Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1949


oldsmobile-digest        Monday, May 10 1999        Volume 01 : Number 1949



Broke my Windshield
Re: !!!NEEDED!!! : used SB headers
Re: Experiences with front end rebuilds?
Re: please post message
Re: Broke my Windshield
Re: 68 & 72 Interchangability
UNBOUNCE: Pondering '62 Cutlass
Attention Collectors:  Color change????
UNBOUNCE: '68 Delta Parts Car
[none]
Re: Attention Collectors:  Color change????
Re: !!!NEEDED!!! : used SB headers
Re: !!!NEEDED!!! : used SB headers
Re: Broke my Windshield
Re: Broke my Windshield
442.com "FAQ" .Zip File Location?
ISO: 455/TH400
BB Olds windage tray/big car spindles
Mallory Unilite Distributor
Re: Experiences with front end rebuilds?
442 Super Stock II Wheels
Re: !!!NEEDED!!! : used SB headers
Re: Broke my Windshield
Re: 442 Super Stock II Wheels
Engine Ground Strap/Imp?
Re: Attention Collectors:  Color change????
Re: UNBOUNCE: '68 Delta Parts Car
Re: W-Machine Registry
Who needed '68 Cutlass glass?
Re: Engine Ground Strap/Imp?
Re: 68 2 piece Rotors
Re: Engine Ground Strap/Imp?
Re: Engine Ground Strap/Imp?
fuel gauge problem, need help
Questions about the 81-85 A4 aluminum intake 
Question about the 81-85 A4 aluminum intake 
Re: Parking lights- Fixed!!!!  (Thanks Mike!)
MSD6AL box
Re: TBI question
Re: fuel gauge problem, need help
Re: Broke my Windshield
Re: Mallory Unilite Distributor
Re: barry grant carb
Re: car names..
Re: Question about the 81-85 A4 aluminum intake 
Re: fuel gauge problem, need help
OLDS COMES THRU AGAIN!
Newbie help with rearend
66 Starfire Interior Lights
RE: Attention Collectors:  Color change????
RE: BB Olds windage tray/big car spindles
Re: [Re: W-Zex.man.fuel pmp specs]
RE: Experiences with front end rebuilds?
RE: Experiences with front end rebuilds?
RE: Seat covers
Good Starfire Weekend
Re: How much for a tach?
66 Starfire Option hunt

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 16:38:30 EDT
From: VLHDancer@aol.com
Subject: Broke my Windshield

1968 olds cutlass 2 dr hard top. where my best buy?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 16:44:20 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: !!!NEEDED!!! : used SB headers

> 	Once again, I am looking for ANYONE whoa has a set of USED small 
block
> headers FOR CHEAP that will fit a 70 Cutlass. I'm talking like the $50
> range. 

If you're gonna spend $50 for used ones, why don't your just get new ones
for $69 from Summit?

> Matt Cremean
> mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu

- -> Bob

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 17:15:41 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Experiences with front end rebuilds?

Sure have!  YES!!!! it's woth every penny.  I have done 2 complete front and
rear polygraphite upgrades.  I did them both in my own garage.  I wont lie
to ya tho.  It is hell getting the old bushings out.  If you have a place to
farm that job out to;  do it!  I used PST for my Olds,  and I felt that I
got good quality parts for my money.  I did not upgrade to the 2 inch bar,
but a friend did.  He thinks the larger sway bar is much
better.  If you dont have a place to take out the bushings drop me a line.
Ill show ya how to make an at home press real cheap.  Like 10 dollars.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html

- ----- Original Message -----
From: Andy Mikesell <andymikesell@mediaone.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, May 09, 1999 11:22 AM
Subject: Experiences with front end rebuilds?


> I am looking into rebuilding the front end of my Delta
> 88 convertible.  Has anyone on the list had experience
> with the "Polygraphite" replacement kits, and if so,
> were there any drawbacks?
>
> I have heard some vendors say that Polygraphite can
> squeak, but it is  much more firm that the OEM rubber.
>
> Also, does anyone on the list have experiences with
> upgrading their sway bar on a full size car?   Just
> curious if it is worth the extra $120.
>
> - Andy
>
>
>
> --
> http://people.ne.mediaone.net/andymikesell
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 17:11:07 EDT
From: GorfBoy111@aol.com
Subject: Re: please post message

I would greatly appreciate a copy of the '67 Olds Cutalss 442 Wiring Diagram:
My address is:
Adam Peterson
2711 Anchor Ave.
Los Angeles, CA  90064
I would be willing to reimburse you in any way possible
Regards

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 17:20:17 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Broke my Windshield

I dont know,  but if anyone has an answere to this I would like to know the
same thing.  except I need a windshield for a 71 olds 442
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <VLHDancer@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, May 09, 1999 4:38 PM
Subject: Broke my Windshield


> 1968 olds cutlass 2 dr hard top. where my best buy?
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 May 1999 17:26:11 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: 68 & 72 Interchangability

Mike Bloomer wrote:
> 
> Anybody know if I can pull the rockers off of a 70-72 to go
> on my 68?  

My parts catalogs list rockers from '68 to '72 as being the same part.

> What about floor pan sections like the toe board?  

Ditto.

paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 18:56:46 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: Pondering '62 Cutlass

Not on the list, respond to SCJ483@aol.com if you can assist.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	SCJ483@aol.com
Subject: Pondering

I am thinking about buying a 1962 Olds Cutlass  but not having much luck on 
finding info or parts reated to this vehicle so if there is anyone with info 
on parts ect plese contact me at SCJ483@aol.com.
    Thanks 
      Tim Wetzel

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 May 1999 17:54:51 -0400
From: "Lawrence A. Biasotto" <lbiasotto@ce.net>
Subject: Attention Collectors:  Color change????

For all you collectors out there.  Any idea what impact a change from
original color to another olds stock color for same year would have on
the value of a show quality restored 71 SX convertible?  I am
considering changing colors from metallic silver to viking blue. 
Opinions on impact to $ value are appreciated.

