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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1937


oldsmobile-digest         Monday, May 3 1999         Volume 01 : Number 1937



Re: Resend A/C Panel Troubles
Re: Electrical Question..
Re: OCA Web Site Updated
Re: Smoothie Q-Jet.  was: Q-jet on 360 Mopar
Re: Drag Strip Question.
Re: 1975 Delta 88 Convertible
Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1936
PH-11 or PH-25 in a '66 Olds 330.
SSIII Wheel Balancing
Philly open house
'69 Brake power booster color?
Re: Electrical Question..
PH-11 or PH-25 in ANY Olds?
Re: '69 Brake power booster color?
Got the new tranny in...
'68 4-4-2 on MCC
2.00" & 1.625" valves on 350
Re: Smoothie Q-Jet.  was: Q-jet on 360 Mopar
wrist pin screws engine
Re: Smoothie Q-Jet.  was: Q-jet on 360 Mopar
Re: wrist pin screws engine
Re: 70 Cutlass (value)
Re: '69 Brake power booster color?
Re: 2.00" & 1.625" valves on 350
Re: Differential Math
OK, so I got the stupid things to work, so what...
Re: Got the new tranny in...
Re: '69 Brake power booster color?
?
Olds Books
Re: Electrical Question..
Re: Differential Math
Re: Differential Math
Re: Olds Books
Rim & Tire Choices??
Re: '68 4-4-2 on MCC
Re: '69 Brake power booster color?
Re: SSIII Wheel Balancing
Re: Rim & Tire Choices??
trim and bumper questions(was Minnesota body shop)
Re: Rim & Tire Choices??
Sticky Sport Steering Wheel
SSII's 4 Sale
Differential Math, Part II
Re: Rim & Tire Choices??
Re: Sticky Sport Steering Wheel
Re: Rim & Tire Choices??
steering column info
Does anyone have any searchable archives other than the 1995 ones?
TBI question
boneyarding a dash+in.-ex wiring harness

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 08:24:12 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Resend A/C Panel Troubles

>I just bought a 90 Cutlass Supreme 2 dr, 2.3 Quad-4 with 30K about three
>weeks ago.  I can't get the air conditioning to work!  The blower/fan will
>work at all four speeds but the selector buttons (the a/c, floor, vent,
etc)
>don't seems to make any difference.

~Assuming~ the Q4 is like older cars... if the vents don't switch, I would
suspect vacuum problems. Check the main vacuum feed line comming from the
engine compartment. If there's no vac, check that the accumulator tank is
getting vacuum. Those little plastic vac hoses get brittle and break.

  > I've also confirmed that the a/c
>compressor is not running when I select the a/c button.


Could be anything from low Freon to a bad fuse. You need to get a schematic
and a voltmeter and follow the path of power through all the relays and
safety switches that could prevent the compressor from being engaged.

>I removed the selector panel from the dash and the panel looks ok
>mechanically.  Is there another unit that the in-dash panel works with that
>I should be looking at?  Has anyone heard of the in-dash selector panel
>going bad like this before?


They're pretty reliable, but.....


drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 08:30:15 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Electrical Question..

>What would cause the volt gauge to jump from 14.5 to almost 16.0 in a split
>second while the car is idiling with the driving lights on? It does not do
>this with the lights off.

Only thing I could think of is an intermittant (and external) regulator. Or
the connections to the voltmeter itself (bad ground path). I would put an
external voltmeter right accross the battery and see if the "spike" is real,
or if your gage is lying to you.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 08:45:54 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: OCA Web Site Updated

- -----Original Message-----
From: Brad Nicholson <brad442@mdo.net>
To: Olds Mailing List <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Saturday, May 01, 1999 10:22 PM
Subject: OCA Web Site Updated


>Check it out at:
>http://www.oldsclub.org
>


Ummm...JWO_may_1999.jpg is not loading.

And I'd sure like to have a .jpg of the April JWO cover car...Kris Johnson's
wheel standing "Big Red" Delta. A smokin' B-body  arrrg  arrrg.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 08:12:21 -0500 (CDT)
From: blue442@webtv.net (Jeff Carter)
Subject: Re: Smoothie Q-Jet.  was: Q-jet on 360 Mopar

A relative of mine has a worked QJ on his truck.  I believe it flows
something like 1080 cfm.  I'll try to find out the where - whatfor on
it.

I love Holleys, but somehow a QJ just looks right on an Olds.

Jeff

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 09:23:59 -0400
From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
Subject: Re: Drag Strip Question.

Glen,
    Thanks for the reply!

Glenn J. Martin wrote:

> I am not sure what they use for cars but for airplanes a standard day
> used for calculations is temp. 15 degrees C and 29.92 inches of mercury.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 09:25:31 -0400
From: "Jim and Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: 1975 Delta 88 Convertible

David,
    First of all congratulations on your purchase.  There's nothing quite
like a convertible!  Sounds like your project needs a little TLC.  One of my
sources is right here on the list...Jim Chermack.  He mostly supplies 64-72
Olds but does have parts for our car from time to time.  Another great
supplier has been USA Parts Supply http://www.usapartssupply.com/  .
Fusicks ( http://www.fusick.com/ ) is another supplier similiar to USA that
I have not ordered from yet.  If you need any more suppliers let me
know...you can never have too many!  Good luck and enjor your top down
cruiser.

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible  OCA# 031463
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
>
> First time Olds owner and emailer here--I just purchased a 75 Delta
> Convertible, and would love some go to advise for parts related to
> interior work--the doors are loose, windows wobbly, arm rests loose,
> etc. any advise appreciated!
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 09:33:00 -0400
From: "Jim and Sharon Brady" <bradyiii@shore.intercom.net>
Subject: Re: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1936

Oh....I almost forgot...there are also at least three people on the list
with 75 Delta Convertibles.

Jim Brady
1973 Olds Delta88 Royale Convertible  OCA# 031463
http://members.tripod.com/~SuperOlds/JimDelta.html
bradyiii@shore.intercom.net
>
> First time Olds owner and emailer here--I just purchased a 75 Delta
> Convertible, and would love some go to advise for parts related to
> interior work--the doors are loose, windows wobbly, arm rests loose,
> etc. any advise appreciated!
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 14:03:18 -0500
From: "Charles A. Dempsey" <cdemps@lsumc.edu>
Subject: PH-11 or PH-25 in a '66 Olds 330.

The Fram book says use a PH-25 oil filter for the '66 Olds 330 engine.
When I changed the oil in the new '66 Cutlass yesterday I found a PH-11
had been installed.

