Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1908


oldsmobile-digest       Friday, April 16 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1908



Re: 42 Dragway!
Hot Wheels type car
Re: R-12 to R-134 conversion
Re: points to HEI, how?
Fuel Pump to Carb line
vin Y v.s. vin 9 PROM chips was:Re: Hurst Parts
Re: 66 Automatic Console Comparison
Re: points to HEI, how?
Re: Hot Wheels type car
Re: Alternator question
Re: question of value: 78 Cutlass
Re: vin Y v.s. vin 9 PROM chips was:Re: Hurst Parts
Re: Alternator question(answered)thanks!
Re: More Pictures!
Johnny Lightnings(Hot Wheel type cars)
Re: Fuel Pump to Carb line
Hei/Spark Plugs.
Re: Hei/Spark Plugs.
12VOLT Gauge Hook-Up
Stinking Exhaust
Re: 12VOLT Gauge Hook-Up
Dispute over subject...
Re: Dispute over subject...
Re: Flex Plate Question's????
Re: Fuel Pump to Carb line
Re: Dispute over subject...
Re: Fuel Pump to Carb line
Re: manifolds
Re: manifolds
Re: Fuel Pump to Carb line
Re: updating your olds anyone put 17's on 70-72 yet???
Re: anyone put a new style master cyl
Re: points to HEI, how?
Re: Dispute over subject...
Re: 12VOLT Gauge Hook-Up
Re: Dispute over subject...
Re: Stinking Exhaust
Where is Everybody???
Re: Fuel Pump to Carb line
Anybody selling a performer intake?
Re: Where is Everybody???
Re: Where is Everybody???
New Olds Mailing List Archive Now Available
Re: OPPS Here's the #'s 7044558
Re: Dispute over subject...
Re: question of value: 78 Cutlass
Re:m21 or m20
Re: m21 or m20
Re: manifolds
Desperately need Olds 3.42 or 3.91 gears
Re: manifolds
Vette Brakes wheel spacers..(was 17" wheels)
Re: updating your olds anyone put 17's on 70-72 yet???
my stuck door story (non Olds). Was: door still stuck 
Re:Chalky Plastic on back side of front seats.. what to do?
Hurst Hairy Chevelle
RE: Chalky Plastic on back side of front seats.. what to do?
Re: Chalky Plastic on back side of front seats.. what to do?
Re: anyone put a new style master cyl
Re: OPPS Here's the #'s 7044558
RE: 66 Automatic Console Comparison
RE: anyone put a new style master cyl
Re: points to HEI, how?

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 22:07:37 -0400
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: 42 Dragway!

Harry,
    I think I may have been better off with a taller tire (well maybe...) then 
I
could have just left it in first!
Todd
(hating his slush-o-matic Jetaway trans...)

Four42much@aol.com wrote:

> I had an all original 67 cutlass 330 2barrel , jetaway tran , dual exhaust,
> 2.78 gears with L60 15s ,which probably made the gearing 2.30 somethings and
> the car turned a 15.92...so yes your car should do alot better, I know you
> can do it..
> Hot Rod Harry <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/">HOT ROD HARRY'S
> OLDSMOBILES
> </A>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 20:59:18 -0500
From: C K <bloom9@juno.com>
Subject: Hot Wheels type car

Hello all, was in Toys R Us today and purchased a 1:64 scale car that's a
copy of the Hurst Hairy Oldsmobile. For those that don't know, this was
the one that is a '67 442 (I think) that had two engines. One under the
hood and one in the back seat\trunk.

The package it comes in has a picture of the car smoking the front tires.
It's painted gold with a black vinyl top.

On the bottom of the package it says: "Joe Schbeck's Hairy Olds".

On the back of package there's a website where you can possibly view the
car at: WWW.PLAYINGMANTIS.COM

Oh...as a bonus the car comes with a wheelie-stand!
Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass(daily driver)

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 21:20:17 -0500
From: C K <bloom9@juno.com>
Subject: Re: R-12 to R-134 conversion

>fred, would it be possible to use two original size condenser coils in a
row? 
    steven, w30442cs@aol.com

Steven, sorry it took me so long to reply, busy schedule ya know.  No for
several reason's.
1. Because of one being in front of the other there wouldn't be proper
air flow, notice I said "proper" and not "enough".
2. The reason the air flow wouldn't be proper is because the heat from
the front condenser would strongly effect the condensing of freon in the
back one.
3. Because of the improper air flow , which would cause radical pressure
increases and drops, you would be causing  premature compressor failure.

There is GOOD news however. While I was researching your question, which
made me wonder why I didn't think of it also, I found out that there's a
refrigerant out there that the supply houses for the contractors ( i.e.
your friendly car mechanic who works on your car A/C ) that costs about
$1.60 a pound and has almost the same qualities as R-12. As I get more
info I'll let ya know.

Fred Kemp
bloom9@juno.com
Tulsa, OK area
'67 442, Cutlass S and Cutlass(daily driver)

___________________________________________________________________
You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail.
Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html
or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866]

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 22:16:10 -0400
From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
Subject: Re: points to HEI, how?

> Jason, as far as I know all Olds HEI dist. are virtually the same.  Just
make
> saure that the one you are gonna put in is not worn out and that it does
work
> good.  Also, you might check on spark plugs, the HEI system may use a
hotter
> one.  Also check on plug wires, I think the HEI would use like maybe 8.8mm
> wires!!   John     Oldsfire@aol.com

The Olds FAQ explains this conversion in detail. Mike and John are right.
You need a non resistor wire connected to an ignition 12v source. The HEI
needs to come from a 74 to 79 Olds. The resistance plug wires are necessary.
Just ask for plugs and wire to fit the year of vehicle your HEI is from.
you also need an internally regulated alternator or a electronic external
regulator. I converted to the internally regulated alternator. Its a change
you won't regret. The plugs I'm using are AC Delco R46ZX gapped at .06. They
work fine in my 69 350.
Check the FAQ. It's got good info on this.
==============================================
Mick Gillespie, Melbourne, FL
69 Cutlass Conv.
80 Toronado Brougham
mgillespie@sprynet.com
http://home.sprynet.com/~mgillespie/oldspage.htm
==============================================

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 21:27:39 -0500 (CDT)
From: drolds350@webtv.net (Jim McKeague)
Subject: Fuel Pump to Carb line

I am having a hard time getting the fuel line from the pump to the carb
to keep from leaking! Any tricks on this? It's the metal line that comes
pre-bent, ready to go, but mine doesn't want to seem to fit on without
shooting gas out. Any h*lp would be appreciated!Is there a sealer you
put on with this? 
Thanks!

