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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1951


oldsmobile-digest        Tuesday, May 11 1999        Volume 01 : Number 1951



Re: Experiences with front end rebuilds?
Re: Good Starfire Weekend
Re: Seat covers
'66 442 Convert for $1500 obo!
Carb Specs
(no subject)
Sanding
Re: (no subject)
Re: Experiences with front end rebuilds?
Re: 66 Starfire Option hunt
Re: Sanding
Voltage Woes
Re: SB OLDS in 80's F body
Re: Sanding
DuPont ChromaBase
Olds Club Mtg 5/11 (Maryland)
W30&Cnvrts F/S
Re: DuPont ChromaBase
Re: (no subject)
RE: (no subject)
Re: (no subject)
Re: (no subject)
Re: Good Starfire Weekend
Re: Question about the 81-85 A4 aluminum intake 
Re: HEI coil - Bad?
Gas Tank Vapor Line
NEW PURCHASE
Re: Voltage Woes
Re: Voltage Woes
Tight Read End!?!
Re: Tight Read End!?!
Magnet losing charge???
Re: Carb thoughts: Question about the 81-85 A4 aluminum intake 
Re: reverb
Re: Gas Tank Vapor Line
Re: DuPont ChromaBase
Delta 88 Vs. Camaro
UNBOUNCE: Carb Specs
Re: Olds Club Mtg 5/11 (Maryland)
Re: Olds Club Mtg 5/11 (Maryland)
Re: flywheel 4-speed
Re: Delta 88 Vs. Camaro
Re: Reverb
motor mounts, 47
PRINTED CIRCUIT
Re: PRINTED CIRCUIT
Re: fuel gauge problem, need help
helloooo & ramblings
Top Ten
Reverbs
Re: Delta 88 Vs. Camaro
1970 H/O was Re: '66 442 Convert for $1500 obo!
Re: helloooo & ramblings

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 19:24:29 -0400
From: Andy Mikesell <andymikesell@mediaone.net>
Subject: Re: Experiences with front end rebuilds?

Thanks Steve, Ben, and Chris for your responses.  I
decided to go with PST's polygraphite "super" front-end
rebuild kit with new springs, shocks, and upgraded sway
bars in both the front and rear.  I'll let everyone know
the results when finished.

One other question:  Has anyone had experiences with the
Monroe Sensi-track shocks?  Edlebrock, KYB, and Monroe all
have these variable load shocks that control the top and
bottom ends of the shock piston travel, but I can't decide
which technology is best for my car.

I am looking to clean-up the really sloppy "boat like"
handling (I know, it may be a pipe dream) and shocks with
variable load engineering seem a logical choice.

Any opinions?

Andy Mikesell wrote:

> I am looking into rebuilding the front end of my Delta
> 88 convertible.  Has anyone on the list had experience
> with the "Polygraphite" replacement kits, and if so,
> were there any drawbacks?
>
> I have heard some vendors say that Polygraphite can
> squeak, but it is  much more firm that the OEM rubber.
>
> Also, does anyone on the list have experiences with
> upgrading their sway bar on a full size car?   Just
> curious if it is worth the extra $120.
>
> - Andy
>
> --
> http://people.ne.mediaone.net/andymikesell

- --
http://people.ne.mediaone.net/andymikesell

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 19:24:53 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Good Starfire Weekend

>
>Here are the symptoms
>1) only happens when the car is warmed up
>2) it's like one cylinder just cuts out, feels like it's not getting spark,
>but I don't think that's it because you can't feel it miss in the higher
RPM
>ranges. Could be rev's covering a problem though.

That'd be my guess, exactly. Plugs / wires / cap & rotor before even
thinking about touching the carb.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 18:30:28 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Seat covers

just to add alittle to this thread to cut foam just use an electric carving
knife works great
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Chris Rivier <crivier@hotmail.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 1999 4:01 PM
Subject: RE: Seat covers


> Hi all and Chris F.,
>
> No, I haven't found an exact match, yet.  I found several aftermarket seat
> covers.  Most have alternating wide and small quilted ribs (2",1/2").
From
> the samples I have recieved both McCullough's and Marathon seem to have
the
> same upholstery material supplier, Viking quilt.
>
> Both are about the same price.  They claim to be pattern cut to fit but
not
> OEM.  So, they are patterned to fit, not patterned to match exactly.  They
> both come with a hog ring pliers and hog rings.
>
> If you are interested in upholstering your car, here are a few tips.
>
> My neighbors, where I grew up ,were upholsterers, so I have done this
> before.  It is pretty easy to do.  Like most car projects, you just have
to
> have patience.  First take the seats out.  Check the springs for broken or
> bent springs and where they are fastened to the seat frame.  If you don't
> have broken springs you will not have to rebuild the whole seat.
>
> Replace any foam that is missing or severely damaged.  It is readily
> available at your local upholstery or fabric shop.  The foams made today
are
> better and come in different densities.  High density foam goes in butt
> areas and the lighter airier foams in the knee areas.  Super77 spray is a
> great adhesive to hold foam in place.  Cut foam with a sharp utility knife
> or a hot wire (hanger will do).
>
> It is a good idea use a  muslin or cotton cloth to hold foam in place.  It
> will also keep the seat cover from having friction directly with foam.  It
> will allow the foam and seat cover to slide over each other and allow the
> foam to breath.  Tie or sew it down in to place.  If all this is done you
> will now have buckets or bench seats ready to upholster.  Sit in them and
> see if they feel comfortable.  Now is the time to add that extra lumbar
> support, if you haven't already.
>
> Ok, your set.  Toss your seat covers in the dryer at low heat or leave
them
> outside in the sun.  You need them soft, supple, and able to stretch.  Get
a
> few trash bags or plastic grocery bags for this next part.  Now that your
> seat covers are warm and supple, put the trash bags over the seats.  Then
> stretch the seat covers over the seats.  The trash bags slide and will
make
> it easier to stretch the seat covers over the seats.  Pull and align the
> covers.  For most, do the bottom of the seats first then the top.  Use hog
> rings to mount to frame.  Try not to stretch the upholstery too much.  It
> should be taught not overly stretched.  It will shrink over time.  So if
it
> is overly stretched it will tear easier as it shrinks.
>
> Marathon Seat Covers
> 520 West Griffin Dr.
> Bozeman, MT 59715
> 406-587-4001
> marathon@avicom.net
>
> McCullough's
> 15102 Bolsa Chica,unit A1
> Huntington Beach,CA 92649
> 1-800-395-9624
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Chris Rivier
>
>
> _______________________________________________________________
> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 17:57:25 -0600
From: "Blaine S." <blaines@strata3d.com>
Subject: '66 442 Convert for $1500 obo!