The gasket end of the PH-11 is virtually identical to that of the PH-25
but having slightly larger (return?) holes about the central inlet.
Other than that the only difference is that the PH-11 is about one inch
taller.

The box says of the PH-11;

"Replaces AC PF-7, PF-31"

The PH 25 box says;

"Replaces AC PF-24, PF-30"

I've found errors in the Fram book before, and it's obvious that the
PH-11 "works" here, but which is correct? Is there any reason to prefer
one over the other? The PH-11's additional length is not a problem, at
least on my '66.

Thanks,
Charles

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 10:43:13 -0400
From: "jhurd" <jhurd@neo.rr.com>
Subject: SSIII Wheel Balancing

List,

	I have a 1987 Olds Salon with SSIII wheels.  I am replacing two tires 
and
will be getting all the wheels rebalanced.  About a year ago, I vagely (sp)
remember posts to the list about balancing these wheels.  Something about
the use of a special adapter or something.  Could someone give me the
run-down on balancing these wheels so I can be prepared before I go to the
shop.  TIA




Jim H.
'87 Salon

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 11:42:57 -0400
From: "Patton" <patton@ComCAT.COM>
Subject: Philly open house

North East list folks .......

                I will be having an open house
at my Philly location the first or second
Sunday of June.......

Any interest ????????


The General

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 12:46:02 EDT
From: Zeilmanns@aol.com
Subject: '69 Brake power booster color?

I just bought a new Brake power booster and it arrived painted in gray primer 
like paint.  I am wondering what color these were originally for a '69 4-4-2. 
 If I were to guess, I would say gloss black, but I want to know for sure.  
Anyone know?

Best Regards,

Jeff Zeilmann
'69 4-4-2
'69 Cutlass Convertible
zeilmanns@aol.com

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 11:50:26 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Electrical Question..

Pettrix@prodigy.net

> 
> >What would cause the volt gauge to jump from 14.5 to almost 16.0 in a
split
> >second while the car is idiling with the driving lights on? It does not
do
> >this with the lights off.
> 
> Only thing I could think of is an intermittant (and external) regulator.
Or
> the connections to the voltmeter itself (bad ground path). I would put an
> external voltmeter right accross the battery and see if the "spike" is
real,
> or if your gage is lying to you.
> 
> drc
It is real because the lights will brighten for a quick second as the gauge
jumps up.
 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 13:11:05 EDT
From: DYeager535@aol.com
Subject: PH-11 or PH-25 in ANY Olds?

In a message dated 5/2/99 6:39:17 AM Pacific Daylight Time, cdemps@lsumc.edu 
writes:

<< The Fram book says use a PH-25 oil filter for the '66 Olds 330 engine.
 When I changed the oil in the new '66 Cutlass yesterday I found a PH-11
 had been installed.
 
 The gasket end of the PH-11 is virtually identical to that of the PH-25
 but having slightly larger (return?) holes about the central inlet.
 Other than that the only difference is that the PH-11 is about one inch
 taller.
 
 The box says of the PH-11;
 
 "Replaces AC PF-7, PF-31"
 
 The PH 25 box says;
 
 "Replaces AC PF-24, PF-30"
 
 I've found errors in the Fram book before, and it's obvious that the
 PH-11 "works" here, but which is correct? Is there any reason to prefer
 one over the other? The PH-11's additional length is not a problem, at
 least on my '66.
 
 Thanks,
 Charles >>

	Charles, I can't say anything about the PH-25 or 11 being correct on 
your car, but I was looking at that for my 403. I'm almost positive the 
mating surfaces of the two are identical. But I don't like Fram, and no other 
company sems to make a similar filter to the 11. Look up PH11 in another book 
(like Purolator) and they say use the 25. It looks like perhaps the 11 is on 
its way out. I personally wouls use one if I could find it if it wasn't Fram. 
I looked through the Fram book and another manufacturers book (think it was 
store brand) and couldn't find one vehicle that used the 11. fr some reason I 
had AMC's in my mind, but I couldn't find one that mentioned it...or maybe it 
listed 25's instead..can't really remember.   Dorian

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 14:17:47 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: '69 Brake power booster color?

The brake boosters were originally cadmium plated, that stuff that is a
combination of gold, silver, orangey and green tones. It seems that after
a short time they corroded over to a nondescript tan/gray shade. When I
convert my '68 to disks I'm going to get my booster replated.

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 12:40:28 -0500 (CDT)
From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Dr. Olds - K. Wood)
Subject: Got the new tranny in...

I replaced the Long Tail TH400 in my Cutlass
Supreme with the right tail- 67 Buick Switch
Pitch tranny.  Took for a ride today.  Man that
thing is gonna be fun.  I "switched on" the stall
and punched it a little bit-- that thing wound up
just a bit and whoosh!  Tires spinning like crazy
and I'm off.  I've always know that I wanted a
stall converter because the power band doesn't
come in until around 2000 Rpm.  Anyway, then
I switched off the stall and it does behave like
a well built TH400 with a mild shift kit in it.
This transmission is a little stiffer going into
the next gear than my last one was.  It is cool
to be able to slam the dual gate into second and break them loose a
little again.

Anyway- no verdict yet on the vibration.  I have
a few more things I want to look at before I
go blasting down the highway at 80-plus.

Regarding the rear main seal (2 piece Ford 460 unit) that I installed.
I put about 10 miles on today- and still dry.  I hope it stays that way.

One more thing-- something that I had eliminated a long time ago as a
potential vibration cure- was the rear axle bearings.  I had them both
replaced at different times a 
couple of years ago...  I was driving along today
on a quiet back road and I heard what sounded
like a slurping- sticky sound.  - Like a kid sucking on a lolly pop...
I came home and took
off the rear drums- and found some slop on
the drivers side bearing-  That may very well be the vibration I've been
looking for.  Just never
occured to me that it could go bad- because it
is new.  Maybe it's been bad since it was new.
Anyhow, I cannot find any place that will do the
bearing for me in the Milwaukee area today, so
Monday's the day.  I will check the bearing seat 
to make sure the new one fits like it should, and
then maybe tomorrow I will have my answer.

But now if the vibration goes away, how will I
know what it was?  I don't care right now-- I 
just got a kick-*ss tranny and if the vibration
goes away- I'll be pleased.

