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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1988


oldsmobile-digest        Monday, May 31 1999        Volume 01 : Number 1988



Signing off for a while
Igor's towing
Re: '68 350 budget power
65 442 Detailing Questions
Motor Sins
Tach Help
Re: Trailer Towing with my Delta and '79 98 info needed
Parts wanted for 65 442
Olds In Collectible Automobile
appraisals needed
To folks who want parts
dashes
Re: '68 350 budget power
Re: '68 350 budget power
Re: 65 442 Detailing Questions
Re: '68 350 budget power
snippage, blue smoke, 3rd try
Headers on a 350, was '68 350 budget power
re:Dot5
Re: '68 350 budget power
cam movement
New Olds nut?
Re: Igor's towing
Wanted 455 Alum Intake
Still need Salon Info
Re: New Olds nut?
(no subject)
Re: '68 350 budget power
local '68 Cs conv project
A/C Opinions
Re: Does this company exist?
Re: A/C Opinions
UNBOUNCE: '64 Jetfire parts
Re: Still need Salon Info
Re: where to put speakers 68 442 Rag 
Re: local '68 Cs conv project
Re: Sunday night musings
Tilt Column Question
Re: very Confused.
Flex Fans (Do or Don't)
Re: Tach Help
Re: Wanted 455 Alum Intake
160 deg. VS. 180 deg
RE: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)
Underdrive Pulley AGAIN
Re: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)
Re: UNBOUNCE: '64 Jetfire parts(Jetstar 88)
Headers (Do or Don't them)
RE: 160 deg. VS. 180 deg
Re: Underdrive Pulley AGAIN
RE: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)
Re: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)
Re: '68 Cutlass grille needed
posi problems
Re: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)
Re: posi problems
Re: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)
W-27  Rear Cover

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 11:36:41 -0500
From: Wyatt <Wyatt@jobax.net>
Subject: Signing off for a while

While scanning the e-mail from over the weekend I find a note from my
ISP sent out Saturday at 9:55pm telling all of us on jobax.net that the
system will be going down permanently after June 1.  How's that for
forewarning?
We will be headed to their office tomorrow morning looking for a refund
for the remaining month of the three that I had paid for.  Needless to
say I will have to sign off for a while, until I get connected via
another local provider with a local access number.  D*mn near everything
is long distance for us, which slims down my choices.

Olds content:  I am now walking short distances on my formerly broken
leg, so I will be getting the Olds inside to start on the restoration
soon

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 12:44:48 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Igor's towing

Igor,

You should be able to handle 5,000 lbs  without much trouble, perhaps as
much as 7,000 (weights include all passengers and luggage in the car as well
as the trailer weight).

Areas to watch:
The brakes.  Your originally 307 Delta came with the wimpy 9.5 inch rear
drums and smaller discs along with the 5 on 4.75 pattern axles.  You may
want to swap out this stuff for the large pattern hardware (5 on 5 bolt
pattern, 1/2 " wheel studs, 11" drums, etc.) commonly found on wagons and
98s.
Cooling system:  Make sure your radiator and fan / clutch are up to the
load.  A trans cooler and possibly engine oil cooler are not a bad idea.

Regards,
Fred

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 10:53:14 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: '68 350 budget power

FIFTY7C@aol.com wrote:
> 
> Thanks for the info. My understanding on the subject of headers is that there
> are no headers available that will fit my non-442 body. It is a Supreme.
> Something about the engine being off center and the frame being larger.

Nooooo, not this again.

The "engine offset" is a UOL (Urban Olds Legend).  To my knowledge nobody has
proven this to exist and there are lots of people who would love to.  

Just go out and buy some Hooker 3901 (1-5/8" for 68-77 Cutlass) or Dynomax
headers for a '68 Cutlass with a 350 and drop them in.
- -- 

Cliff "Not-Offset" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 13:00:31 -0400
From: Dave Tucker <dwtucker@cwix.com>
Subject: 65 442 Detailing Questions

I am in the process of detailing my 65.  I need some help on the color
schemes of Engine parts.

For example,

What is the color of the Power Steering Pump, the color of the Pulley and
the color of the cap?
    Here is what I think they are....  Pump - Semi-gloss black, Pulley -
Semi-gloss black, Cap - Silver

What is the color of the attaching brackets for the P/S pump?
    I think they are semi-gloss black.

What is the color of the Master Cylinder?
    I think is supposed to be basic cast color.  No paint.

Thanks in advance...

Dave Tucker

OCA # 031534

1965 Olds 4-4-2 Convertible 4-Speed (Target Red)
1999 Olds Alero GLS Coupe (Bright Red)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 13:08:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Motor Sins

some ASS would do something to such a nice motor.
============
You should see the photos of the ZR-1 motor from the scrap yard, with holes
punched thru the block... thru the top all the way down to the crank. I got one
of me, incognito, holding a hammer and punch as if 'twere I who made those
holes. In reality, of course, I rescue such items, not damage them.

Currently my highest-value find at there, exceeding the value of the H head
AND the 7040255 carb combined.

- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 13:09:03 -0400
From: Dave Tucker <dwtucker@cwix.com>
Subject: Tach Help

My 65 442 convertible has a tack mounted on the center console.  It was not
working, and I have since fixed it,  so it now works ok, but I know it is
not showing the correct number of Rpm's.  It seems to be farther off as the
Rpm's increase.

Is there a way to calibrate it?  And if so, how do you calibrate the tack?

Thanks for your help....

Dave Tucker

OCA # 031534

1965 Olds 4-4-2 Convertible 4-Speed (Target Red)
1999 Olds Alero GLS Coupe (Bright Red)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 11:12:59 -0600
From: Henry Stevens <hstevens@fwj.com>
Subject: Re: Trailer Towing with my Delta and '79 98 info needed

FWIW, I just inherited the family Delta 98 ('79 Regency 2-door) with the
455, and am using it specifically to tow our tent trailer. Smaller than
what you're looking at (about 1700 lbs), and the Delta has no trouble with
it. It passes lesser vehicles on Rocky Mountain uphill grades, trailer
attached.

