Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
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cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1932


oldsmobile-digest      Thursday, April 29 1999      Volume 01 : Number 1932



Do tell.
Re: Best tires for 14x7 rally wheels?
Re: Northern Virginia Olds Meet
Re: 455 for sale
Oops.
Rear Main Seal Part II
Re: Rear Main Seal Part II
Magnetic relay switches
Re: Cigrette Lighter and other tricks.
Re: Gearless (long)
h\o help
Re: Best tires for 14x7 rally wheels?
Re: Gearless (long)
Re: Best tires for 14x7 rally wheels?
Re: Firewall Stamps question
Re: Cigrette Lighter and other tricks.
Re: Rear Main Seal Part II
Re: Rear Main Seal Part II
Re: Best tires for 14x7 rally wheels?
Re: Steel-shim vs composite head gaskets.
Locating 68 H/O
Re: Locating 68 H/O
Re: UNBOUNCE: One wire alternators
Re: Roll Call)1/4mile?)
Re: A/C Panel Troubles
Re: Locating 68 H/O
Q-jet on 360 MOPAR
Re: Birthday Milestone
UNBOUNCE: Need '84 H/O Stripes & Decals
Re: Firewall Stamps question
Re: Gearless (long)
Re: Shock recommendation?
Re: Chevy Cutlass Supreme???
Re: Do tell.
[none]
CAMS query
UNBOUNCE: Re: Shock recommendation?
What Holly for 455ci???
Re: Locating 68 H/O
A few more questions
Re: A/C Panel Troubles
Re: A few more questions
re: lojack
Re: Cigrette Lighter and other tricks.
68 2 DR HARD TOP
Theft deterrent systems
Looking to record mid 50's Olds
Re: 68 2 DR HARD TOP
Re: Rear Main Seal Part II
No! was: Who needs a belly laugh?
trunk leaking
Re: What Holly for 455ci???
Re: trunk leaking
Re: Theft deterrent systems

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 22:37:52 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Do tell.

I always us magetic relay switches, like you would find on windows and at
the base of doors, and hide the unit below a thin fabric part of the
interior(above the headliner in my 65's). All that is needed to trigger the
relay, either open or closed, is to pass an ordinary magnet across the exact
area where the switch is concealed. I have magbetic Olds emlems on my key
chains for this purpose. It is nearly impossible for a "perp" to find and
activate. I have even installed them behind customers plastic dashes. Since
there is no toggle switch to look for, this has been the stealthiest way I
have learned.

Collyn
Ooooo, Hot Damn, I Gotta here more about this. Set me up with a system for
Quincy. I'll buy/install the parts.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----
"Windows-98 is a 32 bit extension and Graphical shell
for a 16 bit patch to an 8 bit operating system originally
coded for a 4 bit microprocessor, written by a 2 bit
company, that can't stand 1 bit of competition."
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ---

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 21:45:21 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Best tires for 14x7 rally wheels?

>I've been running Goodyear Eagle ST 225/70R14's with good results.  I
>switched to Eagle #1's in 245/60R14 and got a HUGE increase in traction,
the
>only problem is that they have yellow letters so I have them mounted
>blackwall out.
>
>It's time for a new set and I want to get back to raised white letters.
BFG
>makes Radial T/A's, and Dunlop makes their GT qualifier "T"  (which is
speed
>rated 6mph faster than the others), all in 245/60R14.
>
>Anyone run these brands?  I'd like some input as to which ones to buy.
>
>-greg


Greg,
I've had probably at least 6 sets of BFG T/A's over the years and
have never had any problems.  My 68 now runs 235/60R14 T/A's
on the front.  The BFG's are easy to find, cheap, have good treadwear,
and grip pretty good.  I've run Dunlops and Goodyears in the past
and never been particularly enthused with either.  The Goodyears
especially seem to always cost more than an equivalent BFG without
offering anything more than the BFG's except a name.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 22:43:10 -0400
From: Miguel Morales <Mike.Morales@wcom.com>
Subject: Re: Northern Virginia Olds Meet

I was there trying to sell parts last year. Saw an authentic '68 H/O in prime
condition, to a number of 60's 442's. I saw the '70 W31  post-coupe with the 
350
Rocket  that was on sale here in the Washington Post last week-end for $7500, :
- - P

Also saw a gold colored '70 Cutlass big-block fitted with Holley fuel 
injection.
It sounded good.
I sold most of my parts thanks to this list. Hardly sold anything there except
for some brake pads and a H/O and W-machine production numbers book. But there
are some vendors that have many products that are interesting, even year of
manufacture antique plates.

I still have a few odd items for the '84 H/O I sold last year which was
recovered-stolen. The things I have are hardly worth reserving space for, I'd 
go
just to hear the trademark sound of Olds engines cruising around.

Mike Morales

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 22:43:47 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Re: 455 for sale

Man, where are you located.  Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com 

Custom Conversion Prototype: 
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com



>    My new engine project has gone a little over budget and I`m going to
> try and sell the original engine which is still in my 75 H/O. I thought
> I would put it on the list first. I live in northern Indiana and will
> not be able to ship it aywhere. I am pulling it out Saturday and need to
> sell it very soon afterwards. I need to keep the starter and carb off of
> it, everythng else goes.
>    It has 66,270 miles on it and runs good, burns no oil and has no
> leaks. J heads,(sorry, but it is a 75). I need to get $500 as soon as I
> can.
> 
> Corey Putnam
> 75 H/O W-30
> 87 Regal w/Olds 455
> http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 22:46:54 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Oops.

Ooops Sorry, that magnetic Relay post was meant private. 

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com 

Custom Conversion Prototype: 
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 21:49:03 -0500 (CDT)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Dr. Olds - K. Wood)
Subject: Rear Main Seal Part II

Another question I just came up with... I was
just paging through the FAQ's and see there
where somebody claimed the Ford 460 Neoprene rear main seal will for on
the Olds
455.  Anybody believe that?  I just want the
seal not to leak anymore! 

Thanks again,
Kevin D. Wood
Dr-Olds@webtv.net

P.S.  I just got the last digest, and there have
not been any responses yet... Is everybody
sleeping?  H*lp, please.... Pretty please???