Had to pass this along, cuz it looks like a great deal... sorry if this
offends anyone.

http://www.traderonline.com/cgi-bin/coll/apps/search/photdisp.html?photo=000
16098509&phoneId=5124419717&ad=62216331&status=no&imgsite=&page=search&pstat
=P

The ad says it's a '70 Hurst, but it's actually a '66 442 Convertible, and
it looks really straight.  So if anyone is looking for a cheap '66 442
convert to restore in the Austin, Texas area, check it out.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 19:18:18 -0500
From: Tom L Patchen <patch001@maroon.tc.umn.edu>
Subject: Carb Specs

    I'm trying to find someone who has information on the stock Q-jet
carburetor for a 1971 442 W-30 w/ air conditioning and an automatic
transmission. The engine is bone stock as the car is a restored
collector car. The carb # is 7041257  RG  0701.
I'm pretty sure that this the correct carb for the drivetrain in this
car. I do need to find out what primary jets, secondary metering rods
and metering rod hanger are supposed to be in this carb. It presently
has #69 jets, AT metering rods and a G hanger installed.

    I would very much appreciate any help that someone can offer. Maybe
someone out there has a 1971 Oldsmobile "build book" or "service manual"
that they could check.

    Thanks,

    Tom

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 20:38:17 EDT
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: (no subject)

At a local swap meet I was able to pick up a Motorola Reverb Unit. I remember 
having one of these years ago, but don't remember how it hooks up. Would 
anyone on the list know how this hooks up? Do they even make these any more?
Thanks,
Jim McKeague
1970 Rallye 350
1970 Cutlass S W-31

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 20:41:28 EDT
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: Sanding

	I am really afraid to do some wet sanding because I know that it will 
dull the finish. Has anyone had any experience with this? I don't want to 
mess up and have to repaint.
	Also, I have a few hardened drops of clear. Someone told me I could 
take them off with a razor blade. Will this work?
Could somebody please give me some tips on wetsanding?
Thanks,
Jim McKeague

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 20:50:12 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: (no subject)

Ahhhh....whats a reverb unit?
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <DROLDS350@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Cc: <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 1999 8:38 PM
Subject: (no subject)


> At a local swap meet I was able to pick up a Motorola Reverb Unit. I
remember
> having one of these years ago, but don't remember how it hooks up. Would
> anyone on the list know how this hooks up? Do they even make these any
more?
> Thanks,
> Jim McKeague
> 1970 Rallye 350
> 1970 Cutlass S W-31
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 20:56:30 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Experiences with front end rebuilds?

cool dude.   The only thing I did not like about the super front end kit is
the compression sleeves that hold the outer tie rod ends in place.  They are
rather cheesie at best.  If your old ones are in good shape use them
instead.   Other wise PST is the one to go with.  I have used the KYB
shocks,  and I like them.  PST also made my springs for me.  1 inch lower
then stock.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Andy Mikesell <andymikesell@mediaone.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 1999 7:24 PM
Subject: Re: Experiences with front end rebuilds?


> Thanks Steve, Ben, and Chris for your responses.  I
> decided to go with PST's polygraphite "super" front-end
> rebuild kit with new springs, shocks, and upgraded sway
> bars in both the front and rear.  I'll let everyone know
> the results when finished.
>
> One other question:  Has anyone had experiences with the
> Monroe Sensi-track shocks?  Edlebrock, KYB, and Monroe all
> have these variable load shocks that control the top and
> bottom ends of the shock piston travel, but I can't decide
> which technology is best for my car.
>
> I am looking to clean-up the really sloppy "boat like"
> handling (I know, it may be a pipe dream) and shocks with
> variable load engineering seem a logical choice.
>
> Any opinions?
>
> Andy Mikesell wrote:
>
> > I am looking into rebuilding the front end of my Delta
> > 88 convertible.  Has anyone on the list had experience
> > with the "Polygraphite" replacement kits, and if so,
> > were there any drawbacks?
> >
> > I have heard some vendors say that Polygraphite can
> > squeak, but it is  much more firm that the OEM rubber.
> >
> > Also, does anyone on the list have experiences with
> > upgrading their sway bar on a full size car?   Just
> > curious if it is worth the extra $120.
> >
> > - Andy
> >
> > --
> > http://people.ne.mediaone.net/andymikesell
>
> --
> http://people.ne.mediaone.net/andymikesell
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 20:52:53 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: 66 Starfire Option hunt

Chris Fair wrote:
 
> 2) Cruise control. This was a particularly goofy two way reversible motor
> which drove a rod connecting to the throttle. Found on 65-66 88/98/Starfires
> with auto tranny's. I'm looking for the whole unit -- interior speed wheel
> and control switch, motor & rods, special cruise to wheel/cruise to speedo
> cables, & electrical harness. They killed this design after 66. My guess is
> Olds found the more common vacuum setup a better design.

Sorry Chris,  my '67 uses this setup.  And goofy isn't the word for it. 
I think they switched to vacuum in '69.

> 5) Autronic eye system. This is the extra-space-alien eyeball thingy that
> sat on top of the dash looking way out of place. Basically it was an
> automatic headlight dimmer. I think it was an advanced version of the system
> C*ddil*c introduced in about 1957.

Watch your mouth.  Oldsmobile introduced this option in '52!  And, it
was called the Autronic Eye in the early years.  You want a Guide-Matic
system. :)

> Wouldn't it be great if I could actually get some of this stuff?

My favorite junkyard '66 Starfire has vacuum door locks, but I think
someone removed one of the doors...

Oh!  You could convert to Comfortron A/C, too!

