Please respond to oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
To:	oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca @ INTERNET
cc:	 
Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1938


oldsmobile-digest         Monday, May 3 1999         Volume 01 : Number 1938



Re: Smoking Alternator??
'71 Supreme Trim and Paint 
center caps
[Fwd: 1969 Bumper]
L-rods
Tire smoke
Re: trim and bumper questions(was Minnesota body shop)
Re: Cutlass Brakes (fwd)
Re: Sticky Sport Steering Wheel
Re: '71 Supreme Trim and Paint 
HELP: Vibrations?
Re: 1971 442 W30
Re: Sticky Sport Steering Wheel
Re: 1971 442 W30
Re: trim and bumper questions(was Minnesota body shop)
Re: Cutlass Brakes (fwd)
Vibrations at high speeds?
Re: [Fwd: 1969 Bumper]
Re: trim and bumper questions(was Minnesota body shop)
Exhaust recommendations on a 72 Cutlass
Re: Vibrations at high speeds?
Re: Sticky Sport Steering Wheel
Re: Valve to piston clearance.
Re: [Fwd: 1969 Bumper]
Re: Exhaust recommendations on a 72 Cutlass
RE: Exhaust recommendations on a 72 Cutlass
Re: Exhaust recommendations on a 72 Cutlass
Re: Vibrations at high speeds?
Re: '71 Supreme Trim and Paint
Re: steering column info
Wheel bolt circle question 
Re: Wheel bolt circle question 
Re: Car Game
Re: Parking lights, long (was: Brake and tail lights problem '68 Cutlass)
Re: Parking lights, long (was: Brake and tail lights problem '68 Cutlass)
Re: Wheel bolt circle question
Re: Wheel bolt circle question
Re: Exhaust recommendations on a 72 Cutlass
Re: Olds Books
Re: Exhaust recommendations on a 72 Cutlass
Re: Wheel bolt circle question 
Re: Exhaust recommendations on a 72 Cutlass
http://www.usapartssupply.com/
Re: wrist pin screws engine
Re: PH-11 or PH-25 in ANY Olds?
Re: '68 4-4-2 on MCC
frame off
Re: Rim & Tire Choices??
Re: PH-11 or PH-25 in ANY Olds?
parting problems & frame off
Body and frame shops
Re: parting problems & frame off
Re: Rim & Tire Choices??

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 02:00:11 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: Smoking Alternator??

> 1. Would the voltage regulator going bad cause the alternator have too mant
> volts and burn itself out?

Yes, since the regulator was full-fielding the alternator.  It can only
run so long at 100% output before something's gonna go.

> 2. Why would the external voltage regulator go bad when it was 1 week old
> and was a Borg /Worner unit?

DOA?  If it was the mechanical type (vibrator) then probably one of the
contacts welded shut.  Another possibility is a short somewhere in the
electrical system.   

Check out my internal conversion notes:

http://www.liii.com/~ravalent/convert/conv.htm

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    --> ravalent@liii.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 02:21:51 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: '71 Supreme Trim and Paint 

I'm finally sending my '71 CS convertible to the body shop tomorrow -
spent the whole weekend stripping all the chrome, ect.  I'm already
starting to think about putting it back together, but some parts need some
touchup first.  It's been so long since it was together, I've forgotten
what goes where and what some stuff looks like.

1.  Fender scripts - on a Supreme, the only script is the "Cutlass"
script?

2.  Grilles - this is not a 442, just a Supreme.   The recesses are
painted black, but what is everything else?  It's not just natural
pot metal.   What color was used?  "Argent Silver"?

3.  Body Molding - originally the doors had little studs which held the
plastic clips.   The studs are long gone, so what do you use in place?

4.  Was any kind of gasket used between the rear 1/4 panel and the
extension?

5.  Can pot metal be re-chromed?

Two other questions:

1.  I need several pieces of the body moldings.   Anyone have a source for
them, or have any for sale?  I've tried 442.com and haven't found
anything.

2.  Someone on the list (from Texas, I thing) had been doing rechroming
for a good price... I think it was going over the border.  ;^>  Are they
still around?

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                     -->  bob@tecmark.com <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

  

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 06:56:00 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: center caps

List,

        This Spring, as you go parting, keep your
eyes open for vendors that have used/new custom
wheels. I am always looking for Cragar Pro Tech
center caps - plastic disc 6" across ......


Thanks for your help
The General     :o{)}

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 08:15:50 +0000
From: gal1 <gal1@MNSi.Net>
Subject: [Fwd: 1969 Bumper]

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gal1 wrote:

> We are still looking for a good core,straight, front bumper for our 1969
> 442 W30.
> If anyone has such a thing please email us at gal1@mnsi.net.
> Thanks     George Lesperance

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Message-ID: <3725ACEC.300C29E1@mnsi.net>
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 1999 12:26:20 +0000
From: gal1 <gal1@mnsi.net>
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To: Oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
Subject: 1969 Bumper
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
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We are still looking for a good core,straight, front bumper for our 1969
442 W30.
If anyone has such a thing please email us at gal1@mnsi.net.
Thanks     George Lesperance


- --------------7DEC56642621C8728435A5F6--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 08:22:25 -0400 
From: "Meyer, Erich" <EMeyer@mdsctl.com>
Subject: L-rods

Hello list I need some help. My L-Rods are not working properly (mechanism
broken). My friend has lent me his spare and I wanted to know if anyone
knows where I can send mine for repair or if a list member has one for sale.



Erich 84 H/O (now powered by Olds 350, 400HP)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 08:29:43 -0400 
From: "Meyer, Erich" <EMeyer@mdsctl.com>
Subject: Tire smoke

I need some help.
Since I put the Olds 350 into my 84 Hurst Olds. I spin my tires at speed
(60Km) and if not careful from the start too.
I've been told to change my ladders (?) on my diff. Is this correct and
what, how and would this help with my problem?
Is this something I could do and what would be the cost?



