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Subject:	oldsmobile-digest V1 #1902


oldsmobile-digest       Tuesday, April 13 1999       Volume 01 : Number 1902



Re: LOL350 man gets educated425style
Re: water as coolant, once more
Anti-Antique Laws (Re: Title search)
Re: steering box questions
1969 98

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 07:01:46 EDT
From: Four42much@aol.com
Subject: Re: LOL350 man gets educated425style

In a message dated 4/13/99 12:56:59 AM Eastern Daylight Time, 
76Cutlass@netscape.net writes:

<< anyone need a 65 dynamic 88 for parts? >>

tilt wheel?.....Hot Rod Harry <A HREF="http://members.aol.com/magsurv/">HOT 
ROD HARRY'S OLDSMOBILES
</A> 

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 07:21:35 -0400
From: "Dave Cullen" <david.cullen@snet.net>
Subject: Re: water as coolant, once more

... I seem to recall
that water has the highest specific heat capacity of almost any
substance known to man - this means that a gallon of water can soak up
more heat for a given temperature rise than a gallon of almost
anything else, including water/antifreeze mixes.
- ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ----------

BINGO! Give the man a cigar! Ethyl Glycol sucks for specific heat compared
to water.

- -------------------------------------------------------------------
<> the
...as others have pointed out, pure water can form tiny steam bubbles
which are good insulators and reduce heat transfer from metal to
water. So antifreeze/water mix can do a better job
- ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

Best explanaion I've ever heard.

- -----------------------------------------------------------

As to what the optimum ratio of antifreeze to water is, I have know
idea. But I do remember the antifreeze bottle saying something about
using no more than 70% or 75% antifreeze in the mix.

- -John Carri
- --------------------------------------------------------------

The factory uses 50-50 and that's what the antifreeze people recommend too.
Sounds like a winner to me.

drc

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 07:31:56 -0400
From: tchurchill@draper.com (Timothy A. Churchill)
Subject: Anti-Antique Laws (Re: Title search)

Dan Gerow, Creator of that Awesome CUtlass Screen Saver, Asks:
> 
> Greetings,
> 
>     My father was looking at a '71 Cutlass today, but there's no title
> to the car.
<SNIP>
> We're from Massachusetts where, to the best of my
> knowledge, they stopped doing title searches a few years back.

Quite true; for at least 15 years or so, one could walk into the RMV
and register a 10+ y.o. car w/o a title.  Now, whether or not there *is*
a title, they have you apply to get a new one w/your name on it.  BUt
I don't believe they do a title search before they issue you one.

> He really wants the Cutlass, but it's no good in MA because they're trying
> to get all the vintage iron off the road.

Huh???  Since when?  The Commonwealth of Massachusetts has been accused of
many things, but attempts to get 'vintage iron' off the road is not one
of them.  If anything, compared to other states, I believe it's one of the
most lenient around.  NO emnissions 15 y.o or older, antique plates
*eliminate* inspections entirely AFAIK...  and nothing coming up in the
State House to change it.  Newer cars will have to pay more for inspections
& tighter emissions next year, but not the 'oldies'.

Sorry for the bandwidth on this, it's just that stories like this surface
from time to time on the Wild, Wild Internet, where some particular state's
legistlature is secretly trying to pass laws to take all vintage cars off
the road for nefarious purposes - usually the story is that they can get
"free" pollution credits from the Feds for the old cars, which they can sell
at a profit to big business. (NH is the latest one I heard about).

NJ came up a few years ago as a state trying to pull this off; and according
to posts in antique auto newsgroups & such, they all but accused the state
of forcing the issue through in the dead of night under guard of the
Cigarette Smoking Man & his goons :)    ...and guess what happened?  Nothing!
No new laws were passed. Everyone I know in NJ with an antique still has
it (or them), no new impositions on their ownership or drivability...

As one might surmise, I feel rather strongly about Applied Conspiracy Theory
as it relates to our hobby :)


Tim Churchill  tchurchill@draper.com  OCA #30327  Framingham, MA
- ----------------------------------------------------------------
'67 Oldsmobile Cutlass Supreme Convertible, a.k.a. 'Big Red'
'89 Cadillac Fleetwood, new a.k.a 'Old Gold'
'98 VW Passat GLS Wagon, a.k.a. 'der Kinderwagen'

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 07:54:54 -0400
From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <TJACQUILLARD@InfoAve.Net>
Subject: Re: steering box questions

Rebel1 wrote:
> 
> I have a question... is there any reason the "guts" from a quick ratio
> gear can't be swapped into a conventional gear (one without the stops)?
> I've never torn one of these apart, but it can't be any worse than
> rebuilding a trans.  Anybody got a thought on this - or better yet the
> reference manuals to see if what I'm proposing is possible?  Let me know!
> Todd Daenzer
> '69 rag top - could always use help in the handling department...
> 
I asked this same question about a month ago and never received any
responses. I would still like the info.
T.J.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 07:55:38 -0400
From: "Frederick Nissen" <FSNissen@worldnet.att.net>
Subject: 1969 98

Rik,

The car you have is a Ninety-Eight Holiday Coupe model number 8457.
Production was 27,041,  weight (dry, with no options) was 4,359 pounds.  The
standard engine was a 365 hp high compression 455 with the desirable "C"
heads.  This is a premium fuel only engine and requires leaded gas (get some
of the GM lead substitute if it hasn't been reworked to accommodate the
unleaded gas).  Standard transmission was the TH 400.  Standard axle ratio
was the 2.56 with the 2.93 available as an option. All Ninety-Eights were
built in Lansing in '69.  E mail privately if you have any other questions.

Regards,
Fred
1969 98 Conv.
+ others
- -----Original Message-----
From: oldsmobile-digest <oldsmobile-digest-owner@chebucto.ns.ca>
To: oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile-digest@chebucto.ns.ca>
Date: Tuesday, April 13, 1999 4:33 AM
Subject: oldsmobile-digest V1 #1901


