Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.Ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.Ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1961


oldsmobile-digest        Monday, May 17 1999        Volume 01 : Number 1961



Re: X-man Bolt Snapped! :(
Re: Hood Alignment Tips
olds subsribe
Re: X-man Bolt Snapped! :(
Re: What went wrong?
Re: X-man Bolt Snapped! :(
Re: X-man Bolt Snapped! :(
UNBOUNCE: Re: 65-70 Big Car Wheel Offset
UNBOUNCE: Wanted: Olds W/ Stick Shift
Welcome Back CBW!!!
Re: What went wrong?
FS:  '57-'67 Olds Parts
FS: 68-75+ Olds Parts
High RPM stall question
Fw: Head bolts for 455
Re: High RPM stall question
Re: High RPM stall question
Taillight problem
OCC National
early Q-jet choke assy
70 88/98 FENDERS
Re: What went wrong?
Re: early Q-jet choke assy
Re: car names..
Re: X-man Bolt Snapped! :(
minor carb problems
Fwd: For The Olds List Members
Re: Taillight problem
Re: car names./ Cinderella is dead!
new to oldsmobile
Re: Taillight problem
Re: new to oldsmobile
Q-jet experience/H*lp? LONG

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 15:38:04 -0700
From: "Peter Berusch" <berusch@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: X-man Bolt Snapped! :(

  I can't see it, but if you have (I'm so smug) a right angle drill and a
real sharp bit and a steady hand, you can center punch it and center drill
it.  You can use ever increasing in size drill bits until you turn the bolt
into a shell of its' former self.  Or, drill it just enough to get in a
reasonable easy out.  I don't have a lot of confidence in the latter,
though.  If you turned the head of the bolt with enough torque to break it,
I'm gonna go ahead and guess the bolt is feeling mighty comfy where it is
and is reluctant to come out and play.  You're prolly gonna have to drill
it.  Heck fire.  If I can do it, anyone can.  Like you, I don't have a sense
of thread lube having been used in the assembly process.  Peter.











>Subject line says it all... trying to replace the leaky x-man gasket on
>the Delta today. Passenger side, center bolt was not moving. Doused it
>with penetrant, waited an hour, then snapped the !@#$%^%#@! thing,
>probably flush with the head from the look of it. This despite being a new
>bolt 7-8 months ago when the thing was replaced and my explicit
>instructions to the mechanics to use anti-seize ("Oh yeah, we always do
>that!"). No evidence of same.
>
>How badly screwed am I? Is it possible to get one of these out with the
>head still on the motor in the car? Can't see how you'd get a drill in
>there for an easy-out. I feel absolutely cursed with this thing!
>Grumble...
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
>             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 14:58:11 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Hood Alignment Tips

> I have the hood on the car now, and need to get it aligned. Could
>someone out there please provide me with some tips on how to align it?
>Thanks,
>Jim McKeague


It's easiest with 3 people.  One on either hinge and another to hold the
front.  Front-rear and side to side (basically anything in the horizontal
plane) is done where the hinge meets the hood.  Vertical adjustment is done
with either shims or where the hinge bolts on to the fender.  A lot of hoods
came stock with a shim on the rear bolts of the hood hinge where it bolts
to the hood.  Keep in mind that you'll probably have to re-adjust your
fenders
after the hood tightened down.  The way I do it is get all the bolts almost
snug
except for one bolt per side which gets snugged down.  Makes it easier to
slide it on the hinges until you get in the ball park.  In the end, it's
just a matter
of playing with it.  Take heart, your almost at the end!

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 16:14:09 -0400
From: "John Healey" <kevinhealey@mediaone.net>
Subject: olds subsribe

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BE9FB7.20F96780
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I just saw your page and I was hoping to get some info on exaust for my =
83 cutlass calais v8 307 4bbl.  I just put straight pipes on it and I =
need to get performance cat converters to pass inspection.  I am hoping =
they are available. =20

- ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BE9FB7.20F96780
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

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<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2614.3401" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#f0e8d8>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I just saw your page and I was hoping to get some =
info on=20
exaust for my 83 cutlass calais v8 307 4bbl.&nbsp; I just put straight =
pipes on=20
it and I need to get performance cat converters to pass =
inspection.&nbsp; I am=20
hoping they are available.&nbsp; =
</FONT></DIV></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0005_01BE9FB7.20F96780--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 16:36:27 -0400
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: X-man Bolt Snapped! :(

You may be able to get at it without a right angle drill through the wheel
well. If you can, it's a better option. Also, forget Liquid Wrench, WD-40
and the like. Go find a can of PB Blaster. You'll recognize it by the
writing and testimonials and junk written all over the can. There's nothing
that looks like it and NOTHING works better. I've used them all. I believe
it's the same company that makes JB Weld. The can looks the similar to the
old JB Weld packages.

Soak it for 24 hours with Blaster before you try drilling it or anything.
Take a torch (carefully) and heat the SURROUNDING cast iron slowly.Then take
a small chisel (working through the wheel well if possible) and tap a notch
in the bolt and then try to tap it around. Use patience, this will usually
work.

If the bolt is NOT flush use the same technique but try gripping it with an
approprate size vise grip. Don't be tempted to bypass the soaking and
heating or you'll just keep making the exposed bolt smaller and smaller as
the vise grips keep slipping off.

If all of this fails . . . drill and retap, helicoil if necessary.

Mine did the same thing on BOTH sides when I installed the headers. Easy
Outs and the like are a waste of time at best, a nightmare at worst. I once
broke one off in a head. Try drilling HARDENED tool steel.
Ed

- -----Original Message-----

>
>  I can't see it, but if you have (I'm so smug) a right angle drill and a
>real sharp bit and a steady hand, you can center punch it and center drill
>it.  You can use ever increasing in size drill bits until you turn the bolt
>into a shell of its' former self.  Or, drill it just enough to get in a
>reasonable easy out.  I don't have a lot of confidence in the latter,
>though.  If you turned the head of the bolt with enough torque to break it,
>I'm gonna go ahead and guess the bolt is feeling mighty comfy where it is
>and is reluctant to come out and play.  You're prolly gonna have to drill
>it.  Heck fire.  If I can do it, anyone can.  Like you, I don't have a
sense
>of thread lube having been used in the assembly process.  Peter.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>>Subject line says it all... trying to replace the leaky x-man gasket on
>>the Delta today. Passenger side, center bolt was not moving. Doused it
>>with penetrant, waited an hour, then snapped the !@#$%^%#@! thing,
>>probably flush with the head from the look of it. This despite being a new
>>bolt 7-8 months ago when the thing was replaced and my explicit
>>instructions to the mechanics to use anti-seize ("Oh yeah, we always do
>>that!"). No evidence of same.
>>
>>How badly screwed am I? Is it possible to get one of these out with the
>>head still on the motor in the car? Can't see how you'd get a drill in
>>there for an easy-out. I feel absolutely cursed with this thing!
>>Grumble...
>>
>>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>>   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
>>             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm
>>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 16:41:48 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: What went wrong?

Dave Cullen wrote:
> 
> Hot plugs could give you ping, but more likely it's timing. Setting points
> gap changed your timing, you gotta go back and check it.

I replaced the old plugs today.  That didn't do anything (didn't expect
it to).  So then I replaced the old points.  Runs like a Rocket now, no
pinging/knocking at all, even under full throttle.  I've decided to let
things go the way they are and carry new parts as spares.  Then, when it
doesn't run any more, I'll repair something.