Jim McKeague
'70 Rallye 350
'70 Cutlass S W-31
http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html
Temporary E-Mail address: drolds350@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 19:29:36 -0700
From: "Andrew Conkey" <andrewc@novell.uidaho.edu>
Subject: vin Y v.s. vin 9 PROM chips was:Re: Hurst Parts

I have always wondered if there was a difference between the 'Y' 
and the '9' PROMs. Anybody know? My guess is none....

thanks

Andrew
'84 Delta 88 - vin 'Y'

- --------------------------

Date sent:      	Wed, 14 Apr 1999 15:14:53 -0400
From:           	Miguel Morales <Mike.Morales@wcom.com>
Organization:   	MCIWorldcom
To:             	"oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca" <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject:        	Re: Hurst Parts
Send reply to:  	oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca

> After posting an item on ebay, I plan to post more. But before I do other 
parts
> I'm sure I still have are:
> 
<snip>

>  9. New factory '84 307CID Vin '9' Hurst/Olds PROM Chip
> 
> Thanks for the interest.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 22:16:40 -0400
From: "W-MACHINES" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: Re: 66 Automatic Console Comparison

Interesting info.  The console in my (factory) 4-speed Jetstar 1 *looks*
like the 442 type, but I never measured or closely compared it.

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com   
Centennial Feature at http://www.en.com/users/wmachine/wm.html
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 - Sold ;(
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 66 Automatic Console Comparison
> Date: Thursday, April 15, 1999 12:31 PM
> 
> I did a little research last night in my Chassis Service Manual and my
1967
> Part & Accessories catalog. 
> 
> I learned that the consoles for the Starfire/88/98 (not that there ever
was
> a console 98...) are different from those
> used in the Cutlass/442. This may seem obvious, but I just wanted to put
it
> out there as conclusive. The preceding is clear for 65-66, but they may
be
> different going back further as well.
> 
> If anybody wants jpegs comparing the two for further evidence or for fun,
> please email me privately. I'll retain the jpegs for a few days from
today.
> 
> cf

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 22:45:05 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: points to HEI, how?

The FAQ has good detail on HEI conversions.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 22:51:26 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hot Wheels type car

they have been out for some time now I have a couple and its part of a whole 
series called "Show Stoppers" by Johnny Lightning(Playing Mantis)
  Original Johnny Lightnings were made by Topper in the late sixties and 
early seventies.Then they went bankrupt and a very smart man started playing 
mantis and bought the rights to remake some of the older designed Johnny 
lightnings and the rest is history....the plastic wheel stand is pretty funny 
since the 66/67 442 had 2 engines .One for the front wheels and one for the 
back...there is no way she could ever do a wheelie....smokin the skins is 
what she was designed for...
Hot Rod Harry  <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/">HOT ROD HARRY'S 
OLDSMOBILES
</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 22:52:21 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Alternator question

>On my 83 Hurst Olds...where the connection goes in the alternator with the
>red wire and the brown wire....the alternator has a #1 with and R next to
it
>and a #2...what wire goes to what connection on the alternator?
>Hot Rod Harry


Schematic (my 85) shows pin 1 as the brown wire (to charge light), pin 2 is
the red one (to bat / alt power). Sure would make more sense if the 'R' was
for red, wouldn't it?

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 22:57:02 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: question of value: 78 Cutlass

>
>78 Cutlass, white. black interior. v6.  70k miles, like new. interior is
>near perfect. rust free.  paint is original with original pin stripe. 
>A/C.  the head gasket let go, so valve seals were replaced while the head
>was off.  100% original except battery.  original spare is unused.
>


$800.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 23:00:18 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: vin Y v.s. vin 9 PROM chips was:Re: Hurst Parts

Jason Adcock will be better at ansering this than me....so here is my reply 
for what its worth........Yes there is ...the timing and fuel is set up 
different and all the 9 cars have overdrive trans and the y's do not all have 
over drives....40 more horspower tends to need more fuel to idle correct do 
to the more aggressive cam in the 9 cars and the dual outlet exhaust is 
better,not great, but better than the single so that chnges things too...my 
dad tried to put the hypertech chip that was made for the 9 car in his y 
car(1985 cutlass supreme 3speed auto) and the car through fits, so then he 
ordered the one for the delta of that rear and it ran fine but not much 
different than the stock...
Hot Rod Harry....

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 23:15:34 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: Alternator question(answered)thanks!

In a message dated 4/15/99 10:57:26 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
david.cullen@snet.net writes:

<< Schematic (my 85) shows pin 1 as the brown wire (to charge light), pin 2 is
 the red one (to bat / alt power). Sure would make more sense if the 'R' was
 for red, wouldn't it? >>
Thanks for the answer.....that was right on the money.....I found out the "R" 
is for diesel engines with a tach and thats where one of the tach leads would 
go in another hole near the "R".....thanks again...I have determined my 83 
Hurst Olds need an alternator...oh well...Hot Rod Harry.....
 <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/">HOT ROD HARRY'S OLDSMOBILES</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 23:20:07 -0000
From: "Mike T Ereon" <FREEMIKE@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: More Pictures!

- -----Original Message-----
From: Jason K. Adcock <jadcock@vt.edu>
To: G-body List <gbody@listbot.com>; Classic Olds List
<oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>; Olds G-body List <olds_gbody@listbot.com>
Date: Thursday, April 15, 1999 6:59 PM
Subject: More Pictures!


>The G-Body Organization Mailing List - http://www.g-body.org
>
>Hey everyone.  I've got lots more pictures developed.  If you want to see
>the new ones, or if you haven't seen ~any~ of them yet, head on over to:
>http://members.xoom.com/jadcock/cutlass/pictures/pictures.html and have a
>look.
>
>For a direct link to a really bad picture of me with the car, take a look
>at: http://members.xoom.com/jadcock/cutlass/pictures/me&g.jpg and try to
>hold back your grins.  d:-)
>
>Don't e-mail me and tell me I have too much time.  I assure you...I do.
<g>
>
>Jason K. Adcock
>mailto:jadcock@vt.edu
>http://members.xoom.com/jadcock
>

Excellent pictures!  Do you have the HO 307?  What mods have you done?