Larry
'71 CS Convertible driver
'71 CS SX Convertible resto in process

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 19:01:14 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '68 Delta Parts Car

Not on the list, respond to ERT1999@aol.com if interested.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at: http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm

- ---------- Forwarded message ----------
From:	ERT1999@aol.com
Subject: (no subject)

Hey Everyone !! Just a litle note to let aanyone out there restoring a 1968 
Olds 98 that I have a two door 455 Rocket car that I am parting out. I am not 
a dealer but just a fellow trying to restore my 1968 Olds 98 four door and a 
1972 Monte Carlo and I need to sell off the parts from my two door to finish 
out my other projects. The car is basically complete (I used a few parts for 
my 4 door) and the 455 runs! The 400 THM is shot but it probably could be 
rebuilt. If anyone out there needs any parts off this two door please let me 
know via email response!!

Thanks A Lot!!
Mike Eakins

------------------------------

Date: Thu, 22 Apr 1999 20:20:29 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: [none]

Hi Listers,

is rocket talk still around? If yes, Thursday was the day, right? How was 
the address again? Anyone out there/

George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
- --------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 May 1999 18:22:15 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: Attention Collectors:  Color change????

Lawrence A. Biasotto wrote:
> 
> For all you collectors out there.  Any idea what impact a change from
> original color to another olds stock color for same year would have on
> the value of a show quality restored 71 SX convertible?  I am
> considering changing colors from metallic silver to viking blue.
> Opinions on impact to $ value are appreciated.
> 
> Larry
> '71 CS Convertible driver
> '71 CS SX Convertible resto in process

Color is a personal thing.  I've never owned a car that was a color that
I felt like changing.  If I were to buy a '62 Starfire convertible (my
favorite Olds) and it was a real super car, but wasn't white, I wouldn't
think twice about painting it.  My Starfire would have to be white with
a red interior, just like the one my parents had.  So as long as the
interior were red, the exterior could be black, silver, red, garnet,
maroon or rose and I would just change the color to white, because
that's what I want.  'Course, I'd prefer a white one that was supposed
to be white.  The AACA rule is that color changes are allowable as long
as it's a stock color for that year and you can prove it.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 May 1999 18:49:29 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: !!!NEEDED!!! : used SB headers

stephen minore wrote:
> 
> 
> Matt,
> 
> I have a set of Hooker headers with the high temp coating on them, they
> almost look like a dull chrome. They came off a 71 cutlass with a 350,
> they are in great shape, they are over your budget, I would like $100 for
> the set, I will pay shipping depending on where you are. Where are you
> located??? These are a nice set of headers!!!!!
> 
> steve

I am in Blissfield, MI. Man, those do sound like a very nice set of
headers, but they just a bit too rich for my blood. Have you seen The
Unit? There's no way I'd put really nice headers like that on that
thing! On my '73, probably, but that Unit is just too big of a pile for
such purty lil' parts. Thanks anyway, though!

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
*************************
http://drive.to/73cutlass
- -----------------------
'73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
'70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
'75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
*************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 May 1999 18:55:24 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: Re: !!!NEEDED!!! : used SB headers

Bob Valentine wrote:
> 
> >       Once again, I am looking for ANYONE whoa has a set of USED small 
block
> > headers FOR CHEAP that will fit a 70 Cutlass. I'm talking like the $50
> > range.
> 
> If you're gonna spend $50 for used ones, why don't your just get new ones
> for $69 from Summit?

HUH?! Where are these at?! I've never seen a set of headers for an Olds
with a price that low!

- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
*************************
http://drive.to/73cutlass
- -----------------------
'73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
'70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
'75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
*************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 18:51:04 EDT
From: Mrmagic442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Broke my Windshield

    Well guys, my name is Jeff. I own Windshield Magic Auto Glass.  
1-541-687-8061
I might be able to arrange for you to pick up glass in your local areas from 
my supplier.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 May 1999 18:10:12 -0500
From: tj <tj1852@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Broke my Windshield

I purchased a new windshield two years ago for $99.00 from a place
called Auto City Classics.  Since I live nearby, I picked it up myself,
so I am not sure about how much they charge for shipping.  It came
tinted  and included the radio antenna in the glass and an antenna wire.

AUTO CITY CLASSICS
28433 HIGHWAY 65 N.E.
ISANTI, MN 55040
Phone: 612.757.6233



VLHDancer@aol.com wrote:
> 
> 1968 olds cutlass 2 dr hard top. where my best buy?

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 19:18:33 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: 442.com "FAQ" .Zip File Location?

Could someone please direct me to where the 442 FAQ .zip file can be
downloaded from? The ftp sites linked at the start of the FAQ doesn't
produce the file.  Is there an updated Zip file since the FAQ site has been
updated?  Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 May 1999 19:41:11 -0400
From: Matt Cremean <creme1ma@cmich.edu>
Subject: ISO: 455/TH400

Hello Oldsmopeople,

	A buddy of mine and his dad are going to accept the challenge of
cramming a 455 in a G-body. The only problem is that they need a drive
train. He turned to his Olds Connection (me) and asked if I could help.
So, I'm counting on you guys. If anyone out there has a decent running,
possibly mildly built 455, or a good BOP TH400, or both, please let me
know.

Thanks y'all!!!!
- -- 
***********
Matt Cremean
mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
*************************
http://drive.to/73cutlass
- -----------------------
'73 Olds Cutlass Supreme
'70 Olds Cutlass 'S'
'75 Olds Cutlass 'S'
*************************

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 18:46:47 -0500
From: "Walker" <pwalker@megavision.com>
Subject: BB Olds windage tray/big car spindles

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BE9A4C.4ADF6920
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Does anybody know where i can get a bb olds windage tray?                =
                                                                         =
   =20
Will big=20
car (66 olds 98) spindles actually lower my 67 CS
 1 inch.   =20


67 CS driver
66  98 parts car

- ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BE9A4C.4ADF6920
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

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<HTML>
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<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
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<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.72.3110.7"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Does anybody know where i can get a =
bb olds=20
windage=20
tray?&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nb=
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nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&n=
bsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Will big </FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>car (66 olds 98) spindles actually =
lower my 67=20
CS</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>&nbsp;1 inch.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; =
</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>67 CS driver</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>66&nbsp; 98 parts =
car</FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0006_01BE9A4C.4ADF6920--

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 20:30:45 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: Mallory Unilite Distributor

Anyone running a Mallory Unilite Distributor on a 455?  What are your
likes/dislikes about it? Anything you would change/add to this ignition
system? Any other distributor I would be better to consider. I'll be running
an Offy intake and there is no clearance to run an HEI unit. The Unilite was
suggested by the engine builder but I have no prior knowledge of this
distributor and setup.