I can't believe how severe the change was with the new points.  I'm
talking pinging under even the lightest load and
knocking-like-the-motor's-coming-apart under moderate load.  I was
afraid to see what full throttle was like.  I'm afraid that to retard
the timing enough to eliminate the knock would have also eliminate quite
a bit of power.

I'm quite pleased with how the car is running now, so this is how it's
going to stay.

Thanks everyone,

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 17:13:14 -0400
From: Crotts Family <krotz@roanoke.infi.net>
Subject: Re: X-man Bolt Snapped! :(

I had the same thing happen a few weeks ago, if there is a small portion of the
bolt sticking out do what I did. We welded a nut to the broken bolt sticking
out, hence then we could remove it :~). Andy
You also may want to install stainless studs with nuts on you reassembly.


> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>Subject line says it all... trying to replace the leaky x-man gasket on
> >>the Delta today. Passenger side, center bolt was not moving. Doused it
> >>with penetrant, waited an hour, then snapped the !@#$%^%#@! thing,
> >>probably flush with the head from the look of it. This despite being a new
> >>bolt 7-8 months ago when the thing was replaced and my explicit
> >>instructions to the mechanics to use anti-seize ("Oh yeah, we always do
> >>that!"). No evidence of same.
> >>
> >>How badly screwed am I? Is it possible to get one of these out with the
> >>head still on the motor in the car? Can't see how you'd get a drill in
> >>there for an easy-out. I feel absolutely cursed with this thing!
> >>Grumble...
> >>
> >>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
> >>   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
> >>             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm
> >>
> >
> >

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 17:20:32 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: X-man Bolt Snapped! :(

>I had the same thing happen a few weeks ago, if there is a small portion of
the
>bolt sticking out do what I did. We welded a nut to the broken bolt
sticking
>out, hence then we could remove it :~). Andy
>You also may want to install stainless studs with nuts on you reassembly.


Good suggestion, but on the studs there is usually not enough room to be
able to slide the manifold over them.  When using nuts on exhausts, use
brass ones, as they don't seize on like steel ones.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 20:25:46 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Re: 65-70 Big Car Wheel Offset

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	"Robin Pajak" <robinp@us.hsanet.net>
Subject: Re: 65-70 Big Car Wheel Offset

Chris Fair wrote:
<SNIP>I'm teetering on the edge of just going to 15 X 7 or 15 X 8 wheels
just so I
can swap over to disk brakes down the line, but really like the 14" rim
hubcaps from 66 (the deluxe vaned ones-cool).

Thoughts?


**********
I'm wrestling with the same choices on my 65 Delta 88.
1) You can't get a tall enough 14" radial to match the stock size 8.00 or
8.50-14 bias-ply tire
2) OK, so switch to 15" wheels.
3) Now, how do I use my 14" 2 bar spinner wire wheel hubcaps????

I've asked before but I'll ask again:

Has anyone seen "hubcap adapters" in the "use-14"-hubcaps-on-15"-wheels
configuration? Versions DO exist for using 15" hubcaps on 16" wheels.......I
know 'cause I own a set. They snap onto the wheel and the cap snaps into
them.

John Pajak
65 Delta 88 (with 14" wheels!)
+ a whole lot more
http://members.tripod.com/~JSPajak
or
http://drive.to/pajak

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 20:27:51 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Wanted: Olds W/ Stick Shift

Not on the list; respond to qcquad@cuny.campuscwix.net

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Howie <qcquad@cuny.campuscwix.net>
Subject: Wanted: Olds W/ Stick Shift

If anyone knows of a 65 to 73 Cutlass with a stick for sale please
reply. Condition is not a factor, actually the worse the better (I've
been known to save many a car from the crusher).
Howie.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 17:34:51 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Welcome Back CBW!!!

> I suppose I qualify as a new subscriber, having been off for 2-3 years now.

Well, OK, then, welcome aboard, then.  Here on this list you'll find all kinds
of useful information............   ;)

> Some may remember me

And some will never forget.  It's good to see ya back again.  (You ~are~ back 
to
stay for a while, right??? :)

> I am cynical and will not hesitate to call on the carpet anyone who claims
> their 307 makes 478 HP [it HAS happened here...].

Yes, of course, we all know it's the 260 that had those ratings! :)  FWIW, I
also remember when ~that~ claim was posted...  Who could forget...

> I live in Lansing, MI, work for a company that builds seat motors and ABS
> motors.  

BTW, does your '68 have power seats and anti-lock brakes?  Just wonderring ;)

> And, I have about 50 parts cars.

Oh crap, he passed me ~again~! $@^$%@  Guess I'll have to go buy some more
cars!  ;)

> I would like to submit a list of these items and see if y'all need

Cool, I'd also like to see it :)  

> Consequently, you readers may take 50% off the prices I have put forth

Cooler!  ;)

> Still MIA: the famous, but verified to exist, forged
> 455 crank, and the infamous never-verified-to-exist.... SOLID MAIN WEB 403!
> Yep, my $50 reward STILL stands for PROOF that these SMW 403's exist. Not
> rumor, not stories, not "for sure, but I don't have it apart right now...".

Someone on the G-body list recently claimed to have seen one.  We all told him
to get verifiable proof, 'cuz we all wanted to see it too...  But none of us 
was
willing (able?) to put up $50 for it, but...  :)
 
> So, if no objections, I will fwd to the list the items,

All in favor (whoopeeeeeeee) 

All opposed?  Hit the delete key!  :)
- -- 
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://drive.to/Oldsmagnet    See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 19:42:27 -0400
From: Gene Gatti <jerseydevil@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: What went wrong?

Hi Guys,
   Speaking of problems with breaker points, today my father tuned up his
lawnmower with new points etc. After he was finished the mower would not
start. Now mind you he knows what he's doing for the most part but he's
quite busy lately. Anyway I helped him with it this afternoon and it turns
out he gapped the points to the proper .019" or whatever but they were not
on the high point of the cam. So the points would never close and the danged
thing wouldn't start. It just goes to show that anything can happen. TTYL,
Gene

At 04:41 PM 5/16/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Dave Cullen wrote:
>> 
>> Hot plugs could give you ping, but more likely it's timing. Setting points
>> gap changed your timing, you gotta go back and check it.
>
>I replaced the old plugs today.  That didn't do anything (didn't expect
>it to).  So then I replaced the old points.  Runs like a Rocket now, no
>pinging/knocking at all, even under full throttle.  I've decided to let
>things go the way they are and carry new parts as spares.  Then, when it
>doesn't run any more, I'll repair something.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 20:50:58 -0400
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: FS:  '57-'67 Olds Parts

                                  C&M Classic Parts
                      1132 Chatmoss Drive, Virginia Beach, VA 23464
                            (757)474-0869, FAX (757)474-0694
                                <chermac@exis.net>
                                        OCA# 24275

        Hours:  Mon.-Fri.  4:00 PM - 10:00 PM,  Sat. 9:00 AM - 3:00 PM,  
        CLOSED Sunday
        *We accept all major Credit Cards: VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and 
        Discover.*