As the new owner of said vehicle, I'm just getting to know it. Mechanically
sound, it's sprouting rust on just about every panel. I need to look at
options to keep the vehicle safe and on the road, so would be interested in
hearing from any other list members with the identical model. 

You can respond directly to save list bandwidth.

Thanks in advance.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 13:14:07 -0400
From: Dave Tucker <dwtucker@cwix.com>
Subject: Parts wanted for 65 442

I am looking for the following parts for my 65 442 convertible.

I want all of these in good condition please...

1)    Battery Tray
2)    Rear View Mirror
3)    Vacuum operated Trunk Release Solenoid (mounts under hood)

Does anyone have these or know where I might find them?

Thanks,

Dave Tucker

OCA # 031534

1965 Olds 4-4-2 Convertible 4-Speed (Target Red)
1999 Olds Alero GLS Coupe (Bright Red)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 14:32:25 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Olds In Collectible Automobile

Just picked up the August edition of Collectible Automobile, and former
JWO editor Penny Casteele's '49 76 woody wagon is featured in one of their
photo profiles.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 13:45:24 -0400
From: Howie <qcquad@cuny.campuscwix.net>
Subject: appraisals needed

I'm looking at a 70 442 W30 thats been to the track for $5500. It looks
like its been beat on,  neglected, and not started for some time.
What do you think?
Howie

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 13:48:49 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: To folks who want parts

From: Dan Williams <442much@home.com>
Subject: Needed:  68 Cutlass rear bumper bracket
I need a left hand side rear bumper bracket for a 68 cutlass/442.
Dan
- - --
Dan Williams                            442Much@home.com
Marion, IA                             68 442 Convertible
- ------
'75-6 dashes too.
=============
Dan, dash guys, others....
I have about 45 such parts cars. See the worst example at www.442.com, the '66
with "lots of potential..." [snicker].

If you need items like this, just give an email, or phone call... please be
SPECIFIC in email subject lines, to help sort from other mails. Parts cars
start with '62 Cutlass convertible thru oh, mid-80's Cutlass. '66 D88 2-door,
67 98 LS [Luxury Sedan], 68 98 LS, 70 98 2 dr., 66 Toro, 66 Toro, '68 Toro, '70
Toro, '73 D88 4 dr., etc., etc., etc.
- ---
As for prices, feel free to offer less than I initially ask. I am oft in the
mood to sell and do not quibble over a few bucks. An offer under 50% of the
asking price usually puts me in the chuckle zone, then again, depends on how
bad I want to move stuff. If I got an offer of oh, say, a couple hundred for
the whole lot of manuals..... it just might go away. Ditto for the parts, not
one radio inquiry yet, even as little as $50 for a radio?

Did the part about "take 50% off these prices" get missed?

Keep in mind the work involved in getting some of these parts. I had one guy in
Lansing here who wanted real bad the little clip thingy in LF wheel of '65 88
that drives the speedo cable. He thought $10 was too much for me to find the
car, shag the car, keep the car, pay the land taxes, build the fence, go get
the part, and deliver it to him. Fine- go make your owm, or find one by
searching all year at regular boneyards.

- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 13:52:31 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: dashes

I have a very nice '76 D88 Royale interior, red. Can't recall dash condition,
but I would sell a perfect dash for well under $650.

Just sold a 99% perfect one from a '66 Cutlass for just over $300. Have hardly
ever seen one that nice except new or JD redone.

Someone, who shall remain nameless, offered $100. Good price for an OK dash.
Based on this man's resources and position, and his use for same, I thought
this offer was absurdly low. To a kid restoring his own car, I might have
considered such a price. Othersise, I have storage at my disposal.

- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 13:56:34 -0400
From: "Gib Loudon" <cutlass@mill.tds.net>
Subject: Re: '68 350 budget power

Someone else wrote:
>Thanks for the info. My understanding on the subject of headers is that
there
>are no headers available that will fit my non-442 body. It is a Supreme.
>Something about the engine being off center and the frame being larger.

Well, As Cliff said,
This may well be an urban legend.  But even if it is not, I have been told
that the offset was only on the 70-72 supremes.  The 68 and 69 supremes have
the same exact body as the "S" and 442, but with different trim packages.
The 70-72 supremes had the "fastback", so to speak, rear on them.  Look more
like a 72 Monte Carlo than a cutlass.   So you should have no difference in
body styles between 68 model cutlai.  Headers will, almost positively, fit
the same as a 442.  Hope this helps....though I'm sure someone will flame me
for some unfortold reason. : ).

Gib "The Rocketman" Loudon
Check out Cutlass Net at:
http://www.cutlass.net
cutlass@mill.tds.net
>
>Anyone have experiences with this combo?
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 13:19:45 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: '68 350 budget power

>Thanks for the info. My understanding on the subject of headers is that
there
>are no headers available that will fit my non-442 body. It is a Supreme.
>Something about the engine being off center and the frame being larger.
>
>Anyone have experiences with this combo?

The only problem is if you have a manual trans car.  I have yet to see a set
of headers that will clear the "Z" bar in the clutch linkage.  If it's an
auto you
may need to move the brake junction block on the drivers side for clearance,
depending on how your headers fit.  Keep in mind that although they look
very different, the 68 to 72's all use the same frame and chassis
components,
more or less.  As for the gear swap, if you have the "Type O" 12 bolt, you
would
come out ahead to get a different rearend.  The later 8.5" 10 bolts are
plentiful
and easy to get parts for.  You can get one from a yard, have it rebuilt and
just
swap rearends which is fairly simple.  Back to the trans, if you want to
"feel"
the power more, consider a shift kit.  Not that complicated and fairly
cheap.
This is assuming you have a TH350, If you have a Jetaway (2spd) then a
swap to a TH350 would wake up the car also.  The reason I suggest the
10 bolt and the TH350 as opposed to the 12 bolt and TH400 is mainly
for cost since they should be more than strong enough for a small block
and with the TH350, it take less power to run than a TH400 which makes
the car seem more powerful.  I would be a bit hesitant to do a cam swap
on a high mileage stock motor, but that and a HEI would also be two
of your biggest bang for the buck options.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 14:10:15 -0500
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
Subject: Re: 65 442 Detailing Questions