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

- -------------------------------------------------------------------
Like FREE Money? Just go to
http://alladvantage.com/go.asp?refid=AQE115
Members are paid for their own Web browsing
($.50 per Hour) and for referrals. Please tell all
of your friends about this program as possible.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 May 1999 17:33:39 -0700
From: Ben <olds442@digitaldune.net>
Subject: Re: Experiences with front end rebuilds?

I did my front end a few months ago. Not ONE squeek! It's great! Firm,
quick to respond!!! Not one complaint. Easy to install. The hardest part
was getting the bushings out of the upper and lower control arms. With a
bench vise and a hammer (if you don't have a press) and it went easy.
Took me two 8 hour periods to do the whole thing. One side complete on
one day and finished it all up the next. I used polygraphit from PST.
good package complete with EVERYTHING you need to put them in.

Ben
68 442

Andy Mikesell wrote:

> I am looking into rebuilding the front end of my Delta
> 88 convertible.  Has anyone on the list had experience
> with the "Polygraphite" replacement kits, and if so,
> were there any drawbacks?
>
> I have heard some vendors say that Polygraphite can
> squeak, but it is  much more firm that the OEM rubber.
>
> Also, does anyone on the list have experiences with
> upgrading their sway bar on a full size car?   Just
> curious if it is worth the extra $120.
>
> - Andy
>
> --
> http://people.ne.mediaone.net/andymikesell

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 May 1999 18:01:15 PDT
From: "flynt myrick" <f_myrick@hotmail.com>
Subject: 442 Super Stock II Wheels

Are there any date codes on Super Stock II wheels?  If so, can someone tell 
me where to find the codes and how to interpret the codes?

When a 1969 442 was ordered with Super Stock II wheels, was the spare tire 
on a Super Stock II wheel or a plane wheel?

Flynt Myrick
f_myrick@hotmail.com
http://www.hotmail.com


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 May 1999 21:13:36 -0700
From: stephen minore <steven.minore@snet.net>
Subject: Re: !!!NEEDED!!! : used SB headers

Bob Valentine wrote:
> 
> >       Once again, I am looking for ANYONE whoa has a set of USED small 
block
> > headers FOR CHEAP that will fit a 70 Cutlass. I'm talking like the $50
> > range.
> 
> If you're gonna spend $50 for used ones, why don't your just get new ones
> for $69 from Summit?
> 
> > Matt Cremean
> > mailto:creme1ma@cmich.edu
> 
> -> Bobif you buy those headers from Summit you will also need a $50 hammer 
to 
get them to fit. Unless they are Hokker you are going to have a hard time 
getting them to git. I have tried thid stunt several times, buy the best 
when it comes to headers, (this is not a sales pitch either!!!!)


steve

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 21:05:51 -0400
From: "Randy Geisel" <Rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Broke my Windshield

Guys,

Try your local auto glass shop. I bought a windshield for the 72 H/O last
year for $159 installed. Tinted with antenna in the glass and they came to
my place to install it.They had the windshield the day after I called.

Randy


> I dont know,  but if anyone has an answere to this I would like to know
the
> same thing.  except I need a windshield for a 71 olds 442
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <VLHDancer@aol.com>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Sunday, May 09, 1999 4:38 PM
> Subject: Broke my Windshield
>
>
> > 1968 olds cutlass 2 dr hard top. where my best buy?
> >
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 May 1999 21:11:10 -0400
From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
Subject: Re: 442 Super Stock II Wheels

flynt myrick wrote:
> 
> Are there any date codes on Super Stock II wheels?  If so, can someone tell
> me where to find the codes and how to interpret the codes?
> 
> When a 1969 442 was ordered with Super Stock II wheels, was the spare tire
> on a Super Stock II wheel or a plane wheel?

Don't know about the date codes, but the spare wheel would have been
SSII.

Paul
- -- 
Paul Hartlieb
Myerstown, PA
mailto:plh@nbn.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 20:28:13 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Engine Ground Strap/Imp?

The ground strap that goes from the engine block to the firewall on my 72
was not connected properly. Instead of the strap being in direct contact
with the firewall it was in contact with a plastic hold down strap. The
bolt went through it but the strap itself was never in contact with the
metal firewall itself just the plastic strap. This I would assume would be
a bad ground, correct? I hope this will solve my problem with the
electrical problem I was having.. I won't find out till tomorrow when I
start the car. 

Out of curiosity now, could that have caused the volts to sometimes jump
around at idle?

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 21:30:41 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: Attention Collectors:  Color change????

In a message dated 5/9/99 4:59:04 PM Central Daylight Time, lbiasotto@ce.net 
writes:

<< For all you collectors out there.  Any idea what impact a change from
 original color to another olds stock color for same year would have on
 the value of a show quality restored 71 SX convertible?  I am
 considering changing colors from metallic silver to viking blue. 
 Opinions on impact to $ value are appreciated.
  >>
  It is hard to price a color change from factory. It will not only devalue 
the car from a collectors standpoint, it will essentially be unrecoverable 
costs. I say "unrecoverable", since you will , in effect, be paying several 
thousand dollars for a show quality paint job that will just need to be fully 
stripped to make the car original again.

Collyn

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 21:35:33 -0400
From: "jackkopf" <jackkopf@email.msn.com>
Subject: Re: UNBOUNCE: '68 Delta Parts Car

Where is the car? I also have a 70' 98 4 door parts car
available if you have any needs.

