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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1952


oldsmobile-digest       Wednesday, May 12 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1952



Re: Delta 88 Vs. Camaro
Re: Delta 88 Vs. Camaro
74 Olds 98 for sale
Re: 69 H/O in July'99 MCR...it's SLOW!
Re: Carb thoughts: Question about the 81-85 A4 aluminum intake 
Re: Delta 88 Vs. Camaro
Reverb hook-up
442.com "FAQ" .Zip File Location?
Should we stay single (exhaust).
Re: Should we stay single (exhaust).
Who is KEM?????: HEI coil - Bad?
Re: Should we stay single (exhaust).
Re: helloooo & ramblings
Re: helloooo & ramblings
Re: helloooo & ramblings
Source for a AM FM radio for a '68 Cutlass
Re: reverb
Re: Who is KEM?????: HEI coil - Bad?
Re: helloooo & ramblings
RE: Source for a AM FM radio for a '68 Cutlass
Re: Experiences with front end rebuilds?
Re: DuPont ChromaBase
My 83 H/O is gone already
Engine ID
Re: 68 2 piece Rotors
Olds wanted
RE: Experiences with front end rebuilds?
Re: Newbie help with rearend
Re: Who is KEM?????: HEI coil - Bad?
442 Emblems
Re: Engine ID
Re: 442 Emblems
Exhaust manifold ID Help
Re: My 83 H/O is gone already
club
W-Machine Registry
need some help...
Re: Delta 88 Vs. Camaro
New ISP and e-mail address
Re: helloooo & ramblings
Re: Source for a AM FM radio for a '68 Cutlass
MOPAR blues (TIMING, please HELP)
Re: Delta 88 Vs. Camaro
Re: Experiences with front end rebuilds?
Re: Engine ID
Re: 442 Emblems
Re: 442 Emblems
Re: Exhaust manifold ID Help
Re: Delta 88 Vs. Camaro
Engine ID:still looking

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:56:24 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Delta 88 Vs. Camaro

> Wouldnt he be able to run gears like a 3;73 and still keep decent gas
milage
> with the overdrive tranny???

I am sure.  The OD tranny revs really low (I have OD and 2.56 in my '98) so
3.73s would make little difference in the city and a bit more on the
highway.  The good thing is that the highway ride would still be good and
low rev while he does 98% of his driving in the city.  3.73s and 3.06 first
gear would be one heck of a first gear start even for the 305.  Beats the
crap out of 2.48 and 3.23s for my car.  My car with th700 and 3.73s would be
great.

As for me getting the Camaro, I would just build a 350 slow block because it
would be cheap and I would primarily be interested in selling the thing
anyway.  Like you people said, it would fit nice and the glory (or lack of
it) would go the the Chevy not a Olds.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 12:57:51 EDT
From: Mrmagic442@aol.com
Subject: Re: Delta 88 Vs. Camaro

In a message dated 5/11/99 9:34:28 AM Pacific Daylight Time, 
Biscayne2d@aol.com writes:

<< Wouldnt he be able to run gears like a 3;73 and still keep decent gas 
milage 
 with the overdrive tranny???
  >>
       I have a 1985, 442 with a 100,000 plus 350 with nothing more than an 
edelbrock performer and Full roller rockers. I run the stock 3.73's and the 
200 4R trans. I can set my cruise at 62 mph and average 19.7 driving across 4 
passes from Western OR. to Idaho. I just installed a posi unit and am waiting 
for the ceramic coated headers and new cam and timing chain and fuel pump. I 
will install the spare heads I have here that are of a 1970 Rallye 350 that I 
broached out to take 2" valves and shaved back the exhaust side to seperate 
the two ports in the middle.I port matched the intake ports and mildly ported 
and polished the exhaust. Along with these changes I am hoping the cam ( 214 
intake 224 exhaust with 472 intake lift and 496 exhaust lift) and the new 
performer RPM let me bolt on another 75 horspower. The increased compression 
and better flow on both sides might be good for more but realisticaly I think 
that I will have a nice little 300+ horse 350 in this thing. Gas mileage is 
my worry though.. I will let you know what it yields in the mileage dept.

      Mrmagic442@aol.com

     69 H/O
     71 W-30
     84  442

------------------------------

Date: Fri, 07 May 1999 14:09:23 -0700
From: Grant Wilson <cessna180x@earthlink.net>
Subject: 74 Olds 98 for sale

I have a  fully loaded 74 Olds 98 four door hardtop with only 74,500
miles on it. All the sheet metal and trim are straight. Slight rust
bleed through in paint. Needs some work, but has show car potential.
Tires are great. I'm asking $1275. The car is in Long Beach CA. Call me
at 562 598 7167 or e-mail me at cessna180x@earthlink.net.

Grant Wilson

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 13:37:54 -0400
From: "Shokouhi, Mike" <ShokouhM@nasd.com>
Subject: Re: 69 H/O in July'99 MCR...it's SLOW!

I'm planning on taking my recently restored -all stock, a/c w/3.23 gears
'69 H/O to the Royal GTOs track day this Saturday at Maryland Int'l
Raceway (they 've also invited the local Olds and Buick clubs).  I doubt
it will go much faster than in the high 14s if lucky.  It has no
performance updates and the crappy gears. .  but hey the motor is fresh
- - and it'll look good going down the track.

If anyone else wants to go, just say your friends w/the Royal GTOs and
its, $20 buck to race from 9:00 to 2:00, or $10 to watch us take on the
goats!

Mike Shokouhi

you wrote:


Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 09:41:51 PDT
From: "Brent Pinkstaff" <fear_of_tomorrow@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: 69 H/O in July'99 MCR...it's SLOW!

Hey all,

I know that this thread is sort of dead at this point, but I came
across=20
something interesting this weekend that was exactly on this subject.

Ray Moriarty and I went on a parts run this weekend to South Carolina,
an=
d=20
Ray acquired an Oldsmobile performance book as part of the deal. In the
b=
ook=20
was a partial reprint of CARS magazine's test of a '69 H/O. The car was
a=
=20
non/air 3.91 rear car. They were able to get it through the quarter in
13=
.90=20
on stock tires. I personally find this to be a respectable time for a
car=
 of=20
this time period.

The car in the MCR I assume is an a/c car, which was NEVER a quarter
mile=
=20
performer. It, like the '68 H/O a/c and the '70-'71 W-30 a/c cars are
jus=
t=20
for looks in that department. The only H/O's that could produce
impressiv=
e=20
times in the quarter were the '68 non/air cars, and just like the
non-air=
=20
W-30s, are 'not intended for highway use'.