Erich 84 H\O (powered by Olds 350, 400HP)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 08:15:11 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: trim and bumper questions(was Minnesota body shop)

the proper tool for the reinstall of the roofrail moulding is very hard to
get hold of so in lieu of "proper" we will be using the improper tool for
this evolution a rubber mallet and patience line it up from the back end
then tap it in place with the mallet if it doesnt readily go in place stop
realign it and try again

the hood rear edge moulding is simply a matter of tapping it off the edge of
the hood with a hammer usually a body hammer taking care to move evenly down
the length so as to avoid bending it then using the mallet again to
reinstall it

- ----- Original Message -----
From: tj <tj1852@worldnet.att.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, May 02, 1999 8:53 PM
Subject: trim and bumper questions(was Minnesota body shop)


> Thanks to everyone who provided advice to my questions about finding an
> autobody shop in Minnesota to paint my '71 cutlass S.  I finally did
> find an old friend of my Dad's to do the work for me.  He's sort of an
> old-timer; hopefully he will do a good job
>
> So now I am in the process of removing the trim, and I have a couple of
> questions about it.  My car did not originally come with bright metal
> roof rail moldings, but I have located a set, and would like to install
> them when the paint job is done;  is there a trick to this?  What is the
> best tool to do this?  Also, how do I remove, and reinstall, the bright
> molding at the rear of the hood?  the two small pieces on the back of
> the fenders are held on with nuts, but the hood strip appears to be
> pressed together(?)
>
> Finally, most sales literature that I have seen shows a solid front
> bumper, and yet my car has rectangular cutouts.  Does anyone know if
> solid front bumpers exist, or did they only appear for pre-production
> publicity shots?  I really like the look of the solid bumper better, and
> had planned on having mine rechromed anyway.
>
> Thanks for your help--you guys and gals are great!
>
> Tim
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 06:16:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rock Man <rockman20@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Cutlass Brakes (fwd)

If anybody has an answer for this one, I would like to
know also. My 86 Honda Accord is the same way. I got
the pedal "firmer" then what it was by bleeding, but
it still has a tough time under panic conditions. It's
almost like a brake fade problem, but I wouldn't think
they should get that hot in a matter of a split
second.

- --- Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca> wrote:
> This came to me personally; forwarding.
> 
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth,
> Nova Scotia, Canada
> 
> ---------- Forwarded message ----------
> From: "Bender, Curt" <cbender@siebeappliance.com>
> Subject: Cutlass Brakes
> 
> I have a '95 Olds Cutlass Convertible and the
> mechanic is having a hard time
> making the pedal hard. He's replaced the rear pads
> and claims to have bled
> the system twice. Still no pedal. As a matter of
> fact the car has a very
> hard time stopping under "panic" situations. Can you
> offer some suggestions?
> 
> Curt Bender
> Project Engineer
> Commercial Cooking Group
> INVENSYS Appliance Controls CRSD
> Holland, MI     USA
> cbender@siebeappliance.com
>  
> 
> 

===
Rock-Man's Page http://www.angelfire.com/nd/RockMan
rockman20@yahoo.com
1986 Honda Accord DX
1983 Honda Big Red 3-wheeler
1981 John Deer Snowmobile
197? Massey Ferguson Snowmobile
1969 Olds Cutlass "S"
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 08:19:47 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: Sticky Sport Steering Wheel

I have used oderless mineral spirits to good effect wet a rag with the
spirits wipe down the wheel rim twice this will remove the vinyl resin and
if done many times it will dry out the vinyl then coat it with armorall a
good thick coat and dont forget to buff off the greasy finish then cover the
wheel with a towel so the texas sun doesnt melt the wheel again also
allowing the car to vent when parked in the sun also helps prevent this just
a half inch will allow the hot air to vent those sunshields also do wonders
when parking the car for extended periods.....KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: texas442 <texas442@flash.net>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, May 02, 1999 9:12 PM
Subject: Sticky Sport Steering Wheel


> Those of you who have a 4-spoke steering wheel may have experienced the
> same problem.  The steering wheels gets very sticky as though it is
> smothered in glue.  What causes this?, and are there any tricks to
> illuminate this?  Thanks.
>
> Ali Zalzala
> email:  texas442@flash.net
> http://www.flash.net/~texas442
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 09:50:53 EDT
From: W30442CS@aol.com
Subject: Re: '71 Supreme Trim and Paint 

In a message dated 5/3/99 2:23:12 AM Eastern Daylight Time, ravalent@liii.com 
writes:

<< 
 1.  I need several pieces of the body moldings.   Anyone have a source for
 them, or have any for sale?  I've tried 442.com and haven't found
 anything.
  >>
i have some body mouldings , what did you need?    steven, w30442cs@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 09:21:20 -0500
From: "David Popadic" <davepop@execpc.com>
Subject: HELP: Vibrations?

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

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Let me give you a little background on the car and then the question.

I bought a 67 Cutlass Convertible a year ago.  It had 255 60 15 on =
Corvette rims.  When I would turn the corner with weight on the =
passenger side it would rub.  I had the shocks and springs replaced, =
which helped, but didn't solve the problem.  So I waited until this year =
and replace them with SS III's with 225 70 14's, no longer the rubbing =
problem. =20

BUT=20

Ever since I've owned the car, I would get this vibrating noise (my =
steering wheel doesn't shake, and the car drives straight) at high =
speeds (55 to around 70 mph).  I thought maybe something with the tires =
and rims, but now that I got the new ones, I still have the problem.  I =
don't know how to exactly describe it.  It sounds like the car is in =
second gear or something (even though it's not).  I've even put the car =
in neutral while going these speeds with the same result.  I have never =
had the front end looked at.  The car has a 350 Olds (I believe) with a =
3 speed tranny (none of which is org.).

Any ideas?  Wheel bearings?  Something in the front end?  Rear end?  =
Drive shaft?

H E L P!

Dave
davepop@execpc.com


- ------=_NextPart_000_0054_01BE9546.4E243E40
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	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Let me give you a little background on the car and =
then the=20
question.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I bought a 67 Cutlass Convertible a year ago.&nbsp; =
It had 255=20
60 15 on Corvette rims.&nbsp; When I would turn the corner with weight =
on the=20
passenger side it would rub.&nbsp; I had the shocks and springs =
replaced, which=20
helped, but didn't solve the problem.&nbsp; So I waited until this year =
and=20
replace them with SS III's with 225 70 14's, no longer the rubbing=20
problem.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>BUT </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Ever since I've owned the car, I would get this =
vibrating=20
noise (my steering wheel doesn't shake, and the car drives straight) at =
high=20
speeds (55 to around 70 mph).&nbsp; I thought maybe something with the =
tires and=20
rims, but now that I got the new ones, I still have the problem.&nbsp; I =
don't=20
know how to exactly describe it.&nbsp; It sounds like the car is in =
second gear=20
or something (even though it's not).&nbsp; I've even put the car in =
neutral=20
while going these speeds with the same result.&nbsp; I have never had =
the front=20
end looked at.&nbsp; The car has a 350 Olds (I believe) with a 3 speed =
tranny=20
(none of which is org.).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Any ideas?&nbsp; Wheel bearings?&nbsp; Something in =
the front=20
end?&nbsp; Rear end?&nbsp; Drive shaft?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>H E L P!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Dave</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:davepop@execpc.com">davepop@execpc.com</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0054_01BE9546.4E243E40--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 10:38:12 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 1971 442 W30

....but the 328 was still available on the
REAL W30 of 71.......Hot Rod Harry
_________

I thought the 328 degree cam was dropped in 71 due to emissions.  Wasn't it
replaced by the 294/296 split pattern cam?