>
>oldsmobile-digest       Tuesday, April 13 1999       Volume 01 : Number
1901
>
>
>
>Re: has anyone put 442 springs in a regular cutlass?
>Re: replacing vinyl top on 72 Cutlass
>Re: 77 Pace car id
>Re: 72 olds cutlass 4door
>Re: Brake Shoe Problems:69 Cutlass
>VIN vumber help
>Re: "Back off man, I'm a scientist!" was: is 425 a good motor?
>Re: Electrical Help Needed!!!
>Rear axle install
>heads
>Re: coolant for engine break in?
>Straight coolant vs. Mix (was Re: coolant for engine break in?)
>Re: "Back off man, I'm a scientist!" was: is 425 a good motor?
>Need Help Running Numbers
>Re: 350 big block vs 350 small block?
>Re: 350 big block vs 350 small block?
>Re: Rear axle install
>Re: Rear axle install
>Re: Rear axle install
>Steering gearbox
>RE: 72 Cutlass - stuck door problem
>Re: those 1LE 12" disk brakes..
>Re: [Re: is 425 a good motor?]
>Re: Front End Question
>Re: Rear axle install
>Re: 77 Pace car id
>Re: Steering gearbox
>Black 84 delta 88 - rare? was:Re: clear coat?
>Re: 350 big block vs 350 small block?
>Steering boxes
>Air Conditioning.(quite long)
>Big Block Info!!
>Re: Air Conditioning.(quite long)
>Re: steering box questions
>Re: (Non Olds)Alcohol Problem - Was: Re: "Back off man, I'm a scientist!"
>Re: throttle linkage
>test message
>Re: has anyone put 442 springs in a regular cutlass?
>Re: 77 Pace car id
>Re: Steering boxes-fixed post
>Re: steering box questions
>Re: heads
>Re: VIN vumber help
>Title search
>69 98 455ROCKET?
>Re: coolant for engine break in?
>Re: Success! (with the 403 of course, and a couple of questions)
>LOL350 man gets educated425style
>Changed E-mail addresses (non-Olds)
>Re: Title search
>Need Other GM Mailing List (non-Olds)
>Re: Steering gearbox
>n.o.s. quadrajet
>
>----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 18:44:55 -0400
>From: THOMAS JACQUILLARD <TJACQUILLARD@InfoAve.Net>
>Subject: Re: has anyone put 442 springs in a regular cutlass?
>
>Stefan Gadecki wrote:
>>
>>   Has anyone put a set of 442 springs on a regular cutlass (1970)?  I'm
>> sure somebody has.  The reason that I'm asking is that I'm thinking of
>> doing this, and am wondering how they will affect the ride (front
>> especially).  I'm expecting a stiffer ride/ better handling.  Will
>> there be a problem with 442 springs on the front since I have a lighter
>> engine (350 vs 455)?  Are the 442 springs any taller (rear)?  I want to
>> increase the rear hight by about 1-2 inches over what I currently have
>> (weak sagging original springs).
>I put Vista Cruiser springs in the back to get extra clearance for my
>wheels and tires. It definately raised it 2 inches. On the front I
>cannot tell you for sure, but I would think that there is a difference
>between 350 and 455 springs. If you are running a 350 it might be a
>little high. My car is a '68, but I don't think there would be much
>difference.
>T.J.
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Sun, 11 Apr 1999 18:24:30 -0400
>From: Todd <todd@wvadventures.net>
>Subject: Re: replacing vinyl top on 72 Cutlass
>
>At 04:48 PM 4/12/99 -0400, you wrote:
>>I called today and received estimates on replacing the vinyl top on my 72
>>Cutlass Supreme and was shocked.  The cheapest I was quoted was $525! I
>>expected around $150ish.  I am repairing the roof and preppinf it myself.
>>Still they said it was $525 to install the top, upwards of $800 to prep
the
>>roof themselves. Is that the going rate everywhere else? How hard is it to
>>install the top myself? I can get a new vinyl top for $60.
>>
>>Jason Labay  Akron, Ohio
>>
>>
>
>wow its 200 even over here in parkersburg west virginia also i know cause i
>ask about my 72 cutlass supreme
>Todd@wvadventures.net
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 19:19:37 EDT
>From: Jon442@aol.com
>Subject: Re: 77 Pace car id
>
>In a message dated 4/12/99 4:07:19 PM Central Daylight Time,
gregp@rbnet.com
>writes:
>
><< I have a september `95 issue of the now-defunct GM collector's guide
> magazine.  In it there's an article on the `77 pace car and it says many
> of the original pace cars were de-striped and repainted.  >>
>
>That is true. I had one for a demo at the time. They were exceptionally
hard
>to sell. The younger buyers were turned off by the size of the car and
>old-folks image. The older buyers wanted no part of the Goodyear GT tires
or
>the appearance. In the end, GM paid the dealers to paint the cars solid
>silver. However, they did not pay us to paint the wheels, so we ended up
with
>solid silver 88s with red wheels and blacked-out trim. Still not the best
>merchandise on the market. I will say that I really enjoyed driving mine.
It
>had lots of room, ran respectably and handled well for a big car.
>
>Jon
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 19:39:31 -0400 (EDT)
>From: mputz@interhop.net (Mike Putz)
>Subject: Re: 72 olds cutlass 4door
>
>Was there a Tic Tac in it?
>
>>To everyone on the list: I was in a local junkyard this Saturday and ran
>upon a 1972 Olds Cutlass 4dr hardtop. The car was all there good chrome ,
>the interior was black
>
>Mike Putz
>72 Supreme
>72 S
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 19:53:53 -0400
>From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
>Subject: Re: Brake Shoe Problems:69 Cutlass
>
>> the other thing I was thinking about to this is that the original post
>> stated that the top of the shoes were worn but not the bottom. Wouldn't
>> this suggest that the adjuster was not working?
>> T.J.
>>
>> Possibly, or it was not adjusted properly.  The problem is that the
radius
>of
>> the linings and the radius of the drum are not always the same.  This is
>> especially true if the drum has been turned a number of times.  Good
brake
>shops
>> used to re-arc the shoes to match the drum, but this is almost never done
>> anymore.
>>
>> Joe Padavano
>> padavano.joe@orbital.com
>>
>> 66 442
>> 68 W-30
>> 69 H/O
>> 69 442
>> 70 W-30
>
>The adjuster definitely wasn't working because I found the actuator rod and
>the small spring that fits between the drum and the adjuster bracket, loose
>in the bottom of the drum.
>The adjuster screw and star gear are in excellent shape and move freely
>though. The cylinder itself is seized in the extended position. I can't
even
>move the stems with a hammer.
>A new cylinder is needed I guess. I don't know which happened first though;
>the adjuster falling apart, or the cylinder freezing up. Is there a cause
>and effect relationship, or could it just be co-incidence?
>==============================================
>Mick Gillespie, Melbourne, FL
>69 Cutlass Conv.
>80 Toronado Brougham
>mgillespie@sprynet.com
>http://home.sprynet.com/~mgillespie/oldspage.htm
>==============================================
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 19:52:32 -0400
>From: dgerow@student.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
>Subject: VIN vumber help
>
>Hello,
>
>I'm looking for the VIN number of my '69 442.  I'm away at college and I
>don't have the car with me to look at the tags.  I do have the
>buildsheet with the "344879E" on it.  Is that the entirety of the VIN
>number, or is there more to it?  I want to make sure I'm not missing
>something.  If there are more numbers, like a sequence number or
>something, where would it be located on the VIN?
>
>You can see a scan of the VIN at:
>http://www.stonehill.edu/~dgerow/442/69build.jpg
>
>Thanks alot,
>
>Dan Gerow
>
>'69 442
>'72 Grand Prix
>
>
>- --
>- ------------------------------------
>Daniel R. Gerow
>dgerow@stonehill.edu
>http://www.stonehill.edu/wshl
>http://www.stonehill.edu/~dgerow
>- ------------------------------------
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 19:58:52 -0400
>From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
>Subject: Re: "Back off man, I'm a scientist!" was: is 425 a good motor?
>
>> On a similar note, Karl may have discovered that he has an alcohol
>problem.
>> When he is in the shower, the alcohol in his beer becomes diluted.
>> Are there any known remedies for this?
>>
>> SOM
>>
>> &KA  <---- membership for the association for putting things on top of
>other
>
>Are you using it for shampoo or soap? In either case, you can put it into a
>plastic bottle with a pump dispenser.
>I prefer to use the commercial bodily cleaning products however, and drink
>my beer.
>==============================================
>Mick Gillespie, Melbourne, FL
>69 Cutlass Conv.
>80 Toronado Brougham
>mgillespie@sprynet.com
>http://home.sprynet.com/~mgillespie/oldspage.htm
>==============================================
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 19:08:21 -0500