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 21:01:04 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Sanding

To wet sand use lots o water!  The clear will come off with sanding.  Use
1000 or 1500 grit paper.  Some folks like to soak the sand paper over night
to make it softer.  It is very important to use a block while sanding.  If
you dont get carried away with it you will be fine.  Just buff it with a
mild buffing compound after sanding if needed.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <DROLDS350@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Cc: <DROLDS350@aol.com>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 1999 8:41 PM
Subject: Sanding


> I am really afraid to do some wet sanding because I know that it will
> dull the finish. Has anyone had any experience with this? I don't want to
> mess up and have to repaint.
> Also, I have a few hardened drops of clear. Someone told me I could
> take them off with a razor blade. Will this work?
> Could somebody please give me some tips on wetsanding?
> Thanks,
> Jim McKeague
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 20:21:47 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Voltage Woes

Well checked my ground on the car and cleaned them off. The external
voltage regulator pumps out about 14.5 - 15.40 for the first 15 minutes or
less of driving. When the engine warms up and the car has been driven for
10 - 15 minutes it will put out 13.90 (idle) to 14.50 while driving with no
lights or accessories on. 

The Auto Meter volt gauge seems to be real sensitive to changes. While
driving with the lights on the gauge will say 14.0 - 14.3 volts. When I
come to a stop it will read 13.80 to 14.00. The area where I don't know if
I got a problem or not is that at idle the gauge will jump 1 volt and then
come back, real quickly at times. This happens within a split second. I
don't know if this is normal or not with an external voltage regulator with
a cam that is rough at idle (JM 4-5). Should this be of concern or should I
be OK?

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 19:20:07 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: SB OLDS in 80's F body

> My friend just bough a '88
> IROC-Z with a TBI 305 and 700R-4.  I like the car but the motor leaves much
> to be desired.  Thanks.

The SB Olds shouldn't be any problem, you'll have to change the lower motor
mounts, though.  Most likely, at least.  FWIW, I looked at a mid 80's camaro
last night, had the engine out, (Was sb chev) with 5 speed.  The bellhousing 
was
a uni-pattern, and would accept chev ~or~ BOP.  Certainly got ~my~ curiosity
up!  Made me want to take it home and ~strip it~!!!  :)  (He didn't like that
idea, though.......  go figure ;)

- -- 
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://drive.to/Oldsmagnet    See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 20:26:56 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Sanding

Well I would use 2000 grit wet sand paper and ALOT of water. Keep the paper
wet or you will burn the clear and touch the paint. Then you will have to
spray clear again. IT can be risky. THe finish will then have to be buffed
out with buffing compound to get it shiny again. Sand in smooth even flows.

If you have never done it, I wouldn't try it on a new paint job unless you
are not worried about goofing up....
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: DROLDS350@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Cc: DROLDS350@aol.com
> Subject: Sanding
> Date: Monday, May 10, 1999 7:41 PM
> 
> 	I am really afraid to do some wet sanding because I know that it 
will 
> dull the finish. Has anyone had any experience with this? I don't want to

> mess up and have to repaint.
> 	Also, I have a few hardened drops of clear. Someone told me I could 
> take them off with a razor blade. Will this work?
> Could somebody please give me some tips on wetsanding?
> Thanks,
> Jim McKeague

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 20:32:42 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: DuPont ChromaBase

I was wondering if using DuPont ChromaBase (Base coat/clear coat) if it was
alright to wet sand after 3 1/2 - 4 hours. The clear sat in the direct
sunlight for those 3 1/2 - 4 hours. On the can it said that it could be wet
sanded after force drying it at 140*F for 2 hours. Or at normal conditions
it could be wet sanded 4-5 hours. The metal on the car gets pretty hot in
the sun. 140* - 150* at the metal surface is common in the direct sun. 

What would happen if you wet sanded before it dried completely? Or would it
not even wet sand if it was not dry?
Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 21:48:41 -0400
From: "Brad Nicholson" <brad442@mdo.net>
Subject: Olds Club Mtg 5/11 (Maryland)

Next meeting of the Oldsmobile Centennial Club is Tuesday May 11 at Ernie
Swanson Oldsmobile, 410 N Crain Hwy, Glen Burnie, MD.  Starts @ 7pm, snacks
start at 6:30.  Everyone welcome.

Brad Nicholson
President - Olds Centennial Club
brad442@mdo.net
http://www.mdo.net/users/brad442/occ

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 22:07:09 -0400
From: J&T <tjf26@gte.net>
Subject: W30&Cnvrts F/S

Usual disclaimers apply.
I was driving around in my 71 442 today when I see 2 Olds for sale at a
garage. I stopped to look and one looks to be an original 70 W/30. Other
was a 69 convertible Cutlass S. A kid comes out and says they are all
for sale. Including the 2 70 Cutlass convertibles in the shop. He gave
me the owners card and said to call him for prices. This is all I know
about the cars. All 4 looked to be in really good shape. I looked mainly
at the 442. From what I saw, it is a hardtop coupe. I couldn't see the
vin because it was in a shadow. It has the correct rear bumper, no
trumpets, Rally Pack, SSI wheels, 4 speed, red inner fender, W-30
aluminum intake, F heads, OAI hood. Air cleaner, hood pins and head
lights were removed. The kid said the owner has them but he took them
off so they wouldn't get stolen. It looked to have a new paint job.
Turquoise green color. Interior looked nice. Engine compartment was
clean. The two 70 converts looked solid and original also. Same with the
69 convert. If any one is interested in these cars the guys name is
Grant Rose. (440) 886-5501. 7179 W. 130th street, Parma Heights, Ohio
44130. His shop is called Lightning Auto Service. Oh yea, the kid also
said Grant had some more Oldsmobiles at his house but he didn't know
what kinds. There was also a pretty nice looking 66 GTO convert there
too for sale.
This isn't a car dealership. The guy owns a auto service shop.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 22:10:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: vfquick442@webtv.net (markas)
Subject: Re: DuPont ChromaBase

Risky business trying to rub out a paint job if you have never done it.
There are a lot of things that can go wrong. I would get a pro to
assist.Good Luck!

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 22:14:05 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: (no subject)

In a message dated 5/10/99 8:45:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time, meso@pamlico.net 
writes:

<< Ahhhh....whats a reverb unit? >>

I guess you didn't grow up in the 60's.  It was a popular option for the 
radio.  Kind of made the sound echo.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 22:21:48 -0400
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: (no subject)

What's that for?  A CB?  


Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 3.8 Calais
Bucks County, PA
mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo


> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of DROLDS350@aol.com
> Sent: Monday, May 10, 1999 8:38 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Cc: DROLDS350@aol.com
> Subject: (no subject)
> 
> 
> At a local swap meet I was able to pick up a Motorola Reverb 
> Unit. I remember 
> having one of these years ago, but don't remember how it hooks up. Would 
> anyone on the list know how this hooks up? Do they even make 
> these any more?
> Thanks,
> Jim McKeague
> 1970 Rallye 350
> 1970 Cutlass S W-31
> 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 22:26:53 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: (no subject)

steve harris wrote:
> 
> Ahhhh....whats a reverb unit?