Jack
- -----Original Message-----
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: May 9, 1999 6:01 PM
Subject: UNBOUNCE: '68 Delta Parts Car


>Not on the list, respond to ERT1999@aol.com if interested.
>
>Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova
Scotia, Canada
>   --- Olds List Admin Instructions at:
http://oldslist.tsx.org ---
>             &  http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm
>
>---------- Forwarded message ----------
>From: ERT1999@aol.com
>Subject: (no subject)
>
>Hey Everyone !! Just a litle note to let aanyone out there
restoring a 1968
>Olds 98 that I have a two door 455 Rocket car that I am
parting out. I am not
>a dealer but just a fellow trying to restore my 1968 Olds
98 four door and a
>1972 Monte Carlo and I need to sell off the parts from my
two door to finish
>out my other projects. The car is basically complete (I
used a few parts for
>my 4 door) and the 455 runs! The 400 THM is shot but it
probably could be
>rebuilt. If anyone out there needs any parts off this two
door please let me
>know via email response!!
>
>Thanks A Lot!!
>Mike Eakins
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 18:53:22 -0400
From: "W-MACHINES" <wmachine@en.com>
Subject: Re: W-Machine Registry

Are you including W-29, W-33, W-34?  (66-72 exclude W-41)

Kurt & Rose   wmachine@en.com   
Centennial Feature at http://www.en.com/users/wmachine/wm.html
'65 Jetstar 1 4-speed                   '70 Toronado GT W-34 - Sold ;(
'66 442 Sport Coupe 4-speed       '92 Achieva SCX W-41
'66 442 F-85 Deluxe factory L-69  '90 Trofeo

- ----------
> From: DROLDS350@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Cc: DROLDS350@aol.com
> Subject: W-Machine Registry
> Date: Saturday, May 08, 1999 10:45 AM
> 
> Hello,
> 	If anyone remembers, I tried getting a registry for W-Machines about 
> a year ago. I sent something to the list asking for anyone with a 66-72 
> W-Machine to e-mail me with info. I am going to try this again with a new

> computer and database. 
> 	I had about 20 cars before my computer broke and I lost all the 
> information. If you own a 66-72 Olds W-Machine please e-mail me with the 
> following info:
> Car	Year	Color	Transmission	Owner	
Interior Color	Stripe Color	
> Rear Axle	Vin		Engine			
> Please e-mail me this info to: <A 
> HREF="mailto:drolds350@aol.com">drolds350@aol.com
> </A> with the subject, W-Machines.
> 	Anyone who had e-mailed me before with info, if you could please 
> resend it to me I would greatly appreciate it!
> Thanks!
> Jim McKeague
> 1970 Rally 350
> 1970 Cutlass W-31

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 May 1999 21:54:56 -0400
From: Gene Gatti <jerseydevil@mindspring.com>
Subject: Who needed '68 Cutlass glass?

Hi,
   I was doing my usual ebay thing and stumbled across glass for a '68
Cutlass and i remember someone here asked about it. Here's the URL:

http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=100563782

Good luck,
Gene

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 21:54:49 -0400
From: "Randy Geisel" <Rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Engine Ground Strap/Imp?

> Instead of the strap being in direct contact  with the firewall it was in
contact >with a plastic hold down strap.

Granted, this isn't the ideal way to ground the strap, but as long as it had
good contact with the bolt head........it was still grounded to the
firewall.

> Out of curiosity now, could that have caused the volts to sometimes jump
> around at idle?

I doubt it, but.........

Randy

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 May 1999 21:10:12 -0500
From: Dan Williams <442much@home.com>
Subject: Re: 68 2 piece Rotors

Not sure how much they would be worth, but it depends on how much meat
is left on 'em.  The two piece have not been available for a long time. 
I would say they would be worth at least as much as a set of new one
piece rotors if they have a decent amount of metal left.  If they have a
substantial amount of life left, then the price should be a lot more. 
Another note on their value, I have had problems with the one piece
rotors not clearing the disc brakes.  The two piece set up is tapered
and provides plenty of clearance.  

Robert Schinkel wrote:
> 
> I picked up a set of 2 piece rotors today for 68.  I have never had a set,
> and I never knew what they looked like til Jim Chermac showed me a while
> back.
> They are in good condition,
> My question is How Much?
> I have no idea what they are worth.  All I am looking for is a ball park
> figure.
> Any help appreciated.
> 
> Oh I also got a black console and dash pad for same.
> Any interest in these parts E me
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
> Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454

- -- 
Dan Williams                            442Much@home.com
Marion, IA                             68 442 Convertible

				   (+)------------------------------------(+)
        |  http://www.442.com/williams68.html  | 
       (+)------------------------------------(+)

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 22:13:13 EDT
From: RPTW32@aol.com
Subject: Re: Engine Ground Strap/Imp?

In a message dated 5/9/99 9:24:03 PM Eastern Daylight Time, 
PETTRIX@prodigy.net writes:

<< The
 bolt went through it but the strap itself was never in contact with the
 metal firewall itself just the plastic strap. This I would assume would be
 a bad ground, correct?  >>

Yes indeed this would be a bad ground. Take the strap and take some 240 grit 
or coarser paper and rough yup the end that will make contact with firewall. 
Also scuff the firewall at same point so you have good metal/metal contact. 
Might want to put some dielectric grease on this as well to keep this area 
from getting corroded again.
Don't know about the voltage bounce at idle but will definitely help with 
entire electrical system.

Rob Thomas
69,442

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 May 1999 22:16:40 -0400
From: Gene Gatti <jerseydevil@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Engine Ground Strap/Imp?

Hi Peter,
   Yes it could be the problem. In fact I had this exact same problem on my
pickup truck. Because of the lack of ground between the engine and chassis
it burned out a voltage regulator. My truck is a stick shift and whenever I
depressed the clutch pedal my lights would flash very brightly for a mere
instant. In my case the negative battery cable is supposed to be clamped to
the front crossmember and then connect to a starter bolt. My clamp loosened
and because of grease and corrosion was not making contact. Clean and
corredt that ground and your problem should be solved.
Good luck,
Gene 

At 08:28 PM 5/9/99 -0500, you wrote:
>The ground strap that goes from the engine block to the firewall on my 72
>was not connected properly. Instead of the strap being in direct contact
>with the firewall it was in contact with a plastic hold down strap. The
>bolt went through it but the strap itself was never in contact with the
>metal firewall itself just the plastic strap. This I would assume would be
>a bad ground, correct? I hope this will solve my problem with the
>electrical problem I was having.. I won't find out till tomorrow when I
>start the car. 
>
>Out of curiosity now, could that have caused the volts to sometimes jump
>around at idle?
>
>Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 19:20:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: fuel gauge problem, need help

  I'm having a problem with my fuel gauge on my 1970 cutlass.  When my
headlights are off, it shows empty, and when my headlights are on, it
shows about 1 1/2 inches past full, or basically like I have 2 tank
fulls!  I had a similar problem show up a while back, where the needle
dropped past full, but when I filled it up, it corrected itself.  This
latest problem seems to have shown up since I replaced my rear bumper. 
Is there a wire that's connected wrong somewhere?