>From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
>Subject: Re: Electrical Help Needed!!!
>
>think you got that orientation backwards the internal variety is _ _ and
the
>external type is
>I I this ascii art stuff is hokey....KK
>- ----- Original Message -----
>From: Andrew C. Green <acg_o@hotmail.com>
>To: <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Sent: Monday, April 12, 1999 9:53 AM
>Subject: Re: Electrical Help Needed!!!
>
>
>> > I got my complete electrical setup hooked-up. I bought an external
>> > voltage regulated alternator. It puts out 63 amps. This is a 72 442
>> > so it has the external voltage regulator.
>>
>> IIRC, the side connector on an alternator with internal regulator has
>> its two-wire socket set up with the ports side-by-side, like this:
>> [ ][ ]. That of an alternator with external regulator has them
>> stacked:
>>
>> [ ]
>> [ ]
>>
>> My '72 LeMans 350 had an internally-regulated alternator, though your
>> 442 may be different.
>>
>> > The problem was that the battery was making a
>> > bubbling water type of noise.
>>
>> Ouch. You're boiling (overcharging) it. How's your regulator?
>>
>> > I have a Mallory distributor with a resistor on the firewall. The
>> > resistor was hot after 1 minute.
>>
>> I think I would be interested in what _voltage_ you're operating at
>> right now.
>>
>> >My questions are:
>> >
>> >1. What caused the battery to be making that noise?
>>
>> Overcharging.
>>
>> >2. Why did the resistor get hot after only 1 minute?
>>
>> Over-voltage?
>>
>> >3. Should the alternator get warm after 1 minute?
>>
>> I wouldn't say so.
>>
>> > I didn't want the battery to explode so I didn't check
>> > how much current was going to the battery with the multimeter.
>>
>> *gack*  That could make your _multimeter_ explode, actually. You most
>> likely would need an external shunt to measure amperage on the
>> charging circuit with a multimeter. Check the instruction manual of
>> your multimeter for how to do that particular test. Also be sure to
>> not disconnect the battery while the engine is running.
>>
>> I would suggest installing an automotive ammeter to monitor the
>> charging circuit instead; they're pretty cheap, and if you don't want
>> to hang one on the dash, you could at least temporarily install it
>> under the hood. With the engine running, check to see what your
>> charging rate is and what your system voltage is. Something sounds
>> like it's out of whack, and the first thing I would suspect is the
>> voltage regulator.
>>
>> -- Andy
>>
>> _______________________________________________________________
>> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 18:12:21 -0600
>From: "Travis Adams" <olds442@mcn.net>
>Subject: Rear axle install
>
>OK.  Starting to put the chassis back together after having the frame
>powdercoated and I can't get the rear axles back in.  It's like the
bearings
>are brand new and the clearances are tight.  Trick is the rearend is all
the
>same stuff I took out.  Didn't replace a thing except the pinion seal.
What
>gives and how do I get the axles in place?  I am excited as hell to get
this
>car back on the road and this delay is killing me!  Thanks in advance.
>
>Travis Adams
>65 442 Sports Coupe
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 20:29:30 -0400
>From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
>Subject: heads
>
>TO all you 330 guys out there...
>
>What's the difference between A4 and A5 heads?  My 330 out of a plain 67
>Cutlass has A4 heads, the 330 I just got from a 67 Cutlass Supreme has
>A5 heads.  I just had a valve job on the A4 heads a couple of months
>before I spun a main bearing...I'd kinda like to use them on the new
>motor I just got that currently has A5 heads on it.  What would the
>ramifications of this be?
>
>TIA
>
>Art
>67 Plain Cutlass
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 19:28:55 -0500
>From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
>Subject: Re: coolant for engine break in?
>
>well lets think about the boiling thing first if the water comes into
>contact with the cylinder or combustion area or exhaust valve seat area no
>matter how much pressure you put on it but just for the sake of this thread
>lets say you put 15 psi on it although it wont reach that temp until it
>increases in temp it will and does vaporize creating a dead space that is
no
>longer cooling, then about the Ethylene Glycol being only good for two
years
>well it says permanent on the bottle and as for the Dex-cool being better
>because the maker says so well we should all be driving hyundais and using
>splitfire plugs with dex-cool coolant and penzoil in the crankcase, so I'll
>take that at face value
>but if it really does help extend pump life by all means but if you use
>plain water you may as well buy the pump early and then youll have it when
>the seal goes out if you want to debate it further go ahead but thats it
for
>me as mine is just an opinion and I dont care if anyone believes it or not
>but it is wholy based in fact and long experience...
>
>P.S. you are not the only person to say that I should use mixed coolant not
>straight the reason is usually cost as coolant is more expensive than water
>but I did have one fellow say that straight anti-freeze will freeze if
there
>is no water in it ( never made any sense to me) again I am not saying that
>everyone should do it but I dont get rust, it never freezes, and I never
>overheat, and my million mile waterpump is still going strong, it will
>probably go out now because I said that.....LOL...KK
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 19:35:08 -0500
>From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
>Subject: Straight coolant vs. Mix (was Re: coolant for engine break in?)
>
>again the coolant tester says it is good to about 70 below with straight
but
>as I said it has never frozen and if you want to try it go ahead, when I
was
>in antarctica all the vehicles there had straight anti-freeze in them they
>never froze but they had to have oil heaters so they would crank on 10
>weight amazing I was using straight Green before going there if you can
find
>a colder climate to test it in go ahead...KK
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 19:40:19 -0500
>From: Kerry Kroger <kerryk@cwix.com>
>Subject: Re: "Back off man, I'm a scientist!" was: is 425 a good motor?
>
>Well Karl you could try holding the beer higher while showering and using a
>drinking tube to prevent
>dilution of the alchohol content of ones beer....
>
>on a similar note I have this problem that after consuming many malted
>alcoholic beverages that my beer becomes unusually pale and tastless and
the
>opposite wall appears covered with flourescent lights some of my friends
say
>they have the same problem it usually occurs at about 2 am any
thoughts...KK
>>
>> On a similar note, Karl may have discovered that he has an alcohol
>problem.
>> When he is in the shower, the alcohol in his beer becomes diluted.
>> Are there any known remedies for this?
>>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 20:39:10 -0400
>From: Howie <qcquad@cuny.campuscwix.net>
>Subject: Need Help Running Numbers
>
>I need help in cross referencing the numbers on my 455.
>I thinks its a 1969 model. I found 396021F on the front behind the water
>
>pump.
>And a 9478772 on the oil fill tube. The cylinder heads are stamped with
>a C.
>Any help with this is appreciated.
>Thank You;
>Howie.
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 20:41:13 EDT
>From: Four42much@aol.com
>Subject: Re: 350 big block vs 350 small block?
>
>In a message dated 4/12/99 5:15:40 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
hankins5@hit.net
>writes:
>
><< I believe there were also short and long stroke versions of the 425.
>  >>
>Only 1 425 bore and stroke wise that I know of....the early 65 and 66 I
>believe had a different angle than the 67 and the lifter sizes are
different
>
>Hot Rod Harry
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 20:44:25 EDT
>From: CUTLASS442@aol.com
>Subject: Re: 350 big block vs 350 small block?
>
>In a message dated 4/12/99 1:39:44 PM !!!First Boot!!!, jadcock@vt.edu
writes:
>
><<
> Can anyone verify or nullify the fact that Buick had two different 350
> motors...one was a big block and one was a small block.  Very similar to
> Oldsmobile's 403/400 pair (similar sizes, but different blocks).  I
believe
> that Buick had two separate 350 motors, but I'm not sure (obviously).  Can
> anyone verify/nullify this?
>  >>
>
>I dont have a book to look in but Desktop Dyno has 2 different 350 engines
to
