to cruise at the same speed as before, hence was using less 
gas than before......

As to the electric AC system idea, I suspect that when all the 
mechanical inefficiencies and thermal inefficiencies are added up, the 
AC unit will suck more horsepower from the engine to drive itself than 
it will give back by way of cold air.

On the other hand, ice on the intake manifold is an old drag-racing 
trick.  This way the energy needed to cool that water into ice came 
from some other source than your engine.......

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 17:37:14 -0400 (EDT)
From: GMcNeil@webtv.net (Gregory McNeil)
Subject: Edelbrock carb tuning

Hello,out there!
I recently installed an Edelbrock carb on my Cutlass and have a tuning
question.I was wondering how to properly adjust the idle mixture
screws.I was told adjust one screw at a time to obtain max rpm,then
adjust the idle speed screw to lower the rpms down to the proper
range.Is this correct? When I tried to do is,I had very little to no
change in rpm,whether I backed the screw out a quarter turn or five
turns.The way it was described to me,I expected a quite noticable change
in rpm. 
Anybody have any advice or experience with these carbs?
Thanks!
Greg
'70 Cutlass Supreme SX

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 14:30 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: O2 into the carb (was hypothetical cold air induction)

>has anyone ever tried running a small amount of pure O2
>into the carb?  I assume that a modified NOS system would work.
___________________________________________________________

I used to wonder the same thing, after all everything burns hotter in 
O2 than in air, right?

Well, it turns out that gasoline in oxygen burns much TOO hot, 
essentially it will act like a cutting torch, burning holes through 
your piston tops. This is similar to what happens when you run N2O and 
something causes insufficient fuel to flow - lean flames are intensely 
hot, and pop goes your weasel, sorry, engine.

The inert, non-burning nitrogen in N2O actually serves a useful 
purpose by keeping the temperature of the flame from going too high 
for the engines continued good health.

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 16:51:44 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: determining TDC  & a  major ouchie..

Really need a hard stop procedure. Braze a short extension to an old spark
plug, bar it over to stop against extension, mark dampener, (careful here,
if you are a person of unusual strength, easy does it, could make a hole in
the piston or break off extension and it falls inside of cyn), use a degree
wheel or accurate flex measuring tape, reverse 180 degrees and mark
dampener again, divide the distance or the degrees and that is real TDC.
Found most stock dampeners to be off several degrees.
Lou
- ----------
> From: John Carri <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: determining TDC  & a  major ouchie..
> Date: Thursday, June 03, 1999 6:00 AM
> 
> >Bring #1 cyl up to TDC and mark the balancer by the timing pointer.
> >Determine TDC by pulling the plug and cranking it over until you
> >feel the piston push your finger off of the plug hole.  Continue 
> >rotating as you use a small probe to feel the top of the piston.  

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 17:55:33 EDT
From: GregA80@aol.com
Subject: Re: Goo Be Gone

Ya know, I just heard this the other day.....Try use EZ-OFF, you know, the 
oven cleaner....It supposedly works great, and it doesn't hurt the 
paint....My uncle just bought a truck and that's what the previous owner used 
to take his company name off the doors....if you do use it, let me know how 
it works...thanks.
~Greg the young'n

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 16:58:25 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: general info

All;

New to me. Auto Zone has service manuals on CDs at the front counter.
Popular Mechanics produced. Interesting but have never seen or used one
before.

Lou (Master) Biggs
lbiggs@intertek.net
oca#31353

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 17:02:58 -0500
From: "Lou Biggs" <lbiggs@intertek.net>
Subject: Re: Goo Be Gone

Greg;
Guy at work used it to get lettering off several vans of ours, worked
great, always scares the hell out of me to try it.
Fraidy cat, Lou

- ----------
> From: GregA80@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Goo Be Gone
> Date: Thursday, June 03, 1999 4:55 PM
> 
> Ya know, I just heard this the other day.....Try use EZ-OFF, you know,
the 
> oven cleaner....It supposedly works great, and it doesn't hurt the 
> paint....My uncle just bought a truck and that's what the previous owner
used 
> to take his company name off the doors....if you do use it, let me know
how 
> it works...thanks.
> ~Greg the young'n

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 18:04:54 EDT
From: GregA80@aol.com
Subject: Distributor Question

Hey everyone....I was just looking through JEGs at distributors, and I 
noticed that dual point distributors are LESS expensive than all the 
others....aren't dual points supposedly better?  Comments/questions?
~Greg

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 16:06:55 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: O2 into the carb (was hypothetical cold air induction)

John Carri wrote:
>
> <snip>
> Well, it turns out that gasoline in oxygen burns much TOO hot,
> essentially it will act like a cutting torch, burning holes through
> your piston tops. This is similar to what happens when you run N2O and
> something causes insufficient fuel to flow - lean flames are intensely
> hot, and pop goes your weasel, sorry, engine.
> 
> The inert, non-burning nitrogen in N2O actually serves a useful
> purpose by keeping the temperature of the flame from going too high
> for the engines continued good health.