                             OLDSMOBILE Restoration Parts

New arrival "Parts"
64 (NOS) 442 Single groove Waterpump Pulley $55.00
64 442/Cutlass Tail Light Assm (very nice, complete pair) $100.00 pr
64-69 (NOS) Antenna Mast (oval) $55.00
66-67 (NOS) Cutlass/442 A/C comp. switch $32.00
64-67 Tan Seat Belts (nice set) $100.00
57-58 371 J-2 Intake (looks NOS)  $125.00
64-66 Floor Shift Column (black, mint) $150.00
64-66 F-85 Steering Wheel (Gold, very nice)  $75.00
64-69 Vacuum Gauge (console mount, mint)  $75.00
64-66 Console Tach (nice)  $55.00
66-67 Cutlass/F-85 4 door Sedan Front Doors (mint)  $50.00 pr
66-67 Cowl Panels (mint)  $35.00 ea
64-72 Boxed Lower Control Arms (originals)  $100.00 pr
     
New Repro Parts:
57 (Repro) 88/98 Taillight Lens (2)  $20.00 pr
66 442 L-69 Tri-Carb Air Cleaners (Small ones, repro, w/filters)  $119.00 set
64-67 Battery Tray (Repro)  $30.00
66 442 Tri-Carb Linkage Kit (complete, correct) $80.00
66 Tri-Carb carb tags (3, correct repros) $25.00 set
66-67 Radio Delete Plates (perfect repro)  $40.00
66-67 Heater Delete Plates  (perfect repro)  $40.00  ($78.00 set)
66-67 442 W-30 Ram Air Hoses (perfect repro) $80.00 pr
67 442 Grille Bar (repro)  $92.00
66-67 442/Cutlass Drip Rail Moldings (NEW, repro) $65.00 set
67-70 Turn Signal Levers (repro)  $27.00 ea
67-70 Tilt Levers (repro)  $27.00 ea 
SSI Center Rocket Emblems $5.00 ea

New Old Stock (NOS) Parts 1964-1972 Olds/Cutlass/442
53 (NOS) 88/98 Hood Emblem (in box)  $100.00
53 (NOS Take off) Tail Light Assm.  $30.00 
57 (NOS) 88/98 Taillight Lens (1 only)  $20.00
58 (NOS) Dog Dish Hubcaps  (5)  $250.00 set
59-62 (NOS) Temp Sending Unit  $18.00
60 (NOS) RH Tail Light Assm (complete)  $85.00
65-70 (NOS) 88/98 Idler Arm $35.00
64-72 (NOS) Clutch Inspection covers $22.00 ea
65 (NOS) F-85 Deluxe Dash Emblem  $38.00
65 (NOS) LH Front Turn Signal Assm $65.00
65 (NOS) 442/Cutlass LH Fender, & very nice RH Fender $650.00 pr
66 (NOS) LH/RH Cutlass Tail Light Lens  $45.00 ea, $90.00 pr
67 (NOS) LH/RH Delmont/Delta 88 Tail Light Lens  $45.00 ea, $90.00 pr 
67 (NOS) RH Delta 88 Upper Tail Light Lens  $55.00 ea
67-70 (NOS) Master Cylinder cover $18.00
67-75 (NOS) TH400 Shifter Cable Bracket  $24.00
68-75+ (NOS) TH350 Shifter Cable Bracket  $24.00
68-72+ (NOS) TH Torque Converter Cover (Plastic)  $36.00 ea
66-72 (NOS) SSI Center Caps $36.50 ea

Used Parts:
64 Cutlass/442                       
64-65 Radiator Top Plate  $35.00
64 F-85/Cutlass Grille (good cond) $45.00
64-65 330/400 Valve Covers (nice)  $25.00 pr
64-65 Cutlass/442 Conv Rear Side Glass (mint)  $80.00 pr
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  $50.00
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
64 Front Bumper Core  $50.00                                                   
64 F-85 Fender Emblem (nice)  $5.00 

65 Cutlass/442
64-65 Radiator Top Plate  $35.00
65 442/Cutlass Front Hood Molding (very nice) $100.00
65 442/Cutlass Front Hood Molding (good, chrome slightly weak) $35.00
65 Full Size Air Cleaner Top (Super Rocket)  $30.00
65 400 442 4-Jet Carb (rebuilt)  $100.00
65 442 Grille (nice used)  $100.00
65 Cutlass Grille (good used)  $55.00
64-65 330/400 Valve Covers (nice)  $35.00 pr
64-65 Cutlass/442 Conv Rear Side Glass (mint)  $80.00 pr
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  $50.00
65 Cutlass 4 Door Rear Wheelwell Die cast pieces (front)  $20.00 pr
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
65 Cutlass/442 Wheelwell Moldings  LH/RH rear $15.00 ea

66 Cutlass/442
66 442 RH Tail Light Bezel (nice, used)  $100.00
64-66 Inside Rearview Mirror (Mint)  $35.00
66 F-85 Post Coupe Door Panels & Seats (good, tannish gold)  Inquire
64-66 Auto Console (black, w/wiring, nice)  $125.00
66 442 4 spd Chassis (very good cond)  $250.00
66 Rear Bumper Core  $55.00
66 442 W-30 Inner/Outer Bumper Ducts (new doesn't include hoses)  $550.00 set
66 442 W-30 Inner Ducts  $375.00 pr  
66 442 LH Tail Light assm (fair to good) $100.00 
66 442 RH Tail Light Assm (fair to good) $100.00
66 LH Inner Fenderwell (nice) $65.00
66-67 RH Inner Fenderwell (very nice) $75.00
66-67 442 Trunk Lid (mint, w/pwr trunk) $135.00
66-67 Post Coupe Doors (mint)  $140.00 pr, $75.00 ea
66 442/Cutlass Radiator Support (nice, blasted no rust)  $125.00
66-67 SSI Wheels (good not perfect, 5)  $125.00 set
66-67 442 Air Cleaner (2)  $85.00 ea
64-66 Auto Floor Console (Red, missing front trim, nice top plate)  $50.00
66 F-85 Trunk Lid Emblem $10.00
66 F-85 Trunk Lid Molding  $20.00
64-66 Auto Floor Shifter (T handle type, complete minus T )  $30.00
66 Cutlass Trunk Molding (very good)  $45.00
66 Cutlass Tail Light Bezels (decent)  $45.00 pr
66 F-85/Cutlass grille (nice)   $55.00
66 F-85/Cutlass grille (good)  $35.00 
66 Cutlass/442 Headlight Bezels  $50.00 pr
66-67Post Coupe Exterior A-Pillar Chrome Moldings  $15.00
pr                                  

67 Cutlass/442
67 442 Dash Emblem (mint)  $55.00
67 442/Cutlass Front license plate bracket (mint) $35.00
67 Steering Column (column shift, blue, mint) $65.00
67 C/S Hardtop door panels $50.00 pr
66-67 442 Trunk Lid (mint, w/pwr trunk) $135.00
67 Front Bumper Filler Panel (mint)  $40.00
67 Cutlass Hood (nice)  $65.00
67 442/Cutlass Supreme Rear Qtr Moldings (no pits, decent chrome) $90.00 pr
67 442/Cutlass Supreme Rear Bumper (nice)  $115.00
67 442/Cutlass Radiator Support (nice)  $130.00
66-67 442 Air Cleaner (2)  $85.00 ea
67 Deluxe Full Wheel Covers $35.00 set
67 Cutlass Dash Emblem (good)  $10.00
67 Cutlass Supreme Dash Emblems (2 very nice)  $20.00 ea
67 Cutlass 4 door, Door Panels (blue, mint)  $65.00 for all 4
67 442/Cutlass Trunk Panel (good chrome, NO pits)  $65.00
67 F-85 Steering Wheel Center (good chrome) $15.00
67 Cutlass Supreme/442 Steering Wheel Centers (mint)  $35.00 
67 Fender End Caps  $30.00 pr
67 Cutlass Fender Emblems (nice)  $10.00 ea
67 Plain Cutlass Fender Rockets (nice)  $5.50 ea
67 Cutlass Headlight Bezels (nice)  $50.00 pr
67 442 Trunk Lids (clean)  $90.00 ea
67 RH Fender (small metal patch panel, straight)  $100.00