Thanks in Advance for any input,
  Stefan
  1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
  70Cutlass@Beer.com
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 19:35:24 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Questions about the 81-85 A4 aluminum intake 

  Ok, there was a string a while back about these things.  I believe I
have found one in a local yard.  They want $35 (including carb).  It's
in an '83 Delta 88.  Here's my question... How would I go about putting
this thing on my 70 Cutlass?  I've never done an intake swap, but I've
heard it's not that difficult.  I'd be either rebuilding the carb
that's on that intake, or maybe buying an Edelbrock or Holly 650.  Any
help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
  Stefan
  1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
  70Cutlass@Beer.com


_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 19:35:46 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Question about the 81-85 A4 aluminum intake 

  Ok, there was a string a while back about these things.  I believe I
have found one in a local yard.  They want $35 (including carb).  It's
in an '83 Delta 88.  Here's my question... How would I go about putting
this thing on my 70 Cutlass?  I've never done an intake swap, but I've
heard it's not that difficult.  I'd be either rebuilding the carb
that's on that intake, or maybe buying an Edelbrock or Holly 650.  Any
help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
  Stefan
  1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
  70Cutlass@Beer.com


_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 22:37:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Re: Parking lights- Fixed!!!!  (Thanks Mike!)

Well, certainly I am the one who should be thanking everyone. This problem
car is my car. I believe Mike can testify to the mess the underdash wiring
was...

It was almost comical seeing all the old jumper wires that had been removed.
About six if I counted correctly. And all because someone years ago put in
the wrong type bulb in an underdash light socket. Instead of checking the
bulb, they prceeded to cut wires.

I'm most grateful for the time Mike took to help me with the problems. He's
certainly very knowledgeable about automotive "stuff" and, coupled with his
desire to do things right, it's nice for me, a mechanical nitwit, to have
someone like that on my side when trying to solve these things.

Mike fixes Apache helicopters for a living (but not those in Kosovo!) I do
feel a little better about hearing those things flying over the house at
night now :-). He needs to strongly consider getting into the old car
restoration business when he gets out of the Army. I can attest to his
ability. He'd certainly have my business.

Thanks Mike, and everyone on the list (who I don't even know) who helped him
try to figure out my backlash of electrical wiring. I'm sure I'll have more
problems and will need your assistance again.


Chris Casteel
'68 442 convertible 




At 11:11 PM 5/8/99 -0500, you wrote:
>For those that helped out on this problem I would just like to
>thank you again. I checked on the car and the brown/white 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 21:46:09 -0500 (EST)
From: hurst455@webtv.net (Corey Putnam)
Subject: MSD6AL box

   After two full days of trying to get my new engine to run right, I`ve
finally ditched the Barry Grant 850 and went to the Edelbrock 750. I put
about 62 miles on it today just happy to have it on the road again.
   I`ve tried hooking the MSD box up but it`s not right. The diagrams in
the instructions show hook-ups for 5 and 7 pin modual and the Accel
distributor that I have is a 4 pin type. The only 4 pin they show is for
a HEI w/ magnetic pickup. Does anyone know how to properly hook this up
to an Accel HEI ?
   Since I`ve used the Barry Grant carb, I doubt the speed shop will
take it back so if anyone is interested in putting in a bid on it e-mail
me and let me know. It was only on the car for a total of 35 minutes of
run-time.  

Corey Putnam
75 H/O W-30(my way)
87 Regal w/Olds 455
H/OCA #0915A
OCC #0208
OCA #031246
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Boulevard/4930

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 May 1999 21:48:54 -0700
From: Andy Lawrence <lawrencj@coral.indstate.edu>
Subject: Re: TBI question

Lou Biggs wrote:

> 2 cents;
> And detonation occurs when you have a spark and the heat and pressure cause
> another fire to start in the combustion chamber at the same time, the two
> flame fronts collide and broken pieces occur. Pinging and detonation are
> NOT the same. Starting the flame all over again. Miss me?
> Lou
> PS Could be running very lean when cold, that would cause it too. Lean
> mixtures cause pinging and detonation both.

Well i agree with you there, but when the engine is cold the computer
automatically chokes the engine!  So it is running richer, i can verify this by
hearing the exhaust!

This problems seems very puzzleing to me, it doesn't seem right!  I keep
thinking that something with wrong with my engine.....

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 May 1999 23:18:06 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: fuel gauge problem, need help

Stefan,

Had a similar problem.  Turned out to be a faulty voltage regulator which
was putting out too much voltage.  If your lights seem abnormally bright
too, check out the regulator.

Dude

Stefan Gadecki wrote:

>   I'm having a problem with my fuel gauge on my 1970 cutlass.  When my
> headlights are off, it shows empty, and when my headlights are on, it
> shows about 1 1/2 inches past full, or basically like I have 2 tank
> fulls!  I had a similar problem show up a while back, where the needle
> dropped past full, but when I filled it up, it corrected itself.  This
> latest problem seems to have shown up since I replaced my rear bumper.
> Is there a wire that's connected wrong somewhere?
>
> Thanks in Advance for any input,
>   Stefan
>   1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
>   70Cutlass@Beer.com
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 09 May 1999 23:23:48 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: Broke my Windshield

VLHDancer@aol.com wrote:
> 
> 1968 olds cutlass 2 dr hard top. where my best buy?

If you have a friedn or relative that has a body shop, ask them.  The
last time I checked on a new windshield for my 69 Cutlass conv it was
under $200 new, installed.  For that kind of money I wouldn't bother
with used or trying to put it in myself.  It's dangerous if you don't
know what you are doing and the chances are pretty good you will crack
or break it anyway.  If you are used to doing this kind of work, I'm
sure they would sell you the glass, but I wouldn't mess with it.  Where
are you located?  Maybe I can help if I know anyone in the vicinity. 
Email me privately if you would.  Good luck.