Brent Pinkstaff
'70 Cutlass S (Mr. Hankey, the Cutlass Poo)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 13:44:24 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Carb thoughts: Question about the 81-85 A4 aluminum intake 

In a message dated 99-05-10 15:08:31 EDT, you write:

<<  I'm going to head back over to the yard in about a week or so.  Do 1971
  Buicks and/or Pontiacs have Quadrajet carbs?  There's a 71 Skylark, and
  a couple of 71-2 Lemanses, so If they have quadrajets too, I can prolly
  get one off of one of them. >>


Well, as with lotsa models, 4v carb was sometimes an option, or a 2v was 
avail for less money.

Truth to tell.
Karl went Quad scrounging in a yard with a LOT of old cars.
And never saw so many 2G carbs in his life.

Your best bets are luxury models like the 1966 "98" that Karl found a 1973 
Caddy Quad in. A caddy is also a good bet. The hipo cars and carbs are 
getting scarce in yardes nowadays as there are getting to be more entusiasts 
than viable cars (largely due to the Oldsmagnet!).

And trucks came with the 2G as well, though the heavy duty engines had Quads.

OTOH, try Ebay. Karl has gotten 1 1973 (yah, again) and one (the very viable 
of his two 1972) carbs.

Or if you are willing to pay for a carb that it good to go out of the box, 
the B-word outlet claims to offer correct carbs for your application. 
Naturally, here especially, your mileage may vary. Karl has never purchased 
from the B-word place.

And Karl's 1972 Quadrajet brings him to a related subject, but a different 
posting.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 14:19:13 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Delta 88 Vs. Camaro

In a message dated 99-05-11 03:37:27 EDT, you write:

<< Like I said yesterday my friend got his '88 Camaro IROC-Z recently with a
 305, TH700, 2.73s, TBI, etc.  The 305 has very low milage on a rebuild and
 runs great.  I raced him with my '81 Delta (with a 455) today.  After
 absolutely disapearing I did not belive that he was even trying so >>

Um, at the cost of going out on a limb here and ending up looking silly all 
sprawled out on the ground bleeding and such.......

Karl opines that a serious point is being missed here.

You are talking about diff gears, tranny, displacement....

(and, by the way, it was mentioned to me by the Olds FAQ compiler that the 
"modern" cars have a tremendous final drive ratio when transmission gearing 
is accounted for)

What you do not mention is torque.

( we need to pass a hat here and get Igor on a proper Dyno.... )

Igor, the kind of power you are putting out outperforms even SOM's tired old 
long rod 425 and 2.73:1 (although the wheels chirp more with no muffler).

You cannot get hook with automatic transmission?

We'd enjoy that problem here!

And BTW, feel free to mention whatever shop rebuilt that Camera.

Oh, yah, is that lad willing to race strange Oldsmobilers for money?

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 11:24:19 -0700
From: BOYD DONALD R <drboyd@srpnet.com>
Subject: Reverb hook-up

How you hook it up depends on what car you've got, what model reverb etc.
It's basically an echo effect to give some sense of separation between the
front & rear speakers. Neat effect, but way outdated by stereo which started
in abou 66 @GM.

In my 66 big olds's there is a dash switch which allows you to turn it on
and off. This switch when on sends power and the audio signal to the
reverb/amp. I think the reverb/amp delays both front & rear, but it may be
just the rear audio signal to give the desired echo effect. The factory
units were made by Delco (no surprise). With you Motorola unit, I'd guess
there are similar audio/power interfaces, you'll just need to test 'em. If
there's a red wire/black wire, those are good guesses for power/ground.
Other colors should be audio signal, but I have nothing at all to confirm
this. 

I've just been digging into this since my unit doesn't work quite right and
I happened across a radio schematic book from GM for 1966. Just the perfect
thing for making these old devices work again. A great kitchen table some
night free project...

Hope this helps.

******Pretty good shootin'.  I'd look for six wires.  Red and Black, plus
two for input and two for output to the back speaker.  Probably have to use
it with your existing rear speaker wiring.  The spring thingy is actually a
mini-speaker on one end and a mini-microphone on the other.  That's what
gives the "boingy" sound.  If you yank the cover off, you ought to be able
to dope out which wires are input and which are output.  Should be aprety
fun toy with your AM (or FM) cranked to the local oldies station!  Remember,
this is going to be for mono only....

Good luck!  Enjoy!

Don
76 Cutlass Hurst T-Tops, 455

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 14:24:01 -0500
From: "David Brown" <dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu>
Subject: 442.com "FAQ" .Zip File Location?

Gary,
I just checked the arizona.edu ftp site, and the zip file location did
move. I clicked on "Olds FAQ is at.txt" and it brought up the following
address:

ftp://ftp.neurobio.arizona.edu/ftp/lists/olds/

That worked.

The zip file has not been updated yet. The nice weather has postponed
some of my work.

- --
David Brown         Mailto:dbrown@mh1.mcis.uchicago.edu
              Sneak a peek at 5.X FAQ at:
      www.ameritech.net/users/dlbrown/oldsfaq.htm
          Oldsmobile Mailing List FAQ 4.1 at:
http://www.442.com   OR   http://www.en.com/users/thall
Conserve bandwidth, get the zip file for local viewing:
           ftp://arl.arizona.edu/lists/olds

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 14:38:58 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Should we stay single (exhaust).

Yo!

In response to much recent inquiry, Soylent "Ocean Mist" (now oxidized 
original color) is an Oldsmobile. It's an Oldsmobile!

(well, just add Charleton Heston of the NRA shouting in the streets, much 
better)

Dropped muffler Friday night.
$45 in patch-up parts and pathetic muffler lasted 8 months or so from the 
date of the drop of the original muffler, so was now willing to do a proper 
job and go to duals if possible.

$125 to replace single exhaust.

Went step by step with a bloke who did know what he was talking about (and 
showed Karl) why it was semi-impossible to go full duals.

1) To connect to the left exh manifold is difficult and involves interference 
with starter and Pittman arm.

2) A crossover junction might be possible, but for a proper job a new 
crossover would be in order as this one is fair shape, but rusty with large 
dent from before new springs/shocks installed.

So, Mebbe $30 to re-patch using old patch muffler and an entire weekend of 
elbow grease.

$100 more for a proper job with single exhaust.

Yah, keep hearing of dual exhaust by welding to crossover.
Also keep hearing "done by a friend".

Can have proper single exhaust by Friday.
How much does this really affect the Q-jet project in non WOT conditions?
Should Karl keep looking for someone who thinks dualism possible for a 1965 
Dynamic 88 with the single exhaust exh mans?

Yeh, we know Mr. Chermac has repro W/Z mans, but hear that an "S" manifold 
was required for proper clearance on full-sized cars.

And yah, imagine future 65 "98" will be more a candidate for true duals with 
H crossover .....

So has anyone a garage to let in the Greater Chicago area?
Or nearby?
How about a feild?
Even a tarpaulin?

Anyone?

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 13:36:12 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Should we stay single (exhaust).