Correct the PS pump should be 60% Gloss Black and the brackets should be 30%
Gloss black
The Pulleys are 60% which cap are you referring to? the PS cap is black
Plastic, the Radiator Cap
is Silver the oil cap is either silver or Gold iridite or Engine color, The
master Should be Unfinished Cast and a Gold iridite Cap.....KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Dave Tucker <dwtucker@cwix.com>
To: Olds Club Email <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 31, 1999 12:00 PM
Subject: 65 442 Detailing Questions


> I am in the process of detailing my 65.  I need some help on the color
> schemes of Engine parts.
>
> For example,
>
> What is the color of the Power Steering Pump, the color of the Pulley and
> the color of the cap?
>     Here is what I think they are....  Pump - Semi-gloss black, Pulley -
> Semi-gloss black, Cap - Silver
>
> What is the color of the attaching brackets for the P/S pump?
>     I think they are semi-gloss black.
>
> What is the color of the Master Cylinder?
>     I think is supposed to be basic cast color.  No paint.
>
> Thanks in advance...
>
> Dave Tucker
>
> OCA # 031534
>
> 1965 Olds 4-4-2 Convertible 4-Speed (Target Red)
> 1999 Olds Alero GLS Coupe (Bright Red)
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 14:02:34 -0500
From: "Kerry Kroger" <kerryk@freewwweb.com>
Subject: Re: '68 350 budget power

the engine offset thing is just BS it just appears that way, the frames are
all the same the 442 and cutlassi were all alike just the 442 had a big
block...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <FIFTY7C@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Monday, May 31, 1999 11:34 AM
Subject: Re: '68 350 budget power


> Thanks for the info. My understanding on the subject of headers is that
there
> are no headers available that will fit my non-442 body. It is a Supreme.
> Something about the engine being off center and the frame being larger.
>
> Anyone have experiences with this combo?
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 15:31:58 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: snippage, blue smoke, 3rd try

Jesus. Chris have you newer heard about snipping and removing unnesasery
mail?
Anyway mailed this gentleman with some lokale junkyard (Norway Sweden)
that might have something

Trond
===============
Har har freakin hardy har
I assume this is a remark because I am or was known as the Chief Bitch about
snipping exc
host: ss
Couldn't match host name or address - please try again
host:

as I was saying, I was the Chief Bitch about snippage. I have been slacking
perhaps lately because my email is being a HUGE pain in the ass. E.g., the
above "host: ss" line... the computer just dropped the line for no apparent
reason in the midst of this reply. It does that every 2 to 20 minutes. Now it
has even taken to corrupting my text storage files, where I store email text to
bring back into email later.. and they will not open at all then. I lose much
stuff. This sucks, hardly worth the effort.

I have held my tongue about matters such as the bitching about "off topic"
which outweighs actual off-topic by about 10:1.

I try to contribute interesting & useful stuff, help others... like Euro-man
here. And the last 2-3 digests I read has a few if not several post of the "me
too" variety containing a repost of the entire item me-too'd to. And, of
course, the nice MIME folks which comes thru my email as about 150% of the
original tes
host: t intermingled

Isn't that special... booted twice in the same reply.

ok... MIME adds the original text intermingled with 50% more garbage. What
fun, esp. with emailer working like this. Takes me about 5 minutes to
restart the program and get reconnected, only to have it happen AGAIN.
- ------
In my experience, blue smoke oft arises from the valve guides coming off
in pieces, which along with sludge, clog up the oil return holes in the
heads. This of course leaves the valve stems drenched in oil,
exacerbating the problem. Half-solved by simply removing RACovers, removing
the blockage at both ends of both heads. New valve seals would be the other
half, but adds a lot of work to the job. Easy enough to investigate.
- ---RS---


- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 14:38:49 CDT
From: "Steve Traynor" <dartster@hotmail.com>
Subject: Headers on a 350, was '68 350 budget power

Well, along a similar vein...I've sneaked a peek at the frame where the 
exhaust manifolds are, and it looks like the frame just barely misses the 
manifolds. How is it possible to get headers to fit? Now, I know next to 
nothing about headers, but there just doesn't look like there's enough room 
for them there.  I'm thinking there's less than an inch clearance between 
the manifolds and the frame.

Steve
1970 Cutlass S Hardtop
Garland, TX
ICQ# 108901, Use "Olds list" as Request for Authorization

Favorite motivational line, seen at a Renassaince Faire: "The beatings will 
continue until morale is up!"




_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 12:33:13 pdt
From: "Dal Allan" <endlcom@ibm.net>
Subject: re:Dot5

Hi Brian,

I echo the positive comments you have heard on Dot 5. 

 - The 1976 Avanti came from the factory with Dot 5 and there 
   has never been a brake problem in over 20 years. The car was 
   a daily driver and then dropped off the daily routine because 
   of a re-paint. Since then it has seen only occasional use and 
   with any other brake fluid I'd have had to replace brake 
   cylinders at least once if not twice. 

 - The 1967 Cutlass was converted to disc brakes so took 
   advantage of that to do a complete brake job and adopt Dot 
   5. This is a near show-quality car and gets low usage. 

 - The 1972 GS455 is about ready for brakes and will be 
   converted to Dot 5 when that gets done. 

Since you've got an all-new system, it is a simple choice to make 
because there are few times when it is easy to adopt Dot 5.

Most people who complain about Dot 5 tried to get away with a 
partial conversion. You must use new brake cylinders and 
calipers, and I've got my doubts about reusing the master 
cylinder. You can retain the brake lines by using alcohol to 
flush them several times and running compressed air to dry them 
out afterwards (did that on the Olds). 