Poor man's stereo.  The signal to the rear speaker was delayed, causing
an echo effect, like a concert hall.  Supposedly gave a stereo-like
effect.  I've never heard one.  There was a knob under the dash to
regulate the delay and an amplifier in the trunk.

This option was offered from '63 to '66 and was discontinued when stereo
radios were introduced in '67.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 22:23:52 -0400
From: "Randy Geisel" <Rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: (no subject)

> What's that for?  A CB?  

Your car (or home) stereo. 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 22:37:56 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Good Starfire Weekend

Chris Fair wrote:
> 
> I have a funny intermittant
> miss at idle that feels like a carb problem to me. Comments welcome. 
 
> Here are the symptoms
> 1) only happens when the car is warmed up
> 2) it's like one cylinder just cuts out, feels like it's not getting spark,
> but I don't think that's it because you can't feel it miss in the higher RPM
> ranges. Could be rev's covering a problem though.
> 3) it misses enough to make the tach show an RPM drop.

My '67 does this too, tho I don't have a tach to monitor.  But it does
miss and there is no rhyme or reason.  Doesn't even seem like it's
always the same cylinder.  Then, sometimes, it won't do it at all. 
Maybe it's the ghost of R.E.O.?  Or of Charles Kettering...

Dave Cullen wrote:
  
> That'd be my guess, exactly. Plugs / wires / cap & rotor before even
> thinking about touching the carb.

Done all that, plus points and condenser, still doesn't go away.  But
I'm gonna to all that AGAIN before I leave for Texas, so we'll see if it
makes an improvement.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 23:17:29 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: Question about the 81-85 A4 aluminum intake 

>   Ok, there was a string a while back about these things.  I believe I
> have found one in a local yard.  They want $35 (including carb).  It's
> in an '83 Delta 88.  Here's my question... How would I go about putting
> this thing on my 70 Cutlass?  I've never done an intake swap, but I've
> heard it's not that difficult. 

I've done the swap, didn't notice and performance difference, but then of
course I did loose something like 40lbs off the front end.  One problem I
ran into is that the EGR boss comes up pretty high and with interfere with
the linkage on just about anything except a Quadrabog.  I ground it down
with a grinder to make a AFB fit.

> that's on that intake, or maybe buying an Edelbrock or Holly 650.  

The stock 83 carb will most likely be a E4ME electronic carb which won't
work for your stock 70.   Either use your existing quadrajet, but see my 
note above. 

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    -->   bob@tecmark.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 23:23:05 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: HEI coil - Bad?

On Mon, 10 May 1999, Mike Bloomer wrote:

> Here's the deal, I put an HEI in my 68 Supreme yesterday and
> the car idles fine but it just doesn't have much power when you
> get on it.  The timing is set to 23 degrees initial 

That sounds like a ton of initial timing...

> of 32 degrees in by about 1500 rpm. 

And more coming in quite early.

> My question is what is the testing procedure for the coil?  

There is a resistance check, but it's usually easier to substitute another
one or a new one.   There are two coils, one with a red & white wire, one
with a yellow & red wire - I don't know the difference, but your're not
supposed to mix them.  Why I don't know.... since there's only one
replacement module sold.

On that subject, make sure you've got a real GM module - some of the
aftermarket (KEM, Standard, ect) don't seem to work as well as real GM.  

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    -->   bob@tecmark.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 22:31:13 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Gas Tank Vapor Line

On my 72 442 ocnvertible there is a vapor return line from the gas tank
that is supposed to hook up to the charcoal canister. I removed the
canister from the vehicle. THe gas tank cap does not seal either so the
vapor escapes from there. Would it be OK to plug the line where it goes
into the engine compartment? If this line is left open, is it a potential
hazard?

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 23:38:24 -0400
From: Dan Higgins <jeter@acadia.net>
Subject: NEW PURCHASE

HI ALL,
I AM ENJOYING A CUTLESS OLDS CONVERTIBLE. PLEASE ALLOW ME TO ENJOY YOUR
INFO.
PASS IT ON!
TAMMILEE HIGGINS
TAMILE@ACADIA.NET

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 23:05:46 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Voltage Woes

I would say everything would be fine, though 15.4V is a bit on the high
side.  Since it drops down, though, it's not going to boil the battery.
The voltage output will usually drop some at idle with a stock system
and even more with elect. accesories on.  With the large cam, I would
suspect that your voltage regulator is having trouble keeping up with
a constatly changing electrical output from the alternator.  As the engine
speed increases with the lope of the cam, the alternator will put out more
voltage, but when the idle speed slows down the alternator puts out less.
Sounds like the regulator is trying to even all this out but has kind of a
time delay where it's accenting the fluctuation instead of smoothing it out.
An internally regulated alternator would do a better job but aside from
peace of mind, there's no real reason to switch.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

>Well checked my ground on the car and cleaned them off. The external
>voltage regulator pumps out about 14.5 - 15.40 for the first 15 minutes or
>less of driving. When the engine warms up and the car has been driven for
>10 - 15 minutes it will put out 13.90 (idle) to 14.50 while driving with no
>lights or accessories on.
>
>The Auto Meter volt gauge seems to be real sensitive to changes. While
>driving with the lights on the gauge will say 14.0 - 14.3 volts. When I
>come to a stop it will read 13.80 to 14.00. The area where I don't know if
>I got a problem or not is that at idle the gauge will jump 1 volt and then
>come back, real quickly at times. This happens within a split second. I
>don't know if this is normal or not with an external voltage regulator with
>a cam that is rough at idle (JM 4-5). Should this be of concern or should I
>be OK?
>
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 23:33:42 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Voltage Woes

The 15.4 volts is not a steady 15.4 volts, but a quick second jump to that
reading. Then it will go back to the 14 volt range. EIther way, 15.4 volts
is not harmful, is it? 

I heard MAD Enterprises makes a kit that will change from external to
internal coltage regulators. IT goes for $25.00. Is it worth the $$ to
change it? I would also have to get a different alternator...