Karl, 

Can't you get a set of headers and put on the whole "original" dual 
setup? I know you are in a hurry with getting SOM back on the salty road. 
I would patch it and then aim at getting an original dual setup in the 
near future. I assume that single headers are different from duals...

Reasonable option?

Regards, George

- ---------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. (rusted DUALS with glasspacks...)
- ---------------------

On Tue, 11 May 1999 KarlAunan@aol.com wrote:

> Yo!
> 
> In response to much recent inquiry, Soylent "Ocean Mist" (now oxidized 
> original color) is an Oldsmobile. It's an Oldsmobile!
> 
> (well, just add Charleton Heston of the NRA shouting in the streets, much 
> better)
> 
> Dropped muffler Friday night.
> $45 in patch-up parts and pathetic muffler lasted 8 months or so from the 
> date of the drop of the original muffler, so was now willing to do a proper 
> job and go to duals if possible.
> 
> $125 to replace single exhaust.
> 
> Went step by step with a bloke who did know what he was talking about (and 
> showed Karl) why it was semi-impossible to go full duals.
> 
> 1) To connect to the left exh manifold is difficult and involves 
interference 
> with starter and Pittman arm.
> 
> 2) A crossover junction might be possible, but for a proper job a new 
> crossover would be in order as this one is fair shape, but rusty with large 
> dent from before new springs/shocks installed.
> 
> So, Mebbe $30 to re-patch using old patch muffler and an entire weekend of 
> elbow grease.
> 
> $100 more for a proper job with single exhaust.
> 
> Yah, keep hearing of dual exhaust by welding to crossover.
> Also keep hearing "done by a friend".
> 
> Can have proper single exhaust by Friday.
> How much does this really affect the Q-jet project in non WOT conditions?
> Should Karl keep looking for someone who thinks dualism possible for a 1965 
> Dynamic 88 with the single exhaust exh mans?
> 
> Yeh, we know Mr. Chermac has repro W/Z mans, but hear that an "S" manifold 
> was required for proper clearance on full-sized cars.
> 
> And yah, imagine future 65 "98" will be more a candidate for true duals with 
> H crossover .....
> 
> So has anyone a garage to let in the Greater Chicago area?
> Or nearby?
> How about a feild?
> Even a tarpaulin?
> 
> Anyone?
> 
> SOM
> 
> &KA
> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 15:00:39 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Who is KEM?????: HEI coil - Bad?

In a message dated 99-05-10 23:25:03 EDT, you write:

<< On that subject, make sure you've got a real GM module - some of the
 aftermarket (KEM, Standard, ect) don't seem to work as well as real GM.   >>

Uh, related to previous allusions to mechanical trouble.

Karl visited a local Forest City Auto Parts (alleged to be better on som 
counts than the local crummy parts place -more on them later) looking for a 
box of 30 weight Valvoline and a replacement Accel cap and rotor.

Found no boxes o' oil.

Asked for Accel, they not got.
Do carry KEM, is Karl interested?
"Well, can I see it?"
So bloke looks up info to match cap and rotor.
Goes into the back.
Comes back with two boxes. (cap and rotor sold separately)

Opens up the boxes.
They look VERY much like the genuine Accel parts.
Except the color is slightly off to avoid lawsuits.

Karl knows summat about modern plastics due to last job.
A ~lot~ goes into color-matching.
(saw those clear oil bottles before they hit the shelves....kewl!)

And, from recent fiddling with Accel cap and rotor, these seemed to have more 
"flash" than genuine accel.
But the rotor was the spitting image of the Accel cap that broke, right down 
to the exact size of the nub that was holding the electrode in place and 
broke off, allowing electrode to swivel to the side!

Parts guy kept after Karl about why he did not want.
Rankled something in Karl.

Was told that fella dint know anywhere near that carried Accel.
(but they could order it)
Karl drove 2 miles (just a jaunt really) back to the POS parts place.
And pulled the right part # off of a shelf.
And there were others of the same part # left.
Got a box of 30-weight at the same place.
Part of a Chain.
Murray's.

Now Karl NOT want to unintentionally flame anyone.

So ~who~ is KEM???

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 15:25:56 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Should we stay single (exhaust).

In a message dated 99-05-11 14:52:29 EDT, you write:

<< Can't you get a set of headers and put on the whole "original" dual  
setup? >>

Um, this requires a contortionist/masochist.

While alcohol does tend to relax one, it does not do so to the extent 
required here.

Nor, really, is there a header set that we know of to fit the fullsize 1965 
car.

And honestly, Karl got a good look at restrictions from under SOM, and as an 
aside, some substantial cleaning is necessary.

Had Karl dragged along the new digital camera, y'all would have a better idea 
of how tough a concept this is, for the most part, starter/steering or 
steering/oil filter are in the way.

Now, with the proper "S" (???) manifold .. mebbe.. anyone wanna do a deal wih 
Chermac to reproduce these? All ya gotta do is let the reproducer cut one in 
half!

Then we can all get 'em for less!

And a "proper" single exhaust job could be a good short term deal, if a dual 
job can be implemented with crossover intercept/blockoff later. Though 
muffler would suddenly be too big for those four cylinders......

In other news, a rear wheel cylinder or axle seal is leaking....DOH!!!

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 14:29:00 -0500
From: "Hitson, Roger" <HITSOR@mail.dmh.state.mo.us>
Subject: Re: helloooo & ramblings

Mostly I think you're right about the majority of people driving 75 out on
the highways. On Interstate 10 through FL, AL, & MS, at least the slow lane
is going about 75. People in the passing lane(s)  may be going anywhere from
45 to 90+.

Not really bad rapping any car, just seems like lots of lame old farts are
drivin' the Lincolns & Caddies, and neither operating nor parking them very
well.

roger
 ----------
From: Andrew C. Green
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Re: helloooo & ramblings
Date: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 11:50AM

<snipped>
When I drove from Chicago to Mount Rushmore in South Dakota and back again
in 1997, I was surprised to find that there _is_ a speed at which 99% of the
drivers will use if given half a chance: 75 mph. Beyond that I think a lot
of cars start to feel a little loosey-goosey.

In any event, in Illinois and Wisconsin the speed limit was 55 or 65,
depending on area, and everyone did 75. In Minnesota (I think) and South
Dakota the speed limit was 75, and everyone did... 75.