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 21:50:11 -0500
From: Stephen Hoover <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: Rear Main Seal Part II

The gasket kit I just got from Mondello for my 455 rebuilt had a Ford
rear main seal in it. Didn't note the part number, but the had the Ford
logo on both halves.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

"Dr. Olds - K. Wood" wrote:
> 
> Another question I just came up with... I was
> just paging through the FAQ's and see there
> where somebody claimed the Ford 460 Neoprene rear main seal will for on
> the Olds
> 455.  Anybody believe that?  I just want the
> seal not to leak anymore!
> 
> Thanks again,
> Kevin D. Wood
> Dr-Olds@webtv.net
> 
> P.S.  I just got the last digest, and there have
> not been any responses yet... Is everybody
> sleeping?  H*lp, please.... Pretty please???

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 22:53:24 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Magnetic relay switches

   I will dig out the "Ol' Radio Shack Book O' Junk" and list parts with 
their part#'s and list prices . I will also describe , in detail, the 
proceedures for installing these. I have been able to use thses switches, in 
conjunction with a Bosch relay, to perform many tasks. I have designed them 
for people to use, instead of rubber covered buttons, for triggering solinoid 
activated doors(shaved door handle cars). I learned this trick 11 years ago 
when I was designing and installing custom stereos for professional 
competition . I was also an installer for Rockford Fosgate in the early 90's. 
These switches were very trick and when used properly , they could totally 
disable things like volume controls(useful for when spectators are left 
breifly unattended in a 12,000watt RMS show vehicle. 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 22:54:37 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: Cigrette Lighter and other tricks.

I always liked the electric shock alarm....touch the car anywhere and you get 
a jolt...to beat a tow truck you could always have a spike in the ground and 
a cable or chain is locked around the rear of your car...
Hot Rod Harry

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 22:04:15 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Gearless (long)

>I had to take the 80 Cutlass to the shop today as I was getting a vibration
>from the rear end and a grinding sound when I backed up and turned the
>wheel. At first I thought it was my rear brakes but I took it to the shop
to
>find out. The initial report is bad, they didn't have time to put it up on
>the hoist but they did take it for a test drive. I was told it is bad they
>said it sounds like the ring & pinion has expired, but they didn't hazard a
>guess as to the status of my posi. Well now I am going to find out the
total
>damage tomorrow, I think this will be the end of my car for a wile as I do
>not have the funds to replace the 1000 that was put into the rear.

Don't get too down Kevin.  It may not be as bad as you think.  When I
shipped my 72 to Germany I started experiencing about the same
symptoms as you describe.  While I had used a new set of gears, I
had a used posi.  I had just picked up the car off the boat when it
first started.  Put it up on the lift and took a look and found that the
pinion nut had backed off.  Took the rear cover off and the gear oil
had a lot of fine particles in it and the carrier had some grooves cut
in it where the pinion had backed up into it.  Fresh oil and some
loctite on the nut got me back on the road and never had another
problem.  Normally when a gear goes out either you bust teeth off
or it starts howling like mad.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 20:02:34 PDT
From: "ROBERT HAVASI" <forevrevl@hotmail.com>
Subject: h\o help

I recently purchased a 1984 h\o for $2,000.  But, it needs a paint job.
I have looked and looked, but I can't find out where to get the stripes and 
decals for it.  Please help me!!!



                                                                               
          Sincerely,
                                                                               
    Bobby Havasi

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 23:13:48 -0400
From: Nikolaj Richers <nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca>
Subject: Re: Best tires for 14x7 rally wheels?

Mike Bloomerwrite:
> I've had probably at least 6 sets of BFG T/A's over the years and
> have never had any problems.  My 68 now runs 235/60R14 T/A's
> on the front.  The BFG's are easy to find, cheap, have good treadwear,
> and grip pretty good.

Are these the Radial T/As or the Comp T/As? I know the Comp T/As are
actually quite nice tires, but the Radial T/As are a whole lot cheaper,
at least from the Tire Rack and I'm warming up to their tread look. See
enough of them on muscle cars and your mental hamster begins to think
you need 'em.

My feeling is that the Radial T/As have improved a lot over the years
and what was once a not so great handling tire might technically have
been a different tire, i.e. an earlier incarnation of the Radial T/A.
The sidewall reinforcements, what, the 'G-Wedge' it is called, might
actually help a lot with the higher aspect ratio sidewalls.

Anyone think Radial T/As are decent tires these days? Or should one save
one's pennies and go Comp T/A?

	Nikolaj

- -- 
Nikolaj Richers, Toronto, Canada;  webmaster, www.designdom.com
nrichers@designdom.com, nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca, webmaster@designdom.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 23:21:49 -0400
From: Nikolaj Richers <nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca>
Subject: Re: Gearless (long)

> I had to take the 80 Cutlass to the shop today as I was getting a vibration
> from the rear end and a grinding sound when I backed up and turned the
> wheel. At first I thought it was my rear brakes but I took it to the shop
> to
> find out.

What makes me think I am a much worse amateur mechanic than I might be,
i.e. what humbles me, is how often I've 'diagnosed' something by sound,
conjecture and anticipation, only to be proven completely wrong.

How can a shop diagnose something accurately without having looked at
it? Have you looked at your rear-end and checked it out? 
 
I remember getting a 'blind' rear brake job quote once for something
that turned out to be a sticky parking brake cable making one caliper
drap, which made an unhappy sound, like a wear indicator might make.
Hmm.

	Nikolaj
	'85 Olds Eighty-Eight

- -- 
Nikolaj Richers, Toronto, Canada; nrichers@nexus.yorku.ca

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 22:39:57 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Best tires for 14x7 rally wheels?

>Mike Bloomerwrite:
>> I've had probably at least 6 sets of BFG T/A's over the years and
>> have never had any problems.  My 68 now runs 235/60R14 T/A's
>> on the front.  The BFG's are easy to find, cheap, have good treadwear,
>> and grip pretty good.
>
>Are these the Radial T/As or the Comp T/As? I know the Comp T/As are
>actually quite nice tires, but the Radial T/As are a whole lot cheaper,
>at least from the Tire Rack and I'm warming up to their tread look. See
>enough of them on muscle cars and your mental hamster begins to think
>you need 'em.


