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cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1973


oldsmobile-digest        Sunday, May 23 1999        Volume 01 : Number 1973



WENT Drag Racing for the first time
UNBOUNCE: H*lp needed to stop pinging!
UNBOUNCE: H*lp Smoke
UNBOUNCE: Manual Cutlass
Re: WENT Drag Racing for the first time
Re: Need carb rebuild hints
Date:	Sat, 22 May 1999 08:50:38 -0400
Re: 350 rocket defined
Re: window cleaner
GTOMAN???
Re: adjusting rally pac tach
Re: GTOMAN???
Re: WENT Drag Racing for the first time
Re: WENT Drag Racing for the first time
1955 Front Suspension
Re: Carbs again...
Re: GTOMAN???
gages, RAP
special request for older info
1111045 dist: app'n?
1111450 dist - II
Re: WENT Drag Racing for the first time
Re: Plate Stickers
68-69 442 & W-30 parts
Special Request
R134a conversion:  Swapping to a larger condenser?
302=>304, etc.
Re:302=>304 etc
More items available
Re: UNBOUNCE: H*lp needed to stop pinging!
350(?) ID please
Re: Plate Stickers
455 WP pulley guy
Smaller main pully
Re: WENT Drag Racing for the first time
subscribe oldsmobile
Desperately seeking TH400 shifter cable bracket
Re: WENT Drag Racing for the first time
Re: WENT Drag Racing for the first time
Re: GTOMAN???
Re: 1111450 dist: app'n?
Re: 350(?) ID please
Re: More items available
Re: WENT Drag Racing for the first time
Re: WENT Drag Racing for the first time
Re: Bumper question
Re: Quincy's Pending Compleation.
77 wont start
Re: 77 wont start

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 01:37:14 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: WENT Drag Racing for the first time

FINALLY.  I just got back from the local track tonight.  It was my first
time ever on the track and the first time with my Delta.  I had tons of fun
and am left more confused then I was before but that is something to work
on.  It was straight up racing tonight called secret street.  The car ran
well, although it did not perform admirably but I am relatively happy and
can't wait to go back there again and see if I can improve some number.  The
biggest problem was TRACTION.  I can't believe how much worst it is on track
then on the street.  My very first run (funny one at that) I tried to ease
into it and had the tires on fire in first, second and even 1 second in
third gear before they finally hooked up.  I even had the tach hit 6700 RPM
(Opps) in first gear as the stupid tire peel caught me off guard.  Anyhow,
the rest of the race I had terrible 60 foot times, not that great reaction
time and of course, very light throttle in first gear.  These are the times
I got:

Race City, Calgary, AB, ALT 3500 feet:

Run:
1)    16.974    76.17 MPH (traction)
2)    16.557    90.00 MPH (a little better)
3)    15.303    91.55 MPH
4)    15.104    92.35 MPH
5)    15.002    92.46 MPH
and so on, total 9 runs, run 5 best run, other around 15.1 or so.

The car is slower then I thought but it can hit 14s with the same set-up as
now only with minor tuning and driving adjustment.  I never intended to take
it to race city, but I am a guy and stuff happends.  It had a full tank of
Regular gas so my timing advance is pretty conservative.  Next time, $15
worth of Supreeme with more timing, battery in trunk and a few other
possible things for traction.  I got whooped every single time out of the
hole even by 19 second cars.  I raced a GN with intercooler, headers, chip,
K&N, and beat him about 2 car lengths.  Second pass, even although he got me
about two car length at start (and he peeled like nuts too). I caught him
from 2nd gear on.  Raced a 5.0 and beat it by a couple car lengths.  Raced
another 5.0 and got beat off the line by 1.5 car lengths and could not catch
him (he hooked well on street tires).  Our MPH was the same though, and he
went 14.514.  From gear 2 on, we were dead even, only he was ahead from the
starting point.  My reaction times were in the 1.2 range (I know, suck) and
my best 60 foot time was 2.57.  Beat a couple of Chevy 355s big time (but I
do have a BB so that is okay).  Was a lot of fun, just don't have a clue how
I will hook up.  If I could stall the converter and launch, that would be
the day. Except for the first one, I did not got WOT untill second gear, and
that is a big waste.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 07:36:01 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: H*lp needed to stop pinging!

Can't use the "H*LP" word...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Ctls350rkt@aol.com
Subject: H*lp needed to stop pinging!

Hello all, I'm having a slight problem on my 77 Cutlass Supreme.  I bought it 
about a month ago so i'm still learning the car.  This car has 157,000 miles 
on it and still has every original gasket.  That's a perfect example to 
Oldsmobile quality.
Engine is running great, but a slight problem.  When i got the car the timing 
and idle was way off, so i reset it to what the emissions label said.  Well i 
had a bit of pinging before, but now on 87 i could barely touch the gas and 
it would ping.  With 89 i could open the throttle till the secondaries 
opened, then pinging.  Now i have to keep 93 in there all the time to keep it 
from pinging.  I don't mind spending the money on the premium, but isn't it a 
waste of money to put in 93 if the car isn't made for it?  
I'm going to keep premium in it till it stops pinging with 87, unless it's 
designed to run on 93.  I'd rather spend the extra 20 cents per gallon now 
than the time and money on a rebuild later.
I've put on new plugs, wires, dis. cap and rotor, checked the egr, pcv, all 
vacuum likes, and like triple checked the timing to make sure that it's at 20 
degrees BTDC at 1100 RPM.  The only things left i can think of is; carb needs 
to be rebuilt, carbon build up, or jumped timing chain.  Any other thoughts?
Sorry the e-mail's so long, just concerned about my new baby.  Don't want to 
damage her so soon.  Hope to hear from ya'll Oldsmobile Pros.  TIA