>build off of. One has a Bore and stroke of 3.80 x 3.85. The other is 4.057
x
>3.38. Don't know if they exist but I wouldn't think there would be an
>imaginary engine on the program......could be wrong though.
>
>Richard
>1967 "Oldsmobuick" Cutlass
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 20:46:17 EDT
>From: Four42much@aol.com
>Subject: Re: Rear axle install
>
>There has been lots of discussion on this and I for one am not getting into
>it again...all I can say is I hope you checked out what you should do in
the
>shop manual before you took the pinion nut off.....ok everyone its your
turn
>, have fun....Hot Rod Harry
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 21:01:00 -0400
>From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
>Subject: Re: Rear axle install
>
>> shop manual before you took the pinion nut off.....ok everyone its your
>turn
>> , have fun....Hot Rod Harry
>
>
>Here we go ..........pinion depth, crush sleeve, preload..... la dee dah
>Harry, you wouldn't be alluding to this would ya? ;-)
>Even if his pinion depth is way off, unless it's so far off that the
carrier
>isn't properly seated, the axles should still go in........right?
>
>Randy
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 21:24:39 -0400
>From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
>Subject: Re: Rear axle install
>
>> OK.  Starting to put the chassis back together after having the frame
>> powdercoated and I can't get the rear axles back in.  It's like the
>bearings
>> are brand new and the clearances are tight.  Trick is the rearend is all
>the
>> same stuff I took out.  Didn't replace a thing except the pinion seal.
>What
>> gives and how do I get the axles in place?  I am excited as hell to get
>this
>> car back on the road and this delay is killing me!  Thanks in advance.
>
>It shouldn't be too difficult to get them back in. You need to wiggle the
>axle until you feel the splines engage and then push the axle in until the
>axle bearing gets tight in the bearing surface. It's supposed to be a light
>press fit, so use a rubber mallet or plastic hammer and tap it in until it
>bottoms out. The only thing that should stop it from going in, is not
having
>the axle splines engaged or lined up properly.
>Good luck.
>==============================================
>Mick Gillespie, Melbourne, FL
>69 Cutlass Conv.
>80 Toronado Brougham
>mgillespie@sprynet.com
>http://home.sprynet.com/~mgillespie/oldspage.htm
>==============================================
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 21:27:21 -0400
>From: "phil giannotta" <henkey@mich.com>
>Subject: Steering gearbox
>
>Could use some help on this one.  Got a leaky steering box on my 70
supreme.
>I learned on the list yesterday that a box from a mid 70s camaro would
>convert my car to fast ratio steering. I did more research on it today at
my
>friendly auto parts store and found there were two boxes available for  mid
>70s camaro , one a fast ratio box and the other the same box that belongs
on
>my car. How do I tell the difference between the two at the junk yard if I
>decide to go this route?   Also the guy at the parts store said I might
>develop a serious case of over steer . Should I be concerned?    Thanks in
>advance
>
>
> Phil Giannotta
>1970 Olds cutlass
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 21:32:20 -0400
>From: "chris costantino" <chrisc@tampabay.rr.com>
>Subject: RE: 72 Cutlass - stuck door problem
>
>I just went through this with my non-olds sports car (shall remain nameless
>for fear of spam). Look to the area where all the control rods come
>together. What you are experiencing (I think) is that the actual mechanism
>that is grabbing the striker is not being moved far enough. The door lock
is
>not preventing the door to open. Its more like you are only lifting the
>inside handle half way. Follow the motion of the control rod into the
>mechanism and use a screwdriver to push the mech the rest of the way. This
>should pop the door - it worked for me. Use a good spray lube that might
>help also.
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca
>> [mailto:oldsmobile-owner@chebucto.ns.ca]On Behalf Of Andrew C. Green
>> Sent: Monday, April 12, 1999 12:08 PM
>> To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>> Subject: Re: 72 Cutlass - stuck door problem
>>
>>
>> > I need some advice on opening a stuck driver's door on my 72
>> > Cutlass. The problem seems to be with the lock. I can turn the key
>> > and hear it click into the locked position, but it seems to unlock
>> > only partially. I have pulled the door panel off so that I have
>> > access to the back of the latch, but I can't get the door open.
>>
>> You know that routine you go through when you're trying to lift the
>> inside knob to unlock the door for someone, and they push/lift the
>> outside release handle too soon, and you can't pull the knob up? I
>> think that's your problem; the latch release is binding because either
>> the inside or outside door handle is partway engaged. I would check
>> that the outside door handle button is all the way out (released), the
>> inside door release lever is all the way retracted, then jiggle the
>> lock plunger and see if it will unlock the door.
>>
>> If you have the inside panel off, find the rods leading to the outside
>> button and the inside handle and make sure they're intact, not hung up
>> on anything, etc. Use some spray Liquid Wrench or similar on the latch
>> inside the door and see if that will work it loose, too. I think the
>> latch lever that the plunger connects to is a kind of teeter-totter
>> lever on the top of the latch assembly; I know that when using a
>> Slim-jim to open an older car when locked out, I have more luck when
>> pushing down on the internal latch, not up, to unlock it. Follow the
>> actuator rod from the lock plunger or from the key cylinder and see
>> where they lead, and see what's gotten stuck. I think you're going to
>> end up moving one of the rods inside the door by hand to back it out
>> to its normal position, and then you'll find that the door will now
>> unlock and open.
>>
>> -- Andy
>>
>>
>> _______________________________________________________________
>> Get Free Email and Do More On The Web. Visit http://www.msn.com
>>
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 20:31:30 -0500
>From: "Mike Bloomer" <mbloomer@mindspring.com>
>Subject: Re: those 1LE 12" disk brakes..
>
>>>By the way, the 1LE rotors also need redrilling, the factory studs are
>12mm and after the studs are removed the holes need to be opened up
>somewhat to fit the 7/16" studs before they can be pressed in. This
>latter operation I might be confident enough to do myself as the
>existing holes for the 12mm studs are in the right place and will act
>as pilot holes for the bigger drill-bit, but I for one wouldn't want
>to try to redrill the B-body rotor to the 4.75" bolt circle, seems to
>me this is a fairly precise operation as the wheels need to be centred
>on the rotor when mounted or else wheel balance problems and vibration
>will be the result.
>
>BTW, is a drill the correct tool for this?  My machine shop knowledge
>is limited, but I thought the proper way to do a press-fit was to use
>a reamer and ream the hole to one thousandth of an inch undersize.
>Drill bits tend to make rather sloppy holes, both in size and
>circularity, from what I know.
>
>- -John Carri<<
>
>John,
>
>The correct way to drill rotors is with a drill press, so that everything
>is straight and perpendicular.  A steady hand and a regular drill will
>suffice though.  It's not the lug nuts that are supposed to hold the
>wheel centered.  The rims are supposed to fit snugly over the hub
>and be centered up by that.  As to the diameter of the hole for the
>wheel studs, if you look at the wheel studs where they mount through
>the disc, they are knurled (not the correct term....brain fart, you get the
>idea) which is was provides your press fit.  You want to measure the
>diameter of the shank without these raised ribs and drill your holes that
>size.  With a proper set of drill bits and a drill press, there is no
reason
>for sloppy holes or out of round.  With a hand held drill this can happen
>unless you have a steady hand.
>
>Mike Bloomer
>mbloomer@mindspring.com
>ICQ# 19113713
>http://members.tripod.com/CutlassFreak/
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 21:35:31 -0400
>From: "R. Grant" <kgrant442@home.com>
>Subject: Re: [Re: is 425 a good motor?]
>
>Plus you would have the best crank that Olds made most of the parts are
>about the same heads headers etc..
>
>Kevin Grant
>
>- -----Original Message-----