Don Sowers
Nicholasville, KY

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 23:42:23 EDT
From: Bumluk@aol.com
Subject: Re: Mallory Unilite Distributor

I have one but had trouble with it being compatible with my msd ignition box. 
In the end the module fried, but mallory sent me a new one under warranty. 
Its now for sale if you want to try it with the unopened module. $100.00 
                                                                  

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 23:47:19 EDT
From: Bumluk@aol.com
Subject: Re: barry grant carb

Which Barry grant carb do you have???

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 22:56:51 -0500 (CDT)
From: Kimberly Ann Wandrey <kaw0006@jove.acs.unt.edu>
Subject: Re: car names..

Hello Everyone!

I know I have been scarce lately, but between wrapping up the semester and
work things have been hecktic. Here is my reply to this thread: I am the
proud Mommy of two beautiful Oldsmochildren, Junior and Hope. 

Junior is my Nordic Blue '72 Olds Cutlass Supreme. My Grandpa Jenkins
ordered and purchased Junior in 1972. I was six months old when Junior
joined our family. He has been a family car all along and I will be buried
in him. I inherited him when I was 15 and my Dad and I restored him and I
drove him through high school, college and now graduate school. Junior is
powered by a 350 4bbl Carter 625 and a 350 turbo transmission. He is very
popular on the street and gets lots of attention. (Beleive me, they always
look at the car, not the ugly driver) ;) Junior is my workhorse. He is
extremely dependable drivetrain wise. He does need interior and body work
and that will come after I graduate with my Master's next year. 

Leading up to Hope: I was looking for a good truck or car to take over the
responsiblity of being a daily driver so I can retire and begin restoring
Junior. Hope is my '64 F-85. Hope was bought by my friend Ronnie's mother
after her Tarino was wrecked. His mother drove Hope, and her family got
her a different car. Ronnie inherited Hope and drove him for a while and
then problems with the brakes, motor and carb happened. So Hope sat. My
friends and I had a great time in the car, and the car was always neat. I
liked Hope right off the bat after they bought him and kept threatening to
steal it. ;) It seemed like fate because each time I found a truck I liked
the deal fell through or I did not have the money. 

Hope's inspection ran out and the city sent Ronnie the notice about either
remove your car or we will crush it for you and I immediately jumped on
the opportunity to purchase Hope. I renamed him Hope because it is such a
good solid car and it seemed wasteful just to let it be junked. So I gave
him another chance at life. :) Hope currently has a 330 and a two speed
automatic tranny, but I think the motor is cracked. So if that is the case
Hope will become Mom's Hot Rod and will get a 455/400 set up. :) My goal
is to begin work on Hope in the fall. 

Take care, everyone! I hope to see you at the Nationals next month! Junior
and I will be there! :) 

Kim, Junior ('72 Cutlass Supreme) & Hope ('64 F-85) :) 
Dallas, Texas
Member NTOC & OCA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 00:18:06 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: Re: Question about the 81-85 A4 aluminum intake 

In a message dated 5/9/99 7:36:06 PM Pacific Daylight Time, 
sgadecki@yahoo.com writes:

<<  I've never done an intake swap, but I've
 heard it's not that difficult.  I'd be either rebuilding the carb
 that's on that intake, or maybe buying an Edelbrock or Holly 650.  Any
 help would be greatly appreciated.
 
 Thanks,
   Stefan >>

        That carb is going to be a CCC model, unless a previous owner has 
swapped it. Have the yard let you swap out a non CCC Q-jet..they usually get 
more for the CCC models anyway. Shouldn't be that hard of a swap. When I 
rebuilt my 403 (which is now running great by the way) I put the A4 on it. 
Much easier than dealing with the twice as heavy cast one : ) 
     Use the gray Permatex for the front and rear seal on the intake/block 
mating surfaces, as opposed to the gaskets that the kits come with. Worked 
great for me..no leaks so far. Only thing to watch for is stripped out 
threads (or stripping them out yourself), especially for the thermostat 
housing. They make really cool threaded sleeves (don't have to worry about 
sealing the sleeve like you do Heli-Coils, plus cheaper) that use standard 
thread pitch taps. Good luck, Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 00:28:12 EDT
From: Biscayne2d@aol.com
Subject: Re: fuel gauge problem, need help

If i remember correctly there is a ground for the sending unit in the back of 
the car near the rear bumper im not shure where exactly tho

Paul In WI

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 00:12:49 -0500
From: riksab@postoffice.swbell.net
Subject: OLDS COMES THRU AGAIN!

LIST,funny story if you got the time.
    first i have a daily driver 69-98 very nice cond.unfortunetly i work
mild construction
so it does get dusty from time to time.On friday my boss went to the
lumberyard in his 92
ford explorer w/ trailer for allot of supplies, on his way back to the
site his tranny gave out
leaving him stranded about a mile away, after an hour of him being
missing in action i
decided to drive the route to check for any problems.What i found was a
very angry boss
who was not looking forward to calling a tow service.With a snicker i
told him that i could
tow his truck and trailer the rest of the way,In disbelief he agreed.
the chains were on and we were rollin i was practically idling and never
had a problem
with power from my 455.I never had a doubt that my baby could do it .and
that single
mile was pure oldsmobile pride!!!

just had to brag,
i love the list.
chris.

------------------------------

Date: Sat, 8 May 1999 23:38:11 -0600
From: "Jeff Newman" <newsance@netzero.net>
Subject: Newbie help with rearend

Alright guys, I know most of these questions will be stupid, but...

I am currently in the "fact finding" stage of a rearend project. However, I
know absolutely NOTHING about differentials, nor do any of the manual,
magazines, websites, etc that I have come across explain how to change rear
gears.

I would love any help you folks can give, be it steering me to  a website,
or firsthand experience.

I have a 1984 buick park avenue (electra) which has 2.11 rear gears in it,
with the 307 and th2004r. I am not joking. I have been told that rears will
make the biggest speed difference on any car,  and with my overdrive tranny,
3.73 rear gears will still be freeway friendly (like the stock 83-87 HO's
and 442's that have 307's th200's and 3.73 rear gears stock).

questions:

1. Can I expect to do this job myself? I am quite proffiecient in car
repair, but do I need any special tools?  How long will it take me?