Later,
Kevin D. Wood
Dr-Olds@webtv.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 15:03:27 -0300 (ADT)
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: '68 4-4-2 on MCC

Finally got around to seeing the rerun of My Classic Car with the '68
4-4-2. Nice car, but I think they could have found a better example, even
aside from the fact that it was the Turnpike Cruiser version. I got a
chuckle out of the "restored to factory original" line they used a couple
of times. Those 14x7 SSIIIs must have been a real rare option in '68... :)
And they trashed 8-tracks! I lost all respect for them right there... ;-) 

Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 12:13:58 -0600
From: "Igor Todorovic" <igor455@home.com>
Subject: 2.00" & 1.625" valves on 350

Is it possible to put 2.00" intake and 1.625" exhaust valves on a 7a head
for use on a 350.  I was thinking about a 350 being my next project, a motor
that can rev fairly well and sit behind 4.10s or so.  Can I use the smoger
BB valves.  Thanks.

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 13:20:20 -0600
From: "Jeff Newman" <newsance@netzero.net>
Subject: Re: Smoothie Q-Jet.  was: Q-jet on 360 Mopar

What I don't understand is how many people replace their qjets with holleys.
Granted, holley makes a great carb, but I have seen people replace 750 qjets
with 600 cfm holleys. WTF?
- -----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Carter <blue442@webtv.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, May 02, 1999 7:13 AM
Subject: Re: Smoothie Q-Jet. was: Q-jet on 360 Mopar


A relative of mine has a worked QJ on his truck.  I believe it flows
something like 1080 cfm.  I'll try to find out the where - whatfor on
it.

I love Holleys, but somehow a QJ just looks right on an Olds.

Jeff



________________________________________________________
NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet.  Shouldn't you?
Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 15:22:30 -0400
From: "B. Vosburgh" <bob442@svic.net>
Subject: wrist pin screws engine

Well the gremlins are still here, get rear end straightend out and car
starts to smoke a little get back from the track do a compression check
all cyl at 240 , check #8 and 210lbs pulled motor this morning and found
that the wrist pin moved out to the cyl wall. I see a sleeve and a set
of new pin floating rods on the horizon this is the last time that I
listen to local machine shops, more like junkyard mechaincs. the part
that sucks is that I am 2nd in points as of
saturday                         Butch   68   442   post

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 15:35:20 -0400
From: "Edward Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
Subject: Re: Smoothie Q-Jet.  was: Q-jet on 360 Mopar

I have put Holleys on every muscle car or hot rod I've ever owned, Replaced
Q-jets, AFB's, and Autolites. I've never been sorry or disappointed. BUT, I
use the proper CFM for the engine, and thoroughly tune them for the
application. IMHO, infinite tuneability and neck snapping off-the-line
performance are the reason to install the best and junk out the rest (e-bay
is a good place to junk them out).

BTW the Holley Qjet replacement is a 650 CFM because that's as much as most
(stock) engines need. Stock engines rarely use ALL 750 CFMs that a Qjet will
flow. The Holley will still perform better :-).

(all in good fun boys)

- -----Original Message-----

>What I don't understand is how many people replace their qjets with
holleys.
>Granted, holley makes a great carb, but I have seen people replace 750
qjets
>with 600 cfm holleys. WTF?
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Jeff Carter <blue442@webtv.net>
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Date: Sunday, May 02, 1999 7:13 AM
>Subject: Re: Smoothie Q-Jet. was: Q-jet on 360 Mopar
>
>
>A relative of mine has a worked QJ on his truck.  I believe it flows
>something like 1080 cfm.  I'll try to find out the where - whatfor on
>it.
>
>I love Holleys, but somehow a QJ just looks right on an Olds.
>
>Jeff
>
>
>
>________________________________________________________
>NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet.  Shouldn't you?
>Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
>http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 14:04:54 -0600
From: Oldsmagnet <buehner@lyrea.com>
Subject: Re: wrist pin screws engine

> that the wrist pin moved out to the cyl wall. I see a sleeve and a set
> of new pin floating rods on the horizon this is the last time that I
> listen to local machine shops

If this was recent work, and they talked you into doing it that way, I'd call
them and/or a lawyer.  It's difficult to warranty a racing motor, but if the
option was there for something better, and you were willing then, but they 
still
cut corners, there may well be a liability issue.  Although from the sounds of
things, time is more of a concern than liability.

> that sucks is that I am 2nd in points as of saturday                         

Ouch.  Well, I guess right now you're turning wrenches instead of reading this,
but if you ~do~ catch this in time, best of luck, man!  Go get 'em!!!

- -- 
Oldsmagnet - Charley Buehner @ Sidney Montana |\      |-------|   
mailto:buehner@lyrea.com To mail direct to me |/\|=|  |   |   |
http://drive.to/Oldsmagnet    See my homepage |\ |=|  |   |   |
http://members.tripod.com/~Oldsmagnet Mine too|<||=|  |   |   |
     "I SEEK YOU!"  ICQ # 20418760            |/ |=|  |  / \  |
http://cyberglyphs.com/gbody/ G-Body ListHome |\/|=|  | / | \ |
http://www.lyrea.com/~buehner/listfaq.htm     |/      |___|___|

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 14:56:53 -0500 (CDT)
From: George <cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu>
Subject: Re: 70 Cutlass (value)

Kevin, 

I hope that this 10k price range was true.... I think you are right with 
your price estimate of around 6.5k US. If it is up north and you really 
have to worry about rust, well it may even be less. Many people I know 
have purchased nice non 442 cutlass conv. for about that price range 
without that major rust you are talking about. Well, if they sell for 
that much in Canada, may be worth the trip if I ever want to sell mine... 
better wait for the 70 442...

George

- --------------------------------------------------------------
'68 Cuttlass S Conv. 
- --------------------------------------------------------------

On Sat, 1 May 1999, R. Grant wrote:

> I just seen a 70 Cutlass Convertible for sale all original w/ 310hp 350 auto
> power windows SSII's (14" Cutlass rims) looked to be in good condition had
> been repainted with no rust on the body but some minor rust on the underside
> of it. Looked to be from Calgary as it had the name of the dealership on it,
> it was gold with gold interior buckets with console. I was wondering what
> the value of this car would be I figure about 9000$ Can or 6500$ US The
> place that has it for sale is asking 16500$ Can for this car. If I was going
> to spend that much on a Olds it would be on a 70 442 Convertible 4 speed not
> a Supreme. Am I wrong are the Supremes in good condition going for this type
> of price? Note the paint on this car was not perfect I would even say that
> it should be repainted, and something would have to be done to stop the
> minor rust on the underside of the floor. The car was just outside of
> Brampton Ontario in a little town called Norval if anyone in southern
> Ontario is interested let me know and I can get the phone number. Please
> note that 16500$ Can is about 10000$ US
> 
> Kevin Grant
> 80 Cutlass Supreme
> 
> 
> 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 15:34:47 -0500
From: "72Hurst" <72hurst@net-email.com>
Subject: Re: '69 Brake power booster color?