These were Radial T/As, sorry for the oversight.  My personal feeling 
is that the Comp T/As would be a waste of money unless you modify
your suspension to take advantage of them, especially on the early
A bodies.  One of the reasons for this is that if you push an early A
body very hard in the corners the tires will round off on their outside
corners due to the suspension geometry.  For me, the combination
of price, dry/wet traction, and tire life is hard to beat.  They don't
look too shabby either!  If you live in a wet climate don't even think
about the Euro T/A's, I ran a set of them on another car and they 
would do nothing but spin.  

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 23:36:47 EDT
From: Zeilmanns@aol.com
Subject: Re: Firewall Stamps question

Thanks a bunch Randy for the reply, but I guess my question was not clear 
enough.  The information I put in my message was taken directly off the cowl 
tag.  I know how to decipher the cowl tag, but the information I am looking 
for are the PAINT stamps that are put on the firewall during production.  The 
two on my 69 Cutlass convertible are a yellow "N" in a 2in. X 2in. yellow 
box, and a light green "B" in a 2in. X 2in. light green box.  Both are 
located just to the right of the big black A/C condenser cover that mounts to 
the firewall, and just to the left of the center of the firewall.  

On my 4-4-2, someone painted over these with flat black paint, making them 
impossible to read.  

Any ideas?

Again, here some of the pertinent info on my 4-4-2:

I have a dark metallic blue 1969 Olds 4-4-2 w/ light. blue interior.  The VIN 
# is 344879M238073.  It was made in Lansing in 1969. It is has no vinyl roof, 
and came with PS, PB, AC and the standard 4-4-2 package.  The plate on the 
firewall has the following info on it:

ST69  33687LAN237774  BDY
TR933     51    51    PNT

Here are my questions:  
What stamps should be on my firewall (ie. what letters)?
What color were they?
Where should they be placed?

Some fool that had the car before me painted over them all, and I have no way 
of telling.  I have the car in the shop right now, and the guy building the 
engine is being nice enough to let me detail the engine compartment while the 
engine is out, but I don't know what to re-stamp the firewall with.  Anyone 
know?

Jeff

'69 4-4-2
'69 Cutlass Convertible
zeilmanns@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 22:56:18 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Cigrette Lighter and other tricks.

>I've always been skeptical of an alarm system...they are always bypassable,
>and usually serve to make people mad rather than to alert them of a problem
>with your car.
>
>Having said that, I'm determined that no one is gettin' *MY* car without a
>tow-truck. :-P
>
>I'm getting an alarm that has a starter disable, and a VRS system (Alarm
>sounds 30 seconds after you are forcibly removed from your vehicle). I
>figure that if they get past the alarm, AND the starter disable, then their
>gonna have to find a SPDT switch that simultaneously cuts my coil juice and
>enables the neutral safety switch. (I'm still working on this...looks to be
>fairly easy)
>
>Of course by the time they figure out they won't get the car or decide it's
>a POS, they'll probably be so P.O'd that they'll trash it anyway. <sigh>


It all depends on where you live.  The more urban the area the better the
chances that you'll come up against "good" thieves.  I remember back
about 8 years ago a regular customer of the shop I worked in took a trip
to FL.  His car had a top of the line (then) alarm, I believe it was a
Clifford.
The car got broken into but the only thing that was taken was the alarm!
Kind of a statement of sorts.  I also remember seeing a thing on TV a
couple of years ago on Dateline or one of those other shows.  They had
a car thief and timed him on how long it took him to take a car with an
alarm.  I think the longest it took him was 2 minutes to bypass 4 separate
alarm systems on one car.  I also know from people I've known that the
harder it is to steal a car the more they want to steal it just for bragging
rights.  And how do they know these alarm systems so well?  A lot of
them are/were installers.  Thanks, but no thanks.  I'll keep to my hidden
kill switches and 30+ year old wiring that you have to jiggle just right.
;-)
Now if someone would just steal my truck so I could buy another Olds...

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 22:56:14 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Rear Main Seal Part II

its a direct glue in 
- ----- Original Message ----- 
From: Dr. Olds - K. Wood <Dr-Olds@webtv.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 9:49 PM
Subject: Rear Main Seal Part II


> Another question I just came up with... I was
> just paging through the FAQ's and see there
> where somebody claimed the Ford 460 Neoprene rear main seal will for on
> the Olds
> 455.  Anybody believe that?  I just want the
> seal not to leak anymore! 
> 
> Thanks again,
> Kevin D. Wood
> Dr-Olds@webtv.net
> 
> P.S.  I just got the last digest, and there have
> not been any responses yet... Is everybody
> sleeping?  H*lp, please.... Pretty please???
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 22:57:10 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Rear Main Seal Part II

again with the footnote to this but Fel pro lists a neoprene seal for the
olds big block in their current catalog...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Dr. Olds - K. Wood <Dr-Olds@webtv.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, April 28, 1999 9:49 PM
Subject: Rear Main Seal Part II


> Another question I just came up with... I was
> just paging through the FAQ's and see there
> where somebody claimed the Ford 460 Neoprene rear main seal will for on
> the Olds
> 455.  Anybody believe that?  I just want the
> seal not to leak anymore!
>
> Thanks again,
> Kevin D. Wood
> Dr-Olds@webtv.net
>
> P.S.  I just got the last digest, and there have
> not been any responses yet... Is everybody
> sleeping?  H*lp, please.... Pretty please???
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 21:02:03 PDT
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Best tires for 14x7 rally wheels?

Hi,

If you feel like being garish there is a letter kit to Foil Gold     
(Silver, or other colors) your tire letters.  I saw it at AutoZone.

later,

Chris Rivier 
Austin,TX 
'66 Delta 88   The BEAST under CONSTRUCTION. 
'88 Festiva   ZIPPY 166K Lil' Parts Hauler. 
WrEck PiX @ http://www2.bladeti.com/cars 


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 23:09:51 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Steel-shim vs composite head gaskets.