GrandPrixMike

>
>______________________________________________________________________
>To unsubscribe, write to gbody-unsubscribe@listbot.com
>Start Your Own FREE Email List at http://www.listbot.com/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 23:35:15 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Johnny Lightnings(Hot Wheel type cars)

The link for this company is www.playingmantis.com
Hot Rod Harry
 <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/">HOT ROD HARRY'S OLDSMOBILES</A> 
http://members.aol.com/magsurv/

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 23:51:05 EDT
From: QWKCUTLASS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump to Carb line

Hey Jim, i ususally used teflon tape on my fittings and i haven't had any 
problems.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 22:57:12 -0500 (CDT)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Dr. Olds - K. Wood)
Subject: Hei/Spark Plugs.

I was reading through the last digest, and started thinking about spark
plugs. I've had
Hei on my 455 for a lot of years now and always used better grade plugs
that were listed
for my '72 Cutlass without a problem.  Should
I be using plugs that were from an HEI system or does it not really make
any difference.  Running an Accel HEI super coil....  If anybody
has used both types- can you tell me of any
performance gains?  Just curious.

Kevin 
Dr-Olds@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 00:00:58 EDT
From: QWKCUTLASS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Hei/Spark Plugs.

Kevin, i don't think it makes a difference till you change the heat range and 
gap of the plug.  I run NGK, but i also have an MSD ignition.
Sam

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 23:06:21 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: 12VOLT Gauge Hook-Up

On my 72 442 I'm hooking up an Auto Meter Volt gauge. I was wondering if it
is OK to run the positive wire for the volt gauge directly to the resistor
on the firewall? It states that the positive should be connected to a 12V
ignition source, in which the resistor current is before it gets resisted.
Is this OK?


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 23:04:04 -0500 (CDT)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Dr. Olds - K. Wood)
Subject: Stinking Exhaust

Just thought of another question.  The exhaust
that my car puts out smells so bad it gives me
a headache.  Sticks in the clothes and everything--- the wife sure
appreciates that...
I used to think it was running to rich, but I have
experimented with various jet sizing and air/fuel
mixtures and have found no improvement.
I first started really noticing it a few years ago
when our whole area (SE Wisconsin) changed
over to reformulated gas.  I have also noticed 
that lately almost every time I drive (in my new
car) behind older vehicles I am smelling a similar stench.  I wonder
does anybody know
what's up with that?  Is there a fuel additive
that has been found to be "reformulated gas
friendly"?  Hate the smell.  Also wondering
what kind of performance I am giving up with
this crap-gas.

I would appreciate it greatly if this subject is 
not left to die without some discussion... I know
a couple of people in my area have to be dealing with the same thing.

Kevin D. Wood
Hartford, WI  53027
'72 Cutlass Supreme 455 TH400
OCA #31302

Dr-Olds@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 00:06:10 EDT
From: QWKCUTLASS@aol.com
Subject: Re: 12VOLT Gauge Hook-Up

i don't know about hooking it up before the resistor, but make sure its not a 
continous power, or your volt meter won't shut off with the key.

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 23:18:25 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Dispute over subject...

Here is a electric tech question I was disputing someone over.....I hope I
was right!! Just read slowly and you won't get lost...

You have 3 electronic Auto Meter gauges: 

    1st  WATER TEMP              2nd  OIL PRESSURE                 3rd
TRANS TEMP

                                                                           
                              
The negative wire for the trans temp ground is connected to the negative
post of the water temp gauge. (Which is essence is not grounded at all). 
Next the water temp negative wire for the light is connected to the
negative post on the water temp gauge. (No ground as of yet). Lastly a wire
is run from the negative post of the water temp gauge to the metal portion
of the dash.

My dispute is the following: This causes a bad ground because the trans
temp gauge is trying to ground out through the water temp gauge. The water
temp negative light wire is also trying to ground 
out through its own ground. Which in essence would cause the water temp
gauge to read erratically.

The other sides dispute: He stated that the water temp gauge is grounded
because there is a wire from the neg side of the terminal to the dash. 

I believe that the ground is bad because to close the circuit and have
proper reading you must hva e direct ground for each instead of jumping
grounds from one gauge to another. 


Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 00:31:49 -0400
From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Dispute over subject...

I have to agree with your friend. It's the same as grounging one wire to the
dash and pigtailing 3 wires off it to each negative post. Your way or his,
they will both work.

Randy

> Here is a electric tech question I was disputing someone over.....I hope I
> was right!! Just read slowly and you won't get lost...
>
> You have 3 electronic Auto Meter gauges:
>
>     1st  WATER TEMP              2nd  OIL PRESSURE                 3rd
> TRANS TEMP
>
>
>
> The negative wire for the trans temp ground is connected to the negative
> post of the water temp gauge. (Which is essence is not grounded at all).
> Next the water temp negative wire for the light is connected to the
> negative post on the water temp gauge. (No ground as of yet). Lastly a
wire
> is run from the negative post of the water temp gauge to the metal portion
> of the dash.
>
> My dispute is the following: This causes a bad ground because the trans
> temp gauge is trying to ground out through the water temp gauge. The water
> temp negative light wire is also trying to ground
> out through its own ground. Which in essence would cause the water temp
> gauge to read erratically.
>
> The other sides dispute: He stated that the water temp gauge is grounded
> because there is a wire from the neg side of the terminal to the dash.
>
> I believe that the ground is bad because to close the circuit and have
> proper reading you must hva e direct ground for each instead of jumping
> grounds from one gauge to another.
>
>
> Pettrix@prodigy.net
>

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 21:47:46 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Flex Plate Question's????

Sxolds455@aol.com wrote:
> 
> First off Let me say Hello to all list member's, the question I have is as
> follows: Has any one run a racing flex plate on the street, and if so have
> you encountered any problems with it, such as bearing failure or vibration's,
> Just curios, I bought one and was wondering if there is any potential
> problems I should be aware of!! Hoping to my 70 SX on the road this summer
> for cruising and racing!!!!
> 
> Michael (1970 Cutlass Supreme SX)



Michael,

The only racing (SFI certified) flexplates that I'm 
aware of for an Olds V8, are a "solid" construction.
This type of flexplate is not recommended for street 
applications.  As a flexplate needs to do just what the 
name implies.  Flex.  The flexplate acts as somewhat of
a cushion between the torque converter and crankshaft.  
Since the oil pressure of the transmission is trying
to force the torque converter forward, this flex cushions
the natural back and forth movement of the crankshaft on 
acceleration/deceleration.  Without any give in the 
flexplate, the life of the thrust bearing and crank
thrust bearing surface will be reduced.  