Big Car Parts:
66 88/98 Front Fenders (very nice)  $175.00 pr
66 98 Grille (nice) $50.00
66 98 Tail Light Assm. (nice)  $50.00 pr
66 Turbine Hubcaps $40.00 set
66 88/98 Front Bumper (3 pieces, RH good, rest is nice) $100.00

New reproduction parts:
Correct Gas Tanks 64-72 20 gallon with filler neck and lock ring/gasket  *Reg.
Price $199.00 (* Price until 1 June $189.00)

Convertible Top Boots (Correct Grains for each different year)  $104.00 ea
64  Black, Red, Lt. Blue, Fawn, Saddle, Turquoise, White
65  Same as 64  
66-67 Black, Red, Light Blue, Med. Blue, Bronze, Turquoise, White, Gold
68-72 Black, Red, Parchment, Lt. Blue, Teal Blue, Green Gold, Gold, Pearl,
Dk Blue, Dk. Green, Lt. Green, Lt. Saddle, Dk Saddle, Olive Green, Royal
Blue, White, Sandalwood, 

Molded Carpet Sets  $109.00 ea
64-67 - (Black, Red, Med. Blue, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Maroon)
68-72 - (Black, Red, Maroon, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Med. Blue, Dk. Green,
Green Gold, Lt. Green, Teal Blue, Saddle, Sandalwood)
73-77 - (Same as 68-72 except Green Gold)

Door Panels  64-72  $275.00 for a set of all 4

Seat Covers  64-72  $355.00 front and rear sets any year or color.

Lifetime Guarantee on all correct bead window felts  $92.00 set (inner & outer)
66-67 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (correct bead type) 
68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (not Supreme Coupes, correct bead) 
68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv (Outers only, correct bead)  $50.00

Glove Box Liners
64-67 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $18.99
68-69 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $18.99
70-72 Glovebox Liner w/clips  $18.99

Qrt Seals
70-72 Cutlass Supreme & Conv Qtr End seals  $13.00 pr

Hood Insulation
64-65 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $24.00
66 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $24.00
67 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner  (w/clips)  $24.00
68-70 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner (w/clips)  $24.00
70-72 Cutlass Supreme Hood Liner (w/clips)  $24.00
73-77 Cutlass $30.00

Liner Clips
Round Clips  $.75 ea
Square Clips  $.75 ea

A-Arm Shields
64-72 Upper A-Arm dust shields (w/o clips) $18.99 pr

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 20:52:21 -0400
From: J Chermack/C&M Classic Parts <chermac@exis.net>
Subject: FS: 68-75+ Olds Parts

                                                      C&M Classic Parts
                                1132 Chatmoss Drive, Virginia Beach, VA 23464
                                          (757)474-0869, FAX (757)474-0694
                                         
                                              <mailto:chermac@exis.net>
                                                          OCA# 24275

             Hours:  Mon-Fri  6:00 PM - 10:00 PM,  Sat 9:00 AM - 3:00 PM,
Sunday
                          Closed
            *We accept all major Credit Cards. VISA, M/C, Amer. Express, and
              Discover.*

New arrival "Parts"
NOS G-70-14 Goodyear Polyglass (Blackwall) are not being reproduced  $100.00
455 Block std bore $100.00
69 Cutlass/442 Front Bumper (nice drive chrome, has Olds frown) $90.00
NOS 64-69 A-body Antenna Mast (oval) $55.00
73 Hurst/Olds Console Emblem (nice) $40.00
Small Block Olds Edelbrock Intake Manifold (Old square bore OL4B, nice) $150.00
S/B Edelbrock 3711 Performer Intakes (nice) $100.00 ea
68-72 400/455 Notched Valve Covers (very nice)  $100.00 pr
70-74 SSII/III Wheels 14x7 (5 w/trim rings and NOS caps, very nice) $340.00 set
68-72 Conv Top Mechanism (nice used) $200.00
68-72 Front Windshield Molding (set, mint) $45.00
68-72 Conv. Windshield Chrome Molding Set (mint) $120.00
68-72 "S" Hardtop Rear Window Molding (set, mint)  $45.00
68-75+ Auto Trans Flex Plates  $35.00 ea
  
New Repro Parts:
Metro Moulded Door Seals $60.00 pr
Metro Moulded Roof Rail Seals $60.00 pr
Metro Moulded Trunk Seal $16.00 ea
68-72 Washer Bottles (black or white, w/cap) $26.00 ea
W-27 Rear Axle Covers (12 & 10 bolt, new w/gasket & bolts) $85.00
68-72 Gas Tanks (Nice Repro)  $199.00
67-70 Turn Signal Levers (repro)  $27.00 ea
67-70 Tilt Levers (repro)  $27.00 ea 
68-69 Ram Air Hoses (perfect repro) $80.00 pr
68-72 License Plate Bracket (Repro)  $26.50
68-72 1/4 Glass Chrome Moldings (Repro)  $92.00 pr
69-72 Rear Spoiler (3 piece repro)  $255.00
70-72 Dash Chrome Bead (new)  $54.00 ea
70-72 Hood Pin Kits (NEW, original supplier, complete setup) $115.00
70 Rallye 350 Stripe Kits (made from a NOS set, perfect, complete) $400.00 set
71 or 72 442 Grille Numeral Sets (repro, either year)  $34.00 set
71-72 442 Hood Emblem (repro, Non OAI) $20.00
SSI and SSII/III Center Rocket Stickers (correct raised repro) $5.00 ea
  
New Old Stock (NOS) Parts 1964-1972 Olds/Cutlass/442
68 (NOS) Cutlass/442 Turn Signal Lens (front, 2 prs)  $25.00 pr
68-72+ (NOS) TH Torque Converter Cover (Plastic)  $36.00 ea
66-72 (NOS) SSI Center Caps $36.50 ea
68-70 (NOS).475 lift 328 duration cam $150.00
68-75 (NOS) SSII/III Center Caps $36.50 ea
69 (NOS) Wiper Switches $60.00 ea
69-72 (NOS) 442 Trunk Numeral Sets $60.00 set
69-70 (NOS) 442 Hood Numeral Sets  $60.00 set
69-72 (NOS) 442 Fender Numeral Sets $45.00 set
70 (NOS) RH Eyebrow Moldings $50.00 ea
70 (NOS) LH Hood Molding $85.00
70-72 (NOS) Hurst Dual Gate Shifter Cable $55.00
70-72 (NOS) OAI Air Cleaner Springs $5.00 ea
70-72 (NOS) W-30 Emblems $75.00 pr
70-72 (NOS) Choke Heat Tubes $11.00 ea
70-72 (NOS) Intake Choke Tube (455/350) $32.00
70-72 (NOS) Hardtop Trunk Lid $650.00
70-72 (NOS) Backup Lens $18.00 ea
70-72 (NOS) Fenders LH/RH $1300.00 pr
70-72 (NOS) 442/Cutlass "S" Trunk Lid $650.00
71-72 (NOS) Sport Mirror Brackets $15.00 pr
71-72 (NOS) RH Turn Lens $45.00
71-72 (NOS) RH Sport Mirror $75.00
71-72 (NOS) Front Stone Shield Plastics $35.00 ea                        
73 (NOS) H/O and 74-75 Cutlass Front Rocket w/ red insert $40.00
73 (NOS) Vista Cruiser Tail Light Lens (inner pair)  $25.00 pr
74 (NOS) Delta 88 & Royale Gas Filler Lid Molding  $45.00
 