My brake booster cover was cadium plated when new, and after about a year
and a half, it had corroded to an ugly color. So, rather than replate it and
the power booster, I bought the "cadium painting kit" from Eastwood and did
them both. They turned out well, looking just about as good as an original
cadium plating would look and being that they're paint, I suspect will last
much longer, we'll see.
John
72hurst@net-email.com

> The brake boosters were originally cadmium plated, that stuff that is a
> combination of gold, silver, orangey and green tones. It seems that after
> a short time they corroded over to a nondescript tan/gray shade. When I
> convert my '68 to disks I'm going to get my booster replated.
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 16:18:55 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: 2.00" & 1.625" valves on 350

>Is it possible to put 2.00" intake and 1.625" exhaust valves on a 7a head
>for use on a 350.  I was thinking about a 350 being my next project, a
motor
>that can rev fairly well and sit behind 4.10s or so.  Can I use the smoger
>BB valves.  Thanks.
>

Yes you can Igor.  My 72 w/7a heads ran 2.072" intake and 1.625" exhausts
with a mild port job.  The W31's had the 2.000"/1.625" valves I believe and
all that was changed on the heads was to cut them for the larger valves.  I
concentrated my porting on teardroping the guides and smoothing out the
transitions where we cut the heads for the larger valves.  My advice though
is to spend the extra money on a set of stainless valves.  I had problems
with intakes warping and ultimately dropped an exhaust using TRW stock
replacements.  Live and learn.

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 17:17:53 -0400 (EDT)
From: vfquick442@webtv.net (markas)
Subject: Re: Differential Math

List, Has anyone seen the formula for determining rear diff. ratio. I
saw it in MCR, but cannot find issue. Had 70 442 with 3:23 rear out
today.At 60 MPH on flat road ,speedo read 3300 RPM.This seems a little
high.I did wheel spin/drive shaft count a few years back and it seemed
to be correct 3:23 .Anybody know if this is where tach should be ?All
replies are appreciated.    Thanx................Markas 

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 16:29:59 -0500
From: Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
Subject: OK, so I got the stupid things to work, so what...

For those of you that were interested in (or indeed even FOLLOWING) the
"More Adventures..." and "No More Adventures..." threads...

Several days ago I got the stock set of gages to work in The Party Barge.
I did not rejoice in this, and did not triumphantly post to the list
(despite the huge ordeal that it was) because the manner in which I got the
stupid things to work was not the way I wanted to do it (completely stock).

The key thing that I was not admitting (and if I HAD been doing this, the
whole job would have taken about 10 minutes) was that you HAVE to run a
second oil pressure wire if you want both a gage and a light - I was
thinking that there would be circuitry in the dash that would take the
variable signal and "ignore" the majority of the signal, only coming on if
it dropped below a certain threshold.  This is of course not the case, and
my sincerest apologies to those who tried to tell me this when I wouldn't
listen.

You also have to run a variable temperature wire through the firewall -
again, people told me to do this, but I didn't think they were correct
because I already HAD two wires at my temp sender.  Turns out that the
variable temp sender wire didn't go aft of the firewall, so I needed to run
a shorter wire from the gage to the forward side of the firewall, and
splice into the variable signal (green/white stripe).

BUT - I can now say that I have successfully added a stock voltimeter, oil
pressure gage, and temperature gage to an 80s RWD B-body.  I think this
would be a good addition to the FAQ, where info on these cars is
(understandably) lacking...

FROM THE DONOR CAR:

1.	You will need the upside-down-U shaped wood paneled piece that goes 
over
the column and actually holds the gages and the lower (gage package
specific) wood panel piece.  If you can, get several gages of the same type
from the junkyard, just to have as spares.

2.	You will also need the wiring harness that runs to the gage contacts 
and
also has the light sockets on it.  Unplug the harness (from the female
connector inside the dash) and remove the gage package.  You will not need
to modify this harness (with the L-shaped connectors and the light bulbs)
at all.

3.	You will need to remove the dashboard, and locate the 12 cavity
connector that plugs into the printed circuit board on the back of the
cluster carrier, just to the driver's left of the speedo cluster.  Some of
these cavities will have single wires, and some will have two wires.  There
are only three wire assemblies that you will be adding to your car's
12-cavity connector, and all three of them are dual wires - the pink/black
stripe wires, the grey wires, and the black wires.  Just pull the wires out
of those three cavities and cut them loose (only cut the wires going to the
firewall, NOT the ones going to the gage cluster harness).

	Thread the three leads out from the bottom of the dash by pulling on 
the
gage cluster harness - by doing this step you will save yourslef three
soldering jobs (connector to harness).

	It may be tempting to also try and save the dual wire brown and dual 
wire
green OR green w/white stripe OR green w/yellow stripe OR "a combination of
these greens" wires also - DO NOT DO IT.  All you need to save are the
pink/black wire (power), the black wire (ground), and the grey wire
(lights).  You will need to cut the green wire (temperature) and the brown
wire (oil) that go from the harness to the 12-cavity connector.

4.	You will also need a varialbe oil pressure sending unit and a 
variable
temperature sending unit.  It would be an EXCELLENT idea to remove these
from the donor car at the same time - you might find that the oil pressure
sender is screwed into a 68 - 72 Ralleye Pak oil pressure brass fitting, be
sure to grab this also.

5.	You will also want to collect the rubber boot that holds the oil
pressure lead onto the sender (cut it with wire cutters) and also
(possibly) the temperature wires/connector as well (my car had two wires on
the connector already).

ON YOUR CAR

6.	Again, remove the dashboard.  Add the three dual-wire connectors to 
your
12-cavity connector by pulling your old ones out of the cavity, cutting
them, soldering the new ones in, and sliding the new ones into the cavities.

	Plug the 12-cavity connector back into the cluster carrier.  At this
point, you will have lights in the gage cluster, and a working voltimeter.

7.	You will need to run two wires thru the firewall - one from the oil
pressure sender and one from the temp sender.  If your car is like mine,
then you already have two wires (On/Off and Variable) on your temp sender,
but the Variable wire doesn't run through the firewall - in this case you
can just splice your new wire into the variable wire (most likely
green/white stripe or green/yellow stripe, NOT solid green) just forward of
C100 (the bulkhead connector underneath the windshield wiper reservoir).