You will hear stories about soft pedals with Dot 5. Not true, 

that is a function of pouring in Dot 5 like it was Dot 3. Bubbles 
are hard to evacuate in Dot 5 so you want to create as few as 
possible and that means slow and gentle care. 

Dot 5 is more viscous, so can escape through anything but a 
perfectly sealed system. Be sure to check the master cylinder 
fluid level until you are confident there are no leaks. 

Availability is poor at many parts stores, and they will try to 
con you into Dot 3+ or Dot 4. Dot 5.1 is not silicon, be careful 
about having someone push this at you because it is the latest 
and greatest (it is for heavy duty Mack truck applications). 

NAPA carries Dot 5, and you can always special order. It is a 
good idea to carry a bottle in the trunk when out driving for the 
first few times after conversion (you don't want to get stranded 
because of a leak). 

Brake fluid is nasty stuff. The effect of absorbing moisture on 
your brake cylinders and your brake lines is insidious and 
dangerous plus all it takes is one careless moment for your great 
paint job to become history. 

Dot 5 is more expensive than Dot 3 but you will never have to do 
another brake job or incur a loss of braking due to internal 
rusting of cylinders or calipers. With the investment you've made 
in your brakes so far, you won't even notice the extra dollars 
for the best stuff to put inside the lines. 

Dal

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 13:57:15 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: '68 350 budget power

I wrote:
> 
> The "engine offset" is a UOL (Urban Olds Legend).  To my knowledge nobody has
> proven this to exist and there are lots of people who would love to.
> 
> Just go out and buy some Hooker 3901 (1-5/8" for 68-77 Cutlass) or Dynomax
> headers for a '68 Cutlass with a 350 and drop them in.

I just looked at my '69 documentation and noticed that the Supreme is only
listed as a Sedan with different length, width, wheelbase, etc. from the coupes
so what I said about the Cutlass headers fitting may be wrong.  Sorry, I don't
have any '68 documentation at work so I can't check it.

Sorry for the confusion, I jumped the gun to kill the offset thread and
misspoke, I apologize,
- -- 

Cliff "Tasting Shoe" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 16:08:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: cam movement

to the guy who says hic moved "about 1/2 inch" when he pried it back-n-forth...
that is definitely not OK, man. I would bet that someone use a regular bolt for
the fuel pump eccentric. The  correct bolt is supposed to have a long head
witha smooth tip to bump up against the timing cover if necessary and thus
restrain cam motion. In any event, if cam fore-aft motion exceeds a few thou,
say 1/16" or so, you will be $$$ ahead to pull her apart NOW and find out why
this is happening.
- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 16:12:01 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: New Olds nut?

I keep forgetting to mention...

Recently found out that there's another one of us on the way. Angela is about 8
weeks along, 9 maybe, and should pop out another one right after Christmas
12/99. Two boys already, this time a girl for sure.

Olds content: I get to choose name this time, she'll be called Reo.
- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 14:12:40 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Igor's towing

> Igor,
>
> You should be able to handle 5,000 lbs  without much trouble, perhaps as
> much as 7,000 (weights include all passengers and luggage in the car as
well
> as the trailer weight).

I think that the two trailers weight aprox. 3300 and about 4000 lbs dry

> Areas to watch:
> The brakes.  Your originally 307 Delta came with the wimpy 9.5 inch rear
> drums and smaller discs along with the 5 on 4.75 pattern axles.  You may
> want to swap out this stuff for the large pattern hardware (5 on 5 bolt
> pattern, 1/2 " wheel studs, 11" drums, etc.) commonly found on wagons and
> 98s.

I still have the front stock disks, but the rear breaks are 11" from a late
'70s big Buick from which the rear-end came from.  My '98 has big front
disks.

> Cooling system:  Make sure your radiator and fan / clutch are up to the
> load.  A trans cooler and possibly engine oil cooler are not a bad idea.

My rad is brand new and it is a big one (3 row or 4, I can't remember, but
its is for a HD cooling).  I have a big trans cooler of course but no engine
oil cooler.  I would like to try a flex-fan to see how it goes.  I am
curious to see if it would cool better then the stock fan-clutch.  I can now
hit up to 200 degrees in the staging lane (180 hi-flow).  160 and a flex fan
might help me.

 > Regards,
> Fred

Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 16:07:00 -0400
From: "mAIL" <nicka@localnet.com>
Subject: Wanted 455 Alum Intake

Looking for a used Alum. intake in good condition for BB Olds. e-mail with
condition, model and price.
Thanks- Nick

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 16:16:02 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: Still need Salon Info

Anyone with tips on '78 Salon PLEASE
email my address, given below.

Prospective seller showing me soon, grandma's car, <50k miles '78 Salon.

I am searching feeble memory, thinking AL hood, buckets, console, etc. I
apparently left her a note while she was at the U stating that if she EVER
wants to sell her car, give me a call.

$$ value of such a beast?

Fun options- T-tops maybe?

- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 14:25:03 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: New Olds nut?

Chris Brown Witt wrote:
> 
> I keep forgetting to mention...
> 
> Recently found out that there's another one of us on the way. Angela is 
about 8
> weeks along, 9 maybe, and should pop out another one right after Christmas
> 12/99. Two boys already, this time a girl for sure.

Congratulations but don't paint the room pink yet or you will have a boy for
sure :)  

BTW: I have found that pregnant women react poorly to the phrase "pop out".  It
seems that they don't just pop out, there is some work involved.
- -- 

Cliff "Dad x 2" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 16:25:43 -0400
From: Andy & Margie Crotts <krotz@roanoke.infi.net>
Subject: (no subject)

unsubscribe

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 16:33:51 EDT
From: FIFTY7C@aol.com
Subject: Re: '68 350 budget power

I have run into the wheelbase/length discussion before. Someone once told me 
that the doors were 4" wider on a Supreme! I think the truth is that only the 
4 doors have a longer wheel base. 