>From: Randy Hermsen <76Cutlass@netscape.net>
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Date: April 11, 1999 11:34 PM
>Subject: Re: [Re: is 425 a good motor?]
>
>
>"R. Grant" <kgrant442@home.com> wrote:
>Well IMHO I feel that the best engine built by Olds was the 425 It and the
>330 are the only Olds engine to have the Forged Crank. If you want take the
>crank out of the 425 and drop it in a 455 but I would stay with the 425.
>
>Kevin Grant
>80 Cutlass Supreme
>
>- -----Original Message-----
>From: Randy Hermsen <76Cutlass@netscape.net>
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Date: April 11, 1999 10:36 PM
>Subject: is 425 a good motor?
>
>thanks for reply kevin so rebuilding the 425 would give same torque HP. as
>455.???
>               randy
>                76 cutlass
>Anyone on the list know about a 425 low compression out of a dynamic 88
1965
>he said his gramps bought it to tow a trailer down to mexico something
about
>the bad gas down there.Anyway a couple of months and the car is available
>due
>to disrepair I noticed the coolent comin out when I was talkin to him.
>                T.I.A.
>                   Randy
>                       76 cutlass
>       p,s.Im thinkin 455 for my car is this motor 425good for high pro.
>
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at
>http://webmail.netscape.com.
>
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at
>http://webmail.netscape.com.
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 21:40:35 -0400
>From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
>Subject: Re: Front End Question
>
>>There was also a
>> piece of rubber on there that looked like it helped
>> the fan draw air through the radiator only instead of
>> from the bottom of the shroud. Anyone know where you
>> can find this piece?
>>
>Year One has the Air deflectors for $19.00 (Last Year's catalog). They are
>listed for 70-72 Cutlass, but I believe that they will fit a 69 by cutting
a
>couple of inches off the ends. This was posted a year or so ago but I don't
>remember who discovered this fact.
>I'm sure Fusick's, The Paddock, Supercars etc. probably carry this part
too.
>==============================================
>Mick Gillespie, Melbourne, FL
>69 Cutlass Conv.
>80 Toronado Brougham
>mgillespie@sprynet.com
>http://home.sprynet.com/~mgillespie/oldspage.htm
>==============================================
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 21:35:54 EDT
>From: Four42much@aol.com
>Subject: Re: Rear axle install
>
>In a message dated 4/12/99 9:08:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net writes:
>
><< Even if his pinion depth is way off, unless it's so far off that the
>carrier
> isn't properly seated, the axles should still go in........right?
>  >>
>la de da de da de daaa.....I cant here youuuuu...Hot Rod Harry  LOL
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 21:59:25 -0400
>From: Paul Hartlieb <plh@nbn.net>
>Subject: Re: 77 Pace car id
>
>Corey Putnam wrote:
>>
>>   Does anyone know how to i.d. a 77 Delta 88 Pace Car?It has no stickers
>> but that doesn`t mean anything. Is there something in the VIN or options
>> on the car that might tell me? Thanks.
>>
>> Corey Putnam
>
>Corey,
>
>This may be more information than you want, but here it is:
>
>Pace Car option was only available on model N37, Delta 88 Royale Coupe
>
>Paint code is 13-13 w/o vinyl top, 13-BB with vinyl top.  Top was black
>only and ran from the rear edge of the side 1/4 windows forward.
>
>Trim code 45 (bench seat) or 65 (split bench).
>
>Option code was W44.  I doubt that'll show anywhere except on a build
>sheet.  W44 included:
>
>Special Paint Scheme - silver and black with red accent striping
>
>Flat black window/door frames, headlamp housings, grilles and door pull
>inserts.  (The bulletin from Olds doesn't say so, but the taillight
>housings are black to, I think.)
>
>L80 403 Rocket V8 engine
>
>N72 Red Sport Wheels
>
>QZP Special GR70-15 Silhouette Raised White Letter Tires
>
>N34 Sport Steering Wheel (the 4 spoke Cutlass-type one)
>
>D35 Sports Styled Mirrors
>
>Price of package was $914.
>
>Option W43 was the Pace Car Decal package @ $40 included 2 door decals
>and 2 sail panel Indy track (winded wheel) decals.
>
>Paul
>- --
>Paul Hartlieb
>Myerstown, PA
>mailto:plh@nbn.net
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 21:56:59 -0400
>From: "RANDY A GEISEL" <RANDYGEISEL@prodigy.net>
>Subject: Re: Steering gearbox
>
>> How do I tell the difference between the two at the junk yard if I
>> decide to go this route?   Also the guy at the parts store said I might
>> develop a serious case of over steer . Should I be concerned?    Thanks
in
>> advance
>
>Fast ratio box is something like 2 1/2 (2 5/8) revolutions of the steering
>wheel lock to lock. The other is more......don't know how many. I had a '66
>Dart......you could turn the wheel forever and still not make the turn ;-)
>
>Tell the parts guy you're a better driver than he gives you credit for.
>You'll get used to it.
>
>Randy
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 19:01:30 -0700
>From: "Andrew Conkey" <andrewc@novell.uidaho.edu>
>Subject: Black 84 delta 88 - rare? was:Re: clear coat?
>
>Brian,
>
>I have *never* seen a black delta 88 either. This one is a coupe,
>with NO vinyl roof. It has no options except AC and tilt wheel. It
>had the factory AM radio in it when I bought it! I personally think it
>looks *better* w/out the vinyl roof. It looks 'cleaner' than many I see
>with the opera lamps and vinyl roofs. It is factory black though with
>the crushed velour burgundy interior (no leather here!). I can post
>the paint code if that would help verify it.
>
>Now you have me curious as to just how 'rare' this combination
>might be....
>
>Andrew
>84 delta 88 coupe, black
>
>Date sent:      Sun, 11 Apr 1999 23:53:02 -0500
>To:             oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>From:           Brian Ammons <b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu>
>Subject:        Re: clear coat paint on 84 delta 88 was:Re: clear coat?
>Send reply to:  oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca
>
>> At 08:12 PM 4/11/99 -0700, you wrote:
>> >Lou, this is *original* paint.
>>
>> <SNIP>
>>
>> > Also, its black, and every flippin' defect shows up -
>> >*magnified*!!!
>>
>> I was not aware that Oldsmobile B-bodies were available in black - I've
>> never seen one.
>>
>> There appearantly is a country song (which I've never heard, but a friend
>> of mine sings whenever he rides in my car) that goes something like
>> (spelled semi-phoneticly)
>>
>> "That's not a reel Cadillac
>> It's jest a Delta 88 paaiinted black
>> With fake lether seats frum Warrens..."
>> -------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ---
>> Brian Ammons             ICQ - 3585737
>> MIS Major - UT Austin  b_ammons@mail.utexas.edu
>> 2903 Breeze Terrace    http://ccwf.cc.utexas.edu/~ammons/
>> Austin, TX 78722          Home: (512) 236-8088 (Austin)
>>                                               (713) 776-2110 (Houston)
>> 1984 Oldsmobile          Pager: (512) 483-8056
>> Delta 88                         (713) 318-5938
>> 4-door
>> "The Party Barge"
>> -------------------------------------------------------------------------
- ---
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 22:06:41 EDT
>From: Biscayne2d@aol.com
>Subject: Re: 350 big block vs 350 small block?
>
>Would I be all that wrong in taking a guess that maybe it was the gas and
>desiel blocks and cranks that have a diffrence between them??
>Paul 79
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 22:19:26 -0400
>From: "Erik Gertsen" <ainode@frontiernet.net>
>Subject: Steering boxes
>
>Can / is there a faster steering box that is interchangeable with the one
on
>my delta to make the car turn faster? i hate the second lane thing i used
to
>get if i took my eyes off the road for a second.
>
>Erik
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 21:26:11 -0500 (CDT)
>From: Dr-Olds@webtv.net (Dr. Olds - K. Wood)
>Subject: Air Conditioning.(quite long)
>
>I have asked a whole lot of A/C questions in
>the past few months, and gotten a few responses- and I have decided to
>use the R12
>freon.  Everybody I talk to has a different opinion on what needs
>changing otherwise.
>The A/C shop I'm using thought the POA valve
>would be best changed to whatever the new
>equivalent it.  Year One was quick to point out
>that their expansion valve is not R134 compatible.  I have heard from a
>few people that the condenser may be a problem.  (Side note, I bought
>one from Year One and it came