 -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 12:38:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: helloooo & ramblings

> When I drove from Chicago to Mount Rushmore in South
> Dakota and back again 
> in 1997, I was surprised to find that there _is_ a
> speed at which 99% of the 
> drivers will use if given half a chance: 75 mph.
> Beyond that I think a lot 
> of cars start to feel a little loosey-goosey.
> 
> In any event, in Illinois and Wisconsin the speed
> limit was 55 or 65, 
> depending on area, and everyone did 75. In Minnesota
> (I think) and South 
> Dakota the speed limit was 75, and everyone did...
> 75.
======================================
In Minnesota and North Dakota the speed limit is 70.
In South Dakota, I believe that the speed limit drops
down to 65. I drove from North Dakota into Springfield
Illinois in 10 hours. I did 75 all the way through. I
couldn't help it, I am use to ND's speed limits and
anything under it felt like I was crawling! Head on
over to Montana for some fun though! No speed limits
there. :-)
===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Free instant messaging and more at http://messenger.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 14:00:11 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: helloooo & ramblings

Rock Man wrote:
> 
> <snip>
> Head on
> over to Montana for some fun though! No speed limits
> there. :-)

Hurry, they have voted for speed limits (75 MPH I believe) on the roads that
used to be "Whatever speed is prudent."  They may even have implemented them
already.  This reminds me of a question posted on another newsgroup where the
person asked "A guy I know was doing 40 MPH around a corner marked max. 40 MPH
and he tipped his truck over, do you think he was going too fast?"  Duh, by
definition if you roll your truck you were doing too fast.  A well set up Olds
could zip through at twice the posted limit while a truck carrying swinging
beef could flip at almost half.  A guy in Montana got caught speeding twice and
although he was a professional race car driver in a ZR-1 Corvette he was still
convicted even though he was only doing 120 mph.

And on the same (earlier) topic, I read somewhere that the safest speed was the
80% percentile mark of the general traffic flow.  Therefore, you should be
passing 8 out of 10 cars and letting 2 out of 10 cars pass you.  Something like
that.

Of course if you can't do division in your head and count cars and drive at the
same time this would not help you :))
- -- 

Cliff "Can't listen to the radio and drive at the same time" Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 16:22:06 -0400 (EDT)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Source for a AM FM radio for a '68 Cutlass

Well, thanks to the knowledgeable and very helpful Mike Bloomer, the
electrical problems have so far been resolved.

Now it's time to replace that stock AM jammer with a good AM FM stereo. The
goal is to do this without cutting that dash. 

Anyone know of some good sources? I seen several advertise in Hemmings. It
looks like they all carry the same thing starting at $200.

I don't need a radio that says "Oldsmobile" or "442" or anything, just a
good radio that fits, as is.

Suggestions?

TIA.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 16:33:27 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: reverb

steve harris wrote:
> 
> lololololo :)  I am happy to see that I am not alone in my ignorance.  I
> think I remember reading about them.  thx
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
> To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Sent: Monday, May 10, 1999 10:26 PM
> Subject: Re: (no subject)
> 
> > steve harris wrote:
> > >
> > > Ahhhh....whats a reverb unit?
> >
> > Poor man's stereo.  The signal to the rear speaker was delayed, causing
> > an echo effect, like a concert hall.  Supposedly gave a stereo-like
> > effect.  I've never heard one.  There was a knob under the dash to

Snipping a bit here......

Well, folks, I had one and it worked great.  Actually sounded better
than the stereo readios out at the time.  Wish I still had it now, but
with four channels and separate adjustments for each channel.  The one I
had was not a factory job but one that I added.  Don't remember for
sure, but it might have been from Radio Shack.  Of course that was about
thirty years ago or so.  Now that I think about it, I might have it
stored over at my parents.  When they start cleaning everything out I'll
have to take a look.  I don't remember leaving it with the car when I
sold it and I installed so I could take it back out when I traded
eventually.  Interesting thoughts..............

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 16:48:41 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: Who is KEM?????: HEI coil - Bad?

> Karl visited a local Forest City Auto Parts 

Ah yes.... "Home of the pencil necked geek", they still have that slogan?

> So ~who~ is KEM???

KEM is one of many aftermarket parts makers.  I *KNOW* Forest City in
Syracuse, NY used to carry them, since that's where I found out how bad
their parts are....

Standard/Blue Streak is pretty good, but for modules & coil packs I tend
to go OEM.

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    -->   bob@tecmark.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 16:51:07 -0400
From: Don Sowers <dstaxpro@lex.infi.net>
Subject: Re: helloooo & ramblings

Hitson, Roger wrote:
> 
> Mostly I think you're right about the majority of people driving 75 out on
> the highways. On Interstate 10 through FL, AL, & MS, at least the slow lane
> is going about 75. People in the passing lane(s)  may be going anywhere from
> 45 to 90+.
> 
> Not really bad rapping any car, just seems like lots of lame old farts are
> drivin' the Lincolns & Caddies, and neither operating nor parking them very
> well.

Well, I generally agree with the 75 MPH thing.  Nice comfortable slower
type speed.  As for the old people driving a Lincoln, if you catch me in
the Mobile Office out on the interstate I don't think you would classify
me as slow because I don't get passed very often.  Didn't USED to get
passed at all unless they had blue lights on their car.  Not reckless,
just in a hurry.  Must be my old age that slowed me down to 80 or so. 
As for parking in the handicap spots, my motherinlaw has one of those
and we don't ever use it if I'm driving because someone else might need
the spot that doesn't have a "taxi driver".  You see, I only generally
would drive the Cutlass convertibles at a slower speed, because I WANTED
it to take me longer to get there.  More time in the ragtop with the top
down.  :)

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 15:51:00 -0500
From: "Hitson, Roger" <HITSOR@mail.dmh.state.mo.us>
Subject: RE: Source for a AM FM radio for a '68 Cutlass

Have you looked in J C Whitney's catalog?  I can't say as i know what they
have now but they did carry upgrade radios to fit in stock "old" car dashes.

roger
 ----------
From: C. Casteel
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: Source for a AM FM radio for a '68 Cutlass
Date: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 3:22PM

<snipped>
I don't need a radio that says "Oldsmobile" or "442" or anything, just a
good radio that fits, as is.

Suggestions?

TIA.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 14:10 
From: "John Carri" <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
Subject: Re: Experiences with front end rebuilds?

Andy Mikesell wrote:

>I am looking into rebuilding the front end of my Delta 88 
>convertible.  Has anyone on the list had experience with the 
>"Polygraphite" replacement kits, and if so, were there any drawbacks?
>
>I have heard some vendors say that Polygraphite can squeak, but it is 
>much more firm that the OEM rubber.
__________________________________

I just finished replacing the rotted rubber lower control arm bushings 
on my '72 Supreme with new polygraphite bushings manufactured by 
Energy Suspension this last weekend. I purchased just a set of 4 
bushings from Performance Suspension Components in Arizona (602) 
272-4085.

So far I have experienced no squeaking, a huge improvement over my 
stock rubber bushings, which did squeak!

The instructions that came with the poly bushings state that the 
bushings have to be dissassembled (press apart outer shell, poly, and 
inner shell) and all the mating surfaces coated with the special lube 
that comes with the kit - I think it's silicone grease of some kind - 
and the bushings re-assembled. I did this, it was a bit of a pain, and 
I can tell you from first-hand experience that soap, water, & 
handcleaner all fail miserably at removing silicone grease from your 
skin :) , but after installation I have no squeaks. 