Pettrix@prodigy.net


- ----------
> From: Mike Bloomer <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Voltage Woes
> Date: Monday, May 10, 1999 11:05 PM
> 
> I would say everything would be fine, though 15.4V is a bit on the high
> side.  Since it drops down, though, it's not going to boil the battery.
> The voltage output will usually drop some at idle with a stock system
> and even more with elect. accesories on.  With the large cam, I would
> suspect that your voltage regulator is having trouble keeping up with
> a constatly changing electrical output from the alternator.  As the
engine
> speed increases with the lope of the cam, the alternator will put out
more
> voltage, but when the idle speed slows down the alternator puts out less.
> Sounds like the regulator is trying to even all this out but has kind of
a
> time delay where it's accenting the fluctuation instead of smoothing it
out.
> An internally regulated alternator would do a better job but aside from
> peace of mind, there's no real reason to switch.
> 
> Mike Bloomer
> mbloomer@mindspring.com
> ICQ# 19113713
> http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 23:37:45 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Tight Read End!?!

I have a Chevy 12 Bolt rear in my car. It is a posi unit with C-Clip
eliminators. It was set on the tighter side. Meaning that when I am making
a turn it may sometimes make the tire squeal due to it not un-locking
completely. IT doesn't always do it but sometimes. The shop that did it is
a very reputable shop and they said it is not bad for it to do that. When
making a sharp turn it will always disengage. The turns that are more wider
is when it will stay locked. Any comments on this??

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 23:38:38 -0500
From: Stephen Hoover <shang@connect.net>
Subject: Re: Tight Read End!?!

My Corporate 10 bolt is setup the same way, get a little noise around
shallow corners. The reason for this is because there is less force
being applied to the clutches around shallow corners than sharp corners,
thus less force the make the clutches slip. Obviously the "tightness" of
the rear end is to make the posi more effective in the straight aways,
as the clutch type posi is not exactly the most positive locking design
out there.

Stephen Hoover
Dallas, Texas
'70 Supreme

Peter Landowski wrote:
> 
> I have a Chevy 12 Bolt rear in my car. It is a posi unit with C-Clip
> eliminators. It was set on the tighter side. Meaning that when I am making
> a turn it may sometimes make the tire squeal due to it not un-locking
> completely. IT doesn't always do it but sometimes. The shop that did it is
> a very reputable shop and they said it is not bad for it to do that. When
> making a sharp turn it will always disengage. The turns that are more wider
> is when it will stay locked. Any comments on this??
> 
> Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 23:14:56 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Magnet losing charge???

Well, 'twas a sad weekend for the Oldsmagnet...  Had a close friend back home
graduate college, and will be leaving tomorrow for Salt Lake City, so I went to
help him get ready to go, and see them off, etc etc etc...  Also had plans on
picking up my last remaining car up there (300 miles away) and some other odds
and ends I'd had still stashed their at another friend's parents' farm...  My
buddy there had his 69 Cutlass, and was trying to sell it, for more than I was
able to give for it, but it was decided if it didn't sell, I'd be taking ~it~
home, instead of my POS ford...  (Which is why I left it in the ~first~
place....)   

Background, first.  Friday, after work:  Have to drive Teaser to the farm (120
miles one-way) and then get the truck, come ~back~ home, to get the trailer, go
~back~ to the farm, to drop off the car that was still on the trailer, and
~then~ be able to make my journey.  So, Sat. 5:30 AM, here's the 'Magnet,
pushing the shell of the Toro off the trailer, about 35 deg, with some cold a##
wind going on.  Sucked.  Get trailer empty, bedtime, ~400 miles so far.  Sat.
Noon.  70 deg, slight tailwind.  Cool.  300 miles later, get to Havre.  Eat,
play the social game for an hour or so, start working in shop.  Cleaning,
packing, and building (almost literally) an 87 Honda Accord.  (We did pretty
well there ;)  3:30AM, we have the front clip mostly together.  (House has to 
be
empty by Tuesday...  Good luck!)  Bedtime.  Sunday, 11:00 AM.  Go outside,
realize it musta rained a few feet over the course of the morning, since
~everything's~ soaked.  Realize I'm ~not~ getting my EXP, since the road to it
is barely passable dry, and ~any~ rain makes it impossible to get to.  So, I
give up on that idea.  Back to the shop.  It's like 35 deg. outside, no heater
in the shop, so we're shooting panels with hair driers and heat lamps trying to
get paint to stick to it.  We ~did~ manage to get 'em primered well.  All the
while we're waiting for this mystery guy to show up and look at the Cutlass. 
Rob's wife is hoping he shows soon, I'm hoping he doesn't...  It took him a
while, but he finally said "I'll take it" so I quietly said something else 
under
my breath.....  So, I started wonderring ~what~ I'd take home...  Spent a while
trying to find the 83 H/O that was recently crunched up in Havre
(@#%^@#%&@@!!!!!  Of course, she made it six months longer than ~I'd~ expected
her to...  figured she'd wreck it in six months, it took her a year....) 
Couldn't find it.  

Long story short, I spent like 7 hours on the road just to be able to bring the
trailer...  And I bring it back home ~empty~  Ouch.  But, I ~did~ inherit a 
lawn
mower, weedeater, shop vac, dishwasher, a bunch of rims, and a minor selection
of other odds and ends that wouldn't fit in the U-haul...  :)  But an empty
trailer.  With hopes of finding ~something~ worthwile to put on it, somewhere 
on
the way home.  Nothing though.  300 miles of near-freezing rain, and snow. 
Yeah, you read that right.  I got home around 7:00 AM today, and by noon, the
pickup, contents, and empty trailer were all coverred in that cold white
%@#$%@.  

I've got to get this calender virus cured, though, because according to this
computer, it's @$#^$!$^ MAY.  Go figure.  Middle of May, and we're coverred in
snow.

Sorry, venting...  </VENT>

So anyhow...  The Oldsmagnet ~almost~ took this car home
http://members.xoom.com/_XOOM/SuperOlds/burnout/robburn1tn.jpg
but lost out at the last minute.  No big deal, but I was starting to get
attached...  Not like I have ~any~ need for one, but ~still~!  ;)

FWIW, the guy that bought it has plans to put his fresh 69 Toro 455 and his 4
speed in this Cutlass.  Which is cool.  But wants to hack out the A/C and vinyl
top.  Which I'm not so much in favor of.  But it's going to an appreciative
home, so I can't gripe.  Just a kicker that I drove the 400 extra miles for
nothing, as it turns out.  Who'd have known, though.