	Solder the oil pressure rubber boot onto your new wire.  You have a 
choice
of either having both an idiot light and a gage, or just a gage - if you
want both, you will have to buy a brass "T" or "Y" fitting to screw on both
your variable sender and your On/Off sender.  If you want just a gage, then
your stock idiot light wiring will still be there and unmolested if you
ever decide that you DO want both.

	Install your variable temp sending unit, and plug the connector in.

8.	Solder your new oil wire and your new temp wire onto the brown and 
green
wires respectively (on the gage harness, that you cut loose from the donor
car's 12-cavity connector).

9.	Make sure all your connections are tight, and make sure that all the
gages work, before you put your dashboard back on.  The Oil Pressure gage
will probably seem to be pegged at maximum (60 psi+) with the motor running
but cold - once the oil warms up you will start to see changes in oil
pressure when you rev the motor.

10.	Finis.

- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
Austin, TX 78722          Home:	 (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
                                              (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
1984 Oldsmobile          Pager:	 (512) 483-8056
	Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
		4-door
"The Party Barge"
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 17:44:04 EDT
From: Harrell17@aol.com
Subject: Re: Got the new tranny in...

Kevin, I just put a Long tail shaft 400TH in my 72 Cutlass Conv. I got the 
engine and tranny out of a 72 Ninety Eight and never gave any thought to the 
leangth of the tranny. It moved my crossmember back so far I had to drill 
holes in the frame to accomodate the rear bolt holes. How did your 
crossmember bolt in and if you still have the drive shaft from the long 400 
could I get a leangth on it from center to center of the u-joints? I had to 
have a driveshaft built because the old shaft couldn't be shortened that 
much. Thanks, Jim

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 18:44:47 -0400
From: Scott Parker <sparker442@banet.net>
Subject: Re: '69 Brake power booster color?

A friend of mine uses "Cadillac Gold" paint and it looks good. 'Won't pass
for cad or yellow irridite, whatever it is, but nothing will but the real
thing.  Eastwood sells that imitation cad paint kit, but many on the list
have said not to bother. Mine's with a guy in Calif. for the plating (about
$100 includes the master cylinder cover).  It's possible that the Caddy Gold
with a mist of silver and clear green over it would look OK...
Scott Parker
71 442 Conv.

Greg Beaulieu wrote:

> The brake boosters were originally cadmium plated, that stuff that is a
> combination of gold, silver, orangey and green tones. It seems that after
> a short time they corroded over to a nondescript tan/gray shade. When I
> convert my '68 to disks I'm going to get my booster replated.
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 19:20:22 -0400
From: "kenl" <kenl@icubed.com>
Subject: ?

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Can you give info on 1986 Olds cutlass ciera gt covertible made by =
carcraft? THanks


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<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD W3 HTML//EN">
<HTML>
<HEAD>

<META content=3Dtext/html;charset=3Diso-8859-1 =
http-equiv=3DContent-Type>
<META content=3D'"MSHTML 4.71.1712.3"' name=3DGENERATOR>
</HEAD>
<BODY bgColor=3D#ffffff>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2>Can you give info on 1986 Olds =
cutlass ciera gt=20
covertible made by carcraft? THanks</FONT></DIV>
<DIV><FONT color=3D#000000 size=3D2></FONT>&nbsp;</DIV></BODY></HTML>

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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 19:38:24 EDT
From: KASOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Olds Books

	Im going to be going for a long drive to Colorado in a few weeks.  I 
need to find some good reading material.    I thought about buying the w 
machine book, but I have seen lots of you guys talking about mistakes in that 
book.  Can anyone recommend some good oldsmobile books?

Keith
70 442

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 20:06:33 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Electrical Question..

Peter,

I had a bad voltage regulator (it was new and expensive, after market) behave
exactly like that on our Buick GS.  It was an external voltage regulator, not
sure what you have.  Bought a replacement at Parts America for a very
reasonable price.  Came in a box labeled Wells.  Peeled off the Wells sticker
on the regulator and found Delco-Remy stamped on the cover.  Works fine.

Dude

Peter Landowski wrote:

> Pettrix@prodigy.net
>
> >
> > >What would cause the volt gauge to jump from 14.5 to almost 16.0 in a
> split
> > >second while the car is idiling with the driving lights on? It does not
> do
> > >this with the lights off.
> >
> > Only thing I could think of is an intermittant (and external) regulator.
> Or
> > the connections to the voltmeter itself (bad ground path). I would put an
> > external voltmeter right accross the battery and see if the "spike" is
> real,
> > or if your gage is lying to you.
> >
> > drc
> It is real because the lights will brighten for a quick second as the gauge
> jumps up.
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 19:00:20 -0500
From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: Differential Math

List, Has anyone seen the formula for determining rear diff. ratio. I
saw it in MCR, but cannot find issue. Had 70 442 with 3:23 rear out
today.At 60 MPH on flat road ,speedo read 3300 RPM.This seems a little
high.I did wheel spin/drive shaft count a few years back and it seemed
to be correct 3:23 .Anybody know if this is where tach should be ?All
replies are appreciated.    Thanx................Markas 

The problem with this is your speedo has to be accurate.  Any 
change in tire diameter, gears, or even just an old speedo will
cause it to be inaccurate.  The thing I don't understand is why
everyone will do anything to avoid pulling the cover on the 
rearend to simply look at the gears.  The oil in there needs to 
be changed and most people never do it and have no clue
as to the last time it was done.  This is one of those things that
the manufacturer's don't include in the owners manual since it
doesn't need to be done during the warranty period.  Since many
of us have cars that have been out of warranty for decades that
means nothing.  About every 3 years is a good interval, but your
supposed to check the level every oil change.  How many of 
us do that?

Mike Bloomer
mbloomer@mindspring.com
ICQ# 19113713
http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 20:06:54 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Differential Math

Here's the formula you're looking for:

    mph = (RPM x Tire Diameter)/(336 x Gear Ratio)

Solving for RPM:

    RPM = (mph x 336 x Gear Ratio)/(Tire Diameter)

Assuming your tire is 26.5 dia.

    RPM = (60 x 336 x 3.23)/(26.5) = 2457

So, the 3300  is awfully high unless you're running wee tires or 4.33
gears.