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Web Site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 22:40:42 -0700
From: Greg Rollin <supercars@transport.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump to Carb line

Jim McKeague wrote:
> 
> I am having a hard time getting the fuel line from the pump to the carb
> to keep from leaking! Any tricks on this? It's the metal line that comes
> pre-bent, ready to go, but mine doesn't want to seem to fit on without
> shooting gas out. Any h*lp would be appreciated!Is there a sealer you
> put on with this?
> Thanks!




Jim,

Both ends of the original fuel line are double flare 
fittings.  A flared fitting is designed to make its seal 
by the flare of the line against a seat.  Sealers are not 
required nor recommended.  Check the end of the line for a 
smooth double flare.  Any imperfections in the flare will 
not allow a complete seal of the flare against its seat, 
which will result in a leak.  Take a rat tail file to any 
high spots on the flare.  Additionally even a small piece of 
dirt (or sealer) on the flare or seat can result in a leak.     


Greg Rollin
Supercars Unlimited (Where Cutlass/4-4-2 is ALL we do!) 
Portland, Oregon  503-244-8249

Web Site:
http://www.supercarsunlimited.com

E-mail: supercars@transport.com
- -----------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 07:16:28 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Re: Dispute over subject...

ground is ground - both ways will work


The General

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 08:32:12 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump to Carb line

I am having a hard time getting the fuel line from the pump to the carb
to keep from leaking! Any tricks on this?
________

Jim,

Greg Rollin is correct, flare fittings do not require (nor desire) any sealers 
-
they are designed for metal-to-metal contact on the male and female flare
surfaces.  The threads should not be sealing surfaces at all (note that this is
unlike pipe threads, where the thread is tapered because it _is_ a sealing
surface).  While I don't do it myself, some on the list have suggested using
teflon tape on flare nuts just to lubricate the threads.

What I have found over the years is that flare nuts are extremely difficult to
get started correctly.  Usually they are not readily accessible, and once you
get the first thread started, you need to use a wrench to turn them.  Needless
to say, it is often easy to cross-thread one of these.  Definitely check for
burrs, dirt, or out of roundness, as Greg suggests, but failing that also
carefully inspect the threads for evidence of cross-threading.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 08:52:54 EDT
From: Harrell17@aol.com
Subject: Re: manifolds

I am trying to put a 455 in a 72 Cutlass Conv. that I took a 350 out of. The 
manifolsd that were on the 350 and the 455 look alike. But he exhaust now 
will not come close to bolting up and the sit wider and closer to the frame. 
If you have done a swap like this did you use the same frame pads? those are 
the perchs on the frame that the motor mounts sit on. If you hear of a better 
style of manifold for this let me know. Thanks, Jim

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 09:02:30 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: manifolds

...The manifolsd that were on the 350 and the 455 look alike...
______

Looks can be deceiving.  The big and small block manifolds are different due to
the different deck heights of the block. Even though they will physically bolt
to the heads, you can't use the 350 manifolds on the 455 or vice versa.  You'll
need to get the correct ones.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 14 Apr 1999 07:13:01 -0600
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump to Carb line

In addition, the line should be square to the place where it is
connecting.  You may have to "fine-tune" the bends by hand to make sure
it goes straight into the receiver before you tighten it.  The
connectors should not be required to align it.  Pre-bent lines are often
out by just enough that they don't seal well.

IHME (In My Humble Experience),
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442/400/th400/3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 09:49:15 -0700
From: joe lewis <lewis@amada.net>
Subject: Re: updating your olds anyone put 17's on 70-72 yet???

Hey thanks for the info. What type of offset did you use. Could you go with a
bigger rear tire? How wide are the rims. Would you have a picture? Im currently
running 275/60/15's in the rear and they really fill the wheel wel nice.
Thankyou joe

QWKCUTLASS@aol.com wrote:

> i had 255 40 in front and 275 40 in back if i remember corectly, its been a
> while since i had them.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 09:54:20 -0700
From: joe lewis <lewis@amada.net>
Subject: Re: anyone put a new style master cyl

Did you notice any pedal change? Do you know what size bore the new one was? My
understanding is if you go with a smaller bore your pedal throw will be more 
but
it will reduce pedal effort. I was looking at the master cylinder on my 90 S10
Blazer it is new style but it looks real big. What made you decide to use the 
80
cutlass unit? Sorry so many questions. thanks again in advance. joe

WMACHINES@aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 99-04-15 13:44:41 EDT, you write:
>
> << has anyone put a new style master cylinder on there 70's cutlass. Im
> looking
>  > to put the plastic and aluminum style with a 1'' bore on my 72 cutlass.
>  > Curious to know what year car you got it from. >>
> I put one on my 71 Supreme before it was stolen.  It was a power brake master
> cylinder from a 78-80 Cutlass Supreme.  No problems at all.
>
> regards
> W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
> 72 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 08:14:09 -0600
From: cdemps@lsumc.edu (Dempsey, Charles)
Subject: Re: points to HEI, how?

"Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com> wrote:

> Don't remember the years off the top of my head, but any 
> pre computer HEI will work.

I never can remember either, but a quick ID is to look for the vacuum
advance pot. If the distributor's got one it's a candidate. If not keep
looking.

> You'll need to change the plugs and wires at the same
> time and open up your plug gap to .060 to take advantage 
> of the HEI.

My '76 shop manual says to gap the 350 at 0.080 (!) and the 455 at
0.060. All I know is that 0.080 works a lot better on my '76 CS 350 than
0.040 which is what the previous owner's "mechanic" set them at.

I picked up an complete HEI distributor and wires last weekend out of a
'78 350 Cutlass 4d. Looks pretty good. I hope to slip it in the '71 VC
this weekend.

Charles

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 09:20:43 -0700
From: Andy Lawrence <lawrencj@coral.indstate.edu>
Subject: Re: Dispute over subject...