Also told the guy there was one request with that car, though.  Told him one of
these days, when he gets it done, there'd be a 2-tone green mid-80's Cutlass
running around that's ~gonna~ want to race him...  I didn't give him much more
information than that ;)
  
- -- 
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://drive.to/Oldsmagnet    See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 00:44:24 -0600
From: "Jeff Newman" <newsance@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Carb thoughts: Question about the 81-85 A4 aluminum intake 

"Your rebuild would necessitate removing any CCC related materials, which
prolly involves lotsa solenoids, and such, possibly a throttle position
sensor, not to mention sealing the vacc line for the EGR pump.
Then it might work."

I don't belive this is possible, removing the ccc parts from a feedback
quadrajet. The internals, while very similar, ARE different, for example,
the entire power piston/main metering rods assembly is replaced by the
mixture control soleniod, there is extra "wells" for the tps sensor, as well
as the plug for the mc solenoid.

Just pick up a non-feedback quadra from a junkyard and rebuild that...

- -----Original Message-----
From: KarlAunan@aol.com <KarlAunan@aol.com>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, May 10, 1999 10:19 AM
Subject: Carb thoughts: Question about the 81-85 A4 aluminum intake


>In a message dated 99-05-09 22:36:06 EDT, you write:
>
><<  I've never done an intake swap, but I've heard it's not that difficult.
>I'd be either rebuilding the carb that's on that intake, or maybe buying an
>Edelbrock or Holly 650. >>
>
>The toughest part can be removing it from the donor car.
>
>Nothing quite so fun as an off-balance dead lift against a well-sealed
>intake, not fun with the cast iron BB jobs.
>
>Have not heard much praise for the 305 quadrajets.
>The only advantage possible is that it should have "71"or "72" jets and a
"J"
>hanger which are fairly common for 350s, and the secondary rods could work
on
>your application.
>Your rebuild would necessitate removing any CCC related materials, which
>prolly involves lotsa solenoids, and such, possibly a throttle position
>sensor, not to mention sealing the vacc line for the EGR pump.
>Then it might work.
>Maybe.
>OTOH, for $10 over the cost of the intake, you get the hanger you will need
>and the jets that you might want later. Mebbe.
>
>The FAQ shows 69 and 70 jets for 1970 applications.
>Bigger jets will be needed if you cam up though....
>
>Best bet, look for a pre-1975 Qjet.
>On the 1973-1974 you need only seal off EGR and re-rod.
>1975 introduced some other complicated internals that best not discussed.
>(due to ignorance)
>
>SOM
>
>&KA
>

________________________________________________________
NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet.  Shouldn't you?
Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 02:52:01 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: reverb

lololololo :)  I am happy to see that I am not alone in my ignorance.  I
think I remember reading about them.  thx
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 1999 10:26 PM
Subject: Re: (no subject)


> steve harris wrote:
> >
> > Ahhhh....whats a reverb unit?
>
> Poor man's stereo.  The signal to the rear speaker was delayed, causing
> an echo effect, like a concert hall.  Supposedly gave a stereo-like
> effect.  I've never heard one.  There was a knob under the dash to
> regulate the delay and an amplifier in the trunk.
>
> This option was offered from '63 to '66 and was discontinued when stereo
> radios were introduced in '67.
>
> Paul
> --
> Paul Hartlieb
> Myerstown, PA
> mailto:plh@nbn.net
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 02:57:26 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Gas Tank Vapor Line

It could be a potential hazard.  The best thing to do is to get a new
canister and hook it up,  and get a gas cap that fits tightly.
The system is not just for emissions.  It is also part of the anti-vapor
lock system.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 1999 11:31 PM
Subject: Gas Tank Vapor Line


> On my 72 442 ocnvertible there is a vapor return line from the gas tank
> that is supposed to hook up to the charcoal canister. I removed the
> canister from the vehicle. THe gas tank cap does not seal either so the
> vapor escapes from there. Would it be OK to plug the line where it goes
> into the engine compartment? If this line is left open, is it a potential
> hazard?
>
> Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 01:56:15 -0500 (CDT)
From: blue442@webtv.net (Jeff Carter)
Subject: Re: DuPont ChromaBase

If it's still not fully cured, it'll clump up on the paper and gouge the
paint.  I've never used the ChromaBase paint, but you'll be better off
waiting a few weeks.  It will be much harder by then.  And yes, I am a
procrastinator.  8-)

Jeff Carter

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 01:35:14 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Delta 88 Vs. Camaro

Like I said yesterday my friend got his '88 Camaro IROC-Z recently with a
305, TH700, 2.73s, TBI, etc.  The 305 has very low milage on a rebuild and
runs great.  I raced him with my '81 Delta (with a 455) today.  After
absolutely disapearing I did not belive that he was even trying so I made
him drive my car and I drove the Camaro.  It was at night, in the country at
a trafic light and NO ONE around so it was perfect.  The speed limit was 55
MPH and we raced to 75 MPH (no point any more).  When I drive, I manually
shift at 4500 RPM but when the car is left in D then it shifts at about 3800
RPM (WOT) and if you so much as spin the tires a bit (1/4 throtle) and then
ease off it shifts into second gear and goes from there.  He left it in D
and exactly that happend.  Literarly 5 feet in first and then shift into
second with very lousy traction.  STILL, my Delta pulled away in second gear
like an aircraft of a catapult.  It literarly got more then 1/8 mile
distance in a flash.  Just gone, and I was really getting onto the Camaro
but nothing.  I can't belive that a almost stock 455 in a about 800 pound
heavier car with worst geering can woop a Camaro like that.  IT IS A CAMARO.
I can't see how even a 350 can help much.  I think he needs a 350 with
4.10s, the 700 trans and headers in order to beat me (none of which I have).
My other friend has a '86 Cutlass with a 305, 200-4R and 2.73s and the
Camaro can beat him no problem.  So, I KNOW IT IS A CHEVY SO NO discusion
about that PLEASE, but what the hell could he do to keep up with me and
still run the stock 305.  I am asking because I would like to get a
Camaro/Trans Am of that vintage but really hate the power.  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 06:24:18 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Carb Specs

Not on the list; respond to patch001@maroon.tc.umn.edu if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Tom L Patchen <patch001@maroon.tc.umn.edu>
Subject: Carb Specs

    I'm trying to find someone who has information on the stock Q-jet
carburetor for a 1971 442 W-30 w/ air conditioning and an automatic
transmission. The engine is bone stock as the car is a restored
collector car. The carb # is 7041257  RG  0701.
I'm pretty sure that this the correct carb for the drivetrain in this
car. I do need to find out what primary jets, secondary metering rods
and metering rod hanger are supposed to be in this carb. It presently
has #69 jets, AT metering rods and a G hanger installed.