>with probably about 3 times as many fins as
>the original '72 unit had- that may have helped?).  Anyway- everything
>will be new- hoses, compressor, - everything except the
>evaporator core, which has been pressure
>tested and is fine.  I've been told point blank
>by everybody that if I convert - the air won't be
>as cold... And I've been told that a new fill of
>R12 should cause me no problems for at least
>5 to 7 years without needing a recharge-
>That sound good enough to me.  After paying
>as much as you have to for all new equipment-
>and having not had air ever- (even though the
>car was originally so equipped)- I want to
>freeze my *ss off!
>
>I anybody out there can think of any good reason why I should
>reconsider, please let me
>know... Happy to hear any opinions.
>(I am currently on Digest, so my response will
>be slow to list postings).
>
>You guys have been a great help, and I can't
>imagine going back to not having this resource.
>
>Kevin D. Wood
>Hartford, WI
>'72 Cutlass Supreme 455 TH400 Posi 3:55.
>Soon to be an A/C car again.
>
>Dr-Olds@webtv.net
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 22:26:18 EDT
>From: Oldsfire@aol.com
>Subject: Big Block Info!!
>
>OK guys, here's the straight info on 425 c.i. engines.  425's were built in
>the years 65 thru 67.  All 65's and all 66's except the toro blocks have a
45
>degree cam bank angle.  Which are the hardest to get cams for.  The 66 toro
>and all 67's have a 39 degree cam bank angle, the same as 455's.  All of
the
>high compression engines had forged cranks, the low compression engines had
>cast nodular iron cranks.  The weakest part of the 425's and the 455's was
>the oiling system, which with a little work and a few aftermarket parts,
can
>be cured.  There were some of the 455's with forged cranks, too, but they
are
>getting rare.  The toro engines used a .921 lifter bore versus the rest
using
>an .842 bore. After 67 the toro engine went to the .842 with the 455.  Same
>as all 455's.  The 425 and the 455 share the same bore but different
strokes.
> You can use a 425 crank with 455 rods and pistons, to make a 425 out of a
>455 block.  The 67 and later "c" heads are some of the better ones.  next
>would be the 66 "B" heads. The 425 has a 3.975 inch stroke, thge 455 has a
>4.250 inch stroke.  The 400 big block rods had 2 center to center
>lengths...6.998 and 6.735.  the 425  used a 6.998 rod and the 455 uses a
>6.735 rod.  The 65-67 400 had a 4.0 bore and a 3.975 stroke,  68-69 had a
>3.870 bore and 4.250 stroke.  The 425 65-67 has a 4.125 bore X 3.975
>stroke....the 455 has 4.125 bore X 4.250 stroke. All big blocks had dished
>flat top pistons different amounts for different compressions.    I hope
all
>this helps someone!!  John!!   Oldsfire@aol.com
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 22:42:58 -0400
>From: "Mick Gillespie" <mgillespie@sprynet.com>
>Subject: Re: Air Conditioning.(quite long)
>
>> I have asked a whole lot of A/C questions in
>> the past few months, and gotten a few responses- and I have decided to
>> use the R12
>> freon.
>
>I went through the "convert or not convert" syndrome about a year ago with
>my 80 Toro. It had basically been only driven to car shows and kept in a
>climate controlled garage for the three years before I bought it as my
daily
>driver.
>The A/C was warm and kept getting warmer. I finally decided to get the
>system pressure tested and it was ok, so I got a freon recharge. It cost me
>around $70. I have had ice cold air ever since, and since I live in Florida
>it is basically a necessity. If the charge lasts three years I figure I'm
>ahead of the game.
>==============================================
>Mick Gillespie, Melbourne, FL
>69 Cutlass Conv.
>80 Toronado Brougham
>mgillespie@sprynet.com
>http://home.sprynet.com/~mgillespie/oldspage.htm
>==============================================
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 22:43:12 -0400
>From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
>Subject: Re: steering box questions
>
>I have a question... is there any reason the "guts" from a quick ratio
>gear can't be swapped into a conventional gear (one without the stops)?
>I've never torn one of these apart, but it can't be any worse than
>rebuilding a trans.  Anybody got a thought on this - or better yet the
>reference manuals to see if what I'm proposing is possible?  Let me know!
>Todd Daenzer
>'69 rag top - could always use help in the handling department...
>
>John Carri wrote:
>
>> >From: Stefan Gadecki <sgadecki@yahoo.com>
>> >
>> >I am in need of a new steering box or rebuilding my existing one (if
>> >possible) for 1970 Cutlass 'S'.  Has anyone gotten the faster ratio
>> >box from Year One?  How do you like the difference?  Is it worth the
>> >$280?
>> >Are there rebuild kits available for the existing box, and if there
>> >are, where and how much.  Any input is good input.
>>
>> ----------------------------------------------------
>>
>> >From: Mrmagic442@aol.com
>> >
>> >Simply go to a junkyard and but a used box out of a mid 70's Trans Am
>> >or Camaro for a 2 5/8 turn lock to lock steering box. they bolt right
>> >in with the Olds pitman arm.
>> ------------------------------
>>
>> I am looking for fast-ratio steering info too, I got some info from
>> Global West, they warn that using the Trans Am/ Camaro box can cause
>> some problems. First problem is that these cars used a longer pitman
>> arm and idler arm, so the steering box has built in stops to limit its
>> lock-to-lock turns; using this box in your Cutlass will give you a
>> faster steering ratio, but will also make your turning radius much
>> bigger - bye bye U-turns. Second problem is that some of the F-body
>> steering boxes used metric hose fittings which won't work with your
>> stock power steering pump and hoses.
>>
>> Global West sells extremely expensive (around $495!) blueprinted
>> fast-ratio boxes. Lee Steering sells similarly priced blueprinted
>> boxes. Best price I found so far was www.powersteering.com, at around
>> $200. I also got a great recommendation for this vendor from Bryceman
>> himself (442.com).
>>
>> Anyone with info on this, I am very interested to hear it. Do the $200
>> rebuilds compare with the $500 blueprinted boxes in steering feel?
>> Five hundred bucks is a lot of money, but good steering feel is one of
>> the things that separates the expensive good-handling cars from the
>> more affordable mushmobiles most of us drive.
>>
>> Sorry for the late response, I was away sick for a week, thought this
>> thread worth a reply.
>>
>> -John Carri
>> '72 Supreme   (needing fast-ratio steering)
>> '73 RoadRunner
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 22:47:14 -0400
>From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
>Subject: Re: (Non Olds)Alcohol Problem - Was: Re: "Back off man, I'm a
scientist!"
>
>hmmm - I've heard of beer batter - but never beer bathing....  Perhaps
>it's just time for some beer!
>Todd Daenzer
>'69 rag top - 310hp tied to a glide :-(
>
>Stefan Gadecki wrote:
>
>>  *LoL* Maybe 'he' could try using one of those little umbrellas that
>> come with tropical drinks.  Or, one of those long twistie straws, that
>> way the beer is a few feet away, but still accessible. :^)
>>  Ok, enough humor, time to get back to the Olds.
>>
>> Stefan
>> 1970 Cutlass 'S' Holiday Coupe
>> 70Cutlass@Beer.com
>>
>> <snip>
>> > On a similar note, Karl may have discovered that he has an alcohol
>> > problem.
>> > When he is in the shower, the alcohol in his beer becomes diluted.
>> > Are there any known remedies for this?
>> >
>> > SOM
>> <snip>
>> _________________________________________________________
>> Do You Yahoo!?
>> Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 22:39:04 EDT
>From: GT5726@aol.com
>Subject: Re: throttle linkage
>
>In a message dated 4/11/99 9:10:08 PM Central Daylight Time,
>cutlass@one.camd.lsu.edu writes:
>
><<
> My project is going pretty good. I got a boost from moving her from a car
> port to my buddies garage.
>
> Problem: I have a 350 with a street dominator (Holley) intake and on top
> of that I have an Edelbrock q jet carb. I want to install a stock air
> cleaner. Well, this leads to numerous problems that I don't want to
> discuss in detail. I would rather find someone that DID this and can take
> me by the hand! It looks like I will ned to fabricate stuff or at least
> modify off the shelf adapters. So if yoiu have been there, done that
> please contact me and lead me out of my despair...
>  >>
>
>
>I have had a similar setup on my Cutlass...for a while. I was able to use
an
>aftermarket airfilter base and filter, then I simply placed my factory