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 11:03:56 -0400
From: rmoriarty@blairinc.com
Subject: Re: Sticky Sport Steering Wheel

John, If you have had good luck with Castrol Super Clean on your sport wheel,
more power to ya. However, personally I wouldn't get Super Clean near anything
rubber or soft plastic. I had an air hose that was cleaned with Super Clean and
it hasn't been the same since. The rubber hose soaked up the Castrol and became
very sticky. When I tried to scrub the goo off, it looked like I was removing
outer layers of the hose. Eventually _most_ of the goo wore off, or more
accurately, the Super Clean evaporated. However, the rubber in the hose has not
returned to normal.

Super Clean will etch aluminum parts. The parts turn black after extended
contact!

I clean all metal parts with Super Clean, but I clean my sport wheel with
_diluted_ Simple Green (Visual: Ray holding a bottle of Simple Green, wearing a
cheesy grin and not getting paid for testimonial).

Ray
70 Cutlass Convertible
70 442 Convertible




Clean it up with Castrol Super Clean...This is WONDERFUL stuff for degreasing
also. I understand it can
attack aluminum though.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 10:46:35 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: 1971 442 W30

The 68-69s sounded the most radical
do to the 328 and only 400 cubes compared to the 328 and 455.(67s had the
308) Yes cubes make a difference....Hot Rod Harry...
________

Theoretically you are correct, however the G-block 400 is still the worst Olds
motor this side of a 260 (BTW, I love the comment someone made last week that
the 260 has a bore almost the same size as it's main bearing diameter...)  The
long stroke and tiny bore just don't let it use that 328 degreee cam,
unfortunately.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 11:07:41 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: trim and bumper questions(was Minnesota body shop)

the hood rear edge moulding is simply a matter of tapping it off the edge of
the hood with a hammer usually a body hammer taking care to move evenly down
the length so as to avoid bending it then using the mallet again to
reinstall it...
________

Yep.  I actually use a block of wood and a small sledge hammer.  Just take your
time and work evenly across the chrome strip.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 11:09:22 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Cutlass Brakes (fwd)

It's
almost like a brake fade problem, but I wouldn't think
they should get that hot in a matter of a split
second....
_______

I haven't been following this one, but it sounds like the master cylinder has
some internal leakage, like the seals on the pistons are on their way out.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 10:12:09 -0500
From: "David Popadic" <davepop@execpc.com>
Subject: Vibrations at high speeds?

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

- ------=_NextPart_000_0069_01BE954D.676EFD20
Content-Type: text/plain;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Let me give you a little background on the car and then the question.

I bought a 67 Cutlass Convertible a year ago.  It had 255 60 15 on =
Corvette rims.  When I would turn the corner with weight on the =
passenger side it would rub.  I had the shocks and springs replaced, =
which helped, but didn't solve the problem.  So I waited until this year =
and replace them with SS III's with 225 70 14's, no longer the rubbing =
problem. =20

BUT=20

Ever since I've owned the car, I would get this vibrating noise (my =
steering wheel doesn't shake, and the car drives straight) at high =
speeds (55 to around 70 mph).  I thought maybe something with the tires =
and rims, but now that I got the new ones, I still have the problem.  I =
don't know how to exactly describe it.  It sounds like the car is in =
second gear or something (even though it's not).  I've even put the car =
in neutral while going these speeds with the same result.  I have never =
had the front end looked at.  The car has a 350 Olds (I believe) with a =
3 speed tranny (none of which is org.).

Any ideas?  Wheel bearings?  Something in the front end?  Rear end?  =
Drive shaft?

H E L P!

Dave
davepop@execpc.com


- ------=_NextPart_000_0069_01BE954D.676EFD20
Content-Type: text/html;
	charset="iso-8859-1"
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 4.0 Transitional//EN">
<HTML><HEAD>
<META content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-1" =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D"MSHTML 5.00.2014.210" name=3DGENERATOR>
<STYLE></STYLE>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Let me give you a little background on the car and =
then the=20
question.</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>I bought a 67 Cutlass Convertible a year ago.&nbsp; =
It had 255=20
60 15 on Corvette rims.&nbsp; When I would turn the corner with weight =
on the=20
passenger side it would rub.&nbsp; I had the shocks and springs =
replaced, which=20
helped, but didn't solve the problem.&nbsp; So I waited until this year =
and=20
replace them with SS III's with 225 70 14's, no longer the rubbing=20
problem.&nbsp; </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>BUT </FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Ever since I've owned the car, I would get this =
vibrating=20
noise (my steering wheel doesn't shake, and the car drives straight) at =
high=20
speeds (55 to around 70 mph).&nbsp; I thought maybe something with the =
tires and=20
rims, but now that I got the new ones, I still have the problem.&nbsp; I =
don't=20
know how to exactly describe it.&nbsp; It sounds like the car is in =
second gear=20
or something (even though it's not).&nbsp; I've even put the car in =
neutral=20
while going these speeds with the same result.&nbsp; I have never had =
the front=20
end looked at.&nbsp; The car has a 350 Olds (I believe) with a 3 speed =
tranny=20
(none of which is org.).</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Any ideas?&nbsp; Wheel bearings?&nbsp; Something in =
the front=20
end?&nbsp; Rear end?&nbsp; Drive shaft?</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>H E L P!</FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2>Dave</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT size=3D2><A=20
href=3D"mailto:davepop@execpc.com">davepop@execpc.com</A></FONT></DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV></FONT></DIV></BODY></HTML>

- ------=_NextPart_000_0069_01BE954D.676EFD20--

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 09:22:09 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: 1969 Bumper]

Hi George,
	well how straight is straight?  I had a bumper re-plated and they weld 
holes
and re-stamp it before plating so it comes out looking dang good.  Since you
obviously know where to get good bumpers with no rust can't you just get it one
and have it re-stamped and show chrome plated?