    I would very much appreciate any help that someone can offer. Maybe
someone out there has a 1971 Oldsmobile "build book" or "service manual"
that they could check.

    Thanks,

    Tom

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 06:48:08 EDT
From: HURSTOLDS3@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds Club Mtg 5/11 (Maryland)

Do you know anything about the All Olds Car Show that will be held there??

Steve
83 H/O

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 08:25:37 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds Club Mtg 5/11 (Maryland)

In a message dated 05/11/1999 6:49:36 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
HURSTOLDS3@aol.com writes:

<< Do you know anything about the All Olds Car Show that will be held there?? 
>>

Here's the info I think you're looking for -

Next meeting of the Oldsmobile Centennial Club is Tuesday May 11 at Ernie
Swanson Oldsmobile, 410 N Crain Hwy, Glen Burnie, MD.  Starts @ 7pm, snacks
start at 6:30.  Everyone welcome.

Brad Nicholson
President - Olds Centennial Club
brad442@mdo.net
http://www.mdo.net/users/brad442/occ


Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 05:44:48 -0700
From: jclayworth@mindspring.com
Subject: Re: flywheel 4-speed

saw your ad for a w-31 flywheel-don't have one but am also a fellow w-31
crazed owner.i love my small block-bought one new in 1970-lost my mind in
'75 during a divorce and gave it to the little woman so i could keep a new
porsche-what a mistake-found a beautiful black on black in penn nov'98 after
14 years of looking-still would like to find my original-don't have a
VIN-purchased new in oregon oct of 1969-sold in livermore,ca in
1975-sherwood green/black top and interior/4-speed
tell me about your w-31

jim clayworth,RPh
Dr.W-31
5944 ascot drive
oakland,ca 94611
- -----Original Message-----
From: stephen minore <steven.minore@snet.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, May 03, 1999 3:13 PM
Subject: flywheel 4-speed


>Hey guys,
>
>I am desperatly looking for a good used 4-speed flywheel for my 70
>cutlass W-31. I put an ad on here some time ago and got one respose, but
>that deal fell through my hands because I let a considerable time go
>by!!!!
>Now i am looking again.
>
>any help would be greatly appreciated,
>
>thanks!!!!!!
>
>Stephen Minore 70 W-31 FREAK!!!!!!!!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 09:10:34 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Delta 88 Vs. Camaro

He could try some 3:73 gears and wave bye-bye to the gas milage
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Igor Todorovic <igor455@home.com>
To: OLDS LIST <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 3:35 AM
Subject: Delta 88 Vs. Camaro


> Like I said yesterday my friend got his '88 Camaro IROC-Z recently with a
> 305, TH700, 2.73s, TBI, etc.  The 305 has very low milage on a rebuild and
> runs great.  I raced him with my '81 Delta (with a 455) today.  After
> absolutely disapearing I did not belive that he was even trying so I made
> him drive my car and I drove the Camaro.  It was at night, in the country
at
> a trafic light and NO ONE around so it was perfect.  The speed limit was
55
> MPH and we raced to 75 MPH (no point any more).  When I drive, I manually
> shift at 4500 RPM but when the car is left in D then it shifts at about
3800
> RPM (WOT) and if you so much as spin the tires a bit (1/4 throtle) and
then
> ease off it shifts into second gear and goes from there.  He left it in D
> and exactly that happend.  Literarly 5 feet in first and then shift into
> second with very lousy traction.  STILL, my Delta pulled away in second
gear
> like an aircraft of a catapult.  It literarly got more then 1/8 mile
> distance in a flash.  Just gone, and I was really getting onto the Camaro
> but nothing.  I can't belive that a almost stock 455 in a about 800 pound
> heavier car with worst geering can woop a Camaro like that.  IT IS A
CAMARO.
> I can't see how even a 350 can help much.  I think he needs a 350 with
> 4.10s, the 700 trans and headers in order to beat me (none of which I
have).
> My other friend has a '86 Cutlass with a 305, 200-4R and 2.73s and the
> Camaro can beat him no problem.  So, I KNOW IT IS A CHEVY SO NO discusion
> about that PLEASE, but what the hell could he do to keep up with me and
> still run the stock 305.  I am asking because I would like to get a
> Camaro/Trans Am of that vintage but really hate the power.  Thanks.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 08:24:02 -0500
From: Wyatt <Wyatt@jobax.net>
Subject: Re: Reverb

I have heard reverb and it does wonders for AM radio.  It will also make
strange noises when left on with the radio off as it picks up road
vibrations.
Most units, if not all, have a spring inside that has something to do
with the reverberation process.  To be fair, my first 8 track stereo had
better sound, but reverb was a neat effect for it's time.

Dave Wyatt
70   4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 06:46:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: jalkara <jalkara@whidbey.net>
Subject: motor mounts, 47

i seem to have misplaced an address for some one that was talking about
motor mount problems under torque, in their 47 olds.
please email me direct
47rocket98

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:56:52 -0400
From: RICHARD BOYLE <Rboyle@HOME.COM>
Subject: PRINTED CIRCUIT

NEED TO REPAIR A DASHBOARD RALLYE PACK CIRCUIT BOARD,WHICH IS TORN IN
TWO PLACES.
ALSO SEND LIST OF VENDORS WHO REMANUFACTURE OLDS PRODUCTS.
THANK YOU,
RBOYLE

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:27:12 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: PRINTED CIRCUIT

Richard, 

I don't know which cirquit board you are talking about, how it looks 
like and how it is torn apart. If you are not into electronics you should 
keep your hands off boards though otherwise you will risk to make things 
worse. I imagine that every reputable electronics repair shop can help 
you and repair it if it *is* repairable. Otherwise get a new one, rallye 
packs are pretty cheap... (just kidding!!!)

I will send you a vendor list privately. Good Luck.