2. How much will this cost?

3. Anybody know anythintg about the BU rearend? I have heard that 3.3 is the
highest ratio the stock rearend will take, is this true?

4. (I know this is a stupid question) How in gods name do I recalibrate a
speedo?

________________________________________________________
NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet.  Shouldn't you?
Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 22:37:00 -0700 
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: 66 Starfire Interior Lights

Paul & Andy,
Thanks for your help. Got the interior lights working this weekend with the
help of parts from a 69 98. I yanked parts of a  boneyard harness so that
the color codes and connectors were the right color/style. From these parts
I soldered up a little factory style jumper cable between the main power
harness and interior light harness. 

Only problem now is that the headlight switch can't be used to fire up the
interior lights, but the door switches work perfectly. Any ideas on the
headlight switch? I know it's just another ground switch like the
bass-ackwards stuff you described in your previous note. I'm satisfied, but
for this nit. 

Was thinking it might be sound to put a fuse in the main positive wire into
this harness for safety. Do you happen to know if the orange positive lead
is already fused at the fuse box making this extra-safety feature redundant?

Many thanks again for your help. Invaluable as usual. Boy have we got a good
thing going here.

cf

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 22:48:55 -0700 
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Attention Collectors:  Color change????

I'm not a collector or anything, but maybe my 66 98 conv. and my 66 Starfire
qualify me to respond...

I don't have a big thing about color changes. I expect it would devalue the
car as noted in previous posts because it would need to be stripped again to
make it "correct". 

I just did an interior color change from a horrendous red/autumn bronze to a
much better ('cording to my fiancee...) parchment/autumn bronze. It looks a
helluva a lot better, but if someone were to decode the cowl tag, they'd
know I've done this change because it's coded there how the car was
delivered. The only thing I changed was the color the vinyl and carpets. I
completely reused all the interior chrome and had the console painted black
over the original red. Also the bucket seats had to be repainted parchment. 

Personally, the association message looks good to me -- do what you want,
but stick with colors that were available for your car in it's original
year. 

Frankly the more I do to these cars, the more I realize it's an expense, not
an investment. I'll get my returns in enjoyment, not $. I fully expect to
lose money on this car if & when I choose to sell it. So the real game is
how much I enjoy it as I want it while I have it. 

Hope that helps!
cf



- -----Original Message-----
From: Lawrence A. Biasotto [mailto:lbiasotto@ce.net]
Sent: Sunday, May 09, 1999 2:55 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Attention Collectors: Color change????


For all you collectors out there.  Any idea what impact a change from
original color to another olds stock color for same year would have on
the value of a show quality restored 71 SX convertible?  I am
considering changing colors from metallic silver to viking blue. 
Opinions on impact to $ value are appreciated.

Larry
'71 CS Convertible driver
'71 CS SX Convertible resto in process

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 22:51:15 -0700 
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: BB Olds windage tray/big car spindles

[Chris Fair] 
I don't think you can swap spindles from big cars to A bodies. I was trying
to go the other way to get A body disc brakes and found the balljoints were
different. You could do some custom machine work, but that gets into $$. 
 
Uh, any interesting options on that 66 98  -- like say a remote mirror,
cruise control or reverb? 
 
Just wondering....
cf
 
 
 ----Original Message-----
From: Walker [mailto:pwalker@megavision.com]
Sent: Sunday, May 09, 1999 4:47 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: BB Olds windage tray/big car spindles


Does anybody know where i can get a bb olds windage
tray?                                                                       
                      
Will big 
car (66 olds 98) spindles actually lower my 67 CS
 1 inch.    
 
 
67 CS driver
66  98 parts car

------------------------------

Date: 9 May 99 22:57:29 PDT
From: Randy Hermsen <76Cutlass@netscape.net>
Subject: Re: [Re: W-Zex.man.fuel pmp specs]

If you got ~lots~ of 72 peices, post about those you saw, but did not need.
Likly to be others that do need.

Hey there guys, hey about telling about parts, that are there and I don't
want, and to list it for others maybe in need.

Well I am not in the States guys. I am in BC Canada, was not thinking that you
would travel up this way for parts, but with the exchange in money, I Am Sure
you's would like that part.

Also did not understand what you said about the trunk lid. Heard and found out
that they are the same. But would still be curious on what it is that you
think.Does a 2 dr hard top trunk lid fit my conv. or do I need a 4 dr trunk
lid? 

Also I have 73 Mustang Mach 1 rear deck spoiler. Heard they fit Dodge Dart
also. Do you know which Cutlass came with rear deck spoiler? Didn't the 70's 
yellow car come out with it? &  Do you think they were the same?

One more thing, please fill me in on the meanings of 
SOM
&KA

LoL thanx
 
Randy 
    76 Cutlass Sup.
    72 Cutlass Sup. Conv.

____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://webmail.netscape.com.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 22:58:02 -0700 
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Experiences with front end rebuilds?

Just did the front sway bar on the 66 Starfire today. Fresh experience. 
1) The TRW part numbers my normally excellent parts co. had were not the
parts.
2) I wound up getting 1" bar urethane (greased for squeak silence)frame
bushings. 
3) I used urethane end bushings too. 

Net result is a noticeable flattening of the handling of this big car. Can't
wait to get that rear sway bar on. 

I'd rather have gone with factory rubber, but they had the urethane in stock
and it came with grease so I thought I'd try an experiment. I think
polygraphite is better than urethane since it's self lubricating.
poly__graphite__. 

I have no beef with my 1" dia. bar, but bigger could be better here. 

cheers,
cf

- -----Original Message-----
From: Andy Mikesell [mailto:andymikesell@mediaone.net]
Sent: Sunday, May 09, 1999 8:22 AM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Experiences with front end rebuilds?


I am looking into rebuilding the front end of my Delta
88 convertible.  Has anyone on the list had experience
with the "Polygraphite" replacement kits, and if so,
were there any drawbacks?

I have heard some vendors say that Polygraphite can
squeak, but it is  much more firm that the OEM rubber.