	Anyway, I have one or two but since I live a long way from you (from 
most
people on the list anyway) I'm sure Desert Dog could provide as good a one for
cheaper.

Good luck,
- -- 

Cliff Simpson
mailto:csimpson@ucalgary.ca
'69 442,400,th400,3.31p (Kermit)
http://www.acs.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/TheOldsZone.html

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 11:25:39 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: trim and bumper questions(was Minnesota body shop)

Finally, most sales literature that I have seen shows a solid front
bumper, and yet my car has rectangular cutouts....
________

I assume you mean the cutouts on either side of the license plate?  I can't say
that I've ever seen a car without them.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com


66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 10:29:51 -0500
From: Brett Chaveriat <brett@mcs.com>
Subject: Exhaust recommendations on a 72 Cutlass

I am rebuilding my 455, and need to replace my exhaust.  I have been
talked into getting headers as well.  I am interested in recommendations
about pipes, mufflers, and headers.  I am planning on using a 2.5"
system.

1. Pipes.  Flowmaster seems interesting.  Any experience with 
   this system?  Other interesting options?  Dynomax?

2. Mufflers.  I am considering the Flowmaster 2 or 3 chamber.  I am
   concerned that the 2 chamber may be too loud with headers.  Thoughts?
   Other options?  Anybody in the Chicagoland area that has a system
   like these that I can listen to?

3. Headers.  I am not sure what to do.  I am more concerned about 
   one that will not fail in regular daily use than absolute
performance.  
   I was thinking about Jet Hot coating.  Will it help with engine 
   compartment heat?   I have heard of rust forming within months 
   of header coating.  

4.  Any suggestions about low cost sources for these.  I am 
    currently looking at Jegs and Summit.


- -- 

Brett Chaveriat

mailto:brett@mcs.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 10:16:28 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Vibrations at high speeds?

> Any ideas?  Wheel bearings?  Something in the front end?  Rear end?
> Drive shaft?

Dave:

All these things sound possible. You should close the top and at least 
localize the noise. Get someone with you in the back seat and both listen 
where the noise comes from. 

Does the noise increase/decrease in relation to acceleration and if you 
get your foot of the gas? If this is the case it is most likely the rear 
end. If it was the wheel bearings they actually should make a grinding noise 
thru most speeds.

If you are in total despair and can't figure it out, bring it to a 
reputable shop and let them drive and diagnose it. Should be free. 

Good Luck, George

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 11:12:27 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Sticky Sport Steering Wheel

Super Clean...Simple Green... heck, being cheap, I just use Fantastik or 409 o
n
my wheel.  Works fine, doesn't etch metal, doesn't contribute to goo 
production,
etc.  I'm convinced, by the way, that at least some of this mystery goo is the
result of years of Armor All application returning to the surface.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 11:16:25 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: Valve to piston clearance.

I hear all the good words about checking piston-to-valve clearance, but how do
you determine that you are checking at the point that the clearance is minimum?
It isn't necessarily at TDC.  I've been a fan of the modeling clay method.  
Yes,
it does require solid lifters (which the other methods really also require), 
but
it's foolproof.  A simple lump of modeling clay on the piston top, rotate the
engine, then mike the thickness of the clay.

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 09:31:22 +0000
From: Cliff Simpson <csimpson@ucalgary.ca>
Subject: Re: [Fwd: 1969 Bumper]

Sorry, meant to be private.  1 post, 1 screw-up, how's that for a bad start to
your day?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 11:40:20 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Exhaust recommendations on a 72 Cutlass

FLOWMASTER FLOWMASTER FLOMASTER!! 3 chamber delivers the most appealing
growl. Most efficient for flowing horspower as well. ;->

Omega Man
'74 Omega S 455
'74 Omega





At 10:29 AM 5/3/99 -0500, you wrote:
>
>I am rebuilding my 455, and need to replace my exhaust.  I have been
>talked into getting headers as well.  I am interested in recommendations
>about pipes, mufflers, and headers.  I am planning on using a 2.5"
>system.
>
>1. Pipes.  Flowmaster seems interesting.  Any experience with 
>   this system?  Other interesting options?  Dynomax?
>
>2. Mufflers.  I am considering the Flowmaster 2 or 3 chamber.  I am
>   concerned that the 2 chamber may be too loud with headers.  Thoughts?
>   Other options?  Anybody in the Chicagoland area that has a system
>   like these that I can listen to?
>
>3. Headers.  I am not sure what to do.  I am more concerned about 
>   one that will not fail in regular daily use than absolute
>performance.  
>   I was thinking about Jet Hot coating.  Will it help with engine 
>   compartment heat?   I have heard of rust forming within months 
>   of header coating.  
>
>4.  Any suggestions about low cost sources for these.  I am 
>    currently looking at Jegs and Summit.
>
>
>-- 
>
>Brett Chaveriat
>
>mailto:brett@mcs.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 08:51:04 -0700 
From: andrewm@edify.com
Subject: RE: Exhaust recommendations on a 72 Cutlass

I have the Flowmaster 2 chambers on my 455.  They give a great sound
around town, but at 50 mph are just too darn loud for my taste.  The 3
chamber Flowmasters are supposedly no better.  I am looking into
Dynomax since they * supposedly * are more of a "hush" than a "drone"
around town.  Just need the $$$$ ...

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
[mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Brett Chaveriat
Sent: Monday, May 03, 1999 11:30 AM
To: Olds List
Subject: Exhaust recommendations on a 72 Cutlass



I am rebuilding my 455, and need to replace my exhaust.  I have been
talked into getting headers as well.  I am interested in
recommendations
about pipes, mufflers, and headers.  I am planning on using a 2.5"
system.

1. Pipes.  Flowmaster seems interesting.  Any experience with 
   this system?  Other interesting options?  Dynomax?

2. Mufflers.  I am considering the Flowmaster 2 or 3 chamber.  I am
   concerned that the 2 chamber may be too loud with headers.
Thoughts?
   Other options?  Anybody in the Chicagoland area that has a system
   like these that I can listen to?