- -Jon

"Catapultam habeo. Nisi pecuniam omnem mihi dabis ad capul tuum saxum immane 
mittam. (Translation: I have a catapult. Give me all the money or I will 
fling an enormous rock at your head.)"
"What did the fish say when he hit a concrete wall?  "Dam!"

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 07:37:32 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: H*lp Smoke

Same problem, no "H*LP" word please...

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Meyer, Erich" <EMeyer@mdsctl.com>
Subject: H*lp Smoke

	Hello list I need some h*lp.
	Last week I was on the way home in my 84 H/O with a three week old
rebuild Olds 350 (mild rebuild). I was on the highway doing around 130-140
Km. I noticed a cloud of white thick smoke coming from my rear (two lanes
wide and about 1 km long). I pulled over and shut the motor down. I waited
for it too cool off and inspected everything. I was low on water and assumed
I blow a head gasket, but no water in the oil. I then looked under the car
and noticed an oil like fluid from the tranny back. I drove home p/o but had
to get home and didn't care if the motor went because it was only a few
weeks old and had warranty on it.
	When I got close to home you could hear a loud knock like a spun
bearing or demmoed lifter. I then had the company that did the motor work
for me come out twice to inspect the motor. On the second time we took off
the rocker covers to find that the pass side push rods were done, they had a
lip on all of them from rubbing don't know how or why. We flipped them over
to see if this fixed the noise. This did not work. I was told it could be my
torque converter because the noise sounds similar to a converter that has
been demmoed. They said to unbolt torque converter and push it back to see
if the sound goes away. I will do this today but I still wont have a car
this weekend. Does anyone out there have any other ideas on what this could
be or is the shop just blowing smoke? 

	 
	Erich 84 H/O

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 07:39:45 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Manual Cutlass

Thought Ryan was on the list, but this bounced. Respond to
curmm@mail.pen.eiu.edu

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Ryan McFarland" <curmm@mail.pen.eiu.edu>
Subject: Manual Cutlass

I have a 1988 Cutlass Supreme International Series with a 5 speed manual =
transmission.  I have been told by many that this is a rare car and I =
was curious to find out just how many of this type of car was made.

Ryan McFarland

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 07:46:19 -0400
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: Re: WENT Drag Racing for the first time

At the B O P nationals in orlando ,there was a 1978  88  pulling his front
wheels and running in the 11s . It takes a lot to make a heavy car hook up, and
strong parts.  Butch

Igor Todorovic wrote:

> FINALLY.  I just got back from the local track tonight.
>
> Run:
> 1)    16.974    76.17 MPH (traction)
> 2)    16.557    90.00 MPH (a little better)
> 3)    15.303    91.55 MPH
> 4)    15.104    92.35 MPH
> 5)    15.002    92.46 MPH
> and so on, total 9 runs, run 5 best run, other around 15.1 or so.
>
> The car is slower then I thought but it can hit 14s with the same set-up as
> now only with minor tuning and driving adjustment.  I never intended to take
> it to race city, but I am a guy and stuff happends.  It had a full tank of
> Regular gas so my timing advance is pretty conservative.  Next time, $15
> worth of Supreeme with more timing, battery in trunk and a few other
> possible things for traction.  I got whooped every single time out of the
> hole even by 19 second cars.  I raced a GN with intercooler, headers, chip,
> K&N, and beat him about 2 car lengths.  Second pass, even although he got me
> about two car length at start (and he peeled like nuts too). I caught him
> from 2nd gear on.  Raced a 5.0 and beat it by a couple car lengths.  Raced
> another 5.0 and got beat off the line by 1.5 car lengths and could not catch
> him (he hooked well on street tires).  Our MPH was the same though, and he
> went 14.514.  From gear 2 on, we were dead even, only he was ahead from the
> starting point.  My reaction times were in the 1.2 range (I know, suck) and
> my best 60 foot time was 2.57.  Beat a couple of Chevy 355s big time (but I
> do have a BB so that is okay).  Was a lot of fun, just don't have a clue how
> I will hook up.  If I could stall the converter and launch, that would be
> the day. Except for the first one, I did not got WOT untill second gear, and
> that is a big waste.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 05:50:11 -0700
From: tarzan@foxinternet.net
Subject: Re: Need carb rebuild hints

hi,
there is a q-jet book out there,the authors name is doug roe. it is worth he
$12.00 for sure.DAN

J&T wrote:

> I'm going to attempt a rebuild on my carb, 70 quadrajet. If anyone has
> any helpful hints on what to do or not to do, I would greatly appreciate
> it.
>                                                  Thanks,
>                                                     Joe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 08:50:38 -0400
From: "Andrew Martin" <jmartin@csource.net>
Subject: Date:	Sat, 22 May 1999 08:50:38 -0400

	I have a 65 442 olds and need to find out what the timing should be set
at.