>
>
> My dispute is the following: This causes a bad ground because the trans
> temp gauge is trying to ground out through the water temp gauge. The water
> temp negative light wire is also trying to ground
> out through its own ground. Which in essence would cause the water temp
> gauge to read erratically.
>

This going from ground of each gauge and then to the fire wall is FINE!!!!
That is the way that i run most wires when multiples of "something" need
wired.......

BigBlock
Electrical Engineer

79' Supreme 410c.i.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 08:15:28 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 12VOLT Gauge Hook-Up

> On my 72 442 I'm hooking up an Auto Meter Volt gauge. I was
> wondering  if it is OK to run the positive wire for the volt
> gauge directly to the resistor on the firewall? It states
> that the positive should be connected to a 12V ignition
> source, in which the resistor current is before it gets
> resisted. Is this OK?

No, what it's trying to say is that the meter should be connected to a 
circuit controlled by the ignition switch; that is to say, any circuit 
which goes dead when you remove the key. You don't need to go through 
the firewall at all for this gauge. Check your fusebox and I think 
you'll find some accessory ports labeled "BAT", "ACC" and "IGN" (or 
similar). BAT is hot at all times; ACC is hot in the non-off positions 
(e.g. whenever the radio works) and IGN is hot only in Engine Run 
position. Take your pick.

You can also tap into a dash wire; look for a pink one, which should 
be hot when the engine is running. Avoid the gray because that's dash 
backlighting, which goes through a rheostat (dimmer) and will give you 
a false reading.

- -- Andy

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 08:17:01 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Dispute over subject...

> I believe that the ground is bad because to close the circuit
> and have proper reading you must have direct ground for each
> instead of jumping grounds from one gauge to another. 

No, what you've described is a Common Ground. Tying three ground 
connections together like that is just fine, and if you were to trace 
the circuits of the factory gauges, you'd find that the factory does 
this as well. Look in your trunk and you'll see a large black wire 
screwed to the floor pan in the left rear corner; that's the common 
ground for all your taillamps. And so on...

The only downside to this is of course that if the ground wire is 
broken, all three gauges go dead at once, but as long as the wiring is 
protected from harm this setup is fine.

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 08:27:30 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Stinking Exhaust

> I first started really noticing it a few years ago
> when our whole area (SE Wisconsin) changed
> over to reformulated gas. 
[...]
> I would appreciate it greatly if this subject is 
> not left to die without some discussion... I know
> a couple of people in my area have to be dealing
> with the same thing.

It's MTBE, or Methyl Tertiary Butyl Ether. For an FAQ from people who 
don't like it, check out http://www.oxybusters.com/mtbe_lay.htm. For 
an FAQ from people who think it's the greatest thing since sliced 
bread, check out http://www.cleanfuels.net/.

Try changing brands of gas. I hear that some cars deal better with one 
brand than another, although others say that most gas comes from the 
same suppliers no matter what. I think you have nothing to lose by 
switching brands and see if it gets any better or worse. (I'd switch 
between major brands only, and skip the non-name discount outlets that 
may have a different supplier each week.)

- -- Andy

_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 10:45:08 -0500
From: Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com
Subject: Where is Everybody???

My traffic has dropped over 50% in the last few days.......is it me or
is everyone doing something else???

Where is everybody???

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 10:44:10 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Fuel Pump to Carb line

Jim:

I assume you mean that it leaks at the connections? Well, stupid question, 
but did you try teflon tape on the threads?

Regards, George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

On Thu, 15 Apr 1999, Jim McKeague wrote:

> I am having a hard time getting the fuel line from the pump to the carb
> to keep from leaking! Any tricks on this? It's the metal line that comes
> pre-bent, ready to go, but mine doesn't want to seem to fit on without
> shooting gas out. Any h*lp would be appreciated!Is there a sealer you
> put on with this? 
> Thanks!
> 
> Jim McKeague
> '70 Rallye 350
> '70 Cutlass S W-31
> http://members.aol.com/DROLDS350/W45.html
> Temporary E-Mail address: drolds350@webtv.net
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 10:47:45 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Anybody selling a performer intake?

Hi Listers, 

slowly but surely I get aggervatet by the holley street dominator plus 
edelbrock carb combo I try to get connected to the stock setup throttle 
and air cleaner. Sometimes one should not just use what is free...

I think I would be better of with an edelbrock performer manifold. Anyone 
offers one for sale or trade for the holley street dominator? The street 
dominator is a cool looking single plane manifold, better for racing then 
daily driving anyway.

Regards, George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
http://estimator.camd.lsu.edu/georg/sparetime/olds.html
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 11:57:12 EDT
From: LOUS69W30@aol.com
Subject: Re: Where is Everybody???

In a message dated 04/16/1999 11:44:13 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com writes:

<< My traffic has dropped over 50% in the last few days.......is it me or
 is everyone doing something else???
 
 Where is everybody??? >>
I noticed the same thing.  I thought it was even a little lighter last 
weekend than in the past.  Maybe  with the nicer weather in most areas people 
are out more driving their wonderful Oldsmobiles.

Lou Principe
69 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 12:11:41 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Where is Everybody???

LOUS69W30@aol.com wrote:
> 
> In a message dated 04/16/1999 11:44:13 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com writes:
> 
> << My traffic has dropped over 50% in the last few days.......is it me or
>  is everyone doing something else???
> 
>  Where is everybody??? >>
> I noticed the same thing.  I thought it was even a little lighter last
> weekend than in the past.  Maybe  with the nicer weather in most areas people
> are out more driving their wonderful Oldsmobiles.

Highly possible those in the US were working (or crying over) their tax
returns.  I know that it sure cut my internet time down a lot, but then
I was working on other peoples and not my own.  Good side is that I have
a little money together so I can buy a few parts for the convertibles
now.  Bad news is I can't buy all of the parts yet until I sell some of
my other vehicles.  Looks like it's time to do a few minor repairs and
put themup for sale.  Anyhow, I'm out of the working 16 hours or so a
day mode and ready to resume a regular life, whatever that may be. 
Think I'll take the 70 Supreme conv to the body shop next week and get
an estimate on the body work and get on with it.  THAT would make tax
season worthwhile, I  think.  Not to mention a VERY nice summer when it
gets back home.  BTW, if any one sent email to me in the last couple
weeks and I didn't answer it, please resend.  My quick look at the
traffic may have let me miss it.  I wasn't really too awake at the time
anyway, most probably.