3. Headers.  I am not sure what to do.  I am more concerned about 
   one that will not fail in regular daily use than absolute
performance.  
   I was thinking about Jet Hot coating.  Will it help with engine 
   compartment heat?   I have heard of rust forming within months 
   of header coating.  

4.  Any suggestions about low cost sources for these.  I am 
    currently looking at Jegs and Summit.


- -- 

Brett Chaveriat

mailto:brett@mcs.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 10:41:01 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: Exhaust recommendations on a 72 Cutlass

Brett, 

just some thoughts:

> 1. Pipes.  Flowmaster seems interesting.  Any experience with 
>    this system? 

I think Flowmaster is the best sounding exhaust out there. I heard the 
other brands too but nothing comes close in my ears! 

> 2. Mufflers.  I am considering the Flowmaster 2 or 3 chamber. 
I think the 3 will be better for daily use though the 2 will be better 
for the cruise...

>    I was thinking about Jet Hot coating.  Will it help with engine 
>    compartment heat?   I have heard of rust forming within months 
>    of header coating.  
I would save the money and leave them plain. They will form a light rust 
surface just like the stock headers do but they will outlast pretty much 
everything on the car. My stock headers from 68 are still very solid for 
example. Of course the coating looks nice but if you don't go for the 
looks I think that is a point to save you some bucks. I heard bad stories 
about those coats too.

> 4.  Any suggestions about low cost sources for these.  I am 
>     currently looking at Jegs and Summit.

These are sure the main two places to get the stuff. I know that they 
don't sell any tubing for a cutlass at jegs and you have to get that 
custom bent. I would check by a reputable muffler shop in your area. They 
often put on Flowmaster systems. A shop in my town (the first one I 
called to get an idea about prices) quoted me 399 dollars for a complete 
Flowmaster setup with life time warranty. If you add up the parts you 
will soon hit 250 or even 300. Better let the shop do it and go cruisin 
instead. A good muffler shop will weld your exhaust. A much better 
solution then those home made clamp jobs that are often more likely to 
produce vibrating noises. 

Hope this helps some, 

George

68 cutlass s conv.

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 10:57:45 -0500
From: "David Popadic" <davepop@execpc.com>
Subject: Re: Vibrations at high speeds?

> All these things sound possible. You should close the top and at least
> localize the noise. Get someone with you in the back seat and both listen
> where the noise comes from.

Can't really determine where it's coming from.


> Does the noise increase/decrease in relation to acceleration and if you
> get your foot of the gas?

No, it's only at certain speeds, doesn't matter if I'm accelerating or
deaccelerating, it's the same.


> If you are in total despair and can't figure it out, bring it to a
> reputable shop and let them drive and diagnose it. Should be free.

What kind of garage?  I know (and trust) a place but they are basically
suspension and alignments and such?  Anybody know of a place in Miwaukee?
(or close)

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 11:24:24 -0400
From: Padavano.Joe@Orbital.COM
Subject: Re: '71 Supreme Trim and Paint

Answers to some of the questions (by the way, Bob, a belated welcome back):

===========

3.  Body Molding - originally the doors had little studs which held the
plastic clips.   The studs are long gone, so what do you use in place?
_______

The right way to do this is to use a stud welder to attach new studs.
Unfortunately, these units cost about $250 brand new, so unless you can borrow
one, you're out of luck.  The alternative is to drill holes and use pop rivets
or sheet metal screws.  This has the obvious problem of leading to possible
water entrance and additional rust in the bottom of the doors, so if you choose
this route be sure to use sealer when installing the screws or rivets.  In
addition, aluminum pop rivets will eventually cause galvanic corrosion with the
sheet metal of the door, so use steel if possible.

===========

4.  Was any kind of gasket used between the rear 1/4 panel and the
extension?
_______

Yep.  They should ba available repro from Fusick et al.

===========

5.  Can pot metal be re-chromed?
_______

Yes, but if the pot metal is pitted, expect either a poor quality job or a 
large
price tag.  Normal chrome shops will simply strip the old chrome, leaving a
divot where the pit used to be.  Shops specializing in pot metal restoration 
can
fill these zits, but this is a very labor intensive process to do properly, and
is priced accordingly.

===========

2.  Someone on the list (from Texas, I thing) had been doing rechroming
for a good price... I think it was going over the border.  ;^>  Are they
still around?
_______

That was Mike Aldana in San Diego.  Don't have a current e-mail address - 
anyone
else?

Joe Padavano
padavano.joe@orbital.com

66 442
68 W-30
69 H/O
69 442
70 W-30

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 09:04:00 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: steering column info

>I have a '65 Buick Special in need of a turn signal cam.
>[...] My car does not have tilt steering, and it's
>different from the '64 and '66 columns.
>
>I have a column from an '85 Cutlass and wondered if
>anyone has done such a replacement? If so, would you
>please email me privately, or if you have a turn signal
>cam for a '65, please contact me. Thanks!

Um, you want to stuff an '85 Cutlass column into a '65 dash? Wouldn't you 
have some diameter problems threading the column through the hole below the 
dash? You'd also have a large unexplained extra ignition switch sticking out 
the side of the steering column to complement the one in the dash. ("That's 
a spare!" :-)

Is it actually the cam you need, or a replacement switch? On newer cars, if 
the signal failed to cancel after a turn, the problem was not with the cam 
but with the release springs which hold the cancelling finger(s) out so that 
the cam will catch them when unwinding after a turn. The springs would 
sometimes break, but were available separately from the dealer, and could be 
replaced without having to replace the entire turn signal switch assembly. 
Not sure how much of this will translate back to a '65 column (I know the 
switch assembly is substantially different) but thought I'd mention it.

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 12:09:11 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Wheel bolt circle question 

Hey everyone
I need to know what the bolt circle measurement is for you guys cars. Since
I'm sitting at a desk at work I can't go out and measure my bolt cirle and
I'm emailing back and forth with a guy that has an old set of Cragars I
want. He keeps telling me they are standard Chevy size but the big cars had
a larger bolt circle rim. What is the measurement for the big car and mid
size car. Anyone know off the top of your head? 
TIA

Omega Man

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 12:12:58 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel bolt circle question 

More info:
He said they came off my 1958 Chevy Brookwood wagon. Anyone have a clue if
that would be same as Cutlai/442/Omega or Delta/Big
car/Impala???????????????????
Anyone?