chrome
>442 aircleaner lid over the top and secured it with a wing nut. It looked
>totally stock and kept its usefulness as well.
>
>On the linkage issue, I simply drilled a new hole on the throttle lever in
>the appropriate spot and used my original "rod" from the switchpitch
"switch"
>to the lever.
>
>Collyn Eastham
>A hole slew of 65's
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 19:54:08 -0700 (PDT)
>From: carl g <cngtwo@yahoo.com>
>Subject: test message
>
>test message
>
>_________________________________________________________
>Do You Yahoo!?
>Get your free @yahoo.com address at http://mail.yahoo.com
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 22:41:04 EDT
>From: KASOLDS@aol.com
>Subject: Re: has anyone put 442 springs in a regular cutlass?
>
>In a message dated 4/12/99 1:18:31 PM Central Daylight Time,
>sgadecki@yahoo.com writes:
>
><< Has anyone put a set of 442 springs on a regular cutlass (1970)?  I'm
> sure somebody has.  The reason that I'm asking is that I'm thinking of
> doing this, and am wondering how they will affect the ride (front
> especially).  I'm expecting a stiffer ride/ better handling.  Will
> there be a problem with 442 springs on the front since I have a lighter
> engine (350 vs 455)?  Are the 442 springs any taller (rear)?  I want to
> increase the rear hight by about 1-2 inches over what I currently have
> (weak sagging original springs).   >>
>
>I own I 1970 442.  Unfortunatley it does not have the original engine.  It
>has a 350 in it.  As far as I know it has the original springs.  The
original
>springs are probaly sagging a little so that it does sit level.  New 442
>springs may make the front of the car sit a little high.  Hope this helps.
>Good luck.
>
>Keith
>(70 442)
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 20:15:47 -0700
>From: Joe Varley <varleyequip@access1.net>
>Subject: Re: 77 Pace car id
>
>I have been an Olds collector since 1973, and was on Olds salesman from '77
>to '82 in Cleveland. The dealer had 4 pace cars, and I dealer traded for a
>couple more. All were 88 Royale coupes with a 403 Olds V8. NONE were 350
>Chevy- mobiles of lawsuit fame. All had aluminum hoods and Firethorn Red
>velour interiors. As you mentioned, most '77 pace cars had the decals
>removed. I did 3 myself, but don't remember any painted over to sell them.
>Bill Lawrence, an OCA member in Northern Illinois has a nice pace car and
>is very knowledgable about them.Hope this helped.
>
>Joe Varley
>1950 "88" club coupe, black, 43,000 miles
>1970 Rallye 350, W31,4 speed, 53,000 miles
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 23:22:54 -0400
>From: "Erik Gertsen" <ainode@frontiernet.net>
>Subject: Re: Steering boxes-fixed post
>
>is there an faster ratio steering box interchangeable with the one on my
>1973 delta 88 royale? i hate that time whn youre driving and you  look away
>for a bit and pow, youre in the wrong lane.
>
>Erik
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 22:36:45 -0500
>From: "Glen Hankins" <hankins5@hit.net>
>Subject: Re: steering box questions
>
>- -----Original Message-----
>From: Rebel1 <rebel1@raex.com>
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Date: Monday, April 12, 1999 9:42 pm
>Subject: Re: steering box questions
>
>
>>I have a question... is there any reason the "guts" from a quick ratio
>>gear can't be swapped into a conventional gear (one without the stops)?
>>I've never torn one of these apart, but it can't be any worse than
>>rebuilding a trans.  Anybody got a thought on this - or better yet the
>>reference manuals to see if what I'm proposing is possible?  Let me know!
>>Todd Daenzer
>>'69 rag top - could always use help in the handling department...
>>
>
>
>I think it would be possible to change the stop from an A-body steering box
>to the F-body quick-ratio unit.  I put a box from a mid 70's Formula on my
>72 Cutlass using the Cutlass pitman arm, so I know that much works.  The
>stop is the aluminum cap on the front end of the steering box.  I don't
have
>an assembly diagram in front of me, but I am reasonably sure that you could
>do this.  I intend to try it with my G-body when I can scratch together
some
>extra jack.
>
>GBH
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 22:42:14 -0500
>From: "Glen Hankins" <hankins5@hit.net>
>Subject: Re: heads
>
>- -----Original Message-----
>From: Arthur Hoffman <oldsctls67@home.com>
>To: oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca <oldsmobile@chebucto.ns.ca>
>Date: Monday, April 12, 1999 7:27 pm
>Subject: heads
>
>
>>TO all you 330 guys out there...
>>
>>What's the difference between A4 and A5 heads?  My 330 out of a plain 67
>>Cutlass has A4 heads, the 330 I just got from a 67 Cutlass Supreme has
>>A5 heads.  I just had a valve job on the A4 heads a couple of months
>>before I spun a main bearing...I'd kinda like to use them on the new
>>motor I just got that currently has A5 heads on it.  What would the
>>ramifications of this be?
>>
>>TIA
>>
>>Art
>>67 Plain Cutlass
>>
>
>Art-
>
>I have a set of #4 heads on my 403.  The combustion chambers are just at 61
>cc.  They are off of a 67 330 and are stamped W38 1838 on the front.  They
>run well.    You might check the chamber volume on the #5 heads.  That is
>most likely to be the difference, except maybe valve size.
>
>Glen
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 23:41:44 -0400
>From: dgerow@student.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
>Subject: Re: VIN vumber help
>
>Thanks for the help with the VIN.  We figured it out.
>
>Thanks again,
>
>Dan Gerow
>
>- --
>- ------------------------------------
>Daniel R. Gerow
>dgerow@stonehill.edu
>http://www.stonehill.edu/wshl
>http://www.stonehill.edu/~dgerow
>- ------------------------------------
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 23:52:23 -0400
>From: dgerow@student.stonehill.edu (Daniel R. Gerow)
>Subject: Title search
>
>Greetings,
>
>    My father was looking at a '71 Cutlass today, but there's no title
>to the car.  I guess he (the present owner) bought it that way, never
>registered the car, or did anything for that matter, and then decided to
>sell it years later.  We're from Massachusetts where, to the best of my
>knowledge, they stopped doing title searches a few years back.  He
>really wants the Cutlass, but it's no good in MA because they're trying
>to get all the vintage iron off the road.  Are there any reputable
>places that any of you know of that will do a title search?  Or any
>other leads that you might have?  I know we could register it in New
>Hampshire, which does not require a title, but that's a bit too much
>trouble and kind of shady.  Thanks in advance for any information you
>might have.
>
>Take care,
>
>Dan Gerow
>
>'69 442
>'72 Grand Prix
>
>- --
>- ------------------------------------
>Daniel R. Gerow
>dgerow@stonehill.edu
>http://www.stonehill.edu/wshl
>http://www.stonehill.edu/~dgerow
>- ------------------------------------
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 23:12:10 -0500
>From: riksab@postoffice.swbell.net
>Subject: 69 98 455ROCKET?
>
>HELLO first and foremost let me say that this is the best referanceguide
>to olds ever
>i've been reading this list for 2 days now and i'm impressed.
>this is my first go at this so bare w/ me.
>I have a 69 olds 98 2dr holiday hard top very good condition!!!
>I've had the car for 4 months and have acouple of questions.
>1.my air cleaner lid says 455rocket howdo i determin if that's true?
>2.what body style should this car be refered as.
>3.what heads does this engine have?
>4.are there any specific websites devoted to the history of this fine
>auto.
>thankyou as i eagerly wait for any info.
>69 98 from kansas city missouri
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 00:13:19 EDT
>From: DYeager535@aol.com
>Subject: Re: coolant for engine break in?
>
>In a message dated 4/12/99 5:13:40 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
kerryk@CWIX.com
>writes:
>
><< well lets think about the boiling thing first if the water comes into
> contact with the cylinder or combustion area or exhaust valve seat area no
> matter how much pressure you put on it but just for the sake of this
thread
> lets say you put 15 psi on it although it wont reach that temp until it
> increases in temp it will and does vaporize creating a dead space that is
no
> longer cooling, then about the Ethylene Glycol being only good for two
years
> well it says permanent on the bottle and as for the Dex-cool being better
> because the maker says so well we should all be driving hyundais and using