USED PARTS:
68 Cutlass/442
68 Hood Hinges  $60.00 pr
68 442 Air Cleaner Assm  $150.00
68-69 Rallye Pac (Very nice)  $425.00 
68 Hood Hinges (nice) $60.00 pr
68 OAI Dual Snorkel Breather Assm (nice orig) $550.00
68-69 Hurst Olds Dual Bail Master Cylinders $38.00 (+$18.00 core) 
68-69 LH Post Coupe Door (very nice)  $75.00
68 Trunk Vinyl Top Molding & Plate  $25.00
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
68 Cutlass Rear Bumper (core)  $75.00
68-72 Cutlass S LH Rear Side Glass (clear)  $35.00              
Rear Window Molding Sets  $45.00 set                               
68 Cutlass/442 Std Horn Button (black, nice)  $7.00                     
68-72 Rear Hood Molding  $25.00 ea
68-72 Cowl mouldings  $25.00 ea                                
68-72 B-Pillar Molding Sets (black, mint) $27.50 pr 

69 Cutlass/442
69 SSII Wheels 14x6 (5 w/trim rings and NOS caps, very nice) $340.00 set
68-69 Rallye Pac (Very nice)  $425.00 
68-69 LH Post Coupe Door (very nice)  $75.00
68-69 Hurst Olds Dual Bail Master Cylinders $38.00 (+$18.00 core) 
68-69 Front Side Marker Lights  $17.00 pr
68-69 Glove Box Door  $15.00
69 442/Cutlass RH Tail Lens (mint) $35.00 ea 
69 Cutlass/442 Conv trunk lid (mint)  $150.00
69 Hood Tongue $30.00
69 Front Grille Center Filler (between grilles)  $8.00
69 Full Hubcaps (nice)  $35.00 set
68-69 Cutlass "S"/442 Wheel Well Moldings (nice, 3)  $90.00 (3)
69-72 Hood Hinges  $40.00 pr
69-70 "S" Hood Louver Chrome  $25.00 pr
69-70 "S" Hood Louver Moldings  $25.00 pr
68-72 Windshield Molding Sets  $45.00 set                                 
69 LH Top Fender Moldings (excellent) $35.00
69 Front and Rear 4 Doors  (small dings, no rust) $35.00 ea
69 4 Door Panels (Gold, cloth, nice)  $25.00 ea
69 Cutlass/442 Wiper Switch $25.00

70 Cutlass/442
70 OAI Hood (nice)  $800.00 
70 OAI Hood (good) $400.00
70-72 Conv Trunk Lids (Mint, used) $250.00 ea
70 442 Rear Bumper Cores $100.00 ea
70 442 Hood Tongue (mint) $55.00
70 W-31 350 Intake (very nice) $425.00
70-72 Dash Pads (various colors, mint)  $100.00 ea
70 Fender Eyebrows (nice, no pits)  $45.00 pr
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $40.00 pr
70 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr
70-71 Halo Vinyl Top Molding sets no "L " moldings (mint) $55.00 set
70-72 Vista Cruiser Tailgate Switch Bezels  $5.00 ea             
70 Oldsmobile Options Folder  $5.00                                    
69-70 C/S Front Hood Rocket (nice)  $12.00                                
70 "S" Pillared Coupe Door Panels (good cond)  $40.00 pr         
70-72 Glove Box Doors  $15.00 ea
70 Cutlass 'S' Tail Light Lens (restored)  $15.00 ea
70 Cutlass Supreme Tail Light Lens (restored) $23.00 ea

71 Cutlass/442
70-71 Cutlass Supreme Side Marker Lights $60.00 set
70-72 Conv Trunk Lids (Mint, used) $250.00 ea
71 Cutlass "S" Grilles (very nice used)  $125.00 pr
70-72 Dash Pads (various colors, mint)  $100.00 ea
71-72 Cutlass Rear Bumper (super nice core) $100.00
71-72 Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $45.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $30.00 pr
71 Cutlass Full Wheel Covers  $30.00 set
71-72 Sport Mirrors (complete) $90.00 set
71 Headlight Bezels (restored) $50.00 pr

72 Cutlass/442
72 Deluxe Steering Wheel (very nice Green, no cracks) $125.00
70-72 Conv Trunk Lids (Mint, used) $250.00 ea
70-72 Dash Pads (various colors, mint)  $100.00 ea
71-72 Cutlass Rear Bumper Core  $45.00
71-72 Cutlass Rear Bumper (super nice core) $100.00
70-72 C/S Quarter End Caps (nice) $30.00 pr
72 Cutlass/442 Owners Manual  $7.00                                  
71-72 Sport Mirrors (complete) $90.00 set
72 Headlight Bezels (restored) $40.00 pr            
72 Tail Light Lens  $13.00 ea used, $26.00 ea (N.O.S.)

81-88 Cutlass / 442 / Hurst/Olds 
USED
81-88 Used Cutlass/442/Hurst Full Quarter Panels (mint, w/ inner & outer
wheel house)  $300.00 pr
81-88 Used Cutlass/442 Fenders (mint)  $75.00 ea
81-88? Used Front Bumpers (chrome, very nice)  $90.00
81-88? Used Rear Bumpers (chrome, very nice)  $95.00
81-86 Used Front Header Panel (very good)  $85.00
81-86 Used Front Bumper Rubber (nice)  $60.00
81-88 Used Rear Bumper Rubber (nice)  $60.00
81-88 Used Trunk Lid (mint)  $75.00
81-88 Used Interior Rear Side window panels (mint, burgundy)  $75.00 pr
81-84 Tail Light Assm (used, mint pair)  $150.00

(NOS)
Rear Hood Molding and (2) Top Fender Moldings  $70.00 set
Center Hood Molding  $35.00
Front Bumper Chrome Stripes (2) $85.00 ea
85-88 LH&RH Taillight Assm  $105.00 ea
85-88 LH&RH Taillight Bezels  $85.00 ea
Rear Bumper Chrome Strips and clip ends  $300.00
Rear Bumper Emblem "Oldsmobile"  $30.00
Front Bumper Emblem "Oldsmobile"  $30.00
Dash Emblem "Oldsmobile"  $15.00
Rear Window molding set (4 pieces)  $230.00
Dash Gauge Plastic Lens  $40.00
Front Windshield Molding Set (3 pieces) $210.00
Front Windshield Large Lower Molding  $68.00
(4) Front and Rear Side Marker Lens  $100.00 set
(2) Dash Vents (Center)  $20.00 ea
(2) Dash Vents (Long Pass. Side)  $23.00 ea
LH&RH Rear Side Windows (w/chrome Bead)  $175.00 ea
LH&RH Door Seals  $150.00 ea
Radiator Insulators (Upper and Lower)  $8.00 ea
LH&RH Door Sill Plates  $65.00 ea
85-88 Pwr Window Switch (2 button Drivers side)  $45.00
Air Cleaner Air Inlet Duct  $20.00
LH&RH Door Handles  $55.00 ea
LH&RH Turn Signal Lens Assm  $30.00 ea
LH&RH Side Window Molding sets  $inquire
LH&RH Headlight Bezels  $40.00 ea 
  