Dude

markas wrote:

> List, Has anyone seen the formula for determining rear diff. ratio. I
> saw it in MCR, but cannot find issue. Had 70 442 with 3:23 rear out
> today.At 60 MPH on flat road ,speedo read 3300 RPM.This seems a little
> high.I did wheel spin/drive shaft count a few years back and it seemed
> to be correct 3:23 .Anybody know if this is where tach should be ?All
> replies are appreciated.    Thanx................Markas

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 20:14:03 -0400
From: retrorockets <retrorockets@snet.net>
Subject: Re: Olds Books

Keith,
I mentioned mistakes in that Olds Restoration Guide.  There are some, but the
book isn't totally bogus by any means.  There's still a lot of good stuff
including copies of pages of pertinent info from service manuals and other
factory reference books.  And there are even mistakes occasionally in the 
factory
stuff, either typos or sometimes changes were made in production after the
material was printed.  Didn't mean to put that bad a slant on the Restoration
Guide.

Dude

KASOLDS@aol.com wrote:

>         Im going to be going for a long drive to Colorado in a few weeks.  I
> need to find some good reading material.    I thought about buying the w
> machine book, but I have seen lots of you guys talking about mistakes in that
> book.  Can anyone recommend some good oldsmobile books?
>
> Keith
> 70 442

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 19:15:21 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Rim & Tire Choices??

Well I decided to cahnge the rims and tires on my 72 442 convertible. It
has the stock SSIII's on there now with Goodyear raised letter tires. THe
reason I want to change them is my 3.73 gear in the back is making my
cruising at 55MPH hard to do. I have 225 50R14 tires in back. 

The rim I was looking to get is either the Cragar Street Star 341 series 15
x 8 or the Weld Pro Star 96 series 15 x 8. They are both a chrome 5 star
rim. Would these look good on that thype of car? Does anyone have those on
their 70-72 442?

What is a good tire to get? I hear the BF Goodrich Drag Radials are good.
Anyone have any good/bad experiences with those tires? What would be the
best size for my 72 442 convertible. I am looking for a wide (235-255) and
taller tire to cut my gear down to a more liveable RPM. What is a good
size? Do those tires hook ggod on dry pavement? How about life expectancy?

Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 20:11:58 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: '68 4-4-2 on MCC

Greg say it aint so Eight tracks are out? I just got an 8 track player and
some tapes I suppose your gonna tell me they are gonna use some kind of disc
it cant be I like not having the record skip with the 8- track
- ----- Original Message -----
From: Greg Beaulieu <ab348@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Oldsmobile <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, May 02, 1999 1:03 PM
Subject: '68 4-4-2 on MCC


>
> Finally got around to seeing the rerun of My Classic Car with the '68
> 4-4-2. Nice car, but I think they could have found a better example, even
> aside from the fact that it was the Turnpike Cruiser version. I got a
> chuckle out of the "restored to factory original" line they used a couple
> of times. Those 14x7 SSIIIs must have been a real rare option in '68... :)
> And they trashed 8-tracks! I lost all respect for them right there... ;-)
>
> Greg Beaulieu    ab348@chebucto.ns.ca    Dartmouth, Nova Scotia, Canada
>
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 20:12:55 -0500
From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
Subject: Re: '69 Brake power booster color?

gold irridite no paint...most rebuilts are painted black...KK
- ----- Original Message -----
From: <Zeilmanns@aol.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, May 02, 1999 11:46 AM
Subject: '69 Brake power booster color?


> I just bought a new Brake power booster and it arrived painted in gray
primer
> like paint.  I am wondering what color these were originally for a '69
4-4-2.
>  If I were to guess, I would say gloss black, but I want to know for sure.
> Anyone know?
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Jeff Zeilmann
> '69 4-4-2
> '69 Cutlass Convertible
> zeilmanns@aol.com
>

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 21:23:12 -0400
From: "Andersons" <robertan@cfw.com>
Subject: Re: SSIII Wheel Balancing

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Good post attached from last year on the subject- I'm saving it to take to
my local tire shop for next balancing.  The stuff about "flunkies" and
minimum wage in there is sure to win friends and influence people!
- ----- Original Message -----
From: jhurd <jhurd@neo.rr.com>
To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Sent: Sunday, May 02, 1999 10:43 AM
Subject: SSIII Wheel Balancing


> List,
>
> I have a 1987 Olds Salon with SSIII wheels.  I am replacing two tires and
> will be getting all the wheels rebalanced.  About a year ago, I vagely
(sp)
> remember posts to the list about balancing these wheels.  Something about
> the use of a special adapter or something.  Could someone give me the
> run-down on balancing these wheels so I can be prepared before I go to the
> shop.  TIA
>
>
>
>
> Jim H.
> '87 Salon
>

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Delivered-To: robertan@cfw.com
Received: (qmail 17267 invoked from network); 11 Aug 1998 21:04:18 -0000
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From:	"Ed Binnix" <comid@jellico.com>
To:	<oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Subject: Re: Tire/Wheel Balance Question
Date:	Tue, 11 Aug 1998 17:06:55 -0500
Message-ID: <01bdc574$5a18e0e0$LocalHost@coarl>
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The problem with SSIII wheels is not the wheels themselves, but the flunkies
who balance them. Yes, everyone of them. MOST tire jockeys are minimum wage
amateurs who don't know that it's tricky to mount SSIII's as well as SSII's
on a balancer. The problem is, the center cone on those wheels are very
small. You have to clean the back of the wheel and put the large cup on the
back of the wheel. In other words the balancer attaching order is such: big
cup, wheel, very small cone, spinner. Most wheels are: appropriate size
cone, wheel, big cup, spinner. Tire guy's may do a set of SSIII's every few
months while they do normal rims every day. You can tell just by watching
the wheel whether they have it on straight. It will have a slight wobble if
it's wrong. It will balance on the machine with very LARGE weights in that
manner. But on the car, the tires are even more out of balance than with no
weights at all.

Some important things to remember, mud in the rim will throw off balancing.
Fix-a-flat will annihilate balancing. The beauty rings are not on the rim
when balancing takes place and beauty rings are not balanced. The guy will
roll his eyes, but if you can talk him into it ($), you can have him spin
the wheel with the trim ring on, take it off to mount the weights, and
replace it to re-check it. It DOES make a slight difference. Most of all
SUPERVISE. They hate it, but it is your right. If they won't let you, go
somewhere else. When I was still in the business, I was the only one in my
shop that could get SSIII's down to zero. I hated pulling of a REAL job to
do it but if we wanted that customer to come back . . . . It takes someone
who cares what they are doing. Generally most tire flunkies are waiting for
five o'clock.