What I think I am hearing on the headers is that they should work but no one 
has put them on a Supreme. The people that originally told me that headers 
would be a problem were header reps. at shows and the desk people at the main 
mail order companies. 

By the way, I have an auto trans. I had a 700R4 with a shift kit installed. 
It seemed to be a good compromise between the original 2 speed and changing 
the whole thing over to manual. I don't know if this trans. will cause any 
additional clearance problems or not.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 16:36:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: "Chris Brown Witt" <wittchri@pilot.msu.edu>
Subject: local '68 Cs conv project

Local guy has interesting project:

1968 Cutlass S- maybe, fenders have been changed.
Convertible. Has top, was down, did not see it. Has boot.
Says it has a 400-2V motor, presumably the G-400 motor, ood would not open.
Has S hood.
Moderate rust, fender bottoms, floor pans, etc. No decklid seen. Trunk full of
used parts. Runs & goes apparently. TILT WHEEL. No carpet shows moderate floor
holes.

Best part: cheap at $1500/BO
- --
Chris Witt      *the* Rocket Scientist
Lansing, MI :=: wittchri@pilot.msu.edu
- --
517-882-9747 eves/wknds to 11pm MI time
Email text only please, No MIME, no attachments, no pictures.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 16:51:20 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: A/C Opinions

Well, in anticipation of our trip the Nationals in Texas next month, I
had the '67 Ninety Eight home for the weekend checking out it's vital
systems (Comfortron, Cruise and cooling).  I had to run a deposit to the
bank today and took the Olds.  It was about a 14 mile round trip.  I
took a probe thermometer along to check the A/C outlet temp.  Here's
what I came up with:

Outside temp today was approx. 90'
Humidity was approx. 30%
Outlet temp hovered around 40-42'

The shop manual shows a range of 48-52' for these conditions, so I guess
I'm doing pretty good, although I was not following their procedure for
checking the temp, and have no way of checking the evaporator pressure
or high pressure to see if they are within specs.

I guess my problem is this:  Under "Sight Glass" the shop manual says
"The appearance of a steady flow of bubbles or foam, after the
compressor has run long enough to stabilize, indicates a shortage of
refrigerant, when checking in temperatures above 75'F."

I'm seeing foam.  But the system seems to be working alright.  Should I
go get freon added?  How do they know how much to add, by the pressures?

Or should I just leave it alone.  I'm satisfied with how it's working
right now, but it isn't really that humid.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 16:59:22 -0400
From: "laurencesimpson" <laurencesimpson@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: Does this company exist?

Randy:

    Yes it indeed does and did exist.  It began as Dees Limited in New York
around the late 70's.  One of the principals a fellow named Don Hartman
bought out his partner, took the company to the West Palm Beach area of
Florida, and renamed it A Little Different Limited.  Don was really the only
supplier of H/O stuff like the badges and stripe kits in the early days.
Oldsmobile wasn't interested, Hurst wasn't interested so he filled a void
that existed.  After 20 years of talking to people calling him at all kinds
of hours, he finally gave it up.  I say some of his stuff on ebay, and he
was selling under the  email address of junkdlr@aol.com or something like
that.  He also was involved in a mail order vitamin company.  He's an
interesting fellow, and could tell you a lot about the earlier 70's history
of Hurst.  He got started in it because he had a 69 H/O (he also owned
Linda's 69 convertible at one time), and couldn't fine exterior H/O badges
at the time.

    Laurence Simpson, D.D.S.
    1969 H/O
    1979 H/O
    1988 H/O
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Randy Geisel <Rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
To: Olds <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Friday, May 28, 1999 9:14 PM
Subject: Does this company exist?


> Has anyone heard of this company? A Little Different, Ltd.
>
> There are some H/O parts on a certain auction sight ;-) that I e-mailed
the
> seller about. She told me they were made by the above company and that
they
> were licensed back in the mid  to late 70's to repro H/O parts. I can't
> understand why a company would be licensed to make repros for 70's ear
H/O's
> that soon after production. Does anyone know if this company existed or am
I
> getting my chain yanked?
>
> TIA,
> Randy
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 16:05:47 -0500
From: "Eckie Prater" <Eckie@Prater.com>
Subject: Re: A/C Opinions

Paul,
The location of the sight glass on a system, is to indicate visually a
complete column of condensed liquid ref.
At this location in the ac system liquid is required to 'spray' into the
evaporator coil at the nozzle or expansion valve.
If you have foam or bubbles incomplete cooling will occur.
Sight glasses are a way of checking ref levels without gauges.
Regards,
Eckie Prater
- -----Original Message-----
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Monday, May 31, 1999 3:51 PM
Subject: A/C Opinions


>Well, in anticipation of our trip the Nationals in Texas next month, I
>had the '67 Ninety Eight home for the weekend checking out it's vital
>systems (Comfortron, Cruise and cooling).  I had to run a deposit to the
>bank today and took the Olds.  It was about a 14 mile round trip.  I
>took a probe thermometer along to check the A/C outlet temp.  Here's
>what I came up with:
>
>Outside temp today was approx. 90'
>Humidity was approx. 30%
>Outlet temp hovered around 40-42'
>
>The shop manual shows a range of 48-52' for these conditions, so I guess
>I'm doing pretty good, although I was not following their procedure for
>checking the temp, and have no way of checking the evaporator pressure
>or high pressure to see if they are within specs.
>
>I guess my problem is this:  Under "Sight Glass" the shop manual says
>"The appearance of a steady flow of bubbles or foam, after the
>compressor has run long enough to stabilize, indicates a shortage of
>refrigerant, when checking in temperatures above 75'F."
>
>I'm seeing foam.  But the system seems to be working alright.  Should I
>go get freon added?  How do they know how much to add, by the pressures?
>
>Or should I just leave it alone.  I'm satisfied with how it's working
>right now, but it isn't really that humid.
>
>Paul
>--
>Paul Hartlieb
>Myerstown, PA
>mailto:plh@nbn.net
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 18:14:41 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '64 Jetfire parts