New reproduction parts:
Convertible Top Boots (Correct Grains for each different year)  $104.00ea
64  Black, Red, Lt. Blue, Fawn, Saddle, Turquoise, White
65  Same as 64  
66-67 Black, Red, Light Blue, Med. Blue, Bronze, Turquoise, White, Gold
68-72 Black, Red, Parchment, Lt. Blue, Teal Blue, Green Gold, Gold, Pearl,
Dk Blue, Dk. Green, Lt. Green, Lt. Saddle, Dk Saddle, Olive Green, Royal
Blue, White, Sandalwood, 

Molded Carpet Sets  $109.00 
64-67 - (Black, Red, Med. Blue, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Maroon)
68-72 - (Black, Red, Maroon, Turquoise, Gold, Dk. Blue, Med. Blue, Dk.
Green,
Green Gold, Lt. Green, Teal Blue, Saddle, Sandalwood)
73-77 - (Same as 68-72 except Green Gold)

Door Panels  64-72  $275.00 for a set of all 4

Seat Covers  64-72  $355.00 front and rear sets any year or color.

Lifetime Guarantee on all correct bead window felts  $92.00 set (inner &
outer)
68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv Window Felts (not Supreme Coupes, correct bead) 
68-72 2 Dr Hardtop/Conv (Outers only, correct bead)  $50.00

Glove Box Liners
68-69 Glove box Liner w/clips  $18.99
70-72 Glove box Liner w/clips  $18.99

Qrt Seals
70-72 Cutlass Supreme & Conv Qtr End seals  $13.00 pr

Hood Insulation
68-70 Cutlass/442 Hood Liner (w clips)  $24.00
70-72 Cutlass Supreme Hood Liner (w/clips)  $24.00
73-77 Cutlass $30.00

Liner Clips
Round Clips  $.75 ea
Square Clips  $.75 ea

A-Arm Shields
68-72 Upper A-Arm dust shields  $18.99 pr

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 20:58:18 -0400
From: J&T <tjf26@gte.net>
Subject: High RPM stall question

I hope someone might be able to help me with a problem I started to have
with my 71 442. It runs fine under normal driving conditions and when i
get on it. The trouble is when it hits higher RPM, like right before
shifting gears it bog's down right after the shift for a moment and then
kicks back in. I put a new rotor, cap and points on about 500 miles ago.
It ran ok until I brought it out this Spring. Anyone have any ideas what
to check? It has a 70 455, turbo 400.
                                             Thanks, Joe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 21:07:07 -0400
From: "W-MACHINES" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: Fw: Head bolts for 455

If anyone can help, please let him know privately, as it appears he's not
on the list.

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com   
Centennial Feature at http://www.en.com/users/wmachine/wm.html
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 - Sold ;(
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: Blutoe24@aol.com
> To: wmachine@en.com
> Subject: Head bolts for 455
> Date: Saturday, May 15, 1999 12:15 PM
> 
> Hello, I am looking for head bolts for Edlebrock aluminum heads part #
8558.  
> I cant find them anywhere at all, maybe you guys can help please E-mail
me 
> back thanks, Kurt...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 21:34:23 -0400
From: Crotts Family <krotz@roanoke.infi.net>
Subject: Re: High RPM stall question

Mine did the same thing, and I never figured it out. I did however put in a
new HEI and the problem stopped. Andy

J&T wrote:

> I hope someone might be able to help me with a problem I started to have
> with my 71 442. It runs fine under normal driving conditions and when i
> get on it. The trouble is when it hits higher RPM, like right before
> shifting gears it bog's down right after the shift for a moment and then
> kicks back in. I put a new rotor, cap and points on about 500 miles ago.
> It ran ok until I brought it out this Spring. Anyone have any ideas what
> to check? It has a 70 455, turbo 400.
>                                              Thanks, Joe

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 21:44:07 -0400
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: High RPM stall question

Sounds like carb problems to me.

- -----Original Message-----

>I hope someone might be able to help me with a problem I started to have
>with my 71 442. It runs fine under normal driving conditions and when i
>get on it. The trouble is when it hits higher RPM, like right before
>shifting gears it bog's down right after the shift for a moment and then
>kicks back in. I put a new rotor, cap and points on about 500 miles ago.
>It ran ok until I brought it out this Spring. Anyone have any ideas what
>to check? It has a 70 455, turbo 400.
>                                             Thanks, Joe
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 20:53:57 -0500 (EST)
From: hurst455@webtv.net (Corey Putnam)
Subject: Taillight problem

   The taillights on my H/O are giving me problems. They work fine when
the parking lights are on but when the brakes are hit the top bulb on
the drivers side goes out and the bottom bulb on the passenger side also
goes out. The other two bulbs act normally, getting brighter. I`ve
checked all the bulbs and traced the wiring and everything looks OK.
   Any ideas on where to start looking would be appreciated, thanks. 

Corey Putnam
75 H/O W-30(my way)
87 Regal w/Olds 455
H/OCA #0915A
OCC #0208
OCA #031264
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 20:59:59 -0500 (EST)
From: hurst455@webtv.net (Corey Putnam)
Subject: OCC National

  Anyone going to be at the OCC meet this coming Saturday in Milwaukee?

Corey Putnam
75 H/O W-30(my way)
87 Regal w/Olds 455
H/OCA #0915A
OCC #0208
OCA #031264
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 21:23:28 -0500
From: "Walker" <pwalker@megavision.com>
Subject: early Q-jet choke assy

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BE9FE2.573A0CC0
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

    Does any have or know where Ican get a choke asslembly (the one that =
fastens to the passenger side)
for a 66 Q-jet. I am tired of operating the choke by hand. It was MIA =
when i got it. Any help would be
appreciated. Thanks.




     John.
67 CS  455/TH350 (maybe 425/TH400 soon)


- ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BE9FE2.573A0CC0
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Does any have or =
know where=20
Ican get a choke asslembly (the one that fastens to the passenger=20
side)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>for a 66 Q-jet. I am tired of =
operating the=20
choke by hand. It was MIA when i got it. Any help would be</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>appreciated. Thanks.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
John.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT><FONT size=3D2>67 CS&nbsp; =
455/TH350 (maybe=20
425/TH400 soon)</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_000A_01BE9FE2.573A0CC0--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 19:26:07 -0700 (PDT)
From: EDMUND WILLIAMS <efw67@yahoo.com>
Subject: 70 88/98 FENDERS

I am looking for good 70 88/98 front fenders in the US. I live in New
York. I would prefer to get them in New York, but anywhere in the US is
good. I will pay a reasonable price for them. thanks ED

_____________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 22:39:34 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: What went wrong?

In a message dated 5/15/99 9:40:57 PM Eastern Daylight Time, plh@nbn.net 
writes:

<< I'm assuming that the higher the number the hotter the plug - am I
 wrong?  Maybe the lower the number the hotter the plug and the 44S are
 actually the hotter ones and I need to go back to the 46S.  Someone
 please explain this to me.>>

You are correct.  The higher the number the hotter the plug.
 
 <>

I would double check the firing order.  If you took more than one plug wire 
off at a time it is easy to cross them.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 22:44:38 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: early Q-jet choke assy

>    Does any have or know where Ican get a choke asslembly (the one that 
fastens to the passenger side)
> for a 66 Q-jet. I am tired of operating the choke by hand. It was MIA when i 
got it. Any help would be
> appreciated. Thanks.
>
They are very numerous at junkyards.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/dual exhaust/
        sometimes Q-Jet, sometimes Holley/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 19:57:59 PDT
From: "OldsMaster Erickson" <cutlassnep@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: car names..