>Some people have mentioned warping, is it a "urban engine legend" that
>BMW motorcycles used to be so well machines that you could assemble and
>run the motors with no gaskets and get no oil leaks?
>-- 
>Cliff "never sure if someone is blowing smoke or not" Simpson


Cliff,
I don't have any experience with BMW motorcycles but 2 years in
Germany taught me that they are fairly anal about things being 
precise.  Not a bad thing at all.  Point is, it wouldn't surprise me
much if you could, though I wouldn't bet the farm on it. 

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/
 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 00:06:22 EDT
From: BvilleStew@aol.com
Subject: Locating 68 H/O

Does anyone have the ability to find out if a car still exists?

I would like to see if I can locate a 68 H/O that I previously owned. I have 
not seen the car in 15 years. I would like to possibly re-purchase it if I 
can. I do have the VIN and am located in Minnesota. It was the last state I 
have seen the car in.

Any ideas???

Mike  

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 00:34:17 EDT
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: Locating 68 H/O

I have a 68 H/O  regestry    e-mail me the VIN  I will let you know if its on 
there


Vinny

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 01:12:54 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: One wire alternators

> I heard from a buddy that one can convert a two wire internal regulated
> alternator to a one wire (batt.) version with merely a jumper wire. Do any
> of you know how to do this? I have a never used rebuilt internal regulator
> alternator I'd like to convert. Makes wiring easier and less prone to
> problems. I have one I paid too many bucks for in the 67 442 and love it.

Yikes it's been a long time since I posted here... at least 3 cars ago!

I wrote up a conversion for external to internal alternators a few years
ago, and finally html-ized it.  This should cover any and all info you
need to do what you're trying to do above.

find it at:

http://www.liii.com/~ravalent/convert/conv.html

Note it's .HTML,  **NOT** .HTM!

Hey, can anyone help me find the body molding for my '71 CS?  

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                     -->  bob@tecmark.com <--
     "Clinging Tenaciously to the Trailing Edge of Technology"

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 28 Apr 1999 23:08:44 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Roll Call)1/4mile?)

Shane wrote:

> >  '67 Cutlass convertible - 12.92@99mph
<snip - snip>


Shane,

As others have posted, this almost has to be a fuel delivery 
problem.  Due to the 1967 Cutlass' factory 5/16" fuel line,
fuel starvation through the traps is very likely with a
modified 455 (67 4-4-2's used 3/8" line).  I would suggest
upgrading the steel lines from the tank to carb with at 
least 3/8" line.  Additionally, since the Cutlass tank pick 
up/sending unit is still 5/16", it will need to be upgraded 
as well.  Another option for the pick up with a stock tank is 
to have a bung fitting (really, that's what it's called) 
welded to the bottom of the tank (most radiator shops can 
do this).  Bung fittings are available thru Russell Perf. 
I would also do away with the mechanical pump (in addition to
diaphragm fluttering, the mechanical pump is also adding 
unwanted heat to the fuel).  Add a Holley blue pump and
corresponding regulator, and you'll have a fuel system that
will match the rest of your package.


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Cutlass/4-4-2 parts web site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 01:32:18 -0500
From: Matthew Bremmer <bremmer@sgi.com>
Subject: Re: A/C Panel Troubles

I had a similar failure on my parents' Pontiac Bonneville.  I would take
the connector off of the compressor and check if there is voltage there
when you have it on a/c.  If no voltage there is a relay that is
acitvated for this and it possibly could be bad.  This relay was like
10-20 bucks for the bonneville and this fixed.  The problem.

By the way man some of us cannot read html so I would send to the list
in text only.  Thanks.

Matt

P.S.->  Let me know what your fix was and if I can help.  Also I would
go get a haynes manual to get the wire diagram to assist in tracking
down the relay.  They are only about 10 bucks...
Joe Kenny wrote:

>  I just bought a 90 Cutlass Supreme 2 dr, 2.3 Quad-4 with 30K about
> three weeks ago.  I can't get the air conditioning to work!  The
> blower/fan will work at all four speeds but the selector buttons (the
> a/c, floor, vent, etc) don't seems to make any difference.  "Off"
> works ok and any other button sends the air out the top window vent.
> I've also confirmed that the a/c compressor is not running when I
> select the a/c button. I removed the selector panel from the dash and
> the panel looks ok mechanically.  Is there another unit that the
> in-dash panel works with that I should be looking at?  Has anyone
> heard of the in-dash selector panel going bad like this before? Any
> suggestions are appreciated.

- --
"The truth is out there; Trust NO ONE!!!!!!!"

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 02:34:42 EDT
From: Socalolds@aol.com
Subject: Re: Locating 68 H/O

Vinny,
I have 3 68 H/O's and will do just that. I know none of mine are listed.
You will hear from me soon.
Dennis

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 00:39:07 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Q-jet on 360 MOPAR

You all know how much I love carbs.  Well, since my 360 Dodge Van needs a
carb, I figure I should try the Q-jet of my 307.  It should work, right.
The chock might not hook-up, but I will go to electric in that case or none
at all.  The carb should bolt on and I guess that accesories would be
possible to bolt on as well.  What do you think?  Thanks guys.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 02:57:04 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: Birthday Milestone

Whoa!  Today???  as in 4-28?  Wow, I'm impressed...  The Oldsmagnet turned 28 
on
4/28.  Glad to be involved with such high ranked company!  :)  


Much better than finding Saddam Hussein's birthday was ~also~ today........


Great day, guys!!!  :)


- -- 
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://drive.to/Oldsmagnet    See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 06:26:15 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Need '84 H/O Stripes & Decals

Not on the list; respond to forevrevl@hotmail.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"ROBERT HAVASI" <forevrevl@hotmail.com>

I recently purchased a 1984 h\o for $2,000.  But, it needs a paint job.  I
have looked and looked, but I can't find out where to get the stripes and
decals for it.  Please h*lp me!!! 