Not on the list, respond to granny@gisco.net

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	Jean <granny@gisco.net>
Subject: '64 Jetfire parts

 I am looking for center link,an idler arm, for a 1964 Oldsmobile
Jetstar 88 Convertable and also rear bumper. If you know where I can get
these things, please e-mail me at granny@gisco.net My name is
John.Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 18:24:43 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Still need Salon Info

Isn't a '78 Salon one of those fastback/slantback numbers they made in
'78/'79? 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 17:23:45 -0400
From: "Rob Lewis" <fever@planeteer.com>
Subject: Re: where to put speakers 68 442 Rag 

Thanks I'll check for the mount
No rear speaker on this car.
Rob


- ----------
> From: Zitoj@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: where to put speakers 68 442 Rag 
> Date: Monday, May 31, 1999 12:57 AM
> 
> There may be factory speaker mount points in the top well, on the 
> convertables w/stereo radios, the rear speker went back there.  It was 
> mounted on the seat back and the grill faced into the top well, through
the 
> canvas.  There were a couple of posts about this recently.
> Not sure if they had stereo back in 68 or if it didn't come along until
69.
> 
> Jim
> 69 442 conv

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 18:28:03 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: local '68 Cs conv project

This reminded me of something I saw the other day that I never knew about.
Apparently in '68 Olds offered a "Police Interceptor" package for the
Cutlass "S". At least Motor Trend did an article on one. Came with a lot
of 4-4-2 equipment: 400 engine, h/d suspension with front/rear sway bars,
etc. etc. No 4-4-2 graphics though. Apparently it wasn't well publicized,
and if it actually was produced it was one of those deals where you had to
know the codes and find a cooperative dealer to order it for you. Maybe
this is one of those cars?

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 17:29:03 EDT
From: CChand4644@aol.com
Subject: Re: Sunday night musings

I noticed that Karl always referred to himself in the third person. I thought 
he was a little off. Now I know it is his car writing I feel much better 
about his mail.
Chris

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 18:32:13 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Tilt Column Question

I recently picked up a tilt steering column for my '68. It needs restoring
and rebuilding, which I'm told is not a big problem. What *is* a problem
is that it came out of a floor shift car and mine is a column shift. 
Whether this was originally a column shift one that was converted by
cutting off the lever attachment I dunno. Anyway, does anyone know if my
existing column "bowl" & mechanism for the column shifter would just swap
over to this one? Please say yes... or offer me a chance to swap columns
with someone.  :) 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 17:50:58 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: very Confused.

Old1970442@aol.com wrote:
>  
> So here is the question is she right or is there more colors that can be
> special order(that the center doesn't know about) ?

Well, we would all like to think that Helen is never wrong, but I guess
one has to get past her every now and then.  Let's blame if on the fact
that they're backed-up with mail right now due to their recent move.

There were 4 "Extra Cost" paint colors, #38 Aegean Aqua, #51 Sebring
Yellow, #53 Nugget Gold and #73 Rallye Red.  I guess all of these were
marked - - on the data plate, but don't know for sure.  Aqua and Gold
were available on all models, Yellow and Red were available only on the
intermediate models.  

>  TR 937     

White interior, bet that would make a sharp looking car with the Aegean
Aqua paint.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 16:15:11 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)

I know that this subject has been beat over time and time again, but here
goes yet again.

Are Flex Fans worth the money.  My stock set-up works okay, except at idle.
When I stage for a long time, the temp. gets up-to 200 degrees and I would
like to keep it down.  I was told that flex fans "always" spin and that they
don't have heat actuated clutches.  That should help at idle, as well as
free up some ponies at the top end going down the track.  After all, flex
fans are lighter and they, well, flex.

Lets hear from someone who has ran this.  What about the noise?  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 15:03:39 -0700
From: tarzan@foxinternet.net
Subject: Re: Tach Help

DAVE,
Im not familuar with tachs of that year but the 70-72 tachs have an adjustment
screw on the back. you will need to get a good working,accurate tach and hook
it up and adjust your tach to coorispond with the known accurate tach.

Also there is a web site called www.tachman.com .maybe he can help.DAN

Dave Tucker wrote:

> My 65 442 convertible has a tack mounted on the center console.  It was not
> working, and I have since fixed it,  so it now works ok, but I know it is
> not showing the correct number of Rpm's.  It seems to be farther off as the
> Rpm's increase.
>
> Is there a way to calibrate it?  And if so, how do you calibrate the tack?
>
> Thanks for your help....
>
> Dave Tucker
>
> OCA # 031534
>
> 1965 Olds 4-4-2 Convertible 4-Speed (Target Red)
> 1999 Olds Alero GLS Coupe (Bright Red)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 15:10:06 -0700
From: tarzan@foxinternet.net
Subject: Re: Wanted 455 Alum Intake

NICK,
I just purchased the last known edelbock performer aluminum intake. But i do
know the DICK MILLER of DICK MILLER RACING  has one or two. The price is about
$250.00 his number is 901-794-2834. hes in memphis tenn. He is a very nice guy
that is very very knowledgeable with oldsmobiles. Tell him DAN from seattle
sent you.DAN

mAIL wrote:

> Looking for a used Alum. intake in good condition for BB Olds. e-mail with
> condition, model and price.
> Thanks- Nick

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 16:26:00 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: 160 deg. VS. 180 deg

Will switching from a 180 high-flow thermostat to 160 high-flow make a
difference and when/where.  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 18:28:46 -0400
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)

Hey Igor!

I switched to a flex fan recently simply because my clutch went bad.  So I
figured, screw it, I'll ditch the clutch and get a pretty flex fan.  There
is extra noise, but nothing obnoxious.  I noticed no improvement n cooling
or anything, but there wasn't really any need for improvement anyway.
Perhaps it would have helped had it been desired.  The flex fan will
actually enslave some ponies, because it's always spinning where as a clutch
fan will spin when needed.  My opinion is that it doesn't really matter.  A
flex fan makes things simpler which is good and looks slightly better than a
regular fan.  I'd go with the flex fan, but I wouldn't go out of my way for
one.


Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 3.8 Calais
Bucks County, PA
mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo


> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Igor Todorovic
> Sent: Monday, May 31, 1999 6:15 PM
> To: OLDS LIST
> Subject: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)
>
>
> I know that this subject has been beat over time and time again, but here
> goes yet again.
>
> Are Flex Fans worth the money.  My stock set-up works okay,
> except at idle.
> When I stage for a long time, the temp. gets up-to 200 degrees and I would
> like to keep it down.  I was told that flex fans "always" spin
> and that they
> don't have heat actuated clutches.  That should help at idle, as well as
> free up some ponies at the top end going down the track.  After all, flex
> fans are lighter and they, well, flex.
>
> Lets hear from someone who has ran this.  What about the noise?  Thanks.
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 16:27:08 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Underdrive Pulley AGAIN

Okay, since no-one answered last time, I will try again.  Switching from a
large to a smaller main pulley will do exactly what???  Will it make my car
run hotter and will it give me more HPs.  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 16:29:45 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)

My opinion is that it doesn't really matter.  A
> flex fan makes things simpler which is good and looks slightly better than
a
> regular fan.  I'd go with the flex fan, but I wouldn't go out of my way
for
> one.

Thanks.  Maybe it is not such a good idea.  How do I know if a clutch is bad
or not.  Hey, whatever happened to those water-pump swaps that you were
getting good at.  Solved that problem?  How?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 18:33:28 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: '64 Jetfire parts(Jetstar 88)

You must have made a typo....Jetstar 88 Parts..

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 16:38:07 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Headers (Do or Don't them)

Okay, I know that I have asked many questions today and that of all, this
one has been beat the most.  BUT, knowing that it will be a pain in the ass
to get headers into my car, here is my question.

With a small, bottom end cam (a 455), 3.23 gears and 307 exhaust manifolds,
do I stand to gain anything from going with some headers (Flow Tech or
Headman or so, not Hooker as they are expensive) or not.  Will I loose any
power.  I am just trying to up my MPH through the traps so that I can run a
little better ETs but don't want to change the cam YET.  The car seems to
run out of steam just prior to 4000 RPM and I know that the problem is a
function of two: small cam and restrictive manifolds.  What about Starter
clearance and oil filter clearance.  Are they a bitch.  The car is a '81
Delta 88 and I heard that some '68-'72 Cutlass "S" headers would fit with
minor massaging.  Thanks.  Igor.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 18:41:06 -0400
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: 160 deg. VS. 180 deg

In an ideal situation, your car will run at 160.  That's a bit cool, I'd
say, but there's a good chance your car won't run that cool anyway.  I have
a 160 in my car now, and it runs at around 170-175.  I found that I had to
put a 160 in because with a 180, I'd break 200 at times (usually after a
trip down the Blue Route or something).  200's a bit too hot for me.  160's
a bit too cool for me.  180 just seems like such a nice temperature, not
sure why, it just seems nice.  So, I'd say it depends on how your car reacts
to it.  If it reacts like mine, I say it's good.  If it stays at 160 all the
time, I'd go back with the 180.

Isn't great that this kinda stuff matters again.  It just reminds you that
the damn winter is over and it's time to drive again!

Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 3.8 Calais
Bucks County, PA
mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo


> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Igor Todorovic
> Sent: Monday, May 31, 1999 6:26 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 160 deg. VS. 180 deg
>
>
> Will switching from a 180 high-flow thermostat to 160 high-flow make a
> difference and when/where.  Thanks.
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 18:40:50 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Underdrive Pulley AGAIN

Igor Todorovic wrote:

> Okay, since no-one answered last time, I will try again.  Switching from a
> large to a smaller main pulley will do exactly what???

What it does is allow the engine to expend less energy operating accessories,
like the alternator, water pump, power steering pump, A/C, etc.  This energy is
then available to actually propel the car.  The idea is the same as using a
longer vs. a shorter lever to lift a load.  If you use a longer lever, it's
easier to lift a load.

> Will it make my car
> run hotter and will it give me more HPs.

It ~may~ contribute to hotter operating temps, since the water pump is not
spinning as fast.  I say ~may~, because the cooling system may be able to
compensate.  Also, the alternator will slow down, too.  This may not be a
problem either.  Take before and after voltage checks to see how it affects the
charging.  Yes, it will free up more horsepower.  The amount freed depends on
how many accessories you're running and how much of a drag they currently
create.  In other words, I can't say how much you'll get :-)

- --
Thomas P. Smith
  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/dual exhaust/
        sometimes Q-Jet, sometimes Holley/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 18:45:36 -0400
From: "Master Costanzo" <costanzo@netcarrier.com>
Subject: RE: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)

Well, it's all related.  I decided that my wobbly fan was blowing the
bearings in my water pumps and it blew my clutch.  Since I sswitched to the
flex fan, I've done a decent amount of highway driving (that's when I'd blow
water pumps), and I haven't had any problems since.

I knew my clutch was bad because the fan was making a roaring sound.
Actually, I didn't know it was bad.  I described the sound to my Dad, and he
told me that the clutch was probably bad.  I still don't know why a bad
clutch would make the fan roar...I don't know. Something was bad so, I
ditched it all.  I think it was a good idea.  I've had this water pump on my
car for a while now!  I'm getting kinda bored!



Ray Costanzo
87 409 Cutlass
84 3.8 Calais
Bucks County, PA
mailto:costanzo@netcarrier.com
http://www.user1.netcarrier.com/~costanzo


> -----Original Message-----
> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Igor Todorovic
> Sent: Monday, May 31, 1999 6:30 PM
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)
>
>
> My opinion is that it doesn't really matter.  A
> > flex fan makes things simpler which is good and looks slightly
> better than
> a
> > regular fan.  I'd go with the flex fan, but I wouldn't go out of my way
> for
> > one.
>
> Thanks.  Maybe it is not such a good idea.  How do I know if a
> clutch is bad
> or not.  Hey, whatever happened to those water-pump swaps that you were
> getting good at.  Solved that problem?  How?
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 18:45:57 -0400
From: "Thomas P. Smith" <smithtp@ix.netcom.com>
Subject: Re: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)

Igor Todorovic wrote:

> Thanks.  Maybe it is not such a good idea.  How do I know if a clutch is bad
> or not.