	I could also use info on the distance the carb. floats should be set 
at.

	The motor is 400 cu. in. . The carb is roch. 4 jet.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 08:06:35 CDT
From: "Steve Traynor" <dartster@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 350 rocket defined

That's ok, my '70 Golden Rocket..bone stock except for the carb, will trash 
anything just cause of the gold paint! Even with the rods 
knocking...hmm..and the no idle below 2,000 rpm...err...needing new plugs 
and wires....<really thinkin hard now>...oh, and a new 
distributor...<mutters something about too darn much work..>

Steve
aka the Dartster
also known as the Humorus One

'70 Cutlass S Hardtop

- ----------
Chris Brown Witt wrote:
 >
 >
 > In seriousness, the term "Rocket" was used over many years, starting in
 > 1949, on many motors. The '73 350 carried a "Rocket 350" AC Label, but 
can
 > hardly
 > be compared to even the lowliest of the '67 330 motors with their 9:1
 > compression.

HEY! I resent that remark!!! I know that my 73 350 will be able to stomp
on a few Chevys when I break her out! Of course, it's not bone stock
anymore. :-) It has 70 heads, crank, and a little itty bitty help from
Comp Cams.... :-)

- --
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
*************************
http://drive.to/73cutlass
- -----------------------
'73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
'70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
'75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
*************************


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 09:11:03 -0400
From: Mike Rothe <hurstolds@duesouth.net>
Subject: Re: window cleaner

> >After reading all of the wax comments, it made me think of cleaning car
> >windows. What can I use to clean the containment's off of glass.
>
> Ummm.....Windex?

My 2.2 cents on this....

Don't waste money on Windex.  If that's what you have great, but something
that does JUST as good a job for a whole lot less is, believe it or not,
K-mart brand window cleaner.   I learned this while reading Consumer Reports
about 10 years ago.  I found it hard to believe, but for 96 cents at the
time, took their advice and I was very impressed.  I personally tried it and
it works just as good if not better.  Hardly any streaking.  Economical at
least.

If you're REALLY tight on a budget, then an ounce of household ammonia (what
is this stuff, like 25 cents/pint?) in a gallon of water works extremely
well.  Virtually streak free.  With this, I use old newspaper to wipe with,
although a drawback is newsprint on your hands....

One of the things you can also do is use 000 grade steel wool (or extremely
fine).  BE VERY CAREFUL not to get this next to paint however.  First clean
the window normally, then use the wool.  It removes water stains and mineral
deposits fairly easily and doesn't ruin the glass.  This stuff also works on
stainless and chrome too.  As with most things, moderation is key.  Don't go
spastic.

I prefer, although a lot more expensive, is the professional window cleaning
foam.  Any glass shop sells it, and it's VERY VERY good for cleaning just
about any glass surface.

Mike Rothe

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 08:11:32 -0500 (CDT)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Dr. Olds - K. Wood)
Subject: GTOMAN???

Just wondering if anybody on this list has dealt
with a guy with the email address of gtoman@...... He sells stuff on
442.com regularly.  I have arranged to purchase a 3.42  12 bolt rearend
that he has listed on 5-20.  Just
curious if anybody has had any dealings with
him be it good or bad.  Thanks for any help!

Enjoy your weekend.

Kevin D. Wood
Dr-Olds@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 09:15:59 -0400
From: Kurt Heinrich <old442@erols.com>
Subject: Re: adjusting rally pac tach

Mike McLeod wrote:

> Has anyone on the list ever used the calibration screw on the back of the
> tac  for adjustment purposes? How did it work out? Can you tell me how you
> did it? My tac is way off in my W-30. Even after calibration, if it is not
> 100% accurate I would still like to have it close. Thanks
>
> Michael McLeod
> 70 W-30
> 97 Aurora

Checkout the FAQ.  There is a section in there just for this.
BTW, nice selection of cars ;-)


- --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
71 442         (see it at http://www.442.com/heinrich.html)
95 Aurora
OCA# 30442

*****************************************************
* visit my home page at http://www.erols.com/old442 *
*****************************************************

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 09:42:25 -0400
From: "Randy Geisel" <Rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: GTOMAN???

> Just wondering if anybody on this list has dealt  with a guy with the
email address of gtoman@......

Kevin,

I bought an 8-track player (for the case) from him for my H/O. He said the
player worked, the case was black with no cracks except for the front piece
(easily replaced with my good piece). NOT!!!!

The case is beige and has a big hole in the bottom. There is red mud
(clay)caked inside the player and the case. $60 shot to h---.

Be careful.

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 09:48:49 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: WENT Drag Racing for the first time

>At the B O P nationals in orlando ,there was a 1978  88  pulling his front
>wheels and running in the 11s . It takes a lot to make a heavy car hook up,
and

>strong parts.  Butch


There's one on the cover of April's JWO too - 11.7 @ 110 mph. With a 403.
A Delta with wheels in the air. A beautiful thing.

Look at it this way, Igor - you're still faster than stock 86 442's.