One more interesting thing, I found my stock rubber bushings had much 
more binding than the aftermarked poly ones did! I remember a listee a 
while ago reported having poly bushings that bound so badly that he 
had no suspension travel at all - I can only guess that he somehow was 
given bad parts or the wrong parts for his car. Nothing, short of 
replacing the silicone grease with red Loctite, should make the 
bushings bind *that* badly!

- -John Carri
'72 Supreme
'73 RoadRunner

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 17:13:55 EDT
From: GT5726@aol.com
Subject: Re: DuPont ChromaBase

In a message dated 5/10/99 8:29:33 PM Central Daylight Time, 
PETTRIX@prodigy.net writes:

<< I was wondering if using DuPont ChromaBase (Base coat/clear coat) if it was
 alright to wet sand after 3 1/2 - 4 hours. The clear sat in the direct
 sunlight for those 3 1/2 - 4 hours. On the can it said that it could be wet
 sanded after force drying it at 140*F for 2 hours. Or at normal conditions
 it could be wet sanded 4-5 hours. The metal on the car gets pretty hot in
 the sun. 140* - 150* at the metal surface is common in the direct sun. 
 
 What would happen if you wet sanded before it dried completely? Or would it
 not even wet sand if it was not dry?
 Pettrix@prodigy.net >>
  I would not EVEN attemp to wet sand DuPont Chroma Clear without letting it 
thoroughly dry. "Air dry" is at least 8 hours. Then, I would definnately try 
in a inconspicuos spot first. I have had very good results letting the car 
set over night, then coming back to color sand with 1500 grit Maguaires 
wet/dry paper. Remember to let your sand paper soak in a bucket of water for 
a few hours before using it, and always keep plenty of water on the surface 
as a lubricant and to help "float" away the clear as it is sanded. This will 
make the sandpaper last longer and provide a much flatter surface to polish. 
A good trick , when wet sanding, is to sand an area then use a 3M squigie to 
quickly remove the water and loose clear for inspection. This will easily 
show any spots that haven't been sanded evenly and will exspose any "oarnge 
peel" that is still in the clear. be paitient, and do not sand MORE than is 
needed! Also, stay away from sharp body lines, as you can very quikly sand 
through the clear and into the color. 

Collyn

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 17:24:36 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: My 83 H/O is gone already

  That was quick, I really am going to miss her, she was one beautiful 
car...the original owner regreted selling her so we came to an agreement and 
she is back where she belongs....now I need a another car....any ideas..I 
need more of a driver , but has to be fast and an Olds...
Hot Rod Harry   <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/">HOT ROD HARRY'S 
OLDSMOBILES
</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 16:37:19 -0500
From: Mark <greenmm@earthlink.net>
Subject: Engine ID

Got a quick question.  I recently recieved my latest issue of "Car
Craft" and it showed me where to find my engine ID.  I will now quote
what it says about the ID #'s:

	"If you're searching for an Olds 455, here are the casting numbers to
look for :396021F ('68-71); 396021Fa ('72-'76); and 231788L (service
replacement)."

  My question is, is that correct?  I just found my ID and it is
396021F, no apparent 'a' is there.  Could it have rusted out?  I own a
'75 Olds Dela 88.

  Also, where can I find the 9-digit code that should match my VIN? 
"Under the number one cylinder" is not enough for me.  What else is near
it?  Where is it in relation to the spark plugs?  Anything else would
help.


Thanks,

Mark MacDonald
1975 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale Convertible (w/ a now CONFIRMED 455)
<http://home.earthlink.net/~greenmm>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 17:52:57 -0400
From: "Robert Schinkel" <docbob@caninet.com>
Subject: Re: 68 2 piece Rotors

In 68 cars with disc brakes had a 2 pieces rotor hub assembly.
These where only in 67 and 68 very rare and hard to locate.


Robert Schinkel   docbob@caninet.com
Niagara Falls,    Canada   905-357-4454




- ----------
> From: Jim68442@aol.com
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: 68 2 piece Rotors
> Date: Monday, May 10, 1999 3:59 PM
> 
> A 68 what?

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 18:16:57 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Olds wanted

  I want a driver that does not have to be beautiful but must be reliable and 
be very fast and an Olds , most likely a Cutlass from the years 64-72 and 
from the years 78-87.....so hear is your chance to sell your beast not beauty 
that runs awesome....Hot Rod Harry 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 22:53:01 GMT
From: "Chris Rivier" <crivier@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: Experiences with front end rebuilds?

Hi,

I had my '66 Delta 88 front end done in Dec. '98.  I went with PST, OEM 
rubber.  I had mixed feelings about Polygraphite for this car.  It is a big 
boat luxury car not a necessarily a performance beast.  The PST package did 
not replace everything.  I found the rest at my local parts store.  I also 
replaced the shocks up front, tires, and wheels all around.  It is 
definitely not a canyon carver, but the change in handling is like night and 
day.  I am very happy with the results.  Hmmm maybe a new steering box?

Just my $.02,

Chris Rivier
Austin,TX
'66 Delta 88   The BEAST under CONSTRUCTION.
'88 Festiva   ZIPPY 166K Lil' Parts Hauler.
WrEck PiX @ http://www2.bladeti.com/cars


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 17:56:46 -0500
From: Martin Thomas-WLTM07 <Thomas.Martin@motorola.com>
Subject: Re: Newbie help with rearend

Start off with a 73-77 A-Body car or 77-96 B/D-Body car rear end that is
8.5in rear gear, then go from there.  Make sure it is a 3 series carrier.
The 2.73 and lower gearing I believe was the "other" 2 series case, you want
3.08 and higher.  ( I know all 3.08 and higher support up to 4.11)  Look for
high altitude cars, they all had better gears. 

Ok, want a low buck bolt in?  

Try a 85 Cadillac 4.1L HT4100 V8 car!  It came with 3.42 gears, on all
versions, except high alt, and it had 3.73!  The Diesels had 2.73 to 2.93.


Can't beat that, pick up the whole car for $500 if you are lucky and drive
it home.  Ok, the catch, it is still 7.5in gear.  Like a 140 hp 4.1L V8
could hurt a 7.5 in rear end!  No tow package offered that I know of.

Thomas Martin
80 Turbo Trans AM 400 Pontiac Power!
85 Cutlass Supreme Rocket 350 CCC
91 Bonneville LE 3800 Buick Power!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 18:01:49 -0500
From: Wyatt <Wyatt@jobax.net>
Subject: Re: Who is KEM?????: HEI coil - Bad?

I don't know anything about KEM, but I do know a little about Accel.  I bought
one of their "Blueprint Series" distributors for my Olds way back in '84.  
After
replacing 3 Accel caps and rotors I went to NAPA and bought Echlin brand parts
and have not had any more cap and rotor breakage.  IMHO Accel makes junk for 
the
OEM replacements.  If you insist on buying Accel, buy two of everything so you
don't get stranded.