You are right, of course, the extra oxygen would oxidize (burn) the iron.  I
wasn't really thinking it out.  Just as running hot with no exhaust will allow
oxygenated air to burn the exhaust valves, adding more oxygen to the air would
burn pistons and valves.

George also explained to me how N2O breaks apart under high pressure to allow
the Oxygen to participate in the combustion.  NOS's web site added the insight
that as it boils the temperature of the nitrous is reduced to a minus .127
Degrees F.  This cooling reduces intake charge temperatures by approximately
60-75 Degrees F.  

They also state that "A general rule of thumb: For every 10 Degrees F.
reduction in intake charge temperature, a 1% increase in power will be
realized.  Example: A 350 HP engine with an intake temperature drop of 70
Degrees F, would gain approximately 25 HP on the cooling affect alone."  This
gets back to the original question about using A/C to cool the incoming air.

Thanks everyone for the insights, I guess Gramps gets to keep his Oxygen for
another day,
- -- 

Cliff "Dangerous around flammables" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 15:08:15 PDT
From: Andrew C.Green <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 87 Custom Cruiser, Durable car?

>If I could find one in decent shape I'd buy it.

Well, the Station Wagon website now has a For Sale section. Check out

http://www.stationwagon.com/list.html

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 18:26:01 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: safety first

Hi list.

    I would like to add some extra saftey to my 71 442.  Is it possible to
place a more modern seat belt system in this car?   I want to make the
shoulder and lap harness into one piece.  I know of several old Camaros in
the bone yard.  Will the seat belt system from one them work?  I have also
thought of placing two seat belt receiver heads on one bolt.  That way I can
fasten both the lap and shoulder harness.   Do you think that will place too
much load on the bolt in the event of a crash?  Has anyone tried this
before?  Thanks-----
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 03 Jun 1999 17:21:18 CDT
From: Steve Traynor <dartster@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: FASTEST OLDS EVER (was Re: Oooooh! Me! was: Wanna Buy)

 >In a message dated 06/03/1999 2:29:29 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
 >ggilpin@wrallp.com writes:
 >
 ><< Maybe by 200-300lbs at best. A loaded 74 Omega with a 455 and a full 
tank
 > of gas will weigh in about 3,100-3,200 lbs dripping wet. They are pretty
 > light. Starfires should weigh in the 2,800 - 3,000 lb area. The Omega is 
a
 > much better looking car though. Definitly a tougher ride! Bigger muscles.
 >
 > Omega Man >>
- ------
Monza's are not light. I've owned one. Dang thing weighed near 3200 lbs with 
a 4 banger with a 4 on the floor. I called it the bloatmobile. Was a fun 
car, but it would burn up fuel pumps every 3000 miles...<mutters> That 
wouldn't have been so bad if I didn't have to pull the fuel tank to get to 
the dang thing. I think I went through 4 of em in less than 6 months. Ended 
up ditching the car on the side of the road right before I came to texas 
cause the pump died yet again.




Steve
1970 Cutlass S Hardtop
Garland, TX
ICQ# 108901, Use "Olds list" as Request for Authorization

Favorite motivational line, seen at a Renassaince Faire: "The beatings will 
continue until morale is up!"




_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 16:29:13 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Straight 50 Weight Oil

I
> have heard that you will make 10-15 pounds more pressure than with 20W-50.

I went from 10W-30 to 20W-50 and the oil pressure went up about 5-8 psi.  It
runs 30 in Drive at hot idle, about 45-50 at light throttle and slow speed
and over 60 psi at WOT.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 17:38:20 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Tranny coolers...go - or no-go

><< Interesting, my tranny guy said the opposite, he claims that the water
in
>the
> rad initially warms up the tranny fluid and that the fluid should not be
too
> cold.
<snip>
> This also maybe related to the -40 degree the winters up here :0
>
> Cliff "What's good for the goose makes the gander sore" Simpson >>
>
> -40? whats that : ) We're lucky to get below freezing. : ) Thats
>actually what the tranny guy told me too..I forgot we had such a large
>geographic following on the list. He said it doesn't get cold enough HERE
to
>worry about it.