Just my .02, well maybe .03

- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: Comid <Comid>
Date: Tuesday, August 11, 1998 3:04 PM
Subject: Tire/Wheel Balance Question


>
>Received: from halifax.chebucto.ns.ca [129.173.4.205] by jellico.com with
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>Date: Tue, 11 Aug 1998 14:58:29 -0400
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>From: "Thomas Q. Bartee" <tbartee@mitre.org>
>Subject: Tire/Wheel Balance Question
>X-Orcpt: rfc822;"|/csuite/etc/majordomo/wrapper resend -l oldsmobile -h
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>Precedence: bulk
>Reply-To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
>Hi everyone - I have a question pertaining to my '85 Olds Cutlass Salon -
>at highway speeds the car vibrates a bit, seems like lately more than
>usual.  The common diagnosis for this is to rebalance the wheels/tires.  I
>have the factory SSIII wheels (5-spoke chrome) on the car (the tires are
>Firestone Firehawks, P215/70R14s).  One time when I had the tires balanced
>(with a different set of tires), the tire technician told me that the
>wheels were "not balanced" and that he could put the larger weights on the
>wheel, but it still may not ride perfect.  Several times thereafter I have
>had the wheels balanced and they always end up with a very large weight
>attached (even with new tires).
>
>My questions are: has anyone had any problems with balancing tires on the
>SSIII wheels?  Would I likely get a better ride if I swapped for another
>type of wheel?  Any other things I should check?  I don't suspect the front
>alignment is bad since the tire wear is even across the front tires.
>
>TIA, all help appreciated - Tom.
>
>
>




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------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 21:35:46 EDT
From: KASOLDS@aol.com
Subject: Re: Rim & Tire Choices??

In a message dated 5/2/99 7:14:05 PM Central Daylight Time, 
PETTRIX@prodigy.net writes:

<< Well I decided to cahnge the rims and tires on my 72 442 convertible. It
 has the stock SSIII's on there now with Goodyear raised letter tires. THe
 reason I want to change them is my 3.73 gear in the back is making my
 cruising at 55MPH hard to do. I have 225 50R14 tires in back. 
 
 The rim I was looking to get is either the Cragar Street Star 341 series 15
 x 8 or the Weld Pro Star 96 series 15 x 8. They are both a chrome 5 star
 rim. Would these look good on that thype of car? Does anyone have those on
 their 70-72 442?
 
 What is a good tire to get? I hear the BF Goodrich Drag Radials are good.
 Anyone have any good/bad experiences with those tires? What would be the
 best size for my 72 442 convertible. I am looking for a wide (235-255) and
 taller tire to cut my gear down to a more liveable RPM. What is a good
 size? Do those tires hook ggod on dry pavement? How about life expectancy?
 
 Pettrix@prodigy.net >>

I have known a few people who have used the BFG Drag Radials.  They loved the 
BFG's they wear out fairly quick, but what to you expect its a drag tire.  
Also since the tire is a radial it will still allow your car to handle decent 
(unlike most drag tires)

Keith
70 442

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 20:53:25 -0500
From: tj <tj1852@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: trim and bumper questions(was Minnesota body shop)

Thanks to everyone who provided advice to my questions about finding an
autobody shop in Minnesota to paint my '71 cutlass S.  I finally did
find an old friend of my Dad's to do the work for me.  He's sort of an
old-timer; hopefully he will do a good job

So now I am in the process of removing the trim, and I have a couple of
questions about it.  My car did not originally come with bright metal
roof rail moldings, but I have located a set, and would like to install
them when the paint job is done;  is there a trick to this?  What is the
best tool to do this?  Also, how do I remove, and reinstall, the bright
molding at the rear of the hood?  the two small pieces on the back of
the fenders are held on with nuts, but the hood strip appears to be
pressed together(?)

Finally, most sales literature that I have seen shows a solid front
bumper, and yet my car has rectangular cutouts.  Does anyone know if
solid front bumpers exist, or did they only appear for pre-production
publicity shots?  I really like the look of the solid bumper better, and
had planned on having mine rechromed anyway.

Thanks for your help--you guys and gals are great!

Tim

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 20:56:58 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: Re: Rim & Tire Choices??

I have narrowed it down to either the Cragar Drage Star or Weld Pro Star
both look the smae and have the same prices, which is better???
Pettrix@prodigy.net

- ----------
> From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
> Subject: Rim & Tire Choices??
> Date: Sunday, May 02, 1999 7:15 PM
> 
> Well I decided to cahnge the rims and tires on my 72 442 convertible. It
> has the stock SSIII's on there now with Goodyear raised letter tires. THe
> reason I want to change them is my 3.73 gear in the back is making my
> cruising at 55MPH hard to do. I have 225 50R14 tires in back. 
> 
> The rim I was looking to get is either the Cragar Street Star 341 series
15
> x 8 or the Weld Pro Star 96 series 15 x 8. They are both a chrome 5 star
> rim. Would these look good on that thype of car? Does anyone have those
on
> their 70-72 442?
> 
> What is a good tire to get? I hear the BF Goodrich Drag Radials are good.
> Anyone have any good/bad experiences with those tires? What would be the
> best size for my 72 442 convertible. I am looking for a wide (235-255)
and
> taller tire to cut my gear down to a more liveable RPM. What is a good
> size? Do those tires hook ggod on dry pavement? How about life
expectancy?
> 
> Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 21:12:51 -0500
From: texas442 <texas442@flash.net>
Subject: Sticky Sport Steering Wheel

Those of you who have a 4-spoke steering wheel may have experienced the
same problem.  The steering wheels gets very sticky as though it is
smothered in glue.  What causes this?, and are there any tricks to
illuminate this?  Thanks.

Ali Zalzala
email:  texas442@flash.net
http://www.flash.net/~texas442
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 21:26:34 -0500
From: "Peter Landowski" <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
Subject: SSII's 4 Sale

I am selling four SSII rims 14 x 7. They have been sandblasted and
powdercoated with a silver metallic color. All the center caps and trim
rings are attached, polished and are not pitted anywhere at all. They have
brand new Goodyear Eagle ST tires attached on them. The tires are brand
new. The rears are 225 70R14 and the fronts are 215 70R14. The tires are
raised white lettering. All 4 rims have been balanced and are ready to be
bolted on.

I am located near the Chicago, IL. area.

My asking price is $500.00 or more......