Dave Wyatt
70  4-4-2

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 20:24:02 -0400
From: "gjcouse" <gjcouse@francomm.com>
Subject: 442 Emblems

Would anyone venture to guess what a complete excellent condition set of
original GM "442" insignia numbers is worth? Total of 12 numbers all
independent metal twin post mounting. Both car sides numbers are 3/16"
solid, Nose and trunk are hollowed for lightness. The nose numbers are
slightly smaller (2" tall) than the other three sets (2+ 1/4" tall). And the
center "4" is bent to fit the car nose shape.

These letters appear new, never mounted. I tend to believe they are for a
'69 442 as the bag of emblems were with this '69 Cutlass I bought. Someone
started a restoration on this car about 11 years ago and stopped mid way.
The car was covered with canvas and stored. I believe who ever, was
intending to create a 442 clone. I will restore it to original Cutlass
status. I'm curious as to what this complete set of excellent condition, GM
bagged, emblems might be worth.  Gary....

- -----Regards,

Gary J. Couse
Couse Custom's

ICQ# 5209322
gjcouse@francomm.com
gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com

Custom Conversion Prototype:
CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com

- -------------------------------------------------------------------
Like FREE Money? Just go to
http://alladvantage.com/go.asp?refid=AQE115
Members are paid for their own Web browsing
($.50 per Hour) and for referrals. Please tell all
of your friends about this program as possible.
- -------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 20:42:41 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Engine ID

"If you're searching for an Olds 455, here are the casting numbers to
look for :396021F ('68-71); 396021Fa ('72-'76); and 231788L (service
replacement)."

  My question is, is that correct?  I just found my ID and it is
396021F, no apparent 'a' is there.  Could it have rusted out?  I own a
'75 Olds Dela 88.

  Also, where can I find the 9-digit code that should match my VIN?
__________

That's correct to the best of my knowledge.  The "A" is smaller than the other
letters, so be sure all the crud is scraped away.  The 9 digit "VIN derivative"
number is stamped on a machined pad located on the driver's side of the block,
below the number one exhaust port on the head.  The pad is right at the top of
the block, just below the cylinder head, and may be obstructed by the PS 
bracket
or the alternator bracket if you have A/C.  Find the No. 1 spark plug, then 
look
down the side of the block below that area.  Again, it may be covered with
spooge and require scraping to see.

The VIN derivative will have the format of 35Mxxxxxx where:

3 = Oldsmobile division
5 = year (5 = 1975, 2 = 1972, 9 = 1969)  Note that a number other than 5 would
indicate a replacement motor
M = manufacturing plant (M = Lansing, X = Kansas City, etc)
xxxxxx = last six digits of VIN.  Again, if this doesn't match the last six
digits of your car's VIN, it's a replacement motor.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 20:45:00 EDT
From: James244@aol.com
Subject: Re: 442 Emblems

Gary...the Emblems should fit 69-70 cars on all 4 sides of the car. They will 
also fit 71-71 everywhere except for the fron grilles. If you have a Year One 
cataloge it will give you an idea what the value is for the set.
Regards
James Newton
69 442 4spd
86 442

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 20:49:44 EDT
From: James244@aol.com
Subject: Exhaust manifold ID Help

I just got a manifold and not sure what the application is. It is for the LH 
side and the part # is 412287, it also has an X on it. Thanks for any help!
James

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 20:55:07 EDT
From: HURSTOLDZ@aol.com
Subject: Re: My 83 H/O is gone already

Hey Harry


How about my Rust Free  61,000 original mile 62 Olds Starfire???

She is fast   she is an Olds      She has the original paint still and the 
interior is MINT!!!

Let me know

:)

------------------------------

Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 18:16:40 -0700
From: lmp <lmp@cyberis.net>
Subject: club

We own a Oldsmobile and are trying to locate the club closes to our
area.  We live in Eugene, OR.  (The Willamette Valley)

Any help.  Thank you.

Linda Perkins

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 21:36:16 EDT
From: DROLDS350@aol.com
Subject: W-Machine Registry

Hey Kurt,
	Yes, I will include those also. Please send the info along! If you 
haven't sent in your info, please do.
Thanks,
Jim McKeague

Are you including W-29, W-33, W-34?  (66-72 exclude W-41)
_______
> Hello,
> 	If anyone remembers, I tried getting a registry for W-Machines about 
> a year ago. I sent something to the list asking for anyone with a 66-72 
> W-Machine to e-mail me with info. I am going to try this again with a new

> computer and database. 
> 	I had about 20 cars before my computer broke and I lost all the 
> information. If you own a 66-72 Olds W-Machine please e-mail me with the 
> following info:
> Car	Year	Color	Transmission	Owner	
Interior Color	Stripe Color	
> Rear Axle	Vin		Engine			
> Please e-mail me this info to: <A 
> HREF="mailto:drolds350@aol.com">drolds350@aol.com
>  with the subject, W-Machines.
> 	Anyone who had e-mailed me before with info, if you could please 
> resend it to me I would greatly appreciate it!
> Thanks!
> Jim McKeague
> 1970 Rally 350
> 1970 Cutlass W-31

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 21:37:57 EDT
From: Jwsherma@aol.com
Subject: need some help...

I am looking at a 1959 Olds 98 Holiday Sports Sedan (4-door hardtop.)  It has 
47,000 original miles, and has had one repaint in the original color.  It has 
new brakes and a new fuel pump; the car has had 4 owners, all local.  The 
engine has never been opened; the interior is original and shows normal wear. 
 The glass is good, except for a small crack in the passenger side window.  
There are no signs of rust that I can see; the car has been well-cared for, 
but is far from perfect.  All the chrome is there, but only the bumpers have 
been re-done; the rest could use some restoration.  The owner is asking 
$5,000 for the car.  He says it was appraised a year ago at $6,000.  My 
information says a #3 car like this should be worth around $3625.  My 
questions...what should I look for specifically when I drive this car?  Where 
should I look for signs of rust in the floors, trunk, etc.?  I am a car buff, 
but need some expert Olds advice, here...I'm thinking $4500 would be a fair 
offer, but I would like some specific pointers on this particular model if I 
can get them...any help would be appreciated.  Contact me at 
jwsherma@aol.com.  Thanks!