Omega Man





At 12:09 PM 5/3/99 -0400, you wrote:
>Hey everyone
>I need to know what the bolt circle measurement is for you guys cars. Since
>I'm sitting at a desk at work I can't go out and measure my bolt cirle and
>I'm emailing back and forth with a guy that has an old set of Cragars I
>want. He keeps telling me they are standard Chevy size but the big cars had
>a larger bolt circle rim. What is the measurement for the big car and mid
>size car. Anyone know off the top of your head? 
>TIA
>
>Omega Man
>
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 12:11:13 EDT
From: RICH6986@aol.com
Subject: Re: Car Game

Just called to order it.  It is 19.95+shipping total was 24.95.  When I get 
it i will let you guys know if it is worth the money.
										
	Rich

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 09:24:01 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Parking lights, long (was: Brake and tail lights problem '68 
Cutlass)

>The wiring in the rear of the car is good, jumped 12v to the
>wire that comes off of the light switch and goes to the parking
>lights in the rear (brown wire).

Sounds good. Just to clarify (or beat it to death :-), you unplugged the 
light switch and stuck a hot lead into the brown wire of the harness plug 
there, right? Sounds like you have verified the entire wiring harness in one 
swell foop.

>The switch is good as I installed it in my 68 and it works fine.

I don't know what to tell you there, but I would be interested to get a 
voltage tester with a needle probe, and actually stab the brown wire once 
the switch is installed (in either your working car or the problem one) and 
just verify that the brown wire really is hot in the working car, dead in 
the problem one.

>The headlights do work but the front parking lights
>don't have bulbs and I really didn't think of checking
>the front out too much anyway since I had just spent 2
>hours under the dash getting the brake lights straight.

I think it might be interesting to see whether they work, although I would 
need a wiring diagram to tell whether they're actually fed by the same 
output connection from the headlight switch. (Remember that just one year 
prior, in 1967, they were still running parking lights in front only from 
the mid ("parking") position of the light switch, and if you went to full 
headlamps, the front parking lamps would go out.)

>I am at a loss as to why a good switch will get 12v in
>and not give you the 12v out as per the diagram.  Any
>ideas? Chris and I would be very grateful for any past
>experiences that could point us in a direction.

It might be an intermittent fault that you temporarily fixed in the course 
of swapping it into your car. It's also possible to measure _voltage_ out 
from a switch that's still dirty enough that it can't deliver enough 
_amperage_ to get any work done on the circuit. I spent an afternoon 
diagnosing a power window switch assembly that tested fine with a voltmeter, 
but couldn't actually move any windows until I sprayed it full of contact 
cleaner and blasted all the dirt out of it.

At this point your best bet might be to see if the local auto parts store 
will "lend" you a new switch to try out (usually they won't accept 
electrical returns unless you're a pal). And did you try swapping _your_ 
switch into the problem car?

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 12:34:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: "C. Casteel" <earthsci@POP.usit.net>
Subject: Re: Parking lights, long (was: Brake and tail lights problem '68 
Cutlass)

>>The headlights do work but the front parking lights
>>don't have bulbs and I really didn't think of checking
>>the front out too much anyway since I had just spent 2
>>hours under the dash getting the brake lights straight.
>
>I think it might be interesting to see whether they work, although I would 
>need a wiring diagram to tell whether they're actually fed by the same 
>output connection from the headlight switch. (Remember that just one year 
>prior, in 1967, they were still running parking lights in front only from 
>the mid ("parking") position of the light switch, and if you went to full 
>headlamps, the front parking lamps would go out.)
>

Just for the record guys, the front parking lights did work, when everything
else did. 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 09:49:13 PDT
From: "Andrew C. Green" <acg_o@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel bolt circle question

>He said they came off my 1958 Chevy Brookwood wagon.
>Anyone have a clue if that would be same as Cutlai/442/Omega
>or Delta/Big car/Impala???????????????????
>Anyone?

Impala. If you check out this photo of a '58 Chevy Brookwood at 
http://www.stationwagon.com/gallery/pictures/1958_Chevy_Brookwood.jpg you'll 
see that it is indeed an Impala wagon.

- -- Andy


_______________________________________________________________
Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 12:58:03 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Wheel bolt circle question

At 09:49 AM 5/3/99 PDT, you wrote:
>>He said they came off my 1958 Chevy Brookwood wagon.
>>Anyone have a clue if that would be same as Cutlai/442/Omega
>>or Delta/Big car/Impala???????????????????
>>Anyone?
>
>Impala. If you check out this photo of a '58 Chevy Brookwood at 
>http://www.stationwagon.com/gallery/pictures/1958_Chevy_Brookwood.jpg you'll 
>see that it is indeed an Impala wagon.
>
>-- Andy


That I know. I need to know if the wheels off of that thing have the same
bolt circle measurment as the Cutlass/Chevelle/Camaro/Nova/Omega. I know of
a set of 14x6 Cragars that came off one of those wagons. 

Omega Man

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 13:01:18 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: Exhaust recommendations on a 72 Cutlass

> 1. Pipes.  Flowmaster seems interesting.  Any experience with 
>    this system?  Other interesting options?  Dynomax?

My general experience with pre-bent pipes is that they don't fit great,
since someone's car was used as a template.  If your's or their's was
sightly tweaked (or just plain different) then they won't fit.   I found a
shop that did custom bent 2.5" pipes, mainfold to bumper, for about $75
more than the prebent pipes.
 
> 2. Mufflers.  I am considering the Flowmaster 2 or 3 chamber.  I am

I've had good luck with Dynomax.   4 years and they're not rotted, not
blown out, and sound real good at WOT.

> Brett Chaveriat
> 
> mailto:brett@mcs.com

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    -->   bob@tecmark.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

 

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 13:02:54 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Olds Books

In a message dated 99-05-02 19:39:59 EDT, you write:

<< Im going to be going for a long drive to Colorado in a few weeks. I need 
to find some good reading material. >>

Keith,
A good one for you is the 1970 Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual.

Naturally, what will really be engaging reading depends on what YOU want to 
learn.
So yes, the Resto Guide could be illuminating.
As could Supercars' "By the Numbers" book.

For light reading "the Standard Catalogue of Oldsmobile" is particular 
helpful for learning about Olds cars in years you are uninterested/unfamiliar 
with.

"Setting the Pace" is a good overview of the growth of Oldsmobile as an 
Automobile Manufacturer and has lotsa nifty pics, info, and has production #s 
in the back.
And no, it does not break down to 4 4 2 cars with rallye pacs.....