My car's name is Laura. Laura is named after my bestfriend thoughout my 
life. Laura is a 1966 Cutlass I got from my aunt for free when I was 13. I 
am currently resoring Laura...she just got all her body work done, I got a 
425 for her!!!, and she is getting painted finaly next weekend I think. She 
has whiteprimer on her now, and it looks pretty good. I think naming your 
Olds keeps a connection to it, and you should never just think of it as a 
mode of transpertation!
Kelly & Laura

>From: Kimberly Ann Wandrey <kaw0006@jove.acs.unt.edu>
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>Subject: Re: car names..
>Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 22:56:51 -0500 (CDT)
>
>Hello Everyone!
>
>I know I have been scarce lately, but between wrapping up the semester and
>work things have been hecktic. Here is my reply to this thread: I am the
>proud Mommy of two beautiful Oldsmochildren, Junior and Hope.
>
>Junior is my Nordic Blue '72 Olds Cutlass Supreme. My Grandpa Jenkins
>ordered and purchased Junior in 1972. I was six months old when Junior
>joined our family. He has been a family car all along and I will be buried
>in him. I inherited him when I was 15 and my Dad and I restored him and I
>drove him through high school, college and now graduate school. Junior is
>powered by a 350 4bbl Carter 625 and a 350 turbo transmission. He is very
>popular on the street and gets lots of attention. (Beleive me, they always
>look at the car, not the ugly driver) ;) Junior is my workhorse. He is
>extremely dependable drivetrain wise. He does need interior and body work
>and that will come after I graduate with my Master's next year.
>
>Leading up to Hope: I was looking for a good truck or car to take over the
>responsiblity of being a daily driver so I can retire and begin restoring
>Junior. Hope is my '64 F-85. Hope was bought by my friend Ronnie's mother
>after her Tarino was wrecked. His mother drove Hope, and her family got
>her a different car. Ronnie inherited Hope and drove him for a while and
>then problems with the brakes, motor and carb happened. So Hope sat. My
>friends and I had a great time in the car, and the car was always neat. I
>liked Hope right off the bat after they bought him and kept threatening to
>steal it. ;) It seemed like fate because each time I found a truck I liked
>the deal fell through or I did not have the money.
>
>Hope's inspection ran out and the city sent Ronnie the notice about either
>remove your car or we will crush it for you and I immediately jumped on
>the opportunity to purchase Hope. I renamed him Hope because it is such a
>good solid car and it seemed wasteful just to let it be junked. So I gave
>him another chance at life. :) Hope currently has a 330 and a two speed
>automatic tranny, but I think the motor is cracked. So if that is the case
>Hope will become Mom's Hot Rod and will get a 455/400 set up. :) My goal
>is to begin work on Hope in the fall.
>
>Take care, everyone! I hope to see you at the Nationals next month! Junior
>and I will be there! :)
>
>Kim, Junior ('72 Cutlass Supreme) & Hope ('64 F-85) :)
>Dallas, Texas
>Member NTOC & OCA
>


_______________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 22:07:08 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: X-man Bolt Snapped! :(

well I gotta hit this as well just use stainless bolts they are available
from most hardware stores
dont rust or sieze good suggestion...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Mike Bloomer <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, May 16, 1999 5:20 PM
Subject: Re: X-man Bolt Snapped! :(


>
>
> >I had the same thing happen a few weeks ago, if there is a small portion
of
> the
> >bolt sticking out do what I did. We welded a nut to the broken bolt
> sticking
> >out, hence then we could remove it :~). Andy
> >You also may want to install stainless studs with nuts on you reassembly.
>
>
> Good suggestion, but on the studs there is usually not enough room to be
> able to slide the manifold over them.  When using nuts on exhausts, use
> brass ones, as they don't seize on like steel ones.
>
> Mike Bloomer
> mbloomer@mindspring.com
> ICQ# 19113713
> http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 20:08:31 PDT
From: "Raymond Dowty" <raymond338@hotmail.com>
Subject: minor carb problems

hey guys,
i havn't been on the list for a little while cause i had to move back down 
to charleston since spring semester ended.  just now got back online.
i have two problems (with my 1970 98, rochester quadrajet):
my throttle spring broke.  i assume it was just a single spring (it went 
flying, couldn't find it).  i can't find a generic replacement that is 
strong enough to pull the lever all the way down.  any suggestions, maybe a 
brand or a part number.  anything would be great, i have tried at least a 
dozen so far and none of them will work. (i have made sure to lube all the 
joints and they still aren't strong enough)
my choke pull off vaccuum diaphram also broke.  i think that is what it is; 
it is located (looking at the carb from the front of the car) on the left 
front of the carb. i don't know if it is the primary one or the secondary 
one, but the only one they had was the primary and it was too long (the arm 
coming out the back was longer than the one that came off the car).  i 
figure maybe it was already replaced once and the wrong one was put on.  or 
it is possible the whole carb was replaced at some point (how would i know 
this?).  or maybe the parts store just can't get me one in which case i need 
to find someplace that can sell me one.  any suggestions on which one of 
these leads i should follow up on first?
sorry for the length and triviality,
ray


_______________________________________________________________
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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 20:13:15 PDT
From: "OldsMaster Erickson" <cutlassnep@hotmail.com>
Subject: Fwd: For The Olds List Members

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_7ed492c3_586e9e58$7fc72848
Content-type: text/plain; format=flowed;

Here list, Ken Snyder asked me to send this, so here it goes!




Kelly,

When you can, forward this to the Olds List.  I hope to be rejoining soon,
the house project has been a real trial but thankfully it's almost to the
stage where we'll own it, but the move will have to wait.  But here's the
reason for this e-mail:

OLDS LITERATURE FOR SALE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've had this literature stored in my house's attic for years now, and in
both anticipation of our impending move and hopes to raise money to keep the
racing project moving forward I've decided to sell it all ASAP.  Here's the
web address that has all the details:

http://members.aol.com/aqwiring/sale.htm

Please note that all these prices are negotiable, and discounts for bulk
orders.  If you have any questions, don't hesitate to drop me a note.  Send
them to:

aqwiring@aol.com

so I can keep them separate and respond as quickly as possible.

Thanks everyone, hope to be back soon!
Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas



>From: SPcNEPsPc@aol.com
>To: cutlassnep@hotmail.com
>Subject: Fwd: For The Olds List Members
>Date: Sat, 15 May 1999 01:00:06 EDT
>
>


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
- ------=_NextPart_000_7ed492c3_586e9e58$7fc72848
Content-Type: message/rfc822
Content-Disposition: inline

Return-path: KS7RACING@aol.com
From: KS7RACING@aol.com
Full-name: KS7RACING
Message-ID: <8428eba.246e3a09@aol.com>
Date: Fri, 14 May 1999 22:46:33 EDT
Subject: For The Olds List Members
To: SPcNEPsPc@aol.com
MIME-Version: 1.0
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
X-Mailer: AOL 4.0 for Windows sub 11

Kelly,

When you can, forward this to the Olds List.  I hope to be rejoining soon,
the house project has been a real trial but thankfully it's almost to the
stage where we'll own it, but the move will have to wait.  But here's the
reason for this e-mail:

OLDS LITERATURE FOR SALE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I've had this literature stored in my house's attic for years now, and in
both anticipation of our impending move and hopes to raise money to keep the
racing project moving forward I've decided to sell it all ASAP.  Here's the
web address that has all the details:

http://members.aol.com/aqwiring/sale.htm

Please note that all these prices are negotiable, and discounts for bulk
orders.  If you have any questions, don't hesitate to drop me a note.  Send
them to:

aqwiring@aol.com

so I can keep them separate and respond as quickly as possible.