Just need TIRES.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 10:55:47 -0400
From: Nikolaj Richers <nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca>
Subject: Re: WENT Drag Racing for the first time

> FINALLY.  I just got back from the local track tonight.  [snip]  The car ran
> well, although it did not perform admirably but I am relatively happy and
> can't wait to go back there again and see if I can improve some number.
> The
> biggest problem was TRACTION.

Igor,

Apart from tires, my feeling is that your stiffer rear springs are
preventing weight transfer onto your rear wheels. 

You know, I talk to my '85 Delta 88 about your car, and the promises of
the future... And the Big Beautiful B-Body Boat smiles. ;-) 

	Nikolaj

- -- 
Nikolaj Richers, Toronto, Canada;  webmaster, www.designdom.com
nrichers@designdom.com, nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca, webmaster@designdom.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 11:31:28 -0400
From: Kathy & Jim Irwin <knjirwin@tir.com>
Subject: 1955 Front Suspension

I purchased a front lower control arm outer pivot kit for my car.  The
listing showed application for '39-56.  The kit is too large in
diameter.  It is approximately .125" too big.  I contacted the part
supplier and they are not aware of anything unique to the '55.  The hex
on the bushing as well as the hex on the threaded shaft are larger than
my original part.  Therfore, I don't believe it is a matter of the
replacement part simply being out of tolerance.

I have not had the car long enough to locate an OEM part book so I don't
know what the facatory applications show.

Any idea or help???

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 12:23:24 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Carbs again...

Blaine,
Nothing really "better" about the 442 Q-jets.  They were simply calibrated
differently to suit the particular engine.  The removal of the primary metering
rods on the carbs for the '70 W-30 and W-31s, for example,  was necessitated
mostly by the low idle manifold vacuum from the big cams these models used.
Hard to say that's better since the metering rods provide a more accurate
air/fuel ratio under varying load conditions.
 There might be a slight performance advantage to the 442 carb over the 98 if 
it
provides a slightly richer mixture under load - you'll get about 4% more power
at a 13:1 air/fuel ratio than at 14.7:1.  Those differences can be achieved 
with
metering rod changes.

Dude

"Blaine S." wrote:

> I noticed that some of you were saying that the carbs that came on 442's
> were better than those on regular ol' 455's.  Is that really true?  What's
> the difference?  Because I have a good carb off a '68 442, and the carb that
> came stock on my '69 98 455 motor.  Would the '68 442 carb give me better
> performance than the '69 98 455 carb?
>
> Thanks,
> Blaine

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 12:25:40 -0400
From: Mark Hahn <mahahn@fuse.net>
Subject: Re: GTOMAN???

> > Just wondering if anybody on this list has dealt  with a guy with the
> email address of gtoman@......
>
> Kevin,
>
> I bought an 8-track player (for the case) from him for my H/O. He said the
> player worked, the case was black with no cracks except for the front piece
> (easily replaced with my good piece). NOT!!!!
>
> The case is beige and has a big hole in the bottom. There is red mud
> (clay)caked inside the player and the case. $60 shot to h---.
>
> Be careful.
>
> Randy

I had no problems with the guy. Although I did deal with him in person, face to
face. Got 2 doors for the Delta and I am a happy camper.

Mark Hahn
75 Delta 88 Royale Convertible
Cincinnati, Ohio

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 13:52:27 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: gages, RAP

Subject: Re: Guage (gage) pacs

>Some trivia here, the chassis manuals refer to them as gages,
>not guages. I wonder if there was some debate about that spelling.

Seeing as the correct spelling is "gauges," perhaps they were
on to something.
- ---RS:
..."Gage", definition #3, "var of gauge"...
so, not only is gUAge incorrect... gage is listed as an accepted vaiation
of gauge. Webster's New Collegiate Dictionary, 1973 version. Looks like
the only GUA... words that don't sound like "gwa..." are "guarantee" &
derivatives, and "guard" & derivatives.
...Being a big fan of simple spelling like it sounds, I'll stick with
the officially acceptable "gage". Now, as for "tork"...
=========================
MEMBERS NEEDED!!!
RESPOND DIRECTLY TO mailto:old442@erols.com

It's been almost 2 months since my article in JWO calling for volunteers
for the Roadside Assistance Program, and I only have 22 names on the
list.  This is extremely poor considering the thousands of OCA member.
I've also noticed that not a single person on the Olds list
or Toro list have signed up.

If any of you are active in your local chapters, please
let me know directly.

So far Ohio is leading with 3 members, and CA, GA, NV,
UT and TX are tied with 2 members each.

- - --
Kurt Heinrich  (mailto:old442@erols.com)
- ------
Count me in, I have tools, wrecker [sort of], etc. -RS-
========================


- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 14:01:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: special request for older info

I suffered a big computer crash 12/99, literally. Shelf that holds CPU fell
down, damaged hard drive. ALMOST had it rescuable, but wife woke up early and
responded YES to error message "do you want to reformat the HD..." Sheeesh.

so... BACK UP YOUR STUFF folks, we were within days of buying a new HD and were
to use the old one for backup. Lost pretty much all RS stuff, tech articles,
lists of items available, etc. Lost all 1997 contacts in similar crash of
12/97. No web access since then either. :-( No www.442.com...

and... if anyone has any of my earlier postings such as especially the list of
CARBS available NOS and rebuilt, it'd save me a LOT it hassle getting those #'s
again. Anthing I posted as available way back when, send it this way. Thanks.

- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 14:03:59 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 1111045 dist: app'n?

Found an 1111450 7G20 or so dist'r.
Date code says 1967, right? does not look like '57, can't be '77 it's not HEI.
I cannot find 1111450 listed in the '67 CSM, they all have -0xx numbers in '67.

Can anyone identify this dist's app'n?


- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 14:05:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 1111450 dist - II

As THIS subject states correctly, it's a -450 dist'r, not -045!

> Found an 1111450 7G20 or so dist'r.
> Date code says 1967, right? does not look like '57, can't be '77 it's not 
HEI.
> I cannot find 1111450 listed in the '67 CSM, they all have -0xx numbers in 
'67
>
> Can anyone identify this dist's app'n?

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 12:11:50 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: WENT Drag Racing for the first time

> Igor,
>
> Apart from tires, my feeling is that your stiffer rear springs are
> preventing weight transfer onto your rear wheels.

Well, it is something to do with traction.  I am sure that my rear
suspension is not set up well for traction purposes.  I have to do something
about that.  If I could find a set of really weak old springs that would be
great.  I could put those in just prior to going to the track.  My air
shocks are a bit of a problem as well, although I ran them fully pumped out.
Also, what about tire pressure in the Radial T/As.  I even tried a burnout,
but it made no difference at all.  Battery in the trunk might make a bit of
a difference and I will try a few more things.  Definitely timing advance to
up my MPH and maybe even a new cam.  I would love to run headers, but no
such luck.  My cam runs out of steam at 4000 RPM and that is where I pass
the traps.  Well, it runs out of steam at 3000 RPM and really runs out at
4000 RPM.  This is where real fun begins.

> You know, I talk to my '85 Delta 88 about your car, and the promises of
> the future... And the Big Beautiful B-Body Boat smiles. ;-)

I am sure that it will go a bit faster then now.  What about those traction
compounds that you put on a tire.  Do they work and for how long.   This big
car is also running 3.23s.  What if I got 3.73s.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 14:26:35 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: Plate Stickers

Here in NY we register our cars every 2 years. Renewal fees are based on
class of vehicle and weight I believe. We have no plate sticker but get a
windshield sticker. Quincy cost me $67 to register for 2 years. The vanity
plates were a one time extra fee of $37 I believe. We do need to have yearly
vehicle safety inspections that in my county don't include emissions testing
yet. This is a second sticker to be placed next to the registration sticker
on the drivers side bottom of the windshield.  Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 13:21:00 -0700
From: BC <beastmaster@earthlink.net>
Subject: 68-69 442 & W-30 parts

Found this in the local recycler, talked to the guy, his name is Shawn, and he 
has lots of
parts for sale.


68-69 Oldsmobile 442 prts, new red W-30 fenders, tic toe tac, rally whls SSII, 
70 seats,
$250-$1000
(818) 994-5892

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 16:26:22 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Special Request

Just to be clear, what I would like emailed to me is stuff that I might have
posted as "available" BEFORE 12/97.

Particularly, the list of my cars' VINs and/or the list of carbs available as
NOS or rebuilt.

Not the stuff since 5/99.

Thanks

- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 16:50:45 -0700
From: Greg Pruett <gregp@rbnet.com>
Subject: R134a conversion:  Swapping to a larger condenser?

I'm considering converting my 80 Calais to R134a when I get it
roadworthy and was looking at the condensers in the Calais and my 81
diesel caprice parts car.  The caprice condenser is slightly larger than
the Calais;  31x16 inches vs 29x16 in the Calais.  I measured the with
at where the tubes in the condensers make a u-turn and go back into the
fins, so it's not just a wider mouning system in the Caprice.  It
appears to be larger capacity.

Since R134A requires a larger condenser than a comparable R12 system,
I'm wondering if I could swap the caprice condenser into the Calais. 
I've read some AC theory books long ago and I know that increasing the
capacity of one part of the system can throw off the balance.  Even the
wrong diameter hoses can mess things up.  

Does anyone know if just using the larger condenser will improve the
performance of the AC?  Or would it require a larger evaporator as
well?  Or some other part?  I intend to use a different variable orifice
tube as well.  I understand that V.O. tubes calibrated for R134a are on
the market for older cars now.  

Thanks.

Greg Pruett
72 Vista Cruiser 
67 Cutlass Supreme
80 Cutlass Calais
73 98 LS

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 17:00:38 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 302=>304, etc.

- ------------------------------
Cougar XR7 with a 302.  He took the engine to the shop and it needed to be
bored .030  or 30 over which ever way you like it.  The question is what
would that make the cid?  I say aroung 306 to 312 max.  He says around 330.
What do you guys think.  Thanks!!!
- --
Hah, that explains how Ford folks get such wild power figures- they cannot use
a
calculator. :-)

my spreadsheet says... w/o caring what the stroke, # cyl's, etc. is, assuming a
b
ore of from 3.5 to 4.0"... a 30 over bore is about 0.75 to 0.85% more bore,
which
 makes a 302 go to 304.2 to 304.6 CID.