Oh, YOU"LL KNOW!!  I had it happen.  First, there's lotsa noise.  Then, with 
the
engine off, you'll be able to wobble the fan around.  I ended up putting a
viscous coupling clutch on (as opposed the the thermostatic clutch)...just
'cause they were cheaper.  I sorta wish I woulda coughed up the bucks for the
clutch fan...more economical on gas.

- --
Thomas P. Smith
  1971 Cutlass S: 350 Rocket/TH350/Edelbrock OL4B/dual exhaust/
        sometimes Q-Jet, sometimes Holley/Mallory Unilite Conversion.
  1988 Plymouth Voyager 3.0:  Ummm...Let me think of something.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 18:52:16 -0400
From: Gene Gatti <jerseydevil@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: '68 Cutlass grille needed

Hi Lisa,
   I have a '68 Cutlass grille that is completely intact but some of the
vertical fins are warped and there is two small cracks on it. One of the
cracks is probably hidden by the front bumper when it's installed though.
I've pasted the links to some photos below:

http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/9044/68_01.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/9044/68_02.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/9044/68_03.JPG
http://www.geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/9044/68_04.JPG

If your neighbor is interested I'd like to get $20 plus shipping. Let me
know what he says. Thanks,
Gene

At 11:08 PM 5/24/99 -0700, you wrote:
>My same neighbor who has the D-88 is in need of a Cutlass grille for his 
>68.  All we've come across is 442 grilles.  Can anyone suggest 
>anything?  My last Fusick's catalog only lists a 442 grille (did I overlook 
>something)?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>
>
>"Lisa Madsen" <Lisa@hotglass.com>
>
>Lisa's Classic Oldsmobile - Home Page
>http://exo.com/~jht/olds/
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 18:24:59 -0500
From: "Walker" <pwalker@megavision.com>
Subject: posi problems

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I just installed a posi from a 66 Vista Cruiser in my 67 Cutlass. Every =
now and then, when backing up, I hear a bang or pop.
Is this normal? I dont recall the posi in my 76 ever doing this. I added =
the diff additive from my local GM dealer. Any ideas?
Is a constant whine coming from it also normal.

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	charset="iso-8859-1"
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</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>I just installed a posi from a 66 =
Vista Cruiser=20
in my 67 Cutlass. Every now and then, when backing up, I hear a bang or=20
pop.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Is </FONT><FONT color=3D#000000 =
size=3D2>this=20
normal? I dont recall the posi in my 76 ever doing this. I added the =
diff=20
additive from my local GM dealer. Any ideas?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Is a constant whine coming from it =
also=20
normal.</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

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Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 19:25:23 -0400 (EDT)
From: vfquick442@webtv.net (markas)
Subject: Re: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)

Igor, Soon after I got my engine in ,I returned to builder with high
running temps, at idle and increasing under load,He said yank that stock
fan and put in this flex fan. Painted blades black and installed it .Cut
temps down 30-35 degrees in all conditions.Worked like a dream,4+ years
ago.Plus, The Whir sound they make ,I really like. I`d bet they move
twice the air around.At idle, air blows all around engine compartment as
if somehow pressurized.Worked for me!

                                                   Markas
                                        Worked 455 in 70 
442                                                                            
       

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 16:20:06 -0700
From: tarzan@foxinternet.net
Subject: Re: posi problems

- --------------748742DF600E49383C5CEAB9
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

WALKER,
you may need to remove and flush out your rearend(the one in your car
silly)it wouldnt hurt to get a w-27 rearend cover casue it ands extra
fluid capacity.g.m makes a real good poi additive......it may have the
need to add two bottles to help lube up all the clutchs in the posi.DAN

Walker wrote:

>  I just installed a posi from a 66 Vista Cruiser in my 67 Cutlass.
> Every now and then, when backing up, I hear a bang or pop.Is this
> normal? I dont recall the posi in my 76 ever doing this. I added the
> diff additive from my local GM dealer. Any ideas?Is a constant whine
> coming from it also normal.

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<!doctype html public "-//w3c//dtd html 4.0 transitional//en">
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<body bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
WALKER,
<br>you may need to remove and flush out your rearend(the one in your car
silly)it wouldnt hurt to get a w-27 rearend cover casue it ands extra fluid
capacity.g.m makes a real good poi additive......it may have the need to
add two bottles to help lube up all the clutchs in the posi.DAN
<p>Walker wrote:
<blockquote TYPE=CITE>&nbsp;<font color="#000000"><font size=-1>I just
installed a posi from a 66 Vista Cruiser in my 67 Cutlass. Every now and
then, when backing up, I hear a bang or pop.</font></font><font 
color="#000000"><font size=-1>Is
this normal? I dont recall the posi in my 76 ever doing this. I added the
diff additive from my local GM dealer. Any ideas?</font></font><font 
color="#000000"><font size=-1>Is
a constant whine coming from it also normal.</font></font></blockquote>

</body>
</html>

- --------------748742DF600E49383C5CEAB9--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 19:43:23 EDT
From: Moparrp@aol.com
Subject: Re: Flex Fans (Do or Don't)

flex fans are great ,but here's another idea, how about trying electric?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 31 May 1999 18:48:33 -0500
From: "Walker" <pwalker@megavision.com>
Subject: W-27  Rear Cover

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Does any body know where I can get a w-27 cover for my ten bolt. It is =
out of a 66 Vista Cruiser.

John



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<HEAD>

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http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Does any body know where I can get a =
w-27 cover=20
for my ten bolt. It is out of a 66 Vista Cruiser.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>John</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1988
*********************************