Regards, George
- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
- --------------------------------------------------------------

On Tue, 11 May 1999, RICHARD BOYLE wrote:

> NEED TO REPAIR A DASHBOARD RALLYE PACK CIRCUIT BOARD,WHICH IS TORN IN
> TWO PLACES.
> ALSO SEND LIST OF VENDORS WHO REMANUFACTURE OLDS PRODUCTS.
> THANK YOU,
> RBOYLE
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 11:47:53 EDT
From: Tbone6944@aol.com
Subject: Re: fuel gauge problem, need help

You may have plugged your harness in upside down in your trunk. I done the 
same thing a month ago. Good Luck. Tom 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:53:00 -0500
From: "Hitson, Roger" <HITSOR@mail.dmh.state.mo.us>
Subject: helloooo & ramblings

Like the prodigal,  I have come back. Long trip, lotsa drivin'.

I think synthetic oil does suffer some from thermal viscosity breakdown. My
oil press (Mobil 1, 15W-50) clearly varied inversely with engine temp over
hours & hours of 70+ mph driving. Oil press varied +/- 10 psi while engine
temp varied 25-30 deg. If that's not viscosity breakdown, what is it?

Why do so many idiots drive Lincolns & Cadillacs, & how come so many of 'em
get to use handicapped parking? (Is the handicap "obese & stupid"?)

Driving in the South is a trip. Everyone drives as fast as he wants in
whatever lane he wants, & pulls onto the road in front of you whenever he
wants. Yield is a concept not yet mastered. When your life isn't being
threatened, though, kinda fun to be able to let the horses run.

BTW, how can I make a 307 put out 400 hp?  Can I use a supercharger on my BB
403? It has solid main webs!   ;-)

Whad I miss?

roger

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 12:05:05 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Top Ten

This is from last night's David Letterman Show

Top Ten Things Dumb Guys Look For In A Car

10. Dashboard Slurpee machine.
 9. Car horn that plays theme from "The Rockford Files."
 8. Warning on cigarette lighter which reads: "Do not place on tongue."
 7. Anti-lock locks.
 6. Side view mirror with reminder: "Objects in mirror are reflections of 
actual real-life objects, genius."
 5. Aero to 5.8 in 60 seconds.
 4. Enough trunk space to hold hundreds upon hundreds of wrestling magazines.
 3. Secret compartment in center of steering wheel for storing Camels.
 2. I don't know what the hell rack and pinion is, but give me all that you 
got.
 1. A glove compartment that don't take a genius to 
open.			

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 09:08:00 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: Reverbs

How you hook it up depends on what car you've got, what model reverb etc.
It's basically an echo effect to give some sense of separation between the
front & rear speakers. Neat effect, but way outdated by stereo which started
in abou 66 @GM.

In my 66 big olds's there is a dash switch which allows you to turn it on
and off. This switch when on sends power and the audio signal to the
reverb/amp. I think the reverb/amp delays both front & rear, but it may be
just the rear audio signal to give the desired echo effect. The factory
units were made by Delco (no surprise). With you Motorola unit, I'd guess
there are similar audio/power interfaces, you'll just need to test 'em. If
there's a red wire/black wire, those are good guesses for power/ground.
Other colors should be audio signal, but I have nothing at all to confirm
this. 

I've just been digging into this since my unit doesn't work quite right and
I happened across a radio schematic book from GM for 1966. Just the perfect
thing for making these old devices work again. A great kitchen table some
night free project...

Hope this helps.

- -----Original Message-----
From: DROLDS350@aol.com [mailto:DROLDS350@aol.com]
Sent: Monday, May 10, 1999 5:38 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Cc: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: (no subject)


At a local swap meet I was able to pick up a Motorola Reverb Unit. I
remember 
having one of these years ago, but don't remember how it hooks up. Would 
anyone on the list know how this hooks up? Do they even make these any more?
Thanks,
Jim McKeague
1970 Rallye 350
1970 Cutlass S W-31

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 12:31:42 EDT
From: Biscayne2d@aol.com
Subject: Re: Delta 88 Vs. Camaro

Wouldnt he be able to run gears like a 3;73 and still keep decent gas milage 
with the overdrive tranny???

Paul in WI
79

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 11:31:49 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: 1970 H/O was Re: '66 442 Convert for $1500 obo!

OK, I called (since I'm in Austin)...this car is NOT a 1966 anything.  I
called late, so I left a message, but the guy's return phone call said that
the picture was in fact of a car that was on their lot at one point but
that they didn't own, and that the car AS DESCRIBED (but not as pictured)
is still available.

Now, I'm not an expert (or even really, really interested) in H/Os, mostly
because I always assumed that they would be out of my (alleged) price
range, but THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A 1970 H/O, IS THERE?

The prototype FAQ v5.0 lists the 1970 Rallye 350 as the closest thing to a
1970 H/O, is this correct?  This car would have to be yellow, with either
chrome or body colored bumpers?

I'm probably going to go by the place today and find out what the story is.
 They obviously don't know WHAT they have, maybe I'm going to get away with
highway robbery...

At 05:57 PM 5/10/99 -0600, you wrote:
>Had to pass this along, cuz it looks like a great deal... sorry if this
>offends anyone.
>
>http://www.traderonline.com/cgi-bin/coll/apps/search/photdisp.html?photo=000
>16098509&phoneId=5124419717&ad=62216331&status=no&imgsite=&page=search&pstat
>=P
>
>The ad says it's a '70 Hurst, but it's actually a '66 442 Convertible, and
>it looks really straight.  So if anyone is looking for a cheap '66 442
>convert to restore in the Austin, Texas area, check it out.
> 
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88  RB                   (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 09:50:19 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: helloooo & ramblings

>Why do so many idiots drive Lincolns & Cadillacs, & how come
>so many of 'em get to use handicapped parking? (Is the handicap
>"obese & stupid"?)

At the risk of oversimplifying, I think a lot of them get to park luxury 
cars in handicapped spaces due to handsome court settlements following 
whatever their original injury was.  :-}

>Driving in the South is a trip. Everyone drives as fast as he
>wants in whatever lane he wants, & pulls onto the road in front
>of you whenever he wants. Yield is a concept not yet mastered.
>When your life isn't being threatened, though, kinda fun to be
>able to let the horses run.

When I drove from Chicago to Mount Rushmore in South Dakota and back again 
in 1997, I was surprised to find that there _is_ a speed at which 99% of the 
drivers will use if given half a chance: 75 mph. Beyond that I think a lot 
of cars start to feel a little loosey-goosey.

In any event, in Illinois and Wisconsin the speed limit was 55 or 65, 
depending on area, and everyone did 75. In Minnesota (I think) and South 
Dakota the speed limit was 75, and everyone did... 75.

- -- Andy


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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1951
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