E-mail me privately.......
Pettrix@prodigy.net

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 22:28:25 -0400
From: "John Pajak" <jspajak@us.hsanet.net>
Subject: Differential Math, Part II

retrorockets wrote:

Here's the formula you're looking for:

    mph = (RPM x Tire Diameter)/(336 x Gear Ratio)
<snip of rest of math>

**************************
The 336 constant is OK for a stickshift car or an automatic with a lockup
convertor. Substitute 355 for the constant if you have an automatic with a
nonlockup convertor.

John Pajak
http://drive.to/pajak

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 22:30:44 -0400
From: "John Pajak" <jspajak@us.hsanet.net>
Subject: Re: Rim & Tire Choices??

- -----Original Message-----
From: Peter Landowski <PETTRIX@prodigy.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, May 02, 1999 9:05 PM
Subject: Rim & Tire Choices??


>Well I decided to cahnge the rims and tires on my 72 442 convertible. It
>has the stock SSIII's on there now with Goodyear raised letter tires. THe
>reason I want to change them is my 3.73 gear in the back is making my
>cruising at 55MPH hard to do. I have 225 50R14 tires in back.


**********
Peter,
Even with P275/60R15 tires and 3.73s, my 72 W30 was very hard to live with
on a long trip. With the current 3.42 gears it's a lot better.

John Pajak
http://drive/to/pajak

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 22:35:32 -0400
From: "John Pajak" <jspajak@us.hsanet.net>
Subject: Re: Sticky Sport Steering Wheel

- -----Original Message-----
From: texas442 <texas442@flash.net>
To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Sunday, May 02, 1999 11:01 PM
Subject: Sticky Sport Steering Wheel


Those of you who have a 4-spoke steering wheel may have experienced the
same problem.  The steering wheels gets very sticky as though it is
smothered in glue.  What causes this?, and are there any tricks to
illuminate this?  Thanks.


**********
I believe it's from the vinyl 'outgassing'. Clean it up with Castrol Super
Clean...This is WONDERFUL stuff for degreasing also. I understand it can
attack aluminum though.

John Pajak
http://drive.to/pajak

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 21:40:41 -0500
From: "Glen Hankins" <hankins5@hit.net>
Subject: Re: Rim & Tire Choices??

I am looking for a wide (235-255) and
>taller tire to cut my gear down to a more liveable RPM. What is a good
>size?

Peter-

I ran 255/60R15 BFG Radial T/As on my 72 four door on a 15x8 rim.  Mine sat
about an inch lower than stock. I only had clearance trouble on one side,
but I rolled both of the wheelwells for good measure.  I don't remember the
backspacing on the rims, but that size tire should fit in your wheelwell
with no trouble.  Fills out the rear very nicely.  I also ran a 235/60R15 on
the front on a15x7 rim.

GBH

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 23:10:01 -0400
From: Jim Olson <jolson@edzone.net>
Subject: steering column info

HELP!

I have a '65 Buick Special in need of a turn signal cam. This part is
NOT like the one available at (I forgot the name) the guys who
specialize in restoration stuff. I ordered one from there last summer
and it's not right. My car does not have tilt steering, and it's
different from the '64 and '66 columns. 

I have a column from an '85 Cutlass and wondered if anyone has done such
a replacement? If so, would you please email me privately, or if you
have a turn signal cam for a '65, please contact me. Thanks!

Jim...

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 2 May 1999 20:24:49 -0700
From: kleinwulf@netzero.net
Subject: Does anyone have any searchable archives other than the 1995 ones?

Hi all.

I'm Aaron Brady.  I recently purchased a 1988 Olds Cutlass Supreme 
International.  In my search for info, I've discovered this list and that info 
on this 
car seems to be rare.

If it helps, I can provide the following info:
VIN: 1G3WR14W6JD354653

I'm looking for whatever I can find but really have an interest in the 
following:
GVWR
Suggested max towed weight
Curb weight
Number actually produced
Places to find parts - headlight housing, grill and other essentially cosmetic 
stuff.

I've done some net searching and will continue to do so as time permits.

I also plan to build a site devoted to my vehicles at:
http://silverstone.fortunecity.com/daytona/521 

Thanks for any help and I'll be posting some of my adventures with this thing 
later.


________________________________________________________
NetZero - We believe in a FREE Internet.  Shouldn't you?
Get your FREE Internet Access and Email at
http://www.netzero.net/download/index.html

------------------------------

Date: Sun, 02 May 1999 22:19:29 -0700
From: Andy Lawrence <lawrencj@coral.indstate.edu>
Subject: TBI question

I have a 90 Fullsize chevy truck with a modfied 350....The engine has a
Performance CAM, Chip, underdrive Pullies, Roller Tip rockers, unrestricted
exhaust.....

The problem is that under mid to 3/4 throttle without downshifting the truck
will Ping, rather loudly!  This only happens when the Truck is Cold, after 
about
2-3 minutes of driving when the trucks gets alittle warm it quits.
Why is this?

------------------------------

Date: 2 May 99 22:03:44 PDT
From: Randy Hermsen <76Cutlass@netscape.net>
Subject: boneyarding a dash+in.-ex wiring harness

hey guys and girls how ya all doin...?Ive been boneyardin a 72 cutlass supreme
dash got the whole thing including all interior wiring harness right to the
fuse box then I turned too the engin compartment harness right from the fuse
box got the head light frt wires plus windshield wiper motor  starter gen alt
or I guess reg pretty well got every wire in the car with out disconnecting
anything plus marking every plug I did unplug.....hey Brian from the party
barge yes Ive watched every post from deep inside the dash got really sad when
you spoke neg.  ...gotta always think pos.    Ive never rewired a car before
the old man who sold me this 72 cutlass supreme conv. had a elec.fuel pump
with lots of no  no rubber fuel line  in it he filled the trunk with spare
parts steering colums tail lights the inside was full too the starter was
missing the gen.I dont know why he took the whole dash apart but I have to put
it back almost forgot took the hood yesterday too   65.00 dollars totalalmost
forgot took taillights alsoI know Ive got alot of wire to put back but Ive got
my oldsmo bro and sisters to lean on if I got a problem thanks all
                                          Randy
                                            76 cutlass supreme
                                              72 cutlass supreme conv.
                               p.s.watched all posts about elec.fuelpumps
awhile ago and rubber fuel lines if you saw the mess I have to fix due to
fire.Please be carefull with this stuff any one want to buy a regulator and
pump cheap..lol....got a tan dash and black one for sale west coast canada.

____________________________________________________________________
Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at 
http://webmail.netscape.com.

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1937
*********************************