> splitfire plugs with dex-cool coolant and penzoil in the crankcase, so
I'll
> take that at face value
> but if it really does help extend pump life by all means but if you use
> plain water you may as well buy the pump early and then youll have it when
> the seal goes out if you want to debate it further go ahead but thats it
for
> me as mine is just an opinion and I dont care if anyone believes it or not
> but it is wholy based in fact and long experience...
>  >>
>
> Well, if your going to drop it there, this can be my last too...green
>antifreeze has silica in it. Last time I checked silica was closely related
>to sand. If sand helps prolong the life of seals around moing parts, I will
>be happy to dump sand in the crankcase. As to the Dex-Cool, it was designed
>BY GM, for use in the Saturn if I remember correctly. And looking at two
>different brands of coolant, BOTH say to flush/replace annually, to keep
>anti- corrosion capability.
> As to running straight water, don't forget if you have aluminum and
>cast iron parts that the coolant comes in contact with, water is perfect
for
>corrosion, even worse than all cast parts. Coolant helps avoid this,
although
>de-ionized water is now sold at auto parts stores to cut down on this
>problem, used in conjunction with anti-freeze.
> I have to admit, it says right on the bottle, up to a max of 70%
>antifreeze, will bring boiling temp up to 276 degrees, with 15psi system. I
>never said it would freeze..in the arctic, no reason to ever worry about
>overheating, why not use straight antifreeze? It's never going to get warm
>enough to matter what the antifreeze/water % is. Without knowing what, say,
>cylinder wall temp is, I can't say that the coolant won't "vaporize" at the
>point of contact with metal. Once it "vaporizes" this way, isn't it boiling
>though?
> I wasn't trying to get pissy with anyone here, just trying to get the
>straight scoop. I am more than pessimistic about manufacturer claims, but
>Dex-Cool is no lie. You take sand out of something thats a  lubricant, the
>part will last longer, guaranteed. I am no gullible 10 year old who rushes
>out to buy the next snake-oil every time I hear a new improved claim. Since
>this thread started out about straight water for break in, I'm gonna end my
>piece on that topic. I say go ahead with straight water for breakin, but
>replace it as soon as all the quirks have been worked out of the
>system..before the water has the chance to corrode.
>
> Dorian
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 00:28:26 EDT
>From: DRankin893@aol.com
>Subject: Re: Success! (with the 403 of course, and a couple of questions)
>
>Hi Dorian,
>
>I cammed my 403 specifically for it's stock compression and my '81 Calais'
>2.29 rear.  Forget high r.p.m., I installed a Crane motor home cam to make
>gobs and gobs of low end torque.  It is impossible to drive that car out of
>the hole without an egg on the gas pedal.  Below 10m.p.h., any excessive
>pressure of the right toe leads to the incineration of the old 215/70R14
>Eagle ST's.   The engine does start to wheeze around 4000 r.p.m., but by
then
>with 2.29's you're already doing about 790 m.p.h. ;-)  The best part of the
>deal was my around town gas mileage didn't change from the original 260,
and
>highway mileage dropped only by about 2mpg to 23-25 from 25-27.
>Unfortunately, this car is now anchored in the driveway by Ohio E-check
>(emissions).
>
>Don
>'81 Cutlass Calais / 403
>'78 Cutlass Calais / 305
>'65 4-4-2
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: 12 Apr 99 21:55:56 PDT
>From: Randy Hermsen <76Cutlass@netscape.net>
>Subject: LOL350 man gets educated425style
>
>WOW ask a ? get a ton of answers sorta guessed Id stir up the pot.Im
reminded
>how much you guys know.Special thanks to Paul Brillhart might call for a
>flexplate.Sounds like if I had the 425 rebuilt she would out run the 350
>rebuilt?Did feel kind of ignorant when some of you talked theory lol. The
last
>laugh will be when I pick up the whole car with the 425 for a couple
hundred
>bucks lololo drop it In my 76 anyone need a 65 dynamic 88 for parts?
>                     randy
>                       76 cutlass
>                         true duals W-Z on the way
>                           edelbrock intake
>                             1 1/4 sway frt. 1 inch in rear
>                               swivel buckets
>
>____________________________________________________________________
>Get your own FREE, personal Netscape WebMail account today at
http://webmail.netscape.com.
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 21:32:02 -0800
>From: "Mike Sealey" <ninetyeight@angelfire.com>
>Subject: Changed E-mail addresses (non-Olds)
>
>Hi, friends.  Please note my change of e-mail address;
>formerly "rocket98for69@hotmail.com" but Hotmail made
>some unwelcome format changes that no longer allow me
>to access it from my (free) ISP.  (The new address is
>less of a mouthful anyway...)
>
>Mike Sealey
>'69 Ninety Eight Holiday Sedan
>
>
>Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail. http://www.angelfire.com
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 01:32:39 EDT
>From: DYeager535@aol.com
>Subject: Re: Title search
>
>In a message dated 4/12/99 8:52:41 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
>dgerow@coal.stonehill.edu writes:
>
><< Greetings,
>
>     My father was looking at a '71 Cutlass today, but there's no title
> to the car.  I guess he (the present owner) bought it that way, never
> registered the car, or did anything for that matter, and then decided to
> sell it years later.  We're from Massachusetts where, to the best of my
> knowledge, they stopped doing title searches a few years back.  He
> really wants the Cutlass, but it's no good in MA because they're trying
> to get all the vintage iron off the road.  Are there any reputable
> places that any of you know of that will do a title search?  Or any
> other leads that you might have?  I know we could register it in New
> Hampshire, which does not require a title, but that's a bit too much
> trouble and kind of shady.  Thanks in advance for any information you
> might have.
>
> Take care,
>
> Dan Gerow
>  >>
>
> Can't you just apply for a "lost title"? Here in WA state you can.
>Unfortunately, if someone along the way unlawfully acquired the car, and
you
>buy it with no title, and can't trace it back to the thief, your just out
the
>money I guess. I can't believe they are trying that hard to get old cars
off
>the road...thats crazy. I once told the State Patrol that I thought someone
>was trying to sell a stolen car just so they would run the VIN. Told them
to
>call me if it was, as I knew where it was located...no call, figured it was
>clear. They have to have some record of a title, or else it could be stolen
>by anyone, and there would be no way to trace it to the rightful owner, nor
>prove it was stolen! At least in theory anyway.
>
>
>Dorian
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Mon, 12 Apr 1999 21:35:23 -0800
>From: "Mike Sealey" <ninetyeight@angelfire.com>
>Subject: Need Other GM Mailing List (non-Olds)
>
>Can anyone here direct me to a Cadillac mailing list?
>
>Olds Content: The good qualities of my '69 Ninety Eight
>prepared me well to appreciate the good qualities of
>the '66 Fleetwood that now accompanies it.
>
>Mike Sealey
>
>
>Angelfire for your free web-based e-mail. http://www.angelfire.com
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 01:55:54 EDT
>From: Socalolds@aol.com
>Subject: Re: Steering gearbox
>
>Phil,
>You can use a gearbox from a 78-79 trans-am or firebird. They will bolt
>straight up and visually you will not be able to tell the difference.
However
>you must use the pitman arm from your cutlass.
>Now for the bad news. You will lose  some of your steering radius. In other
>words it will take several more feet to turn your car in a complete circle.
>But you will dramatically improve your steering response and handeling.
For
>the price of $40 at your local yard and a few hours installing itit can't
be
>beat.   I put them on all my cars. They are a dime a dozen in the yards.
>Dennis
>
>------------------------------
>
>Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 04:32:57 EDT
>From: DESADVHEMI@aol.com
>Subject: n.o.s. quadrajet
>
>forsale: n.o.s. quadrajet 4bbl 67 oldsmobile#7027156 in the box $200.00
>desadvhemi@aol.com  thank you  JOE
>
>------------------------------
>
>End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1901
>*********************************
>

------------------------------

End of oldsmobile-digest V1 #1902
*********************************