                                                                               
          Sincerely,
                                                                               
    Bobby Havasi

______________________________________________________
Get Your Private, Free Email at http://www.hotmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 02:54:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: "R.Strachan" <creature48212@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Firewall Stamps question

Sorry,but i'm not Randy ,but i do have a 69 Cutlass
though.Good luck

- --- Zeilmanns@aol.com wrote:
> Thanks a bunch Randy for the reply, but I guess my
> question was not clear 
> enough.  The information I put in my message was
> taken directly off the cowl 
> tag.  I know how to decipher the cowl tag, but the
> information I am looking 
> for are the PAINT stamps that are put on the
> firewall during production.  The 
> two on my 69 Cutlass convertible are a yellow "N" in
> a 2in. X 2in. yellow 
> box, and a light green "B" in a 2in. X 2in. light
> green box.  Both are 
> located just to the right of the big black A/C
> condenser cover that mounts to 
> the firewall, and just to the left of the center of
> the firewall.  
> 
> On my 4-4-2, someone painted over these with flat
> black paint, making them 
> impossible to read.  
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Again, here some of the pertinent info on my 4-4-2:
> 
> I have a dark metallic blue 1969 Olds 4-4-2 w/
> light. blue interior.  The VIN 
> # is 344879M238073.  It was made in Lansing in 1969.
> It is has no vinyl roof, 
> and came with PS, PB, AC and the standard 4-4-2
> package.  The plate on the 
> firewall has the following info on it:
> 
> ST69  33687LAN237774  BDY
> TR933     51    51    PNT
> 
> Here are my questions:  
> What stamps should be on my firewall (ie. what
> letters)?
> What color were they?
> Where should they be placed?
> 
> Some fool that had the car before me painted over
> them all, and I have no way 
> of telling.  I have the car in the shop right now,
> and the guy building the 
> engine is being nice enough to let me detail the
> engine compartment while the 
> engine is out, but I don't know what to re-stamp the
> firewall with.  Anyone 
> know?
> 
> Jeff
> 
> '69 4-4-2
> '69 Cutlass Convertible
> zeilmanns@aol.com
> 

_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 07:57:42 -0400
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <TJACQUILLARD@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: Gearless (long)


> All I can say is I did not think a warmed over 307 would kill a 7.5
> rear end, my mistake may have been in going for a used ring & pinion.

> Kevin Grant

  Kevin,
A buddy of mine has been running a locking 7.5' rear end in his 84 blazer for
over a year. He has a "very warmed over" 350 w/700r4 and he has had no problem
except that he keeps breaking the lock. His blazer is pretty quick, it's the
only thing around here, on the street, that has given me a little work. I have 
a
feeling that something was not installed properly. The alignment of the gears 
or
the backlash was probably off. Sorry about the problem, though. Hate to see
anyone get hit with this kind of bill unexpectedly.
T.J. (68 SUPREME W/455)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 06:58:09 -0500
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas.Martin@motorola.com>
Subject: Re: Shock recommendation?

Best:  70-96 B-Body, Bilstein  Front:  B46-1104  Rear:  B46-0929  (For Olds
they only list this for 77-87, but it should be correct for 70-the last of
the rear drive 88/98 cars, see guide for wagons)

	 73-88 A/G-Body, Bilstein  Front:  B36-0949  Rear:  B46-0929
The 70-96 B-Body shock DOES fit the 78-88 G-Body, but Bilstein does not
recommend it, not sure why.  Something about what it is designed for.  Maybe
specific valving.  
	 
I have never used KYB, but I have been told by one person they are lousy,
and do not last long, where the Bilstein shocks are toted to have 98% of new
performance at 100,000 miles (I even saw recently 98% at 200,000 miles).

I have the Gabriel VST for the cop car optioned Caprice on my 85 Cutlass
now, and have no quams with them, but I have only had them on for 800 miles.
I still plan on swapping in Bilsteins this summer.  They are only $55.00
each for my car at AutoZone.  

With the Napa shocks (Read Monroe sensatrac) I have typically changed them
every 15-20K miles.  So for me to get Bilsteins would be a performance and
reliability improvement.  I hate trying to get that darn front top shock
bolt off after 2 years of winter driving!  

Hope this sheds some light!

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 07:00:02 -0500
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas.Martin@motorola.com>
Subject: Re: Chevy Cutlass Supreme???

"But isn't GM owned by Chevy??"

that is why you drive a rice-burner......

"Now go away kid, you're bothering me...."

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 08:03:57 -0400
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <TJACQUILLARD@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: Do tell.

> I always us magetic relay switches, like you would find on windows and at
> the base of doors, and hide the unit below a thin fabric part of the
> interior(above the headliner in my 65's). All that is needed to trigger the
> relay, either open or closed, is to pass an ordinary magnet across the exact
> area where the switch is concealed. I have magbetic Olds emlems on my key
> chains for this purpose. It is nearly impossible for a "perp" to find and
> activate. I have even installed them behind customers plastic dashes. Since
> there is no toggle switch to look for, this has been the stealthiest way I
> have learned.
>
> Collyn
> Ooooo, Hot Damn, I Gotta here more about this. Set me up with a system for
> Quincy. I'll buy/install the parts.

   I also would like the details on how to do this and where to get the parts.
Can you send them to me?
tjacquillard@clds.net (T.J.)

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 13:34:37 +0200
From: Webmaster <www@luftslottet.hia.no>
Subject: [none]

Subject: Important!

Hello!

This is amazing:

There's a company that pays you to surf the net!
(they pay you when you're connected to the Internet)

It sounds stupid, but it is true!
They also pay you when your friends surf the net!

Register as soon as possible (you have everything to win, and nothing to loose)
Then you'll be able to recruit new people, and you'll get payed from their 
Internet-use as well

For more information and registration:

- --> http://alladvantage.com/go.asp?refid=BLR193

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 08:40:16 EDT
From: Prest4Tyme@aol.com
Subject: CAMS query

At:     http://www.442.com/oldsfaq/ofmpi.htm

<< ...Here's the chart produced by ___Karl Sarpolis___ that was originally 
printed in the Feb/1995 issue of JWO. All credit is his. Note that the part # 
is not the casting number. >>

Can you confirm that is KARL, not RICHARD, Sarpolis, please?
Thank you, Pamela = = = END

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 10:03:29 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Re: Shock recommendation?

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas.Martin@motorola.com>
Subject: Re: Shock recommendation?