From everything I ever read the most important thing is to warm
up the ATF quickly and keep it at a stable temp.  This is for wear
and longevity concerns but also good for consistency in bracket
racing.  As such, you should route the fluid through the cooler and
then through the radiator.  Keep in mind that the ATF will not go back
into the trans the same temp as the engine because it is running
through the rad on the side where the coolant has already been
cooled.  You will also loose a little temp as the fluid travels through
the lines back to the trans.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 17:38:21 -0500 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas.Martin@motorola.com>
Subject: RE: posi question...

All 403 powered Trans AM's came with 2.56 gears.  If there was a trailer
option you MAY be lucky enough to get 3.23's.  The Pontiac 400's came with
3.23's only.

High Performance Pontiac Magazine had an article covering all the T/A's.  1
year per month.

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 17:44:17 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Buying a set of mags. Who's got the good prices?

>I have decided to buy myself a set of American Racing Torq Thrust-D
>wheels for father's day ;-). See 'em at
><http://www.americanracing.com/wheelinfo/specs.asp?model=TORQ-THRUST>.
>
>List price from the americanracing.com site is $206.00 each for 15X7. I
>have a quote from preformance-tire.com at $165.00 each.
>
>Does anybody know of a site with a better price?

That's probably the best price you'll find since I checked Summit and Jegs
and
they're both in the $170 range.  Maybe if you hit the swap meets.......

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 17:43:17 -0500 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas.Martin@motorola.com>
Subject: Re: 160 deg VS. 180 deg

My 85 Cutlass with a 77 350 and the ECM still working, runs very well on the
160 thermostat.  I was concerned that the ECM would not go into closed loop
with a 160, but it seems to work just fine.  

My 80 Trans AM with a 70 Pontiac 455 made more hp with a 180 than the 160.
Temp was maintained very well with a 180 also.  All I can say is 4700 rpm
comes up real fast in high gear even at 6000 feet!  (3.08 gears, 30 in tall
tires, you do the math....:), and no, the guy the 91 Rustang GT never stood
a chance!!  

Engines tend to like some temps better than others.  Pontiac's in general
like 180's, again, each application needs it to be evaluated with some
controlled conditions like 40-70 2nd gear acceleration, and do a series of 3
or 4 runs, then change stat, and do it again, see if it improves or
degrades.


Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 17:46:13 -0500 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas.Martin@motorola.com>
Subject: Re:Snake oils and other engine voodoos

I like to make it simple. 

Read the owner's manual, does Olds say you SHOULD use it?	No
Does Olds recommend you use it?					No
Does it void your warranty?	(Call Olds and ask them!)	Yes
Will I use it?								
No

Some argue that the factory will void warranty if you use it because it
works.  In the quest for 100,000 mile engines, if it REALLY worked, they
would not condone it, they would put it in factory!  Most people who claim
left and right that it works have never opened up the engine after 100K
miles, they sell the car first.  ANY car today will make it to 100K miles,
even a Yugo!  Why waste money on snake oils, when you can spend the money on
a high flow air filter, or use synthetic oil and extend you drain intervals
and save money!!!

For the record, I have used a few, I used Rislone in my father's 79 gas
Rabbit, did quiet it down a lot, and it was a 2500-3000 mile oil change car.
It was never abused, always had excellent maintenance.  And Rislone did
quiet the OHC cam down some, we later adjusted the valves (VW did) and that
was the best thing, engine made more power.  I tried Slick 50, made no
difference at all, STP works great to thicken the oil, it is just Viscosity
Index Improver anyway.  So that 5W30 you have is probably now 10W30, that is
about all.  Pretty hard to justify something that costs $20 a quart and
SUPPOSEDLY fights wear when you have zero data to prove it.  

Rislone and Restore are different additives, no claims like the Teflon boys.

Still, the above chart is best.  I agree, the ATF trick works well.  I hope
to never use it again....

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 3 Jun 1999 17:46:22 -0500 
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas.Martin@motorola.com>
Subject: Re: ATF?

I have used a whole crankcase full of ATF to clean.  I got lazy and did not
change my Amsoil 10W30 for 46K miles, and it started finally to sludge up
(try that with anything else!).  Ran a crankcase full of plain jane
petroleum ATF and new AC Filter for a few hours, light easy driving, and
then changed to fresh Amsoil 10W30 and filter, all is spotlessly clean
again.  

Works for me!

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1996
*********************************