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 22:22:18 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Delta 88 Vs. Camaro

ok here is a test of both cars.  You need to do a 45 mph kick down race.
Both cars get to 45 mph and mash it to the floor!  He who accelerates
fastest wins.   PS  when you get busted.  You didnt hear this from me!
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Igor Todorovic <igor455@home.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 12:56 PM
Subject: Re: Delta 88 Vs. Camaro


> > Wouldnt he be able to run gears like a 3;73 and still keep decent gas
> milage
> > with the overdrive tranny???
>
> I am sure.  The OD tranny revs really low (I have OD and 2.56 in my '98)
so
> 3.73s would make little difference in the city and a bit more on the
> highway.  The good thing is that the highway ride would still be good and
> low rev while he does 98% of his driving in the city.  3.73s and 3.06
first
> gear would be one heck of a first gear start even for the 305.  Beats the
> crap out of 2.48 and 3.23s for my car.  My car with th700 and 3.73s would
be
> great.
>
> As for me getting the Camaro, I would just build a 350 slow block because
it
> would be cheap and I would primarily be interested in selling the thing
> anyway.  Like you people said, it would fit nice and the glory (or lack of
> it) would go the the Chevy not a Olds.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 22:19:01 -0400
From: "Randy Geisel" <Rocket455@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: New ISP and e-mail address

Just wanted to let all my list friends know that I've ditched Prodigy and
have changed to AT&T. After tonight my Prodigy e-mail address will no longer
work. My new addresses are Rocket455@worldnet.att.net and
Oldsmaniac@worldnet.att.net  Take your pick, but please change your address
books.

Olds content: The 72 Hurst/Olds (sunroof) parts car will be coming to it's
new home sometime in the next 6 weeks (by June 20th). If you need anything
off it, let me know. I'm keeping the drivetrain, gauges and 1 rim, the rest
is up for grabs.

Randy Geisel

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 22:30:38 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: helloooo & ramblings

Be forewarned the law is "any prudent speed under 85mph"
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 10:00 AM
Subject: Re: helloooo & ramblings


>
> Rock Man wrote:
> >
> > <snip>
> > Head on
> > over to Montana for some fun though! No speed limits
> > there. :-)
>
> Hurry, they have voted for speed limits (75 MPH I believe) on the roads
that
> used to be "Whatever speed is prudent."  They may even have implemented
them
> already.  This reminds me of a question posted on another newsgroup where
the
> person asked "A guy I know was doing 40 MPH around a corner marked max. 40
MPH
> and he tipped his truck over, do you think he was going too fast?"  Duh,
by
> definition if you roll your truck you were doing too fast.  A well set up
Olds
> could zip through at twice the posted limit while a truck carrying
swinging
> beef could flip at almost half.  A guy in Montana got caught speeding
twice and
> although he was a professional race car driver in a ZR-1 Corvette he was
still
> convicted even though he was only doing 120 mph.
>
> And on the same (earlier) topic, I read somewhere that the safest speed
was the
> 80% percentile mark of the general traffic flow.  Therefore, you should be
> passing 8 out of 10 cars and letting 2 out of 10 cars pass you.  Something
like
> that.
>
> Of course if you can't do division in your head and count cars and drive
at the
> same time this would not help you :))
> --
>
> Cliff "Can't listen to the radio and drive at the same time" Simpson
> mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
> '69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
> http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 22:31:57 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Source for a AM FM radio for a '68 Cutlass

you can try year one,  but the prices for the conversion is still high.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: C. Casteel <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 4:22 PM
Subject: Source for a AM FM radio for a '68 Cutlass


> Well, thanks to the knowledgeable and very helpful Mike Bloomer, the
> electrical problems have so far been resolved.
>
> Now it's time to replace that stock AM jammer with a good AM FM stereo.
The
> goal is to do this without cutting that dash.
>
> Anyone know of some good sources? I seen several advertise in Hemmings. It
> looks like they all carry the same thing starting at $200.
>
> I don't need a radio that says "Oldsmobile" or "442" or anything, just a
> good radio that fits, as is.
>
> Suggestions?
>
> TIA.
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 20:34:06 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: MOPAR blues (TIMING, please HELP)

I know, I know it is not an Olds.  But I have a serious problem with my '81
Mopar van.  The timing seems to be out 100,000 degrees.  There is no sticker
or anything under the hood or anywhere so I have no idea what to set it to.
PLEASE Help.  I does not have to run great just not detonate and stall.
What should I set it to and at what RPM.  Thanks a lot.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 20:39:49 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: Re: Delta 88 Vs. Camaro

You need to do a 45 mph kick down race.
> Both cars get to 45 mph and mash it to the floor!  He who accelerates
> fastest wins.

We did that and the same thing happend.  I kicked his but.  We both punch it
and you see the Delta go 1 car length in one second and then by 100 MPH
about three to four car lenghts.  We quit at 100 MPH.  The top speed on my
car is about 120 MPH (redline limited, I back off then).  If (or should I
say when) I put my 2.41 gears back in the Delta then he will have no hope at
45 MPH +.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 22:47:25 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Experiences with front end rebuilds?

Binding is a problem when you torque the bushings in place before placing
full vehical weight on them.   PST is a good choice as they come with new
metal casings in most applications.  I place the bushings in the freezer
overnight to help ease insertion.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: John Carri <jcarri@alesis1.usa.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 2:10 PM
Subject: Re: Experiences with front end rebuilds?


> Andy Mikesell wrote:
>
> >I am looking into rebuilding the front end of my Delta 88
> >convertible.  Has anyone on the list had experience with the
> >"Polygraphite" replacement kits, and if so, were there any drawbacks?
> >
> >I have heard some vendors say that Polygraphite can squeak, but it is
> >much more firm that the OEM rubber.
> __________________________________
>
> I just finished replacing the rotted rubber lower control arm bushings
> on my '72 Supreme with new polygraphite bushings manufactured by
> Energy Suspension this last weekend. I purchased just a set of 4
> bushings from Performance Suspension Components in Arizona (602)
> 272-4085.
>
> So far I have experienced no squeaking, a huge improvement over my
> stock rubber bushings, which did squeak!
>
> The instructions that came with the poly bushings state that the
> bushings have to be dissassembled (press apart outer shell, poly, and
> inner shell) and all the mating surfaces coated with the special lube
> that comes with the kit - I think it's silicone grease of some kind -
> and the bushings re-assembled. I did this, it was a bit of a pain, and
> I can tell you from first-hand experience that soap, water, &
> handcleaner all fail miserably at removing silicone grease from your
> skin :) , but after installation I have no squeaks.
>
> One more interesting thing, I found my stock rubber bushings had much
> more binding than the aftermarked poly ones did! I remember a listee a
> while ago reported having poly bushings that bound so badly that he
> had no suspension travel at all - I can only guess that he somehow was
> given bad parts or the wrong parts for his car. Nothing, short of
> replacing the silicone grease with red Loctite, should make the
> bushings bind *that* badly!
>
> -John Carri
> '72 Supreme
> '73 RoadRunner
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 22:59:24 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Engine ID

yes the numbers are correct.  I dont know about the service replacement
number tho.  My 455 big block has the same number as yours,  and no the 'a'
did not rust off.  It just ain't there.  The motor could be out of an older
model car.  The vin number only appears in the one place.  The drivers side,
front, by the number one cylinder.  This number should match the vin number.
However the number may not be there at all.  The block could have been
decked.  Also,  a dealer could have replaced the motor under warrenty and
not restamped the number in.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Mark <greenmm@earthlink.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 5:37 PM
Subject: Engine ID