Spreadsheet simply lists bores from 3.5 to 4.0 by 0.1, then adds 0.030 ot each,
t
hen compares result after vs before overbore to get % increase in bore. There
wil
l of course be a corresponding increase in CID, assumes stroke not changed.
Then,
 multiply 302 by the increase factors to get final CID figures.


========================

- --snip story of great 67 442 w/ tri-carb find--
framerail (real steel) You can also tell the hood has been repainted. =
The chambered exhaust is still there, he just replaced the mufflers with =
glasspacks(they will be replaced). Found some papers when it was =
Inspected in 1977 the car had 71,000, the car now has 72,600. The car =
wasn't cheap but you don't find these very often !

                                                                         =
   THANKS FOR LISTENING     MIKE SIEDLIK
- ---------
Wow, thanks for sharing that. They are still out there... Excellent find, what
wi
th the tri-carb, and there are folks that sill seek that 68-9 400 motor, help
pay
 for your correct E block motor....
I think the Man Of Carbs has your '156 carb, but w/o my list... only wayt to
tell
 is to go ck the wall of carbs by hand which is, I shit you not, 15 ft tall,
abou
t 40-50 ft long, and 3 to 5 boxes deep. Sort-of arranged by make.
==================



- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 16:31:47 -0500
From: "Walker" <pwalker@megavision.com>
Subject: Re:302=>304 etc

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BEA470.966A64C0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

  I have personaly had the oppurtunity to look at the 67 442 that Mike =
Siedlik bought.
The car is in very good original shape with no rust and only several =
small dings. It also
sounds very healthy. He really found a great looking car. It is very =
striking in red on red.


- ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BEA470.966A64C0
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp; I have personaly had the =
oppurtunity to=20
look at the 67 442 that Mike Siedlik bought.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>The car is in very good original =
shape with no=20
rust and only several small dings. It also</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>sounds very healthy. He really found =
a great=20
looking car. It is very striking in red on red.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_000C_01BEA470.966A64C0--

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 18:28:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: More items available

Please consider these items added to the list of parts available:

40  67  Used CLOCK, from 98. Round dial analog type. Op'g cond. unknown.
20  67 Used  KICKDOWN SWITCH, TH400, mounts on engine compartment
               throttle linkage bracket.3 terminals, two mount holes.
200 67  Used RADIO, AM/FM/Wonderbar, 5 chrome pushbuttons. Model 7300103,
              Ser. 3W-65289. No knobs. Op'g cond. unknown.
300 78  Used POSI carrier, 10-bolt, from Hurst Olds. Was 3.08 ratio.
100 67? UBU  DISTRIBUTOR, #1111450, application unknown, not listed in
               67 CSM.
===============
I didn't know what to do for price on posi carrier, so figured start high.

Remember, you can take 50% off right away.

BTW, there is a '67 98 convertible at local yard. PW still there. Some trim,
fender skirts with some rust, etc. Wrong motor- '73 455-J. Any interest in
what's left.

Also, that yard has a '67 88 *2-door*, same motor as the other yacht. Some
items such as trim still there.

Also, get this:
Just in there, 1962 Cutlass, body only? no motor, or trans, restore started,
all painted primer yellow and gray, there is some rust visible, but not bad by
MI standards, I saw taillites [very nice] and parts in the trunk, they WILL
sell whole shebang. Lansing, MI.


- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 17:30:02 -0500 (CDT)
From: blue442@webtv.net (Jeff Carter)
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: H*lp needed to stop pinging!

Hey Jon,
You might check for a stuck mechanical advance.  Forgive my ignorance of
emissions equipment, but don't you have to unhook something to set the
timing?  The vaccuum advance maybe?  Good luck,

Jeff Carter
68 Olds 442
82 Gran Gury cop car

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 19:17:14 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: 350(?) ID please

	Got a block, on the ground (can't turn it to look at the CID cast 
onto the side of the block) and I would like to know what it is. Not listed 
on the FAQ (that I could find) It supposedly is a '75 350 (definately small 
block) and the carb matches for a '75. The number is 557752-3B as cast into 
that flat portion on the front of the motor. I'm sure someone will know what 
this is : )  thanks, Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 19:46:54 -0700
From: "Peter Berusch" <berusch@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Plate Stickers

Georgia has a system whereby you pay for your tag based on ( your ability to
pay ) the value of your car.  The state calls it Ad Valorem tax.  Tags here
can cost hundreds and hundreds of dollars.  HOWEVER, if your car is at least
25 years old and you have antique tags, then the Ad Valorem is fixed at one
dollar.  My 70 442 is one dollar plus the obligatory fees.  The tag is $23 a
year.  The same for my 66 98 droptop and the 70 Delta Custom Coupe.  I have
a friend who owns a Bloomington Gold Certified 67 Corvette coupe big block
car.  The car has been signed off on by Zora Duntov.  He has an antique tag
and pays one dollar a year tax.  Peter.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 20:07:42 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: 455 WP pulley guy

guy who wanted '74 455 pulley, I probably have one.
email me.
- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 18:12:33 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Smaller main pully

What would happen to my cooling and power if I switched from a large main
pulley to a smaller one.  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 20:30:38 -0400
From: "Ken" <olds442@en.com>
Subject: Re: WENT Drag Racing for the first time