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 11:32:54 -0500
From: "Easton,Jeffrey" <jeff.easton@abbott.com>
Subject: New Olds Mailing List Archive Now Available

The Archive for the Olds Mailing List, Digests #1800 thru #1899 is now
available on my web site.  http://www.calcon.net/~easton


- -Jeff
Jeff Easton
Grayslake, ILL
1970  442  4-Speed
see the Olds archives at http://www.calcon.net/~easton

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 12:34:56 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: OPPS Here's the #'s 7044558

In a message dated 99-04-15 14:10:38 EDT, you write:

<< Sorry about forgeting the no's.:   7044558  >>

Well, Creature.

Karl not got codes for 1974, but based on some 1976 code trends, that should 
be off a 1974 California-only Oldsmobile.

For that last 8, Karl must go fish.
Possible 8 was a "late" (vs. early) carb.
Willing to guess at displacement based on jet size, but otherwise, dunno.

Good Luck!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 10:43:17 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: Dispute over subject...

"Andrew C. Green" wrote:
> 
> <snip>
> 
> The only downside to this is of course that if the ground wire is
> broken, all three gauges go dead at once, but as long as the wiring is
> protected from harm this setup is fine.

Think of it as a feature.  If the ground goes then all three quit working and
you know that it is the ground versus separately wired one goes and you replace
gauge.

That's never happened to me, nope, nope ;')
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto://csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 11:45:43 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: question of value: 78 Cutlass

On Thu, 15 Apr 1999, Dave Cullen wrote:

> >
> >78 Cutlass, white. black interior. v6.  70k miles, like new. interior is
> >near perfect. rust free.  paint is original with original pin stripe. 
> >A/C.  the head gasket let go, so valve seals were replaced while the head
> >was off.  100% original except battery.  original spare is unused.
> >
> 
> 
> $800.
> 
> drc

c'mon, that is worth more! I would pay 2500 on the spot if it really is 
as described. That head problem is solved, right? 70k that is nothing. I 
paid 2.7k for a similar non olds car of the same year! Maybe it depends 
on the location but here in Louisiana you could sell the car for 2k for 
sure! 

George

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 10:20:34 -0700
From: "Reed, Stephen" <sreed@chatsworth.com>
Subject: Re:m21 or m20

>Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 07:34:24 -0400
>From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
>Subject: m21 or m20

>This one is for the shifty people on the list..........


>            Can one tell the difference between Muncie
>4 speeds w/o pulling the cover and counting teeth ?????


>Tanks
>The General    :o{)}      =20

>P.S.       please think of our uniformed personnel
>in your prayers ...............

General!,
	I can help on differentiating an M21 from an M22, dunno if this will
help you but.......Without pulling the side cover off the transmission, you
can tell an M21 from an M22 by the Input shaft & output shafts.  The M21
will be a 13 spline shaft and the M22 will be somewhere around a 28 spline.
I'm positive on that, and I recall the output shaft being
different/requiring a different yoke.

Steve Reed
Austin, TX

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 12:41:38 -0500
From: Paul Brillhart <pbrill1@uic.edu>
Subject: Re: m21 or m20

Reed, Stephen wrote:
> 
> >Date: Thu, 15 Apr 1999 07:34:24 -0400
> >From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
> >Subject: m21 or m20
> 
> >This one is for the shifty people on the list..........
> 
> >            Can one tell the difference between Muncie
> >4 speeds w/o pulling the cover and counting teeth ?????
> 
> >Tanks
> >The General    :o{)}      =20
> 
> >P.S.       please think of our uniformed personnel
> >in your prayers ...............
> 
> General!,
>         I can help on differentiating an M21 from an M22, dunno if this will
> help you but.......Without pulling the side cover off the transmission, you
> can tell an M21 from an M22 by the Input shaft & output shafts.  The M21
> will be a 13 spline shaft and the M22 will be somewhere around a 28 spline.
> I'm positive on that, and I recall the output shaft being
> different/requiring a different yoke.
> 
> Steve Reed
> Austin, TX


  Steve,

  Thanks for mentioning that. I'd forgoten al about the spline counts
being different on the 21 and 22's.

Like the 21 the 20 has a 13 spline count.  If you get a M22 to replace
either the M20 or M21, you'll need a new clutch disk(fits on the shaft)
and probably(as they tend to wear into each other) a new pressure plate.

Paul Brillhart

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 10:49:32 -0700
From: BC <beastmaster@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: manifolds

Jon,
I have a set of manifolds somewhere in the garage which came off my 1975 Delta 
88's 455ci. I don't know where your at but if they will work for you I can 
take a look for them.
Regards,
Bruce
70 Delta 88 Conv, 350 2-barrell
75 Delta 88 Royale Conv., 455 4-barrell

JON MORGAN wrote:

> I could certainly use some help. Im in desperate need of a set of exhaust 
manifolds for my 72 olds cutlass supreme, which has a 455. I would greatly 
appreciate any help or advice that you might have. Thank you, Jon.
>
> Free web-based email, anytime, anywhere!
> ZDNet Mail - http://www.zdnetmail.com

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 13:59:16 EDT
From: Zeilmanns@aol.com
Subject: Desperately need Olds 3.42 or 3.91 gears

Dear fellow Oldsmobilers,

I have my '69 4-4-2 in the shop and am trying to make a NOS 4 series posi
unit work with my original 3.23 gears and it is a no-go situation.  I am
desperately seeking an original set of Olds 3.42 or 3.91 gears to replace
the 3.23s that are currently in there.  HELP!  I am told that aftermarket
gears will not work with the OLDS Posi, and truly want to keep it.  We have
contacted Richmond Gear and they can't help us, so I am once again turning
to you folks for assistance.  If you have a spare set of Olds 3.42 or 3.91
gears, or even know where I might find some, please E-mail me directly at
zeilmanns@aol.com.

Any help you can give would be totally appreciated.