> Got a quick question.  I recently recieved my latest issue of "Car
> Craft" and it showed me where to find my engine ID.  I will now quote
> what it says about the ID #'s:
>
> "If you're searching for an Olds 455, here are the casting numbers to
> look for :396021F ('68-71); 396021Fa ('72-'76); and 231788L (service
> replacement)."
>
>   My question is, is that correct?  I just found my ID and it is
> 396021F, no apparent 'a' is there.  Could it have rusted out?  I own a
> '75 Olds Dela 88.
>
>   Also, where can I find the 9-digit code that should match my VIN?
> "Under the number one cylinder" is not enough for me.  What else is near
> it?  Where is it in relation to the spark plugs?  Anything else would
> help.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark MacDonald
> 1975 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royale Convertible (w/ a now CONFIRMED 455)
> <http://home.earthlink.net/~greenmm>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 23:04:07 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: 442 Emblems

look in year one and see how much they want for the repros.  Then take there
price and beat it or raise it;  If the parts are original.
- ----- Original Message -----
From: gjcouse <gjcouse@francomm.com>
To: Olds Classic <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 8:24 PM
Subject: 442 Emblems


> Would anyone venture to guess what a complete excellent condition set of
> original GM "442" insignia numbers is worth? Total of 12 numbers all
> independent metal twin post mounting. Both car sides numbers are 3/16"
> solid, Nose and trunk are hollowed for lightness. The nose numbers are
> slightly smaller (2" tall) than the other three sets (2+ 1/4" tall). And
the
> center "4" is bent to fit the car nose shape.
>
> These letters appear new, never mounted. I tend to believe they are for a
> '69 442 as the bag of emblems were with this '69 Cutlass I bought. Someone
> started a restoration on this car about 11 years ago and stopped mid way.
> The car was covered with canvas and stored. I believe who ever, was
> intending to create a 442 clone. I will restore it to original Cutlass
> status. I'm curious as to what this complete set of excellent condition,
GM
> bagged, emblems might be worth.  Gary....
>
> -----Regards,
>
> Gary J. Couse
> Couse Custom's
>
> ICQ# 5209322
> gjcouse@francomm.com
> gjcouse@cc-iroc-ss.com
>
> Custom Conversion Prototype:
> CC-IROC-SS-#001 =  "Quincy"
> http://www.CC-IROC-SS.com
>
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
> Like FREE Money? Just go to
> http://alladvantage.com/go.asp?refid=AQE115
> Members are paid for their own Web browsing
> ($.50 per Hour) and for referrals. Please tell all
> of your friends about this program as possible.
> -------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 23:06:45 EDT
From: DKlauber@aol.com
Subject: Re: 442 Emblems

May also want to check out sold items on ebay.  I remember a couple of weeks 
ago someone was selling the individual numbers, but didn't see what they 
ended up going for.  David OCA 30416
70 442 W-30 Conv

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 23:14:57 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust manifold ID Help

I do not remember for sure,  but I think that is a rare casting.  Hold onto
it.  I believe it is to an original 442 high flow exhaust.  I cannot find
the documentation to prove it, but I am
looking.......................According to what I have here it says the 'x'
casting is for the 65-68 all 442,w-30,  and hurst olds.  The number is
different tho it is 389269.  I do not have any other listings for the 'x'
casting.
meso@pamlico.net
Steve
North Carolina
ICQ#26466860
http://members.xoom.com/DR_OLDS/442index.html
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <James244@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 8:49 PM
Subject: Exhaust manifold ID Help


> I just got a manifold and not sure what the application is. It is for the
LH
> side and the part # is 412287, it also has an X on it. Thanks for any
help!
> James
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 23:17:43 -0400
From: "steve harris" <meso@pamlico.net>
Subject: Re: Delta 88 Vs. Camaro

hehehehehehehehehe:)  Do ya love the POWER!  OR WHAT!
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Igor Todorovic <igor455@home.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 10:39 PM
Subject: Re: Delta 88 Vs. Camaro


>
> You need to do a 45 mph kick down race.
> > Both cars get to 45 mph and mash it to the floor!  He who accelerates
> > fastest wins.
>
> We did that and the same thing happend.  I kicked his but.  We both punch
it
> and you see the Delta go 1 car length in one second and then by 100 MPH
> about three to four car lenghts.  We quit at 100 MPH.  The top speed on my
> car is about 120 MPH (redline limited, I back off then).  If (or should I
> say when) I put my 2.41 gears back in the Delta then he will have no hope
at
> 45 MPH +.
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 22:26:22 -0500
From: Mark <greenmm@earthlink.net>
Subject: Engine ID:still looking

Yes, the alternator bracket is in that area.  I cannot find the VIN #. 
Would it be easier to find by looking under the car since the bracket is
there?

The only thing around the #1 spark plug is a "J" to the left on the very
front of the engine.  What is that for?

Any other help?








Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM wrote:
> 
> "If you're searching for an Olds 455, here are the casting numbers to
> look for :396021F ('68-71); 396021Fa ('72-'76); and 231788L (service
> replacement)."
> 
>   My question is, is that correct?  I just found my ID and it is
> 396021F, no apparent 'a' is there.  Could it have rusted out?  I own a
> '75 Olds Dela 88.
> 
>   Also, where can I find the 9-digit code that should match my VIN?
> __________
> 
> That's correct to the best of my knowledge.  The "A" is smaller than the 
other
> letters, so be sure all the crud is scraped away.  The 9 digit "VIN 
derivative"
> number is stamped on a machined pad located on the driver's side of the 
block,
> below the number one exhaust port on the head.  The pad is right at the top 
of
> the block, just below the cylinder head, and may be obstructed by the PS 
bracket
> or the alternator bracket if you have A/C.  Find the No. 1 spark plug, then 
look
> down the side of the block below that area.  Again, it may be covered with
> spooge and require scraping to see.
> 
> The VIN derivative will have the format of 35Mxxxxxx where:
> 
> 3 = Oldsmobile division
> 5 = year (5 = 1975, 2 = 1972, 9 = 1969)  Note that a number other than 5 
would
> indicate a replacement motor
> M = manufacturing plant (M = Lansing, X = Kansas City, etc)
> xxxxxx = last six digits of VIN.  Again, if this doesn't match the last six
> digits of your car's VIN, it's a replacement motor.
> 
> Joe Padavano
> padavano.joe@orbital.com
> 
> 66 442
> 68 W-30
> 69 H/O
> 69 442
> 70 W-30

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1952
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