Best:  70-96 B-Body, Bilstein  Front:  B46-1104  Rear:  B46-0929  (For Olds
they only list this for 77-87, but it should be correct for 70-the last of
the rear drive 88/98 cars, see guide for wagons)

	 73-88 A/G-Body, Bilstein  Front:  B36-0949  Rear:  B46-0929
The 70-96 B-Body shock DOES fit the 78-88 G-Body, but Bilstein does not
recommend it, not sure why.  Something about what it is designed for.  Maybe
specific valving.  
	 
I have never used KYB, but I have been told by one person they are lousy,
and do not last long, where the Bilstein shocks are toted to have 98% of new
performance at 100,000 miles (I even saw recently 98% at 200,000 miles).

I have the Gabriel VST for the cop car optioned Caprice on my 85 Cutlass
now, and have no quams with them, but I have only had them on for 800 miles.
I still plan on swapping in Bilsteins this summer.  They are only $55.00
each for my car at AutoZone.  

With the Napa shocks (Read Monroe sensatrac) I have typically changed them
every 15-20K miles.  So for me to get Bilsteins would be a performance and
reliability improvement.  I hate trying to get that darn front top shock
bolt off after 2 years of winter driving!  

Hope this sheds some light!

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 09:23:18 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: What Holly for 455ci???

OK everyone,

In researching the Offy intake on the 455 I'm about to get. All info confirm
it's only for a Holly square bore carb. Yes I could get an adapter for you
purists out there but that's a no go. I need the under hood room. I'll
already lose 1/2" to a N2O plate system. Can't spare any more. So for you
Holly equipped Olds BB's out there. Tell me what carb your running, Jets
etc. I need info now to order the carb I'll drop on this. Please include any
cable bracketry I'll also need. I do believe the Th200-4R has the TV cable
that will need be connected too so there's so me fiddling work needed here.
You can respond privately through either address below if you wish to remain
anonymous, Hehe.       Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 09:24:11 EDT
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: Locating 68 H/O

Sounds good Dennis,

The list is a couple years old,  but has quite a few cars on it.

Vinny

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 09:54:44 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: A few more questions

A few more questions.
I intend to strip out the old fuel lines and run new 3/8"  hard line. I want
all solid connections hence no rubber inline. I'm looking at all the
colorful fittings that are AN Fittings. Must tell you I'm pulling a ????
here as to what size I need to mate up to this 3/8" line. -4AN,  -6AN  ????
Help!!! Will be tossing mechanical fuel pump for a Holly Blue at 14 psi and
regulate down to what 7 psi? Opinions? This will not only feed the Holly
Double Pumper (still need #'s) but branch off to also feed the Wet side of a
150 N2O plate system. Shhhh.  Do you think I should bump to 1/2" feed line?
I will rework the tank P/ U guts to match the draw line size. Should I mount
the Electric pump at tank location or up in engine bay for easy access? Of
course with a sufficient filter mounted between. Who makes a block off plate
for the Olds mechanical fuel pump location. I see mostly for Fo*d and Chebby
but no Olds listed. One of these others fit? Orders are going out first
thing next week so I need to nail all this stuff soon.  I need everything
fit properly as in the fitting to line size so installation goes smooth and
quickly. Will my SB FlowTech headers bolt up to the BB 455? Anyone know?? I
know I will find out but if there is fact no, than I can order appropriate
right now for the ready in 2 weeks. Otherwise Quincy will sit as parts are
reordered. Sorry Greg to use the main list but here's where the bulk of
knowledge I need lives. Mr. Rollin, I've heard you chime in recently about
the Holly Blue pump and since you run, probably can give me a handle on the
AN fittings to line issue. Suggest 3/8" or 1/2" and what AN fittings? I'll
get ahold of GM today to assess the availability of everything required to
"hook up" a lightning Rods setup to Th200-4R. Isn't this the correct H/O
Tranny as well for these shifters? Well I'll find that out through GM.
Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 07:22:22 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: A/C Panel Troubles

> I just bought a 90 Cutlass Supreme 2 dr, 2.3 Quad-4 with 30K
> about three weeks ago.  I can't get the air conditioning to
> work!  The  blower/fan will work at all four speeds but the
> selector buttons (the a/c, floor, vent, etc) don't seems to
> make any difference.  "Off"  works ok and any other button
> sends the air out the top window vent.
  ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Classic symptom of no vacuum being fed into the HVAC system. The duct 
doors and servos use engine vacuum to operate (hence the wheezing 
noise you sometimes hear when moving the controls). Without vacuum, 
the mechanisms go to their default settings, usually the Defrost mode, 
Heat mode (blowing air out the floor outlets), or both.

You either have messed-up/disconnected vacuum lines under the hood, or 
a very leaky selector valve in the dash. I'm not familiar with the 
control panel that I think you have in your car, but the older slider 
designs had a rotary valve in back that tended to leak after a few 
years; yours may also. Since you said you already had the panel out, 
I'd try unplugging the vacuum line(s) leading in from the engine and 
see if they're drawing vacuum when the engine is running.

If it's a bad rotary valve, those are pretty cheap to replace from the 
dealer.

> I've also confirmed that the a/c compressor is not running
> when I select the a/c button.

Sounds like you'll need a recharge. There's a pressure switch on the 
compressor that prevents it from tearing itself apart if the Freon is 
low. This might be an expensive repair.  :-(  If you're lucky, it 
might just be low from old age rather than a hole in the evaporator, 
condensor or whatever.

- -- Andy

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 10:36:16 -0400
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: A few more questions

3/8" line is approximately equal to -6AN. IMHO you should switch to 1/2"
line. You may or may not need that big, but while you're plumbing, plan for
the future. It would be a pain to do your plumbing ($$$) only to find out
that 3/8" is not enough. I'm running 1/2" aluminum line tank to regulator
(under hood), and then braided -6AN (3/8') to each carb inlet (850 DP)
    -6AN to the nitrous solenoid (200 hp plate).  I'm running the Holley
blue pump as well with dual regulators, one for the nitrous, the other for
carb. I'm also running a -4AN gas return line for cooler pump operating. The
original 1/4" steel line serves this purpose. I am using -4AN line from the
1/4" steel line to the fuel cell (yes, it's a street car).
You can save A LOT of money by using brass fittings instead of the high
dollar speed shop aluminum. Home Depot had almost and brass fitting you
could want for plumbing your car. Using the fancy speed shop stuff can
easily set you back HUNDREDS of dollars by the time you're finished. I used
a mixture of brass and aluminum fittings.