Thanks,

Jeff Zeilmann
'69 4-4-2, '69 Cutlass Convertible

314-939-4613

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 14:12:49 EDT
From: Harrell17@aol.com
Subject: Re: manifolds

Tha manifolds that are on the 455 now came with the engine but it came out of 
a 72 ninety eight. Will these work or do I need diferent?  Do you know what 
all the Codes are for the manifolds, [ F,G.X,Z, etc.]  Maybe If I need 
different ones that may help me track them down. Do you think I would 
probably be better off putting on headers? Jim

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 11:30 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Vette Brakes wheel spacers..(was 17" wheels)

>Joe Lewis wrote:
><snip>
>I have the 87 corvette rims on my 74 w/ 255/60/16 in the rear. I used 
>the bolt on spacers from vette brakes.
___________________________

Joe, could you tell me how to contact Vette Brakes?  I remember 
reading something about these wheel spacers but I couldn't find the 
article when I looked for it.

How wide are the Corvette rims? How do you like the ride and handling 
with them?  I have 16x8 rims all round on my '72 Supreme, with 
225/60/16 tires on them, and am pretty happy with the result, but the 
wider front tires only worsen the effect of the lousy front suspension 
geometry (camber change) as wider lower-profile tires really need to 
be kept upright for the entire treadwidth to grip the road. Time to 
start saving for Global West A-arms...

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 11:20 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: updating your olds anyone put 17's on 70-72 yet???

>QWKCUTLASS@aol.com wrote:
>
>I have a 74 cutlass and i had 17" budnicks on it, 8s in front 9s in 
>back. the wheelbase on our cars should be similiar, so i think 8 is 
>about the biggest you can go in the front without rubbing, with a 4" 
>backspace.  you can fit up to a 10" on the rear, with a 4.5" to 5" 
>backspace.

- ------------------------------

The wheelbase (distance from centre of front wheel to centre of rear 
wheel) has nothing to do with tire fitment - did you mean wheelwell 
size?  After recently putting 16x8 wheels on my '72 Supreme I can tell 
you that 5" backspacing is definitely too much on a '72. On my car I'm 
using 4 1/4" backspacing on the rear wheels, and that puts the tire 
sidewall within less than an inch of the wheelwell on the inner side 
of the tire, so adding 3/4" inch more backspacing would either net you 
rubbing tires or a clearance so tight that the tires would rub in the 
turns and when they "grew" from heating, etc. On the other hand there 
is plenty of room on the outside of the tires for larger tires than 
I'm using (225/60/16 Falken's). 

   I'd say that no more than 4 1/4" backspacing should be used on the 
rear wheels on a '72 Supreme. The stock factory wheels were 3 7/8" 
backspacing, by the way. My Supreme is a 2-door hardtop, same rear 
quarters as a convertible.  I don't know if there is any difference in 
wheelwell size for the 2-door coupes (Cutlass S, etc).


- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 11:40 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: my stuck door story (non Olds). Was: door still stuck 

Rock Man wrote:
<snip>

..."IF" you still can't get the door open after everything the list 
has suggested, just weld the door shut and go in and out through the 
window like the Dukes always did. :-) You could even putty up the door
handle and the lock holes. :-)
_______________________________

When I bought my '73 RoadRunner back in 1992, the previous owner had 
swapped the passenger-side door out for a junkyard replacement. 
Apparently he had also negleted to get the key for the new lock, and 
was too stupid to put the old lock in the new door, so he solved the 
problem to his satisfaction by removing the lock pull-rod from inside 
the door, pusing everything to the "locked" position, and then 
slamming the door shut once and for all.

When I got the car I had to unbolt the front passenger side seat and 
drag it over the drivers seat and out of the car just to get clearance 
to get the inner door panel off, and then I found out that the 
pull-rod was missing. Eventually after much junkyard hunting, many 
small cuts and bruises, and lots of wasted time I finally got 
everything back the way it should be. That's also how I learned to 
re-key a lock to a different key, but that's a whole other story.

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 11:54 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re:Chalky Plastic on back side of front seats.. what to do?

BOYD DONALD R wrote:

>1976 Cutlass with bucket seats.  The plastic shell on the back of the 
>front seats (where the rear seat passengers would hit their knees) is 
>chalky and kind of disintegrating.  Just scrapes off with your 
>fingernails. 
>
>Seems like there out to be some kind of coating I could put on the 
>backs to restore them - (I'm sure new ones would be like hen's teeth 
>to find.) Something like paint, only thicker and stronger.
>
>Any ideas?
____________________________

Over on the Mopar mailing list someone posted their solution, which 
was to lightly bead-blast (!) the plastic seat-backs and thus remove 
the flaky surface layers, after which he used the usual Vinyl paint 
(SEM, Plastikote, Eastwood, etc) to restore the surface appearance. He 
claimed to have good results with this method, he said that the 
original surface texture of the panel even survived the bead-blasting.
Disclaimer, I haven't tried this and have no personal experience of 
it. If I tried it I would probably go with media-blasting rather than 
bead-blasting as it's a gentler process. I think baking-soda blasting 
is the gentlest, but walnut-shell blasting is also probably gentler 
than bead-blasting.

Odd fact, early 70's Mopars with white interiors are notorious for 
this problem (disintegrating plastic). For some reason interiors of 
other colours stand up to ageing much better. Wonder why.


- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 15:25:44 -0400
From: rmoriarty@blairinc.com
Subject: Hurst Hairy Chevelle

Ladies and Gentlemen,
I know there may be some heat for posting ebay info to the list, but you
all have _GOT_  to see this.
The subject on this post says it all! This is beautiful revenge for every
Olds that ended up with a chevy block!

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?MfcISAPICommand=ViewItem&item=9167
2613


Please send any complaints about this post directly to me!

Ray

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 14:43:00 -0500
From: Mickey.Womack@ULTRAK.com
Subject: RE: Chalky Plastic on back side of front seats.. what to do?

When trying to make white plastic (even now....not to mention, 30 years
ago) you have to add so much colorant to the base plastic material that
it normally deems the finished product unsatisfactory (you end up with
more color and less actual plastic).  It's easiest to make black, gray,
or off-white plastics because of the color of the base resins produced
by companies like GE.  White is still the hardest and a lot of
manufacturers avoid it by producing very light gray or very light beige
products instead.

I would assume that this was the case 25-30 years ago but the car
manufacturer's figured that by the time the plastic was deteriorating
the car would be past it's useful lifespan.