The Doug Roe book "Rochester Carburetors", and Ron Sessions' "How to .....the 
Turbo-Hydramatic 400 are also particularly helpful, unless you tool around 
with a Hooey, and a Munchie.

Or, for less, print out a couple of lectures from the Performance Professor 
at Goracing.com.
It will take a long trip to digest all that tech stuff.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 12:08:01 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Exhaust recommendations on a 72 Cutlass

I have a 2.5 inch exhaust system on my 72 Olds 442. It had Hooker Headers
and Dynomax mufflers. The exhaust has turndowns right by the rear
differential. It is pretty loud. If I added a complete exhaust all the way
to the rear it would make it much quiter but it would cut performance. I am
located on the south side of Chicago...I would go with the Dynomax
mufflers. Every Mustand punk out there has Flowmasters and the Dynomax flow
and sound better. The Dynomax are straight through. 
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Brett Chaveriat <brett@mcs.com>
> To: Olds List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
> Subject: Exhaust recommendations on a 72 Cutlass
> Date: Monday, May 03, 1999 10:29 AM
> 
> 
> I am rebuilding my 455, and need to replace my exhaust.  I have been
> talked into getting headers as well.  I am interested in recommendations
> about pipes, mufflers, and headers.  I am planning on using a 2.5"
> system.
> 
> 1. Pipes.  Flowmaster seems interesting.  Any experience with 
>    this system?  Other interesting options?  Dynomax?
> 
> 2. Mufflers.  I am considering the Flowmaster 2 or 3 chamber.  I am
>    concerned that the 2 chamber may be too loud with headers.  Thoughts?
>    Other options?  Anybody in the Chicagoland area that has a system
>    like these that I can listen to?
> 
> 3. Headers.  I am not sure what to do.  I am more concerned about 
>    one that will not fail in regular daily use than absolute
> performance.  
>    I was thinking about Jet Hot coating.  Will it help with engine 
>    compartment heat?   I have heard of rust forming within months 
>    of header coating.  
> 
> 4.  Any suggestions about low cost sources for these.  I am 
>     currently looking at Jegs and Summit.
> 
> 
> -- 
> 
> Brett Chaveriat
> 
> mailto:brett@mcs.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 13:08:31 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: Wheel bolt circle question 

In a message dated 99-05-03 12:13:20 EDT, you write:

<< He said they came off my 1958 Chevy Brookwood wagon. Anyone have a clue if
 that would be same as Cutlai/442/Omega or Delta/Big
 car/Impala???? >>

1965 D-88 & 98's us 5bolts x 5" diam. pattern.

This can be measured assomething like 4.75" or 4.50" between non-adjacent 
bolts.

4.75"?

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 13:10:41 -0400
From: Gene Gilpin <ggilpin@wrallp.com>
Subject: Re: Exhaust recommendations on a 72 Cutlass

I have different opinions here. I installed the Flowmaster Camaro/Nova
setup on a '74 Nova and everything fit great. It all went together smoothly
and looked even and just right. I can scan some pics if anyone wants to
see. I've got pics of the system layed out on the floor and after I
installed them in the car. And you can't beat the sound of Flowmaster at WOT!

Omega Man

ps anyone got an answer to my wheel question?



At 01:01 PM 5/3/99 -0400, you wrote:
>
>> 1. Pipes.  Flowmaster seems interesting.  Any experience with 
>>    this system?  Other interesting options?  Dynomax?
>
>My general experience with pre-bent pipes is that they don't fit great,
>since someone's car was used as a template.  If your's or their's was
>sightly tweaked (or just plain different) then they won't fit.   I found a
>shop that did custom bent 2.5" pipes, mainfold to bumper, for about $75
>more than the prebent pipes.
> 
>> 2. Mufflers.  I am considering the Flowmaster 2 or 3 chamber.  I am
>
>I've had good luck with Dynomax.   4 years and they're not rotted, not
>blown out, and sound real good at WOT.
>
>> Brett Chaveriat
>> 
>> mailto:brett@mcs.com
>
>                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
>                    -->   bob@tecmark.com  <--
>        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"
>
> 
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 13:33:46 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: http://www.usapartssupply.com/

Hey all!

It's late for us now, so the latest SOM adventure must wait until the morrow.

Rather, we thought we would let y'all know (practicing for TX Nat's!) about 
the latest dealing with USA Parts Supply (Olds/Caddy).

Back in early Dec. Karl ordered a hood pad and clips, horn relay, parking 
brake cables, and other stuff.

The other stuff arrived forthwith, typical of previous dealings. Some items 
on backorder. Not a prob, not everyone has 1965 items at hand.

Then Karl was busy.

Come April.
Karl calls them and "...uh, I never got these items, are they still on 
backorder?"

Answer: " No, we show they shipped Dec. 24, Christmas Eve."

?

???

So as X-mas was a Friday, shoulda been recieved before the new year!

Fella Karl talked with was having trouble accessing the system and promised 
to call back the next buisiness day.

Message on machine was that when backordered items were accumulated they were 
placed in a basket for processing, which was then put on a back burner 
somewhere and never shipped. Believe the glitch was that they needed to 
contact to confirm the additional credit card billing, and that that never 
happened.

Karl had not called as he believed they were having trouble rounding up 
parking brake cables.

Now, hood pad looks great!
But: horn relay is very different, and got one brake cable segment instead of 
a set.

So, Karl gotta call again.

But!

Will definitely order from USA Parts Supply (Olds/Caddilac) again!
And the same goes for Supercars Unlimited as the need arises!

We just wanted y'all to hear our experience so's you could judge for 
yourselves.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 13:43:19 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: wrist pin screws engine

In a message dated 99-05-02 15:25:50 EDT, you write:

<<  pulled motor this morning and found that the wrist pin moved out to the 
cyl wall. I see a sleeve and a set of new pin floating rods on the horizon 
this is the last time that I listen to local machine shops, more like 
junkyard mechaincs. the part
 that sucks is that I am 2nd in points as of saturday
                         Butch   68   442   post >>

Oh, NO!

Not after investing in Edelbrock and Arias (getting name wrong, Karl knows) 
pistons AND milling the heads?

Yah, good mechs hard to find.

Olds-able machinists even tougher, it seems.

Jim Chermac enlightened us as to a bad experience nearly a year ago in a post 
that I have since forwarded to others before I lost everything (all saved 
emails).

Summat about ruining the valves as they ended up not being within 0.010" in 
length of each other.