- -----Original Message-----

>A few more questions.
>I intend to strip out the old fuel lines and run new 3/8"  hard line. I
want
>all solid connections hence no rubber inline. I'm looking at all the
>colorful fittings that are AN Fittings. Must tell you I'm pulling a ????
>here as to what size I need to mate up to this 3/8" line. -4AN,  -6AN  ????
>Help!!! Will be tossing mechanical fuel pump for a Holly Blue at 14 psi and
>regulate down to what 7 psi? Opinions? This will not only feed the Holly
>Double Pumper (still need #'s) but branch off to also feed the Wet side of
a
>150 N2O plate system. Shhhh.  Do you think I should bump to 1/2" feed line?
>I will rework the tank P/ U guts to match the draw line size. Should I
mount
>the Electric pump at tank location or up in engine bay for easy access? Of
>course with a sufficient filter mounted between. Who makes a block off
plate
>for the Olds mechanical fuel pump location. I see mostly for Fo*d and Chebb
y
>but no Olds listed. One of these others fit? Orders are going out first
>thing next week so I need to nail all this stuff soon.  I need everything
>fit properly as in the fitting to line size so installation goes smooth and
>quickly. Will my SB FlowTech headers bolt up to the BB 455? Anyone know?? I
>know I will find out but if there is fact no, than I can order appropriate
>right now for the ready in 2 weeks. Otherwise Quincy will sit as parts are
>reordered. Sorry Greg to use the main list but here's where the bulk of
>knowledge I need lives. Mr. Rollin, I've heard you chime in recently about
>the Holly Blue pump and since you run, probably can give me a handle on the
>AN fittings to line issue. Suggest 3/8" or 1/2" and what AN fittings? I'll
>get ahold of GM today to assess the availability of everything required to
>"hook up" a lightning Rods setup to Th200-4R. Isn't this the correct H/O
>Tranny as well for these shifters? Well I'll find that out through GM.
>Gary....
>
>-----Regards,
>
>Gary J. Couse
>Couse Custom's
>
>ICQ# 5209322
>gjcouse@francomm.com
>gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com
>
>Custom Conversion Prototype:
>CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
>http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 10:39:00 -0400
From: "Mitchel L. Young" <mitch@iitek.net>
Subject: re: lojack

I live in South Florida and have a 64 Olds Starfire
convertable with 82000 original miles in unrestored #2
condition. Lojack first told me that it would be another
$100.00 because my wiring is over 10 years old and the fact
that it is in perfect shap is irrelevant.  My insurance
company offers a discount for Lojack so I said ok.  When
they came out to my shop to instll the system they said we
won't install it on anything over 15 years old for any fee.

Mitchel L. Young
A.S.E.  CMAT
1964 Starfire

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 07:50:34 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Cigrette Lighter and other tricks.

> You know... I've only been on the list for a little over a year,
> but I've heard several stories by members or sent by members of
> others who have had their cars stolen...I don't recall of any
> being recovered intact.

Actually I got one of mine back complete with the poipetrators inside.  
:-)

This was my wife's old '78 Grand Prix. Never thought anyone would 
steal it -- it had dents on every side except the roof -- but one 
night two gentlemen from Chicago who wanted to attend a party in Elgin 
decided they'd take it. They busted the steering column and were soon 
on their way.

What they didn't know was that we'd swapped in a junkyard transmission 
with the wrong speedo gear in it, and while trying to mind their own 
business and be discreet at an indicated 55 mph on the Northwest 
Tollway, they actually blew through a speed trap at 75+. (Hey, this 
was a very smooth-riding car. :-) I got a call from the cops at 4:00 
a.m. asking whether I knew a Julio somebody-or-other and his buddy 
Juan something-something, and had I given them permission to drive my 
car? ("Noooo...")

So our insurance paid for a spiffy new steering column in a ratty old 
car (that extra $10 policy rider paid off big-time), and it was only a 
couple of year later that someone _else_ tried _again_, this time 
being scared off by a neighbor before the engine would start.

This was getting silly -- I wasn't going to buy a security system that 
was worth more than this goofy old car -- so I bought a $1.99 12V LED 
from Radio Shack and wired it across the BATT and IGN ports in the 
fusebox (positive lead goes to the BATT terminal) so that it would go 
on whenever I switched the car off. Had it about five more years after 
that and no one messed with the car again. I use the LED trick on all 
my cheaper cars, and so far it has a perfect record.

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 11:43:44 EDT
From: VLHDancer@aol.com
Subject: 68 2 DR HARD TOP

BOTH OF MY WINDSHIELDS LEAK I NEED A FIX. MAYBE A NEW TOP? HELP

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 08:50:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Theft deterrent systems

  I wonder if there's a way to rig the driver's seat so that it shoots
50,000 volts into whoever is in the seat if a certain button isn't held
down or a toggle switch isn't shut off :^)  That would definitely stop
the thief.  Only problem is that one time where you forget to do the
switch thing yourself :^o

Stefan
1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
70Cutlass@Beer.com
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 08:58:32 -0800
From: Tim Nielsen <tnielsen@lucasdigital.com>
Subject: Looking to record mid 50's Olds

Hi there. My name is Tim Nielsen and I work in the San Francisco area at a
company called Skywalker Sound, a post-production sound facility for the movie
industry. For a film we're working on, we're looking to record some sounds
from an early to mid 1950's Oldsmobile (4 door sedan). 

I was hoping that perhaps someone who reads this list has one in the Bay Area,
or knows someone, and could help. It would entail about a half a day, would be
a lot of fun, and your car would get to be in a movie (at least the *sound* of
your car). 

If anyone can offer any help, in any way, whether it be pointers, names, etc,
please contact me. 