Igor,

  When I was 15 I fell upon a Cutlass that was "built professionally"
acording to the owner, then left to rot behind some guys trailer home.  When
I spotted the car it was all but done for.  Erosion was eating away at the
ground under the car and it was perched on the side of a sizable cliff.  I
saved all the money I could from cutting lawns, paper route.  Finally got
the $300 which my parents matched so I could buy my first car.. We took 4
cans of fix a flat, a can of gas, a chain to pull it out and a battery.
Finally got it running and since I didnt have a liscense yet my dad had to
drive it home.  As you can imagine I was grinning from ear to ear all the
way home.  Dad says wow this thing has some good pick up for sitting like
that all those years..  I convince him to stop and do a burnout just to see
if its got any get up and go.  He stops and lays into it, lighting both
tires up for 100 ft+..  After that he pondered on how wise it was to let a
15 year old buy a car with a 455 in it.. I worked on it for the next few
months till I finally got my drivers liscense.  Ended up taking it to the
Thompson Dragraceway with learners permit in hand.  car ran 13.01@114mph..
Talk about no traction.  I had balding, belt showing BF Goodrich radial t/a
50 series tires.  Was sideways into second and 3rd gear many times.  The
fellow announcing in the tower had much fun at my expense. I found a set of
slicks at a swap meet for 50 bucks.  Once I got them home I realized they
were circle track nascar type slicks.  Tried to use them anyways.. ha! was
worse than before..  Doing something like this now adays is pretty much
impossible what with all the rules.  The car really was a death trap, but a
very fast death trap..  Ended up wraping the car around a telephone pole
when I was 17.  Was doing a holeshot impressing friends, car was sideways,
let off abit, car grabbed and took off... unfortunatly it was facing the
telephone pole in question just as it caught traction.  Telephone pole broke
in half and the light on top of it fell on top of my car.  Friends
were -not- impressed. Now I'm 31 years old and have been trying to get back
into racing.  This time I can afford afew more things, like tires that arent
bald and racing slicks.. heh   ouch, got off on a tangent there, sorry..
almost forgot why I wrote this..  You should try to borrow a set of slicks
from a friend or something.  I really doubt you will break anything with the
gears you have. Corse with the gears the car will prob bog once your hooking
up good. Maybe once you get a set of slicks you can over inflate them till
they spin just a hair off the line to avoid the dread bog.  I also hear the
those bf goodrich drag radials work very well. As for switching springs, I
doubt you will see any real gain compared to the hassle.  Suspension tuning
a 14 second car is abit overboard I think.


Ken

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 21:27:31 EDT
From: Dshack4@aol.com
Subject: subscribe oldsmobile

SUBSCRIBE OLDSMOBILE

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 21:55:59 EDT
From: Socalolds@aol.com
Subject: Desperately seeking TH400 shifter cable bracket

Anyone out there in Oldsmobile land have the TH400 trans floor shift bracket 
for the 69-72 A-body? I need an original don't want to hassel with an after 
market fitting right.  Had to scavange off my car to get my daughters 
running. Please let me know.
Dennis 

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 19:05:58 PDT
From: "Ioannis Kouramanis" <kourama@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: WENT Drag Racing for the first time

What year is your delta. is it 88, 98?


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 20:14:06 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: WENT Drag Racing for the first time

> What year is your delta. is it 88, 98?

1981 Delta 88 with a '76 455 with th400.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 19:15:41 PDT
From: "Ioannis Kouramanis" <kourama@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: GTOMAN???

>Mark Hahn
>75 Delta 88 Royale Convertible
>Cincinnati, Ohio
>

Mark,

I just started the resto on my '72. Have you done much
with the electronics of the car?

Here's the thing: The gas tank sensor wire runs from somewhere
on the top of the tank back behind the bumper, then up through
one of the holes. Is this the correct position? It seems odd to
me that so much wire is exposed. This wire is broken in 3 places.

Also, behind the rear seat on mine, the relay for the top motor
is bolted in kind of strangely. It looks like a quick home-made
fix. Should it be to the left of the motor against the back of the
seat?

Thanks.


______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 22:31:19 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: 1111450 dist: app'n?

<< I cannot find 1111450 listed in the '67 CSM, they all have -0xx numbers in 
'67.>>

Don't seem to be Swap Meet Numbers Guide.
(which does not claim to be complete)
Closest to those #s are:

1111466 & 1111468 - 1968 number supercession (meaning unclear)

1111470 - 400 w. 4v, U.H.V, with or w/o OAI

No other 11114xx codes appear.

Incidentally, this book lists forged cranks between 1968 and 1976, believe 
that they have confused Nodular cranks with forged cranks, as no reference to 
any Nudular applications.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 22:43:32 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: 350(?) ID please

In a message dated 99-05-22 19:19:22 EDT, you write:

<< the carb matches for a '75. The number is 557752-3B  >>

SMNG shows that as a 77-79 359.

However, 395558 2 is listed as a 1968-77 350.
Lotta years for a single casting #.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 22:49:12 -0400
From: "Ken Swick" <swickka@pa.net>
Subject: Re: More items available

Chris :

Will the 67 kickdown switch work on the 66 442.
I have forgotten what my terminals look like.
I think therewere both two and three prong
terminals.

If the kickdown will fit ... I'd like to buy it.
I'll check prongs tomorrow. How much you want?