Still got that one in your archives Jim lad?

Anyhow, Butch, sorry to hear bad news about bad pin when you are so far along 
in points.

AND

Bet you'd a been doing 11's sooner if it weren't for the pin dragging!

Hoping for a speedy recovery.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 13:56:13 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: PH-11 or PH-25 in ANY Olds?

In a message dated 99-05-02 13:13:13 EDT, you write:

<<  The box says of the PH-11;
    "Replaces AC PF-7, PF-31"
  
  The PH 25 box says;
    "Replaces AC PF-24, PF-30"   >>

To further confuse this issue, we add that the STP-7 filter fits the 1965 425 
pretty well, and appearred at the time to be fairly massive compared to 
others.

Have also used PF 24 but dunno if have seen PF 30 recently.
Recall that PF 31 or 32 is the double filter for ACDelco, mebbe???

Further, please do NOT use the Fram filter with PFTE in your car.
You will be sorry when you pay for the overbore.

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 14:04:26 EDT
From: KarlAunan@aol.com
Subject: Re: '68 4-4-2 on MCC

<< Greg say it aint so Eight tracks are out? I just got an 8 track player and
 some tapes I suppose your gonna tell me they are gonna use some kind of disc
 it cant be I like not having the record skip with the 8- track >>

<<< And they trashed 8-tracks! I lost all respect for them right there... ;-) 
 >>>

8 track players do have a place in the world.

Just only in 4 4 2 cars with radical cams that shake so much that you could 
not swap a cassette tape if you wanted to.

And what was that exchange of words at the Oldsmobile Centennial Greg?

(proud new owner of 8-track tape, speaking about vendor of same): "He didn't 
know what he had."

(his friend): "Do you?"

Just an observation!

Send flames to: KarlAune@aol.com

SOM

&KA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 14:20:54 EDT
From: Zitoj@aol.com
Subject: frame off

Thanks for the responses, finally ;-)

I'll look for the numbers again onece I get back home on the weekend. 
Spent this weekend stripping parts out of the 68 junker.  I've got most of 
the interior out.  Still need to pull the rear passenger trim panel one of 
the screws is frozen in place.
the shifter knob on the console is also frozen and since the wiring harness 
doesn't disconnct from outside the console I can't just cut the flo

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 11:28:40 -0700 (PDT)
From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Rim & Tire Choices??

I currently have 14x6 Cragars (chrome 5 star) on my 70 Cutlass.  I love
the look, but I want to switch to 15's to fill the wheel wells a bit
better.  If you want a general idea of what they look like (14's) I
think I have a picture somewhere, or I could just make some pictures
and e-mail them to you.  Currently I have Road King? blackwall tires,
but I'm getting BFGoodwrich radial T/A's (white letters)put on in about
a week.  I can get pictures with both sets of tires, just so you can
compare what the rims look like with blackwall v.s. white letter tires.
 

- --- Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net> wrote:
> Well I decided to cahnge the rims and tires on my 72 442 convertible.
<snip>
> The rim I was looking to get is either the Cragar Street Star 341
> series 15
> x 8 or the Weld Pro Star 96 series 15 x 8. They are both a chrome 5
> star
> rim. Would these look good on that thype of car? Does anyone have
> those on
> their 70-72 442?
<snip>
_________________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 14:29:07 -0400 (EDT)
From: Bob Valentine <ravalent@liii.com>
Subject: Re: PH-11 or PH-25 in ANY Olds?

On Mon, 3 May 1999 KarlAunan@aol.com wrote:

> Further, please do NOT use the Fram filter with PFTE in your car.
> You will be sorry when you pay for the overbore.

So does this mean the Fram filters better than others?

                     -->   Bob Valentine  <--  
                    -->   bob@tecmark.com  <--
        "Experience varies directly with equipment ruined"

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 14:28:01 EDT
From: Zitoj@aol.com
Subject: parting problems & frame off

Thanks for the VIN location, finally ;-)  I'll check next weekend when I'm 
back in Attleboro.

I spent this weekend stripping parts out of the 68 442 rust bucket.

I've gotten most og the interior out, still having some problems, looking for 
advice:

The passenger door is stuck shut, I plan to unstuck when I chop up the body.

I can't get the shift knob off the console and since 68 harnesses aren't 
modular I can't disconnect the harness and chop out the console and do it 
later.

How do I get the headliner rails out of the roof? do I just force the ends 
out?

All for rnow.

Jim
69 442 conv

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 14:31:13 EDT
From: Zitoj@aol.com
Subject: Body and frame shops

I'm getting ready to move to the Albany area and plan to get my conv 
restored.  I plan to do all the skull work (stirpping, disassembly, POR 15 
painting, etc) and will need to find a shop to make sure my frame is 
straight, dip it and maybe galvanize or powder coat it.  I'll also need to 
find a body shop to do all the skill work on the body.

Any suggestions?

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 14:40:20 EDT
From: VLHDancer@aol.com
Subject: Re: parting problems & frame off

HOWS THE ROOF ON YOUR 68 442 MINE LEAKS STILL NEED A FIX. 2 DOOR HARD TOP. 
LOOKING FOR A FIX. FLORIDA

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 13:46:42 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Rim & Tire Choices??

Sounds good...Thanks
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Re: Rim & Tire Choices??
> Date: Monday, May 03, 1999 1:28 PM
> 
> I currently have 14x6 Cragars (chrome 5 star) on my 70 Cutlass.  I love
> the look, but I want to switch to 15's to fill the wheel wells a bit
> better.  If you want a general idea of what they look like (14's) I
> think I have a picture somewhere, or I could just make some pictures
> and e-mail them to you.  Currently I have Road King? blackwall tires,
> but I'm getting BFGoodwrich radial T/A's (white letters)put on in about
> a week.  I can get pictures with both sets of tires, just so you can
> compare what the rims look like with blackwall v.s. white letter tires.
>  
> 
> --- Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net> wrote:
> > Well I decided to cahnge the rims and tires on my 72 442 convertible.
> <snip>
> > The rim I was looking to get is either the Cragar Street Star 341
> > series 15
> > x 8 or the Weld Pro Star 96 series 15 x 8. They are both a chrome 5
> > star
> > rim. Would these look good on that thype of car? Does anyone have
> > those on
> > their 70-72 442?
> <snip>
> _________________________________________________________
> Do You Yahoo!?
> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1938
*********************************