Also, does anyone on the list have experiences with
upgrading their sway bar on a full size car?   Just
curious if it is worth the extra $120.

- - Andy



- --
http://people.ne.mediaone.net/andymikesell

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 23:01:01 -0700 
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Experiences with front end rebuilds?

Forgot one thing: 
You may be better off using the factory front bar and spending $$ on the
rear sway bar. 

This was an enormous improvment in my 66 98 conv. 

Really flattened turns and makes the car feel not like a land barge. 

cf

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 23:04:01 -0700 
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: RE: Seat covers


Chris,
Did you find someone who actually makes these covers as factory? 

I've always thought I had to have an uphostery shop sew these up custom...

cf

- -----Original Message-----
From: Chris Rivier [mailto:crivier@hotmail.com]
Sent: Saturday, May 08, 1999 1:15 PM
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Seat covers


Hi all,

I would like to find OEM Seat Covers for my '66 Delta 88.
If not, I would like something pretty close.

I checked several places.  I just received a packet from Marathon Seat 
Covers. It is a good price $219 front and rear, but it has large and small 
quilted ribs not equally sized ribs.

TIA,



Chris Rivier
Austin,TX
'66 Delta 88   The BEAST under CONSTRUCTION.
'88 Festiva   ZIPPY 166K Lil' Parts Hauler.
WrEck PiX @ http://www2.bladeti.com/cars


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 23:13:46 -0700 
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: Good Starfire Weekend

Just shaking down the Starfire this weekend. Spent fun hours working out
little nitpicky problems like leaker oil pressure line, grounding the tach
properly and sorting the radio. Got the new front sway bar bushings in and
tight. I'm surprised what a difference this makes to the handling (if you
can call it that in a 66 big olds...). 

All of these seem to work now, so that's good. I have a funny intermittant
miss at idle that feels like a carb problem to me. Comments welcome. We're
looking at a late model front-fuel-inlet Qjet on a stock 455. The fuel line
running into it is only 5/16's, but that shouldn't harm the idle. 

Here are the symptoms
1) only happens when the car is warmed up
2) it's like one cylinder just cuts out, feels like it's not getting spark,
but I don't think that's it because you can't feel it miss in the higher RPM
ranges. Could be rev's covering a problem though. 
3) it misses enough to make the tach show an RPM drop.

I don't know much about qjets. Could this be the dreaded well plug problem?
I don't recall fixing this prior to installing the carb. I have a dim memory
that the goop which the (carb shop) rebuilder covered these plugs was
somewhat worn off. 

Look forward to your thoughts.

TIA
cf

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 01:23:30 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: Re: How much for a tach?

At 05:06 PM 5/6/99 -0600, you wrote:
>Well, not to be dick or anything, but shouldn't you worry about the carb
>before the timing?

THIS is a very good point.

I bought this car for $1000.  I have since put about that much on general
repairs, all of which I did myself, and none of which I knew how to do
before.  Some have been pretty simple, some have been - shall we say,
"challenging" (Hi Igor!) - but they have all been learning experiences.
This is one of the principle reasons I bought this car.

While the carb IS slightly messed up, the car still gets acceptable gas
mileage (for what it is, of course...), and runs pretty well (many
Austin-Houston & back treks, Austin - S. Padre and back, Austin - New
Orleans & back).  I really don't know for myself how messed up the carb is
until I learn how to fix it, and to do that I need a tach.  An added bonus
is I get to do the timing the way it's supposed to be done.

I could very easily get a new carb.  However, since I really don't want to
do a whole lot of piecemeal changes to the stock 307, it would have to be a
factory replacement carb (for the emission systems and such), and I don't
think I can justify the cost for a new carb that is smogged to hell.  Yes,
I know you can tune even a computer-controlled Quadrajet to perform
one-quarter of halfway decent, but this would still not solve the 1) fading
paint job 2) VERY troubling rythmic "thump-thump" when the engine's hot 3)
the will-soon-need-to-be-relpaced front end 4) the 160k+ on the clock
etcetera.

That motor needs a rebuild (way beyond just the carb), and the best I can
hope for is to kind of help it along until I can get the time, space, and
TIME again to get a new motor for it.  I know this is not the way I have to
do this, it's just the way I want to - but PLEASE feel free to tell me what
you think I'm doing wrong.  That's why I'm on the list.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88  RB                   (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 9 May 1999 23:28:56 -0700 
From: Chris Fair <cfair@FairIsaac.com>
Subject: 66 Starfire Option hunt

All,
A little wish list follows. Hoping you might help me chase down some fun
toys to kit out my 66 Starfire. Options are what I'm concerned with here and
most of these items are common to the 65 and 66 Starfire, 88 and 98. 

I'm in the market for the following parts in good to excellent condition

1) 65-66 big car remote mirror. This is different from the Cutlass remote
mirrors. 65-66 big cars only. This was a two cable affair which worked badly
at best. Fun though, with coaxing it can be made to work.

2) Cruise control. This was a particularly goofy two way reversible motor
which drove a rod connecting to the throttle. Found on 65-66 88/98/Starfires
with auto tranny's. I'm looking for the whole unit -- interior speed wheel
and control switch, motor & rods, special cruise to wheel/cruise to speedo
cables, & electrical harness. They killed this design after 66. My guess is
Olds found the more common vacuum setup a better design.

3) 66 Starfire rear chrome panel and/or taillight bezels. One model one year
only, looking for spares in case the car gets hit from behind. The panel I'm
looking for sits between the taillights and has an eggcrate pattern.

4) 65-66 Starfire AT console. This is different from the Cutlass console.
Mostly I'm looking for the excellent plastic parts, but a complete console
would be welcome. 

5) Autronic eye system. This is the extra-space-alien eyeball thingy that
sat on top of the dash looking way out of place. Basically it was an
automatic headlight dimmer. I think it was an advanced version of the system
C*ddil*c introduced in about 1957. 

6) Reverbatone Switch. I really only need the switch here, not the amp. One
of the leads on my switch broke and I've not sorted out how to wire it up to
work properly since. On the plus side, I recently acquired a 1966 Delco
Radio Service Manual which contains schematics for all the radios from that
year. 

Wouldn't it be great if I could actually get some of this stuff?

cheers,
cf

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End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1949
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