Ken Swick
swickka@pa.net  

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 22:46:50 EDT
From: Knightvd@aol.com
Subject: Re: WENT Drag Racing for the first time

In a message dated 5/22/99 2:39:32 AM Central Daylight Time, igor455@home.com 
writes:

<< Except for the first one, I did not got WOT untill second gear, and
 that is a big waste. >>

Igor,

Thanks for you rundown at the track.  Racing is something everyone should 
experience.  

About that traction.  Does your car have a posi rear?  Obviously this will 
help.  But at any rate a few simple measures may help you next time.  You 
should start with these if you haven't tried them already.

First, bring a tire air pressure gauge with you next time out.  Make sure you 
are running enough air in your tires, especially if they are radials.  You 
can check your contact patch by doing a short burnout.  Your black stripe 
should be even across the width of your tread.  If it is heavy on the 
outsides it means that you do not have enough pressure.  Heavy in the middle 
means too much air.

What size tires are you running?  Going to wider tires may help traction.  

I agree that you don't want to waste your time playing with your rear 
springs.  In my opinion you definitely don't want to go with a softer spring 
in the rear.  To help the weight transfer you could pull your front shocks, 
although I don't recommend it since it is unsafe.  I've also heard of guys 
pulling the front anti-roll bar to help with the launch.  

You will probably be best served by a set of air bags in the rear.  Plumb 
them individually so you can adjust the air for each one.  You'll want to run 
more pressure in the right rear one.  When your engine twists the driveshaft, 
the torque is actually compressing that spring or "lifting" that tire.  I've 
also seen guys that strap the rear against the airbag to decrease the 
suspension travel.  When these are set up properly even an open rear can hook 
neatly.

Lastly, any car with decent power will spin its wheels through three gears if 
you mash the throttle.  Practice easing into it.

Vince Knight
71 Cutlass Supreme Convertible

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 20:53:47 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: WENT Drag Racing for the first time

> About that traction.  Does your car have a posi rear?

Yup!

> First, bring a tire air pressure gauge with you next time out.  Make sure
you
> are running enough air in your tires, especially if they are radials.  You
> can check your contact patch by doing a short burnout.  Your black stripe
> should be even across the width of your tread.  If it is heavy on the
> outsides it means that you do not have enough pressure.  Heavy in the
middle
> means too much air.

Did that and it did make a difference.

> What size tires are you running?  Going to wider tires may help traction.

255/60/15s on 8" wide rims

> I agree that you don't want to waste your time playing with your rear
> springs.  In my opinion you definitely don't want to go with a softer
spring
> in the rear.  To help the weight transfer you could pull your front
shocks,
> although I don't recommend it since it is unsafe.  I've also heard of guys
> pulling the front anti-roll bar to help with the launch.

I heard that disconecting it would help.  Should try that on the street
first just for a second.

> You will probably be best served by a set of air bags in the rear.  Plumb
> them individually so you can adjust the air for each one.

I have air shocks but they make matters wors.  Most people say that pumping
out the air shocks will have more traction and that is what I did.  I,
however, notice better traction on the street with pumped-up air shock,
don't know why.  Air bags might help, though.

> Lastly, any car with decent power will spin its wheels through three gears
if
> you mash the throttle.  Practice easing into it.

I know, but my car is not that strong.  It's the track.  Much worst traction
then the street.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 23:18:31 EDT
From: S61starfir@aol.com
Subject: Re: Bumper question

In a message dated 5/21/99 10:29:55 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
LPBuilder@aol.com writes:

<< 
 	Has anyone used the guy who advertises on 442.com for bumpers by the 
 name of desertdog auto parts. The price looks great for what he says they 
are.
 3 year quarantee sounds good. I'm looking for a good piece no Bumper boy
 junk. Peeling chrome does nothing for me. If some one can let me know I'd 
 greatly
 appreciate it.
  >>
You will get 100% satisfaction from Bob Cline who is Desert Dog Autoparts. 
Bumpers are great

Everett  OCA# 1961  1961 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 23:37:46 EDT
From: RCKTPWR@aol.com
Subject: Re: Quincy's Pending Compleation.

In a message dated 5/21/99 9:36:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
costanzo@netcarrier.com writes:

<< Gary, >>
Still dont like the name IROC or SS associated w/Oldsmobile. They always will 
be Ch*vy nameplates to me......sorry, I just cant cant accept it. Good luck 
w/the car though.

Bernie

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 22:44:13 -0700
From: T Dzieciatkowski <Dziec@megsinet.net>
Subject: 77 wont start

me and my cousin pulled out our 1977 cutlass salon to clean up 
and the dang thing won't start. 
starters ok 
traced the wires up and used an wiring diagram  but still no go. 
the starter does even spin, except for crossing the starter poles ouch 
this is what a couple of my friends said  do you agree 

the ignition switch is bad
the wiring may be fried or messed up 
neutral safety switch burned up or not connected

please if you can help narrow it down we both would appreiacate  it

the car is very heavy to push in and out of a garage!!!

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 23 May 1999 08:27:46 EDT
From: Mr6BBL@aol.com
Subject: Re: 77 wont start

did you try your fuseable links at the starter ?

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1973
*********************************