Thanks everyone, hope to be back soon!
Take Care,
Ken Snyder
Kansas City, Kansas

- ------=_NextPart_000_7ed492c3_586e9e58$7fc72848--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 22:14:08 -0500 (CDT)
From: blue442@webtv.net (Jeff Carter)
Subject: Re: Taillight problem

Hey Corey,
Sounds as if you have a corroded connection or ground.  Cleaning the
contacts should help. Jeff Carter

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 23:23:30 -0400
From: "Randy Geisel" <Rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: car names./ Cinderella is dead!

My 72 Cutlass is named Cinderella! Why you ask..........I fix her up, take
to the ball (drag strip) and the majority of the time she comes home a
pumpkin.

I did exploratory heart surgery on her today. Not only did I break her
crank, but I broke her camshaft, bent a few pushrods and either bent or
broke almost every valve. I knew she needed a new heart as soon as I lifted
the intake. I can see straight through the #2 cylinder lifter bore, thru the
hole in the oil pan and see the grass growing under her! Still looking for
the #2 piston and rod. And where the heck is the lifter, pushrod, valve
bottom, and about 4" of the cam? I found some of the pieces in the exhaust
ports of the head and even in the intake after I pulled the carb. Better go
check the roadside again ;-)

I've never seen that much damage before, without putting a hole in the
block. She's trashed. Strangest thing about it is that the front two
counterweights on the crank are seezed, but I can spin what's left of the
piece in between. That and I've never seen 4 inches of a camshaft just
disappear.

I gotta pull the motor this week and see what it looks like with the oil pan
off. Think I'll hang onto this block as a conversation piece! That's the
last time I run out for smokes in an Olds ;-)  NOT!

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 00:00:16 -0400
From: "markss" <markss@sprint.ca>
Subject: new to oldsmobile

I am new the the world of olsdmobile. I have always been a GM man,
especially a chevy guy. I owned a 1980 Z28 and a !981 Monte Carlo. Now I am
the proud owner of a 1979 Delta 88 Royale. I hope there is someone out there
that can decode my VIN number. Here it goes:
3N69R9M105059. Hopefully someone out there can give me a hand.
markss@sprint.ca

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 16 May 1999 23:24:39 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Taillight problem

>>Hey Corey,
Sounds as if you have a corroded connection or ground.  Cleaning the
contacts should help. Jeff Carter<<


If you have the type of sockets that are spring loaded, take a good
look at how high the contact sits.  I have had the problem of broken
springs and while everything looked good, the contact was never 
touching the bulb.  Also check to see if your getting voltage to the 
rear or not.  That will point you down the right road of what to check.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 18 May 1999 00:48:16 -0400
From: "mrhell" <mrhell@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: new to oldsmobile

HI, and welcome to the world of Oldsmobile!

Here's your requested information:

3N69R9M105059 =

3 = Oldsmobile division
N = Model
69 = Type (2 door/4 door)
R = 350, 4bc, 8 cyl
9 = 1979
M = Assembly plant (made in Lansing, MI)
105059 = Production number

My book didn't show your Model or type, but hope I helped on the rest.

Welcome to the list,

RC Hellebuyck  -  OCA #30213
1971 4-4-2 convt
See my car and over 40 other Olds' at:
http://home.sprynet.com/~mrhell/oakbud.htm


- -----Original Message-----
From: markss <markss@sprint.ca>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, May 16, 1999 11:57 PM
Subject: new to oldsmobile


>I am new the the world of olsdmobile. I have always been a GM man,
>especially a chevy guy. I owned a 1980 Z28 and a !981 Monte Carlo. Now I am
>the proud owner of a 1979 Delta 88 Royale. I hope there is someone out
there
>that can decode my VIN number. Here it goes:
>3N69R9M105059. Hopefully someone out there can give me a hand.
>markss@sprint.ca
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 17 May 1999 01:46:11 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Q-jet experience/H*lp? LONG

	Well, hope some of you here can lend some advice. Got my 403 running 
(does so better than before at least hehe) and it actually isn't bad.  Here 
are my specs: 214/224 , approx. 474/486  @.050 cam, A-4 intake, rebuilt 
motor, fact. 1500(?) stall TH400, 2.56 rear gears, freshly rebuilt 1977 
750CFM Q-jet, dual fresh air intake. Basically everything else is stock (HEI, 
single exhaust, cat, compression, heads) HEI distributor likely off a 350 as 
well. I'll get right to my problem.
	The idle is a little rough, but ok for now. Not nearly as rough as it 
was with the vacuum leak it used to have. I haven't really messed with the 
idle mixture screws after I changed the timing, but I'm just wondering if 
slightly rough idling (almost positive it's not cam lope) is just one symptom 
pointing to a specific cause. Another problem is that light throttle 
off-idle, steady speed (anywhere from 1 MPH, and still detectable to at least 
35mph) is a "surge". I can actually feel it, and see it on the tach. it's not 
a jolt or anything, just like I'm tapping the throttle a little. It's 
consistent. Pretty sure it's in any gear too. 
	Next problem is right around 3500+RPM, the engine starts to "cut-out" 
Almost like it's too lean maybe...not real jerky like running out of gas, but 
again, you can feel it and see it on the tach (very small RPM jump) It does 
it in any gear, always at the same RPM. I find it hard to believe it's fuel 
delivery related, as it doesn't happen at a lower and lower engine speed if I 
rev it until it starts to act up, then let off for a second, then hit it 
again. It's always at 3500RPM. (give or take) 
	Ignition was suggested to me, but the plug wires are brand new, plug, 
cap and rotor relatively new, and I went through them to make sure they 
weren't damaged or in bad shape. Also, I would think if it was bad 
wires/cap/rotor/plugs, one misfire every so many revolutions would NOT 
produce a smooth, consistent surge that you would feel. And to have it run 
past, say 2000RPM and up to 3500 with no problems seems to also rule out 
ignition
	I had Karl check out my carb in his book, (thanks Karl) and although 
my carb was originally on an Olds 350, a 403 carb of the same year uses the 
same primary jets, just slightly different (think it was one number off) 
primary rod's. The secondary rods are the same. By the way, screwed with the 
secondary rods and hangars, went as wild as I could with them, until the car 
bucked coming off the line, then backed off a little with them. Adjusted air 
valve spring to open as quickly as possible (but still close fully)
	Weird thing is, the car acts the same after 3500RPM as it did with 
"too much" secondary rods/hangar combo coming off the line. I can't believe 
the motor would run rich at that RPM, nor that running lean with the 
secondary rods I have in there now is possible. I could go with bigger 
(diameter) secondary rods, but that should HURT my high RPM performance too. 
Light throttle off-idle should not be affected by the secondary rods, as far 
as I can tell.Plugs indicate a slightly lean condition (by color) but they 
aren't bone white, just a little gray. Anyone got any ideas? Sure would help, 
private or public ridiucule accepted if I'm missing something obvious : ) 
Thanks for bearing with this whole letter,   Dorian

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1961
*********************************