Many thanks,

Tim Nielsen - Skywalker Sound
tnielsen@lucasdigital.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 10:43:19 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: 68 2 DR HARD TOP

You should take off the chrome cover on the bottom of the windshield and 
check for rust. That is a common problem leading to leaks. Where does the 
water come in? I don't know about vinyl tops possible role in this. If 
you don't want to check it out yourself, bring it to a reputable body 
shop for diagnosis. Hope this helps, 

George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
- --------------------------------------------------------------

On Thu, 29 Apr 1999 VLHDancer@aol.com wrote:

> BOTH OF MY WINDSHIELDS LEAK I NEED A FIX. MAYBE A NEW TOP? HELP
> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 11:59:11 EDT
From: Oldsfire@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rear Main Seal Part II

Yes  Ford 460 rear main seal will work in 455 Olds!!!

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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 12:14:00 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: No! was: Who needs a belly laugh?

In a message dated 99-04-28 16:37:01 EDT, you write:

<< I'd like to have fuel injectors just before the trumpets but the rear-entry
 fuel tank would seem to preclude this.
 <Olds off>  >>

?????????

!!!!!!!!!

Nothing is over!
NOTHING!

You just don't turn it off!


and....

In other non-Oldsmobile stuffs.

That second car brought to mind the non-Olds film "The Rookie".

Which, though otherwise had few merits, bore the one liners:

"They don't make 'em like that anymore."

and

"The ~real~ criminal is the person who painted that car."

(it was a truly offensive color)

Olds content:

Have recieved a reply from the Oldsmobiler who pronounced the A4 intake 
superior to the W-31 intake.

May well have numbers for the J-2 intake later this year.
Karl measured the intake runner at exit to Cyl head to be similar to the A4's 
exits.

Some shipping required.
Gonna build a special box.

Hmmm.
Does "Anvil" make a intake-sized case?

Anyone?
I know someone out there has a catalogue/pamphlet for Anvil Cases!

At least, could someone forward (privately) their tel #?

SOM

&KA

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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 13:01:05 -0400
From: "Raymond Dowty" <rdowty@CLEMSON.EDU>
Subject: trunk leaking

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My trunk is leaking and I need to replace the rubber sealer/gasket =
(whatever it is technically called; I think that is why it is leaking).  =
Where is the best place to order this from?  I will also need to buy the =
glue or whatever is used as adhesive to install it.
And thanks for the info on the cruise contol.  I checked and cleaned my =
connections (one was undone) and now it works :)
thanks guys,
ray
1970 Oldsmobile 98 Holiday Sedan

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<DIV>My trunk is leaking and I need to replace the rubber sealer/gasket=20
(whatever it is technically called; I think that is why it is =
leaking).&nbsp;=20
Where is the best place to order this from?&nbsp; I will also need to =
buy the=20
glue or whatever is used as adhesive to install it.</DIV>
<DIV>And thanks for the info on the cruise contol.&nbsp; I checked and =
cleaned=20
my connections (one was undone) and now it works :)</DIV>
<DIV>thanks guys,</DIV>
<DIV>ray</DIV>
<DIV>1970 Oldsmobile 98 Holiday Sedan</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 13:45:37 EDT
From: RPTW32@aol.com
Subject: Re: What Holly for 455ci???

In a message dated 4/29/99 9:24:51 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
gjcouse@francomm.com writes:

<< I need the under hood room. I'll
 already lose 1/2" to a N2O plate system. Can't spare any more. So for you
 Holly equipped Olds BB's out there. Tell me what carb your running, Jets
 etc. I need info now to order the carb I'll drop on this.  >>
Gary,
cant speak for the brackets /linkage other that the throttle cable bracket is 
different for holley vs. Q jet but those can be obtained as aftermarket items.
I wouldn't go any lower than a 850 Vac or DP especially if you plan on 
spraying.
You hear tales of carb that are too big all the time but my .030 455 with 
fully ported heads and torker picked up  .2 in ET and 2 mph when I upped from 
855 holley to 1030 cfm. BG.  The factory tripower cars were flowing over 1000 
cfm so you know the motor can use it upstairs. If jetted correctly then the 
motor is only gonna pull in as much air as it can (need) so a little more cfm 
than required is better than not giving enough. ESPECIALLY IF YOUR SPRAYING !!

Rgds,
Rob Thomas
69 442

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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 14:56:43 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: trunk leaking

I think the full-size trunk weatherstrip in those years was similar to
that used on the Cutlass. You can get it almost anywhere they sell resto
parts for these cars, also at places like JC Whitney. It isn't expensive.
It comes in a roll about 20' long, you use a popsicle stick or whatever to
push it into the channel. Before you do that, you clean the channel up
with thinners to get a clean surface (I assume there is no rust, otherwise
fixing that is your first step) and lay in a bead of weatherstrip
adhesive, available almost anywhere. I like the black stuff better than
the yellow. Lay the adhesive, insert the weatherstrip, trim the excess at
the ends (I put the seam at the bottom center of the trunk near the latch)
and close the lid. A few hours later it is well-attached.

Trunk leaks can be also caused by rust in the channel around the rear
window, by faulty body seam sealing, and probably a zillion other things.
The trunk in the Cutlass leaked until I discovered that a lap joint in the
metal weatherstrip channel at the top left corner was not properly
sealed. When I installed new weatherstrip, the adhesive filled the gap,
sealed the seam, and even left me with a neat looking black "icicle"
hanging in my trunk for a few days (the hardened adhevise that had seeped
through the seam before drying). No leaks since.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
 ---- Olds List Admin Instructions found at: http://unsub.tsx.org ----
                http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

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Date: Thu, 29 Apr 1999 10:57:07 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Theft deterrent systems

> I wonder if there's a way to rig the driver's seat so that
> it shoots 50,000 volts into whoever is in the seat if a
> certain button isn't held down or a toggle switch isn't shut
> off :^)  That would definitely stop the thief.

All this talk about zapping drivers, or even anyone who simply touches 
the car from the outside, is fine and dandy, but I can see a couple of 
problems here:

1) Without a good ground path, no one is going to get zapped by 
anything. Simply standing there touching the car with one hand won't 
do it.

2) If you somehow do manage to zap someone,

2a) It'll probably be someone who wasn't supposed to get zapped, such 
as your neighbor's toddler, or (in bad parts of town) a cop who 
stopped to investigate that pile of bodies accumulating next to your 
car

2b) Survivors will promptly hire lawyers and make your life miserable 
for the next few years

- -- Andy

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1932
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