> Odd fact, early 70's Mopars with white interiors are notorious for 
> this problem (disintegrating plastic). For some reason interiors of 
> other colours stand up to ageing much better. Wonder why.
> 
> 
> -John Carri
> '72 Supreme
> '73 RoadRunner
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 16:16:13 EDT
From: JonKrisInc@aol.com
Subject: Re: Chalky Plastic on back side of front seats.. what to do?

In a message dated 4/16/99 2:17:06 PM EST, jcarri@alesis1.usa.com writes:

<< Over on the Mopar mailing list someone posted their solution, which 
 was to lightly bead-blast (!) the plastic seat-backs and thus remove 
 the flaky surface layers, after which he used the usual Vinyl paint 
 (SEM, Plastikote, Eastwood, etc) to restore the surface appearance. >>


Keeping that in mind, I wonder if the same process would be successful for 
redoing a dash? Would plasticote have enough plastic in it to fill dashboard 
cracks while also giving a new color to the dash? Seems to me, it could help 
those of us with big cars for which there is no dash replacement made. Has 
anybody had any experience with this?
Bruce
75 Delta 88 conv (duals of course)

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 16:17:53 EDT
From: WMACHINES@aol.com
Subject: Re: anyone put a new style master cyl

In a message dated 99-04-16 09:58:13 EDT, you write:

<< Did you notice any pedal change? Do you know what size bore the new one 
was? My
 understanding is if you go with a smaller bore your pedal throw will be more 
but
 it will reduce pedal effort. I was looking at the master cylinder on my 90 
S10
 Blazer it is new style but it looks real big. What made you decide to use 
the 80
 cutlass unit? Sorry so many questions. thanks again in advance. joe
 
 WMACHINES@aol.com wrote:
 
 > In a message dated 99-04-15 13:44:41 EDT, you write:
 >
 > << has anyone put a new style master cylinder on there 70's cutlass. Im
 > looking
 >  > to put the plastic and aluminum style with a 1'' bore on my 72 cutlass.
 >  > Curious to know what year car you got it from. >>
 > I put one on my 71 Supreme before it was stolen.  It was a power brake 
master
 > cylinder from a 78-80 Cutlass Supreme.  No problems at all.
 >
 > regards
 > W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
 > 72 442 W-30
 
  >>
No sir I didn't find any pedal change and for stopping power, I think my car 
reacted quicker. But I could be wrong.  If you use a bigger piston, this will 
cause a higher pressure to be developed which would be applied to your 
calipers and wheel cylinders.  This increased pressure would cause a quicker 
reaction with greater force.  As for using the 78 Cutlass cylinder, I got an 
extra one from parting out a 78 Cutlass and thought I would try it.  It 
worked.

W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30 race rocket

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 16:21:02 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: OPPS Here's the #'s 7044558

In a message dated 4/15/99 11:10:43 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
creature48212@yahoo.com writes:

<< Sorry about forgeting the no's. 
   7044558 
 
      Thanks Again
      Rick
      69 Cutlass 'S' >>

 	Sorry this took so long...'74, 455, California, Cutlass/Olds. Hope 
that helps. Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 13:33:22 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: 66 Automatic Console Comparison

I think the manual consoles _are_ the same, that's why I limited my
statement to the automatics

Sure wish I had a manual 4 speed in my Starfire. _That_ would be a rare
car...

cf

- -----Original Message-----
From: W-MACHINES [mailto:wmachine@en.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 1999 7:17 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: 66 Automatic Console Comparison


Interesting info.  The console in my (factory) 4-speed Jetstar 1 *looks*
like the 442 type, but I never measured or closely compared it.

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com   
Centennial Feature at http://www.en.com/users/wmachine/wm.html
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 - Sold ;(
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: 66 Automatic Console Comparison
> Date: Thursday, April 15, 1999 12:31 PM
> 
> I did a little research last night in my Chassis Service Manual and my
1967
> Part & Accessories catalog. 
> 
> I learned that the consoles for the Starfire/88/98 (not that there ever
was
> a console 98...) are different from those
> used in the Cutlass/442. This may seem obvious, but I just wanted to put
it
> out there as conclusive. The preceding is clear for 65-66, but they may
be
> different going back further as well.
> 
> If anybody wants jpegs comparing the two for further evidence or for fun,
> please email me privately. I'll retain the jpegs for a few days from
today.
> 
> cf

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 13:37:26 -0700
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: anyone put a new style master cyl

I retrofitted a 79 or 80 Toro 1" (I think) bore on my 66 98. Works great.
Good pedal feel. Like the visibility of any
change in fluid level. Good fix.

cf

- -----Original Message-----
From: WMACHINES@aol.com [mailto:WMACHINES@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, April 15, 1999 5:25 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: anyone put a new style master cyl


In a message dated 99-04-15 13:44:41 EDT, you write:

<< has anyone put a new style master cylinder on there 70's cutlass. Im 
looking
 > to put the plastic and aluminum style with a 1'' bore on my 72 cutlass.
 > Curious to know what year car you got it from. >>
I put one on my 71 Supreme before it was stolen.  It was a power brake
master 
cylinder from a 78-80 Cutlass Supreme.  No problems at all.

regards 
W MACHINES (Mark Prince)
72 442 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 16 Apr 1999 15:42:19 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: points to HEI, how?

>> You'll need to change the plugs and wires at the same
>> time and open up your plug gap to .060 to take advantage 
>> of the HEI.
>
>My '76 shop manual says to gap the 350 at 0.080 (!) and the 455 at
>0.060. All I know is that 0.080 works a lot better on my '76 CS 350 than
>0.040 which is what the previous owner's "mechanic" set them at.


I ran into this also.  I experimented with both .060 and .080 gaps along
with various heat ranges on my 72.  I finally settled on a .060 gap with
AC R46SZ plugs.  If I'm thinking correctly, the R46 is the application 
and the SZ is the heat range.  Of course, trying to get a parts clerk to
give you a plug one heat range hotter/colder is a good way to get 
moose looks.  :P  

>I picked up an complete HEI distributor and wires last weekend out of a
>'78 350 Cutlass 4d. Looks pretty good. I hope to slip it in the '71 VC
>this weekend.
>
>Charles

May I ask how much you paid?  The one on my 72 was pieced together
from about 6 old distributors that were laying around my shop, but for
the 68 I'm going to have to go out and buy one.  I've seen a couple good
candidates that even had new wires/cap on them.  

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1908
*********************************

